COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT A School Garden Exhibit. HOW TO MAKE HOME AND CITY BEAUTIFUL PREPARED TO HELP THOSE INTERESTED IN MAKING ATTRACTIVE HOMES AND BEAUTIFUL CITIES BY H. D. HEMENWAY NORTHAMPTON, MASSACHUSETTS Copyright 1911. By H. D. Hemenway. ©CI.A289134 PREFACE. This little book is written with a view of furnishing inspiration and help to those who want to make their homes attractive and the city a cleaner, healthier, better and prettier place in which to live. The author endeavors to keep the book in clear, simple, and concise language. The first ten chapters are from plates of “Hints and Helps For Young Gardeners.” These chapters refer largely to elementary agriculture and work in the vegetable garden. The remaining chapters treat more directly upon beautify¬ ing the home grounds and the care of the surroundings of the home. Credit is here given for the use of cuts by the Syracuse Chilled Plow Co., and by the Massachusetts State Board of Agriculture. H. D. Hemenway, Northampton , [Massachusetts , igii. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. Introduction. CHAPTER II. How to Plan thk Garden. Selection of Garden Plot—Enriching it—Selecting the Crops to Grow —Selecting the Tools. CHAPTER III. Soil, Tieeage. Objects of Tillage—Implements used in Tillage—the Spade—the Plow—the Harrow—Cultivators—Roller—Planker—How to Spade— How to Rake—How to Hoe. CHAPTER IV. How to Test Seeds. Seed Testing Blank—Germination—How to Make a Germiuator. CHAPTER V. How TO PgANT. Preparing the Land—Directions for Planting Beans—Bush—Lima and Pole— Beets—Brussels Sprouts—Broccoli—Cabbage—Carrots—Cauli¬ flower—Celery—Sweet Corn—Corn Salad—Cress — Cucumber — Dan¬ delion—Egg Plant—Endive — Kale—Kohl Rabi—Lettuce — Leek— Mustard—Melons—Okra—Onions—Parsley—Mixing Soil and Potting —Parsnip—Peppers—Peas—Potatoes—Pumpkins—Radish—Salsify— Spinach —Squash—Tomatoes—Turnip—Vegetable—Planting Table— Flower Planting Table. CHAPTER VI. ’ How to Dig and Set Trees. How to dig the Tree—How to set it—Planting Board. CHAPTER VII. How to Make a Hotbed and Care for the Same. How to Make the Bed—How to Care for it—Cotton Shutters. CHAPTER VIII. Strawberry Cueture. Preparing the Laud—Setting in Garden, in field—Winter Covering— The Barrel Method. CHAPTER IX. Asparagus Cueture. Planting the Seed—Preparing the Ground—Setting the Roots for Garden Culture, for Field Culture—Cutting. CHAPTER X. Window Gardening. The best Plants for it—Mixing the Soil for Common Plants, for Palms and Roses, for Cacti—Selecting and arranging the Plants in Boxes—List of Suitable Plants—Pottin« and Re-potting—Propagation —Bulbs—Care of Plants. CHAPTER XI. How to Beautify the Home Grounds. Simple Landscape Rules—Grading—Fertilizing—How to make the Layout or Plan—Harmony—Condition. CHAPTER XII. What to Plant. Tall Plants for Shade and Sun-Medium Plants for Shade and Sun—Low Plants for Shade and Sun—Hardy Herbaceous Plants. CHAPTER XIII. Care of Trees and Shrubs. Propagation—Cuttings— Layering-Grafting—Grafting Cloth—Root Grafting—Whip-Tongue and Saddle Grafting—Cleft Grafting— Pruning Trees, Shrubs, Roses, Grape Vines, Blackberries—Care. CHAPTER XIV. Plant Enemies and their Remedies. Plant Diseases—Insect Pests—Spraying—For Sucking Insects— For Chewing Insects—Scale Insects—for Plant Diseases—Potato Scab. CHAPTER XV. A Flower Garden Competition. How Started—How Conducted—Rules—Enrollment—Inspection —Prize Award. CHAPTER XVI. How to Form a City Beautiful League. Need—Purpose—Public Meeting—Co-operation of Organizations —Constitution and By-Laws—Value of League. CHAPTER I . INTRODUCTION. IN America, garden work and elementary agriculture as a means of education has been successfully demonstrated for nearly a score of years. Many of its enthusiastic advo¬ cates believe it has already past its experimental stage, and should be included in the curriculum of every well- organized school. On the other hand, there are conservative educators, who still look upon it as a fad. Many others, probably the larger number, believe in it, but for the lack of effi¬ cient teachers, and equipment, hesitate to advocate intro¬ ducing the School Garden. Several institutions in the country have already begun to train teachers and the School Garden movement is making rapid progress. The time is not far distant, when practical, elementary agriculture, and gardening will be taught in many schools. It develops the children physi¬ cally as well as mentally and in the open air often creating a love for things, which keep the city boy off the street corners during the summer, and teaches the country child the business-like, up-to-date methods in agriculture and gardening. It not only educates tne nead, the heart, and the hand, but it aids in the practical application of reading, writing and arithmetic. Gardening increases and develops the power of observation. It makes a person quick to grasp ideas and to put these ideas into action. These are im¬ portant foundations for success in any line of business. It develops moral character. Few things, if any, develop a love of industry better than the well-kept garden. Ever changing nature lures us on to help some pet plant to grow until we love the work. An unsightly yard. The same yard three months later. What was once unsightly, unsanitary and unproductive, becomes a resort of beauty, of health and of utility for a whole family. Photos by Edward Mahoney. FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 9 Establishing a School Garden may change the entire healthfulness of a neighborhood. The school grounds, themselves may be better planned and more healthful, but the best effect may be at the homes. The School Gardener soon wants a garden at home. No matter how small the 3 r ard, there is room for a garden for the boy or girl, even if it has to he established in a soap-box. There is much waste room often used for ashes, tin cans, or rubbish in many 3 r ards. What was once unsightly, unsanitary, and unpro¬ ductive, becomes a resort of beauty, of health and utilitv r for a whole family. It opens up a source of revenue, creates a love of