'^.l' I *' f im ^^ SciENGB ¥i Dingee-MacGregor Class Book. _^x^_^x^ Gow#tr ^^^^ COPYRIGHT i^EPOsrr. // tX ^^ COPYRIGHTED BY R. T. ROBINSON 1899 And 1911 HAMMOND PRESS W. B. CONKEY COMPANY CHICAGO 'CU2S39GI PREFACE (HE object o£ this book Is to enable the owners and the operators of "Case" Threshing Machinery to become famihar with the construction and op- eration of their engines and machines. The material has been gathered, not only from the author's personal experi- ence, but also from notes taken during visits to the outfits of a large number of the best and most successful thresher- men in various localities. The aim has been to avoid the- orizing and only such statements are made as have been demonstrated practical, by actual field experience. The fact is appreciated that it is impossible to lay down specific rules for operating threshing machinery, under the ever varying conditions of grain, straw and weather, but it is hoped that the suggestions herein embodied will enable a man of ordinary intelligence to operate his machine suc- cessfully, and even to become an expert himself. It is the intention to continue revising it from time to time, and with this aim in view, suggestions and criticisms will be welcomed from threshermen, wherever located, to whom this little volume is respectfully dedicated. CONTENTS For Index, see page 249 PART I. ENGINES Pag-e. Chapter I Pitting Up and Starting- a New Engine 9 II Tlie Feed Water 15 III Firing with Various Fuels 33 IV Lubrication and Adjustment of Bearings 43 V Handling the Engin^e 59 VI The Engine Proper 65 VII The Valve Gear 89 VIII The Boiler , 107 IX The Traction Gearing 121 X Water Tanks 129 XI Horse Powers 131 PART II, SEPARATORS Page. Chapter I Starting and S'etting a Separator 147 " II The Cs'-linder, Concaves and Beater 153 " III The Straw-rack and Conveyor 167 " IV The Cleaning Apparatus 169 " V Threshing with a Regularly Equipped Separator .181 " VI Threshing with a Specially Equipp^ed Separator. .191 VII The Pulleys and Belting of a Separator 207 VIII Lubrication and Care of the Sepai-ator 219 IX Feeding the Separator 227 X The Straw Stackers 233 XI The Grain Handlers 241 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Page Fig-. 1 Left Side Elevation of Case Traction Engine 8 2 Top or Plan View of Case Traction Engine 14 3 Lime in Feed Pipe Nipple 16 " 4 Sectional View of Injector 22 5 Sectional View of Marsii Pump 25 6 Section of Clieck-Valve 28 7 Sectional View of Cast Shell Heater 30 8 Sectional View of Steel Shell Heater ^. . 31 9 Sectional View of Fire Box for Burning Straw 36 10 Sectional View of Fire Box for Burning Oil 38 11 Sectional View of "Ideal" Cup 46 12 Oil Pump Attached 47 13 "Swift" Lubricator 48 14 The Connecting-Rod 51 15 The Cross-Head 53 16 Board used in Babbitting Cannon Bearing 56 17 Cannon Bearing in Position for Babbitting 57 18 Side Elevation of Engine Proper 65 19 Sectional View of Simpl-e Cylinder 66 20 Governor for Engine 72 21 Section of Governor Valve 74 , " 22 Engine Belted to Prony Brake 79 23 Prony Brake 80 24 Sectional View of Woolf Compounded Cylinder 84 25 Face of Compounded Valve 85 26 Pipe to Steam Plugs, Compounded Valve 86 27 Center-Head Packing - 87 28 The Woolf Reverse Valve Gear 90 29 Tram on Disc • . 94 30 Tram on Cross Head 95 31 Tram on Valve Stem 97 32 Sectional Vievv' of Boiler 106 53 Interior of Steam Gage 108 34 Section of Steam Gage Siphon 108 '• 35 Sectional View of Pop Valve 109 36 Fusible Plug in Section 110 37 Cut Showing Cannon Bearing and Gearing 122 38 Friction Clutch of CaSB Engine 123 " 39 Section of Plub Portion of Clutch 124 40 The Differential Gear, Showing Springs 127 41 Top View of Power with Sweeps Attached 133 42 Sectional View of Iron Frame Horse Power 143 43 Sectional Viev\^ of Case Separator 146 44 Cut Showing Space Between Teeth 158 " 45 Right Side of Belt Separator v/ith Feeder and Wind Stacker • • • • • 164 " 46 Left Side of Separator with Feeder, Weigher ar.d Wind Stacker 1"^ " 47 Right Side of Geared Separator with Common Stacker. .166 48 Shoe, Showing Position of Sieve Rods 172 49 Lip Sieves (reduced) 174 50 Sieves and Screens (full size) 175 51 Spacing of Holes in Leather Belts 214 " 52 Belt Lacing with Ends Turned Up 214 58 Lacing for Four Inch Leather Belt ^lo 54 Location of Holes for Lacing Canvas Belt 217 " 55 Stitched Canvas Belt Lacing 218 56 Sectional View of Case Feeder ^^^ 57 Sectional View of Wind Stacker ^3.5 58 Telescoping Device for Straw-Chute ^^^ " 59 Head of Case Weigher 243 Page. Chapter I Fitting- Up and Starting a New Engine 9 ir The Peed Water 15 III Firing witli Various Fuels 33 IV Lubrication and Adjustment of Bearings 43 V Handling the Engine 59 VI The Engine Proper 65 VII The Valve Gear 89 VIII The Boiler 107 IX The Traction Gearing 121 X V7ater Tanks 129 XI Horse Powers 131 CHAPTER I FITTING UP AND STARTING A NEW ENGINE IN packing an engine for shipment it is usual to remove the brass fittings to prevent their being stolen. These, together with the hose, governor belt and wrenches are packed in a box. The rod for the flue scraper (and the straw fork, for straw burning boiler), are placed in the boiler tubes and the hose and funnel for filling' the boiler are placed in the smoke-box. The fire-box, ash- pan, tubes and smoke-box should be examined to insure the removal of all loose parts before the fire is started. Attaching Brass Fittings. In attaching the fittings to the boiler, care should be taken to screw them in tightly enough to prevent leaking. Brass expands more with heat than iron, therefore where a brass fitting screws into iron, the joint will be tighter when hot than when cold: conse- quently should there be a leakage it should be stopped by screwing the fitting in a little further when cold. In screw- ing a pipe into a valve or other fitting, the wrench should be used on the end of the valve into which the pipe is being screwed. When the wrench is put on the opposite end, the valve body is subjected to a twisting strain that is very liable to distort and ruin the seat. The blow-off valve 9 10 SCIENCE OE SUCCESSEUI. THRESHING and other valves about the engine should be so attached that the pressure will be on the under side of the valve seat. Then the packing around the valve stem can leak only when the valve is open, and may be renewed under pressure at any time the valve is shut. A valve when cold should not be too tightly closed, as expansion due to heat- ing will force the valve so hard against its seat as to injure it. Starting the Fire. When the fittings are all in place, fill the boiler with v/ater, by means of the funnel, until the glass gage shows about an inch and one-half of water. This is on the assumption that the boiler is level, and if not, allowance should be made accordingly. The water will run in faster if one of the gage-cocks, the blower or the whistle be opened to allow the air to escape. When coal is to be used as fuel, wood (if available) should be used to start the fire, the grates being kept w^ell covered until steam begins to show on the gage. If wood cannot be obtained for starting the fire, straw may be substituted. Then, if it be desired to hasten the rise of steam, the blower may be started and coal thrown onto the fire. Oiling the Bngine. While waiting for steam, the grease may be removed from the bright work with rags or cotton waste, saturated with benzine or kerosene. The oil holes and cups are usually filled with grease at the factory to keep out cinders and dirt during shipment of the engine. This grease should be removed and the oil holes care- FITTING UP AND STARTING A NEW ENGINE II fully cleaned so that the oil may reach the place it is in- tended to lubricate. All the bearings should be oiled, the oil cups being filled with good machine oil or cylinder oil. Where the oil box is large enough, it should be filled with a little wool or cotton waste in order to keep out the dirt, and to retain the oil. Good cylinder oil must be used in the lubricator or oil pump. It is a good plan in start- ing a new engine, or one that has been idle for some time, to lubricate all bearings at first with a mixture of equal parts of kerosene and machine oil. The engine may be then run a few minutes and afterwards lubricated with un- thinned oil, but it should not be put to work until this has been done. Starting the Engine Proper. When the gage shows about forty pounds of steam, the cylinder cocks should be opened and the engine started, the throttle being opened gradually so that the water which has condensed and col- lected in the cylinder may have a chance to escape. The reverse lever should be handled as explained elsewhere in this book. If the engine does not start when the throttle is opened, possibly the governor stem has been screwed down sufficiently to shut off the steam. This sometimes occurs in transportation. As soon as the engine is run- ning, care should be taken to see that the oil-pump or lub- ricator is started properly. The bearings should be felt of to determine any tendency to heat. In starting the engine, it must be borne in mind that 12 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSI^UL THRESHING the water in the boiler is sufficient for only a few minutes and the pump or injector must be started before the water gets low in the boiler. The steam pressure should now be raised to the blow- ing--off point (say 130, 140, or 160 pounds), to try the pop or safety valve. If it does not open at this pressure, pulling the lever will probably start it. If not, it is out of adjustment and should be re-set, as explained elsewhere in this book. Starting the Traction Parts. When the engine has been run a sufficient time to insure everything being in good running order (if it be a traction engine), preparations may be made for a trip on the road. To do this, the trun- nion-ring of the friction-clutch should be oiled and the shoes adjusted to properly engage the rim of the fly-wheel. Any paint that may be on the long hub of the arm should be scraped off to allov/ the free movement of the ring, which slides thereon, as the clutch is throvv^n in or out of engage- ment. All the traction gearing should now be lubricated, and a quantity of oil poured into the cannon-bearings. Next the stud of the intermediate gear, the bevel pinions of the differential gear, and the bearings of the steering- roller and hand-wheel shaft should be oiled. The steer- ing-chains should be properly adjusted as elsewhere ex- plained. Caution. A new engine should have close attention for the first few days until the bearings become smooth. The I^ITTING UP AND STARTING A NKW ENGINE 1 3 engine has been run in the testing-room at the factory, and it is probable that the bearings are properly adjusted. However, they should be felt of at short intervals, and should one of them heat to any extent, it will be best to loosen it a little. The heating may be caused by grit. A fast speed should not be attempted the first two or three trips on the road, but the engine should be allowed to run below its normal speed until bearings are smooth and the operator becomes accustomed to handling the engine. In order to keep the valve and cylinder well lubricated, during the first few days it is necessary to use three or four pints of cylinder oil in ten hours, the quantity depending on the size of engine. Afterwards the amount may be lessened, but it is essential that cylinder oil be fed continually. ° o o o FTi UJO -u i H go o U, o o o ° 12; a ;? M !2: o H O <: 0!! H w <; u o t-t > ^ < o H CHAPTER II THE FEED WATER THE feed water demands the constant watchfulness of the engineer. It is his first and most important duty to know that there is sufficient water in the boiler at ail times. If he relaxes his attention to it for even a short interval, disastrous results are likely to follow. A modern traction engine is usually fitted with two separate and independent means of feeding water to the boiler. By this arrangement, if the boiler feeder in use be disabled at any time, the other may be put to work without delay. These feeders should receive close attention and each be in condition to work at a moment's notice. If either fails to work properly at any time, it should be repaired immediately. It is essential to use the cleanest water obtainable, as dirty water always causes trouble. It is a good plan to strain the water as it passes into the mounted tank, by placing a cotton grain sack in the hole so that it extends to the bottom of the tank. For this purpose a cheap sack of coarse open texture is the best. The mouth of the bag can be turned over the rim around the hole and tied with a string or strap, but a better way is to have a hoop that just fits over the bag. It is important to see In 1 6 SCIENCE 01^ SUCCESSFUL THRESHING that the suction hose and connections are free from leaks. The pipe nipples, which screw into the boiler at the point at which the feed water enters, should be examined oc- casionally, for with some waters they *'lime-up" in a remarkably short time. This accumulation of lime is shown in the accom- /ft:''- ; 'm; v^ ^— \: ^^^^^^^^^ ^M\. panying cut, which is tu t - r'^--^^' ' i / JIIJ/JI/ reproduced from a pipe ^^::.;:v,„,.._i:s^ii^^^^^^^ nipple taken from a FIG. 3. LIME IN FEED tractiou euginc. When PIPE NIPPLE. necessary to shut down from lack of water, it should be done while the glass shows at least half an inch, as the water-level will fall that much when the engine is stopped, thereby allowing the water in the boiler to settle. What to do when zvater does not shozv in glass. If you find that the water has been allowed to get below the glass gage and lower gage cock, leaving the crown-sheet bare, when the engine has been standing still for a time, bank the fire and leave the engine alone until it cools. If it be working when 3^ou discover the water is out of the glass, the thing to do is, get the front end of the engine up at once. Back the traction wheels into ditch or furrow, run the front wheels up hill or onto a wood or coal pile, or use any means to get the front of the boiler high. If in soft ground there may be time to dig holes for the traction wheels, but be quick about it. In the meantime keep the engine moving THE FEED WATER 1 7 in order to slosh the water over the crown-sheet. When you have the front end of the engine up, if water shows in the glass, start the injector and let it run until the boiler is filled to its normal level. If you are unable to get the engine in such a position that the water shows in the glass, cover the fire with a layer of ashes or earth three or four inches thick. Do not attempt to pull it out, as stirring it up creates intense heat. Having banked the fire, leave the engine alone until the steam goes down. By doing this, you have probably prevented the fusible plug from melt- ing, or, what is vastly more serious, burning the crown- sheet. A crown-sheet that has been burnt is greatly weakened, probably ''bagged" or warped, and the stay- bolts so strained at their threads that it is im.possible to keep them from leaking. The majority of explosions of boilers of the locomotive type are caused by low water and the consequent burning of the crown-sheet. One ex- perience with low water should be a sufficient lesson for all time. Since so much depends upon having sufficient water in the boiler, the gage-cocks and v/ater-glass, which indicate the amount of water, should be kept in first-class order. The Gage-Cocks. These cocks are a more reliable means of indicating the amount of water in the boiler than the water-glass, although not so convenient. The gage- cocks, or "try-cocks," as they are sometimes called, should be used often enough to prevent them from becoming filled l8 SCIENCE OP SUCCESSFUI. THRESHING with lime and should always be in working order. When- ever opened, the steam should be allowed to blow through a sufficient time to clean them. They should then be closed moderately tight, and then, if they leak, they should be opened again to allow any dirt or scale that may have lodged on the seat to blow out. It is not well to force a gage-cock or other valve shut to stop it from leaking, for probably it is leaking because a bit of scale is preventing the valve from ''seating." The forcing simply presses this bit of scale or other foreign matter into the seat and spoils the contact surfaces so the valve will continue to leak until reground. Gage-cocks and other valves on the engine should not be closed very tightly when cold, for when heated, the expansion of the metal will press the valve so tightly against its seat as to injure it. The Water-Gage. The water-gage should be blown out once each day, to clean the glass and prevent the upper and lower connections from getting filled with lime or sediment. To blow out the lower connection, which is the more liable to become clogged, open pet cock and close up- per valve. Then close lower valve and open upper one, which will blow steam through the upper connection and also the glass, thereby cleaning it. On returning to the engine in the morning, or after dinner, be sure that no one has closed the valves of the water-gage during your ab- sence. If this has been done, the glass might show plenty of water, while in reality, the water in the boiler has been THE I^EED WATER 19 reduced to a low level by blowing off or by some other cause. A stoppage in the valves, or connections of the water gage, when the engine is running, can be detected by the water, which will appear quite still instead of mov- ing a little, because of the motion of the engine. The water glass should be kept clean, even if the other parts of the engine be neglected in this respect. A dirty glass indicates that the engineer is careless about one of his most important duties. The glass can be cleaned at any time by wiping the outside and blowing steam through the inside. It is only necessary, in wiping, to see that it is not scratched by sand, metal or the like, for scratches are likely to cause it to break. An old glass with a coating on the inside that steam will not blow out, may be cleaned by removing it from the connections and running a piece of waste or cloth through it with a stick. Touching a glass on the inside with a piece of metal of any kind is almost sure to scratch it so that it will crack when the steam is turned on. Packing the Water-Glass. The best method of pack- ing the water glass is by means of the rubber gaskets made for the purpose. These may be purchased for a few cents. Candle wicking, hemp or asbestos is sometimes used, but any one of these packings is liable to become displaced and cause trouble. The author has in mind a case in which a crown sheet was badly burnt because of the glass not show- ing the true level of the water in the boiler. The candle 20 SCIENCE OE SUCCESSFUL THRESHING wicking, with which it was packed, was forced, by the tightening of the packing-nut, over the lower end of the glass, practically shutting off the water. Broken Water-Glass. In case the water glass breaks when the boiler is under pressure, shut both valves to stop the escape of steam and water. The engine can be run by gage-cocks until a new glass may be obtained. If a new glass be at hand, it may be put in at once, but care should be taken to heat it gradually, for if the steam be turned on suddenly, it will break. Injectors. The injector has, of late years, reached such a state of perfection as to make it the most conven- ient of all the types of boiler feeders. Although economi- cal in itself, it does not equal, in ultimate economy, a pump used in connection with a heater. The question naturally arises : if it be economy to use a heater in connection with the pump, why not with the injector as well? Were the feed water from the injector piped through the heater, but little would be gained thereby, because the injector delivers water so hot, that it would absorb but little additional heat during its passage through the heater. Consequently, the pump, with heater, is the more economical because it util- izes heat from the engine exhaust (which would otherwise be wasted), to heat the water, while the injector heats it by means o{ live steam taken from the boiler. It is not usual, therefore, to pipe the feed water from an injector through a heater. THE ^tZD WATER 21 To Start the ''Penberthy" Injector. With pressure under sixty-five pounds, the valve in the suction pipe should be opened one turn, the steam valve may then be opened wide. The injector will probably start off at once, but should water run from the overflow, the suction valve should be slowly throttled until it "picks up." If hot steam and v/ater issue from the overflow, the suction should be opened wider. A little practice will enable one to set the valve at any pressure, so that it is simply necessary to turn on the steam to start the injector. At a pressure of sixty- five pounds or over, the water supply valve may be opened wide, but it is better partly to close it, as the injector will deliver hotter water when the suppl}^ is throttled. The in- jector must be regulated by the suction valve, and not by attempting to regulate it by the steam valve. The "Pen- berthy" admits of considerable steam variation. At thir- ty-five pounds steam pressure, the valve in suction may be opened as wide as it will stand and steam can rise to over (^ne hundred pounds without further adjusting. What to do when the Injector Fails to Work, See that the suction hose and connections are tight. The delivery pipe may be "limed up" where it enters the boiler. A leaky check valve will keep the injector so hot as to prevent it from "picking up" water. Dirt may be lodged in the chamber where jets "R" and "S" meet, or in the jet "Y," the drill holes or the main passage way. The jets may be coated with lime, and if so, they should be 22 science: 0^ SUCCESSFUL THRESHING steam: soaked in a solution composed of one part of muriatic acid and ten parts of water. Occasionally soak the whole injector. Do not expect an injector to work well, espe- cially at high pressure, if the tank be full of dirt and rubbish. Sometimes an injector will work well for a long time, and then begin to drizzle at the overflow under the same pressure at which it once worked well. This indicates that the passage-ways in jets are either worn or are con- tracted with lime. If re- moving the lime does not remedy the trouble, the overflow valve may leak. To regrind it, remove cap "Z" and spread a little flour of emery, mixed with oil or soap, between the valve "P" and its seat. Then with a screw driver, turn valve 'T" back and forth, which vv^ill grind it to a seat. If the injector be not improved, it is safe to conclude that some of the jets are worn and must be renewed. These are sold separately, and are listed in the thresherman's Supply Catalogs. If in doubt as to which jet is at fault, FIG. 4. SECTIONAL VIEW OF INJECTOR. The: feed water 23 procure all of them and try one after another until the injector works properly. Any unused jets that have not been inserted may be returned. Independent Pumps. This is the name given to pumps for feeding a boiler, which are operated independently of the engine. They are, in fact, small engines in themselves, connected directly to double-acting pump plungers. An independent pump can be run whether the engine is run- ning or not, but as the heater is effective only when the en- gine is running, it is best, on boilers having both pump and injector, to use the injector when the engine is not running. The Marsh pump has an exhaust valve for turning the ex- haust of the pump in with the feed water. This, of course, heats the feed water and renders the pump more economi- cal. If, for any reason, it is desired to use the pump when the engine is not running, the exhaust should be turned in, in order to heat the water before it enters the boiler. At other times, however, we advise engineers to allow the pump to exhaust into the air. The most of the trouble with, these pumps is due to insufficient lubrication, and the successful operators use plenty of cylinder oil. If the ex- haust be turned in at all times, this cylinder oil is carried into the boiler where it accumulates, in some cases in suf- ficient quantities to render it dangerous to the plates of the boiler. Consequently, for this reason and also because the pump is more easily **kept up" when exhausting in the air, we do not advise turning the exhaust into the feed water. 24 SCIENCE O:^ SUCCESSFUL THRESHING Starting the ''Marsh" Pump. Before attaching the lubricator, it is a good plan to pour some cylinder oil into the pipe. To start the pump, first see that the valve in the feed pipe, between the check valve and the boiler, is open, and that t\i& exhaust lever is thrown towards the steam end of the pump. The steam may now be turned on, and if the piston rod does not move back and forth, tap the starter-pins very lightly. It is well to run the pump with- out water until thoroughly oiled, but as soon as it is run- ning smoothly, the suction-hose end may be submerged. Opening the cock with the thread for attaching the sprink- ling hose or the small air-cock in the water chamber will aid the piimp in "picking up" w^ater. When the Pump Will Not Start, i. If the pump does not start when steam is turned on, push the starter- pins alternately, to see if the valve moves easily back and forth. If the valve sticks, do not hammer the starter-pins or force them too hard, but remove the valve in order to locate the trouble. This is done by removing the steam chest heads through which the starter-pins pass, and un- screwing the valve, which is done by holding one end while unscrewing the other, by means of the two special socket wrenches furnished for the purpose. If the pump has been idle for a time, the valve may be rusty or gummy, in which case it should be cleaned with kerosene oil. Before replacing the caps, push the valve back and forth as far as it will go and see that it is perfectly free. Also see that THE FEED WATER 25 the starter-pins are free and have not become loosened or stuck by tight packing. Pull them out as far as they will go. 2. The steam pipe m.ay be obstructed so that the pump does not receive a sufficient supply of steam. 3. Remove the cylinder heads and see that the piston moves freely, and that the nut on the water end of the piston rod is properly tightened. This nut may have worked partly STEAM PIPE STiVRTER PIN ^-^^v^Tm-Y^ / ■ 'ill \ ^ i^nn^-'^'-^r f^/^ 1 1 posr/M^A ' I fJ- - \ FOR t' ' ^^• ' •• ' < "" '' — > i_r (■•• •< .' ., '« i ^ r^ f tT %J \ 1 4 ^ ^ / sucnoM pj>E OO N ^ fed I FIG. 5. SECTIONAL VIEW OF MARSH PUMP. or entirely off, thus preventing a complete stroke. 4. Re- move the steam chest and see that the small "trip" holes near the steam chest and the corresponding holes in the steam cylinder are open. If the pump has been idle for a 26 SCIENCE O^ SUCCESSFUL THRESHING time, these holes are liable to have become stopped with rust. Before replacing the steam chest, see that the pack- ing is in good order. 5. If the pump has been in use some time, or has not been sufficiently oiled, the valve may have become worn and leaky. This is not so likely to oc- cur on the "C" size, as on the smaller pumps. When it does happen, the remedy is a new valve and steam chest. When the Pump will not Lift Water. If the pump runs all right when steam is turned on, but will not "pick up" water, opening the drain cock in the boiler feed pipe will relieve the pressure on the discharge valves, i. See that the suction hose and its connections are free from leaks and that the screen is not covered with rags, waste, leaves or the like. If this hose has been in use for som.e time, see that it is sufficiently firm not to collapse or flatten, and that its rubber lining has not become loosened so as to choke or stop the water supply. 2. Remove the air chamber and look for dirt under the water valves. 