,LIBRi\RY OF CONGRESS.! i , # #4l«'g- ■•■■■-: lopnns'"* t.° I JUMTED STATES OF AMf>cICA. | THE CUTTERS' CENTEIUL GDIDE; IN THE BY ^XJ&USTUS KOCH. SELF-EEHeLATING SYSTEM for all tie TARIOOS FOBIS Of tlie HOIAN BOD!. i^y^ ' UXt/^^L -L tvv J J L ^ ^^ ■ 1 m c? ^ ^ ^4 1 :5 ic- N ^ s L^ F ^J^ ■r ]S~ §i ££ S 6 5 ^5 L s ? Lt g_j? s; : li » po S! !? S i'JW^ -. k 5 - h 1 s s ? £ r? s b- * ^ ^ 3> L. -i <-i rfi ■*■ ^ ^ i*J £ ^ !a ^ 5? ^^^\ A^M^F^S y^ \mi'>F-^S/ ^^x. jaOH Ol^-^S Ht'l'P «"r ^ A......,...tr.l \ ^^ Shoulder Measure Scale No. I v^u^u^iuy r^i'cn / Slw.MmScNoH \ / s.M.s.No.m:\ =^ IS ^5 fe s ? S f \ ^ ^ s V ^ J5 Lo S g ^ "* ess ^ Breast Mea Stale '^ t t t •*. 5s -; <^ ^ L a> -^^ ^» ^ og S5 S SS 1 *S ^ 1 ¥ p g . esa ^ k» |m 1 >o |ev to 5i h 55 5 S '^ sj ^ to ce |-< "S" C4 t\ .b s s :j ^ *■ |n, erience can offer. 1 am well aware of the great undertaking to have published and in- troduced to the Cutting profesi-ion a work like this, being well aware of the fact that there are some critics, and always will be, who, no matter how good a work is, will condemn it before they will give the same a fair trial and find out the real value contained in the same. There is a great number of systems ou the art (if cutting, now in use among the cutters of the United States of America, which, when introduced to the profession, were very highly recommended ; and some of them have proved themselves what their authors claimed them to be ; but, on the other hand, it has been proved also, that there is a great number of the so called systems which do not deserve tiie name of a system at all ; but even iu such cases the practical cutter, who has been duped with such systems, will learn lessons which do him a great deal of good. "While, as we have before stated, a great many systems are used by the profession all over the country, yet, there is room for advancement to bring forth good, scientific points not yet discover- ed ; and, as every truth-loving cutter will admit, we have a great field to labor in and advance step by step to make the cutting profession a com]>!etc success. From this stand point alone to advance in know- ledge, it has been prepared for the Press. This system is the fruit of continual study for nearly twenty years, in which time the author has been a pratical cutter. All this time he has been studying not only to keep up with the times, in the advancement of fashion, but to advance in the iirt of cutting, and from this stand point alone this work is handed to you The work, in the way of engraving and reading matter has been gotten up in a good and reliable manner — having spared no time or money to have it made complete. The diagran^.s show plainly the drafting, and the two figures the measurement, and the reading part explains it iu a manner so clear that the vounsr man who does not understand cut- ting at all. can easily loarn it without other instruc- tion. In regard to the measurement, there is a great advancement, which will make the Garment Cut- ting a complete success. The discovery by the au- thor of this work, of the One Great Measure, called THE Shoulder eegulatok, and with the simple way of applying the same in connection with three other measures, called Front, Back and Waist Balance — which are all taken from One Point, never fail to give the correct shoulder length, at back shoulder point, fob all forms ok THE Human Body, combined with some other reliable measures, will in all cases bring the desired result, to get the form of the body drafted for down on the draft. It may be the case that some authors of systems may use similar measures, as some measnrea have been used for many years, — for instance, balance measures, single and double shoulder measures, &c., have been used by different authors, iu different ways and forms ; but as far as I know I use these measures in a different form from others. The scale accompanying this work, is a division from the shoulder and arm depth measure, which gives the width from A and E lines, as will be seen in diagram A, and is only known to the author of this system. The sleeves, as well as the skirts, are drafted in a new manner, different from any other system, — the sleeves are drafted //•ojw the only reliable points; which will in all eases give th.e correct width, height of sleeve head, and also depth of front seam, and in all cases gives the shape according to the body drafted for. The skirt is also drafted in an easy and sure way ; it gives the exact spring at back skirt, so there are no changes necessary after the draft is made. The sj'stem is in the whole original. In conclusion let me say to all, who are favored to have a copy of this work placed in their hands, lay aside all your prejudices, and follow the instruc- tions given in this work and not mix these instruc- tions up with your ideas, and yon will have success. May tliis be the means to bring forth more new ideas on the art of garment cutting, for the field is large to labor in, to allow more new discoveries in the art of professional cutting. T.4K Author. PuuaHKEEPSLK, N. Y.. March, ]87lade to center of back, as line K on Fig. I shows, 23|- inches, and this gives us the shoulder measure. We next bring tape around the breast as shown by line L, Figure I and II. Bring measure close up iii under arm, across the shoulder blade, and back in under arm to tlie starting [.oint 36 inches (this measure should be snug but not tight). Next bring measure around the waist as line M shows, where the body is the smallest, and is in our measure 33 inches. This completes our meas- urement, standing as follows : 18| Length of waist. 38 Full length of coat. 1\; Back waist measure. 19^ Back balance. 20|- Front balance. 31|^ Full sleeve length. 31 Siioulder regnlator. 27 Arm depth. 23 1- Shoulder measure. 36 Breast. 32 Waist. PLATE II. Diagram A. HOW TO GET THE CONSTRUCTION LINES. Take youi- sipiare and draw a line from A ti.' V, wln'cii i.s ciur construction line, and also square out from A to C or top line. Measure out from A to B, half the width of breast measure, or, in our draft, 18 inches. From B to C j^ of breast measure (on scale No. VI), this gives us the full width of our coat. We next get the width of back, and also width of arm hole, or the distance between lines A and E in front of arm. Tiiis, as every cutter of practice and experience knows, is of great impor- tance to locate line E in the right place, and from this alone we can expect a gootl fitting gar- ment. Take for instance a man with a breast measure of 36 inches, well formed, shoulders well back, breast broad and full, and yuii will find the shoulder measure from one to two intlies smaller than the regular size of 36 breast measure gener- ally rccpiires. In this case it takes less cloth from centre of back to front of arm sye, and more from front of arm sye to front of breast. On the other hand again, take a man with the same breast meas- ure, 36 inches, his arms are more in front, back broad, measure Iiim, and what will the shoulder measure tell you in this case \ It will tell you this : v,-e want more cloth betwecu centre of back and front of arm sye. Your shoulder measure is more, and conserpiently your front or E line conies more in front. In the first case, the customer requires more clotli in front of breast, because he is smaller in tlie back, and in the second case, the customer is larger in the back and smaller in front. Supposing now, you have a system of tlie so called breast measure system which gives the differ- ent points of every customer you measure alike, from centre of back to front of arm sye | of the breast measure, and what will be the result ? lu the first case above stated the coat would be too full ill the back and under the arms, while it would be to small in front of the breast, because the full- ness in the back is needed in front of the breast. In the second case, you will find the back to the front of arm sye too small, and the breast too full, because the fullness in front is needed in back. The arm hole is too small, and yet, when you look at it closely you find there is more or less extra cloth in back under the arms than is needed ; the coat wrinkles under the arms, side body and back. PlateE THE CVTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. Every movement the cnstoiner makes shovvB plainly it is a spoiled garment, which can never be made to give satisla'-tion to tlie enstomer, nor to yonr- self. You may go to work and alter the same, cut out arm sye in front to give more room to the wcarei', bnt yon will lind it is a worse fit afterwards than it was before, and you ask me wliy it is so, or what is the cause which makes it so % By doing so, you change all the other points, and the conse- quence is, it brings the whole coat out of balance. It ma}' by cutting ont the arm sye make tiie coat somewhat easier, bnt it will draw more wrinkles up in front of arm and also across the side body. Then comes wadding in play and it will be stnfted ont in all the ]>laces where the wrinkles are, and by tlie time you are through almost a day's labor is gone, and a bad fitting coat in the bargain. I therefore say, if you want a good and easy fitting coat, it is necessary to have this point line E right- ly located, and this can only be done by actual measurement, to