{"1":{"fulltext":"","height":"4260","width":"2795","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0001.jp2"},"2":{"fulltext":"Class\nBook\nCOPYRIGHT DEPOSIT","height":"4253","width":"2467","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0002.jp2"},"3":{"fulltext":"","height":"4253","width":"2467","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0003.jp2"},"4":{"fulltext":"","height":"4253","width":"2467","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0004.jp2"},"5":{"fulltext":"","height":"4253","width":"2467","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0005.jp2"},"6":{"fulltext":"","height":"4253","width":"2467","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0006.jp2"},"7":{"fulltext":"","height":"4253","width":"2467","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0007.jp2"},"8":{"fulltext":"","height":"4253","width":"2467","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0008.jp2"},"9":{"fulltext":"THE\nJ,\nJ\nSCIENTIFIC AMERICAN\nCYCLOPEDIA\nOF\nReceipts, Notes and Queries\nEDITED BY\nALBERT A. HOPKINS.\n/tl\nNEW YORK:\nMUNN CO., Publishers.\n1892.","height":"4320","width":"2641","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0009.jp2"},"10":{"fulltext":"I\nCopyrighted 1891, by Munn Co.\nCopyrighted 1892, by Munn Co.\n(All flights Reserved.\nMACOOWAN SLIPPER,\nPrinters,\n30 beekman st. new york.","height":"4327","width":"2575","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0010.jp2"},"11":{"fulltext":"PREFACE.\nFor nearly fifty years past, the choicest information resulting\nfrom the practical experience of the best writers in nearly every\nbranch of the useful arts has been regularly garnered weekly\nin the Scientific American, especially in the columns of Notes,\nQueries and Correspondence, which have obtained a world-wide\n;lebrity for the extraordinary variety and rare value of the\nfecial knowledge therein presented. This vast compendium of\n^eful information, carefully digested and condensed, forms the\nisis of the present work to this important additions have been\nade after laborious researches among the difficult and often inac-\nissible mysteries known as Trade Secrets.\nAmong the kindred works consulted, and from which extracts\nive been made, are those of Cooley, Spon, Gardner, Crookes and\nhers, all of standard value and excellence.\nIf the inexperienced reader should sometimes be unable to\nsecure the expected result, it may be well for him to ascertain\nif it is not due to one of the following causes\nFirst. The use of wrong materials. This is a fruitful source\nof trouble. In the old nomenclature, many chemicals and mate-\nrials had an entirely different name from those that they bear\nto-day, thus giving rise to much confusion.\nSecond. The use of impure materials, or materials which\nhave deteriorated. The receipts are written on the supposition\nthat the materials are pure, or nearly so, unless otherwise stated.\nThe use of poor or adulterated materials is often fatal to success.\nThird. The want of care in following the directions. An\nexample of this is given in the Hektograph, of which many were\nmade as directed in the Scientific American, and the results were\nreported to the editor. A large number reported complete suc-\ncess, while others failed, not having closely followed the directions.","height":"4320","width":"2641","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0011.jp2"},"12":{"fulltext":"Fourth. Mistakes in quantities.\nFifth. Mistakes in the order of mixing. The order given in\nthe receipt book should be closely observed.\nSixth. Difference in strength. Acids, alcohols, etc., can be\npurchased of all strengths, and when a certain degree of strength\nis given in the receipt, it only should be used. Alcohol, ammonia,\nand some other chemicals lose their strength if left standing exposed\nto the air.\nThe following abbreviations are used throughout the work,\nthe abbreviations on page one being usually used in preparing\nmedical prescriptions: Grn., grain or grains; grm., for gramme or\ngrammes; scr., scruple; oz., ounce or ounces; lb., pound or\npounds 1., liter or liters k., kilogramme or kilogrammes and the\nusual abbreviations, pt., qt., gal., dwt. syn. for synonymous prep,\nfor preparation^","height":"4351","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0012.jp2"},"13":{"fulltext":"THE\nScientific American Cyclopedia of Receipts,\nNOTES AND QUERIES.\nAbbreviations.— The abbreviations used\nin this book are the ones usually accepted,\nand many of them will be found in the tables\nin. the Appendix.\nSigns and abbreviations* used in medical pre-\nscriptions.\nR Recipe Take\naa .Ana Of each\nft Librum ....Pound\n5 TJncia Ounce\n3 ..Drachma Drachm\n3 Scrupulus Scruple\nCong....Congious Gallon\nO Octarius Pint\n5 Fluid Uncia Fluid Ounce\nf 3 Fluid Drachma Fluid Drachm\nM. Minimum Minim\nChart .Chartula Small Paper\nCoch Cochlear Spoonful\nCollyr Collirium Eye Water\nDecot .Decoctum Decoction\nFt Fiat Make\nGarg.. Gargarisma Gargle\nGr Granum Grain\nGtt Gutta Drop\nHaust. .Haustus Draught\nInfus. .Inf usum Infusion\nM Misce Mix\nMass .Massa Mass\nMist. .Mistura Mixture\nPulv .Pulvus Powder\nQ. S Quantum Sufficit Sufficient Quantity\nSig or S.Signa Write\nS. S Semis Half\nS.V Spirits of Wine\nS.V. R Rectified\nS.V.T Proof Spirit\nTable showing the signs used in writing medi-\ncal prescriptions.\ngrain gr.\n1\nI*\n2 grains\n2y 2\n4\n8\n^scruple 3 ss.\n1 3 i, or 3 j.\n1H 3iss.\n2 scruples 3 ii, or 3 ij.\n1 drachm 3\nIK 3\n2 drachms 3\n3 3\nm M 3\nWz 3\njounce f ss.\n1 5 i, or 5 J.\n1H iss.\nJ^pint Oss.\n1 O.\nAbrasions.— When the scarf skin is abrad-\ned, the best and simplest application is a single\nlayer of flexible collodion. If much epidermis\ngr. j, or gr. i.\ngr. iss.\ngr. ii. or gr. ij.\ngr. iiss.\ngr. iv.\ngr. viii, or gr. vii j.\ni,or 3 j.\niss.\nii, or 3 ij.\nin, or 3 iij.\niiiss.\nviiss.\nhas been lost and the part bleeds freely, a paste\nof equal parts of glycerine and subnitrate of\nbismuth may be laid on and covered with col-\nlodion.\nAbsinth. See Liquors.\nAbsorbent Cotton.— Boil best quality of\ncotton with 5 per cent solution of caustic soda\nor potash for one half hour. Wash thoroughly\nand press out all water as far as possible, and\nimmerse in a 5 per cent solution of chloride of\nlime (bleaching powder) for 15 or 20 minutes\nwash with a little water, then with water acid-\nulated with hydrochloric acid, then with water.\nBoil once more for 15 minutes with caustic\nsoda solution, and wash with acidulated and\nplain water as before.\nAbsorbent Powders. See Powders.\nAbstergents. In medicine and pharmacy,\nsubstances which cleanse or clear away foul-\nness from the surface of the body or sores, as\nsoaps, lotions, etc.\nAcademy Board. Smooth. Apply to\njunk board a coating of size when dry, spread\non thick paint with a pallet knife.\nRough.— Size heavy manila paper, apply to\ntwo sheets a thick coat of paint, place the\npainted sides together, then pull them apart.\nThis will give the board a roughened surface\nor tooth.\nAccidents, etc. See also Drowning,\nFainting.— At once make the patient lie\ndown, with the head quite low. Loosen arti-\ncles of dress. Let patient have plenty of air,\nand keep people from crowding round. Apply\nsmelling salts, cautiously, to nose. Sprinkle\nface with a little cold water smartly. If faint\ncontinues long, or feet and hands are cold,\napply hot bottles, and when patient can swal-\nlow, give a teaspoon! ul of sal volatile in water,\nor a little spirits in water.\nFits.— This means either apoplexy or epilep-\nsy. Apoplexy is attended with insensibility.\nThe patient falls, generally, but not always,\ngrows purple in the face, and breathes in a\nsnoi ing manner. There is paralysis of one\nside, and the mouth is drawn to one side. Place\npatient in bed, with head raised. If hot, apply\ncold water to head, and send for doctor.\nIn epilepsy, patient usually gives a scream,\nbecomes deadly pale, falls on his face, becomes\nconvulsed, and then profoundly insensible.\nWhile in this state, all that need be done is to\nloosen articles of dress, and keep patient quiet\nand beyond danger of hurting himself until\nsensibility returns. It is then a case for med-\nical treatment.\nChoking.— Choking arises from food, or fluids\nor other substances sticking in the throat or\npassing into the air passages. In bad choking,\nwhere the patient suddenly turns dark in the\nface, etc., no time is to be lost. Open the\nmouth, and push your forefinger in a deter-\nmined way over the tongue, right back, and","height":"4320","width":"2641","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0013.jp2"},"14":{"fulltext":"Accidents.\nAgar-agar.\ntry to book away or push aside the hinder-\nance. If this does not succeed, you may, by\npressing the hinder portion of the tongue,\nbring on vomiting, and so secure relief. A\ngood plan is sometimes tried with children,\nviz., that of pressing the chest and stomach\nagainst something hard, as a table or a chair,\nthen slapping or thumping the back between\nthe shoulder blades. In this way air is driven\nfrom the lungs through the windpipe so forci-\nbly as often to expel the obstacle. When the\nobstruction consists of a coin, as often in the\ncase of children, a good plan is at once to take\nthe child up by the heels, and at the same time\ngive it a shake or slap its back. Fish bones\ncan sometimes be got rid of by swallowing a\nmouthful of bread. If these remedies fail,\nmedical help should at once be called in.\nSuffocation by Gases.— Drag the patient as\nquickly as possible into fresh air, loose cloth-\ning, dash cold water on head, face, and upper\npart of chest. If the breathing has stopped,\nartificial respiration must be resorted to.\nPoisoning. Send at once for the nearest doc-\ntor, telling him all the particulars, so that\nhe may bring what is necessary. Unless the\npoison is an irritant, such as oil of vitriol or\nthe like, which burns or destroys the stomach,\netc., do all you can to make the patient sick.\nYou may give a tablespoonful of mustard in a\ntumbler of warm water, or the same amount\nof common salt with warm water. If the pa-\ntient is drowsy, as from poisoning by narco-\ntics, you must do all you can to keep him\nawake by dashing cold water on his head and\nface, walking him about, etc. Do not permit\nhim to sleep. In cases of poisoning by irri-\ntants, emetics should not be given, but you\nshould try to save the stomach as much as\npossible by giving soothing drinks, as milk,\netc. Always try to find out what the poison\ntaken has been. You will generally be able to\nrecognize a case of irritant poison, even if the\npatient cannot tell you, by the stains on the\nclothes, lips, etc., the burning sensation of the\nmouth, the terrible suffering of the stomach,\nthe retching and vomiting of blood, etc. Med-\nical advice must in any case of poison be called\nin with the utmost haste.— See Poisons for\ntables of antidotes.\nPoisoning by Alcohol, or Drunkenness.— Get\nthe patient under cover as soon as possible.\n]f insensible, rouse him by dashing cold water\non the face. Endeavor to make the patient\nvomit. Hub the surface of the body with\nwarm, dry ck ths wrap the patient in blank-\nets put hot water bottles to his feet, and do\nall you can to keep up the heat of the body,\nwhich is always lowered in the state of intoxi-\ncation.\nBroken Limbs.— The thing to be first done is\nto keep the limb quite steady till the surgeon\ncomes. This is done by placing- on each side\nof the broken limb whatever may be at hand,\nsuch as slips of wood, small pillows, an um-\nbrella, the stock and barrel of a gun, or two\nwalking sticks, or even firmly rolled straw, or\npads of cotton wool, and retaining them in\ntheir position by one or two handkerchiefs,\nnot tied too tightly. Never raise the patient\nfrom the ground until the nature of his injury\nhas been ascertained, or some appliance has\nbeen made to prevent the movement of the\nbroken limb. Then raise him, if possible, with\nthe help of several persons, and, as it were, in\none solid piece, all moving together, and keep-\ning step in carrying. If a patient has to be\ncarried home, let it be on a shutter, or a table,\nor a stretcher, on which he can lie flat, instead\nof being doubled up in a cab, as is often done\nIt is from neglect of this simple rule that\nbroken bones are often made to protrude\nthrough the flesh, simple being thus turned\ninto compound fractures, attended by the risk\nof the limb being lost.\nWhat to Bo when Dress Catches Fire.— The\nfollowing are the directions given in Dr. Rob-\nert s book on ambulance work: If your own\ndress, throw yourself at once on the ground,\nso that the rising flames may not catch the\nupper part of your clothes nor burn your\nhead and chest; roll about (so putting the\nflames out by pressure), and at the same time,\nif possible, wrap yourself up closely in a rug,\nhearth rug, blanket, table cloth, overcoat, or\ncarpet, so as to smother the fire. Do not get\nup to call for assistance, but for that purpose\ncrawl to the bell rope or door. If another per-\nson s dress, throw the person on fire down at\nonce, wrap him or her up in a rug or some-\nthing similar, or, if there is nothing at hand\nsuitable, use your own coat, rolling the patient\nabout in it, for the purpose of smothering the\nflames. A woman rendering help in this way\nmust exercise great self-possession, and be\ncareful not to get her own clothes entangled\nin the flames.\nAcetate.— A salt containing the acid-radi-\ncal C 2 H 3 0j.\nAcetiflcation.-The process by which wine\nor cider is turned into vinegar.\nAcetone.— Pyro-acetic Spirit.— This is a col-\norless liquid, obtained by distilling some of\nthe acetates. It is used chiefly as a solvent for\nresins, gums, and camphor.\nAcidimeter.— An instrument for measur-\ning the strength of acids.\nAcidimetry.— This process is the converse\nof Alkalimetry. It signifies the estimation by\nmeans of a standard alkaline solution of the\nreal saturating power of a commercial sample\nof any acid. For this purpose 270 gr. of the\npure carbonate of soda, as prepared for\nstandardizing the acid used in alkalimetry, are\ndissolved in 10,000 gr. measures of distilled\nwater. 1,000 gr. measures of this will satur-\nate exactly 20 gr. of sulphuric acid 18*5 gr.\nof hydrochloric acid 27 gr. of nitric acid 30\ngr. of crystalline acetic acid 22 5 gr. of oxalic\nacid 57 gr. of dry tartaric acid 97 gr. of dry\ncitric acid.\nAcid Proof Cements. See Cements.\nAcid Stains, to Remove. See Cleans-\ning.\nAcne, Treatment for* 1. Take rose\nwater 3 oz., sulphate of zinc 1 dr. mix. Wet\nthe face with it, gently dry it, and touch it\nover with cold cream, which also gently dry off.\n2. Pay strict attention to diet and habits of\nlife, avoid rich, highly seasoned, indigestible\nfoods, take ordinary tonics, and especially ar-\nsenic. The most efficient local application is a\nsaturated solution of boric acid in alcohol,\nwashing the face but once a day in warm\nwater. Dry with a soft towel and apply the so-\nlution. This (the boric acid solution) may be\napplied three or four times daily. Rochelle\nsalts in water are also a good external appli-\ncation.\nActinometer.— This is an instrument for\nmeasuring the intensity of light. It is of\ngreat use in photography in carbon printing.\nAdhesion of Materials, to Prevent.—\nTo prevent oilcloth, patent leather, and similar\nmaterials from sticking together when rolled,\npurchase a few sheets of paraffine-impregnated\npaper, and roll with the material. This will\nprevent the sticking. It will also prevent the\nfading of the colors or gloss by keeping out air\nand moisture; the evaporation of the oil is\nlikewise prevented to a great extent.\nAerugo.— The rust of brass, bronze, or cop-\nper; verdigris; patina.\nAffusion.— In chemistry, the washing of a\nprecipitate, for the purpose of removing solu-\nble matters.\nAgar-agar.— A yellow sea-weed produced","height":"4311","width":"2624","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0014.jp2"},"15":{"fulltext":"Agate.\nAlcohol.\non the coasts of the Malay Archipelago. It re-\nsembles Iceland and Irish moss in its properties.\nAgate, to Polish. See Polishing.\nAgglutination.— The cohesion of bodies.\nAich s Metal. See Alloys.\nAir.— The following data are useful in cal-\nculations relating 1 to air\n1. To find the quantity of nitrogen by vol-\nume corresponding to 1 volume of oxygen,\nmultiply by 3*770992.\n2. To find the quantity of oxygen by volume\n•corresponding to 1 volume of nitrogen, mul-\ntiply by 0-265182.\n3. To find the quantity of nitrogen by weight\ncorresponding to 1 part by weight of oxygen,\nmultiply by 3*313022.\n4. To find the quantity of oxygen by weight\ncorresponding to 1 part by weight of nitrogen,\nmultiply by 0*301839.\n5. To find the quantity of nitrogen by vol-\nume corresponding to 1 part by weight of oxy-\ngen, multiply by 2-6365411.\n6. To find the quantity of oxygen by volume\ncorresponding to 1 part by weight of nitrogen,\nmultiply by 0*2730071.\n7. To find the quantity of nitrogen by weight\ncorresponding to 1 part by volume of oxygen,\nmultiply by 3*6629154.\n8. To find the quantity of oxygen by weight\ncorresponding to 1 part by volume of nitio-\ngen, multiply by 0*3792848.\nAir, to Test for Sewer Gas.- Saturate\nnnglazed paper with a solution of 1 oz. of pure\nlead acetate in half a pint of rain water let it\npartially dry, then expose in the room sus-\npected of containing sewer gas. The presence\nof the latter in any considerable quantity soon\ndarkens or blackens the test paper.\nAlabaster.— A soft, white, calcareous stone,\nmuch used in Italy for making ornaments.\nVolterra is the seat of the industry.\nAlabaster, to Bronze. See Bronzing.\nAlabaster, to Cement. See Cements.\nAlabaster, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nAlabaster, to Etch. See Etching.\nAlabaster, to Stain. See Staining.\nAlabaster, to Turn. Alabaster is\nwrought, turned or fashioned in the same\nmanner as marble. The tools resemble those\nemployed in like operations in ivory and brass.\nMachinery is used to a large extent.\nAlaska Scenery.— Dissolve 456 gr. of lead\nnitrate in 6 fluid oz. of water if the solution is\nturbid, filter it. Place the solution where it is\nintended that it shall remain, and drop into it\n200 gr. of sal ammoniac, in long fibrous crystals.\nThe result is Alaska scenery.\nAlbata Metal. See Alloys.\nAlbumen.— An organic nutritive principle,\nis a constituent of all animal fluids and solids.\nThe white of eggs contains 12 per cent, of albu-\nmen, and the fluid portion of blood (serum) 7\nper cent. It occurs also in the flesh, in the\nbrain, and more or less in all serous fluids.\nFibrin also may be regarded as coagulated\nalbumen. It occurs in the vegetable kingdom,\nin the sap or juice of many plants, such as the\npotato, turnip, carrot, cabbage, in the green\nstem of peas, in the seeds of the cereal grasses,\nand in many nuts.\nAlbumen Paper. See Photography.\nAlbumen, Tests for.— 1. A solution of\nbichloride of mercury dropped into a fluid con-\ntaining albumen occasions a white precipitate.\nSensibility, ^m. (Bostock.)\n2. Tannin or tincture of galls gives a yellow,\npitchy precipitate.\nAlcarazza.— Spanish water coolers. These\nare made of porous earthenware, and cool\nwater by their copious evaporation of the\nwater, which filters through.\nAlcarazzas, Compositions for. See\nCompositions.\nAlcohol. Alcohol, as the term is generally\nunderstood, may signify spirits of various\nstrengths, and we distinguish, therefore, be-\ntween alcohol of 60, 70, 80 per cent., etc., mean-\ning-that in 100 volumes of the spirit there are\ncontained 60, 70 or 80 volumes of absolute alco-\nhol. As used in the U. S. Pharmacopoeia the\nterm alcohol is meant to designate that which\ncontains 91 per cent, by weight of absolute\nalcohol and 9 per cent, of water.\nAbsolute Alcohol is alcohol without any water\nAvhatever, and, as it absorbs water from the\natmosphere with great energy, it can scarcely\nbe obtained in commerce. What is sold for\nabsolute alcohol is rarely above 98 per cent.\nAbsolute alcohol has a specific gravity of\n0-7939 at 60 degrees F.\nSpirits of Wine is the stronger alcohol that is\ngenerally found in commerce, and contains\nabout 90 per cent, of alcohol and 10 per cent,\nof water. It derives its name from the fact\nthat it was first obtained from the distillation\nof wine. The strongest commercial alcohol is\nabout 95 degrees.\nRectified Spirits are spirits rendered purer\nand stronger by redistillation.\nCologne Spirits is the highest grade of alcohol,\nhaving been so purified as to be devoid of all\ncolor and odor.\nProof Spirits or Diluted Alcohol.— Proof spirits\nare defined by the United States laws as spirit\ncontaining (in 100 volumes) 50 volumes of abso-\nlute alcohol of sp. gr. 0*7939 and 5371 volumes\nof water (the apparent excess of 3 71 vol. being\nlost by shrinking upon mixing the alcohol and\nwater). Its specific gravity is 0*93353 at 60 de-\ngrees P. The government hydrometers for\nexamining spirits are so graduated that they\nindicate (at 60 deg. F in pure water and 200\nin absolute alcohol in proof spirits they sink\nto 100. A spirit is said to be 10 above proof\nor 110 proof when the hydrometer indicates\n110, and such spirit contains 55 per cent, of ab-\nsolute alcohol. A modification of this hydro-\nmeter is the alcoholometer, which is graduated\nto show in pure water and 100 in absolute\nalcohol each division of that instrument thus\nindicates 1 per cent, of alcohol and the number\nof the division is directly equal to the volume-\ntric percentage of absolute alcohol in the\nspirit. The diluted alcohol, as the term is used\nin the TJ. S. Pharmacopoeia, is that containing\n53 per cent, by volume of absolute alcohol (or\nabout 455 per cent, by weight), and has a sp.\ngr. of 0*920.\nWood Spirits or Methyl Alcohol is a spirit ob-\ntained among other products from the de-\nstructive distillation of wood.\nMethylated Spirits.— Spirits of wine mixed\nwith 10 per cent, of commercial wood spirits.\nProportion of alcohol in 100 parts of the fol-\nlowing liquors: Scotch whisky, 5432; Irish\nwhisky, 53*9; rum, 53*68; brandy, 53*39; gin,\n516; port, 22*9; Madeira, 22*27; currant, 20*55;\nTeneriffe, 19*79; sherry, 19*17; claret, 15*1;\nchampagne, 138 gooseberry, 11*84; elder, 8*79;\nale, 6*87 porter, 4*2 cider, 9*8 to 5*2.\nAlcohol, to Deodorize.— 1. Add to the\nbarrel of alcohol a gallon of water saturated\nwith chlorine gas agitate thoroughly, let rest\nfor twelve hours, then saturate with chalk\n(which, combining with the chlorine, forms\nchloride of lime) and distill. Filtering through\nanimal charcoal after precipitating the chlo-\nrine with the chalk affords a very fair substi-\ntute for the redistilled alcohol. The fusel oil\ncan be separated from alcohol, in small quan-\ntity, by adding a few drops of olive oil and\nthoroughly agitating in a bottle and allowing\nit to settle, and then decant. The olive oil com-\nbines with and retains the fusel oil.\n2. Alcohol employed in perfumery should be\nfree from all smell of fusel or other oils. At-\nwood s (patent) alcohol is deodorized by distil-","height":"4320","width":"2641","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0015.jp2"},"16":{"fulltext":"Alcoliolate,\nAlloys.\nlation over permanganate of potassa. Spirits\nof wine, brandy, and alcohol distilled over soap\nlose their empyreumatic odor and taste en-\ntirely. At about 215 degrees F., the soap re-\ntains neither alcohol nor wood spirit. The\nempyreumatic oil which remains in combina-\ntion with the soap which forms the residuum\nof the distillation is carried off at a higher\ntemperature by the watery vapor, which is\nformed during a second distillation, the pro-\nduct of which is a soap free from empyreuma,\nand is fit to be used again for similar purposes.\nThe concentration of the alcohol increases in\nthis operation more than when the soap is not\nemployed, because this compound retains the\nwater, and the alcoholic vapors which pass\nover are more concentrated. Thirty-three\npounds of soap are enough for one hundred\ngallons of empyreumatic brandy; and direct\nexperiment has shown that, under the most\nfavorable circumstances, the soap can retain\n20 per cent, of empyreumatic oil. The soap\nemployed should contain no potassa it should\nbe hard or soda soap, and ought to be com-\npletely free from any excess of fatty acids or\nfluids, otherwise it may render the product\nrancid or impure. Common soap, made with\nsoda and oleine, has satisfied all the conditions\nin practice. If this soap is employed, it is bet-\nter to add a little soda during the first distilla-\ntion.\nCaustic Alcohol.— This term is commonly ap-\nplied to sodium ethylate, a product formed by\nthe decomposition of absolute alcohol with\npure metallic sodium, the chemical formula\nbeing C 2 H 5 Na O, or alcohol which has had\none atom of its hydrogen replaced by one of\nsodium.\nMoss Alcohol. Large quantities of alcohol\nare distilled in Sweden and Russia from rein-\ndeer moss (Cladonia [Cenomycc] rangiferina)\nand Iceland moss (Cetraria islandica). The\nyield is said to be as great as from good grain,\nwhile the supply of material is abundant and\ncheap.\nAlcohol, Wood.— It is obtained, mixed with\npyroligneous acid (crude wood vinegar), from\nthe destructive distillation of wood. When\nthis is heated in a still, the first portions\ndistilling are impure wood spirit. This puri-\nfied by several rectifications (redistillations)\nyields common wood naphtha. The empyreu-\nmatic matters, acetone, etc., which it con-\ntains may be removed by heating it in a still\nover a water bath with an excess of chloride\nof calcium, as long as volatile matters escape\n(impurities), then distilling the remainder with\na quantity of water equal to the spirit taken.\nRectification of this dilute spirit over lime\nyields pure wood naphtha— methylic alcohol.\nSee Metliyl.\nAlcoliolate.— A salt in which alcohol ap-\npears to replace the water of crystallization,\nas is the case with certain chlorides, nitrates,\netc. Some of them may be formed by simple\nsolution and crystallization of the salt in alco-\nhol (Graham). They are all very unstable,\nbeing readily decomposed by water.\nAlcoholometer.— An instrument for de-\ntermining the strength of alcohol or alcoholic\nsolutions.\nAlfenite. See Alloys.\nAlgarobillo. An astringent matter found\nin the pods of a South American tree, Balsamo\ncarpum crevifolium. It contains 68 per cent,\nof tannin, and is recommended as a material\nfor the preparation of pure tannin.\nAlgiers Metal. See Alloys.\nAlkalimetry.— Is the determination of the\nquantity of real alkali in alkaline salts and so-\nlutions. As in the case of acidimetry, the de-\nterminations may be made either by gravime-\ntric or by volumetric analysis.\nGay-Lussac s method is based upon a titrated\nsolution of carbonate of soda with a corre-\nsponding solution of sulphuric acid.— Work-\nshop Receipts.\nAlkanet.— The root of Anchusa tinctoria.\nIt contains a large amount of red coloring\nmatter, which has received the names alkanine\nand anchusine, and which is insoluble in water,\nthough soluble in alcohol, and in the fatty and\nessential oils.\nAlkermes. See Liquors.\nAlio tropic.— The name given to substances\nwhich exist in two or more forms, the chem-\nical composition being the same. Thus some\nsubstances, even though they are in a gaseous\nstate, can exist in two forms— oxygen and\nozone.\nAlloys, to Electro-plate witli. See\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nAlloys.— An alloy is a combination of two\nor more metals. It is now largely believed\nthat the metals form combinations rather than\nmixtures, though one of the best metallurgists\nin England called his book on alloys Mixed\nMetals. Hiorn s definition of an alloy, from\nMixed Metals, is given below:\nNature of Alloys.— When two or more me-\ntals are caused permanently to unite, the re-\nsulting mixture is termed an alloy. When mer-\ncury is an essential constituent, the mixture is\ntermed an amalgam. The general method of\neffecting combination is by the agency of heat,\nbut with certain soft metals true alloys may be\nformed by subjecting the constituents to con-\nsiderable pressure, even at the ordinary tem-\nperature. Alloys such as those briefly re-\nferred to were doubtless first discovered by\nthe metallurgical treatment of mixed ores,\nfrom the simultaneous reduction of which\nalloys would be formed: or in some cases,\nas in ores of gold and silver, naturally\nformed alloys would be obtained by a sim-\nple melting process. The direct preparation\nof alloys by the simple melting together of\nthe constituent metals has been enormously\ndeveloped in modern times, and the attention\nwhich mixed metals are now receiving by\nchemists is far greater than in any period of\nhistory. Comparatively few of the metals\npossess properties such as render them suit-\nable to be employed alone by the manufac-\nturer but most of them have important ap-\nplications in the form of alloys. Even among\nthe metals which can be used independently, it\nis often found expedient to add portions of\nother metals, o improve or otherwise modify\ntheir physical properties. Thus gold is harden-\ned, and made to resist wear and tear, as well as\nto lower its cost, by the addition of copper\nsilver is likewise hardened by alloying it with\ncopper; and the bronze coinage is formed of\nan alloy of copper, zinc and tin for similar\nreasons.\n[For a large number of the receipts and com-\npositions we are indebted to this admirable\nlittle work.]\nAcid-resisting Alloy.— Mr. Rettz has invented\nan alloy which offers great resistance to the\naction of acids and alkalies. It has the follow-\ning composition: Copper, 15 parts; tin, 2*34\nparts; lead, 1*82 parts; antimony, 1 part. It\nis said to be a useful substitute, in laborato-\nries, for ebonite and porcelain.\nAicWs Metal.— This alloy is analogous to\nsterro metal, and shows similar valuations in\ncomposition from various analyses that have\nbeen made. Its chief properties are hardness\nand tenacity, the same remarks applying to\nthis as to sterro metal, with which it is prac-\ntically identical. Alloys under this name con-\ntain irom 0 4 to 3*0 per cent, of iron. It has a\ngolden-yellow color, and is recommended for\narticles exposed to sea water. The following\nanalyses will give an idea of the composition\nCopper 60-66 60 60*2 58 26\nZinc 3658 38 2 38 2 41 00\nTin 102\nIron 174 18 16 0T4","height":"4311","width":"2624","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0016.jp2"},"17":{"fulltext":"Alloys.\nAlloys,\nTable of Alloys.\nThe following is a table of the proportions of the various metals in the alloys most com-\nmonly employed in the arts and manufactures. The term parts means parts by weight. The\nabbreviations are Cu, copper; Zn, zinc; Sn, tin; Pb, lead; Sb, antimony; P, phosphorus; As,\narsenic; Ni, nickel.\nDescription.\n1.) Metal for f rictional parts of locomotives I\n(extremely hard) f\n(2.) Bearings of carriages\n(3.) Bearings of driving wheels, also for steam I\nengine whistles, giving a clear sound. J\n(4.) Steam engine, whistles giving a deep\nsound\n5.) Cross heads of connecting rods\n6.) Cylinders of pumps, valve boxes, and^\ntaps f\n7.) Eccentric collars\n8.) Bearings of axles and trunnions; eccentric J\ncollars I\n(9.) Pistons of locomotives j\n10.) Axle boxes\n(11.) Mathematical instruments, arms of bal- I\nances f\n(12.) Machinery, bearings, etc\n(13.) Steam engine whistles\n(14.) Metal to withstand friction (Stephen- I\nson) f\n(15.) Rivets\n(16.) Metal for coffins\n(17.) Metal to withstand friction\n(18.) Cylinders of pumps\n(19.) Metal for bearings of locomotives\n(20.) White brittle metal (for buttons, etc.)\n(21.) Imitation silver\n(22.) Pinchbeck\n(23.) Tombac\n(24.) Red tombac...\n(25.) Specially adapted for bearings.\n(26.) For bearings and valves\n(27.) Electrotype backing metal\n(28.) Stereotype metal for paper process\n(29.) plaster process\n(30.) Bullet metal\n(31.) Malleable brass plate\n(32.) Pin wire\n(33.) Jemmapes brass\n(34.) Similor for gilding\n(35.) Maillechort for rolling\n(36.) first quality\n(37.) White similor\n(38.) For stopcock seats\n(39.) plugs.\n40.) For keys of flutes, etc\n(41.) Hard tin\n(42.) White tombac\n(43.) Vogel s alloy for polishing steel\n(44.) Rompel s anti-friction metal\n(45.) Arguzoid, a tough alloy superior to\nbrass S\nCu.\n84\n88\n90\n67\n30\n79\n64\n15\n2\n7\n2\n10\n64\n5\n16\n10\n83\n83-25\n67\n67\n64-6\n92*7\n60\nZn.\nSn.\n5\n3\n2\n2\n2\n2\n2\n2\n2\n7\n4\n9\n8-4\n2\n5\n24-6\n72\n33\n33\n33-7\n4-6\n20\n3\n1\n10\n23\n18\n17\n16\n10\n14\n14\n13\n9\n28\n3\n2 9\n10\n14\n18\n3\n40\n72\n21\n90\n20\n15 5\n7\n4\n0-5\n0*2\n2 7\n86\n80\n1\n25\n2\n10\nPb.\n4*7\n19\n8\n9\n45\n9\n91\n88\n82\n92\n0-5\n0-5\n1-5\n20\n1\n18\nSb.\n26\n64\n1*5\n5\n12\n18\n14\n20\n40\n0-5\nP.\n0-75\nAs.\n0-5\nNi.\n20\n4\n13*6","height":"4320","width":"2641","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0017.jp2"},"18":{"fulltext":"Alloys.\n6\nAlloys.\nAlbata Metal.— Copper, 40 lb.; zinc, 32 lb.;\nnickel, 8 lb.\nAlfe nide.— Copper, 60 per cent.; zinc, 30 per\ncent.; nickel, 10 per cent.; iron, a trace.\nAlgiers Metal.— 1. 90 tin, 10 antimony 2. 94*5\ntin, 5 copper, 0*5 antimony. 1 is used for spoons\nand forks, 2 for small hand bells.\nAluminum and Tin. 1. Aluminum, 100\nparts; tin, 10 parts.\n2. Aluminum, 90 per cent.; tin, 10 per cent.\nBourbonne^s Aluminum Alloy.— Aluminum\nand tin, equal parts. This alloy solders easily.\nAluminum Bi onze.—lQO parts copper and 10\naluminum, measured by weighing, when com-\nbined, is a durable alloy, which may be f orged\nand worked in the same manner as copper, and\nis the same color as pale gold. 80 parts copper,\n19 zinc, and 1 aluminum form a good durable\nalloy.\nAluminum Silver.— The following alloy takes\na high silver polish, and exhibits a beautiful\nsilvery color: Copper, 70 parts; nickel, 23\nparts; aluminum, 7 parts.\nBelgian Antifriction Metal.— For parts ex-\nposed to much friction, 20 parts copper, 4 of\ntin, 0*5 of antimony, 0 25 lead. For parts sub-\njected to great concussions, 20 parts copper,\n6 zinc, 1 tin. For surfaces exposed to heat, 17\nparts copper, 1 zinc, 0 5 tin, 0*25 lead. In mak-\ning these alloys, mix all the other ingredients\nbefore adding the copper.\nAntifriction Metal.— Tin 16 to 20 parts anti-\nmony 2 parts lead 1 part fused together and\nthen blended with copper 80 parts. Used\nwhere there is much friction or high ve-\nlocity.\n2. Zinc 6 parts tin 1 part copper 20 parts\nUsed when the metal is exposed to violent\nshocks.\n3. Lead 1 part tin 2 parts zinc 4 parts\ncopper 68 parts. Used when the metal is ex-\nposed to heat.\n4. (Babbitt s.) Tin 48 to 50 parts antimony 5\nparts copper 1 part.\n5. (Fenton s.) Tin with some zinc and a\nlittle copper.\n6. (Ordinary.) Tin, or hard pewter with or\nwithout a small portion of antimony or cop-\nper. Without the copper it is apt to spread\nout under the weight of heavy machinery.\nUsed for the bearings of locomotive engines,\netc.\nArgasoid or Argusoid.-A new alloy called\nargasoid, recently described by Mr. V. Jeupt-\nner, of Vienna, has been used as a substitute\nfor silver. Its cost is said to be about fifty per\ncent, more than brass. Its chemical composi-\ntion is as follows Tin, 4 035 lead, 3 544 cop-\nper, 55*780; nickel, 13-406; zinc, 23*198 iron,\ntrace.\nWhite Argentan Zinc, 70 parts; copper, 15\nparts nickel, 6 parts.\nArgentin.—8b 5 tin, 14 5 antimony suitable\nfor spoons and forks.\nArgent- Ruolz— Silver, 20 parts; copper, 50\nparts nickel, 30 parts the proportions of the\nmetals differ according to the quality of the\nmetal.\nArgiroide.— Variety of German silver. Usu-\nally plated.\nAshberry Metal.— 78 to 82 tin, 16 to 20 anti-\nmony, 2 to 3 copper.\nBabbitt s Attrition Metal.— Preparing and\nfitting, melt separately 4 lb. of copper, 12 lb.\nbest quality Banca tin, 8 lb. regulus of anti-\nmony, and 12 lb. more ol tin while the compo-\nsition is in a melted state. Pour the antimony\ninto the tin, then mix with the copper away\nfrom the fire in a separate pot.\nIn melting the composition, it is better to\nkeep a small quantity of powdered charcoal on.\nthe surface of the metal. The above composi-\ntion is called hardening. For lining the\nboxes, take 1 lb. of hardening and melt it with\n2 lb. of Banca tin, which produces the lining-\nmetal for use. Thus the proportions for lining-\nmetal are, 4 lb. of copper, 8 lb. of regulus of\nantimony, and 96 lb. of Banca tin.\nBabbitt Metal.— By weight 4 parts copper, 8\nparts antimony, 96 parts tin.\nBath Metal.— A species of brass having the\nfollowing composition: 1. Zinc, 3 parts; cop-\nper, 16 parts melted together under charcoal.\n2. Fine brass, 32 parts spelter. 9 parts.\nBaudoin s Alloy.— Copper, 72 parts; nickel*\n16-6 parts; cobalt, 1°8 parts; ziuc, 71 parts.\nAbout 0*5 per cent of aluminum may be added..\nBearings suitable for Alloys.\n%4\nft\nft\no\no\na\n6\nHeavy\n84-5\n83-6\n84\n77\n75\n86\n82\n70\n82\n89\n13 3\n12-6\n12\n9\n4\n10\n22\n16\n2\n3-a\n4\n14\nMain\n21\nLocomotive axles\n14\nII V\n8\nModerately hard axles\nVery hard axles\n8\n2\n11\nSee also Brass and IVhite Metal.\nBell Metal.— The various alloys used in the\nmanufacture of bells consist essentially of\ncopper and tin, but in some cases other metals\nare added in small quantity either for cheap-\nness or to produce a desired quality of sound.\nThe additional metals chiefly used are zinc,\nlead, iron, and sometimes bismuth, silver, anti-\nmony, and manganese. The following table-\nwill show a few of the proportions employed\nMusical bells\nSleigh bells\nGongs\nHouse bells\nHouse bells\nLarge bells\nSwiss clock bells\nOld bell at Rouen.\nClock bells\nAlarm bell at Rouen\nTam-tam\nJapanese kara kane\nJapanese kara kane.\nJapanese kara kane.\nWhite table bells\nWhite table bells\nSmall bells\nJ_\n0\nft\no\nc5\nd\nO\n84\n16\n84-5\n15-4\n82\n18\n80\n20\n78\n22\n76\n24\n74-5\n25\n71\n26\n1-8\n72\n26-56\n75-1\n223\n1-0\n79-0\n20-3\n64\n24\n9\n70\n19\n3\n61\n18\n6\n17\n80\n87-5\n40\n60\n0-5\n1 2\n0*52\n8\n12\n1-44\n1-6\n0-18\n32\na\n01\n12-5","height":"4311","width":"2624","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0018.jp2"},"19":{"fulltext":"Alloys.\nAlloys,\nPrep.—l. Melt together, under powdered\ncharcoal, 100 parts of pure copper with 20 parts\nof tin, and unite the two metals by frequently\nstirring the mass. Remark: Product very fine.\n2. Copper, 3 parts; tin, 1 part, as above. Re-\nmark: Some of the finest church bells in the\nworld have this composition.