GIJiNCB SuccEssnri Threshing LIBRARY OF CONGRESS DDD177a411D Dingee-MacGregor Class ^^ Book_ .^_— __ Copyright }j^. / «^ ^^' COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING JDingee-MacGregor FIFTH EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED Publisked by J. I. CASE THRESHING MACHINE CO. RACINE. WIS. 1997. 4NCOHPQRATEP Copyrighted by R. T. ROBINSON 1899 ;L!BRAHY of CONGRESS Two GonK"i >?(">'""ecl JUN 21 ibU9 wrmf COPY D. HE object of this book is to enable the owners and the operators of ''Case" Threshing Ma- chinery to become famihar with the construc- tion and operation of their engines and ma- chines. The material has been gathered, not only from the author's personal experience, l)ut also from notes taken during visits to the outfits of a large number of the best and most successful threshermen in various localities. The aim has been to avoid theorizing and to make only such statements as have been demonstrated practical, by actual field experience. The fact is appreciated that it i& impossible to lay down specific rules for operating threshing machinery, under the ever varying conditions of grain, strav'/ and weather, but it is hoped that the suggestions herein embodied will enable a man of ordinary intelligence to operate his machine success- fully, and to be, to a certain extent, an expert himiself. It is the intention to continue revising it from time to time, and with this aim in view, suggestions and criticisms will be welcomed from threshermen, wherever located, to whom this little volume is respectfully dedicated. CONTENTS. For Index, f^ee page 223. PART 1. ENGINES. Page. Chapter I Fitting Up and Starting a New Engine 9 II Tlie Feed Water " 13 " III Firing with Various Fuels 2D " IV Lubrication and Adjustment of Bearings. ... 35 " V Handling the Engine ■ 4 7 " VI The Engine Proper 5 3 VII The Valve Gear 69 YIU The Boiler • 81 IX The Ti-action Gearing 95 " X Water Tanks -103 . XI Horse Powers 107 PART II. SEPARATORS. Page. Fitting Up and Starting a New Separator. ... 121 Setting the Separator • 125 The Cylinder, Concaves and Beater 129 The Straw-rack and Conveyor 141 The Cleaning Apparatus 143 Threshing with a Regula.rly Equipped Sepa- rator 151 VII Threshing watli a Specially Equipped Sepa- rator 161 VIII Feeding the Separator 171 IX The Straw Stackers 177 X The Grain Handlers 187 XI Lubrication and Care of the Separator 195 XII The Belting of a Separator 201 XIII The Pulleys of a Separator. 211 XIV Babbitting Boxes 215 XV The Waste in Threshing 219 Chapter I II III IV V VI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Page. Fig-. 1 Left Side Elevation of "Case" Traction Engine 8 2 Sectional View of Injector ** 19 3 Sectional View of "Marsh" Pump 23 4 Sectional View of Check-valve ...'.'.'.*..*.!! ! 25 5 Sectional View of "Case" Heater ...*....'...'.'! 27 6 Sectional View of Fire-box for Burning Straw."!.'.'.'.'.*,' 32 7 Top or Plan-view of "Case" Traction Engine. .......... 34 8 Sectional View of "Ideal" Cup .* .* 37 9 Oil Pump Attached 38 10 Swift Lubricator 39 11 The Connecting-rod ' 42 " 12 The Cross-head .................." 44 13 Engine Fittings l. ....... ...].. 46 14 Side Elevation of Engine Proper 53 15 Sectional View of Simple Cylinder .......[.. '. [ [ [ .' .' ." 54 16 Governor ry 17 Sectional View of Governor Valve ..".'.".'.'.'.' 58 18 Sectional View of "Woolf" Compounded Cylinder 64 19 Face of Valve ' gg 20 Showing Pipe to Steam Plugs ........[[.[[.. 66 21 The Center-head Packing g7 " 22 The "Woolf" Reverse Valve-gear.. . fic " 23 Tram on Disc '.'.'.'.'.'.'..'. 73 24 Tram on Cross-head 74 25 Tram on Valve-stem 76 26 Sectional View of Boiler with Grates "f'o'r 'coal 'or'wo'od' 84 27 Interior of Gage ' or " 28 Section of Siphon '..'.'.".".'. 86 29 Sectional View of Pop-valve , 86 30 Cut Showing Cannon-bearings and GearinV qr ■' 31 Friction Clutch , gj 32 Section of Clutch-arm and Rings. . .*......'.'. 93 33 Rear View of "Case" Traction Engine. . . . . 99 34 The Differential Gear, Showing Sprins-s. 101 35 Top View of Power with Sweeps and Equal'izer 'Attached! 109 ;; 36 Sectional View of 12 and 14 Horse Iron-frame Power "ll7 o7 Sectional View of "Case" Separator "ton 43 Sieves and Screens j ,q ;; 44 Left_ Side of Separator with Feeder 'r'nd'wi'nd 'stacker! !l71 4o Sectional View of "Case" Feeder l"o ;; 46 Right Side of Separator with Feeder and' windStacker! 177 47 Sectional View of Wind Stacker. . i^l 48 Telescoping Device for Straw-chute 1 q9 " 49 Head of "Case" Weigher 1 oq " 50 Leather Belt Lacings oqI 51 Location of Holes for Lacing a Canvas Belt " " 207 " 52 Stitched Canvas Belt Lacings 208 53 Pdght Side of Separator with Feeder ' and ' !Attached' ■"^^^^^^'^ 218 PARTI. ENGINES. w % l-H o w o I— t H U < H O O >-( < •J w o l-H i^ CHAPTER I. FITTING UP AND STARTING A NEW ENGINE. N packing an engine for shipment it is usual to remove the brass fittings to prevent their being stolen. These, together with the hose, governor belt and wrenches are packed in a box. The rod for the flue scraper (and the straw fork, for straw burning boiler), are placed in the boiler tubes and the funnel for filling the boiler is placed in the smoke-box. The fire-box, ash-pan, tubes and smoke-box should be examined to insure the removal of all loose parts before the fire is started. - Attaching Brass Fittings. In attaching the fittings to the boiler, care should be taken to screw them in tightly enough to prevent leaking. Brass expands more with heat than iron, therefore where a brass fitting screws into iron, the joint will be tighter when hot than when cold : consequently should there be a leakage it should be stopped by screwing the fitting in a little further when cold. In screwing a pipe into a valve or other fitting, the wrench should be used on the end of the valve into which the pipe is being screwed. When the wrench is put on the opposite end, the valve is sub- jected to a twisting strain that is very liable to distort and pun it. The blow-off valve and other valves about the engine lO SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. should be so attached tliat the pressure will be on the under side of the valve seat. Then the packing around the valve stem can leak only when the valve is open, and may be re- newed at any time the valve is shut. A valve should not be too tightly closed when cold as expansion due to heating will force the valve so hard against its seat as to injure it. Starting the Fire. When the fittings are all in place, fill the boiler with water, by means of the funnel, until the glass easre shows about an inch and one-half of water. This is on the assumption that the boiler is level and if. not, allowance should be made accordingly. The water will run in faster if one of the gage-cocks, the blower or the whistle be opened to allow the air to escape. The boiler being filled, the funnel may be removed and the filler plug replaced. When coal is used as fuel, wood should be used to start the fire, the fire-box being kept full until steam begins to show on the gage. Then, if it be desired to hasten the rise of steam, the blower may be started and coal thrown onto the fire. Oiling the Engine. While waiting for steam, the dope may be removed from the bright work with rags or cotton waste, saturated with benzine or kerosene. The oil holes and cups are usually filled with grease at the factory to keep out cinders and dirt during shipment of the engine. This grease should be removed, so that the oil may reach the place it is intended to lubricate. All the bearings should be oiled, the oil cups being filled with good machine oil. Where FITTING UP AND STARTING A NEW ENGINE. II the oil box is large enough, it should be filled with a little wool or cotton waste in order to keep out the dirt, and to retain the oil. Good cylinder oil must be used in the lu- bricator or oil pump. Starting the Engine Proper. When the gage shows about forty pounds of steam, the cylinder cocks should be opened and the engine started, the throttle being opened gradually so that the water which has condensed and collected in the cylinder may haye a chance to escape. The reverse lever should be handled as explained elsewhere in this book. If the engine does not start when the throttle is opened, pos- sibly the governor stem has been screwed down sufficiently to shut off the steam. This sometimes occurs in transporta- tion. As soon as the engine is running, care should be taken to see that the lubricator is started properly. The bearings should be felt of to determine any tendency to heat. The pump and injector should next be tried to see that they are in working order. The steam pressure should now be raised to the blowing off point, which is usually 130 pounds, to try the pop or safety valve. If it does not open at this pressure, pulling the lever will probably start it. If not, it is out of adjust- ment and should be re-set, as explained elsewhere in this book. Starting the Traction Parts. When the engine has been run a sufficient time to insure everything being in good run- ning order (if it be a traction engine), preparations may 12 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. be made for a trip on the road. To do this, the trunnion-ring of the friction-ckitch should be oiled and the shoes adjusted to properly engage the rim of the fly-wheel. Any paint that may be on the long hub of the arm should be scraped off to allow the free movement of the ring, which slides thereon, as the clutch is thrown in or out of engagement. All the trac- tion gearing should now be greased, and a quantity of oil poured into the cannon-bearings. Next the stud of the inter- mediate gear, the bevel pinions of the differential gear, and the bearings of the steering-roller and hand-wheel shaft should be oiled. The steering-chains should be properly adjusted as elsewhere explained. Caution. A new engine should have close attention for the first few days until the bearings become smooth. The engine has been run in the testing-room at the factory, and it is probable that the bearings are properly adjusted. How- ever, they should be felt of at short intervals, and should one of them heat to any extent, it will be best to loosen it a little. A fast run should not be attempted the first two or three trips on the road, but the engine should be allowed to run below its normal speed until bearings are smooth and the operator becomes accustomed to handling the engine. During the first few days, it is necessary to use three or four pints of cylinder oil in ten hours in order to keep the valve and cylinder well lubricated. Afterwards the amount may be lessened, but it is essential that cylinder oil be fed continually. CHAPTER 11. THE FEED WATER. HE feed water demands the constant watch- fulness of the engineer. It is his first and most important duty to know that there is sufficient water in the boiler at all times. If he relaxes his attention to it for even a short interval, disastrous results are likely to follow. A modern traction engine is usually fitted with two separate and independent means of feeding water to the boiler. By this arrangement, if the boiler feeder in use be disabled at any time, the other may be put to work without delay. These feeders should receive close attention and each be in condition to work at a moment's notice. If either fails to work properly at any time, it should be repaired immediately. It is essential to use the cleanest water obtainable, as dirty water always causes trouble. It is a good plan to strain the water as it passes into the mounted tank, by placing a cotton grain sack in the hole so that it extends to the bottom of the tank. For this purpose a cheap sack of coarse open texture is the best. The mouth of the bag can be turned over the rim around the hole and tied with a string or strap, but a better way is to have a hoop that just fits over the bag. It is 13 14 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. important to see that the suction hose and connections are free from leaks. The pipe nipples, which screw into the boiler at the point at which the feed water enters, should be examined occasionally, for with some waters they ''lime-up" in a remarkably short time. When necessary to shut down from lack of water, it should be done while the glass shows at least half an inch, as the water-level will fall that much when the engine is stopped, and the water in the boiler al- lowed to settle. What to do when water does not show in glass. If you find that the water has been allowed to get below th^ glass gage and lower gage cock, leaving the crown-sheet bare, when the engine has been standing still for a time, bank the fire and leave the engine alone until it cools. If It be working when you discover the water is out of the glass, the thing to do, is get the front end of the engine up at once. Back the traction wheels into ditch or furrow, run the front wheels up hill or onto a wood or coal pile, or use any means to get the front of the boiler high. If in soft ground there may be time to dig holes for the traction wheels, but be quick about it. In the meantime keep the engine moving in order to slosh the water over the crown-sheet. When you have the front end of the engine up, if water shows in the glass, start the injector and let it run until the boiler is filled to its normal level. If you are unable to get the engine in such a position that the water shows in the glass, cover the fire with a laver of ashes or earth three or four inches thick. THE FEED WATER. , I5 Do not attempt to pull it out, as stirring it up creates intense heat. Having banked the fire, leave the engine alone until the steam goes down. By doing this, you have probably prevented the fusible plug from melting, or, what is vastly more serious, burning the crown-sheet. A crown-sheet that has been burnt is greatly weakened, probably "bagged" or warped, and the stay-bolts so strained at their threads that it is impossible to keep them from leaking. The majority of explosions of boilers of the locomotive type are caused by low water and the consequent burning of the crown-sheet. One experience with low water should be a sufficient lesson for all time. Since so much depends upon having sufficient water in the boiler, the gage-cocks and water-glass, which indicate the amount of water, should be kept in first-class order. The Gage-Cocks. These cocks are a more reliable means of indicating the amount of water in the boiler than the water-glass, although not so convenient. The gage- cocks, or "try-cocks," as they are sometimes called, should be used often enough to prevent them from becoming filled with lime and should always be in working order. When- ever opened, the steam should be allowed to blow through a sufficient time to clean them. They should then be closed moderately tight, and then, if they leak, they should be opened again to allow any dirt or scale that may have lodged on the seat to blow out. It is not well to force a gage-cock or other valve shut to stop it from leaking, for probably it l6 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. is leaking because a bit of scale is preventing the valve from "seating." The forcing simply presses this bit of scale or other foreign matter into the seat and spoils the contact surfaces so the valve will continue to leak until reground. Gage-cocks and other valves on the engine should not be closed very tightly when cold, for when heated, the expan- sion of the metal will press the valve so tightly against its seat as to injure it. The Water-Gage. The water-gage should be blown out once each day, to clean the glass and prevent the upper and lower connections from getting filled with lime or sediment. To blow out the lower connection, which is the more liable to become clogged, open pet cock and close upper valve. Then close lower valve and open upper one, which will blow steam through the upper connection and also the glass, thereby cleaning it. On returning to the engine in the morning, or after dinner, be sure that no one has closed the valves of the water-gage during your absence. If this has been done, the glass might show plenty of water, while in reality, the water in the boiler has been reduced to a low level by blowing off or by some other cause. A stoppage in the valves, when the engine is running, can be detected by the water, which will appear quite still instead of moving a little, in consequence of the motion of the engine. The water glass should be kept clean, even if the other parts of the engine be neglected in this respect. A dirty glass indicates that the engineer is careless about one THE FEED WATER. • IJ of his most important duties. The glass can be cleaned at any time by wiping the outside and blowing steam through the inside. It is only necessary, in wiping, to see that it is not scratched by sand or the like, for scratches are likely to cause it to break. An old glass with a coating on the inside that steam will not blow out, may be cleaned by removing it from the connections and running a piece of waste or cloth through it with a stick. Touching a glass on the inside with a piece of metal of any kind is almost sure to scratch it so that it will crack when the steam is turned on. Packing the Watcr-Glass. The best method of packing the water glass is by means of the rubber gaskets made for the purpose. These may be purchased for a few cents. Candle wicking, hemp or asbestos is sometimes used, but any of these packings is liable to become displaced and cause trouble. The author has in mind a case in which a crown sheet was badly burnt on account of the glass not showing the true level of the water in the boiler, because the candle wicking, with which it was packed, was forced, by the tight- ening of the packing-nut, over the lower end of the glass, practically shutting off the water. Broken Water-Glass. In case the water glass breaks when the boiler is under pressure, shut both valves to stop the escape of steam and water. The engine can be run by gage-cocks until a new glass may be obtained. If a new glass be at hand, it may be put in at once, but care should be taken to heat it gradually, for if the steam be turned on suddenly, it will break. l8 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. Injectors. The injector has, of late years, reached such a state of perfection as to make it the most convenient of all the types of boiler feeders. Although economical in itself, it does not equal, in economy, a pump used in connec- tion with a heater. The question naturally arises : if it be economy to use a heater in connection with the pump, why not with the injector as well? Were the feed water from the injector piped through the heater, but little would be gained thereby, because the injector delivers water so hot, that it would absorl) but little additional heat during its passage through the heater. Consequently, the pump, with heater, is the more economical because it utilizes heat from the engine exhaust (which would otherwise be wasted), to heat the water, while the injector heats it by means of live steam taken from the boiler. It is not usual, therefore, to pipe the feed water from an injector through a heater. To Start the ''Penherthy" Injector. With pressure under sixty-five pounds, the valve in the suction pipe should be opened one turn, the steam valve may then be opened wide. The injector will probably start off at once, but should water run from the overflow, the suction valve should be slowly throttled until it "picks up." If hot steam and water issue from the overflow, the suction should be opened wider. A little practice will enable one to set the valve at any pressure, so that it is simply necessary to turn on the steam to start the injector. At a pressure of sixty-five pounds or over, the water supply valve may be opened wide, but it is better partly to close it, as the injector will deliver hotter water THE FEED WATER. 19 STEAia when the supply is throttled. The injector must be regulated by the suction valve, and not by attempting to regulate it by the steam valve. The "Penberthy" admits of considerable steam variation. At thirty-five pounds steam pressure, the valve in suction may be opened as wide as it will stand and steam can rise to over one hundred pounds without further adjusting. JVhat to do zvhcn the Injector Fails to Work. See that the suction hose and connections are tight. The delivery pipe may be "limed up" where it enters the boiler. A leaky check valve will keep the injector so hot as to prevent it from "picking up" water. Dirt may be lodged in the chamber where jets "R" and "S" meet, or in the jet "Y," the drill holes or the m.'^in passage way. The jets may be coated with lime, and if so, they should be soaked in a solution composed of one part of muriatic acid to ten parts of water. Occasionally soak the whole injector. Do not expect an injector to w^ork well, especially at high FIG. 2. pressure, if the tank be full SECTIONAL VIEW OF INJECTOR, of dirt and rubbish. Some- times an injector will work well for a long time, and then begin to drizzle at the overflow under the same pressures 20 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. at which it once worked well. This indicates that the pas- sage-ways in jets are either worn or are contracted with Hme. If removing the hme does not remedy the trouble, the over- flow valve may leak. To regrind it, remove cap *'Z" and spread a little flour of emery, mixed with oil or soap, between the valve 'T" and its seat. Then with a screw driver, turn valve 'T" back and forth, which will grind it to a seat. If the Injector be not improved, it is safe to conclude that some of the jets are worn and must be renewed. These are sold separately, and are listed in threshermen's supply catalogs. If in doubt as to which jet is at fault, procure all of them and try one after another until the injector works properly. Any unused jets may be returned. Independent Pumps. This is the name given to pumps for feeding" a boiler, which are operated independently of the engine. They are, in fact, small engines in themselves, con- nected directly to double-acting pump plungers. An inde- pendent pump can be run whether the engine is running or not, but as the heater is effective only when the engine is running, it is best, on boilers having both pump and injector to use the injector when the engine is not running. The Marsh pump has an exhaust valve for turning the exhaust of the pump in with the feed water. This, of course, heats the feed water and renders the pump more economical. If, for any reason, it is desired to use the pump when the engine is not running, the exhaust should be turned in, to prevent putting cold water into the boiler. At other times, however, THE FEED WATER. 21 we advise engineers to allow the pump to exhaust into tlie air. The most of the trouble with these pumps is due to insufficient lubrication, and the successful operators use plenty of cylinder oil. If the exhaust be turned in at all times, this cylinder oil is carried into the boiler where it accumulates, in some cases in sufficient quantities to render it dangerous to the plates of the boiler. Consequently, for this reason and also because the pump is more easily ''kept up" when exhausting in the air, we do not advise turning the exhaust into the feed water. Starting the ''Marsli' Pump. Before attaching the lubri- cator, it is a good plan to pour some cylinder oil into the pipe. To start the pump, first see that the valve in the feed pipe, between the check valve and the boiler, is open, and that the exhaust lever is thrown towards the steam end of the pump. The steam may now be turned on, and if the piston rod does not move back and forth, tap the starter-pins very lightly. It is well to run the pump without water until thoroughly oiled, but as soon as it is running smoothly, the suction may be opened. Opening the cock with the thread for attaching the sprinkling hose or the smiall air-cock in the water chamber will aid the pump in ''picking up'' water. When the Pump Will Not Start, i. If the pump does not start when steam is turned on, push the starter-pins alternately, to see if the valve moves easily back and forth. If the valve sticks, do not hammiCr the starter-pins or force them too hard, but remove the valve in order to locate the 22 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. trouble. This is done by removing- the steam chest heads through which the starter-pins pass, and unscrewing the valve, which is done by holding one end while unscrewing the other, by means of the two special socket wrenches fur- nished for the purpose. If the pump has been idle for a time, the valve may be rusty or gummy, in which case it should be cleaned with kerosene oil. Before replacing the caps, push the valve back and forth as far as it will go and see that it is perfectly free. Also see that the starter-pins are free and are not stuck by tight packing or have become loosened. Pull them out as far as they will go. 2. The steam pipe may be obstructed so that the pump does not re- ceive a sufficient supply of steam. A screen gasket is placed in the steam pipe union in order to prevent scale or chips, in a newly connected pipe, from reaching the pump. If steam does not reach the pump, this screen should be ex- amJned as it may be partly or entirely clogged. AVhen the pipe has been thoroughly blown out, this screen gasket may be removed and a plain rubber or lead gasket used. 3. Re- move the cylinder heads and see that the piston moves freely, and that the nut on the water end of the piston rod is prop- erly tightened. This nut may have worked partly or entirely of:, thus preventing a complete stroke. 