ascertain the amount necessary for the enstomer you are drafting for. We go on now with our draft and show how we get the different points. We have point B ami C at top, we next will get lines D, E and F, and this we get Ijy the scale, which accompanies my system, but before we can do so, we must find out the dif- ference if any, between Shoulder measure and Arm ileptli measure. We take our scale No. IV (which gives the Arm de]3th measure) and mark down trom A to <), 27 as our measure calls for Arm depth, and make a mark. We take Scale No. I, (or Shoulder measure Scale) and measure down from A, 23^ as shoulder Measure calls for, and make a mark also. Now, as yon will find, the difference between these two points is only \ inch, as it will be the case in all proportion sizes, and consequently will give us one-half of the shoulder measure from A. to E. But as above stated, we will meet with cases where tlie Slioulder Measure may be 21 inches, and Arm depth 27 inches, a \ inches, lay tape measure on point G, let it run down from G to centre of E and F lines 13^ inches and make a sweeji. Bring tape on point N at back, let it lun down 13|- inches to centre of E and F lines and make a sweep the same as in front, and where these sweeps ci'oss each other, is the point of bottom line of arm depth. Square out from centre or A line, and if line out in the crossing of the sweep lines come below the mark from Scale No. IV for Arm depth, then mark centre between these points, and draw O line across. Then measure the distance from N to O lines, mark centre for P line ; from F to O line mark centre for Q line j and K lines in centre of Q and P lines. Square these lines across ; measure down from N to Y THE CU TIERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. full length of waist or \%\ inches, and square line V across to X. Draw a lino at O by K and crossing of P and F lines, for :i guide tt' form the back ; also let ruler rest on K and on top at crossing of R and F lines, and draw a line up from R for pitch of back. A1-" draw a line from S to G at top. You will remember the difference between our Arm depth measure and Sliouldtr measure at O is \ inch, bring this \ inch in from centre line at O, bring ruler on this mark, let top rest on P and center line and in this position dr^w a line for hollow of back. Having all tlicse points, add % inch at top of back on line i) for spring, and finish back as Diagram A. In giving tliis I would say, the cutter is en- tirely at liberty to bring tlie drop of shoulder on back higher or lower according tu the taste of the cutter. I have a great objection to any system which gives a fixed point, which cannot be changed with- out danger of spoiling the garment. Yon can suit yourself in regard to the slioulder drop on back, as * 1 and 2 in front regulate tli« whole for its self APPLICATION OF THE SHOULDER KEGULATOK. We next show the application of the Shoulder regulator, which, if correctly taken, will bring iii sdl cases the right length of Shoulrler. E3' looking over our measures we find them as follows: Front Balance, 20| ; Back Balance, l!)i : making in all 40 inches: the Siiuuldcr regulator is ;U inches. Deduct this from 40 inches, leaving a balance of inches. Bring this balance (or 9 inches in thi-s draft,) from top of F line down to T. Square out in front, and this gives us T S line or line for * 1. Measure up from T on F line to top of Shoulder seam on Back, whii-h will give, in this draft, 1 ^- inches. Bring this 1 ! inches on hue T S, from E line out, and this hrirg- ' 1. Then bring tape on crossing of F and O line, and make a sweep from * 1 to * 2. Bring tape on * 2. Let crayon rest on crossing of S, G- and A A lines, and make a sweei> to F line, for Shoulder seam on froiit part. Give spring at top of front Shoulder ]>oint of \ inch, and finish as shown in Diag. C. But we very often meet with cases wiierc point T will come above the Shoulder seam on Back, as it will be with high Shoulder structures- -where the Shoulder Regulator may be 34 inches, and front and back balance the same as above. This would leave a balance of 6 inches ; and, conse- quently, would bring T S line \\ inches above Shoulder seam on Back In this case we measure the distance from T, on F line, down to top of Shoulder seam on Back, which will give ns 1|- inches, same as before. But the Shoulder Regu- lator calls for more length of Back Shoulder point on front jiart. We therefore bring the li- inches on T S line inside of E line. We also measure the same IJ inches back from F on O line, for the point of sweep from * 1 to ' 2. This includes all cases where T S line comes above the Shoulder seatn of Back. Mark jioint U \ the distance from O to R line (or back Sleeve Seam i>oint) for front Sleeve Seam. Draw Sweep lines at Waist by R and F lines as Diagram. Bring tape at G — let it run down to U ; bring it around in same shape as armhole will be, to centre of back at O, to find out if it will corres- pond with Shoulder, measure. Allow 1 inch for seams, and whatever is more than this we take out between Back and Side body. Then form the armhole in back and under the arm. Mark in on II line from inside seam on Back, | of the distance from I and J, — which is in this draft 3 inches, — and make a mark. Having all this, cut out the back, and this will l>ring us to Diagram B. PLATE III. Diagram B. Bring the back on point of ^^ide body at top. I>et it rest on mark from shoulder measure. Stick in a pin at O line, and shove it in on bottom so it rests on mark of | on H line ; and in this position draw a line along on back, and shape the Side body by giving rounding at tup and spring at bottom, as it will need. Bring back at top, even with side body. Let it rest behnv at side seam, and make a mark at bottom fur length of Side body. Bring square on E line. Let short arm I'un back to point of Side body, and draw a line across. Mark up on line E to W, from lower line, 1^ inches, or yV of Breast measure, and draw bottom line of Side body by these two points Draw a line for width of Side body. Bring the Back in a joining position on Side body at the Waist. Then measure from E to H line on Back the Back Waist measure 7^ inches. Allow \ inch for seams, and the balance we take ont between front and Side body : but be careful and not commence too high up below line in taking out the fish. Having this, then bring 7i- inches on PlateHL J Plate IV, Plate V. THE GUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. back Waist measure on E line at H, and measure out in froftt |- the Waist measure, (16 inches) with J- inch allowance for seams, making in all 17^- inches. Make a mark in front at Y. Then draw bottom line of front part, commencing on line of Side body, and coming out at X. Measure down on front line from C 36, on Scale No. Y, to Z. Bring ruler at this point and D at top line, and draw a line from E to Z for bottom of Neck ; also draw a line from B to C and O line for length of Neck. Having all these points, then bring the Back on top of Shoulder in a closing position, and in this way finish the Neck Gore ; also bring the back in at back Shoulder seam, and mark the width for front Shoulder, and then finish the Arm- hole as shown in Diagram. Then draw front line from Neck point to bottom of the front part for a Double Breasted Coat, and finish all the rest as shown in Diagrram B. PLATE IV. Diagram G. SHOWING THE DRAFT OF A SINGLE BREASTED COAT. The Single Breasted Coat is drafted in the same manner as the Donble Breasted, the only differ- ence is in front. Measure out 2|- inches on top line from C, on sizes from 3i to 38 Breast, and 2i inches above tlicse sizes, and in the same propor- tion less below 31 sizes. Measure out at the waist from 1 to 1|- inches for Coats to button. Draw a line down in front, and finish as Diagram or according to fashion. Then measure down from Ct to U for the sleeve length, which is in our draft 12 inclies. Mark this down. Bring the back on slioulder point in a join- ing position, and measure around the upper Arm Sye from line R at Back pitch to U, in front, which is in our draft 9 inches. Mark this also down. Both of these measures we need to form the sleeve — the first one is to get the sleeve length, (as shown in Diagram E, draft of sleeve,) the second measure, from E to U, is to get the width and depth of front sleeve seam, and is tlio distance from A to B in Diagram E. PLATE Y. Diagram D. SHOWING HOW TO DRAFT A COAT FOR A CORPULENT MAN. This Diagram is a Coat, measuring 46 inches Breast and 50 inches Waist. It is drafted in the same manner as other Coats. The only reason I give this Diagram is to shovv how easy you can get a draft for any form by my system. The measure for this Coat is as follows : 21 Full M-aist length. 40 Full lengtli of Coat. !^ Back waist measure. 22|- Back balance. 24 Front balance. 37 Sleeve length. 35 Shoulder regulator. 331- Arm depth. 29|- Shoulder measure. 46 Breast measure. 50 Waist measure. 