Class ^ 3J2 j the DIARY OF GEORGE WASHINGTON, FROM 1789 TO 1791 ; EMBUACING THE OPENING OF THE FIRST CONGRESS, AND HIS TOURS THROUGH NEW ENGLAND, LONG ISLAND, AND THE SOUTHERN STATES. TOGETHER WITH HIS JOURNAL OF A TOUR TO THE OHIO, IN 1753. Edited by Benson J. Lossing. RICHMOND: PRESS OF THE HISTORICAL SOCIETY. 1861. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S60, By CHAELES B. RICHARDSON & CO., In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. -b*'*^ RENNIE, SHEA 4 LINDSAY, R. CRAIGHEAD, 6TEREOTYPER8 AND EleCTROTYPERS. Printer, 81, 83 & 85 Centre-street, 81,83 & 85 Centkk-st. New York. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. It has been truthfully said that posterity loves details. When we contemplate the men who have lived before us, and left imprest f ' their acts upon the social aspect of the genera- tion in .1 they moved, we feel a great desire to become acquainted with the details of their daily lives, — how they spent their time not devoted to those public duties which have given them a title to a place in history, what were their recreations in times of leisure, and who were their family associates and their chosen companions in private. Historic men really form a part of our own being, for the man of to-day is only the more complete man of a thousand years ago, made so by the inter- vening experiences. In this unity, felt, even though not com- prehended by us all, doubtless lies the secret spring of our yearnings for knowledge respecting the past life of the race which render History and Biography specially attractive. Of all the records of men's doings, none possess so lively an interest, because so evidently truthful, as Diaries — the current history of the common every-day life of the men who made the chronicles of moving events, even while the majestic procession of the hours was passing by. In these, Posterity iinds those details it so much loves. The general historian must necessari- ly omit many of' them ; and the biographer too often leaves them unnoticed while unfolding to view the public acts of his subject. And so the world loses the best elements of history, b DIARY OF WASHINGTON. by which one age may judge philosophically of the character of another, as revealed by the knowledge of their common life. There is a continual and rapidly growing desire in the hearts of Americans to know more and more of the life and character of Washington, in all its minute details. We listen with the most eager attention to the words of revered men (now so few) who have seen the Father of his Country ; and the memory receives these narratives so perfectly, that, amid the thousand other impressions, they are never effaced. Fortunately for posterity, Washington was eminently a man of method. He was careful about small things as well as great; and it was his custom, from early years, to make a record of the events of his daily life, for future reference. This habit he continued until the close of his life ; and these notes, kept in books of convenient size for carrying in the pocket, furnish some of the most interest- ing pictures of the habits and modes of thinking of the beloved Hero and Sage, that have come down to us. Many of them have disappeared, and are doubtless lost forever. Like the Sibylline leaves, they are becoming more precious as their numbers decrease ; and we ought to take special care that the contents of those that remain shall not be lost. To do this, the agency of the printing-press must be evoked in multiplying copies, in numbers sufficient to guarantee the preservation of the precious words. The Diaries printed in the following pages, constitute some of the most important of Washington's private records, being made while he and his compatriots were arranging and putting in motion the machinery of our federal government. They are comprised in two little volumes, numbered respectively, 13, and 14. They are oblong in form, about four inches in width, and six inches in length, and contain from sixty to eighty leaves. All of Washington's earlier diaries were kept on the blank INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 7 leaves of the Virginia Almanac, "Printed and sold by Purdie and Dixon, Williamsburg.'' Later ones were kept in other pocket almanacs. The greater portion of his diaries are in the office of the rolls, State Department, Washington City. Those printed in this volume, are in private hands. A few illustrative and explanatory notes have been inserted to render some ob- servations clearer to the reader. B. J. L. New York, July, 1860. DIAEY THE 1st DAY OF OCTOBER, 1789, THE 1st OF JUNE, 1791. OCTOBER, 1789. Thursday, 1st. Exercised in my carriage in the forenoon. The following company dined here to-day, viz: Mr. Read, of the Senate, Col 0- Bland and Mr. Madison, of the House of Representatives, Mr. Osgood and his lady, Col 0- Duer, his lady and Miss Brown, Col 0- Lewis Morris and lady, lady Christiana Griffin and her daughter, and Judge Duane and Mrs. Greene. 1 Mr. Thomas Nelson joined my family this day. Dispatched many of the Com'ns for the Judiciary Judges, Marshalls, and Attorneys this day, with the Acts. Friday, 2d. Dispatching Commissions, &c, as yesterday, for the Judiciary. The visitors to Mrs. Washine;ton this evening were not numerous. Saturday, 3d. Sat for Mr. Rammage near two hours to-day, who was drawing a miniature Picture of me for Mrs. Washington. 2 AValked in the afternoon, and sat about two o'clock for Madam de Brehan, to complete a miniature profile of me, 1 The widow of General Nathaniel Greene. i John Rummage was a native of Ireland. He married a ladv in 12 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. which she had begun from memory, and which she had made exceedingly like the original. 3 Sunday, 4th. Went to St. Paul's Chappel 4 in the forenoon. Spent the remainder of the day in writing private letters for to-mor- row's Post. Monday, 5th. Dispatched the Commissions to all the Judges of the Supreme and District Courts ; and to the Marshalls and Attorneys — and accompanied them with all the Acts re- specting the Judiciary Department. Exercised on horseback between the hours of 9 and 11 in the forenoon, and between 5 and 6 in the afternoon, on foot. Boston, and went to Halifax with the British troops in the spring of 1776. Early in 1777, he established himself as a miniature painter, in William-street, New York, where he "continued to paint all the mili- tary heroes or beaux of the garrison, and all the belles of the place," says Dunlap. For many years after the war, he continued to be the best miniature-painter in New York, and occasionally made crayon or pastil sketches of life size. He died soon after painting the miniature of Washington. 3 This was the Marchioness de Brehan (or Brienne), sister of the Count de Moustier, Minister from France, who, with her son, accom- panied her brother to this country. They all visited Mount Vernon in the autumn of 1788. The " miniature in profile" of the first President which she made in New York, was engraved in Paris, and several im- pressions of it were sent to Washington the following summer. See Count de Moustier's letter to Washington, May 11, 1790, and Washing- ton's letter to the Count, November 1, 1790, in Sparks' Life and Writ- ing's of Washington. 4 Washington's pew in St. Paul's chapel was on the north side, under the gallery, about halfway between the chancel and the vestry room. DIARY OF WASHINGTON. 13 Had conversation with Col 0- Hamilton on the propri- ety of my making a tour through the Eastern States during the recess of Congress, to acquire knowledge of the face of the Country, the growth and agriculture thereof — and the temper and disposition of the inhabitants towards the new government, who thought it a very desirable plan, and ad- vised it accordingly. Tuesday, 6th. Exercised in a carriage with Mrs. Washington in the forenoon. Conversed with Gen. Knox, Secretary at War, on the above tour, who also recommended it accordingly. Signed Letters of Instructions to the Governor of the Western Territory respecting the situation of matters in that quarter. And authorized him, in case the hostile disposi- tion of the Indians was such as to make it necessary to call out the Militia, and time would not allow him to give me previous notice of it, to apply to the States of Virginia and Pennsylvania for a number not exceeding 1,500; one thousand of which to be taken from the former, and five hundred from the latter. Wednesday, *7th. Exercised on horseback, and called on the Vice-President. In the afternoon walked an hour. Mr. Jay communicated the purpt. of the Instructions re- ceived by Sir John Temple, British Consul, from the Duke of Leeds, Secretary for Foreign Affairs, viz : Trade. How many foreign vessels — of what nations — whether from Europe or their Colonies. 14 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. What tonnage — whether any and what difference between British and others — what on American. "What Port charges on foreign vessels — whether any and what difference, &c. What duties on foreign goods — whether any and what difference as to the Countries producing, and vessels bringing them — number of vessels built, where, &c. Staple Commodities. — Whether they encrease or dimin- ish — which — in what degree — and why. Manufactures — what — where — whether and how encour- aged. Emigrations — From Europe, in what numbers — from where — whether and how encouraged, &c. — from Uni- ted States — to British and Spanish territories, &c. Population — whether generally, or partially encreasing, or diminishing, and from what causes. Justice — Whether there be any, and what obstructions, and where, to the recovery of British Debts according to treaty. Upon consulting Mr. Jay on the propriety of my intended tour into the Eastern States, he highly approved of it, but observed, a similar visit w'd be expected by those of the Southern. 5 With the same gentleman I had conversation on the pro- s Washington visited the Southern States in the spring of 1791. He set out from Mount Vernon early in April, and was gone three months, during which time he performed a journey of about nineteen hundred miles, with the same span of horses. He followed the seaboard to Sa- vannah, visited Augusta, and returned by way of the interior of the Carolinas and Virginia. DIARY OF WASHINGTON. 15 priety of tak'g informal means of ascertaining the views of the British Court with respect to our Western Posts in their possession, and to a Commercial treaty. He thought steps of this sort advisable, and mentioned as a fit person for this purpose, a Doctr. Bancroft, 6 as a man in whom en- tire confidence might be placed. Col 0- Hamilton on the same subject highly approved of the measure, but thought Mr. Gouv'r. Morris well qualified. Thursday, 8th. Mr. Gardoqui 7 took leave, proposing to embark to-mor- row for Spain. The following company dined with me to-day, viz : The Vice-President, his lady and son and her niece, with their son-in-law, Col ' Smith and his lady — Governor Clin- ton and his two eldest daughters — Mr. Dalton and his lady, their son-in-law, Mr. Dubois, and his lady, and their other three daughters. In the evening, the Count de Moustier and Madam de Brehan came in and sat an hour. Mr. Madison took his leave to-day. He saw no impro- 6 Edward Bancroft, M. D., was an American by birth, but settled as a physician in London. He was intimate with Dr. Franklin, and a friend to the American cause during the war for Independence. He was with Silas Deane, in Paris, for some time ; and in the diplomatic operations of the United States, during the war, he was an efficient aux- iliary. Dr. Bancroft was a Fellow of the Koyal Society of London, and gained much repute as author of " An Essay on the Natural History of Guiana," and "Experimental Researches concerning the Philosophy of Permanent Colors." 7 Spanish diplomatic agent, who came to the United States in 1785. 16 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. priety in my trip to the eastward ; but with respect to the private agent to ascertain the disposition of the British Court with respect to the Western Posts and a Commercial treaty, he thought if the necessity did not press, it would be better to wait the arrival of Mr. Jefferson, who might be able to give the information wanted on this head — and, with me thought that if Mr. Gouv'r. Morris was employed in this business, it would be a commitment for his appoint- ment as Minister, if one should be sent to that Court, or wanted at Versailles in place of Mr. Jefferson, and more- over if either of these was his wish, whether his represent- ations might not be made with an eye to it. He thought with Col 0- Hamilton, and as Mr. Jay also does, that Mr. Morris is a man of superior talents — but with the latter that his imagination sometimes runs ahead of his judgment — that his manners before he is known, and where known, had created opinions of himself that were not favourable to him, and which he did not merit. 8 Friday, 9th. Exercised on horseback between the hours of 9 and 11. Visited in my route the gardens of Mr. Perry and Mr. Wil- liamson. 9 8 Mr. Morris was then in France, but not in any official capacity. He was intrusted with the business alluded to, and Washington pre- pared the necessary credentials for him on the 13th of October. 9 Perry's garden was on the west side of the Bloomingdale road, west of the present Union Square, and occupied the ground whereon the Church of the Puritans and other edifices now stand. Williamson's was a flower and nursery garden, and a place of public resort, on the DIARY OF WASHINGTON. 17 Received from the French Minister, in person, official no- tice of his having reed, leave to return to his Court, and intended embarkation — and the orders of his Court to make the following communication, viz : That his Majesty was pleased at the alteration which had taken place in our Government, and congratulated this Country on the choice they had made of a Presid't. He added that he should take care to make a favourable representation of the present state of things here to his Master, who, he doubted not, would be much pleased there- with. Hitherto he observed that the Government of this Country had been of so fluctuating a nature, no dependence could be placed on its proceedings ; wh'h caused foreign nations to be cautious of entering into Treaties, &c, with the United States. But under the present Government there is a head to look up to — and power being put into the hands of its officers, stability will be derived from its doings. The visiters this evening to Mrs. Washington were re- spectable, both of gentlemen and ladies. Saturday, 10th. Pursuant to an engagement formed on Thursday last, I set off about 9 o'clock in my barge to visit Mr. Prince's fruit gardens and shrubberies at Flushing, on Long Island. The Vice-President, Governor of the State, Mr. Izard, Col 0, Smith, and Majr. Jackson accompanied me. east side of Greenwich-street, extending about three squares up fronj Harrison-street. 18 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. These gardens, except in the number of young fruit trees, did not answer ray expectations. The shrubs were trifling, and the flowers not numerous. The inhabitants of this place shewed us what respect they could, by making the best use of one cannon to salute. On our return we stopped at the seats of General and Mr. Gouvernr. Morris, and viewed a barn, of which I have heard the latter speak much, belonging to his farm — but it was not of a construction to strike my fancy — nor did the conveniences of it at all answer their cost. From hence we proceeded to Harlaem, where we were met by Mrs, Washington, Mrs. Adams and Mrs. Smith. Dined at the tavern kept by a Capt. Mariner, 10 and came home in the evening. Sunday, 11th. At home all day — writing private letters. Monday, 12th. Received the compliments of the Count de Penthere, commanding his most Christian Majesty's Squadron in the harbour of Boston — these were sent by the Marquis de Tra- versy in the Active Frigate ; who, with all his officers were presented by the French Minister at one o'clock. 10 Captain Marriner was an eccentric character, and was associated with Captain Hyler in whale-b<>at warfare in the vicinity of New York, during a part of the ^Revolution. On one occasion he was concerned in an attempt to capture Mayor Mathews and other violent Tories, who resided at Flatbush, near Brooklyn. Marriner lived at Harlem and ou Ward's Island, for many years after the war, and kept a tavern at eaclj place. DIARY OF WASHINGTON. 