\n3. Copper, 72 parts tin, 26^ parts iron,\nparts. Remark: The bells of small clocks or\npendules are made of this alloy in Paris.\nBell Me^al, Fine.- 71 copper, 26 tin, 2 zinc, 1\niron.\nBell Metal, for Large Bells— Copper, 100 lb.;\ntin, trom 20 to 25 lb.\nBell Metal, for Small Bells.— Copper, 3 lb.; tin,\nlib.\nAlloy for Tam-tams or Gongs— 80 parts of\ncopper and 20 of tin, hammered out with fre-\nquent annealing. An alloy of 78 of copper\nand 22 of tin answers better and can be rolled\nout.\nKara Kane Bell Metal,— The Japanese, who\nare great bronze workers, add lead, zinc, and\niron to their bell metal, with wonderful effect.\nTheir name for these compounds is kara kane.\nThe following are the proportions they use\nu\nt*s\na\np.\nP.\no\na\no\n3\no\n3\no\nH\nS3\nh!\nt-H\ny\n60\n24\n9\n3\nFirst.\n60\n15\n3\n8\nSecond.\n60\n18\n6\n12\n3\nThird.\nFor small bells they employ the first qual-\nity and for large bells the third quality.\nBibra^s A Hoy.— Bismuth, 18 parts tin, 9 parts\nlead, 38 to 40 parts.\nBidery, Vidry.— An alloy of which the chief\nseat of manufacture is the city of Bider, near\nHyderabad, India.\nMany articles made of it were greatly admir-\ned at the International Exhibition of 1851. Its\ncolor is between that of pewter and zinc, does\nnot corrode by exposure to air or damp, and\ncan only be broken by extreme violence. Zinc,\n31 parts copper and lead, each 2 parts melted\ntogether with the usual precautions under q\nmixture of resin and beeswax, to prevent oxi-\ndation.\n2. (Dr. Heyne.) Copper, 8 parts lead. 2 parts,\ntin, 1 part melted as before. For use the re-\nsulting alloy is remelted, and to every 3 parts\nof it 16 parts of zinc are added.\nBobierre s Metal.— This is ordinary Drass.\nconsisting of 66 parts copper and 34 parts zinc.\nBobierre introduced this alloy as especially\nsuitable for ships sheathing.\nBristol Brass.— Copper, 61 per cent.: zinc, 39\nper cent.\n1. Fine Brass.— 2 parts of copper to 1 part ot\nzinc. Remarks This is nearly 1 equivalent\neach of copper and zinc, if the equivalent of\nthe former metal be taken at 63 2 or 2 equiva-\nlents of copper to 1 equivalent of zinc, if it be\ntaken, with Liebig and Berzelius, at 31 6.\n2. Copper 4 parts, zinc 1 part. An excellent\nand very useful brass.\n3. Gold colored Brass. Syn. Red brass,\nDutch gold, tombac, similor, Prince s metal,\npinchbeck, etc.\n4. Copper and zinc, equal parts.\n5. Copper, 2 parts zinc, 1 or 1% parts. This\nis Manheim gold.\n6. Copper, 3 to o]4 parts zinc, 1 part. Deep\ncolored.\nRemarks. —The proportion of zinc in this\nalloy is altered to suit the color and other pro-\nperties to the purposes for which it is intended,\nand often varies from J to or of the weight\nof the alloy. At the celebrated works of He-\ngermuhl, near Potsdam, the proportions are\n11 parts of copper to 2 of zinc, which pro-\nBrass.— Table of Various Copper-Zinc Alloys.\nName.\nL\n2.\n3.\n4.\n5.\n6.\n7.\n8.\n9.\n.10.\n11.\n12.\n13.\n14.\n15.\n16.\n17.\n18.\n19.\n20.\n21.\n22.\n23.\n24.\n25.\n26.\n27.\n28.\n29.\n30.\n31.\n32.\n33.\nBrass, English.\nHeegermuhl\nAugsburg\nNeustadt\nRomilly\nunknown\nit tt\nStolberg.\nWatch wheels\nShip nails, bad\ngood\nTombac, English\nGerman\nCoin of Titus Claudius\n79 A. D\nHadrian, 120 A. D..\nFaustina, jun., 165 A. D\nAntique bracelet, Naumberg.\nStatue of Louis XIV\nNapoleon\nBrass for gilding\ntt\ntt\nBrass, color pale yellow\ndeep yellow\nred yellow\norange\nu copper-red\nviolet\ngreen\nAuthority.\nCopper\nZinc.\nTin.\nLead.\nIron.\ntt\n«t\nKadernatsch,\nKegnault\nChaudet.\ntt\n70-29\n70-16\n70-89\n71-36\n70-1\n715\n71-0\n6159\n65-8\n60-66\n66*06\n52-73\n63 63\n86-38\n84-0\n81 4\n83-04\n85-67\n79- 15\n83-08\n91-40\n75\n82\n64-5\n83\n78\n83-33\n84-5\n90\n98-93\n999\n98-33\n84-33\n29-26\n27 45\n27-63\n28-15\n29-9\n28-5\n27-6\n35-33\n3F8\n36-88\n3146\n41-18\n24-64\n13 61\n155\n18-6\n1584\n10-83\n6-67\n15-38\n553\n20\n155\n32*5\n15\n20\n16*69\n15-3\n96\n0-73\n6-5*\n15 02\n0-17\n079\n0-85\n28\n0 2\ntrace\n025\n025\n1-35\n1-43\n264\n1-3\n2*86\n2 15\ni-72\n8-69\n0-74\n0*88\nFaisst\ntrace\nPhillips\ntt\ntt\ntt\ntt\ntt\ntt\nKonig\n05\n114\n4-97\n1-54\n1-7\n3\n25\n25\n3\no\n1-73\n9-18\n074\n023\n137\n2\n«t\ntt\ntt\ntt\n•t\ntrace\ntt\n0-08\ntrace\n0*3","height":"4296","width":"2600","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0019.jp2"},"20":{"fulltext":"Alloys.\nAlloys.\nSome Varieties of Modern Brass.\nName.\nColor.\nCopper\nZinc.\nTin.\nLead.\nIron.\nGold.\n1. Jewelers gilding alloy\nRed\n94\n90-5\n88 8\n90\n90*70\n97\n82-54\n84\n80\n76\n72-8\n70\n75\n67\n66*6\n66\n62\n60\n60\n64\n60\n71-9\n64-5\n71\n55-5\n57\n50\n53\n34\n12 5\n6\n7-9\n11-2\n10\n8-33\n2\n17-46\n16\n20\n24\n27\n30\n25\n33\n33-3\n34\n38\n40\n38*5\n36\n38-2\n24-9\n32-5\n24\n42\n43\n50\n47\n66\n87-5\n2.\nit\nReddish yellow...\nGold\n1-6\n3. Pinchbeck\n4. Oreide (French gold)\n5. Talmi gold\n097\n6. Tissier s metal with one per cent,\nof arsenic\nRed\ntt\n7. Tournay 8 alloy\n8. Rich sheet brass\n9. Bath metal, similor, etc\n10. Dutch alloy\nit\n11. Bristol sheet brass\nBright yellow.\nYellow\n0-3\n12. Brass wire\n13. Prince s metal\n14. Sheet and wire brass\nit\ntt\nIk\ntt\nIt\ntt\nFull yellow\n16. Bobierre 9 metal\n17. Muntz metal\n18.\n19. Gedge s metal\n1-5\n20. Common brass\n21. Aich s metal\n1-8\n22. French brass (Potin jaune)\n23. Hamilton s metal, chrysorin\n24. French brass for fine castings.\n1-2\n0-3\n3\n3-0\n2*7\n3\n2-5\n26. Hard solder for copper or iron.\n27. brass....\n28. Dipping brass\n29. White brass\n30. Lap alloy\nduces a metal which is afterward rolled into\nsheets for the purpose of making Dutch leaf-\ngold.\nBrass, Button.— 1. (Best.) Copper, 8 parts;\nzinc, 5 parts, as above.\n2. (Common.) Copper, 50 parts; zinc, 40 parts;\ntin, 4 parts lead, 6 parts.\n3. Copper, 129 parts zinc, 201 parts.\nBest Bed Brass, for Fine Castings.— Copper,\n24 lb.; zinc, 5 lb.; bismuth, 1 oz. Put in the bis-\nmuth last, before pouring off.\nHard Brass, for Casting.— 25 parts copper, 3\nzinc, 4*5 tin.\nBrasses, Machine.\nEccentric rings.\ntt n\nPumps\nKingston valve...\nCocks and glands.\nPaddle wheel pins.\nSluice cock way...\nPropeller blades\nand boxes 157\nHydraulic pumps. [81\nPropeller shaft\nliner 80\nWhite metal bush\nfor propeller\nCog wheels\nSteam whistles.\nStuffing boxes\nMechanical instru-\nments 82\nPiston rings 84\nStevenson s sock-\net alloy\nSterro metal for\n19\n■ft\nd\no\nH\no\n90\n7-7\n66\n15-5\n84\n7\n34\n50\n84-2\n10-5\n81\n3\n76-8\n81\n17-4\npumps\nValve balls\n14\n5-4\n26\n17*\n11\n13\n2-9\n31\n6\n12\n23\n18-5\n9\n16\n5-3\n13\n5-8\n19\n29\n19\n14-6\n69\n9\n3\n3\n5\n8-3\n19\n22-5\n4*8\n31\nus\nIron\n16-5\nAntimony\nCopper\nTin\nSpelter\nOld metal.\nco\nco\na\nt*\npq\nbe\nd\n03\nPQ\nCO\nft\na\n3\nft\nd\nCD\nO\nO\nm\ncl\na\no\nto\nbe\na\nCO\na\nft\n1\nft\n56\n45\n28\n70\n112\n14\n7\n56\n40\nd\nS? CO\nEg\n©PQ\n■3-d\n£•2\nO 03\nft\n16\n4\n8\n84\nCO\n+3\nbe\nC\nbe\na\nCO\nbe\na\n.a\nC\nOQ\n03\npq\n03\npq\nc3\npq\na\n*8\n©M\nft\n03\n03\n03\nO\ns\nu\nw\nw\nft\n16\n16\n16\n56\nm\n3\n2-3\n6\n13\n32\n50\nHydraulic Pumps.\nIngot copper 14 lb.\nZinc 1H\nYellowbrass 3H\nOr spelter 1%\nWliite Metal Bush for Propeller Shaft.\nIngot copper 6 lb.\nTiS 84\nSpelter 32","height":"4311","width":"2624","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0020.jp2"},"21":{"fulltext":"Alloys.\nAlloys*\nThe following 1 tables represent the mixtures\nemployed by a large engineering firm, using\nscrap and new metal\nCO\nCO\nft\nS\nCO\n03\n03\na\nG\nP4\nft\na\n-a\nM\nu\n6c\nG\n2\n+3\ne3\nO\nCO\no\nB\n0Q\n38\n38\n38\n38\n38\nSpelter\n1\n1\n4\n6\n9\n1^\n53\nTin\ni\n54\n4\n57\n3\n55\n53\nSee, also, Bearings, above.\nRolled Brass.— 32 copper, 10 zinc, 1-5 tin.\nSheet Brass, Compositions of.\nCopper.\n92*7\n91-6\n90\n85 5\n83\n79 5\n76\n75\n73 5\n7D\n68\n67\n66\n65\nZinc.\n4 6\n8-4\n10\n14-5\n17\n20\n24\n25\n26-2\n30\n32\n32\n34\n35\nTin.\n2 7\nLead.\n0-3\n0-5\nBrass for Solder .—Syn. Hard Solder.. 1. 12\nparts of brass, 6 parts of zinc, and 1 of tin,\nmelted together.\n2. 2 parts of brass and 1 of zinc.\n3. (Very strong.) 3 parts of brass and 1 of\nzinc.\nBrass, Turner s.— 98 parts of brass and 2 of\nlead. Remarks. The addition of lead im-\nproves the brass for the use of the turner, but\nlessens its malleability.\nRed Brass, for Turning.— Copper, 24 lbs.; zinc,\n5 lbs.; lead, 8 oz. Put in the lead last, before\npouring off.\nRed Brass, free, for Turning.— Copper, 160\nlbs.; zinc, 50 lbs.; lead, 10 lbs.; antimony, 44 oz.\nBrass, for Turning.— Copper, 32 lbs.; zinc, 10\nlbs.; lead, 1 lb.\nYellow Brass, for Turning.— (Common arti-\ncle.) Copper, 20 lbs.; zinc, 10 lbs.; lead, 1 to 5\noz. Put in the lead last, before pouring off.\nWhite Brass.— Below I give proportions for\nvarious white brasses, as they are called. They\ncan all be melted on a good hot fire; but a coke\nstove, in which you could get a slight blast,\nw r ould be better still.\n1\n2 3 4 5 6\n7\n8\n42*5 37-5\nSi\n82 42-5\nTin\n37-5 66-7 90\n85\nAntimony...\n20\n11 15 25 111 7\n10\n16\nCopper\n...10\n7 222 3\n5\nOrdinary brass can, I have heard, be melted\nover an ordinary open fire but I have never\nmelted it so myself.\nBrass for Wire.— For wire, an alloy of 72\nparts copper, 28 zinc, is commonly used; this\nalloy must be afterward hardened by temper-\ning.\nYellow Brass.— 30 parts of zinc and 70 of cop-\nper in small pieces.\nBritannia Metal.—\n1. Best Britannia, for Spouts.-Tin, 140 lbs.;\ncopper, 3 lbs.; antimony, 6 lbs.\n2. Best Britannia, for Spoons.— Tin, 100 lbs.;\nhardening, 5 lbs.; antimony, 10 lbs.\n3. Best Britannia, for Handles.— Tin, 140 lbs.;\ncopper, 2 lbs.; antimony, 5 lbs.\n4. Best Britannia, for Lamps, Pillars, and\nSpouts.-Tin, 300 lbs.; copper 4 lbs.; antimony,\n5. Britannia, for Casting.— Tin, 100 lbs.; hard-\nening, 5 lbs.; antimony, 5 lbs.\n6. Good Britannia Metal.— Tin, 150 lbs.; cop-\nper, 3 lbs.; antimony, 10 lbs.\n7. Britannia Metal, Second Quality.— Tin, 140\nlbs.; copper, 3 lbs.; antimony, 9 lbs.\n8. Britannia Metal, for Casting. —Tin, 210\nlbs.; copper, 4 lbs.; antimony, 12 lbs.\n9. Britannia Metal, for Spinning.— Tin, 100\nlbs.; Britannia hardening, 4 lbs.; antimony,\n4 lbs.\n10. Britannia Metal, for Registers.— Tin, 100\nlbs.; hardening, 8 lbs.; antimony, 8 lbs.\n11. Hardening for Britannia.— (To be mixed\nseparately from the other ingredients.) Cop-\nper, 2 lbs.; tin, lib. Workshop Receipts.\nBritannia Metal. Syn. Tutania.— A fine spe-\ncies of pewter.\nPrep.— 1. Melt together equal parts of plate\nbrass, bismuth, antimony, and tin and add the\nmixture at discretion to melted tin, until it\nacquires the proper degree of color and hard-\nness.\n2. To the last add an equal part or 1-4 of its\nweight of metallic arsenic. To be used as be-\nfore.\n3. Melt together 1 part of antimony, 4 parts\nof brass, and 5 or more parts of tin. This may\nbe used at once, as Britannia metal. Cooley.\nBronze.— A metallic alloy, composed princi-\npally of tin and copper, remarkable for the\nexactness of the impressions which it takes by\nmoulding, as well as its durability and hence,\nextensively employed in the casting of busts,\nmedals, and statues. Bell, cannon, and specu-\nlum metal are varieties of bronze. In ancient\ntimes, when the manufacture of steel was ill\nunderstood, cutting instruments were fre-\nquently made of this alloy. For statuary\nwork, the great desideratum is to obtain an\nalloy capable of flowing freely into the most\nminute outlines of the mould, hard, and yet\ntough, and capable of resisting the corroding\naction of the weather. It must also acquire\nthat peculiar antique green appearance that\nis so much admired in bronzes.\nWhen only a small quantity of the alloy is\nrequired, it is prepared in crucibles, but for\nstatues or larger works, on reverberatory\nhearths. The fusion of the mixed metals must\nbe conducted under pounded charcoal, and as\nrapidly as possible. When melted, it must be\nfrequently stirred together to produce a per-\nfect mixture, before casting. Coal is the fuel\nprincipally employed for the furnaces.\nBismuth Bronze— Tin, 16 parts; bismuth, 1 to\n3 parts.\nFontainemoreaiCs Bronzes.—\nZinc.\n90\n91\n92\n92\n97\n97\nper.\nCast Iron.\nLead,\n8\n1\n1\n8\n1\n8\n7\n1\n2V6\nV2\n3\nH\n1\n99\nBronze Metal.— 1. Copper, 7 lbs.; zinc, 3 lbs;\ntin, 2 lbs. 2. Copper, 1 lb.; zinc, 12 lbs.; tin,\n8 lbs.\nBronze, for Mortars.— Copper, 93 parts lead, 5\nparts tin, 2 parts. The edges and lips of mor-\ntars must be tempered by heating them to a\ncherry red, and then plunging them into cold\nwater as unless so treated, they are very apt\nto be broken.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0021.jp2"},"22":{"fulltext":"Alloys.\n10\nAlloys.\nSimple Bronzes.— Proportions and Results.\nu\no\nP.\no\no\nH\nColor.\nDescription.\nlb. oz.\n1\n0-5\nReddish yellow.\nAncient nails.\n1\n10\n14 44\nSoft gun bronze.\n1\n1*3\nFor mathematical in-\nstruments.\n1\n15\nit it\nFor toothed wheels.\n1\n2-0\nYellow red.\nOrdnance.\n1\n23\nbb ki\nHard weapon and tool\nbronze.\n1\n2-5\nu\nHard machinery bear-\ning bronze.\n3-0\nBluish red.\nSoft, for musical bells.\n1\n35\n44 44\n4 gongs.\n1\n4-0\nAsh gray.\nhouse bells.\n1\n4*5\n44 4\nlarger bells.\n1\n5-0\nDark gray.\nthe largest\nbells.\n1\n7 0\nWhitish.\nAncient mirroi*s.\n1\n8-0\nWhiter.\nSpeculum bronze.\n1\n32-0\nWhiter still.\nPewterers temper.\nBronze for Statuary.— 1. Copper, 88 parts;\ntin, 9 parts zinc, 2 parts lead, 1 part. 2. Cop-\nper, 883^ parts; tin, 5 parts; zinc, 10^ parts;\nlead, 2 parts. 3. Copper, 90 parts; tin, 9 parts;\nlead, 1 part. 4. Copper, 91 parts tin, 9 parts.\nFor Medals.— 1. Copper, 89 parts tin, 8 parts;\nzinc, 3 parts. 2. Copper, 95 parts tin, 5 parts.\nFor Cutting Instruments.— Copper, 100 parts;\ntin, It parts.\nFor Ornaments.— 1. Copper, 82 parts; tin, 3\nparts; zinc, 18 parts; and lead, 2 parts. 2. Cop-\nper, 83 parts zinc, 17 parts tin, 1 part lead,\nY part.\nBullet Metal.— 98 lead to 2 arsenic. For round\nshot the fused metal is dropped from a high\nelevation in a shot tower into a basin of water\nor thrown down a stack of limited height, in\nwhich a strong draught of air is produced by a\nblower.\nAlloys for Calico-printing Boilers and. Scra-\npers.— For this purpose a metal is required that\nis sufficiently soft to be worked by tools and\nhard enough to resist the wear to which it is\nsubjected in practice. Another important de-\nsideratum is that the metals should be capable\nof resisting the corrosive action of the liquids\nwith which they are in contact. Hauvel con-\nsiders a bronze having the following composi-\ntion the best material for the rollers copper,\n84; tin, 14; zinc, 2. Another alloy which is used\nconsists of zinc, 78*5 tin, 15 8 copper, 5*6. The\nfollowing are analyses by Depierre and Spiral\nof the scrapers employed to remove the sur-\nplus color from the rollers\nCopper.\nFrench scrapers. .78 75\nEnglish ..80-50\nGerman ..85-30\nCalin.— The lining to tea chests is called calin.\nIt is composed of 50 to 60 parts of lead 8 parts\nof tin y% of copper, and a small percentage\nof zinc.\nChrysocale.—9 copper, 8 zinc, 2 lead.\nClark s Patent Alloy.— Copper, 75 parts; nickel,\n14*5 parts; zinc, 7 5 parts; tin, 1 5 parts; cobalt,\n1*5 parts.\nCliche Metal.— This useful alloy is composed\nas follows Tin, 48 parts lead, 32 parts anti-\nmony, 10 parts; bismuth, 9 parts,\nCock M etal.— Copper, 20 lbs.; lead, 8 lbs.; lith-\narge, 1 oz.; antimony, 3 oz.\nCooper^s Pen Metal.— See Platinum and Cop-\nper alloys.\nCopper Alloy.— The following alloy of copper\nwill attach itself firmly to surfaces of metal,\nglass, or porcelain: 20 to 30 parts finely blended\ncopper (made by reduction of oxide of copper\nZinc.\nTin.\n1250\n8-75\n11-50\n8-00\n9-80\n4-90\nwith hydrogen or precipitation from solution\nof its sulphate wifh zinc) are made into a paste\nwith oil of vitriol. To this add 70 parts mer-\ncury and triturate well; then wash out the\nacid with boiling water and allow the compound\nto cool. In ten or twelve hours, it becomes\nsufficiently hard to receive a brilliant polish\nand to scratch the surface of tin or gold.\nWhen heated it becomes plastic, but does not\ncontract on cooling.\nBlanched Copper. -Fuse 8 oz. of copper and\ny z, oz. of neutral arsenical salt, with a flux\nmade of calcined borax, charcoal dust, and\npowdered glass.\nChinese White Copper. Copper, 40 parts\nnickel, 32 parts zinc, 25 parts iron, 3 parts.\nAlloy for Cymbals and Gongs.— W0 parts of\ncopper with about 25 of tin. To give this com-\npound the sonorous property in the highest de-\ngree, the piece should be ignited after it is\ncast, and then plunged immediately into cold\nwater.\nDelatoVs Alloy.— Copper,F0 parts; manganese*\n2 parts 18 parts of zinc and 1 part of calcium\nphosphate. It is rather difficult to prepare.\nRemove the scoria and add the zinc just before\ncasting.\nDelta Metal. Alexander Dick has succeeded\nin producing a new copper-zinc alloy which\nexhibits characteristics essentially superior to\nordinary brass. The advantages claimed for\nthe new alloy, which has been named delta,\nmetal, are great strength and toughness, and\na capacity for being rolled, forged and drawn.\nIt can be made as hard as mild steel, and when\nmelted is very liquid, producing sound cast-\nings of close, fine grain. The color can be\nvaried from that of yellow brass to rich gun\nmetal the surface takes a fine polish, and\nwhen exposed to the air, tarnishes less than\nbrasa. The latter characteristics will meet with\nready appreciation for cabinet work, harness\nfitting, etc. The metal when cast in sand has a\nbreaking strain of 21 to 22 tons per square inch;\nwhen rolled or forged hot into rods, the break-\ning strain is 43 tons per square inch and when\ndrawn into wire of 22 B. W. G., of 67 tons per\nsquare inch.\nThe following is an analysis of a specimen of\ndelta metal: Copper, 55*90 per cent; lead,0 70 per\ncent.; iron, 0 85 per cent.; manganese, 0*80 per\ncent.; zinc,41*60 per cent.; nickel, a trace; phos-\nphorus, 0*012 or 0-013.\nDental Allays.—\nA. B.\nTin 91-63 36*78 parts.\nSilver 3*82 48*32\nCopper 4 4\nGold 14-72\nMercury\nDental Plates, Alloy for. (Conway.) Bismuth,\ntin and lead are purified by separately melting\nand pour upon clean marble slabs, until all\ndross is removed, and afterward melting and\npouring into lemon juice. The alloy is com-\nposed of platinum, gold, silver, bismuth, tin\nand lead. Science Record, 1875.\nDvsiot.—A bearing metal. It is composed of\n60 or 62 parts of copper 18 parts of lead and\n10 parts each of tin and zinc.\nElectrum.— Nickel, 8 parts copper, 16 parts\nsine, 7 parts.\nEnglish Metal.— 88 tin, 2 pure copper, 2 brass\n(containing 75 copper, 25 zinc), 2 nickel, 1 bis-\nmuth, 8 antimony, 2 tungsten.\nFahlun Brilliants. Tin, 60 parts; lead, 40\nparts.\nFenton l s Metal.— See Alloys.— White Metal.\nFerro-manganese is a variety of metal spe-\ncially manufactured in a blast furnace from\nores rich in oxide of manganese, and is very\nextensively used in the manufacture of mild\nsteel. When the pig iron contains less than\nabout 20 per cent, manganese, its fracture\nshows large crystalline cleavage planes and it is\nthen termed spiegeleisen. The variety known\nas ferro-manganese is a hard, crystalline body,","height":"4311","width":"2624","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0022.jp2"},"23":{"fulltext":"Alloys.\n11\nAlloys.\nbut the fractured surface does not present the\nlarge cleavage planes so characteristic of spie-\ngeleisen. It contains from 20 to 85 per cent\nmanganese.\nFeuille Morte (dead leaf 700 gold, 300 silver.\nFusible Metals. Under the name fusible\nmetal or fusible alloy is understood a mixture\nof metals which becomes liquid at tempera-\ntures at or below the boiling point of water.\nThere are several such mixtures known, some\nof which JS etc Remedies ha 3 gathered from one\nsource and another, and placed in convenient\norder, as follows\n1. D Arcet s: Bismuth, 8; lead, 5 tin, 3 parts.\nThis melts below 212° F.\n2. Walker s: Bismuth, 8; tin, 4; lead, 5 parts;\nantimony, 1 part. The metals should be re-\npeatedly melted and poured into drops until\nthey can be well mixed, previous to fusing them\ntogether.\n3. Onion s Lead, 3 tin, 2 bismuth, 5 parts.\nMelts at 197° F.\n4. If to the latter, after removing it from\nthe fire, one part of warm quicksilver be added,\nit will remain liquid at 170° F., and become a\nfirm solid only at 140° F.\n5. Another: Bismuth, 2; lead. 5; tin, 3 parts.\nMelts in boiling water.\nNos. 1, 2, 3, and 5 are used to make toy spoons\nto surprise children by their melting in hot\nliquors. A little mercury (as in 4) may be added\nto lower their melting points. Nos. 1 and 2 are\nspecially adapted for making electrotype\nmoulds. French cliche moulds are made with\nthe alloy No. 2. These alloys are also used to\nform pencils for writing, also as metal baths in\nthe laboratory, or for soft soldering joints.\nNo. 4 is also used for anatomical injections.\nHigher temperatures, for metal baths in la-\nboratories, may be obtained by the following\nmixtures\n1 part tin and 2 parts lead melt at 441*5° F. 1\npart tin and 1 part lead melt at 371*7° F. 2\nparts tin and 1 part .lead melt at 340° F. 63\nparts tin and 37 parts lead melt at 344*7° F.\nFusible Alloys containing Cadmium.— Cadmi-\num, like bismuth, has the valuable property of\nlowering the melting point of many alloys,\nsome of which are readily fusible in boiling\nwater. Cadmium does not render the alloys so\ncrystalline and brittle as bismuth, many of its\ncombinations being capable of being hammered\nand rolled. The chief use of cadmium is in\nfusible alloys, which are used as solders, for\ncastings requiring a low temperature, and in\ndentistry for alloys for stopping hollow teeth.\nAlloys of cadmium generally contain tin, lead,\nbismuth, and cadmium. Mercury is some-\ntimes added to still further lower the melting-\npoint. The following table shows the compo-\nsition and melting points of the more import-\nant cadmium alloys\nLipowitz s alloy\nFusible alloy..\nWood s alloy\nFusible alloy\nType metal\n*G\nr.\n3\n2\nin\n1\n1\n1\n1\n22]^\n8\n4\n15\n11\n3\n16\n8\n3\n8\no\n3\n3\no\n1\no\n2\n1\n4\n4\n2\n5\n2\n4\n50\n36\n158° F.\n170°\n167°\n203°\n203°\n203°\n150°\n160°\n187°\nTaUe of Fusible Allr\nvys.\nfr\n*~j\nw\n+3\nw\no\no\no\ncj\nSh\nr\nf—*\nu\nw\nu\nfe£\n■J.\no\na\nb£\no\n—1\n-W\nri\np\ntl\nH\nO\n8\no\n3\n2U2\n8\n16\n24\n316\n8\n6\n3\n208\n8\n18\n24\n312\n8\n8\n3\n226\n8.\n20\n24\n310\n8\n8\n4\n236\n8\n22\n24\n8\n8\n6\n243\n8\n24\n24\n310\n8\n8\n8\n254 i\n8\n26\n24\n320\n8\n10\n8\n260\n8\n28\n24\n330\n8\n12\n8\n270\ni 8\n30\n24\n342\n8\n16\n8\n300\n8\n32\n24\n352\n8\n16\n16\n304\n8\n82\n28\n332\n8\n16\n12\n2g0\n8\n32\n30\n328\n8\n16\n14\n290\n8\nS2\n32\n320\n8\n16\n16\n292\n8\n32\n34\n318\n8\n16\n18\n298\n8\nrs2\n36\n320\n8\n16\n20\n304\n8\n32\n38\n322\n8\n16\n22\n312\n8\n32\n40\n324\nFusible Metals for Use in Boilers, etc.— The\nfollowing alloys, witn their corresponding\nmelting points, together with the temperature\nof steam at various pressures, may be used.\nTin\n6\nLead 1\n381°\n1\n378°\n4\n1\n365°\n3\n1\n356°\n9\n1\n340°\nIV?,\n1\n334°\n4\n4 Bismuth 1\n320\n3\nit\n3\n1\nMO*\n2\ntt\n2\n1\n292°\n1\nIt\n1\n1\n254°\n2\nIt\no\n1\n3\n3\n1\n4\ntt\n4\n1\n6\n1\n5\n1\n4\n1\n3\n1\n2\ntt\n1\nVA\ntt\n1\n1\nit\n1\n1\no\n1\n3\n1\n1\n10\n1\ntt\n25\no o\na\ncS\nO to 53\na\n-Sob\no\nF. to fc\nH\ntt\n1C0 lb.\n350°\n105 lb.\n341°\n901b.\n331°\n751b.\n320°\n601b.\n307°\n451b.\n282°\n301b.\n274°\n151b.\n250°\n292°\n310°\n320°\n381°\n378°\n365°\n356°\n340°\n334°\n370°\n441°\n482°\n511°\n541°\n558°\nF.\nSo much depends, however, on the way in\nwhich an alloy is made, the purity of its ori-\nginal metals, and the changing conditions to\nwhich a fusible plug is subjected, that it is\nvery doubtful whether they should ever be\ndepended upon in critical places.\nFusible Alloy, for silvering glass.— Tin, 6 oz.:\nlead, 10 oz.; bismuth, 21 oz.; mercury, a small\nquantity.\nGerman Silver.- Albata, Argentan, Electrum,\nNickel Silver, Tutenag, Virginian Plate, White\nCopper. A well known alloy, the finer varie-\nties of which nearly equal silver in whiteness\nand susceptibility of receiving a high polish,\nwhile they surpass it in hardness and dur-\nability. The following f ormulas are from the\nhighest authorities\n1. Copper, 50 parts nickel, 20 parts; zinc, 30\nparts. Very malleable and takes a high polish.\n2. Copper, 50 parts nickel, 26 parts zinc, 24\nparts. Closely resembles silver an excellent\nsample.\n3. Copper and zinc, of each 41 parts nickel,\n18 parts. Bather brittle.\n4. (M. Gersdorff.) Copper, 50 parts; nickel\nand zinc, of each, 25 parts. Very white and\nmalleable, and takes a high polish. Becom-\nmended as a general substitute for silver.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0023.jp2"},"24":{"fulltext":"Alloys.\n12\nAlloys.\n5. (Gersdorff.) Copper, 60 parts nickel and\nzinc, of each, 20 parts. For castings, as bells,\ncandlesticks, etc.\n6. (Gersdorff.) Copper, 60 parts nickel, 25\nparts; zinc, 20 parts. For rolling- and wire.\nVery tough and malleable.\n7. (Sample made from the ore of Hillburg-\nhausen.) Copper, ^,0^ parts nickel, 31^ parts\niron, 2^ parts; zinc, 253^ parts. Equal to the\nbest Chinese sample.\n8. (Pelouze.) Copper and nickel, equal parts.\nRecommended by M. Pelouze as superior to\nany of the alloys containing zinc.\n9. (Pelouze.) Copper, 2 parts nickel, 1 part.\nNot so white as the last, but more malleable.\n10. (White copper from China.) 1. Copper,\n30 parts; nickel, 36 parts; zinc, 34 parts. 2.\n(Said to be prepared from native ore.) Copper,\n41 parts nickel, 32 parts iron, 2^ parts zinc,\n24j£ parts. Silvery white, takes a high polish,\nvery sonorous, malleable both cold and at a\ndull red heat, and may be rolled into leaves or\nformed into wire.\n11. (White metal spoon sold as German plate.)\nCopper, 55 parts; nickel, 24 parts; zinc, 16\nparts; tin, 3 parts iron, 2 parts.\nThe union of the metals in the above for-\nmulae is effected by heat, with the usual pre-\ncautions. When iron is ordered it is generally\nadded under the form of tin plate.\n12. For fine German silver. Copper, 49 parts\nzinc, 24 parts nickel, 24 parts aluminum, 2J-2\nparts. All by weight. There are alloys of\nmany other proportions that are recognized as\nstandard.\n13. First quality for casting. Copper, 501b.;\nzinc, 25 lb.; nickel, 25 lb.\n14. Second quality for casting. Copper, 50\nlb zinc, 20 lb.; nickel (best pulverized), 10\nlb.\n15. For rolling.— Copper, 60 lb.; zinc 20 lb. J\nnickel, 25 lb. Used for spoons, forks and\ntable ware.\n16. Fleck s German Silver.— 53*39 parts copper,\n17 4 nickel, 13 zinc.\nGcrsnein s Alloy.— -25 to 35 parts precipitated\ncopper are ground with strong sulphuric acid\nin a porcelain mortar, and then 65 to 70 parts\nby weight of mercury are gradually added.\nWhen the copper is well amalgamated wash\nwell in boiling water. When required for use\nmake it soft and plastic by heating to 375°\nC. and grinding in a mortar until soft.\nGilding Metals.— 4 copper, 1 brass (containing\n3 copper, 1 zinc;, and 70 tin for each 80 copper.\nGlass Moulds, alloy for casting.— Iron, 100\nparts; nickel, 15 parts.\nGold,Alloxjs and Preparations of.— Gold Dutch,\nMannheim Gold, Mosaic Gold, Ormolu, Pinch-\nbeck,Prince s Metal, Red Brass Similor,Tombac.\nThese names are applied to several varieties of\nfine gold-colored brass, differing slightly in\ntint, and in the proportions of copper and\nzinc. At the celebrated works of Hegermiihl,\nnear Potsdam, the proportions, copper 11 parts\nto zinc 2 parts, are employed to produce a\nmetal which is afterward rolled into sheets\nfor the purpose of making Dutch leaf gold.\nThis alloy has a very rich, deep gold color. Its\nmalleability is so remarkable that it may be\nbeaten out into leaves not exceeding g 2 ?b?5\ninch in thickness.\nGold, Weighing of.— Since the introduction of\nthe decimal system, the method of expressing\nthe fineness of gold alloys in thousandths has\nbeen gradually gaining ground. Its simplicity,\nover the old system of carats and grains, is its\ngreat recommendation. The carat consists\nof 4 carat-grains. The f ollowing table shows\nthe equivalents of carat.grains and carats in\nl, ousandths\n1 grain\n10-414\n11 carats\n458-630\n2\n20-828\n12\n500-000\n3\n31-242\n13\nit\n541-667\n4\n41-660\n14\n14\n583-333\n1 carat\n41-667\n15\n624-555\n2\n83-334\n16\n44\n666-667\n3\n125 001\n17\n11\n707*333\n4\n166-667\n18\n44\n750-000\n5\n208-333\n19\n44\n791-666\n6\n250*000\n20\nIt\n833-333\nr 44\ni\n291-666\n21\n44\n874-999\n8\n333-333\n22\n(I\n916*666\n9\n374-999\n23\n44\n958-333\nL0\n416-667\n24\n11\nlOOLTOOO\nColored Golds.— Jewelers and goldsmiths use\na variety of gold alloys for purposes of orna-\nmentation, so as to produce a number of dif-\nferent shades of color in the same article. For\nexample, red and white are employed for flow-\ners, green for leaves, and yellow for stems,\nsprays, etc. The following table gives the com-\nposition per cent, of alloys most in use:\nColor.\nO\no\ns\no\na\no\nM\na\n3\ns\na\na\no\nWhite\n100\nn.\n100\nit\n85-7\n83-3\n72-5\n75\n75\n74-6\n75\n91-67\n91-67\n50\n100\n90\n53\n75\n50\n25\n75\n66-7\nItolO\n8-6\n5-7\n16 7\n4i\n27 5\n25\n16-6\n114\n125\n8-33\nGreen\n44\n8*4\n44\n9-7\n43\n44\nPale yellow\n44 44\n8-33\n12-5\nVery pale...\nYellow..\n50\nDeep yellow\n44 44\n25\n10\n22\n25\n50\n75\nRed\nDark red\n44 44\nBlue\n25\n33*3\n44\nJapan e se\nblue gold\n99 to 90\nGold Alloy.— 1. 800 parts of copper, 28 of plati-\nnum, and 20 of tungstic acid are melted in a\ncrucible under a flux, and the melted mass\npoured out into alkaline water, so as to granu-\nlate it. It is then melted together with 170\nparts of gold.\n2. The alloy has about the color of 9 carat\ngold.\nSilver 248\nPlatinum..,. 3202\nCopper (by difference)\n65-50\n100-00\nStrong boiling nitric acid has apparently no\naction on it, even when left in the acid for some\ntime.— Cliem. News.\n3. To make green gold, melt together 19 grs.\npure gold and 5 grs. pure silver. The metal\nthus prepared has a beautiful green shade.\n4. The following recipes for metals resem-\nbling gold are said to produce a metal which\nwill so nearly approximate the genuine as to\nalmost defy detection without a resort to tho-\nrough tests Fuse, together with saltpeter, sal\nammoniac, and powdered charcoal, 4 parts\nplatinum, 2^ parts pure copper, 1 part pure\nzinc, 2 parts block tin, and V/% parts pure lead.\nAnother good receipt calls for 2 parts plati-\nnum, 1 part silver, and 3 parts copper.\n5. The Western Jcivdcr gives the following\nformula","height":"4311","width":"2624","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0024.jp2"},"25":{"fulltext":"Alloys.\n13\nAlloys.\nTake 100 parts (by weight) of pure copper, 14\nparts zinc or tin, 6 parts magnesia, 56 parts sal\nammoniac, 18 parts quicklime, 9 parts cream of\ntartar. Melt the copper, and add gradually\nthe magnesia, sal ammoniac, quicklime, and\ncream of tartar, each by itself, in the form of\npowder. Stir the whole for half an hour, add\nthe zinc or tin in small pieces, and stir again\ntill the whole is melted. Cover the crucible,\nand keep the mixture in a molten condition\nfor thirty-five minutes. Remove the dross,\nand pour the metal into moulds. It has a fine\ngrain, is malleable, and does not easily tarnish.\n6. Pure copper, 100 parts; zinc, or preferably\ntin, 17 parts; magnesia, 6 parts; sal ammoniac,3 6\nparts; quicklime, 1 8 parts; cream of tartar,\n9 parts. The copper is first melted, then the\nmagnesia, sal ammoniac, lime, and tartar are\nthen added, separately and by degrees, in the\nform of powder; the whole is now briskly\nstirred for about half an hour, so as to mix\nthoroughly and then the zinc is added in small\ngrains by throwing it on the surface and stir-\nring till it is entirely fused; the crucible is\nthen covered, and the fusion maintained for\nabout thirty-live minutes. The surface is then\nskimmed and the alloy is ready for casting. It\nhas a fine grain, is malleable, and takes a splen-\ndid polish. Does not corrode readily, and for\nmany purposes is an excellent substitute for\ngold. When tarnished, its brilliancy can be re-\nstored by a little acidulated water.\nBlue Gold.— 750 gold, 250 iron; prepared by\ndipping iron wire into molten gold, then cast-\ning, hammering, and passing through a draw\nplate.\nAlloy for Gold Chains.— 1. Fine gold, 11 dwts.\n6 grs.; fine silver, 2 dwts. 5 grs.; fine copper, 6\ndwts. 13 grs.\n2. Fine gold 1 oz.; fine silver, 9 dwts.; fine\ncopper, 8 dwts.\nAlloys, Enameling Gold.— I. Fine gold, 1 oz.;\nfine silver, 1 dwt. 12 grs.; fine copper, 2 dwts. 12\ngrs.\n2. Fine gold, 1 oz.; fine silver, 9 dwts. 12 grs.;\nfine copper, 7 dwts. 12 grs.\nGold, Factitious.— Copper, 16 parts; platinum,\n7 parts; zinc, 1 part, fused together. This alloy\nresembles in color gold of 16 carats fine, or two-\nthirds, and will resist the action of nitric acid,\nunless very concentrated and boiling.\nFine Gold— Tod gold, 250 silver.\nGold, Grain, Cupelled.— Gold, 1 part; silver,\n3 parts melted together, and poured in a small\nstream into water, the silver being afterward\ndissolved out by digestion in boiling nitric acid,\nand the grains, after being well washed in wa-\nter, heated to redness in a crucible or cupel.\nUsed to make preparations of gold.\nJewelry Gold.— 38 85 gold, 5*7 silver, 1Q-20 cop-\nper.\nGold, Jewelers This term is applied to alloys\nof gold used for trinkets and inferior articles\nof jewelry, ranging from 3 or 4 carats fine up-\nward. The lowest alloy of this class is formed\nof copper, 16 parts silver, 1 to 1% parts gold,\n2 to 3 parts, melted together.\nMannheim Gold, Similor, Prince s Metal.— The\ncomposition of this alloy varies considerably,\nas will be seen from the following analyses of\nthree samples\nCopper. 83*1 88 9 75\nZinc 10-0 10-3 25\nTin... 6*9 0*8\nThe first has a yellowish red tint and the\nsecond one a deeper red. Similor has been\nmuch used for buttons and other stamped\nwork requiring a reddish cast of color.\nMock Gold.— I. 16 copper, 7 platinum, 1 zinc.\n2. 100 copper, 17 tin, 6 magnesia, 3 6 sal ammo-\nniac, 1 8 quicklime, 9 bitartrate of potash. The\ncopper is melted first, and the magnesia, am-\nmonia, lime, and potash are successively added\nin small quantities; finally the tin is intro-\nduced in fragments, and the whole fused for\nthirty-five minutes.\nNurriberg Gold.— Copper, 90 per cent.; gold,\n2-5 per cent.; aluminum, 7 5 per cent.\nBed Gold.— 750 gold, 250 copper.\nBing Gold.—id Q coin gold, 12*3 silver, 23 6 re-\nfined copper.\nWhite Gold, Electrum.— Gold whitened by\naddition of silver.\nYettoiv Gold, Antique.— Tuve gold.\nYellow Dipping. -2 bronze (containing 7 cop-\nper, 2 tin, 3 zinc), 1 copper, and 10 tin for each\n640 copper.\nGun Metal.\nEnglish ordnance\n3\no\no\n91-74\n91-80\n91-66\n90-91\n90-73\n90-09\n90-00\n90-27\n88*61\n88-93\n77-18\n93-19\nH\n8-26\n8-20\n833\n9-09\n9-27\n9-90\nio-oo\n9-73\n10-70\n10-38\n3-42\n5-43\no\nM\n6\na\nT3\nHi\ne tt\nEight-pounder guns.\nIt tt\nAmerican compressed\nAmerican compressed\nRussian ordnance (1819)\nSwiss\nit tt\n0-69\no-ii\n1-16\n1-38\n42\n5-02\n0-06\n13-22\nHeterogeneous Metal for Music Printing Plates,,\netc.— (Jean.) Tin, 10 parts zinc, 12 parts anti-\nmony regulus, 3 parts copper, 1 part lead, 74-\nparts.\nHomberg s Alloy Bismuth, lead and tin, equal\nparts.\nAlloy for Horology.— The following alloy,\nsuited for the sockets of pivots of watches,\nwas invented by Mr. Bennett. It consists of—\ngold, 31 parts silver, 19 copper, 39 and pal-\nladium, 11. He states that this alloy melts at\na lower temperature than gold, and is harder\nthan hammered iron. It has a reddish-brown\ncolor, is as fine-grained as steel, and works as\neasily as brass, but its friction is much slighter\nthan on ordinary pivots. Its most valuable\nproperty is that the oil it absorbs is not de-\ncomposed, but remains pure in a fluid state.\nIt has still greater advantages over sockets of\nfine stone, as it is not apt to break, is suscep-\ntible of a high polish, and is less costly than\nhard stone.\nMetal for taking Impressions. 1. Lead, 3 lb.;,\ntin, 2 lb.; bismuth, 5 lb.\n2. Lead, 4^ lb. bismuth, 7^ lb.; tin, 3 lb.\nHoyle s White Alloy. See WJiite Metal.\nJacoby s Alloy. See White Metal.\nJewelers Alloys. See the following under\nalloys. Algiers Metal, Ashberry Metal, Chryso-\ncale, Dipping Metal, English Metal, Feuille\nMorte, Mock Gold, Minofor, Plate Pewter,\nQueen s Metal, Tubania, Vert d Eau, Yellow\nDipping, and the following\nCommon Jewelry. 1. 3 refined copper, 1 old\nBristol bronze, and 25 tin for every 100 copper,\nthe tin being- replaced by a compound of lead\nand antimony wlien a fine polish is needed.\n2. The f oUowing forms a fusible malleable\nmetal, easily worked by a silversmith, resisting-\noxidation, and capable of being soldei*ed 720\nparts copper, 125 nickel, 10 bismuth, 90 zinc, 20\nsoft iron, 20 tin.\n3. Sauvage has introduced the following\nalloy 58 copper, 27 zinc, 12 nickel, 2 tin, 0*5\nalumina, 0 5 bismuth; the ingredients are fused\nseparately, mixed, and the whole is run down\ninto a homogeneous mass, which is silvery,\nsonorous, malleable, ductile, tenacious, polishes\nwell and does not tarnish.\n4. As a silvery-looking alloy, Parker recom-\nmends 70 copper, 30 manganese, 20 to 35 zinc, or","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0025.jp2"},"26":{"fulltext":"Alloys.\n14\nAlloys.\nif not needing to be subjected to high tem-\nperature, 49 copper, 21 manganese, 5 to 10 iron,\n-5 to 10 zinc. The solder used for it contains 7\ncopper, 3 manganese, 1 to 2 silver.\n5. Cheap 4 carat gold. Copper, 9 parts gold,\n2 parts silver, 1 part.\nJournal Boxes, Alloy for.— Copper, 24 lb.; tin,\n24 lb.; and antimony, 8 lb. Melt the copper first,\nthen add the tin, and lastly the antimony. It\nshould be first run into ingots, then melted and\ncast in the form required for the boxes.\nKingston s Metal— See White Metal.\nKraft s Alloy.— Bismuth, 50 parts; lead, 20\nparts tin, 10 parts.\nKustitien s Metal.— Take of malleable iron,\n3 parts; beat it to whiteness, and add anti-\nmony, 1 part Molucca tin, 72 parts mix\nunder charcoal, and cool. Used to coat iron\nand other metals with a surface of tin; it\npolishes without a blue tint, is hard, and has\nthe advantage of being free from arsenic.\nLeading, Hot Alloys for.— Tin, 3 parts; lead,\n17 parts.\nLechesne.— Copper, 1,200 parts nickel, 800\nparts; aluminum, 1 part. Melt the nickel\nfirst.\nLemarquand s Alloy.— This remarkable alloy\nis said to be non-oxidizable if all of the metals\nused are strictly pure. It is composed of 150\nparts of copper 28 parts of nickel 4 parts of\ntin in sticks; 4 parts of black oxide of cobalt\nand 14 to 15 parts of zinc.\nLining Metal, for boxes of railroad cars.—\nMix tin, 24 lb.; copper, 4 lb.; antimony, 8 lb.\n(for a hardening) then add tin, 72 lb.\nLutecine or Paris Metal.