CZ7 m mm Mill BV4 A — ^- - , „ — - - ■ THE w COMPANION TO ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL CONTAINING A DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS OBJECTS WORTHY ATTENTION, AND ITS HISTORY: TO WHICH IS ADDED, A BRIEF HISTORICAL SE1ETCK OF THE ANCIENT CHURCH, CAEEEULLY COMPILED TSOM THE B ITINGS OF DUGDALE, STQWE, MALCOLM, AND BY E. M. CUMMIXGS. FIFTEEXTH EBITIOX. TO WHICH IS ADDED AN APPENDIX. aINING A DESCRIPTION OF THE NEW MONUMENTS; AND OTHER IMPORTANT MATTER. L X D O X : PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR, AND MAY BE HAD OF HIM AT THE CATHEDRAL ; WHOM ALSO MAY BE HAD A FRENCH EDITION. 1851. . Transept . . ±failey,AVX).p. t>7 5 CONTENTS. Monuments — {continued.) Names. Situation. Sculptor. Collingwood, Lord S. Transept . Westmacott . 27 Cooke, Captain Nave Westmacott . 16 Cornwallis, Marquis Nave Rossi 14 Crawfurd, General N. Transept . Bacon, Jun. 44 Duff, Captain Nave Bacon, Jun. 16 Duncan, Lord N. Transept . Westmacott 10 Dundas, General » N. Transept . Bacon, Jun, 43 Faulknor, Capt S. Transept . Rossi 28 Gibbs, General S. Transept . Westmacott . 30 Gillespie, General S. Transept . Chantrey . . 30 Gore, General N. Transept . Chantrey . . 10 Hardinge, General S. Transept . Manning . . 30 Hay, General Sir A N. Transept . Hopper .... 42 Heathfield, Lord S. Transept . Rossi 28 Heber, Bishop Ch. S. Aisle . Chantrey . . 24 Hoghton, General N. W. Amb. Chantrey . . 40 Hoste, Sir Wm S. Transept . Campbell . . 30 Howard, J S. Aisle .... Bacon 20 Howe, Earl S. Transept • Flaxman.. 26 Johnson, Samuel N. Aisle.... Bacon 12 Jones, Sir Wm Nave Bacon, Jun. 34 Langwerth, General N. Transept . Manning . . 43 Le Marchant, General .... N. E. Amb. . Smith 12 Mackenzie, General N. Transept . Manning . . 43 Mackinnon, General N. Transept . Bacon, Jun. 44 Middleton, Bishop S. W. Aisle . Louth 39 Miller, Capt S. Transept . Flaxman . . 29 Moore, Sir John S. Transept . Bacon, Jun. 31 Mosse, Capt N. Transept . Rossi 11 Myers, Sir Wm N. W. Amb. Kendrick . . 40 Nelson, Lord Nave Flaxman . . 12 Pakenham, Gen S. Transept . Westmacott 30 Picton, Sir T N. Transept . Gahagan . . 41 Ponsonby, Sir Wm N. Transept. Bailey .... 10 Reynolds, Sir J Nave Flaxman .. 39 Riou, Capt N. Transept . Rossi 11 Rodney, Lord N. Transept . Rossi 41 Ross, General S. E. Amb . . KendricJc . . 24 Skerrett, General N. Transept . Chantrey . . 10 St. Vincent, Earl of N. Transept . Bailey 42 Westcott, Capt N. Transept . Banks 43 Wren. Sir C, epitaph 16 Monuments recently erected — Appendix. Jones, General , S. E. Amb. . . Behenes .... 66 Malcolm, Sir J. P Bailey, R. A.67 GBOTVTt T>LAV. 1 A. North Portico or Entrance. B. Prebenartries' Vestry. C. Choir. D. Aitar.— E. Dean's Vestry. EXPLANATION. F. South Portico. G. Staircase to the Gallerv, H. Marble Font. I. Ecclesiastical Court. K. Geometrical Stairca?? L. Bell Tower. M. Morning Chapel. N. Lord Mayor's Vestry. THE COMPANION ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. This noble edifice stands pre-eminently first amongst the works of architecture of our later days in the British empire, and is acknowledged to be the most magnificent Protestant church in the world. The first particular that generally attracts the eye of the spectator is the stupendous magnitude of the dome, which cannot fail of exciting awe and admiration. The dome is based on the intersection of the nave and transept, and is supported in majestic simplicity by eight massive piers, each of them forty feet square ; all the other piers being only twenty-eight. The ground plan of the church is a Latin cross, having lateral projections at the West end of the nave, with the view of giving width and importance to the elevation of the West front, according to the annexed engraving. THE MONUMENTS. Of the many objects that claim especial notice, those by which the attention of visitors generally is longest de- tained, are the monumental sculptures erected in honour of various distinguished individuals. I shall endeavour in this work to describe them in such a manner as shall be most convenient for inspection ; beginning at the left-hand side of the entrance door, and so passing round till the visitor arrives at the point whence he started. The first in order is a monument executed by Sir F. Chantrey, from a design of the late Mr. Tollemache, representing Fame consoling Britannia for the loss of her heroes. It also bears the following inscription : — 10 GORE AND SKERRETT — DUNCAN. Erected at the public expense to the memory of Major-Generals Arthur Gore and John Byne Skerrett, who fell gloriously while leading the troops to the assault of the fortress of Bergen-op-Zoom, on the night of the 8th and 9th of March, 1814. Contiguous to this is that of Sir William Ponsonby, designed by R. Theed, R. A., and executed since his death by E. H. Bailey, A.R.A. The death of Ponsonby was occasioned by the weakness of his horse, which broke down under him in a charge, and left him disabled under the lances of the French cuirassiers. Accordingly, the animal is represented falling languidly to the earth ; whilst his master, a figure without drapery, in the foreground, is kneeling in a constrained posture, in the act of receiving a wreath of laurel, at the moment of death, from the hands of Victory. Erected at the Public expense to the Memory of Major-general the Hon. Sir William Ponsonby, who fell gloriously in the Battle of Waterloo ; on the 18th of June, 1815. On the right, opposite to the one I have just described, and against the great pier, is a statue, by Westmacott, of the celebrated Lord Duncan. The Admiral has his boat- cloak, or dreadnought, around him ; his hands clasping his sword, transversely before him. The pedestal represents, in alto-relievo, a seaman, with his wife and child, designed to commemorate the regard in which this illustrious officer was held by even the humblest of those who sailed under him, and who contributed to the glory of his achievements. Both the design and the execution are in the best taste. The inscription upon the monument is as follows : — Erected at the public expense to the memory of Adam Lord Viscount Duncan, as a testimony of his distinguished eminence in the naval service of his country ; and as a particular memorial of the glorious and important victory which he gained over the Dutch fleet on the 11th of October, 1797. He died on the 4th Aug. 1804. Under the window, the recess before you contains the monument, by Mr. C. Rossi, presenting an insulated base. MOSSE AND RIOU — BOWES. 11 charged with a sarcophagus, on the front of which Vic- tory and Fame are placing medallions of the deceased officers : — The services and death of two valiant and distinguished officers, James Robert Mossb, Captain of the Monarch, and Edward Riou, of the Amazon, who fell in the attack upon Copenhagen, conducted by Lord Nelson, 2nd of April, 1801, are commemorated by this monument, erected at the national expense. James Robert Mosse was born in 1746 ; he served as Lieutenant several years under Lord Howe, and was promoted to the rank of Post-Captain in 1790. To Edward Riou, who was born in 1762, an extraordinary occasion was presented, in the early part of his services, to signalize his intrepidity and presence of mind, which were combined with the most anxious solicitude for the lives of those under his command, and a magnanimous disregard of his own, when his ship, the Guardian, struck upon an island of ice, in December 1789, and afforded no prospect but that of immediate destruction to those on board. Lieut. Riou encouraged all who desired to take their chance of preserving themselves in the boat, to consult their own safety ; but, judging it contrary to his own duty to desert the vessel, he neither gave himself up to despair, nor relaxed his exertions ; whereby, after ten weeks of the most perilous navigation, he suc- ceeded in bringing his disabled ship into port ; received his high reward of fortitude and perseverance from Divine Providence, on whose protection he relied. Turning to the right in the ambulatory above, is a tabu- lar monument, by Sir Francis Chantrey, representing Major- General Bowes in the act of storming the forts of Salamanca. The steep breach of a shattered wall is crowded with the enemy, and covered with the slain ; the General leads his troops on to the charge with fixed bayo- nets ; the bearer of the French standard has fallen at his feet, when, in the very moment of victory, he receives a mortal wound, and falls into the arms of one of his soldiers. Erected at the public expense, to the memory of Major-General Foord Bowes, who fell gloriously on the 27th of June, 1812, while leading the troops to the assault of the fortress of Salamanca. The opposite panel, on the left over the door, contains the monument of Major-General Le Marchant, designed 12 LE MARCHANT— DR. JOHNSON. by the late James Smith, and executed by Mr. C. Rossi ; on which the genius of Spain is depicted, placing trophies of victory on the warrior's tomb, and at the same time mourning his fall. Britannia, seated, is pointing out the monument to a military cadet, as a tribute raised by a grateful nation, to inspire her sons with emulation. Erected at the public expense to the memory of Major-General John Gaspard Le March ant, who fell gloriously in the battle of Salamanca, July the 22d, 1812. The statue of Dr. Johnson, by John Bacon, R.A.,*is placed near the iron gate, leading into the north aisle against the north-east pier. The philosopher is repre- sented with a scroll in his hands, in the attitude of pro- found thought. The design and execution are admirable, and convey as just an idea of the peculiar character of the great moralist and lexicographer, as it is possible to im- part through the medium of a statue. — The Latin inscrip- tion on the pedestal is by Dr. Parr : — a Samuele Johnson, Grammatico . et . critico Scriptorum . anglicorum . litterate . perito Poetse . luminibus . sententiarum et . ponderibus . verborum . adorirabili magistro . virtutis . gravissimo homini . optimo . et . singularis . exempli qui . vixit . ann . lxxv . mens . il . dieb. xml decessit . idib . decembr . ann . Christ . do . Iocc . lxxxiiiI sepult . in aed . sanct . Petr . Westmonasteriens xnl . kal . januar . ann . Christ . do. Iocc . lxxxv amici . et . sodales . litterarii pecunia . conlata H. M. Faciund. Curaver. On one side of the monument : — Faciebat Johannes Bacon, Sculptor. Ann. Christ, m.dcclxxxxv. Proceeding a few yards further, between the dome and the choir gates, is the monument of Lord Nelson, by Flaxman. The figure of the Admiral, arrayed in the * Greeted in 1795, for 1100 guineas. t For a translation of the above inscription, see Appendix, page 66. ' ml ilj'M I 11 III III . LOUD SET-SON. 14 NELSON — CORNWALLIS. pelisse presented to him by the Sultan, leans upon an anchor, with a coil of rope at his feet : on the right of the pedestal stands Britannia, with two young seamen, whose reverential regard she is bespeaking to the hero as their great example. The British lion on the other side needs no explanation. The figures in relief on the pedestal are allegorical representations of the North Sea, the German Ocean, the Nile, and the Mediterranean, in which his triumphs were effected. On the cornice are the words 11 Copenhagen/' " Nile, " Trafalgar." Erected at the public expense to the memory of Vice-Admiral Horatio Viscount Nelson, K.B. to record his splendid and unparalleled achievements during a life spent in the service of his country, and terminated at the moment of victory by a glorious death ; in the memorable action off Cape Trafalgar, on 21st of October, 1805. Lord Nelson was born on the 29th of September, 1758. The Battle of the Nile was fought on the 1st of August, 1798. The Battle of Copenhagen on the 2nd of April, 1801. Immediately opposite to that of Nelson, is a monument to the Marquis Cornwallis, by Mr. C. Rossi, which con- sists of a pyramidal group, the statue of the Marquis on a circular pedestal, or truncated column, forming the apex. The statue is robed as a knight of the garter : the two principal figures at the base are personifications of the British empire in Europe and in Asia : the figures to the right represent the Begareth and Ganges, rivers in the East. Of these statues, that of the Marquis resembles life, and is so far good ; that of Britannia is rather mean and awkward ; and those of the other deities are strikingly ex- pressive. The following is the inscription : — To the memory of Charles Marquis Cornwallis, Governor General of Bengal, who died 5th of October, 1805, aged 66, at Ghazeepore, in the province of Benares, in his progress to assume the command of the army in the field. This monument is erected at the public expense, in testimony of his high and distinguished public character, his long and eminent public services, both as a soldier and a statesman, and the unwearied zeal with which his exertions were employed in the last moments of his life, to promote the interest and honor of his country. 1 jJU I '...-:•':■■ ..■'.::;.: 11 Hi MARQUIS CORNWALLIS. 