10 THL CUTTERS^ CENTENNIAL GUIDE. PLATE VI. Diagram E. SHOWING HOW TO DRAFT THE SLEEVE. Draw a line from A to O, and square out at top. Brinaj the distance from K and Q line on back (or 1 inch) from A to C, and make a mark. Then bring the measure from R line at back pitch to U in front of Arm Sye, as we have explained on page 9, or, in this case, 9 inches. Allow \ inch for Seams, making in all ^\ inches from A to B. Bring tape measure at B, and make a sweep line from A to D. (Be careful to not let tape slip in under your finger.) Then bring tape at A, and make a sweej) from B to D, and point D, or where these lines meet each other, will make our width of Sleeve and also depth of front Sleeve seam. Lay on the square at top line, let long arm of square run down in front of Sleeve, and draw a line from top to K. Measure down from C to E the distance from ii to O line on Back (or Z\ inches). Square out from E to F, and measure out on this line from E to F same distance as from C to E, 3i inches. Bring tape on this mark at F, with crayon on point C, and make a sweep from C to front, for Sleeve head. Form it in front from sweep line to D. Measure in from front line to G same distance as from E to F, .3i inches. Bring tape on this point, and make a sweep from front line, \ inch above crossing of sweep lines at D, to F, for under side of Sleeve. Then bring the arm- hole measure, for under side, from U, in front, around under the Arm to R line at back pitch, (or 7J inches,) from D to I, in a straight line, and make a mark, — and shape upper and under Sleeve as Diagram. Then bring measure from front part, or from G to U, which is 12 inches, as before stated, on D. Measure down on front line to K, for full length of Sleeve, which is in this case 31' inches, and allow I inch for seams; and in so doing, by ap- plying our measure from G to U, and from U to K, we will get the correct length of Sleeve. Make a mark at this point. Take \ the distance from D to K square across, which gives us line L or elbow point. Lay on the square— let augle rest on K, and long arm run up to F. Draw a line across at the bottom of sleeve. Measure in from K to M width of Sleeve, ac- cording t<:> fashion, now about 6 inches. Draw a line from M to L line, and finish Sleeve as shown in Diagram or fashion. Hollow out at front if needed, or make front seam straight, as fashion may dictate. In drafting the Sleeve according to my system, you will find it gives the shape for every Sleeve according to the form of the body. It is more in getting a good fitting Sleeve, as the most of cut- ters in general have an idea of. Cutters, in general, study to get the Ijody of the Coat right ; that is, if they have a system which has a fault in giving too much cloth in one place, or wrinkling in another, to avoid these errors; and will not rest until they find out the cause that brings this. But very few will give their study to the Sleeve, which alone gives a good fitting Coat an elegant and graceful appearance. A good many cutters have the fashion of trying the gai'- ment before it is finished, to ascertain if it is cor- rect, or if they must take out a piece under the arm, or side body, shoulders — and even at the waist they will have to make alterations. Now then, if they have the luck to find a Coat all right in those places, so it sets smooth in under the arm and side body, also on top of the shoulders, it is pronounced a perfect fitting Coat. The Sleeve is put in afterwards, because, as I have said before, very few cutters look at the Sleeve as of much im- portance. The Coat is finished, and when tried on again it will astonish the artist. There is a big wrinkle on side body, extending across to the back, shoulders hanging down, which were intended to be square, and, on the whole, there is no lifelike appearance in the garment. The question is, then, who is to be blamed for this ? And, in nine cases out of ten, the blame is laid on the tailor (which, in some cases, may be true). But there is a cause for all this ; and this is, your sleeve head is not in the right shape to fit in the Coat ; and, if you doubt this, rip out the sleeve at the toji, from front to back seam, and you will find it wants more length at the sleeve head to allow the shoulder to raise up, and not pull down on top of shoulders and also at back pitch : you will see at once the Coat is all right, but your sleeve is too short on top. I claim that my system of drafting sleeves is diflerent from any system which is in use, and will in all cases, if the points are put down correct, give a good fitting sleeve. I still further claim, it is the easiest and simplest rule of drafting a sleeve, because it comes after you apply your measure from A, B, C, E and F, all by sweeps ; and any cutter of common talent can draft out a good fitting sleeve in less than one minute time. Plata W. O ^ •^1 B W. Plate W:, TEE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 11 Diagram N. HOW TO DRAFT THE LAPEL. Draft it out in the following way : Draw a line down from A to B. Measure down from A to C 2|^ inches. Square out to D. Mark out on top to D 2 iflches at O line, or where it joins O lino in front, 2|- inches, and at tlie bottom 2 inches. Draw a line from C to D, at top line, for the point of lapel, and from D mark, down in front, for rounding, striking at O 2|, and at the bottom 2 inches, and cut it out. Diagram 0. HOW TO DRAFT SKIRT ON BACK, The Skirt on the back is drafted in the fol- lowing way: Measure back from centre line, or V, 1 \ inches, and draw a line by N and 1 .', down full length of the Coat — 38 inches square across on bottom. Mark the same width at bottom as it is from IJ inches to W at side seam on back. Draw a line down inside by side seam and lower mark, for width of back skirt, and give the necessary rounding for spring. Then draw a corresponding line with the rounding for the plait, and finish it according to taste or fashion. THE COLLAR. The Collar is drafted in the following way, as shown in Diagram C : Draw a line for the crease of lapel by front shoulder point. Mark the width of back from shoulder point back. Then bring the crease of Collar in the back \ inch below the straight line, and square up and down in centre by this crease line. Mark up 11 inches, or as fashion, and for the standing Collar \\ inches, and finish as Diagram C or fashion. PLATE YII. Diagram F. DRAFTING A SKIRT FOR A DOUBLE BREAST FROCK. This is, as in Diagram E, of more importance than it is generally thought of. The Skirt is also a part of the Coat, which, when in a good shape, and in a good hanging position, will add a great deal to the elegance of the garment. Therefore, it is more worthy of our study than it generally receives. My system for drafting Skirts has good and reliable points, and will give a Skirt for every Coat according to the shape of the body for which it is drafted. It is simple in the waj' of drafting, and correct in all the points — more so than I have seen in any other systen). Every line and point is taken from the body, and brought down on THE DRAFI'. Draw a line in front from A to B. Measure down from A to C, one-half of breast measure, or 9 inches, in tin's draft, and square in to D. Measure in from C to D 1 inch, and if more full- ness is desired make it 1| or even 2 inches. This point is governed by the fasJiion, and must be changed accordingly. Bring angle of square at A, let short arm rest on D, and in tliis position draw a line on top from A to E. Then bring Waist Measure, measuring front part, side body and lapel, adding 1 inch for fullness from A to E. Draw a line for hollowing at top, as shown by dotted lines, not exceeding more than \ inch in centre of A and E. Mark in from E \ of distance from A and E, or width of Waist to F. Square down to H, and bring the 1| inches, which we have marked up on E line, to W, for bottom line of side body, from Waist seam to H (or, in other words, from dotted line to H in Diagram F,) bring srpiare at E, let short arm rest on H, and draw a line from E to G. This line will give the correct spring at back Skirt. Bring side body in a joining position at Waist, the point resting on E ; and in this way give the necessary rounding from E to G. Draw a corresponding line for the phut. Measure down from A to B length of back Skirt, or 19'- inches; also, in centre, from dotted line, allow \ inch at this point. Then measure also in back, and allow \ inch for fullness: and shape the bot- tom by these three marks, and finish all tho rest as shown in Diasram F. 12 TEE CUTTERS'' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. PLATE VIII. Diagram G. HOW TO DRAFT SKIRT FOR A CUTAWAY FROCK AND DRESS COAT. Draw a line Irom A to E. Bring Waist measure from B to C. Mark \ of this measure from C to E. Square up to F and also to *. Having this, then bring the distance, marked up on E line, to W, for side body, (which is \^ inches,) between * and F, making f inch each way from E. Then draw a line for top of Skirt from C to B, as shown in Diagram. Bring angle of square on C, let short arm rest on *, and in this position draw a line from C to D. Bring side body on top in a joining position, and give rounding on back Skirt as it may need. Bring front part on Skirt in a joining position at B, and draw a line down in front to G. Measure down from C to D length of Skirt ; also, in front. Make it -J- inch less in front, and finish the whole as Diagram. The Dress Coat Skirt is drafted in the same manner — all the points are the same as before stated. Measure out from C to H | of Breast measure, and from D to I ^ Breast. Mark down from II 1| inches, and at B 1^ inches, for Belt. Draw a line from H to T, and shape the Skirt, as shown in Diagram or according to fashion. PLATE IX. Diagram H. SHOWING HOW TO DRAFT BODY SACK. Sack Coats are drafted on the same principle as Frocks. All the construction lines are the same : the measurement is the same also. Therefore it will not be necessary to say more about it. I only will say, if you follow this plan correct you will get a neat fitting body Sack, which will give satis- faction to the customer as well as to yourself. The raeasui'e is as follows : 34 Full length of coat. 7-i Back waist measure. 