THIG -<► Chic? or(\ g; Dortbnf estorD Kailway PUBLIC LIBRARY COUF T MC COj_ iiji Cla; Book__ - - iN. v^ Nevai Ok Bod rritory CHICAGO OR BEYOND. See that your ticket reads from "CouHcil Bluffs to Chicago via C. & N. W. Ey." Tictet Agentf of all linos West of the Missouri Biver will be glad to sell you tickets via this line. For any inforaaatiou that you cannot get by applying to your nearest ticket agent, artUreft. either of the following : I. H. MARSHALL, W. B. BABCOCK, Ge7i. Afft., J. M. DA VIES, Gen. M., General Agent, No. 8 Windsor Hotel Block, No. 2 New Montgon^jry St., Council Bluffs, la. Denver, Colorado. San Franciscd Cal. W. H. STBNNETT, GenH Pass. Agt., J. D. LAYNG, Gen'l SupermendeA't,^ Chicago, 111. Episcopal Boar Jinl 'aiid Day Schools, nDE3sr^7':E:i^, ooij. BISHOP SPALDING, Rector and President. Wolfe Hall exclusively for Girls and Young Ladies. Jarvis Hall exclusively for Boys and Young Men. Founded m 1868-9.-The Oldest and the Best m the State. Healthy aud delightful situation and surroundings. Strict discipline and thorough train- ing in all branches. Large and comfortable buildings, and pleasant home life. Music a Specialty. As-thmatics cured by the climate. Chi-istmas tsrm begins first Wednesday in September ; Easter term, 1st of February. For catalogues with tsrms and other particulars, apply to the Bishop or to the Principal of either school, at Denver, Colorado. The St. James. D. A. GAGE & CO., Proprietors. JDexT^eT, Oolora^do. Fine lew Five-Story Hotei in th] Centre o! Business. GRAND OPERA HOUSE AND POST-OFFICE DIRECTLY OPPOSITE Flf^EST VIEW OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAIf^S TO BHD m^x) ^'E.oiyi: this.ee szx-es o:f the hotel. Rates, $3 and $4 a Day. Rooms witli Batlis Extra. ALBERT C. H LE, E. M., Ph. D., MILTCN MOSS, Ph. D., President of the Faculty, Professor of Minera logy and Metallurgy, — OP THE Q oLoRADo S tate S chool op M ines. H4ro:&"Moss, METALL|lRGlfi1&S 21 MB3 CHEMISTS, Examine and report oii Min >jsp\p|!k^ 'tiift 'FUrnSCQ Property, and give advice on all mattel*s pertaining 1 a Minm^, ivtetalttirgy and Technicar Chemistry. P. o. BOX 129, ! .- "^: ^ O-olcierL; Oolo. C. p. HENDRIE, Sec'y and Treas. H. BOLTHOFF, Superintendent. HENDRIE & BOLTHOFF MFG. CO, MINING MACHINERY, HOISTING ENGINES, Smelting and Concentrating WorKS. Western Agency for ^_^ J ^ ^T) National Tube Works Company, ^*"^^^ijs i Howe's Improved Scales, Roebling^s Sons' Steel Rope, Knowles' Steam Pumps, General Mine and Mill Supplies. Office and Warerooms, cor. 17th & Wazee Sts., DENVER, COLORADO. A FULL LINE KEPT IN STOCK.; NEW YORK OFFICE, 115 BROADWAY. BOLTHOFF'S PATENT All complete wooded. All sizes from one Pony Mill of 100 lb. Stamp up to 750 lb. Stamp. CHAIN & HARDY, "f^"" W. H. JACKSON & CO.'S 414 LARIMER STREET, DENVER. Booksellers OF Colorado. OF ALL THE Principal Points Of interest in Colorado, New Mexico, Wj^oming" and Utah, Including Yellowstone, National Park And the Ancient Ruins of the South West. 3DE:sCX2.X2="riT7-E C^-'X.ii^XjCt3--CrE E-IESEE. For a condensed description of the KANSAS PACIFIC RAIL WA Y, -NOW KNOWN AS THE- "Kansas DiYision" I Union Pacific Railway, THE COUNTRY THROUGH WHICH IT IS BUILT- SEE PAGE 48 FOR A FULL DESCRIPTION OF COLORADO, Its Railways, Agricultural Resources, Mines of (5old,SilYer,an(l other Precious Metals ITS WATERING PLACES, GRAND SCENERY, ETC., -BUY- CROFUTT's Crip-Sack Guide. THE MAGNIFICENT ENGRAVINGS COST NEAR $10,000. SOLD ON ALL TRAINS. We were all little Jokers once. Utah's best crop. Photographed from life, by Savage, Salt Lake City. CROFUTT'S New Overland TOXJPIIST, AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. CONTAINING A CONDENSED AND AUTHENTIC DESCBIPTION OF OVER One Thousand Three Hundred Cities, Towns, Villages, Stations, Govern- ment Fort and Camps, Mountains, Lakes, Rivers, Sulphur, Soda and Hot Springs. Scenery, Watering Places and Summer Besorts; avhere To look for and hunt the Buffalo, Antelope, Deer and other game; Trout Fishing, etc., etc. Jji fact, to tell you what is worth seeing — ivhere to see it — irhere to go — how to go — and whom to stop ivith while passimi over the ]}m\ KANSy^S, CEf(Tf|AL /ND SOUTHEl^N P/CIFIC I|^AlLI|Oy^DS, Their Branches and Connections, by Bail, Water and Stage, FROM SUNRISE TO SUNSET, AND PART THE WAY BACK; Through Nebraska, Wyoming, Utah, Montana, Idaho, Nevada, California, Arizona and New Mexico. Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1883, by Thk Overland Publishing Co., in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. B^" &P:0. ^. CROFXirT, AUTHOR OF "GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE," "CROFUTT'S TRANS-CONTINENTAL tourist" AND "CROFUTT'S GRIP-SACK GUIDE OF COLORADO." OMAHA, NEB. AND DENVER, COL. : THE OVERLAND PUBLISHING COMPANY Sold by News Agents on the Railroads, at News Stands and at the Book Stores throughout the United States. Barkalow Bros., General News Agents, Union Pacific Railway and Branches ; Missouri, Kansas & Texas R. R. ; Kansas City, Ft. Scott & Gulf Railway ; Ti'aasti? Cjty, Lawrence & Southern Railway. Bailroad News Co., on Atchison, Topeka & Santa h'e; ihe lieurfJ it Rio Grande, and BurUngton & Missouri in Neb. Eli S. Denison. General News Agent, Central and Southern I'ar^iflc Railroads ; General Agent fur the Pacific Coast, Sjioxaifiouto ajid San Frap-jisco. ■ ■' ■ I k. •« Ki\ • i^ A ^-^'" tOlJrtlO-f. , _ ^ _' 15th Volume— 1883. i PREFACE. With the world as the book of nature, God as the author, and the Bible as a preface, the precedent for wiiting a preface is established; and woe be £o the Scribe who ignores precedent and custom— he could not live on this planet. At the present day the preface of a book is read by the public— if at all —in the light of an apology, wherein the author is expected to explain, first, why he did not do better, and, second, why he wrote at all. First— We have spared neither time, pains nor money to make this a perfect book. Our statements are concise, plain, unadorned, and, we be- lieve, truthful in every particular. Yet we should shudder at the charge of being absolutely perfect. Second— We wrote this book for Money and Love. For money to help the poor. For love of the far western country— the land of the "Golden Fleece." For love of its broad plains and lofty mountains, its free pure air, healthful climate, magnificent scenery, unrivalled resources, and its unaffected, whole-souled people. We have taken the traveler with us— in a chatty way— on the longest trip ever attempted by any author in any guide book in the world, and have recorded a telegram of the most important facts and items of inform- ation in a trip of over 15,000 miles by rail, steamer and stage coach. We have passed over the longest railroad line in the world, the broadest plains, the loftiest mountains, the finest agricultural and grazing lands, and the most barren deserts ; we have climbeti from sunrise to eternal snow, only to glide down into perpetual summer, and the orange groves and vine- yards of the "Land of the Angels." We have crossed a level prairie 500 miles in width, then over the most rugged mountains, with frightful chasms almost beneath us, 2,500 feet in depth; and through 100 miles of snow sheds and tunnels. Again, we have stood beneath a dome rising 6,000 feet above our heads, and trees 400 feet in height, and 48 feet in diameter; nave strolled amid the redwoods, where they grow so thick that were they felled the ground would be covered to a depth of sixty feet. W6 have passed through the celebrated Echo, Weber, Mlcf he 7^J i^ over" the greal Jthe Bit\ tpiui's Slide" a\ S.^ta^ dfuf^^.^t^^th j( Colorado desert, around r and over the Gree^i and d the great "Sink" of the |ts of boiling suli^hur on but landing safely at the Humboldt and "Cape Horn "an Black waters, ech Desert; descend either hand, and Golden Gate. The scenery dn tnis route has been the most varied ; we have S,2-i2 feet above, and 366 feet below sea level; have taken our breakfast amid the eternal snow, and our supper in a land of perpetual summer, and have glided down from far above "timber line" into a region of continuous bloom, where the luscious fruits ripen each day' of the year. The author first began his explorations of the Trans-Mississippi coun- try in 1860, as a "Pilgrim," and upon the completion of the Pacific railroad line, wrote the ^rsi descriptive guide of the roads— from actual observa- tion— the " Great Trans-Continental Eailroad Guide " of 1869 : Soon "Cro- futt's Tourist" followed, the publication of which was continued thereaf- ter. The popularity of these books was so great that the sale aggregated, in fourteen years, over 500,000 copies. The present book describes more than four times the extent of coun- try of any book heretofore published, and is'profusely illustrated by nearly 100 beautiful engravings, most of which were photographed, designed, drawn and engraved expressly for the author of this work. It also con- tains the best and viost complete map— in colors— ever published, the plates of which cost over $4,000. Annex— A department in the back part of this book, originated by the author, under which will be found a mass of condensed information, indi- rectly pertainingto the subject-matter of this work; and under which also contains descriptions of the large, double-page illustrations. From the first issue of our book, in 1869, imitators have been numer- ous ; no less than thirty-one " Guide-books," "Tourists' Hand-books " and "Books of Travels across the Continent," etc., etc., have been issued, most of which were compiled in the East— without their compilers traveling over one foot of the route, or, at least, not spending more than a few days on the road— while we have spent the best part of every year since 1860 ac- quiring the information— every item of which we are prepared to verify. To some "correspondents "across the continent our books have proved an unusual " God-send," enabling them to minutely describe the wonders of the trip passed in the night, while sleeping soundly in a palace car, equally as well as though they were awake and in perpetual daylight. Now we do not mean to complain of these experimentei's, as they are doubtless "good fellows," but we do expect the courtesies usually ex- tended by all honorable writers. GEO. A. CEOFUTT. Denver, Colo., March 1883. See TIME TABLES— from page 2G2 to '27-i. INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. targe View^s. No. American Progress 1 Big Trees, Fallen Monarch. 5 Cape Horn, Columbia Biver 10 Castellated Kocka at Green River 2 Fort Point, Golden Gate 4 Falls of the Yellowstone 8 Falls of the Williamette 9 Mirror Lake, Yo-Seniite. . . . 12 Mt. Shasta, California 15 Nevada Falls, Yo-Semite. . . 13 Sutter's Mill Bace 3 Steamboat Bock, Echo 6 Summit Sierras 14 State Capital of California. . 16 San Francisco and Surroud- ings 18 The Geysers, California 17 Valley of the Yellowstone.. 7 Wood Hauling in Nevada. . . 11 Illustrations. Page. American Biver Canon 130 Bee Hive Geyser 21 Burning Bock Cut 75 Big Mule Team 28 Brigham Young 8J Brigham Young's Eesidenoe 97 Bloomer Cut 108 Before the Bailroad ILS Bird's Eye xiev/ of the 'Loop' 214 Bird's Eye View of Plains . . 13 Crossing the Truckee Biver. 73 Cacti Giganti 235 Page. Crossing the "Loop" 215 Cattle Brands 254 Crossing the " Bange " on Snow Skates GO Devil's Slide,Weber Canon.. 33 Dale Creek Bridge 37 Down the W eber Biver 46 Donner Lake Boating Party 98 Devil's Gate, Weber Canon.. 75 Eagle Bock Bridge 110 Eagle Gate 109 Entering the Palisades 106 Eureka 150 Finger Bock, Weber 42 Forest View, Foot Hill 99 First Steam Train 56 First Mountain Express.... 152 General Offices U. P 23 "Giantess," Geyser 113 "Giant" Geyser 146 Hanging Bock, Am. Fork. . . 15 Hanging Bock, Echo Canon.. 26 High School, Omaha 29 Humbolt House 138 Hydraulic Mining 158 Interior View Snow Shed ... 72 Interior View Mormon Tab- ernacle 85 Indians Watching the Pacifle Bailway • 233 James Bridger 77 Leland Standford, C, P. B. B 114 Looking up at Cape Horn. . . 160 Livermore Pass Tunnel 177 Missouri River Bridge 22 Monument Bock, BlackHills 44 Mormon Temple 92 Pagh. Mormon " Holiness to the t Lord" Ql Map of Boutes in California 120 Orange Grove and Palms ... 10 Overland Pony Express 151 One Thousand Mile Tree. . . 84 Profile Map U. P. By 35* Packing to Virginia City. . . . 115 Palisades of the Humboldt.. 58 Pricky, the Horned Toad... 81 Pulpit Bock, Echo Canon... 83 Profile Map of C. P. ti. B. . . 117 Palace Hotel . . 189 Bounding Cape Horn 159 Sidney Dillon. U. P. By 17 Seal of California 150 Steamer "Solano" 186 Summit of the Mountains. . . 55 Seals and Sea Lions 65 Snow Galleries 67 Starvation Camp 71 Snow Sheds 143 Seal Bocks & Pacific Ocean. 195 San Pedro's Wife 223 Three Tetons 19 "The Grand," Geyser 104 The Santa Bitas 239 T^he Last Spike 118 The Maden's Grave 133 Truckee Biver 136 Utah's Best Crop.. Frontispiece. Union Depot, Kansas City. . 48 Union Depot Hotel 20 View of Salt Lake City 69 Yo-Semite FaUs 101 Yucca Palm 221 GENERAL IKDEX. Cities, Towns, Villa- ges and Stations. Page Acampo 176 Acton 218 Adams 43 Abilene 53 Adonde 233 Agate 56 Alpha 130 Page. Page. Page. Athlone 210[Benton 31 Bronco 150 Anaheim 224|Benicia 187 Brigham 106-116 Atkins 44 Bennington 108 [Bridgeport 185 Applegate 163 Bernal 204JBiggs 169 Archer 45|Berenda 211 Bryan 75 Arcade 16o|Be-o-wa-we 133 Bridger 78 .\royo 56 Bethany 178iBrighton 173 Argenta 134 Barro 197|Brown's 140-145 Arimo 109 .Big Spring 39jBrookville 54 Armstrong SOlBingham 93iBrowni5on 41 Alameda 181' Aspen 79! Bitter Creek 70:Brule 39 Ahla 213 Auburn 164,Bishoi)S 12GiBuckeye 170 Alpine 218 Alda 34 Alta 95-157 Alkali 39 Altamont 179 Alder 62 Ahna 80 Alvin 27 American Fork 96 Ames 31 Andrews 220 Andersons 144-170 Antelope, Neb 43 Antelope, Cal 16; Antioch 172 Antioch Station 179 Anita 170 Austin 135 Black Buttes 70 Buda 34 Aurora 6^1 Biack Bock 102 Buck Creek 51 Bautas 178,Bxackfoot Ill Bunker Hill 54 Bakersfield 213! B.oomfleld loaBullion 129 Battle Creek 109 jBiL.e Creek 116|Burns 44 Battle Mountain 1351 B ue Canon 157] Butte 112 Batavia 185 Bosler 39 Buford 57 Barton 40 Bowie 241 Bushnell 43 Bavaria 53 Bovine 123 Burlingame 204 Baxter 71 Box Springs 130 Bealville 216 Box Elder 56 Belmont 204 Boise 122 Bennett 50 Bonneville 116 Beaver Canon Ill Boca 150 Belle Marsh 109 Borden 211 Belvoir 5liBrady Island 37 Benson 239 Brainard 27 Buena Vista 162 Byers 56 Cabazon 229 Carson 147 Carlyle 55 Carquinez 137 Cachisa 240 CaUstoga 197 GENERAL IND E X. — Con tinned, Cities, Towns, Villa- ges and Stations continued. Page. Call's Fork 106 Page. David City 27 Darrance 54 Dana 65 ! Gey serville Decota 180IGerard Page. Gannett 38 Gardner Pass 131 200 21' Calieute 2.6 Deeth 125 Gibbon 3-i Cana 170 Demiug 242GiIaCity 232 cactus 230 Deer Creek 98 Gila Bend 234 Castle 176|Deep Wells 130|Gilmore 25 Camas Ill Denver Junction 40 Gilroy 207 Cameron 217 Desert 142iGolconda 137 Cannon 18; cascade 156 castle Rock 82 Castro\ Ule 208 Carlin 128 carter 77 carbon 64 Carbondale, Kan 51 Carbondale, Cal 175 Carnadero 207 Casa Granda 236 Camjitonville 163 cedar Point 56 cedar 125-131 central City 32 CenTerville. . Cbappel 41 Cliurch Buttes 76 Clieyenne WeUs 55 C'lieyenne, Wy 45 Chico 109 Cbualar. De-wey^-iUe 106 Gold Hill Detroit 53 Gold Run 158 Devil's Gate 86 Gospel Swamp 225 Diamond 131 Gorham 54 Dixon 185, Goshen 212 Dillon 112 Grainfleld 55 Dix 43 Granite Point 140 Dexter 39| Grayling 112 Downeyville 163 Grinnell 55 Donahue 198 Dutch Flat 157 Dragoon Summit 240 Dos PalmOS 230 Downey 224 Draper 96 Duncan's Mill.s. Grangers 76 Grants ville 51 Green River 72 Grass Valley 162 Gridley 169 Greenville 67 Duncan 32 Dunham 169 Echo 83 EdwardsviUe .50 Eagle Rock ... .< .... Ill 208| Ellis, Cal 179 Chapman, Kan 53jEgbert 44 chapman, Neb 32!Edson 65 Cicero 175: El Casco 229 Charlestown 24o!EUis,Kan 54 Clarkston 107 Ellsworth 54 20.3- Granite Canon 57 Cisco 157 Clay Centre 52 Clarks.Neb 32 Clarks, Nev 144 Clear Creek, Cal 170 Clear Creek, Neb 27 Clipper Gap 163 Clifton 52-107-241 Cloverdale 200 Clyde 52 Cluro 1.32 Colliugston 107 Colver 5 C. H. Mills 159 Colfax 161 Colorado Junction . . 56 Coin 137 Coyote 36 Contention : 240 Como 64 Concordia 52 Colusa 171 Columbus 31 Colton, Neb 41 Colton, Cal 228 Croydon 85 Cooper i^ake 63 Grand Island 32 Gurnevville 200 Hallviile 70 Half-way House 103 Hallack 126 Hamelton 131 Hampton 77 Hamlet 202 Harney 59 Harrisvillo 105 Hai'psr's 63 Havens 32 Havward's ISO Hay Ranch 129 Havs 54 Healdsburg 200 Hendrev 37 Hillsdale 44 HiUiard 79 Hoge 50 Hollester 207 Elko 7.... 12 Elk Grove 175 Elm Creek, Neb 35 Flm Creek 54 Ehnu-a 185 Elk horn 26 Emigrant Ga]j 157 Empire, Nev 147 Emory 82 Essex 1.50 E vanston 80i Honey ville 106 Evans, Nev 129IHooker 170 Eureka 1.31-1*8! Hot Springs 142 Ewing 167!Howard 203 Fairfield 185jHowells 03 Fermont 50 Huffakers 144 Farmington 88 Humboldt 130 Flowing Wells 230 Florin 1^5 Fink's Springs 230 Fillmore 68 Folsom 173 Fort Harker 54 Fort Riley 52 Fort Fred Steele 66 Fort Saunders CI Fowler 212 Corinne llOjForest City 163 Cornwall 179 Cottonwood 170 Council Bluffs 16 Cozad 36 Cheston, Cal 185 Creston, Wy 68 Curtis 183 Cucamonga 228 Frauktown 14 Franklin 108 Fremont, Neb 2' Frisco 102 Freeport 172 Hugo : 56 Huron 212 Button's 63 Hj-dePark.; 108 Hyrum 107 Idaho, Idaho 122 Independence 124 Indio 229 Iron Point 137 Page. Kansas City 49 KaysvUle 88 Keen 216 Kearney Junction. _. 34 Kelton 122 Ringsburg 212 ii.ings ville 52 Kinney's 51 Ivit Carson 56 Knights Landing. 171-183 Kress Summit 162 Lake 122 Latham 70 Laramie 61 Lake View 145 Lava Siding Ill Lawrence, Kan 50 Lawrenceburg 52 Lake Point 103 Lang 219 Lathrop 178 Leavenworth 50 Lehi 96 Lenape 50 Lewistown 108 Leroy 78 Lerdo 213 Lincoln, Neb 27 Lincoln 166 Linwood 50 Li verm ore 179 Little York 158 Little Cottonwood. , . 93 Live Oak 169 Lockwood 32 Lodge Pole 41 Lodi 176 Logan 108 Lomo 189 Lookout 03-147 Loray 124 Lordsburg 241 Lorenzo 180 Loring 50 Los Angeles 220 Lovelocks 140 Lucin 123 Maracopa 234 Madera 211 Madroue 206 Malad 127 Mammoth Tank 230 Manhattan 52 Market Lane Ill Martinez 179 Mariposa 210 Marston 76 Marysville 167 Matlin 122 Maxwell 37 Mayfield 205 :McCounells 175 McPhersou, Kan 53 lone 175|McPherson, Neb 37 lUinoistown 161 Mead 27 Iowa Hill 161 ! Medicine Bow 64 Jossleyn 36 Jordan 93 Juab 101 Julesburg 40 Davisville 183lGarfield . Fresno 212j Junction, Poseville. 164 Fulton 200 Junction Citv, Kan. . 52 Gait 175 Junction, Cal 201 103 Junction, Utah . Medina 51 Melrose, Cal 181 Melrose, Mon 112 Menlo Park 205 Me-uo-kew 52 Meudon 107 Mercede 210 Mercer 27 GENERAL INDEX. — Continued Cities, Toiviis, Villa- ges and Stations. continued. Page. Mescal '23'.) OrovUle 1(57 Osino 127 Otto .56 Mesquite '.:30,Otego 124 Michigan Bar l7:5jOvertou 35 Midway 1'. 9 O.xford 107-109 Page.; Page. Oreana 140i Ross Fork lU9;st. Gaorge. Page. 51 Milbra 204 MUlard 2(i Milf ord, Kau 52 Milford, Utah 101 MQlCity 139 Mill Station 145 Millis 80 MillviUe 107 Mineral 130 Mil-age, Colo 50 Mirage, Nev 142 Miser 03 Mississippi Bend 172 Modesto 210 MoneU 70 Monida Ill Mojava 217 Mono 100 Montello 123 Monterey 208 JVIontpelier 1U8 Monument 122 Moore's 124 Moore's Summit 50 Monte 227 Moleen r28 Mokelumne 175 Morano 210 Morganville 62 Mound House 148 Murphys 195 Mystie 150 Katividad 224 Nadeau 217 Napa 196 Nevada, Cal 163 Napa Junction. . .185-196 N. E. Mills 163 Newton 107 Newhall 219 Newport 224 Newman 51 New Castle 164 New Cambria .53 Nelson 169 Nephi 101 Nichols 36 Niles Junction 04 Niles 180 North Platte 38 North Bend 31 Nord 170 North San Juan 103 Norwalk 224 Oakland, East 182 Oakland, 'Wharf 189 Oakland 182 Oak Knoll 197 Oakville 197 Odessa 35 OTallons 39 Ogalalla 39 O&den, Kan 52 Oj,den, Utah 87 Olema 202 Omaha 23 Ombey 122 Painted Rocks 234 Palisade 129 Pantauo 239 Paja,ro 207 Paradise 107 Paris 108 Roscoe Rossville 52 Rozel 121 Rve Patch 139 Rutherford 197 Russel 54 Savanna 227 SaltLake 90 Sacramento 165 Santa Monica 221 Santa Ana 224 Santa Clara, Cal 205 Payson liioi Santa Cruz 205 Paddock 32 Santa Rosa 199 Plum 3(.lsan Lcaudro 180 Papillion 25 San Pablo 188 Peru 75 Petaluma 199 Petersons 80 Percy 64 Pequop 124 Perry ville 51 Peko 126 Pinole 188 PortNeuff 109 Pasadena 225 Piedmont 79 "icacho 230 Pilot Knob 230 Pine Station 130 Pino 104 Pino Bluffs 43 Puente 227 Piute 137 Placerville 17J Pleasauton 180 Pleasant Grove 99 Pluiu Ci-eek 30 Pomona 227 Point Rocks 70 Pottrr 42 Proctors 150 Prosser Creek 150 Provo 99 Providence !• i'_ Promontory 11 < Pyramid 211 Q iiarry 116 Raspberry 1.^9 Raveua 219 Rawliug (■7 Reeds 17 RedButtes i San Simon 241 San Bruno 204 San Miguel 204 San Gabriel 220 San t'ernando 220 San Francisco 190 San Juan, S 207 Han Juan, N 163 San Rafael 201 San Quintin 201 San Jose 206 San Joaquin 227 San Mateo 204 SanUiego 224 San Juan Capistrano 225 San Bernardino 228 San Gorgonio 229 Salida 210 Salt Wells 71 Salina, Kan 63 Sahnns 208 Sandy 94 Salvia 144 Sargents 20' Santaquin. . . 100 Sand Creek 218 Seco 1-22 Sesnia 170 Si'paration 68 S.'iiulvfda 220 Sfiitinel 231 Seven Palms 22;i Schuvler, Colo. Schuvler, Neb 31 Sheridan, Cal 167 Sheridiin, Kan 55 Sherman .• 57 Redwood City 20 1 Shoshone 134 Redding 170ShadyRun 157 RedBluffs 170 Silver Lake 52 RedDesert 70|Shelton 34 Red Dog 1.58 Silver Creek 32 Red Rock 112-236 Silver City, Ner 148' Reno, Kan 50 Silver City, Idaho . . . 122 ' Rono.Nev 144]Siegel 51' Rio Vista 172j Sidney 41 Riverside 27-111-228 Silver Station 148 Richmond 108-24(1 Sinipson 64 Richland, Kan 51 Soledad 209; Yuba Station 1(37 Killito 230, Soto 170| Yuba City 168 Ripon 210:Solon G8| You Bet 158-1(52 Rose Creek 139!Sonoma 198 Youtsville 197 Rock Creek 63 Springfield 108|York 100 Rock Springs, Kan.. 54 Springville 100 Valaparaso 27 Rock Springs, Wv... 71 Spring Hill Ill j Valley Ford 202 RoclUin 164 Spanish Fork 100 Valona 187 Rogers 31, St. Mary's 52; Vallejo Junction .... 187 39, St. Helena 197 Stevenson 35 Stein's Pass 241 Steamboat Springs . . 145 Storms 162 Stormsburg 27 Stockton, Cal 176 Stockton, Utah 104 Stone House 137 Stranger 50 Strong's Canon 155 Spach-a 227 Stauwix 234 Suisi^n 185 Solomon 53 Solano 187 Summit, C.P 1.5.5 Summit, U.N 107 Sumner 213 Summit, E. &P 131 Summit Siding, Kan 54 ' Summit Siding, Neb 25 Sunol 180 Swan Lake 109 Table Bock 70 Tamarack 157 Tamalpais 201 Taylors vUle 202 Tecoma 123 Tehamma 170 Tennants 206 Terra Cotta 64 Terrace 123 Tehachapi 217 Texas Hill 2.34 Thompson 196 Thayer 71 Thumel 32 Tie Siidng .59 Tipton, U. P 70 Tipton, C. P 213 Tiblow 50 Tooele City 103 Tomales 202 Tombstone 240 Toano 124 Tocoluma 202 Toltec 236 Topeka 51 Tortuga 230 Tonganoxie 50 Truckee 150 Tracy, U. P 44 Tracy, C. P. 178 Transfer Grounds. . . 20 Tres Pinos 207 Tremont 184 Tryone Mills 203 Tucson 236 Tulasco 126 Tulare 213 Tule Ii7 Uintah 86 Yuma City 246 GENERAL I N D E X , — C on t i nu e d . Cities, To^vIls, Ailla- ges ami Stations. continued. Page. Valley 27 Vallejo 185 Verdi 150 Vina 170 Virginia Dale 80 Visalia 212 Vista 144 Virginia Citv, M 113| Virginia City, N 148 Victoria 54 Page. Wa-Keeney 53 Walker 54 Wakefield 52 Wallace 5-1 Wamego 52 Wadsworth 142 Wasatch, Wy 81 Wasatch. Utah 94 Wash-a-kie VO Washoe 145 Wahoo 27 Waterloo 27 Watsonville 207 Wan en Sfi Washington 183 Weber Quarry. Weber Webster Walters Wells Wellsville Weston White Pl.aius.. . Wheatland Whitney Wild Horse Winnamncca.. . Wilmington Windsor Willard Pag If . ... 107 ... 8G . .. 183 ... 229 ... 125 ... 107 ... 107 ... 142 ... 167 ... 106 ... 56 ... 137 ... 223 ... 200 ... 105 Page. Wilkins 71 Willai-ds 129 Wilcox 64-240 Williams, Mon. , . 111-184 Willow Island 36 Wood's Crossing.. .. 89' Wier 40 \yillson's 54 Williamson 51 Wolcotts 66 Woodland 183 Wood Kiver 34 Wyoming 58 Wyandotte 50 Yuma 230 U. S. Forts and Camps Page. Omaha Barracks 24 Camp at Sidney 42 Camp Lowell 2.38 Camp Bowi 240 Ft: Kearny 84 Ft. McPherson 37 Ft. Douglas 92 Ft. Sedgwick 40 Ft. Morgan 43 Ft. D. A. Russell 46 Ft. Larimie 46 Ft. Fetterman 46 Et. Casper 40 Ft. Reno 46 Ft. Phil. Kearney 46 Ft. C. F. Smith 46 Ft. Saunders 01 Ft. Yuma 231 Ft. Fred Steele 06 Ft. Bridger "T it. Halleck I'-^ti Ft. Riley 52 Ft. Harker 5-1 Ft. Walaoe 55 Ft. Hall Ill Mare Island 185 Mineral and Medical .'(prings. HOT AND COLD. Pages 67, 71, 76, 79, " 89, 90, 90, 101, " 102, 105, 106, 112, " ....113, 127, 133, 134, " 137, 142. 145, 1.50, " 184, 190, 198, 199, " 200, 207, 209, 230, " 238. Kailroads. Page. American Fork 96 Amadoro Branch 175 Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe 240-242 Bingham Canon 93 Burlington & Missouri 32-34 Black Hills " 32 Carbondale Branch 51 Central Pacific 115 Carson & Colorado 148 California Pacific 183 California Northern 167 Denver & Rio Grande West- ern 67 Echo & Pork Citv 83 Eureka & Palisade 129 Fremont & Rlkhorn 29 Grand Island & bt. Paul Br. 33 Page. Junction City & Ft. Kearny 52 Kansas Pacific 40 LosAngeles & Independence 221 Leavenworta, Lawrence & Galveston 51 Leavenworth Branch 50 North Pacific Coast 200 Northern 184 Nevada Central 135 New Railways 104 Nevada County 101 Oregon Short Line 70 Republican Valley 27 Sioux City & Pacific 27 Santa Cruz 207 San Pablo & Tulare 178 SanFranciscoctNorthPacific 198 Sacramento Valley 173 Southern Pacific 203 Stockton & Visalia 176 Stockton & Copperopolis 176 San Diego Railroad 224 Salina & Southwestern 53 South Pacific Coast 205 St Joseph & Denver 33 Solomon Railroad 53 Union Pacific 18 Utah Central 88 Utah Southern 92 Utah Western 102 Utah & Northern 105 Virginia & Truckee 144 Wasatch & Jordan VaUey . . 94 Western 100-104 Wilmington Div 223 Annex Index. No. 1 American Progress. . . 243 2 Passage Ticket Mem. 243 " 3 Baggage Check '■ 243 " 4 Rates of Fare 244 " 5 Our Western Country 244 " 6 High School 248 " 7 First Steam Train. . . 56 " 8 TheMadroneTree... 164 9 The Maiizanita 164 " 10 Jack Slade 248 " 13 Snow Difficulties 249 " 15 State Capital of Cal . . 173 " 10 Castellated Rocks... 72 " 17 Memories of Ft.Brid'r 249 " 18 Hanging Rock, Utah. 97 " 19 Steamboat Rock 250 " 20 Paddy Miles' Ride. . . 250 " 21 Salt Lake 251 " 22 •' •' 251 " 23 Discov'v of Calif or'a. 226 Page. No. 23 The Coast Range 226 •• 23 The Rainy Season ... 226 " 24 Hauling Ore in Hides 146 " 25 Life of Bigham Young 251 " 26 National Park 252 " 27 Ocean Steamships... 253 " 28 Col. Hudnut's Survey 253 " 29 Western Stock Rais'g 254 " 30 The Great Cave 255 " 31 Nevada Falls 209 " 32 Pioneer Mail 218 " 33 The Donner Party. . . 256 " 34 Roll 'Em Through .... 256 " 35 Val. of theYellows'e. 257 " 36 Falls " •' 257 " 37 " " Willi'ette. 215 " 38 Cape Horn 232 " 39 Wood Hauling 232 " 40 Mirror Lake 209 " 41 Pony Exiiress 151 " 42 Sierra NevadaMoun's 138 ,. 43 Mt. Shasta 214 „ 44 Woodward Gardens . 257 „ 45 The Geysers 184 „ 46 Bird's Eye View 214 „ 47 Ancient Ruins 257 „ 48 Painted Rocks 2.58 „ 49 Viewing Progress. . .. 2.58 „ 50 Palace Hotel 2.58 ,. 52 "Pricikey" 126 „ 53 Route to Y'o-Semite.. 184 „ 55 The "Boss Cactus"... 184 „ 58 Sacramento Depot. .. 173 „ 63 Manmioth SnowPlow 126 „ 04 Arizona 2.59 „ 05 EmigrantSleepigCars 260 „ 60 Black Hills R. R 261 Miscellaneous. Page. Calaveras Big Trees 170 Celifornia Windmills 175 Down the Sacramento 172 Excursions No. 1 193 " 2 190 " 3 198 " 4 200 " 5 203 First Gold Discovery 174 Hints 14 Humboldt Well 125 Laramie Plains 01 Y'o-Semite Valley and Big Trees 212 Montana 112 New Alemaden Quick-Silver Mines • 206 Sutro Tunnel 148 Ocean to Ocean, OVERLAND. Aroundthe Circle. SuNKisE— As the city of Halifax, in the Province of Nova Scotia and Do- minion of Canada, is the extreme eastern terminus of tlie .a^rand system of Nortli American railways, which extend from its Atlantic portal across the continent 3,646 miles to San Fran- cisco, its Pacific brother, it would seem to be the most proper point in the East from which we should fir^t start on our journey with the tourist or emigrant for the same destination. At Halifax, the morning- sun, as it rises from its apparent cold water bath in the broad ocean on the east, casts its golden rays down upon the firat rail- track that spans a continent, and from the moment the light strikes these iron bands of civilization and progress, it seems to follow them up, step by step, through populous cities, over mighty rivers, across broad, treeless. ]>lains, and towering sno'w-.capped moun- tains, on, on! toward the tropical re- gions of the Orient. Every foot of the route, every object of interest or be- ing is minutely inspected, while roll- ing over to its daily bath, in the mighty Pacific Ocean of the West. Our course is in the same general direction, but our lime will be slower; as we shall linger by the Avay, and shall, after no- ting the principal routes east of tlie Missouri River, take the traveler with us over the Union, Kansas, and Cen- tral Pacific railroads to the Pacific coast— sunset; thence eastward over the Southern Pacific via Los Angeles, Yuma, Tucson, through Arizona and New Mexico, back toward sunrise, making agrand circle, one continuous run by rail of over 4,000 miles, which, with the numerous side tours by rail, steamer and stage, will comprise full 15,000 miles of travel. Come along icith ris ! but first dis- card the dress-coat of style, and put on the wrapper of simplicity and ease; fill your purse with coin, open your eyes and let us learn something of the extent, riches, varied resources, gran- deur and -wonders of what was a few years ago known only as the " Great American Desert." We shall first take a run over the va- rious Eastern branches of the Union Pacific, the "Denver Short Line" in- cluded, interview the noted gold fields of the Black Hills of Dakota and climb to the summit of their namesakes of Wyoming, the highest station on the road, where we can look off into the great State of Colorado, with her mag- nificent mountain ranges, peaks, ]>arks and mineral wonders. Then, after whirling over the broad plains of Laramie, we shall mount to the sum- mit of the"Eockies," and maybe, amid the clouds, stand astride the great Continental Divide. Descending, we rattle through the canons of Echo. Weber and the Devil's Gate to the land of Zion, where moth- ers-in-law and white-haired babies are in the majority. We shall glance at the resources of the territory and spin all over Utah by tlie various railroads, visit the noted mines, temples, tabernacles and Mor- mon wonders, ascend to the " Mount 12 crofutt's new overland tourist of Prophecy," bathe in the"Dead Sea," interview the famous soda and hot springs, snatch a rose from the garden of the Prophet, then bound away to the northward over the Utah & Noi'th- ern to Montana; again scalo the great mountain divide and take a peep at the Yellowstone National Park, the lakes, springs, geysers, waterfalls, etc. — the " Avonderland." We will stand by the spot V/'here the "last spike" was driven, which united the East and the West by iron bands, and over where the "ten miles of track was laid in one day;" we shall run along beside Salt Lake, — the great dead sea, — down the Humboldt, and over the Eureka & Palisade railroad to the Eureka and White Pine country The "Palisades," as well as the "Lake" and the " Sink " of the Humboldt will be visited, as also the "Reese Eiver Country," Nevada Desert, and the hot, spurting springs of Nevada. We shall visit the most noted silver country in the world — Virginia City, Gold Hill and Carson, via the Virginia & Truc- kee railroad; we will take a trip over Lake Tahoe and flsh in Conner; as- cend the Sierras and roll through more than fifty miles of snow sheds and tun- nels, one continuing for 28 miles. Then around " Cape Horn " and to the old mining towns of Grass Valley and Ne- vada, over the Nevada County Nar- row Gauge railroad, one of the finest in the world. We will take a run all ov- er California, visit the " Big Trees," Yo-Semite Valley, the " Geysers," " Redwood Forests," " Seal Rocks," "Quicksilver Mines, "Santa Cruz, San- ta Bai'bara, Monterey, Calestoga, and the grape vineyards and wine cellars of Sonoma and Napa counties. We will visit Mount Shasta and the Upper Sacramento Valley; Coloma, where gold was first discovered ; Mt. Diablo, the lofty peak of the Contra Costa,and Mt. Tamalpais, the huge sentinel of the Coast Range, at the Golden Gate, where we are apparently near sunset. After taking a hasty glance at Oregon and the Columbia River, we shall di- rect our course south and eastward, toxvard Sunrise, up the great San Joa- quin Valley, over the " Loop " of the " Tehachapie Pass," and out on the great "Mojave Desert," rolling down the infamous Soledad Cailon,— the "Robbers' Roost," — and through the San Fernando Mountains, out into the valley, and to the " city of the angels," Los Angeles, with its tropical fruits, orange orchards, and eternal summer. From Los Angeles we shall "take in" Santa Monica — a charming watering ])lace — and around to Wilmington Harbor, where we can interview the "Woman of the Period." We will visit Santa Ana, San Barnerdino, Ana- hine. Riverside, and not forget the "Gospel Swamp." At San Gabriel we will find the oldest Mission building on the coast in ruins; where orange trees are over 100 years old and loaded down Avith the golden fruit. We will have a run through the great vine- yards and fruit orchards of this tropi- cal region, inspectthe mammoth cac- tus pads and the huge palm trees. "Progress" from this point turns more to the Eastioard. We will follow its track and pass over the San Barnerdi- no mountains, and descend into the " Great Colorado Desert," — rolling down, down to the sea level, where one would suppose " Progress " would na- turally stop, unless she had a boat or a diving suit ; but no, our train starts again downward; ye gods! down, down we go, under the sea level two hundred and slrty - six feet, where sul- phur springs, mud geysers, salt and many other kinds of springs— both hot and co/rf— are very numerous, forcibly reminding one of the " old version;" but, as our modern teachers have done away with that old "bugaboo," we sup- pose they would not hesitate to visit with us this remarkable and very in- teresting region, and — gather a speci- man. Let us see, we are living in a fast age ; the sun makes very good time, but "Old Sol" is aged, has run in the same old groove for too many years to re- tain muchof the spirit of Progress. It is within the memory of many, how Morse, with his lightning, beat the old luminary, and we are now "talking all around him." Steam on the rail is next in speed ; ' one mile a minute " is not uncommon. The trip from New York to San Francisco, a distance of 3,296 miles, was commenced June 1, 1877, by Jarret & Palmer, on a special train, and the run made in 83 hours, r>3 min- utes, and 45 seconds, an average ol AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. w IS 1B2 bird's eye view of the plains, from LOUP FORK RIVER. 1869. 39 miles an hour including stops. Sol must look sharp, or steam will also beat him in the race. West to the Missour River — We shall not attempt a minute description of the various railroad and steamboat routes, east of the Missouri River. Each possesses its own peculiar attractions, a few of which will be briefly noted hereafter. Passengers from the Eastern Atlantic sea-board, contemplating a trip to the Pa- cific coast, or the trans-Missouri country bordering the great Pacific railroad, can have their choice of five through "Trunk Liaes," four American and one Canadian, which find their way by different routes, to a connection wiih the Union Pacific rail- road, on the east bank of the Missouri River, midway between Council Bluffs and Omaha. These five lin«s are the N.ew York Cen- tral and Hudson River railroad, the Erie railway line, the Pennsylvania Central, the Baltimore & Ohio railroad, and the Grand Trunk, of Canada. The railroad connections by these lines are almost innumerable, extending to al- most every city, town, and village in nearly every State and Territory in the United States and Dominion of Canada; the regular through trains of either line make close and sure connections with the Pacific road, while the fares are the same. Sleeping cars are run on all through trains — most luxuriant palaces. The charges are extra, or about $3 per day — 24 hours. 14 CKOFUTT S NEW OVEKLAND TOURIST Only first-class passengers cau procure Taerths in the sleeping cars. HINTS BEFORE WE START. 1. Provide yourself T\-ith Crofutt's New- Overland Tourist, and then Le particular to choose such routes as will enable you to visit the cities, towns, and objects of interest that you desire to see, without an- noyance or needless expense. , 2. Greenbacks are good everywhere, so there is no longer any necessity of chang- ing them for gold. 3. Never purchase your tickets from a stranger in the street, but over the counter of SDme responsible company. When purchasing tickets, look well to the date, and notice that each ticket is stamped at the time you receive it. Then make a memorandum on the blank in the Annex No. 2, of your Guide Bassengers, and for the transaction of all kinds of bus- iness connected with the transfer. The tracks of the eastern roads ter- minate at the eastern front. Between these tracks are long wide covered platforms along which passengers, mails, baggage, etc., reach the depot, and after passing through the build- ing, find the Union Pacific trains wait- ing on the west side. The Union Depot is a model of con- venience, built of brick with stone trimmings,— two stories. On the first floor are two large waiting rooms for ladies and gentlemen, ticket, telegraph and express offices, baggage and news rooms, restaurant, lunch counter, barber, etc. The second story of the building is divided into rooms for hotel accommodations, the parlors are elegant, the rooms, — 40 in num- ber — are very large, furnished in the best manner, with hot and cold water, gas, annunciators, etc. A "Dummy" train leaves the depot for Omaha every hour through the day, and horse cars from the south side of the depot for Council Bluffs, regularly. The £^}inijs]'aiit ESojsse— so-call- ed, is situated a short distance west of the Depot on the north side of the track. It was built by the Union Pa- cific Co., and is run by their direction for the accommodation and i^rotec- tion of their emigrant passengers. The building is of wood, has 70 rooms comfortably furnished, accommoda- ting 200 persons, and charges only suf- ficient to cover cost; plain, substan- tial meals, 25 cents each. The handling of the baggage at this depot is no small item. The baggage room is very large, as well as the num- ber of "smashers," but, as the latter are always under the eye of Mr. Tray- nor. General Baggage Agent of the road, the baggage is not only handled quickly but with ti fatherly care. Passengers will here re- check their baggage, and secure tickets in one of CUOFUTT S >"KW OVERLAND TOUIJIST 21 the Pai.ace Si-iii:rM.vo Cars that ac- companies all tliruiif^li trains, and ihere- by insure an opportunity for a refresh- infr sleej), as well as a jialace by night and day. 'J'his, however, eosts an extra fee. The charges are over the Union Pacific from Omaha, $8.00 ; from Ogden, over the Central racilic, to the racilic Coast cities, $t).oo. . Hut as all cannot afford to ride in palace cars, secure — pre-empt, if you please — the best seat you can, and prepare to be Jiappy. i;^">Sleepinir car aiul stop-over privil- eges are not allowed ou second and third- class tickets. [SeeNotiM). 149.] Ba.q;- gage can be checked only to the desti- nation of second and third-class tick- ets— 100 lbs. allowed free on each full, and 50 lbs. on each half-lifket of all classes. Extra bag,i;age is §10 to $15 per 100 lbs. accoiding to class. Passen- gers holding lust-class tickets to San Francisco, with pie-i)aid orders for steamer i)assage to trans-Pacific ports, will be allowed -JoO lbs. baggage, free, on jjresentatiou of such orders to the baggage agent at tlie Transfer, or Omaha; on second-class tickets, l.'iOlbs., fice. Oi"ders for steamsliip passage can be purchased at tiie Transfer, or Omaha depot ticket ollices. For rates of Fare see Annex No. 4. Luxcii Baskets— Willi ouly two or three exceptioi'is, all the eating-houses on this line are gi^od The [/ood ones have our ap- proval, but tlie others— Oh! well-shoukl you provide yourself with a small basket of provisious, and use ii accordingl^y, it would tend to preserve your temper. The accommodatunis at all the iiriucipal sta- tious for those who wish to "stop over " a day or two, are ample; charges, trom.|3,00 to $4.00 per day. Foil A Brief Sketch of Our Western Country — The Far \\est — Con- densed History — Organization of THE Pacific Railroap— Land Grant —Cost of Construction— Materiai^ Used — Importance op the Road — Facts in Brief— Grumblers - See An- nex No. 5. On:: Word More— As you rrj about to launch out upon th ; broad, sw: oping lains, the barren deser:, and the ^rand oia'inouu^ tains— for all these varied .eatures of ;..e earth's surface will be encountered before we reach the Pacific Coat — lay aside aZZ city prej udices and ways f i- the time ; leave them Ae/v, aud for once be wtural while among nature's loveliest and grandest crea- tions. Having done this, yow will be pre- pared to enjoy the trip — to appreciate the scenes which will rise successively before you. But, above all forget everytliing but the journej'; aud in this consists the g>eat secret of having a good time generally. Are you ready? — The bell rings, 'All aboard " is sounded, and our train leaves the "Transfer Grounds," and directs its course due west towards the Missouri River Bridge— The construe- tion of this bridt:e was first authorized by Congress on the 25th of July, 18 6, but very IiUle was done until March, 1868, when work commenced, and was continued from that time until July 26, 1809, when it was suspended. Xothing more was done until April, 1870, when a second contract was made with the .Xni'iican Bridge Company o: Chicago, and work again comm' need. On the 34th of February, 1871, Congr ss l)assed a special act authorizinu the Union Pacific Railroad Company to '-oustruct this bridge across the ^lissouri River, and to issue bonds lo the amount of $2,500,000. The countj^ of Douglas, Nebraska, voted, under certain conditions, aid in county bonds to the amount of |250,00G. Also, Pcttawattomie county, Iowa, voted, under certain conditions, aid to the amount of |;i05,000. This bridge is a notable structure (see illustration), one-half utile in length, with the approaches over one mile. It is located below the old depot, and op- posite that part of the city of Omaha liuown as "Train-Town," and has a single track. The bridge is known as a "Post's Pat- ent." The hollow iron columns are 23 in number, two forming a pier. The-e col- umns ure made of cast iron one-aud-three- fourths inches in thickness, 8)^ feet in di- ameter, 10 feet long, and weigh 8 tons each. They are bolted together air-tigh^, and sunk lo the bed-rock of the river, in one case, 83 feet below low-water. Alter these columns are seated on the rock fouudatiim, they are filled up twenty feet with stone concrete, and from the conc-ete to the bridge "seat," they are filled with regular masonry. From high- water mark to the bridge "seat," these columns measure 50 feet. The eleven spans are 25 J feet in length, making 22 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. MISSOURI RIVER BRIDGE — OMAHA IN THE DISTANCE, the iron part, between abutments, 2,750 feet. These columns were cast in Chicago, and delivered in the shape ot enormous rings, 10 feet in length. When they were being placed in position the workmen would take two or more rings, join them together, place the co'umn where it was to be sunk, cover the top with an air-lock, then force the water from the column 1)}' pneumatic pressure, ranging from 10 to 3."3 pounds per square incli. The workmen descend the columns by means of rope- ladders, and fill sund-liuckets, which are hoisted through the airlock by a ])ony-en- gine. The sand is then excavated about two feet below the bottom of the column, the men come out through the air- ock, a leverage, from 100 to 300 tons, is applied, the pneumatic p'essure is removed, iiml the column sinks, from three inches to two and on. -ha f f et — in one ins'ance, the co'- umn steadily sank down 17 feet. When ever the column sinks, the sand fills in from 10 to 30 feet— in one instance, 40 feet. This has to be excavated before another sinking of a few inches can take place, making altogether a slow and tedious I rocess. Soon after crossing the bridge, our train stops in the Omaha depot — a large build- ing with one enormous span overhead, built in the most substantial manner, of iron and gliss with six tracks running through it from end to end. On the south side are ample waiting and dining-rooms, express, telegraph, baggage, ticket, and other offices. Passengers who wish to stop over, will find onnibuses at the depot to take them and their baggage to the hotels, or any point in the city ; fare, 50 cen's ; yr, they will find street cars on the north side of the depoi, that leave every liv: : inutcs, passing the princpal hotels, and running the whole length of the city ; fare, ■> cents. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 23 GENERAL OFFICES, UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY CO Omaha — This is one of the mosi progressive cities in the West. It is the county seat of Douglas county, situated on the western bank of the Mo. River, on a slope about 50 feet above high-water mark, with an altitude of 906 feet above sea level. The first "claim cabin" was built here in 1854, and the place named Omaha, after the Omaha Indians. It is related that the first postmaster of Omaha usod his hat for a postofflce.and many times, when the postmaster was uii LJie prairie, some anxious individual, would chase him fur miles until he over- took the traveling postoffice and re- ceived his letter. "Large oaks from little acorns grow," says the old rhyme, 'tis illustrated in this case. The battered- hat postoffice has given place to a first- class postoffice, commensurate with the future growth of the city, the last cen- sus giving a populatiou of 30,642. In 1875, the Government completed a large court-house and postoffice build- ing, using a very fine quality of Cin- cinnati free-stone. It is 122 feet in length by 66 feet in width— four stories high — cost $350,000, and is one of tlie most attractive buildings in the city. The State capitol was first located here, but was re- moved to Lincoln in 186 8. Omaha thougli the first set- 1 1 e m en t made in N ebraska,is a young city. The town im- proved steadily un- til 1859, when it commenced to gain very rapidly. Tlie inaugurating of the Union Pacific rail- road gave it another onward impetus, and since then the growtii of the city has been very rapid. There are many evi- dences of continued l)rosperity and fu- ture greatness, one of which, is the fact that there are no dwelling houses in the city "To Let;" yet the records show there were over S2,000,000 expended during 1881 in new buildings and city improvements. Omaha is the headquarters for half dozen railroads, has three daily pa- pers, the Herald, Bee and Republican, besides several periodicals; a grand opera house and several large first- class hotels building (with 36 small ones in operation). The amount of jobbing business, banking, packing, manufacturing, grain and produce handling, etc., done in Omaha is im- mense and rapidly increasing. There are twenty-four churches in the city and numerous i)ublic and private schools. The Omaha people are proud of their jnthlic, .schools. The city has near $.500,000 invested in free school property. The High School is the finest build- ing of its kind in the Western country, and stands on Capitol Hill, on the site of the old State House, the highest point in the city, ami is the first object which attracts the attention of travel- ers approaching from the East, North, or South. Its elevation and command, ing position stand forth as a fitting 24 CKOFUTT S KEW OVERLAND TOURIST. monument to attest a people's intelli- gence and worth. [8ee Annex No. G.] To the north of the High School buildingisthc Crt'ighton College, just completed at a cost of $55,000, with a further endowment of $100,000 the gift of Mrs. Edward Creighton. The Iniild- ingis54 by 126 feet — three stories and abasement — capable of accommodat- ing 480 pupils. It is ii free school and CGiiducted 1 7 the Jcsr.it Fathei- BDE HIVE, OR FAN GF.YSER, YFLI.OWSTONE PARK. Omaha has a beautiful driving park, known as Hanscom Park, the gift of Mr. A. J. Hanscom and Mr. Jas.&. Mc- Gath. It is situated about one mile southwest from the center of the city, contains 80 acres, is in as romantic and picturesque a locality as one could wish, with a perfect forest of shade trees and beautiful walks, fountains, etc., and, in fact, is "a thing of beauty," and to the citizens of Omaha, we be- ■'^^ lieve, will be a joy "for- >^ ; Omaha is headquar- , ters of lheDe]uirtment .: of the Platte. Fort Om- 5 aha Avas established in 1 1 8(j8 ; the barracks are 8 iin number capable of 'accommodating 1,000 I men. They are situated I ;j miles north and in full I A iew of the city. Lati- 1 tudo, 40 deg. 20 min.; j longitude, 96 deg. from I Greenwich. E i g h ty j acres of land are held "-) as reserved, though no ; I reservation has yet -! been declared at this : post. There isan cxcel- ; 1( I'.t carriage-road to I the barracks and a fine ■; d rive around t h e m , ■ A^hich affords pleasiire ! ] iiirties an excellent op- ( portunity to witness /jtlie dress-parades of ' the "boys in blue." It is a favorite resort, the p.-.iade, the fine drive and i]n]>ro vemen ts around the place call- ing out many of the fa- shionable ]ileasure- scekers. The grounds ai e planted with shade trees, and in afew years will become one r>f the 1 many i)leasant i)laces ' around Omaha, The post is the main distributing point for all troops and stores destined for the "West. These b a r r a c k s were erected for the purpose of qnarter- ing the troops during CROFUTT S KE"\V OVEKI^ANJ) 1 OURIST 25 tlic winter season when their services were not required on the plains, and as a gener- al rendezvous for all troops destined for that quarter. Besides the Union Pacific, there are two oilier rail roads that branch oU'fr. ni Omaha. The Omaha A: Northern Nebraska, and the Burlini^lon and Missouri in Neliraska. These roads were chaitered under the gen- eral railway act which gave two thousand acres of laud lor every mile of road coni- ])leted before a specified time. The route of the Northern is five miles up tlie Mis- souri River Valley, then northwest to the valley of the Papillion, thence to the Elklioru River, and up thcElkhoni Valley to tlie mouth of the Niobrara. It is now completed, and cars are running to Teka- mah, Burt counter— about ."^O miles from Omaha. At Blair connections are made wiih tlie Sioux Ciiy & Pacific railroad. iue roLueof tueii. di.Jsi. ii. It. lu .Neu. Branch, is down the Missouri River Valley, where it crosses the Platte and runs to Lincoln. This road is under the manage- ment of the Burlington & Missouri River Railroad Co., and makes close connections at Orepolis with the main line of the B. & M. for the Eus^ and West. . At Omaha, are located the generhl offi- ces of the Union Pacific Ra'lroad Com- pany, in a fine, large buil ling jut com- pleted and fitted up iu the mo.~t complete and convenient manner. Tliis company employs about 9,00() men; this inciiia'rties, under whose management they are con- ducted. We will now return to Valley, and proceed westward. From Valley the Bluffs on the south side of the Platte Elver can be seen in the distance, but a few miles awav,ia a southwesterly direction. Soon after leaving the station vv-e catch the first glimpse of the Platte Piiver, on our left. Six miles further over the broad plain brings us to iTlercer — an unimportant station, from which it is five miles to Fremont— the county seat of Dodge county, situated about three miles north of the Pliitte River, and contains a population of about3,50(». The regu- lar ]iassenger trains on the " Over- land" route i^top here 20 minutes for dinner, lioth from the east and west. The public buildings include a jail and court-house, seven chvirches, and some fine school houses. Also a fine opera house. Ten vears ago we said: "It was a thriving i)lace in the midstof a beautiful country." Now it is a cih/ of no mean pretentions. Within the past ten years there has been built nearly 1,000 dwelling houses, with stores of all kinre witli the I'nion Pacific and runs through to JNIissouri Valley Junction, Iowa, where it connects with the Chicago & Northwestern Railway. ■28 PA(IFIC COAST CUIOK. 1111(1' J nVJiiiHiui II rail 1 f I ■^llili PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 29 It is claimed this route is 3) miles shorter to Chicago than via Omaha, but we do uot know of auy thi-ougli travel ever going by this line, and judge the local travel to be its sole support. The Fremont & Elkhorn Valley rail- road to tlie northward is completed to Norfolk, 80 miles, and trains are run- ning regularly. This roatl runs through a ve y rich and well cultivated country, where wheat yields as high as 30 busliels to the acre. Fremont is connected with the south side of the Platte by a wag.>u bridge ihal cost over $50,000. The Platte P.iver— We are now going up Ihe Platle, and .'(jr many miles we shall pass closely along the north bank ; at other times, the course of the river can only hs traced by the timber growing on its banks. Broad plains are the pi'incipal features, skirted in places with low abrupt hills, which here, in this level country, rise to the dignit/ of "blutfs." It would never do to omit a description of this famous stream, up the banks of which so many — emiii;rants toiled in the " Whoa, haw " times, from 1850 to the time when the railroad superseded the "prai rie schooner." How manj blows from the ox-whip ha\e fallen on the sides of Ihe p i ticnt oxen as they toiled along hauling the ponderous wag ons of the freighters, or the lighter vehicles of the emi grant! How often the shatp ring of the "popper" aroused the timid liare or graceful antelope, and frightened them away from their meal of waving grass! How msny tremendous, jaw - breaking oaths fell from the lips ot the "bull-whackers" during that period, we will not even guess at; but pious divines tell U3 that there is a Statisti clan wuo has kept a record of all such expletives; to that authority we refer our readers who are fond of lig ures. Once in a while, too, the traveler will catch a glimpae of a lone grave, marked by a rude head-board, on these plains ; and with the time and skill to decipher the old and time-stained hieroglyphics with which it is decorated, will learn that it marks the last resting-place of some emigrant or freighter, who, overcome by sickness, laid down here and gave up the fainting spirit to the care of Him who gave it; or, per- chance, wid learn that the tenant ol^ this reiitless house fell whi e defending his wife and clii dren from the savage Inilians, who atacked the train in the gray dawn or darker night. Th'-re is a sad, brief his- tory connected with each told to the passer- by, mayhap in rude lines, possibly b) the broken arrow or bow, rudely drawn on the mouldering head-board. However rude or rough the early emigrants may have been, il can never be charged to tliem th it they ever neglected a comrade. The sick were teuderK uurs'jd, the dead decently buried, anil their graves marked by men who had shared With them the perils of the trip. Those were drys, and these plains the place that tried men's mefle; anil lu-re the Western frontiersman shone superior to all HIGH SCHOOL, OMAHA. 30 OKOFUTT S XEW OV'KKLAXD TOURIST Others who venluied to cross the "vast desert," wh.ch stretched its unknowu breailth between him and the hind (jf his desires. Braoe, cool and wary as the sav- age, with his unerring rifle on his (rrni, he was more than a snatch for any red devil he might encounter. Patient under adversity, fertile in. res'>urces, he was an i7ivalu'ible aid at all times; a true friend, and bitter foe. This type of people is fast passing awa\'. Tlie change wrouglit within the last few years has robbed the plains of its most atU'active feature, to those who are far away from the scene— the emigrant train. Once, the south bank of the Pialte was one brodd thoioughfar •, whereon the long trains of the emigrants, with their white-covered wagons, could be seen stretching away for many miles in an almost unbroken chain. Now, on the north side of the same river, in almost full view of the "old emigrant load," the cars are bear ng the freight and passengeis rap.dly west- ward, wuile I he oxen that used to toil so wearily along this route, have been traus- foriued into 'western veal" to tickle the palates of those passengers, or else, like Tiny Tim, they have been compelled to "move on" to some new helds of labor. To give some idea of the great amount of freighting don on these plains we pre- sent a few tigures, which were taken from ! the books of freighting Urms in AichisDU, Kansas. In 18(55, this p ace was the 2)rin- cipal point on the Missouri River, Irom which freight was for u aided to the Great West, luelu dug Colorado, Utah, Montana, &c. There were loaded at this place, 4,480 wagons, drawn by 7,310 mules, and 29,720 oxen. To control and drive these ti'ains, an army of 5,0 10 men was em- ployed. The freight taken by ihese trains amounted to 27,000 tons. Add to these authenticated accounts, the estimaied busi- ness of the other shipping points, and tlie aimmnt is somewhat astounding. Compe- tent authority estimatad the amount of freights shipped during that season from Kansas City, Leavenworth, !St. Joe, Omaha and Plattsmouth, as being fully equal, if not more than was shipped from Atchison, with a correspond ng number of men, wagons, mules and oxen. Assuming these eslimate-i to be coirect, we have this result : During 18U5, there were employed in this business, 8,'JGO wagons, 14,(520 mules, 59,- 440 cattle, and 11,220 men, who moved to its destination, 54,000 tons of freight. To accomplish this, the enormous sum of $7,- 289,800 was invested in teams and wagons, alone. But to return to the river, and leave facts and figures for something more interesting. "But," says the reader, "Ain't the Platte lli\er a factV" Not much, for at times, after you pass above Julesburg, there is more fancy than fact in the streams. In 1808, teamsters were obliged to excavate pits in the sand of the river-bed before they could find waier encnigh to water their st(jck. Again, although the main stream looks like a mighty river, broad and ma- jestic, it is as deceiving as the "make up" of a fashionable woman of to-day. Many places it looks broad and deep; try it, and you will find that your feet touch the treacherous sand ere your instep is under water; another place, the water appears to be ripi)ling along over a smooth b(jttoin, close to the surface; try that, and in you go, over your head in water, thick with yellowish sand. You don't like the Platte when you examine it in this manner. The channel is continually shifting, caused by the vast qu lutities of sand wnich are con- tinually lloaling down its muddy tide. The sand )s very treacherous, too, and woe to the unlucky wight who attempts to cross this stream betore he has become iicquaint- ed with the tbrds. Indeed, he ought to be introduced to the river and ail its branches before he undertakes the perilous task. In crossing the river in early times, should the wagons come to a stop, down they sank in the yielding quicksand, until they were so firmly imbedded that it required more than double the original force to pull them out; and often they must be unloaded, to prevent the united teams from puding them to pieces, while trying to lilt the loatl and wagon from the sandy bed. The stream is generally very shallow during the fall and winter; in many places no more than six or eight inches in dei)th, over the whole width of the stream. Nu- merous small islands, and some quite large, are seen while passing along, which will be noticed in their proper place. The Platte River has not done much for navigation, neither will it, yet it drains the waters of a vast scope of country, thereby rendering the immense valleys fertile; many thousand acres of which, during the past few years, have been taken up and successfully cultivated. The average width of the river, from where it empties into the Missouri to the AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 31 juuctiou of the North and South Forks, is not far from three-tourtlis of a mile; its average depth is six inches. lu the months of September and October the river is at its lowest stage. The hinds lying along this river are a portion of the laud granted to the Union Pacitic railroad, and the company are otieringliberal terms and great inducements to settlers. Much of the land is as line agricultural and grazing land as can be iOund in any section of the Northwest. Should it be deemed necessary to irrigate these plains, as some are inclined to think is ihe case, there is plenty of fall in either fork, or in tbemain river, for the purpose, and during the montlis when irrigation is required, there is plenly of water for that pur|)ose, coming from the melting snow on the mountains. Ditches could be led from either stream and over the pla us at little expense. Many, however, claim that in ordinary seasons, irrigation is unnecessary'. From Omaha to the Platte River, the course of the road is southerlj', until it nears the river, when it turns to the we^t, formmg, as it were, an immen^^e elbow. Thence along the valley, lollowing the river, it runs to Kearny, with a slight southerly depression of its westerly course ; but from thence to the North Phxtte it»re- covers the lost ground, and at this point is neai'ly due w'es-t from Freniont, the tirst point where the road reaches the river That is as far as we will trace the course of the road at present. The tirst view of the Platte Valley is im- pressive, and should the traveler chance to behold it for the tirst time in the spring or early summer, it is tlien very beaulitul ; should he behold it for the tirst time, when the heat of the summer's sun has parched the plains, it may not seem inviting; its beauty nuiy be gone, but its majestic grand- eur still remains. The eye almost tu"es in searching for the boundary of this vast ex- panse, and longs to behold some rude moun- tain peak in the distance, as pioof that the horizon is not the girdle that en- circles this valley. When one gazes on mountain peaks and dismal gorges, on foaming cataracts and mountain torrents, the mind is tilled with awe anil wonder, perhaps fear of Him who hath I reated these grand and sublime won- ders. On the other hand, these lovely plains and smiling valleys — clothed in verdure and decked with flowers —All the mind with love and veneration for their Creator, leaving on the heart the impres- sion of a joy and beauty which shall \ast tbrever. Keturning to Fremont — and the railroad — we proceed seven miles to Ames — formerly called Ketchum — only a side track. Near this station, and at other places along the road, the traveler will notic-; iie-kis Ijnccd with a line willow hedge, which appears to thrive wonderful- ly. Eight miles further we reach IX^ortll Keiicl — which is situated near the river bank, and surrouudeJ by a tine agricultural country, where luxuriant crops of corn give evidence of the fertility of the soil. The place has materially im- proved within the last few years and now has some tine stores, two ho els, a grain elevator, and about 75 dwellings and places of business, and a population of about 350. Young cottonwood groves have been set out in many places — good tences built, Hud altogether the town has a pro- gressive appearance. Leaving the station, for a few miles the railroad tra(;k is laid nearer the river's b ink than a' any point between Fremont and North Platte. Seven miles from here we arrive at BSog'ers— a new station, and ajjpar- ently one of promise — 7 -t-lU miles further is Sclmyler — the county seat of Colfax county, eontuinin,^- l.coo inhabitants, and rapidly improving. It has tiva churches, two very good hotels, with court- house, jail, school-liousis, many stores, a grain elevator, and several small manu- factories. The bridge over the Platte liiver, two miles ^ouih, centres at this town a large amount of business from the south side of the river. From Schuyler it is 7 8-10 miles to Bentaii— formerly called Cooper; later, Piichlaiid— a small side-track station, from which it is eight miles to Colnnibns — the county seat ot Platte county, a substantial growing city, which contains about 2,500 inhabitants, has two banks, six churches, s-everal schools, good hotels, and two weekly newspapers, — the Platte Journal and the Era. 'Ihe Ham- mond i the principal hotel. Columbus— Innu its location in the midst of the tiueot agricultural lauds in the Platte Valley, w.th the rich valley of the Loup on the north — has advantages that will, at no distant day, make it a city of many thousand inhabitants. 32 crofutt's new overland tourist George Francis Train called Columbus the geogra[ihical center of the United States, and advocated the removal of tt,e National Capitol to this place. We have very litt'e doubt, slionld George ever be elected President, he will carry out tlie idea, when we shall behold the Capital of the Union located on these broad plains— but we shall not buy corner lois on the strength of the removal. In July aud August, 1867, Columbus was a busy place, and the end of the track. Over ■10,000,000 lbs. of Government corn and other freight was re-shipped from here to Fort Laramie, and the military camps in the Powder River country. The Burlington and Missouri River Railroad reaches this place from the sovithward, and the Omaha, Niobrara & Black Hills Railroad leads off to the northward. See Annex No. GC. Soon after leaving Columbus we cross Loup Fork on a fine bridge, constructed in the most substantial manner. This sU'eam rises 75 miles northeast of Nurth Platte City, aud runs through a fine farming country until it unites with the Platte. Plenty of fish of various kinds are found in the stream, and its almost innumerable tributaries. These little streams water a section of country unsurpassed in fertility and agricultural resources. Game in abundance is found in the valley of the Loupe, consisting of deer, antt lope", turkeys and prairie chickens, while the streams abound in ducks and geese. From Columbus it is 7 6-10 miles to l>niicaii— formerly called Jackson —surrounded by well cultivated fields. Passmg along, and just before reaching the next station, we cross a small stream called Silver Creek. From Duncan it is lu 1-10 miles to the station of , SSilver Creek — This section of coun- try has improved very rapidly during the Irist few years, and we notice many sub- stantial evidences of thrift in every direc- tion — many new buildings. To the uorlheast of this station is the old Pawnee Indian Reservation, but not visible from the cars It covered a tract of country Iox^jO miles in area, most of which is the best of land. About 2,000 acres are under cultivation. The tribe, num- bering about 2,000, were removed to the In- dian Territory in 1878 by the Government aud the lauds sold at auction. Again we speed westward, six miles to Havens— from which it is 5 3-10 miles to i lai k's— a small station named in honor of the Gen. Managerof the road. The surrounding countiy is remark- ably rich in thechief wealth of a nation — agriculture, and has made rapid pro- gress. Of J ite years, several new stores, achurch, school house and many dwel- lings have been erected, indicating permanent prosperity. From Clark's it is 5 6-10 miles to TIiHiniiie!— and 5 6-10 miles more to Cesttra H'i 3 y— formerly Lone Tree, the county seat of Merrick county. It contains a population of about 900, ai\d is surrounded by thrifty farmers. The '"old emigrant road" from Omaha to Colorado crosses the river o]^posite this point, at the old "Shiun's Ferry." The more recent settlers of Lone Tree, call the place "Central City," in anticipa- tion of the early completion of the Ne- braska Ci ntral rai;road to this place. Cottonwood trees have been planted by numy of the settlers about their Iiomes, which present a cheeiful and homelike ap- pearance. Passengers should notice the railroad track — for 40 miles it is constructed as strv^i'ght as it is possib'e to build a road. When the sun is low in the horizon, at certain seasons, theview' is very beau- tiful. Rolling along \\ 4-10 miles, and we arrive at l*a!i^^ li /I iNlil'Mr/.m'ilM'l.^ ^"^^^!' ^asirfipnx'iu^'ii nrm mil m\i iJi\A ij\ir"7n\[Mvvw SALB CREKK BRIDGE, NEAR SHERMAN, ON THE BLACK HILLS OF WYOMING. 38 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST unteers who had been stationed on ihe frontier during the rebellion, the names of many of the forts were changed, and tliey were re-named in memory of those gal- lant officers who gave their lives in de- fense of their country. Fort McPherson was named after Major-General James B. McPherson, who was killed in the battle before Atlanta, Georgia, July, 32d, 1864. Supplies are received via McPhersou Sta- tion. Located in latitude 41 deg., longi- tude 100 deg. 30 min. The next station is 7 7-10 miles further, named G^annett — a side-track — nearly five miles from where the trains cross the long trestle bridge over the Nor iH Platte River — This river rises in the mountains ot Colorado, in the Norih Park. Its course is to the northeast from its source for several hundred miles, when it bends around to the southeast. We shall cross it again at Fort Steele, 403 miles fur- ther west. The general characteristics of the stream are similar to tho-e of the South Platte. For 1(X) miles np this river the " bottom lands " are from 2 to 15 miles wide, very rich, and susceptible of cultivation, though perhaps requiring irrigation. Game in abundance is found in this valley, and bands of wild horses at one time were numerous. Fort Laramie is about 150 miles from the junction — near where the Laramie River unites with this s'ream. On the west bank of the river, 80 miles north, is Ash Hollow, rendereil famous by GeiieiHl Harney, who gained a decisive victory over the Sioux Indians here, many years ago. About one mile bevond the bridge and 5«-lu miles from Gannett is situated I^ortla Platte City— the county seat of Lincoln county. Elevation, 2,78'.) feet; distaiKie from Omaha, 291 miles. Here is the end of the Eastern and the commeneem<^nt of the Moun- tain Division. For altitude of each station see " Time Table " No. 2 at the end of the Book. This is a regular eating station for the trains on the •' Denver Short Line." Breakfast go- ing west : supper coming east. The road was finished to this place, No- vember. 1860. Here the company have a round-house of 20 stalls, a blacksmith and repan- shop, all of stone. In these si.ojis arc employed — regularly — 76 men, besides those engaged in the offices and yard. The Railroad House is the principal hotel. North Platte has improved very rapidly during the last three years, and contains about 2,000 population. Churches, hotels, county buildings, and scores of dwellings have been built, or are in course of erection. A new bridge has been completed across the South Platte River. Two weekly papers arei)ul)lished liere, and several others projected. Settlers' houses, and tens of thousands of cattle, sheep and hoises are to be seen in every direction. The advantages of this place, as a stock range and shipping punt, exceed all others on the line of road. Messrs. Keith, Barton, and Dillon, citi- zens of North Platte City, have a herd of 15,000 head of cattle— on the North Platte above the City — and there are many oilier parties living at or near this city, who own herds of from 500 to 5,000 head. In this country a man that only owns 500 head, is counted a "poor shoat " — one to lie pitied. Norih Platte, in its palmiest days, boasted a population of over 3,000, which was reduced in a few months after the road extended, to as many hundreds. Until the road was finished to Julesburg, which was accomplished in June, 1867, all freight for the V\"est was shipped Irom thispoiut; then the town was in the height of its pros- perity; then the gamblers, the roughs and scallawags, who afterward rendered the road accursed by their iireseuce, lived in clover — -for there were hard-working, fool- ish men enough in the town to afibrd llieiu an easy living. When the town be- gan to decline, these leaches followed up the road, cursing with their upas blight every camp and town, until an enraged and long-suttermg community arose in their own defense, binding themselves together, a la vigilantes, anil, for want of a legal tribunal, took the law into their own hands, and hung them to the first projec- tion high and strong enough to sustain their worthless carcasses. But many "moved on," and we shall hear of them again many times before we are through. From North Platte our route is due west. It is 8 4-10 miles to Xiehol- — an unimj^ortant side- track. NorthPIa.ttccityisiii]dain sight —as is also the North and South Platte Ri\-ers— nnd the Ynlleys of the same. From Nichols it is 8 5-10 miles to AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 39 O'Falloii's Station— situated in the sand hills, where the bluffs on the right come close to the river. Ou the south side of the river are the famous OTallon's Bluffs, a series of sandhills interspersed with ravines and gulches which come close to the river's bank, forming abrupt bluffs, which turned the emigrants back from the river, forcing them to cross these sand hills, a distance of eight miles, thro' loose yielding sand, devoid of vegetation. Here as well as at all points where the bluffs come near the river, the emi- grants suffered severely, at times, from the attacks of the Indians. Op- posite, and extending above this point is a large island in the river, once a noted camping ground of the Indians. O'Fallon's Bluffs are the first of a se- ries of sand hills, which extend north and south for several hundred miles. At this point the valley is much nar- rower than that thro' which we have just passed. Here we first enter the "alkali belt," which extends from this point to Julesburg— about 70 miles. The soil and water are strongly im- pregnated with alkaline substances. The country on both sides of the river is occupied exclusively for graz- ing purposes. The first volume of this book instructed i^assengers to keep their "eye peeled" for buffalo, as we are now getting into the buffalo range. During the spring of 1873-7-4 immense numbers roamed over this country, along the road for 100 miles westward, but few, if any, have been seen since that time. Passingalong up the nar- row bottom, with the bluffs along our right, 7 3-10 miles brings us to a side- track, called -Dexter— Trains seldom stop here, and 7 2-10 miles further we reach Alkali— on an alkali bottom. This station is directly opposite the old stage station of that name on the south side of the river. After leaving the sta- tion the road passes thro' the sand- bluffs, which here run close to the riv- ei-'s bank. A series of cuts and fills, extending for many miles, brings us to the bottom land again. From Alkali, it is 9 6-10 miles to _ Roscoe — another side-track sta- tion. Passing along over a narrow bottom, with sand bluff cuttings, at in- tervals, 9 G-10 milf's w-e come to Os;alaUa—thj county seat of Keith county. The settlers hero are all more or less engaged in stock-raising. It is the river crossing for large droves of cattle en route for the Indian reser-| vation, Fort Laramie and the Black Hills country, to the northward. Near this station, several years ago, at a point where the road makes a short curve and crosses the mouth of a ra- vine, the Indians attempted to wreck a passenger train, by suddenly mass- ing their ponies on the track ahead of the locomotive. The result was, some score or more of ponies were killed, without damaging the train, while the men used their "pistols" and guns pretty freely on the Indians, who were apparently greatly surprised, and who now called the locomotive "Smoke wagon— big chief! Ugh! ! no good !" Passing on 1 G-10 miles we pass Bosler — a side-track from v/hich it is 8 miles to Brnle— near is the old California Crossing, where the emigrants cross- ed the river when striking for the North Platte Elver andFortLaramie, to take the South Pass route over- land. On the south side of the river, opposite in plain view, is the old ranche and trading post of the noted Indian trader and Peace Commission- er— Beauve— now deserted. Passing along over cuts and fills, 9 7-10 miles, we reach Big Springs — The station derives its name from a large spring, the first found on the road, which makes out of the bluffs, opposite the station, on the right hand side of the road, and in plain view from the cars. The water is excellent, and will be found the best along this road. It was at this station where the "Blue Spring's robbery" took place, Sept. 18th 1877. A party of twelve masked men took possession of the station, bound and gagged the men, cut the telegraph wires, Avhen the western train arrived took pos- session of it with guns and revolvers, in the name of "hands up". The rob- bers secured $65,000 from the express car, i:pl,300 and four gold watches from passengers, then mounted their horses and allowed the train to proceed. No person was killed or injured, but all were very badly frightened. Imme- diately after the robbery, a reward of 40 crofutt's new overland guide $10,000 was offered for the arrest of the l^erpetrators, and several have been caught and have paid the penalty of the crime with their lives. About one- half of the money has been recovered. After leaving this station^we pass by a series of cuts and fills, and another range of bluffs, cut up by narrow ra- vines and gorges. At points, the road runs so near the river bank, that the water seems to be right under the ears. But we emerge again after 7 8-10 miles and come to Hartoii — a small signal station of very little importance, from which it is 2 7-10 miles to DeJBVer Jnnctioii— Here the new *' Omaha & Denver Short Line " branches off to the left. In 1873-1:, a railroad bed was graded up the north side of the Platte river, in the interest of the U. P. Ey. Co.. but for some reason the ties and iron Avere not laid until the summer of 1881. On November 6th of that year the first through passenger trains commenc- ed making regular trips. The stations and distances are as follow\s; (See time table in back of book. miles. Denver June, to Sedgwick 14. s Sedgewick to Crook 15.0 Crook to Iliff 15.5 Iliff to Sterling, (Dinner Station.) ll.S Stelring to Butfalo V2.7 Buffalo to Snyder 16.9 Snyder to Deuel 12.!) Deuel to Orchard ^Z*^ Orcliard to Hardin 17.0 Hardin to Lasalle 15.4 Fom Denver .Junction to LaSalle, to con- nect with Cheyenne Div. U. V. lly. 150.8 Prom LaSalle to Denver 40. 1 From Denver Junction to Denver 1 97. 2 " Omaha to North Platte 291. " North Platto to Denver Junction. .. . 80.4 Omaha to Denver, via "Short Line," 568. G Omaha to Denver, via Cheyenne 622. Difference in favor of „Short Line," 53. The Platte EivER,w"est of North Platte city, is called the South Fork of the Platte. We have ascended it al- most on its banks, over 350 miles, and shall now leave it, as the "Overland Eoute" turns to the right, and north- west, and follow up the narrow valley of Lodge Pole Creek, to Egbert, about 100 miles distant, The South Fork of the Platte, up which the '"Short Line" is built, rises in the South Park of the Eocky Mountains of Colorado, about 280 miles distant. The 'valley extends from the Junction up the river about 217 miles, to where the river emerges from the mountains. The average width of the valley is about three miles, the soil of which, in places, is very rich, producing good crops with irrigation, large quantities of hay, and most excellent grazing. It now supports, witli the adjoining uplands, vast herds of cattle, sheep and horses. We refer the reader, for full infor- mation in regard to Colorado, her min- eral, stock-raising, and varied re- sources, watering places, and scenic attractions, to Crofutfs Grip-Sack Guide of Colorado. Sold on all trains. From Denver Junct'n it is 6 miles to Wier — formerlv Julesburgh, sta- tion. Elevation 3, .391 feet. Until 1808, this was an important militaiy, freight, and passenger station, since when it declined to a simple way station. The Union Pacific Avas completed to this place the last of June, 1867, -and all Government freight for the season was shipped to this iioint,to be reship- ped on wagons to the north and west. At that time Julesburgh had a pop- ulation of 4,000; now the town is al- most deserted. During the "lively times," Julesburgh was the roughest of all towns along the Union Pacific line. The roughs congregated there, and a day seldom ];)assed but what they"had a man for breakfast." Gam- bling and dance houses constituted the greater portion of the town ; and it is said that morality and honesty clasped hands and departed. We have not learned whether they have return- ed; and really Ave have our doubts about their ever having been there. Before the railroad, the last of Utah and California emigration that came up the Platte crossed opposite the station, and followed up the valley of Lodge Pole Creek to Chevenne Pass. Tlie old, old, town of Julesburgh, Avas situated on the south side of the Platte river nearly opi)Osite this sta- tion and Avas named for Jules Burgh Avho Avas brutally assasinated as Avill be related in Annex No. 10. Near this old town Avas the site of Fort Sedgavick— this post Avas es- tablished Mav 10. 1864, by the Third U. S. Volunters. and named after Ma.i. Gen'l John Sedgwick., Col. 4th Cav- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 41 airy, U. S. A., who waskilled in buttle at Spottsvlvania C. H., Va., May Uth, 186-i. It is located in the northeast cor- ner of Colorado, on the south side of the Platte river, four miles distant, on the old emigrant and stage road, to Cllorado, in plain view from the cars. Latitude 31 deg., longitude 102 deg. 30 min.— now abandoned. During the winter of 'G5-'G6, most of the wood used at Julesburg and Fort Sedgwick, was hauled on wagons from Denver, at an expense of from $60 to $75 per cord, for transportation alone, and was sold, to Government, by contract, at $105 per cord. The wood cost in Denver about $20. Besides this the contractors were allowed by Government to putin what hard wood they could get at double price, or $210 a cord, many thoughtthis to be a "pretty soft snap." The "hard wood" was obtained in the scrub-oak bluffs of Colorado, 30 miles south of Denver, and cost no moi'e for trans- portation than did the soft. From Wier it is 10 miles to Cliappell— a small side-track where passenger trains seldom stop, and 9 1-10 further to LiOdge Pole— another side-track. This valley is narrow, but with bluffs, and agreat open prairie country to the northward, extending to the North Platte river, a distance of 30 miles, af- fords the finest grazing range, and large herds of cattle, and numerous bands of antelope can be seen while passing on up the valley. Colton— is a small station, 10 miles from Lodge Pole. It was named in hon- or of Francis Colton, Esq., a former general ]iassenger agent of the road. From Colton it is 7 7-10 miles to Sidney— named after the president of the road. This is a regular eating station, where trains stop 30 minutes, those from the East for breakfast, and from the West for supper. Sidney is the countv seat of Cheyenne county. Neb., and within the last few years has improved in buildings, and increased in population, until it now contains about 1.500 people. The "Lockwood" the largest hotel, is situated a little to the west of the station from which start the dailv stages for Deadwood in the Bl ck'Hills'of Dakota. Dis- tance 267 miles. Black Hills Gold Mines— For many years anterior to the building of the Pacific Eailway vague reports were circulating among old plainsmen and miners, of rich gold deposits in the Black Hills and Big Horn country, but until Gen. Custer, with a military ex- pedition, penetrated to, and explored the region about Harney's Peak in '7i, and reported gold abundant, the soil rich, the country well timbered, and most desirable, nothing definite was known. In '75 the gold-seekers began their pilgrimage to the "Hills," in '76 the numbers were greatly increase, but in '77 the great rush was at its height. These Hills lie between the 43d and 45th degrees of latitude, and the 103d and 105th parallels of longitude ; are about 100 miles long and 60 miles wide. Besides extensive and rich veins of gold and silver yielding quartz, there are found to be vast beds of coal, iron, copper, lead and mica. Placer mines are also numerous, many of which are worked with profit. The country is well watered, the mountains covered with timber, Avhile the valleys are very rich and productive agricultural lands. For grazingpurposes the coun- try about and adjacent to the "Hills" is unequaled, and stock thrives the year around upon the native grass- es. The population of this region, at present, is not far from 20.000; the greater portion are engaged in quartz mining. The ores are worked i)rin- cipally by the stamp ]:>rocess, some of the largest mills in this country being located here. The mills nowin opera- tion aggregate 1,192 — stamps, thun- dering away night and day, the yield of which, including the placer mines, for 1881 exceeded $4,500, ttOO. Dead- wood is the principal city, out of a half a hundred cfties, towns, villages and prosperous mining settlements. Sidney is the chief out-fitting ])oint for the "Hills," and freight in large quantities is shipped from here on Avagons, and it is (claimed this is the shortest and most comfortable route. Sidney has some good business blocks and private residences. The railroad comiiany have a lO-stall round house, machine shop, a large freight ware- house and depot building. To learn all about Colorado, huy "Crofutt'3 Grip-Sack Guide." It is a complete Encyclope- rlia of the State. — Sold on the trains. 42 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. The principal outflttiiig store at Sidney is owned by Mr. Chas. Moore, the pioneer ranchman of the old South Platte route ; but 'Charley' talksjjoor. Besides his big stock of goods, he has only about 5,000 head of cattle and sheep,— and by the way, Sidney is not much behind in the number of pros-, perous stock-men. Scores of her citi- zens own from 500 to 5,000 head, within range of the late "Cattle King," Iliff, to the south, on which graze 30,000 head. The Goverument has established a milU tary post at this station, and erected exten- sive barracks and warehouses. The post is on the south side of tlie track, a little to the east of the station. The old "PostTrader" at this place, Mr. James A. Moore, recently deceased, was an old pioneer, and tlie Iiero of the "Pony Express." June 8th, 1860, he made the most remarkable ride cu record. Mr. Moore was at Midway stage station on the south side of the Platte, when a very important Government despatch ar- rived for the Pacific Coast. Mounting his pony, he left for Julesburg, 140 miles dis- tant, wliere, on arriving, he met an impor- tant despatch from the Pacific; resting only seven minutes, and, without eating, re- turned to Midway, making the "round trip " — 280 miles — in fourteen hours and forty-six minutes. The d' spatch reached Hacraiuento from St. Joseph, Mo., in eight days, nine hours and forty minutes From Sidney it is 9 miles to JSrotrnson — Passenger trains do not stop. The station was named after Col. Brownson, who was with the Union Pacific from the first, and a long time their gen- eral fceiglit agent. The valley along here is very nariow, with high rocky biufls on each side. It is 9 9-10 miles further to Potter — Large quantities of wootl and ties are u>ually stored here, which are ob- tained about 20 miles north of this point, on Lawrence Fork antl Spring Canyon, tributaries of the North Platte River. Pot- ter, although not a large place, is situated FINGER ROCK, WEBER CANYON, UTAH. crofutt's new overland tourist 45 near a very large city, called Prairie Dog City — one of the larg- e-t cities on the whole line of the road. At this point, and for several miles up and down the valley, the dwellings of the prairie dogs frequently occur, but three miles west of the station they are found in large numbers, and there the great prairie dog city is situated. It occupies several hundred acres on each side of the road, wliere these sagacious little animals have taken land and established their dwellings without buying lots of the company. (We do not know whether Mr. Land-Commis- sioner, intends to eject them or not.) Their dwellings consist of a little mound, with a hole in the t"p, from a foot to a toot aud a half high, raised by the dirt excavated from their burrows. On the approach of a train, these animals can be seen scamper- ing for their houses; arrived there, they squat on their hams or stand on their hind feet, barking at the train as it passes. Should any one venture too near, down they go into their holes, and the city is silent as the city of the dead. It is said that the opening in the top leads to a subterranean chamber, connect- ing with the next dwelling, and so on through the settlement; but this is a mis- take, us in most cases a few buckets of water will drown out any one ot them The animal is of a sandy-brown color, and about the size ot a large gray squirrel. In their nest, living with the dog, may be found the owl and rattlesnake, though whether they are welcome visitors is quite uncertain. Tlie prairie dog lives on grasses and roots, aud is generally fat; and by many, espe- cially the Mexicans, considered good eating, the meat being sweet and tender, but rather greasy, unless thoroughly par- boiled. Wolves prey on the little fellows, and they may often be seen sneaking and crawling near a town, where they may, by chance, pick up an unwary straggler. But the dogs are not easily caught, for some one is always looking out for danger, and on the first intimation of trouble, the alarm is given, and away they all scamper for their holes. CouRT-HoxJSE Rock — About 40 miles due north from this station is the noted Court-House Rock, on the North Platte River. It is plainly visible for 50 miles up and dow'n that stream. It has the appear- ance of a tremendous capitol building, seated on the apex of a pyramid. From the base of the spur of the blutis on which the wiiite Court-IIouse Rock is seated, to the top of the rock, must be nearly 2,000- feet. Court-House Rock to its top is about 200 feet. Old California emigrants will re- member the place and the many names, carved by ambitious climbers, in the soft sand-stone of which it is composed. Chimney Rock — is about 25 miles up the river from Court-House Rock. It is about 500 feet high and has the appear- ance of a tremendous, cone-shaped sand- stone column, rising directly from the plain. The elements have worn away the- bluffs, leaving this harder portion standing. The next station is nine miles distant^ called 3>lx — formerly Bennett — n side- track for the accommodation of stockmen residing near. The nam© of the station is in honor of Gen. Dix, of New York. Passenger trains sel- dom stop, but roll on 9 2-10 miles further where they do stop, at Antelope — It is situated at the lower end of the Pine Bluffs, which at this point, is near the station, on the left. This station is in the center of what the plains-men call "the b(8t grass country in the world," as well as one of the best points, for antelope on the route. For article on_ stock-raising, see Annex No. 29. Six miles further and we come to Adams — an unimportant side-track, from which it is 5 9-10 miles to ItnsSBnell — This is another unimpor- tant side-track, near the boundary line be- tween Nebraska and Wyoming- Territory. Passenger trains do not stop, but pass on ten miles further to Pine ISIuiffl — where cattle-shipping- is the principal business transacted at the station. During the building of the road, this place was known as " Rock Ranche " — and a tough ranche it was. Considerable pitch pine wood was cut for the railroad in the bluffs, a few miles to the southward, from which the station derives its name. The bluffs are on the left hand side of the road,, and at this point are quite high and rocky, extending very near the track. Fort Morgan — was established in May,. 1865, abandoned in May. 18(58, and its gar- rison transferred to Laramie. It is- about 60 miles north of this station, on the North Platte River, at the western base or what is known as Scott's Bluffs. Latitude 40 deg. 80 min. ; longitude 27 deg. Our course from this station is more to- 44 PACIFKJ COAST GUIDE. the westward, for 5 (5- 10 miles to Tracy — a small side-track, where pas- senger trains seldom stop. It is 5 6-10 miles further to E g !> e r i — anoth- er unimportant side- track. Near this point we leave Lodge Pole Creek, from which to the source of the stream in the Black Hills, about 40 miles away, the valley pre- sents the same general appearance until it reaches the base of the mountains. Bears, deer and wolves abound in tlie country around the source of the stream, and herds of antelope are scatter ed over the valley. At one time beavers were plenty in the creek, and a few of these interest ing animals are still to MONUMENT ROCK, BL.\CK HILLS, U.P.R.R. be found in the lower waters of the stream, near to its junction with the Platte. This valley was once a favorite hunting-ground of the Sioux and Cheyennes, who long re- sis^ted the attempts of the Government to re- move them to a reservation to the northward. Passing on up a dry ravine 6 3-10 miles, we come to Kuril s — another small side-track — and nothing else — which is 5 7-10 miles from Hillsdale — AVhen the road was being constructed from this place to Cheyenne, a large amount of freight was re-shipped from here on wagons. Then, it was a bu.sy placfe, now, only a water-tank and side- track. The station was named after a j\Ir. Hill, one of the engineering party who was killed near this place by the-Indians while he was engaged in locating the present site of the road. About 50 miles to the south is "Fre- mont's Orchard," on the South Platte River, about 00 miles below Denver City, Colorado, and in that State. It was named after Col. i^'rcmoui, wiio discovered the point in his e.vploring expedition. It ■consists of a large grove of cottonwood trees, mostly on the south side of the river. The river here makes an abrupt bend to the north, then another to the south, cut- ting its way through a high range of sand- hills—the third range from the Missouri River. Where the river forces its way through the bluffs, they are very high and abrupt on the south side. The two'bends lea\ e a long promontory of sand hills, the end of which is washed by the waters. At a distance, this grove of cottonwoods on the bottom land reminds one of an old orchard, such as is often seen in the East- ern States. Near Fremont's Orchard is located the Green Colony, at Green City, which num- bers about 100. Passing on from Hillsdale np a ravine, which gradually ])econu's narrower as we ascend, with blufls on either hand, (3 2-10 miles, we come to Atkins— aside-track. Passing on, our train gradually rises on to the table-land, and lh''n, if the day be a fair one, ihe trav- eler can catch the first glimpse of tlie Rocky Mountains, directly ahead. On the right he can catch glimpses of the Black Hills ofAVyoming, stretching their cold, dark ruggeduess far a^vay to the right, as far as OROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 4& the eye can see ; but the bold, black line — the dark shadow on the horizon, which will soon take tangible shape and reality, but which now seems to bar our way as with a gloomy impenetrable barrier, is the "Great liocky Mountain C!hain," the back-bone of the American continent, though bearing ditferent names in the Southern hemi^ sphere. The highest peak which can be seen rising far above that dark line, its white sides gleaming above the general darkness, is Long's Peak, one of the highest peaks of the continent. Away to the left rises Pike's Peak, its towering crest robed in snow. It is one of those mountains Avhich rank among the loftiest. It is one of Col- orado's noted mountains, and on a fair day is plainly visible from this point, 175 miles distant. From Atkins it is 5 4-10 miles to Ai'cliei' — situated on the high table- land, where the cars seldom stop — is eleven miles from Hillsdale; and a little farther on, the cars pass through the first snow- shed on the Union Pacitic road, emerging with Crow Creek Valley on the left. After passing through a series of chts and fills, the track of the Denver Pacific rail- road can be seen on the left side, where it passes over the bluffs to the southeast. Directly ahead can be seen, for several miles, the far-famed "Magic City of the Plains," 8 4^10 miles from the last sta- tion — Clieyeiine — which is the capital of Wyoming, the largest town between Omaha and Ogden. Passenger trains fi'om the East and West stop here 30 min- utes, for dinner — and no better meals can be had on the road than at the Railroad House. Distance from Omaha, 516 miles; from Ogden 516 miles — just /wZ/the length of the Union Pacific road; distance to Denver, Colorado, 106 miles. Cheyenne is the county seat of Laramie county. Population about 6,000. Eleva- tion 6,041 feet. It is situated on a broad plain, with Crow Creek, a small stream, winding around two sides of the town. The land rises slightly to the westward. To the east it is apparently level, though our table of elevations shows to the contrary. The soil is composed of a gravelly forma- tion, with an average loam deposit. The sub-soil shows volcanic matter, mixed with marine fossils in large quantities. The streets of the town are broad and laid out at right angles Avith the railroad. Schools and churches are as numerous as required, and society is more orderly and well regulated than in many western places of even older establishment. The church ediuccs are the Presbyterian, Con- gregational, Episcopal, Methodist, Catho- lic, and several of other denominations. The city boasts of a $40,000 court-house, a $70,000 hotel — the Inter-Ocean — many new blocks of buildings, among which are, an opera house, banks, and stores of all kinds, besides many fine private res- idences, also a grand lake or reservoir for supplying the city with pure water, con- ducted by canal from Crow Creek, from whence smaller branches run along the sidewalks for the irrigation of gardens, trees and shrubbery, which will soon make the city a place of surpassing beauty. It also boasts of a race-course and some good "steppers." It has two dailj^ news- papers, the. Leader and the Sttn, both of which issue weeklies. Cheyenne has the usual small manufac- tories, among which the item of saddles is an important one, as the saddle of the plains and most Spanish countries, is a difterent article altogether from the Eastern "hogskin." When seated in his saddle, the rider fears neither fatigue nor injury to his animal. They are made for use — to save the animal's strength, as well as to give ease and security of seat to the rider. The best now in use is made with what is known as the "California tree." The old firm of E. L. Gallatin & Co., make these saddles a specialty, and fill orders from all over the western portion of the United States. Mexico and Soutli America. The railroad company's buildings are of stone, brought from Granite Canyon, 19 miles west. They cons i."*^ of a round-house of 20 stalls, and machine d repair shop, in which are employed 50 men. The freight office and depot buildings are of wood. The freight office was opened for business during the first part of November, 1867, at which time the road was completed to this station. No land is cultivated around Cheyenne, except a few small gardens around Crow Creek. The soil is good, and the hardiest kinds of vegetables and grains could be raised successfully with irrigation. Graz- ing is the main feature of the country. The Railroad House, before which all passenger trains stop, is one of the finest on the road, and has ample accommodations for 60 guests. The dining-room, which 46 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. «veiybody patronizes, as it is celebrated for its good fare, is tastefully ornamented with the heads and horns of the buffalo, deer, elk, antelope, mountain sheep, and other game, all preserved and looking as natural as life; here, too, is a great variety of other interesting specimens. The other hotels are the Inter-Ocean, Delmonico, on the European plan, Dyer's, Simmon's, and Metropolitan. Early Times — On the fourth day of July, 1867, there was one house in Cheyenne — no more. The tirst Mayor of Cheyenne Avas H. M. Hook, an old pioneer, elected August 10, 1867, who was afterwards drowned in Green River, while prospecting for new silver mines. In the spring of 1869, there -were 6,000 inhabitants in the place and about the vi- cinity ; but as the road extended westward, the floating, tide-ser\ing portion followed the road, leaving the more permanent set- tlers, who have i)ut up substantial build- ings of brick and stone, which mark a thriving and steadily growing city. Cheyenne, at one time, had her share of the "roughs" and gambling hells, dance- houses, and wild orgies; murders by night and day were rather the rule instead ot the exception. This lasted until the business men and quiet citizens, tired of such doings, and suddenly an impromp- tu vigilance commit- tee appeared on the scene, and several of the most desperate characters were found swinging from the end of a rope, from some convenient eleva^ tion. Others, taking the hint, which in- dicated they would take a rope unless they mended their ways, quietly left the city. At present Cheyenne is orderly and w^ell- governed. In the fall of 1869, Cheyenne suffered se- verely by a large con- flagration, which de- stroyed a considerable portion of the busi- ness part of the town. involving a loss of half-a-million dollars. The inhabitants, with commendable zeal, rebuilt, in many instances, with more durable material than before. GOVERNMENT FORTS AND CAMPS. Fort D. A. Russell — This post was es- tablished July iJl, 18j7, by General Auger, and intended to accommodate sixteen com- panies. It is three mile? from Cheyenne, on Crow Creek, which washes two sides of the enclosure. Latitude 41 deg. 08 min. ; longitude 10 deg 4.5 min. It is connected by sule-track with the Union Pacific railroad at Cheyenne. The quarter-master's depart- ment — 13 store-houses — is located between the fort and the town, at " Camp Carling." Several million pounds of Govei-nment stores are gathered here, from which the forts to the northwest draw their supplies. The reservation on w^hich the fort is situ- ated v/as declarefl by the President, June 28th, 1869, and contains 4,512 acres. Fort Laramie — This fort was estab- lished August 12th, 1869, by Major W. F. Sanderson, Mounted Rifles. The place, once a trading post of the Northwestern Fur Company, was purchased by the Gov- ernment, through Brice Husband, the com- DOWN THE WEBER RIVER, NEAR MORGAN CITY CEOFUTT S xVEAV OVERLAND TOURIST 47 pany's agent, for the site of a military post. It was at one time the winter quarters of many trajDpers and hunters. It is also noted as being the place where several treaties have been made between the sava- ges and whites — many of the former living around the fort, fed by Government, and stealing its stock in return. The res- ervation, declared by the President on the 28th of June, 1869, consists of 54 square miles. It is situated 89 miles from Chey- enne — the nearest railroad statin — on the left bank of the Laramie, about two miles from its junction with the North Platte, and on the Overland road to Oregoa and California. Latitude 42 deg. 12 min. 38 sec; longitude 104 deg. 31 min. 26 sec. FoktFettermak — This post was named in honor of Brevet Lieutenant. Col. Wm J Fetterman, Captain 18th Infantiy, killed at the Fort Phil. Kearny massacre, Decem ber 21st, 1866 , established July 19th, 1864, by four companies of the Fourth Infantry, under command of Brevet Colonel William McE. Dey, Major Fourth Infantry It is situated at the mouth of La Poele Creek, on the south side of the North Platte River, 135 miles from Cheyenne, 90 miles south of Fort Reno, and 70 miles northwesterly from Fort Laramie; latitude 42 deg. 49 min. 08 sec, longitude 105 deg. 27 min. 03 sec The reservation of sixty square miles was declared June 28th, 1869. Cheyenne is the nearest railroad station. The regu- lar conveyance from Cheyenne to the Fort is by Government mail ambulance and Black Hills stages. Fort Casper — ^was situated on the North Platte River, at'what was known as " Old Platte Bridge," on the Overland road to California and Oregon, 55 miles north of Fort Fetterman; was built during the late war; re-built bjr the 18th Infantry in 18G6, and abandoned in 1867. Its garrison, mu- nitions of war, etc., were transferred to Fort Fetterman. The bridge across the Platte at this place cost $65,000 — a wooden structure, which was destroyed by the In- f^ians shortly after the abandonment of the post. Fort Reno — ^was established during the war by General E. P Connor, for the pro- tection of the Powder River country It was situated on the Powder River, 225 miles from Cheyenne, 90 miles from Fort Fetterman, and 65 miles from Fort Phil Kearny. It was re-built in 1866 by the 18th Infantry, and abandoned in July, 1868. Fort Phil. Kearny — was established July, 1866, by four companies of the 18th Infantry, under command of Colonel H. B. Carrington, 18th Infantry. This post was situated 290 miles north of Oiey- cnne, in the very heart of the hunt- ing grounds of the northern Indians, and hence the trouble the troops had with the Indians in establishing it. Near this post is where the great massacre took place in 1866. It was abandoned in July, 1868. Fort C. F Smith — was established in 1866. by Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel N C Kinney, Captain 18th Infantry, and two companies of that regiment. It was at the foot of the Big Horn Mountain, on the Big HcMu River, 90 miles from Fort Phil. Kearny, and 380 from Cheyenne. It was abandoned in July. 1868 Here tne thoughtful will note, that the Government established four forts in this northern Powder River countrv, for the protection of the white man as against the Indian To the occupancy of the country the Indians protestetl, and the Government acceeded, and made a treaty yielding up possession of tne whole country north of the North Platte River— the Black Hills included — and abandoned the posts and the country to the Indians. When gold was discovered in this — acknowledged — Indian country, and the white man commenced to invade it — in search of gold — the Govern- ment attempted to prevent their trespassing, and to keep faith with the Indians and Gen. Sheridan issued his orders against this invasion, and sent soldiers to arrest all parties in the "Hills," and prevent Others from going to them. Finally, the Government "winked" at emigration which it could not, or would not prevent. "VVliat see we now ? The white man has taken the Indian's country, that our Gov- ernment has acknowledged belonged to the latter, has dr/'oen the Indians out, beggars: as they are, with only the bread that the Government chooses to toss to them. We are no '' Indian lover," but, if the Govern- ment had a right to build these posts, they should never have abandoned them ; having abandoned them, and treated with the Indian, as an equal, where is our boasted " civilization," when, though the lands do contain gold, we take them without a " thank you," as the elephant would crush a toad. Does might make right? Plains teamsters call a meal a "grub-pile" 48 crofutt's new overland tourist. S.5o CCi o a w Wi o o < o p pi (Jq cc o ^ is- — O a ■^^ p K-- P O 03 5 G> fra o --<" CD o o CT- C3 Hb D r-l- o o o (.J o ^ 1 & p o- B". a-' p p a- 9.05 t^?