16 COOKE — DUFF— WREN. In the panel above is an alto relievo, by Mr. Westmacott, representing Britannia mourning for Captain John Cooke, and consoled by one of her children presenting her with her trident, and another her helmet ; while, in the back ground, is the prow of a vessel, to indicate that the work is a naval monument : — Erected at the public expense to the memory of Captain John Cooke, who was killed Commanding the Bellerophon, in the battle of Trafalgar, in the 44th year of his age, and the 30th . of his services. Opposite to this is the monument of Captain Duff, by Mr. Bacon. The figures consist of Britannia decorating a sarcophagus, on which is placed a medallion of the de- ceased hero, with laurel ; and a British sailor bearing the naval flag, lamenting the loss of his commander. Erected at the public expense to the memory of Captain George Duff, who was killed 21st October, 1805, commanding the Mars, in the battle of Trafalgar in the 42nd year of his age, and the 29th of his service. The next object which claims particular attention is the beautiful Screen, with its gates of wrought iron, the entrance into the choir, from the nave. This is extremely elegant; the workmanship is by Monsieur Tijou.* Here also are eight very splendid Corinthian columns of blue veined marble, that support the magnificent organ and gallery, which are richly ornamented with carved work. On the side next the dome, in front of this gallery, on a plain marble slab (formerly in gold letters), is the follow- ing Latin inscription : — Subtus conditur hujus Ecclesiae et urbis Conditor Christophorus Wren, qui vixit annos ultra nonaginta, non sibi sed bono publico. Lector, si monumentum requiris, circumspice. Obiit 25 Feb. setatis 91 ; An. 1723. Of which the following is the English : Beneath lies Sir Christopher W^en, the builder of this church and city, who lived upwards of 90 years, not for himself, but for the public good. Reader, seekest thou his monument i Look around ! * For which he was paid 2 J. per foot superficial, in 1696 EAST FRONT OF THE ORGAN OP ST. PAUL'S. THE ORGAN. J 9 Above this is the noble Organ, which for quality of tone is esteemed one of the finest in England. It was built by that celebrated artist, Bernard Schmidt, better known in England by the name of Father Smith, in 1694. It cost 2000/. exclusive of the case.* Since its erection it has undergone two very important improvements : the first in 1801, by Messrs. Ohrman and Nutt; the second, in 1826, by that eminent and well known artist, Mr. Bishop, (whose name as an organ-builder is so justly appreciated,) and who has also the care of it. Several new stops were added to the instrument when it was last repaired, which have greatly contributed to the majestic depth and fulness of its tone. It now contains thirty-two stops, and among the new ones may be particularly mentioned, the magnificent pedal pipes, which are justly acknowledged to be the finest ever made in England, by this celebrated artist. It has 2123 pipes ; and although in this respect it is not quite so extensive as some others in the metropolis, yet from the pe- culiar construction of the building, the effects produced, when operated upon by the organist, is equal to those of an instrument containing double the number of stops. The late repairs by Mr. Bishop were executed under the imme- diate superintendence, and from the plan of that distin- guished professor, Mr. Cooper, assistant organist of the Cathedral. The stalls of the choir are enriched with festoons of flowers, &c. in the shape of scrolls, and are perhaps (if we must except the productions of the same master at Chats- worth, the seat of the Duke of Devonshire) the most splen- did carvings in the world ; the flowers seem to partake all the elastic lightness of nature : one might almost imagine, that, were a zephyr to blow, it would stir them, — that with the waning season they would fade. But they are, indeed, imperishable. Language fails in an attempt to describe their surpassing excellence. They have immortalized the artist by whom they were executed (Grinlin Gibbons), who was appointed Master Sculptor to George I. in 1712, and who died in 1721. The altar-piece is adorned with four noble fluted pilasters, painted and veined with gold, in imitation of lapis lazuli, and their capitals are double- gilt. In the intercolumniations below are nine marble panels. The table is covered with crimson velvet, and * According to contract; and contained only twenty-one whole stops, and six haifs or echoes. 20 THE CHOIR. above, in two series, are six windows. The floor of the choir and side aisles is all white ; the body and west-end of the Chnrch is paved alternately with black and white marble, save that part within the rails of the altar, which is of porphyry, polished and laid in several geometrical figures. On each side of the choir is a range of fifteen stalls, with the episcopal throne or chair of state on the south side, near the altar, surmounted by a mitre, which is seldom occupied but on occasions of great solemnity. The more usual stall for the Bishop of the diocese may be known by the carved pelican suckling its young, and the mitre upon it. Opposite is the Lord Mayor's stall, recog- nized by the city sword and mace; the Dean's stall is covered by a canopy under the organ gallery, and may be distinguished by festoons of fruit and flowers. The con- tiguous seats on each side of the gates are reserved for the canons residentiary; while the minor canons, lay vicars, and choristers have seats appropriated to them on either side of the choir. The reader's desk is in the middle of the choir, within a handsome brass railing, and is an ex- ceedingly fine specimen of the kind. It is entirely of brass, richly gilt, and consists of an eagle with expanded wings, supported by a pillar. The pulpit now stands towards the middle of the floor, near the reading desk, having been brought forward from the spot where it originally stood near the bishop's stall, for the greater convenience of the congregation. It was designed by the late Mr. Mylne. The carving, which is very elegant, was executed by "Wyatt. The choral service is performed here twice every day, — at a quarter before ten in the morning, and at a quarter past three in the afternoon ; on which occasions, of course, the body of the Church is open free to the public. Sermons are also preached by the dean and canons residentiary on Sundays and holidays, and every Wednes- day and Friday during Lent. Divine service is likewise performed in the morning chapel every week-day morn- ing, at eight o'clock. Returning from the choir to the entrance of the south aisle, on the right, is the statue of John Howard, by Bacon, R.A. It is a plain but expressive statue, representing the philanthropist in the Roman costume, trampling on VIEW CI THE CHOIK OF ST. PAl'L 5 JOHN KOWARD. 23 fetters, and bearing in his right hand a key, and in his left a roll, on which are inscribed the words, " Plan for the Improvement of Prisons and Hospitals." The front of the pedestal is filled with a design in basso-relievo, in which a prison scene is introduced, with a figure distributing food and raiment. The epitaph was written by Howard's rela- tion, the late Samuel Whitbread, and is engraved on the south side of the pedestal. JOHN HOWARD.* This extraordinary man had the fortune to be honoured whilst living in the manner which his virtues deserved ; He received the thanks of both houses of the British and Irish Parliaments for his eminent services rendered to his country, and to mankind. Our national prisons and hospitals, improved upon the suggestion of his wisdom, bear testimony to the solidity of his judgment, and to the estimation in which he was held. In every part of the civilized world, which he traversed to reduce the sum of human misery, from the throne to the dungeon, his name was mentioned with respect, gratitude, and admiration. His modesty alone defeated various efforts, which were made during his life, to erect this statue, which the public has now consecrated to his memory. He was born at Hackney, in the county of Middlesex, Sept. 2nd, 1726. The early part of his life he spent in retirement, residing principally upon his paternal estate, at Cardington, in Bedfordshire, for which county he served the office of sheriff, in the year 1773. He expired at Cherson, in Russian Tartary, on the 20th January 1790, a victim to the perilous and benevolent attempt toascertain the cause of, and find an efficacious remedy for, the plague. He trod an open and unfrequented path to immortality, in the ardent and unremitted exercise of Christian Charity. May this tribute to his fame excite an emulation of his truly glorious achievements ! * This was the first monument erected in the Cathedral, in the year 1795, and was opened to public inspection, a.d. 1796. 24 BISHOP HEBER. At the upper or east end of this aisle is one of the most splendid monuments in the Cathedral. It is a beautiful specimen of art from the chisel of Sir Francis Chantrey, erected to the memory of that truly eminent Christian, Bishop Heber, and is delineated in the annexed engraving. This eminent Christian prelate is represented in his canonical robes, kneeling on a cushion, in the devotional attitude of prayer, with nis right hand placed on his breast, and his left resting on a volume of the Holy Scriptures. On the pedestal, in alto relievo, he is represented in the same attitude confirming two natives, who are kneeling before him. To the Memory of Reginald Heber, D.D. Lord Bishop of Calcutta, This Monument was erected by those who loved and admired him. His character exhibited a rare union of fervent zeal with universal tolerance, of brilliant talent with sober judgment, And was especially distinguished by Christian humility which no applause could disturb, no success abate. He cheerfully resigned prospects of eminence at home, in order to become the chief missionary of Christianity in the East, and having in the short space of three years visited the greater part of India, and conciliated the affections and veneration of men of every class of religion, He was there summoned to receive the reward of his labours, in the xliii d year of his age, mdcccxxvi. rt Thou art gone to the grave, but we will not deplore thee Though sorrow and darkness encompass the tomb ; Thy Saviour has passed through the portal before thee, And the lamp of his love is thy guide through the gloom. Thou art gone to the grave, but we will not deplore thee, Whose God was thy Ransom, thy Guardian and Guide; He gave thee, he took thee, and he will restore thee, And death has no sting, for the Saviour has died." A few yards from this south aisle gate, on the left, is the door leading to the crypt or vaults, above which is a tabular monument, by Mr. J. Kendrick, to the memory of Major-general Ross. The sculpture represents Valour laying an American flag upon the departed soldier's tomb, over which Britannia is bending in tears; Fame BISHOP HBBSR. 26 Ross — CaoOOAN* — HOWE. also is descending with a laurel wreath to crown his bust. Erected at the public expense to the Memory of Major-general Robert Ross, Who having undertaken and executed an enterprise against the city of Washington, the capital of the United States of America, Which was crowned with complete success, Was shortly afterwards killed, while directing a successful attack upon a superior force, near the city of Baltimore, on the 12th day of September, 1S14. On the opposite panel, against the pier, is the monu- ment of Colonel Cadogan, by Sir F. Chantrey, which may be referred to as a model of monumental sculpture. When the colonel was disabled from persisting in the battle, he desired his men to convey him to an adjoining eminence from whence he could witness the issue of the contest. Here the artist has represented the dying officer, borne along by his men, with his face still turned towards the enemy. One standard of the Eagle and its bearer appears trodden under foot, while another is about to fly. These frequently imply the defeat and rout of the French ; while the soldiers who support their colonel, are waving their hats in the moment of the victory. Art is thus ingeniously made subservient to historical truths. The performance demands entire approbation. Erected at the public expense to the memory of Colonel the Hon. Hen. Cadogan* , who gloriously fell in the command of a brigade, in the memorable battle of Vittoria, 21st June 1813. When a complete victory was gained over the French army by the allied forces, under the Marquis of Wellington. Colonel Cadogan was son of Charles Sloane, Earl Cadogan, born 26th February, 17S0. [For a description of the monument of Gen. Jones, see Appendix, p. 68.1 Under the east window, on the left, is a magnificent monument, by Flaxman, raised to the honour of Earl Howe. His lordship's imposing statue is placed in front. leaning on a telescope, and guarded by a Hon couched, the symbol of British strength and security. Above, on a rostrated column, sits Britannia with her trident ; and to COLLING WOOD. 27 her right below, History appears in the act of recording in golden letters, the most prominent of his lordship's actions ; while Victory, bending forward over the shoulders of History, deposits a branch of palm in the lap of Britannia. Erected at the public expense to the memory of Admiral Earl Howe, in testimony of the general sense of his great and meritorious services. In the course of a long and distinguished life, and in particular for the benefit derived to his country, by the brilliant victory which he obtained over the French fleet, off Ushant, 1st June, 1794. He was born 19th March, 1726, and died 5th August, 1799, in his 74th year. Adjoining this, is a national monument to the celebrated Admiral Lord Collingwood, by Westmacott, which repre- sents the landing of his lordihip's remains in England, The hero appears laid out on the deck of a man-of-war, with