Oass. 11 Rnnk , hkrsa r Ml^SISiU) VALLEY. HISTORY OF THL MISSISCO VALLEY. 37 / BY SAMUEL SUMNER, M. A. '^^7 WITH AN INTRODUCTORY NOTICE OF ORLEANS COUNTY, BY REV. S. R. HALL. PUBLISHED UNDER THE AUSPICES OF THE ORLEANS COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY. IRASBURGH: A. A. EARLE, BOOK PRINTER. 1860. 9U '^7 PEEFACE. The objects of the Orleans County Natural and Civil JIiSTORiCAL Society, formed in 1853, are expressed in the first Article of the Constitution — to be, " to promote the study of Natural History, primarily of Orleans Coimty and Northern Vermont ; — rand also, to collect and preserve, while the early settlers in the county are able to furnish them, the items of interest in the civil history of the county, which would otherwise be soon lost to the future historian." While the object, first mentioned, has not been neglected, and a valuable cabinet of minerals has been contributed, and many interesting articles collected, — there have been strong reasons for maTcing the second object a leading one, during the first years of the Tabors of the Society. The natural history of the county is, from year to year, becoming more and more developed ; but the means of gathering up the incidents of pioneer life, hardships, sufferings, &c., are 'yearly diminishing. It is, therefore, proper that the early publications of the Society should have reference, rather to the civil, than the natural history of the County. That portion, now committed to the press, has precedence, because first prepared, by the p7-aiseivorthy energy of the Author, It will be preceded by a very brief general notice of the County, omitting details, till after a notice of Black River valley, and Barton and Clyde River valleys shall have been prepared and published. ORLEANS COUNTY. This County is situated in the central part of Northern Vermont ; being bounded on the North by Canada East, on the South by Caledonia, on the East by Essex, and on the West by Franklin and Lamoille counties. It was an unbroken wilderness till after the Revolutionary war, and inhabited only by Indians. Hunters had visited it, and soldiers had passed through some portions of it, in military excursions. A portion of Rogers' men, returning, after the destruction of St. Francis indian village in 1759, passed through, from Memphremagog lake, by Lake Beautiful, in Barton, on their way to the foot of the jfifteen mile falls, on Connecticut river, or what was then called lower Coos! Marks made on the trees by these sol- diers, it is believed have been discovered in several towns, and also a ^^ shirt of mail" and the remnants of an "iron spider " have been found, that were probably left by them. A son of one of these soldiers is now a resident in tlie county, after the lapse of more than a century ! Many years later, a military road was made through the South-West portion of the county, to Hazens' notch in the present town of Westfield. The traces of that road, though made during the early part of the Revolution, are still distinct in Greensboro, Craftsbury, Albany, and Lowell. The county was incorporated November 5, 1792, and em- braced twenty-two townships and some gores. Craftsbury and Brownington, were constituted half-shire towns. When the new county Lamoille was constituted, three towns were embraced in the limits of that county, and the area of Orleans was diminished by more than one hundred square miles. Irasburgh was constituted the shire town in 1816. The number of towns remaining in the county is nineteen. The physical geography, and geology of Orleans county are diverse from any other portion of the State. It is situated almost wholly within the Y of the Green mountians. The streams mostly flow northerly and north westerly, toward Mem- phremagog lake. The Missisco river flows northerly, till it enters Canada, and then turning westward finds a pas- sage into Champlain. But the upper valley of this stream is appropriately classed with others, the waters from which flow into Memprhemagog. The latter lake, at no very distant geological period, no doubt, covered the low lands of the Missisco valley, as well as those bordering on Black, Barton and Clyde rivers. The highest land between the lake and Missisco valley is, in some places, probably not more than one hundred to one hundred and fifty feet. The county is more abundantly supplied with lakes, ponds and streams, than any other portion of Vermont, if not New England, of equal area. Black, Barton and Clyde river, are almost entirely limited to the county, also the head waters of the Missisco, and Wild branch. Several streams which flow north into Conada, and empty into Magog and St. Francis rivers, rise in ponds within the county. A considerable portion of Memphremagog lake, Caspian lake, Willoughby lake, Morgan lake, Chrystal lake, or Lake Beautiful, are with a very large number of ponds, within the county. These ponds and lakes furnished abundance of the finest fish, to the Indians, hunters and early settlers*. They also were the home of numerous beaver and otter; while the meadows on the numerous rivers, furnished rich pasture to moose and deer, thousands of which were killed principally for their skins. The face of the country differs considerably from other parts of the state. The general slope is northward ; and though there is considerable difference in the height of arable land, the highest points are reached by a general rise, and the summits or ridges are capable of convenient cultivation. Precipitous cliffs and ledges are very uncommon, except on the western boundary. From Hazens notch to Jay peak, is a continuous mountain range, varying from 2500 to 4000 feet above the ocean. The summit of Jay peak, in the north-west corner of Westfield, is 4018 feet above tide water. The summit of Westmore mountain, in the extreme east part, is nearly 3000 feet. EUigo Pond, Craftsburj', is 863 feet above the ocean. Hosmore Pond, " 1001 " " Lake Beautiful, Barton, 933 " Island Pond, Salem, 967 " Pensioners Pond, Charleston, 1140 " Island Pond, Brighton, 1182 " " Morgan Lake, Morgan, 1160 " Willoughby Lake, Westmore, 1161 " Memphremagog Lake, 695 " South Troy village. 740 " " Irasburgh, (Court House), 875 " " Barton village, 953 " Derby, (Centre). 975 " " Derby, (Line), 1050 " Craftsbury Common, 1158 " '" BrowningtOD, (village), 1113 " * About the year 1800, Mr. Erastus Spencer, ■5\'ith Mr. Elijah Spencer, and two others residing in the east part of Brownington, went to a pond near the foot of Bald mountain in Westmore, and in a single day caught more than 500 pounds of trout, weighed after being dressed. They were obliged to procure oxen to carrj- home the avails of their days work ! ' ■ Cultivated lands in Holland, Greensboro', Westmore and a portion of Glover, vary from 1100 to 1500 feet above the ocean. Most of the lands lying on the rivers, vary from 700 to 1000. Much of the table land, lying between the streams, is of the best quality for cultivation and grazing. The mead- ows and intervals are unsurpassed by any in the state. The soil differs materially in different parts of the county, by the character of the rock in place. The prevailing rock in Missisco valley is talcose slate. This variety of rock con~ tains very little carbonate of lime, and decomposes very slowly. The soil will, therefore, be deficient in lime, except on the intervals, or drift soil. The rock in the extreme eastern part of the county is mostly granite or gneiss. The decomposition of these rocks, is not rapid, but suJBficiently so, to furnish new materials of value to the soil. The remaining portion of the county is embraced in the calcareous mica slate region. These varieties of rock, lime stone, clay and horn- blend slate, are found interstratified, and all are inclined to very rapid decomposition, so that the soil will be constantly enriched by the addition of lime, and the other materials embraced in the rocks. Decomposed lime and hornblend slates form the very best varieties of soil for wheat, grass^ barley, &c. In the northern part of the county the soil is a deep loam, resulting from di'ift agency, and in many instances, covering the rock in place to a great depth. This soil, originating in a region of purer limestone at the north, is rich in salts of lime and very highly productive. Troy, Newport, Coventry, Derby and Holland, contain many thousand acres of this variety of soil, of great excellence. A prominent fact, in the entire calcareous mica slate re- gion, is the immense growth of sphagnous peat or muck. This 8 substance has already filled the basins of many original ponds, and those formed by beavers ; and is rapidly accumulating on the borders of many others. Beneath many of these beds of peat, or muck, shell marl is found in large quantities, fur- nishing abundant material for manufacturing the best quality quality of caustic lime. When peat or muck is combined with ■wood ashes, or lime, in the proportions of two bushels of the latter to a cord of the former, it is more valuable as manure than any made at the barn. Nothing exceeds it in value, as a topdressing for grass lands. The abundance and distribu- tion of this substance is very remarkable. In one town the writer surveyed the deposites of muck, and found more than 640 cords for each acre of land in the township. Many other towns have an equal supply. These beds of muck constitute the future iveallk of the agriculturist. Most of the arable land in the county may be easily enriched, to any degree desired. The natural soil is not inferior to that in any por- tion of New England, but these resources of indefinitely increasing its fertility, add immensely to its value. Another part should be noticed. The numerous rivers and streams in the county furnish an immense amount of most valuable water 'power. Excellent sites for mills, factories, &c., abound; — only a small part of which have as yet been improved. This should excite no surprise, when it is remem- bered that but little more than half a century has elapsed, since the Indian wigwam occupied the site of our smiling villages, and the "wild fox dug his hole unscared," in what are now our best cultivated fields, and where rural dwellings are scattered over hill, plain and valley. The climate does not vary materially from other portions of the state of similar latitude and altitude. The altitude is greater than that of the Champlain valley, but less than 9 the upper valley of Conuecticui river. The Memphremagog' lake and other large bodies of water moditj the temperature^ and the average range of the thermometer at Craftsbury, Brownington and Derby, is only a few degrees lower than at Burlington, The winters are long, and the cold somewhat severe. But the greater uniformity of temperature, from November to April, than what is usual, either in Champlain valley, or on the Atlantic slope, in the same latitude, is an important compensation- Men and animals suffer less from a continuous low temperature, than by frequent changes from a higher to a lower. The thermometer does not fall so low, as at places considerably further south. Early frosts are less frequent than in many parts of Massacliusetts. There are really but tivo seasons, summer and winter. The transition from one to the other is commonly sudden. The only real inconvenience to the agriculturalist is the shortness of seedtime. The summers are generally suffi- ciently long and warm to mature corn — the exceptions being rare, in favorable locations. Domestic animals not only thrive and mature well, but have a decided preference in the market over those reared in many other sections of country. Better horses, oxen, or cows, than the average of those reared in the county, are not easy to find. The quantity of butter made from a cow, is not exceeded, if equaled, iu any pari of New England.