Class f'y^ u Book:_ .Uc^ n Copyiight]^^iloPV_2) n COPyRJGHT DEPOSrr. Jl L-C From a Photo by Gilbert & BacoD, Philad'a. ^if-z^'z^ )f^£e^^-^^^;t^^:^^^ rtf^gfes^ From a Photo bj Sarony, New York, Jan. I9th, 1878. NOTES OF A Voyage to California YIA CAPE HOEN^, TOGETHER WITH SCENES IN EL DORADO, IN THE YEARS 1849-'S0. WITH AN APPENDIX Containing Reminiscences of Pioneer Journalism in California— California Day at the Centennial Exhibition, Philadelphia, Sept. 9th, 1S7C— Re-Unions and Banquets of the Associated Pioneers of California, in New York, January 18th, 1877 and 1878— Celebration of Admis- sion Day, at Long Branch, N. J., Sept. 8th, 1877— Reception to General John C. Fremont, Aug. 1st, 1878, and to Hon. Philip A. Roach, June 19th, 1876— Dedication of the Lick Monument at Fred- ericksburg, Pa., April 22d, 1878 — Extracts from the Manu- script Journal of the " King's Orphan," in the year 1843— Pioneer and Kindred Organizations ; TOGETHER WITH THE ARTICLES OF ASSOCIATION AND ROLL OF MEMBERS OP "THE ASSOCIATED PIOJIEERS OF THE TERRITORIAL DAIS OF CALlFOEJilA." By SAMUEL C. UPHAM. "wiarn ^o:Ei,T'z---s'X'v:EZ iijiiTrSTiij&.Ti02iTS. "all of WHICH I SAW, AND PART OF WHICH I WAS, PHILADELPHIA : PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR. 1878. C^ Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1S7S, by SAMUEL C. UPHAM, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D.C. PRESS OF Franklin Printinq House, 33 Hudson Street. PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA, WHO ENCOUNTERED DANGERS BY FLOOD AND FIELD, AND WHOSE BEAVE HEAETS AND WILLING HANDS HAVE CAUSED THE ARID PLAIN AND THE WILDERNESS TO " BLOSSOM AS THE ROSE," THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOE. ACKNOWLEDGMENT. To liis esteemed personal friends, Mr. Francis D. Clark and Hox. Jeremiah Sherwood, of New York ; Mr. Colin M. Boyd, Mr. William Winter, Hon. Philip A. Eoach and Daniel Norcross, Esq., of San Francisco, for their efforts in behalf of this volume ; to the Hon. Demas Strong, of Brooklyn, N. Y., for his proffer of pecuniary aid ; to the pro- prietors of the Examiner and the Golden Era, of San Francisco ; The Pioneer, of San Jose, and the Neivs, of San Diego, Cal,, who published in their respective journals the Prospectus of this book, and especially to the following-named gentlemen, who had the courage to read the manuscript, comprising six hundred closely-written pages, the author returns his grateful acknowledgments : Having been residents of California during the years 1849-'50, we cheerfully indorse the work written by Mr. Samuel C. Upham, of Phila- delphia, and consider the volume in all respects a truthful and creditable history of that period in California, and of such a character as should especially interest all who formed a part of her population in those days of excitement and experience. H. G. GIBSON, Brevet Brig.-Gen'l, U. S. A., Fort Wadsworth, N. Y. THOS. W. SWEENY, " " " 314 East I'iOth Street, N. Y. DEMAS STRONG 67 Broadway, Brooklyn, E. D. JOHN SICKELS 25 Pine Street, N. Y. EDWARD P. BURTON, Deputy Sun^eyor, Custora-House, N. Y. JOHN GAULT 71 Broadway, N. Y. BEVERLY C. SANDERS, ... 71 Broadway, N. Y. W. C. ANNAN ICO Pulton Street, N. Y. WM. M. WALTON 19 Dey Street, N. Y. STEPHEN L. MERCHANT, ... 53 Broadway, N. Y. ROBERT W. BOWLING 105th St. and Eleventh Ave., N. Y, A. T. GOODELL, 451 East 57th Street, N. Y. GEO. P. SNIFFEN, Sec'y Knickerbocker Life Ins. Co., N. Y. (viii) PREFACE. Preface — the last part of a book written and the first read. A book without a preface is like a coach without horses — an engine without steam. When the news of the discovery of gold in California reached the Atlantic States, in the summer of 1848, I held a somewhat lucrative situation in the counting-house of a mercantile firm in the city of Brotherly Love. The early reports were of so vague a character as scarcely to be credited by the most enthusiastic, and were pronounced by the skep- tical as visionary — schemes gotten up by the j^owers at Wash- ington to encourage emigration to California and Oregon. But when, in the fall of that year, the dispatches of Com- modore Jones, Colonel Mason and Thomas O. Larkin were officially announced by President Polk's Cabinet, and their statements indorsed by the President himself, soon after, in his message to both Houses of Congress, the existence of the ' gold-mines of California was acknowledged a fixed fact, and thousands started at once for the new El Dorado, and among them the reader's humble servant. When I resigned the quill for " the pick and the spade," it Avas my intention to have gone to California via the Isthmus of Panama, but on the eve of my departure, a communication appeared in the New York Herald, in which the writer depicted in such vivid colors the " hair-breadth 'scapes " by that route, that (ix) X PEEFACE. I abandoned my original intention and engaged passage via Cape Horn. My time, during the two weeks jirior to my departure, was mostly employed in making the necessary arrangements for the voyage. Expecting to remain at least one year in the gold-diggings, I purchased and shipped the requisite pro- visions for my subsistence during that time. I also stowed away in a large camp-chest, purchased expressly for that purpose, sundry dozens of flannel and "hickory" shirts, several pairs of inexpressibles, half a dozen hats, of the latest California styles, one of Krider's incomparable rifles, a six- shooter, with annnuuition to match, and last, though not least, one of those indisjoensable articles in a new country — an Arkansas " tooth-pick." As I was on the eve of starting, I added to my outfit a chest of medicine, accompanied by a book containing directions, which, if strictly adhered to, would cure all the ills which flesh is heir to. My mining implements consisted of a pick, spade and crowbar, a nest of sieves, a large tin pan and three patent gold-Avashers, each of a different pattern — first-class humbugs ! I also purchased an India-rubber ivater-proof suit — which was anything else than what it purported to be — consisting of coat, cap, long- boots and gauntlets, together with a tent of the same mate- rial, another jiroof of the old adage — a fool and his money are soon parted. But I was not alone in my folly. Many of my fellow-voyagers were equally burthened with " traps," which, on their arrival in California, proved to be quite as useless. I do not claim for these Reminiscences any great literary merit, nor do I expect to " put money in my purse " by their publication. They have been written amid the hurly-burly of a busy mercantile life, from notes taken at the time the incidents treated of transpired — their principal merit being a narration of fads, not fancies. I have devoted considerable PREFACE. XI space to tlie early history of Sacameuto City, where, during the spring and summer of 1850, I was engaged in the pub- lication of the Sacramento Transcript, and from the columns of that journal I have made frequent drafts. Should the reader become weary of the monotony of the long sea-voyage, let him turn to the portrayal of scenes in Rio de Janeiro or Concepcion, or to the more stirring events in Sacramento City, during the Squatter riots in the month of August, 1850. In conclusion, permit me to say, should anything in this volume add to the hitherto unwritten history of California, my labor will not have been in vain ; and I will also state, that throughout these pages my chief aim has been to " A round, unvarnished tale deliver, Nothing extenuate, nor set down aught in malice." Samuel C. Upham. Philadelphia, October 5th, 1878. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. The departure — Scramble to get on board — Last night on terra firma — Names of passengers — Departure from the Break- water — Discharge the pilot — Paying tribute to old Neptune — Storm at sea— Deck-load thrown overboard — Humorous incident — Brandy vs. Pilot-bread — Dissatisfaction among the steerage passengers — Captain Fairfowl shows his teeth — One of the sailors flogged — Mother Cary's chickens. 23 CHAPTER 11. Cruising in the tropics — Cabin passengers have a jollification — Cross the equator — Visit the bark Croton — Dissecting a shark — Passengers present a petition to Captain Fairfowl — A duel in embryo — Celebration of Washington's Birthday — Steerage passengers on short allowance — Gambling on board — Welcome visitors — Land, ho! — Enter the harbor of Rio de Janeiro — Impressions on beholding it — First hour on shore 40 CHAPTER HI. City of Rio de Janeiro — Visit to the market — Mode of nursing children in Rio — The Passeio Publico — Rare plants and flowers — Butchery of Santa Lucia — View of the city from Telegraph Hill — The Theatre San Januaria — Trick of the manager — A night on a dilapidated sofa — Emperor's church — Interior decorations — Yankee mercantile house in Rio — Visit to Praya Grande — The Frenchman and his orange grove — Visit to the Navy Yard — Scene at the guard- house — 'Convent of St. Benedict — Funeral ceremony — Mode of interment. ....... 61 (xiii) XIV CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. Visit to the museum — Precious stones, medals, etc. — Observ- ance of the Sabbath iu Rio — Washerwomen of the Campo Santa Anna — Visit to the Academy of Fine Arts — Paint- ings and sculpture — The Strangers' Burial-ground — Hot- corn women — American ladies bound for California — The Emperor's palace and garden — Visit to the latter — The Emperor's juvenile sports — Second night at the theatre — Dom Pedro II and Donna Therese — Slaves in Rio — Arrival of gold-dust from California — Arrival of the steam- ship Panama — News from home — California-bound vessels in Rio 76 CHAPTER V. Departure from Rio — Vessels bound for El Dorado — Auction sale at sea — A paj/ipero — Its consequences — Putting a little whisky where it would do the most good — Hail-storm — Raffle for a monkey — Melee between a passenger and the steward — School of porpoises — Sudden change iu the at- mosphere — Its effects — All hands on an allowance of water — Horrors of a passage around Cape Horn subsiding — All- Fools' Day — "The Perseverance Mining Company" — Ar- ticles of agreement 92 CHAPTER VI. Another gale — Salt-water coffee — Cabin stove broken — An- other hail-storm — Terra del Fuego — Staten Land by moon- light — Double Staten Land — Death of Jocko, the sailors' pet — Furious gale off Cape Plorn — The cook's galley cap- sized — Cabin passeugers on a jamboree — Another gale — Drifting about in the region of icebergs — Raw pork and hard-tack — Fresh provisions all gone — Novel method of obtaining fresh grub at sea — Double Cape Horn — Boxing the compass — Passeugers volunteer to staud watch — Capture of an albatross . . 107 CHAPTER VII. Another severe gale — Swollen limbs — Is it scurvy ? — Captain and mate have a growl — Fight between two passengers — One of the passengers celebrates his birthday — Gambling on board, and the Captain's mode of suppressing it — Fair CONTENTS. XV wind once more — Passengers again on deck — Punishing a ship's boy — Passengers object to putting into Talcahuana — Anchors gotten over the bow — Passengers watching for land — Make the coast of Chili — Head-wind — Driven out to sea . . 123 CHAPTER VIII. Put into the wrong harbor — Passengers go ashore — Reception by the natives of De Chatta — Deserters — Dine with the Alcalde — Ascertain our whereabouts, and start for Talca- huana — Scenery en route — Chilian peasantry — Their respect for the dead — Primitive wine-press and threshing-machine — Quarter of a century later — Henry Meiggs — His arrival in Chili — Brief sketch of his eventful life — Peace to his ashes 139 CHAPTER IX. Arrive at Tome — Dog-meat ^'.9. mutton — Embark in a whale- boat for Talcahuana — The Red Lion and its landlord — The Senorita^ — A night on a dining-table — The market — Coal mines — Feast on muscles — Funeral of a whaleman — Chilian fandango — Chilians, male and "female — Females making their toilet — Passengers arrive from De Chatta — Arrival of the Osceola in the harbor of Talcahuana — Breach of the Marine Laws of Chili — Threatened confiscation of the brig — Visit to the city of Concepcion — California-bound vessels in Talcahuana — Funeral procession — Visit to the Paps. 153 CHAPTER X. Description of Talcahuana — Theft of a water-cask — Punish- ment of the culprit — Our indebtedness to Captain Finch — The American consul — Departure from Talcahuana — Scene: in the harbor — Gambling on board — Salt-water dumplings — Becalmed — Increase in the price of mining implements — General washday — Magnificent scene — Passengers on an explpring expedition — Set-to between the Captain and cook — Fii-st knockdown for the cook — Sugar served out j)^'o rata 167. XVI CONTENTS. CHAPTER XI. Sunday at sea — Light and baffling winds — Man-of-war birds shot — Fresh pork — CanchaUxgua pills — Passengers on their muscle — Crossing the equator — Old Neptune initiates one of the sailors — Bed-bugs and fleas — Our old skipper under the weather — Fourth of July at sea — Jolly time and no whisky — Ship ahoy ! — Visit from the passengers of the ship Pacific — We treat them to salt pork and hard-tack — Later news from the land of gold — Captain Faii-fowl has the dumps 183 CHAPTER XII. Our last porker slaughtered — Cold weather in the tropics — Off Lower California — The Captain predicts a fair wind — Will wine vinegar inebriate ? — Provisions and water scarce — Head-winds — First mate ordered below — Encounter a squall — The cook and cabin steward have a free fight — Fog and Scotch mist — Drift-wood — Brig ahoy ! — Visit from the mate of the brig Spencer — Land ho ! — Farallone Islands — Come to anchor outside the Golden Gate. . . 199 CHAPTER XIII. Pass through the Golden Gate and come to anchor in the harbor of San Francisco — Visit the town — The Bank-Street dry-goods dealer — Recapitulation of the voyage — Scene at the post-office — Happy Valley — Leave the Osceola — In- telligence from the mines — San Francisco as it was — Crime and its punishment — The Parker House and its gambling- tables — Climate of San Francisco — Start for the mines — Mosquitoes and tides — Arrival at Stockton — Stockton in '4^ — En route to the mines 214 CHAPTER XIV. First day and night on the road — Digger Indians — The sur- prise — Badly frightened — "Song of the Gold-Digger" — The wrong road — Arrival at the "diggins" — Commence operations — The result — Rich " diggins " reported — Start on a prospecting tour — Return disgusted — Discovery of a rich bar — Commence operations — Sickness of the Author — Re- turn to Stockton — Leave Stockton for San Francisco — / CONTENTS. XVll Changes wrought in two months — Canvass for a newspaper route — The Pacific Neivs — Its early history. . . 239 CHAPTER XV. First State election — The winning candidates — "Fire! fire! fire!" — A million dollars' worth of property destroyed— "Big Ames's" report of the conflagration — An eccentric judge — Muddy streets — First vocal entertainment in San Francisco — Early theatricals — "Them literary fellers" — Terrence McVerdant — "A rallying song for the gold- diggers." 262 CHAPTER XVI. Locate in Sacramento City — The Sacramento^ Transcript— First election in Sacramento — Three tickets in the field — Names of the city and county ofiicers elected — Meeting of the Council-elect — Demas Strong chosen President— He makes a speech — Adjourned meeting of Council — Mayor Bigelow's message read and accepted — First message of the first Mayor of Sacramento City 275 CHAPTER XVII. First conflagration in Sacramento City — Amount of property destroyed — Collation given to the fire department by Mayor Bigelow — Henri Herz, the French composer and pianist — His concerts in Sacramento City — First negro minstrel per- formance in Sacramento — Rowe's Olympic Circus — Grand soiree — Rival politicians — First meeting of the I. O. of O. F. in Sacramento City — The Masons and Odd Fellows establish a hospital — Sutter Lodge of Ancient York Masons — Private hospitals — First public marriage in Sacramento — The Placer Times — Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence. . 289 CHAPTER XVIII. Commercial advantages of Sacramento City — New buildings — First daily issue of the Transcript— The Placer Times follows suit — Sell my interest in the Transcript to ]Mr. G. C. Weld— Death of INIr. Weld — Tribute to his memory— Cap- tain John A. Sutter— Sutter's Fort— Attack on the Fort by theTndians — They are repulsed — Hock Farm. . 307 XVlll CONTENTS. CHAPTER XIX. Grand entertainment given at Hock Farm by Captain Sutter — Full report of the affair — Letter from Thomas O. Larkin — Mr. Francis D. Clark and others resolve that one man is as good as another, provided he behaves himself — The glorious Foui'th — Its first celebration in Sacramento City — " The Ancient Order of Bricks" and the Sons of Temperance publish their programmes of exercises — A jolly Fourth of July. ......... 323 CHAPTER XX. Land-titles in Sacramento City — The squatters organize and mean business — Buildings erected by the squatters demol- ished — The squatters hold incendiary meetings and declare war to the knife — Assessor Woodland and Sheriff McKinney killed and Mayor Bigelow dangerously wounded — Burial of Assessor Woodland and Sheriff McKinney — The citizens organize military companies — Relief for the overland emi- grants — Farewell to Sacramento City. . . . 833 CHAPTER XXI. Down the Sacramento on the steamer Senator — San Francisco in the fall of 1850 — Farewell, San Francisco — Homeward bound — The steamer Columbus — Captain Peck — Incidents on board — Arrival at Acapulco — Scenes on shore — Conflict of authority — Overland emigrants via City of Mexico — Arrival at Panama — Go ashore pig-a-back — Immersion without the benefit of clergy — Panama in 1850 — Two of the Columbus's passengers die of cholera. . . 354 CHAPTER XXII. Leave Panama — To Cruces on mule back — Down the Chagres River in a hungo — Deaths by cholera en route — Mr. and Mrs. Gillingham — Go on board the steamship Falcon — Deaths by cholera — Burial at sea — Arrival at Havana — An afternoon and night on shore — Take passage on the steamship Ohio for New York — Arrival at New York — Departure for Philadelphia — Home again. . . 370 CONTENTS. XIX APPENDIX. PIONEER JOURNALISIM IN CALIFORNIA. The Pacific News — Its editors and proprietors — " Boston," alms "Big Ames" — First newspaper published in California — The Alta California — Sacramento Transcript and Placer Times— The Golden Era— Bvet Harte, Mark Twain and Prentice Mulford — San Francisco Picayune, Courier and Herald — Marysville Herald — Stockton Times — Sonora Herald 385 "CALIFORNIA DAY" AT THE CENTENNIAL EX- HIBITION. Preliminary meeting in New York — Committee appointed — Rev. Albert Williams addresses the meeting — Programme of exercises — 'Forty-niners and other Californians present — Distinguished guests — Addresses by Hon. Rodman M. Price, Generals H. G. Gibson and Joe Hooker, Governor Curtin, General Sutter, Governor Hartranft and Colin M. Boyd — "Song of the Argonauts" — The banquet — Fire! fire! — Telegrams sent to San Francisco 398 SECOND ANNUAL RE-UNION AND BANQUET OF " THE ASSOCIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRI- TORIAL DAYS OF CALIFORNIA." Committee of Arrangements — Report of Secretary and Treas- urer Clark — Election of officers — The banquet — President Gibson's address — Addresses by General Thomas D. Johns, Joseph S. Spinney, Clark Bell, Colonel James M. Turner, Samuel C. Upham and Colonel John A. Godfrey. 424 CELEBRATION OF "ADMISSION DAY" AT LONG BRANCH, N. J. Programme of exercises — Pioneers present — The_ banquet — General Gibson's address of welcome — Introduction of Gen- eral Sutter— Letters of regret— Mayor McKune's address — General Sutter's response— Poem— " The Land We Adore" — Bayard Taylor speaks a piece — "Song of the Argo- nauts " — Hop in the evening in honor of General Sutter — T&legram sent to California— The reply. . . 438 XX CONTENTS. THIRD ANNUAL RE-UNION AND BANQUET OP " THE AHBOUIATED PIONEERS OF THE TERRI- TORIAL DAYS OE CALIFORNIA." Sccrolary and Treasurer Clark's report — President Gibson's annual address — Election of officers for the current year — The banquet — Progrannne of exercises — General II. G. Gib- son's address of welcome — Letters of regret — Prentice INIul- lord's address — Speec^hes by Judge Pratt, Colonel T. 13. Thorpe, Colonel Edward F. Burton, Clark Bell, J. J. McCloskey, Colonel Joe Lawrence, Hon. Denuis Strong, Joseph S. Spinney, Francis D. (^lark and General Thomas D. , Johns — " Y" Ancient Yuba Miner" — Notables present — " Song of the Argonauts " — Good-night. . . 456 RECEPTION TO GENERAL JOHN C. FREMONT. Formal reception by General Fremont — Notables present — Decorations of the hall — The baiupiet — Vice-President Gib- son's address of welcome — General Fremont's response — Letters of regret read by the Secretary — Speeches, etc. 482 RECEPTION TO HON. PHILIP A. ROACH. The banquet — General H. Gates Gibson's address of welcome — Senator Roach's response — Letters of regret — Notables pres- ent — Speeches, etc. 497 DEDICATION OF THE LICK MONUJMENT AT FREDERICKSBURG, PA. En route to Fredericksburg — Reminiscences of the town — Genealogy of the Lick family — The house in which James Lick was born — The old graveyard — Cedar Hill Cemetery — • Unveiling and dedication of the monument — Addresses by Colonel J. P. S, Gobin, of Lebanon, aud Sanuiel C. Upham, of Philadelphia — Knights Templar inauguration cere- monies 504 Making and raising the " Bear Flag." . . . 503 Pioneer Organizations. ...... 566 " Truckee," the Indian Guide. ..... 568 " The Land AVe Adore," — Song and chorus. . . 570 A tribute to Gen. Juo. A. Sutter, and a touching rei^ly. 573 History of the inauguration and organization of the Associated Pioneers of the Territorial Days of Cali- fornia. ......... 575 ILLUSTRATIONS. Portrait of the Author, Preceding Frontispieee. 1. Portrait and Autograph of Gen. Sutter, Frontispiece, PAGE 2. Harbor of Rio Janeiro, .... 3. Mode of Nursing Children in Rio, . 4. General View of Rio Janeiro, 5. Portrait of Dom Pedro II, Emperor of Brazil 6. The Osceola in a Gale off Cape Horn, 7. Portrait and Autograph of Henry Meiggs, 8. Entrance to the Golden Gate, 9. Beach of Yerba Buena Cove, 1849, 10. Post-office, 1849, 11. The "Hounds" on a Rampage, 12. Parker House and Dennison's Exchange, 1849, 13. Interior of El Dorado Saloon, 1850, 14. Sutter's Saw-Mill, Coloma, 1849, . 15. City of Stockton, Fall of 1849, 16. On the Road to the Mines, 57 62 65 85 113 143 215 219 219 223 227 227 231 235 241 * The illustrations in this volume are from Original Sketches, Da- guerreotypes, Photographs, the " Annals of San Francisco," and " Cali- fornia Illustrated." The two latter were published soon after the dis- covery of gold in California, and are now nearly out of print. Dr. John H. Gilion, a Phlladelphian, and one of the authors of the "Annals of Scm Francisco," died in one of the Southern States, three or four years ago. Frank Soule and James Nisbet, his associates, are, I believe, still living in San Francisco. Mr. J, M. Letts, author of "California Illustrated," is a resident of Staten Island, N.Y. The illustrations of San Francisco, Sacramento City, Stockton and the mining scenes were re-drawn and enlarged by Mr. F. E. Lummis, and engraved by David Scattergood. The Portraits were engraved by David Scattergood and C. II. Eeed. (xxi) XXll ILLUSTKATIONS. PAGE 17. Miners at Work, 1849, 247 18. Mining Scene, 1849, 251 19. San Francisco, Winter of 1849-'50, . . . 255 20. "Old Adobe" Custom-house, 1849-'50, . . . 263 21. Old School-house, opposite the Plaza, . . . 269 22. Muddy Streets, Winter of 1849-'50, . . .269 23. Encampment at the " Embarcadero," Sacramento, 1849, 305 24. Sacramento City, 1850, 311 25. Sutter's Fort, 1849, 319 26. East Side Plaza, 1850, 355 27. Departure of a Steamship, Fall of 1850, . . 359 28. Pacific Coast Centennial Hall, . . . .401 29. Portrait and Autograph of Mr. Francis D. Clark, . 433 30. Y' Ancient Yuba Miner of the Days of '49, . . 475 2 Silhouette Illustrations of Y° Ancient Yuba IMiner, 476 ec (( a a ii u 4-77 Q te a (I a (c c( 4.7R 1 ti a li a ii ii 47Q 38. Portrait and Autograph of James Lick, . . . 507 39. " " John H. Lick, . . 511 40. Lick Monument, Fredericksburg, Pa., . . . 517 41. Fort and Port of San Francisco, 1843, . . .539 42. Military Barracks of San Francisco, 1843, . . 543 43. Town and Port of Yerba Buena, in San Francisco Bay, 1843, 553 44. Kussian Fort Boss, Bodega, California, 1843, . . 557 CHAPTEE I. The departure— Scramble to get on board— Last night on terra Jirma— Names of passengers— Departure from the Break- ^yater— Discharge the pilot— Paying tribute to old Neptune —Storm at sea— Deck-load thrown overboard— Humorous incident— Brandy vs. Pilot-bread— Dissatisfaction among the steerage passengers— Captain Fairfowl shows his teeth —One of the sailors flogged— Mother Gary's chickens. Monday, January 15, 1849.— Carried my bag- gage on board the brig Osceola, Captain James Fairfowl, bound from Philadelpliia to San Fran- cisco, California. At eleven o'clock, P. M., bade adieu to wife, child and friends, and went on board the brig to spend the night, expecting to sail early the next morning. The weather being cold, and no fire in cabin or steerage, I slept very little during the night. Two brothers of the name of Kelly, companions en voyage, accompanied me on board. Tuesday, Jan. 16.— At eight o'clock, A. M., the City Ice-boat made fast to the Osceola, and we were soon passing slowly down the Delaware. In conse- quence of the early hour at which we got under way, not more than one-half of our passengers were on board when the Ice-boat made fast to us. "We had not, however, gotten fairly into the stream, before the belated passengers might be seen at different points along the wharves, swinging their hats and (23) 24 LIST OF PASSENGEES. caps, and yelling at the highest pitch of their voices for the Osceola to slacken her speed and take them on board. One of the passengers, a corpulent indi- vidual, whom I shall designate as the Doctor, went shouting along the wharves until his safety-valve collapsed, and his steam and gas having become exhausted, he availed himself of the facilities offered by a boatman and came on board wheezing like a person afflicted with the asthma. Passengers came off to the brig at different points along the Delaware between Kace Street and the Navy Yard, and at the latter place the last straggler arrived. The folloAving is a list of the Osceola's passen- gers : Dr. Cassady, AVilliam Bassett, W. H. Bunn,» Wm. Freed, H. W. Gillingham, C. H. Bennett, J. Slaughter, A. Mecartney, W. McPherson Hill, George Guier, Jr., M. D., John A. Lessig, Pat. Langton, George W. Hart, C. W. H. Solinsky, Abram Powell, Wm. H. Graham, John E. Wain- wright, G. H. Weaver, T. P. Kleinhaus, AV. Wack, T. P. Dougherty, T. B. Butcher, Wm. Butcher, T. H. Bussell, S. K. Harman, Samuel Christ, H. B. Good, J. J. Cowden, J. A. Banks, Samuel C. Upham, Amos S. Kelly, Chas. S. Kelly, J. W. Folwell, T. J. Folwell, J. M'Clelland, David L. Munns, E. Boelime, Henry Prior, H. Shoenfield, H. Courvoisier, F. Dekirt, W. Arnold, J. Falls, John A. McCoy, J. Kellum, William Beenkin, C. Beenkin, F. Miller, J. Kimmell, J. Moore, J. Kep- heldt, F. Kline, H. Limberg, J. Hortsman, Hugh Brady, J. Hewdegan, George Dreka, John Hey- berger, T. S. Berger, Wm. Fetters, George AVilson, DISCHARGE THE PILOT. 25 H. K. Cummings, K, M. Patterson, Charles Weld- ing, Henry Hyde — G5 passengers : Caj^tain, mates and crew, 15, making together 80 souls on board. At seven o'clock, P. M., we arrived at New Cas- tle, Del,, where we made fast alongside the wharf for the night. During the evening a majority of the passengers went on shore for the purpose of having a jollification, prior to a six months' cruise at sea. They came on board about two o'clock next morning as mellow as peaches, and several of them will remember for a long time the last night on terra firma previous to leaving for San Francisco. Moderate breeze from S. W. Weather clear and cold. Wednesday, Jan. 17. — At seven o'clock, A. M., the Ice-boat got under way, and we jDroceeded down the river. At seven o'clock, P. M., we cast off and came to anchor inside the Delaware Break- water, with thirty-five fathoms of chain. The Ice- boat, in coming alongside with Captain Fairfowd, ran into us and stove our larboard main-rail badly. Passengers have been busily engaged during the afternoon writing letters to their wives, sweethearts and friends, with a view to sending them on shore by the pilot, who is expected to leave us to-night. After several efforts, I finally succeeded in scrib- bling a note to my wife, using my hat-box for a writing-desk. Weather cloudy and very cold. Wind S. W. Thursday, Jan. 18. — At half-past eleven o'clock, A. M., weighed anchor and stood out to sea, and at twelve o'clock, M., discharged the pilot. On leav- 26 PAYING TRIBUTE TO OLD NEPTUNE. ing the brig lie received three hearty cheers from the passengers, and when his boat receded from our view the last link that bound us to terra jirma was severed. A fine breeze springing up toward night enabled us to lay our course and scud along at the rate of ten knots an hour. Strong breeze from N. W. Clear and cold. Friday, Jan. 19. — Wind still fair, but the weather is cloudy and cold. Of the sixty-five passengers, all are sea-sick with the exception of three. The lee-rail is completely lined with de- moralized passengers, who are paying their tribute to old Neptune. Those who are not able to pay their respects to the deity of the great deep over the rail, are casting up their accounts in buckets, w^ash-basins and spittoons. In consequence of the coldness of the weather, I remained in my berth all day. Considerable excitement was caused to- day in consequence of the man at the wheel being found slightly inebriated. This led to an in- vestigation of the matter, and in searching the forecastle a jug of whisky was found in the chest of one of the sailors, which the Captain ordered thrown overboard. Distance sailed, 184 miles. Latitude 37° 47'. Saturday, Jan. 20. — This morning wind light and baffling, being barely sufficient to keep the brig steady. At ten o'clock, A. M., passed the ship St. Louis, bound west. Sea-sick passengers look better this morninlain bitterly of a scanty allowance of food, also of the manner in which it is cooked. A small codfish and two dozen potatoes were served up to-day for dinner for thirty-six steerage passengers. This circumstance being re- ported to the Caj)tain, he j)romises that all shall be right on this score hereafter. Distance sailed, 116- miles. Lat. 35° 53". Therm, at M. 26°. Tuesday, Jan. 23. — Seven o'clock, A. M. Fine breeze from the N. E., which enables the brig to lay her course and make about eight knots an hour., 28 A WAR OF WORDS. Have had several light showers during the day, but the atmosphere is delightful. The passengers have nearly all recovered from their sea-sickness, and are lounging about the decks amusing themselves in various ways. They have not yet gotten their sea-legs on, consequently, cannot walk about the decks very readily. Passed a brig to-day, bound west, but could not make her out. Distance sailed, 176 miles. Lat. 34° 23'. Therm, at M. 25°. Wednesday, Jan. 24. — Wind from the north ; brig rolls lazily over the water, making little headway. Have been visited to-day by rain and sunshine, alternately. Several of the steerage pas- sengers have spread their mattresses and blankets on deck for the purpose of drying them in the sun. Owing to the leaky condition of the deck, the upper tier of steerage berths have been saturated with w^ater since leaving Philadelphia. The Cap- tain and second mate had an altercation this morn- ing, in wdiicli they called each other everything but gentlemen. This war of words ended by the Cap- tain sending the mate below and putting him off duty. Passed three vessels during the day. Dis- tance sailed, 157 miles. Lat. 34° 11'. Therm, at M. 28°. Thursday, Jan. 25. — Fine breeze from the N. E. and weather clear. All sails set by the wind. The steerage passengers still complain of their ac- commodations. They have been grossly imposed upon by Burling & Dixon, owners of the brig. A large portion of the steerage is occupied with freight and luggage belonging to the cabin passen- PASSENGERS ASSIST THE CREW. 29 gers. Bills of lading having been executed for the freight it should have been stored in the hold of the brig or left on shore. A flying-fish was found on deck this morning, it having flown on board durino; the nic-lit. It was cooked and eaten by one of the j^assengers. Distance sailed, 143 miles. Lat. 32° 41'. Therm, at M. 27°. Friday, Jan. 26. — Throughout the last twenty- four hours heavy squalls accompanied by rain. Brig laboring and straining very much, and ship- ping heavy seas. The jib was split to-day during a severe squall. The steerage passengers assisted the crew in shortening sail. The Osceola, left Philadelphia without a full crew, having only six men and two boys before the mast to work a brig of two hundred and seventy-six tons burthen, around Cape Horn. Distance sailed, 140 miles. Lat. 31° 21'. Therm, at M. 33°. Saturday, Jan. 27. — Gale still continues with increased violence. Top-sails double-reefed ; sea running very high and brig straining badly. In the afternoon, the crew commenced shifting deck- load, which was somewhat wet and damaged. Found that the water in one cask had entirely leaked out, and another cask was only one-third full. Burling & Dixon, in their hurry to get the brig to sea, caused the water-casks to be filled without having the hoops tightened, hence the result. If the casks in the hold are in the same condition as those on deck, we shall most certainly be on a short allow- ance of water in the tropics. Distance sailed, 72 milesr Lat. 30° 41'. Therm, at M. 36°. oO A SEVERE GALE. Siuidaij, Jan. 28. — Morning, wind light and baf- fling ; meridian, wind has died away and it is nearly a dead calm. Afternoon, light squalls accompanied by rain. For several days past, a few of the steer- age passengers have been in favor of having their rations weighed ont, wdiile others have opposed the measure. This morning the Captain gave the first mate orders to serve out naval rations to the steer- age passengers until further orders. Passengers and crew served with water this morning — three quarts to each person. This afternoon the crew removed the " iceboards " from the bow of the brig. Distance sailed, 31 miles. Lat. 30° 52'. Therm, at M. 40°. Monday, Jan. 29. — At daylight this morning the wind suddenly increased to a gale. We were com- j^elled to hard-up the helm in order to get the can- vas off the brig. At eight o'clock, A. M., hove to under close-reefed maintop-sail and stay-sail, with a heavy sea running, wdiicli caused the brig to strain very much. To add to our peril, the foi'- ward cabin now began to work with the strain of the deck-load. The safety of the brig compelled the Captain to give orders to heave overboard the principal part of the deck-load to ease her. With the exception of a few ship's stores, it belonged to the passengers, and consisted of provisions, brandy, house-frames and gold-washers. Unfortunately, several of the passengers had their entire freight on deck, consisting of j^rovisions for their subsistence in California. Poor fellows ! they will be in a sad plight on arriving in iSan Francisco, almost penni- Aisr AMUSING INCIDENT. 31 less and without provisions. The throwing over- board a cargo at sea for the purpose of saving the ship is anything but agreeable when nothing but a j)lank separates one from eternity. During the gale the following ludicrous incident occurred : While all hands, passengers and crew, were busily engaged staving in the heads and throwing over- board brandy, molasses and vinegar casks, a fellow- passenger, who had " Done the State some service " during the late war with Mexico, and being withal a great lover of whisky, caught up from off the deck both hands full of a mixture of brandy, mo- lasses, vinegar and salt water, and after taking a hearty swig, exclaimed, ^^Jimminy, boys, this isjirst- rate swanheyT The same individual, during the destruction of the brandy casks, labored extremely hard to preserve one from the general wreck, which on being broached, jiroved to be, to his great chagrin, a brandy cask filled with j)ilot-bread. While the casks composing the deck-load were waltzing to one of the tunes of old Boreas, the two ship's boys and one of the passengers had their propellers slightly injured. Distance sailed, 116 miles. Lat. 31° 45'. Therm, at M. 44°. Tuesday, Jan. 30. — Went on deck at six o'clock this morning and found the gale still raging; brig under close-reefed sails. The main-hatch was broken out to-day for the purpose of getting at the water, all on deck having been used. In conse- quence of the leaky condition of the casks, one- 32 IMPOSITION OF BURLING & DIXON. third of the water was found to have leaked out of each of the five casks broken out. We sliall most certainly suffer for the want of fresh water before reaching Kio de Janeiro. Owing to the crowded state of the brig, the ac- commodations in cabins and steerasje are miserable. The passengers belonging to the latter, in particular, have been shamefully imposed U23on by the owners, as the following facts will fully dem.onstrate : — When the steerage berths were taken, a table was fitted up for the use of the j)assengers, at which thirty persons could be comfortably seated, and the steerage was tolerably Avell lighted by sky- lights. When the Osceola was on the eve of leav- ing the j)ort of Philadelphia, the table and seats were removed by order of the owners of the brig, and the space occupied by them stowed with cases chests and trunks, a large ^^oi'tion of which be- longed to the cabin passengers ; consequently, the steerage j^assengers have been compelled to mess on chicken-coops, pig-pens, water-casks and trunks, subjected to almost every imaginable inconvenience. In fact, the brig has been a perfect Hades since she sailed from Philadelphia. The steerage of the brig contains less than six hundred and fifty superficial feet, and there are forty-four souls, including mates, stewards and cooks, who sleep in it, which is twelve persons more than is allowed by the laws of the United States to passenger vessels passing through the tropics. Distance sailed, 124 miles. Lat. 31° 07'. Therm, at M. 49°. Wednesday, Jan. 31. — Went on deck this morn- DUFF FOK BREAKFAST. 66 ing at seven o'clock and found the brig jum2:>ing through the water at the rate of eight knots an hour, with starboard studding-sails all set. This is the most delightful day experienced since leaving Philadelj^hia. We had a partial break-out in the steerage to-day, which has added very much to the convenience of the passengers. The Captain or- dered the booby-hatch removed for the purjDose of more thoroughly ventilating the steerage. The brig has no wind-sails on board, but the Ca2:)tain has 23romised to have one made for the steerage at once. Distance sailed, 49 miles. Lat. 30° 44'. Therm, at M. 56°. Thursday, Feb. 1. — Eight o'clock, A. ]M., fine breeze from W. S. AV. and clear. Studding-sails set below and aloft, and brig making eight knots an hour, which is all we can get out of the old tub. This being duff-day, the flour and raisins were served out last evening to the caterers of the steer- age messes for their duff. The ingredients were accordingly mixed and taken to the cook last even- ing in order that they might be put into the coppers early this morning to boil for dinner ; but the boys, on going to the galley for their coffee, were taken all aback by the cook's presenting them with their duff for breakfast, piping hot, a mistake chargeable to the misplaced zeal of the son of a sea-cook ! The circumstance was reported to the Captain, who gave the cook orders in future not to boil duff for break- fast ! Distance sailed, 158 miles. Lat. 30° bo'. Therm, at M. 63°. Friday, Feb. 2. — This is my birthday. Thirty 34 EEALITY VS. EOMAISTCE. years old to-day. Have been a rolling-stone all my life, consequently have gathered no moss. Am now in search of " the golden fleece," and may re- turn shorn. JVous vcrrons! At eleven o'clock last night the wind commenced blowing a gale from N. N. E. At twelve o'clock sj^lit foretop-sail ; soon after sent down royal-yards and hove the brig to. At eight o'clock this morning repaired top-sail and let the close reef out of the maintop-sail. At meridian, the storm abated somewhat, but the sea is still running very high, causing the brig to labor heavily and ship an occasional sea. Commenced reading to-day a work entitled " What I Sav7 in California," by Edwin Bryant, in which I am deeply interested. Mr. Bryant traveled the over- land route to California, via Independence, Mis- souri; and I regret very much that I did not take the same route in preference to this, via Cape Horn. Descrij)tions of a "life on the ocean wave" read very prettily on shore, but the reality of a sea voyage speedily dispels the romance. Distance sailed, 84 miles. Lat. 29° bb'. Therm, at M. QS°. Saturday, Feb. 3. — Went on deck at six o'clock this morning, found the reefs all let out and the light sails set ; brig sailing six knots an hour. The wind continuing fair in the afternoon, the Captain ordered the larboard topmast and top-gallant stud- ding-sails set, which caused the brig to bound mer- rily over the water, shortening the distance between us and the golden land to which we are bound. God grant that we may have a safe and sj^eedy pas- sage to our port of destination, and that, on our MOSQUITOES AND MI]!^ISTEES. 35 arrival, our most sanguine expectations may be realized. Distance sailed, 166 miles. Lat. 30° 17'. Therm, at M. 71°. Smiday, Feb. 4. — To-day, wind light and baffling, but the weather is delightfully pleasant. Being religiously inclined I borrowed a Bible from a fellow-passenger — not being provided with one my- self — read a chapter, and cogitated in my mind a sermon suited to the occasion. I regret exceed- ingly that I did not bring a Bible and Prayer-Book with me, for I expect to do my own preaching during the next two years. California will joroba- bly be better supplied with mosquitoes than minis- ters. Distance sailed, 125 miles. Lat. 29° bb'. Therm, at M. 67°. Ilonday, Feb. 5. — Fine breeze from W. S. W., w^eather clear and ^^leasant. Passengers assisted the crew in breaking out the main-hold for w\ater and provisions. Found the water in two of the casks nearly half leaked out, which fully confirms in my mind a previously-expressed opinion that we shall run short of fresh water before reaching Rio de Janeiro. Several of the passengers have already become weary of a sea voyage, and have been talk- ing very strongly to-day of leaving the Osceola at Bio, crossing the Andes to Valparaiso, and awaiting there the arrival of the brig, thus avoiding the pas- sage around Cape Horn. I consider the project an insane one, one which I would not attempt for any earthly consideration, and shall use my best endeavors to dissuade others from hazarding their lives-in an undertaking so futile and foolhardy. 36 SHOET ALLOWANCE OF WATEK. The distance across from Kio to Valparaiso is far greater than at any other point on the continent of South America, and the journey would be attended with incredible hardship and suffering. Having paid my passage to San Frnncisco on board the brig Osceola, I intend, if my life be spared, to remain by her until she reaches that port or goes to Davy Jones's locker. Distance sailed, 92 miles. Lat. 28° 27'. Therm, at M. 78°. Tuesday, Feb. 6. — This morning, at daylight, weather fair with a fresh breeze from N. N. E. The brig is making nine knots an hour, which is something remarkable for her, and all hands, in- cluding the cook, feel jolly. At ten o'clock, A. M., we exchano-ed siojnals with a French briar steerino; N. N, W. The crew, assisted by the j^assengers, broke out the main-hold again to-day in search of water. More leaky casks found, in consequence of which the Captain has put all hands on an allow- ance of five pints of water to each person. Yester- day, we struck the " trades," in longitude 37° 20. Distance sailed, 182 miles. Lat. 2G° 31'. Therm, at M. 71°. Wednesday, Feb. 7. — Throughout to-day, fresh breeze from N. E., with occasional squalls and light rain. The cabin passengers have been growling for some time about their miserable accommoda- tions, and to-day have declared war to the knife. They have resolved to hold an indignation meeting, and on their arrival at Kio de Janeiro to report the proceedings with their grievances to the American consul at that port, and ask his interference in the ANOTHER WAR OF WORDS. 37 matter. They swear by all the saints in the calen- dar that the Osceola shall not leave Kio until mat- ters are adjusted to their entire satisfaction. Both cabin and steerage passengers have much cause for complaint, and I sincerely hope that justice may be done to all on board before the Osceola leaves Kio. Distance sailed, 190 miles. Lat. 24° 22'. Therm, at M. 69^ Thursday^ Feb. 8. — We crossed the Tropic of Cancer to-day and may expect excessively hot weather until we cross Capricorn. Last evening an altercation occurred between the Captain and first mate, Mr. Howell, in relation to the pumps, which resulted in the latter being put off duty. During the controversy they were not very choice in their selections from the King's English. The opinions of the passengers, in relation to this matter, appear to be about equally divided, although I am inclined to the belief that were a vote of all on board regis- tered, a majority would be found in favor of the mate. To-day we have been favored with a fair breeze from the north-east, and all drawing sails have been set. Distance sailed, 176 miles. Lat. 22° 15'. Therm, at M. 71°. Friday, Feb, 9. — The weather this morning is as clear and balmy as a May morning in Philadel- phia, and the brig is gliding along at the rate of eight knots an hour. In consequence of the first mate being ofi* duty, the first watch last night was kept by one of the passengers, who in early life had served on board a man-of-war. There is nothing, in my opinion, 3 38 A SAILOK FLOGGED. more essential to the safety of a vessel and tlie lives of lier passengers than harmony among her officers. The Captain and mates of the Osceola have been at loggerheads since leaving Philadelphia, and God only knows how mncli longer this asperity of feel- ing will continue to exist betw^een them. A brig, supposed to be the Oniotay bound for San Francisco, which sailed from Philadelphia five days ahead of the Osceola, has been on our weather- quarter, five miles distant, during the afternoon, but we are now rapidly leaving her astern. We are to-day in the latitude of the Cape de Verde Islands, and about thirty hours' sail, Osceola time, to the westward of them. Distance sailed, 174 miles. Lat. 19° 53'. Therm, at M. 72°. Saturday, Feb. 10. — Went on deck at seven o'clock this morning, and found the weather de- lightfully pleasant. The brig is being wafted along by the trade-winds at the rate of eight knots an hour. The Captain flogged one of the sailors this morning for a trifling misdemeanor, and the passengers have been gathered in knots about the deck, during the forenoon, discussing the matter. The majority appear to be opposed to corporeal punishment, but are willing to admit that the safety of the brig depends on the maintenance of strict discipline. During the twenty-four hours ending at twelve o'clock,.M-j to-day, the Osceola has sailed 205 miles, being a greater distance than she has made during any previous day since leaving the Ca2")es of the Delaware, Three cheers for the Osceola ! She MOTHER CARY's CHICKENS. 39 certainly smells land. Several flying-fisli came on board during last night. I have j^reserved one of their wings as a memento of the tropics. Lat. 1G° 52'. Therm, at M. 75°. Sunday J Feb. 11. — Although it has been hazy to-day, the weather has not been oppressive in consequence of the trade-winds, which in this latitude are bracing and invigorating. This morn- ing, Mr. Howell, the first mate, presented me with a Bible, for which I feel very grateful. Law and physic have several votaries on board the Osceolay but divinity has not a single representative. During the day I have noticed several flocks of " Mother Gary's chickens" flying around the brig and skimming over the surface of the water. These little messengers of the deep are of the size and color of a swallow, and are regarded by most sailors with feelings of superstition and reverential awe. Some mariners fully believe them to be the winged spirits of their dej)arted comrades, and consider it a great sacrilege to attemj)t to capture or kill them. Distance sailed, 202 miles. Lat. 13° 53'. Therm, at M. 76°. CHAPTER II. Cruising in the tropics — Cabin passengers have a jollification — Cross the equator — Visit the bark Crotoii — Dissecting a shark — Passengers present a petition to Captain Fairfowl — A duel in embryo — Celebration of Washington's Birthday — Steerage passengers on short allowance — Gambling on board — Welcome visitors — Land, ho ! — Enter the harbor of Rio de Janeiro — Impressions on beholding it — First hour on shore. Monday, February 12. — The weatlier continues close and liazy, with strong indications of rain. The trade-winds are gradually dying away, and we shall probably be becalmed before reaching the equator. As we were nearing the head-quarters of old Neptune yesterday afternoon, a letter addressed to His Highness was thrown overboard by one of his subjects, informing him that there were several candidates for initiation on board the Osceola. Early this morning a reply was received from the old salt, stating that he would board us as we " crossed the line " of his dominions, for the exj^ress l^urpose of j^erforming the " awful and terrifying " ceremonies of initiation, and requesting the candi- dates to be in readiness, as he could not be detained long from home, in consequence of the ill-health of Mrs. NeiDtune, Distance sailed, 192 miles. Lat. 11° 04'. Therm, at M. 77°. (40) BEST TIME YET MADE. 41 Tuesday Feb. 13. — The weather is as warm to- day as it is in Philadelphia in midsummer, and were it not for the trade-winds the heat would be very oppressive. To-day the caterers of the steer- age messes made a complaint to the Captain in relation to the quality and quantity of provisions received by them from the cook. He has promised to provide the steerage passengers with a cook and galley, on the arrival of the brig at Rio. If this promise is not adhered to, a full report of our grievances will be made to the American consul. Distance sailed to-day, 225 miles! Best time yet made. Hurrah for the old tub! Lat. 7° 45'. Therm, at M. 80°. Wednesday, Feb. 14. — Owing to the excessive heat, I slept very little last night, and throughout the day the weather has been very oppressive. Several of the passengers remained on deck last night rather than submit to a vapor-bath in their berths. Took a salt-water bath this evening, and feel very much refreshed. Distance sailed, 184 miles. Lat. 4° 41'. Therm, at M. 82°. Thursday, Feb. 15. — When I went on deck, at six o'clock this morning, the wind was light and baffling, with every indication of a calm. The brig has not made more than four knots an hour during the night. At twelve o'clock, M., it was nearly a dead calm, and the sails flapped lazily against the masts. In the afternoon we had a light fall of rain, accompanied by baffling breezes. This forenoon saw a hermaphrodite brig steering south by west, probably bound for Rio de Janeiro. This 42 STILL NORTH OF THE EQUATOR. afternoon ran into a school of skip-jacks, a species of the fumy tribe found in abundance in this lati- tude. They are about two feet in length when full grown, very plump, and of a deep purple color. The morning watch was kept by one of the ship's boys — a juvenile watch officer! Distance sailed, 134 miles. Lat. 2° 28'. Therm, at M. 81°. Friday, Feb. IG. — We have been becalmed all day within one hundred miles of the equator. Last night the weather was so excessively hot that a majority of the passengers slept on deck. During the night, four of the first cabin passengers, not having the fear of "delirium triangles" before their eyes, took it into their heads to have a jollification. They made night hideous with their drunken rev- elry, to the great annoyance and disgust of those who were more quietly disposed. To cap the climax, one of the revelers had an attack of mania apotii this morning, which I think will have a tendency to check his bacchanalian j^i'opensities in future. Distance sailed, 58 miles. Lat. 1° 30'. Therm, at M. 8G°. " Jerusalem, my happy home," how hot it is ! Saturday, Feb. 17. — AVe are still north of the equator, having been becalmed during last niglit and this forenoon. I slejit on top of the cabin last night with nothing but the canopy of heaven for coverinc;. Earlv this niornino; the mate cau2;lit an al- bicore, being the first fish caught with a hook and line during the passage, although several lines have been trailing over the stern of the brig the past ten days. During the last week we have seen small fish in ACEOSS THE LINE. 43 abundance, but tliey do not seem to be very hungry. It has been rainy and squally all the afternoon, still it remains very hot and oppressive. Distance sailed, 30 miles. Lat. 1° 13'. Therm, at M. 84°. Sunday, Feb. 18. — It rained incessantly through- out last night. It seemed as though the flood-gates of heaven had been opened especially for our bene- fit. The rain ceased at daylight, and a fresh breeze from W. S. W. has enabled us to glide along at the rate of seven knots an hour this forenoon. During the night we caught a barrel of rain-water, which has enabled the passengers to indulge in the luxury of a fresh-water wash — the first since leaving Philadelphia. This morning one of the j^assengers caught a bonito weighing thirty pounds, which was served up for dinner. A large school of blackfish ]3assed us this morning to the leeward, half a mile distant. We crossed the equinoctial line about ten o'clock, in longitude 25° 40'. Neptune did not honor us with a visit, in consequence, I presume, of its being Sunday. Distance sailed, 83 miles. Lat. 0° ir south. Therm, at M. 80°. Monday, Feb. 19. — Another dead calm through- out to-day. It seems as though we were never to get out of the " horse latitude." Yesterday evening a bark was discovered to the windward heading for Kio. Early this morning we exchanged colors with her, and at ten o'clock, A. M., our stern boat was lowered and manned with 2:)assengers, for the pur- pose of boarding her. At one o'clock, P. M., our boat returned with a dozen passengers from the stranger, which proved to be the bark Croton, Cap- 44 A SOCIAL VISIT AT SEA. tain D. V. Souillard, which sailed from New York on the IGth ultimo, bound for San Francisco, with fifty-four passengers on board. During the after- noon, the boats of both vessels have been busily engaged carrying the passengers to and fro. " Some fifteen or twenty of the Crofon's passengers dined with us, and about the same number of our passen- gers partook of a collation on board that vessel. The wine bottle passed merrily around, and wit, sentiment and song imparted zest to the scene. Mirth and hilarity reigned pre-eminent, and every- thing went as " Merry as a marriage bell," until toward night one of our passengers, who had imbibed too much whisky, kicked up a row on board the Croton, which resulted in his being brought on board the brig by his shipmates and placed in durance. The accommodations of the j)as- senirers on board the Crotoii are most admirable. They are so much su2:)erior to ours, that one of our passengers offered f 150 to any one on board that vessel who would exchange berths with him. The offer was not accepted. Distance sailed, 35 miles. Lat. 0° 28'. Therm, at M. ^o\ Tuesday, Feb. 20. — The brig's awning was spread to-day for the first time during the passage, although for the past ten days we have, when on deck, been exposed to the broiling rays of a tropical sun. We are still within one degree of the equator, having made only five minutes of latitude during the past twenty-four hours. In consequence of the con- DISSECTING A SHARK. 45 tinued calm and the low state of our fresh water, each person to-day received his allowance of water separately, which called into requisition all the empty bottles, jugs and jars that could be found on board the brig. This morning one of the passengers caught a shark seven feet in length, and in less than twenty minutes after having been landed on deck, he was literally "used ui^." Never was a shark more thoroughly dissected. His vertebrae were cut out and divided among the passengers, each receiving a joint as a memento of his sharkship. Distance sailed, only eight miles ! Lat. 0° 33'. Therm, at M. 84°. Wednesday, Feb. 21. — Since sunrise we have been favored with a light but fair breeze from E. S. E. God grant that it may continue until we reach Kio. Yesterday morning, I was appointed one of a committee of three to present to Captain Fairfowl a petition signed by fifty-one of our pas- sengers, i^rotesting against the first mate's watch being kept by incompetent persons, thereby endan- gering the lives of all on board ; also requesting in resjDCCtful terms the restoration of the first mate to duty. This afternoon a written reply was received from the Captain, stating that he hoped to reach Kio in safety, but would not comply with our re- quest in relation to the mate, refusing in positive terms to restore him to duty so long as he (the Captain) " breathed the breath of life." The sun being obscured to-day, the old skipper 46 Washington's birthday. was unable to take an observation. Distance sailed, as per log, 45 miles. Therm, at M. 80°. Thursday y Feb, 22. — Last niglit, at twelve o'clock, we made the south-east " trades," and to- day we have been skimming along at the rate of six knots an hour. In consequence of the excessively hot weather, and want of exercise, two of the first- cabin passengers have had an attack of the rabies, and not having the fear of man before their eyes, have concluded to have coffee and pistols for two served up on their arrival in Kio. A challenge has been given and accepted, and all the preliminaries arranged by the seconds, to the apparent satisfaction of both parties. " It lias a strange, quick jar upon the ear, That cocking of a pistol, when you know A moment more will bring the sight to bear Upon your person, twelve yards off, or so ; A gentlemanly distance, not too near, If you have got a former friend or foe ; But after being fired at once or twice, The car becomes more Irish, and less nice." To-day being the anniversary of the birth of Washington, the ensign and pennant of the Osceola have been flying in the breeze since daylight this morning. At meridian, a salute with small-arms was fired by the passengers in honor of the day, and several National airs were played by the " EI Dorado Band." Daring the afternoon, speeches appropriate to the occasion were delivered by five of the passengers. The jubilee was kept up until CAPTAIN FAIEFOWL AND POTATOES. 