4. Remove the steam chest and see that the small ''trip" holes near the steam chest and the corresponding holes in the steam cylinder are open. If the pump has been idle for a time, these holes are liable to have become stopped with rust. Before THE FEED WATER. 23 replacing the steam chest, see that the packmg Is In good order. 5 If the pump has been in use some time, or has not been sufficiently oiled, the valve may have become worn and leaky. This is not so likely to occur on the "C" size, as on the smaller pumps. When it does happen, the remedy is a new valve and steam chest. Steam End Water End FIG. 3. SECTIONAL VIEW OF MARSH PUMP. When the Pump will not Lift Water. If the pump runs all right when steam is turned on, but will not "pick up" water, opening the drain cock in the boiler feed pipe will relieve the pressure on the discharge valves, i. See that the suction hose and its connections are free from leaks and that the screen is not covered with rags, waste, leaves or the 24 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. like. If this hose has been in use for some time, see that it is sufficiently firm not .to collapse or flatten, and that its rubber lining has not become loosened so as to choke or stop the water supply. 2. Remove the air chamber and look for dirt under the water valves. 3. If the pump has been in use for a time the w^ater-piston packing may leak. Where dirty water is used, this packing must be frequently renewed. Directions for re-packing are given below. JJlicn the Pump almost stops after lifting water, the trouble is in the delivery or feed pipe. Opening the cock in this pipe will relieve the pressure and allow the pump to run faster. Possibly the angle valve near the boiler has been left closed. The check valve in the feed pipe should be examined, for which purpose the angle valve, between it and the boiler, can be closed. If nothing be found, the stem should be removed from this angle valve, and probably the pipe will be found nearly filled with lime at the point at which it enters the boiler. This may be cleaned by driving a bolt into it. Of course, the angle valve stem can only be removed when the boiler is cold. Packing tJie Pump. The successful operation of this pump depends very much upon the manner in which it is packed. In renev/ing the water piston packing, do not com- press the packing too much. It should be reduced, if too thick. When properly packed, the piston may be readily moved by hand. The nut on the end of the piston rod should be tightened to bring the follower to place. The THE FEED WATER. 25 packing between the steam chest and the cylinder should be made of heavy manilla paper or light rubber, and must be patterned from the planed surface top of the steam cylinder, (not the lower part of , the chest), and all holes must be care- fully duplicated, so that the drilled holes at each end are wholly unobstructed at their points of register with the cor- responding holes in the chest. The packing under the valve plate must be patterned from the faced top of water cylin- der, and the packing oz'cr the valve plate from the bottom face of the air chamber. The steam cylinder head must not be packed with anything thicker than heavy paper or the thinnest rubber. If a thick gasket be used, the piston will overrun the ports, and its operation be interfered with. Check-Valves. A check-valve allows the water or other fluid to flow in one direction, by raising the valve from its seat, but when water attempts to "back up," or flow in the opposite direction, the valve prevents this by closing. With any style of boiler-feeder, a check-valve is placed in the feed-pipe, and usual- ly near the boiler. Be- tween the check-valve and boiler Is placed a globe or angle valve which may be closed, allowing the check valve to be opened FIG. 4, SECTIONAL VIEW OF CHECK-VALVE. 26 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. when the boiler is under steam pressure. If the pump or injector shows, by heat or other indications, that water and steam are "backing- up" through the feed pipes from the boiler, it indicates that the check-valve is not actin VALVfi STcrt ' d^Lill. LLSjLL. FIG. 19. FACE OF VALVE. tely comes opposite the two ports leading to the ends of the small or high pressure cylinder. The valve in mov- ing also alternately uncovers these ports, allowing the high- pressure cvlinder to exhaust into the steam chest. The low- pressure cylin- der receives the steam from the s t e a m chest, and exhausts, (through the heater), into the stack, i n exactly the same manner as a simple engine. The valve is "balanced" because high-pressure steam is under and tending to lift it, while the low-pressure steam is on top, and pressing it against its seat. When the engine is running with a light load, the pressure is sometimes insufficient to hold the valve against its seat, in Vvdiich case a loud clattering noise is made by the valve as it raises from and returns to FIG. 20. its seat. To prevent this, SHOWING PIPE TO STi' AM PLUGS, two stcam plugs are placed 66 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. in the chambered steam-chest cover, so that, when the vah'e in the sniah steam pipe connecting this chamber with the main steam-pipe is open, the hve steam pressure against the phifi^s holds the valve against its seat. To Take Apart the Coinponnd Cylinder. To take out the pistons for rcnevv^ing the piston-rings or for other pur- poses, first unbolt and remove the high-pressure cylinder. Then loosen the jam-nut and unscrew the rod from the cross-head by turning tlie pistons. The rod with the two pistons and the center-head may now be pulled out. In replacing the cylinder, loosen the three, (or four), set-screws, which hold the center-head in position, and after the high- pressure cylinder is bolted in place, tighten them up in order to hold the center-head in position and prevent leakage. If the asbestos gasket has been injured.it will be necessary to put in a new one. Center-Head Packing. Leakage around tlie rod, between the two cylinders, is prevented by metallic packing, which wall, with sufficient lubrication, remain tight during the life of the engine. The accompanying cuts show a side and a sectional view of the. metallic pis- ton-rod packing which is located FIG. 21. THE CENTER-HEAD PACKING, in the ceuter-head THE ENGINE i'ROPER. 6y between the high- and low-pressure cyhnders. In the side view, the rings G and B are removed. The center-head is represented by A. The iron-packing rings D and E are each in three parts or segments and are held in their proper places by the spring C. These segments of rings are so placed that they "break joints," as can readily be seen from the side ele- vation. They are held in position, relative to each other, by the dowel pin, H. These packing rings are held in place by the ring B, and also by tlie ring G, which is fastened to the head with three cap-screws, F. The head is held in its posi- tion between the cylinders by set-screws, as can readily be seen from cut on page 64. To Test the Center-Head Packing, set the reverse lever fcf, say, the threshing motion and turn the engine in the direction in which it would run, just past the crank-end dead-center. Block the cross-head so that the crank-shaft cannot revolve, disconnect the cylinder-cock rod, and open the throttle. This will admit steam on the crank-end of the high pressure cylinder, and if the cylinder-cock on the head- end of the low-pressure cylinder blov/s steam when opened, it can* come only from leakage of the metallic packing in the center-head. 68 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. m w ;> O o w 01 0^ o CHAPTER VII. THE \AL\'E-GEAR. I^HE mechanism that operates the vah/e of an engine is known as the "valve-gear." On stationary or portable engines, which are only required to run in one direction, the valve gear consists simply of an eccentric on the crank shaft, (to which the valve stem is connected by means of the eccentric-rod), and a guide to keep the valve-stem in alignment. As trac- tion engines must be run in both directions, a reversing valve gear is required, which necessarily renders the valve gear more complicated. There have been numerous mechanisms invented for this purpose, but most traction engines are equipped with either the *'link" or the Woolf reverse, as these are almost the only ones that have withstood the test of time. It is apparent, that, in order to use steam econom- ically, it must be allowed to pass in and out of the cylinder at precisely the right moments, and during certain intervals. Consequently, the economy of a steam engine depends almost entirely upon the valve-gear, wdiich should, therefore, be kept in good repair. The ease with which the valve is moved, depends largely upon its lubrication. If the valve be allowed 69 yO SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL TilRESIIINC to run dry, the valve gear is subjected to an immense amount of unnecessary work, which soon wears it, so that the valve does not move as it should, and the engine becomes wasteful in its use of steam. The valve should be well lubricated at all times, the wearing parts of the valve-gear should be oiled frequently and every precaution taken to keep the valve- gear in first class condition. The wear should be taken up as fast as it appears so that the parts are not allowed to pound. The IVooIf Vah'e-Gear. The Woolf valve-gear possesses advantages over the other devices used for reversing trac- tion engines, which entitle it to rank as the most popular and satisfactory means for this purpose known at the present time. It is very simple, consisting of a single eccentric, the "strap" of which is extended to form an arm ; to the end of this arm is pivoted a block, which slides in a guide con- nected to the hand lever and pivoted in such a way that the angle of the block's path depends upon the position of the hand lever ; the eccentric rod transmits the motion from the eccentric arm, (to v/hich it is connected), to the valve stem through a rocker arm or guided "slide." It will be seen that the angle of the "block guide" determines the amount of travel of the valve. By placing the reverse lever at or near tlie center of the quadrant, the reverse gear acts as an efficient brake in controlling the engine when descending hills, or at any time when it is desirable to suddenly check the. speed of the engine. This reverse allows of "hooking ^ THE VALVE-GEAR. 7 1 Up," that is, placing the lever in notches between the end and center of the quadrant. In these positions, the valve travel is reduced and the points of "cut-oft" made earlier, which, of course, lessens the amount of steam required. It is, therefore, economy to run the engine "hooked up" when- ever its load will allow. Provision is made for taking up lost motion in the parts subjected to wear. All the joints should be kept well oiled, but the only parts which require frequent attention in this respect, are the eccentric and the sliding block. When the valve is sufficiently lubricated, and the valve-gear is properly oiled and adjusted, the reverse lever is easily handled, when under a full head of steam. Caution Against Disturbing the Valve Setting. It so often happens that an expert, when called to an engine, finds that the valve has been re-set after the engine left the factory, that it seems best, at this point, to say a few words of cau- tion against disturbing the valve of a new engine. Let us advise you not to jump to the conclusion that your valve is incorrectly constructed or improperly set. Rem.ember that the engine has been designed and built by experienced men, thoroughly competent to make it all that it should be. Re- m.ember, too, that the engine has been tested at the factory, in the belt and on the road with heavy loads, within sight and hearing of a dozen men, whose long experience has made them so critical that they could not fail to detect any- thing wrong in the engine's performance. Let us add that in nine cases out of ten, where an expert is called to re-set 72 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. a valve, he finds that it has been disturbed since it left the testing room. Do not, then, conclude that your valve is ''off/' until you have carefully investigated whatever trouble there may be. There are men in nearly every locality throughout the country, v\ho are confident that they themselves know more about setting valves than do the manufac- turers. These men affirm that whatever trouble they may have is due to the working of the valve, and, when no im- provement is shown after they have re-set it, they say that the valve-gear was not properly constructed and designed originally. If they had carefully investigated the trouble before disturbing the valve, they would have discovered the real cause, due probably to either insufficient cylinder and valve lubrication, or to a priming tendency of the boiler. The causes of, and the remedies for these difficulties are dis- cussed elsewhere in this book. Finding the "Dead Centers." An engine is on its ''dead- center" when a line drawn through the center of the piston- rod v/ill pass through the center of the crank-pin. There are two, the "crank" dead-center, when the piston is at the end of the cylinder nearest the crank-shaft, and the "head" dead-center, when the piston is at the opposite end. An engine is said to be running- "over" when the top of rim of f^y-wheel runs away from the cylinder and running "under" when the top of rim of fly-wheel runs towards the cylinder. "Case" engines are marked for finding the dead- TP11-: VAL\'E-GEAR. 73 centers at the factory, and by applying one of the company's trams, as indicated in Fig-. 22, they may be readily placed on either dead-center. It may be necessary to scrape ofif the paint to find the prick-punch marks on the frame and on the crank-disc. The tram shown in the illus- tration measures eight and three-sixteenths inches be- tween the points, which size FIG. 23. TRAM ON DISC. has been used by the "Case" company for many years. It will be seen that a "Case" en- gine may be put on its dead centers by using a pair of divid- ers set to this distance, but they do not serve the purpose as well as the tram. The following- method of finding the dead centers is the one used at the factory, and is generally used on all styles of engines. To put it into use, first take up all lost motion in the connecting'-rod brasses, crank-shaft bear- ing and cross-head shoes. Then turn the engine until the piston lacks an inch or so of completing its stroke. Make a prick-punch mark at any convenient place on the cross- head (see Fig. 24), Insert one point of the tram in the mark and with the other point, make a scratch on the engine frame to locate a second prick-punch mark. The tram points should now measure the exact distance between the two marks and when applied should be nearly paraPel to 'lie 74 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. piston-rod, as shown in Fig. 23. In the same manner, a mark should be made at any convenient place on the frame near the crank-disc, a scratch made on the disc, (which should come across the face of the disc), and a light prick- punch mark made on the disc, so that the tram measures the exact distance between the marks, as shown in Fig. 22. Next, turn the engine until the cross-head comes back to the same place, but with the crank- -JJT ^ _ ^_^. — ^-^ pin on the other side of the dead-center, holding^ the tram FIG. 24. ^ TRAM ON CROSS-HEAD. with ouc point in the mark on the frame, near the guides, and the other so that it will drop into the cross-head prick-punch mark when it comes to the right place. Next, place one leg of the tram in the other mark on the frame and make a scratch on the disc as before, to locate the second mark on the rim of the crank-disc. When this is done, find the mid-point between the two marks (which are temporary), on the disc, with a pair of dividers, mark it clearly, and then destroy the two original marks. The other dead-center is found in the same manner. Now when the crank-disc is turned around until the tram point drops into one of the marks on it, the engine will be on either of its dead-centers. With engines, on which the crank-disc is not easily reached, the prick-punch marks for the tram are usually located on the fly-wheel rim. They were so placed on "Case" center-crank engines. THE VAI,VE-GEAR. 75 In placing the engine on its dead-centers, in examining the valve setting, or in setting the valve, it should always be turned in the direction indicated by the reverse lever, that is, if the reverse lever is in the forward end of the quadrant, the engine should be turned ''under," or in the direction in which it runs when threshing. If turned past the mark, it should be turned the opposite way and again brought to the mark, moving in the right direction. This eliminates any error due to lost motion. To Determine if the Valve Setting has been Disturbed. New engines have their valves set at the factory before being painted, so that broken paint often reveals the fact that some- one has re-set the valve. Besides this indication, "Case" engines are provided with marks, by means of which, one can determine whether or not the valve setting has been dis- turbed since the engine left the factory and, if it has been disturbed, furnish the means to bring it back to the original setting without removing the steam chest cover. The eccen- tric hub and the shaft are marked, as with a sharp cold chisel, so that the marks meet when the eccentric is in its proper position. V/hen one suspects that the eccentric has slipped from its original position, an examination of these marks will show whether it has or has not. If it has slipped, the trouble may be corrected by loosening the set-screws and rotating it around the shaft until the marks correspond. An eccentric is liable to slip when it becomes hot from run- ning without oil and this tendency in such cases is sometimes 76 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. strong" enough to shear off the points of the set screws which secure the eccentric. Besides the marks on the eccentric, there are marks on the valve-stem and its stufFmg-box, in order to make apparent any change in the length of the valve-rod or the eccentric- rod. To use these marks, however, one should have one of the Company's valve-rod trams. This is shorter than the one used on the crank-disc and measures exactly four and three- sixteenths inches between points. It is used as shown in Fig. 24. There are two marks on the valve-stem and they should be on top. When the reverse lever is at the rear end of the quadrant, (i. e., the road motion), and the engine is placed on one of its dead cen- ters, the valve-rod tram should drop into one of the marks, and when the engine is placed on its other dead-center, the tram should drop into the other mark. If the tram points do not drop into the marks, the eccentric rod should be adjusted as to length until they do or else the valve nnist be entirely re-set as explained below. Setting the Valve on Engines zvrtk Woolf Reverse. After having taken up all the lost motion on the valve-gear, main- bearings, crank-pin and cross-head pin and shoes, and being provided with the tram for placing the engine on its dead- centers, as explained, proceed to set the valve as follows : FIG. 25. TRAM ON VALVE-STEM. THE VAL\'E-GEAK. 'J'J First. See that the *'reach-rod" from the "reverse-lever*' to the ''block-guide" is of such length that the valve moves the same distance during a revolution of the fly-wheel in one direction as for a revolution in the opposite direction, with the reverse-lever in the end notch of the quadrant in both cases. The entire distance the valve moves, which is called the 'Valve travel," may be conveniently measured on the valve stem by the tram, as illustrated in Fig. 24. To do this hold one of the tram points in the punch-mark on the stuffing-box and, with the other, make scratches across the rod as the fly-wheel is slowly revolved. If the "valve travel" be more for one motion than for the other, it shows that the reach-rod is either too long or too short to give the proper angularity to the block-guide, which angularity deter- mines the travel of the valve. This rod can be easily ad- justed to the correct length by taking the pin out of the lever and turning the forked head of the rod until the required length is obtained. The jam-nut should then be tightened to prevent lost motion. Second. See that the eccentric is in the proper position, which is, with it's point of greatest throw nearly opposite the engine crank-pin. The movement of the valve in throw- ing the lever from one end notch to the other end notch of the quadrant, with the engine on its dead-center, is called the "slip." When the eccentric is properly located, the slip will be the same for "head" dead-center as for "crank" dead- center. The "slip" must not only be alike in amount, but yS SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. must also be in the same direction as that in which the lever is moved, in both cases. If the ''slip" be zvith the lever for one dead-center, and against it for the other, the eccentric is not in the correct position, and should be rotated slightly on the shaft, imtil the ''slip" is in the same direction as that in which the lever is moved, for both dead-centers. If it be impossible to get this, the pedestal is not the right height, as explained in the following paragraph. In setting the eccentric, one set-screw will hold it in place temporarily. Third. See that the pedestal is the correct height. The amount of "slip" indicates this, and if it be one-sixteenth for both dead-centers, and in the same direction as that in which the lever is moved, the pedestal is the proper height. If the pedestal be too high, the "slip" of the valve will be more than one-sixteenth, and if too low, it will be less, or if very low, the valve stem will move in the opposite directiorr to that in which the reverse lever is moved. The pedestal may be raised, by placing "shims" of sheet-iron between it and the frame at the place where it is bolted, and lowered, by removing the shims. If there be none, the pedestal must be taken to a machine-shop and planed off in order to lower it. Fourth. When you know that the reach-rod is the correct length ; that the eccentric is in the proper position, and that the pedestal is the correct height, give the yilve three-thirty-seconds of an inch "lead" on the crank-end for the threshing-motion. The "slip" of the valve, in throwing THE VALVE-GEAR. 79 the lever over to the road motion, will reduce this lead by one-sixteenth, so that the leads will be nearly alike for the road-motion. The "lead" should be obtained by adjusting the length of the eccentric-rod, allowing the nuts on the valve-stem to remain undisturbed. If the nuts on valve- stem be loosened, the '*draw-block" is liable to be tilted so that the valve cannot leave its seat when necessary to let water out of cylinder. It is best, after setting the valve, to go all over it again from the beginning, and if all be found correct, the eccentric may be set permanently by tightening both set-screws. These are counter-sunk into the shaft, and if necessary, the depres- sions may be changed by sliding the eccentric-hub to one side, (after having* removed the eccentric-strap), and chip- ping them out with a round-nose chisel so that the deepest part is in the required position for the set-screw. The eccen- tric-hub and shaft should be marked, (as is done at the fac- tory), with a cold-chisel, so that should the eccentric slip, the slippage can be discovered and the eccentric readily re-set. In any style of valve-gear the ''lead'' is changed by rotat- ing the eccentric around the shaft. It will be seen that the Woolf reverse, having but one eccentric cannot be adjusted to change the lead, because if the lead be increased for engine running ''over,'* it will be decreased for engine running "under," and vice versa. There is therefore but one position for the eccentric. This is determined at the factory, and