his body shrouded, in colours won by him from the enemy, and with his hands clasping a sword upon his breast ; a figure of Fame kneels forward from the prow over the corpse ; and a personification of old Father Thames, attended by the genii of his confluent streams, is stretched in earnest contemplation of the goddess. On the gun- wale there is an alto-relievo illustration of the progress of navigation in three stages ; the first shows the genius of man forsaking his landmarks, and exploring the ocean, the stars for iris guides ; the second presents him directed in his course by the magnet ; and the third exhibits him forging the instruments of war. Erected at the public expense to the memory of Ctjthbert Lord Collingwood, ^Vho died in the command of the fleet in the Mediterranean, on board of the Ville-de-Paris, vii March, mdcccx, in the lxi year of his age. Wherever he served he was distinguished For conduct, skill, and courage, particularly in the actions with the French fleet, June 1st, mdccxciv, as Captain of the Barfleur, in the action with the Spanish fleet, xiv February, mdccxcvii, as Captain of the Excellent, but most conspicuously in the decisive victory off Cape Trafalgar, obtained over 2S HEATHFIELD — FAULKNOR. the combined fleets of France and Spain, to which he eminently contributed, as Vice Admiral of the Blue, commanding the larboard division, xxi October, mdcccv. Against the opposite pier is the statue of Lord Heath- field, by C. Rossi, R.A. It is modelled, larger than life, in the regimentals of a general officer, The pedestal is wrought in alto relievo, representing victory descending from a castellated rock to crown a warrior on the sea-shore with laurel. Erected at the public expense to the memory of General Geo. Aug. Elliot, Lord Heathfield, K.B., in testimony of the important services which he rendered to his country, by his brave and gallant defence of Gibraltar, of which he was Governor, against the combined attack of the French and Spanish forces, on the 13th of September, 1782. He died on the 6th July, 1790. Turning short to the right, against the same pier, is a monument in honour of Captain Faulknor, by C. Rossi. The design represents Neptune seated on a rock in the centre, and turning eagerly round to the right to catch in his arms a naked figure of the dying sailor, who is pour- trayed with a shield on one arm, and a broken sword in his right hand. On the left is victory about to crown him with a wreath of laurel. This monument was erected by the British Parliament, to commemorate the gallant conduct of Captain Robert Faulknor, who on the 5th of January, 1795, in the 32d year of his age, and in the moment of victory, was killed on board the Blanche frigate, while engaging La Pique, a French frigate of very superior force. The circumstances of determined bravery that distinguished this action, which lasted five hours, deserve to be recorded. Captain Faulknor having observed the great superiority of the enemy, and his own vessel having lost most of her masts and rigging, detected a particular moment when the bowsprit of La Pique came athwart the Blanche, with his own hands lashed it to the capstern, and thus converted the svhole stern of the MILLER — BURGES. 29 Blanche into one battery ; but, unfortunately, soon after this bold and daring manoeuvre he was shot through the heart. CAPTAIN MILLER. In the panel above is a tabular monument by Flaxman, whereon the figure-head of the Thesis is represented, in which vessel the Captain died off the coast of Acre. Vic- tory and Britannia unite in raising Captain Miller's me- dallion against a palm tree, on which are the words " St. Vincent/' " Nile." Round the head on the medallion is written — To Captain R. Willet Miller, This monument is raised by his companions in victory. Facing this is the monument of Richard Rundle Bur- ges, executed by Banks, R.A. It displays its subject in the act of receiving a sword from the hand* of Victory, who stands separated from him by a cannon. This statue cannot fail of commanding praise ; the attitude is fine, and the air brave. The pedestal projects boldly ; and is profusely enriched with allegorical representations of defeat and captivity. The inscription is as follows : — Sacred to the memory of Richard Rundle Burges, Esquire, Commander of His Majesty's ship Ardent, who fell in the 43rd year of his age, while bravely supporting the honour of the British flag, In a daring and successful attempt to break the enemy's line near Camperdowne, on the 11th of October, 1797. His skill, coolness, and intrepidity, eminently contributed to a victory, equally advantageous and glorious to his country. That grateful country by the unanimous act of the legislature, enrols his name high in the list of those heroes who under the blessing of Providence have cherished and maintained her naval superiority, and her exalted rank among nations c 30 HARDINGE — PAKENHAM AND GIBBS — GILLESPIE — HOSTE. CAPTAIN HARDINGE. The panel above contains a tabular monument, by the late Mr. C. Manning, to Captain Hardinge. It represents an Indian warrior, bearing the victorious British standard, seated by the side of a sarcophagus, while fame recumbent on its base displays her wreath over the hero's name. NATIONAL. To Geo. N. Hardinge, Esq. Captain of the Fiorenza, 36 guns, 186 men, who attacked on three successive days, La Piedmontaise, 50 guns, 566 men, and fell near Ceylon, in the path of victory, 8th March, 1808, aged 28 years. Turning to the south door, on the east side, Generals Pakenham and Gibbs are represented in full uniforms, by Westmacott. The arm of one resting on the shoulder of the other. Erected at the public expense to the memory of Major General the Hon. Sir Edward Pakenham, K.B., and of Major General Samuel Gibbs, who fell gloriously on the 8th of January, 1815, while leading the troops to an attack of the enemy's works in front of New Orleans. GENERAL GILLESPIE. On the other side of the door is the statue of General Gillespie, by Sir F. Chantrey. Erected at the public expense to the memory of Major-General Robert Rollo Gillespie vrho fell gloriously on the 31st of October, 1814, while leading the troops to an assault on the fortress of Kalunga, in the kingdom of Nepaul. ! For a description of the monument oj Sir A. Cooper, see Appendix, p. 67.] SIR WM. HOSTE. On the right, against the great pier opposite, is a statue to Sir Wm. Hoste, by Mr. T. Campbell. The Baronet is represented in full naval uniform, in- vested in a cloak of one of his orders, leaning against the capstan of a ship with a truncheon in his hand. His arms surmount the inscription which in expressive brevity excels every other in the Cathedral. ,#-, 3IR BALI' 1-1 ABERCKOilBI HOSTE — MOORE — ABERCROMBY. ->- Cattaro — Lissa. Sir Wm. Hoste, Bart., k.c.b. k.m.t. Captain in the Royal Navy- Erected by his brother officers and the admirers of his services. The noble monument of General Moore immediately faces the above. It is by Bacon, Jun. It represents valour and victory lowering the General into a grave with entwined laurel, while the genius of Spain plants the standard of conquest over his grave. Sacred to the memory of Lieutenant-General Sir John Moore, K.B. who was born at Glasgow, 1761. He fought for his country In America, ia Corsica, in the West Indies, in Holland, Egypt, and Spain ; and on the 16th of January, 1809, was slain by a Cannon Ball at Corunna. Next in order is Sir Ralph Abercromby. It is from the chisel of Westmacott, and is perhaps the best perform- ance of that admired sculptor in the Cathedral. The subject of the group is a representation of the death of the General. His horse appears careering over the prostrate foe, while the rider, fainting from loss of blood, is caught in the arms of a Highland soldier. To betoken the victory he has gained, the dying figure of the enemy is seen vainly grasping at the standard which has been wrested from him. Indicating the scene of action, a sphynx, the emblem of Egypt, appears in relief on either side of the tomb. Upon the pedestal is the following inscription : — Erected at the public expense to the memory of Lieutenant-General Sir Ralph Abercromby, K.B. Commander-in-Chief of an expedition directed against the French in Egypt, who having surmounted with consummate ability and valour the obstacles opposed to his landing by local difficulties, and a powerful and well prepared enemy ; and having successfully established and maintained the successive positions necessary for conducting his further operations, resisted, with signal advantage, a desperate attack of chosen and veteran troops on 21st March, 1801, when he received in the engagement a mortal wound, but ABERCROMBY — BABINGTON. 33 remained in the field, guiding by his directions, and animating by his presence, the brave troops under his command, until they had achieved the brilliant and important victory obtained on that memorable day. The former actions of a life spent in the service of his country, and thus gloriously terminated, were distinguished by the same military skill, and by the same zeal for the public service, particularly during the campaigns in the Netherlands, in 1793 and 94 ; in the West Indies, in 1796 and 97 ; and in Holland, in 1799 ; in the last of which the distinguished gallantry and ability with which he effected his landing on the Dutch coast, established his positions in the face of a powerful enemy, and secured the command of the principal fort and arsenal of the Dutch republic, were acknowledged and honoured by the thanks of both Houses of Parliament. Sir Ralph Abercromby expired on board the Foudroyant the 28th of March, 1801, in his 66th year. Turning to the right, against the great pier, is an ele- gant statue to the memory of I>u Babington, recently erected by W. Behnes. It represents the Doctor standing in his professional robes. It is exceedingly chaste, and elegant in design and execution. William Babington, M.D. F.R.S. Fellow of the Royal College of Physicians, born May 21st, 1756, died April 29th, 1833. Eminently distinguished for science, beloved for the simplicity of his manners, and the benevolence of his heart, respected for his inflexible integrity, and his pure and unaffected piety. In all relations of his professional life he was sagacious, candid, diligent and humane, firm in purpose, gentle in execution ; justly confident in his own judgment, yet generally open to the opinion of others ; liberal and indulgent to his brethren, but ever mindful of his duty to the public. To record the admiration of so rare a union of intellectual excellence and moral worth, and to extend to future generations the salutary influence which his living example can no longer diffuse, this 4 monument has been erected by the public subscription of his contemporaries. a.d. 1837. 34 BROCK — SIR WILLIAM JONES. Advancing a few steps, in the panel above, against the same pier, is a tabular monument to the memory of Sir Isaac Brock, by Rossi, on which are placed the sword and helmet of the deceased. The hero is introduced expiring in the arms of a soldier; an Indian stands by, contem- plating the event in sorrow. It has this brief inscrip- tion : — Erected at the public expense to the memory of Major-General Sir Isaac Brock, who gloriously fell on the 13th of October, M.DCCCXII. in resisting an atttack on Queenstown, in Upper Canada. Proceeding to the left hand corner, we discover the fine statue of Sir ¥m. Jones, by Bacon, R.A. The ptrilosopher is represented in an attitude of composition, with a pen in one hand, a scroll in the other ; his right arm supported by volumes, which are introduced upon a pedestal, hieroglyphically engraved, and are understood to be the Institutes of Menu. In basso-relievo, against the pedestal, are Study and Genius unveiling Oriental Sciences. On the other side is this plain inscrip- tion : — To the memory of Sir William Jones, Knight, one of the Judges of the Supreme Court of Judicature at Fort- William, in Bengal. This statue was erected by the Hon. East India Company, in testimony of their grateful sense of his public services, their admiration of his genius and learning, and their respect for his character and virtues. He died in Bengal on the 27th April, 1794, aged 47. We have now arrived at the stair-foot door leading to the Whispering Gallery and Ball. To view the former it will be necessary to ascend 260 steps, so easy and so WHISPERING GALLERY, BALL, AND STAIRS. 