^"5 en o S ^ p r> ^ "■ , <^ t^- h-; w P h^' p i-i (D <_) P (/J P a; o E. ^^ 03 [5i pp Q Q O cc P ^j< o d ^ (^ O 2. !=:■ 0'<1 - <^ ??- Hi o H^ M r+ Cfi ^ y • o M PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 49 Union P acific R ailway. KANSAS PACIFIC DIVISION. D. E. Cornell General Agknt, Kansas Citt. Passengers at Kansas City for the "Overland Route," u/a Colorado, Utah and Nevada, will step into the Palace Cars and superb coaches of the Kansas Pacific Division of the U. P. Ry. ; pass through Denver and connect at Chey- enne, Wyo., with the " Overland "train from Omaha. See " Time Table." To write the history and record the prosperity of the Kansas Pacific and the country tributary, in the brief space allotted for that purpose in the "Overland," it will be impossible to more than register a "telegram" of the most important matters, those of the greatest interest to the tourist or emigrant. The Kansas Paci lie Railway Compa- ny, formerly tlie "Leavenworth, Paw- nee and Western," was incorporated by Act of Congress July 1, 18G2, to con- struct a railroad and telegraph line from the Missouri River, at the mouth of the Kansjis, to connect with tlie Pacific Railrojid of ;Missouri, to tlie lOOth meridian of longitude, upon the same terms and conditions as provided for the construction of the Pacific Railroad across the continent, and to meet and connect at the meridian above named. The route proposed was from the mouth of the Kansas River to the junction of the Republican Fork, at Fort Riley; thence up the Republican, over the " divide" and Platte River and connect with the Union Pacific near Kearny Station. Work commenced on the " K. P." at Wyandotte. Kansas, September 1, 1803. By Act of Congress of July 2, 18G4, the company acquired additional rights; and again, by amendment of the original Act, approved July 3, 186G, was authorized to change their route and build westward— on the 39th par- allel—from Fort Riley up the Smoky Hill River to Denver, in Colorado; thence to a junction with the Union Pacific at or near Cheyenne, Wyoming. 4 Tlie road was completed to Denver" in 1870, and in 1872, by the purchase of a controlling interest in the Denver Pacific, reached Cheyenne ; and again, by a sale in 1879, passed to the management of Union Pacific parties, where it still remains. Distance from Kansas City to Denver, 639 miles; from Denver to Cheyenne, 106 miles. The branch lines, six in number, make a mileage, re- spectively : 32 miles, 40 miles, 57 miles, 70 miles, -21 miles and 23 miles; total, branches, 249 miles ; total, whole line, 994 miles. Kansas City is the eastern termi- nus of the main line of the Kansas Pacific Railway. Prior to 1839 the place was known as " Westport Land- ing," but in that year was changed to Kansas City, with a population — most- ly traders, hunters and trappers — of 300. iVoi^j it claims G1,000. The city is built on a high bluff on the south bank of the great bend of the Missouri River, just below the mouth of the " Kaw " — or Kansas River. Its central location has, from the first, enabled it to control a large trade with the coun- try to the west and southward, which, since the advent of railroads, has grown to an enormous business. The Missouri Pacific was the first railroad completed to Kansas City from the eastward, where it arrived October 1, 1865, since which time nine have ar- rived to bid for and share the business which often taxes their entire combined capacity. As a live stock center — cat- tle, sheep and hogs — and for slaughter- ing, packing or shipping, Kansas City has no equal in the western country. The stock yards, beef and pork packing establishments are immense — are situa- ted on the bottom lands in the western part of the city, south of the Union Depot, and are well worthy a visit by the traveller. The fiTst bridge over the Missouri was commenced at Kansas City, and its completion celebrated July 4, 1869. 50 cnoFUTT s NEAv ovE :land tourist Kansas City pusscsses all the modern improvements— lioise railroads, tas, water works, etc.; churches and scliools in great numbers, opera house, theatre, daily jiapers, and of hotels, a few dozen, chief of which are the Coates, St. James and Pacific. Wyandotte, Kansas, is about two miles west, across the Kans;is llivei", and might well be called a suburb of Kansas City— it is connected by horse cars— has a population of about 6,ouO, many of whom do Ijusiness in Kansas City and reside in AVyandotte. The town is on a portion of the lands once owned by the Delaware Indians, wlio Bold them in 1842 to the Wyandotte In- dians, the remnants of a tribe from the State of Ohio. The lands are in a high Btate of cultivation, and large orchards of fruit are numerous. Tlie Kansas State Institution for the Blind is located at AVyandotte. Leaving the Union Depot— which is used by all the railroads in common that enter Kansas City— we soon cross the Kansas River and the State Line, pass Armstrong at the end of one mile — where are located the machine shops of the Kansas Pacilic- and fol- lowing along on the west bank of the river one-lialf mile further to Muncy Siding. The river in places is close on the left; the bottoms are wide and covered witli trees, with here and there a clearing. On the right the view is obstructed by high bluffs covered with brush or small trees. Continuing on 4.4 miles we come to Edwards- ville; 3.6 miles more to Tiblow, and 3.2 miles to Loring, from which it is three miles to Lenape, and 4.4 miles more to Linwood, where Strang- er Creek is crossed. The timber on the Kansas River bot- toms consists of red and burr oak, hackberry, ash, hickory, cottonwood and sycamore. The acreage under cul- tivation is increasing, and after a run of five miles from Linwood we pass Fall Leaf, an unimportant station, be- yond which the country fairly "spreads out," and we get a first view of the great rolling prairies of Kansas. Leavenworth Junction is the next station; distance 4.5 miles from Fall Leaf, 36 miles from Kansas City and 32 miles from Lea »-en worth. Let us take a run over tne liCaveiiworth Branck, — This road runs through a section of country the greater portion of which is under cultivation. Tlie stations are Reno, five miles; Tonganoxie, two miles; Moore's Summit, two miles; Bio Stranger, three miles; IIoge, four miles, and five more to Fairmont, the most important station on the line. It is situated on a i)ortion of the Dela- ware Indian Reservation, first pur- chased from the Indians by the Kansas Pacific Railway Company, and by them re-sold to a class of farmers and stock raisers who have become prosperous. After leaving Fairmont several small stations are passed — the first, Penitentiary, where the State insti- tution of that name is located — and a run of ten miles brings us to Iieaveii worth, situated on the west bank of the Missouri River, and contains a ]»opulation of 18.000. It was settled in 1854, and is surrounded by a section of country of unsurpass- ing fertility. Leavenworth has all the metropolitan features of a big city — horse railroads, gas, water works, a big railroad bridge over the Missouri, twentv-six cliurclies, exclusive of a Catholic cathedral that cost .$130,000, nine banks, six daily papers and a score or more of hotels, besides quite a num- ber of manufactories. Fort Leavenworth is two miles north of the city— established in 1827- and is now the headquarters' Department of tlie Missouri. Returning to the Junction, about one mile and we are at Bismark Grove— On the right of the road. It contains about 40 acres heavily timbered witli oaks and elms, in the center of which is a beautiful lake. This grove has become widely known of late as the place where the first National Temperance Camp Meeting was held. From the Grove it is one mile to liaivrence. — So named for the mil- lionaire Lawrences, of Boston, Mass. The city proper is opposite the depot, on the south side of the Kansas River, about one mile distant, readied bj several fine bridges. It is situated in PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 51 the midst of the richest and most fer- tile section of Kansas, as well as be- ing the most beautiful city in the State. Here, too, are street railroads, gas, water works, and, in fact, all tlie im- provements and conveniences found in tlie large cities east. Population, about 15,000. Settled in 1854. Raided by Quantrell's band, August 21, ISo:;, who burned the town and murdered upwards of 100 unarmed citizens. In the southern portion of the city is located the State University, on the summit of Mount Oread ; from which point you look upon a very beautiful landscape, dotted, in all directions, with hundreds of farm houses. The Carbonda LE Branch of the "K. P." leads off from this place — .32 miles to Carbondale. The stations and distan- ces between, are: Siegel, 7.5 miles; Bel- voir, 5 miles; Richland, 6.3 miles; Kin- ney's 8.2 miles ; S ummit,4 miles ; Carbon- dale, 1 mile. Th ' Leavenworth, Lawrence a;id Galveston Railroad, coming in from the South, is another element of pros- perity for the city. From Lawrence it is 6.4 miles to Buck Creek, a small station, then tliree more to Williamston, and 3.2 miles to Perryville. These are all small stations, surrounded by a thrifty farming community, and are gro a ing in importance. Ab.mt one mile be- yond Perryville, we cross Grasshopper River, upon which are located several llouring mills, and small manufactor- ies. The river is well timbered, — oak, hickory, elm, ash, Cottonwood and soft maple, principally. The Grassliopper unites with the Kansas River, opi)osite the old town of Lecompton, of "Lecompton constitu- tion" notoriety. The soil is a black loam, and very productive. The lands were once a portion of the Delaware Indian Reservation. From Perryville it is 3.2 miles to Medina. — The town was laid out in 1860, and with the near surroundings, has a population of about 1,500, mostly engaged in agricultural pursuits. Two miles north of the station is located the old "Indian Mill Farm," which has been under cultivation lor over 35 years. From Medina it is 2.5 miles to Newman from which it is 5.2 miles to Grantsville, a small station of the west bank of Muddy Creek. Tills section is noted, if at all, for its "Osage Orange" hedges, some of \\ hich are very fine. Six miles further, and our road crosses the track of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Rail- road, which is completed from Atchi- son and Kansas City to Deming, in New Mexico, with the Pacific Coast for an objection point. The crossing is only a few hundred yards from the depot at Topeka — The capital of the State. Population, 15,43:>. Here passenger trains stop 20 minutes for meals. Topeka is in Siiawnee County, situat- ed on the north bank of the l-Cansas River, and surrounded by a very rich and fertile country; was located in 1854. The river is crossed at Topeka on one of the "King Iron Tubular Bridges," a solid structure 900 feet in length, composed of six spans, resting on stone piers, built from the "bed rock" in the river. The Capitol is a fine building, built of what is called in this country "Junc- tion City Marble," a white magnesian limestone, found in many places in the State. It can be quarried in blocks f 1 om - to 10 tons in weight, and when fresh from the quarry is very easy to saw. The Government buildings at Fort Riley are built of this kind of stone, and has proved satisfactory. The Capi- tol cost «400,000. While we are here at the Seat of Government, we will note a few items in regard to the State. Kansas has an area of 52,053,520 acres, of which 4U,- 000,000 is unimproved, awaiting tlie reader. Price from $1.25 to SM per acre. Present population of the State 9'.)5,3;^5. It has a school fund of $1,555,- 3G0, which is augraenti ng yearly. There are 4,520 school houses, 6,359 teachers, and 26ti,576 scholars. Then there are three Normal Schools, for educating teachers; the University at Lawrence, and the Agricultural College at Man- hattan. On the line of the Kansas Pacific, there are 76 grain elevators, with storage capacity of 2,515,10i) bush- els; and 52 flouring mills, with lO'J run of stone; capacity, 4,310 barrels per day. 52 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Leaving Topeka, Me-no-ken, a small stiitioii, is reached in 4.7 miles; Silver Lake in 5.9; Kinosville in 2.7 ; RossviLLK in 2.8, and 7.6 miles more to St. Mary's — an important station, in some respects. The country for the last 25 miles, and surrounding the town, is thickly settled, and the greater portion cultivated. Corn is the prin- cipal crop, though much wheat and vegetables are raised. The Jesuit Fathers visited this country nearly 40 years ago, and estab- lished Mission Schools among the In- dians. More recently they have erect- ed here large educational institutions; one for ladies, is known as "The Sem- inary of the Sacred Heart." The build- ing to the north of the railroad, is of brick, with stone trimmings. 100 feet front and four stories in height, com- pleted in 187L The College for males IS adjoining, and can accommodate 1,300 students. From St. Mary's it is 6.2 miles to Belvue, a small station 6.9 miles from the end of the Kaw Division, First District, which is at Wamego.— This is a large and thriving town situated in the midst of a country well watered by numerous small creeks, very fertile and thickly settled. The next station, 6.6 miles, is St. George, another growing town of about 700 population, from which it is 7.8 miles to Manhattan. — Population, about 2,000 ; County Seat of Riley County, 117 miles west of Kansas City. The town is situated near the junction of the Kansas and Blue rivers, was settled in 1854 by a colony of Ohio "Pilgrims," who purchased a small steamboat at Cincinnati, steamed down the Ohio river, and thence up the Mississippi, Missouri, and Kansas rivers to this place, wliere they settled, in what was then a wild Indian country, living on their boat until buildings could be erected, T lie Kansas State Agricultural Col- lege — an experimental farm — is located at Manhattan. Congress, in its benev- olent wisdom, endowed this Cnllege with aland grant of 81,000 acres, 50,000 of which has been sold, realizing the snug sum of $238,000. The institution has 400 acres fenced and cultivate the greater portion with vineyards and orchards of fruit of every variety. Leaving Manhattan a few miles, the bluffs come close on the right, in places 500 feet in height, covered with trees, rocks and grass alternating, while the river comes in close to the road, on the left, and again receding for miles, along the banks of which ash, oak, hickory, cottonwood and elm trees grow in profusion. Here, too, can be seen some fine farms, surrounded by beautiful osage orange liedge From Manhattan it is 11. i miles to Ogden — A town of some historic interest in the annals of the State, as being the place where the first Terri- torial Legislature, convened by Gov. Reeder, met to " Save the Country " The place was firsi settled in 1856. Six miles further is the station of Fort Riley— So called for the Fort of that name, situated upon the high plateau to the right ; established in 1852, is in latitude 39° nortu, 96°30'' west. The post was first known as " Camp Center," being situated in the geograr phical center of the United States. .function City.— County Seat of Davis County, is 2.7 miles west of Fort Riley, and is destined to be a place of much importance. It was located in 1859, has grown rapidly and now con- tains 5,000 population. Here, is located the marble quarries before alluded to; here, too, is the northern terminus of the Missouri, Kansas & Texas Railroad, and the Junction City & Fort Kearny Railway, The Republican River unites with the Kansas River at this point, up which is completed the J., C. & F. K. Railway, a branch of tli ■ Kansas Pacific, to Concordia, 70 miles north- west. The stations and distances between are: Alder, 7.7 miles; Milford, 5.4 miles ; Wakefield, 6 miles ; Clay Cen- ter, 14 miles; Morganville, 7.6 miles; Clifton, 8.7 miles ; C, B., U. P. Crossing, 4.9 miles; Clyde, 0.8 miles; Lawrence- burg, 7.6 miles; Concordia, 7.4 miles. The valley of the Republican is one of the richest and most productive in the State. It was the Indian's home, to retain which he fought tlie white man long and bitterly, and with the usual PACIFIC COAST (irn>K. 53 result, the Indian Jiad to go I He went I Wliere once roamed his " pony herd " in tiiousands, now can be cou ite I the dwellings of his successors in equal numbers; where once tlie Indian's beef (buffalo) ranged in untold millions now range the while man's beef. The buf- falo has gone — went with the Indians. Will tlie time ever come when the "suc- cessors" will he succeededhy ii stronger and more enlightened race? Will they in turn ever be driven out and exter- minated? — Quien saheW At Junction City the Smoky Hill river comes in from tlie southward, which, with the Republican, forms the Kansas river. The Smoky will be on our left for the next 47 miles, to Salina. After leaving Junction City, a pecu- liar rock formation is noticeable on the right along the summit of the bluffs resembling a long line of fortifications. Another item, we record for the ben- efit of the sportsman ; feathered game in great abundance are found on the prairies, and along the rivers and small streams in Kansas, sucli as prairie chicken, quail, ducks, geese, snipe, plover, swans, cranes, pelican, an many other varieties. Then a run of .5.8 miles to CnAPMAN, 8.2 miles to Detroit, and 5.2 miles more and we reach Abilene — county seat of Dicken- son county. Population .about 2,000. Piissenger train* stop 30 minutes — oppo- site the Henry House — for meals, which are the best on the road. This station was the first gi-eat cattle shipiting point on the Kansas Pacific Railway. From 1SG7 to 1870, the number loaded on the cars and sent east, were from 75,000 to 150,000 a year, but as the agriculturalist crowded in, the cattle- men were crowded out, and we will find them now — far to the westward. We are now in what is called the "Golden Belt" — so named for the won- derful adaptability of the country for raising wheat and other small grains, These "belt" lands, it is claimed, com- mence near Junction City, and ex- tends beyond Ellis— about 200 miles in length. Wheat is the principal crop, and comprises one half of all the pro- ductions. There are several fields of wheat, near Abilene, of 1.000 acres each. one of 3,000, and one of .^,500. Of late years, tree-planting h;is been quite an industry. Orchards of fruit are num- erous, and successfully raised. From Abilene it is 4.4 miles to Sand Springs, a Signal Station, thence 4.6 miles to Solomon — situated near the junc- tion of the Smoky Hill and Solomon Rivers, in the midst of a thrifty agri- cultural section. Population about 500. The Solomon Railroad, another branch of the "K. P.," is built up the valley of the Solomon to Reloit, 58 miles northwest from this station. Several Salt Springs are near the town, and the buildings erected for the purpose of manufacturing the salt are quite ex- tensive, and can be seen from the cars after leaving the station. Leaving Solomon, we cross the river of that name, and 7.8 miles arrive at New Cambria, a small station situated on a broad plain, dotted, in all direc- tions with the neat little cottages of the settlers, who are principally engag- ed raising wheat and corn. Six miles further we reach ISalina— the County Seat of Salina County, settled in 1858. Just before reaching the station we cross the Sali- na River, which comes down from the north-west. Salina has a population of about 3,000, some large grain elevators, several good hotels, papers and another railroad, tlie Salina & Soutiiwestei{n. This branch comes to McPherson,distant3G miles to the southwest. Situated on the Smoky Hill River, near the Swed- ish colony who settled here in J 870. The principal occui)ation of the peo- ple is agriculture, although there are many herds of cattle and sheep in the county, and some extensive quarries of Gypsum, or Plaster of Paris, also sev- eral Salt Sprin^js that are being utelized for the production of salt. Along all the rivers and streams about this section of country are belts of timber, consisting of Cottonwood, oak, mulbej ry, elm and hackberry. Bavaria — is the next station 8.4 miles from Salina, where is located a colony from the Western Reserve of Ohio, who settled here in iSOf). This colony has been very success lul, wheat 54 crofutt's new overland tourist and com crops being their reliance. A run of 6.6 miles brings us to the end of the second district of the Kaw Valley Division of tlie road, at Brookville.— Here the Railroad Company have the usual division re- pair shops, good depot buildings, and extensive cattle pens. Population, about 500. The country surrounding the station is a rolling prairie, on which can be seen, besides the usual wheat and corn fields, an occasional herd of cattle and sheep. Leaving Brookville, we pass several small stations in the order, and distances between as fol- lows: 4.2 miles to Rock Springs; 1.8 miles to Terra Cotta; 4.4 miles to Elm Creek; 5.1 miles to Summit Sid- ing ; 2.5 miles to Fort Harker, and old Government post, on the left, built in 1867-8. abandoned ; and 4.7 miles to Ellsworth— County Seat of Ells- worth County, situated on the north bend of the Smoky Hill River. Set- tled in 1867 ; present population 1,100. The town has some good stone build- ings, a large grain elevator, several hotels, cattle pens and shutes — tlie latter not of much use of late, as the farmers are crowding the cattle-men a little further west. The next station is Black Wolf, 7.2 miles; then Cow Creek, 2.3 miles. Wilson's — is 6.5 miles from Cow Creek. This is a thrifty town of 400 population, situated in a rolling prairie country, fast tilling up with settlers. From Wilson's it is 6.4 miles to Dar- KANCE, and 7.3 miles to Bunker Hill, the County Seat of Russell County, population, 400; first settled in 1871, by a colonv from Ohio. Near the station Salt Springs abound, lime stone is plentiful, some coal, and abundance of mineral paint, and pottery c'av. Pass- ing on we pass through IIomer in 5.3 miles, and 4.6 miles more to Itussell — population about 800; settled in 1861, by a colony from Ripon, Wisconsin, and is situated about four miles south of the south bend of tlie Saline River, and surrounded by rich agricultural lands, well cultivated. Leaving Russell it is 0.1 miles to GoR- HAM ; three more to Walker; and 3.9 miles further to Victoria— Six miles south of the station is located the "Victoria Colony," established by the late Mr. George Grant,a wealthy scotchman.who bought 30,000 acres of land here, sold a portion to settlers and retained a large estate for himself. The lands have a rich soil, are well cultivated, and dotted in all di- rections with the homes of the settlers, and their herd of horses, cattle, and sheep. From Victoria it is 1 0.5 miles to Hays — County Seat of Ellis County —named for the post established in 1867, about half a mile south of the station on a high plateau. Hays has a population exclusively of soldiers, of about 700, many of whom are engaged in stock-raising — as be it known we have reached the western limits of the agriculturalists, and soon will bid them l^ood bye, and grip the hand of the lierdsman. The next station is 13.2 miles distant, and is the end of the third district of the Smoky Hill Division. Ellis.— We are now on the "Cattle Trail." At this station are immense yards and shutes, for the accommoda- tion of stockmen, many of whom drive up great droves of cattle from Texas, and the country to the southwest, as well as graze them in the surround- ing country. In fact, this is the great- est cattle-shipping point on the road. The grasses are mostly "bunch grass" and "buffalo," or "grandma grass," the richest and most nutritious grown. The aiticle on "Western Stock Raising," —in Annex. No. 29— will apply equally as well in this section as the one for which it was written. Ellis has about 500 enterprising, law- abiding citizens, most of them are en- gaged in stock-raising, yet, ot late, the agriculturalists are crowding in, buy- ing up the lands, and it will not be long before the cattle-men — who do not buy land— will have to go west. From Ellis it is 10.3 miles to Oqal- lah, an unimportant station, from which it is 9 miles to \Va-Keeney,— one of the most en- terprising towns on the road. It con- tains about .500 citizens, many of them are engaged in agricultural pursuits, but the greater portion in the cattle business. Here we find one of the finest depot buildings on the road ; it is PACIFIC COxVST GUIDE. 55 tox^* SUMMIT OF THE MOUNTAIXR, I0,000 FEET HIGH. 100 feet by 30 feet, aod 32 feet high, surmounted with a tower 50 feet high, and a platform 27 feet wide. There are many fine stone buildings, princi- pal of which is the Oaks House. Leav- ing "Wa-Iveeney, we pass on rapidly through a section of country almost wholly occupied by cattle men, pass- ing the stations, with the distances between as follows: Colyer, 14.1 miles; Buffalo, 14.3 miles ;GRAiNFiELr), 5.5 miles ; Giunnell, 9 miles ; Caelyle, 12.1 miles; Mox't Siding, 9.4 miles; MoNUMEifc, 2 miles ; Gopher, 9.7 miles ; Sheridan, 7.6 miles; and 15.1 miles more to Wallace — A regular eating station, where good meals are served for 75 cts. Population about 2.50. It is the end of the third district of the Smoky Hill Division, and the commencement of the Denver Division. The station is in the midst of a rolling prairie, two miles north-west of Fort Wallace, established in 1866. It is situated on the fork of the Smoky Hill Kiver, in latitude 38 deg., 55 min.. and longitude 100 deg., 50 min. from Greenwich. For the last hundred miles the coun- try is almost wholly occupied by the cattle-men, and willcontinue to be for the next 150 miles, so we shall pass mostof the stations, by simply naming them and the distance between : From Wallace it is 8.5 miles to Eagle Tail; 8.3 miles to Monnotony Siding; 3.2 miles to Monnotony^ — we are nearing Monnotony on all sides now — 12 miles to Arapaho, where the State line is crossed, and we enter Colorado ; 9.5 miles to Cheyenne Wells ; 10.5 miles to First View— where, if the 56 crofutt's new overland tourist. ^7 day be clear, the fli'st view of Pike's Peak and the PiOelcy Mountains are to be had— and 14.7 miles more to M.it UarsoiJ— named for the old liunter,trapper and guide of that name — and somewliat famous as being the ]:)laee where the Grand Duke Alexis of Bussia tarried to hunt buffalo, in Jan- luary, 1872. It was a big hunt, and it is said that the Duke killed 40 of the noble animals, and, by the way, we have been in the old buffalo range for the last 250 miles, but, of late years, few, if any, have been seen— went with the Indians. From Kit Carson it is 11.9 miles to Wild Horse, named for a band of wild horses that once roamed over this country ; 10.9 miles to Aroyo ; 13.4 to Mirage, and 11 more to Hngo — an eating station, from which it is 12.5 to Lake, wdiere are a few pools of water. 8.8 miles to River Bend, situated on the big bend of the Big Sandy Creek; G.3 miles to Cedar Point; 4.2 miles to Godfry's, where there are some coal mines of fair qua- lity ; 4.9 miles to Agate, noted for the moss agates found near the station; 12.2 miles to Deer Tail, situated on East Bijou Creek; 12 miles to Byers. Prom Byers it is 12.4 miles to Bennet ; 9.4 miles to Box Elder, situated on a creek of that name; from which it is 12.4 miles to Schuyler, and 9.3 miles more to Denver. Remember! For full and complete information in regard to Colorado, its wonderful mines of gold, silver, cop- per and other precious metals, its agricultural, stock-raising and varied resources ; its pleasure resorts, lakes, rivers, mountains, parks, sulphur, so- da, hot and medicinal springs ; its magnificent scenery, railways, etc., ].)uy "Crofutt's Grip-Sack Guide" of Colorado, a complete encyclopedia of the State, profusely illustrated. " Tour" No. one gives a complete description of the route and country from Denver to Cheyenne, where con- nections are made with the Overland trains from Omaha and San Francis- co. Sold on all trains. Leaving Cheyenne, just in the bor- der of the city we cross Crow Creek, and about two miles from the city — by looking to the right, northward — a fine view can be had of Fort Davy Russell, previously described. We are now ascending the eastern slope of the southern range of the Black Hills of Wyoming, which are stretch- ing away in a long rugged line be- fore us. Colorado Jniifiioii — six miles west of Cheyenne, is the first station we reach, and the junction of the Co- lorado Central Branch The track turns off at the left of the station and crosses the prairie and hills to the southward. Four miles from the Junction, Borie, a small side-track, is passed, from which it is 4.2 miles to Otto — Passenger trains usually meet here, stop a few moments, ex- change letters and papers, then pass on FIRST STEAM RAILROAD TRAIII I^i AMTflRlCA. The above illusti'ation Tras drawn and en- graved from the original painting in the posses- sion of the Connecticut Historical Society, and represents an Excursion Train on the Mohawk and Hudson B. R. from Albany to Schenectady, N. Y., in 1831, the FIRST steam train in America. The engine was the "John Bull," imported from England, as well as the engineer, John Hampton, " expressly for this road, at large ex- pense." Her cylinder was 5'o inches, 1 G inch stroke, wlieels i'-.. feet. The boilers had thirty copper tubes, five feet long, fourinches in diame- ter. Conncctingrods are worked on doublecranks on front axle. Weight of engine, complete, 4 tons. The tender represents the method of carrying the fuel — wood— in barrels, with a few sticks handy for immediate use. The earn were regular stage bodies set on car wheels. On this grand excur- sion trial trip were sixteen persons, who were then thought venturesome, many of whom have since filled important positions in the councils of the country. Mr. Sidney DiUon, President of the Union I'.icificR. li., it seems, was one of the adventurous few. Here is food for thought and comparison with the iuiprovemeuts of the pres- ent day. crofutt's new overland tourist 57 — one going East for light, the other West for kno'wledge. We are now 6,724 feet above the sea, and the traveler should note the rapid rise made from this point, in surmounting the Blaclv Hills. Here the heavy grading commences, and snow fences will be nu- merous till we get over the " Hills." To the north of this place, at the base of the Hills, is a tine valley, where Crow Creek finds its source in many fine springs. The valley contains very superior grazing land, and in conjunction with the adja- cent hills, attbrds ample game foi* the hunter. Fifteen miles from this station, to the north, at the eastern entrance of Cheyenne Pass, is the site of old Fort Walbach, now deserted. Near this fort are the head waters of Lodge Pole Creek. Cii-ranite Canyon — is five miles west of Otto, and 574 feet higher. At this point are extensive stone quarries, whence was taken the rock for the company's build- ings in Cheyenne, also for the stone ware- houses. Limestone abounds in this vicin- ity, and many kilns have been erected. To the left of the road, and down the canyon a few hundred yatds, is a fine spring, from whence the water is elevated to the tank by the roadside. Half a mile to the south are a number of fine springs, which — with others to the westward — are the head-wa- ters of Lone Tree Creek, a tributary of the South Platte lliver. Along the road now is heavy rock-work, and on the exposed portions of the road may be seen the snow- sheds and snow-fences, built of plank or stone. Bllt'ord. — is a small side-track, 6 9-10 milts further. Heavy rock-work, and snow-sheds and fences mark the road. Water for the station is elevated from springs down the ravine, to the southward. The country here presents a wild, rug- ged and grand appearance. The level ground or little valleys are covered with a fine coat of buttalo grass, and now and then clumps of stunted pine appear by the roadside. On either hand, near bj-, bigh, bold masses of granite rear their gray sides, piled one on the other, in wild confusion. Up, up, still higher, in the background are the rocky, pine-clad peaks of the Black Hills. The scene is pecu- liarly impressive as we near Sherman, especially if it chances to be one of those days when the clouds fioat low down the horizon ; then the traveler looks over the intervening space between him and the mountain range beyond, and sees naught but floating masses of vapor; no moun- tains, no valley, no forest, only these fleecy shapes, and a long, dark line rising above them, o'.ertopped by the glistening sides of Long's Peak. The altitude gained, we see on the north side of the road,a sign- board— "Summit of the Mountains;" and soon after reach •Sherman — eight thousand two hundred and forty -two feet above leve\ of the sea. It is named in honor of Gen. Sherman. On a high point just south of the station, a monument is being erected to the memory of Oakes and "Oliver Ames. Sherman is 549 miles from Omaha and 1,365 from San Francisco, and is not noted for its size. The trains stop here but a few min- utes. The company's buildings consist of a comfortable station, a small repair shop, and a round-huuse of five stalls. A post- otfice, telegraph and express offices, one store, two hotels, two saloons, and about twenty houses of all sorts, constitute the town. Seventy miles to the southwest is Long's Peak, and 165 miles to the south is Pike's Peak, both plainly visible. To the north- west, about 100 miles distant, is Elk Moun- tain, another noted land-mark. The maxi- mum grade from Cheyenne to Sherman is 88.176 feet per mile. The freight taken on at this station for the East and West is quite extensive, consisting of sawed lum- ber, telegraph poles, and wood obtained in the hills and ravines but a few miles dis- tant to the northward. On many of these hills, and in the canyons, are found a dense growth of hard spruce pine, which, as to quality and adaptability for being dressed, resembles the hemlock of the Eastern States. The winters are not as severe at Sherman as many think, neither is the snow-fall as deep as many would suppose from seeing the great number of snow-sheds and fences ; snow seldom falls more than a few inches in depth. It is not the depth of snow that causes auy inconvenience to the working of the road, but it is the drifting of it into the cuts during the heavy winds. For the purpose of preventing this, the sheds, fences and walls are erected along the road, the latter a few rods away from the banks of the cuts. The fences cause an eddy or current of air, which piles the snow along in huge drifts, keeping it, in a 58 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. great measure, fiom the track. Snou-sbeds cover the deepest cuts along the road, where obstructions from the snow are most likely to occur. The cold rains and deep- est snows come with an east wind ; the worst storms come from the southwest. Tiie thermometer at Sherman ranges from 82 deg. Fahrenheit, in the summer, to 30 deg. below zero in winter. Springs of sparkling water are numerous in tlie surrounding country, and form many small streams which wind their way among rocks and through gorges until they are lost in the waters of other streams. At this elevated point, the tourist, if his "wind is good," can spend a long time pleasantly in wandering amid some of the wildest, grandest scenes to be found on the continent. There are places where the rocks rise higher, where the chasms are far deeper, where the surrounding ])eaks may bg loftier, and the torrents might- ier in their power, and still they do not possess such, power over the mind of man as does the wild, desolate-looking land- scape around Sherman. Although the plateau is covered with grass, and occa- sional shrubs and stunted trees greet the eye, the surrounding bleakness and deso- lation render this place one of awful gran- deur. The hand of Ilim who rules the universb is nowhere else more marked, and in no place will the tourist feel so utterly alone, so completely isolated from man- kind, and left entirely with nature, as at Sherman, on the Black Hills of AVyoming. At the first the tourist experiences much difhculty in breathing, the extreme light- ness of the air trying the lungs to their ut- most capacity, but becoming accustomed to the change, and inhaling long draughts of ihe pure mountain air, will greatly pre- fer it to a heavier atmosphere. Fisii AND Game — There is no spot along the line of road which can be compared to the locality around Sherman for trout fish- PALISADES OF THE IILMBOLDT RIVER, C. P. R.R. ckofutt's new ovekland tourist 5& ing. The tiniest rivulets swarm with them, and their speckled sides glisten in every eddy. They weigh from one-fourth to two pounds, and their flesh is as hard and white as that of the mountain trout of Vermont. Antelope, elk, black -tailed deei, bear, sage hens and grouse abound in the hills and on the plateaus. The angler, hunter, or tourist should never pass Sherman with- out pausing Song enougli to fly a hook and try his rifle. Doubtless tnis point will be- come r. favorit'i summer resort for travelers, when the hotel accommodations are uch as to entice them to remain, as it possesses eminent attractions for hunting and tishing. From Sherman to Rawlin's, 16C miles, the road runs between the Black Hills and the Rocky Mountain range, presenting varied and impressive scenerj- at various points. Leaving Sherman , the road turns to the lett, and passes through several long snow- sheds and deep rock cuts to Dale Oreek Bridge — Dale Creek is a noted stream, although a small one, and should Iiave a noted Driage — as it has. When the road was being constructed over these hills, in 1867, the railroad company built a plated wooden frame-work structure 650 feet long, from biufl' to bluft' and 126 feet high. The bridge stood on trestles, interlaced with each other, and securely corded together and stayed by wire cables, secured to, and sloping from, the bridge on each side to substantial anchorage, down into the valley below, presenting a light and graceful appearance when viewed from the creek below. This old bridge was replaced in 1877 by one of iron, of similar dimensions, built in the most sub- stantial manner— -sec illustration, page 49. From the bridge, the beautiful little stream looks like a silver thread below us, the sun glistening its surface with a thou- sand flashes of silvery light. Anon, the dark walls of the canyon shade it, as though they were envious cr jealous of its beauty being rendered common property. A narrow, gi-een valley, half a mile above the bridge, is the site of the former Dale City, where, at ona time, were over 600 inhabitants. Now, a few hundred yards above the bridge, can be seen a soli- tary house— like a lone sentinel in front of a deserted camp. Here, too, as well as around Sherman, and all over the Black Hills, are found countless flowers of every variety and hue, over 300 varieties of which have been classiti«l. Virginia Dale — is situated fifteen miles southwest of Sherman, in Colorado, at the head of a deep gorge, on Dale Creek, near the Cache-a-la Poudre River. On the east side of the canyon, the wall of overhanging rock rises about 600 feet high, for a mile along the stream, giving a wild and pictur-. esque beauty, a sublimity and grandeur to the scene, rarely surpassed. This point is called the "Lover's Leap," though we never learned that any one ever leaped ofl"; but it the leap was made, we judge that the jar on aligliting in the valley, 6li0 feet below, must have knocked all the love, romance or sentiment out of those making- it In and around this place are numerous dells, grottoes, gorges, canyons, precipices, towering peaks and rugged recesses, enough to employ the tourist for some time in examining their beauties. Some "yellow-covered novelist" haa immortalized Virginia Dale, by calling it the "Robbers' Roost," though failing to inform us what they roosted on. But aside from this questionable honor, Virginia Dale is the most widely known and cele- brated of any locality in these mountains. There are a few good buildings around the place, where excursionists, who visit to enjoy the scenery, mountain air, and rare fishing and hunting, are provided for. See Annex, No 10. We now return to the railroad, cross the bridge, and turn away to the northward, through long snow-sheds and rocky cuts, made through red sandstone, six miles to Tie hiding — This station is important only in the lact of its being a point where great quantities of ties and wood are brought to the railroad from the hills to the northward. The view to the south is that of a very broken and rugged coun- try. To the west, the southern entl of the great Laramie Plains is spread out, almost at our feet, tweuty miles in width,, with the wondrous Rocky Mountains ris- ing from its western border, range upon range, peak overlapping peak, away up, up into the regions of perpetual snow, over one hundred miles away. Our train is descending rapidly, and more to the northward; steam is nc longer required — only brakes. Onward. 4 1-10 miles, through snow-sheds and deep exca- vations, brings us to Harney — an unimportant station I*assing on, to the left can be seen the old PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. CROSSING THE RANGE ON SNOW SKATES-SEE ANNEX NO. 32. Denver and Salt Lake staire road, the tele- graph markinir the line for some distance along the railroad. On the rit>hf hand, the whole valley has been fenced in for gazing jDurposes. The next station is 4 1-2 mi'es, denomi- Eated Red Bnttes— This locality derived its name from several ridges and peculiar lorm;i,tions of sandstone lying between the railroad and the Black Iliilson the right. Many of these sandstones rear their peaks from 500 to 1 ,000 feet above the plain, apparently worn and washed bj^ the ■elements, into wild, fantastic shapes and grotesque figures. Rocks which, at a dis- tance, might be taken for casties, rise side by side with the wall of an immense fort ; ■churches rear their roofs, almost shading the lowly cottage by their side; columns, monuments and pyramids are mixed up with themselves and each other, as though some malignant power had cairicd oft" some mighty city of the olden time, and, wearying of his booty, had thrown it down upon these plains, without much regard to the order in which the buildings were placed. Some few only of these curiosities, can be seen from the car windows, and those are not the largest. The tourist, by stopping over a dayor two at Laramie, would find much of' interest in this section of the country. The Laramie River rises about 50 miles to the soulhwest from Red Buttes, on the eastern slope oi the mountains — its source being composed of a' most innumerable springs. lis general course is northeast for 200 miles, when it empties into the North Platte River at Fort Laramie. During the building of the road, thou- sands of ties were floated down to Lara- mie, and thence hauled along the line. Tiie supply of timber in this region is as near inexhaustible as can well be im- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 61 agined, where forests do not recover from the cutting. Saw mills will And employmentfor many generations ere they can lay bare these mountains. six and a half miles from Red Buttes is a station for the military post of Fort Sanders, which is situated on the east side of the railroad, close to the track, and in plain view for miles. The buildings are principally of logs, sev- eral of stone and one an ordinary fi'ame — headquarters. This post was established June 23, 1866, by two com- panies of the Third Battalion U. S. In- fantry, under the command of Brevet Lieut.-Coi. H. M. Mizner, Captain 18th Infantry. Latitude 41 deg., 13 min., 4 sec. (observation), longitude 105 deg., 40 min. (approximatej. Two and a half miles farther on we arrive at the end of the "Mountain Di- vision" of the road. Lai-aniie City — the enterprising county seat of Albany county, has wonderfully improved within the last few years. It has a population of 4,000 and IS regularlylaid out at right angles with the road. A stream of clear, cold water, which rises in a spring a few miles to the eastward, runs through the principal streets ; the buildings are small and mostly of wood, with a few substantial structures of stone. The spirit of improvement ia manifested on every hand, which has recently completed numerous stores, hotels, banks, churches, schools, dwellings, and other buildings, including a court house and jail. Trees line many of the streets, and present a cheerful and home-like appearance; in fact, most of the Laramie residents are here to stay. For many years after the com- pletion of the road this was a regular eating station for passenger trains from the East and West. The meals were served in the Thornburg House, at present a flrst-class hotel, in front of which the cars stop. The Sentmel, weekly, and Boomerang, daily, are published here. Rolling Mill— During the year 1874 the railroad company erected a rolling mill at this place, at a cost of $127,500. It is situated to the right of the road, a short distance north of the station, and is in operation night and day, re- rolling old rails and other heavy work. The company's division shops are also located here. They are of stone obtain- ed from Rock Creek, 50 miles north. The round-house contains 20 stalls. The machine shop is used for general repairing, and is first-class in outfit. The railroad was completed to this point June 18, 1868, and for some time Laramie was known as the "end of the track," and during that time it was not only the place from which all freight and supplies for the "West were hauled l»y wagons, but it was the center for all the roughs and abominations Avhich. followed the building of the road. Directly to the east can be seen the- Cheyenne Pass wagon road— the old. emigrant route — which crosses the plain and river h mile above the city, running north along the mouuntains. Laramie was the first place in Amer- ica— or in the world even— where a fe- male j ury was empaneled. Their first case was that of a Western desperado, and there wasno flinchingfrom duty. Curious passengers will note from this city west, the railroad laborers^ section hands— are Chinamen. They are said to be very reliable. Laramie Plains— comprise a belt of fine grazing lands, about 25 miles wide by 60 long, and the remarks about the grazing lands elsewhere will well ap- ply to this section. Beef can be raised and fattened on these plains as cheap- ly as in Texas, where, as every one knows, they raise themselves and form the larger half of the population. The peculiar features of these grasses are similar to those already described. The plains are higher, and frost ap- pears earlier in the fall, but the sum- mer sun cures the grass before its ar- rival, so that the cold weather does not injure it. We need only mention the well-known fact that thousands of buffalo once roamed these plains, fur- nishing the Indians unlimited beef, to convince any one that the laudations of this as a grazing country are not ex- aggerated or Avild ideas, but substan- tiated facts, proved by experience. Stock-raising is now almost the only industry noticeable, and a great many thousand head of cattle, sheep and horses can ba seen in almost any direction. It is computed that there are at this time over 90,000 head of cattle, 85,000 head of sheep, and three thousand horses and mules 62 CROFUTT S NEW OVEKLAJSTD TOURIST wilLiin 40 miles of Laramie, valued at $2,250,000. lu 1807, there couldn't be found in the same section 500 head of all kinds— all told. Agriculture is not profit- able, yet they have demonstrated that some of the hardy vegetables can be cultivated with success ou the bottom lands. Items ok Interest — Crystal Lake is about 40 miles to the westward of Lara- mie. Sheep Mountain — one of the peaks in the Rocky Mountain range — rears its head for 12,000 feet above the sea. Should the tourist desire to visit the place, he will find the road beyond the plains rough, anel the ascent toilsome. Before begin- ning the ascent of the mountains we enter one of the grandest for- sts in the countr}-. For ten miles we toil on through the for- est, which is so dense that the sunlight hardly penetrates, and the silence is almost oppressive. Bears, mountain lions, and the mountain sheep range here; their haunts, until lately, never iiaving been in- vaded by the pale face. Emerging from this gloom into the fair sunlight, we tind ourselves ou the highest point of the moun- tain, from which we can look over piles of fleecy clouds floating below us to other ranges far beyond. I'eak on peak, ridge on ridge, they ascend, until their snow- clad heights are lost in the distance, or in the vast blue dome above. Looking downward, we behold a vast succession ot dark ridges and grey peaks through the rifts in the fog-like vapor floating above them. The^e dark ridges derive their sombre hue from the fores s of pine, which extend for miles and miles in all directions. To the east we see a deep indentation in the mountains, which is Laramie Plains. Across this apparently narrow line, the rugged masses of the Black Hills rise in their grandeur, their black crests closing the scene. Turn now to the immediate landscape. Here is a green, grassy lawn, dotted with tiny flowers, of varieties such as we never before beheld, of ever read of, and right before us, in the center of this lawn, lies a circular lake nearly a mile wide; its clear, soft, cold water glistening in ihe rays of the sun, and reflecting, as in a mirror, every object ou its banks, transformmg them into many fantastic shapes, as the breeze lovingly kisses the silver surface, lifting it into little ripples. The scene is one of unsurpassed loveli- ness immediately around you while the view in the distance is grand, aye, sub- lime — beyond the power of words to de- pict. Whoever visits this place cannot fail of being impressed wiih its wouderous beauty, and his mind will take newer and clearer imjjressions of the power of "Him who hath created all things." The Snowy Range — the great backbone of the continent — is covered with snow for a great part of the season; the highest peaks ever wearing their white robes, even when tlie passes are covered with flowers. This renders them very conspicuous and easily discerned at a great distance. Hence the term " Snowy Range." Characteristics of the Country — In general descriptions we speak of Laramie Plains as including all the country lying between the western base of the Black Hills and the eastern base of the Rocky Mountains — a grand park, similar in for- mation to the great parks of Colorado, though of much less altitude. These " parks " are immense bodies of table lands, enclosed by the peaks and ridges of the sui rounding mountains, shelteied by them from the cold winds, watered by them from the uever-fail.ng streams which flow from gorges and canyons among these jieaks, from which the snow is never absent. The average elevation of the Lar- amie Plains or park is about 6,500 feet, though where Laiamie City stands it is more. The Black Hill ranges of the Rocky Mountains form the ( astern and northein boundary of the "Plains." This range extends nearly due north to Laramie Peak, about 150 mdes, thence west, termiualing in the Seminole Mountains. On the south, the park or plain is bordered by the Rocky Mountains, which here reach an elevation of from 10,000 to 13,000 leet above the sea — snow-capped always. To the altitude of from 8,000 to 9,000 feet, these slopes are covered with dense pine forests. In the mountains to the westward, in North Park, Douglass, and other creeks, rich mines of gold, silver, copper, and nearly all the known metals have l)een dis- covered, and in several cases, wcj'ked to ad- vantage. The Keystone is reported to be a very rich mine, the owners of which are taking out the ore and piling it up, to await the arrival of a stamp mill which will be put up in a few months. Undoubtedly there are vast regions tributary to Laramie equally well-stored with mineral deposits, that have never been prospected or visited by the while men. On the northwest from out the Elk PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 63 Monutaius, juts the Rattlesnake Range, ex- tending north to the North Platte, carrying an elevation of nearly 8,000 feet. Through the western range, the North Platte canyons, and. on the east, the Medi- cine Bow River cuts through the eastern range, seitarating it from the foot-hills of the northerly range of the Black Hills. Through the plains flow the Big and Little Laramie Rivers, which, as we before stated, rise in the mountains which border the western rim of the plains. These streams canyon through the Black Hills north of Laramie Peak, antl enter the North Platte near Fort Laramie. Rock Creek rises east of Medicine Bow, and after tiowing north to about latitude 42 degs. flows west and empties into the Medicine Bow. This river rises in Medi- cine Bow Mountains, and flows north to about the same latitude as Rock Creek, thence west, and canyons through the Rat- tlesnake range of hills, entering the North Platte about 150 miles nortliwest of Lara- mie City, in latitude 42 deg. 3min. By this showing it will be ob?erved that the immense pa k, or Laramie Plains, is well watered — sufflcienily f >r grazing and irrigation. We have been more explicit, have dwelt longer on the e points than we should have done, did we not feel a desire to show to the emigrant, or to those who are seeking good locations for grazing lands, that the Laramie Plains possess these advantages in an eminent degree. We have wandered far away trom the plains in our descriptions, but the grazing lands end not with the plains. The moun- tain sides, until the timber belt is reached, the valleys, blulis, and foot-hills, all pre sent the same feature in point of luxuriant crops of gras-. The valleys of the streams mentioned also contain thousands of acres of meadow land, where hay can be cut in abundance, and, if the season will permit, wheat, barley and lye might be grown to advantage, the soil being a black loam, and sufficiently moist to insure good crops without irrigation. Fish and Game — Trout — the finest in the world — can be found in every moun- tain stretim, while every variety of game ranges over the mountains, hills valleys and plains in countless numbers. With these general remarks, we will re- turn to Laramie, and proceed on our jour- ney. Soon after leaving the city, we cross the Laramie River, and eight miles brings us to Howell's — an unimportant station, where passenger trains seldom stop. Ii is then 7 G-lO miles to Wyoming — on the Little Laramie River. During the building of the road large quantities of ties were received at this point, which were cut at the head of the river and floated down the stream in high water. The country is a liroad prai- rie. At tlie station we crossed Little Lara- mie, a small stream which rises in the mountains to the westward and empties into Laramie River. To the next sta- tion — Huttoii's— it is 6.9 miles, and 6.6 more to Cooper Lake -Near the station, to the westward, lies a beautiful sheet of wa- ter, about two mihs long by half-a-mile wide, for which the station is named. liOOkont — a station with an altitude of 7,109 feet — is5 4-'0 miles from Cooper Lake. AYe are now entering the rolling prairie country, where, for 25 miles either way along the road, vast herds of elk, deer and antelope are found at ditfereut seasons of the year — the elk being mostly found in the winter, when the snow drives them from the mountains. ^Ve also begin to find o'^casional bunches of sage-brusii, which tell us that we have entered the country where this more useful than orna- mental shrub abounds. (Occasionally we pass through cuts and over low fills, by snow^-feuces, and through snow-sheds, the countrj'' growing rougher as we pass along 5.7 miles to Harper's — from which it is 6.3 miles to Miser Station— Sage-brush is the rule. Just before reaching the station, wo pass through a very deep cut— one of the deepest on the road — where a iit- t/le spur of the bluffs rises abruptly from the plains, right in the Avay of the road. Just before reaching the next station, we cross Rock Creek, towards the head of which is good trout fish- ing. It is 5 1-10 miles to Koek Creek— a small eating sta- tion, on a small creek of the same name. Trains from the east sto]^ for supper, from the west for breakfast, 30 minutes The English language iswouderful for its apt- ness of expression. When a number of men and women get together and look at each other from the sides of a room, that's called a sociable. When a hungry crowd calls upon a poor station keeper and eats him out of house and home, that's called a donation parly. 64 CKOFUTT'S XEW OVERLAXD TOURIST are allowed foi* that purpose; and, it is said, the meals served are much improved on those of former years. All travelers appreciate good fare. Leaving the station, our course now lies to the eastward ; the train winds around the spurs of the hkiffs, which seem to har otir way by inteilocking with each other, on Ihrotigh a rough, rolling country, again turning to the westward, over briuges and fills, through cuts and snow-sheds, for 7 1-10 miles to "Wilcox — an unimportant station, and we continue crossing creeks and ravines for 8 4-10 miles more, of difficult engineer- ing and middling heavy road-work, and arrive at i4.nror» — formerly Como, a small place. Soon after passing the station wc come to Como Lake, a bcautitul little sheet of water, lyiug to the right of the road, it is about one mile long and half- a-mile wide, and contains a peculiar fish, a " fish witii legs." These fish animals possess gills something hke a cat-fish; are amphibious, being often found crawling clumsily around on land, miles from the lake. Quite a variety of peculiar fossd shells are found around the lake that are gathered in summer by persons who ofler them tor sale to the touritts- Medicine Bow Rivek — is crossed a ftw miles after leaving Como. It rs* in the Medicine Bow Mountains, as before stated, and empties its waters into the North Platte River. This river was long a noted resort for Indians, and several treaties have been made on its banks between the ^^ noble red men " and their pale-faced '" brothers." The valley of the river, above the railroad, for thirty miles or more, is broad, fine bot- tom-laud, until it reaches the base of the mountain From thence to its source the cotirse of the river is through immense forests of pine, wdi'ch present unrivaled facilities for lumbering. Fish are found in great quantities in the stream, and the various kintls of game which abound in this country are found in the mountains where the river has its source. Soon after crossing tlie river, and 7 1-10 miles from Como, we come to Medicine Bow— containing several stores, and saloons, freight house, passen- ger station, and a five-stall round-house. Leaving this station, the road is laid over a smootn, level plain, for 7.5 miles, when it enters a rough, hilly, sage-bruali coimtry, and stops at JVilew Junction— from which the train, winding arotind through deep cuts and long snow-sheds, for 3 2-10 miles further, to Carbon— Here was discovered the first coal on the Union Pacific Ry. Two veins have been apened, averaging abo tit ten feet. Thiscoalis used prin- cipally by theRy. Co, for their locomo- tives—the quality not being so good for domestic use as that niined further west, at Rock Springs and Evanston. The coal is raised from the mine and dumped into the fiat-cars, while standing on the track — the shaft of the mine being between the main and side track, close to the station; a stationary engine fui'nish- ing the hoisting power. Another shaft is to the south of the town, a short distance, reached by a raillrack. Carbon contains a population of about 800, aud is the county seat of Carbon coun- t}', which contains a population of about :j,000 — most of whom are engaged in stock- raising. l!$ini|)SOn — a small, unimportant side- track, is reached r..S miles fromCarbon, after passing through a succession of cuts, many of which are covered w.th suow- sheds. Passenger cars do not stop. The road now curves around, and runs almost due west for 50 miles. To the next sta- tion it is 4.5 10 miles. Percy — The station was named for Percy T. Brown, an engineer who was killed by the Indians, while employed sur- veying the line. During the construction of the road, this was an important station. Ties, tele- graph poles, wood and bridge timber, were Tanded at this point in immense quantities. They were obtained at Elk Mountain, seven miles to the south. The old stage road winds around the base of the moun- tain, between that and the railroad. Near the loot of the mountain, old Fort Halleck and one of the most important stations of the Overland Stage Company, were located ; both are now abandoned. Elk Mount.\in — is a noted, landmark, and quite a curiosity in its way. It rises to a great height, its top being covered with snow a "great portion of the year, and at any time snow can be found in places on the summit. It has the appear- ance of being an isolated peak, though, really, it is the extreme northern spur of the Medicine Bow Mountains. It is, how- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 65 SEALS AND SEA LIONS AT FARALLOXES ISLANDS, BELOW SAN FRANCISCO. ever, surrounded by rf)lling prairie laud, and seems to rise boldly Irom it, rough, rugged and alone. On the west side, the summit is easily reached by a good road, made by the lumbermen. The mountain is nearlj' round, about six miles in diame- ter at its base. Its sides are covered with dense forests of pine, aspen and hemlock. It is worthy of note, that this is the only point where the Jatter species of timbei- is found along the line of the road. It grows in profusion with the spruce in the gorges, m ar the summit. To the soulh is a fine valley, about 15 miles w ide and 20 miles long. Pass Creek, which rises in the Medicine Bow Moun- tains, runs through this valley on its ■way to tlie North Platt3 River. Large 5 quantities of hay are cut in the bottom lands along the creek. This stream, like all others which rise in this range, is full of fine trout and other fish. Antelope abound on the plain, with elk, deer, bears and mountain sheep, while mountain lions find their homes in the dark ravines and gloomy gorges of the mountain. l>aiia — is an unimportant station 6 1-10 miles west of Percy. From Percy to the North Platte River, 29 miles, the road is built down the vallej^ of an alkali ravine. Sage-brush and stagnant pools of alkali water are the only objects that greet the eye — perhaps an unpleasant greeting, l^esert — is 6-10 miles from Wiish-a-kie. The country around here is called the Red Desert, from the color of the barren soil. It is a liuge basin, its waters having no outlet. Several alkali lakes are found in it, but nothing lives on its surface. The soil is bad between Table Rock and Creston, the extreme points of the desert, 38 miles apart. It is composed of the de- composition of shale and calcareous clays, and is deep red, sliowing the presence of an hydrous sesquioxide of iron. The soutliern margin of the basin is mainly sand, which is lifted up by every passing breeze to fall in drifts and shifting mounds. Tipton — a side-lrack, where our train does not f-top, is (il-lO miles west of Red Deseit, and 61-10 miles further, the train wiLl stop at Talile Rock. — This station is on the outer edge of the desert, which has an ele- vation of 6,890 feet. Off to the left can be seen a long line of bluffs, rising from 50 to 500 feet above the surrounding coun- try. They are of red sandstone, which is mainly com])osed of freshwater shells, worn, cut, and fluted by the action of tin; elements. Oue of these bluffs, wdiich gives its name to the station, is level on the top, which rises about 500 feet above the road, and extends for several miles. Heavy cuts and tills are ibund here, show- ing that the road is passing through the rim of the desert. After passing through this rim, and by the sidetrack, called Monell — we go on, through a rough and broken cnuntry for ten miles, when we aiTive at a station called Bittei* Creek— At this place the company have a ten-stall round-house, and a machine shop, for repairs. As we leave this station, we begin the descent of the celebrated Bitter Creek, the valley of which we shall follow to Green River, about 60 miles west. The valley is narrow, the bluffs coming near the creek on either side. The stream ia small and so strongly impregnated with alkali as to be almost useless for man or beast. The banks and bottoms are very treacherous in places, miring any cattle which attempt to reach its fetid waters. This section was always a terror to travel- ers, emigrants and freighters, for nothing in the line of vegetation will grow, ex- cepting grease-wood and sage-bru^h. The freighter, especially, who had safely navi- gated this section, would "ring his pop- per " and claim that he was a "tough cuss on wheels, from Bi'ter Creek with a per- ftct education." From the source to the mouth of this stream, every indication points to the fact that deposits of oil underlie the surface. Coal veins — -valuable ones— -have been found, and an oil-l)earing shale underlies a large portion of the valley. The old over- laud stage and emigrant road follows this valley from its source to Green River. From the bluffs, spurs reach out as though they would like to meet their jagged friends on the opposite bluffs: and around the rough points the cars roll merrily on down, down to the Green. Black Bntles — is 9 1-10 miles down the creek. Hallvllle — an unimportant station to the tourist, is 5.1 miles from the But'es, and 6 2-10 miles to Point of Rocks— Here an artesian well, 1,015 feet in depth, supplies an abun- dance of pure water. Extensive coal mines near this station are being worked l)y the Wyoming Coal Company, who ship as high as lUO car- loads daily. In oue bluff, at a depth of 80 feet, five veins of coal have been opened — one upon the other — which are respectively one, tliree, four, five, and six and a half feet in tliickuess. On the bluff, just above the coal, is a seam of oyster-shells six inches in thickness, which Ilayden says "is an ex- tinct and uudescribcd species, about the size of our common edible one." The sandstone bluffs, at points along the road, are worn by the action of the elements into curious, fantastic shapes, some of which have been named " Caves of the Sand," " Hermit's Grotto," "Water-washed Caves of the Fairies," "Sanko's Bower," AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 71 &c. Prof. Hayden, iu his geological ex- amination of this section of , the creek, re- ported finding "preser^'ed in the rocks the greatest abundance of deciduous leaves of the poplar, ash, elm and maple." He says further: "Among the plants found is a specimen of fau-pahn, which, at the tin)e it grew here, displayed a leaf of enormous dimensions, sometimes having a spread of ten or twelve feet. Tliese gigantic palms seem to have formed a conspicuous feature among the trees of these ancient forests." Several sulphur and iron springs are lo- cated near, but little attention has been di- rected to their special virtues. Thayer — a small side-track, .5 3-10 miles further west, is passed without stop- ping, and (i 2-10 miles more we ai'rive at Salt "%Vells— This, until coal was dis- covered in quantities on the creek, Avas a wood station. The wood was obtained from five to ten miles south, in the gulches, where also could be found game iu abund- ance — elk, deer, bears, etc. Baxter — is G 7-10 miles from the Wells, and 6 8-10 from Rock JSpriiigs — This station was named alter a saline spring of water which bpils up out of the blutls, looking very clear and nice, but it is very deceiving — an un- common thing in this truthful world. An artesian well has been sunk at this station, 1,145 I'ect deep. The water tlows to the surhice at the rate of 900 gallons per hour, and at 2C> feet above the surface, flows 571 gallons per hour. The popu- lation of this ])lace is 500, mostly engage d in mining and stock raising. Near heie are more rich coal mines. From this point to Green River, the scenery becomes more grand and im- pressive, the blufts rising higher and the gorge narrowing, until the hills seem to hang over the narrow valley with their frown ing bai tlements. Through this gorge we rattle on nine miles to WilKiiiw — a small station six miles from the end Laramie Division. STARVATION CAMP, DONNER LAKE — SEE ANNEX NO. 33. 72 ('uofutt's new oveeland TourasT Green River— is the county seat of Sweetwater couuiy, 845 miles west of Omaha, the end of the Laramie and the commencement of the AVestern Division |of the Union Pacific Railway. The place is a regular eating station, where passenger trains stop 'SO minutes— tlinse from the East for breakfast, those from the West tor supper. jNIuch taste is di splayed at this station in decorating the dining room and office with mountain cu- riosities, mineral specimens, moss -agate and horns of game. The city has a good court-house— costing $35,000 ; several dry goods, grocery, cloth- ing and other stores; two hotels, and about 400 population ; also, a daily newspaper, the Evening Fress. The Railroad Com- jiany has a round-house of 15 stalls, and machine shops and repair shops, located liere, which in the early years of the road, ware at Bryan. It is claimed that the surrounding coun- try is rich in mines, but one thing is cer- tain — it is rich in cattle; it has cattle on more than a " thousand hills." The bluffs near this station present a peculiar formation called, by Prof. Hay- den, the " Green River Shales." For a beautiful illustration of the bluffs, the sta- tion and the bridge, see Anjstex No. 16. The walls of these bluffs rise perpendic- ularly for hundreds of feet, are of a grayish buff color, and are composed of layers, ap- parently sedimentary deposits of all thick- nesses, from that of a knife-blade to two feet. At the ba e of the bluff tlie layers are thin and composed of arenaceous clay, with laminated sandstone, mud markings and other indications of shallow water or mud fiats ; color for 100 feet, ashen brown ; next above are lighter colored layers, al- ternate with 2;reenish layers, and fine INTERIOR VIEW OF SXOW^ SHEDS OX THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS. a:n^d tacific coast guide. 73 CROSSING IRL'CKEE RIVER, C. V. R. R. W'liite sand. Passing up, chiy and lime predominate, tlieu come layers of bould- ers, pebbles, and small nodules. There are also seams of very fine black limestone, saturated with petroleum. Near the summit, under the shallow, calcareous sandstone, there are over fifty feet of shales that contain more or less of oily material. The hills all around are capped with a deep, rustj' yellow s-mdstone, which pi'c- sentsthe peculiar ca.stellated forms which, Avith the banded appeai'ance, have given so much celebrity to the scenery about this station. The point where our photog-rapher stood to take the picture, was About one- half mile below the bridge and immedi- ately opposite the mouth of _ the noted Bitter Creek, down which, in years past, rolled the Avagous of the pioneer -emigrants of the fai' West, on their Aveary way seeking new El Dorarioes towards "the set- ting sun. Old Toavx— a short distance Irom the station io the soutliward is the site of the old deserted citA' of Gi\en liiver, near the old emigrant crossing, and thereby hangs a tale. This city was laid out in- July. 1868, and the September following con- tained 2,000 inhabitants, and many sub- stantial wood and adobe building's, and presented a permanent appearance. At that time it Avas thought by the citizers that the Railroad Company would certainly erect tlieii division buildings near the town, and it Avouid become an important station in consequence. But the Railroad Com- pany ojiposed the Town Company, bridged the river, and as the road stretched away to the Ave tAvard, the tOAvn declined as rap- idly as it arose, the people moving on to Bryan, at which place the Railroad Com- pany located their city — and sold lots. Geographical indications fro}7i the first pointed to the fact that the Jlailroad Com- pany must CA-entually select tliis place in 74 CROFUTT S >E\V' OVEKLAXD TOUUIST preference to Bryan, which is now an ac- complished fact. Twenty Yeaks Ago aa important trading post was 1 )cated near this station just below, on tlie opposite side of the river. In early days, I he 3Iormous had a ferryr here, and a; the river was seldom fordable — except late in the fall— they reaped a rich harvest of from $5 to i|30 a team for crossing them over the river, ac- cording as the owners were found aljle to pay. Those times were comparatively only yesterday, and we might say with the juggler ^' Presto ! " and we have the " iron horse," and the long trains of magnificent palace cars, crossing the substantial rail- road bridge, conveying their hundreds of passengers daily — passengers from every laud and clime — and whirling them across the continent from ocean t ) ocean, on schedule time. Do these passengers, while partaking of a princely meal, lying at ease sipping their wine, {ov po s bly ice water,) and smoking quietly their cigar, ever think of the hardy pioneers who toiled along on foot and alone, man}- times over semji montlis traveling the ?ame distance that can now bemads iwfici days ? Thes pioneers suffered ever}/ kind of hardship, many even unto death, and those tiiat re- main are fast ]iassing away. Yet, the fruits of their adventurous and daring in- trepidity can be seen on every hand. Green Rivek — Tliis stream rises in the northwest portion of the Wind River Mountains, at the base of Fremont's i^cak. The source of the river is found in innu- merable little streams, about 200 miles fr.)m the railroad crossing. About 150 miles below tlie sta'ion the river empties into the Cok)rado River. The name "Green River" implies the color of the water, but one would hardly expect to be- hold a large, rapid river, whose wa; rs possess so deep a hue. The river, for some distance up th: stream, commencing about fifty miles above th ^ station, runs through a soil composed of decomposed rock, slate, etc , which is ven, green, and easily washed and worn away, whicli accounts for the color of the water. At all seasons of the year the water is very good — the best, by far, of any found in this part of the country. The tributaries abound in trout of line llavor, ;,nd the main river is well stocked with the tinny tribe. Game of all kinds abound along the river and in the atljacent mountains. Fontenelle Creek comes into Green River 40 miles north, and is spccui li/ noted for game, trout, etc. The lower stream presents a very marked feature, aside from the high bluHs of worn sandstone be.-ides stdimentary deposits. These features are strongly marked, above the bridge, for several miles. From Green River station, the first ex- ploring expedition of INlaj. Powell started on the 24th < f May, 1S09. The party con- sisted of about a doz _".7 well-armed, intrepid men, mostly Westenx luinters. They had four well-built boa's,, v.'Uh whioh to explore the mysterious sud terrible canyons of Green River and the Colorado. These gorges Avere conijuralively unknown, the abrupt mouutaiji walls having turned the travel far from tlieir sterile shores. Sci- ence and comm !rce demanded a solution of the (luestion: ' Can tlie upper Colorado be navigated?" and Mmj. Powell under- took to solve the prob'em. The party en'ountered hardships, dis- covered beautilUi scenery, and in their re- port have thrown much "light on the mys- teries of this herc'iofore not much traveled country. The result of the expedition af- forded the Major tne ma'erials for a course oflectures, and demonstrated the impor- tant fact that the Colorado canyon is not navigable. We hear that the Major has, since the al)(n-e, made an expedition to the river, but are not informed as to tlie results. A Avagon road leads north, up the east side of the river, over which a stage runs regularly to the SwEETWATEii CouNTKY — The ]irincipal cities are South Pass, Atlantic and Hamil- ton. They are situated four miles apart. The principal occupation of the citizens is quartz gold mining. Many of the mines ae said to be very rich, but for some re a- sou very unprofitable to w( rk. The prin- cipal mines are on Swectw iter River, a trib- utary of Wind River, which passes through very rich mineral and agricultural coun- try- Wind River is a tributary of the Big Horn River, which empties into the Yel- lowstone. The streams abound in fish, in- cluding trout of excellent llavor. The valleys and mountains furnish game in abundance, including deer, elk, antelope, mountain sheep, buftalo, cinnamon, brown, blac'5 and grizzly bears. Indian difficulties have retarded min- ing, agricultural, and business operations very much in the past. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 75 BURNING ROCK CUI,NEAR GREEN RIVER. to Bryan, Septem- ber, 1808, and large amounts of freight was deli VI red here to be re-shipped to the westward. From this station to the north- ward, it is 80 miles to the Pacific Springs on the old " California trail," and 90 miles to Sweetwater. At one time stages left this station for the Sweetwater country, but they have been transferred to Green IJiver station. Freight for the Government posts, and country to- Ihe northward, Atlan- tic City, South Pass, ccc, is hauled from this station by wagon teams as of old. Bryan, during its early days, was quite lively, and troubled with the usual number Leaving the station, we cross Green River on a fine bridge, the cars passing along through heavy cuts, almost over the river in places, affording a line view of the frown- ing clifts on the east side of the river. Twenty miles to the northwest a large bar- ren butte, pilot-knob, stands in isolated loneliness. Soon we turn to the left, leav- ing the river, and pass JPeru — in 8 miles —and in live miles more, arrive at Bryan— a desert- ed old station. The counlry around is bar- run, composed of red siud, and uninviting in tue extreme. We are again increasing our elevation. The road was completed DEVIL'S GATE, WEBER CANYON, U. P R. R. 7G CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST of roughs, gamblers aud desperadoes. Wlieu the Vigihiuce Committee was iu session here, in 1868, they wa ted on a noted desperado, aud gave him 15 miuutes to leave town. He mounted his mule aud said: ''Gentlemen, if this d — m mule don't buck, I don't want but five." "We com- mend his judgment, and consider that for once '■" Ids head was levels Black's Fork is approached at this station. It rises iu the Uintah Mountains, about 100 miles to tlie southwest, and emp- ties into Green River, below Green Rivtr City. The bottom lands of this river, for fifty miles above Bryan, are susceptible of irrigation, and are I'hought to be capable of raising small grains. Mar^toil — is an unimportant station, 7.6 miles from Bryan. Soon after passing the station, to the northward, the old Mor- mon trail from Johusou's Ford on Green Kiver, 1 .' miles above Green River station, can be seen coming down a ravine. The route is marked f n some distance by a line of telegraph poles which leads to Sweetwater. Soon after leaving this station, a fine view can be had to the left, south, of the Uintah range of mountains. The valley of the Beaver lays at the northern base of the range, and is one of the most produc- tive sections or theteri-itory ; corn, potatoes, vegetables, and small grain grow and yield abundantly. Beaver Creek, Avliich iiows through the valley, was named for the beavers that inhabit the creek. As early as 1825, Beaver Creek was Iviiown to Bridger and other trappers of the American Fur Co; in after years, it became the headquarters — for years at a time — of Jim Bridger aud other trappers Since trapping beaver has been aban- doned the increase iu Beaver Creek has been wonderful. Immense dams are here to be seen, from fou:- to six feet high, which tlood many thousand acres. The streams of this section not only abound in beaver, but iu fish — the trout here being abundant. Beyond the Uintah Range is the Great Yalleyof White Earth River, where is lo-. cated the Ut ; Reservation. lir ranger — is 9.6 miles west of IMarsion. The last seven and a half miles of track liefore reacliing this station was laid down by Jack Caseman in one day. Tlie station is named for an old set, tier, ]VIr. Granger, who keeps a ranclie xiear by. ham's Fork — which we cross near the station— rises abotit forty miles to the northwest, in Hodge's Pass. The bottom lands of this stream are very protluctive of s'f'i-ss; the upper por- tion of the valleys, near the moun- tains, produce e-xcellent hay-crops. Up this "Fork" is building- the 4>regoji Shorl I^iiaie. — broad sauge — a branch of the Union Pacific. The first survey Avas made in 187G, but active work of building only commenced in ISSl. The road had, at the close of theyear, 150 miles of steel rails laid, and its constriiction'is push- eel vigorously. The line pierces the Uintah range by a long tunnel, pene- trates a region aboundingin coal, and in close proximity to the celebrated soda springs of Idaho, and connects with the Utah & Northern branch at Pocotello, 15G miles north from Ogden, Utah. Working parties are now en- gaged on the line as far west as Boise City, and on a line branching off to the westward of Blackfoot, for Salina, in the Wood River country. After crossing the bridge we leave Black's Fork and the old stage road, which bears away to the left, to Fort Bridger, while our course is due west, xtp the Big Muddy, which we cross and recross repeatedly before reaching Piedmont, 50 miles distant. The valley of the stream is narrow, producing only sage- and grease-wood. I'luu'flilStittos— is situated on Big Muddycreek, j ust east of the crossing. The station is 10.5 miles from Gran- ger's, a noted place for moss agates. These beautiful stones are found along the line of the road from Green River to Pied mont ; in some places the ground is literally paved with these gems, varying in size from a pea to about f^ve inches in diameter. The outside is a darlv gray and a greenish blue in spots. Should the reader con- clude to stop over and hunt moss ag- ates, our advise would be: take your time and a hammer Avith you, crack the rocks and pebbles beneath your feet; and Avhen you find one of the agates, if it looks dull and rusty, do not throw it away in hopes of finding a prettier one, for often the dull-looking stone, when cut and dressed, is very beauti- ful and valuable; but most of the agates are valueless. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 77 Church Buttes station derives its name from the peculiar formation of the sand - stone bluffs, wliich extend for many miles on the left-hand side of the road ; they are about ten miles distant. At the Old Church Buttes station, on the old over- land stage road," — about nine miles to the south they rise in lofty domes and pinnacles, which, at a distance, resemble the flut- ed columns of some cath- edral of the olden time, standing in the midst of desolation; its lofty tur- retcd roof and towering spires rising far above the surrounding country ; . but on nearer approach the scene changes, and we find a huge mass of sandstone, Avorn and washeil by the elements until it has assumed the outline of a church of the grandest dimensinns, it being visible for a great distanc '. Again we go westward 6. 9 miles to Hampton — a side track, with cattle pens and suite for loading them — large herds of which range in this section, on the hills and in the adjacent valleys. To the left, aft r leaving the station, we see high buttes of all fantastic shapes, showing water lines, w'hich indicate that there has been "high wa'er" here some time in the past. (carter — is 10 miles from the last station. About seven miles north, a large sulphur spring, and near it a calybeta spring has been discovered, and about fourteen miles farther a mountain of coal ; the total thickness of the veins is 87 feet, traceable for twelve miles. A branch rail- road is contemplated to the coal bank, via the springs. This station is named for Judge Carter, of Bridger. This frcntlemau has a large ware- house at this point, where freight until re- cently, was received and shipped to Vir- ginia City, Helena, and Bannock City, Montana Territory. This route was the shortest wagon route from the East, until the buildiug of the Utah and Northern. JAMES BRIDOER — Sae following pags. The series of buttes that has been ob- .served on our left below, continues, but are more of a uniform height — table-topped, with scrub cedars in the gulches and ravines. Some of these buttes look like immeuse railroad dumps, as they jet out into the valley, round and steep. On the right, the soil is red-clay, watl) some rocks of the same color. Fort Bkidoeii — is ten miles east from this station, over the bluffs, out of sight, having been established in 1858, by General A. S. Johnson, latitude 41 deg. 18 miu. and 12 sec; longitude 110 deg. 32 min. and 38 sec. Black's Fork, which runs through the center of the parade ground, afibrds ex- cellent water, and with Smith's Fork, a stream five miles southeast, affords as fine trout as there is in the country. The "good, old-fashioued way" of imparting knowledge to dull pupils — By rule, paddling it in thi-ougli the pores of the skin. "Cayotes" are a small species of wolf. "Jack rabbits" are of the hare family. Infantry soldiers are called, by the Indians, "heap walk raen. " 78 CUOFUTT S >'EAV OVEIILANI) TOURIST This post was named after J>_mes Bridger, the reuouned hunter, trapper and guide, who lived in this country nearly half a century. (See portrait page 77.) "Jim" Bridger is imdoubtedly the most noted of all the old plains men, and early pioneers in our far western countiy. Through the courtesy of W. A. Carter,_of Fort Bridger, we liave been furnished with a fine picture of Mr. Bridger, rnd a short sketch of his eventful life — from which we condense : '■Jim" was born in Richmond, Virginia — sometime about the last of the last cen- tury—and while he was very small, his parents emigr;itcd to St. Louis, Mo., where, shortly after their arrival, they both diet of an epidemic then prevailing in that city. Having no one to look to or care for him, he engaged to accompany a par y of trappers who were then fitting out for a trip to the Rocky Mountains. Entirely devoid of even the commonestru- diments of education, lie crossed the then almost wholly unknown and trackless plains, and plunged into the pathless mountains. Greatly attracted by the novelty of the sport, at that time quite profitable, he entered eagerly upon the business of trading in fur. Being naturally shrewd, and possessing a keen faculty of observation, he carefully studied the habits of the beaver, and profiting by the knowledge obtained from the Indians — witli whom he chiefly associated, and with whom he became a ^reat favorite — he soon became one of the most expert trapi^ers and hunters in the mountains. Eager to satisfy his curiosity, a natural fondness for mountain scmery, and a rov- ing disposition, he traversed the country in every direction, sometimes in company with Indians, but oftener alone; he famil- iarized himself with every mountain peak, every gorge, every hill, and every land- mark in the country. He pursued his trap- ping expeditious north to the British Pos- sessions, south to Mexico, and west to the Pacific Ocean. In this way be became acquainted with all the tribes of Indians in the countiy, and by long intercourse vv^ith them, learned their language and became familiar with all their signs. He adopted their habits, conformed to their customs, became imbued with all their superstitions, and at length excelled them in strategy. The marvelous stories told by Bridger are numerous, but we have not the space for a -"specimen." In after years, when it be- came necessary to send millitary expedi- tious ihrough the far western country, the Government employed Bridger as a guide, and his experience was turned to good ac- count as an interpreter of Indian languaees. Mr. Bridger died in 187o, near Kansas City, ]Mo., having outlived the sphere of liis usefulness, there being no longer any port on of the West unexplored, and hav- ing reached the period of second childhood. As this post is one of great historic in- terest, we publish, in our Annex No. 17. Memories of Eort Bridger. 'I'o the next station it is 'J.5 miles, aud is named after that old hunter and trapper, Iti'idtsei* — and it is as unpretentious as the original. Scrub cedar in tue high rocky bin lis, sage-brush, red sandstone and red clay, with bunch-grass for sandwiching, is the make-up of the surrounding country. It is inhabited by a few wood-choppers, some stock men,, with herds of cattle and sheep, a fuw deer, antelope, coyotes and jack rabbits by the thousands. For agricul- tural purposes, it is in a high state of deso- lation. For the next three stations we shall ascend rapidly. Theblufls are nearer, and we cross and re-cross the " Muddy " very often, the little stream being nearly as crooked as the streets in Bostou. A few miles beyond, on the left, is a towering cliff, which comes to a point, near the road, on the side of which are some notable water-lines. This clill" is about 500 feet in height, and where it comes to a point is pulpit-shaped, and is known as Pluto's Outlook. A little further smith is his 3Iajesty's Stone-Yard, to which the railroad company, j^ears ago, laid a track for the purpose of using the flat stone which lay around scattered all over the "yard," but here a difficulty seems to have arisen. The masons re- ported that the stone was " bedeviled," and would, not lay still ; when the stone was laid flat in their work, the next morning they would be found on the edge; when laid on the edge and left alone for a few moments, they were found flat- ways. This state of things so alarmed the masons that they abandoned their work and the country, and it is not known what has become of them. Lieroy — a side-track, is five miles from Bridger. Near here the old overland road comes down the mountains, crossing the railroad to the west, at Burns' old ranche, the route marked by the line of telegraph AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 79 poles. Three miles west, on this stage road, are the soda springs Piedmont — is ten miles from Le- roy; there are a few dozen buildings in sight. The principal business iu which the people are engaged is the burning of charcoal for shipment to smelting fur- naces in Salt Lake Valley. There are live patent kilns close to the left of the road, the wood being hauled from the Uintah Mountains to the southward, from 15 to 20 miles distant. Leaving the station, look ahead from the left side, at the track and snow-sheds. The grade is very heavy, the country is rough and broken, and the road is very crooked, al- most doubling back on itself in places. The track is laid over many long and high trestle bridges, all of which have been filled in with dirt, within the last six years. Before reaching the next station, our train will pass through five long snow- sheds. The small houses near the sheds are the habitations of tlie watchmen who have them in charge. These sheds are built very tight to prevent fine snow from sifting through, which causes them to be quite dark. From Piedmont, it is 9.4 miles to Aspen— a side-track. Lumber piles and Wciter-tauk make up the place. This station is next in height to Sherman, on the line of the Union Pacific. Elevation, 7,835 feet ; is 977 miles from San Francisco, and 937 from Omaha, situated oo tlie low- est pass over the Uintah Mountains. The station derives its name from the high mountain to the north, called "Quak- ing Asp." The summit of this mountain is covered with snow during most ot the year. The " quaking asp," or aspen, a species of poplar, grows in profusion iu the gulches and on the sides of the moun- tain. The old overland stage road winds around the northern base, while the railroad girds its southern borders, nearly encircling it between the old and new; de- cay and death marking the one, life, energy and growing strength, the other. •Leaving Aspen, the grade is downward to Salt Lake Valley. After rolling through two long snow-sheds and five miles of road, we are at Hilliard — population 400. At this station business can be felt in the air. A "V " flume crosses the railroad track— 20 feet above it— in which immense quanti- ties of lumber, ties, telegraph poles, cord- wood, etc., are floated down from the pine- ries of the Uintah Mountains, from 20 to 30 miles distant, south. Just to the right of the station are located rows of the J. C. Cameron bee-hive kilns, for burn- ing charcoal. There are about 30 of them, of two difterent sizes, some with a capacity for 20 and some 40 cords of wood. Tliese kilns can each be filled and burned three times a month, and from 20 cords of wood 1,000 bushels of charcoal is pro- duced. This coal is mostly shipped to smelting furnaces, to the westward — Salt Lake City, Virginia City, Eureka, San Francisco, etc. One smelting furnace was erected here — at the coal — during the year 1877. Sulphur springs are located opposite the station, to the north and south, from 10 to 25 miles distant, but (hei/ are getting too common to require a description ; "and then, owing to late teachings, they pos- sess little interest to our readers. Two miles irom Hilliard, to the right of the road, we come to the site of old Bear River City, of early railroad days, but now entirely deserted. It is situated in a little valley at the mouth of a ravine, where the old overland stage road comes down from the north of Quaking Asp Mountain. At one time this place was quite populous, and was supposed likely to become a permanent town. At this point the roughs and gamblers, who had been driven from point to point westward, made a stand, congregating in large num- bers. They swore "that they would be driven no further ; that here they would stay, and tight it out to the bitter end. The town contained about 1,000 law-abid- ing people, and when the roughs felt that trouble was coming on them, they with- drew to the hills and organized for a raid on the town. Meanwhile some of the roughs remained in the town, and among them were three noted garroters, who had added to their long list of crimes that of miu'der. The citizens arose, seized and hung them. In this act they were sus- tained l>y all law-abiding people, also by the Index, a paper which had followed the road, but was then published here. This hastened the conflict, and on the 19th of November, 18G8, the roughs attacked the town in force. This attack was repulsed by the citizens, though not until the Bear River riot had cost sixteen lives, including th at of one citizen. The mob first attacked and burned the jail, taking thence one of their kind who was confined there. They "80 CKOFUTT 8 NEW OVERLAND TOUKIST next sacked the office and destroyed the ma- terial of the Frontier Index, which was sit- uated in a building close to tlie railroad, on the south side. Elated with their success, the mob, numbering about 300 well-armecl desperadoes, marched over to the north side, up the main st?"eet, and made an attack on a store belonging to one of the leading mer- chants. Here they were met with a vol- ley from Henry rifles, in the hands of brave and determined citizens, who had collected in the store. The mob was thrown into confusion, and fled down the street, pursued by the citizens, about thirty in number. The first volley and the run- ning fight left fifteen of the desperadoes dead on the street. The number of wounded was never ascertained, but sev- eral bodies were afterwards found in the gulches and among the rocks, where they had crawled away and died. One citizen was slain in the attack on the jail. From this time the roughs abandoned the city. The town declined as soon as the road was built past it, and now there is nothing left to mark the place, except a few old chimneys, broken bottles and scattered oyster cans. Passing on, the blufls are higli and broken, coming close to the road, leaving buta narrow valley, until we reach ]flillis — a side-track, four miles from Hilliard. Soon after passing Mill is, we come to the valley of Bear River, down which we run for two miles and cross that river on a trestle bridge, 600 feet in length. Bear Riveu — This stream rises about sixty miles to the south in the Uintah and Wasatch Mountains. It has many tribu- taries, which abound in very fine trout — and quite a business is carried on in catch- ing and salting Ihem for the trade. The river here runs almost due north, to Port Neuf Gap. Before reaching the Gap, it comes to Bear Lake, from which it takes its name. The lake is about 15 miles long by seven wide, and contains plenty of trout and other fish. There arc some pretty Mormon settlements at diflerent points along the river and lake shore. The Upper Bear Lake Valley is a point of great interest on account of the fertility of the soil, its romantic situation, the beautiful and grand scenery of rock, lake and mountain in that neighborhood. The valley lies in Rich county, the most north- ern county in Utah Territory, and is about 25 miles long, with a varying width. At Port Neuf Gap, the river turns, and thence its course is nearly due south, until it emi^ties into Great Salt Lake, near the town of Corinne. The course of the river can best be understood when v>'e say that it resembles the letter U in shape. From where it rises it runs due noi th to latitude 42 deg. ^0 min., then suddenly turning, it runs south to latitude 41 deg. 43 min., before it finds the lake. Within this bend lies the Wasatch Mountains, a spur of the Uintah, a rugged, rough, bold, but narrow range. The entire region js wild and pictur- esque, and would well repay the tourist for the time spent in visiting it. About sixty miles distant, to the north, are the far-famed Soda Springs, of Idaho, situated in Oneida county, Idaho Territory. The old route, by which this northern country was reached, was from Ogden, via Ogden Canyon and Ogden Valley; 710W the best route is via Utah Northern railroad to Franklin, and from thence east ; see further on. We now return to the road, and pass down the valley, cross Yellow Creek, one of the tributaries of Bear River, and 9.5 miles from Millis, arrive at Evanston — This is a regular eating station, where trains from the East and \Vest Slop 30 minutes for dinner; the wait- ers are Chinese. —The meals, good. Evanston is the county seat of Uintah county, Wyoming, 957 miles from either Omaha or San Francisco -jws^ lialf icay between the jMissouri River and the Pa- cific Ocean. The Railroad Company have erected a 20-stall round-house, repair shops, hotel, freight and passenger buildings, and the place has improved otlierwise very much. It now contains about 1,200 white and about 150 Chinese inhabitants. The town boasts of some good buildings — including a fine court-house. The Age, a weekly newspaper, is published here. The citizens of Evanston are mostly en- gaged in lumbering, coke-burning, coal- mining and stock-raising. The'railroad was completed to this point late in the fall of 1868, and a large amount of freight was delivered here for Salt Lake Valley and Montana. Saw-mills supply lumber from the almost inexhaustible pine forests on Bear River to the south- ward. About three miles east to the right of the road, and of Bear River Valley, is located the town of Alma — Here are located some of the most valuable coal mines on the road, and AM) I'ACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 81 whicli supply large quantities to the rail- road company. The mines are said to be very extensive, easily worked, yielding coal of good quality, and employ about 800 men, most of whom are Chinese. From 150 to 200 car loads are shijjped from Alma per day to towns on the line of the Central Pa- cilic railroad, to Virginia City, Gold Hill, and Carson in Nevada and to San Fran- cisco. A branch railroad has been con- structed to the mines, leading off about '^one mile north of Evanstou. Soon after leaving Evanston we leave Bear River to the right, ard follow up a beautiful little valley eleven miles to Wasatcll — This station was once a regular eating station, with round-house and machine shops of the company located liere, but a change has been made to Evanston, and the place is now deserted. Four miles west we cross the dividing line between Wyoming and Utah Territo- ries. It is marked by a sign-board beside the road, on which is painted on one side, "Wyoming," the other " Utah." Game is found in the hills— deer, elk, and antelope — and in the Uintah and Wa- satch ranges, brown, black and cinnamon bear are common, and in all the little streams, fish of different kinds are abun- dant— iroM^ particularly. On leaving Wasatch, we arrive at the divide and head of Echo Canon, one-half mile distant. Here we find the longest tunnel on the road, 770 feet in length,"cut through hard red clay and sandstone. When the tunnel was completed, it was ap- proached from the east by two long pieces of trestle-work, one of which was 230 feet long and 30 feet high ; the other 450 feet long and 75 feet high, which have since been filled in with earth. The tunnel opens to the westward, into a beautiful little canyon, with a narrow strip of grassy bottom land on either side of a miniature stream, known as the North Fork of Echo. The hills are abrupt, and near the road, leaving scarcely more than room for a roadway, including the grassy land re- ferred to. Along these blulfs, on the left- hand side of the stream, the road-bed has been made by cutting down the sides of the hills and filling hollows, in some pla- ces from 50 to 75 feet deep. Before the tunnel was completed, the road was laid temporarily from the divide into Echo Canyon by a Z or zigzag track, which let the cars down to the head of the canyon — under the trestles above named. The great difficulty to overcome by the railroad company in locating the road from this point into Salt Lake Valley was the absence of spurs or sloping hills to carry the grade. Every thing seems to give way at once, and pitch headlong away to the level of the lake. The rim, or outer edge, of the table-lands, breaks ab- ruptly over, and the streams which make out from this table-land, instead of keep- ing their usual grade, seem to cut through 'PRICKEY," THE PET HORXED TOAD OF THE PACIFIC COAST. See Page 126. 82 CROFUTT S XEAV OVERLAND TOURIST the rim and drop into the valley below, there being no uplands to cany them. By the present line of road, the cars enter Echo Canyon proper at the little sta- tion of €!astle Rock — 8.4 miles from Wasaich. This station derives its name from the long line of sandstone blufl's on the right-hand side of the canyon, which are worn and torn away until, in the dis- tance, they have the appearance of the old feudel castles, so often spoken of, but so seldom seen, by modern tourists. For a long distance these rocks line the right- hand bank of the canyon, their massive red sandstone fronts towering from 500 to 1,500 feet above the little valley, and hear- ing the general name of " Ca-tle Rocks." The cars descend the canyon amid some of the grandest and wildest scenery iman the 0th of T larch, 1863, these parties were all pardoned by Hon. S. S. Harding, who had that spring arrived in Utah as Governor of the Territory. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 87 Leaving Uintah, the road winds around to the right and follows the base of the mountains, with the river on the left. The country is fertile and dotted with well- tilled tarms. As we run along down the Weber River, and 7,5 miles from Uintah, we reach Ogden — the junction of Union and Cen- tral Pacitic railroads. The distance from Omaiia is ],0o2 miles; from San Francisco 882 miles; from Salt Lake City, 36 miles; elevation, 4,o01 feet. Near the station building are the depots of the Utah Cen- tral and the Utah & Norlhern railroads. All passengers, baggage, mail, and ex- press, " change cars " at this station. Pas- sengers who have through tickets in sleep- ing cars v\ill occupy the same numbers in the Central as they had in the Union, and those who had their baggage checked through need give it no attention; but those who only checked to this place— to the end of the U. P. road — will need to see that it is re-checked. At this station, trains stop a full hour, and sometimes a little longer — much depending upon the amount of matter to be changed from one train to another. The station building stands between the tracKs, in which passengers will find a dining room, where they can have ample time to eat a gootl "square meal " — price $1.00. Mo.