industry, and respect for property, and is often the beginning of better things. The gardener be¬ comes a better American citizen. Learning habits of close observation. CHAPTER II. HOW TO PLAN THE GARDEN. T HE first thing in planning a garden is to decide upon the location. If there is sufficient land so a choice •can be made always select the best land with the most sunny exposure. If it has a southern slope it will be still earlier and warmer. Enrich it with rotted stable manure at the rate of ten •cords or more to the acre. In the absence of stable manure* use a liberal sprinkling of wood ashes, and bone •dust and apply a little nitrate of soda to the crops occa¬ sionally, especially to the leaf crops. If there is a board fence place the tall growing crops next to it, otherwise place them on the north side. Do not try , at first, to grow rare or uncommon things. Cover the fences with flowering vines, as nasturtiums, morning glories, cobaeas, Japanese hop, etc. Any un¬ sightly places may be covered with the above named vines or with wild cucumber, gourds, squash or pumpkins. Low flowers show best when planted along the path. Taller ones may be planted back of them. Give every¬ thing plenty of room. Rows of corn or potatoes should not be closer than two and one-half feet in the garden, or three or three and one- lialf feet in the field. Tomatoes should be three to four ieet apart, and hills of squashes and cucumbers should never be closer than five feet apart, although other early ■crops may be planted within four feet of them. A crop of lettuce, radishes, spinach or onions, may be obtained from the spaces between the crops that are planted more than two feet apart. Different kinds of corn should not be planted in the same garden. Different varieties of *The street department will generally furnish plenty of street sweepings for the School Garden. IO FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 11 r“- CVbw vFL / A 0\ cliL. - cL J'/C/f. Qli.a-tvi/ Jr.aniJ ff, IfsdJlt/vO- 1 . 'vrfXtf-CUYlAJ ^ Ola *a>Av/ „ (’bn.d.ccL.J JuuTXkAA. Jt- X 'So-y^^oSto (^|cu4a x 4 ^CL-ci^k) >/. G l (3.e aTjaj c f «'Ma, /XXo Vi -0 . . v r i ^ .v r w + | 1 * //it n a AS . , Garden 10x30 ft. A good plan for the whole season. From report of Director of Hart¬ ford School of Horticulture. s£J. ’SiaZ+L Garden 4x5 ft. Plan for small garden that will ripen all its pro¬ ducts before the first of July. the same kind may, however. It is well to plant an early and a later variety of sweet corn. Plan for a good vari¬ ety of vegetables but do not try to grow things from which you are not reasonably sure of get¬ ting a crop. Begin early to plan the garden. Draw the plans on paper and study them. Make the changes, if there are any, then, when the time comes, you have a definite plan to work upon and no time is lost. In mak¬ ing the plans for a School Gardenavoid using the front lawn, at least the center of it, and avoid en¬ croaching upon a needed play-ground. Do not forget the aesthetic side but have something be¬ sides that. Let the garden teach, as well as industry and gar- dening^conomy and productiveness- In selecting tools, it is important to buy good ones . Avoid toys, and those that are cheap and worth¬ less. The best workman cannot do good work with inferior tools, much less can the inexperienced. While good tools The Needed Tools. a. Rake. c. Hand Weeder. b. I.ine. d. Sunnyside Hoe. Cut loaned bj r Doubleday, Page & Co., N Y. 12 HINTS AND HELPS cost more at first, they are cheaper in the end. With good tools, the beginner should begin to handle them correctly. One of the modern harrows. Plan of the Gardens, Observation Plots, and Grounds at the School of Horticulture, Hartford, Conn. CHAPTER III. SOIL TILLAGE. T ILLAGE is the working or stirring of the land in order to improve it for agricultural purposes. The term cultivation is sometimes used but tillage is a techni¬ cal term and is to be preferred. The fundamental practice in farming is tilling the land. The modern ideas of tillage dates from 1733, when Jethro Tull published a book on Horse-Hoeing Husbandry. While his theory was not correct as to the manner that plants take food, he was the first in England to advocate tilling the soil. His idea was that particles were made so fine that the small roots could take them in as food. It was only in the latter part of the century just closed that the real reasons for tillage became popularly understood in this country. THE OBJECTS OF TILLAGE. Tillage improves the land in many ways. It pul¬ verizes the soil, allowing air to enter and make available the plant food. It gives the roots a wider pasture. It saves moisture. It is practiced to prevent the growth of weeds and other vegetation not desired upon the ground. To place beneath the surface, manure, stubble and other organic matter where it will not be in the way, and where it may be converted rapidly into humus. Tillage will develop various degrees of openness of texture and uni¬ formity of soil and conditions suitable to the planting of seeds and the setting of plants. The first requirements in the growing of plants is pro¬ per and thorough tillage. It is more important than the ap¬ plication of fertilizers. By thorough and careful tillage good crops can be raised on semi-arid regions of the west which have a rainfall of only a little more than one-third our average rainfall. 