19 Tuesday, 13th. At two o'clock received the Address from the People called Quakers. A good many gentlemen attended the Levee this day. Wednesday, 14th. "Wrote several letters to France, and about V o'clock in the afternoon made an informal visit with Mrs. Washington to the Count de Moustier and Madame de Brehan, to take leave of them. Into the hands of the former I committed these letters, viz : to the Count de Estaing, Count de Ro- chambeau, the Marqs. de la Fayette and the Marqs. de la Rouirie. Having resolved to write to Mr. Gouvr. Morris, to request as a private agent that he w T d. sound the intention of the British Ministry with respect to their fulfilment of the Treaty — and dispositions towards a Commercial Treaty with us, the letters were prepared and lodged in the hands of Mr. Jay to forward. Thursday, loth. Commenced my Journey about 9 o'clock for Boston and a tour through the Eastern States. The Chief Justice, Mr. Jay — and the Secretaries of the Treasury and War Departments accompanied me some dis- tance out of the city. About 10 o'clock it began to Rain, and continued to do so till 11, when we arrived at the house of one Hoyatt, who keeps a Tavern at Kings-bridge, where we, that is, Major Jackson, Mr. Lear and myself, with six servants, which composed my Retinue, dined 20 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. After dinner, through frequent light showers we proceecTd to the Tavern of a Mrs. Haviland at Rye ; who keeps a very neat and decent Inn. The Road for the greater part, indeed the whole way, was very rough and stoney, but the Land strong, well cov- ered with grass and a luxuriant crop of Indian Corn inter- mixed with Pornpions (which were yet ungathered) in the fields. We met four droves of Beef Cattle for the New York Market, (about 30 in a drove) some of which were very fine — also a flock of Sheep for the same place. We scarcely passed a farm house that did not abd. in Geese. Their Cattle seemed to be of a good quality, and their hog? large, but rather long legged. No dwelling house is seen without a Stone or Brick Chimney, and rarely any with- out a shingled roof —generally the sides are of shingles also. The distance of this day's travel was 31 miles, in which we passed through (after leaving the Bridge) East Chester, New Rochelle, and Mamaroneck; but as these places (though they have houses of worship in them) are not regu- larly laid out, they are scarcely to be distinguished from the intermediate farms, which are very close together — and separated, as one Inclosure from another also is, by fences of stone, which are indeed easily made, as the country is immensely stoney. Upon enquiry we find their crops of Wheat and Rye have been abundant — though of the first they had sown rather sparingly on acct. of the destruction which had of late years been made of that grain by what is called the Hessian fly. 11 11 A small two-winged fly or midge, which has long been very de- structive to young wheat in the United States. It lias now almost dis- DIARY OF WASHINGTON. 21 Friday, 16th. About 1 o'cloek we left the Widow Haviland's, and after passing Horse Neck, six miles distant from Rye, the Road through which is hilly and immensely stoney, and trying to Wheels and Carriages, we breakfasted at Stamford, which is 6 miles further, (at one Webb's,) a tolerable good house, but not equal in appearance or reality to Mrs. Havi- land's. In this Town are an Episcopal Church and a meet- ing house. At Norwalk, which is ten miles further, we made a halt to feed our Horses. To the lower end of this town Sea Vessels come, and at the other end are Mills, Stores, and an Episcopal and Presbiterian Church. From hence to Fairfield, where we dined and lodged, is 12 miles; and part of it very rough Road, but not equal to that thro' Horse Neck. The superb Landscape, however, which is to be seen from the meeting house of the latter is a rich regalia. We found all the Farmers busily employed in gathering, grinding, and expressing the Juice of their apples ; the crop of which they say is rather above medioc- rity. The average crop of Wheat they add, is about 15 bushels to the acre from their fallow land — often 20, and from that to 25. The Destructive evidences of British cruelty are yet visible both in Norwalk and Fairfield ; aa there are the chimneys of many burnt houses standing in them yet' 2 The principal export from Norwalk and Fair- appeared. It was a common opinion that it was brought from Europe by the Hessians, as the German troops were called, who came over in the pay of Great Britain, in 1776. 12 These, with Danbuay, were desolated by a force of British, Hes- sians, and Tories, under Governor Tryon, in 1777. 22 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON. field is Horses and Cattle — salted Beef and Pork — Lumber and Indian Corn, to the West Indies, and in a small degree Wheat and Flour. Saturday, l'Tth. A little after sun-rise we left Fairfield, and passing through Et. Fairfield breakfasted at Stratford, wch. is ten miles from Fairfield, and is a pretty village on or near Strat- ford Rivr. The Road between these two places is not on the whole bad (for this country) — in some places very gd., especially through Et. Fairfield, wch. is in a plain, and free from stone. There are two decent looking Churches in this place, though small, viz : an Episcopal, and Presbyterian or Con- gregationalist (as they call themselves). At Stratford there is the same. At this place I was received with an effort of Military parade ; and was attended to the Ferry, which is near a mile from the center of the Town, by sevl. Gen- tlemen on horseback. Doctr. Johnson 13 of the Senate, vis- ited me here, being with Mrs. Johnson in this Town, (where he formerly resided). The Ferry is near half a mile ; and sometimes much incommoded by winds and cross tides. The navigation for vessels of about 75 Tons extends up to Danby, ten miles higher, where it is said there is a pretty brisk trade. At Stratford they are estab- 13 William Samuel Johnson, ll. d., who was a member of the "Stamp Act Congress," held at New York, in 1705, and was active in public lit'r for about forty years. He was a member of the convention that framed the Federal Constitution ; was the first Senator from Connec- ticut in the new Congress ; and was President of Columbia College from 1792 until 1S00. DIARY OF WASHINGTON. 23 lisliing a manufactory of Duck, and have lately turned out about 400 bolts. From the Ferry it is abt. 3 miles to Milford, which is situated in more uneven and stony grd. than the 3 last villages through web. we passed. In this place there is but one Church, or in other words, but one steeple — but there are Grist and Saw mills, and a handsome Cascade over the Tumbling dam ; but one of the prettiest things of this kind is at Stamford, occasioned also by dam- ming the water for their mills ; it is near 100 yds. in width, and the water now being of a proper height, and the rays of the sun striking upon it as we passed, had a pretty effect upon the foaming water as it fell. From Milford we took the lower road through West haven, part of which was good and part rough, and arrived at New Haven before two o'clock ; we had time to walk through several parts of the City before Dinner. By taki g the lower Road we missed a Committee of the Assembly, who had been appointed to wait upon and escort me into town — to prepare an address — and to conduct me when I should leave the City as tar as they should judge proper. The address was presented at V o'clock — and at nine I received another address from the Congregational Clergy of the place. Between the rect. of the two addresses I received the Compliment of a visit from the Govr. Mr. Huntington — the Lieut. Govr. Mr. Wolcott — and the Mayor, Mr. Roger Sherman. The City of Newdiaven occupies a good deal of ground, but is thinly, though regularly laid out and built. The number of Souls in it are said to be about 4000. There is an Episcopal Church and 3 Congregational Meeting Houses and a College, in which there are at this time about 120 24 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. Students under auspices of Doctr. Styles. The Harbour of this place is not good for large vessels — abt. 16 belong to it. The Linnen manufacture does not appear to be of so much importance as I had been led to believe. In a word, I could hear but little of it. The Exports from this City are much the same as from Fairfield, &c, and flax seed, (chiefly to New York). The Road from Kingsb ridge to this place runs as near the Sound as the Bays and Inlets will allow, but from hence to Hartford it leaves the Sound and runs more to the Northward. Sunday, 18th. Went in the forenoon to the Episcopal Church, and in the afternoon to one of the Congregational Meeting- Houses. Attended to the first by the Speaker of the As- sembly, Mr. Edwards, and a Mr. Ingersoll, and to the latter by the Governor, the Lieut. Governor, the Mayor, and Speaker. These Gentlemen all dined with me, (by invitation,) as did Genl. Huntington, at the House of Mr. Brown, where I lodged, and who keeps a good Tavern. Drank Tea at the Mayor's (Mr. Sherman). Upon further enquiry I find that there has been abt. yards of coarse Linnen manu- factured at this place since it was established — and that a Glass work is on foot here for the manufacture of Bottles. At 7 o'clock in the evening many Officers of this State, be- longing to the late Continental army, called to pay their respects to me. By some of them it was said that the peo- ple of this State could, with more ease pay an additional 100,000£. tax this year than what was laid last year. DIARY OF WASHINGTON. 25 Monday, 19th. Left New-haven at 6 o'clock, and arrived at Wallingford (13 miles) by half after 8 o'clock, where we breakfasted, and took a walk through the Town. In coming to it we passed thro' East Haven about midway ; after riding along the river of that name 6 miles, on which are extensive marshes now loaded with hay stacks — the ride is very pleasant, but the Road is sandy, which it continues to be within a mile of the Tavern (Carrington's, which is but an ordinary house,) at Wallingford. This and about five miles of the Road beyond — that is west of New-haven — is all the sand we have met with on the journey. These Sandy lands afford but ordinary Crops of Corn — nor have the Crops of this grain East of Stratford River appeared as heavy as on the West side of it. The Lands (Stone being less) arc in part enclosed with Posts and Rails. At this place (Walling- ford) we see the white Mulberry growing, raised from the seed, to feed the silkworm. AVe also saw samples of lus- tring (exceeding good) which had been manufactured from the Cocoon raised in this Town, and silk thread very fine. This, except the weaving, is the work of private families, without interference with other business, and is likely to turn out a beneficial amusement. In the Township of Mansfield they are further advanced in this business. Wal- lingford has a Church and two meeting houses in it, which stand upon high and pleasant grd. About 10 o'clock we left this place, and at the distance of 8 miles passed through Durham. At one we arrived at Middletown, on Connecti- cut River, being met two or three miles from it by the re- 26 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. spectable Citizens of the place, and escorted in by them. While dinner -was getting ready I took a walk round the Town, from the heights of which the prospect is beautiful. Belonging to this place, I was informed (by a Genl. Sage) that there were about 20 sea vessels, and to Weathersfield, higher up, 22 — and to Hartford the like number — other places on the River have their proportion, — the whole amounting to about 10,000 Tons. The Country hereabouts is beautiful and the Lands good. An average Crop of wheat from an acre of fallowed land is estimated at 15 bushels; sometimes they get as high as 25 and 30 bushs. to the acre from the best lands. Indian Corn from 20 to 40 bushls. pr. acre. Their exports are the same as from other places ; together with Potash. Having dined, we set out with the same Escort (who con- ducted us into town) about 3 o'clock for Hartford, and pass- ing through a Parish of Middletown and Weathersfield, we arrived at Harfd. about sundown. At Weathersfield we were met by a party of the Hartford light horse, and a number of Gentlemen from the same place with Col * Wads- worth at their head, and escorted to Bull's Tavern, where we lodged. Tuesday, 20th. After breakfast, accompanied by Col * Wadsworth, Mr. Ellsworth and Col 0- Jesse Root, I viewed the Woollen Manufactory at this place, which seems to be going on with spirit. Their Broadcloths are not of the first quality, as yet, but they are good; as are their Coatings, Cassimeres, Serges and Everlastings ; of the first, that is, broad-cloth, I NORTHERN TOUR. 27 ordered a suit to be sent to me at New York — and of the latter a whole piece, to make breeches for my servants. All the parts of this business are performed at the Manufactory except the spinning — this is done by the Country people, who are paid by the cut. Hartford is more compactly built than Middletown, and contains more souls ; the computed number of which amount to about dble. The number of Houses in Middletown are said to be 250 or 60 — these reckoning eight persons to a house, would make two thousand at least. The depth of water which Vessels can bring to the last place, is about ten feet ; and is as much as there is over Saybrook bar. From Middletown to Hartford there is not more than 6 feet water. At Middletown there is one Episcopal and two Con- gregational Churches. In Hartford there is none of the first and 2 of the latter. Dined and drank Tea at Col"' Wadsworth's, and about V o'clock received from, and answered the Address of, the Town of Hartford. Wednesday, 21st. By promise I was to have Breakfasted at Mr. Ellsworth's at Windsor, on my way to Springfield, but the morning proving very wet, and the rain not ceasing till past 10 o'clock, I did not set out till half after that hour ; I called, however, on Mr. Ellsworth and stay'd there near an hour — reached Springfield by 4 o'clock, and while dinner was get- ting, examined the Continental Stores at this place, which I found in very good order at the buildings (on the hill above the Town) which belong to the United States. 28 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. The Barracks (also public property) are going fast to de- struction, and in a little time will be no more, without re- pairs. The Elaboratory, wch. seems to be a good building, is in tolerable good repair, and the Powder Magazine, which is of Brick, seems to be in excellent order, and the Powder in it very dry. A Col 0- Worthington, Col - Williams, Ad- jutant General of the State of Massachusetts, Gen. Shep- herd, Mr. Lyman, and many other Gentlemen sat an hour or two with me in the evening at Parson's Tavern, where I lodged, and which is a good House. About 6 miles before I came to Springfield, I left the State of Connecticut, and entered that of Massachusetts. The Distance from Hart- ford to Springfield is 28 miles — both on Connecticut River. At the latter the River is crossed in Scows set over with Poles, and is about 80 rod wide. Between the two places is a fall, and ten miles above Springfield is another fall, and others above that again — notwithstanding which much use is made of the navigation for transportation in flats of about five tons burthen. Seven miles on this side Hartford is Windsor, a tolerable pleasant but not a large village. Be- tween Windsor and Suffield you pass through a level, bar- ren and uncultivated plain for several miles. Suffield stands high and pleasant — the Ld. good. From hence you descend again into another plain, where the lands being good are much better cultivated. The whole Road from Hartford to Springfield is level and good, except being too sandy in places — and the Fields enclosed with Posts and Rails generally, there not being much stone. The Crops of Corn, except on the Interval Lands on the River, are more indifferent (tho' not bad) in the Eastern than we NORTHERN TOUR. 29 found them in the Western part of the State of Connec- ticut. There is a great equality in tlse People of this State Few or no opulent men — and no poor — great similitude in their buildings — the general fashion of which is a Chimney (always of Stone or Brick) and door in the middle, with a stair case fronting the latter, running up by the side of the latter [former?] — two flush stories with a very good show of sash and glass windows — the size generally is from 30 to 50 feet in length, and from 20 to 30 in width, exclusive of a back shed, which seems to be added as the family in- creases. The farms, by the contiguity of the Houses, are small, not averaging more than 100 acres. These are worked chiefly by oxen, (which have no other feed than hay,) with a horse and sometimes two before them, both in Plow and Cart. In their light lands and in their sleighs they work Horses, but find them much more expensive than oxen. Springfield is on the East side of Connecticut River ; be- fore you come to which a large branch of it called Agawam is crossed by a Bridge. It stands under the Hill on the interval Land, and has only one Meeting house — 28 miles frm. Hartfd. Thursday, 22d. Set out at 7 o'clock ; and for the first 8 miles rid over an almost uninhabited Pine plain ; much mixed