3. If the pump has been in use for a time the water-piston packing may leak. Where dirty water is used, this packing must be frequently renewed. Directions for re-packing are given below. When the Pump almost stops after lifting water, the trouble is in the delivery or feed pipe. This may be proved by opening the cock in this pipe which will relieve the pres- sure and allow the pump to run faster. Possibly the angle valve near the boiler has been left closed. The check valve THE FEED WATER 27 in the feed pipe should be examined, for which purpose the valve, between it and the boiler, can be closed. If nothing be found, the stem should be removed from the valve or the plug removed from the tee so as to expose the opening through the pipe nipple which enters the boiler ; probably this pipe will be found nearly filled with lime at the point at which it enters the boiler as shown in Fig. 3, on page 16. This may be cleaned by driving a bolt into it. Of course, the angle valve stem or plug can only be removed when the boiler is cold. Packing the Pump. The successful operation of this pump depends very much upon the manner in which the water piston and other parts are packed. In renewing the piston packing, do not compress it too much. See that it is of sufficient thickness to a little more than fill the space between the inner and outer follower heads. This will allow the packing to be compressed slightly before the fol- lower heads are forced together. On the other hand, if the space between the follower heads be not completely filled, leakage will result. When properly packed, the pis- ton may be readily moved by hand. The nut on the end of the piston rod should be tightened to bring the follower to place. The packing between the steam chest and the cylinder should be made of heavy manilla paper or light rubber, and must be patterned from the planed surface top of the steam cylinder (not the lower part of the chest), and all holes must be carefully duplicated, so that the drilled 28 SCIENCE O? SUCCESSFUI. THRESHING holes at each end are wholly unobstructed at their points of register with the corresponding holes in the chest. The packing under the valve plate must be patterned from the faced top of water cylinder, and the packing over the valve plate from the bottom face of the air chamber. The steam cylinder head must not be packed with anything thicker than heavy paper or the thinnest rubber. If a thick gasket be used, the piston will overrun the ports, and its operation be interfered with. Check-Valves. A check-valve allows the water or other fluid to flow in one direction, by the valve rising from its seat, but when water attempts to "back up," or flow in the opposite direction, the valve prevents this b}' closing. With any style of boiler- feeder, a check- valve is placed in the feed-pipe, and usually near the boiler. Between the check-valve and boiler is placed a globe or an- gle valve which may be closed, allowing the check valve to be opened when the boiler is under steam pressure. If the pump or injector shows, by heat or other indications, that water and steam are "backing up" through the feed pipes from the boiler, it indicates that the check-valve is not acting. When the FIG. 6. SECTION OF CHECK VALVE. THE FKED WATER 29 valve "sticks" and will not close, a very slight tap may cause it to ''seat," but if this does not, close the valve be- tween it and boiler, then take off the cap and remove dirt or scale that may be preventing it from closing tightly. If no foreign matter be found, examine the valve and seat to determine if the contact surfaces be perfect. If scale be found adhering to either, it should be removed, but if it be "pitted/' regrinding is necessary. Although a slight tap will often cause a check-valve to seat, it is poor practice to constantly or violently hammer the valve, as the seat may be distorted, and the entire valve ruined thereby. Many valves are also distorted and ruined because a wrench has been used on one end while screwing a pipe into the other. Many valves are burst during cold weather by frost. To prevent this, the angle valve near boiler must be closed and the check-valve and pipe drained. Regrinding Check-Valves. Many engineers discard leaky valves as worthless, in ignorance of the ease with which they may be re-ground. The swing check is easily re-ground without disconnecting it from the pipe. To re- grind, unscrew angle plug, put a little flour of emery, mixed with oil or soap, on the bottom of valve and turn it back and forth with a screw driver until the contact surfaces are perfect. Peed'Water Heaters. A feed-water heater heats the feed water delivered by the pump, by passing it over sur- faces heated with exhaust steam from the engine. In this 30 science: 01^ SUCCESSFUL THRESHING way, the feed water carries into the boiler the heat it has absorbed from the exhaust steam, which would otherwise be wasted. The interior of the "Case" heater with cast shell is shown in section in Fig. 7. Tubes (three or more in number), are tightly calked in the inner heads and inner pipes pass through the tubes, their ends being held in place by sockets cast on the outer heads. These heads are se- cured by four stud bolts, which screw into the heater body, .OUTER HEAD ■INNER HEAD / STEAM -^ „/'NN £f^HEAD HEATER SHELL } r \ -^ i } ' "inner PIPE ' "i OUTER TUBE EXHAUST . Br::r-T8 WATER TO ^10 STACK C INNER PIPE I OUTER TUBE ^DRAIN INNER HEAD / HOT WATER DRAIN- TO BOILER '■ QUTER HEAD' DRAIN FIG. 7. SECTIONAL VIEW OF "cASE" CAST-SHELL HEATER. and are made tight by gaskets. The exhaust from the en- gine enters the heater from the cylinder, surrounding the tubes, and passing out to the smoke stack at the opposite end as shown. The water from the pump enters through the head at the right and passes out at the other end into the pipe leading to the boiler. In going through the heater, the water is obliged to pass through the annular spaces formed by the inside of tubes and the outside of pipes, in films about one-eighth of an inch thick. Two cocks are screwed into the bottom of the heater, one of which drains the steam space and the other the THE FEED WATER 31 water space. The steam space may be drained before starting the engine, in order to prevent water from being thrown from the smoke-stack. Both water and steam space must be drained in cold weather, to prevent freezing. The "Case" steel-shell feed-water heater, as shown in Fig. 8, is constructed in the same manner as a small tubu- lar boiler. The tubes are expanded in the flanged heads at each end of heater. The exhaust inlet and outlet elbows are clamped tight against the ends of heater by a long bolt FIG. 8. SECTIONAL VIEW OF ' CASE STEEL-SHELL HEATER. (or bolts) passing from one to the other. The feed water surrounds the tubes and the exhaust steam passes through them. The hot water is discharged to the boiler on the un- der side of heater, but it is taken from the top, the water passing behind an annular flanged plate that leads it to the outlet. Only the pressure of exhaust steam is brought to bear against the packing joints. This form of heater has proved to be very efficient, and the interior is readily acces- sible by removing the exhaust inlet and outlet elbows. 32 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING Testing and Repairing the Heater. If you suspect that the heater leaks, on engines with independent pumps, it may be tested as follows : First drain the exhaust space by opening the cock ; then start the pump, but let the engine stand still. If water continues to issue from this cock, it shows that the heater leaks. Repairs are easily made by removing the heads. The tubes in either style of heater may be tightened or renewed if necessary, in exactly the same manner as those in the boiler. CHAPTER III FIRING WITH VARIOUS FUELS {0 maintain a uniform steam pressure with any kind of fuel, the draft should be sufficient and the fire should be supplied with air from below. No cold air should be allowed to get to the tubes except by passing through live coals that may ignite fresh fuel. The cone screen in the stack should be straight and the exhaust noz- zle should be of the proper size and pointed straight with the stack. This latter is of great importance. The ash pan must not be allowed to fill up, or warped and melted grates are sure to result. There is no excuse for allowing the ash pan to fill up, and a good engineer never permits it to do so. With coal, wood or oil, the firing is done by the engineer, but with straw for fuel, it is usual to have an extra man or boy for this purpose. Hour to Fire zuith Coal. Keep the grates well covered, but with as thin a fire as possible. Do not throw in large lumps of coal or put in very much at a time. A thin fire lightly and frequently renewed is the most economical. The engine should be allowed to blow off once a day to see if the steam gage and pop valve agree, but if the pop valve 3 33 34 science: of succe:ssi^ui. Threshing frequently opens, it is an indication that the fireman is either careless or unable to control his fire. The best way to check the rise of steam is to start the injector, but if the boiler be too full, the damper may be closed. Another way is to open the fire door about an inch, leaving the damper open, but the door should never be held open more than this amount. This will do no harm to tubes or boiler, but while the engine is running the door should never be opened when the damper is closed. When the engine is to be shut down for any length of time the smoke-box door may be opened to check the fire. Some grades of coal will form clinkers that cover the grates and shut off the air supply. These must be kept out by removing through the fire door, but do not use the poker when it can be avoided, or keep the door open longer than is necessary, since stirring the fire only makes matters worse. When troubled with clinkers, make it a point to clean the fire at noon or at any time the engine may be stopped. The tubes should be cleaned at least once a day. One or two of the bricks for straw burners can be used to advantage in burning coal. They make better combus- tion with poor coal, render the fire easier to control and by maintaining a more uniform heat in the fire-box, are easier on the boiler. How to Pire with Wood. The manner of firing with wood depends entirely upon the fuel, and must be learned by experience. When the wood is soft, or the sticks small I^IRING WITH VARIOUS I^UEI^S 35 or crooked, it will be necessary to lay the pieces as com- pactly as possible, and keep the fire-box full all the time. Straight, heavy sticks of hardwood, on the other hand, must be placed so that the flames can pass freely between them. The rear draft door should be opened wide and the front one opened only enough to admit sufficient air. See that the front end of the grates (next to the tube sheet) is kept well covered. If cold air be allowed to pass through to the tubes at this point, the draft will be destroyed. To get satisfactory results, it is often necessary to cover the front end of the grates, for a space of eight inches, with a "dead-plate." A wood fire requires an occasional leveling, but as with coal it is a good plan not to use the poker more than is absolutely necessary. In leveling do not disturb the hot coals on the grates. In firing with wood it is ad- visable to keep the screen in the smoke-stack down, as there is more danger of throwing sparks with wood than with coal. How to Fire with Straw. At one time, the return- flue type of boiler was considered the only successful one for straw, but these are now almost obsolete and modern straw burning engines are all of the direct flue type. The Case straw burners are the same as the coal burners, except that they are fitted with straw grates, dead-plates, a brick arch and a straw chute and the boiler is lagged. ( See Fig. 9.) Any Case engine, except the eighteen and thirty horse-power, can be made to burn straw by making these changes. 36 SCmNCi: Oi^ SUCCESSFUL THRESHING When firing with straw, keep the chute full all the time, so that no cold air can get in on top of the fire. Take small forkfuls and let each bunch of straw push the preced- ing one into the fire. Occasionally turn the fork over and run it in below the straw in the chute to break down and WAGON TOP HAND HOLE- ?E BOX SE HEAD FRONT DRAFT DOOR FIG. 9. SECTIONAL VIEW OF FIRE-BOX FOR BURNING STRAW. level up the fire. Three grates, spaced equally across the fire box, are better than more. Keep about fifteen inches of the front of the ash pan clean, to allow plenty of draft, but let ashes fill up in the rear part. Four bricks must be used. Keep rear draft door shut. The flame coming over the brick arch as seen through FIRING WITH VARIOUS FUELS 37 the peep hole should appear white hot, and should be con- tinuous and not be stopped or checked each time the straw is pushed in, as will be the case if firing be too heavy or too much be put in at a time. Sometimes straw, especially when damp, is pulled over against the ends of the tubes. This may be scraped off with the poker, through the peep- hole. The tubes should be cleaned twice a day. The draft should be strong enough to make the fire burn freely and at a v/hite heat. It may be necessary to reduce the exhaust nozzle to get the proper draft, but it should never be reduced more than is necessary, as back pressure reduces the power of the engine. If unburnt straw be seen coming out of the smoke-stack, it shows that the exhaust nozzle is too small. Do not expect the engine to steam well when the front end of the boiler is low. The engine should be level or a little high in front. If the en- gine has been steamed up for some time without running, the screen in the smoke-stack may be so filled up as to seri- ously interfere with the draft. Brick Arch. For successful straw burning, it is im- portant that the brick arch be tight so that no air can pass through it, especial!}^ in front near the tube-sheet. It is best to close all the joints and crevices with fire-clay, if it is to be had, or if not, common clay may be used and it is a very good substitute, especially if it be mixed with salt water. Even common earth lasts very well if mixed with salt water. 38 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING Peep Hole. All *'Case" boilers except the eighteen and thirty H. P. have an opening on the left side near the front of the fire-box known as the ''peep hole." This is used on straw-burning boilers to allow the operator to FIRE BOX TUBE HEAD FIG. 10. SECTIONAL VIEW OF FIRE-BOX FOR BURNING OIL. observe the flame passing over the brick arch and to re- move straw from the tube-ends in case it is drawn over the brick arch. As with the fire-door, the peep-hole should not be kept open longer than necessary. How to Fire with Oil. The ''Case" oil-burning engines FIRING WITH VARIOUS FUELS 39 are similar to the ''straw-burners" except that only three of the arch bricks are used. The regular coal-burning grates are used, but in place of dead-plates, the forward two-thirds of the grate surface is covered with ordinary fire bricks. These are held in place by an angle-iron bolted to the grates. The fuel tank is mounted above the right- hand side of the barrel of the boiler directly in front of the fire-box. Its position above the boiler keeps the oil warm and insures a good flow to the nozzle when the heavier grades of oils are used. In firing with oil, the regular fire-door is left open or removed and a sheet-steel door sub- stituted, through which the burner slightly projects. When oil is used as fuel, the fire must be started in the same man- ner as for coal or straw, and it is necessary to have a pres- sure of about ten pounds to make the burner work properly. Unions are provided in order that the burner may be read- ily removed for starting the fire. Fig. lo shows how the burner or nozzle is piped and also the manner in which the bricks are placed in the fire-box so that no part of the boiler is exposed to the direct flame. Fuel Value of Wood. Ordinarily a cord of the best hard wood (as for example white oak) is equivalent to 1500 pounds of bituminous or soft coal. However, there is considerable variation in even the hard woods, a cord of good red or black oak being equal to about 1350 pounds of coal, while on the other hand a cord of good hickory or hard maple, if used for fuel, would be nearly equal to a 40 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING ton of coal. A cord of soft wood, such as dry poplar or pine, is equivalent to 800 or 900 pounds of coal. The heating value of the different kinds of wood fol- lows quite closely the differences in weight and a certain quantity of any kind of dry wood is about equal to 40 per cent, of its weight in coal, that is, 5000 pounds of dry wood is equal to a ton of coal. The above figures are for well seasoned sound wood. If green, a considerable part of the heat is lost in evaporat- ing the moisture in it ; or if rotten, the fuel value is but a small part of that of sound wood. Fuel Value of Straw. It takes from two and one-half to three tons of good dry straw, such as wheat, rye, oat or barley, to equal in heating value a ton of soft coal. Flax straw is rich in oil and therefore has the highest heating value of the various straws, but it takes more than two tons even of flax straw to equal a ton of coal. Fuel Value of Oil. As there is considerable variation in the quality of fuel oil as well as there is of coal, an exact relation cannot be established. However, for ordinary calculations, it is accurate enough to consider that 200 U. S. gallons of oil is equivalent to a ton of soft coal. This means that if oil can be purchased for 2^ cents per U. S. gallon it is as cheap as coal at five dollars per ton. Corn Cobs, Corn Cobs make a convenient fuel as they are easily handled. They make a hot fire and it is very easy to keep up steam with them. Their heating value is FIRING WITH VARIOUS FUEI.S 4I about the same as that of straw, consequently it takes about two and one-half tons to equal a ton of coal. Smoke Box. Any openings or holes in the smoke-box let in outside air and have a tendency to destroy the draft. The smoke-box door should fit tight and if broken, should be replaced with a new one or repaired in a substantial and workmanlike manner. Removing the Ashes. For each one hundred pounds of coal or an equivalent amount of other fuel, about 1500 cubic feet of air is required to support combustion, that is, to allow the fire to burn. Nearly all of this large amount of air must pass through the draft doors into the ash-pan and thence through the grates. With this in mind, it is easy to appreciate the necessity of keeping the ashes out of the ash-pan so that they do not obstruct the passage of air. Furthermore, if allowed to accumulate so that they touch the grates, even at one point, the grates will be deprived of the cooling effect of the air and consequently be warped or melted so as to render them worthless in a very short time. Before removing hot ashes, see that there is no straw, dried grass or other highly inflammable substances on the ground where they will be likely to catch and spread fire dangerously. If these materials are present, be prepared to quench the fire, should they ignite, before it gets beyond control. Rocking-Grates. In order to shake the ashes from the grates v/hen firing with coal, without disturbing the hot coals, rocking-grates are sometimes used. The ''Case" 42 SCIENCE O^ SUCCESSFUL THRESHING rocking-grates are arranged so that all ashes, cinders and clinkers from a previous day's fire may be dumped into the ash-pan and the grates entirely cleaned for a fresh fire. However, while the engine is in operation, the lever is ordinarily moved back and forth only enough to jar the ashes through and not enough to dump the fire. Care should be taken to leave the lever in such a position that the grates form a flat surface, for otherwise the projecting edges may be burned off. Exhaust Nozzles. It is always best to use the largest nozzle that the fuel will allow. To be sure that you are doing this, try a larger one if you have never done so. In changing to another kind of fuel it is possible that the size of exhaust nozzle may be increased. Frequently the firing is made easier and burning of the fuel improved in every way by the use of a larger nozzle. Often in burning coal, the opening in the elbow is sufficiently small for the proper draft, without using either of the reducing nozzles. The reducing nozzles, being of brass, do not rust, and therefore may be readily changed at any time. LIST OF EXHAUST NOZZLES FOR case' ENGINES. Size of Exhaust Size of Large Size of Small Size of Engine Elbow Hole Nozzle Hole Nozzle Hole 18 H. P A 716C VA" 717C l%" 771C 1/8" 30 H. P. A 716C VA" 717C m" 771C m" 36 H. P. A 716C 1/2" lOOlC m" 717C IVa" 45 H. P. A 714C m" 715C 1/2" 753C i%" 60 H. P. A 714C m" 715C lA" 753C i%" 75 H. P. 800C 2%" 873C m" 816C 1/2" 110 H. P. 1513C m" 1528C 2A" I527C 2^" CHAPTER IV LUBRICATION AND ADJUSTMENT OF BEARINGS EEP the bearings of the engine well oiled if you would have it last and not cause trouble. By "well oiled" is not meant that the whole engine should be **swimming" in oil, but that all of its bearings should be always lubricated. It does not take very much good oil to keep a bearing properly lubricated, but you should apply it often and be sure that it reaches the place intended. Many of the oils now on the market are largely adulterated with rosin and paraffine, and, though having an excellent appearance, have poor lubricating qualities, are gummy and dry up in a short time. The oil-boxes on the crank-shaft bearings, and wherever possible elsewhere, should be filled with wool or cotton waste to retain the oil and keep out sand and grit. The covers of these oil boxes should be kept closed. Many experienced operators use cylinder oil instead of machine oil for lubricating the various parts of the engine. Bearings will run cool with it when they cannot be made to do so with machine oil. Since it has considerable "body," it requires only about one-half as much of it as of 43 44 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSI^UI. THRESHING the thinner oils, and therefore, its higher price is not nec- essarily an objection. Then, too, it is convenient to have but one kind of oil for the entire engine. Cylinder Lubrication. Use a good quality of Valve or Cylinder Oil in the lubricator or the oil-pump, as it is very important that the piston and valve should be well lubri- cated vi^ith an oil that v^ill stand the high temperatures of the steam. Do not imagine that cheap oil, no matter in what quantity, will do in the cylinder. Nothing but first- class cylinder oil will answer, and it must be used in suf- ficient quantities. An expert is often called to an engine because of the valve being "off" when the trouble is only poor cylinder lubrication. In the early days of the steam engine, tallow was generally used as a cylinder and valve lubricant. Ex- cept that it contains some acid, it was suitable for the pres- sures then used. However, tallow or ordinary machine oil will not do for the modern steam engine, as they volatilize and lose their lubricating properties at the high pressures and corresponding high temperatures now used. The cylinder oil for lubricating the cylinder and the valve should be introduced into the steam-pipe and if pos- sible in such a manner that the oil passes through the throt- tle and the governor, thus lubricating them. Cylinder oil is quite thick, especially in cold weather, and it is much easier to fill lubricators if the oil be warmed and the cups heated by blowing a little steam through them. A covered LUBRICATION AND ADJUSTMENT OF BEARINGS 45 can containing a quart or so of cylinder oil should be kept on the boiler in cold weather so that it will always be heated and ready for use. Hard Oil has many qualities to recommend it. It stays on the bearing, and as it wears well, a little of it will go a long way. The usual method of applying hard oil is by means of compression cups, of which the one used on the cross-head is an example. Each time the engine is stopped, the cup should be turned to take up the ''slack" and force in a little grease. Approximate Cost of Oils. The price of oil varies so greatly that no specific figures can be given. However, it may be stated that good lubricating oil cannot be purchased in quantities of five or ten-gallon lots at less than twenty- five cents per gallon, while cylinder-oil, in like quantities, cannot be purchased ordinarily at less than sixty cents per gallon. These are minimum figures, and in localities where commodities in general are high, the retail prices of good oils may be twice as high as those quoted, or even more. The "Ideal" Spring Grease Cttp. This is a compres- sion cup in which the hard oil is forced out by a plunger pressed down by a spring. The action of the spring is limited by a thumb screw so that only the desired amount of grease will be fed. This cup is used on the crank-pin of all Case engines. To fill, raise the plunger by screwing down the thumb nut as far as it will go. Then remove the cap, fill the cup with grease and replace the cap. Unscrew- 46 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUIv THRESHING THUMB NUT SPRING ^ LOCKING SCREW •CAP ing the thumb nut will cause the spring to force some of the grease down to the journal. The size of the hole through the shank can be adjusted by the regulating screw, to feed the required amount of grease. The hole in the screw is in line with the slot in its head. If it be desired to stop the flow of grease, turn the thumb nut down to the cap which will relieve the spring of tension. If the plunger turns when screw- ing the thumb nut, it may be held by the knurled head of the screw. PLUNGER. " — ""^^ — — GREASE BODY I CHAMBER SHANK FIG. II. \ REGULATING \*- SCREW sectional view of 'ideal'' cup. X 'o Attach Oil Pump to ''Case'' Engines. The body of the pump is attached to the steam chest by a stud bolt, which is located one inch from the top of the chest, and one and three-quarter inches from the face of the chest cover flange. When the hole for the stud bolt is drilled it must be tapped so that the five-eighth inch stud bolt will screw in steam-tight. The rod for operating the ratchet may be attached to the rocker-arm of any "Case" simple engine. To locate the hole for the shoulder-bolt in the rocker-arm, measure five inches below the center of rocker-arm bearing, and one-half inch from the edge of the arm. This hole LUBRICATION AND ADJUSTMENT OF BEARINGS 47 FIG. 12. OIL PUMP ATTACHED. should be three-eighths inch in diameter. Compounded engines (excepting the 75 H. P.), have a shde in place of the rocker-arm, and on these engines the ratchet-rod is at- tached to the eccentric- rod by means of a clamp provided for this pur- pose. On portable en- gines, the ratchet-rod must be attached to the valve slide, the three- eighth inch hole for the shoulder bolt being lo- M^- FOO^Q^^ cated two and one-half inches from the top and seven-eighths inch from the front edge of the slide. After the pump body is attached, the ratchet-rod may be placed in position, one end being on the shoulder bolt of the rocker-arm or clamp, and the other passing through the knuckle-joint on the sliding ratchet-arm. Having con- nected the ratchet-rod, screw the gravity check valve into the hole in the throttle, using a bushing to bring it to the right size. The soft one-quarter-inch tubing may be bent to bring its ends in proper position in order to make the connections at the unions. Instead of placing the oil pump on the steam chest, it rnay be attached to the cylinder flange of the engine frame. To do this, one of the studs must be replaced by another of 48 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING sufficient length to take the lug on the bottom of the pump body. This avoids the necessity of boring a hole into the steam chest ; but in all cases, it is best to have the pump- body rest on the steam chest, for by this method, the oil is kept warm and fluid in cold weather. To Attach the ''Szviff' Lubricator. The lubricators have a little brass pipe extending beyond the shank as shown in the cut at H. This pipe discharges the oil and must extend into the interior of the steam-pipe or the lub- ricator will not work. If lost out or injured, it must be replaced. In case the lubricator does not work properly, examine this pipe. To Operate "Szvift" Lubricator. Close valves E and G, remove cap F and fill the oil reservoir full of oil to the very top. Replace cap F. The bright plate that shows the sight feed should be completely covered with oil. Now open valve E about one-half turn, then open valve G very care- fully and drops of water will com- mence to roll down over the bright plate; avoid opening too wide, as a stream could be run over the plate and the oil wasted. When the oil is nearly exhausted from the cup, water commences to show at the bottom of glass D, and gradually rises until it reaches FIG, 13. SWIFT LUBRICATOR. I^UBRICATION AND ADJUSTMENT OF BEARINGS 49 the lower edge of the bright plate. The cup should then be refilled. To do this, close valves E and G, open the drain I and remove cap F, fill while draining; then close I when oil appears and proceed as