* The forest trees are similar to those generally in northern New England and Canada East. The arbor vita, (white cedar,) is however more abundant, and of larger size than in any other portion of the northern states. The sugar maple is the glory of the forests, furnishing as it does in every town, ♦More than two hundred pounds per cow, has been sold frequently from dairies of considerable size, beside the supplies of a family. 10 an important revenue of saccharine secretions, conducive alike to health, pleasure and profit. The noble pine, formerly abundant, has, alas, suflfered so much from Vajidal extirpators, as hardly to have a represen- tative now of its once toiverino- height and srisantlc hidk. Ruthless hands have laid this forest king in an untimely grave ! True, here and there a scattered few remain, that feebly represent the glory of the fallen, as the Indian of this age does the Phillips and Tecumsehs of the former. Would that the insane cupidity of early settlers had spared a few of these magnificient specimens of the former forests. But all that our children can know of them, is learned from the large stumps that yet adhere to the earth which reared them.* A few of the immense elms remain, and it is hoped may long be preserved, to exhibit a trace of the magnificence of the early forests. The first settlements in the county were made simultane- ously at Greensboro and Craftsbury, in 1788. Most of the other towns were settled prior to the commencement of the present century. An account of the early settlers, their hardships and sufferings will be more appropriately given in the history of the several towns, the publication of which it is hoped will not be long delayed. The history of Black River Valley, embracing Greensboro' and Newport, is in an advanced state of preparation. The history of Barton and Clyde River Valley's, together with the towns of Holland and Morgan, it is hoped will be completed at no distant period, and also a full account of the natural history of this portion of Vermont. S. R. H. »A pine recently felled in Coventry, yielded 4131 feet of inch boards ! MISSISCO VALLEY. I. — GEOGRAPHY. The upper valley of the Missisco, comprising the towns of Troy, Westfield, Jay, Lowell, and a small portion of the Province of Canada, lies between the Western range of the Green Momitains, and the range of highlands dividing the waters of the Missisco from those of Black River and Lake Memphreraagog. The "Western lines of Jay, Westfield, and Lowell, com- monly extend a short distance over the summits of the Green Mountain range, which divides Orleans from Franklin County ; but the East lines of Troy and Lowell generally do not extend to the height of land towards Black River and Lake Memphremagog. The length of the valley in a direct line from Canada line to the South line of Lowell and the source of the Missisco river, is about eighteen miles. The width of the whole valley from the summit of the mountains West, to the height of laud on the East, is from six to ten miles. The towns of Jay and Westfield are each, according to their char- ters, six miles square. The town of Troy lies on the East of these towns, almost the entire length of them, and is oblong and irregular in its form, being eleven and one half miles in length from North to South, whilst the North line is about five miles, and its South 12 line about two miles in length. The town of Lowell lies South of both Troy and Westfield, and is still more irregular in its form, being almost in the shape of a triangle, and con- tains thirty-seven thousand acres. These four towns, accord- ing to their charters and original surveys, contain one hundred and six thousand and eighty acres. The general face of the country is that of two great slopes or inclined plains, extend- ing from the summits of the two chains of mountains to their common centre — ^the Missisco river. The height of the Western or Green Mountain chain is from fifteen hundred to four thousand feet, and of the Eastern range from three hundred to fifteen hundred feet, above the river. II. PONDS AND STREAMS. There are no natural ponds of any size in this valley ; the regular slope and steep ascent of hills preventing the accu- mulation and retention of water to make them. Neither are there many streams or brooks of much size. Near the con- fluence of the Missisco with the North or Potton Branch, a stream of considerable size, called Mud Creek, unites with the Missisco river from the East. This stream rises in Newport, and after running some dis- tance almost parallel with Troy line, passes into Troy, and after crossing the Northeastern part of that town, runs into Potton and pays the tribute of its waters to the Missisco, a short distance above its junction with the North Branch. Around the confluence of these three streams is a large basin of interval or meadow land, extending both into Troy and Potton, which for fertility may well compare with any in the State. Above this creek there is no stream of any size run- ning into the Missisco from the East for several miles. The 13 first which occurs is the Beadle Brook, named from an early settler, who erected his cabin in the wilderness on its banks. This stream also rises in Newport, and running West, unites with the Missisco. On the West side of the river the first stream of any consequence is Jay Branch, which is the largest of Jill the Branches. It rises in Jay,, and after receiving almost all the rivulets of that town, runs into the Missisco in Troy, about four miles South of the State line. Farther South is the Coburn Brook, so called. This stream rises in Westfield and unites with the Missisco a short distance from Troy village, almost opposite the mouth of the Beadle Brook. About two miles farther South the Missisco receives a large accession to its waters from the Taft Branch, which runs through Westfield village, and receives in its course almost all the smaller rivulets of Westfield. Another stream rises in Lowell, near Hazen's Notch, and running through the Northwestern part of that town, joins the Mis- sisco near Westfield line. These are all the principal branches of tlie Missisco in the valley ; but the river receives large accessions from number- less springs and smaller rivulets j though the streams men- tioned are the only ones large enough for mill sites. The valley is abundantly supplied with water power, the Missisco and its tributaries afi'ordihg power enough to move all the cotton factories of New England. The Missisco river, which, with the mountains, is the most prominent feature of the valley, rises in the chain of hills or highlands Southwest of the county, separating the waters of the Lamoille from the streams running into the Missisco and Lake Memphremagog. Two streams or branches rising in this chain of hills near the line between Lowell and Eden, and on the opposite sides 14 of Mount Norris, unite near Lowell village and form the Missisco river. The Eastern branch, just before its junction with the other, runs over a series of rapids or ledges, afford- ing many excellent mill sites. After the union of the two streams the river runs in a Northeasterly course two or three miles, in the town of Lowell, crosses the town line into W^st- field, and runs thence four miles through the Southeastern part of that town and passes into Troy, and flows almost the entire length of that town. For several miles below Lowell vilTage, the river flows with a gentle current through a valuable body of interval, but has no falls or rapids suitable for mill sites. The first water fall suitable for mills is about a mile below Troy village, at Phe'ps's Falls. Below these falls the meadows are not so continuous ; high rocky bluffs occasionally appear, intermin- gled with frequent tracts of fertile intervals. In passing these ledges the course of the river is commonly rapid, and the fall sufficient for mills. Four of these falls occur between the falls just mentioned and North Troy, two only of which have been improved, one where the furnace is erected, and the other at the Great Falls. The most remarkable of these falls is about one and a half miles south of North Troy, called the Great Falls, described in Thompson's Vermont. The fall in this river is probably not so great as described by Mr. Thompson, but the over- hanging cliff presents a scene truly grand — almost terrific. The river here runs over a steep, rocky bottom, through a zig-zag channel, worn through a ledge of rocks. • The banks rise precipitously, and on one side absolutely overhang the river to the height of from eighty to one hundred feet, and the dizzy visitor in viewing the cataract in the time of high 15 water, from the overhanging cliff, is filled with awe at the wild sublimity and grandeur of the scene. The river then runs to the village of North Troy, where there is an excellent fall for mills, and three-fourths of a mile below North Troy crosses the State line into Canada. After running about three miles in Potton it unites with another stream called the North Branch, which is about one-third less than the Southern or Troy branch of the Missisco. This north branch rises some sixteen or eighteen miles farther North in the town of Bolton, and passing through that town- ship and Potton, runs through a valley very much resembling our own. These two vallies may be compared to two vast amphithe- atres, enclosed on one side by the Green Mountains, and on the other by the range of hills dividing the Missisco valley from the valley of the Memphremagog. The two rivers run in almost opposite directions, the one North and the other South, from their sources to their point of confluence ; and the whole valley on these two rivers extends almost in a straight line from the defile which we pass between Lowell and Eden, about forty or fifty miles to a similar defile at the head of the North branch in Bolton ; affording a direct and level route which will at some future day be a great thorough- fare from the central part of this State to the heart of the French settlements in the valley of the St. Lawrence. The Geography of Vermont presents one remarkable fea- ture. Our highest chain, the Western range of the Green Mountains, is intersected by our largest rivers, the Winooski, Lamoille and Missisco. But the course of the Missisco through these highlands is the most singular, and is perhaps an exception to all others. In passing this range of mountains, we might naturally 16 expect a succession of liigh, precipitoui? cliffs for river banks/ and a channel abounding with precipices and water falls ; but instead of this, the river from Troy to Richford, passing the mountains, flows through fertile and level meadows, with a sluggish current, without a rapid or water fall, until it re- enters the State at Richford. III. — SOIL. Through the valley the course of the river is generally lined with a succession of rich alluvial intervals. Much of this is overflowed by the spring freshets and produces luxu- riant crops of grass and most kinds of grain — particularly Indian corn. Ascending from these intervals at no great height are commonly found either large plains or gently ele- vated hills composed of sand, clay, and gravel or loam, in which sand generally predominates ; the whole often being well mixed. These plains and hills are easily tilled and well adapted to most kinds of produce. Rising still farther and receding from the river, is found a great slope or inclined plane, of easy ascent. These gener- ally have a rich soil resting on a substratum of rock or hard- pan, and are well adapted to the culture of grass, English grain, potatoes and fruit. Ascending still farther the soil becomes thinner, and rocks and ledges more frequent. This land when cleared produces a good crop of grain and then affords a rich pasture. The summits of the mountains on the "West are generally steep, and are composed of rock covered with a thin soil, and a growth of stunted Evergreens. This glade of land does not generally occupy a space of more than from half a mile to a mile in width and is almost the only land in the valley which can be called worthless. 