with sand. Then a little before the road descends to Chicopee river it is hilly, rocky and steep, and continues so for several miles ; the Country being Stony and Barren ; with a mix- 30 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. ture of Pine and Oak till we came to Palmer, at the House of one Scott, where we breakfasted ; and where the land, though far from good, began to mend ; to this is called 15 miles — among these Pines, are Ponds of fresh water. From Palmer to Brookfield, to one Hitchcock's, is 15 miles ; part of which is pretty good, and part (crossing the Hills) very bad ; but when over, the ground begins to get tolerably good and the Country better cultivated, tho' the Crops of Corn do not look well and have been injured, it is said, by an early frost in September. A beautiful fresh water pond and large, is in the Plain of Brookland. [Brookfield ?] The fashion of the Houses are more di- versified than in Connecticut, though many are built in their style. The Inclosures have but indifferent fences ; wood or stone according as the Country abounds with the latter — of which it is full after passing the pine levels. At Brookland [Brookfield] we fed the Horses and dispatched an Express which was sent to me by Govr. Hancock — giv- ing notice of the measures he was about to pursue for my reception on the Road, and in Boston — with a request to lodge at his House. Continued on to Spencer, 10 miles further, through pretty good roads, and lodged at the House of one Jenks, who keeps a pretty good Tavern. Friday, 23d. Commenced our course with the Sun, and passing through Leicester, met some Gentlemen of the Town of Worcester, on the line between it and the former to escort us. Arrived about 1 o'clock at the House of • where NORTHERN TOUR. 31 we breakfasted — distant from Spencer 12 miles. Here we were received by a handsome Company of Militia Artillery in Uniform, who saluted with 13 Guns on our Entry and departure. At this place also we met a Committee from the Town of Boston, and an Aid of Majr. Genl. Brooks, of the Middlesex Militia, who had proceeded to this place in order to make some arrangements of Military and other Parade on my way to, and in the Town of, Boston ; and to fix with me on the hours at which I should pass through Cambridge, and enter Boston. Finding this ceremony was not to be avoided, though I had made every effort to do it, I named the hour of ten to pass the Militia of the above County at Cambridge — and the hour of 1 2 for my entrance into Boston, desiring Major Hale, however, to inform Genl. Brooks 14 that as I conceived there was an impropriety in my reviewing the Militia, or seeing them perform manoeu- vres, otherwise than as a private man, I could do no more than pass along the line ; which, if he thought proper, might be under arms to receive me at that time. These matters being settled, the Committee and the Aid (Col 0- Uale) set forward on their return — and after breakfast I followed. The same Gentlemen who had escorted me into, conducting me out of Town. On the Line between Wor- cester and Middlesex I was met by a Troop of light Horse 11 John Brooks was an active military officer in the Massachusetts line, during the whole war tor independence, he was major-general of the militia of his county for many years; and when the war with England commenced in 1812, he was appointed adjutant-general of Massachusetts. He was elected Governor of that State in 1816, and was continued in office, by re-election, seven years. 32 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. belonging to the latter, who Escorted me to Marlborough, (,16 miles) where we dined, and thence to Weston (14 more where we lodged.) At Marlborough Ave met Mr. Jonathan Jackson, the Marshall of this State, who proposed to attend me whilst I remained in it. A good part of the Road from Spencer to Worcester is Hilly, and except a little nearest the latter, very stoney. From Worcester to Marlborough the road is uneven but not bad — and from Marlborh. to Weston it is leveller, with more sand. Between Worces- ter and Marlborough the Town of Shrewsbury is passed — and between Marlborough and Weston you go through Sudbury. The Country about Worcester and onwards towards Boston is better improved and the lands of better quality than we travelled through yesterday. The Crops it is said have been good. Indian Corn, Rye, Buckwheat and grass — with Beef, Cattle and Pork, are the produce of their Farms. Saturday, 24th. Dressed by Seven o'clock, and set out at eight — at ten we arrived in Cambridge, according to appointment ; but most of the Militia having a distance to come, were not in line till after eleven ; they made however an excellent ap- pearance, with Genl. Brooks at their Head. At this place the Lieut. Govr. Mr. Saml. Adams, with the Executive Council, met me and preceeded my entrance into town — which was in every degree flattering and honorable. To pass over the Minutiae of the arrangement for this purpose, it may suffice to say that at the entrance I was welcomed by the Selectmen in a body. Then following the Lieut't. NORTHERN TOUR. 33 Govr. and Council in the order we came from Cambridge, (preceeded by the Town Corps, very handsomely dressed,) we passed through the Citizens classed in their different professions, and under their own banners, till we came to the State House ; from which across the Street an Arch was thrown ; in the front of which was this Inscription — " To the Man who unites all hearts" — and on the other — "To Columbia's favorite Son"— and on one side thereof next the State House, in a pannel decorated with a trophy, composed of the Arms of the United States — of the Com- monwealth of Massachusetts — and our French Allies, crowned with a wreath of Laurel, was this Inscription — "Boston relieved March 17th, 1776." This Arch was handsomely ornamented, and over the Center of it a Cano- py was erected 20 feet high, with the American Eagle perched on the top. After passing through the Arch, and entering the State House at the S°- End and ascending to the upper floor and returning to a Balcony at the N°- End ; three cheers was given by a vast concourse of people who by this time had assembled at the Arch — then followed an ode composed in honor of the President ; and well sung by a band of select singers— after this three Cheers— followed by the different Professions and Mechanics in the order they were drawn up with their colours through a lane of the People, which had thronged abt.the Arch under which they passed. The Streets, the Doors, windows and tops of the Houses were crowded with well dressed Ladies and Gentlemen. The procession being over, I was conducted to my lodgings at a Widow Ingersoll's, (which is a very decent and good house) by the Lieut. Govr. and Council — 34: DIAKY OF WASHINGTON. accompanied by the Vice-President, where they took leave of me. Having engaged yesterday to take an informal dinner with the Govr. to-day, but under a full persuasion that he would have waited upon me so soon as I should have arrived — I excused myself upon his not doing it, and informing me thro' his Secretary that he was too much indisposed to do it, being resolved to receive the visit. Dined at my Lodgings, where the Vice-President favoured me with his Company. Sunday, 25th. Attended Divine Service at the Episcopal Church, where- of Doctor Parker is the Incumbent, in the forenoon, and the Congregational Church of Mr. Thatcher in the after- noon. Dined at my Lodgings with the Vice-President. Mr. Bowdoin accompanied me to both Churches. Between the two I received a visit from the Gov'r, who assured me that indisposition alone prevented his doing it yesterday, and that he was still indisposed ; but as it had been sug- gested that he expected to receive the visit from the Presi- dent, which he knew was improper, he was resolved at all haz'ds to pay his Compliments to-day. The Lt. Gov'r and two of the Council, to wit, Heath and Russell, were sent here last night to express the Govr.'s concern that he had not been in a condition to call upon me so soon as I came to Town. I informed them in explicit terms that I should not see the Gov'r unless it was at my own lodgings. 15 15 The conduct of Mr. Hancock on this occasion was severely cen- mired, because it was generally believed that his sense of his own dig- nity as chief magistrate of Massachusetts, and not bodily illness, was NORTHERN TOUR. 35 Monday, 26th. The day being Rainy and Stormy, myself much disor- dered bv a cold, and inflammation in the left eye, 16 I was prevented from visiting Lexington, (where the first blood m the dispute with G. Brit'n was drawn.) Rec'd the com- plim'ts of many visits to-day. Mr. Dal ton and Genl. Cobb dined with me, and in the Evening drank Tea with Gov'r Hancock, and called upou Mr. Bowdoin on my return to my lodgings. Tuesday, 27th. At 10 o'clock in the Morning received the visits of the the cause of his omitting to call upon the President immediately after his arrival. The rebuke of official pride administered by Washington in his refusal to see Governor Hancock, except at the President's lodg- ings, appears to have decided the question of superior dignity in the mind of the Governor. For further illustration of this matter, see Governor Hancock's letters to Washington, dated respectively October 21st, and October 23d, 1789, in Sparks' Correspondence of the Revolution, Volume IV., pages 289-'90. In the first, he invited Washington to stay at his house, and said, "I could wish that the accommodations were better suited to a gentleman of your respectability;" and in the second, written after Washington had declined his invitation, Governor Hancock invited him to dine with him on Sunday, " en famille." He appears to have had his heart set on having the President call on him first. 18 Sullivan, in his " Familiar Letters," says, that owing to some mis- management in the reception ceremonials at Cambridge, Washington was detained a long time, and the weather being inclement, he took cold. For several days afterward a severe influenza prevailed at Bos- ton, and its vicinity, and was called the Washington Influenza. It may not be inappropriate to mention that when, in 1843, President Tyler visited Boston, a similar influenza prevailed at New York, and through- out New England, which was called the Tyler G-rippe. 36 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. Clergy of the Town. At 1 1 went to an Oratorio — and be- tween that and 3 o'clock rec'd the Addresses of the Gover- nor and Council — of the Town of Boston — of the Presi- dent, 04 The Nottaway river. This with the Meherrin, tonus the Chowan River, that empties into Albemarle Sound. 170 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. soon have made the Ho. I was in too noizy to be agreeable. — I had not however rode two miles before it began to be stormy, & to rain violently which, with some intervals, it contind. to do the whole afternoon.— The uncomfortable- ncss of it, for Men & Horses, would have induced me to put up ; but the only Inn short of Hallifax having no stables in wch. the horses could be comfortable, & no Rooms or beds which appeared tolerable, & every thing else having a dirty appearance, I was compelled to keep on to Hallifax ; 27 miles from Andrews — 48 from Olivers — and 75 from Pe- tersburgh — At this place (i. e. Hallifax) I arrived about six o'clock, after crossing the Roanoke ; on the South bank of which it stands. This River is crossed in flat Boats which take in a Car- riage & four horses at once. — At this time, being low, the water was not rapid but at times it must be much so, as it frequently overflows its banks which appear to be at least 25 ft. perpendicular height. The lands upon the River appear rich, & the low grounds of considerable width — but those which lay between the different Rivers — namely Appamattox, Nottaway, Meherrin and Roanoke are all alike flat, poor & covered principal)* with pine timber. It has already been observed that before the Rain fell, I was travelling in a continued cloud of dust — but after it had rained some time, the Scene was reversed, and my pas- sage was through water; so level are the Roads. From Petersburg to Hallifax (in sight of the Road) are but few good Houses, with small appearances of wealth. — The lands are cultivated in Tobacco — Corn, — Wheat & SOI THERN TOUK. 171 Oats, but Tobacco & the raising of Porke for market, seems to be the principal dependence of the Inhabitants; especially towards the Roanoke. — Cotton & Flax are also raised but not extensively. Hallifax is the first town I came to after passing the line between the two States, and is about 20 miles from it. — To this place vessels by the aid of Oars & Setting poles are brought for the produce which comes to this place, and others along the River ; and may be carried 8 or 10 miles higher to the falls which are neither great nor of much ex- tent; — above these (which are called the great falls) there are others; but none but what may with a little improve- ment be passed. This town stands upon high ground ; and it is the reason given fir not placing it at the head of the navigation there being none but low ground between it and the falls — It seems to be in a decline & does not it is said contain a thousand Souls. Sunday, 17th. Col 0- Ashe 105 the Representative of the district in which this town stands, and several other Gentlemen called upon, and invited me to partake of a dinner which the Inhab- itants were desirous of seeing me at & excepting it dined with them accordingly. 105 John B. Ashe, a soldier of the Kevolution under Gen. Greene, a member of the Continental Congress in 1787, a representative of the Federal Congress from 1790 to 1793, and afterwards elected governor of the State. He died before entering upon the duties of the office. 172 DIAEY OF WASHINGTON. Monday, 18th. Set out by six o'clock — dined at a small house kept by one Slaughter, 22 Miles from Hallifax and lodged at Tar borough 14 Miles further. This place is less than Hallifax, but more lively and thriving; — it is situated on Tar River which goes into Pamplico Sound and is crossed at the Town by means of a bridge a great height from the water, and notwithstanding the freshes rise sometimes nearly to the arch. — Corn, Porke, and some Tar are the exports from it. — We were reed, at this place by as good a salute as could be given by one piece of artillery. Tuesday, 19th. At 6 o'clock I left Tarborough accompanied by some of the most respectable people of the place for a few miles — dined at a trifling place called Greenville 25 miles distant — and lodged at one Allans 14 miles further a very indif- ferent house without stabling which for the first time since I commenced my Journey were obliged to stand with- out a cover. Greenville is on Tar River and the exports the same as from Tarborough with a greater proportion of Tar — for the lower down the greater number of Tar makers are there — This article is contrary to all ideas one would entertain on the subject, rolled as Tobacco by an axis which goes through both heads — one horse draws two barrels in this manner. SOUTHERN TOUR. 173 Wednesday, 20th. Left Allans before breakfast, & under a misapprehension went to a Col 0- Allans, supposing it to be public Louse ; where we were very kindly & well entertained without knowing it was at his expenee, until it was too late to rec- tify the mistake. — After breakfasting, & feeding our horses here, we proceeded on & crossing the River Neuse 11 miles further, arrived in Newbern to dinner. At this ferry which is 10 miles from Newbern, we were met by a small party of Horse ; the district Judge (Mr. Sitgreave) 106 and many of the principal Inhabitants of New- bern, who conducted us into town to exceeding good lodg- ings — It ought to have been mentioned that another small party of horse under one Simpson met us at Greensville, and in spite of every endeavor which could comport with decent civility, to excuse myself from it, they would attend me to Newbern. — Col 0, Allan did the same. This town is situated at the confluence of the Rivers Neuse & Trent, and though low is pleasant. Vessels draw- ing more than 9 feet water cannot get up loaded. — It stands on a good deal of ground, but the buildings are sparce and altogether of Wood ; — some of which are laro-e & look well — The number of Souls are about 2000. — Its exports consist of Corn, Tobacco, Pork, — but principally of Naval Stores [ 5 Noble Wiinberly Jones, Joseph Habersham, John Houston, Lachlin Mcintosh, and Joseph Clay, all eminent patriots during the Revolution. 