on 80 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. ''Case'" engines built since 1898 the main sliaft is counter- sunk for the set screws. Even Cut-offs. The above is the method used in setting the valve on nine, twelve, fifteen, twenty and twenty-five horse-power **Case" traction engines at the factory, and brake and indicator tests show that these engines, with their valves so set, easily develop three times their rated horse-power, and are very economical. It will be seen that this method of set- ting the valve gives unequal ''leads" for the threshing-motion, there being three-thirty-seconds of an inch on the crank-end and no lead on the head-end. The points of cut-off, however, will be ''even/' that is, alike on both ends, for both road and threshing-motions. Were it desirable to set the valve with equal "leads," it could be done by making the pedestal of such a height that there would be no "slip." In this case, the points of cut-off would not be even, and one end of the cylinder would do more work than the other. For this, and other reasons, this method is not recommended. Setting the Valve on Compounds. The valve of the Woolf-compound cylinder is set in exactly the same manner as that of a simple engine, the part of valve covering low- pressure ports only, being considered. Setting a Valve zvith Link Rez'erse. After having taken up all the lost motion, as explained, the first thing to do, in setting the valve on an engine equipped with the "link" re- verse, is to find the correct length of the eccentric-rods. To do this, take ofif the steam-chest cover and place the reverse THE VALVE-GEAR. 8l lever in the last notch at either end of the quadrant. Now, with a scratch-awl having a very fine point, make scratches on the valve seat, showing the extreme position of the valve at each end of its travel as the fly-v/heel is revolved. Meas- ure from the marks to the outside edges of the steam ports, and, if there be any difference, divide it up by lengthening or shortening the eccentric-rod, that is for the time being, moving the valve. The length of the other rod is found in the same way. the reverse-lever being at the opposite end of the quadrant. If the engine be marked and you have the 'Hram" for placing it on the centers, as already explained, proceed to set the valve as follows : After the lengths of the eccentric-rods are correctly adjusted, according to the method already given, place the engine on one of its dead- centers, say, the head oric, and set the reverse lever in the last notch at either end of the quadrant. The valve should now be in such a position that the port leading to the head end of the cylinder should show a "lead" equal to the thick- ness of an ordinary playing card. The amount of lead may be varied by rotating the eccentric hub around the shaft. Rotating it in the direction in which the engine is to run increases the lead and moving it in the opposite direc- tion decreases the lead. When you have obtained the desired lead, place the engine on the other dead center and see if the lead be the same. If it be not, the valve-stem should be lengthened or shortened, (by means of adjusting nuts), until it is the same. If, after dividinjr the lead, there be too 82 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. much or too little, rotate the eccentric hub on the shaft, until the required lead is obtained at both ends. The valve is now set for the engine running either "over" or ''under," accord- ing to the end of the quadrant at v^^hich the reverse lever was set. The reverse-lever may now be placed in the other end of the quadrant and the valve set for the other motion. This is done in the same manner, except that the dividing of the lead must now be done on the eccentric-rod instead of the valve-stem, so that the first setting will not be disturbed. When this is done, try the other motion again, so that when you are through, you know that the lead is the same for both dead-centers for the engine running either over or under. The draw-block should be examined to insure its not beinp" so tipped as to prevent the valve from raising from its seat when necessary to let water out of the cylinder. With the link reverse, the lead can be as much or as little as desired and need not be the same for both motions. How- ever, lead equal to the thickness of a playing card will give the best results for this class of engines. CHAPTER VIII. THE BOILER. HE function of the boiler is to heat water sufficiently to change it into steam, for use in an engine, or for other purposes. The supply of water for the boiler has been treated under "The Feed Water" in Chap- ter II, and the management of the fire with various fuels under "Firing" in Chapter III. Temperature of Water and Steam in a Boiler. Although water boils in an open vessel at 212 degrees Fahrenheit, if it be confined, a pressure will be developed, which will pre- vent it from boiling until a higher temperature is reached. A certain relation exists between the pressure and tempera- ture of the steam in a boiler and for any given pressure there is a corresponding temperature. Thus, for a pressure of 50 lbs., the temperature is 267 degrees, for 100 lbs. pressure the the temperature is 337 degrees, and for 125 lbs. pressure, the temperature is 352 degrees. The temperature in the firebox is, of course, many times greater. Boiler Fittings. The fittings necessary for the operation of a boiler, are the feeder, (for supplying the water), glass gage and gage cocks, (for indicating the water level), a steam gage, (for indicating the pressure), a pop or safety 83 84 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. Q O O O J < o o Pi o in H I— I o o w o H w d I— i ONiNBdo yooa 3iiij il3XyA\ T\\\l !;;)ILER. 85 valve, (to prevent the pressure from reaching a dangerous height), and a "blow-off" valve, (for draining the boiler). A boiler is usually fitted also v/ith a whistle for signaling, and a blower for forcing the draft. The water feeders, water glass and gage cocks have been treated under the "Feed AA^ater" in Chapter II. TJic Sfcani Gage. The steam gage indicates the steam pressure in the boiler in pounds per square inch. The cut shows the interior of the gage used on Case engines. The curved tube or Bourdon spring has an oval cross section, and when exposed to pressure i-TG. 27. INTERIOR OF GAGE, fj-^j^-, ^|-j^ lusidc, tcuds to Straight- en, as a hose will do v/hen under w'ater pressure. The free end of the Bourdon tube is connected to the pointer by means of a segment lever and pinion so that the pointer, wdiich is on the same shaft as the pinion, revolves, indicating on the dial the pressure on the inside of the tube, which is the same as that in the boiler. In order to prevent the temper of the tube from being injured by hot steam, a siphon, whicli con- denses the steam and keeps the tube filled with water, is placed between the gage and the boiler. The sectional view of the siphon shows a loose cap over the pipe, which extends into the i?-lobe chamber ; this deflects the 86 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL TIIRESIIING. FIG. 28. SECTION OF SIPHON." entering steam, to the bottom, where it condenses in the chamber, and thus effectually prevents any live steam from reaching the spring of the gage. The cap over the pipe falls when the pressure is removed, making a siphon, which is self-emptying, and thus all danger of bursting by frost is over- come. The cock should always be left open. The Pop Safety Valve. The safety valve opens when the pressure reaches a certain point, allowing the excess steam to escape and closes when the pressure has been reduced a few pounds. The valves are usually set at the factory to blow off at, one hundred and thirty pounds. If a change of pressure be de- sired, unscrew the jam nut at the top and apply the key, provided for this purpose, to the pressure screw. For more pressure, screw down ; for less, unscrew. After having obtained the desired pressure, FIG. 29. SECTIONAL VIEW OF POP VALVE, scrcw the jam nut down tight THE BOILER. 87 on the pressure screw. To regulate the opening and closing action of the valve, take the pointed end of a file and apply it to the teeth of the regulator. If the valve closes with too much loss of boiler pressure, move the regulator to the right. This can be done when the valve is at the point of blowing off. Tlic Blower. The blow^er consists simply of a pipe leading from the boiler to a nozzle in the smoke-stack. In the pipe is a valve for shutting oft' the steam. On traction engines, a rod is fitted to this valve, allowing it to be oper- ated from the platform. The blower is intended for use only in raising steam, when the engine is not running. When the engine is running, its exhaust is discharged into the smoke-stack, creating what is known as "forced" draft, as distinguished from "natural" draft, which is due only to the height of the chimney. When an engine has been running and is temporarily shut down the blower should not be used unless the entire grate surface is covered with burning fuel. If the blower be used soon after shutting down and the grates are not entirely covered with burning fuel, cold air will pass through the dead places in the grates direct to the tubes, cooling them suddenly and rendering them liable to leak. Foaming. When a boiler is "foaming," the water in the glass appears roily and the level changes rapidly, the glass appearing full one moment and nearly empty the next. Dirty water is usually the cause of foaming, alkali, or soap in any quantities being especially bad. No one should be allowed 88 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. to wash in the tank, as even a small quantity of soap is liable to cause trouble. On account of the soap used in manufac- ture, new boilers are liable to foam until they are washed out two or three times. It is difficult to tell exactly how much water there is in a foaming boiler, but it is probable that some of it is being drawn over with the steam, and therefore, the pump should feed more than the usual amount. Do not run too long with a foaming boiler, but close the throttle occasionally to see how full the boiler is when the water settles. The remedy for foaming is to keep the boiler clean and to use clean water. Foaming often causes priming. Foaming and priming are more apt to occur v/ith lovv^ than with high steam pressure. Priming. When water is drawn over into the cylinder with the steam, the engine is said to ''prime." A priming engine appears to be working very hard, exhausting heav- ily, throwing water from the stack and often making a loud knocking or pounding noise in the cylinder. Priming may be caused by : i . Too much water in the boiler. 2. Too low steam pressure. 3. Engine working hard with the front of the boiler low. 4. Boiler working beyond its capacity. 5. Foaming. 6. Piston rings or valve leaking. 7. Valve improperly set. In case the engine should begin to prime, the cylinder cocks should be opened and the throttle partially closed, so that the engine runs quite slowly, until dry steam comes from the cylinder cocks. Priming is liable to knock out a cylinder head, break the piston head, or do other serious THE BOILER. 89 damage to the engine. It always washes the oil from the C) linder and valve, thereby causing the latter to squeak. The lubricator or oil pump should be allowed to feed quite freely after priming, or serious injury to the valve-gear may result Painting the Boiler. The greater part of the boiler can be kept black and looking well by rubbing with oily waste or rags. The front end of the boiler, around the smoke-box, and the smoke-stack require painting from time to time to prevent them from becoming rusty and unsightly. For this, asphaltum or boiled linseed oil mixed v/ith a little lamp black, is suitable. The entire boiler may also be painted with either of these when necessary. Cleaning the Boiler. No rule can be given as to the fre- quency with wliich a boiler should be washed out. In some localities it is necessary to clean it twice a week, while in others, where the water is almost perfectly clean and pure, once in six weeks is sufficient. In emptying the boiler pre- paratory to cleaning, be sure that all of the fire is out, and that the steam pressure is below ten pounds before opening the blow-oit valve. This is necessary, in order to prevent the mud from becoming baked on the tubes and sheets. See that the fire door, smoke-box door and drafts are all closed to pre- vent the boiler from cooling too quickly. To clean the boiler, remove the plugs or hand-hole plates in the water-leg and also the one at the bottom of the front tube-sheet. Wash the boiler thoroughly with a hose, using as much pressure as possible. Most of the sediment will be found around the "water-leg" and along the bottom of the barrel. 90 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. Packing Hand Hole Plates. After the boiler has been cleaned, the hand-holes must be re-packed, for it seldom hap- pens that a gasket can be used the second time. Gaskets, for re-packing, may be purchased, cut ready for use, or they may be cut from sheet rubber packing by the engineer. Other substances, such as sheet asbestos, card-board, straw-board, or rubber belting are sometimes used, but the most satis- factory material for this purpose is two-ply sheet rubber, which is about one-eighth of an inch thick. The gasket should be cut so as to fit closely around the flange on the plate, and should lie flat. The gasket for the bolt head may be made from the piece cut from the center of the larger gasket. Before the hand-hole plate is replaced, the nut should be oiled and screwed back and forth the whole length of the thread on the bolt, using a wrench if necessary, until it may be easily turned with the fingers. The inside of the boiler plate and the face of the hand-hole plate, where the packing touches, should be scraped as clean and smooth as possible. Care must be taken in inserting the plate, to pre- vent displacing the gasket. When the hand-hole plate is in place, the nut should not be screwed down too tightly, when the engine is cold, as the gasket may be injured so that it would not stand steam pressure. It is best to screw up the nut only moderately tight when cold, and turn it up a little more with a wrench when steam begins to show on the gage, and then a little more from time to time until the steam gage shows working pressure. In this way, the rubber has THE BOILER. 9 1 a chance to soften with the heat and adapt itself to the iron surfaces. Cleaning the Tubes. The tubes should be cleaned at least once each day, whether in burning coal, wood or straw. The tube scraper is adjustable, and may be set out while in the tube by turning the rod to the right. Turning the rod to the left decreases the size of the scraper. Soot is a very poor conductor of heat, and even a thin coating of it affects the efficiency of the boiler to a considerable extent. It is therefore, essential to keep the scraper well set out. so that all the soot will be removed. Expanding and Beading the Tubes. Leaky tubes should be fixed the first time the engine cools. When the steam no longer shows on the gage, remove the ash-pan bottom and grates ; also the bricks, if the engine be a straw burner. If the leaks be only slight ones, they may be stopped by simply using a beading tool. To do this clean the end of the tube and the tube sheet and place the long or guiding end of the tool within the tube. Use a small hammer, and with light blows bead the tube all around, moving the tool slightly at each blow. The beading tool may be used when there is water in the boiler, but care must be taken to use only very light blov/s of the hammer or the concussion will be trans- mitted by the water and loosen other tubes. Having water in the boiler when beading the tubes has the advantage of showing the leaks so that it may be known when the tube is tight. If the leaks be m.ore serious, it will be necessary to C)2 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL 'rilRESUING. use an expander. The expander requires considerable care and some experience to use, and in the hands of an inexper- ienced or careless workman, may cause great damage to the boiler by distorting the flue sheet, or rolling the tubes thin and worthless. In using the roller expander, place the flange against the tube sheet and drive the pin in with a few light blows. Then turn it back and forth with a wrench until it loosens. Drive the pin in again, and repeat the operation several times. The roller expander may be used when there is water in the boiler. If a spring or plug expander be used, be sure that it is the right size, and is made to fit the thick- ness of the flue sheet in your boiler. This is very important. To use the spring expander, place it within the tube with the shoulder well up against the tube sheet. Drive in the taper pin with a few light blovv^s and then jar it out by striking it on the side. Repeat several times, turning the expander a little each time, until it has made a complete revolution. The spring expander cannot be used Vv^hen there is water in the boiler, as the jar of the hammer-blows will be transmitted to the other tubes and loosen them. Use plenty of oil on either style of expander, and carefully clean the end of the tube of soot and scale before inserting the tool. Care must be taken, in expanding the tubes, not to expand them so liard as to stretch or enlarge the hole in the tube sheet, and thereby loosen the adjoining tubes. When all of the leaky tubes have been expanded, they must be beaded down against the sheet with the beading tool. THE r.OTT.ER. 93 Danger of Using an Old Boiler. There is clanger of a boiler exploding- with plenty of water in it, if any part has corroded or been weakened so that a considerable portion of it is liable to give way at any time. The water in a steam boiler under pressure, is explosive, and anything that reduces the pressure suddenly, will precipi- tate an explosion. Return flue boilers are especially dan- perous when old, on account of the large flue. Testing a Boiler. To test an old boiler is not an easy matter. We advise makinq; the "cold water test" as follows : Fill the boiler nearly full of water and build a fire to heat the water luke warm. When this is done, withdraw the fire, fill the boiler to the top of the dome and attach a small hand pump. The steam gage Vv^ill register the pressure, which may be anything desired. The chill is taken off the water as the boiler is less liable to be strained when the iron is a little warm. The boiler may be tested with a hammer, but when coated with scale, this is not easy, even for an expert. The best way to test it is to go over the boiler with a straight-edge, carefully noting hov/ much the sheets are out of shape. This should be done first with no pressure, then repeating, increasing the pressure with the pump about twenty-five pounds at a time. On a locomotive boiler, the straight edge should be placed between the stay bolts. The parts exposed to the greatest heat should be examined par- ticularly, as should also the bottom of the shell and along the riveted seams, where it is liable to be corroded. If there be any doubt about any part, or if the straight-edge 94 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. shows that the sheets spring or bulge with the pressure, the only way to be sure is to drill a small hole and determine the thickness. If found to be safe, the hole may be made tight by tapping and screwing in a copper plug. Another Method. A boiler may be tested without using a pump. In this case the boiler is filled with water to the very top of the dome before the fire is built, and the expansion of the water, as it increases in temperature, gives the desired pressure for testing. The boiler may be filled by removing the whistle or the pop-valve and pouring the water through its pipe. The throttle and all of the openings from the boiler must be closed before the fire is built. Straw should be used as fuel, as a fire of it may be quickly checked. When other fuel, such as pine kindling wood is used, very little should be allowed in the fire-box, and the fire carefully watched. Enough dirt, sand or a?hes should be at hand to check the fire at any instant. The pressure must be closely watched, and if it shows a tendency to rise too rapidly, or go too high, the fire must be covered. The pop-valve will open at the point at which it is set, in the same way as for steam pressure. Amount of Pressure. An old boiler should not be tested at a greater pressure than one hundred and fifty pounds, as higher ones are apt to strain and weaken the boiler. When a boiler has been tested at one hundred and fifty pounds cold water pressure, it m.ay be used at a working pressure of one hundred and twenty-five pounds. CHAPTER IX. THE TRACTION GEARING. HEN the traction gearing is used only in moving the engine from place to place, very little attention need be given to it. When, however, the engine is used for plowing or for hauling freight, the gearing must receive careful attention in order to prevent the pos- sibility of expensive repairs. The parts which require special attention on engines used for hauling heavy loads are the lower cannon bearing and the stud on which the intermediate gear runs. The pinions on the counter-shaft should mesh properly with the gears on the traction wheels. These may be set deeper into mesh on "Case" engines by adjusting the turn-buckles in the links, called "distance links," which connect the upper and lower cannon bearings. The springs which carry the weight of the boiler should not have too much leeway if the engine be used for heavy hauling. Oiling the Cannon Bearings. A quantity of oil may be poured into the upper and lower cannon bearings, which will insure the lubrication of the axle and counter-shaft, since it can only work out at the ends. The oil boxes should be partly filled with wool or waste, and all other 95 96 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. openings stopped by carefully fitted pieces of wood, in order to prevent sand and other gritty substances from enter- ing the cannon bearings. Greasing the Gearing. The gearing should be kept well coated with axle grease. It is true that many men argue FIG. 30. CUT SHOWING Cx^NNON BEARINGS AND GEARING. that grease collects and holds sand which will cause cutting of gears. To prove the fallacy of this belief, however, it is only necessary to observe the gearing on engines which have been run by men of this opinion. In many cases, the gearing- will be found more badly worn than its use would warrant. The Friction Clutch. The friction clutch is used to con- nect the engine to the traction gearing and wheels. By means of it, the engine may be made to travel as slowly as desired, while the engine proper is running at full speed. When the clutch is in partial engagement, the shoes, (A), THE TRACTION GEARING. 97 (Fig. 30), press lightly against the rim of the fly-wheel, transmitting only part of its motion to the gearing. But when in full engagement, the shoes press so hard against the rim of the fly-wheel that they prevent slipping, thus locking the fly- wheel and pinion, (C), together. The two shoes are hinged to the ends of the arm, (B). This arm has a long sleeve, which is loose upon the shaft, but at the end of which the pinion, (C), is firmly keyed. The sliding ring, (D), (Fig. 31), is loose upon the sleeve, and when moved toward the fly- wheel, straightens the toggle levers, thus pressing the shoes against the rim of the fly- wheel. The sliding ring is moved by means of the trun- nion ring, (E), which re- mains stationary, but allows the sliding ring to revolve within it. The trunnion ring is held to the sliding ring by means of the clamp ring, (F). Adjusting the Clutch. The wear on the shoes is taken up by means of the turn-buckles in the toggle levers. They should be so ad- justed that the toggle levers will just pass the straight line when the clutch is in engagement, thus relieving the trunnion ring of all side friction ; they should also be so adjusted as FIG. 31. FRICTION CLUTCH. 98 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. to produce equal tension on both shoes, or undue friction will be produced on the sliding- ring making the lever bard to handle. A good way to adjust the turnbuckles is to apply a large wrench to them, when the clutch is in engagement, and lengthen the toggle levers until the shoes are pressed hard against the rim. In this manner, the shoes can be given equal and sufficient pressure and when the clutch is drawn out of engagement, the shoes will clear the rim. Of course, the jam-nuts must be loosened before adjusting and tight- ened afterwards. The inside end of the fly-wheel hub should touch the end of the clutch sleeve, or the sliding ring cannot carry the toggle levers beyond the straight line. The wooden shoes are easily replaced when worn out. Examine the clutch and see that it is properly adjusted be- fore starting up or down a very steep hill. If it be in good order, it will not fail to do its work. Oiling the Clutch. When the engine is traveling the entire clutch moves together with the exception of the trunnion- ring. This, then, should be oiled when the engine is on the road. When threshing, the clutch remains stationary, while the shaft revolves within it. The long sleeve should then be oiled and also the end of the fly-wheel hub wbere it comes in contact with the end of the sleeve. There are FIG. 32. SECTION OF CLUTCH-ARM AND RINGS. THE TRACTION GEARING. 