— MM. Le Mat, Picard,\nand Bloch give the following proportions for\nthis alloy: Copper, 800 nickel, 160; tin, 20;\ncobalt, 10; iron, 5 zinc, 5. Total, 1,000.\nMachVs Yellow Metal is composed of 57 parts\ncopper and 43 parts zinc. It has a reddish-yel-\nlow color, malleable when rolled hot, but not\nin the cold. It is said to be suitable for fine\ncastings, as it possesses great strength.\nMaillechort.— Copper, 60 per cent.; zinc, 20 per\ncent.; nickel, 20 per cent.; Jemmapes brass—\n•copper, 64 5.\nManganese Alloys.— Cupro-manganese, 6\nparts lead, 9 parts tin, 48 parts zinc, 9 parts.\nTin, 32 parts; zinc, 7 parts lead, 7 parts\ncupro-manganese, 2 parts.\nManganese Steel.— Copper, 80 per cent.; man-\nganese, 15 per cent.; zinc, 5 per cent.\nMarley s Alloy.— This alloy is also said to be\nnon-oxidizable like Lemarquand s alloy (which\nsee) if the materials are pure* Nickel, 7 parts\niron and zinc, 2 parts each; 5 parts of brass,\nand 4 parts of tin. After casting the articles\nthey must be heated to a white heat and dip-\nped in a mixture of acids prepared as follows\nMix 12 parts of sulphuric acid, 2 parts of nitric\nacid, and 1 part of hydrochloric acid, and the\nwhole diluted with 5 parts of water. Great\ncare should be used in mixing the acids. They\nshould be added very gradually.\nMartial Regulus. 35 parts of antimony and\n5 parts of iron.\nMetal for Medals.— 50 parts copper, 4 zinc.\nMinargent. Copper 56, nickel 40, tungsten 3,\naluminum 1 per cent.\nMinofor. 3 25 copper, 67 50 tin, 17 antimony,\n8 95 zinc.\nChinese Mirrors.— Copper, 62 parts; tin, 32\nparts lead, 6 parts.\nMirrors.— Alloy of gold and platinum for\ncoating. A solution of 500 grammes of spongy\nplatinum in 100 c. c. of a mixture of equal\nparts of hydrochloric and nitric acids is evapo-\nrated to dryness, and the dry residue after\npowdering digested with 2,000 grammes of lav-\nender essence, 100 grammes of turpentine, and\n25 grammes of sulphureted turpentine resins.\nThe gold, 30 grammes, is transformed into chlo-\nride and this is dissolved in a 1,000 c. c. of a mix-\nture of equal parts of ether and water. The\nmixture is well shaken, and ethereal solution\nadded to the platinum and left to evaporate\nspontaneously. The mixture receives after-\nward a charge of 50 grammes of litharge, and\na like quantity of lead borate, and 100 gram-\nmes of lavender oil are added to it, when it\nwill be ready for coating the mirror, which has\nto be exposed to red heat until the composition\nis burnt in.— Dingler s Polytechnisches Journal.\nModels, Alloy for Making.— A good alloy for\nmaking working models is 4 parts copper, 1\npart tin, and 14 part zinc. This is easily\nwrought. Doubling the proportion of zinc in-\ncreases the hardness.\nParker s Mosaic Gold. Copper, 100 parts\nzinc, 54 parts; mix. For common jewelry\nCopper, 3 parts 1 part old brass, and 4 oz. tin\nto every pound of copper.\nMousseVs Silver Alloy.— Copper, 59 parts sil-\nver, 27 to 28 parts zinc, 9*5 nickel, 35 partis.\nMuntz Metal.— 6 parts copper; 4 parts zinc.\nCan be rolled and worked at a red heat.\nComposition Tacks for Muntz Metal on Ships.\n—Zinc, 2 parts; tin, i]4 parts; copper, 43J^\nparts.\nNeogen. Copper, 58 parts zinc, 27 parts tin,\n2 parts nickel, 12 parts bismuth, J^ part alu-\nminum, y% part.\nNiello.— This consists of nine parts silver, one\npart copper, one part lead, and one part bis-\nmuth, which are melted together, and saturat-\ned with sulphur. This mixture produces the\ngorgeous blue which has often been errone-\nously spoken of as steel blue.\nNon-Magnetic Alloy. This is used in some of\nthe Swiss watches to take the place of steel in\nthe hair springs. It is composed of equal parts\nof gold and palladium, copper about 15% of the\nwhole, and a trace of rhodium and manganese\nare added this may vary from l-10th of 1% to\n6% of each. The copper and manganese are\nfirst added.\nAnother alloy which is used to some extent\nis composed of tin, copper, iron, lead, zinc,\nnickel and manganese. The proportions vary,\nbut 60$ of copper, 20 of nickel and 18 of zinc,\nwith the other ingredients, 1% or less.\nAlloys said to be Non-oxidizahle. Lemar-\nquand s alloy is said to consist of: copper 75,\nnickel 14, cobalt 15, tin 18, and zinc 72 parts.\nThe metals must be pure. Marlie s alloy con-\nsists of iron 10, nickel 35, brass 25, tin 20, zinc\n10. Articles prepared from this alloy are made\nwhite hot, and dipped into a mixture of sul-\nphuric acid 60 parts, nitric acid 10, hydrochloric\nacid 5, and water 25.\nAn alloy used as a substitute for gold and\nsaid to be non-oxidizable was found by the au-\nthor to contain copper 94*8, zinc 2 8, lead 0*67\nand iron P34 per cent. The inventor recom-\nmends to dip the articles in dilute nitric acid,\nthen to swill and dry, then to polish; and claims\nthat they will keep their color for a long time.\nA new alloy has been prepared by Herr Keith\nof Bockenheim, Germany, and is said to practi-\ncally resist the attack of most acid and alkaline\nsolutions. It consists of copper 74 5, tin 1 1*6,\nlead 9, antimony 4*9 parts. This alloy is there-\nfore a bronze with the addition of lead and\nantimony. The inventor claims that it can be\nvery advantageously used in the laboratory to\nreplace vessels or fittings of ebonite, vulcan-\nite, or porcelain.\nOrmolu The ormolu of the brass founder,\npopularly known as an imitation of red gold,\nis extensively used by the French workmen in\nmetals It is generally found in combination\nwith grate and stove work. It is composed of\na greater portion of copper and less zinc than\nordinary brass, is cleaned readily by means of\nacid, and is burnished with facility. To give\nthis material the rich appearance, it is not un-\nfrequently brightened up after dipping,\nby means of a scratch brush, the action of\nwhich helps to produce a very brilliant gold-\nlike surface. It is protected from tarnish by\nthe application of lacquer.\nOroide. The alloy popularly known as oro-\nide, from which a large number of cheap","height":"4311","width":"2624","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0026.jp2"},"27":{"fulltext":"Alloys.\n15\nAlloys,\nwatches, chains, and trinkets are now manu-\nfactured, is made of pure copper 100 parts, tin\n17 parts, magnesia 16 parts, sal ammoniac y 2 part,\nquicklime Yg part, tartar of commerce 9 parts.\nThe copper is first melted, then the magnesia,\nsal ammoniac, lime and tartar in powder are\nadded little by little and briskly stirred for half\nan hour. The tin is lastly mixed in grains until\nall is fused. The crucible is covered, and the\nfusion maintained for 35 minutes, when the\ndross is skimmed off and the alloy is ready for\nuse.\nPackfong.—l. Copper, 40 parts zinc, 25 parts;\nnickel, 31 parts.\n2. Copper, 43 parts; zinc, 40 parts; nickel, 16\nparts.\n3. Copper, 45 parts zinc, 21 parts nickel, 33\nparts.\nPalladium and Silver Alloys.— Silver, 1 part\npalladium, 8 to 10 parts. Used by dentists.\nParisian Alloy.— Copper, 69 parts nickel, 19*5\nparts zinc, 6*5 parts cadmium, 5 parts.\nPatterns, Mixture for.— The best mixture for\nsmall patterns, that does not shrink in cast-\ning, is 69 parts lead, W/ 2 parts antimony, 15^\nparts bismuth by weight. A cheap kind for\nfinished patterns can be made of 10 parts zinc,\n1 part antimony, 1 part tin.\nAlloy for Best Pens.— Fine gold, 1 oz.; fine\nsilver, 5 dwts.; fine copper, 7 dwts. 18 grs.; spel-\nter, 1 dwt. 6 grs.\nPewter.— 1. Prep. (Aiken.) Tin, 100 parts an-\ntimony, 8 parts; copper, 4 parts; bismuth, 1\npart fuse together. Very fine.\n2. Plate pewter. Tin, 100 parts antimony, 8\nparts; bismuth and copper, of each, 2 parts.\nVery fine. Used to make plates, etc.\n3. Trifle. Tin, 83 parts antimony, 17 parts.\nSome lead is generally added.\n4. Ley. Tin, 4 parts lead, 1 part. Used for\nTjeer pots, etc.\nBest Pewter.— 5 lb. tin to 1 lb. of lead.\nCommon Pewter.— 82 parts pure tin, 18 parts\nlead.\nPlate Pewter.— 90 tin, 7 antimony, 2 bismuth,\n2 copper.\nPinchbeck.— Copper, 5 lb.; zinc, 1 lb.\nPipe Metal for Organs. Melt equal parts of\ntin and lead. This alloy is cast, instead of\nrolled, in the desired form of sheets, in order\nto obtain a crystallized metal, which produces a\nfiner tone. The sheets are formed by casting\nthe metal on a horizontal table, the thickness\nbeing- regulated by the height of a rib or bridge\nat one end, over which the superfluous metal\nflows off. The sheets thus obtained are planed\nwith a carpenter s plane, bent up, and soldered.\nPirsch Baudoin s Alloy.— This alloy is com-\n¥licated, and is rather difficult of preparation,\nt is composed of 70 per cent, of copper and\nnickel, cobalt, tin, zinc, and aluminum in vari-\nous proportions.\nPlatinum Bronze.— Several alloys of plati-\nnum, of a comparatively inexpensive nature,\nhave been manufactured under the above\nname, and it has been claimed for them that\nthey are indifferent to the action of air and\nwater. They admit of a high polish, and re-\ntain their luster for a long time. The follow-\ning table shows their composition and uses\nParts.\nUses.\np\n90-0\n81-5\n86 5\n71-0\n316\ni\na\n0-9\n0-8\n05\n145\n3-2\na\n9-0\n16-0\n13-0\n14*5\n33\n17\nm\nw\n03\nu\nFor table utensils\nbells\narticles of luxury\n44 tubes for telescopes,\netc\n44 ornaments\n65*2\nPlatinum and Copper Alloy.— An allo5 r of 1\npart platinum and 4 parts copperas, hard, duc-\ntile, of a yellow-pink color, and susceptible of\na high polish.\nAn alloy of equal parts by weight of copper\nand platinum, according to Clarke, is yellow,\nhaving the color and specific gravity of gold,\nextensible, easily worked by the file, and tar-\nnished by exposure to air.\nAn alloy of 4 parts platinum and 96 parts\ncopper is malleable, rose-colored, and exhibits\na fine-grained fracture.\nAn alloy of 3 parts platinum and 2 parts cop-\nper is nearly white, very hard, and brittle.\nThe following alloys have a golden yellow\ncolor. No. IV., known as Cooper s gold, is\nmalleable, ductile, and closely resembles 18\ncarat gold\nI.\n18-2\n455\nII.\n5\nIII.\n29-3\n66 7\n4-0\nIV.\n18-75\n81-25\nV.\n57-7\n38-5\n3-8\nVI.\n66-7\n29-1\n4-2\nVII.\nVIII.\nPlatinum\nCopper...\nZinc\n29-1\n66-7\n4-2\n19\n81-0\nSilver.\n9-0\n18-2\n9-0\n5\n60\n30\nBrass\nNickel..\nCooper s Mirror Metal. Copper, 57 85; plati-\nnum, 9-49; zinc, 3 51; tin, 27 49; arsenic, 166.\nThe inventor claims for this alloy that it is in-\ndifferent to the weather, and takes a beautiful\npolish.\nCooper s Pen Metal.— The above alloy is said\nto be suitable for pens. Another alloy consists\nof copper, 13 parts; platinum, 50 pai-ts; and\nsilver, 36 parts. The hardness and non-corro-\nsive character of Cooper s alloys render them\nsuitable for the manufacture of mathematical\ninstruments and for chronometer wheels.\nPlatinum and Nickel.— According to Lampa-\ndius, equal parts of nickel and platinum unite\nto forma pale yellowish white alloy, perfectly\nmalleable, susceptible of a high polish, equal\nto copper in f usibility and to nickel in mag-\nnetic power.\nPlatinor— This is a name given to certain al-\nloys containing platinum of a golden yellow\ncolor, and consisting of platinum, copper, sil-\nver, zinc, and nickel. An alloy of the color of\ngold, and said to be quite constant in air, is\nprepared as follows: Melt 10 parts of silver\nwith 45 parts of copper, then add 18 parts of\nbrass and 9 parts of nickel. The temperature\nmust then be raised to the highest pitch, and\n18 parts of platinum black added.\nBirmingham Platinum and Platinum Lead are\nused for certain castings, but the composition\nis variable, according to the taste of the manu-\nfacturer. The following will illustrate this\npoint\nCopper. 46 5 43 20\nZinc 53-5 57 80\nPot Metal. This is an alloy of copper and\nlead, in the proportion of 8 parts of copper to\n3 of lead. The lead is an impurity in the zinc\nused for making the brass. Pot metal is very\nbrittle when warmed; it is chiefly used for\nmaking large vessels.\nLead.\nCopper.\nDescription.\noz.\n4\n6\n7\n8\nlb.\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\nRed ductile alloy.\ndo.\nDry pot metal or cock alloy.\ndo. but shorter.\nWet pot metal.\nPotin.— Copper, 71*9; zinc, 24 9#; tin, V%%\\\nlead, 2.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0027.jp2"},"28":{"fulltext":"Alloys.\n16\nAlloys.\nPrince s Metal.— A name given to various yel-\nlow alloys varying from 60 to 75% of copper and\n40 to 2b% zinc.\nQueen s Metal. A very fine silver-looking\nmetal is composed of 100 lb. of tin, 8 lb. of reg-\nulus of antimony, 1 lb. of bismuth, and 4 lb. of\ncopper.\nReflector Metal, Duppler s.—l. Silver, 80 parts;\nzinc, 20 parts.\n2. Copper, 66*22 parts; tin, 33 11 parts; arse-\nnic, 0*67 part.\nRivet Metal.— Copper, 32 oz.; tin, 2 oz.; zinc, 1\noz.\nRivet Metal, for Hose.— Copper, 64 lb.; tin, 1 lb.\nRose s Alloy. Bismuth, lead and tin, equal\nparts. Melts at 93° C.\nShaTcdo.— This is a famous Japanese alloy. It\nis composed of copper and gold, the propor-\ntions Of the latter being variable, being from\n2 to 8%.\nPatent -Sheathing for Ships.— (Baron Wetter\nstedt.) This consists of lead with from 2 to 8\nper cent, of antimony. Usually about 3 per\ncent, is used.\nShot Metal.— 1. Lead, 1,000 parts; arsenic, 3\nparts.\n2. Lead, 97 parts arsenic, 3 parts.\nSideraphite.—l\\ on, 63 parts 23 parts nickel\n4 parts of tungsten 5 parts of aluminum and\n5 parts of copper.\nSilicon- copper and Silicon-bronze are made,\naccording to Weiller, the inventor of these\ncombinations, in the following manner. He\nrecommends the following proportions\npotassium silico-fluoride, 450 parts by weight\npowdered glass, 600 parts; common salt, 250\nparts; carbonate of soda, 75 parts carbonate\nof lime, 60 parts and dried chloride of calcium,\n500 parts. The mixture is heated in a covered\nplumbago crucible to a temperature a little\nbelow the point when they begin to act on\neach other, when the mixture is added to the\nmolten copper or bronze, as the case may be\nthe reduced silicon combining with the metal\nor alloy.\nSilver Alloys. See also the following Clark s\nAlloy, Baudoin s Alloy, Chinese Silver, Parisian\nAlloy, Minargent, Warm s Alloy, White Alloy.\nSilver Alloys.— Table of silver alloys\nFiligree silver..\n1 Standard, Hall.\n2 Standard, coin.\n3 Silver alloy.\n4\nCopper. I Nickel.\n5\n6\n7\n8\n9\n10\n11 Common silver.\n12\n13\noz. dwt.gr.\nI Pure\n19 6\n18 12\n18\n16\n15\n14\ni0 13 12\n13\n12 12\n12\n1 00\n1 00\n1 Oil\noz. dwt.gr. oz. dwt.gr.\n00\n18\n1 12\n2\n4\n5\n6\n6 12\n7\n7 12\n8\n17\n16\n2\nI)\n13\n10 12\n15\nSpelter\n(Zinc.)\noz. dwt.gr.\n10\n3 12\nooo\n1. Sterling silver. Fine silver, 5 oz., 11 dwt.;\nfine copper, 9 dwt.\n2. Equal to Sterling-fine silver, 1 oz. fine\ncopper, 1 dwt. 12 gr.\n3. 65 parts of iron and 4 parts of tungsten are\nmelted together and granulated also 23 parts\nnickel, 5 of aluminum, and 5 of copper, in a\nseparate crucible, to which is added a piece of\nsodium, in order to prevent oxidation. The\ntwo granulated alloys are then melted to-\ngether. Both alloys resist the action of sul-\nphureted hydrogen.\n4. Copper, 71 oz.; zinc, 7 oz.; nickel, 16}^ oz.;\niron, 1J4 oz.; cobalt (oxide), 1% oz.; tin, 2)4 oz.\nFirst fuse the zinc with 12 parts of the copper\nthen fuse the nickel with its own weight of the\nzinc alloy in a good blacklead crucible, and the\niron, the remainder of the copper, and the-\noxide of cobalt mixed with charcoal. Cover\nthe mass with charcoal, lute, and expose to a\nhigh heat. When properly fused, allow the\nheat to subside and add the remainder of the\ncopper-zinc alloy when the temperature is .just\nsufficient to fuse it. Remove the crucible from\nthe fire and stir its contents well with a hazel\nstick. Wrap the tin in several thicknesses of\ndry paper, drop it into the alloy, stir for a\nmoment, and run into the moulds. When cold,\nit is ready to be wrought like silver, which it\nresembles in every respect. The zinc is nearly\nall volatilized during the process of fusion.\nChinese Silver 1. Copper, 58 parts; zinc, 17 5\nparts nickel, 11 5 parts cobalt, 11 parts silver,\n2 parts.\n2. 55 2 parts copper, 19*5 zinc, 13 nickel, 2 5\nsilver, and 12 cobalt of iron.\nImitation of Silver. Tin, 3 oz.; copper, 4 lb.\nSolder Alloys.— Table of, and the heat at which\nthey melt.\nTin.\nLead.\nMelts at\n1 part.\n25 parts.\n558°\nFahr.\n1\n10\n541\n1\n5\n511\ntt\n1\n3\n482\nu\n1\n2\n441\n1\n1 part.\n370\ntt\n3 parts.\n2 parts.\n334\n2\n1 part.\n340\n3\n1\n356\n4\n1\n365\nit\n5\n1\n378\nIt\n6\n1\n381\nfcfc\nSorel s Alloy.\nCopper 1 10\nZinc 98 80\nIron 1 10\nIron is used in the form of turnings, and melted\nwith the copper and zinc under a layer of char-\ncoal. But as zinc so readily volatilizes, it is\nadvisable to employ zinc already containing\niron, by which a more uniform alloy is obtain-\ned, with the minimum loss of zinc.\nSpeculum Metal.- -Equal parts of tin and cop-\nper form a white metal as hard as steel. Less\ntin and a small quantity of arsenic added to\nthe alloy forms a white, hard metal of high\nluster. 2 lb. copper, 1 lb. tin, and 1 oz. arsenic\nform a good speculum metal. An alloy of\n32 copper, 16*5 tin, 4 brass, 1 25 arsenic is hard,\nwhite, and of brilliant luster.\nSpecular Alloys.— These are employed for\nmaking metallic reflectors, requiring a true\nwhite color, good luster, and a hard, clean sur-\nface, not easily tarnished or scratched. Fesquet\ngives a number of combinations, as follows:\n1. 62 parts copper, 32 parts tin, 6 parts lead. 2.\n80 parts copper, 10 parts lead, 10 parts anti-\nmony. 3. 66 to 63 parts copper, 33 to 27 parts\ntin. 4. 10 parts copper, 10 parts tin, 10 parts\nantimony, 50 parts lead. 5. 32 parts copper, 50\nparts tin, 1 part silver, 1 part arsenic^. 6. 90\nparts steel, 10 parts nickel. 7. 50 parts palla-\ndium, 50 parts silver. 8. 60 parts platinum, 40\nparts copper. 9. 50 parts platinum, 50 parts\nsteel. 10. 50 parts platinum, 50 parts iron. 11.\n10 parts platinum, 90 parts steel. 12. 20 parts\nplatinum, 80 parts copper, 5 to 1 part arsenic.\n13. 60 parts platinum, 30 parts iron r 10 parts\ngold. 14. 50 parts gold, 50 parts zinc. 15. 50 parts\nsteel, 50 parts rhodium. 16. 10 parts platinum,\n90 parts iridium. 17. 29 parts tin, 19 parts lead.\n18. 52 parts copper, 30 parts nickel, 12 parts\nzinc, 5 parts lead, 1 part bismuth.\nGood speculum metal should be pure white,\nof a fine grained structure, perfectly sound and\nhomogeneous when cast, and sufficiently tena-\ncious to stand grinding and polishing without\nrupture. It should contain 65 to 68 per cent, of\ncopper to comply with these requisites. The\nfollowing table exhibits different varieties","height":"4311","width":"2624","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0028.jp2"},"29":{"fulltext":"Alloys.\n17\nAlloys.\nEnglish alloy\nRoss s alloy\nAncient mirror\nRichardson s alloy.\nSallit s alloy\nChinese alloy\nCopper.\n666\n68-21\n62\n65 3\n64-6\n80-83\nTin.\n31-79\n32\n30\n313\n11-67\nZinc.\n0 7\nArsenic. Lead.\nOther metals.\n2 silver.\n4*1 nickel.\n8*5 antimony.\nTable of Speculum Alloys.\nSilver.\nBrass.\nCopper,\nTin.\nArsenic.\n32\n14\no\n32\n13/2\nV/z\n6\n2\n1\n33\n2\n1\n3\n1M\n64\n29\n1\n1\n32\n15\nIn using arsenic, it must be introduced into\nthe crucible when the mixture is in a melting-\nstate. Being in a coarsely pounded state, it is\ntied up in a paper bag and let into the cruci-\nble by a pair of tongs. The whole mixture\nrequires to be stirred with a birch rod till va-\npors cease to rise. Avoid breathing or inhal-\ning while the vapors appear as soon as they\nare over, the alloy is ready for pouring. Arse-\nnic renders alloys white and hard.\nThe alloys containing arsenic should be taken\nout of the flask as soon as properly set, and\nplaced in hot ashes, and in a pi oper place for\nprotracted annealing.\nSpencers Metal.— This important alloy was\n•discovered by Mr. Spence of England. It is\nprepared by melting together the three sul-\nphides of zinc, iron and lead with sulphur. It\nis proof against the atmosphere and resists\n■acids and alkalies.\nStatuary Metal.— 91*4 parts copper, 5*53 zinc,\n1*7 tin, 1*37 lead or copper 80, tin 20.\nStereotype Metal.— 1 tin; 1 antimony; 4 lead.\nLn using stereotype metal, brush the type with\nplumbago or a small quantity of oil, then place\nin a frame and take a cast with plaster of Paris.\nThe cast is dried in a very hot oven, placed face\n^downward upon a flat plate of iron this plate\nis laid in a tray or pan of iron, having a lid\nsecurely fastened, and furnished with a hole at\neach corner. Dip the tray in the fluid metal,\nwhich will flow in at the four corners. When\nthe tray is removed, dip the bottom only in\nwater and as the metal contracts in cooling,\npour in melted metal at the corners, so as to\nkeep up the fluid pressure, and obtain a good\n•solid cast. When cool, open the tray; remove the\n•oake of plaster and metal, and beat the edges\nwith a mallet to remove superfluous metal.\nPlane the edges square, turn the back flat, in a\n•lathe, to the required thickness, and remove\nany defects. If any letters are damaged, cut\nthem out, and solder in separate types instead.\nFinally, fix upon hard wood to the required\nheight.\nStopcocks, Alloy for.— Zinc, 72 parts tin, 21\nparts copper, 7 parts.\nTiers Argent.— Silver, 33^ aluminum, 66%.\nMetal for Tinning. Malleable iron, 1 lb., heat\nto whiteness; add 5 oz. regulus of antimony\nand Molucca tin 24 lb.\nTissier s Metal. —Copper, 97 per cent.; zinc, 2\nper cent.\nTombac— 1. An alloy consisting of copper, 16\nlb.; tin, 1 lb.; zinc, 1 lb. Red tombac is com-\nposed of copper, 10 lb.; zinc, 1 lb.\n2. Copper, 16 lb.; tin, 1 lb.; zinc, 1 lb.\nBed Tombac— Copper, 10 lb.; zinc, 1 lb.\nTournay s Metal.— Copper, 82*5^ zinc, 17*5#.\nTubania, Engestrum.—^ copper, 8 antimony, 1\nbismuth, added to 100 tin.\nTubania, English.— 12 brass (containing 7 cop-\nper, 3 zinc), 12 tin, 12 bismuth, 12 antimony.\nTubania, German. 0*4 copper, 3 2 tin, 42 an-\ntimony.\nTubania, Spanish.— 24 iron and steel scraps,\n48 antimony, 9 niter. The iron and steel are\nheated to whiteness, and the antimony and\nniter gradually added 2 oz. of this is alloyed\nwith 1 lb. tin a little arsenic is an improve-\nment.\nSpanish Tutania.—Iron or steel, 8 oz.; anti-\nmony, 16 oz.; niter, 3 oz. Melt and harden 8 oz.\ntin with 1 oz. of this compound.\nAnother Tutania.— Antimony, 4 oz.; arsenic, 1\noz.; tin, 2 lb.\nTutenag.— Copper, 8 parts; nickel, 3 parts;\nzinc, 5 parts.\nThe manufacture of type from the alloy by\nstamping or pressing is only adopted in certain\ncases, the types being generally cast. The al-\nloys, being well adapted for castings, are em-\nployed for certain kinds of ornamental work.\nAn alloy for keys of flutes and similar parts\nof musical instruments consists of lead 2 parts\nand antimony 1 part.\nType Metal.— 9 parts lead to 1 antimony forms\ncommon type metal; 7 lead to 1 antimony is\nused for large and soft type 6 lead and 1 anti-\nmony for large type; 5 lead and 1 antlmony\nf or middle type 4 lead and 1 antimony for\nsmall type and 3 lead to 1 antimony for the\nsmallest kinds of type.\nErhardfs Type Metal.— Zinc, 93 per cent.; lead\nType Metal, Alloys used for.\nLead.\n4-0\n7-5\n90\n64-0\n9-0\n16-0\n30\n5-0\nio-o\nAnti-\nmony.\n1-0\n25\n10\n8-0\n2-0\n4-0\n10\n1-0\n2\n5-0\n25\n8-0\n25\nTin.\nBis-\nmuth.\nCopper\nZinc.\nOther\nmetals.\n0-5\ntt tt\nArsenic\n0 5\nIt tt\n120\n50\n16-0\nt( tt tt tt\n2-6\nlb I. tt tt\nIt It tt It\ntt tt tt lb\n50\n75\n120\n37 5\n10\nPlates for engraving music, etc\n»t tt ._ tt tt\n64 6\n60 0\ntt n tt tt it\n16-0\n«t t*, «t tt t","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0029.jp2"},"30":{"fulltext":"Alloys.\n3 per cent.; tin, 3 per cent.; copper, 2 per cent.\nUchatius Bronze.— The composition of this\nfamous ordnance bronze is a secret, owned by\nthe Austrian government.\nUnalterable Alloy (Jacobi).— Copper, 70 to 73\nper cent.; tin, 2 to 11 per cent.; lead, 15 to 20 per\ncent.; zinc. 0 5 to 1 per cent. This alloy pos-\nsesses a yellowish red tint, and may be used for\nobjects of art, imitation jewelry, etc. When\ntreated with sulphides, chloride of antimony,\nchloride of arsenic, etc., this alloy becomes\ncoated with a black patina, capable of being\npolished.\nVaucher s Alloy —See White Metal.\nVert d Eau, Water Green.— $00 gold, 400 silver.\n18 Alloys.\nNo. 1 is used for lining crosshead slides, rod\nbrasses, and axle bearings. No. 2 is used for\nlining axle bearings and connecting rod brasses\nof heavy engines. No. 3 is used for lining\neccentric straps and for bronze slide valves.\nNo. 4 is a special alloy for metallic rod pack-\ning.\nWhite Alloy.— 1. Copper, 64 5 parts; tin, 32\nparts arsenic, 3*5 parts.\n2. Copper, 59 tin, 31 brass, 8 arsenic, 2 per\ncent.\n3. Tin, 82 lead, 18 antimony, 5 zinc, 1 and.\ncopper, 4 parts.\nWhite Alloys for Bearings.\nTin.\nCopper\nAnti-\nmony.\nLead.\nZinc.\nIron.\nKingston s metal with 6 per cent, of mercury\n88-0\n145\n310\n14-0\n333\n46-0\n85-0\n26-0\n12*0\n140\n81-0\n810\n6*0\n55\n19\n57\n22-2\n5 6\n50\n40\n60\n50\n5\nio-o\n12-0\n50\n9-0\n7\n2 0\n6-0\n8-0\nFenton s metal for axle boxes of locomotives and\n80-0\n19-0\n29-0\nStephenson s alloy\n31*0\n44-4\n12-0\nWO\n420\n690\n20\n800\n82-0\nAnti-friction metal\nFor general bearings\n140\nio-o\n10\n18-0\n17\n8-0\n70\n2-0\n15-0\n2-5\n14 0\nit n .i\n11 Li 11\n80-0\n88 0\n11 It\n85-0\n73-0\n760\n90\n87-0\n20\n11 11 11\n11 11 1( U\nheavy work\n.i ii ii ii\nk common work\n850\n4-5\n88-0\n75-0\nSoft alloy for pillow blocks\n18-0\nViolet Alloy.— Copper, 75 per cent.; antimony,\n25 per cent.\nWarne s Alloy.— Tin 37, nickel 26, bismuth 26,\ncobalt 11 per cent.\nWhite Metal Alloys.— The following alloys are\nused as lining metals by the Eastern Railroad\nof France\nNumber. Lead. Antimony. Tin. Copper.\n1 65 25 10\n2 11-12 83 33 5-55\n3 70 20 10\n4 80 8 12\nHard White Metal.—Sheet brass, 32 oz.; lead,.\n2 oz.; tin, 2 oz.; zinc, 1 oz.\nNew Inoxidizable White Metal.— According to\nM. Marlie, an inoxidizable white metal may be\nmade of iron, 10 parts nickel, 35 parts brass,\n25 parts tin, 20 parts and zinc, 10 parts. The\nalloy is cast and cut in pieces, and the. latter\nare tempered at white heat in a mixture\nof: sulphuric acid, 60 parts; 1 nitric acid\n10 parts; muriatic acid, 5 parts; and water,\n25 parts.\nTable of White Alloys.\nDescription.\nSilver.\nNickel.\nBrass.\nZinc.\nTin.\nLead,\nlb.\nCopper\nlb.\n10\n1-0\ni-o\nAnti-\nmony.\nlb.\nBis-\nmuth.\nNickel, or German silver..\ndwts.\n30\n150\nlb.\ndwts.\n16-0\n13-0\nlb.\nlb.\nQueen s metal\n9-0\n49-0\n1-0\n15\n06\n1-0\n20\n1-0\n35\n2\nBritannia metal\n1-0\n160\n2-0\n10\nlb.\n2 6\nWhite button metal\nSolder for bell metal\n6-5\ni-o\n015\n44 brass.\ntin\n44 44 silver\n10\n1-0\n40\ni-o\n835-0\n950-0\n900\n800-0\n9000\n800\n835-0\n1000\n0-5\n0-3\nii ii ii\nit it .1\n10\n44 44 Mokume\n0-15\nFrench coin\n165\n50-6\nioo-o\n200-0\n50\n100\n72-0\n11 14 11\nIt It 11\n500\nioo-o\n930\n30 to 50\n11 It 11\nIt 11 11\nGin shi bu ichi","height":"4311","width":"2624","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0030.jp2"},"31":{"fulltext":"Almonds.\n19\nAmalgam.\nAlmonds.— Jordan almonds are the finest\nand most agreeable, and are those ordered in\nthe pharmacopoeias. The next in quality are\nValentia almonds, which, being excellent, and\ncheaper than the preceding, are commonly\nsubstituted for them in preparations. The\nother varieties of sweet almonds are in-\nferior.\nBitter almonds are a variety imported from\nMogadore, characterized by their bitter, nutty\nflavor, and possessing, when rubbed with\nwater, the odor of peach kernels. They are\nchiefly used to relieve the flavor of sweet\nalmonds, to flavor confectionery, liquors, etc.\nTheir essential oil is used in perfumery, parti-\ncularly toilet soaps. In a quantity, bitter al-\nmonds are poisonous.\nOil of almonds is obtained, by expression,\nfrom both bitter and sweet almonds, the ex-\npressed oil of each being equally bland and\nsweet. The essential oil of almonas is obtained\nfrom bitter almonds by distillation. It is highly\npoisonous.\nAlmond Balls. See Cosmetics.\nBlanched Almonds. Almonds from which the\nhusk or seed coat has been removed. This is\neffected by soaking them in warm water until\nthe skin can be easily removed by pressure be-\ntween the thumb and forefinger. They are\nthen peeled, rinsed in cold water, drained and\ndried. The last is done by either wiping them\nwith a soft towel or by exposure to the air or\nsun. Unblanched almonds are scarcely ever\nused in preparations.\nAlmond Paste. See Cosmetics.\nAlterant.— A substance added to a color to\ngive it brightness, same as raising.— (Dyeing.)\nAlteratives.— Tonics and medicines which\ntend to build up the system and restore and\npreserve the healthy functions of the body.\nBlood maker and purifier (used as a substitute\nfor iron tonic, also taken in connection with\niron tonic). ounce manganese sulphate\nmixed with 1 quart of water. Take two table-\nspoonfuls three times a day.\nAlum, Burnt.— Heat the alum in an open\nvessel to 401° Fah., such as an enameled frying\npan. Alum, in small pieces, one hundred and\neighty-four parts. To make one hundred\nparts. Expose the alum for several days to a\ntemperature of about 80° C. (176° Fah until\nit has thoroughly effloresced. Then place it in\na porcelain capsule, and gradually heat it to a\ntemperature of 200° C. (392° Fah.), being careful\nnot to allow the heat to rise above 205° C. (401°\nFah.) Continue heating at the before men-\ntioned temperature until the mass becomes\nwhite and porous, and weighs one hundred\nparts. When cold, reduce it to fine powder,\nand preserve it in well stopped vessels.\nAlum Cake. A nearly pure sulphate of\nalumina.\nAlum Chrome. A double sulphate of\nchromium and potash. It is obtained as a by-\nproduct in the manufacture of artificial alizar-\nine and is coming into use as a mordant. It\nis not, as some suppose, a mixture of alum\nand bichromate of potash.\nAlum Poultice.— Take of alum (in fine\npowder; 1 drachm whites of eggs 2 in number;\nshake them together until they form a coagu-\nlum. Formerly much used in broken chil-\nblains, chaps, sore nipples, chronic inflamma-\ntion of the eyes, etc., applied on linen, and\ncovered with a piece of fine muslin. This is\nthe formula of the old Dublin Ph.;. as also of\nthe London Ph. of 1788.\nAluminum, to Braze. See Brazing.\nAluminum, to Solder. See Soldering.\nTo plate with. See Electro-metallurgy.\nAmalgam.— A mixture of mercury with\ncertain metals, as zinc, copper, or tin. Amal-\ngams are formed in three ways. 1. By a direct\nunion with the metal. 2. By adding mercury\nto the solution of a metallic salt. 3. By add-\ning the metal to a solution of a mercury salt.\nMercury unites with a large number of metals,\nforming definite chemical compounds called\namalgams. Some of these are solid, while\nothers exist in a fluid state. It is probable,\nhowever, that fluid amalgams merely repre-\nsent a solution in excess of mercury of some\nfixed compound of mercury with another\nmetal, inasmuch as when a quantity of sucl.\ntluid amalgam is pressed through the pores oi\na chamois leather bag, a small portion of mer-\ncury passes through, leaving behind the solid\namalgam, Avhich, on examination, is generally\nfound to have a fixed chemical constitution.\nThe fluidity of an amalgam seems therefore to\ndepend upon the presence of an excess of mer-\ncury over and above the amount theoretically\nrequired to enter into combination with the\nother metal.\nThe following are some of the most import-\nant amalgams\nCopper Amalgam. There are several methods\nof preparing this, the following being, per-\nhaps, the best: A mixture of finely divided\nmetallic copper (obtained by precipitating\ncopper sulphate with metallic iron) and mercu-\nroussulphate is triturated under hot water for\nhalf an hour. After this the water is repeat-\nedly changed until it is no longer blue. The\nmass is then dried, kneaded well, and allowed\nto harden, when it consists of an amalgam of\n7 parts mercury with 3 of copper. The peculi-\narity of this amalgam is its property of soft-\nening when kneaded, and becoming quite hard\nagain after standing some hours. It has been\nused by Parisian dentists as a stopping for de-\ncayed teeth, t bough, owing to the poisonous\nnature of the copper, it is not to be recom-\nmended for this purpose.\nGold Amalgam.— This is formed when mer-\ncury is heated with powdered gold or gold foil.\nIt consists usually of two parts of gold to one\nof mercury. It has been found native near\nMariposa, in California, and in the platinum\nregion of Colombia.\nThe readiness with which mercury combines\nwith gold is made use of in the extraction of\nthe latter from its ores. The ore is crushed in\nan iron mortar, or battery, as it is termed.\nWater is introduced into each battery by a\nnumber of pipes. Mercury is placed in the\nbatteries in small quantities, and unites with\nthe gold as the latter is liberated by the crush-\ning process. The larger portion of the amal-\ngam is afterward found in the batteries, ad-\nhering to the plates, the remainder being-\ncaught by inclined plates placed outside the\nbattery. The plates are cleaned by scraping\noff the adhering amalgam, first gently with a\nknife, and finally with a thick piece of hard\ngum or rubber, which scrapes the surface\nclosely without cutting or scratching it. The\nplates are then washed with water, and prepar-\ned for use again by sprinkling mercury over\nthem, and spreading the same evenly by means\nof a cloth, thus forming a freshly amalgamated\nsurface.\nIron Amalgam.— Iron will not unite with\nmercury under ordinary conditions. Small\nquantities of an iron amalgam have, however,\nbeen formed by immersing sodium amalgam\n(containing 1 per cent, sodium) in a clear, satu-\nrated solution of ferrous sulphate.\nSilver Amalgam.— This compound is formed\nby the union of mercury with finely divided\nsilver. Native silver amalgam has been found\nat Moschellandsberg, in the Palatinate, and in\nseveral other places. Mercury is used for\nsilver extracting, in a process somewhat simi-\nlar to that described above for the extraction\nof gold.\nSodium Amalgam. Sodium and mercury\ncombine readily under ordinary conditions by\nbeing brought into contact one with another.\nThe union is attended with much hissing and","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0031.jp2"},"32":{"fulltext":"Amalic Acid.\n20\nAmmo iliac u in.\nspluttering-, and with a considerable evolution\nof heat.\nTin Amalgam. Tin and mercury combine\nreadily at ordinary temperatures. If 3 parts\nmercury be brought into contact with 1 of tin,\n6-sided crystals of tin amalgam are formed. Tin\namalgam is used for silvering looking glasses.\nWhen pulverized and rubbed on the polishing\nstone, it forms a kind of mosaic silver. Elec-\ntric amalgam may be made by melting tin and\nzinc together in various proportions in a por-\ncelain crucible. The mixture ig well stirred up,\nand when on the point of solidifying, the mer-\ncury is added and worked into the mass. The\nwhole is next transferred to a mortar warm\nenough to keep the amalgam soft while it is\nwell worked together, after which a piece of\ntallow or lard, not quite equal in bulk to the\nmass, is kneaded in until the amalgam attains\nthe proper consistency.\nZinc Amalgam is formed by mixing and tri-\nturating zinc filings with mercury, at a heat\nsomewhat below the boiling point of the\nlatter. It is usually prepared by pouring mer-\ncury into zinc at the temperature at which the\nlatter is just kept in a fused state. Care must\nbe taken to keep the liquid stirred, and to add\nthe mercury slowly and in as fine a stream as\npossible.\nAmalgam for Coating Plastic Castings. —1 part\ntin, 1 mercury, 1 bismuth. The mercury is\nmixed with the white of an egg, and added to\nthe tin and bismuth when they are thoroughly\nmelted and blended. The alloy while still hot\nforms a pasty liquid, which should be applied\nwith a brush. (Giittier.)\nElectric Machines, Amalgam for. 1. Melt 8\nparts of zinc, add 2 parts tin, place 4 parts\nheated mercury in a wooden box lined with\nchalk. Pour in the alloy, cover the box, and\nshake until cool. Bisulphide of tin is highly\nrecommended as a substitute for amalgam.\n2. The rubbers of glass electric machines are\ncoated with amalgam, consisting of equal\nweights of tin and zinc melted together, with\ntwice their joint weight of mercury added\nduring fusion. (Kienmayer.) Another amal-\ngam is tin 1, zinc 2, mercury 4. For ebonite\ndisks the amalgam should be softer than for\nglass. Grease is mixed with the powdered\namalgam to give it softness and make it stick.\nIn France bisulphide of tin is used.\nMackenzie s Amalgam.— 20 parts of lead and 10\nparts of bismuth are melted separately and\nthrown into fresh crucibles, each containing 5\nparts of mercury. When required for use, rub\nthe two amalgams together.\nAmalgam for Spherical Mirrors.— Bismuth, 40\nparts mercury, 13 parts.\nAmalic Acid.— A compound obtained from\ncaffeine. Bed, blue, and violet-color may be\nobtained from this material, but it is high\npriced.\nAmandine. See Cosmetics.\nAmber, to Bend.— Drop it into hot bees-\nwax After it has been immersed for a few\nminutes, remove it, and, holding it before the\nfire, bend it to the desired shape.\nAmber, to Cement. See Cements.\nAmber, Factitious.— Prep. Dissolve\nshellac in an alkaline lye, then pass chlorine\nthrough the solution until the whole of the lac\nis precipitated. After washing in water, this\nmust be melted and kept over the fire until it\nruns clear, taking care that it does not burn\nit should then be poured into moulds of the\nsize of the pieces required.\nAmber, Imitation of.— A fictitious am-\nber is prepared by melting pure bleached shel-\nlac, and keeping it over the fire until it runs\nclear, with care to prevent burning. It may be\npoured into moulds of the size of pieces re-\nquired. The operation requires considerable\nmanagement. The darkest and hardest pieces\nof gum copal are also substituted for amber.\nThe copal may be fused with the shellac.\nAmber, Soluble.— Fragments of amber\nare cautiously heated in an iron pot, and as\nsoon as it becomes semi-liquid, an equal weight\nof pale boiled linseed oil, previously made hot,\nis very gradually stirred in, and the whole\nthoroughly blended. Used as a cement for\nglass and earthenware, and thinned with oil of\nturpentine to make varnishes. It will keep any\nlength of time if preserved from the air.\nAmber Varnish. See Varnishes.\nAmber, to Work.— 1. Amber in the rough\nis first split and cut rudely into the shape re-\nquired by a leaden wheel worked with emery\npowder, or by a bow saw having a wire for the\nblade, tripoli or emery powder being used\nwith it. The roughly formed pieces are then\nsmoothed with a piece of whetstone and water.