35 commodious that a child may ascend them without fa- tigue ; to the outer, or highest Golden Gallery, is 560 steps. The entire ascent to the Ball includes 616 steps, from whence, on a clear day, a fine view of the river Thames, the metropolis, and the adjacent country, may be enjoyed. On ascending a dozen steps from the door, a person is stationed to supply tickets, — either a sixpenny one, or two for one shilling. The former admits the visitor only to the Whispering Gallery, and two outer Galleries ; but by taking both, admittance is gained to the following places : — Library, Geometrical Stair-case, Model Room, Great Bell, Whispering Gallery, and two outside Gal- leries ; visitors may take the sixpenny ticket only if they please. On arriving about half way to the Whispering Gallery, on the right, is the door leading to the Library, &c. ; here a person is stationed to receive all tickets, except the Ball tickets. In passing through a long gallery, the first object on the left hand is the Library ; a guide is in attendance here, to show and describe it. The flooring of the Library is remarkably curious, consisting of upwards of 2,300 pieces of oak, most artfully inlaid without nails or pegs. The Library contains about seven thousand vo- lumes, among which are some Polyglott Bibles, and the first book of Common Prayer that ever was printed. There are also a few valuable old manuscripts. The wainscotting cases for their reception are both elegant and convenient. Here is also a very fine painting of Bishop Compton, under whom the Cathedral was built. The next curiosity shewn is the flight of 110 steps called the Geometrical Stairs, the construction of which is so in- genious, that they hang, as it were, together without any visible support. It is supposed that they were intended for a private way to the Library. In proceeding to the Model-room, it is necessary to pass the great West win- dow. Here the mind is struck by the grandeur of the vista. The view is terminated by the altar at the ex- tremity of the choir. The fine model which Sir Chris- topher Wren caused to be made of the intended Cathe- dral, was not taken from St. Peter's of Rome, as some have imagined; but was altogether his own invention, laboured with much study, and, as he thought, and 36 THE GREAT BELL. as the world acknowledges, finished with wonderful suc- cess. THE &REAT BELL. Keturning from the Model-room, the stairs leading to the great Bell will be found situated near the Library door. In the turret at the top of these stairs, the famous great Bell is suspended about 40 feet from the floor. It was cast in 1709 by Eichard Phelps and Langley Bradley for £627 4s., who also took the old bell at 9Jc?. per lb. It is remarkably fine and clear in its tone, and produces the musical note A, concert pitch. It is ten feet in diameter, 10 inches thick in metal, and weighs 11,474 lbs. The clock strikes the hour on it, which is frequently heard at the distance of 20 miles ; the hammer may be observed lying on the outside brim of the Bell, having a very large head, and weighs 145 lbs., which is drawn by a wire at the back part of the clock-work, and falls again by its own weight on the brim of the Bell. The clapper weighs 180 lbs., which is only used in tolling the Bell on the demise of any of the Koyal family, Archbishop of Canterbury, Bishop of London, Dean of St. Paul's, and the Lord Mayor for the time being. Below the Great Bell are two smaller bells, on which the clock strikes the quarters. The larger of these weighs 24 cwt. 2 qrs. 25 lbs., and is tuned a fifth to the Great Bell. The smaller is 12 cwt. 2 qrs. 9 lbs., and is tuned an octave to the Great Bell, and cost £243 15 s. 6d. (The opposite turret contains the bell that is tolled for prayers). The clockwork, from its magnitude, is deserving of particular attention, and is shown by a person to whom belongs its care and regulation. This celebrated Clock was made by Langley Bradley, clockmaker, in 1708, according to instructions given by Sir Christopher Wren, in the following manner. For a large and substantial turret clock, going eight days, and to turn the hour and minute hands on three several dials, viz., THE WHISPERING GALLERY. 36« on the east, south, and west sides of the south-west tower, and to keep the same in good order for the space of seven years from the day of its completion, for which he was paid the sum of 300/. It is considered to be of a very superior description of workmanship, and has been pronounced by competent witnesses to be amongst the largest in Europe. It has two dial plates, which are situated, one South, the other West, and are each of them 57 feet in circumference, or nearly 20 feet in diameter. The minute hands are 9 feet 8 inches in length, and weigh 75 lbs. ; the hour hands are 5 feet 9 inches in length, and weigh 44 lbs. each ; the figures (small as they appear from the street below) are 2 feet 2\ inches long : two small dials inside work the reverse way, one shows the hour, the other the minutes. The pendulum is 16 feet in length, with a large bob at the bottom, weighing 180 lbs.; this is suspended by a thin spring about the thickness of a shilling. Its beat is two seconds, or what is usually termed by artists, a dead beat, thirty to a minute, instead of sixty. It has been very much altered since it was first made, in consequence of repeated repairs. Before the visitor leaves this part of the building, it may not be out of place to say a word respecting the lightning conductors, in the construction of which Sir Christopher Wren displayed considerable ingenuity and skill. Passing through the pine apple of each turret, they descend to the window circles, are conveyed through them to the lead roofs, and thence they are continued down the water pipes into the great sewers, twelve feet below the street. THE WHISPERING GALLERY. Next in order is the Whispering Gallery, which is an object peculiarly interesting, both as regards its situation, and also from the nature of its construction. It may be THE WHISPERING GALLERY. 37 distinguished by the spectator from the floor of the Cathe- dral by a handsome bold cornice, which encompasses the interior of the dome, and it has an elegant iron railing around it. Between this and the veJl are two steps and a stone seat. This gallery is an object , :>f popular curiosity and wonder, and derives its name froui the circumstance, extraordinary to the unlearned, but easily explained by the philosopher, of its causing the slightest sound to be heard that is made within its area. The least whisper on one side appears as if it were close to the ear on the opposite, though the semicircular distance between them is not less than 140 feet ; and the shutting of a small door resounds through the place like a clap of thunder, or the discharge of heavy artillery. The appearance of the floor below is very beautiful from this gallery, having a large brass plate in its centre, surrounded by three perfect circles, tne largest of them being the exact circumference of the dome. It is laid with black and white marble, the black slabs forming a complete mariner's compass, exhibiting the thirty two points, with the halves and quarters complete. This is also the very best situation for viewing the Cupola, which was painted by Sir Jamee Thornhill (who may justly be esteemed the first historical painter this country can boast), for which he was paid forty shillings the square yard. The designs record the principal events in the life of the Apostle, to whom the fabric is dedicated. His mira- culous conversion near Damascus, according to Acts ix. is first delineated ; then the judgment of Elymas, Acts xiii. ; next the conversion of the jailor of Philippi (see Acts xiv.,) which is preceded by the sacrifice at Lystra, in the same chapter. Then he is represented preaching to the Athe- nians (see chap, xvii.) ; the Ephesians burning their magi- cal books follows, (see chap, xix.) ; his defence before Agrippa, (see chap, xxiv.), and his shipwreck near Melita (see chap, xxvii.) conclude the series. There is an anecdote of powerful interest told of Sir James Thornhill, which we must not omit, since it has reference to the painting of this Cupola. One day while deeply engaged upon his labour, a friend stood talking to him on the scaffold, which though broad was not railed in. Sir James had just given the last touches to the head of one of the apostles, and retiring hastily, as is the cus- 38 THE GOLDEN GALLERY. torn with artists, to observe the effect, had actually traced back the last step of the scaffolding, when the gentleman observing his danger, snatched up a brush, and hastily bedaubed the whole figure. " Bless my soul !" exclaimed the artist, advancing again as quickly as he had retired, " what have you done ?'' " Only saved your life/' replied his companion, describing the imminent position in which the painter stood when his labour was defaced. In proceeding to the Golden or Upper Gallery, it is necessary to pass into the Stone Gallery, which has a handsome stone balustrade. It is here also that the great architect, in order to raise the lantern with which the Cathedral is crowned, (and which is reputed to be of the enormous weight of seven hundred tons,) has introduced within the dome a brick cone, one of the most ingenious and skilful contrivances the building exhibits,- on this is constructed the outer dome, which is formed chiefly of wood, ribbed at intervals, and covered with lead. It may also be noticed, that to render the thrust more perpendicu- lar than it might otherwk", have been, the under part has around it a course of Portland stones of very large dimen- sions, hi which is embedded in lead an immense iron chain, strongly linked together, and weighing the enormous weight of 95 cwt. 3 qrs. and 23 lbs. The stairs to the Upper or Golden Gallery pass immediately under the outer dome, which is of timber, very scientifically framed together, and which admirably evinces the amazing inge- nuity of the architect. Having now reached the Golden Gallery, by ascending 560 steps, the view from thence, on a clear day, will be found to be at once diversified and magnificent, and will amply repay the visitor for all the trouble and inconve- nience he may have encountered on his way thither. The countless mass of houses clustered below, — the Thames winding its sinuous course, crossed by numerous bridges, and covered by ships, with the richly cultivated country, which extends as far as the eye can reach, and serves to recall the whole history of the city's growth, — these to- gether form a picture of uncommon and surprising interest. Descending a few steps below this gallery, is the en- trance door leading to the Ball, where a person is stationed to receive the Ball tickets. Visitors who may have come FANSHAW MlDDLETON— JOSHUA REYNOLDS. 39 up without tickets, will be admitted to it on the payment of one shilling and sixpence ; from this door to the Ball, is a distance of forty-six feet. Although the Ball appears very diminutive from the street, yet it is capable of con- taining twelve persons, and it weighs 5600 lbs. From the Ball to the Cross is thirty feet, the latter weighing 3360 lbs. The Ball and Cross were restored in 1821-2. The visitor having viewed all above, and arrived again at the stair-foot, turns to the left, and about midway, to- wards the west door, beholds the monument of Bishop Middleton, by Louth. His Lordship is represented in his canonical robes, confirming two Hindoo children, who are kneeling at his feet. This monument, considered as a work of art, possesses no claims to praise. It bears the following inscription :— Thos. Fanshaw Middleton, D.D. First Protestant Bishop in India. Consecrated to the See of Calcutta, May 8th, 1814, died July 8th, 1822. This monument was erected by the joint contribution of members of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, and the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel. Advancing a few yards further, is a semicircular recess, which is the Ecclesiastical or Consistory Court. Near to this stands a veined marble font of plain design, but large size ; the semicircular recess on the opposite side is the Morning Chapel, where divine service is performed every morning all the year round — week day at eight o'clock. In advancing towards the north door, the visitor passes, on the left, the entrance to the Lord Mayor's Vestry. On arriving at the corner, against the north-west pier, is a statue to the memory of Sir Joshua Beynolds, the first President of the Boyal Academy. It represents the artist in his robes of office, as doctor of laws, holding his cele- brated Lectures in his right hand, with his left resting upon an elevated pedestal, to which is affixed a bust of Michael Angelo. It is inscribed with the name of Flaxman, E.A., Sculptor. Sir Joshua was interred A.D. 1792, in the crypt of this Cathedral. Long will this excellent artist be remembered 40 JOSHUA REYNOLDS — DANIEL HOGHTON. in his works : happily he has left that behind him which is of still greater value — a good name. The inscription is in Latin, of which the following is a translation : — To Joshua Reynolds, the first painter of his age, and in the brightness and harmony of his colouring, mutually exciting the varieties of light and shade, second to none of the ancient masters ; who, possessing the highest glories of his profession, became still farther estimable by the suavity of his manners, and the elegance of his life ; who found the art languishing and nearly exhausted upon earth, revived its charms by the most beautiful exertions, illustrated its rules by precepts the most exquisitely written, and bequeathed it to the emulation of posterity corrected and polished, — this statue was placed, by the friends and fosterers of his fame, in the year of salvation, 1813. Born 16th July, mdccxxiii. Died 23rd February, mdccxcii. A few steps further, in the panel above, on the left, is a tabular monument, by Sir F. Chantrey, to the memory of Major-general Hoghton, who received a mortal wound, while leading his troops to a successful charge on the French at Albuhera. He lived a few moments after, and witnessed the total defeat of the enemy. The design repre- sents the general rising from the ground, after he had re- ceived the ball which killed him, but still animated with the order of battle, directing his men, who are introduced in a charge of bayonets. In the back ground is a figure of Victory; she holds the British colours in one hand, and with the othei extends a wreath of laurel to crown the fallen soldier. The