13 f HINTS AND HKD PS H IMPLEMENTS USED IN SOIL TILLAGE. The spade and the plow are the first implements to be used in tillage. The Spade, is made for entering the soil, prying it off and turning it over. Its size and shape have been fixed by experiment. Many sizes are made according to the work for which they are to be used. It is heavier and stronger, then the shovel, which is made for shoveling soft earth. Where the soil is not too hard, the spading fork will spade the soil easier and quicker. The Plow, less than ninety years ago the wooden plow was the only one in use. In 1823, an inventor in Hartford, Connecticut, made the first cast plow bottom ever made. Nearly all plows before this were crooked sticks with a little metal protection. Joel Nourse, in 1825, with an ox team took three hun¬ dred cast iron plows from Hartford to Worcester, Mass. He became the head of the Ames Plow Co., of Worcester,, Massachusetts. Frost Horton, a New York statesman, about the same time began developing plows. These two men kept ex¬ perimenting until they had each perfected nearly five hun¬ dred different kinds of plows. The object of plowing is to alter the texture, forming from a comparatively hard soil a mellow layer of earth,, and to bury beneath the surface, weeds and other vegeta¬ tion and manure that it may rapidly decay. Plows vary in shape according to the purpose for which they are to be used. The Subsoil Plow is one made to follow in the furrow of the other plow. It has a long point which goes twelve or fifteen inches into the ground breaking up the subsoil It does not turn up the. lower soil but breaks it up. The Harrow, is the implement to follow the plow,, i. e. to be used after the plowing is done. All kinds ex¬ cept the old spike-tooth, are of recent origin. They pul¬ verize the soil and should always be used after plowing. The kind of harrow to be used depends upon the work to- FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 15 be done. On sod or heavy land a disc, wheel or spading harrow should be used to be followed with a smoothing harrow. The harrow is the best thing to kill small weeds. Some kinds can be used after the crops are planted and until they are three or four inches high. It should gener¬ ally follow the roller to break the capillary attraction and save moisture. Hand and Horse Cuetivators, act as harrows. After the crops are three or four inches high, the cultiva¬ tors should be used. These are made in many styles to cultivate the crops between the rows. As with plows, we have both walking and sulky cultivators. The latter kind are best in the west and on large farms. The teeth should not be too large, and the cultivator, for the best results should not go deeper than three inches in summer. This keeps a soil mulch over the surface at all times, sav¬ ing the moisture, and allows the crop to send the roots through the middle of the rows without the danger of being broken off as would be the case with deeper tillage. Cultivation at first may be deep, but later should be shallow. The Planner, is used where a smooth surface is wanted. It breaks up the lumps and leaves the surface smooth without firming it much. The Roller, to do good work should not be smaller than two feet in diameter, and should have a weight of one hundred pounds to the foot in length. It should be used when seed is sown broadcast for the same reason that we press the soil over seed planted in the garden. It is also useful where a green crop has been turned under, to re¬ store capillary attraction with the soil below. It should generally be followed with a light harrow, to prevent the surface baking and loss of water. These are the commonest tools used in tillage aside from the hoe, rake, line and weeder used in every garden. Most of the tools are used to loosen the soil and to remove weeds. In the small garden the hoe or rake, should be used i \ at least once a week to make a soil mulch between the i6 HINTS AND HELPS rows. The soil mulch consists of a soft loose condition of the top soil. It should be two to three inches deep. The weeder is used about the plants and between them, where there is not room for the hoe. All weeds near the plants should be pulled. A weed is a plant that persists in growing where it is not wanted. It is a robber. It robs the rightful plants of moisture and food and will even kill them. Weeds are best killed, when first germinated. Never allow them to grow. how to spadk. The Spade, is a tool made to pry with, to dig up the land. It differs from the shovel as it is made of heavier material, both the blade and handle. A shovel is used principally for digging loose material and is not supposed to be used for prying. The blade of the spade is made narrower than the shovel blade, so that it w r ill enter the ground more easily. The blade is also flatter and not as “dishing” as the shovel for the same reason. It is not made for shoveling or digging loose soil but for digging hard ground. Where the ground is not too hard the spad¬ ing fork is superior to the spade as it is lighter and the ground can be spaded faster. In spading , begin in one corner of the plot with the back to the plot. Grasp the top of the handle with the right hand, press the blade of the spade or fork vertically down to its full extent with the foot working the handle a little if necessary where the ground is excessively hard or stony. Then carry the top of the handle backward and downward near the ground, at the same time carry the left hand down the handle and w 7 hen at a point about one foot from the blade, lift up the spade and soil; turn it over, throwing it slightly forward to leave a furrow. Keep the back as straight as possible and do the lifting with the legs. Continue working along the end of the plot to be spaded. When across the end, spade back again, taking a slice from five to ten inches wide. When the spade-full of soil is turned over, it should be given a little throw and hit with the spade or fork to break it up. If the spading is done FOR YOUNG GARDENED. I 7 well, it will leave the soil finer than the plow does. In fact it does the plowing and part of the harrowing. lo Rake the land, begin at one corner and rake to¬ wards the center. The rake should be used to level the land and break up the lumps rather than to rake them off. All coarse lumps that do not break up should be buried. Only the stone and very coarse matter should be raked off. W hen raking, lift the rake slightly when drawing it towards you. As in spading, rake one end first, stand on the spaded land and rake towards you. When smooth and fine, the footprints should be raked out as you pass off the plot. Spading and raking as well as plowing and harrowing are the first principals of tillage. In using The Hoe, grasp the handle near the upper end in the right hand, with the back of the hand up. Grasp it