above. When the en- gine is shut down, close valve G. When Lubricator Fails to Work. If the Lubricator should become clogged from impurities in the oil, remove cap F and glass D, then open valves G and E, and the passages will be cleaned by steam pressure. In blowing remove cap F and glass D, then open valves G and E, and the passages will be cleaned by steam pressure. In blow- ing live steam through the Lubricator to clean out the pas- sages, ahvays take off the nut D holding the sight feed glass before doing so, for if this be not done, the steam would heat the glass and render it liable to break when the oil comes in contact with it. Many cups are ruined by two causes, viz. : by freezing and by straining. In cold weather the cups should be drained before leaving the engine. The valve E should be slightly opened, except when filling, for if left closed, the expansion of cold oil having no relief will strain the cup. The little bright plate that shows the sight feed drops should be. kept clean and bright by an occasional wiping with a little silver polish ; if this be not done, it becomes tarnished and does not show the feed properly. When a glass breaks, if an extra one be not at hand, a coin may be put in and the cup run "blind feed" until a new one is pro- 4 50 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSEUL THRESHING cured. A five-cent piece Is the right size for the lubricator ordinarily used on the pump and a quarter for the larger sizes. Packing the Lubricator. The nut that holds the sight- feed glass must not be screwed up too tightly. If screwing up moderately tight does not stop leakage, put in new gas- kets on both sides of the glass. In repacking the sight- feed glass, first remove every particle of the old packing. Two kinds of gaskets are furnished. Put a soft rubber one next to the glass on both sides and a red fiber one next to the nut. Usually this nut can be screwed up with the fingers tight enough to prevent leaking. The valve stems may be packed with Italian hemp or candle wicking. Adjustment of Engine Bearings. In adjusting the bearings of the engine, take up just a little of the lost motion at a time, until the pounding is stopped. Do not attempt to take it all out at once, for in so doing there is risk of heating and cutting. The young engineer often finds it difficult to locate a "pound" in an engine, but an experienced man can usually tell where it is by taking hold of the connecting-rod or eccentric-rod as the engine runs. A good plan, and one that will often show where the trouble lies, is to have a man take hold of the fly-wheel and turn it an inch or so back and forth. By watching the crank-box, cross-head, main bearings and the reverse, any lost motion can be seen. The Connecting-Rod Brasses are adjusted by loosening LUBRICATION AND ADJUSTMENT 01^ BEARINGS 5 1 the jam nut at the bottom and turning the head of the bolt, which will raise the wedge, and crowd the two halves of the box together. The proper adjustment may be made by drawing up the wedge a little at a time, trying it each time by moving the rod sideways on the crank pin with the hand until tight ; then back off the bolt a trifle. Another very satisfactory method is to tighten the bolt until it firmly resists further tightening and then loosen it a known amount, which should be about one-third of a turn. FIG. 14. THE CONNECTING-ROD. When the halves of the brasses touch, they must be taken out and filed. To take out the brasses for filing, remove the connecting rod in the following manner : Turn the engine so that the cross-head pin comes opposite the hole in the engine frame nearest the crank. Take off the washer on the crank pin and remove the grease cup and the nut from the cross-head pin. Drive the cross-head pin out with a wood block, turn the engine on rear dead center, and the connecting-rod may be lifted off. Set the wedges down as far as they will go, and take out the adjusting bolts. The wedge and half of the box next to it may be driven out from the inner side with a wood block. Before 52 science: of successfuIv threshing taking off the connecting-rod, make a scratch across the wedges and the rod end, so that in putting them back the wedge may be set in the same position as before. As the pressure is nearly all endwise on the rod, the holes in the brasses will tend to wear in an oval shape, so that when the boxes are tightened, they will bind at the top and bottom, causing them to heat, while they still pound endwise. To obviate this difficulty, the boxes should be "relieved" at the top and bottom by filing with a half- round file. They should not touch the pin for a distance of one-half to three-quarters of an inch each side of the joint. In time, the brasses will have worn so much that the wedge strikes against the top. Shims made of sheet- iron of the proper thickness must now be inserted. These should be put in on both sides of the brasses so as to not change the length of the rod, which would make it neces- sary to re-divide the clearance. It is best to take off the connecting-rod when the en- gine is cold; if it be taken off when the boiler is under steam pressure, and the throttle should accidentally be left open, or should leak, the piston may be driven through the cylinder with force enough to do serious damage. The Shoes of the Cross-Head are adjusted by loosen- ing the four cap screws, (E), and screwing up the four set screws, (F), to force the shoes against the guides. This will leave a space between the shoes and cross-head into which sheet-iron shims should be inserted. If these shims be of the right thickness to just fill the space, loosening the IvUBRICATlON AND ADJUSTMENT OF BEARINGS 53 set-screws and tightening the cap-screws will leave the shoes free to run and with no lost motion. When the en- gine runs "under," as in threshing, the wear is mostly on FIG. 15. THE CROSS-HEAD. the upper shoe and guide, and when engine runs ''over," as on the road, the wear is nearly all on the lower shoe and guide. Usually the wxar being nearly the same on both, they should be set out equally. The wear is slightly greater at crank end of guides and if the shoes are adjusted so cross-head is free at cylinder end, it will not be too tight at the other end. The Eccentric Strap is tightened by removing the paper liners. When these are all removed and the halves come together, they should be taken to a machine shop and a little planed off. The eccentric-strap must be well lubri- cated at all times, preferably with cylinder oil. The eccen- tric rod brasses and valve-rod brasses on engines having 54 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSEUIv THRESHING rocker-arms are taken up by driving down the wedges or keys. The Mam Bearings are adjusted by removing paper liners. Take out only a little at a time. If one of the bearings heats and does not cool when the nuts are loos- ened, remove the cap and clean out any grit or dirt that may be found. If the babbitt be rough and torn up, it should be scraped smooth. It is well to "relieve" the main bearings a little at their edges, as explained for the con- necting-rod brasses. When paper liners have all been re- moved, and the shaft has lost motion, the boxes will require re-babbitting. Babbitting Main Frame Bearing. No one but a good mechanic skilled in this work should undertake to babbitt the main bearings. The difficulty lies in obtaining the alignment, which must be perfect, before the babbitt is poured. The babbitt should be of the best quality. First, remove the cylinder-head, piston and piston-rod, connecting-rod and cross-head. Run a line (a fine wire is best) through the piston-rod stuffing-box and fasten it by any convenient means to a point in the rear of the crank- disc and to a point in front of the cylinder. In the latter case, a piece of wood may be bolted to the cylinder by one of the stud-bolts which hold the cylinder head in place. With a pair of inside calipers, the distance from the line should be carefully measured at both ends of the cylinder, at the stuffing-box and at the guides to insure its being exactly central with the cylinder in all directions. Meas- LUBRICATION AND ADJUSTMENT OF BEARINGS 55 urements may now be made from the line to the crank- disc and pin, in order to determine how much, if any, the shaft has been out of hne. By doing this before the old babbitt is disturbed, you will be able to tell later just how much the shaft must be moved in order to correct the alignment. When this has been done, the shaft must be taken out and the old babbitt removed from the box and all grease and dirt or metal, etc., cleaned from it. When the box is properly cleaned, replace the shaft, letting the disc end rest on blocks, one or two of vv^hich should be wedge-shape so that the shaft may conveniently be raised or lowered. The shaft should now be brought to the proper height so that its center is exactly on a level with the line. Now, by carefully measuring to the line, the shaft should be moved forward or rearward until the front and rear portions of the crank-disc rim are exactly the same distance from the line. When this is accomplished, the crank-shaft will be at right angles to the bore of the cylin- der and the shaft will be in its proper position "fore and aft." The shaft should now be moved along its axis until the crank-pin is divided into two equal parts by the line. All of the measurements should be made very carefully and accurately, and verified two or three times. The bab- bitt should be of the best quality- — Case grade "A" being suitable. Both halves of the bearing can be run at the same time, or the halves run separately as preferred. It is usually best to pour the lower half first. The lower edge must be 56 science: of successful threshing made tight with a piece of sheet-iron touching the shaft. This may be held by means of the bolts which secure the cap. Putty should then be used to make the ends and all, tight against leakage, but the babbitt must be allowed to run against the hub of the disc in order that end-play of the shaft may be prevented. An opening in the form of a funnel of putty should be made at each end of the box at the top. The babbitt may be poured through the larger of these while the one at the other end of the box allows the air to escape. After the lower-half and cap of bearing have been poured, the shaft should be removed so that the babbitt may be examined, oil-holes opened, oil-grooves cut and the babbitt scraped if necessary to properly fit the shaft. It is usually best to relieve the bearing as explained elsewhere. To Babbitt Upper Cannon Bearing. Jack up right- hand side of boiler, and block under tank or platform frame. Remove right-hand traction- wheel; take pin out of collar and pull off right-hand counter-shaft pinion; then the differential spur-gear and cen- ter-wheel. Drive out key and remove FIG. 16. "^ the left-hand counter-shaft pinion. Pull BOARD A. Q^^ ^i^g counter-shaft, and remove can- non-bearing after slipping off links. Chip out all old babbitt, and remove any grease or grit that may adhere to the casting. Fill the key-way in the LUBRICATION AND ADJUSTMENT OF BEARINGS 5/ shaft with putty or clay and wrap the shaft at the bearings with two or three thicknesses of common newspaper smeared with cylinder oil. Cover the outside of the paper with a good thick coating of cylinder oil to prevent the bab- bitt from cling-inp- to the shaft. Make two boards similar to Fig. 1 6 to hold the shaft central in bearing while babbitting. The holes in the boards are made the size of the shaft and the three blocks are nailed to the board with ends on a circle to fit the outside turned part of the can- non-bearing. Put one board ''A" on shaft next to bevel-gear ; then put bearing on shaft, and the other board "A" on the other end. Drive wooden plugs through oil-holes until they strike shaft. Set shaft and all on end as shov/n in Fig. 17. Make cup "B" of putty or clay at opening in side of casting to pour babbitt in ; also fill all around ends at ''C" with putty or clay to keep babbitt from running out. Heat babbitt just hot enough to run freely, and pour in FIG. 17. CANNON-BEARING IN POSITION FOR BABBITTING. S8 science: of successful threshing cup **B." Turn shaft and bearing end for end and repeat the operation as above. Remove the shaft ; chip oil-grooves in upper side of bearing and see that oil-holes are open. The bearing is now ready to put in place on the engine again. < 30000 00 0000 oooooooooooooooooooood oooooooooooocooo ooooooood oooooooooooooocuoooocooooooooo ' -w -t^ ooooooonooyoooooQOOooQCOocK?ocoooooeooooooooogcooooooooocoooo oo"' PooPQOoo' ?og90 0gnOg?° CHAPTER V HANDLING THE ENGINE EFORE starting the engine always see that the cyl- inder cocks are open. Then if the crank pin be in the right position (that is, past the dead center in the direction in which the engine is to run), open the throt- tle just enough so the crank pin will pass the next center. After a few revolutions, gradually increase the throttle opening until the governor controls the speed. If the crank pin be not in the right position to start, take the throttle-lever in one hand and the reverse lever in the other. Admit a little steam into the cylinder, reverse, and then before the engine can pass that center throw the reverse lever back, and the engine will start. Occasionally an engine will stop on the exact dead-center, and when this occurs it is necessary to turn it off by taking hold of the fly-wheel. If on the road, releasing the friction clutch will generally allow the engine to start because the strain on the gearing is released. Never start the engine suddenly. Take sufficient time to allow the water in the cylinder to escape through the cylinder-cocks instead of forcing it through the exhaust. If the engine be working in the belt, a sudden start is very 59 6o scie^nce: op^ successfui. Threshing liable to throw off the main belt; if traveling, a sudden start throws unnecessary strain on the gearing and the connections between the engine and its load. When the engine has been running a sufficient time to allow any water that may be in the cylinder to escape, cylinder-cocks may be closed. When the engine is at work leave the throttle wide open, allowing the governor to control the speed. An engine provided with a friction clutch is much easier handled when traveling than one without, but the clutch is seldom used by a good engineer. If used con- tinually it requires attention to keep it adjusted. Steering. An engine cannot be properly guided unless the steering-chains are correctly adjusted. If too tight they cause the steering-wheel to turn hard, while if too loose, the guiding is much more difficult and the control uncertain. The chains are properly adjusted when one turn of the steering-wheel takes up the slack. A weak steering-chain is dangerous and if one has been broken by running into something, or from any other cause, it should not be allowed to go indefinitely, temporarily repaired with a bolt or piece of wire, but should be fixed so that it is as strong as ever. In guiding an engine many make the mistake of turn- ing the steering-wheel too much. It is well to remember that a turn in one direction always means a turn in the op- posite direction. Theoretically, the engine would follow HANDLING THK ENGINE 6l a smooth straight road without turning the wheel at all, but in practice it is always necessary to turn it a little. It is important to keep your eye on the front wheels of the engine. Setting the Engine. A little practice is necessary to enable the operator to quickly line and set the engine, but this is acquired by most men in time. On a calm day the engine and the separator should be *'dead in line," that is, in such a position that a line drawn through the edges of the fly-wheel rim vvould pass through the edge of the sep- arator cylinder-pulley rim on the same side, and a line drawn through the edges of the cylinder-pulley rim would pass through the edge of the fly-wheel rim on the same side. When threshing on a windy day, the drive belt should be crossed so the slack side will be toward the direction from which the wind is coming. When crossed in this way, the pulling side (that is, the one going to the bottom of the engine fly-wheel) will support the slack side and in a measure prevent it from being carried out of line by the wind. Allowance for the wind must be made, a heavy side wind requiring a setting of the engine sometimes as much as two feet out of line. When the rig has been set during a calm and a wind comes up, it is not necessary to stop, throw the belt and reset the engine in order to make the belt run on the pulley. Take a screw-jack or lifting- jack, set it obliquely under the front axle of the engine and move it in the direction the wind is blowing until the 62 SCIENCE 01^ SUCCESSFUI. THRESHING belt runs properly on the fly-wheel. Move the front end of the separator in the same manner until the belt runs properly on the cylinder pulley. If trouble be experienced in getting the engine in line, this method may be used to correct the alignment until practice enables the operator to set the engine so that the belt will run in the center of both pulleys. This "jacking over" of the front of the engine or of the separator should be done while the belt is running. The friction-clutch should always be used in tightening and in backing the engine into the belt. 'Ascending Hills. In coming to a steep hill the engi- neer should see that he has about the right amount of water in the boiler, that is, enough to show about two inches in the glass when the boiler is level. With the boiler too full there may be danger of priming, which should be espec- ially avoided on a hill. It is also necessary to exercise judgment in regard to the fire. It should be hot enough to insure sufficient steam pressure to climb the hill without stopping. On the contrary, the engine should not be al- lowed to blow off wdien pulling hard on a hill, as this is liable to cause priming, necessitating stopping. In short, when approaching a steep hill, prepare for it so that you know you can ascend without stopping. In ascending a hill, avoid running fast, as a moderate rate of speed gives best results. If the engine shows a tendency to prime, the speed should be limited by means of the throttle so that the engine may run just fast enough to pass its dead- centers. HANDING THE ENGINE 63 Descending Hills. Important as it is to ascend the hill without stopping, it is doubly important in descending to reach level ground before stopping. Every man in charge of a boiler of the locomotive type should know the danger of stopping with the front end low. In descend- ing a very steep hill leave the throttle partly open to admit a little steam and if the engine runs too fast control the speed with reverse lever. Gravel Hills. In going up steep gravel hills there is danger of breaking through the surface crust, thereby letting the traction wheels into the soft gravel, which they will push out from under them, simply digging holes in- stead of propelling the engine. When this occurs, stop at once, before the engine buries itself. Block the wheels of the separator, or other load behind the engine and un- couple and it will probably move out all right. If it does not, put cordwood sticks in front of the traction wheels so that the grouters will catch. Another method is to hitch a team and start the team and engine together. Mud Holes. The statements regarding gravel hills apply in general to soft mud holes. Stop the engine when the wheels slip, and put straw, brush, stones, sticks or any- thing else that may be handy in front of the wheels so that the grouters can take hold of something. When the en- gine is on a "greasy" road where the wheels slip without digging much, get a couple of men to help roll the front wheels and you will be surprised how much good this does. 64 SCIENCE 01^ SUCCESSFUI. THRESHING With one traction wheel in a greasy mud hole or old stack bottom, and the other on solid ground, the differen- tial gear may be locked, but unless you understand the con- sequences of doing this, as elsewhere explained in this book, it will be better to get out some other way. The Use of a Cable. It is a good plan to carry a wire cable or heavy rope with the outfit. Then when the en- gine stalls, it can be uncoupled and run onto solid ground where it can pull its load out of the hole by the long hitch, and then be coupled up short again. A cable or rope is elastic and therefore better than a chain, which is liable to snap with the shock of starting the load. Where a rope is used, it should have a ring spliced in one end. The other end may be tied into a shackle or clevis on the engine draw-bar in a "bow-line" knot, which will not slip and is easily untied after being strained. A rope used in this way has the advantage of being adjustable as to length. If a chain be used the engine must be moved very slowly, by means of the friction clutch, until all the slack is out of the chain. Special High Grouters. Engines for Louisiana, and other swampy localities, are usually fitted with pressed- steel grouters or "mud-hooks," as they are called, which bolt to the traction wheels, in addition to the regular grouters. These are about five inches high and conse- quently must be taken off before crossing bridges. (They are furnished at an additional price.) CHAPTER VI THE ENGINE PROPER HE term "traction engine" commonly includes, not only what is strictly speaking, the engine, but the boiler and traction parts as well. In this book, the term "engine proper" will be used to designate those parts which are actually concerned in converting the en- ergy of steam into rotary motion. The boiler changes REVERSE LEVER CLUTCH LEVER. THROTTLE LEVER FIG. l8. SIDE ELEVATION OF ENGINE PROPER. v:ater into steam by adding to it, heat, taken from the fuel. The engine proper consumes steam and delivers motion. The Cylinder. It is in the cylinder that the actual 66 SCIENCE 01^ SUCCESS:^UIv THRESHING change of heat into motion takes place. Here the steam is alternately admitted on opposite sides of a piston, which is driven back and forth, thereby. This reciprocating mo- tion of the piston is changed into the rotary motion of the shaft, by the crank and connecting rod. The admission of steam to the cylinder is controlled by the "slide-valve," which slides upon a planed surface, called the "valve-seat," FIG. 19. SECTIONAL VIEW OF SIMPLE CYLINDER. in a chamber, called the "steam-chest," which is adjacent to the cylinder. Passages, called "ports," lead from the valve seat to the ends of the cylinder and to the outside air, called the "exhaust." The valve alternately uncovers the ports and allows the steam in the chest to flow into the thk engine proper ^7 ends of the cylinder. The underside of the valve is cham- bered in such a manner that when the piston is being driven away from one end of the cylinder, this chamber connects the steam port of the opposite end with the exhaust port, and allows the steam to flow through the exhaust pipe into the air. The valve does not admit steam to the cylinder during a complete stroke of the piston, but only during a part, which is known as "admission." When the piston has traveled a certain distance, the valve closes the port, shutting off the steam, at what is called the point of "cut- off." Since steam is elastic, it continues to act, with grad- ually decreasing pressure, upon the piston until the end of the stroke is reached. This part of the stroke and action of the steam is known as "expansion." In the same man- ner in which the admission of live steam is stopped before the piston completes its outward stroke, the exhaust is closed shortly before the return stroke is completed. The steam caught between the piston and the end of the cylin- der is compressed as the piston nears the end, raising the pressure of the steam and forming what is called the "cush- ion." The part of the stroke after the exhaust has closed is called "compression." The steam is carried from the boiler to the steam chest by means of the steam pipe, in which the throttle and governor are located. Wide End of Valve. Sometimes the widths between the outside edges and the exhaust chamber edges of the valve are different for the two ends of the valve. The ob- 68 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUIy THRESHING ject of making the valve in this way is to equalize com- pression. Such a valve should be put in with the wide end toward the rear or crank-end of cylinder. The Piston. The piston is always a little smaller than the inside diameter of the cylinder. It is made steam tight, however, by rings which are fitted into grooves on its circumference. These rings are originally made slightly larger than the bore of the cylinder, and are after- ward cut apart, so that they may be compressed sufficiently to enter the cylinder. This gives them some tension so that they fit the inside of the cylinder closely, thus pre- venting leakage of the steam. The cylinder is bored slightly larger at the ends — "counter-bored" as it is called. This is done to guard against the wearing of a shoulder, at the points, near each end of the cylinder, at which the outer edge of the piston ring stops. The forming of such a shoulder (which would cause the engine to pound), is prevented by allowing part of the ring to pass into the counter-bore. The entire width of the ring must not be permitted to enter the counter-bore, however, or the ring would expand and catch against the shoulder. To Divide the Clearance. The clearance of an engine is the cubical contents of the port, from the face of the valve to the cylinder, including the space between the pis- ton and the cylinder head when the engine is on dead-cen- ter. To divide the clearance, loosen the clamp bolt and the jam nut on the piston rod and unscrew the rod from the thk engine proper 69 cross-head until the piston just strikes the cylinder-head as the crank passes the head dead-center ; then screw in the rod until the piston just strikes the other cylinder-head as the engine passes the other dead-center carefully count- ing the number of turns of the rod. Now unscrew the rod half the number of turns counted and the clearance will be divided. Tighten the clamp bolt and the jam nut. Packing Piston-Rod and Valve-Rod. A suitable packing for this purpose is the kind known as "gum-core" which is round in section and has a rubber center with a woven fabric covering. There are many other kinds of good packing on the market. Italian hemp (which comes in the form of a rope), candle wicking and similar pack- ings can be used, but a rod stuffing-box packed with them requires continual attention, whereas if packed with "gum- core" or other good packings it will often run a whole season without re-packing. Packing Cylinder-Head and Steam-Chest Cover. Usu- ally sheet asbestos is used for the gaskets under steam- chest cover, cylinder-head, governor-base flange and other similar steam joints. There are some sheet-rubber pack- ings that are very good. Many engine-men do not know that a sheet-asbestos gasket when broken in separating the parts, even when a portion adheres on one side and the rest on the other, will hold tight providing that the pieces of the gasket go back in exactly the same position as be- fore. With either rubber or asbestos sheet packing, if 70 science: of successi^uIv threshing one side be coated with graphite when first put on, the joint may be opened several times, and as the gasket will adhere to one side only, it will remain undisturbed and will not require renewing. In emergencies when no good packing is at hand, a leaky joint can be remedied in vari- ous ways. If small pieces of the packing blow out, the leakages can be plugged temporarily by soft wooden wedges. A gasket may be made of a piece of grain bag smeared with paint or cylinder oil. Common straw- board, or even a few thicknesses of newspaper, also an- swers very well as a gasket under steam-chest cover, cyl- inder-head or the like if the bolts be kept well tightened for the first day or two. A soft copper wire about i-8 inch in diameter will also answer the purpose, when placed around the joint to be packed, inside of the bolts, and the ends joined carefully. Packing Valve-Stems. For packing the stems of globe and angle valves, the water-glass connections, throt- tle-stem and similar places, asbestos wicking (which comes in balls) is the most suitable. For valves that are not subjected to steam-pressure and are therefore never heated, cotton candle wicking or hemp will do nicely. The Crank-Pin