\nThe polishing is effected by friction with\nwhiting and water, and finally with a little\nolive oil laid on and well rubbed with a piece\nof flannel, until the polish is complete. In this\nprocess the amber becomes hot and highly\nelectrical as soon as this happens it must be\nlaid aside to recover itself before the polishing\nis continued, otherwise the article will be apt\nto fly into pieces.\n2. Amber is worked in a lathe, polished\nwith whiting and water or oil, and finished off\nby friction with flannel. During the operation\nthe pieces often become hot and electrical, and\nfly into fragments, to avoid which, they should\nbe kept cool, and only worked for a short\nperiod at a time.\n3. Anoint the edges to be joined with linseed\noil, and hold them over a charcoal brazier or\nnear a gas jet until the parts become sticky,\ntaking the precaution to wrap paper round the\nother parts. Press them together, and hold\ntill cold. Polishing is effected first with whit-\ning and water and then with olive oil and a bit\nof felt or cloth.\nAmbergris.— Syn. Ambergrisea.— (Lat.)\nAmbregris (Fr.) A substance found in irre-\ngular masses floating on the sea in tropical\nclimates, and supposed to be a morbid secre-\ntion of the liver or intestines of the spermaceti\nwhale. Prop. Dirty pale color very odorous;\nlighter than water largely employed in per-\nfumerv.\nAmmonia, Spirit of.— 1. Take of quick-\nlime, 12 ounces (troy) water (to slake), 6^\nfluid ounces to the slaked lime add of sal\nammoniac (in fine powder), 8 ounces (troy);\nput the mixture into a glass retort furnished\nwith a tube reaching nearly to the bottom of\na bottle (surrounded with ice or very cold\nwater) containing rectified spirit, 1 quart and.\ndistill, by the heat of a sand bath, as long as\ngas passes over. The product must be kept in\na well stopped bottle, and in a cool place. Sp.\ngr., about 0*845. Very pungent and caustic\nchiefly employed in perfumery, to make other\npreparations, particularly ammoniated per-\nfumes, etc.\n2. Take of carbonate of ammonia, \\Yz ounce\nrectified spirit, 1 pint dissolve. Less caustic\n*and pungent than the preceding, owing to the\nammonia being in the carbonated state.\n3. The spiritus ammonia? of the London Ph.\nof 1836 was made from sal ammoniac 10 ounces\n(troy) carbonate of potash, 16 ounces (troy)\nrectified spirit, 3 pints; water, 3 pints; three\npints only being drawn over by distillation.\nAmmonia, Compound Spirits of.\nFor compound spirits of ammonia, the aroma-\ntic spirits of ammonia are usually dispensed by\ndruggists.\nCarbonate of ammonium. 40 parts.\nWater of ammonia 100\nOil of lemon 12\nOil of lavender flowers 1\nAlcohol 700\nDistilled water sufficient to make.1,000\nAmmoniacum. See Gums.","height":"4360","width":"2698","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0032.jp2"},"33":{"fulltext":"Amorphous,\n21\nAnatomical.\nAmorphous. A term applied to bodies\nwhich do not have a crystalline form.\nAmykos. A tooth wash, 4» 0 grms. clove s\nboiled in 1 gal. of water in which 420 grms. of\npui*e glycerine are dissolved, and to which 210\ngrms. of borax are added. (Hager.) [Not re-\ncommended.]\nAnalysis.— The determination of the per-\ncentage proportions of the elements existing\nin a compound material. The analysis is then\nsaid to be quantitative. Qualitative analysis\nsimply demonstrates the presence of certain\nelements by their reactions on other elements\nor bodies, without determining their relative\nproportions.\nAnatomical Preparations and Natur-\nal History Specimens.— Preserving Anato-\nmical Specimens for a Private Museum.— Bones\nand skulls may be prepared by boiling them for\nsome hours in water containing potash, which\nprocess, I know from experience gained in\npreserving specimens for my own museum,\nquickly causes the flesh to become detached.\nAnother way is to carefully remove the flesh\nwith dissecting apparatus, and then to place the\nspecimens in weak brine, in order to draw\naway any blood from the bones next wash\nthem in fresh water, and lay them out to dry.\nGullets, stomachs, windpipes and intestines\nmay also be put into weak brine and then\ndried. At sea, in the case of the albatross, I\nhave preserved these objects by simply clean-\ning them, blowing them out, making fast the\nends with a clove hitch, and hanging up to dry.\nA coat of varnish will finish them off. All soft\nparts should be preserved in proof alcohol.\nFishes and reptiles should be preserved whole\nin it, having first made very carefully an in-\ncision in the under part to facilitate the intro-\nduction of the spirit or, if at its full strength,\nit would harden the exterior and not reach the\nentrails. Neglecting to make these incisions\nresults, I have frequently found, in the putre-\nfaction of the internals. With large specimens\nthe natural juices quickly weaken the spirit,\nwhich should be added to until it keeps its\nstrength. The one great advantage of alcoholic\nspecimens is, that at any time they can be re-\nmoved from the preserving jars and examined\nin their entirety. On no account should they\nbe allowed to come into close contact with the\nsides of the glass or jar, and they should in-\nvariably be suspended by a strong thread, the\nend of which should not protrude above the\ncork or stopper.— C. L. Wragge, in English Me-\nchanic.\nPreparations for Preserving Specimens. 1.\nNearly saturate water with sulphurous acid\nand add a little creosote.\n2. Dissolve chloride of lime, 4 parts, in water\n100 parts, to which 3 per cent, of hydrochloric\nacid has been added.\n3. Dissolve corrosive sublimate, 1 part, and\nsodium chloride, 3 parts, in water, 100 parts, to\nwhich 2 per cent, of hydrochloric acid has been\nadded.\n4. Babington s 1 pint wood naphtha, 7 pints\nwater.\n5. Burnett s 1 lb. zinc chloride, 1 gal. water\nimmerse for 2 to 4 days, and then dry in the\nair.\n6. Morrill s 14 oz. arsenious acid, 7 oz. caus-\ntic soda, 20 fl. oz. water, and sufficient carbolic\nacid to produce opalescence when the mixture\nis stirred; add water to make up to 100 fl. oz.\nUsed for general disinfecting and embalming\npurposes.\n7. Muller s 2 to 2^ oz. bichromate of potash,\n1 oz. soda sulphate add water to make up to\n100 fl. oz.\n8. Mix ammonia with 3 times its weight of\nwater and rectified spirit.\n9. Ammonium chloride, 1 part; water 10 or 11\nparts. For muscular parts of animals zinc\nsulphate, 1 part water, 15 to 25 parts. Used\nfor muscles and cerebral masses.\n10. Passini s 1 oz. mercury chloride, 2 oz\nsodium chloride, 13 oz. glycerine, 11311. oz. dis-\ntilled water.\n11. Reboulet s 1 oz. saltpeter, 2 oz. alum, 4\noz. calcium chloride, in 16 to 20 fl. oz. water;\ndilute according to need.\n12. Seseman s: Dr. Seseman states that a\ncorpse may be made to retain the natural form\nof expression for months by\n13. Injecting into it a solution consisting of\n4 to 5 per cent, of aluminum chloride dissolved\nin a mixture of 2 parts alcohol of 90 per cent,\nand 1 part glycerine; or\n14. Painting the entire epidermis with vase-\nline. The quantity of liquid required for in-\njection is in the proportion of 1-10 to 1-7 of the\nweight of the corpse.\n15. Thwaites 1 1 oz. spirit of wine saturated\nwith creosote, rubbed up with chalk into a\nthin paste, and 16 oz. water gradually added.\n16. Von Vetter s 7 oz. glycerine at 36° Tw.\n(22° B.), 1 oz. raw brown sugar, and y% oz.\nniter immerse for some days.\n17. GannePs: Sodium chloride and alum, of\neach }4 lb.; niter, \\i lb.; water, 1 gal.\n18. Goadsby s Bay salt, 2 oz.; alum, 1 oz.;\nmercury bichloride, 1 gr.; water, 1 pt. 4 oz.\n19. Bay salt, J4 lb.; bichloride of mercury, 1\ngr.; water, 20 fl. oz.\n20. Bay salt, J4 lb.; arsenious acid, 10 gr.;\nwater, 20 fl. oz. Dissolve by heat.\n21. To the last add 1 gr. bichloride of mer-\ncury.\n22. Stapleton s Niter, 1 dr.; alum, 2J4 oz.;\nwater, 1 qt. For pathological specimens.\n23. Beasley s (for feathers): strychnia, 16 gr.;\nrectified spirit, 1 pt.\nPreserving Natural History Specimens.— 1.\nWhen ready, wipe the fish and place it in the\nfollowing solution, and it will keep for years\nif good alcohol be used Alcohol (95 per cent.),\n8 parts distilled water, 2 parts.\n2. If the fish are small, three or four days\nsuffice to harden them, and the following is a\nbetter solution for them, viz. Alcohol, 6 parts\ndistilled water, 2 parts. Kep tiles, rodentia, etc.,\ncan be also preserved in the same manner. The\nfirst alcoholic bath can be used over and over\nagain for the same purpose, if strained.\n3. Take of chloral, in crystals, one ounce,\nand dissolve it in five ounces of distilled water:\nAlcohol (95 per cent.), l^j oz.; glycerine, iy 2 dr.;\nrock salt, 15 gr.; saltpeter, 30 gr. Dissolve the\nglycerine, salt, and saltpeter in the alcohol,\nand when well mixed add to the chloral solu-\ntion, shake well till thoroughly incorporated,\nfilter, and it is ready for use.\n4. The following solution for larva? of insects,\nspiders, and other small, delicate objects, will\nbe found very valuable: Glycerine, loz., com-\nmon salt, 1 dr.; saltpeter, 1 dr.; distilled water,\n8 oz. Mix well -ogether. When wanted for\nuse, take two ounces of pui-e alcohol and add\none ounce of the mixture, shake well and\nfilter.\n5. For the preservation of tadpoles, young\nfrogs, salamanders, and similar objects, take 1\npound sulphate of zinc, 2 drachms burnt alum\nand mix well together.— Sci. Am.\nAnatomical Preparations, Fluid for.— (Ob-\njects of natural history, etc.)\n1. Saturate water with sulphurous acid, and\nadd a little creosote.\n2. Dissolve 4 parts of chloride of tin in 100\nparts of water, to which 3 per cent, of muri-\natic acid has been added.\n3. Dissolve 5 or 6 parts of corrosive sublimate\nin 100 of water, to which 2 per cent, of muriatic\nacid has been added.\n4. Mix together one part of ammonia water\n(strong) with three times its weight (each) of\nwater and spirit of wine.\n.Remarks.— These fluids are used by immers-\ning the objects therein, in close vessels. The\nthird formula is apt to render animal sub-\nstances very hard.— Coolexj.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0033.jp2"},"34":{"fulltext":"Anatomical.\nAnimation.\n5. To preserve anatomical specimens, im-\nmerse in a saturated solution of 100 parts\nalum with 2 parts saltpeter. The article at\nfirst loses color, but regains it again in a few\ndays, when it is removed from the liquid and\nkept in a saturated solution of alum and water\nonly.\nAnimals to preserve soft and delicate ones\n(Carpenter) Glycerine, 1 part; alcohol, 1 part\n8 to 10 parts sea water.\nBones, to Clean and Bleach. See Bleacning\nand also Cleansing.\nPreservative for Insects and Animal Tissues.\n—Glycerine, alcohol, distilled water, equal\nparts.\nInsects, to Preserve. 1. Laboulbene recom-\nmends for the preservation of insects in a fresh\nstate plunging them in a preservative fluid con-\nsisting of alcohol with an excess of arsenious\nacid in fragments; V pint alcohol will take\nabout 14 troy grains of arsenic. The living\ninsect, put into this preparation, absorbs about\n3-1000 of its own weight. When soaked in this\nliquor and dried, it will be safe from the rav-\nages of moths, Anthrenus or Dermestes. This\nliquid will not change the colors of blue, green\nor red beetles if dried after soaking from\ntwelve to twenty -four hours. Hemiptera and\nOrthoptera can be treated in the same way. The\nnests, cocoons, and chrysalids of insects may be\npreserved from injury from other insects by\nbeing soaked in the arseniated alcohol, or dip-\nped into benzine or a solution of carbolic acid\nor creosote.\n2. For spiders, puncture them and steep for\nseveral days in a strong- alcoholic solution of\npure phenol, and then in dilute alcoholic glyce-\nrine. Or use a saturated solution of salicylic\nacid in glycerine dry carefully.\nTaxidermy, Preparations for. Arsenical\nSoap. White arsenic, 2 lb.; white soap, 2 lb.;\nsugar in powder, 12 oz.; salt of tartar, 12 oz.;\nchalk in powder, 6 oz.; camphor, 5 oz. Slice\nthe soap, and melt in an earthen vessel, with\nwater, over a gentle fire, keeping it stirred with\na wooden spatula. When melted, put in the\nsugar, salt of tartar, and chalk. Remove from\nthe fire, and well stir and mix in the arsenic.\nThis soap should be kept in a well closed glass\nor earthen vessel.\nCorrosive Sublimate Solution. Corrosive\nsublimate, 1 drachm spirit of salt, 2 drachms\nspirits of camphor, 6 oz. Dissolve the sub-\nlimate in the spirits of camphor, and then add\nthe hydrochloric acid. This solution is chiefly\nused for the skins of quadrupeds, to the inner\nside of which it is to be applied with a brush\nor sponge before stuffing.\nPreservative Powder— White arsenic, 2 drms.;\ncorrosive sublimate, 2 drms.; nutgalls, 1 oz.;\ncapsicum in powder, y% oz.; sal ammoniac, y%\noz.; camphor in powder, 6 drms. Well mixed\ntogether.\nDr. Richardson s Powder.— Nut galls coarsely\npowdered, 2 oz.; camphor powdered, 1 oz.;\nburnt alum, 1 oz. Well mixed, and if used in\na hot climate, with the addition of 2 drms. of\neither oxy muriate of mercury or arsenic.\nOne of these powders is generally used for\ndressing the skins of birds.\nPreservative Compound.— Oak bark, pow-\ndered, 4 oz.; burnt alum, powdered, 3 oz.; sub-\nlimate of sulphur, 2 oz.; camphor, powdered,\n34 oz.; oxymuriate of mercury, oz.; well\nmixed. This compound is used for dressing\nthe skins of reptiles and fishes before stuffing.\nPreservative Baths.— Bay salt, 4 oz.; alum,\n2 oz.; corrosive sublimate, 3^drm., dissolved in\n1 quart boiling water, and when cold, strained\nthrough blotting paper. Or, one half spirits\nof wine and one half boiled water. These\nbaths are for the immersion of small reptiles,\nsuch as lizards, snakes, etc., which may be\nkept in them for an unlimited length of time,\nin glass bottles or jars well stoppered, or corked\nand cemented down. See also Bird. Skins.\nAnhydrous.— Free from water, that is not\nonly free from water in a state of mechanical\nmixture, but also as chemically combined.\nUnslaked lime for example, CaO, is anhydrous,\nbut mixed with water chemical combination\ntakes place and CaOHO results. Compounds\nof this kind are then said to be hydrated. The\nterm anhydride is used to designate an anhy-\ndrous substance.\nAniline. Phenylamine. A volatile or-\nganic base first noticed in empyreumatic bone\noil and afterward obtained from coal tar as a\nproduct of various processes attending the\ndestructive distillation of organic bodies.\nAniline, Solvent for.— In converting red\naniline into a dye for staining wood, a very\nweak solution of alcohol is sufficient to hold\nthe dye after it is once dissolved. In all pro-\nbability if the color is first dissolved in a small\nquantity of strong alcohol and then diluted with\nwood spirit, the result will be the same. It has\nbeen found by experiment that a very con-\nsiderable proportion of water can be added\nto the dye without causing the alcohol to\ndeposit it. Glycerine can also be used for dis-\nsolving aniline. A German writer says that\nthe aniline colors may be made to dissolve in\nwater by dissolving them in a solution of gela-\ntine dissolved in acetic acid. The aniline\ncolor is added to this solution, which is made\nlike a sirup in thickness. It is stirred until an\nevenly colored paste is obtained. Then the\nmixture is heated in a glue pot for some little\ntime.\nAnimals, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nAnimals, to Preserve. See Anatomi-\ncal Preparations.\nAn imatio n, Suspended.— Syn. As-\nphyxia. Causes. Various hence it has been\ndivided into four varieties, viz.:\n1. From suffocation produced by hanging and\ndrowning.\n2. From suffocation produced by the inhala-\ntion of irrespirable gases or vapors, as the\nfumes of charcoal, fixed air, etc.\n3. From strokes of lightning or electricity.\n4. From extreme cold. (Dr. Mason Good.)\nNo general rules can be given exactly suit-\nable to each case but the reader is ref erred to\nDrowning. Whenever it is possible to pro-\ncure medical aid, it should be immediately\nsought, as the delay of a single minute may put\nthe case beyond the reach of assistance. The\nfollowing valuable remarks on asphyxia, from\nthe pen of an eminent physician, may, how-\never, be well introduced here\nThe treatment of asphyxia involves an atten-\ntion both to the functions of respiration and to\nthat of the true spinal marrow. The object,\ndoubtless, is to effect a restoration of the\nrespiratory and circulatory functions, the for-\nmer of which has been arrested by the exter-\nnal conditions of the patient the latter, by the\ncontact of morbidly carbonized blood with the\ncapillary vessels of the lungs. The first thing\nto be attempted is the restoration of warmth\nby active friction with warm hands, etc.; the\nsecond, the imitation of artificial respiration,\nby any means at hand, of which none is better,\nusually, than the action of alternate pressure\nand its relaxation, applied to the thorax and\nabdomen, so as to induce expiration first, and\ninspiration immediately by the play of the\nelasticity of the ribs. The third effort is made\nby suddenly dashing cold water on-the face and\ngeneral surface, previously warmed by the\nfrictions, in the hope of inducing a more de-\ncided inspiration. Artificial respiration must\nbe attended to, if these measures, very prompt-\nly enforced, fail and unless the proper ap-\nparatus be present, the mouth of another per-\nson, of robust make, is to be applied to that of\nthe asphyxiated person, covered with a hand-\nkerchief, the nostrils being closed. (Dr. Mar-\nshall Hall.)","height":"4360","width":"2698","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0034.jp2"},"35":{"fulltext":"Anime.\n23\nAnts.\nAnime. See Gums.\nAnisette. See Iiiquors.\nAnnealing. For a small quantity, heat the\nsteel to a cherry red in a charcoal fire, then\nbury it in sawdust, in an iron box, covering\nthe sawdust with ashes. Let it stay until cold.\nFor a larger quantity, and when it is required\nto be very soft, pack the steel with cast iron\n(lathe or planer) chips in an iron box as fol-\nlows Having- at least half or three-quarters of\nan inch in depth of chips in the bottom of the\nbox put in a layer of steel, then more chips to\nfill spaces between the steel and also the half or\nthree-quarters of an inch space between the\nsides of the box and steel, then more steel\n.and lastly, at least one inch in depth of chips,\nwell rammed down on top of the steel. Heat\nthe whole to and keep at a red heat for from\ntwo to four hours. Ho not disturb the box\nuntil cold.\nAnnealing Chains.— Get your chain to a\ncherry red or bright red heat (it need not re-\nmain in the furnace or fire afterward), then\nbury in charcoal dust or fine ashes until\nthoroughly cold. Chains are generally made\nfrom best best iron, and are more liable to\ncrystallization than more common iron would\nbe, as it is purer.\nAnnealing Steel.— It is now recommended as\na good method of annealing steel to let it re-\nmain in the fire until red hot, as it heats more\nevenly, then take it from the fire and carry it\nto some dark place, allowing it to cool in the\nair until the dull red is no longer obvious in\nthe dark, and finally cooling it off in hot water.\nThis process is called the water anneal.\nWater Annealing.— First heat the steel to a\nred heat let it lie until nearly black hot, then\nthrow into soap suds. Steel treated in this\nway can be annealed softer than by putting it\ninto the ashes of a forge.\nAnnotta.— Annotto, Annatto, Annatta, Ar-\nnatto, Arnotto. A coloring matter forming\nthe outer pellicle of the seeds of the Bixa orel-\nlana (Linn)., an exogenous evergreen tree, com-\nmon in Cayenne and some other parts of\ntropical America, and now extensively culti-\nvated in both the East and West Indies. It is\nscarcely soluble in water, freely soluble in al-\ncohol, ether, oils, and fats, to each of which it\nimparts a beautiful orange color. Its most im-\nportant property is the affinity of its coloring\nmatter for the fibers of silk, wool, and cotton.\nAnodynes.— Medicines which prevent the\nincrease of pain and cause it to decrease.\nAnodyne for Stupefying the Senses.— Take 1H\ndrms. tincture lupuiine (hops), 1J4 drms. tinc-\nture henbane, 2^ 2 drms. camphor water. This\nis a substitute for opium, and where that can-\nnot be administered, a teaspoonful of this ano-\ndyne every two hours will answer.\nAnthrapurpurine.— A eolor closely con-\nnected with alizarine, discovered first by\nPerkin, and afterward independently obtained\nby Auerbach, under the name isopurpurine.\nWith appropriate mordants, it gives purer and\nbrighter reds than those obtained by alizarine\nalone. It is now always present in the so-\ncalled alizarine for reds.\nAntacids.— Medicines that neutralize the\nacid of the stomach, and thus tend to remove\nheartburn, dyspepsia, and diarrhoea. The\nprincipal antacids are the carbonates of potas-\nsa, soda, ammonia, lime, and magnesia. Am-\nmonia is the most powerful, and when the\nacidity is conjoined with nausea and faintness,\nis the best when great irritability of the coats\nof the stomach exists, potash is preferable;\nwhen accompanied with diarrhoea, carbonate of\nlime (prepared chalk) and when with costive-\nness, magnesia. See Absorbents.\nAnthelmintics.— Medicines that destroy\nworms.\nAnti-attrition. See Lubricants and\nAlloys for Journals.\nAntichlor.— Sodium sulphite. So called\nbecause it is used to remove the last traces\nof chlorine from paper pulp.\nAntidotes. See Poisons, Antidotes\nfor.\nAnti-ferment.— A substance sold in the\ncider districts for the purpose of arresting fer-\nmentation.\n1. It generally consists of sulphite of lime in\npowder, or a mixture of equal parts of the sul-\nphite and powdered mustard.\n2. Mix together 14 lb. of mustard seed with\n1 lb. cloves, and bruise them well without dry-\ning.\nUse. A portion of either of the above added\nto cider or perry tends to allay the fermenta-\ntion, when it has been renewed. The second\nmay be used for wine and beer as well as cider.\nCaution.— In the above the sulphite must be\nemployed, not the sulphate, which is quite a\ndifferent article.\nAnti-friction Metal. See Alloys.\nAnti-incrustations. See Incrusta-\ntions.\nAntimony, Butter of.— Thissubstanceis\nof great use in many mechanical operations.\nIt is obtained by the action of chlorine on anti-\nmony or by heating the trisulphide with mer-\ncuric chloride. It is diluted with alcohol, as\nwater causes a precipitation.\nAnti-rust Varnisb. See Varnisbes.\nAntiseptics.— The use of chemical anti-\nseptics has long been known, common salt be-\ning a very generally employed agent of this\nclass.\n1. Herzen s.— The quarter carcasses are soaked\nfor 24 to 36 hours in a solution composed of 3\nparts borax, 2 parts boracic acid, 3 saltpeter,\nand 1 salt, in 100 parts water they are then\npacked with some of the same. Before use\nthey need 24 hours 1 soaking in fresh water.\n2. Beiynoso s.— The meat is subjected to the ac-\ntion of compressed nitrogen, carbonic oxide,\netc. After being kept in this state for 40 days,\nthe freshness has been so maintained that blood\nhas flowed from the joints.\n3. Richardson s.— Dr. Kichardson made some\ntest experiments with meat treated with va-\nrious antiseptics under a temperature varying\nfrom 45° F. (7° C.) to 110° F. (43° C), for a period\nof 75 days. The results may be summarized\nthus: Methylene: preservation, good; color,\nimperfect. Methylal faint taint of decompo-\nsition. Cyanogen: preservation, excellent;\ncolor, perfect; structure, firm. Sulphurous\nacid some tainted color, dark. Sulphurous\nacid and lime juice some tainted color, in-\ndifferent. Sulphurous acid and glucose some\ntainted structure, dense. Nitrate of methyl\npreservation, good; color, yellowish; struc-\nture, firm. Formates entirely fresh, and ex-\ncellent in color.\n4. Estor s.— This consists in treatment with\nsulphurous acid and chlorine in succession.\n5. Gamgee s The animals are killed by inhal-\ning carbonic acid etc., and the carcasses are\nkept in an atmosphere of carbonic or sulphur-\nous acid. This does not prevent decomposi-\ntion where bruises exist.\nAntiseptic Soap. See Soaps.\nAnts, to Destroy.— Flour of sulphur, y 2\nlb.; potash, 4 oz.; set in an earthen vessel, over\nthe fire, till dissolved and united. Afterward\nbeat to a powder, infuse a little of the powder\nin water, and sprinkle in places infested by\nants.\nBlack, to Destroy— A few leaves of green\nwormwood, scattered among the haunts of\nblack ants, will drive them away.\nBed, to Destroij.-l. Powdered borax sprinkled\naround the infested places will exterminate\nboth red ants and black ants. Powdered cloves\nis said to drive them away. Another plan is to\ngrease a plate with lard, and set it where these","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0035.jp2"},"36":{"fulltext":"Aperients.\n24\nArrack,\ninsects abound. They prefer lard to anything 1\nelse, and will forsake sugar for it. Place a few\nsticks around the plate for the ants to climb\nup on. Occasionally turn the plate bottom up\nover the fire, and the ants will fall in with the\nmelted lard.\na. Use a small amount of oil of turpentine,\nrun into the cracks with an ordinary sewing\nmachine oil can.\n3. Set a quantity of cracked walnuts or shell\nbarks on plates, in the closet where these ants\ncongregate. The ants will collect on the nuts,\nin myriads. Turn nuts and ants together into\nthe lire, and put fresh nuts on the plates. Then\npowder camphor, and put in the holes and\ncrevices of the closet.\nAperients.— Under this head are commonly\nclassed all those substances and agents which,\nin moderate doses, gently, but completely,\nopen the bowels; and which, in this respect,\nrank between simple laxatives on the one\nhand and the stronger purgatives and cathar-\ntics on the other. Among these may be named,\nas useful examples. (Dissolve all in water.)\n1. Cream of tartar, 1 to 3 dr.\n2. Epsom salt, 1 dr. to 1 oz.\n3. Glauber s salt, J4 to 1\n4. Rochelle salt, 1\n5. Tasteless purging salt, J^ 1\n6. Sodium phosphate.\n7. Seidlitz powders.\nSeveral of the above substances in large\ndoses are active purgatives, or cathartics and\nmost of them, in small doses, are gentle laxa-\ntives.\nAphides? to Destroy.— To destroy com-\nmon plant lice (Aphides) and other insects in\nthe greenhouse and garden, the following\nremedy has been recommended by M. Cloetz,\nof the Jardin des Plantes, in Paris 3)4 ounces\nquassia chips, 5 drachms of stavesacre seeds,\npowdered and placed in 7 pints of water, and\nboiled until reduced to 5 pints. Dr. Hull re-\ncommends dusting slaked lime on the trees or\nbushes when the foliage is wet syringing with\nsoapsuds or tobacco water, or a strong decoc-\ntion of q uassia with soapsuds also a weak\nsolution of chloride of lime is said by Mr. An-\ndrews to preserve plants from insects if\nsprinkled over them. The following recipe is\nalso highly recommended in an English horti-\ncultural journal as being almost infallible for\nmildew, scale, mealy bug, red spider, and\nthrips 2 ounces flour of sulphur worked into\na paste with water, 2 ounces washing soda, }4\nounce of common shag tobacco, and a piece of\nquicklime about the size of a duck s egg,\nPour them all into a saucepan with 1 gallon of\nwater, boil and stir for a quarter of an hour,\nand let the whole settle until it becomes cold\nand clear. It should then be poured off, leav-\ning the sediment. In using it add water\naccording to the strength or substance of the\nfoliage. It will keep good for a long time if\nkept closed.\nAphorisms. See Photography.\nApothecaries Weight. See Appendix.\nAprons, Carriage, Dressing for.— Glue,\n2 parts white soap, 4 parts yellow wax, 1\npart neat s foot oil, 1 part lampblack, q. s.\nSoften glue, melt over water, dissolve soap in\nwater, q. s., and stir into the glue add wax\nin shavings, then oil lastly, black to color.\nAquafortis.— Nitric acid.\nAqua Reale. See Liquors.\nAqua Regia.— So called because it is a sol-\nvent of gold. It is made by adding 1 part of\nhydrochloric acid to 2 parts nitric acid.\nAquariums.— A small and well proportion-\ned aquarium might be about 20 in. long by\n4 in. wide by 14 in. deep. Make the frame of\nstout tin cut eight strips 14 in. long and four\nstrips 20 in. long. They may all be about\nin. wide now angle them in pair of clamps,\nand you have the required number for the\nframe, i. e., four uprights at 14 in.; a piece\nacross top and bottom at each end, l4 in.; and\nfour pieces, 20 in., for top and bottom at sides~\nsolder them firmly together, being careful to\nget the frame square. You had better strength-\nen the corners by angling some short pieces\nand soldering firmly over them; these will\nalso hide the joints. These pieces may be fanci-\nfully cut, unless you intend to case the frame\nafterward. Having put the frame together,\nyou should have a flange round the inside of\nthe bottom part. Cut a piece of galvanized\nsheet iron, rather stout in substance, to fit..\nBed it firmly in with red lead cement, red and\nwhite lead mixed like putty. Tack it here and\nthere with solder to the frame. Before put-\nting in the bottom make the holes and arrange-\nments for fountain and waste, also runaway,\nand whatever you require. You may now put\nin the glass, 28 oz., or even 21 oz. will stand the\npressure very well; but an accidental knock\nwould be fatal. If you can use plate it will be\nmuch better. Bed it firmly in with lead, solder\ntabs of tin or copper close up at top and bot-\ntom. Clear away the superfluous lead, which\nwill squeeze out between the frame and glass\nneatly, and let it set hard.— Eng. Mech.\nAquariums, Cement for. See Ce-\nments.\nAquariums, Sea Water for. See\nAquariums.\nAqua Vita?. A name now applied chiefly\nto brandy.\nArbor Diana?.— Being the materials for\nmaking a silver tree.\nDirections.— Dissolve the crystals in the blue\npaper in a tablespoonful of water, and add the\ncontents of the bottle to this solution and\nallow it to stand aside a little while, when it\nwill form a silver tree in full growth.\nMaterials.— dr. of silver nitrate wrapped\nin blue paper and 1 dr. of mercury in a small,\nflat bottle packed in a one dozen powder box\nin cotton wool. Label Poison.\nArchil.— A violet red, purple or blue color-\ning matter, or dye stuff, obtained from several,\nspecies of lichens, but of the finest quality\nfrom Koccella tinctoria, and next from K. fuci-\nformis.\nArenaceous.— That which has the proper-\nties of sand.\nArgentan. See Alloys.\nArgentin. See Alloys.\nArgillaceous.— That which has the pro-\nperty of clay.\nArgiroide. See Alloys.\nArgusoid. See Alloys.\nArmenian Cement. See Cements.\nArmy Worm.— Take a pail of water, with\na half gallon of salt well stirred into it with\na small broom or bunch of feathers sprinkle\nwell a row of corn just ahead of the bugs,,\ntaking care that the ground between the hills\nis well sprinkled with the brine. The bugs\ngenerally commence in a corn field on one side\nand go through from row to row with almost\nas much precision as the plowman plowing the\ncorn. This remedy is merely mentioned, as,\nshould the chinch bugs appear in various places\nin the field at once, the remedy would be of\nlittle avail, and the brine, if too strong, would\nundoubtedly injure the plants.\nAromatic Vinegar. See Vinegars.\nAromatique.— Spirit (90 per cent.) 50 grms.;\nsugar, 45 grms.; extractive matter, 4 grms.;\n(composed of cinnamon, cloves, galangal, zed-\nvary, angelica, anise), water, 81 grms. Recom-\nmended for all derangements of the digestive\norgans.— H ager.\nArrack. See Liquors.","height":"4360","width":"2698","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0036.jp2"},"37":{"fulltext":"Arsenic.\nBalm.\nArsenic, Simple Test for in Wall\nPaper, etc.— To identify the presence of\narsenic in wall paper, dissolve the coloring\nmatter off in a little ammonium hydroxide,\npour off this solution on a piece of glass, and\ndrop into the liquid a crystal of silver nitrate.\nA yellow coloration around the crystal indi-\ncates the presence of arsenic. This will answer\nas a general rule, but it is only a rough test.\nMarsh s test is better.\nArsenide.— A combination of arsenic with\na metal (including hydrogen) in definite pro-\nportion.\nArsenite.— A salt of arsenious acid.\nAsbestos.— The name given to several\nvarieties of amphibolic and augitic minerals.\nIt is now used to a large extent in the manu-\nfacture of non-conducting and fire-proof ar-\nticles, as boiler coverings, paint, theater cur-\ntains, etc.\nAshberry Metal. See Alloys.\nAsphalt.— Native bitumen.\nAsphaltum Liiquid.— 1. Scio turpentine, 2\noz., melt; add asphaltum (in powder), 1 oz.;\nmix, cool a little and reduce with hot oil of\nturpentine.\n2. (Wilson s.) Asphaltum, y 2 lo., melt add of\nhot balsam of copaiba, 1 lb.; and when mixed\nthin with hot oil of turpentine. Both are used\nas black japan or varnish and as a glazing color\nby artistsT\nAsafcetida. See Gums.\nAsteroids. See Pyrotechny.\nAsthma.— The most popular remedies for\nthis disorder are those used by inhalation, and\nexperience demonstrates them the most effect-\nive. The following formula has no superior\nDrachms.\nGrindelia 8\nJaborandi 8\nEucalyptus 4\nDigitalis 4\nCubebs 4\nStramonium 16\nNitrate of potash 12\nCascarilla bark 1\nThe ingredients should be in fine powder,\nand thoroughly dry before mixing. The com-\nposition is used by burning from one-fourth to\none-half teaspoonf ul, and inhaling the smoke,\nwhich is most conveniently done by using the\ncover of a tin box.\nAsthma Cigarettes.\nGrammes.\nTobacco 90\nExtract of stramonium 5\nIodide of potassium.. 5\nNitrate of potassium 5\nAlcohol 45\nMix, dry, and make a hundred cigarettes.\nAsthma Pastils (Danl. White Co., New\nYork), according to the analysis of Dr. Fleck,\ncontain 20 1 saltpeter, 3 5 impure scammon-\nium resin, 35 0 gum and sugar, 40 charcoal\npowder, leaves and stems of some plant.\nAsthma, For.— Dr. W. T. Plant, of Syra-\ncuse, N. Y., says an asthmatic neighbor of his\ngets much relief from inhaling the smoke of a\nteaspoonful of the following combination\nStramonium leaves, green tea dust, each, 4 oz.;\nlobelia, 1}4 oz.; mix together and wet up with\na saturated solution of nitrate of potassium.\nDry thoroughly and keep in a close can or well\nstoppered bottle.— Pharm. Era.\nAstringents. In Medicine. Substances\nthat constrict the animal fiber, and coagulate\nalbumen. When employed to check bleeding,\nthey are called styptics. The principal vege-\ntable astringents are catechu, kino, galls, and\noak bark; the principal mineral astringents\nare sulphate of iron, nitrate of silver, chloride\nof zinc, sulphate of copper, acetate of lead,\netc.\nDyeing. A numerous and important class of\nvegetable substances, indispensable in cotton\ndyeing the first operation of which generally\nconsists in saturating the cloth or yarn with\nthe extract or solution of some one of these\nbodies. They include, divi-divi, galls, sumac,\ncatechu, cutch or gambier, myrobolans,\nvalonia cups, pomegranate husks, hemlock\nbark, babool or bablah, kino, and others of less\nimportance. The value of these depends on\nthe presence of one constituent, tannin, which\nexists in them all, but in different propor-\ntions.\nAttrition.— The rubbing of bodies, one\nagainst another, so as to destroy the surfaces.\nAurantia.— A fine orange color, which is\nscientifically known as the ammonia salt of\nhexanitro diphenylamin. It is generally sold\nas a brick red color is soluble in water and\nalcohol. It dyes good orange shades on silks\nand woolens.\nAureosine.— An artificial dye of thephtha-\nleine class, first obtained by Bouchard t and\nGirard. It dyes light rose shades on silk, if in\na dilute solution, but if more concentrated\ngives a reddish brown. In either case the dyed\ngoods have a greenish yellow reflection.\nAutographs.— One of the best tests of au-\ntographs is the color of the ink. In genuine\nancient writings the fading of the ink is irregu-\nlar; in forged documents the ink has the same\ncolor throughout, and the most ingenious or\nforgers have been unable to overcome this\ndifficulty.\nAvoirdupois Weight. See Appendix.\nAwnings, to Remove Mildew from.\nSee Cleansing, Mildew.\nAwnings, to Waterproof. See Water-\nproofing.\nAxle Grease. See Lubricants.\nAyer s Pills.— Ayer s pills consist of pep-\nper, colocynth, gamboge (gutti), and aloes.\nAyer s Hair Vigor.— A solution of 0 6#\nlead nitrate.\nAzote.— Old name for nitrogen.\nAzuline.— A blue coloring matter produced\nby the action of a high temperature upon a\nmixture of aniline and rosolic acid. After\npurification it appears as a reddish mass, with\ngolden reflections. It produces upon silk and\nwool shades similar to those obtained from the\naniline blues.\nAzure. See Pigments.\nAzurine.— An aniline blue color of a very\ndeep shade, approaching to indigo. It must\nnot be confounded with azuline, which is dif-\nferent in shade, and prepared by an entirely\ndifferent process.\nBabbitt Metal. See Alloys.\nBadigeon.— Anything used by artisans to\ncover defects in their Avork. See Cements.\nBagasse.— The dry refuse stalks of the\nsugar cane, as they leave the crushing mill.\nOften used as fuel in the sugar houses.\nBaleen.— The fisher s name for whalebone.\nBall Clay. Impure variety of kaolin,\nusually containing more silica. Often called\npipe clay.\nBalloon Varnish. See Varnishes.\nBalls, Scouring. See Cleansing.\nBalm.— Primarily balsam (of which it is a\ncontraction) formerly and still properly ap-\nplied to anything assumed to be healing, sooth-\ning or genial in its action, particularly if also\naromatic or fragrant but chiefly to medicine\nand liquors supposed to possess these proper-\nties.\nBalm of Mecca Balm of Gilead\nBalsam of Mecca; Opobalsam.— A irr","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0037.jp2"},"38":{"fulltext":"Balm.\n26\nBath.\ngrant oleo-resinous substance obtained from\nBalsamodendron gileadense (Kunth), a tree\ngrowing in Arabia Felix, Asia Minor, and\nEgypt. It is the balm of the Old Testament.\nPure balm of Mecca is freely though not\nentirely soluble in rectified spirit, but it dis-\nsolves more or less completely in the fixed and\nvolatile oils, and the fats. Into these solutions\nit carries its fragrance and other properties.\nCosmetics, oils and pomades, emulsions, washes,\netc., may thus be readily impregnated with it.\nBalm Water. See Waters.\nBalsams. See also Gums.\nBates Anodyne Balsam. Laudanum, 1 part\nopodeldoc, 2 parts. Mix.\nAnt Balsam.— Dr. Livingston s ant balsam,\na German remedy, consists of 72 grns. castor\noil, 2 grns. balsam of Peru, and 5 drops oil of\nbergamot.