with the left hand a foot or more lower down with the back of the hand to the left and the thumb extended along the handle. Avoid a cramped position. Bend the bod)- slightly forward on the hips keeping the back straight. Never lift the hoe higher than the knee. Left- handed persons, and some that are not, will find it easier to have the left hand at the top. In this case the back of the right hand should be to the right and the thumb along the handle. These are correct positions for hoeing. Bet¬ ter work can be done and done eas¬ ier if one of these positions is always used. If the regu¬ lar 4 feet io inch hoe handle is used, the child should grasp the handle from 12 to 18 inches from the end. The Rake is held similar to the hoe iS HINTS AND HELPS but the handle is allowed to slide through the hands more. When not in use all tools should he cleaned and hung up. Have a place for everything and keep everything cleaned and in its place, it will pay. Modern Plows CHAPTER IV. HOW TO TEST SEEDS. /*"^\\\ ING to the great importance of having good seed to plant, it is wise to test the seed before planting, to determine the percentage of live seeds. Eighty-five to ninety five per cent, of seeds that will start is a good aver¬ age for No. i seed. Take an average sample, count out ioo seeds and place them in a seed germinator. In the absence of a germinator a simple one can be made as fol¬ lows. take an old uncracked kitchen plate, cut two pieces of thick cloth or blotting paper, the size of the inner part of the plate, wet thoroughly and drain them. Put one piece of cloth on the plate, and scatter the seeds evenly ^ if) cover them with the second cloth. Put a piece of glass or another plate over it, to prevent evaporation and >ot in a warm place. Examine frequently. If ioo seeds are used, the number of seeds that sprout will be the per¬ centage of viable seeds. These sprouted seeds make fine specimens for germination studies. It is well to test all seeds. 1 he following is a good form for a seed testing blank: Name of Seed, No. of Seeds in Germinator,.When put in (Date) Date. No. of Seeds Sprouted. No. of Seeds not .Sprouted. Per cent, of Seed S nrouted. Source of Seed,. Total percent, of seed sprouted, Remarks Tested b}-. *9 20 HINTS AND HELPS The seeds that are last to germinate in the germina- tors often fail entirely in the soil. Germination is the sprouting of the seed. It is not complete until the young plantlet is established in the soil. Monocotyledonous plants, those with one seed leaf, push their heads straight up. That is why they are so small. The little plant exists in the seed. The tiny leaves and stems are present, but the roots are lacking. Most seeds contain plenty of plant food to get the young plants well started in life. r Germinating seeds in a seed tester. CHAPTER V . HOW TO PUNT. A GARDEN should not be planted until the soil is thor¬ oughly prepared. It is better to plant a few days late than to put the seed or plants into poorly prepared soil. A sandy loam can be planted a week earlier than a medium or heavy loam. A southern slope of 45 0 to 6o°, increases the earliness of the soil a week over the same kind of soil on level ground. Thus radishes, which should be planted about May 1st, in medium or heavy loam in the latitude of Hartford, could safely be planted on April 16th on sandy loam slop¬ ing to the south. Large seeds germinate quicker if they are soaked for a few hours in warm water at temperature not exceeding 120° F. They should not be soaked longer than twelve hours and the soaking of the seed should im¬ mediately precede the planting. With the land thorough¬ ly prepared, the plans decided upon, planting should be¬ gin as soon as the temperature is suitable. planting directions. Beans, Bush. Dwarf Horticultural Shell Beans, Cranberry Beans, Wax String Beans, and Giant Pod Valentine String Beans. These are among the best. These grow from 12 to 30 inches high and have pods which enclose the seeds. In the Shell Bean varieties the seeds or beans are taken out of the pods and boiled and eaten alone, or with corn as succotash. The Horticultural beans are picked when the pods are striped with red. The pods of the string beans are eaten and should be picked before they become tough. A good way to tell when they are ready is to bend them in the shape of the letter U, they should snap. Plant all Bush varieties in rows not closer than two feet apart. Dig a furrow three inches deep and sprinkle 21 22 HINTS AND HELPS a pint of wood aslies or one-half pint of sulphate of potash or bone dust, into the furrow to every ten feet. Mix this into the soil with a weeder or with a point of the hoe. When this is done the furrow will be about one inch deep. Place the beans three or four inches apart in the furrow, one bean in a place, cover with the fine soil, and press down with the back of the hoe. It will take them between one and two weeks to come up. The two halves of the bean furnishes food for the young plant, they are first to come above the soil. The soil should be kept well-tilled at all times, but avoid handling the vines on wet days. The beans will be ready to eat in from six to nine weeks after planting. Any of the Bush beans can be planted from May ioth to July ist. Beans, Bush Lima. Bush Lima Beans are planted the same as the other varieties of dwarf beans, except, each bean is put four to six inches apart in furrow. The pods should be picked when the beans in them are about the size of a twenty-five cent piece. They are generally considered much nicer than the ordinary shell bean. Bush Lima Beans continue to blossom and bear pods until frost comes. They should be planted about May ioth. If planted before the soil is warm, they will never germinate. It will take them three to six days longer than the other beans to come up. Beans, Pole. The furrows for Pole Beans are made not closer than three feet apart. The pole should be firmly set, belore the beans are planted and then four or five beans planted in circle around it. These should be covered about one inch, leaving the land level after the beans are planted. One pint of