19A Back balance. 20 1 Front balance, 31^ Sleeve length. 31 Shoulder regulator. 27 Arm depth. 23i Shoulder measure. 36 Breast measure. 32 Waist measure. Draw a line from A to V, full length of Coat ; also, square out at top. Mark from A to B ^ the Breast measure IS inches, from B to C — 36 witli Scale No. VI, or 3 inches, square down in front for C line. Find out the difi'erenee between Shoulder and Arm depth measure, as explained in Frock Coat. Mark down from A, with Scale No. lY, 27, and with Scale No. I, 23i, as both of these measures call for. Then mark out from A to E, with Scale No. I. Bring 23} on A, and make a mark in front, and in the same time mark 23J on Scale No. II, for F line, and with Scale No. Ill mark out from A to D 23|. Square these lines down. Mark from A to AA, width of Back,or distance from A to D, and square this line also. Mark down from top, on E line 20i inches to H. Square across back and front. Measure in on H line 7}- inches to I. Measure from I to J. Divide it in three parts. Bring one part of this in from J to K, which is 1 J- inches. Measure up from H, on E line, to L, 19i inches, and from L to M bring -} of the distance from J to K (or J inches), and sweep by H E, from M to N, the same as Frock Coat. Divide distance from E to B, for G. Lay tape measure on G. Mark down to centre of E and F lines 13J inches, and make a sweep ; also, from N down 13J inches, and make sweep also. Square O line across from A to € in front, same as in Frock Coats. Measure centre between N and O on Back for P line ; also, centre from F to O, for Q line, and R in centre of P and Q. R line gives the point for Sleeve seain at back pitch. Bring ruler on K and R and F lines, as in Frock, and draw a line up from ]1 for pitch of Back. Mark centre from O and R on E line. Bring ruler on this centre mark. Let it rest at N and D lines, and draw a line for Shoulder drop on back. This will show you the Shoulder seam on Sack Coat comes higher up as Frock, and it will, in fact, make no difference how high or low you will place this seam, the * 1 and 2 will give the correct length of front Shoulder; aud, therefore, is left to the artist entirely to suit his taste. Mark in from J to * G inches {or fashion) ; from * to '••' -J- of the distance from I to J, or H inches ; also mark out on bottom 6 inches or fashion. Mark in on O line Pfafe Vm PlatelK. Plato X. THE CUTTEES' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 13 the \ inch difference of Arm depth and Shoulder measure, and draw a line by this mark and II for hollow of Waist. Mark point for depth of Side seam, and finish the Back as Diagram. Bring tape measure on G, let it come under the arm and back to centre at O, and mark Shoulder measure ; allow 1 inch for seams, and the rest we take out between Back and Side Body. Make this mark the point to form Side seam, running down tu *, and also to bottom as Diagram. We next bring the Shoulder regulator measure down from top line to T. This is the same as in Frock Coat, 9 inches. Square across on bottom, for line S, out to * 1. Measure up from T to top of Shoulder seam on back on F line, which is in this draft 2 inches, and bring this out on S from E line to * ]. Bring tape on crossing of F and O line, and make a sweep from * 1 to * 2. Bring ruler on S and G, and draw a line. Bring tape on " 2, and sweep from crossing of G, S, and AA lines to F, for shoulder. Mark down with Scale V 36 to Z. Draw a line by Z and D, from B to O and C, and finish the rest as e.'^plained in Frock Coats. Bring back Waist measure 7i inches, on E at H line. Mark out in front to Y 16 inches, or full Waist— from C on O line, for a Single Breasted Coat, 2?r, and at Y, It inches, and finish the front to fashion, and the whole as Diagram II. In regard to Double Breasted Coats, the distance from C on O line is 3 inches for sizes 34 to 38 Breast, and above these sizes 3i- inches; and also the same from Y out. This, of course, is onl}' a guide, and is left to the artist to suit his taste. PLATE X. Diagram I. SHOWING HOW TO DRAFT SACK OVERCOATS. This Coat on Diagram I is drafted the same as Diagram H, or body Sacks, with very few excep- tions. I will only bring out those points which will be necessary to give a full understanding of the whole. By looking over the Diagrams you will find all points alike, and also the letters the same; but, after all, there is one point which I would impress on your mind, and that is from L to M on E line, which in Body Sacks is only ^ of the I (or point from J to K). On the Overcoat, how- ever, we must bring the whole \ on this point from L to M, because for the Overcoat we must have a longer back at top from O to N than for a Body Sack. Bear this in mind and there will be no mis- tits. Again, that the measure for Frock and Sack Overcoats should be taken over the Under Coat, or Body Coat, to give you the exact measure to draft by. I find this the best way to draft out the Over- coat. The measure for this Coat is as follows : 44 Full length. 8 Back waist measure. 20|- Back balance. 21-i- Front balance. 32i Sleeve length. 32|- Shoulder regulator. 28'- Arm depth. 25 Shoulder measure. 38 Breast measure. 33 Waist measure. Draw a line ftom A to V, and square out at top. Measure out at top from A to B 19 inches, from B to C 38, on Scale Jso. VI. Mark down with Scale No. IV, from A to O, 28 J, or Arm depth measure. Take Scale ^o. I and mark down from A, 25, or Shoulder measure, to find out the difference be- tween these two measures, as already explained in Diagram A. This, as you will find, is -|- inch — and gives us h the width of Shoulder measure from A to E at top. Bring Scale No. I at top line ; let 25 rest on A, and make a mark in front for E. Mark with Scale No. II, 25, for line F, and with Scale No. Ill, 25, from A to D. Square these lines down. Mark from A to AA, width of Back, and square this line also. Then bring your front balance measure from E, at top, to H, 21-|- inches. Square line H. Measure back waist measure from H to I (8 inches). Measure from I to J, and bring \ of this measure from J to K. Measure up from H to L the Back balance measure, or 20|;. Then bring the \ from I to J (or tiie distance from J to K) from L to M, and make a sweep from M to N, for top of Back, same as in Frock Coats. Then mark centre from E and B, for G. Measure down from G I- the Arm depth measure, or 14]^ inches, and make a sweep; also, from N mark down 14:\ inches, and make a sweep also. Square line O across, as stated in Frock Coat. Mark centre from N to O for P, and Q line in centre of P and O, and R in centre of P and Q. Square these lines across. Bring ruler on K and R F crossing, and draw a line up from R for Back pitch. Mark centre of R and at E line, and draw a line from N D to Centre mark for Shoulder drop of Back- 14 THE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. Draw a line by \ inch at O and R line, as in Body Sack, for hollow of Back. Mark out from J to * 61 inches; also at bottom C| inches, or fashion, and finish back as Diagt-am. Then bring Shoulder regulator, after deducting it from front and back balance measure, leaving a balance of Oi- inches, from top line down on F to T. Square across on bottom for S line. Mark up from bottom of T to top of Shoulder seam on Back at F, which is in this draft 2{ inches, and bring this irom E out on S to * 1. Bring tape on crossing of F and O lines, and make a sweep from * 1 to * 2. Draw a line from S to G, and then bring tape on "" 2, and sweep for Shoulder to F line, as before stated. Then bring tape from G, around the Arm, back to O, to find out how it will corresjiond with Shoulder measure. Allow 1 inch for seams, and the rest take out between back and side body. Mark in from * to *, at H line, |, or distance from J to K. Give spring at bottom of fore part about 3|- inches, more or less, according to the fullness you want at the bottom of Coat, and finish side seams by these points. Having this, then finish the Shoulder part in the same manner as the Body Sack ; also, the Neck Gore as shown before ; and at top, for the fish, which is taken out, mark l* inches. Measure out for Waist from E, on H, to Y, de- ducting back waist measure, 161 inches, and allow 1 inch for making up. Measure out from C, on O line, for a Single Breast Coat, 2i- inches; and, also, from y, or waist, 21- inches. Draw a straight line from 2| inches at O by 21- inches at H, and finish the front as per Diagram. For a Double Breasted Coat mark out at O and H line 31- inches. Measure also for Arm Sye from R to U, in front, 91- inches, from G to U, for slee%'e length, 121- inches, and draft the sleeve by these measures the same as in Diagram E, by bringing 01- inches from A to B, and A to E, by back lines R and O, and so on as stated before in drafting sleeve. The Frock Overcoat is drafted in every way fis PVock Under Coats, without any changes whatever. The I, which is used by the Over Sack, from L to M, is only needed in Sack Overcoats. The only difl'erenee between the Under and Overcoat Frocks is the measure, which should be taken over the Under Coat. PLATE XI. Diagram K. SHOWING HOW TO DRAFT AN ENGLISH WALKING COAT. This Coat is in the construction the same as a Sack Coat, and will not be necessary to make more explanation about it except how to draft. The measure is as follows : 211 YaW length waist. 