-tof the buildings at the station are of wood, but the nece-sary grounds have been secured near by for the erection of a " Union Depot." When will it be done? Qiiieii snbcf Ogden City is s.tuated one miles east from the depot, at the mouth of Ogden Canyon, one of the gorges which pierce the Wasatch range, and between the Weber and Ogden rivers. Population, about 6,500. This is the county seat of Weber county, and has ainpl}' provided itself with all needful county buildings. The Mor- mons have a tabernacle, and several other denominations have places of woivhip here. The citizens are mostly Mormon, and all public improvements are under their supervision. It is a poor place for " carpet-baggers." The waters of the Ogden River are con- ducted through the streets, and used in the gardens and lields for irrigating, the re- sult of which is that the city is in the midst of one great tlower garden and for- est of fruit and shade trees. In the gar- dens are fruit trees of all kinds, -which bear abundantly, and in the tields are raised immense crops of grain and vege- tables. Rich mine> of iron, silver and slate are reported near the city, but little has been done towards developing them. Ogden has several good hotels, chief of which is the Utah House. Two news- papers are published here. Ihe Junction and the Chronicle. The Wasatcli JVlounrains r.se some thou- sands of feet above the city, and the tourist would tiud much of interest in a stroll up the mountain side and along the canyons. Ogden Canyon is about five miles long, and from its mouth to its source, from plain to mountain lop, the scenery is grand and im- posing. In places the granite walls rise on each side l,r)00 feet higb, and for a consid- erable distance not more than 150 feet apart. About six miles from Ogden, up in the mountains behind the town, is a lovely lit- tle valley called "The Basin," watered by mountain streams and covered with a lux- uriant growth of grass. Before proceeding fuither, we will take a hasty glance at Utah Territory. This territory extends from the 37th to Ihe 4'2d parallel of north latitude, and from the lOilth to the 114th degree of west longi- tude, containing a superticial area of about 65,000 square miles, with a population of about 143,907 whites, Indians and Chinese. This area includes large tracts of wild mountainous and barren country. At pres- ent, most of the lands under cultivation and the meadow lands are around the lakes and in the neighboring mountain val- leys, and are very productive when irii- gated; grains, fruits and vegetables matur- ing readily, and yielding large returns — the aridity of the climate precluding the growing of crops by any other means. Opposite title page of ihis book, see illus- ti'ation — Utah's Best Crop. Rich veins of gold, silver, coal, iron, cop. per, zinc, cinnabar, antimony and nearly all the metals found in the "Great West," ex'.st in Utah, and it is the opinion of most men, had it not been for the " Councils" of Brigham Young to his followers, the Mor- mons, not to prospect lor minerals, Utah might to-day be an honored State, in the great tamily of States, with a developed mineral wealth, second only to Calif(jruia, and possibly the firs'. The whole country within her borders would be illuminated 8S- C ItoFUTT S NEW OVERLAND XOUKIST with the perpetual fires of her "smelting furnaces," and resound with the thuuderiug echoes and re-echoes of the thousands of de- scending stamps grinding out the wealth, which, since the compleiion of the Pacific railroad, and the consequent influx of "Gentiles" has been exported by mil- lions and most efi'ectually demonstrated the fact that Utah, if nottherichesi, is certainly next \o the richest silver-mining country in the world. Besides the above, brimstone, saltpeter, gypsum, plumbago audsodahave been dis- covered, some of which are being worked, while fire-clay, marble, granite, slate, red and white sandstone, limestone and kindred formations exist to an almost unlimitetl ex- tent. Salt can be shoveled up in its crude state on the shores of Salt Lake, and in the southern part of the Territory, is found by the mountain, in a remarkably transparent and pure state. Iron ore exists in large quantities in Iron, Summit and A\ eber counties. Coal abounds in various parts, but the principal mines now worked are at Coalville, in Summit coimty and in San Pete. The lat- ter yields a good quality of blacksmith coal, in large quautilies. At this time there are about 30 organized mining districts in the Territory. We have not the space to devote to a description of the mines, were we able ; they appear to be Inexliuiistible and very rich. Man>- are producing large quantities of ore. Fish culture has, since 1874, been re- ceiving some attention, and a fish farm with a superintendent thereof, is located a few miles from Salt Lake City. There are quite a numl)er of smelting furnaces in operation in various parts of the Territory, and in Salt Lake City. Utah was first settled in 1847. On tlu 24th of July, the advance guard of the Mor mon emigration, numbering 143 men, en- tered Salt Lake Valley; five days later 150 more men arrived under Captain Brown, and on July 31st, Great Salt Lake City was laid out. At that time the country be- longed to the Republic of Mexico, but bj* the treaty of GaudahAip Hidalgo, in 1848 it was ceded to the United States. The summers are very warm and dry; the winters mild and open. The fall of snow is light in the valley and heavy in the mountain, the melting of which aflbrds ample water for irrigating the foot-hills and valleys. Vegetables of all kinds grow astonishingly large, and of superior qualiy. Timber is not very plenty, and then, is only found in the mountains of difficult ac- cess. Return ing to business ; at Ogden, we will step into the cars of the Utah Central Railroad, The princiiJal ofiices of which are at Salt Lake City. Sidney Dillon Presiilent John Shakp Vice-President Fii ANcis Cope Freight and Ticket Agent The Utah Central is 36 5 miles in length and the pioneer road of Utah, excepting the through line. May 17, 1809, just one week after the "love feast" of the Union and the Central at Promeutory, ground was broken at Ogdi'u, and the enterprise was inaugurated with due ceremonies; Presi- dent Brighani Young and the chief digni- taries of the Morm(jn church being in at- tendance. In about half an hour after the overland trains arrive at Ogden Junction, the cars of this road roll up to the depot for passengers. When leaving, the train crosses tlie Weber River, on a fine bridge ; just to the north of the depot passes through a deep cut and comes out on a bench of j and that gradually slopes from the mountains on the left, to the waters of the lake on the right, six and four miles distant, respectively. From the car window, on the right, a good view can be had of a portion of Great Salt Lake, but the best view is to be had from the top of Promontory Mountain. See Annex No. 21. The first station from Ogden is 16 miles distant, along the slop- ing laud named, which is covered above the line of irrigation, with sage, but below with the thrifty JMormon farmers. A wide strip of land near the Lake is valueless, owing to the salt in the soil. Kaysville — is an incorporated town in Davis county, and is surrounded with well-cultivateil farms, finely kept gardens, with water running through the streets, and has fruit and shrubbery in profusion. The county is comprised of five towns, all, with one exception, traversed by our roa'l, within the next 15 miles. The county has about 7,000 population, seven flouring mills and three saw mill •. F All iM ING TON — is the next station, five miles distant, being the county seat of Davis county, and contains gootl county buildings, several flouring mills, and the usual beautiful surroundings of fruit trees and orchards, for which all Mormon set- tlements are noted. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 89 BRIGIIAM VOUM. , r l.-l ij i Centekville— is the next station, four miles t'vom Furmington. The description of one Mormon viHage will do for nearly all; good farms and crops are the rule, where the land is irrigated, and none where it is not. Wood's Crossing— comes next, two miles further, being the station for the lit- tle village of Bountiful, on the left, and is in the midst of the best cultivated and best producing land in the Territory. The course of our road froni Ogden to Salt Lake is almost due soutli, while the Wasatch Mountains, for 30 miles, describe a huge circle in the middle to the east- ward. The lower point of this circle we are fast approaching, and will reach in about two miles, just at the point of the mountain ahead, where steam is rising. There, under the point of that huge rock, boils up a hot spring, in a large volume, forming a creek several feet in width, with a depth of six inches, and it is very hot- There is n(. nonsense about this spring; it sends forth a never-failing stream. The highest peak in the mountain, close to tlie eastward of these springs al- luded to, is 1,200 feet above the valley, and is 90 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST called Ensign Peak — the " Mount of Proph- ecy," — where the late Prophet, Brigham Youug, was wont to wrestle with the Lord. Just beyond, on the right, is Hot Spring Lake, which is formed from the waters of this and others of lesser volume, near by. This lake freezes over in the winter, except near the shore on the northeastern end, and is a great resort for skaiing parties from Salt Lake City. Great Salt Lake never freezes over — it's too salt. Pasi?ing the lake, our road keeps straight across a broad bottom, while the moun- tains on the left again curve away to the eastward. The W'arm Spring buildings, where are located the city baths, can be seen beside the mountain on the left, marked by a con- tinuous column of steam, rising near the bui. dings. These are the disputed springs, to obtain possession of which, it is supposed by many. Dr. Robinson was murdered. The baths are well patronized by invalids, who visit them for health, relying on their me- dicinal qualities to remove their ailments. The following is an analysis of the water, as made by Dr. Charles T. Jackson, of Boston : Tluee fluid ounces of the water on evap- oration to entire dryness in a platina cap- sule gave 8.25 grains ef solid, dry, saline matter. Carbonate of lime and magnesia 0.240 1.280 Per oxide of iron 0.040 0.208 Lime 54.5 2.9J7 Clilorine.... 3.454 18.4-21 Soda S.SIT 1.-.348 JMasneeia 370 2.C73 Sulpliuric acid 0. 703 3.748 8.229 43.981 It is slightly charged with hydro-sul- phuric acid gas and with carbonic acid gas, and is a pleasant saline mineral water, having valuable properties belonging to saline sulphur springs. The usual tem- perature is 102 degrees F. They are one mile north of Salt Lake City, and are i cached by street cars. Rolling on through the northern suburbs of the city, a little over eight miles from Wood's Crossing, we stop at the depot in Salt Lake, the City of Zion. Passengers arriving at the depot will find a " Bus " at the eastern gt'te that will take a passenger and his baggage to any hotel or pointin the city for 50 cents; or, at the same gate, street cars, that pass the door of every prominent hotel in the city; fare, 10 cents, or ten tickets for 50 cents. Salt Lake City— or "Zion," as the city is often called % the JNIormon faith- ful, is one of the mosi beautiful and pleas- antly located of cities. It is situated at the foot of a spur of the Wasatch Mountains, the northern limits extending on to the "bench" or upland, which unites the plain with the mountain. From the east two wagon roads enter the city, via Emi- grant and Parley Canyons. The streets are wide, bordered with shade-trees, and laid out at right angles. Along each side of the streets is a clear, cold stream of water from the mountain canyons, which, with the numerous shade- trees and gardens, give the city an inde- scribable air of coolness, comfort and re- pose. The city contains a population of full 25,000, is the capital of the Territory and county seat of Salt Lake county. It has 21 wards within its limits, and is the terminus of four railioads. It contains some as tine business blocks, hotels, and private residences — many lit by electricity— as can be found in any eity west of the Missouri River. 'Ihe Mormon church, besides its Taber- nacle, has a bishop located in every ward of the city, who holds ward meetings regu- larly. The other churihes hold services in four or more places in the city. The Ma- sons have Ave lodges in the city ; the Odd Fellows four, and some of the vther fellows several. There are o8 mining and smelling offices, tive sampling and smelt- ing works, tive iron foundries, boiler and brass works, twotiouringmills, one woolen mill, nine hotels, six breweries, two exten- sive marble works, and a score or more of small manufacturing establishments. There are four daily newspapers. The JDesi ret News is the church organ, ihe Her- ald i laiins to be independent, the Tribune strong opposition Mormcm, and the Tinas. Ecicii ol these issue weeklies. Ne\\spiiper businesb is «(/?/ precarious in Utah, it's as tine an opening for a young man to get his "teeth cut," as we know of in the wor.d— he can soon get a double and single set all around. In the mercantile line. Salt Lake City TiRMS Heakd on the Plains. — " Lariai" Is ihe Span sti name for rope. •' Bronco," Califor- nia or bpanisli pony. " Bueano," (wa-no) good_ '• Esta Binano," (gtarwa no) very good, nobettt r. " Ko sabc',"' (sar\ey) don't understand. " (Juien sabe," (kin tarvex ) who knows, or do you under- stand. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 91 has several establishments Ihat would do credit to any city in the Union, one of which is The above cut represents the Mormon " Co-operative Sign " — called by the Gen- tiles the " Bull's Eye." At the Mormon Conference, in the fall of 18i;8, all good Mormon merchants, manufacturers and dealers who desired the patronage of the Mormon people, were directed to place this sign upou their buildings in a conspic- uous place, that it might indicate to the people that they were sound in tho faith. The INIormou people were also directed and warned not to purchase goods or in any manner deal witli those who refused or did not; have the sign. Tt;e object seemed to be only to deal with their own people, to the exclusion of all others. The result of the>e measures on the part of the church was to force many who were Gentiles or apostate Mormons to sacrifice their goods, and leave the Terri- tory for want of patronage. However, the order was not very strictly enforced — or complied with yet many of these signs are to be seen in Salt Lake City and other parts ofthe Territory on buildings occupied by the faithful. To more efiectually carry out the plan of co-operation, one great company was to be formed to purchase goods in large quantities and establish branches through- out all the Mormon settlements. Such a company was organized, and incorporated with many high Mormon dignitaries as either stockholders or ofiicers, and it is now known as "Zion's Co-operative Mercantile- Institution" — with headquarters in Salt Lake City. The " Z. C. M. I," undoubtedly have the finest and largest building in the city. It is of brick, SiS feet long, 53 feet in width, three stories and cellar, end finished throughout in the best manner. It als» has an addition 25 by 11)5 feet, ■uul used for a warehouse; cost, $175,000, built of iron, stone and glass, and is now being enlarged. The Walker Bros, have liie largest Mercantile business in Utali, requiring five different departments, each occupying a large building. Think of it. "0 ye peoplel" 35 years ago this whole country 1,000 miles in any direction, was uninhabited and almost un- known to the white race.Now annual sales of these two establishments exceed $5,000,- 000, and with the-ir goods, gathered here from all parts of the world, stand Ibrth as monuments of American enterprise, in an AMERICAN DESERT. "* Tlie late President Brigham Young's- residence (see illustration, page 89, alsa of 'Eagle Gate," page 109), tithing house, printing office and business offi- ces connected with the church occupy an entire block, on the bench of land over- looking the city, which is one of the first objects of interest visited by the traveler on arriving in Salt Lake City. The traveler who visited this city some years ago — before the iliscoveiy of the rich silver nimes — would be surprised by a visit now, at the remarkable changes, noticeable on every hand; all is life and energy; everybody seems to have a pocket- ful of certificates of mining property, and you hear of extensive preparations making on every side with a view to a vigorous- prosecution of various mining enterprises. The public buildings are not very numer- ous. They consist of a court-house, city hall, city prison, theatre, ant! The Tabernacle — an immense build- irg— the first object one beholds on enter- ing the city. The building is oblong in shape, having a lengtii of 250 feet from east to west, by 150"feet in width. The- roof is supported by 4G columns of cut sandstone, which, with tlie spaces be'ween^ used for doors, windows, etc., constitute the wall. From these piUars or walls, tiie roof springs in one unbroken arch, l^orni- •92 CROFDTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ing the largest self-sus- taining roof on the con- tinent, witli one notable exception, the Grand Union Depot, NewYorlv. The ceiling of the roof is •65 ft. above the floor. In one end of this egu- shaped building is thi organ, the second in si/i in America. The Tabei nacleisused f or churcli purposes, as vi'ell as oth er large gatherings of the people. With the gal lery it will seat 8,000 peo- ple. See illustration, p 69, also interior view, 8j. TheTempl e.— This building is not yet com- pleted, but work is pro gressing steadily, and il is up about 30 ft, The d mensions of the found i tion are 99xl86i feet. Tin site of the Temple is on the eastern half of th*^ same block with the Tabernacle. Since the advent of ^'°' railroads into Utah and the discovery of rich mines, church property has not accumulated very rapidly. Within the past few years nearly all the religious denominations have secured a foot- hold in this city. Fort Douglas — a militai'y post, es- tablished Oct. 26, 18(i2, by Gen. E. P. Conner, Third Kegiment of California Volunteer Infantry, is situated on the east side of the Jordan, 4 miles from that stream, 3 miles cast of the City of Salt Lake, and 15 miles southeast of Salt Lake. Latitude 40 deg. 46 min. 2 sec. : longitude. 111 deg. 53 min. 34 sec. Its location is on a sloping upland or bench at the base of the mountains and overlooking the city, and affords a fine view of the country to the west and south. JoRD.AN EivER. — This stream, which borders salt Lake City on the west, is the outlet of Utah Lake, which lies about 40 miles south. It empties into the Great Salt Lake, about 12 miles northwest of the city. There are a great many hotels in Salt Lake City, but the principal ones .are the Walker, Continental, White, MON TEMPLE, SALT LAKE CITY. Cliff, Yalley and Overland. The two former are under the management of G. S. Erb, Esq., and we know them to be first-claiis. The picture of the late President BrighamYoung on page 89, was the last one ever taken. It was made by Mr. Savage of Salt Lake City, an eminent artist and is said to be a very accu- rate picture. For sketch of the life of Brigham Young, see Annex 25. We will now take a run over all the railroads in Utah, commencing with the Utah Sontliei'ii Railroad. This road was consolidated in 1881 with the Utah Central. It was com- menced May 1st, 1871, and built thii'- teen miles during the year, to Sandy, and then extended from time to time until at this time, January, 1882, it is completed 226 miles south, to Frisco. The cars start from the same depot as the Central. We will step on board and roll south- ward through the city — passing fine AXD rACIFlC COAST GUIDE. 93 residences, beautiful gardens, thrifty or- chards, and well-cultivated lields, with the Jordan River on our right, the Oquirrh range of mountains far in the distance, and the towering Wasatch Mountains on our left ; tills is Jordan Valley. This val- ley extends from Salt Lake City, south, to Utah Lake, about 40 miles distant, with a varying widtli of from two to twelve miles. About five miles south, on the left, is situated the Morgan Smelting Works, on the creek that comes down from Big Cot- tou'i^'ood, and opposite Parley Canyon, which can be seen on the east, just below the mouth of which is located the State Penitentiary, and the Utah "Woolen Mill. Crossing the creek, and passing on seven miles from the city, we come to Little Cottonwood — the first station. On the left are the Wasatch Smelting Works, and a little beyond the American Smelting Works. Just after crossing the Little Cottonwood Creek, on the right, is the big Germania Smelting and Refining Works, witli the town of Germania, con- taining 500 inhabitants. Passing along, on the right, can be seen great piles of silver ore — " matte " as it is called. From this point the mountain view is grand; to the eastward, the canyons of Parley, Mill Creek, Big and Little Cotton- wood, and Dry Creek, are all in view. The country here shows what irriga- tion is doing for it; there can be no finer lands or crops than are here found. In every direction the land is covered with a labyrinth of canals and ditches, conduct- ing the essence of life to all vegetation be- neath them, and literally causing the land to flow with " milk and honey." Five miles further we come to Junction — a small station, where all passengers for West Mountain, Bingham Canyon Mines, and the vicinity, " change cars " for those of the Biugliaiii Canyon Railroad. [In 18S2 this road became a brancn or tue Denver & Kio Grande Western, and is operated in conuecticu 'with, their through line.] This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, completed to the mouth of Bingham Can- yon, 1(3 miles west, and had cars running December 1st, 1873. Let us take a roll over it. Leaving the junction, our course is due west, through a well-cultivatcd section of country. Jordan Station — is one mile distant, where there is a postnflice, and a small collection of cottages. Near by, a track leads off to the Old Telegraph Smelter^ the dressing works of which are a short distance below the road, on the opposite side of the Jordan River, which we cross soon after leaving the station. Just as we raise on to the west bank of the Jordan, we come to the residence of Bishop Gardner, who is the "better half" of elfceii wives. The Bishop appears to stand it pretty well, although they (?o say that lie is occasionally found singing, " On Jordan's stormy banks I stand," with a tear accompaniment. West Jordan — is on the west bank of the river and contains a few hundred peo- ple. From this station, the grade in- creases, and soon we reach a high table- laud, too high for irrigation by ditches, without great expense. Bunchgrass, Avhite sage, sheep, some cattle, and Jack-rabbits abound — the latter are very numerous. The road, about five miles from the river, enters the long, broad ravine that leads to Bingham, up which we roll — the ravine gradually becoming narrower as we ascend. Occasionally we pass a little farm-house, and a few acres of farm and garden land. Neariug the mountains, the ravine narrows, to a few hundred feet, and finally lo only sutficient room for the rail- road and a little creek, between the blutt's on each side. These bluffs are from 250 to 1,000 feet in height, covered with small stone, sage, and a few small pine trees. As we ascend, the blufis are more pre- cipitous, higher and pierced in numerous places with "prospect holes." In places the grade is 120 feet, p,nd tJien, more, and finally it becomes too much lor our ii on horse, and we stop at the end of the steam road, one mile below Bingham City — population about 2,000. Just below the city is located on the left, the Wiunemucca mill and mine. We knoio it is there, as we " prospected " it once — about 30 feet. Bingham City is built along the canyon for two miles, and contains a number of mills and works connect! d with mining. From the station, a tramway up which small ore cars are hauled with mules, extends up the canyon for three miles, with a branch running back fiom about half the distance up to a mine on the top of the mountain, about one and a half miles u CltOFUTT S XEAV OYERLAXD TOURIST further, making of tramway 41^^ miles; •\vliole leiiglli of road SO^o miles. The tramway is built ou the south side of the canyon, away up on the side of the mountain. From the cars can be had a fine view of the canyon, Bingham, the mines and mills in the neigliboring ravines and on the opposite moimt.iiu side, and the miners at ihe bottom of the canyon, working over the old "placer diggings." At the end of this tramway is located the old Telegraph mine, one of the richest in tlie Territory, from which over 200 tons of ore a day is shipjied, down over the tram and railroad to the smelters in the valley. The cars are h luled up by mules, and low- ered down to the " iron horse" below Bing- ham by the car brakes. TJae mines are numerous in and around Bingham, but we have ])0t the space for a description of them, but will return to the junction on the Utah Southern, and one mile further arrive at Sandy — This station is 13 mile? south of Salt Lake City, and one of considerable im- portance. At Sandy is to be seen immense quanti- ties of ore — ore in sacks, ore loose by the car load, ore in warehouses 500 feet long, with a train unloading on one side and an- other loading on the other ; in fact, this is the greatest shipping, smelting and sam- pling point in all Utah. At Sandy are three sampling works, and two smelting works, and a lively town of 700 inhabitants, the greater portion em- ployetl in the handling and manipulation of ores. Here we find another railroad branching oti"; this time it is the Wasatch & Jordan Valley . [In 18S2 this road passed to the control of the Denver & Kio Grande Western, and is now oper- ated iti connection with their through line.] This road is a three-foot narrow-gauge, 16 miles in length, running to Alta, at the head of Little Cottonwood Canyon. It is opernted by narrow gauge steam engines for 8.5 miles, and the other 7.5 by broad (jaui/e mii\t s. The road was commenced in 1870, finished to Wasatch in 1872, and to Alta in 1876. Let us take a trip over it and note a few of the sights. From Sandy the train runs north a short distance, and then tuinsto the east, directly for the Wasatch Mountains, leavingthe old Flagstaff smelter ou the left-hand side of the "track, just above the station. The grade is heavy, the soil is stony, and cov- ered more or less with sage-brush, and traversed by irrigating ditches conveying the water to a more productive and less stony soil below. Nearing the mountains, about six miles from Sandy, we come to a deep gorge on the Iclt, through which Little Cottonwood Creek has worn its way to the valley. From this point we bear away to the south-ward around a low butte, then turn again to the cast and northward and run along on an elevated plateau where a most beautiful view can be had. On the west, the Jordan Valley, in all its magnificent shades of green and gold, is at our feet, with the brown old mountains bordering the hori- zon in the distance. To the north, fifteen miles away, over as beautiful a succession of little streams, well-cultivated fields, white cottages, orchards and gardens, as are to be found witliin the same number of miles in this country — sleeps "Zion" in full view, embowered in green, with the dome of the monster Tabernacle glistening like some half-obscured " silv. . moon," sinking at the mountain base; while /«r beyond, and more to the westward, lays the Great Salt Lake -a mysterious pr blem. Away to the south, is Utah Lake, looking likerne large sheet of burnish' d silver, surrounded by a net-work of green and gold, while to the cast looms up towering granite m alls, cleft from summit to base, forming a nar- row gorge only sufficient y wide to allow our little road to be buiit beside a little rippling creek of crystal water. Rolling along, our train I'ounds the head of a ravine, through a deep cut, passes the old Davenport Smelting Works ou the leff, enters the mouth of thj canyon be- tween great walls of granite, crosses and re- crosses the little cr ek, and soon stops at Wasatch — the end 01 the steam road, 8.5 miles from San iy Junction. This is a small station with postofflce, store, and a few dwellings containing a population of about 100, more than ^alf of whom are en- gaged in the stone quarries on the north side of the station. At Wasatch all the granite is got out and shaped for the Temple in Salt Lake City. The stone is the best yet discovered in the Territtuy, being of close, fine grain, of light gray color, and of beautiful birds-eye appearance. The granite on the south side appears much darker than that on the north side of the canyon. From almost every nook and crevice of these mountain clifi's— from the station away AXl) I'ACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 95 up the canyon — grow small pines, cedars, ferus, and mosses, which, iu connection with the gray walls, snow-capped moii i- taius, glistening waterfalls, pure air and golden sun, presents a picture of rare beauty. Just above, on the left of the station, away up on a projecting cliff, 1,000 feet above the I'oad, stands a granite column which measures GG -3 feet in height, from the pedestal-like cliti' on which it stands. On each side of this column, and receding from its base, is a little grotto-park, filled with nature's evergreens, and surrounded on three sides and on the top with rocks of every size and shape. Finding that this granite column has had no name, we name it " Humphry's Peak," in honor of the very gentlemanly late superintendent of the road. At Wasatch we "change cars," taking those of about the size of an ordinary hand-car, fitted up with seats that will com- fortably accommodate about nine persons, besides the knight of the whip — who chir- rups the •' broad gauge mules." About a half-mile above the station we enter the snow-sheds, which will continue for seven miles, to the end of the track at Alta— asmall mining town, at the head of little Cottonwood Canyon. The end of the track is on the side of the mountain about 200 feet above i\\i town of Alta, and about 500 feet below the mouth of the cele- brated Emma Mine, whi^ ' is a little fur- ther to the east, and oppos the Flagstafl" Mine, which is about the same height above the road. The town of Alta is at the bottom of the canyon 200 feet lower than the end of the railroad surrounded with mountain peaks, which are covered with snow eight months of the year, and at all times surrounded with an eternal mantle of evergreen. It contains about 500 population, all of whom are engaged in mming and kindred pursuits. There are several stores, express, telegraph, and postoffice, besides several small hotels, chief of which is the Adolph. To the north, over the mountain two miles is the Big Cottonwood .Canyon ; to the south, three miles, is the Miller Mine, and American Fork Canyon ; Forest City is four miles. Three miles east by trail is Crystal Lake, a beautiful sheet of water — the angler's paradise. The principal mines near Alta are, the Emma, Flagstafl", Grizzly, Nabob, Kate Hays, Consolidated Alta, Laramie, Prince of Wales, and 1,800 others, located within five miles. The business of the railroad is the transportation of ores and supplies to and from the mines. Hundreds of cars are loaded daily with ore that is taken to the valley to be smelted or are sent to San Francisco, the East, or to Swansea, Wales. For novel methods of hauling ore to the depot, see Annex No. 24. The sheds over the railroad are seven miles in length, and are made in various styles of arcliitecture, more for husmess than beaut}', the style being adopted accord- ing to circumstances. They are, however, in all places constructed of heavy material, rocks, round or sawed timber, and built in the most substantial manner. In one place they are in the shape of a letter A, sharp peaked; in otner places, nearly upright on each side, one side higher than the other, with a sloping roof. Again the lower hill- side is built with a little slope toward the up hill side, and long heavy timbers from the top of these uprights slope up onto the mouniain side, resting on a solid granite foundation leveled to a uniform grade, for that purpose. Where the latter plan has been adopted, there is danger of snow-slides which are more likely to occur, in fact, have occurred a number of limes since the ^heds were con- structed, and each time, the snow and rocks passed over the shed into the canyon below, without causing one cent's worth of damage to the road or shed. Thelenirthof this road, where it is oper- ated with mules, is seven miles long. As before stated, the grade is 600 feet to the mile; the curves are in places 30 degrees, and not, as once stated in the '' Bailwiy Age'' 30 curves and GOO foot gauge. But we suppose that Col. Bridges, when he Avrote that, was thinking about those "broad gauge mules." Returning, the mule power that took us up is no longer in demand ; the knight of the whip now mans the brakes, and away we go around i\\e Age's 30 curves, to the valley below, "change cars" at Sandy, and are once more headed for the south, on the Utah Southern railroad. A short distance south, we pass the Mcintosh Sampling mill, on the west and another on tlie east. Sampling is testing such ores as are pre- sented in quantities sufficient to enable the sampling coniprtuy tp give certificates of their va]uv\ and then tlw ore is sold at the certificate rates. One mi'iC further is the Mingo S/aifltcr pf the Penn. Lead Co. / / / 96 CROFUTT S >rEW OVERLAND TOUKISl' The land is more rolling, as we approacli Draper — Tliis is not a very important station to the tourist, but to the few vil- lagers of Herramon, at the mouth of a little canyon beside the mountains on the left, it is a big institution. Draper is four miles from Sandy and seventeen from Salt Lake City. Leaving Draper, our course is east, and after crossing South Willow Creek, turns more to the south, and finally to the west, having kept around the foot of the moun- tains, which here make a full half-circle. In the distance around, there are many cuts and some hard work, and we queried, why the road was built around, when the work was so heavy and the distance much further than across where there was very little work to be done? In answer, we were told that President Brigham Young laid out the road around the side of the moun- tain, by " revelation.''^ If that is so, we con- clude that tlie revelation came from the same "deity" that took our Savior up on the Mount, but as it is not " our funeral," we will not criticise. The lower point of the great curve is called the "Point of tlieMountain." At the point where the railroad is built around, the track is about 300 feet above a little round valley to the west, in which is lo- cated a hot spring, marked by a brown burned patch of land and rising steam. As our train curves around this point, a most charming view can be had ; one of the finest on the road. The valley is here nearer, to the northward the view in unob- structed for 50 miles ; to the south, Utah Lake, a gem in rich setting, and the great Lower Basins. Passing through numerous cuts and around the point, the train curves again to the eastward, and starts again on another grand curve around the rim of the basin, in which is located Utah Lake, in plain view. Nearly opposite the "point of the moun- tain" is a low divide in the Oquirrh Range on the west, over which the road leads to Camp Floyd. Continuing along through sand cuts, sage and an occasional farm, 14 miles from Draper we arrive at Leui — This town is situated in the midst of a perfect forest of fruit trees, orchards and gardens, Avith the waters of Dry Canyon Creek running through all the st' eets, and contains a population of about 1,500, includ- ing those living in the immediate vicinity. The good results of irrigating sage-brush land, are here demonstrated by the large crops of wheat, oats, barley and vegetables produced, where, before the land was irri- gated, nothing but sage-brush and grease- wood were to be seen. Three miles further is American Fork — a station 34 miles from Salt Lake City — the "banner "town for free schools; the ^rst in the Terri- tory, having been established here in 1869. The streets are wide, with the waters of Deer Creek, which comes down the Amer- ican Fork Canyon, running through them, and the orchards, gardens and farms in the neighborhood making an attractive and beautiful town. The population numbers about 1,600, the greater portion of wliom are engaged in agricultural pursuits. The American Fork House, opposite the sta- tion, is tlie principal hotel, and Robert Keppeueck is one of the jolliest of German hosts. To the southwest of the station, a com- pany is engaged in building a dam across the Jordan River for irrigating purposes. The canal is to be 22 feet wide on the bot- tom and 30 inches deep, and when comple- ted will e.Ktend north 20 miles, winding around the base of the Wasatch, near our road, keeping as far up on tlie side of the mountain as possible. From the dam, a ca- nal will be taken out for the west side of the Jordan, with a view of taking the water all over the lauds as far north as Salt Lake City, and if possible, reclaim the vast tract of sage land between the Jordan River at Salt Lake City, and the Oquirrh Range, at the foot of Salt Lake. From this station a road branches off to the eastward, up American Fork Canyon, called the American Fork Railroad. {Since the following description was written, the iron track of this road has been removed, and the road abandoned.} This was a three-foot, narrow gauge rail- road, 15 miles in length ; commenced May, 1872, and completed 12 miles during the year. The grade for the whole distance is heavy, in places 312 feet to the mile. Leaving the station at American Fork, the road turns directly to the east, and fol- lows up Deer Creek, through a general as- sortment of sage brush, sand and boulders, for six miles to the mouth of the Canyon. On the way up, to the right, a fine view can be had of Mt. Aspinwall, rising frorn the lower range of the Wasatch to an alti- ANJ> PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 97 ml; brxgham young's residkxcs. tudc of 11,011 feet above the sea. From the mouth of the canyon, about two miles north, is the little village of Al- pine, containing about 250 agriculturalists. Entering the canyon, the passage is quite narrow between the towering cliffs, which rise up in sharp peaks 600 feet in height, leaving only about 100 feet be- tween, through which the road is built, and a sparkling little stream comes rip- pling down ; the road, on its way up, cross- ing and re-crossing the stream many times. Uur train is rapidly climbing, but the canyon walls seem to be much more rap- idly rising, and at a distance of one, two and three miles, gain an additional 500 feet, until, in places, they are full 2,500 feet above the road bed. In places these cliffs are pillared and castelated granite, in others, of slate, shale and conglomerate, seamed in places as though built up from the bed of the canyon by successive layers, some as thin as a knife blade, others much thicker; then again, the rocks have the appearance of iron slag, or dark colored lava suddenly cooled, presenting to the eye every conceivable angle and fan- tastic shape — a continuous, ever-changing panorama. Imagine, then, this canyon with its grotioes, amphitheatres, and its towering crags, peaks, and needle-pointed rocks, tow- ering/«r above the road, overhanging it in 7 places, with patches of eternal snow in the gloomy gorges near the summit, and clothed at all times in a mantle of green, the pine, spruce and cedar trees growing in all the nooks and gulches and away up on the sum- mit ; then countless mosses and ferns cling- ing to each crevice and seam where a foot- hold can be secured, together with the mil- lions of flowers of every hue ; where the sun's rays are sifted through countless objects on their way to the silvery, sparkling stream below, with its miniature cascades and ed- dies. We say imagine all these things, and then you will only have a faint outline of the wild and romantic, picturesque and glorious American Fork Canyon. Proceeding on up, up, around sharp crags, under the very overhanging moun- tains, we pass " Lion Rock " on the right, and " Telescope Peak " on the left. In the top of the latter is a round aperture, through which the sky beyond can be plainly seen; this hole is called the " Dev- il's Eye." About three miles from the mouth of the canyon, on the left, we come to Hanging Rock. (See illustration page 15.) Close above, on the same side, is a very large spring, and almost immediately opposite "Sled-runner Curve;" — an inverted vein of rock in the side of the perpendicular clifl^", resembling a sled-runner — possibly this is the Devil's sled-runner ; who knows ? Along 98 crofutt's new overland tourist. here the rock seams are badly mixed, and run at all angles— horizontal, lon- gitudinal and "through other." Haif- a-mile farther we come to "Kainbow Cliff," on the right ; opposite, a narrow peak rises sharp, like a knife-blade, 300 ft. ; a little farther on to the right, comes in the South Fork, on which are several saw mills. Keepingto tl e left, and soon after passing the SouthFork a look back down this wonderful canon affords one of the grandest of views; we cannot describe it, but will have it engraved for fiiture volumes. One mile farther, and the train stops at the end of the track, at Deer Creek. — Near this station the hills are bare of trees, but covered with shrubs of different kinds, sage and moss predominating; the gulches and ravines bear stunted pine and aspen trees. The chief businessof this road was in connection with the mines above, among which are the Smelter's Sultana, Wild Dutchman, Treasure, and Pittsburgh. The Miller Smelting Works are four miles farther up and the mines seven. 0])posite the station, in a cosy little nook, is located the Mountain Glen House, where the tourist will find his wants anticii^ated, and plans can be matured for a ramble over the moun- tain peaks ; and there are a number of little tours that can be made from this point each day that will well pay for a week's time devoted to this locality. When returning to the valley, then it is that the view is most grand, and the ride one beyond the powers of man with his be^t goose-quill to de- scribe. Make the tour of the Ameri- can Fork, and our word for it, it will live in pleasant memory while the sun of life descends upon a ripe old age. At American Fork station we again enter the cars on the Utah Southern, and start once more for the south. Rolling along three miles brings our train to DONNER LAKE BOATING PARTY. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 99 F.jREST VIEW — THE FOOT HILLS OF CALIFORNIA. Pleasakt Grove — properly named. In early days it was known as "Battle Creek " — so-called from a fight the early settlers once had here with the Utes. It is a thriving place of 1,000 inhabitants, and like all other Mormon towns, is surrounded with orchards and gardens of fruit, with water flowing through every street. Herds of cattle are now to be seen grazing on the surrounding hills. Eleven miles around, on the rim of the basin, across some sage and some well- cultivated land, our train stops at Provo — TJiis is a regularly incorporated city, with all the requisite municipal offi- cers ; is also the county seat of Utah county, which was first settled in 1849. Provo is 48 miles south of Salt Lake City, at the mouth of Provo Canyon, and on the east bank of Utah Lake, and con- tains an increasing population of 4,000. This place has several fine hotels, chief of which is the Excelsior House. The court-house and public buildings of ihe city are very good, and all kinds of business is represented here. The princi- pal manufactories are the Provo Woolen Mills, tliree flour and three saw mills. Provo River, which is formed by nu- merous small streams, to the eastward, af- fords the best water power of any stream in Utah. The woolen mill is a noted feature of the city; the buildings number four, are built of stone,, four stories high, and cost, complete, ready for business, $210,000. There are in the mill four "mules " with 3,240 spindles, machinery for carding, dyeing and preparing 2,000 pounds of wool per day, and 215 looms, which turn out superior fabrics, in amount exceeding 1200,000 per annum. The Mormons have a very capacious tabernacle, and the Methodists a fine church, and schools are ample. The Brig- ham Young Academy is located here. 100 CKOFUTt's new overland TOUUIST which was amply endowed by presi- dent Brigham Young some years be- fore his death. A regular stage leaves for Pro vo Valley, 20 miles to eastward on the arrival of trains. Utah Lake— is a body of fresh water, 30 miles long and 6 miles wide ; is fed by Provo river, American Fork, Span- ish Fork, Hobble, Salt and Peteetweet creeks, having its outlet through Jor- dan river, which runs north and emp- ties into Great Salt Lake. Utah Lake abounds in trout, mullet and chubs. Passing along through a well culti- vated section of country, for five miles, we arrive at Springville— This place was named from a warni spring which flows from Hobble Canon, above the town. Pop. 1.500. The water from this spring is utilized to run a flouring mill, where- by the mill is enabled to run all sea- sons of the year. So much for a hot spring. In Pleasant Valley, 50 miles east,are located vast beds of coal, said to be of the best coking quality, large quantities of which are used at the various smelting works in Utah, and Butter and clioese are quite a specialty with many of the citizens; on the table- lands vineyards are numerous, and wine is made to some extent; wheat is also a good crop. Duck shooting is said to be exceed- ingly fine, and trout are found in great num- bers in all the mountain streams, as well as in the lake. Continuing on through rich farm land, eight miles brings our train to Payson — This is an incorporated city of about 2,200 po|)ulution, situated to the left of the road, and near the southern end of Utah Lake. The people appear to be well- to-do, and do not trouble themselves much about the " war in Europe," or the " Chi- nese question." Large quantities of ore are hauled here for shipment to the smelt- ing furnaces at Sandy and other places. Three miles further, and two and a half miles eastward, is a beautiful little place called Spring Lake Villa, nestling cosily in beside ihe mountain and a little lakelet of similar name. This villa is noted for its abundant and superior fruit of various kinds, where is located a large canning establishment. Five miles further, tlirough less valuable for domestic puri>oses in Salt Lake j^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^ ^j^^ nofthward, and we City and adjoining towns. In 18*8 the ; ^^^..^.^ ^^ Utah & Pleasant Valley E'y Co. was SANXAQUix-which is a very important " about as- ave west- Here, too, will be found stage for tlie ditlerent mining towns and camps. To Goshen the distance is six miles; Diamond City, 13 miles; Silver City, 16 miles; and Eureka, 21 miles. The Tiutic district furnished at this sta- tion, in 1879, 20,000,000 pounds of hema- tite iron ore for shipment to the different sine", ting furnaces to the northward, for a flux in the manipulation of ores. York — is 75 miles from Salt Lake City, and is a station of very little importance, four miles from Santa- qin. AfeAv miles further, to the right are the Hot Springs in which were found the bodies of the Aiken party who were murdered in 1857. To the south, rises Mount Nebo, with his cap of snow, to an altitude of 12,000 feet. Mono— To the left, is a small ham- let. The Juab Valley commences at York, averages about three miles in with the Colorado system of narrow gauge roads, forming another through linelrom Salt Lake Valley eastward. Grading is being done northward from Springville, parallel with the Utah Southern, to Salt Lake City, and everything that money and mus- cle can do is being done to complete the road in 1883. Hobble Creek Canon, just east ot Springville, was so named by the first Mormons in 1817, who found there a set of old Spanish hobbles. Rolling along for five miles further through a well-cultivated land, wc arrive at Spanish Fork— a village of 1,800 pop- ulat7ion, most of whom are engaged in agricultural and pasioral pursuits. The town is to the left of the road on the banks of the Spanish Fork River. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 101 YO-SEMITE FALLS, 2/i;!4 FEET FALL, YC)-SEMITE VALLEY. width, and is 36 miles in lengfth, gener- ally good land and well cultivated. Nephi — Is a city of 2,000 population, from which stages run regularly to San Pete, 80 miles, and Kanab, 195 miles, passing through many small villages and mining camps. Juab— is an eating station. 30 miles from York. Here a large amount of freight is shipped on wagons for the villages to the eastward, and stages leave regularly for Sipio, 22 miles; Fil- more,4:7 miles, and Corn Ci'eek,GO miles Juab is the end of the Utah South- ern, and the commencement of its Extension. Soon after leaving Juab— named for the county of Juab — we cross Chicken Creek, and in about three miles come to the Sevier Elver, where the hills come close together,forming a canyon The Sevier is a crooked, muddy, sluggish stream, down which the road is built through a worthless country crossing it often for 52 miles, to Des- eret, a station situated a few miles east of the Sevier River, which is here dammed for irrigating purposes. Leaving Deseret — where breakfast is served going north — we pass over a broad, level stretch of desert country, traversed by great numbers of irrigat- ing ditches, from the dam aforesaid, but the waters are so strong and the soil so impregnated with alkali, that the aforesaid wilderness fails to blos- som, except with sage and grease- wood. The road crosses the edge of Sevier Lake, on a raised track, the salt deposits of which are very strong. The scenery alongthis roadjbelow the Sevier canyon, is not veiT striking — unless one is anxious to be struck. MiLFORD — is reached, 69 miles from Deseret and 226 miles south from Salt Lake City. It is on Beaver Elver, pop- ulation about 200, the end of the Utah Southern Eailroad, from which large quantities of freight are shipped for Southern Utah. Stages run to Miners- 102 crofutt's new overland tourist ville, IG miles; Marysville. 16 miles; Beaver, 37 miles; Silver Keef,96 miles; St. Geor.^o, 114 miles, and Pioche, 120 miles. At" Milford is located one quartz mill and one smeltint? furnace. To the westward, IG miles, by a branch rail- road is Frisco— a mining town of about 1 000 population, near the celebrated Horn Silver Mine. The "Frisco mines" are said to be exceedingly rich in silver and lead. The ores are galena, yield- ing from $15 to $1,500 per ton of silver, and from 20 to 40 per centum of lead. Heavy investments of eastern capital have been made in these mines, and vigorous efforts are making to soor work them by the latest and most im- proved methods. The Horn Silver, Carbonate and Mountain Queen are the best known and developed mines. Returning^to Zion we will take a run over the UtJili Western Railroad. This road is a late acquisition of the Union Pacific Railway Co. It is a three foot narrow gauge, commenced in 1874, and was completed 12 miles during the year. In 1875 about 13 miles more were finished, and in 1877 it was ex- tended to within two miles of Stock- ton, 37.5 miles from Salt Lake City. The depot in Salt Lake City is' lo- cated one-half mile Avest of the Utah Central, on the same street. The route is due west, crossing the Jordan River the first mile, about half a mile south of the wagon road bridge, thence 12 miles to the Hot Springs, at the northeast point of the Oquirrh Mountains. This 12 miles is built across the level bottom land, the ma- jor portion of which is covered with sage-brush and greasewood, with an occasional patch of "bunch" and alka- li grasses. The soil in most parts is a black vegetable mold with a mixture of fine sand. Some sand beds are no- ticeable, and near the Hot Springs a deposit of alkali with yellow clay. The length of this land belt is about 50 miles, of which the first 15 will av- erage ten miles wide, the balance av- eraging five miles wide, and extend- ing south to Utah Lake, and when properly irrigated— as we have here- tofore noted, a plan now being car- ried out for so doing— it will be as pro- ductive as the same number of acres in the valley of the famous River Nile, in Egypt. Herds of cattle and sheep now roam over these bottom lands, as well as jack rabbits by the legion. Near the hot springs, on the left, no- ticeable from the amount of steam ris- ing and the brown burned appear- ance of the ground, are some comfort- able little farm-houses, and a few well a]^pearing farms. The hot springs spo- ken of are fresh and produce a large creek of water. Near,are several store houses, and a place called Millstone, from the fact that at this point the first millstones were quarried in the Terri- tory. There are no accommodations, at present, near, for tourists to stop over. Proceeding along, around the side of the mountain, ovir train gradu- ally approaches the lake, and five miles from Millstone we are at Black Rock — This station is just af- ter passing a high rocky cliff on the right, and derives its name from a black-looking rock sitting out in the lake 300 feet distant, and 50 feet high. Near the station is Lion's Head Rock, the highest cliff is known as "Ob- servation Point," so named from the unobstructed view which can bo had from its summit. Antelope, or Church Island, to the northeast,is 14 miles dis- taat,Kimbairs,22 ; Goose Creek Moun- tains, northwest 100; West Mountain, west 15; Oquirrh, close to the south, while the view to the southwest ex- tends to the great rim of the basin, 17 miles distant. On Church Island large herds of cattle range, and some mines of gold, slate, and copper have been discovered. On Carringtonlsland, op- posite BlackRock,a slate mine of good quality has been discovered, which has been traced 4,500 ft. Opposite the station, away up in the side of the mountain, is the "Giant's Cave— an opening extend- ing several hundred ft. into the moun- tain side, with a ceiling ranging in heiqht from 10 to 75 feet, from which hang stalactites of great beauty and In-iliiancv. Remains of some of the an- cient tribes of Indians, it is said, are still to be found scattered around the floor of the cave. The presence of these remains is explained by a tradi- tion among the Indians to the effect that "mnnV hundred yeai's ago, two tribes of Indians were at war with each AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 103 other, and that the weaker j)arty was forced to take refuge in the cave, but were followed by the enemy, who closed the entrance with huge bould- ers, forming an impenetrable barrier to their escape" — and thus their place of refuge became their grave. Leaving Black Rock, our train skirts the lake for a distance of one mile and stops at Garfield. — Of all the bathing places in and about Salt Lake, this is the best. The veteran Cap. Douri's — who by the way has become quite a "land-lubber" — is located here, having dismantled his steamer. Gen. Garfield, and con- verted it into a first-class floating ho- tel. To take a run outfrom SaltLake City, secure a state-room on the Gar- field, sleep on the bosom of the "Dead Sea," and with the "Captain's gig" ex- plore its mysteries, bathe in its won- derful waters, is one of the luxuries that the traveler visiting Utah should never miss. In fact it is worth a long journey to enjoy. Baron von Hum- boldt, in speaking of the marvelous grandeur with which this inland sea abounds, said : "Here is the beauty and grandeur of Como and Killarney combined." Lake Point— is two miles from Gar- field, is another bathing place, where the traveler will find fair accommoda- tions at the "Short Branch Hotel." Black Eock, Garfield, and Lake Point, are in summer great resorts for pic-nic parties from Zion, who come out, take a. trip over the lake, have a swim and a ramble up the mountains, "make a day of it," and return to the city in the evening. Game in the mountains and on the plains, such as deer, antelope, bears and smaller game, are to be had for the necessary effort; ducks are abun- dant six miles to the eastward, and fish, — narvj one. The mountains are about 1,000 feet above the road, have rounded peaks, covered with small trees, in places, sage and grass in others, and large timber in the inaccessible gulches and ravines, near the summit. Leaving the Point, our course is more to the southward, along the side of the lake, by a few well-cultivated farms, irrigated by water fi'om the mountain on the left. Turning more to the left, and draw- ing away from the lake, the road fol- lows along a few miles from the base of the mountains, beside which is located the small Mormon village of "E. T. Ci- ty"— named after E. T. jjensen, one of the early settlers. Four and a half miles from the "Point" comes the Half-WayHouse— near,is a flouring, and woolen mill. On the opposite side of the valley, west, is tlie town of Grantsville, eight miles distant. It lies in one of the richest agricultural sections of the state ; population, 2, 000. In the background is the West Moun- tain Range, which rears its peaks full 2,000 ft. above the town, and in which are located some very rich mines of silver. Beyond these mountains is Skull Yalley — so named for an Indian fight which once occurred there, after which the ground was left covered with bones. Passing on, to the left, note the waterlines on the side of the mountain. Tooele— is six miles from the last, and is the nearest station to the thriv- ing town of Tooele, which is situated to the left about two miles, beside the mountain. The principal business of the citizens is agricvUture and fruit raising. It is considered the best fruit and vegetable districtin the Territory. Tooele is the county seat of Tooele county ;populationabout2, 500. Along the base of the mountain the land is ir- rigated from little springs and creeks in the mountain gorges, the waters of which seldom find their way to the lake below. About 10 miles over the moun- tain, to the southeast, is located Bing- ham Citi^ Leaving Tooele, sage small cedars, bunch-grass and herds of stock abound. The road is on a high plateau, curv- ing with the mountain more to the westward, and some miles below the the lower end of the lake. As we near the lower poi'tion to the great valley, which lays on our right, the land rises, rim-like, and a few hundred yards be- low the end of the track, rises 500 feet, completely locking in the valley by a mountain range or semi-circle ex- tending in a great arcli from Oquirrh Range on the east, to meet the range on the west, one great bend, full five miles in curvature. Here, at the base of this rim, terminates the railroad. 104 CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST. " The Grand " Yellowstone Park On the south side of this rim,wliich, on tlie top, is less than one-half a mile in Avidth, is located the city of Stockton — two miles distant from the end of the railroad. To reach Stockton by rail a 1000-foot tunnel must be drove through this rim, ex- clusive of approaches. Stockton io now reached by stage, which also extends its route to Dry Canyon, and the Ophir mining dis- tricts to the south and west. Dis- tances from Stockton to Ophir, southeast, 10 miles; toDry Can- von, southeast, 12 miles; to Salt Lake City, 39.5 miles. Stockton is in Tooele county, in the northeastcorner of Eush Val- ley, andabout one-half mile east of Rush Lake — a sheet of fresh water two miles long and half mile wide. The town contains* ihree smelting furnaces, several stores, hotels, and about 80 dwell- ings, with a ])opulation — by tak- ing in the surroundings — of GOO. The Waterman Furnace is close in the eastern edge of the town; the Jacob's Smelter about half a mile west, at the head of the lake, and the Chicago Smelter about one mile southwest, on the east- '■rn bank of the lake. The ores '•ome from the several mining districts in the vicinity. Eush Valley is one of the class of "valleys so often found in the Salt Lake and Nevada Basins- only varying in size. This is 10 miles in length and about three iu width— land-locked, surround- (m1 by mountain i-anges, with a 'ake in the center and no visible outlet. New Eailways. — "We should judge from present appearances that all Utah will sooube"riding on a rail," as the "boom" for rail- road building struck the terri- tory in 1881. From the various documents on file Avith the Audi- tor of the Territory, it would seem tliat every canyon and water- course would be paralleled with arail track, and there would hard- ly be a "sheep ranch" without a railway station. It is said the Union Pacific Eailway Com- pany will construct 1000 miles of track at an early day, and that they arc now "throwing dirt" in sev- eral places. July 21, 1881, the Denver and Eio Grande Western Eailway Co. filed on routes aggregating 2,370 miles. This new company is virtually the same as the Denver & Eio Grande of Colorado, and it is designed to con- nect the two lines at an early day. At this time work is being pushed vigor- ously, both from the east and west. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 105 Eeturning to Salt Lake, " change cars" for Ogden, and again we take a look at the Great Overland trains. But we cannot think of neglecting to take a tri^:) over the Utah & BiTortheru Branch tJnion Pacific Railway. (IDAHO DIVISION.) W. B. Doddridge Ogden, Supt. E. Blickensderfer, Pocatello, Idaho, Dio. Supt. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, commenced March 29th, 1872, and extended at difTerent times to Franklin, 78 miles, in 1874. In the spring of 1878 work was again com- menced and the road completed 181 )niles to Blackfoot, on Snake River, ten miles above old Fort Hall, and during the year 1879 to Eeaver Canyon, 93 miles, 274 miles from Ogden. Work has continued since, and the trains are now (Jan., 1883,) fully equipped with palace cars and all modern im- provements, running to Deer Lodge, 442 miles from Ogden. The " Oregon Short Line," noted on page 76, when completed will con- nect with this road at Pocatello, 158 miles north from Ogden. Another branch has been surveyed and will leave this road at Blackfoot and phss through Idaho via the Wood River Mines to Oregon. Trains leave Ogden opposite the Union Depot to the eastward and skirt the western edge of the city, across rich, broad, and well-cultiva- ted fields, orchards and gardens, with the Wasatch Mountains towering to the right. From Ogden depot it is five miles to Haerisville, an unimportant sta- tion, from which it is four miles to Hot Springs, where will be found a large hotel and extensive bathing accommodations. Here is one of the many hot springs which abound in the Great Salt Lake and Nevada basins. In cold Aveather it sends up a dense cloud of vapor, which is visi- ble a long distance. It is strongly impregnated with sulphur and other mineral substances, and the odor arising is very strong, and by no means pleasant for some people to inhale. This spring is close on the right of the road, and besides the steam continually arising from it, is marked by the red-burnt soil, much re- sembling a yard, where hides are tanned. From the cars an occasional glimps of Salt Lake can be obtained, with its nu- merous islands, lifting their peaks far iar above the briny waters. The views will be very imperfect; but as we near Promontory Point, and after leaving that place, excellent views can be obtained. On the left, only a few hundred yards away, can be seen the track of the Cen- tral Pacific — and near, the unimportant station of Bonneville on that road. Near are some fine farming lands, ^vhich yield large crops of wheat, barley and corn. With the rugged mountains on our right and the waters of the lake seen at times on our left, we find objects of interest con-^ tinually rising around us Far up the sides of the mountain, stretching along in one unbroken line, save where it is sun- dered by canyons, gulches, and ravines, is the old water-mai-k of the ancient lake, showing that at one time this lake was a mighty sea, washing the mounta.u sides sev- eral hundred feet above us. The ohl water- line is no creation of the imagination, but a broad bench, whereupon the well-worn rocks, the rounded pebbles, and marine shells still attest the fact that on^^e the wa- teis of the lake washed this broad upland. Beneath the highest and largest bench, at various places, may be seen two others, at about equal distances apart, showing that the waters of the lake have had three dif- ferent altitudes before they reached their present level. We are gradually rising up on to a high bench and will continue along near the base of the mountains for the next thirty miles. In places the view will be giaud. The Great Lake at the southwest wUh its numerous islands in the distance, the well- cultivated fields in the foreground, together with the orchards and rippling rills from the mountain springs, which we cross every few minutes, make a beautiful picture; then back of all, on the cast, rises the Wa- satch, peak upon ])eak, towering to the skies. From the last station it is 15 miles to WiLLARD — Th s is a quiet Mormon town of 700 inhabitants, and contains some fine buildings, but the greater portion are built of logs and adobe, yet neat and cosy. Most of the fences are of small willows inter- woven through large willow stakes stuck in the ground. The mountains near this town present indications which would as. 106 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. ENTERING THE PALISjVDES OF THE HUMBOLDT. sure the " prospector " that they were rich in various minerals. Strong evidences also exist of the great volcanic upheaval which ouce lit up this countrj^ with its lurid tires, most effectualy demolishing many philo- sophical theories, leaving their origina- uators to study nature more and books less. Near the city, in the first range of hills, is the crater of an extinct volcano, which covers several acres. The masses of lava laying around, its bleak, barren, and deso- late appearance would seem to indicate that, comparatively speaking, not many yeais had elapsed since it was in active operation. Leaving Willard, our course is more to the left, with broad fields and some fine dwellings; then a strip of sage and alkali; and seven miles north we reach Brighajm — This is the county seat of Box Elder county, situated near the mouth of Box Elder and Wellsville Canyon. Like Willard, it nestles close under the •shadow of the "Wasatch, and is embowered in fruit trees. Population, 1,800. The buildings are mostly of adobe. A thriving trade and rapidly increasing population attest the importance of the place. The public buildings include a court-house and tabernacle, two hotels, and no saloons. From Brigham our course is more to the left, following around the great arc of the mountains, as well as the old Montana stage road. Call's Foke — is 7 miles from Brig- ham, and is a little collection of houses, close in beside the mountain on the right. All around this mountain base are, at intervals, springs— some are cold and some are very hot-water — well-cultivated fields and alkali beds, little lakes, and sage-brush knolls, rich soil and large crops; then occur barren waste and nary shrub. Two and a half miles further is HoNKYViLLE — Ah! here we have it ! a dozen stone and adobe houses on a sage-brush honey. Bear River and valley is now on the left, as is also the city of CROFUTT S NEW OVKIJJ.AXJ) TOURIST 107 Corinnc, about six miles distant to tlie southwest. "When this road was first built, a track extended to Corinne, which has in later years been taken up and abandoned, the whif! I will never tell you. Deweyville is five miles further, around which, are some good farms and a gristmill. Curving around the point of the mountain and heading for the north, up Bear Valley, the grade increases ; sage is the rule, pines and cedars appear in the mountain gorges, and up we climb. To the west on the opposite side of Bear River, about five miles above the station, is lo- cated a village of Shoshone Indians, about 100 in number. Their tepees — lodges- can be plainly seen. These Indians took up this land in 1874, under the pre-emption laws of the United States, and abandoned their tribal relations. They own some large herds of cattle and bauds of horses, and are very quiet and peaceably disposed. Passing on up a hea\y grade through deep cuts for six miles and we are at Colli N8TOX — formerly Hamptons, a side track station of no importance to the tourist .Just before reaching this station, the road cuts through a spur of the mountain that juts out to the westward into the val- ley, leaving a high, isolated peak. Let us climb this peak and take a look. To the north, six miles the Bear River canyons through a low spur of the Wasatch which reaches away to the northwest. To the west of this spur lies the Malad Valley, and Mai ad River; the latter and the Bear come close together into the valley, imme- diately to the w^est of where we stand ; then flow close together down the valley to the south parallel lor ten miles before they unite, in some places not more than 20 feet apart. To the west of this valley rise the long range of the Malad Mountains, which, commencing near Corinne, runs nearly north to opposite this point, and then bears away to the northwest. Only a small portion of the lands in the Bear or Malad valleys are cultivated ; cattle and sheep are plenty. Leaving Collinston, our road is up a 100 foot grade, curving around to raise the spur of the Wasatch above alluded to, through w^hich Bear River canyons a few miles to the northward. Finally the SuMMiT — is reached and passed four miles from Colliuston and wsome hundreds — were hid in the Canyon amoni; the willows along the Creek, and in the cedars to the right along the bluffs. By a vigorous charge of the troops, the Indians, were completely overcome, and with tc\\ exceptions, none were left alive to tell llu tale. The bones of the dead are still to bu seen near the station. In ascending the Canyon the grade is heavy, deep cuts are numerous, sage bru'-h abounds, and the country is very broken, only adapted to stock raising. About Oxford — in Marsh Valley, eleven miles from Battle Creek, are a few well cultivated farms, and herds of cattle and sheep range around the bluffs. Swan Lake — is the next station, just be- low a small sheet of water of tlial name, in which sport, at certain seasons of the year, numbers of swans. The Malad Mountains border the valley on the west, beyond which is Malad Valley and river of same name, also Malad City, 20 miles distant. Pass on down the valley, north 21 miles, we come to Akimo— a small town of perhaps fifty people. The famous Soda Springs of Idaho, are 30 miles east of this station, where are ample hotel accommodations for tourists, but the facilities for reaching them are limited, as there is no regular stage line; livery team must be procured at Arimo LeavingArimo alow cutin the mount ains about five miles distant to the north- east, marks the passage of Port Neuf River through Port Neuf Gap. The old stage road is on our right, along the base of the mountain. After crossing a number of small creeks, and 9 miles from Arimo come to Belle Marsh, on Port Neuf River, down wliich wo go 3G miles. Along this river are many peculiar rock formations. In places the rocks rise like a solid wall, from 20 to 100 feet from the ground in a line of uniform height for miles in extent, resembling huge fortifica- tions. In several places along the road there are two and sometimes three of these walls running parallell with each other. Proceeding down the river we come to "Robbers'^Roost" on the right, about four miles bei'ore reaching the next station. It is the point where the Montana stage rob- bery was committed in 1864 EAGLE GATE. Port Neuf — once known as Black Rock, so named for the ridge of slate rock to be seen just east of the station. It is 12 miles tK) Pocatello and ten to Ross Fork. — This is a small station on lift river of the same name. The lands are mostly covered with sage brush, very rich, and with irrigation, water for which is abundant — could be made very produc- tive. Stock raising is about the only occu- pation the few settlers are engaged in. Game of all kinds abounds in the val- leys and in the mountains, while along the water courses, wild geese and ducks are legion. The streams, little and big, are full of fish, notably the trout, which are very abundant and bite with a snap that makes an old sportsman feel happy. Fruit, apples, peaches, pears, cherries, plums, currants, and, in fact, all kinds of fruit are raised by the Mormons, in this and adjacent valleys in great abundance. Although we are now in Idaho Territory, we shall speak of the chief towns and the routes to them in an other place. The direction of our road from this point is north; about three miles brings us to PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. Ill Blackfoot— named fox' the Black- foot Indians. It is situated on a broad, sase-covered plain, one mile north of Blackfoot Kiver, and two miles southeast from Snake Eiver, which is here marked by a dense growth of trees and willows. The place has about 2U0 population and some good stores and other buildings. Trains stop thirty minutes for meals —breakfast and supper. Stages leave Blackfoot for Challis daily— distance 70 miles northwest, for old Ft. Hall, 10 miles west ; new Ft. Hall, 8 miles east. EivEESiDE— is a side-track station on the bank of the Snake, 12 miles north from Blackfoot and 13 miles south of Eagle Rock — known by old-time pilgrims as Taylor's Bridge, at the crossing of Snake River. See illustra- tion opposite: both railroad and wagon bridge are shown, the old and the new. At Eagle Rock is located a railroad round-house and repair shops, sever- al stores, hotels, and a few comfort- able private dwellings of stockmen Avho make this place their headquar- ters. 1 Crossing the river, just below the old bridge, 18 miles, brings us to Market Lane station^unimportant except as a shipping point for stock — .cattle and sheep. I The whole country, now, has a vol- Icanic appearance— valueless for agri- 'cultural pur])Oses— but, in and along the base of the mountains, on each side from five to ten miles distant, the grasses are very good, and all kinds of stock do well. The " Three Tetons " are to be seen to the east- ward. They overlook the Yellow- stone National Park. Lava Siding— a small station, comes next in 10 miles, from which it is 11 miles to Camas. — Freight in large quantities is shipped on wagons from Camas to jChallis— 60 miles west— and to the iSalraon River mines to the northwest |— 130 miles. Stages also leave daily for Salmon City. Camas is the near- icst point on the railroad to the Yel- jlowstone National Park. A wagon .road has been completed and stages put on the route. The distances are estimated by Col. Norris, Superin- tendent of the National Park, to be: — Camas to Henryis Lake, 60 miles ; Henry's Lake to Junction, 25 miles; Junction to Mammoth Hot Springs, 45 miles — making 130 miles— which in- cludes quite a tour of the Park, en route. (See Annex No. 20.) Rolling on through sage brush and barren wastes of volcanic deposites, w^e pass Dry Creek in 12 miles, and 17 miles mox'e jeach Beaver Canon station— 274: miles north of Ogden. Passenger trains from the north and south meet here for dinner. The road for 12 miles up Beaver Canon to MoNiDA — is built through some beautiful scenery— to the summit of the Rocky Mountain Range, altitude 6,869 feet— and is the first railroad to cross the "Rockies" from the westward The station of Monida is named for the two territories on the line between which it is located— Mon-ida, Monta- na, Idaho. The "Continental Divide," marked by a sign-board on the west side of the track, is just south of the station buildings. From Monida the descent is gradual down a little valley, a kind of natural road-way, with magnificent snow- capped mountain scenery in the dis- tance, and on all sides, herds of cattle, sheep and varieties of game. Williams— a small station, is 11 miles, and six more to Spring Hill— A small imimportant station, situated in the southern por- tion of Red Rock Valley. This valley is nearly fifty miles in length, fol- lowed by our railroad the entire dis- tance, and also by the river of the same name. The valley is dotted at intervals with comfortable farm houses, many herds of cattle and sheep, varieties of game, and some well fenced and cultivated lands. Bordering the valley on the east are high rolling, grass covered bluffs, with some timber in the higher ra- vines, while on the west, extend as far as the eye can see the Continental Divide, rising from the valley, the lower portions timber-clad, peak up- on peak, to the region of perpetual snow, where their white heads stand forth as veterans of their kind, indicating age at least, if not respect- ability. » 112 crofutt's new overland tourist Ked Rock Station — Is reached after passing several small side-tracks twenty-three miles north from Spring Hill. About midway be- tween these two stations is the some- Avhat noted Red Rock, from whicli the valley, river and station derives its name. This rock' is a bold cliff, probably five hundred feet in height and half a mile long, projecting out into the valley from the eastward— of a bright red color, and can be seen for a distance, up and down the val- ley, for over twenty miles each way. The old wagon road follows this val- ley for the entire length, and this Rock was a well-known land mark for the "Pilgrims "in early days. . Grayling— Is a small station eleven miles from Red Rock Station, near the mouth of Beaver Head River, which comes in from the westward. Rolling down Ryan's Canon we come to a sign, "Soda Springs," on the right, near a small house. By looking up we discover a large stream of water i^ouring over the canon walls, which is here 200 feet in height. As our train stopped at a tank near by for water we commissioned our Pullman porter, a very accomodating boy by the way, although his name was Vinegar, to fill a flask. It Avas about blood-heat, butnot very strong with mineral. About eight miles from Greyling we come to Beaver Head Rock, at the gateway or mouth of the Canon, which here opens out into the Beaver Head Valley. This valley is nearly round, about twenty miles in diameter, in the centre of which, eight miles from Beaver Head Rock, is situated the new town of Dillon— Named for the President of the Union Pacific Railway. This is a busy place. Passenger trains going north stop for supper, and those for the south breakfast. Pres- ent population, about 500, but increas- ing rapidly. Large amounts of freight are shipped from this Station on wagons for the cities, towns, and mining camps to the eastward. The "Corinne" and "Valley" are the two principal hotels. Stages leave here daily on arrival of trains for the following i^laces : Salisbury, ^5 miles, fare, $8; Virginia City, GO miles, fare, $12 ; Helena, 120 miles, fare $24 ; Boze- inan, llO miles, fare, $24. The valley of the Beaver Head is nearly round, and not far from twen- ty miles in diameter, about one- fourth of which is under cultivation, producing good crops of small grains and vegetables ; the balance is occupied by stock raisers, some of whom have "large herds of cattle and sheep. The mountains on the west are high, many of the most elevated l>eaks covered with snow. This range is a continuation of the Continental Divide— heretofore noticed. Ten miles from Dillon the Railroad bears away more to the northwest. We pass several small stations while rolling along down a beautiful little valley for 31 miles to Melrose— This is a small place of several hundred population, situated on the Big Hole or Windom River, which comes down from the west. The town was named for Miss Melrose, daughter of Mrs. Blow, who keeps at this' place one of the best hotels in Montana, and, by the way, the Madam has an extraordinary history in con- nection with the hostile Indians who infested this country many years ago, one worthy to rank with the most heroic deeds of bravery record- ed of mothers in the annals of fron- tier life in this country, but we have not the space to record it. Bntte.— The first of the year, 1882, this was the "end of the track," but it is very hard for a guide-book to tell just where the terminus of any west- ern road will be next month, next week, or even to-morrow. Yes, and it is difficult for one to keep up with the older portions of our trans Miss- ouri country as everybody appears to be running a foot race to settle upon and gather up the numberless good things that are laying about all over this fair land. The new town of Butte is surround- ed by rich mineral ])rospeots, with a bright out-look for the future. Stages leave here daily for Boulder, 37 miles, fare $4.50; Jefferson, 50 miles, fare $6.00; Helena, 72 miles, fare $8.00; New Chicago, 76 miles, fare $9.50; Missoula, 132 miles, fare $15. Montana Territory— For many years was considered solely as a min- ing country, but there was never a greater mistake. That it does con- PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 113 tain mines, of all kinds, in great numbers, rich, and inexhausti- ble is well known, but the agri- cultural and stock raising re- sources are immense. At one time it possessed excellent "pla- cer" mines and "gold diggings," but they have been to a great extent, worked out. Yet there are still some camps where good 2)a y is being taken out, and many of the "old diggings" are being- worked over by the "heathen Chinee," and with good results. The mining is now mostly con- fined to quartz, some of which are of extraordinary richness. No section of our country at the pi'esent time offers greater inducements to the immigfi'aut and capitalist than Montana. Its population by the late cen- sus was 39,157, but the comple- tion of the railway to the heaxt of the territory, the low rates of transportation, quick transit, both passengers and freight, as compared with wagons and stage, will promote and assure rapid development. Aside from the mining advantages the val- leys of the Missouri, Madison, Gallatin, Yellowstone, and many other rivers, possess the very best of farming and grazinr;- lands in quantities sufficient to support millions of industrious people. Labor of all kinds is in de- mand, and the wages paid are double the amount, for the same services, current in the east. Game, of all kinds is abundant all over the territory, and for scenery, the equal of Montana is yet to he discovered. For arti- cles on the Yellowstone National Park, see Annex Nos. 26, 35, 3G, and illustrations on pages 21, 101, 113,146, and the large double page plate of Yellowstone Falls, No. 8. Guides and all equipage ne- cessary to a thorough enjoyment of the trip to the Park can be procured at Virginia City, or in Lower Geyser Basin. Fare from A^irginia City to Lower Geyser Basin, $20. Parties of ten or more will be carried GIANTESS GEYSER IN ERtTPTION. from Virginia City to Lower Geyser Basin and return for $30 each. Again returning to Ogden, we take up the Overland Boute. 114 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. HON. LELAND STANFORD. Ex-Governor Lei and Stanford, President of the Central Pacific Railroad of Califor- nia, was born in the town of Watervliet, Albany county, N. Y., March 9, 1824. His ancestors were English, who settled in the Valley of the Mohawk about the beginning of the last century. Josiali Stanford, father of Leland, was a farmer and promi- nent citizen of the county, whose family consisted of seven sons — Leland being the fourth — and one daughter. Until the age of twenty, Leland's time was passed at study and on the farm. He tlien com- menced the study of law, and in 1845 en- tered the law office of Wheaten, Doolittle «fe Hudley, in Albany, N. Y. In 1849 he moved West, and commenced the practice of law at Port Washington, Wisconsin. Here, in June, 1850, he was married to Miss Jane Lathrop. In 1852, we find him following many of his friends to the new El Dorado. He landed in California July 12, 1852, proceeded directly to the mines, and settled at Michigan Bluffs, on the American River, Placer county, and in a few years he had not only realized a for- tune, but so far won the confidence of the people as to secure the nomination for State Treasurer, in 1859, on the Republican ticket. At this time the Democratic parly had never been beaten, and the canvass was made on principle. He was defeated ; but in 1861 — asplit^up in the ranks of the dominant party having taken place — he was nominated for Governor, and elected by a plurality of 23,000 votes. How he per- formed the trust, is well known. Suffice it to say, he received the thanks of the Leg- islature and won the approval of all classes. Governor Stanford early moved in the in- terest of the Pacific Railroad ; and on the 22d of February, 1863, while Sacramento was still staggering under the devastat- ing flood, and all was gloomy in the fu- ture, with the whole country rent by civil war, he — all hope, all life and energy — AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 115 shoveled the first earth, and May 10, 1869, drove the last spike at Promon- tory, Utah, which completed the first Great Pacific Kailroad across the American continent. Central Pacific Railroad, Official headquarters, corner Fourth and Town- , send Streets, San Francisco, Cal, Leland Stanford . . . President. . . San Francisco. C. P. Huntington Vice-Prest New York. Chas. Crocker Vice-Prest. .San Francisco. E. W. Hopkins Treasurer . . " E. H. Miller, Jk Secretary . . " A.N. TowNE Gen'l Mg'r. " J. A. Fillmore Gen'l Supt. " B. H. Pbatt Ass't Supt.. " T.H.Goodman G.P.d^T.A. K. A. Donaldson Assistant . . " J. C. Stdbbs F. T. Mg'r. " Richard Grey G.F.A " S. S. Montague Chief Engr. " Land Com'r " "W.H.Porter Auditor _ " O. C. Wheeler Gen'l B.Agt F. Knowland, Ge.n''l Eastern Ag't, 287 B'way N. T. M. T. Dennis, Gen'l Eastern Ag't for Neir Enr/-, Boston, Mass As most of the people who read this book, we conclude, are familiar with the history of the building of the Pa- cific E. R., and as we have, for 13 years past, published a condensed account of it— the trials, struggles and final tri- umph of the enterprise — it must suf- fice for this time to give a few facts and figures, and then pass on to our review of the cities, towns and objects of in- terest along the road and in the coun- try adjacent. The first survey was for the Centi'al, over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, by Theo. D. Judah, in the Summer of 18(30, followed in 1861 by a more thorough one, when a passage was discovered and declared feasible. In 18G2 Congress granted the Pacific railroad charter, and the first ground was broken for it by the Central, at Sacramento, Cal., Feb. 22, 1863, two years and eight months before ground was broken for the Union, at Omaha, THE WAY WE ONCE WENT TO VIRGINIA CITY. 116 crofutt's new overland tourist Neb, The following' will show the num- ber of miles completed by the Central during each year : In 1863-4-5, 20 miles each year; iii ISCfi, 30 miles; in 1867, 4G miles; in 1868, 364 miles; in 1869, 190i miles, making 690^ miles from Sacra- mento to Promontory, where the roads met, May 10, 1869. The whole length of the Pacific rail- road proper, from Omaha to Sacra- mento, is l,776i miles, of which the Union built 1,085 and the Central 6904 miles. By a subsequent arrangement, the Union relinquished 53 miles to the Central, and in '69 the latter purchased the whole of the Western Pacific, from San Francisco to Sacramento, 137i miles in length, which gave the Central Pacific 882 miles of road, from Ogden to San Francisco, and made the en- tire line from Omaha to San Francis- co 1,914 miles. " All aboard," is now the order, and our train glides northward through the western suburbs of Ogden, cross- ing broad bottom lands, largely under cultivation. The Weber Eiver is on the left, the longhigh range of the Wa- satch Mountains on the right. Within a few miles the Ogden River is cross- ed, and also many irrigating canals. The track of the Utah & Northern is on the right, andAvill be for the next 24 miles, near the foot of the mountains ; and as the towns and objects of note "were described on the trip over that road they will be ]mssedin this place. Bonneville— is the first that we pass on the Central. It is 9.9 miles from Ogden, near Willard, in the midst of good farming land, which yields large crops of wheat, barley and corn. Brighani— comes next, 7:14 miles further. The town is to the eastward, near the base of the mountains, here- tofore described under the head of the Utah & Northern. Passing Brigham, the road inclines to the left, west, and crosses Bear Eiver on a trestle bridge 1,200 feet long, the piles of which were driven in water 18 feet deep ; and half a mile further, and 7.14 miles from Brigham, we stop at Colorado was first visited by white men — Spaniards— in 1 540. Explored by Z. M. Pike, who gave his name to Pike's Peak, in 1806 ; by Col. S. H. Long in 1820, who named Long's Peak ; by Gen. Fremont in 184."! ; by Gov. Wm. Giipin in 1840, who has traversed the country more or less until the present time. Corinne — This city is not as prosper- ous in its mercantile and forwarding busi- ness as it was several years ago, owing principally to the fact that the Utah North- ern has been extended north too fai-; and then the taking up of the branch track from the city has entirely cut off the freighting business to Montana and the northern settlements, that formerly went from this place. However, the citizens are by no means blue, but have built a canal from a point 11 miles to the northward, and now conduct the waters of the Malad River down to the city, and not only use it for irrigating thousands of acres of land, but for city and manufiicturing purposes, chief of which is a flouring mill which produces about four tons of flour a day. Corinne has three churches, a good school, several hotels, and a weekly newspai)er, the Record. Many of the citizens have embarked in the stock-raising business, and are doing well ; the range to the northward is very good. Around the town are many thou- sand acres of land, which only require irrigation and culture to render them pro- ductive in tlie highest degree. Again Westward! The farming lands gradually give way to alkali beds — white, barren, and glittering in the sun. Now the road curves along the bank of the lake, crossing the low flats on a bed raised several feet above the salt deposits. The channel along the road, caused by excava- tion, is filled with a reddish, cold-looking water. Taste it at the first opportunity, and you will wish that the first opportu- nity had never oftered. f^aarry — is 7.64 miles further west, beiug aside-track where trains seldom stop, but skirt along the base of the mountains with the lake and broad alkali bottoms on the left. The cars pass over several long and high embankments, and reach the high broken laud again at Bine Creek— which is 11.96 miles from Quarry. During the construction of the road, this was one of the hardest " Camps " along the whole line. Leaving the station, we cross Blue Creek on a trestle bridge 300 feet long and 30 feet high. Thence by tortuous curves we wind around the heads of several little valleys, crossing them well against the hillside by heavy fills. The track along here has been changed, avoiding several long tres- tle bridges, and running on a solid em- bankment. crofutt's new overlaxd tourist 117 Through more deep rock cuts we wind around Promontory Mountain until the lake is lost to view. Up, up we go, the engine pufSng and snorting with its ardu- ous labors, until the summit is gained, and we arrive at the former terminus of the two Pacific railroads— 8.93 miles from Blue Creek. Promontory — elevation, 4,905 feet; distance from Omaha 1,084 miles; from San Francisco 830 miles — is celebrated for being the point where the connection be- tween the two roads was made on the 10th of May, 1869. This town, formerly very lively, is now almost entirely deserted. The supply of water is obtained from a spring about four miles south of the road, in one of the gulches of Promontory 3Iountain. The bench on which the station stands would doubtless produce vegetables or grain, if it could be irrigated, for the sandy soil is largely mixed with loam, and the bunch grass and sage-brush grow lux- uriantly. The liRst Spike— On Mondny, the lOth day of May. 1869, a large paity was congregated on Promontory Point, Utah Territory, gathered from the four quarters of the Union, and, we might say, from the four quarters of the earth. There were men from the pine-clad hills of Maine, the rock-bound coast of Massachusetts, the everglades of Florida, the golden shores of tlie Pacific slope, from China, Europe, and the wilds of the American continent. There were the lines of blue- clad bovs, witli their burnished muskets and glistening bayonets, and over all, in the bright May sun, floated the glorious old stars and stripes, an emblem of unity, power and prosperity. They are grave, earnest men, most of them, who are gath- ered here; men who would not leave their homes and business and traverse half or two-thirds of the continent only on the most urgent necessity, or on an occasion of great national importance, such as they might never hope to behold again. It was I to witness such an event, to be present at 118 CKOFUTt's new overland TOUPaST AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 119 the consummation of one of the grandest of modern enterprises, that they had gath- ered here. Tliey were liere to do honor to the occasion when 1,774 miles of rail- road should be united, binding in one un- broken chain the East and the West. (Sacramento at that time was the western tei minus.) To witness this grand event — to be par- takers in the glorious act — this assemblage had convened. All around was excite- ment and bustle that morning ; men hurry- ing to and fro, grasping their neighbors' hands in hearty greeting, as they paused to ask or answer hurried questions. This is the day of final triumph of the friends of the road over their croaking opponents, for long ere the sun shall kiss the weslern summits of the gray old monarchs of the desert, the work will be accomplished, the assemblage dispersed, and quiet reign once more, broken only by the hoarse scream of the locomotive; and when the lengthening mountain shadows shall sweep across the plain, flecked and mot- tled with the departing sunbeams, they will fall on the iron rails which will stretch away in one unbroken line from the Sacramento to the Missouri River. The hours passed slowly on until the sun rode high in the zenith, his glittering rays ftilling directly down upon the vacant place between the two roads, which was waiting to receive the last tie and rails which would unite them forever. On either road stood long lines of cars, the impatient locomotives occasionally snort- ing out their cheering notes, as though they understood what was goingou, andrejoiced in common with the excited assemblage. To give effect to the proceedings, ar- rangements had been made by which the large cities of the Union should be notified of the exact minute and second when the road should be finished. Telegraphic communications were organized with the principal cities of the East and West, and at the designated hour the lines were put in connection, and all other business sus- pended. In San Francisco the wires were connected with the fire-alarm in the tower, where the ponderous bell could spread the news over the city the instant the event occured. Baltimore, Philadelphia, Bos- ton, New York, Cincinnati, and Chicago were waiting for the moment to arrive when the chained lightning should be loosed, carrying the news of a great civil victory over the length and breadth of the land. The hour and minute designated ar- rived, and Leland Stanford, President, as- sisted by other oflicers of the Central Pa- cific, tame forward ; T. C. Durant, Vice- President of the Union Pacific, assisted by General Dodge and others of the same company, met them at the end of the rail, whei e they reverently paused, while Rev. Dr. Todd, of JNIass., invoked the Divine blessing. Then the last tie, a beautiful piece of Avorkmanship, of California laurel, with silver plates on Avliich were suitable inscriptions, was put in place, and the last connecting rails were laid by parties from each company. The last spikes were then presented, one of gold from California, one of silver from Nevada, and one of gold, silver and iron from Arizona. President Stanford then took the hammer, made of solid silver — and to the hantlle of which were attached the telegraph wires — and with the first taj) on the head of the gold spike at 12, m , the news of the event was flashed over the continent. Speeches were made as each spike was driven, and when all was completed, cheer al ter cheer rent the air from the enthusiastic assemblage, Then the Jupiter, a locomotive of the C. P. R. R. Co., and locomotive No. 116, of the U. P. R. R. Co., approached from each way, meeting on the dividing line, where they rubbed their brown noses together, while shaking hands, as illustrated. To say that wine flowed freely would convey but a faint idea of the good feeling manifested and the provision made by each company for the entertainment of their guests, and the celebration of the event. Immediately on the completion of the work, a charge was made on the lust tie (not the silver-plated, gold-spiked laurel, for that had been removed and a pine tie substituted) by relic hunters, and soon it was cut and hacked to pieces, and the fragments carried away as trophies or me- mentoes of the great event. Even one of the last rails laid in place was cut and battered so badly that it was removed and another substituted. Weeks after the event we passed the place again, and found an enthu- siastic person cutFing a piece out of the last tie laid. He was proud of his treasure — that little chip of pine — for it was a jjiece of the last tie. We did not tell him that three or four ties liad been placed there since the first was cut in pieces. 120 CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND. PACIFIC COAST GUIDK. 121 In the cars belonging to each line, a sumptuous repast was served up to the in- vited guests. Then, as the sun sank low- to the western summit of Promontory- Point, the trains moved away with parting salutes from locomotives, and the celebration was ended, the i)artici- pants speeding away to their far dis- tant homes, and so closed the eventful day on Promontory Point. For Sketch of Great Salt Lake, see Anxex No. 21. For Iludaut's Survey of route to Oregon, see Aknex No. 28. We now resume our westward journey from Promontory. Four miles west (near a gravel track on the north side) can be seen close to the road, on the south side, a sign-board, which reads, "TEN MILES OF TRACK IN ONE DVT." Agaiu, on the same side, ten miles fur- ther west, another widi the same inscrip- tion will appear. These boards, mark the track which was laid by the track layers of the Central Pacific company in one da;/, under the immediate charge of J. H. Strowbridge, Superintendent of Construc- tion, H. H. Minkler, track layer, andjames Campbell, Superintendent of Division. This uudoubtedl}' is the most extra' irdinary feat of the kind ever accomplished in this or any other country. Why ir was done — During the build- ing of the road, a great rivalry existed be- tween the two companies as to which could lay the most track in one day. This ri- valry commenced early in the year 1868. The " Union " laying six miles; soon after the "Central " laid seven miles, and then again the " Union " seven and a half miles. The " Central " men, not to be outdone, ao- nounceu that they could lay ten miles in adav. Mr. Durant, Vice-President of the ''Union" offered to bet $10,000 that it couldnotbe done, and the "Central" resolved it should be done. Conse- quently, on tlie 29th of xlpril, 1809, when only fourteen miles of track remained to be laid to meet the "Union" at Pro- montory Point, andinthe presence of Gov. Stanford and many prominent men from the East and West, and a committee from the "Union" to note tb'^ proQrfss. the work commenced. How IT WAS DONE — -When the car loaded with rails came to the end of the track, the two outer rails on eltlier side were seized with iron nippers, hauled for- ward off the car, and laid on the lies by four men who attended exclusively to this. Over these rails the car was pushed forward, and the process repeated. Behind these men came a gang of men who half-drove the spikes and screwed on the fish-plates. At a short interval behind these came a gang of Chinamen, who drove home the spikes already inserted and added the rest. Be- hind these came a second squad of China- men, two deep on each side of the track. The inner men had shovels, the outer ones jncks. Together, they ballasted the track. The average rate of speed at which all these processes were carried on was one minute and 47^2 seconds to every 240 feet of track laid down. Material, Required — Those unac- quainted with the enormous amount of ma- lerial required to build ten miles of rail- road can learn something from the follow- ing figures: It requires 25,800 cross ties, 8,5'20 iron rails, 55,000 spikes, 7,040 fish- plates, and 14,080 bolts, the whole weigh- ing 4,o6-2,000 lbs. This material is required for a single track, exclusive of" mrnouts." To bring 1 his material forward and place it in position, over 4,000 men, and hun- dreds of cars and wagons were employed. The discipline acquired in the four years s nee the commencement of the road en- abled the force to begin at the usual time in the morning, calm and unexcited, and march steadily on to "Victory," as the place where they rested at 1 :30 p. m. was called, having laid eight miles of track in six hours. Here tins great ' Central " army must bo fed, but Campbell was equal to the requirements. The camp and water train was brought up at the proper moment, and the whole force took dinner, including many distinguished guests. After the ''hour nooning,"" the army was again on the march, and at precisely 7 r. M. 10 miles and 200 feet had been complet d. When this was done, the " Union " Com- mittee expressed tlieir satisfaction and re- turned to their camp, and Campbell sprang upon the engine and ran it over the ten miles of track in forty minut(s, thus dem- onstrating tuat the work was icill done. Soon after leaving Promontory, the grade of the road descends, and 7.93 miles we reach Rosel — situated almost on the edge of Salt Lake. It is an unimportant station, where passenger trains never stop, unless signaled. A few miles further, and we pass the sign-board where commenced the 12: enOFUTT S NEW OVEKLAXD TOURIST work of laying the "ten miles of track in one day." Continuing along on the lake shore, with large bluff on the right, for 9.49 miles further, we pass Lake — another side-track, and 6.98 miles more arrive at Moiiniuent — Here, many times, the lake breeze sweeps hy, bearing tlie heavy alkaline and saline odors jjeculiar to this locality, and peculiarly offensive to inva- lids. Monument Point, a slim, tapering promontory, stretches far out into the lake, covered with excellent grass. We shall not see much more of the article for some time to come, foi- we are now on Avhat might well be calkd the American Desert. Leav- ing Monument, it is 7.34 miles to JSeco — another side-track of no account, as all is sage-brush. Descending a heavy grade, we sweep around the head of the western arm of the lake, nearing and leav- ing its waters for the last time. Another run of 7.1 miles brings us to M.el i oil— or Indian Creek, as it is some- limes called. This is a station of more im- portance than any yet passed since leaving Promontory. There are large watc -tanks by the ':'(iad-side, supplied from a spring in the foot-hills some miles to the north- ward. Here the Rail road Co. li 1 1 their water- cars — a train of which run daily to supply many of the.stations on this division of the road. The Red Dome Mountains show their scattered spurs to the north, and to the southeast Pilot Knob or Peak can be seen lifting its rocky front far above the desert. From this station a daily line of coaches leaves for Idaho and Oregon, on arrival of the cars. The route passes through Idaho and the eastern part of Oregon, connecting with the steamers of the Oregon Steam Navigation Company at Umatilla, on the Columbia River — through to Boise in two days; Walla Walla in lour days; Portland in five and a half days. The Boise CorxTny, to v/liich the line of stages spoken of conveys the adventurous passengers, lies in the southeastern portion o. Idado Territory, bordering on Oregon. Extensive mines of gold have been woiked th^r f'^' years, and still continue to attract ma .ttention, as rich mines of gold-bear- ing q • have been di.scovered and worked since th : placer mines have been parlially exhaustL'd. The principal mining country i i that portion generally designated as the ^oise Basin, which comprises a scope of country about 150 miles north and south. by a length of about 200 miles. The Boise mines lie north of the Suake or Shoshone River. The principal streams in the mining section are Boise River, Fayette River, Wind Crtek, IVIoore's Creek and Salmon River. The Owyhee mines lie south of the Snake River and War Eagle Mountains. This poition of the mining belt of Idaho is not as extensive as the one just mentioned. The ores are mostlj^ silver. Boise City— i.s the capital of the Ter- ritory and county seat of Ada county. Population G,000. The town site Avas laid out in 1863, and now contains about 700 buildings, mostly brick and stone. The town is situated in a fine agricultural valley, about two miles wide by 50 long. It is the center of several stage routes, and also of trade for a large section of country. The Stutes- via)), a tri-weekly paper, is published here. Id.vho — is the second city in size in the Territory, population about 2,500. It lies 36 miles northeast of Boise City, with which it is connected with stage, and also with Umatilla, Oregon. The Wo/id, newspaper, is published here — semi-weekly. Silver City — contains about 2,000 inhab- itants. The buildings are mostly granite. The Avahoiche, a weekly paper, rej^resents the interests of the town. We now return to the railroa,d, and 11.43 miles further, arrive at Oinbey — Passenger trains seldom stop here, but roll on 9.87 miles further, to natlin — This station is on the high- land, which sweeps out tiom the Red Dome Mountains. Here these mountains — low sandstone ridges — are nearer the track, breaking the monotony of the scene. The road lies on the northern border of a vast waste whereon we see few signs of verdure. The station is miilway from east to west of the American Desert — which extends over an area of 60 square miles. Over this vast extent the eve wanders in vain for some green object— some evi- dence that in times gone by this waste su]iported animal life, or will eventually in years to come. All is desolate in the extreme; the b^re beds of alkali, or wastes of gray sand only meet the vision, if we except' now and then a rocky hill more barren than the plains, if such things were possible. Evidently this desert was once the bed of a saline lake, perhajis a portion of the Great Salt Lake itself The bloping plain sweei s off towards that AND I'ACIFIO COAST GUIDE. 