wood ashes, or one-half pint of sul¬ phate of potash or ground bone, should be worked into the hills at the rate of about one pint of wood ashes to every ten feet of row. Pole beans of any kind generally yield more than the Bush beans. If the first that ma¬ ture are picked, they will continue to bear. They should be planted at the same time as Bush beans, but it will take them one or two weeks longer, before they are ready to eat. FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 23 Beets. Crosby’s Egyptian, or any table variety. Beets can be planted in rows one foot apart. If the ground is not rich, hoe a half-pint of market-garden fertilizer or a mixture of nitrate of soda, and super-phosphate into the soil in which they are to be planted, to every ten feet of row. Make a furrow one inch deep and drop the seed, one to two inches apart, cover with fine soil, and press down. They will be up in about six days and when they are four inches high they should be thinned to about three inches apart, using those that are pulled out to transplant or for greens. When they are transplanted, be sure to make boles deep enough, so that the end of the roots do not turn up, and twist off all the leaves except the center ones. Always keep the soil in a perfect state of tillage. Beets are cul¬ tivated for their roots, which are best when one to two inches in diameter. They can be planted from about April 30th, to July 10th. They are ready to eat in from eight to twelve weeks after planting. Brussels Sprouts. These should be planted in rows two feet apart. They do best on new land. Make a furrow one inch deep and drop three or four seeds every 18 inches. Cover with fine soil and press down. They will come up in about six days. Brussels Sprouts are cul¬ tivated for the buds which are in the axils of the leaves. They are milder than the cabbage and are boiled and served with a cream sauce. They are ready to eat in about twenty-one weeks after planting and are best after they have been touched by the frost. They, like all the cab¬ bage family, do not do well in hot weather. They make their final growth in the cool months in autumn. Before the ground freezes they can be pulled up and packed up¬ right with their roots in moist sand, and in this condition can be kept in a cool cellar or pit nearly all winter. Broccoli. Should be planted about May 20th. The seed is covered one inch and the rows are not closer than two feet apart, and the plants, eighteen inches in the row. They are treated almost exactly as Brussels Sprouts in every way. The heads resemble Cauliflower and are 24 HINTS AND HELPS served similar to it. They are purple instead of white. They are ready to eat in about twenty-one weeks after planting. Cabbage. All Seasons and Jersey Wakefield, are among the best early. Cabbages are grown for their leaves which form a head, which becomes very solid. It is boiled and eaten, or eaten raw in many different ways. The early crop should be planted in March in a shallow box in the window garden, or in the hot-bed. The seeds are covered about one-half inch. They can be set out, one plant in a place in rows, two to three feet apart and eight¬ een to twenty-four inches apart in the row. The seed will be up in about six days. The young plants are best trans¬ planted when the fourth leaf has formed. They will stand frost, but should not be put out of doors when it is likely to freeze. They do best on new ground. They can be planted outside from April 30th to June 15th. The easiest way to grow them in the garden is to plant three or four seeds in hills two feet apart. To make a hill, drop a pint of wood ashes in the row every two feet and work it well into the soil with the weeder or hoe, leaving the soil one- half inch lower than the rest of the garden. Drop three or four seeds and cover one-half inch; press down. When the cabbages are w^ell up they should be thinned to one plant in a place. The rows cannot be closer than two feet. It is very important that the cabbage be frequently hoed. Stirring the soil every few days will pay well. Carrots. Chantenay, Danvers, Half Tong Orange, Earliest Scarlet Forcing are among the best varieties. These are cultivated for their roots. They should be planted in rows twelve inches apart and one inch deep. The seeds should be planted fairly thick as they do not always germinate well. It is not generally good the second year. A rich, deep loam is best. The land should be pre¬ pared the same as for Beets. When well up they should be thinned to three inches apart. Cauliflower. Early Snowball, and Early Dwarf Erfurt are among the best. Plant the seed in boxes in the FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 25 window-garden or hot-bed, any time from March 1st to June 15th. When the fourth leaf has formed, the plants should be set out in rows, two feet apart and not closer than two feet apart in the row. The ground should al¬ ways be kept in a thorough state of tillage about the plants and it is well to hoe them in the morning when the dew is on. When the head begins to form, the long leaves should be tied over it to keep it white. Cauliflower like all the cabbage family, do best in cool weather and will grow rapidly if they come to the head during the summer. They will mature in from fifteen to twenty-five weeks. They will stand frost. Ceeery. Paris Golden, White Plume, and Boston Market are among the best garden varieties. The seed should be sown in a hot-bed or window box from April 10th to May 20th. The box should have lumps in the bottom for drainage and the upper part should be filled with fine soil. Seed should be evenly sowed over the surface and covered one-fourth inch. When the third or fourth leaf has formed, the celery should be transplanted into the hot-bed or other boxes two inches apart each way. From this the plants should be set in the garden, in rows four or five feet apart and eight inches apart in the row. They can be set as late as July 15th, on land that has borne a crop of peas. A crop of peas, radishes, let¬ tuce, onion-sets or even beans may be grown between the rows of celery. The seed