17 The valley is of easy access from abroad, notwithstanding the chains of mountains which appear to surround and hem it in. The most uneven and difficult roads leading into it, are from the East. On the South a defile at the head of the Missisco affords a level and easy entrance from the valley of the Lamoille, and on the North a like defile at the head of the North branch affords like facilities for a road, so that without encountering a hill, we may pass from the valley of the Lamoille through this valley to that of the St. Lawrence ; whilst on the West the broad vale, through which the river passes, affords every advantage for a smooth and level road to the great valley of Lake Champlain. The general appear- ance of the valley is naturally picturesque and interesting^ presenting many prospects of surpassing beauty and sublim- ity, and were it improved by cultivation and adorned by wealth and taste, it might well compare with the celebrated vales of Italy and Greece. IV. — ROCKS AND MINERALS. The two great chains of mountains which enclose the valley, on the East and West, are composed of rock similar to other parts of the Green Mountain range. Talcose slate is the prominent rock of the Western range. Argillaceous slate, interstratified with the former, and with Alterated slate, and Novaculite, constitutes the Eastern hills. Granite ap- pears in the valley of Lake Memphremagog, but none is found in the Missisco valley, or farther West, except occa- sional boulders, among loose stone. Near the highest parts of the mountains West, is a variety of Talcose slate, much harder than usually abounds, which has sometimes been called Green Mountain Gneiss. Veins of quartz abound in it. 3 18 iThis is a gold bearing rock, and gold has been found in it. The most striking features of the valley are the immense ranges of serpentine and soapstone. There are two ranges of the former, and two of the latter ; extending from Potton on the North, to Lowell in the South end of the valley. The quantity of serpentine in Lowell and Westfield, is greater than in any other part of the county. The Eastern range contains the veins of Magnetic Iron Ore, which supplied the furnace at Troy. The quantity is inexhaustible ; but the ore contains Titanium, and is hard to smelt. The iron when manufactured) is of the best quality, having great strength and hardness. It is finely adapted to make wire, screws, &c. It would make the best kind of rails for railroads. Should a railroad be constructed in the Missisco valley, this ore will be of immense value to the county and state. It might, even now, be wrought with profit to the owners. It makes the most valuable hollow ware and stoves. In the serpentine range on the West side ot the river, is found Chromate of Iron, a mineral of great value in the arts. The largest beds of it are in the Eastern part of Jay, within one and a half miles of Missisco river. Small beds of Chromate of Iron have been found in the serpentine range, on the East side of the river, South of the Magnetic Iron ore, in both Troy and Westfield. Most beau- tiful specimens of Asbestos, common and Ligniform, are found in the serpentine at Lowell and Westfield. This serpentine might be wrought, and would be found of equal value to any in the state. It contains the most beautiful veins of Amian- thus and Bitter Spar. Some varieties resemble Verde An- tique. The soapstone which accompanies the serpentine, is gener- ally hard, but no doubt might, in many places, be wrought to great advantage- 19 Several mineral springs have been discovered, and they appear to be impregnated more or less with sulphur and iron, some with magnesia. Most of them are of little or no value. There is, however, one of these springs near the line be- tween Troy and Lowell, which merits an examination, and a more perfect description than can here be given. The waters have never been analyzed, but have been much resorted to and used. They have a strong sulphurous taste and smell, and very much resemble the taste of the Highgate and Alburgh springs. The water operates as a powerful diuretic, and is considered very efficacious for sores and humors, and has been much used in the vicinity for those and other complaints. If the waters of the spring were analyzed, and their properties made known, they would doubtless draw to them many visitors and invalids. But the most distinguished feature in the Geology of our valley, is its vast deposits of iron ore before mentioned. The principal mine of iron ore was discovered in 1833; it lies in the central part of the town of Troy, in a high hill, about three-fourths of a mile East of the river. V. CHARTERS AND GRANTS OP LAND. The town of Troy was originally granted in two gores of nearly equal extent ; the North to Samuel Avery, and the South to John Kelley, in 1792. Westfield was granted to Daniel Owen and his associates in 1780. All or nearly all the grantees of this town resided in Rhode Island. Lowell was granted in 1791 to John Kelley, from whom the town received its original name of Kelley Vale. Jay was granted two-thirds to the celebrated John Jay of New York, and John Cozyne, and the other third in the South part of the 20 town, to Thomas Chittenden, the first governor of this State. It would probably be a curious piece of history, if we could know the motives which were urged, and the intrigues used to obtain these grants, and the management and speculations of the grantees if the grants were obtained. The policy of the State in making these and other grants at that time, may well be questioned. The State, probably, never realized any pecuniary advan- vantage from them. The reason commonly urged for these lavish grants, was to advance the settlement of wild lands in the State. The effect was usually different from what was intended. These towns at the time they were chartered were remote from any settlement, and some of them had been granted twenty years before any settlement was made in them. The lands in the mean time fell into the hands of specu- lators ; and by sales, levies of Executions, and vendues for taxes, titles often became confused and doubtful. Prices were enhanced by such speculators endeavoring to realize a fortune from their adventure, and whilst some speculators realized large sums from their lands, most of them, from expenses of surveys, agencies, and land taxes, and interest of money on these advances, sustained heavy losses. In many instances, when early settlements were attempted, the consequences were disastrous to the settlers. A few families were prematurely pushed into a remote wilderness without roads, mills or any of the conveniences and institu- tions of civilized life, and were left to encounter innumerable hardships and privations, and run the hazard of themselves and their families relapsing into barbarism. Had the State retained these lands a few years longer, and granted them only as they were needed for actual settlers, it 21 might have realized a handsome profit from the lands ; titles would have been better, a fruitful source of speculation and knavery prevented, a vast amount of suffering and privation avoided, and the condition of the settlers and their families improved. The North gore of Troy was sold by Mr. Avery to a Mr. Atkinson, an English merchant residing in Boston. It is said that Avery received one dollar per acre for his lands ; if so, he doubtless realized a handsome profit, tut how Atkinson fared in the trade may be inferred from the fact that these lands have commonly been sold for two dollars per acre, and that after sustaining the expenses of agencies, and innumer- able land taxes for more than half a century. A few of these lots remain unsold, and are still owned by his heirs and descendants. Kelley sold his grant to Franklin & Robinson, a firm in. New York. They failed, and the grant passed into the hands of a Mr. Hawxhurst of New York. His land speculations were about as successful as Atkin- son's. A few of his lots of land still remain unsold, in the hands of his son; As for the town of Lowell, from some old conveyances, we may infer that Kelley's interest passed as soon as obtained into the hands of his creditors, among whom were some of the first names in New York, as Alexander Hamilton, the Livingstons and others, who condescended to speculate in the wild lands of Vermont, and sold the town to one William Duer, for $4,680. The titles of most of the lands of this town have been bandied about from one speculator to another, through a maze of conveyances, levies of execution, and vendue sales for taxes, and a large portion of the town is to this day held by non-resident owners. 22 In Jay a portion of the town granted to Governor Chit« tenden, is still owned by his descendants ; a part of their grant has been sold mostly within a few years. Of the part granted to Judge Jay a portion of it was sold by his son twenty years since, but the greater portion of this grant passed into the hands of Judge Williams of Concord, about half a century. ago, and about fifteen years since he gave his unsold lands, being about fifty or sixty lots, to the University of Vermont. Bilt a small portion of the lands of this town were purchased and paid for by actual settlers previous to the last twenty years. VI. — SETTLEMENT OF TROY AND OTHER TOWNS. The military road made by Colonel Uazen during the rev- olutionary war, from Peacham to Hazen's Notch in Lowell, had a tendency to extend the knowledge of the Missisco valley, and create an interest in it. The fertile meadows in Troy and Potton, attracted attention. Mr. Josiah Elkins, of Peacham,* a noted hunter and Indian trader, in company with Lieutenant Lyford, early explored the Northern part of Orleans County. Their route was to follow Hazen's road to the head of Black River, and thence to Lake Memphremagog, where they hunted for furs and traded with the St. Francis Indians, who then frequented the shores of that Lake. Elkins and Lyford sometimes extended their hunting excursions into the Missisco valley. The reports they and other hunters and traders made, probably induced an exploration of the valley with a view to forming a settlemeat. In 1796 or '97, a paity of several men from' Peacham, of !23 which Captain Moses Elkins, a brother of Josiah Elkins, was one, came up and explored the county. They agreed to come hither and settle, but none of them except Captain Elkins had the hardihood to carry this resolution into effect. He started from Peacham June 7th, 1797, with his furniture in a cart drawn by a yoke of oxen and a yoke of bulls, and one cow driven by his son Mark, a boy of nine years old, and two hired men. After three days they arrived at Craftsbury, where they were joined by three men from Richford, making a party of six men and one boy. They proceeded on the old Hazen road until they crossed the river in Lowell, cutting out their road as they went. Mrs. Elkins followed them some days after, riding on horseback with a child three years old, and attended by a hired man. They overtook her husband and his party, June 16th, near the centre of Jay, where they camped for the night, and the next day they arrived at their home in Potton, which consisted of four crotches set in the ground, and covered with poles and bark. Captain Elkins made some improvement on his land, but on the approach of winter he went down to Richford and wintered there, and returned to his land the next spring. He was probably the first white man who settled in this valley. In 1797, a Mr. Morrill moved into Troy, and erected tt house about half a mile East of the village of North Troy, and probably was the first white man who ever wintered in the valley. In the fall of 1798, Josiah Elkins moved his brother Curtis Elkins into Potton, and they erected a house on the place called the Bailey farm, about half a mile North of the line. The house was built of logs of course, but they cut, split, and hewed basswood logs, for their supply of boards and shingles. 