99 eight or nine oil-holes in the sleeve, three of which are drilled between the teeth of the pinion. There is also an oil-hole in the upper trunnion of the trunnion-ring. FIG. 33. REAR VIEW OF ''"cASE" TRACTION ENGINE. The Differential Gear. In order to have both traction wheels pull, when the engine is traveling either forward or backward, and at the same time allow one wheel to travel further than the other in turning corners, the differential gear is necessary. It transmits the power from the intermediate g^ar to the two counter-shaft pinions, which mesh with the lOO SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. Spur gears on the traction wheels. The four bevel pinions are carried by the center casting, and mesh with two bevel gears, one of which is cast in one piece with the right-hand counter-shaft pinion, (which is loose upon the shaft), and the other of which is keyed to the counter-shaft and drives the left-hand counter-shaft pinion, (which is also keyed to the shaft). It will be seen that when the engine travels straight ahead, both counter-shaft pinions turn with the shaft and the whole differential revolves as one piece. In turning- corners, however, the bevel pinions revolve, permitting one of the counter-shaft pinions to revolve faster than the other, thus allowing the traction wheels to accommodate themselves to the curve of the road. The differential spur wheel is a separate piece from the center casting, the power being trans- mitted from the rim to the center casting through coil springs, which relieve the gearing of the shocks of starting and stopping the engine. Locking the Differential. When both traction wheels have resistance, they pull equally, but if the engine be "jacked up" until one of them is off the ground and free to turn, then when the engine is started, the differential gear will allow the free traction wheel to revolve at twice its usual speed, while the traction wheel on the ground will scarcely pull at all. Revolving at twice its usual speed means that the free traction wheel makes one revolution to nine of the fly-wheel, instead of, to the usual eighteen. Often, when one wheel is in a slippery place, it will spin around, while THE TRACTION GEARING. lOI the other on soUd ground remains still without pulling at all. To provide for such emergencies, the hub of the left traction wheel is made so that a pin can be inserted and both wheels locked to the axle. This, of course, makes both trac- tion wheels revolve together, and prevents the differential gear from working. The engine must be steered straight when the lock-pin is used, or broken gearing is liable to result. FIG. 34. THE DIFFERENTIAL GEAR, SHOWING SPRINGS Oiling the Differential. The journals of the bevel-pin- ■ons in the differential and the hub of the left traction wheel should be oiled occasionally. The left-hand or inside bevel- 102 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. gear turns upon the shaft, when the differential-gear works, and accordingly, it should be oiled occasionally through the hole provided for this purpose in its hub. The bevel-pinions also revolve about their shafts. An oil-hole is drilled through the center of each of these shafts, to provide for oiling them, as is shown in Fig. 32. The hub of the left traction wheel turns upon the axle in turning corners, and therefore should be oiled occasionally. This is done by removing the cap- screws in the hub of the traction wheel. CHAPTER X. WATER-TANKS. HE threshing- outfit, to be complete, must be provided with nrst-class water-tanks. A leaky tank is very apt to cause delay. One that is liable to break down mav entirelv cut off the water supply for a time. The axles are wet much of the time and therefore, rot very fast and are apt to break witliout warn- ing. Waiting for water for any cause should not be tol- erated by the man in charge of a threshing outfit, and one whose duty it is to haul water should never allovv^ the rig to be idle for lack of it. In localities where the farms are small and water may be had near at hand, one mounted tank does very well, as the platform tank, (with which an engine is usually equipped), will furnish the water while the mounted tank is being refilled. In localities where the water must sometimes be hauled a mile or more, tvv'O mounted tanks are generally used, or if only one be used, three or four barrels should be provided to use in addition to the plat- form tank. "Engine Tenders. Within the last fev^ years engine ten- ders have come largely into use and they are very conven- ient, especially where most of the threshing is done around 103 104 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. barns and it is necessary to back the engine more or less. The engine tender does what its name impHes, that is, it keeps a supply of coal and water near at hand. Tank Ptunps. At least one tank with each outfit should haA^e a tank pump, with a capacity of about two barrels a minute. The pump is of use not only in filling the tank, but also in rapidly transferring water from it to the platform tank, engine tender, or barrels. When equipped with a sprinkling hose, it is also useful in washing out the boiler. Attaching ''Case'' Tender. Remove the tank from under the platform. Place the tender in position behind the engine and put in the draw-pin. Turn the front axle of the engine square, measuring on each side with a string or tape from the traction wheel of the engine. Place the tender axle square, measuring from the traction wheels in like manner. Now connect the steering chains. They pass from the tender axle, above the step, along the sides of the fire-box and pass over the reach-rod, crossed, the right chain going to the left end and the left chain to the right end of the front axle. An eye-bracket, (56R), is placed on each side of the fire- box, near the bottom, through which the chains pass. To locate the holes for bolting these on, hold one of them in position, (with the bolt holes down), between the second and third rivet from the front, in the horizontal row of rivets along the sides, so that the center of the bolt holes will be four and three-eighths inches from the bottom of the sheet. Mark the holes throucrh the casting and drill them WATER-TANKS. 105 with a nine-sixteenths inch drill. This will bring the heads of the one-half inch bolts inside of the ash pan. The chain brackets on the front axle of the engine are placed so that the chain is above the axle. The position of these brackets is given in the table below. Size Engike Distanc of Draw Eye from Ground Diameter of Wheels on Tender Distance Front to Rear Axle of Engine Distance from KearEn. prine Axle to Tender Axle Distance apart of Con- nections on Tender Axle Distance apart of Con- nections on Front Engine Axle Inches. Inches. Inches Inches Inches Inches 9 H. P. 12 H. P. 15 H. v. 20 H. P. 25 K. P. 25^;^ 29 29 32 32 30 34 34 42 42 98 113 126 134M 142K 86^ 87 87 87 87K 37 37 37 37 37 32K 28M 24 22^ . The chains must not be allowed to get too loose. The wear may be taken up by means of the turn-buckles. If they are too taut, the engine will steer hard. AVhen con- nected according to these directions, the tender will retain its alignment while following the engine backward or for- ward, around any curve. Attaching to Other Engines. For engines of other make, to find the distance the chains should be apart on the front axle, first place the tender in position and place the front axle of the engine and the axle of the tender square. Then measure the distance of the tender axle from the rear axle of the engine and multiply this number by the distance in inches between the chain connections on the tender axle, T06 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. (thirty-seven inches). Divide this product by the distance of the front axle of the engine from the rear axle of the engine. The numbers must be in inches in every case and the quotient so obtained will be the distance the chains should be apart on the front axle of the engine. If it be impossible to put them the required distance apart on the engine axle, assume some distance between the connections on the tender axle and figure it again, substituting the assumed distance. To find the diameter of the wheels for the tender, subtract eleven from the number of inches the engine draw-eye is from the ground and multiply the remainder by two ; the product will be the required diameter, in inches, of the tender wheels. Three sizes of wheels are furnished, thirty inch, thirty-four inch and forty-two inch. The parts necessary to attach the tender to ''Case" center-crank engines can also be furnished. CHAPTER XL HORSE-POWERS. HE horse-power, which, at one time, was the principal means of driving threshing- machines, is still used to a considerable ex- tent for this purpose. With a sufficient num- ber of good, strong horses, this means of supplying the motive power for threshing is very satisfactory, and, owing to the fact that the investment involved in a horse-power outfit is consider- ably less than is required for a steam rig, it is probable that the horse-power will continue its usefulness in this industry for many years to come. The present style of metal-frame power is superior to the wood-frame because it is not sub- ject to atmospheric conditions, which continually cause the swelling and shrinking of wood. Starting a N^eznf Horse-Pozver. The first thing to do in preparing a new power for work is to carefully clean the cinders from the oil-boxes. Next, oil each of the bearings and thoroughly grease all the gearing, turning the power by hand until the entire wearing surface is well lubricated. A new power should be run at least half an hour before being coupled to the separator or other machine to be run. If the horses be nervous, because unused to the work, put a man 107 I08 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. with each team until they are accustomed to tlie noise and to travehng in a circle. Setting a Horse-Pozver. A horse-power, to work prop- erly, must be securely held in position. To do this, it is necessary to use at least four stakes, each of which should be about three feet long. The power should be set in align- ment with the separator so that the tumbling-rods are as straight as possible. As it is almost impossible to secure the power so that it will not shift slightly when started, it is best to make allowance for this when setting. The line of rods cannot be straight horizontally, as one end must attach to the spur-pinion shaft of the power and the other to the bevel-gear shaft of the separator, while the second rod from the power must lie near the ground in order to allow the horses to walk over it. The angles in the line of rods necessary to meet these conditions are taken care of by the knuckles connecting them, but the angles should be care- fully divided so that they are as slight as possible at each knuckle. When run at great angles, knuckles consume con- siderable power and cause excessive and unnecessary work on the part of the horses. Lubrication of the Horse-Pozver. There are two bull- pinion boxes, (an upper and lower), and two center-boxes at each end, making eight boxes in all, to be oiled on the bull-pinion shafts. There are also two spur-pinion shaft boxes and the journals of the traverse-rollers to be oiled. All the gearing and the bottom and the top of the bull-wheel HORSE-PUWERS. 109 rim should be coated with good axle grease. When the grease becomes hard and caked with dirt, it should be cleaned off and fresh grease applied. Connecting the Equalizers. The following cut shows a top view of a fourteen-horse power with "sweeps," braces FIG. 35. TOP VIEW OF POWER WITH SWEEPS AND EQUALIZER ATTACHED. and equalizer-rods attached. In hooking the equalizer-rods, always hook the ends of two rods in the end ring of the no SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. chains. The ring near the center of each chain is merely a stop and the rods should never be hooked into it. Speed of the Tumbling-Rods. The use of the sixteen- cog pinion, which gives one-hundred and one revolutions of the tumbling-rods to one round of the horses, is recom- mended, and will ordinarily run the cylinder of a "Case" separator at the proper speed. The following table gives a complete list of spur-pinions for "Case" horse-powers, any of which may be obtained if desired. v V 3« bling- make rmin. bling- make rmin. V 1 ■ a .s (LI u v a Rev. of turn rod to one of wheel. Speed of turn rod if horses 2% rounds pe Speed of turn rod if horses 2K rounds pe B •i: V. V >> CO 4>^W 1II/32 15 107 267 241 Wood 4 W 1IV32 16 lOI 252 227 Wood 4MW 1 11/32 17 95 237 214 Wood 9 W 1II/32 18 ■ 90 225 202 Wood 7 W 1II/32 20 81 202 182 Wood 4XW 1 11/32 21 76 190 171 Wood 8 W 1II/32 22 73 182 164 Wood A212W 1I/2 15 107 267 241 Iron 212W 1I/2 16 lOI 252 227 Iron 213W 1I/2 17 95 237 214 Iron A9W 1I/2 18 90 225 202 Iron A7W 1 1/2 20 81 202 182 Iron A8W 1I/2 22 73 i 182 164 Iron Separator Side-Gear. A separator must be fitted with a side-gear, or a jack must be used, in order to be driven by means of a horse-power. A speed of 750 revolutions for the twenty -bar or 1075 for the twelve-bar cylinder of "Case" separators fitted with a side-gear, requires a tumbling-rod II UKSE- PU W ERS . Ill Speed of about 227 revolutions per minute. The required speed of the tumbling-rods is found, in each case, by multi- plying the number of revolutions of the cylinder by the num- ber of teeth on the cylinder-pinion and dividing the product by the number of teeth on the bevel-gear. Jacks for Horse-Pozvers. The device used to change the motion of the tumbling-rods into that of a pulley is called a "jack." The "Case" jack has a bevel-gear, (208T), with sixty teeth and a pinion, (209T), with twenty-two teeth. The pulley, (206T), is sixteen inches in diameter and has a six-inch face. Adjusting the Iron-Frame Horse-Power. It is very im- portant that the bull-pinions should mesh properly with the bull-wheel. When the bull-pinion shafts are correctly set, the bull-wheel will not have more than one-sixteenth of an inch up and down play at any point. As the web between the upper and lower cogs of the bull-wheel varies in thick- ness, it is best to locate the thickest place and mark it. This part may be then turned between the bull-pinions and the shaft bearings adjusted so that the gears mesh as deeply as possible and at the same time allow the bull-wheel to pass freely between them. In building powers at the factory leather packing is placed between the box of the upper short bull-pinion shaft and the main frame It is the inten- tion to shave down this leather packing from time to time as the bearings wear, thus allowing the bull-pinions to be kept in proper mesh by means of set screws. The box of the 112 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. lower short bull-pinion shaft has no leather between it and the main frame; however, it can be set deeper in gear at any time by turning its set-screw from below. The main spur-wheel shaft is not adjustable and the set screws bear- ing against its boxes are used only to prevent them from becoming loose in their slots. Adjustable slides are placed above and below the bull-vvheel. Those below have set- screw adjustment, and should be adjusted, as they wear, so that the bull-wheel just clears the lower bull-pinions. The top slides prevent the up and down movement of the bull- wheel, and should be set down as they wear. The traverse- rollers prevent the bull-v/heel from crowding endwise on the bull-pinions. They should be set out by the key adjustment as they wear. The spur-pinion frame is secured by four five-eighths inch bolts in slotted holes. These allow adjust- ment of the pinion so that it may be made to mesh properly with the spur-wheel. When properly set, the pitch circles will touch and the spur-pinion shaft will be parallel with the spur-wheel shaft. Caution Concerning the Bull-Pinion Boxes. The bull- pinion boxes, Siy^W and 8i^W, have flanges which hook over the outside of the main frame, thus preventing them from crowding toward the center. When these boxes have been removed, care must be taken in replacing them to insure these flanges hooking over the outside of the frame, for if they be placed too far toward the center of the pov/er, these flanges may come in contact with the box seat and prevent HOUSE- POWERS. 1 13 the bull-pinions from meshing as deeply as they should with the bull-wheel. To prevent their getting loose, the large set-screws are locked by means of small set-screws, which bear against their threads. Removing the SJiafts. To take out the spur-wheel shaft, remove the four bolts that secure the cross-pieces to the main frame, and drop them, together with the spur-pinion frame, to the ground. Next remove the four bolts securing the bull-pinion boxes and those securing the center boxes, after which the spur-wheel shaft may be taken out without disturbing the gears keyed to it. The short bull-pinion shafts have trunnion-boxes at their inner ends, which permit movement sufficient to allow the shafts to be removed. It is necessary to remove the wood piece with slide attached, which is on the rear axle. Reversing the Gearing. The bull- wheel ma\' be turned over, the short shafts interchanged and the spur-wheel shaft reversed, (end for end), so that the teeth of all the gearing may be worn on both their faces. Reverse Motion of Tuinbling-Rods. The direction in which the tumbling-rods revolve may be reversed so that they turn in the same direction as that in which the horses walk, instead of turning, as usual, in the opposite direction. When reverse motion is necessary for driving machinery other than "Case" separators, proceed to attach the parts as follows : First, bore a one and one-half inch hole in rear axle, two and three-eisfhths inches from its toD and five and 114 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. one-half inches from the center of the bolt holding the cast- ing, 184W or 222 W. Then bolt steady-bearing, 104W, on the inside of the axle with seven-sixteenths by four and three-fourths inch bolts. Next put the knuckle on the spur- pinion shaft and connect it with the short rod, 0125W, which passes through the casting, 104W, and through the hole in the axle. Attaching Truck-Brake to Iron-Frame Horse-Power. Put the brake pipe under the main frame with casting 210W, face down and on the right-hand side. The pipe is located between the two five-eighths inch hooks and rear wheel, the short ends of the hooks coming outside of the iron frame. In order to prevent the nuts from working loose, the ends of the hooks may be riveted. When this is done, casting 32 iW may be bolted on top of the flange of the main frame. A hole to receive it will be found on the front end of the power frame. Next insert the iron lever into its socket, 210W, and tighten the set-screws, which should not be tightened too much, or they will cause unnecessary strain on casting 210W. Put the ratchet in casting 232 W with the hole down and with the notches turned towards the front. Then, put it in the notch that holds the brake from the wheels, and bolt it to the brake lever below. Place the brake-block casting, 208W, on the right end of the pipe and 209W on the left; bring the blocks against the wheels and turn the set screws up tight ; then loosen and remove, and with a file or cold chisel, flatten a place on the pipe for the HORSE- POWERS. II5 set-screws. This will prevent the pipe from turning in these castings. The pipe is countersunk for the set-screws in 210W, these set-screws being tightened at the factory. The key with straps should be nailed to the driver's platform. This is used to prevent the brake from dropping onto the wheels when not wanted. The brake is applied by the foot. Do not press the ratchet down harder than necessary. The Spur-Wheel and Bull-Pinion Shafts. The key- seats of these shafts are cut in line with each other and those in the bull-pinions and inside-pinions are cut with reference to one of their teeth so that when the pinions are keyed to the shaft, their teeth will be in line. It will be seen that if the shaft has been twisted so that the teeth of the pinions are even slightly out of line, the power cannot be made to run properly. A new spur-wheel shaft is the only remedy for such a condition. Work Done by Horses. The sweeps of the twelve-horse power and smaller sizes are twelve feet and seven inches long, and their ends move in a circle the circumference of which is seventy-nine feet. The sweeps of the fourteen- horse power are fourteen feet long, and their ends move in a circle, the circumference of which is eighty-nine feet. Horses ordinarily travel around the seventy-nine foot circle two and one-half times a minute, and around the eighty-nine foot circle two and one-fourth times a minute, in either case covering about two and one-fourth miles per hour. The term *'horse-power" (the standard measure of power) is defined Il6 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. as the power necessary to raise 33.000 pounds one foot per ininute. A horse walks two hundred feet per minute in travehng around the eighty-nine foot circle t¥/o and one- quarter times per minute so that to do work equal to one "horse-power" it is necessary for it to pull only one-hundred and sixty-five pounds, which is the quotient of 33,000 di- vided hy 200. This quotient does not allow for the friction of the machine. TJie Number of Horses. When desired for light work, the regular twelve-horse power with six sweeps may be used with only six horses by tying up equalizers on the empty sweeps and attaching teams to alternate svv'eeps, or by hitch- ing a single horse to each sweep. In the same manner any of the other sizes of horse-powers may be used with half the usual number of horses. Since different numbers of sweeps are used the holes in the bull-wheel are marked with dots so that the brackets and end-supports for the sweeps may be easily placed in their proper positions. One of each of these castings should be first bolted to the holes with three dots near them for this set of holes is used with any number of levers. Bull-wheel 89W has the dots at the side of the holes for twelve horses, inside of the holes for ten horses, and outside of the holes for eight horses. Bull- wheel loW has the dots at the sides of the holes for twelve horses, inside of the holes for ten horses and outside of the holes for fourteen horses. HORSE-POWERS. II' O I— « O [in O > > < o H CO d tt8 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. PARTS USED ON IRON AND WOOD FRAME POWERS. S and lo Horse Size. 4>^W 212 W OI22 W 89 w 2 w 90 w OI2I w 3 w 0123 w 8IXW Si^^W 220 w 121 w 122 w 227 w 188 w 189 w 190 w 225 w 193 w 218 w 219 w 197 w 199 w 229 w 230 w 204 w 214 w 215 w 216 w 217 w 55 w 56 w 19 w 20 w 48 w 49 w 50 w 52 w 75 w 76>^W /8 w 82 w 163 X 12 and 14 Horse Size, 4>^W 212 W 0122 w 10 w 15 w 16 w 012 1 w 43 W 0124 W 45 W 45>^W 182 W 183 w 185 w 187 w 188 w 189 w 190 w 191 w 193 w 218 w 219 w 197 w 199 w 202 w 203 w 204 w 214 w 215 w 216 w 217 w 12 W 13 w 19 w 40 w 48 w 49 W 50 w 52 w 75 W 76KW 78 w 82 w 163 X Iron or Wood Frames NAME OF PART. Wood Iron Both Both Both Both Both Both Both Both Both Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Iron Wood Wood Wooa Wood Wood Wood Wood Wood Wood Wood Wood Wood Wood Spur-pinion. Spur-pinion. Spur-pinion shaft. Bull-wheel. Bull-pinion, Inside-pinion. Inside-pinion shaft. Spur-wheel. Spur-wheel shaft. Half bull-pinion box. Other half bull-pinion box. Cast frame for power. Rear-axle bracket, R. H. Rear-axle bracket, L. PI. Top cap for bull-pinion box. Top slide holder. Top slide for bull-wheel. Bottom cap for bull-pinion box. Center-box for spur-wheel shaft, R. H, Inside trunnion box for shaft. Front support for spur-gear frame. Rear support for spur-gear frame. Support for short shaft, center-box, L. H. Support for short shaft, center-box, R. H. Support for bull-wheel slide, P.ear. Support for bull-wheel slide, Front, Slide under bull-wheel. Spur-gear frame. Cap for spur-gear frame. Brake- wheel. Collar on spur-pinion shaft. Back support. Front Support. Support for center-box. Center-box for spur-wheel shaft. Cap for spur-gear frame. Back Stirrup for spur-gear frame. Front Stirrup for spur-gear frame. Spur-gear frame. Arch frame. Inside-box, inside-pinion .shaft. Cap to hold bull-pinion box. Slide under bull-wheel. Brake-wheel. PART 11. SEPARATORS. CHAPTER I. FITTING UP AND STARTING A NEW SEPARATOR. OME separators are shipped from the factory ''set-up" with pulleys and all parts put on and all attachments in place. Others, for com- pactness, are shipped as they are stored, with tailings-elevator removed and tied on the deck, pulleys and other parts packed inside the ma- chine, and the attachments "knock-down" — that is, taken apart and small parts boxed. For ocean ship- ment, separators are taken apart so that all parts may be boxed. Scffiiig Up. In setting up a dismantled separator, care should be taken to see that all nuts and keys are properly tightened. The pulleys must be set in line to insure the belts running properly. The cuts showing belting arrangement will aid in placing the pulleys in their proper position. If the box of parts contains a list of its contents, the names and numbers will also help in determining the position of each. The crank-shaft which drives the straw-rack and conveyor should be put in with the long end to the right. Starting a Nezv Separator. A new machine should be 122 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. set Up and run a couple of hours, before attempting to thresh any grain. Look into the machine on the straw rack, conveyor and fans, and then turn each shaft by hand a few revolutions to make sure there is nothing loose or misplaced in the machine, before putting on the belts. Oiling. The oil boxes should be carefully cleaned of cinders and dirt that may have collected during shipment, and the paint removed from the oil holes. Screw down the plugs of the grease cups on beater, fan and crank boxes to the end of the threads, using a wrench, if necessary, to clean off the paint. Fill the grease cups on beater, fan and crank boxes with hard oil aiid fill oil cups on cylinder boxes with a good lubricating oil. It is best to first place a small quan- tity of wool or cotton waste in the bottom of each oil-cup. Connect the separator with engine or other power, running orjly the cylinder for a time, and feeling of the boxes to ascer- tain whether they show any tendency to heat. While the cylinder is running, oil both ends of the crank pitmans, the four bearings of the rock shafts and the two of the tailer rock shaft if there be one. Take ofif the tightener pulley from its spindle, clean llie oil chambers and oil the spindle before replacing it. Put on the belt driving beater and crank (see cut page 1 70), which will put the beater, straw rack and conveyor in motion. Next oil the shoe-pitman eccentrics and the bearings of the shoe shaft if there be one. "> This shaft is driven from the fan on right side of machine (see cut page 176). The fan belt, which runs over crank belt, but FITTING UP AND STARTING A NEW SEPARATOR. 