and Disc. The crank-pin of an engine will quickly heat if keyed up too tightly or if the grease- cup which lubricates it is allowed to get empty. The crank-pin is forced into the disc with a pressure of several tons and will never get loose unless possibly by the pin THK ENGINE PROPER 71 getting hot and causing the brasses to set tight on the pin. When this occurs, the connecting-rod exerts a powerful tendency to twist the pin in the disc. The crank-disc on Case engines is pressed onto the shaft with a pressure of fifteen tons or more, and the key is then driven in. It will be seen that, owing to this pre- caution in securing it, the disc is not liable to get loose, and in fact the only strain that can possibly loosen it is the enormous one produced when an engine is started suddenly without allowing the water in the cylinder to escape. Sometimes operators think the disc is loose when it is not. They are deceived by the appearance of oil at the end of the shaft which may have seeped through along the sides of the key, or by the fact that the disc appears to "wobble." The appearance of oil does not indicate looseness and the apparent wobbling may be due to end-play of the shaft. The Throttle. The throttle controls the flow of steam from the boiler to the steam chest. It should be left open after the engine is started, allowing the governor to con- trol the speed. The only exception to this rule is when the engine is working hard, as when traveling up a hill, with its boiler showing a tendency to prime. In this case, the engine should be made to run very slowly by means of the throttle. The skill with which some operators handle the throttle enables them to drive an engine up a hill which one less skilled could not make the engine climb. This applies principally to localities in which the water is 72 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUI. THRESHING SO bad that it makes all boilers liable to prime. The throt- tle should be drained in cold weather to prevent damage by frost. Leaky Throttles. If the throttle is leaky, see that the valve is put in so that the steam pressure holds it against the seat v^hen closed. Arrows are placed on the body casting and on the valve itself, indicating the direc- tion of the flow of steam to aid in putting in the valve correctly. Leakage may be the result of a sprung valve- body or valve, or both, occasioned by freezing or other causes. The valve itself may have become twisted by someone trying to open the throttle when it was stuck by frost. Leaks can usually be remedied by taking out the valve and filing it on the high places shown by the contact. Use a very fine file and bear lightly, or use emery cloth. File off but little before try- ing the valve for leakage. A second filing will usually be found to suffice. The Governor. The speed of the steam threshing-engine is controlled by a governor, which *'throttles" or limits the amount of steam admitted to the cylinder. The essential parts of a "throttling" governor consist of balls which tend to fly apart by centrifugal action, which movement is transmitted to the valve and partly closes it. FIG. 20. GOVERNOR. THE ENGINE PROPER 73 The outward movement of the balls is resisted by springs. A perspective view of a governor is shown in Fig. 20, and a sectional view of the valve-body in Fig. 21. The valve connection to the stem has no play endwise, but is flexible, thus allowing the valve to align itself by its seat. Speed of Bngine. To increase the speed of the engine, loosen the check nut at the top of the Waters governor and turn the screw up. To decrease the speed, screw it down. Be sure to set the check nut tight after altering. Packing the Governor. For packing the stuffing-box, candle wicking (which comes in balls) is excellent; soaked in a mixture of cylinder oil and black lead or graphite, it will work well and last a long time. Do not screw the stuffing-box down too hard on the packing, or the sensi- tive action of the governor will be interfered with. It is well to allow a slight leakage to insure its not being too tight. Oiling the Governor. Oil the governor thoroughly with good oil. Oil regularly (at least twice a day) the brass washer at the top, the horizontal shaft, the barrel (which is oiled from the top), etc. Keep the governor clean and oil-holes open. If oil has been used which gums or causes the parts to stick, a little kerosene poured into the oil holes will clean the parts. If the use of gmnmy oil Is continued, this treatment should be repeated once a week after shutting down. The Governor Belt. Use a thin flat belt and see that the lacing" or fasteninof is hammered down flat, so that no 74 SCII^NCE OF SUCCESSI^UI. THRESHING bunch remains to cause an uneven working of the gov- ernor. The belt should be sufficiently taut to prevent slipping, but not so taut as to cause undue friction. The belt should be kept free from excessive oil or grease from other parts of the engine. This may be wiped off with a clean cloth moistened with a little kerosene or benzine and afterwards wiped again vs^ith a dry cloth. Governor Troubles. If the governor ''jumps" or is irregular, it is probably VALVE STEM -^Hy^ STUFFING BOX occasioned by one of the following causes : First, because the valve is a lit- tle tight; second, be- cause the valve-stem is bent; or, third, because the stuffing-box nut is screwed down too tight- ly. Turning the valve- stem up and down while the governor is r u n n i n g, will show whether the valve works freely in its seat. If it binds at all, take it out, and rub it with a fine emery cloth, but never attempt to file it. In taking the governor apart, the top must be lifted off as "true" as possible, so as not to bend the valve-stem. If the valve-stem becomes bent FIG. 21, SECTION OF WATERS GOVERNOR VALVE. thk engine proper 75 where it passes through the stuffing-box, it will be best to procure a new stem. A governor should hold down the speed of the engine and not allow it to "race" or "run wild," even with no load and full boiler pressure. When a governor, which once controlled the speed properly fails to do so it is an indication that either its action is interfered with by an imperfect stem or the like, or else that the valve and lining have become worn so that sufficient steam leaks through to cause the engine to race. Sometimes when this is the case, the engine "dies" when called on to pull a heavy load (as in sawing) on account of the fact that it is screwed down too far in the attempt to control the speed with no load. The remedy for this trouble is a new valve and new lining or valve-seat. The length of time that a governor vv^ill run before leakage through the valve be- comes troublesome varies greatly — from only a season or so to perhaps ten or twelve years, depending on the purity of the water. Rated Horse-Pozver. Stationary engines are rated at about their actual horse-power, as determined by brake test. Farm and traction engines, on the other hand, have been rated very much below their actual or brake horse- power, which is to be regretted. As the practice of under- rating has existed since engines for driving threshing ma- chines were first built, and has grown up with the busi- ness, it is somewhat difficult to change this at the present 76 science: of successfuIv Threshing time, but it is being gradually brought about. If we look into history and causes, we find that the early method of driving threshing machines was by horses, and when en- gines were first used for threshing, a ten horse-power en- gine was supposed to supply about the same amount of power as a lever-power driven by ten horses. From the time of those early engines to the present, the competition of different manufacturers, all endeavoring to furnish the most powerful engine of a given rating, and the raising of the steam pressure from 60 to 130 or even 160 pounds (which was done without reducing the size of the cylinder of a given rating), has caused the rating of engines of this class to become more and more confusing. The re- lation which the rated horse-power bears to the actual size of the engine varies so greatly that, in reality, the "rated horse-power" gives only a very indefinite idea of the actual size of an engine. There are reasons why it is preferable to indicate the size of an engine by size of its cylinder, instead of by its rated horse-power; for example, to say a "nine by ten" rather than a "fifteen horse" engine. However, besides the cylinder size, the steam pressure carried and the speed are also important factors in de- termining the amount of horse-power an engine will de- velop, and therefore a brake rating based on the actual load the engine is capable of carrying is the only satis- factory method. English engines are more under-rated than any of those built in the United States, but in compar- The engine proper 77 ing tht engines of these countries, the difference in steam pressure and speed must be taken into consideration, as well as the difference in the size of cyHnders. The methods of obtaining the exact horse-power of an engine with the indicator or the Prony brake are becoming better known, but it is probable, however, that all engines will not be cor- rectly rated for some time to come. Bngine Horse-Power. The unit of power is a *'horse- power" which is defined as the amount of power necessary to raise thirty-three thousand pounds one foot in one min- ute. From this it will be seen that, if we know the amount of force exerted in pounds and multiply by the number of feet it travels in a minute and then divide the product so obtained by 33,000, we will have the result in horse-power. We have, then, as our unit of horse-power something that means a definite amount and one that can be easily meas- ured, with reasonable accuracy. The horse-power of an engine may be found by multi- plying the average, total effective pressure on the piston, by the number of feet it travels per minute, and dividing by thirty-three thousand. The total effective pressure on the piston is equal to its area in square inches, multi- plied by the effective pressure per square inch, which is not constant, but varies, being nearest boiler pressure dur- ing the early part of the stroke and decreasing after the point of cut-off Is passed, as the steam expands, until the yS SCIENCE OE SUCCESSEUI. THRESHING end of the stroke is reached. The effective pressure is the pressure remaining after subtracting the back pressure of the exhaust, which is exerted on the opposite side of the piston. Indicated Horsc-Pozver. The pressure at the different parts of the stroke can be actually measured only by means of the steam-engine indicator. This instrument has a small piston, connected to a pencil point in such a way that move- ment of the piston is registered on a card. Since the movement of the piston is resisted by a calibrated spring, its position depends upon the amount of pressure it is sub- jected to, and as the card moves, corresponding to the movement of the engine piston, therefore, the amount of pressure at all points may be known from the diagram made by the pencil point. Knowing the pressures at the various points of the stroke, it is easy to multiply the aver- age by the travel of the piston in feet per minute and thus determine the horse-power. The result so obtained is called the "indicated" horse-power. The indicator meas- ures the power developed in the cylinder and, of course, it takes a part of this to run the engine itself. The amount so consumed is, roughly, ten per cent, of the whole. Brake Horse-Power. The net horse-power delivered at the fly-wheel may be actually measured by means of a de- vice known as the "Prony brake." Sometimes the brake is mounted on the engine shaft, but more often the engine is belted to the brake, as shown in Fig. 22. A Prony brake consists essentially of a band which may be tightened so THE ENGINE PROPER 79 as to apply friction to a revolving shaft, pulley or drum in such a manner that the tendency of the band to revolve with the shaft is resisted by weighing scales, which will show the amount of pull. The result so obtained is called the "brake" horse-power. It is evident that the difference between the indicated and brake horse-power is the power required to run the engine, that is, to overcome the friction in the engine itself and sometimes in the brake also. Since we can know the speed of the revolving shaft, FIG. 22. ENGINE BELTED TO PRONY BRAKE. the scale reading and the distance in feet that the point at which the scales are applied would travel in one revo- lution if allowed to turn with the shaft, we can determine the horse-power by multiplying these three amounts to- gether and dividing by 33,000. Sometimes the radius of the circle that the scales act on, or "brake-arm" as it is called, is made 63 inches and when this is the case the calculating is simplified because it is then only necessary to multiply the number of revolutions per minute by the number of pounds shown by the scales and divide the prod- uct by 1,000 in order to determine the horse-power. A good example of a Prony brake is shown in Fig. 23. 8o SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING The friction wheel on this has inner and outer flanges on the rim. The friction band consists of a flexible strap of steel with wooden blocks attached to it to form the friction surfaces. The desired tension on the band is obtained by means of the adjusting screw with hand-wheel. The brake-arm rests on a knife-edge on the top of a post which in turn rests on a platform scale. Overheating is prevented FIG. 23. PRONY BRAKE. by keeping a flov/ of cooling water on the inside of the rim. Centrifugal force and the flanges hold the water against the inside of the rim when the wheel is in motion. A pipe with its end in the form of a scoop removes the heated water while another continuallv dischars^es fresh water into the rim. Heavy grease is applied to the rubbing surfaces. THE ENGINE PROPER 8l There are several other forms of Prony brake in com- mon use. A very satisfactory one is similar to the one in the cut except that the band is tightened by a lever and weights instead of the screw. The influence of these tension weights on the scale reading must be taken into account, but otherwise this arrangement has an advantage since the tension on the band is not changed by contraction and expansion due to changes in temperature. In another form of the Prony brake, sometimes called a *Vope brake,'* several strands of rope are used in place of the friction band with wood blocks. The principle, however, is the same in all. Drazv-Bar Horse-Pozver. Since we know that horse- power is simply force in pounds multiplied by the dis- tance in feet travelled in one minute and divided by 33,000, it is a very simple matter to determine the horse-power being delivered at the draw-bar of a traction engine. For this purpose a draw-bar dynamometer is used. This in- strument is simply a form of spring scales of suitable proportions and is sometimes provided with a recording device. Calculating the Horse-Pozver. Although, as already stated, the average pressure on the piston can be meas- ured only by means of the steam-engine indicator, we can, for calculation, assume a value for it that is ac- curate enough for ordinary purposes. This we will take to be fifty per cent, of the boiler pressure, a value which 82 SCIENCE 0]? SUCCESSFUIv THRESHING closely approximates the actual one for engines of the class we are dealing with. Then, with a boiler pressure of one hundred and thirty pounds, our average effective pressure (or ''mean effective pressure," as it is called) per square inch will be fifty per cent, of one hundred and thirty pounds, or sixty-five pounds. The formula commonly used for determining the horse-power of an engine is as fol- lows: PLAN _ 33,000 — -^- ■^• in which P = mean effective pressure. L = length of stroke in feet. A ^ area of piston in square inches. N = number of strokes per minute, or twice the number of revolutions. The area of a circle is equal to its diameter multiplied by itself and the product by .7854. To show the applica- tion of this formula, we will take, for example, an engine with a 9-inch bore, a lo-inch stroke, a speed of 250 revo- lutions per minute and a boiler pressure of 130 pounds — the size of the forty-five horse-power Case engine : P = 50% of 130 = 65 pounds. L = 10 -^ 12 or .833 feet. A = 9 X 9 X .7854 = 63.617 sq. inches. N = 250x2 = 500 strokes per minute. Substituting these values for the letters in the formula, we sfet : ^ 65 x. 833x63.617x500 ^^ ^ , 00 ^^w^ = 52.2 horse-power. Since this is the power developed in the cylinder, it corresponds to the indicated horse-power, and it is greater than the horse-power delivered at the fly-wheel or brake horse-power by about ten per cent. Subtracting this ten THE ENGINE PROPER 83 per cent., we have 47 brake horse-power as the result. In applying- the above formula, several of the same figures always occur, and we may combine these in order to make our formula as simple as possible. When we have done this, we have it in the following form : PxLxDxDxNxl8 _ p 10,000,000 "" ■ ■ in which P = boiler pressure in pounds per sq. inch. L r=: length of stroke in inches. D :=: cylinder bore in inches. N=: number of revolutions. This may be stated in the form of a rule v/hich can be readily applied by any one. This rule is as follows : Multiply together the h oiler-pressure, the length of the stroke in inches, the cylinder bore in inches, again the bore in inches, and this product finally by 18. Divide the result by 10,000,000 (which is simply pointing off seven places), and the quotient is the brake horse-power. The following illustrates the application of this rule to the Case forty-five horse engine : 180=: boiler pressure. 10 z::^ length of stroke in inches. 1.300 9: ^cylinder bore in inches, 11,700 9: =r cylinder bore in inches. 105,300 250: = revolutions per minute. 5,265,000 21,060,000 26,320,000 18 : =:the constant. 210,560,000 263,200.000 473,760,000 84 SCIENCE OF SUCCDSSFUIy THRESHING Dividing by 10,000,000, or pointing off seven places, we get 47.4=brake horse-power. Compounded Engines. A compounded engine is one in which the steam is expanded in two or more cyhnders. Threshing engines, when compounded, are ''two-cyhnder" compounds, but large stationary and marine engines are often ''triple" and sometimes "quadruple" expansion. FIG. 24. SECTIONAL VIEW OF "vVOOLF" COMPOUNDED CYLINDER. There are different types of two-cylinder compounds, viz. : the "cross," where the cylinders are abreast and each piston connected to a separate crank ; the "trunk," in which two pistons of the same size are connected by an enlarged rod or trunk, the high-pressure cylinder being in the form of an annular ring between the pistons, and the low- pressure at the ends of the long cylinder which is the same the: engine: proper 85 bore throughout; and the ''tandem," having one cyHnder behind the other, with both pistons on the same rod. The latter has proved to be the type best adapted for use on farm and traction engines. The Woolf Compound. The cut Fig. 24 shows a sectional view of the "Woolf'-tandem-compound cyl- inder used on "Case" compound engines. Its operation is as follows: The steam from the boiler enters the valve (which is hollow), through the large opening at the crank end, passes through the valve and out at the narrow open- ing near the head end, which, as the valve moves, alter- nately comes opposite the two ports leading to the ends of the small or high pressure cylinder. The valve in moving also alternately uncovers these ports, allowing the high-pressure cylinder to exhaust into the steam chest. The low-pres- sure cylinder receives the steam from the steam chest, and ex- h a u s t s (through the heater) into the stack, in exactly the same manner as a simple engine. The valve is ''balanced" because high-pressure steam is under and tending to lift it, while the low-pressure steam FACE OF COMPOUNDED VALVE. 86 scie:nce o^ successfuIv threshing is on top, and pressing it against its seat. When the engine is running with a light load, the pressure is sometimes insufficient to hold the valve against its seat, in which case a loud clattering noise is made by the valve as it rises from and returns to its seat. To prevent FIG. 2D. PIPE TO STEAM PLUGS. this, two stcam plugs are placed in the chambered steam-chest cover, so that, when the valve in the small steam pipe connecting this chamber with the main steam-pipe is open, the live steam pressure against the plugs holds the valve against its seat. To Take Apart the Compounded Cylinder. To take out the pistons for renev/ing the piston-rings or for other purposes, first unbolt and remove the high-pressure cyl- inder. Then loosen the jam-nut and unscrew the rod from the cross-head by turning the pistons. The rod with the two pistons and the center-head may now be pulled out. In replacing the cylinder, loosen the three (or four), set-screws, which hold the center-head in position, and after the high-pressure cylinder is bolted in place, tighten them up in order to hold the center-head in position and prevent leakage. If the asbestos gasket has been injured it will be necessary to put in a new one. THE ENGINE PROPER 87 Center-Head Packing. Leakage around the rod, be- tween the two cyhnders, is prevented by metalHc packing, which, v/ith sufficient lubrication and clean water in the boiler, will re- main tight dur- msr the engine, FIG. 27. THE CENTER-HEAD PACKING. the life of The ace ompanying cuts show a side and a sectional view of the me- tallic piston-rod packing which is located in the center-head between the high and low-pressure cylinders. In the side view, the rings G and B are removed. The center-head is represented by A. The iron-packing rings D and E are each in three parts or segments and are held in their proper places by the spring C. These segments of rings are so placed that they "break joints," as can readily be seen from the side elevation. They are held in position, relative to each other, by the dowel pin, H. These packing rings are held in place by the ring B, and also by the ring G, which is fastened to the head with three cap-screws, F. The head is held in its position between the cylinders by set-screws, as can readily be seen from Fig. 24. To Test the Center-Head Packing, set the reverse lever 88 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUI. THRESHING for, say, the threshing motion and turn the engine in the direction in which it would run, just past the crank-end dead-center. Block the cross-head so that the crank-shaft cannot revolve, disconnect the cylinder-cock rod, and open the throttle. This will admit steam on the crank-end of the high pressure cylinder, and if the cylinder-cock on the head-end of the low-pressure cylinder blows steam when opened, it can come only from leakage of the metallic packing in the center-head. CHAPTER VII THE VALVE-GEAR r^y^HE mechanism that operates the valve of an engine B is known as the 'Valve-gear." On stationary or portable engines, v/hich are only required to run in one direction, the valve gear consists simply of an eccentric on the crank shaft (to which the valve stem is connected by means of the eccentric-rod), and a guide to keep the valve-stem in alignment. As traction engines must be run in both directions, a reversing valve gear is required, which necessarily renders the valve gear more complicated. There have been numerous mechanisms in- vented for this purpose, but most traction engines are equipped with either the "link" or the Woolf reverse, as these are almost the only ones that have withstood the test of time. It is apparent, that, in order to use steam econom- ically, it must be allowed to pass in and out of the cylinder at precisely the right moments, and during certain inter- vals. Consequently, the economy of a steam engine de- pends almost entirely upon the valve-gear, which should, therefore, be kept in good repair. The ease with which the valve is moved, depends largely upon its lubrication. 89 t:^ h 00 THE VALVE-GEAR 91 If the valve be allowed to run dry, the valve-gear is sub- jected to an immense amount of unnecessary work, which soon wears it, so that the valve does not move as it should, and the engine becomes wasteful in its use of steam. The valve should be well lubricated at all times, the wearing parts of the valve-gear should be oiled frequently and eveiy precaution taken to keep the valve-gear in first class con- dition. The wear should be taken up as fast as it appears so that the parts are not allowed to pound. The Woolf Valve-Gear. The Woolf valve-gear pos- sesses advantages over the other devices used for reversing traction engines, which entitle it to rank as the most popu- lar and satisfactory means for this purpose known at the present time. It is very simple, consisting of a single eccentric, the "strap" of which is extended to form an arm; to the end of this arm is pivoted a block, which slides in a guide connected to the hand lever and pivoted in such a way that the angle of the block's path depends upon the position of the hand lever; the eccentric rod transmits the motion from the eccentric arm (to which it is connected), to the valve stem through a rocker arm or guided "slide.'