24 Curtis Elkius remained with his family during the winter in this house. Josiah Elkins moved from Greensboro' into Potton, Feb, 26, 1799, with his wife and three children, and moved into the house with his brother Curtis. His route was by what was called the Lake Road. The first night in his journey he stopped in Glover ; the next in Newport, in what was called the old lake settlement ; and on the third day he arrived at his new home. The settlement then consisted of Mr. Morrill in Troy, Capt. Moses Elkins, Curtis Elkins, and Abel Skinner, Esq., in Potton. Mr. Jacob Garland and his son-in-law, Jonathan Heath were there at that time, and moved in their families a short time after. In the same winter or the following springs Mr. James Rines and Mr. Bartlett moved into Troy, and set- tled about a mile South af North Troy village, on the meadows below the great falls. Mr. Hoyt also moved into Troy, and settled on the meadows about half a mile North of North Troy village. Col. Ruyter also, the same winter or spring, moved into the the West part of Potton, some three or four miles farther down the river. A most melancholy event occurred soon after, which cast a deep gloom and sorrow over the little colony, and the sad story still lingers in the traditions and rccollectians of the oldest inhabitants. On June 10th, 1799, a great freshet occurred, and the waters of th« river were swollen to an unusual height. The settlers prompted by a transient adventurer who had visited them, had provided themselves with several large and elegant pine canoes, to supply the deficiency of roads and bridges, and to enable them to pursue their favorite pastime of fishing and rowing on the water. 25 Col. Ruyter had recently established, at his residence down the river, a store of goods, which, according to the custom of those days, consisted principally of groceries. The colonists, numbering fifteen or twenty men, in five canoes, proceeded down the river to visit the Colonel and his store, and test the goodness of his groceries. The hours passed jollily away and the day was far spent before the party was ready to return. Returning in the evening, when within a mile of their homes the canoe in which were the three sons of Esq. Skinner, and two other men, was upset, and the men were precipitated in an instant into the rapid and swollen current. Three of the five were rescued by their companions, but the two eldest sons of Esq. Skinner, young men about eighteen and twenty years of age, were swept away by the resistless waters and perished. These young men were said to be of great promise, the main hope of their parents ; and whatever may have been the condition of some of the party, they were perfectly sober. After vainly attempting to rescue these unfortunate youths, the party were compelled to give up all hopes of recovering them, and had to carry heavy tidings to the bereaved parents. The news caused a paroxysm of despair and insanity to the unhappy father. It required the exertions of several men during the night and following day, to restrain the raving father from rushing to the river, and plunging into the stream to recover his sons, as he vainly thought to bring them back to life from their watery grave. After watching the waters and searching the river for a week, the sympathizing neighbors recovered the bodies of the young men. One of the settlers who was a professor of religion, and was considered a pious man, officiated at the funeral, a prayer was offered, and the remains of the two 4 26 brightest hopes of the valley were decently and sorrowfully consigned to the parent dust. Three or four weeks after- wards, Judge Olds who had settled in Westfield, and who had formerly been a clergyman, was called upon to preach a funeral sermon, which was from the appropriate text, " Be still and know that I am God." Tradition relates two well authenticated circumstances, connected with this mournful event, which may be worthy the attention of the physiologist. One is that the despairing father, who was then a man of middle age, with scarce a grey hair on his head, became in a few days grey, and his hair soon turned almost white. The other circumstance is that the mother, who was then laboring under an attack of the fever and ague, was restored by the shock the news gave her ; the periodical chill was broken, and she had no more returns of her complaint that season. Several families moved into Troy and Potton in 1799, and in the winter of 1799 and 1800, a small party of Indians, of whom the chief man was Capt. Susap, joined the colo- nists, built their camps on the river, and wintered near them. These Indians were represented as being in a necessitous and almost starving condition, which probably arose from the moose and deer (which formerly abounded here) being destroyed by the settlers. Their principal employment was making baskets, birch bark cups and pails, and other Indian trinkets. They left in the spring and never returned. They appeared to have been the most numerous party, and resided the longest time of any Indians who have ever visited the valley since the commencement of the settlement. One of these Indians, a woman called Molly Oi»cntt, excr- 27 cised her skill in a more dignified profession, and her intro- duction to the whites was rather curious. In the fall or beginning of the winter in 1799, one of the settlers purchased and brought in a barrel of whiskey and two half barrels of gin and brandy. The necessities of the people for this opportune supply may be inferred from the fact that the whole was drunk or sold and carried off within three days from its arrival. The arrival of a barrel of liquor in the settlement was, at that time, hailed with great demonstrations of joy, and there was a i eneral gathering at the opening of the casks. So it was on this occasion, a large party from Troy, Potton, and even from Richford, were assembled for the customary carousal. Their orgies were held in a new house, and were prolonged to a late hour of the night. A transient rowdy from abroad by the name of Perkins, happened there at that time, and in the course of the night grew insolent and insulting, and a fight ensued between him and one Norris, of Potton. In the contest Norris fell, or was knocked into a great fire that was burning in the huge Dutch back chimney which was in the room. Norris' hair and clothes were severely scorched, but the main injury he sustained was in one hand which was badly burned. The flesh inside of the hand was burned, or torn ofi" by the fall, so that the cords were exposed. The injury was so serious that it was feared he would lose the use of his hand. A serious diflSculty now arose ; there was no doctor in the settlement, no Pain Extractors or other patent medicines had found their way there, and no one in the valley had skill or confidence enough to undertake the management of so difficult a case. Molly Orcutt was known as an Indian doctress, and then 28 resided some miles off, near the Lake. She was sent for, and came and built her camp near by, and undertook the case, and the hand was restored. Her medicine was an applica- tion of warm milk punch. Molly's fame as a doctress was now raised. The dysentery broke out with violence that winter, particularly among children, and Molly's services were again solicited, and she again undertook the work of mercy, and again she succeeded. But in this case Molly maintained all the reserve and taciturnity of her race, she retained the nature of her prescription to herself, she pre- pared her nostrum in her own camp, and brought it in a coffee pot to her patients, and refused to divulge the ingredients of her prescription to a^iy one ; but chance and gratitude drew it from her. In the March following, as Mr. Josiah Elkins and his wife were returning from Peacham, they met Molly at Arnold's mills in Derby ; she was on her way across the wilderness to the Connecticut river, where she said she had a daughter married to a white man. Mr. Elkins inquired into her means of prosecuting so long a journey through the forest and snows of winter, and found she was but scantily supplied with pro- visions, having nothing but a little bread. With his wonted generosity, Mr. Elkins immediately cut a slice of pork of five or six pounds out of the barrel he was carrying home, and gave it to her. My informant remarks she never saw a more grateful creature than Molly was on receiving this gift. " Now you have been so good to me," she exclaimed, " I will tell you how I cured the folks this winter of the dysentery," and told him her receipt. It was nothing more or less than a decoction of the inner bark of the spruce.* * Among my earliest recollections of events was the arrival of Molly at Guild- hall on the Connecticut river, soon after the event before mentioned. She was almost famished, as well she might be, after such a journey ; for if her statements 29 The town of Troy, or as it was then called Missisco, was organized in March, 1802. According to the town record, the inhabitants were warned to meet on March 25, 1302, at nine o'clock in the forenoon to organize the town and choose the necessary town officers. The record also shows that they met agreeably to the warning, chose a moderator, and then voted to adjourn until the next day at ten o'clock in the forenoon. No reason appears on record for this adjournment, and we can scarce suppose the affairs of the infant settlement were so intricate as to require a night's reflection before they could proceed to act, or that the number of their worthies was so great that they could not make a selection of officers for the town. But it appears that they did adjourn, and tradition says they were as drunk as lords, and could not proceed any further in the business of the meeting. It appears, however, by the records of the town, that the good citizens did meet the next day agreeable to adjourn- ment, and chose the usual batch of town officers, including a tythingman, and voted £6,00 of lawful money to be expended on roads, and $10,00 to defray the expenses of the town for the year. From that time the town of Troy has had a re- gular corporate existence, notwithstanding it came so near, in the first town meeting, being strangled in its birth. The first settlers of Troy were from Peacham and the are reliable, she was then more than one hundred years old. She informed my father that her husband fell, in Lovell's war, and that she then had several grand- childi-en. Lovell's war terminated in 1725. If Molly was then only 40 years of age, she must have been bom as early as 1685. If so, she was 115 years old, when she went from Derby to Guildhall in 1800, and might have been 120 or 125. But she lived 17 years after this period. She was at last foand dead, on Mount White Cap, in East Andover, Maine, in 1817, where she had resided for some weeks, gathering blueberries, Her body when found had been partly eaten by a wild animal. I have no doubt that she was nearly 140 years old, at the time of her death. She was certainly very familiar with the events of " Lovell's fight," and the war next preceding. I saw and conversed with her frequently, from 1812 to 1816, and have no