47 a late hour in tlie evening. Distance sailed, 120 miles. Lat. 3° 32'. Therm, at M. 84°. Friday, Feb. 23. — Fair wind continues. Brig making seven knots an hour. In compliance with the Captain's request, I have to-day written out a list of provisions for thirty-six steerage passengers for seventeen weeks, as per scale of U. S. Naval rations, and, on our arrival at Kio, he has promised to purchase such provisions as are deficient, in order to com})lete the list. An altercation occurred this morning between the Captain and several of the steerage passengers in relation to their ration of Irish potatoes. The Captain and steerage p)assen- gers are continually at loggerheads. Scarcely a day passes without a shindy being kicked up between them. Saw two vessels to-day to leeward; one a brig bound south, the other a Belgian bark home- ward bound. Distance sailed, 200 miles. Lat. 5° 43'. Therm, at M. 84°. Saturday, Feb. 24. — The atmosphere is clear to- day, and the weather as balmy as a June day in Yankee land. The trade wind is wafting us along at the rate of eight knots an hour. The skirmish that commenced yesterday between the Captain and the steerage passengers, in relation to potatoes, as- sumed a more warlike aspect this morning, and the old skipper has given orders to the cook to cook no more potatoes for the steerage passengers. He also said he would throw the potatoes overboard rather than have them served to the steerage messes. This last straw has broken the camel's back, and a spirit of indignation prevails throughout the brig in 48 CAPTAIN FAIRFOWL A SEA-TYRANT. regard to Ciiptain Fairfowl's treatment of the steer- age passengers. He is a sea-tyrant, and totally nnfit to eommand a passenger vessel. The dinner for the steerage passengers to-day consisted of boiled codjixh and hard tach — all told ! If a more rascalhj dinner was ever placed before a like number of Christians when on a short allowance of water in a tropical climate, with the thermometer at 85° in the shade, and when surrounded with provisions in abundance, I have yet to learn Avliat it consisted of. The truth of the matter is, there is the d to pay, and no Irish potatoes to cancel the debt! Distance sailed, 173 miles. Lat. 8° 21'. Therm, at M. 85°. Sundaij, Feb. 25. — The trade winds continued throughout last night and this forenoon. Sunday has proved a very lucky day to me ever since leav- ing Philadelphia. Two weeks ago to-day, I was presented with a Bible, and to-day a fellow-passen- ger of the name of Patterson, a relative, I presume, of Billy P. of pugilistic memory, presented me with an Episcopal Prayer-Book, which I have been read- ing nearly all day. Should I have the good luck to obtain a Hymn Book before reaching California, I shall, on my arrival in that far-off land, possess the requisite documents for commencing the pro- fession of itinerant preacher. This afternoon, one of the steerage passengers shot a ganet as it was llvins: over the briir, but it fell overboard and was lost. The ganet is of the fish-hawk genus, and in size and color of plumage resembles that bird very closely. The potato war that raged with so much A LATE DINNER. 49 fury yesterday, lias gradually subsided. Distance sailed, 163 miles. Lat. 10° 33'. Therm, at M. 84°. Monday^ Feb. 26. — Our water, wliicli has been remarkably good until within the j^ast few days, is undergoing the process of fermentation, which ren- ders it very unpalatable. The potato war broke out again to-day, in consequence of no dinner being cooked for the steerage passengers. The circum- stance was reported to the Caj^tain, who imputed the fault to the cook, and he in return swore 2:)oint- blank that he had received no orders to cook dinner for the steerage passengers ! The dinner, however, was ordered to be cooked, and, at the fashionable hour of four o'clock, P. M., we dined on bean soup and pork, confident in the belief that a late dinner was better than no dinner at all. The brig has been steering her course to-day at the rate of seven knots an hour. During the day we have sighted four vessels ; two bound north-east, and with one, an American whaler, homeward bound, we ex- changed colors. One of the other vessels was bound south-east, for the Cape of Good Hope ; the other was a bark, bound north-east, with her we ex- changed colors, but could not make out her nation- ality. Distance sailed, 170 miles. Lat. 12° 50'. Therm, at M. 84°. Tuesday, Feb. 27. — The wind has been very light to-day, causing the brig to "make haste very slowly." During the last three days all hands have been elated with the idea of reaching Kio on Sun- day next, but we shall most certainly be disap- pointed unless favored with a stronger breeze than 50 A NEW GAME. that of to-day. We are at this time 900 miles north-east of Rio, yet an eight-knot breeze would waft us there in five days very easily. Some old sails have been si:)read above our heads to-day as a substitute for an awning, and the passengers have been amusing themselves by playing cards, domi- noes, backgammon, checkers, and reading, writing, singing, fiddling and dancing. The Captain being asleep and the first mate off duty, no observation was taken at meridian to-day ! To relieve the tedium of the voyage, the passengers have intro- duced a new game this afternoon — pitching jDennies, and while I am writing, the pennies are rattling on the deck over my head. Distance sailed, j^er log, 170 miles. Therm, at M. 8G°. Shades of Lucifer I it has been hot to-day. If I could only divest my- self of flesh and sit in my bones for an hour or so, wouldn't it be altogether lovely ? Wednesday, Feb. 28. — Last day of February and fifty-three days at sea! Rio not reached yet. Since sunrise, this morning, the brig has been rolling lazily along, scarcely making three knots an hour, which does not look much like reaching Rio this week. Captain Fairfowl has experienced a very sudden change of heart ! Yesterday afternoon full naval rations, with the exception of cheese, were served to the steerage passengers, for the first time since leaving Philadelphia. We received no cheese for the very best of reasons — there was none on board the brig. The Captain has promised the steerage passengers full naval rations when they arrive at Rio, if the articles of which we are defi- THE cook's devil. 51 cient can be had in that port. Among the rations served out yesterday, were butter, pickles and vine- gar, the first tasted during the passage. Our cook is possessed of a devil as large as a ground-hog. The soup for the steerage j^assengers was served up to-day in the following novel man- ner : A large boiler, from the galley, was placed in the lee gangway, exposed to the broiling rays of the sun, and the passengers were called to help them- selves as best they could. This scene reminds me of one witnessed in a Spanish barracks, at Port Mahon, in the Mediterranean, where the soldiers were marched up to a large kettle of soup, and the foremost after partaking of three spoonfuls fell back, and the person next to him advanced for his siiare of the spoils, and so on in turn, until all were served. This morning, a committee of three, consisting of Dr. George Guier, Jr., T. B. Butcher and S. C. Upham, was appointed by the j^assengers to wait on Captain Fairfowl, state their grievances, and request that they be remedied by him on the arrival of the Osceola in Bio. At three o'clock, P. M., the committee had an interview with the Captain, and he acceded to the following propositions : On the arrival of the Osceola in Bio, a waiter shall be shipped to attend to the wants of the first and second cabin passengers; a galley shall be erected and a cook shipped exclusively for the steerage passengers ; a table shall also be fitted up in the steerage for their especial use and benefit, and stores shall be j)urchased to complete the full 52 GAMBLING FOR MONKEYS. naval ration, which shall be served regularly there- after. Potatoes shall be served alike to cabin and steerage passengers. The committee are to be allowed the j)rivilege of seeing that the stores purchased for the vessel are of a good quality, and that the other arrangements are carried into effect before sailing from Kio. Distance sailed, 169 miles. Lat. 16° 55'. Therm, at M. 85°. Thursday, March 1. — During yesterday and to-day the Osceola has been bowling along with square yards, and studding-sails set below and aloft. Gambling has again broken out on board the brig — this time, in the form of an epidemic. Poker, monte and "rattle-and-snap" have been the order of the day during the past week, and to-day, by way of change, two raffles came off, one for a gold guard-chain, and the other for a gold watch. Both prizes were won by the " gentlemen of honor," who are to partake of pistols and coffee for two on their arrival in Rio. The forward cabin and steerage passengers have been jilaying cards and dominoes for dinners, oranges and monkeys, to be purchased in Rio by the losing parties. If the bets are all 2:>aid, there will be a scarcity of the raw material in the monkey market. A vessel was reported from the maintop this morning, bound north. Distance sailed, 173 miles. Lat. 19° 21'. Therm, at M. 87°. Friday, March 2. — This morning the rain poured down in torrents, accompanied by thunder and lio-htnino;. Just before the storm commenced two jack-o'-lanterns paid us a visit. One was stationed on the maintop-gallant-yard-arm, and the other MESSENGERS FROM LAND. 53 Oil the fore-truck, where they remained until van- quished by the rain-storm. The storm has been succeeded by a calm, and disaj^pointment is de- picted in the countenances of all on board. Early this morning a brown butterfly and a small land-bird came on board, and their visit was hailed with pleasure by all hands. The butterfly was retained a prisoner, but the little bird, after fluttering about the masts and rigging a few mo- ments, bade us adieu, and turning his head in the direction of the land, was soon lost to view. During to-day the surface of the water has been covered with a green substance, not unlike that which may be seen on a frog-pond. The sperm-whale is said to subsist on this floating scum. If so, I imagine they will never be troubled with dyspej^sia or gout in consequence of high diet. This afternoon a sail was reported on our weather-bow, heading the same direction with us. Distance sailed, 130 miles. Lat. 21° 15'. Therm, at M. 82°. Saturday, March 3. — Another severe rain-storm at three o'clock this morning. At the commence- ment of the rain several of the j)assengers were asleep on top of the after-cabin, but they Avere soon compelled to take up their beds and walk. The storm was succeeded by an eight-knot breeze, which Ave have carried all day. Should this breeze continue until eight o'clock to-morrow morning, we shall make Cape Frio, Svliich is seventy miles to the northward of Kio de Janeiro. Two of the passengers, carpenters by profession, have been engaged during the day constructing a 54 NEARING CAPE FEIO. galley for the use of tlie steerage j^assengers, wliicli, wlien completed and manned by a competent cook, will add mucli to their comfort. Distance sailed, 116 miles. Lat. 22° 28'. Therm, at M. 82°. Sunday, March 4. — A dead calm 2^i'<3vailed throughout last night and to-day. Went on deck this morning at six o'clock and saw Cape Frio directly ahead, about thirty miles distant. To the leeward of us lie the Papagayos, Anchor and St. Ann's Islands, Cape Busios, St. John's Hill and Cape St. Thomas. Caj^e Frio, looming up in the distance, recalled vividly to mind recollections of my boyhood's home, in consequence of its close resemblance to the Camel's Hump, one of the highest peaks of the Green JMountain range. During the afternoon the brig has drifted so near the shore that the light-house on Cape Frio can easily be discerned without the aid of a glass. A half-dozen vessels can be seen from our deck, standing in the same direction with us. A large green turtle was seen on our weather-bow early this morning, about thirty yards distant, making toward us with head erect. When within fifteen yards of the brig he bade us adieu by shaking his head and " Diving down below, down below." Distance sailed, 35 miles. Lat. 23° 03'. Therm. at M. 80°. Monday, March 5. — Last night a light breeze sprang up from the north-west, which enabled us to double Cape Frio. At daylight this morning GETTING EEADY FOR EIO. 55 the wind died away, and during tlie day we have been rolling about within thirty miles of the harbor of Rio, surrounded by half a dozen vessels similarly situated. The highlands and mountains of Brazil can be seen along the horizon in the direction of Rio, as far as the eye can scan, and from our main- royal-yard can be seen the Sugar Loaf, a high conical-shaped promontory near the entrance to the harbor. The passengers have been busily engaged to-day, shaving, shearing and clipping, which has called into requisition all the razors, scissors, hair-dyes, oils and pomades that can be mustered. They are all desirous of captivating the dark-eyed senoritas on their arrival in Rio. In consequence of the dis- ap|3ointment occasioned by the Osceola^ s not reach- ing Rio to-day, two of our passengers have adopted the whisky treatment in order to drown their sor- rows. Whether they will succeed in calming their troubled spirits remains to be seen, but they have succeeded in making themselves uproariously drunk. We spoke a Brazilian brig this afternoon, bound out of Rio for Pernambuco, with an assorted cargo. Distance sailed, six miles! Lat. 23° 09'. Therm, at M. 82°. Tuesday, March 6. — At nine o'clock last night we made the light on Razor Island, at the entrance of the harbor of Rio. We continued our course toward the light until two o'clock this morning, when the wind died away and left us within three miles of a rock-bound shore, which was being lashed 56 AT ANCHOR IN THE HARBOR. furiously by the angry waves. Fortunately, the tide set us off shore, and at daylight the roaring of the breakers was scarcely audible, although the coast for many miles in extent was distinctly in view. Soon after daylight a light breeze sprang up, which enabled us to steer direct for the entrance to the harbor of Rio, which we entered at four o'clock, P. M., and after passing Fort Santa Cruz on the right and the battery at the base of the Sugar Loaf on the left, we dropj^ed anchor about one and a half miles below the j^rincij^al landing of the city, at five o'clock, P. M. While passing up the harbor, we spoke the bark Elvira, of Boston, bound out for San Francisco, with sixty-three passengers. Suspended from her main-stay, were several bunches of bananas, which looked very in- viting, as I had not tasted fruit of any descrij)tion for more than forty days. As we j)assed Fort Santa Cruz, we were hailed in broken English by a Portuguese official, who thrust his curly head above the ramparts and bellowed through a dilaj^i- dated tin trumpet in a Boanergean voice. AVhat he said, we knew not and cared as little, and the reply of our Captain was probably received with like indifference. The custom of hailing vessels from this fort is " More honored in tlie breach than in the observance." The scene presented from the deck of a vessel on enterins: the harbor of Bio de Janeiro is unrivaled. The most romantic imagination can picture nothing more magnificent than this beautiful harbor, sur- PASSENGERS GO ASHOEE. 69 rounded by innumerable conical hills clotlied to their summits with luxuriant tropical verdure, and the valleys dotted with beautiful white villas stand- ing out in bold relief and contrast with the eternal green of the hills. Our anchor was scarcely down, before the news-boat came alongside. Soon after, we were visited by the Port Physician and the Custom-house officer. They had scarcely left us, before half a dozen shore-boats were alongside manned by half-naked negroes and Portuguese. The boats were soon filled to their utmost capacity by the passengers — scarcely a dozen remaining on board — and the word vamose being given, we soon passed the guard-ship and were landed on shore at the foot of Palace Square. Immediately after landing, I went by invitation to the counting-house of Mr. Philip Hue, grocer and wine merchant, No. 14 Pua Direita, where I wrote letters to my friends in the United States. A mail-bag was to leave on the following day, on board the bark Hope, Captain Hall, bound for Philadelphia. Having finished my correspondence, I repaired to the Hotel Pharoux, accomj^anied by three friends, and ordered supper for four. The supper, consisting of cold chicken, coffee and rolls, was soon dispatched and the bill called for, which was presented by a very pretty French bar-maid. On examining the bill, I was thunder-struck ! It footed up, as I supposed, seven dollars and eighty cents ! I handed the bill to my companions, who exclaimed, simultaneously, "robbers! j^irates! vil- lains !" I inquired for the proprietor of the hotel, 60 THE FIRST DAY IN RIO. for the purpose of ascertaining the price of chickens by the dozen. If they were two dolhirs each cooked, I desired to learn the price of the raio material ! The landlord soon made his appearance, and an explanation followed which soon placed matters in their true light. Our bill was four millreis and 780 reis, instead of $7.80, being about sixty-two cents each, but enough for cold chicken and coffee. There are at the present time in Kio fully one thousand Americans belonging to California passenger vessels, which has caused the boatmen, hotel and livery- stable keepers to increase their tariff of prices fully one hundred j^cr cent. Not wishing to pay fifty cents for the privilege of sleeping on the soft side of a billiard table, I went on board the brig at eleven o'clock, P. M., not overly elated with life in Bio. CHAPTEn III. City of Eio de Jtineiro — Visit to the market — Mode of nursiug children in Rio — The Passeio Publico — Rare plants and flowers — Butchery of Santa Lucia — View of the city from Telegraph Hill — The Theatre San Januaria — Trick of the manager — A night on a dilapidated sofa — Emperor's church — Interior decorations — Yankee mercantile house in Rio — Visit to Praya Grande — The Frenchman and his orange grove — Visit to the Navy Yard — Scene at the guard- house — Convent of St. Benedict — Funeral ceremony — Mode of interment. Wednesday, March 7. — Went on shore at eight o'clock, A. M., and after breakfasting at the Hotel Pharoux, visited the market-house, situated on the north side of Palace Square. The walls of the market are composed of stone, rough-cast, and the interior forms a hollow square. There are three arched gateways, or entrances, the principal of which, fronting Palace Square, is surmounted by an astronomical globe bearing a crown and cross, the Brazilian coat of arms. Tlie eastern portion of the market is occupied by the fish-mongers, and on their stalls is displayed the greatest variety of the finny tribe I have ever seen, and I question whether the fish-market of Kio is excelled in variety by any other in the world. In the northern and western portions of the market are exposed for sale tropical fruits in all their varieties, and vegetables of various (61) 62 SUBSTITUTE FOR CRADLES AND JUMPERS. kinds. Most of the stalls are attended by female slaves, many of whom have their little ones lashed to their backs with a strip of cotton cloth. The little pickaninnies remain as quiet in this position MODE OP NURSING CHILDREN IN RIO. as would an American child in a cradle or baby- jumj)er, and allow their mammas to perform their avocations without hindrance. After having spent two or three hours in the market, I sauntered down toward the southern j^art of the city and visited the Passeio Publico, a beau- tiful square inclosed by a substantial stone wall ten feet high. At the entrance, which is surmounted by a marble bust of the late queen, Donna Maria I, were THE PASSEIO PUBLICO. 63 stationed two guards, to wliom I tipped my Panama on entering, and walked leisurely about for an hour, viewing the trees, j)lants and flowers growing here in all their splendor. Among the trees under which I strolled were the genepa, tamarind, casuarina, bread-fruit, joboticaba and cocoa ; and among the rare plants I noticed the spiral aloe unfolding its long sword-shaped leaves. The flowers, of which there were many rare and beautiful specimens, were in square beds neatly arranged, and surrounded by a light and tasteful iron railing. Between the stairs leading to the terrace, at the southern extremity of the Passeio Publico, is a granite fountain standing on the backs of two huge brazen crocodiles. The terrace was decked with numerous urns and busts, and at the fountain a little leaden angel held by the tail a turtle of the same metal, from whose distended mouth issued a stream of pure fresh water into a marble reservoir beneath. On either side of the fountain, a little to the northward, is a triangular obelisk of granite, about thirty feet high, on which is the following inscription : "Au saudad de Rio — au amor publico y "To the health of Kio, and to the public love." Around the southern wall of the " terrace are marble seats, the wall above being inlaid with variegated porcelain. At each end of the ter- race is an octangular-shaped tower about thirty feet high; the basement and space between the two towers being a tessellated marble pavement of much beauty. From the Passeio Publico, I went to the butchery of Santa Lucia, a block of low buildings bordering 04 DESCRIPTION OF EIO. on the harbor, about half a mile above the Passeio Publico. At this place is slaughtered all the meat for the consumi^tion of the city and its suburbs. At the time I was at the butchery, eleven o'clock, A. M., all the beeves for that day, about two hun- dred, had been killed, and the knights of the knife and steel were busily engaged divesting them of their hides. The butchers were all slaves, and among them I noticed several drivers with pointed sticks, with which they prodded those that were inclined to lag behind. The beef was carried on the heads of slaves to the carts of customers waiting in front of the butchery. I next went to the Hotel de Norte, where I partook of a tolerable dinner, for Avhicli I paid seventy-five cents. After dinner, ac- companied by four or five friends, I visited Tele- grajith Hill, from which I had a fine view of the city, harbor and surrounding country. From this elevation, the scenery, as far as the eye can scan, is the most magnificent I have ever witnessed. Groves of oranges, limes, bananas and tamarinds meet the eye in every direction and perfume the air with their fragrant odors. The city of Kio is situated on the west side of the Kio de Janeiro, or River of January, about ten miles from its mouth or entrance into the ocean, and is surrounded on three sides by a range of conical hills, most of which are covered to their summits with fruits, flowers and luxuriant herbage. In the dim distance can be seen the Organ Mountains, raising their majestic heads far above the clouds as if eager to kiss the blue vault of heaven. A VISIT TO THE THEATRE. G7 Kio is very compactly built, and with its suburbs contains nearly as many inliabitants as New York, but does not occupy as much ground as Philadel- jDhia. The streets, which are narrow, mostly cross each other at right angles. There are in the city several public squares, or palazas, the principal of which are the Palace Square and the Campo Santa Anna, in each of which there is a public fountain, composed of granite and surmounted by the globe, crown and cross, the Brazilian coat of arms. The Rua de Ouvidor, the Broadway of Kio, is scarcely three j^aces wide, without curb or sidewalks. The buildings are composed of stone, with tile roofs, the walls rough-cast, and generally two stories high. In this city, as well as in all Catholic countries, the cathedrals, Convents and nunneries attract the attention of strangers. I have to-day visited sev- eral of these institutions, and the cowled monks and veiled nuns have brought vividly to mind scenes from the " Mysteries of Udolpho " and the " Chil- dren of the Abbey." The palaces of the Emperor are externally by far the most beautiful edifices in the city or suburbs. In the evening I visited the theatre San Janua- ria, for the express purpose of seeing the Emperor and Empress of Brazil ; but, for reasons best known to themselves, they did not appear in their box to be gazed at by the los Americanos. The first part of the entertainment consisted of feats on the tight- rope by the far-famed Bavel family, after which was performed a pantomime by the stock company, which amused me very much. The after-piece 68 A VISIT TO THE EMPEEOK's CHURCH. was a comedy, in the Portuguese language, not one word of wliicli was intelligible to nie. At the close of the jierformance I went to a public-house near by, kc^pt by a German, where I invested fifty cents for the privilege of trying to sleep on a dilapidated sofa until daylight. Thursday f March 8. — This morning, after break- fasting at the Hotel de Universe, I visited the Emperor's church, on the west side of Kua Direita, near the palace. An arched causeway or passage leads from the palace to the church, through which the Emperor, Empress and suite are admitted to mass. Externally, the church has a very dingy appearance, but its interior arrangements are more pleasing to the eye. As I crossed the threshold the hrst object that met my eye was one of the emperor's guards, whose complexion was a shade lighter than the ace of spades, with a musket at his shoulder, and stationed near the altar, at which were a dozen priests and friars, with shaven heads and black gowns, ducking and bobbing around a large silver crucifix, placed in front of a wax statue of Him who died to atone for the sins of the world. Worshipers of all ages, complexions and conditions were kneeling about the church and around the altar, there being no seats, saying mass. The walls and ceiling of the church are elaborately carved and handsomely gilded, and on each side are niches, occupied by statues of the various saints of the calendar. Around the church walls, near the ceiling, are suspended in gilt frames pictures of A CUllIOSITY SHOP. 69 the apostles and scriptural j^^iititings, several of wliicli were executed by the old masters, y At ten o'clock, A. ]M., at the solicita^fon of Mr. Howell, our first mate, I accompanied him to the office of the American consul, for the purpose of hearing the charges to he preferred against him by Cai^tain Fairfowl. After listening to the charges and the mate's defense, the consul discharged him from the brig. The captain and passengers of the ship Pacijic, from New York, now in this port, are at loggerheads, and to the great joy of the j^assen- gers, the consul has given Captain Tibbets his " walking papers." During the forenoon I visited the store of Messrs. Southworth & Sands, of New York, who have recently established themselves in Kio. The junior partner, is the son of Dr. Sands, of sarsaparilla fame, and their store is a curiosity-shop to the natives, it being a receptacle of all kinds of Yankee notions, from a jew's-liarp to a Troy-built omnibus! With the gentlemanly proprietors of this establish- ment I sj^ent an hour very agreeably, examining their stock of notions and chatting about matters in the United States. In the afternoon it commenced raining, and after purchasing a few articles of tinware, for which I paid three times their value in the United States, I concluded to go on board the brig. The market being on my route to the landing, I purchased a handkerchief full of oranges at half a cent each, which fully made up the loss incurred on tinware. On arriving at the lauding I was completely sur- 70 A PLEASANT EXCURSION. rouiitled by the boatmen, anxious to row me off to the brig. I paid an okl Portuguese five " dumps," a copper coin a trifle larger than an American doUar, to take me on board the Osceola, where I remained during the remainder of the afternoon and night. Friday, March 9. — I went on shore at eight o'clock, A. M., and after breakfiisting at the Hotel Pharoux, joined a party of friends who were about visiting Praya Grande, a delightful little village on the east side of the harbor and directly opposite the city of Pio. The preliminaries for our departure being arranged, we went to the ticket office at the steamboat pier, purchased tickets, fare two dumps, and seating ourselves on board the boat, were landed in thirty minutes at the south or lower landing of Praya Grande. On board the boat were several Bra- zilian ladies and gentlemen with their children and servants. After landing we strolled along the beach toward the northern part of the town, jiassing on the way orange groves and several beautiful cottages. From one of the latter issued the tones of a piano, which brought vividly to mind, " Home, sweet lionie.' ' Passing a cafe, we were hailed in English by a dap- per little gentlemen, who scraped and bowed like a French dancing-master. We entered his cafe, and after drinking a bottle of claret wine, engaged him as guide to accompany us during the remainder of the day. ^Vt the foot of a mountain, at the extreme northern part of the town, we entered, by invitation, the o-arden of a Frenchman, once a resident of the PURCHASING SYKUPS AND JELLIES. 71 United States, but of late years a sojourner in Brazil. Having passed through the garden, fragrant with the sweet odors of tropical flowers, we visited an orange grove attached thereto, containing upwards of a thousand orange, lime, lemon and pitanga trees, laden with ripe and luscious fruit, of which we were invited to partake freely, "without money and with- out price." That scriptural order was religiously obeyed ! On leaving the orange grove, we j^assed a wash and spring-house, in which was a lusty wench elbow deep in soap-suds, with a little yellow-skin lashed to her back, who rolled up his white eyes and grinned a ghastly smile as we jmssed by him. After leaving the cottage of the Frenchman, we stopped at a cafe and lunched on coftee, rolls and rancid butter. Pricethirty-eight cents each. Being ready to resume our peregrinations, we looked for our guide, and were informed by the proprietor of the cafe that he had vamosed, for the purpose of enjoying his accustomed after-dinner siesta. During the afternoon we visited St. Domingo, the southern suburb of Praya Grande, for the purpose of pur- chasing syrups and jellies, which we were told were manufactured by a confectioner at that place. We. strolled around until nearly night before we found the syrup and jelly establishment. Every one of whom we inquired seemed to put us on the wrong track. The jelly shop w^as kept by a French lady who had resided in New York and Philadelj^hia, and who spoke the English language fluently. We purchased about twenty dollars' worth of her com- modities at very reasonable prices. We now char- 72 A VISIT TO THE NAVY YAKD. tered a sail-boat, and after placing our goods on board, bade the Frencli lady adieu, and went on board the brig well satisfied with the first day spent in Praya Grande. Saturday, March 10. — I went on shore this morn- ing for the j^urpose of visiting the Brazilian Kavy Yard, convent of St. Benedict and other places of interest. At nine o'clock, A. M., accompanied by a 2^arty of friends, I passed up the Bua Direita, crossed the Rua Piscadore, entered the Navy Yard gate, and was soon in the midst of ship-carpenters, blacksmiths, boat-builders, armorers and machinists. The Navy Yard is of an oblong form and occupies about as much ground as the United States Navy Yard at Philadelphia. There is but one ship-house in the yard, where is being constructed a sloop of war which I learned had been on the stocks for three years. In the boat-shed they were building several boats, some of which were beautiful models. The building occupied by the machinists and black- smiths appeared to have been recently constructed, and the lathes and other machinery were imported from England, the manufacturer's name and resi- dence being stamjDcd on each article. In the black- smith's shop we made the acquaintance of two of the workmen who spoke the English language — one a Scotchman, and the other a German, both of whom had visited the United States. We next visited the shot and shell foundry, in which we saw several tons of si lot just turned out of the moulds. In the armory, the workmen were busily engaged manu- facturins: fire-arms for the use of the soldiers and marines of the Brazilian service. As we were about passing through the yard-gate on our return, my attention was arrested by two females seated on the ground, a few yards to the left, in front of a one- story stone building with grated doors and windows. On approaching them we learned by gestures that the building was a guard-house, and two of its inmates were their husbands. I looked through the grated door and saw several prisoners lying on a rough deal table, on which was. standing a jug of water, and by its side were two or three loaves of brown bread. This scene having convinced me that there were persons in this wicked world whose conditions were worse than my own, I turned from the prison and the females seated at the door, and ascending the hill of San Bempo by a crooked and roughly-paved walk, soon stood before the convent of St. Benedict. The St. Benedict is one of the oldest convents in Kio, having been erected in 17G1, as I learned from an inscription over the door of the main entrance. On entering the convent, we were accosted by a monk who beckoned us to proceed to the second floor, which we reached by a heavy, antiquated flight of stairs, and j)assing to the left through a long, dimly-lighted hall, entered the choir, where we met a servant dusting the seats occu23ied by the jolly fat friars. After examining the choir, the walls of which were nearly covered with scrij^tural paintings by the old masters, we went into the side galleries, from which we had a fine view of the in- terior ofthe church with its richly gilded and carved 74 A FUNERAL. mouldings, wliieli lined tlie walls and ceiling, and disj^layed vines loaded with grapes and mingled with flowers. Standing in niches in the walls were statues of tlie saints gorgeously dressed, and from the frescoed ceiling were suspended two massive silver lamps somewhat dusty with age. From the church we passed into the courtyard, one hundred and fifty feet square and covered with granite flags, under which repose the dead. From the convent windows we had a magnificent view of the harbor, the Island of Cobras, the city, its evergreen hills, the azure mountains in the distance, and the vast ravines furrowing their sides. From the convent we descended a zigzag path to the street, and after a walk of twenty minutes, reached the Hotel Pharoux. Casting my eyes in the direction of the Emperor's church, I noticed a hearse drawn by six plumed horses coming to a halt in front of it. Before I reached the church, the gold-laced coffin had been removed from the hearse and placed on a bier or altar in the middle of the floor, and the corpse ex- posed to view by opening the hinged lids. On each side of the cofiin were half a dozen priests and friars in black gowns trimmed with white, holding in their hands lighted wax candles four feet long and two inclies in diameter, the lower ends resting on the tile floor and the tops inclining slightly forward. There Avas also a long file of gentlemen dressed in black bearing blazing wax candles, on each side of the passage leading from the hearse to the bier, although it was broad daylight ! During the fu- neral ceremony, the ofliciating priest sprinkled holy HOLY WATER AND QUICKLIME. 75 water over the corpse several times from a silver instrument somewhat resembling a child's rattle; then shook over it a censer of burning incense, which diffused its odor through the church. The ceremony being over, the priests retired from the church, and the gentlemen in black extinguished their candles and placed them in a rack. Some left the church ; others removed the coffin from the bier and carried it into the receptacle for the dead, a court attached to the church. An excavation had been made in the wall, before which the coffin was placed and the lids again thrown open by the sex- ton. Holy water and quicklime were now thrown upon the corpse by the mourners. This part of the exercises being concluded, a requiem was chanted and the corpse left to be placed in the hole in the wall by the sexton and his black attendant. Plav- ing witnessed the commencement of the ceremony, curiosity prompted me to see the finale. Despite the surly looks of the sexton, I remained behind, with five or six other Americans, for the j)urpose of seeing the deceased placed in his narrow cell. The coffin, on being raised to the niche, was found too large for admission, but, with the aid of a crow- bar, it was quickly reduced in size by knocking in the head-board and pressing down the lid uj)on the breast of the corpse ! It was soon adjusted to the satisfaction of the sexton, and the entrance closed by a mason. Remained on shore during the night, and slept on the soft side of a billiard-table, all the beds in the hotel being double-banked. CHAPTER IV. Visit to the museum — Precious stones, medals, etc. — Observ- ance of the Sabbath in Rio — Washerwomen of the Campo Santa Anna — Visit to the Academy of Fine Arts — Paint- ings and sculpture — The Strangers' Burial-ground — Hot- corn women — American ladies bound for California — The Emperor's palace and garden — Visit to the latter — The Emperor's juvenile sports — Second night at the theatre — Dom Pedro II and Donna Therese — Slaves in Rio — Arrival of gold-dust from California — Arrival of the steam- ship Panama — News from home — California-bound vessels in Rio. Sunday, March 11. — This forenoon, accomj)anied by two friends, I visited the museum, situated on the eastern side of the Campo Santa Anna, which is open every Sunday from ten o'clock, A. M., until two o'clock in the afternoon — admission free. The museum was founded by King John VI, in the year 1821, and is a large two-story edifice, com- prising a main building and two wings. The entrance is guarded by soldiers, and there are attendants inside to see that no imjDroper conduct takes place. The museum contains eight commu- nicating rooms. Two are devoted exclusively to minerals of the empire, which are locked in taste- fully-arranged mahogany cases with glass doors. Among the minerals in the cases are ores of gold, silver, coj^per, carbonates, muriates, phosphates and (76) THE IMPERIAL MUSEUM. 77 sulpliurets of lead, ores of iron, jasper, agate, quartz, talc, mica, coral and limestone of various kinds. There are diamonds, and also crystals of white transparent quartz two or three inches in length. The most wonderful mineral is a crystalized quartz of a hexangular sha2:)e, fifteen inches in thickness and nearly three feet in length. Its weight is not less than two hundred pounds. The specimens of the animal kingdom belong chiefly to the empire, and consist of the gray, black and scaly ant-eater, leopard, wolf, paca, guinea-pig, besides a great variety of the monkey tribe. There is also a fine collection of sea-shells, bugs and but- terflies. The collection of birds is very large, mostly natives of Brazil. Among tliem may be mentioned the parrot, goney, joao, grande, turdus-regius, pavao of Matogosso, crax-galiata and anherma unicorne, bemtivi, torecans and gulls. The Bra- zilian rej)tiles are also largely rej^resented, the boa constrictor and coral-horned crotalus being the most prominent. Two live specimens of the former are at the entrance to the museum, on the first floor. The specimens of fish are all dried prepara- tions. In the room containing the Chinese and Indian curiosities is a cabinet of gold, silver, brass, bronze and copper coins and medals. Among the latter are likenesses of Marc Antony, Seneca, Cicero, Francis and Maria de Medicis, Cardinal Mazarin, Pope Innocent II, Henry IV of France, Marquis Cornwallis, George IV, Louis XVI, Maria An- toinette, Anne of Austria, Charles III of Spain, 7o SUNDAY IN EIO DE JANEIRO. Ferdinand VII, Lord Howe, and many other noted personages. In one of the rooms is the most j)erfect specimen of an Egyptian mummy ever ex- hibited. On my return from the museum, I noticed that nearly all the stores and shops were open, and business was being transacted the same as on any other day of the week. Carpenters and cabinet- makers were shoving the plane and saw, and the sons of St. Crispin were plying the thread and bristle as briskly as ever. The inhabitants of Rio do not keep the Sabbath more holy than any other day of the week. They generally attend mass in the morning, and act as fancy dictates during the remainder of the day. Understanding that there was to be a bull-fight in the Campo Santa Anna in the afternoon, I re- paired thither for the purpose of witnessing it, but for some unexplained reason it did not take place. At the fountain in the Campo Santa Anna were a score of black wenches doing their week's washing, and the way they made the soap-suds and shirt- buttons fly was a caution to washing-machines I Monday, March 12. — During the forenoon I yisited the Academy of Fine Arts, a large two- storied stone edifice, to which visitors are admitted free. On the first floor are six ordinary sized rooms, which lead out of a spacious hall running lengthwise of the building. The walls of three of the rooms are covered from floor to ceiling with j^aintings, most of which are portraits of distin- guished jDersons and citizens. There are several ACADEMY OF FINE ARTS, ETC. 79 scriptural paintings by eminent artists. An equestrian picture of Dom Pedro II, the present Emperor of Brazil, and a full-length jiortrait of one of the Empress's maids of honor are the most artistic and beautiful specimens of modern oil ]oainting I have ever seen. Two of the re- maining; three rooms on the first floor contain statuary in marble and plaster, none of which deserve particular notice. On the second floor I gained admission to two rooms, in one of which were mahogany cases with glass lids, containing the dies and medals of the empire. The other was hung with portraits of monks, and friars, and scriptural j^aintings, and had the appearance of being used as a studio, as I noticed several un- finished pictures on easels around the room. The unfinished pictures were all copies, and several compared favorably with the originals. Having examined everything worthy of notice, I passed the guard stationed at the door, and crossing Thea- tre Square, soon entered the Kua de Ouvidor, which I followed down to the Rua Direita, crossed the palace square, and reached the Hotel Pharoux, where I dined. In the afternoon a 'pavij was made up, myself being one of the number, to visit the Strangers' Burial-ground, and the Emperor's Garden at St. Christoval. Taking seats in the St. Christoval omnibus, in about thirtv minutes we were set down near the entrance to the Strangers' Burial-ground, which is situated on the southern declivity of a hill facing an arm of the bay of Bio de Janeiro. so ONE OF job's COMFORTEES. The yard is inclosed by a substantial stone wall about ten feet liigli, and the principal entrance is through a ponderous iron gate, which was locked. Our guide soon found the sexton, and we were admitted. After sauntering about for an hour, viewing the tombstones and monuments of those who had fallen victims to disease in a foreign land, we j^assed out of the yard, and engaging a boat on the beach, were soon landed at St. Christoval. On stepj^ing from the boat, the first object that met my eye was an old negro woman seated on the ground near a small fire roasting Indian corn. I purchased an ear, piping hot, and while eating it my thoughts reverted to Philadelphia and her hot-corn vendors. Passing along a little further, w^e met an American lady and gentleman returning from the Emperor's Garden. After a hearty shake of the hand all around, the lady informed us that herself and hus- band w^ere jiassengers on board the shij) Architect^ from New Orleans bound for San Francisco. She also informed us that there were five other lady passengers on board the Architect, two of wdiom had lost their husbands by cholera since their de- parture from New Orleans. I requested her to console the widows with the fact that they w^ere bound for a country where wives were scarce and husbands plenty. I have no positive proof that my message was delivered ; but I had the consolation of knowing that, as one of Job's comforters, I did my duty. Each bidding the other adieu, and hoj^ing to meet again in California, we parted, the lady and gentlemen returning to the city, and we THE EMPEEOR's GARDEN. 81' continuing our walk toward tlie garden. "We soon readied the palace yard or square, in which were lounging fifteen or twenty of the Emperor's guards in undress uniform. The palace originally con- sisted of a main building and two wings. The main building has recently been razed to the ground for the purpose of erecting on its site another of a different style of architecture, which, when com- pleted, will be an imposing stone structure, four stories high with a tile roof. The garden attached to the palace is the most beautiful in the vicinity of Rio, and is about five miles in circumference. Near the palace is a small lake, on the bosom of which the Emperor, wdien a flaxen-haired urchin, took his first nautical lessons, and the hull of his favorite yacht is still to be seen at the east end of the lake, high and drj on (e7^ra Jlrma. Through the centre of the garden runs a stream of water over which is erected an aqueduct of solid masonry supported by innumerable arches and piers. In the garden are beautifully graveled walks which cross each other at right angles, and in many places are shaded on either side by rows of bamboos, whose tops unite and form magnificent bowers. It also contains a great variety of fruit- trees and plants, among which are \\\q pintanga, cardo, maracaja, guava, banana, culainbota, cocoa, mango, lemon, lime, caja, breadfruit, papaw arba- cate, aresa, fruto de conte, genejoa, sapucaia, fig, orange, palm, espinatree, legume, coffee, tea, and many plants both rare and curious, natives of the East Indies. 82 THE EMPEEOE IN 1849. There was also a great variety of roses in full bloom, which diffused a grateful fragrance through the garden. As night was fast ajDproaching, we passed through the eastern gate and soon reached the road leading to the city. The omnibus not having arrived, we walked two miles before it over- took us, then getting on board, Jehu plied his whip to the mules in a lively manner, and we were soon rattling over the pavements of the city. After supper, four of our j^arty, myself among the num- ber, engaged a private box at the theatre, and took our seats early for the purpose of witnessing the entree into the royal box of their Majesties the Emperor and EmjDress of Brazil. The Emperor's box is on the same floor as the second tier of boxes, and directly in front of the stage. It extends from the floor of the second tier to the proscenium, and has a frontage of about fifteen feet. In front was a damask curtain looped up on each side, and the box was surmounted by the Brazilian coat-of-arms handsomely gilded. In the box were arranged arm-chairs for the use of the Emj)eror, Empress and suite. At a quarter before nine o'clock, the Emperor, Empress, officers of the imperial house- hold and maids of honor made their appearance, the entire audience rising and remaining in that 23osition until the imj)erial family were seated. The EmjDcror is an intelligent, modest-looking young man, twenty-four years of age, fully six feet high, with light-brown hair and whiskers, blue eyes and florid complexion. He was dressed in a plain black suit, with no other insignia of royalty TWENTY-SEVEN YEAES LATER. 83 than a star or rosette on his left breast. He is greatly beloved by his subjects, and his constant endeavors to ameliorate their condition have gained for him the encomiums of the civilized Avorld. I am neither a prophet nor the son of a prophet, but I j^redict that Dom Pedro II will make a mark on the finger-board of the nineteenth century not easily effaced. The Empress is rather below the medium size, and looks somewhat older than her liege lord. Her eyes are blue and complexion light ; hair light auburn, curling beautifully around her neck and falling in graceful ringlets on her shoulders. Her nose is large, which somewhat mars her features. When walking she inclines slightly forward. She wore a black satin dress with sleeves scarcely extending to the elbows, the edges of which, as well as the neck, were trimmed with lace edging. She wore neither rings nor bracelets, and was one of the most demo- cratic specimens of feminine royalty I ever expect to see. The toilets of her maids of honor were gotten uj) more elaborately. Having become weary of gazing on royalty and a Portuguese pantomime, I left the theatre at eleven o'clock, P. M., and en- gaged lodgings for the night at the Hotel Pharoux. \_Twenty-seven years later. After the lapse of more than a quarter of a century since the foregoing was written, I have had the pleasure of again seeing the Emperor and Empress of Brazil (this time during the Centennial year in my own country), and I am happy to say that my early imj)ressions and predictions have been fully verified. By his unos- £4 VIVE LA DOM PEDEO II. tentatious and gentlemanly demeanor during Lis brief sojourn in tlie United States, Dom Pedro II has won "golden opinions" from all classes of men — snobs excepted ! His kindness to the California- bound passengers while in Rio will ever be held in grateful remembrance by the author of this humble tribute to a great and good man. " The rauk is but the guinea's stamp, The man's the gold for a' that." Vive la Dom Pedro II!~\ Tuesday, March 13. — I went on board the Os- ceola early this morning, and found the sailors busily engaged breaking out the hold preparatory to receiving water on board. I discovered among the cargo two barrels of pilot-bread belonging to myself with their heads stove in. After coopering the bread barrels I went below and spent the re- mainder of the day writing to friends in the United States. I also wrote a communication for the Keiv Yorh Herald over the signature of " S. Curtis " — my Christian name — giving a brief history of our voyage to this port, treatment of the passengers, etc., in which I Avent for the owners and cajitain of the Osceola in a lively manner, and concluded by giving a list of the California passenger vessels lying in the harbor of Kio. The following passenger vessels from the United States bound for California, have put into this port for provisions and water, during the past three months : From New York. Ships — Sutton, 55 days; From a Photo taken in Philadelphia, 1876. DOM PEDRO II., KMI'EROR OF BRAZIL. U. S. VESSELS AT EIO. 87 Christoval Colon, 51 clays; South Carolina, 39 days; Tarolinta, 50 days ; William Ivey, 42 days ; Pacificy 42 days ; Apollo, 53 days. Barks — Josephine, 45 days ; Exp)ress, 52 days ; Harriet Newell, 55 days ; Cordelia, 39 days ; Peytona, 54 days. Brigs — Mary Stuart, 42 days ; Eliza, 43 days. Schooners — Roe, 39 days ; Olivia, 48 days ; George Emory, 43 days ; Joseph Newell, 40 days ; Laura Virginia, 38 days ; William G. Hachstaff, 39 days. From Boston. Ship — Capitol, 43 days. Barks — Oxford, 47 days; Maria, 51 days; Elvira, 47 days. Schooner — Anonyma, 38 days. From Bahimore. Ship — Jane Barker, 42 days. Schooner — Eclipse, 47 days. From New Orleans. Ship — A^^chitect, 45 days. From Norfolk, Va. Brig — Joh7i Petty, 50 days. From New London, Conn. Ship — Mentor, 38 days. From New Haven, Conn. Schooner — Mojitague, 40 days. Wednesday, March 14. — During the forenoon I wrote several letters for the brig's cook and steward. A part of tlie brig's stores came on board this morn- ing, which on examination proved to be of an in- ferior quality. The hams and bologna sausages were tainted and mouldy. At eleven o'clock, A. M., the government water-tank came alongside, and we soon filled our Avater-casks, barrels and buckets with fresh water, which I hope will last until we reach San Francisco. A Russian bark, bound for St. Petersburg, arrived in this port to-day direct from California 88 BAKEELS OF GOLD-DUST. and reports eight barrels of gold-dust on board, taken from the placers of the Sacramento. The intelligence received by the bark corroborates all previous accounts in relation to the extent and rich- ness of the California gold-mines. All hands are highly elated, and every man expects soon to be- come a millionaire. The Brazilians have also been attacked with the gold fever, and there are now in this i>ort several vessels up for San Francisco. Fare 1250. After dinner I went on shore and deposited my letters in the letter-bag of a vessel which will sail for New York to-morrow. AVhile on shore I saw a negro who was afflicted with the elephantiasis, one of the most loathsome diseases imaginable, but quite common in this country. His left leg was swollen to nearly the size of his body, and from the knee downward, protruded excrescences as large as English walnuts. The skin of the diseased limb appeared rough and scaly, and several of the toes had dropped off the foot. I saw others afflicted with this disease who had lost their lips and noses. At sundown I purchased two bottles of wine for medicinal purposes and a handkerchief full of oranges, and went on board the brig. Thursday, March 15. — Ship-carpenters and sail- makers have been on board to-day, caulking the deck and repairing the old sails. The mechanics here are mostly slaves, consequently they do not work very rapidly. A Yankee mechanic would perform as much labor in one day as two slaves in the same length of time. The slaves in this city THE SLAVES IN EIO. 89 appear to be well treated and seem happy. I asked several if they would like to return to Africa. Their reply was: "Me no like to go hack to Africa among the nigger thieves !^^ The industrious slaves here, as in the United States, frequently save suf- ficient money to purchase their freedom. The free negroes in Kio wear shoes; the slaves invariably go barefooted. I shaved myself to-day for the first time in two months, and, if my looking-glass does not deceive me, I look one hundred per cent, better than I did before performing the tonsorial operation. Before I applied the razor to my face it would have j^uzzled a physiognomist to determine which I resembled most, a man or a monkey. In the early part of this week I purchased a shot-gun, which I left with Messrs. Garrett & Co., who are furnishing the sea-stores for the Osceola, and they promised to obtain a permit from the cus- tom-house and send it off with the stores this morn- ing. The stores were sent on board the brig but the gun did not accompany them. I engaged a boat from along-side the brig and went ashore to ascertain what had become of my gun. Mr. Garrett informed me that when the stores were sent on board the gun was forgotten, which he regretted very much, and would send it on board the next morning. Expecting to sail on the following day, I concluded to run the risk of carrying the gun on board myself. I accordingly placed it on my shoulder, walked down to the boat, was soon on DO AJUIIVAL OF THE STEAMSHIP PANAMA, board the brig and bad the gun safely de^wsited under my mattress. Friday, March 16. — It has been raining inces- santly during the greater part of last night and to- day. During the storm last night two of our sailors deserted from the brig, bag and baggage. Our Captain is very un23opular with the crew, as well as with the passengers, and I am fearful he will not be able to ship men in this port to fill the vacancies occasioned by the discharges and desertions from the brig. We are now short two mates and three men before the mast. The steerage i:)assengers have learned that their table cannot be constructed unless they double- bank the second tier of berths and stow the lower tier with trunks and other baggage, in order to clear a space amidships for that purpose. The passengers have all agreed to this arrangement, and to-morrow the table will be rigged uj"). At one o'clock, P. ]M., the steamship Panama^ Lieutenant-Commanding Porter, twenty-six days from New York, bound for San Francisco, jxit into this port for the purpose of taking on board coal, water and j^rovisions. The Panama is one of the line of Pacific Mail Steamers belonging to Howland & Aspinwall of New York, and on her arrival in the Pacific will ply between Panama and the mouth of the Columbia lliver, touching at Aca- pulco, Mazatlan, San Francisco and intermediate ports. By the Panama we received New York papers of the 17tli of February, being nearly a month later than previous accounts from the United NEWS FEOM HOME. 91 States. The paj^ers received were a New York Herald and a Police Gazette^ which after going the round of the brig were pretty thoroughly used up. Caiotain Fairfowl came on board about eight o'clock, P. ]M., very much fatigued I Saturday, Alarch 17. — I assisted in the steerage to-day, breaking out trunks and other baggage and arranging the table. On examination we find that only twenty-six persons can be seated at the table at the same time; therefore, first come first served will be the order of exercises hereafter. We have engaged one of the j)assengers to act in the ca2:>acity of stew- ard during the remainder of the voyage, for which we agree to pay him one dollar each on our arrival at San Francisco. We have inaugurated our new cook and new galley. The former answers our expectations, but the latter has been tried and found wanting. The boilers are too long. They run through the plate or top of the galley so far that there is not sufficient space for fuel, and unless this defect is remedied we shall be comj)elled to eat badly-cooked food until we reach San Francisco. The Captain has succeeded to-day in shipping a first and second mate and one man before the mast which will enable us to put to sea to-morroAV. The following California-bound vessels, having taken on board water and provisions, sailed to-day : ships, Capitol and Jane Barker; brig John Petty, and schooner Laura Virginia. CHAPTEK V. Departure from Rio — Vessels bound for El Dorado — Auction sale at sea — A pamjjcro — Its cousoqucuccs — Putting a little whisky -vvliere it would do the most good — Hail-storm — Enfile for a monkey — IMelee between a passenger and the steward — Sehool of porpoises — Sudden change in the at- mosphere — Its effects — All hands on an allowance of water — Horrors of a passage around Cape Horn subsiding — All- Fools' Day — "The Perseverance Mining Company" — Ar- ticles of agreement. /Sand a I/, JIarch 18. — At nine o'clock, A. M., we hove up anchor, got under way and stood out of the hai'bor with a fair hut light hrcczc. As Ave passed Fort Santa Cruz, we were hailed hy the sentinel for the pass-word, which being given by the Captain, we glided along past the Sugar-Loaf, Kazor Island, and were soon outside ploughing along toward our port of destination. Toward night-fall I went on deck for the purpose of bid- dins; farewell to the liilaced us 200 miles nearer to San Fran- cisco. The two mates shi]iped in Rio have ah'oady become dissatisfied with the Captain, in consequence of his interference with their duty while in charge of the deck. I predict that both will be relieved from duty before we arrive in California. At three o'clock, P. JM., the western horizon became suddenly overcast with black clouds, and every indication of a pampero was visible. Stud- A PAMPEIIO. 