\nBerlin Balsam, for cure of all kinds of sores,\nburns, cuts, wounds, ulcers, chilblains, etc.,\nis nothing but common glycerine contaminated\nwith a considerable amount of chloride of cal-\ncium.\nCamphor Balsam Camphor Liniment. 1.\nTake of spermaceti, 2 oz.; olive oil, *4 pint\ndissolve by a gentle heat. Add of camphor,\ncut small, 1 oz.; stir the mixture until nearly\ncold, and then put it into dumpy, wide-mouth-\ned phials, which should be kept well corked.\nOnly half the abo v^e quantity of camphor is\nsometimes used.\n2. As the last, but adding (with the camphor)\nof oil of origanum (thyme), 1 drm.; oil of rose-\nmary, drm.\nCanada Balsam.— The exudation of a fir tree\nAbies balsamea), grows usually in Canada.\nBalsam of Copaiva.—A light colored resin,\nused largely for ink, and in making varnish.\nBalsamic Cigarettes for Asthma, etc.— The Lon-\ndon Chemists and Druggists 1 Compendium gives\nthe following recipe: Soak strong, unsized\npaper in solution of saltpeter this dry, and\ntreat first with tincture of cascarilla, and after-\nward, when nearly dry, with compound tinc-\nture of benzoin cut into squares of a suitable\nsize, and roll into the form of cigarettes.\nCook s Balsam of Life is a filtered decoction of\n20 parts borax in 250 parts water, and \\y% parts\npulverized camphor in 1 liter of liquid. Used\nexternally for toothache and all skin diseases.\nBalsam of Flowers. French rose pomatum,\n12 oz.; French violet pomatum, 12 oz.; almond\noil, 2 lb.; otto of bergamot, J4 oz.\nGlycerine Balsam.— This is designed to whiten\nand soften the skin, remove roughness, chaps,\nchiblains, and irritations from common causes.\nTake white wax (pure), 1 oz.; spermaceti, 2 oz.;\noil of almonds, 9 oz. Melt together by moderate\nheat in a glazed earthenware vessel, and add\nglycerine (best), 3 oz.; balsam of Peru, oz.\nThe mixture is to be stirred until nearly cold,\nand then poured into pots. [Instead of balsam\nof Peru, 12 or 15 drops of attar of rose may be\nemployed.!\nA preparation used to soften and whiten\nthe skin, to prevent chaps and chilblains,\nand to remove the former when present. 1.\nTake of white wax (pure), 1 oz.; spermaceti,\n2oz.; oil of almonds, 14 pint. Melt them to-\ngether by a gentle heat, in a glazed earthen-\nware vessel add of glycerine, 3 oz.; balsam of\nPeru, y z oz. Stir the mixture until nearly cold,\nand then pour it into pots, or china or glazed\nearthenware boxes.\n2. As the last, but substituting 12 or 15 drops\nof attar of roses for the balsam of Peru.\nBalsam of Honey.— Take fine pale honey, 4\noz.; glycerine, 1 oz. Mix by a gentle heat, when\ncold add alcohol, 1 oz.; essence of ambergris, 6\ndrops citric acid, 3 drm. This is intended\nto remove freckles and discolorafions, as well\nas to improve the general appearance of the\nskin.\nCosmetic— 1. Take of finest pale honey 4 oz.;\nglycerine (Price s), 1 oz.; unite by a gentle\nheat when cold, add of rectified spirit, 1 fluid\noz.; essence of ambergris, ti drops and at once\nbottle it. Used to soften and whiten the skin,\nprevent chaps, etc.\n2. In the last, dissolve of citric acid (pure), 3\ndrm. Used to prevent and remove freckles and\ndiscolorafions.\nBalsam, Pectoral. Prep. Tincture of tolu\nand compound tincture of benzoin, of each, 2\noz.; rectified spirit, 4 oz. Mix. Use. As a pec-\ntoral in coughs and colds. Dose. A teaspoon-\nful.\nBalsum of Peru.— Prep, and source. Genuine\nbalsam of Peru is obtained by boiling the bark\nand branches of the Myrospermum peruifer-\num in water. It should possess the following\ncharacteristics Pur. and Tests. 1. Balsam of\nPeru should have a consistence and appear-\nance resembling treacle, and an aromatic odor\nbetween that of benzoin and vanilla.\n2. It should be entirely soluble in alcohol.\n3. It should undergo no diminution in vol-\nume when agitated with water.\n4. 1,000 parts of the balsam should saturate\nexactly 75 grains of pure crystallized carbonate\nof soda.\n5. Its sp. gr. should not be less than 1*150 nor\nmore than 1 100.\nBalsam of Tolu. This substance is obtained\nfrom the Myrospermum toluiferum, and when\nfresh, is a soft, translucent, tenacious, and\nresinous-looking mass, of a reddish or yellow-\nish brown color, a fragrant odor, and a sweet-\nish taste. It is perfectly soluble in alcohol,\nforming a transparent solution. By exposure\nto the air it becomes hard and brittle. It is\nfrequently adulterated, in which case it has a\nweaker smell, is less soluble in alcohol, and the\ntincture formed with that fluid is opaque.\nBaking Powder. See Powders.\nBandoline. See Hair, the.\nBarbotine.— A very thin slip, composed of\nclay and water.\nBarilla.— The name of an impure soda im-\nported from Spain and the Levant.\nBark 9 Jesuits Cinchona Bark.\nBarrels, to Age.— Dissolve 1-3 of a lb. iron\nsulphate and 1 lb. sulphuric acid in each gallon\nof water. For external use only.\nBarrels, to Cleanse See Cleansing.\nBarwood.— One of the hard class of red\nwoods. It is obtained from the western coast\nof Africa, especially from Angola and Sierra\nLeone. The wood is compact, and when\npolished shows an orange red color. When\nrasped, it is a rough, harsh powder of a red\ncolor.\nBasic Process.— The process of Messi-s.\nThomas and Gilchrist, by means of which the\nphosphorus and sulphur are eliminated from\nthe pig iron, in the Bessemer converter. It\nconsists of the substitution of magnesian lime-\nstone or dolomite, which is composed almost\nentirely of metallic oxide, and is therefore\nhighly basic, for the silicious ganister which is\nused as a lining in the acid process.\nBasil Vinegar. See Vinegar.\nBath.— As a dressing in the bath, 3 qts. of\nwater with 2 oz. of glycerine, scented with\nrose, which will impart a final freshness and\ndelicacy to the skin.\nSulphur Bath.— The patient is placed (not in-\ncluding the head) in a species of box, at the\nbottom of which is put a piece of hot iron, on\nwhich a little sulphur is thrown, great care be-\ning taken to avoid the escape of the fumes,\nand the inhalation of the same by either tne\npatient or the attendants.\nThe vapor bath consists in vapor being admit-\nted to the apartment, and thus not only is the\nbody immersed in it, but it is inhaled as well.\nIt is iised at different temperatures, known by\nthe name of lipid, when the temperature varies\nfrom 90° to 100° warm, when from 100° to 112 u t","height":"4360","width":"2698","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0038.jp2"},"39":{"fulltext":"Bath.\nBatteries.\nand hot, from 110° to 130° but when the vapor\nis not inhaled, the heat of the latter niay be\nraised to 160°.\nBath Metal. See Alloys.\nBath. Stone.— Bath oolite, a soft stone used\nin England for building- purposes.\npotash in hot water to saturation when cool,\npour in very slowly one-lif tb its volume of sul-\nphuric acid. For every gallon of solution add\nabout one drachm of bisulphate of mercury.\nThe solution should be made in an earthenware\nvessel. Great care is necessary in handling the\nacid and finished solution, as they are very\nBaths.\nSUMMER AND WARM WEATHER.\nTepid Baths, Fresh and Salt Water.\nTime in Bath. Frequency. Period in Day.\nHealthy people Ten minutes Twice daily Before breakfast and retiring to rest.\nWeak people Ten minutes Once daily Before breakfast.\nCold Baths, Fresh Water.\nHealthy people Ten minutes Twice daily Before breakfast and retiring to rest.\nWeak people Five minutes Once daily Before breakfast.\nCold Baths, Salt Water.\nHealthy people Ten minutes Once daily Before breakfast.\nWeak people Five minutes Once daily Two hours after breakfast.\nWINTER AND COED WEATHER.\nTepid Baths, Fresh and Salt Water.\nTime in Bath. Frequency. Period in Day.\nHealthy people Ten minutes Twice daily Before breakfast and retiring to rest.\nWeak people Ten minutes Once daily Before breakfast.\nCold Baths, Fresh and Salt Water, to he Taken in a Properly Warmed Chamber.\nHealthy people Ten minutes Once daily Before breakfast.\nWeak people Five minutes Once daily Before breakfast.\nDry friction with soft towels after bathing is of great service in promoting the circulation,\ncleansing the skin, and, if the bath has been a cold one, in preventing chills.\nBatteries. Approximate Resistance of.—\nVariations in the strength of solution and size\nof electrodes varies the resistance. For bichro-\nmate batteries without porous cells, 12 square\ninches of zinc to ampere may be allowed. The\nfollowing resistances are sometimes given\nGrove cell Yz ohm.\nDaniell cell 3 to 5\nGravity cell 2 to 4\nSmee cell 1\nLeclanche cell 1\nTo Reduce Current of.— Make a wooden reel,\nand wind uninsulated wire (German silver best)\nso as to leave a space between each turn. If\nthe current burns the wood, put strips of as-\nbestos under the wire.\nBichromate.— A. plunging bichromate bat-\ntery may be made by clamping together three\nplates (5 in. wide and 7 in. high), one of zinc\nand two of carbon, with intervening strips of\nwood previously soaked in hot paraffine. The\nzinc is placed between the carbons, and sepa-\nrated from them by strips of paraffined wood\nM inch thick, placed at the top. The plates are\nclamped together by two bars of paraffined\nwood, which project beyond the edges of the\nplates and are drawn together by two common\nwood screws so as to closely bind together the\nupper ends of the plates and the intervening-\nwooden strips. Before putting the elements\ntogether, the upper ends of the carbons should\nbe heated and tilled with paraffine for about an\ninch only. This is best done by rubbing on the\nparaffine while the carbon is hot. The zinc\nshould be amalgamated by dipping it into a\nsolution of nitrate of mercury. Connection is\nmade with the zinc and carbon plates by insert-\ning strips of sheet copper between the plates\nand the wooden clamping pieces. The zinc of\none element should be connected with both\ncarbon plates of the next element, and so on,\nand the first zinc plate and last to carbon plates\nshould be connected with the motor. The plates\nthus prepared are to be plunged into the bi-\nchromate solution, which is contained in glass\nor porcelain vessels. The solution is made in\nthe following way: Dissolve bichromate of\npoisonous and corrosive. The elements of the\nbattery should remain plunged only when the\nbattery is in use.\nTrouve s Solution for Bichromate Batteries.—\nThe proportional parts by weight are: Bichro-\nmate of potash, 1; sulphuric acid, 3; water,\n6 6. To charge a gallon of water, accord-\ning to M. Trouve s method, dissolve in it 24 oz.\n(1% lb.) of bichromate of potash, and then\nadd slowly, 72 oz. (9 lb.) of sulphuric acid, bear-\ning in mind that 8 fl. oz. equal 1 lb., not 16, as\nin dry measure.\nCarbons, to Out.— Carbons can be cut with a\nhandsaw moistened with water. Also by\nscratching deeply and breaking on the scratch.\nPlastic Carbon for Batteries.— Max Nitsche-\nNiesky recommends the following- in Neueste\nErftnduuy: Good coke is ground and mixed\nwith coal tar to a stiff dough and pressed into\nmoulds made of iron and brass. After drying\nfor a few days in a closed place, it is heated in\na furnace where it is protected from the direct\nflames and burned, feebly at first, then strong-\nly, the fire being gradually raised to white heat,\nwhich is maintained for six or eight hours.\nThe fire is then permitted to slowly go down,\nand when perfectly cold the carbon is taken\nout of the furnace.\nA Home-made Daniell.— The following method\nof constructing a voltaic couple, or a home-\nmade Daniell cell, may be of interest to the\nstudent: Select a small, round earthenware\njar, such as is used for keeping preserves, and\nhaving lined the bottom with gutta percha, or\nsome suitable cement, to the depth of in.,\nfix upright in this a rod of zinc, of equal height\nwith the jar, to which a length of copper wire\nhas been attached bypassing it through a hole\ndrilled in the upper part of the zinc rod, or by\nsoldering. Make a cylinder of pipe clay, or\nother porous clay, larger than the zinc rod, and\nhaving dried it, make it hot in the fire by de-\ngrees, till it attains a red heat. Let this cylin-\nder cool gently, and when cold place it in the\njar round the center rod, encircling it a little\ndistance. By moderately heating the end of\nthe cylinder it will, when placed on the gutta\npercha, make a groove which will fix the tube,\nand prevent infiltration of the fluids. Line","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0039.jp2"},"40":{"fulltext":"Batteries.\n28\nBatteries.\nd\nCO\n1\nd\n_j\nd\n1\nd\nEh\nS\nd\nS\n1\noS\n0\n-P\n-p\nd\nd\nd\n50\nr-H\na\na\n3\n43\n3\n43\n3\n43\ni\n2\n£2\nd\nbo\nbO\nbo\nd\nbo\nfl\nCO\nd\nCO\nCO\nd\n82\nco\nd\nCO\nbe\nO\nd\nd\nd\n43\nd\nS\n03\n.bo\n+3\n.bp\nsi\nSh\na\nCO\nft\np,\n.2\nrd\nO\n43\n-P\n43\n3\n+3\nd\nCO\n-(J\nd\nbo\nd\nbo\nd\n*H\nO\nSh\nP\nSh\nO\nSh\nO\nSh\nO\nbO\n1\nsT\nOh\nft\nO\nCM\nCI\n+3\nto\nft\n-a\n6\nSh\nO\n+5\na\nSh\nd\ne3\n+3\n43\nSh\n43\nfl\nSh\nO\nHH\nd\nO\n43\nd\nSh\nSh\n3\n3\n«H\nSh\nJ*\nO\nft\nd^\n03.9\nd\nSh\nft\nSh\nO\nd d\n03\nSH+3\nSh CO\nd d\no3t3\n11\n8.2\n8a\nSh\nd\nft\n+3\nbo\na\n3\nd\n.bp\n35\nCO\nft\n03\nSh\nbo\n+3\nCO\nH\nd\n.Sh\nB\nbo\nbo\nd\n3\nd\n.bo\nco\nCO\n,a\nft\ne3\nSh\nbO\n-P\nCO\nm\n■+3\n3\nSh\nd 2\n1-1\nd\nbo\nbo\nd\n3\nd\n.bo\n55\nco\n^1\nft\no3\nSh\nbO\n-*3\nCO\npq\n•+3\nd\n.Sh\nco\nO\nd\nHJ\nd\nd\nd\n43 CO\n2§\ntlbp\n3 03\n§a\np P\nd m\nIS\n1\n°9\nu\n^h CO\nd. d\nCO\nd\nHJ\nd\nd\nd\nM\nhp a\nd©\nd\n£bo\n3 e3\n§9\n-p\na co\nJo\n2\nr* CO\ndrd\nbo\na\nh3\n-d\n.bp\nS\n-p\n1\n43\nd\n.Sh\n•Sh\nd\n4-5\nd\n03.\n43\nCO\nd\nd\nbo\nfl\nh3\nrfl\n.bp\n43\nd\nB\nd\n43\nd\n03\n43\nCO\nd\n3\nbO\nfl\n43\nsi\nbo\n43\nm\n43\nd\nd\n43\nd\n03\n43\nCO\nd\nd\nO\n2\ni\n02\ni\nJh\n4J\n2\nu\nS\n+3\nfl\nC3\n43\nCO\nd\nW *h\nSn-d\n=H O\nSh r)\n©j:\nc3\n0©\n=1-H O\nSh 5\n03\nO©\ntla\nt*\nt:*\n+3\n02\nd\nH-i+3\nCO CO\nd\n0^\nd\nft\n0 s\n1\nCO\n5*3\n53\nSh\nSh\n1?\n03 1\nft\nO\n5\nft\nft\nft\nft\nft\nd\nd\n3\nCO\n02^\nft-o\n1\na\nO\nd\nd\nd\nSh ©1\noo^d\nft a\n«w d s-d\n■2 3\n■d\nfl\nSh\n03\n2\n5H\n03\n3\n9©\n-+3 03\n.2-2\n-p e3\n03\n3\n03\n3\nc3\n3\nfl\n.2^\n•tj3\no3\n1-5\nSh\n03\nd\nh3\n3 o3\n°9\nco O\n«h d\nO cSTJ\n8\nO\n3£\no-d\nco 3\nd^d\nco 3\n03\n03\nog-cd\n43 2 ^3\nS d r©\nS3\n2 s3\n03\n01\nold 03\nd\nrtf 02\nSo A 33\nd dd\n3 a\nco 5?\n3\nS*\n95.2\nss\nSh\n-P\nSh\n-P 0)\ns\na w ^.2 2\n-2-2 2\nSri\nO\na\nO\n3\n*l\n0-2 1\n.2 d\n03 Cu\n03 Qj\nis\nd\nd\nfl-e sn\nd\n-^-s\ns- d d\n53 9\nt?\n■^-s\n^3-P\n^rjPfl d\nHS «2 4i O-S\n.a 03 CO CO ft\nsh d\n-fl-^\n05\ngo\nft 53\n3*\ne3 d\n£o3\n.2° ft\nis\nft oJ\nd^\n■gcoo3\nQjOJ\n3^\nbe\nu\ncS\nsi\nO\nCQ\nCQ\ncq\nm\nEQ\nOQ\n02\npq\nCO\nCQ\n-d\nd\n03\nd\n•pH\n2\nd Sh\nd\n033\nc3 Si\n1\nc3\nas\n■d\nfl\nOS\n03\n03\nbO\nd\nS\n03\nc3\n«fH\nSh\n-P\n•a\nCO\nbO\nd\nSh\np\nj\n9g\nd\n03 9\nis?\nC 03\n2\nOS\nco\n3\nO\nsh\nO\nOh\nd\ns\n2\nd\n-p\n72 d\nd\n3 9\nC S\n0©\nd\n3^\nd\nCO\nd\nd\nftg d\n3^0\n3 5\ncd\n03^\n3 s3\n.2*\nd ftti\nS3|\n,ato?\n3©\nnd-^\n0,03\nfc\nm\n^5\nCQ\nGO\nCQ\nQ\nCQ\nd\nr\nSh\n•d\n•SI Q)\n03\n!fl\n3\n0©\nO\n43\nCO\nd\nSi-H\nSo\nIS\n03 d\n«8\na\na\na\nbo\n+3\nSh\nSh\n:d\n■d\na\nSh\n03\no3\n39\nSh T3\nSh\nft\nft\nO\nd\na\np?\nfl\nO\nf\ns\n3\nH\nft\nio\nO\nQ\nO\nft\nO\nd\n4\n43\ni#\na\nCO\ns\nft\n1\n«H\n1\n■+H\n55\n3\nO\n«4— 1\nO\n+3\n03\na\n6\n3\nis\nrd\nd\np\na5\nd\nSh\n■3\na\n•3 j\n3\nM+ 3\ni§\nCO\n.2\nsa\nSn.d\nnd\na\n3\n»fl\n.2 ft\nd\n03\nSh\nSh\nd\nd\n3\ngS\n4f\nCQ\npa\nA\nP\nO\nO\ncq\n4\nO\nO\nS","height":"4360","width":"2698","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0040.jp2"},"41":{"fulltext":"Batteries.\n29\nBeers.\nfihe inside of the jar with a plate of thin cop-\nper bent into cylindrical form and having a\nlew holes punched in it, through which may\nbe threaded the extremity of another length\nof copper wire. On the top of this cylinder\nplace a flat ring of copper pierced with holes,\nand nearly, but not quite, touching the porous\ncylinder. This forms the battery. To charge\nit, the Electrician gives a saturated solution of\nsulphate of copper poured between the copper\nand the clay tube, and some crystals of the\nsame salt are placed upon the perforated ring,\nso as just to be in contact with the solution.\nThe zinc compartment is then to be filled with\na solution of sulphate of zinc, sal ammoniac,\nor common salt.\nr,y.— A good effect can be obtained from a\npaste of plaster of Paris 1 lb.; oxide of zinc,\n34 lb.; saturated solution of chloride of zinc,\nenough to make a thick paste. They are very\ngood for medical coils.\n1 Filling for Dry Batteries.— Charcoal, 3 parts\nrpiineral carbon or graphite, 1 part peroxide of\nmanganese, 3 parts; lime hydrate, 1 part;\n■white arsenic (oxide), 1 part and a mixture of\n.glucose and dextrine or starch, 1 part all by\nweight. These are intimately mixed dry and\nthen worked into a paste of proper consistency\nwith a fluid solution composed of equal parts of\na saturated solution of chloride of ammonium\nand chloride of sodium in water, to which is\nadded 1-10 volume of a solution of bichloride\nmercury and an equal volume of hydrochloric\nacid. The fluid is added gradually and the\nmass well worked up.\nTo Make a Leclanche Battery. —Place in a\nporous cell a rod or plate of carbon, and fill\nthe cell with coarsely powdered black oxide of\nmanganese and clean coke or retort carbon.\nSeal the top, leaving two holes for the air to\nescape when the cell is set up. This cement,\nfor the top, may be made of black pitch. Place\nthe porous cell in any old jar of the same height\ncontaining a saturated solution of sal ammo-\nniac and a rod of zinc.\nAgglomerate Leclanches.— MM. Bender and\nFrahcken give the following recipe for mak-\ning agglomerate Leclanche cells: Manganese\nperoxide, 4A%; graphite,, 4$; gas tar, 9%; sul-\nphur, 0 6 water, 6*4. These substances, says\nthe Revue Scientifique, are reduced to a line\npowder— gas tar and water apparently includ-\ned they are then carefully mixed, placed in a\nmould, and strongly compressed. The mix-\nture is then gradually raised to a temperature\nof 350° C, which not only evaporates the water\nbut also drives off the volatile elements of the\n.gas tar. This result is aided by the presence of\nthe sulphur. A portion of the sulphur com-\nbines with the gases, derived from the tar and\n-disappears, while the remainder is said to com-\nbine with the solid ingredients, producing an\nunassailable compound, by a transformation\nanalogous to that of the vulcanization of India\nrubber.\nBattery Pomade, for checking the creeping of\nsolutions in cells parafOne wax, 2 parts vase-\nline, 1 part melted together. Egyptian as-\nphalt is good.\nSalt.— To prepare batter y salt for Grenet\nbatteries It may be prepared by triturating\ntogether in a dry atmosphere: potassium\ni dichromate, about 4 lb.; sulphuric acid, sp.\ngr. 1*8, about 1 lb. The dichromate should be\n1 perfectly dry, and the acid may, with advan-\ni tage, be warm. The mixture should be kept\nifrom the air in glass, to preserve it in the dry\n/State, as it is very hygroscopic. Its oxidizing\naction is so strong that it very quickly destroys\n.organic matters by contact at ordinary tem-\nperatures.\nBattery Solution.— Bottone s battery solution\n•consists of chromic acid 6 parts, water 20 parts,\nchlorate of potash y% part, and sulphuric acid\n3^ parts by weight. There is no danger, pro-\nvided the chlorate of potash be dissolved be-\nfore the sulphuric acid is added. The addition\nof chlorate of potash to sodium bichromate\ngives it greater staying powers but not so\nmarkedly as in the case of chromic acid, unless,\nindeed, a large excess of sulphuric acid is used\nto neutralize both the sodium and potassium.\nBandoin s Alloy. See Alloys.\nBauxite.— A hydrated aluminous ferric\noxide. It contains about 60 of alumina, 20\nof ferric oxide, 15 to 20 of water, and from\n1 to 3% of silica. It is a highly refractory\nbody, and is used in the manufacture of bauxite\nbricks.\nScale s Cement. See Cements.\nBearings, Brasses for. See Alloys.\nBear s Grease. See Pomades (Oils).\nBeaumontague or Bomontague,- This\nterm is applied in the shops to any compound\nemployed for the filling up of holes for pur-\nposes of concealment.\nBeauty. See Cosmetics and the Skin.\nBeef, to Corn. There are many recipes.\nWe give one. To each gallon of water add iy 2\nlb. salt, lb. sugar, y 2 oz. saltpeter, and y, oz.\npotash. Boil, skim, and when cold pour over\nthe meat.\nBeef Tea.— Bouillon, for Dispensing.— Con-\ncentrated extract of beef, 12 oz.; table salt, 3\noz.; essence or tincture of celery, iy oz. or 3\noz. respectively powdered arrow-root, iy oz.;\nessence of oiange or lemon, iy oz.; hot water,\n3 qts.; if desired about \\y dr. of tincture of\ncapsicum may be added. Dissolve the extract\nof beef, arrow-root and salt in hot water the\nother ingredients may then be added. Only a\nsmall quantity should be prepared at a time.\nBeef, Iron and Wine.— Liebig s extract\nof beef y oz. av\\, ammonio-citrate of iron 256\ngr., spirit of orange y 2 fl. oz., distilled water\n1\\4 A- oz., sherry wine sufficient to make 16 fl.\noz. Dissolve the ammonio-citrate of iron in\nthe water, dissolve the extract of beef in the\nsherry wine, add the spirit of orange and mix\nthe solutions.\nBeef, Iron and Wine for Soda Foun-\ntains.— Beef, iron and wine, 1 oz.; vanilla\nsirup, 3 oz.\nFor Dispensing. For 2 qts. concentrated ex-\ntract of beef, 2 oz.; pyrophosphate iron, y gr.\n(dissolve in y pt. boiling water). Add tincture\ncuracoa, 2 oz.; tincture orange peel, 2 oz.; sirup,\n12H oz.; alcohol, 12y oz.; solution citrate of\nammonia, 2 oz.; sherry wine, 23 oz.\nBeers.— Ginger Beer.—l. Jamaica ginger, 2y\noz.; moist sugar, 3 lb.; cream tartar, 1 oz.; juice\nand peel of 2 lemons brandy, y pint good ale\nyeast, *4 pt.; water, dy gal. This will produce\niy doz. bottles of excellent ginger beer, which\nwill keep twelve months. Boil the ginger and\nsugar for 20 minutes in the water, slice the\nlemons, and put them and the cream of tartar\nin a large pan pour the boiling liquor over\nthem, and stir well; when milk warm, add the\nyeast; cover and let it remain 2 or 3 days, skim-\nming frequently strain through a cloth into\na cask, and add the brandy. Bung down very\nclose; at the end of two weeks, draw off and\nbottle, cork very tightly. If it does not work\nwell, add a very little more yeast.\n2. Brown sugar, 21b.; boiling water, 2 gal.;\ncream of tartar, 1 oz.; bruised ginger root, 2\noz. Infuse the ginger in the boiling water, add\nyour sugar and cream of tartar when luke-\nwarm strain; then add half pint good yeast.\nLet it stand all night, then bottle if you\ndesire, you can add one lemon and the white of\nan egg to fine it.\n3. English. Ginger Beer.— 3 gal. water, 6oz. pul-\nverized ginger 4 lb. sugar 4 oz. cream tartar.\nBoil, and when cold add 2 tablespoonfuls of\nyeast. Allow it to stand over night, then filter\nand bottle.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0041.jp2"},"42":{"fulltext":"Beers.\n30\nBeers.\n4. Ginger Beer Po wder.— Jamaica ginger,\npowdered, 1 oz.; sodium bicarbonate, 7 oz.;\nsugar, 1% lb.; 1 n. dr. oil of lemon. Make into\npowders.\n5. Ginger Beer Powders. The London Chemist\nand Druggist says that a powder may be pre-\npared thus: ginger, bruised, 3* oz.; cream of\ntartar, oz.; essence of lemon, 4 drops. Mix.\nSome sugar may be added if it be thought de-\nsirable to make the packet look bigger. For use\nthis powder is to be added to a gallon of boil-\ning water, in which dissolve 1 lb. of lump\nsugar, and when the mixture is nearly cool two\nor three tablespoonfuls of yeast are to be\nadded. The mixture should be set aside to\nwork for four days, when it may be strained\nand bottled.\nHop Beer.— Water, 5 quarts hops, 6 oz. Boil\nthree hours, strain the liquor, add water, 5\nquarts bruised ginger, 4 oz. and boil a little\nlonger, strain, and add 4 lb. of sugar and\nwhen milk warm, 1 pint of yeast. Let it fer-\nment in 24 hours it is ready for bottling.\nLemon Beer. 1. Boiling water, 1 gal.; lemon,\nsliced, 1 bruised ginger, 1 oz.; yeast, 1 teacup-\nf ul sugar, 1 lb. Let it stand 12 to 20 hours, and\nit is ready to be bottled.\n2. Put in a keg 1 gal. of water 1 sliced lemon\n1 tablespoon ginger 1 pt. sirup 34 pt. yeast.\nReady for use in 24 hours. If bottled, tie down\nthe corks.\nMaple. 1. To 4 gal. of boiling water add 1\nqt. of maple sirup, 34 oz. of essence of spruce\nadd 1 pt. of yeast, and proceed as with ginger\npop.\n2. To 4 gal. of boiling water, add 1 qt. of\nmaple sirup, 34 oz. of essence of spruce, and 1\npt. of yeast. Let it ferment for 24 hours, and\nthen strain and bottle it. In a week or more\nit will be ready for use.\n3. Boiling water, 6 gal.; maple sirup, 134 qt.;\nessence of spruce, 4i oz.; add 1J4 pt. yeast.\nMolasses Beer. Take 14 lb. molasses l l 2 lb.\nhops 36 gal. water 1 lb. yeast. Boil the hops\nin the water, add the molasses and ferment.\nOttawa Beer. Sassafras, allspice, yellow dock,\nwintergreen, 1 oz. each wild cherry bark and\ncoriander, 34 oz.; hops, 34 oz.; molasses, 3 qt.\nPut boiling water on the ingredients, and let\nthem stand 24 hours. Filter, and add 34 Pt of\nbrewer s yeast. Leave again 24 hours, then put\nit in an ice cooler, and it is ready for use. It is\na wholesome drink, if it is used in moderation.\nPeruvian Beer, Carbonated.— To 34 gal. of\nsirup add 1 oz. of extract of cinchona or\nPeruvian bark. This may be flavored with 1\noz. essence sarsaparilla or root beer.\nRoot Beer.—l. To 5 gal. of boiling water add\n134 gal. of moiasses. Allow it to stand for 3\nhours, then add bruised sassafras bark, winter-\ngreen bark, sarsaparilla root, of each 34 lb., and\ny 2 pt. of fresh yeast, water enough to make 15\nto 17 gal. After this has fermented for 12\nhours it can be drawn off and bottled.\n2. Pour boiling water on 2V 2 oz. sassafras; 134\noz. wild cherry bark 2J4 oz. allspice 2)4 oz.\nwintergreen bark 34 oz. hops 34 oz. coriander\nseed 2 gal. molasses. Let the mixture stand\n1 day. Strain, add 1 pt. yeast, enough water to\nmake 15 gal. This beer may be bottled the fol-\nlowing day.\n3. Sarsaparilla, 1 lb spice wood, 34 lb.;\nguaiacum chips, 34 lb.; birch bark, lb.;\nginger, 34 oz.; sassafras, 2 oz.; prickly ash bark,\n34 oz.; hops, J4 oz. Boil for 12 hours over a\nmoderate fire with sufficient water, so that the\nremainder shall measure 3 gal., to which add\ntincture of ginger, 4 oz.; oil of wintergreen, 34\noz.; alcohol, 1 pt. This prevents fermentation.\nTo make root beer, take of this decoction, 1\nqt.; molasses, 8 oz.; water, 2J4 gal.; yeast, 4 oz.\nThis will soon ferment and produce a good,\ndrinkable beverage. The root beer should be\nmixed, in warm weather, the evening be tore it\nis used, and can be kept for use either bottled\nor drawn by a common beer pump. Most\npeople prefer a small addition of wild chei\nbitters or hot drops to the above beer.\nSpruce Beer.—l. Hops, 2 oz.; chip sassafras,\noz.; water, 10 gal. Boil half an hour, straii\nadd brown sugar, 7 lb.; essence of spruce, 1 c\nessence of ginger, 1 oz.; ground pimento,\nPut in a cask and cool, add 1J4 pt. of yeast,\nit stand 24 hours, fine, draAV it off to bottle.\n2. Hops, 8 oz.; chip sassafras, 2 oz.; water,\ngal. Boil half an hour, strain, and add bro\\\nsugar, 7 lb.; essence of spruce, 1 oz.; essence\nginger, 1 oz.; ground pimento, 34 Oz. Put in\na cask, and cool, add 134 pt. yeast, let it sta:\n24 hours, fine, draw it off to bottle.\n3. To 6 gal. of water add 1 pt. essence\nspruce 10 oz. of pimento 10 oz. ginger 1 j\nhops. After boiling about 10 minutes, add\nlb. of moist sugar and 22 gal. of warm wal\nWhen the ingredients are well mixed, and lu\nwarm, add 1 qt. yeast. Let it ferment 24 hor\nStrain and bottle.\n4. Sugar, lib.; essence of spi 1\ning water, 1 gal.; mix well anu\ncold add 34 a wineglass of yeast, anu\nday bottle.\n5. Essence of spruce, 34 pt-; pimento ai\nginger (bruised), of each, 5 oz.; hops, 34 lb-\nwater, 3 gal.; boil the whole for 10 minute?\nthen add of moist sugar, 12 lb.; warm water,\ngal.; mix well and when lukewarm add 1 pt.\nyeast. After the liquor has fermented f\nabout 24 hours, bottle it.\n6. Water, 16 gallons boil half, put the wa\nthus boiled to the reserved cold half, whi\nshould be previously put into a barrel or otl\nvessel; then add 161b. molasses, with a f\nspoonfuls of the essence of spruce, stirring t\nwhole together; add half pint of yeast, ai\nkeep it in a temperate situation with the bur.\nhole open for two days, or till f ermentatic\nsubsides then close it up or bottle it off, ac\nit will be fit to drink in a few days.\nWhite Spruce Beer.— 5 lb. loaf sugar a\ndissolved in 5 gallons of boiling water, thei\nfl. oz. of spruce are added. When almost co\nadd a gill of yeast. Place in warm place ai\nafter 24 hours strain through a piece of flann.\nand bottle.\nTable Beer.— Table beer of a superior quali^\nmay be brewed in the following manner, a pr\ncess Avell worth the attention of the gentlema\nthe mechanic, and the farmer, whereby tl\nbeer is altogether prevented from working ou\nof the cask, and the fermentation conduct!\nwithout any apparent admission of the exte\nnal air. I have made the scale for one barr«\nin order to make it more generally useful\nthe community at large; however, the sai\nproportions will answer for a -greater or h\nquantity, only proportioning the materials a\nutensils. Take one peck of good malt, groui\n1 lb. of hops, put them in twenty gallons\nwater, and boil them for half an hour; th\nrun them into a hair cloth bag or sieve, so\nto keep back the hops and malt from the wo\nwhich, when cooled down to 60° by Fahrt\nheit s thermometer, add to it 2 gallons of rt\nlasses, with 1 pint, or a little less, of good ye\nMix these with your wort, and put the wh\ninto a clean barrel, and fill it up with c\nwater to within six inches of the bung h\n(this space is requisite to leave room fori\nmentation), bung down tight. If brewed\nfamily use, would recommend putting in\ncock at the same time, as it will prevent\nnecessity of disturbing the cask afterw;\nin one fortnight this beer may be drawn t\nwill be found to improve. Eng. Mech.\nBeer Tonic. —Plain sirup, 22° Baume, 5 gz\noil of wintergreen, 2 dr.; oil of sassafras, 2\noil of allspice, 34 dr.; oil of sweet orange, 2 1\nMix the oil with 12 oz. of alcohol and add\nthe plain sirup. Then add 35 gal. of water\nblood heat, and ferment with sufficient yea\nTo this add 1 dr. of salicylic acid dissolved\nconjunction with 1 dr. of baking soda ir\nsmall glass of water. After it has ceased eff","height":"4360","width":"2698","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0042.jp2"},"43":{"fulltext":"Bees.\nm\nAmerican BotUc, be obst ™ted by it.-\nwarming, and theref n^ t ho\\/o condlt i on when\nno l also wheS retuS ngSentn^- ai mJess\nNeither rir 1,^ 8 i f daen to their hives\nrighteSg. Wefr^hgSsbv h?n thorou ^f\nmong them or fivrlSmfJfn b y blowing smoke\nn their hives 3 WhoS 1 8 rather violently\nive by Tmoke orloncustSnThf^T^ in a\nmlse is to fill their hSn?vH o thei J first im\n^mbs. 4. Bees in wL^ bafir lrom their\n§ing rapped IoSn?r w f hat I? constantly\nsh^oldlFout f?om amoL m f ±ew minutes\nBeetle- to Exterminate. Red lead\nar, equal parts, mix; r !nUe\nBell Metal. See Alloys\nSS^^tJfJ^gd be run with the\nBelting, to Cement. See Cem™**\n/iping- the inside unt hi i,-^?. ei% and finally\nline uponac oth wh l n ,f tha f\nelt. The pulley shV)iil/^i f ly restore the\nhe belting has Vpn^iJ? 6 clea ned also. If\n^ould be thrown aw?/ Weak and rotten, it\n-SSSS to o^SFfeSl sS? of a belt should\nre but laid off with 2toS f heT.i at by the\nbe made with a «m«.ii U boles ought\nistance f ronT the end? th£ Upch at a Proper\nmd the distances of th-™ V ize of the holes\nTidthof the belt The Sn?o Pendi n ou the\nensible,forthe holel£? fl nt a t^ wl is re P re\nular by it, and much la^tha nth e W\nThe end of the lace slioniri L th ls need\nsquare knot in the mfddfp n+- tied with a\nthe corners of the bSt whP»?-^ e out side, f or\n*posed and apt to whip ou are most\n.,ce does not looksonSt c Tym a be lt\nre put through an iSSSnn 7 h r P the end s\n■e belt from having SS?n? tying saves\n»e laces ought to he S oles made in\nom end to end, or as ne fl rii h Same thickness\nten happens that w?«?£ rly so as Possible. It\nthem P S shou d he kKS- f Gry hin S P°^\ndneverused fSi Mono- onS sbort belts,\nles must be mad^ e s Moreover, the\nd ?ottoom^n?o?them q p a i^ ances a P art\n6 belt, and none S5 J P^ y hole weakens\n=entiai should b?cut a n re no f a bsolutely\nw belts, should be 8 u2t?h5 laCG as weI\nghts on them before SpS by han gmg\n*7. neat s-fooToli is^bSt^nf g\nStfZsZne h inSTit^ the belt a the\nof tf e beKS d n l h t la ^g through one\nresponding hole or thi V^h through the\nh laying it T diagonally off to ?ho C Pl of the\nI the other enfoftK e i°n??h lett Now\n3 last used, and carrvft m^fh* roug:h the\nt he lacing on the inside of th h V st strand\ntrough the first hole used »nH e i assin\n7 off to the rio-ht S and lay Jt diagon-\ning throulhX holS olPtSSSt t0 PaSS the\ntke belt obh^^sr lfcf S t re\ntnen U r?^n% h h°ila^^ of the belt,\nward the center of thP S+ reverse order to-\nthe oblique sSaSi^andmkke^i^fh 3 8 11\nstrands double. Finally X* 11 t i ie msi\nlacing through the fliJt ffil tbe end of the\nward through an awlhole tnen™^ then out\ndown to cause it to hofd Th? w f mn ?ering it\nbe laced in a similar way Slde ist o\nSlipping of Leather Belt* -Th* a v\nbelts is a great annoyance not II sllD P in of\nby tightening. i Whpn n n i ways re medied\nmanded for a slipping tSlt tK^^ is de\nas whiting, sprinkled spariio.? v P n vd t e h r kn own\nPhc h a? io b 1S leaSt ^r^nTol^anT ^Taf.\nlea th^lna^SS^I^ ft s °on dries the\nto get it out of the TleKv^h lt is difl Bcult\nTT^e^S\nclose of Vork te tette^nd^ 11 af *er tne\nPlied when the belt is L?^!!^ the oil a P\nor wash a belt while st?S -h}/ dry lu Never oil\nIf iron-faced pulleys were kL n 1 the P ul leys.\nleather, there woufd rfefttfoT^ 8 a ed Wlt h\nslipping of belte. Zt of ten ?hS m plai nt of the\nto too much strain on the h iV 1 pin8 lsdue\nnomy in running w?dP bS? 1 tb J ere is eco\nthe usual practice M a n V ^-wider than is\nto do duty for a four S K th e incn belt has\nance of the opeffi 2nr T thS elt to the anQ oy-\nx 4. A Piece of rubbe?b2it?n e r J? in of the belt\nthe belt puUey of an iJfiSl! 1 tastened around\nfrom slipping n engme wjl1 keep the belt\nsideSS ^o?^^ cubbed on thein-\nary remedy in C ase?ofpmo PUjleys as a tempor.\nproper si JSlg fSd 1 puhSvf G th u h ^ith\nthere should not SSS^fc £5^^* in\nbe^t^uT ^d 8 mir^n f ^™b-\npartsoilof tu?pe2Sne?n«n^ together with 5\nvessel; then add fpaits oA^V eli covered\nand add 4 parts of yeHow w« v S l? W elJ melt\nstantly while meltin T-^ ax st ^ring con-\nwarm is added with 8 T hls mixture while\nmelted mixture of 15 nSSfW s tirr mg, to a\nof tallow, and the who^p i?«? h 0l i and 5 P art s\ncongealed. The miss 15Sf ,ff- a e until has\nupon both sides inawal p P ied t0 o]d belts\nbelts are in use, f r nY^Si t^ti^ when the\ninner side. By this s trea mPn ft u n the\nvery durable.- Chem tVuEffii he y become\nlubrication. ~entralhlatt. See also\nsayTruS frain sid? tn 7h A11 n 6 best belt makers\ned tha 3 3 mSre p wr A?, U ey nd jt cl£m!\nthan with the fle P sr s Se nlxtfhp e ^n nSmi ed\ngram of the leather L! 1 P uJJe V- The\nwhich enables it to hii^th a ve vety surface,\nwill the hard flesh sfil th e Pulley closer than\nflesh side to the pullev f oV m f 1 U ers run the\nd aub and stick up tteMtW and then\nresin to make it take hold h,,7th- b eswax or\nnpmical for the life of h J} 1S 1S not ec\nbke, and there is ahvavs mn A S unw orkman-\nin running machineri e °l les s iussiness\ntreated, instead of l heir v,? the be ltsareso\nwithout any attention as E S r years\ndo when run grain side tntL 11 1 SOmetimes\n4 oz.; precipitated oSi? Lin seed oil,\nd ry over a stove at °i inc oz and\nWhen thoi-ouffhlv d?v 1 ver 160 Fa h.\npumice powder and lnnu ghen y mean s of\ni ry as before and variSii?.^^ 1, eoatin\nvarnish. «*rmsn with amber or copal","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0043.jp2"},"44":{"fulltext":"Benedictine.\n32\nBeverages.\nBenedictine. See Liquors.\nBengal Lights. See Pyrotechny.\nBenzine.— An ethereal hydrocarbon, ob-\ntained in many ways, principally from the dis-\ntillation of petroleum. It is very useful in the\narts as a solvent and for the removal of grease\nspots, etc.\nTo Deodorize Benzine— 1. Shake repeatedly\nwith fresh portions of metallic quicksilver.\nLet it stand for 2 days, then rectify, or shake\nwith plumbate of soda (oxide of lead dissolved\nin caustic soda), then rectify.\n2. Digest litharge in strong solution of soda,\nand shake the benzine up with this.\n3. The Scientific American states that the dis-\nagreeable odor of benzine can be removed by\nshaking repeatedly with plumbate of soda,\nmade by dissolving oxide of lead in caustic\nsoda, and rectifying. Simply shaking with\ncharcoal and Altering will partially remove the\nodor.\nBenzoate.— A salt in which one atom of\nbenzoic acid is replaced by a metal or other\nbasic radical.\nBenzoic Acid.— A vegetable principle of\nfeebly acid properties, existing in gum ben-\nzoin. When pure it forms light and soft white\nscales of a sweetish acrid taste soluble in 25\nparts of hot and about 200 parts of cold water.\nAt a strong heat, it is entirely volatilized, and\nis deposited on any cold surface.\nBenzoin.— The balsamic resin exuded from\nincisions made in the stem of the Styrax benzoin,\na native of Sumatra, Borneo, Laos, and Siam.\nSeveral varieties of benzoin are in the market,\ntwo, however, are chiefly used in medicine, one\nin agglutinated masses, the other (from Siam)\nin tears, being the purer, and having the\nstronger odor. Odor agreeable and somewhat\nlike that of vanilla, but more balsamic. It\nfuses at a gentle heat.\nBenzol, True.— A peculiar ethereal hy-\ndrocarbon discovered by Faraday, among the\nproducts of the destructive distillation of\nwhale oil and other organic substances (1825)\nand subsequently shown by Mitscherlich to\nform the principal ingredient in the distillate\nprocured by the action of heat on a mixture of\nbenzoic acid and hydrate of lime. In 1849, Mr,\nC. B. Mansfield discovered its presence in coal\ntar naphtha, from which the benzol of commerce\nis now chiefly if not wholly obtained.\nBerries, Persian.— Known also as French,\nAvignon, and Turkey berries. These berries\nare the fruit of Bhamnus infectorus, B, saxa-\ntilis, B. amygdalinus, the dyer s buckthorn,\nsmall trees which grow in France, Spain, the\nMediterranean islands, and Turkey. The quality\nof the berries differs considerably according to\nthe locality where they are grown. Some of\nthe berries are large and greenish, while others\nare smaller, brown and wrinkled, the coloring\nprinciple in the two kinds being distinct.