118 The State of Georgia gave General Nathaniel Greene quite a large tract of land in testimony of appreciation for his services in the South- ern campaigns of the Revolution. He went to Georgia in 1785, to look after his estate ; while walking one day, in June, 1786, without an um- brella, he was " sun struck," and died on the 19th of that month, at the age of forty-six years. His widow occupied the property until her death. There, under the roof of that hospitable lady, in 1792 or '93, Eli Whitney, the inventor of the cotton-gin, plan- ned and constructed his first machine ; and at that home, in 1807, the daughter of General Greene, received the brass cannon, captured at Eutaw Springs, which Congress voted to her gallant father. SOUTHERN TOUK. 187 hours making the passage which is often performed in 4, tho' the computed distance is 25 miles — Illumns. at night. I was conducted by the Mayor & Wardens to very good lodging which had been provided for the occasion, and par- took of a public dinner given by the Citizens at the Coffee Room. — At Purisburgh I parted with Genl. Moultree. Friday, 13th. Dined with the Members of the Cincinnati at a public dinner given at the same place — and in the evening went to a dancing Assembly at which there was about 100 well dressed & handsome ladies. Saturday, 14th. A little after 6 o'clock, in Company with Genl. Mcin- tosh, Genl. Wayne, the Mayor and many others (principal Gentlemen of the City,) I visited the City, and the attack & defence of it in the year 1779, under the combined forces of France and the United States, commanded by the Count de Estaing & Genl. Lincoln." 7 — To form an opinion cf the attack at this distance of time, and the change which has taken place in the appearance of the ground by the cutting away of the woods, &c. is hardly to be done with justice to the subject ; especially as there is remaining scarcely any of the defences. Dined to day with a number of the Citizens (not less 117 Traces of these lines of defence are still visible in the rear of tli« town. For an account of their appearance as late as 1848, sue Loss- ing's Pictorial Field Book of the Revolution., ii., 531, second edition. 1S8 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. than 200) in an elegant Bower erected for the occasion on the Bank of the River below the Town. — In the evening there was a tolerable good display of fireworks. Sunday, 15th. After morning Service, and receiving a number of visits from the most respectable ladies of the place (as was the case yesterday) I set out for Augusta, Escorted beyd. the limits of the City by most of the Gentlemen in it, and din- ing at Mulberry Grove the Seat of Mrs. Green, — lodged at one Spencers — distant 15 miles. Savanna stands upon what may be called high ground for this Country — It is extremely Sandy wch. makes the walking very disagreeable ; & the houses uncomfortable in warm & windy weather, as they are filled with dust when- ever these happen. — The town on 3 sides is surrounded with cultivated Rice fields which have a rich and luxuriant appearance. On the 4th or backside it is a fine sand. — The harbour is said to be very good, & often filled with square rigged vessels, but there is a bar below over which not more than 12 water can be brot. except at sprg. tides. — The tide does not flow above 12 or 14 miles above the City though the River is swelled by it more than double that distance. — Rice & Tobacco (the last of wch. is greatly increasing) are the principal Exports — Lumber & Indigo are also Exported, but the latter is on the decline, and it is supposed by Hemp & Cotton. — Ship timber, viz : live Oak & Cedar, is (and may be more so) valuable in the exptn. SOUTHERN TOUK. 189 Monday, 16th. Breakfasted at Kussells— 15 miles from Spencer's— dined at Garnets 19 further & lodged at Pierces 8 miles more, in all — 42 miles to day. Tuesday, 17 th. Breakfasted at Spinner's 17 miles— dined at Lamberts 13— and lodged at Waynesborough (web. was coming 6 miles out of our way) 14, in all 43 miles-Waynesborough is a small place, but the Seat of the Court of Burkes County— 6 or 8 dwelling houses is all it contains ;— an attempt is making (without much apparent effect) to establish an Academy at it as is the case also in all the Counties. Wednesday, 18th. Breakfasted at Tulcher's 15 miles from Waynesborough ; and within 4 miles of Augusta met the Govor. (Telfair), Judge Walton," 8 the Attorney Genl. & most of the princi- pal Gentlemen of the place; by whom I was escorted into the Town, & reed, under a discharge of Artillery— the distance I came to day was about 32 miles-Dined with a large Company at the Governors, & drank Tea there with many well dressed Ladies. The Road from Savanna to Augusta is, for the most • us George Walton, one of the signers of the Declaration of Inde- pendence. A fine monument stands in Augusta, erected to the mem- ory of Walton and his Georgia colleagues who signed that instrument. 100 DIAEY OF "WASHINGTON. part, through Pine barrens; but more uneven than I had been accustomed to since leavg. Petersburgh in Virginia, especially after riding about 30 miles from the City of that name ; here & there indeed, a piece of Oak land is passed on this Road, but of small extent & by no means of the first quality. Thursday, 19th. Received & answered an Address from the Citizens of Augusta; — dined with a large Company of them at their Court Ho. — and went to an Assembly in the evening at the Accadamy ; at which there were between 60 & 70 well dressed ladies. Friday, 20th. Viewed the Ruins, or rather small Remns. of the Works which had been erected by the British during the War and taken by the Americans. — Also the falls, which are about 2 miles above the Town ; — and the Town itself. These falls (as they are called) are nothing more than rapids. — They are passable in their present state by boats with skilful hands, but may at a very small expence be improved, by removing a few rocks only, to streighten the passage. — Above them there is good boat navigation for many miles ; by which the produce may be, & in some measure is, transported. — At this place, i. e. the falls, the good lands begin ; & encrease in quality to the westward & No.ward. — All below them, except the Interval lands on the Rivers and Rice Swamps which extend from them, the whole Country is a Pine barren. — The town of Augusta is SOUTHERN TOUR. 191 well laid out with wide & spacious Streets.— It stands on a large area of a perfect plain but it is not yet thickly built tho' surprizingly so for the time; for in 1783 there were not more than half a dozen dwelling houses ; now there are not less than containing about Souls of which about are blacks.— It bids fair to be a large Town being at the head of the present navigation, & a fine Country back of it for support, which is settling very fast by Tobacco planters.— The culture of which ar- ticle is encreaseing very fast, and bids fair to be the prin- cipal export from the State; from this part of it, it certain- ly will be so. Augusta, though it covers more ground than Savanna, does Tot contain as many Inhabitants the latter having by the late census between H & 1500 hundred whites and about 800 blacks. Dined at a private dinner with Govr. Telfair to day; and gave him dispatches for the Spanish Govr. of East Florida, respecting the Countenance given by that Governt. to the fugitive Slaves of the Union— wch. dispatches were to be forwarded to Mr. Seagrove, Collector of St. Mary's, who was requested to be the bearer of them, and instruct- ed to make arrangements for the prevention of these evils and, if possible, for the restoration of the property— especially of those slaves wch. had gone off since the orders of the Spanish Court, to discountenance this practice of reca:. them. 192 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. Saturday, 21st. Left Augusta about 6 o'clock, and takg. leave of the Governor & principal Gentlemen of the place at the bridge over Savanna River, where they had assembled for the purpose, I proceeded in Company with Col 08- Hampton 119 & Taylor, & Mr. Lithgow a committee from Columbia, (who had come on to meet & conduct me to that place) & a Mr. Jameson from the Village of Granby on my Rout. Dined at a house about 20 miles from Augusta and lodged at one Odem, about 20 miles farther. Sunday, 22d. Rode about 21 miles to breakfast, and passing through the village of Granby IM just below the first falls in the Con- garee (which was passed in a flat bottomed boat at a Rope ferry,) I lodged at Columbia, the newly adopted Seat of the Government of South Carolina about 3 miles from it, on the No. side of the River, and 27 from my breakfasting stage. The whole Road from Augusta to Columbia is a pine barren of the worst sort, being hilly as well as poor. — This circumstance added to the distance, length of the stages, 1,9 Colonel Wade Hampton, a meritorious officer in the Southern Army of the Revolution, and a commander on the northern frontier of New York in the War of 1812. 120 The site of Fort Granby, a dwelling fortified by the British, as a link in a chain of military posts from Camden to Charleston. It was captured by Colonel Lee, of the famous partisan " Legion," in May, 1781. SOUTH KEN TOUR. 193 want of water and heat of the day, foundered one of my horses very badly. Beyond Granby 4 miles I was met by sevl. Gentlemen of it nlace & Wynnsborough ; and on the banks of the No side by a number of others, who escorted !3d. Dined at a public dinnei ... ie State house with a num- ber of Gentlemen & Ladies of the Town of Columbia, & Country round about to the amt. of more than 150, of which 50 or 60 were of the latter. Tuesday, 24th. The condition of my foundered horse obliged me to remain at this place, contrary to my intention, this day also. large scale ; but, in my on the River below the ood, with very few houses in it, and those all wooden ones — The State House (which is also of wood) is a large and commodious building, but unfinished — The Town is on dry, but cannot be called high ground, and though surrounded by Piney & Sandy land is, itself, good — The State house is near two miles from the River, at the confluence of the Broad River & Saluda. — From Granby the River is navigable for Craft which will, when the River is a little swelled, carry 3000 bushels of Grain — when at its usual heighth less, and always some. — The River from hence to the Wateree below which it takes 194 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. the name of the Santee is very crooked ; 121 it "being, ac- cording to the computed distance near 400 miles — Colum- bia from Charleston is 130 miles. Wednesday, 25th. Set out at 4 o'clock for Camden — (the foundered horse being led slowly on) — breakfasted at an indifferent house 22 miles from the town, (the first we came to) and reached Camden about two o'clock, 14 miles further, when an address was reed. «fc answered. — Dined (late with a number of Gentlemen & Ladies at a public dinner. — The Road from Columbia to Camden, excepting a mile or two at each place, goes over the most miserable pine barren I ever saw, being quite a white sand, & very hilly. — On the Wateree within a mile & half of which the town stands the lands are very good, — they Culture Corn, Tobacco & Indigo. — Vessels carrying 50 or 60 Hhds. of Tobo. come up to the Ferry at this place at which there is a Tobacco Whare- house. Thursday, 26th. After viewing the british works about Camden I set out for Charlotte — on my way — two miles from Town — I ex- amined the ground on wch. Genl. Green & Lord Rawdon had their action. 122 — The ground had but just been taken 121 At Buck's Head Neck, near Fort Motto, just above the junction of ■the Congaree and Wateree (which form the Santee), the Congaree makes a sweep of eight miles and approaches itself to within the dis- tance of a quarter of a mile. ««> On Hobkirk's Hill, April 25, 1781. SOUTHERN TOUR. 195 by the former — was well chosen — but he not well estab- lished in it before he was attacked ; which by capturing a Videt was, in some measure by surprise — Six miles further on I came to the ground where Genl. Gates & Lord Corn- wallis had their Engagement wch. terminated so unfavour- ably for the former. 1 -' 3 — As this was a night meeting of both Armies on their march, & altogether unexpected each formed on the ground they met without any advantage in it on either side it being level & open.— Had Genl. Gates been % a mile further advanced, an impenetrable Swam}) would have prevented the attack which was made on him by the British Army, and afforded him time to have formed his own plans ; but having no information of Lord Corn- w T allis's designs, and perhaps not being apprised of this ad- vantage it was not seized by him. Camden is a small place with appearances of some new buildings. — It was much injured by the British whilst in their possession. 1 - 1 After halting at one Sutton's 14 m. from Camden I lodged at James Ingrains 1 2 miles father. "3 On the north side of Sanders's Creek, August 16, 1780. The two generals were approaching each other in the night, along a road filled with deep sand ; and neither of them had any knowledge of the fact, until their advanced guards came in contact. The battle occurred early in the morning. is* Lord Kawdon, the British commander there, alarmed for the safety of his forts in the lower country, set fire to Camden on the 10th of May, 1781, and retreated down the Santee. 196 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON. Friday, 27th. Left Ingrains about 4 o'clock, and breakfasting at one Barr's 18 miles distant lodged at Majr. Crawford's 8 miles farther — About 2 miles from this place I came to the Cor- ner where the No. Carolina line comes to the Rd. — from whence the Road is the boundary for 12 miles more. — At Majr. Crawfords I was met by some of the chiefs of the Catawba nation who seemed to be under apprehension that some attempts were making, or would be made to deprive them of part of the 40,000 Acres wch. Avas secured to them by Treaty and wch. is bounded by this Road. 1 ' 25 125 This is yet a reservation for the Catawba Indians, near the south east corner of Yorkville district, in South Carolina. It was originally larger than now. They were once a powerful tribe, but are dwindled to the most insignificant remnant. Their chief village was on the Catawba river, about twenty-rive miles from Yorkville. The following eloquent petition of Peter Harris, a Catawba warrior during the Eevolution, is preserved among the Colonial records at Columbia, South Carolina. It is dated, 1822 : " I am one of the lingering survivors of an almost extinguished race. Our graves will soon be our only habitations. I am one of the few stalks that still remain in the field where the tempest of the Eevolution has passed. I fought against the British for your sake. The British have disappeared, and you are free ; yet from me have the British took nothing; nor have I gained any thing by their defeat. I pursued the deer for subsistence; the deer are disappearing, and I must starve. God ordained me for the forest, and my ambition is the shade. But the strength of my arm decays, ami my feet fail me in the chase. The hand which fought for your liberties is now open for your relief. In my youth I bled in battle, that you might be independent ; let not my heart in my old age bleed for the want of your commiseration." SOUTHERN TOUR. 197 Saturday, 28th. Sett off from Crawfords by 4 o'clock and breakfasting at one Harrison's 18 miles from it got into Charlotte 13 miles further, before 3 oclock, — dined with Genl. Polk and a small party invited by him, at a Table prepared for the purpose. 