epitaph is short. Erected at the public expense to the memory of Major-general Daniel Hoghton, who gloriously fell, 16th May, 1811, at Albuera. The opposite is devoted to Sir William Myers, by Ken- drick. It represents AYisdom and Valour (Minerva and Hercules) meeting before a tomb, which is surmounted by MTKBS — RODNEY — P1CTON. 41 a bust. The figures are clasping each the hand of the other, and are pointing to the bust. Erected at the public expense to the memory of Lieutenant-colonel Sir Wm. Myers. Bart., who gloriously fell in the battle of Albuera, May 16th. 1811, aged 27 years. His illustrious commander, the Duke of Wellington, bore this honourable testimony to his services and abilities, in a letter to Lady Myers, "written from Elvas, May 20, 1811 : 11 It will be some satisfaction to you to know that your son fell in the action, in which, if possible the British troops surpassed all their former deeds, and, at the head of the fusileer brigade, to which a great part of the final success of the day was to be attributed. As an officer he had already been highly distin- guished, and, if Providence had prolonged his life, he promised to become one of the brightest ornaments to his profession, and an honour to his country. " [Sir Pulteney Malcolm's Monument is described, p. 67.] Advancing a few yards in the recess, under the window, is a monument to Lord Rodney. The seated figure is a personification of History. She is listening to Fame expa- tiating upon the merits of Rodney, whose statue is elevated upon the pedestal in the centre. Rossi was the artist employed upon the group, for which he received the ample reward of 6.000 guineas. It has the following inscription : — Erected at the public expense to the memory of Georse Brydges Rodney, K.B. Lord Rodney, Vice Admiral of England, As a testimony of the gallant and important services. which he rendered to his country, in that of 12th April, 178*2, when a brilliant and decisive victory was obtained over the French fleet, and an effectual protection was afforded to the West Indian islands, and to the commercial interest of this kingdom, in the very crisis of the American war. Lord Rodney was born 1718 :— died 24th May, 1792. Under the adjoining window, is a monument, by Mr. Ga- hagan, to Sir Thomas Picton. Genius is personified in the statue of a winged youth, and leans on the shoulder of an ancient warrior, who is designed to represent Valour, and stands in the act of receiving a wreath of laurel from the 42 ST. VINCENT — HAY. hands of Victory. Behind this group is placed a pillar, surmounted with a bust of the deceased. Erected at the public expense To Lieutenant-general Sir Thomas Picton, K.G. C.B. who, after distinguishing himself in the victories of Busaco, Fuentes de Onor, Ciudad Rodrigo, Badajoz, Vittoria, the Pyrenees, Orthes, and Toulouse, terminated his long and glorious military service, in the ever memorable battle of Waterloo, to the splendid success of which his genius and valour eminently contributed, on the 18th of June, 1815. Against the great pier opposite is a colossal statue, b> Mr. Bailey, of the late Earl St. Vincent, standing on a pedestal, and resting on a telescope. The bass-relief re- presents history, recording the name of the deceased hero on a pyramid, while Victory laments his loss. Erected at the public expense, to the memory of John Earl of St. Vincent, as a testimony of his distinguished eminence in the naval service of his country, and as a particular memorial of the glorious and important victory which he gained over the Spanish fleet off Cape St. Vincent, on the 14th of February, 1797. He died on the 13th of March, 1823. On the right of the north door entrance is a monument, by Mr. H. Hopper, to the memory of Major-general Sir Andrew Hay. It represents the deceased officer habited in his regimentals, sinking into the arms of an athletic attendant ; a sentinel stands by in an attitude of grief; and in the back-ground a guard is seen marching his rounds. Erected at the public expense to the memory of Major-general Andrew Hay. He was born in the county of Banff, in Scotland, and fell on the 14th of April, 1814, before the fortress of Bayonne, in France, in the 52nd year of his age, and the 34th of his services, closing a military life, marked by zeal, prompt decision, and signal intrepidity. Advancing from the north door towards the centre DUNDAS — MACKENZIE — LANGWERTH — WESTCOTT. 43 area, on the left against the great pier is the monument to Major-general Dundas, by Mr. Bacon, jun. Here Bri- tannia appears attended by Sensibility ; and the Genius of Britain crowns a bust of the general with a wreath of laurel. The basso-relievo, on the front of the pedestal, represents Britannia defending Liberty from the attack of Fraud and Rebellion. Major-general Thomas Dundas, died June 3d, 1794, aged 44 years, the best tribute to whose merit and public services will be found in the following vote of the House of Commons, for the erection of this memorial. June 5th, 1795. "Resolved, nemine contradicente, That an humble address be presented to his Majesty, that he will be gra- ciously pleased to give directions that a monument be erected in the Cathedral Church of St. Paul, London, to the memory of Major General Dundas, as a testimony of the grateful sense entertained by this House of the eminent services which he ren- dered to his country, particularly in the reduction of the French West India Islands." In the panel above this, is a tabular monument, by C. and S. Manning, to the memory of Generals Mackenzie and Langwerth. Victory appears lamenting the loss of her heroes, while two sons of Britain recount their valiant achievements. Against the tomb are two wreaths, inti- mating the fall of two warriors, the helmet on the head of one boy, and the wreath of oak-leaves on the other, imply the military service connected with its honours and rewards in the sons of Britain. NATIONAL MONUMENT, To Major-general J. R. Mackenzie, and Brigadier-general R. Langwerth, who fell at Talavera, July 26th, 1809. On the opposite pier is a monument, by Banks, to Capt. Westcott, and displays the hero falling into the arms of Victory. This officer was killed in the memorable battle of the Nile. The explosion of the French ship L'Orient is introduced in the basso relievo ; and the neighbouring Egyptian shore is exemplified in the sphynxes and palm- trees ; the recumbent figure on the pedestal is taken from an ancient statue of the river Nile. 44 CRAUFORD AND MACKINNON. Erected at the public expense to the memory of George Blagdon Westcott, Captain of the Majestic; who, after 33 years service, fell gloriously in the victory obtained over the French fleet off Aboukir, the first day of August, in the year 1798, in the forty-sixth year of his age. On the upper ledge is Thomas Banks, R.A. Sculpt., 1805. In the panel above is a memorial to Generals Craufurd and Mackinnon, by Bacon, jun. It represents a Highland soldier leaning upon a double tomb at one end, with the figure of Victory at the other, crowning with laurel a stand of colours, which occupy the centre. The extremities are worked off with a lion pawing a fallen eagle, a gun and shield carved with the arms of Spain, &c. Erected by the Nation to Major-general Robert Craufurd, and Major-general Henry Mackinnon, who fell at Ciudad Rodrigo, January 19th, 1812. Having viewed this part of the Cathedral, visitors if they choose, on the payment of one shilling each person, will be conducted to the Crypt or Vaults underneath, pre- ceded by the guide with a lantern and candle, where every thing worth noticing will be explained ; the crypt, like the body of the Cathedral, is divided into three ave- nues by massive pillars, forty feet square ; it is comfortably- warm and dry, and with the exception of the portion beneath the area of the dome, is tolerably well lighted and ventilated by windows opening into the Church-yard. The crypt under the eastern part of old St. Paul's, was used for the performance of divine service, as the parish church of St. Faith ; this was a common appropriation of the vaults of our old Cathedrals ; but they are now used only as places of sepulture or interment. The present north aisle is appropriated to the parishioners of St. Faith for this purpose. Beneath the semi-circular apsis are deposited all that remain of the monuments of the old Cathedral, the most perfect amongst them is that of Dr. Donne, who died at the commencement of the seventeenth century. Previous to his death, he caused a picture of himself to be painted, in which he was represented in his shroud, and CRYPT OR VAULTS. 45 from this painting his monument was sculptured, by the celebrated Nicholas Stone, who lived in the reign of James I, and Charles I. A memorandum, found in Stone's pocket-book, states that he was paid 120/. for it, " of which I took 60/. in plate," in part of payment. Here are also the effigies of Sir Nicholas Bacon and his lady in a sitting posture ; Sir Christopher Hatton, lord chancellor, in armour ; Sir Thomas Heneage, knight, also in armour ; Sir ^Yilliam Cockayne ; and the mutilated bust of Dr. John Colet, dean of St. Paul's, who died 1519. Here also repose the remains of Sir Joshua Reynolds, John Opie, James Barry, Benjamin "West, and Sir Thomas Lawrence, the celebrated painters ; and Robert Mylne, who designed and executed Blackfriars' Bridge ; also the cele- brated Dr. Boyce 9 and that highly-esteemed and amiable christian, Mr. T. Attwoocl, late organist of this Cathedral for upwards of thirty-five years. Under the south aisle of the choir, in one of the recesses for the windows, beneath a plain slab, raised about twelve inches from the ground, lie the remains of Sir Christopher Wren* and immediately beneath the centre of the dome, pointed out above by a brass plate let into the pavement, is a sarcophagus of black marble, having on it a coronet and a cushion": and placed on a base of masonry, within which is the body of Nelson: on the pedestal are the words " Horatio Viscount Nelson. " The sarcophagus was originally prepared by order of Cardinal AYolsey, for his own entombment, in the 'chapel of St. George's at Windsor. The remains of Lord Col- lingwood rest under an altar tomb on one side of that of his illustrious commander, and on the other side are depo- sited these of the late Earl of Northesk, besides many others too numerous to mention in so small a work as this. But before I close this part, I shall subjoin the following dimensions of several cathedrals, with a view to assist comparisons : — £t Paul's. St. Peter's. Canterbury. York. Extreme length. « 500 feet. 615 feet. 54 5 feet. 518 feet. Length of choir 165 ,, 180 ,, I57J ,, Breadth of transept... 250 „ 44S „ 170 „ 241 ,, Height from floor to the top of the cross 356 ,, 437^ ,, 235 ,, 235 „ Height from the street 404 ,, * This is supposed to be the spot where the high altar formerly stood. 46 STATUE OF QUEEN ANNE. Height of Strasburgh spire is 456 feet. of Vienna do. is 465 do. Exterior diameter of St. Paul's cupola is 145 feet. of St. Peter's do. 189 „ The surface of the church is Portland stone. At the end of both the north and south transept is a beautiful semi- circular portico, which is approached by a flight of steps ; and the building above it is terminated upwards by a pedi- ment. In the tympanum of one of which (that on the south side) appears a phoenix, sculptured by Cibber, the father of the noted actor, with the motto, " Resurgam," for which he was paid 106/., and of which the following anec- dote is related : " When Sir Christopher Wren was marking out the dimensions of the dome, a man was desired to bring a flat stone from one of the heaps, in order to mark out the centre; this being placed in its situation, presented on its surface the word * Resurgam,' in large letters, w T hich circumstance was regarded as a good omen." At the west end of the Cathedral, above a noble flight of steps, is pre- sented a double portico of coupled columns, twelve in number in the lower, and eight in the upper, terminated by a pediment ; in the tympanum of which is sculptured the Conversion of St. Paul, executed by the celebrated Francis Bird, for which he received 650/. ; the tympanum is 64 feet long, and 17 feet high; the colossal figure on the apex of the pediment represents St. Paul ; and those immediately on the right and left, St. Peter and St. James, ■ — each of them stands 11 feet high, — they were all ex- ecuted by the ingenious Mr. Bird, who was principally employed in the decorations. Before the west front of the Cathedral, within the palisade, is a statue of Queen Ann, formed of white marble, with corresponding decorations ; the figures on the base represent Biitannia with her spear, Gallia with her crown, Hibernia with her harp, and America with her bow — executed by the same ingenious artist; for which he charged 1180/. The inclosed ground plot of the Cathedral occupies a space equal to 2 acres, 16 perches, and 70 feet. This extensive fabric is also surrounded by a dwarf stone-wall, on which is erected the most magnificent balustrade of cast-iron perhaps in the universe. This palisade is 5 feet 6 inches in height (exclusive of the wall) and is from the MEMBERS OF THE CATHEDRAL. 4J forge of Lamberhurst, in Kent. In this are seven beauti- ful gates, which, together with the balustrades, 2500 in number, weigh 200 tons and 81 lbs., having cost sixpence per pound. The whole cost, therefore, amounts to the sum of 11,202/. 6d. The building itself cost, in erecting, 736,752/. 