123 body of water, and in places bends down until its thirsty sands are laved by the briny flood. There are many evidences in suppoit of the theory that it was once covered by those waters, although much higher than the present level of the lake. The saline matter is plainly discernible in many places, and along the red sandstone buttes which mark its northern border. The long line of water-wash, so distinctly seen at Ogden, and other points along the lake shore, c;iu be distinctly traced, and apparently on the same level as the bench at those places. The difi"erence in the alti- tude of the road is plainly indicated by this line, for as we journey westward, and the elevation of the plateau increases, we find that the water-wash line blends with the rising ground and is seen no more. Matliii is an unimportant station, 10.78 miles from Terrace— Here the railroad company have erected work-shops and a 10-siali round-house. To the northward the hills which mark the entrance to the Thousand Spring Valley are plainly seen; they are brown, bare and uninviting as the country we are passing through. Some mines are reported near, but have not j^'t been de- veloped. From Terrace it is 10.54 miles to Bovine — Here there is little of interest to note, the face of the country remaining about the same, thoagh gradually improv- ing. Spots of bunch-grass appear at inter- vals, and the sage-brush seems to have taken a new lease of life, indicating a more congenial soil. Continuing on 10.85 miles further we reach ¥. , the other following nearly Uie line of railroad until it reaches the Humboldt via, Humb.. kit Wells. Goose or Hot Spring Creek, a small stream which courses through ihe valley its entire length, sinks near by the station, rising and sinking at intervals, until it is lost in the desert. Before reaching the next station we leave Utah and enter the State of Nevada. Passing over 11.75 miles of up-grade, our train arrives at Tecoma — In 1874 quite an excitement was created among the mining operators by the discovery of rich silver and lead mines, situated about five miles south of Ibis station in the Toano range of moun tains. A new town was laid out at the mines — called Buel. A smelting furnace was erected at the mines and a run of 200 tons of bullion produced, valued at $360,- UOO, which was shipped to San Francisco on one train, creating no small excitement on California street. Indications of coal mines have been found in the vicinity, but no systematic eftbrt has yet been made to develop them. Stock-raising is now the principal busi- ness of this country. To the northward of this station, and in fact for the last two stations, large herds of cattle can be seen, and at the stations, pens and shutes for shipping. Pilot Peak, a noted landmark Avhich has been visible for the past fifty miles, lies almost due south of this station— dis- tance 36 miles. It is a lofty pile of rocks — the eastern terminus of Pilot Mountains — rising about 2,500 feet al)Ove the barren sands. " For about half-way from the liase to the summit the sides are shelving piles of shattered lock — huge masses crushed to atoms. Above that it rises perpendicularly the summit looking like some old castle when seen at a distance. From Promontory Point looking westward, this vast pile can be seen on a clear day— a dark mass amid the bluehaze which boundsthe western horizon. To the emigrant, in early days, before the railroad,itwas a welcome landmark, point- inghis course to Humboldt Wells or Thou- sand Spring Valley, where he was sure to find water and teed for his weary teams, af er crossing the barren waste. From Tecoma it is 9.50 miles up-grade to Montello— elevation 4,999 feet. The general aspect of the country is changing with the increasing elevation. We ap- proach nearer the long, rough ridge of the I Goose Creek Range, the sides and gulches. 124 CKOFUTT S NEW OYKKLAND TOURIST of wliicli afford pasturage aud water at intervals. We are leaving the barren sands behind us, and the country looks more capable of supporting animal life. Continuing the up-grade — over 550 feet •within the next 9.0 miles — we arrive at liOray — a station of little importance to the traveler. From Ijoray, up we go for 7.1 miles further to Toano — until recently the end of the division. The company have here er cted work- shops and a 14-stall round-house. Toano is centrally located as regards many mining districts in Eastern Nevada, among which are Egan Canj'on, Kinsley, Kern, Patter- son, Ely, Pahranagat and Deep Creek— all of which are under rapid development. A stage line is in operation from this place to Egan Canyon and the Cherry Creek mines, a distance of DO miles south. Soon after leaving Toano we beg u the ascent of Ce- dar Pass, which divides the Desert from Humboldt Valley. The country is more broken, but possessing more vegetation. We have passed the western line of the desert, where, in early days, tlie travel- worn emigrant wearily toiled through the burning s^md, his journey unenlivened by the sight of water or vegetation. One word more, regarding this desert: The term sand is generally applied, when speaking of the soil of the barren wastes which occur at intervals along the road. With one or two exceptions it is a misnomer, though it well applies to the desert we have crossed. Most of the surface of this waste is sand, flue, hard and grey, mixed with marine shells and fossilized fragments of another age. There is no evidence on which to found a hope that this portion of the country could be rendered subservient to the use of man, consisting, as it does, of beds of sand and alkali, overlaying a heav;y gravel deposit. Ages must pass away before nature's Avondrous changes shall lender this desert fit for the habitation of man. Continuing on up the ridge, 9.91 miles, we pass Pequop— and 5.83 miles further OtegO ^ lioth side-tracks of little im- portance. Then we commence to descend, and 5.6 miles further arrive at Independence — Independence Springs, from which this station derives its name, are near by, aud supply an abun- dance of very good cold water. Independence, Clover and Ruby valleys, lie to the southward. The two first named are small and valueless except for grazing purposes. From Cedar Pass a spur, or rather a low range of hills, extends far to the southward. About 70 or 80 miles south of the pass, is the South Fork of the Hum- boldt which canyons through thi? range, running to the east and north of another range until it reaches the main Humboldt. Although the range first mentioned, after havingunited witli the western range south of the South Fork, extends much farther south, we will follow it only to Fort Ruby, which is situated in the south end of Ruby Valley, near to the South Fork. From this fort to the pass is about 65 miles, which may be taken as the length of the valley. The average width is ten miles from the western range mentioned to the foot-hills of Ruby Range, which hems in the valley to the east. A large portion of this valley is very productive ard is occu- pied by settlers — mostly discharged sol- diers from Fort Ruby. In the southeast- ern portion of the valley is Ruby and Franklin lakes, which are spoken of un- der the general term of Ruby Lake, for in high water they are united, forming a brackish sheet of water about 15 miles long by seven in width, which haa no out- let. It'is— like Humboldt, Carson and Pyr- amid lakes in the Truckee Desert— merely a leservoir, where the fioods accumulate to evaporate in the dry summer. The old stage road, from Salt Lake to Austin, crosses the foot of the valley at Ruby sta- tion. About 20 miles east of the Ruby Range lies GoshootLake, another brackish pond, with two small tributaries aud no outlet, rather wider aud about the same length as Ruby Lake. About half-way be- tween GosLoot and the railroad lies Snow Lake, about five miles in diameter, possefs- ing the same general characteristics as the others. With" the exception of the valleys around these lakes and along the water- courses, the country is valueless except for stock-raising. In the Ruby Range rich silver lodes have been discovered, some rock of which has been found to assay as high as f 600 per ton. Returning to Independence, we again proceed westward— the country is rolling and broken — and the up-grade continues 6.1 miles to Ifloore's — on the summit of Cedar Pass. We now have down-grade for 311 miles to the Nevada Desert. In general outline this pass resembles a AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 125 rather rough, broken i)lateavi,bent up- ward in the middle, forming a natural roadbed from the desert to the Hum- boldt Valley. It was once covered with scrub cedar, which was cut off for use by the railroad company and others. Some is still obtained in the moun- tains to the north. About 15 miles to the north a high, craggy peak marks the ])oint where Thousand S]iring Val- ley bends to the south, and from its divide slopes down to the valley of the Humboldt. Descending 2.65 miles is Cedar— a small side-track, and six miles further brings our train to Wells — Here are located the usual round-house and machine shops of a division. The station is 1,250 miles from Omaha and 664 from San Fran- cisco; elevation, 5,628 feet. Owing to the location of railroad shops at this place much imin'ovement is notice- able in the last few years. The chief points of interest around the station are the celebrated. Humboldt Wells — around which the emigrants, in early times, camped to recruit their teams, after a long, hard journey across the desert. The wells are in the midst of a beautiful meadow or valley, which slopes away until it joins the Humboldt or main valley. The springs or wells— about 20 in number — are scattered over this lit- tle valley ; one from which the compa- ny obtain their supply of water being within 200 yards of the road, and about that distance west of the station. A house has been built over it, and the water is raised into the tanks by an engine. These wells Avould hardly be noticed by the traveler unless his at- tention was called to them. Nothing marks their presence except the circle of rank grass around them. When standing on the bank of one of these curious springs, you look on a still sur- face of water, perhaps 6 or 7 feet across and nearly round ; no current disturbs it ; it resembles a well more than a na- tural spring, and you look to see the dirt taken from it when dug. The wa- ter, which is slightly brackish, rises to the surface, seeping off through the loose, sandy loam soil of the valley. No bottom has been found to these wells, and they have been sounded to a great depth. Undoubtedly they are the craters of volcanoes long since ex- tinct, but which at one time threw up this vast body of lava of which the soil of Cedar Pass is largely composed. The whole face of the country bears evidence of the mighty change which has been taking place for centuries. Lava in hard, rough blocks ; lava de- composed and powdered ; huge blocks of granite and sandstone in the foot- hills, broken, shattered and thrown around in wild confusion, are some of the signs indicative of an age when desolation reigned supreme. The val- ley in which the wells are situated is about five miles long by three wide, covered with a luxuriant growth c*f grass. The low hills afford an er- cellent stock "range." The transition from the parched desert and barren, desolate upland to these green and Avell- watered valleys, redolent with the aroma of the countless flowers which deck its bosom, seems like the work of magic. Rich mineral discoveries have been made about 35 or 40 miles southeast of Wells— east of Clover Valley— in the Johnson «& Latham district. The veins are reported large, well-defined, and rich in silver, copper and lead ; large deposits of iron ore have also been found. The district is well supi^lied with wood and water, and easy of ac- cess from the railroad. A stage runs through the district, extending 100 miles south to Shelburn, near the old overland stage road, in the Shellcreek mining district. A stage line is also in operation to the Bull Run district. Stock-raising occupies the atten- tion of most of the settlers about this section and to the northward. Leaving the Wells we proceed down the valley for a few miles, when we en- ter the main valley of the Humboldt, which is very rich, but the seasons are too short for agricultural purposes. The soil is a deep black loam, moist enough for all purposes without irri- gation, from one to two feet deep. This portion of the Humboldt is about 80 miles In length, averaging 10 miles in width, nearly every aci'e being of the quality described. From Osino Caiion to the headwaters of the valley is occupied by settlers who have taken up hay ranches and stock ranges. The river abounds in fish and the foot- hills with deer and other game. 126 crofutt's new overlamd tourist The Humboldt Eiver rises in the Humboldt Mountains, northwest of Cedar Pass, and courses westerly for about 250 miles, when it bends to the south, emptying into Humboldt Lake, about 50 miles from the Big Bend. It is a rapid stream for most of the dis- tance, possessing few fords or conve- nient places for crossing. The railroad follows down its northern bank until it reaches Twelve-Mile Canon, about 16 miles west of Carlin, where it cross- es to the south side of the river and continues about 170 miles, when it crosses again and leaves the river, skirting the foot-hills in full view of the river and lake. The main stream has many varieties of lish, and at cer- tain seasons its waters are a great re- | sort for wild ducks and geese. Where it enters the lake the volume of water is much less than it is 100 miles above, owing to the aridity of the soil through which it passes. Of the valleys bor- dering it we shall speak separately, as each division is totally distinct in its general features. The "old emigrant road" can be distinctly traced along the river from its head to its source. From Wells, continuing down grade, it is 7.5 miles to Tulasco— a small side-track, live miles from BUhop's— This is another unim- portant side-track, where Bishop's valley unites with the Humboldt. This valley is 70 miles long, average width about live miles. It is very fertile, be- ing watered by Bishop's Creek, which rises in the Humboldt Mountains, near HumboldtCahon, about 70 miles to the northeast,winding through the valley. Deetli— is passed 7.7 miles from Bishop's, and 12.9 miles farther to Hal leek— At this station Govern- ment stores are left for Fort Halleek, a military station on the opposite side of the river. At the foot of the moun- tain—about 12 miles from the station- can be seen some settlers' buildings. Xo.53 Annex. ' l*i'M"k«',v."'tl>« Moriie't Toati.— This singular little iii<'iiil)er of the lizard sijecies is certainly a native Calit'oruian. It is found uiion nearly every dry hill or gravelly plain ; and although it is rare in some districts, in others it is still common. There are several varieties and sizes of it, and all perfectly harmelss. It lives chiefly on flies and small insects. A California friend of ours had a pair of these picketed in front of his cabin for over three months ; and, one morning, the male toad wound itself around the picket pin and strangled to death, and the situated on the road to the post. The military post is hid from view by the intervening hills. It is situated on an elevated plateau, which lies partially behind the first range, debouching thence in a long upland, which ex- tends some distance down the river. The valleys along the hills and much of the upland, are settled, and for veg- etables and cerals not affected by the early frost, prove very productive. A ready market is found along the rail- road. l*eko— is an unimportant station, 3.3 miles west of Halleek. Just after leaving the station we cross the north fork of the Humboldt on a truss bridge This river, where it unites with the main stream, is of equal size. It rises about 100 miles north, and receives as tributaries many small creeks and riv- ulets. The valfey of the North Fork is from five to seven miles wide and covered wuth a heavy growth of grass, and, like the main valley, is not sus- ceptible of cultivation to any great extent. Some kinds of vegetables yield handsome returns. The seasons are long enough, and the absence of early and late frosts insures a crop. Around the head of this valley are many smaller ones, each tributary stream having its own separate body of valley land. Some are perfectgems, nestled among the hills and almost surrounded by timber. Here game in abundance is found— quail, grouse, hare, deer and bear, and sometimes a "mountain lion," and the tourist, an- gler and hunter will find enough to oc- cupy them pleasantly should they visit this region. In these valleys are many thousand acres of Government land unclaimed, excepting that portion owned by the Railroad Company. The Humboldt and its tributary val-. leys, as a range for stock, have no su- perior west of the Rocky Mountains. The winters are mild— snow rarely suf- ficiently deep to render it necessary to same day the female followed his example. Upon a post mortem examination of the female 1>"J eggs were found, about the size and shape of a small wren's egg. (See illustration, page Sl.j The Mammotli Snow I'low— owned by the Central Pacific Railroad, rests upon two four- wheel trucks, is 29. feet long, 10 feet G inches wide, 13 feet 3 inches high, and weighs 41,860 pounds. It was once propelled by ten locomo- tives, at the rate of OiO miles an hour, into a snow drift on the Sierra Nevada Mountains, resulting in a big hole in the snow. CROFUTt's new OVEKLAIS^D XOUKIST 127 feed the stock. Wild cattle are found in the valleys and among the hills, Avhich have never received any attention or care. Stock-raisers are tornin-'- their attention of late to this couutry and find it very re- munerative. The range is not confined to the valley alone, the foot-hills and even the mountain sides produce the bunch grass in profusion. "Wherever sage-brush grows rank on the hill- sides, bunchgrass thrives equally well. O.iiiio— is 11.8 miles down the valley from Peko — a signal station at the head of Osino Canyon, where the val- ley suddenly ends. At this point the northern range of mountains sweeps to the river bank, which mw assumes a tortuous course — seeming to double back on itself in places — completely bewildering the traveler. Across the rivtr the high peak of tlie opposite chain rise clear and bold from the valley, contrasting strongly Avith the black, broken i asses of shattered m untaius r.mong which we are winding in and out, seemingly in an endless labyrinth. Now we wind round a high point, the rail lying close to the river's bank, and next we cross a little valley with the water washing against the opposite blufl's, half a mile iway. A dense mass 'f willow covers the bottom lauds through which the river wanders. On around another rocky point and "we are in a wider portion of the canyon, with an occasional strip of meadow land in view, when suddenly we emerge into a beautiful valley, across which we speed, the road curving around to the right, r.nd 8.8 miles from the last station we arrive at Klko — The county seat of Elko county ; popu'aiion about 1.2U0. Elko is a regular eating station for all trains from East and West. The town consisted of wood and canvas houses— wliieh latter class is ra])idlybeing replaced by something more substantial. In the last few years the town has improved materially. The State University, which cost $30,- 000, is located here, just to the north- ward of the town. At this station — and almost every one to the westward — can l}e seen representatives of the Shoshone or Piute Indians, Avlio come around the cars to beg. Any person who wishes to tell a big " whopper" would say, they are clean, neatly dressed, "child-like and bland," and perfumed with the choicest attar of roses, but an old plainsman would reverse the saying in terms more expressive than elegant. Near the town some Wakm Springs are attracting attention. The medicinal quali- ties of the water are highly spoken of. A hr.^k lies between the hotel and the springs, making regular trips for the ac- commodation of visitors. The rich silver mining district of Cope is about 80 miles due north of Elko, near the head waters of the North Fork of the Humboldt, bordering on the Owyhee coun- try. Some very rich mines have been dis- covered and several quartz mills erected, in that district, but the more recent dis- coveries are in Tuscarora district about 50 miles north, and arc said to be very rich. Stages leave Elko daily for Mountain City— north, in Cope district — 80 miles dis- tant, and all intermediate towns and camps. Stages also run to Railroad district — south 25 miles, and to Eureka district, 100 miles; also a weekly line to the South Fork of the Humboldt and Huntington valleys. Large quantities ot freight arrive at, and are re-shipped from this station on wagons, for the various mining districts to the north an I south. Another important business that has sprung up at Elko, within the last few years, is cattle-raising. Elko county con- tains more cattle than any other two coun- ties in the State, and Elko ships more cattle than any four stations on the road, being amply provided with all the facilities — roomy yards, shutes, elc, for a busi- ness that is rapidly increasing, and is des- tined, before many years, to far exceed all others in the State. This section is well watered by rapid mountain streams, and the country abounds in game of all kinds — a hunter's paradise. The valley of the Humboldt, for twenty miles above and below Elko, cannot be ranked as amongthe bestof its bottom-lands, though it is susceptible of cultivation to a considerable degree. But a narrow strip is meadow, the remainder being higher, gravelly land, covered with sage-brush and bunch-grass. Without irrigation it is use- less for agricultural piurposes. Passing down from Elko — the valley dotted with the hamlets of the rancher for about nine miles — we come opposite the South Fork of the Humboldt. This stream rises about 100 miles to the south- east. It canyons through Ruby Mountains, and then follows down the eastern side of one of the numerous ranges, which, 128 I'ACIFIC COAST GUIDK. uudcr llic general name of the Humboldt Mountains, intersect the country. For portions of the distance there is fine valley land along tlie stream, ranging from one to seven miles wide, adapted to early crops, but, as a body, it is inferior to cither the Main or Nortli Fork valleys. How- ever, the land is ail admirably adapted lor grazing purjiosej. Moieen — is a signal station, ll.8m les west of Elko. After leaving this station the valley presents a changed appearance. The meadow lands are broad and green, extending over most of the valley; on the right the blufl's arc high and covered witli luxuriant bunch-grass. Soon the meadows are almost entirely closed out, and we en- ter Five ]\Iile Canyon. Through this the river runs C[uite rapidly, ils clear waters sparkling in the sunlight as they speed along, while occasional narrow strips of meadow land are to be seen at times. The scenery along this canyon is liardly surpassed by the bold and varied panorama presented to our view along the base of the snow-capped mountains through which the river and railroad have forced their way. Soon after entering the canyon we pass several isolated towers of conglomerate rock, towering to the height of nearly 200 feet. Leaving this canyon, we find Susan Valley, anotlaer strip of good bottom land, about twenty miles long, by four wide, bordering the East Fork of Maggie's Creek. Among the foot-hills of Owyhee Itange, to the northward, are many beauti- ful, little va leys, well watered by moun- tain streams, waiting only the advent of the settler to transform them into pleas- ant homes. Timber is ]ileauty in the ra- vines and on the hill-sides— sufUcient for the wants of a large population. Passing on to near the next station, we cross Mag- gie's Creek, which empties into the Hum- boldt from the north. This stream is named for a beautiful Scotch girl, who, with her parents, stayed here for a time "re- cruiting their stock " in the old times when the early emigrants toiled ahmg the river. It rises in the Owyhee Mountains, about 8Q miles to tlie nortliward. The valley through which the stream flows is from three to five miles wide and very rich. It extends to the base of the mountains, about 70 miles, and is now mostly occupied by stockmen. The stream atfords excellent trout fishing, and game of various kinds abounds on the hills bordering the valley. Some time since, a wagon road was sui*veyed and located up this valley to Idaho Territory. From IMoleen, it is 11.6 miles to Cai'lill — This is quite a busy station, of about 000 poiDulation. Here are located the offices of Humboldt Division, and the division Avorkshops. The latter are of wood and consist of a round-house of 16 stalls, a machine, car and blacksmith shop. The railroad was completed to this place Dec. 20, 18U8. To the south of Carlin, from lo to GO miles, are located mil es rich in gold, sil- ver, copper and iron. To the northward, rich discoveries have been made, extend- ing to the Owyhee coui .try. In both these sections new mining districts have been located, and the attenViou ( f experitnced capitalists is being attracted thereto. Mary's Creek — rises three miles north and enters the Humboldt at Car. in. It rises in a. beautiful lakelet nestled among the hills and bordered by a narrow slip of fine valley laud. The valley of the stream, and that portion surrounding its head waters, is occupied by settlers. Proceeding down the river from Carlin, for some distance the green lueadosss con- tinue fair and wide ; then the sloping hills give place uO lofty mountains, which close in on either hancl, shutting out the valley. From the appearance of this mountain range one would suppose that it had ex- tended across the valley at one time, form- ing a vast lake of the waters of the river, then some mighty convulsion of nature rent the solid wall asunder, forming a pas- sage for the waters which wash the base of the clifts, which are from 500 to 1,000 feet high. This place is generally known as "r H E Palisades — Humboldt or Twelve Mile Canyon, although it does not possess points of interest with Echo or Weber canyons, in many particulars the scenery is equally grand. The ab- senceof varied colors may urgeagainst its claims to equal with those places, but, on the other hancl, its bleak, bare, brown walls have a majestic, gloomy grandeur, which coloring could not improve. In passmg clown this canyon, we seem t) pass between two walls which threaten to close together ere we shall gain the outlet. The river rolls at our feet a rapid, boiling current, tossed from side to side of the gorge by the rocks, wasting its fury in vain attempts to break away its prison walls. The walls in places have crum- bled, and large masses of crushed rocks C:K0FUTT S NEAX' OVlillLAND TOURIST 129 slope down to the river brink. Seams of iron ore and copper-bearing rock break the monotony of color, showing the exist- ence of large deposits of these materials among these brown old mount i ins. Now we pvxss "Red Cliff," wliich rears its bat- tered frontlet 800 feet above the water. A colony of swallows have taken possession of the rock, and built their curious nests upon its face. From out their mud pal- aces they look down upon us, no doubt wondering about the great monster rushing past, and after he has disappeared, gossip- ing among themselves of the good old times wlien his presence was unknown in tlie canyon. Now we pass "Maggie's Bower," a brown arch on the face of the cliff, about 500 feet from its base. We could not see much bower- unless it was the left bower, for we left it behind us. Twisting in and around these projecting cliffs, 9.1 miles from Carlin, we reach Palisade — a station, in the midst of the Palisade?, and apparently locked in on all sides. This is a busy place for a small one of only 200 population, as it is the junction of the Eureka & Palisade rail- road, where are located their machine and workshops. Most of the box and flat cars of this company are made here in their own shops. The amount of freight han- dled at this station is enormous. Passen- gers can, almost always, see large piles of base bullion pigs piled up at the freight house, awaiting shipment. This bullion is mostly freighted here from the smelting furnaces at Eureka, by the Eureka and Palisade railroad, which alone handled over 35,000.000 pounds annually. One great item of freight taken ciown over this road— the E. &. P.— is timber from the Sierra Nevada Mountains, for use in timbering up the mines at Eureka. Palisade, beside the machine shops above named, has several large build- ings, used by the Railroad Company, for freights and storage and one a fine, com- modious passenger station; these with several stores, hotels, restaurants and saloons make up the town. The station is supplied with water from a huge tank, situated upon the mountain side, to the north, 300 feet above the sta- tion. This tank in turn is supplied from springs situated further up the mountain, that never fail in their supply. Now, as we started out to see what was worth seeing, let us take a run down over 9 the road that comes in here and note what can be seen. £areka ^ Palisade Railroad. Princijjal Office, Eureka, Nevada. &. Mills, President, Eureka. P. EvEKTs GenH SupH Eureka. J. L. FA8T GenH F. P. & T. Agt... Palisade. This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, commenced in December, 1873, and com- pleted to Eureka in October, 1874, and is 90 miles in length. Passenger trains leave for the South on arrival of trains on the Central, and arrive in time to connect for either the East or West. The trains make full 20 miles an hour, and the cars are as commodious and nice as on any road in this country. Leaving Palisade we cross the Humboldt River and start for the West, the C. P. on the north side of the river and our little train on the south side. But a few him- dred yards from the station we curve around to the left, while the C. P. makes a similar one to the right and is soon lost to view. The general course of our train is south, following up Pine Valley, which is, for the first ten miles, covered with sage- brush—as is also the surrounding hills. Bullion — is the first station on the bills, eight miles from Palisade, but we pass it, and the valley widens and 4.25 miles fur- ther is over one mile in width. Now our train is at EvAKS — a simple side-track, important only to a few settlers near, who are culti- vating small fields and watching herds of cattle and sheep, which find good ranges on the hills, ravines, and neighboring valleys. Some fields are fenced, for the protection of the grass, which is cut for hay. The Cortez Mountains are on the west — the right side — and the Diamond range on the left. Willard's — is 15 miles from Palisade, and four miles from Hay Ranch — This station is the first from Palisade where anything like busi- ness is to be seen. Here the Railroad Com- pany have 2,500 acres of bottom land fenced, on which they cut annually about 1,000 tons of hay, which they bale and store away in those long warehouses to be seen on the right of the road. The com- pany run freight teams from the end of their road at Eureka, and — in connection with it — to Pioche and all intermediate places. These teams are composed of 18 mules each, with three and sometimes four 130 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. AMERICAN RIVER CANYON. Near Shady Run, Sie ra Nevada Muuutain=. wagons coupled together — as illustrated on page 28 — employing from 300 to 400 mules, each team hauling from 30,000 to 40,000 lbs. In Avinter, when their mules are not in use, they are kept at this station, and the hay is harvested by the company and used for their own stock. Continuing on up the valley 9.31 miles, we come to Box Springs — but trains do not stop only on signal, and nine miles further stop at Mineral — This is a regular eating sta- tion, and in fact is the only one on the road. The meals cost fl.OO, and are of the sub- stantial order, that makes bone and sinew. To the east is located the Mineral Hill Mine, once the most productive' in the State, but it proved to be a " pocket " and the original owners, after taking out sev- eral millions of dollars, sold their mine to an English company — who, until within the las^ year, have allowed it to remain trood idle. It is now being worked with prospects. From Mineral, it is 5.5 miles to Deep Wells — so named for a deep well that was dug near by, to jirocure water for the freight teams that were in the habit of traveling this ri>ad. The enterprising "Pil- grim" who dug the well was wont to charge $1.00 for sufficient water to water an 18 mule team, or " four skins full for a quar- ter." From Deep Wells the route is over a sage-brush country, rough and bluffy, for seven miles, to Alpha— a small station, near where kilns of charcoal are burned for use at the smelting furnaces. To the west of this station is a broad valley, OA^er M'hich range large herds of cattle. Willow Creek, a small stream, is crossed, and ten miles from Alpha is Pine Station — another place where charcoal burning is the principal busi- CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ]3I ness. Cedar trees are noticeable along on the blufls as we pass by ; sage is abund- ant, and jack-rabbits are numerous and very large — they call them " narrow-gauge muk^s " in this country. Cedak — is the next station, three anci-a- half miles from Pine. The country is rougli and broken, and sage predominates; the grade is heavy and the road crooked — twisting and turning for 7.5 miles to Summit — a station on the dividing ridge between Pine Yalley on the west and Dia- mond Valley on the east. The face of the country is not very inviting, except for those " narrow-gauge mules." Near the summit the old overland stage road crosses from Jacob's Wells on the east to Austin on the west. From the summit the road enters Dia- mond Valley, and follows it up to Eureka, the road making, between Summit and Gardner Pass — six miles from Summit — a great horse-shoe curve, and fairlj" doubling back upon itself to get around the projecting spurs that shoot out from the range of liigli bluffs on each side. Contiiltting along up the narrow valley nine miles, we reach D I A M o N D — an unimportant statio i, and another run of twelve miles brings our train to the end of the road at £ni*el«.a — This city is 90 miles south of Palisade, and contains, witli the near surroundings, a population of 6,000, nearly all of whom are engaged in mining and de- pendent pursuits. Besides the usual num- ber of stores, hotels and small shops, there are two 30-stamp mills, seven smelting works and 16 furnaces, with a capacity of 50 tons of ore each, daily. These extensive establishments, running night and daj', make business pretty livelj'^ and will ac- count for the quantities of base bullion hauled over the railroad to Palisade, as above noticed. Of the hotels, the Jackson and the Parker are the i^rincipal ones. There are two daily papers, the Sentinel and the Republican. The Ruby Hill railroad, really an ex- tention of the Eureka & Palisade, runs from the depot at Eureka around the A^arious smelting and refining works and mines of the different mining companies, and around Eureka, delivering freight and handling ores. This road is about six miles in length. Tlie most prominent mines at Eureka are Eureka Consolidated, Rich- mond Consolidated, the K. K., the Jack- son, Hamburg, Matamoras and Atlas. Stages connect at Eureka, carrying pas- sengers, mails and express to the various mining towns and camps in the adjoining country; to Hami]ton, 40 miles, dail}^, which runs through 'the AVard and Pioche; districts to Ward, 100 miles; Pioche, 190 miles ; to Tybo, 100 miles ; Austin, SO miles ; tri-weekly stage to Belmont, 100 miles. The freighiing business to Pioclie and all intermediate towns and camps is very extensive, most of which is hauled by the Railroad Company's teams, as previously stated. The White Pixe Country, is sit- uated to ihe soutlieast from Eureka, tlie principal city of which is Hamilton — This city contains a pop- ulation of about 800, all of whom are en- gaged in the mining business. Milling and smeltingare the only occupations, there being two smelters and six mills. An English company is now engaged running a tunnel under Treasure Hill, to strike the great mineral deposit known to be there. This tunnel, when com])]eted, will be 6,000 feet long— 7x9 feet, double track, " T " rail — and will tap the mines at a depth of 1 600 feet. It is now completed about 3,000 feet. Hamilton had one weekly newspaper— the JVncs. White Pine — is nearly due east of Vir- ginia Cily, where the first silvei mining ex- citement occurred on the Pacific slope, and by many is supposed to be on the same range which produced the Comstock and other famous lodes. Possibly such is the case, though "ranges " have been terribly shaken about in this section of our countiy. The Eberhardtmine, which first attracted attention to this locality, was discovered in 1806, but the great stampede of miners and speculatore to that quarter did not take place until the winter and spring of 1869. As far as prospected, the veins, in a ma- jority of cases, are not regular, being broken and turned in every direction. Some are flat, others dip at a' regular angle and have solid walls. The Base Metal Range in this vicinity is very extensive, and a num- ber of furnaces have been erected to reduce the ores into base bullion for shipment. For items of interest see Annex No. 30. We will now return to f alisade, and re- sume our place in the C. P. cars. Passing down the canj^on, winding and twisting along around a succession of projecting spurs, we pass the "Devil's Peak," on the opposite side of the river, a perpendicular rock, probably 500 feet high, rising from 132 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE, the water's edge. On, past the towering bluffs and castellated rocks— which, at first view, look like some old brown castle, for- sakeji by its founders and left to ruin, deso- lation and decay— we cross the river on a fine Howe truss bridge ; and from this point we shall keep on the southern side of the stream until we near Humboldt Lake, when we cross it again, and for the last time. Clnro— is a flag station, 10.4 miles west of Palisade, reached just after emerg- ing from the canyon. We now enter a more open country, with strips of meadow along the river's brink. Near this point is where the powder magazine of the rail- road company exploded in lf?68, while the road w^s building through the canyon. North of the river, at the point on the opposite side, can be seen a peculiar for- mation, not seen elsewhere in the canyon. Where the road is cut through these points, they consist of gravel, sand and cement, having all the appearance of gold-bearing gravel-beds. It is an unmistakable water- wash, and not caused by volcanic wear — fine layers of sand, from one to five feet thick, and interspersed through the gravel, showing where the water rested and the sediment settled. Gkavelly Ford— one of the most no- ted points on the Humboldt River in early days, is near Cluro. Then the canyon through which we have just passed was impassable. The long lines of emigrant wagons could not pass through the mighty chasm, but were obliged to turn and toil over the mountains until they could de- scend into the valley again. Coming to this point on the south side of the river, they crossed and followed up a slope of the opposite hills, thence along the table-land, and from thence to the valley above. A few would leave the river lower down and bear away to the south, but the i>.ad was long and rough before they reached the valley above the canyon. There were and now are other fords on the river, lower down, but none were as safe as this. With sloping gravelly banks and a hard gravel bottom, it oftered superior advantages to the emigrant. Hence it became a noted place — the point to which the westward- bound emigrants looked forward with great interest. Here was excellent grazing for their travel-worn teams. Owing to these con- siderations, large bodies of emigrants were often encamped here for weeks. At times the river would be too high, and they would wait for the torrent to subside. The Indians — Shoshones — knew this also, and many a skirmish took phice between them and their white brothers, caused by m istaken ideas regarding the ownership of the emi- grant's stock. Connected with this place is an incident Vidiich, for the honor of the men who per- formed the Christian act, we will relate: In the early times spoken of, a party of emigrants were encamped here, waiting for the water to subside. Among these emi- grants were many women and children. While here, an estimable young lady of 18 years fell sick, and despite the watchful care and loving tenderness of friends and kindred, her pure spirit floated into that unknown mist, dividing the real from the ideal, the mortal from the immortal. Her friends reared an humble head-board to her memory, and, in course of time — amid the new life opening to them on the Pacific slope — the young girl's fate and grave were alike forgotten by all but her immediate relatives." When the advance guard of the Central railroad — the graders and culvert men— came to Gravelly Ford, they found the lone grave and fast-decaying head- board. The site awoke the finer feelings of their nature and aroused their sympa- thies, for they were we/i, these brown, toil- stained laborers. The " culvert men " (masons) concluded that it was not consistent with Christian usage to leave a grave exposed and unde- fended from the incursion of beasts of prey. With such men, to think was to act, and in a few days the lone grave was enclosed with a solid wall, and a cross— the sacred emblem of immortality — took the place of the old head-board. In the day when the final reckoning between these men and the recording angel is adjusted, we think they will find a credit for that deed which will ofl'set many little debits in the ledger of good and .\ il. Perhaps a fair spirit above may smile a blessing on their lives in rec- ompense of the noble deed. The grave is on the south side of the road, upon a low bluff, about five miles west of Cluro. In October, 1871, the Superintendent of the Division erected over it a fine large cross. " Corral," (Spanish) a pen made of posts set on end in the ground close together, and fastened with rawhide thongs, or by wagons drawn in a circle forming an inclosure. Telegraph Operators are called " lightning ghovers." OuTFiT-Necessary supplies for a journey. crofutt's new overland tourist 133 Upon one side is inscribed " The Mai- den's GiiAVE," on the other, her name, "Luciuda Duncan." Passing on, we cross narrow patches of meadow land, and wind around the base of low hills until we reach a broad valley. Across tlie river to the northward can be seen the long, unbroken slopes which stretch away until they are lost in that cold blue line — the Idaho Mountains — which rises against the northern sky. Behind that gray old peak, whi^li is barely discernible, the head waters of the North Fork of the Humboldt break away when starting on their journey for the main river. Farther to the left, and nearer, from among tliat darker clump of hills Maggie's Creek finds its source. Be-0-wa-'»ve — is reached at a narrow point called Copper Canyon, 8.7 miles from Cluro. The Cortez mines and mihs are situated about ;_5 miles south of this station, witli which lliey are connected by a good road. At this point the Red Eange throws a spur nearly across the valley, cutting it in two. It hDoks as tliougli the spur extended clear across, at one time, damming up the waters of the river, as at the Palisades. The water-wash far up the hillside is in evi- dence of the theory that sucli was once the case, and that the waters cut this narrow gorge, through which they speed along unmindful of the mighty work done in for- mer years, when the resistless current " forced a highway to the sea," and drained a mighty lake, leaving in its place green meadows. Here, on this red ridge, is tlie dividing line between the Shoshones and the Piutes, two tribes of Indians who seemed to be created for tlie express purpose of worry- ing emigrants, stealing stock, eating grass- hoppers, and preying on themselves and everybody else. The Shoshones are very degraded Indians, and until recently, were like the Ishmaelites or Pariahs of old — their hand was against every man, and every man's hand was compelled, in self- defense, to be against them until they be- came almost unable to commit depreda- tions, and could make more by begging than Ihey could by stealing. The term Be-o- wa-we signifies gate, and it is literal in its significance. After leaA'ing Be-o-wa-we, we pass through the gate, and wind along by the hillside, over the low meadows, which here are very narrow. The " bottom " is broad, but is covered with willows, with the ex- ception of the narrow meadows spoken of. Amid these willows the stream winds and twists about through innumerable sloughs and creeks, as though undecided whether to leave this shady retreat for the barren plains below. Perhaps the traveler will see a flock of pelicans disporting in the waters on their return from their daily fishing exursion to Humboldt Lake. These birds, at certain seasonsof the year, are to be Ibuud here and there along the i-iver for about 20 miles below, in great numbers. They build their nests in these willow islands and rear the-ir young undisturbed, for even an Indian cannot penetrate this swampy, treacherous fastness. Every morning the old birds can be seen taking their flight to Humboldt Lake, where, in its shallow waters, they load tliemselves with fish, returning towards night to feed their young and ramble about the bottom. Soon after leaving the station, Hot Spring Vallej^ comes in on the left — south —and by looking away to the south eight miles, can be seen columns of steam, from one of the m^ny "hot springs" which abound in the " Great Basin." If you do not behold the steam — for the . springs are not always in active operation — you will behold a long, yellowish, red line, stretching for a full half-mile around a barren hill-side. From this line boiling, muddy water and su phuric wash descends the hill-side, desolating everything in its 134 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. course, its waters escaping through the bogs of the valley. Bometiines for hours these springs are inactive, then come little putfs of steam, then loug and freqi;ent jets, which often shoot 30 feet high. The waters are very hot. Woe to the unlucky liombre who gets near and to the windward of one of these springs, whe 1 it sends forlli a col- umn of spray, steam and muddy sulphur water from 20 to 30 feet in height. He will need a change of clothes, some simple cerate, a few days' rest, and the prayers of his friends — as well as of the congregation. There are over 100 of these spurting, bub- bling, sulphuric curiosities around the hills in this vicinity. The. general charac- ter of all are about the same. There are a great many theories regard- ing these springs — what causes the heat, etc. Some contend that the water escapes from the regions of eternal fires, wliich are supposed to be ever burning in the center of the globe. Others assert that it is min- eral in solution with the water which causes the heat. Again, irreverent persons suggest that this part of the country is but the roof of a peculiar place to which they may well fear their wicked deeds may doom them in the future. Shoshone— is ten miles west of Be- o-wa-we ; elevation 4,636 feet. Across the river to the right is Battle Mountain, which rises up clear and sharp from the river's brink. It seems near, but between us and its southern base is a wide bottom land and the river, which here really " spreads itself" We saw the same point wh n emerging from Be-o-wa-we, or "the gate," and it will continue in sight for many miles. This mountain derives its name from an Indian fight, the particulars of which will be related hereafter. There are several ranges near by, all bearing the same gene- ral name. This range being the most prominent, deserves a passing notice. It lies north of the river, between the Owyhee Range on the north and the Reese River Mountains on the south. Its base is washed by the river its entire Lmgth — from 50 to 75 miles. It presents an al- most unbroken surface and even altitude the entire distance. In places it lises in bold bluffs, in others it slopes aw^ay from base to summit, Itut in each case the same altitude is reached. It is about 1,500 feet high, the top or summit appearing to be table-land. Silver and copper mines have been prospec'ed with good results. Behind this lange are wide valleys, wdiich slope away to the river at either end of the range, leaving it comparatively isolated. Opposite to Shoshone, Rock Creek emp- ties its waters into the Humboldt. It rises about 40 miles to the northward, and is bordered by a beautiful valley about foi;r miles wide. The stream is well stocked with fish, among which are the mountain tront. In the country around the head- waters of the stream is found plenty of game of various kinds, including deer and bear. Copper mines of vast size and great rich- ness are found in the valley of Rock Creek, and among the adjoining hills. Whenever the copper interest becomes of sufficient importance to warrant the Opening of these mines, this section will prove one of great importance. Leaving Shoshone, we pursue our way down theriver, the road leading back from the meadow land and passing along an upland, covered with sage-brush. The hills on our left are smooth and covered with a good coat of bunch-grass, affording most excellent pasturage for stock, sum- mer and winter. Argeiita — is 11.1 miles further west. This was formerly a regular eating station and the di>tributing point for Austin and the Reese River country ; but isnown sim- ple side-track. Paradise Valley lies on the north side of the river, nearly opposite this station. It is about 60 miles long. by eight wide, very fertile and thickly settled. Eden Valley, the northern part of Para- dise Valley, is about 20 miles long and five wide. In general features it resembles the l(;wer portion, the whole, comprising one of the richest farming .sections in the State. Camp Scott and Santa Rosa are situated in the head of the valley, and other small towns have sprung up at other points. Paradise Creek is a clear, cold mountain stream, upon which are a number of grist and saw mills. It rises in the Owyhee Mountains and flows through these valleys to the Humboldt River. Salmon trout of enormous size are found in the stream and its tributaries. Bears, deer, silvei'-gray foxes, and other game, aboun<.l on the hills which border the valley. These valleys — the Humboldt for 50 miles east and west, and the adjoining mountains — are the stock-raisers' paradise. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 135 Tens of thousands of cattle are now room- ing along the Humboldt and adjoining valleys, and surrounding hills. It is com- puted that there are not less than 3.")0 000 head between Promontory Mountain and the Sierra Nevada Moimtains. One lii'm near this station has over 40,000 head, and one range fenced of 28,000 acres. A few miles after leaving Argenta, Reese River Valley joins the Humboldt — coming in from the south. It is very diversified in feature, being very wide at some points — from seven to ten miles — and then dwin- dling down to narrow strii^s of meadow or barren sand. Some portions of the valley are susceptible of cultivation, and posses.^ an excellent soil. Other portions are bar- ren sand and gravel wastes, on which only the sage-brush flourishes. This valley is also known by old emigrants as " Whirl- wind Valley," and passengers will fre- quently see columns of dust ascending skywards. Reese River, which flows through this valley, rises to the south, 180 to 200 miles distant. It has many tribu- taries, which find their source in the moun- tain ranges that extend on either side of the river its entire length. It sinks in the valley about 20 or 30 miles before reach- ing the Humboldt. During the winter and spring floods, the waters reach the Humboldt, but only in very wet times. Near where Reese River sinks in the valley was fought the celebrated battle be- tween the Whites and Indians— settlers and emigrants, 30 years ago — which gave the general name of Battle Mountain to these ranges. A party of marauding Shoshone Indians had stolen a lot of stock from the emigrants and settlers, who banded them- selves together and gave chase. They over- took them at this point, and the fight com- menced. From point to point, from rock to rock, down to the water's edge they drove the red skins, who, finding themselves sur rounded, fought with the stubbornness of despair. When night closed in, the set- tlers found themselves in possession of their slock and a hard-fought field. How many Indians emigrated to the Happy Hunting Grounds of the spirits no one knew, but from this time forward the power of the tribe was broken. From ..'Vrgenta, it is 11.8 miles to Battle Mf onntain— This is a din- ner station for passenger trains frouL both the East and West, where trains stop 30 minutes. The waiters are Chinese, and very lively whi'e serving a good meal Water for the little fountain in front of the Battle Mountain House, the rail- road, and the town, is conducted in pipes from a big spring' in the side of the mountain, three miles to the south. Battle mountain is the distributing' point for a great number of mining districts, towns and camps, both north and south of the road. Stages and fast freight lines leave daily for the northward : To Tuscaro- ra, 68 miles; Rock Creek, 80 miles; Cornucopia, 100 miles. The shipments from Battle Mountain Station average over 500 tons per month, and is in- creasing. The surrounding country is alive with herds of cattle, particularly on the north side of the river, and this place has become quite a point for cattle buyers from California to con- gregate. li'evada Central Railway. General Offices, Battle Mountain. S. H. H. Clark, (of the U. P. B. R.) President. This is a three-foot narrow gauge, organized September 2, d 1879, comple- ted the December following, and sold to Union Pacific parties in the Sum- mer of 1881. Its general course is to the southward, up the valley of Reese River, 93 miles to Austin. The grades are easy, and the country tributary- rich in mines, agricultural lands, cat- tle and sheep. The principal stations and distances between, are : Galena, 11 miles; Mound Springs, 10 miles; Bridges', 22 miles; Walters', 13 miles; Hallsvale, 10 miles; Caton's, 10 miles; Ledlies', 10 miles; Austin, 7 miles. There are twenty mining districts tri- butary to this road, among which are Battle Mountain, Galena, Austin,Lew- is, Reese River, Washington, Kinsley, Dun Glen, Cortez, Diamond, Hum- boldt, Grass Valley and Belmont. In all these districts rich mines are being worked ; stamp mills and smelting fur- naces are numerous. Railroads and low freights have resulted in vigorous development and better machinery. Stage connections are made at sev- eral points on the road, and at Austin for all points in Central and Southern Nevada. Austin— is situated near the sum- mit of the Toiyabe Range, on the ground where the first silver ore was discovered in tliis district, in May, 1862. The discoverer, W. 136 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. M. Talcott, located the vein andnamed it Poney. As soon as it beca.ne known, prospectors flocked in, and the coun- try was pretty thorough- ly prospected durini? 1802 and 18G3. Many veins were located, some of them proving very valuable. Mills were erected at different points, and from that time forward the dis- trict has been in a pros- perous condiiioq. Austin contains a pop- ulation of about 2,000, nearly all of whom are engaged in mining operations. The town has some extensive stores and does a very large business in the way of furnishing sup- plies for the mining- camps surrounding it, for fromSO to 100 miles. The Beese River R-.veille is a live daily pub- lished here. To the south of Battle Mountain Station, about 20 miles, are several hot springs, strongly impreg- nated with sulphur and other minerals, but they attract no particular attention, being too common to excite curiosity. Leaving the station we skirt the base of the mountains to the left, leaving the river far to our right over against the base of Battle Mountain. We are now in the wid- est part of the valley, about opposite the Big Bend of the Humboldt. After passing the Palisades the river in- clines to the south for aboutSO miles, when it sweeps away to the north, along the base of Battle Mountain, for 30 miles further; then turning nearl}^ due s uth, it follows that direction until it discharges its waters in Humboldt Lake, about 50 miles by the river course from the great elbow, forming a vast semi-circle, washed by its waters for three-fourths of the circumference. This vast area of land, or most of it, comprising many tliousand acres of level upland, bor- derea by green meadows, is susceptible of cultivation when irrigated. The sage- brush grows luxuriantly, and where the alkali beds ilo not appear, the soil ]:)roduces a good crop of bunch-grass. The road TRLCKEE RIVER. takes the short side of the semi-circle keeping close to the foot of the isolated Humboldt Spur. On the opposite side of the river, behind the Battle Mountain Range, are several valleys, watered by the mountain streams, and atibrding a large area of first-class farming land. Chief among these is Quinn's Valley, watered by the river of that name. The arable portion of the valley is about 75 miles long, ranging in width from three to seven miles. It is a tine body of valley land, capable of producing lux'uriant crops of grain, grass or vegetables. The hills which enclose it afford excellent pasturage. Timber of va- rious qualities — spruce and pine predomi- nating — is found in the gulches and ravines of the mountains. Quinn's Rivei, which flows through this valley, is a large stream rising in the St. Rosa Hills of the Owyhee range, about 150 miles distant. From'its source the general cour-e of tlie river is due south for about 80 miles, when it turns and runs due west until it reaches IMud Lake. During the summer but little, if any, of its waters reach that place, being absorbed by the barren ])lain which lies between the foot- hills and the Humboldt River. Near the CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 137 head-waters of Quinn's River, the Crooked Creek, or Antelope, rises aud flows dvie north for about 50 miles, when it empties its waters into the Owyhee River. The head-waters of the streams which run from the southern slops of the Ou'j'hee Moun- tains are well supplied with salmon and trout, and olher varieties of fish. Quail, grouse, and four-footed game are abundant in the valleys and timbered mountains. Pinte— is 4.9 miles west of Battle Mountain Station. Here passenger trains from the east, and west meet. Coin — a flag station, is 7.8 miles west of Piute. Stone Honse— is 7.1 m'les further. This place Avas once an old trading post, strongly fortified against Indian attacks. The Stone House stood at the foot of an ab- rupt hill, by the side of a spring of excel- lent water, but is now a mass of ruins. To the south of this station are more of the many hot springs that abound in the Ne- vada Basin. We cross a broad sage-brush bottom, the soil of which in places is sandy and in others alkaline, and then wind along around the base of a mountain spur that shoots away to the northward, and come to Iron Point — a small side-track, 12.4 miles from Stone House. Here are located a few cattle-yards and shutes for loading cattle. At this station the bluff's draw close and high on each side, with the river and a narrow strip of meadow land on the right. After passing around the point aud through numerous cuts for two miles, the canyon widens into a valley for several miles, then closes in, and the train passes around another rocky point into another valley, and stops at Golconda— a station 11.4 miles from Iron Point. This is a small station with a few good buildings. Large herds of cattle range near by in the surrounding valleys, and on the bluffs. Rich mines of gold and silver are located both to the north and south; one, the Golconda mine and mill, only three miles distant to the south. Close to the west of the slation, under the edge of the bluff" on the right, are located some hot springs. Here some of the set tiers— as at Springville, Utah— use the hot water for their advantage— one for milling the other for stimulating the soil. Continuing our journey, we pass over a broad sage brush plain, with wide mead- ows beyond, for 10.9 miles to Tule — an unimportant station. Pass- ing on down the valley we skirt the hills on our left, drawing still closer, in some places the spurs reaching to the track. On our left is an open ing in the hills, from whence a canyon opens out near the road- side. It is about five miles long, contain- ing living springs. Here were discovered the first mines in this part of Nevada. In the spring of ISUO, Mr. Barbeau, who was herding stock for Coperning, discovered the silver ore, aud from this beginning, the prospecting was carried on with vigor, which resulted in locating many very val- uable bodies of ore. From Tule it is 5.8 miles to the end of the Humboldt division, at Winnemucca. Winneniucca — is the commence- ment of the Truckee Division. The station was named after a chief of the Piute In- dians who formerly resided here. Eleva- tion 4,3ol feet. Distance from Omaha 1,451 miles; from San Francisco 463 miles. Winnemucca is the county seat of Hum- boldt county, and is composed of what is known as the old and new towns, which, together, contain about 800 inhabitants. The old town is situated on the low land directly fronting the station, about 300 j-ards distant. Though so near, it is hid from sight until yvju approach the bank and look over. The town contains about 150 buildings of all sorts, among which are a fine new court-house, stamp mill, smelt- ing works, flouring mill, ami a good hotel, the Central Pacific. The buildings with few exceptions, are of wood, new, and like most of the railroad towns, more useful than ornamental. The company have located here the usual division work and repair shops, including a 16-stall round-house. They are built of wood in the most substantial manner, as are all the shops along the road. There is considerable mining going on around and near Winnemucca, and quite a number of mills and furnaces are in opera- tion, all of which are said to be doing well. In the Winnemucca Range, many lodes of silver-bearing ore have been located which promise a fair return for working. Stages leave here daily for Camp Mc- Dermott, 80 miles, fare $15; Paradise, 40 miles, fare $5; Silver Cty, Idaho, 200 miles, fare $40; Boise City, 255 miles, fare $40. Fast freight trains run from this station to all the above towns, and to the mining camps in the adjoining country. 138 CROFUTT S NEW OVEELAND TOURIST Cf^MD-WM HUMBOT pr HOUSF —See Next Page, The Silver State, a weekly newspa- per, is published here. Winnemucea is the great distributing point for a number of mining districts to the north and south, and does an exten- sive freighting business. Many herds of cattle and sheep range the adjacent country, and large numbers are brought here for shipment to Cali- fornia. Mud Lake— is about 59 miles west of this station, across the Humboldt, which here turns to the south, and is one of those peculiar lakes found in the great basin of Nevada. The lake receives the waters of Quinn's River and several smaller tributaries during the wetseason. Ithasno outlet, unless its connection with Pyramid and Win- nemucea lakes could be so designated. It is about 50 miles 'ongby 20 wide, in high water; in summer it dwindles down to a marshy tract of land and a large stagnant pool. At the head of the lake is Black Rock, a noted land-' mark in this part of the country. It is a bold, rocky headland, rising about 1,800 feet above the lake, bleak, bare, and extending for several miles. It is an isolated peak in this desert waste, keeping solitary guard amid the sur- rounding desolation. Pyramid Lake — is about 20 miles south of Mud Lake, which receives the waters of Truckee River. It is about 30 miles longby20 wide during the wet seasons. The quality of the water is superior to that of Mud Lake, though the water of all these lakes is more or less brackish. Winnemucca Lake — a few miles east of Pyramid Lake, is another stagnant pond, about fifteen miles long by ten Avide. This lake is con- nected with Pyramid Lake by a small stream, and that in turn with Mud ]Vo. 43 Annex. Sierra Xevada Moun- tmanii'.— The large iUustration, No. 14, of the Sierras, is from a photograph, and affords a beau- tiful Tiew of the highest poiut of the Sierra Ne- vada Mouutaiua, passed over by the Central Pa- cific railroad. There are to be seen a succession of tunnels and snow-sheds, "which extend without a break for '2S miles ; below is the " Gem of the Sierras," Donner Lake. (For description, see jsages 155 and 156 of this book.) CROFUTT S XEW OVEKLAXD TOURIST 13* Lake, but only during high water, when the streams flowing into them cause tliem to spread far over tlie low, sandy waste around them. Returning to Winnemucca, we resume our journey. The road be.. rs away to the southward, skirting the low hills which extend from I he Winnemucca Mountain toward Humboldt Lake. The general aspect of the countrj'', is sage and alkali on the bottoms, and sage and bunch-grass on the blurts. Rose Creek. — comes next, 8.88 miles, and 10 2 more, Raspberry Creek— Both the last named are uniniportant stations where pas- senger trains seldom stop. They are each named after creeks near the stations, but why one should be Rose Creek and the other Raspberry Creek, we never could learn. We saw no indication of roses or raspberries at either creek. But they d" have queer names for things in this country. Where they call a Jack rabbit a " narrow gauge mule," we are prepared to hear sage-brush called roses, and grease- wood raspberries. Mill i/ity — is 7.49 miles from Rasp- beny, and has some good buildings, among which is a tine hotel, close to the track on the right — and large freight warehouses ; also cattle pens and shutes for shipping cattle, great numbers of which roam over the bottoms and adjacent blurt's. Stages leave this station on arrival of the cars for Unionville, a thrifty and promising silver mining town, 18 miles distant to thesoulh- ward. Humboldt— 11.7 miles from Mill Cit}', is a regular eating station where trains for tlie West stop 30 minutes for supper, and those for the East tlie same time for breakfast. The meals are the best on ^lie road. Hce will be found the clearest, coldest mountain spring w^ater along the road, and viewing it as it shoots up from the fountain in front of the st.ition, one quite forgets the look of desolation observable on every side, and that tliis station Is on the edge of the great Nevada Desert, It is worth the while of any tourist who wishes to examine the wonders of nature to stop here iind remain for a few diys at leas!; — for one day will not suffice — although to the careless pa«ser-by the country ap- pears devoid of interest. Those w]i> wisli to delve into nature's mysteries can here fin 1 pleasant and profitable employment. The whole sum of man's existence does not con. sist in mines, mills, merchandise and money. There are other ways of employ, lug the mind besides bending its energies to the accumulation of wealth ; there is still anotner God, miglitier than Mammon, wor- shiped by the few. Among tiie works of His hands — these barren plains, brown hills and curious lakes — the seeker after knowledge can find ample opportunities to gratify his taste. The singular formation of the soil, the lava deposits of a by-gone age, the fossil remains and marine evi- dences of past submersion, and, above all else, the grand and unsolved problem by which the waters that are continually pour- ing into this great basin are prevented from overflowing the low land around them, are objects worthy of the close attention and investigation of the scholar and philoso- plier. From this station, the noted points of the country are easy of access. Here one can observe the etlects of irri- gation on this sandy, sage-brush country. The garden at the station produces vege- tables, corn and fruittrees luxuriantly, and yet but a short time lias elapsed since it was covered with a rank growth of sage- brush. About seven milts to the northeast may be seen Star Peak, the highest point in the Humboldt Range, on which the snow con- tinues t j hold its icy sway the whole year round. Two and one-half miles southeast a' e the Humbold*^ mines — five in number — rich in gold and silver. The discovery of a borax mine near the station has been re- cently reported. Five miles to the north- west are the Lanson Meadow.-, on which are cut Immense quantities of as good grass as can be found in the country. Tliirty miles north are the new sulphur mines, where that suspicious mineral has been found in an almost pure state, and so hard that it requires to be blasted before it can be got out of the mine, and in quanti- ties sufficient to enable those operating the mine to ship from 20 to 30 car-loads a week to San Francisco. Leaving Hum- boldt, about one mile distant, on the right near the road, is another sulphur mine^ but it is undeveloped. Rye Patch— is 11.23 miles from Hum- boldt, named for a species of wild rye that grows luxuriantly on the moist ground near the station. To the left of the road, against the hilU side, is another hot spring, over who-e sur- face a cloud of vapor is generally floating^ 140 rAcinc COAST guide. The medicinal qualities of the water are highly spoken of by those who never tried them, but we could learn of no reliable analysis of its properties. To the right of the track is located a lO-stamp quartz mill, the ores for which couie from the moun- tains on the left. The Rye Piitch and El- dorado mining Districts are to the left, from live to tifteen miles distant, for which most of the supplies are hauled from this station. Oreaiia — is reached after passing over a rougii, uneven country for 10. .3 mi es. To the soutlieastward are located a num- ber of mining districts, in whicli are lo- cated a number of stamp mills and smelt- ing works. Leaving the station to the west, the long gray line of the desert is seen cbeeiless and desolate. We draw near the river again and catch occasional glimpses of narrow, green meadows, with here aud there a fiirm-house by the river-side; pass a smelting furnace and stamp mill^ on the Humboldt River — to the right, which has been dammed near by to aiibrd water power. Five miles from the station we cross a Howe truss bridge over the river, which here winds away on our left until it reaches the lake a few miles beyond. The current and volume of the river has been materially reduced since we left it at the liead of the Big Bend. IjOvelocliS— 11.86 miles from Ore- ana, derives its name from an old meadow ranche which is situated near, upon whicIi, during the summer, large quantities of hay are cut and baled for "market. Some at- tempt has been made at farming near by, but little of the country is adapted to the purpose. Cattle ar.d sheep raising is the piincipal occupation of the people— but few herds will be seen hereafter on our route. Reliable authority places the num- ber of head of stock now along the Hum- boldt River and adjacent valleys— 1878 — cattle, 35.'\000 head; sheep, 30,000 head. During the year thtreAvere shipped from tho same section to Chicago 20 car-loads of cattle, and 486 car-loads to San Francisco. Passing on over alkali beds, sand-hills and sage-brush knobs, the meadow-lands along the bottom get narrower, and finally fade from sight altogether, and we find ourselves fairly out on the Great Nevada Desert — This desert occupies the largest portion of the Ne- vada Basin. In this section, to the north- ward, is Mud Lake, Pyramid Lake, Hum- boldt, Winnemucca and Carson lakes, which receive the waters of several large rivers and numerous small creeks. As we lia\e before stated, they form a portion of that vast desert belt which constitutes the central area of tlie Nevada Basin. The desert consists of barren plains destitute of Avood or water, and low, broken hills, which afford b'lt little wood, water or grass. It is a part of that belt which can be traced througli the whole length of the State, from Oregon to Ai"izona, and far into the Interior of that Territory. Tfie Forty Mile Desert, and the barren country east of Walker's Lake, are part of this great division which extends southward, continued by those desolate plains, to the east of Silver Peak, on which the unfortu- nate Buel party suflertd so terribly in their attempt to reach the Colorado River. Throughout this vast extent of territory the same characteristics are found — evi- dences of recent volcanic action — alkaline flats, bassalt rocks, hot springs and sandj^ wastes abounding in all portions of this great belt. Although this desert is generally spoken of as a sandy waste, sand does not predom- inate. Sand bills aud flats occur at inter- vals, but the main bed of the desert is lava and clay combined — one as destitute of the power of creating or supporting vegetable life as the other. The action of the elements has covered these clay and lava deposits with a coarse dust, resembling sand, which is blown about and deposited in curious drifts and knolls by the wind. Where more of sand than clay is found, the sage-brush occasionally appears t > have obtained a faint hold of life, and bravely tries to retain it. Cilraiiite Point— a flag station, is 8.33 miles from Lovelock's. Passing on, an occasional glimpse of Humboldt Lake, which lies to "the left of the road, can be obtained, and in full view 7.65 miles fur- ther, at BrO'WJi's — This station is situated about midwaj' of the northern shore, directly opposite Humboldt Lake — Thisbody of water is about 35 miles long by ten wide, and is in reality a widening of the Humboldt River, which after coursing through 350 miles of country, empties its waters into this basin. Through this basin the water flows to the plains be3'ond liy an cmtlet at the lower end of the lake, uniting with the wafers of the sink of Carson Lake which lies about ten CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAXD TOURIST 141 miles distant. During the wet season, ■when the swollen rivers have overflowed the low lands around the lakes and united them, they form a very respectable sheet of water, about eighty miles or more in length, with a large river emptying its waters into each end ; and for this vast volume of water there is no visible outiet. Across the outlet of Humboldt Lake a dam has been erected, which has raised the water about six feet, completely oblit- erating the old emigrant road which passed close to the southern shore. The necessi- ties of mining have at length utilized the waters of the lake, and now they are em- ployed in turning the machinery of a quartz mill. In the lower end of the lake is an island — along narrow strip of land — which extends up the lake and near the northern shore. Before the dam was put in the outlet, this island was part of the main land. There are several varieties of fish in the lake, and an abundance of water-fowl during portions of the year. Leaving Brown's, and passing along the shore of the lake for a few miles, an inter- vening sand ridge hides the lake from our sight, and about eight miles west we ob- tain a hue view of the Sink of Carson Lake, which is a small body of water lying a few miles north of the main Carson Lake, and connected with that and the Humboldt dur- ing the wet season. Carson Lake lies directly south of Humboldt Lake, and is from 20 to 25 miles long, with a width of ten miles. In the winter its waters cover considerable more area, the Sink and lake being one. The Carson River empties into the south- ern end of the lake, discharging a large volume of water. What becomes of the vast body of water continually pouring into these lakes, is the problem yet un- solved. Some claim the existence of un- derground channels, and terrible stories are told of unfortunate people who have been drawn down and disappeared for- ever. These stories must be taken with much allowance. If underground chan- nels exist, why is it that the lakes, which are 10 to 15 miles apart in low water are united during the winter floods? And how is it, that when the waters have subsided from these alkaline plains, that no openings for these channels are visible? The only rational theory for the escape of the water is by evaporation. Examine each little stieam bed that you meet with; you find no water there in the summer, nor sink ho'es, yet in the winter their beds, are full until they reach the main river. The sun is so powerful on these lava plains in summer that the water evapo* rates as soon as it escapes from the cooling shadows of the hills. By acutal experi- ment it has been demonstrated that at Carson and Humboldt lakes the evapora- tion of water is equal, in the summer, to six inches every 24 hours. In the winter, when the atmosphere is more humid, evap- oration is less, consequently the waters spread over a larger area. Cakson River, which gives its name to the lake, rises in the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, south of Lake Tahoe and opposite the liead waters of the American River. From its source to its mouth is about 150 to 200 miles by the riv- er's course. From its source its course is about due north for about 75 miles, when it turns to the east, and follows that direction until it enters the lake. Under the general name of Carson Val- ley, the land bordering the river has long been celebrated as being one of the best farming sections in the State. The thriv- ing towns of Carson City and Genoa are situated in the valley, though that portion around Carson City is frequently designa- ted as Eagle Valley. The upper portion, from Carson to the foothills, is veiy fertile, and yields handsome crops of vegetables, though irrigation is necessary to insure a good yield. In some portions the small grains are successfully cultivated, and on the low lands an abundant crop of grass is produced. The valley is thickly settled, the arable land being mostly occupied. South and west of the head waters of Car- son River, the head waters of Walker's River find their source. The west fork of Walker's River rises within a few miles of the eastern branches of the Carson. The east fork of Walker's River runs due north until joined by the west fork, when the course of the river is east for about forty miles, when it turns to the south, following that direction until it readies Walker's Lake, about forty miles south of the sink of the Carson, having traversed in its tortu- ous course about 140 miles. In the val- leys, which are found at intervals along the rivers, occasional spots of arable land are found, but as an agricultural country the valley of Walker's River is not a success. Walker Lake is about 45 miles long by 20 miles wide. Like all the lakes in tlie basin, it has no outlet. The water is 142 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. brackish and strongly impregnated with alkali. The geueraf characteristics of the other lakes in the great basin belong to this also ; the description of one embracing all points belonging lo the others. Wliite^Plaiiis— is 12.17 miles west of Brown's. This station is the low- est elevation on the Central Pacific railroad east of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. As indicated by the name, the plains imme- diately around the station are white with alkali, solid beds of which slope away to the sinks of Carson and Humboldt lakes. No vegetation meets the eye when gazing on the vast expanse of dirty white alkali. The sun's rays seem to fall perpendicularly down on this bari'en scene, burning and withering, as though they would crush out any attempt wjiich nature might make to introduce vegetable life. The waterlo fill tlie big tank at the sta- tion is pumped from tlie " Sink " by means of a stationary engine, which is situated about midwa}^ between the station and the Sink. Mirage— is 7.96 miles from White Plains. This station is named for that cu- rious phenomenon, the mirage (meerazh) which is often witnessed on the desert. In early days the toil-worn emigrant, when urging his weary team across the cheerless desert, has often had his heart lightened by the sight of clear, running streams, waving trees and broad, green meadows, wliich appealed to be but a little distance away. Often has the unwary traveler turned aside from his true course and fol- lowed the vision for weary miles, only to learn that he had followed a phantom, a wiil-o'-the-wisp. What causes these optical delusions no one can tell, at least we never heard of a satisfactory reason being given for the ap- pearance of the phenomenon. We have seen the green fields, the leafy trees and llie running waters; we have seen tliem all near by, as bright and beautiful as though they really existed, where they appeared too, in the midst of desolation, and we have seen them vanish at our approach. Who knows how many luckless travelers have followed these visions, until, overcome with thirst and heat, they laid down to die on the burning sands, far from the cooling shade of the trees they might never reach; far from the music of running waters, which they might hear no more. Onward we go, reclining on the soft cushions of the elegant palace car, thirty miles an hour; rolling over the alkali and gray lava beds, scarcely giving a thouglit to tliose who, in early days, suf- fered so fearfully while crossing these plains, and, perchance, left their bones to bleach and whiten upon these barren sand s. Hot j^pring!^ — is 6.57 miles west of Mirage. Here, to the right of the road, can be seen more of these bubbling, spurting curiosities — these escape pipes, or safety valves for the discharge of the super-abun- dant steam inside the globe, which are scattered over the great basin. Extensive salt works are located at this station, from which a car-load or more of salt is shipped daily. The salt springs are about four miles west of the station. The Saxon American Borax Co. have erected woi'ks here which cost about $200,- 000. They are situated a half-mile south of the station, in plain view. Passing on, we find no change to note, unless it be that the beds of alkali are oc- casionally intermixed with brown jiatches of lava and sand. A few bunches of stunted sage-brush occasionally break the monotony of the scene. It is worthy of notice thatthis hardy shrub is never found growing singly and alone. The reason for Tt is evident. No single shrub could ever maintain an existence here. It must have help ; consequently we find it in clumps for mutual aid and protection. Desert — is 11.7 miles from Hot Springs. This is, indeed, a desert. In the next 5197 miles, we gain about 100 feet alti- tude, pass Two Mile Station, descend 82 feet in the next 2.37 miles, and arrive at \%''aclswortli — This town is situated on tlie east bank of the Truckee River and the western border of the desert, and con- tains some good buildings, and a pojaula- tiou of about 600. The division workshops are located here, and consist of a round-house of 20 stalls, car, machine and blacksmith shops. Adjoining the workshops, a piece of land has been fenced in, set out with trees, a fountain erected, and a sward formed, by sowing grass-seed and irrigating it — mak- ing a beautiful little oasis. Considerable freight is shipped from this station to min- ing camps to the south. Pine Grove Copper Mines lies six miles south of the town. They attract little at- tention, that mineral not being much sought after. Ten miles south are the Desert mines, which consist of gold-bear- CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 143 SNOW SHEDS — SEE PAGE 15t iug quartz lodes. Some of the mines there are considered very rich. Ninety miles south, at Columbus, are located tlue famous Borax mines of Nevada, said to be very rich. The Piute In- dians have two reservations; one is situa'cd eighteen miles northward, and another to the southeast, at Walker Lake. Leaving Wadsworth,we cross the Truc- kee River, on a Howe truss bridge, our course being to the southwest. This stream rises in Lakes T a h o e and Donner, which lie at the east- ern ba'e of the ^leiras, about bO lailes dis- tant From its souice in Lake I : that course until it reaches I tlu^ place, ^\here it turns noith about 25 I miles, branch- es low-off cock, for removing any sediment that might accu- mulate, and at each elevation is an air- cock to let out the air when the Avater is first introduced into the ] >ipes. Where the Avater pipe runs under the railroad trai'lc. it is surrounded by a massive iron sleeve, ^^.^ ,- ^12 feet long, to ])roteet it from the jar of ' ^\',\\\Q Reporter— Q-Aw now be liad on the right; curving arouud t) the left, we come to the American Fhit tunnel, 900 feet long. It was at this timuel where a thrill- ing incident occurred, Octol)er 17, 1872. (See Annex No. 31.) The lire alluded to in tlie annex cost the Eailroad Company $500,000. It took two mouths to replace the timbering, during which time all passengers, freight, mails and express, had to be transferred by teams. Passing through the tunnel, Mt. David- son looms up directly ahead, 7,827 feet above sea-level ; to the right is Gold Hill — tar away, in a narrow canyon. The train runs around the side ot the mountain, de- scribing a great curve to the north and eastward, passmg numerous mills, among which are tlie Eock Island, down on the right; the Baltimore, a track to the Over- man, the Knickerbocker, Belcher, Baltic, and many other mills, both on the right and left, ! nd finally crossover a huge mill, and oue of the principal streets of the city of Gold Hill, Avhich extends to the left up a narrow canyon, and stops at the depot in the city of Gold Hill — This is a flourishing min- ing city, 19 miles froni Carson aid two from Virginia; populalion, 0,000. It con- sists mostly of one main street, built along a steep ravine. The city has some good buildings, among which are one good hotel, the Vesey House ; iiud one daily news- paper, the Gold Hill News. The cit^ is sur- rounded with mills of all sorts, sizes and kinds, and all is noise and busimss night and day. The street between Gold Hill and Virginia is so generally built up that one cannot tell where the dividing line is between them. An omnibus line plies be- tween the two cities, running every fifteen minutes. Passing on from Gold Hill two miles, around sliarp curves, through three short tunnels in quick successirm, with mills to the right, mills to the left, and mills all around us, we arrive at T irgiiiia City— This city is on the southeastern slope of Mt. Davidson, at an elevation of 6,200 feet, with the mountain rising 1,627 feet above it. The city is built along the side ( f the mountain — one main street, with numerous steep cross-streets — and contains some very flue business blocks. Virginia is 21 miles from Carson, and 52 miles by rail, fiom Eeno, and contains a populat"ion of about 16,000, a great propor- tion of whom are engaged in mining op- CKOFUTT S NEW OVEKLANI) TOUKIST 149 eratious immediately under the citj, from 1,500 to 2,200 feet. Tlie Enterprise and tlie Chronicle — botli daily aud weekly papei's — are published here. The religious and edueatiou-al interests are well represented by churches ami schools. There arc a number of hotels in the city, at which the traveler Avill find ^ajod ac- commodations. The Inteknational is the principal one. At both Virginia and Gold PIill, are located great numbers of smelling furnaces, reduction works aud stamp mills, a'l thun- dering away, night and day. The fires from these works, at night, light up with a lurid glare all surrounding objects. There are no two cities in thewoikl more ccs- mopolitan; here, meet f.nd jostle, the peo- ple from every land and clime; the rich and the poor; the miser and the spend- thrift; the morose and jolly. Sdf l^cve predominates. " Rich to-day, poor to- morrow," is the rule. All gamble in min- ing stocks, from the boot-black ( r servant girl to the Rev. ]\Ir. Whitetie, or the Bo- nanza-Nabob. The whole people are alive to each movement of the "stock indica- tors," as much as the " Snowballs " were in Baltimore tweut3'-five years ago on the lottery and policy business; 4-1 1-4 L waj their go:l; the tick of the "indicator" is the god of this people. The saying that "It is not birth, nor wealth, nor State — its git up aud git that makes men great," has been thoroughly demonstrated by many ot the citizens ot Virginia Citj^ and Gold Hill. Eakly History — The first gold mines were discovered in 1857, by Joe Kirby, and some others, who commenced mining in Gold Canyon (Gold Hill), and continued working the place with iudiflierent success until 1859. The first Cjuartz claim was lo- cated by James JFinncy, better known as " Old A irginia," on the 22d of February, 1858, in the Virginia mining district aud on the "Virgini'a Croppings." The old prospector gave his name to the city, crop- pings and district. In June, 1859, rich de- posits of silver ore were discovered by Peter O'Reilly and Patrick McLaughlin, on what is now the ground of the Ophir Mining Company. They were engaged in gold washing, and uncovered a rich vein of sulphuret of silver, when engaged in excavating a place wherein to catcdi^x sup- ply of water for their rockers. The dis- covery was made on ground claimed by Kirby and others. A Mr. Comstock was employed t ) purchase the claims of Kirby and those holding with him, hence, Com- stock's name was given to the lode. The Comstock Lode— is about four miles in length, the out-croppings extend- ing in a broad belt along the mountain side. It extends under Virginia City and Gold Hill; the ground on which these cities are built being all " honej^-t ombed " or undermined ; in fact, the whole moun- tain is a series of shafts, tunnels and cav- erns from which the ore has been taken. The vein is broken aud irregular at inter- vals along its length as far as traced, owing to the formation of the mountain. It is also very irregular in thickness. In some places liie fissure ranges from 30 to as high as 200 feet in width, while at other points the walls come close together. The great- est variation in width occurs at a depth of from 400 to 600 ftet from the surface. The principal silver ores of this lode are steph- anite, vitreous silver ore, native silver and very rich galena. Pyrargyrite, or ruby silver, horn silver aud polybasite, are found in small quantities, together with iron and copper pj^ritcs, zinc-blende, car- bonate of lead, pyromorphite and native gold. The number of mills in and around Gold Hill and Virginia, and at other points, Avliich work on ore from this lode, is be- tween 75 and 80. They are scattered around through several couaties, including Storey (where the lode lies), Lyon, "Washoe and Ormsbj', from 30 to 40 in number being in Storey county. The product of the Com- stock lode has been beyoud that of any silver vein of which we have any record ; furnishing the largest portion of bullion produced on the Pacific Slope. But let VIS return to Reno before we get to watching the "indicator:" and start once more for the West. Leaving Reno, our course is south of west, up Truckee River. The liills are KoTE.— stop ovor Pr;vi>g-<*'s- Tasseu- gers traveling on unlimited I'irst-Class Tickets, y;h.o are desirous of securing a full daylight view of the tconderful scenery ou the Sierra, Nevada Mountains, can now do bo. The "Pacific Express" arrives at Keno [see page 144] for sup- per, at 8 :20 p. m. Passengers can stop over night at the hotnl, and take the "Reno & Sau Francisco Express" next morning, [Sundays ex- cf>pted] at 0:15; reach Truckee at 8:10; Sum- mit, 9 :00 ; Cape Horn, 11 :'20 ; Sacramento, 2 :10 p. m. ; Benicia, 4 :53, and Sau Francisco at 7 :05 p. m. Only 71.3 hours later than the regular Pacific Exi-i-ess. 150 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. loftier, and -were— at the time the railroad with here and there a party of lumbermen ■was built — covered wiih d.nse pine for csts ; uuw, only stumps and rocks appear, with very little undergrowth. As we enter the Truckee Canyon, we seem to lave en- tered a cooler, pleasanter, and more invig- orating atmosphere. The aroma of the spruce and pine, which comes with the mountain breeze, is pleasant when com- pared with that of the alkali plains. Ver«Ii — is the first station from Reno, 10.48 miles. Passing on, up, 1.23 miles brings us to a new side-track station called Essex. — which we pass; continuing along the river, with its foaming current now on our left, first ou one side, then on the other, runs this beautiful stream unnl W.3 lose sight of it altogether. The road crosses and re-crosses it on fine Howe truss bridges, running as straight as the course of the mountains will permit. The moun- tains tower up on either hand, in places sloping and covered in places with timber from base to summit, in others precipitous, working them down to the mills. A great qu'-tntity of ice is cut and housed here, and an extensive beer brewery erected. The Truckee Kiver, from Reno to its mountain source, is a very rapid stream, and att"ords dam-sites and mill-sites innu- merable; yet, it is related that some years ago, before the completion of the Pacific railroad, a certain Indian agent, who is now an E.x-U. S. Senator, clTarged up to the Government an " item " of §40.000, as being the purchase-mouey for a mill-site on the Truckee, near a dam site. Some hungry aspirant for official posi- tion, who had a hank< ring after the "loaves and fishes," exposed the "item," and a committee was sent out from Washington to investigate the matter. This committee, went out by " Overland Stage," had a good time, traversed the country in every dii-ec- tion, explored the river thoroughly, from the De.sert to Lake Tahoe, and reported that they could find numberless dam-sites by mill-sites, but could not find a mill by and covered with masses of black, broken rock. 'Tis a rough country, the canyon of a dam-site, the Trunkee, pos^sessing rnany grand and j From Boca it is 1.57 miles to imposing features. _ Prosser Creek — Here is a long "Y" On the roail up we pass a new station I flume for the accommodation of the lum- call' d bermen, and where large quantities of ice Mystic — 5.11 miles from Essex, and four miles further Bronco — another side-track. Occa- is cut and stored for market. Another run of 4.1 miles and the train passes Proctors — and 2.70 miles more and sional strips of meadow land are seen : our train comes to the end of the Truckee close to the liver's edge, but too small and rocky to be of any use, only as grazing land. Now we cross the dividing line, and shout division, atTruckte City. Trnckee City— This place is situ- ated on the north bank of the Truckee River, in the midst of what was once a heavily limbered region, much of which has been cut olf. The principal business of the place is lumbering, though an ex- tensive freighting business is carried on with other points in the mountains. One can hardly get around the town for the piles of lumber, ties and wood, which cover ihe ground in every direction, home fine stores and a good hotel are the only build. nirs which can lay claim to size and finish corresponding with the growth and business of the place. The town is com- as we enter California, a few miles east of' posed of wooden biiildings, mostly on the Boca— a small .station 5.7 miles from ; north side of the railroad. Bronco. The lumber interest is well rep- 1 The very sharp roofs of the buildings resented here, huee piles of ties, boards ] point out the fact that the snow falls deep and timber lininglthe roadside. The river : and moist here, sufficieutly so to crush m seems to be the means of tran.sportation for I the roofs— unless they are very sharp and the saw logs, immense numbers of them stronsr. The town contains about 2.000 in- being scattered up and down the stream, habitants, nearly all of whom are directly AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 151 or indirectly con- nected with the lumber trade. The educational ^ interests have ^ been provided for, |: Nevada county, in H w h i c h Truckee [a City is situated, be- =,-1 ins justly celebra- s# ted "for her public a schools. The Truckee House is the head- quarters of the tourists who stop over to visit ob- jects of interest in this locality. This station is the end of the Truckee and the commence- ment of the Sacra- mento division. The company have a 2 4 - s t a 1 1 round-house and the usual machine and repair shops of a division loca- ted here. A line of stages leaves Truckee dai- Iv for Donner Lake, two miles : Lake Tahoe, 12 miles; Sierraville. ad miles. A good wagon-road connects Sierra City with Truckee, via the Henness Pass and Donner Lake. Freight is reshipped here for Don- ner and Tahoe Lakes, Sierraville and the various towns in the Sierra Yal- lev. There are some wholesale and OVERLAID PONY EXPKESS— 5ee Footnote. retail houses in Truckee, which do a large business. Lake Tahoe, or Bigler, as it is call- ed on some of the official maps, is lo- cated 12 miles south of Truckee. Ta- hoe is an Indian name, signifying "big water," and is pronounced by the Indians " Tah-00," while the "pale-faces" pronounce it "Ta-hoe." From Truckee a splendid road af- Xit. 41 Anxhx. The Pony Kxpress— -was an enterprise started in IS^GO, by Majors, Rus- sell & Co., of lieavenworth, Kan., to meet the pressing business wants of tlie Pacific Coast. It will be remembered that the xisual time made on the mail service, by steamer, between New York and San Francisco, was about twenty-six days. The first Overlaml mail— which arrived in San Francisco Oct. 10th, ISoS — carried it from St. Louis . Mo. .via Los Angeles, in twenty -three days, twenty-one hours. The Pony Express— yfhich left St. Joseph. Mo., and San Francisco, simul- taneonsly, Ayiril IJd, 1>^00 — succeeded in ti-ans- portiug it through safely, on its first triy), in ten days ; on its second, in 14 days ; third, nine days ; fourth, t?n days ; fifth nine days ; sixth, nine days ;— a distance of 1,95H> miles. This rapid ti'ansmissioLof business con-esiiondence was of incalculable value to business men in those days. This ser\-ice, we can readily see, i-equired cour- age and endurance, as well as enterprise and the expenditnre of Iwge sums of money. The mo- ment the fen-y boat touched land on the oxniosite shore, the Pony Expressman mounted his horse ; and by day or by night, in starlight or darkness ; whether sun-dried or soaked, snow-covered or frozen ; among friends or through foes ; be he lonely or merry — onward he hastenth, until, at the thrice-welcomed station, he leaped from his saddle to rest. Here another was ready, whose horse, like himself, had been waiting, jierhaps, without shelter ; nnd with a cheery "Good-night, boys," he galloped oft", and was soon lost in the distance. He rides on alone, over prairies and mountains ; whether up hill or down ; on rough gi'ound or smooth, until he descries in the dis- tance the goal of his hopes, and the station is reached. To tell of the losses iu men from the In- dians, and of horses and other property, both from volunteers as well as Indians, with the many thrilling adventures of those who jiai-tici- pated in this dai-ing enterprise, however in^ teresting, would make too long a recital for these pages. 152 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. FIRST WELLS, FARGO & CO.'S EXPRESS OVER THE MOUNTAINS. fords one of the best and most pleasant drives to be found in the State. Tlie road follows the river bank, under the shade of waving pines, or across green meadows until it reaches Tahoe Citv, at the foot of the lake. Here are excellent ac ommoda- tions for travelers — a good hotel, boats, and a -well-stncked stable. According to llie survey of the State line. Lake Tahoe lies in two States and five counties. The line between ( aliforniaand Nevada runs north and south through the lake, until itreaclu s a certain point therein, when it changes to a course 17 degs. east of south. Thus the counties of El Dorado and Placer, in California, and Washoe, Ormsby and Douglas, in Nevada, all share in the waters of the Tahoe. Where the line was surveyed through the lake it is 1,700 feet deep. There are three steamboats on the lake' but only one, the "Stanford," takes ex- cursionists. The trip on this steamer is very fi' e, but for our persvial use, not the way we like to travel for sight-.seeing, at this, the loveliest of all drives in the world. Our choice, is a good saddle animal, or a good team of horses, an agreeable com- panion, and start around the western shore, tsix miles from Tahoe, over a beautiful road, we reach Sugar Pine Point, a spur of mountains covered with a splendid forest of sugar pine, the most valuable lumber, for ail uses, found on the Pacific coast. Tliere^ are fine streams running into the lake on each side of the point. We now arrive at Emerald Bay, a beautiful, placid inlet, two miles long, which seems to hide itself among the pine-clad hills. It is not over 400 yards wide at its mouth, but CROFUTT S KEW OVERLAND TOURIST 153 widens to two miles inland, forming one of the prettiest land-locked harbors in the world. It is owned by Ben Holiday. At the south end of Talioe, near the site of the Old Lake House, near Tallac Point, Lake Valley Creek enters the lake, having wiiund among the hills for many miles since it left the springs and snows which leed it. The valley of Lake Creek is one of the loveliest to be found among the Sierras. The whole distance, from the mountain slope to the lake, is one continual series of verdant meadows, dotted with milk ranches, where the choicest butter and cheese are manufactured. The next ob- ject of interest met witn is a relic of the palmy dajs of staging: Friday Station, an old stage station, established by Burke in 1859, on the Placer- ville and Tahoe stage road. Ten miles further on we come to Uie Glenbrook House a favorite resort for tourists. Frim Glen- brook House thei-e Is a fine road to Carson City, between which ply regular stages. This is alovely place, and a business place too, as a half-dozen saw n ills are located here, which turn out a million and a half feet of lumbi r weekly. Four miles further we come to The Cave, a cavern in the hillside fully 100 feet above and overhanging the lake. Following around to the north end of the lake, and but a short distance away, aie the celebrated Hot Springs, lying just across the State line, in Nevada. Near them is a splendid spring of clear, cold water, totally devoid (f miweral taste. The next object which attracts our attention is Cornelian Bay, a beautiful indeuiure in the coast, with fine gravel bottom. Thus far there has been scarcely a point from which the descent to the water's edge is not smooth and eas}-. Passing on around to the westsidewe re- turn to Tahoe City. Around the lake the land is generally level for some distance back, and covered with i>ine, fir and bal- sam timber, embracing at least 800 sections of as fine timbered land as the State affords. It is easy of acccs? and handy to Biarket, the logs being rafted down the lake to the Truckee, and thence down to any point on the railroad above Reno. So much for the general appearance of Lake Tahoe. To understand its beauties, one must go there and spend a short time. "When once there, sailina; on the beautiful lake, gazing far down its shining, pebbly bottom, hooking the sparkling trout that make the pole sway and bend in the hand like a willow wand, few will have a desire to hurry away, if one tires of the line and of strolling along the beach, or sailing over the lake, a tramp into the hills with a gun will be rewarded by the si'gJit of quail, grouse, deer and possibly a bear. We have now circled .the lake and can judge of its dimensions, which are 22 miles in length and ten in width. AVhile on a recent visit to San Fran- cisco, we learned, on good authority, that a movement was on foot, iiri ed by several capitalists in that city, to build a large hotel at Tallac Point during the j'ear,from which a stage line will convey passengers over the High Sierras, via Hope Valley and Blue Lake, to the Calavera Big Trees; distance 65 miles; fare, about $20. This would certainly be a lovely trip, passing as it does, through the grandest of the High Sierra range, and to the noted Blue Lake, so long talked about as the great reservoir from which the City of San Francisco is to be supplied with water in the future. For scenery, variety of game, trout, etc., this route will be found very attra tive. We will now return to Truckee. DoNNER Lake— a lovely little lakelet, the "Gem of the Sierras," "lies two and a half miles northwest of Truckee. It is about three and a half miles long, with an average width of one mile, and at the deep- est point sounded, is about 200 feet. This and Lake Tahoe are, by some, thought to be the ( raters of old volcanoes, the moun- tains around them presenting unmistak- able evidences of volcanic formation. The waters of both lakes are cold and clear as crystal, the bottom showing every pebble with great distinctness under water 50 feet deep. It is surrounded on three sid(S by towering mountains, covered with a heavy growth of fir, spruce and pine trees of im- mense size. Were it not for the occasional rattling of the cars, away up the mountain side, as they toil upward to the " Summit," and the few cabins scattered here and there along the shore, one ■would fancy that he was in one of nature's secret retreats, where man had never ventured before. A small stream, which tumbles down the mountain side, winds its way through the dense wood, and empties its ice-cold flood in the upper end or head of the lake, which rests against the foot of "Summit" Mountain. From the Lake House, situated as it is on a low, gravelly flat, shaded by giant j^ines, 154 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. a very flue view of fhc ra'.lroad can l)e ob- laiiicd. Williin sight are four timncls and several miles of snow-sheds, while behind and seemingly overhanging the road, the mountains — ba^d, bleak, bare, massive pile^ of granite— tower far ab3ve their prec ipitous sides, seeming to bid defiance to the ravages of time. A fine road has been graded along the right-hand shore, from the station, forming a splendid drive. The " old emigrant road" skirts the foot of the lake (where the Douner party per- ished, see A>xEX No. C3), and following up the stage road, climbs the " Summit " just beyond the long tunnel. Originally, it iitruck the Divide at Summit Yallcy; from thence it followed the valley down for several miles, then struck across the crest- spur, and followed the Divide down from Emigrant Gap. The business of lumbering is carried on quite extensively at tlie lower end of the lake. The logs are slid down the moun- tain sides in"" shoots," or troughs made of large trees, into the lake, and then rafted down to the mill. On the west side of the lake the timber has nt-t been disturbed, but sweej^s down from the railroad to the water's edge in one dense imbroken forest. The lower'eud of the lake is bordered with green meadows, covering an extent of several hundred acres of line grazing land. Fro;n the foot of the lake issues a beautiful creek, which, after uniting with Coldstream, forms the Little Truckee River Coldstream — is a clear, cold mountain stream, about fifteen miles long. It rises in the "Summit" Mountain, opposite Summit A^alley. Some excellent grazing laud borders the creek after it leaves the mountain gorge. Fishing akd Hunting— In Donner and Tahoe lakes is found the silA-er trout, which attains the Aveight of 20 pounds. Tliere are many varieties of fish in these lakes,but this is most prized and most sought after by the angler. It is rare sport to bring to the Avater's edge one of these sleek-hided, sharp'biting fellows — to handle him delicately and daintily until he is safely landed ; and then, Avhen fried, baked, or broiled brown, the employment of the jaws to masticate the crisp, juicy morsels — it's not bad jawing. Tlie water near the lake shore is fairly alive Avith white fish, dace, rock-fish, and several other varieties — the trout keeping in deeper water. There is no more favorite resort for the angler and hunter than these lakes and the surround- ing mountains, where quail, grouse, deer, and bear abound. These lakes Avere once a favorite resort for the "San Francisco schoolmarms," AA'ho annually A'isit thii locality during the summer vacation. The Railroad Company generally passed them OA-er the route, and they hatl a happy Aveek — romping, scram- bling and wandering OA'er the mountains, and along the lake shore, giving ncAV life and animation to the scene. The graj^ old hills and mighty forests re-echo witli their merry laughter, as they stroll around the lake, gathering flowers and mosses, or, per- haps, essaying their skid as anglers, to the great slaughter of the finny inhabitants of tiie lake. Sierra Valley — lies about 30 miles from Truckee City, among the Sierras, It is about 40 miks long, with a Avidth of from five to seven miles. It is fertile, thickly settled, and taken in connection Avith some other mountain valleys, might be termed the Orange c'ounty of Calilbrnia — from the quantity and cpialitj^ of butter and cheese manufactured there. In the mountain A'alleys and on the table-lands the best butter" and cheese found in the State are manufactured— the low valleys being too warm, and the grasses and Avater not so good as found here. In Sierra, and many other mountain A-alley.s, good crops of grain and vegetables are grown in favorable seasons, but the surest and most Ijrofitable business is dairying. The flourishing tOAvn of Royalton is situated in this vallc}'. Honey Lake — an almost circular sheet of water, about ten miles in diameter, lies ab'ait 50 miles north of Truckee City. Willow Creek and Susan Creek enter it at the north, while Lone Valley Creek empties its waters into the southern por- tion cf the lake. Some fine meadoAv and grazing land is found in the valleys bordering these streams, which has been occupied by settlers, and couA-erted into flourishing farms. Susanviile, the^ principal town in the valley, is situated north ( f the lake. It is connected by stage with Reno, Nevada, and Oroville, California. We now take leave of Truckee City and its surroundings, and prepare to cross tlie "Summit of the Sierras," 14 miles dis- tant. With two locomotives leading, we cross the North Fork or Little Truckee on a single-span Howe truss bridge, and make CKOFUTT S XEAV aVEKLAXD TOUniST 155 . directly aci'oss the broken land bordering the Ifike meadows, for the foot of tlie Sierras. Then skirting along the hill-side, through long snow sheds, with the spark- ling Coldstream on our right, winding through the grassey valley and among waving ])ines, lor 0.52 miles, we pass {Strong's Canyon — and bend, around the southern end of the valley, which borders DouuerLake, then crossing Coldstream, commence the ascent of the mountains. Soon after passing this side- track, our train enters a snow shed, which — with a number of tunnels, — is continuous for ticenty-cight mile-, Avilh but a few " ])eek-holes," through which to get a glimpse at the beaulilul scenery along this part of the route — yet, we shall de- scribe it, all the s me. As the train skirts the eastera base, rising higher and higher, Donncr Lake is far below, looking like a lake of silver set in the shadows of green forests and brown mountains. Up still, the long, black Ihie of the load bending around and seemingly stealing away in the same direction in which we are moving, though far below us, jioiuts out the wind- ing course we have followed. Up, still up, higher and higher toils the train, through the long line of snow-sheds leading to the first tunnel, while the loco- motives are snorting an angry defiance as they enter the gloomy, rock-bound chamber. SSuniiuit — is 14.31 miles wi st of Truckee, the highest point on the Sierra Nevada Mountains, passed over by the Central Pacific railroad, 7,017 feet above the level of the sea. Distance from Omaha, 1,GG0 miles ; from San Francisco, 245 miles. This is not the highest Ijnd of the Sierra Nevada ^Mountains, by any means, for bleak and bare of vendure, rise the granite l)eaks around us, to an altitude of over 10,000 feet. Piles of granite— their weather- stained and moss-clad sides glistening in the morning sun — rise between us and the " western shore," hiding from our siglitthe vast expanse of plain tliat we know lies be- tween us and the golden shores of the Pacific Ocean. Scattering groups of hardy fir and spruce, line tho mountain gorges, where rest the everlasting snows that have rested in the deep shady gu ches, near the summit of these towering old mountains — who can tell how- long V They have lain, evidently, s'nce Adam w^as a very small boy, or the tree sjnouted from which our apple-loving ancestor, Eve, plucked thai bede\iied fruit. We are on the dividing ridges which, separate the head-waters of several moun- tain rivers, which, l)y different and tor- tuous courses, find at last the s ime common receptacle for their snow-fed wa'ers-the- Sacramento River. Close to our right, far down in that fir-clad gorge, the waters- of the South Yuba leap aud'dance along, amid dense ai;d gloomy forests, and over almost countless rapids, cascat es and waterfalls. This stream heads against and far np the Summit, one branch crossing the road at the next station. Cascade. After passing Cisco, the head waters of Bear KivLr can l;e seen lying between the Divide and the Yuba, whicli winds away be- yond, out of sight, behind anoher mountain ridge. Farther on still, and Ave find the American River on our left. These streams- reach the same ending the Sacramento River but ai'e far apa't, whire they mingle with that stream. There is no grander scenery in the Sierras, of towering mountains, deep gorges, lofty precipices, sparkling water- falls and crystal lakes, than abound withia an eas/ distance! of this place. The tourist can find scenes of the deepest interest and grandest beau1\-;the scholar and philoso- pher, objects of rare value for scientific in- vestigation ; the hunter and the angler can find an almost UDlimitcd fiekl for his amusement; the former in the gorges of the mountains, where the timid detn- and fierce grizzly bear make their homes; the latter among the mountain lakes atd streams, where the speckle I trout leaps in its joyous I'reedom, Avhile around all, is the music of snow-led mountain torrent and mountain breeze, and over all is the clcai- blue sky rf a sunny clime, tempered and sofiened' by the shadows of the everlasting hills. TuxNELS AND Snow^-Sheds — From the time theroad enters the cret^ts of the " Sum- mit," it passes through a succession of tun- nels and snow-sheds so closely connected that th.; traveler can hardly tell when V e cars enter or leave a tunuel."