128 It was not, until I had got near Barrs that I had quit the Piney 32 This entry closes this volume of the Diary. The President reach- ed Mount Vernon on the 12th of June, having made a most satisfac- tory journey of more than seventeen hundred miles, from his seat on the Potomac, in sixty-six days, with the same team of horses. " My return to this place is sooner than I expected," he wrote to Hamilton, " owing to the uninterruptedness of my journey by sickness, from bad weather, or accidents of any kind whatsoever," for which he had made an allowance of eight days. WASHINGTON'S JOURNAL OF A TOUR TO THE OHIO, IN 1753. With Notes by John G. Shea INTRODUCTION. The earliest of Washington's diaries, printed almost as soon a- its last page was written, possesses uncommon interest, from the fulness with which he describes the events of his journey, — a fulness for which we are indebted to the instructions of Gov- ernor Dinwiddie. Washington was then twenty-one, but already a " person of distinction." Adjutant-general of the colonial troops, with the rank of major, to him was committed the northern division of the colony. His earlier exploration aa surveyor had brought him into contact with the Indians, and none seemed better to know and understand them ; while his early maturity, dignity, and judgment, fitted him for any important undertaking that did not require the experience of years. Affairs had reached a crisis. France had colonized Canada, Illinois, and Louisiana, and connected them by detached posts, but the possession of the Ohio, so necessary to the safety of her wide provincial power, was soon to fall into the hands of her rival by the rapid progress of English colonization. To set a barrier to its westward progress, France determined to run a line of forts from Niagara to the forks of the Ohio, and down that river. The Indians first took the alarm. When the tidings reached the Ohio that a French force was on its way to erect this line of forts, a council of the wandering tribes, Mingoes, Shawnees, 206 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. and Delawares, met at Logstown, and in April, 1753, dispatch- ed an envoy to Niagara, to protest against the action of the French. The protest was unheeded. Tanacharisson then went to Fort Presque Isle to meet Marin, and reported to Washington, as we shall see, the result of his fruitless mission. Pennsylvania then took the alarm, and Governor Hamilton in vain urged his assembly to check the French invasion of their frontiers, yet they appointed Norris their speaker, and Frank- lin, to meet at Carlisle a deputation from the tribes. There the Indian declared his will. The land was theirs. They wished neither English nor French to intrude. Yet as danger from the latter seemed more imminent, they were willing to help the English to expel the French. They did not see that it was but a change of masters, and if in the event English gar- risons replaced the French, the power of the latter was scarce- ly prostrated, when, in 1763, the long-smothered wrath of the baffled red man, swept the English from Forts Erie, Le Boeuf, and Venango, and burst in its might on Fort Pitt. Virginia, too, moved, and Washington, from his official posi- tion and his knowledge of the Indians, was selected by Gov- ernor Dinwiddie to proceed to the Ohio, demand the with- drawal of the French, and examine the condition of their forces. The following letter, recently come to light, and one of the few of that period of his career known, shows how he was engaged when chosen for the mission to the Ohio. "Winchester, Oct. 17, 1753. Honorable Sir : — Last night, by return of the express who went to Capt. Montour, I received the inclosed from Mr. Har- ris, at Susquehanna. I think no means should be neglected to preserve what few Indians still remain in our interest, for which reason I shall send Mr. Gist, as soon as he arrives, which I ex- pect will be to-day, to Harris' Ferry, in hopes of engaging and INTRODUCTION. 207 bringing with him the Belt of Wampum and other Indians at that place; and I shall further desire him to send an Indian express to Andrew Montour, to try if he can be brought along with him. In however trifling light the French attempting to alienate the affections of our Southern Indians may at first sight appear, I must look upon it as a thing of the utmost con- sequence', that requires our greatest and most immediate atten- tion. I have often wondered at not hearing that this was at- tempted before, and had it noted, among other memoranda, to acquaint your honor of when I should come down. The French policy in treating with Indians is so prevalent, that I should not be in the least surprised were they to engage the Cherokees, Cuttabas, &c, unless timely and vigorous measures are taken to prevent it. A pusillanimous behavior would ill suit the times, and trusting for traders and common interpreters (who will sell their integrity to the highest bidder) may prove the destruc- tion of these affairs. I therefore think, that if a person of dis- tinction, acquainted with their language, is to be found, his price should be come to at any rate; if no such can be had, a man of sense and character to conduct the Indians to any coun- cil that may be had, or to superintend any other matters, will be extremely necessary. It is impertinent, I own, in me to offer my opinions on these matters when better judges may direct; but my steady and hearty. zeal in the cause, and the great impositions I have known practised by the traders, &c, upon these occasions, would not suffer me to be quite silent. I have heard, from undoubted authority, that some of the Cherokees that have been introduced as Sachems and Princes by the interpreters (who share their presents and profits), have been no others than common hun- ters and bloodthirsty villains. We have no accounts yet of the militia from Fairfax. &c. This day I march with about one hundred men to Fort Cumberland. Yesterday, by an express, 208 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. I was informed of the arrival of eighty odd recruits to Freder- icksbnrgh, which I have ordered to proceed to this place, but for want of the regularity being observed, by which I should know where every officer, &c, ought to be, my orders are only conditional and always confused. Whatever necessarys your Honor gets below I should be glad to have them sent to Alex- andria, from whence they come much more handy than from Fredericksburgh ; besides, as provisions are lodged there, and none at the other place, it will be best for the men to be all sent there that is any ways convenient, for we have met with insuperable difficulty at Fredericksburgh, in our march from here, by the neglect of the Com., who is at this time greatly wanted here. Therefore, I hope your Honor will order him up immediately. I am, Honorable Sir, Your most obedient servant, G. Washington. But before this could have reached the governor, and been acted upon, came his commission, with these Instructions for George Washington. Whereas I have received information of a body of French forces being assembled in a hostile manner on the river Ohio, intending by force of arms, to erect certain forts on the said river, within this territory, and contrary to the dignity and peace of our sovereign, the King of Great Britain. These are therefore to require and direct you, the said George Washing- ton, forthwith to repair to Logstown on the said river Ohio ; and having there informed yourself where the said French forces have posted themselves, thereupon to proceed to such place ; and being there arrived, to present your credentials, together with my letter to the chief commanding officer, and in the name of his Britannic Majesty, to demand an answer thereto. INTRODUCTION. 209 On your arrival at Logstown you are to address yourself to the Half-King, to Monacatoocha, and other the Sachems of the Six Nations, acquainting them with your orders to visit and deliver my letter to the French commanding officer, and desir- ing the said chiefs to appoint you a sufficient number of their warriors to be your safeguard, as near the French as you may desire, and to wait your further direction. You are diligently to inquire into the numbers and force of the French on the Ohio, and the adjacent country; how they are likely to be assisted from Canada; and what are the difficulties and conveniences of that communication, and the time required for it. You are to take care to be truly informed what forts the French have erected, and where ; how they are garrisoned and appointed, and what is their distance from each other, and from Logstown ; and from the best intelligence you can procure, you are to learn what gave occasion to this expedition of the French ; how they are likely to be supported, and what then- pretensions are. When the French commandant has given you the required and necessary dispatches, you are to desire of him a proper guard to protect you as far on your return, as you may judge for your safety, against any straggling Indians or hunters, that may be ignorant of your character, and molest you. Wishing you success in your negotiation, and a safe and speedy return, I am, &c. Robert Dinwiodie. Williamsburg, October 30, 1753. With these instructions Washington proceeded to the Ohio, to demand the withdrawal of the French from the soil claimed as English territory. This act opened a series of struggles, in the course of which English, French, and Americans, 210 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. changed their relative positions, and which closed thirty years after, with the gaze of mankind riveted on the august form of him, whom we here behold the stripling. By that series of struggles America alone profited. The mighty Genius directing her destiny seems to have used the power of England to drive France from the north and west and south, and then used baffled France to drive the English power within that line of lakes which Dongan, a century before, mark- ed as our boundary ; used France, too, at a later day, to add to the American limits, that Louisiana which she could not hold herself, so that ere the century succeeding the events here de- scribed had reached its close, a mighty republic, stretching from the Atlantic to the Pacific, reveres, perpetuates, and exalts the name of Washington. J. G. S. ADVERTISEMENT. As it was thought advisable by his Honour the Governor, to have the following account of my proceedings to and from the French on the Ohio committed to print, I think I can do no less than apologize, in some measure, for the numberless imperfections of it. There intervened but one day between my arrival in Williamsburg and the time for the Council's meeting, for me to prepare and transcribe, from the rough minutes I had taken in my travels, this journal ; the writing of which only was sufficient to employ me closely the whole time, consequently admitted of no leisure to consult of a new and proper form to offer it in, or to correct and amend the diction of the old ; neither was I apprised, nor did in the least conceive, when I wrote this for his Honour's pe- rusal, that it ever would be published, or even have more than a cursory reading; till I was informed, at the meeting of the present General Assembly, that it was already in the press. There is nothing can recommend it to the pub- lic but this : those things which came under the notice of my own observation, I have been explicit and just in a re- cital of; those which I have gathered from report, I have been particularly cautious not to augment, but collected the opinions of the several intelligencers, and selected from the whole the most probable and consistent account. G. Washington. OCTOBER 31st, 1753. I was commissioned and appointed by the Hon. Robert Dinwiddie, Esq., Governor of Virginia, 1 to visit and deliver a letter to the commandant of the French forces on the Ohio, and set out on the intended journey on the same day (October 31, 1753); the next, I arrived at Fredericks- burg, and engaged Mr. Jacob Vanbraanr to be my French interpreter, and proceeded with him to Alexandria, where Ave provided necessaries. From thence we went to Win- chester, and got baggage, horses, &c, and from thence we pursued the new road to Will's Creek, where we arrived on the 14th of November. i Robert Dinwiddie, a native of Scotland, had been a clerk to a col- lector in a West-India custom-house, and gained the favor of govern- ment, by exposing the frauds of that officer. For this he was, in 1741, made surveyor of the customs of tlie Colonies, and having in that ea- been obnoxious to the Virginia aristocracy, was made lieuten- ant-governor of Virginia in 175-2. His administration was like that of most colonial governors. Campbell thus describes its close, in his " His- tory of Virginia," p. 497: "In January, 1758, Robert Dinwiddie, after an arduous and disturbed administration of live years, worn out with vexation and age, sailed from Virginia, not much regretted, except by his particular friends." 2 Jacob Van Braam had served under Lawrence Washington, in Ver- non's expedition against Carthageua, and had been fencing-master, as he was now interpreter, to George Washington. In the subsequent campaign when Washington capitulated at Fort Necessity. Van Braam, acting as translator, made Washington admit that he had assassinated De Jnmonville. At'terthat affair, he was left, with Stobo, as hostage in tlie hands of the French. 214 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. Here I engaged Mr. Gist 3 to pilot us out, and also hired four others as servitors, Barnaby Currin, and John M'Quire, Indian traders, Henry Steward, and William Jenkins; and in company with those persons, left the inhabitants the next day. NOVEMBER 22d. The excessive rains and vast quantity of snow which had fallen prevented our reaching Mr. Frazier's, an Indian trader, at the mouth of Turtle Creek, on Monongahela River, until Thursday, the 22nd. We were informed here that expresses had been sent a few days before to the traders down the river, to acquaint them with the French general's death, 1 and the return of the major part of the French army into winter-quarters. 3 Christopher Gist was an early settler in those parts, and Washing- ton, in recommending his appointment as Indian agent, thus writes to John Robinson, speaker of the House of Burgesses, May SO, 1757 : " I know of no person so well qualified for an undertaking of this sort as the bearer, Captain Gist. He has had extensive dealings with the Indians, is in great esteem among them, well acquainted with their manners and customs, indefatigable and patient — most excellent qualities where In- dians are concerned. As to his capacity, honesty, and zeal, I dare ven- ture to engage." — Writings, vol. ii., p. 236. 4 This French General was Pierre Paul, Sieur de Marin, a brave and intelligent officer, one of the best in Du Quesne's force, and high in the esteem of that reformer of discipline. Du Quesne had dispatched him to the Ohio, to found the fort at the confluence of the Alleghany and Monongahela. The register of Fort Duquesne has the following entry : "In the year one thousand seven hundred and fifty-three, the 29th of October, died at half-past four o'.clock in the afternoon, in the Fort of Riviere aux Bceufs, under the title of St. Peter, Monsieur Pierre Paul, Esq., Sieur de Marin, Knight of the Military and Royal Order of St. TOUR TO THE OHIO. 215 The waters were quite impassable without swimming our horses, which obliged us to get the loan of a canoe from Frazier, and to send Barnaby Currin and Henry Steward down the Monongahela, with our baggage, to meet us at the Fork of the Ohio, about ten miles ; there to cross the Allegany. As I got down before the canoe, I spent some time in viewing the rivers, and the land in the Fork, which I think extremely well situated for a fort, as it has the absolute command of both rivers. 5 The land at the point is twenty, Louis, Captain of Infantry and Commandant General of the army of the Ohio, after having received the sacraments of penance, extreme unction, and the viaticum, aged sixty-three years. His body was interred in the cemetery of said fort by us, Recollect priest, chaplain of said fort and, during the campaign, of the River Ohio. Were present at his in- terment, Monsieur de Repentigny, commandant of said army and cap- tain of infantry, Messieurs, du Muys. lieutenant of infantry, Benois, lieutenant of infantry, de Simblin, major at said fort, Laforce, com missary of the stores, who have signed with us " Lb Gardeur de Repentigny, "Laforce — Benois — Du Muys, "J. Depre Simbun, '' Friar Denis Baron, Recollect priest, chaplain." Mann had just erected Forts Presque Isle and Le Bceuf. Du Quesne in his letter to M. De Rouille, August "20, 1753, says: "Sieur Marin writes me on the 3d inst. that the fort at Presque Isle is entirely finish- ed ; that the Portage road, which is six leagues in length, is also ready for carriages; that the store which was necessary to be built halfway across the Portage is in a condition to receive the supplies ; and that the second fort, which is located at the mouth of the Riviere au Boeuf, will soon be completed."— W. Y. Col. Doc, x., 256. s This choice, says Dussieux, proves the accurate glance and excel- lent judgment of the young major. But at the moment of his making 216 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. or twenty-five feet above the common surface of the water; and a considerable bottom of flat, well-timbered land all around it, very convenient for building. The rivers are each a quarter of a mile or more across, and run here very nearly at right angles, Allegany bearing northeast, and Monongahela southeast. The former of these two is a very rapid and swift running water, the other deep and still, witbout any perceptible fall. About two miles from this, on the southeast side of the river, at the place where the Ohio Company intended to erect a fort, lives Shingiss, King of the Delawares. 6 We called upon him, to invite him to counsel at the Logstown. As I had taken a good deal of notice yesterday of the situation at the Fork, my curiosity led me to examine this more particularly, and I think it greatly inferior, either for defence or advantages ; especially the latter. For a fort at the Fork would be ecpially well situated on the Ohio, and have the entire command of the Monongahela, which runs up our settlement, and is extremely well designed for water- carriage, and it is of a deep, still nature. Besides, a fort at the Fork might be built at much less expense than at the other places. Nature has well contrived this lower place for water- defence ; but the hill whereon it must stand, being about a quarter of a mile in length, and then descending gradually on the land side, will render it difficult and very expen- the report, the French were already erecting Fort Duquesne on the spot. — Le Canada sous la Domination Franpaise, p. 61. 