2s. 3d., making together the enormous sum of 747,954/. 2s. 9d. Such is a general outline of this cathedral, but the vast pile, which would be imposing from its magnitude alone, had it nothing more to boast of, is also invested with the highest degree of beauty and grandeur by the superb decorations with which almost every part of it is enriched. Its elegant outline? unbroken simplicity and dignity, claim for it pre-eminence ; while so far as regards construction, it may be pronounced one of the greatest triumphs ever achieved, by mathematical and architectural skill. The members of the cathedral at its foundation consisted of a bishop, thirty major canons or prebendaries, twelve minor canons, and thirty vicars choral, (now reduced to six.) In addition to these, w T ere the children of the choir, the young clerks educating for the ministry, — then called indifferently Pueri Eleemosmaru, or Clerici Elemosinarie, and sometimes Parvi Clerici ; but better known now, as the eight chorister boys. There were, also, numerous lay officers and servants. At present the chapter of the cathedral consist of a dean, to whom the supreme jurisdic- tion belongs, and four canons residentiary ; and the re- maining twenty-six prebendaries are now w'ell understood to be sinecure appointments. The twelve minor canons were incorporated by Richard II. under the title of" The Warden and College of Minor Canons," tw x o of wdiom are called cardinals. The lord mayor's chaplain is the preacher on all state holidays ; viz. — 30th January, 29th May, 20th June and 5th November, o« the ^irst Sunday in term, and the anni- versary of the great fire in 1666. The dean and canons residentiary preach alternately every Sunday afternoon. The general preaching turns occur in the following rota- tion : — New Year's day, Chancellor. Epiphany, Preb. Finsbury. Conversion of St. Paul, Preb. Caddington Major, Purif. Bl. V. Mary, Preb. Tottenhall. 48 MEMBERS OF THE CATHEDRAL. St. Matthias, Ash Wednesday, Lady Day, Thursday before Easter, Good Friday, Easter Eve, Easter Sunday, St. Mark, St. Phil, and James, Ascension, Whit- Sunday, Whit- Monday, Whit-Tuesday, St. Barnabas, St. John Baptist, St. Peter, St. James, St. Bartholomew, St. Matthew,* St. Michael,* St. Luke,* St. Simon and Jude,* All Saints,* St. Andrew,* St. Thomas,* Christmas-Day. St. Stephen, ♦St. John. Holy Innocents, Preb. Kentish Towa Preb. Pancras. Preb. Newington. Preb. Mora. Preb. Mapesbury. Preb. Brownswood. Dean. Preb. Wenlock's barn. Preb. Bromesbury. Archdeacon of Essex Dean. Preb. Chiswick. Preb. Sneating. Preb. Hoxton. Archd. Middlesex. Preb. Rugmere. Preb. Chamberlain's wood. Preb. Harleston. Preb. Holborn. Preb. Weldland. Preb. Islington. Preb. Willesdon. Preb. Reculver's-land. Preb. Neasdon. Preb. Portpool. Preb. Twyford. Archd. Colchester. Preb. Consumpta per Mare. Preb. Oxgate. Preb. Ealdstreet. Preb. Caddington Minor. Preb. Eadland. Dean. Archd. of London. Precentor. Treasurer. The seven preaching turns marked with an asterisk were allotted to the resident Canons and their deputies. There are two meetings of singular interest and benevo* ANNUAL MEETINGS. 49 lence held annually in St. Paul's Cathedral ; the first usually takes place about the middle of May, which is termed, the Musical Festival of the Sons of the Clergy ; and had its origin in the year 1655, when the Rev. G. Hall preached a sermon on the 8th November of that year, for the benefit of those widows and orphans of the established clergy, who had been reduced to indigence, by the parliamentary sequestrations, which were enforced against the clergy. From this circumstance has arisen the present charitable establishment, now situated in St. John's Wood, Regent's Park, which is expressly for the purpose of maintaining, educating, and apprenticing the orphan children of the poorer clergy. On the anniversary of this day the service is attended by most of the nobility, which is preceded by a miscellaneous performance of sacred music, selected from the admirable compositions of Handel, generally his (Dettingen Te Deum,) Boyce, Attwood and others. To give greater effect to this performance, the three choirs of St. Paul's, "Westminster Abbey, and the Chapel Royal, are expected to give their gratuitous attendance. The stewards who regulate the day's homage are generally headed by the Lord Mayor ; some member of the royal family commonly attends, besides the judges, and the highest civil as well as ecclesiastical dignitaries. The second of the two meetings, the former of which I have described, is even more popular and attractive ; and is usually held on the first Thursday in June, for the pur- pose of collecting together all the children educated in the parochial schools of the metropolis. For this purpose a scaffolding is erected, occupying the whole space within the eight great piers under the dome, with a continuance of rising seats to the west window, for the accommodation of the public. Here the children assemble and offer up to Heaven their youthful devotions, in gratitude for the blessings they receive on earth. Upon this day they ap- pear in their new clothes, and the number usually amounts to 10,000. It is needless to say that the spectacle is one of the most imposing and affecting that can be witnessed. It is at once a display of public benevolence, a grateful tribute to the memory of our generous ancestors who esta- blished our charity schools, and an animating incentive to the present age to patronize them, and to transmit them to 50 ANNUAL MEFflNGS. posterity. Such sights, formed of such materials, are in- deed honourable, and may well extort the admiration of surrounding nations. Let us hope that they may not be slow to follow so noble an example as is presented by our country. Having now given the reader a description of the pre- sent Cathedral, with the monuments and curiosities therein, it is not unlikely but ho may feel a little desirous of know- ing something respecting the ancient Cathedral. Accord- ingly, I have subjoined a brief sketch of that also. PART II. THE OLD CATHEDRAL. There are many vague legends upon record respecting the period at which Christianity was first propagated in Great Britain : and among them is one which attributes that service to the Apostle Paul, whose name distinguishes this Cathedral. But the degree of faith to be placed on the current sto- ries related of the primitive foundation of St. Paul's, may be inferred from the fact, that Sir Christopher "Wren could only conjecture, that it was built upon the site of a Prsetorian camp, established by the Romans, and reduced to ruins during the persecutions of Diociesian, in the third century. Upon the ruins of that edifice, it is supposed another structure was raised, in the reign of Constantine the Great. But the relapses into paganism were fre- quent ; and the foundation of the Christian Church was extremely precarious, until the reign of Ethelbert, king of Kent, who commenced the original Cathedral, in the year 610, and also presented to the Bishop of London, and the monastery of St. Paul's, the manor of Tillingham in Essex, which it still retains, and 3,000 acres of marsh land, north of the city walls, which, however, is no longer possessed by the Church. Notwithstanding this encou- ragement, the progress of Christianity soon dwindled away, and thirty-eight years had passed in apostacy, when St. Paul's was consecrated a-new by St. Chad ; but he was unable to retain possession, not having sufficient followers to support him, he was therefore obliged to retire into Northumberland with many of his followers, where a riolent pestilence depopulated the province. Erkenwold, 54 THE OLD CATHEDRAL. was the fourth Bishop of London, whose name has been very honourably preserved ; he was a shining example of the religion he professed, and the Church which he go- verned ; and was very successful in obtaining many privi- leges from the pope, and he added many endowments to its revenues. However, the bright fame of the see sud- denly fell away after his death, (his name is ranked among the saints of the English Church,) which occurred in the year 686. From this time, but little indeed is related of St. Paul's during two centuries. About the close of the ninth century, we learn, that it was reduced to ashes by a fire, and that it was soon after rebuilt by Alfred the Great, under much more favourable circumstances, and that it was then settled under the administration of his daughter, Ethelfrida. History also informs us, that the monks of St. Paul's made the first translation of the Scriptures into the Saxon tongue; and that they likewise taught the first school that was ever opened in this kingdom for the study of Greek. Dunstan, the saint whose name Dears so conspicuous a figure in English history, both as a statesman and a pre- late, was the next bishop ; his administration was long and vigorous ; and when he died in 988, it is said, the glory of St. Paul's died with him. It was to the pious attention of the monastery of St. Paul's, that the conversion of Canute the Dane was attri- buted, who amply proved his sense of the favour, by the grants he bestowed upon the clergy, more especially upon the Cathedral. The rank of Dean of St. Paul's was first instituted in this reign, and was by Canute endowed with a revenue for the support of its dignity. This structure, with the city, was destroyed again by a conflagration in 1086. Maurice, then bishop of London, immediately com- menced the magnificent edifice, which preceded the pre- sent Cathedral. Of such magnitude was the building, that neither Maurice, nor his successor, De Belmeis, were able to complete the undertaking, though each of them presided twenty years, and expended immense sums in the prosecution of the work. De Belmeis also found means to lay the first stone and founded St. Paul's Grammar School, about the year 1106, which has existed THE OLD CATHEDRAL. 55 with so much prosperity down to the present day, although now, it is entirely diverted into another channel quite distinct from the original intention of its noble founder, which appears from various original documents, it hav- ing been founded solely for the maintenance and in- struction of the chorister boys of the Cathedral : it is known to this day, by its original name of St. Paul's Grammar School, yet St. Paul's boys do not derive the slightest benefit from it. Dean Colet added con- siderably to its endowment, and for this reason, ever since has been attributed to him, the honour of found- ing it ; but so far from this, it existed, as before ob- served, centuries before him. To the pious De Belmeis, Henry I. also gave the royal tower, south of the Cathedral, by some supposed to be Castle Baynard palace, in order to increase the materials for the work; and commanded that all vessels entering the river Fleet, bearing materials for the erection of the new Cathedral, should be free from toll and custom. Exclusive of this donation from the piety of the sovereign, the contributions from private indivi- duals, " To God and the Church of St. Paul's,'' were nu- merous and considerable. Notwithstanding all this ardour, and piety of the Bishop and his flock, the work advanced very slowly until the choir was finished, in the year 1221. Very shortly after, it was thought to be not sufficiently magnificent, and it was pulled down, and rebuilt with a spire about the year 1240. Roger Niger, who was pro- moted to the see of London in 1229, proceeded with many of the Lords, Spiritual and Temporal, and consecrated the Church anew in the presence of the king. The spacious and magnificent edifice of St. Paul's Cathedral being thus wholly completed, a survey was taken of it, when the following appear to have been the dimensions : Feet. Length of the Church . . 690 Breadth . . . . 130 Height of the West Part . .102 Height of the Choir . . 88 Height of the Body . . .150 The ball on the top would contain ten bushels of grain. 56 THE OLD CATHEDRAL. and was nine feet one inch in circumference • length of the cross above the ball, fifteen feet ; length of the traverse of the cross, six feet. The High Altar was situated be- tweeen two columns adorned with precious stones, sur- rounded with images wrought in the most beautiful man- ner, and covered with a canopy of wood curiously painted with saints and angels. The great clock was a splendid ornament, the dial of which was particularly decorated with the figure of an angel, pointing to the hour ; a con- ception singularly striking and appropriate; as has been justly observed by a judicious writer : " A heavenly mes- senger marking the progress of time,' 7 and this dial, from its great size, was visible to all who passed by ; the great- est care was taken that it should appear with the utmost splendour. This magnificent gothic structure, which is so minutely described, and eminently commended, in the antiquarian writings of Dugdale, Malcolm, and others, not only exceeded in beauty, but surpassed in splendour any thing before known in "Christendom. The shrine of St. Erkenwold was adorned with gold, silver, and precious stones ; this being considered not suf- ficiently rich, the Dean and Chapter, in 1339, employed three goldsmiths of London to work upon it a whole year, at the end of which its lustre was so great, that princes, nobles, ambassadors, and other foreigners of rank, flocked from all parts of the world to visit it and pay then* obla- tions before it. A church dedicated to St. Faith stood originally at the east end of the Cathedral ; but that building was demo- lished to make way for the enlargement of St. Paul's in the year 1251-6 ; in lieu whereof a convenience was made under the choir, on the very spot where St. Faith's church originally stood, to serve the parishioners for a parish church; but since the great fire of 1666, the parish of St. Faith has been joined to that of St. Austin, so that one church serves for both parishes. The space around St. Paul's, that is to say, the church- yard, was considerably enlarged, and encompassed by a wall, extending along Paternoster Row and Ave-Maria Lane, on the one side ; and Old Change, Carter Lane, and Creed Lane, on the other. To this wall were six gates ; the first situated near the end of Creed Lane; another at Paul's Alley, in Paternoster Row; the fourth at the entrance into THE OLD CATHEDRAL. 