1 23 not under tightener (see cut page 170), and the shoe belt may be now run on. Oil the moving parts as they run, occasionally screwing down the grease plugs on crank- and fan-shaft boxes. The chain of the tailings elevator should be adjusted so that it has slack enough to turn freely, but not enough to allow it to kink or unhook. After oiling the upper boxes and both bearings of the tailings auger and the four of the tailings conveyor, run on the elevator belt, which drives from the crank, crossed, (see cut page 128). Oil the bearings of the grain auger and put on its belt. Where no grain elevator is used, this belt will go on either side of the machine, so that it may always be on the opposite side to that from which the grain is taken. When all parts of the separator are in motion the bear- ings should be carefully watched to detect any tendency to heat, and this can best be done when the machine is running empty, for the operator can then give it his entire attention. The machine has been tested and left the factory in good running order, but dirt and grit of shipment by rail is liable to cause trouble and it is best to make sure that all the bear- ings are oiled. It is of great importance that these bearings be well oiled on the first run, as they are somewhat rough, and consequently require more oil and a longer time for it to spread over the journals. Oiling a shaft as it runs, allows the oil to work in and be distributed over the whole bearing surface. When the machine has run for an hour or so and every- 124 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. thing shown to be in good order, it is ready for threshing. After adjusting the concaves, check board, sieves and bhnds, to suit the kind and condition of grain, according to the directions given elsewhere in this book, grain may be run through the machine. CHAPTER II. SETTING THE SEPARATOR. \ HE separator may do good work if the rear '^f truck wheels be a few inches higher or lower P than the front wheels, but it must always be level crossways. Use a spirit level of good length on the rear axle and on the sills. A little practice or calculation will enable one to determine how deep a hole to dig in front of the high wheel in order to bring the machine level when pulled into it. Knowing the axles of the separator to be about twelve feet apart, it is easy to calculate how nuich the front or rear wliecls must be lowered to bring the machine level. For example, if a spirit level two feet'-' in length be used and when placed on the sill of machine its front end must be raised one-half inch to bring it level, then the rear wheels must be lowered six times as much, or three inches, to bring separator level. This method may also be used In determining the amount to lower one rear wheel to bring machine level crossways, which, as already stated, is more important than having it level lengthways. In this case, however, the amount is different for each size of separator. *In this case the distance between axles (twelve feet), is just six times the length of the lever, (two feet). 125 126 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. The hole or holes should he dug hefore the engine is un- coupled or the team unhitched, so that if not level, machine may be pulled out, the holes changed and the machine backed into them. When the machine is high in front, it can be quickly leveled, after engine or team has been removed, by cramping the front axle, digging in front of one wheel and behind the other, so that wheels will drop into the holes when pole is brought around square. With geared machines "bolster- jacks" are used to keep the *'side-gear" from twisting front end of machine out of level. The hind axle being level, place the bolster-jacks in position, and screw them up so as to level the front of ma- chine. It is not necessary to have the front axle level, as the bolster- jacks will accommodate themselves to it. Place a block in front of the right hind wheel to prevent the machine from being drawn forward by the belt. This block should be carried with the machine, so as to be handy when needed. When pulling the machine out of holes, starting it on soft ground or on a hill, cramp the team around to one side, and it will move the load Avith about half the effort necessary to start straight ahead. In cramping the front axle, but one of the hind wheels starts at a time. Setting zvith Reference to the Wind. The thresherman cannot always choose the direction in which to set the ma- chine, but when he can, he should select a position in which the wind will be blowing in the same general directions as SETTING THE SEPARATOR. \2'J that in whicli the straw Is moving, and preferabl}' a little ''quartering," as this keeps the men out of the dust more than when set straight with the wind. This position insures greater safety from hre in case wood or straw is used as fuel. 128 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. 1 T3 O '0 o o ^ c8^ e^ o ctf 42", ste steel an and up, tacker. ker sha levator. tor shaf er. haft. e, 50" a laft. '' '" OQJ«bi3U3-^'n^ ^ V rH CS ,», f* 3 i_ fJ 9^9 3 gi2.g&n-S^ iLiiuii*o>+>>be>w .E:.i:.wX:=: c'H c'C c'^^ " ^^v<>-"T33O'OO'00'CO '^'0'^ >>P«>>>>>,>>>,>^>. flflC-">-ii-i m m v V*N^^ vei v^" 8 " IVio" 12-Bar Wood. 861T 83/" 8 '' lYi " 12-Bar Steel or Wood. 5004T ^)r 9 " i>^" 12-Bar Steel or Wood. ^ 12-Bar Wood. ^ 5005T 9%" 9 " 1% ^' 5006T 9}r 9 " 2>^" 12-Bar Wood. 500T 9/8" S " I)^" i2-Bar Steel or Wood. 505 iT 10^" 9 " ^}i" 12-Bar Steel or Wood . • 5052T loyr 9 " I^" 12-Bar Wood. 5053T loX" 9 " 2/8" 12-Bar Wood. 5441T 10 '' 9%" 2-/10" 20-Bar Steel or Wood. 5367T IIK" 9%" 2yu:" 20-Bar Steel or Wood. 5368T 12 " 9%" 2^A.-." 20-Bar Steel or Wood. 5294T I3M'' 9 " 2%o" 20-Bar Steel or Wood. A5294T 14/8" 9}r 2-/16" 20-Bar Steel or Wood. 5440T 15%" 9'4" 2-/10" 20-Bar Steel or Wood. 5369T 16 " 9)i" 2-/10" 20-Bar Steel or Wood. 5372T 26 " 9 " 2Vio" 20-Bar Steel or Wood, Ascertaining^ Cylinder Speed. The best way to as- certain the speed is by means of a revolution counter, but if one be not at hand, the speed may be found by counting the number of times the main drive belt goes around in a minute. To do this, multiply the re- quired speed of the cylinder by the circumference of the cylinder pulley in inches and divide by 12 to reduce to feet. Dividing by the length of the belt in feet will give the re- quired number of times belt should go around in a minute. For example : If cylinder be a 20-bar, its speed should be 132 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESFIING. 750 and the regular pulley 5294T for this is 13^ inches in diameter or 42 inches in circumference. Multiplying 750 by 42 gives 31,500 inches as the product. Dividing this by 12 to reduce to feet gives 2625 feet per minute as the required travel of the belt. If this be 120 feet long, dividing by 120 gives 22 (nearly) as the required number of rounds of the belt per minute. With a 150 foot belt, the number of rounds will be nearly 18 or vith 160 foot belt 17 (nearly) rounds. In the same manner, the required number of rounds can be figured for any cylinder speed, cylinder pulley or length of belt. Cylinder Boxes. The cylinder boxes are the most im- portant bearings on a separator and they must receive a cer- tain amount of attention or there will be trouble. All Case 20 bar cylinders are fitted with ball and socket boxes, which practically eliminate all possibility of their heating from Improper alignment. The boxes are eight inches long, allow- ing a good bearing surface for these large cylinders and are fitted with oil cups which hold a sufficient quantity of oil to amply lubricate the bearings. The 12 bar cylinders of the steel separators also have ball and socket or "self-aligning" boxes. The chapter on ''Lubrication and Hot Boxes" should be read with special reference to the cylinder boxes. To Take ''End Play" Out of the Cylinder. Loosen lower half of housing of box by slacking the nuts which secure it, and slide it against hub of cylinder head. The holes in the ironsides are slotted to allow for this end adjustment and also THE CYLINDER, CUxN CAVES AND BEATER. 1 33 to permit the moving of the cyhnder in case the cylinder teeth do not come exactly between the concave teeth. Do not crowd cylinder box so hard against the cylinder head as to cause danger of heating. It is best to leave about 1/64 of an inch end play. Tracking of Teeth. All regular Case 20 bar cylinders have five teeth which pass in the same space between the con- cave teeth, during one revolution, "five teeth tracking" as it is called. The 12 bar cylinders have three teeth tracking. Some machines of other manufacture have two and some four teeth tracking, and some have irregular spacing, as. for example, three and six alternating. The effect of this latter arrangement is to take twice as much straw through some concave spaces as through others. Cracking Grain. The cut on the following page is full size and shows the actual distance between the concave and cylinder teeth of our regular cylinder. It Is shown to em- phasize the importance of having the cylinder properly ad- justed endwise and of keeping the teeth straight. Supposing all the teeth to be straight and that the cylinder be moved 1/16 of an inch to one end. Then instead of there being 1/8 of an inch space between the cylinder and concave teeth on both sides, the cylinder teeth would be 3/16 of an inch from the concave teeth on one side and only 1/16 of an Inch from them on the other. This condition of affairs would allow the heads to slip through without being threshed on one side of the teeth and on the other would crack the grain and cut 134 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. I INSIDE CY TjnSER B.AR] OUTSIDE CYLINDER BAR FIG. 39. CUT SHOWING SPACE BETWEEN CYLINDER AND CONCAVE TEETH FULL SIZE. THE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER. I35 Up the straw, thereby consuming much power, increasing the difficulties of separation and making the sieves handle a large amount of chaff. This same condition exists when all of the teeth are more or less bent. The cylinder may be moved endwise, as already explained, to give the proper spaces between the teeth, but the teeth must be kept straight. Special Cylinders, To do good work in rice a special cylinder and concave are required with a wider spacing of the teeth than the regular ones. This gives more clearance be- tween the cylinder and concave teeth and, together with a reduced speed, prevents the cylinder from cracking the rice. A special cylinder and concaves are also made for threshing peas and beans. Either of these special cylinders may be put in any Case separator by making the complete change in cylinder, concaves and concave circles. Further informa- tion regarding threshing rice, peas, beans, etc., is given else- where in this book. Balaneing Cylinders. On account of the high speed at which cylinders run, they must be accurately balanced or they will not run smoothly. It is essential in balancing a cyl- inder that the weights used for this purpose be placed where the deficiency of weight exists. The shop practice is to rest the journals of a cylinder on level ways and put weights under center bands until the cylinder will stand at any point on the ways. The cylinder is then put in a frame having narrow, loosely fitting wooden boxes and run at about 1200 revolutions per minute. The parts of the jour- 136 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. nals extending beyond the boxes are marked as it rims. These marks show the initiated at which end and at what point to drive the weights used in the final balancing. A cylinder may be balanced, though not as perfectly as is done at the factory, by resting it on ways made by placing two carpenter's squares on wooden horses. The squares should have blocks nailed on each side to keep them on edge, and should be carefully leveled both ways. Place the cylinder near the center of the ways and roll it gently. Mark with a piece of chalk the bar that is uppermost when it comes to rest. Repeat, and if cylinder stops in the same position three times in succession, drive a wedge under center band at the chalk mark. Rub off the marks and repeat until the cylin- der comes to rest at any point. Care should be taken not to mar the journals in placing them on the ways. The Concaves. All that has been said about keeping the cylinder teeth tight applies also to the concave teeth. They should be driven in and tightened as often as necessary, until they are firmly seated. In driving them in, it is neces- sary, however, to use some judgment, for as the concaves are of cast iron, they are liable to split if the teeth are driven in too hard. Setting the Concaves. The concaves should be adjusted to suit the kind and condition of grain. Four rows of teeth are usually required for wheat and barley, but for damp grain six rows will be necessary. Rye can usually be threshed with two rows, but the cylinder speed should be THE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER. 1 37 higher than for wheat. Oats when dry can generally be threshed with two rows of teeth, but flax and timothy will require six rows. Where four are used, they are most effective if one concave be placed clear back and one in front with a blank in the center. In hand feeding, if the straw be dry and brittle, the cylinder can be given more ''draw" by placing a blank in front. Always use as few teeth, and leave them as low as is possible and thresh clean. When more teeth than are required are used, or when they are left higher than is necessary, the straw will be cut up, and, be- sides using more power, the separation is made much more difficult, and the sieves are obliged to handle an unnecessarily large amount of chopped straw\ It Is better to use two rows set clear up, than four rows left low. Sometimes a row of teeth is taken out of a concave, making it possible to use one, three or five rows. Special Concaves. Some grains, as for example, Turkey wheat, are extremely difficult to thresh from the head, and if it be found that the regular six rows will not thresh clean, a three-row concave, filled with corrugated teeth, should be procured. This, with two regular concaves, will give seven rows of teeth. Should it be necessary, two, or even three, three-row concaves of corrugated teeth may be used. The three-row concaves of corrugated teeth are usually used for threshing alfalfa, but for clover, the special clover concaves are necessary. Information concerning them is given else- where in this book. 138 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. Adjustment of Concaves. In the left side of the "iron- sides," or cyHnder side castings, of the wood 12 bar sep- arator, there are thumbscrews, which press against the con- cave circle and take up the end play of the concaves. The steel and 20 bar wood machines have set screws in both ironsides. When it is desired to change the concaves, raise them up and drop them down a few times to jar out the dust and dirt which has become lodged between concave circles and ironsides, wedging them tight. With concaves in their lowest position, place a stick of wood, the tooth straightener, or anything else that may be handy, between concave and cylinder teeth and raise the concaves so that the teeth cannot pass. Then roll the cylinder backward, striking the concaves several times with the momentum of the cylinder if necessary, until they are jarred loose and come up with the cylinder, as it is rolled backward by hand. The thumb-screws mentioned above may be loosened if necessary, but if they be, it should be done on one side only so as not to disturb the adjustment. Caution. When the separator is belted to an engine one should make sure that the engineer has closed the throttle and opened the cylinder cocks before changing concaves, fixing teeth or otherwise handling the separator cylinder. The Beater. In threshing very heavy, tough grain, if the straw be inclined to wrap the beater or if it tends to follow the cylinder around too far, the beater may be raised by tak- ing out the blocks from between the beater boxes and the THE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER. '139 girt to which they are fastened on wood separators or by moving the girts to the upper holes on steel machines. There is also provision in the girts for moving the beater back to give more room between beater and cross-piece, but it is very seldom necessary to m.ove it. The speed of the beater is four hundred revolutions per minute and as its bearings are provided with hard oil cups, a little attention will keep them in good running order. The Grates. A large percentage of the grain is separated from the straw by the grates through which it is thrown with all the force acquired from the cylinder. The grate under the beater is adjustable and should usually be kept as high as possible for the separation is better when it is high. It should never be lowered unless absolutely necessary. llie Check Board should usually be kept quite low to pre- vent the grain from being thrown to the rear of the machine on top of the straw, where it might be carried out of the machine without being separated. In damp grain and es- pecially damp rye or oats the check board should be raised to allow the straw to pass freely through the machine, for if left down, it will retard the straw too much, and may cause the cvlinder to wind. I40 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. Pi u H Q O H <; -r; Q W 0^ -r; UJ O O Q O d OJ u « li 2 i: 5 4; ;< Jir^ w rt tft o C'C c"^' C'C fl CO CO CO o >>>>>.>.>. >^ >> il; (Lt (L) 4J (U Ni-Kl'5 r=xin rKm Jj^lO t- N n r« "co cs cs 01 CO ^OsVi M Cr> C to CO rO^ 00 p;cc^;z;oMO«WQ&. ^ o r^vO t- tN O M to ro to r~) O rO>^ CHAPTER IV. THE STRAW-RACK AND CONVEYOR. HE straw-rack and conveyor are both carried by studs on the rocker or "vibrating" arms, the straw-rack having a longer leverage than the conveyor, so that each counterbalances the other. They are more accurately bal- anced when the machine is in operation and both are loaded than when the machine is running empty. It is very difficult to sep- arate grain from straw that is badly cut up, therefore care should be taken to use as few rows of concave teeth as will thresh clean from the heads. Speed. The most important factor in producing good work by the straw-rack is the speed. To do good work, it must make 230 vibrations per minute. Its speed can best be determined by using a revolution-counter on the crank shaft. Some, although not all, persons can determine the speed by letting one of the pitmans or a key of one of the crank shaft pulleys strike one hand once every revolution, while holding a watch in the other hand and counting for a half or a full minute. The proper speed is as essential to good work by the conveyor sieve or "chaffer" as by the straw-rack ; if too fast, grain will go over the sieve with the chaff, and if too slow the sieve will be overloaded. The present style of straw-rack has riser supports, which 141 142 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. prevent the risers from sagging in the middle. (See cut, page 120). Fish-backs are nailed to the straw-rack risers, two on the second riser (from the front), three on the third and four on the fourth. The straw-rack ordinarily does good work without the fish-backs, but in cases where the separa- tion is very difficult, they will aid materially. A Special Straw-Rack called the ''Oregon" straw-rack is made for use where the straw is badly cut up or so short owing to the grain being headed that most of it passes through the regular rack. Parts can be furnished for making an Oregon rack of the regular one. Pounding. The crank-boxes and pitmans should be kept adjusted so that the machine does not make a knocking or pounding noise. The maple boxes on the straw-rack and conveyor are inexpensive and should be replaced when worn out. The pitmans shorten as they wear, and this, with the wear of the crank boxes,. sometimes allows the rear vibrating arms to drop nearly to their dead-centers. This causes the machine to run hard, pound badly, and often breaks the vi- brating arms. The rear vibrating arms may be prevented from dropping too lev/ in three ways : first, if the frame be of wood, the crank boxes may be moved forward by putting leather between them and the post ; second, by lengthening pitmans by putting leather over Avorn surface at ends or by getting new and longer pitmans ; and third, by moving the rock-shaft boxes to the rear. This last method is the most difficult and should it be attempted, care must be taken to move all the boxes exactly the same distance. CHAPTER V THE CLEANING APPARATUS. V HE fan and sieves aided by the tailings auger I and tailings elevator separate the grain from the chaff. It is in the handling of these, which constitute the "cleaning apparatus/' more than any other part of the separator, that the skill of the operator or separator "tender," as he is usually called, shows itself and the local reputation of any particular niachine is largely due to its record as a "cleaner." Tlic Fan Blinds. The position of the fan blinds regulates the amount of wind or "blast" that the fan produces. These should be adjusted to clean the grain without blowing it over and this adjustment can be made while the machine is run- ning. Both upper and lower blinds should be partly open. The right hand blinds affect the left side of the sieve and vice versa ; therefore, if grain is being blown over on one side, the blinds on the opposite side should be closed a little. Use as much wind as possible without blowing over grain. In windy weather it is necessary to close the blinds on the windward side of the machine more than those on the other side. The blast is retarded by the volume of chaff it is moving, hence heavy feeding, and a blast that is all