doubt, that she was bom earlier than 1685, and that her statements were generally to be credited. S. R. H. 30 towns on the Connecticut river, many from New Hampshire,, and several were from Lyme. Although there were many worthy persons among them, many able, substantial men who were pioneers in the settle- ment, many men who had nerve and hardihood well fitted to encounter and overcome the hardships and difficulties of a new settlement, yet there were many who resorted thither who were of loose character, and but few comparatively of the first settlers or their descendants now remain among us. They appear to have partaken much of the wild habits of the time, and to have possessed a strong love of excitement and somewhat of a relish for stimulants mental and physical. They lacked not for enterprise, hardihood, and love of adven ture, but were wanting in the staid and regular habits which distinguished the Puritan settlers in the older States in New England, and they seem to have impressed their enthusiasm, and love of excitement on the character of the inhabitants of the town for a long time. The first settlement in Westfield was made by Mr. Jesse Olds in 1798. Mr. Olds was originally from Massachusetts, and was rather a remarkable character for a pioneer in such a settlement. He had been a minister of the gospel, and on one occasion, as before stated, he officiated as a clergyman at the funeral of Esq. Skinner's sons, but it does not appear that he ever acted in that capacity in the valley on any other occasion. He is described as having been a man of some property and of liberal education, of very genteel appear- ance and address, but of a ' lewd and licentious character. Some acts of misconduct or indiscretion had probably induced him to flee from society and seek a refuge in the wilderness. He selected and purchased a lot of land lying near the geo- graphical centre of the town, on a hill some two miles from 31 the present main road. Here he built a log house and moved his wife and family to his solitary home, and here his wife passed one winter with him, without having another woman nearer than twenty miles. After remaining in Westfield several years and clearing up a considerable portion of his land, Mr. Olds removed to Craftsbury, remained there a few years, and finally removed to the State of New York. The lands which he cleared were abandoned, and they and the orchard which he planted were overgrown by the returning forest, until within a few years they have been again reclaimed for a pasture. The next year after the settlement of Mr. Olds in "West- field, Messrs. Hobbs, Hartley and Burgess came into that town and settled on the same range of highlands near him ; and in 1802 the town of Westfield was organized and Mr. Olds was chosen the first town clerk. The year before, he had been elected a Judge of Orleans County Court. In the spring or summer of 1803, Mr. David Barber moved into the town, and in the fall of that year his brother-in-law, Thomas Hitchcock, visited the town with a view to settlino- there and selecting lands for himself and his father, Capt. Medad Hitchcock. Mr. Hitchcock explored thd flats or inter- vals in the Eastern part of the town, where the village of Westfield is now situated, and was much charmed with the appearance they then presented. He said he traced the lot lines from the hill North into the midst of the intervals. They were then covered with large, wide-spreading elms, with scarcely any brush, or any other kinds of timber growing among them. As he wandered among these stately elms, the interval, as he said, appeared to be boundless in extent and to include thousands of acres. Mr. Rodolphus Reed removed from Montague, Massachu- 32 setts, to Westfield, in the fall of 1803. During his journey he was detained by the sickness of his wife, and arrived at Craftsbury late in November. Being impatient to complete his journey before winter had made any further advances, Mr. Reed started for Westfield with his wife who had an infant only two weeks old, and his furniture in a sleigh drawn by two horses. A deep snow had lately fallen, and he sent two men in advance to remove obstructions from the road, and to break a path through the snow. It was his expecta- tion when he left Craftsbury to arrive at Judge Olds's in Westfield that night. Soon after he commenced the day's journey Mr. Reed was overtaken by Judge Olds, who was on horseback, returning from the session of the Legislature which he had attended as representative of Westfield. Judge Olds expressed to Mr. Reed his fears that they would not be able to get through the woods that night, and passed on, promising to send them assistance when he got home. The difficulty of traveling was so great, owing to the depth of the snow and the bad state of the road, that Mr. Reed and his party had advanced but a few miles when night overtook them. They halted, kindled a fire, and prepared to encamp in the woods* and snow. Their supply of provisions and forage for the horses was rather scanty, but as the weather was mild they passed the night without much suflFering. Next morning at the dawn of day they resumed their jour- ney, but with all the exertions they could make they were unable to complete their journey and night again found them in the forest. With much difficulty they succeeded in reaching a place about half a mile from the present site of Lowell village, where Major Caldwell, the summer previous, had felled a few acres of trees and erected a camp, and had then retired for the winter. This camp 33 could hardly aspire to the dignity of a hovel. It consisted of logs laid up on three sides only, and was open at one end for a fire and entrance, and was covered with poles and barks. The camp, humble as it was, afforded a welcome shelter for these weary travellers. The night was cold and as Mr. Reed and his party were then several miles from their place of destination, and their supply of provisions and forage was almost exhausted, the prospect was rather gloomy. Early the next morning they were cheered by the arrival of men, teams, and provisions, which Judge Olds had sent to their re- lief. The journey was resumed and that day, November 27th, 1 803, Mr. Reed and his party arrived safely at Judge Olds's the place of their destination. Before they arrived, the settlement in WestlBeld consisted of the four families of Messrs. Olds, Hobbs, Hartley, and Burgess, and a mulatto man by the name of Prophet, who lived with Judge Olds ; and these constituted the community which Judge Olds had been to represent in the Legislature of Vermont. In 1 804 Capt. Medad Hitchcock with his three sons moved into Westfield, and three or four sons-in-law, and several other relatives soon followed him. This colony of settlers was from Brimfield and other adjoining towns in Massachusetts. They avoided the error of Judge Olds in settling on the high moun- tain side, and settled on the flat or low lands in the Eastern part of the town where the village of Westfield is now located. The first settlers of Westfield appear generally to have dif- fered somewhat from their neighbors in Troy, being of a more sober and sedate character, less impulsive, and perhaps less energetic and less liberal than the first settlers of the adjoining town. The first settler in Lowell was Major William Caldwell who commenced making improvements on his land in 1803, but did 5 34 not move his family into the town until a year or two after. A few families followed him one or two years afterwards, but the town was not organized until the year 1812. Major Caldwell was from Barre, Massachusetts, and be- longed to a class of men who constituted a portion of the early settlers of Vermont. He had seen better days, had been a man of property and standing in Massachusetts, and had held the office of Sheriff in Worcester County. He is des- cribed as having been a man of a liberal and generous dispo- sition, which seems to have caused his ruin. He became in- volved in debt by being bondsman for his friends, lost all his property and fled to the wilds of Vermont.* * There are a few anecdotes connected with the Caldwell family which illustrate the manners of the past and may be worth preserving. The ancestor of Major Caldwell who first settled in this country w.ts Esq. Caldwell a native of Ireland. He was very poor when he came to America, and was one of the early settlers of Barre, Massachusetts. By his industry, perseverance, and good management, Esq. Caldwell amassed a large property in Barre, rose to a very respectable station in society, and was a Justice of the Peace at a period when that office was not so lavishly conferred as it is in this democratic age. In the after part of his life he used to say that the purchase of any farm which he then owned never gave him so much real satisfaction as the purchase of a table when he had saved tlie means to procure that necessary article for his family's use. After he became wealthy Esq., Caldwell had an obsei-vance in his family which is somewhat remarkable for its singularity as well as its propriety. For certain days in each year he and his family returned to the same coarse and scanty fare which he was compelled to use when he first settled in Barre. This he said was designed for a sort of passover, to remind him and his family of the poverty and indigence from which they had arisen. The circumstances of Major Caldwell's removal to "Vermont are also somewhat illustrative of the straits some of our early settlers were reduced to and of the stratagems of that day. After he lost his property, he made arrangements to re- move to Vermont. Some of his creditors got wind of his intention and prepared to arrest him. With some difficulty he escaped his pursuers, took refuge in a tavern, and secreted himself there. The house was quickly beset with deputy sheriffs who suspected the place of his concealment and were watching to arrest him. In this dilemma he sent for a friend, by the name of Brighara to come and see him at the house where he was concealed. Mr. Brigham came in the evening and found the bar-room filled with sheriff's watching for Caldwell. With some difficulty he got an interview with Caldwell and made his arrangements for the escape. He told Caldwell he must wait until late in the night and when he heard a tremendous uproar in the bar-room, come down and escape to the place where there was a horse and sleigh waiting; for him, saying that when he attempted to do anything slyly he made a great noise about it. Brigham then went into the bar-room, called for a mug of flip, and commenced conversation with the sheriffs and others pres- ent. One mug prepared the way for another, and the third and fourth soon fol- lowed. The officers, to relieve themselves of the tedium of watching, willingly joined In carousing and drinking with him, until they got into a somewhat merry mood. In the course of the evening Brigham went out and removed his horse from the place where he had hitched him, and secreted him. He then joined his friends in the bar-room and the carousal was continued. The company supposed Brigham was for a spree and drank freely to carry out the joke of the day of getting him intoxica- ted which was no easy matter. He was a large, athletic man, had been an officer 35 In Jay the first settler was Mr. Barter who came into town in 1809. A few families joined him previous to the war of 1812, but upon the declaration of war they all abandoned the settlement and left him alone. In despite of the war and the cold seasons that followed, he maintained his post like a vete- ran, and, like a skilllul commander, deeming a numerous gar- rison essential to maintain his position, contrived to rear a family of twenty children on the highlands of Jay. The old gentleman