germinates very slowly and may not be up for a month. New seed should always be used. Celery is ready to eat from twenty to forty weeks after planting. In the fall it should be banked up and just be¬ fore the ground freezes, it should be dug and packed in pits or in the cellar and the roots covered with moist sand. If packed in the cellar it should have the coolest part and packed as close as possible and handled only when dry. Properly packed it will keep all winter and can be used at any time. CEEERiAC. This is used in flavoring soups and is grown for the fleshly root which matures like turnip. It 26 HINTS AND HELPS can be grown the same as celery or the seed may be sown in the garden, in rows two feet apart and the plants thinned to eight inches apart. As it does not germinate readily, it is best to start the plants in boxes and trans¬ plant them. Sweet Corn. Early Cory, Squantum, and Country Gentleman are among the best varieties and will mature according to the order in which they are named. It is w r ell to plant a few rows of the early, and then make several plantings of the Country Gentleman so as to have sweet corn from July until frost comes. To get the most irorn the land, plant in rows, two and a half feet or three feet apart, putting three kernels every six inches, and pulling out all but one as soon as the corn is well up. The suckers around the roots should be kept removed. Corn should be planted on the north end of the garden or in such a way as to prevent shading lower plants. It grows from five to eight feet high. Squantum or Country Gentle¬ man corn planted on or before June ist, will be in condi¬ tion to eat, when school opens in autumn, if it has had care during the summer. Corn will be ready from ten to twenty weeks after planting, according to the kind. Seeds should be covered one inch and the land should be rich in potash. It is well to hoe a pint of wood ashes or a half pint of sulphate of potash into every ten feet of row before planting. It is not generally wise to plant field and pop corn in the same garden as it will mix, the pollen being carried by the wind. Corn Salad. Corn Salad is a salad plant for sum¬ mer use. Sow May ist, in rows twelve inches apart and thin the plants to six inches in the row. The trench should be made one-half inch deep. It is grown for the leaves which are used for salad. It can also be planted in September for winter or early spring salad in which case it must be covered with straw on the approach of winter. Cress. Garden Cress should be planted in furrows, twelve inches apart and one-half inch deep. The plants should be thinned to six inches apart in the rows. It FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 27 should be planted in the garden about April 30th, and the crop will be ready to eat in about five or six weeks. The leaves are eaten as a relish and used as a salad. CucumbKR. White Spine is one of the best for table use. Early Cluster, Ever Bearing, Windsor Pickling are good pickling varieties. The cucumber grows on a vine and should not be planted in very small gardens, unless along a fence where it can climb. It can be planted be¬ side a rubbish heap or a pile of stones to good advantage. It belongs to the same family as the canteloupe, water¬ melon, pumpkin, and squash, which are all planted the same way. They should be planted in hills not closer than four or five feet apart, although they may be planted nearer to early beans or early potatoes or any crop which will be out of the way before the vines begin to run. The vines are generally allowed to run on the ground. They are planted in hills. To make a bill , dig a hole from four to five inches deep and one foot in diameter. Fill this within one inch of the top with a mixture of sand and well- rotted manure. Drop eight to ten seeds in a hill, scatter¬ ing them over it. Cover them half to one inch and press down. When planted in this way they get a quick start. Never plant until the ground is thoroughly warm, about May 25th. It is well to keep the vines covered with a frame of mosquito netting until the fourth leaf has formed, then thin the plants to three or four in a hill. In warm weather they come up and grow rapidly. They begin bearing in from eight to ten weeks after planting. Dandeeion. The dandelion may be planted in the spring or in August or the first of September. The former time will give the largest plants the following spring. Plant in rows about April 30th, twelve to twenty-four inches apart and thin the plants to six or eight inches apart. They should be up in about eight days. It is jest to plant these in the sunniest part of the garden and to cover them in the early spring with sash so as to get very early greens. They should be planted in gardens that are to remain for two or three years. In case they are not all 28 HINTS AND HELPS used in the early spring, they should be kept mowed to prevent their going to seed as they may become a trouble¬ some weed. They are used not only for greens, but also blanched and used for a salad. The seeds should be lightly covered and the plants kept in a good state of til¬ lage. It is not a plant to grow in the School Garden. Egg Plant. Egg Plants grow on bushes from twelve to eighteen inches high. The fruit is purple and should be picked when it is about two or three inches in diameter. The seeds should be planted in boxes in the window garden or in the hot-bed in February or as soon as the first of March. Cover about quarter of an inch. When the third or fourth leaves are formed, they should be potted into two and a half inch pots and later repotted into four inch pots. They should be transplanted into the open ground about the first of June. The ground should be made very rich. They should be set about two feet apart in the row with the rows two and one half or three feet apart. In setting them, make a hole so the plant can be set a little lower than it was growing in the pot. To re¬ move it from the pot place the fingers over the pot, so that the plant comes between the first and second fingers, invert it, and thump it lightly on the table, bench, or