* It will be seen that the angle of the "block guide" de- termines the amount of travel of the valve. By placing the reverse lever at or near the center of the quadrant, the reverse gear acts as an efficient brake in controlling the en- gine when descending hills, or at any time when it is desir- able to suddenly check the speed of the engine. This reverse 92 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSEUIv THRESHING allows of "hooking up," that is, placing the lever in notches between the end and center of the quadrant. In these positions, the valve travel is reduced and the points of "cut-off" made earlier, which, of course, lessens the amount of steam required. It is, therefore, economy to run the engine "hooked up" whenever its load will allow. Pro- vision is made for taking up lost motion in the parts sub- jected to wear. All the joints should be kept well oiled, but the only parts which require frequent attention in this respect, are the eccentric and the sliding block. When the valve is sufficiently lubricated, and the valve-gear is prop- erly oiled and adjusted, the reverse lever is easily handled, when under a full head of steam. Caution Against Disturbing the Valve Setting. It so often happens that an expert, when called to an engine, finds that the valve has been re-set after the engine left the factory, that it seems best, at this point, to say a few words of caution against disturbing the valve of a new engine. Let us advise you not to jump to the conclusion that your valve is incorrectly constructed or improperly set. Remember that the engine has been designed and built by experienced men, thoroughly competent to make it all that it should be. Remember, too, that the engine has been tested at the factory, in the belt and on the road with heavy loads, within sight and hearing of a dozen men, whose long experience has made them so critical that they could not fail to detect anything wrong in the engine's performance. the; vai,ve-gear 93^ Let us add that in nine cases out of ten, where an expert is called to reset a valve, he finds that it has been disturbed since it left the testing room. Do not, then, conclude that your valve is ''off," until you have carefully investigated whatever trouble there may be. There are men in nearly every locality throughout the country, who are confident that they themselves know more about setting valves than do the manufacturers. These men affirm that whatever trouble they may have is due to the working of the valve, and, when no improvement is shown after they have reset it, they say that the valve- gear was not properly constructed and designed originally. If they had carefully investigated the trouble before dis- turbing the valve, they would have discovered the real cause, due probably to either insufficient cylinder and valve lubrication, or to a priming tendency of the boiler. The causes of, and the remedies for these difficulties are dis- cussed elsewhere in this book. Finding the ''Dead Centers/' An engine is on its "dead center" v/hen a line drawn through the center of the piston-rod will pass through the center of the crank- pin. There are two, the "crank" dead-center, when the piston is at the end of the cylinder nearest the crank-shaft, and the "head" dead-center, when the piston is at the op- posite end. An engine is said to be running "over" when the top of rim of fly-wheel runs away from the cylinder and running "under" when the top of rim of fly-wheel runs 94 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUIv THRESHING towards the cylinder. ''Case'' engines are marked for finding the dead-centers at the factory, and by applying one of the company's trams, as indicated in Fig. 29, they may be readily placed on either dead-center. It may be necessary to scrape off the paint to find the prick-punch marks on the frame and on the crank-disc. The tram shown in the illustration measures eight and three-six- teenths inches between the points, which size has been used by the "Case" company for many years. It will be seen that a "Case" engine may be put on its dead cen- ters by using a pair of dividers set to this distance, but they do not serve the purpose as well as the tram. The following method of finding the dead centers is the one used at the factory, and is generally used on all styles of engines. To put it into use, first take up all lost motion in the connecting-rod brasses, crank-shaft bearing and cross-head shoes. Then turn the engine until the piston lacks an inch or so of completing its stroke. Make a prick-punch mark at any convenient place ori the cross- head (see Fig. 30), insert one point of the tram in the mark and with the other point, make a scratch on the engine frame to locate a second prick-punch mark. The FIG. 29. TRAM ON DISC. THK VALVE-GEAR 95 tram points should now measure the exact distance be- tween the tvv^o marks and when appHed should be nearly parallel to the piston-rod, as shown in Fig. 30. In the same manner, a mark should be made at any convenient place on the frame near the crank-disc, a scratch made on the disc (which should come across the face of the disc), and a light prick-punch mark made on the disc, so that the tram measures the exact distance between the marks, as shown in Fig. 29. Next, turn the ens^ine until the cross-head comes back to the same place, but with the crank-pin on the other side of the dead-center, holding the tram with one point in the mark on the frame, near the guides, and the other so that it will drop into the cross-head prick-punch mark when it comes to the right place. Next, place one leg of the tram in the other mark on the frame and make a scratch on the disc as before, to locate the second mark on the rim of the crank-disc. When this is done, find the mid-point between the two marks (wlrich are tem- porary), on the disc, with a pair of dividers, mark it clearly, and then destroy the two original marks. The other dead-center is found in the same manner. Now when the crank-disc is turned around until the tram point FIG. 30. TRAM ON CROSS-HEAD. 96 scie:nce o^ successful threshing drops into one of the marks on it, the engine will be on either of its dead-centers. With engines, on which the crank-disc is not easily reached, the prick-punch marks for the tram are usually located on the fly-wheel rim. They were so placed on "Case" center-crank engines. In placing the engine on its dead-centers, in examin- ing the valve setting, or in setting the valve, it should always be turned in the direction indicated by the reverse lever, that is, if the reverse lever is in the forward end of the quadrant, the engine should be turned "under," or in the direction in which it runs when threshing. If turned past the mark, it should be turned the opposite way and again brought to the mark, moving in the right direction. This eliminates any error due to lost motion. To Determine if the Valve Setting has been Disturbed. New engines have their valves set at the factory before being painted, so that broken paint often reveals the fact that someone has re-set the valve. Besides this indication, "Case" engines are provided with marks, by means of which, one can determine whether or not the valve setting has been disturbed since the engine left the factory and, if it has been disturbed, furnish the means to bring it back to the original setting without removing the steam chest cover. The eccentric hub and the shaft are marked, as with a sharp cold chisel, so that the marks meet when the eccentric is in its proper position. When one suspects that the eccentric has slipped from its original position, an ex- THE VAIvVE-GEAR 97 amination of these marks will show whether it has or has not. If it has slipped, the trouble may be corrected by loosening the set-screws and rotating it around the shaft until the marks correspond. An eccentric is liable to slip when it becomes hot from running without oil and this tendency in such cases is sometimes strong enough to draw over or even shear off the points of the set screws which secure the eccentric. Besides the marks on the eccentric, there are marks on the valve-stem and its stuffing-box, in order to make apparent any change in the length of the valve-rod or the eccentric-rod. To use these marks, however, one should have one of the Company's valve-rod trams. This is shorter than the one used on the crank-disc and measures exactly four and three-sixteenths inches between points. It is used as shown in Fig. 31. There are two marks on the valve-stem and they should be on top. When the reverse lever is at the rear end of the quadrant, (i. e., the road motion), and the engine is placed on one of its dead centers, the valve-rod tram should drop into one of the marks, and when the engine is placed on its other dead-center, the tram should drop into the other mark. If the tram 7 FIG. 31. TRAM ON VALVE-STEM. 98 SCIENCE 01^ SUCCESSFUIv THRESHING points do not drop into the marks, the eccentric rod should be adjusted as to length until they do or else the valve must be entirely re-set as explained below. Hozu to Set the Valve on Engines with Woolf Reverse. After having taken up all the lost motion on the valve- gear, main-bearings, crank-pin and cross-head pin and shoes, and being provided with the tram for placing the engine on its dead-centers, as explained, proceed to set the valve as follows : First. Length of Reacli^Rod. See that the "reach- rod" from the "reverse-lever" to the "block-guide" is of such length that the valve moves the same distance during a revolution of the fly-wheel in one direction as for a revolution in the opposite direction, with the reverse-lever in the corresponding end notch of the quadrant in both cases. The entire distance the valve moves, which is called the "valve travel," may be conveniently measured on the valve stem by the tram, as illustrated in Fig. 31, or by a pair of dividers or compasses. To do this hold one of the tram points in the punch-mark on the stuffing-box and, with the other, make scratches across the rod as the fly-wheel is slowly revolved. If the "valve travel" be more for one motion than for the other, it shows that the reach-rod is either too long or too short to give the proper angularity to the block-guide, which angularity determines the travel of the valve. This rod can be easily adjusted to the correct length by taking the pin out of the Tlli: VAIvVE-GEAR 99 lever and turning the forked head on the rod until the required length is obtained. The jam-nut should then be tightened to prevent lost motion. Second. Location of Bccentric. See that the eccentric is in the proper position, v^hich is, with its point of great- est throw nearly opposite the engine crank-pin on all engines except the one hundred and ten horse-power, on which it is in line with the crank-pin. The movement of the valve in throv/ing the lever from one end notch to the other end notch of the quadrant, with the engine on its dead-center, is called the "slip." When the eccentric is properly located, the ''slip" will be the same for "head" dead-center as for "crank" dead-center. The "slip" must not only be alike in amount, but must also be in the same direction as that in which the lever is moved, in both cases. If the "slip" be with the lever for one dead- center, and against it for the other, the eccentric is not in the correct position, and should be rotated slightly on the shaft, until the "slip" is in the same direction as that in which the lever is moved, for both dead-centers. If it be impossible to get this, the pedestal is not the right height, as explained in the following paragraph. In setting the eccentric, one set-screw will hold it in place temporarily. Third. Height of Pedestal. See that the pedestal is the correct height. The amount of "slip" indicates this, and if it be one-sixteenth for both dead-centers, and in lOO SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUIv THRESHING the same direction as that in which the lever is moved, the pedestal is the proper height. If the pedestal be too high, the "slip" of the valve will be more than one-six- teenth, and if too low, it will be less or none at all, or if very low, the valve stem will move in the opposite direction to that in which the reverse lever is moved. The pedestal may be raised, by placing "shims" of sheet-iron between it and the frame at the place where it is bolted, and lowered by removing the "shims." If there be none, the pedestal must be taken to a machine-shop and planed off in order to lower it. Fourth. Dividing the Leads. When you know that the reach-rod is the correct length; that the eccentric is in the proper position, and that the pedestal is the correct height, give the valve three-thirty-seconds of an inch "lead" on the crank-end for the threshing-motion. The "slip" of the valve, in throwing the lever over to the road motion, will reduce this lead by one-sixteenth, so that the leads will be nearly alike for the road motion. The "lead" should be obtained by adjusting the length of the ecceintric-rod, allowing the nuts on the valve-stem to remain undisturbed. If the nuts on valve-stem be loos- ened, the "draw-block" is liable to be tilted so that the valve cannot leave its seat (without bending the rod), when necessary to let water out of cylinder. It is best, after setting the valve, to go all over it again from the beginning, and if all be found correct, the eccen- THE VAI.VE-GEAR lOI trie may be set permanently by tightening both set-screws, for whicli there are counter-sunk depressions in the shaft. It sometimes happens when the eccentric strap has been set up too tightly, or has been allowed to become dry and hot, that the eccentric hub rotates a little on the shaft, drawing the holes and set screws slightly. If necessary, the depressions may be changed by slid- ing the eccentric-hub to one side (after having removed the eccentric-strap), and chipping them out with a round- nose chisel so that the deepest part is in the required position for the set-screw. The eccentric-hub and shaft should be marked (as is done at the factory), with a cold- chisel, so that should the eccentric slip, the slippage can be discovered and the eccentric readily re-set. In any style of valve-gear the "lead" is changed by rotating the eccentric around the shaft. It will be seen that the Woolf reverse, having but one eccentric cannot be adjusted to change the lead, because if the lead be increased for engine running "over," it will be decreased for engine running "under," and vice versa. There is therefore but one position for the eccentric. This is de- termined at the factory, and on "Case" engines built since 1898 the main shaft is countersunk for the set screws. Bven Cut-offs. The above is the method used in set-, ting the valve on Thirty, Thirty-six, Forty-iive, Sixty and Seventy-five horse-power "Case" traction engines at the factory, and brake and indicator tests show that these 102 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUIv THRESHING engines, with their valves so set, easily develop their rated horse-power, and are very economical. It will be seen that this riiethod of setting- the valve gives unequal "leads" for the threshing-motion, there being three-thirty- seconds of an inch on the crank-end and no lead on the head-end. The points of cut-off, however, will be "even," that is, substantially alike on both ends, for both road and threshing'-motions. Equal Leads. Were it desirable to set the valve with equal "leads," it could be done by m.aking the pedestal of such a height that there would be no "slip." In this case, the points of cut-off would not be even, and one end of the cylinder would do more work than the other. For this, and other reasons, this method is not recommended. Setting the Valve on Compounds. The valve of the Woolf-compound cylinder is set in exactly the same man- ner as that of a simple engine, the part of valve covering low-pressure ports only, being considered. Hoiv to Set Valve on Portable Bngines. See that there is no lost motion in the connecting-rod brasses, main bearings and the valve-rod connections, the latter being most important. Remove steam-chest cover. Now, with the eccentric secured to the crank-shaft, slowly turn the fly-wheel in order to see that the valve travels an equal amount on each side of the ports. This may be conveniently determined by making fine scratches on the valve seat along the edges of the valve when in its ex- THE VALVK-GEAR IO3 treme positions and then measuring the distances between the scratches and the edges of the ports. If a difference exists in these measurements, adjust the valve stem by lengthening* or shortening it, as the case may require, until the valve travels the same distance past the tvv^o ports. Next, place the engine on one of its dead centers, as ex- plained on page 93, and unless the valve shows one thirty-second of an inch opening or lead at the port lead- ing to the end of the cylinder where the piston is, the eccentric is not in the correct position. If it is not, loosen it from the crank-shaft and rotate it until it is about one- quarter revolution ahead of the crank-pin in the direction in which the engine is to run, Vv-atching the valve as the eccentric is revolved, until the port has opened exactly one thirty-second of an inch. Tighten the set screw in the eccentric and place the engine on the opposite dead- center, and the port opening will be found to be just one thirty-second of an inch also, providing the work has been carefully done. The above instructions apply for setting the valve to run the engine in either direction, it being only neces- sary to see that the eccentric is always a little more than one-quarter revolution ahead of the crank-pin in the direc- tion in which the engine is to run. ''Case" portable engines are alv\rays set at the factory to run "under" unless otherwise ordered. Setting a Valve with Link Reverse. After having I04 SCIENCE OJ? SUCCESSFUIv THRESHING taken up all the lost motion, as explained, the first thing to do, in setting the valve on an engine equipped with the "link" reverse, is to find the correct length of the eccentric-rods. To do this, take off the steam-chest cover and place the reverse lever in the last notch at either end of the quadrant. Now, with a scratch-awl having a very fine point, make scratches on the valve seat, show- ing the extreme position of the valve at each end of its travel as the fly-wheel is revolved. Measure from the marks to the outside edges of the steam ports, and, if there be any difference, divide it up by lengthening or shorten- ing the eccentric-rod, that is for the time being, moving the valve. The length of the other rod is found in the same way, the reverse-lever being at the opposite end of the quadrant. If the engine be marked and you have the "tram" for placing it on the centers, as already explained, proceed to set the valve as follows: After the lengths of the eccentric-rods are correctly adjusted, according to the method already given, place the engine on one of its dead-centers, say, the head one, and set the reverse lever in the last notch at either end of the quadrant. The valve should now be in such a position that the port leading to the head end of the cylinder should show a "lead" equal to the thickness of an ordinary playing card. The amount of lead may be varied by rotating the eccentric hub around the shaft. Rotating it in the direction in which the engine is to run increases the lead and moving it in the opposite THE VALVE-GEAR 105 direction decreases the lead. When you have obtained the desired lead, place the engine on the other dead-center and see if the lead be the same. If it be not, the valve- stem should be lengthened or shortened (by means of adjusting nuts), until it is the same. If, after dividing the lead, there be too much or too little, rotate the eccentric hub on the shaft, until the required lead is obtained- at both ends. The valve is now set for the engine running either ''over" or ''under," according to the end of the quadrant at which the reverse lever was set. The reverse- lever may now be placed in the other end of the quadrant and the valve set for the other motion. This is done in the same manner, except that the dividing of the lead must now be done on the eccentric-rod instead of the valve-stem, so that the first setting will not be disturbed. When this is done, try the other motion again, so that when you are through, you know that the lead is the same for both dead-centers for the engine running either over or under. The draw-block should be examined to insure its not being so tipped as to prevent the valve from rising from its seat when necessary to let water out of the cylinder. With the link reverse, the lead can be as much or as little as desired and need not be the samie for both motions. However, lead equal to the thickness of a playing card will give the best results for this class of engines. CHAPTER VIII THE BOILER iHE function of the boiler is to heat water sufB- ciently to change it into steam, for use in an engine, or for other purposes. The supply of water for the boiler has been treated under *'The Feed Water" in Chapter II, and the management of the fire with various fuels under ^'Firing" in Chapter III. Boiler Fittings. The fittings necessary for the opera- tion of a boiler, are the feeder (for supplying the water), glass gage and gage cocks (for indicating the water level), a steam gage (for indicating the pressure), a pop or safety valve (to prevent the pressure from reaching a dangerous height), and a "blow-off" valve (for draining the boiler) . A boiler is usually fitted also with a whistle for signaling, a fusible plug and a blower for forcing the draft. The water feeders, water glass and gage cocks have been treated under ''Feed Water" in Chapter 11. The Steam Gage. The steam gage indicates the steam pressure in the boiler in pounds per square inch. The cut shows the interior of the gage used on "Case" engines. The curved tube or Bourdon spring has an oval cross sec- tion, and when exposed to pressure from the inside, tends 107 io8 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING to Straighten, as a hose will do when under pressure. The free end of the Bourdon tube is connected to the hand or pointer by means of a seg- ment lever and pinion so that the pointer, which is on the same shaft as the pinion, revolves, in- dicating on the dial the pressure on the inside of the tube, which is the same as that in the boiler. The black dial with white fisf- ures and graduations is pre- FIG. 33. INTERIOR OF GAGE. f^^.^.^^ ^^ ^^^^^ ^^ aCCOUUt Of the ease with which the figures are seen at night. The Steam-Gage Siphon. In order to prevent the temper of the tube of the gage from being drawn by the hot steam, a device, consisting of a bulb containing two small tubes is placed be- tween the gage and the boiler. The sectional view of this ''siphon," as it is called, shows a small tube extending upward to the top of the chamber, and another depending downward towards the bottom. The entering steam will be deflected to the bottom of the cham- ber where it is condensed, thus effect- FiG. 34. SECTION ^^^^y preventing any live steam from OF SIPHON. entering the gage. THE BOII^ER 109 The stop-cocks that are placed in some steam-gage siphons should always be left open. The Pop Safety Valve. The safety valve opens when the pressure reaches a certain point, allowing the excess steam to escape and closes when the pressure has been reduced a few pounds. The valves are usually set at the factory to blow off at one hundred and thirty pounds. If a change of pressure be desired, un- screw the jam nut at the top and apply the key, pro- vided for this purpose, to the pressure screw. For more pressure, screw down; for less, unscrew. After having obtained the desired pressure, screw the jam nut down tight on the pressure screw. To regulate the opening and closing action of the valve, take the pointed end of a file and apply it to the teeth of the regulator. If the valve closes with too much loss of boiler pressure, move the regulator to the right. This can be done when the valve is at the point of blowing off. FIG. 35. SECTIONAL VIEW OF POP VALVE. no science: 01^ succEssi^uiv Threshing The Blower. The blower consists simply of a pipe leading from the boiler to a nozzle in the smoke-stack. In the pipe is a valve for shutting off the steam. On traction engines usually a rod is fitted to this valve, allowing it to be operated from the platform. The blower is intended for use only in raising steam, when the engine is not running. When the engine is running, its exhaust is dis- charged into the smoke-stack, creating what is known as *' forced" draft, as distinguished from "natural" draft, which is due only to the height of the chimney. When an engine has been running and is temporarily shut down the blower should not be used unless the entire grate sur- face is covered with burning fuel. If the blower be used soon after shutting down and the grates are not entirely covered with burning fuel, cold air will pass through the dead places in the grates direct to the tubes, cooling them suddenly and rendering them liable to leak. The Fusible Plug, sometimes called the "safety-plug" or "soft-plug," is intended to melt and prevent the crown- sheet from injury by low water. However, it cannot be entirely relied on, for the upper end is apt to get coated with lime or scale and render it useless. It should be taken out two or three times during the season and scraped clean, and a new plug should be put FUSIBLE PLUG iH or thc oM one refilled at the beginning of SECTION, ^^^j^ threshing season. In screwing the plug THE BOILER III into the crown sheet, see that it goes in a sufficient dis- tance, so that the remaining lower end does not extend into the fire-box so far as to incur danger of its ''melting out" when there is plenty of water in the boiler. The plug shown in Fig. 36 has no thread at the upper end so this cannot happen, but on some plugs the thread extends nearly the whole length. If a plug ''melts out" in the field, it may be temporarily filled with lead or babbitt metal if no tin is to be had. Putty or moist clay will stop up the bottom of the hole while pouring. When cool, rivet it a little to be sure that it is tight. A shovel or long- handled iron spoon will serve to melt the metal if a ladle be not at hand. The melting point of lead is 610 degrees F., and of babbitt metal about 650 degrees F. A proper material for soft plugs is commercial tin, the melting point of which is about 450 degrees F., or an alloy of two parts of lead and one of tin, having a melting point of 440 de- grees F. Either will melt before the steel sheet is injured. In some places the law requires the use of Banca tin in fusible plugs. This metal has a melting point of 450 degrees F. Foaming. When a boiler is "foaming," the water in the glass appears roily and the level changes rapidly, the glass appearing full one moment and nearly empty the next. Dirty water is usually the cause of foaming, alkali or soap in any quantity being especially bad. No one should be allowed to wash in the tank, as even a small amount of soap is liable to cause trouble. On account 112 SCIKNCE; 01? SUCCESSFUIv THRESHING of the soap used as a lubricant on the taps in manufacture, new boilers are liable to foam until they are washed out two or three times. It is difficult to tell exactly how much water there is in a foaming boiler, but it is probable that some of it is being drawn over with the steam, and there- fore, the pump should feed more than the usual amount. Do not run too long with a foaming boiler, but close the throttle occasionally to see how full the boiler is when the water settles. The remedy for foaming is to keep the boiler clean and to use clean water. Foaming often causes priming. Foaming and priming are more apt to occur with low than with high steam pressure. Priming. When water is drawn over into the cylinder with the steam, the engine is said to "prime." A priming engine appears to be working very hard, exhausting heav- ily, throwing water from the stack and often making a loud knocking or pounding noise in the cylinder. Prim- ing may be caused by: i. Too high a level of water in the boiler. 2. Too low steam pressure. 3. Engine work- ing hard with the front of the boiler low. 4. Boiler work- ing beyond its capacity. 5. Foaming. 6. Piston rings or valve leaking. 