6 Shingiss had been the terror of the English frontiers, hut had now warmly espoused the cause of the English. TOUR TO THE OHIO. 217 sive to make a sufficient fortification there. The whole flat upon the hill must be taken in, the side next the descent made extremely high, or else the hill itself cut away ; otherwise the enemy may raise batteries within that dis- tance without being exposed to a single shot from the fort. Shingiss attended us to the Logstown, where we arrived between sun-setting and dark, the twenty-fifth day after I left Williamsburg. We travelled over some extremely good and bad land to get to this place. A- soon as I came into town, I went to Monacatoocha (as the Half-King 7 was out at his hunting cabin on Little Beaver Creek, about fifteen miles off), and informed him by John Davidson, my Indian interpreter, that I was sent a messenger to the French general, and was ordered to call upon the sachems of the Six Nations to acquaint them with it. I gave him a string of wampum and a twist of tobacco, and desired him to send for the Half-King, which he prom- ised to do by a runner in the morning, and for other sachems. I invited him and the other great men present to my tent, where they stayed about an hour, and returned. According to the best observations I could make, Mr. Gist's new settlement (which we passed by) hears about west northwest seventy miles from Will's Creek ; Shainio- pins, or the Fork, north by west, or north northwest, about fifty miles from that ; and from thence to the Logstown the course is nearly west about eighteen or twenty miles; so ' Half-King. Tanacharisson, a shrewd Seneca, was called the Half- King, as his authority was subject to that of the Five Nations. Camp- bell's " History of Virginia," p. 461. Sargent's "Braddock," p. 54. Ho was with Washington in the affair with Jumonville, and died in Oct. 17"' 1. 10 218 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. that the whole distance, as we went and computed it, is at least one hundred and thirty-five, or one hundred and foity miles from our back inhabitants. November, 25th. Came to town, four of ten Frenchmen, who had deserted from a company at the Kuskuskas, 8 which lies at the mouth of this river. I got the following account from them. They were sent from New Orleans with a hundred men, and eight canoe loads of provisions to this place, where they expected to have met the same number of men, from the forts on this side of Lake Erie, to convoy them and the stores up, who were not arrived when they ran off. I inquired into the situation of the French on the Missis- sippi, their numbers, and what forts they had built. They informed me that there were four small forts between New Orleans and the Black Islands, 9 garrisoned with about thirty or forty men, and a few small pieces in each. That at New Orleans, which is near the mouth of the Mississippi, there are thirty-five companies of forty men each, with a pretty strong fort mounting;- eight carriage guns : and at the Black Islands there are several companies, and a fort with six guns. The Black Islands are about a hundred and thirty 8 Kuskuskas was, it is said, an Indian town on Big Beaver Creek, Pennsylvania. 9 Black Islands. Washington was here evidently misled by the •sound, and mistook Illinois for Isles Noires, that is Black Islands. There was no French post called Black Islands, but the name Illinois, now so familiar to us, was then unheard in the British colonies. The Miamis and Illinois were known as Chicktaghicks and Twifftwies, and both together frequently under the last, the more common term. TOUR TO THE OHIO. 219 leagues above the mouth of the Ohio, which is about three hundred and fifty above New Orleans. They also acquaint- ed me that there was a small palisadoed fort on the Ohio, at the mouth of the Obaish, 10 about sixty leagues from the Mississippi. The Obaish heads near the west end of Lake Erie, and affords the communication between the French on the Mississippi and those on the lakes. These deserters came up from the lower Shannoah" town with one Brown, an Indian trader, and were going to Philadelphia. About three o'clock this evening, the Half-King came to town. I went up and invited him, with Davidson, private- ly, to my tent, and desired him to relate some of the partic- ulars of his journey to the French commandant, and of his reception there ; also, to give me an account of the ways and distance. He told me that the nearest and levelest way was now impassable, by reason of many large, miry savan- nas ; that we must be obliged to go by Venango, 12 and ™ Obaish, Wabash ; in French, Ouabache. This name was given by Marquette, La Salle, and other early explorers, to the Ohio, but finally became that of a branch, while the Iroquois name, Ohio, or Beautiful River, was applied to the main stream. The fort alluded to was prob- ably Vineennes. " Shawanoe, or, as now written, Shawnee. They were called by the French, Chawanon. They were the most restless of the Algonquin tribes, having been for a longer or shorter period in almost all the Atlantic colonies, from Florida to New York, and bands of them accompanied La Salle and Tonti up and down the Mississippi, one of them even shar- ing the death of the great explorer. 12 Venango. Fort Venango was at the confluence of French I and the Alleghany, on the left; and another French fort, Machault, lay on the right. The ruins of Fort Venango cover a space of about four hundred feet, and the ramparts are eight feet high. 220 DIAItY OF WASHINGTON. should not get to the near fort in less than five or six night's sleep, good travelling. When he went to the fort, he said he was received in a very stern manner by the late commander, who asked him very abruptly what he had come about, and to declare his business, which he said he did in the following speech : — "Fathers, I am come to tell you your own speeches, what your own mouths have declared. "Fathers, you, in former days, set a silver basin before us, wherein there was the leg of a beaver, and desired all the nations to come and eat of it, to eat in peace and plenty, and not to be churlish to one another ; and that if any such person should be found to be a disturber, I here lay down by the edge of the dish a rod, which you must scourge them with ; and if your father should get foolish, in my old days, I desire you may use it upon me as well as others. " Now, fathers, it is you who are the disturbers in this land, by coming and building your towns, and taking it away unknown to us, and by force. " Fathers, we kindled a fire a long time ago at a place called Montreal, where we desired you to stay, and not to come and intrude upon our land. I now desire you may dispatch to that place ; for be it known to you, fathers, that this is our land, and not yours. "Fathers, I desire you may hear me in civilness; if not, we must handle that rod which was laid down for the use of the obstreperous. If you had come in a peaceable man- ner, like our brothers the English, we would not have been against your trading with us as they do ; but to come, fa- TOUR TO THE OHIO. 221 thers, and build houses upon our land, and to take it by force, is what we cannot submit to. "Fathers, both you and the English are white, we live in a country between ; therefore, the land belongs to neither one nor the other. But the Great Being above allowed it to be a place of residence for us ; so, fathers, I desire you to withdraw, as I have done our brothers the English ; for I will keep you at arm's length. I lay this down as a trial for both, to see which will have the greatest regard to it, and that side we will stand by, and make equal sharers with us. Our brothers, the English, have heard this, and I come now to tell it to you ; for I am not afraid to discharge you off this land." This, he said, was the substance of what he spoke to the general, who made this reply : — " Now, my child, I have heard your speech ; you spoke first, but it is my time to speak now. Where is my wam- pum that you took away with the marks of towns on it .' This wampum I do not know, which you have discharged me off the land with ; but you need not put yourself to the trouble of speaking, for I will not hear you. I am not afraid of flies or musquitoes, for Indians are such as those ; I tell you down that river I will go, and build upon it, ac- cording to my command. If the river was blocked up, I have forces sufficient to burst it open, and tread under my feet all that stand in opposition, together with their alli- ances; for my force is as the sand upon the sea shore ; there- fore, here is your wampum ; I sling it at you. Child, you talk foolish ; you say this land belongs to you, but there is not the black of my nail yours. I saw that land sooner 222 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. than you did ; before the Shannoahs and you were at war. Lead was the man who went down and took possession of that river. It is my land, and I will have it, let who will stand up for, or say against it. I will buy and sell with the English (mockingly.) If people will be ruled by me, they may expect kindness, but not else." The Half-King told me he had inquired of the general after two Englishmen who were made prisoners, and re- ceived this answer : — " Child, you think it a very great hardship that I made prisoners of those two people at Venango. Don't you con- cern yourself with it ; we took and carried them to Canada, to get intelligence of what the English were doing in Vir- ginia." He informed me that they had built two forts, one on Lake Erie, 13 and another on French Creek, near a small lake, 14 about fifteen miles asunder, and a large wagon-road between. They are both built after the same model, but different in size ; that on the lake the largest. He gave me a plan of them of his own drawing. The Indians inquired very particularly after their broth- ers in Carolina gaol. They also asked what sort of a boy it was who was taken from the South Branch ; for they were told by some Indians 13 Fort Presquelsle, lay near the site of the present Erie, and exten- sive earthworks can still be seen. > 14 Fort Le Boeuf, or Fort de la Riviere aux Bceuf's. See Washington's description of it under date of December 13th. It stood on the banks of Lake Le Boeuf, about fourteen miles southeast of Erie, near the pres- ent village of Waterford, where its ruins are still to be seen. TOUK TO THE OHIO. 223 that a party of French Indians had carried a white boy by Kuskuska Town, towards the lakes. November 26th. We met in council at the long-house about nine o'clock, where I spoke to them as follows: — "Brothers, I have called you together in council, by order of your brother, the Governor of Virginia, to acquaint you that T am sent with all possible dispatch to visit and deliver a letter to the French commandant of very great importance to your brothers the English ; and I dare say to you, their friends and allies. " I was desired, brothers, by your brother, the Governor, to call upon you, the sachems of the nations, to inform you of it, and to ask your advice and assistance to proceed the nearest and best road to the French. You see, brothers, I have gotten thus far on my journey. " His Honour likewise desired me to apply to you for some of your young men to conduct and provide provisions for us on our way, and be a safeguard against those French Indians who have taken up the hatchet against us. I have spoken thus particularly to you, brothers, because his Hon- our, our Governor, treats you as good friends and allies, and holds you in great esteem. To confirm what I have said, I give you this string of wampum." After they had considered for some time on the above discourse, the Half-King got up and spoke : — "Now, my brother, in regard to what my brother the Governor had desired of me, I return you this answer: — "I rely upon you as a brother ought to do, as you say we 224 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON. are brothers, and one people. We shall put heart in hand and speak to our fathers, the French, concerning the speech they made to me ; and you may depend that we will en- deavour to be your guard. "Brother, as you have asked my advice, I hope you will be ruled by it, and stay until I can provide a company to go with you. The French speech-belt is not here ; I have to go for it to my hunting-cabin. Likewise, the people whom I have ordered in are not yet come, and cannot until the third night from this ; until which time, brother, I must beg you to stay. " I intend to send the guard of Mingoes,'* Shannoahs, and Delawares, 16 that our brothers may see the love and loyalty we bear them." 15 Mingoes. The Mengwe, Minquas, or Mingoes, were properly the Andastes or Gandastogues, the Indians of Conestoga, on the Susque- hanna, known by the former name to the Algonquins, and their allies, the Dutch and Swedes, and by the former to the Five Nations and the English of New York. The Marylanders knew them as the Susqne- hannas. Upon their reduction by the Five Nations in 1672 after a long war, the Andastes were to a great extent mingled with their conquer- ors, and a party removing to the Ohio, commonly called Mingoes, was thus made up, of Iroquois and Mingoes. The celebrated Logan was a real Andaste. Many treat Mingo as synonymous with Mohawk or Iro- quois, but erroneously. 18 Delawares. This well-known tribe was a small Algonquin nation, calling itself Lenni Lenape. They were early subdued by the Five Nations, and seemed to have acquired the considerable historic place they occupy more from the fertility of their traditionary mind than from important deeds in war or peace. In our earlier histories they assume gigantic importance, and their migrations and wars are detailed at length. These are, however, very doubtful. That they are a branch of the Illinois, emigrating to the east, seems probable. TOUR TO THE OHIO. 225 As I had orders to make all possible dispatch, and wait- ing here was very contrary to my inclination, I thanked him in the most suitable manner I could, and told him that my business required the greatest expedition, and would not admit of that delay. He was not well pleased thai I should offer to go before the time be had appointed, and told me that he could not consent to our going without ,t guard, for fear some accident should befall us, and draw a reflection upon him. Besides, said he, this is a matter of no small moment, and must not be entered into without due consideration ; for I intend to deliver up the French speech- belt, and make the Shannoahs and Delawares do the same. And accordingly he gave orders to King Shingiss, who was present, to attend on Wednesday night with the wampum ; and two men of their nation to be in readiness to set out with us the next morning. As I found it was impossible to get off without affronting them in the most egregious man- ner, I consented to stay. I gave them back a string of wampum which I met with at Mr. Frazier's, and which they sent with a speech to his Honour the Governor, to inform him that three nations of French Indians, — namely, Chippewas, 1; Ottawas, 13 and Orun- " The Chippewas were first known to the French, as Otchiboues, answering to the modern form Ojibwa, or Otchipwe. They are an Al- gonquin tribe, whose residence was at Sault Ste. Marie, whence the later French called them Sautenx, men of the Sault. Their language, traditions, and customs, have been more thoroughly studied than those of any other of our Indian tribes. 18 The Ottawas were another Algonquin tribe found on Lake Onta- rio. They formed, when first known, two branches, the Kiskakons and Sinagoes, and were remarkably errant. Their fires were lighted at 10* 226 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. daks, 19 had taken up the hatchet against the English ; and desired them to repeat it over again. But this they post- poned doing until they met in full council with the Shan- noah and Delaware chiefs. November 27th. Runners were dispatched very early for the Shannoab^ chiefs. The Half-King set out himself to fetch the French speech -belt from his hunting-cabin. November 28th. He returned this evening, and came with Monacatoocha and two other sachems to my tent, and begged (as they had complied with his Honour the Governor's request, in pro- viding men, &c.) to know on what business we were going to the French. This was a question I had all along expect- ed, and had provided as satisfactory answers as I could ; which allayed their curiosity a little. Monacatoocha informed me that an Indian from Venan- go brought news a few days ago that the French had different times from Chagoimegon to Detroit. They are now chiefly on the eastern shore of Lake Michigan. Their language bears a very close resemblance to the Ojibwa. 