^ OVERLA Price .5^1.00. HHflMMMMMN ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I mS3 ,^,^gj^gg^^^^ liGISN»«i!«»«S TIE PULLIAI HOTEL CAE EOTJTE. ONLY ONE Railroad between CHICAGO and the MISSOURI RIVER (Omaha) can offer to the Trans-Continental Traveler these luxurious Hotel Cars, and that Road is the OI3:iO-A.(3-0 J^1 t-l if- ft o at « X5 N or o aQ « .s 5 0^ w -a c o ^•5 sr w o 2o 1) o .a o a> M a o o (3 •^^ JS O 0) •cs C3 O o a « XI -1^ L4 a) > O s o . §-< go . «X3.5 _ (U o o ^ H oTO 3 OX3 o ~ a? wo 05 OJ ^ THESE WORLD-RENOWNED PULLMAN HOTEL CARS ARE NOW RUNNING BETWEEN Chicago and Council Bluffs, On the Omaha, Denver and California Trains of the .2*- «ja 53 « !^ ^ -a. J. «■ ■£-• ^ «o 03 -e .2 8 u a) (0 H H Hp< Interior of Pullman Hotel Car. The Chleaco & North-WeRtern Hallway is the only road that runs Pullman or ai'y other form of Hotel, Dinine: or KesVuurant Car THROUGH between Chieaco and the Missouri River. g H^ It i3 not exaggeration to say that no road in the world can produce the equal to these magnificent cars, and as the average traveler wants the best of everything that can be had, he must of necessity use this line in his TRANS-CONTINENTAL TRIP. The charges for bertha in these Hotel Cars are thfi sflmp. CanH r\n v.i^i^«i.) as are made in the. more common Sleeping Car, worth for his monoy tl: Insist upon Tickc Examiu'! your Ti( All Ticket Agents New York Offlce- Street, under Shermai Streets; Omaha Ticke-^^ Cisco Office— 2 New Mo? MARVIN HUGH] General M^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. Shelf .6-? 'k* UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. hotels is given much more Road. ;age Free by this Line, '.go Ticket Offices— d^i Clark -corner Wells and Kinzie :reet, cor. 14th; San Fran- FNETT, Passenger Agent, Chicago. AATECEiNr insr oh:io.a_go. 1^" UO NOT FAIL TO STOP AT THE OLD-TIMK BRIGGS HOUSE. LOCATED OJS THY, ORIGINAL SITE, (RAJ^QOUPH STrREET; CORJVER FIFTH AVEUUE CHICAGO. ILL. ♦ ♦ ♦ This is one of the largest Hotels in the City or the West— having hot and cold water in every room, and all the modern improvements, passenger elevator, suites ot' rooms, etc., while the charges have been reduced to the nominal price of only $2.00 to $2.50 per day. J. E. CuMMiNGs, J. H. CUM MINGS, Chief Clerk. Proprietor. ANNOUNCEMENT. The Overland Publishing Company have now in preparation a Series of Illustrated Descriptive Hand-Boo ks of the Black Hills, Colorado, Utah and Nevada, and Oregon, Cali- F^ORNiA and Arizona. These four books, together with the ''OVERLAND'' will contain over $2^,000 worth of ilhcstrations, and zuill embrace a ftdl and complete description of the -resources of these States and Territories, in Mines, Railroads, Agrictiltural, Pastoral and other pursuits, inchiding scenery, resorts for health and pleasure, huntijig, fisJmig, etc., etc. These hooks will be in uniform Editions, in size and bind- ing, and will retail for the half of the " Daddy s Dollar!' THE OVERLAND PUBLISHING CO., CHICAGO, ILL. BLAKELY A BROWN, PRINTERS, CHICAGO. DoNoiiuE k Hbnnkberry Binders. We were all little jokers once. UTAH S BEST CROP. Photof^raphed from life, by Savage, Salt Lake City. 1-' ii CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST AND Pacific Coast Guide, COXTAINING A CONDENSED AND AUTHENTIC DESCRIPTION OF OVER One Thousand Two Hundred Cities, Towns, Villages, Stations, Government ^ort and Camps, Mountains, Lakes, Rivers, Sulphur, Soda and Hot Springs, Scener v , Watering Places, and Summer Resorts; avheke To look for and hunt the Buffalo^ Antelope.^ Deer and other game; Trout Fishing^ etc., etc. In fact^ to tell youivhat is xvorth seeing — -where to sec it — ivhere to go — hotij to go — and xvhoni to stop tuith -while passing over the UNION, CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN PACIFIC RAILROADS, Their Branches and Connections, by Rail, Water and Stage, FROM SUNRISE TO SUNSET, AND PART THE WAY BACK; Through Nebraska, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, Montana, Idaho, Nevada, California and Arizona. BY GEO. A. CROFUTT, AUTHOR OF "great TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE," AND '' CROFUTT's TRANS-CONTINENTAL TOURIST," t> VOL. 1—1878-9. -V OF CpA/(^ CHICAGO, ILLINOIS: THE OVERLAND PUBLISHING COMPANY. Sold by News Agents on the Railroads, at News-stands, and at the Book Stores throughout the United States. Eli S. Denibon, General News Agent Central and Southern Pacific railroads. General Agent for the Pacific Coast, Sacramento and San Francisco. Entered according to Act of Congress, in tlie year 1878, bj A. M. Ckofutt, in the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. r^^ ^^"^J- C-V 3P:BL^S^jflkO^. 1878-9, With the world as the book of nature, God as the author, and the Bible as a preface, tlie precedent for writing a preface is established; and woe be to the Scribe who ignores precedent and custom— he could not live on this planet. At the present day the preface of a book is read by the public— if at all— in the light of an apology, wherein the author is expected to explain : first, wliy he did not do better; and, second, why he wrote at all. First — We have spared neither time, pains, nor money to make this a perfect book. Our statements are concise, plain, unadorned, and, we believe, truthful in every particular. Yet, w^e would shudder at the charge of being absolu'elp perfect. Second— We wrote this book for Money and Love. For money to help the poor. For LOVE of the far western country— the land of the " Golden Fleece." For love of its broad plains and lofty mountains, its free pure air, healthful climate, magnificent scenery, unrivalled resources, and its unaffected, whole-souled people. We have taken the traveler with us— in a chatty way— on the longest trip ever at tempted by any author in any guide book in the world, and have recorded a telegram of the most important facts and items of information in a trip of 5,493 miles by rail, and 792 miles by steamer, aggregating 6,285 miles, besides over 1,000 miles by stage coach. We have passed over the longest railroad line in the world, the broadest plains, the loftiest mountains, the finest agricultural and grazing lands, and the most barren des- erts; we have climbed from sunrise to eternal snow, only to glide down into perpetual summer, and the orange groves and vineyards of the " Land of the Angels." We have cro. sed a level prairie 500 miles in width, then over the most rugged mountains, with frightful chasms almost beneath us, 2,500 feet in depth; and through 100 miles of snow-sheds and tunnels. Again, we have stood beneath a dome rising 6,000 feet above our heads, and trees 400 feet in height, and 48 feet in diameter; have strolled amid the redwoods, where they grow so thick that were they felled, the ground would be covered to a depth of sixty feet. We have passed through the celebrated Echo, Welder, Humboldt, and Solidad canyons; around "Cape Horn" and the " Dead Sea," down the Bitter and over the Green and Black waters, echoing near the " Devil's Slide'' and the great ''Sink'" of the Desert; descended into total darkness, with jets of boiling sulphur on either hand, and finally through the Devil's Gate, but landing snfely at the Golden Gate. The scenery on this route has been the most varied ; we have been 9,339 feet above, and 266 feet below sea-level ; have taken our breakfast amid the eternal snow, and our supper in a land of perpetual summer, and liave glided down from far above timber line into a region of continuous bloom, where the luscious fruits ripen each day of the year. The author first began his explorations of the Trans-Mississippi country in 1800, as a " Pilgrim," and upon the completion of the Pacilic railroad-line, wrote the first descriptive guide of the roads— from actual observation— the "Great Trans-Continental Railroad Guide" of 1809. Soon " Crofutt's Tourist" followed, the publication of which was continued thereafter. The popularity of these books was so great that the sale aggregated 344,000 copies. The present book describes more than three times the extent of country of any book heretofore published, and is profusely illustrated by nearly 100 beautiful engravings, most of which were photographed, designed, drawn, and engraved expressly for the author of this work. Annex — A department in the back part of this book, originated by the author, under which will be found a mass of condensed mformation, indirectly pertaining to the subject-matter of this work — and under which will be found full descriptions of all the large, double-page illustrations contained in this, our new book. From the first issue of our book, in 1869, imitators have been numerous ; no less than twenty fi,ve "Guide-books," Tourists' Hand-books," and "Books of Travels Across the Continent," etc., etc., have been issued, most of which were compiled in the East— without their compilers traveling over one foot of the route or at least not spending more than a few days on the road — while we have spent the best part of every year since 1860 acquiring the information, — every item of which we are prepared to verify To newspaper correspondents across the continent, our books have proved a per- petual " God-send," enabling them to minutely describe the wonders of the trip passed in the night, while sleeping soundly in a palace car, cquall}^ as well as though they were awake and in perpetual daylight. Now we do not mean to complain of these flighty journalists, as they are all "good fellows," but v,'e do expect the courtesies usually extended by all honorable writers. GEO. A. CROFUTT. Chicago, III., April, 1878. C3-e±tek.j^Ij insriDEx:: LiARi^E VIEWS. No. American Progress 1 Castellated Rocks at Green River 2 Clear Creek Canyon 3 Boulder Canyon 4 Gard< u of the Gods 5 Steamboat Rock, Echo 6 Valley of the Yellowstone. . . 7 Falls of the Yellowstone. ... . 8 Falls of the Williamette 9 Cape Horn, Columbia River. 19 Wood Hauling in Nevada 11 Mirror Lake, Yo-Semite 12 Nevada Falls, Yo-Semite 13 Summit Sierras 14 Mt. Shasta, California. 15 State Capital of California. . . 16 The Geyser, California 17 San Francisco and Surround- ings 18 ILL.USTKATICI>MS. Page. Utah's Best Crop.. .Frontispiece Bird's Eye View of the Plains 27 Hanging Rock, Am. Fork 29 Sidney Dillon, of U. P. R.R.. 31 Missouri River Bridge 3.5 Grand Central Hotel 37 Hanging Rock, Echo Canyon 39 High School, Omaha 41 DeviPs Slide, Weber Canyon. 4.5 Crossing Sangre deChristo Mt 47 Dale Creek Bridge. 49 Profile Map, F. P. R R 53 Finger Rock, Weber. 55 Monument Rock, Black Hills 57 Down the Weber Rivor 59 Wash-a-kie— "big chief" bl Burning Rock C'ut 65 Big Mule Team 67 Mormon Temple 69 Donner Lake Boating Party. . 71 Page. Summit of the Mountains 73 Forest View, Foot Hill Coun'y 75 Yo-Semite Falls 77 First Steam Train 82 DeviPs Gate, Weber Canyon. 83 Interior View Snow Shed 85 Overland Pony Express 87 Palisades of the Humboldt. .. 91 Crossing the " Range " on Snow Skates 93 Seals and Sea Lions 99 Snow Galleries 101 View of Salt Lake City 103 Starvation Camp 105 Crossing the Truckee River. . 107 Mining Map of Utah 109 James Bridger Ill Pricky, the Horned Toad 115 Pulpit Rock, Echo Canyon.. 117 One Thousand Mile Tree 118 Interior View Mormon Taber- nacle 119 G-EHSTE E..A.I-I IIsriDE2C— Continued. ILiliUSTR ATIOM S CONTINUED. Page, Brieham Young 123 Mormon " Holiness to the Lord" 125 Walker House, Salt Lake — 126 Brigham Young's Eesidence. 131 Eagle Gate 133 Entering the Palisades 137 Leland Stanford, of C. P. R.R 141 Profile map of C. P. R.R. ... 144 The Last Spike. 146 J. M. Hutchiugs, of Yo-Se- mite 153 American River Canyon 15i The Maiden's Grave.... 160 Truckee River 163 Snow Sheds 170 Before the Railroad 173 Eureka 177 First Mountain Express 179 Hydraulic Mining 185 Rounding Cape Horn . . — . . 186 Looking up at Cape Horn 189 Bloomer Cut 195 Map of Routes in California. 201 Livermore Pass Tunnel 207 Palace Hotel 213 Seal Rocks and Pacific Ocean 219 Crossing the " Loop " 233 B.rd's Eye View ofthe "Loop" 239 Yucca Palm 245 San Pedro's Wife 247 Orange Orchard and Palms . . 256 Cattle Brands 313 1IISCEI.L.AXEOUS. Routes East of Mo. River from 27 to 30 Hints 28 Sketch of Sidney Dillon 31 Missouri River Bridge 34 Snake River Pass — 75 Gray's Peak 76 Middle Park, Col 76 Narrow Guage 78 Giant's Cave 134 Colorado 62 White Pine 158 American Desert , 148 Water Syphon 172 Marysville Buttes 195 The Vallej o Route, 200 Calaveras Big Trees 207 Petrified Forest 222 Yo-Semite Valley and Big Trees 236 New Almaden Quick-Silver Mines 230 California Windmills 205 Tule Lands 198 Up the Sacramento 197 Down the Sacramento 199 The Foot Hills 205 First Gold Discovery 204 Sutro Tunnel 175 Tunnels and Snow Sheds 182 Hydraulic Mining 185 Ten Miles of Track in One Day 147 Boise Country 148 Pilot Peak 149 Humboldt Well 151 The Palisades 155 The Maiden's Grave 159 Gravelly Ford 159 Page. Montana 140 Yucca Palm 341 The Sweetwater Country 108 Estes Park. Col 66 One Thousand Mile Tree .... 118 Devil's Slide 119 Courthouse Rock \.. 56 Chimney Rock 56 Prairie Dogs — 56 Fremont's Orchard 57 Woman Jury 95 Laramie Plains 95 The Snowy Range. ...... .63 to 96 Utah 121 The Last Spike 144 Virginia Dale 92 Col. Powell's Expedition Excursions No. 1.. 2. 3. 4. 5. 108 217 220 222 224 227 AXXEX 1XI>EX. Commence page— 300 to 324. American Progress. . . Passage Ticket Memo. Baggage Check " Rates of Fare Our W estern Country The Far West All is Changed Condensed History. . . Organization of p. b.b. Land Grant Cost of Construction . . Importance of Road... Road I'acts in Brief Grumblers High School First Steam Train — The Madrone Tree The Manzanita Books Worth Buying. . Jack Slade Boulder Canyon Hanging Rock, Cal... Snow Difficulties Garden o f the Gods. . . State Capital of Cal.. Castellated Rocks Memories of Ft. Brid'r Hanging Rock, Utah. Steamboat Rock Paddy Miles' Ride... Salt Lake ?o. 1 tk 2 bb 3 kb 4 bfc 5 bk 5 ii 5 ik 5 bk 5 • b 5 a 5 • b 5 bi 5 bb 5 • b 6 bb 7 bb 8 bb 8 ii 9 .b 10 bb 11 bb 12 hb 13 bb 14 tb 15 fcb 16 bb 17 bb 18 bb 19 bb 20 bb 21 bb 22 bi 23 bb 23 b< 23 23 2i 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 30 30 31 32 33 Discovery of Califor'a. Sierra Nevada Moun's The Coast Range The Rainy Season. . . . Statistical Items Hauling Ore in Hides. Life of Bri^bam Young National Park — . . Ocean S tearaships Col. Hudnut's Survey. Western Stock Raising The Great Cave A Little History Indian Legend Nevada Falls Pioneer Mail The Donnar Party 300 300 300 301 301 302 302 302 303 303 304 304 304 305 305 305 305 305 305 306 306 306 306 307 307 307 307 308 308 308 309 309 309 310 310 310 310 310 310 311 312 312 313 314 314 314 .315 315 315 No. 34 ' 35 ' 36 ' 37 ' 38 ' 39 ' 40 ' 41 ' 42 ' 43 ' 44 ' 45 ' 46 ' 47 ' 48 ' 49 ' 50 ' 51 ' 52 ' 53 ' 54 • 55 Query RolPEm Through.... 316 Valley of the Yellows'e 317 Falls " " 317 " Willi'ette 317 Cape Horn 317 Wood Hauling 317 Mirror Lake 317 Pony Express 317 Sierra Nevada Moun's 318 Mt. Shasta 318 Woodward Gardens. . . 318 The Geysers...... 318 Bird's Eye View 319 Schedule of Fare 319 J. M. Hutchings...... 319 Palace Hotel 320 Fares to Black Hills.. 220 Books Worth Buying. 320 "Prickey " 320 Route to Yo-Semite.... 320 Our Artists 321 Arizona 321 and Random Shots 321 RAILROAD!!^. American Fork 130 Amadore Branch 205 Bingham Canyon 127 Burlington and Missouri. .... 46 Bay Coast 229 Central Pacific 142 Colorado Central 64 California Pacific 200 California Northern 194 Denver & St. Joseph 46 Denver & Rio Grande 79 Denver Pacific 88 Denver, South Park & Pacific 79 Eurek & Palisade 156 Fremont & Elkhorn 41 Kansas Pacific 79 Los Angeles & Independence 245 Monterey & Selinus 232 North Pacific Coast 224 Northern 200 Nevada County 187 Omaha & Northwestern 37 Omaha & Plattsmouth 37 Prismoidal 223 Republican Valley 40 Sioux City & Pacific 40 S anta Cruz 231 San Pablo & Tulare 208 San Francisco & North Pacific 222 Summit County 117 Sacramento Valley 203 Southern Pacific 227 Stockton & Visalia 207 Stockton & Copperopolis 207 Union Pacific 32 Utah Central 122 Utah Southern ■• . . 126 Utah Western 133 Utah Northern 136 Virginia & Truckee 171 Wasatch & Jordan Valley. ... 128 SPRINGS, Hot and Cold. Pages 72, 82, 123 134, 136, 161 - 172, 164, 183 '^ 211, 221, 222 ..224, 210, 253 a-IEnSTEE^J^L IlsriDEXI-CoNTiNUED. TIME TABIiES. Page. Eastern DivieionU.P. 33 Mountain " " 51 Laramie " " 94 Western '• " 106 Salt Lake " C. P. 14i Humboldt " '' 151 Truckee " " 165 Sacramento " " 178 Western " " 203 Visalia '' '^ 2:M Tulare "■ S. P. 234 Los Angeles" " 242 Yuma " "250 RIVERS. Black's Fork 110 Bear./ 138 Colorado 114 Cache-a-la-Poudra ... 65 Carson 168 Colorado 255 Elkhorn 39 Feather 198 Green 106 Humboldt 152-153 Ham's Fork 110 Jordan, 126 Kine's . . 237 Kern 239 Laramie . 93 Logan 139 Malad 138 Medicine Bow 98 North Platte 50-101 Provo 132 Quinns 163 Keese 162 South Platte 54 San Joaquin The Platte 41-54 Truckee 177 Wood 46 Weber 117 Walker 168 U. S. FORTS AXD CAMPS. Omaha Barracks 37 Ft. Kearny 46 Ft. McPherson 49 Camp North Platte . . 51 Camp at Sidney 54 Camp Douglas 126 Ft. Sedgwick 54 Ft. Morgan 56 Ft. D. A. Russell... 59 Ft. Laramie 59 Ft. Fetterman, 60 Ft. Casper 60 Ft. Reno 60 Ft. Phil. Kearney... 60 Ft. C.F. Smith .. 60 Ft. Saunders 94 Ft. Yuma 251 Ft. Fred Steele 100 Ft. Bridger Ill Ft. Halleck 153 Mare Island 203 liAKES. Crystal 96 Como 98 Carson . . 168 Donner 180 Page Green 75 Hot Spring 124 Humboldt 167 Honey 181 Mud 165 Owen's 238 Pyramid 165 Ruby 150 Salt Lake 309 Tulare 238 Tahoe 178 Walker's 16S Winnemucca 165 Washoe 172 Utah 132 Cities, Towns Vil- lages and Sta- tions. Acampo 206 Acton 242 Adams. 56 Alpha ... 157 Alameda 211 Alila 238 Alpine 242 Agate. 104 Alda 46 Alpine 131 Alta 128-184 Alkali 52 Altamont 209 Alma... 114 Alvin 40 American Fork 130 Ames 43 Andrews 244 Andersons 197 Andersons 171 Antelope, Neb., 56 Antelope, Cal., 192 Antioch 199 Aneta 197 Anaheim 248 Atkins 97 Apishapa 86 Applegate 190 Archer 58 Arcade 192 Argenta 161 Arvada 76 Aspen 113 Auburn 191 Austin 162 Baden 228 Bantas 208 Bakersfield 238 Battle Mountain 162 Batavia 202 Barton 53 Baxter 105 Bealville 240 Belmont 228 Bennett 56 Beaver Brook 69 Benton 100 Benicia 199 Benninffton, 139 Bernal.^ 228 Berenda 236 Be o-wa-we 160 Berthoud 166 Barro 221 Big Spring 52 Big Hill 70 Page. Bingham 127 Bitter Creek 104 Bishops 152 Black Buttes 104 Black Hawk 70 Black Rock o. 134 Bloomfleld 190 Blue Creek... 143 Blue Canyon 184 Borst... 81 Bovine , 149 Box Springs 157 Boise . 148 Bonneville 143 Boca 177 Boulder 66 Borden 236 Bozeman 140 Brady Island 48 Brainard 40 Bristol 65 Bronco 177 Brigham 137-143 Bridgeport 202 Biggs 196 Bryan 109 Bridger 112 Brighton 203 Browns 167-172 Brookvale 73 Brounson 55 Brule 52 Buckeye 197 Bullion 156 Burns 57 Buford 90 Bushnell 56 Burlingame 228 Buena Vista 188 Cabazon 253 Carson 174 Calistoga 221 Call's Fork 137 Caliente 240 Cana 197 Canyon City 84 Cannons 202 Cactus 2.'54 Castle 206 Cass 89 Cameron 241 Cascade 183 Castle Rock 80-216 Castroville 232 Carlin 155 Carter 110 Carbon , 98 Carbondale 205 Carnadero ... 231 Camptonville 190 Cedar 151-157 Central City 70 Centerville 123 Chappel . 54 Chicosa 86 Church Buttes 110 Churches 68 Cheyenne.. 58 Ghico 196 Chualar 232 Chapman 44 Cicero • ■ 205 Chimnev Gulch 69 Clarkston 138 Cisco 184 Page. Clarks, Neb 44 Clarks, Nev 171 Clear Creek 197 Clear Creek 40 Clipper Gap 190 Clifton 138 Cloverdale 222 Coalville 117 Cluro 159 Collingsville 199 Coal Creek 68 C. H. Mills 186 Colfax 187 Colorado Springs. ... 81 Colorado City 82 Colorado Junction. . . 64 Coin 164 Coyote 48 Como — , . . . 98 Colusa 198 Columbus 43 Colton, Neb 54 Colton, Cal 252 Cooper Lake 97 Corinne 143 Cottonwood 70-197 Council Bluffs 30 Cozad 48 Creston 102-202 Curtis 200 Cuchara 85 Cucamonga 252 Davisville 200 David City 40 Davidson... 68 Dana 99 Decota 210 Deeth 153 Deer Lodge 140 Deer Creek 132 Deep Wells 157 Denver 76 Desert 169 Deweyville 138 Devils Gate 120 Diamond 158 Dixon 202 Dexter 52 Donahue . 222 Downey ville 190 Dutch Flat 184 Dos Palmas 253 Downey 248 Douglass 80 Draper 129 Duncans Mills 226 Dunham 196 Edgerton 81 Echo 117 Egbert 57 ElCasco 252 Ellis 209 Elko 154 ElMoro 86 Elk Grove 205 Elk Creek 70 Elm Creek 47 Elmira..* 202 Elkhorn 39 Emigrant Gap 184 Empire, Nev 174 Empire, Col 74 Essex 177 Evanston 114 Evans, Nev 156 a-EiNrEiK.j^i_i in:sriDEs:-coNTiNUED. Page. I Page. Evans, Col 89 Hollester 231 Eureka 156 Honeyville 137 Ewing. , 194 Hooker 197 Fairfield 202 Hot Springs. .... .. . 169 Fair Oaks 229j Howard. 226 Farmington 122 Howells 97 Filmore. 102 Flowing Wells 2.54 Florin 205 Floyd Hill.... 72 Fink's Springs 25:i Folsom 204 Ft. Collins 66 Ft. Fred Steele...... 100 Ft. Sanders........ .. 94 Fowler 237 Forest City 190 Fountain 83 Franktown.. 172 Frank in 139 Fremont, Neb ... 40 Fremont, Cal 202 Freeport. 199 Fresno 237 Fulton. 222 Gait 205 Gannett...... 50 Garland Gardner Pass... 158 Georgetown .. 74 Geyserville 222 Glade 80 Gerard 241 Gibbon 46 Gilmore 38 Gilroy ...... 231 Golconda ,. .. 164 Gold Hill 175 Golden .............. 68 Gold Run 185 Gospel Swamp 249 Goshen 237 Granite Pt ....... 167 Graueros 85 Grangers 110 Greeley 89 Greenland 81 Greenhorn. 85 Green River 106 Grass Valley 188 Gridley 196 Green Valley... 222 Greenville ; 101 Granite Canyon 90 Grand Island ,. 44 Guy Gulch 69 Gurneyville, 2li Hallville 104 Hall-way House 135 Hallack 153 Hanging Rock... 116 Hamptons 138 Hamelton 158 Hampton 110 Hamlet 226 Harney 92 Harrisville 136 Hayward's 210 Hay Ranch 1 56 Hazard 64—89 Healdsburg 222 Helena 140 Herfano 85 Hillsdale .57 Billiard 113 Huffakers..... 171 Humboldt........... 166 Huntsville . 80 Huron 237 Hughe'? 89 Husteds 81 Hyde Park 139 Hyrum 138 Idaho, Col. ........ 72 Idaho, Idaho 148 Independence 150 Indio 253 Iron Point..... 164 lone 205 Illinoisetown 187 Iowa Hill 187 Jackson 44 Jossleyn 48 Jordan 127 Johnson... .. — 89 Julesburg 53 Junction, Roseville . . 191 .Junction, Col 70—72 Junction, Cal. ....... 225 Junction, Utah 127 Kaysville 122 Keen...... 240 Kearny Junction 46 Ketchum.. .......... Kelton............... 148 Kingsbury... 2:^7 Knights Landing. . . . 198 Korbels .. 222 Krf ss Summit ... 188 Larkspur 80 Lake 148 Latham 104 Laramie 95 La Veta 86 Lake View 174 Lawsons 74 Lawrence 105 Lake Point 134 Lang 243 Lathrop 208 Lehi... 130 Lewistown. ..... . 139 Leroy. 112 Lerdo 238 Livermore 209 Little York 185 Lincoln 193 Little Buttee 83 Little Cottonwood.... 12 Live Oak.... 196 Littleton «0 Lockwood 44 Lodge Pole 51 Lodi 206 Longmont 66 Longs Peak 66 Lone Tree 64 Logan 139 Lomo 196 Lookout, Neb 97 Lookout, Nev 174 Loray 150 Lorenzo 210 Los Angeles 244 Pa Lovelocks..., . ... Loveland. Lucin Madera Madrone.... Malad Mammoth Tank Manitou Martinez Mariposa Marston Marysville ., ., . Matlin Mercede Medicine Bow. . , . Menlo Park ...... Mendon Melrose Milbra , Millard. McConnells McPherson Mayfield Midway .... Michigan Bar. ... Millis Milton Miser Mississippi Bend... Mill City, Col Mill City, Nev....... Millstone Mill Station...... .. Mineral Mirage Modesto Montello Monterey Mojava Monument Monument Montpelier Moore's Monte Moleen Morano Mokelumne Mountain House Mountain View. . . . . Murphys Mule Shoe .. Mystic Natividad Nevada, Cal Nadeau Napa Napa Junction ...... N. E. Mills Newton Newhall Newport New Castle .., Nelson .......... Nichols Ni Wot Niles , . . . . North Platte North Bend .. . Nord Norwalk Oakland, East Oakland, Wharf Oakla'd , Oak Knoll Oakville GE.i Page. 167lO'Fallons.... 51 66 Ojo 86 149 0galalla 52 236 0gden 121 230 Olema 226 139;Omaha....... 36 254 0mbey 148 82|08ino 154 200|Orena 167 235 Oroville 194 110 Otto 89 194 0tego 150 149 Overton.. 47 235 Oxford 138 98 Palisade 156 229 Paradise 138 138 Paris 139 210Pajaro 231 228 Payson 133 39 Plum 80 205 Papillion 38 49Petaluma 222 2-29 Petersburg 80 209 Petersons 120 205 Peters 206 114 Percy 98 206Pequop 150 97 Peko 153 199 Provo 132 74 Providence 138 166 Pasadena 24l) 134 Piedmont ... 118 172 Pierce 89 157 Pine Station 157 169 Pino 191 235 Pinon 84 149 Pine Blufis 56 232 Puente ... 251 241 Piute 164 81 Plainsburg 235 148 Placerviile 204 139 Pleaeantou 209 151 Pleasant Grove 132 251 Plum Creek 48 155 Pomona 251 235 Point Rocks 104 206 Proctors 177 175 Prosser Creek 177 229 Prairie Dog 56 206 Potter 55 88 Pueblo 84 177 Promontory 144 2 :J2 Q,uarry 143 190 Ralston 68 241 Raspberry. 166 220 Ravena 243 202 Rawling . 101 190 Reeds 194 138 Red liuttes 93 243 Redwood City 2S8 248 Redding 197 . 191 Red Blufis... .• 197 196 Rjd Desert 104 , 51 KedDog 185 , 66 Keno 171 210 Rio Vista 199 50 Riverside 40 , 43 Richmond... 139 197 Richland 43 248 Richland, Cal 199 211 Ripon 235 , 213 Rose Creek 166 21.2 Rock Creek....... .. 97 221 Rock Springs 105 , 221 Con't on Page 322. 'A EvaB Eure Ewir Fairf Fair' Farm Film Flow Flori Floy( Fink Fols( Ft. C Ft. I Ft. S Fowl Fore Foui Fran Fran Fren Fren Free Fres Fait Gait Gam Garl Garc Geoi Geyi Glac Ger£ Gibl Giln Gilr Golc GoU Gol( Go]( Gos G08 Gra Grai Gra Gre. Gre( Gre. Grei Gra Gri( Gre' Gre. Gra Gra Guy Giir Hal Hal Hal Hai Hai Hai Hai Hai Hai Hai Ha> Ha Ha: He; Hel Hei Hil Mil AMERICA^ ^OGRESS. (See Annex No. i.) OCEAN TO OCEAN, OVERLAND. FROM SUNRISE TO SUNSET AND PART THE WAY BACK. Sunrise — As Ihe city of Halifax, in the Province of Nova Scotia and Dominion of Canada, is the extreme Eastern termi- nus of the grand system of North Ameri- can railways, which extend from its At- lantic portal across the continent 3,646 miles to San Francisco, its Pacific brother, it would seem to be the most proper point in the East from which we should first start on our journey with the tourist or emi- grant for the same destination. At Halifax, the morning sun, as it rises fix)m its apparent cold water bath in the broad ocean on the east, casts its golden rays down upon the first rail-track that spans a continent, and from the moment the light strikes these iron bands of civilization and progress, it seems to follow them up, step by step, through populous cities, over mighty rivers, across broad, treeless plains, and towering snow-capped mountains, on, on ! towards the tropical regions of the Orient. Every foot of the route, every ob- ject of interest or being, is minutely in- spected, while rolling over to its daily bath, in the mighty Pacific Ocean of the West. Our course is in the same general direction, but our time will be slower ; as we shall linger by the way, and shall, after noting the principal routes east of the Missouri River, take the traveler with us over the Union and Central Pacific railroads ; thence over the Southern Pacific to Arizona, 2,634 miles. We shall also take a run over the "Republican Valley" branch of the U. P. in Nebraska, glance at the Black Hills, spin all over Colorado via the Denver Pacific, the Colorado Central, the Denver & Rio Grande; dive into the mines, sip the waters of the famous Mani- tou springs, and bathe in those of the cele- brated Idaho ; snatch a rose from the "Gar- den of the Gods," gaze up at the towering Long's, Pike's, Veta and the Span- ish peaks, thunder through the mighty canons of Clear Creek, and over the great Sangre de Christo mountains, at an eleva- tion of 9,839 feet, the second highest rail- road point in the world. We will rattle through "Echo Canyon" and the "Devil's Gate" to the land of Zion, and over the Utah Central, South- ern, American Fork, Bingham Canyon, Wasatch & Jordan Valley, and the Western railroads. We will glance at Utah Territory, Salt Lake, the mines, the magnificent scenery of the American Fork, then bound away to the northward, over the Utah Northern, and take a peep at the Great Yellowstone National Park, the "Geysers," waterfalls, etc. We will stand on the spot where the "last 26 crofutt's new overland tourist spike" was driven, which united the East and the West by iron bands, and over where the "ten miles of track was laid in one day ;" we shall run along beside Salt Lake, — ^the great dead sea, — down the Humboldt, and over the Eureka & Palisade railroad to the Eureka and White Pine country. The "Palisades of the Humboldt," as well as the Lake and the great "sink" of the Humboldt, will be visited, as also the great Nevada Desert, and the hot, spurting sul- phur springs of Nevada. We shall visit the greatest silver mining country in the world, Virginia City. Gold Hill and Car- son, via the Virginia & Truckee rail- road ; will take a trip over Lake Tahoe, and fish in Donner; ascend the Sierras, and roll through more than fifty miles of snow sheds and tunnels, one continuing for 28 miles. Then around "Cape Horn," and to the old mining towns of Grass Val- ley and Nevada, over the Nevada County Narrow Gauge railroad, one of the finest in the world. We will take a run all over California, visit the "Big Trees," Yo-Se- mite Valley the "Geysers," "Redwood Forests," "Seal Rocks," "Quicksilver Mines," "Alabaster Cave," ' Calestoga, and the grape vineyards and wine cellers of So- noma and Napa counties. We will visit Mount Shasta and the Upper Sacramento Valley; Coloma, where gold was first dis- covered ; Mt. Diablo, the lofty peak of the Contra-Costa Mountains ; and Mt. Tamau. lipas, the huge sentinel of the Coast Range, where we are at Sunset, at the Golden Gate. After taking a hasty glance of Ore- gon and the Columbia River, we shall direct our course south and eastward, towards /Sunrise, up the great San Joaquin Val- ley, over the "Loop" of the " Tehachapie Pass," and out on to the great "Mojave Desert," rolling down the infamous So- ledad Canyon, — the "Robber's Roost," — and through the San Fernando Mountains, out into the valley, and to the " city of the angels," LosAngeles,with its tropical fruits, orange orchards, and eternal summer. From Los Angeles, our route is to Santa Monica, the Long Branch of the Pacific, thence around to Wilmington Harbor, on a visit to San Pedro's wife, the "Woman of the Period." We will also take a look at Santa Ana, Anahime, San Gabriel, where the oldest Mission building in the State is in ruins ; where orange trees are over one hundred years old and loaded down with the golden fruit. We will have a run through the great vineyards and fruit orchards of this tropical region, inspect the Mammoth cactus pads and the huge palm trees. From this point, "Progress" turns more to the Eastward. We will follow its track and pass over the San Barnerdino mountains, and descend into the "Great Colorado Desert," rolling down, down, to the sea level, where one would suppose ''Progress" would naturally stop, unless she had a boat or a diving suit ; but no, our train starts again downward; ye Gods! down, down we go, under the sea level two hundred and, sixty-six feet, where sulphur springs, mud, geysers, salt, and many other kinds of springs — both hot and cold — are very numerous, forcibly reminding one of the t'infernal regions;" but, as our modern teachers have done away with that old "bugaboo," we suppose they would not hesitate to visit with us this remarkable and very interesting region, and also go with us to Yuma, in Arizona, on the Colo- rado River. Let us see, we are living in a fast age ; the sun makes very good time, but "Old Sol" is aged, has run in the same old groove for too many years to retain much of the spirit of Progress. It is within the memory of many, how Morse, with his lightning, beat the old luminary, and we are now "talking all around him." Steam on the rail is next in speed ; "one mile a minute" is not uncommon. The trip from New York city to San Francisco, a distance of 3,296 miles, was commenced June 1st, 1877, by Jarrett& Palmer, on a special train, and the run made in 83 hours, 53 minutes, and 45 seconds, an average of AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. bird's eye view of the PLAINS, FROM LOUP FORK RIVER. 39 miles an hour including stops. Sol must look sharp, or steam will also beat him in the race. West to the Missour River — We shall not attempt a minute description of the various railroad and steamboat routes, east of the Missouri River. Each possesses its own peculiar attractions, a few of which will be briefly noted hereafter. Passengers from the Eastern Atlantic sea-board, contemplating a trip to the Pa- cific coast, or the trans-Missouri country- bordering the great Pacific railroad, can have their choice of five through "Trunk Lines," four American and one Canadian, which find their way by different routes, to a connection with the Union Pacific rail- road, on the east bank of the Missouri River, midway between Council Bluffs and Omaha. These five lin^s are the New York Cen- tral and Hudson River railroad, the Erie railway line, the Pennsylvania Central, the Baltimore & Ohio railroad, and the Grand Trunk, of Canada. The railroad connections by these lines are almost innumerable, extending to al- most every city, town, and village in nearly every State and Territory in the United States and Dominion of Canada ; the regular through trains of either line make close and sure connections with the Pacific road, while the fares are the same. Sleeping cars are run on all through trains — most luxuriant palaces. The charges are extra^ or about $8 per day — 24 hours. 28 crofutt's new oveelaxd tourist Onh' first-class passengers can procure berths in the sleeping cars. HINTS BEFORE WE START. 1. Provide yourself with Crofutt's New Overland Tourist, and then he particular to choose such routes as will enable you to visit the cities, towns, and objects of interest that you desire to see, without an- noyance of needless expense. 2. Greenbacks are good everywhere, so there is no longer any necessity of chang- ing them for gold. 3. Never purchase your tickets from a stranger in the street, but over the counter of some responsible company. When purchasing tickets, look well to the date, and notice that each ticket is stamped at the time you receive it. Then make a memorandum on the blank in the Annex No. 2, of your Guide Book, of the name of the road issuing the ticket, destination of ticket, form, number of ticket, consecutive number, class and date. In case you lose your ticket, make known the fact at onct at the office of the company, showing the memorandum as above described, and steps can be taken immediately to recover the ticket, if lost or stolen, or to prevent its be- ing used by any one else. By attention to such sliglit and apparently unimportant matters as these, travelers may recover their loss and save themselves much in- convenience. 4. Before starting out, provide j'ourself with at least one-third more money than your most liberal estimate would seem to require, and do not lend to strangers or be induced to play at their games, // you do, you will mrely he robbed. 5. Endeavor to be at the depot at least fifteen minutes before the train leaves, thereby avoiding a crowd and securing a good seat. 6. You will need to show your ticket to the baggage-man when you ask him to check your baggage; then see that it is properly checked, and make a memoran- dum of the number of the check in the blank of the Annex No. 3 ; this done, you will need to give it no further attention un- til you get to the place to which it is checked. 7. Persons who accompany the con- ductor tlirough the cars, calling for bag- gage to be delivered at the hotels or other places, are generally reliable, but the pas- senger, if in doubt, should inquire of the conductor, and then be careful to compare the number of the ticket received from the agent in exchange for your check, to be sure that they are the same. 8. Do not grumble at everything and everybody or seek to attract attention ; re- member only boors and uneducated peo- ple are intrusive and boisterous. 9. Remember this: "Please" and "Thanks" are towers of strength. Do not let the servants excel you in patience and politeness. All railroad employes are in- structed to be gentlemanly and obliging at all times. 10. And finally — Do not judge of the people you meet by their clothes, or think you are going west to find fools ; as a mil- lionaire may be in greasy buckskin, a col- lege graduate in n(gs, and a genius with little of either, while in the breast of each beats an honest heart. o For Rates of Fare, see Annex No. 4. -o- Route 1. — From Halifax take the Inter-Colonial and Grand Trunk railways, through the Province of New Bruns- wick via Quebec, Montreal, Victoria Bridge, along the shore of the St. Law- rence River, Thousand Islands, and La Chine Rapids, Toronto, Hamilton, Niagara and Detroit, Mdiere connections are made with routes 2 and 8. Another route is by Maine Central via Portland, and ^Ae;< the Grand Trunk, or, via Boston and the Central Vermont and the Grand Trunk. From Boston there are quite a num- ber of lines. One, as above described, is through Vermont and Canada ; another is by the Boston & Albany railroad to Al- bany, where connections are made with route 2; another is the new "Hoosac Tun- nel" route, through the mountain and tun- nel of that name, — 2.),0i?l feet in length, double track -, cost $16,000,000— cut through a mountain which rises 1,900 feet above the track. This route is a very desirable one, passes through the entire lenetli of the State of Massachusetts, and connects with route 2, at Troy, New York. Another line is via Springfield, or Shore Line, to New York city ; or, you can take part "rail" and the steamships on Long Island Sound, of which there are three first-class lines, comprising some of the finest boats in the world. From New York city, passengers who desire to visit Niagara— whose thundering cataracts, in volume of waters, far surpass all other waterfalls in the known world — AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 39 HANGING ROCX, AMERICAN FORK See Annex No. 18. may also view the great Suspension Bridge over Niagara River, which, undoubtedly, is one of the finest structures of its kind in this country. They can have choice of two trunk lines. Route 2. — The New York Central & Hudson River line, passes up the glorious old Hudson, the magnificent river upon the bosom of which Fulton launched his *'ex- perhnent," the first steamboat emr con- structed. This road is built almost on the river brink, upon the eastern bank, which slopes back in irregu- lar terraces, presenting from the car window one of the finest, if not tlie finest, panoramic view in the world. On the right are many small cities, towns and villages, with groves, parks, gardens, orch- ards, and alternate rich fields, with here and there, peeping out from beneath the trees, the magnificent country villa of the nabob, the substantial resi- dence ot the wealthy merchant, or the neat and tasteful cottage of the well-to-do farmer. Then come the " Pali- sades of the Hudson," and then again a rep- etition of the beauties above described, while to the west of our train rolls the river, with numberless steamboats tugs, barges, small boats, and sailing ves- sels of all kinds and classes, while beyond, on tiie west bank, is spread out a succession of scenery not much unlike that seen on the eastern side. This line passes through Central New York, the "Garden Spot of the State," via Albany, — the Capital of the State, — Troy, Utica, Rochester, to Suspen- sion Bridge, Niagara, and Buftalo. The direct western connections of this route are at Suspension Bridge, with the Great Western and Michigan Central and at Buflalo with the Canada Southern and the Lake Shore & Michigan South- ern, via Dunkirk and Cleveland. Route 3. — The Erie railway line trav- erses the southern portion of the State of New York, via Binghampton, Corning, and Buftalo. The track of the Erie is the broad gauge ; the cars are very wide and commodious. This route affords the R.R., UTAH. 30 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST traveler a view, while crossing and re- crossing the Delaware, of scenery and en- gineering skill, at once grand, majestic, and wonderful. The direct western con- nection of the Erie is the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern, at Dunkirk and Buffalo; and the Canada Southern, at Buffalo— with the Great Western and Michigan Central, at Suspension Bridge ; and the Atlantic & Great Western, at Corry, Penu. Route 4.— The Pennsylvania Central line receives passengers in New York and Philadelphia, and conveys them the entire length of the State of Pennsylvania, via Harrisburg— the capital of the State, —to Pittsburgh, the most extensive iron manufacturing citj^in the UnitedStates. The landscape on this line, and especially while passing along the Susquehanna River, and the charming "Blue Juuietta," and over the Alleghanies, presents scenery most grand ; while the fearful chasms and wonderful engineering skill displayed at the "Great Horse-shoe Bend." and at other points, are second only to that displayed at "Cape Horn" on the Sierra Nevada mountains. At Pittsburgh, the Central connects with the Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne & Chicago, — one of the best roads in this country — and also with lines, via Columbus and In- dianapolis, and St. Louis, or Cincinnati, Indianapolis and St. Louis. Route 5.— Is via the cities of Philadel- phia and Baltimore, by the Baltimore & Ohio. By this line, passengers are afforded an opportunity of visiting the capitol at Washington, and thence, via Harper's Feriy, "over the mountains" to Wheeling. It is said by some travelers that the scenery by this line is unsurpassed by any on the continent. The western connec- tions are at Chicago, Cincinnati, and St. Louis, From Cincinnati passengers can have choice of several first-class competing lines, via either Chicago or St. Louis, or via the Burlington route— direct, via Bur- lington, Iowa, where connection is made with the Burlington & Missouri, for Coun- cil Bluffs. From St. Louis pjissengers can take either the North Missouri, or the Mis- souri Pacific, via Kansas City, and the Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council Bluffs, via St. Joseph, Mo., or the St. Louis & Northern, and arrive at Council Bluffs. J'rom Chicago there are three first- class roads. The Chicago & Northwest- ern was the first road built to the Missouri River, where the first train arrived January 17th, 1867. A sleeping and magnificent hotel car accompanies each through pas- senger train, and meals are served, la carte, and are very excellent. The route [ is via Clinton and Cedar Rapids, The Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific route is via Rock Island, Davenport and Des Moines. This line is also fitted up in the best manner, with sleeping and din- ing cars; and, last, but by no means least, is the Burlington Route, by the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy, and the Burlington & Missouri, via Galesburg, and Burlington. Here too will be found sleeping and dining cars. We have enumerated above, the principal lines centering at the Transfer Grounds. All trains from the East and South stop a few moments at Council Bluffs before proceeding to the Transfer Grounds, two miles further west. Let us take a look at Council Blaffs— This city is in the western portion of the State of Iowa, about three miles from the Missouri River, at the foot of the bluffs. It is the county seat of Pottawattomie county, and contains a pop- ulation of about 14,000. It is four miles distant from Omaha, Nebraska, with which city it is connected by steam and horse railroads. The explorers, Lewis and Clark, held council with the Indians here in 1804, and named it Council Bluffs. It is one of the oldest towns in Western Iowa. As early as 1846, it was known as a Mormon settle- ment, by the name of Kanesville, which it retained until 1853, when the legislature granted a charter designating the place as the City of Council Bluffs. The surrounding country is rich in the chief M^ealth of the nation — agriculture. Council Blutis includes within her cor- porate limits 24 square miles. The buildings are good ; the town presents a neat, tasty, and, withal, a liveli/ appearance ; street-cars traverse the principal streets; churches and schools are numerous. The State in- stitute for the Deaf and Dumb is located near the cit}'-, to the southeast. The Ogden, is the principal hotel, and the Daily Non- pareil, and the Daily Olohe, are the prin- cipal newspapers. By a decision of the United States Su- preme Court, the eastern bank of the Mis- souri River is the terminus of the Union Pacific railroad. The terminus is now known as the Transfer Grounds. AND PACIFIC COAST GtiidE. 31 SIDNEY DILLON. Among the men of progress in America there will be found no name more dis- tinctly representative or more thoroughly in unison with the spirit of the age, than that of Mr. Sidney Dillon, President of the Union Pacific railroad. Born in North- ampton, Montgomery county, New York, on the 7th of May, 1812, at which place his father was a well-to-do farmer, he came of sterling stock — his grandfather having been a Revolutionary soldier. From early childhood his life has been an active one, given almost wholly to the advancement of the internal improvements of his country. When a mere lad, he com- menced his railroad life as an errand boy, on the Mohawk & Hudson railroad — the first railroad built in his native State — running from Albany to Schenec- tady. ( See Annex No. 7. } He next entered the service of the Rensselaer & Saratoga — then we hear of him as over- seer of a contract on the Boston & Provi- dence, and several other roads. In 1838, he took his first contract, and completed it with profit in 1840, from which time his con- tracts have been very numerous. Among these was "Clay Hill," two miles from West Troy, on the Troy & Schenectady railroad. Mr. Dillon next built twenty- six miles of the Hartford & Springfield, six miles of the Cheshier, and ten miles on the Vermont & Massachusetts. Besides the above, he has been engaged in the con- struction of the Rutland & Burlington; Central, of New Jersey; the Morris canal ; the Boston & New York Central ; the Philadelphia & Erie; the Erie & Cleveland; the Morris & Essex; the Boston, Hartford & Erie; the Iowa; the New Orleans, Mobile & Chattanooga, the Canada Southern; the Union Pa- cific, and many others. The last great work upon which Mr. Dillon has been en- gaged is the "Fourth Avenue improve- ment," New York. The contract involves $7,000,000, and is a work of great mag- nitude. SuflSce it to say, that he has been engaged in over forty of the leading public works of America, and that the contracts with which he has been engaged have amounted to over $100,000,000. The career of Mr. Dillon teaches the lesson, that, at the hands of a man thoroughly 32 ("ROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST conversant witli his business, persevering, energetic, faitlifiil to trust, upriglit in his relations witli liis fellow-men, success is sure. In person, Mr. Dillon is tall, exceedingly well built, and combines suavity of man- ner with great promptness of decision in act on. He was married in 1841, and has two daughters. His residence is in the city of New York. Union Pacific Railroad. Official Headquarters, Railroad Building, Omaha, Neb., and 44 Equitable Building, Boston, Mass. Sidney Dillon, President, iVew York. Elisha Atkins, Vice-President Boston. E. H. Rollins, Sec. and Treas., " S. H. H. Clark, .... GenV Sup't Omaha. J. T. Clark, Asst. Gen'l Sup't,.. . . '' J. W. Gannett, — Auditor, '' N. Sheltom Cashier, " T. E. Sickles, Chief Engineer, " Leavitt Burnham. -Land Commissioner, "• J.J.Dickey Sup't Telegraph,.... E. P. ViNiNG, Gen'l Freight Agent, " Thos. L. Kimball, O. P. & T. Agent,... " F. Knowland, General Eastern Agent, 287 Broadway, New York. W. C. Thompson, Qen'l Agent for New England, Boston, Mass. Though but little faith was at first felt in the successtul completion of this great railway, no one, at the present day, can fail to appreciate the enterprise which characterized the progress and final com- pletion of this road, its immense value to the Government, our own people, and the world at large. By the act of 1862, the time for the com- pletion of the road was specified. The ut- most limit was July 1, 1876. The first contract for construction was made in August, 1868, but various con- flicting interests connected with the loca- tion of the line delayed its progress, and it was not until the 5th day of November, 1865, that the ceremony of breaking ground was enacted at a point on the Missouri River, near Omaha, Neb. The enthusiast, Mr. Train, in his speech on the occasion of breaking ground, said the road would be completed in five years. Old Fogy could not yet understand Young America, and, as usual, he was ridiculed for the remark, classed as a dreamer and visionary enthusiast; the greater portion of the people believing that the limited time would find the road unfinished. But it was completed *n three years, six months, and ten days. Most Americans are familiar with the history of the road, yet but few are aware of the vast amount of labor performed in obtaining the material with which to con- struct the first portion. There was no railroad nearer Omaha than 150 miles east- ward, and over this space all the material purchased in the Eastern cities had to be transported by freight-teams at ruinous prices. The laborers were, in most cases, transported to the railroad by the same route and means. Even the engine, of 70 horse power, which drives the machiner}^ at the company's works at Omaha, was conveyed in wagons from Des Moines, Iowa, that being the only available means of transportation at the time. For five hundred miles west of Omaha the country was bare of lumber save a limited supply of cottonjwood on the islands in and along the Platte River, wholly unfit for railroad purposes. East of the river, the same aspect was presented, so that the company were compelled to purchase ties cut in Michigan, Pennsylvania, and New York, which cost, delivered at Omaha, $2.50 per tie. Omaha, at that time, 1863, contained less than 8,000 population, mostly a trading peo- ple, and the railroad company were com- pelled to create, as it were, almost every- thing. Shops must be built, forges erected, all the machinery for successful work must be placed in position, before much progress could be made with the work. This was accomplished as speedily as cir- cumstances would permit, and by January, 1866, 40 miles of road had been constructed, which increased to 265 miles during the year; and in 1867, 285 miles more were added, making a total of 550 miles on January 1, 1868. From that time forward thewoikwas prosecuted with greatly in- creased energy, and on May 10, 1869, the road met the Central Pacific railroad at Promontory Point, Utah Territory — the last 534 miles having been built in a little more than fifteen months; being an average of nearly one and one-fifth mile per day. By arrangements with the Central Pa- cific Railroad Company, the Union in 1870 relinquished to the Central 46 miles of road, and again in 1875, another strip of 6 miles, leaving the entire length of the Union, 1,032 miles, and its junction with the Central at Ogden, Utah. o For Snow Difficulties, see Annex No. 13. 32 con ene reU I we] ner act twc citj Off Sid Eli E. S. ] J. '. J. ^ N. T. . Le. J. . E. Th< F. W. the rai fai ch; pl( the wc pi; mc r fli( tio wa 18( wa Hi on th< 01 Ai foi vis tli( wc Wi an CASTELLATED ROCKS, ORE RIVER, WYOMING, (See Annex No. i6.) (3.) AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 33 TIIMIEl TJ^BXjE. EASTERN DIVISION. OMAHA TO NORTH PLATTE. p. J. Nichols, I>ivisio)i Sitj^i- C. B. Havens, Train Dispatcher WEST FROM OMAHA. OMAHA TIME. EAST ] FROM CALIFORNIA. Dally Emigrant. Daily Express, lst&2dCrs Distance from Omaha. .. 4.... .. 10 .. STATIONS. Elevation Daily Express, lst<&2dCrs Daily Emigrant. 3.40 p m 10:26 a m Lv. TRANSFER GROUNDS. Ar. 4 :20 p m 10:20 pm 4:45 p m 5 00 11 :50 a m t 12:02 pm 12 :22 12 :37 12:55 1:22 1:29 1:39 1:55 2::30 t 2:48 3:08 3 :26 3:45 4:05 4:25 4:45 5:10 5:38 6:05 6:30 6:45 7:20 t 7:40 8:05 8:25 8:40 9:05 9:15 9::» 9:58 10:23 10:35 lOr.'in Lv....*OMAHA DEPOT. ..Ar. .(Summit Siding ... 966.. ....1142.. 3:45 pm + 3:35 3:17 3:05 2:48 2:28 2:20 2:10 1:55 1:40 t 1:00 12:40 12:23 12:05 pm 11:45 11:25 11:05 10:40 10:10 9:42 9:15 9:00 8:45 t 8:07 7:45 7:23 7:08 6:48 6:38 6:20 5:55 5:30 5:17 5:00 4:40 4:24 4:10 3:42 3:20 2:55 2:38 2:20 am 9 :: p m 9:15 5:30 * Gilmore .... 976.. 8:45 5:55 .. 15... *Papillion .... 972.. 8:2C 6:25 7:10 7:20 7:40 .. 21.... .. 2H.... .. ;il ... .. ;35 *Millard *Elkhorn . Waterloo *Valley ... 1047.. ....1150.. ... 1140.. ...1147.. ...1120.. ....1176.. 7:50 7:10 6:25 6:00 8:10 .. 4i.... Riverside 5:25 9:00 t .. 47.. ..54 *Fi'emont 5:00 t 9:35 Ames ....1270.. 3:45 10:15 10:45 .. 62 ... .. 69 *NorthBend Rogers ....1259.. ....1359.. ....1335.. .... 1440 . . ....1432.. .... 1470 . . 3:08 2:15 11:25 .. 76.... *Schuyler 1:31 12:00 night 12:40 am .. 84.... .. 92.... Richland * Columl>UB 12:51 12:05 pm 1:20 .. 99 * Jackson 11 :05 2:05 ..^09 . . *Silver Creek ....1534.. 10:2(1 3:00 4:00 ..121... .Mi *Clark's *Lone Tree ...1610.. ....168b.. ... 1760.. ....1800.. 9:27 8:35 4:50 5:15 ..142... ..148... ..154.... ..162 ... *Chapmans Lockwood 7:45 7:20 6:20 t 7:00 *GRAND ISLAND Alda ....1850.. ...1907.. ....1974.. ....2010.. 6:50 t 5:45 ?:45 8:20 ..170.... *Wood River 5:05 ..178. .. .183.... ..191 Shelton 4:30 8:45 ,* Gibbon 2046.. 4:05 9:25 *Kearijy .. .2106.. ....2150.. ... 2170.. 3:25 9:45 10:15 ..196.... ..201.... . 212 ... *Kearny Juucii«tn Stevenson 3:C5 2:35 11:20 *Elra Creek .... 2241 . . ...2:305.. 1:45 12 :05 p m 12:28 1:00 t ..5i21 * Overton 1:00 ..225... ..230 .. Josselyn *Plum CreeK ....2330.. ....2370.. ....2440.. 12:.35 am 12:00 night 1:40 11:10 1 ..239.... ..245... Cayotte 11:10 2:10 11:28 11 -A^ 12:10 am 12:32 ■ 1:00 1:20 2:00 Cozad .... 2480.. 10:40 2:35 3:25 ..250.... ..260.... * Willow Island Warren . . . . 2511 . . ....2.570.. ....2637.. ....2695... 10:20 9:30 4:05 4:50 ..268 ... ..278.... ..2>!5... ..291.... *Brady Island . .^-'McPherson 8:50 8:05 6-30 t Gannett Ar . . . . *NORTH PLATT R . . . . Lv. ...2752... ..2789.. 7:30 7:00 pm t Meals. * Telegraph. The attention of passengers is directed to the elevation of each station. Trans fer Grronnd s.— These grounds are about two miles west of Coun- cil Blufifs, and about half a mile east of the Missouri River bridge. Here, all pas- sengers, baggage, express, and mails arriv- ing from the eastward, change to the cars of the Union Pacific railroad. The Union Company have erected a large, fine build- ing, which when finished will afford ample accommodation for passengers, and for the transaction of all kinds of business con- nected with the Transfer Grounds. Passengers will here need to re-check their baggage, and secure tickets in one of 34 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST the Palace Sleeping Cars that accom- panies all through trains, and thereby in- sure an opportunity for a refreshing sleep, as well as a palace by night and day. This, however, costs an extra fee. The charges are, over the Union Pacific to Omaha, $8.00. From Ogden, over the Central Pacific, to the Pacific Coast cities, $6.00. But as all cannot afford to ride in palace cars, "do the next best thing," and secure — pre-empt, if you please — the best seat you can, and prepare to be as happy as you know how. Sleeping car and stop-over privileges are not allowed on second and third-class tick- ets. Baggage can be checked only to the destination of second and third-class tick- ets — 100 lbs. allowed free on each full, and 50 lbs. on each half-ticket of all classes. Extra baggage is $10 to $15 per 100 lbs, according to class. Passengers holding first-class tickets to San Francisco, with pre-paid orders for steamer passage to trans-Pacific ports, will be allowed 250 lbs. baggage, free, on presentation of such orders to the baggage agent at Omaha ; on second-class tickets, 150 lbs., free. Orders for steamship passage can be purchased at the Omaha depot ticket office. -o- For Rates of Fare, see Annex No. 4. -o- There is no longer any necessity of pur- chasing a lunch basket of provisions to take along, as the eating-houses are nu- merous—charges, $1.00 a meal — and the accommodations at all the principal sta- tions for all those who wish to 'stop over" a day or two, are ample, charges, from $3.00 to $4.00 per day. For a Brief Sketch of Our Western Country — The Far West — Con- densed History — Organization op THE Pacific Railroad — Land Grant — Cost of Construction — Material Used — Importance of the Road — Facts in Brief — Grumblers— See An- nex No. 5. One Word More— As you are about to launch out upon the broad, sweeping plains, the barren desert, and the 2:rand old moun- tains — for all these varied features of the earth's surface will be encountered before we reach the Pacific Coast — lay aside all city prejudices and ways f )r the time ; leave them here, and for once be natural while among nature's loveliest and grandest crea- tions. Havmg done this, you will be pre- pared to eajoy the trip — to appreciate the scenes which will rise successively before you. But, ahom all forget everything but the journey; and in this consists the great secret of having a good time generally. Ave you ready? — The bell rings, "All aboard " is sounded, and our train leaves the "Transfer Grounds," and directs its course due west towards the Missouri River Bridge — The construc- tion of this bridge was first authorized by Congress on the 25tli of July, 18(i6, but very little was done until March, 1868, when work commenced, and was continued from that time until July 26, 1869, when it was suspended. Nothing more was done until April, 1870, when a second contract was made with the American Bridge Company of Chicago, and work again commenced. On the 24th of February, 1871, Congress passed a special act authorizing the Union Pacific Railroad Company to construct this bridge across the Missouri River, and to issue bonds to the amount of $2,500,000. The county of Douglas, Nebraska, voted, under certain conditions, aid in county bonds to the amount of $250,000. Also, Pcttawattomie county, Iowa, voted, under certain conditions, aid to the amount of $205,000. This bridge is a notable structure (see illustration),"one-half mile in length, with the approaches over one mile. It is located below the old depot, and op- posite that part of the city of Omaha known as "Train-Town," and has a single track. The bridge is known as a "Post's Pat- ent." The hollow iron columns are 22 in number, two forming a pier. These col- umns are made of cast iron one-and-three- fourths inches in thickness, 83^ feet in di- ameter, 10 feet long, and weigh 8 tons each. They are bolted together air-tight, and sunk to the bed-rock of the river, in one case, 82 feet below low-water. After these columns are seated on the rock foundation, they are filled up twenty feet with stone concrete, and from the concrete to the bridge "seat," they are filled with regular masonry. From high- water mark to the bridge "seat," these columns measure 50 feet. The eleven spans are 250 feet in length, making AISTD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 35 MISSOURI RIVER BRIDGE — OMAHA IN THE DISTANCE. the iron part, between abutments, 2,750 feet. These columns were cast in Chicago, and delivered in the shape ot enormous rings, 10 feet in length. When they were being placed in position the workmen would take two or more rings, join them together, place the column where it was to be sunk, cover the top with an air-lock, then force the water from the column by pneumatic pressure, ranging from 10 to 35 pounds per square inch. The workmen descend the columns by means of rope- ladders, and fill sand-buckets, which are hoisted through the air-lock by a pony-en- gine. The sand is then excavated about two feet below the bottom of the column, the men come out through the air-lock, a leverage, from 100 to 300 tons, is applied, the pneumatic pressure is removed, and the column sinks, from three inches to two and one-half ft-et — in one instance, the col- umn steadily sank down 17 feet. When- ever the column sinks, the sand fills in from 10 to 30 feet— in one instance, 40 feet. This has to be excavated before another sinking of a few inches can take place, making altogether a slow and tedious process. Soon after crossing the bridge, our train stops in the Omaha depot — a large build- ing with one enormous span overhead, built in the most substantial manner, of iron and glass, with six tracks running through it from end to end. On the south side are ample waiting and dining-rooms, express, telegraph, baggage, ticket, and other offices. Passengers who wish to stop over, will find omnibuses at the depot to take them and their baggage to the hotels, or any point in the city ; fare, 50 cents ; or, they will find street cars on the north side of the depot, that leave every five minutes, passing the principal hotels, and running the whole length of the city ; fare, 5 cents. 36 CROPUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Omalia — This is one of the most pro- gressive cities in the West. It is the county seat of Douglas county, situated on the western bank of the Missouri River, on a slope about 50 feet above high- water mark, with an altitude of 966 feet above sea level. The first "claim cabin" was built here in 1854, and the place named Omaha, after the Omaha Indians. It is related that the first postmaster of Omaha used his hat for a postoflice, and many times, when the postmaster was on the prairie, some expectant, anxious indi- vidual, would chase him for miles until he overtook the traveling postofflce and re- ceived his letter. "Large oaks from little acorns grow," says the old rhyme , 'tis il- lustrated in this case. The battered-hat postoflice has given place to a first-class postoflice, commensurate with the future growth of the city, which nowr claims a population of 24,000. In 1875, the Government completed a large court-house and pos office building, using a very fine quality of Cincinnati free-stone. It is 122 feet in length by 66 feet in width— four stories high — cost $3)0,000, and is one of the most attractive buildings in the city. The State capital was first located here, but was removed toLincoln in 1868. Omaha though the first settlement made in Ne- braska, is a young city. The town improved steadily until 1859, when it commenced to gain very rapidly. The inaugurating of the Union Pacific railroad gave it another onward impetus, and since then the growth of the city has been very rapid. There are many evidences of continued prosperity and future greatness, one of which, is the fact that there are no dwelling houses in the city "To Let;" besides the organization of a Board of Trade, with 128 members ; smelting and refining works, employing 140 men, and reducing ores to the value of $5,000,000, annually ; and three banks, with a banking capital of $820,000. In 1877, there were 2,974 depositors, with average deposits of $2,587,021.20. These banks' " exchange" for the year, amounted to $38,- 181,671. ?8, and their " currency shipments" to $8,548,303.00. The receipts of wheat, corn, rye, barley, oats and flax, at Omaha, for 1877, amounted to 1,756,865 bushels; of flour 16,900 barrels. The shipments for the same time were: flour, 5,720 barrels; of ihe grains named ^bove, 1,795,745, Omaha has three daily newspapers — the Herald, the Republican and the Bee; two weeklies, the Journal of Commerce and the Commercial Exchange; one tri-weekly, the Omaha Post, and one monthly, the High School. It has 17 hotels, — " hotels till you can't rest," — chief of which are the Grand Cen- tral and the Metropolitan. Of Churches, there are 19. Schools, both public and private, are numerous, and if the Omaha people feel proud of one thing more than another, it is of their schools. The city has $430,975 invested in free school jn-op- erty, employs 44 teachers, and is educating about 3,000 pupils. The High School is the finest build- ing of its kind in the Western country, and stands on Capitol Hill, on the site of the old State House, the highest point in the city, and is the first object which attracts the attention of the traveler approaching from the East, North or South. Its eleva- tion and commaudmg position stand forth as a fitting monument to attest a people's intelligence and worth. See Annex No. 6, To the north of the High School build- ing, is the Creighton College, just com- pleted at a cost of $55,000, with a further endowment of $100,000, the gift of Mrs. Edward Creighton. The building is 54 by 126 feet — three stories and a basement — capable of accommodating 480 pupils. It will be -a. free school, and conducted by the Jesuit Fathers. The annual report of the Board of Trade gives the amount expended for buildings and improvements, in Omaha, for 1877, as $750,000.— "Figures talk."— The same au- thority says : "In addition to the receipts of base metal and ore, amounting to 3,249 car-loads as freight, there were received $34,385,516 in gold bullion and coin, and $15,936,843 in silver bullion and coin by the Union Pacific Express Company. In other words, Omaha handled over $60,000,- 000 out of a total production of $98,000,000. The Willow Springs Distillery, near the cit)^ used, in 1877, 196,550 bushels of grain, made 624,000 gallons of spirits, paid to the Government, for tax, $532,856.10, fattened 1,500 head of cattle, and 2,000 hogs. The Union Elevator is another new es- tablishment. It cost $15,000, and handles grain by gravity. It is built on the side of a hill, so that cars are unloaded into tiie top of the building. Ten cars can be un- loaded into the bins on the upper track, and at the same time ten can be loaded from the spout on the lower side. The AXD TACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 37 cars are unloaded into two rows of pits, hold- ing a carload each, the upper bins running the grain through theclean- eis, and the lower bins totlie elevators, of which there are two in number, although gravity does the work when cleaning, and grading is unnecessary. Omaha, until recently never possessed tirst-class hotel accommodations ; none felt it more than the citizens themselves. This necessity induced many of the prominen* and most enterprising merchants and residents of the city to organize a stock company, to build what they have called the Grand Centeral. The latest Omaha en- terprise is the Omaha White Lead Co with a paid-up capital of THE GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL, And a well kept house it is organized in 18:8, $100,000. The works are to be constructed as soon as pos- sible, and will be located one half-mile w^est of the U. P. Depot. Omaha has also a beautiful driving park, know^n as Hanscom Park, the gift of Mr. A. J. Hanscom and Mr. James" G. McGath. It is situated about one mile southwest from the center of the city, con- tains 80 acres, is in as romantic and pic- turesque a locality as one could wish, with a perfect forest of shade trees and beauti- ful walks, fountains, etc., and, in fact, is "a thing of beauty," and to the citizens of Omaha, we believe, will be "a joy forever." Owing to the wonderful increase in the receipts of cattle, at Omaha, during the last year, amounting to 95,500 head, a movement is on foot to establish extensive stock yards, near the city. Among the manufactories of Omaha, is an oil mill, that consumes $95,000 of raw material annually. Omaha is the headquarters of the De- partment of the Platte. The Omaha Bar- racks were established here in 1868 ; are eight in number, capable of accomoda- ting 1,000 men. They are situated about 3 miles north, and in full view of the city. Latitude, 40 deg. 20 min. ; longitude, 96 deg. from Greenwich. Eighty acres of land are held as reserved, though no reser- vation has yet been declared at this post. There is an excellent carriage-road to the barracks, and a tine drive around them, which affords pleasure parties an excellent oppru'tunity to witness thedre?s-parades of "the boys in blue." It is a favorite resort. The parade, the fine drive and improve- ments around the place, calling out many of the fashionable pleasure-seekers of Omaha. The grounds have been planted with shade-trees, and in a few years it will become one of the many pleasant places around the growing city of Omaha. The post is the main distributing point for all troops and stores destined for the West. The barracks were erected for the purpose of quartering the troops during the winter season when their services were not required on the plains, and as a gene- ral rendezvous for all troops destined for that quarter. Besides the Union Pacific, there are two other railroads that branch off from Omaha. The Omaha & Northwestern, and the Omaha & Plattsmouth Branch railroads. The e roads were chartered under the gen- eral railway act which gave two thousand acres of land for every mile of road com- pleted before a specified time. Tbe route of the Northwestern is five miles up the Missouri River Valley, then northwest to the valley of the Papillion, thence to the 38 crofutt's new overland tourist Elkhorn River, and up the Elkhorn Valley to the mouth of the Niobrara. It is now completed, and cars are running to Teka- mah, Burt county — about 50 miles from Omaha. At Blair connections are made with the Sioux City & Pacific railroad. The route of the Omaha & Plattsmouth Branch, is down the Missouri River Valley, where it crosses the Platte and runs to Ore- opolis. This road is under the manage- ment of the Burlington & Missouri River Railroad Co., and makes close connections at Oreopolis with the main line, for the East and West. At Omaha, are located the general offi- ces of the Union Pacific Railroad Com- pany, in a fine, large building just com- pleted and fitted up in the most complete and convenient manner. This company employs about 5,000 men; this includes the men employed in the Laramie rolling mill and in the coal mines. There are about 4,000 employed on the road proper . there are over 700 employed in the shops at Omaha, and about 800 more in the vari- ous offices, at stations, on the track, and at the depots at Omaha, making 1,500 in all that are on the Omaha pay rolls. The rolling stock equipments consist, in part, of 168 engines, 25 first-class passen- ger cars, 23 sleepers, 2,345 box and flat cars, 500 coal and 120 stock, together with mail, express, baggage, way, and other cars, making a total of 3,060. The company have prepared a building, just east of their depot, for the benefit of emigrant passengers. The house is given rent free to a competent person who charges 25 cents each, for good plain meals, and good lodgings. All gambling, emigrant runners, peddlers, ticket-sellers, and "bummers" are forbidden in the house or about the premises. About one mile above the bridge, on the low lands fronting the river, the railroad company have located their principal shops and store-houses. They are built of brick, in the most substantial form, and with the out buildings, lumber yard, tracks, etc., cover about 30 acres of ground. The machine shop is furnished with all the new and most improved machinery, which is necessary for the successful work- ing at all the branches of car and locomo- tive repairs or car construction. The round-house contains 20. stalls; the foundry, blacksmith shop, car and paint shops, are constructed and furnished in the best manner. The company manufac- ture most of their own cars. The passen- ger cars, in point of neatness, finish, strength of build and size, are unsurpassed by any, and rivaled by few manufactured elsewhere. It is the expressed determina- tion of the Union Pacific Company to pro- vide as good cars and coaclies for the trav- eling public in style and finish as those of any Eastern road. They reason, that as the great trans-continental railroad is the long- est and grandest on the continent, its roll- ing-stock should be equally grand and mag- nificent. From the appearance of the cars already manufactured, they will achieve their desires. On the same principle, we proposed to make our Book superior to any other. Haven't we done so ? Our train runs along through the south- ern suburbs of the city, on an ascending grade 3 2-10 miles, to f^nmniet {Riding; — a flag station, where trains seldom stop. Elevation, 1,142 feet, 176 higher than the Omaha depot. But our route is now downward for 6 3-10 miles to Grilinore — The country around this station is rich prairie land, well cultivated. A small cluster of buildings stands near the road ; thesta ion is of little importance, merely for local accommodation. Continuing our descent 5 miles, we reach Papillioii (Pap-e-o)— Here we are at the lowest elevation on the whole line, excepting Omaha, which is 6 feet lower. From this station to Sherman, on the Black Hills, 535 miles, it will be a grad- ual up-grade, rising in the distance 7,270 :eet. Papillion is the county seat of Sarpey county and has the usual county buildings, some of which are fine structures. The Times, a weekly paper, is published here. The station is on the east side of Papillion River, a narrow stream of some 50 miles in length, which, running southward, empties into Elkhorn River, a few miles below the station. The bridge over the stream is a very substantial wooden struc- ture . The country about the station has been improved very much within the last few years; it has fully doubled its popu- lation, which is now about 1,000, and evi- dences of thrift appear on every hand. Soon after leaving the station, we cross the Papillion River, and 6 4-10 miles brings us to AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 39 HANGING ROCK, ECHO CANYON, UTAH. Hillard — an unimportant station to the tourist, is situated in tlie midst of a fine agricultural section — two stores, a flouring mill and hotel; population about 100. Eight miles further, we come to Elk horn —which is on the east bank of Elkhorn River, and of considerable im- portance as a point for freight traffic— it be- ing the outlet of Elkhorn River valley. Elkhorn River — is a stream of about 300 miles in l^^ngth. It rises among the hills of the Divide, near where the head- waters of the Niobrara River rise and wend their way toward their final destination, the Missouri. The course of Elkhorn creek, or river, is east of south. It is one of the few streams in this part suitable for mill purposes, and possesses many excel- lent mill sites along its course. The valley of this stream averages about eight miles in width, and is of the best quality of farming land. It is settled by Germans for over 100 miles of its length from its junction with the Platte River. The stream abounds in native fish, as well as a great variety of "fancy brands" from the East — a car load of wliich were accidently emptied into the water at the bridge, while en route to be placed in the lakes and streams of California, during the spring of 1873. Wild turkeys on the plains, and among the low hills, along with deer and antelope, afiord sport and excitement for the hunter. The river swarms with ducks and geese at certain seasons of the year, that come here to nest and feed. The natural thrift of the German is manifested in his well-con- ducted farms, comfortable houses, sur- rounded by growing orchards and well- tilled gardens. There is no pleasanter val- ley in Nebraska than this, or one where the traveler w.U find a better field for ob- serving the rapid growth and great natural resources of the Northwest; and should he choose to pass a w^eek or more in hunting and fi-hing, he will find ample sport and a hospitable home with almost any of the 40 crofutt's neav overland tourist German settlers. Two miles from Elkhoru is Waterloo— a small side-track station where passenger trains seldom stop. Here, too, is a flouring mill, store, school-house, and some neat little cottages of the well-to- do farmers. From this station it is 4 3-10 miles to Valley — This station shows a marked improvement within the last few years; there are a score of new buildings in sight ; elevation, 1,147 feet. The curious who wish to note the elevation — station by sta- tion— are referred to the "Time Table" at the commencement of each division, where the figures will be tound for each station on the whole line of road. Tlio OiQt^lia Jt Ropnblleaii Valley Kailroad — branches oft' southwesterly from Valley. It is com- pleted to David City, 61 miles distant. The road crosses the Platte River on a ■ pile bridge 2,200 feet long, and enters Saunders county, crosses the river bot- tom, and reaches Clear Creek — the first station from Valley, 7 miles distant. Passing on over a rolling prairie, 5 miles further, we come to Alvin — a station named for Senator Al- vin Saunders, of Nebraska. This is a small place, composed of a thrifty farming neighborhood. Five miles from here is Wahoo — the county seat of Saunders county. Wahoo is situated on a broad plateau, near the depot, in the midst of a farming country, where they raise 60 bushels of corn, 50 bushels of oats, and 25 bushels of wheat to the acre, and other crops in pro- portion. There are three fiouring mills in the town. The court house, school, and other buildings are very good. Near the town is located one of the finest fair grounds and race-tracks in the State. The Wahoo House is the hotel to stop at, and the Independent, a weekly paper published here, the paper to subscribe for, if you want to keep posted on what is going on in and around the country. Leaving Wahoo, the face of the country becomes more rolling, and after crossing Wahoo Creek and making a run of eight miles, we reach Wkstox — It is still young, but a very prosperous little place, nine miles from Valaparaso— asmall place of four stores, a hotel, and school-house, situated on Oak Creek, on which is some very fine land, as well as large groves of oak. Brainard — comes next, three miles from Valparaiso, after rolling over numerous cuts and rough country. Ten miles more, and we are at the end of the track, at David City — county seat of Butler county. Population about 250, with two weekly newspapers, the Republican and the Press. There are four churches and several schools, at David City. The hotel at which to stop is the Saun- ders House. Mr. S. H. H. Clark, the General Superintendent of the Union Pa- cific, is its President, and it is understood to be owned by the Union Pacific parties, under whose management it is now con- ducted. We will now return to Valley, and pro- ceed westward. From Valley the Bluffs on the south side of the Platte River can be seen in the distance, but a few miles away, in a south- westerly direction. Soon after leaving the station we catch the first glimpse of the Platte River, on our left. Seven miles fur- ther over the broad plain brings us to Riverside — an unimportant station, from which it is 4 3-10 miles to I^reiiiont— the county seat of Dodge county, situated about three miles north of the Platte River, and contains a population of about 3,500. Passenger trains stop here, both from the East and the West, for din- ner. The eating house is one of the best on the whole line. The company have here, besides their excellent depot, a round-house with six stalls. The public buildings include a jail and court-house, seven churches, and some fine school-houses. Also a fine opera house. The Occidental is the principal hotel. Eight years ago we said: "It was a thriving place in the midst of a beautiful country." Now it is a cily of no mean pretentions. Within the past eight years there has been built nearly eight hundred dwelling houses, with stores of all kinds in proportion. All of this "beautiful country" has been taken up and occupied by thrifty farmers, who are reap- ing an abundant reward for their labor. The Herald, a daily and weekly, and the Tribune — weekly, are the newspapers pub- lisli' d here. The Sioux City & Pacific R. R. con- nects here with the U. P. and runs through to St. Johns, Iowa, where it con- nects with the Chicago & Northwestern R. R. »^ 40 Germf Twc Ws where too, is and sc do far Fro Va impro there ; elevat wish 1 tiou — the CO the fi! on the Th Vail south^ pleted The pile Saunc torn, 8 Cli Valle^ Pas furthe Al^ vin Si place, nei^h Wa count Wa near t count corn, wheal portic the tc other town groun Wahc the In here, want in an( Lea becon Waho miles. Wk prospi Val a hot€ Creek n > O w P^ O > o n o o > o C/5 o > D a> o OJ AND I^ACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 41 It is claimed this route is 33 miles shorter to Chicago than via Omaha, but we do not know of any through travel ever going by this line, and judge the local travel to be its sole support. The Fremont & Elkhorn Valley rail- road to the northward is completed to Wisner, about 50 miles, and trains are run- ning regularly. This road runs through a very rich and well cultivated country, where wheat yields as high as 30 bushels to the acre. Fremont is connected with the south side of the Platte by a wagon bridge that cost over $50,000. The Platte Kiver — We are now going up the Platte, and for jnany miles we shall pass closely along the north bank ; at other times, the course of the river can only be traced by the timber grov/ing on its banks. Broad plains are the principal features, skirted in places with low abrupt hills, which here, in this level country, rise to the dignity of "bluffs." It would never do to omit a description of this famous stream, up the banks of which so many - _^^^ emigrants toiled in the " Whoa, haw " times, from 1850 to the time when the railroad superseded the "prai- rie schooner." How many blows from the ox-whip have fallen on the sides of the pa- tient oxen as they toiled along, hauling the ponderous wag- ons of the freighters, or the lighter vehicles of the emi- grant! How often the sharp ring of the " popper " aroused the timid hare or graceful antelope, and frightened them away from their meal of waving grass! How many tremendous, jaw - breaking oaths fell from the lips of the "bull-whackers" during that period, we will not even guess at; but pious divines tell us that there is a Statisti- cian who has kept a record of all such expletives; to that authority we refer our readers who are fond of fig- ures. Once in a while, too, the traveler will catch a glimpse of a lone grave, marked by a rude head-board, on these plains ; and with the time and skill to decipher the old and time-stained hieroglyphics with which it is decorated, will learn that it marks the last resting-place of some emigrant or freighter, who, overcome by sickness, laid down here and gave up the fainting spirit to the care of Him who gave it ; or, per- chance, will learn that the tenant of this rentless house fell whi'e defending his wife and children from the savage Indians, who attacked the train in the gray dawn or darker night. There is a sad, brief his- tory connected with each told to the passer- by, mayhap in rude Imes, possibly hy the broken arrow or bow, rudely drawn on the mouldering head-board. However rude or rough the early emigrants may have been, it can never be charged to them tli:it they ever neglected a comrade. The sick were tenderly nursed, the dead decently buried, and their graves marked by men who had shared with them the perils of the trip. Those were djys, and these plains the place that tried men's mettle ; and here the Western frontiersman shone superior to al HIGH SCHOOL, OMAHA. 42 crofutt's new overland tourist others who ventured to cross the "vast desert," which stretched its unknown breadth between him and the land of his desires. Brave, cool and wary as the sav- age^ with his unerring rifle on his arm, he was more than a match for any red devil he might encounter. Patient under adversity, fertile in resources, he was an invalwible aid at all times; a true friend, and better foe. This type of people is fast passing away. The change wrought within the last few years has ro])bed the plains of its most at rtictive feature, to those who are far away from the scene— the emigrant train. Once, the south bank of the Platte was one broad thoroughfare, whereon the long trains of the emigrauts, with their white-covered wagons, could be seen stretching away for many miles in an almost unbroken cham. Now, on the north side of the same river, in almost full view of the "old emigrant load," the cars are bearing the freight and passengeis rapidly west- ward, while the oxen that used to toil so wearily along this route, have been trans- formed into '"western veal" to tickle the palates of those passengers, or else, like Tiny Tim, they have been compelled to "move on" to some new fields of labor. To give some idea of the great amount of freighting done on these plains we pre- sent a few figures, which were taken from the books of freighting films in Atchison, Kansas. In 1805, this place was the prin- cipal point on the Missouri River, from which freight was forwarded to the Great West, including Colorado, Utah, Montana, &c. There were loaded at this place, 4,480 wagons, drawn by 7,310 mules, and 29,720 oxen. To control and drive these trains, an army of 5,010 men was em- ployed. The freight taken by these trains amounted to 27,000 tons. Add to these authenticated accounts, the estimated busi- ness of the other shipping points, and the amount is somewhat astounding. Compe- tent authority estimated the amount of freights shipped during that season from Kansas City, Leavenworth, St. Joe, Omaha and Plattsmouth, as being fully equal, if not more than was shipped from Atchison, with a corresponding number of men, wagons, mules and oxen. Assuming these, estimates to be correct, we have this result : During 1805, there were employed in this business, 8,900 wagons, 14,020 mules, 59,- 440 cattle, and 1 1 ,220 men, who moved to its destination, 54,000 tons of freiglit. To accomplish this, the enormous sum of $7,- 289,800 was invested in teams and wagoiis, alone. But to return to the river, and leave facts and figures for something more interesting. "B^t," says ihe reader, "Ain't the Platte River a fact ?" Not much, for at times, after you pass above Julesburg, there is more fancy than fact in the streams. In 1803, teamsters were obliged to excavate pits in the sand of the river-bed before they could find water enough to water their stock. Again, although the main stream looks like a mighty river, broad and ma- jestic, it is as deceiving as the "make up" of a fashionable woman of to-day. Many places it looks broad and deep ; try it, and you will find that your feet touch the treacherous sand ere your instep is under water; another place, the water appears to be rippling along over a smooth bottom, close to the surface ; try that, and in you go, over your head in water, thick with yellowish sand. You don't like the Platte when you examine it in this manner. The channel is continually shifting, caused by the vast quantities of sand which are con- tinually floating down its muddy tide. The sand is very treacherous, too, and woe to the unlucky wight who attempts to cross this stream before he has become acquaint- ed with the fords. Indeed, he ought to be introduced to the river and all its branches before he undertakes the perilous task. In crossing the river in early times, should the wagons come to a stop, down they sank in the yielding quicksaijd, until they were so firmly imbedded that it required more than double the original force to pull them out ; and often they must be unloaded, to prevent the united teams from pulling them to pieces, while trying to lift the load and wagon from the sandy bed. The stream is generally very shallow during the fall and winter ; in many places no more than six or eight inches in depth, over the whole width of the stream. Nu- merous small islands, and some quite large, are seen while passing along, which will be noticed in their proper place. The Platte River has not done much for navigation, neither will it, yet it drains the waters of a vast scope of country, thereby rendering the immense valleys fertile; many thousand acres of which, during the past few years, have been taken up and successfully cultivated. The average width of the river, from where it empties into the Missouri to the AND PACIFIC COAST GTJIDE. 43 junction of the North and South Forks, is not far from three-fourths of a mile; its f^verage depth is six inches. In the months of September and October the river is at its lowest stage. The lands lying along this river are a portion of the land granted to the Union Pacific railroad, and the company are oflering liberal terms and great inducements to settlers. Much of the land is as fine agricultural and grazing land as can be found in any section of the Northwest. Should it be deemed necessary to irrigate these plains, as some are inclined to think is the case, there is plenty of fall in either fork, or in the main river, for the purpose, and during the months when irrigation is required, there is plenty of water for that purpose, coming from the melting snow on the mountains. Ditches could be led from either stream and over the plains at little expense. Many, however, claim that in ordinary seasons, irrigation is unnecessary. From Omaha to the Platte River, the course of the road is southerly, until it nears the river, when it turns to the west, forming, as it were, an immense elbow. Thence along the valley, following the river, it runs to Kearny, with a slight southerly depression of its westerly course ; but from thence to the North Platte it re- covers the lost ground, and at this point is nearly due west from Fremont, the first point where the road reaches the river That is as far as we will trace the course of the road at present. The first view of the Platte Valley is im- pressive, and should the traveler chance to behold it for the first time in the spring or early summer, it is then very beautiful ; should he behold it for the first time, when the heat of the summer's sun has parched the plains, it may not seem inviting; its beauty may be gone, but its majestic grand- eur still remains. The eye almost tires in searching for the boundary of this vast ex- panse, and longs to behold some rude moun- tain peak in the distance, as proof that the horizon is not the girdle that en- circles this valley. When one gazes on mountain peaks and dismal gorges, on foaming cataracts and mountain torrents, the mind is filled with awe and wonder, perhaps fear of Him who hath created these grand and sublime won- ders. On the other hand, these lovely plains and smiling valleys — clothed in verdure and decked with flowers — fill the mind with love and veneration for their Creator, leaving on the heart the impres- sion of a joy and beauty which shall last forever. Returning to Fremont — and the railroad — we proceed seven miles to Ames — formerly called Ketchum — only a side track. Near this station, and at other places along the road, the traveler will notice fields fenced with cotton wood hedge, which appears to thrive wonderful- ly. Eight miles further we reach IK^ortli Beild-rwhich is situated near the river bank, and surrounded by a fine agricultural country, where luxuriant crops of corn give evidence of the fertility of the soil. The place has matei'ially im- proved within the last few years and now has some fine stores, two hotels, a grain elevator, and about 75 dwellings and places of business, and a population of about 350. Young cottonwood groves have been set out in many places — good lences built, and altogether the town has a pro- gressive appearance. Leaving the station, for a few miles the railroad track is laid nearer the river's bank than at any point between Fremont and North Platte. Seven miles from here we arrive at Rogers — a new station, and appar- ently one of promise — 7 4-10 miles further is Schuyler— the county seat of Colfax county, containing about 800 inhabitants, and rapidly improving. It has five churches, two very good hotels, with court- house, jail, school-houses, many stores, a grain elevator, and several small. manu- factories. The bridge over the Platte River, two miles south, centres at this town a large amount of business from the south side of the river. From Schuyler it is 7 8-10 miles to Richland— formerly called Cooper — a small side-track station, from which it is eight miles to Cyolmubas — the county seat of Platte county — eight miles west of Richland, It contains about 2,000 inhabitants, has two banks, six churches, several schools, good hotels, and two weekly newspapers, — the Platte Journal and the Era. The Ham- mond io the principal hotel. Columbus — from its location in the midst of the finest agricultural lands in the Platte Valley, with the rich valley of the Loup on the north — has advantages that will, at no distant day, make it a city of many thousand inhabitants. 44 crofutt's new overland tourist George Francis Train called Columbus the geographical center of the United States, and advocated the removal of the National Capitol to this place. We have very little doubt, should George ever be elected President, he will carry out the idea, when we shall behold the Capital of the Union located on these broad plains— but we shall not buy corner lo:s on the strength of the removal. In July aad August, 1867, Columbus was a busy place, and the end of the track. Over "10,000,000 lbs. of Government corn and other freight was re-shipped from here to Fort Laramie, and the military- camps in the Powder River country. This was the first sliipment of freight over the Union Pacific railroad. •Numerous railroads to the north and south are projected from Columbus, and its future prospects are bright. Soon after leaving Columbus we cross Loup Fork on a fine bridge, constructed in the most substantial manner. This stream rises 75 miles northeast of North Platte City, and runs through a fine farming country until it unites with the Platte. Plenty of fish of various kinds are found in the stream, and its almost innumerable tributaries. These little streams water a section of country unsurpassed in fertility and agricultural resources. Game in abundance is found in the valley of the Loupe, consisting of deer, antelope, turkeys and prairie chickens, while the streams abound in ducks and geese. From Columbus it is 7 6-10 miles to Jackson — surrounded by well-culti- vated fields. Passing along, and just before reaching the next station, we cross a small stream called Silver Creek. From Jackson it is 10 1-10 miles to the next station — Silver Creek — This section of coun- try has improved very rapidly during the last few years, and we notice many sub- stantial evidences of thrift in every direc- tion — many new buildings. To the northeast of this station is situ- ated the Pawnee Indiim Reservation, but not visible from the cars. It covers a tract of country 15x30 miles in area, most of which is the best of land. About 2,000 acres are under cultivation. The tribe number about 2,000, are provided with an "Agen- cy" and all the usual accompanying "civ- ilization'" Again we speed westward, 7 ;>-10 miles to Clark's — a small station named in honor of the General Superintendent of the road. The surrounding country is remarkably rich in the chief wealth of a nation — agri- culture — and has made rapid progress. Of late years, several new stores, a church, school-house, and many dwellings have been added, indicating permanent pros- perity. From Clark's it is 11 2-10 miles to liOne Tree — the county seat of Mer- rick county. It contains a population of about 600, and is surrounded by thrifty farmers. The "old emigrant road" from Omaha to Colorado crosses the river op- posite this point, atthe old "Shinn's Ferry." A bridge is now contemplated, and will be found of great commercial advantage to the town. The more recent settlers of Lone Tree, call the place "Central City," in anticipa- tion of the early completion of the Ne- braska Central railroad to this place. Cottonwood trees have been planted by many of the settlers about their homes, which present a cheeiful and homelike ap- pearance. Passengers should notice the railroad track — for 40 miles it is constructed as straight as it is possible to build a road. When the sun is low in the horizon, at certain seasons of the year, the view is very fine. Rolling along 10 4-10 miles, and we ar- rive at Cliapiiiaii's — a small place, compris- ing a few buildings, near the station, but the country around about is a broad prai- rie, and nearly all improved and settled by thrifty farmers. From Chapman, we continue west 5 5-10 miles to IiOckivood.