7. Valve improperly set. In case the engine should begin to prime, the cylinder cocks should be opened and the throttle partially closed, so that the engine runs quite slowly, until dry steam comes from the cylinder cocks. Priming is liable to knock out a cylinder head, break the piston-head or cross-head, or do THE BOII.ER 113 Other serious damage to the engine. It always washes the oil from the cylinder and valve, thereby causing the latter to squeak. The lubricator or oil pump should be allowed to feed quite freely after priming, or serious injury to the valve-gear may result. Painting the Boiler. The greater part of the boiler can be kept black and looking well by rubbing with oily waste or rags. The front end of the boiler, around the smoke- box, and the smoke-stack require painting from time to time to prevent them from becoming rusty and unsightly. For this, asphaltum (which may be thinned with turpen- tine or benzine), or boiled linseed oil mixed with a little lamp black, is suitable. The entire boiler may also be painted with either of these when necessary. Cleaning the Boiler. No fixed rule can be given as to the frequency with which a boiler should be washed out. In some localities it is necessary to clean it twice a week, while in others, where the water is almost perfectly clean and pure, once in six weeks is sufficient. In emptying the boiler preparatory to cleaning, be sure that all of the fire is out, and that the steam pressure is below ten pounds before opening the blow-off valve. This is necessary, in order to prevent the mud from becoming baked on the tubes and sheets. See that the fire door, smoke-box door and drafts are all closed to prevent the boiler from cooling too quickly. To clean the boiler, remove the plugs or hand-hole plates in the water-leg and also the one at the bottom of the front 114 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING tube-sheet. Wash the boiler thoroughly with a hose, using as much pressure as possible. Most of the sediment will be found around the "water-leg" and along the bottom of the barrel. In some localities, sediment lodges against the fire-box tube-sheet, causing the tubes to leak. When this happens, a plug is necessary in the boiler barrel above this sheet so that the sediment can be washed off with a hose when the boiler is cleaned out. Packing Hand-Hole Plates. After the boiler has been cleaned, the hand-holes must be re-packed, for it seldom happens that a gasket can be used the second time. For re -packing, it is best to use the purchased gaskets, which can be bought cut ready for use. If preferred, they may be cut from sheet rubber packing by the engineer. Other substances, such as sheet asbestos, card-board, straw- board, or rubber belting are sometimes used, but the most satisfactory material for this purpose is two-ply sheet rubber, which is about one-eighth of an inch thick. The gasket should be cut so as to fit closely around the flange on the plate and should lie flat. Before the hand-hole plate is replaced, the nut should be oiled and screwed back and forth the whole length of the thread on the bolt, using a wrench if necessary, until it may be easily turned with the fingers. The inside of the boiler plate and the face of the hand-hole plate, where the packing touches, should be scraped as clean and smooth as possible. Care must be taken in inserting the plate, to prevent displacing the THE BOILER 115 gasket. When the hand-hole plate is in place, the nut should not be screwed down too tightly, when the engine is cold, as the gasket may be injured so that it would not stand steam pressure. It is best to screw up the nut only moderately tight when cold, and turn it up a little more with a wrench when steam begins to show on the gage, and then a little more from time to time until the steam gage shows working pressure. In this way, the rubber has a chance to soften with the heat and adapt itself to the iron surfaces. Cleaning the Tubes. The tubes should be cleaned at least once each day, whether in burning coal, wood or straw. The tube scraper is adjustable, and may be set out while in the tube by turning the rod to the right. Turning the rod to the left decreases the size of the scraper. Soot is a very poor conductor of heat, and even a thin coating of it affects the efficiency of the boiler to a considerable extent. It is therefore, essential to keep the scraper well set out, so that all the soot will be removed. Expanding and Beading the Tubes. Leaky tubes should be fixed the first time the engine cools. When the steam no longer shows on the gage, remove the ash-pan bottom and grates ; also the bricks, if the engine be a straw burner. If the leaks be only slight ones, they may be stopped by simply using a beading tool. To do this clean the end of the tube and the tube sheet and place the long or guiding end of the tool within the tube. Use a small Il6 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUL THRESHING hammer, and with light blows bead the tube all around, moving the tool slightly at each blow. The beading tool may be used when there is water in the boiler, but care must be taken to use only very light blows of the hammer or the concussion will be transmitted by the water and loosen other tubes. Having water in the boiler when beading the tubes has the advantage of showing the leaks so that it may be known when the tube is tight. If the leaks be more serious, it will be necessary to use an ex- pander. The expander requires considerable care and some experience to use, and in the hands of an inexper- ienced or careless workman, may cause great damage by distorting the flue sheet, or rolling the tubes thin and worthless. In using the roller expander, place the flange against the tube sheet and drive the pin in with a few light blows. Then turn it back and forth with a wrench until it loosens. Drive the pin in again, and repeat the opera- tion several times. The roller expander may be used when there is water in the boiler. If a spring or plug expander be used, be sure that it is the right size, and is made to fit the thickness of the flue sheet in your boiler. This is very important. To use the spring expander, place it within the tube with the shoulder well up against the tube sheet. Drive in the taper pin with a few light blows and then jar it out by striking it on the side. Repeat several times, turning the expander a little each time, until it has made a complete revolution. The spring expander cannot be usexl THE BOILER 117 when there is water in the boiler, as the jar of the hammer- blows will be transmitted to the other tubes and loosen them. Use plenty of oil on either style of expander, and carefully clean the end of the tube of soot and scale before inserting the tool. Care must be taken, in expanding" the tubes, not to expand them so hard as to stretch or en- large the hole in the tube sheet, and thereby loosen the adjoining tubes. When all of the leaky tubes have been expanded, they must be beaded down against the sheet with the beading tool. Danger of Using an Old Boiler. There is danger of a boiler exploding with plenty of water in it, if any part has corroded or been weakened so that a considerable por- tion of it is liable to give way at any time. The water in a steam boiler under pressure, is explosive, and any- thing that reduces the pressure suddenly, will precipitate an explosion. Return flue boilers are especially dangerous when old, on account of the weakness of the large flue. How to Test a Boiler, To test an old boiler, so that one is sure of its exact condition, is not an easy matter. One method is by tapping with a small hammer, but when coated with scale, this is not easy, even for an expert. We advise making the "cold water test" as follows : Fill the boiler nearly full of water and build a little fire to heat the water luke-warm. When this is done, withdraw the fire, fill the boiler to the top of the dome and attach a small hand pump. The steam gage will register the Il8 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUIv THRESHING pressure, which may be anything desired. The chill is taken off the water as the boiler is less liable to be strained when the iron is a little warm. The best way to test it is to go over the boiler with a straight-edge, carefully noting how much the sheets are out of shape. This should be done first with no pressure, then repeating, increasing the pressure with the pump about twenty-five pounds at a time. On a locomotive boiler, the straight-edge should be placed between the stay bolts. The parts exposed to the greatest heat should be examined particularly, as should also the bottom of the shell and along the riveted seams, where it is liable to be corroded. If there be any doubt about any part, or if the straight-edge shows that the sheets spring or bulge with the pressure, the only way to be sure is to drill a small hole and determine the thickness. If found to be safe, the hole may be made tight by tapping and screwing in a copper plug. Another Method of Testing Boiler. A boiler may be tested without using a pump. In this case the boiler is filled with water to the very top of the dome before the fire is built, and the expansion of the water, as it increases in temperature, gives the desired pressure for testing. The boiler may be filled by removing the whistle or the pop-valve and pouring the water through its pipe. The throttle and all of the openings from the boiler must be closed before the fire is built. Straw should be used as fuel, as a fire of it may be quickly checked. When other THE BOILER 119 fuel, such as pine kindling wood is used, very little should be allowed in the fire-box, and the fire carefully watched. Enough dirt, sand or ashes should be at hand to check the fire at any instant. The pressure must be closely watched, and if it shows a tendency to rise too rapidly, or go too high, the fire must be covered. The pop-valve will open at the point at which it is set, in the same way as for steam pressure. Amount of Pressure. It is not advisable to test an old boiler which was designed to carry one hundred and thirty pounds or less at a greater pressure than one hun- dred and fifty pounds, as higher pressures are apt to strain and weaken the boiler. When a boiler has been tested at one hundred and fifty pounds cold water pressure, it may be used at a working pressure of one hundred and twenty-five pounds. It has been common to make the pressure for the hydraulic test greater than the desired working pressure by fifty per cent., but many engineers now believe that this strains a boiler unnecessarily and consequently such high test pressures are not recom- mended except where required by law. Sweating. Inexperienced operators in starting a fire in a new boiler are sometimes deceived by the appearance of moisture on the tube-sheets which they take to be leak- age. However, this is nothing but the moisture in the gases passing through the tubes collecting on the cold 120 SCIENCK 01^ SUCCESSFUIv THRESHING surface of the tube-sheets. This has been incorrectly called ''sweating," but is really condensation. Temperature of Water and Steam in a Boiler. Al- though water boils in an open vessel at 212 degrees Fah- renheit, if it be confined, a pressure will be developed, which will prevent it from boihng until a higher tempera- ture is reached. A certain relation exists between the pressure and temperature of the steam in a boiler and for any given pressure there is a corresponding temperature. This holds true only for what is called "saturated steam," that is, steam that is not heated after it is taken away from the water where it was generated. Water in a boiler and under the same pressure as the steam has practically the same temperature as the steam. TEMPERATURES CORRESPONDING TO STEAM PRESSURES. lbs. — 212.0 degrees R 25 lbs. r= 266.6 degrees F. 50 lbs. r= 297.5 degrees F. 75 lbs. = 319.8 degrees F. 100 lbs. = 337.6 degrees F. 125 lbs. = 352.6 degrees F. 150 lbs. = 365.6 degrees F. 175 lbs. = 377.2 degrees F. 200 lbs. = 887.6 degrees F. CHAPTER IX THE TRACTION GEARING 'HEN the traction gearing is used only in mov- ing the engine from place to place, very little attention need be given to it. When, however, the engine is used for plowing or for hauling freight, the gearing must receive careful attention in order to prevent the possibility of expensive repairs. The parts which require special attention on engines used for hauling heavy loads are the lower cannon bearing and the bearing for the intermediate gear. The pinions on the counter-shaft should mesh properly with the gears on the traction wheels. These may be set deeper into mesh on "Case" engines by adjusting the turn-buckles in the links, called '^distance links," which connect the upper and lower can- non bearings. The springs which cari-y the weight of the boiler should not have too much leeway if the engine be used for heavy hauling. Oiling the Cannon Bearings. A quantity of oil may be poured into the upper and lower cannon bearings, which will insure the lubrication of the axle and counter-shaft, since it can only work out at the ends. The oil boxes should be partly filled with wool or waste, and all other 121 122 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSI^UI. THRESHING openings stopped by carefully fitted pieces of wood, in order to prevent sand and other gritty substances from en- tering the cannon bearings. Lubricating the Gearing. The gearing of a traction- engine should be kept well lubricated. It is true that FLY WHEEL FIG. Z7' CUT SHOWING CANNON BEARINGS AND GEARING. many men argue that grease collects and holds sand which will cause cutting of gears. To prove the fallacy of this THE TRACTION GEARING 123 belief, however, it is only necessary to observe the gearing on engines which have been run by men of this opinion. In many cases, the gearing v^ill be found more badly v^orn than its use would warrant. Engines for use in plowing or road work are sometimes provided with means for keep- ing a continuous flow of oil to the gears all the time the en- gine is moving. This is an excellent way to lubricate them and it greatly prolongs their wear. The Friction Clutch. The friction clutch is used to connect the engine to the traction gearing and wheels. By means of it, the engine may be made to travel as slowly as desired, while the engine proper Is running at full speed. A general view of the Case clutch is shown in Fig. 38, with the names of the various parts thereon. An en- larged view of the hub portion is shown in Fig. 39. When the clutch is in partial engage- ment, the shoes (Fig. 38) press lightly against the rim of the fly-v/heel, transmitting only part of its motion to the gearing. But when in FIG. 38. FRICTION CLUTCH. 124 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUI. THRESHING full engagement, the shoes press so hard against the rim of the fly-wheel that they prevent slipping, thus locking the fly-wheel and pinion together. The two shoes are hinged to the ends of the arm. This arm has a long sleeve, which is loose upon the shaft, but at the end of which the pinion is firmly keyed. The sliding ring (Fig. 39), is loose upon the sleeve, and when moved toward the fly- wheel, straightens the toggle levers, thus pressing the shoes against the rim of the fly-wheel. The sliding ring is moved by means of the trunnion ring which r e - mains stationary, but allows the slid- ing ring to revolve within it. The trunnion ring is held to the sliding ring by means of the clamp ring. Adjusting the Clutch. The wear on the shoes is taken up by means of the turn-buckles in the toggle levers. They should be so adjusted that the toggle levers will just pass the straight line when the clutch is in engagement, thus relieving the trunnion ring of all side friction; they should also be so adjusted as to produce equal tension on SLIDING RING' TRUNION RING CLAMP RING FIG. 39. SECTION OF HUB PORTION OF CLUTCH. THE TRACTION GEARING 125 both shoes, or undue friction will be produced on the slid- ing ring making the lever hard to handle. A good way to adjust the turn-buckles is to apply a large wrench to them, when the clutch is in engagement, and lengthen the toggle levers until the shoes are pressed hard against the rim. In this manner, the shoes can be given equal and sufficient pressure and when the clutch is drawn out of engagement, the shoes will clear the rim. Of course, the jam-nuts must be loosened before adjusting, and tightened after- wards. The inside end of the fly-wheel hub should touch the hub of the clutch arm, or the sliding ring cannot carry the toggle levers beyond the straight line. This happens when the fly-wheel has become loosened and worked to- wards the end of the shaft. The wooden shoes are easily replaced when worn out. Examine the clutch and see that it is properly adjusted before starting up or down a very steep hill. If it be in good order, it will not fail to do its work. Oiling the Clutch. When the engine is traveling, the entire clutch moves together, with the exception of the trunnion-ring. This, then, should be oiled when the en- gine is on the road. When threshing, the clutch remains stationary, while the shaft revolves within it. The long sleeve should then be oiled and also the end of the fly- wheel hub where it comes in contact with the end of the sleeve. There are eight or nine oil-holes in the sleeve, three of which are drilled between the teeth of the pinion. There is also an oil-hole in the upper trunnion of the trun- 126 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUI. THRESHING nion-ring. The clutch sleeve is most liable to wear in plowing or hauling where the clutch is frequently used. In this class of work, the sleeve of the clutch-arm must be kept well lubricated. The Differential Gear. In order to have both traction wheels pull, when the engine is traveling either forward or backward, and at the same time allow one wheel to travel further than the other in turning corners, the differential gear is necessary. It transmits the power from the inter- mediate gear to the two counter-shaft pinions, which mesh with the spur gears on the traction wheels. The four bevel pinions are carried by the center casting, and mesh with two bevel gears, one of which is cast in one piece with the right-hand counter-shaft pinion (which is loose upon the shaft), and the other of which is keyed to the counter- shaft and dfives the left-hand counter-shaft pinion (which is also keyed to the shaft). It will be seen that when the engine travels straight ahead, both counter-shaft pinions turn with the shaft and the whole differential revolves as one piece. In turning corners, however, the bevel pinions revolve, permitting one of the counter-shaft pinions to re- volve faster than the other, thus allowing the traction wheels to accommodate themselves to the curve of the road. The differential spur wheel is a separate piece from the center casting, the power being transmitted from the rim to the center casting through coil springs, which relieve the gearing of the shocks of starting and stopping the en- gine. THE TRACTION GEARING 127 Locking the Differential. When both traction wheels have resistance, they pull equally, but if the engine be "jacked up" until one of them is off the ground and free to turn, then when the engine is started, the differential gear will allow the free traction wheel to revolve at twice its SPUR GEAR SPRINGS -OIL CENTER WHEEL ■^OIL GRCOV^ COUNTERSHAFT ! ; FIG. 40. THE DIFFERENTIAL GEAR^ SHOWING SPRINGS. usual speed, w^hile the traction wheel on the ground will scarcely pull at all. Revolving at twice its usual speed means that the free traction wheel makes, for example, one revolution to nine of the fly-wheel, instead of, to the usual eighteen. Often, when one wheel is in a slippery place, it will spin around, while the other on solid ground remains still without pulling at all. To provide for such 128 SCIENCE O^ SUCCESSFUI. THRESHING emergencies, the hub of the left traction wheel is made so that a pin can be inserted and both wheels locked to the axle. This, of course, makes both traction wheels revolve together, and prevents the differential gear from working. The engine must be steered straight when the lock-pin is used, or broken gearing is liable to result. Oiling the Differential. There are several moving parts within the differential gear which should be oiled occasionally. The bevel-pinions revolve about their shafts. An oil-hole is drilled through the center of each of these shafts to provide for oiling them, as shown in Fig. 40. The center wheel turns on the hub of the left-hand or inside bevel-gear, when the differential-gear works, and accordingly it should be oiled occasionally through the hole provided for this purpose in the bevel-gear hub, as shown in Fig. 40, which applies to all except the no horse-power engine. The oil passes into a chamber, then along the groove and out through the radial holes to the journal. The oil also works farther along the groove and oils right- hand countershaft pinion where it turns on the shaft. On the no horse-power engine, there is no oil groove in the shaft. The oil holes in the hub of the inside bevel gear carry the oil direct to the bearing of the center wheel, and the right-hand countershaft pinion is provided with holes in its hub for oiling the shaft. The hub of the left-hand traction wheel turns upon the axle in turning comers, and therefore should be oiled occasionally. This is done by removing the cap-screws in the hub of the traction wheel. CHAPTER X WATER-TANKS iHE threshing outfit, to be complete, must be pro- vided with first-class water-tanks. A leaky tank is very apt to cause delay. One that is liable to break down may entirely cut off the water supply for a time. The axles are wet much of the time and therefore, rot very fast and are apt to break without warning. Wait- ing for water for any cause should not be tolerated by the man in charge of a threshing outfit, and one whose duty it is to haul water should never allow the rig to be idle for lack of it. In localities where the farms are small and water may be had near at hand, one mounted tank does very well, as the platform tank (with which an engine is usually equipped), will furnish the water while the mount- ed tank is being refilled. In localities where the water must sometimes be hauled a mile or more, two mounted tanks are generally used, or if only one be used, three or four barrels should be provided to use in addition to the platform tank. Engine Tenders. Engine tenders are convenient, es- pecially where most of the threshing is done around barns and it is necessary to back the engine more or less. The 9 129 130 SCIENCE O? SUCCESSFUL THRESHING engine tender does what its name implies, that is, it keeps a good supply of coal and water near at hand. The Contractor's Fuel-Bunkers and Tanks are built for the purpose of serving as a tender, but they are mounted and carried on the engine itself instead of on separate trucks. They are attached to the axle cannon-bearing in the rear of the engine, in the same way as the common platform and tank, which they displace. This way of car- rying the fuel and water supply is more convenient than with a separate tender; besides, the weight being sup- ported on the rear axle, the engine has more tractive power for plow^ing or hauling. The contractor's fuel bunkers are detachable from the tank and can be removed when firing with straw. The contractor's fuel bunkers and tank may be attached, in the field, to any Case side-crank engine from 30 to 75 H. P. inclusive. They are always furnished on the no H. P. size. Tank Pumps. At least one tank with each outfit should have a tank pump, with a capacity of about two bar- rels a minute. The pump is of use not only in filling the tank, but also in rapidly transferring water from it to the platform tank, engine tender, or barrels. When equipped with a sprinkling hose, it is also useful in washing out the boiler. CHAPTER XI HORSE-POWERS I HE horse-power, which, at one time, was the prin- cipal means of driving threshing-machines, is still used to a considerable extent for this purpose. With a sufficient number of good, strong horses, this means of supplying the motive power for threshing is very satis- factory, and, owing to the fact that the investment involved in a horse-power outfit is considerably less than is required for a steam rig, it is probable that the horse-power will continue its usefulness in this industry for many years to come. The present style of metal-frame power is superior to the wood-frame because it is not subject to atmospheric conditions, which continually cause the swelling and shrink- ing of wood, disturbing the gearing. Starting a New Horse-Power. The first thing to do in preparing a new power for work is to carefully clean the cinders from the oil-boxes. Next, oil each of the bear- ings and thoroughly grease all the gearing, turning the power by hand until the entire wearing surface is well lub- ricated. A new power should be run at least half an hour before being coupled to the separator or other machine to be run. If the horses be nervous, because unused to the 131 132 SCIENCE O^ SUCCESSFUL THRESHING work, put a man with each team until they are accustomed to the noise and to traveUng in a circle. Setting a Horse-Power. A horse-power, to work properly, must be securely held in position. To do this, it is necessary to use at least four stakes, each of which should be about three feet long. The power should be set in alignment with the separator so that the tumbling-rods are as straight as possible. As it is almost impossible to secure the power so that it will not shift slightly when started, it is best to make allowance for this when setting. The line of rods cannot be straight horizontally, as one end must attach to the spur-pinion shaft of the power and the other to the bevel-gear shaft of the separator, while the second rod from the power must lie near the ground in or- der to allow the horses to walk over it. The angles in the line of rods necessary to meet these conditions are taken care of by the knuckles connecting them, but the angles should be carefully divided so that they are as slight as possible at each knuckle. When run at great angles, knuckles consume considerable power and cause excessive and unnecessary work on the part of the horses. Lubrication of the Horse-Power. There are two bull- pinion boxes (an upper and lower), and two center-boxes at each end, making eight boxes in all, to be oiled on the bull-pinion shafts. There are also two spur-pinion shaft boxes and the journals of the traverse-rollers to be oiled. All the gearing and the bottom and the top of the bull- HORSE-POWERS 133 wheel rim should be coated with good axle grease. When the grease becomes hard and caked with dirt, it should be cleaned off and fresh grease applied. Connecting the Equalisers. The following cut shows a top view of a fourteen-horse power with "sweeps," braces FIG. 41. TOP VIEW OF POWER WITH SWEEPS ATTACHED. and equalizer-rods attached. In hooking the equalizer- rods, always hook the ends of two rods in the end ring of 134 SCIE^NCE 01^ SUCCESSFUL THRESHING the chains. The ring near the center of each chain is merely a stop and the rods should never be hooked into it. Speed of the Tumbling-Rods. The use of the sixteen- cog pinion, which gives one hundred and one revolutions of the tumbling- rods to one round of the horses, is recom- mended, and will ordinarily run the cylinder of a ''Case" separator at the proper speed. The following table gives a complete list of spur-pinions for "Case" horse-powers, any of which may be obtained if desired. c 41 O o o 3 h-^^ S.'E^ a"^^ 5!S Iz; pq ;5 «£^ w£?a w£?^ wp. 4i^W 4 W 4^W 9 W 7 W 4^W 8 W 212W A212W 213W A9W A7W A8W inzi MJ^ C ba^C .a •S|E J3 H i^ E « ?i iSa a ■£- 2 tn i ■« UJ c Ui <4-l "^ J3 °T> "Omh ■tJij-i «i g w- ^ 4W or 81 ^W and 81 ^W, have flanges which hook over the outside of the main frame, thus preventing them from crowding toward the center. When these boxes have been removed, care must be taken in replacing them to insure these flanges hooking over the outside of the frame, for if they be placed too far toward the center of the power, these flanges may come in contact with the box seat and prevent the bull-pinions from meshing as deeply as they should with the bull-wheel. To prevent their getting loose, the large set-screws are locked by means of small set-screws, ^^^hich bear against their threads. Removing the Shafts. To take out the spur-wheel shaft, remove the four bolts that secure the cross-pieces to the main frame, and drop them, together with the spur- pinion frame, to the ground. Next remove the four bolts securing the bull-pinion boxes and those securing the center boxes, after which the spur-wheel shaft may be taken out without disturbing the gears keyed to it. The short bull- pinion shafts have trunnion-boxes at their inner ends. 138 SCIENCE O^ SUCCESSI^UIv THRESHING which permit movement sufficient to allow the shaits to be removed. It is necessary to remove the wood piece with slide attached, which is on the rear axle. Reversing the Gearing. The bull-wheel may be turned over, the short shafts interchanged and the spur- wheel shaft reversed (end for end), so that the teeth of all the gearing may be worn on both their faces. Reverse Motion of Tumbling-Rods. The direction in which the tumbling-rods revolve may be reversed so that they turn in the same direction as that in which the horses walk, instead of turning, as usual, in the opposite direction. When reverse motion is necessary for driving machinery other than *'Case" separators, the following extra pieces will be needed : one steady-bearing, 104W ; one short tumb- ling-rod, oi25\V; and one extra knuckle. To attach the parts, proceed as follows: First, bore a one and one-half inch hole in rear axle, two and three-eighths inches from its top and five and one-half inches from the center of the bolt holding the casting, 184W or 222 W. Then bolt steady- bearing, 104W, on the inside of the axle with seven-six- teenths by four and three- fourths inch bolts. Next put the knuckle on the spur-pinion shaft and connect it with the short rod, 0125W, which passes through the casting, 104W, and through the hole in the axle. Attaching Truck-Brake to Iron-Frame Horse-Power. Put the brake pipe under the main frame with casting 210W, face down and on the right-hand side. The pipe HORSE-POWERS 139 is located between the two five-eighths inch hooks and rear wheel, the short ends of the hooks coming outside of the iron frame. In order to prevent the nuts from working loose, the ends of the hooks may be riveted. When this is done, casting 23 iW may be bolted on top of the flange of the main frame. A hole to receive it will be found on the front end of the power frame. Next insert the iron lever into its socket, 210W, and tighten the set-screws, which should not be tightened too much, or they will cause unnecessary strain on casting 210W. Put the ratchet in casting 232W with the hole down and with the notches turned towards the front. Then, put it in the notch that holds the brake from the wheels, and bolt it to the brake lever below. Place the brake-block casting, 208W, on the right end of the pipe and 209W on the left ; bring the blocks against the wheels and turn the set-screws up tight ; then loosen and remove, and with a file or cold chisel, flatten a place on the pipe for the set-screws. This will prevent the pipe from turning in these castings. The pipe is coun- tersunk for the set-screws in 210W, these set-screws being tightened at the factory. The key with straps should be nailed to the driver's platform. This is used to prevent the brake from dropping onto the wheels when not wanted. The brake is applied by the foot. Do not press the ratchet down harder than necessary. The Spur-Wheel and Bull-Pinion Shafts. The key- seats of these shafts are cut in line with each other and I40 SCIENCE 01^ SUCCESSFUIv THRESHING those in the bull-pinions and inside-pinions are cut with reference to one of their teeth so that when the pinions are keyed to the shaft, their teeth will be in line. It will be seen that if the shaft has been twisted so that the teeth of the pinions are even slightly out of line, the power cannot be made to run properly. A new spur-wheel shaft is the only remedy for such a condition. Work Done by Horses. The sweeps of the twelve- horse-power and smaller sizes are twelve feet and seven inches long, and their ends move in a circle the circumfer- ence of which is seventy-nine feet. The sweeps of the fourteen-horse power are fourteen feet long, and their ends move in a circle, the circumference of which is eighty-nine feet. Horses ordinarily travel around the seventy-nine foot circle two and one-half times a minute, and around the eighty-nine foot circle two and one-fourth times a minute, in either case covering about twO' and one-fourth miles per hour. The term "horse-power" (the standard measure of power) is defined as the power necessary to raise 33,000 pounds one foot per minute. A horse walks two hundred feet per minute in traveling around the eighty-nine foot circle two and one-quarter times per minute so that to do work equal to one "horse-power" it is necessary for it to pull only one hundred and sixty-five pounds, which is the quotient of 33,000 divided by 200. This quotient does not allow for the friction of the machine. As the efficiency HORSE-POWERS 141 of the horse-power is about 80 per cent., each horse will pull about 200 pounds on the whiffletree. The Number of Horses. When desired for light work, the regular twelve-horse power with six sweeps may be used with only six horses by tying up equalizers on the empty sweeps and attaching teams to alternate sweeps, or by hitching a single horse to each sweep. In the same manner any of the other sizes of horse-powers may be used with half the usual number of horses. Since different numbers of sweeps are used the holes in the bull-wheel are marked with dots so that the brackets and end-supports for the sweeps may be easily placed in their proper positions. One of each of these castings should be first bolted to the holes with three dots near them for this set of holes is used with any number of levers. Bull-wheel 89W has the dots at the side of the holes for twelve horses, inside of the holes for ten horses, and outside of the holes for eight horses. Bull-wheel loW has the dots at the sides of the holes for twelve horses, inside of the holes for ten horses and out- side of the holes for fourteen horses. 