32 Full length of coat. 7.J- Back waist measure. 1'4 Back balance. 201- Front balance. 311 Sleeve length. 31 Shoulder regulator. 27 Arm depth. 23|- Shoulder measure. 36 Breast. 32 Waist. Draw a line down on back, and also square out at top. Measure out from A to B, 18 inches, from B to C, 36, on Scale No. VI. Square down in front. Measure out with the Scale No. I 231 to E, from E to F 23^ on Scale No. II, and with Scale III 231 from A to D. Square all these lines down. Measure down on E line 20J inches to H. Square across. Measure back on H line to 1,71 inches; also, from I to J, bring \ of the same from J to K. Measure up from II to L, back balance, 19J- inches. Then bring 1 the distance between J and K, above L to M, and sweep by H, from M to N. Mark point G 1 the distance between B and E. Measure down from G 131 inches, for arm depth, and make a sweep. Measure down from N 131- inches, and make a sweep also. Square across for line 0. Measure up from to N. Take J the distance for P, and also for Q and R lines, and mark all the rest as stated in Sack Coat. Measure down from N line on back, full length of waist, 211- inches; and also from N to Y, full length of Coat, 32 inches. Measure in on H line, from J, 1 inch ; and also from J, 41 inches, to *, more or less, ac- cording to fashion. From Y or bottom line measure out the same distance as from J to *, and finish the back as Diagram ; also, finish front the same as exjilained in Diagram H, and the whole as Diagram K. The sleeve is drafted in the same manner as Frock or Sack Coats, and need no more explanation. PlateXI. THE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 15 Diagrams A, H, and I. FOR DRAFTING PATTERNS OF THE READY-MADE TRADE. These diagrams are laid down on the same principle for drafting patterns for the Ready-Made Trade as they are by actual measurement; and, if drafted according to this plan, yon will have a good-fitting set of patterns. Diagram A. Square lines same as Frock Coat, before stated, from A down, and also square out to C at top. Measure out from A to B, IS inches, for 36 Breast, and from B to C 36 on Scale No. VI. Measure down from A to O, with Scale No. IV, 36 on Breast measure scale, and in the same time with Scale III, 36 from A to A A. Then bring Scale on top measure out with Scale No. I, 36. from A to E, Scale II, 36, from E to F, and with Scale III, 36, from A to D. Square all these lines down. Mark down from A A to II i the Breast measure. or 18 inches, and square this line across. Mark in from J to I I of the Breast measure, or 4} inches ; take \ of this \ of Breast (or IJ inches), and bring it from J to K. Bring tape measure on 11 and E crossing, and crayon on top line at E, and make a sweep from E to N. This will give us the correct height at Back. Square across for N line. Mark centre of N and O lines for P, and also centre of P and O for Q, and also for R line. Bring square on K, and R and F crossing, and draw a line up from R, lor back pitch. Bring it to P and F crossing, and draw a line up for a guide to shape the Back, and finish the Back as explained in Dia- gram A. Draw sweep lines from H, and bottom line, by R, at back pitch. Mark in on H line, between back and side body | of the | Breast measure (or 3 inches). Mark G in centre of E and B. Draw a line up from R and E, to G at top. Measure up from O, on F line, to top of l3ack shoulder seam, and bring |- of this measure, 2| inches in this draft, from E, on O line, to '" 2, and sweep from this point for front shoulder, as explained in Diagram A. Mark down in front, from C, with Scale V, 36, to Z. Draw line from Z and D, for Neck, from B to and O. Cut out the Back. Finish side body as before e.xplained ; also, Armhole. Then bring the Back at top, and finish this also, as before stated. Also, in front finish this according to taste or fashion. Measure down from G to U, for sleeve length, 12 inches; also, from R to U, as before stated, for drafting sleeve. All this is explained in Diagrams A and B, actual measurement. Diagram H. The Sack Coat is drafted on the same principle as the Frock Coat. Draw a line down in back, and square out at top. Mark out B, C, D, E, and F lines. Measure the width of Back, and bring it down from A to A A. Measure down from this point 18 inches, or 1- the Breast measure, to H. Square this line. Mark in from J to I } of Breast measure. Measure in from J | of an inch, and also from J 6 inches, for width of Back, at the waist to *. Take \ of the \ of Breast measure, from J to I, and bring it from * to ". Measure down, with Scale No. IV, 36, from A to O, for Arm depth. Square line O across. Make a sweep from E, H, and E and top line, to N, for top of Back. Square line N across. Mark line P, Q, and R, as before stated. Mark centre from O and R on E line, and draw a line by this mark, and N and D, for Shoulder Seam on Back. Measure up from 0, on F line, to top of back shoulder seam, and bring | of this measure from E to * 2, and sweep from this point for front shoulder, as before stated, and finish all the rest as in Frock Coat, or in Sack Coat, on actual measurement, Diagram U. Diagram I, or Sack Overcoat. This Diagram is drafted the same as Body Sack. ,By drafting an Overcoat pattern on the same breast measure — 36 inclies — as Body Sack, Dia- gram II, we will get a 34 Breast Overcoat ; that is, it will fit a man measuring 34 inches Breast. A pattern drafted on 38 inches will fit a man 36 Breast measure. This shows that an Overcoat wants to be 2 inches more in Breast measure than Body Coat. The only changes we have to make on Sack Overcoats from Body Sack is, we must add -|- inch on E line, above the top line, lor the sweep to N, which will make the coat so much higher in back. As the Overcoat wants to be longer in Back, to cover the Undercoat, this change is necessary. All the rest is as shown in Diagram I, already explained by actual measurement. 16 THE CUTIERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. Table for the Sleeve Length of Patterns for the Ready-Made Trade. DISTANCE FULL LENGTH SIZE OF FROM G TO U OF 8LEB\TEi PROM BREAST MEASURE. IN FRONT. G AT NECK. INCHES. INCIrE^;. INCHES. 24 H 21 • 26 n 23| 28 9f 25 i 30 lot 27l 32 11" 291 34 m 31" 36 12" 32 38 12^ 33 40 13' 34 42 13J 35 44 14" 351 46 14.1 36" 48 15" 361 50 151 37" Diagrams R, S, T, and U. HOW TO DRAFT THE INVERNESS CAPE, with or without sleeves, and also HOW TO PRODUCE THE THREE-QUARTER CAPE OR CIRCLE. This stjle of Overcoat, known as the Inverness Cape, wliich has been in demand for a number of years> has been, on acconnt of change in fashion, somewhat drawn aside; but, in spite of the de- crease in fasiiion, it is still in demand among some of the travelling community to some degree, and will be so for some time to come, as there is no question of the advantages it has for travelling pur- poses — it gives protection and comfort to its wearer. It leaves no question in my mind that some of the cutters will gladly receive this diagram, for some of them maj' have been in embarrassment in draft- ing out this style of garment. Most of the cutters, in producing this style of overcoat for the various forms, generally have to draft the same by gradu- ated scale.-;, and the result therefrom no doubt some have experienced, as all patterns drafted by graduated scales will be above 3S Breast measure — many sizes too large for the Breast measure for which they are intended. The only way to over- come the difficulty mentioned is to draft this style of garment by actual measurement, as we do in Frock or Sack Coats, and any other plan from this is only guess work. With these few introductory remarks I will proceed to lay before you the neces- sary directions for drafting this garment according to mv svstem. The measure is as follows : 44 Length of coat. 20 Back balance. . 21 Front balance. 32 Sleeve length. 32 Cape length. 32 Shoulder regulator. 28.1 Arm depth. 23i Shoulder measure. 20 Length of neck.' 36 Breast measure. 