--a small side-track station. Six miles further and we are at our supper station, Oraiiatie River, a distance of 30 miles, affords the finest of grazing range, and large herds of cattle, and numerous bands of antelope can be seen while passing on up the valley. Ten miles more and we reach Colton— which is another new station, ten miles fi-om Lodge Pole. I'' was named in honor of Francis Colton, Esq., a former general passenger agent of the road, now President of the Farmers and Mechanics' Bank of Galesburg, 111. From Colton it is 7 7-10 miles to Sidney — named after the president of the road. This is a regular eating-station, where trains stop 30 minutes, those from the East, for breakfast, from the West for supper. Sidney is the county seat of Cheyecne county, Nebraska, and within the last few years has improved in buildings, and in- creased in population, until it now con- tains about 1,500 people. The "Lock- wood " house is one of the largest build- ings constructed, and where good fare is provided ; the cars stop nearly in front of the house. The principal outfitting store is owned by Mr. Chas. Moore, the pioneer ranch- man of the Old South Platte route — as well as of Sidney — but " Charley " talks j9<>or. Besides his $30,000 worth of goods, and other property, he onli/ has about 8,000 head of cattle and 3,000 sheep, — and by the way, Sidney is not much behind in the number of prosperous stock-men. There are scores of her citizens who own 500 head, many 5,000, several 15,000. With the great range belonging to the "Cattle King," — 1 1 iff, close on the south, on which graze 48,000 head. The Iliflt" Ranche is a huge one. It is about 150 miles in length, with an average width of 25 miles, commencing near Julesburg, and extending west along tiie Platte River to Fremont's Orchard, 60 miles northeast of Denver. The railroad company have a round- house of ten stalls, and a machine shop lo- cated here, besides an extensive freight ware-house, and depot building. The Black Hills business is one of great importance, a stage line da ly taking pas- sengers through to Dead wood, 267 miles, for $50 in winter and less in the summer. Freight in large quantities is shipped from AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 55 here, on wagons. It is claimed that this route is the shortest to the " Hills." The new bridge over the Korth Piatte, is one great feature of the route. For fare, see Annex No. 50. There is one newspaper published here, the I'elegraph, weekly, by J. B. Gossage & Co., who also have recently established a weekly at Rapid City, in the Black Hills, called the Black Hills Journal. The Government has established a mili- tary post at this station, and erected exten- sive barracks and warehouses. The post is on the south side of the track, a little to the east of the station. The old "PostTrader" at this place, Mr. James A. Moore, recently deceased, was an old pioneer, and the hero of the " Pony Express." June 8th, 1860, he made the most remarkable ride on record. Mr. Moore was at Midway stage station on the south side of the Platte, when a very important Government despatch ar- rived for the Pacific Coast. Mounting his pony, he left for Julesburg, 140 miles dis- tant, where, on arriving, he met an impor- tant despatch from the Pacific; resting only seven minutes., and, without eating., re- turned to Midway, making the "round trip" — 280 miles — in fourteen hours and forty-six minutes. The dc spat ch rt ached (Sacramento from St. Joseph, Mo., in eight days, nine hours and forty minutes From {Sidney it is 9 miles to ISroiviiiSOii — Passenger trains do not stop. The station was named after Col. Brownson, who was with the Union Pacific from the first, and a long time their gen- eral ft'eight agent. The valley along here is very narrow, with high rocky bluffs on each side. It is 9 9-10 miles further to Potter — Large quantities of wood and ties are usually stored here, which are ob- tained about 20 miles north of this point, on Lawrence Fork and Spring Canyon, tributaries of the North Platte lliver. Pot- ter, although not a large place, is situated FINGER ROCK, WEBER CANYON, UTAH 56 CROFXJTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST near a very large city, called Prairie Dog City — one of the larg- est cities on the whole line of the road. At this point, and for several miles up and down the valley, the dwellings of the prairie dogs frequently occur, but three miles west of the station they are found in large numbers, and there the great prairie dog city is situated. It occupies several hundred acres on each side of the road, where these sagacious little animals have taken land and established their dwellings without buying lots of the company. (We do not know whether Mr. Landcommis- sioner, intends to eject them or not,) Their dwellings consist of a litt e mound, with a hole in the top, from a foot to a toot and a half high, raised by the dirt excavated from their burrows. On the approach of a train, these animals can be seen scamper- ing for their houses; arrived there, they squat on their hams or stand on their hind feet, barking at the train as it passes. Should any one venture too near, down they go into their holes, and the city is silent as the city of the dead . It is said that the opening in the top leads to a subterranean chamber, connect- ing with the next dwelling, and so on through the settlement ; but this is a mis- take, as in most cases a few buckets of water will 'drown out any one ot them. The animal is of a sandy-brown color, and about the size ot a large gray squirrel. In their nest, living with the dog, may be found the owl and rattlesnake, though whether they are welcome visitors is quite uncertain. The prairie dog lives on grasses and roots, and is generally fat; and by many, espe- cially the Mexicans, considered good eating, the meat being sweet and tender, but rather greasy, unless thoroughly parboiled. Wolves prey on the little fellows, and they may often be seen sneaking and crawling near a town, where they may, by chance, pick up an unwary straggler. But the dogs are not easily caught, for some one is always looking out for danger, and on the first intimation of trouble, the alarm is given, and away they all scamper for their holes. CouRT-HousE Rock — About 40 miles due north from this station is the noted Court-House Rock, on the North Platte River. It is plainly visible for 50 miles up and down that stream. It has the appear- ance of a tremendous capitol building, seated on the apex of a pyramid. From the base of the spur of the blutis on which the white Court-House Rock is seated, to the top of the rock, must be nearly 2,000 feet. Court-House Rock to its top is about 200 feet. Old California emigrants will re- member the place and the many names, carved by ambitious climbers, in the soft sand-stone of which it is composed. Chimney Rock — is about 25 miles up the river from Court-House Rock. It is about 500 feet high and has the appear- ance of a tremendous, cone-shaped sand- stone column, rising directly from the plain. The elements have worn away the bluffs, leaving this harder portion standing. The next station is nine miles distant, calletl B e n n e 1 1 — named, possibly, after James Gordon Bennett, of the New York Herald^ but more likely after the agent of the Palace Car Co., on the Union Pacific road ; but neither are greatly honored, as jiassenger trains never stop, but roll on 9 2-10 miles further where they do stop, at Anteiope — It is situated at the low^er end of the Pine Bluffs, which at this point is near the station, on the left. This station is in the center of wdiat the plains-men call "the best grass country in the world," as well as one of the best points for antelope on the route. For article on stock-raising, see Annex No. 29. Six miles further and we come to A p B CO o CD P' td a >i QD P P P' P 5' CD c B Oq 8 o p p p' CD ^ miles down to the Platte River, where the train crosses it, and another half mile stops us at Denver — the capital, and great rail- road and commercial center of the State of Colorado. The population of this re- markable city is 20,000 ; an annual average increairc — commencing at 0, nineteen years ago — of over 1,000 people. Denver is the county seat of Arapaho county, fourteen miles east, in a direct line, from the base of the Rocky Moun- tains. It is situated in the valley of the South Platte River — on the eastern bank — AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 77 at a point where the rolling prairie land gradually slopes to the westward, facing the mountains at the junction of Cherry Creek, 5,224 feet above sea level. The mountains extend north and south as far as the eye can trace their rugged heights. The highest points, Long's Peak, to the north. Pike's Peak, to the south, and the " dome of the continent," Gray's, in the center, are in full view, towering far above the tops of the surrounding moun- tains. An open, rolling country surrounds the city, being the outer border of that im- mense plain which stretches away to the waters of the Missouri River, 600 miles to the eastward. Denver is built up prin- cipally with brick of the best quality, pro- duced near the city — and in point of rich- ness, beauty, and the style of its private residences, is not to be outdone by any city five times its age. The city has many fine brick business blocks, a United States mint, 20 church edifices, or places where regular public worship is held, eight banks, including three for savings ; secret orders are numer- ous, so much so, that there are no secrets any more— say what you like. Of flour- ing mills, there are five ; street car lines, several; breweries, three. The city is provided with water by means of a canal 15 miles long, w^hich con- ducts the water from the mouth of the Platte Canyon, to the southwest, over the high prairie to a reservoir above the city, from which, a portion of it, is made to flow through the streets of the city, and the parks and grounds of many of the citizens. The influence for good, of these little sparkling streams of pure mouatain water, and the long rows of shade trees that have been set out on each side of the streets, within the last five years— upon the health of the citizens, as well as the sanitary con- dition of the city, cannot be overestimated or described. Besides the above, Denver is well sup- plied with seminaries, schools, gas works. YO-SEMITE FALLS, 2,634 FEET FALL, YG-SEMITE VALLEY. 78 CROFUgrT S jSTEW overlaxd toukist four daily newspapers— the N&ws, Times, Tribune, and the Demoerat, each of which issue weeklies— together with eight or ten others, that are exclusively weekly, the principal of which are, the Rocky Moun- tain Herald, (who has not heard of Qo\(X- rick's Herald f) the Colorado Farmer, the Journal, and the Mirror. In fact, Denver is supplied with all the " modern improve- ments,'' including many big hotels, and more little hotels, but the principal ones are the Grand Central, the American, with its annex, the Inter-Ocean, and the Went- worth. What cannot be found in Denver, you need not hunt for in the West. The State Agricultural Society has 40 acres of ground adjoining Denver, where stalls, etc., have been erected for the ac- commodation of animals at the annual fairs. A half-mile race track is laid out and the buildings and the land enclosed with a concrete wall, the whole costing about $10,000. The Ford Park Association have a race track about two miles northeast of the city ; it is handsomely enclosed, and kept in good repair. On every afternoon the fast horses of Denver and their fast drivers can be seen enjoying the smooth track at 2 :40 speed. The Board of Trade was organized in , Denver in the fall of 1807, by the capital- ists and business men of the city, especially to build the Denver P'acitic railroad, which it aided to a great extent. The Board has taken the lead since, however, in all public enterprises, and has been one of the lead- ing instrumentalities in promoting the growth aiyl prosperity of the city. Narrow Gauge — The Jirst narrow gauge railroad in Colorado, was organized by the writer, and inc u'porated January 30, 1868. It was called : '' Tne Arapaho, Jefferson & South Park railroad." When this road was incorporated, there was not a foot of railroad track in Colorado, and not a shovel-full of dirt had been moved to construct one. The nearest lumber haid to be hauled on wagons, from 35 to 60 miles, and sold in Denver, from $50 to $100 per thousand feet. Wood had to be hauled over 25 miles, and at times sold as high as $80 per cord. Coal was hauled from 15 to 33 miles, and sold from $12 to $30 per ton. Just previous to the organization of the abpve company, the Denver Pacific Rail- road Co., had secured the bonds of Arapaho county to the amount of $500,000, in aid of their road, and were advertising for bids for 200,000 ties, and the Kansas Pacitic Company — claiming all timber within twenty-five miles of their line — had warned all persons against cutting ties within that limit, under penalty of the law. To build this " baby road " to the timber region, beyond the prescribed limits, and put in the 200,000 ties for the Denver Pacific, was the incentive which prompted the writer in attempting to build the Ara- paho, Jefferson & South Park railroad. The route was westward from Denver via Mt. Vernon Canyon, to Bergin town- ship, 30 miles ctistant. The route was duly surveyed and found satisfactory; the money and labor necessary was ready to complete the road in 90 days — conditional, however, on securing the tie contract. The ties could be purchased at the end of the road in the mountains, for 15 cents each with all down grade to Denver. Tlien it v as that a bid vs^as handed to the President of the " D. P.," offering to put in 200,000 ties for 50 cents each. This bid was immediately taken to Omaha, and the con- tract given to two of her citizens, at a price considerably more than double the amount: for which the narrow gauge company of- • fered to contract. ! On the return of the official from Omaha, ' the writer was told by the the?iFves\den.t of the Board of Trade, and a " director " of the Denver Pacific : "Crofutt, your bid was too low; if you had bid higher — at a price high enough for us all to make something — you could have had the contract." We immediately wilted. Previous to that time, we would have made an affidavit that every man, woman and child in Colorado was honest, and all working together for the common good. Well, time^ passed, the child died, the " boy " fled the country, and only after ten years, returns to record a little of the early history of " narrow gauge " in Col- orado. Earlier History — The first settlement where Denver now stands, was made Nov. 1st, 1858. Aurara, now West Denver, was laid out and named on the 4th, and on the 6th, there being 200 people present, an election was held, and H. J. Graham was elected a delegate to Congress, and in- structed to get the " Pike's Peak gold mines " set apart from Kansas as a separate Territory. On the 8th, Mr. Graham started for Washington on horseback. In December following, the town of St. AND PACIFIC COAST fiUIDE. 79 . Charles was laid out, where East Denver now stands. In the following spring, the town was sold, and the purchasers named the place Denver. On the 21st of April, 1859, the lirst printing press arrived in Aurara, and in 27 hours from its arrival, the first copy of the Rocky Mountain News was issued, with Wm. N. Byers and Thomas Gibson as editors and proprietors. May 7th, 1859, two " Pike's Peak " ex- press coaches arrived, 19 days from Leav- enworth. In July, 1860, the U. S. postofhce was first opened in Denver, previous to which it cost 25 cents to $1.00 for each letter, be- sides the U. S. postage, according to the amount of competition. Now, how changed! Railroads — The following roads have their termini in Denver: The Kansas Pn- ciflc, Denver Pacific, Colorado Central, Den- ver, South Park & Pacific and the Denver & Rio Grande. The Kansas Pacific Railway — was completed from the Missouri River in the fall of 1870, and trains run regularly. The depot IS on the east side of the Platte River, on the bottom land, a half-mile north of the city, where is also the depot of the Denver Pacific and the Denver & Rio Grande. From Denver, the course of the K. P. trains is down the Platte, along the table- land for a few miles, and then turns to the eastward, passing for 250 miles over a high "rolling prairie" adapted wholly to grazing purposes, except in small places where the road crosses Kiowa, AVolf and Comanche creeks, and the branches of Bijou Creek and in Bijou Basin; and as a stock country, a greater portion of this region has no superior. The Denver, South Park & Pacific Railroad — A narrow gauge road under this title was organized and surveyed in 1874. The line starts from Denver and fol- lows up the Platte River and Deer Creek, and enters the South Park within a dis- tance of about 65 miles, thence to the San Juan country, with Salt Lake as an ob- jective point. The line will traverse — within the first 100 miles — a country rich in gold, silver, coal, copper, and many other minerals; the finest and most extensive timber lands ; the salt region of the South Park, near where are the most valuable quarries of granite and lime ; through extensive graz- ing lands, where game is abundant and the scenery the most enchanting. In the spring of 1875, the road was com- pleted to Morrisons, 16 miles, and is now — March 1st, 1878 — being pusned ahead vig- orously through the canyons, and will be completed within a few months to a point in the South Park, 75 miles distant. We will now take a rijn down the Denver &, Rio Cwrande R.R. The General offices of this road are at Denver, Colorado, Gen'l. Wm. J. Palmek President. W. W. BoRST Superintendent. G. C. Dodge OenH Passenger Agent. This enterprise is the "pioneer, three-foot, narrow gauge freight and passe; ger rail- road of the world." Its objective point is El Paso and the " City of the Montezumas " — Mexico. The work of grading commenced in March 1871, and the first train reached Col- orado Springs October 27th, of the same year; distance, 76 miles. June 15th, 1872, the road was completed to Pueblo, 44 miles further. The branch to Canyon City — 40 miles — was completed in July, 1874, and the main line to El Mono, 86 miles south of Pueblo, in April, 1876. Work was commenced in May, 1876, on the line from Cucharas— over the Saugre de Christo Mountains, via Veta Pass, to Garland — 220 miles from Denver — and completed Au- gust 6th, 1877, making the total mileage of the road and branches 297 miles. The road is now being extended, and we learn, will be completed to the Rio Grande River, in the center of San Louis Valley — 60 miles distant from Garland — bj^ May, 1878, where a new town is being laid out, called "Almosa." Is the time far distant when the tourist will hear, on approaching the depot in Denver, " All aboard for Santa Fe, City of Mexico, Panama, and Cape Horn? " Quien sabef But we must away. The traveler making the first trip on a narrow-gauge road, will be surprised to find how com- fortable the cars are, and how smoothly they ride. Leaving Denver, the cars run along through the western edge of the city, cross Cherry Creek, which rises in the Arkansas Divide, 50 miles to the south, and canyons through Plum Creek Divide, 40 miles above the city, the road passing the com- pany's machine shops 2 2-10 miles distant on the right. The grand old mountain range looms up 80 crofutt's new overland tourist in the distance on our right ; the Platte River is, in places, close on the same side, while between the river and the moun- tains lies a stretch of fourteen miles of as beautiful rolling prairie land as one could wish to see. Four miles from Denver we pass the pi- oneer ranche of the country, on the right. The land which it embraces was taken up ia the spring of 1859, by Mr. Rufus Clark, who is commonly called by all old settlers "Potato Clark," from the fact that Mr. Clark was the first person in the country to raise a crop of potatoes. Having sold most of the crop at prices ranging from 20 to 35 cents per pound, after having cut oft' and saved the seed end of each to plant the next season, he come to make the potato crop a specialty, to a great extent, and in the years from 1860 to 1865, often had 250 acres of. potatoes, which yielded enor- mously. Mr. Clark is a man who always buys for cash, and sells for the best price i\ie market will afford, and although he has often been called close in exacting his due, no person ever questioned his sterling integrity. It was along the river, just above, where gold was first discovered on the Platte in 1859, but the "diggings" were not profitable and were abandoned. About one mile further. Bear Creek comes into the Platte, on the west side, its junction being marked by trees, houses and well-cultivated fields. Eight miles from Denver, we pass Petersburg — an unimportant side- track, and two miles further come to Littleton— This station is composed of a dozen or more buildings, surrounded by some fine farms and farm houses ; most of the latter are painted white, and the flow- ers and shrubbery surrounding them look as though there was a woman in the family. Passing on, the bluffs and ravines seem gradually to close in on our left, and we roll through numerous cuts, cross the canal that supplies Denver with water, pass AcEQUA — a side-track, and then Plum — another station only in name, opposite Platte Canyon. Our course is now to the southeast — up Plum Creek — which we shall follow for 25 miles. This is a rough and very little cultivated, ragged country, but well adapted to stock-raising, many vast herds of cattle appearing thereon. A few miles further, we pass, on the right, the site of the old Fisher mill of 1860. Opposite this mill, comes down the old Plum Creek Rivide wagon-road, which left the railroad six miles south of Denver on the Platte, turning up over the ridge, via the " Pretty Woman's Ranche," of 1860-3, situated at a spring on the southern slope of the Divide, five miles distant. Continuing along, we pass, on the right, Fisher Ranche, and then come to Castle Rock Station— 32 8-10 miles from Denver, so named for a huge castella- ted rock tuat stands away up on the apex of a spur of the Divide, that here projects out into the valley, as though to bar our way. At Castle Rock there is a settlement of about 50 people. Some of the bot tom land along the creek is cultivated, and some to the eastward, up a little valley, but the greater portion depend upon stock raising. The road from this station turns to the south 2 6-10 miles to Douglass — a side-track, and a rugged country, with very little land fit for cultiva- ting, then 3 2-10 miles to Glade — another side-track. It is 3 9-10 miles from here to HuNTSviLLE — This station was named after Ex-Governor Hunt, of Colorado, one of the earliest promoters of the road. In rolling along up the valley we have passed the " Old Mother Coberly Ranche," on the opposite side of the valley. A short distance further, the site of an old saw- mill appears, and a little further, near this station the old "Block House," built in June, 1874, for protection against the Indians. At that time about 560 people lived near by, engaged in lumbering and freighting. Ivan Cracken, the first country residence of the writer, in i860, is situated due east from this station, four miles distant, at the head of Cherry Creek Canyon. This domi- cile was constructed at the time " the rocks were rent," and it is thought there has been little change in the premises during the last 1800 years. From our last station the countnr has been very bluffy ; on the left covered with some pine and scrub oak trees. Eight miles further brings us to Larkspur — but we will not see the " lark " or the " spur," unless the latter is a "cowboy," and the "cattle on a thousand hills," are larks; but one thin^ is certain, when the cattle get on a lark it requires a great deal of spur to overtake them. We are now opposite Irving Valley, AI^D PACIFIC COA.ST GUIDE. 81 three miles distant to the eastward, on the headwaters of Cherry Creek. This is a lovel}" little valley about six miles long, and a half-mile wide, first settled in 1800, completely over-run by Indians in 1864, and some of the settlers killed ; and was raided by Indians, at various times since, until 1870. Our train is now climbing the Divide, on a heavy grade ; the air is pure and clear, the country is rough and broken, with here and there a little opening; the huge mountains rise high on the right, but their base is five miles away, and the long timber-marked water-shed that divides the waters of the PJatte trom the Arkansas Valley, stretches away to the east, and is lost in the distance, extending 100 miles. The next station — on paper — is 3 8-10 miles further on, and is called Greenland — but trains seldom stop here. A side-track is its chief feature of civiliza- tion, but 5 3-8 miles further T.e arrive at the Divide — Here is a postoffice, called Weissport. A few miles before reaching the station, on the right, can be seen a long, rocky, castellated ridge, like which many are to be seen along the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains, Before reaching the station, when looking ahead, the prospect of getting beyond the mountain ridge, which rises up, as though to bar our progress, is hopeless — appar- ently — but remembering that it was this company that built their road over the Sangre de Christo Mountains, we are con- vinced that with them, " all things are possible" (in railroad building). In proof of this w^e climb to the Divide, turn to the left, from a sharp mountain spur ; and roll down toward the great Arkansas Valley. . Our course is now more to the eastward, with the Valley of Monuments and Mon- ument Creek on the right, and ahead — al- most at our feet — Pike's Peak. Monument — is the next station, 5 3-10 miles from the Divide. The mountains, far to the right, show droppings of red sandstone, rising slab-like froni its side several hundred feet in height. At Monument there is quite a settlement of agriculturists, stock, and lumbermen. The village is near the site of the " Dirty Woman's Ranche," of 1860. Downward rolls our train 2 4-10 miles to Borst's — named for the superintendent of the road. Trains stop on signal. Cattle ranges appear; long timber ridges are seen on the left, the same above noted. It is 3 6-10 miles more to HusTEDS — another signal station. Passing on through a timbered and rugged country, blufly and wild, crossing Monument Creek several times in five miles, and we come to Edgerton — where are piles of lumber, indicating saw mills near. Continuing down the creek, cattle and sheep are numerous, and a few fields and gardens appear. Occasionally on the right we catch a glimpse of some of those pe- culiar rocks, which rise up in places, in this vicinity, on the sides of the hills, to the height of from 20 to 50 feet. These are round, and from 3 to 10 feet in diame- ter, surmounted with a cap, in one case resembling a Spanish sombrero. They are called by various names, but by the gen- eral name of "Monuments," from which this valley and creek derive their names. From Edgerton, it is 8 2-10 miles to Colorado Springs — and 76 miles from Denver, This city was laid out in July, 1871, and settled by the Fountain Colony. It is situated on a high, broad plateau, to the east of, and about one-half mile above the junction of Mountain Creek from the north, with the Fountain Qui Bouille, from the west. This thriving place is the county seat of El Paso county, and contains — the city proper — a popula- tion of about 2,500, with three miles sur- roundings, giving about 3,500. The citizens have erected some fine buildings, which include a college, churches, banks, schools, hotels, and many private residences. The streets are 100 feet broad, and the avenues 150 feet in width, with sidewalks 12 feet wide. Along the avenues rows of trees have been set out near the sidewalks, arid little streams of water are rippling along beside them, from the large canals built by the citizens for irrigating purposes. There are several hotels in the city, chief of which are the Crawford and the Colo- rado Springs Hotel. Two papers, the Gazette and the Mountameer, greet the citi- zens weekly. The principal mercantile business of the city is with the mining region of the South Park and San Juan country, via the Ute Pass wagon-road, which leaves the city for the West, and proceeds up Fountain Creek and over the mountains to the north and west of Pike's Peak, Colorado Springs has become quite 82 crofutt's new ovekland tourist noted as a tourist's resort. The fine ac- commodations, magnificent mountain views, the soda springs, the Garden of the Gods, the petrified stumps, the monu- ment towers, and the ramble around and up the mountains— even to the summit of the towering old Pike's Peak, with an altitude of over 14,000 feet— all this unsurpassed scenery can be viewed, and visited with convenience from the hotel, as carriages are run at stated intervals to Manitou, and other points. We will step in to one and note what can be seen. Colorado City — is situated two miles west, over a fine road, at the oase of Pike's Peak. It was the first settlement in the " Pike's Peak gold mines," in 1858. At one time it had a population of 300, now 100. The Fountain Qui Bouille, a small stream formed from springs and melted snows around the base and upon the sum- mits of the mountain, supplies the town with water, and is also used for irrigating purposes, for many miles below. Garden of the Gods — A bout two miles west is a singularly wild and beautiful place, to which some poetic individual has given the title which heads this paragraph. Two high ridges of rock rise perpendicu- larly from the valley to a height of 200 feet or more, but a few yards apart, forming a lofty enclosure, which embraces a beautiful miniature valley, which seems to nestle here away from the gaze of the passer-by in quiet romantic grandeur. For illustra- tion, see Annex No. 14. Manitou — elevation, 6,321 feet. These famous springs are situated five miles west of Colorado Springs, the city, at the very foot of Pike's Peak, on the north side, in as romantic a little nook as one can conceive. They are six in number, named: Manitou, Navajo, Ute-Soda, Sho- shone, Iron Ute, and Little Chief. Prof. Loew, of Lieut. Wheeler's exploring ex- pedition, gives the analyses of the different springs as follows : UOH CD CD a tr- et! p *o to o O o c CD P c-f- CO c: (— ^ o c;? L_i to CD O p ~>~ po 'o or 'OO I— ^ o CO CO . o o GO h- ^ CO 00 OiOCrJGCCOOOO o o ' o , CD o o p p CD Ct! c o p CC o'er a- o o o o o P P P t2 P ^ p p 53 p <^^ r-^ 0 to I— 1 O I— ' CJ P M- h-i 9= O CO to 2 CD •_ • CD • CO 60 • CO rf;^. •-S hJ^g to h-i Cl o 2 i^ CD • )^^ • oc o OO to 2 to -^ CI CD • • • • t-A O I— 1 to OO to 5? QC OC^ 2 GO CD • Or • GO o o •-S coco t-i O? g Oi t0i-ip;-30trfi.0g O Ci br GO O ^ br O • CO COCOCii-'OOCihfi- hti. to CO 00 to CO O JO • to -Ci GO' rfi- O 1-^ O to -^ h- 1 Ci I Oi o CO to to H-^ CO O ^Ji' c; rf^ to Oi o: o *- CO < > O O h. H o w !iS O o o o o o o p CC C P p CD p •-! CD o o p r-t- P P CD 5- W p- ^ O These springs are highly recommended for their medicinal qualities. The early emigrants of 1859-60 often used the waters of the Navajoe Spring for making bread ; by the addition of a little acid it makes a very fine article. Manitou — in the summer, is a busy town, of 1,000 or more people — all bent on FIRST steam railroad train IN AMERICA — Scc Annex No. 7' AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 83 that their heart's enjoyment. Fountain Creek ripples through the place, along the Ijanks of which are many trees — cottonwoocl, pine, cedar and willow. Cosey little cottages peep out here and there from among the trees, rocks, and gulches, as though afraid their secluded retreat would be discovered. There are three large hotels at Manitou — besides several small ones. The Beebe can accommodate 200 guests; the Cliff, 100 ; while the Manitou House — open sum- mer and winter, and the pleasantest in point of location — has ample accommo- dations for full 250 guests. From Manitou, the distance to the fol- lowing places are : Garden of the Gods, 3 1-2 miles ; Glen Eyrie, Queen's Canyon, to Devil's Punch-Bowl, 5 1-2 miles ; to Cheyenne Canyon and Seven Falls, ten miles; Summit of Pike's Peak, nearest trail, ten miles; Monument Park, with Mammoth Anvil, Dutch Wedding, Vul- can's Workshop and Dunce's Parliament, ten miles; Ruxton's Glen, Iron Spring and Ute Pass, 1 1-2 miles ; To Billy Goat Canyon the distance is 1 1-2 miles. Those who wish to hunt game as is game, will find fondest desire in that direction can be grati- fied in this region. We now return to the railroad at Colo- rado Springs, and pro- ceedto the south. Half- -a-mile south we come to Fountain Qui Bouil- le Creek, where our course changes to the eastward, and follows along down its north- ern bank. In places the blufis are close on our left — and then some well - cultivated fields appear on either hand. The old Military wagon road — via Jim's Camp — Squirrel Creek Divide, Russellville on Cherry Creek, to Den- ver — branches off to the north just before reaching the next sta- tion. WiDEFlELD — 8 8-10 miles from Colorado Springs. The fields here are wider than we have seen before, and better fenced, some with wire. Passing on 4 G-10 miles, we come to Fountain — here the sage and brush land shows the eflects of irrigation. The town is a few hundred yards to our right, contains about 30 places of business and residences, situated on an elevated table- land, most of which is under cultivation. Between the railroad and the mountains on the west, is spread out as fine a grazing section of land as there is in the State, ex- tending southward 100 miles along the eastern base of the mountains, and from five to 15 miles in width. The old wagon road from Colorado City runs along the foot of these mountains to Canyon City, 25 miles distant Continuing down, the sand- bluffs close in on the left, and our train rolls down on to the creek bottom, where the cotton- woods and willows are very dense, and after crossing the creek, we stop at Little Buttes — Xear this station. Lit- tle Fountain Creek comes in from the west, upon which is some fine farming land, which produced abundant crops— never failing a crop. devil's gate, WEBER CANYON, U. P R. R. 84 ckofutt's new overland tourist The country for the next twenty miles is not much improved, as it cannot be de- pended upon for crops without irrigating them, and as water is not to be had, unless wells are dug and wind mills used for ele- vating the water, it will doubtless remain as it is — a stock range. From Little Buttes, it is 11 5-10 miles to PiNON — a side-track, and 11 7-10 miles further to North Pueblo — but passenger trains seldom stop, as the town lays nearer South Pueblo station than the one bearing its name. On the east side of the Fountain is situ- ated East Pueblo, reached by a bridge on our left. From North Pueblo station, our route is along the creek, through deep cuts made through a round butte, that seems to rise up in our way, cross the track of the Atch- ison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad, and the Arkansas River, and a run from the last station ot 2 5-10 miles brings the train to South Pueblo — This is a regular eating station, where a full meal can be had for 75 cents. As North Pueblo and South Pueblo are really one city, separated only by the Ar- kansas River, we shall speak of them as Pueblo — This city is located in the rich Arkansas valley, on the Arkansas River, near its junction with the Fountain Qui Bouille, and contains about 4,000 inhabi- tants. It is the county seat of Pueblo county, and besides the Denver & Rio Grande, is connected by rail with Canyon City, 43 miles to the west, up the Arkansas River, and all the Eastern world, via Atch- ison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad, down the Arkansas. The county buildings are the best in the State; the schools are good; church ac- commodations ample. Pueblo has four banks, smelting works, a planing mill, rolling mill, foundry and machine shop, two flouring mills, several hotels, and one daily newspaper — the Chieftain. The business of the city is, to a great ex- tent, connected with the mining business to the west and south — San Juan, South Park and the Cinmerron regions. Agriculture — along the Arkansas River and the adjacent streams — is very profitable, as the yield per acre of all kinds of small grains and veg- etables, is abundant ; but above all others, stock raising is the most extensive. As a range for cattle and sheep, Pueblo and the adjoining counties, when the mild winters. light snow fall, and rich and nutritious bunch grass are considered, are par ex- cellent. The fine water-power available, and these broad, fertile plains and productive up- lands, on which roam so many thousand sheep, point to the probable fact that woolen manufactories will soon be estab- lished here. There is certainly a fine op- portunity and a home market. The Arkansas Valley Division of the Denver and Rio Grande railroad, runs from South Pueblo, along up on the south side of the Arkansas River, where the country traversed is almost wholly given up to grazing purposes. The stations, and distances between them, are: Goodnight, 4 4-10 miles from Pueblo; Meadows, 4 6-10 miles further; Swallows, five miles; Carlisle Springs, 6 5-10 miles ; Beaver Creek, 2 7-10 miles ; Laban, 9 2-10 miles ; and Coal Junction, 6-10 miles further ; making 33 miles from South Pueblo. From the Coal Junction — a track branches off to the coal banks, two miles distant, while the main track continues on 7 5-10 miles further to Canyon City — 40)^ miles from Pueblo. This city is the county seat of Fremont county, situated at the very gate of the mountains, in a lovely and productive little valley, and possesses some of the most at- tractive scenery in Colorado. From (Jan- yon, it is about 12 miles to the " Grand Canyon of the Arkansas," the towering walls of which rise in places perpendicular, 2,000 feet, between which runs the Arkan- sas River. Here is a grand view, that can be reached from the city, over a good wagon road, through some magnificent changing scenery. Canyon, not to be out- done, has secured a first-class hot spring, which has been " picketed out," about one mile from the city. The baths are excellent. The first settlement was made at Canyon City, in the summer of 1859, and in 1860-1 some good stone buildings were erected, and a great amount of freight from the Missouri River, destined ff)r Tarryall, Cali- fornia Gulch and the Blue, came up the Arkansas route, and went into the moun- tains, via Canyon City. Then it was that prospects were bright for a big city at Canyon, and corner lots advanced, but the mines — being all "placer mines" at that time — became worked out, and Canyon declined. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 85 INTERIOR VIEW OF SNOW SHEDS ON THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS. Since the discovery of the San Juan country tlie city has taken a step ahead, and is now provided with banks, many large stores, churches, schools hotels, and sundry other accomplishments, including the State Penitentiary, and two weekly newspapers — the Times and the Avalanche. Stages leave Canyon City daily for Fair- play, distant 75 miles ; Saguache, 100 miles ; Del Norte, 125 miles; Lake City, 200 miles. Returning to Pueblo, we are again off for the south. Gradually we rise up out of the rirer bottom, and shape our course for the Span- ish Peaks, which we can see while 70 miles away. San Carlos — is the first station on the bills, but they all " pass it " and make for the GrREENHORN — The first named is nine miles from Pueblo, and the second is 4 5-10 further. St. Charles Creek has been crossed, also a broad prairie on which graze thousands of cattle and sheep. The timbered country of the Greenhorn River is on the right, and soon our train crosses the river and stops at Salt Creek— a side-track. To the right are some bold, high buttes; the high- est is called "Chinese Butte." Six miles further is the small side-track called Graneros— but we do not stop. Between our train and the mountains can be seen the great valley of the Green- horn, with the mountains of the same name rising from its western border. The next station is ten miles distant, and is called Huerfano — (pronounced Warf-a-no) This station is in the midst of the best 2:razing lands of Southern Colorado. Leaving the station, we cross the river, and cross a high, undulating prairie— bluffy in places — for 13 miles to CucHARA — (pronounced Q-charr-us) 86 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST This station is the junction of the El Moro Branch, 49 miles south of Pueblo, 169 miles from Denver, 37 miles from El Moro and 100 miles from Garland. Let us now "change cars" and, while taking a run, note the results. Crossing the Cuchara River, and on, over a broad prairie — with the Spanish Peaks on our right — 10 6-10 miles bring us to Santa Clara — on the creek of that name. Just 9 4-10 miles further is Apishapa — a small side-track on the river of the same name. Then, over a broad plain, 9 4-10 miles, is Chicosa — and 7 3-10 miles more bring us to El Moro— the end of the track. This place is one destined to be a point of great importance. It is situated on a plain near the eastern base of the Raton Mountains, and although the town was laid out in the spring of 1876, it now has a population of over 700, and is doing a large and rapidly increasing business. The forwarding of goods for the southern country is one that centers a large amount of business at this new town ; and stores, hotels, restaurants and shops of all kinds are springing up daily. A bank has been established, and a newspaper soon will be. Near the town is located extensive coal mines. One vein that is now being worked is a horizontal 14-foot vein, so situ- ated that cars are run to the mouth of the mine and the coal is dumped, by a shute, into the cars. One great feature of this coal is its adaptability for coking. The railroad hauled away from El Moro during the year 1877, 700 tons of coke; some was shipped as far as Salt Lake City, to be used in the smelting of ores, but 1,he greater portion was taken to the furnaces at Black Hawk, Golden and Boulder. There are now in operation 32 coking ovens — and still the demand exceeds the supply. •Prof. Gardner, of the U. S. Geological Survey, made a number of careful experi- ments with this coal in 1875, and as a re- sult of his tests in reverberatory furnaces, he says : " In a few minutes both furnaces were en- veloped in a sheet of burning gases, that went roaring up the flues. Heat became so intense that the ores had to be pulled back to the chimneys, for that left near the bridge melted down and ran like water. The flame and great heating power were now too evident to be mistaken." El Moro is 86 miles from Pueblo, 206 miles from Denver, five miles north of Trinidad, 65 miles to Cimerron, 105 miles to Fort Union, 150 miles to Las Vegas, and 205 mdes to Santa Fe. Stages run daily to the last four named places ; fare averages 15 cents per mile. Trinidad — the county seat of Las Ani- mas county — is five miles south of El Moro, and is an old settled place; the greater proportion of the people are of Spanish or Mexican descent ; stock rais- ing is the principal source of income. Coal mines are extensive— but until a rail- road is built to the town the demand can- not extend beyond home consumption. Returning to Cuchara, " change cars," and we are oft' again — this time up the west bank of Cuchara River. Walsens — is the first station — 6 7-10 miles from Cuchara. It is tastefullj' laid out — having been settled by a colony of Germans, who are engaged in agriculture and stock raising. From this the grade will be heavy, until we reach the summit of the mountain. In passing along up the creek, it will be observed that all the settlers are Mex- icans or Spanish, and they observe all the old customs of Spanish countries, particu- larly in their cultivation of the soil. They ignore the usual implements of husbandry to a great extent. They tickle the ground with a wooden plow ; cut their grain with hand knives; thrash it out with goats, clean in the wind by dropping it to the ground from an elevated position when the wind is blowing. Then when the grain is gathered and cleaned it is pounded to a powder between large flat stones. Goats and sheep are their stock in trade. Their houses are of adobe, or, at best, logs — and the number of children is only equaled by the number of dogs ; but all seem happy, and we are inclined to say with the poet : '' Rustic ease and true content Are in this valley sweetly blent — And comfort smilee, and plenty reigns ; Here peace has undisturbed domains; And here a rural, peaceful race Has found a fair abiding place; Its homes and plazas, simple, rude, The walls of stately pine trees hewed, Or rough adobes, crude y piled, The roofs with " dirt" securely tiled, Are primitive, and Cdol and warm, Secure against the winter's t-torm, And 'gainst the sun's devouring rays When with the summer's heat ablaze." [I'here^ that is the first poetry I ever AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 87 quoted in my life, and if the reader will excuse me this time, I will swear never to be caught doing so again.] Wahatoya — is the next station, and a very appro- \ priate one it is. It IS 6 9-10 miles south of Walsens, To the left, after leaving the station, a beautiful view can be had of the Spanish Peaks. The altitude of the east peak is 12,720 feet; that of the west peak is 13,620 feet. Con- tinuing a little far- ther, we have a line view of Veta and the Sangre de Cliris- to Mountains on the right. From the last station it is 8 2-10 miles to LaVeta— The first settler in this sec- OVERLAND pony express — SEE ANNEX NO. Xl. tion of country was Gol. Francisco, a Span- ish gentleman who came to La Veta 19 years ago, and built the house that he now lives in. La Veta is situated at an elevation of 6,970 feet, on the south branch of Cuchara Creek, at the northern base of the moun- tains, w.th the Spanish or "Twin Peaks" as immediate back-ground. The popula- tion is about 300. It boasts of some good buildings — a postoffice, a grist mill, and, if reports are true, good prospects for the future, as well as gr»flt present expecta- tions. It is reported that a silver mine has been discovered near, producing ore that mills $118 per ton; 100 claims have been staked ; copper is also a late discovery, and coal seven miles west, on Middle Creek, and White Sulphur Springs, five miles south. At La Veta all extra cars are left behind, an extra locomotive is added, and the train starts out on an average grade of 211 feet to the mile, for 21 1-2 miles- In some places the grade is much higher, but the passenger need not fear, as the road is well built, the ties are close together and double spiked — the engines and cars flrst-class, while the road-bed is blasted from the mountain side, making it as solid as the everlasting hills upon which it rests. Leaving La Veta, our course is almost due w^est, winding up Middle Creek, and then on to a high plateau and up Veta Creek. As the train leaves the station at La Veta, the old Sangre de Christo wagon road, — stage road — can be seen on the left, where it winds around the side of the mountain. Continuing on up the creek, eight miles from the station, we arrive at Ojo — At this side-track, by lookiner di- rectly ahead, away up on the top of a round flat-topped mountain — called "Dump" Mountain apparently some great for- tress — can be seen a lone tree in the center. Now, notice the long reddish line encircling that mountain near its top. Do you see it? That is our road, and there, in front of that low tree, we will be in half an hour, looking down at this station. Again we proceed. Look! on your right, away up — there! That peak is Veta Mountain, 11,512 feet above the level of the sea. Up ! up M^e go ! Keep your eye 88 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST to the left ! See ! There is the road— can we ever get up there ? We are turning. The gorge narrows and darkens for 2 8-10 miles, and we are at the great Mule Shoe — We have run up on one side of the "shoe," now we will turn to the left and roll around the toe of the shoe, and around on the other side. Now we look down on our left, and the higher we go, the grander the view. Onward — upward. Ah, we have it! Now look away down that little, narrow valley, and see little OJo station, where we stood only a few minutes ago, and looked '^^2?— looked at the tree first — then located our present position. Stop a moment and take a look around. The illustration on page 47 shows our train in Abata Canyon, going up to the Mule Shoe from Ojo and then curving around and nearing the summit of "Dump" Mountain. " Old Veta," just to the north, across the chasm, has " come down a peg" — is not as high. The Spanish Peaks, now look low — *' be- neath ournotice.^' Hist! but isn't the air pure? Before leaving this point, let us take another look around. To the east- ward, Ojo ; further, La Veta ; a little to the right, the Spanish Peaks ; then a sweep around to the left a little, the broad plains, stretching away in the dim haze of the dis- tance ; to the north, an awful chasm, 740 feet deep ; then Veta Mountain rises up, and bars our vision. To the westward an occasional mountain peak peeps out above the growth of pines in the foreground, while all around us are pine and spruce in the ravines, and away up the mountain to the " timber line, usually about 10,000 feet, above which they stand uncovered, before their Maker — except, possibly, by a mantle of purity — the frost of winter. But we have not had a look to the south, and must climb higher, first. Our course is now to the right, and fol- lows around the mountain to the south — up, around the head of a deep ravine, to the left ; up again, we curve around the head of another, and then another — ever upward — but the chasms and ravines are decreasing. Another turn, and we are at the Summit of Veta Pass — 9,339 feet above the level of the sea; 1,097 feet higher than any other railroad track in North America — the second in height in the world. The weight of the engine that hauled our train up this mountain is 34 tons. This station is situated in a grove of timber which obstructs the view, to a great extent ; but those who have the tipae to stop, could take a walk along the sum- mit to the eastward, about one mile, where the best view can be obtained. The canyon up which our train came, to the turn of the Mule Shoe, is called Abata Canyon, and the old wagon road which we crossed over on a bridge, at the curve, was the "Abata & Sangre de Christo " toll road. The only building on the Summit is the station, which is built of stone. Leaving the Summit, our train will de- scend on the south for seven miles, on as heavy grade as when climbing up the northern slope. On the route down the mountain to Gar- land, 15 miles, there is little of interest. There are several saw mills, and timber on each side of a long ravine, down which our train rolls, passing the following side- tracks ; 1 9-10 miles to Sangre de Christo ; 5 1-10 miles further to Placer ; 3 9-10 miles more to Wagon Creek ; and 3 5-10 additional to Garland — This station is only an im- portant one while it is the end of the track: when the road is extended Gar- land will evaporate. Now, March 1st, 1878, it has a population of 1,500, some good stocks of goods in town, numerous hotels and restaurants, saloons and "va- rieties" — not enough figures. The Pratt is the principal hotel. Stages leave daily for Castilla, 40 miles ; Taos, 88 miles ; also to Del Norte, 67 miles, fare $10 ; Lake City, 155 miles, fare $25 ; Santa Fe, 155 miles,fare $30 — fare less on through tickets. An immense amount of freight is shipped on wagons from Gar- land to the mining region to the west and south. We will now return to Denver, and take our seat in the cars on the Denver Pacific Railroad. This road is now owned and operated by the Kansas Pacific Railroad Company. In the fall of 1867, this company was organized at Denver City, Colo- rado, the object of which was to connect the city by rail and telegraph lines with the Union Pacific railroad at Cheyenne. The distance to be overcome was 106 miles, through a coun- try possessing no serious obstacles, and many favorable inducements to the enter- prise. For a part ot the way, the country I 88 to the we ev The g miles, Mui side oi left an aroun( down the gr; Ah, w that li station ago, ai — then Stof The i train Mule aroun* Moun across — isn< The neatJi • pure ? take a ward, right, aroum stretcl tance ; feet d and b occasi the g while the ra the "1 above their I of pur But south. Oui lows up, ar the le head « upwai decree the Su^ the le- any o' —the The our tr Thi STEAMBOAT ROCK, ECK s YON, UTAH, U.P.R.R. (See Annex No. 19,) (6.) AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 89 along and for some distance on either side of the line is a rich farming section, the remainder of the road being through cele- brated grazing lands. The desire to open up this rich region, to connect the city of Denver with tue trans-continental railroad, by which to afibrd a way for cheap and fast freight and rapid transit of passengers, induced the people of Colorado to take hold of the scheme, when proposed, with commendable zeal and alacrity. Sub- scriptions for about one-fourth the amount of money required were made in a few days, and the county bonds of Arapaho county were almost unanimously voted to the amount of $500,000, and work com- menced. The road was completed to Evans early in the fall of 1869, and to Denver the 24th day of June, 1870. During the spring of 1872, this road was sold to the Kansas Pacific Railroad Com- pany, which enables that company to con- trol a through line from Kansas City, Mo., to Cheyenne. Distance, 743 miles, where a junction is made with the Union Pacific railroad. Leaving Denver, our course is north- ward, along down the east bank of the Platte River, for 18 miles, to Hughes — The country is almost wholly given up to grazing — except on the low bottom land, and at such places where water can be had for irrigating. At Hughes, the Boulder Valley railroad — previously alluded to — branches off to the westward, Johnson — is the next station from Hughes, 14 miles distant, and 16 miles far- ther brings us to Evans — the county seat of Weld coun- ty. This is the headquarters of the St. Louis Western colony and the New Eng- land colony; population about 900. The Journal, a weekly paper, is published here. Evans is fully provided with churches, schools and most of the modern improve- ments. Soon after leaving Evans we cross the Platte River, and four miles farther come to Greeley — This town was laid out in May, 1870, by the Greeley colony, under the fostering care of the late Hon. Horace Greeley, of the New York Tribune. The col- ony control about 100,000 acres of as fine land as can be found in the Territory. Extensive irrigating ditches have been "taken out," and water from the Cache a la Poudre River furnishes ample water for all pur- poses. This town has increased rapidly; population nearly 2,000, with ample churches, hotels, schools, etc. The Gree- ley Tribune and the 8un, weeklies, are published here. One noted and glorious feature of the place is the absence of all intoxicating drink. It's tough on the " old soakers," who now have to "pack in" their "nips " on the sly, or be sick and get a doctor to give a prescription ; but it is said that Greeley abounds in doctors and druggists. Leaving Greeley, we cross the valley of the Cache a la Poudre and follow up Lone Tree Creek, 14 miles, to Pierce — situated in the midst of the best grazing lands. From here, it is 20 miles to Cass— This is a mere side track, at the upper crossing of Lone Tree; then ten miles brings us to the Summit— a side-track — on the top of the ridge, ten miles from Cheyenne — which we reach after crossing Crow Creek — a distance from Denver to Cheyenne of 106 miles. With this sketch of Colorado, short and imperfect, because it is impossible to do justice to this country, we take our leave of it, and returning to start once more for the West. Clieyeiine — Just in the border of the city, we cross Crow Creek, on a Howe truss bridge — one of the best on the road. We leave the creek and follow up the bed of a small dry ravine. About two miles from the city — by looking to the right, northward — a fine view can be had of Fort Davy Russell, previously described. We are now ascending the eastern slope of the southern range, of the Black Hills of Wy- oming, which are stretching away in a long rugged line before us. Hazard — six miles west of Cheyenne, is the first station we reach, and the j unc- tion of the Colorado Central railroad. The track turns off at the left of the sta- tion, and crosses the prairie and hills to the southward — as described on our route to Colorado. At Hazard, the traveler going East, can obtain a view of Cheyenne and Fort Davy Russell — the former directly ahead, and the latter a little to the left of his train. Otto — is 8 2-10 miles farther west, where passenger trains from the East and West usually meet, stop for a few moments, to exchange letters and papers, then pass on 90 ckofutt's new overland tourist — one going East for light, the other West for knowledge. We are now 6,724 feet above the sea, and the traveler should note the rapid rise made from this point, in surmounting the Black Hills. Here the heavy grading commences, and snow fences will be nu- merous till we get over the "Hills." To the north of this place, at the base of the Hills, is a tine valley, where Crow Creek finds its source in many fine springs. The valley contains very superior grazing land, and in conjunction with the adja- cent hills, affords ample game for the hunter. Fifteen miles from this station, to the north, at the eastern entrance of Cheyenne Pass, is the site of old Fort Walbach, now deserted. Near this fort are the head waters of Lodge Pole Creek. Grranite Canyon — is five miles west of Otto, and 574 feet higher. At this point are extensive stone quarries, whence was taken the rock for the company's build- ings in Cheyenne, also for the stone ware- houses. Limestone abounds in this vicin- ity, and many kilns have been erected. To the left of the road, and down the canyon a few hundred yards, is a fine spring, from whence the water is elevated to the tank by the roadside. Half a mile to the south are a number of fine springs, which — with others to the westward— are the head-wa- ters of Lone Tree Creek, a tributary of the South Platte River. Along the road now is heavy rock-work, and on the exposed portions of the road may be seen the snow- sheds and snow-fences, built of plank or stone. fiuford — is a small side-track, 6 9-10 miles further. Heavy rock-work, and snow-sheds and fences mark the road. Water for the station is elevafed from springs down the ravine, on the southward. The country here presents a wild, rug- ged and grand apearance. The level ground or little valleys are covered with a fine coat of buftalo grass, and now and then clumps of stunted pine appear by the roadside. On either hand, near by, high, bold masses of granite rear their gray sides, piled one on the other, in wild confusion. Up, up, still higher, in the background are the rocky, pine-clad peaks of the Black Hills. The scene is pecu- liarly impressive as we near Shermao, especially if it chances to be one of those days when the clouds float low down the horizon ; then the traveler looks over the intervening space between him and the mountain range beyond, and sees naught but floating masses of vapor; no moun- tains, no valley, no forest, only these fleecy shapes, and a long, dark line rising above them, o'ertopped by the glistening sides of Long's Peak. The altitude gained, w^e see on the north side of the road,a sign- board — "Summit of the Mountains;" then seem to move along a level plain, covered with grass, rocks and shrubs, until we reach ^\\e:V\\\SiTA— Eight thousand two hundred and forty-two feet above the level of the sea. It is named in honor of General Sherman, the tallest general in the service. This station is 54y miles from Omaha and 1,365 from San Francisco. Sherman, as a town, is not noted for its size. The trains stop here but a few min- utes. The company's buildings consist of a comfortable station, a small repair shop, and a round-house of five stalls. A post- office, telegraph and express offices, one store, two hotels, two saloons, and about twenty houses of all sorts, constitute the town. Seventy miles to the southwest is Long's Peak, and 165 miles to the south is Pike's Peak, both plainly visible. To the north- west, about 100 miles distant, is Elk Moun- tain, another noted land-mark. The maxi- mum grade from Cheyenne to Sherman is 88.176 feet per mile. The freight taken on at this station for the East and West is quite extensive, consisting of sawed lum- ber, telegraph poles, and wood obtained in the hills and ravines but a few miles dis- tant to the northward. On many of these hills, and in the canyons, are found a dense growth of hard spruce pine, which, as to quality and adaptability for being dressed, resembles the hemlock of the Eastern States. The winters are not as severe at Sherman as many think, neither is the snow-fall as deep as many would suppose from seeing the great number of snow-sheds and fences ; snow seldom falls more than a few inches in depth. It is not the depth of snow that causes any inconvenience .to the working of the road, but it is the drifting of it into the cuts during the heavy winds. For the purpose of preventing this, the sheds, fences and walls are erected along the road, the latter a few rods away from the banks of the cuts. The fences cause an eddy or current of air, which piles the snow along in huge drifts, keeping it, in a AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 91 great measure, from the track. Snow-sheds cover the deepest cuts along the road, where obstructions from the snow are most likely to occur. The cold rains and deep- est snows come with an east wind ; the worst storms come from the southwest. The thermometer at Sherman ranges from 82 deg. Fahrenheit, in the summer, to 30 deg. below zero in winter. Springs of sparkling water are numerous in the surrounding country, and form many small streams whicli ^yind their way among rocks and through gorges until they are lost in the waters of other streams. At this elevated point, the tourist, if his "wind is good," can spend a long time pleasantly in wandering amid some of the wildest, grandest scenes to be found on the continent. There are places where the rocks rise higher, where the chasms are far deeper, where the surrounding peaks may be loftier, and the torrents might- ier in their power, and still they do not possess such power over the mind of man as does the wild, desolate-looking land- scape around Sherman. Although the plateau is covered with grass, and occa- sional shrubs and stunted trees greet the eye, the surrounding bleakness and deso- lation render this place one of awful gran- deur. The hand of Him who rules the universe is nowhere else more marked, and in no place will the tourist feel so utterly alone, so completely isolated from man- kind, and left entirely with nature, as at Sherman, on the Black Hills of Wyoming. At the tirst the tourist experiences much difficulty in breathing, the extreme light- ness of the air trying the lun^s to their ut most capacity, but becoming accustomed to the change, and inhaling long draughts of the pure mountain air, will greatly pre- fer it to a heavier atmosphere. Fish and Game — There is no spot along the line of road which can be compared to the locality around Sherman for trout fish- PALISADES OF THE HUMBOLDT RIVER, C. P. R.R. 92 crofutt's new overland tourist ing. The tiniest rivulets swarm with them, and their speckled sides glisten in every eddy. They weigh from one-fourth to two pounds, and their flesh is as hard and white as that of the mountain trout of Vermont. Antelope, elk, black-tailed deer, bear, sage hens and grouse abound in the hills and on the plateaus. The angler^ hunter, or tourist should never pass Sherman with- out pausing long enough to fly a hook and try his rifle. Doubtless this point will be- come a favorite summer resort for travelers, when the hotel accommodations are such as to entice them to remain, as it possesses eminent attractions for hunting and fishing. From Sherman to Rawlin's, 160 miles, the road runs between the Black Hills and the Rocky Mountain range, presenting varied and impressive scenery at various points. Leaving Sherman, the road turns to the left, and passes through several long snow- sheds and deep rock cuts to Dale Creek Bridge — Dale Creek is a noted stream, although a small one, and should have a noted bridge — as it has. When the road was being constructed over these hills, in 1867, the railroad company built a i)lated wooden frame-work structure 650 feet long, from bluft' to blufi" and 126 feet high. The bridge stood on trestles, interlaced with each other, and securely corded together and stayed by wire cables, secured to, and sloping from, the bridge on each side to substantial anchorage, down into the valley below, presenting a light and graceful appearance when viewed from the creek below. This old bridge was replaced in 1877 by one of iron, of similar dimensions, built in the most sub- stantial manner— see illustration, page 49. From the bridge, the beautiful little stream looks like a silver thread below us, the sun glistening its surface with a thou- sand flashes of silvery light. Anon, the dark walls of the canyon shade it, as though they were envious or jealous of its beauty being rendered common property. A narrow, green valley, half a mile above the bridge, is the site of the former Dale City, where, at one time, were over 600 inliabitants. Now, a few hundred yards above the bridge, can be seen a soli- tary house— like a lone sentinel in front of a deseited camp. Here, too, as well as around Sherman, and all over the Black Hills, are found countless flowers of every I variety and hue, over 300 varieties of which have been classified. Virginia Dale — is situated fifteen miles southwest of Sherman, in Colorado, at the head of a deep gorge, on Dale Creek, near the Cache-a-la Poudre River. On the east side of the canyon, the wall of overhanging rock rises about 600 feet high, for a mile along the stream, giving a wild and pictur- esque beauty, a sublimity and grandeur to the scene, rarely surpassed. This point is called the "Lover's Leap," though we never learned that any one ever leaped ofi"; but if the leap was made, we judge that the jar on alighting in the valley, 600 feet below, must have knocked all the love, romance or sentiment out of those making it. In and around this place are numerous dells, grottoes, gorges, canyons, precipices, towering peaks and rugged recesses, enough to employ the tourist for some time in examining their beauties. Some "yellow-covered novelist" has immortalized Virginia Dale, by calling it the "Robbers' Roost," though failing to inform us what they roosted on. But aside from this questionable honor, Virginia Dale is the most widely known and cele- brated of any locality in these mountains. There are a few good buildings around the place, where excursionists, who visit to enjoy the scenery, mountain air, and rare fishing and hunting, are provided for. See Annex, No 10. We now return to the railroad, cross the bridge, and turn away to the northward, through long snow-sheds and rocky cuts, made through red sandstone, six miles to Tie Siding — This station is important only in the tact of its being a point where great quantities of ties and wood are brought to the railroad from the hills to the northward. The view to the south is that of a very broken and rugged coun- try. To the west, the southern end of the great Laramie Plains is spread out, almost at our feet, twenty miles in width, with the wondrous Rocky Mountains ris- ing from its western border, range upon range, peak overlapping peak, away up, up into the regions of perpetual snow, over one hundred miles away. Our train is descending rapidly, and more to the northward ; steam is no longer required — only brakes. Onward, 4 1-10 miles, through snow-sheds and deep exca- vations, brings us to Harney — an unimportant station. Passing on, to the left can be seen the old AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 93 CROSSING THE RANGE ON SNOW SKATES-SEE ANNEX NO. 32. Denver and Salt Lake stage road, the tele- graph marking the line for some distance along the railroad. On the right hand, the whole valley has been fenced in for grazing purposes. The next station is 4 1-2 miles, denomi- nated Bed Bnttes — This locality derived its name from several ridges and peculiar formations of sandstone lying between the railroad and the Black Hills on the right. Many of these sandstones rear their peaks from 500 to 1,000 feet above the plain, apparently worn and washed by the elements, into wild, fantastic shapes and grotesque figures. Rocks which, at a dis- tance, might be taken for castles, rise side by side with the wall of an immense fort ; churches rear their roofs, almost shading the lowly cottage by their side ; columns, monuments and pyramids are mixed up with themselves and each other, as though some malignant power had carried off some mighty city of the olden time, and, wearying of his booty, had thrown it down upon these plains, without much regard to the order in which the buildings were placed. Some few only of these curiosities, can be seen from the car windows, and those are not the largest. The tourist, by stopping over a day or two at Laramie, would find much of interest in this section of the country. The Laramie River rises about 50 miles to the southwest from Red Buttes, on the eastern slope of the mountains — its source being composed of almost innumerable springs. Its general course is northeast for 200 miles, when it empties into the North Platte River at Foi't Laramie. During the building of the road, thou- sands of ties were floated down to Lara- mie, and thence hauled along the line. The supply of timber in this region is as near inexhaustible as can well be im- 94 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST agiaecl, where forests do not recover from the cutting. There will be no second growth here ; when once cut oil, it is gone forever. Saw mills will find employment for many generations, ere they can lay bare these mountains. Fort Saiulers— six and a half miles from Red Buttes, is a railroad station, for the military post of Fort Sanders, situated on the east side of the railroad, close to the track, and in plain view for miles in every direction. The buildings are princi- pally of logs, several of stone, and one an ordinary frame — the headquarters. This post was established June 23d, 1866, by two companies of the Third Bat- talion, U. S. Infantry, under command of Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel H. M. Mizner, Captain 18th Infantry. Latitude 41 deg, 13 min. 4 sec. (observation), longitude 105 deg. 40 min. (approximate.) Two and a-half miles farther on — rolling over a broad prairie, twenty-five miles in width — we arrive at the end of the 'Moun- tain Division." of the road — Laramie. TIiyCE T^SLE LARAMIE DIYISION. LARAMIE TO GREEN RIVER. S. T. Shankland, Division Suiierintendent. WEST FROM OMAHA. LARAMIE TIME. EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. Daily Emigrant. Daily Express l8t&2dcl's Distance from Omaha STATIONS, Elevati'n Daily Express 1st & 2d el's 11:30 am 11:02 10:45 10:18 9:55 9:27 9:00 t 8:20 8:00 7:40 7:12 6:55 6:10 6:20 5:58 5:33 5:15 4:50 4:30 3:55 3:25 3:00 2:40 2:10 1:40 1:10 12:50 12:25 12:05 am 11:50 11:25 11:10 10:55 10:40 10:25 10:02 9:45 9:15 9:00 + Daily Emigrant. 10:20 pm 10:55 5:60 pm 5:18 5:35 6:02 6:30 6:55 7:40 t 8:05 8:30 8:50 9:20 9:42 9.57 10:15 10:35 10:58 11:15 11:40 12:15 a m 12:35 12:55 1:17 1:45 2:10 2:32 3:00 3:25 3:45 4:00 4:15 4:40 4:55 5:10 5:22 5:40 6:00 6;15 6:40 7 :25t ..573 . . 581 . Lv *LARAM1E Av Howell ...7123.. ....7090.. ....7068.. ....7044.. ... 7169.. 2:00 1 "25 11:30 . 588 .*Wvomins:.. 12:50 12:20 a m ..602 * I. r me; r (J} stit CO-( o 1 ^ tior H the X „: „i M the mit ing rou and by 1 find Th€ sloj: sarD G out plei The ban I tion cros lowf erin narr whii proa D soon torrt the . toils aero; ing frow towa wliic Witl; scene ings, tion w !'.vt; iW NihlJiV ■."^/ wffl^' ; I'" ilil I hi' ''II I Ml >lii t^^ ■.•■,,''„>".'>',' J^ Q'&m. «■: fto'^ II ' 1 1 I 111.,! Sill I -m "'" ' li iiillil''' 'iiiiiili; 11 '!i' n^ ^ii'ii:'i|jill!m||iy|l{i]| 'liiillllll !"'"''''" !:.lli||il! Iii|! Ill Jllil 1 lli!!ii! ,, I II i '■ ■ ' i !lli 'ill! ili^ I I !! Iil!|i||i; ili>l; Hi '■iil'^lliiiil Ii'l;! il'! Iili::'!| AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 121 Leaving Uintah, the road winds around to the right and follows the base of the mountains, with the river on the left. The country is fertile and dotted with well- tilled farms. As we run along down the Weber River, and 7.5 miles from Uintah, we reach Ogden — the j unction of U nion and Cen- tral Pacific railroads. The distance from Omaha is 1,032 miles; from San Francisco 882 miles ; from Salt Lake City, 36 miles ; elevation, 4,301 feet. Near the station building are the depots of the Utah Cen- tral and the Utah Northern railroads. All passengers, baggage, mail, and ex- press, " change cars " at this station. Pas- sengers who have through tickets in sleep- ing cars will occupy the same numbers in the Central as they liad in the Union, and those who had their baggage checked through need give it no attention; but those who only checked to this place — to the end of the U. P. road — will need to see that it is re-checked . At this station, trains stop a full hour, and sometimes a little longer — much depending upon the amount of matter to be changed from one train to another. The station building stands between the tracks, in which passengers will find a dining room, where they can have ample time to eat a good "square meal " — price $1 .00. Most of the buildings at the station are of wood, but the necessary grounds have been secured near by for the erection of a " Union Depot." When will it be doneV Quie)i sabef Ogden City is situated two miles east from the depot, at the mouth of Ogden Canyon, one of the gorges which pierce the Wasatch range, and between the Weber and Ogden rivers. Population, about 6,500. This is the county seat of Weber county, and has amply provided itself with all needful county buildings. The Mor- mons have a tabernacle, and several other denominations have places of worship here. The citizens are mostly Mormon, and all public improvements are under their supervision. It is a poor place for " carpet-t3aggers." The waters of the Ogden River are con- ducted through the streets, and used in the gardens and fields for irrigating, the re- sult of which is that the city is in the midst of one great fiower garden and for- est of fruit and shade trees. Lti the gar- dens are fruit trees of all kinds, which bear abundantly, and in the fields are raised immense crops of grain and vege- tables. Rich mines of iron, silver and slate are reported near the city, but little has been done towards developing them. Ogden has several good hotels, chief of which is the Utah House. Two news- papers are published here, the Daily Junc- tion, and the Freeman Weeliy. The Wasatch Mountains rise some thou- sands of feet above the city, and the tourist would find much of interest in a stroll up the mountain side and along the canyons. Ogden Canyon is about five miles long, and from its mouth to its source, from plain to mountain top, the scenery is grand and im- posing. In places the granite walls rise on each side 1,500 feet high, and for a consid- erable distance not more than 150 feet apart. About six miles from Ogden, up in the mountains behind the town, is a lovely lit- tle valley called "The Basin," watered by mountain streams and covered with a lux- uriant growth of grass. Before proceeding further, we will take a hasty glance at Utah Territory. This territory extends from the 37th to the 42d parallel of north latitude, and from the 109th to the 114tli degree of west longi- tude, containing a superficial area of about 65,000 square miles, with a population of about i 30,000 whites, Indians and Chinese. This area includes large tracts of wild mountainous and barren country. At pres- ent, most of the lands under cultivation and the meadow lands are around the lakes and in the neighboring mountain val- leys, and are very productive when irri- gated ; grains, fruits and vegetables matur- ing readily, and yielding large returns — the aridity "of the climate precluding the growing of crops by any other means. Opposite title page of this book, see illus- tration — Utah's Best Crop. Rich veins of gold, silver, coal, iron, cop- per, zinc, cinnabar, antimony, and nearly all the metals found in the "Great West," exist in Utah, and it is the opinion of most men, had it not been for the " Councils" of Brigham Young to his followers, the Mor- mons, not to prospect for minerals, Utah might to-day be ah honored State, in the great family of States, with a developed mineral wealth, second only to California, and possibly the first. The whole country within her borders would be illuminated 122 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST with the perpetual fires of her " smelting furnaces," and resound willi the thundering echoes and re-echoes of the thousands of de- scending stamps grinding out the wealth, which, since the completion of the Pacific railroad, and the consequent influx of " Gentiles " has been exported by mil- lions and most effectually demonstrated the fact that Utah, if not the richest, is certainly next to the richest silver-mining country in the world. Besides the above, brimstone, saltpeter, gypsum, plumbago and soda have been dis- covered, some of which are being worked, while fire-clay, marble, granite, slate, red and white sandstone, limestone and kindred formations exist to an almost unlimited ex- tent. Salt can be shoveled up in its crude state on the shores of Salt Lake, and in the southern part of the Territory, is found by the mountain, in a remarkably transparent and pure state. Iron ore exists in large quantities in Iron, Summit and Weber counties. Coal abounds in various parts, but the principal mines now worked are at Coalville, in Summit county and in San Pete. The lat- ter yields a good quality of blacksmith coal, in large quantities. At this time there are about 30 organized mining districts in the Territory. We have not the space to devote to a description of the mines, were we able ; they appear to be inexhaustible and very rich. For a very complete mining map of Utah, see page 109. Fish culture has, since 1874, been re- ceiving some attention, and a fish farm with a superintendent thereof, is lo'cated a few miles from Salt Lake City. There are quite a number of smelting furnaces in operation in various parts of the Territory, and in Salt Lake City. Utah was first settled in 1847. On the 24th of July, the advance guard of the Mor- mon emigration, numbering 143 men, en- tered Salt Lake Valley ; five days later 150 more men arrived vinder Captain Brown, and on July 31st, Great Salt Lake City was laid out. At that time the country be- longed to the Republic of Mexico, but by the treaty of Gaudaloup Hidalgo, in 1848 it was ceded to the United States. The summers are very warm and dry; the winters mild and open. The fall of snow is light in the valley and heavy in the mountain, the melting of which afibrds ample water for irrigating the foot-hills and valleys. Vegetables of all kinds grow astonishingly large, and of superior quality. Timber is not very plenty, and then, is only found in the mountains of diflQcult ac- cess. Returning to business ; at Ogden, we will step into the cars of the Utah Central Railroad, The principal offices of which are at Salt Lake City. JoHX Sharp, President and Superintendent. John Sharp, Jr., General Passenger Agent. 3. W. Fox, Engineer. The Utah Central is 36.5 miles in length and the pioneer road of Utah, excepting the through line. May 17, 18C9, just one week after the ''love feast" of the Union and the Central at Promentory, ground was broken at Ogden, and the enterprise was inaugurated with due ceremonies; Presi- dent Brigham Young and the chief digni- taries of the Mormon church being in at- tendance. In about half an hour after the overland trains arrive at Ogden Junction, the cars of this road roll up to the depot for passengers. When leaving, the train crosses the Weber River, on a fine bridge ; just to the north of the depot passes through a deep cut and comes out on a bench of land that gradually slopes from the mountains on the left, to the waters of the lake on the right, six and four miles distant, respectively. From the car window, on the right, a good view can be had of a portion of Great Salt Lake, but the best view is to be had from the top of Promontory Mountain. See Annex No. 21. The first station from Ogden is 16 miles distant, along the slop- ing land named, which is covered above the line of irrigation, with sage, but below with the thrifty Mormon farmers. A wide strip of land near the Lake is valueless, owing to the salt in the soil. Kaysville is an incorporated town in Davis county, and is surrounded with well-cultivated farms, finely kept gardens, with water running through the streets, and has fruit and shrubbery in profusion. The county is comprised of five towns, all, with one exception, traversed by our road, within the next 15 miles. The*county has about 7,000 population, seven flouring mills and three saw mills. Farming TON — is the next station, five miles distant, being the county seat of Davis county, and contains good county l)uildings, several flouring mills, and the usual beautiful surroundings of fruit trees and orchards, for which all Mormon set- tlements are noted. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 123 BRIGHAM YOUNG. — For sketch of life see Annex No. 25. Cente:rville — is the next station, four miles from Farniington. Tiie description of one Mormon village will do for nearly all; good farms and crops are the rule, where the land is irrigated, and none where it is not. Wood's Crossing — comes next, two miles further, being the station for the lit- tle village of Bountiful, on the left, and is in the midst of the best cultivated and best producing land in the Territory. The course of our road from Ogden to Salt Lake is almost due south, while the Wasatch Mountains, for 30 miles, describe a huge circle in the middle to the east- ward. The lower point of this circle we are fast approaching, and will reach in about two miles, just at the point of the mountain ahead, where steam is rising. There, under the point of that huge rock, boils up a hot spring, in a large volume, forming a creek several feet in width, with a depth of six inches, and it is 'oery liot There is no nonsense about this spring ; it will boil an egg in two minutes. The highest peak in the mountain, close to tlie eastward of these springs al- luded to, is 1,200 feet above the valley, and is 124 CROFUTT S XEAV OVERLAND TOURIST called Ensign Peak — the " Mount of Proph- ecy," — where the late Prophet, Brigham Young, was wont to wrestle with the Lord. Just beyond, on the right, is Hot Spring Lake, which is formed from the waters of this and others of lesser volume, near by. This lake freezes over in the winter, except near the shore on the northeastern end, and is a great resort for skating parties from Salt Lake City. Great Salt Lake never freezes over — it's too salt. Passing the lake, our road keeps straight across a broad bottom, while the moun- tains on the left again curve away to the eastward. The Warm Spring buildings, where are located the city baths, can be seen beside the mountain on the left, marked by a con- tinuous column of steam, rising near the buildings. These are the disputed springs, to obtain possession of which, it is supposed by many, Dr. Robinson was murdered. The baths are well patronized by invalids, who visit them for health, relying on their me- dicinal qualities to remove their ailments. The following is an analysis of the water, as made by Dr. Charles T. Jackson, of Boston : Three fluid ounces of the water on evap- oration to entire dryness in a platina cap- sule gave 8.25 grains of solid, dry, saline matter. Carbonate of lime and magnesia 0.240 1.280 Per oxide of iron 0.040 0.208 Lime 545 2.907 Chlorine 3.454 18.421 Soda 2.877 15.348 Magnesia 0.370 2.073 Sulphuric acid 0.703 3.748 8.229 43.981 It is slightly charged with hydro-sul- phuric acid gas and with carbonic acid gas, and is a pleasant saline mineral water, having valuable properties belonging to saline sulphur springs. The usual tem- perature is 102 degrees F. They are one mile north of Salt Lake City, and are reached by stages hourly. liolling on through the northern suburbs of the city, a little over eight miles from Wood's Crossing, we stop at the depot in Siilt Lake, the City of Zion. Passengers arriving at the depot will find a " Bus " at the eastern gate that will take a passenger and his baggage to jmy hotel or point" in the city for 50 cents ; or, at the same gate, street cars, that pass the door of every prominent hotel in the city; fare, 10 cents, or ten tickets for 50 cents. Salt Ijake City— or "Zion," as the city is often called by the Mormon faith- ' ful, is one of the most beautiful and pleas- antly located of cities. It is situated at the foot of a spur of the Wasatch Mountains, the northern limits extending on to the "bench" or upland, which unites the plain with the mountain. From the east two wagon roads enter the city, via Emi- grant and Parley Canyons. The streets are wide, bordered with shade-trees, and laid out at right angles. Along each side of the streets is a clear, cold stream of water from the mountain canyons, which, with the numerous shade- trees and gardens, give the city an inde- scribable air of coolness, comfort and re- pose. The city contains a population of full 20,000, is the capital of the Territory and county seat of Salt Lake county. It has 21 wards within its limits, and is the terminus of three railroads. It contains some as fine business blocks, hotels, and private residences, as can be tound in any city west of the Missouri River. The Mormon church, besides its Taber- nacle, has a bishop located in every ward of the city, who holds ward meetings regu- larly. The other churches hold services in four or more places in the city. The Ma- sons have five lodges in the city; the Odd Fellows four, and some of the other fellows several. There are 38 mining and smelting oflices, five sampling and smelt- ing works, five iron foundries, boiler and brass works, twoflouringmills, one woolen mill, nine hotels, six breweries, two exten- sive marble works, and a score or more of small manufacturing establishments. There are four daily newspapers. The Beseret News is the church organ, the Her- ald claims to be independent, the Tribune strong opposition Mormon, and the Times. Each of these issue weeklies. Newspaper business is very precarious in Utah, It's as fine an opening for a young man to get his " teeth cut," as we know of in the world — he can soon get a double and single set all around. In the mercantile line, Salt Lake City Terms Heard on the Plains.— " Lariat" is the Spanish name for rope. "Bronco," Califor- nia or Spanish pony. " Bueano," (wa-no) good, " Esta Bueano," (star wa-no) very good, no better. "• No sabe," (sarvey) don't understand. " Quien sabe," (kin sarvey) who knows, or do you under- stand. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 125 lias several establisliments that would do credit to any city ia the Union, one of which is mmmim The above cut represents the Mormon " Co-operative Sign " — called by the Gen- tiles the " Bull's Eye." At the Mormon Conference, in the fall of 1868, all good Mormon merchants, manufacturers and dealers who desired the patronage of the Mormon people, were directed to place this sign upon their buildings in a conspic- uous place, that it might indicate to the people that they were sound in the faith. The Mormon people were also directed and warned not to purchase goods or in any manner deal with those who refused or did not have the sign. The object seemed to be only to deal with their own people, to the exclusion of all others. The result of these measures on the part of the church was to force many who were Gentiles or apostate Mormons to sacrifice their goods, and leave the Terri- tory for want of patronage. However, the order was not very strictly enforced — or complied with; yet many of these signs are to be seen in Salt Lake City and other parts of the Territory on buildings occupied by the faithful. To more eftectually carry out the plan of co-operation, one great company was to be formed to purchase goods in large quantities and establish branches through- out all the Mormon settlements. Such a company was organized, and incorporated with many high Mormon dignitaries as eithet' stockholders or officers, and it is now known as " Zion's Co-operative Mercantile Institution" — with headquarters in Salt Lake City. The " Z. C. M. I," undoubtedly have the finest and largest building in the city. It is of brick, 3i8 feet long, 53 feet in width, three stories and cellar, and finished throughout in the best manner. It also has an addition 25 by 195 feet, and used for a warehouse ; cost, $175,000, built of iron, stone and glass, but the business owned and conducted by the Walker Bros, is the largest in Utah, requiring five differ- ent departments, each occupying a large building. Think of it, " O ye people!" thirty years ago this whole country 1,000 miles in any direction, was uninhabited and almost un- known to the white race. The annual sales of these two establishments exceed $5,000,- 000, and with their goods, gathered here from all parts of the world, stand forth as monuments of American enterprise, in an AMERICAN DESEKT. The late President Brigham Young's residence (see illustration, page 131, also of '-'Eagle Gate," page 133), tithing house, printing office and business offi- ces connected with the church occupy an entire block, on the bench of land over- looking the city, which is one of the first objects of interest visited by the traveler on arriving in Salt Lake City. The traveler who visited this cit}^ some years ago — before the discovery of the rich silver mines — would be surprised by a visit now, at the remarkable changes noticeable on every hand ; all is life and energy ; everybody seems to have a pocket- ful of certificates of mining property, and you hear of extensive preparations making on every side with a view to a vigorous prosecution of various mining enterprises. The public buildings are not very numer- ous. They consist of a court-house, city hall, city prison, theatre, and The Tabernacle — an immense build- ing — the first object one beholds on enter- ing the city. The building is oblong in shape, having a length of 250 feet from east to west, by 150 feet in width. The roof is supported by 46 columns of cut sandstone, which, with the spaces between, used for doors, windows, etc, constitute the wall. From these pillars or walls, the roof springs in one unbroken arch, form- 126 CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ing the largest self-sustaining roof on the continent, with one notable exception — the Grand Union Depot erected by the late Commodore Vanderbilt in New York. The ceiling of the roof is 65 feet above the floor. In one end of this egg-shaped building is the organ — the second in size in America. The Tabernacle is used for church pur- poses, as well as other large gatherings of the people. With the gallery, which ex- tends across both sides and one end of this immense building, it will seat 8,000 people — see illustration, page 103, also interior view, page 119. The Temple — This building — a fine il- lustration of which will be found on page 69, is not yet completed, but work is pro- gressing steadily, and it is up about 20 feet. The dimensions of the foundations are 99xl86i^ feet. The site of the Tem- ple is on the eastern half of the same block with the Tabernacle. Since the advent of railroads into Utah, and the discovery of the rich mines, church property has not accumulated very rapidly. Within the past few years nearly all the religious denominations have se- cured a foothold in this city. Camp Douglas — a military post, estab- lished October 26, 1862, by Gen. E. P. Conner, Third Regiment of California Vol- unteer Infantry, is situated on the east side of the Jordan, four miles from that stream, three miles east of the City of Salt Lake, and fifteen miles southeast of Salt Lake. Latitude, 40 deg. 46 min. 2 sec. ; longi- tude, 111 deg. 53 min. 34 sec. Its location is on a sloping upland or bench at the base of the mountains and overlooking the city, and aftbrds a fine view of the country to the west and south. Jordan River — This stream, which bor- ders Salt Lake City on the west, is the out- let of Utah Lake, which lies about forty miles south. It empties into the Great Salt Lake, about twelve miles northwest of the city. There are a great many hotels in Salt Lake City, but the principal ones are the Walker, Townsend, White, Clift; Valley, and the Salt Lake House. We have to record one important inncoa- tion that has recentl}" been introduced into the hotel business in Utah. Yes, and we will give you a picture of the house that originated it. The "good, old-fasbioned way" of imparting knowledge to dull pupils— By rule, paddling it in through the pores of the skin . This house, in addition to its being first- class in every particular, with steam ele- vator and central location, furnishes its guests a competent guide free of charge^ to conduct them to all places of interest in the city, introduce them to prominent per- sonages when required, and give all needed information. G. S. Erb, Esq., is proprietor, and the Walker Bros, are the owners of this house, which fact is a sufficient guar- antee that the iimmatioii is one to be de- pended upon. The picture of the late President, Brig- ham Young, on page 123, was the last one ever taken. It was made by Mr. Sav- age of Salt Lake City, an eminent artist, and is said to be a very accurate picture. For sketch of the life of Brigham Young, see Annex No. 25. For little items worth knowing about Salt Lake City, see Annex No. 22. We will now take a run over all the railroads in Utah, commencing with the Utah Southern Railroad. Principal office, Salt Lake City. John Sharp President and Superintendent. John Sharp, Jr General Passenger Agent. J. W. Fox Engineer. This road is practically a continuation of the Utah Central. It was commenced May 1st, 1871, and built thirteen miles during the year, to Sandy, and then ex- tended, from time to time, until, at this time, March 1st, 1878, it is completed 75 miles south, to the terminus. The cars start from the same depot as the Central. We will step on board, and roll south- ward along through the city — passing fine AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 127 residences, beautiful gardens, thrifty or- chards, and well-cultivated fields, with the Jordan River on our right, the Oquirrh range of mountains far in the distance, and the towering Wasatch Mountains on our left ; this is Jordan Valley. This val- ley extends from Salt Lake City, south, to Utah Lake, about 40 miles distant, witli a varying width of from two to twelve miles. About live miles south, on the left, is situated the Morgan Smelting Works, on the creek that comes down from Big Cot- tonwood, and opposite Parley Canyon, which can be seen on the east, just below the mouth of which is located the State Penitentiary, and the Utah Woolen Mill. Crossing the creek, and passing on seven miles from the city, we come to Little Cottonwood — the first station. On the left are the Wasatch Smelting Works, and a little beyond the American Smelting Works. Just after crossing the Little Cottonwood Creek, on the right, is the big Germania Smelting and Refining Works, with the town of Germania, con- taining 500 inhabitants. Passing along, on the right, can be seen great piles of silver ore — '' matte " as it is called. From this point the mountain view is grand; to the eastward, the canyons of Parley, Mill Creek, Big and Little Cotton- wood, and Dry Creek, are all in view. The country here shows what irriga- tion is doing for it ; there can be no finer lands or crops than are here found. In every direction the laud is covered with a labyrinth of canals and ditches, conduct- ing the essence of life to all vegetation be- neath them, and literally causing the land to flow with " milk and honey." Five miles further we come to Junction — a small station, where all passengers for West Mountain, Bingham Canyon Mines, and the vicinity, " change cars " for those of the Biiigliam C/anyoii Railroad. Official Headquarters, Salt Lake City. C. W. ScHOPiELD President. Ezra Humphrey... Treaswrer db Superintendent. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, completed to the mouth of Bingham Can- yon, 1(3 miles west, and had cars running- December 1st, 1873. Let us take a roll over it. Leaving the junction, our course is due west, through a well-cultivated section of country. Jordan Station — is one mile distant, where there is a postoffice, and a small collection of cottages. Near by, a track leads off to the Old Telegraph Smelter, the dressing works of which are a short distance below the road, on the opposite side of the Jordan River, which we cross soon after leaving the station. Just as we raise on to the west bank of the Jordan, we come to the residence of Bishop Gardner, who is the " better half " of eleven wices. The Bishop appears to stand it pretty well, although they do say that he is occasionally found singing, " On Jordan's stormy banks I stand," with a tear accompaniment. West Jordan — is on the west bank of the river and contains a few hundred peo- ple. From this station, the grade in- creases, and soon we reach a high table- land, too high for irrigation by ditches, without great expense. Bunchgrass, white sage, sheep, some cattle, and Jack-rabbits abound — the latter are very numerous. The road, about five miles from the river, enters the long, broad ravine that leads to Bingham, up which we roll — the ravine gradually becoming narrower as we ascend. Occasionally we pass a little farm-house, and a few acres of farm and garden land. Nearing the mountains, the ravine narrows, to a few hundred feet, and finally to only sufficient room for the rail- road and a little creek, between the blufts on each side. These bluffs arc from 250 to 1,000 feet in height, covered with small stone, sage, and a few small pine trees. As we ascend, the bluffs are more pre- cipitous, higher and pierced in numerous places with "prosj^ect holes." In places the grade is 120 feet, ?,nd then, more, and finally it becomes too much for our iron horse, and we stop at the end of the steam road, one mile below Bingham City — population about 2,000. Just below the city is located on the left, the Winnemucca mill and mine. We knoio it is there, as m^c " prospected " it once — about 30 feet. Bingham City is built along the canyon for two miles, and contains a number of mills and works connected with mining. From the station, a tramway up which small ore cars are hauled with mules, extends up the canyon for three miles, with a branch running back from about half the distance up to a mine on the top of the mountain, about one and a half miles 128 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST further, making of tramway 4^2 miles; whole length of road 201-^ miles. The tramway is built on the south side of the canyon, away up on the side of the mountain. From the cars can he had a fine view of the canj^on, Bingham, the mines and mills in the neighboring ravines and on the opposite mountain side, and the miners at the bottom of the canyon, working over the old " placer diggings." At the end of this tramway is located the old Telegraph mine, one of the richest in the Territory, from which over 200 tons of ore a day is shipped, down over the tram and railroad to the smelters in the valley. The cars are hauled up by mules, and low- ered down to the " iron horse" below Bing- ham by the car brakes. The mines are numerous in and around Bingham, but we have not the space for a description of them, but will return to the junction on the Utah Southern, and one mile further arrive at Sandy — This station is 13 miles south of Salt Lake City, and one of considerable im- portance. At Sandy is to be seen immense quanti- ties of ore — ore in sacks, ore loose by the car load, ore in warehouses 500 feet long, with a train unloading on one side and an- other loading on the other ; in fact, this is the greatest shipping, smelting and sam- pling point in all Utah. At Sandy are three sampling works, and two smelting works, and a lively town of 700 inhabitants, the greater portion em- ployed in the handling and manipulation of ores. Here we find another railroad branching off ; this time it is the Wasatch &, Jordan Valley . Principal oflBces at Salt Lake City. C. W. ScHOPiELD President. Ezra Humph i^ey Treas. and Superintendent. This road is a three-foot narrow-gauge, 16 miles in length, running to Alta, at the head of Little Cottonwood Canyon. It is operated by narrow gauge steam engines for 8.5 miles, and the other 7.5 by broad gauge mules. The road was commenced in 1870, finished to Wasatch in 1872, and to Alta in 1876. Let us take a trip over it and note a few of the sights. From Sandy the train runs north a short distance, and then turns to the east, directly for the Wasatch Mountains, leaving the old Flagstaff smelter on the left-hand side of the track, just above the station. The grade is heavy, the soil is stony, and cov- ered more or less with sage-brush, and traversed by irrigating ditches conveying the water to a more productive and less stony soil below. Nearing the mountains, about six miles from Sandy, we come to a deep gorge on the left, through w^hich Little Cottonwood Creek has worn its w^ay to the valley. From this point we bear away to the southward around a low butte, then turn again to the east and northward and run along on an elevated plateau where a most beautiful view can be had. On the west, the Jordan Valley, in all its magnificent shades of green and gold, is at our feet, with the brown old mountains bordering the hori- zon in the distance. To the north, fifteen miles away, over as beautiful a succession of little streams, well-cultivated fields, white cottages, orchards and gardens, as are to be found within the same number of miles in this country — sleeps " Zion " in full view, embowered in green, with the dome of the monster Tabernacle glistening like some half-obscured " silver moon," sinking at the mountain base ; while far beyond, and more to the westward, laj^s the Great Salt Lake— a mysterious problem. Away to the south, is Utah Lake, looking like one large sheet of burnished silver, surrounded by a net-work of green and gold, w^hile to .the east looms up towering granite walls, cleft from summit to base, forming a nar- row gorge only sufficiently wide to allow our little road to be built beside a little rippling creek of crystal water. Rolling along, our train rounds the head of a ravine, through a deep cut, passes the old Davenport Smelting Works on the left, enters the mouth of the canyon be- tween great walls of granite, crosses and re- crosses^ the little creek, and soon stops at Wasatch — the end of the steam road, 8.5 miles from Sandy Junction. This is a small station M'ith postoffice, store, and a few dwellings containing a population of about 100, more than half of whom are en- gaged in the stone quarries on the north side of the station. At Wasatch all the granite is got out and shaped for the Temple in Salt Lake City. The stone is the best yet discovered in the Territory, being of close, fine grain, of light gray color, and of beautiful birds-eye appearance. The granite on the south side appears much darker than that on the north side of the canyon. From almost every nook and crevice of these mountain clijffs— from the station away AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 120 up the canyon — grow small pines, cedars, ferns, and mosses, which, in connection with the gray walls, snow-capped moun- tains, glistening waterfalls, pure air and golden sun, presents a picture of rare beauty. Just above, on the left of the station, away up on a projecting cliff, 1,000 feet above the road, stands a granite column which measures 66 "^3 feet in height, from the pedestal-like cliff on which it stands. On each side of this column, and receding from its base, is a little grotto-park, filled with nature's evergreens, and surrounded on three sides and on the top with rocks of every size and shape. Fmding that this granite column has had no name^ we name it " Humphry's Peak," in honor of the very gentlemanly superintendent of the road. At Wasatch we " change cars," taking those of about the size of an ordinary hand-car, fitted up with seats that will com- fortably accommodate about nine persons, besides the knight of the whip — who chir- rups the " broad gauge mules." About a half-mile above the station we enter the snow-sheds, which will continue for seven miles, to the end of the track at Alta— a small mining town, at the head of little Cottonwood Canyon. The end of the track is on the side of the mountain about 200 feet above the town of Alta, and about 500 feet below the mouth of the cele- brated Emma Mine, which is a little fur- ther to the east, and opposite the Flagstaff Mine, which is about the same height above the road. The town of Alta is at the bottom of the canyon 300 feet lower than the end of the railroad surrounded with mountam peaks, which are covered with snow eight months of the year, and at all times surrounded with an eternal mantle of evergreen. It contains about 500 population, all of whom are engaged in mining and kindred pursuits. There are several stores, express, telegraph, and postoffice, besides several small hotels, chief of which is the Adolph. To the north, over the mountain two miles is the Big Cottonwood Canyon ; to the south, three miles, is the Miller Mine, and American Fork Canyon ; Forest City is four miles. Three miles east by trail is Crystal Lake, a beautiful sheet of water — the angler's paradise. The principal mines near Alta are, the Emma, Flagstaff, Grizzly, Nabob, Kate Ijlays, Consolidated Alta, Laramie, JPrince 6 of Wales, and 1,800 others, located within five miles. The business of the railroad is the transportation of ores and supplies to and from the mines. Hundreds of cars are loaded daily with ore that is taken to the valley to be smelted or are sent to San Francisco, the East, or to Swansea, Wales. For novel methods of hauling ore to the depot, see Annex No. 24. The sheds over the railroad are seven miles in length, and are made in various styles of architecture, more for business than beauty, the style being adopted accord- ing to circumstances. They are, however, in all places constructed of heavy material, rocks, round or sawed timber^ and built in the most substantial manner. In one place they are in the shape of a letter V, sharp peaked ; in other places, nearly upright on each side, one side higher than the other, with a sloping roof. Again the lower hill- side is built with a little slope toward the up hill side, and long heavy timbers from the top of these uprights slope up onto the mountain side, resting on a solid granite foundation leveled to a uniform grade, for that purpose. Where the latter plan has been adopted, there is danger of snow-slides wiiicli are more likely to occur, in fact, have occurred a number of times since the sheds were con- structed, and each time, the snow and rocks passed over the shed into the canyon below, without causing one cent's worth of damage to the road or shed. The grade of this road, where it is oper- ated with mules, is seven miles long. As before stated, the grade is 600 feet to the mile ; the curves are in places 30 degrees, and not, as once stated in the " Railway Age,"" 30 curves and 600 fpot gauge. But we suppose that Col. Bridges, when he wrote that, was thinking about those "broad gauge mules." Returning, the mule power that took us up is no longer in demand ; the knight of the whip now mans the brakes, and away we go around the Age's 30 curves, to the valley below, "change cars" at Sandy, and are once more headed for the south, on the Utah Southern railroad. A short distance south, we pass the Mcintosh Sampling mill, on the west and another on the east. Sampling is testing such ores as are pre- sented in quantities sufficient to enable the sampling company to give certificates of their value, and then the ore is sold at the certificate rates. One mile further is the Mingo Smelter of the Penn. Lead Co. 130 ckofutt's NEW OVEKLAND TOUKIST The land is more rolling, as we approach Draper — This is not a very important station to the tourist, but to the few vil- lagers of Herramon, at the mouth of a little canyon beside the mountains on the left, it is a hig institution. Draper is four miles from Sandy and seventeen from Salt Lake City. Leaving Draper, our course is east, and after crossing South Willow Creek, turns more to the south, and finally to the west, having kept around the foot of the moun- tains, which here make a full half-circle. In the distance around, there are many cuts and some hard work, and we queried, why the road was built around, when the work was so heavy and the distance much further than across where there was very little work to be done? In answer, we were told that President Brigham Young laid out the road around the side of the moun- tain, by " revelation.'''' If that is so, we con- clude that the revelation came from the same " deity " that took our Savior up on the Mount, but as it is not " our funeral," we will not criticise. The lower point of the great curve is called the " Point of theMountain." At the point where the railroad is built around, the track is about 300 feet above a little round valley to the west, in which is lo- cated a hot spring, marked by a brown burned patch of land and rising stream. As our train curves around this point, a most charming view can be had ; one of the finest on the road. The valley is here nearer, to the northward the view in unob- structed for 50 miles ; to the south, Utah Lake, a gem in rich setting, and the great Lower Basins. Passing through numerous cuts and around the point, the train curves again to the eastward, and starts again on another grand curve around the rim of the basin, in which is located Utah Lake, in plain view. Nearl}^ opposite the " point of the moun- tain" is a loAv divide in the Oquirrh Range on the west, over which the road leads to Camp Floyd. Continuing along through sand cuts, sage and an occasional farm, 14 miles from Draper we arrive at Leiii — This town is situated in the midst of a perfect forest of fruit trees, orchards and gardens, with the waters of Dry Canyon Creek running through all the streets, and contains a population of about 1,500, includ- ing those living in the immediate vicinity. The good results of irrigating sage-brush land, are here demonstrated by the large crops of wheat, oats, barley and vegetables produced, where, before the land was irri- gated, nothing ^but sage-brush and grease- wood were to be seen. Three miles further is American Fork — a station 34 miles from Salt Lake City — the " banner " town for fine schools; also the first in the Terri- tory, having been established here in 1869. The streets are wide, with the waters of Deer Creek, which comes down the Amer- ican Fork Canyon, running through them, and the orchards, gardens and farms in the neighborhood making an attractive and beautiful town. The population numbers about 1,600, the greater portion of whom are engaged in agricultural pursuits. The American Fork House, opposite the sta- tion, is the principal hotel, and Robert Keppeneck is one of the jolliest of German hosts. To the southwest of the station, a com- pany is engaged in building a dam across the Jordan River for irrigating purposes. The canal is to be 22 feet wide on the bot- tom and 30 inches deep, and when comple- ted will extend north 20 miles, winding around the base of the Wasatch, near our road, keeping as far up on the side of the mountain as possible. From the dam, a ca- nal will be taken out for the west side of the Jordan, with a view of taking the water all over the lands as far north as Salt Lake City, and if possible, reclaim the vast tract of sage land between the Jordan River at Salt Lake City, and the Oquirrh Range, at the foot of Salt Lake. From this station a road branches off to the eastward, up American Fork Canyon, called the American Fork Railroad. Principal office, Salt Lake City. Gen. Loyd Abpinwall 'President- Ezra Humphret Sec. and SujJCrintendent. This is a three-foot, narrow gauge rail- road, 15 miles in length; commenced May, 1872, and completed 12 miles during the 3'-ear. The grade for the whole distance is heavy, in places 312 feet to the mile. Leaving the station at American Fork, the road turns directly to the east, and fol- lows up Deer Creek, through a general as- sortment of sage brush, sand and boulders, for six miles to the mouth of the Canyon. On the way up, to the right, a fine view can be had of Mt. Aspinwall, rising from the lower range of the AVasatch to an alti- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 131 BRIGIIAM young's RESIDENCE. tude of 11,011 feet above the sea. From the mouth of the canyon, about two miles north, is the little village of Al- pine, containing about 250 agriculturalists. Entering the canyon, the passage is quite narrow between the towering cliffs, which rise up in sharp peaks 600 feet in height, leaving only about 100 feet be- tween, through which the road is built, and a sparkling little stream comes rip- pling: down ; the road, on its way up, cross- ing and re-crossing the stream many times. Our train is rapidly climbing, but the canyon walls seem to be much more rap- idly rising, and at a distance of one, two and three miles, gain an additional 500 feet, until, in places, they are full 2,500 feet above the road bed. In places these cliffs are pillared and castelated granite, in others, of slate, shale and conglomerate, seamed in places as though built up from the bed of the canyon by successive layers, some as thin as a knife blade, others much thicker; then again, the rocks have the appearance of iron slag, or dark colored lava suddenly cooled, presenting to the eye every conceivable angle and fan- tastic shape — a continuous, ever-changing panorama. Imagine, then, this canyon with its grottoes, amphitheatres, and its towering crags, peaks, and needle-pointed rocks, tow- ering/ar above the road, overhanging it in places, with patches of eternal snow in the gloomy gorges near the summit, and clothed at all times in a mantle of green, the pine, spruce and cedar trees growing in all the nooks and gulches and away up on the sum- mit ; then countless mosses and ferns cling- ing to each crevice and seam where a foot- hold can be secured, together with the mil- lions of flowers of every hue ; where the sun's rays are sifted through countless objects on their way to the silvery, sparkling stream below, with its miniature cascades and ed- dies. We say imagine all these things, and then you will only have a faint outline of the wild and romantic, picturesque and glorious American Fork Canyon. Proceeding on up, up, around sharp crags, under the very overhanging moun- tains, we pass " Lion Rock " on the right, and " Telescope Peak " on the left. In the top of the latter is a round aperture, through which the sky beyond can be plainly seen ; this hole is called the " Dev- il's Eye." About three miles from the mouth of the canyon, on the left, we come to Hanging Rock. (See illustration page 29.) Close above, on the same side, is a very large spring, and almost immediately opposite "Sled-runner Curve;" — an inverted vein of rock in the side of the perpendicular clift', resembling a sled-runner — possibly this is the Devil's sled-nmner ; who knows ? Along 132 croputt's new overland tourist liere the rock seams are badly mixed, and run at all angles — horizontal, longitudinal and "through other." Half-a-mile further we come to " Rainbow Clift," on the right;* opposite, a narrow peak rises sharp, like a knife-blade, 300 feet; a little further on to the right, comes in the South For^, on which are located several saw mills. Keeping to the left, and soon after pass- ing the South Fork, a look back clown this wonderful canyon aiibrds one of the grandest of views ; we cannot describe it, but will have it engraved for future vol- umes. One mile further, and the train stops at the end of the track, at Deer Creek — Near this station, the hills are bare of trees, but covered with shrubs of different kinds, in which sage and moss predominate ; the gulches and ravines bear stunted pine and aspen trees. The chief business of this road is in connection with the mines above, among which are the Smelter's Sultana, Wild Dutchman, Treasure, and Pittsburgh. The Miller Smelting Works are four miles fur- ther up and the mines seven. Charcoal in large quantities is burned near by and taken to the smelting works. There are ten Bee-hive kilns at the station, and fifteen more four miles further up. The yield is 3,000 bushels per month for each 60 cords of wood. Each kiln has a capacity of 20 cords, and is filled and burned three times each month. The price obtained is 14c. per bushel. Bishop Mc- Allister is the jolly chief in charge. Opposite the station, in a cosy little nook, is located the Mountain Glen House, where the tourist will find his wants an- ticipated, and plans can be matured for a ramble over , these mountain peaks ; and there are a number of little tours that can be made from this point each day that will well pay for a week's time devoted to this locality. Returning to the valley, our engine is dispensed with, and only the brakes are used. Then it is that the view is most grand, and the ride one beyond the pow- ers of man with his best goose-quill to describe. Make the tour of the American Fork, and our word for it, it will live in pleasant memor}^ while the sun of life de- scends upon a ripe old age. At American Fork station, we again en- ter the cars on the Utah Southern, and start once more for the south. Three miles brings our train to Pleasant Grove — properly named. In early days it was known as " Battle Creek " — so-called from a fight the early settlers once had here with the Utes. It is a thriving place of 1,000 inhabitants, and like all other Mormon towns, is surrounded with orchards and gardens of fruit, with water flowing through every street. Herds of cattle are now to be seen grazing on the surrounding hills. Eleven miles around, on the rim of the basin, across some sage and some well- cultivated land, our train stops at Provo — This is a regularly incorporated city, with all the requisite municipal offi- cers ; is also the county seat of Utah county, which was first settled in 1849. Provo is 48 miles south of Salt Lake City, at the mouth of Provo Canyon, and on the east bank of Utah Lake, and con- tains an increasing population of 4,000. This place has several fine hotels, chief of which is the Excelsior House. The En- quirer^ is a weekly paper published here. The court-house and public buildings of the city are very good, and all kinds of business is represented here. The princi- pal manufactories are the Provo Woolen Mills, three flouring mills, and three saw- mills. Provo River, which is formed by nu- merous small streams, to the eastward, af- fords the best water power of any stream in Utah. The woolen mill is a noted feature of the city ; the buildings number four, are built of stone, four stories high, and cost, complete, ready for business, $210,000. There are in the mill four "mules " with 3,240 spindles, machinery for carding, dyeing and preparing 2,000 pounds of wool per day, and 215 looms, which turn out superior fabrics, in amount exceeding 1200,000 per annum. The Mormons have a very capacious tabernacle, and the Methodists a fine church, and schools are ample. The Brig- ham Young Academy is located here, which was amply endowed by President Brigham Young some years before his death. A regular stage leaves for Provo Valley, 20 miles distant, to the eastward, on ar- rival of trains. Utah Lake — is a body of fresh water, 30 miles in length and about six miles in width; is fed by Provo River, American Fork, Spanish Fork, Hobble, Salt and Peteetweet Creeks — having its outlet AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 133 through Jordan River, which runs north and empties into Great Salt Lake. Utah Lake abounds in trout, mullet and chubs. Passing along, through a well-cultivated section ofcountry, for five miles,we arrive at Springville — This place was named from a warm spring which flows from Hobble Creek Canyon, above the town. The water from this spring is utilized for running a flouring mill, whereby the mill is enabled to run at all seasons of the year. So much for a hot spring. Coal of good coking quality has been discovered and worked about 40 miles to the eastward, in Strawberry Valley, and a movement is now being made towards the construction of another narrow gauge rail- road to the mines. The population here is about 1,500. Hobble Creek Canyon on the east, was so named by the first Mor- mons that visited it in 1847, who found in the canyon a set of old Spanish hobbles. Rolling along for five miles further through well-cultivated land we arrive at Spanish Fork — a village of 1,800 popu- lation, most of whom are engaged in agri- cultural and pastoral pursuits. The town is to the left of the road on the banks of Spanish Fork River. Butter and cheese are quite a specialty with many of the citizens ; on the table- lands vineyards are numerous, and wine is made to some extent ; wheat is also a good crop. Duck shooting is said to be exceed- ingly fine, and trout are found in great num- bers in all the mountain streams, as well as in the lake. Continuing on through rich farm land, eight miles brings our train to Payson — This is an incorporated city of about 2,200 population, situated to the left of the road, and near the southern end of Utah Lake. The people appear to be well- to-do, and do not trouble themselves much about the " war in Europe," or the " Chi- nese question," Large quantities of ore are hauled here for shipment to the smelt- ing furnaces at Sandy and other places. Three miles further, and two and a half miles eastward, is a beautiful little place called Spring Lake Villa, nestling cosily in beside the mountain and a little lakelet of- similar name. This villa is noted for its abundant and superior fruit of various kinds, where is located a large canning establishment. Five miles further, through less valuable lands than those to the northward, and we arrive at Santaquin — which is a very important point. It contains a population of about 2,000, and is a point from which all pas- sengers, mails, express and freight, leave for the Tintic mining regions, to the west- ward. Here, too, will be found stage lines for the ditt'erent mining towns and camps. To Goshen tlie distance is six miles; Diamond City, 13 miles; Silver City, 16 miles; and Eureka, 21 miles. The Tintic district furnished at this sta- tion, in 1877, 20,000,000 pounds of hema- tite iron ore for shipment to the difterent smelting furnaces to the northward, for a flux in the manipulation of ores. Four miles further, through a rather un- inviting country, and our train stops, at the end of the track, at York — This station is 75 miles south of Salt Lake City. Stages leave here daily, on the arrival of trains for JSTephi, 16 miles ; Filmore, 18 miles; Diamond, 18 miles; Beaver, 140 miles; Pioche, 260 miles; St. George, 278 miles — and to all intermediate points. Great numbers of wagons are loaded at this place with freight for the various mining regions to the West, South, and East. To the south, rises Mount Nebo, with his cap of snow to an altitude of 12,000 feet. Returning to " Zion," our course will now be over the Utah Western Railroad, General offices at Salt Lake City. J . W. Young, President. H. P. Kimball, Superintendent. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge* commenced in 1874, and was completed eagle gate. 134 CROFUTT S XEW OVERLAND TOURIST 1. for twelve miles during the year. In 1875, about thirteen miles more were finished, and in 1877 it was extended to within two miles of Stockton, 37.5 miles from Salt Lake City. The depot in Salt Lake City is located one-half mile west of the Utah Central, on the same street. We will take a run out over this road and note the result. The route is due west, crossing the Jor- dan River the first mile, about one-half mile south of the wagon-road bridge, thence twelve miles to the Hot Springs, at the northeast point of the Oquirrh Moun- tains. This twelve miles is built across the level bottom land, the greater portion of whi.ch is covered with sage-brush and grease-wood, with an occasional patch of '' bunch " and alkali grasses. The soil in most parts is a black vegetable mould with a mixture of fine sand. Some sand beds are noticeable, and near the Hot Springs a deposit of alkali with some yellow clay. The railroad crosses several times on the route the old California wagon road of by-gone days. This bottom now, except to a limited ex- tent near the water, is used for grazing purposes. The whole length of this land is about 50 miles, of which the fir^st 15 is 10 miles average width, the balance averaging five miles wide, and extending to Utah Lake on the south, and when properly irrigated — as we have heretofore noted, a plan now being carried out for so doing — it will be as pro- ductive as the same number of acres in the valley of the famous River Nile, in Egypt. Large herds of cattle and sheep are now to be seen on the bottom, as well as jack rabbits by the legion. Near the hot springs, on the left, notice- able from the amount of steam rising, and the brown,burned appearance of the ground, are some comfortable little farm-houses, and a few good, well-appearing farms. The hot springs spoken of are fresh, and produce a large creek of water. Near, are several store-houses, and the station called Millstone — so named from the fact that at this point the first millstones were quar- ried in the Territory. There are no ac- commodations at present, near, for tourists to stop over. Proceeding along, around the side of the mountain, our train gradually approaches the lake, and five miles from Millstone, we are at Black Rock — This station derives its name from a black-looking rock, sitting out in the lake, about 300 feet distant and 50 feet in height, just after passing a high, rocky cliff on the edge of the Lake. Near the station is Lion's Head Rock, and the highest point is known as Observa- tion Point, so named from the unobstructed view of the surrounding country, which can be had from its summit. Antelope, or Church Island, to the northeast, is 14 miles distant, Kimball's 23 miles ; Goose Creek Mountains, 100 miles northwest; West Mountain, 15 miles west; Oquirrh, close to the south, while the view to the south- west extends to the great rim of the basin, 17 miles distant. On Church Island, large herds of cattle range, and some mines of gold, slate and copper have been discovered. On Car- rington Island, opposite Black Rock, a slate mine of good quality has been discovered, which has been traced 4,500 feet. Opposite the station, away up in the side of the mountain, is the " Giant's Cave " — an opening extending several hundred feet into the mountain side, with a ceiling ranging in height from ten to 75 feet, from which hang stelactites of great beauty and brilliancy. Remains of some of the ancient tribes of Indians, it is said, are still to be found scattered around the floor of the cave. The presence of these re- mains is explained by a tradition among the Indians to the efiect that " many hun- dred years ago, two tribes of Indians were at war with each other, and that the weaker party was forced to take refuge in the cave, but were followed by the enemy, who closed the entrance with huge boulders, forming an impenetrable barrier to their escape^' — and thus their place of refuge became their grave. Leaving Black Rock, our train skirts the lake for a distance of three miles, and stops at Lake Point — twenty miles from Salt Lake City. Here the traveler will find ample accommodation at the " Short Branch Hotel," and the steamer " General Garfield," Cap. Darres, ready to explore the mysteries of the famous " Dead Sea," Great Salt Lake. This arrangement af- fords the first opportunity ever offered' to travelers to behold the marveloiis grandeur with which this inland sea abounds, of which Von Humboldt so truly said, " Here is the beauty and grandeur of Como ar.d Killarney combined." For the last two seasons, Lake Point has AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 135 been a great resort for pic-nic parties, from Zion, who come out, take a trip over the lake and to the islands, have a swim in the lake and a ramble up onto the moun- tains, " make a day of it," and return to the city in the evening. Bath houses are pro- vided for those who prefer them, and every accommodation provided to make those who visit Lake Point feel satisfied and happy. Game in the mountains and on the plains, such as deer, antelope, bears and smaller game are to be had for the neces- sary effort ; ducks are abundant six miles to the eastward, and fish nary one. The mountains are about 1,000 feet above the road, and generally have rounded peaks, covered with small trees, in places, sage and grass in others, and large timber in the inaccessible gulches and ravines, near the summit. Leaving the Point, our course is more to the southward, along the side of the lake, by a few well-cultivated farms, where water is had from the mountain on the left in sufficient quantities for irrigating them. Two miles south, on the left, is " Dobey Rock," a high, isolated rock on elevated ground ; so named after an old Indian, who was buried near. Turning more to the left, and drawing away from the lake, the road follows along a few miles from the base of the moun- tains, beside which is located the small Mormon village of " E. T. City " — named after E. T. Bensen, one of the early settlers. Four and a half miles from the " Point " comes the Half- WAT House — Near are a flouring and a woolen mill. On the opposite side of the valley, to the west, is the town of Grantsville, eight miles distant. It is sit- uated in one of the richest agricultural sections of the State ; population, 2,000. In the background is the West Mountain Range, which rears its peaks full 2,000 feet above the town, and in which are lo- cated some very rich silver mines. Be- yond these mountains is Scull Valley — so named from an Indian fight which once occurred there, after which the ground was left covered wiih bones. Passing on, to the left, note the water- lines on the side of the mountain. Tooele Station— is six miles from the last, and is the one nearest the thriving town of Tooele, which is situated to the left about two miles, close in beside the mountain. The business of the citizens of the town is principally agriculture and fruit raising. It is considered the best fruit and vegetable district in the Terri- tory Tooele is the county seat of Tooele county; population, about 2,000. Along the base of the mountain the land is irri- gated from the little springs and creeks, in the mountain gorges, the waters of M^hich seldom find their way to the lake below. About ten miles over the moun- tain, to the southeast, is located Brigham City. Leaving Tooele, sage and small cedar trees abound, together with a fine, silken bunch-grass; herds of cattle and sheep are numerous. The road is on a high plateau, curving with the mountain more to the westward, and some miles below the lower end of the lake. As we near the lower portion to the great valley, which lays on our right, the land rises, rim-like, and a few hundred yards below the end of the track, rises 500 feet, completely locking in the valley by a mountain range or semi-circle extending in a great arch from the Oquirrh Range, on the east, to meet the range on the west, in one great bend, full two miles in curvature. Here, at the base of this rim, terminates the railroad — and where the terminus must remain for some time. On the south side of this curve, which, on the top, is less than one-half a mile in width, is located the city of Stockton — two miles distant from the end of the railroad. To reach Stockton the Railroad Company must tunnel through the rim, 1,000 feet, exclusive of cuts, at each approach. Stockton is now reached by stage, which also extends its roule to Dry Can- yon, and the Ophir mining districts to the south and west. From Stockton to Dry Canyon, southeast, it is twelve miles ; to Ophir, to the southeast, ten miles ; from Stockton to Salt Lake 39.5 miles. Stockton is in Tooele county, in the northeast corner of Rush Valley, and about one-half mile east of Rush Lake — a sheet of fresh water, two miles long and a half a mile wide. The town contains three smelting furnaces, several stores, hotels, saloons, and about 80 dwelling houses, with a population — by taking in the sur- roundings for two miles — of 600. The Waterman Furnace is on a slope of the mountain, close in the eastern edge of the town ; the Jacob's Smelter about a half a mile west, at the head of the lake, 136 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST and the Chicago Smelter about one mile to the south^yest, on the eastern bank ot the lake. The ores used at these smelters come from the several mining districts in the vicinity to the ea,st, south and west. The huge piles of bullion at the depot piled up, awaiting shipment, attest the business of the place. Rush Valley, in the northern i^ortion of which is Rush lake, is one of the class of valleys so often found in the Salt Lake and Nevada Basins — only varying in size. This is ten miles in length, and about three in width — land-locked, surrounded by mountain ranges, with a lake in the center and no visible outlet. Returning to Salt Lake, "change cars" for Ogden, and again we take a look at the Great Overland trains. But we can- not think of neglecting to take a trip over the little Utah Northern Railroad. Principal office, Logan, Utah. R. M. Bassett President. G. W. Thatcher Superintendent. Moses Thatcher Secretary. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge ; commenced March 29th, 1872, and ex- tended at different times, and completed to Franklin, 80 miles, in 1874. Work is now progressing, and within the present year it is designed to have it completed to Old Fort Hall, on Snake River, 100 miles further — making in all 180 miles. The depot is about half a mile to the northeast of the depot of the Union and Central — and that much nearer the city of Ogden. Leaving the depot, the road skirts the western edge of the city, across rich, broad, and well-cultivated fields, orchards and gardens, with the Wasatch Moun- tains towering to the right. From Ogden, it is 4.5 miles to Harrisville — an unimportant side- track — and a short distance further, at the foot of a spur of the mountains, is one of the many hot springs which abound in the Great Salt Lake and Nevada basins. The springs in cold weather send up a dense cloud of vapor, which is visible for a long distance. They are strongly im- pregnated with sulphur and other mineral substances. The odor arisins; from them is very strong, and by no means pleasant for noma people to inhale. This spring is close on the right of the road, and besides the steam continually arising from it, is marked by the red-burnt soil, much re- sembling a yard, where hides are tanned. From the cars an occasional glimps of Salt Lake can be obtained, with its nu- merous islands, lifting their peaks far far above the briny waters. The views will be very imperfect; but as we near Promontory Point, and after leaving that place, excellent views can be obtained. On the left, only a few hundred yards away, can be seen the track of the Cen- tral Pacific — and near, the unimportant station of Bonneville on that road. Near are some fine farming lands, which yield large crops of wheat, barley and corn. With the rugged mountains on our right and the waters of the lake seen at times on our left, we find objects of interest con- tinually rising around us Far up the sides of the mountain, stretching along in one unbroken line, save where it is sun- dered by canyons, gulches, and ravines, is the old water-mark of the ancient lake, showing that at one time this lake was a mighty sea, washing the mountain sides sev- eral hundred feet above us. The old water- line is no creation of the imagination, but a broad bench, whereupon the well-worn rocks, the rounded pebbles, and marine shells still attest the fact that once the wa- teis of the lake washed this broad upland. Beneath the highest and largest bench, at various places, may be seen two others, at about equal distances apart, showing that the waters of the lake have had three dif- ferent altitudes before they reached their present level. We are gradually rising up on to a high bench and will continue along near the base of the mountains for the next thirty miles. In places the view will be grand. The Great Lake at the southwest with its numerous islands in the distance, the well- cultivated fields in the foreground, together with the orchards and rippling rills from the mountain springs, which we cross every few minutes, make a beautiful picture ; then back of all, on the east, rises the Wa- satch, peak upon peak, towering to the skies. From the last station it is 14 miles to WiLLARD — This is a quiet Mormon town of 700 inhabitants, and contains some fine buildings, but the greater portion are built of logs and adobe, yet neat and cosy. Most of the fences are of small willows inter- woven through large willow stakes stuck in the ground. The mountains near this town present indications which would as. 136 and tott the ] com the The pilet busi R of ^\ of V and Thi^ thre by cent R' for the not the K. M G. W Mosj T com tenc! Fra pro| it h For — m aboi dep« mu( L. wesi bro£ and tain F H trac foot the the The den; a 1( prei sub! is vi for ! clos the FALLS OF THE WILLA TE RIVER, OREGON. (See Annex No. 37.) (9.) AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 137 ENTERING THE PALISADES OF THE HUMBOLDT. sure the " prospector " that they were rich in various minerals. Strong evidences also exist of the great volcanic upheaval which once lit up this country with its lurid tires, most effectualy demolishing many philo- sophical theories, leaving their origina- nators to study nature more and books less. Near the city, in the first range of hills, is the crater of an extinct volcano, which covers several acres. The masses of lava laying around, its bleak, barren, and deso- late 'appearance would seem to indicate that, comparatively speaking, not many years had elapsed since it was in active operation. Leaving Willard, our course is more to the left, with broad fields and some fine dwelliDgs; then a strip of sage and alkali; and eight miles north we reach Brigham — This is the county seat of Box Elder county, situated near the mouth of Box Elder and Wellsville Canyon. Like Willard, it nestles close under the shadow of the Wasatch, and is embowered in fruit trees. Population, 1,800. The buildings are mostly of adobe. A thriving trade and rapidly increasing population attest the importance of the place. The public buildings include a court-house and tabernacle, two hotels, and no saloons. From Brigham our course is more to the left, following around the great arc of the mountains, as well as the old Montana stage road. Call's Fork — is eight miles from Brig- ham, and is a little collection of houses, close in beside the mountain on the right. All around this mountain base are, at intervals, springs — some are cold and some are very hot-water — well-cultivated fields and alkali beds, little lakes, and sage-brush knolls, rich soil and large crops ; then occur barren waste and nary shrub. Two and a half miles further is HoNEYViLLE — All! here we have it ! a dozen stone and adobe houses on a sage-brush honey. Bear River and valley is now on the left, as is also the city of 138 CROFUTT S NEW OVEKLAND TOURIST Corinne, about six miles distant to the southwest. When this road was first built, a track extended to Corinne, which has in later years been taken up and abandoned, the why ! I will never tell you. Deweyville is five miles further, around which, are some good farms and a gristmill. Curving around the point of the mountain and heading for the north, up Bear Yallej^ the grade increases ; sage is the rule, pines and cedars appear in the mountain gorges, and up we climb. To the west on the opposite side of Bear River, about five miles above the station, is lo- cated a village of Shoshone Indians, about 100 in number. Their tepees — lodges— can be plainly seen. These Indians took up this land in 1874, under the pre-emption laws of the United States, and abandoned their tribal relations. They own some large herds of cattle and bands of horses, and are very quiet and peaceably disposed. Passing on up a heavy grade through deep cuts for five miles and we are at Hamptons — a regular eating station; good meals are served in a rustic way for 50 cent-*. Just before reaching this station, the road cuts through a spur of the mountain that juts out to the westward into the val- ley, leaving a high, isolated peak. Let us climb this peak and take a look. To the north, six miles the Bear River canyons through a low spur of the Wasatch which reaches away to the northwest. To the west of this spur lies the Malad Valley, and Malad River ; the latter and the Bear come close together into the valley, imme- diately to the west of wiicre we stand ; then flow close together down the valley to the south parallel for ten miles before they unite, in some places not more than 20 feet apart. To the west of this valley rise the long range of the Malad Mountains, Avhich, commencing near Corinne, runs nearly north to opposite this point, and then bears away to the northwest. Neither the Bear nor Malad valleys, both in sight, are cultivated; cattle and sheep are the only signs of life noticeable. Leaving Hampton, our roud is up a 100 foot grade, curving around to raise the spur of the Wasatch above alluded to, through which Bear River canyons a few miles to the northward. Finally the Summit — is reached and passed four miles from Hampton and w<3 curve to the east and then to the south, around the nar- row spur alluded to, which separated Bear Valley from Cache Valley. From the Summit we have been rapidly descending into Cache Valley, which is on our left, and is one of the most productive in Utah Territory. The valley heads in tha Wasatch Mountains, northeast of Ogden, and is 40 miles long with an average width of six miles, to where it intersects Marsh Valley on the north, five miles dis- tant. The Logan River runs through the lower portion of this valley, and is com- posed of the Little Bear, Blacksmith Fork, and Logan creeks, making a stream of ample volume to irrigate all the land in the valley, much of which is yet open for pre-emption. In an ordinary season the shipments from this valley average 500 car-loads of wheat, 200 car-loads of oats, and 100 car- loads of potatoes, most of which go to California. Wheat often yields 50 bushels to the acre. Mekdon — is the first station from the Summit, 5.5 miles distant, on the west side of the valley, and contains about 700 population. From Mendon our course is due east to Logan, across the valley, which runs north and south, but before we start, let us note the towns situated on the arc, around the upper portion of the valley. The first is Wellsville, six miles south, on the west side, population 1,300. Paradise comes next, with a population of 500. Continu- ing around to the east and then north, is Hyrum, population 1,400. Next comes Millville, population 600 ; and then Provi- dence, population 550. This latter village is the first south of Logan. Looking north from Mendon, northeast of the point where we crossed the ridge at Summit, and eight miles from Mendon, is located the village of Newton, population oOO ; three miles further is Clarkston, pop- ulation 500; next six miles is Weston, pop- ulation 500 ; next is Clifton, ten miles, pop- ulation 800 ; then Oxford, seven miles, pop- ulation 250. These are all Mormon vil- lages, are all surrounded with well-culti- vated lands, orchards, vines and gardens, with the sparkling waters from the adjoin- ing mountains rippling through all the streets, fields, gardens and lands, and with crops and fruits of all kinds abundant ; and, taking them all in all, they are prosperous and thriving communities, in which each one of the community seems to strives to ad- vance the good of all. They are an in- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 139 dustrious, hard-working, self-reliant and apparently contented people, always living within their means. The population of the valley is upwards of 15,000. Leaving Mendon to cross the valley, we pass through a farm of 9,643 acres, upon which were 30 miles of fencing, houses and out buildings, which were deeded by Pres- ident Brigham Young, just before his death, to trustees, in trust to endow a col- lege at Logan City, to be called " Brigham Young College." The trustees are leasing the land for the purpose of creating a fund to carry out the bequest. These lands are some of the most valuable in the Terri- tory. Crossing Logan River, and seven miles from Mendon, our train stops at the city of Logan — This city is the county seat of Cache county, situated on the east side of Cache Valley, just below the mouth of Logan Canyon. It is the largest place in the valley — containing a population of about 3,000, most of whom are engaged in agricultural and pastoral pursuits. Water runs through the streets from the mountains and orchards; gardens, fruits and flowers abound. The city contains two flouring mills, a woolen mill, the railroad machine and re- pair shops, one hotel — the Logan House — and a branch of the Z. C. M. I., besides various small mechanical establishments. The new Tabernacle is of cut stone, and seats 2,500 people. On the east side of the city, a round plateau rises 300 feet above the streets, pro- jecting out from the average front of the mountain range 2,000 feet, into the valley. This plateau is about 500 feet in width, and shaped like the end of a monster canal boat, bottom upwards. Standing on the point, and looking west, the city is close at our feet, the broad valley beyond, and in the distance the spur of the Wasatch, over which we came from Bear Valley. To the right and left, the valley is spread out in all its beauty, and no less than 14 towns and villages are in sight, surrounded with mountain ranges, which rise, range upon range, and peak overtooping peak, the highest of which are rooed in a per- petual mantle of snow. The view is one of the most beautiful that one could con- ceive. Upon this plateau, the Mormon people who reside in Cache and the four adjoin- ing counties, have elected to build a mag- nificent temple, in which to conduct the rites and ordinances of the Mormon church. The main building will be of slate stone, 171 feet long, 95 feet wide, and 86 feet high, with a grand tower 144 feet high from base to pinnacle, and will cost, when completed, in about four years, $450,000 to $500,000. Around the outer rim of the plateau, a double row of trees have been set out, and the water from the mountain above con- ducted in little ditches all around and over the entire grounds. Leaving Logan, our road runs north, along the base of the Wasatch Mountains — having made a great horse-shoe curve from the summit. From Logan it is five miles to Hyde Park Station — The town of Hyde Park is to the right, close beside the mountain, one mile distant, and contains a population of about 800. One mile further, and after crossing Summit Creek, which is lined with cotton- wood trees, comes Smithfield — This is a town of 1,200 population, a short distance to the right of the Boad. Seven miles further is Richmond — another town of 1,200 people, on the right, beside the mountain. These towns are all alike in beauty of sur- roundings, and the description of one is a description of all. They all have water running through the streets, orchards and gardens, and are all laid out with wide streets, by the side of which are rows of trees and good walks. Lewistown — is another small village of 400 people, situated on the opposite side of the valley, four miles distant. Six miles further, and we are at the end of the track, at Franklin — This town is one mile north of the line, between Utah and Idaho, and, consequently, is in Idaho Territory ; popu- lation about 400. It is situated in Cache Valley, Oneida county, Idaho, on Chubb Creek about one mile from the station to the northeast, at the base of the Wasatch Mountains. The countj^ seat of Oneida county is Malad City, 40 miles due wxst. The vil- lages of Weston, Clarkston, Newton, Ox- ford, and Clifton— heretofore alluded to — are to the westward of Franklin, from ten to twenty miles. In Bear Valley, 30 miles east, over the mountains, are the towns of Paris, Montpelier and Bennington, aggre- gating a population of about 1,000. From Franklin, it is eleven miles to 140 ,,5 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Bear River, north, and one mile further to Battle Creek, where it forms a junction with the Bear. There it was in the winter of 1863-4, that Gen. Conner had his cele- brated fight with the Shoshone Indians. Stages leave Franklin dail}^ for the north and west, carrying passengers, mails and express. The fare is 15c. per mile— Tim Henderson, agent. Distances from Frank- lin :— Old Fort Hall, 80 miles ; New Fort Hall, 105 miles ; Tajdor's Bridge, on Snake River, 130 miles; Helena, via Sansbmy, 425 miles; Virginia, 355 miles; Deer Lodge, via Glendale and Butte, 400 miles ; Missouri, via Deer Lodge, 500 miles; Fort Shaw, via Helena, 500 miles; Fort Benton, via Helena, 570 miles ; Deer Lodge, via Helena and Blackfoot, 480 miles; Boze- man and Fort Ellis, via Virginia, 430 miles ; Bozeman, via Helena and Gallatin City, 535 miles; from Franklin to Boise City, via Old Fort Hall, 200 miles. The above distances are authentic. The amount of bullion forwarded by the stage company, as express matter, dur- ing the year of 1877, from Franklin, amounted to $500,000 ; and the amoiuit of freight shipped on wagons to Montana and Idaho during the same time by H. O. Kinney, forwarding agent, was 1,300,000 pounds. Game of all kinds abounds in the valleys and in the mountains, while, along the water courses, wild geese and ducks are legion. The streams, little and big, are full of fish, notably the trout, which are very abundant and bite with a snap that makes an old sportsman feel happy. In fact, in this country, the old sportsman will find his beau ideal of a " happy hunting- ground." Fruit, apples, peaches, pears, cherries, plums, currants, and in fact, all kinds of fruit are raised by the Mormons, in this and adjacent valleys in great abundance. Although we are now in Idaho Territory, and shall speak of the chief towns and the routes to them in another place, we shall pass it by for the present, until we know more about it, and take a look at Montana Territory. This Terrkory lies to the north of Idaho, and is generally considered solely as a mining country. Montana at one time possessed excellent " placer " mines and " gulch diggings," but they have been to a great extent, worked out. Yet there are still some camps where good pay is being taken out, and many of the " old diggings " are being worked over by the " heathen Chinee," with good results. The mining is now mostly confined to quartz, some of which yields rich returns. Although many rich mines of gold have been discovered within her borders, the im- portance of her agricultural resources are not to be ignored. The valleys of the Missouri, Madison, Gallatin, Yellowstone, and many other rivers, possess the very best of farming and grazing lands in quan- tities sufficient to support a large popula- tion. In the mines, enterprise and capital have, and will continue to develop great wealth, but here, as in other mining coun- tries, expensive machinery must be erected and a large capital invested before the mines can be developed and worked with profit, while to the agriculturist and stock- grower Montana presents, with a contin- ually increasing home market, inducements to the poor emigrant second to no section of the United States. The people of the Territory are energetic and persevering, with full faith in the future of their Ter- ritory, and will, in time, render it what they contend it really is, one of the wealthiest sections of the Union. Helena is the capital of the Territory, and contains a population of about 4,500. It has sufi"ered fearfully in the past by fires, which have several times completely de- stroyed the business portion of the city, but the energy and enterprise of her people soon re-built it with substantial materials, brick and stone. The Herald and Gazette^ both daily and weekly newspapers, are pub- lished here. The chief occupation of the people is quartz mining Virginia City— contains a population of 1 ,000. The Montanian, a weekly, is pub- lished here. It is one of the most spicy papers in the far West. Deer Lodge City — is the third in point' of population in the Territory. It contains 1,000 inhabitants, and has one weekly paper, the New Northwest Bozeman — is another thriving town, and the Aoaunt Courier its representative news- paper. The Great National Park is located in a portion of Montana, and the balance in Wyoming, for a concise description of which we refer our readers to Annex No. 26. Returning once more to Ogden, we will now take up the Overland Route. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 141 LELAND STANFORD. Ex-G-overnor Lei and Stanford, President of the Central Pacific Railroad of Califor- nia, was born in the town of Watervliet, Albany county, N. Y., March 9, 1824. His ancestors were English, who settled in the Valley of the Mohawk about the beginning of the last century, Josiah Stanford, father of Leland, was a farmer and promi- nent citizen of the county, whose family consisted of seven sons — Leland being the fourth — and one daughter. Until the age oi twenty, Leland's time was passed at study and on the farm. He then com- menced the study of law, and in 1845 en- tered the law office of Wheaten, Doolittle & Hudley, in Albany, N. Y. In 1849 he moved West, and commenced the practice of law at Port Washington, Wisconsin. Here, in June, 1850, he was married to Miss Jane Lathrop. In 1852, we find him following many of his friends to the new El Dorado. He landed in Ctilifornia July 12, 1852, proceeded directly to the mines, and settled at Michigan Bluffs, on the American River, Placer county, and in a few years he had not only realized a for- tune, but so far won the confidence of the people as to secure the nomination for State Treasurer, in 1859, on the Republican ticket. At this time the Democratic party had never been beaten, and the canvass was made on principle. He was defeated ; but in 1861 — a split-up in the ranks of the dominant party having taken place — he was nominated for Governor, and elected by a plurality of 23,000 votes. How he per- formed the trust, is well known. Suffice it to say, he received the thanks of the Leg- islature and won the approval of all classes. Governor Stanford early moved in the in- terest of the Pacific Railroad ; and on the 22d of February, 1863, while Sacramento was still staggering under the devastat- ing flood, and all was gloomy in the fu- ture, with the whole country rent by civil war, he — all hope, all life and energy — 142 CROFUTT S NEAV OVERLAND TOURIST TIiyCE TJ^BIjE. SALT LAKE DIVISION. OGDEN TO WELLS. R. H. Pratt, Division Sujyerintendent A. G . Fell, Train Dispatcher. WEST FROM OMAHA. Daily Emigrant. 7:45* 8:30 9:05 9:45 10:45 11:45 12:45 3:05 4:20 5:10 5:55 6:30 7:40 8:30 9:20 10:50 11:45 12:45 1:45 2:45 3:45 4:45 5:20 5:50 6:30 6:45 7:25 p m a m p m Daily Express l8t&2dcrs 6:15* 6:40 7:00 7:20 7:40 8:10 8:45 9:10 9.35 9:55 10:10 10:30 11:20 11:45 12 :15 12:50 1:18 1:55 2:25 3:15 3:50 4:20 4:40 4:58 5:20 5:30 5:45 p m a m Distance from Omaha .10:32., .1041.. .1048.. .1056.. .1064.. .1075 . .1084.. .1092.. .1101.. .1108.. .1116.. .1123.. .1135.. .1145.. .1159.. .1166.. .1179.. .1188.. .119S.. .1207.. .1214.. .1224., .1230 , .1235., .1241. .1244., .1250., SACRAMENTO TIME. STATIONS, Lv tOGDEN Av Bonneville Brigham tCorinne Quarry tBlue Creek. ^Promontory Rozel Lake Monument Point Seco tKelto'n Ombey .. Matlin +Terrace Bovine Lucin tTecoma Montello Loray X TOANO Pequop tOtego Independence Moors Cedar Av j:WELLS Lv EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. Elevati'n .4340. .4251. .4240. .4-^29. .4271. .4379. 4905, .4588. 4223. .4226. ,4224. .4222. .4310. .4630. .4619. .4:i46. .4494. .4812. .4999. .5555. . 5970. .6183. 6153. .6004. .6118. .5978. .56-28. Daily Express let «& 2d el's *8:00 7:35 7:15 6:55 6:35 6:05 5:30 4:58 4:20 4:00 3:10 3:20 2:45 2:20 i 1:45 |12:50 'l2:15 lll:50 11:25 10:55 10:30 10:00 9:40 9:20 9:00 8:50 8:25 am a m Daily Emigrant. a m a m 10:00 9:15 8:40 7:35 7:00 6:05 4:00 3:05 2:10 1:20 13:45 12:15 10:55 9:55 8:25 7:30 6:45 5:50 5:05 4:20 3:45 2:50 2:10 1:35 12:55 12:40 pm 12:00*noon + Day Telegraph. % Day and Night Telegraph. * Meals. The passenger's attention is directed to the elevation of each station. shoveled the first earth, and Ma}' 10, 1869, drove the last spike at Promontory, Utah, which completed the Great Pacific Kail- road across the American continent. Central Paciiic Railroad. Official headquarters, corner Fourth and Townsend sts., San Francisco, Cal. Leland Stanforb. . .President. . .San Francisco. C. P. Huntington Viee-Prest New York. Mark Hopkins Treasurer ..San Francisco. £. H. Miller, Jr Secretary. . . '■'• A, N. Towne GenHSupt.. Jno. Corning Asst. " .. T.H.Goodman G.P.&T.A. J. C. Stubbs G.F.A S. S. Montague Chief Eng'v "• B. B. Rebding Land Coin'r " W. H. Porter Auditor " J. R. Watson G. Sup. Agt. E.L.VANBERBEURGH./St^. Teleli " F. Knowlanb, General Eastern Agent., 287 Broadway, N. Y. W. C. Thompson, Gen.EasVn Agt for New Eng. Boston, Mass. As most of the people who read this book — we conclude — are familiar with the history of the building of the Pacific rail- road, and as we have, for nine years past, published a condensed account of it, — the trials, struggles and final triumph of the enterprise — it must suffice for this time for us to give a few facts ancl figures, and then pass on to our review"" of the cities, towns and objects of interest along the road, and in the country adjacent thereto. The first survey was for the Central, over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, made by Theo. D. Judah, in the summer of 1860, followed by a more thorough one in the succeeding The Indians call the telegraph the "whispering spirit." Emigrants, on the plains, are called by the older settlers "pilgrims." "Cayotes" are a small species of wolf. "Jack rabbits" are of the hare family. Infantry Soldiers are called, by the Indians, " heep walk men." AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 143 year, when a passage was discovered and declared to be feasible. In 1863, Congress granted the charter for the Pacific railroad, and the first ground was broken for it by the Central, at Sacramento, Cal., Feb. 22d, 1868, two years and eight months before ground was broken for the Union, at Omaha, Neb. The following will show the number of miles completed by the Central during each year: In 1863, '64 and '65, 20 miles each year; in 1806, 30 miles; in 1867, 46 miles; in 1868, 364 miles; in 1869, 190^^ miles, making 6903^ miles from Sacramento to Prom- ontory, where the roads meet, May 10th, 1869. The whole length of the Pacific rail- road proper, from Omaha to Sacramento, is 1,7763^ miles, of which the Union built 1,085 miles and the Central 690)^ miles. By a subsequent arrangement, the Union relinquished 53 miles to the Central, and the latter purchased of the Western Pacific, in 1869, from San Francisco to Sacramento, the whole of their road 1371/2 miles in length which gave the Central 882 miles of road from Ogden to San Francisco, and made the entire line from Omaha to San Fran- cisco, 1,914 miles. "All aboard," is now tlie order, and our train glides away to the northward through the western suburbs of the city of Ogden, crossing broad bottom-lands, much of which is under cultivation. The Weber River is on the left, and the long high range of the Wasatch Mountains on tlie right. Within a few miles the Ogden River is crossed, and also many irrigating canals. The track of the Utah Northern is on the right, and will continue to be, for the next 24 miles, near the foot of the mountain; and as the towns and objects of note were described on the trip over that road they will be passed in this place. Bonneville— is the first that we pass on the Central. It is 9.9 miles from Ogden, situated near Willard, in the midst of a section of good farming land, which yields large crops of wheat, barley, and corn. Brig'liani — comes next, 7.14 miles further. The town is to the eastward, near the base of the mountains, heretofore de- scribed under the head of the Utah North- ern. Passing Brigham, the road inclines to the left, west, and crosses Bear River on a trestle bridge 1,200 feet long, the piles of which were driven in water 18 feet deep ; and half a mile further, and 7.14 miles from Brigham, we stop at Corinne — This city is not as prosper- ous in its mercantile and forwarding busi- ness as it was several years ago, owing principally to the fact that the Utah North- ern has been extended north too far; and then the taking up of the branch track from the city has entirely cut off the freighting business to Montana and the northern settlements, that formerly went from this place. However, the citizens are by no means blue, but have built a canal from a point 11 miles to the northward, and now conduct the waters of the Malad River down to the city, and not only use it for irrigating thousands of acres of land, but for city and manufacturing purposes, chief of which is a flouring mill which produces about four tons of flour a day. Corinne has three churches, a good school, several hotels, and a weekly newspaper, the Record. Many of the citizens have embarked in the stock-raising business, and are doing well ; the range to the northward is very good. Around the town are many thou- sand acres of land, which only require irrigation and culture to render them pro- ductive in the highest degree. Again Westward! The farming lands gradually give way to alkali beds — white, barren, and glittering in the sun. Now the road curves along the bank of the lake, crossing the low flats on a bed raised several feet above the salt deposits. The channel along the road, caused by excava- tion, is filled with a reddish, cold-looking water. Taste it at the first opportunity, and you will wish that the first opportu- nit,y had never offered. i^narry — is 7.64 miles further west, being a side-track where trains seldom stop, but skirt along the base of the mountains with the lake and broad alkali bottoms on the left. The cars pass over several long and high embankments, and reach the high broken land again at Bine Creek — which is 11.96 miles from Quarry. During the construction of the road, this was one of the hardest " Camps " along the whole line. Leaving the station, we cross Blue Creek on a trestle bridge 300 feet long and 30 feet high. Thence by tortuous curves we wind around the heads of several little valleys, crossing them well against the hillside by heavy fills. The track along here has been changed, avoiding several long tres- tle bridges, and running on a solid em- bankment. 144 CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Through more deep rock cuts we wind around Promontory Mountain until the lake is lost to view. Up, up we go, the engine puffing and snorting with its ardu- ous labors, until the summit is gained, and we arrive at the former terminus of the two Pacific railroads— 8.93 miles from Blue Creek. Promontory— elevation, 4,905 feet- distance from Omaha 1,084 miles; from San Francisco 830 miles — is celebrated for being the point where the connection be- tween the two roads was made on the 10th of May, 1869. This town, formerly very lively, is now almost entirely deserted. The supply of water is obtained from a spring about four miles south of the road, in one of the gulches of Promontory Mountain. The bench on which the station stands would doubtless produce vegetables or grain, if it could be irrigated, for the sandy soil is largely mixed with loam, and the bunch grass and sage-brush grow lux- uriantly. The liRSt Spike— On Monday, the 10th day of May, 1869, a large party was congregated on Promontory Point, Utah Territory, gathered from the four quarters of the Union, and, we might say, from the four quarters of the earth. There were men from the pine-clad hills of Maine, the rock-bound coast of Massachusetts, the everglades of Florida, the golden shores of the Pacific slope, from China, Europe, and the wilds of the American continent. There were the lines of blue- clad boys, with their burnished muskets and glistening bayonets, and over all, in the bright May sun, floated the glorious old stars and stripes, an emblem of unity, power and prosperity. They are grave, earnest men, most of them, who are gath- ered here ; men who would not leave their homes and business and traverse half or two-thirds of the continent only on the most urgent necessity, or on an occasion of great national importance, such as they might never hope to behold again. It was to witness such an event, to be present at AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 145 the consummation of one of the grandest of modern enterprises, that they had gath- ered here. Tliey were here to do honor to the occasion when 1,774 miles of rail- road should he united, binding in one un- broken chain the East and the West. (Sacramento at that time was the western terminus.) To witness this grand event — to be par- takers in the glorious act — this assemblage had convened. All around w^as excite- ment and bustle that morning ; men huny- ing to and fro, grasping their neighbors' hands in hearty gi'eeting, as they paused to ask or answer hurried questions. This is the day of final triumph of tlie friends of the road over their croaking opponents, for long ere the sun shall kiss the western summits of the gray old monarchs of the desert, the work will be accomplished, the assemblage dispersed, and quiet reign once more, broken only by the hoarse scream of the locomotive ; and when the lengthening mountain shadows shall sweep across the plain, flecked and mot- tled with the departing sunbeams, they will fall on the iron rails which will stretch away in one unbroken line from the Sacramento to the Missouri River. The hours passed slowly on until the sun rode high in the zenith, his glittering rays falling directly down upon the vacant place between the two roads, which was waiting to receive the last tie and rails which would unite them forever. On either road stood long lines of cars, the impatient locomotives occasionally snort- ing out their cheering notes, as though they understood what was going on, and rejoiced in common with the excited assemblage. To give efi'ect to the proceedings, ar- rangements had been made by which the large cities of the Union should be notified of the exact minute and second when the road should be finished. Telegraphic communications were organized with the principal cities of the East and West, and at the designated hour the lines were put in connection, and all other business sus- pended. In San Francisco the wires were connected with the fire-alarm in the tower, where the ponderous bell could spread the news over the city the instant the event occured. Baltimore, Philadelphia, Bos- ton, New York, Cincinnati, and Chicago were waiting for the moment to arrive when the chained lightning should be loosed, carrying the news of a great civil victor}^ over the length and breadth of the land. The hour and minute designated ar- rived, and Leland Stanford, President, as- sisted by other officers of the Central Pa- cific, came forward ; T. C. Durant, Vice- President of the Union Pacific, assisted by General Dodge and others of the same company, met them at the end of the rail, where they reverently paused, while Rev. Dr. Todd, of Mass., invoked the Divine blessing. Then the last tie, a beautiful piece of w^orkmanship, of California laurel, with silver plates on which were suitable inscriptions, w^as put in place, and the last connecting rails were laid by parties from each company. The last spikes were then presented, one of gold from California, one of silver from Nevada, and one of gold, silver and iron from Arizona. President Stanford then took the hammer, made of solid silver — and to the handle of which were attached the telegraph wires — and with the first tap on the head of the gold spike at 12, m., the news of the event was flashed over the continent. Speeches w^ere made as each spike was driven, and when all was completed, cheer after cheer rent the air from the enthusiastic assemblage, Then the Jupiter, a locomotive of the C. P. R. R. Co., and locomotive No. 116, of the U. P. R. R. Co., approached from each way, meeting on the dividing line, wdiere they rubbed their brown noses together, while shaking hands, as illustrated. To say that wine flowed freely would convey but a faint idea of the good feeling manifested and the provision made by each company for the entertainment of their guests, and the celebration of the event. Immediately on the completion of the work, a charge was made on the last tie (not the silver-plated, gold-spiked laurel, for that had been removed and a pine tie substituted) by relic hunters, and soon it was cut and hacked to pieces, and the fragments carried away as trophies or me- mentoes of the great event. Even one of the last rails laid in place was cut and battered so badly that it was removed and another substituted. Weeks after the event we passed the place again, and found an enthu- siastic person cutting a piece out of the last tie laid. He was proud of his treasure — that little chip of pine — for it was a piece of the last tie. We did not tell him that three or four ties had been placed there since the first w^as cut in pieces. 146 crofutt's new overland tourist AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 147 In the cars belonging to each line, a sumptuous repast was served up to the in- vited guests. Then, as the sun sank low towards the western summit of Promontory- Point, the long trains moved away with parting salutes from the locomotives, and the celebration was ended, the participants speeding away to their far distant homes, and so closed the eventful day on Prom- ontory Point. For sketch of Great Salt Lake, see Annex No. 21. For Hundant's Survey of route to Oregon, see Annex No. 28. We now resume our westward journey from Promontory. Four miles west (near a gravel track on the north side) can be seen close to the road, on the south side, a sign-board, which, reads, "ten miles op TRACK IN ONE DAY." Again, on the same side, ten miles fur- ther west, another with the same inscrip- tion will appear. These boards mark the track which was laid by the track layers of the Central Pacific company in one dai/, under the immediate charge of J. H. Strowbridge, Superintendent of Construc- tion, H. H. Minkler, track layer, and James Campbell, Superintendent of Division. This undoubtedly is the most extraordinary feat of the kind ever accomplished in this or any other country. Why it was done — During the build- ing of the road, a great rivalry existed be- tween the two companies as to which could lay the most track in one day. This ri- valry commenced early in the year 1868. The " Union " laying six miles; soon after the " Central " laid seven miles, and then again the " Union " seven and a half miles. The " Central " men, not to be outdone, an- nounced that they could lay ten miles in one day. Mr. Durant, Vice-President of the " Union " offered to bet $10,000 that it could not be done, and the " Central " re- solved it should be done. Consequently, on the 29th day of April, 1869, when only fourteen miles of track remained to be laid to meet the "Union" at Promontory Point, and in the presence of Governor Stanford and many prominent men from the East and West, and a committee from the "Union" to note the progress, the work commenced. How IT WAS DONE — -When the car loaded with rails came to the end of the track, the two outer rails on either side were seized with iron nippers, hauled for- ward off the car, and laid on the ties by four men who attended exclusively to this. Over these rails the car was pushed forward, and the process repeated. Behind these men came a gang of men who half-drove the spikes and screwed on the" fish-plates. At a short interval behind these came a gang of Chinamen, who drove home the spikes already inserted and added the rest. Be- hind these came a second squad of China- men, two deep on each side of the track. The inner men had shovels, the outer ones picks. Together, they ballasted the track. The average rate of speed at which all these processes were carried on was one minute and 4.1}^ seconds to every 240 feet of track laid down. Material Required — Those unac- quainted with the enormous amount of ma- terial required to build ten miles of rail- road can learn something from the follow- ing figures : It requires 25,800 cross ties, 3,520 iron rails, 55,000 spikes, 7,040 fish- plates, and 14,080 bolts, the whole weigh- ing 4,362,000 lbs. This material is required for a single track, exclusive of" turnouts." To bring this material forward and place it in position, over 4,000 men, and hun- dreds of cars and wagons were employed. The discipline acquired in the four years since the commencement of the road en- abled the force to begin at the usual time in the morning, calm and unexcited, and march steadily on to "Victory," as the place where they rested at 1 :30 p. m. was called, having laid eight miles of track in six hours. Here this great " Central " army must be fed, but Campbell was equal to the requirements. The camp and water train was brought up at the proper moment, and the whole force took dinner, including many distinguished guests. After the "■hour nooning^'" the army was again on the march, and at precisely 7 p. M. 10 miles and 200 feet had been completed. When this was done, the " Union " Com- mittee expressed their satisfaction and re- turned to their camp, and Campbell sprang upon the engine and ran it over the ten miles of track in forty minutes^ thus dem- onstrating that the work was well done. Soon after leaving Promontory, the grade of the road descends, and 7.93 miles we reach Boisel — situated almost on the edge of Salt Lake. It is an unimportant station, where passenger trains never stop, unless signaled. A few miles further, and we pass the sign-board where commenced the 148 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST work of laying the "ten miles of track in one day." Continuing along on the lake shore, with large bluff on the right, for 9,49 miles further, we pass Lake — another side-track, and 6.98 miles more arrive at M on mil en t — Here, many times, the lake breeze sweeps by, bearing the heavy alkaline and saline odors peculiar to this locality, and peculiarly offensive to inva- lids. Monument Point, a slim, tapering promontory, stretches far out into the lake, covered with excellent grass. We shall not see much more of the article for some time to come, for we are now on what might well be called the American Desert. Leav- ing Monument, it is 7.34 miles to Seco — another side-track of no account, as all is sage-brush. Descending a heavy grade, we sweep around the head of the western arm of the lake, nearing and leav- ing its waters for the last time. Another run of 7.1 miles brings us to Kel ton — or Indian Creek, as it is some- times called. This is a station of more im- portance than any yet passed since leaving Promontory. There are large water-tanks by the road-side, supplied from a spring in the foot-hills some miles to the north- ward. Here the Railroad Co. fi 11 their water- cars — a train of which ruQ daily to supply many of the stations on this division of the road. The Red Dome Mountains show their scattered spurs to the north, and to the southeast Pilot Knob or Peak can be seen lifting its rocky front far above the desert. From this station a daily line of coaches leaves for Idaho and Oregon, on arrival of the cars. The route .passes through Idaho and the eastern part of Oregon, connecting with the steamers of the Oregon Steam Navigation Company at Umatilla, on the Columbia River — through tp Boise in two days ; Walla Walla in four days ; Portland in five and a half days. The Boise Country, to which the line of stages spoken of conveys the adventurous passengers, lies in the southeastern portion of Idado Territory, bordering on Oregon. Extensive mines of gold have been worked there for years, and still continue to attract mucii attention, as rich mines of gold-bear- ing quart-: have been discovered and worked since the placer mines have been partially exhausted. The principal mining country is in that portion generally designated as the Boise Basin, which comprises a scope of country about 150 miles north and south, by a length of about 200 miles. The Boise mines lie north of the Snake or Shoshone River. The principal streams in the mining section are Boise River, Fayette River, Wind Creek, Moore's Creek and Salmon River. The Owyhee mines lie south of the Snake River and War Eagle Mountains. This portion of the mining belt of Idaho is not as extensive as the one j ust mentioned. The ores are mostly silver. Boise City — is the capital of the Terri- tory and county seat of Ada county. Popu- lation about 6,000. The town site was laid out in 1863, and now contains about 700 buildings, a considerable portion of which are of brick and stone. The town is sit- uated in a fine agricultural valley, about two miles wide by 50 long. It is the cen- ter of several stage routes, and also of trade for a large section of country. The States- man, a tri-weekly paper, is published here. Idaho — is the second city in size in the Territory, population about 2,500. It lies 36 miles northeast of Boise City» with which it is connected with stage, and also with Umatilla, Oregon. The ITor^^Z, newspaper, is published here — semi-weekly. Silver City — contains about 2,000 inhab- itants. The buildings are mostly granite. The Avalanche, a weekly paper, represents the interests of the town. We now return to the railroad, and 11.43 miles further, arrive at Onibey — Passenger trains seldom stop here, but roll on 9.87 miles further, to Iflatlin — This station is on the high- land, which sweeps out from the Red Dome Mountains. Here these mountains — low sandstone ridges — are nearer the track, breaking the general monotony of the scene. The road lies on the northern border of a vast waste whereon we see few signs of verdure. The station is mid- way from east to west of the American Desert — which extends over an area of about 60 square miles. Over this vast extent the eye wanders in vain for some green object — some evi- dence that in times gone by this waste supported animal life, or will eventually in years to come. All is desolate in the extreme ; the bare beds of alkali, or wastes of gray sand only meet the vision, if we except now and then a rocky hill more barren than the plains, if such things were possible. Evidently this desert was once the bed of a saline lake, perhaps a portion of the Great Salt Lake itself. The sloping plain sweeps off towards that AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 149 body of water, and in places bends down until its thirsty sands are laved by the briny flood. There are many evidences in support of the theory that it was once covered by those waters, although much higher than the present level of the lake. The saline matter is plainly discernible in many places, and along the red sandstone buttes which mark its northern border. The long line of water-wash, so distinctly seen at Ogden, and other points along the lake shore, can be distinctly traced, and apparently on the same level as the bench at those places. The difference in the alti- tude of the road is plainly indicated by this line, for as we journey westward, and the elevation of the plateau increases, we find that the water-wash line blends with the rising ground and is seen no more. Matlin is an unimportant station, 10.78 miles from Terrace — Here the railroad company have erected work-shops and a 16-stall round-house. To the northward the hills which mark the entrance to the Thousand Spring Valley are plainly seen ; they are brown, bare and uninviting as the country we are passing through. Some mines are reported near, but have not yet been de- veloped. From Terrace it is 10.54 miles to Bovine — Here there is little of interest to note, the face of the country remaining about the same, though gradually improv- ing. Spots of bunch-grass appear at inter- vals, and the sage-brush seems to have taken a new lease of life, indicating a more congenial soil. Continuing on 10.85 miles further we reach liUcin — At this point we find water tanks supplied by springs in the hills at the outlet of Thousand Spring Valley, which lies to the north, just behind that first bare ridge, one of the spurs of the Humboldt Ridge, but a few miles distant. The valley is about four miles wide, and not far from 60 miles long, taking in its windings from this point to where it breaks over the Divide into Humboldt Val- ley. It is little better than one continual bog in the center — the water from tbe nu- merous brackish springs found there standing in pools over the surface. There is good range of pasturage for the cattle in the valley and hills beyond. The old em- igrant road branches ofl' at or near the station, one road passing through the val- ley, the other following nearly the line of railroad until it reaches the Humboldt ma Humboldt Wells. Goose or Hot Spring Creek, a small stream which courses through the valley its entire length, sinks near by the station, rising and sinking at intervals, until it is lost in the desert. Before reaching the next station we leave Utah and enter the State of Nevada. Passing over 11.75 miles of up-grade, our train arrives at Teconia — In 1874 quite an excitement was created among the mining operators by the discovery of rich silver and lead mines, situated about five miles south of this station in the Toano range of moun- tains. A new town was laid out at the mines — called Buel. A smelting furnace was erected at the mines and a run of 200 tons of bullion produced, valued at $360,- 000, which was shipped to San Francisco on one train, creating no small excitement on California street. Indications of coal mines have been found in the vicinity, but no systematic effort has yet been made to develop them. Stock-raising is now the principal busi- ness of this country. To the northward of this station, and in fact for the last two stations, large herds of cattle can be seen, and at the stations, pens and sliutes for shipping. Pilot Peak, a noted landmark which has been visible for the past fifty miles, lies almost due south of this station — dis- tance 36 miles. It is a lofty pile of rocks — the eastern terminus of Pilot Mountains — rising about 2,500 feet above the barren sands. For about half-way from the base to the summit the sides are shelving piles of shattered lock — huge masses crushed to atoms. Above that it rises perpendicularly the summit looking like some old castle when seen at a distance. From Promontory Point looking westward, this vast pile can be seen on a clear day— a dark mass amid the blue haze which bounds the western horizon. To the emigrant, in early days, before the railroad, it was a welcome landmark, point- ing his course to Humboldt Wells or Thou- sand Spring Valley, where he was sure to find water and feed for his weary teams, afier crossing the barren waste. FromTecomaitis 9.56 miles up-grade to Montello— elevation 4,991) feet. The general aspect of the country is changing with the increasing elevation. We ap- l)roach nearer the long, rough ridge of the 1 Goose Creek Rano-e, the sides and gulches 150 CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAXD TOURIST of which afford pasturage and water at intervals. AYe are leaving the barren sands behind us, and the country looks more capable of supporting animal life. Continuing the up-grade — over 550 feet within the next 9.6 miles — we arrive at liOray — a station of little importance to the traveler. From Loray, up we go for 7.1 miles further to ToaiiO — until recently the end of the division. The company have here erected .work- shops and a 14-stall round-house. Toano is centrally located as regards many mining districts in Eastern Nevada, among which are Egan Can3''on, Kinsley, Kern, Patter- son, Ely, Pahranagat and Deep Creek — all of which are under rapid development. A stage line is in operation from this place to Egan Canyon and the Cherry Creek mines, a distance of 90 miles south. Soon after leaving Toano we begin the ascent of Ce- dar Pass, which divides the Desert from Humboldt Valley. The country is more broken, but possessing more vegetation. We have passed the western line of the desert, where, in early days, the travel- worn emigrant wearily toiled through the burning sand, his journey unenlivened by the sight of water or vegetation. One word more, regarding this desert : The term sand is generally applied, when speaking of the soil of the barren wastes which occur at intervals along the road. With one or two exceptions it is a misnomer, though it well applies to the desert we have crossed. Most of the surface of this M^aste is sand, fine, hard and grey, mixed with marine shells and fossilized fragments of another age. There is no evidence on which to found a hope that this portion of the country could be rendered subservient to the use of man, consisting, as it does, of beds of sand and alkali, overlaying a heavy gravel deposit. Ages must pass away before nature's wondrous changes shall render this desert fit for the habitation of man. Continuing on up the ridge, 9.91 miles, we pass Peq aop— and 5.83 miles further Otego— both side-tracks of little im- portance. Then we commence to descend, and 5.6 miles further arrive at Independence — Independence Springs, from which this station derives its name, are near by, and supply an abun- dance of very good cold water. Independence, Clover and Ruby valleys, lie to the southward. The two first named are small and valueless except for grazing purposes. From Cedar Pass a spur, or rather a low range of hills, extends far to the southward. About 70 or 80 miles south of the pass, is the South Fork of the Hum- boldt which canyons through this range, running to the east and north of another range until it reaches the main Humboldt. Although the range first mentioned, after having united with the western range south of the South Fork, extends much farther south, we will follow it only to Fort Ruby, which is situated in the south end of Ruby Valley, near to the South Fork. From this fort to the pass is about 65 miles, which may be taken as the length of the valley. The average width is ten miles from the western range mentioned to the foot-hills of Ruby Range, which hems in the valley to the east. A large portion of this valley is very productive and is occu- pied by settlers — mostly discharged sol- diers from Fort Ruby. In the southeast- ern portion of the valley is Ruby and Franklin lakes, which are spoken of un- der the general term of Ruby Lake, for in high water they are united, forming a brackish sheet of water about 15 miles long by seven in width, which has no out- let. It'is — like Humboldt, Carson and Pyr- amid lakes in the Truckee Desert — merely a reservoir, where the floods accumulate to evaporate in the dry summer. The old stage road, from Salt Lake to Austin, crosses the foot of the valley at Ruby sta- tion. About 20 miles east of the Ruby Range lies Goshoot Lake, another brackish pond, with two small tributaries and no outlet, "rather wider and about the same length as Ruby Lake. About half-way be- tween Groshoot and the railroad lies Snow Lake, about five miles in diameter, possess- ing the same general characteristics as the others. With the exception of the valleys around these lakes and along the water- courses, the country is valueless except for stock-raising. In the Ruby Range rich silver lodes have been discovered, some rock of which has been found to assay as high as $600 per ton. Returning to Independence, we again proceed westward— the country is rolling and broken — and the up-grade continues 6.1 miles to lloore's — on the summit of Cedar Pass. We now have down-grade for 311 miles to the Nevada Desert. In general outline this pass resembles a AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 151 T I Isdl E T J^ B Xj E . HUMBOLDT DIVISION. WELLS TO WINNEMUCCA. G. W. CoDDiNGTON, Divisiou Superintendent. WEST FROM OMAHA. Daily Emigrant and freight. 8:45 9:30 10:05 11 :0O 13:25 12 :47 2:00 3:00 4:20 5:35 8:00 9:15 10:00 11:00 12:00 1:40 2:05 2:40 3:15 4:20 5:40 6:50 7:30 p m a m p m p m Daily Express 1st & 2d el's :55 :15 :25 :45 :15 :23 :50 :15 * :07 ::i5 :15 :45 :05 :30 :00 ::30 * :C5 :24 :40 :09 :40 :06 :20 a m m a ni p m Distance from Omaha. .1250. .1258. .1263. .1270. .1283. .1287. .1298. .1307. .1319. .13:30. .1339 .1349. .1358 .1368. .1379. .1390. .1395. .1403. .1410. .1423. .1436. 1445 . .1451. SACRAMENTO TIME. STATIONS. Lv. DWELLS Ar . Tulasco .Bishop's ..Deeth .tHalleck . ..Peko Ar. Osina tElko Moleen JCarlin Palisade ..Cluro tBe-o-wa-we — Shoshone Argenta ..tBattle Mountain. Piute Coin ... Stone House Iron Point tGolconda Tule .^WINNEMUCCA. .Lv EAST PROM CALIFORNIA. .5483. .5400. .5340. .5227. .5204. .5135. .5065. .4981. .4903. Daily Express l6t&2dcrs .4840.. .4766., 4690.. .46:36.. .4548., .4508., .4506., .4505., .4505., 4421., .4:375.. .4387., .4315.. 6 6 6 5 4; 4; 3; 3; 2: 2: 2; 1; 1: 12 12 11 11 11 10 ;15 ;45 ;33 :18 ;40 :38 :03 :20 * :48 :05 :36 :11 :52 :30 :06 :20 * :C5 :48 SO 05 35 10 55 p m p m a m Daily Emigrant and freight. 11 10 9 9 7 7 6 5 4 3 1 12 11 10 9 7 7 6 5 4 2 1 12 :00 :i5 :45 :00 :45 :2;5 :iO ••25 :20 :20 :30 :25 :35 :35 :25 :50 :15 :25 :40 :20 :40 :25 :45 a m a m p m t Day Telegraph. X Day and Night Telegraph. * Meals. The passenger's attention is directed to the elevation of each station. rather rough, broken plateau, bent upward in the middle, forming a natural road-bed from tlie desert to the Humboldt Valley. It was once covered with scrub cedar, which has been cut off for use by the Railroad Company and others. Some is still ob- tained in the mountains to the northward. About 15 miles to the north a high, craggy peak marks the point where Thousand Spring Valley bends to the southward, and from its divide slopes down to the valley of the Humboldt. Descending 2.65 miles is Cedar — a small side-track, and six miles further brings our train to the end of the Salt Lake Division and to Humboldt Wells. Wells— is now the commencement of the Humboldt Division, where are located the usual round-house and machine shops of a division. The station is 1,250 miles from Omaha, and 664 from San Francisco, with an elevation of 5,628 feet. Owing to the location of railroad shops at this place much improvement is noticeable in the last few years. It contains a population of about 200. The' chief points of interest around the station are the celebrated Humboldt Wells — around which the emigrants, in early times, used to camp while they recruited their teams after a long, hard journey across the desert. The wells are situated in the midst of a beauti- ful meadow or valley, which, from this point, slopes away until it joins with the Humboldt or main valley. The springs, or wells — about twenty in number — are scattered over this little valley ; one from which the company obtain their supply of water being within 200 yards of the road, and about that distance west of the station. A house has been built over it, and the water is raised into the tanks by means of an engine. 