57 Cheapside ; the fifth, called St. Austin's, led to Watling Street; the sixth and last, fronted the south door of the church, near St. Paul's Chain. The space thus enclosed, contained suitable residences for the various dignitaries, officers, and dependants of the Cathedral. The first calamity which befel this stately edifice, after it was finished, oc- curred on the 2d of February, 1444, when it was fired by , lightning. The damage it sustained by this accident was not fully repaired till 1462,* when the spire was again completed, and a beautiful weathercock, in the form of an eagle, made of copper gilt, 4 feet in length from head to tail, and 3£ feet in breadth over the wings, weighing 40 lbs. was set upon a shaft 15 feet, 6 inches long; and the traverse 5 feet, 10 inches ; the diameter of the ball being about three feet, as shown in the engraving at page 52. But a much greater disaster again befell St. Paul's, on June 4, 1561, when it took fire in the spire about three yards from the top. The steeple and spire being of timber, were entirely consumed, with the greatest part of N the body of the church. It was generally believed at the time, that this accident also was occasioned by lightning ; but Dr. Heylin states, that, thirty years after, an aged plumber confessed, on his death-bed, that it was occa- sioned by his negligence, in leaving a pan of coals in the steeple while he went to his dinner, which, catching the h dry timber in the spire, was got to such a height at his re- turn, that it was impossible to quench it ; he, therefore, considered it would be more prudent, for his own safety, not to contradict the common report of its being fired by lightning. To repair this calamity, a very general contribution was made among the clergy, great officers o£ State, and the nobility of the City of London. Queen Elizabeth herself t gave 1000 marks, in gold, towards its speedy repair; also a warrant for 1000 loads of timber, to be cut in any of her Majesty's woods, wherever it should be found most con- venient. The work was prosecuted with so much spirit, . that in five years, the timber-roofs were entirely finished I and covered with lead, the two largest being framed in * Carpenters' wages at this time was only the trifling sum of 4d. t 5d.> and 6d. per day. \ THE OLD CATHEDRAL. 59 Yorkshire and brought to London by sea ; but some dif- ference arising about the model of the steeple, that part of the work was left alone, and it was never after rebuilt, nor was any thing more attempted towards it during the life of the Queen. Remaining in this half- finished state for some years, the fabric began to decay, the walls being very much damaged before by the fire ; it was therefore judged necessary to make a general repair of the whole building. However, time passed on till the reign of James I., when Mr. H. Farley, a private citizen, after eight years' earnest solicitation, prevailed on his Majesty to interpose his authority, in order to prevent the utter destruction of this venerable fabric. The King, know- ing of what importance appearances were in the pro- motion of public zeal, caused it to be rumoured abroad, that on the 26th of March he intended to be present at Divine service in St. Paul's Cathedral. Accordingly, on the day appointed, the King went thither, with great pomp, attended by the nobility and chief officers of State. His Majesty was met at the west door of the Cathedral by the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, and the Livery, who joined in the procession to the choir, where an anthem was performed, after which, his Majesty proceeded to St. Paul's Cross, (it stood near the north-east corner of the church-yard, and was erected by Thos. Kempe, in the reign of Henry VI.) where a sermon was preached by the Eishop of London, from a text, selected by his Ma- jesty from Psalm cii. 13, 14. This sermon was after- wards circulated with considerable effect, through the whole kingdom. After Divine service was ended, his Ma- jesty and the whole court were entertained at the Bishop's palace, when it was decided upon to issue a commission under the great seal, directing it to the principal nobility in the kingdom, empowering them to consider of the ne- cessary repairs, and to raise money for carrying them into execution ; but here the whole affair ended again as be- fore. Another commission was issued in the succeeding reign, by the assiduity of Bishop Laud, which was attended with much better success; so that, in 1632, Inigo Jones was appointed to begin the repairs at the south-east end, and to bring them along by the south to the west end. Ac- cordingly, Archbishop Laud laid the first stone, Sir F 60 THE OLD CATHEDRAL. Windebank the second, Sir H. Martin the third, aiid the fourth was laid by Inigo Jones himself; and in nine years that celebrated artist finished the whole repairs, both within and without, except the steeple, which was in- tended to be entirely taken down and a magnificent stone steeple and spire erected in its stead. All things being now ready for erecting the same, an estimate was first made of the money already contributed, and that expended in the repairs, whereby, it appears, that 101,330^. 4s. 8d. had been received into the Chamber of London on this account, and only 35,55 U. 2s. 4d. paid out for repairs, so that there remained in hand an ample fund to erect it in the most magnificent manner, and the work was continued with much spirit. At the west end was erected a magnifi- cent and stately portico of Corinthian pillars ; this was built at the sole expense of Charles I. and was orna- mented with statues of his royal father and himself for a lasting memorial of their advancement of so glorious a work to the honour of God. But the flames of civil discord breaking out soon after this, put an unhappy period to this glorious work, whereby all those designs were frustrated ; and the building, which before had been honoured with respect and reverence, was now by fanatic zeal totally desecrated, and treated with the greatest contempt, whereby it became a woeful spec- tacle of ruin. The revenues were seized, the famous pulpit- cross in the church-yard was pulled down; and the scaffold- ing of the steeple was assigned by Parliament for the payment of arrears due to the army. The south cross was suffered to tumble down in consequence of taking away the scaffolding, and the west end of the church was con- verted into a stable ; also, the stately new portico into shops for milliners and others, with lodging-rooms over them ; by the erection of which the magnificent columns were greatly damaged, being, as they were, rudely mangled and perforated, to make way for the ends of beams, which penetrated their centres. Thus destitute of every possible resource of worship, and deprived of every ornament, St. Paul's gradually declined to a state of utter ruin. And here it is worthy of remark that, what the neglect and malevolence of man thus hurried on to decay, an ac- cident of nature soon precipitated into the last state of destruction, for on the night of Saturday, September 2nd, THE OLD CATHEDRAL. 61 1666, a fire broke out near the spot on which the Mo- nument now stands, (Fish Street Hill,) and spread with irresisitble fury over the devoted city ; the flames, wrap- ping everything with fire, proceeded on in two great volumes, one of which consumed Cheapside, and the other all that stood before it between Watling Street and the river. On the following Monday evening, this double element of fury joined in St. Paul's Church Yard, and darting over the roof, quickly reduced to ashes all that was combustible in the venerable pile. Having now triumphed (says Dugdale) over all opposition, it ceased spontaneously, as if by a command from Heaven. The massy walls, the work of years, and the duration of ages, stood above the universal devastation in the most aw^ful sublimity. And now again once more, much doubt and consideration ensued, in order to determine what best could be done with this range of grand ruin, which covered a space of ground nearly equal to three acres and a half. Several ineffectual attempts were made to repair it, and at last commissioners were appointed to make a report upon the subject, and fortunately for posterity, they agreed in recommending the building of a New Cathedral, that should equal, if not excel, the splendour of the old one. For this purpose letters patent were granted to several lords spiritual and temporal, authorising them to proceed in the work, which was confided to the genius of Sir Christopher "Wren, and the existing monument is a glorious proof of the happiness of the trust. Contributions were made with such rapidity, that in the first ten years above 126,000/. were paid into the Chamber of London. A new duty was also levied on coals, which on an average produced 5000/. per annum; to this his Majesty generously contributed 1000/* a-year. All things being now ready, and many difficulties surmounted, it was settled that Sir Christopher Wren should have a salary of 200/. a-year, for superintending and directing the progress of the works, part of which the commissioners reserved in hand, to ensure the speedy completion of the building. Accordingly Sir C. Wren commenced taking down the old walls. In order to this he first had recourse to gunpowder, and afterwards to the battering ram. The removal of the rubbish to the amount of 47,000 loads, proved exceedingly laborious, as well as dangerous, several men being killed 62 THE OLD CATHEDRAL. in the progress of the work. In clearing away the founda- tion of this ancient pile, Sir Christopher perceived that the old church stood upon a layer of very close and hard pot-earth, about six feet deep on the north side; but gradually thinning towards the south, till on the decline of the hiirit was scarce four feet deep; yet he concluded that the same ground which had borne so weighty a build- ing before might reasonably be trusted again. This preliminary work being completed, the first stone of the new, that is to say the present, cathedral, was laid on the 21st of June, 1675*, during the reign of Charles the Second, and the choir was opened for divine service, on tte day of thanksgiving for the peace of Ryswick, December 2nd, 1697, and the last or highest stone of the building was laid at the top of the lantern in the year 1710. The whole structure was thus completed in thirty-five years, by one architect, Sir Christopher "Wren ; and one master mason, Mr. T. Strong, and while one prelate, Dr. H. Compton, filled the See of London. So commendable an instance of public spirit and per- sonal ability cannot be too often inculcated for the example of other days. Since, whereas St. Peter's at Rome, which is the only compeer in the world with the Metropolitan Church of Great Britain, occupied a series of 145 years in building, and required the aid of twenty successive archi- tects to complete it, St. Paul's was completed in the comparatively short space of 35 years, and by one archi- tect. It may not be uninteresting in this place to mention a few events noticed by Stow, Dugdale, and others, as having occurred within the wails of St. Paul's, as they serve in some degree to illustrate the times. Here, a. d. 1213, King John signed an acknowledgment of the Pope's supremacy, and resigned his kingdom. In 1377, Wickliff, the Reformer, was cited to appear in the cathedral, and defend his doctrines ; when a great controversy ensued. During the conflict between the houses of York and Lancaster, St. Paul's was frequently the scene of stirring circumstances connected therewith. Henry VI. visited it under various alternations of fortune during his troubled reign, and his dead body was ultimately exposed there to the gaze of the people. In 1461, Edward, his successor, and probably his mur- THE OLD CATHEDRAL. 63 derer, after having been crowned at Westminster, went to the cathedral " in honour of God !" "When, Stowe says, an angel came down and cursed him. 1485, Henry VII. visited St. Paul's in state, after the battle of Bosworth, and deposited three banners with much ceremony. In 1514, Richard Hun was hung in a tower at the south- west corner of the church for heresy, a WicklifFs bible having been found in his house. On Whitsunday, 1522, Cardinal Wolsey performed mass here before Henr^y VIII. In 1547, nearly all the images of saints in this church, and also throughout England, were pulled down and destroyed. In 1552, on the first of November, Ridley first used the New Common Prayer, and also preached without cope or vestment. 