142 SCIENCE O^ SUCCESSI^UI. THRESHING PARTS USED ON IRON AND WOOD FRAME POWERS. 8 and 10 Horse Size 4^W 212 W 0122 W 89 W 2 W 90 W 0121 W 3 W 0123 W 81^W Sl^W 220 W 121 W 122 W 227 W 188 W 189 W 190 W 225 W 193 W 218 W 219 W 197 W 199 W 229 W 230 W 204 W 214 W 215 W 216 W 217 W 55 W 56 W 19 W 20 W 48 W 49 W 50 W 52 W 75 W 76^W 78 W 82 W 163 X 12 and 14 Iron or Horse , Size Wood Frames 4>^W Wood 212 w Iron 0122 w Both 10 w Both 15 w Both 16 w Both 0121 w Both 43 w Both 0124 w Both 45 w Both 45>^W Both 182 w Iron 183 w Iron 185 w Iron 187 Vv^ Iron 188 w Iron 189 vv Iron 190 w Iron 191 w Iron 193 w Iron 218 w Iron 219 w Iron 197 w Iron 199 w Iron 202 w Iron 203 w Iron 204 w Iron 214 w Iron 215 w Iron 216 w Iron 217 w Iron 12 w Wood 13 w Wood 19 w Wood 40 w Wood 48 w Wood 49 w Wood 50 w Wood 52 w Wood 75 w Wood 761/^ W Wood 78 w Wood 82 w Wood 163 X Wood NAME OF PART Spur-pinion. Spur-pinion. Spur-pinion shaft. Bull-wheel. Bull-pinion. Inside-pinion. Inside-pinion shaft. Spur-wheel. Spur-wheel shaft. Half bull-pinion box. Other half bull-pinion box. Cast frame for power. Rear-axle bracket, R. H. Rear-axle bracket, L. H. Top cap for bull-pinion box. Top slide holder. Top slide for bull-wheel. Bottom cap for bull-pinion box. Center-box for spur-wheel shaft, R. H. Inside trunnion box for shaft. Front support for spur-gear frame. Rear support for spur-gear frame. Support for short shaft, center-box, L. H. Support for short shaft, center-box, R. H. Support for bull-wheel slide, Rear. Support for bull-wheel slide, Front. Slide under bull-wheel. Spur-gear frame. Cap for spur-gear frame. Brake-wheel. Collar on spur-pinion shaft. Back support. Front support. Support for center-box. Center-box for spur-wheel shaft. Cap for spur-gear frame. Back stirrup for spur-gear frame. Front stirrup for spur-gear frame. Spur-gear frame. Arch frame. Inside-box, inside-pinion shaft. Cap to hold bull-pinion box. Slide under bull-wheel. Brake-wheel. Page. Chapter I Starting- and Setting- a Separator 147 ir The Cylinder, Concaves and Beater 153 III The Straw-Rack and Conveyor 167 IV The Cleaning- Apparatus 169 V Threshing- with a Reg-ularly Equipped Separator .181 VI Threshing- with a Specially Equipped Separator. .191 Vir The Pulleys and Belting- of a Separator 207 VIII Lubrication and Care of the Separator 219 IX Feeding- the Separator 227 X The Straw Stackers 233 XI The Grain Handlers 241 10 CHAPTER I STARTING AND SETTING A SEPARATOR OME separators are shipped from the factory "set- up" with pulleys and all parts put on and all attach- ments in place. Others, for compactness, are shipped as they are stored, with tailings-elevator removed and tied on the deck, pulleys and other parts packed inside the machine, and the attachments "knock-down" — that is, taken apart and small parts boxed. For ocean shipment, separators are taken apart so that all parts may be boxed. Setting Up. In setting up a dismantled separator, care should be taken to see that all nuts and keys are properly tightened. The pulleys must be set in line to insure the belts running properly. The cuts shov/ing belting ar- rangement will aid in placing the pulleys in their proper position. If the box of parts contains a list of its contents, the names and numbers will also help in determining the position of each. The crank-shaft which drives the straw- rack and conveyor should be put in with the long end to the right (when looking at the machine from the front). Starting a New Separator. A new machine should be set up and run an hour or so, before attempting to thresh any grain. Before putting on the belts, look into the ma- 147 148 SCIENCE 01^ SUCCESSi^UIv THRESHING chine on the straw-rack, conveyor and fan, then turn each shaft by hand a few revolutions to make sure there is noth- ing loose or misplaced. Be sure that the two bolts, one on each side, which fasten the conveyor-extension to the conveyor side-rails are perfectly tight ; otherwise, this ex- tension will immediately begin to hammer itself and other parts to pieces. After the machine has been run awhile, take time tO' go over the bolts in the straw-rack, especially those holding the straw-rack extension to the straw-rack proper. Any attention paid to keeping bolts tight in vi- brating parts is time well spent. Oiling. The oil boxes should be carefully cleaned of cinders and dirt that may have collected during shipment, and the paint removed from the oil holes. Screw down the plugs of the grease cups on beater, fan and crank boxes to the end of the threads, using a wrench, if necessary, to clean off the paint. Fill the grease cups on beater, fan and crank boxes with hard oil and fill oil cups on cylinder boxes with a good lubricating oil. It is best to first place a small quantity of wool or cotton waste in the bottom of each oil-cup. Connect the separator with engine or other power, running only the cylinder for a time, and feeling of the boxes to ascertain whether they show any tendency to heat. While the cylinder is running, oil both ends of the crank pitmans, and the four bearings of the rock shafts. Take off the tightener pulley from its spindle, clean the spindle and its inside oil-chamber and holes, and oil the STARTING AND SETTING A SEPARATOR I49 spindle before replacing it. Put on the belt driving beater and crank (see Fig. 46), which will put the beater, straw rack and conveyor in motion. Next oil the shoe-pitman eccentrics and the bearings of the shoe shaft if there be one. This shaft is driven from the fan on right side of machine (see Fig. 45). The fan belt, which runs over crank belt, but not under tightener (see Fig. 46), and the shoe belt may be now run on. Oil the moving parts as they run, occasionally screwing down the grease plugs on crank- and fan-shaft boxes. The chain of the tailings elevator should be adjusted so that it has slack enough to turn freely, but not enough to allow it to kink or unhook. After oiling the upper boxes and both bearings of the tail- ings auger and the four of the tailings conveyor, run on the elevator belt, which drives from the crank, crossed (see Fig. 45) . Oil the bearings of the grain auger and put on its belt. This belt is used on the right-hand side and crossed for all grain elevators except the No. 4 bagger, v/hich may be used on either side. When this bagger is used on the right-hand side, then the belt must be run straight on the left-hand side. This is also true when the machine has no grain-handler and only the tally-box is used. When all parts of the separator are in motion the bear- ings should be carefully watched to detect any tendency to heat, and this can best be done when the machine is run- ning empty, for the operator can then give it his entire 150 SCIENCE 01^ SUCCESSFUIv THRESHING attention. The machine has been tested and left the fac- tory in good running order, but dirt and grit of shipment by rail is liable to cause trouble and it is best to make sure that all the bearings are oiled. It is of great importance that these bearings be well oiled on the first run, as they are somewhat rough, and consequently require more oil and a longer time for it to spread over the journals. Oiling a shaft as it runs, allows the oil to work in and be distrib- uted over the whole bearing surface. It is well to use a mixture of two parts of machine oil to one of kerosene for the first oiling. This will clean out the bearings and leave them in good condition to receive oil. The machine should be again oiled with undiluted oil before threshing. When the machine has run for an hour or so and everything shown to be in good order, it is ready for threshing. After adjusting the concaves, check board, sieves and blinds, to suit the kind and condition of grain, according to the directions given elsewhere in this book, grain may be run through the machine. Setting the Separator. The separator may do good work if the rear truck wheels be a few inches higher or lower than the front wheels, but it must always be" level cross-ways. Use a spirit level of good length on the rear axle and on the sills. A little practice or calculation will enable one to determine how deep a hole to dig in front of the high wheel in order to bring the machine level when pulled into it. Knowing the axles of the separator to be STARTING AND SE:TTING A SE:pARATOR I5I about twelve feet apart, it is easy to calculate how much the front or rear wheels must be lowered to bring the ma- chine level. For example, if a spirit level two feet in length be used and the axles are twelve feet apart, then one axle must be lowered or raised just six times as much as the end of the level. If, when placed on the sills, the front end of the spirit level requires raising, for example, one- half inch, then the rear wheels must be lowered six times as much, or three inches, to bring the separator level. This method may also be used in determining the amount to lower one rear wheel to bring machine level crossways, which, as already stated, is more important than having it level lengthways. In this case, however, the amount in comparison with the amount shown by the level is different for each size of separator. The hole or holes should be dug before the engine is uncoupled or the team unhitched, so that if not level, machine may be pulled out, the holes changed and the machine backed into them. When the machine is high in front, it can be quickly leveled, after engine or team has been removed, by cramping the front axle, digging in front of one wheel and behind the other, so that wheels will drop into the holes when pole is brought around square. »With geared machines ''bolster- jacks" are used to keep the "side-gear" from twisting front end of machine out of level. The hind axle being level, place the bolster- jacks in position, and screw them up so as to level the front of 152 SCIENCE O^ SUCCESSI^UL THRESHING machine. It is not necessary to have the front axle level, as the bolster- jacks will accommodate themselves to it. Place a block in front of the right-hand rear wheel to prevent the machine from being drawn forward by the belt. This block should be carried with the machine, so as to be handy when needed. When pulling the machine out of holes with a team, starting it on soft ground or on a hill, face or head the team around to one side, and it will move the load with about half the effort necessary to start straight ahead. In cramp- ing the front axle, but one of the hind wheels starts at a time. Setting with Reference to the Wind. The thresher- man cannot always choose the direction in which to set the machine, but when he can, he should select a position in which the wind will be blowing in the same general direc- tion as that in which the straw is moving, and preferably a little ''quartering," as this keeps the men out of the dust more than when set straight with the wind. This posi- tion insures greater safety from fire in case wood or straw is used as fuel. In Case of Fire, the quickest way to move the machine away from the stacks is to pull it out by the belt. Take the blocks away from the wheels, place a man at the end of the pole to steer, and back the engine slowly. If the machine be in holes or soft ground, put men at the wheels to assist in starting. CHAPTER II THE CYLINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER IT is the function of the cyHnder and concaves to loosen the kernels of grain from the straw on which they grew. The ends of the cylinder teeth travel about a mile a minute so that the grain in going through meets the concave teeth with considerable force. The concave teeth engage with the cylinder teeth in such a way that the grain heads cannot pass through without being broken and the kernels knocked out although the straw is in contact with the cylinder but a fraction of a second. If the teeth be in good condition and a sufficient number of rows of concave teeth be used to suit the work, practically all of the grain will be knocked out. Cylinder Teeth. When the cylinder is new or newly refilled, care should be taken to keep the teeth tight until they become fitted to their holes and firmly seated. The cylinder should be gone over two or three times during the first week, and each tooth driven in hard with a heavy hammer and the nuts tightened. Afterwards they should be gone over often enough to be sure that they are tight and will not bother while threshing. A light tap with the hammer on the side of the tooth will produce a sound which will easily reveal whether or not it is tight. At the factory, 153 154 scii:nce of succe:ssfuIv threshing the teeth are driven in and tightened with a long-handled wrench and then driven in and tightened again, but they are liable to get loose the first few days unless special at- tention be paid them. If a tooth be allowed to remain loose for any length of time, the hole will become so mis- shapen that the tooth cannot be kept tight thereafter. The teeth should be kept straight, not only so they will not strike, but also so that they will pass at equal distances from the concave teeth on both sides. Cylinder Speed, It is very important that the cylin- der run at the proper speed. If run too fast, there is dan- ger of cracking the grain, and if run too slowly, it will not thresh clean. Then, too, the work of separation and clean- ing is very much easier if the cylinder runs at the proper speed and is never allowed to get below it. The motion must be uniform if the best results be expected, for every time it is allowed to get much below or above the correct speed, the separator is liable to waste grain. With the regular pulleys, the large 20-bar cylinder of the Case sep- arator should run at 750 revolutions per minute to give the proper speed to the other parts of the machine. The regular speed of the small or 12-bar cylinder is 1075 revo- lutions per minute. In threshing tough rye or oats, the cylinder is subjected to more work, and often runs too slowly if attempt be made to maintain the normal speed, therefore, the cylinder should run faster than usual, say, 800 for the 20-bar and 11 50 for the 12-bar, in order that the other parts of the machine may run fully up to their THE CYIvINDER, CONCAVES AND BEATER 155 usual speed. Some grains and legumes require special cylinder speed for which a change in cylinder pulleys is desirable. These are sriven elsewhere in this book. MAIN CYLINDER PULLEYS. Number. Diameter pace Bore MACHINE 5564T 6 " 9 " l-^'^" 12-Bar Wood, Special. 7()1T lA" 8 " Ws" r2-Bar Special. 501T SA" 8 " l%" r2-Bar Reg. 18" and 24". bOVAT SA" 8 " ni" r2-Bar Wood, Regular. 1867T 8/2" 8 " 17" lis 12-Bar Wood, Special. 861T 83.4" 8 " l/s" r2-Bar Special. 6004T 954" 9 " 15/8" 12-Bar Reg. 28". 5005T m" 9 " l/s" 12-Bar Wood, Special. 5006T 9^" 9 " 2/8" r2-Bar Wood, Special. SOOT 9-/8" 8 " 1/8" 12-Bar Regular. 5051T 1014" 9 " 1/8" 12-Bar Rice. 5052T 10^" 9 " 1/s" 12-Bar Wood, Rice and Shredder. 5053T lOA" 9 " 2As" r2-Bar Wood, Rice and Shredder. 5441T 10 " 9A" 2tV 20-Bar Special. 5367T 11^" 9 A" 2t^" 20-Bar Special. 5368T 12 " 9 A" 2h" 20-Bar Special. 5294T im" 9 " C) 1 If 20-Bar Regular. A5294T U-Vs" 9 A" 7 " 20-Bar Special. 5440T 15/8" 9Va" 2i^" 20-Bar Special. 5369T 16 " 9/" 21^5" 20-Bar Rice. 5372T 26 " 9 " 2i^" 20-Bar Peas and Beans. Ascertaining Cylinder Speed. The best way to as- certain the speed is by means of a revolution counter, but if one be not at hand, the speed may be found by count- ing the number of times the main drive belt goes around in a minute. To do this, multiply the required speed of the cylinder by the circumference of the cylinder pulley in inches and divide by 12 to reduce to feet. Dividing by the length of the belt in feet will give the required number 156 SCIENCE OF SUCCESSFUIv THRESHING of times belt should go around in a minute. For example : If cylinder be a 20-bar, its speed should be 750 and the regular pulley 5294T for this is 13^ inches in diameter or 42 inches in circumference. Multiplying 750 by 42 gives 31,500 inches as the product. Dividing this by 12 to re- duce to feet gives 2625 feet per minute as the required travel of the belt. If this be 120 feet long, dividing by 120 gives 22 (nearly) as the required number of rounds of the belt per minute. With a 150 foot belt, the number of rounds will be nearly 18 or with 160 foot belt 17 (nearly) rounds. In the same manner, the required number of rounds can be figured for any cylinder speed, cylinder pul- ley or length of belt. Cylinder Boxes. The cylinder boxes are the most im- portant bearings on a separator and they must receive a certain amount of attention or there will be trouble. All Case cylinders are fitted with ball and socket self-aligning boxes, which practically eliminate all possibility of their heating from improper alignment. The boxes on 20-bar cylinders are about eight inches long, allowing a good bear- ing surface for these large cylinders and all are fitted with oil cups which hold a sufficient quantity of oil to amply lubricate the bearings. The chapter on "Lubrication and Hot Boxes" should be read with special reference to the cylinder boxes. To Take ''End Play" Out of the Cylinder. Loosen lower half of housing of box by slacking the nuts which THE CYUNDKR, CONCAVES AND BEATER 157 secure it, and slide it against hub of cylinder head. The holes in the ironsides are slotted to allow for this end adjustment and also to permit the moving of the cylinder in case the cylinder teeth do not come exactly between the concave teeth. Do not crowd cylinder box so hard against the cylinder head as to cause danger of heating. It is best to leave about 1-64 of an inch end play. Tracking of Teeth. All regular Case 20-bar cylinders have five teeth which pass in the same space between the concave teeth, during one revolution, *'five teeth tracking" as it is called. The 12-bar cylinders have three teeth tracking. Cracking Grain. The cut on the following page is full size and shows the actual distance between the concave and cylinder teeth of the Case regular cylinder. It is shown to emphasize the importance of having the cylinder properly adjusted endwise and of keeping the teeth straight. Sup- posing all the teeth to be straight and that the cylinder be moved 1-16 of an inch to one end. Then instead of there being 1-8 of an inch space between the cylinder and con- cave teeth on both sides, the cylinder teeth would be 3-16 of an inch from the concave teeth on one side and only 1-16 of an inch from them on the other. This condition of affairs would allow the heads to slip through without being threshed on one side of the teeth and on the other would crack the grain and cut up the straw, thereby con- suming much power, increasing the difficulties of separa- FIG. 44. CUT SHOWING SPACE EETV/EEN TEETH — FULL SIZE. THE CYUNDER:, CONCAVES AND BEATER 159 tion and making the sieves handle a large amount of chaff. This same condition exists when all of the teeth are more or less bent. The cylinder may be moved endwise, as al- ready explained, to give the proper spaces between the teeth, but the teeth must be kept straight. Too high speed or too many concave teeth m.ay cause cracking. Special Cylinders. To do good work in rice a special cylinder and concave are required with a wider spacing of the teeth than the regular ones. This gives more clear- ance between the cylinder and concave teeth and, together with a reduced speed, prevents the cylinder from cracking the rice. A special cylinder and concaves are also made for threshing peas, beans and peanuts. Either of these special cylinders may be put in any Case separator if the concaves and concave circles be changed also. Further information regarding threshing rice, peas, beans, peanuts, etc., is given elsewhere in this book. Balancing Cylinders. On account of the high speed at which cylinders run, they must be accurately balanced or they will not run smoothly. It is essential in balancing a cylinder that the weights used for this purpose be placed where the deficiency of weight exists. The shop practice is to rest the journals of a cylinder on level v/ays and put v/eights under center bands until the cylinder will stand at any point on the ways. The cylinder is then put in a frame having narrow, loosely fitting wooden boxes and run at a high speed. The parts of the journals extending beyond l6o science: 01^ SUCCESSI'UIv THRESHING the boxes are marked as it runs. These marks show the initiated at which end and at what point to drive the weights used in the final balancing. A cylinder may be balanced, though not as perfectly as is done at the factory, by resting it on ways made by placing two carpenter's squares on wooden horses. The squares should have blocks nailed on each side to keep them on edge, and should be carefully leveled both ways. Place the cylinder near the center of the ways and roll it gently. Mark with a piece of chalk the bar that is uppermost when it comes to rest. Repeat, and if cylinder stops in the same position three times in succession, drive a wedge under center band at the chalk mark. Rub off the marks and repeat until the cylinder comes to rest at any point. Care should be taken not to mar the journals in placing them on the ways. The cylinder may be out of balance by lack of the full number of teeth. The Concaves. All that has been said about keeping the cylinder teeth tight applies also to the concave teeth. They should be driven in and tightened as often as neces- sary, until they are firmly seated. In driving them in, it is necessary, however, to use some judgment, as the con- caves are of cast iron and are liable to split if the teeth are driven in too hard. Setting the Concaves. The concaves should be ad- justed to suit the kind and condition of grain. Four rows of teeth are usually required for wheat and barley, but for THE CYIylNDER^ CONCAVES AND BEATER l6l damp grain six rows will be necessary. Rye can usually be threshed with two rows, but the cylinder speed should be higher than for wheat. Oats when dry can generally be threshed with two rows of teeth, but flax and timothy will require six rows. Where four are used, they are most effective if one concave be placed clear back and one in front with a blank in the center. In hand feeding, if the straw be dry and brittle, the cylinder can be given more "draw" by placing a blank in front. Always use as few teeth, and leave them as low as is possible and thresh clean. When too many teeth are used, or when they are left higher than is necessary, the straw will be cut up, the grain may be cracked and, besides using more power, the separation is made much more difficult, and the sieves are obliged to handle an unnecessarily large amount of chopped straw. It is better to use two rows set clear up than four rows left low. Sometimes a row of teeth is taken out of a concave, making it possible to use one, three or five rows. Special Concaves. Some grains, as for example, Tur- key wheat, are extremely difficult to thresh from the head, and if it be found that the regular six rows will not thresh clean, a three-row concave, filled with corrugated teeth, should be procured. This, with two regular concaves, will give seven rows of teeth. Should it be necessary, two, or even three, three-row concaves of corrugated teeth may be used. The three-row concaves of corrugated teeth are usually used for threshing alfalfa, but for clover, the u l62 SCIENCE 01^ SUCCESSFUI. THRESHING Special clover concaves are necessary. Information con- cerning them is given elsewhere in this book. Adjustment of Concaves. In the left side of the "iron- sides," or cylinder side castings, of the wood 12-bar sep- arator, there are screws, which press against the concave circle and take up the end play of the concaves. The steel and 20-bar wood machines have screws in both ironsides. When it is desired to change the concaves, raise them up and drop them down a few times to jar out the dust and dirt which has become lodged between concave circles and ironsides, wedging them tight. With concaves in their lowest position, place a stick of wood, the tooth straight- ener, or anything else that may be handy, between concave and cylinder teeth and raise the concaves so that the teeth cannot pass. Then roll the cylinder backward, striking the concaves several times with the momentum of the cyl- inder if necessary, until they are jarred loose and come up with the cylinder, as it is rolled backward by hand. The screws mentioned above may be loosened if necessary, but if they be, it should be done on one side only so as not to disturb the adjustment. Caution Concerning the Cylinder. When the separa- tor is belted to an engine, one should make sure that the engineer has closed the throttle, opened the cylinder cocks, and (if the engine be a traction) that the reverse-lever is in the center notch before changing concaves, fixing teeth or otherwise handling the separator cylinder. TH^ CYI^INDERj CONCAVES AND BEATER 163 The Beater. In threshing very heavy, tough grain, if the straw be incHned to wrap the beater or if it tends to follow the cylinder around too far, the beater may be raised by taking out the blocks from between the beater boxes and the girt to which they are fastened on wood sep- arators or by moving the girts to the upper holes on steel machines. There is also provision in the girts for moving the beater back to give more room between beater and cross-piece, but it is very seldom necessary to move it. The speed of the beater is four hundred revolutions per minute and as its bearings are provided with hard-oil cups, a little attention will keep them in good running order. The Grates. A large percentage of the grain is sep- arated from the straw by the grates through which it is thrown with all the force acquired from the cylinder. The grate under the beater is adjustable and should usually be kept as high as possible for the separation is better when it is high. It should never be lowered unless absolutely necessary. The Check Board should usually be kept quite low to prevent the grain from being thrown to the rear of the ma- chine on top of the straw, where it might be carried out of the machine without being separated. In damp grain and especially damp rye or oats the check board should be raised to allow the straw to pass freely through the ma- chine, for if left down, it will retard the straw too much, and may cause the cylinder to wind. 3 TJ U U, Ut (K a» oj ^ o o o c3 d cj w . 