95 ding-sails were accordingly taken in, royals and top- gallant-sails furled, top-sails double reefed, the spanker brailed up and everything made ready for the approaching gale, which was soon upon us in all its fury. The rain descended in torrents, and the wind burst upon us with such violence that every rag of canvas was taken off the brig and she was hove to under bare poles, in which condition she remained during the night. The gale was the most severe that we have encountered during the jias- sage, and I have no anxiety to witness another of the same sort. The brig shij^ped heavy seas during the night, which completely deluged the cabins. The steerage was dry, but such another waltzing of trunks and boxes, crashing of crockery and jingling of tin pans, pots and spoons, I never before heard. Passengers, as well as baggage and dishes, were in commotion. Some of the former were gliding about clothed in a single garment; others in a state of nudity, genuine model artists, looking as ghastly as ghosts and trembling with fear. I remained in my berth, but as I could not sleep in consequence of the constant rolling and pitching of the brig, consoled myself by occasionally ^^utting a little whisky where ' I thought it would do the most good. Distance sailed, 179 miles. Lat. 30° 02'. Therm, at M. 78°. Thursday, 3Iarch 22. — At daylight this morning the storm having somewhat abated, the storm stay- sail was set and the brig put before the wind. Other sails were set during the forenoon, but owing to the heavy sea, we have made very little progress. The wind at the present writing is blowing very 90 A MONKEY IN PERIL. fresh and the waves ai-c running mountain-high. During the rough weather hist night the steer- age gaUey broke loose from its fastenings, and we have had great difllcuUy in phicing it in its former position, in consequence of the rolling and 23itching of the brig. A sail was reported on our lee bow this morning, bound nortlnvard. Distance sailed, 30 miles. Lat. 30° 28'. Therm, at M. 70°. Friday, March 23. — Head-winds and cross-seas during the hist twenty-four hours have prevented our making nuicli progress toward our port of desti- nation. The pampero has been succeeded by the equinoctial storm, and we may be detained in these latitudes several days by adverse winds. By way of variety, we were treated this forenoon to an old- fashioned hail-storm. This morning, soon after the eooiv had kindled a lire in the galley, we shipped a sea forward which extino-uished it so effectuallv that it could not be rekindled for several hours. This caused a late breakfast and sour looks among the passengers. While in Kio, two of our passengers purchased a monkey in copartnerslii]"*, and his deviltry has kept them constantly at loggerheads Avith the Cap- tain and mates. This morning his nlonkeyship took possession of the nail locker, and the mate threatened him with decapitation should he visit it again. This sanguinary threat having reached the ears of his owners, they informed the mate that they would like to be present when the o^K'^ratioii was performed ! Distance sailed, Jive miles! Lat. 30° 23'. Therm, at M. 7o°. A SHARK, NOT CAUGHT. 97 Saturday^ 3Iarc]b 24. — At two o'clock this morn- ing the wind hauled around to the north, which has enabled us to steer our course. The sea to-day has been smoother and the brig has rolled less. We are off the mouth of the Kiver La Plata, and may exjiect at any moment to be visited by another This afternoon the owners of the monkey came to the conclusion that their pet was neither as agreeable a companion nor as ^^rofitable an invest- ment as they first imagined, therefore they put him \\\) at raffle, and he was Avon by the first mate. Dis- tance sailed, 154 miles. Lat. 32° 13'. Therm, at M. 74°. Sunday f Ilarch 25. — Tlie wind to-day has been light and baffling, and the brig has headed as many different ways as there are points of the comjoass. The weather is becoming gradually cooler, and the breezes are bracinc; and inviooratin"-. Lar2;e flocks of gulls have been flying around the brig all day. This afternoon a large shark, a regular man- eater, was observed following the brig at the dis- tance of about twenty yards, which caused a lively time on board. The shark-hook not being at hand,- a mackerel-hook baited with pork was attached to a piece of marline and thrown overboard. His shark- ship, after swimming around the bait several times, approached it cautiously and turning quickly on his side swallowed the hook with a yard of the line and disappeared beneath the water. Considerable excitement was occasioned this after- noon m consequence of a melee between one of the 98 MAIN-EOYAL YARD CAEEIED AWAY. steerage passengers, a Philaclelpliia b'lio}^ and the second steward. The former accused the hitter of mixing the duff with water from the bathing-tub, which he said was "A lie, a d infernal lie, Upon liis sovil a lie !" This somewbat excited the b'hoy's ire, and he gave the steward a blow alongside his visage which caused him to see stars at midday. Distance sailed, 139 miles. Lat. 34° 08'. Therm, at M. 68°. Monday, March 26. — I went on deck at seven o'clock, A. M., and found the brig gliding briskly along with all drawing sails set. Since yester- day, the water has changed from a dark green to a light blue color, but whether caused by the com- mingling of the water of the Kio de la Plata or other causes, I am unable to state. This forenoon, while below writing, I heard a tremendous huzzaing on deck, and hurrying U]) I saw a short distance ahead of the brig a school of porpoises numbering several hundred, puffing, blowing, jumping, skip- ping and performing all manner of gymnastics. After having amused us half an hour with their feats of agility, they made their exit, playing leap- frog over each otlier's backs. At one o'clock this afternoon the brig was struck by a flaw of wind, which carried away her main- royal yard. The broken yard was immediately sent down and a new one rigged and sent up. A broken spar floated past us to-day, which had probably been lost by a vessel off Cape Horn. We have ALL HANDS ON ALLOWANCE OF WATEPw 99 to-daj seen five vessels bound northward. Distance sailed, 115 miles. Lat. 35° 43'. Therm, at M. 67°. Tuesday, March 27. — During to-day we have been surrounded by a thick fog, and the weather has been quite chilly. Flannel shirts and drawers, cloth 2:>ants and coats, which have been stowed away during the past forty days, made their apj)earance on deck this morning, and judging from my own personal experience, they were very acceptable. During the morning we had a fair but light breeze, which died away at one o'clock, and this afternoon the brig has been rolling and the sails flapping against the masts. An albatross, measuring probably ten feet across its wings, has accompanied us all day, occasionally resting on the surface of the water for a few moments. The Captain being in a very bad humor with him- self this afternoon, and wishing to curdle the milk of human kindness in the breasts of others, has put all hands on an allowance of water. Distance sailed, 189 miles. Lat. 38° 44'. Therm, at M. 63°. Wednesday, March 28. — The wind to-day has been blowing fresh from S. S. W., dead ahead, and the weather has been uncomfortably cold, the thermome- ter having fallen twenty degrees during the past four days. If the mercury in the thermometer continues to fall in this ratio, it will be frozen in the bulb before we reach Cape Horn. Those of the passen- gers who did not break out their flannels yesterday, have to-day donned their red shirts and California miningjboots. Owing to a strong head-wind the brig has rolled worse and shipped heavier seas to- 100 PREPARING FOR CAPE HORN. day than on any previous occasion during tlie pas- sage, wliicli lias kept both 2'>assengers and baggage constantly rolling and sliding about. Several of the passengers have been amusing themselves by shooting gulls, albatross and other sea-birds which have been hovering around the brig throughout the day. All the birds killed fell overboard, not one was saved. Distance sailed, 94 miles. Lat. 40° 12'. Therm, at M. 55°. Tliursday, Ilarch 29. — The wind has been nearly dead ahead all day, Avliich has kej^t the brig six or seven points off her course. The sea is smoother than it has been for several days past, but the weather is quite winterish. The crew has been engaged to-day prej^aring the brig for Cape Horn. The foretop-gallant-mast was condemned and sent down, and a new spar sent up in its place. Sails split and torn since leaving Kio have been repaired, and everything made ready for the coming rough weather. A hook and line baited with jiork, was made fast to the stern-boat this morning for the purpose of catching albatross. About ten o'clock, A. M., one was hooked, but broke loose before the line could be hauled in. This afternoon, a school of whales, numbering forty or fifty, was discovered on our weather-quarter, distant about three miles. They accompanied us until sundown, at about the same relative distance as when first discovered. Distance sailed, ^5 miles. Lat. 39° 29'. Therm, at M. 53°. Friday, 3Iarch 30. — Throughout to-day we have been favored with a fair wind, and the weather is NEW ENGLAND WEATHER. 101 miicli milder. During the past four clays, I have been eating salt pork and hard-tack with a relish that would astonish both Jews and Gentiles. If I carry my present apj^etite to California, it will be a very expensive companion, with flour at $60 a barrel and beefsteak at $1 a pound ! This afternoon, the passengers have been gathered about the deck in knots amusing themselves by playing cards, dominoes, backgammon and checkers. A humpbacked whale made his appearance this morning within 100 yards of the brig, and after blowing several times, shook the spray from his tail and disappeared. Distance sailed, 29 miles. Lat. 39° 34'. Therm, at M. dG"". Saturday, March 31. — The wind freshened grad- ually during the night, and throughout to-day has been blowing an eight-knot breeze, which is rapidly hastening us into colder weather. The weather during the j^ast week has been very much like that of New England in the month of October — cold, but bracing and invigorating. At the commencement of the voyage, the thoughts of doubling Cape Horn in the winter caused " Each particular hair to stand on end, Like quills upon the fretful porcupine ;" but the nearer I approach it, the less danger I apjorehend in doubling it. We are now within 800 miles of Cape Horn, and the sea is as smooth as it was off the Cape de Verde Islands. Should the sea remain smooth and the wind con- tinue in the same quarter as now during the next 102 all-fools' day. eight days, we shall have passed Cape Horn and reached the plncid ^vaters of the Pacific. Distance sailed, 128 miles. Lat. 41° 13'. Therm, at M. 54°. Sunday, Apinl 1. — Throughout last night, and up to meridian to-day, the wind has been light and baffling. At one o'clock, P. M., the barometer fell suddenly, and strong indications of a storm were observable, which caused the Captain to shorten sail forthwith. The men had scarcely laid down from aloft before we were struck by a white squall, which brought the brig down to her bearings and caused the spars and rigging to creak piteously. The gale soon subsided, and we were again gliding briskly over a smooth sea. The steerage steward informed the j^assengers this morning that they w^ere to have "fritters" for dinner, which caused them to eat a light breakfast and wait impatiently for the anxiously wished-for meal. At half-past twelve o'clock, the steward took his accustomed place at the steerage hatch, and 2)lacing his arms akimbo, cried out at the top of his voice : " Steerage passengers will please lay below and get their dinner !" This summons had scarcely ceased echoing through the rigging, before two- thirds of the mess were below" gazing uj^on an empty table. After the rattling of boots on the ladder had ceased, the steward thrust his phiz below the hatch and asked the steerage gents if they were aware that the first day of April had arrived. Some relished the joke, others preferred " fritters ;" but all acknowledged themselves sold. The stew- ard, however, soon set matters to rights by pro- PERSEVERANCE MINING COMPANY. 103 viding each person with a panful of " fritters " well slicked over with molasses. Distance sailed, 102 miles. Lat. 42° 30'. Therm, at M. 56°. Monday, April 2. — I Avent on deck at seven o'clock this mornincf, and found the bris: steerins: her course w^itli yards square and studding-sails set below and aloft. The weather, strange to say, in- stead of growing colder as we approach Cape Horn, is gradually becoming milder. The thermometer has risen four degrees during the past three days. This afternoon the wind has been blowing very fresh, and the sea has been rougher than usual, which has caused the brig to roll heavily and ship frequent seas. The brothers Kelly and myself have to-day joined the " Perseverance Mining Company," which increases its membership to seven persons. I think Ave are noAV as well prepared for mining as any company bound for El Dorado. The joint stock of the company consists of twelve months' provisions, three tents, two batteaux, Avith mining implements of all descriptions and of the best quality. The following are the articles of agree- ment : — " KnoAV all men by these presents, that the un- dersigned have associated themselves together under the name and title of the ' PERSEVERAx^^CE Mining Company,' for the purpose of transacting business in California, and have mutually agreed upon and adopted the following rules and regulations, by which they mutually pledge themselves to be governed : 10-1 ARTICLES OF AGREEMENT. "Article I. It is agreed tliat there sliall be one of the company chosen, by a majority of its mem- bers, who shall be styled Director, and who shall perform the duties of President. " Art. II. It is agreed that one other member shall be chosen as Treasurer of the company, who shall have in charge all moneys and j)roperty of the company. "Art. III. It is also agreed that there shall be one other member chosen as Secretary of the com- pany, who shall keep the books and accounts of the same. "Art. IV. It is agreed that the foregoing officers shall account to the company, at all times when requested to do so, and shall also be liable to re- moval at any time by a majority of said company. "Art. V. It is agreed that each member of the company shall bear his own expenses until he arrives in California. "Art. YI. It is agreed that each member shall contribute an equal proportion of the amount re- quired to increase the stock of mining implements, provisions, etc., for the conducting of business on their arrival in California, which shall belong to the joint stock of the company. "Art. VII. It is agreed that any member who sliall withdraw from the company, after his arrival in California, shall receive only such j^ortion of the joint stock as may be awarded to him by a vote of two-thirds of the members of said company, and he shall also receive his share of accrued profits at the time of withdrawal. INTOXICATING BEVEEAGES INTEEDICTED. 105 "Art. VIII. It is agreed that in case of the death of any member of this company, the survivors shall forward to his legal representatives his share of the 2^rofits at the time of his decease, with a full and complete statement of the affairs of the company, attested by the officers thereof. "Art. IX. It is agreed that the company shall pursue such business in California, or elsewhere, as shall be agreed upon by a majority of its members, and that the expenses of the company shall be mutually borne and the profits equally divided among them. "Art. X. It is agreed, and we hereby pledge ourselves, to support and protect each other in case of emergency and sickness, and in all cases to stand by each other as a band of brothers. "Art. XI. Inasmuch as the evil tendency of the use of intoxicating beverages in promoting disturb- ances, and in rendering persons unfit for business, and their liability to injure health, being well un- derstood, it is hereby agreed that from and after our arrival in California, no member of this com- pany shall use intoxicating liquors of any kind, except in case of urgent necessity. "Art. XII. It is agreed that in case any mem- ber shall intentionally violate either of the forego- ing articles, or hereafter refuse to be governed by them, he shall, after receiving his share of the joint stock and profits of the company, be expelled there- from. "Art. XIII. It is agreed that this company shall not be increased beyond the number of seven, un- 106 OFFICERS OF THE COMPANY. less such addition be sanctioned by a unanimous vote. "Akt. XIV. It is also agreed that all vacancies that shall occur by death, expulsion or resignation, shall be filled by persons receiving the unanimous vote of the company. "Art. XY. It is furthermore agreed that in all matters relating to the company, the voice of its members shall be ascertained by ballot. " John Heyberger, " Samuel C. Upham, " William Fetter, " Amos S. Kelly, " Charles S. Kelly, " George Wilson, "Thomas S. Berger." The officers of "The Perseverance Mining Company" are: John Heyberger, PresH. Wm. Fetter, Trcas. Samuel C. Upham, Secretary. Distance sailed, 112 miles. Lat. 43° 17'. Therm, at M. o9°. [" The Perseverance Mining Company," like many others formed en route to the new El Dorado by sea and land, "vanished into thin air" soon after the arrival of its members in California. George Wilson, of San Francisco, Charles S. Kelly and S. C. Upham, both -residents of Philadelphia, are the only members of the above company known to be living at this time.] CHAPTER VI. Another gale — Salt-water coffee — Cabin stove broken — An- other hail-storm — Terra del Fuego — Staten Laud by moon- light — Double Staten Land — Death of Jocko, the sailors' pet — Furious gale off Cape Horn — The cook's galley cap- sized — Cabin passengers on a jamboree — Another gale — Drifting about in the region of icebergs — Raw pork and hard-tack — Fresh provisions all gone — Novel method of obtaining fresh grub at sea — Double Cape Horn — Boxing the compass — Passengers volunteer to stand watch — Capture of an albatross. Tuesday, April 3. — Throughout to-day the brig has been skimming along at the rate of seven knots an hour. We are within 600 miles of Cape Horn, and if we are blessed with a fair wind during the next five days, the Osceola will in all probability be pointing her head toward the north pole. This afternoon a school of porpoises played around us for several hours. The harpoon was made ready, and after several ineffectual attempts, one was finally struck, but in endeavoring to hoist him on board, the har- poon drew out and he was soon run down and devoured by his fishmates. Distance sailed, 168 miles. Lat. 45° 32'. Therm, at M. 61°. Wednesday, Apinl 4. — At sundown last night the wind commenced blowing very fresh, and before midnight it increased to a gale, which raged with 7 (107) 108 SALT-WATER COFFEE. sucli faiy tlint the brig was hove to, and remained in tliat jwsition until da3'light this morning. Heavy head-seas have been running during the day, and the brig has been constantly plunging her head under water and ship^^ing seas, which have completely del- uged the forecastle and turned everything in that quarter topsy-turvy. The slush-barrel broke loose and jumped out of the bow-port, and a barrel of pork and the grindstone were about to follow suit, when they were secured by the cook and second mate. This morning, the cook not having the fear of a rope's end before his eyes, treated the cabin passen- gers to a pot of salt-water coffee. The circumstance being reported to the Captain, he ordered the knight of the frying-pan and ladle and his assistant aft, and administered to each a quart of salt-water, which they drank with a bad relish, judging from the contortions of their physiognomies. AVe are to-day about 40 miles distant from the eastern point of Cape Blanco, on the coast of Pata- gonia. During the jiast twenty-four hours the weather has been gradually growing colder, the thermometer having fallen ten degrees. Distance sailed, 115 miles. Lat. 47° 24'. Therm, at M. 51°. Tluu'sday, April 5. — Last night the wind headed us off our course five or six points, but this fore- noon it hauled around fair again and since meridian we have been steering our course with studding-sails set below and aloft. The heavy seas of yesterday have strained the brig and caused a slight leak for- ward. The sea has been quite smooth to-day and the weather cool but pleasant. A land-bird, very BROKEN STOVES AND COLD WEATHER. 109 closely resembling a sparrow, flew on board this morning, and after fluttering about the deck and rigging a few moments took his departure over the lee-bow and was soon out of sight. A mast floated j)ast us this afternoon. It had probably been lost by some vessel off Cape Horn. Distance sailed, 134 miles. Lat. 49° 17'. Therm, at M. 50°. Friday, April 6. — During last night and the greater part of to-day we have been heading our course, but owing to cross-seas have made but little progress. The weather is so cold that I have re- mained in my bunk nearly all the afternoon. Through the negligence of the Captain the cabin stoves have been broken, consequently the passen- gers have no fires to warm themselves by, which has caused unpleasant feelings. The steerage is at present the most comfortable part of the brig, and it is filled during the day with cabin passengers, some remaining during the night, preferring to sleep on chests rather than occupy their berths in the cabin. We are to-day passing between the Falkland Islands and the coast of Patagonia, the former being about 40 miles distant. Distance sailed, 96 miles. Lat. 51° 39'. Therm, at M. 47°. Saturday, April 7. — In the early j^art of last night we were treated to a specimen of Cape Horn weather in the shape of a hail-storm, which lasted about thirty minutes, during which time hail-stones, from the size of a pea to that of a marble, fell in abundance. After the storm had ceased, the wind freshened, and before ten o'clock it blew a 110 STATEN LAND BY MOONLIGHT. furious gale, before wliicli we were compelled to scud all night. The brig shipped seas constantly during the night, some of Avhich covered the deck to the depth of three feet, carrying into the lee scuppers everything movable. The deck over my berth leaked like a sieve, and every time the brig ship^^ed a sea I received a shower-bath gratis. Owing to head-winds and cross-seas, the brig has been laboring heavily all day — not making more than three knots an hour, and continually shipping seas. The moon changes to-day, and I hope the wind will follow suit and enable us to pass around Staten Land and double Cape Horn. At sundown we made Cape St. Diego, the south-eastern point of Terra del Fuego, distant about 25 miles. Dis- tance sailed, 143 miles. Lat. 53° 46'. Therm. at M. 44°. Sunday, April 8. — Last night at midnight I went on deck for the purpose of seeing Staten Land. By the aid of the moon, which was somewhat obscured by clouds, I could discern the mountains about 6 miles distant towering to the clouds, their tops covered with 23erj)etual snow. Staten Land — rock would be the better word — is a mass of barren rocks GO miles long by 15 miles wide. The highest peaks rise several thousand feet above the level of the ocean, and are continually covered with snow, 2:)resenting to the mariner a prospect as cheerless as they are barren and frigid. It was the Captain's intention to have passed through the Straits of Le Maire, thereby avoiding the passage around Staten Land, but as we were J BUEIAL AT SEA. Ill about to enter them, the wind chopped around and headed us off. At three o'clock this morning, we passed around the eastern point of Staten Land, and at daylight were off Easter Harbor, distant 10 miles, and heading our course toward Cape Horn, which we hope to double to-morrow evening ; but all human calculations are uncertain, particularly in this lati- tude. Before nine o'clock, A. M., we were in the midst of a furious gale, accompanied by rain and hail, whicli has driven us off our course and com- pelled us to steer toward the region of icebergs during the remainder of the day. A fair wind for twenty-four hours would place us in the Pacific to the northward of Cape Horn, but a head-wind will prevent us from reaching that point until dooms- day. Several of the passengers have amused them- selves to-day by catching gulls and Cape pigeons with a hook and line. The cold weather of the past week has been too severe for the delicate constitution of our monkey. He had a chill last night, which was succeeded by a violent fever, and this morning at daylight he was so far gone that neither hot drops, quinine nor burnt brandy could save him. At ten o'clock, A.M., he bade farewell to all things sublunary, and at meridian was sewed up in a duff-bag and cast overboard. /Sic transit glo7'ia Jocko ! Distance sailed, 85 miles. Lat. 54° m'. Therm, at M. 43°. Monday, April 9. — Daring last night the wind gradually died away, and this morning at daylight we were in a dead calm, an unusual occurrence in 112 FAIE, WEATHER AND FOUL. this latitude. At seven o'clock, A. M., a fresh breeze sprang up from the south-east, which enabled us to steer our course with all drawing sails set, and glide along at the rate of eight knots an hour. All hands on board have been agreeably dis- appointed in regard to the weather \Yhich we have encountered in the vicinity of Cape Horn. Thus far it has been quite as pleasant as on the coast of North America during the month of Oc- tober, and there is every prospect of a continuation of fine weather for several davs. At this writing;, five o'clock, P. M., we are steering our course, and the brig is bowling along at the rate of nine knots. If we can only manage to hold this breeze until meridian to-morrow, we shall most likely be to the westward of Cape Horn. Distance sailed, 94 miles. Lat. do"" 44'. Therm, at M. 44°. Tuesday, April 10. — The wind of yesterday in- creased toward night, and at ten o'clock, P. M., it blew a furious gale. The brig shipped several heavy seas during the night, one of which capsized the steerage galley and broke it in several places. At midnight a huge wave broke over the forward cabin with such force as to cause several of the passengers to jump out of their berths and com- mence making preparations for a speedy departure for " Davy Jones's locker." The fiiir wind of yesterday impressed all hands with the behef that we would pass Cape Horn before midnight last night, and upon the sti*engtli of this supposition several of the after-cabin passenger's had a jollification which lasted all night and a part A SOUTH-WEST GALE. 115 of this forenoon. The participants were as drunk as Bacchus and as merry as lords. About the time they had gotten fairly under way with a full head of steam on, the gale commenced, and, with the roaring of the elements and the carousing of the revelers, the night was rendered hideous. This morning at sunrise the gale had somewhat subsided, but in consequence of strong head-seas we have made very little j)rogress to-day. We are still to the south-east of the Horn, distant about 40 miles, but hope to double it to-night. This afternoon two vessels were discovered on our weather-bow, about 5 miles distant, heading the same course as we are. One of the vessels resembles the bark Harriet Newell, which accom- panied us out of the port of Kio. The other vessel is probably the ship Architect. A cold, drizzling rain has been falling all day, rendering everything on deck, as well as below, very unpleasant. The sun being obscured by clouds to-day, no observa- tion was taken. Distance sailed, by log, 50 miles. Therm, at M. 44°. Wednesday, April 11. — A terrific south-west gale has been blowing all day. During the forenoon the brig lay to with her helm lashed, in which condition she behaved admirably, although the waves ran mountain-high and threatened to over- whelm her at every roll. At noon the storm-stay- sail was set, and at this time, six o'clock, P. M., we are laying to under that sail, with the wind blowing a perfect hurricane. There are persons on board the brig who have doubled Cape Horn several 116 FRUGAL DIET. times, and at different seasons of the year, and tliey all say this is the severest gale they ever experienced in this vicinity. When the gale com- menced we were so near the southern extremity of the Cape that the loom of land was visible, and, had we been favored with a fair wind eight hours longer, we would have been steering north-west over the waters of the Pacific. To-day there has been no fire in either galley, consequently all hands have been compelled to subsist on low diet — raw salt pork and hard-tack ! At meridian we were 60 miles due south of Cape Horn. This afternoon a brig was reported on our lee-bow, distant 4 miles, laying to under bare poles. Distance sailed, 148 miles. Lat. 57° 10'. Therm, at M. 46°. Thursday, April 12. — During last night the wind subsided considerably, but owing to cross-seas and a strong head-wind, we have made but very little progress during the past twenty-four hours. The sun arose clear this morning, and has not been obscured by a single cloud. The brig is rolling heavily, occasionally dipping her lower yards. The steerage galley was rigged up this morning, and although in a sadly-demoralized condition, has, with attentive watching, performed its usual office quite satisfactorily. The fresh provisions laid in at Kio for the use of the cabin passengers, gave out yesterday, and all hands on board are now placed on the same diet — salt beef, pork and hard-tack, with an occasional plum-pudding boiled in salt water for dessert ! GENUINE CAPE HOEN WEATHEK. 117 Yesterday morning, being impressed with a de- sire to have something fresh for the inner man, either in the way of fish, flesh or fowl, I suggested to a friend the idea of catching a mess of Cape pigeons, which are hovering around the brig in abundance. A fishing-Hne was accordingly rigged by my friend, and with the hook baited with pork, he caught a half-dozen pigeons before noon. The birds were handed to me for the purpose of being cooked, which operation I j)erformed as well as my limited knowledge of the culinary art would admit of, and at six o'clock, P. M., we sat down to a supper of roast pigeons, stuffed with pork and onions. We ate the pork and onions — the pigeons were tJirown overboard! Distance sailed, 50 miles. Lat. 57°59'. Therm, at M. 42°. Friday, April 13. — Throughout last night and the greater jDart of to-day the weather has been cold, with frequent squalls accompanied by rain, snow and hail — genuine Cape Horn weather. Since the commencement of the stormy weather, the brig has been driven back to the eastward as far as Staten Land, and so long as this head-wind con- tinues we shall drift still further eastward. We are further south this morning than at any time since we rounded Staten Land, and judging from the cold- ness of the wind, I i^resume we are in the vicinity of icebergs and fields of floating ice. The thermom= eter has fallen seven degrees in the past twenty- four hours, and being without stoves or fires brings forcibly to mind scenes in the Antarctic, related to me by an officer of the U. S. Exploring Expedition 118 HEADED OFF BY ADVERSE WINDS. wlio visited that icy region in the year 1839. While becahned on the equator, a majority of the passengers were wishing for a gale — anything rather than a calm ; but since we have been headed off so frequently, and driven about in these lati- tudes by adverse winds, the same individuals would gladly exchange positions with a vessel becalmed in the tropics, and also willingly submit to the shaving operation as performed by Neptune and his asso- ciates. Distance sailed, 84 miles. Lat. 6d)° 08'. Therm, at M. 35°. Saturday, April 14. — Early last night the wind hauled around to the north-east, and since that time the brig has been heading her course witli all drawing sails set. The wind has been fair all day and the sea quite smooth, which has enabled us to leave the frozen regions of the south ^o\q for those of a more genial temperature, at the rate of eight knots an hour. During the past ten days we have twice been off the pitch of Cape Horn, and have as often been driven back or headed off by adverse winds, but as there is luck in odd numbers, I hope that we shall be permitted to pass this time with flying colors. Should we be favored with a fair wind during the next twenty-four hours, we shall at the expiration of that time be so far to the northward and west- ward of the Horn that it will be a difficult matter for old Boreas to head us off and drive us toward the icebergs again. Distance sailed, 106 miles. Lat. 57° 34'. Therm, at M. 38°. Sunday, April 15. — Throughout last night wind THE SECOND MATE BROKEN. 119 W. N. W., with frequent squalls accompanied by liail and snow, and to-day it has been cloudy with strong indications of more snow. At meridian, Cape Horn bore north-east, distant 125 miles; therefore wg are at last in the Pacific f Three cheers and a " tiger " for the Osceola ! This morning the Captain and second mate had an altercation in relation to the duties of the latter, which resulted in his being " broken " and ordered in the forecastle to do duty before the mast during the remainder of the voyage. It now remains to be seen whether the Captain Avill keep the "broken" mate's watch on deck or request the passengers to jDcrform that duty, as was the case previous to our arrival at Kio de Janeiro. Distance sailed, 112 miles. Lat. 58° 11'. Therm, at M. 42°. Monday, April 16. — During last night and the greater 2:)art of to-day it has been squally wuth fre- quent showers, which has kept the crew busily engaged shortening and making sail. We are still steering to the westward, which keeps us in cold weather, but shall probably commence running northward to-morrow, which Avill soon bring us into warmer weather. Now that we are safely around Cape Horn, all hands are more anxious than ever to reach San Francisco, and in order to induce the Captain to carry a little more canvas on the brig, eight or ten of the passengers have volunteered their services to assist the crew in working her during the bal- ance of the voyage. Two vessels were reported on our^weather-bow this morning, standing to the 120 BOXING THE COMPASS. westward. A large school of porjDoises paid us a visit this afternoon, and when they bade us adieu they were minus one of their number pierced with a harj)Oon, but in our efforts to get him on board, the iron drew out and he floated to the leeward. Distance sailed, 80 miles. Lat. 58° 14'. Therm, at M. 40°. Tuesday, April 17. — Throughout last night and to-day weather squally and a Scotch mist has been falling, rendering the atmosphere chilly and unpleasant. During the past twenty-four hours, the brig has completely boxed the com- 23ass. Last night she headed west; this morning, at seven o'clock, north-west ; at meridian, north ; at two o'clock, P. M., south-east; at five o'clock, P. M., south, and at this writing, seven o'clock, P. M., she is heading south-west by west, which course the Captain desires to run until to-morrow noon, when, the wind permitting, he will steer northward. Our volunteers performed their duty last night to the entire satisfaction of the Captain, but the damp and chilly weather of to-day has comjDletely disheartened them. Three of the volunteers have made up their minds not to stand watch to-night, and have already turned into their berths. Dis- tance sailed, 148 miles, by log. No observation. Therm, at M. 43°. Wednesday, April 18. — Last night and to-day the rain has poured down in torrents, and the wind has been bloAving very fresh, causing the brig to roll heavily and occasionally to ship a sea. We A JONAH ON BOAED. 121 steered a west course to-day, up to six o'clock, P. M., when the Captain wore the brig, and since that time we have been heading north-west, which will soon place us in mild and pleasant weather. During the past two days, in consequence of the cloudy state of the atmosphere, the Captain has not been able to take an observation by the sun, there- fore our position is not definitely known ; but I am of the opinion that we are in the neighborhood of 75° west longitude, and latitude 58° south. If the Captain ascertains to-morrow that we are in 75° west longitude, we will steer our joresent course during the next two weeks, wind permitting. This afternoon and evening, several of the passengers have been trying to drive away dull care by playing chess, cards and dominoes. Distance sailed, 102 miles, by log. 'No observation. Therm, at M. 44°. Thursday, April 19. — At midnight last night the brig was headed off her course by adverse winds, and during the remainder of the night and all day we have been heading south-west by west. Thus far, all our efforts to get to the northward have been futile. If by chance we get a slant of wind that enables us to run to the northward four or five, hours, a head -wind invariably drives us back to Cape Horn. We certainly have a Jonah on board 1 During the day it has been squally, with occasional showers accompanied by hail. This afternoon one of the passengers caught an albatross measuring across the wings from tip to tip, seven feet and two inches. It was captured with a hook baited with pork. Having been inspected by 122 DRIFTING TOWAED CAPE HOEN. all hands, it was placed in tlie chicken-coop for safe-keeping. Distance sailed, 94 miles, by log. No observation. Therm, at M. 42°. Friday, April 20. — At eight o'clock, A. M., we were struck by a squall which carried our foresail completely out of the bolt-rope, and the yards and masts would have gone by the board had not the passengers jumped on deck and assisted the crew in taking in sail and making things secure. The first mate had charge of the deck at the commencement of the squall, but in consequence of his tardiness in the management of the brig, he was relieved by the Captain, who immediately clewed up and furled every sail with the excej^tion of the foretop-mast- stay sail, under which we have been laying to during the forenoon. The squall has increased to a gale, and at this time, three o'clock, P. M., the wind is blowing a hurricane, which is drifting the brig toTv^ard Cape Horn at the rate of six knots an hour. After the gale had partially subsided, the Captain called the mate aft and read him a lecture on the management of a vessel in a storm, every sentence of which was rounded off with an oath, which drove the subject home and clinched it effectually. Dis- tance sailed, 80 miles. Lat. 57° 33'. Therm, at M. 42°. CHAPTER VII. Another severe gale— Swollen limbs— Is it scurvy ?— Captain and mate have a growl— Fight between two passengers- One of the passengers celebrates his birthday— Gambling on board, and the Captain's mode of suppressing it— Fair wind once more— Passengers again on deck— Punishing a ship's boy— Passengers object to putting into Talcahuana— Anchors gotten over the bow— Passengers watching for land —Make the coast of Chili— Head-wind— Driven out to sea. Saturday, April 21.— The gale of yesterday con- tinued throughout last night, during which time I did not close my eyes, for fear of being thrown out of my berth by the continual rolling of the brig. This storm is the severest we have encountered during the passage— the barometer at one time being as low as 29°. Early this morning the mainsail, top-sail, spanker and jib were set, a new foresail broke out of the sail-room and bent on. Throughout the day we have been steering north-west by west, but owing to a light wind and heavy cross-seas, have made very little headway. During yesterday we must have drifted at least 75 miles to the southward and eastward, which places us in about the same locality that we were this day week. This morning a bria; was reported directly astern of us, distant (123) 124 CHILBLAINS OR SCUKVY. about G miles, heading north-east. Distance sailed, 64 miles. Lat. 58° 15'. Therm, at M. 42°. Sunday, April 22. — The breeze of yesterday continued throughout last night, which has enabled us to reo-ain what we lost durins; the 2;ale of last Friday. This morning the wind choj^ped around to the north-west, which has compelled us to head south-west bv west all day. Last nio-ht our amateur sailors again volunteered their services, and worked like Trojans, pulling and hauling at the ropes. My feet have been very sore the past week, and to-day they are so badly swollen that it is with oTcat difficultv I can draw on niv boots. One-third of the passengers are similarly afflicted. Whether this swelling of the feet is occasioned by chilblains or the scurvy, I am unable to state, but am inclined to the belief that it is the incipient symptoms of the latter disease. Distance sailed, 130 miles. Lat. 6Q>° 53'. Therm, at M. 42°. Jlonday, April 2o, — Fair wind all last night and to-day, which has enabled us to steer our course over the Southern Ocean at the rate of six knots an hour. Should this wind continue until to-morrow evening, we will have made sufficient longitude to warrant our steering a northwardly course. Tlie weather is as coquettish as a maiden in her teens. At sunrise the mercury in the thermometer was down to 41° ; at two o'clock, P. M., it stood at 50° ; at three o'clock, P. M., 52°, and in two hours there- after it was down to 45°. Two vessels were in sight this afternoon ; one a PAETIALITY FOK THE HORN. 12o bark, on our starboard-bow, distant about 8 niiles, and the other a brig, on our larboard quarter, 10 miles off, both standing to the westward. They are, no doubt, California passenger vessels. Dis- tance sailed, 118 miles. Lat. 57° 14'. Therm, at M. 48°. Tuesday, April 24. — The breeze which we carried throughout yesterday died away in the evening, and during the remainder of the night it was squally, causing the watch on deck to be constantly exer- cising the sails. To-day we have been steering a northerly course, but owing to frequent squalls and a strong head-sea, have made but very little progress. The squalls have been accompanied by rain, hail and snow — gentle reminders of Cape Horn. The Osceola seems to have fallen desperately in love with Cape Horn, and appears loath to leave, judging from the manner in which she is dodging around in this region. We are no farther from CajDe Horn than we Avere ten days ago, and God only knows when we shall be permitted to leave this locality. A strange fatality seems to hang over us ! Who is the Jonah ? Distance sailed, 114 miles. Lat. 57° 04'. Therm, at M. 40°. Wednesday^ April 25. — To-day we have been steering north by west with a light wind, conse- quently have made very little headway. A strong head-sea has been setting down from the north all the past week, which has retarded our progress. The Captain and mate had a growl yesterday concerning their relative positions on shipboard. 126 AN ALBATROSS FOR DINNER. The Captain swore that his views were correct, but the mate begged leave to differ with him, which at once aroused tlie old man's ire, and seizing a belay- ing-pin from the rail, he handed it to the mate, and in language more forcible than polite, requested him to knock his (the Captain's) brains out ! The mate declined to j^erform the sanguinary operation, and the old skipper is still left to growl whenever he feels disj)0sed to indulge in his favorite pastime. A homeward-bound vessel passed us this after- noon to the windward, distant about 10 miles. This evening one of the jDassengers shot an alba- tross which fell on deck. The wings were given to the steerage steward ; the skin and feathers were retained by the j)erson who killed the bird, and the carcass will be served up to-day at two o'clock, P. M., for the especial benefit of steerage mess No. 1. Thank God, I don't belong to that mess ! / can eat albatross, but I donH hanker after it. Dis- tance sailed, 110 miles. Lat. 6b° 48'. Tlierm. at M. 41°. Thursday, April 26. — Last night at eight o'clock, the Captain wore ship and stood to the westward until three o'clock this morning, when it commenced blowing a gale from the north-east which continued until noon, the brig scudding before it with canvas barely sufficient to keep her steady. At one o'clock, P. M., the wind lulled and the mainsail, foresail, jib and top-sails — the latter being close-reefed — were set, and during the remainder of the afternoon the brig has been heading a northerly course, which I hope will soon carry us into warmer weather. AN AFFRAY BETWEEN TWO PASSENGERS. 127 One hundred days since we left Philadelphia, and we are not 30 miles to the northward of Cape Horn. Should the latter part of our voyage j)rove as tedious and unpleasant as the first, we shall all hail with joy the land of promise to which we are bound, whether we realize fortunes or not. If ever sixty-five individuals were more heartily disgusted with a sea voyage than are the passengers on board this brig, I have yet to make their acquaintance. Distance sailed, 144 miles. Lat. 55° 04'. Therm, at M. 46°. Friday, April 27. — Last night at eight o'clock, the wind headed us off our course, and the Captain wore the brig and stood to the westward. At two o'clock this morning a gale crossed our path and the brig was hove to under foretop-mast-stay sail, in which position she remained until eight o'clock, A. M., when the foresail and top-sails Avere spread to the breeze, and since that time we have been heading northwardly and rolling over the water against a head-sea at the rate of three knots an hour. Last night it was showery, but the weather to-day has been delightfully j^leasant. An altercation occurred this morning between two of the cabin passengers, which caused a general rush toward the scene of action. During the affray one of the combatants drew a knife from his pocket, which was secured and thrown overboard before he had an opportunity of using it on his antagonist. This afternoon a cabin passenger caught an alba- tross measuring ten feet four inches across the wings, 128 GAMBLINa. from tip to tip. Distance sailed, 98 miles. Lat. 04° 4G'. Therm, at M. 4G°. Saturday, A2:)ril 28. — The brig has steered her course all day with all canvas set ; the weather has been mild and j^leasant. Night before last, our amateur sailors declined to stand watch in consequence of the cook's having refused to serve them with their accustomed allow- ance of coffee during the morning watch. The cir- cumstance was reported to Captain Fairfowl, who soon arranged matters to their entire satisfaction, and last night they were again on deck pulling and hauling the ropes as usual. The past week the gambling fever has again been raging fiercely on board, several of the cabin passengers having bucked away their last cent. Some of them have become so infatuated with this damnable vice that they have cut the buttons from their coats, vests and inexpressibles, for the purpose of j^h^ying button bluff. Distance sailed, 134 miles. Lat. 52° 50'. Therm, at M. 48°. Sunday, April 29. — Last night the brig headed N. N. E., being two points to the eastward of her course. The weather during the night was squally with occasional showers. At eight o'clock, A. ]\L, the Captain wore the brig, and since that time we have been makins: a due west course. The Aveather has been chilly, and this afternoon a cold, drizzling rain has been falling. Three weeks ago this morning we rounded Staten Land, and at this time we are only one degree north of the Straits of Magellan. A FAEO-BANK. 129 The old skipper turned out of liis berth this morning in a very bad humor, and during the day has, to use a nautical phrase, been "working up" the sailors. They have been employed all day moving the larboard chain cable aft on the quarter deck, for the purpose of bringing the brig down more by the stern, thereby enabling her to sail faster and make less leeway. Sunday brings no rest for poor Jack. " Six clays shalt thou labor, And do all thou art able, On the seventh, wash decks And haul aft the cable /" Distance sailed, 101 miles. Lat. 51° 39'. Therm, at M. 4G°. Monday, April 30. — During the past twenty- four hours the brig has been wrestling with a head- wind and cross-seas. A cold rain has been falling since morning which has caused the passengers to remain in close quarters all day. A faro-bank has been in operation in the after- cabin this afternoon, and several hundred dollars have changed hands. At sundown the bank was closed, but after supper it was again opened, and at this writing, eight o'clock, P. M., I hear the checks rattling on the table over my head. The sun being obscured by clouds, no observa- tion was taken. Distance sailed, by log, 114 miles. Therm, at M. 48°. Tuesday, 3Iay 1. — Early last night the wind commenced blowing furiously from the north-west, and at midnight we were in the midst of a hurri- 130 ANOTHER FURIOUS GALE. cane. At dayliglit tliis morning the brig was hove to, and she has been hiying in that position, under the foretop-mast-stay sail, all day. The after-cabin hlaclclcgs opened their faro bank again this morning, and after gambling until noon, concluded to suspend operations until the storm subsided. Distance sailed, 35 miles. Lat. 50° b&. Therm, at M. 48°. Wednesday, May 2. — The gale continued to rage througliout last night with increased violence. Dur- ing the night, the brig shipped several of the heaviest seas I ever saw break over the bow of a vessel. She shipped one in the early part of the evening that washed the steerage cook and a ship's boy out of the galley and carried them on an excursion down the lee scuppers as far as the companion-way, where they brought up hard and fast against a chicken-coop jambed between a water-cask and the bulwarks. The brig rolled so heavily all night that several of the passengers on the weather-side were pitched out of their berths among the trunks and boxes. Fortunately no bones were broken. At dayliglit this morning the gale subsided, the wind hauled to the south-west, and we have been heading our course with all drawing-sails set, but a strong head-sea has prevented us from making much headway. This morning all hands were put on an allowance of two quarts of water per man. This arrangement will answer very well so long as the weather continues cool, but in a warmer climate it will scarcely suffice for cooking purposes. Dis- CAPT. FAIRFOWL lllGHT FOR ONCE. 131 tance sailed, 28 miles. Lat. 50° 44'. Therm, at M. 46°. Thursday, 3Iay 3. — Througliout last night the weather was squally with frequent showers. Since sunrise the wind has been ou the increase, and strong indications of a gale before midnight are visible. A Scotch mist has been falling all day, and this afternoon the brig has been completely enveloped by a dense fog. One of the steerage passengers celebrated his birthday yesterday, and the result was that at least a dozen of his com- panions retired to their berths in a state of inebria- tion. The brig has been surrounded all day by gulls, goneys, albatross and other sea-birds. Dis- tance sailed, 116 miles. Lat. 51° 01'. Therm, at M. 48°. Fridaij, 3Iay 4. — My predictions yesterday in relation to a gale were verified. When the sun set last night the wind commenced blowing a severe gale, Avhicli continued until midnight, when it sud- denly lulled and soon after we were becalmed. To-day the wind has been light and baffling, which has caused the Captain to wear the brig three times since sunrise. The weather during the forenoon has been foggy, damj:) and chilly. Captain Fairfowl to-day issued n. pronunciamiento to the blacklegs, and also gave the mate orders to furl all the sails and lay the brig to should he witness any more gambling on board during the voyage. This order created considerable excite- ment among the gamblers at first, but they soon cooled down and became as docile as lambs. The 132 FAVORABLE WINDS ONCE MORE. Captain says, and lie is in dead earnest, that there shall be no more gambling on board the Osceola, but all hands, including the cook, have permission to pray as long and as loud as they please. Tally one for Captain Fairfowl. Now that gambling has been squelched, the Cap- tain predicts a fair wind within the next twenty- four hours. We shall see. Distance sailed, 72 miles. Lat. 50° 30'. Therm, at M. 49°. Saturday, May 5. — At eight o'clock last night the wind hauled around to the south-west, which has enabled us to steer our course, which we have been heading, with square yards, for the first time in thirty days, but the wind has been so light that we have made very little progress. The crew has been employed reeving studding-sail gear, and I hope that we shall have studding-sails set below and aloft to-morrow. This morning I had a fine view of a Unbacked whale, which I should judge would measure sixty feet in length. Distance sailed, 110 miles. Lat. 49° 34'. Therm, at M. 47°. Sunday, 3Iay 6. — Throughout last night we were blessed with a fair wind, which has continued to- day, and wafted us along toward our j^ort of desti- nation at the rate of nine knots an hour. Several showers of rain, accompanied by hail, have fallen to-day, which have rendered the atmosphere chilly. The weather foretop-mast studding-sail was set this morning, and it did good service until noon, when the wind hauled slightly ahead, and it was taken in. We have not carried studding-sails MILD AND PLEASANT WEATHEPw 133 before in thirty clays, in consequence of continued head-winds. The Captain hailed the setting of the studding-sails this morning as a good omen, and immediately ordered an additional pint of water to be served out with our daily allowance, which will hereafter be tw^o quarts and one pint, and shocking bad water at that. To-day the passengers have had their mattresses and blankets spread on deck for the purpose of giving them an airing, which they needed very much. Early yesterday morning a bark was reported on our lee-bow, distant about 10 miles, heading to the northward. We gained on her so fast during the day, that at sundown she was nearly hull down astern of us. Distance sailed, 140 miles. Lat. 47° 20'. Therm, at M. 46°. Monday, Hay 7. — During the past twenty-four hours the brig has been steering her course at the rate of nine knots an hour. The weather is be- coming more mild and j^leasant, and " life on the ocean wave" seems more endurable. The passen- gers who have been shivering with the cold w^eather for the past twenty days, are skipping about the deck as lively as larks, enjoying a little sunshine. The mercury in the thermometer marked 53° to- day, being the first time it has reached that j^oint in thirty days. All hands were very much amused to-day by a novel punishment inflicted on one of the ship's boys. A pig, ^veighing twenty pounds, was slung under the right arm of the culprit by a lashing that passed over his right shoulder and around the body 134 A NOVEL PUNISHMENT. of the j^orker. Thus accoutred, he was ordered by the Captain to march around the deck twelve times, which command he obeyed to the infinite amuse- ment of all hands, who lined the deck on either side. The scene reminded me of a Scotch piper. At every step he jerked his elbow into the side of poor piggy, at the same time pinching his ear, which caused his porkship to discourse most shrill and discordant music. Distance sailed, 184 miles. Lat. 43° 58'. Therm, at M. 5G°. Tuesday, 3Iay 8. — We had a fair wind last night, which has continued to-day, and the brig has been gliding along at the rate of eight knots an hour. The weather still continues showery, although it is gradually growing warmer. We have, in the last fifty hours, made nearly 500 miles on our course, Avliich is very gratifying to all on board. Yesterday, when the latitude was reported by the Captain, all hands gave three cheers and a " tiger," which seemed to shake the brig from stem to stern, and add fresh impetus to her speed. A diversity of opinion j^revails among the pas- sengers in regard to the port we shall next stop at for provisions and water. When we left Kio it was generally believed that our next stopping-place >vould be Valparaiso, but at present a rumor is rife that the brig will put into the j^ort of Talcahuana. The old skipper is so obstinate that he will not gratify the passengers by informing them in which port he will drop anchor. Distance sailed, 190 miles. Lat. 41° OG'. Therm, at M. 55°. STEERING DIRECT FOK TALCAHUANA. 