152 CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST These wells would hardly be noticed by the traveler, unless his attention was called to them. Nothing marks their presence except the circle of rank grass around them. When standing on the bank of one of these curious springs you look on a still surface of water, perhaps six or seven feet across, and nearly roun no current dis- turbs it; it resembles wcjI more than a natural spring, and you 1 uk around to see the dirt which was taken therefrom when the well was dug. The water, which is slightly brackish, rises to the surface, seep- ing off through the loose, sandy loam soil of the valley. No bottom has been found to these wells, and they have been sounded to a great depth. Undoublxlly they are the craters of volcanoes, long since extinct, but which at one time threw up this vast body of lava of which the soil of Cedar Pass is largely composed. The whole face of the country bears evidence of the mighty change which has been taking place for centuries. Lava in hard, rough blocks ; lava decomposed and powdered; huge blocks of granite and sandstone in the foot-hills, broken, shattered and thrown around in wild confusion, are some of the signs indicative of an age when desolation reigned supreme. The valley in which the wells are situated is about five miles long by three wide, covered with a luxuri- ant growth of grass. It is excellent farm- ing land, capable of producing luxuriant crops of vegetables, grain or grass. The low hills afford an extensive "range" and good grazing. The transition from the parched desert and barren upland to these green and well-watered valleys is so sud- den that it seems like the work of magic. One moment in the midst of desolation, the next in the midst of the green valleys redolent with the aroma of the countle.-s flowers which deck their breasts. Rich mineral discoveries have been made about 35 or 40 miles southeast of Wells — east of Clover Valley — in the John- son & Latham district. The veins are re- ported large, well-defined, and rich in sil- ver, copper and lead; large deposits of iron ore have also been found. The dis- trict is well supplied with wood and water, and easy of access from the railroad. A stage runs through the district, extending 100 miles south to Shellburn, near the old overland stage road, in the Shellcreek mining district. A stage line is also in operation to the Bull Run district. Stock-raising- occupies the attention of most of the settlers about the Wells, and to the northward. Leaving Humboldt Wells we proceed down the valley for a few miles, when we enter the main valley of the Humboldt, one of the richest agricultural and grazing valleys to be found in the State. The soil is a deep, black loam, moist enough for all purposes without irrigation, from 15 inches to two feet deep. This portion of the Hum- boldt extends for about 80 miles in length, with an average width of ten miles, nearly every acre included therein being of qual- ity described. From Osino Canyon to the hoad-watc rs of the valley is occupied by settlers who have taken up hay ranches and stock ranges. Th river abounds m fish and the foot-hills with deer and other game. The Humbotdt River ris^s in the Hum- boldt Mountains, northwest of Cedar Pass, and courses westerly for about 250 miles, when it bends to the south, emptying into Humboldt Lake, about 50 miles from the Big Bend. It is a rapid stream for most of the distance, possessing few fords or con- veuient places for crossing. The railroad follows down its northern bank until it reaches Twelve-mile Canyon, about 16 miles west of Carlin. Here it crosses to the south side of the river and continues about 170 miles, when it crosses again and leaves the river, skirting the foot-hills in full view of the river and lake. The main stream has many varieties of fi.sh, and at certain seaso s of the year its -^ aters are a great resort for wild ducks and geese. Where it enters the lake the volume of water is much less than it is 100 miles above, owing to the aridity of the soil througli which it passes. Of the valleys bordering it we shall speak separately, as each division is totally distinct in its gen- eral features. The " old emigrant road " can be distinctly traced along the river from its head to its source. From W"?lls, contiuuing down grade, it is 7.6 miles to Tulasc® — a small side-track, five miles irom Bislaop's — This is another unimpor- tant side-track, where Bishop's Valley unites with the Humboldt. This valley is 60 miles long, with an average width of five miles. It is very fertile, being watered by Bishop's Creek, which rises in the Hum- boldt Mountains near Humboldt Canyon, about 70 miles to the northeast, and winds through the valley. It is a narrow, deep AND rACIFIC COA.ST GUIDE. 153 Stream, abounding in many varieties of fish, among which are trout of excellent quality. Deeth — is passed 7.7 miles from Bishop's, and 12.9 miles furthei we arrive at Halleclc— At this sta- tion Government stores are left for Fort Ral- leck, a militar}' station on the opposite side of the river. At the foot of the mountain — about twelve miles distant from the station — can be seen some settlers' buildings, which are situated on the road to the post. The military post is hid from view by the inter- vening hills. It is sit- uated on an elevated plateau, which lies par- tially behind the first range,debouchiDg thence in a long upland, which extends some distance down the river The valleys which lie among the hills, as well as this upland, are settled, and have proved very pro- ductive. Wheat, barley and vegetables are ex- tensively cultivated, and a ready market is found along the railroad for the surplus crop. Peko — is an unimportant station 3.3 miles west of Halleck. Just af(er leaving the station we cross the north fork of the Humboldt on a truss bridge. This river, where it unites with the main stream, is about of equal size. It rises about 100 miles to the north, and receives as tribu- taries many small creeks and rivulets which are well stocked with various kinds of fish. The valley of the North Fork is from five to seven miles wide and covered with a heavy growth of grass, and, like the main valley, is susceptible of a high state of cultivation. Wheat, barley and vege- head of this valley are many smaller ones' each tributary stream having its own sepa- rate body of valley land. Some are perfect gems, nestled among the hills and almost surrounded by timber. Here game in abun- dance is found— quail, grouse, hare, deer and bear, and sometimes a "mountain lion." The tourist, angler, and hunter v/ill find enough to occupy them pleasantly for a short stay should they choose to visit this region, 'in the main and smaller valleys are many thousand acres of Government land unclaimed, excepting that portion owned by the Railroad Company. The Humboldt and all its tributary val- tables of all kinds, where cultivated, yield leys, as a range for stock have_ ^^^^- handsome returns. The seasons are long perior west of the Rocky Mountains. The enough, and the absence of early and late i winters are mild— snow rarely tallmg frosts insures a matured crop. Around the sufficiently deep to render it necessary to 154 oro?"utt's new overland tourist feed the stock. Wild cattle are found lu the valleys aud among the hills, which have never received any attention or care. Stock-raisers are turning their attention of late to this country and find it very remu- nerative. The range is not confined to the valley alone, the foot-hills and even the mountain sides produce the bunch-grass in profusion. Wherever sage-brush grows rank on the hill-sides, bunch-grass thrives equally well, OsiiiO — is 11.8 miles down the valley from Peko — a signal station at the head of Osino Canyon, where the valley suddenly ends. At this point the northern range of the mountains sweeps down to the river bank, which now assumes a tortuous course — seeming to double back on itself in places — completely bewildering the traveler. Across the river the high peaks of the opposite chain rise clear and bold from the valley, contrasting strongly with the black, broken masses of shattered mountains among which we are winding in and out, seemingly in an endless labyrinth. Now we wind round a high point, the rail lying close to the river's bank, and next we cross a little valley with the water washing against the opposite blufls, half a mile away. A dense mass of willow covers the bottom lands through which the river wanders. On around another rocky point and we are in a wider portion of the canyon, with an occasional strip of meadow land in view, when suddenly we emerge into a beautiful valley, across which we speed, the road curving around to the right, and 8.8 miles from the last station we arrive at KIko — The county seat of Elko county; population about 1,200. Elko is a regular eating station for all trains from the East and West. The town formerly consisted of wood and canvas houses — now the latter class is rapidly being replaced by some- thing more substantial. During the last few years the town has improved mate- rially. The State University, which cost $30,000, is located here, just to the north- ward of the town. At this station — and almost every one to the westward — can be seen representatives of the Shoshone or Piute Indians, who come around the cars to beg. Any person who withes to tell a big " whopper" would say, they are clean, neatly dressed, "child-like and bland," and perfumed with the choicest attar of roses, but an old plainsman would reverse the saying in terms more expressive than elegant. Near the town some Warm Springs are attracting attention. The medicinal quali- ties of the water are highly spoken of. A hack plies between the hotel and the springs, making regular trips for the ac- commodation of visitors. The rich silver mining district of Cope is about 80 miles due north of Elko, near the head waters of the North Fork of the Humboldt, bordering on the Owyhee coun- try. Some very rich mines have been dis- covered and several quartz mills erected, in that district, but the more recent dis- coveries are in Tuscarora district about 50 miles north, and are said to be very ricb. Stages leave Elko daily for Mountain City — north, in Cope district — 80 miles dis- tant, and all intermediate towns and camps. Stages also run to Railroad district — south 25 miles, and to Eureka district, 100 miles ; also a weekly line to the South Fork of the Humboldt and Huntington valleys. Large quantities ot freight arrive at, and are re-shipped from this station on wagons, for the various mining districts to the north an 1 south. Another important business that has sprung up at Elko, within the last few years, is cattle-raising. Elko county con- tains more cattle than any other two coun- ties in the State, and Elko ships more cattle than any four stations on the road, being amply provided with all the facilities — roomy yards, shutes, etc., for a busi- ness that is rapidly increasing, and is des- tined, before many years, to far exceed all others in the State. This section is well watered by rapid mountain streams, and the country abounds in game of all kinds — a hunter's paradise. The valley of the Humboldt, for twenty miles above and below Elko, cannot be ranked as among the best of its bottom-lands, though it is susceptible of cultivation to a considerable degree. But a narrow strip is meadow, the remainder being higher, gravelly land, covered with sage-brush and bunch-grass. Without irrigation it is use- less for agricultural purposes. Passing down from Elko — the valley dotted with the hamlets of the rancher for about nine miles — we come opposite the South Fork of the Humboldt. This stream rises about 100 miles to the south- east. It canyons through Ruby Mountains, and then follows down the eastern side of one of the numerous ranges, which. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 155 under the general name of the Humboldt Mountains, intersect the country. For portions of the distance there is fine valley land along the stream, ranging from one to seven miles wide, adapted to culti- vation, but, as a body, it is inferior to either the Main or North Fork valleys. How- ever, the land is all admirably adapted for grazing purposes. Moleen — is a signal station, 1 1 .8 miles west of Elko. After leaving this station the valley presents a changed appearance. The meadow lands are broad and green, extending over most of the valley; on the right the bluffs are high and covered with luxuriant bunch-grass. Soon the meadows are almost entirely closed out, and we en- ter Five Mile Can^^on. Through this the river runs quite rapidly ; its clear waters sparkling in the sunlight as they speed along, while occasional narrow strips of meadow land are to be seen at times. The scenery along this canyon is hardly surpassed by the bold and varied panorama presented to our view along the base of the snow-capped mountains through which the river and railroad have forced their way. Soon after entering the canyon we pass several isolated towers of conglomerate rock, towering to the height of nearly 200 feet. Leaving this canyon, we find Susan Valley, another strip of good farming- land, about twenty miles long, by four wide, bordering the East Fork of Maggie's Creek. Among the foot-hills of Owyhee Range, to the northward, are many beauti- ful, fertile valleys, well watered by moun- tain streams, waiting only the advent of the settler to transform them into produc- tive farms. Timber is plenty in the ra- vines and on the hill-sides — sufficient for the wants of a large population. Passing on to near the next station, we cross Mag- gie's Creek, which empties into the Hum- boldt from the north. This stream is named for a beautiful Scotch girl, who, with her parents, stayed here for a time "re- cruiting their stock" in the old times when the early emigrants toiled along the river. It rises in the Owyhee Mountains, about 80 miles to the northward. The valley through which the stream flows is from three to five miles wide and very fertile. It extends to the base of the mountains, about 70 miles, and is now mostly occupied by stockmen. The stream affords excellent trout fishing, and game of various kinds abounds on the hills bordering the valley. Some time since. a wagon road was surveyed and located up this valley to Idaho Territory. From Moleen, it is 11.6 miles to Carlin — This is quite a busy station, of about 600 population. Here are located the offices of Humboldt Division, and the division workshops. The latter arc of wood and consist of a round-house of 16 stalls, a machine, car and blacksmith shop. The railroad was completed to this place Dec. 20, 1868. To the south of Carlin, from 15 to 60 miles, are located mines rich in gold, sil- ver, copper and iron. To the northward, rich discoveries have been made, extend- ing to the Owyhee country. In both these sections new mining districts have been located, and the attention of experienced capitalists is being attracted thereto. Mary's Creek — rises three miles north and enters the Humboldt at Carlin. It rises in a beautiful lakelet nestle.d among the hills and bordered by a narrow slip of fine valley land. The valley of the stream, and that portion surrounding its head waters, is occupied by settlers. Proceeding down the river from Carlin, for some distance the green meadows con- tinue fair and wide ; then the sloping hills give place to loftv mountains, which close in on either hand, shutting out the valley. From the appearance of this mountain range one would suppose that it had ex- tended across the valley at one time, form- ing a vast lake of the waters of the river, then some mighty convulsion of nature rent the solid wall asunder, forming a pas- sage for the waters which wash the base of the cliffs, which are from 500 to 1,000 feet high. This place is generally known as The Palisades — Humboldt or Twelve Mile Canyon, although it does not possess similar points of interest with Echo or Weber canyons, yet in many par- ticulars the scenery is equally grand. The absence of varied coloring may be urged against its claims to equality with those places, but, on the other hand, its bleak, bare, brown walls possess a majestic and gloomy grandeur which coloring could not improve. In passing down this canyon, we seem to pass between two walls which threaten to close together ere we shall gain the outlet. The river rolls at our feet a rapid, boiling current, tossed from side to side of the gorge by the rocks, wasting its fury in vain attempts to break away its prison walls. The walls in places have crum- bled, and large masses of crushed rocks 156 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST slope down to the river brink. Seams of iron ore and copper-bearing rock break the monotony of color, showing the exist- ence of large deposits of these materials among these brown old mountains. Now we pass "Red Cliff," which rears its bat tered frontlet 800 feet above the water, ^ A colony of swallows have taken possession of the rock, and built their curious nests upon its face. From out their mud pal- aces they look down upon us, no doubt wondering about the great monster rushing past, and after he has disappeared, gossip- ing among themselves of the good old times when his presence was unknown in the canyon. Now we pass "Maggie's Bower," a brown arch on the face of the cliff, about 500 feet from its base. We could not see much bower — unless it was the left bower, for we left it behind us. Twisting in and around these projecting cliffs, 9.1 miles from Carlin, we reach Palisade — a station, in the midst of the Palisades, and apparently locked in on all sides. This is a busy place for a small one of only 200 population, as it is the junction of the Eureka & Palisade rail- road, where are located their machine and workshops. Most of the box and flat cars of this company are made here in their own shops. The amount of freight han- dled at this station is enormous. Passen- gers can, almost always, see large piles of base bullion pigs piled up at the freight house, awaiting shii^ment. This bullion is mostly freighted here from the smelting furnaces at Eureka, by the Eureka and Palisade railroad, which alone handled 31,038,884 pounds during the year 1877. One great item of freight taken down over this road — the E. &. P. — is timber from the Sierra Nevada Mountains, for use in timbering up the mines at Eureka. Palisade, beside the machine shops above named, has several large build- ings, used by the Railroad Company, for freights and storage and one a fine, com- modious passenger station; these with several stores, hotels, restaurants and saloons make up the town. The station is supplied with water from a huge tank, situated upon the mountain side, to the north, 300 feet above the sta- tion. This tank in turn is supplied from springs situated further up the mountain, that never fail in their supply. Now, as we started out to see what was worth seeing, let us take a run down over the road that comes in here and note what can be seen. ^Eureka ^ Palisade Railroad. Principal Office, Eureka, Nevada. E. Mills, President, Eureka. P. Everts Gen' I Sup't Eureka. I. F. LAWLER-.G^ewVi^. P. & T. Agt... Palisade. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, commenced in December, 1873, and com- pleted to Eureka in October, 1874, and is 90 miles in length. Passenger trains leave for the South on arrival of trains on the Central, and arrive in time to connect for either the East or West. The trains make full 20 miles an hour, and the cars are as commodious and nice as on an}^ road in this country. Leaving Palisade we cross the Humboldt River and start for the West, the C. P. on the north side of the river and our little train on the south side. But a few hun- dred yards from the station we curve around to the left, while the C. P. makes a similar one to the right and is soon lost to view. The general course of our train is south, following up Pine Valley, which is, for the first ten miles, covered with sage- brush — as is also the surrounding hills. Bullion — is the first station on the bills, eight miles from Palisade, but we pass it, and the valley widens and 4.25 miles fur- ther is over one mile in width. Now our train is at Evans — a simple side-track, important only to a few settlers near, who are culti- vating small fields and watching herds of cattle and sheep, which find good ranges on the hills, ravines, and neighboring valleys. Some fields are fenced, for the protection of the grass, which is cut for hay. The Cortez Mountains are on the west — the right side — and the Diamond range on the left. Willard's — is 15 miles from Palisade, and four miles from Hay Ranch — This station is the first from Palisade where anything like busi- ness is to be seen. Here the Railroad Com- pany have 2,500 acres of bottom land fenced, on which they cut annually about 1,000 tons of hay, which they bale and store away in those long warehouses to be road. The com- the end of their road at Eureka, and — in connection with it — to Pioche and all intermediate places. These teams are composed of 18 mules each, with three and sometimes four seen on the right of the pany run freight teams from AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 157 AMERICAN RIVER CANYON. Near Shady Run, Sieira Nevada Mountains wagons coupled together — as illustrated on page 67 — employing from 300 to 400 mules, each team hauling from 30,000 to 40,000 lbs. In winter, when their mules are not in use, tliey are kept at this station, and the hay is harvested by the company and used for their own stock. Continuing on up the valley 9.31 miles, we come to Box Springs — but trains do not stop only on signal, and nine miles further stop at Mineral, — This is a regular eating sta- tion, and in fact is the only one on the road. The meals cost $1.00, and are of the sub- stantial order, that makes bone and sinew. To the east is located the Mineral Hill Mine, once the most productive in the State, but it proved to be a " pocket " and the original owners, after taking out sev- eral millions of dollars, sold their mine to an English company — who, until within the last year, have allowed it to remain idle. It is now being worked with good prospects. From Mineral, it is 5.5 miles to Deep Wells — so named for a deep well that was dug near by, to procure water for the freight teams that were in the habit of traveling this road. The enterprising "Pil- grim" who dug the well was wont to charge $1.00 for sufficient water to water an 18 mule team, or " four skins full for a quar- ter." From Deep Wells the route is over a sage-brush country, rough and bluffy, for seven miles, to Alpha— a small station, near where kilns of charcoal are burned for use at the smelting furnaces. To the west of this station is a broad valley, over which range large herds of cattle. Willow Creek, a small stream, is crossed, and ten miles from Alpha is Pine Station — another place where charcoal burning is the principal busi- 158 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ness. Cedar trees are noticeable along on the bluifs as we pass by ; sage is abund- ant, and jack-rabbits are numerous and very large — they call them " narrow-gauge mules " in this country. Cedar — is the next station, three anci-a- half miles from Pine. The country is rough and broken, and sage predominates ; the grade is heavy and the road crooked — twisting and turning for 7.5 miles to Summit — a station on the dividing ridge between Pine Valley on the west and Dia- mond Valley on the east. The face of the country is not very inviting, excejit for those " narrow-gauge mules." Near the summit the old overland stage road crosses from Jacob's Wells on the east to Austin on the west. From the summit the road enters Dia- mond Valley, and follows it up to Eureka, the road making, between Summit and Gardner Pass — six miles from Summit — a great horse-shoe curve, and fairly doubling back upon itself to get around the projecting spurs that shoot out from the range of high bluffs on each side. Continuing along up the narrow valley nine miles, we reach D I A M o N D — an unimportant station, and another run of twelve miles brings our train to the end of the road at £areka — This city is 90 miles south of Palisade, and contains, with the near surroundings, a population of 6,000, nearly all of whom are engaged in mining and de- pendent pursuits. Besides the usual num- ber of stores, hotels and small shops, there are two 80-stamp mills, seven smelting works and 16 furnaces, with a capacity of 50 tons of ore each, daily. These extensive establishments, running night and day, make business pretty llvel}^ and will ac- count for the quantities ot base bullion hauled over the railroad to Palisade, as above noticed. Of the hotels, the/ackson and the Parker are the principal ones. There are two daily papers, the Scnt/nel and the Repuhlican. The Ruby Hill railroad, really an ex- tention of the Eureka & Palisade, runs from the depot at Eureka around the various smelting and refining works and mines of the different mining companies, and around Eureka, delivering freight and handling ores. This road is about six miles in length. The most prominent mines at Eureka are Eureka Consolidated, Rich- mond Consolidated, the K. K., the Jack- son, Hamburg, Matamoras and Atlas. Stages connect at Eureka, carrying pas- sengers, mails and express to the various mining towns and camps in the adjoining country; to Hamilton, 40 miles, daily, which runs through the Ward and Pioclie ; distance to Ward, 100 miles; Pioche, 190 miles ; to Tybo, 100 miles ; Austin, 80 miles ; tri-weekly stage to Belmont, 100 miles. The freighting business from Pioche and all intermediate towns and camps is very extensive, most of M^hich is hauled by the Railroad Company's teams, as previously stated. The White Pine Country, is sit- uated to the southeast from Eureka, the principal city of which is Hamilton — This city contains a pop- ulation of about 800, all of whom are en- gaged in the mining business. Milling and smelting are the only occupations, there being two smelters and six mills. An English company is now engaged running a tunnel under Treasure Hill, to strike the great mineral deposit known to be there. This tunnel, when completed, will be 6,000 feet long— 7x9 feet, double track, "T" rail — and will tap the mines at a depth of 1,600 feet. It is now completed about 2,600 feet. Hamilton has one weekly newspaper — the News. White Pine — is nearly due east of Vir- ginia City, where the first silvei mining ex- citement occurred on the Pacific slope, and by many is supposed to be on the same range which produced the Comstock and other famous lodes. Possibly such is the case, though " ranges " have been terribly shaken about in this section of our country. The Eberhardtmine, which first attracted attention to this locality, was discovered in 1866, but the great stampede of miners and speculators to that quarter did not take place until the winter and spring of 1869. As far as prospected, the veins, in a ma- jority of cases, are not regular, being broken and turned in every direction. Some are flat, others dip at a"^ regular angle and have solid walls. The Base Metal Range in this vicinity is very extensive, and a num- l)er of furnaces have been erected to reduce the ores into base bullion for shipment. For items of interest see Annex No. 30. We will now return to Palisade, and re- sume our place in the C. P. cars. Passing down the canyon, winding and twisting along around a succession of projecting spurs, we pass the " Devil's Peak," on the opposite side of the river, a perpendicular rock, probably 500 feet high, rising from AND TACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 159 the water's edge. On, past the towering bluffs and castellated rocks— which, at first view, look like some old brown castle, for- saken by its founders and left to ruin, deso- lation and decay— we cross the river on a fine Howe truss bridge ; and from this point we shall keep on the southern side of the stream until we near Humboldt Lake, when we cross it again, and for the last time. Cluro — is a flag station, 10.4 miles west of Palisade, reached just after emerg- ing from the canyon. We now enter a more open country, with strips of meadow along the river's brink. Near this point is where the powder magazine of the rail- road company exploded in 1868, while the road was building through the canyon. North of the river, at the point on the opposite side, can be seen a peculiar for- mation, not seen elsewhere in the canyon. Where the road is cut through these points, they consist of gravel, sand and cement, having all the appearance of gold-bearing gravel-beds. It is an unmistakable water- wash, and not caused by volcanic wear — fine layers of sand, from one to five feet thick, and interspersed through the gravel, showing where the water rested and the sediment settled. Gravelly Ford— one of the most no- ted points on the Humboldt River in early days, is near Cluro. Then the canyon through which we have just passed was impassable. The long lines of emigrant wagons could not pass through the mighty chasm, but were obliged to turn and toil over the mountains until they could de- scend into the valley again. Coming to this point on the south side of the river, they crossed and followed up a slope of the opposite hills, thence along the table-land, and from thence to the valley above. A few would leave the river lower down and bear away to the south, but the road was long and rough before they reached the valley above the canyon. There were and now are other fords on the river, lower down, but none were as safe as this. With sloping gravelly banks and a hard gravel bottom, it offered superior advantages to the emigrant. Hence it became a noted place — the point to which the westward- bound emigrants looked forward with great interest. Here was excellent grazing for their travel-worn teams. Owing to these con- siderations, large bodies of emigrants were often encamped here for weeks. At times the river would be too high, and they would wait for the torrent to subside. The Indians — Shoshones — knew this also, and many a skirmish took place between them and their white brothers, caused by mistaken ideas regarding the ownership of the emi- grant's stock. Connected with this place is an incident which, for the honor of the men who per- formed the Christian act, we will relate: In the early times spoken of, a party of emigrants were encamped here, waiting for the water to subside. Among these emi- grants were many women and children. While here, an estimable young lady of 18 years fell sick, and despite the watchful care and loving tenderness of friends and kindred, her pure spirit floated into that unknown mist, dividing the real from the ideal, the mortal from ttie immortal. Her friends reared an humble head-board to her memory, and, in course of time— amid the new life opening to them on the Pacific slope — the young girl's fate and grave were alike forgotten lay all but her immediate relatives. When the advance guard of the Central railroad — the graders and culvert men— came to Gravelly Ford, they found the lone grave and ftist-decaying head- board. The site awoke the finer feelings of their nature and aroused their sympa- thies, for they were men, these brown, toil- stained laborers. The " culvert men " (masons) concluded that it was not consistent with Christian usage to leave a grave exposed and unde- fended from the incursion of beasts of prey. With such men, to think was to act, and in a few days the lone grave was enclosed with a solid wall, and a cross— the sacred emblem of immortality — took the place of the old head-board. In the day when the final reckoning between these men and the recording angel is adjusted, we think they will find a credit for that deed which will offset many little debits in the ledger of good and evil. Perhaps a fair spirit above may smile a blessing on their lives in rec- ompense of the noble deed. The grave is on the south side of the road, upon a low bluff", about five miles west of Cluro. In October, 1871, the Superintendent of the Division erected over it a fine large cross. " Corral," (Spanish) a pen made of posts set on end in the ground close together, and fastened with rawhide thongs, or by wagons drawn in a circle forming an inclosure. Telegraph Operators are called " lightning shovers." I Outfit— Necessary supplies for a journey. 160 croftjtt's new overland tourist Upon one side is inscribed " The Mai- den's Grave," on the other, her name, " Lucinda Duncan." Passing on, M^e cross narrow patches of meadow land, and wind around the base of low hills until we reach a broad valley. Across the river to the northward can be seen the long, unbroken slopes which stretch away until they are lost in that cold blue line — the Idaho Mountains — which rises against the northern sky. Behind that gray old peak, which is barely discernible, the head waters of the North Fork of the Humboldt break away when starting on their journey for the main river. Farther to the left, and nearer, from among that darker clump of hills Maggie's Creek finds its source. Be-o-iva-"we — is reached at a narrow point called Copper Canyon, 8.7 miles from Cluro. The Cortez mines and milis are situated about 85 miles south of this station, with which they are connected by a good road. At this point the Red Range throws a spur nearly across the valley, cutting it in two. It looks as though the spur extended clear across, at one time, damming up the waters of the river, as at the Palisades. The water-wash far up the hillside is in evi- dence of the theory that such was once the case, and that the waters cut this narrow gorge, through which they speed along unmindful of the mighty work done in for- mer years, when the resistless current *' forced a highway to the sea," and drained a mighty lake, leaving in its place green meadows. Here, on this red ridge, is the dividing line between the Shoshones and the Piutes, two tribes of Indians who seemed to be created for the express purpose of worry- ing emigrants, stealing stock, eating grass- hoppers, and preying on themselves and everybody else. The Shoshones are very degraded Indians, and until recently, were like the Ishmaelites or Pariahs of old — their hand was against every man, and every man's hand was compelled, in self- defense, to be against them until they be- came almost unable to commit depreda- tions, and could make more by begging than they could by stealing. The term Be-o- wa-we signifies gate, and it is literal in its significance. After leaving Be-o-wa-we, we pass through the gate, and wind along by the hillside, over the low meadows, which here are very narrow. The " bottom " is broad, but is covered with willows, with the ex- ception of the narrow meadows spoken of Amid these willows the stream winds and twists about through innumerable sloughs and creeks, as though undecided whether to leave this shady retreat for the barren plains below. Perhaps the traveler will see a flock of pelicans disporting in the w^aters on their return from their daily fishing excursion to Humboldt Lake. These i)irds, at certain seasons of the year, are to be found here and there along the river for about 20 miles below, in great numbers. They build their nests in these willow islands and rear the-ir young undisturbed, for even an Indian cannot penetrate this swampy, treacherous fastness. Every morning the old birds can be seen taking their flight to Humboldt Lake, where, in its shallow waters, they load themselves with fish, returning towards night to feed their young and ramble about the bottom. Soon after leaving the station, Hot Spring Valley comes in on the left — south — and by loolking away to the south eight miles, can be seen columns of steam, from one of the many "hot springs" which abound in the " Great Basin." If you do not behold the steam — for the springs are not always in active operation — you will behold a long, yellowish, red line, stretching for a full half-mile around a barren hill-side. From this line boiling, muddy water and sulphuric wash descends the hill-side, desolating everything in its AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 161 course, its waters escaping through the bogs of the valley. Sometimes for hours these springs are inactive, then come little putfs of steam, then long and frequent jets, which often shoot 30 feet high. The waters are very- hot. Woe to the unlucky hombre who gets near and to the windward of one of these springs, where it sends forth a col- umn of spray, steam and muddy sulphur water from 20 to 30 feet in height. He will need a change of clothes, some simple cerate, a few days' rest, and the prayers of his friends — as well as of the congregation. There are over 100 of these spurting, bub- bling, sulphuric curiosities around the hills in this vicinity. The general charac- ter of all are about the same. There are a great many theories regard- ing these springs — what causes the heat, etc. Some contend that the water escapes from the regions of eternal fires, which are supposed to be ever burning in the center of the globe. Others assert that it is min- eral in solution with the water which causes the heat. Again, irreverent persons suggest that this part of the country is but the roof of a peculiar place to which they may well fear their wicked deeds may doom them in the future. I^hoislione — is ten miles west of Be- o-wa-we ; elevation 4,636 feet. Across the river to the right is Battle Mountain, which rises up clear and sharp from the river's brink. It seems near, but between us and its southern base is a wide bottom land and the river, which here really '' spreads itself." We saw the same point when emerging from Be-o-wa-we, or " the gate," and it will continue in sight for many miles. This mountain derives its name from an Indian fight, the particulars of which will be related hereafter. There are several ranges near by, all bearing the same gene- ral name. This range being the most prominent, deserves a passing notice. It lies north of the river, between the Owyhee Range on the north and the Reese River Mountains on the south. Its base is washed by the river its entire length — from 50 to 75 miles. It presents an al- most unbroken surface and even altitude the entire distance. In places it rises in bold blufis, in others it slopes away from base to summit, but in each case the same altitude is reached. It is about 1,500 feet high, the top or summit appearing to be table-land. Silver and copper mines have 8 been prospected with good results. Behind this range are wide valleys, which slope away to the river at either end of the range, leaving it comparatively isolated. Opposite to Shoshone, Rock Creek emp- ties its waters into the Humboldt. It rises about 40 miles to the northward, and is bordered by a beautiful valley about four miles wide. The stream is well stocked with fish, among which are the mountain trout. In the country around the head- waters of the stream is found plenty of game of various kinds, including deer and bear. Copper mines of vast size and great rich- ness are found in the valley of Rock Creek, and among the adjoining hills. Whenever the copper interest becomes of sufficient importance to warrant the opening of these mines, this section will prove one of great importance. Leaving Shoshone, we pursue our way down the river, the road leading back from the meadow land and passing along an upland, covered with sage-brush. The hills on our left are smooth and covered with a good coat of bunch- grass, aff'ording most excellent pasturage for stock, sum- mer and winter. Argeiita — is 11.1 miles further west. This was formerly a regular eating station and the distributing point for Austin and the Reese River country ; but is now a sim- ple side-track. Paradise Valley lies on the north side of the river, nearly opposite this station. It is about 60 miles long by eight wide, very fertile and thickly settled. Eden Valley, the northern part of Para- dise Valley, is about 20 miles long and five wide. In general features it resembles the lower portion, the whole, comprising one of the richest farming sections in the State. Camp Scott and Santa Rosa are situated in the head of the valley, and other small towns have sprung up at other points. Paradise Creek is a clear, cold mountain stream, upon which are a number of grist and saw mills. It rises in the Owyhee Mountains and flows through these valleys to the Humboldt River. Salmon trout of enormous size are found in the stream and its tributaries. Bears, deer, silver-gray foxes, and other game, abound on the hills which border the valley. These valleys — the Humboldt for 50 miles east and west, and the adjoining mountains — are the stock-raisers' paradise. 162 crofutt's nenv overland tourist Tens of thousands of cattle are now roam- ing along the Humboldt and adjoining valleys, and surrounding hills. It is com- puted that there are nof less than 350 000 head between Promontorj^ Mountain and the Sierra Nevada Mountains. One firm near this station has over 40,000 head, and one range fenced of 28,000 acres. A few miles after leaving Argenta, Reese River Valley joins the Humboldt — coming in from the south. It is very diversified in feature, being very wide at some points — from seven to ten miles — and then dwin- dling down to narrow strips of meadow or barren sand. Some portions of the valley are susceptible of cultivation, and possess an excellent soil. Other portions are bar- ren sand and gravel wastes, on which only the sage-brush flourishes. This valley is also known by old emigrants as " Whirl- wind Valley," and passengers will fre- quently see columns of dust ascending skywards. Reese River, which flov/s through this valley, rises to the south, 180 to 200 miles distant. It has many tribu- taries, which find their source in the moun- tain ranges that extend on either side of the river its entire length. It sinks in the valley about 20 or 30 miles before reach- ing the Humboldt. During the winter and spring floods, the waters reach the Humboldt, but only in very wet times. Near where Reese River sinks m the valley was fought the celebrated battle be- tween the Whites and Indians — settlers and emigrants, 20 years ago — which gave the general name of Battle Mountain to these ranges. A party of marauding Shoshone Indians had stolen a lot of stock from the emigrants and settlers, who banded them- selves together and gave chase. They over- took them at this point, and the fight com- menced. From point to point, from rock to rock, down to the water's edge they drove the red skins, who, finding then^selves sur- rounded, fought with the stubbornness of despair. When night closed in, the set- tlers found themselves in possession of their stock and a hard-fought field. How many Indians emigrated to the Happy Hunting Grounds of the spirits no one knew, but from this time forward the power of the tribe was broken. From Argenta, it is 11.8 miles to Battle JHf oontaiii — This is a din- ner station for passenger trains from both the East and West, where trains stop 30 minutes. The waiters are Chinese, and very lively while serving a good meal. Water for the little fountain in front of the Battle Mountain House, the railroad, and the town, is conducted in pipes from a big spring in the side of the mountain, three miles to the south. There are several stores, hotels, restau- rants and saloons, on the south side of the depot ; also some large freight buildings, as this is the distributing point for a great number of mining districts, towns, and camps to the southward. The surrounding country is alive with herds of cattle, particularly on the north side of the river, and this station has be- come quite a point for cattle buyers, from California, to stop at and make their selec- tions. A stage leaves Battle Mountain daily, for Battle Mountain mines, seven miles. Galena, twelve miles, Austin, 90 miles, where connections are made for Eureka, Hamilton, Cortez, Belmont — 171 miles — and all intermediate towns. Stages also run to Lewis District, 14 miles, and to Tuscarora, 68 miles, connecting for Rock Creek, twelve miles further, and Cornu- copia, 20 miles. Lewis is a new mining district, 14 miles south, where some rich silver mines have been discovered within the last two years. Fast freight lines leave Battle Mountain daily for most of the cities, towns and dis- tricts above named. The tonnage from Battle Mountain Station averages about 500 per month. The Messenger is a weekly paper published here. Battle Mountain, Galena, and Copper Canyon mining camps are in the moun- tains just south of this station, and further to the south are the mining districts of Reese River, Washington, Kinsley, Cortez, Diamond, Dun Glen, Humboldt, Grass Valley, and several others. In all of thesiB districts rich mines are being worked; stamp mills and smelting furnaces are nu- merous. Since the building of the rail- road, low freights have resulted in the in- troduction of more and better machineiy, the reduction in cost of milling ores, and the opening and working of veins of lower grade ores, which could not be profitably worked when wagon freight prices ruled. Battle Mountain Station is in Lander county, the county seat of which is Aus- tin, 90 miles south. Austin — is situated near the summit of the Toiyabe Range, on the ground Mdiere the first silver ore was discovered in this district, in May, 1862. The discoverer, W. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 163 M. Talcott, located the vein andnamed it Poney. As soon as it beca.ne known, prospeccors flocked in, and the coun- try was pretty thorough- ly prospected during 1862 and 1863, Many veins were located, some of them proving very valuable. Mills were erected at different points, and from that time forward the dis- trict has been in a pros- perous condition. Austin contains a pop- ulation of about 2,000, nearly all of whom are engaged in mining operations. The town has some extensive stores and does a very large business in the way of furnishing sup- plies for the mining camps surrounding it, for fromSO to 100 miles. The Meese Miver Reveille is a live daily pub- lished here. To the south of Battle Mountain Station, about 20 miles, are several hot springs, strongly impreg- nated with sulphur and other minerals, but they attract no particular attention, being too common to excite curiosity. Leaving the station we skirt the base of the mountains to the left, leaving the river far to our right over against the base of Battle Mountain. We are now in the wid- est part of the valley, about opposite the Big Bend of the Humboldt. After passing the Palisades the river in- clines to the south for aboutSO miles, when it sweeps away to the north, along the base of Battle Mountain, for 30 miles further ; then turning nearly due south, it follows that direction until it discharges its waters in Humboldt Lake, about 50 miles by the river course from the great elbow, forming a vast semi-circle, washed by its waters for three-fourths of the circumference. This vast area of land, or most of it, comprising many thousand acres of level upland, bor- dered by green meadows, is susceptible of cultivation when irrigated. The sage- brush grows luxuriantly, and where the alkali beds do not appear, the soil produces crop of bunch-grass. The road a good TRUCKEE RIVER. takes the short side of the semi-circle keeping close to the foot of the isolated Humboldt Spur. On the opposite side of the river, behind the Battle Mountain Range, are several valleys, watered by the mountain streams, and affording a large area of first-class farming land. Chief among these is Quinn's Valley, watered by the river of that name. The arable portion of the valley is about 75 miles long, ranging in width from three to seven miles. It is a fine body of valley land, capable of producing luxuriant crops of grain, grass or vegetables. The hills which enclose it afford excellent pasturage. Timber of va- rious qualities — spruce and pine predomi- nating — is found in the gulches and ravines of the mountains. Quinn's River, which flows through this valley, is a large stream rising in the St. Rosa Hills of the Owyhee range, about 150 miles distant. From its source the general course of the river is due south for about 80 miles, when it turns and runs due west until it reaches Mud Lake. During the summer but little, if any, of its waters reach that place, being absorbed by the barren plain which lies between the foot- hills and the Humboldt River. Near the 164 crofutt's new overland tourist head- waters of Quinn's River, the Crooked Creek, or Antelope, rises and flows due north for about 50 miles, when it empties its waters into the Owyhee River. The head-waters of the streams which run from the southern slope of the Owyhee Moun- tains are well supplied with salmon and trout, and other varieties of fish. Quail, grouse, and four-footed game are abundant in the valleys and timbered mountains. Piute — is 4.9 miles west of Battle Mountain Station — but passenger trains seldom stop. Coin — a flag station, is 7.8 miles west of Piute. ^^toiie House — is 7.1 miles further. This place was once an old trading post, strongly fortified against Indian attacks. The Stone House stood at the foot of an ab- rupt hill, by the side of a spring of excel- lent water, but is now a mass of ruins. To the south of this station are more of the many hot springs that abound in the ]^e- vada Basin. We cross a broad sage-brush bottom, the soil of which in places is sandy and in others alkaline, and then wind along around the base of a mountain spur that shoots away to the northward, and come to Iron Point — a small side-track, 12.4 miles from Stone House. Here are located a few cattle-yards and shutes for loading cattle. At this station the bluff's draw close and high on each side, with the river and a narrow strip of meadow land on the right. After passing around the point and through numerous cuts for two miles, the canyon widens into a valley for several miles, then closes in, and the train passes around another rocky point into another valley, and stops at G-olconda — a station 11.4 miles from Iron Point. This is a small station with a few good buildings. Large herds of cattle range near by in the surrounding valleys, and on the bluffs. Rich mines of gold and silver are located both to the north and south ; one, the Golconda mine and mill, only three miles distant to the south. Close to the west of the station, under the edge of the bluff' on the right, are located some hot springs. Here some of the set- tlers—as at Springville, Utah — use the hot water for their advantage — one for milling the other for stimulating the soil. Continuing our journey, we pass over a broad sage-brush plain, with wide mead- ows beyond, for 10.9 miles to Xnle — an unimportant station. Pass- ing on down the valley we skirt the hills on our left, drawing still closer, in some places the spurs reaching to the track. On our left is an opening in the hills, from whence a canyon opens out near the road- side. It is about five miles long, contain- ing living springs. Here were discovered the first mines in this part of Nevada. In the spring of 1860, Mr. Barbeau, who was herding stock for Coperning, discovered the silver ore, and from this beginning, the prospecting was carried on with vigor, which resulted in locating many very val- uable bodies of ore. From Tule it is 5.8 miles to the end of the Humboldt division, at Winnemucca. Winnenincca — is the commence- ment of the Truckee Division. The station was named after a chief of the Piute In- dians who formerly resided here. Eleva- tion 4,331 feet. Distance from Omaha 1,451 miles; from San Francisco 468 miles. Winnemucca is the county seat of Hum- boldt county, and is composed of what is known as the old and new towns, which, together, contain about 800 inhabitants. The old town is situated on the low land directly fronting the station, about 300 yards distant. Though so near, it is hid from sight until you approach the bank and look over. The town contains about 150 buildings of all sorts, among which are a fine new court-house, stamp mill, smelt- ing works, flouring mill, and a good hotel, the Central Pacific. The buildings with few exceptions, are of wood, new, and like most of the railroad towns, more useful than ornamental. The company have located here the usual division work and repair shops, including a 16-stall round-house. They are built of wood in the most substantial manner, as are all the shops along the road. There is considerable mining going on around and near Winnemucca, and quite a number of mills and furnaces are in opera- tion, all of which are said to be doing well. In the Winnemucca Range, many lodes of silver-bearing ore have been located which promise a fair return for working. Stages leave here daily for Camp Mc- Dermott, 80 miles, fare $15 ; Paradise, 40 miles, fare $5; Silver City, Idaho, 200 miles, fare $40 ; Boise City, 255 miles, fare $40. Fast freight trains run from this station to all the above towns, and to the mining camps in the adjoining country. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 165 TIlsdlB TJ^BILjE. TRUOKEE DIVISION. WINNEMUCCA TO TRUCKEE. Frank Free, Division Superintendent. WEST FROM OMAHA. Daily Emigrant and freight. 8:15 9:10 10:05 10:50 11:50 12:55 1:47 2:55 3:40 4:39 6:10 7:15 8:00 9:10 10:00 10:20 11:57 12:37 1:40 2:20 4:05 4:15 5:05 5:30 6:15 6:35 7:00 7:15 p m a m p m p m Daily Express l8t&2dcrs 35 :58 22 :38 05* 55 :21 :50 .13 :32 ;05 :30 :48 :18 :33 :40 :15 :35 :15 :40 :50 :55 :25 :40 :02 :10 :30 :40 p m a m Distance from Omaha .1451. .1461. .1471.. .1478., .1491., .1502 , .1513., .1524.. .1533., .1540. .1552., .1559. .1567., .1577. .1584. .1586. .1593. .1601. .1613. .1622, .1631. .1632. .1639 .1641. .1647. .1649. .1652. .1655. SACRAMENTO TIME. STATIONS. EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. Lv . . . . $ WINNEMUCCA Av Rose Creek Raspberry +Mill Creek t Humboldt tRye Patch tOreana Lovelocks Granite Point t Brown's White Plains Mirage tHot Springs Desert , Two Mile Station JWadsworth Salvia Clark's Vista :{:Reno tVerdi Essex Mystic tBronco tBoca tProsser Creek Proctors Ar tTRUCKEE Lv Elevati'n .4315.. .4331. .4322. .4327. .4228. .4233. 4256. .3977. 3917. .3925. 3893. .4199. .4070. .4017. .4155. .4077. .4130. .4263. .4403. .4507. .4927. .5010. 5-216. .5340. .5533. .5610. .5720. ..5845. Daily Express let & 2d el's 10:40 10:16 9:53 9:35 8:45* 8:1.5 7:50 7:17 6:55 6:40 6:10 5:50 5:32 5:03 4:47 4:30 4:10 3:50 3:12 2:30 1:50 1:45 1:25 1:10 12:48 12:42 12:25 12:15 a m Daily Emigrant and freight a m 12:00 11:05 11:15 9:35 8:15 7:05 6:00 4::30 3:40 2:53 i:40 12:50 12:07 10:55 10:15 9:00 8:23 7:45 6:40 5:00 4:05 3:45 3:10 2:50 2:15 1:50 1:30 1:15 m a va. p m t Day Telegraph. X T>ay and Night Telegraph * Meals. The passenger's attention is directed to the elevation of each station. The Silver State, a weekly newspaper, is published here. Winnemucca is the great distributing point for a number of mining districts to the north and fcouth, and does an extensive freighting business. Many herds of cattle and sheep range the adjacent country, and large numbers are brought here for shipment to California. Mud Lake — is about 50 miles west of this station across the Humboldt, which here turns to the south, and is one of those peculiar lakes found in the great basin of Nevada. The lake receives the waters of Quinn's River and several smaller tribu- taries during the wet season. It has no outlet, unless its connection with Pyramid and Winnemucca lakes could be so desig- nated. _ It^ is about 50 miles long by 20 wide, in high water ; in summer it dwin- dles down to a marshy tract of land and a large stagnant pool. At the head of the lake is Black Rock, a noted landmark, in this part of the country. It is a bold, rocky headland, rising about 1,800 feet above the lake, bleak, bare, and extending for several miles. It is an isolated peak in this desert waste, keeping solitary guard amid the surrounding desolation. Pyramid Lake — is about 20 miles south of Mud Lake, which receives the waters of Truckee River. It is about 30 miles long by 20 wide during the wet seasons. The quality of the water is superior to that of Mud Lake, though the v>^ater of all these lakes is more or less brackish. Winnemucca Lake — a few miles east of Pyramid Lake, is another stagnant pond, about 15 miles long by ten wide. This lake is connected with Pyramid Lake by a small stream, and that in turn with Mud 166 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Lake, but only during high water, when the streams flowing into them cause them to spread far over the low, sandy waste around them. Returning to Winnemucca, we resume our journey. The road bears away to the southward, skirting the low hills which extend from the Winnemucca Mountain toward Humboldt Lake. The general aspect of the country, is sage and alkali on the bottoms, and sage and bunch-grass on the bluffs. Rose Creek. — comes next, 8.88 miles, and 10.2 more. Raspberry Creek. — Both the last named are unimportant stations where pas- senger trains seldom stop. They are each named after creeks near the stations, but why one should be Rose Creek and the other Raspberry Creek, we never could learn. We saw no indication of roses or raspberries at either creek. But they do have queer names for things in this country. Where they call a Jack rabbit a " narrow gauge mule," w^e are prepared to hear sage-brush called roses, aud grease- wood raspberries. Mill City — is 7.49 miles from Rasp- berry, and has some good buildings, among which is a fiae hotel, close to the track on the right — and large freight warehouses; also cattle pens and sliutes for shipping cattle, great numbers of which roam over the bottoms and adjacent bluffs. Stages leave this station on arrival of the cars for Unionville, a thrifty and promising silver mining town, 18 miles distant to the south- ward. Hamboldt— 11.7 miles from Mill City, is a regular eating station where trains for the West stop 30 minutes for supper, and those for the East the same time for breakfast. The meals are the best on the road. Here will be found the clearest, coldest mountain spring water along the road, and viewing it as it shoots up from the fountain in front of the station, one quite forgets the look of desolation observable on every side, and Ihat this station is on the edge of the great Nevada Desert. It is worth the while of any tourist who wishes to examine the wonders of nature to stop here aud remain for a few days at least — for one day will not suffice — although to the careless passer-by the country ap- pears devoid of interest. Those who wish to delve into nature's mysteries can here find pleasant and profitable employment. The whole sum of man's existence does not con- sist in mines, mills, merchandise and money. There are other ways of employ- ing the mind besides bending its energies to the accumulation of wealth ; there is still another God, mightier than Mammon, wor- shiped by the few. Among the works of His hands — these barren plains, brown hills and curious lakes — the seeker after knowledge can find ample opportunities to gratify his taste. The singular formation of the soil, the lava deposits of a by-gone age, the fossil remains and marine evi- dences of past submersion, and, above all else, the grand and unsolved problem by which the waters that are continually pour- ing into this great basin are prevented from overflowing the low land around them, are objects w^orthy of the close attention and investigation of the scholar and philoso- pher. From this station, the noted points of the country are easy of access. Here one can observe the effects of irri- gation on this sandy, sage-brush country. The garden at the station produces vege- tables, corn and fruit trees luxuriantly, and yet but a short time has elapsed since it was covered with a rank growth of sage- brush. About seven miles to the northeast may be seen Star Peak, the highest point in the Humboldt Range, on which the snow con- tinues t3 hold its icy sway the whole year round. Two and one-half miles southeast are the Humboldt mines — five in number — rich in gold and silver. The discovery of a borax mine near the station has been re- cently reported. Five miles to the north- west are the Lanson Meadows, on which are cut immense quantities of as good grass as can be found in the country. Thirty miles north are the new sulphur mines, where that suspicious mineral has been found in an almost pure state, and so hard that it requires to be blasted before it can be got out of the mine, and in quanti- ties sufficient to enable those operating the mine to ship from 20 to 30 car-loads a week to San Francisco. Leaving Hum- boldt, about one mile distant, on the right near the road, is another sulphur mine — but nothing has been done with it. Rye Patch — is 11-23 miles from Hum- boldt, named for a species of wild rye that grows luxuriantly on the moist ground near the station . To the left of the road, against the hill- side, is another hot spring, over whose sur- face a cloud of vapor is generally floating. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 167 The medicinal qualities of the water are highly spoken of by those who never tried them, but we could learn of no reliable analysis of its properties. To the right of the ti-ack is located a 10-stamp quartz mill, the ores for which come from the moun- tains on the left. The Rye Patch and El- dorado mining Districts are to the left, from five to fifteen miles distant, for which most of the supplies are hauled from this station. Oreana — is reached after passing over a rough, uneven country for 10.12 miles. To the southeastward are located a num- ber of mining districts, in which are lo- cated a number of stamp mills and smelt- ing works. Leaving the station to the west, the long gray line of the desert is seen cheerless and desolate. We draw near the river again and catch occasional glimpses of narrow, green meadows, with here and there a farm-house by the river-side; pass a smelting furnace and stamp mill — on the Humboldt River — to the right, which has been dammed near by to aflbrd water power. Five miles from the station we cross a Howe truss bridge over the river, which here winds away on our left until it reaches the lake a few miles beyond. The current and volume of the river has been materially reduced since we left it at the head of the Big Bend. liOvelocks— 11.86 miles from Ore- ana, derives its name from an old meadow ranche which is situated near, upon which, during the summer, large quantities of hay are cut and baled for market. Some at- tempt has been made at farming near by, but little of the country is adapted to the purpose. Cattle and sheep raising is the principal occupation of the people — but few herds will be seen hereafter on our route. Reliable authority places the num- ber of head of stock now along the Hum- boldt River and adjacent valleys — 1877 — cattle, 340,000 head; sheep, 30,000 head. During the year there were shipped from the same section to Chicago 60 car-loads of cattle, and 456 car-loads to San Francisco. Passing on over alkali beds, sand-hills and sage-brush knobs, the meadow-lands along the bottom get narrower, and finally fade from sight altogether, and we find ourselves fairly out on the Great Nevada Desert — This desert occupies the largest portion of the Ne- vada Basin, In this section, to the north- ward, is Mud Lake, Pyramid Lake, Hum- boldt, Winnemucca and Carson lakes, which receive the waters of several large rivers and numerous small creeks. As we have before stated, they form a portion of that vast desert belt which constitutes the central area of the Nevada Basin. The desert consists of barren plains destitute of wood or water, and low, broken hills, which afford but little wood, water or grass. It is a part of that belt which can be traced through the whole length of the State, from Oregon to Ai'izona, and far into the interior of that Territory. Tlie Forty Mile Desert, and the barren country east of Walker's Lake, are part of this great division which extends southward, continued by those desolate plains, to the east of Silver Peak, on which the unfortu- nate Buel party suffered so terribly in their attempt to reach the Colorado River. Throughout this vast extent of territory the same characteristics are found — evi- dences of recent volcanic action — alkaline flats, bassalt rocks, hot springs and sandy wastes abounding in all portions of this great belt. Although this desert is generally spoken of as a sandy waste, sand does not j)redom- inate. Sand hills and flats occur at inter- vals, but the main bed of the desert is lava and clay combined — one as destitute of the power of creating or supporting vegetable lijfe as the other. The action of the elements has covered these clay and lava deposits with a coarse dust, resembling sand, which is blown about and deposited in curious drifts and knolls by the wind. Where more of sand than clay is found, the sage-brush occasionally appears to have obtained a faint hold of life, and bravely tries to retain it, (irranite Point— a flag station, is 8.33 miles from Lovelock's. Passing on, an occasional glimpse of Humboldt Lake, which lies to the left of the road, can be obtained, and in full view 7.65 miles fur- ther, at BronTi's — This station is situated about midway of the northern shore, directly opposite Humboldt Lake — This body of water is about 35 miles long by ten wide, and is in reality a widening of the Humboldt River, which after coursing through 350 miles of country, empties its waters into this basin. Through this basin the water flows to the plains beyond by an outlet at the lower end of the lake, uniting with the waters of the sink of Carson Lake which lies about ten 168 crofutt's new overlaxd tourist miles distant. Duriug the wet season, ■when the swollen rivers have overflowed the low lands around the lakes and united them, they form a very respectable sheet of water, about eighty miles or more in length, with a large river emptying its waters into each end ; and for tliis vast volume of water there is no visible outlet. Across the outlet of Humboldt Lake a dam has been erected, which has raised the water about six feet, completely oblit- erating the old emigrant road which passed close to the southern shore. The necessi- ties of mining have at length Utilized the waters of the lake, and now they are em- ployed in turning the machinery of a quartz mill. In the lower end of the lake is an island — along narrow strip of land — which extends up the lake and near the northern shore. Before the dam was put in the outlet, this island was part of the main land. There are several varieties of fish in the lake, and an abundance of water-fowl during portions of the year. Leaving Brown's, and passing along the shore of the lake for a few miles, an inter- vening sand ridge hides the lake from our sight, and about eight miles west we ob- tain a fine view of the Sink of Carson Lake, which is a small body of water lying a few miles north of the main Carson Lake, and connected with that and the Humboldt dur- ing the wet season. Carson Lake lies directly south of Humboldt Lake, and is from 20 to 25 miles long, with a width of ten miles. In the winter its waters cover considerable more area, the Sink and lake being one. The Carson River empties into the south- ern end of the lake, discharging a large volume of water. What becomes of the vast body of water continually pouriog into these lakes, is the problem yet un- solved. Some claim the existence of un- derground channels, and terrible stories are told of unfortunate people who have been drawn down and disappeared for- ever. These stories must be taken with much allowance. If underground chan- nels exist, why is it that the lakes, which are 10 to 15 miles apart in low water are united during the winter floods? And how is it, that when the waters have subsided from these alkaline plains, that no openings for these channels are visible '? The only rational theory for the escape of the water is by evaporation. Examine eacii little stream bed that you meet with; you find no water there in the summer. nor sink holes, yet in the winter their beds are full until they reach the main river. The sun is so powerful on these lava plains in summer that the water evapo- rates as soon as it escapes from the cooling shadows of the hills. By acutal experi- ment it has been demonstrated that at Carson and Humboldt lakes the evapora- tion of water is equal, in the summer, to six inches every 24 hours. In the winter, when the atmosphere is more humid, evap- oration is less, consequently the waters spread over a larger area. Carson River, which gives its name to the lake, rises in the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, south of Lake Tahoe and opposite the head waters of the American River. From its source to its mouth is about 150 to 200 miles by the riv- er's course. From its source its course is about due north for about 75 miles, when it turns to the east, and follows that direction until it enters the lake. Under the general name of Carson Val- ley, the land bordering the river has long been celebrated as being one of the best farming sections in the State. The thriv- ing towns of Carson City and Genoa are situated in the valley, though that portion around Carson City is frequently designa- ted as Eagle Valley. The upper portion, from Carson to the foothills, is very fertile, and yields handsome crops of vegetables, though irrigation is necessary to insure a good yield. In some portions the small grains are successfully cultivated, and on the low lands an abundant crop of grass is produced. The valley is thickly settled, the arable land being mostly occupied. South and west of the head waters of Car- son River, the head waters of Walker's River find their source. The west fork of Walker's River rises within a few miles of the eastern branches of the Carson. The east fork of Walker's River runs due north until joined by the west fork, when the course of the river is east for about forty miles, when it turns to the south, following that direction until it reaches Walker's Lake, about forty miles south of the sink of the Carson, having traversed in its tortu- ous course about 140 miles. In the val- leys, which are found at intervals along the rivers, occasional spots of arable land are found, but as an agricultural country the valley of Walker's River is not a success. Walker Lake is about 45 miles long by 20 miles wide. Like all the lakes in the basin, it has no outlet. The water is 168 miles wlier the 1( them watei with each there Ac dam the V erati] close ties ( wate ploy, quar is an whic nortl in tl mail fish wate Le shor. veni] sighl tain ; whic mile conn ingt Ca Hun long wint area, Tl ern volu vast into solv( derg are t been ever, muc nels are are And subs opei The the eacl: you WOOD-IIAlTLI^ s NEVADA. (See Annex No. 39,) (11.) AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 169 brackish and strongly impregnated with alkali. The general characteristics of the other lakes in the great basin belong to this also ; the description of one embracing all points belonging to the others. White Plains— is 12.17 miles west of Brown's. This station is the low- est elevation on the Central Pacific railroad east of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, As indicated by the name, the plains imme- diately around the station are white with alkali, solid beds of which slope away to the sinks of Carson and Humboldt lakes. No vegetation meets the eye when gazing on the vast expanse of dirty white alkali. The sun's rays seem to fall perpendicularly down on this barren scene, burning and withering, as though they would crush out any attempt which nature might make to introduce vegetable life. The water to fill the big tank at the sta- tion is pumped from the *' Sink " by means of a stationary engine, which is situated about midway between the station, and the Sink. Mirage — is 7.96 miles from White Plains. This station is named for that cu- rious phenomenon, the mirage (meerazh) which is often witnessed on the desert. In early days the toil-worn emigrant, when urging his weary team across the cheerless desert, has often had his heart lightened by the sight of clear, running streams, waving trees and broad, green meadows, which appealed to be but a little distance away. Often has the unwary traveler turned aside from his true course and fol- lowed the vision for weary miles, only to learn that he had followed a phantom, a will-o'-the-wisp. What causes these optical delusions no one can tell, at least we never heard of a satisfactory reason being given for the ap- pearance of the phenomenon. We have seen the green fields, the leafy trees and the running waters; we have seen them all near by, as bright and beautiful as though they^ really existed, where they appeared too, in the midst of desolation, and we have seen them vanish at our approach. Who knows how many luckless travelers have followed these visions, until, overcome with thirst and heat, they laid down to die on the burning sands, far from the cooling shade of the trees they might never reach ; far from the music of running waters, which they might hear no more. Onward we go, reclining on the soft cushions of the elegant palace car, thirty miles an hour ; rolling over the alkali and gray lava beds, scarcely giving a thought to those who, in early days, suf- fered so fearfully while crossing these plams, and, perchance, left their bones to bleach and whiten upon these barren sands. Hot Springs — is 6.57 miles west of Mirage. Here, to the right of the road, can be seen more of these bubbling, spurting curiosities — these escape pipes, or safety valves for the discharge of the super-abun- dant steam inside the globe, which are scattered over the great basin. Extensive salt works are located at this station, from which a car-load or more of salt is shipped daily. The salt springs are about four miles west of the station. The Saxon American Borax Co. have erected works here which cost about $200,- 000. They are situated a half-mile south of the station, in plain view. Passing on, we find no change to note, unless it be that the beds of alkali are oc- casionally intermixed with brown patches of lava and sand. A few bunches of stunted sage-brush occasionally break the monotony of the scene. It is worthy of notice thatthis hardy shrub is never found growing singly and alone. The reason for it is evident. No single shrub could ever maintain an existence here. It must have help ; consequently we find it in clumps for mutual aid and protection. Desert — is 11.7 miles from Hot Springs. This is, indeed, a desert. In the next 5.97 miles, we gain about 100 feet alti- tude, pass Two Mile Station, descend 82 feet in the next 2.37 miles, and arrive at WadSTTorth — This town is situated on the east bank of the Truckee River and the western border of the desert, and con- tains some good buildings, and a popula- tion of about 450. The division workshops are located here, and consist of a round-house of 20 stalls, car, machine and blacksmith shops. Adjoining the workshops, a piece of land has been fenced in, set out with trees, a fountain erected, and a sward formed, by sowing grass-seed and irrigating it — mak- ing a beautiful little oasis. Considerable freight is shipped from this station to min- ing camps to the south. Pine Grove Copper Mines lies six miles south of the town. They attract little at- tention, that mineral not being much sought after. Ten miles south are the Desert mines, which consist of gold-bear- 170 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST SNOW SHEDS — SEE PAGE 183. ing quartz lodes. Some of the miues there are considered very rich. Ninety miles south, at Columbus, are located the famous Borax mines of Nevada, said to be very ricli. The Piute In- dians have two reservations; one is situated eighteen miles northward, and another to the southeast, at Walker Lake. Leaving Wads worth, we cross the Truc- kee River, on a Howe truss bridge, our course being to the southwest. This stream rises in Lakes Taboe and Donner, which lie at the east- ern base of the Sierras, about 80 miles dis- tant. From its source in Lake T a h o e , the branch runs north for about twelve miles, when — near TruckeeCit}^ — it unites with Little Truckee, the outlet of Donner Lake, and turns to the east,follow- ing that course until it reaches this place, where it turns north about 25 miles, branch- es, and one por- tion enters Pyr- amid and the other Winne- mucca Lake. The level lands border- ingtheTruckee consist mostly of gravelly upland covered with sage-brush. It is claimed that they might be rendered productive by irriga- tion, and the experiment has been tried in a small way, but with no flattering result. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE 171 The upper portions of the valley, especially that which borders on Lake Tahoe, is ex- cellent farming land. Between these two points— the meadows and the lake — but little meadow land is found, the val- ley being reduced to narrow strips of low land in the canyons and narrows, and broad, gravelly uplands in the more open country. I^al via — a small side-track, comes next after Wadsworth, 7.25 miles distant. Soon we pass around a lava bluti', called Red Kock, on the right, and 7.55 miles brings us to Clark's — in a round valley, sur- rounded by fenced fields, wdiere good crops of vegetables are raised for market in mining towns to the south. From Clark's, it is 11.96 miles to "Vista — a small station situated on the northern edge of what is known as the Truckee Meadows. In early days these meadows were a noted rendezvous of the emigrants, who camped here for days to recruit their teams after crossing the desert. They have an extent of about twelve miles in length by about two miles in width, inclosing considerable excellent^ grass land. Vegetables and small grains are successfully cultivated on portions of the moist laud. Reno — is 7.64 miles from Vista; is the county seat oi Waslio county, and contains a population of about 1,500. It was named in honor of General Reno, who was killed at the battle of South Mountain. This city has rapidly improved within the last six years, and now contains five church edifices, two banks, a fine courthouse, a number of good business blocks, a steam fire department, several small factories, two daily news- papers, the Journal and the Gazette^ and is the distributing point for an enormous freighting business to the north, as well as the south. Some good agricultural land surrounds the town, as well as many herds of cattle and sheep. The State Agricul- tural grounds are located here, in which is a very fine race track. The Lake House is the principal hotel. Stages leave daily for Susanville, 90 miles. The English works are near the town, affording excellent means by which to test the ores .discovered in the neighborhood. The greatest mining region in the w^orld is reached via Reno. Virginia City, located over the mountain to the southeast, from this station is only 21 miles distant, by the old wagon road, but by rail it is 52 miles. Before the completion of this road, Vir- ginia City was reached by stage, over a fearfully steep zig-zag mountain road, but the diflerence between the " old and the new" is more than made up in the com- fort of the passage if not in time. At the time wdien these stages were run- ning to convey passengers, a fast " Pony Express " was run for the purpose of carry- ing Wells, Fargo & Co.'s letter bags. This pony express was once a great institution. When it left Reno, the traveler could have observed that the mail express bags were thrown from the cars before the train had ceased its motion. By watching the pro- ceedings still further he would see that they are transferred to the backs of stout horses, already bestrode by light, wiry riders. In a moment all is ready, and away they dash under whip and spur to the next station, when, changing horses, they are off again. Three relays of horses were used, and some " good time " was often made by these riders. Let us take a run up and see this Huge Bonanza Country. Virginia & Trnclcee Railroad. Principal office, Carson, Nevada. D. 0. Mills PresH San Faancisco. H. M. Yerington Gen'' I Sup'' i Carson, Nev. E.NiLES Qen'lT.A.... " " This load was commenced at Carson City, March 19th, 1869, completed to Vir- giriia City in the following November, and to Reno in 1 87 1 . The length is 52.2 miles ; the grade in places is 115 feet to the mile, and there are six tunnels, of the aggregate length of 3,000 feet ; the shortest curve is 19 degrees — between Gold Hill and Vir- ginia City. The train for Virginia stands on the oppo- site side of the station building from the C. P. Let us step on board. From Reno, our course is east of south, crossing a por- tion of the Truckee Meadows, a few well- cultivated fields and greater quantities of sage and grease-wood. The first station on the bills is 3.5 miles from Reno, called Anderson's — but we do not stop. Cross- ing the river, we pass the first of a series of V-shaped flumes, which are constructed to float down w^ood and lumber from the mountains. The one we are now passing is said to be 15 miles in length. HuPFAKER's — comes .next — after 3.6 miles, where another flume is passed, both of which are on the right, and land their 172 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST freight — wood — close to the track of our road. Along here we find some broad meadows on the left, but sage on the right. Passing over 1.9 miles from the last station we arrive at Brown's — Here is the ecd of another flume, and 2.4 miles further, and after curving around to the right, up a broad valley, arrive at the Steamboat Spiungs — which are eleven miles south of Reno. There are several of these curious springs within a short dis- tance of the road. They are near each other, all having a common source, though different outlets, apparently. They are sit uated to the right of the road, just before reaching the station, a short distance above the track ; are strongly impregnated with sulphur, and are very hot, though the tem- perature varies in different springs. They are said to possess excellent me- dicinal qualities. At times they are quite active, emitting jets of water and clouds of steam, which at a distance resemble the blowing off of steam from a large boiler. The ground around them is soft and treach- erous in places, as though it had been thrown up by tiie springs, and had not yet cooled or hardened. It is related that once upon a time, when a party of emigrants, who were toiling across the plains, arrived near these springs about camping time, they sent a man ahead — a Dutchman — to look out for a suitable place for camping — one where wa'er and grass could be ob- tained. In his search the Dutchman dis- covered these springs, which happened to be quiet at the time, and knelt down to take a drink of the clear, nice-looking- water. Just at that instant a jet of spray was thrown out and over the astonished Dutchman. Springing to his feet, he dashed away to the train, shouting at the top of his voice, "Drive on! drive on! h— 1 is not five miles from this place!" Guess the innocent fellow firmly believed what he uttered. The traveler will find the springs suffi- ciently interesting to repay him for the trouble of pausing here awhile and taking a look around. At the station will be found a comfortable hotel, ample bath ac- commodations, and about a half-dozen resi- dences. Leaving the springs, our course is south, up a narrow valley, in which is some good farming land, with high bluffs on each side ; cross and re-cross Steamboat Creek, curve to the right through a narrow canyon where there are many evidences of placer mining ; twist and climb, between high pro- jecting cliffs, and suddenly emerge into a great valley, and stop at Washoe City— Ah ! here is a child of the past. In its palmy days Washoe was as lively a city, or camp, as could be found in the whole mining region. Where thou- sands of people once toiled, there are now only a few dozen, and most of those are engaged in other pursuits than mining. On the right is another flume for floating wood from the mountains on the west- ward. The valley near this place is from half to a mile in width, surrounded by high moun- tains, the highest peak of which is Mt. Rose, at the south end of the valley, over 8,000 feet in height. The mountains on the east are bare, with some sage and bunch-grass, while those on the west are covered, the greater part, with pine and spruce timber. Leaving Washoe, we pass, on the left, the Old OphirMill, a stone building — now in ruins — which once gave employment to about 150 men, besides a $30,000 a year superintendent. Franktown — is 4.7 miles from Washoe,a growing station in the midst of Washoe valley; population about 150. A "V" flume comes down on the right. There are some good farming lands along here, but the greater portion is only adapted for grazing purposes. Washoe Lake, on the left, is about four miles long and one mile wide. On the east side of the lake is Bower's Hotel, a great resort in the summer for pic-nic par- ties from the cities to the southward. From Franktown it is 2.6 miles to Mill Station — near the site of an old mill, where another "V" flume comes down from the mountains on the right, making six since leaving Reno. Proceeding south, the valley narrows and is soon crowded out completely, and we rise up onto the southern rim; and then, a look back will take in the whole valley and lake from end to end, and a beautiful view it is. At this narrow gorge the railroad track crosses the great Water Syphon, through which the water is conducted from the Sierra Nevada Mountains, on the west, across this narrow gorge, for supplying Virginia City, Gold Hill and Silver City. It is an achievement which finds no parallel in the history of hydraulic engineering. The total length AND PACIP^IC COAST GUIDE. 173 of the pipe used is but little less than seven miles. At the point where the water is taken from Ball's Creek, up in the Sierras, it is brought in an 18-inch flume, four miles long, to the point of a spur on the west side of Washoe Valley, the height of which is 2,100 feet above the railroad track. At the point where the water in the flume reaches the spur it is received in an iron pipe, which, after running along the crest, de- scending, crossing and ascending twelve steep canyons on its route, finally descends into this gorge, crosses it from the west, and ascends the el ifl" on the east side to a height of 1,540 feet, where it is taken by another flume and conducted to a reservoir on the Divide between Virginia City and Gold Hill. The pipe l!as an orifice twelve inches in diameter, and where the pressure is the greatest, is five-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, riveted with five-eighth inch rivets in double rows. Where the pres- sure lessens, the thickness of the material gradually decreases. The amount of rolled iron used in con- structing the pipe was 1,150,000 lbs. One million rivets and 52,000 lbs. of lead were used on the pipe. Before being used, each length of pipe — 26 feet long, each — was heated to a temperature of 380 degrees, and submerged in a bath of asphaltum and coal tar, to prevent corroding. At the bot- tom of each depression there is a blow-off cock, for removing any sediment that might accumalate, and at each elevation is an air-cock to let out the air when the water is first introduced into the pipes. Where the water pipe runs under the rail- road track, it is surrounded with a massive iron sleeve, twelve feet long, to protect it from the jar of passing trains. This pipe is capable of furnishing 3,000,000 gallons of water a day. The whole cost of con- struction w^as $750,000. A movement is now on foot to lay another and much larger THE WAY WE ONCE WENT TO VIRGINIA CITY. 174 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST pipe near the present one. From Mill station it is 2.5 miles to Lake View — situated just south of the southern lim of the Washoe Valley, in the gorge above alluded to. Soon after leaving the station, we pass into a tunnel, through a projecting cliff, which shoots out from the right, and comes out on the side of the mountain overlooking the beautiful Eagle or Carson Valley. Away in the distance, four miles away, can be seen Carson City, a little further, Carson River, and beyond both, the mountains, just beyond which is Walker's River, and then Walker's Lake. Winding and descending around the side of the mountain, through numerous rocky cuts, a distance of 4.6 miles from Lake View, we arrive at Carson City — the capital of the State of Nevada. It is situated in Eagle Valley, on the Carson River, at the foot of the eastern base of the Sierras, and contains about 4,000 population; is 31.1 miles south Irom Reno, and 21.1 miles southwest from Virginia City. It is the oldest town in the State, and has a good many fine private and public buildings. The town is tastefully decorated with shade trees, and has an abundance of good water. The United States Branch Mint of Nevada is located here. The capital is located in the center of a Plaza, and is surrounded by an iron fence. It is two story and basement, made of cut stone. Carson is a busy city, has some good blocks of buildings, several good hotels, chief of which is the Ormsby; four churches, five schools, two daily newspa- pers — the Mortiing Appeal und the Nevada Tribune. Here are located the machine shops of the Railroad Company, and several manufactories. Carson City is in the center of the best farming land on Carson River, and the best in this part of the State, and is the distributing point for a vast amount of freight, destined for the southern mines. To the south of the city, comes down the large "V" flume from the Sierras, via. Clear Creek Canyon, owned by the Railroad Company through which thou- sands of cords of wood and millions of feet of lumber are landed at Carson weekly. Four and six horse coaches leave Carson daily, carrying passengers, mails and express. From Carson to Monitor, the distance is 46 miles, and to Silver Mountain, in Alpine county, Cal., 54 miles; to Bishop's Creek, 192 miles; Benton, 150 miles in Mono county, Cal., Sweetwater, 73 miles, Aurora, 105 miles, Bodie, 119 miles, Mariette, 145 miles, Bell- ville, 155 miles, Candelaria, 165 miles, Columbus, 173 miles and Silver Peak, 228 miles in Esmeralda county, Nevada, — To Independence, is 234 miles ; Lone Pine, 252 miles, and Cerro Gordo, 274 miles, in Inyo county, Cal. The fare to these places averages about 15 cents per mile. A stage also runs to Genoa and Markleville, and in the summer to Lake Tahoe, at Glenbrook, 15 miles. This line connects at Tahoe City, with stages for Truckee, the Summit, and also with the new line over the mountains to the Calavaras Grove. Leaving Carson, our course is to the northeast, across a broad bottom. To the right, about two miles distant, beside a round butte, is a large building — a huge boarding-house — conducted by the State. The guests are numerous, and are not inmates of their own free will^ but by due course of law, and when the law is satisfied, it is hoped they will leave this States Prison and become better citizens. Near the prison are the Carson Warm Springs, where are ample accommodations for bathing. Lookout — is the first station from Car- son, 1.1 miles distant, but our cars lookout not to stop, and 1.3 miles further, brings Empire — This is a town of about 1,000 population, situated on the north bank of Carson River. Here are located the big Spanish or Mexican mill, on the right, then the Morgan or Yellow Jacket mill, and then the Empire. Passing on, down the bank of the Carson, we curve around the point of a blutT, pass the Brunswick mill on the left, near the station of the same name, 1.3 miles from Empire. Soontlie valley is crowded out, and we enter a canyon, with the river to our right, just below, as we are now climbing up a heavy grade. To our right, but far below, is the Vivian, and the Merrimac mills, nearly one mile from the Brunswick. Continuing on up, still up- ward, we come to the Santiago mill, 1.8 miles further. This mill is situated about 500 feet below the road, on the right, and almost under it. Shutes run from the track above to the mill below, for dumping ore or coal. The road is now far up on the side of the mountain, much of the way blasted out from the solid rock, and very crooked. The canyon on the Carson River is far below, on the right, and soon will be lost to view. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 175 Eureka— is half a mile from Santiago, with a narrow-gauge track on our right, away down the river. Near the track on the right, is the dump-shute of the Eureka mill. Ascending rapidly and tortuously for two miles, we come to Mound House — Here all supplies for Dayton and Sutroville, are re-shipped on wagons; distance to Dayton, four miles, to Sutroville, five miles. Stages run daily. A large amount of freight is shipped from this point for Columbus, and the Monte Christo country. Since the completion of the steam-tug on Walker Lake, teams that pass over Holmes' toll-road are conveyed a distance of 35 miles, saving 45 miles of teaming around the north end of the lake, through deep sand. This tug is 60 feet long, with a breadth of 18 feet, and lakes on a four or six horse team, but not a "prairie schooner" of twelve or sixteen animals. However, a larger boat is being constructed to accommodate this trade. SuTRO Tunnel — This tunnel is one of the most important enterprises ever inau- gurated in mining operations in this or any other country. The object sought is ven- tilation, drainage, and a cheap means of working the mines, or bringing the ores to the surface. The tunnel commences in the valley of the Carson River ; is 14 feet wide at the bottom, 18 feet at the top, and 12 feet high. The main tunnel will be 19,790 feet in length, and the cross tunnels about 12,000 feet more. The tunnel will strike the Com- stock ledge at a depth of 1,898^ feet below the point of the croppings. The estimated cost, when completed, $4,418,329.50. The work is being pushed ahead vigorously, and 18,762 feet had been completed at the commencement of the year 1878, and should no unforeseen drawbacks take place, the tunnel will be completed and in operation within tlie present year. Near Mound House is a gypsum mine of good quality, large amounts of which are shipped to San Francisco. A track branches off near the station, to the right, for Silver City, situated about two miles to the eastward, in a narrow canyon, in plain view, where are located a number of quartz mills. Silver — is the next station, 3.3 miles from Mound House. Here ore is dumped down a shute to the right, and taken to the mills below The best view of Silver City — a place of 1,000 population, all of whom are engaged in mining, having one news- paper, the Reporter— ci\\\ now be had on the right ; curving around to the left, we come to the American Flat tunnel, 900 feet long. It was at this tunnel where a thrill- ing incident occurred, October 17, 1872. (See Annex No. 31.) The fire alluded to in the annex cost the Railroad Company $500,000. It took two months to replace the timbering, during which time all passengers, freight, mails and express, had to be transferred by teams. Passing through the tunnel, Mt. David- son looms up direcily ahead, 7,827 feet above sea-level ; to the right is Gold Hill — far away, in a narrow canyon. The train runs around the side of the mountain, de- scribing a great curve to the north and eastw^ard, passing numerous mills, among which are the Rock Island, down on the right; the Baltimore, a track to the Over- man, the Knickerbocker, Belcher, Baltic, and many otlier mills, both on the right and left, and finally crossover a huge mill, and one of the principal streets of the city of Gold Hill, which extends to the left up a narrow canyon, and stops at the depot in the city of Gold Hill — This is a flourishing min- ing city, 19 miles from Carson and two from Virginia; population, 6,000. It con- sists mostly of one main street, built along a steep ravine. The city has some good buildings, among which are one good liotel,theVesey House ; and one daily new^s- paper, the Gold Hill News. The city is sur- rounded with mills of all sorts, sizes and kinds, and all is noise and business night and day. The street between Gold Hill and Virginia is so generally built up that one cannot tell where the dividing line is between them. An omnibus line plies be- tween the two cities, running every fifteen minutes. Passing on from Gold Hill two miles, around sharp curves, through three short tunnels in quick succession, with mills to the right, mills to the left, and mills all around us, w-c arrive at Virginia City— This city is on the southeastern slope of Mt. Davidson, at an elevation of 6,200 feet, with the mountain rising 1,627 feet above it. The city is built along the side of the mountain— one main street, with numerous steep cross-streets — and contains some very fine business blocks. Virginia is 21 miles from Carson, and 52 miles by rail, from Reno, and contains a population of about 16,000, a great propor- tion of whom are engaged in mining op- 176 crofutt's new overland tourist eratious immediately under the city^ from 1,500 to 2,200 feet. The Enterprise and tlie Chronicle — botli daily and weekly papers — are published here. The religious and educational interests are well represented by churches and schools. There are a number of hotels in the city, at which the traveler will find good ac- commodations. The International is the principal one. At both Virginia and Gold Hill, are located great numbers of smelling furnaces, reduction works and stamp mills, all thun- dering away, night and day. The fires from these works, at night, light up with a lurid glare all surrounding objects. There are no two cities in the world more cos- mopolitan; here, meet and jostle, the peo- ple from every land and clime; the rich and the poor; the miser and the spend- thrift; the morose and jolly. SelfkQve predominates. " Rich to-day, poor to- morrow," is the rule. All gamble in min- ing stocks, from the boot-black or servant girl to the Rev. Mr. Whitetie, or the Bo- nanza-Nabob. The whole people are alive to each movement of the " stock indica- tors," as much as the " Snow^balls " were in Baltimore twenty-five years ago on the lottery and policy business; 4-11-44 was their god; the tick of the "indicator" is the god of this people. The saying that " It is not birth, nor wealth, nor State — its git up and git that makes men great," has been thoroughly demonstrated by many ot the citizens ot Virginia City and Gold Hill. Early History — The first gold mines were discovered in 1857, by Joe Kirby, and some others, who commenced mining in Gold Canyon (Gold Hill), and continued working the place with indifferent success until 1859. The first quartz claim was lo- cated by James Finney, better known as " Old Virginia," on the 22d of February, 1858, in the Virginia mining district and on the "Virginia Croppings." The old prospector gave his name to the city, crop- pings and district. In June, 1859, rich de- posits of silver ore were discovered by Peter O'Reilly and Patrick McLaughlin, on what is now the ground of the Ophir Mining Company. They were engaged in gold washing, and uncovered a rich vein of sulphuret of silver, when engaged in excavating a place wherein to catch a sup- ply of water for their rockers. The dis- covery was made on ground claimed by Kirby and others. A Mr. Comstock was employed to purchase the claims of Kirby and those holding with him, hence, Com- stock's name was given to the lode. The Comstock Lode — is about four miles in length, the out-croppings extend- ing in a broad belt along the mountain side. It extends under Virginia City and Gold Hill; the ground on which these cities are built bemg all " honey-combed " or undermined ; in fact, the whole moun- tain is a series of shafts, tunnels and cav- erns from which the ore has been taken. The vein is broken and irregular at inter- vals along its length as far as traced, owing to the formation of the mountain. It is also very irregular in thickness. In some places the fissure ranges from 30 to as high as 200 feet in width, while at other points the walls come close together. The great- est variation in width occurs at a depth of from 400 to 600 feet from the surface. The principal silver ores of this lode are steph- anite, vitreous silver ore, native silver and very rich galena, Pyrargyrite,' or ruby silver, horn silver and polybasite, are found in small quantities, together with iron and copper pyrites, zinc-blende, car- bonate of lead, pyromorphite and native gold. The number of mills in and around Gold Hill and Virginia, and at other points, which work on ore from this lode, is be- tween 75 and 80. They are scattered around through several counties, including Storey (where the lode lies), Lyon, Washoe and Ormsby, from 30 to 40 in number being in Storey county. Th e product of the Com- stock lode has been beyond that of any silver vein of which we have anj^ record ; furnishing the largest portion of bullion produced on the Pacific Slope, From the Mining Directory of the American Mining Agency of Chicago, we learn that the gross yield of all the mines of the precious metals in the State of Nevada, for the six years commencing with 1871, have been $176,734,150. The yield of the "Bonanza Mines " for the first nine mouths of 1877, were $23,434,000, of which $17,280,000 were paid out in divi- dends. This would make the yield for the year, at the rate of $31,247,000. Big medi- cine ! eh ? But let us return to Reno before we get to watching the " indicator: " and start once more for the West. Leaving Reno, our course is south of west, up the Truckee River. The hills are A^T) PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 177 loftier, and were — at the time the railroad was built — covered with dense pine for- ests ; now, only stumps and rocks appear, with very little undergrowth. As we enter the Truckee Canyon, we seem to have en- tered a cooler, pleasanter, and more invig- orating atmosphere. The aroma of the spruce and pine, which comes with the mountain breeze, is pleasant when com- pared with that of the alkali plains. Verdi — is the first station from Reno, 10.48 miles. Passing on, up, 1.23 miles brings us to a new side-track station called Essex — which we pass ; continuing along the river, with its foaming current now on our left, first on one side, then on the other, runs this beautiful stream until we lose sight of it altogether. The road crosses and re-crosses it on fine Howe truss bridges, running as straight as the course of the mountains will permit. The moun- tains tower up on either hand, in places sloping and covered in places with timber from base to summit, in others precipitous, and covered with masses of black, broken rock. 'Tis a rough country, the canyon of the Truckee, possessing many grand and imposing features. On the road up we pass a new station called Mystic — 5.11 miles from Essex, and four miles further Bronco — another side-track. Occa- sional strips of meadow land are seen close to the river's edge, but too small and rocky to be of any use, only as grazing land. Now we cross the dividing line, and shout as we enter California, a few miles east of Boca — a small station 5.7 miles from Bronco. The lumber interest is well rep- resented here, huge piles of ties, boards and timber lining the roadside. The river seems to be the means of transportation for the saw logs, immense numbers of them being scattered up and down the stream, 9 with here and there a party of lumbermen working them down to the mills. A great quantity of ice is cut and housed here, and an extensive beer brewery erected. The Truckee River, from Reno to its mountain source, is a very rapid stream, and aftbrds dam-sites and mill-sites innu- merable; yet, it is related that some years ago, before the completion of the Pacific railroad, a certain Indian agent, who is now an Ex-U. S. Senator, charged up to the Government an " item " of $40,000, as being the purchase-money for a mill-site on the Truckee, near a dam site. Some hungry aspirant for official posi- tion, who had a hankering after the "loaves and fishes," exposed the ''item," and a committee was sent out from Washington to investigate the matter. This committee, went out by " Overland Stage," had a good time, traversed the country in every direc- tion, explored the river thoroughly, from the Desert to Lake Tahoe, and reported that they could find numberless dam-sites by mill-sites, but could not find a mill by a dam-site. From Boca it is 1.57 miles to Prosser Creek. — Here is a long "V" flume for the accommodation of the lum- bermen, and where large quantities of ice is cut and stored for market. Another run of 4.1 miles and the train passes Proctors — and 2.76 miles more and our train comes to the end of the Truckee division, at Truckee City. Truckee City — This place is situ- ated on the north bank of the Truckee River, in the midst of what was once a heavily timbered region, much of which has been cut off. The principal business of the place is lumbering, though an ex- tensive freighting business is carried on with other points in the mountains. One can hardly get around the town for the piles of lumber, ties and wood, which cover the ground in every direction. Some fine stores and a good hotel are the only buildings which can lay claim to size and finish corresponding with the growth and business of the place. The town is com- posed of wooden buildings, mostly on the north side of the railroad. The very sharp roofs of the buildings point out the fact that the snow falls deep and moist here, sufficiently so to crush in the roofs — unless they are very sharp and strong. The town contains about 2,000 in- habitants, nearly all of whom are directly 178 CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST TIiyCE T^^BLE SACRAMENTO DIVISION. SACRAMENTO TO TRUCKEE. F. A. FiLLMOKE, Division Superintendent. WEST FROM OMAHA. SACRAMENTO TIME. EAST FROM SAN FRANCISCO. Daily Emigrant and freight. Daily Express, lst&2dCl's Distance irom Omaha. STAT ONS. Elevation Daily Express, l8t&2dCrs Daily Emigrant, and Ireight. 8:15 m 9:05 9 -55 3:05 a m 4::35 4:00 4:22 4:34 4:45 5:13 5:30 5:53 6:10 6:17 6:25 6:44 7:00* 7:37 7:48 8:00 8:25 8:43 9:04 9:15 9:32 9:43 10:00 10:12 10:25 a m ...1655.. ...1662,. ...1671.. Lv tTKUCKEE Ar Strong's Canyon . . . tSummit ... 5845. ....6780.. ....7017.. 12:00 m 11 :3r. 11:05 10:34 10:10 9:55 9:18 8:50 8:25 8:00 7:50 7:40 7:12 6:30* 6:07 5:51 5:35 5:10 4:50 4:27 4:00 -3:46 3:35 3:20 3:09 3 :00 p m 12:30 am 11:50 11 :05 10:34 ..1675.. Cascade ...6519.. 10:30 10 -55 ...1679.. Tamarack ....6191.. 10:07 11:15 ..1683... ijiCisco ....5939.. ....5229.. 9:45 12 00 m ...1691.. ...1697.. ^Emigrant Gap 8:35 12:25 am :j:Blue Canyon ....4677.. ....4154.. ....3612.. 7:40 12:50 ...1702.. Sandy Run 6:50 1:10 ....1706.. tAlta 6:10 1 :33 ...1708.. Dutch Flat ....3403.. 5:40 1 :47 ...1710.. tGold Run ....3206.. 5:20 2:23 2:55 ...1617.. ...1721.. ...1725.. ...1728.. C. H. Mills ... tColfax .. .2691.. ...2421.. 4:40 4:05 3::30 3:55 N.E. Mills AnDleeate ...2280.. ....2000.. 3:15 2:45 4:55 ...1732.. ClipDer Gap ....1759.. 2:25 5:00 ...1739.. ...1744.. fAuburn ....1362.. 1:35 5:30 +New Castle .... 969.. 1:00 6;10 ...1750.. Pino .... 403.. 12:15 am 6::30 ...1752.. tRocklin .... 248.. 11:20 7:25 ...1757.. i Junction . .... 163. 10:57 7:45 ...1760.. Antelope .... 154. 10:38 8:20 . .1767.. Arcade . .. 55. 10:05 8:42 ...1771.. ...1775.. ...A. M. Bridsre .... 52.. 9:42 9 :00 am Ar....$SACRAMENTO- ....Lv .... 30.. 9:25 pm tDay Telegraph. :}: Day and Night Telegraph. * Meals. The passenger's attention is directed to the elevation of each station. or indirectly connected witli the lumber trade. The Republican^ a weekly paper, repre- sents the interests of the Truckeeites. The educational interests have been pro- vided for, Nevada county, in which Truckee City is situated, being justly celebrated for her public schools. There are three hotels in Truckee, the principal one being the Truckee House. At certain seasons of the year the cars stop before this house thirty minutes, affording time for the traveler to obtain a good meal. The Truckee House is the headquarters of the tourists who stop over to visit ob- jects of interest in this locality. This sta- tion is the end of the Truckee, and the commencement of the Sacramento divis- ibns. The company have a 24-stall round- house and the usual machine and repair shops of a division located here. A line of stages leaves Truckee, daily, for Donner Lake, two miles ; Lake Tohoe, twelve miles; Sierraville, 30 miles. A good wagon-road connects Sierra City with Truckee Tiia the Henness Pass and Donner Lake. Freight is re-shipped here for Donner and Talioe Lakes, Sierraville, and the va- rious towns in Sierra Valley. There are some wholesale and retail houses in Truckee, which do a large business. Lake Tahoe, or Bigler, as it is called on some of the official maps, is located twelve miles south of Truckee. Tahoe is an In- dian name signifying "big water," and is pronounced by the Indians, "Tah-oo," while the "pale faces " pronounce it "Ta- hoe." From Truckee a splendid road af- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 179 FIRST WELLS, FARGO & CO.'s EXPRESS OVER THE MOUNTAINS. fords one of the best and most pleasant drives to be found in tlie State. The road follows the river bank, under the shade of waving pines, or across green meadows until it reaches Tahoe City,, at the foot of the lake. Here are excellent accommoda- tions for travelers — a good hotel, boats, and a well-stocked stable. According to the survey of the State line. Lake Tahoe lies in two States and live counties. The line between California and Nevada runs north and south through the lake, until it reaches a certain point therein, when it changes to a course 17 degs. east of south. Thus the counties of El Dorado and Placer, in California, and Washoe, Ormsby and Douglas, in Nevada, all share in the waters of the Tahoe. Where the line was surveyed through the lake it is 1,700 feet deep. There are three steamboats on the lake' but only one, the " Stanford," takes ex- cursionists. The trip on this steamer is very fine, but for our personal use, not the way w^e like to travel for sight-seeing, at this, the loveliest of all drives in the world. Our choice is a good saddle animal, or a good team of horses, an agreeable com- panion, and start around the western shore. Six miles from Tahoe, over a beautiful road, we reach Sugar Pine Point, a spur of mountains covered with a splendid forest of sugar pine, the most valuable lumber, for all uses, found on the Pacific coast. There are fine streams running into the lake on each side of the point. We now arrive at Emerald Bay, a beautiful, placid inlet, two miles long, which seems to hide itself among the pine-clad hills. It is not over 400 yards wide at its mouth, but 180 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST widens to two miles inland, forming one of the prettiest land-locked harbors in the world. It is owned by Ben Holiday, At the south end of Tahoe, near the site of the Old Lake House, near Tallac Point, Lake Valley Creek enters the lake, having wound among the hills for many miles since it left the springs and snows which feed it. The valley of Lake Creek is one of the loveliest to be found among the Sierras. The whole distance, from the mountain slope to the lake, is one continual series of verdant meadows, dotted with milk ranches, where the choicest butter and cheese are manufactured. The next ob- ject of interest met with is a relic of the palmy days of staging: Friday Station, an old stage station, established by Burke in 1859, on the Placer- ville and Tahoe stage road. Ten miles further on we come to the Glenbrook House a favorite resort for tourists. From Glen- brook House there is a fine road to Carson City, between which ply regular stages. This is a lovely place, and a business place too, as a half-dozen saw mills are located here, which turn out a million and a half feet of lumber weekly. Four miles further we come to The Cave, a cavern in the hillside fully 100 feet above and overhanging the lake. Following around to the north end of the lake, and but a short distance away, are the celebrated Hot Springs, lying just across the State line, in Nevada. Near them is a splendid spring of clear, cold water, totally devoid of miMcral taste. The next object which attracts our attention is Cornelian Bay, a beautiful indenture in the coast, with fine gravel bottom. Thus far there has been scarcely a point from which the descent to the water's edge is not smooth and easy. Passing on around to the west side we re- turn to Tahoe City. Around the lake the land is generally level for some distance back, and covered with pine, fir and bal- sam timber, embracing at least 800 sections of as fine timbered land as the State afibrds. It is easy of access and handy to market, the logs being rafted down the lake to the Truckee, and thence down to any point on the railroad above Reno. So much for the general appearance of Lake Tahoe. To understand its beauties, one must go there and spend a short time. "When once there, sailing on the beautiful lake, gazing far down its shining, pebbly bottom, hooking the sparkling trout that make the pole sway and bend in the hand like a willow wand, few will have a desire to hurry away. If one tires of the line and of strolling along the beach, or sailing over the lake, a tramp into the hills with a gun will be rewarded by the sight of quail, grouse, deer and possibly a bear. We have now circled the lake and can judge of its dimensions, which are 22 miles in length and ten in width. [While on a recent visit to San Fran- cisco, we learned, on good authority, that a movement was on foot, urged by several capitalists in that city, to build a large hotel at Tallac Point during the year, from which a stage line will convey passengers over the High Sierras, via Hope Valley and Blue Lake, to the Calavera Big Trees; distance 65 miles ; fare, about $20.] This would certainly be a lovely trip, passing as it does, through the grandest of the High Sierra range, and to the noted Blue Lake, so long talked about as the great reservoir from which the City of San Francisco is to be supplied with water in the future. For scenery, variety of game, trout, etc., this route will be found very attractive. We will noM^ return to Truckee, Donner Lake — a lovely little lakelet, the " Gem of the Sierras," lies two and a half miles northwest of Truckee, It is about three and a half miles long, with an average width of one mile, and at the deep- est point sounded, is about 200 feet. This and Lake Tahoe are, by some, thought to be the craters of old volcanoes, the moun- tains around them presenting unmistak- able evidences of volcanic formation. The waters of both lakes are cold and clear as crystal, the bottom showing every pebble with great distinctness under water 50 feet deep. It is surrounded on three sides by towering mountains, covered with a heavy growth of fir, spruce and pine trees of im- mense size. Were it not for the occasional rattling of the cars, away up the mountain side, as they toil upward to the " Summit," and the few cabins scattered here and there along the shore, one would fancy that he was in one of nature's secret retreats, where man had never ventured before. A small stream, which tumbles down the mountain side, winds its way through the dense wood, and empties its ice-cold flood in the upper end or head of the lake, which rests against the foot of "Summit" Mountain. From the Lake House, situated as it is on a low, gravelly flat, shaded by giant pines, AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 181 a veiy fine view of the railroad can be ob- tained. Within sight are four tunnels and several miles of snow-sheds, while .behind and seemingly overhanging the road, the mountains — bald, bleak, bare, massive piles of granite — tower far above their precipitous sides, seeming to bid defiance to the ravages of time. A fine road has been graded along the right-hand shore, from tlie station, forming a splendid drive. The " old emigrant road " skirts the foot of the lake (where the Donner party per- ished, see Annex No. 33), and following up the stage road, climbs the " Summit " just beyond the long tunnel. Originally, it struck the Divide at Summit Valley; from thence it followed the valley down for several miles, then struck across the crest- spur, and followed the Divicje down from Emigrant Gap. The business of lumbering is carried on quite extensively at the lower end of the lake. The logs are slid down the moun- tain sides in"" shoots," or troughs made of large trees, into the lake, and then rafted down to the mill. On the west side of the lake the timber has not been disturbed, but sweeps down from the railroad to the water's edge in one dense unbroken forest. The lower end of the lake is bordered with green meadows, covering an extent of several hundred acres of fine grazing land. From the foot of the lake issues a beautiful creek, which, after uniting with Coldstream, forms the Little Truckee River. Coldstream — is a clear, cold mountain stream, about fifteen miles long. It rises in the "Summit" Mountain, opposite Summit Valley. Some excellent grazing land borders the creek after it .leaves the mountain gorge. Fishing and Hunting — In Donner and Talioe lakes is found the silver trout, which attains the weight of 20 pounds. There are many varieties of fish in these lakes,but this is most prized and most sought after by the angler. It is rare sport to bring to the water's edge one of these sleek-hided, sharp-biting fellows — to handle him delicately and daintily until he is safely landed; and then, when fried, baked, or broiled brown, the employment of the jaws to masticate the crisp, juicy morsels — it's not bad jawing. The water near the lake shore is fairly alive with white fish, dace, rock-fish, and several other varieties — the trout keeping in deeper water. There is no. more favorite resort for the angler and hunter than these lakes and the surround- ing mountains, where quail, grouse, deer, and bear abound. These lakes were once a favorite resort for the "San Francisco schoolmarms," who annually visit this locality during the summer vacation. The Railroad Company generally passed them over the route, and they had a happy week — romping, scram- bling and wandering over the mountains, and along the lake shore, giving new life and animation to the scene. The gray old hills and mighty forests re-echo with their merry laughter, as they stroll around the lake, gathering flowers and mosses, or, per- haps, essaying their skill as anglers, to the great slaughter of the finny inhabitants of the lake. Sierra Valley — lies about 30 miles from Truckee City, among the Sierras, It is about 40 miles long, with a width of from five to seven miles. It is fertile, thickly settled, and taken in connection with some other mountain valleys, might be termed the Orange county of California — from the quantity and quality of butter and cheese manufactured there. In the mountain valleys and on the table-lands the best butter and cheese found in the State are manufactured — the low valleys being too warm, and the grasses and water not so good as found here. In Sierra, and many other mountain valleys, good crops of grain and vegetables are grown in favorable seasons, ibut the surest and most profitable business is dairying. The flourishing town of Royalton is situated in this valle}^ Honey Lake — an almost circular sheet of water, about ten miles in diameter, lies about 50 miles north of Truckee City. Willow Creek and Susan Creek enter it at the north, while Lone Valley Creek empties its waters into the southern por- tion of the lake. Some fine meadow and grazing land is found in the valleys bordering these streams, which has been occupied by settlers, and converted into flourishing farms. Susanville, the principal town in the vallc}', is situated north of the lake. It is connected by stage with Reno, Nevada, and Oroville, California. We now take leave of Truckee City and its surroundings, and prepare to cross the " Summit of the Sierras," 14 miles dis- tant. With two locomotives leading, we cross the North Fork or Little Truckee on a single-span Howe truss bridge, and make J 182 CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST directly across the broken land bordering the lake meadows, for the foot of the Sierras. Then skirting along the hill-side, through long snow sheds, with the spark- ling Coldstream on our right, winding through the grassey valley and among waving pines, for 6.52 miles, we pass Strong's Canyon — and bend, around the southern end of the valley, which borders DonnerLake, then crossing Coldstream, commence the ascent of the mountains. Soon after passing this side- track, our train enters a snow-shed, which — with a number of tunnels, — is continuous for twenty-eight mile«, with but a few " peek-holes," through which to get a glimpse at the beautitul scenery along this part of the route — yet, we shall de- scribe it, all the snme. As the train skirts the eastern base, rising higher and higher, Donner Lake is far below, looking like a lake of silver set in the shadows of green forests and brown mountains. Up still, the long, black line of the road bending around and seemingly stealing away in the same direction in which we are moving, though far below us, points out the wind- ing course we have followed. Up, still up, higher and higher toils the train, through the long line of snow-sheds leading to the first tunnel, while the loco- motives are snorting an angry defiance as they enter the gloomy, rock-bound chamber. ISuniiuit — is 14.31 miles west of Truckee, the highest point on the Sierra Nevada Mountains, passed over by the Central Pacific railroad, 7,017 feet above the level of the sea. Distance from Omaha, 1,669 miles ; from San Francisco, 245 miles. This is not the highest land of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, by any means, for bleak and bare of vendure, rise the granite peaks around us, to an altitude of over 10,000 feet. Piles of granite — their weather- stained and moss-clad sides glistening in the morning sun — rise between us and the " western shore," hiding from our sight the vast expanse of plain that we kngw lies be- tween us and the golden shores of the Pacific Ocean. Scattering groups of hardy fir and spruce, line the mountain gorges, where rest the everlasting snows that have rested in the deep shady gu'ches, near the summit of these towering old mountains — who can tell how long? They have lain, evidently, since Adam was a very small boy, or the tree sprouted from which our apple-loving ancestor, Eve, plucked that bedeviled fruit. We are on the dividing ridges which separate the head-waters of several moun- tain rivers, which, by different and tor- tuous courses, find at last the same common receptacle for their snow-fed waters— the Sacramento River. Close to our right, far down in that fir-clad gorge, the w^aters of the South Yuba leap and dance along, amid dense and gloomy forests, and over almost countless rapids, cascades and waterfalls. This stream heads against and far up the Summit, one branch crossing the road at the next station, Cascade. After passing Cisco, the head waters of Bear River can be seen lying between the Divide and the Yuba, whicli winds away be- yond, out of sight, behind another mountain ridge. Farther on still, and we find the American River on our left. These streams reach the same ending the Sacramento River but are far apart, where they mingle with that stream. There is no grander scenery in the Sierras, of towering mountains, deep gorges, lofty precipices, sparkling water- falls and crystal lakes, than abound within an easy distance of this place. The tourist can find scenes of the deepest interest and grandest beauty ; the scholar and philoso- pher, objects of rare value for scientific in- vestigation ; the hunter and the angler can find an almost unlimited field for his amusement; the former in the gorges of the mountains, where the timid deer and fierce grizzly bear make their homes; the latter among the mountain lakes and streams, where the speckled trout leaps in its joyous freedom, while around all, is the music of snow-led mountain torrent and mountain breeze, and over all is the clear blue sky of a sunny clime, tempered and softened by the shadows of the everlasting hills. Tunnels and Snow-Sheds. — From the time the road enters the crests of the " Sum- mit," it passes through a succession of tun- nels and snow-sheds so closely connected that the traveler can hardly tell when the cars enter or leave a tunnel. The Summit tunnel, the longest of the number, is 1,659 feet long, the others ranging from 100 to 870 feet In length. The snow-sheds are solid structures, built of sawed and round timber, completely roofing in the road for many miles (see illustration, pages, 85-101.) When the road was comi)leted, there were 23 miles of shed built, at an actual cost of $10,000 per mile. With the additions . since made, the line reaches about 45 miles, which includes the AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 183 whole length of the deep snow line on the dividing ridge. When we consider that along the summit the snow falls from 16 to 20 feet deep during a wet winter, we can imagine the necessity and importance of these structures. By this means the track is as clear from snow in the winter as are the valleys. The mighty avalanches which sweep down the mountain sides in spring, bearing everything before them, pass over the sloping roofs of the sheds and plunge into the chasms below, while beneath the rushing mass the cars glide smoothly along, the passengers hardly knowing but that they are in the midst of an enormous tunnel. Where the road lies clear on the divide or level land, the sheds have sharp roofs, like those of any buildmg calculated to withstand a great weight of snow. But where the routc]l Flat — is 1.87 miles from Alta ; old settlers call it German Level. The town of Dutch Flat is situated in a hollow, nearby and to the right of the road, a por- tion of it being in plain view. The town contains many good buildings, churches, schools, and hotels. The -^«r??ier, a weekly newspaper, is a new institution at Dutch Flat. Population, about 2,000. One feature of this town is worth noting, and worthy of commendation — the beautiful gardens and fine orchards which ornament almost every house. In almost all of the moun- tain towns — in fact in all of the older min- ing towns — the scene is reproduced, while many of the valley towns are bare of vines, flowers or fruit trees ; the miner's cabin has its garden and fruit trees attached, if water can be had for irrigation, while half of the farm-houses have neither fruit trees, shrubs, flowers nor gardens around them. Stages leave this station daily for Little York, You Bet and Red Dog. Freight 184 Sprin mit a Tj miles Ci impo durir throi of 50 up tl Fr and t live, the ] far li of C gran lowe Sacr the sligl two mod of tl low( grar Spai hors ovei emi ride cou ocei P lea\ up site wit] aro mil we J ber lun ity. mo tio) loc in^ we fre tio or ag be as th< pi. MIRROR LAKE AND REFLECTION VO-SEMITE VALLEY, CAL. (See Annex No. 40.) (13.) i AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 185 teams leave liere for all the above named towns and mining camps in this vicinity. Little York — a mining town, three miles northwest of Dutch Flat, contains about 500 inhabitants. You Bet — is six miles from Little York, also a mining town, about the same size. Red Dog — seven and a-lialf miles from You Bet, is still another small mining town. These towns are situated on what is called the Blue Lode, the best large placer mining district in the State. The traveler will see the evidences of the vast labor performed here, while standing on the platform of the cars at Alta, Dutch Flat or Gold Run stations. The Blue Lode ex- tends from below Gold Run, through the length of Nevada, on, into and through a portion of Sierra county. It is supposed to be the bed of some ancient river, which was much larger than any of the existing mountain streams. The course of this old river was nearly at right angles with that followed by the Yuba and other streams, which run across it. The channel is from one to five miles wide in places — at least the gravel hills, which are supposed to cover the bed, extend for that distance across the range. Many of these gravel hills are from 100 to 500 feet high, covered with pine trees from two to six feet in diameter. Petrified trees, oak and pine, and other woods, such as manzanita, mountain malio g a n y and maple, are found in the bed of the river, showing that the same varieties of wood existed Mdien this great change was wrought, as are now growing on the adj acent hill-sides. Hydraulic Mining— The traveler will ob- serve by the road-side, mining ditches and flumes, carrying a large and rapid stream of water. These ditches extend for many miles, tapping the rivers near their sources — near the regions ot perpetual snow. By this means the water is conveyed over the tops of the hills, whence it is carried to any claim below it. The long, high and nar- row flume, called a *' telegraph," car- ries the water from the ditch, as nearly level as possible, over the claim to be worked. To the *' telegraph " is at- tached a hose with an iron pipe, or nozzle, through which the water rushes with great velocity. AVhen directed against a gravel bank, it cuts and tears it down, washing the dirt thoroughly, at a rate astonishing to those unacquainted with hydraulic min- ing. (See accompanying illustration.) The water carries rocks, dirt and sand through the tail race, and into the long flumes, where the riffles for collecting the gold are placed. Miles and miles of the flumes have been built, at an enormous expense, to save the gold carried away in the tail- ings. Around Little York and You Bet, the lode is mixed too much with cement to mine in this manner with profit, hence mills have been erected where the cement is worked in the same manner as quartz rock — crushed and then amalgamated. Qold Run — is 2. 13 miles beyond Dutch Flat, and is a small mining town, contain- ing about 200 inhabitants. Around it you hydraulic mining. 186 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST can see, on every hand, the miner's work. Long flume beds, which carry ofi" the washed gravel and retain the gold ; long and large ditches full of ice-cold water, which, directed by skillful hands, are fast tearing down the mountains and sending the washed debris to fill the river-beds in the plains below. There are a set of ''pipes" busily playing against the liill-side, which often comes down in acres. All is life, energy and activity. We don't see many children peeping out of those cabins, for they are not so plentful in the mining districts as in Salt Lake. But we do see nearly all of the cabins sur- rounded with little gardens and orchards, which produce the finest of fruits. Descending the mountain rapidly, amid mining claims, by the side of large ditches, through the deep gravel cuts, and along the grassy hill-sides, until, on the left, a glimpse of the North Fork of the Ameri- can River can be had, foaming and dash- ing along in a narrow gorge full 1,500 feet beneath us. Farther on we see the North Fork of tlie North Fork, dashing down the steep mountain at right angles with the other, leaping from waterfall to waterfall, its sparkling current resembling an airy chain of danc- ing sunbeams, as it has- tens on to unite with the main stream. Now we lose sight of it, while it passes through one of those grand canyons on- ly to be met with in these mountains. C.H.Mills- a sta- tion where trains sel- dom stop, is 5.96 miles from Gold Run. The passenger should be on the lookout, and look to the left — south — as the scene changes with every revolution of the wheels. A few moments ago we left the canyon behind — now, behold, it breaks on our view again, and this time right under us, as it were, but much farther down. It seems as though we could j ump from the platform into the river, so close are we to the brink of the preci- pice; steadily on goes the long train, while far below us the wa- ters dance along, the river looking like a winding thread of silver laid in the bottom of the chasm, 2,500 feet below us. This is Cape Horn, one of the grandest scenes on the American Continent, if not in the world. Timid ladies will draw back with a shudder — one look into the awful chasm being sufficient to unsettle their nerves, and deprive them of the wish to linger near the grandest scene on the whole line of the trans-continental railroad. Now look farther down the river and behold that black speck spanning the sil- ver line. That is the turnpike bridge on the road to Iowa Hill, though it looks no larger than a foot plank. Now we turn sharp around to our right, where the towering masses of rock have been cut down, affording a road-l)ed, where a few years ago the savage could not make a foot trail. Far above us they rear their black crests, towering away, as it were, to the clouds, their long shadows falling far across the lovely little valley now ly- ing on our left, and a thousand feet below us still. We have lost sight of the river, and are following the mountain side, look- ing for a place to cross this valley and ROUNDING CAPE HORN AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 187 reach the road-bed on the opposite side, which we can see runs parallel with us. Soon it is found, and turning to our left, we cross the valley — Kice's Ravine — on a trestle bridge 113 feet high and 878 feet long, under which can be seen the track of the narrow gauge railroad, from Colfax to Nevada. Gradually the height grows less, until it is reduced, at the end of 600 feet, enough to admit of an embankment being raised to meet it. On, over the em- bankment, which curves around to the left, and now we are on the solid hill-side, and running along opposite the road by which we passed up the valley. We now have our last and best look at the bold bluff. The best view of this noted place is ob- tained when going east, or from the river below. Viewed from the river, the pass- ing train looks like some huge monster winding around the bluff, bold point, puffing and blowing with its herculean labors, or screaming angry notes of de- fiance, or perhaps of ultimate triumph at the obstacles overcome (see page 189). When the road was in course of con- struction, the groups of Chinese laborers on the bluffs looked almost like swarms of ants, when viewed from the river. Years ago, the cunning savage could find only a very roundabout trail by which to ascend, the point, where now the genius and energy of the pale-face has laid a broad and safe road, whereon the iron steed car- ries its living freight swiftly and safely on their way to and from ocean to ocean. When the road-bed was constructed around this point, the men who broke the first standing ground were held by ropes until firm foot-holds could be excavated in the rocky sides of the precipitous bluffs. Colfax — is 4.5 miles from C. H. Mills, and about two miles beyond the high bridge mentioned. This is a regular eat- ing station, and an excellent table is set The company have a large depot here, this being the distributing point for freight bound for Grass Valley, Nevada, and a large scope of mining country. The town is named in honor of Schuyler Colfax, one of the warmest friends and earliest supporters of the road. Colfax is a substantial railroad town. It contains about 1,0U0 inhabitants, is well watered, and has an air of general thrift about it, which marks all the permanent towns along the road. The school and church accommodations are ample; the climate is invigorating and healthy, and the inhabitants a thrifty, driving, enter- prising people; the greater number, na- tives of the State of Illinois, who emi- grated to this country in early days — 1849—50. Illinois Town — is a half-mile west, once a noted freighting point for the sur- rounding mines, now the only business is raising fruit, apples, peaches and pears. Iowa Hill — is a mining town, 12 miles south of Colfax. A good toll-road crosses the American River on the bridge which we saw when rounding Cape Horn, and follows up the mountain to the town, which contains about 250 inhabitants. Formerly stages ran daily to Iowa Hill and the mining camps to the southward, but for some reason, they now run only semi-occasionally. Private conveyance can always be secured at Colfax at reasonable charge. As our trip is for pleasure, and to see all that is worth seeing, we will need to take a trip to the old mining towns of Grass Valley and Nevada. Nevada County XarronF G^ange Railroad. The General Offices are at Grass Valley. .President. John F. Eisdeb Gen''l Superintendent- ,Oen. Pass. Agt. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge ; commenced in January, 1875, and com- pleted May 23, 1876; length, 233^ miles. This is a very crooked road, has 15 trestle bridges, aggregating 5,176 feet, two truss bridges, each 165 feet long, and 97 and 85 feet high, respectively; and two tunnels, aggregating 800 feet. As for the scenery — well, it is immense — the rapid and aston- ishing changes remind one of the Tcaleid- osC'pe, and its wondrous changes. Here are to be seen every variety of mountain scenery, as though a choice morsel of each of the grand beauties of nature had slipped from the hand of the great Architect while distributing them, giving such a variety of magnificent views as are seldom, if ever, found in the same distance traveled. On the route we shall pass through fear- ful chasms, and tortuous canyons ; under and over lofty bridges, through dense for- ests, beside bright green fields and tower- ing mountains; tall pines, and diminutive manzanitas; huge smelting furnaces, and thundering quartz mills ; long water flumes 188 ckofutt's NEW OVERLAND TOURIST and beautiful cascades; large rivers, and tiny sparkling creeks ; dark and gloomy gorges, and fruit-laden orchards ; old placer diggings, new diggings, and immense quartz mines. But come along, and take a look. The train stands just on the south side of the depot at Colfax, and leaves on the arrival of the overland train. Passing along to the eastward, we gradu- ally descend the canyon with the track of the C. P. road away above us on the left, and again to the right, where it curves around Cape Horn, a beautiful view of which is obtained. Following on up, we pass under the high bridge of the Central, one and a-lialf miles from Colfax, and reach the Divide, wiiere the waters run to the north, to Bear River — which we soon reach and cross on a bridge 750 feet long, and 97 feet high ; amid towering pine and spruce trees and the most romantic scen- er}^ — then, 4.5 miles from Colfax, w^e come to the side-track station of You Bet — the town of which is four miles to the east — heretofore described. We now^ come to the Greenhorn. Follow^- ing it up through a 850-foot tunnel, we cross that creek on a trestle and bridge 700 feet long; od, up and over another 450 feet trestle, along the side of the mountain, overlooking the Greenhorn, around the great " S " curve, on a grade of 105 feet to the mile ; thrcmgh heav}^ rock cuts, almost doubling back on our route. Storms — another side-track, b}^ a great saw-mill, is four miles further, but the trains stop only on signal. The moun- tains on the route up to this station are covered with pines, spruce and oaks. The chasms are fearfully grand in places on the left. BuENA Vista — another side-track, in the Noonday Valley, is four miles from Storms, from whence, continuing on up two miles, we reach Kress Summit — with an altitude of 2,851 feel. From the summit the descent is rapid, 151 feet to the mile ; the moun- tains are here covered with small pines and manzanitas, the big timber that once covered them having long since been cut ofl', and used to a great extent in the mines at Grass Valley. On the road down, w^e pass many evidences of placer mining, and, doubtless, Avill see some Chinamen work- ing over the old placers near Union Hill. On the left are several old mills, and just before reaching Grass Valley, away to the right, across a low place in the ridge, can be seen tw^o great Quartz Mills — the Idaho and Eureka. Those mills, although now on our o'ight, will be on our left after we pass the next station. The distance across from track to track is 1,200 feet; around, it is three miles. Grass Valley — This is an old and still a thriving mining town of full 7,500 in- habitants. It is situated 17 miles from Colfax, 85 miles east of Marysville, and five and a-half miles west of Nevada; on the sides of the hills, along the ravines, with comfortable little residences scattered about the nooks and gulches promiscu- ously. It contains some good business blocks, and some fine private residences. The private dwellings, generally, are en- closed in fine orchards and gardens, which give them an air of comfort and home-like beauty. The town derives its prominence from the quartz mines in and around it. No town in the State has produced an equal amount of gold from quartz, and none has added more real wealth to the State at large. In September, 1850, a miner picked up a piece of gold-bearing quartz on Gold Hill. From this, prospecting commenced, and soon several valuable mines were opened. In 1851, the first quartz mill was erected in Boston Ravine, now one of the most populous portions of the tow^n. Grass Valley now contains 19 quartz mills, agregating 305 stamps, besides three large de-sulphurising works. The city is illuminated w itli gas, has two good hotels — the Exchange and the Wisconsin, one daily newspaper, the Grass Valley Union, and the Foothill Tidings, a weekly. Of the quartz mills, one is worthy of special note — the Idaho. Up to January, 1877, this mill had never failed to pay a divi- dend for 100 months in succession, varying from $5 to $25 per share. There are 8,100 shares of a par value of $100; and these shares have sold as high as $750 each. The total receipts for nine years were $4,589,- 255 ; dividends paid, $2,270,750. Stages leave Grass Valley for Marys- ville, west 35 miles. Leaving the depot, which is on the south side and overlooking the town, we turn east, leaving the Idaho mill and the old Eureka mill, (now aban- doned), on our left, and follow up through a section of countiy where are long flumes, and many signs of placer mining, as well as old washed out diggings. We pass some orchards of fruit, a little meadow- land, cross Wolft" Creek, see the Chinamen AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 189 LOOKING UP AT CAPE HORN — See page 187. 190 CROFUTT S XKA^" OVERLAND TOURIST digging over the old claims, note the young pines, and the long "V" flume which brings lumber from the mountains to the east- ward twelve miles, and climb up to the Town-Talk Tunnel, 450 feet long ; elevation 2,774 feet; and then descend, passing old mills and new mills, a portion of the city of Nevada, away across on the oppo- site side of the mountain, peacefully re- posing — probably all unconscious of our near approach. On the descent to the city, we pass the New England mill on the left, and the Pittsburgh mill on the right; then cross a bridge 450 feet long over Gold Run Creek, where considerable placer mining is still being done, and after a run of five and a half miles from Grass Valley, arrive at IITevacla — This city is the county seat of Nevada county, situated on Deer Creek, a rapid stream with rugged canyon walls, and contains a population of about 4,300. There are here seven stamp mills, agrega- ting 110 stamps, two de-sulphurizing works, and, when sufficient water can be had for the purpose, an extensive business is carried on in hydraulic mining. The place is rather irregularly laid out, owing to the formation of the land and the creek which runs through a portion of the the town. There are some good business blocks, good county buildings, several hotels, of which the principal is the Union ; one daily newspaper, the Transori^t; and one weekly, the Gazette. There arc some very nice private residences, surrounded with orchards, fruit and beautiful shrub- bery, which contrast strikingly with the bare, brown, or red old hillsides. The first mining in Nevada was placer, creek and gulch-washing. 1'he mines were very rich, and lasted several years. During this time the famous hill " dig- gings," a part of the " old river bed," were discovered and opened. They, too, i)roved a source of great wealth, though many miners became "dead broke" before the right system — hydraulic mining with long flumes — was inaugurated. These mines proved very extensive and lasting, and yet form one of the chief sources of the city's wealth. Of late years the attention of the people has been directed to cement and quartz mining, and several very valuable quartz veins have been opened, and fine mills erected on them. The quartz interest is now a decided feature in the business of the city. Stages leave Nevada daily for North San Juan, 14 miles; Comptouvillc, 22 miles; Forest City, 45 miles, and Downieville, 50 miles. North San Juan — is a lively mining town of 1,500 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in hydraulic or other min- ing. Theyield of the Milton Company's mill for 1877, was $233,000; the Manzanita mine, $155,713, for the same year. Or- chards and vineyards are numerous, also some fine private residences. CoMPTONViLLE — is another small min- ing town, of about 500 inhabitants, most of whom are dependent on placer mining, and they have a portion of the " old chan- nel " or hill mines in the immediate vicinity. Forest City — is a place of about 400 inhabitants, also a mining town, working " drift diggings." DowNiEviLiiE — the largest town in Sierra county, is situated on Yuba River, with a population of about 1,000. Bloomfield — is twelve miles from Ne- vada, sometimes called ''Humbug," but the yield of the North Bloomfield Co.'s mine for 1877, $291,125, was not much of a humbug. With this hasty fflance at a country where the material for a big book lays around loose, we return to the Overland road, and again to the westward. Leaving Colfax, we follow dow^n Auburn Ravine, at times near its bed and anon winding in and out among the hills, which are here and there covered with small oaks and an occasional large oak and pine, together with the Manzanita, a peculiar shrub, resembling the thorn of the Eastern States, which sheds its hark instead of its leaves. (See Annex No. 50.) X. K, Mills— is the first station after Colfax, 5.6 miles distant, but trains stop only on signal. The country is very rough and broken, and 3.31 miles more brings our train to Applegate — another side-track near some lime kilns. Continuing along with numerous cuts, fills, brfdges and one tun- nel near the next station, 700 feet long, for 2.07 miles, we arrive at Clipper Gap— an unimportant sta- tion. Again onward, we leave the ravine and keep along the foot hills, to hold the grade — passing through many an old washed placer mine, in which, only a few short years ago, could be seen thousands of men digging and washing, washing and digging, from morning till night, seeking AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 101 what is said to be " tlie root of all evil " — GOLD — and a huge root it is; they all point to it ; we are hunting it ; have hunted it for forty years ; struck the trail several times, but it soon got cold ; and it has been diflB- cult for some time to find a "color." Auburn — The county seat of Placer county — is 7.71 miles west of Clipper Gap, and contains about 1,000 inhabitants. Gar- dens, vineyards, and orchards abound, and everything betokens quiet, home-comforts and ease. It has excellent schools and fine churches, and is one of the neatest looking towns in the county. The public buildings, court-house etc., are good, and the grounds well kept. The greater portion of the dwellings stand a little distance from the road. The American, Orleans, and Railroad House, are the principal hotels. The Placer Herald and the Argus, both weekly newspapers, are published here. Stages run daily from Auburn to Pilot Hill, eleven miles'; Greenwood, 14 miles ; Georgetown, 20 miles; Coloma, 22 miles; Forest Hill, 23 miles; Michigan Blufls, 80 miles ; Placerville, 30 miles. AVe are now in the foot-hills: Alabaster Caye is situated eight miles southeast of Auburn, on Kidd's Ravine, about a mile above its junction with the North Fork of the American River. When the cave was first discovered, Aug. 19, 1860, it was a beautiful place, consisting of one room, 100x30 feet. At the north end was a most magnificent pulpit, in the Episcopal Church style, completed with the most beautiful drapery of alabaster sterites, of all colors, varying from white to pink-red, overhanging andsurroundingthe beholder. Immediately under the pulpit was a beau- tiful little lake of water. Beyond this chamber was another, 200x100 feet, with most beautiful alabaster overhangings, in every possible shape of drapery. Vandal hands, have, in late years, destroyed much of its original beauty. After leaving Auburn, we pass through Bloomer Out, (see illustration, page 195), then near the next station we pass over the New Castle Gap Bridge, which, before it was filled up with earth, was 528 feet long and 60 feet high. All trestle bridges and trestle works on both the Union and Central Pacific roads, have all been filled in with rock, earth or iron, within the last five years. IS^ew Castle — is a small place of about 200 inhabitants, 4.89 miles from Au- burn. We pass on through little valleys and among low hills, with evidences of past and a little present mining. Off to the right are the old-time mining- camps of Ophir, Virginia City, Gold Hill, and several others, where yet considerable placer mining is indulged in by the old settlers who are good for nothing else. There are several stone quarries near the station, where a very good article of granite is procured. Just after leaving Newcastle, we catch the first glimpse of the beautiful valley of the Sacramento, froin the windows on the right-hand side of the cars. There has been several points above, where the val- ley could be spen for a moment, but very indistinctly. Passing on by several valu- able stone quarries, for 6.06 miles, we come to Pino — We are rapidly descending, but among the low hills, covered with chap- arral, manzanita and grease-wood, the road winds onward for 3.04 miles further, passing several valuable quarries, to the right and left, when we arrive at Rocklin — Here the company have a machine shop and round-house of 28stalls, built in the most substantial manner, of granite obtained near by. The celebrated Rocklin Granite Quarries are close to the station, on the left-hand side of the road. The granite obtained here is of excellent quality, and does not stain on exposure to the weather. The stone for the State Cap- itol and for many of the best buildings in San Francisco was quarried here. Leaving Rocklin and the foot-hills — the country now opening out into the plains, or the valley bordering the American River — we have no more hills to encounter; yet the country is somewhat uneven, and alter winding around, on a regular grade, for 3.91 miles further, we reach the Jiiiictioii — Roseville Junction — This place is 18.24 miles from Sacramento. Here are several stores, a hotel, and one of the best places on the coast to establish a flouring mill. Using the wheat that is raised near, and finding a ready market in the mines to the east, would have a decided advantage in point of location and freights over any other mill on the coast. At this junction branches off the Oregon division of the Central Pacific, for Marysville and the North Oregon. The road is completed to Redding, 169 miles north. Passengers can change cars here if they choose, or go on to Sacramento, as the trains for the Ore- gon division are made up at that city, and 192 CKOFUTT's XEW OVJiKLAND TOURIST start on the arrival of the morning train Irom San Francisco, about 3 p. m. We shall take a run over this division, starting from Sacramento. (See page 193.) See also map on page 201, and schedule of time in Annex No. 47. Antelope— is 3.9 miles west. The country is more level, and dotted here and there with varieties of oaks. Passenger trains do not stop, but pass on, and 6,43 miles further come to Arcade — a mere side-track. Rolling down 4.56 miles from Arcade, the train slowly crosses a long stretch of elevated road, and then on to the Ameri- can River Bridge, 3.36 miles east of Sacra- mento — which spans the main stream of the American River — and pass along by the orchards and gardens which fringe the suburbs of the capitol of California, the dome of which can be seen on the left, also the State Agricultural Fair Grounds. The long line of machine shops belonging to the Railroad Company, on the left, are passed, and then we come to the Sacra- mento River, on the right, with its crowded wharves, and stop at the city of Sacramento — Until the spring of 1870, this was the western terminus of the Grand Trans-Continental railroad. But upon the completion of the Western Pa- cific, from Sacramento to San Francisco, the two roads were consolidated under the name of the Central Pacific railroad of California, making one unbroken line from San Francisco to Ogden, 883 miles long. The distance from Sacramento to Omuha is 1,776.18 miles; Kansas City, 2,003 miles; to Stockton, 50 miles; San Francisco, 138 miles; Vallejo, 60 miles; Marysville, 52 miles; Portland, Oregon, 643 miles. The city is situated on the east bank of the Sacramento River, south of the Ameri- can, which unites with the Sacramento at this point. It is mostly built of brick ; the streets are broad, well- paved, and bordered with shade trees throughout a large por- tion of the city. It contains numerous elegant public and private buildings, iu- cludingthe State Capitol and county build- ings. Population, 22,000. Churches, of all denominations, are numerous, as well as public and private schools. There are two orphan asylums; one Catholic, by the Sis- ters of St. Joseph, and the other Protestant. Secret orders are well represented, and newspapers are also plentiful, chief of which are the lleconl Union aud the Bee, both daily ; the Journal — German — is a tri-weekly; the Leader, the Agriculturalist and the Rescue, weeklies. The city is lighted with gas and supplied with water by tw^o huge pumps in a building just north of the depot — with a capacity of 90,000 gallons per hour. Hotels are numerous, but the principal ones are the Eagle, Arcade, Orleans and Western. Free "Buses" convey passen- gers from the depot to any of them, or, they can ride past them all on the street cars. In or near the city are located four flouring mills, six iron w^orks, two potteries, smelting works, distilleries, plow works, planing mills, and many other small factories. The Capital Woolen Mills are located here, and consist of main build- ing, 216 by 60 feet, with extent! on 40 by 60 ft. ; total number of spindles, 1,440 ; employ about 65 hands, and use 1,000 lbs. of wool daily. The Johnson & Brady Wine Co. work up 400 tons of grapes annually. The Sac- ramento Beet Sugar Factory is near the city — capacity, from 80 to 100 tons per day; main building, 150 by 63 feet. The fac- tory grounds produce about 700 tons of beets annually. The company employ, when making sugar, 200 whites and 300 Chinese. The principal machine shops of the Central Pacific railroad arc situated, as we have seen, on the north side of the city, and with the tracks, yards, etc., cover about 30 acres. The buildings first erected are of wood, still standing and in use. The new buildings are of brick, comprising a ma- chine, car, paint and blacksmith shops, round-house, and several other buildings. Nearly all the cars used by the company are manufactured here. It is a noted fact that the cars on both C. P. and U. P. R. R., are far superior in size, style and finish to those on the majority of the Eastern roads, and for strength and completeness of the arrangements for comfort in riding, they have no superior on any road. The hospital belonging to the Railroad Co., a large, airy and comfortable build- ing, is located near the shops, where their men are taken care of when sick or dis- abled. It is well conducted, a credit to the company, and of incalculable benefit to those unfortunates who are obliged to seek its shelter. As for the mercantile business, let a few "figures talk" : During the year 1877 the aggregate sales of all kinds of merchandise and manufactured wares, exclusive of local in- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 193 terchange, amounted to the sum of $25,496,- 2G9. This figure represents the aggregate volume of outside trade. The city is laid out in a regular square, the streets running at right angles fronting on the Sacramento River, which here runs nearly north and south. They are num- bered from the river, 1, 2, 3, etc. Those running from the river bank, or east and west, are numbered with the alphabet, A, B, C, etc. There is a quiet beauty, peculiar to this city alone, which renders it attractive to the most careless of travelers. Its well-shaded streets; its beautiful gardens, blooming with an almost tropical luxuriance; its vineyards and orchards, all combine to form a city such as one rarely meets with in California, and nowhere else. Sacramento is endeared to Californians — not by reason of her present beauty and pros- perity, but because she is truly an American city, whose people, by their indomitable energy and perseverance, have raised this monument to our national character, despite the ravages of fire and flood. Not only have they re-built their city, but they have built the ground on which it stands, and to-day the city stands some ten feet above the original site on which Sac- ramento was first established. From the small and unimportant hamlet of a few years ago, it has emerged into a thriving, bustling city. Fires burned the young city to the ground, but it rose — Phoenix like— more beautiful than ever. The floods swept over it, as with a besom of destruction, in the winters of '51 and '52, and the waters were rushing with irresistible force through every street. When they abated, the people went to work and built levees around their city, and fancied themselves secure. Again with the floods, in the winter of '61 and '62, Sacramento was inundated. To guard against a recurrence of these evils, the city bed was raised above the highest known tide, and instead of wearing away a levee, the angry waters find, a solid mass of earth, on which stands the city, against which their eftbrts at destruction are futile. To one who has not resided on this coast, it may at first seem strange that a city should have been located in the midst of such dangers. When Sacramento was laid out, both the Sacramento and American rivers had bold banks above the reach of any floods. But when the thousands of miners commenced tearing down the 10 mountains and pouring the debris into the rivers, the sediment gradually filled up the river bed from twelve to eighteen feet above its former level. Consequently, when the spring sun unlocked the vast volume of water confined in the mountain snows, and sent it foaming and seething in its mad power to the plains, the old and half- filled channel could not contain it, and a large body of country was annually in- undated. Levees were tried in vain; the mighty torrent would not be confined ; hence the necessity of raising the city above its ravages. This has been ac- complished ; and beyond the present line of high grade, a powerful levee surrounds the unfilled portion of the city, on which is a railroad track, forming an iron circle or band, which no past floods have had power to break. These levees are guarded and kept in repair by the Railropd Company. The State Capitol — For a description of this building, see Annex, No. 15. We will now take a run over the Oregon Division. CENTRAL, PACIFIC RAILROAD. For time of passenger train leaving Sacramento see schedule in Annex No. 47. The trains run over the Overland track of the "Central " to Roseville Junction, pass- ing all stations — except where signaled — until the Junction is reached. Our road branches off to the left just before the station is reached, and stops close on the north side of the building, and we hear — " All aboard for Marysville, Cliico and Oregon." We suppose the time is not far distant (in the age of nations) when passengers will hear, on ar- riving at this station: "All aboard for Puget Sound, Hudson Bay, Alaska and Behring Straits; close connections made with the Yankee Tunnel Company, under Behring Straits for all points in Russia, China, Japan, Germany, England, France, and the Holy Land ! " Leaving the Junction, our course is north ; we are whirled along over a fine road-bed, in and out among the foot-hills, with rapid and ever-changing scenery on either hand, through groves of huge old oaks, with large herds of sheep grazing about them, for six miles to Whitney — a signal station in the midst, of sheep ranches — cross Auburn Ravine, and after a run of 4.5 miles, come to Lincoln, which is a village of about 194 CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 300 inhabitants, on the right, are Just above the station, located extensive works for making sewer pipes, and pottery; half a mile further, on the same side, is a new coal mine, recently discovered. A little further a turkey ranche, and then, a real old-fashioned Vermont farm, only there is a great uniformity in the size of the rocks. EwiNG — comes next, a signal station, 4.1 miles from Lincoln, where we cross Coon Creefe: and find the land improving, for 3.5 miles, when we come to Sheridan — This place contains about 20 buildings, situated on an open plain where most of the land is used for grazing purposes. We now cross Bear River, which has broad bottoms, much of which is covered with sand, and the washings from the mines above towards Grass Val- ley. Here we get a good view of the "Buttes," directly ahead. After passing over 2.3 miles from Sheridan, we are at Wheatland — ^a place very properly named, as it is situated in one great wheat- field, with several fine^buildings, a flouring mill, a weekly newspaper — the Recorder — and an enterprising population of farmers, 600 or more. Continuing along, through a fine country 2.6 miles, we come to Reed's — a signal station of a half-dozen buildings. On we go, through broad, rich bottom-land, many miles in width, 4.7 miles to Yuba — another signal station on the south bank of the Yuba River. Here we cross a dyke, which extends up and down the river, as far as you can see, thrown up to keep the river from overflowing its banks, to the damage of the surrounding country. The river bottom there is a mile in width, covered with oaks and willows, across which the road is built on high tres- tles. Crossing over, we find another high dyke on the opposite side, which we cross, and 1.9 miles from Yuba signal station, stop at the old city of Marysville — one of the prettiest towns in the State. It is the county seat of Yuba county, situated on the north bank of the Yuba River, with a population of about 5,000. It was first settled in 1849, and named in honor of the only white woman within its limits, Mrs. Mary Covilland. . The town is built of brick, the streets wide, and laid out at right angles. The chief beauty of Marysville consists in the shrub- bery which ornaments the town, though there are many elegant public buildings and private residences in the city. Scarcely will you find a dwelling that is not sur- rounded with a forest of fruit trees, includ- ing orange and shade trees, or embowered in a mass of vines and flowers. The city is on a level plain, twelve miles from the foot-hills, and protected from the spring floods of the Yuba by a dyke or high em- bankment. The streets are broad and regularly laid out. The city supports one daily paper — the Ajypeal — has several good hotels, chief of which are the United States and Western. There are two seminaries, four public, and numerous private schools ; also live churches, nearly all denominations being represented. The city is lighted with gas, and supplied with M^ater from an artesian well 300 feet deep, from which it is elevated by steam power to a reservoir, and thence conducted all over the city. It has quite a number of manufactories, in- cluding an iron foundry and machine shop, where are maufactured all kinds of mill machinery, stationary engines, &c. Agriculture is now the principal source of wealth of the countr}^ Fruit culture and stock-raisiDg are very remunerative. Saw-mills are numerous in the county, as immense quantities of lumber are ship- ped from Marysville. The greater portion of the mining is now done by the hydraulic process. There are 15 quartz mills in the county, and 36 companies owning canals or mining ditches, one of which cost $500,000, and with its branches is over 150 miles long. There are regular stage lines from Marys- ville to Colusa, 29 miles west ; Downieville, 67 miles northeast; North San Juan, 38 miles ; Grass Valley, 35 miles : La Porte, 65 miles from Marysville. The iBfortherii California. R R. This road branches off" for Oroville, north, and runs to the eastward of Feather River, through Honcut, a small place, and arrives at Oroville,after a run of 26 miles. This town has a population of about 1 ,500, and is the county seat of Butte county. It is an old mining town, principally placer mines, which were at one time very rich, and in some places now are worked to advantage. The Chinese are very thick in the old pla- cer region, and work these old diggings over and over again. The town is em- bowered in fruit and shade trees, beautiful gardens and orchards. This county possesses some of the finest AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 195 BLOOMER CUT. 85 feet deep and 800 ;ce' long. See page 191. agricultural land in the State. All kinds of grain and produce are raised in abund- ance. The vineyards are numerous, pro- ducing large quantities of wine and brandy annually. Rasins are produced in large quantities, and an immense amount of pea- nuts are gathered for market every year. Stock-raising is also an important feature. "Wool is a staple export of the county. Schools and churches are in a flourishing condition — a sure evidence of a people's prosperity. Stages leave Oroville regularly for La Porte, 52 miles; Susanville, 105 miles ; as well as to most of the adjoining towns. Returning to Marysville, we will now take a run to Yuba City — situated about one mile west of Marysville, containing a population of about 1,000, and located on the eastern bank of the Feather River, just above its junction with the Yuba. It is the county seat of Sutter county — first settled in 1849. The county was named after General Sut- ter, the old pioneer, at whose mill race at Coloma, El Dorado county, on the south fork of the American River, January 19th, 1848, the first gold M^as discovered in Cali- fornia. The county has a population of about 6,000, mostly engaged in agriculture. The soil is very fertile, and produces large crops of wheat, oats, and barley ; there are also some very fine vineyards, producing a superior quality of fruit, from which many thousand gallons of wine and brandy are made annually. The city has one newspaper — the Sutter Banner — and several hotels. It is at the head of steamboat navigation, and is con- nected with San Francisco and the world by the road over which we came, and the Oregon division of the C. P., via. Maiys- ville, between which cities a hack runs regularly. The " BuTTEs " — called the "Marysville Buttes," are a noted land-mark to the westward, about ten miles. They consist of a series of peaks that rise from the 196 CIIOFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST crest pf an isolated mountain range, which stands hold and clear among the plains, 1,000 feet in height. From appearances, one would he led to suppose that this ridge crossed the valley at one time, when this was an inland sea; and when the waters escaped from the lower valley, those confined above cut a portion of the ridge down level with the plain, and escaping, left a beautiful valley above. From the summits of their bald peaks a fine view can be had of a great portion of the Sacramento Valley, including Mount Shasta, away to the northward, 220 miles distant, in latitude 41 deg. 30 min., an isolated and lofty volcanic mountain, over 14,440 feet high. It is covered with perpetual snow, and is the head and source of the Sacramento River. (See Annex No. 43.) To the northwest, in the Coast Range of mountains, can be distinctly seen Mts. Linn, St. John and Ripley. On the south, Mt. Diablo, in the Contra Costa range, while on the east, from north to south, is the long range of the Sierra Nevadas, as far as the eye can reach. Returning to Marysville, we again start on our journey. One mile north of the city we cross the track of the Oroville rail- road, pass several cemeteries on the right, also a race track ; then, bear away to the lefc— northwest — and cross the Feather River on a long trestle bridge. Along this river, live oaks and sycamore trees abound by the million. LoMO — a flag station, comes first from Marysville, 6.8 miles. Here are wheat lauds which continue, with an occasional clump of trees, 3.9 miles, to Live Oak — another side track, in the centre of some thousands of acres of young live oaks, and manzanita shrubs. Passing along with the broad valley of the Sacra- mento on the left, which stretches away as far as the eye can reach, and the Feather River Valley on the right, beyond which are the lofty Sierras, we reach Gridley — which is 6.5 miles further north. This station has several hotels and stores, a dozen residences, and a large grain warehouse, and one flouring mill, as, be it remembered, we are now in one of the great wlieat sections of the State. The station was named for a Mr. Gridley — n>aybe it's "Old Bob Gridley" — who knows? — who owns somewhere about 35,000 acres of laud adjoining the station, much of which he has worked by farmers on a division of crops. Live oaks, big opes are numerous all the way for 3.4 miles to Biggs — This is a lively town of about 1,200 population, in the midst of fine wheat lands, with extensive warehouses for stor- ing and handling wlieat in nearly all seasons. This cereal is a large and sure crop. Biggs has a weekly paper — the Iiegister—se\era.l hotels, chief of which is the Planters, and a stage line to Oroville, twelve miles east; fare, $1.00. Tlie place was named for a Mr. Biggs, who, like the Mr. Gridley, is troubled with about 30,000 acres of this wheat land, much of which yields, when properly farmed, 50 bushels to the acre. Leaving Biggs we cross the big canal of the Cherokee Com- pany, which is 18 miles long and 400 feet wide ; the water is used for hydraulic mining, and then for irrigating purposes. After a run of ten miles, all the way through wheat fields, we reach Nelson — composed of about a dozen buildings, surrounded with wheat, wheat, all w^heat. These fields extend far away in every direction. Passing along, we cross Butte Creek, and 6.6 miles from Nelson, come to Dunham — Here is about a dozen build- ings, in the midst of a broad plain studded with occasional oaks. A flouring mill and large warehouses are near the station. Continuing on 6.1 miles, and we stop at the beautiful town of Chico — It is 43 miles from Marysville, 25 miles northwest from Oroville, and five miles east of the Sacramento River, situated in the Chico Valley, Butte county, in the midst of as rich a farming section as the State affords ; population 5,000. The city is lighted with gas, has ample water-works situated near the depot, and has several banks and hotels, chief of which are the Chico House and the Union ; one daily pa- per, the He cord, and one weekly, the B?i- terpHse. To the eastward looms up the Sierra Nevada Mountains, covered with a dense forest of timber, in which are many sawmills, the lumber from which is floated down to within three miles of the city, in a " V " flume, 35 miles in length. The streets are lined with shade trees, groves of oaks, and orchards and gardens are on every hand. Near the town, General Bid- well, the old pioneer, has an extensive ranche — or farm, as it would be called in the Eastern States — which is in a very high state of cultivation, producing abun- dantly all kinds of fruits and plants of the temperate and semi-tropical climes. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 197 Stage routes from Cliico are numerous. Six-horse coaches, in summer, leave for Oroville, 25 miles; Butteville, Plumas Co., 63 miles; fare, 10 cents per mile. Stages leave for Diamondville, eleven miles; Butte Creek, 12 miles; and Hell- town, 14 miles ; also, for Dayton, six miles ; Jacinto, 14 miles ; Germantown, 13 miles ; Willows, 56 miles ; Colusa, 40 miles ; Wil- liams, 49 miles ; Allen, 55 miles ; and Bart- lette Springs, 58 miles. Stages run Mon- days, Wednesdays and Fridays, to St. John, ten miles; Orland, 23 miles; Olimpo, 30 miles ; Coast Range, 35 miles ; Newville, 40 miles. The average fare to all these places is ten cents per mile. Leaving Chico, our course is more M'^est- ward for seven miles to NoRD — a small station about three miles east of the Sacramento River. Next comes a side-track, 2.3 miles further, called Anita — and 2.4 miles further Cana — This place has a population of about 100, most of whom are farmers, as wheat fields are still the rule. On, 2.8 miles further comes Soto — near Deer Creek, and 4.3 miles from Vina — a small station near the Sacra- mento River, in the center of a very fertile region and a great point for grain ship- ments. Continuing on 7.5 miles further, crossing several small creeks, passing some oaks and willows along the creeks, we come to Sesma — a side-track, on the east bank of Sacramento River, which we cross, and stop at Tehama — on the west bank of Sacra- mento River, where boats often land, being a thriving town of about 700 population. The Tocsin heralds the news daily in clar- ion tones, that all may learn that Tehama has a live daily newspaper. The place was, in early days, known as " Hall Cross- ing." Agriculture is the principal feature of the place, although the lumber business is an important item. A " V " tlume brings the lumber down from the mills in theSierras on the northeast, a distance of forty miles, with a capacity of 40,000 feet per day. The country is very fertile. Live oaks are numerous. Lassen's Peak, to the northeast, is a prom- inent feature of the landscape, as it rises 10,578 feet above sea level, which would be about 10,000 feet higher than 'Tehama. Continuing along 12.1 miles further, cross- ing several small creeks, we come to Red Bluffs — the county seat of Tehama county, at the head of navigation on the Sacramento River, with a population of about 2,000. It is situated in the midst of rich agricultural and grazing land, with many thriving vineyards and several hotels, chief of which are the Tremont and Red Bluffs Hotel ; also two weekly newspapers, the Sentinel and the People's Cause. Lum- ber is an important industry, and the man- ufacture of doors, sash and blinds is carried on to a great extent. M't. Shasta, to the north, is a prominent object, rising up out of the valley. Continuing along, crossing several little creeks, bearing away more to the westward, 10.3 miles, we come to Hooker — a signal station, 4.9 miles from Buckeye — another signal station, lo- cated 1.8 miles from Cottonwood — This is a small village in Shasta county, of about 300 population, situated on Cottonwood Creek, about five miles west of the Sacramento River. Turning more to the northeast, a short run of 7.6 miles brings us to Anderson's — a village of about 200 pop- ulation, 6.3 miles from Clear Creek — a small station on a creek of that name, which comes in from the west, and after 4.8 miles further, we come to the end of the road at Redding — ^This place was named for the land commissioner of the railroad com- 'iDany. This is the terminus of the road, having a population of about 500. Redding is 308 miles north of San Fran- cisco, 275 miles south of Roseburgh,Oregon, and 475 miles from Portland. Stages leave Redding daily, with passen- ger, mails and express, for Roseburg, and all intermediate places, distance 275 miles. At Roseburg connections are made with the Oregon & California railroad, for Port- land, 200 miles further. Fare to Roseburgh from Redding, $41.25. This region is fertile in subject matter for our book, but we are limited as to space, and with this hasty glance at the most im- portant features of the country, now re- turn to the city of Sacramento, and again start out on another route. Up the Sacramento River« Stepping on board a light draft steam- boat, at the wharf in Sacramento, we are off for a trip by water. 198 ckofutt's new overland tourist About the first thing to attract the atten- tion of the traveler after leaving the city, will be the " TuiLES," which is the native name given to the rushes which cover the low lands and bays of California. They are of the bulrush family, probably the father of all rushes. They grow from six to ten feet high, and so thick on the ground that it is extremely difficult to pass among them. The lands on which they grow are subject to annual overflows. During the prevalence of the floods, miles and miles of these lands are under water, presentiDg the appearance of one vast lake or inland sea. In the fall and early winter, when the tuiles are dry, they are often set on fire, forming a grand and terrible spectacle, es- pecially during the night. When once the fire attains headway, nothing can quench its fury until the tuiles are swept away to the bank of some water-course, which bars its further progress. The soil composing the land is adobe, of a purely vegetable mold. Wherever it has been reclaimed, it produces grain and vegetables in almost fabulous quantities. It is claimed by many, that, with proper appliances, these lands could be converted into magnificent rice fields ; the advocates of this measure asserting that they possess every requisite of soil, clime, and adapta- bility to irrigation. The State has pro- vided for a system of levees, by which a large amount of land, heretofore known as tuile land, has been successfully reclaimed, and is now counted the most valuable in the State. The country, after leaving Sacramento, is level for a vast distance on either hand ; the "tuiles " are disappearing, and, before we reach Knight's Landing, the left-hand shore is more bold, and the wheat-fields and gardens have taken the place of "tuiles" along the river bank. We have already been to Marysville by railroad, now let us go via Feather River, a beautiful stream, its clear waters contrast- ing advantageously with the muddy waters of the river we have left. We pass through a fine country with wheat farms on the higher lands, and reach Nicholas, a dull, quiet town of about 300 inhabitants, situa- ted at the junction of Bear River with the Feather. Proceeding up the Feather, we pass HOCK FARM, the home of the venerable pioneer of California, General Sutter. It is a lovely place— the old farm-house and iron fort standing on the bank of the stream. Enormous fig trees line the bank, while behind them can be seen the fine orchards and vineyards planted by the General nearly 50 years ago. General Sutter settled in California under a grant from the Russian Government, which con- veyed to him large tracts of land around Sacramento City, including the city site ; also a large tract, of which Hock Farm is a part. Sharpers and swindlers deprived the old pioneer of most of his property, leaving him penniless, and a pensioner on the State. Passing on by the junction of the Yuba and Feather rivers, we soon reach Yuba near Marysville, 65 miles from Sacramento, by water. (See description on page 194) Returning to the Sacramento, the right- hand bank of the river appears low and swampy, covered with "tuiles " for a great distance inland. Passing on, we soon ar- rive at Knight's Landing — a small place — 46 miles from Sacramento. Population about 200. It is quite a shipping point for Yolo county, and is on the line of the California Pacific railroad. This road, in 1873-4, ex- tended to Marysville, crossing the river at this point, but the floods washed away the road-bed on the east side of the river. The road passed into the hands of the " Central" Company, that had a road to Marysville via the Ro&eville Junction. So it never was repaired, but the bridge turned to allow a free passage of the river boats, and has been so, for the last four years, and probably will so remain until it rots down. For a long distance above Knight's Landing, the low marshy plains continue on our right, the higher land covered with wheat on our left, with no towns of any importance to note until we arrive at Colusa — This is a point of considerable trade — 125 miles from Sacramento. It is the county seat of Colusa county, situated on the west bank of the Sacramento River, and contains about 10500 inhabitants. The Colusa Bun is published here. The town was laid out in 1850, by Col- onel Semple, the owner of the "Colusa Grant " — containing two Spanish leagues. It is now the center of a very large farming and grazing country. Schools and churches are well represented. Stages run daily be- tween Colusa and Marysville — 29 miles; also to Williams, nine miles west. Passing on up the river, the country seems to gradually change to a grazing. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 199 instead of a grain country, more especially on the west. About 200 miles further and we reach the Landing of Chico— but we have already described the town on page 196, so we will pass on. On the right-hand side, the shores are low and sedgy most of the way, tit only for grazing when the floods have subsided ; yet we pass intervals of grain fields till we arrive at Red Bluffs— 270 miles from Sac- ramento, at the head of navigation. See description of the town on page 197. We will now return to the city of Sac- ramento, and there take another route. I>o^vii the Sacramento River. Stepping on board of a large passenger and freight boat, we start down the river towards San Francisco. The plains stretch away on either hand, and there is little to be seen except the gardens and farms along the banks on the higher ground, the wide waste of "tulles," and the plains and moun- tains beyond. On the left — away in the dim distance, the hills succeed the plains, the mountains the hills, until the vast pile towers among the clouds. Winding around cui'ves, where the stern of the boat is swept by the willows on the shore, we glide down the river, past sloughs, creeks, and tuile swamps, until we pass Fkeeport, 12 miles from the city, a little hamlet of half a dozen dwellings. Floating along between the low banks, covered with willow and shrub, we pass Mississippi Bend— 24 miles from Sac- ramento. Here the river makes one of its numerous curves, almost doubling back on itself. To the left is the little town of Rich- land, containing a half-dozen dwellings. Now the Nevada Mountains fall behind, and we have one vast plain around us. We pass the outlet of Sutter's Slough, and then the Hog's Back — a long sand-bar, which stretches diagonally across the river. The water here is very shoal. A wing dam has been built from the western shore, half way across the channel, which throws the water into a narrow compass, giving greater depth to the bar. Next comes Cache Creek Slough, on which large quantities of grain are shipped to San Francisco via Sacramento River, from Yolo and Solano counties. Now we are passing along by the Rio Vista hills, which come close to the water's edge on the right-hand shore. These hills are the first we have seen near the river since leaving the city. They consist of one long, low ridge, broken into hillocks on its crest. These hills are ex- cellent wheat land, yielding an abundant harvest. Tlie land is very valuable, though but a few years have passed since it was sold for 25 cents per acre. The town of Rio Vista is situated on the slope of the foot-hills, and contains about 300 in- habitants. Formerly the town stood on the low ground, near the river bank, but the flood of '62 washed it away, car- rying from 40 to 60 houses dowm the river. The people fled to the high lands, where they remained until the passing steamers took them away. For days the little steamer Rescue was plying up and down the river, running far out over the sub- merged plains, picking up the "stragglers," who were surrounded by the waters. Some were found on the house-roofs, with the flood far up the sides of their dwell- ings, and others were rescued from the branches of trees, which afforded them the only resting-place above the waters. The flood of '62 will long be re- membered by those who then dwelt on the banks of the Sacramento. We next pass Collingsville, a long wharf on the right-hand side of the river, with a house or two standing close by. It is a point of shipment of considerable freight, for the country, and grain for the city. A little below this point, the San Joaquin River unites with the Sacramento, entering from the left, forming Suisun Bay (pronounced Soo-e-soon). Antioch— just across the bay — is in Contra Costa county; population, 500. Three miles south, by railroad, are the Mount Diablo coal mines, which yield large quantities of coal. lliere are several manufactories of pot- tery in the town — the clay in the vicinity being a very superior article. The Ledger, a weekly paper, is published here. Atten- tion has lately been attracted to the silk culture, and many thousand mulberry trees have been planted. Passing on down the bay, we enter the Straits of Carquinez, when a long, low wharf on the right attracts our attention. It is fronting the town of Benicia — formerly the capital of the State, at the head of ship navigation, and contains about 2,000 inhabitants. It is a charming, quiet, rambling old town, with little of the noise and bustle of the busy seaport. The J^ew Era, a weekly paper, is published here. 200 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST The United States arsenals and barracks are located near the town, forming an in- teresting feature to the visitor. Benicia is j ustly celebrated for her excellent schools, public and private. The only law school in the State is located here, and also a young ladies' high school, or seminary. It is connected by steamers with Suisun, Sacramento, Stockton, and San Francisco ; by stage with Vallejo, seven miles west, over the rolling hills ; and by hourly ferry — two miles distant, across the Straits — with Martinez — the county seat of Contra Costa county, a small town of about 600 inhabitants. The county is principally de- voted to agriculture and vine culture, the vineyards being numerous, producing over 70,000 gallons of wine per annum. The Alhambra Raucbe, two miles from town, owned by Dr. Strenzel, is thought to be the b(st for its size in the State. It contains 3,500 grape vines, and 5,000 fruit trees. Its proprietor has been awarded a large num- ber of medals and prizes for the ^^best cul- tivated /c;rm," the " best fruity'''' and the '■''best native wine in Galiformay Passing on down the straits, we have a fine view of Vallejo, which lies to our right, near where we enter San Pablo Bay. Turning to the left, 23 miles more brings us to San Francisco. But we must return again to Sacramento, and this time will take a seat in the cars of the California Pacific railroad, operated by the " Central," and start over what is known as The Vallejo Route. Taking our seat in the cars, in the "Cen- tral " depot, the train crosses the bridge — 600 feet long — over the Sacramento River, and pass through the town of Washington — on the west bank, a place of about 1,000 population, then cross the " Tuiles " — a broad belt of overflowed swamp land — on an em- bankment and trestle bridge, raised above the annual floods, until we reach the high- lands, or elevated plains. The trestle bridge affords ample passage for the flood tides. From Sacramento, it is 9.4 miles to Swingle — a small side-track for loading cattle, near by which, large numbers of cattle are kept and fed, preparing for market. From Swingle it is 3.86 miles to Davis — the junction of the Marysville •Branch, where the road passes on north to Knight's Landing and Williams. It con- tains a population of about 600, with many fine private residences, and one weekly newspaper, the Facts. Davisville is in the midst of a fine wheat country, and will remain a point of shipment for the vast crops annually raised in that vicinity. Turning north — from Davis — we pass through large groves of live oak, and highly cultivated fields, and 4.85 miles from Davis, come to a side-track for load- ing cattle, called Merrit — but it did not have merit enough for our train to stop, so we passed along 4.35 miles to Woodland— the county seat of Yolo county, situated three miles west of Cache Creek, in the midst of an extensive plain. The town is one of the most thriving in the State. Population about 3,000. Yolo county, in the summer, is one vast wheat-field — far, almost as the eye can reach, the waving wheat stretches away on either hand. Huge oaks are seen in every direction, and several large warehouses for wheat appear. The principal hotels are the Craft, and the Capital. There is one daily paper, the Mail; and the Democrat, a weekly. Along the road we will observe a number of vineyards. Soon after leaving Woodland, on the right can be seen the race-track where, at certain seasons, some good tiine is made. Again on the left, the track of the North- ern railway branches oft^ for Williams. Groves of oaks, and bands of sheep are numerous. Curtis — a side-track is passed, 5.25 miles from Woodland, and 3.9 miles more brings us to Knight's Landing — at the landing of which we stopped on our way " up the Sacramento." (See description, page 198.) Returning to Woodland, we take the Northern Railway. This road is operated by the " Central," and passes through one conti?iuous wheat field for the whole distance from Woodland to Williams, 39 miles. The stations and distances are Yolo, 4.91 miles ; Blacks, 5.88 miles; Dunnigan, 7.52 miles; Har- rington, 5.04 miles; Arbuckle, 5.17 miles; Berlin, 4.06 miles; Macy, .93 mile; and 5.73 miles more we are at the end of the track at Williams — This place is situated in Colusa county, nine miles west of Colusa, and the Sacramento River. 