\nBeton. See Cements.\nBeverages. See Beers, Liquors and\nCordials, Waters, and Wines, etc., and\nthe names of separate drinks, as Punches,\nSherry Cobblers, etc.\nBounce, Cherry— To 6 gal. cherry juice add\nj-o gal. 80 ^spirit; 15 gal. Catalonia or Marseilles\nwine; V/% oz. essence noyau; 34 lb. cinnamon,\nground and infused in 34 gal. water J4 lb. of\ncloves, ground, infused in 34 gal. of water;\noz. of mace infused in y z pt. 95 alcohol. Mix\nall the above ingredients in a clean barrel, and\nadd 30 gal. sugar sirup, 13° Beaumur. Stir up\nall the ingredients well together, and filter\nalter 4 or 5 days. Make the color a little darker\nwith sugar coloring, an. to give a good shade\nadd a little archil.\nChampagne a la Minute.— Put into a pitcher\nor bowl 2 teaspoonf uls of carbonate of soda\nand about 2 oz. of finely powdered sugar;\npour upon these 1 quart of sharp cider, and\nyou have a very pleasant imitation of cham-\npagne.\nClaret Beverage.— To 1 quart of orangeade add\na bottle of claret and freeze as for iced coffee.\nCocoanut Beverage.— To 2 grated cocoanuts\nwith their milk add 2 quarts pure water place\nover the fire and boil for 5 or 6 minutes, stirring\nconstantly with a wooden spatula then strain\nthrough a hair sieve. Add to the liquid 12 oz.\nof pulverized sugar; mix well together and\nice. This is a delightfully cooling beverage.\nIced Tea or Coffee.— Make a strong infusion\nof tea or coffee fill a pitcher or bowl with\nbroken ice; upon this pour the infusion and\nsweeten to taste.\nIced Coffee Beverage.— Makel quart of strong\ncoffee, to which add 1 pint of simple sirup\nmix well and put into a freezer, and freeze just\nsufficiently to admit of its being poured into\nglasses for use.\nEgg FMp.—Beev, 1 pint eggs, 3 sugar, 2 oz.;\nnutmeg and ginger, sufficient. Break the eggs\ninto one-half of the beer add the sugar, and\nbeat well together then place it in a clean\nwarmer, and heat it over the fire to nearly the\nboiling* point, stirring it all the time, but do\nnot let it boil next add the other portion of\nthe beer and the spices, and mix well together.\nSome persons add a glass of spnits. Care must\nbe taken not to let it boil, as, if it does, the\neggs will separate.\nEgg Nog.— Take the yelks of 8 eggs, and beat\nwith them 6 large spoonfuls of pulverized loaf\nsugar when this is a cream, add the third part\nof a nutmeg, grated into this stir one tum-\nblerful of good brandy, and a wineglassful of\ngood Madeira wine; mix them well together;\nhave ready the whites of the eggs beaten to a\nstiff froth, and beat them into the mixture;\nwhen all are well mixed, add three pints of\nrich milk.\nEnglish Rumfiistian, Winter or Summer.\nWhisk well up the yelks of a dozen eggs, and\nadd them to a quart of strong beer to this is\nadded a pint of gin. Put into a saucepan half a\npound of loaf sugar, a grated nutmeg and a stick\nof cinnamon, and the yellow rind of one lemon.\nPour over these a bottle of sherry wine place\nupon the fire, and when the wine boils pour it\nupon the gin and beer; mix well and drink hot,\nor it may be cooled and iced.\nCooling Fever Drink.— Vinegar, 1 lb.; honey,\n2 lb. water, 6 lb.; mix.\nGerman Beverage.— -To 1 pint of orgeat sirup\nadd 3^ gill of rum, 1 gill Kirschenwasser, and 1\nquart of Seltzer water. Now ice.\nHolland Beverage.— Make a inch lemonade or\nlemon ice, and to every three quarts add 1 pint\nof the best Holland gin.\nImperial Beverage.— Pare off the yellow rind\nor zest from 1 fresh lemon add it to 1 quart of\ncream. Place upon the fire and bring it to the\nboiling point, stirring continually now remove\nand continue to stir until quite cold. Sweeten\nwith powdered sugar to your taste. Strain the\njuice of four lemons into china bowl, pour the\ncream slowly upon the juice, holding the vessel\ncontaining it 2 feet above the bowl stir well\ntogether, and let it stand two hours before\nusing it.\nJove s Nectar.— For 3 gallons, peel the yellow\nrind from 13^ doz. fresh lemons, very thin, and\nsteep the peelings for 48 hours in a gallon of\nbrandy; then add the juice of the lemons, with 5\nquarts of water, 3 lb. loaf sugar, and 2 nutmegs,\ngrated; stir it till the sugar is completely dissolv-\ned, then pour in 3 quarts of new milk, boiling\nhot, and let it stand 2 hours, after which run it\nthrough a jelly bag till it is fine. This is fit f or\nimmediate use, but may be kept for years in\nbottles, and will be improved by age.\nNarranada.— To 4 quarts of rich orangeade\nadd 2 lemons and 2 oranges, cut into thin slices\ncrosswise, and one pint Schiedam schnapps. Mix\nwell and ice.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0044.jp2"},"45":{"fulltext":"Bibra s Metal.\n33\nBile*.\n..Orgeat Beverage. -Blanch 1 lb. sweet and 1 oz\nbitter almonds put them into a stone mortar\nand pound them to a fine paste, with 1 wine-\nglassful of orange flower water then add and\nrub in by degrees V pt. rose water and IV, pt\npure water Strain through a hair sieve and\nadd it to 3 pt. simple sirup place it upon the\nfire and boil up for 1 minute, remove and bottle\nA tablespoonful of this added to tumbler of\nice water, soda, or Seltzer, is a pleasant and re-\nfreshing drink.\nSoda Negus.— Put 1 pt. port wine, with V± lb\nwhite sugar, y 2 doz. cloves, y A of a nutmeg grat-\ned into a saucepan; make it hot, but do not let\nit boil; pour it into a bowl, and upon the warm\nwine decant 2 bottles of soda water\nSpanish Beverage.— To lb. sugar and 6 oz\npounded almonds, as for orgeat, add 1 pt. grape\njuice and 3 pt water. Mix well together and\nfilter. It should then be iced.\nSpanish Beverage. To 3 pt. rich lemonade\nadd 1 bottle claret and M a nutmeg, grated\n1 urkish Beverage— Put any quantity fresh\nripe grapes, picked from their stalks, into an\nearthen pan, cover them with boiling water and\nset in a warm situation for four or five hours to\ninfuse, after which strain off the liquid, sweeten\nit to your taste, place in a freezing can and half\nfreeze. Grated pineapple prepared as above\nforms also a delicious beverage.\nWest India Tipples.-To a tumbler filled two-\nnSiwiT! 18 16 add a wineglass of brandy\nand fill to the brim with green lime juice. To a\ntumbler of punch add a teaspoonf id of extract\nof Jamaica ginger, and a little sirup of fine\nsugar. To a tumbler of ice cold water add the\njuice of three ripe limes, and sweeten to your\ntaste. These are very refreshing and health-\nful beverages for the hot season.\nBibra s Metal. See Alloys.\nBrickwork, Efflorescence on. —This\nwhite coating which is such a disfigurement can\nusually be prevented by adding oil to the mor-\ntar at the rate of 1 gal. to the cask of lime.\n-Linseed od or any oil not saline will do. If cement\nis used, an extra gaUon of oil must be used.\nWhen mcrustrations are once formed, nothing\ncan be done except to wash with ddute hydro\nchloric acid. J\nBicycles, Enamel for. See Enameling\nB C Z Cle Tires Cemeilt r. See Ce-\nmenis.\nBidery. See Alloys.\nBilberry Wine. See Wines.\nBilliard Balls, to Color. See Dyeing.\nBird Cages, to Paint. See Paints.\n^4- B K r u 1 i nie re V- Boil the middle bark\nof the hohy, gathered in June or July, for Tor\ni™iSr ter until it becomes tender then\ndrain off the water, and place it in a pit under\nstones. Leave it to ferment for two or three\nweeks until it forms a sort of mucilage which\nmust be pounded in a mortar, intoima^S\nwlter ^n^pi^m the h ds ^nnmg\nJK i u, o al1 the refuse is worked out; then\nlwVV n a n earthen vessel, and leave it for\nSS«ri5 Ve ^?r t0 ferment and purify itself!\nm?SptS ,o Bl dll e ay also be mad e from\n™S bemes V t t? bark of the wayfaring tree\nShnmS r v f W? 1 8 b a similar Process.\nn£S5?J n oflt stlc K to the hands, it may be\ntnm= V by me ans of a little oil of lemon bot-\nfn m Q S r K UI entine Vse To rub over twigs\nrWntS^ lrC S or sma animals. It is said to be\naiscutient when apphed externally.\nr-n?!? 1 Rocking, Food for.-6 parts\nmJ». P. arts pea meal, and 3 parts moss\n£S A h h 1S dried ground German moss\nseeoj. Add a very little lard, melted, and\nmolasses to sweeten. This preparation is put\nin a covered jar, after having been fried for Half\nTh- o h0 ^V bem f stii red a11 tbe time it cooks.\nThis will keep lor a length of time.\nBirds, Singing, German Paste for\nFeeding. -Blanched sweet almonds, 1% lb.-\npea meal 3 lb.; butter, 4^ oz.; a few grain! saf-\nf o r0 2M hone s Fo™ into a paste, and granu-\nlate by passing through a colander. The yelks\nof 2 eggs may be added.\nBird Skins, to Preserve.— Make an in-\ncision from the breastbone to the vent with a\nsmall piece of wood work the skin from the\nflesh. When the leg is reached, cut through the\nknee joint and clear the shank as far as possi-\nsible, then wind a bit of cotton wool on which\nsome arsenical soap has been put round the\nbone; do the same with the other lea-. Now\ndivide spine from root of tail, taking care not\nto cut too near the tail feathers, or they will\ncome out. Next skin the wings as far as possi-\nble and cut off. The skin will now be entirely\nclear of the body. The skin must now be turned\ninside out and the neck and skin gently pulled\nin opposite directions till the eyeballs are f ullv\nexposed. The whole of the back of the head\nmay be cut off and the eyes and brains taken\nout and their places filled with cotton wool\nlhe whole skin should be rubbed well with\narsenical soap or plain arsenic, and the neck re-\nturned to its natural position, when, after fill-\ning the body with a little dry grass or wool, the\njob is done. It is very easy, and the skin of a\nbird is much tougher than one would suppose,\nthough, of course, they vary, the night-jar being\n^R\\5 llln, wmle humming birds are fairly tough.\nAll the apparatus required is a sharp knife and\na pair of scissors, or, for large birds, a strong-\npair of nippers to divide the bones.\nBiscuit.— Term applied to ware before it\nhas been glazed.\nBishop.— To two bottles of claret add a\nquarter of a pound of loaf sugar, the thin yellow\nrind of an orange, and six cloves make all hot,\nbut do not aDow it to boil; then strain it\nthrough a hair sieve into a bowl and ice.\nHeidelberg Bishop.— To a bottle of red Rhine\nwine add 2 oz. of lump sugar, the thin yellow\nrind of a lemon, a small stick of cinnamon, and\nhalf a dozen of coriander seeds and wineglassf ul\nof Kirschenwasser warm all without boding\nand strain; ice.\nBishop, to Make— Procure a large, ripe, sound\nlemon pierce the same in various parts, and\nrub into the peel as much pounded white loaf\nsugar as will abstract a sufficiency of the essen-\ntial spirit of the rind into it. Introduce into\neach puncture a spice clove, and lay the lemon\nin a bowl. Have ready at hand, on the side of\nthe fire, a quart of the best port wine, scalding\nhot; pour the same into the bowl, over the\nlemon, adding sugar to your taste, and crown\nthe bowl with the whites of half a dozen eggs,\nwhipped up into a consistent froth.\nBismutli Bronze. See Alloys.\nBismuth, Purification of.— M. E. Smith\nadds to 16 parts of bismuth, kept in fusion\nat the lowest possible temperature, 1 part of\na mixture of 8 parts of cyanide of potassium\nand 3 parts flowers of sulphur. After fifteen\nminutes the metal is allowed to cool. Do not\ninhale the fumes.\nBismuth Solder. See Soldering.\nBites and Stings will generally be reme-\ndied by a paste composed of equal parts of\nsubnitrate of bismuth and glycerine. Treat-\nment.— It the part bitten shows any tendency to\nbecome inflamed, rub into it dilute carbolic\nacid— strength 1 part in 20. A piece of lint\nsoaked in the same should be placed over it,\ncovered with oiled silk, and secured by strap-\nping. At the same time internal tonics will be\nrequired, and the bowels must be rendered","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0045.jp2"},"46":{"fulltext":"Bitters,\n34\nBlacking.\nactive. The carbolic acid treatment is anti-\nseptic. The acid being absorbed kills the germs\nand bacteria, and so prevents putrefaction;\nbut it does not of necessity allay inflammation,\nsince the mechanism of the latter having been\nset going, it may depend on causes other than\nthe presence in the blood of septic material. If\nthe inflammation appears to increase, the best\nmethod of treatment will be to take of bread\ncrumbs so much as suffices to make a poultice\nfor the part then take a known quantity of\nhot water, and add. to it one-twentieth of its\nvolume of strong carbolic acid; to this add 1\ndrm. of tincture of opium and with this liquid\nmake the poultice.\nWasp and Bee Stings.— Examine the part with\na lens, and the sting will probably be found.\nRemove it with tweezers. Rub in some dilute\nammonia— 1 part of dilute liquor ammonias to\n3 parts of water— and then apply ice. If am-\nmonia is not at hand, chalk or carbonate of\nsoda may be used, or any alkali. If ice cannot\nbe had, a piece of lead, marble, or stone may be\nused.\nBitters.— Bitters are considered as tonic and\nstomachic, and to improve the appetite when\ntaken in moderation. The best time is early in\nthe morning, or an hour before meals. An ex-\ncessive use of bitters tends to weaken the\nstomach. They should not be taken for a longer\nperiod than a fortnight at one time, allowing a\nsimilar period to elapse before again having\nrecourse to them.\nAngostura. 4 oz. gentian root; 10 oz. each\ncalisaya bark, Canada snake root, Virginia\nsnake root, licorice root, yellow bark, allspice,\ndandelion root, and Angostura bark 6 oz. car-\ndamom seeds 4 oz. each balsam of tolu, orang-\netis, Turkey rhubarb, and galanga 1 lb. orange\npeel 1 lb. alkanet root V/% oz. caraway seed\n1 oz. cinnamon oz. cloves 2 oz. each nut-\nmegs, coriander seed, catechu and wormwood\n1 oz. mace 134 lb. red sanders wood and 8 oz.\nturmeric. Pound these ingredients and steep\nthem for fifteen days in 50 gal. proof spirit;\nbefore filtering, add 30 lb. honey.\nAromatic. Macerate 2% lb. ground dried\nsmall orange apples J4 lb. ground dried orange\npeel 2 oz. ground dried calamus root 2 oz.\nground dried pimpinella root; 1 oz. ground\ndried cut hops, for fourteen days, with 10 gal.\nof spirit at 45^ press, and add 234 pt. brown\nsugar sirup. Filter. Color dark Drown.\nBerlin Bitters. Dissolve in 3 qt. 80^ alcohol\nTr., 40 drops oil of juniper, 40 drops oil of cori-\nander, 20 drops oil of angelica, 20 drops badian\nseed oil, 22 drops oil of ginger; add 3 qt. of\nwater and 14, lb. of sugar to this solution. Filter\nand color brown.\nBolter s. 134 oz. quassia 1J4 oz. calamus 134\noz. catechu, powdered 1 oz. cardamom 2 oz.\ndried orange peel. Macerate for ten days in 34\ngal. strong whisky, and then filter and add 2\ngal. water. Color with mallow or malva flow-\ners.\nBrandy.— Grind to coarse powder 3 lb. gentian\nroot, 2 lb. dry orange peel, 1 lb. cardamom^\nseeds, 2 oz. cinnamon, 2 oz. cochineal. Infuse\nten days in 1 gal. brandy, 8 gal. water, and\nfilter.\nHamburg.— Grind to a coarse powder 2 oz.\nagaric, 5 oz. cinnamon, 4 oz. cassia buds, y 2 oz.\ngrains of paradise, 3 oz. quassia wood, oz.\ncardamom seeds, 3 oz. gentian root, 3 oz. orange\napples dried, 134 oz. orange peel. Macerate with\n434 gal. 95% alcohol, mixed with 5% gal. water\nadd 2-M oz. acetic ether. Color, brown.\nHostetter s.— The following is given as the com-\nposition of Hostetter s bitters Calamus root, 2\nlb.; orange peel, 2 lb.; Peruvian bark, 2 lb.; gen-\ntian root, 2 lb.; Colombo root, 2 lb.; rhubarb,\n8 oz.; cinnamon, 4 oz.; cloves, 2 oz.; diluted\nalcohol, 4 gal.; water, 2 gal.; sugar, 2 lb.\nOrange. Macerate 6 lb. orange peel for\ntwenty-four hours with 1 gal. water, cut the\nyellow part of the peel from off the white, and\nchop it fine macerate with 4% gal. 9„% alcohol\nfor two weeks, or displace then add a sirup\nmade of 434 gal. water and 16 lb. sugar. Filter\nthrough Canton flannel\nPeruvian. 8 oz. red Peruvian bark; 8 oz.\norange peel, 134 dr. each cinnamon, cloves and\nnutmeg, and 75 cayenne pepper seeds. Infuse\nthem, well bruised, in 8 gal. proof spirit, for\nfifteen to twenty days, stirring every day.\nDraw off and filter.\nSpanish.— Grind to coarse powder 5 oz. poly-\npody, 6 oz. calamus root, 8 oz. orris root, 234 oz.\ncoriander seed, 1 oz. centaurium, 3 oz. orange\npeel, 2 oz. German chamomile flowers; then\nmacerate with 4% gal. 95% alcohol, and add 5J4\ngal. water and 134 oz. sugar. Filter and color\nbrown.\nStomach.— Grind to a coarse powder 34 lb. car-\ndamom seeds, 34 lb. nutmegs, 34 lb. grains of\nparadise, 34 lb. cinnamon, 34 lb. cloves, 34 lb.\nginger, 34 lb. galanga, 34 lb. orange peel, lb.\nlemon peel; then macerate with 4% gal. 95$ alco-\nhol, and add a sirup made of 434 gal. water and\n12 lb. sugar Alter.\nWild Cherry.— Wild cherry bark, 4 lb.; squaw\nvine (partridge berry), 1 lb.; juniper berries, 8\noz. Pour boiling water over, and let stand for\ntwenty-four hours; strain, and again pour boil-\ning water on the ingredients; let macerate for\ntwelve hours, then express and filter through\npaper, so that the whole will make 5 gal., to\nwhich add 334 lb. of sugar, 134 gal. molasses, 6\noz. tincture of peach kernels, 3 oz. tincture of\nprickly ash berries, 2 qt. alcohol.\nWine. 1. Bruised gentian root, fresh orange\nand lemon peel, of each 134 oz.; white wine, 1\nqt.; digest for a week, and strain.\n2. Cinchona bark oruised, 8 oz.; white canella,\n134 oz.; juniper berries, lemon peel, and winter s\nbark, of each 134 oz.; carbonate of soda, oz.;\nMadeira wine, l%gal.; digest for a week.\n3. French lemon peel, lib.; dried orange peel,\n34 lb.; bruised gentian root, 34 lb.; Cape wine, 1\ngal.; as before.\nBitumen.— A name given to several of the\nhydrocarbons.\nBlack Ash.. Crude soda, ball soda. This\nis the first crude result of the decomposition of\nsalt cake, containing, besides caustic and car-\nbonated soda, lime, oxide of iron, carbon, etc.\nIt was at one time employed by bleachers to a\nlarge extent, but is now abandoned. It forms\nlarge blocks of a dark color, and is very readily\nsoluble, leaving, however, a quantity of insolu-\nble impurities. The name is sometimes wrongly\ngiven to alkali waste.\nBlackboards, Paint for. See Paints.\nBlack Florey.— Dried scum of the dyer s\nwood bath. A superior blue black.\nBlackings, Polishes, and Waterproof\nCompositions, Harness. 1. Properties\nof a good blacking are: That it makes the\nleather both soft and flexible and that it shines\nor polishes with slight friction. It is not manu-\nfactured as the ordinary boot and shoe black-\nings are, but where animal charcoal is used this\nsubstance is very often best prepared before\nuse, so that the phosphate of lime may be re-\nmoved, which otherwise would give an inferior\nblacking, and present a grayish tinge instead of\na black one. It is therefore advisable to treat\nthe bone black; 20 parts of it may be taken and\ntreated with 6 parts of pure hydrochloric acid,\nit is then allowed to stand for twenty-four\nhours, and 100 parts of boiling water added and\nallowed to settle. Draw off the liquid and then\ntreat the sediment with five parts of pure con-\ncentrated sulphuric acid; again stand by for\ntwenty-four hours, add another 100 parts of\nboiling water and draw off. When the sedi-\nment is deposited this residue is then nearly\npure and free from acid, and is capable of pro-\nducing a good blacking of a deep color. Other\nblacks that are frequently used are Frankfort\nblack and lamp black, which do not require the\nabove treatment. Berlin blue which has been\nfreshly precipitated also gives a most beautiful","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0046.jp2"},"47":{"fulltext":"Blacking.\n35\nBlacking.\ncolor of a metallic luster, but is more expensive.\nEvery blacking must also contain a substance\nwhich will cause it to adhere to the leather, so\nthat the color may become fixed. This is at-\ntained by the addition of a mixture of 2 parts\nof molasses and 1 part of glycerine; where gly-\ncerine is not used other substances take its\nplace, to render the leather soft. This is accom-\nplished by using one of the following oils, which\nare of a non-drying character: olive, sesame,\nlard, fish, seal, sperm but good cod liver oil of\nthe curriers answers better than all: white of\negg, isinglass and flour are injurious, as they\ngrow mouldy and will not keep, as well as pro-\nducing cracking. Kesin oil should also be\navoided as unfit for blacking. The following\nare some receipts for the preparation of various\nblackings, etc.\n2. Harness polish is made by breaking 4 oz.\nof glue in pieces and pouring over it 1 pint of\nvinegar. This is allowed to remain until per-\nfectly soft, then make another solution of 2 oz.\nof gum arabic and half a pint of black ink to\nmix add another half pint of vinegar to the glue\nsolution over a moderate fire, but do not ^et it\nboil. When it is dissolved add the gum solution,\nkeep at a temperature of 180° F„ and further\nadd 2 drm. of isinglass in a little water, then re-\nmove from the fire and draw off for use. It is\nto be applied by a sponge, and a very thin coat\ngiven, allowing to dry quick, which gives a\nbetter polish.\n3. Harness blacking is made by melting 2 oz.\nof mutton suet and 6 oz. of beeswax together,\nadd 6 oz. of sugar candy, 2 oz. of soft soap, 2}4\noz. of lampblack, y^ oz. of powdered indigo, and\nwhen thoroughly mixed add J4 pi n t oil of tur-\npentine.\n4. Waterproof harness paste is made by put-\nting into a glazed vessel 2 oz. of black resin,\nwhich is melted over a fire. When dissolved\nadd 3 oz. of beeswax, and when this is melted\nremove from the fire, then add 3^ oz. of fine\nlampblack, y% drm. of Prussian blue in powder.\nThese are stirred well together, and enough\nturpentine is added to form into a thin paste.\nAllow to cool, apply with a sponge, and finally\npolish with a soft brush.\n5. Another blacking is made by taking 34 oz.\nof isinglass, 34 oz. of fine powdered indigo, 4 oz.\nof soft soap, 5 oz. of glue, 4 oz. of logwood, 2 pt.\nof vinegar, oz. of ground animal charcoal,\nand 1 oz. of beeswax. The color of the logwood\nis to be extracted by putting it into the vinegar\nand applying a gentle heat, then strain it and\nadd the other ingredients, boil till perfect solu-\ntion takes place, and store up in glass or stone-\nware jars. This is very useful for army har-\nness.\n6. A good blacking for a working harness,\nwhich is to be applied with a sponge and pol-\nished with a brush, is prepared as follows, and\nshould be applied at least once a week. Melt 4\noz. of mutton suet with 12 oz. of beeswax, then\nadd 12 oz. of sugar candy, 4 oz. of soft soap dis-\nsolved in water, and 2 oz. of fine powdered in-\ndigo. This, when well mixed, is thinned out\nwith i^j pt. of turpentine.\n7. Blacking for harness. Molasses 8 oz., lamp\nblack 1 oz., 1 teaspoonful of yeast, sugar candy\n1 oz., olive oil 1 oz., gum tragacanth 1 oz., and 1\noz. of isinglass. To this is added a cow s gall,\nthen mix with 2 pt. of stale beer, and stand by\nthe fire for one hour.\n8. Another polish for carriage harness, which\nmust not be applied too frequently, as it is\nliable to crack the leather, is made from 3\nsticks of black sealing wax, dissolved in yi pt.\nof alcohol, and applied with a sponge, or a sim-\nilar one may be made by dissolving lac in alco-\nhol, and coloring black with lamp black.\n9. Harness that has become soiled can be re-\nstored by the use of the following French\nblacking: 43^ lb. of stearine, 6M lb- of turpen-\ntine, 3 oz. of animal charcoal. It is prepared by\nbeating the stearine into thin sheets, then mix-\ning with the turpentine, and heating in a water\nbath during continual stirring, then the char-\ncoal is added and the whole placed in another\nvessel and stirred so as to prevent its crystalliz-\ning. It must be warmed when using and\nrubbed on with a cloth as quickly as possible,\ngiving it a very thin coat, and when nearly dry\npolish with a silk cloth.\n10. Another blacking Molasses 8 parts, lamp\nblack 1 part, sweet oil 1 part, gum arabic 1 part,\nisinglass 1 part, water 32 parts. Melt all together,\nand when cold add 1 oz. spirits of wine, apply\nwith a sponge, and if required, warm it before\nuse by placing in hot water.\n11. Glue or gelatine 4 oz., gum arabic 3 oz.,\nwater pint. Dissolve by heat, and add of\nmolasses 7 oz., finely powdered animal charcoal\n5 oz., and then gently evaporate until the com-\npound is of the proper consistence when cold,\nstirring- all the time. It must be kept corked.\n12. Beeswax 1 lb., animal charcoal 34 lb.,\nPrussian blue 1 oz., ground in linseed oil 2 oz.,\noil of turpentine 3 oz., copal varnish 1 oz. Mix\nthem well, and form the mass into cakes while\nit is still warm.\n13. Add to No. 12, while still warm, soft soap\n4 oz., oil of turpentine 6 oz.; put into pots or\ntins while warm.\n14. A good blacking consists of hog s lard 4\noz., neatsfoot oil 16 oz., yellow wax 4 oz., animal\ncharcoal 20 oz., brown sugar 16 oz., water 16 oz.\nHeat the whole to boiling, then stir it until it\nbecomes cool enough for handling, and roll it\ninto balls about 2 in. in diameter.\n15. Soften 2 lb. glue in 1 pt. water dissolve 2\nlb. soap (Castile is the best, but dearest) in 1 pt.\nwarm water after the glue has become thor-\noughly soaked, cook it in a glue pot, and then\nturn it into a larger pot; place this over a\nstrong fire, and pour in the soap water, slowly\nstirring till all is well mixed then add 14 lb.\nyellow wax cut into slices let the mass boil till\nthe wax melts, then add 3^ pt. neatsfoot oil and\nsufficient lampblack to impart a color let it\nboil a few minutes, and it will be fit for use.\n16. 2 oz. shellac, 3 pt. alcohol, 143^ pt. fish oil,\n19 pt. West Virginia oil, 1 lb. lampblack, 1 pt.\nspirits of turpentine, 9 pt. coal oil the first two\nare combined, then the third is added, and all\nthe others are well mixed.\n17. English ball blacking for harness is made\nfrom 1 oz. of lard, 1 oz. of beeswax, 8 oz. of\nivory black, 8 oz. of sugar, 4 oz. of linseed oil,\nand 2 or 3 oz. of water; or it may be com-\nposed of 8 oz. of beeswax, 4 oz. of ivory black,\n2 oz. of Prussian blue, 2 oz. of spirits of turpen-\ntine, and 1 oz. of copal varnish. Melt the wax\nand stir in the other ingredients, and when cold\nroll into balls and use as required. Harness.\n18. Heat together over a slow fire, 2 oz.\nwhite wax and 3 oz. turpentine when the wax\nis dissolved, add 1 oz. ivory black and 1 dr. indi-\ngo, thoroughly pulverized and mixed stir the\nmixture until cold. Apply with a cloth, and\npolish with a shoe brush.\n19. An excellent oil for farm and team har-\nness is made of beef tallow and neatsfoot oil\nas follows Melt 3 lb. pure tallow, but do not\nheat it up to a boil then pour in gradually 1\nlb. neatsfoot oil, and stir until the mass is cold\nif properly stirred, the two articles will become\nthoroughly amalgamated, and the grease will\nbe smooth and soft if not well stirred, the tal-\nlow will granulate and show fine white specks\nwhen cold. The addition of a little bone-black\nwill improve this oil for general use.\n20. Melt together 8 oz. beef suet, 2 oz. neats-\nfoot oil, 2 oz. white wax, and 2 oz. pulverized\ngum arabic; add 1 gill of turpentine, and suffi-\ncient bone-black to give the whole a good color\nstir until thoroughly mixed, remove from the\nfire, continue to stir until cold, then roll into\nballs. To apply, warm the ball, rub it on the\nleather, and polish with a woolen cloth.\n21. Another kind is made of 2 oz. hog s lard, 8\noz. best neatsfoot oil, 2 oz. beeswax, 10 oz.\nivory black, and 8 oz. water. Heat the whole\nto a boil, remove from the fire, stir until suffi-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0047.jp2"},"48":{"fulltext":"Blacking.\n36\nBlacking.\nciently cool, and form into balls about 2 in. in\ndiameter.\n23. A third description is made of 2 oz. each\nivory black, copperas, and neatsfoot oil, 4 oz.\nbrown sugar, 4 oz. soft water, and 1 oz. gum\ntragacanth; boil until the water has evapor-\nated, stir until cold, then roll into balls or\nmould into cakes.\n23. A fourth is made of 34 lb. beeswax, 4 oz.\nivory black, 2 oz. Prussian blue, 2 oz. spirits of\nturpentine, and 1 oz. copal varnish melt the\nwax, stir in the other ingredients, and, when\ncool, roll into balls.\n24. Still another famous harness and saddlery\nblacking is made of 34 oz. isinglass, 34 oz. indigo,\n4 oz. logwood, 2 oz. soft soap, 4 oz. glue, and\n1 pint vinegar the whole is warmed, mixed,\nstrained, allowed to cool, and is then ready for\nuse.\n25. Mix 1 oz. indigo, 1 lb. extract of logwood,\n1 oz. softened glue, and 8 oz. crown soap (com-\nmon soft soap can be used if the other cannot\nbe had) in 2 qt. vinegar place the mass over a\nslow fire, and stir until thoroughly mixed. Ap-\nply with a soft brush, and use a harder one for\npolishing.\n26. Restoring Leather-covered Mountings.\nMelt 3 par-ts white wax, then add 1 part gum co-\npal, dissolved in linseed oil, and 1 of ivory black\nallow the mass to boil for five minutes, remove\nit from the fire, stir until cold, and roll up into\nballs.\n27. For the flesh side mix together 1 lb. prime\nlampblack and 12 lb. pure neatsfoot oil melt\n6 lb. good tallow, and add it while hot to the\nlampblack and oil. Mix well, and when cold it\nwill be fit for use.\n28. Another to lb. lampblack add 1 gal.\npure neatsfoot oil and 1 qt. vinegar black;\nallow it to stand twenty-four hours, and it will\nbe ready for use.\n29. Crown Soap Black.— Dissolve, over a slow\nfire, 1 lb. beeswax, 1 lb. crown soap, 3 oz. indigo,\n4 oz. ivory black, and 34 pt. oil of turpentine\nas soon as dissolved, remove from the fire, and\nstir until cold.\n30. Take 6 oz. turpentine, 3 oz. beeswax, 134\noz. ivory black, 34 oz. indigo blue, 34 oz. ink.\nCut the beeswax fine, pour the turpentine on\nit, let it stand covered five or six hours, and mix\nwell together to be kept covered.\n31. Digest 12 parts shellac, 5 white turpentine,\n2 gum sandarac, 1 lampblack, with 4 of spirits\nof turpentine and 96 of alcohol.\n32. For Russet Leather. Mix together 1 part\npalm oil and 3 parts common soap, and heat up\nto 100° F.; then add 4 parts oleic acid, and 1%\nof tanning solution, containing at least of\ntannic acid (all parts by weight) and stir until\ncold. This is recommended as a valuable grease\nfor russet leather, and as a preventive of\ngumming.\n33. Cordova Wax.— Mix together 134 pt. red\nacid (chromic), 1 pt. beer, 1 gill thick glue, 2 oz.\nivory black, and 1 dr. indigo boil for half hour\nand apply with a sponge.\n34. Wax Polish.— Melt together 1 lb. white\nwax, 1 lb. crown soap, 2 oz. ivory black, 5 oz. in^\ndigo, and 34 pt. nut oil dissolve over a slow\nlire, stir until cool, and turn into small moulds.\n35. French Polish.—}/*, lb. logwood chips, 34 lb.\nglue, 34 oz. indigo, 34 oz. soft soap, 34 oz. isin-\nglass boil in 2 pt. vinegar and 1 pt. water for\nquarter of an hour strain and bottle for use.\nThe leather must be freed from dirt, and the\npolish applied with a piece of sponge.\n36. Vaseline Harness Composition.— Prussian\nblue, in fine powder, oz.; lampblack, 4 oz.; mo-\nlasses, 2 oz.; soft soap, 2 oz. Mix together in a\nlarge Wedgwood mortar, previously warmed,\nand add: Vaseline, 6 oz.; ceresin, 5 oz.; yellow\nresin, 34 oz. Melted together then sufficient\nturpentine to give the composition the proper\nconsistency. Mix thoroughly.— Chem. and Drug.\n37. To preserve, harness and leather exposed\nto the action of ammonia given off in stables,\nand which causes it to rot, although it may be\nprotected by grease, is to add to the oil or fat\nthat is employed a small quantity of glycerine,\nwhich is said to keep the leather always soft and\npliable.\n38. Black Harness Lacquer.— Dissolve 40 parts\nof best shellac, 10 parts of sandarac, and 5 parts\nof mastic in 500 parts of spirits of wine. To\nprevent it from becoming brittle, add to the\nsolution 20 to 30 parts of Venetian turpentine,\nand finally sufficient aniline black (nigrosinej\ndissolved in water or spirits of wine to color.\n39. A waterproof liquid is made from India\nrubber in chips, 1 oz., and boiled oil 1 pt., dis-\nsolving by the aid of heat, then finally stir in\nanother pint of hot boiled oil. Another water-\nproof composition is boiled oil, 1 pt.; 2 oz. of\nbeeswax; 2 oz. of yellow resin, and melt all\ntogether. Or, take I pt. of salad oil, 4 oz. mut-\nton suet, 1 oz. spermaceti, 1 oz. white wax, and\nmelt together. Another is prepared from 2 oz.\nbisulphide of carbon, 34 oz. gutta percha, 2 oz.\nasphaltum, 34 oz. brown amber, 1 oz. linseed oil.\nFirst dissolve the gutta percha in bisulphide of\ncarbon, and the asphaltum and amber in the oil,\nand thoroughly mix together.\n40. A lacquer for harness makers is prepared\nfrom the following 5 parts of colophony lamp-\nblack, 1 part; mastic, 2 parts sandarac, 5 parts;\nshellac, 20 parts Venetian turpentine, 5 parts\nspirits of wine, 100 parts.\n41. Composition by Farnham of glycerine and\nother resinous substances used for forming a\nbase for a high polish, rendering it impervious\nto water and preserving the flexibility of the\nleather resinous substances by themselves are\nobjectionable, because in becoming dry they\ncrack and cause the leather to break, but by\nmixture with glycerine the composition formed\nexcludes the water and preserves the softness.\nIt is made as follows: 1 gal. 9i% alcohol, lib.\nVenice turpentine, 1 lb. gum shellac, 1 lb. gly-\ncerine, 4 oz. myrtle wax, and fine lamp or ivory\nblack to give color and consistency. It is pre-\npared by digesting the gum in the alcohol till\ndissolved, a portion of the glycerine is used in\ngrinding the myrtle wax, and a portion in grind-\ning the blacking so as to render it soluble in\nalcohol. Mix all thoroughly and apply with a\nsponge or brush castor oil may be used with\nthe glycerine resin for carriage tops and other\nwork where a brilliant polish is not required.—\nHarness.\nBlacking Metals.— Brass. The dead black\non optical, instruments is produced by -dipping\nin a solution of chloride of platinum. To\nmake this, take 2 parts hydrochloric acid, 1 part\nnitric acid, mix in a glass bottle and put in as\nmuch platinum foil as the acid will dissolve\nwhen placed in a warm sand bath, or to hasten\nthe solution, heat to nearly the boiling point of\nthe acids. 34 oz. nitric and 1 oz. hydrochloric\nacid will absorb about 30 grn. platinum, but in\norder to neutralize the acid, it is better to have\na surplus of platinum. Dip the article or brush\nin the chloride.\nLustrous Black on Brass.— Mix equal parts\nof copper sulphate and sodium carbonate. These\nsolutions must be hot. Wash the precipitate\nas it lies on the filter paper, and dissolve im-\nmediately in ammonia there should be an ex-\ncess of ammonia. Dilute the solution with\nwater (34), and add a small quantity of plum-\nbago, 20 to 50 grn., depending on the amount of\nsolution used, then heat to 100° F. The brass\narticles must be thoroughly cleaned and left in\nthis bath until they are black; wash well in\nwater and dry in sawdust. Prepare only as\nmuch solution as is wanted for immediate use.\nBlue-black Coating for Brass.— oz. copper\ncarbonate is dissolved in 134 Qt- of strong am-\nmonia. A precipitate is formed, and the solu-\ntion is diluted with 1 qt. water.\nBlacking for Optical Instruments and Other\nBrass Work—l.Fov dead black for inside of tubes\nuse alcoholic shellac varnish and lampblack,\nequal parts by weight, and thin with enough\nalcohol to make it flow freely with the brush.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0048.jp2"},"49":{"fulltext":"Blacking.\n37\nBlacking.\n2. Dissolve in 4% fl. oz. of ammonia Y oz. cop-\nper carbonate, stirring- constantly while dis-\nsolving. Add y z pt. water. The articles should\nbe suspended in this solution by brass or copper\nwires, for a short time. This coating- is durable\nin the open air.\n3. Optical and philosophical instruments made\nin France often have all their brass surfaces of\na fine dead black color, very permanent and\ndifficult to imitate. The* following, obtained\nfrom a foreign source, is the process used by the\nFrench artisans Make a strong solution of\nnitrate of silver in one dish, and of nitrate of\ncopper in another. Mix the two together and\nplunge the brass into it. Remove and heat the\nbrass evenly until the required degree of dead\nblackness is obtained.\n4. The best means of producing a black sur-\nface on brass, pinchbeck, or silver is said to be\nplatinum chloride, which is allowed to liquefy\nby exposure to the air. It is rubbed in with the\nfinger, or, best, with the ball of the thumb.\nAfter blacking, the object is washed and polish-\ned with oil and leather. Platinum chloride is\ndear, but a little of it will do a great deal of\nwork.\n5. Black Brasswork for Instruments. Take\nlampblack, about a thimbleful, and put it on a\nHat stone or smooth slate; add four or five\ndrops of gold size, and mix well with a palette\nknife, make the whole about as thick as putty\nmix weD. The less gold size there is the better,\nso that the lampblack just sticks together if\ntoo much gold size be added, the effect will be a\nbright black and not a dead black. Now add\nturpentine, about twice its own volume, to the\nwhole, mix with a camel hair brush, and apply\nto the brasswork.\nDull Black on Copper.— Brush over the copper\nwith a solution of platinum chloride diluted with\nlive times its bulk of water. When thoroughly\ndry rub off with an oiled flannel rag.\nBlack or Enameled Copper. Clean the copper\nthoroughly with sand and sulphuric acid, then\napply the following mixture: 3 parts white\narsenic 6 parts hydrochloric acid \\y 2 parts\nsulphuric acid water, 36 parts.\nGun Metal.— For blacking gun barrels, 2 oz.\nsolution of nitric acid, 4 oz. tincture of iron, 3\noz. spirits of wine, 3 oz. sweet spirits of niter, 1\noz. vitriol blue, IYq pt. of rain water. Scour the\nbarrel smooth; remove all grease with lime, then\ncoat freely with the mixture with a piece of\nsponge, but not so as to run about the barrel.\nLet stand in a cool place for about 10 hours\nthen remove to a warm room, and let stand till\ndry, when the rust will fly off, and not be sticky\nor streaky. The barrels are not dry, and must\nstand until quite dry, or the result will be a red\nbarrel. The scratching must be done with lard,\nthen boil for about 10 minutes take out and\nwipe inside and out; let stand till cool, then\nscratch to remove the dead rust wipe with\nclean rag, then coat with the mixture lightly\nlet it stand till dry. Scratch, boil, etc., as in first\ncoat for six coats, when the barrels may be fin-\nished by oiling.\nBlack on Gun Barrels.