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Columbia. . 47 40 48 48 48 60 48 32 48 48 48 48 -^8 48 48 -^8 48 48 '48' 48 48 48 46 47 48 48 48 48 48 48 63 60 60 60 60 60 60 Crporoia 60 Illinois. 60 60 60 60 60 52 50 52 50 52 56 45 60 Indiana 60 Iowa 56 48 60 Kansas 60 Kentucky T oiiisiana 60 56 60 60 TVTainp 64 "ei" 48 "go 60 60 62 'eo' "eo' 'eo' 64 60 60 48 48 48 60 Manitoba Maryland 60 56 34 60 60 60 Michigan Minnesota Missouri N^ebra^ka 48 42 52 52 48 50 60 60 60 60 60 64 56 '56* '48' 50 60 60 60 60 XTf^w Vnrlr 60 New Jersey New Hampshire North Carolina 60 60 50 42 50 42 42 48 52 56 48 48 52 48 64 60 60 60 60 62 60 60 '64' 60 60 60 North Dakota. . . OViio 56 60 60 Oklahoma Oregon Pennsylvania. . . . South Dakota. . . Smith r^nrnlinp 56 60 60 60 56 50 60 60 Vermont Virginia West Virginia. . 60 60 60 60 60 CHAPTER XI THE GRAIN HANDLERS THE devices used to take the grain from the grain auger and deliver it into sacks or into wagons, as the case may be, are called "grain handlers." These are made in several styles, some of which, in addi- tion to elevating the grain, weigh it and automatically record the number of bushels threshed. The weight of a given quantity of grain varies accord- ing to the kind and quality. Although almost universally sold by the bushel, the number of bushels is determined by weight so that the grain is actually sold by the pound. For example, if the price of wheat be one dollar per bushel, one dollar will purchase sixty pounds of wheat. Sixty pounds of heavy wheat will not fill a bushel measure, but this weight of light wheat will more than fill the measure. In the days when there were no grain handlers, and the grain from the separator was delivered into half- bushel or bushel measures, it was usually customary to give "big measure." By this method, were a farmer to sell all of his grain, he would receive pay for a greater number of bushels than he paid the thresherman for thresh- ing it. This custom of giving "big measure" in threshing, 16 241 242 SCIENCE 01^ SUCCESSI^UI, THRESHING undoubtedly grew out of the fact that it was necessary to heap the measure in order to make the light grain ''hold out." Since the measuring was done by someone who looked out for the interests of the farmer rather than those of the thresherman, the measures were usually heaped with all that they would hold, and in some cases, even tamped in order to make them hold more. This, of course, was unfair to the thresherman. The thresher- man should insist on pay for every bushel by weight, as he would do, were he selling the grain. When engaging the threshing, he should tell the farmer of his intention to do this, and then adjust the price accordingly. Since the weighing attachments accurately weigh and auto- matically record the number of bushels threshed, all fair- minded men must admit that the use of one insures a record of the amount threshed that is correct and fair to both thresherman and farmer. The prejudice against weighers that formerly existed, because of the custom of giving "big measure," has gradually disappeared until they have come into almost universal use. Their accuracy was at first often doubted, but in many cases the weigher's record of a certain amount of grain has been compared with the weight of the same grain on standard scales and found to correspond very closely. The No. I Weigher consists of an elevator permanently attached to the left side of the separator, the weighing apparatus, and a conveyor across the deck of the separa- TH^ grain HANDI.ERS 243 tor. The cross-conveyor is of sufficient height to dehver the grain into a wagon box on either side of the machine. The purchaser of a No. i weigher is given the choice of two plain spouts for delivering the grain in bulk into wagon boxes, or of the bagging attach- ment for deliv- ering the grain into sacks. (This bagging attachment has twin-spouts t o allow putting on the empty sack before removing the full one. ) The No. I weigher requires no folding for moving on the road, and is no higher than other parts of the separator. For these reasons it is largely used in localities in which the thresh- ing is done principally in and around barns. It is one of the most popular of the grain handlers. When "skittish" horses are used on the grain wagons, it is a wise precaution to place a fence post or log on the FIG. 59. HEAD OF CASE WEIGHER. 244 SCIENCE 01^ SUCCESSFUL. THRESHING ground so that in backing, the rear wheels of the wagon will come against the log before striking and damaging the machine. The No. 2 Weigher is also called the ^'Dakota style weigher." The elevator is so high that the grain is suffi- ciently elevated to be delivered by the long spout on either side of the machine. In this way the cross conveyor is dispensed with. As the spout is long, it will hold con- siderable grain so that the exchange of sacks may be made in fast threshing, without danger of choking the elevator by obstructing its delivery. The grain may be delivered in bulk into wagons driven along side the separator as the end of the spout is a sufficient distance from the sep- arator to make it unnecessary to back the wagon up to the machine. Where grain is to be sacked, an empty sta- tionary wagon may be used to sack in, thus avoiding the necessity of lifting the sacks of grain into the wagon which hauls them away. The long spout is provided with hooks to hold the sacks. The No. 2 weigher is used very gen- erally in the localities where the threshing is done in the open field. It is the only suitable grain-handler for use in connection with portable-bins, such as are used in the Northwest. The spout is long enough to deliver the grain into these bins and the weighing apparatus automatically records the number of bushels. The No. 3 Weighing-Bagger. This attachment is in- tended for use in putting the grain into sacks on the The: grain handi^ers 245 ground and it can be used only on the left-hand side of the separator. It has the same weighing mechanism as the No. I and No. 2 weighers. The No. 4 Bagger. This grain-handler does not weigh the threshed grain, but is used simply to elevate it to a sufficient height to run into sacks. It is often desirable to change the bagger from one side to the other on account of the wind or for other reasons. In doing this, it is necessary to change the drive to the other side as the belt driving must always be on the side opposite the elevator. The direction in which the auger runs must also be re- versed and this is accomplished by running the drive-belt crossed, when the elevator is on the left-hand side of the separator, and straight when on the right-hand side. The No. 5 Loader. This attachment serves the same general purpose as the No. 2 weigher, except that it does not weigh the grain. The No. 6 Loader is similar to the No. i weigher, but has no weighing mechanism. For those who desire to sack on the ground it may be used in place of the No. 4. The delivery of the grain may be changed from one side of the separator to the other by simply throwing a lever. It may be used to run the grain into a wagon box in bulk or into sacks in wagons as desired, as was explained for the No. I weigher. Note suggestion under No. i weigher concerning skittish horses. Attaching Grain-Handlers. All of the "Case" grain- 246 SCIENCE OF^ SUCCESSI^UIv THRESHING handlers require a left-hand grain auger. When it is desired to attach one of these elevators to separators built previous to the year 1899, which were fitted with the right- hand grain augers, it is necessary to replace the old auger by a left-hand one, or the attachment will not work. What to do zuhen Weigher Pails to Dump. It is seldom that the weighing mechanism fails to work prop- erly, but it may do so from several causes. Some of the parts may be sprung out of shape from careless handling, causing them to bind or work hard. In case the weighing hopper does not dump each time it is filled with the amount of grain the weight is set for, first see that the hopper moves freely up and down. Malleable Trip Bracket 148CW or its guide may have become sprung so that they do not engage freely. The trip-pin in end of 148CW should disengage readily from trip-dog 13CW and it may require filing to make it do so. It should lap about one- eighth inch on the dog. The weight and scale-beam must move freely without catching or rubbing on any stationary part and end of beam must strike Rest 150CW when down. The Trip Crank 20CW must be past its dead-center when the trip-pin rests against the dog, so that the weight of the cut-off (15CW and 16CW) will revolve the shaft and engage the worm as soon as the trip-dog is released by the downward movement of the hopper. The vertical shaft must turn freely, except when stopped by the trip- pin. The chain should be of such a length that it allows the: grain handi^ers 247 the cut-off to fully close when the trip-crank is at its ex- treme throw. Caution Regarding the Sprocket-Chain. The chain in the elevators of all the grain-handlers must be kept prop- erly adjusted. Since they are driven from the bottom, when the chain is too loose, it does not hug the sprocket properly and wears unnecessarily. On the other hand the chain should not be so tight as to be in tension, for this causes unnecessary friction and the consequent wear on the chain and shafts. A worn chain that is liable to come apart can have its usefulness prolonged. The hook of each link may be closed by hammering its point, while its back rests on the horn of an anvil or similar projection. In this way the chain may be kept free from danger of unhooking until worn so that it fails from weakness. When necessary to shorten the chain, always remove two links at a time so that an odd number, three or five, of plain links remain betzueen the cups or "flights," as they are called. This is necessary because the lower sprocket has teeth engaging only alternate links of the chain and the links with flights attached must skip the teeth. This does not apply to the tailings-elevator chain, as elsewhere explained. ^ Calculating a Quantity of Grain. Where a weigher is not used, the amount of grain in a wagon-box, portable bin or in any rectangular receptacle, may be calculated as fol- lows : Determine the length, width and height in inches. 248 SCIENCE 01^ SUCCKSSFUI. THRESHING multiply them together and divide the product by 2150,* the number of cubic-inches in a bushel. The quotient will be the number of bushels. Where the depth is not uni- form, several measurements should be taken and their average used. For example, the usual v^agon-box is 36 inches wide, 124 inches long and 16 inches deep inside. Therefore, v^hen level full, it holds: 36X124X16, divided by 2150 equals 33.22 bushels. This equals 2.07 bushels for each inch of depth. In the same manner, the forty-inch wagon-box will hold: 40 X 124 X 16, divided by 2150, equals 36.91 bushels, or 2.37 bushels for each inch in depth. This method of calculating the quantity of grain gives the correct result only when the grain is stand- ard weight, and when lighter or heavier, correction should be made accordingly. The weight per bushel of grain and seeds is given on page 240. *More exactly, 2,150.42. INDEX FOR CONTENTS AND LIST OF ILI.USTRATIONS SEE PAGES 4 AND 5. Page Adjusting- Connecting' Rod . 50 Adjusting Cross-Head 52 Adjusting Eccentric Strap.. 54 Adjusting Engine Bearing 50-54 Adjusting Friction Clutch . 124 Adjusting Horse Power . . . 135 Adjusting Tailings Elevator 176 Adjustable Sieves 170 Admission, Steam 67 Alfalfa, Threshing 199 Alsike Clover 199 Ascending Hills 62 Ascertaining Cylinder S'peed 155 Ashes, Removing the 41 Asphaltum Paint 113 Attached Stacker 233 Attached Stacker, Oiling . . 234 Attached Stacker, Operating 234 Attaching Horse Power Brake 138 Attaching Combined Stacker 238 Attaching Engine Fittings. 9 Attaching Feeder 228 Attaching Grain Handlers.. 245 Attaching Oil Pump 46 Attaching Lubricator 48 B Babbitting Boxes Babbitting Cannon Bearings Babbitting Eng. Bearings . . Babbitting Solid Box Babbitting Split Box Bagger, No. 4 Balancing Separator Cyl. . . . Barley, Threshing Beading Boiler Tubes Bean Pulle^^s Bean Threshing Bean Threshing, Soy Bearings, Adjusting Engine 224 56 4 224 226 244 159 1S6 115 194 193 193 .54 B Page Bearings, Adjustment of . . . 50 Bearings, Babbitting Can- non 56 Bearings, Babbitting Eng.. 54 Bearings, Engine 50-54 Bearings, Hot 219 Bearings, Lubricating Eng. 43 Bearings, Separator Cyl.... 156 Beater 162 Beater, Removing the 222 Belt, Governor 73 Belt, How to Cross 61 Belt, Main Drive 212 Belting of a Separator 210 Belts, Care of 211 Belts, Lacing 213-218 Belts, Lacing Canvas '216 Belts, Leather 211 Belts, Length of 206 Belts, List of 206 Belts, Rubber 211 Blinds, Fan 169 Blower, The 110 Blower (see Wind Stacker) Board, Check 163 Board, Wind 170 Boiler, The 107 Boiler, Cleaning the 113 Boiler, Fittings 107 Boiler, Foaming Ill Boiler, How to Test 117-119 Boiler, Paint 113 Boiler, Pressure in an Old.. 117 Boiler, Priming 112 Boiler, Temp, of Water in.. 120 Boiler, Temp, of Steam in.. 120 Boiler, Tubes, Expanding . 115 Boiler, Using an Old 117 Bourdon Tube 108 Boxes, Babbitting 224 Boxes, Babbitting Solid ... 224 249 3 Page Boxes. Babbitting- Split 226 Boxes, Separator CyliRder.. 156 Brake, Horse Power 78 Brake for Horse Power.... .138 Brake, Prony 78 Brass Fittings, Attacliing., 9 Brasses, Connecting Rod .. 5 Brasses, Eccentric Rod .... 53 Brick Arcli 37 Broken Water Glass 20 Burning Coal 33 Burning Cobs 40 Burning Oil 39 Burning Straw 35 Burning Wood 34 Brome Grass, Threshing... 202 Buckwheat, Threshing 189 Bull-Pinion Boxes 137 Bull-Pinion Shaft 137 C Cable. Use of 64 Calculating Horse Power... 81 Calculating Amount Grain.. 247 Cannon Bearings, Oiling... 121 Canvas Cover 222 Canvas Belt, Stitched 216 Care of Separator 221 Center-Head, Packing 87 Center-Head, To Test 8S Centers, Finding the D-ead. 93 Chaffer 171 Chain for Grain Handlers.. 246 Chains for Eng., Steering.. 6 Chains for Tailings Elev... 176 Check-Board 163 Check- Valve 2 8 Check-Valve, Regrinding. . . 29 Cleaning Apparatus 169 Cleaning Boilers 113 Cleaning Tubes 115 Clearance of Engine 68 Clearance, To Divide 68 Clinkers 34 Clover, I-Iulling 198 Clutch, Friction 123 Clutch, Friction, Adjusting. 124 Clutch, Friction, Oiling ... 125 Coal, Firing with 33 C Page Cobs, Firing with 40 Cobs, Fuel Value of 41 Combination Stackers 238 Combination Stacker, At- taching 238 Combination Stacker, Oiling 239 Combination Stacker, Oper- ating 239 Common Sieve 171 Common Sieves, List of 174. Common S'ieve, To Insert . 172 Common Stacker 233 Compound Cyl., Taking Apart 86 Compound, The Woolf 85 Com.pounded Engines 84 Compounded Valve, Setting. 102 Compression, Steam 67 Concaves, Adjustment of . . 161 Concaves, Setting the 160 Concaves, Special 161 Concaves, The 160 Connecting the Equalizers. 133 Connecting Rod 50 Connecting Red Brasses ... 50 Conveyor Boxes 16 8 Conveyor Extension 171 Conveyor, Removing the . . 22 3 Conveyor, Sieve Speed 167 Conveyor, The 167 Contents of Wagon Box ... 248 Cost of Oils 45 Covers, Nailed Pulley 209 Covers, Riveted Pulley .... 209 Cracking Grain 157 Crank Disc 70 Crank Pin 70 Cross-Head, Adjusting 52 Cross-Head Shoes 5 2 Crown Sheet, Warped 17 Cup, "Ideal Grease" 45 Cushion, Steam 67 Cut-Off, Steam 67 Cut-Off for Woolf Gear, Even 101 Cylinder, Balancing Sep... 159 Cylinder Boxes, Sep 156 Cylinder, End Play of Sep. 156 Cylinder, Engine 65 250 c Page Cylinder, Lubrication of En- gine 44 Cylinder Oil, Cost of 45 Cylinder Pulleys, Sep 155 Cylinder, Separator 153 Cylinder, Special S'eparator. 15 9 Cylinder Speed, Ascertain- ing 155 Cylinder, Speed of Sep 155 Cylinder Teeth, Separator. 153 Cylinder Teeth Tracking Separator 157 D Dead-Centers, Finding .... 93 Descending Hills 63 Differential Gear 126 Differential Gear, Locking.. 127 Differential Gear, Oiling . . 128 Disturbing Valve Settings. 96 Dividing Clearance 6 8 Draft, Forced 110 Draft, Natural 110 Draw Bar Horse Power.... 81 Drawing Taper Keys 209 Dressing for Belts 211 Eccentric Strap, Adjusting. 53 Elevator, Tailings 173 Emmer, Threshing 190 End-Play, S'eparator Cyl... 156 Engine, Compounded 84 Engine, Fittings for 9 Engines, Handling the .... 59 Engine, Hors-e Power of... 81 Engine, Oiling tlie 43 Engine Packed for Ship- ment 9 Engine, Setting the 61 Enginis, Speed of 73 Engine, Starting an 11 Engine on Road, Starting. . 12 Engine, Steaming Up 10 Engine, Steering 60 Engine Tender 129 Engine, Valve Gear 89 Equal Leads, Woolf Gear.. 102 25 E Page Equalizers, Connecting the. 133 Exhaust Nozzles 42 Exhaust Ports 66 Expansion of Steam 66 Expanding Boiler Tubes ... 115 Extension, The Conveyor.. 171 F Pan, The 169 Fan Blinds 169 Fan, Removing the 224 Fan, Speed of 170 Fan, To Reach 224 Feather K-eys 207 Feeder, Attaching 228 Feeder Carrier, Folding .. 229 Feeder Governor 230 Feeder, Oiling thie 229 Feeder, Self 228 Feeder, Speed of 231 Feeder Speed Governor.... 230 Feeder Straw Governor.... 230 Feeding by Hand 227 Feeding the Separator .... 227 Feed Water Heaters 29 Feed Water Straining .... 15 Peed Water, The 15 Figuring the Horse Power. . 81 Finding the Dead Centers. 93 Fire, In Case of 152 Fire, Starting 10 Firing witia Coal 33 Firing with Cobs 40 Firing with Oil 39 Firing with S'traw 35 Firing with Wood 34 Firing with Various Fuels. 33 Fittings for Boiler 107 Fittings, Attaching Brass.. 9 Pitting up an Engine 9 Flax, Threshing 188 Flues, Cleaning tlie 115 Flues, Expanding the 115 Foaming of Boiler Ill Folding Feeder Carrier 229 Friction-Clutch 123 Friction-Clutch, Adjusting. 125 Friction-Clutch, Oiling .... 125 Fuel, Coal 33 I p Page Fuel, Cobs 40 PuBl, Oil 38 Fuel, Straw 35 Fuel, Wood 34 Fusible Plug 17, 110 G Gage Cocks 19 Gage, Glass 18 Gage, Steam 107 Gage, V/ater 18 Gear, Differential 124 Gear, Locking Differential. 127 Gear, Oiling Differential... 128 Gear, Valve 89 Gearing, Lubricating the .. 122 Gearing, Traction 121 Glass, The Water 18 Governor, Engine 72 Governor, Adjusting Feeder 230 Governor, B-elt for Engine. 73 Governor Jumps, If Engine 74 Governor, Oiling the 73 Governor, Packing 73 Governor, Speed of Engine. 73 Governor, Speed of Feeder. 230 Governor Troubles 74 Grain, Calculating Am't of. 246 Grain Conveyor, Removing 223 Grain Handlers 241 Grain Handlers, Attaching. 245 Grain Handlers, Chain for. 246 Grain, Headed 181 Grain, Quantity of 247 Grain, Threshing 181 Grain, Weight per Bushel.. 240 Grain, Weighers of 211 Grates, Rocking 41 Grates, Separator 163 Grates, Warped Engine ... 33 Gravel Hills 63 Grease Cup, "Ideal" 45 Greasing the Trucks 220 Grouters, High 64 H Hand Feeding 227 Hand-Hole Plates, Packing. 114 H Page Handling the Engine 59 Hard Oil 45 Heater for Feed Water 29 Heater, Testing 31 Heater, Repairing 31 Hills, Ascending 62 Hills, Descending 63 Hills, Gravel 63 Holes, Mud 63 Horse Power, Brake 78 HorsB Power, Calculating . 81 Horse Power, Draw Bar . . 81 Horse Power of an Engine 81 Horse Power, Indicated ... 78 Horse Power, Rated 75 Horse Powers 131 Horse Powers, Adjusting .. 135 Horse Powers, Brake for ... 138 Horse Powers, Bull Pinion for 139 Horse Powers, Equalizers for 133 Horse Powers, Jacks for ... 135 Horse Powers, Horses for 131-140 Horse Powers, Lubricating . . 132 Horse Powers, Parts for . . . 142 Horse Powers, Reversing ... . 138 Horse Powers, Setting 131 Horsti Powers, Pinions for.. 134 Horse Powers, Starting .... 131 Horses, Work of 140 Hot Bearings 219 Hulling Clover 198 I "Ideal" Grease Cup 45 Independent Pump 23 Independent Stacker 234 Indian Corn, Threshing .... 203 Indicated Horse Power .... 78 Injector 20 Injector Failing to Work... 21 Inserting Common Sieves.. 172 J Jack for Horse Power 135 Jack, Lifting 61 Jack, Screw 61 Jacks, Bolster 151 252 K Page Kaffir Corn, Threshing- 203 Keys, Drawing Taper 208 Keys, Fitting 208 Keys, Taper 207 Keys, Feather 207 li Lacing Canvas Belts 21S Lacing Leather Belts 213 Lacing Rubber Belts 215 Lamp Black Paint 113 Laying up a Separator .... 222 Lead of Valve 100 Leather Belts 211 Leveling a Separator 151 Lining up Eng. and Sep... 61 Link Reverse Valve Setting 103 Linseed Oil, Paint 113 Loader, No. 5 245 Loader, No. 6 245 Locking the Differential ... 127 Lost Motion in Engine .... 50 Low Water 16 Lubricating the Engine ... 43 Lubricating the Gearing . . 122 Lubricating Horse Powers. 132 Lubricating Separators .148-219 Lubricating Wind Stackers 237 Lubrication of Cylinder ... 44 Lubricator, Attaching 48 Lubricator, Operating 48 Lubricator Troubles 49 Lucerne Threshing 199 M Main Engine Bearing 54 Main Cylinder Pulleys .... 155 Main Drive Belt 212 Maize, Threshing 203 Marsh Pump, Starting .... 23 Millet, Threshing 190 Mud Holes 63 Mud Hooks 64 N Nailed Pulley Covers 209 New Separator, Starting ... 147 Nozzl-es, Exhaust 42 No. 1 Weigher 242 No. 2 Weigher 244 N Page No. 3 Weigher 244 I^o. 4 Bagger 245 No. 5 Loader 245 No. 6 Loader 245 O Oats, Threshing 185 Oil, Cost of 45 Oil, Cylinder 44 Oil, Firing- with 39 Oil, Fuel Value of 40 Oil, Hard 45 Oil Pump, Attaching 46 Oiling a Separator 148 Oiling Attached Stackers... 234 Oiling Cannon Bearings ... 121 Oiling Combined Stacker .. 239 Oiling Engine 43 Oiling Differential Gear ... 128 Oiling Feeder ,, . . . 229 Oiling Friction Clutch 125 Oiling Governor 73 Oiling Separator 148 Oiling Tailings Elevator .. 176 Oiling Trucks 220 Oiling Valve of Engine .... 44 Oiling Wind Stacker 237 Old Boiler, Testing an 117 Old Boiler, Danger of Using 117 Operating Attached Stacker 234 Operating Combined Stacker 239 Operating Lubricator ...... 48 Operating Wind Stacker .. 235 Orchard Grass, Threshing- . 201 Packing Center Head of En- gine 87 Packing Cylinder Head .... 6 9 Packing Governor 73 Packing Hand-Hole Plates 114 Packing Piston Rod 69 Packing Pump 27 Packing Steam Chest Cover 69 Packing Swift Lubricator. . 50 Packing Valve Rod 69 Packing Valve Stem 69 Packing Water Glass 19 253 Page Painting- the Boiler 113 Parts for Horse Powers ... 142 Pea Pulleys 194 Pea Threshing 191 Peas, Special Cylinder for.. 15 9 Peanut Pulleys 205 Peanut Threshing 204 Peep HoIb 38 Penberthy Injector 20 Piston, Engine 6 8 Pop Safety Valve 109 Port, Exhaust 66 Port, S'team 66 Pounding of an Engine .... 56 Pounding of Straw Rack... 168 Pressure for an Old Boiler. 117 Priming 112 Prony Brake 78 Pulleys for Cylinder Shaft. 155 Pulleys, Covering 209 Pulley-Covers, Nailed 209 Pulley-Covers, Riveted 209 Pump, Independent 23 Pump Packing 27 Pump, Starting 23 Pump Troubles 24-27 Rated Horse Power Red-Top-Grass, Thr'eshing . Regrinding Check Valves . . Removing the Ashes Removing the Beater Removing the Conveyor .... Removing" the Pan Removing the Rock-Shaft, . Removing the Shoe Removing the Straw Rack.. Removing Spur-Wheel S'haf t Removing Taper Keys Repairing Heater Reverse Gear for Engime . . Reversing Gearing of H. P. Reversing Tumbling Rod . . Rice Pulleys Rice, Threshing Riveted Pulley Covers Rocking Grates Rock Shaft, Removing- 75 202 29 41 222 223 224 223 224 223 137 208 31 89 138 138 197 195 209 41 223 R Page Rubber Belts 211 Rye, Threshing 184 s: Safety Plug 17, 110 Safety Valve 109 Scraping the Tubes 115 Screens 172 Scre'ens, List of 174 Seed, Weight per Bushel... 240 Self-Feeders 228 Separating, Difficulty of . . . 180 Separator, Belts for 211 Separator, Belting 210 Separator, Canvas Cover for 222 Separator, Care of 221 Separator Cylinder 153 Separator, Feeding the .... 227 Separator, Laying up 222 Separator, Leveling the ... 15 Separator Lubrication 219 Separator, New 147 Separator, Oiling the 148 S'eparator, Pulleys for 207 Separator, Setting up 147 Separator, Setting the .... 145 Separator, Side Gear 134 Separator, Starting a 147 Setting as to Wind 152 Setting the Concaves 160 Setting the Engine 61 Setting the Horse Power ..132 Setting the Separator 150 Setting up Separator 150 Setting the Valve, Com- pound 102 Setting Valve, Link Rev... 103 Setting Valve, Woolf Rev.. 98 Sho-e, Removing 224 Shoe, Waste at 179 Side Gear for Separator .... 134 Sieves 170 Sieves, Adjustable 170 Sieves, Common 171 Sieves, Common, List of . . . 174 Sieves, To Insert 172 Simple Engine 66 Slide-Valve 66 254 s Page Slip of Valve, Woolf Gear.. 99 S'moke Box 41 Smoke Box, Painting- 113 Smoke Stack 113 Soft Plug 17, 110 Solid Boxes, Babbitting .... 224 Soy Beans, Threshing 193 Special Concaves 161 Special Cylinders, Sep 159 Special Cylinders, Beans .. 194 Special Cylinders, Peas .... 194 Special Cylinders, Rice .159-194 Special High Grouters .... 64 Special Straw Rack 168 Speed, Ascertaining Cyl.... 155 S'peed of Engine 73 Speed of Fan 170 Spe-ed of Feeder 231 Speed of Separator Cyl. 154-156 Speed of Straw Rack 167 Speed of Tumbling Rod . . , 134 Speed of Wind Stacker Fan 238 Speltz, Threshing 190 Split Box, Babbitting 226 Spur Pinions, Horse Power 134 Spur Whe-el Shaft, H. P 139 Stackers, Attached 233 Stackers, Combined 238 Stackers, Common 232 Stackers, Independent 234 Stackers, Oiling Attached . 234 Stackers, Operating At- tached 234 Stackers, Straw 233 Stackers, Wind 234 Stack Building, Wind Stack- er 235 Starting Engine 11 Starting Horse Power 131 Starting Injector 20 Starting Marsh Pump 23 Starting Separator 147 Starting Traction Gearing. . 12 Steam Admission 67 Steam Chest 66 Steam Cut-Off 67 Steam Expansion 67 Steam Gage 107 Steam Gage Siphon 108 S Page Steam Ports 66 Steam, Temperature of 120 Steel Cable, Use of 64 Steering Engine 60 Straining the Feed Water. . 15 Straw, Firing with 35 Straw, Fuel Value of 40 Straw-Rack 167 Straw-Rack Boxes 168 Straw-Rack Fish-Backs ... 168 Straw-Rack, Oregon 168-187 Straw-Rack, Pounding of.. 168 Straw-Rack, Removing .... 223 Straw-Rack, Special 168 Straw-Rack, Speed of 167 Straw-Rack, Texas 203 Straw Stackers 233 Sweating 119 T Tables of Weights and Measures 232 Tailings 177 Tailings Elevator, Adjusting 176 Tailings Elevator, Oiling... 176 Tailings Elevator, The 173 Tank, Contractors 130 Tank-Pump 130 Tank, Tender 129 Tank, Water 129 Taper-K'eys 207 Taper-Keys, Drawing 208 Teeth, Cylinder 153 Teeth Tracking 157 Testing Boiler 117-118 Testing Water-Heater 31 Tenders, Engine 129 Throttle 71 Throttle, Leaky 71 Threshing, Alfalfa 199 Threshing, Barley 1S6 Threshing, Bean 193 Threshing Brome Grass.... 202 Threshing, Buckwheat .... 189 Threshing, Emmer 190 Threshing, Flax 188 Threshing, Headed Grain... 181 Threshing, Indian Corn . . . 203 Threshing, Kaffir Corn .... 203 255 Page Thr-eshing-, Lucerne 199 Threshing-, Maize 203 Threshing, Millet 190 Threshing, Oats 185 Threshing, Orchard Grass.. 201 Threshing, Peanuts 204 Threshing, Peas 191 Threshing, Red Top Grass.. 202 Threshing, Kice 195 Threshing, Rye 184 Threshing, Soy Beans 193 Threshing, Sp'eltz 190 Threshing, Timothy 200 Threshing, Turkey- Wheat . 184 Threshing, Waste in 178 Threshing, Wheat 182 Tightener Pulley, Oiling. .. .149 Timothy, Threshing ... 200 Tracking of Teeth 157 Traction Parts, Starting the 12 Traction Gearing 121 Trucks, Greasing 220 Tubes, Beading 115 Tubes, Cleaning 115 Tubes, Expanding 115 Tubes, Leaky 115 Tumbling-Rod, Reversing.. 138 Tumbling-Rod, Speed of... 134 Turkey- Wheat, Threshing, . 184 V Valve, Check 28 Valve, Com.pound 85 Valve Gear 89 Valve Gear, Woolf 91 Valve Gear, Disturbing .... 96 Valve Lead 100 Valve Oil 44 Valve, Pop, Safety 109 Valve, Portable Engine 102 Valve-Seat 66 Valve, Setting, Compounded 202 Valve, S'etting, Link Reverse 103 Valve, Setting, Portable En- gine 102 . Valve Setting, Woolf Re- verse 98 V Page Valve-Slip 99 Valve, if Disturbed 96 Valve Lubrication 44 Valve, Slide 66 Valve, Wide End of Slide.. 67 Various Fuels, Firing with 33 W Wa-gon-Box, Contents of... 248 Washing the Boiler 113 Waste at Shoe 179 Waste in Separating 179 Wasfe in Threshing 178 Water, Feed 15 Water, Foaming Ill Water-Gauge IS Water-Glass, Broken 20 Water-Glass, Packing 19 Water-Heater 29 Water, Low 16 Water, Priming 112 Water Tanks 129 Watier, Temperature of .... 120 Weigher, No. 1 242 Weigher, No. 2 244 Weigher, No. 3 244 Weigher Troubles 246 Weight of Grain 240-242 Wheat, Kernels per Buslrel 178 Wheat, Threshing 182 Wheat, Threshing Turkey.. 184 "White-Caps" in Wheat 184 Wind-Board 170 Wind-Stackier 234 Wind-Stacker Fan Speed... 238 Wind-S'tacker, Lubricating. 237 Wind-Stacker, Operating . . 235 Wind-Stacker Stack Build- ing 237 Wood, Firing with 34 Wood, Fuel Value of 39 Woolf Compound, The 84 Woolf Reverse, Setting Valve 98 Woolf Valve Gear 91 Work of Horses 140 256 iSl S One copy del. to Cat. Div. h?9 5 VH\ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS DDDE7Sfl7flST Mm / ^ / INCORPORATED A^iciNEAV/S., ^\l U.S.A. ^.