^ The Su'i mit tunnel, the longest of the number, is 1,659 feet long, the others ranging iVom lOO to 870 feet In length. The snow-sheds are solid structures, built of sawed and round timber, completely roofing In the road Ihr many miles Csee- illustration, pp. 72-67-143). AVhen theroad was completed, there were 23 miles of shed built, at an actual cost of .f 10,000 per mile. With the additions since made, the line reaches about 45 miles, which includes the- 156 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. •whole length of the deep fnow line on the ■dividing ridge. When we consider that along tlie summit the snow falls from IG to :20 feet deep during a wet winter, we can imagine the necessity and importance of these structures. By this means the track is as clear from snow in the winter as are the valleys. The mighty avalanches which sweep down the mountain sides in spring, bearing everything before them, pass over the si ^ping roofs of the sheds and plunge into the chasms below, while beneath tlie rushing mass the cars glide smoi thly idong, Ihe passengers hardly knowiog but that ll hey are in the midst of an enormous tunnel. Where the road lies clear on the divide or level land, the sheds have sharp roofs, like those of any buildmg calculated to withstand a great weight of snow. But where the road is built against the side of these bare peaks, the roof of the shed can have but one slope, and that must reach the mountain side, to enable the " snow-slides" to cross the road without doing harm to that or the passing trains. (See illustration, pages, 67 and 143.) Fires sometimes canse damage to sheds and road, but seldom any delay to the trains, as the conipauy have materials of all kinds on hand for any emergency, and, with their swarm of men, can replace everything almost a^ quick as it is de- stroyed; but, to tarther protect the snow- sheds and bridges from tire, and the more etiectually to extinguish them, the Railroad Company have stationed the locomotive Grey Eagle at the Summit (with ster.m al- ways up and ready to answer a summons), with a force pump of large capacity, sup- plied with steam from the engine. At- tached to the locomotive are eight water cars, the tanks on which are connected with each other and with the tender of the engine, so that the supply of water will al- ways be sufficient to check any ordinary fire. The Summit House, located at the sta- tion, is one of the best hotels on the road and can furnish tourists with every accom- modation required, while, spendiug a few days or weeks exploring tbis very inter- esting region. Passengers from the West, desiring to visit Lake Tahoe, can take a stage at the Summit House, which will afford them a line view of Donner Lake, white rolling down the mountain and around to the north and east side of it, en route to Tahoe. Returning, those who choose, can take the cars for the East, at Truckee, without re- turning to the Summit. Fare for the " round trip," $G.UO. Leaving tlie Summit, we pass on through the long shed, and tunnels alternately, around the base of towering peaks anon over high, bare ridges, then through grand old forests, for 5.77 miles to Cascade — Here we cross one of the branches of the Yuba, which goes leaping down the rocks in a sho\ver of spray dur- ing the summer, bnt in the winter the chasm shows naught but a bed of snow and ice. Summit valley, one of the loftiest of the Siena valleys, lies to the west, abroad, grassy meadow, dotted with trees and ly- ing between two lofty mountains, about two miles long by one mile wide. It is covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, affording pasturage tor large bauds of cat- fe, duiing the summer. It is ail occupied by dairymen and stock raisers, at whose comfortable dwellings the tourist will find a hearty welcome. It is a delightful sum- mer retreat; a favorite resort for those wlio prefer the mountains, with their cool breezes and pure water. The valley is watered by many springs and snow-fed rivulets, \\hose waters flow to the Ameri- can River. This valley is becoming noted in a busi- ness point of view, as well as being a place of summer resort. It is becoming cele- brated as a meat packing station, it having b en demonstrated that pork and beef can be successfully cured here during any portion of the year. Soda Springs — are situated near the foot of Summit Valley, their waters unit- ing with others, forming the head waters of the American River. The springs are very large and numerous, and the water is pronoun'ced to be the best medicinal water in the State. It is a delightful drink, cool and sparkling, possessing the taste of the best quality of manufactured soda water. The larger of the springs have been im- proved, and great quantities of the water are now bottled and shipped to all parts of the Siale. Near the Soda Springs are others, the waters of which are devoid of mineral or aciduous taste, and boiling hot. In the summer these springs are much re- soried to by people from the "Bay." There is a comfortable hotel at the Springs which is reached from the Summit by stage, and sometimes at a side- track, called " Soda CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 157 Spring S ation," uudway between Sum- mit and Cascade staiions. Tainerack — is tlic next station, 4.2 miiCs from Cascade, and 3.51 miles from Cisco— At one time this Ava^ quite an important place, being the "terminus" during the time occupied in tunneling through the summit ; VEnLAXI) TOUniST 163 digging overtlie old claims, note the young piue-;, and the long "Y" flume which brings lumber from the mountains to the east- ward twelve miles, and climb up to the Town-Talk Tunnel, 450 feet long; elevation 2,774 feet; and then descend, passing old mills and new mills, a portion of the city of Nevada, away acr ss on the oppo- site side of the mountain, peacefully re- posing — probably all unconscious of our near approach. On the descent to the city, we pass the New England mill on the left, and the Pittsburgh mill on the right; then cross a bridge 450 feet long over Gold Run Creek, where considerable placer mining is still being done, and after a run of live and a half miles from Grass Valley, arrive at Xevarta — This city is the county seat of Nevada county, situated on Deer Creek, a rapid stream w ith rugged canyon walls, and contains a population of about 4,300. There Are here seven stamp mills, agrega- ting 110 stamps, two de-sulphurizing "works, and, when sufficient water cau be had for ihe purpose, an extensive business is carried on in hj-draulic mining. The place is rather irregularlj- laid out, owing to the formation of tlie land and the creek which runs through a portion of the the town. There are some good business blocks, good county buildings, several hotels, of which the principal is the Union ; one daily newspaper, the Transoript; and one weekly, the Qasctte. There are some very nice private residences, suri-oundcd with orchards, fruit and beautiful shrub- bery, which contrast strikingly with the bare, brown, or red old hillsides. The first mining in Nevada was placer, creek and gulch-washing. The mines were very rich, and lasted several years. During this time the famous hill "" dig- gings," a part of the " old river bed," were discovered and opened. They, too, proved a source of great wealth, though many miners became "dead broke" b'efore the right system — hydraulic mining with long flumes — was inaugurated. Tiiese mines proved very extensive and lasting, and yet form one of the chief sources of the city's wealth. Of late years the attention of the people has been directed to cement and quartz mining, and several very valuable quartz veins have been opened, and fine mills erected on them. The ((uartz interest is now a decided feature in the business of the city. Stages leave Nevada daily for North San Juan, 14 miles; Comptonville, S2 miles; Forest City, 45 miles, and Downieville, 50 miles. NoRTir San Juan — is a lively mining town of 1,500 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in hydraulic or other min. ing. TiieyieldoftheMilton Com])any'smill for 1877, was $238,000; the Mauzanita mine, $155,713, tor the same year. Or- chai'ds and vineyards are numerous, also some fine private residences. Comptonville — is another small min- ing town, of about 500 inhabitants, most of whom a; e dependent on placer mining, and they have a portion of the " old chan- nel " or hill mines in the immediate vicinity. Forest City— is a place of about 400 inhabitants, also a mining town, working " driftdiggings." DowNiEviLi,E — the largest town in Sierra county, is situated on Yuba River, with a population of about 1,000. Bloo.mfield — is twelve miles from Ne- vada, sometimes called ''Humbug," but the yield of the No- th Bloomfield Co.'s mine for 1877, $291,125, was not much of a humbug. With this hasty glance at a country wdiere the material for a big book lays around loose, Ave return to the Overland road, and again to the westward. Leaving Colfax, we follow down Auburn Ravine, at times near its bed and anon winding in and out among the hills, which are here and there covered with small oaks and an occasional large oak and pine, together with the Manzanita, a peculiar shrub, resembling the thoin of the Eastern States, which sheds its bark in.stead of its h aves. (See page 164.) K. E, Mills— is the first station after Colfax, 5.0 miles distant, but trains sto^i only on signal. The country is very rough and broken, and 3.31 miles more brings our train to Applegate — another side-track near some lime kilns. Continuing along with numerous cuts, fills, bridges ami one tun- nel near the next station, 700 feet long, for 2.97 miles, we arrive at _ Clipjjer Oap— an unimportant sta- tion. Again onward, w"(3 leave the ravine and keep along the foot hills, to hold the grade — passing through many an old washed jilacer mine, in which, only a few short years ago, could be seen thousands of men digging and washing, washing and digging, from morning till night, seeking 1G4 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. what is said to be " tlie root of all evil " — GOLD — aud a luige root 'it is; tliey all point to it; we are hunting it; have hunted it for forty years; struck the trail several time=, but it soon got cold ; and it has been diffi- cult for some time to find a "color." Anbni'n — The county seat of Placer county — is 7.71 miles west of Clipper Gap, and contains about 1,000 inhabitants. Gar- dens, vinej^ards, and orchards abound, aud everyihing betokens quiet, home-comforts and ease. It has excellent schools and fine churches, and is one of the neatest lo >king towns in the county. The public buildings, court-house etc., are good, and the grounds well kept. The greater portion of the dwellings stand a little distance from the road. The American, Orleans, and Railroad House, are the principal hotels. The Placer Herald and. the Arrjus, both weekly newsnapciS, are published here. Stages run daily from Aulniru to Pilot Hill, eleven mile '; Greenwood, 14 miles; Georgetown, 20 miles; Coloma, 22 miles; Forest Hill, 23 miles; Michigan Blutls, 30 miles; Placerville, 30 miles. "We are now in tlie foot-hills: After leaving' Auburn, we pass through Bloomer Cut, (see illustra- tion, p. 168) then near the next station we pass over the New Castle Gap Bridge, Avhieh, before it was filled uj) with earth, was 528 feet long and GO feet high. All trestle bridges and trestle works on both the Union and Central Pacific roads, have all l:)een filled in with rock, earth or iron, within the last five years. Ne"»v Castit* — is a small place of aboitt 200 inhabitants, about •l.SO miles from Auburn. We i^ass on through little valleys. Xo. 8 Annex. The lladrone Tree.— This peculiar tree can be seen in many parts of Califor- nia, particularly on excursions, Nos. 4 and .5. It sheds its Ixnk in the fall of the year, much the same as other trees their leaves. The tree, after shedding its bark, lias a bright salmon color, then turns gradually darker, until, at the shedding time the following year, the bark is quite dark. The IManzanita, -which means in Spanish " lit- tle apple,'' a small shrub, also sheds its bark. It is found along the toot-hill ranges of California. The root is very tough, fine gi-ained and polishes very beautifully. Many fine boxes, and handles for canes, umbrellas and parasols are made from the root of the IManzanita. In TTtah a man is rated according to the num- ber of wives be has, thus : A man with two wives is a "2-)>ly" Mormon ; one with three, a "3-ply." Each wife adds a "ply." "Virtue and honor are very nice for Sunday ■wear, but too rare for every day use. and among low hills, with evidences of past and a little present m'ning. OlF to tlie right are the old-time mhiing camjis of Opliir, Virginia City, Gold Hill, aud several others, where yet considerable placer mining is indulged in by tlie old settlers who are good for nothing else. There arc several stone quarries ne^r the station, where a very good article ot granite is procured. Just after leaving Newcastle, we catch the first ghmpse of the beautitul valley of the Sacramento, from the windows on the right-liand side of the cars. There has been several points above, where the val- ley could be s en for a moment, but very indistinclly. Passing on by several valu- ab'e stone quarries, for G.06 miles, Ave come to l*in© — "We are rapidly descending, but among the low hil's, covered with chap- arral, manzanita and grea^^e-wood, the road winds onward for 3.04 miles further, passing several valuable quarries, to the riglit and left, when Ave arrive at Rocklin — Here tlie company haA^e a machine shop and round-house of 28 stalls, built in the most substantial manner, of granite obtained nearby. The ce ebrated Kocklin Granite Quarries are close to the station, on the left-hand side of the-road. The granite obtained here is of excellent quality, and does not stain on exposure to tlie Aveatlier. The stone for the State Cap- itol aud formally of the best buildings in San Francisco was quarried here. Leaving Rocklin and the foot-hills — the country now opening out into the plains, or the valley bordering the American River — we haA^e no more hills to encounter; yet the country is somcAvhat uneven, and after Avinding around, on a reguhu- grade, for 3.91 miles further, Ave reach the J miction — Roseville Junction — Tliis place is 18.24 miles Irom Sacramento. Here are several stores, a hotel, aud one of the best places on the coast to establish a flouring mill. Using the wheat that is raised near, and finding a ready market in the mines to the east, Avould have a decided advantage in point of location and freights over any other mill on the coast. At this junction branches off the Oregon division of the Central Pacific, north for Marysville and Oregon. The road is completed to Redding, 169 miles, and passengers can change cars here if they choose, or go on to Sacramento, as the trains for the Ore- gon division are made up at that city, and CllOFUTT S XEAV OVERLAN]) TOUKIST 1G5 start on the arrival of the morning train Irom San Francisco, about 8 p. m. We shall take a run over this division, t-tarting from Sacramento. (See jiage 166) See also map on page 120, and description of depot buildings, page 173. Antelope — is 3.9 miles west. The country is more level, and dotted here and there with varieties of oaks. Passenger trains do not stop, hut pass on, and 6.43 miles further come to Al'catle — a mer,p side-tratk, Koliing down 4.56 miles from Arcade, the train slowly crosses a long stretch of elevated road, and then on to the Ameri- can lliver Bridge, o.^MJ niles east of Sacra- mento — whicli spans the main stream of the American River — and pass along by the orchards and gardens which frim^e the suljurbs of the capitol of California, the dome of whicli can be seen on the left, also the State Agricultural Fair Grounds. The long line <}f machine shops belonging to the Railroad Company, on the left, arc passed, and then we come to the Sacra- mento River, on the right, with its crowded whaives, and stop at the city of JSjicraiueiito — ^ Until the spring of 1870, this was tiie western terminus of the Grand Trans-Continental railroad. But vipon the completion of the "Western Pa- cific, from Sacramento to San Francisco, the two roads were consolidated under the name of the Central Pacific railroad of California, makingone unbroken line from San Francisco to Ogden, Soo miles long. The distance from Sacramento to Omaha IS 1,776.18 miles; Stockton, 50 miles; San Francisco via Livermore, 13S miles ; via Benicie 89 miles; \'ailejo, 60 miles; Marysville, 52 miles. The city is situated on tne east bank of the Sacramento River, south of the Ameri- can, wJiich unites with the Sacramento at this point. It i mostly built of brick ; the streets are broad, well-paved, and bordered with shade trees throughout a large por- tion of tlie city. It contains numerous elegant public and private buildings, in- cludingthe State Capitol and county Iniild- iugs. Population, 33,000. Churches, of all denominations, are numerous, as well as public and priva;e schools. There are two orphan asylums; one Catholic, l)y the Sis- ters of St. Joseph, and tlie other J'rotestant. Secret orders are well represented, and newspapers are also plentiful, chief of which are the Jtcrord Union and the Bee, both daily ; the Journal — German — ii a tri-weekly ; the Leader, the Agriculturalist and the Rescue, weeklies. The city is lighted with gas and supplied with water by two huge pumps in a building just north of the depot — with a capacity of 90,000 gallons per hour. Hotels are numerous, but the principal ones are the Eagle, Arcade, Orleans and Western. Free '"Buses" convey passen- gers from the depot to any of them, or, they can ride past them all on the street cars. In or near the city are located four flouring mills, six iron works, two potteries, smelting works, distilleries, plow works, planingmills, and many other small factories. The Capital Woolen Mills are located here, and consist of main build- ing, 216 by 60 feet, with extention 40 by 60 ft.; total number of spindles, 1,440; employ about 65 hands, and use 1,000 lbs. of wool daily. The Johnson & Brady \\ iiie Co. work up 400 tons ot grapes annually. The Sac- ramento Beet Sugar Factory is near the city — capacity, from 80 to 100 tons per day; main building, 150 by 63 feet. The fac- tory grounds produce about 70v) tons of beets annually. The company employ, when making sugar, 200 whites and oOO Cliinese. The princijnil machine shops of tlic Central Pacific railroad are situated, as we have seen, on the north side of the city, and with the tracks, j-ards, etc., cover about 30 acres. The buildings first erected are of wood, still standing and in use. The new buildings are of brick, comprising a ma- chine, car, paint and blacksmith shops, round-house, and several otlier buildings. Nearly all the cars used by the company are manufactured here. It is a noted fact that the cars on both C. P. and U. P. R. R., are far superior in size, style and finish to those on the majority of the Eastern roads, and for strength and completeness of the arrangements lor comfort in riding, they have no superior on any road. The hospital belonging to the Railroad Co., a large, aiiy and comfortable build- ing, is located near the shops, where their men are taken care of when sick or dis- abled It isAvell conducted, a credit to the compan3% and of iuca'culable benefit to those unfortunates who are obliged to seek its shelter. As for the mercantile business, let a few "figures talk": During the year 1881 the aggregate sales of all kinds of merchandise and manufactured wares, exclusive of local in- 1G(J I'ACIFIC COAST GUIDE. terciiange, amount'd to the sura of $20,000 000. Tliis liixure rppiesents the agerregate volume oC outside trade. The city is laid out in a regular square, the streets runniog at right angles fronting on the Sacramento River, which here runs nearly north and south. They are num- bered from the river, 1, 2, 3, etc. Those running from the river bank, or east and west, are numbered with the alphabet, A, B, C, etc. There is a quiet Ix'uuty, peculiar to this city alone, which renders it attractive to the most careless of ti'avelers. Its well shaded strees; its beautiful gardens, blooming Avith an almost tropical luxuriance; its vineyards and orchards, all combine to form a city such as one rarely meets with in California, and nowhere else. Sacramento is endeared to Californians — not by reason other | .resent heau'y and pros- perity', but because she is truly an American cit}^ whose people, by their indomitable energy and perseverance, have raised this monument to our national character, despite the ravages of lire and flood. Not only have they re-built their city, but they have built the ground on which it stands, and to-day the ci y stands some ten feet above the original site on which Sac- ramento was first established. From the small and unimportant hamlet of a few years ago, it has emerged into a thriving, bustling city. Fires burned the young city to the ground, but it rose — Plioenix like— more beautiful than ever. The floods swept over it, as with a besom of destruction, in the winters of '51 and '53, and the waters were rushing witli irresistible force through every street. "When tliey ab ited, the people went to work and built levees around their city, and fancied the uselves secure. Again with the floods, in the winter of '61 and '(i2, Sacriuuento was inundated. To guard against a recurrence of these evils, the city bed was raised above the hi'rhest known tide, and instead of v\ earing ;uvay a levee, the angry waters find a solid mass of e irth, on which stands the city, against which their eflbrts at destruction are futile. To one who has not resided on this coast, it may at first seem strange that a city should have been located in the midst of such dangers. When Saci'amento was laid out, both the Sacramento and American rivers had bold banks above the reach of any floods. But when the thousands of miners commenced tearing down the mountains and pouring the debris into the rivers, the sediment gradually filled up the riverbed from twelve to eighteen feet above its former level. Consequently, wiien the spring sun unlocked the va?t volume of water confined in the mountain sncjws, and sent it foaming and see'hing in its mad power to the plains, the old and half- filled channel could not contain it, and a large body of country was annually in- undated. Levees were tried in vain; the mighty torrent would not be confined; hence the necessity of raising the city above its ravages. This has been ac- complished; and beyond the present line of high grade, a powerful levee surrounds the unfilled portion of the city, on which is a railroad track, forming an iron circle or band, which no past floods have had power to break. These levees are guarded and kept in repair by the Railrojnl Company. TuE Statk Capitol — For a description see Annex No. 15, page 173. We will now tuke a run over the Oregon Division. CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD. For time of passenger train leaving Sacramento see schedules. The trains run o\'er the Overland track of the "Central " to Roseville Junction, pass- ing all stations — except where signaled — until the Junction is reached. Our road branches off to the left just before the station is reached, and stojis close on the north side of the building, and we hear — "All aboard for Marysville, Chico and Oregon." We suppose the time is not far distant (in the age of nations) when passengers will hear, on ar- riving at this station: "All aboard for Puget Sound, Hudson Bay, Alaska and Beiiring Straits; close connections made with the Yankee Tunnel Gompdhy, under Behring Straiis for all points in Russia, China, Japan, Germany, England, France, and the Holy Land!" Leaving the Junction, our course is north; we are whirled along over a fine road-bed, in and out among the foot-hills, with rapid and ever changing scenery on either hand, through groves of huge old oaks, with large herds of sheep grazing about them, for six miles to Whitney — a signal station in the midst of sheep ranches— cross Auburn Ravine, and after a run of 4..") miles, come to Lincoln, which is a villaue of about CROFUTj's NEW OVEULAND TOUKIST 167 300 inhabitants. Jvxst above tlic station, on tlie right, arc located extensive T\'orks loi- maliing sewer pipes, and pottery; half a mile further, on the same side, is a new coal mine, recently discovered. A little further a turkey rauche, and then, a real old-fashioned Vermont farm, only there is a great unitbrn ity in the size of the rocks. EwiNG — comes next, a signal station, 4.1 miles from Lincoln, where we cross Coon CreeK and find the land improving, for 3.5 miles, when we come to SiiERiDAH — This place contains about 20 buildings, situated on an open plain ■wtere most of the laud is used for grazing purposes. We now cross Bear River, which has broad bottoms, much of which is covered with sand, and the washings from the mines above towards Grass Val- ley. Here we get a good view of the "Buttes," directly ahead. After passing over 2.0 miles from Sheridan, we are at Wheatland — a place very properly named, as it is situated in one great wheat- field, with several fine.buildings. a flouring mil., a weekly newspaper — the Recorder — and an enterprising population of farmers, 600 or more. Continuing along, through a line country 2.0 miles, we come to 1?eed's — a signal station of a half-dozen buildings. On we go, throUL'h broad, rich bottom-hxnd, many miles in Avidth, 4.7 miles to Yuba — another signal station on tlie south bank of the Yuba Eivcr. Here we cross a dyke, which extends up and down the river, as far as you can sec, thrown up to keep the river from overflowing its banks, to the damage of the surrounding- country. The river bottom there is a mile in wiclth, covered with oaks and willows, across wliich the road is built on high tres- tles. Crossing over, we find another high dyke on the opposite side, which we cross, and 1.0 miles Irom Yuba signal station, stop at the old city of Makysville — one of the prettiest towns in the State. It is the county seat ot Yuba county, situated on the north bank of the Yuba River, with a population of about 5,000. It was first settled in 1849, and named in Inmor of the only white woman within its limits, Mrs. Mary Covilland. The town is built of brick, the sti'eets wide, and laid out at right angles. The chief beauty of Marysville consists in the shrub- bery which ornaments the town, though there are many elegant public buildings and private residences in the city. Scarcely will you find a dwelling that is not sur- rounded with a forest of fruit trees, includ- ing orange and shade trees, or embowered in a mass of vines and flowers. The city is on a level plain, tw'elve miles from the foot-hill.'^, and protected from the spring Hoods of the Yuba by a dyke or high em- bankment. The streets are broad and regularly laid out. The city supports one daily paper — the Appeal — has several good hotels, chief of whicli are the United States and \Vesteru. There are two seminaries, four public, and numerous private schools ; also live churches, nearly all denominations being represented. The city is lighted with gas, and sujiplied with water from an artesian Avell 300 feet deep, from which it is elevated by steam power to a reservoii-, and thence conducted all over the city. Il has quite a number of manufactories, in- cluding an iron foumlry and machine shop, where are maufactured all kinds of mill machinery, stationary engines, &;c. Agriculture is now the principal S(nirce of wealth of the country. Fruit culture aad stock-raisii g are very remunerative. Saw-mills ;.re numerous in the county, as immense quantities of lumber are ship- ped from Marysville. The greater portion of the mining is now done by the hydraulic process. There are 15 quartz mills in the county, and 30 companies owning. canals or mining ditches, one of which cost $500,000, and with its branches is over 150 mile i long. Tliere are regular stage lines from Marys- ville to Colusa, 29 miles Avest; Downieville, G7 miles northeast; North San Juan, 38 miles ; Grass Valley, 35 miles : La Porte, 65 miles from Marysville. The California iVortlier?i II. 15. This road brancnesott for Oroville, north, and runs to the eastAvard of Feather Riv^er, through Houcut, a small place, and arrives at ( ) roville,after a run of 26 mi les. This town has a population of about 1,500, and is the county seat of Butte county. It is an old mining town, principally placer mines, Avhich were at one tme A'ery rich, and in some places noAV are Avorlced to advantage. The Chinese are very thick in the old pla- cer region, and Avork these old diggings over and over again. The town is em- bowered in fruit and shade tr:es, beautiful gardens and orchards. This county possesses some of the finest IfiS PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. BLOOMER CUT. S5 feet deepaud SOO agricultural land in the State. All kinds of grain and produce are raised in abund- ance. The vineyards are numerous, pro- ducing large quantities of wine and brandy annually. Rasins are ]iroduced in large quantities, and an immense amount of pea- nuts are gathered for market every year Stock-raising is also an important featurt. "Wool is a staple export of the county. Schools and churches are in a Hour shing condition — a sure evidence of a people's l)rosperity. Stages leave Oroville regularly for La Porte, .2 miles; Susanvi'le, 105 miles; as well as to most of the adjoining towns. Returning to Mar3.sville, we will ]iow take a run to Yuba City — situated about one mil • west of JNIarysville, containing a population of about ] ,000, and located on the eastern bank of the Feather River, just above its junction with the Yuba. It is the county seat of Sutter counly— first settled in 18-10. The county was named alter General Sut- et long. See page 104, ter, the old pioneer, at whose mill race at Coloma, El Dorailo count}', on the south fork of ilie Aim riran River, January 19th, 1848, the first gold was discovered in Cali- fornia. The county has a population of about 6,000, mostly engaged in agriculture. Tbe soil is very fertile, and produces large crops of wheat, oats, and barley; there are also some very fine vineyards, producing a superior quality of fruit, from which many thousand gallons of Avine and brandy are made annually. The city has one newspaper — the Sutter Biniri'r—and several hotels. It is at the head of steandjoat navigation, and is con- nected with San Francisco and the world by the road over wiiich we canii' — the Oregon division of the C. P., via. jMarys- ville, between which cities a hack runs regularly. The '• BuTTES " — called the "Maiysville Buttes," are a noted land-mark to the Avestward, about ten miles. They consist of a 5 cries of peaks that rise from the CUOFUTT S KE^V OVERLAXD TOURIST 16ide-track, on the east bank uf Sacramento River, which we cross, and stop at Tehama — on the west bank of Sacra- mento River, where boats often land, being a thriving town of about 700 population. The Tocsin heralds the news daily in clar- ion tones, that all may learn that Tehama has a live daily uevvspaper. The place was, in early days, known as " Hall Cross- ing." Agriculture is the principal feature of the place, although the lumber business is an important item A "V " flume brings thelumberdownfrom the mills intheSierras on the northeast, a distance of forty miles, with a capacity of 40,000 feet per day. The country is very fertile. Live oaks are numerous. Lassen's Peak, to the northeast, is a prom- inent feature of the landscape, as it rises 10,578 feet above sea level, which Avould be about 10,000 feet higher than Tehama. Com inning along 12.1 miles furtlier, cross- ing several small creeks, we come to Red Bluffs — the county seat of Tehama county, at the head of navigation on the Sacramento River, with a population of about 2,000. It is situated in the midst of rich agricultural and grazing land, with many tlxriviug vineyards and several hotels, chief of which arc the Tremont and Red Blufis Hotel: also two weekly newspapers, the Sentinel and the People's Cause. Lum- ber is an important indubtry, and the man- ufacture of doors, sash and blinds is carried on to a great extent. Mt. Shasta, to the north, is a prominent object, rising up out of the valley. Continuing along, crossing several little creeks, bearing away more to the westward, 10.3 miles, we come to Hooker — a signal station, 4.9 miles from BiCKEYE — another signal station, lo- cated 1.8 miles from Cottonwood — This is a small village in Shasta county, of about 300 population, situated on Cottonwood Creek, about five miles west of the Sacramento River. Turning more to the northeast, a short run of 7.6 miles brings us to Andekson's — a village of about LOO i)op- ulation, 0.3 miles from Cle.vr Creek — a small station on a creek of that name, which comes la from the west, and after 4.8 miles further, we come to the end of the road at Redding — ^This place v/as named for the land commissioner of the railroad com- pany. This is the terminus of the road, having a population of about 500. Redding is 308 miles north of San Fran- cisco, 2 . 5 miles south of Roseburg, Oregon, and 475 miles from Portland. Stages leave Redding daily, with passen- ger, mails and express, for Roseburg, and all intermediate places, distance 275 miles. At Roseburg connections are made with Hie Oreiion & California railroad, for Port- land, 200 miles further. Fare to Roseburg from Redding, $41.25. This region is fertile in subject matter lor our book, but w^e arelimited as to space, and with this hasty glance at the most im- portant features of the country, now re- turn to the city of Sacramento, and again start out on another route. Ul> the Saeraiuemto River- Stepping on board a light draft steam- boat, "at the wharf in Sacramento, we are off for a trip by water. CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURTST 171 About the first thing to attract the atten- tion of the traveler after leaving the city, will be the " TuiLES," which is the native name given to tlie rushes which cover the low lands and bays of California. They are of the bulrush tamil3', probably the father of all rushes. They grow from six to t^n feet high, and so thick on the ground that it is extremely difficult to pass among them. The binds ou which they grow are subject to annual overflows. During the prevalence of the floods, miles and miles of these lands are under water, presenting the appearance of one vast lake or inland sea. In the fall an I early winter, Avhen the tuik'S are dry, they are often set on fire, forming a grand and terrible spectacle, es- pecially during the night. When once the fire attains headway, nothing can quench its fury until the tuiles are swept away to the bai)k of some water-course, which bars its further progress. The soil composing the land is adobe, of a purely vegetable mold. Wherever it has been reclaimed, it produces grain and vegetables in almost fabulous quantities. It is claimed by many, that, with proper appliances, these lands could be converted into magnificent rice fields; the advocates of this measure asserting that they possess every requisite of soil, clime, "and adapta- bility to irrigation. The State has pro- vided for a system of levees, hy which a large amount of land, heretofore known as tuile land, has been successfully reclaimed, and is now counted the most valuable in the State. The country, after leaving Sacramento, is level for a vast distance on either hand ; the " tuiles " are disappearing, and, before we reach Knight's Landing, Ihe left-hand shore is more bold, and the wheat-fields and gardens have taken the place of "tulles" along the river bank. We have already been to ^larysville by railroad, now let us go via Feather River, a l)eautiful stream, its clear watei's contrast- ing advantageously with the muddy waters of the river we have left. AVe pass through a fine countiy with wheat farms on the higher lauds, and reach Nicholas, a dull, quiet town of about 300 inhabitants, situa- ted at the junction of Bear River with the Feather. Proceeding up the Feather, we pass HOCK FARM, the home of the venerable pioneer of California, General Sutter. It is a jovely place — the old farm-house and iron fort standing on the bank of the stream. Enormous fig trees line the bank^ while b'lhind them can be seen the fine orchards and vineyards planted by the General over 50 years ago. General Sutter settled in California under a grant from the Russian Government, which con- veyed to him large tracts of land around Sacramento City, including the city site; also a large tract, of which Hock Farm is- a part. Sharpers and swindlers deprived the old pioneer of most of his property, leaving him i)enuiless, and a pensioner on the State. Passing on by the junction of the Yuba, and Feather riveis, w-e soon reach Yuba near Marysville, 6) miles from Sacramento, by water. (See description on page 167)- Returning to the Sacramento, the riglit- hand bank of the river appears low ai»d swampy, covered with "tuiles " for a great distance inland. Passing on, we soon ar- rive at Knight's Landing — a small place — 4& miles from Saciamento. Population about 200. It is quite a shipping i)oint for Yolo county, and is on the line of the California Pacific railroad. This road, in 1873-4, ex- tended to Marysville, crossing the i^iver at this i>oint, but the floods washed away the road-bed on the east side of the river. The road passed into the hands of the " Central" Company, who had a road to Marysville via the Roseville Junction. So it never was repaiicd, but the bridge turned to allow a. free passage of the river boats, and has been so, for the last four years, and probably will so remain until it rots down. For a long distance above Knight's Landing, the low marshy plains continue on our right, the higher land covered with wheat on our left, with no towns of any importance to note until we arrive at Colusa — This is a point of considerable- trade — 125 miles from Sacramento. It la- the county seat of Colusa county, situated on the west bank of the Sacramento River, and contains about 1 ,500 inhabitants. The Colusa tiun is publi-hed here. The town was laid out in 1850, by Col- onel Semple, the owner of the "Colusa Grant" — containing two Spanish leagues. It is now the center of a very large farming and grazing country. Schools and churches- are well represented. Stages run daily be- tween Colusa and Marysville — 29 miles;, also to Williams, nine miles west. Passing' on up the river, the country seems to gradually change to a grazing,. 172 rACIFIC COAST GUIDK. instead of a grain couutry, more especially on the "west. About 200 miles further and we reach the Landing of Chico — but we have already •described the^town on page ISG, so we will pass on. On the right-hand side, the shores are low and sedgy most of the way, fit only for grazing when the floods have subsided; yet we pass intervals of grain fields till we arrive at Red Blufls— 270 miles from Sac- ramento, at the head of navigation. See description of the town on page 170. We will now return to the city of .Sac- ramento, and there take another route. I>OYVii the Sacramento Kiver. Stepping on board of a large passenger and freight boat, we start down the river towards San Francisco. Tiic plains sti-etch atvay on either hand, and there is little to be seen except the gardens and farms along the banks on the higher ground, the wide waste of "tuiles," and the plains and moun- tains bejn^nd. On the left — away in the dim distance, the hills succeed the plains, the mountains the hills, until the vast pile towers among the clouds. Winding around curves, where the stern of the' boat is swept by the willows on the shore, we glide down the river, past sloughs, creeks, an 1 tuile swamps, until we pass Fkeeport, 12 miles from the city, a little hamlet of half a dozen dwellings. Floating along between the low banks, covered m ith Millow and shrul), we pass Mississippi Bend — 24 miles from Sac- ramento. Here the river makes one of its numerous curves, almost doubling back on itself To the left is the little town of Rich- land, containing a half dozen dwellings. Now the Nevada Mountains fall behind, and we have one vast plain around us. We pass the outlet of Sutter's Slough, and then the Hog's B:ick — a long sand-bar, which stretches diagonally across the river. The water here is very shoal. A wing chim has been built from the western shore, half way across the channel, Avhich throws the water into a narrow compass, giving greater depth to the bar. Next comes Cache Creek Slough, r n Avhich large quantities of grain are sliipped to San Francisco via Sacramento River, from Yolo and Solano counties. Now we are passing along by the Rio Vista hills, which come ■close to the water's edge on the right-hand shore. These hills are the first we have seen near the river since leaving the city. They consist of one long, low ridge, broken into hillocks cu its crest. These hills are ex- cellent wheat laud, yielding an abundant harvest. The land is very valuable, though but a few years have passed since it was sold for 25 cents per acre. The town of Rio Vista is situated on the slope of the foot-hills, and contains about 300 in- habitants. Formerly the town stood on the low ground, near the rivei' bank, but the flood of '62 washed it awa}-, car- rying Irom 40 to GO houses down the river. The people fled to the high lands, where they remained until the passing steamers took them away. For days the little steamer Rescue was plj'iug up and down the river, running iar out over the sub- merged i^lains, picking up the "stragglers," who were surrounded by the waters. Some were found on the house-i'oofs, with the flood far up the sides of their dwell- ings, and others were rescued from the branches of trees, which aflbrded them the only resting-place above the waters. The flood of '62 will long be re- membered bj' those "who then dwelt on the banks of the Sacramento. We next pass Coi.lingsville, a long wharf on the right-hand side of the river, with a house or two standing close bj'. It is a point of shipment of considerable freight, for the couutry, and grain for the city, A little below this point, the San Joaquin River unites with the Sacramento, entering from the left, forming Suhvn Bay (pronounced Soo-e-soon). AxTiocii— just across the bay — is in Contra Costa county; population, 500. Three miles south, b^^ railroad, arc the Mount Diablo coal mines, which yield large quantities of coal. 'fhere are several manufactories of pot- tery in the town — the clay in the vicinity being a very superior article. The Ledijer, a weekly j^aper, is published here. Atten- tion has lately been attracted to the silk culture, and man}- thousand mulberrj ti'ccs ha\e been planted. Passing on down the bay, we enl(T ilie Straits < f Carquinez, when a long, low wharf on the rJL'lit altr:!rts our atiention. It is fronting the old town of Benicie, of which more hereafter. Passing on down the strai'-,s we have a fine view of Vallejo, which lies to our right, near where we enter Sun Pablo Bay. Turning to the left, 23 miles more brings us to San Francisco, lint we must retain to Sarnmi-iito and PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 17» Take the old OvopIsjikI Kontc Via Stockton aud Liveriiiore Pass. Leaving JSacramento, the route is along tlic east bank of the Sacramento River, througli well-cultivated gar- dens, orchards and vineyards 5.7 miles to JBrigliton. — Here we learn that the cars of the Sacramento Valley rail- road, managed by the Central Pacific Company, run down on the same track as the "Central" to this station, where they branch off. Let us step into them, and see where they go. Patter- son'.-j is five miles; Salsbury's six mil's; Alder Creek, three miles, and three more to F.>LS<)M— twenty-five miles eastfrom SaM'amento, in Sacramento county, on the south bank of the American Kiver; population about 2,00o. Vine culture is an important industry. Some of the finest vineyards in the State are located here, including the Natoma, which is celebrated for. its fine quality of raisins and wine. To the north and east of the town placer mining is the principal business ; to the south and west, farming and grazing. There are extensive granite quarries in the vicinity. From the bed of the river, near this point, large quantities of cobble-stones have been obtained, for paving the streets of Sacramento and San Francisco. Folsom is ornamented with fruit and shade trees, and has many fine public and jtrivate buildings, with magnifi- cent scenery. Regular stages leave for Coloma, daily, via Mormon Island^ Salmon Falls and Greenwood Valley, twentv-four miles distant. The Indians call the telegraph the "whisiiering spirit." Emigrants, on the plains, are called, by the Qjder settlers, "pilgi'inis." afo. l.=i Annex. State Capitol «if Cali- fornia. — This is one of the first objects which meets the eye when apisroaching Sacramento from the east. It is a conspicuous landmai'k. The building occupies the center of four blocks, bounded by lOth and 12th, and by L and N streets. The grounds form thi'ee terraces, slightly elevated above each other, and connected by easy flights of steps. They are regularly laid out, and covered with a beautiful sward, closely shaven by the lawn-cu'rter. They are interplanted with shrubs and evergreen trees. The outer border of the lowest terrace is studded with flowers. Its front is toward lOth stieet, and is 350 feet long. Approaching it from this point you may regard it as a great central building, from which rises the lofty dome, and having on each side a large "wing. A flight of granite steps, 'J.3 feet high by 80 feet in width, leads to a front portico of ten colunnis, through which, and a large hall, the rotunda of 72 feet diameter is found in the cen- ter ; and from this, in each story, halls, elegantly arched, extend through the front and wings, the State offices being on either side. Five female figures ornament the front above the columns. The central one is standing, the remaining four are in sitting postures. They represent war, science, agriculture and mining. The wings forming the flanks of the building are 164 feet above the first or basement story. The north and south flanks of the building form, respect- ively, the Assembly and Senate chambers, the former being S2x72, and the latter 72x()2. In the rear center, a circvilar projection of (>0 feet diameter forms the State Library. The first story of 2~) feet is of white granite, from neigh- boring quarries, and is surmounted by a cornice of the same. Above this the body of the main dome is surrounded liy an open T)alcony, which is supported by 24 fluted Corinthian columns and an equal number of pilasters. Above this balcony the body of the dome is supported by an equal number of ornamental pilasters. From these rises the great uietflUic dome. Fi'om the top of this dome in turn rise 12 fluted Corintliian pillars, which support the final or small dome, and this is surmounted by the statue of Cali- fornia. The whole interior is one solid mass of iron and masonry. The dome of the interior rotunda, which is of iron ornaments and brick work, ia e.xceedingly handsome. The panels and pedestals under the windows are of the beautiful laurel, well known in California for its susceptibility to receive a high polish. All the first floor doors- I are of walnut, with laurel panels, as are also the sashes throughout the building. The stories are, respectively, 21 feet (i inches, 20 feet, and 18 feet in height. It covers, with its angles, nearly GO.OOO surface feet of ground, and measures over 1 ,200 lineal feet round in all the angles. See large illusti'ation, Ko. 10. Xo. SH Annex.— Xe'»v Snoianim^o De- pot. — From page Itin. — The Central Company have compleiied a depot at Sacramento, that is the largest, finest and most commodious on the Pacific Coast. It is constructed of the best jna- terial and in the most substantial manner. It is situated about midway between the bridge over the Sacramento river and the company's shops, fronts north, on grovmd filled in and specially prepared for that pui^pose. The main building is 41G feet long, and 70 feet 6 inches wide, two story. The front has four large arches in the center, and eight smaller ones on each side. Three tracks run through the building, and a platform '^2 feet wide. In the rear is an annex, 100 feet long, and 35 feet wide, one story, in which is a dining-room, 40x5.5 feet, 14 feet liigh, two waiting-rooms, 26x35 feet. On the first floor are ticket, sleeping-car, and telegraph offices, lunch counter and baggage-room, news-room, etc. The second story is occuisied by the offices of the Sacramento Valley Railroad, Supt. of Division of the C. P., Train Dispatchers, Conductors, Eooms for Storage, Stationery, etc. Sacramento is now a I'egular eating station. 174 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. fassing on seven miles to White Kecks, eiglit to Latrobe, and eleven to Shingle Springs, brings us to the end of the rail- road, 41) miles from Sacramento. Plackuville. — is twelve miles from Shingle Springs, with which it is connect- ed with daily stages. It is the county seat of El Dorado county, 60 miles east of Sacramento, at an altitude of 1,880 feet above tide — present population, about 2,000. Who has not heard of Placerville, El Dorado county ? It was in this county, at Colo ma, eight miles northeast of the city, where the FinsT GOLD DISCOVERY — was made Jan- uary, 19th, 1848— by J.W. Marshall, in the mill race of General Sutter. The an- nouncement of this discovery caused the wildest gold fever excitement ever estperi- enced not only in America, but in every part of the civilized world. The news of these rich discoveries sped with the wings of the wind, and thousands, yes, tens of thousands, in the Atlantic States left homes, friends, and all they held dear, to make their fortunes in this, the new El Dorado. With many the excitement be- came intense, ships, steamers, barks, brigs, and all manner of sailing vessels were char- tered or purchased for a trip "around the Horn ;" and no sacrifice was thought to be too much to make to procure the necessary outfit for the expedition. Again there were thousands who, choosing the land, boldly struck out toward the setting sun to cross the then almost unknown trackless deserts, and pathless mountains. Horses, mules and cattle were pressed into service, as well as all kinds of conveyances, while many started with hand-carts, propelling them themselves, upon which they packed their tools and provisions for tlie trip. Again, others started on foot, with only what they could pack on their backs, "trusting to luck.'' Very few, if any, had a thought of the privations to be endured, or the obsta- cles to be overcome, so anxious were they to arrive at the Land of Gold. Those who came by water, passed in ut the Golden Gate, and up the Sacramento, while those by land came pouring over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, by natui'al passes, down, down into this beautiful val- ley, where a city of many thousands sud- denly sprang into existence. From a "lit- tle unpleasantness" the place was first known as "Hangtown," but in 1852 it was Changed to Placerville, which indicated at that time, the nature of the mining done in the vicinity. Of the many thousands who started across the plains and moun- tains, hundreds died by the wayside, and were buried by their companions, while the greater number were "lost" by the hand of the friendli/ Indian or the hostile Mormon. It has been estimated, and we think cor- rectly, could the bones of these emigrants be collected, and those of their animals, to- gether with their wagons and carts, in one continuous line, between the Missouri river and the Pacific coast, since the rush Commenced in 18^8, they would be more numerous and closer together than the tele- graph poles on the line of the Pacific rail- road across the Continent The early mining done about Placerville was done by hand, the pan, rocker, and long Tom; these have long since given place to the quartz mills — there are 33 in the county — and the hydraulic process, by which nearly all the mining is now done. Vine culture and fruit culture are now the most important occupations of the peo- ple of the county. Fresh and dried fruits are shipped by the hundreds of tons, while the annual crop of wine and brandy pro- duced is over 300,000 gallons. Placei-ville contains a goodly number of schools, and churches of almost every de- nomination, including a "Joss House." The different secret orders are well repre- sented, and two newspapers, the Democrat and the Republican, make their appearance every week. Placerville is situated in what is known as the FOOT-HILLS as the chain of broken land is called, which lies between the Sierra Mountains and the plains, extend- ing from Fresno county on the south, through Tuolumne, Calaveras, Amador, El Dorado, Placer, Nevada, Yuba, Butte to Tehama, on the north, comprising nearly one-fourth of the arable land of the State. The soil is altogether different from that of thevalleys, being generally of a red, gravelly clay and sandy loam. In the little valleys which are found among these hills, the soil is generally a black loam — the product of the mountain washings. Experiments, however, have decided the fact that these foot-hills are the natural vineyards of Cali- fornia. In El Dorado and Placer coun- ties, on these sandy footrhills are now the finest vineyards in the State, from which are manufactured fine wines and raisins. ceofutt's new overland tourist 175 Hero among these hilTs are as cozy homes as one could wish to have, where grain, vegetables and all kinds of fruit are raised in abundance, while thousands of acres are lying vacant awaiting the emigrant. The mulbery tree and the silkworm are cultivated to some extent in the foot-hills, and this branch of industry is lately re- ceiving considerable attention. Again we return to the TRANft-OoNTi- NENTAL, which we left at Brighton. Florin — is four miles from Brighton. The many new buildings the well-cultiva- ted fields, the raisin grape vineyards, all denote a spirit of progress in the settlers, that vvould seem to say, " We have come Tiere to stay." The traveler has probably noticed several windmills along the road, before arriving at this station. The California Wind- mill is a great instltutinn in its way. It seems to have been brought to a greater state of perfection on this coast than any- where else. From this place we will find their numbers to increase until we get to the "Windmill City," as Stockton is often called, where they can be seen in great Oumbers, in every direction. Many tiuus the water is pumped into reservoirs built on the tops of the houses, resembling a cupola, from which pipes take the water to the different rooms throughout the house and grounds ; the waste water is conducted in- to the gardens and fields for irrigating gurposes. These mills are numerous in an Francisco and throughout the State. From Florin it is 6.2 miles to Elk Grove — Here, too, many recent Improvements are noticeable. In a clear day the snow-capped Sierras, on the left Can be plainly seen, and away to the south 60 miles distant. Mount Diablo rising clear and grand from out the plains, an unerring pilot to those who wandered across these once trackless plains that now are teeming with life and industry. It is situated in the Contra Costa range of mountains, and is the meridian point in the land surveys of the State. Elevation 3,876 feet. The view from the summit includes the country and towns around San Francisco, San Pablo pud Suisun bays, and the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivera. It is reached by rail or steamboats from San Francisco, Stockton or Sacramento. The beautiful valley through which thi road passes is now spreading out before u? \xXL wo begfn to realfze til at nature han lone much for this "sunset land." llcConnell's — is a small station 8.5 miles from Elk Grove. Near are large fields, where cattle and sheep are fed and fattened for market. Before reaching the next station, we fcross Cosumnes River, which rises in the mountains to the northeast The bottom lauds are very wide, and covered with both white and live oaks, and near the stream with willows. The water gets very high in the spring-time, and very low in the summer. Oalt — a station with a few dozen build- Ings, large warehouses, big cattle pens, and shutes for loading cattle and sheep — is 7.7 miles from McConnell'a. At this station we find the Amadore Branch Railroad, Let us " change cars," and note the re- suit Leaving the station, our course is north a short distance, and then northeast towards the mountains, over a section of country devoted pretty generally to stock- raising — sheep principally. CioERO — is the first station, 8.8 miles distant, a small place of about loO inliabf- tants. Passing on 11.7 miles further, we are at Carbondale — Here are extensive coal mines, operated by the lone Coal Co., who load on an average fifteen cars per day — 150 tons. At Michigan Bar, eight miles north, large quantities of the best pottery are manufactured, which finds its market over I this road. From Carbondale it is 6.7 miles to loNE — the end of the road, 27.2 miles from Gait This place is in Amadore county, in a section devoted to mining and agriculture. The coal mines located here have yielded about 200 tons per day during the year 1878. A new vein of coal, struck towards the last of the year 1877, opens up an al- most unlimited deposit Placer mining is carried on to some extent on Sutter Creek. The News, a weekly paper, is published at lone, which is also a point from which fourteen mining towns, large and small, draw their supplies. Some of these are reached by stage as follows: Volcano, population, 500; West Point, 800; Jack- son, San Andreas, Mokelumna Hill, Sot ter, Amador, Drytown, Plymouth, and Fiddletown. These places are from ten to 176 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. liflci-u uufos disUuU. From lone it i? flfteen miles southt-ast to Molieluniua Hill, (pronounced Mokel-m-ne,) count)' seat of Calaveras couuly. This is one of the early mining towns of the State. Piacer mints were worked as early as 1848, and are worked to some extent at the present time ; but quartz mining and agriculture are the principal occupation of the people. It is a pretty little town; the streets are orna- mented with shade trees on each side, and has some beautiful gardens and private residences, with good schoolsand churches, several good hotels, and one weekly news- paper — the Chronicle — the oldest paper in the State. Population, 1,200. We will now return to Gait, and start once more south. Acampo — is a small station where trains selclom stop, 5.4 miles from Gait, and 2.9 miles from liOdi — The country along here has been settled up very much in the lat four ?'ears; the fields are pretty generally enced and well cultivated, and some fine vineyards of the raisin grape can be seen. Many new buildings attest the thrift of the people. Stages leave this station daily — except Sunday — for Mokelumne Hill, 35 miles east. Castle — is six miles from Lodi. Our train rolls along through fine broad bottom lands, dotted here and there with white- oak trees, which, at a distance, appear like an old New England apple-tree. Six miles further, just before reaching the next station — on the right, that large building is the State Insane Asylum. The grounds devoted to the use of the asylum occupy 100 acres. The first build- ing in view is the male department; the second, the female. We are now in the Bubuibs of $!(tOCkton — the county seat of San Joaquin county. Population, 13,000. Ele- vation, 23 feet. The city was named in honor of the old naval commodore of that name, who engaged in the conquest of California. It is situated on a small bay, of the San Joaquin River, at the head of navigation ; navigable for crafts of 200 tons; yet steamboats of light draft ascend the river (San Joaquin) 150 miles farther. Stockton is situated in the midst of level plains, celebrated for their great yield ot grain. It is the center of an immense grain trade. In early times, the only trade depended upon for the support of tin city was derived di.-ectly from the work ing or the mines to the eastward". Some of this trade is still retained; but, com- pared with the tremendous grain trade which has sprung into existence within ihe last six years, it sinks to a unit. The city has manj^ beautiful public and private buildings, thirteen churches, fourteen pub- lic and many private schools; is lighted with gas, and well supplied with water, the latter from an artesian well 1,002 feet deep, which discharges 360,000 gallons per day — the water rising ten feet above the city grade. There are several good hotels; the Yo-Semite and Grand are the prin- cipal ones. The Independent and the Herald are daily papeis, published here. The city is embowered in trees and shrub- bery: most of the private residences and gardens of the citizens are certainly very tastefully ornamented with all kinds of vines, shrubbery, and flowers. The soil around Stockton is " adone," a vegetable mold, black and very slippery, and soft during the rainy season. Tliis extends southward to the Contra Costas, and west about five miles, where the sand commences and extends to the river. Stockton, for several years after the com- pletion of the Overland road, was the starting point — in stages— for Yo Semite Valley and all the big trees. But, by the building of the Visalia Division of the "Central," most, if not all, the travel for Yo Semite, Mariposa and the Tuolumna big tree groves, has taken that route, the distance by stage being much shorter. (See map of route, page 120.) Apfain.by the building of the Stockton & Visalia, and Stockton & Copperopoli.s rail- roads, all tlie travel for the Calaveras Big Tree Grove, goes by that route. (Seema]i.) For a description of the route to Yo-Semite Valley and theMa- riposa and Tuolumna big trees, see under "Towards Sunrise," page 209. To C.\L,A.VER.A.s Big Trees— wo will simply note the route. Take S. & C. E. II.— a branch of the Central Pacilic— at the same depot, and the route is east, six miles to Charleston, three to Walt- hall, two to Holden and four more to Peters, 15 miles from Stockton. From Peters, a line branches off to the south-east. On that branch, it is five miles to Farmington, three to Grigo, five to Clyde, four to Burnetfs and two more to Oak Dale, the end of the road, 34.4 miles from Stockton. Eeturning to Peters, it is 7 miles to i'ACinC COAST GUIDE. 177 H\I-.R.M()KE I'ASb rLN>.KL Waverly and eight more to Milton, the end of the road, 30 miles, from Stockton. Some travel leaves Milton for Yo Semite Valley, Chinese Camp, Big Oak Flat and the Tuo- lumne Big Trees ; distance from Milton, 87 miles. Stages leave IMilton regularly for Mur- phys, 30 miles; Sonora, 36 miles; Chinese Camp, 28 miles and all mining towns of note to the north and east. From Milton it is 45 miles to the Calaveras Big Tree Grove, via i\Iurphys. Big Trees— Tliere has been, up to the present time, ten " Big Tree Groves " dis- covered on the -western slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, numbering Irom 92 to 1,000 trees each, and ranging in height from 250 to 321 feet, with a circumference, at the ground, of Irom 60 to 95 feet each. The largest ever discovered is called the "Father of the Forest" — now prostrate— and _ measures 435 feet in length and 110 feet in circumference. It is in the Calaveras 12 See p.ige 17'.) grove. The elevation of this grove above tide is 4,735 feet The trees number 93, ranging from 150 to 321 feet in height The most notable are the " Father of the Forest," as above stated ; the " Mother of the Forest," 321 feet high, 90 feet in circum- ference; " Hercules," 320 feet high, 95 feet in circumference ; " Hermit," 318 feet high, 60 feet in circumference ; " Pride of the Forest," 276 feet high, 60 feet in circum- fereuce ; " Three Graces," 295 feet high, 93 feet in circumference; " Husband «& Wife," 253 feet high, 60 Uet in circumference; " Burnt Tree "—prostrate— 330 feet long, 97 feet in circumference; "The Old Maid," "Old Bachelor," " Siamese Twins," "Mother & Sons," the " Two Guardsmen," and many others range from 261 to 300 feet in height and from 59 to 92 feet in circumference. Of over 350 big trees in the Mariposa grove, 125 are from 250 to 350 feet in height and 40 feet in circumference. The "Ram- bler" is 250 feet high, and 102 feet in cir- cumference, at the ground. 17h r.VClFlO COAST GUIDE. Hotel accommodations at the different groves, and in Yo Semite Valley will be found ample. Returning to Stoi klon, we once more take the Overland train lor San Francisco. This is a great country lor rapid changes. Where to-day there are only stages, to-morrow there may be palace cars ; so that it is almost impos.sible for u^ to keep up with the times. When our guide was first published, in 18G9, not one foot of all the roads we have come over, from the Missouri to this place, or will gi- over, or that are, was built or hardly thought of. IIow fast we live! At the same' proportional increase for the next ten years, where will we be? \ Liathrop— is 8.9 miles south of Stock- ton, at tne junction of the "Visalia Di- vi.-iion" of the Central Pacific railroad.' Here the R R. Co. have erected a fine, large hotel, before which trains stop 30 minutes, to afford passengers an opportunity to take a meal, for which the moderate charge of 60 cents is made. (For a description of the country to the south, including Yo Semite Valley and the big trees of ]\Iariposa and Tiiolumna groves, See page 211.) Here passengers for Fort Yuma, Los Angeie j and intermediate country can "change cars," if they choose, without going to Sun Francisco. From Lathrop, it is 36 miles to the bridge over the San Joaquin River. Here the cars come to a full slop before crossing, to be sure to guard against accidents— as the bridge has a " draw " for the accom- modation oltlie river boats. This company has a rule for all their employes, and a " Golden" one it is, that " In case of un- certainty, always take the safe side.'" This rule is well observed; few " accidents " take place on the roads operated by this com- pany, for the reason that the road is con- structed of good materials, and in the most $ubstantial manner, with all its equipments of the first class. The otlicers are thor- oughly practical men, who never discharge an employe, on any consideration, who hus proved to be a competent man for his posi- tion, simply to make room for a favorite, or a worthless " cousin.'" Crossing the bridge, the long range of the ('onti-a Costa Mountains looms up in the distance, directly ahead, and extends a long distance to the right and left, on either hand, as though to effectually stop our progress. We cannot see any place to get through or over them, yet we are sure San Francisco is on the other side. Danta— is 1-4 miles from tlie bridge, and is reached after passing over a broad bottom, the soil of which is a rich, deep sandy loam and very produc- tive. This station consists of a post- odice, a half-dozen stores, several large freight warehouses, with a surrounding country, well settled, most of which is under cultivation. Stages leave this station on ariival of trains for Grayson- ville, 20 miles; Mahoney, 35 miles; and Hill's Ferry, 44 miles. After letiving the station, we have witnessed, on several occasions, by look- ing away to the right, that curious phenomenon, the mirage, which is often seen on the desert. (See page 142). At Tuacy — three miles west of lianta we come to the junction of the new San Pablo & Tulare Railroad, a division of the Central, opened n the summer of 1878, and runs via Martinez, along San Pablo Bay via Jierkley to Oakland, dis- tance 83 miles to San Francisco, with 710 grades, being 12 miles longer than the route via Ijivermore Pass. We sliall take this Route first, and then return. Tracy— is situated on a br-^ad plain, with the Contra Costa range of moun- tains to the south and westward, and the -an Joaquin River on the east and northward, the broad bottom lands of which extend for over thirty miles north, where they unite with, and from thence become the great Sacramento Valley, extending farther than the eye can reach. The station buildings are located between the old and the new tracks, and are very commodious. From Tracy, our course is nnrth of west, direct for the junction of the Sicramento and San Joaquin Rivers. The country is i)rincii)ally settled by agriculturists and small stock raisers. .The lands where cultivated, are fenced, and can always be depended upon for ;raising good crops; some without irri- 'gation, but all with it— the facilities for which are readily obtained, and with little expense. Bethany— is the first station after leaving Tracy, trains stop on signal. To the left five miles, are the Contra Costa mountains, grass covered, with timber in the ravines, and some trees on the higher peaks. Near the station, on the left, is a grove of eucalyptus trees. crofutt's new overland tourist 179 Continuing on nine miles, we reach another sii^nal station, named Byron. from whicli it is tive miles to the signal station of BkentwO( >d. Oak trees are numerous for the last ten miles, with some chaparral in places on the right. Tlie soil is a rich sandy loam, warm, and easily worked. The mountains to the left, are closer and covered with trees. Five miles further and we stop at Antioch !*$tation — The town is one mile to the right, on the banks of the San Joaquin Kiver, above its junc- tion with the Sacramento. Seepage 18^. Leaving Antioch, we pass under three railroad tracks which come down from the coal mines, two miles to the left, and run to sliipping wharfs one mile to the right. Tiiese mines are extensive, but the quality is quite ordinary. Our road for the next twenty miles i^ cut through many narrow rocky or san- dy spurs, from 50 to 100 feet in height that shoot down from the mountains on our left, to the water's edge on our right, between which, are as many little creeks, or slouglis, over wliich tlie road is built, sometimes on piles, and with tuile lands on each side. Cornwall — is five miles from An- tioch, opposite Suisun Bay, just below the junction of the Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivers, which are one mile to the right. At this station we get a first view of the town of Benicia, five miles ahead to the right, on the opposite side of the waters. Those large buildings on the higher ground are the U.S. arsenal and barracks. (See description page 187.) To the lelt of our train, all along be- side the moimtains, are many well- fenced and cultivated farms, with neat cottages surrounded by orchards, vine- yards, fruit, and flowers, together with evergreen sliade trees in great variety, and in great abundance. Passing Bay Point in eight miles, Avon in three, four more brings us to Martinez— the county seat of Con- tra Costa county, a small town of about 600 inhabitants. The country is princi- pally devoted to agriculture and vine culture, the vineyards being numerous Continuing along, at times on the river bank and through several rocky cuts, S}4 miles brings us to the Short Line Overland Route. (See page 183). Cllis — is 5.2 miles from Bantas, west, situated in the midst of a beditiful valley, which is rapidly settling up. The coal mines of Corral Hollow are fourteen miles distant from this station to the southeast, connected a portion of the way by rail- track. The "Central " Co. use large quan- tities of this coal — besides transporting it to San Francisco, and other cities and towns. Since leaving the last station we have gained altitude, this station being 76 feet elevation. Another engine will be attached here, as the grade increases rap- idly after leaving this station until we get to the summit of the mountain. Midway — formerly called "Zink House," is 5.7 miles from Ellis; elevation, 357 feet. Soon after leaving the station, v\e enter the blufl's, pass through deep cuts and over high fills, our two iron horses puffing and blowing furiously as they labor up the heavy grade. These bluffs are heavy sand, and almost destitute of vegetation. To our right can be seen the old wagon road, but now almost de- serted. Still ujnvard and onward, the long train thundering around this jutting point, and over that high embankment twisting and turning, first to the right, ana then to the left, like some huge serpent, while the blufts seem to increase in height, and the canyon is nairower and darker at every turn, until, at last, we are plunged into total darkness, and tlie tunnel of Liver- more Pass ; elevation, 740 feet This tun- nel is the only one on the road from Sacra, mento to San Fi'ancisco; is 1,116 feet long, supported by heavy timbers. (See illus- tration, page 177 Passing through the tunnel, our descent is rapid, through a narrow canyon, down into one of the loveliest little valleys in the whole country, and 7.9 miles from Midway our train stops al Altainont — This is a small station at the foot of the mountain. Speeding to the westward 8.1 miles, brings us to Lfivermore — a thrifty town of about 1,200 inhabitants, most of whom are en- gaged in agricultural pursuits. The town is the center of Livermore Valley — one of the most fertile in the State— is about 20 miles long and fifteen miles wide, sur- rounded by the Contra Costa Mountains, and their numerous spurs. To the north, away above the head of the valley, rises Mt, Diablo, the meridian center of the Pacific coast. At the station are Beveral very large 180 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. warehouses for storing grain — as this is a productive grain valley — several large hotels, some slores and many fine, cosily residences. Here are particularly notice- able the eucalyptus, or Australian blue gTim tree; we have seen it in a few placts before, but from this time Ibrward they will be found numerous, in some places comprising immense groves. These trees are planted along the sides of the streets, around public buildings, in the grounds of private residences, and by the Railroad Company, in immense quantities.. The latter had 300,000 of these trees growing beside their road and around their stations in the year in 1877, and we understand 500,000 more are to be set out as soon as they can be procured. One peculiarity of this tree, besides its being an evergreen and unusually thrifty, is, that it will grow on the most sandy, alkaline, dry and bar- ren soil, and it is said to be a sure preven- tive against chills and fever, whtire it is grown in profusion. Some claim that it is fire-proof, and that shingles or plank sawed from"thcse trees will not burn, and for that reason they are very much esteemed in Australia — its native country — and from which the first on this coast were imported. There are 125 known species ot the eucalypti, about 50 of which are to be found in California. Leaving Livermore, the ground is covered very thickly in places with white, water-worn pebbles, from the size of a mustard seed to that of a bird's egg; when the ground is bare of grass or grain, they show ver}' plainly. Pleasanton — is reached 6.1 miles west of Livermore, after crossing a long bridge over Alameda Creek. The town contains about 600 population and is beau- tifully situated on the western edge of the valley, and is a thrifty, substantial town. Leaving the station, the mountain again looms up directly ahead, and it looks to be impossible liiis time to get through it; but soon the train passes arouiul, or through several mountain spurs, and emerges into a narrow canyon, down which ripples the sparkling Alameda Creek. The bluHs on each side are steep, and covered with scri.b oaks, wild oats,and bunch grass. iSycamt re trees are to be seen, also v/hite and live oaks, some with long, drooping moss- covered buuglis — some very iai'gt; — gniw in^ on the banks of the creek, presenting a i a distance the appearance of an apple-tree laden with fruit. On we go, down clown, first on one side of the creeli, then on the other, the blutis drawing in close on both sides, through deep cuts, over high bridges, wilii rajiidly changing scenery on either hand. Soon we enter a little valley where once was located the San Jose Junc- tion at ISuiiol — the road bed of which can be seen on the left. Then the caynou narrows to a gorge, and on, on we go past the old "Vallejo Mill," the track curving to the westward, and 11.6 miles from Pleasan- ton the train arrives at Nilos — elevation 86 feet. From Liver- more Pass we have descended 654 feet, and are now in the valley, which continues to San Francisco Bay. Niles is situated in the thickest settled portion of Alameda Valley, surrounded by the finest lauds in the State of California, aail will, at no distant day, be a place of considerable im])ortance. Seven miles to the south, by rail, are the noted warm springs of Alameda county. Niles is now the junction of the San Jose branch, which runs around the head of Alameda Valley and San Francisco Bay. As the train for San Jose is ready, let ua step on boartl and take a look at the coun- try. Four miles brings us to Washington, About two miles to the east is located the old mission San Jose, in a delightful nook in the mountains, just such a beautiful site as all the old Padres were sure to select. Three miles further is the Warm SriiiNOS, Avhere the traveler will find ample accom- modations for a pleasant sojourn. These springs are situated a short distance from the station, in a quiet little valley among the foot-hills, rather retired, surrounded by attractive scenery. The waters are im- pregnated with sulphur, and are highly spoken of for their medicinal qualities. Near these springs is one of several coun- try resideices owned by the Hon. Leland Stanford, President of this road. Il is now occupied by his brother, Josiah, who over- looks many orchards of choice fruit, be- sides a vineyard ci nlaining UiO,000 vines. From the Springs it is four miles to MiL- PETAS, and seven more to San Jose, at which place the " Central " connects with the Southern Pacific railroad ft r the north and south. (See description of San Jose on page 20GJ Returning to Niles, we continue our journey towards " Frisco." On a clear day, thecity of San Francisco 96 miles distant — can be distinctly .seen CBOFUTT S NEW OVKRLAXD TOURIST 181 a little to the left, ahead of the train across the bay. Decota— is three miles from Niles, through beautiful tields on our left and high blufl's on the right. This is a new- town — one preparing for the future, and promises at this time to be one of unusual importance as a suburban residence for the merchant princes of San Francisco. The lots are very large, with wide aven- ues, beside which are planted long rows of trees — mostly eucalyptus — to the numb; r of from 40,000 to 50,000. The water comes from living springs, which flow abundantly a few miles to the east in the mountains. To the left the valley stretches away ten miles to San Francisco Bay, dotted here and there with comfortable farm-houses, and on all sides extensive and well-culti- vated fields. Passing along, many young orchards and gi'oves of trees will be noticeable, also some of the beautiful country residences of Sau Francisco's merchants. Hay ward's [Station — is 6.3 miles from Decota. The town is one mile to the east, nestling in beside the mountains, and a lovely hamlet it is, completely embow- ered in ornamental trees, among which are the Japanese persimmon. Near the town are two groves of eucalyptus trees, of about 150 acres, aggregating 250,000 trees, 200,000 of which are raising for the Railroad Com- pany. The town has a population of about l.OoO, many of whom do business in San Fiancisco, going and returning daily, 22 miles. Along this valley for many miles, the Railroad Company have planted, beside their road, double rows of the "gum-tree," as the eucal^-ptus is called here, and we understand, should the experiment prove satisfactory they wiL continue the planting until their whole 2,000 miles of roail anil branches from Ogden, in Utah, to Yuma, in Arizona, will all be lined with these pe- culiar trees. From Hay ward's it it 2.7 miles to LiOreiizo— This is a small village sur- rounded by wealth of all kinds. Away to the right, beside the mountain, that large building is the County Poor House. Some of the pioneers of this country, and others that were once lich, are in that building. This is a country where the "nps auXl downs" are very mpid ; one is rich to-day, with gold to throw away, then poor l"u morrow, without a farthing in the world. Alameda county isnotedfor its peculiarly rich and tertiie soil, which seems espe- cially adapted to the cultivation of all kinds of fruit and vegeiables, the size and weight of which are tndy marvelous. This val- ley is the currants' home, which are raised in immense quantities. Here is located a large drying establishment, by the Alden process. One man, a Mr, Meek, has a 2,200 acre farm here, on 300 of which, are 250,000 currant bushes, 1,200 almond trees, 4,200 cherry trees, 8,000 prune and plum, 1,500 pear, 2,500 apple, 1,500 peach, and 2,000 apricot trees, besides six acres in blackberries, and many orange trees. Another poor fellow has 120 acres, on which are 2,000 plum trees, 2,000 cherry, 1,500 pear, 1,000 apple, 400 peach and apricot trees, and 25 acres in currants and berries. Still another individual has 100,000 cur- rant bushes, and the fourth, raised in 1877, 200 tons of pumpkins, 300 tons of beets, and 20 tons of carrots. Currants grow aa large as filberts; cherries, three inches in circumlerance ; plums, pears, apples, peaches, and apricots, extraordinarily large, while carrots grow three leet long, and weigh '6o pounds ; cabbages, 75 pounds ; onions, five pounds; water-melons, 85 pounds; pumpkins — well, no scales can weigh (hem — pears, 3j^ pounds ; straw- berries, two ounces ; and beets — not hoode- lums — 200 pounds. These beets beat in weight those raised in any other country — so I'ar as heard from — and, one of our aged and revered philosophers once said "they beat the devil."— Possibly, we are not sufficiently educated to make any 2}ositiv« statement of the kind that could be taken as reliable All kinds of grain yields are enormous. From Lorenzo, it is 2.7 miles to !§an L:, wliicli commences at tlie end of the pier at West Oakland, and runs nortli and east- ward around mountains of the Contra Costa Uange, and in full view of San Pablo Bay, to Martinez, 3-') miles, thence to Tracy," 48 miles, [see page 178]. By this route all overland trains run (Itiring 1870, and I'V which the trains for Los Angeles, Yuma, and Arizona now I'un. [S e map, page 120 ]. The principal hotel at Fast Oak'aiid isTubbs'; at Oakland, the Grand Cen- tral. At Oakland Point, from which the long pier is built out into the bay, are located the extensive workshops oi' the Central Pacific. Their yard and ground occupy 129 af-res. Leaving Oakland, our t'ain speeds along tlirough the edge of the ciiy for about lialf a mile, then gradually curves to the southward, running out to meet the main Oakland pier, which it reaches 1.4 miles from Oakland, 1.6 miles from the Oakland end of the pier, and 2.1 miles from the end of the pier to tlie westward. Down this long pier rolls our train, directly into the bay — iiut we must return to Sacramento, for the last time, and take The Xew Short Line Ronte. See time table Taking our seat in the cars, in the " Central" depot, the train crosses the bridge — GOO feet long — over the- Sacra- mento River, and pass through the town of Washington— on the west bank, a place of about 1,0 ;0 population, then cross the "Tuiles"— a broad belt of over- fiowed swamp land— on an embankment and ti'estle bridge, raised above the an- nual floods, until we reach the highlands or elevated plains. The trestle bridge affords passage for the flood tides. From Sacramento it is 8.3'> miles to Webster — a small side-track for loading cattle, near by which large numbers of cattle are kept and fed, preparing for market. From Webster it is 4.88 miles to Davis— the junction of the Marys- ville Branch, where the road passes on north to Knight's Landing and Willows. It contains a population of about 600. with many fine private residences. Turning i orth — from Davis — we pass through large groves of live oak, and highly cultivated fields, and 5.05 miles from Davis, come to a side-track for loading cattle, called Merrit— but it did not have merit enough forour train to stop, so we passed along 4.34 miles to W'ooDLAXD— the rouutyseat of Yolo county, situated three miles west of Cache Creek, in the midst of an e.Kten- sive plain. The town is one of the most thriving in the State. Population aliout 3,000. Yolo county, in the sum- mer, is one vast wheat field — far, almost as the eye can reach, the waving wheat stretihes away on either hand. Huge oaks are seen in every direction, and several large warehouses for wheat ai)pear. The principal hotels are the ('rapt, and the Capital. Along I he road we will observe a number of vineyards. Soon after leaving Woodland, on the right, can be seen the race track, where, at certain seasons, some good titne is made. Again on the left, the track of the Xorthern railway branches off for Willows. Groves of oak and bands of sheep are numerous, Curtis — A side-track, is passed 5.08 miles from Woodland, and 4.n.") miles more brings us to Knight's I^andino — at the landing of which we stop[)ed on our way "up the Sacramento." (-^ee description, page 171). Returning to Woodland we take the 184 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Xortlierii Railway. This road is operated by the "Cen- tral, "and passes tlirough one continu- ous icheat field for the ivliole distance from Woodland to Willows, 87 miles. The stations and distances are Yolo, 4.91 miles; Blacks, 5.88 miles; Diinni- gan, 7.52 miles ; Harrington, 5.04 miles ; Arbnckle, 517 miles ; Berlin, 4.6 miles ; Maey, .93 miles; AVilliams, 5.73 miles; Maxwell, 8.85 miles; Delevan, 5.24 miles ; Norman, 3. GO miles ; Logandale, 2.36 miles, and 5.57 miles more to the "end of the track," at Willows. This road follows the general course of the SacramentoRiver,at a distance of from ten to twenty miles to the westward. The Hot Sulphnr Springs are situa- ted about ten miles Avest of Williams, and are quite a resort for invalids. Crude sulphur is found in quantities. Returning to Davis we start again for the south. Just after crossing Putah Creek we come to the great vineyard belonging to aMr.Briggs. It contains 500 acres, the greaterportion of which is devoted to raisin grapes, the balance is in al- monds, figs, apricots and other fruit. Tremont is the first station on the bills, 3.79 miles from Davis, but here trains seldom stop. Ko. -iii Annex.— The Elinira— which has a pop. of 30U, most of whom are agriculturalists. Here the Vaca Valley railroad branches off to the north, through Yolo, the great wheat county, 27 miles to Madison. Cannon — is a rtag station, 3.97 miles from Elmira, and 6.85 miles from Snisnn — near the town of Fairtield, county seat of .solona county, situated on a broad plain, with a iiopulation of 1,000. and rapidly increasing. Small schooners come up the slough from the Sacramento Kiver, to near the town. From Sacramento to this station our train has folhnved the triiclc of the California Pacific, once called the Vallejo Route — It was distant by rail from Sacramento to Vallejo 60 miles, and from Vallejo, via. steamers over San Pablo Bay, 26 miles, making 86 miles to San Francisco. 'I'liis route is now changed — but let us go and see. From FairHeld, it is 5.38 miles lo Bridgeport — Just before reaching the station, a short tunnel is i)assed. tlirough a spur of the western range, which is tlirown out to the south, as though to bar our progress, or to sliut in the beautiful little valley in the center of which is located the station. The grade now begins to increase, as our train is climbing the Suscol Hills, wliich border San Pablo l'>ay. These hills are very produ( tive, the soil being adobe. To the tops of the highest and steepest hills the grain fields extend, even where machinery cannot be used in harvesting. In the valley through which we have passed are several thriv- ing towns, but not in sight. From Bridgeport it is 3.83 miles to Crestox — but we will not stop, but roll down through the hills bordering the bay, S.7 miles to Napa Junction — Here we are in Napa Valley, which is on the west; be- yond are the Sonoma hills, over which is the Sor.oma Valley; to the south- ward San Pablo Bay. At this junction, we meet the Napa Valley branch, which runs north to Calistoga, .35 miles. (For a description, see page 19fi). Continning, our route is now south, along the base of the iiill we have just crossed, which also runs soutli to the Straits of Caiquinez, the outlet of the Sacramento liiver, which flows into San Pablo Bay. The Fair Grounds of the counties of Napa and Sonoma are passed, on the right, 3.2 miles, ami three miles further appears North Val- lejo, 1.1 miles more. South Vallejo, where the boats once laid which con- veyed passengers over San Pablo ami Sail Francisco Bays, 26.25 miles to the City of San Francisco. A description of this route across the bay, will be found on page 19 j. As Nortli and South Vallejo are virtually one, we shall speak of them as Vallejo — The town is situated on the southeastern point of the high- rolling, grass-covered hills bordering Vallejo Bay, which is about four miles long ;ind a half mile wide, with 24 feet of water at low tide. The harbor pos- sesses excellent anchorage, and vessels are securely sheltered from storms. The largest vessels find safe waters; and here are laid up the United States ships when not in use on this coast. The naval force, including the moni- tors, oil this side, all rendezvous here. On Mare Island, just across the bay, are the Government works, dry docks, arsenals, etc., eini)loying 5ii0 men. The finest section dock on the coast is loca- ted on the island, just in front of the town; connected by ferry-boats. The population of Vallejo is 7,000. It has two newspapers, the Times and the Chronicle, daily and weekly. The IJernard ami the Howard are the two principal hotels. It has some fine build- ings— churches, and schools. The Orphan Asylum, a fine structure, stands on an elevation to the east of the town. There are some very large warehouses, and a great many vessels are loaded here with grain for foreign ])orts; it is also the southern terminus of the California Pacific railroad, which connects here with ferry boats that cross the Straits to the Vallejo Junction, on the Over- land Route, (see i>age 187). Returning to Snisun, it is 5.31 miles to Teal, 5.18 miles to Goodyears. and 5.76 more to PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 187 Kenicia — formerly the capitil of the State, at the head of ship navi.La- tii n, and contains about 2,000 inhabi- tants. It is a cliarmin'j, quiet, ranib- linj; old town, with little of the noise and hustle of the busy seaport. The United States arsenals and bar- racks are located near the town, and are worthy a visit. Benicia is celelira ted for her excellent schools. The only law school in the State is located here, and also ayoung ladies' seminary. Tlie Straits of Carquinez — pronounc- ed kar-kee-nez — are about one and a half miles in width, through which the 8acraniento and San Joaquin Rivers reach San Pablo Bay, five miles west. In front of tlie city a long ferry slip has been built by the R. R. Co., and another on the west side of the Straits, at Port Costa. These slips are of piles 18 inches in diameter, of an average length of 95 feet, braced and bolted in the strongest manner possible; between these slips plies the Nolaiio, thelargest steain ferry-boat in the world. To avoid the heavy grades by the way of Livermcn-e Pass, and the detour necessary to reach Sac- ramento, via. San Pablo and Stockton, at the same time to shorten the route, has for many years been a desideratum with the Railroad company. They finally settled on this route which has the advantage of being 49 miles shorter than the Livermore route, and 61 miles less than by Martenez and Tracy. When this route was decided upon the next thing was to cross the Straits and build a boat that could take on board a large number of freight cars, or an entire passenger train. The "Solano" is the same length as the City of Tokio, and has the greatest breadth of beam of any vessel afloat. Her dimensions are: Length over all, 424 feet; length of bottom — she has no keel — 4o(j feet ; height of sides in centre, 18 feet, 5 inches; height of sides at each end from bottom of boat, 15 feet, 10 inches; moulded beam, 64 feet; ex- treme width over guards 116 feet; width of guards at centre of boat, 25 feet, 6 inches; reverse shear of deck, 2% feet. She has two vertical steam engines of 60-inch bore, and ll-inch stroke. The engines have a nominal horse power each, but are capable of being worked up to 2,000 horse power each. The wheels are 30 feet in diam- eter, and the face of the baskets, 17 feet. There are 24 baskets in each wheel, 30 inches deep. She has eight steel boilers, each being of the follow- ing dimensions: Length over all, 28 feet; diameter of shell, 7 feet; 143 tubes, 16 feet long by four inches diam- eter each; heating surface 1,227 feet; grate surface 224 feet; entire heating surface, 9,816 feet; entire grate surface, 1,792 feet. The boilers are made in pairs, with one steam smoke-stack to each pair, 5 feet and 6 incites in diam- eter. She has 4 iron fresh- water tanks, each 20 feet long, and 6 feet in diame- ter : registers 483,541, 31-100 tons. She is a double ender, and at each end has four balance rudders, each \\% feet long and v)% feet in depth. They are con- structed with coupling rods, and each has one king pin in the centre for the purjjose of holding it in place. The rudders are worked by an hydi-aulic steering gear operated, by an indepen- dent steam pump, and responds al- most instantaneously to the touch. The engines are i)laced fore and aft, and op- erate entirely independent, each opera- tiufcone wheel. This arrangement of the engines and i)addles makes the boat more easily handled entering or leaving the slips, or turning quickly when re- quired, as one wheel can be made to go aliead and the other to reverse at the same time. One wheel is placed eight feet forward, and the other eight feet abaft the center of the boat. It has four tracks running from end to end, with the capacity of 48 freight, or 24 passenger cars. In its construction, 1..5t'0,000 feet of lumber were used. Many of the timbers are over 100 feet long; four, the Keelson's are 117 feet long, each measuring 4,032 feet. Leaving the stat ion, our road bed has, in many i)laces, been blasted through high rocky, narrow spurs. Soon after passin,^ one of these cuts, we catch the first glimpse of San Pablo Bay ahead. Next to tiie right. Mare Island, and further to the right still, Vallejo. (See page 1F5.) Valoiia— is 2.55 miles from Port Costa, frojn which it is half a mile to Vallejo Junction — opposite the city of Vallejo, between 188 CROFTTT S NEW OVERLAXD TOURIST which ply a line of ferry boats connect- ing with the California Pacific R. R. for Napa, Calistoga and the Geyser springs. Soon after our tiain passed Val' 'Na, a side track, it rolled into a long tunnel cii t through one of the largest of the many narrow rocky spurs wliich slope down from the mountains on the left to the waters of the straits on the right, like so many huge mountain fingers thrust out tautalizingly to bar our progress. How- ever, the annoyance is bttt momentary, for as we emerge from the dark tunnel to the glorious sunlight, a vision of beauty, one of the most diversified, suddenly ap pears, a^ though by magic, before our wondering eyes. What a glorious view ! Words can never do justice to the picture. Across the narrow straits to the right, is the harbor and city of Vallejo, with the Suscal Hills rising in the back ground chise to the eastward. Mare Island is one mile to the west, across the inlet; to the north, away l)eyond all, is beauteous Napa Vallejo at the head of which, forty miles away, is Mount St. Helena; still further, and more to the left are to be seen the mountains in which are situated the great Geyser Spriogs of California. Turning now more to the westward, our eye falls upon the Sonoma Hills, Sonoma Valley, Petal um a, Santa Rosa, and Russian River Vallej's, the richest and most productive in the world; l:)eyond, and bordering these are the great Redwood Forests of California ; still farther rise the long blue outline of the Coast Range. This range, which hounds our Tision to the west, extends .south to the Gol- den Gate. The most elevated peak is Mt. Tamalpais, 2,601 feet high. To the south- ward and left of our train, we behold a beautiful narrow valley, extending for miles, even to the rugged heights of the Contra Costa's. Nestling in the center of all these magnificent surroundings — like avast diamond — and sparkling from its countless myriads of ripples, is San Pa- blo Bay, ten miles in diameter, dotted here and there with the keels of commerce, and borderered with the deep evergreen of a semi-tropical country. Travelers write of the beauties of the Bay of Naples, the Lake of Como, etc., but we venture the as- sertion that for diversity of scenery, extent of vision and magnificent coloring, few views, if any, can compare with the one obtained from this point of San Pablo Bay, and tlie surroimding country Running along on the water edge, and crossing numerous creeks and inlets, through another tunnel, passed Torma, another side track, eleven miles from Mar- tinez, brings our train to Pinole — a small village with several large warehouses and a long pier extend- ing otit into the bay for the accommodation of boats and vessels touching at this j^lace. The country now presents a better agricul- tural appearance, less rocky, the hiJls are not so high, are cultivated to the top, and produce abundant crops. Four miles further we pass Sobrante, a side track, cross several beautiful valleys and San Pablo creek and stop at l^an Pablo — three miles from So- brante. The town, of about 500 population, is nearly one mile to the eastward, nestling in beside the mountain foot-hills, embow- ered in evergreens and surrounded by well- cultivated lands. We are now opposite the lower end of San Pablo Bay. The neck of land extend- ing three miles out to the westward is the southern boundary of tlie Bay, the extreme point of which is known as Point Pedro. Soon after leaving San Pedro station, tlie jiassenger wuU get the first glimpse of San Francisco, the Golden Gate, and their most prominent surroundings, the view improv- ing with each revolution of the wheels. The side track stations of B.\rrett, Stege, and Point Isabel, are each passed in as many miles, and another mile brings us to Delaw.\re St., opposite the town of Berkley, which is situated about one mile to the left, beside the same moun- tains that we have been attempting to "sur- round" for the last seventy miles. A short distance before reaching the last station, that building on the high point to the right, is the Powder Works ; the large one to the left, 50 yards from the track, is the Cornell Watch Factory. The view ob- tained at certain points along here of the city of San Francisco, the Golden Gate, the Bay and its Islands, are very fine. Two miles further we pass the Stock Yards, a side track, near which are located extensive yards for stock and several large slaughter-houses, then pass Shell Mol'nd Park, — a " road house" — and two miles further stop at Oakland, 16th St- (See Oakland page 1S2.) Its one mile further to Oakland Point— or West Oakland, and rolls down the pier, two miles in length, toward Stuidown, to the ferry-boat which conveys passengers over the waters, 3.7-10 AND rACIFIC (OAST GUIDE. 