— First take chloride of\nmercury and sal ammoniac; second, perchloride\nof iron, sulphate of copper, nitric acid, alcohol\nand water; third, perchloride and protochloride\nof iron, alcohol and water fourth, weak solu-\ntion of the sulphide of potassium. These solu-\ntions are successively .applied, each becoming-\ndry before the other is used. No. 3 is applied\ntwice, and a bath of boiling water follows Nos.\n3 and 4. The shade of color is fixed by active\nfriction with a pad of woolen cloth and a little\noil. The shade thus obtained is a beautiful\nblack of uniform appearance. This process is\nused in the manufacture of arms at St. Etienne,\nFiance. We regret that the proportions of the\ndifferent ingredients are not given. Several of\nour gunsmiths have made many inquiries as to\nthe mode of producing the blue-black coating on\nthe Whitworth and other English rifles. Per-\nhaps the above solution will effect the object.\nThe alcohol is used to make the application dry\nquickly. The perchloride of iron and the sul-\nphate of copper in No. 2 should be used only in\na moderately strong solution, and only about 10\nof nitric acid added to the water. We hope\nthat our gunsmiths will meet with success in\nusing these solutions. No. 2 applied in three or\nfour coats will form the common brown coat-\ning for gun barrels. After the last application\nhas become dry it is rubbed with a wire scratch\nbrush, washed with warm water, then dried,\nand afterward rubbed down with a composi-\ntion of beeswax dissolved in turpentine.\nBlack Polish on Ironand Steel.— Oil of turpen-\ntine, 15 parts; sulphur, 1)4, parts. Boil together.\nPut a very thin coat on the article, and hold\nover the flame of an alcohol lamp.\nBlack having a Polish for Iron.— Pulverized\nasphaltum, lib.; gum benzoin, lb.; spirits of\nturpentine, 2 qts. If needed quickly keep in a\nwarm place, shaking very often. It can be\nshaded well with ivory black finely ground. It\nshould be used on iron exposed to the weather\nas well as interior work requiring a nice polish.\nApply with a brush.\nBlacking for Metal.— -1. Take 4 parts turpen-\ntine, 1 part gold size, or copal varnish. Add\nbest vegetable black till the whole is of the\nconsistence of thin cream. Grind and strain\nthrough muslin. Apply quickly once over the\nwork, with a soft haired brush, and dry off in a\nwarm room or hot closet. This is the Berlin\nblack used by stove grate makers. It is also\nused in some classes of optical instruments.\n2. Chloride of platinum painted on zinc gives\na very dead black.\n3. Vegetable or drop black, mixed with 6 parts\nof turps, 1 part japanner s gold size, 1 part tere-\nbine.\n^inc± to Blacken.— 1. Zinc may be given a tine\nblacK color, according to Knaffl, by cleaning its\nsurface with sand and sulphuric acid, and im-\nmersing for an instant in a solution composed\nof four parts of sulphate of nickel and ammonia\nin forty of water, acidulated with one part of\nsulphuric acid, washing, and drying it. The\nblack coating adheres firmly, and takes a bronze\ncolor under the burnisher. Brass may be stained\nblack with a liquid containing two parts of\narsenious acid, four of hydrochloric acid, and\none of sulphuric acid, in eighty parts of water.\n2. A Aveak solution of sulphate of copper, and\nthen with a decoction of logwood.\nBlacking for Boots and Shoes.— As\nthis is a subject on which numerous calls for\ninformation have been made in the Scientific\nAmerican, the greater portion of the receipts\nin Cooley and in the Workshop Receipts\nwill be published entire. The article on Leather\nPolishes in the fourth volume of Workshop\nReceipts is probably the most complete and\nreliable in the language. Many later receipts\ncollected from the journals have been added.\nLiquid.— 1. The well-known liquid blacking of\nDay Martin is prepared in the following\nmanner Very finely ground animal charcoal,\nor bone black, is mixed with sperm oil till the\ntwo are thoroughly commingled. Raw sugar\nor molasses, mixed with a small portion of\nvinegar, is then added to the mass. Next a\nsmall measure of dilute sulphuric acid is intro-\nduced, which, by converting into sulphate a\nlarge proportion of the lime contained in the\nanimal charcoal, thickens the mixture into the\nrequired pasty consistence. When all efferves-\ncence has subsided, but while the compound is\nstill warm, vinegar is poured in until the mass\nis sufficiently thinned then it is ready to be\nbottled for the market.\n2. Animal charcoal 5 oz., molasses 4 oz., sweet\noil oz. Triturate until the oil is thoroughly-\nincorporated, then stir in gradually J4 pint each\nvinegar and beer lees.\n3. Animal charcoal 1 lb., sperm oil 2 oz., beer\nand vinegar each 1 pt., or sour beer 1 qt.\n4. Bryant James 1 India rubber blacking. In-\ndia rubber in very fine shreds 18 oz., hot rapeseed","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0049.jp2"},"50":{"fulltext":"Blacking.\n38\nBlacking.\noil 9 lb. (1 gal.), animal charcoal in line powder\n60 lb., molasses 45 lb., gum arabic 1 lb., previ-\nously dissolved in vinegar, No. 24 strength, 20\ngal. The mixture is triturated in a color mill\nuntil perfectly smooth, then placed in a wooden\nvessel, and sulphuric acid is added in small suc-\ncessive quantities amounting altogether to 12\nlb. This is stirred for half an hour daily for\nfourteen days, then 3 lb. of finely ground gum\narabic are added, and the stirring is repeated\nfor an additional fourteen days, when the\nblacking will be ready for use.\n5. It has been proposed to treat the leaves\nand other portions of the mastic gum tree,\nPfetacia lentiscus, by decoction or distillation,\nprincipally to obtain from them a blacking\nwhich dries almost immediately after applica-\ntion, shines without the necessity of being\nbrushed, and is much less liable to soil the\nclothes.\n6. Acme Blacking.— To 1 gal. rectified spirit is\nadded 21 drm. blue aniline and 31 drm. Bismarck\nbrown aniline, the solution of the last two being\neffected by agitation for eight hours to twelve\nhours. After the solution is completed the\nmass is allowed to settle, and the liquid portion\nis drawn off by spigots above the sediment and\nfiltered if necessary. The alcohol is placed in\nthe apparatus first, then the colors, and the\nmixture agitated every hour for a space of 10\nto 15 minutes. Of this liquid 34 gal. is added to\nI gal. of rectified spirit, and in this are dissolved\nII oz. camphor, 16 oz. Venice turpentine, 36 oz.\nshellac. To 1 qt. benzine add 3£ fl. oz. castor\noil and If fl. oz. boiled linseed oil. The two\nsolutions are then united by agitation, but\nshould not be allowed to stand over two days in\nany vessel of iron or zinc, as in the presence of\nthe gums the colors will be decomposed by con-\ntact with zinc in eight days, and with iron in\neighteen to twenty-four days,.\n7. A quantity of ordinary starch is dissolved\nin hot water, and while still hot, oil or wax is\nadded; the mixture is stirred and ahowed to\ncool When cold, a small quantity of iodine is\nadded to give a bluish black color. To 1 gal. of\nthis are added 8 oz. of a solution of iron per-\nchloride, a small quantity of gallic or tannic\nacid (or both), and sometimes about 2 drm of\noil of cloves with 8 oz. glycerine. The whole is\nthoroughly stirred.\n8. Nicolet, of Lyons, prepares boot blacking\nby dissolving 150 parts wax and 15 of tallow in a\nmixture of 200 of linseed oil, 20 of litharge and\n100 of molasses, at a temperature of 230° to 250°\nF. (110° to 120° C.) After this, 103 parts lamp\nblack are added, and when cold it is diluted\nwith 280 of spirits of turpentine, and finally is\nmixed with a solution of 5 of gum lac and 2 of\naniline violet in 35 of alcohol.\n9. Hein, in Kaufering, makes another kind of\nshoe blacking by melting 90 parts beeswax or\nceresine, 30 of spermaceti and 350 of spirits of\nturpentine, with 20 of asphalt varnish, and adds\n10 of borax, 20 of lamp black, 10 of Prussian\nblue and 5 of nitro-benzol.\n10. Brunner uses 10 parts bone black, 10 of\nglucose sirup, 5 of sulphuric acid, 20 of train\noil, 4 of water and 2 of soda carbonate. The\nbone black and glucose are stirred with the\nacid in a porcelain vessel until the whole mass\nis homogeneous and has a shining black surface\nwhen at rest. The soda is dissolved in a little\nwater, and boiled with the oil under constant\nstirring until it forms a thick liquid then the\nother mixture is stirred into it. By varying the\nproportions of these two mixtures the blacking\nis made thinner and softer, or harder and\nfirmer. The substances sold as French polish\nare mostly composed of these ingredients. In\nthis and all other kinds of shoe blacking made\nwith bone b\\ack and sulphuric acid, the precau-\ntion must be observed of stirring rapidly and\nevenly after the acid is added, otherwise lumps\nwill be formed that are difficult to crush, and\nthe blacking will have a granular condition\nthat does not belong to it.\n11. A good liquid blacking may be prepared by\nmixing 3 lb. lampblack with 1 qt. stale beer and\n34 pint sweet oil, adding thereto 1 oz. molasses,\n34 oz. green copperas, and 34 oz. logwood ex-\ntract. This furnishes a blacking which polishes\neasily and well.\n12. Cheap and Good Shoe Blacking.— To 1 lb.\nbest ivory black add 1 lb. molasses, 8 tablespoon-\nf uls sweet oil, dissolve 1 oz. gum arabic in 2 qt.\nvinegar, with 34 lb. vitriol.\n13. Guttapercha.— To 30 parts sirup, contained\nin a boiler, add 9 of lampblack and 134 of finest\nbone-black, and mix the whole intimately to-\ngether. Heat 134 part guttapercha, cut into\nsmall pieces, in a kettle over a coal fire, until it\nis nearly all melted, add to it gradually, under\nconstant stirring, 234 parts olive oil, and when\nguttapercha is all dissolved, 34 part stearin.\nPour the latter mixture, while still warm, very\nslowly and gradually into the first mentioned\nmixture, and when the whole has been thor-\noughly incorporated, add a solution of 2 T 1 parts\ngum Senegal in 6 of water, likewise stirring.\nFinally, the product may be aromatized by\nthe addition of It s part rosemary or lavender\noils. This blacking produces a fine gloss of a\ndeep black. It is not injurious to^the leather.\n14. Take ivory or bone black, any quantity,\nand to every pound put 134 oz. measure of sul-\nphuric acid, and well triturate it. It will be-\ncome damp, like snuff. Next add cod oil, 2 oz.\nto the lb. If liquid add treacle, 3 oz. to the lb.,\nand small beer to mix, or stale beer if for paste,\nenough to make up into a paste. Foots sugar is\npreferable to molasses, and a better black is got\nby adding 34 oz. to the lb. of Prussian blue. It\nis improved if laid up light for a day or two\nafter first manipulation, and again after the\nsecond, as a decomposition takes place.\n15. A fine, brilliant, elastic dressing for leather\ncan be made as follows To 3 lb. of boiling water\nadd, with continual stirring, 34 lb. white wax, 1 oz.\ntransparent glue, 2 oz. gum Senegal, 134 oz.\nwhite soap, 2 oz. brown candy. Finally, add 234\noz. alcohol, and, after the whole is cooled, 3 oz.\nfine Frankfort black. The dressing is thinly\napplied to the leather with a soft brush, and\nafter it is dried it is rubbed with a piece of fine\npumice and polished with a stiff brush.\n16. 7 lb. each of ivory black and molasses, well\nmixed with 2 qt. boiling water add 2 lb. i0 oz.\nvitriol, and the previously thin liquid will be-\ncome quite thick. After the effervescence has\nceased add 1 pt. of any common oil— fish oil is\nthe best. If you want it liquid, add stale beer\nor vinegar.\n17. Useful blacking for leather may be made\nthus Dissolve 11 lb. of green vitriol and 5 lb.\ntartaric acid in 9 gal. water. After the settling\ndraw off the clear liquid then boil 16 lb. logwood\nwith about 18 gal. water and 11 gal. of the fluid.\nLet the boiled mixture stand for about eight\ndays, pour it off from the sediment, dissolve in\nit 2 lb. grape sugar, and mix this liquid with the\ngreen vitriol solution. The blacking so obtained\nmay be made still blighter by mixing the log-\nwood decoction with 4 lb. aniline black-blue\nbefore the addition of the vitriol. The appli-\ncation of the blacking is very simple. The\nleather is first well brushed with a solution of\nsoda, or still better, with ammonia, in 25\ntimes as much water, to get rid of the grease.\nThe blacking is then applied with the proper\nbrush for the purpose.\n18. Finishing Black.— Mix together 34 oz. each\ngelatine and indigo, 1 oz. logwood extract, 2 oz.\ncrown soap, 8 oz. softened glue, and 1 qt. vine-\ngar; heat the whole over a siow fire, and stir\nuntil thoroughly mixed. Apply with a soft\nbrush, and polish with a woolen cloth.\n19. Mix a quantity of bone-black with equal\nparts of neatsfoot oil and brown sugar, in pro-\nportions to produce a thick paste then with\nvinegar and sulphuric acid in proportions of 3\nparts of the former to 1 of the latter.\n20. Melt 2 lb. wax, and add 34 lb. washed and\nwell dried litharge by screening it through a","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0050.jp2"},"51":{"fulltext":"Blacking.\n39\nBlacking.\nX\nfine sieve then add 6 oz. ivory black and stir\nuntil cool, but not cold add enough turpentine\nto reduce it to a thin paste, after which add a\nlittle birch or other essential oil to prevent it\nfrom souring.\n21. A liquid black is made by mixing 3 oz.\nivory black with one tablespoonf ul citric acid,\n2 oz. brown sugar, and a small quantity of vine-\ngar, afterward adding 1 oz. each sulphuric and\nmuriatic acids; mix the whole together, and\nadd a sufficient quantity of vinegar to make 1\npt. in all.\n22. Vinegar, 2 pt. soft water, 1 pt. glue\n(fine), 4 oz. logwood chips, 8 oz. powdered in-\ndigo, 2 dr. potash bichromate, 4 dr. gum trag-\nacanth, 4 dr. glycerine, 4 oz. Boil, strain, and\nbottle.\n23. A German journal gives the following:\nMix 200 parts shellac with 1,000 of spirit (95$\nin a well stoppered bottle. Keep in a warm\nplace for two or three days, shaking frequently.\nSeparately dissolve 25 parts Marseilles soap in\n375 of warmed spirit (25#), and to the solution\nadd 40 of glycerine. Shake well and mix with\nthe shellac solution. To the mixture add 5 parts\nnigrosin dissolved in 125 of spirit. Well close\nthe vessel and shake energetically, and then\nleave the mixture in a warm place for a fort-\nnight.\n24. Ivory black, 6 lb.; molasses, 4 lb.; gum\narabic (dissolved in hot water), 2 oz.; vinegar, 2\ngal.; sulphuric acid, 2*4 lb.; India rubber dis-\nsolved in about 1 pt. of oil, 2 oz. Mix well to-\ngether. This blacking may be applied by means\nof a brush, or a small sponge attached to a piece\nof twisted wire.\n25. Boot Top Liquid. Oxalic acid, 1 oz.; zinc\nsulphate, 1 oz.; water, 30 oz. Dissolve, and ap-\nEly with a sponge to the leather, which should\nave been previously washed with water then\nwash the composition off with water, and dry.\nThis liquid is poisonous.\n26. A waterproof blacking, which will give a\nfine polish without rubbing, and will not injure\nleather: 18 parts beeswax, 6 spermaceti, 66 tur-\npentine oil, 5 asphalt varnish, 1 powdered borax,\nvine twig (Frankfort) black, 2 Prussian blue,\n1 nitro-benzol. Melt the wax, add powdered\nborax, and stir till a kind of jelly is formed. In\nanother pan melt the spermaceti, add the asphalt\nvarnish, previously mixed with the turpentine\noil, stir well, and add to the wax. Lastly add\nthe color, previously rubbed smooth with a\nlittle of the mass. The nitro-benzol gives fra-\ngrance.\n27. Without Vitriol.— Take of ivory black (in\nvery fine powder), 2 lb.; molasses, V lb.; sperm\noil, y± pt.; mix as before; then add of gum\narabic, 1 oz. dissolved in strong vinegar, pt.;\nmix well; the next day further add of good\nvinegar, or strong sour beer, 3 to 4 pt. (or q. s.);\nstir briskly for a quarter of an hour, and again\nonce a day for a week. Excellent.\n28. Ivory black, 7 lb.; molasses, 6 lb.; sweet\noil, 1 lb.; oil of vitriol, y lb.; water, q. s., as\nlast.\n29. Ivory black, 3 cwt.; crude molasses, 2 cwt.;\nlinseed oil, 3 gal.; oil of vitriol, 20 lb.; water, q.\ns., as last.\n30. Gum shellac, J4 lb.; alcohol, 3 qt.; dissolve\nand add camphor, oz.; lampblack, 2 oz. The\nforegoing will be found to give an excellent\ngloss, and is especially adapted to any leather\nthe surface of which is roughened by wear.\n31. 2 lb. of ivory black in fine powder mo-\nlasses, 13^ lb.; 34 pt- sperm oil Rub the black\nand oil well together, add the molasses and\nmix.\n32. 4 oz. of ivory black, 3 oz. coarse sugar, a\ntablespoonful of sweet oil, and 1 pt. of weak\nbeer; and mix them graduaUy together until\ncold.\n33. For Kid Shoes.— Gum shellac, 2 oz.; aqua\nammonia, 1 oz.; water, 8 oz.; black aniline,\nenough to color. Heat the ingredients slowly\ntogether (except the aniline) until the whole is\nnear boiling and the shellac dissolves. It may\nbe necessary to add a little more ammonia dur-\ning the boiling. Then add the aniline and\nwater (enough to make the whole measure 16\noz.)\n34. Liquid Dressing for Shoes.— Gum arabic, 4\noz.; molasses, V/ oz.; good black ink, J/£ pt.;\nstrong vinegar, 2 oz.; spirits of wine, 1 oz.; sweet\noil, 1 oz. Dissolve gum in ink, add the oil, rub\nthem in a mortar until thoroughly united then\nadd the vinegar, lastly the spirit.\n35. Liquid Stain Polish for Shoes.— Gum traga-\ncanth, 2 oz.; isinglass, loz.; beer, 1 gal.; glycer-\nine, lib.; extract of logwood, 2 oz.; powdered\ngalls, 1 oz.; copperas, 2 oz. Steep the logwood,\ngalls and copperas in the beer for some days,\nadd the glycerine, strain and dissolve the gum\nand isinglass in the mixture, and if necessary\nstrain again. This formula makes a prepara-\ntion suitable for light leather.\n36. French Dressing for Shoes.— Logwood ex-\ntract, 3 oz.; dissolve in 2 qt. of water.; borax,\n3 oz., dissolve in soft water, 2 qt., and add oz.\nshellac, boil to dissolve bichromate of potash,\n34 oz., dissolve in soft water, 34 pt., and add 3\noz. ammonia water, mix all together.\n37. The following is a -German recipe: Dis-\nsolve 3\\4 oz. of shellac in half a pint of alcohol,\nRub smooth 25 grains of lampblack with 6 drm.\nof cod fiver oil and mix. A few drops are to be\napplied to the leather with a sponge.\n38. Ivory black 50 lb., cod liver oil 1 gal., oil\nof vitriol 10 lb., powdered gum arabic or Senegal\n1 lb., molasses 4 gal., vinegar 15 gal. Grind to-\ngether the ivory black, gum and oil with a por-\ntion of the vinegar, add the molasses, and while\nstirring pour in slowly the oil of vitriol. When\nall action ceases, add the rest of the vinegar.\n39. Pour 1 qt. of alcohol of 95^ over y 2 lb. of\nruby shellac, close the flask hermeticaDy, let it\nstand in a warm place for two or three days,\nshaking it every day, until the shellac is dis-\nsolved. Then dissolve 1 oz. of dry Castile soap\nin 34 Pint of warm alcohol of 95#, add to it 1%\noz. of glycerine, shake thoroughly, and then add\nthis mixture to the solution of shellac. To give\nthe black color, dissolve 134 drm. of aniline\nblack, soluble, in 1 gill of alcohol, add this to the\nother mixture, close the flask hermeticaDy,\nshake thoroughly, and let the mixture stand in\na warm place for fourteen days before using it.\nTo cheapen it you may substitute solution of\nborax for the alcohol, but the product will dry\nslowly, and be far inferior in every way.\n40. Clausen s ink is made as follows Nutgalls,\n8 parts; logwood extract, 10 parts; boil together\nin water, q. s., and add Castile soap, 4 parts;\nglycerine, trace.\n41. Crooker s— Logwood extract, 6 oz.; water,\n1 gal.; ivory black, 1*5 oz.j glycerine, 1 oz.; bi-\nchromate of potassa, 0 125 oz.; copperas. 0*125\noz.; boil together.\n42. Sefton s— Orange shellac, 64 oz.; alcohol,\n5 gal.; pure asphaltum, 60 oz.; neat s foot oil, 1\npt.; lampblack, q. s.\n43. Ovington s— Water, 1 gal.; logwood ex-\ntract, 6 oz.; water, 1 gal.; borax, 6 oz.; shellac,\n1*5 oz.; water, 0*5 pt.; bichromate of potassa,\n0*375 oz. Mix the solutions, and add 3 oz. am-\nmonia.\n44. Shaw s— Borax, 3 oz.; orange shellac, 5 oz.;\nwater, q. s.; boil and add soluble aniline black\nor nigrosine, q. s. Rub the spots with strong\naqueous solution of ferric chloride, and dry be-\nfore applying the dressing.\n1. Automatic Blacking; Self-shining Black-\ning.— Gum arabic, 4 oz.; molasses or coarse moist\nsugar, 13^ oz.; good black ink, 34 Pt.; strong\nvinegar, 2 oz.; rectified spirit of wine and sweet\noil, of each 1 oz.; dissolve the gum in the ink,\nadd the oil, and rub them in a mortar or shake\nthem together for some time, until they are\nthoroughly united, then add the vinegar and\nlastly the spirit.\n2. Lampblack, oz.; indigo, in powder, 1 drm.;\nput them in a mortar and rub up with sufficient\nmucilage, made by dissolving 4 oz. of gum in 34\npt. of strong vinegar, to form a thin paste; add","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0051.jp2"},"52":{"fulltext":"Blacking;.\n40\nBlackiiisfc\nvery gradually 1 oz. of sweet oil, and triturate\nuntil their union is complete, adding the re-\nmainder of the mucilage; then further add V/z\noz. of molasses, and afterward successively 2 oz.\nof strong vinegar; alcohol, 1 oz.; lastly, bottle\nlor use.\n3. Mix the whites of 2 eggs with a table-\nspoonful of alcohol, 2 large lumps of sugar,\ncrushed, and sufficient finely powdered ivory\nblack to give the required color and thickness.\nSelf-shining Dressing for Shoes. Dissolve 8 oz.\ngum arabic in 8 oz. of best black ink, then add 2\noz. of olive oil. Mix thoroughly and then add 4\noz. strong vinegar, 3 oz. brown sugar, 2 oz. of\nalcohol.\nPaste blackings are also made in a variety of\nways, of which the following are the chief\n1. Bryant James India rubber blacking\nmay be made in a solid form by reducing the\nproportion of vinegar from 20 gal. to 12 gal.\nThe compound then only requires stirring for\nabout six or seven days in order to prepare it\nfor use, and it may be liquefied by subsequent\naddition of vinegar.\n2. Dr. Artus manufactures blacking from the\nfollowing materials Lampblack, 3 or 4 lb.; ani-\nmal charcoal, Yz lb.; are well mixed with glycer-\nine and molasses, 5 lb. Meanwhile gutta-percha,\n2Yz oz., is cautiously fused in an iron or copper\nsaucepan, and to it is added olive oil, 10 oz.,\nwith continual stirring, and afterward stearine,\n1 oz. The warm mass is added to the former\nmixture, and then a solution of 5 oz. gum Sene-\ngal, in li^ lb. water, and 1 drm. each of rosemary\nand lavendar oils may be added. For use it is\ndiluted with 3 to 4 parts of water, and tends to\nkeep the leather soft, and render it more dur-\nable.\n3. All ordinary paste blackings require to be\nmixed with some liquid before application,\ncausing considerable waste. It is claimed for\nthe subjoined method of preparation, that by\nits means the blacking is rendered of such a\ncondition that when merely dipped in water or\nother solvents the required quantity can be\nrubbed on to the article to be blacked without\nthe cake crumbling or breaking up. The in-\ngredients of the blacking are those in ordinary\nuse, but it is brought to the required consist-\nence by combination with Russian tallow, in\nthe proportion of 3%, and casting the mass into\nthe desired forms. These may be cylindrical,\netc., and may be inclosed in covers of card-\nboard, tinfoil, etc., in which the blacking can\nslide, so that when one end is pushed out for\nuse, the remainder acts as a handle. The ex-\nposed end when damped by immersion or\notherwise can be rubbed on the article without\ncrumbling. The ivory black, animal charcoal,\nwhich has been used in the preparation of white\nparaffin, according to Letchford Nation s\npatent, may be conveniently used for making-\nblacking.\n4. The addition of sulphuric acid to animal\ncharcoal and sugar produces lime sulphate and\na soluble acid lime phosphate, which make a\ntenacious paste. Thus: Animal charcoal, 8\nparts; molasses, 4 parts; hydrochloric acid, 1\npart; sulphuric acid, 2 parts. These are well\nmixed. A liquid blacking may be produced\nfrom this by the addition of the necessary pro-\nportion of water.\n5. Fuller s earth, 8 oz.; molasses, 3 lb.; animal\ncharcoal, 2 lb.; butter scrapings, 4 oz.; rapeseed\noil, 4 oz.; strong gum water, Yz pt.; powdered\nPrussian blue, Yz oz.; commercial sulphuric\nacid, 8 oz. If the blacking is required in a liquid\nform, add Yz gal. vinegar.\n6. To 1 lb. animal charcoal add 4 oz. commer-\ncial sulphuric acid work them well together,\nand when the acid has done its duty upon the\ncharcoal add 4 oz. fish or colza oil stir the mix-\nture till the oil is thoroughly incorporated, then\npour in gradually a strong solution of washing\nsoda or other suitable antacid, and continue the\nstirring till ebullition ceases or the acid is\nneutralized. Next add about 8 oz. molasses, and\nthen pour in a solution of gelatine and glycerine,\nin quantity about 2 qt. if liquid blacking is re-\nquired, but less will suffice to produce paste.\nThe solution of glycerine and gelatine is made\nby dissolving the best size in hot water, in the\nproportion of 4 parts water to 1 part of size,\nand then adding to every qt, of the liquid lYz\noz. glycerine. The addition of the glycerine\nand gelatine preparation gives great brilliancy,\ndepth of color, and permanency to the blacking\nwhen applied to leather, and at the same time\nmakes it damp proof besides which the antacid\nhas the effect of neutralizing the sulphuric\nacid employed, and thus prevents the injurious\naction of that acid on the leather, as in the\ncase of most ordinary blackings.\n7. Soften 1 part white glue in water, add 3\nparts crown soap, and heat the whole over a\nslow fire until the glue is thoroughly dissolved\nmoisten 3 parts bone black with vinegar, and\nmix it with 1 part wheat starch, beaten smooth\nin cold water; mix the whole and allow it to\nstand over a slow fire for half hour, stirring it\nall the time then turn it into another kettle\nand stir until it is cold. To use, dissolve a small\nquantity in sour beer or vinegar, and apply\nwith a brush, spreading it as thinly as possible.\n8. A leather varnish or polish is prepared by\nGunther, of Berlin, by mixing a filtered solu-\ntion of 80 parts shellac in 15 parts of alcohol,\nwith 3 parts of wax, 2 parts of castor oil, and a\nsufficient quantity of pigment. The mixture is\nevaporated in vacuo to a sirup. The varnish is\napplied to the leather with a brush moistened\nwith alcohol or with a colorless alcoholic var-\nnish.\n9. Soften 2 lb. good glue, and melt it in an\nordinary glue kettle then dissolve 2 lb. Castile\nsoap in warm water and pour it into the glue\nstir until well mixed, and add Yz lb. yellow wax\ncut into small pieces; stir well until the wax is\nmelted, then add Y2 Pt. neats foot oil and\nenough lampblack to give the desired color.\nWhen thoroughly mixed, it is ready for use.\n10. Molasses, 1 lb.; ivory black, V/a lb.; sweet\noil, 2 oz.; rub together as before, then add a\nlittle lemon juice or strong vinegar.\n11. Ivory black, 2 lb.; molasses, 1 lb.; olive oil\nand oil of vitriol, of each Ya lb.; water, q. s. as\nbefore.\n12. Ivory black, 28 lb.; molasses, 21 lb.; com-\nmon oil, 1 qt.; oil of vitriol, 3 lb.; water, q. s.\n13. Ivory black, 3 cwt. molasses, 2 cwt.; lin-\nseed oil and vinegar bottoms, of each 3 gal.; oil\nof vitriol, 34 cwt.; wate., q. s.\n14. Ivoi-y black, 25 lb.; molasses, 2 gal.; oil of\nvitriol, 4 lb.; cod liver oil, 4 gal.; vinegar, 6 gal.;\npowdered gum arabic or Senegal, Yz lb. All the\ningredients except the oil of vitriol are first\nthoroughly mixed and ground, then the oil of\nvitriol is slowly stirred in. It is kept for a week\nand stirred daily to insure combination.\nWaterproof. 1. Melt together 4 oz. black\nresin and 6 oz. beeswax over a slow fire; when\nthoroughly dissolved, add 1 oz. lampblack and\nYa lb. finely powdered Prussian blue; stir the\nmixture well, and add sufficient turpentine to\nmake thin paste. Apply with a cloth and polish\nwith a brush.\n2. Liebig s. Mix bone black in Yz its weight\nof molasses and Y its weight of olive oil, to\nwhich add Yz its weight of hydrochloric acid,\nYa its weight of strong sulphuric acid, with a\nsufficient quantity of water to produce a thin\npaste.\n3. Molasses, 1 lb.: ivorv black,-lJ4 lb.; sweet\noil, 2 lb. Rub together in a Wedgwood mortar\ntill all the ingredients form a perfectly smooth\nhomogeneous mixture then add a little lemon\njuice or strong vinegar— say the juice of one\nlemon, or about a wineglassful of strong vine-\ngar—and thoroughly incorporate, with just\nenough water added slowly to gain the required\nconsistency.\n4. Ivory black, 2 lb.; molasses, 1 lb.; olive oil,\nYa lb.; oil of vitriol, J4 lb. Add water to gain\nrequired consistency.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0052.jp2"},"53":{"fulltext":"Blacking.\n41\nBlacking.\n5. Take 1 part ivory black, )4 part of melted\ntallow, and work up well in a mortar. Incor-\nporate with this paste )4 part treacle, J4 part of\nsulphuric acid, and )4 part of spirits of salt.\nThis will form an excellent paste blacking.\n6. Waterproof Blacking James Bryant s.\nDissolve 6 oz. caoutchouc in 3 lb. rape oil (hot).\nAdd 20 lb. ivory black 15 lb. molasses and 6 or\n7 gal. vinegar, in which 6 oz. ground gum arabic\nhas been dissolved. Work perfectly smooth and\nadd 4 lb. sulphuric acid, stirring constantly.\nLet it stand for two weeks, then add 1 lb. fine\ngum arabic; stir daily for two weeks longer\nand bottle.\n7. Boiled oil, 1 pt.; oil of turpentine, black\nresin, and beeswax, of each, 3 oz. Proc. Melt\nthe wax and resin, then stir in the oil, remove\nthe pot from the fire, and when it has cooled a\nlittle, add the turpentine.\n8. Take 3 oz. spermaceti, and melt it in a\npipkin, or other earthen vessel, over a slow fire;\nadd thereto 6 drm. India rubber, cut into slices,\nand these will presently dissolve. Then add\nin order tallow, 8 oz.; hog s lard, 2 oz.; am-\nber varnish, 4 oz. Mix, and it will be fit for\nuse immediately. The boots or other material\nto be treated are to receive two or three coats,\nwith a common blacking brush, and a fine polish\nis the result.\nFor application to dress boots the following\ncompositions are prepared: 1. Gum arabic, 8 oz.;\nmolasses, 2 oz.; ink, )4 pt.; vinegar, 1 oz.; spirit\nof wine, 2 oz. Dissolve the gum and molasses in\nthe ink and vinegar, strain, and then add the\nspirit of wine.\n2. Mix together the whites of 2 eggs, 1 tea-\nspoonful spirits of wine, 1 oz. sugar, and as\nmuch finely pulverized ivory black as may be re-\nquired to produce the necessary shade of black.\nApply with a sponge, and polish with a piece of\nsilk.\n3. Mix together )4 lb. each ivory black, puri-\nfied lampblack, and pulverized indigo, 3 oz.\ndissolved gum ai abic, 4 oz. brown sugar, and )4\noz. glue dissolved in 1 pint water; heat the\nwhole to a boil over a slow fire, then remove,\nstir until cold, and roll into balls.\nMiscellaneous Greases, Blacking, etc. See also\nBoots and Shoes.\nBoot-top Liquid.— 1. Oxalic acid and white\nvitriol, of each 1 oz.; water, 1)4 pt. Proc. Dis-\nsolve and apply with a sponge to the leather,\npreviously washed with water, then wash the\ncomposition off with water, and dry. This\nliquid is poisonous.\n2. Mix in a vial, 1 drm. of oxymuriate of\npotass, with 2 oz. of distilled water and when\nthe salt is dissolved add 2 oz. of muriatic acid.\nThen shake well together, mix in another vial 3\noz. of rectified spirit of wine with )4 an oz. of\nthe essential oil of lemon, unite the contents\nof the two vials, and keep the liquid thus pre-\nEared closely corked for use. This liquid should\ne applied with a clean sponge, and dried in a\ngentle heat after which, the boot-tops may be\npolished with a proper brush, so as to appear\nlike new leather.\n3. Sour milk, 1 qt.; gum arabic, 1 oz.; juice of\n2 lemons white of 2 eggs oil vitriol, 2 oz. Mix.\n4. Sour milk, 1 qt.; butter of antimony, cream\nof tartar, tartaric acid, and burnt alum, of each\n2 oz. Mix.\nNubian Blacking.— The blacking: Rectified\n(or methylated) spirit, 1 gal.; mother liquid, )4\ngal. Mix, and add camphor, 11 oz.; Venice tur-\npentine, 16 oz.; shellac, 31 oz. Dissolved in 40\noz. benzine, 3)4 oz. castor oil, and 1% oz. of\nboiled linseed oil. Mother liquid This is the\ncoloring agent, and it is a solution of aniline\ncolors in spirit, viz.: Blue-blue aniline, 20 8 drm.;\nBismarck-brown aniline, 31 2 drm.; rectified\nspirit, 1 gal. It is this mother liquid which is\nthe special claim of the patent.\nBoots, Grease for.— Dr. Alexander Zoroastroff\nof Belostok, recommends a grease for boots\nwhich is said to prevent sore feet entirely. The\nointment is made of 4 parts of lard, 4 parts of\nolive oil, and 1 part of caoutchouc— raw rubber\n—which are melted together on a slow fire.\nHaving moistened the sole of the boot with\nwater, the inventor warms the boot in a stove\nor before a fire, and then smears it over with the\ncompound. The boot is said to become soft,\npliable, shining, waterproof, and even more\ndurable.\nTreer^s 1 1 Blacking. Dissolve gum traga-\ncanth in water, then add a little ink to make it\nblack, and finally add a small quantity of neat s\nfoot oil. It must be quite thin, or ©Ise, if thick,\nit is likely to cake.\nBlacking, Stove.— 1. Mix 2 parts of black\nlead, 4 parts of copperas, and 2 parts of bone\nblack, with water, so as to form a creamy\npaste. This is an excellent polish, as the cop-\nperas produces a jet black enamel, causing the\nblack lead to adhere to the iron.\n2. Plumbago, 2 lb.; water, 8 oz.; turpentine, 8\noz.; sugar, 2 oz. Knead thoroughly and keep in\ntin boxes. Apply with a brush.\n3. Plumbago, make into a thin paste with\nsodium silicate or water glass. This makes an\nexcellent stove polish and should be brushed\nthoroughly.\n4. Pulverized black lead, 2 lb.; spirits of tur-\npentine, 2 gal.; water, 2 oz.; sugar, 2 oz. Mix.\n5. Mix 5 parts black lead, 5 parts bone black\nand 10 parts of iron sulphate. Use water q. s.\nto form a paste. This is an excellent preparation\nand the coating is very permanent.\n6. Keduce graphite to an impalpable powder\nby grinding in a mill with water, dry use with\nwater first, then dry and polish. This is the\nbase of nearly all commercial stove polishes.\n7. Turpentine and black varnish, put with any\ngood stove polish, is the blacking used by hard-\nware dealers for polishing heating stoves. If\nproperly put on, it will last throughout the\nseason.\nPaste Stove Polish.— Pulverized black lead, 2\nlb.; spirits of turpentine, 2 gal.; water, 2 oz.;\nsugar, 2 oz.; mix.\nLiquid Stove Polish.— Bone black, 2)4 parts;\npulverized graphite, 2)4, parts; copperas, 5 parts\nwater, q. s. to f orrn a creamy paste.\nLiquid Black Lead Polish.— Pulverized blac:i\nlead, 1)4 lb.; turpentine, 1)4 ih; water, 1)4 8 ih\nsugar, 1)4 oz.\nBone Black Polish— Mix 2 parts copperas. 1\npart powdered bone black, and 1 part black lead\nwith enough water to give proper consistency,\nlike thick cream. Two applications are to be\nrecommended\nBrunswick Black for Grates, etc.— Asphaltum,\n5 lb.; melt and add boiled oil, 2 lb.; spirits of\nturpentine, 1 gal.; mix.\nBlack Pigments, See Pigments.\nBladders to Prepare.— Soak them for\ntwenty-four hours in water, to which a little\nchloi-ide of lime or potassa has been added, then\nremove the extraneous membranes, well wash\nthem in clean water, and dry them.\nBlankets, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nBlasting.— In small blasts, 1 lb. of powder\nwill loosen about 1)4 tons of rock. In large blasts\n1 lb. of powder will loosen 2)4 tons. Fifty or\n60 lb. of powder inclosed in a bag and hung\nagainst a barrier will demolish any ordinary\nstructure. One man can bore with a bit 1 in. in\ndiameter from 50 to 60 in. per day of ten hours\nin granite, or 300 to 400 in. per day in limestone.\nTwo strikers and a holder can bore with a bit 2\nin. in diameter 10 ft. per day in rock of medium\nhardness.\nBleaching.— The remarkable bleaching\ncompound of Mr. Charles Toppan, of Salem,\nMass., consists of 3 parts, by measure, of mus-\ntard seed oil, 4 parts melted paraffine, 3 parts\ncaustic soda, 20° Be., well mixed to form a sa-\nponaceous compound. Of this, 1 part of weight\nand 2 parts pure tallow soap are mixed, and of\nthis mixture 1 oz. for each gal. of water is used\nfor the bleaching bath, and 1 oz. caustic soda.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0053.jp2"},"54":{"fulltext":"Bleaching.\n42\nBleaching,\n30° Be., for each gal. is added, when the bath is\nheated in a close vessel, the goods entered, and\nboiled until sufficiently bleached.\nBleaching Fluid, Instantaneous.— In 5^ pt. of\nwater heated to 190° or 212° Fah. are introduced\nsuccessively: Mother of pearl, 33^ oz.; indigo,\n0 75 grn.; cochineal. 0 75 grn.; chloride of lime,\n150 grn.; soda crystals, 150 grn.; potash, 150 grn.\nBoil for half an hour, and the preparation is\nready for use. The inventor, M. Boiseller, says\nThe mother of pearl gives softness, luster,\nsuppleness, etc., and gives to hemp the feel of\ncashmere; the indigo gives a slight azure tint,\nthe cochineal adds brightness, the chloride ef-\nfects the bleaching, the soda washes and brushes\nand the potash removes all grease.\nBleaching Powder, or Chloride of Lime, is pre-\npared by passing chlorine gas into boxes of\nlead in which a quantity of slaked lime is laid\non shelves. The stuff to be bleached is first\nboiled in lime water, wash, and without drying\nboil again, in a solution of soda or potash;\nwash, and without drying, steep in a weak mix-\nture of chloride of lime and water for six hours;\nwash, and without drying, steep for four hours\nin a weak solution or mixture of sulphuric acid\nand water wash well and dry; upon an emer-\ngency chlorate of potash mixed with 3 times its\nweight of common salt, and diluted in water,\nmay be used as a bleaching liquid.\nBeeswax, to Bleach.— Pure white wax is ob-\ntained from the ordinary beeswax by exposure\nto the influence of the sun and weather. The\nwax is sliced into thin flakes and laid on sacking\nor coarse cloth, stretched on frames, resting on\nposts to raise them from the ground. The wax\nis turned over frequently, and occasionally\nsprinkled with soft water if there be not dew\nand rain sufficient to moisten it. The wax\nshould be bleached in about four weeks. If on\nbreaking the flakes the wax still appears yellow\ninside, it is necessary to melt it again, and flake\nand expose it a second time or even of tener,\nbefore it becomes thoroughly bleached, the\ntime required being mainly dependent upon\nthe weather. There is a preliminary process,\nby which, it is claimed, mucfy time is saved in\nthe subsequent bleaching this consists in pass-\ning melted wax and steam through long pipes,\nso as to expose the wax as much as possible to\nthe action of the steam; thence into a pan\nheated by a steam bath, where it is stirred\nthoroughly with water and then allowed to\nsettle. The whole operation is repeated a sec-\nond and third time, and the wax is then in con-\ndition to be more readily bleached.