1569, the first lottery in England was drawn at the west door of this church ; it consisted of 400,000 chances at ten shillings each, and the prizes were of plate. The drawing began on the 11th January, 1569, and con- tinued incessantly drawing, day and night, till the 6th of May following. It was first intended to have been drawn at the house of Mr. Dericke, her Majesty's servant (J. C. her jeweller), but was afterwards drawn as above- mentioned. In 1612, King James, in favour of the plantation of English colonies in Virginia, granted a lottery to be drawn at the west end of St. Paul's ; whereof one Thomas Shar- plys, a tailor of London, won the chief prize, which was 4000 crowns in plate. In the reign of Queen Mary it was customary for beggars to solicit charity in the body of the church, which was also made a common thoroughfare of by porters, carriers, and foot passengers in general. To abate this nuisance, it was absolutely necessary to pass an Act of Parliament, which contained the following re- cital. " For that now of late years, many of the inhabi- tants of the City of London, and other people repairing thither, have, and yet do commonly use and accustom themselves, very unseemly and irreverently, the more the pity, to make the common carriage of great vessels foil of ale, and beer $ great baskets full of bread, fish, flesh, and 64 THE OLD CATHEDRAL. such other things ; fardels (sacks, bundles) of stuff, and other gross wares and things, through the Cathedral Church of St. Paul's ; and some in leading moyles (mules), horses and other beasts through the same University." In 1299, the Dean of St. Paul's proclaimed from the famous Powly's Crosse (St. Paul's Cross), that all persons searching for treasure, or consenting thereto, in the Church of St. Martin' s-le- Grande, were accursed ; and it was here also, in 1483, that Jane Shore, with a taper in one hand, and arrayed in her " kyrtell onelye," was exposed to open penance. In 1633, preaching Sermons at St. Paul's Cross was discontinued ; and in 1643 it was altogether taken down. 66 A P P E N D I X. Tee following is a translation of the inscription on Dr. Johnson's monument, for a description of which see page 12. To Samuel Johnson, a grammarian and critic, most learnedly read in the English authors, a poet truly admirable for the brilliancy of his periods and the weight of his words ; the gravest preceptor of virtue, and a singular example of the best of men ; who lived seventy-five years, two months, and fourteen days- Died on the ides of December, in the year of Christ, 1784. Near the door leading to the crypt or vaults is a statue by Behenes. On the pedestal is the following inscrip- tion: — Statue of the late Major-General Sir Joh>- Thomas Jokes, Bart., K.C.B. Erected by his surviving Brother Officers of the Royal Engineers in testimony of their sense of his high professional attainments, and of his important military services. His honourable career extended from A.D. 1797 to a.d. 1843 APPENDIX. 67 The statue to the memory of Sir Astley Cooper is very elegant, and generally pronounced to be a correct likeness of the original by E/H. Bailey, 1846, with the following inscription : — Sir Astley Paston Cooper, Bart. K.C.H. F.B.S. D.C.L. Member of the National Institute of France Serjeant-Surgeon to their ]ate Majesties George IV., William IV., to her present Majesty Queen Victoria, and for a period of forty-two years Surgeon to Guy's Hospital. Born 1768 ; died 1842. Animated by a fervent attachment to the science and practice of his profession, it was the study of his life to augment and exemplify the resources of surgery ; and by a most assiduous, benevolent, and successful application of his time and talents to this noble department of the healing art, not his country alone, but the world became indebted to his exertions, and familiar with his fame. As a memorial of his excellence, and their admhation, his contemporaries and pupils have erected this Monument, to perpetuate his name and his example. A monument has lately been erected to the memory of Sir Pulteney Malcolm, one of England's Naval heroes. Sir Pulteney was Captain of the Donegal, under Nelson, but from his vessel having suffered in a gale of wind, he was unable to reach Trafalgar till the victory was won; if, however, it be more honourable to save than to destroy, Sir Pulteney had his full share of the glory of the battle, by rescuing a number of brave seamen from the general wreck. The monument consists of a very splendid statue, by E. H. Bailey, rather larger than life, and is considered a very correct representation of the original. Sir Pulteney is represented standing with folded arms, a telescope under 68 APPENDIX, his left, and his naval cloak hanging loosely over his shoulders. On the pedestal is the following inscription : — In memory of Admiral Sir Ptjlteney Malcolm, G.C.B. Born at Burnfoot of Esk, Dumfries-shire. Died at East Lodge, Middlesex, on the 20th of July, 1838, in his 70th year. As an officer, distinguished in every rank, by his skill, zeal, and courage ; Well tried in the battle and the breeze, And by a mild, but efficient system of discipline. Thrice appointed by his sovereign to the command-in-chief of a British fleet ; on one occasion co-operating with a French squadron, which he also had the honour of commanding. Whilst he supported the honour of the British flag, he obtained the respect and esteem, not only of our allies, but of those against whom hostilities were commenced or in contemplation, which, by his conciliatory and moderate conduct, He contributed to terminate or avert. Active and amiable in all the duties and relations of private life, whenever his services were not required at sea, he passed most of his time in his native Eskdale, where his kindness to all classes, e,nd his indefatigable endeavours to promote their welfare, will be as fully appreciated as his public services have been by other friends, not only of the United Service, but of every rank and profession of civil life, by whom this Monument has been erected. 69 BISHOPS OF LONDON, FROM THE ENDOWMENT OF THE CHURCH BY ATHELSTAN : DEANS, FROM THE FOUNDATION OF THE OFFICE BY CANUTE : ALSO, PRECENTORS, CHANCELLORS, AND TREASURERS. Kings. Athelstan, .924. Edmund, 941. Edred, 946. Edwy, 955. Edgar, 959. Edward, 975. Ethelred, 978. Edmund, 1016. Canute, 1017. Harold, 1035. Hardicanute, 1039. Edw. Confessor, 1041. Harold, 1066. William I., 1066. William II., 1087. Henry 1., 1100. Stephen, 1135. Henry II., 1154. Richard I., 1189. John, 1199. Henry III., 1216. Edward I., 1272. Edward II., 1307. Edward III., 1327. Bishops. Tkeodred or Theodore. Brighthelm. Duns tan. Elstan. t Wulstan. Ailwin. Ailwy. Ailward. Robert. William. Hugh de Orwell. Maurice, 1083. Richard de Belmeis, 1108 Gilbert, 1128. Robert de Sigillo, 1141. Rich, de Belmeis II., 1152, Gilbert Foliot, 1163. Richard Fitznigel, 1189. W. de Sancta Maria, 1198 E. de Fauconberg, 1221. Robert Niger, 1229. Fulk Basset, 1241. Henry de Wengham, 1259, Henry de Sandwich, 1262, John de Chishull, 1273. Rich, de Gravesend, 1280, Ralph de Baldock, 1304. Gilbert de Seagrave, 1313, Richard de Newport, 1317, Steph. de Gravesend, 1318, Rich, de Wentworth, 1338 Kalph de Stratford, 1340. Mich, de Northburg, 1354 Beans. Lovegarus. Godwin. Syred. Ailwin. Luiredus. Wulstan. William. Ralph de Langford. Hugh de Marny. Ralph de Diceto, 1181. Alardus de Burnham. Gervase de Hobru gg, 1216. Robert de Watford, 1218. Martin de Pateshull, 1228. Geoffry de Lucy, 1231. W. de Sancta Maria, 1241. Henry de Cornhill, 1244. Walter de Salerne, 1254 Robert de Barton, 1256. Peter de Newport. Richard Talbot. Geoffry de Feringes, 1263. John de Chishull, 1268. Hervey deBoreham, 1274. Thos. de Inglethorp, 1276, Roger de la Leye, 1283. Wm. de Montford, 1285. Ralph de Baldock, 1294. Raymond de la Goth,1306. Arnold de Cantilupo, 1307. John de Sandale, 1314. Richard de Newport,1314. Yitalis de Testa, 1316. John deEverdon, 1323. Gilbert de Bruera, 1336. R. de Kilmington, 1353. Walter de Alderbury,13C2. 70 BISHOPS AND DEANS. Kings. Richard II., 1377. Henry IV., 1399. Henry v., 1413. Henry VI., 1422. Edward IV., 1460. Edward V., 1483. Richard III., 1483. Henry VII., 1485. Henry VIII., 1509. Edward VI., 1547. Mary, 1553. Elizabeth, 1558. James I., 1603. Charles I., 1625. Charles II., 1660. James II., 1685. William III., 168! Anne, 1702. George I., 1714. George II., 1727. George III., 1760. George IV., 1820. William IV., 1830. Victoria, 1837. Bishops. Simon de Sudbury, 1361. William Courtney, 1375. Robert Braybrook, 1381. Roger Walden, 1404. Nich. Bubbewich, 1406. Richard Clifford, 1407. John Kemp, 1422. William Gray, 1426. Robert Fitzhugh, 1431. Robert Gilbert, 1436. Thomas Kemp, 1449. Richard Hill, 1489. Thomas Savage, 1496. William Warham, 1502. William Barnes, 1504. Richard Fitzjames, 1506. Cuthbert Tunstall, 1522. John Stokesley, 1530. Edmund Bonner, 1539. Nicholas Ridley, 1550. Edmund Bonner, 1553. Edmund Grind all, 1559. Edwin Sands, 1570. John Elmer, 1576. Richard Fletcher, 1594. Richard Bancroft, 1597. Richard Vaughan, 1604. Thomas Ravis, 1607. George Abbot, 1610. John King, 1611. George Mountaigne, 1621 William Laud, 1628. William Juxon, 1633. Gilbert Sheldon, 1660. HumphreyHenchmanl663 Henry Compton, 1675. John Robinson, 1713. Edmund Gibson, 1723. Thomas Sherlock, 1748. Thomas Hayter, 1761. Rich. Osbaldeston, 1762. Richard Terrick, 1764. Robert Lowth, 1777. Beilby Porteus, 1787. John Randolph, 1808. William Howley, 1813. Chas. Jas. Blomfield, 1828. Deans, Thomas Trilleek, 1363. John ie Appleby, 1364. Thomas de Eure, 1389. Thomas Stow, 1400. Thomas Moor, 1406. Reg. Kentwode, 1421. Thomas Lysieux, 1441. Lawrence Bath, 1456. William Say, 1457. Roger Radcliff, 1468. Th. Winterburne, 1471. William Worsley, 1479. Robert Sherburn, 1499. John Colet, 1505. Richard Pace, 1519. Richard Sampson, 1530 John Incent, 1540. William May, 154.?. John Feckenham, 1554. Henry Cole, 1556. W. May, restored, 1559. Alexander Nowell, 1560. John Overall, 1602. Valentine Carey, 1614. John Donne, 1621. Thomas Winniff, 1631. Matthew Nicholas, 1660. John Barwick, 1661. William Sancroft, 1664. Edward Stillingfleet, 1677. John Tillotson, 1689. William Sherlock, 1691. Henry Godolphin, 1707. Francis Hare, 1726. Joseph Butler, 1740. Thomas Seeker, 1750. John Hume, 1758. Fred. Cornwallis, 1766 Thomas Newton, 1768. Thomas Thurlow, 1782. George Tomline, 1787. Wm. Van Mildert, 1820. Charles Ric. Sumner, 1826. Edward Copleston, 1827, Henry H. Milman, 1849. 71 PRECENTORS, CHANCELLORS, AND TREASURERS. Precentors. Radulphus, 1183. Waller Fitz-Walter. Benedict. Gervase de Hobrugg, 1216. William de Rising. Peter, 1227. John de Norton, 1239. Thomas de Stortford, 1210, Roger de Orset, 1241. Robert de Barton, 1246. John de Wengham, 1263. Gilbert de Segrave. John de Kvnbanfon, 1313 Hugh de Strathern, 1328. William de Worston, 1333 William de Plumstock. William de Borston. John de Winchcombe. Philip Melreth, 1370. Thomas Horton. John Edenham. John Wyke, 1394. John Drury, 1397. Nicholas Sturgeon, 1442. Thomas Grant, 1454. William Wylde, 1474. Chancellors. Hugh Magist. Scholarum. Henry Magist. Scholarum. Ralph de Alta Ripa. Rich, de Stortford, 1184. John de Cantuaria, 1205. Gervase de Hobrugrg, 1214, Henry de Cornhill, 1217. W. de Sancta Maria, 1241 John Mansell, 1243. Henry 1259. Ralph de Ivinghoe, 1278 Richard de Clothall, 1309 William de Reynham,1331 Thomas Durant, 1333. Thomas Bradwardine,1337 William Askeby. Thomas Young, 1363. Roger Holme. Nicholas Hereford, 1395. John Godmeston, 1396. Thomas Lenhvardin, 1401 William Booth. Thomas Thate, 1423. Henry Seber, 1449. Thomas Smith, 1471. Walter Knightly, 1488. Gundesalvus Ferdinand. Gundesalv.Ferdinandl504 William Lichfield, 1504. Thomas Wolsey, 1513. Treasurers. Godfrey, 1160. Henry Banaster, 1162. P. de Sancta Maria, 1213. W. de Fauconberg. Alex, de Swerford, 1231. Richard Talbot, 1259. Robert de Moyn, 1265, Rich, de Gravesend, 1277. Robert de Drayton, 1278. Rich, de Gravesend, 1310. Robert de Reddewell, 1329. Thomas de Asteley, 1333. Rich, de Wageham, 1434. John Cok, 1350. Thomas Street, 1361. Henry de Wakefield, 1368. William Storteford, 1387. Robert Albrighton, 1393. Guy Mohun, 1394. John Douay, 1397. Walter Cooke. W r alter Medford, 1400. John Chandler, 1409. John Symonsburg, 1420. Alex. Sparmia, 1423. Thomas Morden, 1433. John Drewall, 1458. William Wylde, 1467. Robert Ballard, 1474. Walter Knightly, 1477. Thomas Danett, 1487. Richard Fitzjames, 1493. Chr. Bainbrigg, 1497. Edward Vaughan, 1503. John Edenham, 1509. 71 Precentors. William Horsey, 1514. PRECENTORS, CHANCELLORS, AND TREASURERS. Chancellors. John Edmunds, 1517. Thomas Bage, 1529. George Windham, 1531. John Shery, 1543. Edmund Grindall, 1551. Henry Harvey, 1554. John Duport, 1585. Thomas Goad, 1617. Thomas Wykes, 1638. Joseph Crowther, 1660. Thomas Turner, 1689. Thomas Dibden, 1714. Edmund Gibson, 1741. Antony Hamilton, 1771. Herbert Randolph, 1812. C. A. Belli, 1819. John Watson, 1557. William Whitaker, 1580. William Day, 1587. William Wilson, 1595. John Bowman, 1615. Thomas Turner, 1629. Antony Saunders, 1672. Edward Jones, 1719. Peniston Booth, 1733. Robert Gibson, 1761. East Apthorpe, 1791. Richard Richardson, 1792. Henry Soames, 1842. Treasurers. Thomas Hede, 1516. Thomas Benett, 1520. Robert Cozen, 1558= William Saxty, 1559. HerbertWestphaling, 1 567 Richard Bancroft, 1585. Giles Fletcher, 1597. Louis Bayley, 1610. Patrick Young. Mark Frank, 1660. Richard Henchman, 1664. Thomas Cook, 1671. William Jane, 1679. Charles Alston, 1706. Lionel Gatford, 1714. Francis Astrey, 1736. William Bell, 1766. H. C. Jones, 1816. * 3 F 633 LIBRARY OF CONGRES in una ■■ f 019 910 998 4