200 TJ are ; teres just: pub in t you] is c Saci by ovei — tv witl M Cosi inhf vote vine 70,0' Alh OWE best 3,50 pro] ber tiva ''bes P fine rigl: Tur us t' B and tlie the kno T tral 600 and pla( cros ove] ban tlie lane brie tide F S catt catt mai E •Bra AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 201 I 202 'Crofutt's new overland tourist The Hot Sulphur Springs are situated about ten miles west of the station and have been quite a noted resort for invalids. Crude sulphur is also found here in large quantities. Colusa county productions are princi- pally wheat and barley. In 1876, there was 242,609 acres in wheat, which yielded 4,600,000 bushels; of barley there was 34,- 802 acres, which yielded 806,495 bushels. Returning to Davisville Jthstction we start again for the south, through as beau- tiful a farming country as one could wish to see. Just after crossing Putah Creek we come to the great vineyard belonging to a Mr. Briggs. It contains 500 acres, the greater portion of which is devoted to "raisin" grapes, the balance is in almonds, figs, apricots and other fruits. Fremont — is the first station on the bills, 3.79 miles from Davis, but here trains seldom stop. Dixon — is 4.26 miles from Fremont, and is quite a thrifty town, situated in the midst of a fine agricultural section of So- lano county. It has several hotels, a num- ber of stores and one weekly paper — the Tribune. Passing on, 3.3 miles further, Batavia — appears; a side-track, and shipping point for grain. The country is broad and mostly under cultivation. Elmira — is 4.84 miles further; popula- tion about 300, most of whom are agricul turalists. Wheat fields continue. Here the Vaca Valley railroad branches off to the north, through Yolo, the great wheat country, 17 miles to Winters. Cannon — is a flag station, 4.04 miles from Elmira, and 6.47 miles from Fairfield — This town is the county seat of Solano county, situated on a broad plain, with a population of 1,000, and rapidly increasing. Small schooners come up the slough from the Sacramento River, and a rail-track is completed, south, to Benecia, 17 miles, where it is proposed to cross the river, by ferry, until a bridge can be built, and connect with the railroad from Oakland to Martinez — which is now completed. When this new line is opened it will be only 88 miles from Sacramento to San Francisco — with no grades — a sav- ing over the Livermore Pass route of 52 miles, and only two miles longer than by the Vallejo route, 26 miles of which is by steamboat. From Fairfield, it is 5.38 miles to Bridgeport — Just before reaching the station, a short tunnel is passed, through a spur of the western range, which is thrown out to the south, as though to bar our prog- ress, or to shut in the beautiful little valley in the center of which is located the sta- tion. The grade now begins to increase, as our train is climbing the Suscol Hills, which border San Pablo Bay. These hills are very productive, the soil being adobe. To the tops of the highest and steepest hills the grain fields extend, even where machinery cannot be used in harvestiag. In the valley through which we have passed are several thriving towns, but the railroad does not go near enough for us to see them. From Bridgeport, 3.83 miles brings the train to Creston — but it will not stop, but roll down through the hills bordering the bay, 3.7 miles to Napa Junction — Here we are in Napa Valley, which is on the west ; beyond are the Sonoma hills, over which is the So- noma Valley; to the southward San Pablo Bay. At this junction, we meet the Napa Valley branch, which runs north to Calis- toga, 35 miles. (For a description of this bTanch, see page 220 .) Continuing, our route is now south, along the base of the hill we have just crossed, which also runs south to the Straits of Carquinez, the outlet of the Sacramento River, which flows into San Pablo Bay. The Fair Grounds of the counties of Napa and Sonoma are passed, on the right, 3.2 miles, and three miles further appears North Vallejo, and 1.1 miles more. South Vallejo, where the steamboat lays, which conveys passengers over San Pablo and San Francisco Bays, 26.25 miles to the City of San Francisco. A description of this route across the bay, will be found on page 220. As North and South Vallejo are virtually one, we shall speak of them as Vallejo — The town is situated on the southeastern point of the high-rolling, grass- covered hills bordering Vallejo Bay, which is about four miles long and half a mile wide, with 24 feet of water at low tide. The harbor possesses excellent anchorage, and vessels are securely sheltered from storms. The largest vessels find safe waters; and here are laid up the United States ships when not in use on this coast. The naval AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 203 TIDVCE T.A.SIL.E. C. E WESTERN DIVISION. SACRAMENTO TO S AN FRANCISCO. . Fellows, Superintendent. WEST FROM OMAHA. SAN FRANCISCO TIME. EAST FROM SAN FRANCISCO. Daily Emigrant and freight. Daily Express lst&2dcrs Distance from Omaha ..1776.... ..1780.... STATIONS, Altitude . Daily Express 1st «fe 2d el's 2:40 2:25 2:14 1:58 1:50 1 :30 1:17 1:10 12:53 12:40 12:05* pm 11:58 11:44 11:31 11:16 10:50 10:25 10:12 9:55 9:35 9:28 9:14 9:07 9:00 8:50 8:44 8:36 8:32 8:20 8 :00 am Daily Emigrant and freight 11:00 am 11 :25 10:45 am 11:00 11:10 11:25 11 ::33 11:51 12:04 pm 12:10 12:26 12:40 1:00* 1:22 1:35 1:47 2:02 2:30 2:50 3:05 3:20 3:40 3:47 4:03 4:10 4:16 4:27 4:34 4:44 4:48 5:00 5:35 pm Lv SACRAMENTO Ar Brighton ...30.... ....55.... ....32.... 7 :25 p m 6:50 11 '45 . . 1784 .... Florin 6*25 12:20 pm 12-40 ..1791.... 1794 . Elk Grove 53 5:45 'S'20 . .M'Conneirs 49 1:30 ..1802 . . . . 1807 . . Gait ....49.... 4:30 2:00 Acampo ... 51.... 3:57 2-20 1810.. . Lodi ....55.. .. 3*38 2 "55 ..1817.. . 1823 Castle ...27.... 2:55 3 -25 Stockton ... 23 2*15 4:00 .1832.... Lathrop ... 25.... ....36.... .... 30 1:15* 4:25 4:48 ..1835.... . 1840 San Joaquin Bridge Banta's ... 12:45 12:10 pm 11:31 5:15 ..1845.,.. Ellis .... 76 ... . 5:45 ..1850 Medway ...357.... ...740.... ...485.... ...351.... ...170.... .... 86 ... . 10:45 6:50 ..1858.... Altamont 10:00 7:50 ..1867.... Liivermore 8:35 8-40 1873 Pleasanton 7-'S5 9:15 ..1878.... Sunol 7:25 9:45 ..1884 .. 1887... Niles 6:15 10:12 Decota ... 71 ... . ....48.... 5:58 10:48 ..1893.... Haward's 5:25 11:03 ..1896 ... ..1899.... Lorenzo ... 32.... 5:10 11:18 San Leandre ....48.... ....20.... 4:52 11:42 ..1903. .. ..1905.... Melrose 4:26 11:55 East Oakland ...12.... ....13.... 4:12 12:06 a m ..1907,... Oakland 4:00 12:15 ..1909.... ..1911... ..1914 ... West Oakland ....12.... 3:50 12:35 a m Oakland Wharf Ar....SAN FRANCISCO... Lv ....10.... 3:30 am * Meals. Note elevations. force, including the monitors, on this side, all rendezvous here. On Mare Island, just across the bay, are the Government works, dry docks, arsenals, etc. The finest section dock on the coast is located on the island, just in front of the town. Ferry- boats connect with the main land and city. About 500 men are constantly employed at the Government works, though at times the number is much greater. The population of Vallejo is 7,000. It has two newspapers, the Times and the Chronicle, daily and weekly. The Bernard and the Howard are the two principal hotels. It has some fine buildings — churches of different denominations, pub- lic and private schools. The Orphan Asylum, a fine structure, stands on an ele- vation to the east of the town, and can be seen for a great distance. There are some very large warehouses here, and a great many vessels are loaded here with grain for Liverpool and other foreign ports. It is also the southern terminus of the Cali- fornia Pacific railroad, which connects here with the steamers for San Francisco, 26 miles distant. But we must return once more to Sacra- mento, and this time take our old seat in the cars of the Trans-Continental railroad, bound for "Frisco" or the " Bay," as the city of San Francisco is called by the older " Pilgrims," so good-by, Sacramento. The Overland Koute— from Sac- ramento is along the eastern bank of the Sacramento River, when leaving the city, and on through well-cultivated gardens, orchards and vineyards, 5.7 miles to Brighton — Here we learn that the cars of the Sacramento Valley railroad, managed by the Central Pacific Company, run down on the same track as the ' Central," 204 ckofutt's new oveeland tourist to this station, where they branch off. Let us step into them, and see where they go. Patterson's is five miles; Salsbury's six miles ; Alder Creek, three miles, and three miles more brings us to FoLSOM — twenty-five miles east from Sacramento, in Sacramento county, on the south bank of the American River popu- lation about 2,000 The Telegra'ph is pub- lished here, weekly Vine culture is an important industry. Some of the finest vineyards in the State are near here, in- cluding the Natoma, which is celebrated for its fine quality of raisins and wine. To the north and east of the town, placer mining is the principal business; to the south and west, farming and grazing. There are extensive granite quarries in the vicinity. From the bed of the river, near this point, large quantities of cobble- stones have been obtained, taken to Sacra- mento, and used in strengthening the levees around the City. Most of the cobble pave- ment in San Francisco was obtained from the same source. Folsom is ornamented with fruit and shade trees, and has many fine public and private buildings, with magnificent scenery. Regular stages leave for Coloma, daily, via. Mormon Island, Salmon Falls and Greenwood Yalley, 24 miles distant. Passing on seven miles to White Rocks, eight to Latrobe, and eleven to Shingle Springs, brings us to the end of the rail- road, 49 miles from Sacramento. Placerville. — is twelve miles from Shingle Springs, with which it is connect- ed with daily stages. It is the county seat of El Dorado county, 60 miles east of Sacramento, at oji altitude of 1,880 feet above tide — present poj^ulation, about 2,000. Who has not heard of Placerville, El Dorado county ? It was in this county, at Coloma, eight miles northeast of the city, where the First gold discovery — was made Jan- uary, 19th, 1848— by J. W. Marshall, in the mill race of General Sutter. The an- nouncement of this discovery caused the wildest gold fever excitement ever experi- enced not only in America, but in every part of the civilized world. The news ol" these rich discoveries sped with the wings of the wind, and thousands, yes, tens of thousands, in the Atlantic States left homes, friends, and all they held dear, to make their fortunes in this, the new El Dorado. With many the excitement be- came intense, ships, steamers, barks, brigs, and all manner of sailing vessels were char- tered or purchased for a trip "around the Horn;" and no sacrifice was thought to be too much to make to procure the necessary outfit for the expedition. Again there were thousands who, choosing the land, boldly struck out toward the setting sun to cross the then almost unknown trackless deserts, and pathless mountains. Horses, mules and cattle were pressed into service, as well as all kinds of conveyances, while many started with hand-carts, propelling them themselves, upon which they packed their tools and provisions for the trip. Again, others started on foot, with only what they could pack on their backs, ''''trusting to luck.'''' Very few, if any, had a thought of the privations to be endured, or the obsta- cles to be overcome, so anxious were they to arrive at the Land of Gold. Those who came by water, passed in at the Golden Gate, and up the Sacramento, while those by land came pouring over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, by natural passes, down, d.own into this beautiful val- ley, where a city of many thousands sud- denly sprang into existence. From a "lit- tle unpleasantness" the place was first known as "Hangtown," but in 1852 it was changed to Placerville, which indicated at that time, the nature of the mining done in the vicinity. Of the many thousands who started across the plains and moun- tains, hundreds died by the wayside, and were buried by their companions, while the greater number were "lost" by the hand of t\iQ friendly Indian or the hostile Mormon. It has been estimated, and we think cor- rectly, could the bones of these emigrants be collected, and those of their animals, to- gether with their wagons and carts, in one continuous line, between the Missouri river and the Pacific coast, since the rush commenced in 18*8, they would be more numerous and closer together than the tele- graph poles on the line of the Pacific rail- road across the Continent. The early mining done about Placerville was done by hand, the pan, rocker, and long Tom ; these have long since given place to the quartz mills — there are 32 in the county — and the hydraulic process, by which nearly all the mining is now done. Vine culture and fruit culture are now the most important occupations of the peo- ple of the county. Fresh and dried fruits AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 205 are shipped "by tlie hundreds of tons, while the annual crop of wine and brandy pro- duced is over 800,000 gallons. Placerville contains a goodly number of schools, and churches of almost every de- nomination, including a "Joss House." The d i tier ent secret orders are well repre- sented, and two newspapers, the Democrat and the Bepuhlican., mak^ their appearance every week. Placerville is situated in what is known as the FOOT-HILLS as the chain of broken land is called, Avliich lies between the Sierra Mountains and the plains, extend- ing from Fresno county on the south, through Tuolumne, Calaveras, Amador, El Dorado, Placer, Nevada, Yuba, Butte to Tehama, on the north, comprising nearly one-fourth of the arable land of the State. The soil is altogether different from that of the valleys, beinggenerally of ared, gravelly clay and sandy loam. In the little valleys which are found among these hills, the soil is generally a black loam — the product of the mountain washings. Experiments, however, have decided the fact that these foot-hills are the natural vineyards of Cali- fornia. In El Dorado and Placer coun- ties, on these sandy foot-hills are now the finest vineyards in the State, from which are manufactured fine wines and raisins. Here among these hills are as cozy homes as one could wish to have, where grain, vegetables and all kinds of fruit are raised in abundance, w^hile thousands of acres are lying vacant awaiting the emigrant. The mulbery tree and the silkworm are cultivated to some extent in the foot-hills, and this branch of industry is lately re- ceiving considerable attention. Again we return to the Trans-Cjnti- NENTAL, which wc left at Brighton. I^lorin — is four miles from Brighton*. The many new buildings the well-cultiva- ted fields, the raisin grape vineyards, all denote a spirit of progress in the settlers, that would seem to say, ''We hatie come here to live.'" The traveler has probably noticed several windmills along the road, before arriving at this station. The California Wind- mill is a great institution in its way. It seems to have been brought to a greater state of perfection on this coast than any- where else. From this place we will find their numbers to increase until we get to the "Windmill City," as Stockton is often called, where they can be seen in great numbers, in every direction. Many times the water is pumped into reservoirs built on the tops of the houses, resembling a cupola, from which pipes take the water to the different rooms throughout the house and grounds ; the waste water is conducted in- to the gardens and fields for irrigating purposes. These mills are numerous in San Francisco and throughout the State. From Florin it is 6.2 miles to Glk Grove— Here, too, many recent improvements are noticeable. In a clear day the snow-capped Sierras, on the left can be plainly seen, and away to the south 60 miles distant. Mount Diablo rising clear and grand from out the plains, an unerring pilot to those who wandered across these once trackless plains that now are teeming with life and industry. It is situated in the Contra Costa range of mountains, and is the meridian point in the land surveys of the State. Elevation 3,876 feet. The view from the summit includes the country and towns around San Francisco, San Pablo and Suisun bays, and the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers. It is reached by steamboats from either San Francisco, Stockton or Sacramento. The beautiful valley through which the road passes is now spreading out before us, and we begin to realize that nature has done much for this "sunset land." McConnell's— is a small station 3.5 miles from Elk Grove. Near are large fields, where cattle and sheep are fed and fattened for market. Before reaching the next station, we cross Cosumnes River, which rises in the mountains to the northeast. The bottom lands are very wide, and covered with both white and live oaks, and near the stream with willows. The water gets very high in the spring-time, and very low in the summer. Oalt — a station with a few dozen build- ings, large warehouses, big cattle pens, and shutes for loading cattle and sheep — is 7.7 miles from McConnell's. At this station we find the Amadore Branch Railroad, Let us " change cars," and note the re- sult. Leaving the station, our course is north a short distance, and then northeast towards the mountains, over a section of country devoted pretty generally to stock- raising — sheep principally. Cicero— is the first station, 8.8 miles 206 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST distant, a small place of about 150 inhabi- tants. Passing on 11.7 miles further, we are at Carbondale — Here are extensive coal mines, operated by the lone Coal Co., who load on an average fifteen cars per day — 150 tons. At Michigan Bar, eight miles north, large quantities of the best pottery are manufactured, which finds its market over this road. From Carbondale it is 6.7 miles to loNE — the end of the road, 27.2 miles from Gait. This place is in Araadore county, in a section devoted to mining and agriculture. The coal mines located here have yielded about 200 tons per day during the year 1877. A new vein of coal, struck towards the last of the year 1877, opens up an al- most unlimited deposit. Placer mining is carried on to some extent on Sutter Creek. The News, a weekly paper, is published at lone, which is also a point from which fourteen mining towns, large and small, draw their supplies. Some of these are reached by stage as follows: Volcano, population, 500; West Point, 300; Jack- son, San Andreas, Mokelumna Hill, Sut- ter, Amador, Drytown, Plymouth, and Fiddletown. These places are from ten to fifteen miles distant. From lone it is fifteen miles southeast to Mokelumna Hill, (pronounced Mokel-m-ne,) county seat of Calaveras county. This is one of the early mining towns of the State. Placer mines were worked as early as 1848, and are worked to some extent at the present time ; but quartz mining and agriculture are the principal occupation of the people. It is a pretty little town ; the streets are orna- mented with shade trees on each side, and has some beautiful gardens and private residences, with good school sand churches, several good hotels, and one weekly news- paper — the Chronicle — the oldest paper in the State. Population, 1,200. We will now return to Gait, and start once more south. Acampo — is a small station where trains seldom stop, 5.4 miles from Gait, and 2.9 miles from LiOdi — The country along here has been settled up very much in the last four years; the fields are pretty generally fenced and well cultivated, and some fine vineyards of the raisin grape can be seen. Many new buildings attest the thrift of the people. Stages leave this station daily — except Sunday — for Mokelumne Hill, 35 miles east. Castle — is six miles from Lodi. Our train rolls along through fine broad bottom lands, dotted here and there with white- oak trees, which, at a distance, appear like an old New England apple-tree. Six miles further, just before reaching the next station — on the right, that large building is the State Insane Asylum. The grounds devoted to the use of the asylum occupy 100 acres. The first build- ing in view is the male department ; the second, the female. We are now in the suburbs of Stockton — the county seat of San Joaquin county. Population, 13,000. Ele- vation, 23 feet. The city was named in honor of the old naval commodore of that name, who engaged in the conquest of California. It is situated on a small bay, of the San Joaquin River, at the head of navigation ; navigable for crafts of 200 tons; yet steamboats of light draft ascend the river (San Joaquin) 250 miles farther. Stockton is situated in the midst of level plains, celebrated for their great yield of grain. It is the center of an immense grain trade. In early times, the only trade depended upon for the support of the city was derived directly from the work- ing of the mines to the eastward. Some of this trade is still retained; but, com- pared with the tremendous grain trade which has sprung into existence within the last six years, it sinks to a unit. The city has many beautiful public and private buildings, thirteen churches, fourteen pub- lic and many private schools; is lighted with gas, and well supplied with water, the latter from an artesian well 1,002 feet deep, which discharges 360,000 gallons per day — the water rising ten feet above the city grade. There are several good hotels ; the Yo-Semite and Grand are the prin- cipal ones. The Independent and the Herald are daily papers, published here. The city is embowered in trees and shrub- bery : most of the private residences and gardens of the citizens are certainly very tastefully ornamented with all kinds of vines, shrubbery, and flowers. . The soil around Stockton is " adobe," a vegetable mold, black and very slippery, and soft during the rainy season. This extends southward to the Contra Costas, and west about five miles, where the sand commences and extends to the river. Stockton, for several years after the com- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE LiVERMORE PASS TUNNEL. — See page 209. pletion of the Overland road, was the starting point — in stages — for Yo Semite Valley and all the big trees. But, by the building of the Visalia Division of the "Central," most, if not all, the travel for Yo Semite, Mariposa and the Tuolumna big tree gro^^es, has taken that route, the distance by stage being much shorter. (See map of route, page 201.) iVgain, by the building of the Stockton & Visalia, and Stockton & Copperopolis railroads, all the travel for the Calaveras - Big Tree Grote, go by that route. (See map.) For a description of the route to Yo Semite Valley and the Mariposa and Tuolumna big trees, (see under "Visalia Division," page 234). To Calaveras Big Trees — we will simply note the route, and refer to Annex No. 51, " Book of Reference." Taking the S. & v., and S. & C. railroad at the depot of the "Central," the route is east, six miles to Charleston, three more to Walthall two more to Holden and four more to Peters, fifteen miles from Stockton. From Peters, a line branches off to the southeast. Taking that branch, it is five miles to Farmington, three more to Grrigo, five to Clyde, four to Burnett's and two more to Oak Dale, the end of the road, 3.44 miles from Stockton. Returning to Peters, it is seven miles to Waverly and eight more to Milton, the end of the road, 30 miles, from Stockton. Some travel leaves Milton for Yo Semite Valley, Chinese Camp, Big Oak Flat and the Tuo- lumne Big Trees ; distance from Milton, 87 miles. Stages leave Milton regularly for Mur- phys, 30 miles ; Sonora, 36 miles ; Chinese Camp, 28 miles and all mining towns of note to the north and east. From Milton it is 45 miles to the Calaveras Big Tree Grove, via Murphys. Big Trees — There nas oeen, up to the present time, ten "Big Tree Groves " dis- covered on the western slope of the Sierra 208 crofutt's new overland tourist Nevada Mountains, numbering from 92 to 1,000 trees each, and ranging in lieight from 250 to 321 feet, with a circumference, at the ground, of from 60 to 95 feet each. The largest ever discovered is called the "Father of the Forest" — now prostrate — and measures 435 feet in length and 110 feel in circumference. It is in the Calaveras grove. The elevation of this grove above tide is 4,735 feet. The trees number 92, ranging from 150 to 321 feet in height. The most notable are the " Father of the Forest," as above stated ; the "Mother of the Forest," 321 feet high, 90 feet in circum- ference; " Hercules," 320 feet high, 95 feet in circumference-; " Hermit," 318 feet high, 60 feet in circumference ; " Pride of the Forest," 276 feet high, 60 feet in circum- ference; "Three Graces," 295 feet high, 92 feet in circumference; " Husband &"Wife," 252 feet high, 60 feet in circumference; " Burnt Tree "—prostrate— 330 feet long, 97 feet in circumference; " The Old Maid," "Old Bachelor," " Siamese Twins," "Mother & Sons," the " Two Guardsmen," and many- others range from 261 to 300 feet in height and from 59 to 92 feet in circumference. Of over 350 big trees in the Mariposa grove, 125 are from 250 to 350 feet in height and 40 feet in circumference. The "Ram- bler" is 250 feet high, and 102 feet in cir- cumference, at the ground. Hotel accommodations at the different groves, and in Yo Semite Valley will be found ample. Returning to Stockton, we once more take the Overland train for San Francisco. This is a great country for rapid changes. Where to-day there are only stages, to-morrow there may be palace cars ; so that it is almost impossible for us to keep up with the times. When our guide Avas first published, in 1869, not one foot of all the roads we have come over, from the Missouri to this place, or will go over, or that are, was built or hardly thought of. How fast we live! At the same proportional increase for the next nine years, where will we be ? liatlirop— is 8.9 miles south of Stock- ton, at ttie junction of the "Visalia Di- vision " of the Central Pacific railroads Here the R. R. Co. have erected a fine, large hotel, before which trains stop 30 minutes, to afford passengers an opportunity to take a meal, for which the moderate charge of 50 cents is made. (For a description of the country to the south, including Yo Semite Valley and the big trees of Mariposa and Tuolumna groves, See page 234.) Here passengers for Fort Yuma, Los Angelos and intermediate country can "change cars," if they choose, without going to San Francisco. From Lathrop, it is 3.6 miles to the bridge over the San Joaquin River. Here the cars come to a full stop before crossing, to be sure to guard against accidents— as the bridge has a " draw " for the accom- modation of the river boats. This company has a rule for all their emploj^es, and a " Golden" one it is, that "/;«. case of un- certainty, alicays take the safe side.''' This rule is well observed; few " accidents " take place on the roads operated by this com- pany, for the reason that the road is con- structed of good materials, and in the most substantial manner j with all its equipments of the first class. The officers are thor- oughly practical men, who never discharge an employe, on any consideration, who has proved to be a competent man for his posi- tion, simply to make room for a favorite, or a worthless " cousin.'''' Crossing the bridge, the long range of the (/Ontra Costa Mountains looms up in the distance, directly ahead, and extends a long distance to the right and left, on either hand, as though to effectually stop our progress. We cannot see any place to get through or over them, yet we are sure San Francisco is on the other side. Santas — is 4.4 miles from the bridge, and is reached after passing over a broad bottom, the soil of which is a rich, deep sandy loam and very productive. This station consists of a postofflce, a half-dozen stores, several large freight warehouses, with a surrounding country, well settled, most of which is under cultivation. Stages leave this station on arrival of trains for Graysonville, 20 miles ; Mahoney, 35 miles ; Crow's Landing, 35 miles; and Hill's Ferry, 41 miles. Alter leaving the station, we have wit- nessed, on several occasions, by looking away to the right, thatcurious phenomenon, the mirage, which is often seen on the desert. (See description, page 169.) About three miles west is to be the new station of Tracy— at the junction of the San Pablo & Tulare railroad, now building from Martinez, opposite Benecia, to this place, where a connection will be made with the Western Division. This new road is virtually a division of the "Central," and will be 72 miles to San Francisco, via Martinez and Berkley, twelve miles longer than the route we are now traveling, via AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 209 Livermore Pass. On the new road there are no grades; on the old, there is 740 feet altitude to overcome, which, in the trans- portation of freight, is an important item. £llis — is 5.2 miles from Bantas, west, situated in the midst of a beautiful valley, which is rapidly settling up. Th6 coal mines of Corral Hollow are fourteen miles distant from this station to the southeast, connected a portion of the way by rail- track. The "Central " Co. use large quan- tities of this coal — besides transporting it to San Francisco, and other cities and towns. Since leaving the last station we have gained altitude, this station being 76 feet elevation. Another engine will be attached here, as the grade increases rap- idly after leaving this station until we get to the summit of the mountain. Midivay — formerly called "Zink House," is 5.7 miles from Ellis; elevation, 357 feet. Soon after leaving the station, we enter the bluffs, pass through deep cuts and over high fills, our two iron horses puffing and blowing furiously as they labor up the heavy grade. These bluffs are heavy sand, and almost destitute of vegetation. To our right can be seen the old wagon road, but now almost de- serted. Still upward and onward, the long train thundering around this jutting point, and over that high embankment, twisting and turning, first to the right, and then to the left, like some huge serpent, while the blufl^s seem to increase in height, and the canyon is narrower and darker at every turn, until, at last, we are plunged into total darkness^ and the tunnel of Liver- more Pass ; elevation, 740 feet. This tun- nel is the only one on the road from Sacra- mento to San Francisco; is 1,116 feet long, supported by heavy timbers. (See illus- tration, page 307.) Passing through the tunnel, our descent is rapid, through a narrow canyon, down into one of the loveliest little valleys in the whole country, and 7.9 miles from Midway our train stops at Altaiuont — This is a small station at the foot of the mountain. Speeding to the westward 8.1 miles, brings us to Lecota — is three miles from Niles, through beautiful fields on our left and high blufts on the right. This is a new town — one preparing for the future, and promises at this time to be one of unusual importance as a suburban residence for the merchant princes of San Francisco. The lots are very large, with wide aven- ues, beside which are planted long rows of trees — mostlv eucalyptus — to the numbi r of from 40,000 to 50,000. The water comes from living springs, which flow abundantly a few miles to the east in the mountains. To the left the valley stretches away ten miles to San Francisco Bay, dotted here and there with comfortable farm-houses, and on all sides extensive and well-culti- vated fields. Passing along, many young orchards and groves of trees will be noticeable, also some of the beautiful country residences of San Francisco's merchants. Hayward's {*^tatioii— is 6.3 miles from Decota. The town is one mile to the east, nestling in beside the mountains, and a lovely hamlet it is, completely embow- ered in ornamental trees, among which are the Japanese persimmon. Near the town are two groves of eucalyptus trees, of about 150 acres, aggregating 250,000 trees, 200,000 of which are raising for the Railroad Com- pany. The town has a population of about 1,000, many of whom do busmess in San Francisco, going and returning daily, 22 miles. Along this valley for many miles, the Railroad Company have planted, beside their road, double rows of the "gum-tree," as the eucalyptus is called here, and we understand, should the experiment prove satisfactory they will continue the planting until their whole 2,000 miles of road and branches from Ogden, in Utah, to Yuma, in Arizona, will all be lined with these pe- culiar trees. From Hayward's it is 2.7 miles to liOreiizo — This is a small village sur- rounded by wealth of all kinds. Away to the right, beside the mountain, that large building is the County Poor House. Some of the pioneers of this country, and others t;.at were once rich, are in that building. This is a country where the " ups and AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 211 downs " are very rapid; one is rich to-day, with gold to throw away, then poor to- morrow, without a farthing in the world. Alameda county is noted for its peculiarly rich and fertile soil, which seems espe- cially adapted to the cultivation of all kinds of fruit and vegetables, the size and weight of which are truly marvelous. This val- ley is the currants' home, which are raised in immense quantities. Here is located a large drying establishment, by the Alden process. One man, a Mr. Meek, has a 2,200 acre farm here, on 300 of which, are 250,000 currant bushes, 1,200 almond trees, 4,200 cherry trees, 8,000 prune and plum, 1,500 pear, 2,500 apple, 1,500 peach, and 2,000 apricot trees, besides six acres in blackberries, and many orange trees. Another poor fellow has 120 acres, on which are 2,000 plum trees, 2,000 cherry, 1,500 pear, 1,000 apple, 400 peach and apricot trees, and 25 acres in currants and berries. Still another individual has 100,000 cur- rant bushes, and the fourth, raised in 1877, 200 tons of pumpkins, 300 tons of beets, and 20 tons of carrots. Currants grow as large as filberts ; cherries, three inches in circumferance ; plums, pears, apples, peaches, and apricots, extraordinarily large, while carrots grow three feet long, and weigh 35 pounds ; cabbages, 75 pounds ; onions, five pounds; water-melons, 85 pounds; pumpkins — well, no scales can weigh them — pears, ^^ pounds; straw- berries, two ounces ; and beets — not fioode- lums — 200 pounds. These beets beat in weight those raised in any other country — so far as heard from — and, one of our aged and revered philosophers once said " they beat the devil." — Possibly, we are not sufficiently educated to make any positive statement of the kind that could be taken as reliable All kinds of grain yields are enormous. From Lorenzo, it is 2.7 miles to l^an Leandro — This place contains a population of about 2,000. It was once the county seat of Alameda county, but that honor was taken away to enrich Oakland, yet the citizens seem to stand the loss, and do not stop in their efforts to improve and beautify the town, or in raising the finest and largest vegetables in the State. The next station is 4.2 miles distant, called Melrose — This is a small station at the junction of the Alameda railroad. Close beside the mountain, on the right, is lo- cated the Mills Seminary, for young ladies. The building cost about $100,000. The grounds occupy 65 acres, and are most beautiful, in trees, lawns, etc. Alameda — Alameda county, is four miles to the left of this station. Popula- tion 1,600. It is situated on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay, four miles from Alameda Point, and ten miles from San Francisco, with which it is connected by ferry boats, by the San Francisco & Ala- meda railroad, and with the " Central " at Melrose. It has good schools and churches and elegant private residences. The town abounds in beautiful groves of oaks. The Encinal and other parks are very beautiful. It is a favorite resort for bathers and for picnic parties from San Francisco. The Encinal and Argus, both weekly papers, are published here. Passing on to the westward, the traveler will note a race track on the left, where some of the best blooded stock in the State can often be seen exercising. Near by is a large smelting furnace, for manipulating gold, silver, and other ores. We are now passing through what — only a few years since — was an open coun- try, now the suburbs of a big city, that is known as Cast Oakland— once called Brook- lyn, 2.3 miles from Melrose. An incor- porated part of Oakland 2.3 miles from Melrose, is separated from the old city by an arm of San Antonio Creek, but con- nected by bridges. East Oakland and Oakland are situated on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay, on ground which slopes gradually back from the bay for several miles to the foot-hills, or base of the Contra Costa Mountains, in their rear. Upon this sloping ground are built many elegant "out of town " residences of the merchants of San Francisco, which com- mand a beautiful view of their city, the Bay, the Golden Gate, and the surrounding country. A short distance to the northeast, in a canyon of the mountains, are situated the " Piedmont White Sulphur Springs." These springs are stongly^ impregnated with sulphur, and it is claimed that they possess medicinal qualities. But why Cal- ifornians should be sick, or di'ink sulphur water, when they have such good wine, and so much of it, we are unable to understand. The only cotton mill on the Pacific coast is located at this place— the "Oakland Cotton Mills." 212 C^OFUTT S NEW OVEELAXD TOURIST Steam cars run regularly between the cit}' and San Francisco, every half-hour, fare 15 cents; by commutation tickets much less. These cars run through the center of the city of Oakland, and not on the track used by the Overland train, until the long pier is reached below Oakland Point. When the road was first built, all trains run through the heart of the city, but subsequently a road was built on piles over the shoal water on the edge of the bay, skirting the city front, reaching the old track on the pier, half a mile below Oak- land Point, and at this time, all Overland trains take that track. Leaving East Oakland our train runs along over the water, affording a very good view of the bay on the left, and on the right, Oakland, and mountain to the back of it. Two miles further and the train stops at the station for Oakland — the county seat of Ala-^ meda county, has a population of 40,000, and is the second city in size on the Pacific coast. Few cities in the world have ever increased, with as good, healthy, substantial growth, as has Oakland within the last Beven or eight years. According to the census of 1870, the population was 11,- 104, an increase in eight years of nearly thirty thousand. What Brooklyn, New York, is to New York City, so is Oakland to the cit}^ of San Francisco. The name of the city is sig- nificant of its surroundings, as it is situated in an extensive grove of evergreen oaks, with orchards, parTis, gardens and vine- yards on every side. Nestling amidst this forest of perpetual green, can be seen, peeping out here and there, the magnificent villa of the nabob, the substantial resi- dence of the wealthy merchant, and the neat and tasteful cottage of the " well-to- do " mechanic, who have been attracted here by its grand scenery, mild climate, and quiet surroundings — being free from dust, noise, or the bustle of a large city de- voted to business. Oakland is lighted with gas; has broad, well-paved streets ; is abundantly supplied with water; supports several horse rail- roads ; three daily newspapers — the Trih- une, Times, and the Democrat, and is pro- vided with just a score of churches. The Masons, Odd Fellows, and many of the other fellows have halls and hold regular meetings. Public and private schools are ample. The higher educational institutions com- prise the University of California, the State University School, the Female College of the Pacific, the Oakland Military School, the Oakland Female Seminary, and the Convent of "Our Lady of the Sacred Heart." The University of California is at Berkley, four miles distant. It is constructed throughout of brick and iron — they say, earthquake and fire-proof. Near the university, towards the bay, is located the State Asylum of the Deaf, Dumb and Blind. It is a massive stone building, three stories high, 300 feet above the bay, and commanding a very extensive view. Oakland, besides its attractions, as a place of residence, has become one of great impor- tance as a manufacturing city. In the city and suburbs are located great numbers of all kinds of manufactories, some very ex- tensive, giving employment to hundreds of people. We have it from the best authority, that there are |4,350,000 invested in tlie manufacturing business, the annual pro- duct of which amounts to an enormous sum. The Central Pacific Railroad Com- pany completed a road called the Berkley Branch, and opened it for business, January 9, 1878, which commences at the end of the pier at West Oakland, and runs north and eastward around mountains of the Contra Costa Range, and in full view of San Pablo Bay, to Martinez, 35 miles from San Fran- cisco. The principal staticms on this route are Berkley, 11.08 miles from San Fran- cisco; San Pablo, 17.55 miles; Martinez, 35.55 miles. When the line from Martinez is completed via Benecia to Fairfield, as referred to on page 202, it is quite possible the Overland trains will be changed to this new route, making a saving in distance of 56 miles. (See map, page 201.) The principal hotel at East Oakland is Tubbs' ; at Oakland, the Grand Central. At Oakland Point, from which the long pier is built out into the bay, are located the extensive workshops of the Central Pacific. Their yard, and grounds occupy 120 acres of laud. Leaving Oakland, our train speeds along through the edge of the city for about half a mile, then gradually curves to the south- ward running out to meet the main Oakland pier, which it reaches, 1.4 miles from Oak- land, 1.6 miles from the Oakland end of the pier, and 2.1 miles from the end of the pier to the westward. Down this long pier rolls our train, directly out into the bay, towards the setting sun, to the ferry-boat, which conveys passengers over the waters, 3.7 AND I'AC'IFIC COAST GUIDE. 213 miles to the city of Sau Francisco. (See large illustration of " Birds Eye view of San Francisco, and surrounding country.") Oakland Wharf— is on the end of this pier. Until the building of a pier at this place, the only harbor of Oakland was to the eastward, at the mouth of Sau Antonio Creek, the M^ater to the Avestward being quite shallow for a long distance from shore. The ferry-boats: leave and ar- rive to and from San Francisco, at this wharf every half-hour, and trains, many times composed of 18 or 20 passenger cars, lun in connection with the boats to Oak- land, Berkley, and other points. The Pier — is built of the best materials, and in the most substantial manner, with d )uble track and carriage-way extending the whole length. There are three slips. The one to the north is 600 feet long, and will accommodate the largest ships, the water being 263^ feet in depth at low tide, and 32 at high tide. On each side of the slip are erected large warehouses, one of them 600x52 feet, the other 500x52 feet with tracks running through, for the purpose of loading and discharging. The next slip south was built to accom- modate the "Thoroughfare." This steamer was designed expressly for taking freight cars and cattle across the bay. Her capacity is 16 loaded cars and pens for 16 car-loads of cattle — 288 head — making 32 car-loads in all. She once made a trip across the bay, loaded, running a distance of three and a half miles in 22 minutes. The boat is 260 feet on deck, 38 feet beam, with flat bottom. The engines are 200 horse power ; cylinders, 22x84, and were con- structed at the company's shops in Sacra- mento. The south slip is the passenger slip, where lands the regular ferry-boat between Oakland and San Francisco. On each side of this slip is a passenger-house — one 30x70 feet, the other 40x50 feet. In these buildings are located the division ofiicesof the Railroad Company. They afibrd ample accommodations for passengers, and the enormous travel, the advance guard of which has onXj just commenced to arrive. The first ship that loaded at this pier was the "Jennie Eastman," of Bath, Eng- hmd. She commenced loading August 4tli, 1870, for Liverpool, with wheat, brought — some from San Joaquin Valley, but the greater portion from the end of the California and Oregon railroad, 230 miles PALACE HOTEL, SAN FRANCISCO. Warren Leland, Leasee. 214 cboputt's new overland tourist north of San Francisco. It is hardly understood yet by the people of the world, that the China, Japan, Sand- wich Island, and Australian steamships, and ships both large and small, can land at this pier, load and unload from and into the cars of the Pacific railroad ; and those cars can be taken through, to and from the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean,without change ; that immense quantities of goods are now transported in that way, much of them in BOND, in one-tenth the time heretofore oc- cupied by steamships and sailing vessels. When these facts are fully understood, and the necessary arrangements made, the rush of overland freight traffic will commence, the extent of which, within the next twenty years, /(?wj, if any, can realize. From the landing place of the "Thorough- fare," in San Francisco, a rail track leads to the dock of the Pacific mail, and other ocean steamshipsi, and goods are now transferred in that way in bond, but the time is not far distant, when all foreign vessels, with goods for "across the conti- nent," will land at this pier. The Railroad Company have taken ample precautions against fire on this pier, by providing the two engines that are em- ployed doing the yard work, with force- pump attachments, steam from the loco- motive boilers, and supplied with reels of hose and suction-pipe so arranged that water can be used from their tanks or the bay. Behold ! — As we stand at the end of this pier— almost in the middle of San Francisco Bay — and think back only thirty years, we are lost in wonder and astonish- ment. Here are already two great cities within a few miles of where we stand ; the smallest has 40,000, while the largest teems with over 300,000 inhabitants — repre- sentatives from every land and clime on the face of the earth. In 1847 not 500 white settlers could be found in as many hundred miles, and not one ship a year visited this bay. Now there are seven large steamships in the China trade, six in the mail service via Panama, thirty-four more regularly engaged on the coast from Sitka, on the north; to South America, Honolulu, Australia, New Zealand, on the south; besides hundred of ships and sail- ing vessels of every description— all busy — all life. Here, too, at the end of this pier, is the extreme western end of the grand system of American railways which has sprung into existence within the same thirty years. How fast we live! The gentle breeze of to-day was the whirlwind of fifty years ago. Will we — can we — con- tinue at the same ratio ? But why specu- late ? It is our business to write what is taking place to-day ; so we will now step on board the ferry-boat and take a look around while crossing the bay. Goat Island, or " Terha Buena,'"' is about one mile distant from the end of the pier, close to the right. It is nearly round, iMQ feet altitude, containing 350 acres. It belongs to the Government. Beyond, look- ing over the broad expanse of water, the mountains of Marin county loom up in the distance, the highest point being Mount Tamalpais, 2,604 feet high. It is in the Coast Range of mountains, at the south point of which is Golden Gate, with Al- catrnz Island in the foreground. Directly in front is the city of San Francisco. The highest point to the right is Telegraph Hill — the highest, far beyond, a little to the left, is Lone Mountain. In the center, that high building, looming up above all others, is the Palace Hotel; to the left the Bay of San Francisco. But we are at the ferry ; here passengers will find "buses" for all prominent hotels, or street cars that pass them all; fare, five cents. ^aii Francisco — Ah ! here we are at sundown, at the extreme western city of the American Continent. Population, 300,000, and increasing rapidly. On landing at the ferry-slip in the city, the first thing required is a good hotel. Now, if there is any one thing that San Francisco is noted for more than another it is for its palatial hotels. The Palace, Bald- win, Lick, Occident, Cosmopolitan and Grand, are all first-class, both in fare and price — charges from three to five dollars per day. The Brooklyn, Russ, American Exchange, and International, are good hotels, at charges from $2 to $2.50 per day. Then there are a great many cheaper houses, like the "What Cheer," with rooms from 25 to 75 cents per night, with restau- rant meals to order. San Francisco is situated on the north end of the southern peninsula, which, with the northern one, separates the waters of San Francisco Bay from those of the Pacific Ocean. Between these peninsulas is the Golden Gate, a narrow strait, one mile wide, with a depth of 30 feet, con- necting the bay with the ocean. The city presents a broken appearance. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 215 owing to a portion being built on the hills, which attain quite a respectable altitude. From the tops of these hills a very fair view of the city can be obtained. A large portion of the city is built on land made by filling out into the bay. Where the large warehouses now stand, ships of the heaviest tonnage could ride in safety but a few years ago. To protect this made land, and also to prevent the anchor- age from being destroyed, a sea-wall has been built in front of the city. The climate is unsurpassed by that of any large sea-port town in the United States — uniformity and drj^ness constitu- ting its chief claim to superiority. There is but little rain during the year — only about half that of the Eastern States. The mean temperature is 54 deg., the variation being but 10 deg. during the year. San Francisco, in early days, sufi'ered fearfully from fires. The city was almost completely destroyed at six different limes during the years of 1849, '50, '51, and 1852. The destruction has been estimated in round numbers to exceed $26,000,000. The result of these fires has been that nearly all the buildings built since 1852 have been built of brick, stone, or iron — particularly in the business portion. The city has many magnificent private residences, and cosy little home cottages, ornamented with evergreens, creeping vines, and beautiful flowers. The yards or grounds are laid out very tastefully, with neat graveled walks, mounds, statues, ponds, and spark- ling fountains, where the " crystal waters flow." The first house was built in San Fran- cisco in 1835, The place M-as then called " Yuba Buena" — changed to San Francisco in 1847, before the discovery of gold. The city is well built and regularly laid out north of Market street, which divides the city into two sections. South of this the streets have an eastern declination as compared with those running north. The city is situated in latitude 87 deg. 48 sec. north ; longitude, 120 deg. 27 min. west. The principal wharves are on the east- ern side of the city, fronting this made land. North Point has some good wharves, but from the business portion the steep grade of the city is a great objection. The city is amply supplied with schools, both public and private. There is no in- stitution of the city wherein the people take more interest and pride ; none, of the credit and honor of which tbey are more jealous. Some of the finest buildings of the city were built for school purposes, the Denman and Lincoln school houses being the finest of the number. There are churches of all kinds, creeds, and beliefs, including several Chinese " Joss Houses." The Jewash synagogue is the finest among them, situated on Sutter street. The Newspaper, and Magazine, are the histories of the present, and the person who does not read them must be ignorant indeed. Californians are a reading people ; and he that comes nere to find fools brings his brain to a very poor market. There are in the city 65 newspapers and periodicals, thirteen of which are daily. The dailies are the Alta Calif or nia7i., the Bulletiriy Morning GaU., Morning Ghroni- de, Post, Examiner, Abend Post (German), Demokrat (German), Gourrierde 8an Fran- cisco (French), Mail, Stock Exchange, 8toek Report, and the Galifoi^nia News Notes, illustrated. The Golden Bra, and Spirit of the Times, are weekly literary and sporting papers. The News Letter, and the Argo- naut, are spicy weeklies. The Mining and Scientific Press, and the Pacific Rural Press, are first-class weekly journals in their specialties. Here, too, is published, the Journal of Gommerce, Gommercial Her- ald, and the Pacific Life, weeklies. The Goast Review is the great insurance author- ity of the Pacific coast — monthly. Here too, is Wentworth's Resources of G alifornia, an invaluable journal. If among all these publications you can find nothing to suit you — nothing new — why, then, sur- prise the Bible, by reading it, and you may profit by its teachings. The Markets of San Francisco are one of the features of the city ; those who never saw the fruit and vegetables of California should visit the markets. No other country can produce fruit in such pro- fusion and perfection. The grapes, peaches, pears, etc., on exhibition in the city mar- kets, represent the best productions of all parts of the State. "Frisco" Brevities— The new City Hall is on Market street. California street is the Wall street of the city. The Branch Mint of the United States is located in the new building, northwest corner Mission and 5th streets. The Post Office and Custom House are on Washington street. Merchants' Exchanoe Building is on California street. The Old Stock Ex- change is on Pine street; the New Stock 216 CROFUTT S NEAV OYERLAXD TOURIST Exchange is in Leidsdorft' street. Horse cars run to all important points in the city; fare, five cents. Mission Bay is two miles south of the City Hall. Market street is the Broadway of San Francisco, though Kearney street disputes the honor. The Palace Hotel is corner Market and New Montgomery streets ; (see description, "Annex" No. 49,) the Baldwin Hotel, corner Powel and Market streets. The Cali- fornia Theatre is on Bush street, also the Bush street Theatre. The Baldwin (Thea- tre) is on the corner of Market and Powell streets. There are three Chinese Theatres, where many of the " tricks that are vain," are performed nightly, which few can under- stand, yet they are worth one visit. Water for the city's use is obtained from Pillarcitos Creek, 20 miles south of the city, in San Mateo county; Lake Honda, five miles south, being used as a reservoir. Yet there are many wells, the water being ele- vated by wind-mills. The Libraries are numerous. The Mercantile, on Bush street ; the Odd Fel- lows, on Montgomery street; the Me- chanics' Institute, on Post street; the What Cheer, at the " What Cheer House," and the Young Men's Christian Association, are the principal ones, open free to tourists upon application. Secret Orders are numerous in San Francisco — too numerous to note here. The Baldwin Hotel, under the manage- ment of Rice, is a perfect gem of a house and the beau-ideal of a " Happy Hunting Ground." The magnificent views of Cape Horn, on the Columbia River, Mt. Shasta, the Loop, Orange Orchard, Woman of the Period, and many others in this book were, photographed by C. E. Watkins, 26 Mont- gomery street, who has an enormous col- lection of views. The views of Mirror Lake, Nevada Falls, and many of those on the line of tbe Central Pacific, which we have engraved and are to be found in this book, were from photographs taken by Thos. Houseworth & Co., No. 12 Mont- gomery street, wdio have views, seemingly, of every thing and every body on the coast. The Mechanics' Pavilion fronts on Geary street, and covers one block of ground. The Mechanics' Institute own the building, and hold their fairs there. The Dry Dock, at Hunter's Point, six miles southeast, is 405 feet long, 125 feet wide and 40 feet deep, cut in solid rock, at a cost of $1,200,000. Protrero Ship Yards are located at Protrero, and are reached by the city cars. All kinds of small craft for the coast service are built at these yards. China Town is situated on Sacramento, above Kearny ; Dupont, between Sacra- mento and Washington streets, and Jack- son street, between Dupont and Kearny. These streets are occupied exclusively by Celestial shopkeepers, "Heathen Chinese." The Barbary Coast, a noted resort for thieves, cut-throats and the vilest of the vile, is situated on Pacific street, between Kearny and Dupont streets. We give the precise locality, so that our readers may keep away. Give it a " wide herth^'''' as you value your life. Angel Island, three miles north of the city, is a mile and a half in length and three-quarters of a mile wide; altitude 771 feet. On this island are quarries of brown and blue stone, which are extensively used in the city for building purposes. Goat Island, or " Yerba Buena," two and a half miles east, nearly round, con- tains 350 acres ; altitude, 340 feet. Alcatraz Island, a mile and a quarter north, is strongly fortified. The summit is 140 feet above tide, surrounded by a belt of batteries, which command the entrance to the harbor — a "key to the position." These islands are all owned by the Government. Point Labose is six miles west. Fort Point is northwest from the City Hall, five miles at the south end of Golden Gate. It is the most heavily fortified on the coast — on the plan of Fort Sumter, in South Carolina. Telegraph Hill, to the north, is 394 feet high. Russian Hill is 360 feet high. Clay St. Hill is 376 feet high. The Twin Peaks, four miles southwest, rise 1,200 feet. The visitor can obtain from the summit of these peaks a fine view of the whole country for many miles around the Golden Gate, and the Great Pacific Ocean. Ferry-boats run regularly between San Francisco and Oakland, Alameda, San Quentin, Berkley. Sancelito. The general office of the " Central " and Southern Pacific railroad companies is cor. Townsend and Fourth streets, on the south side of the city; several street car lines run by them. The Seal Rocks are six miles west, reached by a beautiful road. Steamers leave regularly for Vallejo, 26 miles; Benicia, 30; Petaluma, 48; Santa 216 Excliai cars ru] fare, fi-s south ( the Br Kearnt The New M " Anni corner fornia Bush s tre) is • streets, where are per stand, Wat Pilhirc in Sar miles £ there a vated 1 Th( Merca lows, chanic Cheer, the Yc the pr upon nume] to not( The ment and tl Grour Horn, the L( Perio( photo gome; lectio. Lake, the lii have ' booli, Thos. gome of eve Ti Gear;5 groui theb^ Th miles wide at a c Pi SUMMIT SIERRA NEVADAS, DONNEl ^KE, SNOW SHEDS AND TUNNELS. (See Annex No. 42.^ (14.) AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 217 Cruz, 76; Monterey, 100; Stockton, 110; Sacramento, 125; San Luis Obispo, 209; Eureka, 233; Crescent City, 280; Santa Barbary, 2b0 ; San Pedro, 364 ; San Diego, 450; Portland, 642; Victoria, V. I., 753; Mazatlan, 1,480; Guaymas, 1,710; La Paz, 1,802, Acapulco, 1,808: Sitka, 1,951 ; Hono- lulu, 2,090; Panama, 3,2 iO; Yokohama, 4,764; Hiogo, 5,104; Auckland, 5,907; Shanghae, 5,964; Hong Kong, 6,384; Sid- ney, Australia, 7,183; Melbourne, 7,700 miles. The Plaza, Washington, Union, Co- lumbia, LoBOS, Hamilton, and Alamo Squares, and Yerba Buena, Beuna Vista, and Golden Gate Parks, are all small, ex- cept the last, which contains 1,100 acres, but very little improved. The Oakland and Alameda parks are largely patronized by San Franciscans, who reach them by ferry-boat. But what the city is deficient in parks, is made up by the Woodward Gardens, for an account of which see Annex No. 44. Ocean Steamships — for sailing days and other particulars, see Annex No. 27. For general items of interest, see Annex No. 23. Here we are, on the golden shores of California. We have come with the traveler from the fa i' East to the far West; from the Atlantic to the Pacific — from where the sun rises out of the waters to where it sets in the waters, covering an ex- tent of country hundreds of miles in width, and recording a telegram of the most im- portant places and objects of interest — brief necessarily, hut to the point — and we feel certain that a pardon would be granted by the reader, if we now bade this country farewell, and started on our return trip. But, how can we ? It is a glorious country, so let us make a few ^Excursions, say^ye, and then we ^'"^i start on our trip towards Sunrise, via c ^ Southern Route. lioiite 1 .—To THE Seal RocKS,six miles west; procure a carriage. Early in the morning is the best time to start, as the coast breeze commences about eleven o'clock, after which it will not be so pleasant. We will be fashionable — get up early — and drive out to the " Cliff House" for breakfast. Within the first two miles and a half, we pass a number of cemeteries ; some of them contain beautiful monuments and are very tastefully ornamented. The principal ones are the Lone Mountain, Laurel Hill and Odd Fellows. In the Lone Mountain cemetery, on our right, under that tall and most conspicuous monument, which can be seen for many miles away, rests the re- mains of the lamented Senator Broderick, who fell a victim of the " Code Duello," through jealousy and political strife. Near by are the monuments of Starr King, Baker, and many others, whose lives and services have done honor to the State. On the summit of Lone Mountain, to the left, stands a large cross, which is a noted land- mark, and can be seen from/ar out to sea. In a little valley, close to the road, we pass, on the right, surrounded by a high fence, one of the most noted Race Courses in the State. From the cily the road leads over a suc- cession of sand-hills; from the summit of some of these we catch ao occasional glimpst; of the ""Big Drink'''' in the distance, the view seeming to improve as we gain the summit of each, until the last one is reached, when there, almost at our feet, stretching away farther than the eye can penetrate, lies the great Pacific Ocean, in all its mysterious majesty. We will be sure to see numerous ships, small craft and steamers, the latter marked by a long black trail of smoke. They are a portion of the world's great merchant marine, which navigate these mighty waters, going and coming, night and day, laden with the treasure, and the productions and repre- sentatives of every nation, land and clime. Close on our right is the Golden Gate, with the bold dark bluffs of the northern peninsula beyond. The "Gate" is open, an invitation to all nations to enter — but beside them are the " Boys in Blue," with ample fortifications, surmounted by the "Bull Dogs" of "Uncle Sam," standing ready to close them at the first signal of danger. Our descent from the summit of the last hill seems rapid, as we are almost lost in admiration of the magnificence spread out before us, until we arrive at the Cliff House — The st^.-anger on the road, and at the Cliff House, would think it a gala day — something unusual, such grand " turn-outs," and so many. The fact is, this "Drive" is to the San Franciscan what the " Central Park " is to the New Yorker — the " style " of the former is not to be outdone by the latter. The drive out is always a cool one, and the first thing 218 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST usually done on arriving is to take a drink — water — and then^ order breakfast — and such nice little private breakfast rooms! Oh, these Californians know how to tickle your fancy. Hark ! " Tci-Hoi, Toi-Hoi, YoV' What the deuce is that ? lliose liearing us, smile. We do not ask, but we conclude it must be a big herd of healthy donkeys passing, when two gentlemen enter from the rear, and one of them says : "Colonel, {there is no lower grade in Galiforma) 1 will bet you 50 shares in the Ophir or Virginia Consolidated, that General Grant, that big seal on the top of the rock, will weigh 3,000 pounds." We did not stop to hear more, but rushed out the back door on to a long veranda running the whole length of the house, which is situated on a project- ing cliff, 200 feet above, and almost over- hanging the waters, when " Yoi-Hoi, Yoi- Hoi, Toi " — and there were our donkeys, 500 3^ards away, laying on, scrambling up, plunging otf, fighting, and sporting around three little rocky islands. The largest of these islands is called " Santo Domingo." It is quite steep; few can climb it. A sleek, dark-looking seal, which they call Ben. Butler, has at times attempted it; but away up on the very top — basking in the sun, with an occasional " Yoi-hoi^ hoyi''' — lies General Grant, the biggest whopper of them. all. We knew him at the first sight. He had something in his mouth, and looked wise. Often when the din of his fellow seals below become fearful, who are ever quarreling in their efforts to climb up, his "■ Yoi-hoi, Boyi'" can be heard above them all — which, in seal language, means, " Let us have peace.'' Sea fowls in large numbers are hovering on and around these rocks. They, too, are very chattering, but we have no time to learn their language, as here comes a steamer bound for China. (See illustration, page 219.) It steams in close to the islands, and we think we can discern some of our fellow travelers "across the continent" among the passengers. They are on a trip " around the workl," and are waving their compliments to the General on the top of the rock. Just around that projecting point of land to the northwest are Fahallones Islands, seven in number, thirty miles .distant, in the Pacific Ocean, totally barren of every- thing but seals, sea-lions, and water-fowls. These are very numerous. Many of the seals will weigh from 2,000 to 3,000 lbs., and are quite tame (see illustration, page 99), as they have never been disturbed by hunters ; the birds — and they are legion — which inhabit these islands, lay millions of eggs every year, which, until 1871, were gathered and sold in the San Francisco markets. The islands are all rocks; the highest peak is surmounted with a light-house of the first order, 340 feet above the water. Breakfast is called; being fashionable, we take another — water — and, while eating a hearty meal, learn that these seals are protected by the laws of the State against capture, and something of their habits; then pay our bill, and the ostler his de- tainer., take our seat, and whirl around over abroad winding road, which is blasted out of the rocky blufi" on our left to the sandy beach below. Kight here -we meet Old Pacific Ocean himself — face to face — near enough to ''shake.''' He is a good fellow when he is himself— pac^/lc — but he drinks a great deal, perhaps too much ; but certain it is he gets very noisy at times — very turbu- lent. In driving along the beach, we come to one of the evidences of his fearful wrath. Do you see that ship laying on her side ? One night, after a big carousal, when it was said Old Pacific had been drinking a great deal — more than usual — and was in a towering passion., he drove this ship up almost high and dry on the beach, where you see her. Not content with that, he chased the escaping occupants far into the sand hills, throwing spars, masts, and rigging after them. Thank you ! We don't want any of that kind of pacific in ours. We will now keep our eye on Old Pa- cific, and drive along down the beach, by several fine hotels, and then turn into the sand-hills to the left, passing over a high point, where some fine views can be had of the surrounding country, and around to the old Mission Dolores. Here is food for the curious. But we cannot afford to stop here long, as Boreas is getting waked up, and is sliding the sand over the bluffs after us — rather disagreeable. This Mis- sion was founded in i7T5, by Spanish mis- sionaries, who, for over 60 years, wielded a mighty influence among the native Cali- fornians (Indians). In its most prosperous days, the Mission possessed 76,000 head of stock cattle, 2,920 horses, 820 mules, 79,000 sheep, 2,000 hogs, 456 yoke of work- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 219 220 CEOFTJTT S NEAV OVERLAND TOURIST ing oxen, 180,000 bushels of wheat and barley, besides $75,000 worth of merchan- dize and hard cash. The greater portion of all this wealth was conliscated by the Mexican Govern- ment, so that when California became a portion of the United States little re- mained, except these old adobe walls and grounds, together with about 600 volumes of old Spanish books, manuscripts and records. Returning to the city, we pass many objects of interest well worthy of notice, and through a portion of the city rapidly building up, and in a substantial manner. JRoute 2. — At the wharf, beside Oak- land Ferry, we will find one of the large steamboats that run in connection with the Vallejo route; let us step on board, and note what can be seen. Leaving the wharf, our course is north, with the Oakland wharf, the route by which we come — far to the right, as also Goat Island. On our left is Alcatraz, with its heavy fortifications, beyond which is the Golden Gate ; a little farther to the northward, is the Coast Range, with Mt. Tamalipas as the high- est peak ; elevation, 2,604 feet. Looking back, we have a beautiful view of theciiy; a little further on, Oakland, West Oakland, and Berkley on the right, with the Contra Costa Mountains for a back-ground. Now we pass — on the left — Angel Island, San Quintin, and San Rafael, in the order written. Now comes the "Grandfather," a huge red rock on the left, above the "Old Man and Woman." Continuing on, we come to the " Two Brothers," on which is located San Pablo light-house; beyond these are the "Two Sisters," making seven rocky islands. Opposite the light-house, on the right, is Point Pedro, which' projects out from the mountains on the east, far to the westward, as though to bar our progress. Rounding this "point," we enter San Pablo Bay, which spreads out to the right and left for many miles. Away to the far right can be seen a portion of the town of North Berkley, and further north, San Pablo, through which runs the Berkley branch of the " Central " to Martinez, as before noted, under Oakland. Passing on, we come in front of the Straits of Carquinez, through which flows the Sacramento River — as noted on page 200. We have left a broad expanse of water on our left, over which steamers run to Petalumi — as noted in route No. 3. Entering through a narrow channel, with Mare Island close on our left, we land at the wharf at Vallejo, take the cars of the California Pacific, and roll along to the Napa Valley Junction, where we were before, while making a trip over the " Vallejo Route." (See page 202.) Napa Junction — by this route it is 33.55 miles from San Francisco, and 52.87 from Sacramento. Leaving the Junction we roll up the beautiful valley 3.74 miles to Thompson — a signal station, passed by our train, as also many groves of young trees on our right, and beauty on every side. From Thompson it is 4.12 miles to Napa City — Although this is Napa City, county seat of Napa county, on Napa River, and the Napa Valley railroad, the people by no means look sleepy, but as bright as though they had just come out of a nap, or from a "nip." This is a lively town, of about 5,000 inhabitants, at the head of tide-water navi- gation for vessels and steamers of light draught ; supporting one daily paper, the Reporter, and one weekly, the Record. It is in the midst of a country noted for its mild and genial climate, the great fertility of its soil, and its many well- cultivated vineyards — producing annually over 300,000 gallons of wine and brandy. It is completely hedged in by various spurs of the Coast Range. The valley is about 40 miles in length, by an average width of four miles. This county is much distinguished for its medicinal springs, the most noted of which are the Soda Springs, White Sulphur, and the Calistoga. Near all these springs huge hotels have been erected, which are crowded in sum- mer by residents of this State, as well as tourists from the East, who visit them for health and pleasure. At the head of this valley — in plain view — is located Mt. St. Helena, an extinct volcano, which rises 3,243 feet above tide. The whole section around-about bears evi- dences of the volcanic upheaval that once lit up this whole country. Near Napa City is located one of the two State Insane Asylums— we found the other near Stockton — completed at a cost of over $1,000,009, and capable of accommo- dating «00 persons. It is of brick, and stands on an eminence about a mile and a half from the city, to the east. Four first- class seminaries and colleges — for the edu- cation of girls and boys — besides many AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 221 public schools, are at Napa, so eckicational advantages are all right. Among the good things at Napa, are the Palace and Revere hotels, the first named, a very large house near the depot. The Soda Springs are situated about six miles to the eastward, on the side of the mountain. The water from these springs has become quite celebrated; a large amount of it being bottled annually, and shipped to all parts of the State. Stages leave Napa daily for Sonoma, 12 miles west, continuing to Santa Rosa, 12 miles further; also to Monticello, 25 miles; Knoxville, 50 miles northeast. Leaving Napa, we cross Napa Creek, and roll along through rows of locust trees, planted on each side of the road, and on the right are to be seen a few mam- moth cactus pads, close to the track. A run of 5.1 miles and we come to Oak Knoll — the country residence of Mr Woodward, of Woodward Gardens, San Francisco. The farm contains 1,000 acres, nearly all under cultivation. Of this farm 120 acres are devoted to fruit and nuts of many varieties. Crossing Dry Creek, we come to a black- berry ranche of twelve acres, as many people in this valley make a specialty of raising blackberries. Oaks, manzanitas, and pines, now appear in places. From Oak Knoll, it is 3.52 miles to YouTSViLLE — Here, on the left is a large wine cellar, built of brick ; near by are large vineyards; further, comes Mason's vineyard of 100 acres, mostly raisin grapes, which are prepared and packed here for market. A run of 8.39 miles and we are at Oakville — Opposite, on the side of the mountain, cau be seen a quicksilver mine, marked by a red formation. Rutherford — is the next station, 1.95 miles from the last. Fine residences line the foot of the mountain on each side, the whole length of the valley, many com- pletely embowered in shade and fruit trees of several varieties. Passing on", we find another large wine cellar on the right, and 1.94 miJesfrom Rutherford comes Bello — a signal station with vineyards and another big wine cellar. Passing along through this beautiful valley, with huge moss-covered oaks, vine- yards and fields on each side, 2.07 miles is St. Helena — This is a town of about 1,200 population, on the western side of the valley, in the midst of vine- yards; in fact, there are vineyards and orchards in every direction, some embrac- ing hundreds of acres. Near by is the great vineyard and orange orchard of King. The town has many neat residences, and one weekly ]mper, the Star. The White Sulphur Springs are situated about two miles west of the town, to which "busses" run regularly. The White Sul- phur Hotel is the place to stop. Leaving St. Helena, we come to a farm of 500 acres, 115 acres of which are in a vineyard. Here, on the left, is another large wine cellar, near the road. This val- ley, particularly this portion, is called " safe land," meaning thereby that it can always be depended upon for a crop, as the fall of rain is sufficient every year to raise a crop, and irrigation is unnecessary. Barro, a signal station, is 1.98 miles further, where the valley is about two miles in width, with vineyards extending away up on the side of the hills. From Barro it is 2.1 miles to Bale, another side-track of little interest to the, tourist, 1.53 miles from Walnut Grove, still another small signal station. Oaks are thick along these bot- toms, and present a beautiful appearance. Occasionally w^e will see the madrone and a few Monteray cypress, with some eu- calyptus trees, Napa Creek, which has been along the road on either one side or the other, the whole length of the valley, has dwindled down to nothing. Continuing on, up through beauty on every hand, 2.86 miles from the last station, we arrive at the end of the road at Calistoga — which is the most popular of all the summer resorts, near the bay. The springs are just east of the depot, the water of which is hot enough to boil an egg in two minutes, and arc said to possess great medicinal qualities, having already won a high local reputation. In the town, every accommodation in the way of hotels, etc., is aftbrded to the numerous visitors who annually gather here to drink and bathe in the invigorating water, enjoy the unsur- passed hunting and fishing in the vicinity, and above all, to breathe the pure air of the charming little valley, while viewing the beautiful mountain scenery. The population of the town is about 500 ; the principal hotels are the Magnolia and Cosmopolitan; the paper which is sup- posed to furnish " all the news " is a weekly, called the Calistogian. Calistoga is sit- •)99 CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST uated at the head of the valley, 68.15 miles from San Francisco, surrounded on three sides with the mountain spurs of the Coast Range, as well as by vineyards and orchards; wine cellars — well, they are thicker here than quartz mills at Virginia City. The Petrified Forest — is distant about five miles, and consists of about forty acres of ground, covered more or less with petrified trees, some very large, eleven feet in diameter at the stump. These trees are nearly all down, some nearly covered with earth and volcanic matter, while the ground sparkles 'with silica. They will well re- pay a visit from the curious. Stage lines are numerous from Calistoga ; first, to the northward, it is 17 miles to Middleton; 20 to Harbern Springs; 20 to Guenoc; 35 to Lower Lake, and 45 to Sulphur Banks, where that suspicious mineral can be shoveled up by the cart-load. To the northeast it is 71 miles to Pine Flat; 26 miles to Geysers; 26 miles to Glenbrook; 41 to Kelseyville; 48 to LakePoint, situated on the west shore of Clear Lake, a fine resort at all seasons, but particularly in summer. To the south- west it is five miles to the Petrified Forest, eight to Mark West Springs and 26 to Santa Rosa. The celebrated Foss, with his stage, leaves Calistoga daily, over a mountain road unsurpassed for grand scenery, en route to The Geysers— These springs, with their taste, smell and noise, are fearful, wonder- ful. We have been told that " California beats the devil." May be, but he cannot be far from this place. Here are over 200 mineral springs, the waters of which are hot, cold, sweet, sour, iron, soda, alum, sul- phur — well, you should be suited with the varieties of sulphur! There is white sul- phur and black sulphur, yellow sulphur and red sulphur, and how many more sulphurs, deponent saith not. But if there are any other kinds wanted, and they are not to be seen, call for them, they are there, together with all kinds of contending elements, roaring, thundering, hissing, bub- bling, spurting and steaming, with a smell that would di.sgust any Chinese dinner- party. We are unable to describe all these wonderful things, but will do the next best thing. (See large illustration No. 17 and description in Annp:x No. 45.) The Geyser Hotel, seen through the foliage in the picture, is the only house which provides accommodations at the springs. Steam baths and other kinds will here be found ample, and board $14 per week. In the region of the springs, are mines of quicksilver, and some silver mines that are being worked to advantage. Returning to San Francisco, we start on Route 3. Ssin Francisco and North Facilic Railroad. General Offices — San Francisco. p. Donahue President. A. A. Bean General Superintendent. P. E. Dougherty Oen. Pass, and Ticket Agt. Repairing to the wharf, a short distance north of the Oakland Ferry, we board the steamer Donahue, belonging to this road, and proceed up the bay, as in route No. 2, until Pedro Point is passed, w^hen the course is more to the westward, to the mouth of Petaluma Creek, a very crooked stream, with salt marshes on each side. About six miles from the mouth ot the creek, on the- right, we come to a double- front cottage, which, when we passed up here in January, 1878, stood high and dry, above the marsh. Several days after, on the downward trip, the water covered the whole bottom in one broad sheet, and was apparently on the first floor of the build- ing. When it is understood that the party who settled here did so to demonstrate that he could reclaim the land by an original system of dykes, the joke will be apparent, and to him an aqueous joke. From the mouth of the creek, it is about ten miles to Donahue — named for the President of the road. It is situated on the east bank of the creek, close in beside the blufis, or Sonoma Hills, 34 miles from San Francisco. It is simply a landing for the boat where passengers take the cars, which stand under a huge, long building on the end of the wharf. Leaving the wharf, the Sonoma Hotel is close on Uie right, almost on the water's edge. Passing along beside the rolling hills, which are cultivated to their summit, one mile brings us to Lakeville, not a very pretentious place, but from which a stage leaves daily for the eastward, over thehills, nine miles to Sonoma — This town is a quiet, old place, founded in 18:20, and contains about 600 inhabitants. Many of the old original adobe buildings are still standing in a AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 223 good state of preservation. Sonoma has the honor of being the place where the old "Bear Flag "was first raised. It is situated in the Sonoma Valley, one of the richest in the State, and is celebrated for its vineyards and the excellence of its wines. Sonoma is not without its railroad, if it is a single rail. The Sonoma Valley "Prismoidal" is no creature of the fancy, but is completed three miles, and is to be extended to Norfolk, seven miles from Sonoma, where it will connect with steam- boats from San Francisco, But to return to the railroad, which we left at Lakeville. Rolling hills are on our right, mostly cultivated to their summits, and a few scattering live-oaks ; on the left, Petaluma Creek, salt marshes, and in the distance a high ridge of the Coast Range. Seven miles from Lakeville is Petaluma — the largest town in Sonoma county, with a population of about 4,500. It contains some fine large business blocks, two good hotels — the American and the Washington. The Courier and the Jour- nal Argus are two weekly papers, pub- lished here. The town is on the west side of the road, situated on rolling hills, by the side of which runs Petaluma Creek, which is navigable for light-draft boats at high tide. Upon and around these rolling hills are some beautiful residences, ornamented with great numbers of trees, among which are the oak, eucalyptus, Monterey and Italian cypress, Norfolk Island pine, and others, presenting, in connection with the mountains and sur- rounding scenery, a view most charming and delightful. Stages leave Petaluma daily for Sonoma, thirteen miles east. We understand the Railroad Company have a track graded and nearly ready for the iron, that runs south and west from Petaluma, along the base of the mountain to San Rafael, where a crossing will be made to San Francisco. Leaving Petaluma, we cross Petaluma Creek and roll along three miles to Ely's, a flag station, amid rolling hills, at the head of Petaluma Valley. One mile further, we come to a beautiful grove of black oaks on a high hill to the right, and we ai e at Penn's Grove. Here we cross the divide and enter the Russian River Valley. Goodwin's is half a mile further, a small flag station two and a half miles from Page's, another one of the same im- portance. Here commences the Cotate Grant, which takes in the hills on each side, four leagues in extent. Two and a half miles from Page's, we are at Cotate Ranche, a flag station for the ranche near by. At many stations along are to be seen cattle pens and shutes, indicating that raising and fattening cattle for market is one of the industries of the people in this section. Here we find many drooping, moss-covered oaks. Three miles more and we are at the banner town of Santa Rosa— population, 4,000. This is the county seat of Sonoma county, situated in the midst of one of the richest valleys in the State. It is fifteen miles from Petaluma, fifteen miles from Healds- burgh, thirty-three miles from Cloverdale, and fifty-seven miles from San Francisco. No city on the Pacific coast has increased faster within the last five years than Santa Rosa, and that increase has been marked by substantial brick business blocks, large manufactories, and beautiful private resi- dences. The city has water-works, gas-house, railroads, and all the modern improve- ments. Of newspapers, there are one daily, the Democ/rat; and one weekly, the Times. The Grand, and the Occidental, are the two principal hotels. The streets of the city are broad, set out with eucalypti and other varieties of trees ; these, with the surrounding country, afford many very beautiful drives. Sta^s leave Santa Rosa daily for Mark- West Springs, ten miles east; Petrified Forest, fifteen miles (see description, page 222) ; and Calistoga, 20 miles ; to the west, Sebastopol is seven miles. Average fare to these places is ten cents per mile. The valley of Santa Rosa, in which the town is situated, Russian River Valley, and Peta- luma Vallej', really one, are 60 miles in length, with an average width of about six miles. Sonoma county is a very large one, ex- tending to the Pacific Ocean on the west. In the western portion are located immense forests of redwood timber, which we shall, note hereafter. Vineyards are numerous as well as orchards where immense quan- tities of oranges, lemons, plums, limes, apples, English walnuts, almonds, apricots, and other fruits and nuts are raised for market. There are nearly 7,000 acres in vineyard — 5.000,000 vines — which produce annually full 2,500,000 gallons of wine, and 35,000 gallons of brandy. Pomegranite trees do quite well, and never fail a crop. All the lands in this county are classed as 224 ofutt's new oyekland tourist '' safe lands " ; owing to their proximity to the ocean the rain-tall is abundant for all purposes. Darying, is an important industry, yield- ing, from official reports, 2,750,000 pounds of butter, 400,000 pounds of cheese, and milk— not enough figures; the amount of milk marketed is not recorded. In mines, Sonoma is well represented ; gold, copper, and quicksilver are the prin- cipal metals. In grain, the product figures up over 600,000 bushels of wheat; 30,000 bushels of barley ; 250,000 of oats ; 8,500 bushels of corn, and many other kinds of grain in proportion. As for mineral springs, why, Sonoma county is the home of all kinds of springs, chief of which are the Geysers, Skaggs, Mark West, and the White Sulphur. . Four miles from Santa Rosa comes Fulton — a small town at the junction of the Fulton and Gurneyville Branch. The stations on this branch, are: Meacham's, two miles; Laguna, four miles further; Forestville, another two miles; then two miles to Greenvalley ; three miles more to KoRBEL's, and another three to Gurneyville — in the midst of a forest of redwood. Along this branch road, and at Gurneyville, are located six sawmills, which cut 150,000 feet of lumber daily. One of the largest of these redwood trees measured 344 feet high, and 18 feet in diameter. The town of Gurneyfille is situated on Russian River, on what is known as " Big Bottom," in the finest red- wood forest in the State. Leaving Fulton and crossing Mark West Creek, the first station on the main line is two miles distant, called Mark West — but our train will not stop, unless signaled. The valley along here is ten miles in width. Three miles further comes Windsor — a small place four miles from Grant, a flag station which is two miles from Heraldsburg — reached just after cross- ing the Russian River, on the north bank of which it is situated. The town contains a population of about 2,000. Fifteen miles from Santa Rosa, and 72 from San Fran- cisco, is Russian Valley, in which the town is located, noted for its great yield of wheat, and the extraordinary quickness of its soil, producing potatoes, peas, and many other vegetables within G5 days from the time the seed is planted. The Mussian River Flag^ and the Enterprise, are weekly pa- pers, published here. The tourist will find excellent hunting and fishing near by, with ample hotel accommodations. From Heaidsburg the valley gradually narrows, and four miles further brings us to Lttton's Springs, a signal station, near where are located the springs of the same name. Four miles further is Geyserville — Here stages leave for Skagg's Springs — a popular resort — situ- ated at the side of the mountain, at the head of Dr}^ Creek Valley, about eight miles west. Truett's is six miles further, another flag station, four miles from the end of the road, at Cloverdale — This town contains a population of about 500, with two hotels, the United States, and the Cloverdale, and one weekly newspaper, the News. The town nestles in at the mountain base, at the head of the Russian River Valley, and is 55 miles from Donahue, and 90 miles from San Francisco, being a point from which several stage lines radiate, for the northern and surrounding country. Stages — four and six horse — leave Cloverdale daily, for the Geysers, 16 milts distant, over one of the finest mountain roads in the State. It is built on a uniform grade of four feet to the hundred. The owners of this line — A^an Arnam & Ken- nedy — are old "knights of the whip," drive themselves, and often make the trip in one and a half hours. The fare for the round trip is $4,50. For description of the Geysers, see Annex No. 45, and the large illustration No. 17. Stages run north to Ukiah, the county seat of Mendocino county, — 31 miles, where connections are made with all adjoining towns ; also, to the northeast, to Hopeland, on the Russian River, 16 miles; Highland Springs, 22 miles; Kelseyville, 25 miles; Lakeport, 36 miles ; Upper Lake, 42 miles ; and Bartlet Springs — a great medical resort — 63 miles. To the northwest, they run to Boonville, 31 miles; North Fork, 50 miles; Navaro Ridge, 63 miles ; Little River, 70 miles ; Salmon Creek, 72 miles ; and Men- dicono City, 75 miles; average fare to all, ten cents per mile. Returning to San Francisco we take Route 4, IVorth Pacific Coast Railroad. General Offices — San Francisco. Milton S. Latham, President. Jno. W. Doherty Gen. Manager. W. K. Price, Gen. Ticket Agent. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 225 built and equipped in the best manner, traversing a section of the country very- attractive to the tourist. It runs in a north- westerly direction from San Quentin and Sancilito, on the west side of the bay, twelve miles distant. The road has two southern termini, which unite at Junction, 17 miles from San Francisco. The bay is crossed by ferry from Davis St., for San- cilito, and from San Quentin Ferry — Market St. wharf— for San Quentin. We will take the latter route, which for nearly ten miles will be the same as Ko. 2 ; then, the route will be more to the westward. When near the point of Angel Island, on the left, the little town of Sancilito can be seen nestling close in beside the mountain. Between Sancilito and Angel Island runs Raccoon Straits. Mt. Tamalpais now looms up away to the left. Ncaring the shore, also on the left, is San Quentin — a noted place of sum- mer and winter resort. The resident tour- ists number from 600 to 1,000, their term of residence varying from six months to a life-time. The quarters for their accom- modation are furnished by the State, free of charge. The Lieutenant-Governor exer- cises personal supervision over the guests, assisted by many subordinates and a com- pany of soldiers. The guests come here, not of their own will, but through their folly, and we believe they would quit the place, if they could. By law it is known as the State Prison. The buildings are of brick, large, and readily distinguished, on the point to the left of the landing. Chang- ing for the cars, we glide along on the edge of the bay, with oak and shrub covering the lolling hills on the left, one and a-half miles, and arrive at San Rafael — the county seat of Marin county ; population, about 3,000. It was settled in 1817 by the Jesuit missionaries. It is situated in a beautiful little valley, on low rolling hills in view of the bay and San Francisco, and of late has become a thriving suburban town. The town contains several good hotels, and two weekly papers, the Herald and the Journal. Along the streets, and around the private residences, are many shade trees, among which are the blue gum, oak, Monterey cypress, spruce and pine, which present a beautiful appearance. Proceed- ing through the town two miles, we reach the Junction— Here connects the branch track from Sancilito ; let us digress long enough to come up on that route. Leaving Davis St. Ferry, in San Francisco, the course is almost due west for six miles to Sancilito — a small town situated close in beside the mountains of the Coast Range, containg a population of about 300. On the trip across the bay, a beautiful view can be had of the northwestern portion of San Francisco, Alcatraz, the Golden Gate, and the forts located there. At Sancilito we take the cars and soon come to the shops belonging to the Railroad Company; three miles further, Lyford's ; another mile, the Summit; two more, across an arm of the bay, is Corte Ma- dera ; two miles further Tamalpais — Here saddle horses can be procured for a ride up to the summit of the mountain, 2,604 feet, from which the finest view can be had of the Pacific Ocean, San Francisco, and San Pablo Bays, and the surrounding country, that can be ob- tained at any point. The distance is about eight miles. From Tamalpais station it is two miles to the Junction. From San- cilito the route has been one of beauty. In almost every nook of the mountain-side are residences surrounded with all that money and good taste can provide to make them beautiful and attractive homes. Leaving the Junction, after 1.5 miles comes the side-track of Fairfax, sur- rounded by rolling hills, covered with an eternal verdure of green. Curving 1o the right, look ! away up there to the left — see our road ! Can we get there ? Up, up we go, through a tunnel, and roll around the head of the little valley, and then to the left we can look away down and see the road up which we passed only a few moments ago. Keeping around on the southern slope of the hills, with an awful chasm on the left, beyond are high moun- tains upon the sides of which can be seen an occasional huge redwood tree. Curving around again to the right, up another^ little valley, our road again ap- pears far up on the opposite side, and again the head of the valley is reached ; the curve to the left is again made, and down, far below, is the road bed. There are two " Cape Horns," only not as high as Cape Horn on the Central Pacific. The scenery is very beautiful. Climbing up, see, on the right, the wagon road to Mt. Tamalpais, under which is the tunnel through which we pass; altitude, 565 feet; length, 1,250 feet. Beyond the tunnel, the grade descends, 226 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST curving around on the side of tlie liills, down into a little valley through which runs the San Gerouimo Creek. Here we find the madrone Iree, (see Annex, No. 8) and many oaks with drooping, moss- covered boughs. Six and a half miles from Fairfax, we come to NicAsio, a small station with an altitude of 370 feet. The mountains, on the left, are covered with a dense growth of trees, of many varieties, among which are redwood, pine, Douglas spruce, madrone, and buckeye shrubs. Passing Lagunitas, a small station, the road enters a narrow canyon, down which we run, with the red- wood lowering far above; pass the old powder mill and extensive pic-nic grounds on the right, which are visited in the sum- mer by thousands from San Francisco — on, past a big dam, and we arrive at Taylorsville — This is a small station, named for a Mr. Taylor, who established here the ^rst paper mill on the Pacific Coast, known as the "Pioneer Paper Mill." The canyon is narrow, with some tall redwoods along the creek, and on the side of the mountain to the left. Opposite, the country is rolling, with few trees — some- thing of a dairy country. TocoLOMA — comes next, three miles from Taylor's. Here a stage line runs to the town of Olema, two miles to the south, over the ridge, and also to Bolinas, four- teen miles distant. Passing on by milk ranches, crossing bridges, through deep cuts, over high embankments, curving around the side of the mountain on the left, the train comes out into a little valley, and 4.5 miles from the last station, and 38.5 miles from San Francisco, stops at Olema Station — This is an eating station, the only one on the road. Trains stop twenty minutes. Stages for Bolinas, south thirteen miles, leave every day, except week days. Leaving, the route is more to the north- ward, with Bolinas Bay over the hills to the left. The timber to the right has entirely dis- appeared, and there is but little on the left, with very little cultivated land. We are now approaching a section which is almost entirely devoted to dairying. Soon we come to Tomales Bay, a portion of which is crossed on a long pile bridge, where are extensive beds of planted oysters, the boundaries of which are marked by j^oles. Ducks are very abundant, and white peli- cans can often be seen as well as wild geese. This bay is about twenty miles in length, with an average width of one mile. Our train runs along on the edge of this bay, around rocky points, through spurs of the bluflTs, and across little inlets for about sixteen miles, where the road turns sharp to the right, up an arm of the hay. In this distance we find the following stations: Wharf Point, three miles from Olema; Millerton, two miles furthei-, and Marsiialls, nine more ; then comes Hamlet — Here the regular passenger trains meet. All these side- track stations along the bay are for the accommodation of the dairymen living near, who ship large quantities of milk and butter to San Francisco daily. Tomales Point is on the opposite side of the bay, wdiich is here only about three and a half miles from the ocean. Turning to the right, our road follows up a narrow little valley around rocky points, with high grass-covered hills on each side — makes one great rainbow curve, away around the head of the valley, and comes to a stop at Tomales — This station is 55 miles from San Francisco. Here the Railroad Com- pany have large warehouses for storing grain, from which large quantities are shipped annually. Tomales consists of a few dozen buildings, devoted to merchan- dizing, with a surrounding country well cultivated. Mt. St. Helena can be seen on the right, and, in a clear day, /ar beyond the snow-capped Sierras. Leaving the station, the road passes through the fourth tunnel, crossing a small creek on a high trestle bridge, and then a small inlet from the ocean, where we leave Marin county, enter Sonoma, and come to Valley Ford Station — Here a stage leaves daily for Petaluma, eighteen miles east. Years ago the section we are now entering was the southern border of the great redwood forests. Here the lumber- man began his labors, and as years passed, step by step he penetrated this great lum- ber region, leaving in his track stumps, fire, smoke, and finally the clearing, broad, rich fields and well-cultivated farms, from the productions of which he subsists while persistently following up his receding prey — the redwoods. The waters from Bodega Bay sit back to near the station, on the Teft. Three miles further, we come to Bodega Roads, and one mile more to Freestone, over a heavv srrade. Here we come to another AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 227 great horse-shoe curve, around the head of a small valley. First, the road-bed is far above, then/a?' heloic, with a deep gorge on the left, in which grow madrone, redwood, and oak trees. Now we come to a trestle bridge, 300 feet long and 137 feet high, over a frightful gorge; and then to the Summit Tunnel, 610 feet long, beyond which is Howard— The principal business at this station is burning coke. Passing on, we enter " Dutch Bill Canyon," called so in early days after Mr. Howard, who there wrestled with the big redwoods that it then contained . Redwoods now appear on each side, as also saw-mills. Streeten Mill is passed on the left, then another tunnel — there are five tunnels in all, on the road, aggregating 3,850 feet — then a long wood shute, and Tyrone Mitels — Here are extensive saw- mills on the left, with side-tracks running to them, with a capacity of 40,000 feet of lumber a day. Leaving this mill, on a down grade, through towering redwoods, 300 feet high, we roll down past another large mill, on the right, to the Russian River, just after passing an unimportant side- track of that name. The river at this place comes down through a perfect forest of towering red- woods, and is about 300 feet wide, with an av- erage depth of two feet. The train runs along on the southern bank, past a beautiful little cottage on the right, away up on a high spur of the mountains, that projects out into the river, and which has been left, as it were isolated by the cutting made by the Railroad Company in building the road. It is one of several country residences be- longing to the President of the road. Be- yond this point a short distance, is the Moscow Mills Station, opposite which comes in from the north, Austin Creek, abounding in redwoods. A short distance further, Russian River is crossed on a bridge 400 feet long, and the train stops at the end of the road at Duncan's Mills — Here are located ex- tensive saw-mills, in the midst of great for- ests of redwoods. The station is 80 miles from San Francisco, and consists of one large hotel, the Julian — a good station building, some shops of the Railroad Com- pany, several stores and a dozen or more residences, some of which are very good. Game of various kinds is abundant, such as deer, bears, etc., and some wild hogs. Fish — well, this is the fisherman's paradise. From Duncan's Mills it is six miles to the Ocean, reached by boats on Russian River, which is near the station, , also by a good wagon road. Stages leave Duncan's Mills daily, except Mondays, for the following places : Fort Ross, 16 miles ; Henry's, 16 miles; Timber Cove, 20 miles; Salt Point, 25 miles ; Fisk's Mills, 30 miles ; Stewart's Point, 34 miles; Gualala, 44 miles ; Fish Rock, 50 miles ; Point Arena, 60 miles ; Manchester, (dQ miles ; Cuffey's Cove, 80 miles ; Navarra Ridge, 86 miles ; and Mendocino City, 96 miles ; average fare ten cents per mile. Along the line of this road are located severall^rge saw-mills, which produce for market, 200,000 feet of redwood lumber daily. In conclusion; the ramble about Dun- can's Mills will be found by the tourist, a very pleasant one, in fact, the scenery along the whole line is very interesting. The rapid changes and the great variety are charming, instructive, and when once made will ever live in pleasant memory. Returning to San Francisco, we start on Itotite 5. il$oathern Pacific Railroad General Offices, San Francisco. Chas. Crockep, President. Geo. Gray Chief Engineer. A. C. Bassett, General Sux>erintendent . J. L. WiLLcuTT, Gen. Pas. and Ticket Agent. This company own the road from Goshen, in the San Joaquin Valley, and, including the Goshen Division, to Los Angeles and Yuma, in Arizona, but it is leased to and operated by the " Central " Company. . This leaves the Southern, only the line from San Francisco to Solidad, 142 miles, and the Trespinos division of 18 miles, making 160 miles, over which we propose journeying. Leaving the depot, which is situated op- posite the general office, corner Townsend and Fourth, the route is south, through the city for over four miles, most of the dis- tance built up with business blocks, manu- factories, large wool warehouses, shops and private residences. The company's machine shops — exten- sive works — are situated about two miles from the depot ; another mile is Valencia street, where is a horse-car line to the more central part of the city. Then we move another mile, through some deep cuts and high hills on the right, and are at 228 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Bernal — a small station 4.6 miles from our starting point. Some gardens and vegetable fields now appear, and a short distance from the station is the Industrial School, on an elevation to the right. San Miguel — is two miles further, among the sand-hills, where are some well- cultivated gardens. To the right is Lake Mercede and the city water works. Continuing along through the hills, which in places are close on each side — with the San Bruno Mountains in the dis- tance on the right — down a little valley, then through deep cuts, past Colma, a side-track, and Baden Bay, all in quick suc- cession, we come to the signal station of Baden, or as often called "Twelve Mile Farm." At this place Mr. Chas. Lux, of Lux and Miller, the largest cattle dealers on the Pacific Coast, resides ; and on Mr. Lux's " Twelve Mile Farm " can be found at all times, some of the best cattle in the State. Two miles further, and we are over the hills and down on the edge of San Fran- cisco Bay, which is on the left, and at San Bruno — This station consists of a good hotel, and four targets, as it is a great resort for shooting at target. The targets are on the edge of the bay to the left; distances, 200, 500, 800, and 1,000 yards each. Here the " sports " gather to try their hand. The San Bruno Hotel is on the right of the road, where all the targets are at shorter range, and the shots always certain to hit the red. Milbra — is the next station, 17 miles from San Francisco. To the right of the road, half-a-mile distant, is the residence of D. O. Mills, President of the Bank of California. It will be recognized by the two tall towers. A little beyond the station is the Milbra Dairy, with large yards and buildings. On the left, in the bay, are great beds of planted oysters. Soon after leaving Milbra, we come to Burlingame, desie;ned and laid out by the late Mr. Rals- ton in long streets and avenues, extending for two miles along the road, and from the base of the mountains, on the right, to the bay on the left, about another two miles. Beside these streets and avenues, are double rows of planted trees, most of which are eu- calyptus and Monterey cypress. There are some beautiful residences here and there along the base of the mountains on the right. Ttn'o miles from Milbra, we pass Oak Grove, a small station named for the grove of oaks near by. One peculiarity of this country is: no matter how much ground is shaded with oaks, it makes no diflerence with the crops, all kinds of which seem to grow equally well in the shade and in the sun. San Mateo — (pronounced Ma-t-o). Here are some of the finest private residences and grounds in the State. This town con- tains a population of about 1,500. Oaks and orchards are everywhehe. Stages leave San Mateo daily on the arrival of the train from San Francisco for Half-Moon Bay, 14 miles west; Purissima, 23 miles; Pescadero, 30 miles. At the latter place connections are made tri-weekly for Pigeon Point, seven miles ; Davenport's Landing, 38 miles, and Santa Cruz, 40 miles ; average fare ten cents per mile. Leaving the station, we pass — on the right — a beautiful park, and the Young Ladies' Seminary ; also a race track. To the left the bay lies close, and the land is of little value, until reclaimed, but on the right is beauty, spread out with a lavish hand. Live oaks are scattered around in all directions, with buckeye in the ravines coming down from the mountains on the the right. Windmills are numerous the whole length of the valley. Belmont — which is 25 miles from San Francisco, comes next. At this station the guests of the late Mr. Ralston were wont to alight to visit his residence. This place is located a half-mile to the west, up a little valley, just out of sight from the railroad. It originally contained about 100 acres, which, upon the death of Mr. Ralston, came into possession of Senator Sharon, who presented 40 acres of the land, including an elegant cottage, to the widow, Mrs. Ralston. Leaving Belmont, the Phelps estate is on the right, and double rows of eucalyptus on the left, for two miles. The country between the hills and the bay is flat, and under a high state of cultivation. Redwood City — comes next, 3.5 miles from Belmont. It is the county seat of San Mateo county, and a thriving place. It was named from the great redwood forest on the west, a large quantity of which finds its way to market in the shape of lumber, wood and bark, from this station. The city is supplied with water from an artesian well. The county buildings, schools, churches and hotels, are all said to be first-class, as well as the weekly pa- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 229 per, the Times and Gazette. Stages leave daily for Seareville, seven miles ; La Honda, 16 miles, and Pescadero, 30 miles. Passing Fair Oaks, a small station in the midst of beautiful residences, sur- rounded with parks, gardens, orchards and moss-drooping oaks, we come to Menlo Park — near which reside a score or more of millionaires, including Ex- Gov. Stanford, Milton S. Latham, J. C. Flood, Albert Grand, Faxon Atherton, Maj. llathbone, M. D. Sweney, Col. Eyre, and many others. Menlo Park Hotel is situated on the right, and is embowered in trees, vines, and flowers. On the left, leaving the station, is "Thurlow Lodge," a palatial residence, situated in the center of princely grounds, with the most costly sur- roundings, consisting of deer park, trees, gardens, orchards and shrubbery. A little further, on the right, comes the 500-acre farm of Ex-Gov. Stanford, President of the Central Pacific railroad. Here is the home of " Occident," and some of the finest blooded stock on the Pacific coast. i Mayfield — a town of 1,000 inhabitants, 34.9 miles from San Francisco, is situated in the widest part of Santa Clara Valley, embowered in " blue gum " oaks, and other trees. It is A..9, miles from Mountain View — a small station, so named from the extended view which it affords of the Coast Range on the west, the Contra Costa, on the east, as well as the whole surround- ing country. The great oaks add an indescribable beauty to this country, and grow in great pro- fusion, particularly on the Murphy Grant, through which we are now passing. This grant originally covered some thousands of acres, in this, the richest portion of the Santa Clara Valley. Murphy's Station — for the accommodation of the grant — is lo- cated near its center. We are now opposite the head of San Francisco Bay — on the east — and the little town of Alviso, which is noted for its strawberries and fruit, as well as being a point from which immense quantities of produce are shipped on the boats that land at its ample wharf We pass on through a section, where every foot of land is in a high state of cul- tivation, for two miles, and come to Lawrence — a small place 3.5 miles from the beautiful Santa Clara — This is a beautiful and quiet old town of about 4,000 inhabitants, originally founded by the Jesuits, in 1774. It is situated near the center of Santa Clara Valley, one of the loveliest in the world, possessing a soil of surpassing richness. It is celebrated for the salubrity of its cli- mate, and the excellence and variety of its fruits; is thickly settled, and as a wheat- growing valley it has no superior. In point of improvements, good farm-houses, orchards, vineyards, etc., it has few, if any, equals. Churches and schools are numerous; Santa Clara and San Jose — three miles apart — are both noted for their educational institutions, where some of the finest in the State are located. The convent of Notre Dame, the San Jose Institute, the State Normal School, and the new building of the University of the Pacific, Methodist, Female Seminary, and the Catholic Col- legiate Institute, stand as monuments to attest a people's integrity and worth. There are two weekly papers published at Santa Clara — the Index and News. Stages leave daily for Los Gatos, seven miles ; Lexington, ten miles ; and the Con- gress Springs, thirteen miles; fare, ten cents per mile. These springs are resorted to by those suftering with pulmonary complaints. The Bay Coast narrow gauge railroad, now building from Alameda, opposite San Francisco, to Santa Cruz, distance 76 miles, passes through Alvarado, quite a manufacturing town on the east side of the bay, about ten miles west of Niles to Santa Clara. The road from Santa Clara will soon be in running order; 30 miles further to Santa Cruz, situated on an arm of Monterey Bay, and is often called the "Newport" of California, being a noted sum- mer resort for sea bathers, who find good accommodations in the shape of hotels, bathing houses, etc. It is the county seat of Santa Cruz county, population, 3,000; connected by rail with the Southern Pa- cific at Pajaro 21 miles and, with Fulton eight miles; and by stage, with all adjoin- ing towns up and down the coast, and by steamer to San Francisco. Returning to Santa Clara, we can, if we choose, step into the horse-cars, or take a carriage for San Jose, and ride over the beautiful Alameda Avenue, which is bordered on each side with two rows of poplar and willow trees, planted by the early Jesuit missionaries nearly 100 years ago. Behmd these trees are elegant cottages, 230 crofutt's new overland tourist beautiful orchards, nurseries, and gardens, containing almost every variety of vege- tables, fruits, and flowers. By steam cars it is 2.6 miles from Santa Clara to San Jose City — (Pronounced San 0-za) ; population, 18,000. This is the county seat of Santa Clara county, and is the larg- est town in Santa Clara Valley, in popu- lation being the fourth in the State. It was first settled by the Spanish mission- aries, in 1777. The city is lighted with gas; the streets are macadamized, and ornamented with rows of shade trees on each side. Artesian wells, and the " Cali- fornia Wind Mill," together with a small mountain stream, abundantly supply the city with good water. The Alameda, or grove, was planted in 1799. It is by far the prettiest grove of planted timber in the State, and by many people it is claimed that San Jose is the prettiest city in the State. It is certainly one of the best im- proved, and there are none more beautiful. Its orchards, vineyards and shade trees ; its fine private and public buildings, and the delightful climate of the valley, render it a favorite place of summer resort. San Jose has numerous church edifices — ample public and private schools, hotels, and newspapers. The Mercury and In- dependent, both daily and weekly; the Patriot, daily; and Argus, weekly, are published here. The Auzerais, St. James, Exchange and Lick, are the principal hotels. The city is connected by railroad with Solidad, 72 miles, south, and San Francisco by two lines — the one we came on, through the thickly settled and well- cultivated Santa Clara and San Mateo countries ; distance, 50 miles, and by Cen- tral Pacific via Niles and Oakland. The new road to Mt. Hamilton — 20 miles distant — leaves San Jose, and can be seen winding up the side of the mountain, on the east. It was for the erection of a college on the summit of Mt. Hamilton — altitude, 4,400 feet — that the millionaire, James Lick, left $150,000 in his will— it should be called the Lick High Hamilton College. Stages leave San Jose daily for the noted New Almaden Quicksilveii Mines — These mines are very extensive, and should be visited by the curious. They were dis- covered by an officer in the Mexican ser- vice during the year 1845, who, seeing the Indians with their faces i)iiinted with ver- milion, bribed one of them, who told him where it was to be found. The following year, several English and Mexicans formed a company for working the mines, large sums of money were expended, and many difficulties had to be overcome ; but finally, by the introduction of important improve- ments, the mines have proved to be very valuable. The difi'erent mines furnish employment for, and support trom 1,000 to 1,500 persons. Nearly all the miners are Mexicans. It is supposed that these mines were known and worked by the native Indians of California, long before the country was known by white men. They worked them to procure the vermilion paint which the ore contained, for the purpose of painting and adorning their villainous persons, and to " swop " with the neighboring tribes. Near the mines are the springs, where is put up the New Almaden Vichy Water, so noted for its medicinal qualities. The Guadalupe Quicksilver mines are ten miles distant. Both San Jose and Santa Clara are em- bowered in trees, among which are the oak, eucalyptus, poplar, spruce cedar, Monterey and Italian cypress, orange, pepper, sycamore, and many others. Leaving San Jose, the State Normal School building is on the left in the center of a block, surrounded by beautiful grounds. Several miles further on is the Hebrew Cemetery. Here the road to Mt. Hamilton can be plainly seen; it is 22 miles long and 30 feet wide, with a uni- fonn grade of five feet to the hundred. Away to the right, on the side of the mountain, marked by a red appearance, is a quicksilver mine, but the water prevents work. Still further and below, is the New Almaden mine, marked by columns of steam that are always ascending. Coyote Creek is now on our left, in a broad, low bottom. The small stations of Eden Vale, Coyote and Perrys, are soon passed, and 18.8 mi>es from San Jose, we are at Madrone— The country passed over is well settled, and many fine residences are scattered along the valley, which is about one mile in width, with low rolling hills on the west. Leaving Madrone, on the right a huge sharp cone rises up out of the valley 1,000 feet in height. We call it Johnson's Peak, named for the enterprising newsman of this road. Tennants — is four miles further, be- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 231 yond which is the most magnificent moss view that one could conceive. Sycamore and moss-drooping oaks are very plentiful, reminding one of the appearance of a New England apple orchard after a storm of snow and rain, where all the limbs and boughs are borne down with icicles and snow, GriLROY — is seven and a half miles from Tennaut and 80.3 miles from San Francisco ; a regular eating station, where trains stop twenty minutes for meals, which are very good; price, 50 cents. Grilroy contains a population of about 2,000. most of whom are engaged in agricultural and pastoral pursuits. Tobacco is raised in large quan- tities, and dairying is made a specialty by many of the people. The principal hotels are the Southern Pacific and the Williams. Stages leave Gilroy for San Fillipe, 10 miles; Los Eanos, 48 miles; and Fire- baughs, 80 miles east ; fare ten cents per mile. Stages run daily to the Gilroy Hot Springs, a very attractive resort, 15 miles east. From Gilroy it is 2.2 miles to Carnadero — a small station where pas- senger trains meet, and from which a track branches to the left and continues up the Santa Clara Valley, 11.8 miles to HoLLESTER — a thrifty town of 2,000 in- habitants, most of whom are agriculturists. From Hollester it is 6.2 miles to Trespinos — the end of the track. From this point large quantities of freight are shipped for the New Idria Quicksilver, Picacho and other mines in the country, to the south and east. Stages run tri-weekly to San Bruno, 25 miles; New Idria, 65 miles; Picacho, 75 miles; fare about ten cents per mile. The original route of the Southern Pacific railroad was from this point, via San Benito Pass to Goshen, in the San Joaquin Valley. From Goshen the road is built a distance of 40 miles this way, to Huron. Whether the link between the two divisions will be completed and when, we will never tell, till we know. The distance across to Huron is, to San Benito Pass, 60 miles; to Huron, 100 miles. Returning to Carnadero, we soon come to the great Bloomfield Ranche, which takes in many thousand acres, crossing the valley and over the mountains, on each side. It is the home of Mr. Miller, of Lux & Miller, the great cattle men. At Baden, twelve miles from San Francisco, we pass Mr. Lux's place, the " Twelve Mile Farm." On this ranche are kept and fattened great numbers of cattle, for the market of San Francisco. Continuing up the valley, which is here narrowed to one mile in width, with low- grass-covered hills on each side, we come to the residence of Senator Sargent, on the right, and a short distance further, Sargent Station — in the midst of a dairy country. Stages leave here for San Juan, south, six miles distant, up a little valley to the left, distinctly seen a few miles further on our way. Soon after leaving the station, we turn more to the westward, and the little valley is completely crowded out by the bluff's, and we run along on the bank of Pajaro River, up a narrow canyon, and cross the line between Santa Clara and Santa Cruz county, at the point where Pescadero Creek comes in on the right. Continuing up, between high bluffs, we cross a bridge over the Pathro River and are in San Benito county, then dive through a tunnel 950 feet long, and come out into the beauti- ful Pajaro Valley, which is nine miles long and four wide, a portion of the Aroma Grant, once a very extensive one. The Santa Cruz Mountains are high, on the right, and covered with a dense growth of redwoods. Passing Vega, a signal station, we come to Pajaro— (pronounced Pad-ro) thirteen miles from Sargent's, and 99.4 from San Francisco. Watsonville — is one mile to the right from this station, and contains a popula- tion of 4,000, and is a thrifty town, situated three miles from Watson's landing, on Monterey Bay, where steamers and other vessels land regularly. It contains two weekly papers, the Pajaronian and the Transcript. The Lewis House is the prin- cipal hotel. Yxom. Pajaro, the Santa Cruz, narrow- gauge railroad connects with the Southern Pacific. This road is 21.15 miles long and runs through Watsonville, Aptos, and Soquel, to Santa Cruz. (See map, page 201.) The lumber business is, next to the agri- cultural, the most important interest in this section of the country. From Pajaro, our course will be east of south, to the end of the road. Rolling down this beautiful valley, we come to Elkhorn Slough, over which our road is built on piles for a long distance. To the right, down this slough, is Moss Landing, nine miles distant, between which and a pier, close on our right, a small 232 " CKOFtTTT's NEW OVERLAND TOURIST steamboat plies regularly, for the transpor- tation of freight and passengers for the regular coast steamboats that stop at this point. We are now running along, over and be- side a salt marsh, inhabited by cranes, peli- cans, ducks and mud-hens, with peat -bogs and stagnant pools for immediate sur- roundings, while to the . left, a half-mile away, is high rolling prairie, covered with cattle and sheep, beyond, the long range of the Gabilan Mountains, while to the far right an occasional glimpse can be had of Old Pacific. A run of 10.3 miles from Pajaro, and the train stops at Castro viLLE— one-half mile to the west of the railroad; population about 800. The town is situated at the northern end of Sali- nas Valley, in Monterey county, one of the most productive in the State. It is recorded in the Agricultural Bureau in Washington, that the largest yield of wheat ever known was grown in this valley, in 1852, being 102 bushels to the acre. That year whole fields averaged 100 bushels to the acre; an ordi- nary crop is from 40 to 50 bushels. In 1876, Monterey county produced 800,000 bushels of wheat, 400,000 bushels of barley, 70,000 bushels of oats, and other productions in proportion. Sheep and cattle in large numbers are raised. The wool-clip for 1876 amounted to 1,500,000 lbs.; butter, 360,000 lbs. ; cheese, 120,000 lbs. ; average value of land, $8 per acre. The lands in this valley are mostly " safe lands," 1. e., will raise a crop without irrigation. Emi- grant, this is a good place for you to come to. To the east, beside the mountains, can be seen, at certain points after leaving Cas- troville, the little villages^of Natividad and Sodaville, also the Alisal race-track. As we proceed south wai'd, the valley widens and appears more beautiful. Salinas — is 7.9 miles south of Castro- ville, situated to the right of the road, and on the east bank of Salinas River, with a thriving population of 3,000, and many fine stores, hotels, and private residences. The Abbott House is the principal hotel, and the Index and Democrat are two papers published here weekly. Stages leave daily for New Republic, east, three miles; Natividad, northeast, six miles ; fare, ten cents per mile. From Salinas a railroad extends nineteen miles west to Monterey — This place is situated on the southern extreme of the bay of Monte- rey, the most capacious on the Pacific Coast, 136 miles from San Francisco by rail, and about 100 by steamer. Immedi- ately to the westward of the city is Point Pinos, j utting out to the northward four miles, to meet Point Santa Cruz, another long promontory extending from the north, between which and the main land — land-locked as it were — is the broad bay of Monterey. This bay was first discovered by Cabrillo in 1542. In 1770, the site was occupied by the Jesuits, under the leader- ship of Padre Junipero, wiio, June 8d of that year, held the first mass. The bell which called the faithful together was hung from a tree, the location of which is now marked by a cross, erected on the centennial day of its celebration, bearing the legend, " June 3d, 1770." On the hill, near this cross, are the ruins of an old fort, near a Mexican fort of later date; and higher up the hill is where the American fort of 1846 was built, when the Ameri- cans seized the country. Monterey is a quiet, sleepy old town, where every person seems satisfied with himself, apparently believing the world is completed ; living on in the dreamy self- satisfied consciousness that the spirit of progress is at an end ; a present tangible heaven of eternal sunshine. It is a glori- ous place to spend a few weeks ; having done so, the pleasurable memories of the sojourn will ever remain a ray of soft sun- shine, while plodding through the cares, trials and perplexities of an active business life. Monterey — as one might well sup- pose — is a favorite resort in the summer for the better classes of citizens of the State, as well as for tourists, who find ample accommodations. Returning to Salinas, and starting once more for the south, we find this to be the widest portion of Salinas Valley, which is about 90 miles in length, with an average width of eight miles. The valley is situ- ated between the Gabilan Mountains, to the eastward, and Santa Lucian Range on the west, about 20 miles from the Pacific Ocean, from the wdnds of which it is pro- tected by the mountain named. Chualar — is tl e next station, 10.9 miles from Salinas, and consists of several stores, hotels, salooDS, and a dozen or more resi- dences. Here are cattle pens and shutes, indicating that we are in a country where cattle are shipped to market; the sanae might be said of Gonzales, a station six miles further, only there are a few more 232 stean tatioi regul point Wi side c cans, and I rounc away, cattle the ( far ri of 01( Ar train Cm the r; town nas V most] in the that t] was g bushe avera^ nary 1876, bushe 70,000 in pro numb 1876 360,00 value this v will r! grant, Tol seen, trovill Sodav As widen Sal ville, i on the thrivi] fine s The A and t papers Sta^ east, six mi Salim west t Mo] the so MOUNT SHASTA, SACRAMI^ 'ALLEY, CALIFORNIA, (See Annex No. 43.) (W.) AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 233 CROSSING THE LOOP OVER TUNNEL NO. 9, TEHACHAPI PASS, people, "scratcliing the soil, which is greatly abused by this shiftless method of farming. Proceeding on 8.4 miles further, we reach the end of the track at SoLiDAD — This is a small place of a hundred or more inhabitants, with a few stores, hotels, saloons, stage-stables, freight- warehouses, and some private residences. It is a point from which a large amount of freight is shipped to the southward, and from which a regular daily line of stages runs to the following places: Lowe's, 28 miles; Solon, 40 miles; Paso Robles Hot Springs, 80 miles ; San Louis Obispo, 110 miles; Arroyo Grande, 125 miles; Gaudalupe, 140 miles , Santa Barbara, 220 miles; San Buena Ventura, 250 miles, and Newhall, 300 miles; average fare, eight cents per mile To the westward of Solidad, seven miles, away up a cosy nook of the Coast Range, is situated the Paraiso Springs, which, it is claimed, possess great medicinal qual- ities, particularly valuable in cases of rheumatism, asthma, and kindred diseases. We could hear of no analysis of these waters, which boil up in close proximity to each other. Some are very hot, others very cold— but soda, iron, and white sul- phur are the principal ingredients. Ample hotel accommodations will be found at the Springs, where bathing in the waters, hunting, fishing, and inhaling the pure mountain air can be enjoyed to the heart's content. In conclusion, this is one of those trips where a great diversity of scenery, numer- ous objects of interest and the wealth and beauties, and the varied productions of the State can be seen and contemplated. Returning to San Francisco, and before leaving again, and for the last time, we will refer those of our readers who wish to procure other publications treating of this country in a more general way to Annex No. 51. ^34 crofutt's new overland tourist VISALIA DIVISION OENTEAL PACIFIC RAILROAD. FROM LATHROP TO TULARE E. C. Fellows, Div. Supt. R. B. Campbell, Asst.Div. Supt. TOWARDS SUNRISE. Daily Emigrant and freight. 5:00 pm 1:00 1:36 2:05 2:25 3:07 3:35 4:30 5:35 6:19 7:00 8:15 8:40 9:20 9:53 10:05 10:43 11:25 12:10 1:00 1:40 2:10 3:00 a m p m Daily Express lst«fc2dcrs 4:00 4:25 p m 8:15* 8:29 8:40 8:47 9:03 9:14 9:35 10:00 10:16 10:35 11:18 11:33 11:54 12:10 12:18 12:35 1:00 1:23 1:46 2:05 2:20 2:50 p m a m p ni Distance from San Francisco ...0. .3.7. .82. ..88. ..93. ..96 .102 .107. .115. .126. .132. .140. .150. .156. .166. .173. .176. .185. .195. .204 .215. .22:3. .229 .239. SAN FRANCISCO TIME. STATIONS. LV....SAN FRANCISCO... Oakland Wharf • Ar Ar Lv LATHROP.... Morrano Ripon Salida Modesto Ceres Turlock Chessey 'Atwater Merced Plainsburgh Minturn Berenda Madera Barden Sycamore Fresno Fowler Kingsburgh Cross Creek. . . Goshen Lv TULARE Ar TOWARDS SUNDOWN. Altitude. ,.0... .14.. ..26. 91, ,171.. Daily Express let & 2d el's 12:40 12:25 p m Daily Emigrant and freight 7:00 am .292.... .278., .282., :20* :05 :55 :47 :30 :20 :00 :35 :19 :40 :15 :58 :33 :15 :06 :44 :17 :53 :25 :05 :50 :20 a m a m 10:00 9::iO 9:03 8:47 7:55 2:27 6:35 5:35 4:55 3:45 2:58 2:28 1:43 1:08 12:55 12:10 11:25 10:40 9:50 9:10 8:40 7:50 p m p m pm FROM TULARE DIVISION SOUTHERN PACIFIC. TULARE TO MOJAVA 3:20 p m 4-10 2:55 3:18 am 3:45 4:03 4:30 4:46 5:14 5:45 6:10 6:32 7:05 7:25 7:50 8:18 8:35 8:50* am ...2:i9.... •^50 Lv TULARE Ar Tipton ...282.... ...267 ... 1:15 12:50 12:19 am 11:58 11:28 11:08 1C:37 10:00 9:40 9:17 8:47 8:28 8:00 7:32 7:15 7:00* pm 7:35 6:50 6:00 6:23 4:30 3:40 2:25 12:55 12:10 11 :35 10:33 9:55 9:05 8:10 7:38 7:05 a m 5:07 5:46 .262 Aliia . 270 Delano ...313.... 6-43 . .282 ... Poso 7-20 ...290.... Lerdo 8*20 ...302 ... . 317 Sumner ...415 ... 10*00 Pampa 10:50 ...324.... Caliente ..1290.... a m 11 :35 ...330.... Bealville 12:30 a m ...338.... Keene 1:05 ...343.... ...350.... ...359... . . .od4, • • • ...370.... . . Girard 1:50 2:37 Tehachapia Summit ... Cameron ..3964.... 3:05 . , Nadeau 3:35 am Ar MOJAVA Lv ..2757.... p m * Meals. Note Altitude. Ho! for Yo-Semite, the "Big Trees," over the "Loop," across the Mojava Des- ert, down through Solidad, and to Los Angeles; then, over the San Barnardino, down under the sea, over the great Colorado Desert, into Arizona. Towards Sunrise. Leaving San Francisco, the route is via Oakland, Niles, and Livermore Pass, to Lathrop, over the track of the Overland line — as described^commencing on page 208. Just before reaching Lathrop, our AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 235 train leaves the track of the Overland and turns to the right, leaving the station build- ing between ours and the Overland track. At Lathrop our train stops HO minutes for supper, and then turns to the right, up the Great San Joaquin Valley The general direction of our road, for the next 350 miles, is to the southeast. San Joaquin (pronounced San Waw- Keen). — This valley embraces portions of nine counties, and is larger than many kingdoms of the old world, diUd. far richer, extending to Visalia, county seat of Tulare county. The amount of grain and stock raised in this valley, and the hundreds of smaller ones tributary to it, is almost in- credible, for a country so recently settled. The valley is about 200 miles in length, and averages about 30 miles in width ; comprising near 6,000,000 acres of the richest agricultural lands in the State, besides near a million acres of tuiles and salt marsh lands, which, when reclaimed, prove to be the most fertile lands in the world. morano — is 5.5 miles from Lathrop, important only, as many ether stations on this road are, as a shipping point for grain, with side-track and great storage warehouses. Ripon — comes next, 4 7 miles further, near which the Stanislaus River is crossed, and three miles more comes l§lalida — another small station, with accommodations for shipping and storing grain. From Salida it is 6.8 miles to jllodesto — the county seat of Stanis- laus county. It was laid out in 1870, and now contains a population of over 1,500, while the county contains about 11,000 Agriculture is the chief occupation of the people Leaving Modesto, we cross the Tou- lumna River, and in 4.6 miles reach Ceres, a small, unimportant side-track, 8.5 miles from TuRLOCKS, another small station, 101 miles from Cresset, reached just after crossing the Mercede River. Continuing on 6.7 miles, Atwater is reached. At this station, as well as those we have passed are large buildings for storing grain, as grain-raising — wheat — is the only occu- pation of the settlers. From Atwater it is 7.5 miles to one of the most important places so far on the road, Mercede — the county seat of Mercede county ; population about 3,000 ; has many tine buildings, including a $75,000 court house and a large first-class hotel, the El Capitan, Col. Bross, proprietor. There are two weekly papers published in Mercede, the Argus and the Express. From Mercede it is ten miles east, to the foot-hills and thirty to the western edge of the valley, at the base of the Contra Costa Range. The county of Mercede is the richest in the valley; it had 360,700 acres of land under cultivation in 1876, which yielded a little over 4,500,000 bushels of wheat, be- sides large quantities of barley, rye, corn, peas, beans, potatoes, hay, tobacco, cotton and many other kinds of crop& The county contains a population of 65,000, most of whom are tilling the soil In this county was raised the finest cotton in the State. The value of these lands ranges from $2,50 to $10 per acre. The gan^e is plentiful in the river bot- toms and along the foot-hills. Irrigating canals convey water over a great portion of the land. Some of these canals are quite extensive ; one, the San Joaquin & King's River Canal is 100 miles long, 68 feet wide and six feet deep. For several years the greater portion of the travel for Yo-Semite Valley and the big tree groves took stages at Mercede, passing over the route, via Coulterville or Mari- posa, but a new route (see map, page 201) has been laid out from Madera, 33 miles further south, which, it is claimed, makes the distance by stage much shorter, and over a better road However, we shall give both routes in Annex No 53, and tourists can decide which they will take. Should they go in on one and out on the other route, little of the scenery will be overlooked, Mariposa — county seat of Mariposa county, is 45 miles east, reached by stage from Mercede. This town contains about 1,000 inhabitants Once it was noted for its rich placer mines, but now quartz mining is the principal occupation of the people. In Bear Valley are the mills and mines (or a portion of them) belonging to the " Las Mariposa Grant," or the Fremont estate, as it is usually called. The Benton mills are on the Mercede River, about two miles from the town, reached by a good dug road, down a very steep mountain In Mount Ophir and Princeton, a mining town near by, are large quartz mills, be- longing to the estate, and extensive mines. Leaving Mercede, it is 9.9 miles to Plainsbnrg — a small station near the crossing of Mariposa River, beyond 236 CROFUTT's new overland TOURiST which, the Conchilla River is crossed, arid MiNTCiiN is reached 6.4 miles from Plains- burg, in the extreme western edge of Fresno county. For a long distance the foot-hills of the Sierras on the left have appeared to be close and very rugged. The peaks of Mt. Lyell and Ritter loom up on the left, full 80 miles away, and a little further south- ward Mts. Goddard, King, Gardner, Brewer, Silliman, Tyndall and others can be distinctly seen with their summits covered wuth snow. Berenda — is reached 9.5 miles from Minturn, soon after which we cross the Fresno River, and many broad, sandy, dry creeks, and 7.5 miles more come to Madera — This is a busy town of about 300 population. Here we find a large " V " flume, 53 miles long, for float- ing lumber down to the saw-mills in the mountains, at the end of the flume. It was completed in 1876, and does an immense business. From Madera, a new road has been completed, to the Yo-Semite Valley, via Fresno Flats, through Fresno and Mariposa big tree groves. For map of route, see page 201, and for description of route, Annex No. 53. No visitor to this coast ever thinks ot leaving it without viewing the wonderful. Yo-Semite Valley and the Big Trees — The grandest scenery , on the American Continent, if not in the world, is to be seen in the valley of the Yo- Semite, (pronounced Yo-Sem-i-te; by the Indians, Yo-Ham-i-te). This valley was discovered by white men in March, 1851, first by Major Savage. It is about eight miles long, and from one-half to a mile in width. The Merced River enters the head of the valley by a series of waterfalls, which — combined with the perpendicular granite walls which rise on either side from 2,000 to 6,000 feet above the green valley and sparkling waters beneath — pre- sents a scene of beauty and magnificent 3 unsurpassed, except, possibly^ in child- hood's fairy dreams. Here is majesty — enchanting — awe-in- spiring'^indescribable! — the lofty cloud- capped waterfalls and mirrored lakes ; the towering, perpendicular granite clifls and fearful chasms, strike the beholder with a wondering admiration impossible to de- scribe. We have often desired to take our read- ers with us, in a pen and pencil descrip- tion of this most remarkable valley, and the " Big Trees," but in view of our lim- ited space, the magnitude of the under- taking, together with our conscious in- ability to do justice to the subject, we have contented ourselves by giving a number of beautiful illustrations, which include the great Yo-Semite Falls, Nevada Falls, Mir- ror Lake, ana a map of the routes and the surrounding country, showing the rela- tive position of the valley, trees, and ad- joining towns to the railroad. The most notable falls in "Yo-Semite Valley are: the Ribbon, 3,300 feet fall; the Upper Yo-Semite, 2,634 feet; the Bridal Veil, 950; the Nevada, 700; the Lower Yo-Semite, 600; the Vernal, 350 feet. The South Dome is 6,000 feet high ; the Three Brothers, 4,000 ; Cap of Liberty, 4,240 ; Three Graces, 3,750 ; North Dome, 3,725; Glaciers Point, 3,705; El-Capitain, 3 300; Sentinel Rocks, 3,270; Cathedral Rocks, 2,690; Washington Tower, 2,200; and the Royal Arches, 1,800 feet high. In conclusion, we would refer those of our readers wiio desire full information concerning this w^onderful country, to " Scenes of Wonder and Curiosity in Cal- ifornia," by J. M. Hutchings, of Yo-Semite. This book is a thorough guide-book ot Yo- Semite Valley, profusely illustrated, viv- idly describing every object of interest, step by step, with facts and figures, telling just what the tourist wants to know. From Madera, the country is more adapted for grazing, and large herds of sheep can be seen while passing through; It contains over 750,000 head of sheep from which is clipped 2,000,000 pounds of wool annually. The old Fresno placer mines are to the eastward, along trie foot-hills, but little is being done with them, by the whites ; the Chinese are working them over, as they arc many of the abandonedplacersthrough- out the State. Borden — on Cottonwood Creek, is the next station. This place is 3.8 miles from Madera, with about 100 population. Here irrigating ditches appear on each side, and much of the land is under culti- vation. Nine miles further comes Syca- more, a side-track of little account, just at the crossing of the San Joaquin River, which is here a small stream, with very little water. The county is now quite flat, with many little round mounds from ten to thirty feet in diameter, and from two to five feet in height. They present a very peculiar appearance, somewhat re- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 237 sembling a prairie dog tower, only much larger, and without the hole in the top. From Sycam(;re it is 9.8 miles to C^resno — the county seat of Fresno county, a county the most diversified in the State, where land can be purchased for from $3.00 to $10 per acre. The town of Fresno has a population of about 800 , has a $60,000 court-house, some good business blocks, two weekly newspapers — the Ex- positor and Meview — and is a thrifty, grow- ing place. The soil about the town is largely clay, producing well when irri- gated, and never a seed without. A most beautiful view is here to be ob- tained of the mountains on the left; the principal peaks rise from 12,000 to 14,000 feet above this valley, covered with snow the year round Planted timber appears at places, and some of the private resi- dences are surrounded by trees, mostly eucalyptus, A stage line runs to Centreville, seventeen miles east. Several schemes are in hand for building large irrigating canals, taking the water from the San Joaquin and King's rivers, which, when completed, will be of great benefit to this people. To the southwest, three and a half miles, is located the California Colony of about 125 families The colony's land is regu- larly laid out for a town, with 40 acres of ground for each family. The canal that supplies water to the colony is crossed about five miles after leaving Fresno. Little of the land along here lying near the road is cultivated, but wheu the irrigating canals spoken of are completed, they yj'iW all be found occupied and yielding lai-ge crops. From Fresno it is 9.6 miles to Foivler — a small station where trains seldom stop, there being only half-a-dozen buildings— so we roll on 10.5 miles fui'- ther to Kingsbliry — where there are several stores, and about one dozen buildings. All along this valley numerous wind' mills are in operation, for irrigating and domestic purposes, that raise abundance of good water from a depth of from fifteen to forty feet. Soon after leaving Kingsbury, the road is built on an embankment which extends to King's River, which is crossed on a Jong trestle bridge. This river rises in the high Sierras, to the northeast, and after reaching this val- ley, has a broad, sandy bottom, is very crooked, its course being marked, far above and below, with trees and willows which grow thickly along its bank. King's River, where the railroad crosses it, is the boundary line, beyond which lies the county of Tulare. Sheep ranches, fenced fields — some very large — are now noticeable extending to the right and left — well we don't know how far, as the valley hereabout is full 40 miles in width, and sheep and fences, and fences and sheep, extend as far as the eye can distinguish the appearance of the land, the soil of which is clay and sand, in places somewhat alkaline. Cattle are also raised to some extent in the foot-hills, and pens and shutes for shipping are to be seen at many of the stations on the road. The next station is Cross Creek, 8.1 miles from Kingsburg, and 5 8 miles from Ooshen.- Here we come to the South- ern Pacific railroad — Goshen Division — the track of which could be seen on the right, just before reaching the station. This division is only completed 40 miles, and is designed, eventually, to connect with the line extending towards it from Gilroy, which is now completed to Trespinos 100 miles south of San Francisco, referred to on page 281. The stations on the Goshen division are • Hanford, 12.9 miles from Goshen-, Le- MOOR, eight miles further; Heinlen, 1.6 miles, and 17.r more to Huron — whole distance, 40 miles from Goshen , distance from Huron to Trespi- nos, 100 miles. This division runs through what IS known as the " Mussel Slough " country, u section where the land is very rich, adjoining Tulare Lake, on the north, wher' the yield of all kinds of crops is marvelous Reports say some of these lands have yielded as high as $250 per acre in a single year; that ^oe crops of Alfalfa a year is common, and vegetables — well, W' will ne^er tell you — the yield is immense ! two hundred pound pumpkins, eight feet in circumference ; potatoes twelve pounds in weight, and cornstalks 20 feet high, are some of the figures The price of land ranges from $20 to $100 per acre. At Goshen, a track branches ofi" to the left, on which cars are run seven miles to ViSALiA — the county seat of Tulare county. It contains about 1,600 inhabi- tants, and is situated in the midst of the most fertile land in the State, and on the Kaweah River, The country round about presents to the eye a beautiful appearance. Large oaks cover the plain in every di- 238 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST rection, and orchards, gardens, vineyards, and well-cultivated fields are to be seen on every hand. Visalia is the center of the rich section once known as the "Four Creek Country." The town boasts of a $75,000 court-house, some good stores, gas-works, several big saw-mills, six hotels, three weekly news- papers — the Delta, Times, and Iron Age — one bank, a flouring mill, a normal school, and a number of public schools, and churches of various denominations. Stages run from Visalia to Glenville, 65 miles. From Goshen, Visalia is entirel}^ ob- scured from view by the tall oaks that abound in this section of the country on every side. These oaks are old and ragged, many are fast decaying, and when gone, the country will be nearly bare, as there are few young trees growing to take their places. At Goshen, is the end of the Visalia division of the " Central," and the com- mencement of the Tulare Division of the Southern Pacific — operated under a lease by the " Central " company. Although this is the nominal end of divisions, all changes, usual at such stations, are made 10.5 miles further at Tulare — This is a new town, as it were, built up under the stimulating in- fluences of a railroad point where are lo- cated extensive shops, round house, ware houses, and station buildings, incidental to its being the end of divisions. The town contains about 500 population, and is situ- ated in the midst of a broad plain about 20 miles east of Tulare Lake, and is a thriving town. It is a point from which large amounts of freight arc shipped on wagons, to the adjoining country, and where wool in great quantities, is brought for shipment to San Francisco. The company's shops and grounds at this place — as is the case in some other lo- calities — are surrounded with rows of beau- tiful trees, chief of which is the "blue- gum." These trees, from a distance, give the place more the appearance of grounds surrounding some palatial residence, than where several hundred men are employed manipulating iron. These grounds are also covered with gfeen sward, which is watered when necessary, by long hose con- nected with the works. Soon after leaving Tulare, we cross Deep and Tulare creeks, both narrow streams with steep banks, rich soil, and lined with trees; the land is covered with a thick growth of short grass. Passing the neigborhood of these creeks, the countr}^ seems to suddenly change, and at Tipton — 10.4 miles from Tulare, pre- sents a barren appearance. To the right, left and front, sheep abound, but not a tree or shrub. Five miles beyond Tipton, are groves of eucalyptus trees, immense num- bers of which are on both sides of the road. The lands here, that are irrigated at all, are supplied with windmills. Twelve miles from Tipton comes Alila — ^just after crossing Deer Creek. Tulare Lake, is about seven miles west of this station, and is a body of water cov- ering an area of about 7,000 square miles, is nearly round, or 30 miles long by 25 miles in width, in which fish in great varieties abound, as do ducks, geese, and other water fowl. Owens Lake — another large sheet of water, but not as large as Tulare by about one-fourth — is 78 miles from Alila, in a northeasterly direction. Passing on over White River, 8.3 miles, we come to Delano, a place of a half- dozen buildings, just in the edge of Kern county. The country along here is treeless and not very inviting. From Delano it is 11.8 miles to Poso, and 11.8 miles more to liCrdo — To the southwest, about 40 miles, are located the Buena Vista Oil Works, in a section of country where great quantities of oil are found in holes and ditches in the ground, where it is now waiting for enterprise to sink wells, build tanks for saving and marketing, when it will yield immense returns. This oil region is about eight miles by three in area. Passing on about nine miles, we come to Kern River, which we cross on a long trestle bridge. This river is one of the largest flowing from the Sierras, and even in a dry season, carries a large amount of water. Nuilinier — is the next station reached, 12.4 miles from Lerdo. This is a ver^ busy place of about 250 population, it being the distributing point for a large amount of freight. To the westward, one and a half miles, and connected by "buses" hourly, is Bakerspield — This town is the county seat of Kern county, and contains a popu- ulation of about 800. It is situated at the junction of the two branches of Kern River, has a $35,000 court house, a bank, several hotels, a flouring-mill and two weeklv AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 239 BIRDS-EYE VIEW OF THE LOOP, TEHACHAPI PASS. newspapers, the Courier-Califoniiaii and the Gazette. Kern Lake is 14 miles south of west from Bakerstielcl, and is about seven miles long by four wide. Six miles fur- ther is Buena Vista Lake, some larger. Around these lakes, and Tulare Lake, the land is exceedingly rich. Kern Valley, in which Bakersfield and these lakes are situated, is one of the richest in the State, being composed almost wholly of sedimentary deposits. Vege- tables grow to fabulous proportions, the soil being of the same nature as that in the "Mussel Slough Country" before named. The irrigating canals are very extensive in this country, some over 40 miles in length, with a varied width of from 100 to 275 feet, eight feet deep, costing $100,000. Besides the irrigating canals, there are many farms that are irrigated by wells and wind-mills. There is one ranche, nine miles from Bakersfield, that contains 7,000 acres, on which are two flowing artesian wells, of seven inches bore, one 260 and the other 300 feet deep. From these wells the water rises twelve feet above the surface, and discharges over 80,000 gallons per day. On this ranche there are over 150 miles of canals and irrigating ditches, 32 miles of hog-tight board fence; 4,000 acres are under" cultivation, 3,000 of which are in alfalfa, from which four and six crops a year are cut. Nearer Bakersfield, the same party, Mr. H. P. Livermore, has another large ranche, with 500 acres in alfalfa, and 3,000 in wheat and barley. On these ranches are 8,000 sheep, 4,000 stock cattle, 300 cows, 350 horses, 100 oxen, 70 mules and 1,500 hogs. The same party makes all his own reapers, mowers, harvesters, plows, harrows, cultivators and threshing ma- chines—everything in use on the place, except steam engines. He has one plow, the " Great Western," which is said to be the largest in the world. It weighs some- thing over a ton, and is hauled by 80 oxen, cutting a furrow five feet wide and three feet deep, and moving eight miles a day. Another plow called "Sampson," is used for ditching, and requires 40 mules to work it. Another party in the county has 40,000 sheep, 9,000 acres in alfalfa, and raises 60,000 bushels of grain. Another 'poor fel- low raised, in 1877, 84,000 lbs. of pumpkins and sweet potatoes ; some of the former weighed 210 pounds, and of the latter, some 15^^ lbs. While attending to these little vegetables, he would occasionally 240 ckofutt's new overland tourist look after a small band of sixteen thousand sheep. But enough of this. "We could fill our book with these and many other astonish- ing figures. " Well," you will say, " these California farmers should be contented and happy men." One would think so, but they are not. They are the most inveterate grumblers of any class of people in the world. All Californians will, in the inter- vals between grumbles, express the opinion that there is no place under the blue canopy of heaven so good for a white man to live in as California. Ah, well ! are they cor- rect? Personally, were it necessary, our affirm could be forthcoming. Returning to Summer, twelve miles, brings us to a small place called Pampa, and 7.3 miles more to Caliente — Since leaving Summer, the grade has increased ; the valley has been gradually narrowing by the closing in of the mountain ranges on each side, leaving only a narrow strip of land, Nearing this station, it still more contracts, until a deep canyon is reached, in the mouth of which is located Caliente, surrounded by towering cliffs. There are several stores, one hotel and a large station and freight warehouse at this place. A large amount of freight is re-shipped at this point, on wagons, for the surrounding country. Stages leave this station daily for Havilah, 25 miles ; Kern- ville, 45 miles; fare about 14 cents per mile. These stages carry passengers, mails and express. Tourists should now note the elevations ; Caliente is 1,290 feet above sea level ; within the next 25 miles the train will rise to the summit of Tehachapi Pass, to an altitude of 3,964 feet, an average of over 106 feet to the mile. Within this dis- tance we shall find some of the grandest scenery on the whole line ; will pass through seventeen tunnels, with an aggregate length of 7,683.9 feet, and then "over the LOOP," one of the greatest engineering feats in the world ; feat where a railroad is like a good Roman Catholic — made to cross itself. But here, the difference is in favor of the railroad, as these Californians will always be a l-e-e-tle ahead ; it does its crossing on a run, up grade, toward heaven- [Any design to indicate the route of the good Catholic is disclaimed.] See illustrations on pages 233 and 239. Away up the canyon, the grade of the road can be seen at a number of places where it winds around the points of pro- jecting mountain spurs, from which points we will soon be able to look down upon Caliente. Leaving the station, our route will be found illustrated on page 239. Caliente is at the foot of the mountains, at the ex- treme further end of the dotted line, which indicates the course of the road, and shows its windings, the Loop and the surrounding country, on a flat surface. As we ascend the narrow canyon, the road gradually commences to climb the side of the cliifs on the right, leaving the bed of the canyon far below, on the left. Up, up, around rocky points and the head of small ravines, over high embankments, through deep cuts, and tunnels " One " and " Two," a dis- tance of 5.3 miles from Caliente, we arrive at Bealville — This is a small station named in honor of General Beal, late minister to Austria, who owned 200,000 acres of land in this county. Oaks," cedar and spruce trees are to be seen in the gorges and on the mountain side, where a sufficient soil is left between the rocks and an occasional shrub of the manzanita, along the road. Continuing our climb, the ravines are deeper at every turn ; tunnels No. three, four and five are passed through, each revealing in its turn, new wonders and rapid changes. No. five tunnel is the largest on this '' Pass," after passing which and No, six tunnel, the can- yons on the left become a fearful gorge. Just after emerging from the sixth tun-' nel, by looking away down the canyon, Caliente can be seen, and at the rounding of nearly every mountain spur for some miles further. Continuing our climb, winding around long rocky points and the head of deep ravines, twisting and turning to gain altitude, the scenery is wondrous in its rapid changes. The old Los Angeles and San Francisco wagon road can be seen in places, where it. too, winds around the ^ide of the mountain, and in others, ahmg the little ravines and larger canyons. The opposite mountains now loom up in huge proportions, rocky, peaked and rag- ged, a full thousand feet above our heads, and double that amount above the bottom of the canyon below. Again are passed tunnels seven and'eight ; again we look down from dizzy heights into fearful, fearful chasms. Up a long curve to the right, and we are at a point where the mountains, from ten to twenty miles to the south and westward can be seen, the peaks of many covered with snow. Keene — is reached 8.3 miles from AND TACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 241 Bealville. This station is not an impor- tant one, and trains do not always stop, but pass on, across two bridges in quick suc- cession, many deep gravel-cuts, and then, after curving to the light, we approach the " Loop " and tunnel No. nine. Passing through this tunnel, we start on the grand curve around the " Loop," and soon find our- selves o'Ger the tunnel and in the position of the train as illustrated on page 233. This "Loop" is 340 miles "from San Francisco, is 3,795 feet in length, with an elevation of 2,956 feet at the lower and 3,034 feet at the npper track, making a difference between tracks, of 78 feet. Leaving the " Loop," our train continues to climb and curve, first to the left, then to the right, and after passing through two more tunnels, Nos. 10 and 11, comes to Oerard — a station 5.4 miles from Keene, more in name than fact. Here the old Tehachapi Pass stage road ap- pears. The mountains are not as high above us, but are rough, broken, and ragged, covered in many places with stunted, scrubby pines and cedars. Rolling on, we pass through, in quick succession, tunnels Nos. 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17, be- sides a number of short bridges, and come to more open ground; pass Graceville, once an old stage station — on the right, and 6.4 miles from Gerard arrive at Tehachapi Smiimit— elevation, 3,964 feet — the highest on the road. This station consists of one store, a, hotel, tele- graph office, and half-a-dozen buildings. To the southeast about five miles distant, a marble quarry is reported, of good quality. The station is situated on a high grassy plateau, of a few thousand acres, with-high mountain ranges to the east and west, and although near 4,000 feet in alti- tude the climate is so mild and agree- able that some years the crops are very good, and grazing excellent. Many sheep are to be seen in the valley and on the hills which are covered with fine grass. Leaving the summit, we run along this plateau for a few miles, and then commence a gradual descent towards the Mojava Desert. To the right is a small lake — dry in summer — where salt can be shoveled up by the wagon load. About eight miles from the Summit, the little valley down which we have been rolling, narrows to a few hundred feet with high canyon walls on each side. Cameron— is the first station from Summit, 9.2 miles distant, of little account. 13 Near this station we find the first of the species of cactus, as illustrated on page 243. In this country they are called the Yucca Palm — These trees grow quite large, sometimes attaining a diameter of from two to three feet, and a height of from 40 to 50 feet. They are peculiar to the Mo- java Desert, where they grow in immense numbers, presenting the appearance, at a distance, of an orchard of fruit trees. Everything is said to have its uses, and this cactus, or palm— apparently the most worthless of all things that grow, is being utilized in the manufacture of paper, and with very good results. One mill is al- ready in operation at Ravena, and consid- erable shipments have been made. The suppl}^ of " raw material " is certainly abundant, and if the quality of the paper is as good as reported, the Mojava Desert may be able to show cause wdiy it was created. Leaving Cameron, our train speeds along lively, ana 5.2 miles we come to l^adeau — soon after emerging from the canyon. It is a side-track surrounded by sage-brush, sand hills and cactus. Away to the left are several lakes, dry the greater portion of the year, but having the appear- ance of water at all times, owing to the water being very salt, and leaving a thick deposit on the bed of the lake when dry. From Nadeau, it is 5.6 miles to the end of the Tulare division, at Mojava — (Pronounced Mo-lia-vey.) At times, the " Mojava Zephyr " is any- thing but a gentle zephyr, yet, by using both hands, any person of ordinary strength can keep their hat on. The surroundings of this place are not very beautiful, situ- ated as it is on a desert ; but for its size, it is a busy place. It is a regular eating station where trains stop half an hour, and good meals are served, at the Mojava House, close to the depot — on Main St. The place consists of several stores, one hotel, large station building and freight warehouse, a 15-stall round-house, a repair and machine shop and about a dozen pri- vate residences. The water used at the station comes in pipes from Cameron station, eleven miles north. A large amount of freight is re- shipped from this station on wagons to Darwin, 100 miles, and Independence, 168 miles, in Inyo county — to the northeast — on the east side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Returning, these, wagons are loaded with bullion from the mines. The 242 11 ' CKOFUTT S NKW OVERLAND TOURIST LOS AN&ELES DIVISION. MOJAVA TO LOS ANGELES. E. E. Hewitt, Assistant Sujierintendent. James Campbell, Train Maslei\ TOWARDS SUNRISE. Daily Emigrant and freight. 4:n0 ' 4:2t 4 :5l) 5:80 6 :25 7:15 7:35 8:20 9 :10 9 :30 9:50 10:10 11:15 11:55 a m a m Daily Express, l8t&2dCl's :10* :27 :44 :10 :35 :06 :20 :51 :24 :35 :50 :05 :35 :55 a m p m p m Distance from San F'ncisco :370. .376., .384. .395. .405. .415- .419. .427. .437. .441 . .444. .449., .462., .470., S.\N FRANCISCO TIME. TOWARDS SUNDOWN. STATIONS. Lv ttMOJAVA Ar Gloster Sand Creek Lancaster Alpine Acton tRavena.. Lang . . Newhall Andrews — , S.F. Tunnel tSan Fernando Sepulveda Ar t+LOS ANGELES Lv Altitude. 2751 . .2555.. .2315.. ,2350.. .2823.. .3211.. .2350.. .1681.. .1152.. .1338.. .1469.. .1066.. . 461.. . 265.. Daily Express, lst&2dCrs 6:30 * 6:1 3t 5:54 5:26 4:54 4:14 4:00 3:24 2:48 2:35 2:20 2:05 1:35 1:15 p m p m Daily Emigrant and Ireight. 6:15* 5:50t 5:25 4:40 4:00 3:15 2:55 2:15 1::30 1:10 p m 12:50 10:20 11:15 10:35 ]) m a m t Day Telegraph. J Day and Night Telegraph. * Meals. Note Elevations. Cerro Gordo Freighting Co., who do irtost of this freight hauling, employ 700 head of animals. Stages leave Mojava every alternate day, carrying passengers, mails and express to Darwin, 100 miles ; Cerro Gordo, 125 miles ; Lone Pine, 150 miles, and Independence, 168 miles to the northeast; fare, 14 cents per mile. Mojava is the commencement of the Los Angeles Division. The proposed route of the Southern Pacific railroad — as successor of the rights granted to the old Atlantic and Paciiic Co., to the Colorado River, at the Needles — diverges at this point, and runs due east. The lowest point of the Mojava Plains crossed by the railroad sur- vey, is at the sink of the Mojava River, 133 miles east. Its elevation is 960 feet, the highest point being 3,935 feet, at the summit of Granite Pass. The crossing of the Colorado, at the Needles, is 254 miles east from Mojava. Leaving Mojava, our course is south, over the desert, from which rise great numbers of round buttes ; they are of all sizes, from a half-acre at the base, to several acres; from one hundred to five hundred feet in height. Most of these buttes run to a peak, and are grooved or worn out bv the elements into small ravines, from summit to base, presenting a peculiar appearance. The cactus, or palms, are very numerous. Passing Gloster, 6.6 miles from Mo- java, where there is not even a side-track, and 7.2 miles further, we arrive at ^aiid Creek — where trains seldom stop. To the left, ten miles, is Mirage Lake, which looks like water, but is mostly sand and alkali. (For a descrip- tion of this remarkable phenomena, see page 169.) Soledad Mountain can now be seen on our right, through which our road finds a way, but ichere and how, does not appear. Large numbers of sheep i-ange over these plains at times, and appear to thrive. From Sand Creek, it is eleven miles to Lancaster, a side-track, and 10.9 miles further we come to Alpine — For the last twenty miles the palms have been very numerous, but we shall soon leave them and the desert. Scrub cedar, sand cuts — some very deep — are now in order, while rapidly climbing up to the summit of the Soledad Pass, which we reach four miles from Alpine, crossing them at an elevation of 3,211 feet, and then descend to Actoil — a distance of 9.7 miles from Alpine. This is an unimportant station AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 243 near the head of the infamous Soledad Canyon, known as the "Robbers' Roost." This canyon is a deep gorge, with rugged, towering mountain cliffs rising on each side, in places from 500 to 2,000 feet above the bed of tlie canyon, tlie fronts ofwhicli look as though they had been slashed by the hand of the great Architect, from summit to base, into nar- row, deep ravines, and then left, present- ing as wild, gloomy and dismal gorges as the most vivid imagination can conceive. These, with the dense growth of pines, cedar and shrubs, make the mountains almost impenetrable, and all that the most wary villain could desire. The canyon is about 2^ miles in length, inhabited mostly by Mexicans. It was the headquarters and home of the noted Vasques, and his robber band, who was hung at San Jose, March 19, 1875. Later, a band of a dozen or more raided Caliente, binding and gaging all who came in their way, and after loading their riding ani- mals with all they could carry, returned to this their rendezvous. By a shrewd plan, five of the number were captured, and lodged in jail at Bakersfield, from which they were taken by the citizens and hung without much expense to the county. But with all their devilment, the trains and railroad property have always been secure. At the next station, the brother of this noted chief resides, against whom, as we understand, there stand no accusations. Passing on down, the canyon widens, and Cottonwood, sycamore and a few oaks and willows line the little creek, which ripples over the sands. Mining, to some extent, is carried on by the Mexicans living here, but in a primitive way, using arastras, with water, horse, hand, and, in three cases, steam power. Ravena — is the next station, 3.7 miles from Acton. Here are located a village of several dozen log, sod and stone houses, be- longing to the Mexicans, and the paper mill, before alluded to, as utilizing the yucca palm for making paper. "We M^ere told at this place that "moss agates and grizzly bears abound," but just why the two should be coupled togetiier, we are not informed. About one mile below Ravena, on the left, away up on the side of the mountain, 600 feet above our train, is a huge rock, called George Washington, from the fact that it bears a striking likeness to the " father of his country," who, it seems has left his impress all over his country. Continuing down, the canyon narrows; the blufty walls on each side assume more formidable features, and in fact is the most formidable portion of the can- yon, the rugged spurs shooting out as though they would bar our farther progress. Two of tliese spurs did bar the progress of our way, until tunnels were completed through them, which aggregate 596 feet in length. Timber can be seen on the tops of the mountains, and in the largest of the deep ravines, but inaccessible, from the un- usual ruggedness of its surroundings. Lime-rock abounds and game, both large and small, is very numerous, including the grizzly bear. When we passed this w^ay in January, 1878, Mr. Lang, of Lang's Station, close ahead, had killed one of these bears that weighed 900 pounds, and Lang called it a small one. JLaiig; — is a small station, 8.5 miles be- low Ravena, and about half-a-mile west of where the "last spike" was driven, Sept. 5tli, 1876, that united the line, building from Los Angeles and San Francisco. The bottom, below the station, widens, sand hills and sand beds appear, as well as sheep, on the adjoining hills, which are now lower, with grassy sides ^ and 10.1 miles from Lang, and our train stops at Newhall — a station where are large pens and shutes for loading cattle and sheep. This station is in the midst of a small val- ley, named for a Mr. Newhall, who owns several hundred thousand acres of land in the vicinity, on which range immense num- bers of cattle and sheep. Stages leave this station daily for Ven- tura, 50 miles ; Santa Barbara, 80 miles ; San Louis Obispo, 190 miles ; Paso-Robles Hot Springs, 220, and Soledad, 300 miles, at the end of the Southern Pacific railroad, in Salinas Vallej^, as noted in excursion ISTo. 5. These stages carry passengers, mails and express. We now confront the San Fernando Mountains on the south, which rise up be- fore us, towering to the skies, in one great black solid mass, apparently presenting an impenetrable barrier to our further progress. Such was the case until the engineers of this road, failing to find any way o^erthem, resolved to pierce through them^ which was done, resulting in a tunnel 6,967 feet long, built in a straight line and timbered all the way. These mountains, as stated, are high, rising up out of the valley from 244 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 2,500 to 3,000 feet, but narrow— a huge " hog-back " ridge. Leaving Kewhall, it is 3.6 miles to Andre ^vs — To the west of this station, about four miles, are located several oil wells, in a region said to be very rich in oil. Two refineries have been established at this station, which furnish for shipment about one car-load per day. Live oaks and some wdiite oaks are numerous along the road and on the sides of the low-hills, for the last fifteen miles, making the country look more cheerful than it other- wise would. Leaving Andrews, we soon commence to ascend, passing through deep cuts to the San Fernando Tunnel— This tunnel, as before stated, is 6,967 feet in length, timbered all the way, and is reached from the north up a grade of 116 feet per mile ; grade in tunnel, 37 feet per mile; grade be- yond tunnel — south— for five miles, 106 feet per mile ; elevation of tunnel, 1,469 leet. The view, from the rear end of the car, while passing through the tunnel, is quite an interesting one. The light, on entering the great bore, is large and bright, the smooth rails glisten like burnishecl silver in the sun's rays. Gradually the light lessens in brilliancy; the rails become two long ribbons of silver, sparkling through the impenetrable dark- ness; gradually these lessen, the light fades— and fades, and fades— the entrance is apparently not larger than a pin's head, and then all light is gone and darkness reigns supreme — and still we are not through. It is the history of many a life: the bright hopes of youth expire with age. As we emerge from the tunnel, the valley of San Fernando dawns a bright vision of beauty upon us. Here we enter, as it were, a new world of verdure and fruitfulness — a land literally " flowing with milk and honey." From the tunnel we have de- scended rapidly, 5.2 miles to JSan Fernando— named for the famous old mission of San Fernando, lo- cated about two miles to the right, embow- ered in lovely groves of orange, lemon and olive trees. It is in the middle of the valley of the same name, surrounded by moun- tain ranges. The San Fernando Moun- tains are on the east and north, the Coast Range on the West, and the Sierra Santa Monica on the west and south. The greater portion of the western and central part of the valley is under a high state of cultivation, but the eastern, along where our road is built, is covered with sage- brush, cactus, grease-wood, small cedars and mesquite shrubs. The station is of little account — only a few buildings, a store, hotel, cattle pen and shutes make up the place. Leaving the station, w^e pass groves of planted trees ; those on the right, of the eucalypti species. ISepulveda— is the next station, 12.5 miles south of San Fernando. It is situated on the east bank of Los Angeles River, where passenger trains meet and pass. Continuing along down the valley — which now begins to present an improved appear- ance— 8.6 miles we come to East Los Angeles. LiOS Angeles .Tunction — is sit- uated about one mile east of the city, from which street-cars run regularly; fare, 10 cents or four tickets for 25 certs. The principal hotels, the Pico and St. Charles, charge from $2 to $3 per day ; the United States and Lafayette from $1.50 to $2.00, all of which send buses to the depot, on ar- rival of trains. liOS Angeles ! — Ah, here we are at the " City of the Angels!" Los Angeles is the county seat of Los Angeles county, situated on the Los Angeles River, 24 miles north from the port of San Peclro; but the principal shipping poiiit is at Wilmington, about two miles above San Pedro, at the head of the bay, with which it is connected by railroad 22 miles dis- tant. It is also connected with Santa Monica by rail, 18 miles to the westward, where steamers land from up and down the coast. The city contains a population of about 16,000— has many fine business blocks, three banks, several large, fine hotels, chief of which is the Pico. The churches and schools are all that could be desired, both in numbers and quality. There are four daily, seven weekly, and a number of miscellaneous pulblications. The dailies are : the Star^ Express Herald, and the Republican. Water for irrigation in tne city is sup- plied by Los Angeles River, and by wind- mills. The manufactories are not very numerous, the shops of the Railroad Com- pany being the principal ones. The town is a railroad center, commanding an ex- tensive trade at present, and in the future it fears no rival. It is already connected with Santa Monica, on the west, 18 miles; Wilmington, on the south, 22 miles; Santa Ana, on the southeast, 33 miles; Yuma, on the east, 248 miles, and San Francisco, i AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 245 miles. Los an old town, north, 470 Angeles is having been settled in 1771. It is located at the southern base of the Sierra Santa Monica range on a gradual slope, and is completely- embowered in foliage. The vineyards, in and around the city, are very- numerous ; they- are to be seen on all sides, equaled only by- the number of orange, lemon, and fruit orchards. It is really a city of gardens and groves. Then, as one rides to the westward, or the southward, mag- nificent plantations stretch away as far as the eye can reach. Here is the wealth of the tropics ; here can be seen the orange, lemon, lime, pomegranate, fig, and all kinds of tropical and semi-tropical fruits, at- taining to the greatest perfection ; here will be seen the huge palm-tree, the banana, the beautiful Italian and Monterey cypress, the live oak, pepper, and the eucalyp- tus, as well as the orange and lemon trees in the grounds and parks, gar- dens and lawns, of almost every citizen's residence. One orchard — situated in the heart of the city, the " Wolfkill " — con- tains 100 acres. In this orchard are 2,600 orange trees, 1,000 lime, and 1,800 lemon trees; besides, there are adjoining 100 acres in vineyard. But why particularize ? Look where you will, and you will see vineyards and orchards laden with luscious fruits, and will be ready to exclaim: "Why, oh, why was 'mother Eve' driven out?" Leaving Los cars on the Los Angeles and Independence Kail- road— under the management of the '' Central " Company, of which W. J. L. Moulton is Assistant Superintendent, and speed away to the westward. The first few miles is through the edge of the city, and then past a succession of vineyards, yucca palm of mojava desert. See page 241. Angeles, we will take the orange and fruit orchards, nurseries and groves of planted trees. Then come broad fields and pretty little farm-houses; then through a succession of deep sand cuts, and the broad ocean appears, and then ll^anta Monica— called by some the " Long Branch of the Pacific Coast." It is certainly a beautiful location, and if it does not attain the same popularity as its namesake, on the Jersey shore, it will not be for lack of natural advantages. Its location is one of surpassing loveliness — in front the Pacific Ocean ; in the back- ground the noble range of the Sierra Madre. Far out to the seaward looms up mistily the island of Catalina. The facili- ties for bathing could hardly be better. The beach is fine, the sand hard and smooth, and the slope gradual, with no terrors of undertow to appal timid swim- mers. The place is protected from cold winds by a prominent head-land, and the climate is very equable. 246 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND 'RIST TOUK The following table shows the mean tem- perature of January and July in Califor- nia and other States and countries, taken from reliable sources : Place. San Francisco.. Monterey Santa Barbara . . Los Angelee ... Santa Monica. .. San Diego Sacramento Humboldt Bay.. Sonoma Vallejo Fort Yuma Cincinnati New York New Orleans Naples Honolulu Mexico London Bordeaux Mentone Marseilles Genoa Jan'y July. Differ- 1 ence. Deg'e Dege Degre 49 8 52 5 6 54 7 17 5C 7) 23 52 69 17 51 72 21 45 73 28 40 58 18 45 66 21 48 67 19 56 92 36 30 74 44 31 77 42 55 82 27 46 76 30 71 78 7 52 65 13 37 62 25 41 73 32 40 73 33 43 75 32 46 77 31 1 Latitude Deg, 37 36 34 34 34 32 38 40 38 38 32 39 40 29 40 21 19 51 44 43 43 44 mm. 48 36 24 04 02 41 34 44 IS 05 43 06 37 57 52 16 26 29 .50 41 . 17 24 It will be seen by referring to the above table that Southern California possesses a climate unexcelled in equability by any portion of the world, and of the happiest medium between the extremes of heat and cold, Santa Monica has these advantages of temperature in a special degree, the air being modified by the ocean to a point most agreeable and invigorating, both to the pleasure-seeker and the invalid. The bathing house, situated on the beach, about fifty feet above the water, is the finest on the coast. It is a large building supplied with baths of all kinds, where the bathers have within reach, faucets by which a supply of either fresh or salt water, hot or cold, can be instantly obtained by the effort of turning them on. Here, too, are steam, swimming, and plunge baths, be- sides the ordinary ocean baths, accommo- dations for which ample provision is made. Santa Monica was first laid out as a town in lb75, and in two years attained a popu- lation of 800. It has some good stores, and quite a number of good hotels, chief of which are the Santa Monica Hotel, and Ocean House ; the latter has accommoda- tions for about 50 guests, and the former for 125. These houses are so situated as to command a most extensive view. Their charges are from $12 to $18 per week. Santa Monica has its newspaper — «the Out- look; an enterprising weekly, edited and published by L. F. Fisher, Esq., who is thor- oughly alive to the advantages of the town. Point Dumas, a prominent head-land to the northwest, is 13 miles distant. Point Vincent, to the southwest, is 20 miles distant. Santa Rosa Island, west, is 91 miles distant; Santa Barbara Island, south of west, is 25 miles distant ; San Nicholas Island, 37 miles in the same direction, and Santa Catalina Island, south, is about 40 miles distant. These islands are a great protection to Santa Monica from the wrath of old Pacific, when he becomes excited. The wharf at the end of the railroad is built out into the bay, to deep water, where steamers stop regularly on their trips up and down the coast. In the range of the mountains on the north, game of many varieties can be found, and in the lagoons south of the town, ducks, geese, snipe, curlews, and other varieties of game are abundant. The drives are very fine, being along the beach for many miles, and then, on the high plateau 500 feet above, extending for many miles, afibrding a most extended view ; or, up to the natural springs on the side of the mountain, which furnish the town with water, bubbling up like a fountain, and is caught in a large basin or pond, for city use. A popular excursion is up Santa Mo- nica Canyon to Manville Glen — a wild, rugged rnountain-place covered with old forest trees, down which ripples one of the neatest little brooks imaginable. The point of the mountain above has become a very popular camping giound, where camps are made, and parties spend months in rambling over the mountains and en- joying the ocean baths, etc. There are some beautiful country resi- dences about Santa Monica, among which is one of Senator Jones, of Nevada. Returning to Los Angeles, we take the Wilmington Division — and start di- rectly south through a succession of vine- yards, gardens, orange and fruit orchards, to Florence, six miles from Los Angeles. At this station the track of the San Diego Division branches ofl" to the left. But we ccmtinue south, through broad, well-culti- vated fields, where the good eftects of irri- gation are shown, by large crops of vege- tables, which abound in the section we are now traversing. Gradually the rich soil gives place to alkaline and salt flats, and sloughs, with occasionally a few bands of sheep on the more elevated lands. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 247 About two miles before reaching Wil- mington, we pass, on the right, embowered in trees, the old headquarters of the Mili- tary Department, of Southern California and Arizona, abandoned in 1870. When the Government had no further use for the jn-operty it was sold, and is now used by the Protestants, and called Wilson's College. Wilmmgton contains a population of about 500, most of whom are engaged in the shipping interests. At the long wharf are great warehouses, beside which, vessels drawing twelve feet of water, can lay and load and unload from and into the cars of the railroad, which run the whole length of the wharf. Vessels drawing 15 feet of water can cross the bar, two miles below, but are unable to reach the wharf, and are unloaded two miles below Inside the bar is a ship channel, per- fectly sheltered, several miles in length with a width of from 400 to 500 feet, and a depth, at low tide, of from 20 to 25 feet shoaling at its head to 12 feet. ' The Government has expended over half a million of dollars to improve the harbor at this place; the breakwater is 6,700 feet long, and when completed, it will be of incalculable advantage to the people of this section of country. Wilmington is a point where immense quantities of ties and redwood lumber are landed from the Humboldt Bay country 200 miles north of San Francisco, on the coast, and also where are landed large quantities of coal from the Liverpool ves- sels that come here to load with grain. The coal is brought for ballast, more than for profit. Rattlesnake Island is in front of the har- bor—sand principally San Pedro Point IS two miles south, and Point Fermin, around that point to the west, reached by wagon-road around the beach or over the bluUs six miles distant, Deadman's Island is a small,isolated rocky peak, where commences the breakwater improvement below Point Pedro. Fermin Point is on the most prominent headland on the west, surmounted with a light of the first order, [which is kept by two ladies.] Near this point, in stone, is the subject of our illustration, below called San Pedro's Wife or the " Woman OF THE Period." The distance from Wilmington by steamer to San Francisco is 387 miles ; to San Diego, 95 miles; to Santa Catalina Island, 20 miles. This Island is owned by the Lick estate, is 35 miles long and ten wide, on which are some gold mines, and great numbers of sheep and goats. SAN Pedro's wife or, the woman of the period. 248 OFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST The Island San Clemente is 30 miles further, a long, narrow strip of land, on which there is no water, where range thousands of sheep and goats, which seem to thrive better than on Santa Catalina Island, where water is abundant. Returning again to Los Angeles, we start over the Han I>iego Division. Leaving Los Angeles, the course is the same as over the Wilmington route to Florence, six miles south, where our route turns to the left. Leaving Florence, we cross the Los Angeles River, along which are some broad, rich bottom lands, passing large groves of eucalyptus trees, and 5.5 further come to Downey — This is a thrifty town of agriculturalists, about 500 in number, with some good buildings. The Central Hotel is the principal hotel. The country is flat, and vineyards and orange orchards are to be seen at different places, over which the waters of San Gabriel River are con- ducted in numerous canals and ditches Leaving the station, we soon cross San Gabriel River, note the existence of many sycamore trees, some oaks and many " Gum-trees," and four miles are at NoKWALK — This is a new station, ]n the center of a broad fertile valley, with only the smaller portion under cultivation Con- tinuing on, over a grassy plain, where are a few trees, and a few alkali beds, we pass Costa, 6.3 miles from Norwalk, and roll along through an improving country The La Puente Hills are on our left, beyond which rise the San Gabriel Mountains, From Costa it is 3.6 miles to Anaheim — Here we are at a live town of 1,500 population, which, from the car win- dows, presents a beautiful appearance, with its long rows of trees and beautiful fields. A run through the town will reveal the fact that it contains many fine buildings, some of which are devoted to merchandis- ing, besides good churches, fine schools, two good hotels — the Planters and the Anaheim, and one newspaper— the Gazette. The town is embowered in foliage; tall poplar trees, cypress, eucalyptus, orange, pepper, castor bean, palm and many other trees are among the number seen everywhere. Here we find extensive irrigating canals and a complete net-work of ditches, con- ducting the water through llie streets and over the grounds in all directions, A great number of the private residences' are painted white, (not a very common thing in California,) and look very cheerful. Leaving Anaheim, we cross a sandy bot- tom, and then Santa Anna River, over a long bridge, pass Orange, a small hamlet on the left— where is a grove of planted trees — and 4.9 miles from Anahiem, and two miles farther come to Santa Ana — This town is 33.3 miles southeast of Los Angeles, and about half a mile west of the depot, where is now the end of the road, and where a town is being laid off, called East Santa Ana. Santa Ana is situated about one and half miles south of Santa Anna River, and like Ana- heim, is embowered in trees and sur- rounded by vineyards, orchards and the best of land, under a high state of cultiva- tion. Tliere are some large stores in the town and good brick buildings, several fine churches, good schools, three hotels — chief of which IS the Santa Ana Hotel — one daily and two weekly newspapers; the JVews and the Times are weekly, and the Free Lance is a small, 111)6 daily. Newport Landing is eight miles west of Santa Ana, where most of the steamers call, on their way up and down the coast. A good wagon road leads from Santa Ana to the Landing, and also extends eastward to San Bernardino, 40 miles distant. The road was built by the counties of Los Angeles and San Bernardino. The new Black Star coal mines are sit- uated about twelve miles northeast, and are said to be extensive and the coal of good quality. To the east is the high range of the Sierra De Santa Anna Mountains, on the eastern slope of which are located the Temeseal Tin mines. Some of the lands surrounding Santa Ana and to the south and west for many miles, called "safe lands," will raise a good crop without irrigating, but the greater portion requires the water — to supply which a company is now engaged building a canal to take the waters of the Santa Anna River away to the eastward. The canal will be 18 miles long, and will furnish ample water for 20,000 acres of land. Stages leave Santa Ana daily for San Juan Capistrano, southeast 24 miles; fare $2.50; San Louis Rey, 65 miles ; fare, |5.00 ; also to San Diego, 100 miles, and all inter- mediate points. San Diego — As this is reached from Santa Ana, the nearest point by rail and stage, it seems to be the proper place for a short description of the town. San Diego 248 The furthe wliicl] thousf to thi I si an c Rel start c Lea same Florei turns 1 Lea- Angel rich b eucaly Do agricu some is the and vi be see the Wi ducted Lea^ Gabri( sycam " Gum Noi center the sm tinuiU; a few 1 Costa along La Pu M^hich From Ana 1,500 f dows, its Ion A run fact th some c ing, be good h and on is emb cypres bean, among Hen and a ductin over tl: numbe STATE CAPITOL C IFORNIA. (See Annex No. 15.) (10.) AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 249 was first settled by the Jesuit missionaries, in 1769, and is the oldest town in the State. It is a port of entry, and the county seat of San Diego county. It is situated on San Diego Bay, which, for its size, is the most sheltered, most secure and finest harbor in the world. The bay is 13 miles long and two miles wide, with never less than 30 feet of water at low tide, and a good, sandy bot- tom. By act of Congress, it is the western terminus of the Texas & Pacific railroad, but when that road will be built, if ever, is a problem, the solution of which, all the citizens of San Diego, about 5,000 in num- ber, are exceedingly anxious to have demonstrated, and there is little question but what they would all elect to have it built without delay. The city is connected ])y steamer with San Francisco, 456 miles north, and by stage to all inland towns. It is 14 miles north of the dividing line be- tween Upper and Lower California, and is destined to make a city of great importance. Tropical fruit of every variety is produced in the county, and the climate is one of the finest in the world, the thermometer never falling below 40 deg. in the winter, or rising above 80 deg. in the summer. The country is well timbered and well watered, producing large crops of all kinds of grain, fruit and vegetables. Gold, silver and tin ores have recently been discovered, which promise at this time to be very extensive and profitable. Several quartz mills have been erected. Two weekly papers are pub- lished at San Diego — the World and Union. San Juan Capistkano, is a quiet, sleepy, conservative old town, twenty-four miles from Santa Ana, situated in the center of a beautiful little valley, hemmed in on three sides, in a variegated frame-work of emerald hills, witli the broad Pacific Ocean on the west, gleaming like a mirror at mid-day, and glowing like a floor of burnished gold at sunset: Here is located the old mission, which gave its name to the town. It was founded in 1776, and is situated on an eminence, commanding a view of the surrounding country, with ex- tensive orchards of orange, lemon, olive and other trees, planted nearly 100 years ago, which continue to bear abundantly. To the south of the town is the Rancho Boca de la Playa, of 7,000 acres ; Eancho Keguil, of 12,000 acres, and the Rancho Mission Viejo, on the east, of 46,000 acres. These ranchos include a great deal of good agricul- tural land, but now the greater portion is used for pasturage. Gospel Swamp — This singularly pro- ductive region is situated a few miles north of west from Santa Ana, the soil of which is very similar to that about the " Mussel Slough" and Lake Tulare, heretofore noted. The soil is wholly composed of the richest sedimentary deposit, the decomposition of vegetable matter that has been going on since the creation of the world. In this section, all kinds of vegetables attain im- mense proportions, so large that we dare not give the figures. This is the pumpkin's home. Pumpkins weighing 320 to 340 lbs. are not uncommon in this region. A single vine produced in 1877, 1,400 lbs. of pumpkins without any further care than putting the seed in the ground — and it was a poor year for pumpkins at that. Corn is the princi- pal crop, in gathering which they find much difficulty, owing to the height of the stalks. If some enterprising Yankee would invent a portable elevator with a graduated seat and revolving buckets for holding the ears of corn, he could find in this section an extensive field in which to operate. Returning once more to Los Angeles, and for the last time, we take our old seat, and start for Sunrise, at Yuma. [See Time Table, next page.] Leaving Los Angeles, our course is south about one mile— on the track we have been over several times — then to the left, and finally due east, crossing the Los Angeles River, just beyond which is the 80-acre vineyard of Mr. Sabichi, and follow up a little valley. On the right are low, rolling grass-covered hills, around which are many little cottages nestling- cosily beneath a wreath of foliage, consist- ing of orange and other fruit-trees. We are now on an ascending grade, and shall continue to be, for the next 80 miles. To the left, about four miles, is located Pasadena — (Key of the Valley) — quite commonly known as the " Indiana Coloijy," a new and beautiful settlement northeast from Los Angeles about seven miles, and three miles from the old mission of San Gabriel. Five 3/^ears ago this position was occupied only by the one adobe house of a Spaniard, Garfias, who once owned the ranclie. A company of eastern men, largely from Indiana, purchased the tract, with an abundant water privilege arising in the Arroyo Seco Canyon, and nearly every one of the sub-divided tracts of 7^, 15 or 30 acres each was taken within a year by actual settlers, and these, almost without 250 crofutt's new overland tourist YUMA DIVISION. From Los Angeles to Yuma. E. E. Hewitt, Asst. Supt. TOWARDS S U N BI 8 E . a d 2^ Dailv m fi O oi Express «^ Mixed. r^% .470 2:25 pin 3:10 .479 3:20 .482 3:30 .483 4:00 * .490 4:45 •500 5:05 .503 5:40* .513 6::i0 t .528 7:30* .5:31 8:25* .542 9:10* .551 9:32* .557 10:05 .563 10:40* .571 11 :07 * .579 12:15* am .600 12:55 .613 1:50 .630 2:27 * .641 3:30 * .659 3:50 * .665 4:10 * .671 4:50 * .082 5:40 * .696 6:25 * ..10 7:00 a m ..19 LOS ANGELES TIME. STATIONS. Lv XIj. Angeles. Ar . yan Gabriel. . ...Savanna. .. ifMonte Paente . .