33 Waist measure. THE DRAFT. Draw a line from A to Y, or full length of Coat ; also, square out from A for top line. Measure out from A to B the Breast measure, or, in this draft, 18 inches; from B to C 1 the Breast measure, or 9 inches; and from C to R 11 inches — in all cases from 34 size Breast measure up. These three measures give us the full width of the Coal. We next take our Shoulder measure, which is in this draft 231 inches, and will give us (by applying the same as explained in Frock Coats) 12 inches in width. This, as you will see, corresponds with the Breast measure of 36 inches, which will give us | from centre of Back to front of Arm Sye. Measure THE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 17 out from A to D -^ of Shoulder measure, or 3 inehes; from D to F J- of the Shoulder measure, or 6 inches; from A to O line full width of the Shoulder measure, or 12 inches; and from O to B i of the Shoulder measure, or 6 inches; making the distance from A to 1> 18 inches, or i more, as the Shoulder measuie. Then mark out from B to G -J of Breast measure, or 3 inches. Square these lines, D, F, O, B, G, down, as shown in Diagram. Measure in from B to E, :^ Breast measure, or 4^ inches, and make a mark. Then measure down from B, or top line, to M, 21 inciies, or front bal- ance measure. Then measure up from * on O and M lines to F, 20 inches, or back balance measure, and make a sweep to N, for top of Back ; and in this way we get the correct length in front and Back. Then we take our arm depth measure, which is in our measurement 2S|- inches. Bring tape on G at top. Let it run down 14^ inches, be- tween B and O line, and make a sweep. Also bring tape measure on mark of 20 inches, for back balance, at F line. Let it run down 14|- inches, and make a sweep also: and this will give line L, for bottom of Arm depth, as explained in Diagram A. AVe next measure down from top line at B to H, width of Back, or 3 inches, from top line to J, f of Breast measure, or 6 inches, and from same point to K I, or 9 inches ; and K to L we get from Arm depth measure. This will give ns the distance from B, or top line, to L, 13|- inches, or 28|- inches Arm dejith measure. Square lines across. Measure up from M to N, i- the Shoulder regulator, or 16 indies. Allow -^ inch for seams, and this gives us line N. Square this line across. Line N will reg- ulate point J, from B line back, in bringing it up or down. By following this plan, we will get the front and Back length for every man we measure for this style of Coats, according to the standing position. In drafting Patterns fur the Ready-Made Trade, this is as follows: From A to D, ^; from A to F, 4 ; from A to O, | ; from to B, -J- ; from top, or B, to H, J ; to J, I; to K, ^\ from K to L | of Breast measure from H to M is the Breast measure of the Coat. The centre of H and J will make line N; and this line will give the length of Back at top. All the rest is as laid down by actual measurement. Having all these points, as before stated, then we go on and finish our front and back in the fol- lowing way : Bring ruler on E at top. Let it rest on Q, the crossing of O and K, and draw a line down to bottom of Coat. Measure up from N, on D line, top of Back, I- inch for spring, and draw a line from this point to O. Bring ruler on the crossing of K and F line. Let it rest on crosrjng of Side seam at M line below, and in this position draw a line down to bottom of the Coat. Shape top of Back. Give rounding from N to L. as Dia- gram shows. Then shape front shoulder, commencing at E and N lines. Hollow out as shown in Diagram, striking H line at G. We next finish Arnihole at top, commencing at J and E lines, and shape it down in front to L. Measure the width from J to N, on E line, and bring the same in from Q to P. Add \- inch at this point, above Q on E line, for spring, and draw a line to P. Shape Armhole in back and under arm to L in front. Then measure down from N, or top of Back, to Y, full length of Coat. Draw line 1 inch from bot- tom across to I. Bring tape measure on D, and make a sweep for bottom of Back. Bring tape measure on B at top. Let it run down in a line with B line, and make a sweep i inch below bot- tom line to side seam on front part. Measure out from C line to I 2^ inches, and draw a line down in front from R to I. Then cut out the Back. Bring it ou front Shoulder point, and shape the neck in front. Measure in h inch froin^front line to S, and shape the front from S down. Measure back from C line ^ inch, and make this the point for length of Collar, and shape all the rest as Dia- gram R. This completes the Coat with Sleeves. The same Diagram shows how to draft the Coat without Sleeves. Measure down from L to X |, or 3 inches, and mark up to Shoulder, as dotted lines show, for Armhole. All the rest is drafted as be- fore stated. Diagram S. How to draft the cape for the Inver- ness Cape Coat, Bring the front part on the cloth so front edges run even down. Mark the Neck on Cape the same as front part. Bring ruler on H and G lines, or front Shoulder point. Let it come in centre of N and J lines at E. Draw a line to Y. Measure down from G to U for length of Cape, 32 inches. Bring tape on H at B line. Make this point a pivot by bringing tape on this point, and sweep from U to V ; and from U draw a corresponding line to the front, and finish all the rest as shown in Diagram S. 18 Tilt CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. Diagrani T. (Marked en Diagr. J by mistake,) HOW TO DRAFT the CAPE CALLED THE THREE-QUARTER CIRCLE. This is a regular Cape, called the Three-Quartar Circle, and is worn by military men, and also by others to some extent : and cixn be worn over a Frock or Sack Coat. luring the front of the Coat fur which it is in- tended to be worn with on the cloth in the same manner as before stated in Diagr. S. Lay the Back in a closing position to the Shoulder of fore- part, the centre of Eack to represent the centre of Circle or Cape. Measure down from top line 3 inches; also, measure in from front shoulder point to H 3 inches, same as in Diagram R, and make a sweep from U, by making 11 a pivot, to W. Sliape the neck as Coat from which it is drafted. Then shape the rest according to taste or fashion, or as Diagram T. Diagram U. Draw a line from 1 to 3. Square up from 1 to 2. Meajsure up from 1 to 0, 1-i- inches; from to 2, 2] inches. Then measure the Neck of Coat. Bring this measure, oi' 10 inches in this draft, from 1 to 3. Square up to 4. Make the width in front from 3 to 4, 2|- inches. Mark up in centre of 1 and 3, 1 inch, and shape the Collar as shown in Diagram. The Sleeve for this style of Coats is drafted in the same manner as shown in Diagram E, with only one exception, and that is the measure we have from Frock Coats, from R to (), on back, which gives us the distance from A to C. We measure down from A to C, jV of Breast measure, and from A to B, \, with J inch allowance, the Armhole measure. Then sweep from A and B to D, same as explained in Diagram E. PLATE XII. Diagram L. SHOWING THE DRAFT OF A SINGLE BREAST VEST. In my'system tlie Vest is drafted in the same manner, with very little exception, as Coats. The measurement is the sauje ; also, the -drafting is on the same plan. The measurement stands as fol- lows for a Single Breasted Vest : 7J Back waist measure. 19^ Back balance. 20J- Front balance. 31 Shoulder regulator. 27 Arm depth. 23i Shoulder measure. 1.5 Length ot collar. 27 Full length of vest. 23 Full length at hip. 3fi Breast. 31 Waist. Draw !i line down from A, and silso square out top line. Measure out from A to B ^ tke Breast measure, IS inches; from B to C, 2|- inches, for sizes from 34 to 40 — 2| above those pises, and in the same proportion less below 34 sizes ; from 32 down to 28, 2| inches ; and below 28, 2 inches. Measure down from A to O, with Scale No. W, 27, and also with Scale No. I, 23i, same as in Coats, to find out the difference between these two measures. This is also \ inch different, and will give ns the full width from A to E. Bring Scale No. I at top, 23^, resting on A, and make a mark in fr<»it of scale. Add ^ inch in front for seams, and make a mark for E line. Bring scale on E line. Mark in this position 23|, Scale II, for F line, and Scale III, for the middle line; also, with Scale No. Ill, from A to D, 23J, and stjnare these lines down. Measure down on E, from top to H, 20 J inches. Square line II. Mark back to I, 7^ inches, as our measure calls for. Mark in from J to K, \ of the distance between I and J, for hol- lowing out the Back at Waist, and also }, inch from E line, back at H, to *. Then measure up from II, on E line, back balance measure, 191 inches, to L. Bring \ of the distance between I and J, .trom L to M, and sweep from H, E, and M, to N. Mark G, in centre of E and C. Measure down from G, to middle line, 13^ inches, for Arm depth, and make u sweep; also, from N, 13|^ inches, and make a sweep also. Square line O across, between centre of sweep, and mark from Scale IV, on back. Then find out the difference between back and front balance, and the Shoulder regulator, as explained in Frock Coat, and is in this draft 9 inches. Bring this measure, or 9 inches, from top line, down on F to T. Square across to Q. Mark uj) from N to D, i inch. Shape the top of back by giving spring above line N. Draw a line for Shoulder seam, by top of Back and Q, at E line, ilcasui-e up froHi Ff/ttrX// r B ..G Ffa/rXW THE CUTTERS' CENTEI^NIAL GUIDE. \% T, on F line, to crossins of Slionkier line on F, whieli is in tliis dr.ift 3|- inches. Bring this ont from S, or middle line, to * 1. Measure up from O to T, 3j inehes, and bring this in from E line to P. Bring tape on P, and sweep from * 1 to * 2. Bring tape on * 2, and sweep from crossing of Q, G, and A A lines, und .