survived to the age of nearly ninety. The early settlers of the valley had many and great hard- ships and disadvantages to encounter ; the roads were few, ill-wrought, and badly located, there were but few mechanics, and no regular merchants, and the transient traders who sometimes located for a few months among them commonly had for the main article in their stores, that which is the least valuable of all commodities, spirituous liquors. It was an event of frequent occurrence for the traveler to be lost or belated in the woods, and compelled to remain there through the night. In December, 1807, a Mr. Howard of Westfield, from such an exposure, and from exhaustion in crossing the mountain from Craftsbury to Lowell on foot in a deep snow, lost his life ; and a Mr. Eaton, on the same road and in the in the Revolutionary army, knew the strength of liquor, and would probably bear more liquor than any of them ; besides he knew what he was about and had no in- tention of taking more than he could manage, which he rarely or never did on any occasion, being considered in that day a sober and temperate man. At rather a late hour in the evening Mr. Brigham called on the landlord for his bill, paid it and started apparently for home. He soon returned in a terrible passion saying his horse was gone and accused the company of turning him loose, this was of course denied, the horse was searched for, and it was found he was gone sure enough. This appeared to aggrevate Brigham, more and moi-e flip was called for, but Brig- ham's passion seemed to increase, and he threatened to flog the whole company for the insult he said they had put upon him. The uproar from drinking, laugh- ing, threatening, and swearing, was now complete. Caldwell was forgotten for the moment by the sheriffs, but the noise of the tumult reached his anxious ear, the signal was understood, and he slipped out of the house and was off. Before Brig- ham and his company could be quieted and the uproar hushed, Caldwell was well on his way for Vermont. When all was accomplished at a pretty late hour in the night Mr. Brigham went out, took his horse from his hiding place, and went home, leaving the disappointed sheriflFs to get sober and make a Non est retnrn on their writs. 36 same month, was so badly frozen that he became a cripple for life. To give some instances of what were then con- sidered almost common hardships, a Mr. Reed purchased a common sized plow in Craftsbury, and traveling on snow shoes, cai'ried it on his back to his home in Westfield, a distance of about twenty miles; another man carried a heavy mill-saw from Danville to Lowell in the same way. The want of mills was a serious evil to which the early set- tlers were exposed. They had no mills among them for several years, and to get their grain ground they had to resort to Craftsbury, Derby, Richford, and other places. The mode of journeying to these mills was as various as the places to which they resorted. When they went to Richford they commonly used the canoe and paddled down the river, to go to the other places, they commonly used horses on excessively bad roads, and some even carried their grain on their backs to remote towns to be ground, so that they could supply themselves and families with breads ; whilst some hollowed out the stump of a tree or a log into a rude mortar, and by the aid of a huge pestle attached to a springing sapling pounded their gi-ain into meal. Besides these difficulties under which the first settlers labored in common with many other of the early settlers of Vermont, there were other disadvanges which seem to have been in some measure peculiar to themselves. None of our first settlers were possessed of much property. With perhaps one or two exceptions none had any thing more than enough to pay for the first purchase of their lands, and supply themselves with provisions for a year, and the necessary team and tools to commence a settlement. A few only possessed property to that extent, a majority had to purchase their lands on credit, and rely upon their own industry to pay for their lands and support themselves and families. The axe and the iirebrand 37 were the only aids wliich most of the first settlers had in reclaiming the forest and providing for the sustenance of them- selves and their families. The difficulties in making purchases, and procuring titles to land embarrassed the operations and impeded the progress of the first settlers. The lands of the valley were owned by non-residents, and the agents who had the care of the lands generally resided abroad. This led to a species of speculation called "making pitches," which enhanced the price of land and diverted the time and atten- tion of individuals from more regular and industrious pui"- suits, and It is remarkable that the abuse should have been tolerated at all. The mode of operation was this : An in- dividual would, to use the current plu-ase, " Pitch a lot" that is, he would select a lot and take possession of it by felling a few trees, and then apply to the distant agent for the lot. Even this ceremony of making any sort of communication with the ag-ent was not always observed. By thus making ■his " Pitch" the individual, by a sort of common law of the valley, or usage which was recognized among the settlers, acquired a pre-en^tion right to the lot, so that no person who really desired to purchase and settle on it could do so without first buying the "pitcher's" or squatter's claim. By this ridi- culous species of speculation a kind of monopoly was created, the best lots were occupied and prices were enhanced. One of the oldest settlers, Dea. Hovey, asserts that when he came into the valley, in 18®3, he found all the best lots, those he wished to purchase were ^' pitched," or covered by these sham claims. To encourage settlers, Mr. Hauxhurst had previously reduced the price of five lots in his gore to fifty cents per acre, these were "pitched" of course and Dea. Hovey says that he selected and purchased one of these lots for which he paid two hundred dollars of which sum fifty dollars only were 38 paid to Mr. Hauxhurst's agent and one hundred and fifty dol- lars were pocketed by the speculator or man who made the pitch. Another early settler states that the price of the lot he purchased was advanced one-third by this same ingenious devise. Another cause which tended to retard the prosperity and improvement of the valley was its proximity to the province of Canada. The interruption in the trade and business between the several communities bordering on the line, by the duties imposed by the two governments has been an inconvenience which they have felt at all times, and a strong temptation to resort to illicit and contraband traffic. And the protection which a foreign government affords tended to allure many fugitives from justice into the bordering towns in Canada, and many of them frequently lingered on this side of the line. The effect of the residence of these outlaws was pernicious, and particularly so to a new settlement which had hardly acquired the stamina of an organized community. The pres- ence and society of these wretches served to contaminate and poison the moral atmosphere, to introduce immoral habits and practices, and from their influence a feeling was created among the first settlers which long remained and led them to connive at crime and breaches of the law, and to harbor and protect some who had better have been expiating their crimes within the walls of the state prisons. Other sources of discontent and unhappiness existed, which, as they did not depend upon physical causes, could not be so easily removed. A venerable lady, one of the fii'st settlers of Westfield, says that dm-ing the fii'st year of her residence in that town her feelings of discontent and homesickness arising from the loneliness of her situation, and loss of the society of her early friends and relatives, was almost insupportable. 39 Others doubtless felt the same bereavement. Some missed the institutions of religion, and many parents felt the need of better and more convenient schools for their children than the rude settlement could then afford. But although the early settlers had to encounter many hardships, and were surrounded with many difficulties and discouragements, their situation was not without its comforts and enjoyments, and their lot was not all gloom, discontent, and suffering. They had many comforts, and even luxuries which are often denied to those in more affluent circumstances. Their lands were fertile, the seasons for many years were propitious, and theii' crops abundant. The forests afforded some deer and moose; the river and streams abounded with delicious trout, and a few hours spent in the enjoyment of their favorite pastime of hunting or fishing, would oftentimes furnish the settler with a meal which would excite the envy of our city epicures. The sugar maple was a rich blessing to the early settlers of Vermont. Those beautiful groves yielded an abundant supply of sugar, affording to the indigent settler a necessary and luxury of life which the wealthy in older countries could scarce afford, whilst the cheerful fii-es of this wood which in our infancy we saw blazing in the old stone-backed chimneys, call up recollec- tions of an enjoyment we cannot now find in the dull, invisible warmth of an air tight stove, and the ashes of this generous tree when manufactured into potash or pearlash, furnished an article for exportation, and almost the only one which would warrant the expense in transporting it to the then distant markets. One great solace the fiii'st settlers of this State enjoyed which it is doubtful if it ever has been or can be sufficiently appreci- ated, that is, the harmony, friendliness, and good will which almost universally prevailed. All were exposed to hardships, 40 all felt the need of each others assistance, and in the general mediocrity of fortune, feelings of envy or of proud superiority were rare. This feeling of friendliness and sociability univer- sally prevailed in the valley. Although this social feeling might in some instances explode in scenes of boisterous and drunken mirth, yet it often appeared in another form which indicated better manners and better morals. It was manifested in kind, unbought services at the sick bed, in relieving destitution and want, in a readiness to assist in a heavy job of work, at the raising and logging bee, and at the neighborly visit, when the ox sled was often put in requisition to transport the wife and children to the evening visit where the whole neighborhood were assembled. One of the earlier settlers — Judge Stebbins — and his wife, for some years after they moved into Westfield^ made it a rule to visit every family in their town at least once each year. Another of the early settlers of the same town, a lady, in speaking of the old times mentioned this feeling of harmony which prevailed among her old neighbors, and said that the first note of discord which was heard in the town originated in the political strifes and contests which preceded the declaration of war in 1812. Previous to that time all had been peace and concord. Notwithstanding the difficulties and discouragements which surrounded the infant settlement, the prospects of the valley were improving. From the fragment of an old tax bill dated February 28, 1807, it appears that the town of Troy in that year contained thirty tax payers. By the census of 1810, it appears that Troy then contained two hundred and eighty-one inhabitants, and Westfield one hundred and forty-nine. Not only were their numbers increasing, but the prosperity of the valley was otherwise advancing ; clearings and improvements were made, houses and other buildings were erected, and many 41 of the