right 143 144 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. when the CA'Hnder is kept full, will carry over grain when the machine runs empty. Steady feeding is therefore impor- tant on this account and the separator tender should let the pitchers understand that he cannot produce the best results without their aid, in keeping an even and continuous stream of grain going into the cylinder. Tlie Wind-Board is placed in the machine so that the blast from the fan will strike the conveyor sieve about half way back. The strongest part of the blast will then pass through the shoe sieve near the front end which gives it a cleaning capacity its entire length. If the wind board becomes bent or sagged so that it stands but little above the floor of the shoe, the grain will slide over it into the fan, and then be thrown clear out of the machine. To prevent the liability of this, belts or "traps" should not be kept in the fan drum. Fan Speed. The speed of the fan for i2-bar separator should be about 470 and for the 20-bar about 485 revolutions. Sieves. The function of all sieves is to assist the fan in separating the grain from the chaff and in preventing heads and other heavy objects larger in size than the grain from mingling with the clean grain. Sieves are distinguished from screens in that the grain being cleaned passes through them while it passes over a screen. Adjustable Sieves. To obviate the delay and trouble of changing sieves each time the machine threshes a different grain, adjustable sieves have been constructed in which the size of the openings may be changed to suit the kind of grain THE CLEANING APPARATUS. I45 or seed. This adjustment may be made while the machine is running. All Case separators are now regularly fitted with an adjustable conveyor-sieve, commonly called the "chaffer," adjustable conveyor-extension and adjustable shoe-sieve. The latter should be placed in the shoe with the rear rod in the fourth hole and the front end high enough to leave only an inch between it and the heel board of the shoe. The Conreyor-Extcnsion or Chaffer-Extension carries the coarse chaff from the conveyor sieve to the stacker. The con- veyor sieve should be so adjusted as to let all the good grain through because that which goes to the extension and drops through it is returned with the tailings to the cylinder. The conveyor-extension should be coarser than the conveyor sieve so as to allow all the unthreshed heads to pass through. If they pass over it they are lost. The present style of adjust- able conveyor extension is hinged to the rear of the con- veyor sieve and also fastened to the conveyor side-rails. By loosening the bolts wdiich hold it to the side rails this exten- sion may be lifted out of the way to get at shoe sieves. Common Sieves is the name given to non-adjustable sieves and includes the lip, the round-hole, the oblong-hole and the woven-wire sieves. Fig. 41 shows the nine positions or notches, in which a sieve may be placed at the fan end of the shoe, and they are numbered, beginning at the top. It also shows the six positions for the rod at the rear end and these are also num- bered from the top. 146 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. To Insert Common Sieves place a long rod in the bottom of slots, leaving nuts loose. The rods at fan end of sieve are about lYz inches longer than those at rear end. In changing from one sieve to another it is not necessary to remove the rod at fan end. Slide in the sieve and put a short rod in the proper hole at rear. Adjust sieve to proper Rear End FIG. 41. SHOE SHOWING POSITIONS OF SIEVE RODS. position at front end and tighien the nuts. If two sieves are to be used put the top one in first with rod in bottom of the slots. Raise it up to proper position, then put rod for lower sieve in the slots and sHde it in below the other. The rod of upper sieve cannot be tightened until lower sieve is in place. Insert pins in the holes to hold it up while putting in lower sieve. Screw the nuts up quite tightly, but not so much as to cause the sieves to buckle. Twenty-penny wire nails may be used as pins in adjusting sieves. List of Common Sieves. The following sieves arc used for many other grains and seeds than those mentioned, but the few given may serve to identify and explain the nature of the sieves. THE CLEANIXG AlTARATr^S. 147 LIST OF COMMON SIEVES. D. Conveyor sieve, 2 in. lip, shown below. E. Conveyor or oat sieve, 13^ in. lip, shown below. F. Oat sieve, % in. lip, shown below. G. Wheat sieve, % in. lip, shown below. H Wheat sieve, i%4 in. round hole, shown on page 149. I. Flax sieve, %3 in. round hole, shown on page 149. K. Cheat screen, Vi&x% in. oblong hole, shown on page 149. L. Cheat screen, reg., 1/14x3^ in. oblong hole, shown on page 149. M. Timothy sieve, Vie in. round hole, shown on page 149. N. Clover or alfalfa, %3 in. round hole, shown on page 149. O. Cockle screen, J^ in. round hole, shown on page 149. P. Pea screen, ^Aqx% in. oblong hole, shown on page 149. Q. Wheat sieve, 43^x43/3 mesh wire, shown on page 149. R. Clover sieve, 12x12 mesh wire, shown on page 149. T. Timothy sieve, 16x16 mesh wire, shown on page 149. U. Orchard-grass sieve, %2'k% in. oblong hole, shown on p. 149. W. Pea screen, %x^ in. mesh wire, shown on page 149. X, Screen, y^o in. round hole, shown on page 149. Y. Screen, Via in. round hole, shown on page 149. 2" Lip Sieve *'D" IW Lip Sieve "E" M" Lip Sieve "F" %" Lip Sieve "G" FIG. 42. LIP SIEVES. (Reduced.) 148 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. Screens. A screen removes particles smaller than the grain or seed being threshed, such as weed seeds, sand, or other foreign matter which is usually valueless. Sometimes, however, a useful seed, such as timothy is screened out of one of the large grains, as oats. In general, for weed seeds that are approximately round, the round hole are better than the oblong hole screens. However, the latter are the only ones that will take out "cheat" which is often found in wheat. The screen lies in the bottom of the shoe and is held in place by hooks with thumb nuts which engage castings fastened on the frame of the screen. When a screen is used the re- movable strip in the bottom of the shoe is taken out to allow the screenings to fall on the ground. All screens are liable to become clogged and in this condition are an obstruction to the grain and wind. They should therefore be kept clean and only used when necessary. The list of screens is given on page 147 and they are illustrated on page 149. The Tailings Elevator returns to the cylinder for a second threshing the unthreshed heads and all trash, which is too coarse to fall through the sieves and too heavy to be blown out by the blast. It consists of an elevator with cups or flights carried on sprocket chain, into which the tailings are delivered by an auger (called the tailings auger), and a spout to carry the tailings from the end of the elevator to the cylinder. This spout has an auger on some separators and It is then called the ''tailings conveyor." The tailings elevator is driven from the crank-shaft with a crossed belt THE CLEANING APPARATUS. ,V" Round Hole "X" W Round Hole "M" I't " Round Hole V Y" - • • • • • • • • • • • ^' Round Hole "N" V Round Hole "O" /," Round H..le "I"^ ir'Round Hole^H'' Jxr'Oblong Hole"K" i^xJ^Oblong Hole"L" »,x4"ObloDgHole'*U*' ^^.x^-'ObloncjHole-P" ir|"Meeh Wire "W !6xl6Mc6h Wire"T'' 1?? 12 Mesh Wire "H" 4ix4|Mesh Wire^^Q'^ FIG. 43. SIEVES AND SCREENS^ (FuU SizC.) THE CLEANING APPARATUS. 149 SO that thf chain carries the taihngs up the lower pipe. The speed 5f the drive shaft at top is 185 re\ohitions per minute and the upper and lower sprockets having the same num.bcr of teeth, the tailings auger also runs at this speed. Oiling Tailings Elevator. The boxes to be oiled on tail- ings elevator are the two of the shaft at the upper end, the one bolted to "boot" at lower end an_d its mate, which is at the other end of the auger on opposite side of separator. The tailings conveyor has two bearings for the small cross-shaft and one at each end of auger. These should be frequently oiled and the bevel gears kept greased. Adjusting Chains of Tailings Elevator. The boxes at the upper end of the elevator have slotted holes to allow them to be moved for tightening the chain carrying the cups. Set- screws with long threads aid in adjusting the boxes and in holding them in place. This chain should be kept tight enough to prevent it from unhooking, but it should have slack enough to run freely. The short chain driving the tail- ings conveyor is tightened by lowering the brackets support- ing it, the holes in which are slotted for this purpose. To Put Chain in Tailings Elevator. Tie a weight to the end of rope and drop it down the lower part of elevator. Untie the weight and tie rope to end of chain, and while one man is pulling on the rope from above let another feed the chain in from below. When chain appears at the top, drop the rope down the upper part of the elevator, and when chain 150 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. is started around the upper sprocket, pull the rope from below and feed it in as before to bring it to its proper place. Hook the chain at bottom, see that it is on the sprocket, and tighten by means of adjusting screws at the top. Turn the pulley at top of elevator by hand until the chain has gone once around to insure its being free from kinks. The Tailings are a good indication of the work the sieves are doing. They should be small in amount and contain no light chaff and very little plump grain. If too much good grain be returned with the tailings, ascertain if it comes over the shoe sieve or through the conveyor extension. If it be passing over the shoe sieve, probably this sieve is overloaded with chaff, as is sometimes the case when the straw is badly cut up. To remedy this, the conveyor sieve should be partly closed to let less straw through. If, however, the gocKl grain is going over the conveyor sieve and through the con- veyor extension, the remedy is just the reverse, that is, the conveyor sieve should be opened. The adjustment in sep- arators with lip sieves is made by bending the lips, but as a usual thing, they should be set at about a forty-five degree angle. Grain returned in the tailings is apt to be cracked by the cylinder, and when the tailings are heavy this is some- times of importance. If very much chaff is returned it in- creases the difficulties of separation, and must be handled by the sieves again. In all cases have as few tailings as possible. CHAPTER VI. THRESHING WITH A REGULARLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR. HIS chapter will deal with the threshing of those grains and seeds which may be suc- cessfully handled by a regularly equipped separator. It will include the threshing of wheat, rye, oats, barley, flax, timothy, buck- wheat, millet and speltz or emmer. Those grains and seeds which cannot be threshed successfully without some change in, or addition to a regu- larly equipped separator will be treated separately in the following chapter. Headed Grain. The bulk of the grain grown at the present time is cut by binders and is delivered to the thresh- ing machine in bundles. There are localities, however, in which all, or nearly all, the grain is cut by headers and delivered to the separator loose. Bound grain is supposed to be fed to the cylinder, "heads first," and when so fed, the work of the cylinder is made easy as the straw holds the heads while the grain is being knocked out of them. This cannot be the case with headed grain, as usually but little straw is left on the heads, because, to keep the bulk small, the header is run to cut only low enough to get most of the heads. Other things being equal, headed grain is, then. 151 152 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. harder to knock out of the heads than bound grain, but no trouble is experienced with the "Case" separator in head- ings, if the cyHnder and concaves be in good condition. Most of the grain raised on the Pacific coast is headed, and a special feeder, known as the "Spokane Feeder," is used, usually in connection with derrick-forks. In the more east- ern headed grain districts, the mounted feeder carrier is used as an extension to the regular bundle feeder. Thresliing Wheat. Ordinarily, it is not difficult to do good work in threshing wheat with a separator which is in good condition. To get the best results, the cylinder, es- pecially, should be in good repair and it should maintain a uniform speed. The speed should be fully up to the regula- tion, 750 revolutions for the twenty-bar cylinder or 1075 revolutions for the twelve-bar cylinder. It is seldom that the ordinary varieties of wheat cannot be threshed with four . rows of concave teeth. Before concluding that more are required, see that the teeth are in good condition, and that the cylinder fully maintains the given speed. It is generally admitted that four rows of concave teeth are more effective if a blank concave be placed between the filled concaves, and that the straw is less cut up if the filled concaves be placed together, but some good operators do not agree with . the former statement. How^ever, with this in mind, it will not be difficult for an operator to determine which arrange- ment is best suited to the particular conditions under which his machine is at work. Good operators judge by the work THRESHING WITH REGULARLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR. 1 53 the machine is doing, what changes in the adjustment or arrangement of concaves or in the speed, will improve the work. For example, if the wheat be thoroughly knocked out of the heads and there be an excessive amount of chaff and chopped straw, it would be well to see if the kernels could still be threshed clean from the straw if the concaves were lowered a notch or two, or perhaps one filled concave re- placed by a blank or else the speed lowered slightly. If any of these changes were made, the work of the machine as a whole would be improved, for separation and cleaning are made easier by reducing the amount of chopped straw. The adjustable-chaf¥er, chaffer-extension and shoe-sieve can be best adjusted while the machine is running, the oper- ator noting how much chaff each is handling, how the wheat is cleaned and the amount of tailings being returned, as ex- plained in Chapter V. The adjustable shoe-sieve should be placed at, or very near, the top, at the fan end and in the fourth hole from the top at the rear end. When the separator is equipped with common sieves, the two-inch lip sieve, D, should be used as a chaffer. Ordin- arily, the three-eighths inch lip sieve, G, will do nice vv^ork as a shoe sieve, and it will remain clean with little or no atten- tion. It should be placed in the second notch at the fan end and third hole at the rear, — from the top in both cases. When *'white~caps," as kernels with chaff adhering to them are called, are numerous, the fifteen-sixty-fourths inch round- hole sieve, H, is the best for removinsr them. It should be 154 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. placed in the second notch and third or fourth hole. Some- times these two sieves are used together and when so used, the former, G, should be placed in the first notch and third hole and the latter, H, in the fifth or sixth notch and the fifth hole. For a screen, either the one-fourteenth by one-half inch oblong" hole, L, or the one-sixteenth by three-eighths inch, K, is suitable, depending upon the size of the kernels of wheat. F'or cockle, the five-thirty-seconds inch round hole screen, I, is the right size. Turkey Wheat. Some varieties of wheat, such as the "Turkey," which is raised extensively in Oklahoma, is very difficult to knock out of the heads and often six rows of con- cave teeth will not thresh it clean from the straw. In this case, one or more three-row concaves of corrugated teeth are necessary. For such grain, the cylinder speed should be kept fully up to the stated number of revolutions. Thresliing Rye. Rye is more easily knocked out of the heads than wheat, and usually two rows of concave teeth are sufficient. When damp, the straw is tough and as it is long, it tends to wrap on the cylinder and beater. To pre- vent this, the cylinder should be run at a high speed — say 800 for the twenty-bar or 11 50 for the twelve-bar. Tough rye straw is more liable to wrap if bruised by the cylinder, and therefore, in threshing damp rye, it is best to use not more than two rows of concave teeth and often these may be left quite low, as the high cylinder speed suggested above THRESHING WITH REGULARLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR. I55 will ordinarily insure threshing it clean from the straw. The writer has seen a separator (not a "Case"), which could not handle damp rye with the usual concave teeth, because of wrapping, do very fair work when all the concave teeth were remioved and a high cylinder speed depended upon for knockine the kernels from the straw. It is a common mistake to use. too many concave teeth in threshing rye. Unless the straw be badly chopped up, this grain is easily separated and cleaned. The same sieves should be used as in threshing wheat, except that the round-hole sieve, H, for removing the white-caps from wheat is not necessary for rye. Thresliino; Oats. Oats, when drv, are best threshed with two rows of concave teeth and, especially if the straw be short, with a cylinder speed somewhat lower than is re- quired for wheat. When they are in this condition, it is easy to thresh them very fast and a machine of medium size often turns out as much as six or seven hundred bushels per hour. When damp, however, oat-straw is very tough and requires a speed of fully 750 for the twenty-bar or 1075 for the twelve-bar cylinder. The adjustable-chaffer and shoe-sieve should be set more open than for wheat. If the separator be equipped with common sieves, the two-inch lip-sieve, D, should be used as a chaffer and the three- quarter inch lip-sieve, F, placed in the second notch and third hole in the shoe. If this sieve be found too fine, as is occasionally the case with large oats, and in fast threshing, the one and one-quarter inch lip-sieve, E, may be used. Any 156 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. of the screens mentioned for wheat are suitable for oats. Since a bushel of oats weighs only a little more than half as much as a bushel of wheat, less wind must be used in clean- ing. Oats that are poorly filled, and consequently very light, cannot be well cleaned without blowing over some apparently good kernels. Upon close examination, however, it will be found that very few of these are more than hulls, which contain no meat. Threshing Barley. In certain localities, sometimes bar- ley is in such condition that it is easily threshed. At other times, however, the "beards" are tough and difficult to knock off from the kernels. To successfully handle such grain, the cylinder- and concave-teeth should be in excellent order. Any teeth that are badly worn should be replaced by new ones. Six rows of concave-teeth may be required and the cylinder-speed should be kept up to fully 750 revolu- tions for the twenty-bar and 1075 for the twelve-bar cylinder separators. In using these means to remove the beards, the straw being brittle, is apt to be badly cut up and, therefore, gives the cleaning apparatus a great deal of chaff to handle. The adjustable sieves should be set as in threshing wheat. By having the front end of the shoe-sieve high and the rear end low, the kernels with beards adhering to them will be carried to the tailings elevator and returned to the cylinder. Another advantage of placing the sieve in this position lies in the fact that when so placed, it lies across the path of the blast, thus forcing the wind through it. The wind. In THRESHING WITH REGULARLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR. 1 57 passing through the sieve, will lift the chaff and enable the sieve to handle the large amount of chaff that comes to it in barley threshing. With brittle barley straw, the regular straw-rack sometimes shakes too much straw through to the conveyor. In this case, as in threshing "headings," the straw-rack should be converted into the Oregon style, men- tioned heretofore. When the separator is fitted with com- mon sieves, the two-inch lip, D, or the one and one-quarter- inch lip, E, should be used as a chaffer and the three- eighths-inch lip-sieve, G, in the second notch and fourth hole as a shoe-sieve. Any of the screens mentioned for wheat are suitable for barley. Threshing Flax. The thresherman should devote some study to the peculiarities of flax if he wishes to do a nice job of threshing. Operators of some makes of separators have great difficulty in threshing flax on account of the straw being composed of tow, and therefore, having great tendency to wind on every revolving thing it encounters. The "Case" separator, having no rotary parts on which flax straw can wind, has always had an advantage in this respect. Flax is usually unbound, and on separators equipped with feeders, the pitchers are apt to throw it upon the feeder-carrier in large forkfuls. The straw, on the contrary, should be fed evenly to the cylinder, for if allowed to pass into the ma- chine in large bunches, it will "slug" the motion down and prevent all parts of the separator from doing good work. When green or damp, it requires close work on the part of 158 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. the cylinder and concave teeth to get the seed out- of the bolls. Usually six rows of concave teeth are required, and the speed must be kept fully up to the 750 for the twenty- bar or 1075 for the twelve-bar, but when dry and in good condition, it is best to run the cylinder at a little less than its normal speed to favor the shoe. Some very good samples of cleaned flax have been taken from separators fitted only with the adjustable sieves. Usually, however, it is necessary to place a sieve underneath the adjustable shoe-sieve to do first-class cleaning. For this purpose, tlie five-thirty-seconds- inch round hole sieve, I, is the correct size. It should be placed in the seventh notch at the fan end and the fourth hole in the rear. This sieve should also be used in the same position in the shoe of machines fitted with common sieves. For an upper sieve, either of the wheat sieves may be used, but the three-eighths-inch lip sieve, G, is preferable to the fifteen-sixty-fourths-inch round hole sieve, H. For a chaffer, the three-quarter-inch lip-sieve, F, works the best of the common sieves. More wind can be used with two sieves in the shoe than with one. Threshing Timothy. Although this seed when properly ripened and cured, is not hard to thresh, it is often in such condition as to render it very difficult for the separator te« handle. It is often cut and stacked when green or damp. When in this condition, the bundles are very solid and they must be properly fed or the cylinder and concave teeth may give trouble. The speed, too, must be fully up to the normal. THRESliING WITH REGULARLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR. I59 750 fof the twenty-bar or 1075 for the twelve-bar cylinder. Six rows of concave-teeth should always be used, as con- siderable rubbing is necessary to loosen the seed from the heads. When the seed is ripe and dry, the cylinder speed may be lowered considerably, and this should be done when- ever possible, as a low speed favors the shoe in handling this small and rather light seed. Often when the seed is well ripened and allowed to stand in the field, especially if in shocks that are not capped, it will be badly shelled in hand- ling so that the amount threshed will be considerably less than the actual yield would be, were it possible to save it all. The adjustable-sieves should be set well closed for tim- othy and a lower sieve must be used to get the seed clean. Either the one-sixteenth-inch round-hole sieve, M, or the sixteen by sixteen-mesh wire sieve, T, are suitable for tim- othy seed, and either may be used successfully, if placed in the seventh notch and fourth or fifth hole. When common- sieveg are used, the three-quarter-inch lip-sieve, F, will be found to be the most suitable for a chaffer and the three- eighth-inch lip, G, is an excellent upper sieve for the shoe. Threshing Biickzvheat. This grain is easily knocked off the straw and one or two rows of concave-teeth are always sufficient. Very often when dry, it is best threshed with all the concave-teeth removed. Buckwheat straw is brittle and it is well to bear in mind that as with other grains, the work of separation and cleaning is easier when the work of the cylinder is not overdone. The speed should be low to pre- l60 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. vent cracking