18» miles to the cit}' of San Francisco. (See large illustration of "Birds Eye view of San Francisco, and surrounding country.") Oakland Wharf— is on the end of this pier. Until the building of a pier at this place, the only harbor of Oakland was to the eastward, at the mouth of San Antonio Creek, the water to the westward being quite shallow for a long distance from shore. The feriy -boats leave and ar- rive to and from San Francisco, at this wharf every half-hour, and trains, many times composed of 18 or 20 jia-^s-enger cars, lun in connection with the l)oats to Oak- land, Berkley, and other points. The Pier— is builtof the best materials, and in the most substantial manner, with double track and carriage-way extending the whole length. There are "three slips. The one to the^nortli is GOO feet long, and will acconimodale the laigest i-hips, the Avater being 2UI2 f<-'^t in depth at low tide, and 33 at high tide. On each side of the slip are erected larue warehouses, one of them 600x52 feet, the other 500x52 feet with tracks running through, for the purpose of loading and discharging. The next slip south was built to accom- modate the "Thoroughfare." This steamer was designed e.vpre sly for taking freight cars and cattle across the baj-. Her capacity is 1(3 loaded cars and pens for 16 car-loads of cattle — 288 head— making 32 car-loads in all. She once made a trip across the bay, loaded, running a distance of three and a half miles in 22 minutes. The l)oat is 200 Icet on deck, 08 feet beam, with Hat bottom. The engines are 200' horse power ; cy 1 inders, 22x84, and were con- structed at the company's shops in Sacra- mento. The soutli slip is the passenger slip,. where lands the regular ferry-boatT between Oakland and San Francisco. On each side of this slip is a passenger-house — one 30x70 feet, the other 40.\50 fed. In these buildings are located Ihe division offices of the Railioad Company. They afford ample accommodations for passengers, and the enormous travel, the advance guard of which lias only just e-mmenced to arrive. The hist ship that loaded at this pier was the "Jennie Eastman," of Bath, Eng- land. She commenced loading August 4th, 1870, for Liverpool, with wheat, brought — some from San Joaquin Vallej", but the grea'er portion from the end of the California and Oregon railroad, 230 miles PALACE HOTEL, -SAN FRAXCISCO. A. D. Sharon, Lesse 1. See Annex No. 50, 190 CROFUTt's new overland TOUKISr north of San Francisco. • It is liardiy understood yet by the people of tlie world, that the China, Japan, Sand- wich Island, and Aus-tralian steamships, and ships both large and small, can land at this pier, load and unload from and into the cars of the Pacific railroad; and those cars can be taken through, to and trom the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean, without change ; that immense quantities of gf)ods are now transported in that way, much of them in BO^D, in one-tenth the time heretofore oc- cupied by steamships and sailing vessels. When these facts are fully understood, and the necessary arrangements made, the rush of overland freight traffic will commence, the extent of which, within the next twenty yenrs,few, if any, can realize. From the landing place of the "Tliorough- fai'e," in San Francisco, a rail track leads to the dock of the Pacific mail, and other ocean steamships, and gonds are now transferred in. that \\;\y in bond, but the time is not far distant, when all foreign vessels, with goods lor "across the conti- nenf," will land at this pier. The Railroatl Comjiany have taken ample precautions against tire on this pier, by providing the two engines that are em- plo^'cd doing the yard work, with force- pump attachments, steam from the loco- motive boilei's, and supplied with reels of hose and suction-pipe so arranged that water can be used from their tanks or the bay. iBellold ! — As we stand at the end of this pier— almost in the middle of San Francisco Bay — and think back only thirty years, we are lost in wonder and astonish- ment. Here are already two great cities within a few miles of where westand ; the smallest has 34,700, while the largest teems with over 233,006 inhabitants — repre- sentatives from every land and clime on the face of the earth. In 1847 not 500 white settlers could be found in as many hundred mdes, and not one ship a year visited this bay. Now there are seven large steamships in the China trade, six in the mail service via Panama, thirty-four more regularly engaged on the coast from Sitka, on the north; to South America, Honolulu, Australia, New Zealand, on the south ; besides hundred of ships and sail- ing vessels of every description — all busy — all life. Here, too, at the end of this pier, is the extreme western end of the grand system of American railways which has sprung into existence within the same thirty years. How fast we live! The gentle breeze of to-day was the whirlwind of fifty years ago. Will we — can tre — con- tinue at the same ratio V But why specu- late V It is our business to write what is taking place to-day; so we will now step on board the ferry-boat and take a look around while crossing the bay. Goat Island, or " Yerbir Buena'' is about one mile distant from the end of the pier, close to the right. It is nearly round, .!40 feet altitude, containing 350 acres. It belongs to the Government. Beyond, look- ing over the broad expanse of water, the mountains of Marin county loom up in the distance, the highest point being Mount Tamalpais, 2,604 feet high. It is in the Coast Range of mountains, at the south point of which is Golden Gate, with Al- catraz Island in the foreground. Directly in front is the city l owing to a portion being built on tlie liills, wliicli attain quite a respectable altitude. From the tops of tliese hills a very fair view of the city can be obtained. A large portion of the city is built on laud made by tilling out into the bay. Where the large warehouses now stand, ships of the heaviest tonnage could ride in safety but a few years ago. To protect this made land, and also to prevent the anchor- age from being destroyed, a sea-wall has been built in front of the city. The climate is unsurpassed by that of any large sea-port town in the United States — uniformity and dryness constitu- ting its chief claim to superiority. There is but little rain during the year — only about half that of the Eastern States. The mean temperature is 54 deg., the variation being but 10 deg. during the year. San Francisco, in early days, su tiered fearfully from tires. The city was almost completely destroyed at six different times during the years of 1849, '50, '51, and 1853. The destruction has been estimated in round numbers to exceed |26,000,000. The result of these fires has been that nearly all the buildings built since 1852 have been built of brick, stone, or iron — particularly in the business portion. The city has many magnificent private residences, and cosy little home cottages, ornamented with evergreens, creeping vines, and beautiful flowers. The yards or grounds are laid out very tastefully, with neat graveled walks, mounds, statues, ponds, and spark- ling fountains, where the " crystal waters flow." The first house was built in San Fran- cisco in i835. The place was then called " Yuba Buena" — changed to San Francisco in 1847, before the discovery of gold. The city is well built and regularly laid out north of Market street, which divides the city into two sections. South of this the streets have an eastern declination as compared with those running north. The city is situated in latitude 87 deg. 48 sec. north ; longitude, 120 deg. 27 min. west. The principal wharves are on the east- ern side of the city, fronting this made land. North Point has some gaod wharves, but from the business portion the steep grade of the city is a great objection. The city is amply supplied with schools, both pvvblic and private. There is no in- stitution of the city wherein the people take more interest and pride ; none, of the credit and honor of which they are more jealous. Some of the finest buildings ol the city were built for school purposes, the Denman and Lincoln school houses being the finest of the number, There are churches of all kinds, creeds, and beliefs, including several Chinese ".Joss Houses." The Jewish synagogue is the finest among them, situated on Sutter street. The Newspaper, and Magazine, are the histories of the present, and the person who does not read them must be ignorant indeed. Calilornians are a reading people ; and he that comes nere to find fools brings his brain to a very poor market. There are in the city 65 newspapers and periodicals, thirteen of which ai-e daily. The dailies are the Alta Galiforniaii., the Bulletin, Morning Gall, Morning Ghioni- ele, Post, Examiner, Abend Post (German), Bemokrat {Grevmsin), Gourrifrde San Fran- cisco (French), Mail, Stock Exchange, Stock Report, and the Galifornia News Notes, illustrated. The Golden. Bra, and Spirit of the Times, are weekly literary and sporting papers. The Neics Le'ter, and the Argo- naut, are spicy weeklies. The Mining and Scientific Press, and the Pacific Mural Press, are first-class weekly journals in their specialties. Here, too, is published, the Journal of Commerce, the best pa- per of the kind on the I'acific Coast. The Coast Review, is the great insurance au- thor iy of the Pacific coast — monthly. Here, also, is Wentwortli's Resources of California, an invaluable journal. If among all these publications you can find nothing to suit yon— nothing new — why, then, surprise the Bible, by reading it, and you may profit by its teachings. The Markets of San Francisco are one of the features cf the city; those who never saw the fruit and vegetables of California should visit the markets. No other country can produce fruit in such pro- fusion and perfection. The grapes, peaches, pears, etc., on exhibition in the city mar- kets, represent the best productions of all parts of the State. "Feisco" Brevities — The new City Hall is on Market street. California street is the Wall street of the city. The Branch 3I1NT of the United States is located in the new building, northwest corner Mission and 5th streets. The Post Office and Custom House are on Washington street. Merchants' Exchange Building is on California street. The Old Stock Ex- change is on Pine street ; the New Stock 192 CEOFUTT S NE"\V OVERLA>"D TOUPaST Exchange is iu Leidsdorff street. Horse ca-rsruii to all important points in the city; fare, live cents. Mission Bay is two miles south of the City Ilall. Market street is the Broadway of San Francisco, though Kearney street disjiule- the honor. The Palace Hotel is corner M arket and New Montgomery streets ; (see description, " Annex " No. 50,) the Baldwin Hotel, corner Powell and Market streets. The Cali- fornia Thealre is on Bush street, also the Bush street Theatre. The Baldwin (Thea- tre) is on the corner of Market and Powell streets. There are three Chinese Theatres, "where many of the " tricks that are vain," are perfoi med nightly, which few can undei'- stand, yet they are worJi one visit. Watek for the city's use is obtained from Pillarcitos Creek, 20 miles south ot the city, iu San Mateo county ; Lake; Honda, live miles souih, being used as a reservoir. Yet there are many wells, the water being ele- vated by wind-mills. The Lij!k.\ries are numerous. The Mercantile, on Bush street ; the Odd Fel- lows, on Montgomery street; the Me- chanics' Institute, on Post street; the What Cheer, at the " What Cheer House," and the Young Men's Christian Association, are the principal ones, open free to tourists upon application. Secret Okders are numerous in San Francisco — too numerous to note here. Scenery — The magnificent views of Cape Horn, on the Columbia River, Mt. Shasta, the Loop, Orange Orchard, Woman of thePeriod,and many others in this book, were photographed by C. E. Watkins. 227 Montgomery street, who has an enormous collection of views. The views of Mirror Lake, Ne- vada Falls, and many of those on the line of the Central Pacific, which we have engraved and are to be found in this book, were from photographs taken by Thos. Houseworth & Co , No. 12 Montgomery Btreet,who have views, seemingly, of everything and every- body on the coast. The Mechanics' Pavilion fronts on the corner of Mission and Eighth streets. The Mechanics' Institute own the building and hold their fairs there. The Dry Dock, at Hunter's Point, six miles southeast, is 465 feet long, 125 feet wide and 40 feet deej), cut in solid rock, at a cost of $1,200,000. Protrero Ship Yards are located at Protrero, and are reached by the city cars. All kinds of small craft for the coa?t service are built at ihese yards. Chin.a Town is situated on Sacramento, above Kearny; Dupont, between Sacra- mento and Washington streets, and Jack- son street, between Dupont and Kearny. These streets are occupied exclusively by Celestial shopkeepers, "Heathen Chinese." The Barbary Coast, a noted resort for thieves, cut-throats and the vilest of the vile, is situated on Pacific street, between Kearny and Dupont streets. We give the precise locality, so that our readers may keep away. Give it a " wide berth," as you value your life. Angel Island, three miles north rf the city, is a mile and a half iu length and three-quarters of a mile wide; altitude 771 feet. On this island are quarries of brown and blue stone, which are extensively used in the city for building purposes. Goat 'Isl.and, or " Yerba Buena," two and a half miles east, nearly round, con- tains 350 acres; altitude, 340 feet. Alcatraz Island, a mile and a quarter north, is strongly fortitied. The summit is 140 feet above tide, sui'rounded by a belt of batteries, which command the entrance to ihe harbor— a "key to the position." These islands are all owned hy the Government. Point Labose is six miles west. Fort Point is northwest from the City Hall, five miles at the south end of Golden Gate. It is the most heavilj^ fortified on the coast — on the plan of Fort Sumter, in South Carolina. Telegraph Hill, to the north, is 394 feet high. Russian Hill is 360 feet high. Clay St. Hill is 37G feet high. The Twin Peaks, four miles southwest, rise 1,200 leet. The visitor can obtain frcm the summit of these peaks a fine view of the whole country for manj^ miles around the Golden Gate, and the Great Pacific Ocean. Ferry-boats I'un regularly between San Francisco and Oakland, Alameda, San Quentin, Birkley, Sancelito. Th general olhce of the " Central " and Southern Pacific railroad companies is cor. Townsend aiKl Fourth streets, en the south side of the city; several street car lines run by them. The Seal Rocks are six miles west, reached . _ a beautiful road. Steamers leave regularly for Vallejo, 26 miles; Benicia, 30; Petaluma, 48; Santa AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 193 Cruz, 76; Monterey, 100; Stockton, 110; Sacramento, 125; San Luis Obispo, 209; Eureka, 233; Crescent City, 280; Santa Barbary, 280; San Pedro, 364; San Diego, 456; Portland, 642; Victoria, V. I., 753; Mazatlan, 1,480; Guaymas, 1,710; La Paz, 1,802, Acapuln, 1,808: Sitka, 1,951 ; Hono- lulu, 2,090; l-anama, 3,2o0; Yokohama, 4,764; Hiogo, 5,104; Auckland, 5,907; Shangliae, 5,964; Hong Kong, 6,384; Sid- ney, Australia, 7,183; Melbourne, 7,7C0 miles. The Plaza, Washington, Union, Co- lumbia, LoBos, Hamilton, and Alamo Squares^ and Yerba Buena, Beuna Vista, and Golden Gate Parks, are all small, ex- cept the last, which contains 1,100 acres, but very little improved. The Oakland and Alameda parks are largely patronized by San Franciscans, who reach them by ferry-boat. But what the city is deficient in parks, is made up by the Woodward Gardens, for an account of which see Annex No. 44. Ocean Steamships— for sailingdays and other particulars, see Annex No. 27. For general items of interest, see Annex No. 28. Here we are, on the golden shores of • ilifornia. We have come with the iveler Irom the far East to the far West ; ^■•om the Atlantic to the Pacific — from where the sun i-ises out of the waters to where it sets in the waters, covering an ex- I of country hundreds of miles in width, .x^ii recording a telegram of the most im- portant places and objects of interest — brief necessarily, but to the point — and we feel certain that a pardon would be granted 'iy the reader, if we now bade this country 'irewell, and started on our return trip, ^ut, how can we V It is a glorious country, '> let us make a fow Excursions, -iiyfive, and then we will start on our trip owards Sunrise, via the Gouthern Route. jfiowfe^.— To the oEALRocKS,six miles vest; procure a carriage. Early in the .lorning is the best time to start, as the oast breeze commences about eleven I'clock, afier which it will not be so jleasaut. We will be fashionable — get up early — and drive out to the " Cliff House" for breakfast. Within the first two miles and a half, we pass a number of cemeteries ; some of them contain beautiful monuments and are very 13 ^ tastefully ornamented. The principal ones are the Lone Mountain, Laurel Hill and Odd Fellows. In the Lone Mountain cemetery, on our right, under that tall and most conspicuous monument, which can be seen for many miles away, rests the re- mains of the lamented Senator Broderick, who fell a victim of the " Code Duello," through jealousy and political strife. Near by are the monuments of Starr King, Baker, and many others, whose lives and services have done honor to the State. On the summit of Lone Mountain, to the left, stands a lar^e cross, which is a noted land- mark, and can be seen irom far out to sea. In a little valley, close to the road, we pass, on the right, surrounded by a high fence, one of the most noted Race Courses in the State. From the city the road leads over a suc- cession of sand-hills; from the summit of some of these we catch an occasional glimpse of the '^Big Drink'''' in the distance, the view seeming to improve as we gain the summit of each, until the last one is reached, when there, almost at our feet, stretching away farther than the eye can penetrate, lies the great Pacific Ocean, in all its mysterious majesty. We will be sure to see numerous ships, small craft and steamers, the latter marked by a long black trail of smoke. They are a portion of the world's great merchant marine, which navigate there mighty waters, going and coming, night and day, laden with the treasure, and the productions and repre- sentatives of every nation, land and clime. Close on our right is the Golden Gate, with the bold dark bluffs of the northern peninsula beyond. The "Gate" is 02:>en, an invitation to all nations to enter — but beside them are the " Boys in Blue," with ample fortifications, surmounted by the "Bull Dogs" of "Uncle Sam," standing ready to close them at the first signal of danger. Our descent from the summit of the last hill seems rapid, as we are almost lost in admiration of the magnificence spread out befoi-e us, until we arrive at the Cliff House — The st';anger on the road, and at the Cliff" House, would think it a gala day — something unusual, such grand "turn-outs," and so many. The fact is, this "Drive" is to the San Franciscan what the " Central Park " is to the New Yorker — the "style" of the former is not to be outdone by the latter. The drive out is always a cool one, and the first thing 194 ciiofutt's xeav overland tourist usually clone on arriving is to take a drink — water — and then, order breakfast — and such nice little private breakfast rooms! Oh, these Califoruians know how to tickle your fancy. Hark! " Tci-Hoi, Toi-Hoi, Toi:' What the deuce is thatv Those hearing uSySmile. We do not ask, but we conclude it must be a big herd of healthy donkeys passing, when two gentlemen enter from the rear, and one of them says: "Colonel, {there is no lower grade in California) 1 will bet you 50 shares in the Ophir or Virginia Consolidated, that General Grant, that big seal on the top of the rock, will weigh 3,000 ]iounds." We did not stop to hear more, but rushed out the back door on to a long veranda running the whole length of the house, which is situated on a project- ing clift', 200 feet above, and almost over- hanging the waters, when " Yoi-Hoi, Yoi- Hoi, Toi " — and there were our donkeys, 500 yards away, laying on, scrambling uji, plunging of^, hghtiug, and sporting around three little locky islands. The largest of these islands is called "Santo Domingo." It is quite steep; few can climb it. A sleek, dark-looking seal, which they call Ben. Butler, has at times attempted it; but away up on the very top — basking in the sun, with an occasional " Yoihoi, h'^yi"" — lies General Grant, the biggest ichopper of them all. We knew him at the tirst sight. He had something in his mouth, and looked wise. Often Avhen the din of his fellow seals below become fearful, who are ever quarreling in their efforts to climb up, his "-Toi-hoi, Boyi"" can be heard above them all— which, in seal language, means, ''Let us have peaces Sea fowls in large numbers are hovering on and around these rocks. Thej', too, are very ch^ilteriug, but we have no time to learn their language, as here comes a steamer bound for China. (See illustration, page 19.5) It steams in close to the islands, and we think we can discern some of our fellow travelers "across the continent" among the passengers. They are on a trip " around the world," and are waving their compliments to the General on the top of the rock. Just around that projecting point of land to the northwest are Fakallones Islands, seven in number, thirty miles distant, in the Pacific Ocean, totally barren of every- thing but seals, sea-lions, and water-fowls. These are very numerous. Many of the seals will weigh from 2,000 to 3,000 lbs.. and are quite tame (see illustration, page 63), as they have never been disturbed by hunters; the birds — and they are legion — which inhabit these islands, lay millious of eggs every year, which, until 1871, were gathered and sold in the San Francisco markets. The islands are all rocks; the highest peak is surmounted with a light-house of the first order, 340 feet above the water. Breakfast is called; being fashionable, we take another— water — and, while eating a hearty meal, learn that these seals are protected by the laws of the State against capture, and something of their habits; then pay our bill, and the ostler his de- tainer, take our seat, and whirl around over abroad winding road, which is blasted out of the rocky bluff on our left to the sandy beach below. Kight here we meet Old Pacific Ocean himself — ftice to face — near enough to '"shake." He is a good fellow when he is himself — p)ac^jic — but he drinks a great deal, ]jerhaps too much ; but certain it is he gets very noisy at times — very turbu- lent. In driving along the beach, we come to one of the evidences of his fearful wrath. Do you see that ship laying on her side ? One night, after a big carousal, when it was said Old Pacific had been drinking a great deal — mnre than usual — and was in a towering passion, he drove this ship up almost Jiigh and dry on the beach, where you see her. Not content with that, he chased the escaping occupants far into the sand hills, throwing spars, masts, and rigging after them. Thank you! We don't want any of that kind of pacific in ours. We will now keep our eye on Old Pa- cific, and drive along down the beach, by several fine hotels, and then turn into the sand-hills to the left, passing over a high point, where some fine views can be had of the surrounding country, and around to the old Mission Dolores. Here is food for the curious. But we cannot afford to stop here long, as Boreas is getting waked up, and is sliding the sand over the bluffs after us — rather disagreeable. This Mis- sion was founded in 1775, by Spanish mis- sionaries, who, for over 60 years, wielded a mighty influence among the native Cali- foruians (Indians). In its most prosperous days, the Mission possessed 76,000 head of stock cattle, 2,920 horses, 820 mules, .'9,000 sheep, 2,000 hogs, 456 yoke of work- AN^D PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 195 196 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLA^rD TOURIST ing oxen, 180,000 bushels of wheat and barley, besides $75,000 worth of merchan- dize and hard cash. The greater portion of all this wealth was confiscated by the Mexican Govern- ment, so that when California became a portion of the United States little re- mained, except these old adobe walls and grounds, together with about 600 volumes of old Spanish books, manuscripts and records. Returning to the city, we pass many objects of interest well worthy of notice, and through a portion of the city rapidly building up, and in a substantial manner. Route 2. — At the wharf, beside Oak- land Ferry, we will find one of the large steamboats that run in connection with the Vallejo route; let us step on board, and note what can be seen. Leaving the wharf, our course is north, with the Oakland wharf, the route by which we come — far to the right, as also Goat Island. On our left is Alcatraz, with its heavy fortifications, beyond which is the Golden Gate; a little farther to the northward, is the Coast Range, with Mt. Tamalpais as the high- est peak; elevation, 2,604 feet. Looking back, we have a beautiful view of the city; a little further on, Oakland, West Oakland, and Berkley on the right, with the Contra Costa Mountains for a back-ground. Now we pass — on the left — Angel Island, San Qaintin, and San Rafael, in the order written. Now comes the "Grandfather," a huge red rock on the left, above the "Old Man and Woman." Continuing on, we come to the " Two Brothers," on which is located San Pablo light-house; beyond these are the "Two Sisters," making seven rocky islands. Opposite the light-house, on the right, is Point Pedro, which projects out from the mountains on the east, far to the westward, as lliough to bar our progress. Rounding this "point," we enter Sin Pablo Bay, which spreads out to the right arid left for many miles. Away to the far right can be seen a portion of the town of Berkley, and further north, San Pablo, through wliich runs the regular overland trains via" Martinez, as noted on pages 186-187-189. Passing on, we come in front of the Straits of Carquinez, through which flows the Sacramento River — as noted on page 187. We have left a broad expanse of water on our left, over which steamers run to Petalum I — as noted in route No. 3. Entering through a narrow channel, with Mare Island close on our left, we land at the wharf at Vallejo, take the cars of the California Pacific, and roll along to the Napa Valley Junction, where we were before, while making a trip over the "Vallejo Route." (See page 183.) Napa Junction — by this route it is 33.55 miles from San Francisco, and 52.87 from Sacramento. Leaving the Junction we roll up the beautiful valley 3.74 miles to Thompson — a signal station, passed by our train, as also many groves of j'Oung trees on our right, and beauty on every side. From Thompson it is 4.12 miles to Napa City — Although this is Napa City, county seat of Napa county, on Napa River, and the Napa Valley railroad, the people by no means look sleepy, but as bright as though they had just come out of a nap, or from a "nip." This is a lively town, of about 5,000 inhabitants, at the head of tide-water navi- gation for vessels and steamers of light draught; supporting one daily paper, the Reporter, and one weekly, the Record. It is in the midst of a country noted for its mild and genial climate, the great fertility of its soil, and its many well- cultivated vineyards — producing annually over 300,000 gallons of wine and brandy. It is completely hedged in by various spurs of the Coast Range. The valley is about 40 miles in length, by an average width of four miles. This county is much distinguished for its meaicinal springs, the most noted of which are the Soda Springs, White Sulphur, and the Calistoga. Near all these springs huge hotels have been erected, which are crowded in sum- mer by residents of this State, as well as tourists from the East, who visit them for health and pleasure. At the head of this valley — in plain view — is located Mt. St. Helena, an extinct volcano, which rises 3,243 feet above tide. The whole section around-about bears evi- dences of the volcanic upheaval that once lit up thic whole country. Near Napa City is located one of the two State Insane Asylums— we found the other near Stockton — completed at a cost of over $1,000,000, and capable of accommo- dating 800 persons. It is of biick, and stands on an eminence about a mile and a half from the city, to the east. Four first- class seminaries and colleges — for the edu- cation of girls and boys — besides many AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. la? public schools, are at Napa, so educational advantages are all right. Among the good things at Napa, are the Palace and Kevcre hotels, the tir^t named, a very large house near the depot. The Soda Springs are situated about six miles to the eastward, on the side of the mountain. The water from these springs has become quite celebrated ; a large amount of it being bottled annually, and shipped to all parts of the State. Stages leave Napa daily for Sonoma, 12 mileswest, continuing to Santa Rosa, 12 miles further; also to Monticello, 25 miles; Knoxville, 50 miles northeast. Leaving Napa, we cross Napa Creek, and roll along through rows of locust trees, planted on each side of the road, and on the right are to be seen a few mam- moth cactus pads, close to the track. A run of 5.1 miles and we come to Oak Knoll— the country residence of Mr Woodward, of Woodward Gardens, San Francisco. The farm contains 1,000 acres, nearly all under cultivation. Of this farm 130 acres are devoted to fruit and nuts of many varieties. Crossing Dry Creek, we come to a black- berry ranche of twelve acres, as many people in this valley make a specially of raising blackberries. Oaks, manzanitas, and pines, now appear in peaces. From Oak Knoll, it is 3.52 miles to YouTSViLLE — Here, on the left is a large wine cellar, built of brick; near by are large vineyards; further, comes Mason's vineyard of 100 acres, mostly raisin grapes, which are prepared and packed here for market. A run of 3.39 miles and we are at Oakville— Opposite, on the side of the mountain, can be seen a quicksilver mine, marked by a red formation. EuTHEKFORD — is the next station, 1.95 miles from the last. Fine residences line the foot of the mountain on each side, the whole length of the vallej% many com- pletely embowered in shade and fruit trees of several varieties. Passing on, we find another large wine cellar on the right, and 1.94 mi es from Rutherford comes Bello— a signal station with vineyards and another big wine cellar. Passing along through this beautiful valley, Avith huge moss-covered oaks, vine- yards and fields on each side, 2.07 miles is St. Helena — This is a town of about 1,200 pi'pulation, on the western side of the valley, in the midst of vine, yards; in fact, there are vineyards and orchards in every direction, some embrac- ing hundreds of acres. Near by is the gr"at vineyard and orange orchard of King. The town has many neat residences, and one weekly paper, the Star. The AVhite Sulphur Springs are situated about two miles west of the town, to which " busses " run regularly. The White Sul- phur Hotel is the place to stop. Leaving St. Heleoa, we come to a farm of 500 acres, 115 acres of which are in a vineyard. Here, on the left, is another large wine cellar, near the road. This val- ley, particularly this portion, is called " safe land," meaning thereby that it can always be depended upon for a croj), as the fall of rain is suthcicnt every year to raise a crop, and irrigation is unnecessary. Barro, a signal station, is 1.98 milea further, where the valley is about two miles in width, with vineyardc extending away up on the side of the hills. From Barro it is 2.1 miles to B.\le, another side-track of little interest to the tourist, 1.53 miles from Walnut Grove, still another small signal station. Oaks are thick along these bot- toms, and present a beautiful appearance. Occasionally we will see the madrone and a few Monteray cypress, with some eu- calyptus trees, Napa Creek, which has been along the road on either one side or the other, the whole length of the valley, has dwindled down to nothing. Continuing on, up through beauty oa every hand, 2.86 miles from the last station, we arrive at the end of the road at Calistoga — which is the most popular of all the summer resorts, near the bay. The springs are just east of the depot, the water of which is hot enough to boil an egg in two minutes, and are said to possess great medicinal qualities, having already won a high local reputation. In the town, every accommodation in the way of hotels, etc., is afibrded to the numerous visitors who annually gather here to drink and bathe in the invigorating water, enjoy the unsur. passed hunting and fishing in the vicinity, and above all,"to breathe the pure air of the charming little valley, while viewing the beautiful mountain scenery. The population of the town is about 500; the principal hotels are the Magnolia and Cosmopolitan; the paper which is sup- posed to furnish " all the news " is a weekly, called the Calistogiaii. Calistoga is sit^ 198 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST uated at the head of the valley, 68.15 miles from Saa Francisco, surrounded on three sides with the mountain spurs of the Coast Range, as well as by vineyards and orchards; wiue cellars — well, they are thicker here than quartz mills at Virginia City. The Petrified Forest — is distant about five miles, and consists of about forty acres of ground, covered more or less with petrified trees, some very large, eleven feet in diameter at the stump. These trees are nearly all down, some nearly covered with earth and volcanic matter, while the ground sparkles with silica. They will well re- pay a visit from the curious. Stage lines are numerous from Calistoga ; first, to the northward, it is 17 miles to Middleton ; 20 to Harbern Sj^rings ; 20 to Guenoc; 35 to Lower Lake, and 45 to Sulphur Banks, where that suspicious mineral can be shoveled up by the cart-load. To the northeast it is 78 miles to Pine Flat; 26 miles to Geysers; 26 miles to Glenbrook ; 41 to Kelseyville ; 48 to LakePoiut, situated on the west shore of Clear Lake, a fine resort at all seasons, but particularly in summer. To the south- west it is five miles to the Petrified Forest, eight to Mark West Springs and 26 to Santa Rosa. The celebrated Foss, with his stage, leaves Calistoga daily, over a mountain road unsurpassed for grand scenery, en route to TuE Geysers— The.se springs, with llieir taste, smell and noise, are fearful, loondtr- ful. We have been told that " California beats the devil." May be, but he cannot be far from this place. Here ai-e over 200 mineral .^-prings, tlie waters of which are hot, cold, sweet, sour, iron, .soda, alum, sul- phur — well, you should be suited w^ith the varieties of sulphur! There is white sul- phur and bh\ck sulphur, j-ellow sulphur antl red sulphur, and how many more sulphurs, deponent saith not. But if there are any other kinds wanted, and ihoy are not to be seen, call for them, they are there, together with all kinds of contending elements, roaring, thundering, hissing, bub- bling, spurting and steaming, with a smell that would disgust any Chinese dinner- party. We are unable to describe all these wonderful things, but will do the next best thing. (See large illu.slration No. 17 and description Iu^AknexNo. 45, page 1S4. ) The Geyser Hotel, seen through the foliage in the picture, is tlie only house which provides accommodations at the springs. Steam baths and other kinds will here be found ample, and board $14 per week. In the region of the springs, are mines of quicksilver, and some silver mines that are being worked to advantage. Returning to San Francisco, we start on Route 3. 8an Francisco and North Faciiic Railroad. General Oflices — San Francisco. p. Donahue President. Abthue Hughes General Manager. P. J. McGlynn Gen. Pass, and Ticket Agent. Repairing to the wharf, a short distance north of the Oakland Ferry, we board the steamer Donahue, belonging to tliis road, and proceed up the bay, as in route No. 2, until Pedro Point is passed, when the course is more to the westward, to the mouth of Petaluma Creek, a very crooked stream, with salt marshes on each side. About six miles from the mouth ot the creek, on the right, we come to a double- front cottage, which, when we passed up here in January, 1878, stood high and dry, above the marsh. Several da3S alter, on tlie downward trip, the water covered the whole bottom in one broad sheet, and was apparently oh the first floor of the build- ing. When it is understood that the party wlio settled here did so to demonstrate that he could reclaim the land by an original system of dykes, the joke will be apparent,'and to him an aqueous joke. From the mouth of the creek, it is about ten miles to Donahue — named for the President of the road. It is situated on the east bank of the creek, close in beside the blutt's, or Sonoma Hills, 34 miles from San Francisco. It is simply a landing for the boat where passengers take the cars, which stand under a'huge, long building on tlie end of tlie wharf. Leaving the wharf, the Sonoma Hotel is close on die right, almost on the water's edge. Passing along beside the rolling hills, which are cultivated to their summit, one mile brings us to Lakeville, not a very pretentious place, but from which a stage leaves daily for the eastward, over the hills, nine miles to Sonoma— This town is a quiet, old place, founded in 18 JO, and contains about 600 inliabitants. Many of the old original adobe buildings are still standing in a AND I'ACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 199 good state of preservation. Sonoma lias the honor of being the place where the old "Bear Flag"^vas first raised. It is situaled in the Sonoma Vallej', one of the richest in the State, and U celebrated for its vineyards and the excellence of its wines. Sonoma is not without its railroad, " It once liad the " rrismodial " — single rail — but this bas given way to tbe Ron- oma Valley, whicli runs regular trips in connection with the steamer "Herald" to and from San Francisco and Sonoma daily — distance about 43 miles. But to return to the railroad, which we left at Lakeville. Rolling hills are on our right, mostly cultivatt d to their summits, and a few scattering live-oaks; on the left, Petaluma Creek, salt marshes, and in the distance a high ridge of the Coast Range. Seven miles from Lakeville is Petaluma — the largest town in Sonoma county, with a poimlation of about 4,500. It contains some fine large business blocks, two good hotels — the American and the Washington. The Courier and the Jour- nal Argus are two weekly papers, pub- lished here. The town is on the west side of the road, situated on rolling hills, by the side of which runs Petaluma Creek, which is navigable for liglit-draft boats at high tide. Upon and around these rolling hills are some beautiful residences, ornamented with great numbers of tiees, among wliich are the oak, eucalyptus, ]\Ionterey and Italian cypress, Norfolk Island pine, and others, presenting, in connection Avith the mountains and sur- rounding scenery, a view mo.-t charming and deliirhtful. Stages leave Petaluma daily for Sonoma, thirteen miles east. We understand the Railroad Company have a track graded ! and nearly ready for the iron, that runs south and west from Petaluma, along the . base of the moun ain to San Rafael, where i a crossing will be made to San Francisco. \ Leaving Petaluma, we cross Pe'aluma I Greek and roll along three miles to Ely's, a fiag station, amid rolling hills, at the head oT Petaluma Valley. One mile furtlier, we come to a beautiful grove of black oaks on a high hill to the right, and we aie at Penn's Grove. Here we cross the divide and enter the Russian River Va'ley. Goodwin's is half a Hiile further, a small flag station two and a half miles from P.\ge's, another one of the same im- portance. Here commences the Cotate Grant, which takes in the hills on each side, four leagues in extent. Two and a half miles from Page's, we are at Cotate Ranche, a flag s'ation for the ranche near by. At many stations along are to be seen cattle pens and shutes, indicating that raising and fattening cattle for market is one of the industries of the people in this section. Here we find many drooping, moss-covered oaks. Three miles more and we are at the banner town of Santa Rosa— population, 4,000. This is the county seat of Sonoma countv, situated in the midst of one of the richest valleys in the State. It is fifteen miles from Petaluma, fifteen miles from Healds- burgh, thiity-three miles from Cloverdale, and fifty-seven miles from San Francisco. No city on the Pacific coast has increased faster within the last five years than S mta Rosa, and that increase has been marked by substantial brick business blocks, large manufactories, and beautiful private resi- dences. The city has water- works, gas-house, railroads, and all the modern improve- ments. Of newspapers, there are one daily, the Democrat; and one weekly, the Tims. The Grand, and the Occidental, are the two principal ho'els. The streets c f tlie city are broad, set out witli eucalypti and other varieties of trees; these, with the surrounding country, aflbrd many very beautiful drives. Stages leave Santa Rosa daily for Mark- AYest Springs, ten miles east; Petrified Forest, fifteen miles (see description, page ISJh); and Calistoga, '^'0 miles; to the west, Sebastopol is seven miles. Average fare to these places is ten cents per mile. The valley of Santa Rosa, in which the town is si ua'ted, Russian River Valley, and Peta- luma Valley, really one, are 60 miles in length, with an average width of aliout six miles. Sonoma county is a very large one, ex- tend ng to the Pacific Ocean on the west. In the western ])oi1ion are located immense forests of redwood limber, wliich we shall, note hereafter. V'neyards are numerous as well as orchards where immense cjuan- tities of oranges, lemons, plums limes, apples, English walnuts, almonds, apricots, and other f uits and nuts are raised for market There are nearly 7,000 acres in vineyard — 5,000,000 vines — which iiroduce annually full 2,500,000 gallons of wine, and 35,000 gallons of brandy. Pomegranite trees do quite well, and never fail a crop. All the lands in this county are classed as 200 CPOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST "safe lands " , owing lo their proximity to the ocean the rain-tall is abundant for all purposes. Darying, is an important industry, yield- ing, from official reports, 2,750,000 pounds of butter, 400,000 pounds of cheese, and milk— not enough figures; the amount of milk marketed is not recorded. In mines, Sonoma is well represented; gold, copper, and quicksilver are the prin- cipal metals. In grain, the product figures up over 600,000 bushels of wheat; 30,000 bushels of barley ; 250,000 of oats ; 8,500 bushels of corn, and many other kinds of grain in proportion. As for mineral . springs, why, Sonoma county is the home of all kinds of springs, chief of which are the Geysers, Skaggs, Mark West, and the White Sulphur. Four miles from Santa Rosa comes Fulton — a small town at the junction of the Fulton and Gurueyville Branch. The stations on this branch, are: IVIeacham's, two miles; Laguna, four miles further; Forestville, another two miles; then two miles to Greenvalley; three miles more to KoRBEL's, and another three to Gurneyvillp: — in the midst of a forest of redwood. Along this branch road, and at Gurneyville, are located six sawmills, which cut 150,000 feet of lumber daily. One of the largest of these redwood trees measured 344 feet high, and 18 feet in diameter. The town of Gurueyville is situated on Russian River, on what is known as " Big Bottom," in the finest red- wood forest in the State. Leaving Fulton and crossing Mark West Creek, the first station on the main line is two miles distant, called JNIark West — but our tiain will not stop, unless signaled. The valley along here is ten miles in width. Three miles further comes Windsor — a small place four miles from Grant, a flag station which is two miles from Heraldsburg — reached just after cross- ing the Russian River, on the north bank of which it is situated. The town contains a population of about 2,0(i0. Fifteen miles from Santa Rosa, and 73 from San Fran- cisco, is Russian Valley, in which the town is located, noted for its great yield of wheat, and the extraordinary quickness of its soil, producing potatoes, peas, and many other vegetables w.tbin 05 days from the time the seed is planted. TheBussian Biver Flag^ and the IJnterpnse, are weekly pa- pers, published here. The tourist will find excellent hunting and fishing near by, with ample hotel accommodations. From Heaklsburg the valley gradually narrows, and four miles further brings us to Litton's Springs, a signal station, near where are located the springs of the same name. Four miles further is Geyserville — Here stages leave for Skagg's Springs — a popular resort — situ- ated at the side of the mountain, at the head of Dry Creek Valley, about eight miles west. Truett's is six miles further, another flag station, four miles from the end of the road, at Cloverdale — This town contains a population of about 5U0, with two hotels, the United States, and the Cloverdale, and one weekly newspaper, the Heics. The town nestles in at the mountain base, at the head of the Russian River Valley, and is 55 miles from Donahue, and "JO miles from San Francisco, being a point from which several stage lines radiate, for the noithern and surrounding country. Stages — four and six horse ■ — leave ClovtMdale daily, for the Geysers, 16 miks distant, over one of the finest mountain roads in the State. It is built on a uniform grade of four feet to the hundred. The owners of this line — Van Arnam 6c Ken- nedy — are old "knights of the whip," drive themselves, and often make the trip in one and a half hours. The fare for the round trip is $4.50. For description of tlie Geysers, see Annex No. 45, page 184, and the lar.cre illiistratioii. No. 17. Stages run north to Ukinli, the county seat of Mendocino county, — ol miles, where connections are made with all adjoining towns; also, to the northeast, to Ilopeland, on the Russian River, 16 miles; Hitdiland Springs, 23 miles; Kelseyville, 25 miles; Lakeport, o6 miles; Upper Lake, 42 miles; and BartlelSjiriugs — a great medical resort — 63 miles. To the northwest, they run to Boonville, 31 miles; North Fork, 50 miles; Navaro Ridge, 63 miles; Little River, 70 miles; Salmon Creek, 73 miles; and Men- dicono City, 75 miles; average fare to all, ten cents per mile. Returning to San Francisco we take Xortli Pacific Coast Railroad. General Offices — San Francisco. Jno. W. DonKUTX . .President and Gen. Manager. David Nye Superintendent. F. B. Latham Gen'l Passenger and Ticket Ag't This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 201 built and equipped iu tlie best manner, traversing a section of the country very attractive to the tourist. It runs iu a north- westerly direction from San Quentin and Saucilito, on the west side of the bay, twelve miles distant. The road has two southern termini, which uuite at Junction, 17 miles from San Francisco. The bay is crossed by ferry from Davis St.,. for Sau- cilito, and from San Quentin Ferry — Market St. wharf — for San Quentin. We will take the latter route, which for nearly ten miles will be the same as No. 2 ; then, the route will be more to the westward. When near the point of Angel Is. and, on the left, the little town of Saucilito can be seen nestling close in beside the mountain. Between Saucilito and Angel Island runs Raccoon Straits. Mt. Tamalpais now looms up away to the left. Neariug the shore, also on the left, is San Quentin — a noted place of sum- mer and winter resort. The resident tour- ists number from 600 to 1,000, their term of residence varying from six months to a life-time. The quarters for their accom- modation are furnished by the State, free of charge. The Lieutenant-Governor exer- cises personal supervision over the guests, assisted by many subordinates and a com- pany of soldiers. The guests come here, not of their own will, but through their folly, and we believe they would quit the place, if they could. By law it is known as the State Prison. The buildings are of brick, large, and readily dlstingmshed, on the point to the left of the landing. Chang- ing for the cars, we glide along on the edge of the bay, with oak and shrub covering the lolling hills on the IcO, one and a-haif miles, and arrive at San Rafael — the county seat of Marin county; population, about 3,000. It was settled in 1817 by the Jesuit missionaries. It is situated iu a beautiful little valley, on low rolling hills in view of the bay and San Francisco, and of late has become a thriving suburban town, ' The town contains several good hotels, and two weekly pajiers, the Herald and the Journal. Along the streets, and around the private residences, are many shade trees, among which are the blue gum, oak, Monterey cypress, spruce and pine, which present a beautiful appearance. Proceed- iuo; through the town two miles, we reach the Junction— Here connects the branch track from Saucilito; let us digress long enough to come up on that route. Leaving Davis St. Ferry, in San Francisco, the course is almost due west for six miles to Saucilito — a small town situated close in beside the mountains of the Coast Range, coutaing a population of about 300. On the trip across the bay, a beautiful view can be had of the northwestern portion of San Francisco, Alcatraz, the Golden Gate, and the forts located there. At Saucilito we take the cars and soon come to the shops belonging to the Railroad Compai J'; three miles further, Lyford's , another 'mile, the Summit; two more, across an arm of the bay, is Corte jVIa- DERA; two miles further Tamalpais — Here saddle horses can bo procured for a ride up to the summit of the mountain, 2,604 feet, from which the tinestviewcanbe had of the Pacilic Ocean, San Francisco, and San Pablo Bays, and the surrounding country, that can be ob- tained at any point. The distance is about eight miles. From Tamalpais station it is two miles to the Junction. From Sau- cilito the route has been one of beauty. In almost every nook of the mountain-side are residences surrounded with all that money and good taste can provide to make them beautiful and attractive homes. Leaving the Junction, after 1.5 miles conies the side-track of Fairfax, sur- rounded by rolling hills, covered with an eternal verdure of green. Curving to the right, look ! away up there to the left — see our road! Can we get there? Up, up we go, through a tunnel, and roll around the iiead of the little valley, and then to the left we can look away down and see the road up which we passed only a few moments ago. Keeping around on the southern slope of the hills, with an awful chasm on the left, beyond are high mouu' tains upon the sides of which can be teen an occasional huge redwood tree. Curving around again to the right, up another litile valley, our road again ap- pears far up on the opposite side, and again the head of the valley is reached; the curve to the left is again made, and down, far below, is the road bed. There are two " Cape Horns," only not as high as Cape Horn on the Central Pacific. The scenery is very beautiful. Climbing up, see, on the right, the wagon road to Mt. Tamalpais, under which is the tunnel through which we pass; altitude, 565 feet; length, 1,250 feet. Beyond the tunnel, the grade descends, 202 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST curving around on tlie side of the hills, down into a little valley tinough which runs the San Geron mo Creek. Here we find the madrono tree, (see Annex, No. 8, pa^e 164) and many oaks with droop- ing, moss-covered Ijoughs. 8ix and a half miles from Fairfax, we come to NiCASio, a small station with an altitude of 370 feet. The mountains, on the left, are covered with a dense growth of trees, of many varieties, among which are ledwood, pine, Douglas spruce, madrone, lind buckeye shrubs. PassuigLAGUNiTAS, a i?mall station, the road enters a narrow canyon, down which we run, with the red- wood towering far above; pass the old powder mill and extensive pic-nic grounds on the right, whicli are visited in the sum- mer by thousands from fSan Francisco — on, past a big dam, and we arrive at Taylorsville— This is a small station, named for a Mr. Taylor, who establisiied here the ^irst paper mill on the Pacific Coast, known as the " Pioneer Paper Mill." The canyon is narrow, with some tall redwoods along the creek, and on the side of the mountain t(j the left. Opposite, the country is rolling with few trees — some- thing of a dairy country. TocoLOMA— comes next, three miles from Taylor's. Here a stage line runs to the town of Olema, two miles to the south, over the ridge, and also to Bolinas, four- teen miles distant. Passing on by milk ranches, crossing bridges, through deep cuts, over high embankments, curving around the side of the mountain on the left, the train comes out into a little valley, and 4.5 miles from the last station, and 38.5 miles from San Francisco, stops at Olema St.\tion — Th's is an eating station, the only one on the road. Trdns stop twenty minute-. Stages for BoHnas, south thirteen miles, leave 6Ke>y daj', exctpt wtek days. Leaving, the route is more to the north- ward, with Bolinas Bay over the hills to the left. The timber to the right has entirely dis- appea ed, and there is but little on the left, with very little cultivated land. We are now approaching a section which is almost entirely devoted to dairying. Soon we come to Tomales Bay, a portion- of which is crossed on a long pile bridge, where are extensive beds of planted oysters, the boundaries of which are marked by poles. Ducks are very abundant, and white peli- cans can often be seeq as well as wild geese. This bay is about twenty miles in length, with an average width of one mile. Our train runs along on the edge of this bay, arouml rocky points, Ihrougl; spurs of the bluffs, and across little iuik'ts for about sixteen miles, where the road turns sharp 1o the right, up an arm of the ba3\ In this distance we find the following stations: Wharf Point, three miles from Olema jNIilleiiton, two miles further, and M.\JisnALLS, nine more; then comes Hamlet — Here the regular passenger trains mee'. All these sidetrack stations along the bay are for the accommodation of the dairymen living near, who ship large cpiantilies of milk and butter to San Francisco daily. Tomales Point is on the opposite side of the bay, which is here only about three and a half miles from the ocean. Turning to tlie riidit, our road follows up a narrow little valley around rocky p >ints, with high grass-coveretl hills on each side — makes one great rainbow curve, away around the head of the valley, and conies to a stop at Tomales — This station is 55 miles from San Francisco. Here the Railroad Com- pany liave large warehouses for storing grain, from which large quantities are shipped annually. Tomales consists of a few dozen buildings, devoted to mei-chan- dizing, with a surrounding country well cultivated. Mt. St. Helena can be seen on the right, and, in a clear day,fa7' beyond the snow-capped Sierras. Leaving the station, the road passes through the tbunh tunnel, crossing a small creek on a high trestle bridge, and then a small inlet Ironi the ocean, where we leave Marin county, enter Sonoma, and come to Valley Fokd Station — Here a sta^e leaves dady for Petaluma, eighteen miles east. Years ago the section we are now entering was the southern border of the great redwood forests. Here the lumber- man began his labors, and as years passed, step by step he penetrated this great lum- ber region, leaving in his track stumps, fire, smoke, and tinallvthe clearing, broad, rich tields and well-cultivated farms, from the productions of which he subsists while persistently fol owing up his receding prey — the redwoods. The waters from Bodega Bay sit back to near the station, on the left. Three miles further, we come to Bodega IIoads, and one mile more to Freestone, o\er a hea\v tirade. Here we come to another AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 203 ggreat horsc-slioe curve, around the head of "a small valley. First, the road-bed i& far dbcxe, then/(7r below, with a deep gorge on the left, in which grow mad roue, redwood, ana oak trees. Now we come to a trestle bridge, 300 feet long and 137 feet high, over a frightful gorge; and then to the Summit Tunnel, 610 feet long, beyond which is Howard— The principal business at this station is l)urniug coke. Passing on, we enter " Dutch Bitl Canj'on," called so in early days after Mr. Howard, who there wrestled with the big redwoods that it then contaiued. Redwoods now appear on each side, as also saw-mills. Streeten Mill is passed on the left, then anotlur tunnel — there are live tunnels iu all, on the road, aggregating 3,850 feet — then a long wood shute, and Tyrone Mills — Here are extens've saw- mills on tbe left, with side-tracks running to them, with a capacity of 40,000 feet of luml)cr a day. Leaving this mill, on a down grade, through towering redwoods, 300 feet high, we roll down past another large mill, on the right, to the Russian River, just after passing an unimportant side- track of that name. The river at this place comes down through a perfect forest of towering red- woods, and is about 300 feet wide, with an av- erage depth of two feet. The train runs along on the southern bank, pasta beautiful little cottage on the right, away up on a high spur of the mountains, that projects out into the river, and which has been left, as it were isolated by the cutting made by the Railroad Company in building the road. It is one of several country residences be- lo.ging to the President of the road. Be- yond this point a short distance, is the Moscow Mills St.\tion, opposite which comes in from tlie north, Austin Creek, abounding in redwoods. A short distance further, Russian River is crossed on a bridge 400 feet long, and the train stops at the end of the road at Duncan's Mills — Here are located ex- tensive saw-mill?, in the midst of great for- ests of redwoods. The station isSO miles from San Francisco, and consists of one large hotel, the Julian— a good station building, some shops of the Railroad Com- pany, several stores and a dozen or more residences, some of which are very good. Game of various kinds is abumlant, such as deer, bears, etc., and some w Id Jiogs. Fish — well, this is the fisherman's paradise. Fi om Duncan's Mills it is six miles to the Ocean, reached by boats on Russian River, which is near the station, also by a good wagon road. Stages leave Duncan's JNIills daily, except Mondays, for the following places: Fort Ross, 16 miles; Henry's, 16 miles; Timber Cove, 20 miles; Salt Point, 25 miles ; Fisk's Mills, 30 miles ; Stewart's Point, 34 miles; Gualala, 44 miles; Fish Rock, 50 mi'es; Point Arena, 60 miles; Manchester, 66 miles; Cuffey's^ Cove, 80 miles; Navana Ridge, 86 miles; and >Iendocino City, 96 miles ; average (are ten cents per mile. Along the line of this road are located several large saw-mills, which produce lor market, 200,000 feet of redwood lumber daily. In conclusion; the ramble about Dun- can's Mills will be found by the tourist, a very pleasant one, in fact, the scenery along the whole line is very interesting. The rapid changes and the great variety are charming, instructive, and when once made will ever live in pleasant memory. Returning to San Francisco, we start on Route 5. $$oiitherii Pacific Railroad General Otficcs, San Francisco. Chas. Crockeh, President. Gko. E. Gray Chuf Engineer^ A C. Bassett, General Sitjierintendent. H. R. JuDAH Ger\. Pas. and Ticket Agent. This company own the road from Goshen, in the San Joaquin Valley, and,, including the Goshen Division, to Los Angeles and Yuma, in Arizona, but it is leased to and operated by the " Central " Company. This leaves the Soutl ern only the line from San Francisco If Soledad. 142 miles, and the Trespinos division of 18 miles, Monterey IG, making 176 miles, OA^er whii'h we ]iropose journeying. Leaving the depot, whicli is situated op- posite the general office, corner Townseud and Fourth, the route is south, through the city for over four miles, most of the dis- tance built up with business blocks, manu- factorii s, large wool warehouses shops and private residences. The company's machine shops — exten- sive works — are situated about two miles from the depot ; another mile is Valencia street, where is a horse-car line to the more central part of the city. Then we move another mile, through some deep cuts and high hills on the righ\ and are at 204 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST Bernal — a small station 4.G miles from our starting point. Some gardens and vegetable tields now appear, and a short distance from the station is the Industrial School, on an elevation to the riglit. San Miguel — is two miles further, among the sand-hills, where are some well- cultivated gardens. To tlie right is Lake Mercede and the city water works. Continuing along through the hills, which in places are close on each side — with the San Bruno Mountains in the dis- tance on the right — down a little valley, then through deep cuts, past Colma, a side-track, and Baden Bay, all in c^uick suc- cession, we come to (he signal station of Baden, or as often called "Twelve Mile Farm." At this place Mr. Chas. Lux, of Lux and Miller, the largest cattle dealers on the Pacific Coast, resides; and on ]Mr. Lux's " Twelve ]\Iile Farm " can be found at all times, some of the best cattle in the State. Two miles further, and we are over the hills and down on the edge of San Fran- •cisoo Bay, which is on the left, and at San Bruno — This station consists of a good hotel, and four targets, as it is a great resort for shooting at target. The targets are on the edge of the bay to the left; distances, ^00, 500, 800, and 1,000 yards each. Here the " sports " gather to try their hand. The San Bruno Hotel is on the right of the road, where all the targets are at shorter rartge, and the shots always certain to hit the red. MlLLBRAE is the next station, 17 miles fi-om San Francisco. To tlie right of the road, hnlf-a-mile distant, is the residence of D. O. ]\Iills, Presidejit of the Bank of California. It will be recognized by the two tall towers. A little bcj'ond the station is Millbrae dairy, with large yards and buildings. On the left, in the bay, are great beds of planted oysters. Soon after ■'•.•,•''.■■• M "I,,-,.. W •■'• I'iM-'iM.. .-.-■ designed and hiid out by the late Mr. Rals- ton in long streets and avenues, extending for two miles along the road, and from the base of tlie mountains, on the right, to the hay on the left, about ar.other two miles. Beside these streets and avenues, are double rows of planted trees, most of which are eu- calyptus and Monterey cj-press. There are some beautiful residences here and^there along the base of the mountains o*n tlie right. Two miles from Millbrae, we pass Oak Grove, a small station named for tHf grove of oaks near by. One peculiarity of this country is: no matter how much ground is shaded with oaks, it makes no dillcrencc with the crops, all kinds of which seem to grow equally well in the shade and in the sun. S.\N Mateo — (pronounced j\Ia-t-o). Here are some of the finest i)rivate residences and grounds in tlie State. This town con- tains a population of about 1,500. Oaks and orchards are everywiiei;e. Stages leave San Mateo daily on the arrival of ihc train from San Francisco for Half-Moon Bay, 14 miles west; Purissima, 23 miles; Pescadero, 30 miles. At the latter place connections are made tri-weekly for Pigeon Point, seven miles ; Davenport's Landing, 38 miles, and Santa Cruz, 40 miles; average fare ten cents per mile. Leaving the station, we pass — on the riglit — a beautiful park, and the Young Ladies' Seminary ; also a race track. To the left tlie bay lies close, and the land is of little value, until reclainied, buton the right is beauty, spread out with a lavish hand. Live oaks are scattered around in all directions, with buckeye in the ravines coming down from the mountains on the the right. Windmills are numerous the whole length of the valley. BELMONT^which is 25 miles from San Francisco, comes next. At this station the guests of the late Mr. Ralston were wont to-alight to visit his residence. This place is located a half-mile to the west, up a little valley, just (lut of sight from the railroad. it originally contained about 100 acres, which, upon the death of Mr. Ralston, came into possession of Senator Sharon, who presented 40 acres of the land, including ah elegant cottage, to the widow, Mrs. Ralston. Leaving Belmont, the Phelps estate is on the right, and double rows of eucalyptus on the left, for two miles. The country between the hills and the bay is flat, and under a high state of cultivation. Redwood City — -comes next, 3.5 miles from Belmont. It is the county seat of San Mateo county, and a thriving place. It Avas named from the great redwood forest on the west, a large quantity of which finds its way to market in the shape of lumber, Avood and bark, from this station. The city is supplied Avitli water from an artesian well. The county buildings, schools, churches and hotels, arc all said to be Jfr/i'-rlnss, as well as the weekly pa- AN]) I'ACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 205 per, the Times and Gazette. Stages leave daily for Seareville, seven miles ; La Honda, IG miles, and Pescadero, 30 miles. Passing Fair Oaks, a small station in the midst of beautiful residences, sur- rounded with parks, gardens, orchards and moss-drooping oaks, we come to Menlo Paiuv — near wliich reside a score or more of millionaires, including E.x- Gov. Stanford, Milton S. Latham, J. C. Flood, Albert Grand, Faxon Atherton, Maj. liathbone, M. D. Sweney, Col. Eyre, and many others. jMenlo Park Hotel is situated on the right, and is embowered in trees, vines, and flowers. On the left, leaving the station, is "Thurlow Lodge," a palatial residence, situated in the center of princely grounds, with the most costly sur- roundings, consisting of deer park, trees, gardens, orchards and shrubbery. A little further, on the right, comes the 500-acre farm ot E.\-Gov. Stanford, President of the Central Pacific railroad. Here is the home of " Occident," and some of the finest blooded stock on the Pacific coast. Maypield — a town of 1,000 inhabitants, 34.9 miles from San Francisco, is situated in the widest part of Santa Clara Valley, embowered in " blue gum " oaks, and other trees. It is AS*, miles from Mountain View — a small station, so named from the extended view which it affords of the Coast Range on the west, the Contra Costa, on the east, as well as the whole surround- ing country. The great oaks add an indescribable beauty to this country, and grow in great pro- fusion, particularly c n the Mm'phy Grant, through which Ave are now passing. This grant oi iginally covered some thousands of acres, in this, the richest portion of the Santa Clara Valley. Murphy's Station — for the accommodation of the gi-aut — is lo- cated near its center. We are now opposite the head of San Francisco Bay — on tlie east — and the little town of Alviso, which is noted for its strawberries and fruit, as well as being a point from which immense quantities of produce are shipped on the boats that land at its ample wharf We pass on through, a section, where every foot of land is in a high state of cul- tivation, for two miles, and come to Lawrence — a small place 8 5 miles from the beautiful Santa Clara — This is a beautiful and quiet old town of about 4,000 inhabitants, originally founded by the Jesuits, in 1774. It is situated near the center of Santa Clara Valley, one of the loveliest in the "world, possessing a soil of surpassing richness. It is celebrated for the salubrity of its cli- mate, and the excellence and variety < f its fruits; is thickly settled, and as a wheat- growing valley it has no superior. In point of improvements, good farm-houses, orchards, vineyards, etc., it has few, if any, equals. Churches and schools are numerous ; Santa Clara and San Jose — three miles apart — are both noted for their educational institutions, where some of the finest in the State are located. The convent of Notre Dame, the San Jose Institute, the State Normal School, and the new building of the University of the Pacific, Methodist, Female Seminary, and the Catholic Col- legiate Institute, stand as monuments t(v attest a people's integrity and Avorth. There are two weekly papers published at Santa Clara — the Index and News. Stages leave daily for Los Gatos, seven miles; Lexington, ten miles ; and the Con- gress Springs, thirteen miles; fare, ten cents per mile. These springs are resorted to by those suffering with pulmonary complaints. South Pacific Coast E. R., narrow gauge, now completed from Alameda, opposite SanFrancisco.to SantaCruz, 80 miles, passes through Alvarado, a manufacturing town on the east side of the bay, about 10 miles west of Niles, to Santa Clara, thence southwest, through a long tunnel, under the Coast Range of mountains, 37 miles to Santa Cruz, situated on an arm of Monterey Bay, and is often called the "NcAvport" of California, being a noted sum- mer resort for sea bathers, who find good accommodations in the shape of hotels, bathing houses, etc. It is the county seat of Santa Cruz county, population, 3,000; connected by rail with the Southern Pa- cific at Pajaro 21 miles and, with Fulton eight miles; and by stage, with all adjoin- ing towns up and down the coast, and by steamer to San Francisco. Returning to Santa Ciara, we can, if we choose, step into the horse-cars, or take a carriage for San Ji'sc, and ride over the most beam if ul avenues in liieState, it is bordered on each side with two rows of pojilar and willow trees, planted by the early Jesuit missionaries nearly 100 years ago. Behind these trees are elegant cottages. 206. CROFUTT S KEW OVERLAND TOURIST beautiful orchards, nurseries, and gardens, containing almost every variety of vege- tables, fruits, and flowers. By steam cars it is 2.0 miles from Santa Clara to San Jose City — (Pronounced San 0-za) ; population, 18,000 This is the county seat of Santa C'iara county, and is the larg- est town in Santa Clara Valley, in popu- lation being the fourth iu the State It was lirst settled by the Spanish mission- aries, in 1777. Tile city is lighted Avith gas; the streets are macadamized, and ornamented with rows of shade trees on each side. Artesian wells, and the " Cali- fornia Wind Mill," together with a small mountain stream, abundantly supply the city with good water. The Alameda, or grove, was planted in 1799. It is by far the prettiest grove of planted timber iu the State, and by many people it is claimed that San Jose is the prettiest city iu the State. It is certainly oue of the btst im- proved, and there are none more beautiful. Its orchards, vineyards and shade trees; its fine private and public buildings, and the delightful climate of the valley, render it a favorite place of summer lesort. San Jose has numerous church edifices — ample public and private schools, hotels, and newspapers. The Mercury and In- dependent, both daily and weekly; the Patriot., daily; and Argus, weekly, are published here. The Auzerais, St. James, Exchange and Lick, are the principal hotels. The city is connected by railroad with Solidad, 72 miles, south, and San Francisco by two lines — the one we came on, through the thickly settled and well- cultivated Santa Clara and San Mateo countries; distance, 50 miles, and by Cen- tral Pacific via JStiles and Oakland. The new road to Mt. Hamilton — 20 miles distant — leaves San Jose, and can be seen winding up the side of the mountain, on the east. It was lor the erection of a college on the summit of Mt. Hamilton — altitude, 4,400 feet — that the millionaire, James Lick, left $150,000 in his will. The building- has l)(?en eom])leted, and reflects much credit on the doner. Stages leave San Jose daily for the noted New Almaden Quicksilver Mines — These mines are very extensive, and should be visited by the curious. They were dis- covered by an officer in the Mexican ser- vice during the year 1845, who, seeing the Indians with their faces juiinted Avith ver- milion, bribed one of them, who told him where it was to be found. The following year, several English and ^Mexicans formed a company for working the mines, large sums of monej" were expended, and maiy difiiculties h;td to be overcome; but finally, by the introduction of important improve- ments, the mines have proved to be very valuable. The difterent mines fu^ni^h em|jloyment for, and support trom l,OiiO to 1,500 persons. Xearly all Ihe miners aie Mexicans. It is supposed that these mines were known and worked by the native Indians of California, long before the country was known by white men. They worked ihem to ju-ocure the vermilion paint whii h the ore contained, for the purpose of painting and adorning their villainous persons, a. d to "swop" with the neighboring tribes. Near the mines are the springs, where is put up the New Ahnaden Vichy Water, so noted for its medieiual qualities. 'I he Guadalupe Quicksilver mines are ten miles distant. Both San Jose and Santa Clara are em- bowered in trees, among which are the oak, eucalyptus, pojdar, ^pruce cei ar, 31onlerey and Italian cj'prci-s, orange, pepper, sycamore, and many others. Leaving San Jose, the State Normal School building is on the left in the center ot a block, surrounded by beautiiul grounds. Several miles further on is ihe Hebrew Cemetery. Here the road to J\it. Hamilton can be plainly seen; it is 22 miles long and JJO leet wide, with a uni- form grade of five feet to the hundreil. Away to the right, on ihe side ol tlic mountain, marked by a red ap|iear .uce, is a quicksilver mine, but the water prevents work. Still Juither and below, is the New Almaden mine, marked by eoiumus of steam that are always a.sceuding. Coyote Creek is now on our left, iu a broad, low bottom. Ihe small stations uf Eden Vale, Coyote and Pekuvs, are soon passed, and lb.8 mires fnnu San Jose, we are at Madrone— The counliy passed over is well settled, and many fine resid' nce.s are scattered along the valley, which is about one mil : in width, with low r. lliug lulls on tlu west. Leaving Madrone, on the right a In ge sharp cone rises up out of the valley l,OuO feet in height. We call it Johnson's Peak, named for the enterprising newsman of this road. Tennants — is four miles further, be- AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 207 yond ■which is the most magnificent moss view that one could conceive, bycamore and moss-drooping oalrincipal hotel, and the Index and Democrat are two weekly x:>apers. Stages leave daily for New Republic, east, three miles; Natividad, north- east,six miles; fare,ten cents per mile. Starting once more for the south, we find this to be the widest portion of Salinas Valley, which is about 90 miles in length, with an average width of eight miles. The valley is situated be- tween the Gabilan mountains, to the eastward, and Santa Lucian Range on the west, about 20 miles from the Pa- cific Ocean, from the winds of which it is protected by the mountain named. Ohualar— is 10.9 miles from Salinas, and consists of several stores, hotels, saloons and a dozen or more resi- PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 203 dencos. Here are cattle pens and shutes, indicating" that we are in a country wliere cattle are shipped to market ; the same might be said of GoxzALES a station six miles farther, only there are a few more people, "scratching" the soil, which is great- ly abused by this shiftless method of farming. Proceeding on 8.4 miles further,we reach the end of the track at SoLEDAD — This is a small i^lace of 100 or more inhabitants, with a few stores, hotels, saloons, stage- stables, freight warehouses, and some private residences. It is a point from which a large amount of freiglit is shipped to the southward, and from whicli a regular daily line of stages run to the following places: Lowe's 28 miles; Solon, 40 miles; Paso Kobles, Hot Sgrings, 80 miles ; San Louis Obispo, 10 miles; Arroyo Grande, 125 iniles; Gaudalupe, 140 miles; Santa Barbara, 220 miles; San Buena Ven- TOWARDS Ho ! for Yo-Semite, the "Big Trees," over tlie "Loup," across the Mojave Desert, down through Solidad and to Los Angeles; then, over the San Barnardino, downujider the sea, over the great Colorado desert, into Ari- zona, through New Mexico cind on to tura, 250 miles, and Newhall, 300 miles; average fare, eight cents per mile. To the westward of Solidad, seven miles, away up a cosy nook of the Coast Range, is situated the Paraiso Springs, which it is claimed, possess medicinal qualities. We could hear of no analysis of these waters, which boil up in close proximity to each other. Some are very hot— others very cold, but soda, iron and white sulphur are the principal ingredients. A hotel will be found at the Springs, Avhere bathing in the waters, hunting, fishing and inhaling the pure moun- tain air can be enjoyed. In conclusion, this is one 61 those trips where a great diversity of scen- ery, numerous objects of interest and the wealth and beauties, and the var- ied productions of the State can be seen and contemplated. Eeturning to San Francisco we start SUNRISE. the "Father Land"— around the circle. Leaving San Francisco, the route is via Oakland, Martinez, and Tracy, to Lathrop, over the track of the Overland line, as described, com- mencing on page 178. Just before reaching Lathrop our 'So. 31 Anxex. aievarta Falls.— In order to form a isroper idea of the superb picture, No. 13, of tbo large series, it will be necessary to preuaiso that the Yo-Seuiito Valley isauiuiuiense gorge, in the western slope of the Sierra Nevada Sloiintains, about seven iniles in length, from east to west, and from oue-eight of a mile to two miles in width, from north to south. The walls surrounding this mighty chasm are nearly per- pendicular, and from 2,000 to 6,000 feet high. The va ious streams that find their way into the vaUey flow overthis tremendous wall on entering. At the eastern end of the valley proper, i t divides ^^to two canyons, projecting still eastward, but alvergiug as they mount the Sierras. Itis through the south of one of these canons, thattlio main branch of the Mercede Kiver flows, and on enter- ing the valley, ifc nrakes two leai^s. The lower one, or Vernal Fall, of 250 feet in height, 100 feet wide, .and from three to four feet deep, where it leaps the square-edged barrier. Continuing \ip the canyon for a mile, above the Vernall Fall, amidst the wildest scenery imaginable, and wo reach the Great Nevada Fall, the subject of our l)icture. The canyon narrows, in a wedge-like form, to qiTite a point, and just at the right of this vortex is the fall. It is i)00 fei-t high, 7.') feet wide at the brink, aixl 130 feet l)elow. B?- garded as to its height, volume, pui'ity of water, and general surroundings, it is one of the grand- est objects in the world. The spectator facing the east will observe on his left the "Cap of Liberty" lifting its rounded summit of S'nooth and weatla- 14 er-polished granite, 2,000 above the Fall, 5,000 feet above tlie valley below, or 9,000 feet above the sea. To paint in words, in the space allowed us, the beauties of the Fall, the bolder scenery, the foliage, mosses and ferns, always moist from the ispray, and brilliant green in summer, the roar ond rush of the fast-flowing river, the majestic grandeur of the rocky frame-work, which towers above and around it, is simply an impossibility ; we shall not try, t)ut refer the reader's imagination and judgment with these statistics to the beautiful picture, which we have engraved from a faithful photograph. Xo. 40 Anxex. lliiTOr Bi,ilc '. Yo- Semite Valley — In the large illustration. No. 12, is presented one of tlie most wonderful, as well as charmingly ijicturesque scenes to be wit^ u-r-ssed in this most romantic valley. As will be seen, it rei^resents one of the most bold and striking views of a charming little sheet of crystaL water of almost a couple of acres in ex- tent, in which numerous schools of speckled ti'out may be seen gaily disporting themselves. The waters are as still as death, as though awed by the wondrious grandeur of its surroTiudings. Close to the southeast stands the majestic ' ' South Dome," 4,.590feetin a'titude above the lake. On the north and west lie immense rocks that have become detached from the top of the mountain, 3,000 feet above ; among these grow a large var- iety of trees and shrubs, many of which stand on and overhang the margin of the lake, and are reflected on its bosom, as in the picture. 210 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. train leaves the track of the Overland and turns to the right, leaving the station build- ing betwei n ours and the Overland track. At Laturop our train stops : minutes for supper, and then turns to the right, up the Great 8an Joacjuin Valley The general direction of our road, for the next 350 miles, is to the southeast. San Joaquin (pronounced San Waw- Keen). — This valley embraces portions of nine counties, and is larger than many kingdoms of the old world, &n(\ far richei\ extending to Visalia, county seat of Tulare county. The amount of grain and stock raised m this valley, and the hundreds of smaller ones tributary to it, is almost in- credible, for a country so recently settled. The valley is about 200 miles in length, and averages about 30 miles in width; comprising near 6,000,000 acres of the richest agricultural lands in the State, besides near a million acres of tuiles and salt marsh lands, which, when reclaimed, prove to be the most fertile lands in the •world. Iflorano — is 5,5 miles from Lathrop, important onlj', as many ether stations ou this road are, as a shipping point for grain, with side-track and great storage ■warehouses. Ripon — comes next, 47 miles further, near which the Stanislaus River is crossed, and three miles more comes ^alida — another small station, with accommodations for shipping and storing grain From Salida it is 6.8 miles to ]flodesto — 'he county seat of Stanis- laus county. It was laid out in 1870, and now contains a population of over 1,500, while the county contains about 11,000 Agriculture is the chief occupation of the people Leaving Modesto, we cross the Tou- lumna River, and in 4.6 miles reach Ceres, a small, unimportant side-track, 8.5 miles from TuRi.oCKS, another small station, 101 miles from Cressev, reached just after crossing the Mercede River. Continuing on 6 7 miles, Atwater is reached. At this station, as well as those we have passed are large buildings for storing grain, as grain-raising — wheat — is the only occu- pation of the settlers. From Atwater it is 7.5 miles to one of the most important places so far on the road, Merced — the county seat of Merced county ; population about 3,000 ; has many fine buildings, including a $75,000 court house and a large firsUclass liotel, the El Capitan, Col. Bross, proprietor. There are two weekly papers published in Mercede, the Argus and the Exprtss. From Merced it is ten miles east, to the foot-hills and thirty to the western edge of the valley, at the base of the Contra Costa Range. The county of Merced is the richest in the valley ; it had 360,700 acres of land under cultivation in 1870, which yielded a little over 4 500,000 bushels of wheat, be- sides large quantities of barley, rye, corn, peas, beans, potatoes, hay, tobacco, cotton and many other kinds of crops The county contains a population of 65,000, most of whom are tilling the soil In this county was raised the finest cotton in the State. The value of these lands ranges from $250 to $10 per acre. The game is plentiful in the river bot- toms and along the foot-hills. Irrigating cnals convey water over a great portion of the land. Some of these canals are quite extensive ; one, the San Joaquin & Kings River Canal is 100 miles long, 68 feet wide and six feet deep. For several y' ars the greater portion of the travel for Yo-Scmite Valley and the big tree groves took stages at Merced passing over tlie route, via Coulterville or Mari- posa, but a new route (see map, page 120) has been laid out from Madera, 33 miles further south, which, it is claimed, makes the distance by stage mucli shorter, and over a better road However, we shall give both routes in Annex No 53, and tourists can decide which Ihey will take. Should they go in on one and' out on the other route, little of the scenery will be overlooked. (See i^age 184.) 3Iariposa — county seat of Mariposa county, is 45 miles oast, reached by stage from Pierced. This town contains about 1,000 itiliabitants Once it was noted for its rich placer mines, but now quartz mining is the principal occupation of the people. In Bear Valley are the mills and mines (or a portion of them) belonging to the " Las ^lariposa Grant,"' or tlic Fremont estate, as it is usually called The Benton mills are on the Mercede River, about two miles from the town, reached by a good dug road, down a very steep mountain In Mount Ophir and Princeton, mining towns near by, are large quartz mills, belonging to the estate and extensive min s. Leaving Merced, it is 9.9 miles to Atlilone— is a small station near the crossing of Mariposa River, beyosd CKOFUTT'S NEW OVEKLAND TOURIST 211 ■which the Conchilla River is crossed, and MiNTUKN is reached 6.4 miles Iroin Plains- hurg, iu the extreme western edge of Fresno county. For a long distance the foot-hills of the Sierras on the left have appeared to be close and very rugged. The peaks of Mt. Lyell and Hitter loom up on tli t left, full 80 miles away, and a litUe further south- ward Mts. Goddard, King, Gardner, Brewer, Sillimau, Tyndall and others can be d.stinctly seen with their summits covered with snow. Berenda— is reached 9.5 miles from Mintuvn soon after which we cross the Fresno lliver, and many broad, sandy, dry creeks, and, 7.5 miles more, come to Madera— This is a busy town ot about 800 |)opulation. Here we find a large " V " tiume, 53 mi'es long, for fioat- ing^lumber down from the saw-mills in the mountains at the end of the flume. It was completed in 1876, and does an immense business. From Madera, a new road has been completed into the Yo-Semite Valley, via Fresno Flats, through Fresno and Mari- posa big tree groves. For map of route, see page 120, "and for description of route, Annex No. 53, page 184. I No visitor to this coast ever thinks of leaving it without viewing the wonderful. Yo-Semite Valley and the Big Trees — The grandest scenery on the American Continent, if not iu the world, is to be seen in the valley of the Yo- Semite, (pronounced Yo-Sem-i-te; by the Indians, Yo-Ham-i-te). This valley was discovered by white men in March, 1851, first by Major Savage. It is about eight miles long, and from one-half to a mile in "width. The Merced River enters tlie head of the valley by a series of waterfalls, which — combinecl with the perpendicular granite walls which rise on either side from 2,000 to 6,000 feet above the green valley and sparkling waters beneath — pre- sents a scene of beauty and magnificence unsurpasseu. except, possibly, in child- hood's faii-y dreams. Here is majesty — enchanting — awe-in- spiring — indescribable!*— ihe lofty cloud- capped waterfalls and mirrored lakes ; the towering, perpendicular granite clifl's and fearful chasms, strike the beholder with a wondering admiration impossible to de- scribe. We have often desired to take our read- ers with us, in a pen and pencil descrip- tion'of this most remarkable valley, and the " Big Trees," but in view of our lim- ited space, the magnitude of the under- taking, together with our conscious in- ability to do justice to the subject, we have contented ourselves by giving a number of beautiful illustrations, which include the great Yo-Semite Falls, Nevada Falls, Mir- ror Lake, ana a map of the routes and tiie surrounding country, showing the rela- tive position of the valley, trees, and ad- .ioining towns to the railroaa. The most notable falls in Yo-Semite Valley are: the Ribbon, 3,300 feci fall; the Upper Yo-Semite, 2,634 feet; the Bridal Veil, 950; the Nevada, 700; the Lower Yo-Semite, 600; the Vernal, 350 feet. Tiie South Dome is 6,0i;0 feet high; the Three Brothers, 4,000; Cap of Liberty, 4,240 ; Three Graces, 3,750 ; North Dome, 3,725; Glaciers Point, 3,705; El-Capitain, 3 300; Sentinel Rocks, 3,270; Cathedral Rocks, 2,690; Washington Tower, 2,200; and the Royal Arches, 1,800 feet high. The Fresno Grove of Big trees has not heretofore been accessible to the tourist, and will thereiore form a new and attract- ive feature to this modern route. Like the Mariposa Grove, it is divided into two groves, usually called the Upper and Lower, about one mile apart, and covering a mile square each — together they contain from 800 to 900 trees of the Sequoia Gigantea of all sizes. One in the Upper Grove meas- ures 88 feet in circumference 6 feet from the ground. In the Lower Grove there is one that is 95 feet in circumference 3 feet from the ground. ' From Madera, we find a grazing coimtr}- ; large herds of sheep abound. The old Fresno placer mines are to the eastward, along tne foot-hiiis, but little is being done with them, by the whites; tlie Chinese are working them over, as they are many of the abandoned placers throughout the State. Borden — on Ottonwood Creek, is the next station. This place is_;i.« miles from Madera, with about 100 population. Here irrigating ditches apptar on each side, and much of the laud is under culti- vation. Nine miles furtlier comes Syca- MOiiE, a side-track of little account, just at the crossing of the San Joaquin llivtT, which is here a small stream, with very little water. The country is now quite flat, with many little roun,I mounds froni ten to thirty feet in diameter, and from two to five feet iu height. They present a very peculiar appearance, somewhat re- 212 PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. sembling a prairie dog town, only much larger, and uitliout the hole in the top. From 8ycam' re it is !).8 miles to I'^'resno— the county seat of Fresno county, a coimty the most diversified in the State, where land can be purchased for from $8.U0 to $10 per acre. The town of Fresno has a population of about HOO , has a $60,00U court-house, some good business blocks, two weekly newspapers — the Ex- positor and Rfoiew — and is a thrifty, growl- ing place. The soil about the town is largely clay, producing well when irri- gated, but never a seed without. A most beautiful view is here to be ob- tamed of the mountains on the left; the principal peaks rise from 12,000 to 14,000 feet above tliis valley, covered with snow the year round Planted timber appears at places, and some of the private resi- dences are surrounded by trees, mostly eucalyptus A stage line runs to Centreville, seventeen miles east. Several schemes are in hand for building large irrigating canals, taking the water from the San Joaquin and King's rivers, which, when completed, will be of great benelil to tins people. To the southwest, three and a half miles, is located the Caiitbrnia Colony of about 125 families The colony's laud is regu- larly laid out for a town, with 40 acres of ground for each family. The canal that supplies water to the colony is crossed about five miles after leaving Fresno. Little of tlie laud along here lying near the road is cultivated, but wheu the irrigating canals spoken of are completed, they Avill all be found occupied and yieldmg large crops. From Fresno it is 9.6 miles to FO'wler— a small station where trains seldom stop, there being only half-a-dozen iuildings— so we roll on 10.5 miles fm-- eing of tlie same nature as that in the " Mussel Slough Country" before named. The irrigating canals are extensive. One is over 40 miles in length, with a width of from 100 to 275 feet, eight feet deep, cost $100,000. Besides the canals there arc many farms that are irriga- ted by wells and wind-mills. There is one ranehe, nine miles fitDm Bakers- field, that contains 7,000 acres, on which are two flowing artesian wells, of seven inches bore, one 200 and the other 300 feet deep. From these wells the water rises twelve feet above the surface, and discharges over 80,000 gallons per day. On this ranehe are over 150 iniies of >o. 4 J Annex. JViLouiit H»«iast^ — us siiowu in No. 1 r>, of our large views, is a prominent fea- ture in tli'3 landscaije of the Sacramento Valley, attlio head of which it is located. Th'j view is looking to the northeast. In thofore- gronndis the broad Valley of the Sacramento, then como toweriog forest trees, massive rocks, and a variety of foliage, npou -which altefnato patches of shade and sunlight are thrown with striking effect. Abovo all, towering high in mid- air, M.jni:t Shasta sprincjs, in a series of graceful curves, far up into an almost unclouded heaven, its sides and suhimits eulioldod in the eternal snows. The contrast between the verdure-clad valley and the cold, wintry peaks of old Shasta, king of mountains, is a chief interest in the pic- ture, reminding the spectator of some of the most striking effects of Alpine scenerv. IMt. Shasta is 14,-14.0 feet hi::h. (See page I GO.) !*<». -iU A.N'.vii.K. 'S'K** lai'tjo view.No. i«, o^^ San Francisco and the Golden Gate, is a real mul' tuni iiijtnrvo — a complete bird's eye view of the city of San Francisco and its surroundiags, cov- ering a scope of country about twelve miles in diameter — showing the Golden Gate, portions of San Francisco Bay, the I'aciflc Ocean in the dis- t.inco, and the Pier of the Central Pacific rail- road in the foreground, from whence passengers are transferred across the bay to " Frisco. " This beautiful picture has been prepared find engraved expressly for this book. It shows what the God- dess of "American Progress "—as represented by view No. 1— hag accomplished within the past few years, and is a very appropriate illustration with which to close our series of large views from Ocean to Ocean. Crofutt's Grip-Sack Guide tells all about Co- lorado. Sold on the trains. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 215 CROSbING THE LOOP OVER TUNNEL NO. 9, TEHACHAPI PASS. canalrf and irrigatin.i? ditches, 32 miles of hog- tight board fence; 4,000 acres are under cultivation, 3,000 of which are in alfalfa, from which four and six crops a year are cut. Neai'cr Balcers- field, the same party, Mr. H. P. Liver- more, has another large ranche, with 500 acres in alfalfa, and 3,000 in wheat and barley. On these ranches arc 8,000 sheep, 4,000 stock cattle, 300 cows, 350 horses, 100 oxen, 70 mules, and 1,- 500 hogs. The same party makes all his own reapers, mowers, harvesters, plows, harrows, threshing machines and cultivators — everj'thing in use on the place, except steam engines. He has one plow, the " Great Western," which is said to be the largest in the world. It weighs something over a ton and is hauled by 80 oxen, cutting a furrow five feet wide and three feet deep, and moving eight miles a day. Another plow called " Sampson," is used for ditching, and requires 40 mules to work it. Another party in the county has 40,- 000 sheep, 2,000 acres in alfalfa, and raises fiO, 000 bushels of grain. Another poor fellow raised, in 1877, 84.000 lbs. of pumpkins and sweet potatoes; some of the former weighed 210 lbs., and of the latter some weighed 154 pounds. While attending to these lit- tle vegetables, lie would occasionally X«>, 37 Amxex. Fal»« of tlio ■^"I'i" 'amet'o Itiver.^The scene of the lai-ge illustration, No. 9, represents the Falls of the Willamette Kivcr, at Oregon City, Oregon, where the hills approach the river on each side, forcing the ri-\-er through a deep canyon, and over a fall of from 30 to 40 feet. Tho clitfs on either side of the river ri«o abruptly hundreds of f^^etiu height, and ara cov- ered at the top and less i^rccipitous places,with a growth of evergreens. Licks aie built on the Oregon City side of the river, large enough ti ad- mit the ijassage of boats 200 feet long and 40 feet in -width. Water power is also supplied from the same Boiircc of 4,000 horse powers, which is used for running woolen mills and other manufactories at Oregon City. 21(3 CROFUTTS NEW OVERLAND TOURIST look after a small band of sixteen thousand sheep. But enough of this. We could fill our book with these and many otlier astonish- ing figures. " Well," you will say, ' these California farmers should be contented and bai^py men." OiUi would think so, but lliey are not. They are the most inveterate grumblers of any class of people in the world. All Californians will, in the inter- vals between grumbles, express the opinion that there is no place under the blue canopy of heaven so good for a white rtian to live in as California. Ah, welll are they cor- rect? Fers'HiaHy, were it necessary, our affirm could be fbrthcoming. Returning to Summer, twelve miles, Ibrings us to a small place called Pampa, an 1 7 3 miles more to C»ftlieiite— Since leaving Summer, the grade has increased ; the valley has been gradually narrowing by the closing in of the mountain ranges on each side, leaving only a narrow strip of land. Rearing this station, it still more contracts, until a deep canyon is reached, in the mouth of which is located Caliente, surrounded by towering clift's. There are several -tores, one hotel and a large station and freight warehouse at this place. A large amountof freight is re-shipped at this point, on wagons, for the surrounding country. Stages leave this station daily for Havilah, 25 miles; Kern- ville, 45 miles; fare about 14 cents per mile. These stages carry passengers, mails and express. Tourists should now note the elevations; Caliente is 1,'?90 feet above sea level ; within the next 25 miles the train will rise to the summit of Tehachapi Pass, to an a titude of 3,964 feet, an average of over lOG feet to the mile. Within this dis- tance we shall find some of the grandest scenery on the whole line ; will pass through 8evente< >i tunnels, with an aggregate length of 7,683.9 feet, and then "over the LOOP," one of the greatest engineering feats in the workl ; feat where a railroad islike a good Roman Catholic — madeto cross itself. But here, the difi'erence is in favor of the ,ra Iroad, as these Califotnians v/ill always be a l-e-e-tle ahead; it does its crossing on a run, upgrade, tnwardheim n- [Any design to indicate the route of the good Catholic i s disclaimed.] See illustrations on paares 214 and 215. Away up the canyon, the grade of tlie road can be seen at a number of places where it winds around the points of pro- jecting mountain spurs, from which points we will sonn be able to look down upon Caliente. Leaving the station, our route will be found illustiattd on page 214. Caliente is at the foot of the mountains, at the e.x:- treme further end of the dotted line, which indicates the course of the road, and shows its windings, the Loop and the surrounding country, on a flat surface. As we ascend the narrow canyon, the road gradually commences to climb the side of the c itt's on the right, leaving the bed of the canyon far below, on the left. Up, up, around rocky points and the head of small ravines, over high embankments, through deep cuts, and tunnels " One " and ' Two," a dis- tance of 5 3 miles from Caliente, we arrive at Hoalville — This is a small station named in honor of General Beal. late minister to Austria, who owned 200,000 acres of land in tiiis county. Oaks, cedar and spruce trees are to be seen in the gorges and on the mountain side, where a sufficient soil is left between the rocks and an occasional shrub of the manzanita, along the road. Continuing our climb, the ravines are deeper at every turn ; tunnels No. three, four and five are passed through, each revealing in its turn, new wonders and rapid changes. No. five tunnel is the longest on this "Pass." after passing which and No six tunnel, the can- yons on the left become a fearful gorge. Just after emerging from the sixtii tun- nel, by looking away down the canyon, Caliente can be seen, and at the rounding of nearly every mountain spur for some miles further. Continuing our climb, winding around long rocky points and the head of deep ravines, twisting and turning to gain altitude, the scenery is wondrous in its rapid changes. The old Los Angeles and ^an Francisco wagon road can be seen in places, where it. too, winds around the side of the mountain, and in others, along the little ravines anil larger canyons. The opposite mountains now loom up in hug(! proportions, rocky, jieaked and rag- ged, a full thousand feet above our heads, and double that amount above the bottom of the canyon below. Soon alter passing tunnel- seven and eight ; agai n we look down from dizzy heights into ft a rf id, fearful chasms, tip along curve to the right, and we are at a jioint where the mountains, from ten to twenty miles to the south and westward can be seen, the peaks of many covered with snow. M.eene— is reached 8.3 miles from AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 217 Bcalville. This station is not au impor- taut one, and trains do not always stop, but pass on, across two bridges in quicli suc- cession, many deep gravel-cuts, and then, after curving to tlie'jiglit, we approacli the " Loop " and tunnel "No. nine. Passing through tliis tunnel, we start ou the grand curve around the " Loop," and soon find our- selves o«e?' the tunnel Rud in the position of the train as illustrated on page 215. This "Loop" is 340 miles from San Francisco, is 3,795 feet in length, with an elevation of 2,956 feet at the lower and 3,084 feet at the upper ti'aok, making a difference between tracks, of 78 feet. Leaving the "Loop," our tram continues to climb and curve, first to the left, then to the right, and after passing through two more tunnels, Nos. 10 and 11, conies to ^Oerard — a station 5.4 miles from Keene, more in name than fact. Here the old Tehachaiii Pass stage road ap- pears. The mountains are not as high above us, but are rough, broken, and ragged, covered in many places with stunted, scrubby pines and cedars. Rolling on, we pass tlirough, in quick succession, tunnels Nos. 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17, be- sides a number of short bridges, and come to more open ground; pass Gracevil'e, once an old stage station— on the right, and 6.4 miles from Gerard arrive at Tehachapi l^miiiiiit— elevation, 3,964feet— the highest on the road. This station consists of one store, a liotel, tele- graph office, and half-a-dozen buildings. To the southeast about five miles distant, a marble quarry is reported, of good quality. The station is situated ou a high grassy plateau, of a few thousand acres, with high mountain ranges to the east and west, and although near" 4,000 feet in alti- tude the climate is so mild and agree- able that some years the crops are very good, and grazing excellent. JNIany sheep are to be seen in the valley and on the hills which are covered with fine grass. Leaving the summit, we run along this plateau for a few miles, and then commence a gradual descent towards the Mojava Desert. To the right is a small lake— dry in summer — wherc'salt can be shoveled up by the wagon load. About eight miles from the Summit, the little valley down which we have been rolling, narrows to a few liundred feet with high canyon walls on each side. Cameron — is the first station from Summit, 9.2 miles distant, of little account. Near this station we fiud the first of the snecies of cactus, as illustrated on page 221. In this country they are called the Yucca Palm — These trees grow quite large, sometimes attaining a diameter of from two to tlireefeet, and a height of from 40 to 50 feet. They are peculiar to the ]\Io. Java Desert, where they grow in immense numbers, presenting the appearance, at a distance, of au orchard of fruit trees. Everything is said to have its uses, and this cactus, or \)a\m — ai)pareutly the most worthless of all things that grow, is being utilized in the manufacture of paper, and with very good results. One mill is al- ready in operation at Ravena, and consid- erable shipments have been made. The supply of " raw material " is cer;ainly abundant, and if the quality of the paper is as good as reported, the Mojava Desert may be able to show cause why it was created. Leaving Cameron, our train speeds along lively, ana 5.2 miles we come to Kadean — soon after emerging from the canyon. It is a side-track surrounded by s.ige-brush, sand hills and cactus. Away to the left are several lakes, dry the greater portion of the year, but having the appear- ance of water at all times, owing to the water being very salt, and leaving a thick deposit on the bed of the lake when dry. From Nadeau, it is 5.6 miles to the end of the Tulare division, at Mojava — (Pronounced Mo-ha-vey.) At times, the " Mojava Zephyr " is any- thing but a genVe zephyr, j-et, by using both hands, any person of ordinary strength can keep their hat on. The surroundings of this place are not very beautiful, situ- ated as it is on a desert; but for its size, it is a busy place. It is a regular eating station where trains stop half an hour, and good meals are served, at the Mojava House, close to the depot — on Main St. The place consists of several stores, one hotel, large station building and freight u-arehouse, a 15-stall j ound-house, a repair and machine shop and about a dozen pri- vate residences. The water used at the station comes in pil)es from Cameron station, eleven miles uorlh. A large amount of freight is re- shipped from this station ou wagons to Darwin, 100 miles, and Independence, 168 miles, in Inyo county — to the northeast — on the east side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. Eeturning, these, wagons are loaded with bullion from the mines. Tlie 218 CROFUTT S NEAV OVERLAND TOURIST Cerro Gordo Freighting Co., who do most of this freight hauling, employ 700 head of animals. Stages leave Mojava every alternate day, carrying passengers, mails and express to Darwin, 100 miles : Cerro Gordo, 135 miles ; Lone Pine, 150 miles, and Independence, 168 mile--* to the northeast; fare, 14 cents per mile. Mojava is the commencement of the Los Angeles Division. The proposed route of the Southern Pacific railroad — as successor of ihe rights granted to the old Atlantic and Paciiic Co , to the Colorado River, at the Needles — diverge? at this point, and runs due east. The lowest point of the Mojava Plains crossed by the railroad sur- vey, is at the sink of the Mojava River, 188 miles east. Its elevation is 960 feet, the highest point being 3,935 feet, at the summit of Granite Pass. The crossing of the Colorado, at the Needles, is 254 miles east from Mojava. Leaving Mojava, our course is south, over the desert, from which rise great numbers of round buttes; they are of all sizes, from a half-acre at the base, to several acres ; from one hundred to five hundred feet in heiglit. Most of these buttes run to a peak, and are grooved or worn out bv the elements into small ravines, from summit to base, presenting a peculiar appearance. The cactus, or palms, are very numerous. Passing Gloster, 6.6 miles from Mo- java, where there is not even aside-track, and 7.2 miles further, we arrive at ^and Creek — where trains seldom stop. To the left, ten miles, is Mirage Lake, which looks like water, but is mostly sand and alkali. (For a descrip- tion of this remarkable phenomena, see page 142.) feoledad Mountain can now be seen on our right, through which our road finds a way, but where and how, does not appear. Large numbers of sheep range over these plains at timts, and appear to thrive. From Sand Ch'eek, it is eleven miles to L.