135 Wednesday, Hay 9. — Fair but light wind during the last twenty-four hours. The weather is delight- fully pleasant, and all hands are on deck indulging in a sun-bath. The agony is over. This morning the Captain altered the course of the brig, and since that time we have been steering direct for Talcahuana, where we hojDe to arrive day after to-morrow. This after- noon, at the request of the Captain, I made out a list of naval rations for eighty-two persons for seventy days. The provisions will be purchased at Talcahuana, and the probability is that we shall not stop again until we reach San Francisco. This evening one of the passengers had a severe attack of the cramp colic which came very near causing him to lose the number of his mess. Distance sailed, 180 miles. Lat. 38° 54'. Therm, at M. 57°. Thursday, May 10. — We are still blessed with a fair wind, and are jogging along at the rate of six knots an hour. Royal yards were sent up this morning, and we have carried royals and studding- sails during the day. The anchors were gotten over the bow this afternoon, the chain cables hauled for- ward and shackled, and everything forward made ready for coming to anchor. During the afternoon the tops and yards have been crowded with passen- gers watching for land, but they have been disap- pointed, no land being visible at sundown. Yesterday morning, the second mate was called aft by the Captain and restored to duty, and during the remainder of the voyage he will be entitled to the pfivilege of sleeping in the steerage and eating 13G LAND IN SIGHT. his meals in the cabin or galley. A school of sperm-whales made their a^ipearance yesterday afternoon and accompanied us for several hours. Distance sailed, 143 miles. Lat. 37° 50'. Therm, at M. 59°. Friday, May 11. — We steered our course all last night, but this morning the wind hauled around to the northward and headed us off three or four points. At meridian the Captain informed us that we were 40 miles to the leeward of Talcahuana, therefore there is little hope of reaching that port to-morrow unless the wind becomes more favorable. This forenoon land was reported half a dozen times by different individuals, but like the French- man's flea, when they looked the second time it was not there. At sundown, however, terra firma was really discovered on our lee-bow, distant about 30 miles. Another school of whales visited us this afternoon, and after following in our wake for an hour turned flukes and disappeared. Several of the passengers have been busily engaged skinning and stuffing albatross and other sea-birds, but whether they will ever reach the United States, remains to be seen. Distance sailed, 112 miles. Lat. 37° 12'. Therm, at M. 59°. Saturday, May 12. — The wind continued ahead all night, and in order to work the brig as far to the Avindward as possible, the Captain wore her at the commencement of each watch. At daylight this morning, the Island of Santa Maria and the Paps of Talcahuana were distinctly in view; the latter on our weather bow, distant THE PAPS OF TALCAHUANA. 137 about 30 miles. We continued beating toward tbe harbor during the forenoon, and woukl probably have come to anchor ere this had we not encoun- tered a norther, which compelled us to give the land a wide berth ; therefore the Captain wore the brig and stood to the westward, which course we are steering at this time, eight o'clock, P. M. A cold, drizzling rain has been falling at intervals this afternoon, which has kept the passengers in their quarters. The Captain and hrst mate had another growl in relation to the duty of the latter, and during the wrangle the lie direct was given on both sides. The old skip2^er swears that he will discharge the first mate on our arrival in Talcahuana, and the second mate says if the Captain does not serve him in like manner he will take the liberty of discharging him- self. It is probable that both mates will be dis- charged at that 2)lace and other officers shipped to fill the vacancies. Distance sailed, 40 miles. In consequence of being in sight of land no observation was taken at meridian. Therm, at M. 68°. Sunday, May 13. — The norther of yesterday con- tinued blowing furiously until two o'clock this morning, when it suddenly abated. Two hours afterward, the wind hauled around to the north- west, and the Captain wore the brig and stood to the northward and eastward, which direction we have continued all day. During last night we were driven so far to the southward and westward that we did not make the land again until five o'clock this evening. At sundown we were about 15 miles 138 LOOKING FOE, LAND. to the windward of tlie harbor of Talcahuana. Owing to the darkness of the night the Captain will not attempt to run in, but will lay off and on until morning, when, if the wind remains fair, we shall run into the harbor. The j^assengers have been looking anxiously for land throughout the entire day, and several have dressed themselves for shore in order to be in readiness for the first boat that leaves the brig after the anchor is down. Distance sailed, 70 miles. Lat. 36° 35'. Therm, at M. 62°. CHAPTER VIII. Put into tlie wrong harbor — Passengers go ashore — Reception by the natives of De Chatta — Deserters — Dine with the Alcalde — Ascertain our whereabouts, and start for Talca- huana — Scenery en route — Chilian peasantry — Their respect for the dead — Primitive wine-press and threshing-machine — Quarter of a century later — Henry INIeiggs — His arrival in Chili — Brief sketch of his eventful life — Peace to his ashes. 3Ionday, May 14. — Last night about eight o'clock we came very near running aground on a reef off the harbor of Talcahuana, which caused a panic among the passengers. We hugged the land closely during the night, and at daylight this morning dis- covered through the fog an opening, into which we ran, the Captain su^^posing it to be the harbor of Talcahuana, but soon discovering his mistake, let go the anchor. When the sun had dispelled the fog, we found ourselves in a small bay, the name of which we coukl not determine. We could not put to sea, as a stiff breeze was blowing directly into the mouth of the bay ; therefore the Captain concluded to go ashore and ascertain his where- abouts. The skipper gave the passengers permis- sion to accompany him, and the boats were soon filled and pulling for the shore with willing hands. We landed near a mud hut with a thatched i"Oof, wliich was occupied by an old man and woman, who received us with a hearty welcome, and set (139) 140 IX THE WRONG HARBOE. before us wine, bread and apples, to all of wliicli we did amj)le justice, and for which our host declined to receive any remuneration. We, however, pre- vailed on him to accept a cigar from each of us. We endeavored by signs and gestures to ascertain the name of the bay in which the brig was at anchor and its distance from Talcahuana. To the former question he shrugged his shoulders and shook his head, and to the latter he pointed to the southward. The old man soon started over the sand-hills to the northward and beckoned us to follow. From the top of the first hill we discovered a settlement about a half-mile distant, consisting of about twenty mud huts, for which we started at full run. On our arrival in the village the men met us with fear and trembling, and the women and chil- dren took refuge in the huts and looked cautiously at us through the cracks and holes in the walls, as we passed. Among the first party that met us at the entrance to the village Avere a Yankee and an Englishman, Avho had deserted from a whale-ship at Talcahuana and were en route to Valparaiso, wliere they in- tended to ship for San Francisco. From the Yan- kee, we learned that the Osceola was at anchor in the Bay De Chatta, 9 miles to the northward of the harbor, and 27 miles from the town of Talca- huana. AVe also learned that there was a road leading to the village of Tome, distant about 7 miles and situated on the north-east side of the bay of Talcahuana, from which place we could embark in whale-boats and reach Talcahuana before night. ON" THE ROAD TO TOME. 141 The Ca23tain assented to our proposed adventure, and, after dining at the house of the alcakle, myself and thirteen other passengers started for Tome, where we arrived at five o'clock, P. M. The road was very muddy and slippery, caused by the rain of the previous night, yet the scenery through "which it wound, and the numerous pictur- esque views of the Bay De Chatta and harbor of Talcahuana, doubly repaid us for the fatigue en- dured while performing the journey. The peas- antry of Chili are the most unsophisticated and hospitable people I have ever met. During our journey across the mountains we frequently stopped at their huts for water, and they invariably offered us wme, for which they declined to receive any compensation. At one hut at which I called for a drink of water, the 8enora was eating a quince, one- half of which she presented to me and insisted on my eating it. I comj)lied without much persuasion, as fruit of any kind was a luxury after having been deprived of it for forty days. On the road we passed several apple-orchards, vineyards, strawberry patches and fields of wheat. At nearly all the road- crossings, I noticed rudely-constructed crosses, one of which, fashioned more smoothly than the others, was entwined with evergreens and fancifully deco- rated with flowers — the work, most likely, of some dark-eyed sefiorita, who delighted in performing this office of affection over the grave of a lover or brother. Chilian wine possesses a peculiar flavor, which I could not account for until I had witnessed the pro- 142 A DIGRESSION. cess of manufacture, wliicli is decidedly j)rimitive. A lai'ge tub is partly filled with grapes which are crushed by the naked feet of the natives, and after fermentation tlie juice is bottled and labeled wine. In justice to the grape-mashers, I will add, they always wash their feet — after leaving the tub. A Chilian threshing-machine is also quite as primitive and novel as the wine-press. The thresh- ing is executed by mule-power, without the aid of machinery. A hard-beaten j^ath or circle, very much resembling a circus-ring, is formed around the wheat-stack, and when ready for operation the sheaves are thickly strewn around the circle, and mules of all grades, good, bad and indifferent, are turned loose into the inclosure and kept moving lively to the music of the whip until tlie grain is thoroughly separated from the sheaves. A Chilian threshing-machine never requires oiling, but it sometimes becomes obstinate and kicks up behind. [With the reader's permission, I desire to digress a moment from the thread of my narrative. A quarter of a century has wrought wonderful changes in the Kepublic of Chili. The wooden plough, primitive wine-press and thresliing-machine have been suj^planted by the introduction of modern and improved Yankee appliances. The world moves, and Chili now occnpies a front seat in the car of progress ! To a single man, an American, is dne in a large measure her wonderful progress during the past twenty-five years, and that man was the late Henry Meiggs, who died at Lima, Peru, on the 2yth day From a portrait, by the National Bank Note Co.. N. Y. HENEY MEIGGS. 145 of September, 1877, aged sixty-eiglit years. Harry Meiggs was, in many respects, one of the most re- markable men of the present century. The follow- ing brief history of his eventful life, gleaned from various sources, is believed to be correct : Henry Meiggs was born in Greene County, N. Y., in the year 1811. He began life in Catskill as a lumber merchant, with the late James Milliard, who at that time was one of the most extensive lumber dealers between New York and Albany. Mr. Meiggs lived in Catskill until he was twenty- five years of age, going from there in 1835 or 1836 to Williamsburgh, L. I., where he again went into the lumber trade with Minor Keith, now living near Babylon, L. I., who married his sister, Clara Meiggs. Keith was formerly from Cairo, Greene County, and brother-in-law of General George Beach, ex-State Senator, who married his sister. Mr. Meiggs remained with Milliard several years. He was the leader of the choir in St. Luke's Church. He was well versed in the lumber trade, highly respected, a man of tremendous energy, physically a perfect athlete, good-natured and gentlemanly. Speaking of his fists — you should have seen them ! But perhaps you have seen those of the late Tom Hyer — Tom's mauleys were not the smallest. Several friends went down to the Hook with Meiggs when he sailed for California in 1849, on board the old Havre packet-ship Albany. A party of Catskill men accompanied him. He arrived in San Francisco in July, 1849, where he sold his ship-load of lumber at twenty 146 MEIGGS'S SUCCESS. times its cost, making a clear profit of $50,000 on the venture. Then, witli consummate discretion, he took a subordinate position in a lumber-yard, and studied all the phases and premises of the situa- tion before he risked a dollar of his own capital. Foreseeing the future greatness of San Francisco and the inevitable demand for lumber, he quietly matured schemes for a grand success. AVhen everything was read}^ he hired five hundred men, sent them into the forests of Contra Costa County, felled the choicest trees in that then densely- wooded reo'ion, hauled them in saw-lo2;s to the shore of the Bay of Ban Francisco, built them into huge rafts, floated them to a wharf which he had constructed, converted them into lumber by the agency of a steam saw-mill which he had erected, and made $500,000 in gold by the operation. Thencelbrth until he fell, Henry Meiggs was a foremost man in California in business, in munici- pal politics and in social life. He had three manias — land, lumber and music. His land and lumber operations were conducted on a scale of unprece- dented magnitude ; and he was popularly believed to be the richest man on the western coast of America. But, when the great financial pressure of 1854 seized California with its paralyzing griji, bankruptcy came upon him like an armed man. He rose to the contest with such enormous strength and such resourceful genius, that, had he sought only to save himself, he might have come off vic- torious; but, with the ill-judged generosity which was a pervading element of his character, he at- MEIGGS'S WHARF AND MUSIC HALL. 147 tempted to save all his friends, and was by them drag-ired down into bottomless ruin. In the frenzy of that death-struggle Mr. Meiggs succumbed to the temjDter. He was a restless, alert and enterprising man, having at the same time a great deal of good nature, frank, open, obliging, doing a good turn for others, and getting a great many favors in return. Among the pioneers he was a marked man. He was elected to the Board of Aldermen as early as 1851, and served very acceptably for two or three terms. He ranked among the better men who at that time were con- nected with the municipal government. During the latter part of his service as alderman he be- came interested in street contracts, while engaged largely in the lumber business. He built the long pier known as Meiggs's Wharf, and probably did more than any other man to develoj^ the North Beach side of the town. He built Music Hall, on Bush Street, on a part of the site of the jDresent Occidental Hotel. At that time Harry Meiggs was one of the most influential men of the city. His reputation was good, and although he was a venturesome man, yet he could command an almost unbounded credit. Captain Jacob Cousins, who was master of the bark America, in which Meiggs made his exodus, says that on the 26th of September, 1854, he was in the cabin of the bark conversing with Captain Wiggins, who was then in command of the vessel, when Vickery Seaman, a warm personal friend of Meiggs, and connected with him in business, came 148 MEIGGS'S FLIGHT. aboard aucl announced that he had bought the ves- sel, and asked Captain Cousins if he would take charge of her. The Captain asked where the vessel was going, to which Seaman replied, " Probably to Australia with passengers, and I want you to ballast the vessel and get ready for sea as soon as possible." The Captain knew that Meiggs was very much embarrassed financially, and suspected that he was to be the principal passenger, but said nothing of his susj^icions, simply accej^ting the command. The vessel was fitted up just as any ordinary lumber coaster, as far as cabin accommodations were con- cerned, with very little furniture, and no carpet on the floor. The only extra expense incurred for the comfort of the expected passengers was in furnishing two small state-rooms forward for ofiicers' quarters, and the purchase of a second-hand sofa for the cabin. On the 3d of October the Captain reported the vessel ready for sea, and about nine o'clock the same even- ing. Seaman came on board and told Captain Cousins that Henry Meiggs and his family were the passen- gers going in the ship. At midnight Seaman and the Ca2:>tain went ashore in the ship's boat alone, landing at Broadway wharf, where they left the boat and went up to Mr. Meiggs 's residence. They were met at the door by Mr. Meiggs, who took the Captain by the hand, saying, " Captain, this is hell, but I can't help it." In the house, besides Mrs. Meiggs and her three children, were Ned Seaman, a young man named Gilchrist, a clerk in Meiggs's employ, John G. Meiggs, David Thayer, a cousin of Meiggs, and two servant girls. The party sat TEYING DELAYS. 149 and talked until three o'clock in the morning, dur- ing which time Meiggs spoke freely of his troubles. As the clock struck three, Ca23tain Cousins an- nounced that it was time they were going on board. Meiggs jumj)ed up, put on his hat, and giving it a knock on the top, said, " I'm ready." John Meiggs then produced a sack containing $10,000 in gold, which was emjDtied out on a table and divided into two equal portions, Captain Cousins taking one- half and Henry Meiggs the other. This is all the money that went on board of the vessel. The entire party then walked down to the wharf, where Gil- christ and Ned Seaman took leave, and the rest getting into the boat, the Captain sculled them out to the bark. In the morning a thick fog hung over the bay, and there was not a breath of air stirring. A tug was engaged to tow them out to sea, but the fog was so dense that they could not find their way out through the Golden Gate, and the vessel was anchored off* Fort Point. About four o'clock in the afternoon they again got under way, and were towed out as far as the North Head. After making a few tacks, the Cap- tain found that the tide was drifting them back into the bay, and he was again forced to come to anchor. At high water, the Captain hove up anchor and drifted out with the tide in a dense fog. Toward^ morning a light wind sprang up from the land, and by daylight they were half-way to the Farallones. There they lay becalmed for two days, but the fog was so thick that they felt no uneasiness about being followed. During all this time, Mr. Meiggs loO AKEIVAL IN CHILI. was calm and cheerful, not showing the slightest sign of excitement. The story about the pistol in readiness to commit suicide the Captain pronounced absurd, as the only fire-arm on board was a revolver belonging to himself, which was never loaded. A breeze finally came, and the vessel was kept away to the southward. After getting clear of the land, Mr. Meiggs, in answer to an inquiry as to where he wished to go, said to the Captain that he might go where he pleased, but that he should like to see some of the South Sea Islands, and then go to Aus- tralia or Chili. They first went to Otahiti, where they remained thirteen days, leaving there just three days before the papers from San Francisco, with an account of Meiggs's flight, arrived. They then touched at Pitcairn Island, where they lay two days, and from there sailed for Talcahuana, Chili. Meiggs landed there and took his family up to the city of Concepcion for a short time. He engaged as sub-contractor of bridges on a railroad then in process of construction in Chili. His remarkable executive ability drew attention to him. He was a driving man, and could get more work out of native laborers than any one else. The story of his sudden departure from San Francisco injured him in his early efforts. But soon after ex-Governor Bigler became Minister to Chili; a kind-hearted man, who was disposed to look on the better side of Meiggs's life. The fact that Bigler recognized him and was on friendly terms with him, produced a favorable impression upon the peoj^le. ^Meiggs could not be a very bad man, if the Ameri- A STUPENDOUS ENTERPRISE. 151 can Minister was disposed to overlook his irregu- larities. A short time afterward, he contracted with the Chilian government to complete the San- tiago and Valparaiso Kailroad in four years, for $12,000,000. He completed the work in about two years, making a clear profit of over $1,300,000. Then followed other gigantic railroad enterprises, chief among which was the railroad from Arequipa to Mollindo, in Peru, completed in 1871, from which he derived a very large profit. He celebrated the completion of this road by a lavish expenditure of money for a public dinner and for gold and silver medals, the outlay being not less than three-fourths of a million dollars. He afterward contracted for six railways in Peru, most of which he com2:)letcd, the lonjrest beini"oraised our clearance papers this evening or to-morrow morning, and shall sail as soon as the wind will permit. All hands are anxious to be on the wing again. Had the weather permitted, the Americans belong- ing to the California j^J^ssenger vessels would have marched in procession through Talcahuana to-day. During the afternoon our passengers have been coming on board laden with fruit, nuts and bread, p»reparatory to sailing. The old skipper has been LEAVE TALCAHUANA. I/O sampling drugged wine again. He came on board this evening as merry as a lark. Saturday, May 2G. — The rain is still pouring down, and a stiff breeze has been blowing into the harbor all day, which has prevented us from getting under way and putting to sea. Our new mate has already become dissatisfied with the Captain, and is just going over the side of the brig with his bag and baggage. Another first mate was shipped this evening, but I fear we shall lose him unless we sail soon. The Captain has been "working up" the sailors to-day, by causing them to scrub paint-work in the rain. We are now ready for sea, and are waiting for a fair wind to take our departure. Sunday, May 27. — The rain poured down in torrents all last night, and early this morning we Avere completely enveloped by a dense fog. At sunrise the fog disappeared, and the day has been delightfully pleasant. After breakfast the anchor was hove short, and at ten o'clock, A. M., we received our clearance papers from the Port Captain, got under way, and at meridian passed the Island of Quiriquina, at the entrance to the harbor, and were soon at sea, gliding merrily along over the swelling billows of the Pacific. At the mouth of the harbor we spoke the Cali- fornia passenger ship Christoval Colon, of New York, bound in for a supply of provisions and water. The American brig Mary Wilder, bound for California, got under way about an hour before 174 AFTER-CABIN AND STEERAGE. lis, l)iil WO ]);isstHl lior in tlio liurbor, and at this time, 8ix o'clock, 1\ ]\[., she is fully 10 miles astern of us. As ■vve passed tlie Christoval Colon, cheers were exchanged, and our band, consisting of a bugle, cornet and trombone, struck up the "b^tar- Bpangled Ininueiv" which was cheered at intervals by the passengers of the Colon and Murij ]]lldcr, until their voices were ch'owued by tlie chishing of the waves against the i)row of the Osceola. As soon as wo were outside the harbor, studding- sails were set below and aloft, and the coast of Chili rapidly disa2")peared in the distance. Monday, May 28. — J)uring last niglit and to- day tlie Osceola lias been gliding along before a deliirhlful breeze with all studdiiiir-sails set. This morning at daylight the Jlfary Wilder was about 10 miles astei-ii of us, and at sundown she was nearly hull down. The weather lias been very pleasant, and I hope it will continue so during the remainder of the passage. This morning angry words passed between the after-cabin and steerage passengers in relation to their rights on shipboard. One of the former intimated that the steerage passengers had no right to promenade the quarter-deck. This brought the steerage boys out in full force, and a, long contro- versy ensued, in wliicli both i>arties took an active part. The matter was finally referred to the Cap- tain, who decided that the steerage passengers had the same right to the use of the quarter-deck as their aristocratic neighbors of the cabin. The opinion among the steerage 2)asseiigers to-day is, JUAN FERNANDEZ. 175 that Captain Falrfowl's head is j)ei'fGCtly lcvc;l. Distance sailed, 147 miles. Lat. 34° 55'. Therm, at M. 58°. Tucsdcuj, May 29. — Throughout last night the wind continued fair, but this morning it hauled ahead, and the Captain wore the brig and stood to the westward. At eleven o'clock, A. M., the wind hauled around fair again, and since that time we have been running before a light breeze with the sea as smooth and placid as a mill-pond. At me- ridian we were off the Island of Juan Fernandez, once the abode of " poor old Robinson Crusoe." This morning the Cajitain reprimanded the steer- age cook for using too mucli salt pork in a lob- scouse he was preparing for breakfast. From this time forward, tlie steerage passengers will insist on having their allowance of meat weighed out daily. This afternoon the weekly allowance of tea, sugar, butter, cheese, molasses and vinegar was served out by the mate for the use of the steerage passengers. Distance sailed, 91 miles. Lat. 33° 31'. Therm, at M. 04°. Wednesday, May 30. — J)uring last night and to- day the wind has been ahead, consequently we have made very little })rogress. We hope soon to fall in with the south-east " trades," which will waft us to the equator in a short time. The weather is daily becoming milder, which has brought the passengers on deck attired in their summer costumes. Flannel shirts and other woolen clothing have been stowed snugly away for future use. Yesterday the after-cabin gamblers, not having 11 17G FAKO-BANK BURSTED. the fear of Captain Fairfowl's mandate before their eyes, commenced operations again. The game dur- ing tlic day was "/t'c??o," not before played on board. The game being new, the green ones bet heavily with the never-failing result — the more they put down the less they took up I Distance sailed, 94 miles. Lat. 32° 01'. Therm, at M. Go°. lliursda}/, May 31. — Have been becalmed all day with the sails flapping lazily against the masts. AVe were not looking lor a dead calm in this lati- tude; but during our pilgrimage in this world of ■\voe, we must take things as they come and thank God tliey are no worse. K!^teerage mess No. 1 furnished the cook with aj-tples for dumj^lings which were served at dinner, but they were very unsavory in consequence of of having been boiled in salt water. The blacklegs have been busily at work again to-day. Toward night they came to grief One of the boys won $300, wdiicli bursted the bank! At sundown this evening, a passenger reported from the maintop-sail yard a sail on our lee-boAV, distant about 20 miles. Distance sailed, 41 miles. Lat. 31° 13'. Therm, at M. GS°. Friday, June 1. — The calm still continues, and during last night and to-day the brig has not made 10 miles on her course. The weather has been pleasant and the sea smooth. I have been pe- rusing a file of Boston papers brought on board by our first mate. They contain several letters w^ritten by the passengers of the steamer Crescent City on her first trip to Chagres. The letters were DELIGHTFUL WEATHER. 177 written at Cruces, Gorgona and Panama, and tlic writers all state that the climate is unhealthy, provisions scarce and sickness very prevalent — three cases of Asiatic cholera having occurred at Cruces. They regret having taken the Isthmus route, and recommend their friends who are about to start for California to go by the way of Cape Horn. My opinion is, that those who go by the way of Cape Horn will wish they had taken the Isthmus route! Distance sailed, 24 miles. Lat. 37° 07'. Therm, at M. 64°. Saturday, June 2. — We are still in the " horse latitudes," and the wind has been blowing a " Pad- dy's hurricane" during the past twenty-four hours. This is the first month of winter in this latitude, and the. weather is as mild and balmy as midsum- mer in the United States. As we approach our port of destination, fire-arms and mining implements increase rapidly in value. Twenty-five dollars has been offered and refused for revolvers that cost $10 in Philadelphia. A gold-washer that cost $6 was sold to-day for ^15, and I refused an offer of %?> for a hand-pick that cost me only fifty cents. I am waiting for an advance in the market before I unload. At meridian the sun was obscured by clouds, therefore no observation was taken. I imagine, however, that we are in the neighborhood of 30° south latitude. Distance sailed, by log, 23 miles. Therm, at M. 64°. Sunday, June 3. — Head-wind and very little of that. Our expectations of reaching the erpiator in fifteen days from Talcahuana have already van- 178 MAKING HASTE SLOWLY. ished like a dream. One week has elapsed since we left that port and we have made scarcely one- third of the distance. When the Osceola sailed from Philadelphia, we expected to reach San Fran- cisco in five months at the farthest. That time has nearly expired, and we are still nearly 6,000 miles from the land of ]3romise. It is now a fixed fact that our voyage will not be completed in less time than six months, with the chances in favor of its being prolonged beyond that time. Verily, the way of the California-bound passenger is hard. Distance sailed, 30 miles. Lat. 29° 46'. Therm, at M. Qb^. Monday, June 4. — Early last evening the wind died away, and during the remainder of the night and this forenoon we have been becalmed. At one o'clock this afternoon a fresh breeze sprang up from the south, which wafted us along at the rate of seven knots an hour until sundown, when we were again becalmed. The brig is rolling lazily; the sails are flapping against the masts and rigging, and the yards and booms are creaking and moaning fear- fully. Distance sailed, 70 miles. Lat. 28° AV. Therm, at M. 70°. Tuesday, June 5. — The wind has been very light during the past twenty-four hours, barely suflicient to keep steerage-way on the brig. This forenoon I tried my hand at washing soiled unmentionables, socks and towels, and succeeded beyond my most sanguine expectations. I was less fortunate in the dr^nng process, there being no clothes-line on which to hang my "wash." A convoy of Cape pigeons has followed the brig A GRAND SCENE. 170 from Staten Land, but the hot weather of the past few days is rapidly decreasing their number and driving them back to the icy region of Cape Horn. This afternoon the cabin passengers have amused themselves by playing monte and faro, and the steer- age j^assengers have killed time by firing their rifles and pistols at porter and wine bottles suspended from the yards. Distance sailed, 55 miles. Lat. 27° 51'. Therm, at M. 70°. Wednesday, June 6. — The weather to-day has been delightful, but the calm contirmes, and we are not happy. This morning I witnessed one of the grandest scenes of my life, and one that I shall jirobably never again behold. I beheld at the same moment the god of day lift his golden head above the waves of the ocean to resume his diurnal course, and the goddess of night, after having performed her wonted task, sink into the embrace of the great deep. It was a scene of great sublimity, and every soul on board gazed upon it Avitli feelings of reverence mingled with admiration. During the forenoon the stern-boat was lowered and manned by the passen- gers for the purpose of towing the brig. A line was made fast to the bowsprit and attached to the stern of the boat, and the boatmen plied their oars merrily for a couple of hours, but the brig moved so slowly that they became disheartened, and, casting off the line, gave three hearty cheers, and started on a private pleasure excursion. In about two hours they returned and the boat was soon filled with another party, who started on an ex^^loring expedition to the windward. In about an hour they returned 180 PASSENGERS HAVE A JOLLIFICATION. and informed us that during their voyage of dis- covery they had fallen in with the carcass of a sperm- whale, surrounded by myriads of boobies, gulls and Cape 2^igeons. The odors inhaled from his whale- shi}^ as he floated past us were not as pleasant and odoriferous as those wafted from " Ceylon's Isle." The carcass was escorted by a body-guard of sharks, and a retinue of sea-birds screamino- like devils in- carnate. Distance sailed, 49 miles. Lat. 27° 13'. Therm, at M. G9°. Thursday, June 7. — Last night, at eight o'clock, a light but fair breeze sprang up from the south, which we have carried all day with studding-sails set below and aloft. Last evening the passengers mustered on the quarter-deck for the purpose of having a dance. The " El Dorado Band " j^hayed a variety of lively airs, which were accompanied by the "light fan- tastic toes" of a majority of the passengers. At nine o'clock, P. M., Captain Fairfowl spread a col- lation in the after-cabin, to which all hands were invited. Distance sailed, 82 miles. Lat. 26° 03'. Therm, at M. 64°. Friday, June 8. — During last night and to-day we have been favored with a fair wind, and the brig at this time, six o'clock, P. M., is making five knots an hour. The weather has been cloudy all day, with strong indications of rain. Last night the steerage cook was ordered by the Captain to keep watch, which so exasperated him that he did not turn out this morning at the usual hour to commence his SET-TO BETWEEN CAPTAIN AND COOK. 181 culinary duties. The old skipper called liim aft and asked liim why he had not kindled a fire in the galley, as usual. He informed the Captain that he would not perform the duties of both cook and sailor — he shipped as cook, and would perform that duty only. He w^as ordered by the Captain to go forward and commence operations in the galley at once, but being rather dilatory in his movements, the old skipper seized a rope and commenced plying it briskly over his back and shoulders, at the same time ordering him to go forward, which command he obeyed very reluctantly. In a few moments he was again called aft by the Captain, who ordered the mate to seize him up in the main rigging for punishment. The cook informed the Captain that he was not on hoard a man-of-war, and would not submit to a flogging. The old skipper did not wait ujwn the order of going, but went for the knight of pots and kettles immediately, and for a few mo- ments there was a lively time on board the Osceola, with the following result : Captain knocked down and the cook placed in irons. At eleven o'clock, A. M., the Cajotain relented — hunger will tame a crow — released the cook and ordered him to re- sume his duty, and in future to behave himself like a man. The cook nodded assent, and will not knock the old skipper down again until he makes another attempt to flog him ! Distance sailed 94 miles. Lat. 24° 01'. Therm, at M. 68°. Saturday, June 9. — Throughout last night and to-day the brig has been skimming over the water 182 EQUAL DISTRIBUTION OF SUGAR. at the rate of ciglit knots an hour, with square yards and all studding-sails set. Our prospects of reaching California by the 20th of next month are now very promising. If we are not becalmed on the "line," we shall make an average run between Talcahuana and San Fran- cisco. The weather to-day has been damp, with an occasional sprinkling of rain. A¥e are now in the tropics, having crossed Capricorn this forenoon. This afternoon all the sugar on board the brig was taken aft and served out in equal portions to each individual on board. Each person received five and a half pounds — six weeks' allowance, accord- ing to the United States Naval ration. Since ^ye left Talcahuana the cabin passengers have been using the sugar rather extravagantly, which caused the Captain to divide it^^ro rata to-day. Distance sailed, 90 miles. Lat. 23° IG'. Therm, at M. 65°. CHAPTER XI. Sunday at sea — Light and l)afning winds — Man-of-war birds sliot — Fresh pork — Canchalagua pills — Passengers on their muscle — Crossing the equator — Old Neptune initiates one of the sailors — Bcd-liugs and fleas — Our old skipper under the weather — Fourth of July at sea — Jolly time and no whisky — Ship ahoy ! — Visit from the passengers of the ship Pacific — We treat them to salt pork and hard-tack — Later news from the land of gold — Captain Fairfowl has the dumps. Sunday, June 10. — During the last twenty-four hours we have been gliding along over a smooth sea, at the rate of nine knots an hour. A Scotch mist has been falling at intervals throughout the night and to-day. The day has passed away very quietly — some- thing unusual for Sunday. The sailors rigged themselves out in their Sunday toggery, and most of the passengers turned over a new leaf by putting on a " biled " shirt. At dinner, the steerage pas- sengers were treated by the cabin steward to mince- pies for dessert, and I will do the old darkey the justice to say they did him great credit. No ob- servation. Distance sailed, by log, 1G8 miles. Therm, at M. G8°. Monday, June 11. — A ten-knot breeze during the j)ast twenty-four hours has rendered all hands (183) 184 THE "trades" disappoint us. liappy. The "trades" were Hglit at first, but they have gradually increased to a ten-knot breeze, and should they continue ten days, we shall be north of the equator. The weather has been warm and hazy, reminding me of Indian Summer in Pennsylvania. This afternoon all the cheese on board the brig was served out in equal portions to the passengers, each receiving about two weeks' allowance. Distance sailed, 101 miles. Lat. 19° 59'. Therm, at M. GS°. Tuesday, June 12. — Last night we made an un- usually good run, but to-day the wind has been light and baffling. Strong indications of another calm are visible. This forenoon the members of the " Perseverance Mining Company" commenced work on a sail for their batteaux, which will save them many a tug at the oar. At one o'clock this afternoon, one of the jDassen- gers in the maintop reported a sail on our weather- bow, distant about 15 miles. The stranger is head- ing the same direction we are, and is most likely a California passenger vessel. Distance sailed, 150 miles. Lat. 19° 05'. Therm, at M. 70°. Wednesday, June 13. — All last night the wind was light and baffling, and before daylight the brig completely " boxed the compass." At eight o'clock, A. M., a light breeze sj^rang up from the south-west, which we have carried the balance of the day, but have made very little progress. For some unex- plained cause, the south-east "trades" have left us in the lurch, which is a great disappointment. AVe expected they would waft us to the equator. Two vessels heading north have been in sight all FAVORABLE WINDS. 185 day. Distance sailed, 40 miles. Lat. 18° 44'. Therm, at M. 70°. Thursday, Juiie 14. — Last night the wind con- tinued light and baffling, and early this morning it died away to a dead calm. At nine o'clock, A. M., a rain-squall suddenly sprang up from the south- west, and we have carried a five-knot breeze during the remainder of the day. The weather has been hazy and showery. One of the sailors who had the wheel during the morning watch, thinking that the time passed away ratlier slowly, removed the watch from the Ijinnacle and undertook to move the hands ahead, but being more accustomed to handling a marlin-e-sj^tike than a timepiece, he broke both hands. The watch was a gold lever belonging to one of the passengers, who read jack-tar a lecture in very forcible language. Distance sailed, 70 miles. Lat. 17° 38'. Therm, at M. 69°. Friday, June 15. — Fair wind and plenty of it during last night and to-day. The brig has been flying over the water before a ten-knot breeze. The yards are square and every drawing sail set — a sight that a sailor's eye delights to dwell upon, and one that is not unj)leasing to a landsman after. having been five months at sea. Tlie weather has been mild and pleasant. Distance sailed, 170 miles. Lat. 10° 03'. Therm, at M. 70°. Saturday, June IG. — The continued fair wind has sent the Osceola jumping through the water at the rate of ten knots an hour. If we are fortu- nate enough to escape a calm on the equator, and are blessed with this wind for thirty consecutive ISG PROFESSION'S AT A DISCOUNT. clays we sliall be at anchor in the harbor of San Francisco. The passengers are now organizing companies in order to be ready for action immediately upon their arrival in California. There are several professional gentlemen on board who, when they left Philadel- phia, informed their friends that they were going to California to practice their professions ; bnt they, too, have recently joined mining companies, believ- ing that they can jiut more money in their purses by handling the spade and pick, than by perusing musty law books or serving out potions of jalap, calomel and quinine. Several "man-of-war" birds were shot this afternoon by one of the cabin pas- sengers. Distance sailed, 191 miles. Lat. 14° 52'. Therm, at M. 74°. Sunday, June 17. — We are still blessed with a fair wind and delightful weather, and are gliding rajiidly along toward the land of promise. This morning the Captain expressed his intention of crossing the equator between 112° and 115° west longitude. Should we cross the line as far west as 115° we shall not be to the northward of it before this day week. This has been one of the most quiet Sabbaths passed on board the Osceola since she left Philadelphia. During the first four months of the voyage a growl on Sunday between the Captain and passengers or crew was looked for regularly, and I regret to state that we were seldom disappointed. Captain Fairfowl is one of those old sea-dogs who cannot survive without an occasional growl. Dis- SEWIN'G AND WASHING. 187 taiice sailed, 172 miles. Lat. 13° oG'. Tlierm. at M. 74°. Ilonday, June 18. — We have carried an eight- knot breeze throughout last night and to-day, and the weather has been delightfully pleasant. All hands, including the cook, are in good humor. Now that we are on the last quarter of our voyage, the passengers are busily engaged overhauling their tents and mining utensils. One of our mining comjoanies has been employed during the jiast two days making a tent of material purchased at I\io de Janeiro. Not being accustomed to the use of the palm and needle, they have made but very little progress. Distance sailed, 1G4 miles. Lat. 12° 01'. Therm, at M. 76°. Tuesday, June 19. — A favorable wind during the past twenty-four hours has wafted us along at the rate of nine knots an hour. The weather is gradu- ally becoming warmer — this being the hottest day experienced since we doubled Cape Horn. We shall in all probability soon have occasion to use the awnings and wind-sails, as the Aveather must necessarily be hot at this season of the year north of the equator. This afternoon the Captain opened his heart and ordered a hog killed, a portion of which will be made into a sea-pie to-morrow for the steerage pas- sengers. Distance sailed, 161 miles. Lat. 10° 21'. Therm, at M. 77°. Wednesday, June 20. — The wind continues fair, but is gradually growing lighter as we approach the equatorr This has been general washday with the 188 SLEEPING ON DECK. passengers. Lines stretclied across the deck are loaded with wet clothes, as also are the stays, rig- ging and spanker-boom. Salt-water soap is just now in great demand among the ivashermen — some exchanging shaving soap of a superior quality for the same bulk or weight of salt-water soaj^. One of the passengers, not being overstocked with dis- cretion, offered to sell his traveling-bag for two bars of salt-water soap, but he did not find a purchaser. I have been engaged to-day making a knapsack, which will no doubt be of great service to me in the gold diggings. Distance sailed, 160 miles. Lat. 8° 52'. Therm, at M. 79°. Thursday, June 21. — During last night and to- day the " trades " have wafted us along at the rate of eight knots an hour. We have carried the trade- winds for the last fifteen days, and hoj^e to hold them until we pass the equator. The sky has been cloudless and the weather hot, but not 02:)j)ressive. Last night several of the passengers "took uj) their beds and walked " on deck, where they slept until morning, undisturbed by bugs or fleas. This morning I treated myself to a dose of Captain Fair- fowl's famous Canchalagua pills, but what effect they will have remains to be seen. The CajDtain believes them to be a sovereign balm for all the ills that flesh is heir to. Distance sailed, 172 miles. Lat. 7° 28'. Therm, at M. 80°. Friday, June 22. — The wind throughout last niglit and to-day has been very light, and I fear that we shall be becalmed before we reach the equator. The weather has been hot and sultry. I HOT WEATHER AND HOT TEMPER. 189 with strong indications of rain. This forenoon I did my week's washing, and this afternoon have been engaged mending my okl clothes. At the commencement of the voyage I handled the needle very awkwardly, but practice and perseverance have enabled me to nse it quite satisfactorily. Dis- tance sailed, 152 miles. Lat. 5° 52'. Therm, at M. 81°. Saturday, June 23. — For the last twenty-four hours the wind has been fair but light, yet, with the aid of all drawing sails, we have made a very fair run. The weather has been cloudy all day. This evening a shower of rain fell, which has cooled the atmosphere considerably, and rendered the early part of the night unusually pleasant. Distance sailed, 140 miles. Lat. 4° 38'. Therm, at M. 86°. Hot as blazes ! Sunday, June 24. — Throughout last night and to-day we have been skimming over the water before a seven-knot breeze, with studding-sails set below and aloft. The atmosphere has been rather cooler, which has rendered the day very pleasant. We have passed several schools of flying-fish, but none have been cauglit. Now that the weather is growing warmer, the passengers are becoming as rabid as mad dogs. At breakfast, this morning, three altercations occurred — two in the after-cabin and one in the steerage. The steerage row commenced first, and passed off without any blows being struck. The first quarrel in the cabin resulted similarly ; but in the second melee a rough-and-tumble fight ensued, in which 190 ACROSS THE EQUATOR. a little bud blood Avas spilled. Distance sailed, 135 miles. Lat. 3° 02'. Therm, at M. 81°. Monday, June 25. — The "trades" still continue, and all last night and to-day we have been plough- ing through the water at the rate of seven knots an hour. The sky lias been cloudless and the weather pleasant. We are now near the equator, and hope to cross it before daylight to-morrow morning. We are half-way between Talcahuana and San Fran- cisco, with the prospect of reaching the latter place within twenty-five days. I have been on board the Osceola so long that every plank in her deck looks like an old acquaint- ance ; yet, as familiar as they appear, I am ex- tremely anxious to bid them farewell forever. Distance sailed, 150 miles. Lat. 0° 59'. Therm, at M. 82°. Tuesday, June 2G. — We carried a seven-knot breeze throughout last night and to-day, which has placed us IGO miles nearer our port of desti- nation. The weather during the day has been delightful. AVe crossed the equator at one o'clock this morning, in longitude 115° 40' west. When we crossed the dominious-of Nej^tune, the old salt visited us, and initiated one of the crew. The 2>assengers refused to submit to the operation. The soap used by Neptune on this occasion was highly perfumed with a compound of " villainous smells," and his razor was as dull as a lecture on woman's rights. Distance sailed, 152 miles. Lat. 1° OG' north. Therm, at M. 82°. Wednesday, June 27. — All last night and to-day UNWELCOME PASSENGEES. 191 the wind has been light and baffling, but the weather continues pleasant. We expected to meet with frequent showers on the equator, but thus far have been happily disaj^pointed. During the day the passengers have been lounging about the deck in the shade of the sails endeavoring to keep cool. A few days since one of the steerage j^assengers resolved to dispense with the use of tobacco henceforth and forever, and this morning he disposed of his stock of pipes and tobacco at a raffle. Distance sailed, 139 miles. Lat. 3° 12'. Therm, at M. 83°. Thursday, June 28. — Last night the wind hauled around to the southward and westward, and since that time we have been skimming along at the rate of seven knots an hour. The heat was very op2)ressive, but to-day we have been fanned by a delightful breeze, which has in a slight degree counteracted the effects of the heat. Since we left Talcahuana every berth in the brig has been over- run with bed-bugs and fleas, and the past two weeks our sufferings have been intolerable. To-day several of the passengers have been figuring out the date of our arrival in San Francisco. According to their ciphering we shall arrive there on the fifteenth of next month — if figures don't lie. Distance sailed, 162 miles. Lat. 5° 26'. Therm, at M. 82°. Friday, June 29. — The wind has been blowing steadily from the south-west all day, and we have encountered several squalls accompanied by rain, thunder and lightning. The wind has blown so fresh this afternoon that the Captain has taken in the studding-sails, furled the mainroyal and reefed 12 192 ROUGH WEATHER AND HEAD-WINDS. the foretop-gallant-sail. This is the first squally weather we have encountered the past two weeks, and it has somewhat surprised us, as we did not count on meeting rough weather during the balance of the passage, but we know not what the morrow may bring forth, particularly in these lati- tudes. This afternoon in working the brig one of the sailors through mistake let go the wrong hal- yard, which caused the old skipper to go for him with a rope's end, and afterward to put him in irons. We are now in the latitude of Panama. Distance sailed, 179 miles. Lat. 8° 18'. Therm, at M. 79°. Saturday, June 30. — Last night the wind hauled around to the northward, and to-day it has been light and baffling. Squalls, accompanied by rain, have been frequent during the day. I fear the next settled wind will prevent us from heading our course. If so, we must be content, for it is an ill wind that blows no one good. To- day considerable rain-water has been caught by the passengers, wliicli will prove quite a god-send, for to-morrow is washday. Captain Fairfowl has been quite unwell all day, and has remained in his berth most of the time. There is a rumor floating about the brig that he has been sampling drugged wine again. We are off Guatemala. The sun being ob- scured, no observation was taken. Distance sailed, by log, 130 miles. Therm, at M. 78°. Sunday, July 1. — Our good luck is failing us. During last night and to-day the wind has been unfavorable, which has headed us off our course five or six points. The weather has been clear, and TUHKEYS FOE, THE FOURTH. 193 the wind bracing and invigorating. The morning and forenoon passed off quietly, but this afternoon the Captain cursed the cabin passengers for insinu- ating that he had sampled the brandy in the doctor's medicine-chest. Liquor is getting scarce and the Captain is convalescing rapidly. In consequence of the indisposition of the old skipper no observa- tion was taken, but I j)resume that we are in the neio-hborhood of 13° north latitude. Distance sailed, as per log, 137 miles. Therm, at M. 81°. Monday, July 2. — Last night the wind was light and baf&irig, and to-day Ave have been becalmed. The weather has been hot and oppressive. The next wind that crosses our track will probably be the north-east "trades," the prevailing wind in these latitudes, and the sooner we meet with them the better; for, of all things on earth or ocean, a calm in the tropics is the most annoying. The old skipper is on his pins again, and to-day resumed his accustomed duty. One of his first acts w^as to release the sailor confined in irons on the 29th ult. Distance sailed, 97 miles. Lat. 13° 18'. Therm, at M. 82°. Tuesday, July 3. — During last night and to-day the ocean has been as smooth as a mirror, and the weather hot and sultry. Captain Fairfowl opened his heart this afternoon and presented to the steerage messes three turkeys, which will be served up for dinner to-morrow — the glorious Fourth ! Distance sailed, 1(3 miles. No observation. Therm, at M. 83°. Wednesday, July 4. — Fourth of July and a dead 194 FOURTH OF JULY AT SEA. calm in llie tropics, witli tlie thermometer at 83° in the shade ! This day being tlie seventy-third anni- versary of American independence, all hands con- cluded to celebrate the event in a becoming manner. Accordingly, at daylight, the ensign, union-jack and pennant were spread to the breeze, a salute of small arms fired, and at ten o'clock, A. M., a meet- ing was organized, Dr. George Guier, Jr., presiding, supported by six vice-presidents, myself being one of the number. A secretary was ajipointed, and a committee selected to prepare the regular toasts for the occasion. After the reading of the Declaration of Independence, by Col. James A. Banks, another salute was fired, and the meeting adjourned until three o'clock, P. M. Having partaken of the best dinner the Osceola could spread, we met at the appointed hour to conclude the festivities of the day. Thirteen I'cgular toasts ap^^ropriate to the occasion were read by the president, which were loudly cheered by the assemblage. The intervals between the toasts were enlivened by appropriate music by the El Dorado band and several jDatriotic songs by the " O Susan- nah Serenaders." The regular sentiments were succeeded by some fifty volunteer toasts, many of which were rich, rare and racy, and called down thunders of applause. Tlie regular and volunteer toasts having been read. Colonel Banks, in compliance with a request from the president, delivered an eloquent address, creditable alike to his head and heart. The colonel was followed by two other passengers, one of whom FLEEING FKOM FLEAS. 195 recited an Ode to the American Flag, and the other attempted to make a speech hut, poor fellow, he got stuck ! and in order to relieve him from his awkward predicament, a friend moved an adjournment sine die, which was unanimously carried. At sundown, when the colors were hauled down, another salute was fired and three hearty cheers given, which aroused the fishes and caused old Nep- tune to send back the echo ; and thus ended the 4th of July, 1849, at sea! Everything passed off quietly and soberly. There was no liquor on board ! Distance sailed, 20 miles. Lat. 13° 41'. Therm, at M. 83°. T/tu7'sda'f/, July 5. — The calm continued last night, but this forenoon a light breeze sprang up from the north-west, and although dead ahead, was hailed with joy by all hands on board, as a breeze from any quarter is preferable to a calm. Last night I was so terribly annoyed by that lively and ubiquitous little "animile," the flea, that I was compelled to vacate my bunk and go on deck. The rays of a tropical sun have been concentrated all day on my mattress and blankets, and I have also given the latter a salt-water douche. I hope that the sun and salt-water combined have given the fleas their eternal quietus. This forenoon, a ship, supposed to be a homeward- bound whaler, was reported on our lee-bow, distant about 15 miles. This is the first vessel reported during four weeks. For reasons best known to the Captain no observation was taken to-day. Distance sailed, per log, 9 miles. Therm, at M. 81°. 196 THE SHIP PACIFIC. Friday, July 6. — During last niglit and to-day tlierc lias not been sufficient wind to fill the sails, consequently tliey liave been flapping listlessly against the masts and rigging. The sky has been unclouded and the weather oppressive. Early this morning we discovered on our lee- quarter a full-rigged ship, distant about 15 miles. About two o'clock, P. M., a small sail, in the direc- tion of the stranger, was seen approaching us, and when distant about 4 miles, our stern-boat was lowered and manned by passengers, who pulled merrily away toward the boat, which could now be distinctly made out without the aid of a glass. In about forty minutes our boat returned, accompanied by the metallic life-boat Crusoe, belonging to and manned by seven of the passengers of the California passenger ship Pacific, which sailed from New York on the 23d of January last. We left the Pacific in Kio de Janeiro, whence she sailed on the 3d of April, touching at Callao for water and provisions, sailing thence on the 8th of June. At the latter place intelligence from California down to the 1st of May had been received, which confirmed all previous reports in regard to the richness of the gold mines in that country. Our guests joartook of a collation of salt pork and hard-tack, lubricated with a little brandy from the doctor's medicine-chest, and at five o'clock, P. M., bade us adieu, and entering their boat, were soon gliding over the water toward their vessel, which was now distant about 10 miles. When our friends shoved off three hearty cheers II THE GOLD FEVER EEVIVED. 