-weep to F, for Siioulder on front i>art. Bring s<]uare on E at top line. Let it run to O, at A line, and make a mark on back Shoulder seam, for width of Shoulder. Then measure out from K, on II line, 1\ inches, or back AVaist, with 1 inch added for seams, making in all 84- inches to *, for side seam on back. Form the back Armhole, commencing at to[> mark, and run down under the Arm to centre line. Shape side seam, commencing at middle line oa O, running down to *, and give spring at bottom. Then draw line on front to *, at E, on H line, as Diagram L shows. This leaves the Back, after it is formed at Waist, 8i- inches, — the tish taken out between front and back 24- inches, and from J to K li inches,— making in all 12^ inches from A to E. Bring 7^- inches, as our back- Waist measure calls for, on *, at front side seam, at II line, and measure out in front 15t inches, or full Waist measure. Allow i inch for the lap in front. Making with the extra |- inch allowance in front, 17 inches Waist measure to Y. Bring tape at G, and measure down in front for length of Collar, 15 inches; also for full length, 27 inches, with \ inch allowance for seams. Then bring tape on side seam from G, and mark full length, 23 inches, and allow also i- inch for seams. Draw a line by 23|^ inches, for bottom of Back, and finish the same as Diagram, and cut it out. Give spring at front shoulder point. Then bring the back on front part, on top line, and in this position finisli Arm- hole on front part. Draw a line from centre of E and Q G line, at front shoulder seam, to .full length of Collar, and shape the front by this line in neck. Finish the front, commencing at O and C line, down to waist, as Diagram L sliows. PLATE XIII. Diagram M. This Diagraui allows the different styles of Vests — the Single Breasted, to button way up ; the Double Breast, to button u]!; and the Double Breast, rolling collar. These tliree styles of Vests are drafted the same as Diagram L, the only differ- ence being in front. We first take the Single Breastetl, to button up. Having all the points as Diagram L shows, measure down on front, or C line, with Scale V, 36, (for 36 Breast,) to Z, and draw a line from \'i to Z, for depth of neck in front: also, draw a line from B to O and C line, in front, which gives the length of neck. Allow \ of an inch outside of this line to lap over, and finish the front as the Dia- gram shows, making the line from B down the point for the length of Collar. The ne.xt is the Double Breast Vest, to button iip. This is also the same as Single Breast. Measure down from top line to Z, Scale V, Breast measure. Draw a line from D to Z, for depth o'^ neck; also, from B to O and C, and shape the front by this crossing of lines — and also neck gore- Then draft the lapel:— make the same 2| inches wide at top, 2f at O line, and 2 inches at the bot- tom, and shape the same as Diagram M shows. The third style is the Double Breast, rolling collar. This Vest is drafted in the same manner as the Single Breast, rolling collar, Diagram L. The only difference is this: for a Double Breast rolling collar Vest we only measure ont fror** E, on H line, the actual waist measure, and not allow the \ inch extra in front to lap over. Bring tape with the back waist measure 74- inches on * at E line, and measure out in front 1.5| inches. Measure out from 15|- inches %\ inches, and at the bottom 2 inches, and draw a line up by 2 and 2| inches for the front, and also a line for the buttons to correspond with front line, and fini.sh the rest as Diagram M shows. 20 TEE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. The Same Diagrams for Cutting Shop Patterns. Square back and top line, as before explained. Mark out from A to B, 18 inches, for 3G breast; from B to C, 2|- inches ; from A to E, on Scale No. I, 36, and | inch for seams ; from E to F, Scale II, 36 ; for middle line, Scale III, 36 : and from A to D, Scale No. Ill, 36. Square all these lines down. Bring width of Back, or the distance from A to D, from top line down, and from this mark to H, 18 inches, or Breast measure. Square H line. Measure in from J to 1 1 Breast, or 4| inches. Bring \ of this | Breast, (or 1^- inches,) from J to K, for hollow of Back. Then measure out from K ^ the breast measure, (or 9 inches,) to * on H line, for width of Back at "Waist. Bring -J- tlie distance from J to K, {ov f inch,) from top line up on E, «r to point M. Then bring tape on H, and make a sweep from M to N. Square N line across. Bring Scale No. IV from top line down, and mark 36 for O line. Square line O across. Mark G in centre of E and C. Measure up from O, on E line, to Q, I of breast measure, (or 3 inches,) and draw a line from top of Back, at D line, to Q, for shoulder seam. Then measure from E line on O, for * 2, ^ of breast measure, or 2y inches. Bring tape on this point, and make a sweep at toj) for front shoidder seam, as already explained in Diagram L. Bring ruler on E and top line to O on back, and make a mark on slioulder seam for width of Back, and shape the Armhole down in under the arm. Then shape side seam on back, from middle line down to x at H line, and from same point to x , 5^ inch inside of E line at H, and give spring below. Mark- down on E line, from H, -J, — and in front, from H line on C, for full length of Vest, f, — and draw a line for bottom from \- and \ breast measure. Then square line for bottom of Back, and finish this as Diagram, and cut it out. Bring the back on top, the same as in actual measurement. Having all this, then finish the different styles of Vests, as Diagrams L and M, or according to fashion. PLATE XIY. Diagrams P and Q. DRAFTING PANTALOONS. ^ly system for Drafting Pantaloons has the most reliable points, which can not be found in any system published. It is easy to learn, and gives the points according to tlie sluipe of the body. It provides for the slim, tall man, as well as the so- called potbelly man; and will, in all cases, give the desired result, provided the measure is taken correct and the drafting carried out according to this rule. THE MEASUKEMENT. The measures for Pantaloons are taken in the following way : Find out the height of waist seam, or where tlie customer wants tlie top of waist, and make a mark. Bring tape on this mark. Measure down to knee, 24 inches — down to bottom, for full length, 4:2 inches. Bring tape up close in crotch — measure down to bottom for inside seam, 32 inches. Then bring your tape up in front of waist on top of fly, where the waistband seam should come, and measure down to bottom of inside seam, for front length, 41|- inches. Then measuie for width according to style or fashion. Supposing the fashion is as follows: at bottom, 19 inches; around the knee, 17 inches; up around thigh, 25V inclies ; around hip, where the body is the largest, 36 inclies — this measure should be taken very snug, as the system gives the extra allowance nec- essary. It is also the measure which gives the different points at top and bottom, the same as the breast measure in a Coaf. Then measure around the waist, 30 inches. This completes the measure standing, as follows : 24 Waist to knee. 42 Side length. 32 Inside lengtli. 4U Front lengtli. 19 Bottom. 17 Knee. 25|^ Thigh. 36 Hip measure. 30 "Waist measure. Plate yJV TEE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 21 THE DRAFT. HOW TO PRODUCE FRONT PART OF PANTS. Diagram P. Draw a line from A to C for centre or construc- tion line. We call it so because we mark in and out from this line for drafting a pair of Pants. This line is of great importance, because it gives the balance for the Pants ; therefore, we must lo- cate the same in the right place : and as soon as the same is brought out of place the Pants are spoiled. This line is of as much importance as the E line is in Coats in front of arm, and any system which is without this line for drafting Pantaloons is like a ship on the ocean without a compass — the captain will not know where he is, neitlier will the cutter without this line : he has no safe point to measure from or to go by. Lay on the square at the centre line, at A, and square across at top front and back. Measure down from A to B, 24 inches ; also to C, 42 inches, or full length square across at bottom. Then take the hip measure, which is 36 inches. Divide it. Measure in from C to E, -J- of hip measure, or 3 inches ; also, measure out from C to F, -J-, or 3 inches — from F to G, 4ti, or I inch. This gives us all the points at the bottom for the front part. Then measure up from C to H, inside length of leg, 32 inches. Square across front and back. Measure out from H to I, \ of hip measure, or 6 inches ; also, meas- ure in from I to K, J- hip measure, or %\ inches, and make a mark. Then ^measure in at top, from A to D, -\ of hip measure, and draw lines down from D to E, from F to K, up to top line ; also, draw a line from I down to G. Mark out from front line, J inch to L ; also, f inch from 1 out ; and draw a line down for dress side. Mark up from K to N, | hip measure. Measure back from front line, at top, to M, ^ the waist measure, which is 7i inches in our measurement. Always let centre of this measure come on centre line, at A, and measure out ^ each way, and bring front line at top in or out. Then finish the front part as Diagram, giving rounding for hip ; also, finish the front by striking !N, and come