spade, and the plant will be readily removed. Crumble the upper and lower edges slightly, place it in the hole and press the fine soil about the ball of earth firmly with the ends of the fingers. If it is dry it is best to water. You can begin cutting the fruit in about fifteen weeks after planting and they will continue bearing until frost. The Egg Plant like the tomato furnishes an oppor¬ tunity for lessons in potting and repotting. Endive. For an early crop start in the hot-bed or window garden and transplant the same as the egg plant in rows twelve inches apart with the plants twelve inches apart in the row. For the later crop sow from May ist to July 30th, in the garden, in furrows, one-half inch deep. It germinates readily and will be up in four to six days. FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 29 It is cultivated for the leaves which are used for salad. When well grown, tie the ends of the leaves to blanch the center with a soft material. It should be used about two weeks after tieing. Kale. Kale is planted in rows eighteen to twenty- four inches apart, and thinned to twelve inches apart in the row. It is planted one-half inch deep and can be planted at any time from April 30th to June 1st. It is used for greens and is best after it has been touched by the frost. It belongs to the cabbage family and makes its best growth in the cool part of the year. Kohe Rabi. Sow in furrows, twelve to eighteen inches apart, cover the seed one-half inch and thin the plants to six inches apart. They will be up in five to six days. Plant from May 1st to July 1st. The bulb is formed on the stem, just above the ground; it is cooked and served the same as turnip, but tastes similar to cabbage, only milder. They are best when not more than two inches through. If they stand long after they reach this size, they become tough. They are ready to eat in from twelve to fourteen weeks after planting. They can be stored in a cool cellar, and for a winter crop should be planted as late as July 1st. Lettuce. There are two kinds of Lettuce; the Cos and the Head Lettuce. The Head Lettuce forms a head like cabbage. The Hartford Bronzed head, Big Boston, White and Black seeded Tennis-ball, and Hanson make large and fine heads. Used for salad and table use. Let¬ tuce can be planted in-doors, the same as Endive and transplanted to the garden, May 10th, or it may be sown in the garden any time after May 1st to July 10th. Pre¬ pare the land the same as for beets, make a trench one-half inch deep and sow two or three seeds every four to six inches. Cover and press down. When the plants are well up, thin them to six inches apart. Keep the soil well- tilled around the plants, and as soon as they crowd, take out every other one for table use. In warm weather, let¬ tuce runs quickly to seed, and should be cut as soon as the 30 HINTS AND HELPS heads are well formed. The heads are ready for the table in from eight to twelve weeks after being planted. Let¬ tuce in the summer is not quite as good, but if planted the first of July, a fine autumn crop may be obtained. Lkek. Sow in rows, twelve inches apart, about April 25th, cover one inch, and when the plants are well up, thin to three inches apart. When eight or ten inches high, hill up to blanch the stalks. They will be ready to eat from sixteen to twenty weeks after sowing the seed. Mustard. White English is the best table variety. The leaves are used for greens or for salads. It is culti¬ vated the same as Cress. Melons. Both Musk and Water Melons are treated almost exactly the same as Cucumbers in the garden. For cultural directions, see cucumber. Okra. For an early crop of Okra, the seeds may be planted inside, in March, and the plants treated the same as Egg Plant. Out of doors the seeds should be planted about May 20th, in rows two and one-half to three feet apart. The seeds should be covered one inch and the plants should be thinned to eighteen to twenty-four inches in the row. The seed pods are stewed and also used in soup. It will be ready to eat in twelve to fourteen weeks after planting. Onions. Onions form a true bulb and are used in medicine as well as for table use. Sow the seeds as early as the ground can be thoroughly prepared. Hoe a little lime or sulphur into the soil where the row is to be. Make a furrow one inch, and press down over the seeds with a flat board or block. When the little plants are three inches high thin them out to three inches apart. Parsley. It is cultivated for the leaves which are fine and feathery in appearance. It is used for garnishing meats and flavoring soups. It is a biennial and will make an attractive plant for the window garden all through the winter. It is hardy and will stand freezing. It adds to a bouquet of flowers. It is better to sow the seeds in a box in the window garden. For this purpose mix one part soil and FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 31 two parts sand. Mix well and sift, placing lumps in the bottom of the box for drainage. Fill the box nearly half full of lumps, broken pots or pieces of brick; then put in a b C A set of Sieves. A, half inch Mesh; b, one-fourth inch Mesh; c flour Sieve. Buy the woven wire and any boy can make the first two sieves. Get the other at the hardware store. Cut loaned by Doubleday, Page & Co., N. Y. the fine soil, pressing down the corners with the fingers. Heap the soil up on the box, and with a smooth stick scrape it off level. Place the seeds in the left hand and with the thumb and fingers of the right hand scatter the seed evenly over the surface of the soil. Cover all, sift¬ ing a little dry soil through a flour sieve over the seeds, not more than one-eighth or one-sixteenth inch in thick¬ ness. Press down firmly and evenly with a block or board; put in the window garden and sprinkle with water thor¬ oughly. Do not allow the soil to dry up. When the young plants are up well, they may be transplanted into pots or other boxes. For this, mix one part of soil, one part of sand and one part of well-rotted manure together. Place a piece of broken earthenware in the bottom of the pot for