the grain. The sieves should be set the same as for wheat. In locaHties in which sufficient buckwheat is grown to keep a separator threshing for several days at a time, excellent results can be obtained by changing the pul- leys on the cylinder-shaft as for rice, thus making a low cylinder speed possible, while the balance of the machine maintains its normal motion. Threshing Millet. This is the most easily threshed of the ordinary seeds. Usually the normal cylinder speed and four rows of concave-teeth are sufficient to knock out the seed. The adjustable-sieves will ordinarily clean it suffi- ciently. If the separator be fitted with common sieves, the three-quarter-inch lip-sieve, F, should be used as a chaffer, and either the three-eighths-inch lip-sieve, G, or the fifteen- sixty-fourths-inch round-hole sieve, H, used in the second notch and third hole in the shoe. When a lower sieve is desired with either the adjustable- or common-sieves, the one-eighth-inch round-hole-sieve, O, or the five-thirty- seconds-inch round-hole sieve, I, is suitable. Either should be placed in the seventh notch and fifth hole. Threshing Spelt:: or Emmer. This grain is easily threshed and if the directions for threshing oats be followed, no difficulty will be experienced. CHAPTER VII. THRESHING WITH A SPECIALLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR. HIS chapter will deal with those crops, the threshing of which requires a change in, or an addition to, a regularly equipped sepa- rator. It will include the threshing of peas, beans, rice, clover, alfalfa, orchard-grass, Kafir and Indian-corn and peanuts. Threshing Peas. To prevent cracking the peas, it is necessary to run the cylinder at a very much lower speed than is required for threshing grain. To obtain the best results, the twelve-bar cylinder should ordinarily be run at from 400 to 450 revolutions per minute, but when the peas are thoroughly ripened and dry, a lower speed will be better, 300 revolutions being sufficient, at times. Ordinarily the twenty-bar cylinder should be run 290 revolutions per minute, but this speed may also be lessened to nearly 200 revolutions when the condition of the pods permit. To secure this low cylindtr speed and retain the normal motion of the other parts of the machine and of the engine, it is necessary to change the pulleys on the cylinder shaft. The number of concave rows may be two, four or six, as the condition require. The cylinder must be run at a 161 l62 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. certain slow speed as already stated, and when so speeded, more concave teeth are required than if it were allowed to run faster However, since the cylinder speed must be low, a sufBcient number of concave teeth should be used to knock the peas out of the pods. For "blanks", when less than six rows of concave teeth are used, hardwood boards cut to the right length and width and fitted to the concave- circles are preferable to the regular iron-blanks. Since peas are apt to be cracked by the corners on the iron-blank-con- caves or .ofrates. the 2:rates under the beater are sometimes covered with sheet-iron. This should be done where trouble from cracking is experienced. In general, the adjustable chafifer and shoe sieve should be set only slightly more open for the common field peas or for stock-peas than for wheat. If the separator be fitted with common-sieves, the one and one-quarter-inch lip, E, or the two-inch lip, D, should be used as a chaffer, and the three-eighths-inch lip, G, should be placed in the second notch and third hole in the shoe. For a screen, the three- sixteenths by three-quarter-inch oblong hole, P, is best, although the fifteen-sixtv-fourths round-hole wheat sieve, H, works very well in field or "Whip-poor-will" stock- peas. If trouble be experienced because the peas strike the floor of the shoe and bound over into the fan, it can be prevented by covering the front part of the chaffer to a dis- tance of twelve or fourteen inches with sheet-iron. If there THRESHING WITH SPECIALLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR. T63 be much sand or dirt to be screened out, applying the same remedy will cause the peas to be dropped farther rearward and allow the dirt more chance to get through the screen. Returning peas to the cylinder with the tailings is apt to crack them, and therefore, the cleaned peas will contain fewer split ones if the tailings be kept separate. This may be done by opening the bottom of the tailings-elevator and allowing them to run on the ground. Afterwards they may be run through the machine while "cleaning up." Threshing Beans. All that has been said above, in regard to threshing peas, applies equally well to threshing the ordinary white navy beans, and also the larger varie- ties, except, that for the latter, if common sieves be used, the three-quarter-inch lip, F, should be used in place of the three-eighths-inch lip sieve, G, in the shoe. Threshing Soy Beans. Soy beans are difficult to knock out of the pods, and are so hard that they are not easily cracked. Therefore, they can best be threshed with a sepa- rator adjusted and speeded as for wheat. Special Cylinders for Peas and Beans. There are local- ities in which a separator may be kept constantly threshing peas or beans for several days or even weeks at a time. For such machines, it is often advisable to obtain a special cylinder with the teeth spaced for this work. When so equipped, a ''Case" separator will do better work than it would do with the regular cylinder. In fact, its work is then equal to that of the machines designed especially for hulling 164 SCIENCE- OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. beans, while its capacity is much greater. In changing to the special cylinder, it is necessary to procure the special concaves and concave-circles, as well as the cylinder. Threshing Rice. This grain is difficult to thresh clean from the heads without cracking or hulling the kernels. The teeth in a regular cylinder are spaced too closely for ordinary rice threshing, although good work is sometimes done when the teeth have become somewhat v/orn and are consequently thinner than when new. The "Case" rice thresher has the proper spacing of teeth to thresh this grain out of the heads without cracking more than a small percentage. What is said in Chapter III in regard to the proper endwise adjustment of the cylinder and the necessity of keeping the teeth straight applies particularly to rice threshing. In reading that chapter with reference to rice, however, it should be born in mind that a difference exists, from the fact that the space between tlie concave and cylin- der teeth is about three-sixteenths of an inch in the rice machine instead of about an eighth of an inch, as it is in the regular. AVhen the rice is in good condition, tho amount hulled and broken should not exceed five per cent., but when the grain is ''sun-cracked", the percentage may be somewhat larger. The condition of the grain will deter- mine the number and position of the concave teeth, two, four or six rows being used as required. Besides requiring a special spacing of the cylinder and concave teeth, the cylinder speed must be lower for rice. THRESHING WITH SPECIALLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR. 165 than for ordinary grain. The twelve-bar cylinder-speed for rice should be 900 revolutions per minute and in order to give the proper speed to the other parts of the separator, it is necessary to have the special pulleys on the cylinder shaft. These are sufficiently larger than the regular pulleys to allow the cylinder to run at the desired low speed, while maintaining normal speed of the other parts of the separa- tor. In the same manner, the twenty-bar cylinder speed for rice should be from 575 to 600 revolutions, and to obtain this, a corresponding change in all the pulleys on the cylinder shaft must be made. More rice is apt to be cracked the first few days a new separator runs, than will be afterwards, when the cylinder teeth have become worn smooth. For rice the adjustable chaffer and shoe-sieve should be set in the same position and with about the same opening as for oats. Rice is considerably heavier, however, and will stand the extra amount of wind required to blow out its heavy chaff. When common sieves are used the chaffer should be the two-inch lip, D. The three-quarter-inch lip- sieve, F, placed in the second notch and third hole gives excellent results as a shoe-sieve. For a screen, the one- fourteenth by one-half-inch oblong-hole, L, is best, ordi- narily. When the rice is so small that this screen lets too much through, the one-sixteenth by three-eighths-inch oblong-hole, K, may be used. Hulling Clover. The process of removing clover seed l66 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. from the heads or tops of the plant Is usually called ''hull- ing," instead of ''threshing." A special attachment is made for "Case" separators, for use in hulling clover. This attachment consists of four narrow three-row concaves filled with corrugated teeth, one special blank concave and special sieves. All twelve rows of teeth should be used and the blank placed in front. If the seed be not threshed clean from the heads at the regular speed, with the twelve rows of teeth set clear up, run the cylinder a little faster. While doing this, the belts driving beater, crank and fan may be left a little loose so they will not drive these parts too fast. Clover must be very dry to be well threshed by any machine and when threshing from the field is usually not in condi- tion to be hulled before ten or eleven o'clock in the morning. From three to six bushels per hour is fair work with a m.edium size separator in dry clover of an average yield. The machines built especially for hulling clover have only about half the capacity of the "Case" separator. Good cleaning has been done with the adjustable-sieves alone, but ordinarily, it will be found much easier to pro- duce clean seed if a sieve be used in the shoe below the adjustable one. For this purpose, the three-thirty-seconds- inch round-hole sieve, N, or the twelve by twelve mesh woven-wire-sieve, R, is the correct size. Either should be placed in the seventh notch and eighth hole. The adjust- able shoe-sieve should be placed in the second notch and third hole. When comm.on sieves are used, the three-quar- THRESHING WITH SPECIALLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR. 167 ter-inch lip, F, makes a suitable chaffer, and the three- eighths-inch lip-sieve, G, is the best as an upper-sieve in the shoe. The latter should be placed in the first notch an-d first hole and the lower shoe-sieve should be of the same size and placed in the same position as given for adjustable- sieves. Three sieves have been used in the shoe for clover, but few operators can make three sieves do better than two. The *'Case" recleaner is sometimes used in hulling clover and when fitted with the proper sieves, it will thoroughly clean very weedy seed. Thresh hig Alfalfa or Lucerne. The same rules which govern the hulling of clover apply in a general way to the threshing of alfalfa, although it is easier to rub the latter out of its pods than the former out of its heads. The clover concaves are sometimes used, but more often one or more of the regular three-row concaves filled with corrugated teeth are all that is required. The sieves may be the same and set in the same way as for clover. Often a weed known as dodder or love-vine, grows with alfalfa and its seeds are usually enough smaller than the alfalfa seed to allow the greater part of them to be removed by screening. The most suitable screen for this purpose is the one-tv/entieth-inch round-hole, X. Threshing Orehard-Grass. In threshing this grass, the cylinder should be run at its regular speed, and six rows of concave teeth, set well up, should be used. Good work has been done with the adjustable sieves alone, but as a rule, 1 68 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. the seed can be cleaned better by using the three-thirty- seconds by one-half-inch oblong-hole special sieve, U, under- neath the adjustable shoe-sieve. It should be placed in the seventh or eighth notch and sixth hole. The adjustable shoe- sieve should be placed in the second notch and third hole. If common-sieves be used, place the one and one-quarter-inch lip sieve, E^ in. the conveyor. Use the three-quarter-inch lip sieve, F, as an upper sieve in the shoe placed in the first notch and third hole. Use the three-thirty-seconds by one-half-inch special orchard-grass sieve^ U^ below, placing it in the same position as when used with the adjustable one. But little wind is required, and if the grass be reasonably free from weeds, the lower blinds may be entirely closed and the upper ones opened a little. If the grass be damp or dirty, slightly open the lower ones also. From twelve-hun- dred to fifteen-hundred bushels of orchard-grass have been threshed in a day with a mediimi sized machine. Threshing Kafir-Corn. The three principal varieties of Kafir-corn — the white, the red and the black-hulled white, (African-millet), are known by various names, such as "red- top" or "sumac-cane", "milo-maize", "black-amber-cane", "guinea-corn", etc. Any of these may be succes'sfuUy threshed with a "Case" separator. When the machine is kept continually threshing crops of this sort, it is best to use the "Texas" straw-rack, which is made especially for this work. The general directions for wheat may be followed in regard to the cylinder and concaves, speed and cleaning apparatus. THRESHING WITH SPPJCIALLY EQUIPPED SEPARATOR. 169 Threshing Indian-Cojii or Maize. The threshing of Indian-corn is very hard on a separator and the use of a good machine for this purpose is therefore not recom- mended. Some threshermen use a separator which has been discarded for use in regular grain threshing and this arrangement is not objectionable. As the corn is shelled by the machine it must be drier than is necessary for a husker- shredder, or the shelled corn will heat and spoil. Usually the cylinder is run at its normal speed and two rows of con- cave-teeth are used. Often concave-teeth are forged so as to be sharpened on the front edge or else shortened to lessen the amount of power required to drive the cylinder. The fish-backs may be removed from the straw-rack and the risers lowered so that the rack is flat, similar to the special "Texas" rack used for Kafir-corn. Threshing Peanuts. Although a great part of the pea- nut crop has always been removed from the vines by hand, machines are being used more and more each year for this work. The "Case" separator, when fitted with special parts, works very satisfactorily, and the separation is more com- plete with it. than with the machines built especially for hulling peanuts. SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING.- r^'U '-' /^ •i •d • '-' 3 ^,-1 8 f^ ^^ - ^ v^ rt rt " c8 ' 1 /'T^ rt td cd ,- ^ij3 o t< ^H ri a-S' •^'li^.^^.v .'^•Jh 'C'doOOOOOa CO'-O o s J5 g o « ?s w w » \«) vjH "^ ^03 ^H ^iH ^jH *^ ^ -^ VW vr^ v« l-lOll-IIHI-ll-IMi-ltHI-IMC^l-l -rO O (U ON^O CnOO t^\£) O) CNOIi-il-iMi-i M to SS CO lo iH c/D LO Th cow3 cs •<*coinTt-cM oco '^'-^ t- l^ LT u-i rO foCO CO On 0\ r^ -"^ LO ro ro to On O CI M -.^ i_,'vO 'O O M C^ u-> rf 'd- ►HlO MMMIO t-tt-ilOioioioiOlO CHAPTER VIIL FEEDING THE SEPARATOR. HE importance of having a separator properly ^) fed was generally realized more fully in the old days when all machines were fed by hand and the power was furnished by horses, than at present. Then it was evident that some men could feed more grain to a thresh- ing cylinder in a given period, at the same time letting the horses do their work easier, than others less skilled in the art of feeding. To-day, as in the past, to get the best results from a separator, it must be fed so that the cylinder maintains a uniform speed. Feeding by Hand. To become a good hand feeder, con- siderable experience and practice are required. A good feeder tips his bundles well up against the cylinder cap, turning flat bundles up on edge, and always holding them from the under-side so that the cylinder may take from the top. But a slight movement is necessary to spread a bundle, and in fast threshing, feeding from both sides, each bundle should be fed almost entirely on its own side, keeping the cylinder full its entire width and having each bundle in position before the last of the preceding bundle has passed into the cylinder. A good feeder will keep the straw-carrier 171 172 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. evenly covered with straw, and will watch the stacker, tail- ings and grain elevators and know the moment anything goes wrong. Self-Feeders. A separator equipped with a feeding at- tachment may be spoken of as a "self-feeder," but properly speaking, the attachment itself is a ''feeder," not a "self- feeder," because it feeds the separator, but does not feed itself. Attaching the Feeder. Remove feed tables, hopper-arms and foot-board, if they be on the machine. A wagon placed in front of the separator will afford a convenient means of supporting feeder head while bolting it in place. When the head is bolted in position, the "notched bottom" and "re- tarder bottom" may be put in place. The plate of the latter must rest on top of the concave so that no ledge is formed. Any man who has tried feeding a cylinder by hand when the feed board had slipped off the concave, will understand the importance of this. The carrier is held by the notches pro- vided for it on the head, by pins. Slack for hooking the sprocket chains of the rake may be obtained by partly folding the carrier. When all pulleys, including the tightener and governor, are fastened in place, all the bearings are oiled and the governor adjusted according to the directions given below, the feeder is ready to run. After attaching a feeder, it is well to try the cylinder for end-play, for it may be that the ironsides supporting cylinder boxes have been sprung enough to cause too much end-play FEEDING THE SEPARATOR. 173 or else press the boxes so hard against the hubs of the cylin- der heads as to cause heating. Folding Feeder Carrier. The carrier is folded out of the way for transportation. The center-board must be removed and the sprocket-chains of the rake hooked up before folding. FIG. 45. SECTIONAL VIEW OF "CASE" FEEDER. Oiling. The places to be oiled are the cranks, the two large crank boxes, the two small crank boxes, two carrier shaft coxes, shaft at outer end of carrier, tv/o wood boxes of hopper-bottom, tightener-pulley stud and the stud on 174 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. which the idler pulley runs. The friction band of governor should not be oiled after it becomes smooth. The Governor drives the feeder by means of a friction band, v^^hich is clamped over a friction pulley, by means of the centrifugal action of the weights. The spring tension on these weights should be such that the feeder will not start until cylinder is very near its normal speed. In starting a new feeder any paint that may be on the inside of friction band and on the face of the friction pulley should be care- fully removed and the surface of both scoured with emery- cloth or fine sand-paper until smooth and bright. A very little oil may be used the first few days, but when once properly adjusted, it will not req-uire any further lubrication. The best adjustment of the governor will be found to be as follows : First adjust the friction band so that the weight arms may be pulled out about half way by hand. Then set the weights about one-half inch from the ends of the arms and give the spring but little tension when the weights are in and the band is loose. The final adjustment of the spring can best be made by trying- it and setting it to suit the speed. Wrench 5548T will be found convenient in adjusting the spring. Speed. With the regular cylinder speed of 750 revolu- tions for the 20 bar and 1075 revolutions of the 12 bar cylin- ders the knife-arm crank of the feeder will make 258 revolu- tions per minute. The retarder blades should be driven from the carrier-rake drive shaft and when so driven, will FEEDING 'liil:. biii'ARATOR. 175 make 27 turns per minute, with the belt driving stud shaft on the inner pulleys or 33 turns with belt on outer pulleys. As a change in the speed of carrier-rake is sometimes desir- able, special sprockets have been provided which give a range of speed as shown in the following table. ier i-'low, (Belt on Inner Fast, (Belt on Outer .^.2 'S Pulleys). Pulleys). CO •■a ^0 t^r:; „ «i.^ •(-H-O _, "H . . -M Siv^ OM cu g . r oV2 0) H • c r; 5 ^^- .a o-^ .,'^< -a 5-^ • ^ 4^ '^' -1 S-i ' '^ .• 0^ c ,• ^. tw S^ , -r:^ ,• ot; a •«■+-! d 0. ^ t'^+^ K t> t- ci -^ -^ tj t- tJ C3 "JT "^ j/3 a ~ a; u •i* c:^ K O) t. 73 .d Oi CiM J^ ;^ W K ^ .OJ !>Ka^ kS «;5MO C^w'Oi >> 532iT 5447T 230 230 07 54.45 290 290 84 68.25 5324T ASMTT 263 264 76 61.75 331 330 96 78. A5324T 5447T 230 230 80 65. 290 290 101 82. A5324T A5447T 263 264 92 74.75 331 330 116 94.25 36FS A5447T 263 264 92 74.75 331 330 116 94.25 Note: Sprockets 5324T (24 teeth), and 5447T (7 teeth), are regular, and A5324T (20 teeth), and A5447T (8 teeth), are special. The number of revolutions per minute is given in each case. The above has reference to feeders previous to 1907. On feeders built in 1907 and later, having the straw governor, sprocket 36 FS is regular. 1/6 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. 1 Tl o c< T) 'O ( ) o 2 ^ o P ^ w (U ^ o JD 13 o a; S"n 3 C CO O U-1 11 CJ u "3 "513 ^ ^ I ^ fi tf> CJ oj o (L) (U ^ >. >-. ^ >>>,>. O H .S.S.2 cd cd cd oj a; 11 3 3 3 P-i Pm P-i ^ a; dj