out at I. Then draw a line in front, from L to I, or | inch mark, for dress side, and finish the front from I down, in- side of leg, same as Diagram P shows. Give rounding at bottom for spring, below bottom line, and cut the front out. DRAFTING BACK PART OF PANTS. Bring the front on the cloth for back part in a convenient position. Mark the centre line on top and bottom to under side, so it will not get out of place. Extend j'our line across from front part on under side. Mark in from M to O, f of waist measure, or 5 inches, and allow | inch for seam ; from K to *, on front part, -J- of hip measure, or 9 inches ; and from this 9 inches to R, -Jj- of hip, or Iv inches. Here let me say if you find front part less than I of hip measure make up the diflerence from this point to E ; that is, bring the JW so much more in to give the full width. Measure out from I, to S, -Jg- of hip measure, or H inches; also, mark out from O to P, § of waist measure. Draw a line for seat seam, by bringing ruler on point P and N up. Bring \ of waist measure, from P up to Q, and draw a line from Q to O, for length of back, and shape it on top, as Diagram shows. Give spring at back seam, from P to Q. Measure in from E to T, \ of hip measure ; also, from F to U, -J. Then apply measure around the bottom, which is 19 inches. Measure the width of front part, from G to E, Gf inches. Bring this on U, and measure to T, and then add or take oft', as the case may be, according to the width of bottom ; but be careful to add or take off" on both sides alike, to make it equal. Measure out from front line to W, yV of hip measure. Then apply your measure around the knee, and allow 1 inch for making up, which will give us point V. Make a mark in centre, between E and T, — also G and U, — for a guide to shape the under side by, from knee down, — and finisli the whole as Diagram P, or according to fiishion. Draw a line about 3 inches above the knee, and also below tlie knee across, and notch these lines so when the Pants are joined together these notches will meet each otlier, to avoid drawing the Pants out of balance. Too mucli care cannot be taken on this part to have the same marked and joined togetlicr, as it should be. Every \ incli so brought out of the way will have a bad effect iu tlie liaiig of the Pants. We will finish our ttij) part now at waist. Measure front part at waist, 7|- inches. Bring tliis on Q, or top of waist, at back. Mark in from this point 15 inches. Allow 1 inch for making up, and whatever the balance of cloth is between this 16 incli and O take it out on back, by cutting out a fish from D down, so the point will run back- wards, more in the middle of back part, from 3 to 7 inches long, according to the width of tlie piece to be taken out. In regard to making up a pair of Pants, ;i great deal of pains must be taken by the tailor to have them joined together in the right way, and also press them as the different parts may ncoil. After 22 THE CU TIE US' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. the scatns arc i>resbed out the leg of tlie pants shoukl be folded together so that centre, line forms the crease in front; and in tlii^ way it shonld be pressed in on back of knee and up to tliigh, so it takes away the extra cloth in liack, and forms the front of knee: and l)clow tlie knee it shonld be stretched in back, and shrunk in in front, so it forms the calf of leg : and down at bottom, all the spring, wjiatcvcr amount there is, should Ijc brought in front : and by doing so you will have tlie whole shape of leg — and bringing all the extra clutli ill the different places where it is needed. Diag;ram Q. HOW TO PRODUCE A PAIR OF PANTS FOR A COR- PULENT MAN. Tiiis i)iagrani will show you the wiiole working of my system of drafting a pair of Pants for this class of men, and any cutter of practice will see it is a correct plan. It gives the different points for itself, and if tlie cutter is careful in taking the measure correct he will produce a good-fitting pair of Pants. The greatest difficulty in the most of systems for drafting Pants for a corpulent man is to get the exact amount of clotli from front line out, so it will give tiie extra cl.-th in front fur the belly, whicli is to be covered, witiioiit interfering beldw. ;it N, down to fork. For instance, a man 4S-incli waift and 44 liiii, his belly stand? out at tdp, and runs, after yon get above N, pretty well in. Supposing, now, you would bring the fly front on front line, at top, and give a little rounding be- low, will this give the shape for this man which he requires '. No, not by any means. The front of fly siiould be from 1 to ti inches outside from front line at waist : therefitre tliis amount of cloth must be allowed outside of tliis line, for covering tlie belly, Ml its, to give room and comfort to the wearer: and as soon as yon make tlie front line your ]«oint tor front of fly. at above stated, so soon you will draw tiie Pants out below at N, and bring a t^urpiiis amount of cloth at tliis point in front, which is needed on side and back, and spoils the looks and hang of the Pants. It is, therefore, necessary to ascertain the real amomit of cloth we need in front, at L, to give the wearer ease and comfort. This system provides for this, by meas- uring out from A to L, \ waist measure, which gives the exact quantity of cloth that is needed in front. Tiie next is to get the correct height at top in front. The measure we take for the length of Pants on the side gives ns the length of Pants at this point ; but in front, for this class of men, this measure is not sufficient. Supposing the cutter will make it the same length in front as on side seam, it would be entirely too short in front at top of waist. We must have a measure to give us the length in front, as well as on the side ; and this is the measure froni top of waist at front down to the liottom of the inside seam, as already ex[)lained. The measure for this Diagr. is as follows : ^5 From Waist to Knee. 43 Full length. lUi Inside length. 444 Front length. 194 Bottom. 23 Knee. 44 Hip measure. 46 Waist measure. THK DKAm'. In regard to drafting, this is the same as in Dia- gram P, with few exceptions. I will, therefore, explain the whole, to give a good understanding. Draw a line down, for construction or centre line. Mcasuie down, from A to B, 25 inches; to C, 43 inches. Square lines across by centre line, top and bottom. Measure from C to E, i of hip meas- ure, or 3| inches ; also, from C to F, J of hip measure ; from F to G, jtf, or I irich. Measure up from C to U, for inside seam, 31|- inches. Square this line also by centre line. Measure in from A to D, 1 of hip measure, or 1^ inches ; from H, or centre line, to I, \ of hip measure ; from I to K, i of hip mciisure, or 2| inches; and draw lines down, as before stated in Diagram P. Tiien measure for the waist at top. The waist measure in this draft is 46 inches, i of this is 23 inches, and makes one side of waistband. Take \ of this measure, oi" II I inches, for the front part, and from this take ^, or b\ inches, and bring it on centre line at A. Mark it out on front, and also to M. This gives the i of waist; — and wdierever this mark at front of waist comes is the point for the front line of fly. Mark out |- inch from front line of fly, and draw a line down for dress side. Mark out also \ inch from I at fork. Measure up from K to N, J- of hip measure, or 3| inches. Then shape the front from the \ waist measure down to N, and coming out at I ; also, draw a corresponding line \ inch outside down, for dress side. Then draw a line down i inch inside, from I to centre of F and tr, and shape fork by the same. This, as you will see, is the difference betwecu a slim and a corpulent man's pants. Diagram P, the line is drawn by F, or .}^ — Diagram Q, only \ the amount, or ji„. Bring tape measure on F and jjottora line. Let it run up to top and front line, THE CUTTERS' CENTENNIAL GUIDE. 23 as our front measure in this draft calls for, which is 44i inches. Make a mark, and draw a line from M to L, by this top mark, and cut tlie front part out. DRAFTING BACK PART. Eriui^ the front on clutli. Murk U)\) and bottom on centre line, to keep it in place. Extend the lines across from front. Measure in from A to O I the waist measure ; add 1 inch for seams, making in all 12? inches. Then measure out from A 1 inch, or i the difference between waist and hip measure, to P, and draw a line by P and N for back scam. Measure out from I to S, -^.y of hip measure. Tlien measure in from K to *, at side seam of front, ^ the hip measure, — 11 inclies — and from * to K ^'g- of hip, or 1 J inches. Bring \ waist measure, or 5| inches, from P to Q, and draw a line for top .1- inch below O, to Q. Give spring at back point Q, and shape the same as Diagram Q. Mark out from K and F line, on front, to W, Jt of hip measure, IJ inches; also, from F to IT, J;, and from E to T, J of hip measure, and tlien apply the measure for the bottom, and make the same to cor- respond with the measure as explained in Diagram P. Also, measure for width at Knee, and finish the under side as Diagram Q shows. Draw lines across, above and below Knee, and notch it, so the legs will not be twisted in joining them together, cut it out — AXI> OUR WORK IS RNDKD.