197 were given by us, which were returned with a wilh At sundown our visitors were within a mile of tlieir ship, which tliey probably reached before dark. They are a jolly, whole-souled set of fellows, and deserve success. Distance sailed, 12 miles. Lat. 14° 06'. Therm, at M. 82°. Saturday, July 7. — Some time during last night a breeze sprang up from the north, which we have carried throughout the day. We have been look- ing for the north-east "trades" during the past eight days, but have not yet found them. *' Hope deferred maketh the heart sick." Either a head- wind or a dead-calm has been the order of the day the past week, and how long this will continue remains to be seen. The news received from California by the visitors from the PaclJiG has renewed the gold fever, and all hands on board are more or less affected by it. One of the sailors went aloft this morning and scanned the horizon with a glass, but not a solitary sail could be seen. Distance sailed, 47 miles. Lat. 13° bb'. Therm, at M. 80°. Sunday, July 8. — Last night the wind com- menced hauling to the westward, and during the day we have been heading the course laid down by the Captain, and running before a strong south- west wind at the rate of six knots an hour. A strong head-sea has been running during the day, which has somewhat impeded our progress. We are now about 1,300 miles distant from the Golden Gate, with a fair wind that would waft us there in eight days, if the brig were allowed to 198 THE captain's obstinacy. head tlio proper course; but our Captain is afHieted with the dumps, and is as obstinate as a mule. He will steer any course in preference to the correct one, which will probably prolong our voyage another month. He informed one of the passen- gers to-day that we would not reach San Francisco before the 10th of August. A cold, drizzling rain has been falling all day. Distance sailed, 100 miles. Lat. 15° 20', Therm, at M. 78°. CHAPTER XII. Our last porker slaughtered — Cold weather in the tropics — Off Lower California — The Captain predicts a fair wind — Will wine vinegar inebriate ? — I'rovisions and water scarce — Head-winds — First mate ordered below — ]]ncountcr a squall — The cook and cabin steward have a free fight — Fog and Scotch mist — Drift-wood — Brig ahoy ! — Visit from the mate of the brig Spencer — Land ho ! — Farallonc Islands — Come to anchor outside the Golden Gate. llonday, July 9. — Tlie wind continued fair last night, and throughout to-dny we liave l)CC'n steering north-west by west with all studding-sails set. The wind is gradually hauling around to the eastward, and I should not be surprised if we were to fall in with the north-east "trades" within forty-eight hours. The weather has been clear and pleasant, and the passengers have spent most of the day on deck. We are to-day olf the coast of Mexico. Distance sailed, 110 miles. Lat. 17° 04'. Therm, at M. 81°. Tuesday, July 10. — Last night the wind hauled around to the south-east, and during the day it has changed to the north-east, from which quarter it is still blowing quite fresh. We have been heading north-west by west all day, and running at the rate of eight knots an hour. The weather up to three o'clock, P. M., has been warm and pleasant, but from that time to the present (199) 200 OVERCOATS IN JULY IN THE TROPICS. writing, eight o'clock, P. M., the mercury in the thermometer has fallen from 81° to 72°, and the atmosphere is damp and chilly. The last two nights a heavy dew has fallen, which has thoroughly wet the deck and rigging. Our last 23orker was slaughtered to-day ; therefore, we may expect a good dinner to-morrow. Our last pig is slaughtered For to-morrow's sea-stew, And we'll go for that porker Like Yankees, true blue ! Distance sailed, 139 miles. Lat. 19° 03'. Therm, at M. 72°. Wednesday, July 11. — Throughout last night and to-day we have been wafted along by the north-east "trades" at the rate of eight knots an hour; but the brig is still heading north-west by west, although we are two degrees to the westward of our port of destination! The weather is damp and chilly, re- minding one more of fall in the United States than midsummer in the troi^ics. The thermometer this evening is down to 70°, and overcoats are in de- mand among the ]3assengers. The past two days the members of the " Perseverance Mining Com- pany" have been employed painting their boats, in order to be in readiness for a start up the Sacra- mento immediately upon their arrival in San Fran- cisco. Distance sailed, 172 miles. Lat. 20° 50'. Therm, at M. 78°. Thursday, July 12. — "We are still being driven to the north-west by the "trades" at the rate of CROSSING THE TROPIC OF CANCER. 201 seven knots an hour. The Captain regrets not having steered a northerly course at the commence- ment of this week, when he had the opportunity. Sliould the jDresent wind continue until we reach the latitude of San Francisco, by steering our present course we shall be some 1,200 miles to the westward of that port. Although directly under the sun, the atmosphere is quite chilly. We are this evening off Cape St. Lucas, the southern- most i^oint of Lower California. Yesterday we exchanged colors with a Chilian ship bound to the southward. Distance sailed, 148 miles. Lat. 22° 20'. Therm, at M. 70°. Friday, July 13. — A head-wind to-day has pre- vented us from steering within six points of our course. There is a variation of the compass of about one point in our favor, but this is nearly, if not quite, overbalanced by the lee-way occasioned by a strong head-sea that has been running the past five days. The weather is so cold that the passen- gers have dressed themselves cap-a-pie in their Cape Horn clothes, in order to keep comfortable when on deck. The month of October in Philadelphia is more mild and pleasant than have been the past five days in the tropics. This forenoon we crossed the Tropic of Cancer, and if we are permitted to steer our course during the next six days, we shall at the expiration of that time be at anchor in the Bay of San Francisco. Distance sailed, 134 miles. Lat. 23° 5&. Therm, at M. 68°. Saturday, July 14. — The wind is still north-east. 202 A QUIET SABBATH. but is gnuliially golting liglilcM", and I lio])C will soon (lie away or haul nrouud (o the W08tvvurd. Tlio (^aptaiii prodicts a fair \viud Avidiiii the next Ibrty-eight hours, but little faith can be placed in his opinion, in consequence of his having so often proven hiins(>lf a. i'alse prophet. The lu>ad-winds which have j^revailed during the past AY(H>k have given all hands the bines, and they move si lent ly about the deck Avith (>longated visages, reminding one very nuich of a disconsolate widow or a young married man with a strong-minded mother-in-law. Distance sailed, 118 miles, l^at. 25° 25'. Therm, at U. 08°. /Sinidai/, Juhj 15. — Last night the wind veered a little to the northward, and to-day we have been heading nearly a due west course. The Avind has been very light, and all on board are inclined to the belief that it will haul around to the W(>stward very soon or die away entirely. The sun has been obscured by clouds nearly all day, and the weather has been chilly and unpleasant. This Sabbath has ]>assed ofl' very quietly, neither a liirht nor a jirowl haviuix occurred — an unusual ciri'umstance. One of the passengers of the Irish jHMsuasion, lunvever, not having the fear of Father Mathew before his eyes, managed this evening to get glorltnisly drunk on wine vinegar, but he is very docile. This morning at sunrise the mercury in the thermometer was down to (SQt°. Distance sailed, 12C) miles. Lai. 2G° 33'. Therm, at U. 08°. Jloinhii/, Juhj 10. — AVe are still wrestling with an adverse wind, and the weather is damp and PEOSPECT OF SHOKT RATIONS. 203 chilly. We are now in longitude 180° west, and the Captain says he will put the brig on another tack to-morrow and run direct for the Golden Gate. A box of clothing belonging to one of the jias- sengers, stowed in the hold since we left E,io, was oj^ened to-day and its contents found to be very much injured by mould and mildew. Distance sailed, 88 miles. Lat. 27° 12'. Therm, at M. 69°. Tuesday, July 17. — Last night the wind hauled around to the northward and eastward, and since that time we have been heading north-west, but in consequence of being so close on the wind we have made very little progress. The wind is dead ahead, and so good-bye. Ban Francisco, until it changes. The sun has been obscured by clouds nearly all day, and tlie weather continues chilly and disagreeable. Provisions are getting scarce — some articles being entirely exhausted. The hold was broken out to- day for jiork, but not a single barrel could be found. The sugar and cheese are also among the things that were but are not, and the water is nearly all gone. The truth of the matter is, we are in one of those predicaments sometimes narrated but not often experienced. Distance sailed, 87 miles. Lat. 27° 48'. Therm, at M. G8°. Wednesday, July 18. — Last night the wind hauled back to the northward, and this forenoon it veered still farther around and resumed its old position in the north-east. This afternoon we have been head- ing north-west, but owing to a head-sea have made very little progress. If the wind continues in the north-east during the next eight days, we shall be 204 MAKING THE BEIG SHIP-SHAPE. compelled to run as far westward as 140° before we tack the brig and run for our jDort of destination. The weather this forenoon was quite winterish. At meridian the clouds that have shrouded the sky the past week broke away, and the sun shone brightly for about two hours. The latter part of the day has been squally, with occasional showers. The crew has been employed to-day painting the brig. Distance sailed, 84 miles. Lat. 28° 53'. Therm, at M. 68°. Thursday, July 19. — During last night and to- day the wind has been blowing steadily from the north-east, and we have been sailing as close- hauled as possible. The weather has been cloudy, damp and chilly, and all hands have the dumps. How long we shall be knocked about by adverse winds, is one of those things that no "feller" can find out. At meridian San Francisco bore north- east by north, distant 800 miles. The crew has been reeving new signal-halyards, repairing the side- ladders, and doing other odd jobs, in order to get the brig "ship-shape" before reaching port. Distance sailed, 112 miles. Lat. 30° 15'. Therm, at M. Q^°. Friday, July 20. — The north-east trades still continue, which prevents us from heading higher than north-west by north. We did not expect to carry the trades farther north than latitude 28°, but in this, as well as in many other things, we have been sadly disajDpointed. I have now come to the conclusion that we are booked for a passage of two hundred days! This morning Captain Fairfowl ordered his first FAVORABLE WIND FOR FIFTEEN MINUTES. 205 officer below. Tliis is the fifth officer the ohl skip- ]Der has j)ut off duty since we sailed from Phila- delphia. Should he ever be fortunate enough to obtain command of another vessel, I would advise him to shi]^ at least a gross of mates. He would find use for all of them before the expiration of a voyage of ninety days. Distance sailed, 100 miles. Lat. 31° 38'. Therm, at M. 68°. Saturday, July 21. — Last night the wind hauled a point to the eastward, and to-day we have been steering N. N. W. We shall probably be in the latitude of San Francisco on Wednesday next. The Captain will then tack the brig and stand to the eastward, wind permitting. Last night the moon dispersed the clouds, and to-day the atmosphere has been clear and the weather cool. Three laro;e sea-birds have followed the brig for the ^^ast three weeks, and during that time at least fifty shots have been fired at them by the passengers without effect. They appear to bear charmed lives. At all events, they are shot and bullet-proof. Distance sailed, 108 miles. Lat. 33° 11'. Therm, at M. 67°. Sunday, July 22. — All last night and up to six. o'clock, P. M., to-day, the wind has bloAvn steadily from the north-east, and the brig has been heading a north-by- west course. At seven o'clock this evening the wind hauled around to the south-east, which has enabled us to lay our course for the space of fifteen minutes, when it hauled back to its old quarter in the north-east, where it still remains. The sun has been obscured by clouds nearly all 206 HOPING rOE A FAIR WIND. day, whicli lias rendered the atmosphere chilly. We are now in the same latitude as San Luis Obispo, Upper California, and at meridian to- morrow we shall probably be off Monterey. Early this morning the Captain reported a vessel on our weather-bow, distant about 15 miles, and in two hours afterw^ard it could not be seen. It w^as probably a California-bound steamer. Distance sailed, 122 miles. Lat. 35° 01'. Therm, at M. 67°. Monday, July 23. — Last night the wind was light and baffling, and to-day the face of the great deep has been unruffled by a breeze. We have lost the north-east trades, and I hoj^e the next wind we fall in wdtli w^ill be a fair one, for things are getting rather monotonous. The weather has been warmer than on any previous day the j)ast two wrecks. I availed myself of the sunshine, and washed and dried sundry shirts and towels. Several turtles have been seen floating on the surface of the w^ater at no great distance from the brig. As we shall not run much farther to the northward, I will, during the remainder of the voyage, record longi- tude, as Avell as the latitude. Distance sailed, 72 miles. Lat. 36° 11'; long. 139° 02' west. Therm, at M. 73°. Tuesday, July 24. — Throughout last night and to- day the w^ind has been light and baffling, and a part of the time we have been becalmed. The entire day has been a succession of variable breezes and calms. This morning at eight o'clock the brig was put about three times in about the time it requires to record the fact, and on the last tack she headed her course HOPES PARTIALLY EEALIZED. 207 twenty minutes. We find that we have only twenty- five clays' water on board, which causes things to look rather squally. We are now on an allowance of two quarts of water j)er day, which allows us only one pint each for drinking, and if we do not soon get a fair wind this quantity will be reduced one-half Distance sailed, 18 miles. Lat. 36° 29'; long. 139° 08'. Therm, at M. 68°. Wednesday, July 25. — The calm of yesterday con- tinued throughout last night. Early this morning the wind commenced hauling to the southward, and at this time, eight o'clock, A. M., it is blowing from the south-west. Although the wind has been light, by the aid of studding-sails we have managed to make about three knots an hour. Captain Fairfowl is of the opinion that the present wind will waft us into port. God grant that it may, for our water and provisions are getting very scarce, and much suffer- ing will occur should the voyage be prolonged an- other month. Distance sailed, 42 miles. Lat. 37° 12'; long. 139° 10'. Therm, at M. 70°. Thursday, July 26. — The wind increased grad- ually last night, and up to four o'clock this after- noon we have been heading our course at the rate of six knots an hour with studding-sails set below and aloft. This afternoon at five o'clock we encountered a squall accom2:)anied by rain, during which the wind hauled around to the north, and is blowing an eight-knot breeze from that quarter. This forenoon the cabin cook and steward had a rough-and-tumble fight about their relative positions, in which both parties were severely pummeled. 13 208 THREE PINTS OF WATER PER DAY. The cook gave the steward a whack on his cabasa with the potato-masher, and the latter returned the compliment with his fists so effectually that in a few moments the cook's figure-head was sadly dis- figured — it is doubtful whether his mother would recognize him. Distance sailed, 70 miles. Lat. 37° 52'; long. 137° 57'. Therm, at M. 74°. Friday, July 27. — All last night we headed our course and ran at the rate of six knots an hour. At ten o'clock this forenoon the wind hauled around to the north-east which headed us off, and the Cap- tain -^ni the brig about and ran to the north-west until three o'clock, P. M., when the wind hauled a little more to the northward, and the brig w^as again jDut about, but on this tack she could not lay within two points of her course, in consequence of the \'ari- ations of the compass and the lee-way, which were both against her. The weather during the day has been damp and chilly, the mercury in the ther- mometer having fallen ten degrees within the j)ast twenty-four hours. Yesterday all hands w^ere very much elated with the prospect of reaching San Francisco in the course of four or five days, but the sudden change in wind and weather to-day has saddened their hearts, and they look as crest-fallen as disappointed politicians. We are on an allowance of three ^^ints of water each. Distance sailed, 142 miles. Lat. 37° 30'; long. 135° 30'. Therm, at M. G4°. Saturday, July 28. — At midnight last night the brig was put about, and she ran north-west by west until ten o'clock this forenoon, when she was put on THIRTEEN CASKS OF WATER FOUND. 209 the otlier tack, and since tliat time lias been heading east bj north, within one point of our course. The wind is hauHng slowly to the westward, and I am inclined to the belief that we will be heading our course before to-morrow morning. A fair wind would carry us into our port of destination in three days, but the wind in these latitudes is so fickle that very little reliance can be placed upon it. This afternoon a general search was made in the hold for water, and, to our great joy, we find that there are thirteen casks on board, being thirty days' allowance at the rate of two quarts for each person. Distance sailed, 87 miles. The sun was obscured at meridian, consequently no observation was taken. Therm, at M. 65°. Sunday, July 29. — Early last night the wind hauled to the north-west, and since that time we have been running our course at the rate of six knots an hour. A heavy head-sea has been run- ning all day, which has somewhat retarded our pro- gress. The cold weather and rough sea causes reminis- cences of Cape Horn to flit through the mind. Owing to the favorable wind the Caj^tain has added a pint of water to our daily allowance. Cloudy weather ; no observation. Distance sailed, per log, 86 miles. Therm, at M. 62°. Ifonday, July 30. — During last night and to-day we have been heading our course and jogging slowly along at the rate of four knots an hour. Were it not for the strong head-sea constantly butting against the bow of the brig, our speed 210 TOKENS OF LAND. would be increased at least two knots an lionr. We are also close-hauled on the wind, which somewhat retards our 2)rogress. Our hearts were gladdened this forenoon by the appearance of the sun for the first time in two days. Toward the close of the afternoon the weather be- came thick and foggy, and at this time, eight o'clock, P. M., a Scotch mist is falling which will probably turn into rain before morning. At meridian to-day, San Francisco bore due east, dis- tant 383 miles. Distance sailed, war(.]s of two hours, I reached the window and received three letters and a JV^ew York Herald, containing my letter written for that paper at Kio. I clutched the letters with a nervous hand and with fear and trembling broke the seals and glanced hurriedly over their contents. They contained intelligence from the States up to the month of June, and, when I learned that the loved ones in their far-away home were all well, my heart leaped with joy. On my way down to the Plaza I met several of my fellow-passengers on their way to the post-office. When I informed them that it would require half a day to reach the deli very- window, a disconsolate Dutchman, from one of the interior counties of Pennsylvania, ejacu- lated, " Mine Got in himmel ; vat a tyfel of a country dis isli !" I consoled him with the idea that the farther he went, the worse he would prob- ably fare. In the afternoon I visited the encampment of the gold-diggers in Hap^^y Valley, for the purpose of selecting a site on which to pitch my tent. On the following day I moved my luggage ashore, and BEACH OF VERBA BUENA COVE, 1849. POST-OFFICE. 1849. 219 EMPLOYMENT AT $8 PEE, DAY. 221 located myself among tlie sojourners there. My provisions and mining implements were soon landed from the Osceola, and I made the necessary arrange- ments for spending a few weeks in San Francisco as comfortably as possible. I learned from the exj)erienced in such matters, that the water in the tributaries of the Sacramento and San Joaquin was too higli to admit of working in the wet diggings to advantage, and that the dry diggings could not be successfully worked until late in the fall, after the rainy season had set in. I therefore concluded to remain in San Francisco until the middle of Sep- tember. The limited state of my finances — six dol- lars and seventy-five cents, all told — would not admit of my remaining idle during the interim, therefore I immediately set out in quest of employment. Passing down Pacific Street tovfard Clark's Point, I saw several of my fellow-j)assengers engaged shoveling and wheeling dirt, at $5 23er day. I applied for a situation, but was informed there was no vacancy. I soon after obtained a situation in the lumber-yard of Palmer, Cook & Co., at |8 a day, which I held until I had raised the requisite funds to defray my expenses to the mines. Some old fossil has said or written, jDerhaps both, that " poverty is no disgrace ;" but to a person with a diaphragm and an appetite, it is very unpleasant and depressing, with the following bill of fare staring him in the face : *' Beefsteak, $1 ; coffee, 75 cents ; bread, with butter, 50 cents !" San Francisco — formerly Yerba Buena — is a queer place. It contains at this time a dozen adobe 222 SECURITY OF LIFE AND PROPERTY. structures and perhaps two luindreJ rougiilv-con- structed frame buildings, mostly shipped around Cape Horn. The beach, Happy Valley, for the space of two miles, is covered with canvas and rubber tents, and the adjacent sand-hills are dotted to their summits with these frail but convenient tenements of the prospective miner. The popula- tion, numbering perhaps five thousand, is as hetero- geneous as their habitations. It seems as though every nation on the face of the earth had sent a representative to this place, and that they had all arrived with their credentials. Such a medley of languages and jargon of tongues the world has seldom seen. It is a modern Babel. Yet, para- doxical as it may seem, it is nevertheless true, that life and property are as secure here as in the cities of New York, Boston or Philadelphia, and fire-arms are seldom carried as weapons of defense by either citizens or strangers. The commission of a theft is a rare occurrence, although millions of doUai's' worth of merchandise is " Ivins; around loose" and unguarded. The raid by the citizens on the " Hounds," a gang of cut-throats and thieves, and the incarceration of five of the ringleaders on board the U. IS. sloop-of-war Warrenj some four weeks previous to our arrival, has completely revo- lutionized aifairs in San Francisco and placed a wholesome check on roguery. It is universally conceded in this country, that hanging is not one of the " Lost Arts," and, so long as Judge Lynch shall continue to occupy the bench, justice will be meted out with an impartial hand. 'l/i"|||ffl l,||l||„ |\,\,A\A^i GAMBLING. 225 Tliero are lying ut aiiclior in the liarbor of San Francisco at tliis time, lour U. S. vessels of war and upwards of two hundred sail of merchantmen, most of the latter being without crews, the gold fever having carried them ojf to the mines. Ilents are enormously high. The Parker House, the principal hotel in town, rents for one hundred and seventy- five thousand dollars 2)er annum ! Tlie tenants are principally gamblers, who, in some instances, pay as high as |1,000 per month for the privilege of running a montr qy faro table. The roulette, heno, rattle-and-suap and other small-fry gamblers \YAy less amounts, but I am inclined to the belief that they put as much money in their purses as do their more aristocratic neighbors. The gaming-tables are always crowded with those who have no better sense than to stake their last ounce of dust on the " hazard of a die." If the fickle goddess smiles on them, well and good ; if she frowns, and they lose the last farthing in their possession, they immedi- ately hie away to tlie mines, and after having filled tlieir l)uckskin pouches .with the " dust," return and buck against faro and monte until their purses are again depleted, and then once more to the mines to retrieve their lost fortunes. In ninety-nine cases out of every hundred, the more an individual puts down on a gaming-table the less he takes up. In the Parker House and El Dorado, full brass bands are engaged at a cost of several hundred dollars a night to draw victims into their toils — " Step into my parlor, said the spider to tlie fly." 226 QUICK SALES AND LIGHT PROFITS. Pyramids of golden nuggets of various sizes, ag- gregating in value thousands of dollars, are dis- played on the gambling-tables to excite the avarice and cupidity of the unwary. Mrs. Grundy has not yet arrived here, conse- quently social and society lines have not been strictly drawn. One man is equally as good as another, and in some instances a little better. Every one seems fully impressed with the belief that it is either "root hog or die" — the majority root! All seem to be working harmoniously on the same plane. A graduate of Yale considers it no disgrace to sell peanuts on the Plaza, a disciple of Coke and Blackstone to drive a mule-team, nor a New York poet to sell the New York Tribune at 50 cents a coj^y. Mechanical labor commands from $12 to $16 per da}^, and common laborers receive from $6 to $8 per day. Provisions and building materials are exorbitantly high, but clothing and dry-goods are selling as low as in the States. An article in demand will sell at any price your conscience will allow you to ask for it. I sold a force-pump that cost $40 in Philadelphia to a Californian for $175, and he considered that he got it remarkably cheap, as he afterwards informed me. I assured him that I was perfectly satisfied, and that my motto in business was, quick sales and light profits. Tlie climate of San Francisco, though reputed healthy, is not agreeable to the unacclimated. The mornings and evenings during the spring and sum- mer months are damp and chilly, and at meridian the thermometer is usually somewhere in the neighbor- JiJaii|-^i-^£^' .li-JLii^^^t t, +' i.^ PARKER HOUSE AND DENNISON'S EXCHANGE, 1849. INTERIOR OF EL DORADO SALOON, 1850. 227 THE CLIMATE. 229 hood of 80°. A heavy dew falls at night, which renders woolen clothing requisite during the summer months. Were it not for the heavy rains, the winter months would be the most delightful part of the year. Between the rains the atmosphere is as mild and balmy as June in the Atlantic States. I find that summer clothing is of no manner of use here. In the mines the dew, I am informed, is very light during the spring, summer and fall, and the climate approximates nearer to our own. On the 4th of Sej)tember I began to make the necessary arrangements for my departure to the mines. I exchanged my large sea-chest for a trunk, which I packed full of clothing and placed in a store-house, with the understanding that I should .2:)ay tlirce dollars 'per month storage or forfeit the trunk and its contents at the expiration of six months. The only articles of clothing I selected to take to the mines were two red flannel shirts, a pair of pilot-cloth pants, a pair of long mining boots and a Mexican somhrero. I disposed of all my provisions, with the exception of a half-barrel of pork and a barrel of pilot-bread, which I concluded would serve for my subsistence until I could dig gold enough to replenish my stores. It was several days before I could determine whether to visit the northern or southern mines. I had heard nothing of the southern mines 2>i"^vious to my arrival in California, they having been discovered several months after the first gold was found by Marshall at Sutter's Mill. The southern mines are reported more healthy than the northern and equally rich, 230 OFF FOR THE MINES. therefore I concluded to give them the first trial. Accordingly, on the morning of the 6th of Septem- her, I engaged passage on hoard the brigantine Rambler, Captain Dunham, bound for Stockton, on the San Joaquin Kivcr, distant from San Francisco 160 miles. The Rambler belonged to Palmer, Cook & Co., owners of the lumber-yard in which I had been employed most of the time since my ar- rival in San Francisco, consequently they charged me only $16 passage to Stockton. During the forenoon I struck my tent and re- moved it, together with my provisions, on board the Rambler. At one o'clock, P. M., accompanied by two of the Oseeola^s jiassengers, I went on board the brig, where I found some thirty adventurers en route to the southern mines. We hove up an- . clior at two o'clock, and at sundown the wind died entirely away, and we came to anchor in San Pablo Bay, where we remained during the night. We got under way at an early hour on the following morning, and during the forenoon passed Benicia, Boston and New York of the Pacific. The latter place Avas surveyed and laid out in blocks, with streets crossing each other at right-angles, by its original proprietor, Colonel J. Stevenson, of the New York Begiment of California Volunteers. It contains a solitary frame building, and I fear it will never rival its Atlantic namesake, either in popula- tion or wealth. At two o'clock, P. M., we left Suisun Bay and entered the San Joaquin Biver. The wind and tide being favorable, we made a good run during A MOSQUITO KAID. 233 the afternoon, and when the tide turned came to anchor for the night. When the sun went down behind the tides that night the mosquitoes rose up. They swoojDed down u^on us like the locusts of Egyjit, with a determi- nation to devour every green thing. There were several on board the brig, and the mosquitoes seemed to know it. They didn't wait upon the order of coming, but they came in platoons, regi- ments and brigades, and their music made night hideous. We stood up manfully against fearful odds, and fought with a desperation worthy of a better cause. We proposed an armistice, then a treaty of peace with indemnity — anything to stop the flow of blood; but our adversaries presented their bills so often that we found it impossible to liquidate their claims, and as a last resort beat a hasty retreat into the hold of the brig and fastened down the hatches. Either side of the San Joaquin, from its en- trance into Suisun Bay to within a few miles of Stockton, is bordered by a continuous tule marsh, and during the summer and fall all the mosquitoes in California hold high carnival here. Early on the morning of the 8th we proceeded up the river with a fair wind and favorable tide. Before night we came to the conclusion that our brig was either too large for the river, or the river too small for the brig. Our Captain knew very little about seamanship), and less about the channel, therefore the brig ran aground several times during the day. Whenever-she grounded on a sand-bar or a mud- 14 234 AREIVAL IN STOCKTON. flat, a rope was made f\ist to the taffrail and all hands went ashore among the tides and mosquitoes and pulled her off. Captain Dunham being of an irritable disj^osition, and never having experienced religion in tlie natural way, nor taken any stock in early piety, made things on board the Rambler extremely lively for all hands. The exercise of pulling the brig off of mud -flats became monoto- nous before night, and the passengers rebelled. The Captain's remarks being more forcible than j)olite or convincing, we refused to obey his com- mands, and he tied up the brig for the night within 15 miles of Stockton. In nearly every bend of the river, whicli is as crooked as a Vir- ginia fence, we started a flock of ducks. I shot several during the day. At five o'clock next morning we got under way and proceeded up the river to the mouth of the slough on which Stockton is situated, where we again grounded, but got off without much difliculty, and at four o'clock, P. M., reached Stockton. On my departure from San Francisco, I had re- ceived from Mr. George W.Wright, the junior part- ner of the firm of Palmer, Cook & Co., a letter of introduction to a merchant in Stockton, of the name of Leland, whose acquaintance I made immediately U23on landing, and was invited by him to remove my baggage on board his store-shijo, tied uj) at the bank of the slough, and consider it my home as long as I remained in that place. I gladly availed myself of his kind invitation, which was also ex- tended to my two companions, the brothers Kelly, 234 AEEIVAL IN STOCKTON. flat, a rope was made fast to the taffrail and all hands Avent ashore among the tides and mosquitoes and pulled her off. Captain Dunham being of an irritable disposition, and never having experienced religion in the natural way, nor taken any stock in early piety, made things on board the Rambler extremely lively for all hands. The exercise of pulling the brig off of mud-flats became monoto- nous before night, and the passengers rebelled. The Captain's remarks being more forcible than polite or convincing, we refused to obey his com- mands, and he tied up the brig for the night within 15 miles of Stockton. In nearly every bend of the river, which is as crooked as a Vir- ginia fence, we started a flock of ducks. I shot several during the day. At five o'clock next morning we got under way and proceeded w^ the river to the mouth of the slough on which Stockton is situated, where we again grounded, but got off without much difficulty, and at four o'clock, P. M., reached Stockton. On my departure from San Francisco, I had re- ceived from Mr. George W. Wright, the junior part- ner of the firm of Palmer, Cook & Co., a letter of introduction to a merchant in Stockton, of the name of Leland, whose acquaintance I made immediately upon landing, and was invited by him to remove my baggage on board his store-ship, tied up at the bank of the slough, and consider it my home as long as I remained in that place. I gladly availed myself of his kind invitation, which was also ex- tended to my two companions, the brothers Kelly, 238 SUCCESS AND DISAPPOINTMENT. nent business men several Pliiladelpliians, among "wliom are Messrs. Gillingliam and Henry Hugg. During my brief sojourn in Stockton, miners were constantly arriving from the different diggings, some in quest of 2:)rovisions, and others en route to San Francisco for the purpose of returning to the States by the first conveyance. Those who had gone to the mines with the determination to give them a thorough trial before crying pcccavi were generally successful; but those who had expected to realize for- tunes immediately upon reaching the placers were invariably disappointed, and becoming disheartened returned to San Francisco with their hands in their breeches' pockets, and their liearts very nearly in the same place. I made it a rule to inquire of every miner I met about his success in the mines, and the best location for a green-hand to visit. Some an- swered my interrogatories in a satisfactory manner, and others, not being overstocked with tlie milk of human kindness, intimated that I had better learn from experience. I soon came to the latter con- clusion, and commenced making the necessary pre^o- arations for my departure. I packed my provisions in raw-hide sacks, engaged transportation mules, and on the morning of the 13th, accompanied by the brothers Kelly, set out for the placers on the river Calaveras, distant about 40 miles. CHAPTER XIV. First day and night on the road — Digger Indians — The sur- prise — Badly friglitened — "Song of the Gold-Digger" — ■ The wrong road — Arrival at the " diggins " — Commence operations — Tlie result — Rich " diggins " reported — Start on a prospecting tour — Return disgusted — Discovery of a rich bar — Commence operations — Sickness of the Author — Re- turn to, Stockton — Leave Stockton for San Francisco — Changes wrought in two months — Canvass for a newspaper route — The Pacific News — Its early history. OuE, first day's journey was over a level and sparsely-timbered country, thickly covered with wild oats and mustard. Owing to the excessive heat of the weather and the j)roverbial stubbornness of our mules, we encamped the first night 12 miles from Stockton. After the mules had been relieved of their loads and pack-saddles and securely tethered, we kindled a fire at the roots of a large oak, and, having eaten a hastily-j)repared meal of broiled pork, pilot-bread and coffee, spread our blankets on the ground and turned in for the night. When I awoke next morning, the muleteers had the animals packed ready for a start, and my companions were seated around the camp-fire discussing a pot of coffee which I helped them to dispatch, then shoul- dering our fire-arms we resumed our journey. The heat and dust during the day were almost insuj^port- able. The dust in our trail was as hot as the ashes (239) 240 VISIT A LODGE OF DIGGER INDIANS. of ji volcano, and curled and cris2)ed our boots until it Avas with great dilliculty we could travel. We bivouacked the second night under the wide-spread- ing branches of an oak on the north bank of the Calaveras, 20 miles fi'oni our previous night's en- campment. AVe killed sevei-al quail and squirrels during the day, which, with the addition of hard- tack and coffee, served for our supper. In the evening we visited the lodge of a party of Digger Indians en route to Stockton, who were encamped a few hundred yards below us. They treated us with great civility, and at parting pre- sented us with a quarter of dried venison, which was very acceptable. I presented the chief — avIio, by-the-by, was one of the ugliest-looking red-skins I ever beheld — with a plug of tobacco. The Digger eats very little animal food. Like his brother, the gorilla, he is a vegetarian and subsists 2)rincipally on wild berries and acorns, occasionally luxuriating on snails and grasshoppers. He cuts his hair with a sharp stone, and boils water in a basket. In the winter he burrows in the earth like a prairie dog, and emerges from his den in the spring as fat as a grizzly. His costume is decidedly primitive and airy, consisting of a breech-clout and a pair of moccasins. Since civilization has overtaken him, he occasionally dons a 2)aper collar and a pair of Mexican spurs. On our return to camp we placed the muleteers on guard, and wrapping ourselves in our blankets, were soon fast in the embrace of Morpheus. Just before daylight I was startled by the sharp report INDULGE IN A SONG. 243 of a rifle and a tremendous clattering of tin pans, pots and kettles. I grasped my rifle, which was lying alongside of me, and sprang behind the near- est tree, where I found my two companions dodging about like lizards around a cabbage-tree, expecting every moment to be skewered by the arrow of an Indian. I am not easily frightened, but I will con- fess that I felt a little nervous. Our fears were soon relieved by one of the muleteers, who informed us that he had discharged his gun at a coyote. The "varmint,^^ not having the fear of powder and lead before his eyes, had commenced depredations on one of our provision sacks. He escaped unscathed, but, in his sudden departure, had upset our coffee- pot and other tinware, which impressed us with the belief that the Diggers had made an attack on our camp. After rolling up our blankets, we set about pre- paring our morning repast, which being completed at sunrise, we assisted the muleteers to pack the animals and again resumed our journey. Charley Kelly and myself started ahead of the train, and being in a musical mood, I struck up the following song, to the air of " O Susannah," and my com- panion joined in the chorus : SONG OF THE GOLD-DIGGER. I came from Quakcrdclpliia With my wash-bowl ou my knee, I'm going to California, The gold-dust for to see. 244 SONG OF THE GOLD-DIGGER. It rained all night the day I left, The weather it was dry, The sun so hot I froze to death, O Anna, don't you cry ! Chorus — O California! That's the land for me, I'm going to Calaveras, With my wash-bowl on my knee. II. The Osceola I did board. And traveled on the sea ; And every time I thought of home, I wished it wasn't me ! The brig she reared like any horse That had of oats a wealth — But she found slio couldn't throw me, So I thought I'd throw myself. Chorus — O Ann Eliza ! Don't you cry for me, I'm going to Calaveras, With my wash-bowl on my knee. III. I thought of all the pleasant times We'd had together, dear ; I thought I ought to cry a bit. But couldn't find a tear ; The pilot-bread was in my mouth. The gold-dust in my eye. And though from you I'm far away, Dear Anna, don't you cry. Chorus — O Ann Eliza ! Don't you cry for me, I'm going to Calaveras, With my wash-bowl on my knee. TKACK OF A GRIZZLY. 245 IV. I soon sliall bo iu mining camp, And then I'll look around, And wlien I sec the gold-dust there, I'll pick it off the ground. I'll scrape the mountains clean, old girl, I'll drain the rivers dry, A pocketful of rocks bring home. So, Anna, don't you cry. Chorus — O California ! That's the land for me, I'm going to Calaveras, With my wash-bowl on my knee. Durins: the mornins; we killed a liare and several quail. We also saw in tlie trail the fresh foot- print of a grizzly, and congratulated ourselves that the foot was not in it, for we had no desire to meet one of those animals, even under the most favorable circumstances. We sto2)ped on the bank of a small stream, 12 miles from our last encampment, and awaited the arrival of our companions and baggage. After dinner, I again set out ahead of the train, and at four o'clock, P. M., arrived at Dos Agua — "double springs" — where I learned from a Sonorian that I had traveled some 4 miles beyond the trail that led to the Calaveras diggings. After partaking of a cup of coffee, for which I paid fifty cents, I re- traced my steps to the Calaveras trail, and though weary and footsore, j^ushed on as rapidly as possible after my companions, whom I overtook at sundown, as they were entering the Calaveras canon. I was completely exhausted, and spreading my })lanket on the bank of the nver, retired supperless for the 246 COMMENCE OPERATIONS. night. I awoke at an early liour next morning, and after 2:)artaking of a hearty breakfast, discharged the muleteers and commenced making preparations for pitching my tent. I suggested to my com2:)anions the propriety of messing together, to which they readily assented. We accordingly pitched our tents under a large oak near the bank of the river, and spent the remainder of the day unj^acking and arranging our stores and cooking utensils. Although our provisions were joint stock, we agreed to dig for the oro separately — each man for himself. On the morning of the 17th, I arose at five o'clock, and dressing myself a la California, shoul- dered my pick, crow-bar and spade, and started, tin pan in hand, for the bar of the river, where I com- menced my initiatory labors at gold-digging. I was engaged all the forenoon removing the large rocks from my claim. In the afternoon I com- menced washing the earth, and at sundown I weighed my " dust " and found I had panned out a quarter of an ounce — $4 worth. On the following day I washed out f 10 worth of the precious metal. Learning from a Mexican that rich diggings had been discovered by a ^^rij of Digger Indians, on a bar several miles lower down the river, I re- ported the circumstance to my companions, and a party was forthwith formed to visit the Indian dig- gings on the following day. On the morning of the 20th of September, accompanied by a party of miners of various nationalities and colors, I started on a prospecting SEEKING BETTER DIGGINGS. 249 tour to the reported rich Indian diggings. On our arrival at the encampment of the Indians, Ave were somewhat surprised at meeting only half a dozen squaws and papooses. We inquired for the bucks, but could obtain no satisfactory answer to our inter- rogatories. Being somewhat fatigued by a march of three hours over hills and through gulches and canons, exposed to the broiling rays of the sun, we placed our fire-arms against a tree, and sat down to rest our weary limbs and chat with the squaws. We had been seated only a few moments, when the Indians commenced making their appearance from all points of the compass. Every rock in the caiiou seemed to send forth a red-skin. We secured our fire-arms and again sat down. The Indians were rather shy at first, but after a little persuasion seated themselves around us, and those wdio could speak Spanish entered into conversation with us. After a few preliminary remarks, we informed them of tlie object of our visit, and asked if there was plenty of oro in the caiion. They shrugged their shouldei-s and informed us that the canon was much a malo ; but we j^laced very little reliance on what they said, and in order fully to satisfy ourselves in regard to the richness of the locality, commenced j)rospecting. After traveling over the caiion and bed of the river several hours, looking for gold, we came to the conclusion that the Indians had told the truth, and, bidding them good-bye, commenced retracing our steps. Midway between the Indian encampment and our own,-we discovered a bar richer than the one 250 GOLD-DUST AND RHEUMATISM. we were working, and concluded to remove to it on the following day. Accordingly, at an early hour next morning, we hundled up our tents and pro- visions, packed them on mules, and started for the new diggings, which we reached at noon. The afternoon was spent in pitching our tents and ar- ranging the provisions. At daylight next morning I selected what I considered a good location, and commenced operations. I lahored hard two days in removing the boulders from my claim, but was amply rewarded for my labor. On the third day I reached a crevice in a rock, some four feet beloAV the surface of the ground, and in two hours succeeded in extracting therefrom forty-five dollars' worth of gold ill nuggets of the vahie of from one to five dollars. I did not report my good-luck to my companions, but toiled on, early and late, day after day, until 1 had extracted nearly four hundred dollars' worth of the precious metal from the claim. I then abandoned it, and reported jiro- gress to my felloAv-diggers, all of whom had been less fortunate than myself. 8onie had not averaged one dollar per day ; others had been more success- ful, yet none had met with the success they antici- pated. Those who had expected to realize a fortune in a few days or weeks were sadly disappointed. I left San Francisco with the intention of remaining ill the mines during the fall and winter, but I had not dug three weeks before I found my health and strength failing. On the 10th of October, I had an attack of rheumatism which doubled me up like a rainbow and put a veto ou any further attempts at MINING SCENK, IMO 251 SELL OUT AND ]li:TIIlE. 253 gokl-digging. My comy)iinions advised mc to re- turn to Stockton or San Francesco and recruit my healtli, but I declined doing ho until I liad l)econie so cri])[)l(!d by disease that I could scarcely hobble out of iny tent. On the morning of the 12th, I sold my provisions and mining implements ])y auction at ruinous rates, and packing my wardrobe, consisting of an exti-a flannel sliirt, a pair of linsey-woolsey 2)ants, a six- shooter and a bowie-knife, I engaged passage in a trader's cart, and, bidding my companions adieu, started for Stockton, where I arrived the following evening. On my arrival in Stockton, I was advised l)y my friend Leland to place myself under the charge of a physician for a few weeks, or until I had fully re- covered my health. Accordingly, I visited the City Hospital, a large canvas tent, resem])ling very much a circus pavilion, and inquired the j)rice of board with medical attendance. The attending physician informed me that the charge was two ounces — .'|32 — })cr day ; but if I j)i"(^f'^ri'ed being visited at my own quarters, it would be some- wliat less. After haviug learned that I was not overstocked with the "root of all evil," he yv.ry condescendingly informed m(3 tliat he would charge me only .flG a visit, and tlie cost of tlie medicine prescribed. 1 left him with the promise that I would employ liim if I did not get better in a day or two. On my way Ijack to my lodgings, I re- collected having jiurcliased, before leaving Phila- delphia, a bottle of opodeldoc, and I at once resolved 254 EMBAKK IX BUSINESS. upon testing its virtues before purchasing medi- cine at California prices. I accordingly applied it freely to my swollen limbs, and on the following day I felt yery much relieved. I continued the application, and when the bottle was emptied of its contents, I was a well man. I consider the twenty- five cents paid for that bottle of opodeldoc the most judicious investment I ever made. Having re- covered my health, I cast about for some employ- ment whereby I might turn an honest penny. During my sojourn in Stockton, I mixed freely with the returning and disgusted miners, from whom I learned that they were selling their mining implements at ruinously low prices. An idea struck me one day, which I immediately acted upon, for fear that another might strike in the same j^lace and cause an explosion. The heaven-born idea that had penetrated my cranium was this : start in the mercantile line, purchase the tents and imple- ments of the returning miners at low figures, and sell to the greenhorns r;i route to the mines at Cali- fornia prices ! I purchased a large tent in which to store my goods and commenced operations. Fortune smiled on me, and I was hapj^'. But every rose has its thorn, and *' The best laid plans of mice aud mou gang aft agleo." The first rain of the season dampened my ardor and disheartened me. My bowels yearned for the ficsh-pots of San Francisco, so, early in Xovember, I bade farewell to Stockton, engaged passage on HAPPILY SETTLED IN HAPPY VALLEY. 257 board a scliooncr, and in due course of time reached the city of the Goklen Gate. San Francisco, during my absence of two months, had become so changed that I scarcely recognized it. Substantial frame buildings had superseded frail canvas tenements, and piers had been extended many hundred yards into the bay, at which vessels from the four quarters of the globe were dis- charging'their. cargoes. I visited the gold-diggers' encampment, Happy Valley, but that too was so changed, that I could hardly recognize a familiar spot or countenance. A three-story warehouse was being erected on the spot where I had pitched my tent two months previously. The saw and hammer of the carpenter could be heard in every square, and the voice of the crier and auctioneer at the corner of nearly every street. The Plaza was covered with booths, in which could be had the merchandise of all nations. As hotel accommodations were limited as well as expensive, I purchased for $100 a ship's galley, size four by five feet, wliicli I located in Happy Valley and commenced housekeeping. My fur- niture consisted of an empty flour-barrel and a nail- keg. The former served for a table and the latter as a chair, minus a back. My cooking utensils were as inexpensive as my furniture. A second-hand frying-pan, a dilapidated coffee-pot, and a rheumatic jack-knife comprised the catalogue. My bed con- sisted of two blankets and a soft block of w^ood for a pillow. Unfortunately, I was, by actual measure- ment, eight inches longer than my shebang ; there- 258 A NEW IDEA. fore, -svlicn " I lay mo down to sleep," I was com- jielled to lie bias, and I couldn't turn over without going out-of-doors. " Man wants but little here below," but lie wants tluit little long enough to turn over in. With no disrespect to Happy Valley, there is one thing which, as a truthful historian, I am compelled, more in sorrow than in anger, to relate. The flea, that festive and lively little "animile," was quite prevalent. He annoyed me sorely, yea, prodig- iously I The sojourners in Happy Valley and sur- rounding sand-hills never required cupping or leeching, as both operations were jDcrformed by the fleas, nolens volcns. Deing the owner of a house, I commenced look- ing about for some employment whereby I could raise the needful to keep the Y>ot boiling. INIy first business venture Avas in the ])ickle line, and the following extract from my journal will illustrate the modus operandi : *' Pickles are scarce and sell at fabulous prices. The beach of Happy Valley for miles is lined with dis- carded pickle-jars and bottles, and I have conceived the happy idea of utilizing them. 1 have gathered up, cleansed and stored around my shelSang, several hundred bottles ready for use. This afternoon, I boarded a vessel just arrived from Boston, and per- suaded the Captain to sell me a barrel of salted cucumbers and half a barrel of cider-vinegar, to be delivered to-morrow^ morning." After supper I wrapped myself in my blankets PICKLES AND TOBACCO PIPES. 259 and laid down to pleasant dreams ; but toward morning, I had a vision, and in that vision I saw — pickles. Captain Perkins delivered the cucumbers and vinegar, according to agreement, received his ivdj, and I immediately commenced bottling them. Before night, I had the largest stock of bottled pickles in San Francisco, and at the close of the week I struck a balance-sheet, and found that I had (bleared |^;>00 by the speculation. My next mer- cantile venture was a "corner" in tobacco pipes, by which I realized $150 in twenty-four hours. Having abiding faith in the old aphorism, "change makes change," I concluded to abandon mercantile pursuits and try my luck at the news- paper business. I resolved to commence at the lower round of the ladder, and gradually work my way u[)ward. Suiting the action to the thought, I at once ai)plied to the proprietors of the Pacific News, a tri-weekly, printed on a foolscap sheet, then in its infancy, for permission to canvass for a carrier's route on their journal. After a long in- terview, during which the project was discussed pro and con, I obtained the sole and exclusive right to canvass for subscribers, and serve the News in San Francisco and suburbs, which latter included Happy Valley and adjacent sand-hills. Messrs. Falkner & Leland, proprietors of the Pacific News, were botli Eastern men. Falkner formerly published a 2)a,per in Norwich, Conn., and Leland was one of the jiroprietors of the Clinton Hotel, New York, The first nund^er of the News was issued on the 25th of August, with Falkner 15 2G0 FEOM CARRIER TO BOOK-KEEPER. as editor, and Leland, business manager. A few weeks subsequently, Charles Eames, of Washing- ton, D. C, appointed by President Polk consul to the Hawaiian Islands, arrived in San Francisco, en route, but was jirevailed upon by Falkner & Leland to forego liis mission, locate in San Francisco, and assume editorial charge of their journal, at a salary of foOO per month. As the election and inaugu- ration of Zachary Taylor, as President of the United States, had rendered the recall of Mr. Eames a foregone conclusion, that gentleman con- sidered discretion the better part of valor, and accej)ted the editorship of the News. Simultaneously with the engagement of Mr. Eames as editor-in-chief, a tall, lank, hirsute Yan- kee, of the name of Ames alias "Boston" alias " Big Ames," was engaged as local reporter. A few weeks subsequently ]\Ir. Ferdinand C. Ewer, a recent graduate of old Harvard, and a gentleman of fine literary attainments, was added to the staff of the Netvs as assistant editor. I experienced little difficulty in getting uj") a paying list of subscribers for the Neivs. Nearly every one on whom I called gladly subscribed for it, and paid me promptly at the end of each week. I had scarcely become accustomed to my new vocation, when the situation of book-keeper was tendered to me by the proprietors of the Ncics, with a salary of I|100 a week. I sold my carrier's route for $200, my shebang in Happy Valley for $125, and accepted the situation, with the proffer of a sleeping-bunk in the office. Soon after I was THE PACIFIC NEWS. 261 installed in my new quarters, Mr. Leland sold Ills lialf-interest in the News to Major Allen, U. S. A., for 150,000, returned to New York and re- sumed his former occujoation, hotel-keeping. The PacifiG News was the fii^st tri- weekly, and the third newspaper then published in California, its cotemporaries being the Alia California, pub- lished by Gilbert & Kemble, in San Francisco, and the Placer Times, published by E. Gilbert & Co., Sacramento City, and edited by Jesse Giles — both Aveekly sheets, and small patterns at that, the latter being foolscap size. Printing-paper was very scarce in California, but the market was overstocked with unruled foolscap, which was substituted for the former. The size of the News was a foolscap sheet, and as enlargement was a matter of impossibility, sup]3lementary sheets were added to accommodate advertisers. The price of the News was 12 J cents a copy. Steamer edition, printed on wrapping- j)aper of various colors and qualities, 50 cents a copy. Advertisements were inserted at |5 a square, each insertion. CHAPTER XV. First State election — The winning candidates — " Fire ! fire ! fire !" — A million dollars' worth of property destroyed — "Big Ames's" report of the conflagration — An eccentric judge — Muddy streets — First vocal entertainment in San Francisco — Early theatricals — "Them literary fellers" — Terrence McVerdant — "A rallying song for the gold- diggers." The State Constitution, framed and signed by the delegates at IMonterey, in October, was sub- mitted to a vote of the people on November 13th. State officers were also voted for at the same time ; and the election passed off in an orderly manner. Out of the two thousand votes polled in San Fran- cisco only five were opposed to the Constitution, and in the whole country less than a thousand votes were cast against it, and upwards of twelve thousand for it. The following State officers, U. S. Senators and Kei^resentatives were elected : Governor, Peter H. Burnett; Lieutenant-Gov- ernor, John McDougal; U. S. Senators, John C. Fremont, Wm. ]\I. Gwin ; Represejitatives in Con- gress, George W. Wright, Edward Gilbert ; Secre- tary of State, Wm. Van Voorhies; Treasurer, Kichard Roman ; Comjjtroller, J. S. Houston ; At- torney- General, Edward J. C. Kewen ; Surveyor- General, Charles J. Whiting ; Chief Justice, S. C. (202) I ~~^\\ 'liiiili^^^^^ M\m li FIRST ELECTION AND FIRST GREAT FIRE. 265 Hastings ; Associate Justices, J. A. Lyon, Nathaniel Bennett ; State Senators, Gabriel B. Post, Nathaniel Bennett; Assembly, Wm. Van Voorhies, Edward Randoliih, Levi Stowell, J. H. Watson, J. A. Pat- terson. Late in October a Democratic meeting, the first in California, was held in the Plaza, in front of the "old adobe,^^ at which the following ofiicers were chosen : President, Colonel John W. Geary f' Vice- Presidents, Dr. McMillan, Thomas J. Agnew, John McVickar, W. H. Jones, O. P. Sutton, Annis Mer- rill, E. V. Joyce and W. H. Jones ; Secretaries, J. Ross Browne, John A. McGlynn, Joseph T. Dow- ney and Daniel Cronin. A series of resolutions were adopted, a red-hot Democratic speech delivered by the Hon. Wm. Van Voorhies, and the meeting adjourned. Early on the morning of the 24th of December, San Francisco was aroused by the startling cry of ^^fire ! fire r and the citizens rushed pell-mell to the scene of conflagration. The fire originated in Dennison's Exchange, adjoining the Parker House, situated on Kearney Street, opposite the Plaza, and in a few hours property valued at more than a mil- lion dollars was destroyed. The Parker House, one of the most imposing buildings in San Fran- cisco, with its faro and monte tables and other gambling paraphernalia, was totally destroyed, as was also the El Dorado, at the corner of Washington and Kearney Streets. The blowing up of several buildings in Washington Street, near Montgomery, * Afterward Governor of Pennsylvania. 