worst difficulties attending a new settlement were over- come. The deficiency of mills which seems so inconsistent with the existence of civilized life, was soon supplied. In 1 804 Mr. Josiah Elkins erected a mill in Troy. Deacon Hovey had a grist ground there in October of that year, the first grist that ever was ground in Troy. The next year Capt. Hitchcock built a mill in Westfield. The attention of the public had begun to be more and more directed to the valley, new settlers were arriving and forming new settlements, and the value and * extent of the farms and improvements were yearly increasing, when all these flattering appearances were crushed to the earth by the war of 1812. THE WAR OP EIGHTEEN HUNDRED TWELVE. The war of 1812 was peculiarly disastrous in its effects to the Northern part of Vermont and exhibits an instance of the ruinous effects of war on a country, even when it does not Buffer from the invasions of the enemy. Few sections of the state suffered more than this valley. Lying on the frontier and separated by mountains and forests from other parts of the state, the people supposed they would be the first victims of an attack. The settlers of Troy seem at first to have regarded the approach of war with their usual spirit and daring. Many spirited meetings were held at that time, and many patriotic resolutions were adopted. A fort also was, about this time, built in Troy, and another in Westfield. These forts, as they were called, were rude palisades, consisting of logs about a foot in diameter, and twelve or fifteen feet in height, placed perpendicularly, one end being inserted in a deep trench dug into the earth. The ruins of the Troy fort remained for twenty years, a monument of the courage and military j?kill of the early settlers. 6 42 But however resolute our people might have been when danger was only anticipated, yet when it was known that war was actually declared, the courage of many appears to have quailed under the supposed danger. The nursery tales of Indian havoc and warfare were rehearsed, the people seem to have been seized with a sort of panic, and supposed that hordes of Canadian Indians would be let loose upon them. The consequence was that a great part of the people abandoned their farms and homes, some only for a short time, but many never to return. Mrs. Elkins states that of the families which passed her house on one day, moving out of the settlement, she counted nineteen females who had been her neighbors. The eflfects of this removal were disastrous both to those who left and those who remained. Many of those who left made ruinous sacrifices of their property, abandoned farms where had expended years of hard labor, and where a few more years of like exertion would have rendered them independent and wealthy, to return again to poverty and begin the world anew. Nor were they the only sufferers ; those who remained experienced a loss in being deprived of the society and assistance of their neighbors and friends, and in a sparse settlement scarcely numerous enough to maintain the institu- tions of civilized life, this loss must have been severely felt. Several of the citizens enlisted into the army, and the time and attention of those who remained in the settlement were very much diverted from the regular business and employ- ments of life. The labors of the husbandman for a season were generally interrupted, few felt much confidence to till the earth when the prospect of remaining to the time of harvest was deemed so uncertain. All improvements in clear- ing farms and erecting buildings were of course discontinued. Speculation and smuggling soon followed, and diverted the 43 time and attention of the people from more profitable and honorable pursuits. In the winter of 1812-13, a small detachment of troops was stationed at North Troy. It is probable that the desire of quieting the fears of the people, and preventing smuggling and driving cattle into Canada, was the object of the government in stationing this body of troops in Troy rather than the apprehension of an invasion from that quarter. HARD TIMES. But the calamities of the valley did not end with the war. A succession of cold and unproductive seasons followed. The cold season of 1816 with its snow storm in June will long be remembered in Vermont. After the war, a general depression in business was experienced throughout the country. Almost secluded from the rest of the world by bad roads through forests and over mountains the evils ex- perienced from the failure of crops and the revulsion in trade were felt here in the greatest severity. The settlers were but poorly prepared to meet and overcome the diflBculties which surrounded them, arising from the failure of crops, and the change from the lavish expenditures of the war to the contraction and revulsion in business which followed its ter- mination, with numbers reduced by emigration, farms neg- lected, and habits of idleness, speculation, and dissipation engendered by the war, the cold seasons of 1815 and 1816 produced a scarcity and dearness of provisions, in some in- stances almost approaching to famine. Provisions were then scarce throughout the state, bad and almost impassable roads rendered it more difficult to procure here a supply from abroad, and the price of bread-stuffs rose to an unusual 44 height. Indian corn in the summer cf 1716 was sold from $3,00 to $3,50 per bushel. One of the early settlers gave six days work in haying in that season for two bushels of rye ; and in one instance in Lowell a family were for several days driven to the necessity of feeding on boiled leeks and clover heads to sustain life. At that time the inhabitants of the valley produced little or nothing for sale from the ordinary productions of husbandry, and their almost only resource to procure money for their pressing necessities, was by the slow and laborious process of making ashes, from which the laborer could hardly realize more than from twenty-five to thirty cents for his day's work. There were then but few mechanics and no stores or merchants in the valley. In 1 8 1 8, Jerre Hodgkins, Esq., commenced trade with a store of goods in Westfield. At that time there was no store nearer than Craftsbury, except one with a small stock of goods in Potton, and the people were compelled to dispense almost entirely with those articles deemed necessary for their dress or tables, or to purchase a few scanty articles at ruinous prices enhanced by expensive freight and extravagant profits. The decline of the settlement is indicated by the census. In 1810 the town of Troy contained two hundred and eighty-four inhab- itants ; in 1820 their numbers were diminished to two hundred and twenty-seven, and had the census been taken in 1817 or 1818, their numbers would doubtless have been much less. From the accounts which have been transmitted to us of these times, we have reason to believe that the moral and social condition of the people of the valley was but little in advance of their physical condition. Their means of moral and mental improvement were very limited. Almost cut ofif from the world by mountains and bad roads, they had few books or newspa- pers, few schools, and those with difficulty supported by the 45 sparse population, with little intercourse with society calculated to benefit or improve, and few religious meetings and those irregularly maintained, it appears that a low state of morals existed, that intemperance and other profligate habits prevailedj and were it not for the renovating influence of Christianity, and the progressive spirit of the age, the settlement must have relapsed into barbarism. But there appears to be a point both of depression and of prosperity in the fortunes of communities as well as of indi- viduals, to which they seem destined to go, and beyond which they cannot pass ^ and having reached this point the current of events begins to flow in an opposite direction. The people of the Missisco valley reached this point of depression about the year 1817, and from that period the condition and circumstan- ces of the people, with many interruptions and untoward events, seem on the whole to have been gradually improving. Many causes doubtless contributed to this beneficial change. It could not be expected that a region possessing so many nat- ural advantages could long remain waste and unimproved in New England, Some valuable settlers came in soon after, and the necessities of life would naturally tend to revive industry and introduce some order and improvement into the depressed and discordant state of things which then existed. But among the many causes of improvement perhaps none was more effica- cious even for the temporal prosperity of the people, than the great religious revival which occurred in the valley in 1818. REFORMATION OP EIGHTEEN HUNDRED EIGHTEEN. The history of no community, whether great or small, can be complete without some relation of its moral and religious character. Some account of the religious and ecclesiastical 46 history of the valley seems to be requii-ed. The moral char- acter of the people has already been referred to. No religious teacher at this time had ever been permanently settled there^ nor had any church or ecclesiastical society ever been organ- ized in the valley, and but few of the settlers had ever made any public profession of religious faith. The settlement had been occasionally visited by a few devoted missionaries, partic- ularly by the Rev. James Parker, who had occasionally labored there for a short time. A small society of Methodists was in Potton, the Rev. Mr. Bowen was located there, and had occa- sionally preached in Troy. Public worship on the sabbath had been but irregularly maintained, and in many districts, for long periods of time, could hardly have been said to exist. The consequences of this deficiency of religious instruction were felt on the moral character, and finally on the temporal prosperity of the people. A low state of moral feeling pre- vailed, and many instances of irregular conduct were connived at which should not have been tolerated by any civilized or well regulated community. The reformation which followed can scarcely be accounted for on any cause or principle which the world would call philo- sophical. Early in the winter of 1817 and 1818, an unusual solemnity seems to have rested on the minds of many of the people, an indefinite feeling of man's accountability, that all was not well with them, that a state of retribution hereafter was to follow the trials and temptations of this probationary scene. But no particular cause for this state of feeling can be assigned ; no particular affliction, sickness, or death, or what is called common casualty, had occurred. It is said that Asher Chamberlin, Esq., who previous to his removal to Troy, had made a profession of religion and united with the church in Peacham, had attempted, in the 47 fall of 1817, to maintain some religious meetings in his house, by reading a sermon and other exercises on the Sabbath, and by conference and prayer meetings at other times. At the close of one of these meetings he proposed to the audience that there should be an expression of their wishes whether these meetings should be continued or not, and unexpectedly to all there was an unanimous expression of the desire of the assembly that the meetings should be continued. They were therefore continued with as much or increasing interest. About this time an inhabitant of Troy, on a journey to New Hampshire, found at Hardwick the Rev. Levi Parsons, (a missionary employed by the Vermont Missionary Society, and who afterwards finished his labors in Palestine,) who was then preaching in that place, and invited him to visit Troy. He accepted the invitation, and arrived at