\NCASTER, a side-track, and 10.9 miles further we come to Alpine — For the last twenty miles the ))alms have been very numerous, but we shall soon leave them and the desert. Scrub cedar, sand cuts — some very deep — are now in order, while rapidlv climbing up to the summit of the buiedad Pass, which we reach four miles from Alpine, crossing it at an elevation of 3,211 feet, and then descend to Acton — a distance of 0.7 miles from Alpine. This is an unimportant station ]V«. SU Annex. Pioneer Mail Eiiter- pri>»es — Crossing the Sierras on Snow- Skates. — The rapid settlement of the fertile val- leys lyiug at the eastern base of th:i High Hiei-ras of Caiifornia, created a want for maii facilities iu advance of regular methods. It is well known that previoiis to the winter of 18.")4, the fearless settlers of this isolated inland world were shut out from communion with the great throbbing heart of civilization on the outside for three or four months of every year, by that almost inac- cessible and snow-clad range. Those whose te- merity let events bid defiance to this battle- ground of the storms, and sought to scale its snowy-ramparts, too frequently became snow- blind, or foi)t-frozen: or, still more freijueujly, lay down to that sleep which knows no waking — their only mantle the fast-falling snow. In this emergency one brave heart, at least, was found to dare the perilous task of carrying the UnitfHl States mail to those enterprising i)io- neers. It was Mr. John A. Thompson, a Norwe- gian. Early education and habit had made him an adept in the use of tho snow skate. "Without hesitation he made a contract with T. J. Matte- sou, of Murphy's Camp, Calaveras county, to continue postal service in winter, as well as in summer, over the route, via the Calaveras grove of big trees (the only grove then known), to Car-. son City, for S'200 per month, without regard to the depth of suow. Our illustration introduces our hero in propria personam. It will be seen at a glance that the snow-skate is totally unlike the Indian or Cana- dian snow-shoe — the latter being adapti'd mainly t ) a light, loose suow aud level country ; and the former to compact masses aud mountainous dis- tricts. The " shoe," moreover, is of slow snd la- borious use ; whereas, the " skate " is of exceed- ingly rapid and exhilirating adaptability — espe- cially on down grades, when its speed is fre- quently cqiial to the ordinary locomotive. The motion is a slide -not a step. The pole in the mail carrier's hand acts as a brake on down grades, and as a propeller up hill. In Sierra cvIiall— a small station named for a Mr. Newhall, who owns 50,000 acres of laud in the vicinity, on which range thousands of cattle and sheep. The South- ern Plotel with accommodations for 150 guests, a beautiful ])ark, and a planted grove of trees are among the late improvements. Stages leave this station daily for Ven- tura, 50 miles; Santa Barbara, 80 miles; San Louis Obispo, 1!)0 miles; Paso-R(»l)le3 Hot Springs, 220, and 6oledad, 300 miles, at the end of the Smithern Paeific railroad, in Salinas Valley, as noted in excursion No. 5. These stages carry passengers, mails and express. We now confront the San Fernando Mountains on the south, which rise up be- fore us, towering to the skies, in one great black solid mass, apparently presenting an in-' penetrable barrier to our further progress. Such was the case until the engineers of this road, failing to find any way overihem, resolved to pierce throufjh'tliem, wiiich was done, resulting in a tunnel 0,967 feet long, built in a straight line and timbered all the way. These mountains, as stated, are high, rising up out of the valley from -22(1 ( KOFUTT S XEW OVEULAXD TOTUIST 2,500 to 3,000 feet, but narrow— a huge •" liog-back " ridge. Leaving Newliall, it is 1.0 miles to Andre ivs — To the west of this station, about four miles, are located teveral oil wells, in a region said to be very rich in oil. Two refineries have been established at this station, which lurnish for shipment about one car-load per day. Live oaks and some wh te oaks are numerous along the road aud on the sides of the low-hills, for the last fifteen miles, making the country look more cheerful than it other- wise would. Leaving Andrews, we soon commence to ascend, passing through deep cuts to the San Fernando Tunnel — This tunnel, as before stated, is 0,907 feet in length, timbered all the way, and is reached from the north up a grade of 110 feet per mile ; grade in tunnel, 37 feet per mile; grade be- yond tunnel— south -for five miles, 100 feet per mile; elevation of tunnel, 1,400 leet. The view, from the rear end of the car, while passing through the tunnel, is quite an interesting one. The light, on entering the great bore, is large and bright, the smooth rails glisten like burnished silver in the sun's rays. Gradually ttie light lessens in brilliancy; the rails become two long ril)'jons of silver, sparkling through the impenetrable dark- ness; gradually these lessen, the light fades — and fades, and fades — the entrance is apparently not larger than a pin's head, and then ail light is gone and darkness reigns supreme — and still Ave are not through. It is the history of many a life : the hriglit hopes of youth expire tcith age. As we emerge from the tunnel, the valley of San Fernando dawns a l)right vision of beauty upon us. Here we enter, as it were, a new world of verdure and fruitfulne-s — a land literally " flowing with milk and houey." From the tunnel we have de- scended rapidly, 5.3 miles to San Fernando— named for the famous old mission of San Fernando, lo- cated about two miles to the right, embow- ered in lovel}' groves of orange, lemon and ol ive trees. It is in the middle of the valley of the same name, surrounded by moun- tain ranges. The San Fernando Moun- tains are on the east and north, the Coast Range on the West, and the Sierra Smta Monica on the west and south. The greater portion of the western and central part of the valley is under a high state of -cultivation, but the eastern, along whei'e our road is built, is covered with sage- brush, cactus, grease-wood, small cedars and mesquite shrubs. The station is of little account— only a few buildings, a store, hotel, cattle pen and shutes make up the place. Leaving the station, we pass groves of planted irees; those on the right, of the eucalypti species. Sepulveda— is the next station, 12.5 miles south of San Fernando. It is situated on the east bank of Los Angeles River, where passenger trains meet and pass. Continuing along down the valley — which now begins to present an improved appear- ance— y.6 miles we come to East Los Angeles. £os Angeles .fnnction— is sit- uated about one mile east of the city, from which street-cars run regularly; fare, 10 cents or four tickets for 25 certs. The lii-incipal hotels, the Pico and St. Charles, charge from $2 to $3 per day ; the United States and Lafayette from |1.50 to $3.00, all of which send buses to the depot, on ar- rival of trains. XiOS Anjjeles ! — xVh, here we are at the " City of the Angels !" Los Angeles is the county seat of Los Angeles county, situated on the Los Angeles River, 34 miles north from the port of San Pelro; but the principal shipping point is at Wilmington, about two miles ahove San Pedro, at the head of the l>aj', with which it is connected by railroad 33 miles dis- tant. It is also connected with Santa ^lonica by rail, 18 miles to the westward, where steamers land from up and down the coast. The city contains a population of about 10,000— has many fine business blocks, three banks, several large, flue hotels, chief of which is the Pico. The churches and school i are all that could be de.sired, both in numbers and qualit}'. There are four daily, seven weekly, and a number of miscellaneous publications. Tlie dailies are: the Star,Exprei>s Ileridd, and the R'puhlican. Water for irrigation in the city is sup- plied by Los Angeles River, and by wind- mills. The manufactories are not very numerous, the shops of the Railroad Com- pany being the principal ones. The town is a railroad center, commanding an ex- tensive trade at present, and in t c future it fears no rival. It is already connected with Santa Monica, on the west, 18 miles; Wilmington, on the south, 33 miles; Santa Ana, on the southeast, 33 miles; Yuma, on the east, 348 mil"s, and San Francisco, AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 221 norlli, 470 miles. Los Angeles is an old town, having been settled in 1771. It is located at the southern base of the Sierra Santa Monica range on a gradual slope, and is completely embowered in foliage. The vineyards, in and around the city, are very numerous ; they are to be seen on all sides, equaled only by the number of orange, lemon, and fruit orchards. It is really a city of gardens and groves. Then, as one rides to the westward, or the southward, mag- nificent plantations stretch away as far as thi eye can reach. Here is the wealth of the tropics ; here can be seen the orange, lemon, lime, pomegranate, fig, and all kinds of tropical and semi-tropical fruits, at- taining to the greatest perfection; here will be seen the huge palm-tree, the banana, the beautiful Italian and Monterey cypress, the live oak, pepper, and the eucalyp- tus, as well aa the orange trees in the grounds and YUCCA PALM OF jMojAVA DESERT. See page 217. and lemon parks, gar- dens and lawns, of almost every citizen's residence. One orchard — situated in the heart of the city, the " Wolfkill " — con- tains 100 acres. Jn this orchard are 2,600 orange trees, 1.000 lime, and 1,800 lemon trees; besides, there are adjoining 100 acres in vineyard. But why particularize V Look where you will, and you will see vineyards and orchards laden with luscious fruits, and will be re:tdy to exclaim: "Why, oh, why was 'mother Eve' driven outV" Leaving Los Angeles, we W'ill take the cars on the Los Angeles axd Independence Rail- road — under the management of the " Central " Company, of which Mr. E. K. Hewett is Ass't Superintendent, and speed away to the westward. The tirst few miles is through the edge of the city, and then past a succession of vineyards, orange and fruit orchards, nurseries and groves of planted trees. Then come broad fields and pretty little farm-houses; then through a succession of deep sand cuts, and the broad ocean appears, and then li^anta Monica— called by some the " Long Branch of the Pacific Coast." It is certainly a beautiful location, and if it does not attain the same popularity as its namesake, oa the Jersey shore, it will not be for lack of natural advantages. Its location is one of surpassing loveliness-— in front the Pacific Ocean ; in the back- ground the noble range of the Sierra Madre. Far out to the seaward looms up mistily the island of Catalina. The facili- ties for bathing could hardly be better. The beach is fine, the sand hard and smooth, and the slope gradual, with na terrors of imdertow to appal timid swim- mers. The ]>lace is protected from cold winds by a prominent head-land, and the climate is very ec^uable. 222 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST The following table shows the mean tem- perature of January and July in Califor- Bia and other States and countries, taken from reliable sources: Place. San Francisco. Monterey Santa Barbara . Lo-i Angeles . .. Santa Monica.. San Diego . .. . .Sacramento Humboldt Bay. Sonoma Vallejo Fort Yuma Cincinnati New York New Orleans... Naples Honolulu Mexico London Bordeaux Mentone Marseilles Genoa Jan'y July. Differ- 1 ence. Des'e Dege Degre 49 8 5i 5 6 54 7 17 5C 1> 23 52 69 17 51 72 21 45 73 28 40 58 18 45 66 21 48 67 19 56 92 36 30 74 44 31 77 42 ■ 55 82 27 4G 76 80 71 78 7 52 65 13 37 6?i 25 41 73 32 40 73 33 43 75 32 46 77 31 Latitude Deg. min. 37 48 36 24 04 02 41 34 44 13 05 43 06 37 57 52 16 26 29 50 41 17 24 It will be seen by referring to the above table that Southern California possesses a climate unexcelled in equability by any portion of the world, and of the happiest medium between the extremes of heat and cold. Santa Monica has these advantages of temperature in a special degree, the air being modified by the ocean to a point most agreeable ami invigorating, both to the pleasure-set ker and the invalid. The bathing house, situated on the beach, about lifiy feet above the water, is the finest on the coast. It is a large building sujiplied with baths of all kind.s, where the bathers liave within reach, faucets by which a supply of either fresh or salt water, hot or cold, can be instantly obtained by the effort of turning them on. Here, too, are steam, swimming, and plunge baths, be- sides the ordinary ocean baths, accommo- dations for which ample provision is made. Santa Monica was tirst laid out as a town in 1875, and in two years attained a popu- lation of 800. It has some good stores, and quite a number of good hotels, chief of which are the Santa Monica Hotel, and Ocean House; the latter has accommoda- tions for about 50 guests, and the former for 125. These houses are so situated as to command a most extensive view. Their charges are from $12 to $18 per week. S»nt* Monica had its newspaper once — the Outlook — but we hear it has moved, and is now a lookrotU at Ana- heim. Point Dumas, a prominent head-land to the northwest, is 13 miles distant. Point Vincent, to the southwest, is 20 miles distant. Santa Rosa Island, west, is 91 miles distant; Santa Barbara Island, south of west, is 25 miles distant; San Nicholas Island, 87 miles in the same direction, and Santa Catalina Island, south, is about 40 miles distant. These islands are a great protection to Santa Monica from the wrath of old Pacific, when he becomes excited. The wharf, which was built from the end of the railroad to deep water, affording a landing for coast steamers, was destroyed in 1878, but we presume will be rebuilt. in the range of the mountains on the north, game of many varieties can be found, and in the lagoons south of the town, ducks, geese, snipe, curlews, and other varieties of game are abundant. The drives are very fine, being along the beach for many miles, and then, on the high plateau 500 feet above, extending for many miles, affording a most extended view ; or, up to the natural springs on the side of the mountain, which furnish the town with water, bubbling up like a fountain, and is caught in a large basin or pond, for city use. A popular excursion is up Santa Mo- nica Canyon to Manville Glen — a wild, rugged mountain-place covered with old forest trees, down which ripples one of the neatest little brooks imaginable. The point of the mountain above has become a very popular camping giound, where camps are made, and parties spend months in rambling over the mountains and en- joying the ocean baths, etc. There are some beautiful countiy resi- dences about Santa !Monica, among which is one of Senator Jones, of Nevada. Returning to Los Angeles, we take the Wilmington Division — and start di- rectly south through a succession of vine- yards, gardens, orange and fruit orchards, to Florence, six miles from Los Angeles. At this station the track of the San Diego Division branches off" to the left. But we continue south, through broad, well-culti- vated fields, where the good efiects of irri- gation are shown, by large crops of vege- tables, which abound in the section we are now traversing. Gradually the rich soil gives place to alkaline and salt flats, and sloughs, with occasionally a few bands of sheep on the mpre elevated lands. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 223 About two miles before reaching Wil- mington, we pass, on the right, embowered in trees, the old headquarters of the Mili- tary Department, of Southern California and Arizona, abandoned in 1870. When the Government had no further use for the property it was sold, and is now used by the Protestants, and called Wilson's College. Wilmmgton contains a population of about 500, most of whom are engaged in the shipping interests. At the long wharf are great warehouses, beside which, vessels drawing twelve feet of water, can lay and load and unload from and into the cars of the railroad, which run the whole length of the wharf. Vessels drawing 15 feet of water can cross the bar, two miles below, but are unable to reach the wharf, and are unloaded two miles below. Inside the bar is a ship channel, per- fectly sheltered, several miles in length, with a width of from 400 to 500 feet, and a depth, at low tide, of from 20 to 25 feet, shoaling at its head to 12 feet. The Government has expended over half a million of dollars to improve the harbor at this place; the breakwater is G,700 feet long, and when completed, it will be of incalculable advantage to the people of this section of country. Wilmington is a point where immense quantities of ties and redwood lumber are landed from the Humboldt Bay country, 200 miles north of San Francisco, on the coast, and also where are landed large quantities of coal from the Liverpool ves- sels that come here to load with grain. The coal is brought for ballast, more than for profit. Rattlesnake Island is in front of the liar- bor — sand principally San Pedro Point is two miles south, and Point Fermin, around that point to the we-t, reached by wagon-road around the beach or over the blutfs, six miles distant Deadman's Island is a small,isolated rocky peak, where commences the breakwater improvement below Point Pedro. Fermin Point is on the most prominent headland on the west, surmounted with a light of the first order, [which is kept by two ladies.] Near this point, in stone, is the subject of our illustration, below, called San Pedro's Wife or the " Woman OF THE Period." The distance from Wilmington by steamer to San Francisco is 387 miles; to San Diego, 95 miles ; to Santa Catalina Island, 20 miles. This ' sland is owned by the Lick estate, is 35 miles long and ten wide, on which are some gold mines, and great numbers of sheep and goats. SAN Pedro's wife or, thp woman of the period. 22-1 CROFUTT S NEW OVEULAXD TOUIUST The Island San Clemente is 30 miles further, a lon^, narrow strip of land, on which there is no water, where range thousands of sheep and goats, which seem to thrive better than on Santa Catalina Island, where water is abundant. Returning again to Los Angeles, we start over the Han Diego Division. Leaving Los Angeles, the course is the same as over the Wilmington route to Florence, six miles south, where our route turns to the left. Leaving Florence, we cross the Los Angeles lliver, along which are some broad, rich bottom lands, passing large groves of eucalyptus trees, and 5.5 further come to Downey — This is a thrifty town of agriculturalists, about 500 in number, with some good buildings. The Central Hotel is the principal hotel. The country is flat, and vineyards and orange orchards are to be seen at dilfereut places, over which the waters of San Gabriel Kiver are con- ducted in numerous canals and ditches Leaving the station, we soon cross San Gabriel River, note the existence of many S3'^camore trees, some oaks and many " Gum-trees," and four miles are at NoRWALK — This is a new station, in the center of a broad fertile valley, with only the smaller portion under cultivation Con- tinuing on, over a grassy phiin, where are a few tree^, and a few alkali beds, we pass Costa, 6.3 miles from Norwalk, and roll along through an improving country The La Puente Hills are on our left, beyond which rise the San Gabriel Mountains. From Costa it is 3.6 miles to Anaheim — Here we are at a live town of 1,500 population, which, from the car win- dows, presents a beautiful appearance, with its long rows of trees and beautiful fields. A run through the town will reveal the fact that it ccjntains many fine buildings, some of which are devoted to merchandis- ing, besides good churches, fine schools, two good hotels — the Planters and the Anaheim, and one newspaper— the Gazette. The town is embowered in foliage; tall poplar trees, cypress,eucalyptus, orange, pepper, castor bean, palm and many other trees are among the number seen everywhere. Here we find extensive irrigating canals and a complete net-work of ditches, ct)n- ducting the water through the streets and over the grounds in all directions, A great number of the private residences are painted white, (not a very common thing in California,) and look very cheerful. Leaving Anaheim, we cross a sandy bot tom, and then Santa Anna River, over a long bridge, pass Orange, a small hamlet on the left — where is a grove of planted trees — and 4.9 miles from Anahiem, and two miles furthercoms to Sant.y Ana — This town is 33.3 miles southeast of Los Angeles, and about half a mile west of the depot, where is now the cud of the road, and where a town is being laid oft', called East Santa Ana. Santa Ana is situated about one and half miles south of Santa Anna River, and like Ana- heim, is embowered in trees and sur- rounded by vineyards, orchards and the best of laud, under a high state of cultiva- tion. There are some large stores in the town and good brick buildings, several fine churches, good schools, three hotels — chief of which is the Santa Ana Hotel— oue daily and two weekly newspapers; the Hews and the Times are weekly, and the Free Lance is a small, live daily. Newport Landing is eight miles west of Santa Ana, where most of the steamers call, on their way up and down the coast. A good wagon road leads from Santa Ana to the Landing, and also extends eastward to San Bernardino, 40 miles distant. The road was built by the counties of Los Angeles and San Bernardino. The new Black Star coal mines are sit- uated about twelve miles northeast, and are said to be extensive and the coal of good quality. To the east is the high range of the Sierra De Santa Anna Mountains, on the eastern slope of which are located the Temescal Tin mines. Some of the lands surrounding Santa Ana and to the south and west for many miles, called "safe lands," will raise a good crop without irrigating, but the greater portion requires the water — to supply which a company is now engaged building a canal to take the waters ot'tlie Santa Anna River away to the eastward. The canal will be 18 miles long, and will furnish ample water for 20,000 acres of land. Stages leave Santa Ana daily for San Juan Capistrano, southeast 24 miles; fare $2.50; San Louis Rey, 65 miles ; fare, |5.00 ; also to San Diego, 100 miles, and all inter- mediate points. San Diego — As this is reached from Santa Ana, the nearest point by rail and stage, it seems to be the proper place for a short description of the town. San Diego AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 225 was first set! led by the Jesuit missionaries, in 17(J9, and is the oldest town iu the State. It is a port ofcn'.ry, and the county seat of San Diego county. It is situated on San Diego Bay, Avhich, for its size, is the most sheltered, most secure and tinc^t harbor in the world. The bay is 12 miles long and two miles wide, with never less than 30 feet of water at low tide, and a good, sandy bot- tom. By act of Congress, it is the western terminus of the Texas it Pacific railroad, but when that road will be built, if ever, is a problem, the solution of which, all the citizens of San Diego, about 5,000 in num- ber, are exceedingly anxious to have demonstrated, and there is little question but what they would all elect to have it built without delay. The city is connected by steamer with San Francisco, 456 miles north, and by stage to all inland towns. It is 14 miles north of the dividing line be- tween Upper and Lower California, and is destined to make a city of great importance. Tropical fruit of every variety is produced in the county, and the climate is one of the finest in the world, the thermometer never falling below 40 deg. in the winter, or rising above 80 deg. in the summer. The country is well timbered and %vell watered, protlucing large crops of all kinds ot grain, fruit and vegetables. Gold, silver and tin ores have recently been discovered, which promise at this time to be very extensive and profitable. Several quartz mills bave been erected. Two weekly papers are pub- lished at San Diego — the World and Union. San Juan Capistkan; >, is a quiet, sleeiiy, conservative old town, twenty-four miles from Santa Ana, situated in the center of a beautiful little valley, hemmed in on three sides, in a variegated frame-work of emerald hills, with the broad Pacific Ocean on the west, gleaming like a mirror at mid-day, and glowing like a floor of burnished gold at sunset: Here is located the old mission, which gave its name to the town. It was founded in 1776, and is situated on an eminence, commanding a view of the surrounding country, with ex- tensive orchards of orange, lemon, olive and other trees, planted nearly 100 years ago, which continue to bear abundantly. To the south of the town is th'> Rancho Boca de la Playa, of 7,000 acres ; Kancho Neguil, of 13,000 acres, and the Rancho Mission Viejo, on the east, of 46,000 acres. These ranchos include a great deal of good agricul- tural land, but now the greater portion is used for pasturage. 15 Gospel Swamp — This singularly pro. duotive region is situated a few miles north of west from Santa Ana, the soil of which is very similar to that about the " Mussel Slough" and Lake Tulare, heretofore noted. The soil is wholly composed of the richest sedimentary deposit, the decomposition of vegetable matter that has been going on since the creation of the world. In this section, all kinds of vegetables attain im- mense proportions, so large that we dare not give the figures. This is the pumpkin's /wme. Pumpkins weighing 320 to 340 lbs. are not uncommon in this region. A single vine produced in 1877, 1,400 lbs. of pumpkins without any further care than putting the seed in the ground — and it was" a poor year for pumpkins at that. Corn is the princi- pal crop, in gathering which they find much difficulty, owing to the height of the stalks. If some enterprising Yankee would invent a portable elevator with a graduated seat and revolving buckets for liolding the ears of corn, he could find in this section an extensive field iu wliicli to operate. Returning once more to Los Angeles, and for the lost lime, we take our old seat, and start for Sunrise, at Yuma. See Time Table. Leaving Los Angeles, our course is south about one mile— on the track we have been over several times — then to the left, and finally due east, crossing the Los Angeles River, just beyond which is the 80-acre vineyard of Mr. Sabichi, and follow up a little valley. On the right are low, rolling grass-covered hills, around which are many little cottages nestling cosily beneath a wreath of Ibliage, consist- ing of orange and other fruit trees. We are now on an ascending grade, and shall continue to be, for the next 80 miles. To the left, about four miles, is located Pasadena — (Key of the Valley; — quite commonly known as the " Indiana Colony," a new and beautiful settlement northeast from Los Angeles about seven miles, and three miles from the old mission of San Gabriel. Five years ago this position was occupied only by the one adobe house of a Spaniard, Garfias, who once owned the ranchc. A company of eastern men, largely from I ndiana, purchased the tract, with an abundant water privilege arising in the Arroyo Seco Canyon, and nearly every one of the sub-divided tracts of 7;^, 15 or 30 acres each was taken within a year by actual settlers, and these, almost without 226 CROFUTX'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST exception,easternfamilies of the high- est class and of comfortable means. Young orange orchards, just com- mencing to bear, now form the princi- pal feature of the town; its abundant mountain water is distributed to hy- drants, bath-rooms and fountains in and about each house ; the dry-bed of the Arroyo, on its western edge, fur- nishes abundant wood; the Sierra Madra or San Fernando range bounds and guards its northern side, and its site overlooks the whole San Gabriel Valley. The Lake Vineyard Ass'n has more recently opened \\p a fine tract, bor- dering Pasadena on the east, and the two settlements, now blending into one, have some seventy houses, many of them very handsome, aPresbyteri- an and aMethodist church, two school houses, stores, shops and a daily mail. Not alone those who have their pretty homes and orange groves there think it the most desirable of all California's delightful spots, but unprejudiced travelers, who have seen the whole, ac- knowledge that here, indeed, as its Spanish name asserts, is the"^'e(/ of the -Urt/Ze;/" and that valley the far-famed and Eden like San Gabriel. In visiting the orange groves and old Mission Church of this locality it will more than j)ay to turn aside the two or three miles necessary in order to see Pasadena and Lake Vineyard. To the right, before reaching the next station, several huge palm trees can be seen, like those shown on the foreground of our illustration, on page 10. They are the./rt?ipalm,greatnumb- ers of which are to be seen on our route hereafter. Passing up through the little valley, 9.2 miles from LosAngeles, we come to San ^jrabriel— The station is on a broad plateau gently sloping from the mou ntains on the left. Far to the right, away down on the San Gabriel Kiver, embowered in all kinds of fruit trees, and surrounded by vineyards, is the old, Old San Gabriel Mission, founded Sept. 8, 1771. All the old missions in California — twenty-one in number — were founded by members of the Ord- er of SanFrancisco,who were sent out by the college of San Fernando, in the City of Mexico, who were of the order of Franciscan Friai's. The orange or- chard at the Mission was the first planted, as the Mission was the first founded in California by the old Pad- res. Some of the trees are very large, and continue to bear the best of fruit. The "Wolf kill" orchard in LosAngeles is the next in age, and the second in size. Tothenorth of this station, two miles distant, is situated the Largest Orange Orchard in Cali- fornia — It is owned by L.J. Rose, Esq., and contains 500 acres. In this orchard are orange trees Qf all sizes, loaded with fruit the year round. Besides oranges, great numbers of lemon, lime, almond, English walnut, and many other varieties of fruits and nuts are raised here to the greatest perfection. Pomegranates, 5,000 ifi^ IVo. S3 AxNEx. California— was first dis- covered in 1542, by a Portuguese, Juan B. Cab- rillo, -whiie iu the Spanish service. It was held by the Spanish then by the Mexican Govern- ment, Until 1848, when by treaty it became a portion of the United States. It was admitted as a State in 185(). It covers an area of lOO.OOO square miles, divided about equally into mirjlng, agricultural, timber, and grazing lands. All kinds of grain, fruit, and vegetables grow in pro- fusion. The grape culture has occupied the atteij- tionof many of her people, who find that they can produce wine surjjassed by none in this country, and few in the old. Large quantities are used throughoirt the United States, with a yearly in- ca-eased shipment to European marliets. Her manufactures are of a high order, and attract favorable notice at home and abroad. The spirit of enterprise manifested by her citi^jens has de- served and won success. Under the liberal, far- seeing policy of the younger class of caijitalists aud luei'chants, who appeared about the time of tiho inauguration of the great railroad, a new order of thhigs arose. Men began to regard this laud as their future l^ome. From this time, money exjjanded, trade, agric- ulture, mining and manufactures began to as- sume their proper stations, and a brighter era oijened to the peoijle of the Pacific sloi)e. Tlie Coa.st Kii"ge — is the range of moim- tains nearest the Pacific Ocean, extending the whole length of the State, broken at intervals with numerous small rivers, anil narrow, fertile valleys. The principal peaks are — Mt. Ballery, (;,.So7 feet high ; Pierce, (>, 000 ; Hamilton. 4,450 ; Diablo, 3,876 ; Banch, 3,790 ; Chonal, 3,530 ; St. Helena, 3,700 ; Tamalpais, 2,004 feet. Mount St. Bernardino, away to the southward, in the range of that name, is 8,370 feet m height. The Kaiiiy Reason — on the Pacific coast is between the first of November and the first of Blay, the rain falling iirincipally in the night, while the days are mostly clear and pleasant. At Christmas, the whole country is covered with green grass ; in January with a carpet of flowers ; and in Ajiril and May with ripening fields of grain. During 15 years of observation the aver- age has been 220 clear, 85 cloudy, and 60 rainy days each year. The nights ij.re cool the year round, requiring a coverlid. AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 227 number, are growing here, planted by Gen. Stoueman. The town of San Gabriel is located about one and a half miles nonh of the station, and is completely embowered in foliage, among which are all the varieties of orna- mental trees, fruit trees, vines, and flowers, grown on the Pacific Coast, the citizens seemingly having taken great pains, to procure some of every kind of tree and shrub, with which to beautify their other- wise beaatifiil town. We have referred to the old. Old Mis- sion, now we will refer to the Old Mission Church, which is located clo-e on our left, just belbre reaching this station. It is in a dilapidated ccmdition, but the bells are still hanging in plain view from tlie cars, which were wont to call the faithful to their devotions, long before the '" blarsted Yankees" invaded the country. The Sierra Madre Villa is a finely ap- pointed hotel, situated about three miles from the station, away up on the foot-hills 1,800 IVet above the level of the sea. It is in a most beautiful location, overooking the whole valley of Los Angeles, Santa Monica and Wilmington, with thousands of acres in orange and fruit orchanls, and in vineyards, in ihe foreground, and in the rear the towering mountains. From springs in these mountains the sparkling waters are conducted in pipes, and com- pelled to do duty in the fountains in front of Ihe Villa, in every room in the house, and for irrigating 3,000 or lUge, lemon, and other fruit trees adjoining the liotol This is a lovely place to sojourn — if not forever, certainly for a season. At this Villa is the best of accommodation for about 50 guests, at charges from $12 to $15 per week. Close to the station, on the left, the tour- ist will find a variety of cactus not hereto- fore seen on this route. There are over two hundred varieties — so we are told — of these cactus plants. The ones at this station grow about ten feet high, and are of the pad species, i. e , they grow, com- mencing at the ground, in a succession of great pads, from eight inches in Avidth to fit teen inches in length, and from one to three inches in thickness. These puds are covered with sharp thorns, and grow one upon the other, connected by a tough stem, round, and about two inches in diameter. These cacti bear a kind of fruit of a pleasant flavor, which is used principally by the Indians or Spanish-Mexican resi- dents. From San Gabriel, we continue up the plateau, with the valley of San Gabriel Kiver on the right, 2.5 miles to ^a.vaillta — wherx; are well-cultivated fieUls, groves and vineyards. Passing on 1.4 miles furtiier is Monte — This is a thriving town of several hundred families in the most pro- ductive jionion of S m Gabriel Valley. Here corn and hogs are the staples, and hog and hominy the diet. The settlers raise immense fields of corn, and feed great numbers of hogs for market — m fact, this is the most hogish si ction yet visited, but we suppose tlie Monte men would bristle up if they were told so. Passing on, more to the southward, we soon cross San Gabiiel River, which here has a bioad, sandy bed. Sheep are raised in great numbers in this and the section of country traversed for the next 50 miles. Puente — is the next station, 6.2 miles from Monte, where trains only stop on signal. It is situated on the east bank of San Jose Creek, beyond which and the west is the La Puente Hills. Most of the bottom land is fenced and cultivated, the settlers being mostly Spanish or Mexicans. Coursing around to the left, up San Jose Creek, along which will be found m ny Mexican houses and herds of sheep, ten miles brings our train to Spadra — elevatioii 706 feet. This is a small place of a score or more of dwell- ings, several stores, and one hotel, and is the home of an old Missouii gentleman, familiarly called Uncle Billy Kubottom, whose house is in a grove just opposite tlie station on the I'ight, a few hundred yards from the dejjot. He has lived here near 30 years, and keeps "open Ikhisc" for all his friends, in real old Southern style. He can oil en be seen at ihe depot mounted on his mustang, under a sombrero, something smaller than a circus tent, and ' as happy as a bevy of New England girls would be in a Los Angeles orange orchard. Passing on up the creek, which is gradually dwindlmg, beyond which are a succession of liuttes, or low, grass-covered hills, 3.5 miles brings us to Pomosia — This is a promising little town of about 600, with some good build- ings. Garcy avenue— the principal one — is planted on each side, with Monterey cypress and eucalyptus trees, and presents a beautiful appearance. Four artesian wells supply the town with water, and for irrigating purposes, these wells range 228 CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST from 2G to 65 teet in depth, and flow an immense amount of water, wliicli is as pure as crystal. A reservoir holding 8,000,000 gallons is kept full, as a reserve at all times. Here, too, we Hnd many orchards of orange, lemon, tig, and fruit trees. From Pomona it is 9.5 miles to the side-track and signal station of Cucamoiiga — elevation, 953 feet. Two ami a half miles north is the Cuca- monga Ranche, celebrated for its wines. To the South, ten miles, is Rincon Settle- ment, a ricli agricultural region, under a most completCv system of Irrigation, the water bemg supplied by the Santa Anna River, which carries a large volume of water at all seasons. A run of 15.2 miles through a section of country where are a few good ranches we come to Col ton — This place was named for the late vice-President of the Southern Pacitic, and is a regular eating station for trains from the East and West. Tlie town is not a very large one at present —about 200 persons will be the full number — yet it is quite a busy place, as it is the nearest station to San Bernardino, on the east, and Riverside, on the southwest. The Trans- continental is the principal hotel, and a very good one. Coltoii has a newspaper — the tiemi-Tropic, that makes its bow weekly. Marble — To the west of the station, half-mile distant, a round butte rises from the prairie to the height of 500 feet, about 115 acres in area, in which has been dis- covered an immense body of what has been pronounced a very fine quality of marble, besides lime and cement in great abun- dance. A stock company has been formed, a rail track is to be laid to the mine, and the marble will soon be in the market; the demand for which, it is said, is already very great. The Cojon Pass — (pronounced ko-hoon) through the San Bernardino Mountains, is due north from Colton, and we hear there are plans maturing to build a railroad through this "Pass "to Mojava, a distance of 70 miles. Should this ever be done, the distance from Colton to ISIojava and the north will be shorter by 90 miles than the present line via Los Angeles. The grade is said to be easy, and the work of build- ing, light. Stages leave on arrival of trains, for San lo) V\\ never te\\\ but ask Butler, freight agent at Coltou, to show you his white owl — it's a great curiosity. Bernardino, four miles east ; fare, 50 cents ; to Riverside, eight miles southwest, fare, 75 cents. The Riverside Colony — is located on 8,000 acres of the best agricultural land in the State, most of which is under irri- gating ditches, and is in a very thriving condition ; in fact, it is the most prosper- ous, wealthy, and successlul colony on the Pacific coast. Land th;;t in 1868 was worth but a few dollars per acre, ?i(*«i would sell readily for from $100 to $150 per acre — eerily^ this country is the iwor man^s paradise, — and there are millions of acres full as good, now unoccupied, awaiting his advent. ^an Bernardino— four miles east, and 61 miles east of Los Angeles, is the county seat of San Bernardino county, the largest in the Sta e. Itwas settled by a colony of Mormons in 18-17, and the town laid out in the same manner as Salt Lake City, with water running through all the principal -streets from a never-failing supply obtained from numerous springs and creeks, in, and coming down from the San Bernardino Mountains on the east, close to the base of which, the town is located. All the Mor- mons now living here are " Josephites," Brigham, some years since, having called home to Salt Lake all who were devoted to him. The town contains a population of about 6,000, most of whom are engaged in fruit raising and agricultural ]iursuits. Fruit trees of all kinds, with vineyards, gardens, and groves, are the rule, and, alto- gether, it is a very beautiful town. San Bernardino is on tlie old trail, through the Cajon Pass, to the mining regions of Nevada and Arizona, now of little use. The valley of San Bernardino contains 36,01)0 acres. Crops of all kinds grow in this valley. Much of the land produces two crops a year — barley for the first, and corn for the second; of the former, fifty bushels to the acre is the av- erage yield, and of the latter, from fifty to sixty bushels. Of alfalfa, from five to six crops a year are grown. Six miles north of San Bernandino are Waterman's Hot Springs. These springs are said to be almost assure cure for the rheumatism; they are 700 feet above the valley, and 1,800 above sea level. Near San Bernardino are the ^fountains, — East, the most prominent peak of which is 8,750 feet above sea level. Returning to Colton, another engine 13 attached to our train, and we proceed to AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 229 climb the San Gorgon io Pass; so we bid adieu to the orange groves, the beautiful fruit orchards, tlie luscious viueyards, and the glorious climate of California, as we sliall see no more of those attractious on this trip. " Fare-thee-wcll, aiul it forever, still, forever fare-thee-well." Leaving Colton, we cross Saata Anna River, and 3.4 miles trom (.'oltou come to Mound Citv, a signal station, with aa elevation of 1,055 feet. The road now runs up a narrow canyon with low hills on each side. Sheep are the only things of life now noticeable. Eleven miles lurtlier comes El Casco — another signal station, sit- uated in a ravine extending to the Pass. Up this ravine the averaga grade is 89 feet to the mil?; elevation, 1,874 feet. We are now in a section where large quantities of peaches are rais?d. Continuing up the mountain 8.5 miles brings us to the Summit of the Pass, 2,592 feet, at ^an Cworgoiiio — There are some good agricultural lands near, when irri- gated, and a scheme is on foot to bring the water from the mountains to tlie northeast, twelve miles distant, for that purpose. To the west, seven miles, is the great San Jacinto Nueva Rancho, containing 47,000 acres. This property is now being sub-divided into 10, and|20 acre farms, and sold on easy terms. We have visited the Rancho and are free to say tlie greater por- tion is a soil fully as rich and productive as any in the State, easily irrigated where necessary, from the San Jacinto River wliich runs through the property, or l)y wells; abundance of water being obtained within from five to twenty feet of the surface. From this station it is down grade for 6.2 miles to Banning-, a signal station, and 5.7 miles more brings us to Cabnzon — (pronounced Cabb-a-zone), which means " Big Head," named for a tribe of Indians who live in this country; elevation, 1,779 feet, We are now in tlie Coahulian Valley. To tiie right are the San Jacinto Mountains, coverecl with timber. From Cabazon it is 8 5 miles to White W.^TER, an unimportant signal station, 1,126 feet altitude, Avhere we enter the cac tus and desert country, and from which station it is 7.5 miles to Seven Palms— elevation 584 feet, rirs station was named for seven large palm trees, situated about one mile north of the station. They are from 40 to 60 feet in height, with very large, spreading tops. TJie water at this station is the first and best on the west side of the desert, and in the days when emigrants traveled this route with teams, it was one of the points looked forward to wiili much pleasure. From this station to Dos Palmas, a little over 50 miles, tlie palm trees are abundant. Indio -is 20.8 miles Irom Seven Palms, with a depression of just twenty feet beloio sen-level. The palm trees along here are many of them 70 feet in height. "Wiieu we commenced to descend below the sea level, tliree miles before reaching Indio, we left the sand-belt and entered a region more adapted for agricultural purposes, strange as it may seem. Tlie cactus grows luxu- riantly, and the mesquite shrub and palms cover the face of the land. From this point we descend lower and lower at every revolution of the wheels, down, down nude r the sea! Methinks we can see the huge ships sailing over our heads, and many of the leviathans of the deep, with an eye cast wistfully down upon us; then we think of Jonah, and wonder if we will come out as lie did ; then, along comes the freebooter, Mr. Shark, and appears to be taking our measure with a knowing wink of his left fin — he rises to the surface as though to get a fresh breath and a better start for a grand dive, looking as hungry as a New^York landlord, as enterprising as a Chicago drummer, and as "cheeky" as some of the literary thieves who pirate inlormatioa from our book, without giving credit. In some points of tlie depression, where we first enter it, three miles north of Indio, fresh water can be obtained by sinking from twelve to sixteen feet. Here, vegeta- tion is ver}' luxuriant ; mesquite, iron-wood, arrow-wood, grease-wood, sage and otlier woods and shrubs abound. Further to the south, f]-oiu Walters to Flowing Wells, a distance of over 40 miles, the country is completely barren, 11 fact, is a "howling wilderness." Throu'frh tiiis section, the water ol)tained by digging is very salt. The beach surrounding this dejiressioa is 40 feet above high wafer; tlie lines are the same noticeable around any salt beach, the pebbles laying in rows, away around the different water-lines, r.s though left but yesterday by the receding waters. Marine and fresh water shells are numerous, indi- cating a fresh water lake here, subsequent to its being a part of the ocean. Walters— is Vd:d miles from Indio, 230 C'ROFUTT'S KEW OVERLAND TOUUIST where passenger trains meet and pass. At this point we are 135 leet below the level of the bea, and still (joiixj down. Ten miles further and we are 260 feet Z/c/cw ; gradually we ascend, and at the next station, 17.4 miles from Walters, are at Dos l*aliiias— only 253 feet below. From Dos Paluias, desolation reigns su- preme, and lO.y miles brings us to Fink's SpriiiJliiS Here we are seven feet lower than at Dos Palmas. being 260 feet below; alitlie further ii. will be 263 feet, when we commence to rise. Five miles south, are twenty-five square miles of mud springs. The first is about 100 yards east of the roatl, and is cold. Then to the right, from one to l4x miles, are many springs, b(jtli hot and cold. Some are 200 feet in diameter, boiling up as though in a huge caldron, jut>t on a level Avith the ground. Others are smaller, cone- shaped, rising in some cases 25 feet from the ground, a kind of miniature volcanoes. The mud in these springs is much the same consistency as ordinary mush, bubbling up as in a pot, over a slow fire. Tlie smell, coupled with an occasional rumbling sound, reminds one of a region of which our modern teachers deny tlie existence. The railroad track docs not cross this depression in the lowest place, as an area west from Dos Palmas is twelve and a half feet lower. This has been called a Vol- canic country. Tliere are no signs that would indicate it ever to have been dis- turbed by volcanic eruptions, except the presence of the mud spiings; on the con- trary, mo.st ot the rocks surrounding this basin for fifty miles are granite, which is unusual in a volcanic section of country. What few rocks there are here, that are not granite, sliow no appearance of volcanic matter. Spurs of San Bernardino Mountains have been on our left, up to this point, after wdiich they dwindle to small, isolated sand hills, here and there. Flowing; Well— is the next station, 17.7 miles from Fink's Springs. We have risen, so tliat we are now only 45 feet helotr sea level. At this station the Pailroad Co. sank an artesian well 160 feet deep, and g :)t an abundance of water, tluough a six-incli pipe, b'U it was too salt for use. Six miles further we pass Tortnga — a siu:nal station, 183 feet altitude, and 6 miles furtlur come to Mainniotli Tank— so named from a tiatnrd water tank in the granite rocks on the kit, live miles distaut,which holds 10,000 gallons, filled by rains, and nearly always has water in it. It is said there are several hundred va- rieties of cactus on this desert, and we are ready to admit the statement without hunt- ing further proof than what can be seen from the car window. They are hej-e, ( f all sizes, shape and form. Eleven miles further, we come to another signal station called Mesquite — so named because there is no mesquite near or in the immediate vi- cmity. Next comes — 18.8 miles — Cactns — elevation, 396 feet, named for a variety of cactus called "occtilla," which grows in great numbers, near. To the east, from this station, can be seen Chimney Peak— a conglomerate rock — a huge cone, 160 feet in diameter, which rises from the summit of some low hills, 700 feet in height, beyond which, 40 miles away, can be seen the Castle Dome Moun- tains. They are on the east side of the Colorado River, from the summit of which rises Castle Dome, a granite column, 500 feet above the mountain range, which pre- sents the appearance of a monster, square, flat-roofed building, but which in reality, is a long, narrow column, when viewed from a point to the southward of the Dome. Mesquite, sage, and grease-wood shrubs are now to be seen on all sides. Directly ahead is a tall, round butte, called Pilot Knob, on the east side of which are located some lead mines. This butte is just seven miles north of the Mexican boundary line. Passing on 13. G miles, we come to a signal station, called Filot Knob — From here, our course changes a little more to the eastward, and we soon come in view of the Colorado River, witli a wide, sandy botton covered with willows and mesquite. From Pilot Knob it is 0.4 miles to Yuma, about five of which brings to us the first view of the river, and the next four to the west end of the bridge. To the lelt, before crossing the bridge, is Fort Yuma, a Government post, occupied by about one dozen "boys in blue." It is on a high butte, overlooking tiie surrounding country. To the riffJit, on the opposite side of the river, on a high bluff, is located the Quartermaster's De- partment. Crossing the bridge, which hr.s a draw for river boats, and through a deep cut, we are in Arizona, and at Ynnia City — This is unlike any city we h:ive heretofore Aisited. It contains a ponu!;.tion <-f i.bout f,5C0, cne-iifth of AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 231 whom are Americans, the balance Spanish, Mexicans, and natives — Indians. The buildings are all cue story high, made of sod, adobe, or sun-dried brick, the walls being from two to four feet thick, with Hat roofs. The roofs are made by a layer of poles, covered with willows, sometimes a covering of cloth, or rawhide beneath them, and then covered with dirt to a thick- ness of from one to two feet. On all sides of these houses verandas project from ten to twenty feet, built of poles, like the roof, some with dirt, others with only the brush. These verandas are built for protection against the powerful rays of the sun. In summer the heat is intense; often the mercury marlis 126, and once, some years ago, we learn from a reliable authority, it was 130 degrees in the shade. As might be supposed, snow and frost are unknown in Yuma. In summer, the American, Spanish and Mexican residents wear as little clothing as possible, while the native Indians' covering, will not exceed the size of a small pocket handkerchief, adjusted in the mother Eve fashion, with sometimes a long trailing strip of red material dang- ling from the rear belt a la monkey. In the hot weather, which is intense for about eight months in the year, the people sleep on the roofs of the houses, covered by the drapery furnished by nature — darkness. Yuma,_ with all its varieties of citizens, is a very orderly city The great majority of the people are Komau Catholics, that denomination having the only church building in die city There are a few stores, with quite extensive stocks of goods. The hotels are not veiy extensive, such only in name ; the Palace and Colorado are the two principal ones. Yuma has one weekly newspaper — the Sentinel. Most of the Spanish and jNIexican houses are surrounded with high fences, made of poles, set in the ground close together, to a depth ot three or more feet, and secured together about four feet from the ground, with narrow strips of rawhide interwoven, when soft, around and betw-een the poles, so when the hide dries the fence is very strong. Many of these fences present a very ragged appearance, as the poles range in height* from four to twelve feet above he ground. The more enterprising of thet people saw these poles off' to a uniform height, when they present a much more artistic and finished appearance. The Railroad Company have large ware- houses here built of lumber, for the accom- modation of both the railroad and steamer business. The boats on the Colorado Kiver are all owned by the Kailroad Company, and are run in connection with the trains'. Just above the railroad bridge, on the west bank of the Coloratlo River, is situ- ated Fort Yuma. It is located on the top of a bold, round butte about one-fourth of a mile in diameter, rising about 200 feet above the river bottom, and projecting- into the Colorado River to meet a promon- tory of about the same height on the easfi side. Between these bold points flows the Colorado River, about 300 yards in width. The Colorado River reaches this point from the northward, and the Gila (pro- nounced Hee-le) from the east, forming a junction close above the points named. It is proposed by those managing the inter- ests (so we hear) of the Texas & Pacific railroad, to build a bridge across the Col- orado River at these bluffs, some work of grading having been done in the fall of 1877, just previous to the locating of the present railroad bridge, a few hundred yards below. From the high butte above named, a view can be had of Yuma, the valleys of the Colorado and the Gila rivers, the mesas, and the sui rounding country for many miles. COLORADO RIVER STEAMERS. Passenger and freight steamers leave Yuma for Aubry, durtng the summer sea- son, weekly, commencing the ffrst Saturday in May and continuing until the last of Oc- tober, from that time tintiljanuary follow- ing, they will leave every alternate Satur- day. Steamers for Camp Mohava leave every fifth AVednesday, commencing about the middle of January. These steamers run to El Dorado Canyon, from May 1st to the last of October (stage of water permit- ting). Distance from Yuma, per river steamer, to Castle Dome, 3o miles, fare, $5.00; Eherenberg, 125 miles, f\u-e, $15.00; Au- bry, 220 miles, fare, $28.00; Camp Mo- hava, . 300 miles, fare, $35.00 ; Hardyville, 312 miles, fare, $35.00; El Dorado Canyon, 365 miles, fare, $45.00 The Colorado river is the largest in Ari- zona. Its principal tributaries are the Grand River, which rises in the Middle Park of Colorado, and the Green River, which rises in the eastern portion of Idaho. From the junction of the Grand and Green rivers, the stream is called the C 1- 232 crofutt's new overland tourist orado, and with its windings has a length of 3,000 miles to where it enters tlie Gulf of California. It is navigable at all times about 500 miles, and in a season of high water about 150 miles further to Callville. The time is notjar distant when a trip to theGrand Canon of the Colorado will be one of the most attractive and iiopular in America — if not in the world. Along this canon for nearly 300 miles the channel of the river has been cut through the moun- tain walls that rise up on each side from 1,000 to 3,500 feet, forming the longest, highest and grandest cafion the eye of man everbelield. Stages leave Yinna daily, carrying passengers, mail and express for Ca- stle Dome, 30 miles; Horse Tanks, 58 miles; Tyson's Wells, US miles; with branch line to Eherenberg, 2H miles further ; to Wickenburg, 128 miles, and Prescott, 103 miles; average fare, 16 cents i^er mile. Leaving Yuma, our course is due east, with the Gila River on the left, or north side. The river bottom is from two to live miles in width and covered with white sage, greasewood, mes- quite shrubs, willows, small cotton- woods and someironwood. The soil is a mixture of loam, sand and clay, with alkali beds in places. Very little of the land is cultivated, yet there are a few Mexican or Spanish settlers, who "tickle the ground" a little within the first ten miles after leaving Yuma. Their irrigating ditches are crossed in a number of places, and we are told the vegetables and early wheat raised are very good. On the north side of the river, five miles away, a Spanish settler has a large ranclie, which is quite productive. A 1)0 at ten miles east of Y''uma, the bluffs on each side close in on the riv- er,and our road is built through a suc- cession of rocky points or spurs which extend to the river bank. To the right or south side our view is wholly ob- structed ; but to the northward, be- yond the river, the country is very much broken with canons and ravines coming down from the high rocky bluffs which overtop each other in the distance, some of whicli must reach an altitude of 1,500 ft. above the valley. A few iniles through rock cuttings and our train will reach the river bank and afford us a view of Los Flo- res, a small mining camp on the north side of the river, the "drifts" showing plainly. A two-stamp mill is the ex- tent of the machinery used. Cwila City— is 15.7 miles east of Y'uma, inhabited principally by Papa- go Indians, with a small sprinkling of whites, most of whom are engaged in "dry washing" for gold in the canons and ravines south of the station. The gold is fine and not very abundant. Leaving the station, within a few miles we will see the first of a kind of cactus peculiar to Arizona. It is cer- tainly the "Boss" cactus of the world. (See Annex No. 55 and page 235.) Leaving Gila City, the country is more open, the river bottom is sever- al miles broad, and covered with small cottonwoods, willows, and under- brush; much of this land would pro- duce crops with irrigation, but the riv- er could not be depended upon to sup- ply the water at the time it would be re(iuired. By looking away to the southward, the first glimpse is obtained of a pecu- liar sharp needle-pointed rocky butte, which in general formation is found in our travels only on the Gila Des- ert, where they are very numerous. These buttes are of volcanic for- mation, completely isolated, many of IVo. 3^ Annex. Cape H'»rn — isa bold promontory, situated on the north side of the Co- iiinibia River, in Washington Territory, about midway between tho Cascade Mountains and the Dalles, Tliis promontory is of basaltic formation — like most others on tlie Columl)ia — and rises near 2.'J() ft. perpendiuclar from tho water's edge, and extends about one mile in length, the lower part projecting several hunth-ed feet out into tho river. Cajio Horn derives its name from the dati- -ger in passing it. Our large illustration, No. 1 0, represents a small party of pleasure and curios- ity seekers on a pleasant afternoon, when the •winds had lulled, who have successfully rounded ihe capo. No. 3!> Annex. ^Vood llaiiliiis: in Nt»- vad 1 — No. 1 1, of the large views, is a beautiful engraving, representing a ten-u3ule team loaded with wood. The three wagons are coupled to- gether like a train ot cars — called "ti-ail wagons" on which Ure loaded twenty-four cords of wood. At til 3 point represented in the picture, tho team is about on the dividing line between Gold Hill, down tho canyon tn the rear of the wagons, one- fourth mile — and Virginia City, directly aliead. about tho same distance around the point of the mountaiu. This plan of coupling wagons is quite common on tho Pacific Coast for all kinds of heavy hauling. Tho ]iicture was eugi'aved by Mr. Bross, of New York, from a photograph. PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 233 INDIANS WATCHING THE ''FIRE WAGONS," — SEE ANNEX NO, 4{>, which rise abruptly from the plain to an altitude of 2,000feet. In color, they vary from dark brown to black, and in general appearance resembling iron slag. Some of these buttes take the form of narrow "hog- back" ranges, very sharp, and very steep, extending several miles. The view between the buttes or ridges are on a level with the plain and extend as far as the eye can reach; where they overlap each other the appearance is like one continuous range. From Gila City, it is 14 miles to Adonde— a side track station, with one building, several tents and a big- water tank. The railroad company have to haul all the water they use, on the first 150 miles of their road east of Yuma, in water-cars, from either Adonde or the the Colorado River at Yuma. The wa- ter from theColorado is preferred over that from Adonde, as the latter is strongly impregnated with alkali. Leaving Adonde we leave the Gila Eiver far to the left, and Mill soon re- alize that we are fairly out upon avast expanse of desert, inhabited solely by rattlesnakes, lizards and owls, with an occasional woodpecker. Sage knolls, ironwood, mesquite. grease- wood, clay, and sand— the latter very heavy— is now the rule, with an occa- sional bunch of white calette grass. The surrounding peaks are now prom- inent in all directions, on both sides of the river; many on the north side are castellated and of a peculiar som- bre appearance. Passing several buttes close on the left, — between our train and the river — the largest of which is known as An- telope Peak, and along over a sandy waste, we approach Mohawk Summit, 26 miles from Adonde. but there is no station, no signs of life. This summit is simply a low. pass in one of those long, rocky, narrow ridges which here runs north and south, across our path. Just before reaching the summit our road is bridged over a dry sandy de- pression, which apparently, was once the bed of a broad stream of water. Along the banks are many trees, among which we notice the Paloverde, 234 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST ■with its smooth, bright yellow bark, otherwise much resembling the ma- drone tree heretofore described. Iron- wood is also to be seen as well as the "boss" cactus, in great numbers. For description, see Annex, No. 55, and il- lustration opposite page. To the east of tlie summit, the evi- dences to prove that this country was once lighted by volcanic fires, are abundant. The whole surface of the country is covered or underlaid witli lava. It crops out in every ravine, and at every cutting. Wliere the lava is exposed to the air, it is soft, and readily broken in pieces in tlie hands. By the action of tlie wind and rain miich of the surface lava has become reduced to dust wliich covers the ground; disagreeable atall times, but when wafted by a Gila zephyr is ter- ribly annoying. Toxjts iHill— is 7.6 miles east of the summit— a side track, and section house now comprises tlie station. Con- tinuing eastward, tlie general appear- ance of tlie country is unchanged, ex- cept as to its volcanic evidences wliicli are more noticeable. J^taii'wix — is an unimportant side- track 22.7 miles east of Texas' Hill. The Gila Kiver is here about 10 miles to the northward, the bottom lands of which, as we ascend the river are ini- l^roving, and with irrigation, raise good crops oJ; wheat and vegetables. Sentinel— is another side track 4.6 miles from the last, but it is a lone Sentinel, opposite the place on the river where the Oatman family were murdered by the Tnnto Indians in 18."3l. A run of 13.9 miles brings us to i'ainteil Koek— so named for the noted land mark on the north side of the river. Called by the natives "Pe- dras Pintados." (See Annex, No. 48.) UUn Bend— is 13.9 miles from Painted Roclv— and derives its name from its location near the great bend of the Gila River, and from an old stage station of the same name, a few miles to the northward. The appear- ance of the country bordering the line of Railroad— since crossing the San BarnardinoMountHins— u]) to this .sta- tion, in an agricultural poitit of view —particularly, to an east-of-the Mis- souri River farmer— is not very en- couragiii>-r. Yet, ivltli Irrtgation, there are millions of acres of productive lands. At this "bend" of the GilaRiver, we strike the edge of one of the rich- est and finest bodies of land in Arizo- na—but it must be irrigated— and the Gila affords abundance of water for that purpojse. AVith a proper system of canals and wind-mills, oranges, lemons, vineyards, nuts, and all kinds of tropical and semi-tropical cereals, can be raised in abundance; — and, within our knowledge— we know of no section of the trans-Missouri country where a more promising opportunity for the investment of capital in a safe, legitimate, and growing business, than is here indicated. Wood is a scarce article in many parts of Arizo- na — but is plentiful about Gila Bend and along the river bottoms,— which, in a country devoid of coal, is an item of no small consequence. Continuing eastward, the sidetrack of EsTEKELL.\ is 18.8 milcs, and 18.2 miles more to Maricopa — where the first through train from San Praneisco arrived May 12th, 1879. This town of Maricopa, lo- cated as it is in the center of great mineral wealth, the distributingpoint for a vast region of country— north and south of it -is destined at an ear- ly day, to become one of prominence. It now contains several large mercan- tile houses, hotels, restaurants, etc. The Railroad Co. have a good depot, and a large freight building for the ac- commodation of tlie great amount of merchandise arriving here for distant points— mostly to the northward,— Phoenix, Vulture, Wickenburg, Pres- cott, etc. Ores and bullion are also received here as return freight, for shipment to San Francisco and the Between Gila City and Maricopa there are few buildings, except those used by the Railroad Comiiany. The "section houses" are all alilvc, built of lumber with double, or sun roofs. The upper roof is supported by u])right timbers and is elevated about two feet above the lower roof, over which it extends, on all sidns, about four feet. The space between the roofs al- lows the air to circulate freely, and to a great extent protects the occupants of the buildings against the powerful heat of the sun, which often, in the '£Ji^r^ ^36 CBCFUTTS NEW OVERLAND TUUKIST summer, marks 115 to 130 degrees on these plains. The old stage station of Maricopa Wells is situated about ten miles to the northward, on the Gila Eiver, and not far distant is the Gila Indian Ee- servation, where live the Pima and Maricopa Indians, numbering 4,328. This reservation contains 70,000 acres of as rich and productive lands as there is in the Territory, much of which is cultivated by the Indians, who are self sustaining. For interesting historical matters regarding Arizona, see Annex, No. G4. Distances : Maricopa to Yuma, 150 miles; Tucson, 91 miles; San Francis- co, 887 miles ; El Paso, 399 miles ; Phoe- nix, 35 miles, Vulture, 90 miles; Wick- enberg, 90 miles; Prescott, 152 miles. Stages leave daily with passengers, mails and express for Phoenix, Pres- cott and intermediate places— fare, about seventeen cents per mile. The general direction of our road from Maricopa changes from the east to the south-east for the next 140 miles, when it again turns to the eastward. From Maricopa it is 14.9 miles to a side track called Sweet Water, and 11.1 miles further to Caiiia Cwraiide— this like all rail- way stations, when they are at the "end of the track," was a very busy place.— Temporary wooden buildings, canvass tents, and shanties of all kinds, and for all purposes, were scat- tered in all directions ; immense quan- tities of railroad material of every de- scription covers many acres of land; ponderous "prairie schooners" were loading merchandise for distautpoints while others Avere unloading ores and bullion; stage coaches with passen- gers, mails and exjiress were leaving and arriving loaded to their utmost ; and people of every nationality , color, dress and occupation, were to be seen on every side intent on some kind of business. Such was Casa Grande January 1st, 1880. But when the road was extended it settled down as a shi]>ping point for the mining region to the northward — and only such buildings remain as are necessary for that business. This station is named for tlie old ruin of Casa Grande, situated about 14 miles to the northward. (See An- nex, No. 47.) The general features of the country along the road for the last fifty miles, in an agricultural ])Oint of view, is much improved; sage, grease wood, and mesquite trees, together Avith grasses of various kinds, cover the face of the land ; while herds of cattle, sheep and horses are not uncommon. Stages leave Casa Grande daily for Florence, 25; and Silver King, 57 miles ; fare, about seventeen cents per mile. Toltec— is the next station "down on the bills," 9.6 miles from Casa Grande, and 9.1 miles from Picaclio— a small station from which large quantities of coke, and merchandise is shipped on wagons for the mines, to the north- and east- Avard. We are noAV folloAving up the lower portion of the Santa Cruz Val- ley, along Avhich there is no running Avater; but, judging from the rank growth of sage, mesquite, and grease- wood, Avliich cOA-er the land, it would not be a very difficult task to sink wells and find Avater sufficient for ir- rigating purposes. After a few miles run from Picacho station, we arrive opposite "-Picacho Peak," a noted land -mark, and rocky butte on the right. It Avas here, at the base of this "peak" in May, 1862, AA^here the first and only battle Avas fought in Arizona between the Confederate and Union forces. In the summer of 1861, the Union troops Avere AvithdraAvn from this Territory, and on the 27th of Feb- ruary, following, Cap. Hunter of the Confederate forces arrived at Tucson, from Texas, and took possession; soon after the news reached San Francisco that the Confederates had control of Tucson, Genl. Carlton, of the Federals — iDalifornia column — started for Ihis Territory, and Avas met by the Confederates at this"peak" as above stated. The battle resulted in a victory for Genl. Carlton and the abandonment of the country by the Confederates. Red Itock- a side track— is 13.9 miles from Picacho, and 15.5 miles from KiLLiTo, another small station, on a little Creek of that name, 17.1 miles from Tucson — pronounced Tu-son. — Had we A'isited this place 322 years ago, we would have been classed with PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 237 the "Old Pioneers," instead of a "tenderfoot" of 1882. Records sliow tliat Tucson is tlie Second oldest town in the United States; Santa Fe, New Mexico, being the first. The first settlements were made by the Spaniards in 1560, and a presidio or fortification was con- structed to protect their settlement at San Xavier; and from the appear- ance of many of the old adobe build- ings, and the aged look of some of the citizens, we are not disposed to dispute tlie records, or doubt the fact that a feWj at least, of the earlier sett- lers are still living. Tucson is the county seat of Pima county, situated on a ine.na or table land, gradually sloping to the west- ward — overlooking the Santa Cruz Valley— in lat. 32 deg. 20 min. north and long. 110 deg. 55 min. west of Greenwich. Elevation 2,239 feet. It is 978 miles from San Francisco; 220 miles from Deming; 308 miles fi'om El Paso, Tex. ; 75 miles north of the Mexican boundary; and 370 miles from Guaymas, Mexico. Sorin, in his sketch of Tucson says : "The Santa Cruz River is one of those erratic streams, common inthisWest- ern Country, which run for a distance on the surface, then beneath the ground, again on top, and so on. In its strange course it so happens, that the river comes to the surface about two miles south of Tucson and runs past the mesa on which the town is built, and thus makes some three thousand or more acres of land capa- ble of irrigation and consequently of cultivation. In this rich bottom years ago the old mission church of Tucson was built by the Jesuits,, and to pro- tect the cultivators of the adjoining fields a presidio or military camp was established; and for self-protection incoming settlers congregated about the garrison and thus the town grew upon its present site." The City of Tucson was incorpora- ted February 7th, 1877, and the South- ern Pacific Railroad was completed to it, March 10th, 1880. Its present popu- lation is estimated between 8.000 and 9,000; composed of Spanish, Mexican, Indian, American, and English speak- ing people. The streets are regularly laid out, are narrow with the usual Mexican Plaza. In the older portion of the city the buildings are con- structed of adobe, one story, in the old Spanish-Mexican style (where one goes out of doors to get into each room) with an occasional one of wood,, sandwiched in here and there, and oc- cupied by the most enterprising busi- ness men, — or more recent anivals — those who come with the Railroad. The business portion of Tucson, is about half a mile Avest of the depot, between which, and the depot are some fine private residences of wood, one large hotel — Porter's — commodioua depot and freight buildings, and many other modern structures in course of erection. The Railroad Co. have a round-house and quite extensive ma- chine and repair shops located here. The city supports three daily new^s- j^apers, the Citizen, Star, and the Journal, besides several weeklies. Gas, Water, and Street Railroad Companies have been chartered and •he present prospects are, that the citizens of Tucson will soon be able to enjoy all those luxuries. There are (piite a number of hotels, principal of which are Porter's at the depot, and the Palace, at the old town. There are two banks ; three flouring mills ; two breweries ;two ice manufactories ; one foundry and machine shop; six churches and church organizations; four schools — public and private; eight wholesale dry goods houses; sixty-six dry goods and grocery stores and the usual number of shops of all kinds found in a city of the size. As a law-and- order-city, Tucson has few equals. The carrying of weapons and drunkenness is severely punished by fine and imprisonment. The United Stages Depository for the District of Arizona and the United States Custom House, and the Deputy Collector of Internal Revenue, as well as the Surveyor Gen'l Office of Arizo- na, is located here. There are about 3000 acres of land in the vicinity of Tucson susceijtible of irrigation; but it is all taken up and title can only be had by purchase from private individuals. The valley of Santa Cruz, in which most of the land I'ef erred to is located, is very rich, and with ix'rigation, capable of pro- ducing two crops annually— corn in 238 CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST the spring and wheat in the fall. Game is not abundant in the vicinity of Tucson, but ])ear, deer, antelope and wild turkeys can be found in the foot-hills and mountains. The road south from Tucson, along up the Santa Cruz Valley, has been for near 300 years the great highway between Mexico and Arizona, leading directly to the harbor of Guaymas. We understand a plan is now matur- ing by capitalists, to parallel this old road Avith iron rails and the time is not far distant, in the nature of things, when this route will be traversed by the "Iron Horse." Resorts,— in and around the city : — Silver Lake, is southwest of the city, half a mile distant; is caused by a dam in the Santa Cruz River, and ex- tends over several acres; a race-track is adjacent. Boats, bath-houses, swimming baths, groves, pavilions, hotels, etc., are provided for the ac- commodation of visitors. Levin's Park— situated on the west side and near the heart of the city, in a grove of cottonwoods, seven acres in extent, in which are located a the- atre, music pavilion, billiards, bowl- ing, bar, baths, brewery, restaurant, shooting gallery, etc., and is patron- ized, at times, by all classes. San Xavier del Bag- is an old mis- sion—nine miles south of the city, in Santa Cruz Valley, over 100 years old, erected by the Jesuits, for the purpose of saving the souls of the Papago In- dians. Travelers visiting Tucson usu- ally take a run down to this old mis- sion — where, strange as it may seem — the Mexicans are wont to congre- gate at certain seasons of the year, to witness bull-fights that tak« place in the vicinity. Aqua Calient a— Mineral warm springs — are situated It miles east of the city at the foot of the Mountains, and are said to possess medical quali- ties. The water is 88 degrees Fahren- heit, and contains soda, magnesia, iron and sulphur. Cottages and am- ple hotel accommodations are pro- vided for the public. Camp Lowell— Military headquar- ters for the Arizona— is shaven miles east from the city, and is much visited by the citizens of Tucson. The mountain system as viewed from Tucson is quite extensive. To the east, and north-east, is the jagged mountain range of SantaCatarina, ris- ingfrom the plain, about twelve miles from the city, to the height of near 2,000 feet. Turning to the south, the Santa Ritas, boldly appear in a succes- sion of peaks, the highest, Mt. Wright- son, over 10,000 feet above the plain, from twenty-five to fifty miles dist- ant; while more to westward, can be seen the Atacoso Mountains, at the base of which is located the old town of Tubae, and the old mission of Tu- macacori. Returning to the immedi- ate vicinity of the city, the Sierra Del Tucson — close the view to the Avest- Avard, rising from just across the val- ley, completing one of the most beau- tiful and interesting landscapes of mountain and plain; Avhich Avith the Avonderous hues of Arizona's gorgeous sunsets, completes a picture that none but the hand of the Great Maker can produce. Stages leaA^e Tucson as follows: Arivaca, 65 miles, and Oro Blanco, 77 miles — three times a Aveek — Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. Tubac, 60 miles, and Calabasas, 67 miles, twice a Aveek — Tues. and Sat. Sih^er Hill, 46 miles, and Silver Bell, 55 miles, twice a Aveek — Mon. and Thurs. Old Hat District, 45 miles, three times a Aveek, Mon., Wed. and Fri. Fort Low- ell, 9 miles, and San Xavier, 7 miles- daily. Magdalena, 130 miles, Hermo- sillo, 275 miles, and Guaymas, 370 miles, twice a Aveek — Tues. and Sat. Altar, 150 miles, and Guaymas via Al- tar, 420 miles, twice a Aveek — Mon. and Wed. Fare, from six to twenty cents per mile, \'arying Avith competition. The "life of trade" at Tucson, is de- rived from the mining industry. It is the great outfitting point for nearly CA^ery mining district in the territory, also, for many of the mines and camps in Sonora. There are 29 mining dis- tricts Avithin a radius of 100 miles from Tucson ; the greater number of Avhich l>urchase all their supplies in that city. Some of the mines are exceed- ingly rich in gold, silver, lead and copper, and the rai')id increase of precious metals is most Avonderfid. Wells, Fargo and Co.'s report of the yield tot 1880, Avas $4,472,471 ; for 1881, $8,198,766, an increase, in one year, of PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 239 -M liii: toA:xxA iiiiAt) — ^x.Ait ill. WKiUHi&i'A. $3,72G,295. Arizona is not only rich in precious metals, with a mild and healthful climate, but is sufficiently dry and warm to convince the most skeptical in the authenticity of cer- tain old bible versions which shall be nameless in this connection. Suffice it to say, below Ave sive the minimum and maximum of Eainfall and Tem- perature, as recorded at the following Government Forts and Camps in Ari- zona for a term of years : NAME. $ RAINFALL. TElIPEBAT. Fort Yuma, (Yuma City) 3.8i iuch. 35 to 112 deg. Fort Prescott, (Prescott) 27.09 " 10 to 91 " FortBowie 14.G0 " 21 to 103 " Camp Lowell, (Tucson). 10.83 " 19 to 113 " Camp Grant 22.54 " 16 to 109 " Camp Apache 13.21 " C to 104 " Camp McDo-well 14.09 " 18 to 114 " CampMojava 13.40 " 27 to 118 " CaixipVercfe 14.20 " 5 to 113 " Average, 14.07 inch. 17 to 100 deg. But the hardy miner and prospector does not seem to give the weather a passing thought. We meet him every- where, going right along with his pockets full of "prospects," selling his claims; buying his "grub;*' punching his "burro," and taking a "smile" re- gardless of the weather or anything else. For Arizona items of interest, see Annex No. 64. Leaving Tucson, our course is south-east, over a broad plain cov- ered with sage, mesquitc, and grease- wood, 14. G miles to Papago, a small sidetiYU'k station, from which we run up Killito Creek 13.5 miles to Pantaiio— a small station of half a dozen buildings, and one store, be- sides good depot and freight build- ings. This is the nearest shipping- point on the railroad for several im- portant mining districts, towns, find camps. Chief of Avhich ar<': Total Wreck, 4 miles; Harshaw. 50 miles; Patagonia, GO miles; and Wasliin-^^ton, 64 miles. Daily stages run toa.U these places ; fare, from 10 to 15 cents per mile. Since leaving Tucson, we have been climbing the world, and at Pantano are 1,297 feet higher, or 3,536 feet ele- vation. Mescal — is the next station, 9.3 miles' from Pantano, and 8.6 miles from Benson — At present this is a lively place. It is situated in San Pedro Valley; elevation, 3.578 feet; and is the shipping point for the celebrated Tombstone Mining District and many thrifty mining towns to the south- ward; several large stores and for- warding houses are located here; a hotel, several small shops, a large de- pot, and extensive freight ware houses together with an immense amount of 24) CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST railroad construction materials ; as this is the initial point from which the' Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Kailroad Co. are building a railroad southward, some people say, to Guay- mas, on the Gulf of California; but, we could procure no definite informa- tion. Certain it is_, the road is com- pleted to Contention, 18 miles, and still going forward ; yet, at the time of our visit, Jan. 14th, 1882, no pas- senger trains were running; stages were leaving Benson daily for Con- tention. 18 miles, and Tombstone, 30 miles; fare, S2.00 and $3.00 respect- ively. Freight for the Mexican state of Sonora is forwarded from Benson, in immense quantities, the passenger travel is also an important item. San Pedro Valley is one of the rich- est ^tock raising ]iortions of Arizona, grass being abundant, and water suf- ficient for that purpose. The lands are mostly owned by the Spanish- Mexican settlers, who are "like the dog in the manger," opposed to new comers,cultivating only small patches of ground and raising only what they need for their own subsistance. The Tombstone MiningDistrict, has attracted more attention than any other in the territory. The principal mines of this district, lie about eight miles east of the San Pedro River, in alow cluster of hills, called the Tomb- stone Mountains. Sorinsays: The region of country embraced "in the Tombstone District, has long been known to contain min- eral. The first discovery of silver in this locality was at the "Old Bronco Mine," six miles southwest of Tomb- stone town. The exact date of the first location is not known, but the old Bronco mine has been worked in years gone by, and produced some good ore. There is a dai'k history connected Avith this mine, and it is said no less than sixteen men have been killed or murdered there. The discovery of the new mines was made in February, 1878, and the extra ordi- nary richness was soon noised abroad, and prospectors from all parts of the country flocked in and many hundred claims were recorded. There ai'e four towns in the Tombstone District, Tombstone, Eichmond, Charleston, and Contention. Tombstone, the prin- cipal town, is near the Tough Nut group of mines, and is already a thriv- ing city of several thousand people, Richmond, about one and a half miles south of Tombstone, has a number of business houses. Charleston, on the San Pedro River, where the Tomb- stone and Corbin mills are located, is quite a thriving village of from 500 to 600 population. Contention City, is also on the San Pedro, nine miles be- low, at the Contention Mill, is an im- portant place, connected with Benson by railroad, and is growing rapidly. The principal ore i:)roducing mines in the district are: The Tough Nut group ; the Lucky Cuss mine and group ; Contention, Grand Central, Empire, Sunset, Emerald, and many others that prospect rich. Leaving Benson our direction changes to the northeast, and we commence to climb the Dragoon Mountains; ]iassing O- CHOA, a side-track in 9.7 miles, from which it is 9.4 miles more to Uragoon Hninniit — altitude, 4,- 614 feet. This point is a natural pass, apparently designed by nature for a railroad, between the Dragoon Moun- tains, on the south, and the Limestone Mountains on the north; the grade is easy and the work of grading was light. Reports, locate recent discov- eries of rich minerals in the moun- tains near this station. Cachise — is ten miles east of the summit, named for a noted Indian chief, who for twelve years was the head devil of the Apache Indians, and made his headquarters in the moun- tains near. He believed that he and his tribe had suffered great wrongs, and' most fearfully did he revenge them. He has been dead but a few years, and the remnant of his tribe are now eating at "Uncle Sam's" table on the San Carlos reservation. Descending into Sulphur Spring Valley, 10.8 miles from Cachise, we reach Willcox— a thriving town of about 250 population, situated in Sulphur Spring Valley, is the centre of trade for quite an extensive stock-raising and mining region. Altitude, 4,164 feet. The Dos Cabezas peaks, where some rich mines of gold and silver are being developed, are twelve miles southeast from this station. Camp PACIFIC COAST GUII E. 241 Bowie, 20 miles. The valley, in which Willcox is situ- ated, extends north and south about 50 miles each way, and lies between the mountain ranges of Sierra Bonita and Chiricahua, on the east, and the Galinro and Dragoon on the west. The lower portion is called Sulphur Spring Valley, and the upper, Ariv- aypa Valley. There is no stream of note in these valleys, but along the base of the ranges of mountains and in the foot-hills are many fine springs and some brooks. The grass in and around these valleys is very rich and abundant; and it is recognised by stock men as one of the best stock ranges in the Territory. At several points in the valley sulphur springs have been discovered, and at one place deposits of salt cover several square miles. At Willcox, and in fact throu-ghout the valley, an abundance of good water can h^ obtained by dig- ging wells from ten to fifteen feet in depth. Stages leave here, every other day, for Fort Grant, 24 miles; 'Camp Tho- mas, 64 miles ; San Carlos, 99 miles, and Globe, 132 miles. Fares, about 15 cents per mile. From Willcox to Eailroad Pass, 8.3 miles, we ascend 230 feet, reaching an elevation of 4,394 feet, the highest point reached by the Southern Pacific Bail- road on its whole line. From this "pass," we descend 635 feet in the next 15.4 miles and arrive at Boivie — situated in the San Simon Valley, and at this time, prospects to soon become a place of much import- ance. It is a regular dining station ; at the Campbell house, in front of which all through passenger trains stop, the accommodations for guests are first-class, and the meals served the best on the road. Water, for use at the station, is obtained from a well 300 feet in depth, but in many places in the valley it can be obtained from 25 to 75 feet. Thus, it will be readily understood that the San Simon Val- ley is not adapted to agriculture, and to only a limited extent for stock raising, wholly on account of the Ecarcity of water, as the soil is rich, P'^d the rainfall at certain seasons, ju..t sufficient to cover the whole face of the land with a coating of nutriti- 16 ous grasses. This valley opens in New Mexico and extends in a north- western direction for near 100 miles to a junction v/ith the Gila, affording a natural road-way from this station to the valleys and mining region in the northern part of the Territory. We understand a railroad is pro- jected down the San Simon Valley, with the coal fields of the San Carlos Indian Eeservation, as an objective point 100 miles distant, and that a stage line is soon to be put on this route which will reach Camp Grant in 28 miles ; Camp Thomas, 75 miles ; and Globe in 135 miles; already a largo amount of freight is forwarded from Bowie for the towns. Gov. camps, and mines of this region^ Fort Bowie, is 15 miles south, but we understand, it will be moved to near this station, at an early day. The Bowie Milling and Mining Co., who own 70 gold and silver claims, ranging from four to fifteen mile« south, are about erecting at this sta^ tion a 40 stamp mill to be run by electricity. From Bowie it is 15.7 miles to th<3 small station of San Simon — from which a stage runs daily to Gayleyville, 22 milef^. Fare, $4.00. The territorial line is crossed 10.9 miles east from San Simon Station and 3.8 miles further we are at Steins Pass— altitude, 4,351. It is reported, there are some good min- eral prospects near. From this sta- tion eastward to the Eib Grande River there are few objects of interestto the traveler. The face of the land is cov- ered with a rich growth of grass, but devoid of water, except an occasional little lake or sink strongly impreg- nated with alkali. Pyramid — a small station is reached in 15.1 miles, from which it is 4.4 miles to L would gladly avail themselves of the opportunity to possess a free farm or reach the gold fields of the West. The railroad and telegraph — twin sisters of civilization — were talked of, but old fogies shook their heads In the pleutitude of their wisdom, piously crossed themselves, and clasred with a firmer grasp their money bags, when Young America dared broach the subject, "No, sir, no; the thing is totally absurd; impracticable,sir; don't talk any more of such nonsense to me," they would reply, as they turned away to go to their church or to their stock gambling in Wall street — probably the latter occu- pation . But Young America did not give up to this theory or accept the dictum of Moneybags; and as the counties of the West grew and ex- panded under the mighty tide of immigration, they clamored for a safe aud speedy transit be- tween themand their "Fatherland." Government with its usual red-tape delays aud scientific way of how not to do it, heeded not the appeal, until the red hand of War— of Kebelion— pointed out to it the stern necessity of securing, by iron bauds, the fair dominions of the West from foreign or domes- tic foe. Notwithstanding that Benton, Clark, and others had long urged the necessity and practicability of the scheme, the wealth and power which would accrue to the country from its realization, the idea found favor with but few of our wise legislators until they awoke to the knowledge that even the loyal State of California was in danger of being abandoned by those in command, and turned over to the insurgents ; that a rebel force was forming in Texas with the Pacific coast as its objective point; that foreign and domestic mechiuations threatened the dismemberment of the Union into three divisions; not until all this stared them in the face could our national Solonssee the practica- bility of the scheme so earnestly aud ably advocated by Sargent of California aud his able coadjutors in thenoble work. To this threatened invasion of our Western possessions, what had Government to oft'er for successful defense? Nothing but a few half-finished and illy-manned forts around the bay, and the untaught militia of the Pacific coast. Un- der this pressure was the charter granted; and it may truly be said that;!/it; road was inaugurated by the grandest carnival of blood the world has ever known; for, without the pressure of the re- bellion, the road would probably be in embryo to- day. Although the American people had been keenly alive to the importance ol a speedy transit between the two extremes of the Continent ever since the discovery of gold on the Pacific slope, up to this time the old, vague rumors of barren deser's, dark, deep, and gloomy gorges, tremend- ous, rugged, snow-clad mountains, and the wild savage, made the idea seem preposterous. Even the reports of the emigrants could not convince them to the contrary ; nor yet the reports of the Mormons who marked and mapped a feasible route to Salt Lake City. And it is worthy of remark, that, for over 700 miles the road follows vi ry closely their survey. Practical, earnest men, disabused the minds of the people regarding the impracticability ol the scheme, after the road had became a national ne- cessii;y — a question of life and unity of the Eepub- lic. The great work has been accomplished, and to-day the locomotive whiils its long train, filled with emigrants or pleasure seekers, through that region which, only a few years ago, was but a dim. undefined, mythical land, composed of chaos, and the last faint efforts of nature to render that cha- otic State still more inhospitable and uninviting. IIovv great the change irom the ideal to the reai ! For three hundred miles afterleaving Omaha, that vague " Great American Desert " proves to be as beautiful and fertile a succession of valleys as can be found elsewhere, under like geographical posi- tions. Great is the change indeed; still greater the changes through which'our country has passed during the period Irom the commencement to the ending' of our proudest national civil record, save one. We live in a fast age; the gentle breeze of to-day was the tornado ot fifty years ago. In noting the history of the Continental railroad we must speak of the attempts in that direction which had been made by other parties . Missouri, through her able and liberal legislature, was the first State to move iu the construction of a na- tional or continental railroad. The Legislature of that State granted a charter, under which was in- corporated the Missouri and Pacific Railroad Co., who were to build a road, diverging at Franklin, southwest, via Rollo, Springfield, Neosho (the . Galena district), and along the line of the thirty- ' sixth parallel to Santa Fc, New Mexico. From Santa Fe, to San Francisco preliminary surveys were made, and had it not been for the rebellion, this road would undoubtedly have been completed long ere this; good authorities placing the limit at 1864. The cause which compelled the construc- tion of the Union and Central roads, destroyed Xha Southern. Passing, as it did, mostly through Southern, hostile territory. Government could not aid or protect it in its construction, and conse- quently the work was suspended. The States of Arkansas and Tennessee, by their legislatures, proposed to assist the work, by constructing a railroad from Little Piock, to connect with the M. & P., somewhere between the ninety-eighth and one hundred and second degree of longitude, and for that purpose a charter was granted. Org:anizatioii of the Paoilio Bail- road — The evident, and we might add, the im- l)erative necessity of connecting the East and West, and the intervening Territories, encouraged the corporators of the great trans-continental line to apply to the Government for aid. Many meas- ures were devised aud laid before the people, but the supposed impregnability of the Rocky Mountains, and other natural obstacles to be encountered, caused a hesitancy even then on the part of our energetic people to commence the great work. To attempt to lay the Iron rail through vast tracts of unknown country, inhabited by wandering, hostile tribes of savage nomads ; to scale the snow-clad peaks of the Rocky Mountains with the fiery lo- comotive, seemed an undertaking too vast for even the American people to accomplish. Butthe absolute importance, the urgent necessity of such a work, overcame all objectious to the scheme, and in 186'2 Congress passed an act, which was approved by President Lincoln on the first day of July of that year, by which the Govirnment sanctioned the undertaking, and promised the use of its credit to a'din its speedy completion. The act was entitled '-An act to aid in the construc- tion of a railroad and telegraph line from the Mis- souri River to the Pacific Ocean, and to secure to the Government the use of the same for postal, military, and other purposes." liaiid sue its thirty year six per cent, bonds in aid of the work, graduated as follows: for ihe plains portion of the road, $16,- 000 per mile; for the next most difficult portion, g32,000 per mile; for the mountainous portion, $48,000 per mile. The Union Pacific Railroad Co.built 525 78-100 miles, for which they received $1H,000 per mile ; 363 eOMOOO miles at $32,000 per mile ; 150 miles at $48,000 permile, makine a total of $si5,2.!t),512. The Central Paci-fic Railroad Co. built? 18-100 miles at $16,000 per mile ; 580 32.100 miles at $32,- 000 per mile; I5ii miles at $48,000 per mile, making a total of $25,885,120. The total subsidies for both roads amount to $52,121,632. Government also guaranteed the in- terest on the companies' first mortgage bonds to an equal amount. Cost of coiistriictioii. material, etc.— 1 1 the construction of the whole line, there were used about SOO.OOO tons of iron rails, 1,700.000 fish plates, 6,800,000 bolts, 6,126,:375 cross-ties, 23 505,500 Hpikes. Besides this, there was used an incalculable amount of sawed lumber boards for building, tim- ber for trestles, bridges, etc. Estimating the cost of the road with equipments complete by that of other first-class roads ($105,t, proftissiug to think that these railroad com- panies are great debtors to the Government, we would most respectlully submit Facts in Brief.— On the 18th day of March, 1862, before the charter for the Pacific railroad wa^ granted, while the country was in the midst of a civil war, at a time, too, when foreign war was most imminent— the Trent affair showed how im- minent — and the country was straining every nerve for national existence, and capital, ««««i/«''/y cautious, 3Ir. Campbell, of Penn., Chairman of the Housu Committ' e on the '' Pacific Kailroad ' (See Congressional Globe, page 1713, session 2d, 37th Congress), said : "The road is a necessity to theGovSrnment. It is Ihe Government that is asking individual cap- italists to build the road. Gentlemen are ULder the impression that it is a very great benefit to these stockholders to aid them to an extent of about half the capital required. I beg leave to call the attention of gentlemen to the fact that it is the Government which is under the necessity to con- struct the road. If the capitalists of the country are willing to come forward and advance half the amount necessary for this great enterprise, the Government is doing little in aiding the Company to the extent of the other half by way of a loan." Again, (page 1,911)—" It is not supposed that in the first instance the Company will reimburse the interest to the Governijient; it will reimburse it in transportation." JNIr. White said: "I under- take to say that not a cent of these advances will ever be repaid, nor do I think it dfsirable that they should be, as this road Is to be the highway of the nation." In the Senate (see Congressional Globe, page 2,257, 3d vol., 2d session, 37th Congress) Hon. Henry Wilson, from Mass., said: " I give no grudging vote in giving away either money or land. I would sink $100,000,000 to build the road, and do it most cheerfully, and think I had done a great thing for my country. What are $75,000,000 or $100,000,000 in opening a railroad across the central. regions of this Continent, tkat shall connect the people of the Atlantic and Pa- cific, and bind us together? Nothing. As to the lands, I don"t grudge them." Nine years later— after the road had been com- pleted nearly two years— SenatorStewart, from the Committee on the Pacific railroad, said in his re- port to the U. S. Senate: "The cost of the overland service for Ihe whole period— from the acquisition of our Pacific coast possessions down to the completion of the Pacific railroad— was over $8,000,0(10 per annum, and thia cost was constantly increasing. "The cost, since the completion of the road, is the annual interest "—[which includes all the branches— Ed.]— $3.897,129— to which must be added one-half the charges for services performed by the company, about $1,163,1:38 i er aninim, making a total expenditure of about $5,000,000, and showing a saving of at least $3,000,000 per annum. ' This calculation is upon the basis that none of the interest will ever be repaid to the United States, except what is paid by the services, and that the excess of interest advanced over freights is a total loss. " In this statement no account ia made ol the constant destruction of life and private property by Indians ; of the large amounts of money paid l)y the Secretary of the Treasury as indemnity for damages by Indians to property in the Gii\ern- ment gervic' on the i)lains, tinder theact ot March 3, 1819; of the increased mail facilities, of the pre- vention of Indian wars, of the increased value of public lands, of the development of the coal and iron mines of Wyoming, and the gold and silver mines of Nevada and Ut:th; of the value of the road in a commercial point of view in utilizing the interior of the continent, and in facilitating trade and commerce with the Pacific coast ana Asia; and, above all, iu cenientitg the Union and furnishing security in the i vent of foreign wars." Remember that the Government by charter ex- acted that these companies should complete their line by 1876 ; but, by almost superhumau exertion, it was completed May 10, 1869— and the Government has had thebenefit of the road seven years before the company were compelled by law to finish it. Now, if we take no account of the millions the Government saved during the buildingof the road - and at their own figures— the saving during the 2i8 A.i^2sr:B seven years previous to 1876 has netted the Gov- ernment $21,000,000, besides j)aying the interest on the ivhole amount of bonds. Again, if it cogt the Government, before the completion of the Pacific railroad, according to ]Mr. Stewart, '• over $8,000,000 per annum, and this cost was constantly increasing'''' how fast was this increase? Could it be less than six per cent, per annum? Should the flirnres be made on the basis of six per cent , the Government must have saved, previous to l87tj, in the seven years that the line was completed— before the com- panaes were compelleu to complete it -over thirty MILLIONS OF DOLLARS. Thls, too, after the Gov- ernment deducts every dollar of interest on iiO. « Annex. The Madrone Tree— See description, page 164. Xo. 10 Annex. Jack Slade — Virginia Dale was originally a stage station on the old Denver, Salt Lake and California road, and was laid out and kept by the notorious Jack Sladc, who wag division superintend- ent for the old C. O. C. Stage Co., from 1860 to 1863. It was supposed that Slade was the head of a gang of desperadoes who infested the coun- try, running oif stock from the emigrants, and ap- propriating the same. At any rate he was a noted desperado, hav:ng, i>, is said, "killed thirteen men. The last of his exploits, cast of the mountains, was the wanton and cruel muriler of Jules Burg, the person who gave his name to Jiilesburg. Slade had a quarrel with Jules in 1861, which ended in a sh otmg scrape, wherein Slade was beaten — or, as their class would say, '"forced to take water."' In 1863 some of the drivers on the line, friends and employes of .Slade's, decoyed Jules to the Cold Spring ranche, on the North Platte River, kept at the time by old Antoine Runnels, commonly known as "the Devils left bower." He was a great; friend of Slade"s, who appears to have rightfully earned the title of "right bower" to that same warm-natured indi vidual. The place where this tragedy occiured is 50 miles north of Cheyenne, and 25 miles below Fo"t Laramie, whither Slade repaired from Cot- tonwood Springs (opposite McPherson stati'n) in an extra coach as soon as he wag notifi ed of the capture of his old enemy. He drove night and day, arriving at Cold Spring ranche early in the morning. On alighting from the coach he fouLd Jules tied to a post in a coral, m such a position as to render him perfect'y heljjless. Slade shot him twenty-three times, taking care not to kill him, cursing all the time in a most fearful man- ner, returningto the ranche for a " drink" between shots. While firing the first twenty-two shots, he would tell Jules just where he was going to hit him, adding that he did not intend to kill him iram diately; that he intended to torture him to death. During this brutal scene, seven of Slade's friends stood by and witnessed the proceedings. Unable to provoke a cry of pain or a sign of fear from the unfortunate Jules, he thrust the pistol into his mouth, and at the Iwenty-th rd shot blew his head to pieces. Slade then cut the ears from his victim, and put them in his pocket. In the saloons of Denver City, and other places, he would take Jules' ears out of his pocket, throw them down on the bar, and openly boasting of the act, would demand the drinks on his bloody pledges, which were never refused him. Shortly after this exploit, it became too hot for him in Colorado,, and he was forced to flee. From thence he went to Virginia City, Montana, where he continued to prey upon society. The people in that country had no love or use for his kind of people, and after his conduct had become insup- portable, the Vigilantes hung him. -A. INT ZiT :E 2C. 219 nis •^'ifo arrived at the scene of execution just in time to behold his dead l)ody. She had ridder on horsc-l)ack, 15 miles, for the avowed purpose of frhoootiiig blade, to save the disgrace of hav- ing him hung, and she arrived at the scene with revolver in hand, only a few minutes too late tc execute her scheme — Jack Slade, the desperado, was dead— and he died — "with his boots on." Xo. 1 :{ Annex. Wiioav l>ilTi^•^lltie^— The Central Pacifict ompany commenced the erection of snow-sheds at the same tiiue with their tracb- iaying over the Sierra Nevada Moui'tains, and the result has been their trains have never been delayed as often er as long as on many roads in tile Eastern States. The depths of snow-fall and the necessities for suow-sheds over the Sierras were known, and could be guarded against, but further to the eastward, over the Rocky Moun- tains, on the route of the Union Pacific, no such necessity for protection against snow was thought to exist ; hence the blockade of February and March, 1!