266 "big ames" disgusted. by order of Alcalde Geary, arrested the progress of tlie fire in that direction. Nearly every building in the square bounded by Washington, Clay, Mont- gomery and Kearney Streets was destroyed. The controlling spirit during the progress of the fire was David C. Broderick,'" a New York fireman, who worked like a Trojan, and whose stentorian voice, shrill as a trumpet, could be heard above the crashing of the falling buildings and the din of the excited crowd. Before the ground in the burnt district had become cold, the debris was removed, canvas tenements erected, and the "gay gamboliers" were again plying their vocation as unconcernedly as if nothing had occurred to interfere with their business. That fire was a "big thing" for "big Ames," local editor of the News. He wrote out a sj^read- eagle report as long as the Declaration of Inde- pendence, but when it appeared in print on the fol- lowing morning, " curtailed of its fair projiortions," cut down to less than a foolscap column, he was completely demoralized. He lost his temper and swore like a trooper. All efforts to soothe his w^ounded feelings only added fresh fuel to the pent- up volcano raging within his breast, which erupted iron-clad oaths at every breath. He said "the News was a contemptible one-horse sheet ; its pro- prietors might possibly run a hotel, but they didn't understand the first principles of newsj^aper pub- lishing, and he'd be darned if he'd write another line for the d d paper " — and he didn't. * Subsequently U. S. Senator from California. A HARD-SHELL ALMOND. 2G7 During the flxll the business of the Alcalde had increased to such a degree, that the establishment of another court, with civil jurisdiction only, and in cases of sums exceeding $100, was authorized by the Governor, and William B. Almond was ap- pointed judge. His court was called the "Court of First Instance." Almond was no paper-shell, but a decidedly hard nut to crack, as the legal frater- nity who practiced in his court soon learned. He was a man of few words, and, to economize time, generally decided a case on the testimony of the first witness, without listening to the arguments of counsel. During the trial of a trivial case before his Honor, the counsel for the p)laintiff called his ojiponent an oscillating Tarquin. The judge, in a stentorian voice, roared out : "A what ?" "' An oscillating Tarquin, your Honor." The judge removed his feet from the table in front of him, leaned forward, and pointing his index finger toward the ofiending disciple of Blackstone, ejaculated, in a voice of thunder : " If this honorable court knows herself, and she thinks she do, that remark is an insult to this honorable court, and you are fined two ounces, and stand committed till you down with the dust." " But, your Honor," replied the trembling petti- fogger. " Silence, sir ; this honorable court won't tolerate cussing, and never goes back on her decisions !" It is needless to add that the fine was paid, and the trial proceeded. "Old Tarquin," as the judge was afterward called, 268 THE RAINY SEASON AND THE STREETS. was a clccided character. On a subsequent occasion lie adjourned court ten minutes in order to take a drink with one of the jurors. On another occasion he insisted on trying two separate cases with the same jury. He said tlic jurors understood the rulings of the court, and rendered a square verdict! The rainy season was now at its height — that ever-to-be-remembered fall and winter of lS49-'oO — and the streets were simjoly awful ! Awful is a mild term, but I can't just now call to mind a more expressive adjective. They ran rivers of mud, and swallowed uj^ every living tiling that attempted to cross them. Water-proof suits and cavalry or long boots were in great demand, and commanded Mun- chausenistic prices. It was no uncommon occur- rence to see at the same time a mule stalled in the middle of the street with only his head above the mud, and an unfortunate pedestrian who had sli2~»ped off the plank sidewalk, being fished out by a companion. Some good Samaritan, with a heart overflowing with the milk of human kindness, erected at the corner of Clay and Kearney Streets the following warning to the unwary : This street is impassable. Not even jackassable ! On January 8th, the anniversary of the Battle of New Orleans, another election, the second in San Francisco, was held for members of the Legislature, OLD SCHOOL-HOUSE, OPPOSITE THE PLAZA. MUDPY STRFETS, WINTER OF ISIO-'GO. 2C0 CONCERT, CIRCUS AND THEATRE, 271 Alcalde and Ayuntainiento. Despite the rain, wliicli poured down in torrents during the day, the un- terrified voters turned out in full strength, and elected the following gentlemen to the offices named; State Senator, David C. Broderick; Memhcr of As- sembly, Samuel J. Clarke ; First Alcalde, John W. Geary ; Second Alcalde, Frank Turk ; Ayunta- miento, Hugh C. Murray, A. M. Van Nostrand, M. Crooks, J. Ilagan, F. C. Gray, Frank Tilford, A. J. Ellis, Talbot H. Green, Wm. M. Stewart, Samuel Brannan, W. II. Davis and James S. Graham. Man is naturally a social being ; he likes rational enjoyment, and is fond of amusement. The first vocal entertainment in San Francisco was given by Mr. Stej^hen C. Massett, in the school-house, front- ing the Plaza, on the evening of June 22d, 1849. It was a one-man entertainment — Mr. Massett be- ing the only performer. Front seats were reserved for the ladies, of whom there were four present. Tickets were %?> each, and the house was crowded to overflowing. During the year 1849, and the early ])art of 1850, circuses were established in San Francisco, first by Howe and soon after by Foley. The following were the prices of admission : Pit, $o ; box, |5 ; private boxes, $50. The first theatrical performance in San Francisco was given in Janu- ary, 1850, by a company under the management of At water ct IMadison, in the second story of Washington Hall, on Washington Street, opposite the Plaza. The plays produced were Charles II and Tlie Wife. Subsequently, Mr. Howe added a li/LJ TERRENCE McVERDANT. stage to liis circus for tliciitrical jierformanccs, and the Ibl lowing urtistes were engaged: Mr. and Mrs. Hiimbleton, Mr. ;ind INFrs. Ijattuss, and INIr. and Mrs. McCron. IMesdanies l\ay and Kirby soon after joined tlie c()ni])any. About this time the editor of the Ncivs was sorely Avorried by " them literary fellers," who abound in all communities, with their contributions on all con- ceivable subjects, which in most cases were con- signed to the waste-basket, that receptacle of the outcropi)ings of una2)preciated genius. The following epistle, however, found its way into print. It was written by a disconsolate son of the Emerald Isle to his sweetheart in New York, and shows tlie status of matters viewed from a Hibernian stand-point : San Fransisky, Doc. 1, 1849. BiPDY Darlin' : — I've been to the ininos, bud hick to 'em. For siviu long weeks, Biddy, acushhv, I sarchcd tlic bowels of icrri/ firmer lor goold, and all I got was the dissintcrry, by rasiu of workin' on an eni])ty .stoniick. The divil a thing to ate for brekiist, and the same for dinner, and ditto repated for supper ; an' all the time throwing up mud an' wathcr, is mighty wakening for the insides. Pitaytecs was a $1 a pound, and no mate to be had but gristly bares, Avhich is tough customers. In cowld wether the craythurs — I mano gristly bares — comes down from the mountains, with their arums extended, as if they wantid to bid ye welkim ; but the moment they're for- nenst ye, they grab ye, the craythers, and scjuazo the breth o' life out ov ye. Some ov the byes that wint out in the saiue ship Avid me found goold galore, but the divil as nuich as the vally of a weddin'-ring, Biddy, did Terry git for his thrubble. The black luck was on me, darlin', for laviu ye, a daceut, modest colleen, as ye arc, to come to a kunthry where the wimiu are the color of a dirthy copper-kittle, and have no EARLY POETRY. 273 more dry-goods on their backs, saviu' your priscncc, Biddy, than mother Ave had before she turned mauty-maker an' iut(M-duced the iasluui of tlic vogotabul apruns. I got back from tlio miiios a fortnit ago, and a most unl'ortnit go it was for me that I ever wint there. Here J am in Ban Frausisky knoekin' about without a rap. What's to become of me, Biddy, mavourneen, the saints only know. Only to think that I should lave the comfortable berth I had swapiug tho strates of Now Yorick, to come to this haythen kunthry, where the strate-claning is done by the burds, and drinkin', gamblin', spcckalatin' an' shooiside is the oidy fashionable amusements. Ye'U see it statid in the j)apers, Biddy, that tho diggers are findin' goold in " quartz." Biddy, it's a lie ! — a base, disatc- ful, onchristian lie! I niver seen a lump of goold yit that would fdl a gill measure. Couldn't ye raise a subskripshun, Biddy, among the stratc- swapers, to pay me j)assidge back. If 1 was only back in New Yorick, dead or alive, I'd niver lave it while grass grows and wather runs. Your loving, Terrence Mc Verdant. The following poem, the earliest written and pul)- lished in California, appeared in i]\v. PaciJiG News^ with tho following editorial comments : We cannot refrain from publishing the following vigorous stanzas, trusting that they will impart as much pleasure in tho j^erusal, to our readers, as they have to ourselves. "We should be hai)])y to give the author's name, as wo deem them to possess no ordinary merit : A RALLYING SONG FOR THE G0LD-DIGGI:RS. To the mines ! to the mines ! away to the mines ! Where the virgin gold in the crevice shines! Where the shale and tho slate and the quartz enfold, In their stony arms, the glittering gold. 274 SONG OF THE GOLD-DIGGERS. 'Tis in vain that yc seek any longer to hide Your treasures of gold in your rivers so wide, In your gulches so deep, or your wild canon home, For the Anglo-American race is come. And the noise that ye hear is the sound of the spade. The pick, the bar, and the bright shining blade. Of the knife and the shovel, the cradle and pan, Brave adjuncts of toil to the laboring niau! Far up in the mountain, all rugged and steep, Far down in the canon, all foaming and deep. In the bars of the rivers — the small mountain plains, Lies the wealth that yc seek for, in numberless grains. Turn the stream from its bed — search the bottom with care, The largest, the richest, the finest is there ; Dig deep in tlic gulches, nor sto^i till the stone Reveals thee its treasure, or tells thee there's none. Nor be thou disheartened, dismayed nor cast down. If success should decline thy first efibrts to crown ; Go ahead ! Go ahead ! Since creation began, " No wealth without toil," is the record to man. Old Mammon the sound of your coming hears. And, aroused from his sleep of a million years, He gazes around him, in wild surprise, As Mexican rule from the region flies. Now hie thee, old Mammon, far over the sea I Thy long-hidden treasure all scattered shall be ; For the hands that now grasp it, free, ai-dent and bold, AVill give to the world its lost millions of gold. Then away to the mines ! away to the mines ! AVhere the virgin gold in the crevice shines ; Where the shale and the slate and the quartz enfold. In their stony arms, the glittering gold ! A. II. K. San Francisco, Ilarch 22, 1850. CHAPTER XVI. Locate in Sacramento City — The Sacramento Transcript — ■ First election in Sacramento — Three tickets in the field — Names of the city and county officers elected — Meeting of the Council-elect — Demas Strong chosen President — lie makes a speech — Adjourned meeting of Council — Mayor Bigelow's message read and accepted — First message of the first Mayor of Sacramento City. DuRiisTG the winter of 1849-'50, I made tlie acquaintance of Mr. George Kenyon Fitch, a prac- tical printer, from New Orleans, who arrived in San Francisco via Isthmus of Panama, in the month of September. Before leaving New Orleans, Mr. Fitch shipped, in a sailing vessel around Cape Horn, two presses, (a hand and card press,) types, ink, and some thirty reams of printing-paper, with the view of publishing a newspaper in California, on the arrival of the material. The invoice price of the paper, types and presses was $950, but when they arrived in San Francisco, in the early part of March, 1850, they were valued at $15,000, and could have been sold for that amount in coin, as printing material was very scarce, and "sorts" were worth their weight in gold ! Mr. Fitcli pro- j)0sed to five of the attaches of the Pacific Neivs — F. C. Ewer, H. S. Warren, J. M. Julian, Theodore RusseiPand S. C. Upham — the formation of a co- (275) 27G THE "SACEAMENTO TRANSCEIPT." partnersliip, with a view to the joublication of a news2")a2:>er in Sacramento City. The proposition was accepted, articles of agreement executed, and we started at once for that j^lace. We arrived in Sacramento immediately after the great flood, which had inundated the town, and it was in a sadly demoralized condition. We rented the second floor of a frame building, on Second Street, between J and K Streets, and on the^rs^ day of Aijvil, 1850, the initial number of the tri- weekly Sacramento Transcript was issued by Fitch, Upliam & Co. It was printed on a folio sheet, in Brevier and Nonpareil type. A steamer edition, for circulation in the Atlantic States, was printed on the first of each month. The tri-wcekly sold at 12 2 cents a copy, and the steamer edition at 50 cents a cojoy. Advertisements were inserted at $4 per square, each insertion. The six copartners occupied the following positions on the paj^er : G. K. Fitch, heavy and fighting editor ; F. C. Ewer, literary editor ; H. S. Warren, foreman ; J. M. Julian, compositor; Theodore Kussell, pressman, and S. C. Upham, local reporter, printer's devil, business manager, "dead-head," etc. Sacramento City being in its infancy, in a chrysalis or state of transition, just emerging from its shell, hotel accommodations were limited. We lodged in the office, and obtained our meals at different places. I paid |1G a week for two meals a day at a French restaurant, on the levee, and slept on the soft side of the office counter, with a roll of paper for a pillow. " INTEODUCTOKY." 277 Tlie object and aims of the Transcrijjt were fully set forth in the following " Introductory :" The opening of a new papei* is like the phmting of a tree. The hopes of many hearts cluster around it. The anxious mind labors over it by night and by day, and the watchful eye guards it, as, in its youth, it struggles into life. Encour- aging words and the helping hand of its friends fall like rain- drops around it, and the approving smile of the public steals in, like the sunshine, to open its buds. In the covert of its leaves all pure principles and high aims should find a home ; and from it invisible voices should rise forth from the nests of those pure principles, to delight, to warm and to instruct the world. Its shade should be free to all. It should reach forth its branches to shield the innocent from the pelting storm ; and, conscious of its fearless might, men should come to it for protection, and find refreshment in its shade. It should be nurtured by no unhealthy influences ; it should be propped up by no interested motives ; its growth should be free and unre- strained. Perchance it may wither in its youth, and no longer be the home of healthy influences. Perhaps it may be stricken in its manhood by the storm of adversity. Perchance it may flourish through the years and grow green ; but, of all dangers that assail it from without, the insidious influence of those who may cluster around it for their own jirivate ends is the most Avithering, and the most to be feared. A newspaper should never be used. It is too tremendous a lever to be brought to bear for any purpose, save the good of the public. Such is our ideal ; and Avith such an ideal before us, do we present ourselves before the public of Sacramento City. In politics, the Transcript will sedulously maintain an independ- ent course, endeavoring to do justice to both parties. In re- ligion, it will be neutral. We shall earnestly advocate such measures as we deem to be for the best interests of our city. "VVe shall urge the introduction of every class of improve- ments — shoot error as it flies, and watch for every injury that is stealiugjn upon us. We shall endeavor to present to our readers in Sacramento City and the mines, the news from the 1278 A MOMENTOUS DAY. Pacific Coast, from the States, from Europe, from China and the Ishuuls of the Pacific. For our I'riends in San Francisco ami abroad, we shall collect the earliest intelligence from the mines. "Wo shall inform them of the condition of thing:3 iu California durinji; the successive stages of its rapid growth, and shall spare no labor or expense to give our sheet that variety and interest which an intelligent community demands. Every facility will bo extended to our advertising friends. So soon as the want of Sacramento will warrant it, we shall enlarge our sheet and issue our paper daily. A part of our columns will be devoted to literature, to criti- cism, poetry, and anything of the bclla^-lcttrcs cast. We have procured not only correspondents who will keep us advised of the latest intelligence from the mines, but several from San Francisco and the States, Avhose papers will bo of a lighter and more literary character. "NVe shall endeavor to give the Transcript an extensive circulation iu the placers. It will thus be a connecting link between tlie business and mining community ; furnishing merchants in San Francisco and Sac- ramento a convenient means for communication with the mines. Such are our aims, and to attain them we shall use our highest endeavors ; trusting, as we embark in the enterprise, that our Avell-meant efforts will meet with support from the known liberality of the inhabitants of the city of our adoption. The day on 'vvliicli the first number of the Tran- scrijH was published, in addition to being "All- fools' Dtn/,'* was election day iu Sacramento. It was the first election under the City Charter, and there were three tickets iu the field. Canyassing had been going on for several weeks previously, botii in tlie city and throughout the county, and an immense number of ballots and handbills had hccn circulated. The polls remained open uniil late in the eveniuir, and there were lively SPECIMEN ADVERTISEMENTS. 279 times around the ballot-boxes. There was no rioting, but a great deal of superfluous gas was ventilated and considerable whisky drunk. The following political advertisements, published in the Transcr'qyt on the morning of the election, will serve to show the complexion of affairs : DEMOCRATIC NOMINATIONS. — In pursuaiico of a public cull, a meeting of Dcnincrnlic citizens was coTivencMl at tlie ("ily lloicl, ill Sacramento < 'ity, on Monday i jri. is,iii, for tlio purpose of oi'uani/injj tlie Deinocralic I'arly, and nominalin^c a Ticlcet for City and County Olliccrs, to ))e sup]iorted at the en- suing election. John S. Fowler was called to the chair; J. P. Rogers, II. A. Slieldeu and Loriu rickering were chosen Vice I'residenis, and John K. Brown and Or- lando McKniglit a])iiointed Secretaries. Un uujlion, a connuittco of tliree was appointed by the chair torinciples— the only principles that cau secure a proper adumiistration of 16 280 SPECIMEN ADVERTISEMENTS. povemment and equal rights and privileges among tlio governed— iheii'loro, be it JicKiiInd, 'J'liat the organiziition of government cre- ates a necessity Un- llie (irgiini/.atioii ol' pnrtv. licitdtrnl, That tlie repulilicau ])riiu'iiiles laid down hy .TelVerson, llie Fallu'rot' Deniocracy, and tlie mea- sures Iliat liave eliaraeterizcd all denioeralie udniinis- trations, meet with our hearty approval and unquali- lled siipport. Jirsnlrid, That in 'Mnnieipal, fis well as State and Natifinal (iovernments, tile laws sliduM he so framed as to sei'ure equal rights to all, and special privileges to none. Jir.li. Resolrrd, Tliat we now launch the goo(l old ship of Democracy— spread her canvas to the lnveze— nail her colors to the mast— and jiledge our united ellbrts to secure the triumphant election of the regularly nomi- nated Iiemocratic candidates. On motion, Levi Ilermance. Barton Lee, E W. Cro- vell, .^. W. tiregg, and J. F. Thorp, were constituted a Town Committee. On motion, The Town Committee were instructed to confer witli Democrats lliroughout the county for the purjiose of holding a (^>unty Convention and or- ganizing the Democratic parly tliroughout the county. On motion, the meeting adjourncil. JOHN y. FOWLER, Chairman. J, K. Brown, 1 i;p,.rptft,.ies Orl.\ndo MiKnigiit, J ^ctretaues. ^^ (;1TIZENS' MEETING.— At a spontane- ous assemblage of the citizens of t-'acra- 'meuto City, hehl at the City Hotel, on >b)uday evening, the ll.'ith inst.. immedi- ately upon the adjonnmicnt of the self-constituted l)en"iocratic meeting, whereat an attempt was made to organize a Democratic party, I 'emas Strong was called to the chair, and Jos. \V. Winans appointed Secretary. After some alile and cloresenlation at a sub- sequent public meeting of the citizens of Sacramento City, of the time and place of holding which, public notice shall be given by the chairman. J^esolred. 'that Messrs. Nickerson, Nolan, Bullock, AVinans, and Warbass, constitute sui'h committee. }!esohrd. That the (hair lie added to such commit- tee as the ehairnian thereof. llesolved. That in the view of this meeting, any at- tempt at this time to ellcct a political organization, on party grounds, is TOTALLY INC.M.l.Kl) FoK, and that the meeting hehl this evening, prior to the i>resent meeting, did wit. and docs not represent the Democratic Party of Sacramento City, Hcsoh'cd, That Uie Democratic Kepublicans here as- SPECIMEN ADVERTISEMENTS. 281 semblcd, protest aa;ainst the very i-.ai1ial proreedmgs of sail! iiiectini,'. as bciiii,' ciiutrary U> ])einiHTatic prin- ciples and usages, ami roeoiiuueiul tin- electors ot bac- raiueiito ("itv to give their I'raiiehise to such men as they may deem, most suitable to till the various oflices in tlieir gilt. „ , . x. i Ix'ruo.vcd, That the proceedings of this meeting do published in the "Placer Times" and "Sacramento Transcript." , ■,■ ^ On motion, the meeting was thereupon adjourned. DEMAS STRONG, Chairman. Jos. W. WiNANS, Secretary^ lt_ RANCIIEROS, TO THE RESCUE !-The .■neiny is in the field— our bills have been mutilated, and in some instances de- strovcd; but let not your " angry passions rise " in eonseciuenee of the indignity. Imitate as far as in your power lies the example of your leader. Keep cool, work hard and vote early. Remember that abuse and curses, like youn,^' chickens, ••wiUcorao home to roost." When once the votes are m the ballot boxes, no appeal can be taken. Hombues. RANCHO TICKET. T It R O U (i II BY daylight! For Jlayor-JOSEPII GRANT. For City Recorder— R. F. Washington. , „ „ , For Councilmen— T. McDowell, C. A. Tweed, Z. Hub- bard, diaries O. Brewster, E. J. Feeney, D. Strong, Dr. J. F. Morse, Dr. James S. Martin, Charles U. Miller. For City Marshal— M. D. Eyre. For City Attorney— A. C. Monson. For City Assessor— Wm. F. Prettyman. For City Treasurer- Barton Lee. RANCHO TICKET— For the County. " All'^ well tliat cndf! well." For Clerk of the Suprcnio Court— E. IT. Tharp. For District Attorney— William C. Wallace. For County Judge- Edward J. Willis. For County Clerk— Presley Dunlap. For County Attorney— John II. MeKune. For County Surveyor— Andrew J. Biiiney. For Sherid— Joseph D. Uiigoe, (better known as Johnny Ranclio.) For Comity Recorder- Thomas A. Warbass. For County Assessor— D. W. Thorpe. For Coroner— Henry F. Beadle. For County Treasurer- Wm. (ilaskin. It ~7ifS=- CajJt. W. G. MARCY authorizes us to announce the with!i>hrd, 'I'hat the Secretary be empowered to fill all vncancii'S. nth. Jyesdirrd, 'f hat the various committees be under the control of the managers, as a Committee of the Whole. (jlli. Resolved, That the managers meet at the Saloon of llie Theatre, to receive tlie reports of the various conuniltees on Monday Evening, 'J'Jd inst., at half past 7 o'clock. 7lli. J.'eKolved, That the proceedings bo published in the .several city papers, anil tliat the meeting nuw ad- journ. T. J. WHITE, I'resident. Ai.MAniN B. Paxti., Secretary. ^___ ]t_ Grand Soiree. HrjT" At a nu'cling of the l\lanngers of the Grand Soiree, liolden at the f^aloon of the Pacilic '1 lieatre, on tlie afternoon of the lUtli inst., the following resolu- tions were adopted : 1st. J\e:!i)!v(d, 'I hut tickets of admission be issued to ladies as wi'U as to gentlcincii, and that the gentlemen be required to present tlicin as well as their own, at the iloor on the evening of the Soiree. L'd. li'iralrrd. 'I'lint gentlemen desiring tickets will npi>ly fur them to the Committee of invitation, through the secieliiry. !id. Jicsolved, 'i'hat the price of admission tickets bo 825. AbMAUIN B. PAUL, See'y. Comwiller of InvitiUion and liecention For Ihetirand Soiree to be given on the evening of tlie 2.'>th April, at the Pacific Theatre. HON. UAHKIN lUOKLOW, MruUAV MOIIIUSON, " T. .1. WHirK, R. A. I'|;A1;1S, M. D,, r. r. KWI.I!, fOI,. W. A. l!AKi:i!, JOHN S. IdWI.ICK, C. 11. Cl.KVr.UAND. JI. D., J. 11. C.II.KS, Al.MAUlN B. I'AUL. ap20-3t • A COUNCILMAN RESIGNS. 297 Sacramento City put on her best bib and tucker in lionor of this affair. The parquette of the theatre was floored over, a fine band of music engaged, and a magnificent supj)er was served for the occasion under tlie supervision of Mr. John S. Fowler, pro- prietor of the City Hotel. Dancing was continued until the " wee small hours," and many of the participants "didn't go home till morning, till day- light did appear." Mr. E. C. Kemble, one of the editors of the AUa Calif oimia, came up from San Francisco to attend the soiree, but on examining his apparel, found that his pantaloons were a little too seedy to pass regulation muster. His " biled shirt " and swallow-tail coat were unexceptionable, and to complete his tout eiisemhle, I loaned him my best black cassimeres, which had been laid away in lavender since leaving Philadelphia. The fit was a tight one; so tight in fact, that a sudden attempt to sit down would have caused an irrepar- able collapse of the fabric in a very undesirable and embarrassing quarter; but luck favored him, and he passed the ordeal without accident to the pants. Mr. Charles H. Miller, one of the city fathers elected on the 1st of April, upon "sober second thought," declined the honor conferred upon him, and an election to fill the vacancy was ordered by the President of Common Council, to take place on the 21st of May. The following patriots, anxious to serve their country, announced themselves as candidates for the office. The cards of the two Aeronauts, and that of A. D. Bell, are decidedly unique : 298 ELECTION AND RESULT. KS" Wc nrc authorized to announce Pr. T.J. WIIITE as a ciuuliUato for a seat in the Cominou Council, in the phico ofC. H. Miller, resigned. mll-St lil^- C.VNl)in.\TK FOR TMl', CoJlMON COI'NCIL.— The many friends of J.VME."^ CJUKKN, Esq., propose his name to the voters of Sacramento as a candidate for a .seat in the Common (.'ouneil to till the vacancy of Chas. II. Miller, Es(j., resigned. IW NoTici;.— The undersigned liaving been pre- sented to the public a.s a candidate to liU the vacancy in tlie City (^)uncil. resiiectfuUy solicits tlie considera- tion of those of his friends who think Inm -worthy of their support. JAMES QUEEN. Klei'tion on Tuesday, May 21st. 4t__ At the solicitation of individuals who have the good of Sacramento City at heart, Doct. CiiAULivS n. MoRitiLL, formcrly-&oHa(;/in the States, (a permanent resident liere.) is a can- didate to till the vnt'ancy in the Council, oc- casioned liy the resignation of C. II. Miller, Election to take place on the lilst instant. mil 4t At the solicitation of my wife Nancy, who has the good ot herself at heart, and (^rj)?'/ intcrosicil in the successful t'ultiva- tiou of mutton-lieads, A. D. Bki.l, who has n\aile several descents in a diving bell, and late one of the //'>a?/H,'7 pojiulationof tliis (uiiiaiic city, is a candidate for the City Council at the election to take place on the 21st inst. It* At the earnest .solicitation of numerous friends who cherish a lively interest in th(> welfare of Sacramento City. ,1. V. liVKKN, formerly .KmiKtiit of Cincinnati in tlie I'nited States, i and now pernmnently located here,) anncunices liiniself as a candidate for" a seat in the Council. Election to take place on Tuesday, (this day) the 21st inst. The election came oif as announced with the fol- lowing result : James Queen, 1,008 W. N. Doughty, 571 T.J. White, 337 an. Morrill, 36 A.D.Bdl, 1 Bejectcd as illegal, , 4 "Whole number of votes polled, .... 1,957 Queen's plurality, 437 " majority, 59 I. O. O. F. AND A. Y. M. HOSPITAL. 299 Queen was triumphant, and the Aeronauts went uj) in a balloon ! On the evening of April 4tli, the members of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows, in Sacramento City, met in the Court-house, A. M. Winn, Pres- ident of the Odd Fellows Association, in the chair. The chairman having explained the object of the meeting, a committee of five, with proper credentials, was appointed to apply to Lieutenant Fraser, D. D. Grand Sire for the State of California, requesting him to visit Sacramento and formally establish a lodge. About the same time, the Odd Fellows, in connection with the Masons, established a hospital, the board of trustees being elected by both orders. A series of concerts were given for the benefit of the hospital, which were liberally patronized. The managers of the Tehama Theatre and Rowe's Olmyinc Circus also gave benefits for the same object. The follow- ing card of thanks to Mr. and Mrs. Kowe and the opening address delivered on the night of the benefit, by its author, Francis N. McCron, were published in the Transcript : To the Editors of the Transcript : Gentlemen: — Will you have the kindness to give pub- lication to our acknowledgment of the liberal and huuiane conduct of Mr. Rowe, as manifested in the benefit which he recently gave to the Masons' and Odd Fellows' Hospital. It is due to that gentlemen and the persons composing his com- pany to say, that they all refused to deduct anything from the proceeds of the evening, for their own services ; and the interest that this gentleman exhibited in making the house a good one gives him a strong claim upon the members of these orders for a liberal reciprocal jiatronage and support. 300 THE OPENING ADDRESS. Wc return Mr. and Mrs. Rowe, and all the individuals composing the Olympic Circus, our sincere thanks for the benefit we have received, through the efficient proceeds of their house on the IGth inst. We also reiterate our thanks to the gentlemen of the two papers for gratuitous advertisements. Truly, yours, J. F. Morse, Secretary of Board of Trustees. Sacramento City, May 19th, 1850. Mr. McCron, Dear Sir : — The Board of Trustees of the Masons' and Odd Fellows' Hospital, having been highly grat- ified with the very appropriate and interesting address which you prepared and delivered with so much felicity at their re- cent benefit given them by Mr. and Mrs. Rowe, beg the favor of a copy of the same for publication. Yours, truly, J. F. Morse, Secretary of Board of Trustees. John F. Morse, Esq., Dear Sir: — Your kind note, in the name of the Board of Trustees of the Masonic and Odd Fellows' Hospital, requesting a copy of my poor address prepared and delivered by me at the Pacific Theatre, on the occasion of benefit in aid of the funds of above-named establishment, is truly flattering. Enclosed, I send a copy. And allow me to remain, my dear sir, yours resjiectfully, Francis N. McCron. Sacramento City, 3Iay 18th. OPENING ADDRESS. Can the striped banner, or the stars of State, That on the brave, or on the vicious wait, Su(;h cml)loms with such emphasis impart, As an insignium near the Mason's heart! Hail, Sacred Masonry ! of source Divine, Unerring mistress of the faultless Line : Whose Plumb of Truth, with never-fiiiling sway, Makes the joined parts of symmetry obey. SUTTER LODGE, A. Y. M. 301 Hail to the craft, at whose serene command The gentle arts in glad obedience stand ; Whose magic stroke bids fell confusion cease, And to the finished orders yield its place — Who calls creation from the womb of earth, And gives imperial cities glorious birth! To works of art her merits not confined, She regulates the morals, squares the mind — Corrects with care the tempest-working soul. And points the tide of passions where to roll. On Virtue's tablets marks each sacred rule. And forms her Lodge an universal school, Where Nature's mystic laws unfolded stand, And sense and science joined, go hand in hand. Oh, may her social rules instructive spread. Till Truth erects her long-neglected head — Till through deceitful night she darts her ray. And beams full glorious in the blaze of day — Till man by virtuous maxim learns to move. Till all the peopled world her laws approve, And the whole human race be bound in Brother's Love. On the evening of April 30th, "Sutter Lodge, Ancient York Masons," was organized by Deputy G. M. John A. Tutt, under a dispensation from the Grand Lodge of California. The lodge commenced with eighteen members ; among whom were the fol- lowing officers : E. J. Willis, W. M. ; C. E. Thorn, S. W. ; Addison Martin, J. W. In addition to the Masons' and Odd Fellows' Hosjoital, there were several private hospitals in Sacramento City. Their location, the names of the proprietors and tariff of prices, are fully set forth in the following advertisements, published in the. Transcript : 302 nilVATE HOSPITALS. "TkR. DOWS Tliomsonian llosintal ^-^ and Botanic Moilioine Store, on K st., be- twoen lM mill :W. Pr. V>. roturns his siiuore thanks to his ThoinsouiiUi frioiids for their very liberal support durinix the hiit soasun, and will cnileavor to merit its contiiiuaiu'C. Haviiisx eiilarvred his house, anil added many beds, and as he atU'uiis on patients jiorsonally, he feels eontident, after a praitii'al exinrieneo of 23 years, he shall be able to f;ivo Ins i>atients general satisfaition. llavin-j a birvre stoek of medieine on hand, he is prepared to sn)iply I'hysieians in the mines ftt wholesale, eheaper than any other house in Cali- fornia. Price of admission to the ho.. ?S, ?10, $15, 820, and S2o, according to trouble and ex- pense. aplO 3m Medical Partnership. iOCTORS T. J. WHITE and C. D. CLEVEL.VND have as!?ooiated them- selves in the practice of Jl/<(//W»f, Surijcrii and Obstet- rics, and have established an extensive IU>si)ital. that will accommodate one hundred patients, on the cor- ner of Ninth and L streets: where one of the parties can always be found, and the other at the counting room ot rani. ^\ hite it Co. Dr. White's personal attention will, at nil times, be devoted to such cases as luay bo entrusted to his care. apl2-3m ilJUTTER'S FORT HOSPITAL; ^^ inside tlie Fort, by Drs. James S. Martin and r>. U. Carman, having been thorontrhly repaired, is now ready for the coiufiutable accommodation of patients. Tlie salubrity of the location is evident to evcrv one. The Hospital beins in a lar.ire adobe build- inar. it is exempt from that extreme hoat which is inci- dent to this climate during the summer. Terms mode- Ate. Keferences— Dr. T. G. Chapman. Dr. J. B. Bridsman, Dr. S. McClure. Dr. S. P. Thomas, Dr. L. A. BirdsiUl, Dr. Deal, Dr. \V. Bryarlj\ aplG 3m Besides the foregoing, Drs. Morse and Stillman ran a hospital at the corner of K and Third Streets, but either professional etiquette or excessive modesty prevented them from advertising. About the middle of ^lay, the elite of Sacra- mento City were thrown into spasms by the follow- ing marriage in high life : Married, On Wednesdav ovcnini:. tlie I'th inst.. br the Rev. Mr. Moorliou.-c. WM. C. Vol NU. Lj;q.. of this citv. to Miss lA'CY A. BARNES, daughter of Henry Barnes, Esq.. of I'hiladelphia. A MARRIAGE. 303 The following editorial notice of the event ap- peared in the Transcript of May IStli : The most genteel affair that we have as yet witnessed in California, came off in this city night before last. We have heretofore been inclined to yield to the ball given at San Fran- cisco, in the Hall of the California Guards, the precedence over all other fashionable assemblages; but the affair night before last stands pre-eminently the first. There was nothing like effort apparent, but all was ease and gentility. The bride was dressed in white satin, trimmed with flowers. Her dark hair was braided in the most elegant style, and a beautiful white veil added its airy grace to her person. The bi-idegroom was tastefully dressed in black, with white satin vest and neck- erchief. The bridesmaid attracted scarcely less attention than the bride. A splendid specimen bracelet, a present from the bridegroom, graced her arm, and lace caught up with flowers added to the beauty of her rich satin dress. The ceremony was the most impressive of the kind that it has ever been our good fortune to witness. The j^arties were married according to the Episcopal ritual. They were impressed with the spirit of the solemn act, and every response was clear, distinct and heartfelt. May the Goddess of Happiness strew their pathway with flowers. The beautiful cottage, which has been an enigma for many weeks to some of our citizens, is tastefully and elegantly fur- nished. The music was excellent, and the merry hours sped swiftly and silently away. Our sincerest Avish is, that " adown life's valley, hand in hand, With grateful change of grave and merry speech, Or song, their hearts unlocking each to each, They'll journey onward to the silent land !" On the 22d of April, our cotemporary, the Placer Times, puhlished by E. Gilbert & Co., and edited by Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence, commenced 304 THE PLACER TIMES. its tri-woekly jniblicatlon on Mondays, Wednesdays and Haturdays, idtornating Avith the Transcript; therefore, tlie citizens had a newspaper on every morning of the week, Sunday excepted. Colonel Joseph E. Lawrence, Mr. Jesse Giles's successor in the editorial management of the Times, was born on Long Island, but was a resident of New Orleans when the gold fever broke out in the States, and emigrated from that city to California, on mule back, via Mexico and Lower California. CHAPTEH XVIII. Commercial advantages of Sacramento City — New buildings — First daily issue of the Transcript — The Placer Times follows suit — Sell my interest in the Transcript to Mr. G. C. Weld — Death of Mr. Weld — Tribute to his memory — Cap- tain John A. Sutter — Sutter's Fort — Attack on the Fort by the Indians — They are re^Dulsed — Hock Farm. Sacramento City is, at tins time, in point of commercial advantages and population, the second city in California. Its j^opulation is variously es- timated at from five to seven thousand, including floating population. A year ago it contained scarcely half a dozen tents and shanties, and a bridle-path led from the bank of the Sacramento River to Sutter's Fort. Its growth during the past ten months has been almost magical. Here labor asks its own price, and its beck commands capital. No chartered institu- tions have monopolized the great avenues to wealth; no aristocracy, grown proud from the long 2:)osses- sion of exclusive privileges, can obtain a foothold or assert supremacy. Circumstances have established a level, in which it is honorable to be, from which every one has an equal chance to rise, and where merit is the only sure guarantee of success. Neither business nor capital can oppress labor in California. Whenever its rights are invaded, the gulches and cafions that lead down tlie western slope of the Sierra Nevada will furnish a safe retreat, where (307) 308 INDEPENDENCE AND MUTUAL DEPENDENCE. labor will obtain a ricli reward, until its end is gained and the powers that oppress it yield to necessity and consent to do jnstice. A general independence is observable in the people here, which is the inevitable result of their mutual relation. All classes are alike dependent upon each other, and obligations are mutually in- curred. The rich men of to-day wxre adventurers yesterday. How natural, then, that they should respect labor, by which they have accomplished their success. Few can be found who have secured a competency by their own exertions who do not feel a conscious pride in acknowledging it. Labor will continue to hold the first position in California. Kich and exhaustless as are her natural resources, they have slumbered in the bowels of the earth since creation, and the world could never be ben- efited by them, without the judicious application of bone and muscle — the real capital of the world. The consciousness once spread throughout the people, that they can depend upon themselves with safety, has forcibly acquainted them with the tre- mendous strength that lies latent among them, which increases in them still more the feeling of self- reliance. Their opinions are heard at the corners of the streets; they stand, in all their vigor, in public assemblages ; and every tone of their voices speaks of independence, of calm determination, and of self-reliance. Those who have immigrated here are, in most cases, the cream of the populace. A manly, vigorous, intelligent race of freemen, capa- ble of meeting any emergency, have seized upon the COMMEKCIAL ADVANTAGES. 809 liills and valleys, and California will, in less than five years' time, make herself felt among the nations of the world, either directly as a free land, or indi- rectly by her stern independence of feeling. Her voice will he respected, her decision will he looked for. She is the most practical of coramnnities ; and yet there is genius here. The pale-faced poet has stolen in upon us, and now and then, amid the din of building towns, his fine strain is heard. The painter, the musician, the artist — all are here. Stern life brings them down to the practical, but they are here, and will, in time, make themselves felt. Female society will be here soon, and then what more can be asked for? It is not strange, then, that this feeling of self-reliance should be so strong and broadcast in the land. Witli a country so rich in resources ; so blest in a people to man- age it, the future destiny of California is one of the sublimest subjects for contemplation that can be presented to the mind. The rapidly-increasing commerce of Sacramento City presents the strongest reasons for making it a port of entry. It is situated at the head of ship- navigation on the Sacramento Kiver. A few miles above the city a bar stretches across the river, and tlie water from that point up is so shoal as to be navigable only by steamboats and vessels of light draft. From Sacramento City down to the Bay of San Francisco, navigation is unobstructed. At the very lowest stages of the water last summer and fall, vessels came up to Sacramento drawing ten feet and a half of water. The bark Uiidme came up late in 310 THE FINE LEVEE OF SACRAMENTO. August last drawing ten feet. The bark An?i Welsh, o90 tons, came up last October, drawing ten feet, and the bark Strafford, lying at the Levee as a prison-shijD for the city, came up in September last, drawing ten feet and seven inches of water. The latter is 314 tons, custom-house measurement, and has a capacity of 5,000 barrels. Sacramento has an excellent Levee, alongside of which ships can lie with safety, and upon which they can discharge their cargoes Avithout the expense of lightering. AVhen the rivers are at their very lowest j^oint, the water immediately alongside of Front Street and the Levee of the American E-iver is from two and one-half to three fathoms deep. The river in front of the city is a quarter of a mile wide, giving ample room for the working of vessels. The Levee for a mile along Front Street is lined with vessels, and in some places they are two deep. Tliey number upwards of twenty ships and barks, and thirty brigs. There are also a large number of schooners and other small craft. The distance from San Francisco is 104 miles. Ves- sels have come up from the bay in twenty-four hours, and the passage, at the longest, seldom exceeds four days. In a short time steam-tugs will ply on the river. Sacramento is not only at the head of shiji-navi- gation, but it is the natural metropolis for the rich and extensive mines of the north, south and middle forks, Yuba, Feather and Bear llivers. Deer Creek, Cosumne, Dry Creek and the Upper Sacramento, together with all the dry-diggings contiguous. From this extensive section of the mining country, excellent I I'll I :' ' ):lMf .', jih.h'iil ;■ 'i ; !•■ ' l.„. ^^C<. ■',,'''" ' '" „ IMPKOVEMENTS IN THE CITY. 313 roads, in the dry season, converge to Sacramento City as the nearest and by far the greatest entrepot and depot. Along these roads hundreds of teams toil daily, supplying this vast mining region with provisions, clothing and other necessary articles of consumption. To supply the Sacramento market, which is thus continually drained, steamers and vessels of heavy burden arrive daily from San Fran- cisco, in which merchandise, after having been dis- charged there, is rcshipped to Sacramento City. Already have two hundred vessels cleared from the States for Sacramento City direct ; and the advan- tages of this move are ajiparent from the fact that the cost of reshipment from San Francisco to Sac- ramento exceeds, to a considerable amount, that of shipment from New York to San Francisco. While the work on the Levee was progressing, improvements were going on rapidly on Second and J Streets. Tlie former street has undergone an almost complete metamorphosis. A number of large and well-constructed buildings are completed, or rapidly approaching that j^oint — buildings, tasty and handsome in their outward ap2oearance, and well calculated to ornament the city. Above J Street, there are four buildings of this descri2Dtion. A new building on the corner above the theatre, owned by Lee & Cornwall, designed for the ipost- office, is nearly finished, and stands in agreeable contrast to the ruin of the old adobe opjiosite ; showing how rapidly the customs of our own race are doing away with those of the former occupants of the soil. The Tehama Theatre needs only a 814 BUILDING THE ORDER OF THE DAY. little outside j^olisli to give it an imjiosing appear- ance. A little nearer J Street, two other two-story houses, also owned by Lee & Cornwall, have arisen within a few days. Crossing J Street, between the office of the Transcript and the fine brick building, corner of J and Second Streets, a si:)leudid three- story structure, fronting forty-five feet on Second Street, is nearly completed. A few steps further down, on the oj'iposite side of the street, two large two-story buildings will be completed in a few days. A little further down the street, is the cottage of Mr. William C. Young, nearly ready for occujiancy. J Street is also making rapid strides in improve- ments of various kinds. Through its whole length may be seen the most gratifying evidences of the energy and enterprise of its merchants. Besides the general improvements going on, in glutting up new fronts, awnings and sidewalks, twelve new buildings are being constructed. Ten of these build- ings are two and a half stories high, fronting from twenty to thirty-five feet on J Street, and running back from forty to sixty feet. It is now a settled fact, that the day for doing successful business in the open air or in canvas tents, has gone by, and con- sequently no one thinks of putting up a new build- ins: that is not of a character to confer credit on the city. One of the finest buildings in California, in respect to dimensions and architecture, is going up between Second and Third Streets, adjoining the Humboldt. It is forty feet front by one hundred and twenty-five feet deeji, and two stories high. The whole lower story will constitute a single saloon, TWO "dailies" m sacramento. 315 throiigli the centre of which, at short intervals, are massive pillars to supj^ort the ceiling. The entire second story is designed for a dancing hall, and it will surpass anything of the kind in California. K Street is also beginning to show signs of improve- ment. The proprietors of the Transcript have purchased a lot on this street, above Second, on which they are erecting a fire-proof brick building, two stories high, to wliich they will remove their office on the 1st of July. On the first day of June, the Transcript began its daily publication, with the following editorial announcement : Such is the size of Sacramento City, and such has become its importance as a commercial mart, that we feel it to be due to the public, due to our patrons, due to ourselves, as the con- ductors of a public enterprise, no longer to remain stationary, while all else around us is improving in a truly liberal and energetic manner. Newspapers are looked to as an index by which the importance of the localities they represent may be judged. Since we could no longer do justice to the public as chroniclers of passing events, Ave have decided to commence Avith this number the issue of the " Daily Sacramento Tran- script," the first daily newspaper in California out of San Francisco. When Ave remember that it is not yet fiA^e months since the first daily pajDer was established in California, it will be seen that Sacramento City is not far behind, if she did start after the race was well begun elscAvhere. Ten days later, June 10th, the Transcripfs co- temporary, the Placer Times, came out daily in a new typographical dress. On the first day of July, I sold my interest in 18 316 DEATH OF GILBERT C. WELD. the Transcript to Mr. Gilbert C. Weld, California correspondent of tlie New York Journal of Com- merce ; and on the same day the proprietors of that journal moved into their new fire-proof brick building on K Street above Second. Althongh having no pecuniary interest in the Tra^iscrij^t, I remained in charge of the business department of the paper until the latter j^art of August. Soon after purchasing my interest in the Transcript, Mr. Weld was prostrated by an attack of typhoid fever. He was for a few days an inmate of Drs. Morse & Stillman's hospital, but was subsequently removed to a private boarding-house, kept by a Mr. and Mrs. Aldrich, on K Street near Fifth, where, despite the best medical treatment that could be procured and careful nursing, he passed from eai'th to that bourn whence no traveler returns, on the evenino; of the 9tli of Auirust. Mr. Weld was a ready and graceful writer and a man of decided genius. Had he lived, he would have made a shining mark in California journalism. The Tran- script of August 10th was jDublished with inverted column-rules, draped in mourning, with the follow- ing obituary of the deceased, written by Mr. F. C. Ewer : This morning a melancholy duty devolves upon us. Death has snatched from our midst one Avho, though newly come among us, had endeared himself to our hearts as a brother. It is the foirest flower of our garden that is plucked. A voice that we listened to for instruction, that cheered us through the trying hours, that joined with us in our mirth, that was full of wisdom and of love, and consolation and hope, is hushed A TEIBUTE TO HIS WOETH. 317 forever. Oh, how will kindred hearts, iu a land that is far away, be wrung with anguish ! By our side are the miniatures of his beautiful wife and three lovely children, whose hearts must soon feel the keen pangs known only to the widow and the orphan. A lovely daughter passed away but a few months since, and nearly broke the heart of the solitary father. Now he has gone to meet her. The intelligence of his bereavement cast a gloom over his silent moments which it was impossible to shake off. It was in one of these spells that his soul burst forth, as if by inspiration, in the following gush of feeling : " Thy last sweet letter, treasured as a prize, I daily read, and think of thee, dear Mary ; Of all thy beauties, all thy virtues rare. Thy lustrous, bright blue eyes, thy golden tresses, Thy matchless features, and thy seraph voice, Thy tender, loving, sympathizing heart — I think of these, and thousand other graces, And then my stubborn will, prone to rebel, Curses the hand which laid thee low in death, And robbed thy father of his choicest blessing ! . But thou art gone ! Why should I wish thee back ? Thy sufferings are ended — thou art saved ! Saved from the sins, the sufferings of earth. The woes, the griefs which rack thy father's heart ; Freed from temptation, trouble, care and pain ! Saved with a full salvation, rich and free; Boundless as God's benevolence can give. And lasting as thfc Giver. " my soul ! Cease thy rebellings ! God has taken my child From ills to come. What seems to thee a curse Is blessing in disguise. Assuage thy grief, For He who caused the stroke ' doeth all things well !' " 'Tis done ! The bitterness of woe is past — My grief is o'er — my tears shall cease to flow 1 And when my spirit sinks, in days to come, 818 CAPTAIN JOHN A. SUTTER. And gloom, like winter, settles o'er my soul. Thy mcm'ry, IMary, and the blessed thought Tliat thou art hapjjier far than him bereaved, AVill light the gloom, dispel the gathering storm, And leave the fountain in my troubled breast As peaceful as the hill-girt lake in summer. Oh ! I will live, my child, as one who hopes To meet thee in a brighter, better world !" For versatility of talent, for brilliancy of thought, for se- renity of disposition, for genial, social feeling, Mr. "Weld was rarely equaled. He was a man who won upon the affections mysteriously, and he had not an acquaintance that was not his friend. The career before him was brilliant. His writings were graceful, filled with the play of lively fancy, and illu- mined by the light of a brilliant imagination. They had gained for him an enviable fame ; but the withering blast of disease came o'er him, and the liigli anticipations of his friends were blighted. His death was as his life, serene and hopeful. He sank as sinks the star, silent, uncomplaining, beautiful. The hearts of his many friends will be touched with grief; the spirit of his beloved wife will be bowed under the heavy be- reavement ; the tears of his sweet little children will flow as they remember his parting kiss. But the star, though set, is shining still in the heavens. He was a devoted Christian, and unaffectedly pious. He breathed his last at about nine o'clock last evcningj " at peace with God and the world." Caf)tain Jolin A. Sutter, the first white man who settled at New Helvetia, now Sacramento City, came overland from Jackson County, Missouri, in 183S-9. At that time the country was the abode of savages and wild beasts. Here, in this distant and secluded dej^endeucy of imbecile Mexico, he determined to rear the standard of American free- dom. Such was the intention and feeling of this HIS ENTERPllISE AND DARING. oUl veteran soldier, wlieu lie conceived the ide;i of uniting tliis land of gold, the liidc between Asi:i iind America, completing a commercial chain, now en- compassing the whole world. The privations, hard- ships, mental anxiety and peril, necessarily encount- ered by Captain Sutter, during this long period, cannot be adequately depicted. Kepeatedly the savage foe, under various pretexts, sought his life ; and to good judgment, prom2)tness and energy, does he owe his continued existence. At one time, while conversing with a friend in the fort, at a late hour of the night, a sudden noise burst upon their ears. The savages had entered the walls of the fort. The Captain and his friends were saved by a faith- ful dog, that suddenly s})rang at the throats of the intruders and felled them, one by one, to the ground, until several were dangerously wounded and the rest lied. The wounded Indians confessed the plot. Captain Sutter has vacated the fort at Sacramento, removed to Hock Farm aiul turned his attention to farming. This farm is situated on a high and beautiful plain, on the Feather lliver, about 8 miles below Yuba City, and comprises about six hundred acres, ai'ound which a deep ditch has been dug. Near the bank of the river, and close to the steam- boat landing, stand the residence and outbuildings of Captain Sutter. Above and below these are large gardens, which, in their appearance, give the best possible evidence that California is not allu- gether the barren, uni^roductive region it is some- times reported. The hartly pioneer who owns this 322 HOCK FAEM. place lias heard tlie unfavorable report, concerning liis adopted home, and he is laboring to show all "vvho are open to conviction that the earth, even in California, will reward the husbandman for his toil. He is sanguine of success, and has good reasons for his exjoectations. A large variety of vegetables are in a flourishing state, while of radishes, lettuce, onions and beets, he has enough and to spare. Nearly every steamboat that touches at Hock Farm brings away a choice variety of the products of his gardens to regale his friends at a distance. Back of these gardens are large fields of wheat, and to see them is all that is necessary to convince the beholder of the adaptation of the soil and climate to the j^ro- duction of this important article of consumption. Here, in one field, are eighty acres, and in the best grain sections of the States it would be difficult to find a more even and healthy-looking crop. Indian corn is also receiving attention here, but thus far its appearance is not veiy flattering. A space of about half an acre has been thickly planted with a choice variety of the graj^e, and the shoots appear from almost every scion, giving the most encouraging hoj)es of a successful cultivation of the vine. CHAPTER XIX. Grand entertainment given at Hock Farm by Captain Sutter — Full report of the affair — Letter from Thomas O. Larkin — Mr. Francis D. Clark and others resolve that one man is as good as another, provided, he behaves himself — The glorious Fourth — Its first celebration in Sacramento City — " The Ancient Order of Bricks" and the Sons of Temperance publish their programmes of exercises — A jolly Fourth of July. On June 2d, Captain Sutter gave a grand enter- tainment at Hock Farm, to wliieli about one hun- dred ladies and gentlemen from Sacramento City were invited. The following report of the afiair appeared in the Transcript two days afterward : Day before yesterday we found ourselves in the midst of a delightful party of about one hundred ladies and gentlemen on board of the Governor Dana. The steamer left the foot of K Street about half-past eight, A. M. Hundreds of spectators stood upon the Levee and on the neighboring vessels watching her departure. The band was playing on the upper deck ; the ladies and gentlemen were collected under the awnings ; her flags were flying ; the sun was shining brightly, while at the same time a cool breeze was blowing ; in short, everything augured a pleasant time. There Avere two things that could be depended upon : No rough weather was to be looked for, to discompose the placidity of a hundred breakfasts and cause "noise, confusion," etc., and no fears were to be entertained that a rain-storm would come up to mar the pleasure of the occasion. The crowd on board were congenial to each other,, and commenced forthwith to enjoy themselves by taking the (323) 324 SUTTER ENTERTAINS AT IIOC'K FARM. proper ])rej):u'atory steps. The stoiiiiicr diirU'd swill ly U[) the river, leaving Sacramento behind, and carrying away from it a luindred liappy hearts. Tlio usnal ainnsing small-talk on those highly important snbjects, " charming day," " extpiisite weather," etc., passed between certain of the ladies and gentle- men, leaving behind a strikingly apparent and a semi-serio- comic dearlh of other matter, while tlio ladies looked at the opposite baidc of the river in the interim, and the gentlemen stood with smiling conntenances and glistening eyes all ready to listen to any snbjeet that any one in the vicinity might suggest. Meanwhile others, the older and more sedate, were exhausting the weightier topics of "invigorating breezes" and the distant Sierra Nevada. Editors were asked the latest news ; physicians answiM'ed learnedly interrogatories as to the state of health in the Sacramento Valley ; the scpiatter ques- tion was discussed, and the wrongs suffered by California were not forgotten. The crowd soon become ae(piainU'd with each other, and these merry meetings warm the heart and ilraw the mind away from the sternness of business and expand the social feeling. The Gorcnior Dana is an excellent boat. The river was placid and she steamed swiftly up, now grazing one bank of the winding stream and now ])assing under the shade of the trees upon the other. Fremont was soon reaclu'd. The towns-peoi)lo were down to see the landing. The American flag was flying from the j)ole on the Levee, and the music of the band Mas lieard in the interval between the cheers which, as we touched the Levee, arose from those who had come out to welcome us to their town. After a reinforcement of ladies and gentlemen from Frc>mont had stepped on board, we left and touched at the oi)posite town of Vernon. Then striking from Sacramento into the Feather, wo wended our rai)id way to Nicholaus. Ebcrhardt was ready to receive the guests, who dined at his excellent hotel. The next place wo stopped at was riumas. This town flourishes finely, having grown up since our last trip to Marys- ville, some two months ago. After passing the steamci'S Martha Jane and Linda on their TIUP UP THE SACRAMENTO. 