  • P-I i-< o i-i (-1 CN 0) r< M (-H H-l M fo O n J ^ "„^ ::i^ ?g>'*':;^:;^ V— < rt 00 o^ cy< m \n \n lO lO P) N CO to H M . O 1—1 (U N^NH;NfI >^ CO 0^ ro M ro a> ON M Cj ON HH r^ M O P -sh o h- 1 a! CO -Il-Jl-^ •^ -< T< J-( ^ w -*r^ i-( vo O O Ox fO ^ UO w M- rl O O 0^ CO CN M 3 in lo -® — -^ 4 i (^ <>—<> j-^-il -^' •Zf "i j'/"|*-r 'hi' JS^ ill^ ^>- FIG. 50. LEATHER BELT LACINGS. Lacing Stitched Canvas Belt. A stitched canvas belt, though highly satisfactory in other respects, is often con- demned because the lacing will not hold. It can, however, THE BELTING OF A SEPARATOR. 207 be laced in several ways that are satisfactory. In any event, the holes for the lacing must be made with an awl and not with a hollow punch, which cuts off many strands and greatly weakens the belt. The tine of an old pitchfork makes a very good awl for this purpose and the oval shape will be found convenient. The holes must not be nearer the end than seven-eighths of an inch or nearer the edge than five- eighths of an inch. The lacing illustrated we believe the best for canvas stitched belts, and we advise any thresherman having the running of these belts in charge to practice making this lac- ing" some rainy day until he can make it without difficulty. It is a hinge lacing which allows it to pass around small pulleys and tighteners without straining. The ends of the belt are protected against fraying. In the example illustrated, there are twenty-eight strands of lacing connecting two ends of the belt. The illustrations show a 5-inch belt, the size used to drive the wind stacker. To make this lacing, first select a good lace, not too thick. three-eighths of an inch ^,^^ ^^^ location of holes for wide and 7 feet 8 inches lacing canvas belt. long for 5-inch belt. Lay out the holes as shown in Fig. 51. Begin at one edge of the belt, passing the lace up — ©• -ri- — - -i- -a- 4-1 2o8 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. through the outside hole in one end and then down between the ends of the beh and up through the hole in the other end of belt. Notice that the lace passes twice through each hole. When the ends of the lace have been put through the holes, both must be passed between the ends of the belt to the ^.-^i KiiJi^^iifliii'tir'"'*^ D STITCHED CANVAS BELT LACINGS c FIG. 52. Opposite side, as shown in A. When this is done, put the ends through the same holes again, then pass them both between the ends of the belt to opposite side as at B. One end should not be put through two holes in succession and both ends of the lace must he passed through between THE BELTING OF A SEPARATOR. 209 the ends of the belt to the opposite side before either is put through the hole. Continue in exactly the same manner as at C, until the lacing is finished as shown in D. When lacing is complete the appearance is exactly the same on both sides, the straight strands being on one end of the belt on one side, and on the other end on the opposite side. Care must betaken to keep lacing as near the sape tension through- out the width as possible, so that one edge will not be tighter than the other, in which case the belt would be crooked and not run true. For the same reason a tr}'- square should be used in cutting off the ends of the belt. 210 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. BELTS FOR CASE SEPARATORS. NAME u O u am i) 3 ■i-> as •S '$ a Crank and Beater 20-Bar I2-Bar I2-Bar 20-Bar I2-Bar Both 20- Bar i2-Bar Both Steel Wood Both Both Both Steel Steel Leather Leather Leather Leather Leather Leather Leather Leather 6" A" A" 18' 4" 16' II'' Crank and Beater Crank and Beater 16' 2" Fan 19' II" 18' 6" Fan Elevator 14' \i" 15' 2%" 11' 11^'' Elevator Grain Auger Grain Auger • I2-Bar 20-Bar Wood Both j Leather 2K" 12' 3" Shoe Shake 20-Bar 20-Bar i2-Bar 20-Bar Both I2-Bar 20-Bar 20-Bar Both Steel Wood Both Both Both Both Steel Wood Steel Leather Leather Leather Leather Leather Rubber Rubber Rubber Rubber 2'' 2" A" 4" 2" 5" 5" 4' 11^'' 5' 3" 14' A" 15' A" 8' 1" Shoe Shake Feeder Drive Feeder Drive Feeder, small Wind Stacker Drive 34' 10" 36' 6'' 38' 0" 28' 0" Wind Stacker Drive Wind Stacker Drive Wind Stacker Drive, geared Wind Stacker Drive, geared I2-Bar Wood Rubber <' if 0" Wind Stacker Drive, geared 20-Bar Wood Rubber <' 28' 7" Combined Stacker Drive 20-Bar Steel Rubber <' 37' 0" Combined Stacker Drive I2-Bar Both Rubber <' 35' 5" Combined Stacker Drive. 20-Bar Wood Rubber <' 38' 6" Both Steel Rubber '<' 28' 3" Combined Stacker Drive, geared Both Wood Rubber <' 3o' 0" Both Steel Rubber 2" 11' II" Wind Stacker Turret Drive i2-Bar Wood Rubber 2" II' 9" 20-Bar Wood Rubber 2" 13' 4" Combined Stacker Turret Drive Both Steel Rubber 2%" 14' 10" Combined Stacker Turret Drive Both Wood Rubber 1%" 16' 6" Attached Stacker Drive i2-Bar Both Rubber A" 31' 0" Attached Stacker Drive 20-Bar Both Rubber A" 32' 8" Attached Stacker Drive, geared. Both Both Rubber A" 25' 5" Attached Stacker, short Both Both Leather 1" 6' 5" Attached Stacker, long Both Both Leather 2^'' 19' 2" Common Stacker Both Both Both Both Rubber Rubber 3" 3" 22' 3" 35' 0" Independent Stacker CHAPTER XIII. THE pullp:ys of a separator. ULLEYS are usually held in place on the shafts either by taper-keys or by set-screws. Sometimes straight keys or ''feather" keys, as they are called, are used, but as these only prevent the pulley from turning, set-screws or other means must be used to secure the pulley against sliding on the shaft. When used with feather-keys, set-screw^s are placed so their points rest on the key and thus do not score or mar the shaft. Taper Keys. A taper key when properly fitted, holds a pulley very securely. To do this, however, such a key must be the same width throughout its length and accurately fit the slots or ''seats" cut for it on the shaft and in the pulley. The thickness should vary to correspond with that of the key-way in the pulley. A key should be driven in hard enough to be safe against working loose, but when well fitted, it is not necessary to drive it so hard that it may not be readily removed. The hubs of most of the pulleys on the, machine run against the boxes, and in keying these, about 1/32 of an inch end play should be allowed the shaft, to prevent danger of heating from the pulley rubbing too hard against the end of the box. A key that is too thin, but other- 212 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. wise fits properly may be made tight by putting a strip of tin or sheet-iron between it and the bottom of the way in the pulley. Drawing Taper Keys. A taper key can usually be re- moved by driving the pulley toward the thin end of the key. Often, however, the pulley cannot be driven a sufficient dis- tance to loosen the key because of its coming against a box or another pulley. If the end of the key projects beyond the hub, it may be removed by catching it with a pair of horse- shoe pinchers and prying with them against the hub, at the same time hitting the hub with a hammer so as to drive pulley on. Sometimes the end of a key may be caught with a claw hammer and loosened by driving on the hub of pulley as explained. If a pulley is against the box and key cut off flush with the hub, it may be necessary to remove the shaft, drive the pulley on until the key loosens or if key-seat be long enough, a ''drift" may be used from the inside. Covering Pidleys. The smaller pulleys on which the belts are likely to slip are covered or lagged with leather or other similar material. The important thing in covering any pulley is to get the leather tight, because it will soon come off if there be any slack in it. Nailed Covers. Some pulleys are cast with recesses in their rims for the insertion of wooden wedges. These pul- leys are easily lagged because the covers are fastened, simply by nailing to the wooden wedges. To re-cover a pulley fitted with wooden wedges, take off what remains of the old THE PULLEYS OF A SEPARATOR. 213 cover, pull out the nails and renew the wedges if necessary. Select a good piece of leather a little wider than face of pulley and about four inches longer than the distance around. Soak it in water about an hour. Cut off one end square and nail it to one pair of the wedges, using nails just long enough to clinch. To stretch the leather, use a clamp made of two pieces of wood and two bolts.- Block the shaft to keep it from turning, and stretch the leather by prying over the clamp with two short levers. The leather should not be stretched around the whole pulley at once, but the clamp should be so placed that there is only sufficient room to nail to the next pair of wedges. Now move the clamp and nail to each pair of wedges in turn, finally nailing the leather again to the first pair before cutting off. Trim the edges even with the rim of the pulley. Riveted Covers. The same method of stretching the leather by means of a clamp may be used on pulleys with riveted covers or they can be covered in the following man- ner : Soak the leather in water for an hour. Cut off one end square, and rivet it on. Then draw the leather around the pulley and mark the next two pairs of holes. Punch holes in the leather a little back of the marks made by the first pair of holes and a little farther back of the marks made by the second pair of holes. Insert the points of two scratch awls through the second pair of holes in the leather and into the corresponding holes in the pulley rim. Using scratch awls as levers, draw the leather very tight and the first pair 214 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. of rivets may be easily inserted. Move the awls to the third pair of holes, insert the second pair of rivets and so on around the pulley. The tines of an old pitchfork drawn down a little at the points and tempered make very suitable scratch awls for this purpose. CHAPTER XIV. BABBITTING BOXES. O babbitt any kind of a box, first chip out all '*! of the old babbitt and clean the shaft and box thoroughly with benzine or gasoline. It is necessary that the box be perfectly clean or gas will be formed from the grease when the hot metal is poured in and leave "blow holes." A Solid Box may be babbitted in the field by covering the shaft with paper, draw it smooth and fasten the lapped ends with mucilage. If this be not done the shrinkage of the metal in cooling: mav make it fast so that the shaft cannot be turned. When this happens it is sometimes necessary to put the shaft and box together in the fire to melt the babbitt or else break the box to get it off. Paper around the shaft will prevent this and if taken out when the babbitt has cooled, the shaft will be found to be just loose enough to run well. The shaft is sometimes covered with smoke or painted with white lead as a substitute for paper. The usual shop practice in manufacturing is to use a mandrel or arbor from one one-hundredth to one sixty-fourth of an inch larger than the shaft to be run in the bearing. Before pouring the box, block up the shaft until it is 215 2l6 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING. in line and in center of the box and put stiff putty around the shaft against the ends of the box to keep the babbitt from running out. Be sure to leave air-holes at each end on top, making a little funnel of putty around each. Also make a larger funnel around the pouring hole, or, if there be none, enlarge one of the air-holes and pour into it. These putty funnels should extend a little above the box so as to give pressure to the babbitt and to allow the metal to fill in, as it shrinks in coolinj?-. The metal should be heated until it is just hot enough to run freely and the fire should not be too far away. When ready to pour the box, do not hesitate or stop, but pour continuously and rapidly until the metal ap- pears at the air holes. The oil hole may be stopped with a wooden plug and if this plug extends through far enough to touch the shaft, it will leave a hole through the babbitt so that it will not be necessary to drill one. A Split Box is babbitted in the same manner except that strips of cardboard or sheet-iron are placed between the twO' halves of the box and against the shaft to divide the babbitt. To allow the ))abbitt to run from the upper half to the lower, cut four or six \^ shaped notches, a quarter of an inch deep. In the edges of the sheet-iron or cardboard which touch the shaft. Insert three or four thicknesses of cardboard called "liners" between the halves of the box to allow for taking up wear. Bolt the cap on securely before pouring. When the babbitt has cooled, break the box apart by driving a cold chisel between the halves. Trim ofif the sharp edges of the i;abbitting boxes. 217 babbitt and with a round-nose chisel cut oil grooves from the oil hole toward the ends of the box and on the slack side of the box or the one opposite to the direction in which the belt pulls. The shaft may be covered with paper, as ex- plained for a solid box, but if this be not done, the babbitt should be scraped to fit the shaft. The ladle should hold eight or ten pounds of l)abbitt metal. If much larger it is awkward to handle and if too small it will not keep the metal hot long enough to pour a good box. A cast-iron ladle will keep the metal hot longer than a wrought-iron or steel one. The 20 bar cylinder boxes each take about six pounds of metal, and the 12 bar cylinder boxes each take two to three pounds. If no putty is at hand, clay mixed to the proper consistency, may be used. Use the best babbitt vou can obtain for the cvlinder boxes. « 1 O 4; w ^o^^Sl S ..5 . . t4 < H Q V B Q < Q .:;.^.2 i- 1- >- ci; djj-i-'^+s+j nca®:ti — ^'^Mt:3>< i-r» m O ^ ^ 0^ O-.OO 00 Os ^ a OsVD Bagger, Number Four 190 Balancing Cj^linder 135 Barley, Threshing 156 Beading Boiler Tubes 91 Beans, Cylinder for 163 Beans, Threshing 163 Beater, The 138 Beater, Removing 198 E'earings, Hot 195 Bearings, Adjustment of Engine 41 Bearings, Lubrication of Engine 35 Belts. Care of 201 B Page. Belts for Governor 57 Belts, Lacing 204 Belts, Lacing a Canvas.... 206 Belts, Leather 202 Belts, Lengths of 210 Belts, The Main 203 Belts, Rubber 202 Belting of a Separator 201 Blinds, The Fan 143 Blower, The 87 Board, The Check 139 Board, The Wind 144 Boiler, The S3 Boiler, Cleaning the S9 Boiler, Using an Old 93 Boiler, Fittings for 83 Boiler, Foaming 87 Boiler, Painting the 89 Boiler, Pressure in an Old. 94 Boiler, Priming 88 Boiler, Temp, of Water in. 83 Boiler, Temp, of Steam in. S3 Boiler, Testing a 93 Boiler Tubes, Expanding... 91 Boxes, Babbitting 215 Boxes, Babbitting Solid ... 215 Boxes, Babbitting Split ... 216 Boxes for Cylinder-Shaft .. 132 Brake Horse Power 61 Brake for the Horse-Power 114 Brasses for Connecting-Rod 41 Brass Fittings, Attaching.. 9 Brick Arcli 31 Broken Water-Glass 17 Burning Coal 29 Burning Straw ol Burning Wood 30 Buckwlieat, Threshing .... 159 Bull-Pinion Boxes 112 Bull-Pinion Shaft 115 Burdon Tube 85 C Cable, The Use of 51 Calculating the Horse-Power 61 Calculating Grain in Wagon - Box 193 Cannon-Bearings, Oiling ... 95 c Page. Canvas Cover for a Separa- tor 198 Canvas, Stitched, Belt 206 Care of a Separator 197 Castings for Horse-Powers. IIS Center-Head Packing 66 Centers, Finding the Dead. . 72 Chain for Grain Handlers.. 192 Chains for Engine. Steering 48 Chain for Tailings Elevator 150 Check-Board 139 Check-Valve 25 Check-Valve, Regrinding . . 26 Cleaning Apparatus of Sep- arator 143 Cleaning the Boiler 89 Cleaning the Tubes 91 Clearance for Engine 43 Clinkers 30 Clover, Hulling 165 Clutch, Friction 96 Clutch, Adjusting Friction.. 97 Coal, Firing with 29 Connecting the Equalizers.. 109 Connecting-Rod Brasses ... 41 Common Sieves 145 Common Sieves, List of . . . . 147 Common Sieves, To Insert . 145 Compound Cylinder, Taking Apart 66 Compound Engines 63 Compound, The Woolf 64 Compound Valve, Setting. . 80 Concaves, The ICo Concaves, Adjustment of . . 13 8 Concaves, Setting the 136 Concaves, Special 137 Conveyor, The 139 Conveyor Extension 145 Conveyor, Removing the ... 199 Combination Stacker 184 Combination Stacker, Attach- ing 184 Combination Stacker, Oiling 186 Combination Stacker, Ope- rating 185 Common Stacker 177 Contents of "Wagon -Box. .. . 193 Cost of Oils 36 Covering Pulleys 212 Cracking Grain 133 Cross-Head Adjustment 43 C Page. Cup, "Ideal" Grease 36 Cushion in Cylinder, Steam. 55 Cut-Off, Steam 55 Cut-Off for Woolf Gear, Even 80 Cylinders, Balancing 135 Cylinder Boxes 132 Cylinders, End-Play of 132 Cylinders, for Engines 53 Cylinders, Lubrication of Engine 35 Cylinder Pulleys, Separator. 131 Cylinder, Separator 129 Cj^linder, Special Separator. 135 Cylinder, Speed of Separator 131 Cylinder Teeth, Separator.. 129 Cylinder Teeth Tracking, Separator 133 Cylinder Speed, Ascertaining 130 D Dead-Centers, Finding the.. 72 Descending Hills 50 Differential Gear 99 Differential 'Gear, Locking.. 100 Differential-Gear, Oiling . . , 101 Disturbing Valve-Settings.. 75 Dividing Clearance 43 Drawing Taper Keys. 212 Dressing for Belts 203 E Eccentric Strap, Adjusting.. 45 Elevator, The Tailings 148 Emmer, Threshing IGO End-play, Separator Cylinder 132 Engine Bearings, Adjust- ment of 41 Engine, Attention to a New 12 Engine, Compound 63 Engine Cylinder 53 Engine, Fittings for 9 Engine, Handling the 47 Engine, Horse-Power of. . . 58 Engine Proper 53 Engine, Setting the 49 Engine, Starting a New.... 11 Engine, Starting on Road.. 48 Engine, Starting Traction Parts 11 Engine, Steaming Up 10 Engine, Steering the 48 Engine Tender 103 Engine Tender, Attaching.. 104 E Page. Engine Tender Wheels 105 Engine, Oiling the 10 Engine Valve Gear 69 Equal Leads, Woolf Gear... 80 Equalizers. Connecting .... 109 Exliaust Nozzle 33 Exhaust Ports 54 Extension, The Conveyor . . 145 Expansion of Steam 55 Expanding Boiler Tubes.... 91 F Fan Blinds 143 Fan, Removing 200 Fan Speed 144 Feeder 1T2 Feeder, Attaching 172 Feeder, Folding tlie 173 Feeder Governor 174 Feeder, Oiling the 173 Feeder, Speed of 174 Feeding the Separator 171 Feeding by Hand 171 Feed- Water, The 13 Feed-Water Heaters 27 Figuring the Horse-Power.. 62 Finding the Dead Centers.. 72 Fire, Starting the 10 Firing with Coal 29 Firing with Straw 31 Firing with Wood SO Firing with Various Fuels. 29 Fish-Backs for Straw-Rack 221 Fittings for Boiler 83 Fittings, Attaching Brass.. 9 Fitting up an Engine 9 Flax, Threshing 157 Flues, Cleaning 91 Foaming 87 Folding the Feeder 173 Friction-Clutch 96 Friction-Clutch, Adjusting.. 97 Friction-Clutch, Oiling 98 Fuels. Firing with Various. 29 G Gage-Cocks 13 Gage-Glass 16 Gage, Steam 85 Gearing, Greasing the 96 Gear, The Differential 99 Gearing, Traction 95 Gear, The Valve- 69 G Page- Glass, the Water- 16 Governor, for Engine 57 Governor, Belt for Engine. 57 Governor, Feeder 174 Govei-nor Jumps, If Engine. 5S Governor, Oiling the Engine 57 Governor, Packing Engine. 57 Governor, Speed of Engine- 57 Grates in Separator 139 Grates, Warped Engine 29 Grain, Cracking 133 Grain Handlei-s 187 Grain Handlers, Chain for.. 192 Grain Handlers, Attaching.. 191 Grain, Headed 151 Grain, Quantity of 192 Grain, Threshing 151 Grain, Quantity in Wagon- Box 193 Grain, Weight of 194 Grain Weighers 187 Gravel Hills 51 Greasing the Gearing. 96 Grease-Cup, "Ideal" 36 Greasing the Trucks... 196 Grouters, Special High 52 H Handling the Engine 47 Hand Feeding 171 Hand-Hole-Plate, Packing.. 90 Hard Oil 36 Heater for Feed-Water 27 Heater, Testing the 28 High Grouter 52 Hills, Ascending 50 Hills, Descending 50 Hills. Gravel 51 Holes, Mud 51 Horse-Powers 107 Horse-Powers, Adjusting . . Ill Horse-Powers, Brake for . . 114 Horse-Powers, Bull-Pinions for 112 Horse-Powers, Jacks for . . Ill Horse-Powers, Horses for . 116 Horse-Powers, Lubricating. 108 Horse-Powers. Parts for . . . 118 Horse-Powers, Reversing .. 113 Horse-Powers, Setting the.. 108 Hors«-Powers, Spur Pinions for 110. H Page. Horse-Powei'S, Starting 107 Horse-Power Brake 61 Horse-Power, Calculating... 61 Plorse-Power of an Engine. 60 Horse-Power, Indicated .... 60 Horse-Power, Rated 58 Horses, Work of 115 Hot Boxes 195 Hulling Clover 165 I "Ideal" Grease-Cup ?6 Independent Pump 20 Independent Stacker ITS Independent Stacker, Oper- ating ISO Independent Stacker, Set- ting 1T9 Independent Stacker. Erect- ing 179 Indian Corn, Tliresliing 169 Indicated Horse-Power 60 Injector 1^ Injector Failing to Work. . . 19 Inserting Common Sieves. . . 146 J Jack for Horse-Power Ill K Kafir-Corn, Tliresliing 16S Keys, Taper 211 L. Lacing a Belt 204 Lacing a Canvas Belt 206 Laying up the Separator... 198 Lead of Valve 79 Leather Belts 202 Lengths of Belts 216 Leveling the Separator 125 Link Pveverse, Setting Valve with 80 Lining Up Engine and Sepa- rator 49 List of Common Sieves 147 Loader No. Five 191 Loader No. Six 191 Locking the Differential... 100 Lost Motion in Engine 41 Low Water 14 Lubrication of Engine .... 35 Lubrication of Cylinder ... 35 li Page. Lubrication of Horse-Pow- ers lOS Lubrication of Separator . . 195 Lubrication of the Wind- Stacker 183 Lubricator, Attaching the "Swift" 39 Lubricator, Failing to Work 40 Lubricator, Operating "Swift" 39 Lucerne Threshing 167 M Main-Bearing, Engine 44 Main Drive Belt 203 Main Cylinder Pulleys 131 Maize, Threshing 169 "Marsh" Pump, Starting... 21 Millet, Threshing 160 Mud-Holes 51 Mud-Hooks 52 X Nailed Pulley Covers 212 New Separator, Starting.... 121 Nozzle, Exhaust 33 Number One Weigher 188 Number Two Weigher 1S9 Number Three Weigher . . . 190 Number Four Bagger 190 Number Five Loader 191 Number Six Loader 191 O Oats, Threshing 155 Oiling the Attached Stacker 178 Oiling the Cannon-Bearings 95 Oiling the Combined Stacker 186 Oiling the Engine 10 Oiling the Differential-Gear 101 Oiling the Feeder 173 Oiling the Friction-Clutch.. 9S Oiling the Governor 57 Oiling the Separator 122 Oiling the Tailings-Elevator 150 Oiling the Trucks 196 Oiling the Valve of Engine 39 Oiling the Wind Stacker... 183 Oil, The Cost of 36 Oil, Hard 36 Oil-Pump, Attaching 37 Old Boiler, Testing an 93 Old Boiler, Danger of Using 93 o Page. Operating- the Attached Stacker ITS Operating" the Combined Stacker 1S5 Operating the Independent- Stacker ISO Operating the Swift Lvibri- cator 39 Operating the Wind-Stacker 180 Orchard-Grass, Threshing.. 167 P Packing the Center-Head of Engine 66 Packing the Governor 57 Packing the Hand - Hole Plates 90 Packing the Pump 24 Packing the "Swift" Lubri- cator 40 Packing the Water-Glass. . . 17 Painting the Boiler 89 Parts for Horse-Powers. .. . 118 Peanuts, Threshing 169 Peas, Threshing 161 Peas, Special Cylinder for.. 163 "Penberthy" Injector 18 "Penberthy" Injector, Start- ing 18 "Penberthy" Injector, Fails to Work 19 Piston, Engine 55 Pop- Valve 86 . Port, Exhaust 54 Port, Steam 54 Pounding of an Engine.... 41 Pounding of a Straw-Rack. 142 Pressure for an Old Boiler. 94 Priming 88 "Prony" Brake 61 Pulleys for Cylinder-Shaft. 131 Pulleys, Covering 212 Pulley-Covers, Nailed ...... 212 Pulley-Covers, Riveted .... 213 R Rated Horse-Power 58 Regrinding Check-Valves . . 27 Removing the Beater 198 P^emoving the Conveyor ... 199 Removing the Fan 200 Removing the Rock-Shaft.. 198 R Page. Jwcmoving the Straw-Raek. 199 Removiiig the Shoe 199 Removing the Spur-Wheel Shaft 113 Removing Taper-Keys 212 Repairing and Testing Heat- er 2S Reverse-Gear for Engine... G9 Reversing Geaiing of Horse- Powers 113 Rever.sing Tumbling - Rod Motion 113 Rice, Threshing- 164 Riveted Pulley-Covers 213 Rock-Shaft, Removing 198 Rubber-Belts 202 Rye, Threshing 154 S Safety-Valve 86 Scraping the Tubes 91 Screens i4S Self-Feeders 172 Separator, Belts for 210 Sepai-ator, Belting 201 Separator, Canvas Cover for 198 Separator. Care of 197 Separator Cylinder 129 Separator, Feeding the .... 171 Separator, Laying Up 198 Separator Lubrication 195 Separator, Oiling the 122 Separator, Pulleys iov 211 Separator, Setting I'p 121 Separator, Setting the 125 Separator, Starting a New. 121 Separator, Side-Gear 110 Setting the Concaves 136 Setting the Engine 49 Setting the Horse-Power . . 108 Setting the Independent Stacker 179 Setting the Separator 125 Setting the Separator Up... 121 Setting Separator with Wind 126 Setting the Valve, Compound 80 Setting the Valve, Link- Reverse 80 Setting the Valve, Woolf- Reverse 76 Shoe, Removing the 199 Shoe, Waste at 220 s Page. Side-Gear for Separator.... 110 Sieves 144 Sieves, Adjustable 144 Sieves, Common 145 Sieves, To Insert 146 Simple Engine 53 Slide-Valve 54 Slip of Valve, Woolf-Valve- Gear 78 Solid-Boxes, Babbitting .... 215 Soy-Beans, Threshing 163 Special Concaves 137 Special Cylinder, Rice 135 Special Cylinder for Beans. 163 Special High Grouters .... 52 Special Straw-Rack 142 Speed, Ascertaining Cylinder 131 Speed of Separator Cylinder 130 Speed of Fan 144 Speed of Feeder 174 Speed of Governor on En- gine 57 Speed of Sti-aw-Rack 141 Speed of Tumbling-Rod ... 110 Speed of Wind-Stacker 184 Speltz, Threshing 160 Split-Box, Babbitting 216 Spur-Pinions, Horse-Power. 110 Spur-Wheel Shaft, Horse- Power 115 Stackers, Straw 177 Stackers, Attached 178 Stackers, Combined 184 Stackers, Common 177 Stackers, Independent 178 Stackers, Wind 180 Stack Building 183 Starting Engine ....11 and 47 Starting Horse-Power 107 Starting Injector 18 Starting Marsh Pump 21 Starting Separator 121 Starting Traction-Gearing.. 11 Steam Admission 55 Steam Cut-Off 55 Steam Expansion 55 Steam Gage 85 Steam Ports 54 Steel Cable, Use of 51 Steering the Engine 48 Straining the Feod-Woter . . 13 S Page. Straw, Firing with 31 Straw-Rack 139 Straw-Rack, Fish-Backs . . . 221 Straw-Rack, Removing .... 199 Straw-Rack Pounding 142 StraAV-Rack, Speed of 141 Straw-Rack, Special 142 Straw-Rack, "Texas" Special 168 Straw-Stackers 177 '"Swift" Lubricator, Attach- ing 39 "Swift" Lubricator, Fails to Work 40 "Swift" Lubricator, Operat- ing 39 "Swift" Lubricator, Packing 40 T Tanks 103 Tank-Pump 104 Tailings Elevator 148 Tailings Elevator, Oiling . . 150 Tailings Elevator, Adjust- ing 150 Tailings Elevator Chain ... 150 Taper-Keys 211 Taper-Keys, Drawing 212 Testing Water-Heater 28 Temperature of Steam .... 83 Temperature of Water .... 83 Testing a Boiler 93 Tenders, Engine 103 Tenders, Attaching, Engine 104 Tender-Wheels, Engine .... 105 Teeth for Cylinders 129 Teeth-Tracking 133 "Texas" Straw-Rack 168 Throttle, The 56 Threshing Alfalfa 167 Threshing Barley 156 Threshing Beans 163 Threshing Buckwheat 159 Threshing Emnier leO' Threshing Flax 157 Threshing Headed Grain . . 151 Threshing Indian Corn .... 169 Threshing Kafir-Corn 168 Threshing Lucerne 167 Threshing Maize 169 Threshing Millet 160 Threshing Oats 155 Threshing Orchard Grass . . 167 T Page. Threshing Peas I'ol Threshing Peanuts 169 Threshing Rice 164 Threshing Rye 15-i Threshing Soy Beans 163 Threshing Speltz 160 Threshing Timothy 158 Threshing Turkey-Wheat .. 154 Threshing Wheat 152 Threshing, Waste in 219 Timothy Threshing 158 Tracking of Teeth 133 Traction-Parts, Starting the 11 Traction-Gearing 95 Tubes, Cleaning the 81 Tubes, Expanding and Read- ing 91 Tumbling-Rod, Reversing .. 113 Tumbling-Rod, Speed of ... 110 Trucks, Greasing 196 Turkey-Wheat, Thresliing. . 154 V Valve, Check 25 Valve, Compound 64 Valve-Gear, Engine 69 Valve-Gear, Disturbing .... 70 Valve Lead 79 Valve, Pop Safety 86 Valve-Seat 54 Valve, Setting Woolf Gear. 76 Valve, Setting Link Gear.. 80 Valve, Setting Compound.. SO Valve-Slip 78 Valve, If Disturbed 75 Valve Lubrication C5 Valve, Slide 54 Various Fuels, Firing with. 29 Page. Wagon-Box, Contents of.,. 193 Washing the Boiler 89 Waste in Thresiiing 219 Waste at Shoe 220 Water, Feed 13 Water, Foaming 87, Water-Gauge 16 Water-Glass, Broken 17 Water Glass, Packirig 17 Water-Heater 27 Water, Low 14 Water, Priming 88 Water Tanks 103 Water Temperature in Boiler 83 Weight of Grain 194 Weights of Grains 187 Weigher Number One 188 Weigher Number Two 189 Weighing Bagger "Number Three 190 Wheat. Threshing 152 Wheels for Engine-Tender. 105 "White-Caps" in Wheat... 153 Wind-Board 144 Wind, Setting with 125 Wind-Stacker 180 Wind-Stacker Lubrication. 183 Wind-Stacker Operation ... 180 Wind-Stacker Speed 184 Wind-Stacker Stack Building 183 Wood, Firing with 30 Woolf Compound, The 64 Woolf Reverse - Gear, Set- ting Valve 76 Woolf Valve-Gear 70 JUN 21 1'^^^ fit? « /;■;:/ v"/:'/ /^ ( / ^*/./.CA8t ^ - U5.A. <