19 The Orundaks are evidently the Adirondacks of New York writers, the Algonquin of the French. Adirondack is a Mohawk term, mean- ing, they eat trees, from karonta, tree; and iraks, he eats. A small village of them still exists at the Lake of the Two Mountains, Canada East. They were hereditary enemies of the Five Nations, and their alliance with the Hurons drew the latter into a war, in which both were utter- ly prostrated, by the great confederation of New York. TOUR TO TIIK OHIO. 227 called all the Mingoes, Delawares, &c, together at that place; and told them that they intended to have been down the river this fall, but the waters were growing cold, and the winter advancing, which obliged them to go into quarters ; but that they might assuredly expect them in the spring with a far greater number ; and desired that they might be quite passive, and not intermeddle unless they had a mind to draw all their force upon them ; for that they expected to fight the English three years (as they supposed there would be some attempts made to stop them), in which time they should conquer. But that if they should prove equal- ly strong, they and the English would join to cut them all off, and divide the land between them ; that though they had lost their general and some few of their soldiers, yet there were men enough to reinforce them, and make them masters of the Ohio. This speech, he said, was delivered to them by one Cap- tain Joncaire, 20 their interpreter-in-chief, living at Venango, and a man of note in the army. *> No name figures more extensively in our border history than the Sieur de Joncaire, father and son, of whom, however, comparatively little is known. The former had been a prisoner in the hands of the Senecas, and adopted by them as early as 1700, and in that year they asked that he should go to their canton to arrange terms of peace, which he did with success. In all subsequent transactions with the Iroquois he plays a conspicuous part, his Indian naturalization making it impos- sible for the English authorities to obtain his expulsion.-Charlevoix, Hist. XouvelU France, ii., 244-365. He was apparently the first Euro- pean who examined the oil springs recently rendered so profitable. His son, the Joncaire of this diary, continued his father's influence among the Senecas, till Shirley, when at Oswego, in 1755, induced them to order him to depart.— Smith's New York (ed. 1830), i., 275. 228 DIAKY OF WASHINGTON. November 29th. The Half-King and Monacatoocha came very early, and begged me to stay one day more ; for notwithstanding they had used all the diligence in their power, the Shannoah chiefs had not brought the wampum they ordered, but would certainly be in to-night; if not, they would delay me no longer, but would send it after us as soon as they arrived. When I found them so pressing in their request, and knew that the returning of wampum was the abolish- ing of agreements, and giving this up was shaking off all dependence upon the French, I consented to stay, as I be- lieved an offence offered at this crisis might be attended with greater ill consequence than another day's delay. They also informed me that Shingiss could not get in his men, and was prevented from coming himself by his wife's sickness (I believe by fear of the French), but that the wampum of that nation was lodged with Kustalogo, one of their chiefs, at Venango. In the evening, late, they came again, and acquainted me that the Shannoahs were not yet arrived, but that it should not retard the prosecution of our journey. He delivered in my hearing the speech that was to be made to the French by Jeskakake, one of their old chiefs, which was giving up the belt the late commandant had asked for, and repeating nearly the same speech he himself had done before. He also delivered a string of wampum to this chief, which was sent by King Shingiss, to be given to Kustalogo, with orders to repair to the French, and deliver up the wampum. TOUR TO THE OHIO. 229 He likewise gave a very large string of black and white wampum, which was to be sent up immediately to the Six Nations, if the French refused to quit the land at this warn- ing, which was the third and last time, and was the right of this Jeskakake to deliver. November 30th. Last night, the great men assembled at their council house, to consult further about this journey, and who were to go ; the result of which was, that only three of their chiefs, with one of their best hunters, should be our convoy. The reason they gave for not sending more, after what had been proposed at council the 26th, was, that a greater number might give the French suspicions of some bad design, and cause them to be treated rudely ; but I rather think they could not get their hunters in. We set out about nine o'clock with the Half- King, Jes- kakake, White Thunder, and the Hunter; and travelled on the road to Venango, where we arrived the 4th of De- cember, without anything remarkable happening but a continued series of bad weather. This is an old Indian town, situated at the mouth of French Creek, on the Ohio; and lies near north about sixty miles from the Logstowu, but more than seventy the way w y e were obliged to go. We found the French colours hoisted at a house from which they had driven Mr. John Frazier, an English sub- ject. I immediately repaired to it, to know where the commander resided. There were three officers, one of 230 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. whom, Captain Joncaire, informed me that he had the command of the Ohio ; but that there was a general officer at the near fort, where he advised me to apply for an an- swer. He invited us to sup with them, and treated us with the greatest complaisance. The wine, as they dosed themselves pretty plentifully with it, soon banished the restraint which at first appeared in their conversation, and gave a licence to their tongues to reveal their sentiments more freely. They told me that it was their absolute design to take possession of the Ohio, and by G — they would do it ; for that, although they were sensible the English could raise two men for their one, yet they knew their motions were too slow and dilatory to prevent any undertaking of theirs. They pretend to have an undoubted right to the river from a discovery made by one La Salle," sixty years ago; and the rise of this expedition is, to prevent our settling on the 21 La Salle. Robert Cavelier de la Salle, it is known, followed up the discovery of Marquette and Joliet, and in 16S2 descended the Missis- sippi to its mouth, which he reached on the 9th of April. He planted the arms of France, and took possession of the river and all the country watered by it and its branches. This extended the French claim to the head waters of the Alleghany and Monongahela. See " The Discovery and Exploration of the Mississippi," and narrative there given. Pierre, de Margry, a recent French writer, asserts that in 1670-1, La Salle de- scended the Ohio to the Mississippi (Dussieux, Canada, p. 37); but the proof has not been given, and not improbably is a delusion, as no notice of the fact appears in any document of the time, and the friends of La Salle would not be likely to omit an expedition giving him a clear pri- ority to the discovery of the Mississippi, nor would La Salle, having a post at Niagara, overlook the advantage of following the same course to reach the mouth of the Mississippi. TOUR TO THK OHIO. 231 river or waters of it, as they heard of some families moving out in order thereto. From the best intelligence I could get, there have been fifteen hundred men on this side On- tario Lake. But upon the death of the general, all were recalled, to about six or seven hundred, who were left to garrison four forts, one hundred and fifty, or thereabout, in each. The first of them is on French Creek," near a small lake, about sixty miles from Venango, near north north- west ; the next lies on Lake Erie,' 3 where the greater part of their stores are kept, about fifteen miles from the other ; from this it is one hundred and twenty miles to the carry- ing-place, at the Falls of Lake Erie, where there is a small fort,' 4 at which they lodge their goods in bringing them from Montreal, the place from whence all their stores are brought The next fort lies about twenty miles from this, on Ontario Lake." Between this fort and Montreal, there are three others, the first of which 86 is nearly opposite to the English fort Oswego. From the fort on Lake Erie to Mon- treal is about six hundred miles, which, they say, requires no more (if good weather) than four weeks' voyage, if they go in barks or large vessels, so that they may cross the lake ; but if they come in canoes, it will require five or six weeks, for they are obliged to keep under the shore. DECEMBER 5th. Rained excessively all day, which prevented our travel- 's Fort Le Boeuf. 23 F ort Presque Isle. M Fort N: 85 Fort Toronto. »» Fort Frontcuac. 232 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. ling. Captain Joncaire sent for the Half-King, as be had but just heard that he came with me. He affected to be much concerned that I did not make free to bring them in before. I excused it in the best manner of which I was capable, and told him, I did not think their company agree- able, as I had heard him say a good deal in dispraise of In- dians in general ; but another motive prevented me from bringing them into his company ; I knew that he was an interpreter, and a person of very great influence among the Indians, and had lately used all possible means to draw them over to his interest ; therefore I was desirous of giving him no opportunity that could be avoided. When they came in there was great pleasure expressed at seeing them. He wondered how they could be so near without coming to visit him, made several trifling presents, and applied liquor so fast that they were soon rendered in- capable of the business they came about, notwithstanding the caution which was given.' 27 December 6th. The Half-King came to my tent quite sober, and insisted very much that I should stay and hear what he had to say 21 Gist, in Lis journal, here notes : " Our Indians were in council with the Delawares, who lived under the French colors, and ordered them to deliver up to the French the belt with the marks of the four towns, according to the desire of King Shingiss. But the chief of these Dela- wares said: 'It was true, King Shingiss was a great man, but he had sent no speech, and,' said he, 'I cannot pretend to make a speech for a king.' So our Indians could not prevail with thorn to deliver their belt ; but the Half-King did deliver his belt as he had determined." TOUR TO THE OHIO. 233 to the French. I fain would have prevented him from speaking anything until he came to the commandant, but could not prevail. He told me that at this place a council fire was kindled, where all their business with these people was to be transacted, and that the management of the In- dian affairs was left solely to Monsieur Joncaire. As I was desirous of knowing the issue of this, I agreed to stay ; but sent our horses a little way up French Creek, to raft over and encamp, which I knew would make it near night. About ten o'clock they met in council. The King spoke much the same as he had before done to the general ; and offered the French speech-belt which had before been de- manded, with the marks of four towns on it, which Mon- sieur Joncaire refused to receive, but desired him to carry it to the fort to the commander. December 7th. Monsieur La Force, commissary of the French stores, and three other soldiers, came over to accompany us up. We found it extremely difficult to get the Indians off to-day, as every stratagem had been used to prevent their going up with me. I had last night left John Davidson (the Indian interpreter), whom I had brought with me from town, and strictly charged him not to be out of their company, as I could nut get them over to my tent ; for they had some business with Kustalogo, chiefly to know why he did not deliver up the French speech-belt which he had in keep- ing ; but I was obliged to send Mr. Gist over to-day to fetch them, which he did with great persuasion. 234 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. At twelve o clock, we set out for the fort, and were pre- vented arriving there until the 11th by excessive rains, snows, and bad travelling through many mires and swamps ; these we were obliged to pass to avoid crossing the creek, which was impassable, either by fording or rafting, the water was so high and rapid. We passed over much good land since we left Venango, and through several extensive and very rich meadows, one of which, I believe, was nearly four miles in length, and considerably wide in some places. December 12th. 1 prepared early to wait upon the commander, and was received and conducted to him by the second officer in command. I acquainted him with my business, and offered him my commission and letter ; both of which he desired me to keep until the arrival of Monsieur Reparti, captain at the next fort, who was sent for and expected every hour. This commander is a knight of the military order of St. Louis, and named Legardeur de St. Pierre. 28 He is an eld- 2S Le Gardeur de St. Pierre. The family of Le Gardeur de Repenti- gny descended from Pierre Le Gardeur, Sieur de Repentigny, one of the earliest settlers near Quebec. Mr. Ferland, in his " Notes on the Reg- ister of Quebec," p. 53, remarks that members of this family, and that of Charles Le Gardeur de Tilly took part in every war of New France, from Louisiana to Acadia and Newfoundland. Pie adds, on p. 57, that both have completely disappeared from Canada. The officer who suc- ceeded Marin signs in the Register, Le Gardeur de Repentigny, but in the letter to Dinwiddie, Le Gardeur de St Pierre, and is apparently the one known as M. de St. Pierre, who was killed at Bloody Pond. The younger one, styled M. de Repentigny, would seem, however, to be intended by the M. Reparti of Washington's Diary. TOUR TO THE OHIO. 235 erly gentleman, and has much the air of a soldier. He was sent over to take the command immediately upon the death of the late general, and arrived here about seven days be- fore me. At two o'clock, the gentleman who was sent for arrived, when I offered the letter, etc., again, which they received, and adjourned into a private apartment for the captain to translate, who understood a little English. After he had done it, the commander desired I would walk in and bring my interpreter to peruse and correct it ; which I did. December 13th. The chief officers retired to hold a council of war, which gave me an opportunity of taking the dimensions of the fort, and making what observations I could. It is situated on the south or west fork of French Creek, near the water ; and is almost surrounded by the creek, and a small branch of it, which form a kind of island. Four houses compose the sides. The bastions are made of piles driven into the ground, standing more than twelve feet above it, and sharp at top, with port-holes cut for cannon, and loop-holes for the small arms to fire through. There are eight six-pounds pieces mounted in each bastion, and one piece of four pounds before the gate. In the bastions are a guard-house, chapel, doctor's lodging, and the com- mander's private store ; round which are laid platforms for the cannon and men to stand on. There are several bar- racks without the fort, for the soldiers' dwellings, covered, some with bark and some with boards made chiefly of logs. 236 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. There are also several other houses, such as stables, smith s shop, &c. I could get no certain account of the number of men here ; but, according to the best judgment I could form, there are a hundred, exclusive of officers, of whom there are many. I also gave orders to the people who were with me to take an exact account of the canoes, which were hauled up to convey their forces down in the spring. This they did, and told fifty of birch bark, and a hundred and seventy of pine, besides many others, which were blocked out, in readiness for being made. December 14th. As the snow increased very fast, and our horses daily be- came weaker, I sent them off unloaded, under the care of Barnaby Currin and two others, to make all convenient dis- patch to Venango, and there to wait our arrival, if there was a prospect of the river's freezing ; if not, then to con- tinue down to Shannopin's Town, at the Fork of the Ohio, and there to wait until we came to cross the Allegany, in- tending myself to go down by water, as I had the offer of a canoe or two. As I found many plots concerted to retard the Indians' business, and prevent their returning with me, I endeavour- ed all that lay in my power to frustrate their schemes, and hurried them on to execute their intended design. They accordingly pressed for admittance this evening, which at length was granted them, privately, to the commander and one or two other officers. The Half-King told me that he offered the wampum to the commander, who evaded taking TOUK TO THE OHIO. 237 it, and made many fair promises of love and friendship ; said he wanted to live in peace, and trade amicably with them, as a proof of which, he would send some goods imme- diately down to the Logstown for them. But I rather think the design of that is to bring away all our straggling tra- ders they meet with, as I privately understood they intend- ed to carry an officer with them. And what rather con- firms this opinion, I was inquiring of the commander by what authority he had made prisoners of several of our En- glish subjects. He told me that the country belonged to them ; that no Englishman had a right to trade upon those waters ; and that he had orders to make every person pris- oner who attempted it on the Ohio, or the waters of it. I inquired of Captain Reparti about the boy that was car- ried by this place, as it was done while the command de- volved on him, between the death of the late general ami the arrival of the present. He acknowledged that a boy had been carried past; and that the Indians had two or three white men's scalps, (I was told by some of the Indians at Venango, eight,) but pretended to have forgotten the name of the place where the boy came from, and all the par- ticular facts, though he had questioned him for some hours as they were carrying him past. I likewise inquired what they had done with John Trotter and James M'Clocklan, two Pennsylvania traders, whom they had taken with all their goods. They told me that they had been sent to Canada, but were now returned home. This evening I received an answer to his Honour the Governor's letter from the commandant. 