325 way from Marysvillo to Sacrainoiito, hoLli of Avliidi mo saluted, wo reached Hock Farm, wluiro the great pioneer of (JiiliCoriiiii stood upon the bank to nuieive us. The arrival at this place was one of tho most interesting parts of the trip. As we rounded into sigiit, our coming was announced by the blowing of tin; whistles This was responded to by the firing of cannon on the baidc of tho river in front of Captain Sutter's house. Amid the echoes, our band slrnriv up "Hail Columbia," and as we ncarcd, another report i'vuui the cannon was responded to by tho crowd upon our deck, who raised nine hearty cheers for tho inmates of Hock Farm, f Japtain Sutter and his family camo forth from tho house and down to the edge of the bank. One more report from tho cannon and tho plaidc was thrown to tho shore, and the crowd poured out of tho boat, as this was their place of destination. Caplain Sutter, after recognizing his old acquaintaiuHjs in his usual cordial manner, ste})})ed ])ack into the spacious in(;losure iu front of his house, where ho received his i'riends and was introduced to his other guests. The Indians who stood in crowds upon the bank wctc thunder- struck, not less with the whole scene tiian with tlu; music from the band. Captain Sutter informed us tliat this was tho first time they had heard anything of the kind. A long tabic was set in the shade in front of the houses, loaded with the d(!lica(!ies of the season. Tho company seated tluimselvcs under the direction of General Winn, tho agent of Captain Sutter, wiio had previously been appointed by the company Master of Ceremonies. Captain Sutter and family took seats at the centre of the long table; the ladies sat at his right and left; General Winn sat at one end, and the rest of the comjjany seated themscilves promiscuously at tho table. The time was passed very sociably and at last tho regular toasts came off. The first was drunk by the whole c()mpany, standing, it was — 1. To Mrs. Sutter. Captain Sutter responded on behalf of his lady and gave — 2. A hearty welcome to tho ladies and gentlemen at Hock Farm, Music, '^lail Columbia." 326 THE TOASTS. After a pleasant little talk by which the Master of Cere- monies brought the company to order, the following toasts, which have been handed to us by the Secretary, were then given : 3. By Mr. Stephens — Captain Sutter first, Captain Sutter last. 4. By Mr. Morrill — To the ladies of California ! God bless them. 5. By Mr. Johnson — Miss Sutter. 6. By Mr. Fendrick — To the welfare of California and Hock Farm. 7. By Mr. Hamilton — John A. Sutter, the Pioneer of Cal- ifornia. 8. By Mr. L. E, Boren — May the despots of all nations be dethroned and Republicanism be triumphant. 9. By Mr. Gore — Captain Sutter ; his hospitality will always be imprinted on our hearts and never forgotten. 10. By INIr. W. E, Moody — Hock Farm, the remembrance of which will always cause our hearts to be warm, 11. By General Winn — The World, may it all be Re- publican. Two toasts were then given — one to our host and hostess and the other to the Captain of the Governor Dana. C. H. Pierson then rose and gave — To our absent mothers and fathers, wives and children. Bachelors and maidens all arose and drank heartily to this toast. Mr. Sweezy then gave a toast which he read from a piece of paper. We were unable to procure it subsequently. We regret this as it was an excellent one. A gentleman then arose in behalf of Miss F., of Yuba City, and gave — May all proprietors be as agreeable toward the ladies as the proprietors of Veazie City. General AVinn then gave a toast, which, if the Secretary understood correctly, was — May the charity of Californians equal the charitable feelings of Captain Sutter. 17. By a lady — Captain Sutter: the man Avho taught the Digger Indians how to dig ! THE KETUEN. 327 18. Mr. "Wilder proposed Sacramento. 19. By General Winu — California, may it be settled by those wlio have daughters and sons willing to enjoy themselves in this country ! This was a toast which breathed the spirit of a true Califor- niau, who has set the example of his precept. 20. His eldest daughter then gave — To absent friends ! 21. Mr. Buscara of China — The friends of Captain Sutter! 22. By George W. Tyler — Captain Sutter and California — the fame of the former is world-wide and inseparably connected with the latter ! The following was given by a gentleman, name unknown — The Beauties of California, the wild flowers and the tame ladies. Colonel Grant was called upon and gave — Brigadier-General Winn, a brave and good soldier ; may he, in his march through life, never be in want of good pay and plenty of rations. Mr. Bust gave — The reunion of the family of Captain Sutter. Mrs. Winn gave, through her husband — To the ladies now on their way to California. Mr. Latson gave — To Peter H. Burnett, the first American Governor of California. After it had been moved and carried by acclamation, " that the thanks of the company be given to Ca2:)taiu Sutter for his princely hospitality," the party adjourned. About half-past six the company took their leave, delighted with the hospitable treatment they had received ; and, after giving nine cheers for Hock Farm, the boat pushed from the shore. The band struck up " Yankee Doodle," and we wended our way back to Sacramento. The distance up and back was about 130 miles. The speed of the Governor Dana can be judged somewhat by this. We are confident that we echo the feelings of every one present when we say that it will be long before the pleasure- trip to Hock Farm will be effaced from our memories. In the month of July the proj^rietors of the Tran- script received the following letter from Mr. Thomas 328 A SHORT BUT CAPITAL LETTER. O. Larkin, for many years American Consul at Monterey. ]\Ir. Larkin's letter is copied in order to show how a Californian feels when he visits the States, after becoming fairly attached to the country of his adoption : Irving House, New York, May 27th, 1850. Messrs. Fitch, Upham & Co., Sacramento, California, Gentlemen: — By favor of Mr. Cornwall, I am in possession of your Sacramento Tra^iscript. There is no improvement in California that pleases me more than the issuing of another newspaper in that young and advancing State. I owe much to California, and my last breath shall be spent in that ac- knowledgment. That myself and wife might visit the laud of our birth, after eighteen years' absence, caused me to leave that country ; and the education of the first ch ildren born there of United States' parents — rather of United States mother* — causes us to remain here for the present. Please put me down on your list as a subscriber — direct to New York. I am, with much respect, Thoivias O. Larkin. A strong prejudice against foreign miners existed throughout the northern and southern mines. Most Americans seemed to think that a foreigner had no rights which they were bound to respect. The inhabitants of Georgetown seemed to think differ- ently, as will be seen by the following resolutions unanimously adopted at a public meeting, and signed by Francis D. Clark, Chairman, and others: 1. Resolved, That all men shall have permission to live in this camp, without being in any way molested. * There were many of foreign fathers and California mothers. , PREPARING FOR THE FOURTH. 329 2. Resolved, That the civil law shall be sustained, and that all those under the civil law shall be supported. 3. Resolved, That two hundred and fifty copies of these resolutions be printed in English and Spanish, and distributed through the various diggings. Francis D. Clark, Chairman. John Powers, E. Montgomery, William Turner, T. Jefferson Wells, William B. McElvoy, John F. Worth, P. Courtrell, a. Turner, Georgetown, Tuolumne County. During tlie month of June, the citizens of Sacra- mento City became very patriotic and set about devising means to celebrate the " Glorious Fourth " in a becoming manner. The "Ancient and Honor- able Order of Bricks " held a meeting and promul- gated the following order of exercises : At a meeting of the Ancient and Independent Order of "Bricks," held at the City Hotel, in Sacramento City, June 12th, 1850, officers present: A. M. AVinn, Brigadier-General, President ; Frank Bates, Esq., Vice-President ; George Mc- Kinstry and J. Bawden, Secretaries. The officers being seated, and the meeting organized, on motion, 1st. It was Resolved, That we will celebrate the 4th day of July next in an appropriate manner ; and for this purpose Captain J. A. Sutter and all other '■' Bricks " be requested to attend. 2d. It was Resolved, That one gun for each State be fired from Sacramento City, Sutter and Sutter's Fort, at sunrise, and that the American flag be hoisted at each place. 3d. It was Resolved, That Captain Sutter and his old Cali- fornia friends be invited to attend, and head the procession. 4th. It was Resolved, That the celebration of the 4th of July should be public and free to all, and that the ladies be invited to attend. 330 PKELIMINARY RESOLVES. 5tli. It was Resolved, That a Barbecue and Bear Dance be provided for the occasion. 6th. It was Resolved, That forty managers be nominated to superintend the celebration of the 4th of July. 7th. It Avas Resolved, That the Ancient Order of Free Masons, the Order of Odd Fellows, the INIunicipal Authorities of San Francisco and Sacramento City, and the Military and Fire Companies, the Sons of Temperance, and other benevolent institutions of Sacramento City, be invited to attend. 8th. It was Resolved, That the Attorney-General be re- quested to deliver the oration, and that Geo. McKinstry, Esq., read the Declaration of Independence. 9th. It was Resolved, That the Governor and his staff, the Major-Geueral and Brigadier-Generals and their staffs of this division, be also requested to attend. 10th. It Avas Resolved, That Captain Sutter be added to the list of Managers, and that his name be jilaced at the head of the list. 11th. It was Resolved, That the captains of vessels in port be requested to hoist their flags at sunrise, and that they and their crews be invited to attend the procession in a body. And then, according to the resolutions adopted, the following gentlemen were appointed ]\Ianagers : Captain J. A. Sutter, Hock Farm ; His Excellency, P. II. Burnett, Governor ; J. McDougall, Lt. Governor ; JNIaj. Gen. T. J. Green, Brig. Gen. Eastland, Brig. Gen. A. M. Winn, Col. H. E. Robinson, J. P. Rodgers, Maj. J. S. Fowler, Maj. IMurray jNIorrison, IMaj. N. E. Latson, INIaj. J. P. Hughes, Maj. W. Bryarley, Maj. T. Emory, Col. G. A. Grant, Capt. W. E. 'Shannon, Lt. A. H. BarbeV, Capt. Ilammerslcy, IMaj. Justus McKiustry, INIaj. P. B. Read- ing, Maj. Snowdeu, Hon. S. C. Hastings, Hon. H. Bigelow, Hon. J. Bigler, Hon. E. O. Crosby, Dr. T. J. White, Mr. D. Strong, Mr. J. McDowell, Hon. j. L. Thomas, Hon. B. F. Washington, Hon. C. E. Lackland, Hon. E. J. Willis, Dr. Frank Bates,, Mr. Geo. McKinstry, Mr. Saml. Korris, Mr. J. W. Hastings, Mr. Wm. Dowlin, INIr. J. Bowden, Mr. Samuel Brannan, Hon. T. J. Henley, ]Mr. Barton Lee. On motion, it was Resolved, That the IManagei's be re- WHICH WERE NOT CAREIED OUT. 331 quested to meet at the City Hotel, on Wednesday next, the 10th inst., at seven P. M. Resolved, That the Editors of the Placer Times and Sacra- mento Tnmscript be requested to publish these proceedings. Signed: A. M. WINN, President. FRANK BATES, Vice Pres. Signed : Geo. McKinstry, } q, , ■ ' y /Secretaries. Joseph Bawden, j For some unexplained reason, tlie adjourned meeting of the "Bricks" did not take j^lace, and only two of the schemes for celebrating the Fourth of July were carried out — that of the Sons of Tem- perance and the celebration at Brighton, on the south bank of the American Kiver, about five miles from Sacramento City. The first Fourth of July celebration in Sacramento City passed off in a blaze of glory, in accordance with the following pro- grammes, and the participants were happy : Fourtli of July Celebration, AT THE PAVILION, BRIGPITON. ORDER OF EXERCISES. 4®=- Under the direction of Major A. C. Latson, one gun for each state will be fired, C'timmencing at sunrise. On the arriviil of tlie procession from Sacramento, the Declaration of Inde- pendence will l)e read by George McKinstry, Esq., and an oration by Col. E. J. C. Kcwcn ; after w hich a splendid Dinner will be swerved at the I'avilion for as many as desire to partake. In the evening a splendid Ball Soiree and supper will be given in tlie spacinus saloon. The Pavilion is unsurpassed by any public house in this country, furni.shing ample occommodatiuns for all ; private rooms for families, newly furnished, and the whiile house fitteil fur the comlnrt of regular or transient visitors. A band of music will be in attendance during the day and evening. The ball soiree will be under the direction of the following gentlemen : Hunomnj Managers. Capt. J. A. Sutter, Hon. Hardin Bigelow, Gen. A. M. Winn, Col. J. B. Starr, D. G. Whitney, Esq., Geo. McKinstry, " R. D. Merrill, " Barker Burnell, " J. 11. Ilardenbergh, Esq., J. A Haines, Esq., J. W. Winans, Acting Mnnaqi I Col. E. J. C. Kewen, F. C. Ewer, Esq., Dr. W. Bryarly, J. E. Lawrence, Esq., Hon. C. C. Sackett, J. Sherwood, Esq., A. C. Monson, " Col. T. A. Warbass, Maj. J P.Hughes, Col. Jonn S. Fowler, Col. II. E. Robin.son. >8®* Omnibuses will run from Sacramento to the Pavilion at all hours of the day. jy2-3t J' *' rAHTERS, ) t Div. (", M. Y .uel2'Jth, ISoO.J 332 FOURTH OF JULY PROGRAMMES. Foarth of July. JB7S~ At a moptlnp of tlio I'liciflo Stnr Division No. 1 , of tho Order of the Pons of TomporiUico, licld at tlioir Hull on J street, Juno "Jllh. lS.'iO, it was niiiuiimously Uf;n'('il tDcelelii'iito tlie comiiiLr Aiiniversury of our Nation's IuU"be li'red at sunrise, w hen the flags at each of those points, as well as tlie llu,i;s of tlie shiupiup; iu i>ort, will be hoisted. Music—" Hail Columbia." Immediately alter each regular round and simultaneous with each giui at Sacramento City, the shipping will lire their guns. A sahue of tliirteen guns will be lired for Capt. .Tohn A.Sutter, from Sutter's Fort, at \1 o'clocU. under tho snperiutendeueo of JIaj. John S. Fowler. The nieinbers of tlie stall', ami tlio>o iutendiug to take part in the morning celebration, will meet at tho City Hotel at S o'clock, ou the evening of tho M of Jiilv, Capt, Sutter, his old California friends, and the Brigadier General and stall will join the general procession at half past 11 o'clock. liy order of Brig. General A. 51. AVINN, jy2 John S. Ft)Wi.i:R, Aid. Fourtli of July. JKlfr- An Oration will be delivereil and a cold eollation served up at Washington, opposite Sacramenlo City, ou tho Fourth of July, at the spacious Hall of Capt. M. T. Coon. The Tacillc Star Division Sons of Temperance, No. 1, will be present. The citizens of .Sacramento, Fremont, Marvsville, Yuba City, Eli/a and Nicholaus. aie partieularlv invited. A steamer wilTleavo Marvsville at an early hour on iho morning ot"' the -1111. to arrive at AVashingtim in time for the festivities of the day. I'rogriuume: 1st. A salute of thirteen guns will be lired at sunrise, when the stars and stripes \\\\\ be unlurled to the breeze. •M. At I'i o'clock, M., a salute of thirteen guns, when the Sons of Temperance will embark from Sacramenlo City, and on their arrival will bo escorted to tlie dining hall, by the citizens of Wasiiington and visitors. od. The exercises will commence at 3 o'clock, 1'. M., with 1st. Music. 2d. Kcading of the Declaration of Independence, by Dr. IT. A. Weeks, of Fre- mont. ;5d. Oratiim by Wm. M. Zabriskie, Esq. •Itli. Music: llail Ciilumbia. Mil. Saluteof tliirlecn guns at sunset. The hall will be illuminated in the evening, and the whole will conclude with a ball. A baud of music will bo iu tttteudaiico. jyl.2t MAHLON T. COON. CHAPTER XX. Laud-titles in Sacramento City — The squatters organize and mean business — Buildings erected by the squatters demol- ished — The squatters hold incendiary meetings and declare war to the knife — Assessor Woodland and ShcrifFMcKinney killed and Mayor Bigelow dangerously wounded— Burial of Assessor Woodland and Sheriff McKinncy — The citizens organize military companies — Relief for the overland emi- grants — Farewell to Sacramento City. During tlie summer tlie squatter element por- tended trouble. The titles to real estate in Sacra- mento were somewhat mixed, and the squatters contended that they had as much right to the land as those holding titles under Sutter. A squatters' organization was formed, which held frequent meet- ings, and its members made violent and incendiary speeches, which, at first, were considered by the Mayor and more conservative citizens, as mere vaporings ; but they soon learned that the squatters were in dead earnest and meant business. • On the 21st of June, four or five persons, hold- ing property under Sutter's title, demolished a s(piatter's house erected on a lot belonging to one of the party. On the following day, twenty-five or thirty persons made a raid on certain other lots of land which had been seized and a2:>propriated by the squatters. They rej)aired with the proper imple- ments to the Levee just above J Street, partially 19 (333) do4 TROUBLES WITH THE SQUATTEES. destroyod a liouse belonging to a sqnattcr, and tlien shoved it over on to a large tent, also owned by a squatter, wliicli was standing on the adjoining lot. The next lot visited had been seized by a squatter and inclosed by a fence, which was soon demolished. They next commenced the work of devastation upon a house belonging to a squatter, erected on another man's land, which they completely de- stroyed. Quite a number of citizens witnessed the demolition of the buildings, but no opposition was offered. As the party were about dispersing, one of the gentlemen stated that he owned two lots on J Street, over the slough, upon which the squatters had seized, and that he would like to gain posses- sion of his property. The party promptly accom- panied him to his lots, and found that they had been fenced in, but no houses had been erected. The fences were torn down and thrown into the street. The object of the party having been gained, they left for the town. Several of the squatters followed them, and attracted quite a crowd by their vociferous shouting. Much excitement existed in the city. A few days afterward, a squatter who had taken possession of a lot in the outskirts of the city, was asked by a gentleman by what authority he ex- pected to hold the property on which he had squatted. "l>y preemption, of course, '^ was the reply. "Look here," said the gentleman, "what causes the ground here to be so uneven ?" "Why, it has been ploughed," was the answer. THE SQUATTERS HOLD A MEETING. 335 " Well," continued the former, " don't you think the man who ploughed this land has got the start of you ; is he not the oldest settler ?" When the squatter learned that Captain Sutter had actually settled on the land a number of years previously, and had all the title he required to make his property secure until another government assumed jurisdiction, the squatter concluded the ^oreemption law would not reach his case, and immediately pulled up stakes and vamosed to the mines. On the evening of the 1st of July, the squatters held a meeting at the Herkimer House, on Fourth Street. Dr. Kobinson was appointed Chairman, and Mr. Milligan, Secretary. The Secretary stated the object of the meeting, which was to make ar- rangements to meet the suits against them, en masse; each man was now defending himself, on his own hook; the poor could ill afford it; the meeting had been called to form a contract, raise a requisite subscription, and employ the o'lght hind of coun- sel. Mr. Milligan enforced his remarks with an eloquent appeal about the sacred right of the home- stead — a right which every man was bound to pro- tect in justice to himself, etc. After he had con- cluded, Mr. McClatchy offered the following reso- lution : ^^ Resolved, That a committee of two be appointed to confer with the counsel, and inquire as to the terms, etc." Mr. Edwards thought Mr. Milligan's remarks cast reflection upon the counsel who had already 336 DR. Robinson's speech. been employed ; lie tliouglit their counsel were the best, and they deserved great credit. The resolution was amended by increasing the number from two to five. Dr. Robinson said the Common Council had undertaken to legislate in regard to 2)ublic prop- erty — property on which no action can be taken except by the Legislature. He would ask "has the Mayor any right to say what is my property and what is not?" He scouted the idea of landholders making land for themselves. He would disregard the Council, notwithstanding their assumed dig- nity; they were destitute of common sense, and should be regarded accordingly. It has been said, " answer a fool according to his folly ;*' he would say "treat a fool as a fool ;" and if a man showed himself too low to be respected, don't re- spect him. For his part he looked down on the Council — way down — down so low that he could not see them. They were far out of sight of decent men. For his part, he meant to imitate the Mayor, meant to be a big squatter ! It was just as easy to squat on one hundred and sixty acres as on oue acre, and what he didn't need he would give to the poor squatters who are coming along by and by. It was as easy to defend a big piece as a small jnece, and far better to take it themselves than to let the bio- landholders s:et it and sell it. After Dr. o o Robinson had concluded his remarks, the meeting adjourned to give way for a spontaneous meeting of the whole body of squatters, and for a short time they made things lively. squatters' only aims. 337 In about half an hour the meeting reorganized. Dr. Kobinson was again placed in the chair, and Mr. Edwards was appointed Secretary. Mr. McClatchy requested the reading of an article from the Pacific News, which was frequently interrupted with applause and stamping of feet. It was now ^^ Resolved, that a committee of five be chosen, whose duty it shall be to confer with counsel on the subject of land-claims on the part of the settlers, and that all persons in the County of Sacramento who have taken, and may take up land-claims, and will share in the expense, shall reap the benefits." Mr. Burt thought going to law unnecessary, for the whole thing was illegal and could not be sus- tained. Mr. Milligan said the object was to keep their enemies at bay until the question could be brought before a legal tribunal, where justice would be done. He asked nothing but what was right. Squatters were only aiming at justice; satisfy them that Sutter's title w^as good, and they would leave the land as quick as a flea ivould jump off a hot griddle ! The resolution was again read and adopted, and the following committee appointed: Messrs. Wenner, Milligan, Mayhall, Plumbe and Canfield. An additional committee of five w^as then appointed to solicit subscriptions, and as a remuneration for their services, they were allowed to retain five per cent, of the amount collected. The committee consisted of Messrs. Milligan, Wad- den, Wenner, Hays and Washington. The meeting again adjourned to meet on the following evening. Pursuant to adjournment, the squatters met on 66o RAISING MONEY NOT SO EASY tlie following evening. Dr. Hobinson occupied the eliair, and ]\Ir. luhvards acted as Secretary. The committee appointed at the previous meeting was called upon to report. Mr. Milligan, of the sub- scrij)tion committee, stated that the committee was not 3'et prepared to report, and asked for time ; but in answer to several questions as to the j^rogress of the eommittee, replied that he had been in the county, but had unfortunately not succeeded in finding the persons at home whom he went to see. lie had understood that the members of the com- mittee who had canvassed the city had done better than they expected. For his part, he had his hopes and his fears, but he believed they would succeed. He would do the best he could, but if they thought some one else would do better, he would willingly resign ; he had not craved the office ; it was no pleasant task ; he had been sent to a man who he was told was a brother-squatter; he went to see him and asked his assistance, and all he got from the man was the reply, " that he had kno^Yn people to make money by minding their own business !" and with this saying, the worthy squatter jumped on his load and moved off. As he said before, he craved no office, and if the meet- ing thought another would iiU his place better, he was willins: to stav at home and sit in the shade, and if a fly lit on his nose lie would quietly knock it off! The Secretary asked, " How much money has your committee obtained already?" Mr. jMilligan replied, " AVe are not prepared to answer definitely, AS RAISING A BIG TALK. 6o\) but think the subscriptions and cash in tlie city amount to |1,200. His friend, INIr. Allen, had told him lie knew fifteen men who would give liberally, probably $100 each." Mr. Milligan thought if they got that amount it would be a good beginning; not much had been done ; all that part of Squatter-row beyond where he lived had not been canvassed. The chairman. Dr. Kobinson, said that lawyers always like to know where their bread and butter is, and if the money could not all come, they would no doubt ask good security. Now suppose they ask $2,000 down and $2,000 secured, where are your bondsmen? Tliat must be arranged; and if the immigrants are expected to pay a part, some plan must be adopted to let them into the benelits when they come, by paying a fee. If this is not done, the immigrants, when as-kcd to subscribe for what has been done, may say the lawyers are a villainous set of scoundrels, and we will cheat them out of all we can anyhow. So some one ought to be respon- sible, that the coun^^el might feel secure. Mr. Mil- ligan thought the committee themselves ought to be the bondsmen. Mr. McClatchy thought it best to leave the niatter open until next meeting. He desired to go into the country on Sunday if he could steal a horse or borrow one. Sunday was a good day, and collecting squatter subscri})tions a good deed. Dr. Eobinson tendered his horse, and said that the animal had once made $300 on a similar excursion. IMi'. McClatchy accepted the offer. After some further desultory remarks, a committee of three was appointed to draft a proper 340 WHAT A LADY SHOULD BE WORTH, heading for subscriptions, which would make it a joint-stock matter, and if any surplus should be subscribed over and above expenses, if should be divided. Mr. Mayhall was ajipointed one of said committee. Mr. Washington was nominated by a gentleman, who said he did not mean ]\Ir. Kecorder Washington, but Colonel Crawford AVashington; therefore Messrs. Mayhall, Washington, and John W. Carter were the committee. Mr. McClatchy had learned that the committee had refused to take a subscription of less than $25 from any individual. Mr. Edwards knew a lady wdio had given $25. Mr. Milligan thought a lady ought to be loorth $25 in California! if she was worth anything. Mr. Edwards thought this a slur, and there was some cross-firing. After a few remarks by Mr. Plumbe, and a detailed history of the squatter movement by Mr. Edwards, the meeting adjourned. On the evening of July 24th, another squatter meeting was held at the Plerkimer House. The meeting organized by appointing Dr. Merrick, Chairman, and James McClatchy, Secretary. Dr. Kobinson stated the object of the meeting was to take into consideration the matter of lawsuits. He stated that the committee had employed Messrs. Tweed, Aldrich, Mayhall and McKune on equal terms — $1,000 each. These gentlemen had con- sented to do the settlers justice, if they would in turn do their j^art, and pay them a sum of money — which Dr. E,. did not name — in advance. If the issue was successful, the settlers Avere expected to do what they could afford to in addition to the $4,000. GETTING READY TO FIGHT. 341 Of tlie subscriptions, all over i|4,000 to be common stock for the subscribers for their benefit as an association — collector to receive five per cent., and Mr. James McClatchy to be collector. The speaker said he was willing to trust Mr. McClatchy in town, but he Avouldn't be responsible for him when he got out of town ! Mr. McClatchy said he was a law- abiding citizen, but if these speculators were ready to fight, so was he. He would rather fight than collect subscriptions, any day ; and if they showed fight, give them battle, and the devil take the hind- most. Let us 2^ut up all the fences pulled down, and lyut tvp the men %olio fulled them down ! [Great applause and stamping.] After further remarks by Messrs. Kobinson, Burke, Malony and Edwards, the meeting adjourned. On the morning of August 14th the culminating point was reached, and the impending conflict com- menced. On the previous day, James McClatchy and Michael Moran were arrested and taken before Justice Fake, charged with being parties in a con- templated attempt to resist the Sheriff, should he enforce the law in accordance with a decision given by Judge Willis against the squatters. The testi- mony was against the ]3risoners, and in default of bail of $2,000 each, they were both confined in the prison-sliip. On the morning of the 14th, a house on Second Street having been seized by the Sheriff, in accord- ance with the law, the squatters assembled in armed force of about thirty, under a leader by the name of Malony. They proceeded to the house which 342 MAYOK BIGELOW IN THE SADDLE. was in possession of the aiitlioritics and retook it. Their leader then liarungued them, and they pro- ceeded down L Street to the Levee. The party were armed with guns and pistols ; their leader was on horsehack, armed with pistols and a sword. They marched along the Levee toward tlie 2)rison- ship, a crowd of citizens gradually collecting behind them. The report soon spread that their intention was to release the prisoners confined in the prison- ship. Mayor Bigelow, who was on horseback, issued his orders at Warbass's corner, calling upon the citizens to take up their arms for the defense of the laws of the city and of California He then made the same 2:)roclamation on the opposite corner, and subsequently further up on J Street, opposite the Southern Hotel. Numbers at each place rushed for their arms, and began to assemble at the prison- ship. It seems, however, that the squatters, when they reached the outlet of Sutter's Lake, just above J Street, stoj^ped and commenced moving lumber from a certain lot of land. Soon, however, Malony, their leader, addressed them briefly, stating that the lumber belonged to a friend, and that he would have it re- moved soon. This was satisfactory to them, and they marched in regular order, headed by their captain witli drawn sword, up J Street. They were followed by a crowd of unarmed citizens, who were hooting and laughing at them. When the crowd of citizens reached the corner of Second and I Streets, one of their number stated that the Mayor was aiDproaching, and that they had better THE FIGHT BEGINS. 343 await Lis orders. The crowd stopped and tlie squatters marched on, turned into Third Street and entered J. As the Mayor rode up to tlie citizens on the corner of Second and I Streets, he was asked what his orders were. He promptly replied, that he wished those men who were in arms against the authorities to be arrested. Three cheers were then given for the Mayor. Mayor Bigelow said he w^ould lead the party himself, and they immediately pro- ceeded after the squatters. The squatters, mean- while, had turned into J Street and were marching out. AVhen on the corner of Fourth Street, Ma- lony, their captain, turned around, and seeing the Mayor, Sheriff and several armed citizens after them, commanded his men to halt. They drew uj) in line across Fourth Street, facing on J Street, with their leader on the right. The Mayor and Sheiiff rode up and commanded the squatters to lay dow^n their arms and deliver themselves up as prisoners. As the citizens were aj^proaching, Malony commanded his men to fire, and said distinctly : "Shoot the Mayor; shoot the Mayor r The squatters leveled their guns and fired. Some of their guns, however, w^ere j)ointed several feet over the heads of the citizens ; while others were aimed lower and took more deadly effect. A general free fight ensued, in which there was firing on both sides. After the squatters had fired their guns, they drew their pistols; but the citizens rushed upon them, wdien they broke and dispersed. At the first fire. Mayor Bigelow, who, throughout 344 THE MAYOR SEVERELY WOUXDED. the ^vllolo afTair, sliowcd liiinsclf a brave and deter- miiiecl man, Avas woiuulcd very dangerously. One ball glaneed his cheek; another passed into his thigh ; one tore his thumb badly and shattered the bones of his liand, and the fourth jnodueed the most serious wound of all. The ball jxissed through liis body, in the region of the liver. After he ^Yas shot, he fell upon the neek of his horse. The horse started, and he was enabled to hold himself ujion his baek a short time, Avhen he fell to the ground, lie arose, however, walked a few steps and dro2'>ped on the ground. He then said that the citizens must protect their city themselves, for he was disal)led and could do no more. He was borne to the CoUuubia Hotel, where he received the best medical attendance. Mr. J. ]\I. Woodland, City Assessor, was also shot. He did not speak after he fell, and survived but a few moments. The ball i>assed through his body, on the left side. Ko citizen was more respected than ^Ir. Woodland, and few were more useful. Malony, captain of the squatters, was also shot dead. He received three wounds ; one in the arm, one in the baek and one through the head, which caused almost instantaneous death. A man by the name of Jesse IMorgan was also killed by a shot through the neek. He was from Holmes County, Ohio, and had but recently arrived with his wife and one child. He was proin-ietor of the Oak Grove House. One other person was killed on the side of the squatters, name unknown. In addition to Mayor Bigelow, the wounded were Dr. Charles THE KILLED AND WOUNDED. 345 Eobinson, a leading squatter, from Fitcliburg, Mas- saclmsetts. He was badly though not mortally wounded in the left side, the ball passing through liis body. He was 2)laced on a cot and taken to the prison-ship. Mr. J. H. Harper, of Independ- ence, Missouri, was also wounded. He exhibited great bravery, facing the squatters, and after firing off the barrels of his revolver, he threw it at them, whereupon they fired on him. He was wounded in both hands while they were placed across liis breast to protect it from the shots of the squatters. A ball which passed through one hand, glanced against his side and produced a slight wound. Mr. Harper, though severely hurt, was not mortally wounded. Mr. Hale, of the firm of Crowell, Hale & Co., on J Street, was wounded slightly in the leg by a musket-ball. A child of Mr. Eogers, of the firm of Burnett & Kogers, was also slightly wounded in the leg. During the fight there were four persons killed, and five wounded. Of those killed, three were squatters, and one of the citizens j)arty. Of the wounded, four were of the citizens party, and one was a squatter. Sheriff McKinney showed himself, through the whole affray, every inch a man. A squatter who was armed with a revolver, deliberately aimed at the Sheriff and discharged six balls at him, none of which, fortunately, took effect. Dr. White, Ke- corder Washington, Mr. Kutli and Dr. Pearis also acquitted themselves nobly. Assessor Woodland was buried on the following 346 THE sheriff's expedition. clay, and after the funeral, Sheriff McKinney and about twenty others, pi-oceeded out toward Sutter's Fort. AVlien the party arrived at the Fort, the Sheriff stated that he intended to go out to tlie Five-Mile House, and arrest any squatters that he could find, either there or further on, if it should be to Mormon Island. Some of the party, not knowing the Sheriff's object when they started, were entirely unarmed, and one man left and rode back to town. The others armed themselves. The Sheriff then drew up the party in rank of four, and in this order they j)i'oceeded in a quick gallo]) out to the Five- Mile House. The Sheriff, however, learned noth- ing there. The party jn-oceeded on toward the Pavilion, but, before arriving there, they were met by a man who informed the Slieriff that a party of squatters were located at "Allen's," two or three houses beyond the Pavilion. The Sheriff thereupon commanded a hah, and sent two men forward to the house. "While tliese men were absent, the Sheriff drew up his small force in line, and divided them into three squads of six men each. One squad was under the com- mand of General Winn and another under Mr. Eobinson. The Sheriff's orders were that one l)arty should approach the house from the left, Mr. Robinson's party w^ere to approach it from the risrht and General AYinn's in front. Thus the parties proceeded, Slieriff McKinncy taking charge of General Winn's division. When they reached the front of the house, the Sheriff called upon the men, in a jocose manner, to dismount and take a THE SHERIFF KILLED. 347 drink. He, witli several others, entered the liouse, while the balance of the squad were hitching their horses. Upon finding men in an adjoining room, armed and ready to receive him, he commanded them to lay down their arms. The squatters re- plied Avith a volley. There were eight or ten squatters in the liouse. A general melee then en- sued, and brisk firing was kept up by both parties for a few minutes. Shots passed in and out of the windows and the door, and constant firing w^as going on in the house. In the confusion, Sheriff McKinney had gotten out of the house, and as he was standing near the front door, a tall man fired at him from the inner room. He had a long gun loaded with buck-shot. The aim was too sure, and Sheriff McKinney w^as shot. He raised both hands and said three times, "rm dead, Fm dead, I'm dead." While he was repeating the foregoing, he "walked about ten steps and then fell dead. Just after the tall man shot the Sheriff, Dr. Bry- arly, v/ho was near, aimed his pistol at him and fired. The ball probably took effect, for the man dropped his gun and fell over. In the melee, two squatters named Kelly and Henshaw, wdio fired from behind the bar, were shot dead. Captain Radford was severely wounded in the forearm, the bones being broken. Four prisoners were captured and taken to the Pavilion. During the firing, Ca]3tain Hamersley w^as thrown from his horse and injured in the back. One of the prisoners was then taken to town under guard, and parties proceeded to the city to inform the citizens of the state of aftairs. 348 MUSTEK-EOLL OF COMPANY A, The first reinforcement that reached the Pavilion from the city, was a party of ten men led by ]Mr. Lundy. The second was a party of twelve men led by Mr. Tracy. General Winn formed them in line and made a brief address. The three remain- ing prisoners were j^h^ced in an omnibus, together with Captain Radford and the remains of Sheriff McKinney, and a guard of horsemen accompanied the omnibus to the city. The names of the prisoners in the omnibus were John Hughes, James R. Coff- man and William B. Cornogg. The body of the Sheriff was left at Sutter's Fort, and the prisoners were conveyed down J Street, along Front, to the prison-shiji. On the part of the authorities. Sheriff McKinney was killed and Caj^tain Radford wounded, not mor- tally. On the part of the squatters, two were killed and two w^ounded, and four were taken prisoners. Dr. Bryarly, Mr. Hamilton, Mr. Milne, Mr.Creal, Mr. Bruce and an unknown German gave evidence of great bravery during the affray. In a few hours after the outbreak of the 14th, Company A was formed and reported ready for duty. The following is the muster-roll of the Com23any : Captain, Jeremiah Sherwood ; First Lieutenant, Lewis Smith; Senior Second Lieu- tenant, J.Weatherspoon ; Junior Second Lieutenant, Lyman B. Munson ; Orderly Sergeant, George Lat- tie ; Second Sergeant, B. Phinney ; Third Sergeant, Geo. H. Buckley ; Fourth Sergeant, John Mason ; First Corporal, George King; Second Corporal, Edward Corigan ; lliird Corporal, John Mattin ; AND OF THE "SACRAMENTO GUARD." 349 Fourth Corporal, Lyman Bates ; Jlusician, James Lattie ; Privates, Thomas Kinney, George Graliam, Andrew Bell, Jr., John Smith, E. Seymour, John R. Dickenson, James Burns, John Tinson, M. Henderson, John H. Underhill, Henry M. Jewett, Henry F. Beadle, Charles L. H. Long, Henry Coverdale, Charles Gordon, James Northrop, T. G. Hewlett, James Evans, J. AY. Honrer, T. Wilson, John Wilson, E. McGinnis, William Shifmire, C.W. Coats, F. N. MeCron, James Funston, James Hen- man, Albert Morgan, Jesse Toby, Edward Bestwick, Lewis A. Barnes, S. B. El well, Martin Metzger, Henry Bosenbaum, Kobert Clark, J. S. Applegate, John Duncan, M. G. Whitlock, Eichard Clark, Isaac M. Yearley. On the evening of the same day, another company was organized under the name of " The Sacramento Guard," and the following officers were elected: Captain, David McDowell; First Lieutenant, Henry Hale ; Second Lieutenants, W. FI. Crowell, James Queen ; Sergeants, First, H. G. Langley ; Second, B. B. Gore ; Third, C. C. Flagg ; Fourth, W. H. Talmage ; Corporals, First, L. J. Wilder ; Second, G. L. Hewitt ; Third, T. H. Borden ; Fourth, W, E. Moody; Clerk, W. B. McCracken; Privates, sixty-five. After Mayor Bigelow had fiillen, the Common Council assembled and ^^laced Recorder Washington at the head of the police of the city. The Council then granted him authority to raise any number of men not to exceed five hundred. It was also voted that Mr. Demas Strong, President of Council, should 20 350 BILL FOR MEDICAL ATTENDANCE, ETC. assume tlie duties of Mayor, and that the rest of the Council should arm and place themselves under Recorder AVashington. Coroner P. F. Ewer as- sumed the duties of Sheriff. On examination of the wounds of Mayor Bi2;elow, it was deemed advisable to amputate his thumb, and the oi^eration was performed by Dr. Birdsall. Sub- sequently mortification set in, and the Mayor was removed to San Francisco, wdiere his arm was am2:)utated. For nursing, etc., after the operation had been performed, the following modest bill was presented to the Common Council of Sacramento City — female labor in California being at a pre- mium, as will be seen by the last item of the bill : San Francisco, Nov. 29th, 1850. Hon. H. Bigelow, Mayor of Sacramento City, To J. W. Stillman, Dr. For Cash advanced for sundries during his illness at my house, . $480.00 " Cash paid for wasJiing clothes soiled by his wounds, 165.00 " Five weeks' use of best and largest room in house, @ $100 per week, 500.00 " One carpet, ruined by chloride of lime, used in sick-room, ....... 77.00 " Cash paid for pair of boots, .... 16.00 " Sundries, bandages, extra candles, extra refresh- ments, wines, etc., for self and attendants at night, etc., five weeks, 500.00 " Five weeks' attendance of Mrs. Stillman, night and day, 500.00 Total, . . $2,238.00 Sheriff McKinney was buried on the IGth, and FUNERAL OF THE SHERIFF. 351 the obsequies were very impressive. His funeral, although it took place from Sutter's Fort, was very largely attended, not only by friends on horseback and in carriages, but by large numbers on foot. The Common Council had the general charge of the obsequies, but the body was buried with Masonic honors, and was under the immediate charge of the brethren of the Order. They preceded the hearse, which was followed by a long file of carriages. The militia, under Captain Sherwood, came next, and then about a hundred citizens on horseback. The ceremonies at the grave were conducted in an elo- quent and feeling manner by Judge Willis, and after the cofiin was deposited in its final resting-place, many were the sprigs of evergreen that were thrown into the grave — silent, eloquent tokens of the fellow- ship of numerous brethren. His afflicted wife and bereaved relatives stood at the edge of the grave ; their grief and the solemn ceremonial hushed the crowd to breathless silence and brought tears to many eyes. Silently the body was deposited ; the prayer was offered ; the responses rose from hearts touched with sympathy, and the crowd departed, leaving behind them the remains of one whose name will ever live in the memory of every true lover of the common weal of California. Late in the summer, intelligence reached Sacra- mento City, that great suffering existed among the overland immigrants. Public meetings were held, a relief committee organized, money subscribed, provisions purchased, and trains dispatched for the relief of tlie sufferers. The first meeting, started 352 THE AUTHOR BIDS ADIEU TO OALIFORNI . almost imi:>romptu by Colonel Jolin Bigler, without previous notice or regular organization, was largely attended, and the following amounts subscribed for their relief: Captain Wm. Waldo, .... $1,000 B.Jennings, 1,000 Thos. J. Henley, 100 M. Walthall, 100 K. J. Watson & Co., .... 250 S. P. Dewey, 100 W.W.Warner, 50 Cash paid on the spot, .... 200 William Kightmire, one good mule. Several smaller sums were also subscribed, amount- ing in the aggregate to several hundred dollars. Late in the month of August, with the following "Character" — from the editorial columns of the Transcript — in my ^^ocket, I bade farewell to Sac- ramento City and turned my face homeward : Departure op Mr. Upham. — The next steamer for tlie States will boar from us cue who was with us iu the commence- ment of our enterprise, and whose judgment and business talent have been to us of incalculable benefit. We allude to JNIr. Upham. Our acquaintance with him was accidental. We became partners almost at first sight, but never did we find occasion to regret for a moment the unbounded confidence we always reposed iu him. He leaves us while we are mourning the death, iu our midst, of one of the noblest of men — thus adding to our sorrow and depriving us of another member of our fomily. Verily, the friendship which springs up between business men iu this country is unlike the general acquaint- anceship of other lands, which is laid aside without any appar- ent regret, and resumed only when politic or convenient. i AND LEAVES FOR HOME. 353 Here, our partners in business form our social circles, and when one of a business firm retires, it is like dismembering a family. Mr. Upham came to California prepared to commence at the bottom of the ladder, and climb slowly but surely up. Like most new-comers, he went to the mines and dug. His health failed him, and he returned to San Francisco late in the fall of last year. After a few days of unsuccessful effort to get into business, he finally secured the situation of carrier of the Pacific News. His fine capacity soon attracted the atten- tion of his employers, who selected him to keep the books and transact the business of the establishment. It was there we found him. After living with us four months, he leaves us in our new home, and possibly we shall not see him again for years, if ever. But wherever he is, Ave shall not forget the qualities that have so conduced to our enjoyment and forwarded our business. We sincerely wish him a speedy return to his family and success in the business in which he may hereafter engage. CHAPTER XXI. Down the Sacramento on the steamer Senator — San Francisco in the fall of 1850 — Farewell, San Francisco — Homeward bound — The steamer Columbus — Captain Peck — Incidents on board — Arrival at Acapulco — Scenes on shore — Conflict of anthority — Overland emigrants via City of Mexico — Arrival at Panama — Go ashore pig-a-back — Immersion without the benefit of clergy — Panama in 1850 — Two of the Columbus's passengers die of cholera. I ENGAGED passage on board the steamer Senator. She made a fine run down the Sacramento, crossed Suisun Bay, and after exchanging passengers at Be- nicia, threaded her way through the Straits of Car- quincz and entered San Pablo Bay. I retired early, and at daylight on the following morning, found myself alongside the steamboat wharf at Clark's Point. After removing my baggage to the City Hotel, I took a stroll about the city ; but old things had passed away, and all things, comparatively S2:>eaking, had become new. During an absence of four months from San Francisco, a wonderful change had taken place. The most populous part of the city had, within that time, twice fallen a prey to that devouring ele- ment — fire. New and tasteful brick structures had superseded the frail «cZoi?>e and wooden tenements; the streets and sidewalks had been planked ; piers and wharves, extending across the mud-flats fixr into the bay, had been constructed ; in fact, the city had (354) FAREWELL, «AN FEANCISCO. 357 put Oil an entirely new dress. Happy Valley, wliicli, four months previously, contained scarcely half a dozen frame huildings, now boasted as many hun- dreds. Verily, this El Dorado is a wonderl'ul coun- try; and San Francisco, despite clouds of dust and chilly afternoons, is destined to become the second city on this continent. Farewell, Han Francisco I "Thy beautiful harbor, proud golden-gcnimcd Queen, Is rivalled by none the world has e'er seeu !" We will now stcji on l)oard the steamship Columbus, commanded by that prince of caj)tains, J. B. Peck. At six o'clock on an August after- noon, amid the adieus of friends who had assembled to see me off, the scramble among trunks, bugs and other luggage, the Columbus cast off her bow and stern lines — the last physical tie that bound me to California — swung into the stream and was soon puffing out of the harbor under a full head of steam. As the shipping in the harbor receded from my view, the little hamlet of Soucileto, nestling quietly among the hills on the opposite side of the bay, hove in sight, but was soon lost in the dim distance. As the Columbus approached tlie Golden Gate, she bounded gayly over the water, impatient to reach the bi'oad bosom of the Pacific. I shall never for- get the memories that crowded my brain as 1 i)assed through the Golden Gate homeward-bound. When I entered the harbor of San Francisco, on board the brig Osceola, thirteen months previously, feelings of a far different nature occu})ied my mind. The dif- ference between an outward and a homeward-bound 358 CROWDED OUT OF MY STATE-EOOM. voyage can be appreciated only by those who have experienced both. Early in the evening, I threaded my way between market-baskets, trunks and camjD-stools to my state- room, cogitating, as I passed along, upon the glories of a night's rest between clean sheets, but " This world is all a fleeting show," and all things sublunary are very uncertain, as the case in question will illustrate. On reaching state-room F, I was taken all aback by fniding it stowed with strange baggage. I could, in fact, find anything but my own goods and chattels. The cabin-maid soon made her appearance, and entered into an explanation of matters. Women generally carry their point, and it so happened in this case, although the justice of the matter seemed to me rather questionable. It ai^peared, upon investiga- tion, that tw^o individuals of the male persuasion, occupying state-room E had surrendered their quarters to a gentleman and his wife, and during the absence of myself and room-mate, had taken possession of state-room F. I endeavored to con- vince them of the injustice of their j^roceedings, but it was of no use, and as a lady was involved in the case, I accepted a berth in state-room B and droj)ped the subject. My room-mates were a Mr. Clarkson, of San Jose, and Mr. Tittle, ex-Postmaster of Sac- ramento City ; both bound to the States for their better-halves and little ones. There were forty-two cabin and one hundred and seventy-six steerage j^assengers on board the Colum- BICKERINGS END DELIGHTFULLY. 3G1 bus, aiul when all were congregated on deck, there was not much spare room. At the commencement of the voyage, petty jealousies and bickerings existed between the cabin and steerage passengers in relation to their rights to the hurricane or promenade deck. On the fourth day at sea a line was stretched across the deck abaft the mizzen- mast by the cabin jDassengers, and the steerage pas- sengers were requested to keep forward of the line. This movement on the part of the cabin passengers was taken in high dudgeon by their brethren of tlie steerage, and a war of words ensued, interlarded with einthets more forcible than polite. On the ensuing evening a meeting was convened in the cabin, and after a free discussion of grievances on both sides, it wound up to the entire satisfaction of all concerned, with champagne and cigars for the crowd. A^^e were favored with fine weather and a smooth sea until we reached the Gulf of California, where .we encountered head-winds and cross-seas for sev- enty hours, during which time a majority of the pas- sengers paid the requisite tribute to old Neptune by casting up their accounts. Mr. Tittle was decidedly opposed to a nautical life. He was of the opinion that life on the plains was far preferable to a " Life on the ocean wave." We ran down the coast of Mexico with the land close aboard. The coast was bluff and abru]3t, j^re- senting in many places a highly picturesque appear- 362 AIRY COSTUMES. anee ; and, in the distaiiee, tlio Cortlilleras raised their snow-capped lie;uls majestically to the skies. On the aftenuion ot" Angust 2C)th, the Columbus dropped her anchor in tlie harbor of Acapulco, near the shore, and immediately in front of the Plaza. The port officer had scarcely left us before Ave "were surrounded by a llect of small l)oats of almost every conceivable style of architecture, from the rude Indian canoe or hu)i(jo to the clinker-built Avhale-boat. Several of the passengers availed them- selves of the opportunity offered by the numerous water-craft alongside, and went on shore to spend the night. A majority, however, myself among the number, having the fear of cholera before their eyes, concluded to remain on board during the night, and visit the shore next morning. After supper I seated myself on the hurricane deck and chewed the cud of reflection over the end of a cheroot until the cathedral bell tolled the hour of midnight. 