Troy about the beginning of the year 1818. The first discourses of Mr. Parsons excited a deep interest on the already moved minds of the people of the valley. But the story of his labors and of the reformation which followed, can best be told in his own words which are extracted from his sermons published soon after his decease : — " In Troy and the adjoining towns I spent eleven weeks. The revival commenced upon the first of January and con- tinues still with great power. Three churches have been organized ; two of the Congregational and one of the Baptist denomination. Troy contains thirty-five families. Previous to the revival only one individual was known as a professor of religion, and only one family in which were offered morn- ing and evening sacrifices. From information, I have been led to believe that, in scarce any place did the sins of Sab- bath breaking, swearing and Intoxication prevail to a more alarming excess. Especially for a few months previous to 48 this every thing seemed to be repining for the judgment of Heaven. But He who is rich in mercy looked down in com- passion. * * * * At my first meeting I perceived an unusual attention. Every ear was opened to receive instruction, and many expressed by their countenances and actions the keen distress of a wounded conscience. The ensuing week convictions and conversions were multiplied. At some of the religious conferences more than twenty re- quested the prayers of their Christian friends. On Thursday the fifth of February, assisted the Rev. Mr. Leland of Derby, in organizing a church consisting of twelve members, all of whom gave evidence of renewing grace. At the close of the exercises the sacrament of the Lord's supper was administered for the first time in Troy. The season will ever be remembered with peculiar gratitude. * » ^ * In vain was the virulence of the moralist, or the sneers of the infidel. Nothing was able to oppose, with success, the in- fluences of the spirit. No heart was too hard to be melted } no will too stubborn to be bowed ; no sinner too abandoned to be reclaimed. The Sabbath breaker, the swearer, the drunkard, were humbled at the footstool of mercy. Every house for a distance of more than twenty miles was open for instruction. The church was soon enlarged to forty-five members, and many more were the evident subjects of grace. The neighboring towns were blessed with the same outpour- ings of the Holy Ghost. In Westfield I assisted in the organization of a church of ten members. Considerable ad- ditions have since been made and many are now inquiring ' What shall we do to be saved ?' There have been a few instances of hopeful conversion in Potton and Sutton in the province of Canada. * * * * All ages and classes have shared in the work. Among the number who 49 have united with the church is the youth of fourteen, and the aged sinner of three score and ten." The statements of living witnesses confirm all there is re- corded by Mr. Parsons in his journal, respecting the state of society in the valley previous to the reformation occasioned by his labors there. The impression made by the preaching of Mr. Parsons is repi esented by all to have been profound, and a general spirit of inquiry upon the subject of religion seems to have been awakened. It does not appear that Mr. Parsons, although a man of respectab e abilities and learning, was possessed of any remarkable powers of oratory, but a deep feeling of love, sincerity, and earnestness, seemed to pervade his discourses, which appeared to come from the heart and to reach and melt the hearts of his hearers. It is not pretended that all sin and unbelief were banished from the valley by this reformation. Some were but slightly affected or were wholly unmoved, and some who then ap- peared to reform, and even covenanted to break off from their sins, returned to their evil habits, and in their after lives offered feeble evidence that their repentance was " unto life." Yet it is adrritted by all that a favorable change was wrought in the morals and habits of the people, and that with very many individuals there was not only a renunciation of Hi aven-daring sins, but a change in habits and conduct which told on the temporal prosperity and peace of families, and the community. Most of our religious societies date their origin from that period. A Congregational church was or- ganized in Troy and another in Westfield in 1818. A Bap- tist church was formed in those two towns in the same year. A Christian church was formed in Westfield in 1819. A little event occurred at Troy in August of 1819, which well illuBtratee the incidents of a settler's life, and shows the 7 50 resolution and presence of mind of the wife of one of the early settlers. At this time Mr. Jonah Titus resided on the farm now owned by Capt. Kennedy, about a mile east of Troy village. This farm which is now on one of the main roads through ^he county, and is surrounded by a large and flourishing settlement, at that time presented a very different appearance. A few acres only were partially cleared, the only buildings were a small log house, and a hovel used as a substitute for a barn. These were surrounded by a dense forest. No road led directly to Troy village ; the only means of communication with the other settlements was by a path or sled road to the bridge at Phelps' Falls. No neigh- bor lived on that side of the river, except one, and he lived at the distance of more than half a mile. At this time Mr. Titus was laboring for Mr. Oliver Cham- berlain on the farm which is now the present site of Troy village, at the distance of two miles, as the road then was, leaving his wife with three small children in this secluded home. Early one morning Mrs. Titus was aroused by a loud squeal of the hog which was roaming in a raspberry patch near the house. Going to the door she saw the hog wounded and bleeding, running towards the house, pursued by a large she bear attended by two cubs. Mrs. Titus promptly inter- fered, and with the help of a small dog arrested the pursuit of the bear. The hog fled to the hovel, and the two cubs alarmed by the barking of the dog ran up a tree near the house. Mrs. Titus then took a tin horn and began sounding it in the hope ot arresting the attention of her distant neigh- bors. By her resolute bearing, the noise of the horn, and the barking of the dog, she kept the cubs up the tree and pre- vented the old bear from making an attack on herself Deter- mined if possible to bring these unwelcome invaders to their 61 deserts she resolutely maintained her post. The uncommon noise of the horn at length attracted the attention of her hus- band and distant neighbors, who suspecting trouble hastened to her relief with guns and other means of defence. A shot from one of the guns brought down the old bear, the cubs also were soon slaughtered, and Mrs. Titus had the pleasure of seeing these unwelcome assailants atone with their lives for their invasion of her premises, and their skins were the tro- phies of her courage and presence of mind. PROGRESS OP THE VALLEY. During the ten years following, the fortunes of the Missisco valley were advancing, and society seems to have been impro- ving. Farms were improved, new lots were purchased and settled, and the census taken in 1830 shows that the popula- tion of Troy had almost trebled in ten years, increasing from two hundred and twenty-seven in 1820, to six hundred and eight in 1830. In the same period Westfield had advanced jfrom two hundred and twenty-five to three hundred and fifty- three ; Jay from fifty-two to one hundred and ninety-six. Some new branches of mechanical business had been com- menced, and the people had made a considerable advance in the comforts and conveniences of life. Yet they were far from being a wealthy community, or their situation a desirable one for an intelligent and prosperous people. Few of the farmers produced more than was needed for the use of their own families, and for the supply of the mechanics and laborers in the immediate vicinity. None of the great staple articles were then extensively cultivated ; and only one farmer in the valley had any surplus produce to send to a distant market. Money was loaned at a rate of interest from twelve to twenty- 52 five per cent. The laborious process of making ashes and selling them to the merchants, or to some owner of an estab- lishment for manufacturing pearlashes, was almost the sole resource of many to obtain small sums of money, or to pur- chase those necessaries of life which were procured from abroad. Two merchants traded at that time in the valley. The lar- gest establishment was kept at the place now known as Troy village. The stock of goods commonly consisted of a hogs- head of whiskey and another of molasses, and a barrel or two of rum or other spirits. The assortment of cloths a stout man might carry on his shoulders, and the crockery and hard- ware might be packed in a handcart or wheelbarrow. At North Troy another store was kept on a rather smaller scale. The roads into the valley were ill wrought and in the worst locations, and over almost impassable mountains. The most traveled route was the old Hazen road crossing the two chains of Lowell mountains from Craftsbury to Montgomery, a route which has of later years been pretty much deserted by man and surrendered to the beasts of the forest. A mail from Craftsbury to St. Albans passed and returned on this road once a week, and a branch or local mail jfrom Troy connected with this route in Lowell. No house for public worship had been erected in the valley until the year 1829, when by the liberality of Dea. Page and a few individuals in Westfield, a meeting house was erected in that town. No clergyman had settled and ofl&ciated in that capacity in the valley for any number of years, and in the year 1828 one solitary physician was the only professional man who had permanently settled in these towns. About this time several changes for the better occurred. In 1828 the Burlington and Derby road, as it was called, wae 53 surveyed and partially made, entering the valley on the South, through a natural ravine, from Eden, and passing through the towns of Lowell and Westfield to Troy village, thence turning East through Troy and Newport to the " narrows" of the Lake. By this route a remarka,bly easy and level road was made into the valley from the South, and a much more feasible and level route to the East than had ever before been enjoyed. The valley no longer remained in the inaccessible and isolated state it had previously been in. A large share of the travel and business from Burlington and Lake Champlain to this county passed over this road. Intersecting the principal roads, and crossing the valley at Troy village, business and travel was concentrated there. Another merchant established him- self there in 1829, several mechanics settled there, and Troy, J. J THOMAS WELLS, > Selectmen of Troy. JOSIAH LYON, At a town meeting legally warned and holden at the dwelling-house of John Bell in Troy, on the fourth day of May, A. D. 1812— Voted, Jon'a Simpson, Esq., moderator. Voted, that the town take means to equip the militia. Voted, that the Selectmen of this town be instructed to borrow twenty musket* and bayonets on the credit of the town for such times as they shall think nec- essary. Voted, that the town purchase twenty-five pounds of powder and one hundred weight of lead if it can be purchased on six months credit. Voted, that there be appointed a conunittee to enquire if there be any danger of invasion, and give information. Voted, that Ezekiel Currier, Cha's Conant, Jon'a Simpson, Esq., David Hazel- tine, and Fyam Keith be the aforesaid committee. Voted, that the meeting be dissolved. DAVm HAZELTINE, Town Clerk." LBAg14 -)i-^