^Spadra ..:j:Pomona . Cucamonga. . . ..^Colton Mound City. .. ..El Casco. ... San Gorgonio. . . . .Banning . .JCabazon White Water. . . .Seven Palms. . . .Indio. .Walters. . .Dos Palmas ..Frink's Spring.. .Flowing Well.. , Tortuga .Mammoth Tank. ..Mesquite . . . Cactus .Pilot Knob.... Ar...j:Yuma. Lv TOWARDS SUNDOWN « I>aily % Express 265 400 .266 .;323 .706 .856 .952 .965 1055 1874 2592 1779 1126 .584 20 belV 135 bel'w 253 bel'w 260 bel'w 45 bel'w .183 .257 .294 .396 .285 .123 Mixed. :15 :40 :30 :25 :00 * :30 :20 :50 * :.35 t :25 * :35 * :00 * :30* :00 :22 * :45 * a m 1:35 * :55 a m :50 :05 * :00 * 9:40 * 9:20 * 8:40 * 7:50* 7:05 * 6:30 p m * Trains stop only on signal, t Meals. % Day Telegraph. Note Elevation and Depressions. exception, eastern families of the highest class and of comfortable means. Young orange orchards, j ust commencing to bear, now form the principal feature of the town ; its' abundant mountain water is distributed to hydrants, bath-rooms and fountains in and about each house ; the dry-bed of the Arroyo, on its western edge, furnishes abundant wood ; the Sierra Madra or San Fernando range bounds and guards its northern side, and its site overlooks the whole San Gabriel Valley. The man that sat down in a " reserved seat," occupied by a wasp, is now standing up more than he was. The Lake Vineyard Association has more recently opened up a line tract, bor- dering Pasadena on the east, and the two settlements, now blending into one, have some seventy houses, many of them very handsome, a Presbj^terian and a Methodist church, two school-houses, stores, shops and a daily mail. Not alone those who have their pretty homes and orange groves there think it the most desirable of all California's delightful spots, but unpreju- diced travelers, who have seen the whole, acknowledge that here, indeed, as its Spanish name asserts, is the " key of the valley " and that valley the far-famed and Eden like San Gabriel. In visiting the orange groves and old Mission Church of this locality it will more than pay to turn aside the two or three miles necessary in order to see Pasadena and Lake Vineyard. To the right, before reaching the next station, several huge palm trees can be seen, like those shown on the foreground of our illustration, on page 256. They are the /a?i palm, great numbers of which are to be seen on our route hereafter. Passing up through the little valley, 9.2 miles from Los Angeles, we come to !$an Gabriel— The station is on a broad plateau gently sloping from the mountains on the left. Far to the right, away down on the San Gabriel River, em- bowered in all kinds of fruit trees, and sur- rounded by vineyards, is the old, Old San Gabriel Mission, founded Sept. 8th, 1771. All the old missions in California — twenty- one in number — were founded by members of the Order of San Francisco, who were sent out by the college of San Fernando, in the City ot Mexico, who were of the order of Franciscan Friars. The orange orchard at the Mission was \\\e first planted, as the Mission was the first founded in California by the old Padres. Some of the trees are very large, and continue to bear the best of fruit. The " Woltkill " orchard in Los Angeles is the next in age, and the second in size. To the north of this station, two miles distant, is situated the Largest Orange Orchakd in Cali- fornia — It is owned by L. J. Rose, Esq., and contains 500 acres. In this orchard are orange trees of all sizes, loaded with fruit the year round. Besides oranges, great numbers of lemon, lime, almond, English walnut, and many other varieties of fruits and nuts, are raised here to the greatest perfection. Pomegranates, 5,000 in AND PACIFIC COAST GTHDE. 251 number, are growing here, planted by Gen. Stoneman. The town of San Gabriel is located about one and a half miles north of the station, and is completely embowered in foliage, among which are all the varieties of orna- mental trees, fruit trees, vines, and flowers, grown on the Pacific Coast, the citizens seemingly having taken great pains, to procure some of every kind of tree and shrub, with which to beautify their other- wise beautiful town. We have referred to the old, Old Mis- sion, now we will refer to the Old Mission Church, which is located close on our left, just before reaching this station. It is in a dilapidated condition, but the bells are still hanging in plain view from the cars, which were wont to call the faithful to their devotions, long before the "blarsted Yankees" 'invaded the country. The Sierra Madre Villa is a finely ap- pointed hotel, situated about three miles from the station, away up on the foot-hills 1,800 feet above the level of the sea. It is in a most beautiful location, overlooking the whole valley of Los Augeles, Santa Monica and Wilmington, with thousands of acres in orange and fruit orchards, and in vineyards, in the foreground, and in the rear the towering mountains. From springs in these mountains the sparkling waters are conducted in pipes, and com- pelled to do duty in the fountains in front of the Villa, in every room in the house, and for irrigating 3,000 orange, lemon, and other fruit trees adjoining the hotel. This is a lovely place to sojourn — if not forever, certainly for a season. At this Villa is the best of accommodation for about 50 guests, at charges from $12 to $15 per week. Close to the station, on the left, the tour- ist will find a variety of cactus not hereto- fore seen on this route. There are over two hundred varieties — so we are told — of these cactus plants. The ones at this station grow about ten feet high, and are of the pad species, i. e., they grow, com- mencing at the ground, in a succession of great pads, from eight inches in width to filteeu inches in length, and from one to three inches in thickness. These pads are covered with sharp thorns, and grow one upon the other, connected by a tough stem, round and about two inches in diameter. These cacti bear a kind of fruit of a pleasant flavor, which is used principally by the Indians or Spanish-Mexican resi- dents. From San Gabriel, we continue up the plateau, with the valley of San Gabriel River on the right, 2.5 miles to Havanna — where are well-cultivated fields, groves and vineyards. Passing on 1.4 miles further is Monte — This is a thriving town of several hundred families in the most pro- ductive portion of San Gabriel Valley. Here corn and hogs are the staples, and hog and hominy the diet. The settlers raise immense fields of corn, and feed great numbers of hogs for market — in fact, this is the most Jiogish section yet visited, but we suppose the Monte men would bristle up if they were told so. ' Passing on, more to the southward, we soon cross San Gabriel River, which here has a broad, sandy bed. Sheep are raised in great numbers in this and the section of country traversed for the next 50 miles. Pliente — is the next station, 6.2 miles from Monte, where trains only stop on signal. It is situated on the east bank of San Jose Creek, beyond which and the west is the La Puente Hills. Most of the bottom land is fenced and cultivated, the settlers being mostly Spanish or Mexicans. Coursing around to the left, up San Jose Creek, along which will be found many Mexican houses and herds of sheep, ten miles brings our train to ^padra — elevation 706 feet. This is a smau place of a score or more of dwell- ings, several stores, and one hotel, and is the home of an old Missouri gentleman, familiarly called Uncle Billy Rubottom, whose house is in a grove just opposite the station on the right, a few hundred yards from the depot. He has lived here near 30 years, and keeps "open house" for all his friends, in real old Southern style. He can often be seen at the depot mounted on his mustang, under a sombrero, something smaller than a circus tent, and as happy as a bevy of New England girls would be in a Los Augeles orange orchard. Passing on up the creek, which is gradually dwindling, beyond which are a succession of buttes, or low, grass-covered hills, 3.5 miles brings us to Pomona — This is a promising little town of about 600, with some good build- ings. Garcy avenue — the principal one — is planted on each side, with Monterey cypress and eucalyptus trees, and presents a "beautiful appearance. Four artesian wells supply the town with water, and for irrigating purposes, these wells range 252 crofutt's new overland to from 26 to 65 feet in depth, and flow an immense amount of water, which is as pure as crystal. A reservoir holding 3,300,000 gallons is kept full as a reserve at all times. Here, too, we find many orchards of orange, lemon, fig, and fruit trees. From Pomona it is 9.5 miles to the side-track and signal station of Ciicaiiioiiga — elevation, 952 feet. Two and a half miles north is the Cuca- monga Ranche, celebrated for its wines. To the south, ten miles, is Rincon Settle- ment, a rich agricultural region, under a most complete system of irrigation, the water being supplied by the Santa Anna River, which carries a large volume of water at all seasons. A run of 15.2 miles through a section of country where are a few good ranches and some sheep, and we come to Colton — This place was named for the Vice-President of the Southern Pacific, and is a regular eating station for trains from the East and West. The town is not a very large one at present — about 200 per- sons will be the full number — yet it is quite a busy station, as it is the nearest station to San Bernardino, on the east, and River- side on the southwest. The Colton and the Trans-Continental are the principal hotels. Meals are good at either, and cost 50 cents. Colton has a newspaper — the Semi-Tropic, that makes its bow weekly. The Railroad Company have erected a good station building and large freight houses. Stages leave on arrival of trains for San Bernardino, four miles east; fare, 50 cents ; to Riverside, eight miles southwest, fare, 75 cents. The Riverside Colony — has 8,000 acres of the best of agricultural land, all of which is under irrigating ditches, and is in a very thriving condition. San Bernardino — four miles east, is the county seat of San Bernardino county, the largest in the State, 01 miles east of Los Angeles. It was settled by a colony of Mormons in 1847, and the town laid out in the same manner as Salt Lake City, with water running through all the principal streets from a never-failing supply obtained from numerous springs and creeks in and coming down from the San Bernardino Mountains on the east, close to the base of which the town is located. All the Mor- mons now living there are " Josephites," Brigham, some years since, having called home to Salt Lake all who were devoted to him. The town contains a population of about 6,000, most of \/hom are engaged in fruit raising and agricultural pursuits. Fruit trees of all kinds, with vineyards, gardens and groves, are the rule, and, alto- gether, it is a very beautiful town. San Bernardino is on the old trail, through the Cajou Pass, to the mining regions of Nevada and Arizona, now of little use. The valley of San Bernardino contains 36,000 acres. Crops of all kinds grow in this valley. Much of the land produces two crops a year — barley for the first, and corn for the second; of the former, fifty bushels to the acre is the av- erage yield, and of the latter, from fifty to sixty bushels. Of alfalfa, from five to six crops a year are grown. Six miles north of San Bernardino is Waterman's Hot Springs. These springs are said to be almost a sure cure for the rheumatism ; they are- 700 feet above the valley, and 1,800 above sea level. Near are the San Bernardino Mountains, the most prominent peak of which to the eastward is 8,750 feet above sea level. Returning to Colton, another engine is attached to our train, and we proceed to climb the San Gorgonio Pass ; so we bid adieu to the orange groves, the beautiful fruit orchards, the luscious vineyards, and the glorious climate of Los Angeles county, as we shall see no more of those attrac- tions on this trip. " Fare-thee-well, and if forever, still, forever fare-thee-well." Leaving Colton, we cross Santa Anna River, and 3.4 miles from Colton come to Mound City, a signal station, with an elevation of 1,055 feet. The road now runs up a narrow canyon with low hills on each side. Sheep are the only things of life now noticeable. Eleven miles further comes El Caseo — another signal station, situated in a ravine extending to the Pass. Up this ravine tlie average grade is 80 feet to the mile; elevation, 1,874 feet. We are now in a section where large quantities of peaches are raised. Continuing up the mountain 8.5 miles brings us to the Summit of the Pass, 2,592 feet, at San Gorj^oiiio — There are some good agricultural lands near, when irri- gated, and a scheme is on foot to bring the water from the mountains to the northeast, twelve miles distant, for that purpose. From this station it is down grade for AND TACIFIC COAST GUIDE 253 6.2 miles tD Banning, a signal station, and 5.7 miles more brings us to Cabazoii (pronounced Cabb-a-zone), which means "Big Head," named for a tribe of Indians who live in this country; elevation, 1,779 feet. AVe are now in the Coahulian Valley. To Ihe right are the San Jacinto Mountains, covered with timber. From Cabazon it is 8.5 miles to White Water, an unimportant signal station, 1,126 feet altitude, where we enter the cactus and desert country, and from which station it is 7.5 miles to {Seven Palms — elevation 584 feet. This station was named for seven large palm trees, situated about one mile north of the station. They are from 40 to 60 feet in height, with very large, spreading tops. The water at this station is the first and best on the west side of the desert, and in the days when emigrants traveled this route with teams, it was one of the points looked forward to with much pleasure. From this station to DosPalmas, a little over 50 miles, the palm trees are abundant, otherwise the route for the next 18 miles is a " howling wilderness." Indio — is 20.8 miles from Seven Palms, with, a depression of just twenty feet helow sea level. The palm trees along here are many of them 70 feet in height. When we commenced to descend below the sea level, three miles before reaching Indio, we left the sand-belt and entered a region more adapted for agricultural purposes, strange as it may seem. The cactus grows luxu- riantly, and the mesquite shrub and palms cover the face of the land. From this point we descend lower and lower at every revolution of the wheels, down, down under the sea. Methinks we can see the huge ships sailing over our heads, and many of the leviathans of the deep, with an eye cast wistfully down upon us ; then we think of Jonah, and wonder if we will come out as he did; then, along comes the freebooter, Mr. Shark, and appears to be taking our measure with a knowing wink of his left fin — he rises to the surface as though to get a fresh breath and a better start for a grand dive, looking as hungry as a New York landlord, as enterprising as a Chicago drummer and as "cheeky " as some of the literary thieves who pirate inforination from our book, without giving credit. In some points of the depression, where we first enter it, three miles north of Indio, fresh water can be obtained by sinking from twelve to sixteen feet. Here, vegeta- tion is'^very luxuriant ; mesquite, iron-wood, arrow- wood, grease-wood, sage and other woods and shrubs abound. Further to the south, from Walters to Flowing Wells, a distance of over 40 miles, the country is completely barren. Through this section, the water obtained by diggmg is very salt. The beach surrounding this depression is 40 feet above high water; the lines are the same noticeable around any salt beach, the pebbles laying in rows, away around the diflerent water-lines, as though left but yesterday by the receding waters. Marine and fresh water shells are numerous, indi- cating a fresh water lake here, subsequent to its being a part of the ocean. Waiters — is 13.3 miles from Indio, where passenger trains meet and pass. At this point we are 135 feet helow the level of the sea, and still going down. Ten miles further and we are 206 feet helow ; gradually we ascend, and at the next station, 17.4 miles from Walters, are at l>os Palmas— only 253 feet below. A " buck-board stage " leaves here every alternate day, on the arrival of trains, car- rying passengers, mails and express, for Eherenburg, 108 miles; Eherenburg to Wickenburg, 128 miles; Wickenburg to Prescott, 65 miles ; fare averages 16 cents per mile. ■ From Dos Palmas, desolation reigns supreme, and 10.9 miles brings us to Fink's (Springs — Here we are seven feet lower than at DosPalmas, being 260 feet below ; a little further it will be 262 feet when we commence to rise. Five miles south, is twenty-five square miles of mud springs. The first is about 100 yards east of the road, and is cold. Then to the right, from one to six miles, are many springs, both hot and cold. Some are 200 feet ' in diameter, boiling up as "though in a huge caldron, just on a level with the ground. Others are smaller, cone- shaped, rising in some cases 25 feet from the ground, a kind of miniature volcanoes. The mud in these springs is much the same consistency as ordinary mush, bubbling up as in a pot, over a slow tire. The smell, coupled with an occasional rumbling sound, reminds one of a region of which our modern teachers deny the existence. The railroad track does not cross this depression in the lowest place, as an area west from Dos Palmas is twelve and a half feet lower. This has been called a Vol- canic country. There are no signs that would indicate it ever to have been dis- 254 crofutt's NE\\' OVERLAND TOURIST tur)>ed by volcanic eruptions, except the presence of the mud springs ; on tlie con- trary, most of the rocks surrounding this basin for tifty miles are granite, which is unusual in a volcanic section of country. What iew rocks there are here, that are not granite, show no appearance of volcanic matter. Spurs of SanBernardino Mountains have been on our left, up to this point, after which they dwindle to small, isolated sand hills, here and there. Flowing Well — is the next station, 17.7 miles from Fink's Springs. We have risen, so that we are now only 45 feet ielow sea level. At this station the Railroad Company sank an artesian well 160 feet deep, and got an abundance of water, through a six-inch pipe, but it was too salt for use. Six miles further, we pass Tortuga, a sig- nal station, 183 feet altitude, and 0.1 miles further come to Maiumotli Tank— so named from a natural water tank in the granite rocks on the left, five miles distant, which holds 10,000 gallons, filled by rains, and nearly always has water in it. It is said there are several hundred varieties of cactus on this desert, and we are ready to admit the statement without hunting further proof than what can be seen from the car window. They are here, of all sizes, shape and form. Eleven miles further, we come to another signal station called Mesquite, so named because there is no mesquite near or in the immediate vicinity. Next comes— 13.8 miles — Cactus —elevation, 390 feet, named for a variety of cactus called " ocotilla," which grows in great numbers, near. To the east, from this station, can be seen Chimney Peak — a conglomerate rock — a huge cone, 100 feet in diameter, which rises from the summit of some low hills, 700 feet in height, beyond which, 40 miles away, can be seen the Castle Dome Moun- tains. They are on the east side of the* Colorado River, from the summit of which rises Castle Dome, a granite column, 500 feet above the mountain range, which pre- sents the appearance of a monster, square, flat-roofed building, but which, in reality, is a long, narrow column, when viewed from a point to the southward of the Dome. Mesquite, sage and grease-wood shrubs are now to be seen on all sides. Directly ahead is a tall, round butte, called Pilot Knob, on the east side of which are located some lead mines. Passing on 13.0 miles, we come to a signal station, called Pilot Knob. Here our course changes a little more to the eastward, and we soon come in view of the Colorado River, with a wide, sand}^ bottom covered with willows and mesquite. From Pilot Knob it is 9.4 miles to Yuma, about five of which brings to us the first view of the river, and the next four to the west end of the bridge. To the left, before crossing the bridge, is Fort Yuma, a Government post, occupied by about one dozen ': boys in blue." It is on a high butte, overlooking the surround- ing country. To the right, on the opposite side of the river, on a high bluft", is located the Quartermaster's Department. Cross- ing the bridge, which has a draw for river boats, and through a deep cut, we are at the end of the road, in Arizona, and at Yuma City — This is unlike any city we have heretofore visited. It con- tains a population of about 1,500, one- fifili of whom are Americans, the balance Spanish, Mexicans, and natives — Indians. The buildings are all one story, high, made of sod, adobe, or sun-dried brick, the walls being from two to four feet thick, with flat roofs. The roofs are made by a layer of poles, covered with willows, some- times a covering of cloth, or rawhide be- neath them, and then covered with dirt to a thickness of from one to two feet. On all sides of these houses verandas project from ten to twenty feet, built of poles, like the roof, some with dirt, others with only the brush. These verandas are built for protection against the powerful rays of the sun. In summer the heat is intense ; often the mercury marks 120, and once, some years ago, we learn from a reliable author- ity, it was 130 degrees in the shade. As might be supposed, snow and frost c 'e un- known in Yuma. In summer, the American, Spanish and Mexican residents wear as little clothing as possible, while the native Indians' covering will not ex- ceed the size of a small pocket handker- chief, adjusted in the mother Eve fashion, with sometimes a long, trailing strip of red material dangling from the rear belt, a la monkey. In the hot weather, which is intense for about eight mouths in the year, the people sleep on the roofs of the houses, covered by the drapery furnished by nature — darkness. Yuma, with all its varieties of citizens, is a very orderly city. The great majority of the people are Roman Catholics, that denomination having the only church AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 255 building in the city. There are a few stores, with quite an extensive stock of goods. The hotels are not very extensive, such only in name ; the Palace and Colorado are the two principal ones. Yuma has one weekly newspaper — the Sentinel. Most of the Spanish and Mexican houses are surrounded with high fences, made of poles, set in the ground close to- gether, to a depth of three or more feet, and secured together about four feet from the ground, with narrow strips of raw-hide interwoven, when soft, around and between the poles, so when the hide dries the fence is very strong. Many of these fences pre- sent a very ragged appearance, as the poles range in height from foiy to twelve feet above the ground. The more enter- prising of the people saw these poles otf to a uniform height, when they present a much more artistic and finished appear- ance. The Railroad Company have large ware- houses here built of lumber, for the ac- commodation of both the railroad and steamer business. The boats on the Color- ado River are all owned by the Railroad Company, and are run in connection with the trains. Just above the railroad bridge, on the west bank of the Colorado River, is situ- ated Fort Yuma. It is located on the top of a bold, round butte about one-fourth of a mile in diameter, rising about 300 feet above the river bottom, and projecting into the Colorado River to meet a promon- tory of about the same height on the east side. Between these bold points flows the Colorado River, about 300 yards in width. The Colorado River reaches this point from the northward, and the Gila (pro- nounced Hee-le) from the east, forming a junction close above the points named. It is proposed by those managing the in- terests (so we hear) of the Texas & Pa- cific railroad, to build a bridge across the Colorado River at these blulis, some work of grading having been done in the fall of 1877, just previous to the locating of the present railroad bridge, a few hundred yards below. From the high butte above named, a view can be had of Yuma, the valleys of the Colorado and the Gila rivers, the mesas, and the surrounding country for many miles. Stages leave Yuma daily, carrying pas- sengers, mails, and express, for Florence, 225 miles ; Tueson, 5?<5 miles, and Apacha Pass, 665 miles, all in Arizona; to Silver City, 790 miles, and Mesilla, 915 miles in New Mexico ; then to El Paso, Texas, 965 miles, and to the end of the Texas & Pa- cific railroad, at Fort Worth, 900 miles further east, making 1,865 miles between the Southern Pacific and the Texas & Pacific railroads, or Yuma, Arizona, and Fort Worth, Texas. COLORADO RIVER STEAMERS. Passenger and freight steamers leave Yuma for Aubry, during the summer season, weekly, commencing Saturday, May 4th, 1878, and continuing until Oct. 26th; from that time until January 4th following, they will leave ev^ry alternate Saturday. Steamers for Camp Mohava leave every fifth Wednesday, commencing Jan. 16th. These steamers run to El- Dorado Canyon, from May 1st to the last of October (stage of water permitting). Distance from Yuma, per river steamer to Castle Dome, 35 miles; fare, $5.00; Eherenberg, 125 miles, fare, $15.00 ; Aubrys, 220 miles, fare, $28.00; Camp Mohava, 300 miles, fare, $35.00; Hardy- ville, 312 miles, fare, $35.00; El Dorado Canyon, 365 miles, fare, $45 00. The Colorado is the principal River of Arizona. It is principally supplied by the Grand River, which rises in the Middle Park of Colorado, and the Green River which rises in the eastern portion of Idaho. From the junction of the Grand and Green rivers, the stream is called the Colorado, and with its windings has a length of 3,000 miles to where it enters the Gulf of California. It is navigable at all times about 500 miles, and in a season of high water about 150 miles further, to Call- ville. The Grand Canyon of the Colorado has been "written up" so often that it would be unnecessary for us to more than allude to the fact that the time is not far distant when a trip to the Grand Canyon will be one of the most attractive, and quite as common as to Niagara Falls to the people of the State of New York. For nearly 300 miles the channel of the river has been cut through the mountain walls that rise up on each side from 1,000 to 3,500 feet, forming the largest and grandest canyon the eye of man ever beheld. See Annex No. 55 for further informa- tion. ^wmm •if .M Jk. isr 3sr E x: , In order not to encumber the body of this work with matters that do not directly pertain to the main points at issue, the author has originated an " annex," wherein the reader will find a mass of information which has been prepared with great care, and embraces condensed descriptions and statistical information gathered from the best sources. To these points the reader is frequently referred, throughout the work, by a number to correspond with the annex sought. The numbers at the bottom of the large illustrations, which begin at the first of the book, will be found to correspond with those in the annex, giving a description of the same, and,vice versa. Ifo. 1 Annex American Progress.— This beautiful picture, which will be found opposite the title page, is purely national in design, and represents the United States' portion of the American Continent; the be auty and variety, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean, illustrating at a glance the grand drama of Progress in the civilization, settlement, and history of this country. In the foreground, the central and principal fig- ure, a beautiful and charming female, is floating westward through the air, bearing on her forehead the " Star of Empire.'" She has left the cities of the East far behind, crossed the Alleghanies and the "Father of Waters," and still her course is westward. In her right hand she carries a book — common school— the emblem of education and the testimonial of our national enlightenment, while with the left hand she unfolds and stretches the slender wires of the telegraph, that are to flash intelligence throughout the laud. On the right of the picture, is a city, steamships, manufactories, schools and churches, over which beams of light are streaming and filling the air — indicative of civilization. The general tone of the picture on the left, declares darkness, waste and confusion. From the city proceed the three great continental lines of railway, passing the frontier settler's rude cabin and tending toward the Western Ocean. Next to these are the transportation wagons, overland stage, hunters, gold-seekers, pony ex- press, the pioneer emigrant, and the war-dance of the "• noble red man." Fleeing from "Progress," and toward the blue waters of the Pacific, which shows itself on the left of the picture, beyond the snow-capped summits of the Sierra Nevadas, are the Indians, buftalo, wild horses, bears, and other game, moving westward— ever westward. The Indians, with their squaws, pappooses, and '• pony-lodges," turn their despairing faces toward the setting sun, as they flee from the presence of the wondrous vision. The "Star" is too much for them. What American man, woman or child, does not feel a heart-throb of exultation as they think of the glorious achievements of Progress since the lauding of the Pilgrim Fathers, on staunch old Plymouth Rock ! This picture was the design of the author of the Tourist— is National, and illustrates, in the most artistic manner, all those gigantic results of American brains and hands, which have caused the mighty wilderness to blossom like the rose. ]«o. 15 Annex. Passag*- Ticket Memoranda. No. 3 Annex. Baggage Check Memoranda. 301 crofutt's new overland tourist No. 4 Annex.— RATES OF FARE !li^t Class |-2d Class. jEmigr't. New York to San Francisco, California ,... Philadelphia to Baltimore '■ '' " Boston '• " " Montreal " " " New Orleans '' " " Cincinnati' " " " Indianapolis" " " Chicago " " " St. Louis '^ " '' Omaha to Grand Island, Nebraska " North Platte, '' '• Sidney, " " Denver, Colorado " Colorado Springs, Colorado " Pueblo, Colorado " "• Cheyenne, Wyoming " Custer City, Black Hills, via Stage from Sidney. . . . "■ Custer City, " " " Cheyenne " Deadwood " " " Sidney.... •• Deadwood, " " " Cheyenne •' Laramie, Wyoming '' Ogden, Utah "■ Salt Lake City, Utah •' Virginia City, Montana, via Stage from Franklin. . . " Deer Lodge, " " " " ... •• Helena, • Corinne, Utah ■• Kelton, " ■' Boise City, Idaho, via Stage from Kelton ■• Silver City, " " " " " •• Baker City, Gregon, " '^ " ♦' - WallaWalla,Wash^n '• Umatilla, Oregon " '• •' " '• Dalles, " " ' • •' Portland, Redding St'mr f'm San Fran'co Elko, Nevada Battle Mountain, Nevada. Reno, Nevada Virginia City, Nevada, via V. & T. R. R. from Reno. . . Truckee, Nevada Marysville, California Sacramento, " Stockton, " Los Angeles, Cal., all Rail via Lathrop Santa Barbara, Cal., via Rail and Stage from Lathrop. San Diego, '^ " " " " " '' • San Jose, California . San Francisco, California Children under five years of age, free: under twelve years, half-fare. $138 00 105 00 ,$65 (jO 136 00 104 00 63 50 135 50 103 50 63 00 143 85 110 00 66 00 139 70 104 00 f6 00 143 00 103 25 70 75 133 85 96 00 63 EO 119 85 93 35 59 75 116 10 88 00 . 55 50 116 00 88 00 55 50 7 70 14 55 22 15 35 00 30 00 20 00 41 CO 35 00 24 00 42 75 36 G5 24 40 31 00 24 00 45 00 25 00 45 00 25 00 45 00 25 00 45 00 25 00 36 20 77 50 60 00 40 00 79 50 6i 00 42 00 105 00 90 00 45 CO 105 00 90 00 45 00 105 00 SO 00 45 00 79 25 61 75 41 75 85 00 67 50 45 00 119 50 108 50 80 00 124 50 113 50 80 00 124 00 113 50 80 00 125 00 113 50 80 00 125 00 113 50 80 00 125 00 113 50 80 00 136 00 119 50 • 80 00 143 00 118 00 88 00 125 00 100 00 57 00 94 35 75 00 45 00 95 00 75 00 45 00 98 00 75 00 45 00 101 50 78 50 48 50 99 00 75 00 45 00 100 00 75 00 45 00 100 00 75 00 45 00 100 00 75 00 45 00 120 00 95 00 55 00 127 00 131 00 100 00 75 00 45 00 100 00 75 00 45 00 Cars cannot toe chartered for carrying passengers ; each person must be provided with a Ticket. mo. 5.— Annex. OUR WESTERN COUNTRY. Past and Present— This country can no longer be spoken of as the " Far West," as that land is generally conceded to lie nearer sundown, or at least beyond the Rocky Mountains. Ne- braska, which we enter on crossing the river, so lately opened up to the world, and so lately con- sidered one portion of the " Wild West," forms now one of our central States. It possesses a genial climate, good water, and a fair supply of timber, and the broad prairies of the eastern por- tion of the State are dotted with well-cftltivated and well-stocked farms, that greet the eye of the traveler in every direction, while on all sides may be seen the evidences of thrift and comfort-found only in a farming region . Wheat, oats and corn, yield luxuriant returns, and all kinds of fruits and garden vegetables incidental to this latitude, can be grown in profusion. Rarely will the trav- eler find a more magnificent scene, and more sug- gestive of real wealth and prosperity, than can be seen on these broad prairies, when the fields of yellow grain or waving corn are waiting for the harvesters. Miles and miles away stretch the undulating plains, far— aye, farther than the eye can sec. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 302 In rapid succession we pass the better residence of the " old settler," with his immense fields of grain and herds of stock, on heyond the boundaries of earlier settlements ; and now we reach the rude cabin of the hardy settler who has located still ''farther west," and here, within a few years, will arise a home as attractive as those we have left behind, surrounded with orchards, gardens and flocks. Here, too, will the snug school-house be found, and the white church with its tapering spire, pointing the people to the abode of Him who hath so richly blessed his childien. There is beauty on every hand. The wild prairie flowers, of a thousand diflerent hues and varieties, greet the eye at every step; and the tiniest foot that ever trod Broadway could scarce reach the ground without crushing the life from out some of these emblems of purity. And when the cooling showers have moistened the thirsty earth, or when the morning dew is spangling flower, vine and tree, there is more of quiet, graceful beauty — more of that spirit floating around us which renders man more human, and woman nearer what we desire her to be, than can be found within the walls of any city . Long will the memory of these scenes remain impressed on the mind of the trav- eler who admires nature in all her phases. For a long time, Iowa, Indiana, Michigan and Ohio were supposed to contain the wheat-grow- ing soil of the Union, and they became known as the " Granaries of the States . " But those " gran- aries " have pushed themselves a little "farther west," if we may be allowed to use the expression. Nebraska has retained a portion of the name; California and Oregon took the remainder. Ne- braska annually produces a large surplus of wheat and corn, which finds its way eastward. With the advantages possessed by this State; with a water-front of several hundred miles on a stream navigable the greater portion of the year; with the grandest railroad on the continent traversing her entire breadth; with all the resources of com- merce at her command; with unlimited water power for manufactures, it will be strange, indeed, if Nebraska does not sustain her high rank in the great family of States. From our present stand-uoint the quotation, "Westward the Star of Empire Takes Its Way," must apply to The Far West— How often that sentence has been quoted, those who are the most familiar with the growth of our western possessions can beet remember. So often has it been ut- tered, that it has passed into a household word, and endowed its innocent and unsuspecting author with an earthly immortality. From the boyhood days of that reliable and highly re- spectable individual, the "Oldest Inhabi- tant" of any special locality in the "Eastern States," it has formed the heading— in large or small caps — of nearly every newspaper notice which chronicled the fact that some family had packed their household goods and gods (mostly goods) and left their native land of woods, rocks, churches and school-houses, to seek a home among the then mythical prairies of the "Far West." But oh ! in later years, how that quotation ran across the double columns of these same papers in all conceivable forms of type, when the fact was chronicled that one of our West^ ern Territories was admitted as a State into the Union. Well, but where was your "Far West" then., where people went when they had "Westward, ho! " on the brain? asks one, who speaks of the West as that part of our country which lies be- tween the summit of the Rocky Mountains and the waters of the Pacific Ocean? Well, the " Far West" of that time, that almost mythical region, was what now constitutes those vast and fertile prairies which lie south and west of the great Jakes, and east of and bordering on the Mississippi Kiver. All west of that was a blank; the home of the savage, the wild beast, and all unclean things — at least so said the " Oldest Inhabitant." But our hardy pioneers passed the Rubicon, and the West i-eceded before their advance. Mis- souri was peopled, and the Father of Waters be- came the great natural highway of a mighty com- merce, sustained in equal parts by the iiopulous and newly made States lying on both its banks, which had been carved out of the " Far West " by the hands of the hardy pioneers. Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri and Iowa, had joined the sisterhood, and yet the tide of emigration stayed not. It tra- versed the trackless desert, scaled the Rocky Mountains, and secured a foothold^ in Oregon. But it passed not by unheeding the rich valleys and bioad prairies of Nebraska, which retained what became, with subsequent additions, a per- manent and thriving population. Then the yel- low gold, which had been found in California, drew the tide of emigration thitherward, and in a few years our golden-haired sister was added to the number comprising the States of the Union. Oregon and Nevada on the western slope, Kan- sas and Nebraska on the east, followed, and, later, Colorado, and still we have Dakota, Idaho, Mon- tana, Washington, Utah, Arizona, and New Mex- ico Territories, to say nothing of Alaska, waiting the time when they too shall be competent to add their names to the roll of honor and enter the Union on an equality with the others. Thus we see that the "Far West" of to-day has become far removed from the West of thirty— or even ten- years ago, and what is now the central portion of our commonwealth was then the Far., Far West. All is Changed— To-day the foam-crested waves of the Pacific Ocean bear on their bosoms a mighty and steadily increasing commerce. China, Japan, Australia, the Sandwich Islands, South America, and the Orient are at our doors. A rich, powerful, populous section, comprising three States, has arisen, where but a few years since the Jesuit missions among the savages were the only marks of civilization. And all over the once unknown waste, amid the cosy valleys and on the broad plains, are the scattered homes of the hardy and brave pioneer husbandmen ; while the bleak mountains— once the home of the savage and wild beast, the deep gulches and gloomy canyons, " are illuminated with the perpetual fires of the " smelting furnaces," the ring of pick, shovel and drill, the clatter of stamps and booming of blasts, all tell of the presence of the miner, and the streams of wealth which are daily flowing into our national cotfers are rapidly increasing ; for, just in proportion as the individual becomes enriched, so does his country partake of his fortune. Condensed History— it is only a score of years ago since the Government of the United States, in order to better protect her citiz'^ns that had spread themselves over the wild expanse of country between the Missouri River and the Pa- cific Ocean, and from the Mexican on the south and the British possessions on the north, estab- lished a system of military forts and posts, extend- ing north and south, east and west, over this Terri- tory. Though productive of much good, they were not sufficient to meet the requirements of the times, and in many places settlers and miners were murdered with impunity by the Indians. ! Wise men regarded rapid emigration as the only 303 ckofutt's new overlaxd toukist safe plan of security, and this could uot be accom- plished without swifter, surer, aud cheaper means of transporting the poor, who would gladly avail themselves of the opportunity to possess a free farm, or reach the gold fields of the West. The railroad and telegraph — twin sisters of civilization — were talked of, but old fogies shook their heads in the plentitude of their wisdom, piously crossed themselves, and clasped with a firmer grasp their money bags, when Young America dared broach the subject, "Ko, sir, no; the thing is totally absurd; impracticable,6ir; don't talk any more of such nonsense to me," they would reply, as they turned away to go to their church or to their stock gambling in Wall street — probably the latter occu- pation. But Young America did not give up to this theory or accept the dictum of Moneybags ; and as the counties of the West grew and ex- panded under the mighty tide of immigration, they clamored for a safe and speedy transit be- tween them and their '-Fatherland." Government with its usual red-tape delays and scientific way of how not to do it, heeded not the appeal, until the red hand of War — of liebelion— pointed out to it the stern necessity of securing, by iron bands, the fair dominions of the West from foreign or domes- tic foe, Notwithstanding that Benton, Clark, and others had long urged the necessity and practicability of the scheme, the wealth and power which would accrue to the country from its realization, the idea found favor with but few of our wise legislators until they awoke to the knowledge that even the loyal State of California was in danger of being abandoned by those in command, and turned over to the insurgents ; that a rebel force was forming in Texas with the Pacific coast as its objective point; that foreign and domestic mechinations threatened the dismemberment of the Union into three divisions; not until all this stared them in the face could our national Solons see the practica- bility of the scheme so earnestly and ably advocated by Sargent of California and his able coadjutors in the noble work. To this threatened invasion of our Western possessions, what had Government to ofi"er for successful defense? Nothing but a few half-finished and illy-manned forts around the bay, and the untaught militia of the Pacific coast. Un- der this pressure was the charter granted; and it may truly be said that the road was inaugurated by the grandest carnival of blood the world has ever known ; for, without the pressure of the re- bellion, the road would probably be in embryo to- day. Although the American people had been keenly alive to the importance ot a speedy transit between the two extremes of the Continent ever since the discovery of gold on the Pacific slope, up to this time the old, vague rumors of barren deserts, dark, deep, and gloomy gorges, tremend- ous, rugged, snow-clad mountains, and the wild savage, made the idea seem preposterous. Even the reports of the emigrants could not convince them to the contrary; nor yet the reports of the Mormons who marked and mapped a feasible route to Salt Lake City. And it is worthy of remark, that, for over 700 miles the road follows very closely their survey. Practical, earnest men, disabused the minds of the people regarding the impracticability ot the scheme, after the roaa had became a national ne- cessity — a question of life and unity of the Repub- lic. The great work has been accomplished, and to-day the locomotive whirls its long train, filled with emigrants or pleasure seekers, through that region which, only a few years ago, was but a dim, undefined, mythical land, composed of chaos, and the last faint eflbrts of nature to render that cha- otic State still more inhospitable and uninviting. How great the change from the ideal to the reai ! For three hundred miles after leaving Omaha, that vague " Great American Desert" proves to be as beautiful and fertile a succession of valleys as can be found elsewhere, under like geographical posi- tions. Great is the change indeed; still greater the changes through which our country has passed during the period Irom the commencement to the ending of our proudest national civil record, save one. We live in a fast age; the gentle breeze of to-day was the tornado ot fifty years ago. In noting the history of the Continental railroad we must speak of the attempts in that direction which had been made by other parties . Missouri, through her able and liberal legislature, was the first State to move in the construction of a na- tional or continental railroad. The Legislature of that State granted a charter, under which was in- corporated the Missouri and Pacific Railroad Co., who were to build a road, diverging at Franklin, southwest, via Rollo, Springfield, Neosho (the Galena district), and along the line of the thirty- sixth parallel to Santa Fe, New Mexico. From Santa Fe, to San Francisco preliminary surveys were made, and had it not been for the rebellion, this road would undoubtedly have been completed long ere this; good authorities placing the limit at 1864. The cause which compelled the construc- tion of the Union and Central roads, destroyed fhe Southern. Passing, as it did, mostly through Southern, hostile territory, Government could not aid or protect it in its construction, and conse- quently the work was suspended. The States of Arkansas and Tennessee, by their legislatures, proposed to assist the work, by constructing a railroad from Little Rock, to connect with the M. & P., somewhere between the ninety-eighth and one hundred and second degree of longitude, and for that purpose a charter was granted. Organization of the Pacific Rail- road—The evident, and we might add, the im- perative necessity of connecting the East and West, and the intervening Territories, encouraged the corporators of the great trans-continental line to apply to the Government for aid. Many meas- ures were devised and laid before the people, but the supposed impregnability of the Rocky Mountains, and other natural obstacles to be encountered, caused a hesitancy even then on the part of our energetic people to commence the great work. To attempt to lay the iron rail through vast tracts of unknown country, inhabited by wandering, hostile tribes of savage nomads ; to scale the show-clad peaks of the Rocky Mountains with the fiery lo- comotive, seemed an undertaking too vast for even the American people to accomplish. But the absolute importance, the tirgent necessity of such a work, overcame all objections to the scheme, and in 1862 Congress passed an act, which was approved by President Lincoln on the first day of July of that year, by which the Government sanctioned the undertaking, and pi'omised the use of its credit to aid in its speedy completion. The act was entitled '-An act to aid in the construc- tion of a railroad and telegraph line from the Mis- souri River to the Pacific Ocean, and to secure to the Government the use of the same for postal, military, and other purposes." Liand. tiirant— The Government grant of lands to the great national highway, as amended, was, every alternate section of land for 20 miles on each side of the road, or 20 sections, equaling 12,- 800 acres for each mile of the road. By the Com- pany's table, the road, as completed, is 1,776 18- 100 miles long from Omaha to Sacramento. This would give the companies 22,735,104 acres, divided AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 304 as follows: Union Pacific, 13,295,104; Central Pa- cific, ^9,440,000. By mutual agreement between the Union and Central companies, made several years ago, Og- den, in Utah, has been decided upon as the "junction " of the two roads. In addition to the grant of lands and right of way. Government agreed to issue its thirty year six per cent, bonds in aid of the work, graduated as follows : for the plains portion of the road, $16,- 000 per mile; for the next most difficult portion, $32,000 per mile; for the mountainous portion, $48,000 per mile. The Union Pacific Railroad Co. built 525 78-100 miles, for which they received $16,000 per mile; 363 602-1000 miles at $32,000 per mile ; 150 miles at $48,000 per mile, making a total of $25,236,512. The Central Pacific Railroad Co. built 7 18-100 miles at $16,000 per mile ; 580 32.100 miles at $32,- 000 per mile ; 150 miles at $48,000 per mile, making a total of $25,885,120. The total subsidies for both roads amount to $52,121,632. Government also guaranteed the in- terest on the companies' first mortgage bonds to an equal amount. Cost of construction, material, etc.— - In the construction of the whole line, there were used about 300.000 tons of iron rails, 1,700,000 fish plates, 6,800,000 bolts, 6,126,375 cross-ties, 23,505,500 spikes. Besides this, there was used an incalculable amount of sawed lumber boards for building, tim- ber for trestles, bridges, etc. Estimating the cost of the road with equipments complete by that of other first-class roads ($105,000), per mile and we have the sum of $186,498,900 as the approximate cost of the work. We have not had much to say heretofore in re- gard to the Importance of tlie Road— to the Ameri- can people, the Government, or the world at large, simply from the fact that it seemed to us, anything we might say would be entirely superjiuous^ as the incalculable advantages to all could admit of 110 possible doubt. We contented ourselves in an- nually calling attention to the vast;extentof rich mineral, agricultural and grazing country opened up— a vast country which had heretofore been con- sidered worthless. We have pointed out, step by step, the most important features, productions, and advantages of each section traversed by the road; stated that the East and West were now connected by a short OMd. quick route, over which the vast trade of China, Japan, and the Orient could flow in its transit eastward; and, finally, that its importance to the miner, agriculturalist, stock-raiser, the Government, and the world at large, few., if any., could estimate. To those who are continually grumbling about the Pacific railroad, and forget the history of the past, professing to think that these railroad com- panies are great debtors to the Government, we would most respectlully submit Facts in Brief.— On the 18th day of March, 1862, before the charter for the Pacific railroad was granted, while the country was in the midst of a civil war, at a time, too, when foreign war was most imminent— the Trent affair showed how im- minent — and the country was straining every nerve for national existence, and capital, unusually cautious, Mr. Campbell, of Penn., Chairman of the House Committee on the " Pacific Railroad " (See Congressional Globe, page 1712, session 2d, 37th Congress), said : "■The road is a necessity to the Government. It is the Government that is asking individual cap- italists to build the road. Gentlemen are under the impression that it is a very great benefit to these stockholders to aid them to an extent of about half the capital required. I beg leave to call the attention of gentlemen to the fact that it is the Government w^hich is under the necessity to con- struct the road. If the capitalists of the country are willing to come forward and advance half the amount necessary for this great enterprise, the Government is doing little in aiding the Company to the extent of the other half by way of a loan." Again, (page 1,911)—" It is not supposed that in the first instance the Company will reimburse the interest to the Government; it will reimburse it in transportation." Mr. White said: -'I under- take to say that not a cent of these advances will ever be repaid, nor do I think it df sirable that they should be, as this road is to be the highway of the nation." In the Senate (see Congressional Globe, page 2,257, 3d vol., 2d session, 37th Congress) Hon. Henry Wilson, from Mass., said: '' I give no grudging vote in giving away either money or land. I would sink $100,600,000 to build the road, and do it most cheerfully, and think I had done a great thing for my country. What are $75,000,000 or $100,000,000 in opening a railroad across the central regions of this Continent, that shall connect the people of the Atlantic and Pa- cific, and bind us together? Nothing. As to the lands, I don't grudge them." Nine years later— after the road had been com- pleted nearly two years— Senator Stewart, from the Committee on the Pacific railroad, said in his re- port to the U. S. Senate: " The cost of the overland service for the whole period— from the acquisition of our Pacific coast possessions down to the completion of the Pacific railroad— was over $8,000,000 per annum, and this cost was constantly increasing. "The cost, since the completion of the road, is the annual interest "—[which includes all the branches— Ed.]— $3,897,129-10 which must be added one-half the charges for services performed by the company, about $1,16.3,138 per annum, making a total expenditure of about $5,000,000, and showing a saving of at least $3,000,000 per annum. '• This calculation is upon the basis that none of the interest will ever be repaid to the United States, except what is paid by the services, and that the excess of interest advanced over freights is a total loss. " In this statement no account is made of the constant destruction of life and private property by Indians; of the large amounts of money paid by the Secretary of the Treasury as indemnity for damages by Indians to property in the Govern- ment service on the plains, under the act of March 3, 1849; of the increased mail facilities, of the pre- vention of Indian wars, of the increased value of public lands, of the development of the coal and iron mines of Wyoming, and the gold and silver mines of Nevada and Utah ; of the value of the road in a commercial point of view in utilizing the interior of the continent, and in facilitating trade and commerce with the Pacific coast and Asia; and, above all, in cementing the Union and furnishing security in the event of foreign wars." Remember that the Government by charter ex- acted that these companies should complete their line by 1876 ; but, by almost superhuman exertion, it was completed May 10, 1869— and the Government has had the benefit of the road seven years before the company were compelled by law to finish it. Now, if we take no account oi the millions the Government saved during the buildingof the road — and at their own figures— the saving during the 305 ceoputt's xew overland tourist seven years previous to 1876 lias netted the Gov- ernment S~1:000,000, besides paying the interest ' on the whole amount of bonds. A<^ain, if it cost the Government, before the cooTpletion of the Pacific railroad, according to Mr. Stewart, " over $8,000,000 per annum, and this cost was constantly increasing'" how fast ' was this increase? Could it be less than six per cent, per annum? Should the figures be made on the basis of six per cent., the Government must have saved, previous to 1876, in the seven years that the line was completed— before the com- . panies were compelledto complete it -over thirty • BULLIONS OP DOLLARS. This, too. after the Gov- ernment deducts every dollar of interest on i!^62/' own bonds issued to the companies to aid the con- struction of the road. The above are some few of the advantages of the Pacific railroad to the Government, and, con- sequently, to the country at large. The States and Territories on the line of the Union and Central Pacific railroads, or immedi- ately tributary to it, contained a population, m 1860, of only 554,301, with 232 miles of telegraph line and 32 miles ot railway. This same cope of country contained a population, according to the census of 1870, of 1,011,971, and was encompassed by over 13.000 miles of telegraph lines and 4,191 milesof railroads. CO w;:'^e;'^^, and many more in progress, in which was invested the enormous capital of $363,750,000. Add to the above the im- mense amount of capital invested— in quartz mills, smelting furnaces, development of mines, and other resources of the country, within the same ten years— then shoald we bring all the fig- ures down to the present times, the grand total would be comparatively an astonishing romance. Where, but a few years ago, the buflalo and other game roamed in countless thousands, and the savages skulked in the canyons, and secret hiding-place«, where they could pounce out nn- awares upon the emigrant; the hardy pioneers who have made the wilderness if not ''to blossom like the rose," a safe pathway for the present generation, by laying down their lives in the cause of advancing civilization, now are to be seen hundreds of thousands of hardy emigrants, with their horses, cattle, sheep, and domestic ani- mals; and ihe savages are among the things that have " moved on." CjJrumblers— The great hue and cry that are made at times by the people and press of the country, in regard to "giving away the lands," "squandering the public domain," etc., which censure the Government for giving, and the rail- road company for receiving grants of land in aid of this road, are very surprising in view of the fore- going facts. We would like to know what the lands on the line of these railroads would be worth without the road? Did the Government ever sell any? Could the Government ever sell them? I^ever. It could not ri^alize as much fi'om a million of acres as it would cost their surveyors and land-agents for ci- tiars while surveying and looking after them. When ihe Pacific road commenced, "there was not a land office in Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, Utah, or Nevada, and only one or two in each of the other States or Territories. On the other hand, by the building of the road, many millions of dollars have already found their way into the Government treasury, and at just double the usual price per acre.. These grumblers would place the Government in the position of the boy who wanted • to eat his apple, sell it, and then get credit for ; gimng it away. O! how generous. :Vo. 6 Annex. The High School at Omaha— an illustration of which we present on another page, stands on the site of the old State House of Nebraska, and is known as "Capi- tol Hill." It was completed in 1876, and cost $280,000. It is 176 feet long and 80 feet wide. The main spire rises 185 feet from the ground. The building is constructed in the most sub- stantial manner, which, for convenience, beauty ia design, and finish throughout, has but few, if any, superiors in the western country. This High School has a contemporary, of the same name, in the city of Omaha, if a monthly newspaper—" a repository of refined literature and journal of education" — could be called such. " The High School''' is, as the quotation above indicates, devoted to pure literature and educa- tional purposes, eschewing sensational journal- ism. Its essays, poems, fashion notes, college, university and'high school reports, miscellaneous correspondence, and editorial reviews on all the live questions of the day, make it very desirable as a family journal, and specially interesting to young ladies and gentlemen. Nothing unrefined is ever allowed to appear in its columns. It is printed on fine book paper; price, $1 a year. Xo. 7 Annex. First Steam Train— The illustration given on page 82 was drawn and engraved from the original painting in the posses- sion of the Connecticut Historical Society, and represents an Excursion Train on the Mohawk and Hudson K. R. from Albany to Schenectady, N. Y. , in 1831, the first steam train in America. The engine was the " The John Bull," imported from England, as well as the engineer, John Hampton, " expressly for this road at large ex- pense." Her cylinder was 5^4 inches, 16 inch stroke, wheels AYz feet. The boilers had thirty copper tubes, five feet long, four inches in diame- ter. Connecting: rods are worked on double cranks on front axle. Weight of engine complete, 4 tons. The tender represents the method of carrying tha fuel — wood — in barrels, with a few sticks handy for immediate use. The cars were regular stage bodies set on car wheels. On this grand excur- sion trial trip* were sixteen persons, who were then thought venturesome, many of whom have since filled important positions in the councils oi the country. Mr. Sidney Dillon, President of the Union Pacific K. R., it seems, was one of the ad- venturous few. Here is food for thought and com- parison with the improvements of the present day. ]Vo. 8 Annex. The Maclrone Tree— This peculiar tree can be seen in many parts of California, particularly on excursions, des- cribed in Nos. 4 and 5. It sheds its bark in the fall of the year, much the same as other trees their leaves. The tree after shedding its bark, has a bright salmon color, then turns gradually darker, until, at the shedding time the following year, the bark is quite dark. The Manzanita, which means in Spanish "lit- tle apple," a small shrub, also sheds its bark. It is found along the foot-hill ranges of California. The root is very tough, fine grained and polishes very beautifully. Many fine boxes, and handles for canes, umbrellas and parasols are made from the root of the Manzanita. Xo. 9 Annex. — "The Hand-book of Wyoming and Guide to the Black Hills and Big Horn Re- gions," by Robt. E. Strahorn, Esq., Cheyenne, Wyoming, 1877. This is a most invaluable work, describing a new and intensely interesting re- gion at this time. Mr. Strahorn has traversed the country he describes, and in the 270 pages will be found — an unusual thing these days — a vast AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 306 amount of new and original matter. Price, in full cloth, $1.25; in paper covers, 75 cents. Sold on the trains. Wolfe's Business Directory of all the cities, towns and stations, on the line of the Union Pa- cific railroad, and on the line of nearly every other railroad in Nebraska, Colorado, Wyoming and Utah, together with a vast amount of miscel- laneous information, collected and published for the first time. J. M. Wolfe, Publisher, Omaha, Neb. Price, $3.50. 1^=" For a miscellaneous collection of old blood- curdling Indian stories, stale jokes, old plains yarns, together with a compilation of facts from previous volumes of our books, buy our imitator's book. For an additional list of books worth buy- ing, see Annex 51. Xo. 10 Annex. Jack Slade— Virginia Dale was originally a stage station on the old Denver, Salt Lake and California road, and was laid out and kept by the notorious Jack Slade, who was division superintend- ent for the old C. O. C. Stage Co., from 1860 to 1863. It was supposed that Slade was the head of a gang of desperadoes who infested the coun- try, running ofi" stock from the emigrants, and ap- propriating the same. At any rate he was a noted desperado, having, it is said, killed thirteen men. The last of his exploits, east of the mountains, was the wanton and cruel murder of Jules Burg, the person who gave his name to Julesburg. Slade had a quarrel with Jules in 1861, which ended in a shooting scrape, wherein Slade was beaten — or, as their class would say, '"forced to take water." In 1863 some of the drivers on the line, friends and employes of Blade's, decoyed Jules to the Cold Spring ranche, on the North Platte River, kept at the time by old Antoine Runnels, commonly known as " the Devil's left bower." He was a great friend of Slade's, who appears to have rightfully earned the title of "right bower" to that same warm-natured indi vidual. The place where this tragedy occurred is 50 miles north of Cheyenne, and 25 miles below Fort Laramie, whither Slade repaired from Cot- tonwood Springs (opposite McPherson station) in an extra coach as soon as he was notified of the capture of his old enemy. He drove night and day, arriving at Cold Spring ranche early in the morning. On alighting from the coach he found Jules tied to a post in a coral, in such a position as to render him perfectly helpless. Slade shot him twenty-three times, taking care not to kill him, cursing all the time in a most fearful man- ner, returning to the ranche for a " drink " between shots. While firing the first twenty-two shots, he would tell Jules just where he was going to hit him, adding that he did not intend to kill him immediately; that he intended to torture him to death. During this brutal scene, seven of Slade's friends stood by and witnessed the proceedings. Unable to provoke a cry of pain or a sign of fear from the unfortunate Jules, he thrust the pistol into his mouth, and at the twenty-th-rd shot blew his head to pieces. Slade then cut the ears from his victim, and put them in his pocket. In the salooijts of Denver City, and other places, he would take Jules' ears out of his pocket, throw them down on the bar, and openly boasting of the act, would demand the drinks on his bloody pledges, which were never refused him. Shortly after this exploit, it became too hot for him in Colorado, and he was forced to flee. From thence he went to Virginia City, Montana, where he continued to prey upon society. The people in that country had no love or use for his kind of people, and after his conduct had become insup- portable, the Vigilantes hung him, as he richly deserved. His wife arrived at the scene of execution just in time to behold his dead body. She had ridden on horseback 15 miles for the avowed purpose of shooting Slade, to save the disgrace of having him hung, and she arrived on the scene with re- volver in hand, only a few minutes too late to exe- cute her scheme — Jack Slade, the desperado, was dead, and he died — " with his boots on." Xo. 11 Annex. Boulder Canyon— This large illustration— No. 4— is noticeably wild and ro- mantic, even in a country where nature has been so productive of surprising scenery. On either side rise the lofty walls, from 1,000 to 2,000 feet in height, their sides covered with verdure, save in spots where the rocks stand forth in naked bold- ness. Through the canyon rushes a noisy and turbulent stream, serving to enhance the attrac- tions and break the solitude. Through its whole extent, a distance of fifteen miles, the points of special interest vie with each other in attracting the attention of the beholder. Prominent among those are the "• Falls "jj and the "• Dome." ■ The former are ten miles distant from Boulder City, (see page 68) on the North Fork, a few hundred yards from its junction with the Mid- dle Boulder, whence they are reached by a roman- tic trail along the mountain side. Three miles up the canyon, and nearly ep circled by it, rises the "Dome," a solitary and m^estic mass of granite, five hundred feet in height'. The illustration is from a photograph by W. G. Cham- berlain, of Denver. Xo. 13 Annex. Hanging Rock of dear Creek Canyon— as shown in our large view. No. 3, is at the point of entry into one of the grandest of nature's amphitheatres. It is an ex- ample of how man can utilize the sublime scenery of nature, and make even the canyons — which, struggling, have worn through almost impene- trable granite — the medium of communication be- tween regions that had once seemed almost im- penetrable. By almost incredible engineering skill, the bed for the railroad was cut out of the wall of solid granite, beside which flows Clear Creek; following its sinuosities, with the creek thundering below, and the walls of overhanging rock towering aloft to the height of from 1,500 to 2,000 feet above the road. If you want to see nature in all her wild sublimity, and art as the triumphant utilizer of her varied resources, you need not visit the Alps or Apenines, but go and see the grand scen- ery of Clear Creek Canyon of Colorado. See page 72. IXfo. 13 Annex. Snow Difficulties— The Central Pacific Company commenced the erection of snow-sheds at the same time with their track- laying over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and the result has been their trains have never been delayed as often or as long as on many roads in the Eastern States. The depths of snow-fall and the necessities for snow-sheds over the Sierras were known^ and could be guarded against, but further to the eastward, over the Rocky Moun- tains, on the route of the Union Pacific, no such necessity for protection against snow was thought to exist; hence the blockade of February and March, 1869. The Union Pacific Company immediately took— as was thought by everybody at the time— am- ple precautions to protect their cuts from the drifting snow, by the erection of snow-fences and snow-sheds at every exposed point, but the win- ter of 1871-2 proved to be one of unusual— un- 307 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST heard-of severity. The snow caused annoying delays to passenger and freight traffic, as well as costing the company a large amount of money to keep the road open. But the lesson taught was a good one in enabling the company to take such measures as were necessary to protect their road against all possible contingencies in the future, which they have done, by raising their track and building additional snow-sheds and fences. On the "Central" there are nearly 50 miles of snow-sheds; one continuous of 28 miles in length. On the "Union'' there are about 20 miles, and innumerable snow-fences. 'So. 14 Annex. Oarclen of the Gods— This large illustration, number five, is a bit of nature, among the wonders of the country where it is located. In the distance. Pike's Peak rises to view. (See further description on page 82 of this book.) Xo. 15 Annex. State Capitol of Cali- fornia — This is one of the first objects which meets the eye when approaching Sac- ramento from the east. It is a conspicuous landmark. The building occupies the center of four blocks, bounded by lOth and 12th, and by L and N streets. The grounds form three ter- races, slightly elevated above each other, and con- nected by easy flights of steps. They are regularly laid out, and covered with a beautiful sward, closely shaven by the lawn-cutter. They are in- terplanted with shrubs and evergreen trees. The outer border of the lowest terrace is studded with flowers. Its front is towards 10th street, and is 320 feet in length. Approaching it from this point you may regard it as a great central building, from which rises the lofty dome, and having on each side a large wing. A flight of granite steps, 25 feet high by 80 leet in width, leads to a front por- tico of ten columns, through which, and a large hall, the rotunda of 72 feet diameter is found in the center;; and from this, in each story, halls, ele- gantly arched, extend through the front and wings, the State oflices being on either side. Five fen>ale figures ornament the front above the columns. The central one is standing, the remaining four are in sitting postures. They represent war, sci- ence, agriculture and mining. The wings form- ing the flanks of the building are 164 feet above the first or basement story. The north and south flanks cf the building form, respectively, the As- sembly and Senate chambers, the former being 82x72, and the latter 72x62. In the rear center, a circular projection of 60 feet diameter forms the State Library. The first story of 25 feet is of white granite, from neighboring quarries, and is sur- mounted by a cornice of the same. Above this the body of the main dome is surrounded by an open balcony, which is supported by 24 fluted Corin- thian columns and an equal number of pilasters. \bove this balcony the body of the dome is sup- ported by an equal number of ornamental pilas- ters. From these rises the great metallic dome From the top of this dome in turn rise 12 fluted Corinthian pillars, which support the final or small dome, and this is surmounted by the statue of California. The whole interior is one solid mass of iron and masonry. The dome of the interior rotunda, which is of iron ornaments and brick work, is exceed- ingly handsome. The panels and pedestals under the windows are of the beautiful l&nrel, well known in California for its susceptibility to re- ceive a high polish. All the fir.-t floor doors are of walnut, with laurel panels, as arc also the sashes throughout the building. The stories are, respect- ively, 21 feet 6 inches, 20 feet and 18 feet in height. It covers, with its angles, nearly 60,000 surface feet of ground, and measures over 1,200 lineal feet round in all the angles. Se large illustration No. 16. So. 16 Annex. Castellated Rocks at Green River— As the subject of the large illustration. No. 2, is described, on page 106 of the book, it will be unnecessary to repeat it here. So 17 Annex. Memories of Fort Bridger— which were handed to us by one of our friends, who was with the first party of sol- diers who arrived at the place where the fort now stands : " Early in the winter of 1857, on the 23d of No- vember, the winds were blowing cold and bleak over the snow-covered ridges surrounding Bridger —a town with a significant name, but nothing but a name except an old stone building with the ap- pellation of fort attached to it, built by the Mor- mons, and surrounded by a small redoubt and cheva ux defrise pierced for three six-pound moun- tain howitzers." " The U. S. forces, comprising the fifth, seventh and tenth Infantry, second dragoons, and four com- panies of the fourth artillery, the whole under command of Brigadier-General Albert Sidney Johnson, were on their way to Salt Lake City. The fifth, under Major Ruggles ; the seventh, un- der Colonel Morrison; the second dragoons, un- der Colonel Howe; the fourth artillery, under Major Williams, entered Bridger on the 23d ot November, and established a camp ; while a part of the supply train accompanying the expedition, numbering at least 160 wagons, was behind, de- laved bj the heavy snows, entirely separated from the command, and forced to encamp about one mile fiom each other on the Big and Little Sandy Rivers." [Note — These streams are tributaries of Green River on the east, rising near South Pass, about 160 miles north of Bridger.] "While encamped there, a party of Mormons, under command of Orson Pratt, the generalissimo of the so-called Mormon Legion, assisted by one Fowler Wells, another formidable leader of the Mormon church militant, dashed in and sur- rounded the trains in the dark hours of the night, completely surprising the entire party, not one escaping to give the alarm. After taking the arms and equipments from the men, they gave them a very limited amount of provisions to last them through to Leavenworth, Kansas, allowing them at the rate of five head of cattle for twenty men, and then started them off in the wilderness to reach that place — about 1,000 miles distant — with no weapons other than their pocket knives with which to protect themselves against the In- dians, or to procure game when their limited supply of provisions should become exhausted. After accomplishing this soldierly, humane and Christian act, the Mormons set fire to the train, burning up everything which they could not carry away, and retreated, driving the stock with them, while those left to starve turned their faces east- ward. There were 230 souls in that despoiled party, only eigJit of whom ever reached the border settlements; the knife of the savage, and starvation, finishing the cruel work begun by, the merciful Mormons. The survivors reached Leavenworth in June, 1858, bringing the sad intelligence of the fate of their comrades. " The loss of these trains necessarily cut short the supplies in Bridger. The troops were put on short rations, and, to add to their horror, the beef cattle accompanying the expedition had nearly all frozen to death, ^eaving but a few head in camp. " At Black Fork, the command lost over 300 head 30^ heai del a cost keej gOO( mea agai whi< bull Oj eno' On inni Thi' nati it is to V this for whi ram ]anc four by I race nee, laid clos terp OUt( flow 320 you wbi side feet tico hall cen gan the figu The are enc iug first flan sem Six: Giro Stat grai moi the bah thia \bc por ters Fro Cor sm£ ofC T mat is c ing: the kno cei-s wal thrc ivel THE G iRS. (See Annex No. 45.) I AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 308 in one night ; the horses and mules dying in about an equal ratio. Before reaching Bridger, the dragoons were compelled to leave their saddles, which they buried in the snow, the horses being unable to carry them. The animals were com- pelled to subsist on eage-brush, for tv/o-thirds cif the time, and then, to obtain this fibrous shrub, they were compelled to remove snow several feet deep. The men had no other fuel ; no water only as they melted snow, for tbree weeks before reaching Bridger. "When the news arrived at the camp that the trains were destroyed, the troops immediately be- gan to forage for anything that was palatable, well knowing that no supplies could reach them be- fore late in the spring. The snow was then, on an average, from six to seven feet deep, and the game had mostly left the hiils. The rations were imme- diately reduced one-half, but even this pittance failed on the 28th day of February, when one-quar- ter ration per man was issued, being the last of all their stores. Two 100-pound sacks of flour were secured by Major E. R. S. Canby, who gave for them $300 in gold. They were placed in his tent, which stood where the old flag-staft" now stands, and he supposed his treasure secure. "But thai, night a party of men belonging to Company 1, 10th Infantry, commanded by Lieuten- ant Marshall, made a coup (Tetat on tbe tent, pulling out the pins and throwing the tent over the astonished Major, but securing the flour, with which they escaped in the darkness, and suc- ceeded in hiding it about a mile from camp, in the sage-brush. All was confusion. The long- roll was beaten; the troops turned out and an- swered to their names, no one being absent. So the matter ended for the time. The next day, at guard mount, the Major commenced a personal search among the tents for his flour. He found — what? In one tent, two men were cooking a piece of mule meat; in another, he found five men cut- ting up the frozen skin of an ox, preparatory to making soup of it, the only other ingredient to the savory mess being a little flour. Overcome by the sight of so much wretchedness, the Major sat down and cried at his inability to assist them. He asked the men if they could obtain nothing better to eat, and was answered in the negative. "The severity of the suffering endured by the men nearly demoralized them, still they went out foraging, dragging their wasted forms through the snow with great difficulty. Some would meet with success in their hunts at times ; others would not. The mules and horses were either killed and eaten by the men, or died of cold and hunger, which left them without the means of supplying their camp with wood, only as they hauled it themselves. But the men did not murmur. Twenty oi thirty would take a wagon and haul it five or six miles to the timber, and alter loading it with wood, haul it to camp. Each regiment hauled its own wood, thus securing a daily supply. Some days a stray creature would be slain by the hunters, and there would be rejoicing in the camp once more. " Early in the spring of 1858 most of the men de- parted for Salt Lake City, leaving companies B, Dand K, of the 10 Infantry, and company F, 7th Infantry. Twenty-seven men from each company were detailed to go to the pineries, 25 miles away, to cut timber with which to erect quarters. On arriving in the pinery, they found an old saw mill and race, which had been used by the Mormons, and everything convenient but the necessary ma- chinery. Luckily the quarter-master's department had the required machinery, and soon they had a saw mill in good running order. By the 15th of of September, 1858, the quarters were up and ready for use. They were large enough for five companies, including a chapel, hospital, sutler's store, guard house, etc. "The Fourth of July, 1858, was duly observed and honored. The flag-stafi" was raised in the center of the parade ground, the flag hoisted by Major Canby, and prayers said by Major Gatlin. " On the 23d of September, 1858, a large train of supplies arrived, causing great joy among the troops. Two days later three long trains of sup- plies filed through the place on the way to Salt Lake City. No. IH Annex. Hanging; Rock, Utah. —See description on page 131 of this book. No. 19 Annex. Hteani1)oat Rock— The large illustration, No. 6, is one of many beautiful views to be seen while passing through Echo and Weber canyons, l^tah. From our poirt of view the appearance of Steamboat Rock is exceedingly perfect. The lines (seams in the rocks) run grace- fully up ior 300 or 400 feet, and in the sheen of the moon the sage- brush, dwarf cedars, and other bushes, growing along its upper crevices can easily be conjectured into a load of passengers worthy of the mighty vessel; but she stands in stone, and the ship carpenters— the elements — are steadily taking her timbers apart. No. 30 Annex. Paddy Miles' Ride- Mr. Miles, or " Faddy," as he was familiarly called, was foreman to the Casement Broth- ers, who laid the track of the Union Pa- cific railroad. One morning, Paddy started down Echo Canyon with a long train of flat cars, sixteen in number, loaded with ties and iron rails for the road below Echo City, where were then, as now, the station, switches, etc. The reader will remember that from the divide to the mouth of Echo Canyon is heavy grade, no level place on which cars would slack their speed. The train had proceeded but a few miles down the canyon, going at a lively rate, when the en- gineer discovered that the train had parted, and four loaded cars had been left behind. Where the train parted the grade was easy, hence that por- tion attached to the locomotive had gained about half-a-mile on the stray cars. But when discov- ered they were on heavy grade and coming down on the train with lightning speed. What was to be done? The leading train could not stop to pick them up, for at the rate of speed at which they were ap; roaching, a collision would shiver both trains, destroying them and the lives of those on board. There were two men, Dutchmen, on the loose cars, who might put on the brakes, and stop the runaway. The whistle was sounded, but they heard it not; they were fast asleep behind the pile of ties. On came the cars, fairly bounding from the track in their unguided speed, and away shot the locomotive and train. Away they flew, on, around curves and over bridges, past rocky points and bold headlands; on with the speed of the wind, but no faster than came the cars behind them. " Let on the steam." cried Paddy, and with the throttle chock open, with wild, terrible screams of the whistle, the locomotive plunged through the gorge, the mighty rocks sending back the screams in a thousand ringing echoes. " Oft' with the ties,'^ shouted Paddy, once more, as the whistle shouted its warning to the station- men ahead to keep the track straight and free, for there was no time to pause— that terrible train was close on to them, and if they collided. 309 crofutt's new overland tourist the canyon would have a fearful Item aaded to its history. On went the train past the side- tracks, the almost frantic men throwing oft' the ties, in hopes that some of them would remain on the track, throw oft" the runaways, and thus save the forward train. Down the gorge they plunged, the terror keeping close by them, leaping along— almost flying, said one, who told us the tale- while the locomotive strained every iron nerve to gain on its dreaded follower. Again the wild scream of the locomotive of "switches open," rung_out on the air and was heard and understood in Echo City. The trouble was surmised, not known, but the switches were ready, and if the leading train had but the distance it ^ • uld pass on and the following cars be switch ^^. oft" the track, and allowed to spend their force against the mountain side. On shot the locomotive, like an arrow irom the bow, the men throwing over the ties until the train was well-nigh unloaded, when just as they were close to the curve by which the train arrives at the station, they saw the dreaded train strike a tie, or something equally of service, and with ^ desperate plunee, rush down the embankment, mto the little valley and creek below^ " Down brakes," screamed the engine, and in a moment more the cars entered Echo City, and were quietly waiting on the side- track for further developments. The excited crowd, alarmed by the repeated whistling, was soon informed of the cause of these screams, and immediately went up the track to the scene of the disaster, to bring in the dead bodies of the un- fortunate Dutchmen, who were surely crushed and torn in pieces. When they arrived at the scene of the disaster, they found tiie poor unfor- tunates sitting on the bank, smoliiug their pipes and unharmed, having just woke up. The first they knew of the trouble was when they were pitched away from the broken cars on the soft greensward. The debris of car frames, wheels, and ties, gave them the first intimation they had received that something was the matter. UTo. 21 Annex, (wreat Salt I over 20,000 people. The following characteristic document, prepared by the diseased about four years previous to his death, contains his instructions for the conduct of the funeral obsequies. The paper Vv'as read by George Q,, Cannon before the assembled multitude on the day of the funeral, and the instructions therein contained were carried out to the letter. "•I, Brigham Young, wish my funeral services to be conducted after the following manner: When I breathe my last I wish my friends to put my body in as clean and wholesome state as can conveniently be done, and preserve the same for one, two, three or four days, or as long as my body can be preserved in a good condition. I want my coftin made of plump I14 inch redwood boards, not scrimped in length, but two inches longer than I would measure, and from two to three inches wider ihan is commonly made for a person of my breadth and size, and deep enough to place me on a little comfortable cotton bed with a good suitable pillow for size and quality; my body dressed in my Temple clothing and laid nicely into my cof- fin, and the coffin to have the appearance that if I wanted to turn a little to the right or to the left I should have plenty of room to do so ; the lid can be made crowning. At my interment I wish all of my family present that can be conveniently, and the male members wear no crape on their hat& or their coats ; the fe- males to buy no black bonnets, nor black dresses, nor black veils ; but if they have them, they are at liberty to wear them. The services may be per- mitted, as singing and a prayer offered, and if any of my friends wish to say a few words, and really desire, do so; and when they have closed their service, take my remains on a bier and repair to the little burying ground which I have reserved on my lot east of the White House on the hill, and in the southeast corner of this lot have a vault built of mason work, large enough to receive my coffin, and that may be placed in a box, if they choose, made of the same material as the coffin -redwood. Then place flat rocks over the vault, sufficiently large to cover it, that the earth may be placed over it— nice, fine, dry earth — to cover it until the walls of the little cemetery are reared, which will leave me in the southeast corner. This vault ought to be roofed over with some kind of a temporary roof. There let my earthly house or tabernacle rest in peace and have a good sleep until the morn- ing of the first resurrection; no crying, nor mourn- ing with any one that I have done my work faith- fully and in good faith. I wish this to be read at the funeral, providing that if I should die anywhere in the mountains, I desire the above directions respecting my place of burial to be observed ; but if I should live to go back with the Church, to Jackson County, I wish to be buried there. BRIGHAM YOUNG, President of the ChuBch of Jesus Christ of Latter- day Saints. SuNDAT, November 9th, 1873. Salt Lake City, Utah Ter. Brigham Young will ever stand prominently for- ward on the pages of the world's history, as one of the most remarkable men of the nineteenth cen- tury, respected by his followers and admired by the world at large, whose vices and virtues will go hand in hand adown the stream of time. Jfo. 26 Annex IVational Park— The ex- plorations of Dr. Hayden, United States Geol- ogist, have demonstrated that tJiis, our own coun- try, contains natural wonders, which, in extent, grandeur, and wondrous beauty, far surpass those of any other portion of the known world. The result has been, a bill has passed Congress set. ting apart a tract of country 55 by 65 miles in ex- tent as a great National Park, or mammoth pleasure-ground, for the benefit and enjoyment of the people. The entire area within the limits of the reservation is over 6,000 feet in altitude. Almost in the centre of this tract is located the Yellowstone Lake, a body of water 15 by 22 miles in extent, with an elevation of 7,427 feet. The ranges of mountains that hem the numerous val- leys on every side rise to the height of from 10,- 000 to 12,000 feet, and are covered with perpetual snow. This country presents the most wonderful vol- canic appearance of any portion of this conti- nent. The great number of hot springs and the geysers represent the last stages — the vent or es- cape pipes— of these remarkable volcanic mani- festations of the internal forces . All these springs are adorned with decorations more beautiful than human mind ever conceived, and which have re- quired thousands of years for the cunning hand of nature to form. The most remarkable of these geysers throws a column of boiling hot water 15 feet in diameter to a ?neasin-ed altitude of 150 feet. This display is continued for hours to- gether, and so immense is the quantity of water discharged, that during the eruption, the volume of water in the river is doubled. Another throws a column of hot water 200 feet in height, and over a foot in diameter. It is said the gaysers of Iceland, which have been the objects of interest for scien- tists and travelers of the entire world for years, sink into insignificance in comparison with the Hot Springs of the Yellowstone and Fire-hole Basins. The fnost wonderful story about this remark- able region is told by Langford, one of the first discoverers. He says : "At a certain point on the Yellowstone River, the water runs down a steep and perfect grade over a surface of slate-rock, which has become so smooth from the velocity of the rushing torrent, that, at a distance of twenty miles, the friction becomes so great that AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 312 the water is boiling hot." We do not vouch lor the truth of this stury, and we are not certain that Langford will swear to it. The mountain rim of the Yellowstone Lake rises from 1,500 to 4,000 feet above its surface, and, except in two directions, is unbroken. To the west and southwest are breaks in the chain, through one of which appear the outlines of a conspicuous conical peak, 10,500 feet in height. In the mountain system which turiounds the lake are born the tributaries, almost the princii al sources, of three of the largest rivers on the con- tinent. Four of the most importflnt tributaries of the Missouri— namely, the Big Horn, the Yel- lowstone, the Madison aud the Gallatin, have their springs here. Flowing first north, then cast, they strike the Missouri, which, in its turn, flows southeasterly to the Mississippi Valley, where its waters are iilended with the stately stream that empties its tides at least 3,500 miles beow into the Gulf of Mexico. The Snake liiver, whose sources are actually interlaced with those of the Madison and the Yellowstone, turns west- ward, and traverses nearly a thousand miles of territory before it joins the Columbia on its way to the Pacific Ocean. Again, the Green River, rising but a few miles from the sources of the others, seeks the Colorado of the fciouth. which, after innumerable windings through deserts, and a roaring passage of hundreds of miles in the abysses of canyous surpassiug even those of the Yellowstone in grandeur, depth, and gloom, reaches the gulf of California. Penetrating to the lofty recesses where these springs rise, the ex- plorer stands, as it were, astride of the grandest water-shed Id the world. A pebble dropped into one spring touches a water-nerve of the Pacific ; a pebble cast into another touches a similarnerve of the Atlantic Oc«au. It is a thought to cause the wings of the spirit of a man in sucii a place to expand like an eagle's. (See large illustrations, Nos. 35 and 36.) Xo. 37 Annex. Ocean Steam ships.— The steamers of the Occidental and Oriental Line, between San Francisco and Yokohama, leave San Francisco about the 15th of each month. The passage rates are: Payable in IT. Gold Coin. San Francisco to Yokohama, Japan, Hiogo, " Nagasaki, '' Shanghae, China, Hongkong, " Calcutta, India, .id u * $250 00 270 00 290 00 300 00 300 00 450 00 6 0) bC oc r-l =< 03 d ;-4 u