1 then went below and Avas soon locked hard and fast in the embrace of Morpheus. At sunrise next morning, I went ashore, accom- panied by a couple of Iriends, for the purpose of seeing the sights in Acapulco. The first object that met my eye on reaching the shore, was a group of Mexican children gamboling along the gravelly beach, in a state of perfect nudity, and as I passed through the city toward the Fort, I saw several " children of a larger growth " attired in the same airy costume. In the vicinity of the Fort, I saw several soldiers with no otlier uniibrm than a cotton shirt, glazed l\\\> with a red bobbin, and a rusty ACAPULCO, STKEETS AND HOUSES, 363 musket. I once saw at Gibraltar a company of Highlanders with bare legs and broadswords, which I considered a breezy uniform, but the costume of the Acapulco soldiers caps the climax. The city of Acapulco is situated on the north- east side of the bay, and is surrounded on three sides by a range of mountains towering to the skies, and clothed to their summits with cactus and chaparral. Along the beach and throughout the suburbs of the city, the symmetrical cocoanut tree, with its long sword-shaped leaves and clusters of fruit, rears its head in all its majesty, affording shade and shelter as well as food for the natives. The city is mostly built on two streets, each about three-fourths of a mile in length, and running parallel with the bay shore. The buildings, with tlie excei^tion of the cathedral, are only one-story high and are mostly constructed of adobes, with tile or thatched roofs. The street leading from the Plaza to the Fort, is paved with blocks of granite and sandstone. The other streets are graveled, and a stream of pure water is continually running along the gutters, giving them a clean and cool ap2)earance. TJie houses in most cases are Ivhitewashed inside and out ; and the city, taken all in all, presents a cleanly appearance. It contains about 3,500 inhabitants, mostly Mexicans. The Bay of Acapulco is easy of access, com2)letely landlocked, and is considered one of the safest harbors on the Pacific coast. After having viewed the Fort, an ancient adobe and sandstone structure, we visited the house of an old KScotchman, who had, some thirty years pre- 3G4 EMBARRASSING SITUATION. viously, married a native wife and became Mexi- canized. Immediately on landing, we had ordered a breakfast of chickens, eggs, milk and chocolate. The sanitary committee had tabooed milk during the prevalence of the cholera in the city ; but chickens and eggs in abundance were set before us, to all of which we did ample justice. Chickens and fresh eggs were most assuredly a great luxury to those who had been deprived of them for nearly fifteen months. During the early part of the day. Captain Peck watered and coaled the Columbus, and at four o'clock, P. M., the sound of her signal-gun came booming over the bay, the summons for the pas- sengers to repair on board. A general stampede was made for the boats on the beach, and several were filled and about to shove off, when a file of soldiers emerged from the guard-house close by and ordered the boatmen not to enter their boats. A pretty state of afiairs now presented itself The Columbus had fired her signal-gun and would most likely get under way within half an hour, whether the passengers were on board or not, and a taboo had been placed on all the boats. Some cursed the boatmen ; others remonstrated with the soldiers, and endeavored to ascertain the cause of the deten- tion ; but they shook their heads and said they " 7W sabe Americano." However, we were not kept long in suspense. The soldiers, headed by a nervous little citizen with a small black stick in his right hand, which he was constantly twirling about in a fidgety manner, approached two of the passengers. THE TWO JONAHS. 3G5 who had, (luring the passage, j^roven themselves to belong to the sporting fraternity, and requested them to accompany him to the office of the Alcalde; but as they were decidedly opposed to being escorted through the city by an armed guard, they peremp- torily declined the honor and retreated toward the boats. The soldiers cocked their muskets and com- manded them to stand. One of the gamblers drew his revolver and threatened to shoot the first hombre that approached to arrest either himself or partner. The pistol cooled the ardor of the soldiers to such a degree, that the gamblers were allowed to seize a boat and make their escape to the steamer. It appeared, from subsequent investigation, that the cause of the attemj^t to arrest grew out of a melee which had occurred at a gambling-table in the American Hotel on the previous night. The gamblers said that the proprietors of the monte bank used waxed cards, and attempted to come the " draw game" on them ; and they, as a set-off, came the "grab game" on the funds of the bank, which caused an order to be issued for their arrest and trial before the Alcalde. The escape of the gam- blers on board the Columbus was rej^orted to the American consul, avIio immediately went on board and stated the circumstances of the case to Captain Peck, who, in his usual bland manner, informed the two " sporting gentlemen" that they could have the choice of either being confined in irons on board the steamer, or of going ashore in the custody of the consul. After a few moments' consultation, they concludeil to go ashore and stand their trial before 36G A PAKTY OF GEOEGIANS. the Alcalde, Judge Pratt, of Oregon, a passenger on board the steamer Caroline, having volunteered to act as their counsel in the ease. As soon as the 2:)risoncrs were put upon their trial, my two friends and myself engaged a hungo and went on board the steamer. We had scarcely reached the deck before the anchor was hoisted and the Columbus was steaming out of the harbor, leaving the gamblers and three or four of the passengers, who had been detained as witnesses, to the tender mercies of the Mexican authorities. Poor fellows ; they were caught in bad com2:>any, and will learn a lesson that will no doubt be of future service to them. AVliile in Acapulco, I made the acquaintance of a party of Georgians, bound for California, who came by the way of Vera Cruz and the City of Mexico. Two of the party w^ere brought into the city by the natives, on litters, having been taken sick on the road. One had been attacked with cholera, and was in a critical state ; the other was recovering from an attack of dysentery. AVhen this party left Vera Cruz, on the last of July, the cholera was rairins: there to an alarmins; extent. The City of Mexico was quite healthy when they jnissed through it. They saw several guerrilla bands on the route, but they were peaceably disj^osed. They performed the journey between the City of Mexico and Acapulco, a distance of 100 leagues, in eleven days. They report the streams very nuich swollen and the road very rough. The steamer Tennessee left Acapulco on the even- ing the Columbus arrived, bound for San Francisco, MORE LUCKY THAN MY FRIENDS. 367 with oiily twenty passengers on board. The steamer Caroline, from San Francisco, arrived at Acapulco some ten hours ahead of the Columbus. We had a smooth sea and a delightful run between Acapulco and Panama, where we arrived on the evening of September 4th, eight days from the former place. The weather, with the exception of an occasional shower, was pleasant, and we had a very agreeable passage. The health of the passengers was re- markably good during the entire passage. Tlie Caroline arrived in Panama fifteen minutes ahead of the Columbus. At six o'clock, A. M., on September 5th, I tum- bled myself and baggage into a boat, bade the Columbus adieu, and in about half an hour there- after found myself on the shoulders of a native, who w^as 23ropelling through the surf as fast as his powers of locomotion would admit of. He landed me on the beach, in front of the city-gate, high and dry, safe and sound ; damages, $4, including boat-hire. My friend, Bowditch, formerly attached to the steamer Governor Dana, was less fortunate than myself. The hombre, whom he undertook to ride ashore pig-a-back, unhorsed him — perhaps, un- manned would be the better word — in three feet of water on a coral reef, and left him floundering in the surf. He succeeded, however, in reaching the shore, amid the shouts of the assembled darkies. Ex-Postmaster Tittle also received an immersion without the benefit of clergy, at the hands of a boatman. The hombre who carried me through the surf, seemed extremely anxious to treat me to a salt- oG8 THKEE DAYS IN PANAMA. water bath, but I caiiglit him by the ears, deter- mined to bring: his head under water shoukl he submerge me. I woukl advise all persons going ashore at Panama, to land at the Market-steps, tlicreby avoiding a ride tlirough the surf on the back of a negro, and also the probability of wet inexpressibles. At the sohcitation of a friend, I accomj^anied him to the American Hotel, kept by an American sea- captain, but neither the house nor its proprietor realized my expectations, and, after having j^ar- taken of a miserably-served breakfast, I removed my baggage to the Louisiana Kestaurant, near the gate on the Cruces road, wdiere I remained during the three days I sojourned in Panama. I cannot recommend tliis house too highly to persons travel- ing either to or from California. During my stay in Panama, I visited the barracks and prison ; viewed the cruml)ling wall, in all its meauderings, that sur- rounds the city ; inspected the large dismantled guns on the battery fronting the bay; and last, though not least, visited several of the ancient and dilapidated churches, that at one time were the pride of the city. The Padres of Panama possess a wonderful jDen- chant for cock-fighting, at any and all times, Sun- days not excepted, and Avliat they don't know about game-cocks, gaffs and spurs, it would be useless to learn. During my stay in Panama, two of the Colum- bus's passengers — Benj. F. Browne, of New York, and Eandolph Scott, of Texas — died of cholera. DEATH OF TWO PASSENGKRS. 369 The best medical attendance was jDrocured, and tliey received every attention at the hands of their fellow-passengers, but human aid was of no avail. They died in a foreign land, far away from home and kindred. 21 CHAPTER XXII. Leave Panama — To Cruces on mule back — Down tlie Chagres River in a bungo — Deaths by cholera en route — Mr, and Mrs. Gillingham — Go on board the steamship Falcon — Deaths by cholera — Burial at sea — Arrival at Havana — An afternoon and night on shore — Take passage on the steamship Ohio for New York — Arrival at New York — Departure for Philadelphia — Home again, Hayixg learned from the agent in Panama, tliat the steamship Falcon would leave Chagres on the loth of Se2:>tember, thirteen of the Columbus's pas- sengers, including myself, formed a party to cross the Isthmus, and, on the morning of the Gth, held a meeting at the Louisiana Restaurant, appointed a committee to engage mules and caterers to provide provisions for the journey, and early on the morning of the 8th, we mounted our animals in front of the restaurant, and started for Cruces, distant 22 miles. The first six or eight miles of our journey was over what the natives termed a mucha bueno road, but the balance of the road was mucha malo in the stronirest sense of the term. I hired two mules at $16 each. On one of the animals I j^acked my trunk and the other I rode. Belonging to our party were Mr. and Mrs. R. P. Gillingham, of Philadelphia. Mrs. Gillingham (370) 1 DIFFICULTIES OF MULE-EIDING. 371 having neglected to provide herself with a Bloomer costume, had either to ride a mule attired in her usual dress and take the chances of being dumped into the first slough she attempted to cross, or submit to the novel mode of riding on the back of a nude native, lashed in a chair. She adopted the latter mode of conveyance, and arrived safely at Cruces. Mr. Gillingham had arrived in San Fran- cisco early in August, and at the expiration of two weeks his courage had so completely oozed out that he engaged passage for himself and wife on the first homeward-bound steamer. Our pack-mules were addicted to the annoying habit of turnino; their loads whenever it suited their inclination, which caused us to scold the muleteers in bad Spanish, and the muleteers to belabor and curse the mules in a manner that proved them to be no novices at the business. Any one who has heard an Isthmus muleteer swear must be thoroughly convinced that profanity is his chief stock in trade. One of our party had the misfortune to bestride a recreant mule, probably a lineal descendant of the donkey chastised by Balaam, which bolted into the woods, threw his rider, and bruised him quite severely. I had the good fortune to select a gentler, though a very small animal, somewhat larger than a Sacramento grandfather rat, and he carried me safely to Cruces. As we commenced ascendins: the mountains the road 2:rew worse, and we made very slow progress. Nio-ht overtook us at a ranch 8 miles from Cruces, where we tied up until morning. I drank 372 THREE SADDLE-MULES VAMOSE. two cups of a yillainous compound called coffee, and turned into a grass hammock, which " Swung loose at the sport of the wiud ;" but, owing to the combined attacks of an army of mosquitoes and fleas, I slept very little during the night. In the early part of the evening, one of the Columbus's passengers w^as attacked with cholera, but, owing to good nursing during the night, he was able to be transported on a litter to Cruces next day. At daylight we awoke the muleteers and sent them after the animals. They returned about eight o'clock with all the mules except three, which they said had vamosed to Panama during the night. The delinquents j)i"Oved to be saddle animals; consequently three of the party had either to engage fresh mules, which was no easy matter, or walk to Cruces. They concluded to adopt the latter course ; but after walking two miles they engaged mules at a ranch and overtook us as we were entering Cruces at eleven o'clock, A. M. At a ranch, 6 miles from Cruces, we saw the corj)se of Thomas Kobinson, of Illinois. Mr. Ilobin- son died of cholera two hours previous to our arrival. While w^e were at the ranch, a friend returned with medicine for the sick man, but it came too late. We buried him under a large tree near the roadside. We spent the afternoon making arrangements for our passage to Chagres on the following day. My- self and four others chartered a large bungo for f 50, FEOM CRUCES TO CH AGUES. 373 to convey ourselves and baggage to Cliagres. The owner of the hungo swore by all the saints in the Spanish calendar, that he woidd be ready to start down the river at daylight next morning ; and with this assurance we retired for tiie' night. Friend Tittle and myself spread our blankets on the ground-floor of a bamboo hut, and turned in fur a night's rest ; but owing to a carnival held by the fleas over our bodies, Ave slept very little. Next morning our party was at the hungo at the appointed hour, but the boatman had not arrived. We soon found him, however, and at six o'clock, A. M., we shoved into the stream, and the current in a few moments hurried us out of sight of Cruces. We passed Gorgona early in the morning, and at one o'clock, P. M., dined at the ranch of the '' Two Brothers," situated about halfway between Cruces and Cliagres. Soon after leaving this place, tlie rain descended in torrents. It appeared as though the flood-gates of heaven were open. Had not two of our party kept constantly bailing the hungo during the shower, it certainly would have been swamped. When the rain ceased, the sun shone forth in all its splendor, and during the remainder of the day we were as comfortable as the circum- stances of our case would admit of. A wet jacket at any time is unpleasant, but as this was the first and only shower experienced during our journey across the Isthmus, we bore up under it man- fully, and considered that we had been highly favored by the elements. We reached Cliagres at 0/4 ANOTHER DISArPOINTMENT. six o'clock, r. I\[., Imving made the run down the river in twelve hours, including stoppages. On the passage down the river, I saw several alligators and iguanas without number. On the boughs of the trees and on the banks of the river, I saw parrots, paroquets, and other birds of beau- tiful plumage. In the forest, on both sides of the river, monkeys were constantly chattering. AVliile shifting our baggage into a surf-boat, pre- paratory to going on board the steamship Falcon, a canoe arrived with the remains of Colonel Prig- more, of Saline County, Missouri, who died of cholera just before reaching Chagres. Colonel Prigmore was the gentleman, before alluded to, attacked with cholera at the ranch 8 miles from Cruces, on the night of the 8th. At half-past seven o'clock on the evening of Sep- tember 10th, I stepped into a surf-boat and was soon on board the steamer Falcon, commanded by Captain Hartstein, U. S. Navy, lying in Chagres Koads, distant from the town about a mile. There was a heavy swell setting into the mouth of the Chagres Kiver and dashing against the battlements of the old fort, but the surf-boat rode safely over the rollers. I went at once to the ollice of the clerk for the number of my state-room and berth, having purchased a through-ticket in San Francisco with the express understanding that I should have a saloon or first-cabin state-room on board the Falcon. I was informed by the clerk that all the first-class state-rooms had been taken ; and, moreover, that the asrent in San Francisco was not authorized to DEATHS BY CHOLERA. o75 sell through-tickets. After considerable parleying, a berth was assigned me in the " house on deck," where I found some half a dozen others of the through- ticket victims, similarly situated. Homo consoled themselves with the idea that they would obtain satisfaction from the agent on their return to California; others, that they would probably never travel the route again, and, like true philosophers, they made the best of a bad bargain. On the night of the 11th, Daniel Norcross, Special Mail Agent, arrived with the mail, and at half-past one o'clock on the following morning, the Falcon weighed anchor and started for Havana, where she arrived at eight o'clock, A. M., on the 17th. During the 23assage between Chagres and Havana, the following i)crsons died of cholera : Captain Barnabas Kirby, Mass., died Sept. lltli, Robt. T. Lawrence, Brooklyn, N. Y., " " 12th, Elias Orton, Iowa, . . . " " 12th, AVilliam Beal, Michigan, . . " " V2i\\, Ismael Worthington, Ohio, . . " " loth, McGowau, N. Y., . . " " 13th, James H. Frye, Missouri, . . " " loth, Captain Elisha Clark, Maine, . " " 13th, Captain Augustus Norton, " . " *■ 14th, Sol. Joseph, Western Islands, . " " 14th, John Pinchatich, Trieste, Austria, " " 15th, Captain Richard Macy, Maiue, . " " 16th, J. Spaulpaugh, N. Y., . . . " " 16th, William Maynard, Conn., . . " " 16th, Crawford Riddel, Philadelphia, Pa., " " 16th, James Campbell, Ireland, . . " " 16th, Downing, Missouri, . . " " 16th, Gates, Indiana, . . . " " 17th. O/b A BURIAL AT SEA. Captain Kirby died while tlie Falcon was lying off Cliagres, and liis body was sent ashore and bnried at that place. The others, who died during the passage, were buried at sea. A burial at sea is a solemn scene. "All hands to bury the dead !" is piped by the boatswain, amid the tolling of the shi^^'s bell, and with the flag at half-mast, the corpse, wrapped in a sheet or blanket and incased in a canvas sack with a heavy weight at its foot, is placed on a plank in the gangway. The Episcopal burial service is read by the Chaplain or Captain, and at its conclusion, a tilt of the plank, a thud, a splash in the water and all that is mortal of the deceased is ingulfed beneath the waves of the ocean, there to remain until the last great day, when tliis globe shall dissolve, and the grave and the sea shall give up their dead. Out of the twenty cases of cholera on board the Falcon only three were saved ; and two of these were treated by Dr. J. Hobart Birge, of Sacra- mento City, a passenger on the Falcon, to whom many thanks are due for his kindness and attention to his sick and dying fellow-passengers on the Isthmus as well as on board the Falcon and the Ohio. The surgeon of the Falcon treated eighteen cases of cholera, and saved only one f The acconuuodatious for the sick on board the Falcon wore most miserable, and the treatment of the passengers, in cabin and steerage, did not meet their expectations. They expected to fare as well on the Atlantic as on the Pacific, but they were disappointed so far as the Falcon was concerned. A RIDE THROUGH HAVANA. 377 During tliose five memorable clays passed on board the Falcon, my friend Tittle became sadly demoralized. Whenever a corpse was consigned to the deep, he imagined that his turn would come next, and it was with great difficulty that I could divert his mind from the gloomy surroundings. The pall of death seemed to enshroud all on board. He gave me the address of his wife, and requested me to take charge of his gold-dust aud other effects in case of his death. By way of consolation I re- minded him of the old adage about those born to be hanged, etc., and he finally came to the conclusion that he was not a subject for the cholera. On our arrival in the harbor of Havana, we ivere informed that we would be quarantined and not permitted to visit the city. "VVe had anticipated this. Imagine our surprise then, on being informed, a few hours later, that the taboo had been removed, and we could go ashore at twelve o'clock, M. This news was hailed with joy by all on board, and at one o'clock, P. M., nearly every passenger was on shore enjoying himself to his heart's content. Dan Norcross and myself chartered a volante for two hours, and, seating ourselves in the vehicle, ordered the postillion to trot us through the principal thoroughfares of the city. Jehu, an African as black as the ace of spades, who, by-the-by, was incased to his hips in boots as black and shiny as his countenance, mounted the horse attached to the volante, and cracking his whip, we started off at a brisk pace, up one street and down another ; now threading a narrow lane, and now rattling over the 378 GO ON BOAED THE OHIO. pavement of a wide and beautiful street, lined on either side by shade and fruit trees, that j^erfumed the air with their fragrance. We hurried through the city at John Gilpin speed, and from the expression of the countenances of the little urchins, who threw up their tiny hands and cheered us as we passed, I believe they wished us much joy, and also that they might be present when we rode again. Boots performed his duty faithfully ; and at the expiration of two hours, set us down in Palace Square, the place from whence we had started, and received his fee — $1 — the cheapest ride between New York and California, at least I thought so at the time. Havana is a beautiful city, and its harbor and surrounding scenery, with the exce23tion of E,io de Janeiro and Naples, the most romantic in the world. In the evening I sauntered about Palace Square, which was crowded with the beauty and fashion of the gay metropolis, listening to the sweet and soul- inspiring music of the military band. The Havana senoi'itas are perfect liouris, and, had I been a bachelor, the steamship Ohio would j^i'obably have had one passenger less to New York. I remained on shore during the night, and at six o'clock next mornimr went on board the Falcon and transferred my baggage to the Ohio, Captain J. Finley Schenck, U. S. Navy. The Ohio left Havana at half-past nine o'clock on the morning of the 18th of Sep- tember, and arrived in New York at eleven o'clock, P. M., on the 22d, performing the passage in four days and fourteen hours. A MOST AGREEABLE CHANGE. 379 On the (lay we left Havana, the following pas- sengers died of cholera and were buried at sea : Captain Ira Gould, Huntington, L. I. George Howell, Sag Harbor, " William Fields, Providence, R. I. A. Spencer, East Greenwich, " The passengers on board the Ohio had no cause of complaint. Captain Schenck and his officers did every tiling in their power to render all on board as comfortable as possible. The table was bountifully suj^plied, and the servants were attentive and obliging — a marked contrast to the treatment on board the Falcon. The following resolutions were adopted, and a copy presented to Captain Schenck : On board Steamship Ohio, At Sea, Sept. 2lHt, 1850. At a meeting of the passengers held on board this ship, to express their feelings of regard for Captain Schenck and the officers under his command. Judge WoodroofF, of New Orleans, was called to the chair, and \l. P. Gillingham, of Philadelphia, appointed Secretaiy. The Ibllowing gentlemen were appointed a committee to draft suitable resolutions : Samuel C. Uphani, Philadelphia ; James II. Brown, Baltimore ; W. II. Bowditch, Boston ; Captain Thomas F. Knowles, Baltimore, and D. S. Hunt, of New York, who presented the following resolutions, which were unanimously adopted : liciioU'ed, That we tender to Captain J. Finley Schenck our sincere and heartfelt thaidcs for the courteous manner in which he has borne himself toward all on board, and more especially for his kindly treatment of our sick and dying fellow-passengers since our departure from Havana. His skill as a commander, and other commendable qualities, will ever entitle him to our warmest regards ; and we trust that through the voyage of life 380 HOME AGAIN 1 he may ever bo flavored ■with lair winds, and at last let go his anchor in the haven of eternal rest. Besoli'cd, That, through Captain Schenck, \\q extend our warmest thanks to the other ofHoers of the OJiio, for their gentlemanly and officer-like deportment during the present passage between Havana and New York. Mesolvcd, That the proceedings of this meeting be publbhed in the New York Herald, riiiladelphia Ledger, Baltimore Sun, and Boston Pod, and that a manuscript copy of the same be presented to Captain Schenck by the Secretarv. C. AYOODROOFF, President R. r. GiLLiNGHAM, Seci'etarij. I arrived in New York tliirtj-eiglit days after my departure from San Francisco, including stop- pages. Six days' detention oi route deducted, leave tliirty-two days traveling time between the two places. On the afternoon o( the 23d, I left for Philadelphia to join my better-half and little ones, and the re-union, after a separation of nearly two years, can be better imagined than described. When I left California, it was my intention to return the following year with my family, but "man proixises and God disposes.'' Life's current has drifted me into other channels; the heyday of life has passed, and now, at the age of threescore I despair of again visiting the land where " The vine and the fig-tree are laden with fruit, And the breezes blow soft as the tones of the lute, The orange-tree blossoms and fruits in the vale, The date and pomegi-anate, 'mid sand and the shale, The filbert and almond, and manna of yore, All abouud in the land that I love and adore." VALEDICTION. 08 1 The kaleidoscope of life is constantly changing. The life of man is but a span — here to-day and gone to-morrow. The Argonauts of 'Forty-nine are fast falling by the roadside and being gathered to their fathers. Keader, as you pass down the pathway of life, culling flowers by the wayside, should you chance to meet one of those wayworn Argonauts, one of those old grizzlies of the Sierras, who has never " buildcd a city nor founded an empire," but who did assist in adding to the con- stellation of States of our glorious Union one of its brightest and sunniest stars, the Eureka State, Queen of the Pacific, treat him kindly, and when he shall have passed from earth, place uj)on his grave a wreath of immortelles, and God will bless you. APPENDIX. PIONEER JOURNALISM IN CALIFORNIA. The Pacific Neivs — Its editors and proprietors — "Boston," ah'as " Big Ames " — First newspaper published in California — The AUa Cali- fornia — Sacramento Transcript and Placer Times — The Golden Era — Bret Harte, Mark Twain and Prentice Mulford — San Fran- cisco Picayune, Courier and Herald — Marysville Herald — Stock- ton Times — Sonora Herald. The following sketch, published originally in Rowell's Newspaper Reporter and subsequently elaborated and pub- lished in N. W. Ayer & Son's Advertiser's Guide, has been corrected and still further elaborated, and, in its present form, is believed to be a correct and impartial history of Pioneer Journalism in California: On my return to San Francisco from the Calaveras mines, in the month of October, 1849, I applied to the proprietors of the Pacifio News for permission to canvass for a carrier's route on their journal. After a long inter- view, during which the project was thoroughly discussed, pro and con, I obtained the sole and exclusive right to canvass for subscribers and serve the Pacifio News in the city of San Francisco and suburbs, w^iich latter included Happy Valley and the adjacent sand-hills. Mr. Falkner, the senior proprietor of the News, prior to emigrating to California, published a paper in Norwich, Connecticut. When the gold fever broke out in the New England States Mr. F. was one of its first victims. He packed up his printing-office, and engaging passage for himself and two sons on board a vessel, sailed for the 22 (385) 386 THE PACIFIC NEWS ITS STAFF. " modern EJ I^ovndo, via Cape ITorn. At Valparaiso, he made the acquaintance of Warren Leland, one of the pro- prietors of the Clinton Hotel, New York, en route to the gold-digglnfjs of California. Leland having an eye to business, proposed to enter into copartnership with Falkner upon their arrival at San Francisco. His proposition was accepted; and immediately upon reaching San Francisco, a frame building was hastily constructed on Kearney Street, and on the 25th of August, the first number of the Pacific News Avas published, with Falkner as editor, and Leland as business manager. A few weeks subsequently, Charles Fames, of Washington, D. C, appointed by President Polk consul to the Hawaiian Islands, arrived in San Francisco en route, but was prevailed upon by Falkner and Leland to forego his mission, locate in San Francisco, and assume editorial charge of the News, at a salary of $500 per month. As the election and inaugm-ation of Zacliary Taylor, as Pres- ident of the United States, had rendered the recall of Mr. Fames a foregone conclusion, that gentleman considered discretion the better jxirt of valor, and accepted the editor- ship of the News. Simultaneously with the engagement of ^Ir. Fames as editor-in-chief, a tall, lank, hirsute Yankee of the name of Ames alias " Boston," was engaged as a local reporter of the Ncirs. Ames subsequently published in San Diego, California, a zcealdi/ paper, called the Herald, which for a single week was edited by " John Phoenix," the Califor- nia humorist. During the temporary absence of Ames, Pha^nix changed the politics of the Herald from red-hot Democratic to Whig, M-hich so exasperated Ames that a free fight occurred in the composing-room. During the melee, the forms were knocked into pi, and the com- batants became so thoroughly mixcil, that t'other couldn t be distinguished from which. Phivnix, in his published account of the fight, claimed he mou the victory by insert- i THE FIRST AND SECOND PAPERS. 387 ing Ids nose between the teeth of Ames, and holding him down nntil he cried peccavl ! The Pacifie Neivs was the first tri-weekly, and at tliat time the third paper i)ul)lishcd in California, the other two being the Alta California, published in San Francisco by Gilbert & Kemble, and the Placer Times, published at Sacramento City by E. Gilbert & Co., and edited by Jesse Giles, both weekly sheets, and small patterns at that, the latter being foolscap size. The Monterey Californian was the first newspaper issued in California. It was published and edited by Rev. Walter Colton, a Chaplain of the United States Navy, and Dr. Robert Semple. The type was principally Long Primer, an old Spanish fount, badly worn and battered. There being no "AY" in the Spanish alphabet, two " Vs" were substituted for that letter. The press was an old " Ramage," which had been used by the Mexican function- aries for printing their edicts and other public papers. The first number of the Californian was issued in the summer of 1846, and M'as printed on an inferior quality of paper, used for tobacco wrappers. Mr. John R. Gould, at present a resident of Baltimore, Maryland, and Secretary of the " Maryland Association of Veterans of the Mexican War," Avith the assistance of a boy, set the type, worked off the paper and kept the books of the office. Mr. B. P. Kooser, a corporal in the United States Army, was com- positor and pressman on the Californian in 1847. Mr. Kooser subsequently for several years published and edited the Sentinel at Santa Cruz, California, and was a commis- sioner from that State at the Centennial Exhibition. The second paper published in California was the Cal- ifornia Star, the first number of which was issued at San Francisco, on the 9th day of January, 1847. It was a weekly sheet, a trifle larger than the Californian, and was published by Sam Brannan, and edited by E. P. Jones. The press on which the Star was printed was a tolerably 388 STAR AND CALIFORNIAN MERGED. good one, and was afterward used by the Sonera Herald. On the 17th of the foHowing April, Mr. Jones retired from the Stm-, and Mr. E. C. Kemble assumed editorial charge. The Star Avas published regularly during the year 1847, the last number of the first volume being issued on the 1st day of January, 1848. In the month of INIay, 1847, the Calif ornian was re- moved from Monterey to San Francisco, and on the 1st of June of that year, the first number of its second volume appeared. The second volume continued on from that time until April, 1848, during wliich time the paper changed publishers and editors several times. The first number of the second volume of the California Star ap- peared on the 8th of January, 1848, in an enlarged form, and its publication was continued regularly until the 26th of the following May, when the printers vamosed to the mines, and its publication Avas discontinued. In the month of April, the Calif ornian was discontinued for the same reason. From the last of May until the latter part of June, 1848, California was without a newspaper. About the 1st of July, a few printers, w4io had returned disgusted with the mines, commenced the publication of the third volume of the Californian. It was issued every now and then, without any regard to regularity, until August, 1848, when it recommenced its regular weekly issues, under the editorial management of H. I. Sheldon. In September of the same year, Mr. Kemble returned from the mines, purchased the Californian, also the interests of his partners in the Star, and united the two papers imder the name of the Star and Californian, and recommenced its publication where the Star had stopped. Vol. Ill, No. 24. The Star and Califoimian was the only paper then published in California, and was issued weekly until the last of December, 1848, when it was discontinued, and on the 1st of January, 1849, Mr. Kemble united with himself Messrs. Gilbert and Hubbard, and commenced ALTA CALIFORNIA AND PLACER TIMES. "389 the publication of tlie Alfa California. The Alia California was published weekly, until the 10th of December, 1849, when it was issued tri-weekly, and after the 23d of January, 1850, came out daily, simultaneously with the Journal of Commerce, published by W. Bartlett. On the 4th of the ensuing IMarch, the PacifiG News also appeared daily. The next paper, the fourth started, and the second then published in California was the Placer Times at New Helvetia, Sutter's Fort, afterward Sacramento City. The first number of the Placer Times appeared on the 28t}i day of April, 1849, and was printed Aveekly, on a cap sheet, as paper of a larger size could not be obtained. The publishers were E. C. Kemble & Co., the editor being Mr. Kemble. On the 19th of the following June, on ac- count of ill health, Mr. Kemble vacated the editorial chair, and T. R. Per Lee* assumed charge. On the 25th of August, 1849, Mr. Per Lee resigned, and Jesse Giles continued the publication of the paper for E. Gilbert &Co. In 1849, very little jirinting-paper was to be had in California ; but the market was overstocked with unruled foolscap pa})er, which was substituted for the former. The size of the Pacific Neivs was a foolscap sheet ; and as en- largement was a matter of imjiossibility, supplementary sheets were added to accommodate advertisers. The price of the News Avas 12|- cents a copy, or 75 cents a week, payable to the carrier. Steamer editions, published on the first of each month, and printed on wrapping-paper of various colors and qualities, sold at 50 cents a copy. Ad- vertisemeuts were $5 a square, each insertion. I experienced little difficulty in getting up a payii^g list of customers for the New^s. Nearly every one on whom I called gladly subscribed for the paper, and at the end of * At this time (September, 1878,) a resident of Baltimore, Maryland. 390 A NEW FIRM, PUBLISHERS OF cacli "week puiJ mo promptly. I had scarcely become accustomed to my new vocation, when the situation of book-keeper Avas tendered to me by the proprietor of tlie News, Avith a salary of |100 a week. I sold my carrier's route for v^-^*^^, J^'id accepted the situation, which I held until the following spring. In the month of INTarch, 1850, there arrived in the har- bor of ISan Francisco a ship from New Orleans, with an assorted cargo, among which was a second-hand jn-inting office, with some thirty reams of printing-pa})er. The type, presses (a card and hand press), paper, ink, etc., were invoiced in New Orleans at §950, but were valued in San Francisco at $15,000, and could have been sold for that amount in coin, as printing material was very scarce, and '* sorts" were worth their weight in gold. Mr. G. K. Fitch, the owner oi' the printing material, proposed to five of the attaches of the Paclfe Xcws — F. C. Ewer, II. S. AVarrcn, tl. ]\l. Julian, T. Ivusscll and S. C. Upham — the formation of a copartncrshi(>, with a view to the publication of a paper in Sacramento City. The proposition Avas accepted, articles of agrcoment executed, and on the 1st day of April, 1850, the initial number of the Sacramento Transcript was issued by Fitch, Upham c*c Co. The Transcript was jnih- lished tri-weekly during the months of April and ]May, ami on the 1st of June it became a daily. It was printed on a folio sheet, in Brevier and Nonpareil type. A steamer edition, for circulation in the Atlantic States, was printed on the first of each month. The daily sold at 1'2a cents a copy, and iUc steamer edition at 50 cents a copy. Adver- tisements were inserted at $4 per square, each insertion. The six copartners occu])ied the following positions on the paper: O. K. Fitch, lu\ivy and lighting editor; F. C Fwcr, literary editor; II. S. AVarren, foreman; J. ^I. Ju- lian, compositor; T. Russell, pressman, and S. C. Upham, local reporter, printer's devil, business manager, "dead- head," etc. THE SACRAMENTO TRANSCEIPT. 391 Tho Sacramento Transcrij)t was tlic fiflli newspaper piib- lislied on tlie Pacific const, and tlic first daily out of San Francisco ])nblishcd in California. Ten days later, the lOtli of June, the Placer Times came out daily. The Transcript was a financial success from the start, but as the gold rolled in, its proprietors rolled out. Mr. Julian retired before the expiration of the second month, and the business nianager a month later, having sold his interest in the Transcript for ,1?10,000 =•= to Mr. G. C.Weld, California correspondent of the New York Journal of Commerce. Mr. Weld was a model business man as well as a versatile and graceful writer. ITad he lived, he would liave made a shining mark in California journalism. IJeing of a deli- cate and fragile organization, his system was j)rostrated by the vicissitudes of pioneer life, and within six weeks from the time he became one of the proprietors of the Transci'ipt he passed from earth to that bourn whence no traveler returns. The Transci'ipt, after the death of Mr. Weld, being without a competent business manager, began to wane. It was afterward merged into the Placer Times, another sickly daily at that time ; but after the consolida- tion, the new enterprise was a success. A year later the Times and Transcript was removed to San Francisco, and took a leading position as a Democratic organ. In June, 1853, Pickering & Fitch sold the ])aper for $30,000 to Gciger, Washington & Kerr. It died in 185G of a Demo- cratic controversy. Too much Tannnany killed it! On the 13tli of April, two weeks after the advent of the Transcript in Sacramento City, the Placer Times, then under the editorial management of Colonel J. E. Lawrence, came out tri-weekly. Early in the following October, E. Gilbert &. Co. disposed of the Times to Messrs. I*ickering, Lawrence <& Co., the former gentleman assuming the chair of senior editor. Colonel J. E. Lawrence, the junior * Three thousand dollars cash, and the notes of the purchaser for the balance. The notes were not paid. Mr. Weld's death cancelled them. 392 DEBUT OF SOME CELEBRITIES. editor and one of tlie most genial and companionable gentlemen it has ever been my good fortune to meet, arrived in California early in '49, overland, via Mexico and Lower California, by mule express. Soon after the collapse of the Times and Transcript, Colonel I^iawrcnce cither started or purchased an interest in the San Francisco Golden Era, the leading literary journal of the Pacific coast, and assumed its editorial management. The Golden Era was the alma mcder, and Colonel Joe Lawrence the godfather of Bret Harte, Prentice Miilford, Charles Warren Stoddart, Dinsmore, the dramatizer of Mark Twain's "Gilded Age/' Minnie Myrtle, and a host of lesser lights, whose early lucubrations first appeared in that journal. Bret Harte was for a short time compositor in the office of the Golden Era, the situation having been obtained through the intercession of his sister, an occasional contributor, and his first two productions were published anonymously in that journal, while he was working at case. When the authorship of the sketches became known, the Golden Era lost an indifferent compositor, but added to its staff of litterateurs a rough diamond, which, with careful polishing, ere long became a gem of the first water. Steve Massett, " Jeems Pipes of Pipesville," was one of the early birds, having arrived in Sau Francisco early in '49. Mark Twain, Bret Harte, Prentice Mulford and Dinsmore arrived later, although it is generally believed by archaeologists that Mark Twain started for California immediately after the deluge, but owing to snags in the Mississippi Piver and scientific researches en route, did not actually arrive in California until A. D. 1852. The first opening that occurred after his arrival in San Francisco was caused by an earthquake. This event so exasperated INIark, that he immediately laid in a box of l>ipes, a barrel of smoking tobacco and a few kegs of lager as small stores, and sailed direct for the Sandwich Islands, where for several years he hobnobbed with King Kamchameha, and SEVERAL FIEST NUMBERS. 6\)6 played "Jumping Frog of the Calaveras/' for the amuse- ment of Prince Kalakaua and other sprigs of Kanaka royalty. Prentice Mulford, after Avasting his sweetness fourteen years in California, during which time he was by turns pro- spector, miner, politician, pedagogue and litterateur, quietly folded his tent, and hied himself to " merrie England," where, like a sensible man, he took unto himself a better- half, and is now striving to fulfill the scriptural injunction, " Increase and multiply." Mr. Mulford's letters to the San Francisco Evening Bulletin, during his sojourn in England, France and Austria, gained for him an enviable reputation, and his '^Centennial Notes'' from Philadelphia, contributed to the same journal during the year 1876, place him in the front rank of his profession. Mr. Mulford is also a pleasing lecturer, and if he were to devote his attention to the rostrum, would excel either Bret Harte or Mark Twain. On the 16th of March, 1850, Mr. J. White published the first number of the Stockton TimeSf in the city of Stockton, on the San Joaquin River. The Times was a weekly paper printed on a cap sheet, in Long Primer type. H. H. Radcliif soon afterward purchased an interest in the paper, enlarged it and changed its name to the Stockton Times and Tuolumne City Intelligencer, On June 1 9th, INIr. J. S. Robb, a native of Philadelphia, and at one time connected with the St. Louis Reveille, issued in Stockton the first number of the semi- weekly Stockton Journal. On June 1st, Foy, Nugent & Co. issued the first number of the San Francisco Daily Herald. The Hercdd was edited by John Nugent, formerly connected Avith the Neio York Herald. On the 1st of July, the first number of the San Fran- cisco Courier (daily) appeared. It was published and edited by 3lessrs. Crane & Rice, and was Whig in poll- 394 FIEST STEAM PEINTING-PRESS. tics, being the seooiul political jiapor iu California, the PaoijiG News, then cilited bv ^Ir. F. C. Ewer, liaving, in the preccclinc; Jannaiy, espoused the Democratic cause. On August od, John II. CJihon & Co. eomuienced the publication of the San Francisco J^irning Picayune, edited by P. A. Brinsinade. The Picdi/uue Avas the first evening paper published in California; and its senior proprietor was a native of Philadelphia. The first number of the So)iora Herald (weekly) Avas published on July 4th, by J. White & J. G. Marvin. It "was printed on a cap sheet, and iu liong Primer type. The semi-weekly Jllari/srille Herald made its first appear- ance on the Gth of August. It was published and edited by R. II. Taylor. The size of the paper was a cross be- tween cap and folio post. I will here state that to INIr. Edward Connor, formerly of the Kcir York Jlerald, is due the credit of having brought the first steain-j)ower printing-press to California. It was a Napier press, made by R. lloe ct Co., and arrived in May, 1850. The first j)aper printed by steam-power in California- was the Alta California. "When the writer left California, in the mouth of August, 1850, the Alia Cali- fornia, Pacific Keirs, Journal of Commerce, Californict Courier, Herald and l^roiing Picat/une, of San Francisco, the Transcript and Placer Times, of Sacramento City, the Times and Jourjtal, of Stockton, and the So)iora. Herald and Mart/svillc Herald wvvc the only newsjiapers published in that State, ami with a single exception — the Oregonian, at Portland, Oregon — the only journals jniblished on the Pacilie coast north of Mazatlan. The Pacific News had changed proprietors, and in Au- gust, 1850, was edited by General Jonas Winchester, a former associate of Horace Greeley in the New-Yorker. The Evening Picayune w:is at that time edited by Dr. John H. Gihon, private secretary to Colonel John W. Geary, then Mavor of San Francisco. The late General John W. THE CHANGES OF TIME. 395 Geary was tlio last AJcnJdc and the first Mayor of San Francisco, and 1 am quite certain that city lias never since been governed more ably or satisfactorily. 'As a brother- pioneer and 'Forty-niner, I feel an honest ])ridc in the brilliant record achieved during the war of the rebellion by the first Mayor of San Francisco. May his laurels ever remain green in the hearts of his countrymen. Twenty-six years have wrought wonderful changes in California, as well as along the entire northern Pacific coast. Old landmarks have become almost entirely oblite- rated. San Francisco, with her few dozens of adobe and frame structures in 1849, and a population of less than 1,500 souls, at the ])resent time contains a population of 300,000, and is the second commercial city on the Avestern continent. When the agricultural resources of the Pacific slope shall have become as fully and thoroughly developed as its mineral. New York must look to her laurels. The press has fully kept ])ace with other improvements. I have before me a list of 2(S3 newspapers and ])eriodicals published at this time in the States of California and Ore- gon. At present there are published in San Francisco 16 dailies, 43 weeklies, 1 semi-weekly, 15 monthlies and semi- monthlies. In the State there are published 239 journals and periodicals, of which 47 are daily papers. The ave- rage circulation is 2,035. Taking the last census as a basis, the ratio of newspapers and periodicals published in California is larger, according to population, than any other State of the Union, being 90 copies yearly to each inhabitant. The State of New York is second on the list, with 89 yearly copies to each inhabitant. The San Francisco Evening Bullei'm and the Morning 0(/l, j)artly owned and controlled by Mr. G. K. Fitch, my former associate in the Sacramento Tramjcript, are ably-con- ducted journals and are said to be the best paying news- paper properties in California. Mr. Fitch's associates in the Bulletin and Call arc JSIr. L. I'ickering, formerly one of 396 THE OLD JOURNALISTS OF •49-50, the editors ami proprietors of the Placer Times, and !Mr. J. "W. Sinionton, agent of the New York " Associated Press," both experienced and able journalists. The Bul- Iciin has always been a terror to evil-doers, ami ISlv. Fitch, the liead and front of that journal, has, by his honest, able and judicious management, earned the deserved title of the Horace Greeley of the Pacific Coast — but will never run for President. Few of the journalists connected Mith the California press in 1849-'50 now reside in the State of their early labors ; Fitch and Pickering being the only ones now in working harness. B. P. Kooser,* veteran pioneer printer, has recently vacated the sanctum of the Santa Cruz Sentinel, and now sits under his own vine and fig-tree in that beautiful semi-tropical city by the sea, sur- rounded by the idols of his heart — wife and chiklren. Mr. F. C. Ewer has given the flesh and the devil the cold shoulder, donned sacerdotal robes, and is at present rector of St. Ignatius Church, New York City. Messrs. Kemble and Russell arc also residents of the latter city. Some twenty years since, ^Ir. Gilbert was killed by General Denver, in a duel at Oak Grove, near Sacramento City. Colonel Joe Lawrence has retired to the classic shades of Bay City, Long Lsland, where he presides with dignitv over the Society for the ''Prevention of Cruelty to Animals,'" nurses that same old meerschaum and luxuriates on cold tea with a stick in it.f Charles Eanies returned to AVashington, D. C, * Deceased since the above was written. t Death of Colonh. Joskimi E. Lawrence — The telograpli an- nounces tlie deatli at Tom's Kiver, N. J., of Colonel Joseph E. Law- rence, of Flushing;, Long Island, one of the old newspaper men of this coast. Colonel Lawrence came to this .State in 1849. In the following year he was employed by E. Gilbert & Co. to edit the Placer I'ivies, at Sacramento. Subsequently he became a partner of Loring Pickering in the publication of the same journal. In ISoI the Times and the Transcript, another Sacramento paper, were merged into one, and during the following year the paper was moved to this city. Colonel Lawrence continued his connection with the Times and 'Transcript till lSo4. After that he was one of the proprietors of the Golden Era for a long time. He tilled a position in the Custom-house during the administration of B. F. Washington. His latter ye;irs were spent between this city and WARREN LELAND AND GEN. WINCHESTER. 397 practiced law there, was subsequently appointed minister to Ecuador, and died seven or eiglit years ago. Dr. John H. Gihon is also dead. Warren Lcland returned to Cali- fornia a few years since and managed the "Grand Palace Hotel," in San Francisco, until quite recently, when lie returned to New York city, where he now resides. General Jonas Winchester, the veteran journalist, is at this time a resident of Grass Valley, California. New York, where he was higlily connected. For a considerable period he also had a lucrative place in the Custom-house of the latter city. Colonel Lawrence was one of those genial men who never make an enemy. In his more youthful days he was remarkable for the neatness of his dress and his personal beauty. As a newspaper man he took fair rank, though his writings as a general thing were more suited for the literary weekly than tlie daily newspaper. They were, for the most part, of the easy-chair, sunshiny sort, which one wishes to read in dressing-gown and slippers. For the last three or four years of his life Colonel Lawrence had undergone a great change, supposed to have been the result of sunstroke in New York. He had become careless in his dress and inert, but he never lost his good nature and pleasant manners. He will long hold a place in the memory of the old members of the pro- fession. One of his most remarkable traits was his open-handedness. He was willing to share almost all he had with his friends. If he had not been so generous he might liave been a rith man. As it was, tiie residue of a reasonable fortune — some $12,000 or i?1.3,000^ie took Fast for the purchase of an old homestead, for which he always manifested the greatest attachment. — San Francisco Bulletin, July 15th, 1878. "CALIFORNIA DAY" AT THE CENTENNIAL EXHIBITION. Preliminary meeting in New York — Committee appointed — Rev. Albert Williams addresses the meeting — Programme of exercises — 'Forty-niners and other Californians present — Distinguished guests — Addresses by Hon. Rodman M. Price, Generals II. G. Gibson and Joe Hooker, Governor Curtin, General Sutter, Governor Hartranft and Colin M. Boyd — "Song of the Argonauts" — The banquet — Fire ! fire ! — Telegrams sent to San Francisco. At a special meeting of " The Associated Pioneers OF the Territorial Days of California/' held at the Sturtevant House, New York, on the evening of May 15th, 1876, General H. Gates Gibson, U. S. A., President, in the chair, the following resolutions were unanimously adopted : Resolved, That the members of this Society assemble at the Pacific Coast Centennial Hall, Centennial Grounds, Philadelphia, on the 9th day of September next, the twenty- sixth anniversary of the admission of California into the Union, and that all Californians throughout the country be requested, without further notice, to join with us ujDon that occasion, m one grand re-union of Culiforniau?. Resolved, That the Secretary be instructed to furnish copies of the minutes of this meeting to the press of this and other cities, and also to all Californians whose names are registered in the book kept for that purpose by the Society, requesting their co-operation in the movement fur a rc-union of Califor- nians at Philadelphia, on the 9th day of September next. (398) AEEANGEMENTS FOE " CALIFOENIA DAY." 399 In compliance with a resolution, the President appointed the following committee to make the necessary arrange- ments in Philadelphia, for the visit of the Society in Sep- tember : ISIessrs. E. F. Burton, Thomas D. Johns, S. L. Merchant, John Gault and W. M. Walton. The President ajjpointed the following committee to confer with non-member Californians, and ask their co- operation in the re-union at Philadelphia : Messrs. O. PI. Pierson, H. B. Hawkins and John A. Godfrey. Dnring the evening, the Rev. Albert Williams, of San Francisco, Secretary of the Pacific Coast Centennial Com- mittee, addressed the Society, on invitation of the Chair, and gave the details of the building in course of erection at Philadelphia, and stated that it would be ready for occupancy Juno 1st, and extended the use of the hall to the members of this Society, and all other Californians visiting the Exhibition. Upon the conclusion of the remarks of Mr. Williams, the President returned to that gentleman the thanks of the Society. At a subsequent meeting of the Society, the programme on the following page was adopted : 400 PROGRAMME OF EXERCISES. RE-UNION OF CALIFORNIANS Under the auspices of Tie Associated Pioneers ol tlie Territorial Days of California, (HEAD-QUARTERS IX NEW YORK CITY,) AT THK PACIFIC COAST CENTENNIAL HALL, EXHIBITION GROUNDS, PHILADELPHIA, On Saturday, September^ c)Th, 1876, AT ONE O'CLOCK, P. M. {Twenty-Sixth Anniversary of the Admission of California into the Union.) PROGRAMME OF EXERCISES. 1. INTRODUCTION OF Gen. JOHN A. SUTTER, by Prest Gibson. 2. MUSIC— "Hail to the Chief." 3. PRAYER, by Rev. Dr. Allen. 4. ADDRESS OF WELCOME, by General H. G. Gibson. U. S. A., President of the Associated Pioneers. 5. MUSIC— '-'Centennial Ode." Geibel. 6. READING OF LETTERS, by the Secretary of the Society. 7. MUSIC -" O California I" 8. ADDRESS, by Hon. Rodman M Price, cx-Govemor of Ncic Jersey, And a participant with Commodore Ploat in the raising of the American Flag at Monterey. California, July 7th, 184G. 9. MUSIC— " Star Spangled Banner." 10. "SONG OF THE ARGONAUTS; OR DAYS OF MO." Composed expressly for this occasion by S. C. Upiiam, Esq.. of Philadelphia. yolo by Sir. tii:ou(;E A. Conly, Basso of the Kellogg Opera Troupe. Tlie audience will please join in the chorus. 11. MUSIC— " Potpourri. Operatic Airs." BANQUET, at Globe Hotel. Music by McClurg's Comet Band. Selections of Music by the Band from 12 o'clock, noon, until the commencement of the e.xercises. Also, appropriate Music on the " Centennial Chimes," by Professor WiUDows. Saturday, September Otli, was a eharmino; antunui day, and at one o'clock, P. M., an audience of seven lumdred persons had assembled in the "Pacific Coast Centen- nial Hall." The assemblage Mas composed mainly of DISTINGUISHED PIONEERS. 403 former residents of the Pacific slope ; many of the number being ladies, who heartily enjoyed the festive occasion. Two large and beautiful American flags of California silk, belonging to Mr. Neuman, of that State, arched the space behind the speakers' platform, and strips of bunting around the entire walls and pillars decorated the hall, while McClurg's Cornet Band enlivened the intervals between the speeches, with choice selections of music. Placards with appropriate mottoes also adorned the walls. A large and artistically-executed seal of the Eureka State, com- posed entirely of native woods, and loaned for the occasion by ]\Ir. J. R. Scupham, occupied a prominent j^osition on the speakers' stand. On the platform were seated some half-dozen gentlemen, whose personal history had been more or less identified with the exciting days of the early gold discoveries in the modern El Dorado. Prominent among these was tiie veteran pioneer. General John A. Sutter, in his seventy-fourth year. Among other repre- sentatives of the first settlers of the Golden State, who occupied seats either on the platform or in the audience, were the followinir : o Hon. Rodman M. Price, ex-Governor of New Jersey, who was a participant with Commodore Sloat in the raising of the American flag at Monterey, California, on July 7th, 1846; Colin M. Boyd, President of the "Territorial Pioneers of California;" B. P. Kooser, of Santa Cruz, California, one of the Centennial Commissioners from that State, who, in 1 847, was engaged as pressman and printer on the Calif ornian, at Monterey, the first newspaper printed in California; Major-General Joseph Hooker, U. S. A., General H. Gates Gibson, U, S. A., John Sickels, Francis D. Clark and wife. General Thomas D. Johns, D. M. Chauncey, S. L. Merchant, William M.Walton, O. H. Pier- son, H. M. Newhall, E. F. Burton, John H. Gardiner and wife, Mrs. Dr. Chas. Blake, William J. Curtis, James E. Nuttmann, Gordon P. Cummings, John H. Trowbridge, 23 40-1 GEN. GIBSON" INTRODUCES GEN. SUTTER. J()]m A. Codfroy niul Mifo, Prentice MulforJ and ■wife, Joa- quin Millor, Samuel C Ui>liani, A. B. Duncan, T. ConUlin,