drainage, then fill the pot about one-third full of the mixed soil; then holding the plant in the left hand so that it is in the center of the pot, fill evenly on all sides; press down firmly but not too hard, thump the pot on the bench or table to settle the soil; take it to the window garden and sprinkle it, placing it in partial shade for a day or two. Nearly all seeds can be planted and potted in this way. 32 HINTS AND HELPS A lesson in potting. These plants can be set out in the garden six inches apart. Always keep the ground in a good state of cultivation around them. Parsnip. Champion Hollow Crown is one of the best varieties. It should be planted in the garden about May ioth, in rows twelve inches apart. The furrows should be made one inch deep. The seed will be up in about two weeks. As soon as they are about four inches high, they should be thinned to three to four inches apart in the row. Parsnips are best, if they can remain in the ground through the winter, being dug as needed. They are much sweeter after they have been frozen. The soil should be deep and thoroughly prepared, the same as for beets. Peppers. Peppers of all kinds should be planted in the window garden, or hot bed about February 15th, and treated in every way the same as parsley or egg plant, un- FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. til they are set out. They should be set out in rows, twelve inches apart, and twelve inches apart in the row. The peppers will be ready to pick in about twenty weeks after planting. Peas. Little Gem or any of the dwarf varieties; if they can be planted against the fence, where they have support, the Stratagem, Champion of England and Tele¬ phone are among the best. The Little Gem is one of the best for the garden. Peas are raised for the peas which grow in pods, and are best when they are about the size of buck¬ shot. The land is prepared the same as for beans, except that the trench is made four inches deep, instead of three, and the peas are covered one inch. Leave the surface above them about two inches lower than the surrounding garden. When they come up, the ground is gradually filled in until it is level. All of the dwarf varieties should mature in from six to eight weeks after planting. Look for the nitrogen traps on the roots. Potatoes. Potatoes belong to a different class of vegetables, in that the part that is eaten is a tuber, a thickened underground stem. The land is prepared by making a trench four inches deep, and hoeing one-half pint of commercial fertilizers into each ten-foot row. The potatoes are cut so that there are two eyes to each piece. Place these pieces ten to twelve inches apart in the trench, and cover them about two inches. When the plants are up, keep the ground well tilled about them, and as they grow, heap up the soil, making a broad hill. Potatoes are about the only plants that it is usually wise under ordinary conditions to hill up. Watch for the potato beetle, which should be killed as fast as found. Rows of potatoes, like peas and beans, should not be closer than two to two and one-half feet apart. Potatoes develop underneath the ground; they are not roots, but tubers. The eyes correspond to the buds that you find on stems above ground. They contain a large amount of starch, and are used in starch factories, as well as for table use. Always keep the ground free from weeds and in a good state of tillage. 34 HINTS AND HELPS Pumpkins. Pumpkinsshould not be planteu in the gar¬ den, only around the edges or in the corn, or where they may run over fences and piles of stones. They are treated in every way for garden culture as cucumbers, which see. Radish. Hoe one-half pint of market garden fertilizer or a mixture of nitrate of soda and super-phosphate into the soil where the radishes are to be planted. Make a trench one-half inch deep, sow the seeds one inch apart, cover with fine soil and press down. All turnip shaped varieties of radish will mature in three to five weeks, and the longer varieties in five to ten weeks. The radish is grown for its root, which is for table use. It belongs to the same class as turnips, parsnips and beets, all of which should be planted in rows at least one foot apart. Radishes can be planted continuously and always insure a crop. Salsify. Salsify or Oyster Plant should be planted about May ioth, in the garden, in rows twelve inches apart and should be treated in every way the same as parsnips. Spinach. Spinach is cultivated for the leaves and should be planted about April 25th. It should be treated the same as beets. Summer Squash. Summer Squash is treated in the garden the same as cucumber, which see. Tomatoes. Tomatoes grow on bushes from eighteen to sixty inches high, according to the kind and the manner of training. The fruit is red or yellow and is for table use, both raw and cooked. The plant yields heavily and is generally one of the best plants for the garden. They should not be planted closer than three feet apart in the row and the rows should be at least three feet from any other crop, except radishes which can be planted within two or even one foot of them when the plants are first set out. The seeds should be planted the last of February or the first of March, in the window garden or hot-bed, the same as egg plant. The plants are potted into three-inch pots as soon as the third leaf is formed. They make nice plants for setting out in the garden about May 15th. I11 #?«& i fe •: Two kinds of measuring learned in gardening. Photo by EJdward Mahoney. 36 HINTS AND HELPS setting them, dig a hole so that the plant can be set one to two inches lower than it was growing in the pot. Put the plant into the hole and press the loose soil firmly about the ball of earth. If the weather is dry, water when setting. Stake the plants about July ist. Turnip. The early crop of turnips should be planted about April 30th while the late crop should be planted about July 25th. They are planted in the garden, in rows about one foot apart and thinned to four inches apart in the row. The seed is covered one-half inch. 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