-'G9. The Union Pacific Company immediately took, as was thought by everybody at the time — am- jile precautions to protect their cuts from the drifting snow, bj- the erection of snow-fences and snow-sheds at every f xposed point, but the win- ter of 1S7 1 -2 proved to be one of unusual — un- heard-of severitj'. The snow caused annoying delays to passenger and freight traCic, as well as costing the company a largo amount of money to kaep the road ojjeu. Butthe lesson taught was a good one in enabling the company to talve such measures as were necessary to protect their road against all iiossible contingencies in the future, which they hure clone, by rais-'ngtheir tracks and building additional snow-sheds and fences. On the "Central" there are nearly 50 miles of enow-sheds ; one continuous of 28 miles in length. On the "Union" there are about 20 miles, and innumerable snow-fences. ]Vo. 15 Ak.nex. State Cjjpit<»l of Cali- fornia — See page 173. Xo. 16 Annex. l'astell«"tecl Rooks at Oreen Kivei- — As the subject of the large illustration. No. 2, is described on page 72; it will be unnecessary to repeat it here. Xo 17 Annex. Memories of Fort Britlger— which were handed to us by one o*" our iriends, who was with the tirst party of sol diers who arrived at the place where the fort now stands: '• Early in the winter of 1857, on the Zid of No- vember, the winds were blowing cold and bleak over tbe snow-covered ridges gurrounding Bridt'ei —a town with a significant name, but nothing' but a name except an old stone building with the ; n numbering at least 160 wagons, wa-" lohind.de layeel by heavy snows, entirely separated from the comujand, and forced to encauip about one mile f om eafh other on the Bi^aml Little S.indy Rivers." [Note— These streams are tnl)i.tarie8 of Green River on the east, rising i.earSouih Pass, about 160 miles north of Bridger.] "While encam|)ed there, a party of Mormons, under command of Orson Pratt, the generalit-sim j of the so-called Mormon Legion, assisted by ouj Fowler Wells, another formidible leader of the Mormon church militant, dashed iu and sur- rounded the trains in the dark hours of the night, completely surprising the entire p aty, not one escaping to give the alarm. After taking the arms and equipments from the men, ihoy gava them a very limited amount of provisions to last them through to Leavenworth, Kansas, allowing them at the rate of five head of cattle for twenty men, and then started them oflF in the wilderness to reach that place— about 1,000 miles distant/— with no weapons other than their pocket knives with which to protect themselves against the In- dians, or to procure game when their limited supply of provisions should become exhausted. After ac omplishing this soldierly, humane and Christian act, the Mormons set fire to the train, burning up everything which they could n t carry away, and retreated, driving the stock with them, while those left to starve turned their faces east- ward. There were 2:30 souls in that despoiled party, only eight of whom ever reached the border settlements; the knife of the savage, and starvation, finishing the cruel work begun by t"ie merciful Mormons. The survivors reached Leavenworth, in Jane, 1858, briuL'ing the ead intelligence of the fate of their comrades. "The loss of these trains necessarily cut short the supplies in Bridger. The troops were put on short rations, and, to add to their horror, the beef eattic accompanying the expedition had nearly all frozen to death, 'eaving but a few head in camp. "At Black Fork, the command lost over 300 head in one nigh*; the horses and mules dying, n about an equal ratio. Before reaching Brielger, the dragoons were compelled to leave their sndelles, which they buried in the snow, the horses being unable to carry them. The animals were com- liellel to subsist on sage-brush, for two-thirds of the time, and then, to obtain this fibrous shrub, they were compellpcl to remove snow several feet deep. The men bad no other fuel ; no water only as they melted snow, for three weeks be- fore reaching Bridger. "When the news arrived at the camp that the trains were clestroyeil, the troops immediately liegaii to forage for anything that was palatable, well knowing that no supphes coultl reach them before late in the spring. The snow was then; on an average, frcm six to seven feet eleep, and the game hail mostly left the hills. The rations were immediately reeluced to one-half, but even this pittance failed on the 2Sth day of Februarj', when one-quarter ration per man was issued, be- ing the last of all their stores. Two 100-pound sacks of flour were secured by Maj. E. R. S. Can- by, who pave for them 8300 in gold. They were liiacedinhis tent, which stood \vhere the old flag- staff now stands, and he supposed his treasure secure. "But that night a pai-ty of men belonging to Company I, Kith Infantry, commandetf by Lieut. Marshall, made a coui) d'etat on the tent, inilling out the pins and throwing the tent over the as- tonishecl Major, but securing the flour, with which they escaped in the darkness, and suc- ceeeled iu hiding it about a mile from cami), in 250 .^ IST IsT IE X:. the sage-bi-ush. All was confusion. The long- roll was beaten ; the troops turned out and an- swered to their names, no one being absent. So the matter ended for the time. The next day, at guard mount, the Major commenced a pert^onal search among the tents for his flour. He found— what? In oDe tent, two men were cooking a piece of mule meat; in another, he found five nn n cut- ting up the frozen skin of an ox, preparatory to making soup of it, the only other ingredient to"the savory mess being a little tlour. Overcome by the sight of so mucn wretchedness, the Major sat down and cried at his inabilltv to assist them. lie asked the men if they could obtain nothing better to eat, and was answered in the negative. "The severity of the suffering endured by the men nearly demoralized them, still thev went out foraging, dragging their wasted forms through the snow with great difRcultv. Some would meet with success in their hunts at times: others would not. The mules and horses were either killed and eaten by the men, or died of cold and hunger, which left them without the means ot supplying their camp with wood, only sm they hauled it themi-ehes. But the men did nut murmur. Twenty oi thirty would take a wagon and haul it five or six miies to the timber, and alter loading it with wood, haul it to camp. Ea( h regiment hauled its own wood, thus securing a daily suppiy. Some days a stray creat ire would be slaic by the hunters, and there would be rejoicing in the camp once more. " Early in the spring of 1858 most of the men de- Sarted for Salt Lake City, leaving companies B, land K, of the 10 Inf;iutry, and company F, 7th Infant ry. Twenty-seven men from eaeh company were detailed to go to the pineries, 25 miles away, to cut timber with which to erect quarters. On arriving iu the pinery, they found an old saw mill and race, which had been used by the Blormons, and everything convenient but the necessarv ma- chinery. Luckily the quarter-master's department had the required machinery, and soon they had a saw mill in good running order. By the 15th of of September, 1858, the quarters wei-e up and ready for use. They were large enough for five comijanies, including a chapel, hospital, sutler's store, guardhouse, etc. "The Fourth of July, ISoS, was duly observed and honored. The flag-staff wrs raised in the center of the parade ground, the flag hoisted by Major Cauby, and prayers said by Jiajor Gatlin. •'On the 2odof September, 1858, a large train of supplies arrived, causing great joy among the troops. Two days later three long trains of suji- plies filed thi-ough the place on the way to Salt Lake City. Xo. IS Annex. Ilansfins Uock, Utah- See description on page 97 of this book. Ifo. 19 Annex. J^tt-aiulioat K«ek— The large illustration, No. 6, is one of many beautiful vtev.'s to be seen while passing through Echo and Weber canyons, Utah. From our point of view the appearance of Steamboat Eock is exceeding- ly perfect. The lines (seams iu the rocks) run gracefully up for 300 or 400 feet, and in the! been of the moon the sage-brush, dwarf cedars, and other shrubs, growing along the uiiper cre- vices ca^.i easily be conjectured into a load of, passengers worthy of the mighty vessel, but she stands in stone, an:teppod to the front and took the helm. The good of the Church was al- ways his first aTid foremost consideration; he laid plaup for its prosperitv, and in their eaccess- ful execution, he made vast sums of money for him'-elf. Like all new orginizations, especially those of an ecclesiastical character, there were many schisms and rivals to be put down, and in doing away with these, he was frequently forced i to take measures that drew down iipon his head the odium of the outside world. With the same opportunities for becoming a tyrant )ind despot, with a large, ignorant element among his subjects, few men with the same tenacity of will, and force of character, would have be^n less of an oppres- sor than the late Prophet priest and Kevelator of the Mormon Church. President Young has taken a prominent part in al' public improvements, in every plan calculated to facilitate communication between the Territory a,Qd the Eastern States; materially assisting in forming several express companies and stage line-*. He built several hundred miles of the Western Union Telegraph, graded 150 mi'es of the Union Pacific railroad, and has ever offt-red his as- sistance to every enterprise of the kind which had it material bearing on ihe interests of Utah. He died rcgretcd and respected by his fo lowers, and admired by the world at large, Wednesday, Aug. 29. 1877, l"n the seventy-sixthVear ot his age. His funeral took place on'Suuday, September 2, 1877, amid a trreat pupular demonstration, the body being viewedbv over -.20,000 people. The following characteristic document, prepared hy the diseased about four years previous to his death, contains his instructions lor the conduct of the funeral obsequies. The p^iper was read by George Q, Cannon before the assembhd multitude on the day ot the funeral, and the iurtructions therein ron ained were carried out to the letter. "I, Brighani Youns. wish my funeral services to be conducted afcer the following manner: When I breathe my last I wish my Iriends to put my body in as clean and wholesome state as can conveniently be done, and preserve the same for one, two, three or four days, or as long as my body can be preserved in a good condition. I want my coffin made of plump I'i inch redwood boards, not scrimped in length, but two inches longer than I would measure, and from two to three inches Avider than is commonly made.for a person of my bi eadth and size, and deep enough to place me on a litiie comfortable cotton bed with a good suitable pillow for size and quality; my body dressed in my Temple clothing and laid nicely into my cof- fin, and the coffin to have the appearance that if I wanted to turn a little to the right or to the left I f liould have plenty of room to do so ; the lid can be made crowning. At my interment I wish all of my family present that can be conveniently, and the male members v.'ear no crape on their hats or th -ir coats ; the fe- ma'es to buy no black bonnets, nor black dresses, nor black veils; but if they have them, they are at liberty to wear them. The services may be per- mitted, as singing and a praj-er offered, and if any of my fi lends wish to say a few words, and really desire, do so; and when they have closed their service, t-ike my remains on a bier and repair to the little burying ground which I have reserved on my lot cast of the White House on the hill, and in the sotitheast corner ot this lot have a vault built of mason work, large enough to receive my coffin, {ind that maybe placed in a box. if they choose, made of the same material as the roffiu redwood. Then place flat rocks over the vault, sufficiently Jarge to cover it, that the earth may be placed over it— nice, fine, dry earth — to cover it until the walls of the little cemetery are reared, which will leave me in the southeast corner. This vault ought to be roofed over with some kind of a temporary roof. There let my earthly house or tabernacle rest in peace and have a good sleep until the morn- ing of the first resurrection; no crying, nor mourn- ing with any one that I have done my wor;; lUi h- fully and in good faith. I wish this to be read at the funeral, providing that if I should die an\ where in the mountains, I desire the above directions respecting my place '>f burial to be observed; but if] should live to go back with the Church, to Jackson County, I wish to be buried there. BRIGHAM YOUNG, Pres-ident of the Church of Jesus Christ ol Latter- day Saints. SuNiDAY, November 9th, 1873. Salt Lake City, Utah Ter. Briaham Young will ever stand prominently for- ward on the paces of the world's history, as one of the most remarkable men of the nineteenth cen- tury, respected by his followers and admired by the world at large," whose vices and virtues will go hand in hand adown the stream of time. STo. 86 AxNEX %ation:il Park— The ex- plorations of Br. Hayden. United States Geol- ogist, have demonstrated that this, our own conn- try, contains natural wonders, which, in extent, grandeur, and wondrous beauty, far surpass those of any other portion of the known world. The result has been, a bill has passed Congress set. ting apart a tract of country 5.5 by 65 miles in ex- tent as a gre-it National Park, or mammoth pleasure-ground, for the benefit and enjoyment ot the people. The entire area within the limits of the reservation is over 6,000 feet in altitude. Almost in the centre of this tract is located the Yellowstone Lake, a body of water 15 by 22 miles in extent, with an elevation of 7,427 feet. The ranges of mountains that hem the numerous val- leys on every side rise to the height of from 10,- 000 to 12,000 feet, and are covered with perpetual snow. This country presents the most wonderful vol- canic appearance of any portion of this conti- nent. The great number of hot springs and the geysers represent the lust stages— the vett or es- cajie pipes— of these remarkable volcanic mani- festations of the internal forces. All these springs are ad jrned with decorations more beautiful than human mind ever conceived, and which have re- quired thousands of years f./r the cunning hand of nature to form. The most remarkable of these geysers throws a column of boiling hot water 15 feet in diameter to a measured altitude of 150 feet. This display is continued for hours to- gether, and so immense is the quantity of water discharged, that during the eruption, the volume of water iu the river is doubled. Another throws a column of hot water 200 feet in height, and over a foot in diaiiK'ter. Iti-* said the gsys'ers of Iceland, wi.ichhave been the objects of interest for scien- tists and travelers of the entire world for ycirs, sink into insignificance in comparison with the Hot ^priugs of the Yellowstone and Fire-hole Basins. The most iconderful story about this remark- able regi in is told Ijy Langford, one of the first discoverers. He says: "At a certain point on the Yellowstone River, the water runs down a steep and perfect grade over a surface of slate-rock, which has become so smooth from the velocity of t^ie rushing torr nt, that, at a distance of twenty miles, the /Vk'^^'ow becomes so great that j^ 35r isr E ZKL. 25P> the water is boiling hot." We do not vouch lor the truth of this 8t,.."ry, and we are not certain that Langford will swear to it. The mountain rim of the Yellowstone Lake rises from 1,500 to 4,000 feet above its surface, and, except in two directions, is unbroken. To the west and southwest are breaks in the chain, through one of which appear the outlines of a conspicuous conical peak, 10,500 feet in height. In the mountain system which sunounds the lake are born the tributaries, almost the princii al sources, of three of the largest rivers on the con- tinent. Four of the mobt impormnt tributaries of the Missouri— namely, the Bg Horn, ttie Yel- lowstone, the Madison ai d the Gallatin, have their springs here. Flowing first north, then east, they strike the Missouri, which, in its turn, flows southeasterly to the Mississippi Valley, where its waters are blended with the stately stream that empties its tides at least 3,500 ra'les be:ow into the Gulf of Mexico. The Snake River, whose sources are actually interlaced with those of the Madison and the Yellowstone, turns west- ward, and traverses nearly a thousand miles of territory before it joins the Columbia on its way to the Pacific Ocean. Again, the Green River, rising but a few miles from the sources of the others, seeks ihe Colorado of the South, which, after irnumerable windings through deserts, and a roaring passage of hundreds of miles in the abysses of canjfoc 8 surpassing even those of the Yellowstone in grandeur, depth, and gloom, reaches the gulf of California. Penetrating to the lofty recesses where these springs rise, the ex- plorer stands, as it were, astride of the grandest water-shed in the world. A pebble dropped into one spring touches a water-nerve of the Pacific; a pebble cast into another touches a similar nerve of the Atlantic Ocean. It is a thought to cause the wings of the spirit of a man in such a place to expand like an eagle's. (See large illustrations, Nos. 35 and 36.) BTo. 27 Annex. Ocean Steamships.— The steamers of the Occidental and Oriental Line, between San Francisco and Yokohama, leave San Francisco about the 15th of each month. The passage rates are: u 6 a 2 CO oj a ^ a a s§ Payable in U. S. r^ ^ - Gold Coin. 0^ 3 to a w o R-Ji San Fkancisco tm Mile;. Yokohama, Japan, $250 001$ 85 Of $53 00 4,764 Hiogo, 270 00 100 00 5,104 Nagasaki, •' 290 00 100 00 62 00 5 444 Shanghae, China, 300 00 100 00 65 00 5.964 Hongkong, " 300 00 100 00 53 00 6,384 Calcutta, India, 450 00 9,385 Children v.nAev \i years of age, one-half rates; under five years, one-quarter rates: under one year, free. Family Servants, (European) eating and sleep- ing in European steerage, one-half cabin rates; eating in cabin and sleeping in European steer- age, three-quarters cabin rates; eatingand sleep- ing in cabin, full cabin rates. 250 lbs. baggage allowed each adult, first-class or cabin passeneer; 150 lbs. each, European steer- age; 100 lbs. each, Chinese steerage: proportion- ate to chlldrep. ^f" Koiincl Trip Tit kets, good for twelve^ mouths, will be sold at a reduction of 12;i prr cent, from regularra'es. An i.llowance of 20 per cent, on return pa-sage will be made to passeueers who paid full lare to Japan or China, ortvV*? versa, re-embarking within six months from date of landing, and an allowance of 10 per cent, to those who return within twelve months. Fa/nilies ■whose fare amounts to four full PASSAGES will be allowed T per cent, reduction. Exclusive use of stateroo7ns can be secured by the payment of half-rate for extra births. The Pacific Mail steamships leave San Fran- cisco about the Ist of every month, for Yokohama and Honkorg, and for Sidney and Aukland via Honolulu, at about the same time — Ist of eacli month— and for New York, via Panama, about, the 1st and 15th of each month. For Victoria, B. C. Port Townsend, Seattle and Tacoma, the 10th, 20th and 30th of each month. The Oregon Steamship Co. send steamers to Portland from San Francisco every five days. Oiher steamers for up and down the coast, leave at changeible intervals; about weekly, however. Xo. 38 Annex. Col. Hudniit's Survey. —On the west side of Promontory Point, the line known as Colonel Hudnufs survey of the Idaho and Oregon branch otthe U. P. R. R., passes north to Pilot Springs; thence down Clear Creek or Raft River to Snake River, and along the southern bank ofthis stream to Old's Ferry; thence across the country to Umatilla, on the Columbia River. For the entire distance between Promontory and Raft River, the country is uninviting, though not barren. From thence the route passes through a country abounding in fertile valleys and bold mountains— the latter well-wooded. There is I)lenty of wood and other materials for building the proposed road along the whole length of the line. To the mouth of Raft River from Promon- tory is about 100 miles. The scenery along the line is varied, from smiling, fertile viilleys to lofty, snow-clad mountains. We will speak only of the general characteristics of the route and of one or two points of remarkable interest. The main leature of the Snake or Shoshone River is its majestic cataracts. The stream, sometimes called. Lewis River, is the f^outh Fork of the Columbia, and was discovered by Lewis and Clark, who ven- tured westward ot the Rocky Mountains in 1804. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, near Fremont's Peak, in the Wind River Range, which divides Idaho andWyomingTerritories. The headwaters of the stream are Gros Ventre, John Craig's and Salt Creeks on the south, with the outlets of Lyon's and Barret's lakes on the north. The gen- eral course of the river from its source to Big Bend is northwest. At this point Henry's Fork, a large stream flowing from the the north, empties its waters into the main river. Thence ttie course is southwesterly until the first falls are reached — about 400 miles from the river's s'urce. These are called the American Falls and are very fine, but do not present so sublime an appearance as will be seen about 100 miles lurther down the river, where the waters leave the elevated plains of Idaho by a series of cascades, known as the Sho- shone Falls, from 30 to 60 leet high, closing the scene in one grand leap of 210 feet perpendicular. The wld h of the river at the point of taking the last leap is about 700 feet. The form of the f^l s is circular— somewhat like those of the Niagara. Be- fore the river reaches the cascades it runs between lofty walls, which close in around it until but a narrow gorge is left for the passage of the water 254 ^^ iNT i^T :b 2C- 1,0')0 feet below the tope of the WufFs. The moBt complete view of the falls is obtained from Look- out Point, a narrow spit of rocks which projects from the main blufl's a short distance down the stream from the falls. From this point Eagle Rock rises before us in the midst ol the rapids, and almost overhanging the falls, fully 200 feet high ; its pillar-like top surmounted by an eas^le's uest, where, year after year, the monarch of the air has reared its joung. Near ihe center of the river are aeveral islands covered with cedur, the largest one being called Ballard's Island. Two rocky points, one on either side of the falls, are called the Two Sentinels. Excepting in point of the volume of •water, the falls will compare favorably with Ni- agara. From this point the river runs nearly west until it reaches War 1; agle Mountains, about 80 i miles from its source, when it turns due north, follow- ing that course for 150 miles, then bending again to the west it unites with Clark's River, forming the Columbia. After leaviu" the last falls the country is less broken, and the work of building the road would be comparatively light for most of jhe way. Mo. 29 Annex. Western Stock Raising- DuRBiN, Obr& Co.— Cattle branded \B; also eome of them \B, and horses the same. Post-office, Cheyenne, W. T. Kange, Bear Creek. Ceeighton & Co.— Horses branded quarter cir- cle open block, on left shoulder. Also, partcat- tle branded half-circle on shoulder. Poptnffice Pine Bluffs, W. T. Range, Horse and Pumpkin creeks. Stock raising is an important industry. We have often expressed our bel ief that, ultimately, it would be found there was not one f lot of valueless land on the line of the Pacific railroad. The Bitter Creek country, previohs to 1868, for 80 miles was univer- eally admitted by all who knew anything about that section of country, to be utterly valueless. Coal, in immense quantities, was discovered all along the creek— great veins— and it is now the most valuable section of the Union Pacific railroad. Portions of Ihe Humboldt and Nevada Desert were also set down as valueless; now, see what irriga- tion has done for a portion of it, where the people have hail the enterprise to adopt a system of irri- eation, as at Humboldt Station. We contend that all the lands on the line of this road are valuable, some as mineral, some as agricultural, but the greater portion is the finest grazing land in the world. This lact, of late years, is becoming thor- oughly understood, as in 1868 there would not ex- ceed twenty thousand he>id of cattle on the whole line of the Pacific railroad, across the continent; now there are over 700.000 head of cattle, 30,000 headof horses, and full 450,000 head of sheep. The range is enormous, taking in broad plains, grass-covered mountains, and thousands cf as beautiful little foot-hills and mountain valle.\s as there are in the world. This section commences about 250 miles west of the Missouri River, and extends to the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, all of which, with only a few miles in- tervening, is the stock-raiser's paradise. The ab- sence of water is the only drawback in this inter- vening section, a"d in time wells will be sunk atd that obstacle overcome. The valley blufls, low hills and mnuntain sides of this whole section are cov( red with a luxuriant growth of gramma or "bunch" grass, one of the most nutritious grasses grown, together with white sage and grense-wood, upon wliich all kinds of stock thrive all the sea- sou, without care, excepting what is necessary to prevent them from straying beyond reach. Old work -oxen that had traveled 2,500 miles ahead of the freight wagon during the season, have been lurued out to winter by their owners, and by the following July they were "rolling fat "—fit for beef. V\ e know this to be a fact from actual ex- perience. This country is the great pasture land of the c 'Utinent. There is room for millions of cattle in this unsettled country, and then have grazing land enough to spare to feed half the stock in the Union. In the foot-hills and mountainous portion of this great grazing rangi-, and along the line of the great water courses, theie is no trouble from lack of water, for the mountain valleys are each sup- plied with creeks and rivers. Springs abound in various sections, so that no very large tract of land is devoid of natural watering places. The grass grows from nine to twelve inches high, smd is peculiarly nutritious. It is always green near the roots, summer and winter. During the summer the dry atmosphere cures the standing grass as effectually as though cut and prepared for hay. The nutritive qualities of the grass remain uninjured, and stock thrive equally well on the dry feed. In the winter what snow falls is very dry, uulike that which falls in more humid cli- mates. It may cover the grass to the depth of a few inches, but the cattle readily remove it, reach- ing the grass without trouble. Again, the snow does not stick to the sides of the cattle and melt there, chilling them through, but its dryness causes it to roll from their backs, leaving their hair dry. The cost of keeping stock in this country is just what it will cost to employ herders— no more. The contrast between raising stock here and in the East must be evident. Again, the stocking of this country with sheep, is adding an untold wealth to the country. The mountain streams afl'ord ample water power for manulactories, and wool enough could be grown here with which to clothe all the people of the I'nion, when manufactured into cloth. With the railroad to transport the cattle and sheep to the ^A. 3^ IsT IE X:. 255 Eastern and Western markets, immense fortunes are now bt'ing made, and the business is compara- tively new— iii its infancy. No drouths which have been experienced in this frreat range have ever seriously aflected the pasturage, owin s, to tne peculiar qualities of the grasses indigenous to the country. So with storms: it has seldom happened that any storms are experienced which cause loss, and none ever need to, and none ever do, when the stock is prop- erly attended to and herded. On these ranges it is common for stock of many owners to range toge:her, and a system of brands has been adopted, and recorded with the county clerk in the section of country where the herds belong. The recording of the brands is a protec- tion against theft and loss by straying, as each cattle man knows the brands in use in his range, and each endeavors to protect the other's interest. The illustrations that we present, show two of the brands in use, and the method adopted by all cattle men to make known their brand, and the particular range, or k07tie range of the cattle. [These are actual names, brands, range and ad- dresses.] The Annual " Round-Up."— One of the most important and interesting features of the stock-raising business is the cattle "round-up." In the " free and easy " manner of raising cattle on the broad, western plain, where the owner may not see one-half of his herd for six months at a time, it may be imagined that the restless Texaus scatter almost from Dan to Beersheba, and that extra cfi'ort is necessary when they are finally collected by the regular spring "round up." Companies of herders are organized to scour cer- tain sections of country, and bringevery animal to a grand focal point, no matter who that animal may belong to or what its condition may be. The old-fashioned "husking bee," " 'possum hunt " or "training day" is vastly outdone by this wild revelry of theherders. Mouiited upon their fleet- est ponies, the cow-boys scatter out in all direc- tions, gather in " everything that wears horns," and at night may have tne property of half-a-dozen owners jn one "immense, excited herd. Then, while a cordon of herders hold the animals to- gether, representatives of the different " brands " ride into the herd, single out their animals, one by one, and drive them off to be branded or mar- keted. Moving along, day after day, the scene is repeated, until the whole plains country has been visited, and every breeder has had an opportunity to take an inventory of his stock. Of course the participants "camp out " wagons, following the herd, with blankets and provisions, the " round- up" season, being one of mirth and frolic, as v/ell as of work, from beginning to end. Wo. 30 Annex. The Great Cave— of , ^ Eastern Nevada, lies about forty-five miles to the stamp mill at Newark, 22 miles north of where southwest of Eureka. It is situated in one of the Treasure City now 8t who ventured in many moons ago, was lucky enough to escape, with the loss ot those who accompanied him, and he is now styled "Cave Indian." According to the legend, he ventured in with some of his tribe and traveled until he came to a beautiful stream of water, where dwelt a great many Indians, who had small ponies and beautiful squaws. Though uiged to stay with his people, "Cave" preferred to return to sunlight. Watching his chances, when all were asleep, he stole away, and, after great suffer- ing, succeeded in reaching the mouth of the cave, but his people still live in the bowels of the eurth. The Indians thoroughly believe the story, and will not venture within the darkness. Another story is curreut among the people who live near by, which is, that the Slormons were once posses- sors of this cave, and at the time when they had the rupture with the United States Government, used it as a hiding place lor the plate and treas- ures of the Church and the valuables of the Mor- mon elders. The existence of the cave was not known to the whites, unless the Mormons knew of it, until 1866. A Little History — In the latter part of the summer of 1858, a party of prospectors from Mari- posa, in California, crossed the Sierra Nevada Mountains via Yo-Semite to Mono Lake, then in Utah, but now in that part of the country set off' to form Nevada. For three years the party worked placer mines and other gold along the various canyons and gulches extending eastward from the Sierras, which led others to continue prospecting further north, and who discovered Conistock Ledge. Other prospectors followed, and the dis- covery of rich veins in Lander, Esmeralda, Nye and Humboldt counties, and in the aajOining Territory of Idaho, was the result. The great "unexplored desert," on the map, was avoided until 1865 and 1866, when parties began to branch out and discover the rich argentiferous quartz and fine timber land, extending along a series of parallel valleys, from the Humboldt to the Colo- rado River. Several New York companies became interested in these discoveries, and erected a 20- Steptoe Valley. The ridge is low, not over 60 or 65 feet high, and presents no indica'ions which would lead one to suspect that it guarded the en- trance to an immense cavern. The entrance to the cave would hardly be noticed by travelers, it being very low and partly obscured. A rock archway, small and dark, admits the ex- plorer, who miist pass along a low passage for about 20 feet, when it gradually widens out, with a corresponding elevation of roof. Many of the chambers discovered are of great size; one, called the " dancing hall," being about seventv by ninety feet. The roof is about forty feet from the floor, which is covered with fine gray sand. Opening the " Monte Christo " mill was erected, at which a Shoshone Indian came one day with a specimen of better "nappias" than had yet been discov- ered, and, by his guidance, the rich mines dis- covered at Treasure Hill and the " Hidden Treas- ure " mine were located and recorded on the 14th of September, 1867. But, aside from the produc- tion of mineral, along these mountain ranges, another source of wealth exists in the valleys ex- tending through Nevada and Utah. We refer to that branch of business which has been gradually increasing— one which will bring a large revenue to the settlers along these valleys in stock-rais- ing. Bunch grass grows in abundance, and cattle 2C6 .A. IsT ZsT IE X: are easily wintered and fattened, finding a ready- market in tli 3 mining districts and westward to Sacramento and San Francisco. ::^'o. 3 I Anxkx. Xevacla falls.— 209. Sfo. :i^ Annex. Pioneer 3Iail Kjiter- prises.— (See page 218. IVo. SH Annex. The Doiiner Party.— (Illustration page 71). Around this beautiful sheetof water— nestled bo clogely in the embrace of these mighty mountains, smiling and joyous .in its matchless beauty, as though no dark sorrow had ever occurred on its shores, or its clear waters reflected back the wan and haggard face of starva- tion— is clustered the saddest of memories— a memory perpetuated by the name of the lake. In the fall of '46, a party of emigrants, mostly from Illinois, arrived at Truckee River, worn and wasted from their long and arduous journey. Among that party was a Mr. Donner, who, with his family, were seeking the rich bottom lands of the California rivers, the fame of which had reached them in their Eastern home. At that time a few hardy pioneers had settled near Sut- ter's Fort, brought there by the returning trap pers, who, with .wondrous tales of the fertility of the soil and the genial climate of California, had induced some of their friends to return with them and settle In this beautiful land. The Donner party, as it is generally called, was one of those parties, and under the guidance of a trapper, was journeying to this then almost unknown laud. Arriving; at the Truckee, the guide, who knew the danger threatening them, hurried thtm forward, that they might cross the dreaded Sierras ere the snows of winter should encompass them. Part of the train hurried forward, but Mr. Donner, who had a large lot of cattle, would not hurry. Despite all warnings, he loitered alon^ until, at last, he reached the foot of Donner Lake, and encamped there for the night. The weather was growing cold, and the black and threatening sky betokened the coming storm. At Donner Lake, the road turned to the left in those days, following up Coldstream, and crossing the Summit, near Sum- mit Meadows, a very difficult and dangerous route in fair weather. The party who encamped at the lake that night numbered 16 souls, amoEg whom were Mrs. Donner and her four children. During the night, the threatened storm burst over them in all its fury. The old pines swayed and bent be- fore the blast which swept over the lake, bearing destruction and death on its snow-laden wings. The snow fell heavily and fast, as it can fall in those mcuntains. Most of the frightened cattle, despite the herder's vigilance, " went off with the storm." In the morning the terror-stricken emigrants be- 1 eld one vast expanse of snow, and the large white fl ikes falling thick and fast. Still there was hope. Some of the cattle and their horses remained. They could leave wagons, and with the horses they might possibly cross the mountains. But here aroseanother difficulty, Mr. Donner was un- well, and could not go — or preferred to wait until the storm subsided; and Mrs. Donner, like a true woman, refused to leave her husband. The balance of the party, with the exception of one, a German, who decided to stay with the fam- ily, placed the children on the horses, and bade Mr. and Tilrs. Donner a hist good-by ; and after a long and iierildus battle witli the storm, they suc- ceeded in crossing the mountains and reaching the valleys, where the danger was at an end. ■ he storm continued, almost without intermission, for several weeks, and those who liad crossed the Summit knew that an attempt to roach tlie im- prisoned party would be futile— worse than follyj until the spring sun should melt away the icy barrier. I Of the long and dreary winter passed by these [three i^ersons, who shall tell? The tqjl stumps standing near where stood the cabin, attest the depth of snow. Some of them are twenty feet in height. Early in the spring a xjarty of larave men, led by Claude Cheney, started from the valley to bring out the iirisoners, expecting to find them alive and well, lor it was supposed that they had pro- visions enougii to last them through the winter, but it seems they were mistaken. After a desperate effort, whicli required weeks of toil and exposure, tha party succeeded in scaling the mcuntains, and came to the camp of the Donners. What a siglit met the first glance ! In a rudely constructed cabin, before the fire, sat tho Dutclimau, liokMug in a vice-like grasp a roasted arna and hand, which he was greedily eat- ing. With a wild and frightened look ho sprang to his feet and confronted tlie new comers, holding on to the arm as tliough he feared they wonld de- prive him of his repast. The remains of the arm were taken from him by main force, and the ma- niac secured. The remains of Mr. Donner were found, and, with those of his faithful wife, given such burial as the circumstances would permit, a d i aking the survivor with them, they returned to the valley. Tho German recovered, and still lives. His story is, that soon after the party left, Mr. Don- ner died, and was buried in the snow. The last of the cattle escaped, leaving but little food ; and when that was exhausted, Mrs. Donner died. Many d irk suspicions of foul play on the part of tho onljr survivor have been circulated, but whethertliey arecorrectwillnever be known, un- til tlie final imraveling of time's dark mysteries. Xo. H-i Annex. '-Roll I- m Tin ouch." — Oct. 17tli, 1S72, as an excursion train, loaded with passengers, most of whom were women a»d children, rounded the curve close below the tun- nel, and with No. (> train tliundering along clcse behind, the timbering in tlio tunnel was discov- ered by the fireman to be on fire. The engineer, JohnnyBaitholomew,compreliended the position at a glance, made one of the most brilliantdaslies, undertime circumstances, on record. The train past through the tunnel safely, when to have sto]iped short would have been sure death, G. H, Jennings, Esq,, of Brooklyn, N. Y., has put the following words in the mouth of the brave engineer: I ain't very much ou the lancy, And all that sort of stuff, For an engineer on a railroad . Is apt to be more "on the rough;" He don't "go much" on "his handsome," I freely "acknowledge the corn," But he has got to "git up" on his "wideawake," That's "just as sure's you're born." Mow, I'll tell you a little story, 'Bout "a run" we had for our necks, When we thought "old Gabe" had called us. To "ante up our checks." We came 'round the curve by the tunnel. Just beyond the American Flat, A'hen my fireman sings out, "Johnny I Lookahead! My God, what's that? " You bet, I warn't long in sightin' — There was plenty lor me to sec, With a train full of kids an' wlmmen. And their lives all hargin' on me— For the tunnel was roarin' and blazin', , All ragin' with lire an' smoke, And "Number Six" close behind us — " Quick, sonny ! shove in the coke." .A. JNTIsTEX:. 257 "Whistle 'down brakes,' " I first thonght: Then, think's I, "old boy, 't won't do;"' And with hand on throttle an' lever, I knew 1 77iust roll ''em through! Through the grim mouth of the tunnel — Through smoke an' flame, as well— Riwhtinto the "gateway of death," boys; Right smack through the "jaws of hell 1" The staunch "old gal" felt the pressure Of steam through her iron joints; She acted just like she was human — Just like she "knew all the points; " She glided along the tramway, With speed of a lightning flash, With a howl assuring us safety, Regardless of wreck or crash. I 'spose I might have "jumped the train. In hope to save sinew and bone, And left them wimmen and children To take that ride alone ; But I tho't of a day of reck'nin'; And whatever "Old John" done here. No Lord ain't going to say to him then, "You went back as an engineer! " Ho. 35 Annex. The Valley of the Yel- lowstone— No. 7, of the large illustrations, is engraved from a photograph taken by Prof. Hay- den, the great explorer of the West. It i)resentg a view of one of the finest and most picturesque portions of the valley. It is looking southward, above the first or lower canyon, and directly on the Snowy Range, whose white-capped summits may be seen on the left of the picture, extending up the river. Below is the first canyon, between the high, narrow, limestone walls of which, the Yellowstone flows, about three miles, and then makes its exit from the mountain region proper. The valley is about 20 miles in length, and from four to five miles in width, and is one of the most delightful portions of Montana. (See Annex No. 26 and 36.) 'So. 36 Annex The Falls of the Yel- loivstone — as illustrated in No 8 of our series of large views is one of the most perfect pictures ever made. It is from a photograph taken by Prof. Hay- den, andengravedbyBross, of New York. Itrt-pre- sents the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone, where the waters make a leap into the canyon, a dis- tance of 350 feet. Prof. Haydeu, in his report, says: "After the waters of the Yellowstone roll over the upper falls, (140 feet,) they flow with great rapidity over an apparently flat, rocky bottom, which spreads out to nearly double its width above the falls, and continues thus until near the Lower Fall, when the chHuuel again contracts, and the waters seem, as it were, to gather themselves into one compact mass, and plunge over the preci- pice in detached drops of foam, as white as snow, some of the huge globules of water shooting down through the sunlight, like the white fire contents of an exploded rocket. It is a spectacle infinitely more beautiful than the grandest picture ever presented of the famous Falls of Niagara. In the immediate vicinity of the Lower Falls, and in the grand canyon, the scene is indescribably beauti- ful. A heavy mist arises from the water at the foot of tlie falls, so derse that one cannot ap- proach within from two to three hundred feet of them, and even then the clothes will be drenched in a few moments. Upon the glowing, yellow, nearly vertical walls of the west side, the mist mostly falls, and for 300 feet from the bottom, the wall is covered with a thick matting of 1 'mosses, sedges, grasses, and other vegetation of the most vivid green, which havi sent their small roots into the softened rocks and are nour- ished by the ever-ascending spray. (See Annex No. 26 and 35.) :Xo. 37 Annex. Falls of the IVillamette Rivei'. (See page 215.) IVo. 3S Annex. Cape Horn. (See page 232.) Sfo. 39 Annex. \% ood Haulins in Ne- vada. (See page 232.) Xo. 40 Annex. Mirror f>ake Yo-Se- miteVaMey. (See page 209.) Xo. 41 Annex. The Pony Express. (See page 151.) Xo. 4i4 Annex. Nierra Xevada Moun- tains, (See page 138.) Xo. 43 Annex. Mount Shasta. (See pr.ge 214.) IVo. 44 Annex. IVnodward hardens— These Gardens were laid out in 1S60 by R. B. Woodward, Esq., a gentleman of enterprise and refined taste, to surround, adorn and beautify his private residence, situated near the center of the grounds. To this end the continents of both America and Europe were searched to procure every variety of ornamental trees, exotics, indi- genous plants, or ariicles of rare virtue and ralue. For us to attempt to describe these beaa- fifu) grounds, and d) justice to the subject, were we able would take a larger book than the Tour- ist. Ihey must be seen to be appreciated. You will find in the "Art Gallery " rare paintings and statuary : m the "Zoological d-partment a great variety of difi-erent kinds of wild animals, inclnding the Caliloi\iia lion, and a mammoth grizzly bear? weighing 1.600 pounds; al.^o a great variety of Calif jrnia buds. •' In these grounds are towering evergreen trees and crystal lakes, oriental arbors and beautiful statuary, delishtful nooki and shady retreats, with creeping vines, fragrant flowers, sparkling lountam-, sweet music, and, above all, the glo- rious California sky. Possessed of all these lux- uriant surroundings, and with ample income, could any person be surprised that Mr Wood- ward should persistently decline to open them to the curious public? But the time came at last It was when the solaiers and sailors of this coun- try lay bleeding in the hospitals, on the shipa, in the camps, and on the battle-fields, with widows, orphans, suflTeiing, and death on every side The sanitary fund was low. Money must be had! then It was that his noble heart leaped to the res- rue. The grounds were then thrown open to the public in aid of the Sanitary Fund. The re- ceipts were princely; and no one can say how many lives were saved, or the sufferings of the last moments of life alleviated, by the aid of the generous proprietor of the Woodward Gardens? 1 hese gardens were opened permanently to the public in May, 1866. They occupy five acres of ground, lour of which are bounded by Market, .vhssion, 13th and 14th streets, with one acre to the south of 14th street, connected by tunnel un- I'-v that street from the main ga-den. Xo. 4.'> Annex.— The Geysers— Page 184, X«. 4« Annex— The large vie^v of San Fraiioisco— See page 214. Xo. 47 A.NNEX. [From page 234.] The .4nelfnt Kuins of Arizona are very exten- sive, and are scattered over a large portion of the Territory. These ruins consist, in part, of towns, cities, and scattered hamlets; castles, temples and great buildings ; fortifications, huge walled enclosures and causeways, together with great canals, cisterns and reservoirs of immense 258 ^NNKX. feet in width ; one building is 350 feet long by 150 wide ; an immense castle is situated on the apex of a mountain, 3,000 feet above the valley. Potteryware and stone implements in great variety are scattered about the ruins, while rude hieroglyphics andpictures of men, animals, birds, turtles and reptiles are isaiuted on or cut deep into the rocks, at differenl places in the country. Burial, or cremation urns are olten found, some containing ashes and jjartly burned human bones. Casa Grande, (signifying ".Big Houtie,") one of these ruins, is situated a few miles south of the Gila river, on a gi"eatplain, about 14 miles north of the station of Casa Grande. This building is one of the best preserved, but unde, the medium Eize ; is 63 leet long by 4.5 feet wide ; the walls are of concrete, five feet thick, and are now standing about 40 feet in height, or a little over four stories. These ruins are pre-historic ; the builders have long since passed away, leaving no records of ■who they were ; when they lived ; whence they came, or whither they went. The first account in history of theseruins date back over 300 years— to the Sixteenth Ceuturv — at which time the Jesuit Fathers explored and described the country ; [its ruins and people ; their reports differ in no essential points from those of a later period, nor could the Fathers procure any information from the Indians then inhabiting the country, that would aid them to establish the identity of the people who bad built the cities, towns and other improvements, and who undoubtedly possessed nsuch civiliza- tion, and lived by cultivating the soil. Xo. -tH Annex. Painted Itockii!. — Mr. Hodge, in his work, "Arizo7ia as it is," says: "This mass of rock rises from the surface of the plain to n, height of perhaps 50 feet, the upper- most lieing a broken ledge from which masses have fallen off, and the whole coveting less than an acre of ground. On the standing ledge and, on the brokenmasses at its base, are carved deep in the surface rude representations of men, animals, birds and reptiles, and of numerous objects, real or imaginary, some of which,repre- sent checker boards, some camels and drome- daries, insects, snakes, turtles, etc., etc. ; and on the other broken rocks at the base of the ledge, are found on all sides like sculptured fig- ures, some of which are dee^jly imbedded in the eand. These pictured rocks present much of interest to the thinking mind, and when exam- ined by some one versed in hieroglyx)liica,j read- ing, may be found to give some clue to the time of making and thei^eople who made them." The earliest account we have of these "Painted Rocks," as well as the "Ancient Ruins " of Arizona, comes from the exisloration of the Jesuit Fathers, who traversed the country in tqe Sixteenth Century. In comparing their re- ports with the appearance of the "Rocks" and "Ruins" of the preseht time, very little, if any, change is noticeable. The Indians, in answer to all questions of the Fathers, as to who carved the rocks, or built the towers and cities then in ruins, received the same answer as the Pima Indians give at the present time, which was, "Moc-te-zu-ma." Xo. 49. Annex. Viewing Proeress— During the construction of the Pacific Railroad — and, in fact, for many years afterwards— the locomotive, cars, and all persons connected with the road , were viewed with gi-eat curiosity by the Indians in the country through which it waa built. The engines — "fire wagons" — and the long train of cars — "heaii wagon no hoss" — re- ceived the Indians' special attention ; and they would gather around on the hills at first, and then cautiously approach and watch every move- ment — lying around for days and months at a time. From the commencement of the building of the road through the Indian country until its completion, the Indians had awholesome fear of the "fire wagons." They would often attack small iiarties of graders, or stragglers from the camps ; but only in two or three instances did they attempt to distui'b the jiassing trains, and in those cases they were punished so severely, that ever afterward they declared "fire-wagon bad medicine. The illustration on page 233 represents a small party of Apache Mohaves, headed by their famous war chief, Mi-ra-ha, in 1868, who, "having heard about the terrible "fire-wagons," left their country in northernArizona, and made a pilgruuagetothe northward, many hundred miles to view thegreat curiosity. We learned from a half-breed, on a re- cent visit to Arizona, that Mi-ra-ha, after his re- turn to Arizona, resolved to gather his forces and capture one of these Pacific railroad 'fire-wagons.' But as Gen. Crook made it very lively for him at home for many years after his return , and as Capt. Porter sent him to his "happy hunting ground," in 1876, he has probably got all he can attend to. Xo. 50. Annex. Palace Hotel at Sian Franeisco. — This monster hotel of the world, is situated in the city of San Francisco occupy- ing one entire block of ground, 344 by 265 feet, boumiled by New Montgomery, Market, Annie and Jessie sti'eets. It is seven stories high (115 feet), the foundation walls are twelve feet thick, while the exterior and interior walls range from IJ.j feet to 4^2 feet in thickness. The foundation walls at tfieir base, are built with in.verted arches. All exterior, interior and partition walls, at every five feet, commencing , from the bottom of the foundation, are banded together with bars of iron, forming, as it were, a perfect iron basket-work filled in with brick. The quantity of iron so used, increases in every story towards the roof, and in the upper story the iron bands are only two feet apart. The roof is of tin, the partitions of brick and the cornice of zinc and iron. The building has three courts, the center one having an iron- framedglass covering, and is 144by'84feet, witha drive-way and sidewalk opening on NewMontgom- eiT' street, forty-feet wide. The two outercourts, from the basement level, are each 22 by 135 feet, with two drive-ways, 20 feet wide, one from Market and Annie streets, and one from Annie an' Jessie streets. These are connected by two brick-arched passage-ways, ten feet in width, allowing ample space for a four-in-hand team to pass under and through them. Besides the city water- wofks, a supply of water comes from four artesian wells of a ten-inch bore, whichhave acapacity of 28,000 gallons i)er hour. A reservoir is located under the centre court, cap- able of containing 630,000 gallons. On the roof are ■ seventanks, which will contain 128,000 gallons. The hotel is supplied with two steam force pumps for water, two additional for fire, five ele- vators, together with all the modern improve- ments, and buUt throughout in the most sub- stantial manner. (See illustration page 180.) Xo. 53 Annex. "Pricltey," the Horned Tuad. See page 126. ^^ 2sr :n^ E X. 25^ BTo. 53 Annex. Yo-Seniite and Bis Trees. See page 184. No. 5-I- Annex. Our Artists— The greater portion of the engraving in this work was exe- cuted by B. S. Bross, of New York, and C. W. Chandler, cor. Madison and Dearborn Sts., Chi- cago. Nearly all the large views, including "Utah's Best Crop," "Women of the Period," and "Brig- ham Young," and most of the large views were engraved frona photographs, by Mr. Bross, while the "Orange Orchard," "The Loop," "Crossing the Sangre de Christo Mountains," Yucca Palm," "Hanging Rock of Utah," etc., were engraved by Mr. Chandler. The photographs were by Savage, of Salt Lake City, and Watkins and Houseworth, of San Francisco. All of these artists we take pleasure in recommending. No. 55 Annex. The "Boss" Cactus of the "World — on page 2,33, a simple reference has been made to this wonderful Sprout as being peculiar to the Gila Desert. It is possible they may grow in other portions of the Territory, but certain i is, these are the first on our route. These Cacti are of different shades of green and yellow, and rise from the ground in the shajje of a hiige cone, many to the height of 60 feet, with a diameter of three feet near the ground. Some of these great cones have from one to five smaller cones that branch out from the main trunk at differen- heights, and shoot up parallel with it to various heights, all presenting the same general a.i)pearance. All these cones are grooved from top to bottom, the grooves being from one to three inches in depth and as many inches apart ; the whole sur- face ia covered with thorns of various sizes, — some three inches in length ; and all very shariJ. These cacti have a tough flaxen shell or exte- rior, but a soft, i)ithy inside, and produce one blossom annually — on the toji — and yield a kind of fruit much prized by the natives. On the Gila Desert, no tree or shrub grows more than a few feet from the ground, and rattle- snakes, hzards, owls, and woodpeckers are about the only living things noticeable. How the lizard and owl manage to raise the young, and keep them from being devoured by the snake, is a problem which the woodpecker alone has solved by pecking a hole in the tall cactus near its top, making its nest, and raising its young se- cure from the snake and all its creejjing enemies. As we ride alongandseeMr. Woodpecker peeking out from his fortress in the tall cactus, we cannot help but admire the sagacity of the little fellow, while condemning his judgment for attempting to Uve and bring up a respectable family in such a •'God-forsaken country" as the Gila Desert. No. 5S Annex. Ne^r ISacramento De- pot. See page 173. "So. as Annex. The Mammiith Snow Plow. See page 126, No. 64 Annex. Arizona is a Territory of 122,000 square miles, more than double the size of the State of Pennsylvania, and, if reports are true, contains a wealth of minerals far exceeding any portion of I the United States. Indian diffi- culties have had much to do in retarding the set- tlement of the Territory, but happily they are now at an end, and the i)roximity of the "iron horse" has had a tendency to direct attention to this heretofore almost inaccessible region, the result of which will soon enable the land of Ari- ztittma — "The Beautiful of the Sun" — to come for- ward and demand admission into the Union of States as one more star in the bright constella- tion. Spanish Adventurers penetrated Arizona as early as 1540, but no i^ermanent settlement was made until 1560, when the Jesuit Fathers'settled with their followers at Tucson. In 1725 there were thirty missions within the present limits of Arizona, besides seventy-one Indian villages in charge of the Jesuit Missionaries. At that time these missions were in the height of their pros- perity, and from which time they commenced to decline, owing principally to Indian difficulties. Many of the Missions were burned and the jiriests murdered. The mineral deposits of Arizona are very exten- sive and very rich ; principally gold, silver, cop- per and coal, but we have no space to particularize. We will simply presentafew "items," andchron- ological events : In 1540, the Spanish viceroy — Mendoza -ordered an exi^loration of Arizona, at which time there were 200 silver mines being worked. The miners and peoijle were despoiled and immense wealth carried away to Madrid, Sijain. In March, 1539, Padre Marco de Niza, and Senor Estivanico — a man of color — left CaUacana — New Spain— and reached the GUa River, and discovered the Pima Indian villages, at the same point in the valley that their descendents are now found. In 1560, the first settlement was made at Tuc- son. An Indian outbreak in 1802, and again in 1827, made the tenure of the Spanish rule pre- carious and practically ended it ; yet, soldiers remained in the country in small numbers until 1840. In 1824, Sylvester Pattie and his son James — formerly of Bardstown, Ky. — visited Ari- zona on a trapping expedition, failing in their ef- forts to find game, they were arrested by order of the Mexican commander of San Diego and im- prisoned, where the father died. Sometime af- terwards James was released, and joined the famous Walker expedition and was killed in battle. In 1849, the "Southern Route" — through Ari- zona — was much frequented by emigi'ants en- route for the gold fields of California, which re- sulted in much suffering and loss of life. Arizona and New Mexico were ceded to the United States by Mexico, Februai-y 2d, 1848— or that portion laying north of the Gila and MasiUa valleys. The portion to the south, was not ac- quired until December 30, 18.53, and was known as the "Gads-den's Purchase." This last acquisi- tion formed a part of Sonora. The Boundary Commission commenced its work in the summer of 1849 and comijleted it in 1855. Cap. John Moss — is said to be the first explorer of the Grand Canon of the Coloi-ado.in 1850. Major Heintzehuan located Fort Yuma in 185 1. Lieut. Ives, explored the Colorado River and its lower canons, in 18.54. Lieut. A. B. Gray, in 1854, made a survey for a railroad from Marshall, Texas, to El Paso and thence westward to Tubac, from which point branch surveys were made to PostLabos, on the Gulf of California, and via Yuma to San JDiego. — This line was known as the Hon. Robert J. Walker route, for which bonds were issued in 1852. Lieut. Park, in 1854-5, made a survey from San Diego, Cal., via Yunaa and Tucson to El Paso, Texas. Yuma — first called Arizona City — was laid out in 1854. In August, 1856, a party left San Antonio, Texas, to prospett for mineral in An- 260 --V isr N- K X . zona. Their route -was via Apache Pass— and a perilous one. UiJon their arrival at Tubac — the party was divided and a hunt for silver mines commenced through the mountains of Santa Rita, Arivaca and the Cerro Colorado. Many mines were discovered and several companies formed for working them, but the Apaches got away with most of the mineral and (ill the scalps. The Crabb expedition — of 1,000 men — raised in California, in j 856-7, for colonizing Sonora, reached Sonoita, Arizona, in March, ] 8.57. By invitation of the Sonora authorities, an advance of 100 men with their commander, Henry A. CraLb, entered Sonora soou alter, and were met atCoborca, by Pesqueira, Governor of the State of Sonora, and every person killed. Crabbs' head was cut off and sent by the Governor to the City of Mexico, as an evidence of his loyalty to his government. This act checked immigration to Sonora. In 1837, Senator Guiuu of California, endeav- ored to secure a territorial organization for Ari- zona, but failed. In August, 1857, J. C. Woods, established a semi-monthly stage line, between San Antonio, Texas, and San Diego, Cal. In 1858, the Butter- field semi-weekly stage line was established, be- tween St. Louis, Mo., and San Francisco, Cal., with a subsidy from the Government of .8600,000 a year.— Time 83 days. His service was faith- fully performed — without n single failure — until 1861, the outbreak of our civil war, when the route was changed, leaving St. Joseph, Mo., and going via Salt Lake City, Utah. In 1861, the Government troops were with- drawn from Arizona and the Indians and des- perados took possession. In 1860, Senator* Green of Missouri, endeav- ored to have a bill passed for a temjiorary Gov- ernment for Arizona, but failed. In 1800, a fiUibustering expedition was fitted out in CaUforuia to invade Sonora, but without The' 27th of February, 1862, Cap. Hunter of the Southern Confederacy with 100 men, took possession of Tucson. The advance of Gen'l Carlton, with the California column of Federal troops, met Capt. Hunter's forces, near Pecacho Peak — 40 miles west of Tucson — resulting in a victory for Gen'l Carlton, and the retreat of all Confederate troops into Texas. February 2-lth, 1^03, Congress passed the Or- ganic Act, estabhshing Arizona as a Territory, with John N, Goodwin, of Maine, as Governor. Arizona, until February 24th, 1863, was a jiart of New Mexico. The Territory was formally organized on Dec. 24th, 1863, at Navajo Springs, 40 miles north- west from the noted Zuni Pueblo. When the Territory was organized, it was said to contain 32,40O Indians and only 580 Whites. An old Arizonian said, when he saw the first locomotive coming : "I felt just as though I must go and hug it." In 1880, the production of precious metals in Arizona was $4,472,471. In 1881 , the same was $8,198,766— an increase of 83,726,295. Should we venture to jsrophesy — tor 1882 — oiir figures ■would exceed 810,000,000, and — for 1890 — $25,000,000. This Territory— in a mineral point of view — is greatly uiulerraied. The Indian trouiales of last year have tended to make, not only every soldier, but every teamster, wood-chopper, burro puncher, mule-skinner, bull- Whacker and all other men — traveling arsenals ; with a belt about the waist loaded with cartridges, a pair of six-shooters, a formidable knife and a rifle for long range. The soil in the valleys of Arizona is a rich gravelly alluvium, and with sufficient water, would produce abundant crops ; in some portions, two croijs a year. The rains come in July, August and Septem- ber, and the sand storms cloud bursts a'nd "bliz- zards" occasionally. During our civil war, Arizona was one field of carnage. Inctiau dexwedations, nearly devastated the country. Over 40,000 square miles of coal formation can be traced in the Territory ; one of the most im- portant is the San Carlos Indian Reservation. Just east of Old Maricojia Wells stage station, at the base of the Estrella range, may be seen a remarkable formation, representing distinctly the perfect face of a man reclining, with his eyes closed, as though in sleep. The Indians in this country have a legend concerning this face. They believe it is Montezuma's face — and that he will awaken from his long sleep some day, wUl gather ah the brave and ttie faithful around him, uplift his down-trodden peojile, expell the invaders on his rights, and restore to his kingdom all the great power and glory, as it was before the white man visited it. — It is reported, that in some localities, watch-fires are kept constantly burning in anticipation of Montezuma's early coming. ]\o. C5 Annex. EMIGRANT SJLEEP- IXfir CARS — Of all the improvements adopted by Raih-oad companies in this country, for the comfort and convenience of their passengers, the Sleeping" Car, is the most important, and we might add, the inost expensive to the passengers. Indeed, the charges for berths in Sleeping Cars, on many roads — together with onerous perquis- ites, virtually exclude the greater portion of the traveling pviblic. Most men emigrating with their wives and fanailies to the El Dorado of the West, start with small means, depending upon pluck, energy and hard work, for the future out- come ; these parties cannot pay three or more dollars a day for sleeping accommodations, how- ever anxious they may be, to alleviate the hard- ships incidental to a long journey in the emi- grant cars. The honest, sober, industrious, economical and enterisrising emigrant, is the germ of lije in our trans-Missouri country. To cherish, aid, and ameliorate the condition of the emigi-ant, is to hasten the settlement of the vast amount of un- occupied land, and the developemeut of the enor- mous mineral and other resources of the great West, the results of which, are not only of great interest to all good citizens, hut oi ijaramount importance to the gi-eat Raih'oads of the country, the basis of whose existence are founded iipon the very class of emigrants named, without which they would never have been built. Families emigrating, should have the special care , attention, mid pirotectioii, of the Railroad companies' agents, over whose road they are trav- eling, t gether with all the comforts and conveni- ences possible, and at the loicest rates of fare. The Pacific Raih-oaii companies' agents have al- ways been noted for the fatherly attention shown their emigrant passengers, and the Sleeping Cars now in use by this line, especially for their erni- grants, are for comfort and convenience, far in advance of any car heretofore used on emigrant trains. These cars are 44 feetlong, 9 feet 4 inches A.N ?i!$ K. K. This road was commenced in 1879, at Jackson, Neb., on the line of the Union Pacific, seven miles west of Columbus, and ili) west ot Omaha, and is now completed and run- ning to Norfolk, 4G miles north, at which place it connects with the railroad running up the Elk- horn Valley from Fremont. [See page 29.] This new road runs through a rich agricultural and well-settled section of countrj', and, as its name implies, its objective point is the gold regions of tile Black Hills, towards which it is being pushed with the usual energy displayed by the Union Pacific management, by whom it is controlled. The line of this road has recently been changed and now runs fromi Columbus. ITEIIS— Gold— It is reported that Sir Fran- cis Drake was the first discoverer of gold ou the Pacific Coast. He landed on the coast a few miles north of the Bay of San Francisco, in the summer of 1.57S, and reported to Queen Elizabeth: "There is no part of earth here to be taken up wherein there is not a reasonable quantity of gold and silver." Yet the discovery was not followed up. ITEMS. — The Southern Pacific Eailroad reached El Paso, Texas, May 13th, 1881. The Texas & Pacific connects with the Southern at Sien-a Blanca, 91 'i miles east from El Paso, and runs into El Paso on the Southern's track. The first train of the Texas & Pacific rolled into El Paso, December 31, 1881. January 16th, the Southern — or the Galveston, Harrisburg & San Antonio Railway — was completed to Marfa, 19.5 miles east of El Paso. The Mexican Central, had February 1 st, 1882, over 50 miles of track laid from El Paso, south, into Old Mexico. The elevation of El Paso, is 3,300 feet above sea level. Its population is about 3,000. El Paso Del Norte, Mexico, has a Mexican population of about 4,000. GRIP-SACK GUIDEOF COLORADO. A COMPLETE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF THE STATE. 4Sg" Will you please to read a few of the opinions of this book from Coloradoans— those most competent to judge of its merits? Indorsement by the Denver Board of Trade. George A. Cboputt, Esq.— The copy of your " Grip Sack Guide of Colorado," presented to this Board came duly to hand. I have to report to you that the Board of Directors, by resolution, pass- ed you a vote of thanks and expressed the opinion that it is the most complete, concise and truth- ful book ever published on the resources of our State, and give it their miqaulified indorsement. To this I would add my own approval, assuring the tourist, emigrant and the public generally who desire a most complete encyclopedia of Colorado that they will find it full of interest from begin- ning to end. Yours respectfully, J. T. CORNFORTH, President Board of Trade. " The most comijlete, most thorough and reliable guide that has ever been offered to the community. The boob, which has nearly 200 pages and near 100 illustrations, contains in a con- densed form all that the traveler or the tenderfoot need to know about the wonderful land that sur- rounds us." — lioclcy Momitain News, Denver, Colo. ^' The subject matter is carefully prepared, and a large amount of excellent matter is con- densed in its columns. San Juan is treated in a fair manner." — Silver World, Lake City, Colo. " To the tourist and travel? r the work is indispensable ; in fact, none traveling over any portion of Colorado, can afford to do without it." — Tribuiie, Greeley, Colo. " It is the most complete, authentic and concise work ever written on the Centennial State." — Elk Mountain Pilot, Irwin, Colo. " The Grip Sack is a model for all books of its kind. It is elegantly and copiously illustrated, and furnishes the most valuable information in the most convenient form." — Gazette, Colorado Springs, Colo. " The most complete work ever published on this State, as the author has made personal tours through the State and knows whereof he speaks, and is also a man capable of seeing and describing;." — Independent, Alamosa, Colo. " It is free from gloss or 'taffy' so often found in works of this kind." — San Juan Herald. " Without hesitation we pronounce it the most perfect, complete and convenient work of the kind that ever came under our notice. It is a work invaluable to those visiting the State, and of great interest and importance to everybody. ' — Mountaineer, Colorado Springs, Colo. " It is a pei-fect gem of typographical art and is chuck full of information, which makes it a most desirable book for tourists and others coming into the State, as it tells, to use its own language, what is worth seeing, where to see it, how to go, where to stop and what it costs." — Sierra Journal, Kosita, Colo. J&S= Crof utt's Grip-Sack Guide is piiblished by The Overland Publishing Co., of Omaha, Neb., printed on fine tinted paper, magnificently illustrated, bound in full cloth and gold, for the library, and a Railway Edition in flexible cloth. It contains a complete map (colored) ol the State, and is for sale by news agents on all regular passenger trains in the Western country. ^W Don't fail to buy the G7ip-Sack if you, want to k)ioiv all about the great Centennial State; the Btatc that produces annually the largest amount of precious metals in the ivorld — ovek $26,000,000. 262 OVERLAND TIME TABLE. UNION PACIFIC EASTERN DIV. + Meals. P. J. Nichols, Division Supt., Omaha, Neb. * Telegraph. WEST BOUND. Denver Express. Daily Emigr'nt. 7.00+ PM 7.35 7.45 8.00 8.13 8.30 8.50 8.. 57 9.10 9.25 9.37 9.54 10.13 10.30 10.47 11.05 11.23 11.40P1I 12.04 12.18 12.31 12.45 12.58 1.07 1.24 1.37 1.55 2.23 2.42 3.00 3.15 3.35 3.45 4.00 4.00 4.25 4.48 5.00 5.15 5.33 5.48 6.00 6.24 6.43 6.55 7.05 7.23 7.40 5.47 6.28 7.00 7.25 7.55 8.32 8.42 9.00 9.40 10.03 t 10.35 11.10 11.40 12.17 A : 12.55 1.35 2.15 3.07 3.33 4.00 4.27 4.. 53 5.03 5.40 6.05 6.35 + 7.50 8.30 9.05 9.35 10.12 10.30 11.00 11.20 11.50 12.45 P 1.05 1.35 + 2.10 2.37 3.00 3.45 4.20 4.39 5.00 5.30 G.OO + Daily Ex. 1st & 2d Class. 15PMt 25 40 52 09 30 37 50 05 15 + 53 12 30 48 08 29 47 12 26 40 54 08 16 33 46 00 + 42 05 25 42 05 16 33 44 03 30 42 59 20 35 48 15 A M 37 50 oe 23 40 OMAHA TIME. STATIONS. Lv. .Transfer Ar Lv *Omaha Depot Ar Summit Siding *GiliBore *Papillion ' *Millard *Elkhorn Waterloo * Valley Mercer *Fremont Ames *.Nortli Bend. . . . Rogers *Schuyler ,*Benton *Columbus *Duncan *Silver Creek 'Havens *Clark's Thummel's *Central City. . . . Paddock *Cliapmau's. . . . Lockwood *Grand Island... Alda *Wood Kiver. . . . Shelton *Gibbon *Buda *Kearney Junction, Stevenson Odessa *Eha Creek *Overton Josselyn *Plum Creek Cayotte Cozad *Wil'ow Island Warren *Brady Island Hindrey Maxwell Gannett Ar *North Platte Lv 966 1142 976 972 1047 1150 1140 114 1120 1176 1270 1259 1359 1335 1440 1432 1470 1534 ieio 1686 1760 1800 1850 1907 1974 2010 2046 2106 2150 2170 2241 2305 2330 2370 2440 2480 2511 25''0 2637 2695 2752 2789 EAST BOUND. Daily Ex. 1st & 2d Class. 4.00 P M 3.25PMf 3.10 2.55 2.42 2.25 2.06 2.00 1..50 1.34 1.20 t 12.38 12.18 12 00 nooa 12.43 11.25 11.05 10.47 10.21 10.08 9.54 9.40 9.25 9.16 9.00 8.46 8.30 + 7.50 7.30 7.10 6.54 6.32 6.21 6.05 5.53 5.35 5.12 5.00 4.45 4.25 4.10 3.58 3.33 3.14 2 02 2 52 2.35 2.20 A M Daily Emigr'nt. 20 00 30 05 35 55 45 25 50 25 + 50 13 A : 45 47 08 35 00 15 50 50 00 33 16 46 25 00 + 03 28 55 25 45 25 55 35 05 P 23 03 34 59 ,33 ,10 ,25 ,48 ,25 ,05 ,27 ,00 A Denver Express. .OOt AM 35 22 07 55 40 21 15 05 50 38 21 02 45 27 08 49 31 07 45 41 28 15 07 50 37 20 52 33 15 P M 00 night 40 30 16 06 51 30 17 03 46 32 21 58 40 ,30 21 05 ,50 p M MOUNTAIN DIVISION. BOBEBT Law, Div. Supt. North Platte, Nf.b. 8.00 6.30 P M 2.00 A M 291 8.18 7.10 2.25 299 8.25 7.50 2.45 308 8.55 8 38 3.00 315 9.13 9.03 3 20 322 9; 36 9.47 3.45 332 9.57 10.33 4.07 342 10.02 10.40 4.12 344 10 21 11.20 4.30 351 10.44 12.00 night 4.55 361 11,02 12.. 37 A M 4.20 369 11.10 A M 12.. 55 5.32 A M 371 iLv North Platte Ar Nichols ....*0'Fallon's Dexter *Alkali Koscoe *Ogalalla Bosler Brule ....*Big Spring Barton .♦Denver Junction 2789 2882 2976 3000 2.00 1.38 1.13 12.53 3038 '12. 33 3105)12.10 A M 3190 11.45 .... 11.40 3266,11.20 3325 10.53 3421110.32 3430! 10. 22 5.35 5.05 4.30 4.05 3.20 2.22 1.27 1.20 12.42 A yi 12. 00 night 11.18 11.00 7.30 7.10 6.50 6.35 6.10 5.56 5.36 5.32 5.15 4.55 4.37 4.30 P M Note.— See thu-d page ahead for continuation of Overland Time. OVERLAJSTD TIME TABLE. 263 UNION PACIFIC KANSAS PACIFIC DIV. D. E. CornelIj, Gen'l Agt. Pass' r and Ticket Departments Kansas City, Mo. WEST BOUND TRAINS. Emigr'nt 11.00 11.05 11.55 12.12 A 12.2.5 12.37 12.56 1.36 1.40 2.00 2.40 2.54 3.00 3.20 3.40 4.08 4.20 4.39 5.03 5.28 6.00 6.26 7.20 7.50 8.30 9.24 9.55 10.08 11.18 11.46 12,20 P 12.57 1.31 1.56 2.30 3.15 3.35 4.06 4.35 4.46 5.12 5.40 6.32 7.40 8 31 9.20 9.33 9.54 10.. 50 A 12.10 1.05 2.20 3.. 50 5.10 5.35 0.10 Col. Ex. 9.50 9.50 9.55 10.26 10.36 10.46 10.54 11.07 11.32 11.35 11.38 12.05 P 12.15 12.19 12.26 12.41 12.58 1.00 + 1.31 1.46 2.01 2.20 2.36 2.55 3.23 3.45 4.17 4.32 4.43 5.17 6.35 5.50 + 6.33 6.53 7.08 7.30 7.45 8.10 8.27 8.12 8.49 9.03 9.25 9.48 10.22 10.50 11.11 11.19 11.30 11.56 12.27 A 12.57 1.17 1.33 2.25 + 2.40 3.02 * Pac. Ex. 3.00 P M 15 20 54 04 14 22 35 01 A M 04 07 35 44 48 55 10 29 31 45 02 19 41 00 30 48 10 41 00 08 45 01 35 t 02 26 45 10 40 52 12 27 35 50 10 35 16 46 15 P M 22 35 05 10 + 40 05 45 25 40 04 OW STATIOXS. *Tel. + Meals. Lv Boston. .Ar .New York. . ..Chicago.. . .St. Louis . Lv *Kausa3 City Ar *Leavenworth *State Line *Arnistrong *Edwardville , Tiblow Loring Lenape *Linwood L. & L. Junction Bismarck Grove *Lawrence Willianaston Perry Ville Medina Newman *Grantville . ..A.,T. & S. F. Crossing.. *Topeka Menoken *Silver Lake *Rossville *St. Marys Belvue *Waraego St. George ''Manhattan *Ogdensburg Ft. Eiley * Junction City *Hazleton *Detroit *Abi!ene *SolorQon New Cambria *SaIina *Bavaria *BrookviIle Areola *Alum Creek Mount Zion Fort Harker *Ellsworth Black Wolf * Wilson *Bunker Hill *Pajssell *Gorham Walkei *Victoria *Havs *Eiris *Ogallah *WaKeeney *Co-lo-no *Buffalo Park Grainfield *GrinneU EAST BOUND TRAINS. Atlantic Ex. 1018 1018 1042 1078 1090 1100 1132 1153 1173 1193 1243 1289 1366 1459 1586 1672 1600 1556 1583 1702 1882 1962 2009 213: 2385 12773 5.52 p M 5.55 5.. 50 5.18 5.08 4.59 4.51 4.38 4.13 4.10 4.07 3.40 3.31 3.27 3.20 3.07 2.50 2.48 2.35 2.18 2.02 1.42 1.24 1.05 12.42 12.22 11.53 11.. 35 11.29 10.54 10.38 10 22 9.. 59 9.38 9.21 8.59 8.40 Eastern Ex. 2.25 P M 7.. 50 7.35 7.28 7.15 6.. 55 6.32 5.. 55 5.27 5.00 4.52 4.42 4.10 3.35 2.40 2.10 1.35 1.00 ....!12.45 2922! 12. 22 .55 .30 .25 .55 .46 .39 .33 .22 .00 ..58 .55 ,31 .24 ,20 13 ,01 ,47 ,25 ,14 01 46 30 16 53 ,35 ,19 P M 51 .36 30 ,58 ,48 30 10 .50 35 15 40 + 30 15 01 53 42 17 59 25 03 37 30 20 55 ,17 t ,54 ,32 14 ,25 .06 .43 AM Emigr'nt 6 .05 3.10 05 .55 ,05 49 ,36 23 04 25 20 15 P M 38 21 ,14 01 35 03 00 24 56 30 55 26 45 45 10 00 25 10 03 30 03 A M 15 25 00 10 45 10 30 00 45 12 37 53 45 55 10 55 35 P M 2.7 15 35 55 40 10 44 45 A M Jefferson Citv f.me — .50 mi'-iutes faster than Denver. 264 OVERLAND TIME TABLE. UNION PACIFIC KANSAS PACIFIC DIV. COlTTHsTTJEID. TRAINS BOUND WEST. aw STATIONS. tMeals. *Tel. 03 . > a TRAINS BOUND EAST. Emigr't. Col. Exp. Pacific Express. -Atlantic Exj)ress. Eastern Express. Emigr't. 7.06 3.34 4.01 4.44 j.20 + 6.02 6.30 7.00 7.39 8.22 9.05 9.25 + 10.44 11.55 12.28 1.31 2.30 P M 5.40 6 10 7.00 7.10 + 8.55 9.30 10.00 10.45 11.35 p M 12.30 1.10 2.10 3.40 4.15 5.25 6.35 9.00 11.26 A M 1.50 P M 376 387 405 420 4.52 461 472 487 509 523 534 555 583 595 617 639 639 690 741 639 655 684 727 769 3064 3199 3121 3319 4024 4295 4595 4307 4666 4859 5068 .5511 5203 11.52 11.21 10.40 10.00 7.25 6.55 6.30 5.50 5.00 4.14 3.50 2.45 1.25 12.. 50 A M 1.16 A M 12 49 12.06 A M 10.35 9.25 9.05 8.41 8.00 7.15 6.34 6.15 5.04 3.52 3.25 2.33 1.30 P M y 4.T 8 00 1 45 9.30 12 20 A M 10. K A M 11 00 1.05 7 05 1.55 2.55 . .*Cheyeuno Wells. 6.25 5 37 4.55 *Kif-, Carson 3.57 6.10 2.20 7.30 8.20 Mirage 12.45 12.05 P M 9.50 9.10 H.50 P M *Deer Trail 6.. 50 J2.50 5.50 2.30 *Box Elder ^•■iu; 11.46 10.45 4.05 4.0O Ar.. Denver ..Lv 5197 2.00 4 BO Lv. Lv.. A V ' Denver ...Ai- 5197 4479 6041 C.50 4.32 2 10 1 40 A M 7.45 A M 10.05 11.50 p M Cheyenne. .. . Denver Golden ..Lv . ..Ar 6.00 P M 7.00 A M 7.30 9.25 11.25 1.25 P M 5197 10 no 5387 5184 4966 63'' 5 9.15 7.37 5 45 4 00 P M ....Fort Collins... .Colorado Junction iiv 1 1 UNION PACIFIC St. JOS^EPH & WESTERN DIV. EN, Genen GOING WEST. STATIONS. + Meals. GOING EAST. No. 1. No. 3. Pac. Ex. No. 4. No. 2. a This Train connects with Express on Main < L,iue for Omaha, and all points East mlnS 0.30 A M 6.42 6.54 7.21 7.25 7.. 53 8.05 8.22 8.47 9.10 9.21 9.40 10.05 10.31 11.04 11.. 33 12.30+ PM 12.45 1.10 1.45 1.57 2.26 3.05 3.30 3.50 4.10 4.. 34 4.. 56 5.45 6.15 6.47+ PM 1 6 14 15 25 29 34 43 54 61 69 77 89 99 112 118 128 137 142 1.5-2 167 17o lfi,3 Lv St. Joseph Ar El-wroa 9.00 P M 8.48 8.35 8.10 8.06 7.37 7.25 7.08 6.43 0.21 6.09 5.50 + 'J. H if ^ s ft P c i E i ? 5 8.47 A M 8.07 7.30 . . .Troy Morrill Oneida 5.06 4.42 4.08 3.40 3.00 2.44 2.20 1.45 1.32 1.05 + 12. OF P M 11.44 71.25 Axtell Steele Citv 191 200 209 227 1 240 1 2521 11.07 10.42 10. 21 9.35 9.05 8.35 A M . . Fairfield Note.— Trains run on St. Joseph time between St. Joseph and Grand Island. OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 265 UNION PACIFIC MOUNTAIN DIV. + Meals. * Telegraph. WEST FROM OMAHA. Daily Emigr'nt. 12.55 1.2 2.15 3.00 3.45 ■1.30 t 5.30 6.20 7.00 7.4.5 8.12 8.40 9.. 30 10.00 10.32 11.10 11.45 12.20 p 12.. 55 1.40 + 2.55 3.17 3.40 4.05 4.40 5.20 6.20 6.50 7.20 8.05 8.20 p Daily Express lst&2dc's 32 .48 20 .48 ,18 ,45 + ,85 ,0 3 00 13 35 05 22 40 00 noon 17 p M 37 55 20 + 00 15 30 , 50 15 43 08 25 43 10 20 P M OMAHA TIME. STATIOXS. 371 Denver Junction. . 377 Weir 387 Chappel 397 *Lodge Pole.... 407 Coltou 414 *Sidney 423 Brownson 433 *Potter 442 Dix 451 *Antelope 457 Adams 463 Bushnell 473 *Piue Bluffs, W. T. 479 Tracj 484 Egbert 490 Burns 496 *Hillsdale .502 Atkins 508 *Archer 516 *Cheyenne 522 Colorado Junction. 526 Boris 531 Otto 536 *Grauite Canon . . 543 *Buford 549| *Slieniian 555| Tie Siding 558i Harney 564| *Red Buttes.... 570 *Fort Sanders... 573' *Larainie 5 EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. Daily S llSdcUEmigr-nt. Daily H 3430 3500 3702 3800 4022 4073 4200 4370 4580 4712 4784 4860 5026 5149 5272 5428 5591 5800 6000 6041 0325 6469 6724 7298 7780 8242 7985 7857^ 7336' 7163 7123 22 p t)8 40 15 50 05 + 40 15 50 27 12 50 30 15 00 45 30 12 57 15 t 55 43 30 13 50 23 00 45 30 12 05 P .50 P M .30 .40 .55 .15 .05 .27 .45 .07 .28 .05 .37 .52 .27 .00 .32 .05 .20 P M .57 .50 .15 .50 .25 .40 .00 .00 .25 .00 .35 .57 .45 A M LAKAMIE DIVISION. E. Dickinson, Div. Supt Labamie, W. T. ! 9.00 p 1 9.40 ]10.09 10.45 11.20 111. 47 112.15 A 12.40 1.00 1.30 2.1i? 2.. 55 3.33 3.-50 4.2.5 4. ,50 5.13 6.00 6.. 3 J 7.00 7.42 8.2a '10.00 10.30 11.10 ]. .45 n.20 p : 12.55 I 1.40 00 E 22 ,37 ,57 ,15 ,30 ,46 ,05 ,20 + ,05 ,30 ,50 24 ,35 ,00 13 29 48 08 24 45 05 A M 50 10 36 55 20 40 10 573 .581 588 595 602 606 611 614 623 630 638 645 652 656 662 669 675 680 688 694 702 709 716 723 730 737 744 7.52 761 . . . *Laramie Av Howell . ..*Wyoming Huttons *Cooper's Lake . . .*Lookout Harper's *Miser ..*Rock Creek Wilcox Aurora *Medicine Bow .Niles Junction . ...*Carbon Simpson *Percy Dana *Edson ....Wolcott . . .Fort Steele . . . Grennville . . .*Rawlins Solon . . *Separation . . .Fillmore . . .*Creston . . ..Latham .*Wash-a-kie .*Red Desert 7123 11.20 3.15 7090 11.00 2.38 7068 10.46 2.10 7048 10.30 1 42 7044 10.14 1.15 7169 10.00 6.45 71'iO 9.42 12.15 A M 6810 9.20 11.40 6690 9.05 + 11.13 7033 8.22 10.35 6680 8.00 9.55 6550 7.42 9.00 6540 7 ''2 8.25 6750 7.14 8.10 6898 6.. 55 7.42 6950 6.40 7.22 6875 6.23 6.55 6751 6.00 6.20 6800 5.37 5.45 6840 5.20 5.19 6560 4.59 4.43 6732 4 40 4.10 3821 4.C6 2.55 3900 3.35 2.15 3885 3.10 1.35 7030 2.50 1.05 mm 2.20 12.20 p n 6697 1.50 11.40 67lO 1.20 10.57 266 OVERLAND TIMK TABLE. UNION PACIFIC LARAMIE I)IV, co-tM TiJsrxjuiiD. + Meals. * Telegraph. WEST FROM OMAHA u da 5° LARAMIE TIME. a d 03 EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. Daily Emigr'nt Daily Express lst&2dc's STATiOXS. Daily Express lst&2dc'8 Daily Emigr'nt 2.15 2.50 3.15 3.35 4.18 4.40 5.08 5.32 G.OO G.30 7.00 7 40 8. IOp Mi- 3.35 3.57 4.12 4.26 4.53 5.08 5.25 5.40 G.OO 6.20 6.40 7.05 7.25 + 768 775 780 785 794 798 805 810 817 825 831 839 845 Tipton • *Table Rock Monell *Bitter Creek *Black Bnttes Hallville *Point of Rocks Thayer *Salt Wells Baxter *Rock Springs Wilkins Ar Green River Lv 6800 6890 6785 6685 6600 6590 6490 6425 6360 6300 6280 6200 0140 1.0' 12.3 12. lu 12.01 A M 11.35 11.20 11.00 10.45 10.25 10.02 9.45 9.18 9.00 + 10.30 9.50 9.24 8.40 7., 55 7.30 7.00 6.32 6 00 5.28 4.55 4.15 3.45 AVESTERN DIVISION. W. B. Doddridge, Div. Supt Evanstox. 8.40 P 9.25 9.55 10.25 11.10 11.55 12.25 A 1.10 1.55 2.15 3.00 4.00 4.30 4., 50 5.40 G.18 G.47 7.10 8.00 8.35 t 9.35 10.55 11.40 12.35 P 1.00 1.30 2.10 f 45 PMt 845 12 853 30 858 50 866 15 870 45 887 05 89G 35 904 00 913 15 918 45 928 25 P M 937 42 942 55 945 25 t 955 55 956 10 961 25 966 58 975 20 982 50 991 20 999 45 1007 05 1015 18 1019 40 1024 00 -f 1032 Lv *Green River Ar Peru *Bryan Marston *Granger *Church Bnttes Hampton *Carter "Bridger Lei-oy *Piedmoiit, *Aspen *Hilliard Millis *Evanston Almy Junction Midway * Wasatch *Castle Rock *Emory *Echo *Croydon * Weber *Peterson Devil's Gate *Uiutah Ar *Ogden Lv Utah & Noi-tliern Branch U. P. R'Y. NORTH- a: WARD. Pass'ngr (^ 7.00 P M 7.30 9 8.15 21 10.55 58 12.40 80 5.45 A M 1.58 6.55 181 8.45 206 10.50 245 12.40 P M 274 5. 20 350 7.20 380 10.30 p M 416 ^ STATIONS. Lv.tOgden. Ar .Hot Springs . . .Brighaui. . Logan . . .Franklin. . . ..Pocatello. . . .+Blackfoot. ..Eagle Rock. .... Camas . . . iBeaver Canon ....f Dillon... Melrose... Ar.. Butte. .Lv SOUTH- WARD. Pass'ngr 7.45 A M 7.00 6.30 3.40 2.20 9.08 7.30 6.10 P M 4.00 2.25 9.25 7^05 4.20 A M UTAH CENTRAL R. R. SOUTHWARD - NORTHWARD DAILY. 0) STATIONS- DAILY. Pass'ngr Pass'ngr § Pass'ngr Pass'ngr 6.20 P M 9.40 A M Lv. Ogden..Ar 9.00 A M 5.40 P M 7.10 10.31 16 . ..Kays villa . . 8.12 4.52 7.31 10.. 52 21 . ,Farmington . 7.50 4.33 7.44 11.04 26 ..Centreville. . 7.33 4.16 7.53 11.13 28 Wood's Cros'g 7.25 4.08 8.20 P M 11.40 A M 37 Ar.S'ltL'k.Lv 7.00 A M 3.40 P M J8S" At Salt Lake City connection is made with the Utah Southern Railroad for "Frisco, Silver Reef (or Leeds) and all points in Southern Utah, Southeastern Nevada and Northern Arizona. OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 267 CENTRAL PACIFIC SALT LAKE DIV. A. G. FelI/, Divinion Supt., Ogden, Utah. + Day Telegraph. t Day and Nigh t Telegraph. * Meals. WEST FKOM OMAHA. Daily Einigr'nt 2.00*PM 2.40 2.05 3.40 4.10 4.. 55 6.00 7.10 7.55 8.25 9.00 9.30 10.40 11.30 12.25 A M 2.30 3.25 4.25 5.15 6.20 7.15 8.05 8.35 9.00 9.30 9.45 10.15 Daily Ex Ist &2d Class. 00* PM 23 42 03 23 45 30 59 25 42 58 15 00 30 01 A M 35 00 35 10 55 30 03 22 37 55 .02 .20 A M o » •So 1032 1041 1048 1056 1064 1075 1084 1092 1101 1108 1116 1123 1135 1145 1159 1166 1179 1188 1198 1207 1214 1224 1230 1235 1241 1244 1250 SACRAMENTO TIME. STATIONS. t Ogden Av Bonneville Brighaui tCorinne Quarry ...tBlue Creek . . .; Promontory Rozel Lake . Monument Point Seco tKelton Ombey Matlin JTerrace Bovine Lucin tTecoma Montello Loray .• JToano Pequop + Otego . . .Independence Moors Cedar :Wells Lv w 4340 4251 4240 4229 4271 4379 4905 4588 4223 4226 4224 4222 4310 4630 4619 4346 4494 4812 4999 5555 5970 6183 61.53 6004 6118 5628 EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. Daily Ex 1st &2d Class. 8.30* AM 8.07 7.50 7.30 7.12 0.50 0.15 5.45 5.15 5.01 4.45 4.30 4.05 3.40 3.00 2.30 2.05 1..S5 1.08 12.40 12.15 A M 11.50 11.33 11.15 10.. 55 10.45 10.20 P M Daily Emigr'nt 8.00 A M 7.20 6.55 6.10 5.40 5.00 3.40 2.55 2.05 1.25 12.45 12.05 AM 10.40 9.55 8.30 7.35 6.55 6.10 5.25 4.40 4.05 3.20 2.55 2.25 1.50 1.35 1.00 P M HUMBOLDT DIVISION. G. W. CODDINGTON, Division Sunt .Cablin, Nev. 12.30 p M 1.05 1.30 2.10 2.32 3.10 3.25 4.15 4.25 5.55 6.50 8.10 8.. 50 9.25 ,0.05 |0.55 ^1.55 l2.15 AM J2..55 n.30 1.33 3.30 4.13 4.40 A M 5.30 A M 5.45 5.. 55 6.11 G.20 G.38 6.47 7.14 7.34 8.18 8.46 9.20 9.41 10.00 10.21 10.45 11.11 11.22 11.37 11.52 12.20 P M 12.45 1.08 1.20 125J 1238 1263 1270 1278 1283 1287 1298 1307 1319 1330 1339 Lv tWells Ar 26-.8 2483 5400 5340 10.10 p M 9.50 9.40 9.25 9.16 8.:. 7 8.47 8.20 7.40 7.16 6.40 6.15 5.55 5.36 5.16 4.54 4.30 4.21 4.08 3.55 3.30 3.03 2.40 2.30 P M 12. 3J P M 11.50 11.25 10.45 10.25 9.50 9.35 8.40 7.54 7.00 5.20 4.40 3.45 3.05 2.20 1.30 12.35 12.15 A M 11.45 11.15 10.25 9.35 8.55 8.30 P M Tulasco Deeth tHalleck 5227 5204 5135 5065 4981 4903 4840 4766 4690 4636 4548 4508 4506 4505 4505 4421 4375 4387 4315 Peko *Elko iCarlin 1349 1358 1368 1379 1390 1395 1403 1410 1423 1436 1445 1451 Cluro tBattle Mountain Piute Iron Point Tule Ar. . . . JWinnemucca Lv' TRUCKEE DIVISION. Frank Free, Division Supt Wadswqrth, Nev. 5.30 A M 6.15 6.55 7.25 8.15 9.00 10.10 1.30 P M 1451 1.55 1461 2.18 1471 2.32 1478 2.55 1491 3.42 1502 4.03 1513 Lv Winnemueca Ar Rose Creek ..... Raspberry tMill Creek tHumboldt +Rye Patch tOreana 4315] 2.20 P M 4331 1.55 4322 1..33 43.7 1.16 4228 12.. 50 4233 12.05 4256111.40 P M 7.35 0.50 6.08 5.35 4.45 3.42 2.55 P M •268 OVERLAND TIME TABLE. CENTRAL PACIFIC TRUCKEE DIV. COnSTTIlTTJEID. t Day telegraph. I Day aud night telegraph. Meals. "WEST FBOM OMAHA. 3 J SACEAMENTO TIME. a EAST FBOM CALIFORNIA. Daily Emigr'nt & Freight Daily Express lst&2dc's STATIOXS. 3 Daily Expi-ess lst&2dc's Daily Emigr'nt & Freight 11.10 A M 11.55 12.35 P M 1.35 2.10 2.40 3.35 4.. 30 5.30 6.00 6.30 7.2.5 8.. 50 9.40 9.55 10.30 10.50 11.20 11.30 11.55 12.10 A M 4.28 P M 4.45 5.03 5.30 5.50 6.05 6.30 6.44 7.00 7.17 7.35 8.02 8.50 9.20 9.25 9.48 10.03 10.25 10.30 10.47 10.55 P M 1524 1533 1540 1552 15.59 1567 1577 1584 1586 1593 1601 1613 1622 1631 1632 1639 1641 1647 1649 1652 1655 tLovelocks Granite Point f Brown's White Plains Mirage tHot Springs 3977 11.10 3917 10.50 3925 10.30 3893 10.00 4199 9.43 4070 9.27 4017! 9-00 41.55 i 8.46 4077; 8.30 41301 8.10 4263; 7.51 4403: 7.20 45071 6.30 4927i 6.00 1.50 1.10 12.35 P M 11.35 11.00 10.20 9.25 8.55 8.00 7.30 7.00 6.10 4.55 4.15 4.10 3.45 3.30 3.05 2.58 2.42 2.30 Two Mile Station t Wadsworth Salvia Clark's Vista ;Eeno tVerdi. 5010 5216 5340 5533 5610 5720 5845 5.56 5.40 5.30 5.13 5.09 4.57 4.50 A M Mystic +Boca tProsser Creek Proctors Ar jTruckee Lv SACRAMENTO DIVISION J. B. Wbight, Div. Supt Sacramento. 1.55 A 2.45 3.45 4.00 4.20 4.40 5.00 5.45 6.30 7.00 7.35 7.45 8.00 8.30 9.00 9.25 9.35 9.55 10.10 10.. 55 11.25 11.45 12.05 12.35 P 1.00 1.20 1.50 2.10 2.30 P 11.05 P : 11.30 12.08 A : 12.16 12 27 12.41 12.53 1.25 2.00 2.20 2.40 2.50 3.00 3.25 3.45 3.57 4.05 4.18 4.30 4.55 3.15 5.27 5.37 5.55 6.05 6.15 6.33 6.45 6.55 A 1655 1662 1671 1673 1675 1679 1683 1691 1697 1702 1706 1708 1710 1617 1721 1724 162 1728 1732 17 9 1744 1747 1730 1752 1757 1760 1767 1771 1775 JTruckee btroug's Canyon t Summit Soda Springs Cascade Tamarack JCisco ;Emigrant Gap ;Blue Canyon Sandy Run tAlta Dutch Flat +GoUi Run C. H. Mills f Colfax Lauder N. E. Mills Apijlegate Clipper Gap t Auburn f New Castle Penryn Pino tRocklin t Junction Antelope Arcade tA. BI. Bridge Ar Sacramento Lv 5845 6780 7017 6519 6i91 5939 5229 4677 4154 3612jl2, 3403 12 3206 12 2691 ill 242111 ....111 2280 1 10 2000 10 1759 10 1362 10 969 40 15 45 35 23 05 50 12 25 02 40 30 20 A 57 15 * 05 57 47 38 15 55 37 25 55 42 30 15 04 55 P 40 00 05 A M 40 25 05 45 55 25 35 25 55 35 55 20 30 10 45 25 40 00 25 05 P M 00 30 05 35 .15 00 A M Note.— There are two routes south from Sacramento. Passengers for Stockton, Lcs Angeles Southern California and intermediate points will take the route described on page 173. See Western Division time table, further on. Those for Pan Francisco du-ect, take route described on page 183— New Short Line. Time table on next page. OVEKLANB TIME TABLE. 269- CENTRAL PACIFIC SHORT LINE via BENICIA. J. B. WKi&aT, Division Siipt., Sacbamento. * Trains stoiD on Signal. § Trains ■will not stop. f Telegraph. J Meals. WEST FROM OMAHA. 5° SAN FBANCISCO TIME. STATIOXS. 6 EAST FROM SAN FRAN'SCO Daily Emigr'nt & Fre'ght Daily Ex 1st & 2d Class. Daily Ex 1st & 2d Class. Daily Emigr'nt & Freight 4.00 p M 4.30 4.40 5.05 5.20 5.35 6.20 6.45 7.15 7.45 8.05 8.20 8.25 8.30 P M 7.20 A M 7.86 § 7.45 7.55 * 8.05 8.13 8.25 8.35 * 8 50 9.03 * 9.16 * 9.20 9.28 9.30 A M 1776 1784 1789 1793 1797 1800 1805 1809 1816 1821 1826 1830 1831 183", liv f Sacramento Ar 30 28 25 24 25 26 26 24 24 24 26 22 7.30 P M 7.12 § 7.00 6.50 6.40 6.31 6.20 6.11 5.55 5.44 5.33 5.19 * 0.40 A M 6.00 5.30 5.15 4.55 4.40 4.18 4.00 3.30 3.10 2.53 2.38 2.34 Cannon Teal 10 5.17 § 10 5.15 P M 2.30 A M Steam Ferry-Boat ** Solano" Across Straits of Carquinez. A. D. Wilder, Division Supt., Oakland Wharf. 9.40 9.52 9.55 10.03 10.15 10.30 10.47 10.04 11.15 11.22 11.30 11.45 11.55 6.05 9.50 9.56 9.58 10.04 10.11 10.20 10.. 30 10.40 10.46 10.49 10.53 11.00 11.10 11.35 1833 tPort Costa 1836 tValona 1837 tVallejo Junction. 1839 Tormey 1841 tPinole 1845 Sobrante 1848 +San Pablo 1852 Stege 1853 Point Isabel 1854 Highland 1855 +Delaware St... 1857 tStock Yards 1859 +Oaklaud 16th St. . I860' West Oakland. . . 1862 tOakland Wharf.. 1865 + San Francisco . . . 4.55 5 1 40 1.23 1.21 1.09 12.55 12.36 12.18 A M 11.59 4.47 § ■ 4.45 4.40 ? 4.35 § 4.29 § 1 4.23 § 4.15 § 4.10 § 11.47 11.40 11.30 11.10 11.00 4.08 § 4.04 § 1 4.00 3.. 50 1 3.30 5.30 P M Old Overlaiitl Route from Sacramento via Stockton . Seepage 173. .Western Div. 11.50 A M,1776]Lv tSacramento Ar 12.05 p M 1780 jBrighton 12.13 12.20 12.33 * 12.48 1.00 1.06 1.20 * 1.35 1.55 t 17841 Florin. 1791' +Elk Grove.. 1794' McConnell's. 1802 :Galt 1807 1 Acampo . . . 1810 +Lodi 1817 Castle 1823 ^Stockton.. 1832 tLathrop. 2.10 p M 1.55 1.46 1.34 1.26 * 1.12 1.00 12.50 12.33 * 12.21 p M 25111.59 Connect at Lathrop for the South. See pages 209 and 270. 2 . 02 * 1835; Sau Joaquin Bridge 2.14 18401 Banta 11.35 11.43 * 58 12.51 1 2.20 1843i tTracy Connect at Tracy for San Francisco via Martinez. See pages 178 xnd 270. 2.25 2.41 3.02 * 3.24 3.40 8.55 11845 Ellis. 18.50 Medway. . . 18.58 tAltamont.. 1 1867 f Livermore . 1873 f.Pleasanton. 1878 Sunol.... 4.15 P Mtl884 +Niles. 76 11.25 * 357 11.09 740 10.47 485 10.25 351 10.12 170 10.00 86 9.40 A M Connect at Niles for Sau Jose and Santa Clara Valleys. See page 180. 270 OVERLAND TIME TABLE. CENTRAL PACIFIC WESTERN DIVISION. C O 3Sr T I 3Sr TJ E ID . * Trains stop only on Signal. f Telegraph. § Trains will not stop. t Meals. WEST FROM OMAHA. 1=^ SAK FRANCISCO TIME. < EAST FROM SAN FRA'CIS'O Daily Express lst&2dc's STATIONS, Daily E.xi^ress lst&2dc's 5.27 4.44 4.50 4.57 5.08 1887 1893 1896 1899 1903 1905 1907 1909 1911 1914 Decota tHaward's 71 48 32 48 20 12 13 12 10 9.33 9.18 9.12 9.06 8.56 8.50 8.40 8.34 8.20 8.00 A M .... . fSan Leanclro 5 15 +East Oakland tOakland tWest Oakland {Oakland Wharf Ar fSau Francisco Lv 5.24 5.30 5.43 6.05 P M TOWARDS SUNRISE— (See page '209. CENTRAL PACIFIC WESTERN DIV. Northern Railway and San Pablo and Tulare Railroad. FROM SAN FRANCISCO. Daily Emigr'nt & Freight 4.30"p^ Daily Express lsti!v:2dc's 7.15 7.25 7.46 8.03 8.15 8.30 8.55 9.15 9.30 9.46 10.00 10.33 10.53 11.30 11.59 12.43 A M 1.15 1.30 2.15 9.30 A M 9.50 10.00 10.06 § 10.20 * 10.30 10.40 * 10.49 * 11.04 11.13 11.22 11.30 * 11.38 * 11.58 12.10 P M 12.28 12.38 12.56 1.10 1.10 * 1.35 1 SAN FRANCISCO TIME. STATIOXS. Lv. . . . + San Francisco. . . .{Oakland Wharf.. ,+Oaklaud (IGth St) + Stock Yards. . . . Stege tSan Pablo Sobraute , f Pinole , . .tVallejo Junction. iPort Costa tMartinez lAvon , iBay Point tCornwall tAntiochj , , tBreutwood IByron fBethany.... , f Tracy fBauta fLathrop , TOWARDS SANFKA'CISCO. Daily Emigr'nt & Freight 6.05 A M 4.45 4.34 4.10 3.53 3.38 3.24 3.02 2.45 2.29 2.13 1.59 1.24 1.03 12.25 A M 11.59 11.10 10.33 10.15 9.30 CENTRAL PACIFIC VISALIA DIV W. W. Prugh, Ass. Div. Supt. 3.15 A M 3.41 4.02 , 4.16 4.47 5.09 5.48 0.45 7.20 8.20 9.05 9.32 10.15 ilO.46 11.00 ill. 50 '12.35 P M I 1.15 2.03 2.38 3.05 I 3.50 P M 2.00 P M 94 2.14 * 99 2.26 * 104 2.34 * 107 2.. 52 114 3.02 * 118 3.24 127 3.49 * 137 4.00 144 4.25 151 4.55 161 5.10 * 168 5.35 177' 5.. 55 185 6.27 187 0.46 * 196 7.07 20() 7.28 * 216 7.51 226 8.08 234 8.22 240 8.45 P M 251 Lv Lathrop Ar Morrano Ripou Salida tModesto Ceres ITurlock Chessey Atwater fMerced tAthlor.e Minturn Berenda fMadera f Barden Sycamore tFresno Fowler t Kingsbnrg Cross Creek tGoshen Lv fTulare Ar IZl ,35 A ,23 * ,12 * .05 * ,45 .38 * .18 .54 * .38 .55 t .38 .19 * .58 .43 .35 .16 * .55 .35 * .13 .55 .43 .20 A 8.00 : 7.35 7.14 7.00 6.28 6.06 5.25 4.38 4.06 3.20 2.30 2.00 1.17 12.45 12.32 11.50 11.07 10.24 9.36 9.00 8.33 7.45 OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 271 SOUTHERN PACIFIC TULARA DIV. + Telegraph. * Trains stop only on signal. § Trains will not stop. I Meals. FEOM SAN FBANCISCO. Daily Emigi-tit & Freight 4.30 P M .5.23 0.23 7.05 8.04 8.45 10.00 11.17 12.01 A M 1.05 1.45 2.39 3.15 4.00 4.54 6.00 Daily Express lst&2dc's 8.50 P M 9.11 9.35 9.51 * 10.14 * 10.30 10.55 11.17 11.35 11.59 12.40 A M 1.23 1.52 * 2.30 2.57 * 3.30 A M X o3 Qm 251 261 273 281 293 301 314 321 329 336 341 349 355 361 370 381 SAN FRANCISCO TIME. STATIONS. Lv tTulare Ar Tipton Alila +Delauo IPoso Lerdo t Sumner Wade Pampa tCaliente Bealville + Keene Girara . . .tTehachapia Summit... Cameron Ar tMojava Lv TOWARDS SAN FBA'CISCO. Daily Express lst&2dc's 313 415 1290 3964 2757 4.15 A M 3.. 52 3.27 * 3.10 2.45 2.28 * 2.03 1.40 1.30 * 1.05 12.40 12.05 A M 11.40 * 11.10 10.39 * 10.00 Daily Emigr'nt & Freight 7.15 A M 6.23 5.24 4.43 3.45 3.03 2.03 *12.45am 11.35 10.40 10.04 9.13 8.40 8.00 7.03 6.00 P M LOS ANGELES DIVISION. E. E. Hewitt, Asst. Swpt Los Angeles. 7.00 A M 7.50 * 8.30 9.30 * 10.00 * 10.30 * 10.50 11.55 12.50 p M 1.15 * 1.45 2.35 * 3.10 5.30 6.00 6.10 6.15 6.35 7.10 7.25 8.00 9.00 10.20 11.15 12.01 12.30 1.00 1.35 2.05 3.00 3.45 4.40 5.55 6.45 8.05 8.30 8.52 9.35 10.25 10.50 11.15 11.30 12. oi AM* 3.35 A M 4.05 * 4.30 5.10 * 5.25 * 5.40 * 5.50 6.10 * 6.40 6.55 * 7.10 7.32 * 7.55 A M 8.25 X 55 00 15 37 47 10 45 10 * 45 15 p M 37 ,50 * 10 * ,28 * ,50 * ,15 * ,45 ,20 45 ,25 * 40 * ,00 * 25 * 55 * 15 * ,30 ,40 ,00 t Lv tMojava Ar Sand Creek f Lancaster Alpine Vincent Acton tRavena Lang tNewhall S. F. Tunnel +San Fernando SeiJulveda Ar +Los Angeles Lv Lv Los Angeles Ar San Gabriel I^Savanna tMoute Puente tSpadra tPomona Cucamonga tColton Mound City El Casco San Gorgonio Banning Cabazon White Water Seven Palms Dry Camp Indio I Walters ^ ^ +Do3 Palmas }°a Frink's Sjjring.. I j^'^ Flowering Well. J Tortuga Mammoth Tank Mesquite Cactus Oailby Pilot Knob El Rio Ar fYuma Lv 2751 2315 2350 2823 3211 2350 1681 1152 1469 1066 461 265 ¥65 400 260 323 706 856 952 965 1055 1874 2592 1779 1120 584 9. 85 p M 9.12 * 8.45 8.20 * 8.08 * 7.50 * 7.35 7.10 * 6.40 0.25 * 6.03 5.. 35 * 5.15 P M .45 : .23 .18 .15 .00 .36 .28 .05 .00 I .50 .17 ..55 ..37 .17 * ..50 * .25 * ..55 * .33 * .00 .15 ..50 * .05 ..50 * .35 * .05 * .30 * .10 * .55 •= .45 .30AMJ 4.45 P M 3.45 * 3.00 2.10 * 1.45 * 1.05 * 12.43 P M 11.. 55 10.55 10.25 10.00 9.15 * 8.45 A M 4.15 A M 3.40 3.30 3.25 3.00 * 2.20 2.05 1..30 * 12.15 L2.01 AM* LI. 15 L0.25 * 9. .50 * 9.20 * 8.35 * 8.00 * 7.15 * 0.35 5.45 ■ 4.25 3.45 2.25 * 2.00 * 1.40 * 1.00 * 12.02 PM* LI. 40 11.15 11.00 L0.30 A M 272 OVERLAND TIME TABLE. SOUTHERN PACIFIC GILA AND TUCSON DIV. A. A. Bean, Asst. Supt , Tucson. I Meals. * Trains stop on signal. , Telegraph. FROM SAN FBANCISCO. Daily Daily Em^^t ,^^- 5.00 pm: 6.03 * 7.11 * 7. .55 * 9.0 * 9.31 * 10.30 11.18 * 11.42 * 12.53 A M 2.00 3.15 * 3.. 57 4.40 5.. 50 7.20 * 8.10 8.50 * 9.30 * 10.30 11.28 * 12.30 P M 2.00 pm; 3.25 * 4.38 5.30 6.15 8.20 * 9.05 9.55 10.57 11.45 * I 1.15 AM (1.45 6.12 6.57 * 7.30 * 8.18 8. .53 * 9.40 * 10.15 A M lst&2cle's 7.30 pm; 8.03 * 6.42 * 9.05 * 9.43 * 10.00 * 10.30 10.52 * 11.03 * 11.37 * 12.15 A M 12.39 * 1.03 * 1.25 * 1.47 2.23 2.50 3.13 * 3.36 * 4.10 * 4.50 * 5.30 A M 0.00 am; C.46 * 7.29 7. .58 * 8.25 8. .55 * 9.25 * 9. .56 * 10.30 10.. 55 I 11.45 (■12.10pm 12.52 1.32 * 2.12 2^25 2.50 * 3.15 * 3.46 * 4.10 * 4.38 * 5.00 pm; as O d Si Sh m a 730 744 760 770 787 793 806 815 820 834 850 859 869 878 887 902 913 922 931 945 961 978 978 993 1006 1015 1024 1034 1043 1053 1064 1072 1088 1103 1118 1133 1137 1148 1157 1169 1178 1189 1197 SAN FBANCISCO TIME. STATIONS. Ar. Lv. +Yuma Ar Gila City Adonde Tacna .Mohawk Summit... Texas Hill Aztec Stanwi.K Sentinel . . Painted Bock Gila Bend Bosque Estrella Montezuma tMaricopa . .Sweet Water . . . 1 Casa Grande Toltec Picacho Bed Bock BiUito ;Tiicson liV ;Tucson Ar Papago tPantano Mescal tBenson Ochoa .Dragoon Summit... Cachise +Wilcox ..Bailroad Pass. .Bowie Ar. .fSan Simon . .Steins Pass . . .Pyramid .+Lordsburgh Lisbon Separ Wilna Gage Tunis . ..;Deming Lv TOWABD SAN FBANCISCO Daily Express lst&2dc's 5.00; am 4.27 3.48 * 3.24 * 2.45 * 2.32 * 2.00 * 1.37 * 4.27 * 12.53 12.15 A M 11.50 * 11 25 * 11.00 * 10.35 9. .55 * 9.25 9 00 * 8.35 * 7.57 7.15 * 6. .30 PM 6.001PM 5.15 * 4.38 4.10 * 3.45 3.16 * 2.48 * 2.19 *+ 1.46 ; 1 ''2 * J 12.35 I 12.10pm 11.25 10.43 * 10.00 * 9.48 9.18 * 8.53 * 8.18 7.54 * 7.22 * 7.00; AM Daily Emigr'nt 5.45 A M 4.27 2.55 * 1.55 * 12.22* AM 11.45 * 10.30 9.40 * 9.17 * 8.05 * 6.15 5.30 * 4.48 * 4.05 * 3.25 2.10 * 1.15 12.27*PM 11.40 * 10.30 8.50 * 7.00 A M 5.00 A M 3.57 * 3.00 2.20 12.15 11.27 * 10.44 * 9.55 9.03 8.23 * J 7.05 I 6.35 5.18 4.05 * 3.00 * 2.25 1.40 * 1.00 * ]2.12*PM 11.35 * 10.48 * 10.15 A M Trains xoest of Deming run on San Francisco time. Those east of Doming on Jefferson City (Mo.) time, which is tivo hours faster than San Francisco time. SOUTHERN PACIFIC RIO GRANDE DIV. James Campbell, Asst. Su2)t., El Paso. 12 30 pm; 1 15 2 15 * 3 10 * 4 00 * 4 40 1! 5 30 * 6 10 * 6 30 P M 7.45 pm; 1197 8.08 * 1208 8.42 * 1223 9.12 * 1236 9.40 * 1249 10.01 * 1258 10.30 * 1271 11.00 * 1281 11.15 P M 1285 Lv. .tDeraing Ar . . . Zuni . Cambray . . .Aden . . . Afton . . Lanark . .Strauss . .Bogers .lEl Paso Lv 232.2 221.2 206.2 192.8 180.7 171.0 158.5 148.5 144.0 8.00; 7.35 7.00 6.30 0.02 5.40 5.10 4.43 4.30 OO; PM 15 12* PM 15 * 22 * 40 * 48 * 05 * 45; AM OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 273 ATCHISON, TOPEKA & SANTA FE RAILROAD, DEMING TO KANSAS CITY CO 1149 1110 1097 1021 994 938 918 902 STATIONS. t Meals. a p > KANSAS CITY TO DEMING. • Emigr'nt Express Express Emigr'nt 12.30 P M 3.20 5.00 11.45 1.32 A M 5.12 7.15 8.24 8.00 P M 9.34 10.05 1.15 A M 2.25 4.50 5.40 6.19 Iiv Deniiiig Ar 7.45 AM-t 5.38 4.43 1.15 12.10 A M 9.52 9.05 8.26 7.00 A M 3.45 2.30 8.00 5.00 12.08 P M 10.30 A M 8.24 San Marcial 4665 4914 5006 5104 Albuquerque Bernalillo 10 03 1.00 P M 2.10 8.25 11.00 12.40 A M 7.05 7.10 9.00 + 10.07 1.25 p M 2.. 50 3.50 6.42 881 851 841 786 758 741 681 5329! 7.35 65311 6.05 f 75.37 4.50 6452 14.'; + 7.10 4.47 3.20 8.45 6.05 4.40 P M 11.35 A M 12.01 P M n ns A AT Wagon Mound Otero 6247 ....j 8.32 8.00 11.50 A M 6.50 P M 8.20 8.40 P M 12.45 A M 7.20 -t 9.40 P M 2.00 A M 2.55 3.05 5.35 076 652 571 552 548 497 484 458 425 418 406 387 369 333 325 319 308 299 286 276 205 253 245 66881 8.20 + 6034' ^ ^ri 11.10 8.00 12.30 A M 10.35 10.16 6.50 1.00 11 a.=; A M West Las Animas Las Animas Granada 39.59 11.30 3468 8.45 1.45 3.45 6.18 7.10 8.10 9.30 11.00 A M 2.10 P M 2.40 3.05 3.50 4.28 5.22 6.05 6.50 7.40 8.10 P M 6.30 t 7.43 9.10 9.25 9.57 10.43 11.40 A M 1.15 p M 1.35 1.52 2.40 + 3.04 3.40 4.08 4.36 5.10 5.30 P M Lv Coolidge Ar 3418 « nfi + 5.40 3.28 1.00 12.25 P M 11.05 A M 9.30 7.40 4.00 3.22 2.45 1.47 1.02 A M 11.50 P M 11.03 10.18 9.25 8.50 P M 7.40 6.35 5.40 4.55 4.10 3.20 2.30 12.25 P M 11.40 A M 11.00 9.35 8.50 8.15 7.53 7.37 6.30 A M 6 35 .5 19. . Sherlock ' 2925 Garden City ....| 4.55 2800 4.25 26.55 3.37 2499 2.. 50 2207, 1 T^ Dodge City 1.10 12.45 Garfield 2018 Pawnee Hock 1986 11.40 A M 18.59 11.08 1738 10.45 1679 11.23 1494 9.. 56 ....' 9.40 A M 1482 9.07 1410 8.30 1.320 8.07 1433 7.40 1432 7.15 1256 6.53 1277 6.30 t 1183 !'^ n.'^ Ar Nickerson Lv 9.15 10.35 11.25 P M 12.15 A M 1.00 2.00 3.00 5.05 5.48 7.00 8.00 8.50 9.30 9.55 10.15 11.20 A M 6.00 6.35 6.58 7.38 7.55 8.20 9.10 t 10.12 10.40 11.10 11.59 p M 12.29 A M 12.52 1.05 1.15 2.00 A M "234 220 211 201 194 184 173 148 1.37 128 113 101 93 88 84 67 Walton 4.35 a in 1101 1074 3.20 1082 2.. 53 1050 9 33 2.20 9 in 1081 Ar Topeka Lv 9O4I 1.15 A M 11.45 A M 12.47 P M 1.30 4.38 P M 2.25 A M 3.04 3.30 5.30 A M 67 51 40 Lv Topeka Ar 904 ]0. r,^ ■ 6.00 A M 4.35 3.30 12.05 A M ] 2.17 A M 1.50 0.00 P M ] Ar Kansas City.... Lv Lv Topeka Ar Ar Atchison Lv 765 1 2.20 A M 5.10 A M 51 904 12.50 A m| 803 10.25 P mI * Junction for Santa Fe, 1 8 miles distant. ** Junction f 3r Pueblo, Denver and Colorado. A., T. & S. F. R. R. Trains are run by JeSerson time, being 2 hours faster than San Fran'co time* 274 OVEKLAND TIME TABLE. TEXAS PACIFIC LliVE. FROM ST. LOUIS. 02 O s ST. LOUIS TIME. s FROM SAN FRANCISCO. Exxaress • STATIOXS. Express , 9.00 A M 9.26 10.45 12.17 P M 1.15 4.27 8.29 12.15 A M 2.03 i 75 89 166 262 345 388 Lv. St. Louis Caroudelet 2645 2039 2603 2560 2556 2479 0.00 P M 5.20 4.00 2.40 1..37 P M 10 ni>. Desoto Bismhrck Arcadia Poplar Blnff 2383 j 5.37 2300 1.35 A M 2257'll.49 P-M Little Hock Ar.. . . ^i . . .Malvern 4.30 P M 413 Lv. Hot Si)rings Ar 2282| 3.50 A M 2.58 A M 4.18 G.50 A M 410 442 490 Lv. Ai-kadelphia Prescott 2235 10.53 P M 2030 9.32 2155 7.00 P M Ar.. Texarkana 7.50 A M 10.52 10.40 1.10 P M 2.43 3.55 5.45 0.33 8.40 10.10 11.. 55 12.55 A M 3.25 3.50 5.05 0.12 7.. 58 9.11 11.15 12.28 P M 5.02 5.50 9.20 10.. 50 3.30 A M 490 548 564 587 010 033 063 679 711 743 774 798 848 858 883 903 945 972 1012 1032 1143 1163 Lv.. Texarkana .Tefferson .... 2155 209 2080 2057 2034 2011 1981 1905 1933 1901 1870 1846 1790 0.30 P M 3.37 2.50 11.30 12.13 P M 11.05 9.30 8.47 6.50 5.15 3.36 2.30 A M 11. .50 Marshall Long view Big Saudv Will's Poiut Terrell Dallas Ft. Worth Eastland Cisco 17SG'11.25 1761 10.10 Bau-d .»■ Abilene 1741 1699 1672 1032 9.15 7.25 6.13 4.10 Big Springs 1612 3.05 P M 1.5U1 10.30 Tovn h 1482 1412 1377 1286 9.40 6.05 4.30 12.10 A M T>^'^ 1267 1359 Sierra Blanca El Paso 4.30 A M 5.10 8.00 13.59 1373 1447 El Paso 1286 1272 1198 ii.i'5J,p.:m 10.30 7.45 P M Ar.'. Strauss Deniing 7.00 9.48 11.25 3.45 p M 1447 1507 1541 1620 1666 Lv. Ai". Deming Lordsburg Sau Simon Benson Tucson 1198 113 1104 1025 979 5.00 P M 2 . 25 12.52 P M 8.25 6.00 A M 0.00 P M 6.30 p M 10.35 1666 1757 Lv. Ar.". Tucson Maricopa Yuma 979 888 731 5.30 A M 1.47 A M 7.30 P M 5.00 A M 1914 5.30 A M 9.15 12.55 p M 1.50 2.25 3. 33 4.23 4.45 1914 2002 2082 2101 2105 2133 Lv. 731 643 563 7.00 P M 3.20 12.15 p M Dor Palmnq .. .... Mound City 544!n.l0 Colton 540 512 492 483 11.00 9.37 8.48 8.25 P M 2153 2162 Ar.". Los Angeles 2162 I.v Los Augeles 483 382 315 241 186 7.55 A M 3.35 A M 11 . 00 8.22 6 90 10.00 2.03 A M 4.43 6.43 10 50 22631 2330 2404 24.59 2550 Sumner Ar".. Lathroji San Fraucisco 051 2.00 p M 2.35 P M 2645 9 30 A M ::;;;;:;::i;; OVERLAND TIME T.\BLE. 275 GALVESTON, H AKKISBURG & SAN ANTONIO— EL PASO I>IV. James CAMPBELii, Asst. Superintendent, El Paso. f Telegraph. * Trains stop only on signal. § Trains -will not stop. t Meals. FROM SAN FRANCISCO. Daily | Daily Emigrant; Express & Freight lst&2dc's ±1:2 11.40 P M 128.3 12.27 AM i:;u7 1.02 * 1323 1.20 * 331 1.40 1339 3.15 1372 3.35 1377 SAN FBANCISCO TIME. STATIONS. Lv +ElPaso Ar tSiiu Elizario Kio Grande Porter f Camp Rice Ethoieu Ar. . . . 'Sierra Blanoa Lv TOWARD SAN FRANCISCO. Daily Express lstifc2dc's 3.50 3.05 2.23 2.08 1.40 11.35 11.20 A M A M Daily Emigrant & Freight At Sierra Blanca the Texas & Pacific comes in from the East. 5.17 1413, Haskell 0.50 1145 Valentine 9.00 1480 +Marfa 10 . 30 1507 Mnrphy sville . . . 11 .57 1539 tMarathon 12.40 P M 15.55 tHaymond 1.15 1567 IMaxon Springs. 3.15 PMl-oOOlAr Sanderson — ..Lv 9.30 7.55 5 . 55 4.30 2.55 2.10 1.15 11.25 SAN ANTONIO DIVISION. 3.3U P M 4.20 4.43 6.05 1.303 Lv. 1614; ... 1620' .... 1643 .... Sanderson .Ar 11 00 A M 1 10.27 10.06 8.57 6.. 30 4.18 3.25 AM tDryden iLozier 1 11 54 T^siJ, 12.58 A M 1747 Ar. tDelRio .Lv 17i7 ^ .V Ar 3.15 AM 1.12 12.07 AM 10.08 p M 9.07 7.. 59 7.00 6.40 P M 2.53 1784 .... 4.02 1808 .... 5.59 11846 .... 7 05 iiSRT . . tSpofford .Juno . . tCline .. . . S.22 9.40 10.00 A M 11.00 AM 1892 .... 1913 .... 1917 Ar. 1917 Lv7 +Lacote .1. & G. N. Crossing. San Antonio tSan Antonio tHouston 777 Vermillion ville . . . .Lv .Ar .Lv '.Lv 1 6.00 P 11 1 10.10 P M 8.30 AM 2133 Ar. 2350 [ ArT 6.45 A M 7.10 PM '. . 2J94;Ai-.. New Orleans .LVI....I 1 1 The "li-.st. ; iie" connecting San Francisco and New Orleans, was driven January 12th, Ifr' The line ii > '.cnown as the "Sunset Route." At the i.r- f going to press the time tables ol the line east from San Antonio had not hi received, 1 will appear in future editions. Her .D Printing and Publishing Hoi /) • ^/^iid^^^. Ppir^tiepg and Blanl\ BqoI^ Mar^ufaGfeupep^, Herald Building-, Fifteentli Street, Henry Gil Miller d- B ENGRA' IKo, PHINJ, /;■'