238 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. December 15th. The commandant ordered a plentiful store of liquor and provision to be put on board our canoes, and appeared to be extremely complaisant, though he was exerting every artifice which he could invent to set our Indians at variance with us, to prevent their going until after our departure ; presents, rewards, and everything which could be suggested by him or his officers. I cannot say that ever in my life I suffered so much anxiety as I did in this affair. I saw that every stratagem which the most fruitful brain could invent was practised to win the Half-King to their interest ; and that leaving him there was giving them the opportunity they aimed at. I went to the Half-King and pressed him in the strongest terms to go ; he told me that the comman- dant would not discharge him until the morning. I then went to the commandant, and desired him to do their busi- ness, and complained of ill treatment ; for keeping them, as they were part of my company, was detaining me. This he promised not to do, but to forward my journey as much as he could. He protested he did not keep them, but was ignorant of the cause of their stay ; though I soon found it out. He had promised them a present of guns, if they would wait until the morning. As I was very much press- ed by the Indians to wait this day for them, I consented, on a promise that nothing should hinder them in the morning. TOUR TO THE OHIO. 239 December 16th. The French were not slack in their inventions to keep the Indians this day also. But as they were obliged, according to promise, to give the present, they then en- deavoured to try the power of liquor, which I doubt not would have prevailed at any other time than this ; but I urged and insisted with the King so closely upon his word that he refrained, and set off with us as he had en- gaged. We had a tedious and very fatiguing passage down the creek. Several times Ave had liked to have been staved against rocks ; and many times were obliged all hands to get out and remain in the water half an hour or more, get- ting over the shoals. At one place, the ice had lodged and made it impassable by water ; we were therefore obliged to carry our canoe across the neck of land, a quarter of a mile over. We did not reach Venango until the 22nd, where we met with our horses. This creek is extremely crooked. I dare say the distance between the fort and Venango cannot be less than one hun- dred and thirty miles, to follow the meanders. December 23d. When I got things ready to set off, I sent for the Half- King to know whether he intended to go with us or by water. He told me that White Thunder had hurt himself much, and was sick and unable to walk ; therefore he was 240 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. obliged to carry him down in a canoe. As I found be in tended to stay here a day or two, and knew that Monsieur Joncaire would employ every scheme to set him against the English, as be bad before done, I told him I hoped he would guard against his flattery, and let no fine speeches influence him in their favour. He desired I might not be concerned, for he knew the French too well for anything to engage him in their favour ; and that though he could not go down with us, he yet would endeavour to meet at the Fork with Joseph Campbell, to deliver a speech for me to carry to his Honour the Governor. He told me he would order the Young Hunter to attend us, and get pro- visions, &c., if wanted. Our horses were now so weak and feeble, and the bag- gage so heavy (as we were obliged to provide all the ne- cessaries which the journey would require), that we doubted much their performing it. Therefore, myself and others, except the drivers, who were obliged to ride, gave up our horses for packs, to assist along with the baggage. I put myself in an Indian walking-dress, and continued with them three days, until I found there was no probability of their getting home in any reasonable time. The horses became less able to travel every day ; the cold increased very fast ; and the roads were becoming much worse by a deep snow, continually freezing ; therefore, as I was uneasy to get back, to make report of my proceedings to his Honour the Gov- ernor, I determined to prosecute my journey the nearest way through the woods on foot. Accordingly, I left Mr. Vanbraam in charge of our bag- gage, with money and directions to provide necessaries from TOUR TO THE OHIO. 241 place to place for themselves and horses, and to make the most convenient dispatch in travelling. December 26th. I took my necessary papers, pnlled off my clothes, and tied myself up in a watch-coat. Then, with gun in hand and pack on my back, in which were my papers and pro- visions, I set out with Mr. Gist, fitted in the same manner, on "Wednesday, the 26th. S9 The day following, just after 39 Gist opposed Washington's attempting this journey on foot, and his journal here heing more full and explicit as to his Washington's sufferings than his own Diary, an extract will not be uninteresting: " I was unwilling he should undertake such a travel, who had never been used to walking before this time. But as he insisted on it, we set out with our packs, like Indians, and travelled eighteen miles. That night we lodged at an Indian cabin, and the major was much fatigued. It was very cold. All the small runs were frozen, so that we could hard- ly get water to drink. " Thursday, 27th. — We rose early in the morning, and set out about two o'clock. Got to Murdering Town, on the southeast Fork of Beaver Creek. Here we met with an Indian, whom I thought I had seen at Joneaire's, at Venango, when on our journey up to the French fort. This fellow called me by my Indian name, and pretended to be glad to see me. He asked us several questions, as, how we came to travel on foot, when we left Venango, where we parted with our horses, and when they would be there. Major Washington insisted on travelling the nearest way to the forks of the Alleghany. We asked the Indian if he could go with us, and show us the nearest way. The Indian seemed very glad and ready to go with us. Upon which, we set out, and the Indian took the major's pack. We travelled very briskly for eight or ten miles, when the major's feet grew sore., and he very weary ; and the Indian steered too much northeastwardly. "The major desired to encamp, on which the Indian asked to carry his gun. But he refused that, and then the Indian grew churlish, and 11 242 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. we had passed a place called Murdering Town (where we intended to quit the path and steer across the country for Shannopin's Town), we fell in with a party of French In- dians, who had lain in wait for us. One of them fired at Mr. Gist or me, not fifteen steps off, but fortunately missed. pressed us to keep on, telling us that there were Ottawa Indians in these woods, and that they would scalp us if we lay out ; but to go to his cabin, and we should be safe. I thought very ill of the fellow, but did not care to let the major know I mistrusted him. But soon he mis- trusted him as much as I. He said he could hear a gun to his cabin, and steered us more northwardly. We grew uneasy; and then he said that two whoops might be heard to his cabin. We went two miles further. Then the major said he would stay at the next water, and we desired the Indian to stop at the next water. But before we came to water, we came to a clear meadow. It was very light and there was* snow on the ground. The Indian made a stop and turned about. The major saw him point his gun towards us and fire. Said the major ' Are you shot?' ' No,' said I. Upon this, the Indian ran forward to a big standing white oak, and went to loading his gun ; but we were soon with him. I would have killed him, but the major would not suffer me to kill him. " We let him charge his gun. We found he put in a ball. Then we took care of him. The major or I always stood by the guns. We made the Indian make a fire for us by a little run, as if we intended to sleep there. I said to the major, ' As you will not have him killed we must get him away, and then we must travel all night.' Upon this I said to the Indian, ' I suppose yon were lost and fired your gun.' He said he knew the way to his cabin, and that it was but a little way. ' Well,' said I, ' do you go home ; and as we are much tired, we will follow your track in the morning ; and here is a cake of bread for you, and you must give us meat in the morning.' He was glad to get away. I followed him, and listened until he was fairly out of the way. Then we set out about half a mile, when we made a fire, set our compass and fixed our course, and travelled all night. In the morning we were at the head of Piney Creek." TOUR TO THE OHIO. 243 We took this fellow into custody, and kept him till aboul nine o'clock at night, then let him go, and walked all the remaining part of the night without making any stop, that we might get the start so far as to be out of the reach of their pursuit the next day, since we were well assured they would follow our track as soon as it was light. The next day we continued travelling until quite dark, and got to the river about two miles above Shannopin's. We expected to have found the river frozen, but it was not, only about fifty yards from each shore. The ice, I suppose, had broken up above, for it was driving in vast quantities. There was no way for getting over but on a raft, which we set about with but one poor hatchet, and finished just after sun-setting. This was a whole day's work ; we next got it launched, then went on board of it and set off; but before we were half way over, we were jammed in the ice in such a manner that we expected every moment our raft to sink, and ourselves to perish. I put out my setting-pole to try to stop the raft, that the ice might pass by, when the rapidity of the stream threw it with so much violence against the pole that it jerked me out into ten feet water ; but I fortunately saved myself by catching hold of one of the raft-logs. Notwithstanding all our efforts, we could uot get to either shore, but were obliged, as we were near an island, to quit our raft and make to it. The cold was so extremely severe that Mr. Gist had all his fingers and some of his toes frozen ; and the water was shut up so hard that we found no difficulty in getting off the island on the ice in the morning, and went to Mr. Fra- zier's. We met here with twenty warriors, who were going 244 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. to the southward to war ; but coming to a place on the head Great Kenhawa, where they found seven people killed and scalped (all but one woman with very light hair), they turned about and ran back, for fear the inhabitants should rise and take them as the authors of the murder. They report that the bodies were lying about the house, and some of them much torn and eaten by the hogs. By the marks which were left, they say, they were French Indians of the Ottoway nation who did it. As we intended to take horses here, and it required some time to find them, I went up about three miles to the mouth of Youghiogany, to visit Queen Aliquippa, who had expressed great concern that we passed her in going to the fort. I made her a present of a watch-coat and a bottle of rum, which latter was thought much the better present of the two. Tuesday, the 1st of January. We left Mr. Frazier's house, and arrived at Mr. Gist's, at Monongahela, 30 the 2nd, where I bought a horse and saddle. The 6th, we met seventeen horses loaded with materials and stores for a fort at the Fork of the Ohio, and the day after, some families going out to settle. This day we ar- rived at Will's Creek, after as fatiguing a journey as it is possible to conceive, rendered so by excessive bad weather. 30 Monongahela, said to be from the Shawnee Mehmonawangehelak, Falling-in-bank-river. Alleghany, the name of the other branch of the Ohio, is Iroquois, and signifies Cold-water. TOUR TO THE OHIO. 245 From the 1st day of December to the loth, there was but one day on which it did not rain or snow incessantly ; and throughout the whole journey we met with nothing but one continued series of cold, wet weather, which occasioned very uncomfortable lodgings, especially after we had quit- ted our tent, which was some screen from the inclemency of it. On the 11th, I got to Belvoir, where I stopped one day to take necessary rest, and then set out and arrived in Wil- liamsburg the 16th, when I waited upon his Honour the Governor, with the letter I had brought from the French commandant, and to give an account of the success of my proceedings. This I beg leave to do by offering the fore- going narrative, as it contains the most remarkable occur- rences which happened in my journey. I hope what has been said will be sufficient to make your Honour satisfied with my conduct, for that was my aim in undertaking the journey, and chief study throughout the prosecution of it. 246 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. Letter op Governor Dinwiddie of Virginia to the French Commandant on the Ohio. Sir : — The lands upon the river Ohio, in the western parts of the Colony of Virginia, are so notoriously known to be the property of the Crown of Great Britain, that it is a matter of equal concern and surprise to me to hear that a body of French forces are erecting fortresses and making settlements upon that river, within his Majesty's dominions. The many and repeated complaints I have received of these acts of hostility, lay me under the necessity of sending, in the name of the king, my master, the bearer hereof, George Washington, Esq., one of the adjutants-general of the forces of this dominion ; to complain to you of the encroachments thus made, and of the injuries done to the subjects of Great Britain, in violation of the law of nations, and the treaties now subsisting between the two crowns. If these facts be true, and you think fit to justify your proceedings, I must desire you to acquaint me by whose authority and instruc- tions, you have lately marched from Canada with an armed force, and invaded the King of Great Britain's territories, in the manner complained of; that according to the pur- pose and resolution of your answer, I may act agreeably to the commission I am honored with, from the king my mas- ter. However, Sir, in obedience to my instructions, it be- comes my duty to require your peaceable departure ; and TOUR TO THE OHIO. 247 that you will forbear prosecuting a purpose so interruptive of the harmony and good understanding which his Majesty is desirous to continue and cultivate with the most Chris- tian king, 248 DIARY OF WASHINGTON. form myself to them with all the exactness and resolution which can be expected from the best officer. I do not know that in the progress of this campaign, any thing has passed, which can be reputed an act of hostility, or that is contrary to the treaties which subsist between the two crowns; the con- tinuation whereof as much interesteth, and is as pleasing to us, as to the English. Had you been pleased, Sir, to have de- scended to particularize the facts, which occasioned your complaint, I should have had the honor of answering you in the fullest, and, I am persuaded, in the most satisfactory manner, &c. Le Gardeur i>e St. Pierre. From the Fort sur la Riviere au Bceuf, December 15, 1753.