\nBristles, to Bleach.— The bristles are cleansed\nwell in a preparation of tepid water and soft\nsoap. They are then dipped in cold water. For\ntwo or three days they are then left in an aque-\nous solution of sulphurous acid, after which\nthey are washed and dried.\nBones, to Bleach. Dip the bones for a few\nmoments in a boiling solution of 1 lb. caustic\nsoda in 1 gal. of water, then rinse thoroughly in\nwater, rub down with fine pumice stone, and\nexpose until whitened to the vapor of burning\nsulphur largely diluted with air, then rinse in\nwarm water. Bones may also be whiteneo by\nexposure in a weak solution of javelle water.\nCalico, to Bleach.— Boil in strong solution of\ncaustic soda, rinse thoroughly in clean water\nsteep for half an hour in a strong, clear solution\nof chloride of lime in water wring out, and\npass through water containing 3% sulphuric\nacid, rinse thoroughly in running water, dry.\nBleaching Coral.— First well wash in very\ndilute hydrochloric acid; then well rinse in\nwater then put into some chloride of lime and\nwater.\nBleaching Cotton.— Make a strong solution of\nchloride of lime (hypochlorite of lime— bleach-\ning powder) in water, allow to settle, and draw\noff the clear liquid. Rinse the goods in clean\nwater containing about 5% of sulphuric acid,\nand then pass them slowly through the bleach-\ning solution. They should then be well rinsed\nin water containing a little carbonate of soda.\nIf the cloth is much colored it may be necessary\nto allow it to remain for a short time in the\nbath. This is the usual method of bleaching in\nlaundries.\nEngravings, to Bleach.— Immerse the prints\nfor one minute in javelle water, and then wash\nthoroughly in water containing a little hypo-\nsulphite of soda. To prepare the javelle water\ntake 4 lb. of bicarbonate of soda and 1 lb. of\nchloride of lime, put the soda in a kettle over\nthe fire, add 1 gal. of boiling water, let it boil\nfrom ten to fifteen minutes, then stir in the\nchloride of lime, avoiding lumps. When coM\nthe liquid can be kept in a jug or a bottle ready\nfor use.\nFeathers, to Bleach.— 1. The feathers are put\ninto a bath of permanganate of potash, con-\ntaining 4 to 5 parts permanganate to 1,000 of\nwater a solution of sulphate of magnesia of\nthe same strength is added, and it is heated 140°\nF. (60° C.) at the most. The feathers, previously\nwashed, are put into this bath, then taken out,\nrinsed, and passed through weak sulphuric acid\nat about 1V6° to 3° Tw.\n2. It is also possible to bleach the feathers in\na bath of 1 part barium peroxide in 100 parts\nof water at 86° F. (30° C.) Leave forty-eight\nhours in this solution, wash, pass through weak\nacid bath, and wash.\n3. Feathers may be bleached by exposure to\nthe vapor of burning sulphur (sulphurous acid)\nin a moist atmosphere, but it is usually neces-\nsary to remove the oily matters from them be-\nfore they can be satisfactorily so bleached.\nThis may be accomplished by immersing them\nfor a short time in good naphtha or benzine,\nrinsing in a second vessel of the same, and thor-\noughly drying by exposure to the air. This\ntreatment does not injure the feathers.\nFlannel, Bleaching of.— Flannel which has be-\ncome yellow with use may be bleached by\nputting it for some days in a solution of hard\nsoap to which strong ammonia has been added.\nThe best proportions are l^$ lb. hard curd soap,\n50 lb. soft water, and lb. strong ammonia\nsolution. The same object may be attained in\na shorter time by placing the flannel for a\nquarter of an hour in a weak solution of bisul-\nphite of sodium, to which a little hydrochloric\nacid has been added.\nBleaching Animal Glue (Muzzarelh).— Add to\nfine white glue prepared from rabbit skins, for\ndressing white tissues, a small quantity of sul-\nphate of soda, and mix well acetate of lead is\nthen added, whereby a precipitate of sulphate of\nlead is occasioned; the resulting jelly is thus\nblanched, and after cooling is cut up and dried\nas usual.— Science Record, 1875.\nGutta Percha, to Bleach.— 1. Dissolve the gutta\npercha in twenty times its weight of boiling\nbenzole, add to the solution plaster of very good\nquality, and agitate the mixture from time to\ntime. By reposing for two days the plaster is\ndeposited and carries down with it all the im-\npurities of the gutta percha insoluble in ben-\nzole. The clear liquid decanted is introduced\nby small portions at a time into twice its volume\nof alcohol of 90%, agitating continually. During\nthis operation the gutta percha is precipitated\nin the state of a pasty mass, perfectly white.\nThe desiccation of the gutta percha thus puri-\nfied requires several weeks exposure to the air,\nbut may be accelerated by trituration in a mor-\ntar, which liberates moisture which it tends to\nretain.\n2. White gutta percha is obtained oy precipi-\ntating a solution of ordinary gutta percha in\nchloroform by alcohol, washing the precipitate\nwith alcohol, and finahy boiling it in water, and\nmoulding into desired form while still hot.\nHair, to Bleach.— 1. A recipe stated to bleach\nhuman hair white instead of blond or yellow.\nMix 1 lb. hydrogen peroxide with 1 oz. ammo-\nnia; mix 4 oz. hydrogen peroxide with 1 oz.\ncream of tartar dissolved in 1 oz. soda. Blend\nthe two solutions and steep 1 lb. of the hair in","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0054.jp2"},"55":{"fulltext":"Bleaching.\n43\nBleaching.\nit for three hours. Then wash in clean water\nwith soapine, in a bath of pottery or clay,\nand thoroughly dry. Repeat the process fifteen\nor sixteen times, but thoroughly mix and shake\nup the hair after the twelfth and every succeed-\ning time. FinaDy draw the hair through a\nsolution of blue aniline and alcohol.\n2. A hot dilute solution of nitric acid is most\neffectual. Brown hair, when carefully treated,\nis turned the most brilliant golden, resembling\ngolden spun glass. The method employed is to\nput the hair in a porcelain dish with dilute N0 2\nHO (about 1 part strong acid to 10 of water),\nthen gradually heat, and, soon as the required\nshade is obtained, take out and wash. If the\nacid is too strong, or the heat too great, the\nfiber of the hair is spoiled. Dark brown hair\nacquires generally a reddish color, and black\nhair will turn nearly white.\nHats, to Bleach.— To bleach Panama hats, wash\nthe goods clean, and while slightly damp, expose\nto the fumes of burning sulphur in a closed\nvessel. To color one dozen hats, take 12 lb.\nlogwood, 1 lb. sulphate of iron, and lb. verdi-\ngris. Digest the logwood for some time. Add\nthe sulphate of iron and the verdigris. Dip the\nhats in the bath several times and hang in the\nopen air. By the peroxidizement of the iron\nwith the atmospheric oxygen the hats will be\nmore completely blackened. When fully dried\nwash in running water.\nHorn. Besides hydrogen peroxide, horns^can\nbe bleached by immersing for a short time in\nwater slightly mixed with sulphuric acid, chlo-\nride of lime, or chlorine, or they may be exposed\nin the moist state to the fumes of burning sul-\nphur, largely diluted with air.\nIvory, to Bleach.— I. First clean the ivory by\nboiling it with a paste composed of burned\npumice stone and water. After cleansing place\nthe article under a glass vessel, and expose it to\nthe sun s rays until it assumes its original white-\nness. The ivory should be kept moist with\nwater while bleaching. If the first operation\ndoes not succeed perfectly, it should be repeated.\n2. Mix a thin lime paste and heat over a\nmoderate fire. Place the ivory in this paste,\nand leave it until it bleaches white, after which\nremove the paste, dry and polish.\n3. Dr. Artus s process. The ivory articles\nare placed in a solution containing 11*4 oz. car-\nbonate of soda in crystals and i5% oz. of water,\nand allowed to remain in solution for 2 days.\nThe articles are then removed from the solution,\nwell washed in pure water, and then smeared\nfor five or six days in a solution composed of\nIT oz. of sulphite of soda and 45J^ oz. of water.\nAt the end of five or six days there should be\nadded to the solution containing the articles an\nounce of hydrochloric acid diluted with 5^ oz.\nof water. The vessel containing the liquid\nshould then be covered and left standing for\nfrom 24 to 26 hours, after which the ivory may\nbe taken out, washed in clean water and dried.\nThe quantities named in this recipe book are\nsufficient to bleach 22fcj oz. of ivory. A glass or\nporcelain vessel should be used, as the acid will\nact upon metallic vessels. A very fine polish\nmay be put upon the ivory by the use of putty\npowder and water applied by means of a rubber\nmade of old felt hat. If the ivory articles are\nof a character to be placed in a lathe, they may\nbe polished by the use of pulverized pumice\nstone mixed with water, after which the ivory\nshould be heated by rubbing it, while revolving\nin the lathe, with a piece of linen or sheepskin,\nand when it has become hot it should then be\nrubbed with a little whiting mixed with olive\noil, then with a little dry whiting, and finally\nwith a piece of soft white rag.\n4. Immerse for a short time in water slight-\nly mixed with sulphuric acid, chloride of\nlime, or chlorine, or it may be exposed in the\nmoist state to the fumes of burning sulphur,\nlargely diluted with air. Ink stains may be re-\nmoved by repeatedly using a solution of caustic\npotash in water.\n5. Ivory that has become yellow by exposure\ncan be whitened by washing in a solution com-\nposed of 1 oz. of nitric acid and 10 oz. of soft\nwater apply with a rough brush cleanse thor-\noughly with clean water.\n6. Peroxide of hydrogen is used in Sheffield\nto bleach the inferior ivory for knife handles.\nThe mode of procedure is as follows: Place,\nsay, 2 qt. of the liquid in a stone pot, adding 4\noz. of liquid ammonia fort (880°), immerse the\nhandles, and put over a common shop stove for\ntwenty- four to thirty-six hours; the handles\nare then taken out and gradually dried in the\nair, not too quickly, or they would split. The\ndeep color of the ivory is removed, and a beau-\ntiful pearly white ivory results when polished.\nThe ivory is previously treated with a solution\nof common soda, to get rid of greasy matter,\nand open the pores.\n7. Antique works in ivory that have become\ndiscolored may be brought to a pure whiteness\nby exposing them to the sun under glasses. It\nis the particular property of ivory to resist the\naction of sun s rays when it is under glass but\nwhen deprived of this protection, to become cov-\nered with a multitude of minute cracks. Many\nantique pieces of sculpture in ivory maybe seen,\nwhich, altnough tolerably white, are, at the\nsame time, defaced by numerous cracks. This\ndefect cannot be remedied; but, in order to\nconceal it, the dust may be removed by brushing\nthe work with warm water and soap, and after-\nward placing it under glass. Antique works in\nivory that have become discolored may be\nbrushed with pumice stone, calcined and diluted,\nand while yet wet placed under glasses. They\nshould be daily exposed to the action of the sun,\nand be turned from time to time, that they may\nbecome equally bleached if the brown color be\ndeeper on one side than the other, that side\nwill, of course, be for the longest time exposed\nto the sun.\n8. To bleach ivory, place the ivory in a satu-\nrated solution of alum for an hour. Polish with\na woolen cloth, and wrap in linen to dry. Also\nwith peroxide of hydrogen, to 1 pt. add 1 oz.\naqua ammonia. Warm, soak the ivory for\ntwenty-four hours, wipe and polish with chalk.\n9. Peineman s Process of Bleaching Ivory\nwhich has Turned Yellow.— Place the ivory in a\nsaturated solution of alum, soak fo^ one hour.\nKub with a woolen cloth, and wrap in a linen\ncloth to dry. Another method which is pre-\nferred by some is to prepare a thin paste with\nlime, heat over a fire. Put the ivory in this\npaste, and let it remain until it becomes white.\nTake out, dry and polish.\n10. To bleach ivory handles of steel tools, pro-\ntect the steel with a coat of wax or paraffin, and\nset the handles in a solution of chloride of lime\n1 part, water 4 parts, for a day, more or less,\nthen wash the handles with clean warm water,\nwipe and dry. If satisfactory, warm the metal\npart and wipe off the wax or paraffin. Another\nway is to dip the handle in a saturated solution\nof alum in water for from one to three hours,\nwash, wipe, and dry. If the handles are not\nvery dark, the latter way is preferable. For\npolishing the steel points, use putty powder\n(oxide of tin) on a buff wheel wet with alcohol.\nThis will not stain the handles.\nBleaching Jute.— Jute is still less tolerant of\nchemical agents than linen, especially of acids.\nFor bleaching 50 lb. the following process is\nrecommended: Make up a solution of 5 lb.\nsoap at 140° F., and pass the jute five times\nthrough it. Rinse in clean water. For the\nchemic bath mix 2^ lb. of chloride of lime with\nan equivalent quantity of sulphate of magnesia\n(Epsom s) both dissolved in water. Stir up, let\nsettle, dilute to ]4° Tw., steep the jute for three\nhours in the cold, taking care to keep the goods\nbelow the surface of the liquid. Take out and\nwash well. The operation of exposing vege-\ntable fiber of any kind to sun, air and moist-\nure is known in some parts as crofting, and\nin others as grassing. The process of boil-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0055.jp2"},"56":{"fulltext":"Bleaching.\n4-1\nBleaching.\ning with alkali and soap is known as bowk-\ning, and the liquid in the keirs is spoken of\nas the bowking liquor. Crookes.\nTo Bleach Lac— Dissolve shellac in a lye of\npearlash by boiling; filter, pass chlorine through\nit in excess, wash and precipitate afterward\nmelt it into sticks. This makes an excellent\nvarnish- with spirits of wine; its color also ren-\nders it good for white and delicate colored seal-\ning wax.\nLeaves, to Bleach. Mix 1 drm. chloride of lime\nwith 1 pt. water, and add sufficient acetic acid\nto liberate the chlorine. Steep the leaves about\nten minutes, and until they are whitened re-\nmove them on a piece of paper, and wash in\nclean water.\nBleaching, Microscopical. See Microscopy.\nOils and Fats.— Many plans of decolorizing oils\nare in vogue. 1. Exposure to sunlight in large\nwhite glass bottles the oil soon becomes color-\nless, but acquires an almost rancid flavor.\n2. Agitation with 2% of a solution of perman-\nganate of potash bleaches effectually, but also\nleaves a bad flavor.\n3. The oil is first agitated with water contain-\ning gum, and to the emulsion thus formed is\nadded coarsely crushed wood charcoal; the\nwhole is then slowly warmed to a degree not\nreaching 212° F. (100° C.) and when cold the oil is\ndissolved out by ether or petroleum spirit, and\nthe latter is recovered by distillation; the result\nis good.\n4. The oil, 500 parts, is clarified by addition of\n50 parts of China clay and 50 parts of water.\nParaffin.— The crude paraffin is filtered, and\nboiled for two hours with 5$ of its weight of\nsodium sulphide and sufficient water. It is\nallowed to cool, so that the mass swimming- on\nthe top may become compact and be removed\nit is then washed with river water, pressed, and\nafterward dissolved in 20$ amyl alcohol, the\nparaffin being left as a pasty and pliable mass.\nIt must remain for a time, and then be strongly\npressed after filtering through bone black.—\nBe Molon.\nPiano Keys, Bleaching. —The reason piano\nkeys turn yellow is because they absorb the\ngrease from the fingers; it will, therefore, be\nnecessary to remove this. If a paste made\nfrom whiting and a solution of potash is laid on\nand allowed to remain for about twenty-four\nhours, the ivories will be restored very nearly,\nif not quite, to their original color, without re-\nmoving them from the keys. See Staining\nIvnry, below.\nRosin, to Bleach. Rosin is bleached by melting\nin a suitable vessel at a temperature of not more\nthan 600° and passing steam through the fluid\nmass. The steam and rosin are then condensed\nin a receiver and the product dried. Carbonic\nacid, or a mixture of carbonic acid and nitrogen\nor hydrogen gas, are introduced sometimes, to\nperfect decolorization. Rosin oil is one of the\nproducts of destructive distillation of rosin, the\nresidium being tar.\nSails, to Bleach. Use a solution of chloride of\nlime in water, in which the sail may be im-\nmersed for a short time and then thoroughly\nwashed and dried in the sun. This will whiten\nit.\nShellac. 1. By exposure in thin threads to\nthe atmosphere.\n2. 1 lb. of shellac is dissolved in 4 lb. of very\nstrong alcohol, 1 lb. of bleaching powder con-\ntaining at least 20$ bleaching chlorine mixed\ninto a paste with water, strained through linen,\nand the residue washed with water until the\nnitrate amounts to 1 lb. It is then mixed with\na solution of carbonate of potash in 3 parts of\nwater until no further precipitate is produced.\nThe precipitate is separated by filtration, the\nwarm alcoholic solution of shellac is treated with\nhydrochloric acid until the mixture is decidedly\nacid. The shellac then separates as white clots,\nwhich are to be washed until the water ceases\nto pass away milky, and then rolled out into\nthin strips upon a wet board.\n3. Lemming s method consists in either boil-\ning with or filtering the hot alcoholic solution\nthrough well burnt and recently heated animal\ncharcoal. When necessary, this operation is re-\npeated until the solution is colorless, when it is\nfiltered through fine silk, and finally thi-ough\nfine filter paper. To insure success, the solution\nshould be in the proportion of about 5 oz. of\nshellac to 1 qt. of alcohol (rectified spirits of\nwine).\n4. Dr. Hare published a method for bleaching\nthe lac by means of chlorine. He dissolved one\npart of shell or seed lac in a boiling solution of\n1 part of pearlash in about 8 parts of water.\nThe solution was then cooled and impregnated\nwith chlorine gas till the lac was all precipitated.\nThe precipitate thus obtained is white, but the\ncolor deepens by washing and consolidation;\ndissolved in alcohol, lac bleached by this pro-\ncess j ields a varnish which is as free from color\nas any copal varnish. The application of chlor-\nine must be made by a person acquainted with\nchemistry. Hence chloride of lime is safer as a\nbleaching agent, the lime being afterward dis-\nsolved out from the precipitate by dilute muri-\natic acid.\n5. Shellac (Orange), to Bleach to White.— Rub\nup with and dissolve in 2 lb. water, 21b. chloride\nof lime. Add to above 4 oz. caustic potash in 1\nlb. of water. Digest 2 lb. of the shellac in 1 gal.\nof alcohol for a few days. Add the above fluid\nthen with constant stirring, and after half an\nhour add excess of hydrochloric acid. Pour off\nthe fluid after the shellac has separated, wash\nthe shellac with boiling water until the latter\ncomes off clear, place the shellac on a moist\nboard, and dry.\nInstructions for Bleaching Silk.— The articles\nto be bleached must be freed from all mechani-\ncally adhering dirt, grease, etc. This is effected,\naccording to the nature of the article, and of\nthe impurities to be removed, by means of soap,\nammonia, sulphuret of carbon, ether, or alco-\nhol. These cleansing agents must then be en-\ntirely removed, either by washing or by evapora-\ntion. A bleach bath is then made up with the\nperoxide of hydrogen, either alone or along\nwith small traces of ammonia or of soda lye.\nThe silks are simply laid in this liquid, and left\nto steep as may be required. The pi*ocess is\naccelerated by heat not exceeding 77° F., and by\nthe light of the sun. The bleaching process\nmay last from two to fourteen days. When it\nis completed, the silks are rinsed in condensed\nsteam water, and carefully dried.\nIn China, silks are scoured with carbonate of\npotash or of soda, but this method has been\nnearly abandoned in Europe on account of the\namount of care and attention it requires.\nFrom 10 to 12 lb. of carbonate of soda are re-\nquired for 100 lb. of raw silk. The scouring\nbath is not allowed to get hotter than 185° F.,\nand the process may last from sixty to ninety\nminutes. The action is considered to have gone\nfar enough when the threads give a kind of\ncrackling sound if rubbed with the finger nail.\nTwo or three washings with lukewarm water\ncomplete the process. The loss is rarely below\n18$, and may rise to 28$.\nCaustic soda is used in very weak solutions for\ncoarse kinds of silk. From 3 to 4 lb. solid caus-\ntic is sufficient for 100 lb. silk. It is dissolved\nin about 300 gal. water at 140°, and the yarns are\nworked for thirty minutes and are then washed.\nThe loss does not exceed 12%.— Crookes.\nBleaching Small Articles.— Articles, as pocket\nhandkerchiefs, require, every few weeks, to\nget a good stewing in .a warm oven, often\nhaving to be left there, in a good large stewpan,\nfor several days at a time, until they look\nwhite. As a preparation for washing, always\nsteep white (not color-printed ones) articles in\ncold water for a few hours, and then the soiled\nparts can be very much cleansed by a good\npressing together between the hands— no violent\nrubbing— then use good white soap on them,\nand let them remain overnight, folded flat in","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0056.jp2"},"57":{"fulltext":"Bleaching.\n45\nBleaching.\na dish, not in water, but yet wet enough to com-\npletely melt the soap through the texture of\nthe articles. Do not be stingy of soap you can\nuse the lather with other articles of a less tine\nsort. A little practice will bring you to the use of\nenough without waste. Next day pour on to said\nclothes a kettlef ul of very clean boiling water\n—boiling, mind you; for if only one degree be-\nlow the boiling point, it will not be hot enough\nto whiten them. Cover your washing mug (or\nbasin) at once, so that the steam is kept in\nafter twenty to thirty minutes has passed, wash\nyour things, and give them a rinse in plenty of\ntepid water. If now they are not to your satis-\nfaction, spread them, well pulled out, while wet,\nupon a large dish, which place at or outside an\nopen, sunny window, sprinkle them with clean\ncold water several times a day, and they will\nbleach lovely. Keep this going for two or three\ndays; then wash again in a clean ■scald, as\nabove described, and when you have them fin-\nished it will be your own fault if your laces and\nhandkerchiefs are not a wonder to all beholders.\nNever starch your lace articles, but crisp them\nin cold water, in which two or three lumps of\nloaf sugar are dissolved also, be sure to stretch\nout the work while wet, then dry flat on a towel\nupon the bed.\nSponges, to Bleach.— 1. As is well known, chlo-\nrine and its compounds cannot be used for\nbleaching sponges, as they impart a yellow\ncolor to the latter, which in addition become\nhard and lose their fine texture. The method\nnow generally employed is a water solution of\nsulphurous acid, and requires from six to eight\ndays, and considerable manipulation. Accord-\ning to the latest researches made in Germany v\nthe bleaching of sponges can be performed\nmore conveniently and expeditiously by means\nof bromine dissolved in water. As is well\nknown, 1. part of bromine requires 30 parts of\nwater to dissolve it, and thus a concentrated\nsolution can easily be obtained by dropping a\nfew drops of the former into a bottle of dis-\ntilled water and shaking it. The sponges are\nsubmerged in this solution, and after the lapse\nof a few hours their brown color changes to a\nlighter one, the dark red bromine solution\nchanging at the same time to light yellow.\nBy treating the sponges to a second immersion\nof a fresh solution, they acquire the desired\nlight color in a short time. They are improved\nstill more if finally dipped in dilute sulphuric\nacid and washed with cold water. It seems\nstrange that such closely allied bodies as chlo-\nrine and bromine should act so differently\ntoward the coloring matter in sponges.\n2. Saturate in 1 qt. of buttermilk for twenty-\nfour hours, and rub between the hands.\n3. Soak in dilute muriatic acid (1 part acid to\nV/z parts water) for twelve hours, wash well\nwith water to remove lime, then immerse it in\na solution of 2 lb. hyposulphite of soda in 12\nlb. water to which 2 lb. muriatic acid has been\nadded a moment before. After it is sufficiently\nbleached, remove, wash again, and dry.\n4. Soak for several days in cold water, renew-\ning the water and squeezing the sponges occa-\nsionally. Then wash in warm water, and put\ninto cold water aciduated with hydrochloric\nacid. Next dry, take out, and wash thoroughly\nin soft water; then immerse in an aqueous\nsulphurous acid (sp. gr. 1*034) for a week.\nAfterward wash in plenty of water, squeeze,\nand allow to dry in the air.\n5. Soak in dilute hydrochloric acid to remove\nthe lime, then wash in water, and place for\nten minutes in a 2% solution of potassium per-\nmanganate. Their brown appearance on re-\nmoval from this is due to deposition of man-\nganous oxide, which may be removed by steep-\ning for about two minutes in a 3% solution of\noxalic acid to which a little sulphuric acid has\nbeen added. As soon as the sponges appear white,\nthey are washed out in water to remove the\nacid. Very dilute sulphuric acid may replace\nthe oxalic acid.\n6. First wash in tepid water, and then in a\nsolution of hydrochloric acid (3 c. c. per liter =5\nfl. drm. per 7 pt.), which frees the pores from\ncarbonate of lime; next immerse for twenty-\nfour hours in a solution composed of 5 pt.\nhydrochloric acid in 100 pt. of water, with addi-\ntion of 6 pt. hyposulphite of soda.— Blondeau.\nStraw, to Bleach.— 1. The articles, having\nbeen washed as below, may be placed for an\nhour in weak chloride of lime water, and then\nhung out on a line to dry slowly. The chloride\nof lime water should be made by mixing 1 part\n(by weight) of chloride of lime with 20 parts of\nwater, agitating the mixture with a stick until\nall the particles of chloride of lime are thor-\noughly broken up, allowing the mixture to\nsettle, and pouring off the clear portion from\nthe dregs for use.\n2. On a small scale, with such an article as a\nstraw hat, a bonnet, a basket, etc., the follow-\ning method may be followed The straw, hav-\ning been well washed with weak soda lye, is\nrinsed in plenty of clean, water, lightly shaken,\netc.; remove superfluous moisture, and place,\nsupported on a stick, under a large glazed\nearthenware pan turned upside down. A very\nsmall pipkin, capable of holding about ]4 Pt., is\nnow placed on the fire, and about oz. of roll\nbrimstone placed in it. When the brimstone\nis all melted, a light is applied to it, so as\nto cause it to catch fire. The pipkin, with\nthe inflamed sulphur, is now placed under the\nglazed pan in such a position as not to scorch\nthe article to be bleached. The spaces between\nthe pan and the table or floor on which it rests\nmust be carefully closed with damp cloths\nplaced around to prevent the escape of the sul-\nphurous acid gas produced by the combustion\nof the sulphur. In about two hours the pan\nmay be removed, when the straw will be found\nnicely bleached.\nStarch.— Potato starch is largely bleached by\nthe application of sulphuric acid, this being*\nabsolutely requisite when the potatoes are at\nall decayed. After the use of the sulphuric\nacid, any remaining traces of acid must be\nneutralized by ammonia or milk of lime, fixed\ncaustic alkalies being inadmissible. Chlorine is\nalso much used for bleaching starch, usually as\na solution of calcium chloride in water soured\nby the addition of sulphuric acid; this and\nsome other salts cause the grains to swell, and\nrender them soluble in cold water. Sal ammo-\nniac is another favorite agent.— Spoils 1 Encyclo-\npedia.\nTallow, to Bleach and Harden.— In a copper\nboiler put H gal. water and 100 lb. rendered\ntallow; melt over a slow fire, and add, while\nstirring, 1 lb. of oil of vitriol, previously di-\nluted with 12 lb. of water afterward, ]4 lb. bi-\nchromate of potassa, in powder and lastly, 13\npt. water, after which the fire is suffered to go\ndown, when the tallow will collect on the sur-\nface of the dark gi-een liquid, from which it is\nseparated. It is then of a fine white, slightly\ngreenish color, and possesses a considerable de-\ngree of hardness.\nComposition for Cleansing and Bleaching Tex-\ntile Fabrics, Paint, Floors, Casks, etc.— 1. Car-\nbonate of potash, 22 parts; sand free from\nalumina and iron, 50 parts; charcoal, 2 parts.\n2. Carbonate of soda, 22 parts; carbonate of\npotash, 70 parts; silicate of potash, 20 parts;\ncharcoal, 1 part.\n3. Silica, 1 part; common salt, 2 parts.— Sci-\nence Record, 1875.\nWax.— Melt the wax in a jar, and put into it\npowdered nitrate of soda, in the proportion of\n1 oz. to 1 lb. of wax. Afterward add by degrees\n2 oz. to 1 lb. of sulphuric acid, diluting with ten\ntimes its weight of water, keeping the wax\nwarm and stirring the while. Let it stand a\nshort time, and then fill up the jar with hot\nwater, and allow the whole to cool. The wax\nshould then be white. Afterward wash with\nwater to remove any nitric acid that may re-\nmain, as it would make the wax yellow.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0057.jp2"},"58":{"fulltext":"Bleedin\nWood, to Bleach.— In most cases the staining\nof wood may be effected so as to produce very\nbright colors without any previous preparation,\nas, generally speaking, the mordants employed\nhave a bleaching action on the wood. But in\nmany cases, in consequence of the quality of\nthe wood under treatment, it must be freed\nfrom its natural colors by a preliminary bleach-\ning process. To this end it is saturated as com-\npletely as possible with a clear solution of 17J4\noz. chloride of lime and 2 oz. soda crystals in\n10V£ pt. of water. In this liquid the wood is\nsteeped for half an hour, if it does not appear to\ninjure its texture. After this bleaching it is\nimmersed in a solution of sulphurous acid to\nremove all traces of chlorine, and then washed\nin pure water. The sulphurous acid which may\ncling to the wood in spite of washing does not\nappear to injure it, or alter the colors which\nare applied.\nBleeding to Arrest. See Styptics.\nBlisters.— When arising from friction or\nother irritation, they should be pricked with a\nneedle, and emptied of their contents by pres-\nsure; but the skin should on no account be\nbroken.\nThe f ollowing preparation may then be gen-\ntly rubbed into the part Spermaceti, 1 part\nolive oil, 1 part subnitrate of bismuth, 1 part.\nThe part must be protected from friction, or a\ndisagreeable sore will probably result. This is\nespecially necessary when the blister is situated\non the heel. One method of protecting it in\nthis situation is to first place over it a piece of\ncourt plaster, and over this a good thick piece\nof cotton wool, at least twice the size of the\nblister this should be kept on by strips of ad-\nhesive strapping.\nAnother plan is to thickly spread a small\npiece of lint with the preparation recommended,\nto place this over the blister, and over this cot-\nton wool.\nBUste7s. See Photography.\nBloom of Boses. See Bouges and Face\nPaints.\nBlotters, Substitute for.— 14 parts by\nweight gypsum, 2 parts potato flour. Mix and\nEour into a mould. When this mass becomes\nard, the blotter is ready for use.\nBluing for Laundry Use.— 1. Dissolve\nindigo sulphate in cold water and filter.\n2. Dissolve good cotton blue (aniline blue 6\nB) in cold water.\n3. Dissolve fine Prussian or Berlin blue with\ny% part of oxalic acid in water; or use ferro-\ncyanide of potassium T x 5 part) in place of ox-\nalic acid.\n4. Dissolve 7 oz. of yellow prussiate of potash\nin 2 1 pints of water. Make a solution of\nsesquichloride of iron which shall contain 1\npart of the solid salt by weight to every 10\nparts of water by weight. Take equal volumes\nof the two solutions, and add to each twice its\nvolume of cold concentrated solution of sul-\nphate of soda. Finally, mix the two solutions\nthus obtained. The solid Prussian blue will im-\nmediately precipitate. This may be put upon a\nfilter and washed, being kept exposed to the\nair for perhaps fifteen or twenty days. The\nexcess of soluble salts will first be washed\naway, and then the latter washings will dissolve\nthe blue, forming a deep-blue liquid, which\nmay be used for preparations of bluing for\nclothing. It is, however, better to buy the soft\nPrussian blue than to attempt to prepare it on\na small scale. 1 oz. of the soft Prussian blue\npowdered, and put into a bottle with 1 qt. of\nclear rain water, acidulated by J4 of an oz. of\noxalic acid, is a good preparation. A very small\nportion suffices for a large amount of clothing.\n5. A Disinfective Laundry Blue.— Mix together\n16 parts of Prussian blue, 2 parts of carbolic\nacid, 1 part of borax, and 1 part of gum arabic\ninto a stiff dough. Roll it out into balls as large\nas hazel nuts, and coat them with gelatine or\n46 Bluing.\ngum, to prevent the carbolic acid from escap-\ning.\n6. Liquid Washing Blue. —Water 15 parts dis-\nsolve in this l\\i parts indigo-carmine. Add y±\npart gum ai*abic.\nBlue Pigments. See Pigments. Blue\nPrints. See Photography.\nBluing Metals. —Blue Finish, without\nHeat.— Clean every part carefully, and apply\nnitric acid 1 part, diluted with 10 parts of water\nuntil a blue film is produced on the surface.\nThen wash with warm water, dry and wipe with\nlinseed oil.\nBrass, to Color Blue like Steel.— The brass laid\nin a leaden vessel, containing hydrochloric acid\nand a little arsenic acid, assumes iridescent tints,\nand may be removed when the desired shade of\nblue is obtained.\nBluing Gun Barrels.— I. For bluing gun barrels\nby staining dissolve 4^j oz. hyosulphite of soda in\n1 qt. water, also 1M oz. acetate of lead in 1 qt.\nwater. Mix the two solutions and bring to a\nboil in a porcelain dish or stone pot. Clean the\ngun barrel free from grease, oil, or varnish,\nwarm the barrel and smear with the hot solu-\ntion, using a piece of sponge tied to a stick.\nWhen color develops wash and •wipe dry, finish\nwith boiled linseed oil.\n2. The bluing of gun barrels is effected by\nheating evenly in a muffle until the desired\nblue color is raised, the barrel being first made\nclean and bright with emery cloth, leaving no\nmarks of grease or dirt upon the metal when\nthe bluing takes place, and then allow to cool\nin the air. It requires considerable experience\nto obtain an even, clear blue.\nHoiv to Blue a Revolver.— 3. Sometimes the steel\nis heated to a light gray color, allowed to cool\nand reheated until blue. 1. Get as high a polish\nas possible on the part which you want to blue.\n2. Get n iron box made (thin sheet iron). If for\nthe chamber only, say about 6 in. square, no\nneed for rivets, just doubled together. 3. Pound\nup some wood charcoal; fill j our box -with it;\nput the box on a fire (any fire); stir up the char-\ncoal now and again, till you find it is partly\nigmted. Now put your chamber into the box\nof partly ignited charcoal; put it in about mid-\nway, so as to have as much heat at bottom as at\ntop and sides. 4. Have handy a handful of\ndry powdered lime and a piece of tow or cotton\nwaste; you will want a small pair of tongs, or\nother means of lifting your article out of the\nbox. When you put the article in the box place\nit again on the fire. Now you must pay atten-\ntion to it; lift it out about every ten minutes\nand don tstand looking at it, but at once rub it\nwith the tow dipped in the lime. As quickly as\npossible put back into the charcoal. Don t let\nyour charcoal get too hot; when you see it get-\nting very hot lift the box off the fire and stand\nit in any convenient spot; replace on fire\nagain if necessary. Now, the following is im-\nportant: Your chamber in a short time gets\nof a purple color, then bright blue. It is very\ntempting to leave off at this bright blue. Don t.\nThis first blue is no good, at least no good\nwhere the article has to be rubbed and cleaned.\nContinue, the bright blue will depart, leaving\nyour chamber nearly as before you put it in\nthe box. Don t forget every seven or ten\nminutes to take out the article and rub it with\nthe tow and dry lime. It must not be kept\nlong in the air. Presently you should obtain a\nrich, dark blue. Finally, when blued, let it cool,\nthen oil (any oil).— English Mechanic.\nSteel, Bluing of. —I. Try the following: Scour\nthe steel with a small quantity of a strong aque-\nous solution of soda, rinse in water, warm, and\nbrush over with a solution of y^ of an oz.\nchloride of iron, dissolved in 5 oz. of water, and\nlet it dry; then apply in the same manner a solu-\ntion of 1-5 of an oz. pyrogallic acid in 1 oz. water,\ndry, and brush. Does not wear well without lac-\nquering. The blue oxide is sometimes imitated","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0058.jp2"},"59":{"fulltext":"Boiler.\nBoilers.\nby using a thin alcoholic shellac varnish, colored\nwith aniline blue or Prussian blue.\n2. The articles to be blued should have their\nsurfaces cleaned and polished. They may be\nthen heated in fine clean -wood ashes to a tem-\nperature of from 500° to 6U0°, according- to the\ndepth of the color required. It is not necessary\nto watch the temperature, but simply to exam-\nine the articles from time to time to see that\nwhen cooled in the air they assume the proper\ncolor. They should then be immediately re-\nmoved, and the operation is then completed.\n3. To blue steel without heat, mix finely pow-\ndered Prussian blue with rather thin shellac\ngently heat the steel and apply the varnish.\n4. Iron and Steel to Blue without Heat. So-\nlution of potassium ferricyahide and water,\n1:200 solution of ferric chloride, 1:200. Mix the\ntwo solutions and dip.\n5. Antimony trichloride, 25 parts; nitric acid,\nfuming, 25 parts; and hydrochloric acid, 50\nparts. Apply with a rag and rub until the\nproper color is obtained with a piece of green\noak.\nBobierre s Metal. See Alloys.\nBoiler Covering.— The following table\ngives the results of a series of experiments by\nMr. C. E. Emery, for the New York Steam Com-\npany\nMaterial conductivity.\nHair felt 100^\nMineral wool No. 2 83*2$\nMineral wool No. 2 and tar 71$\nSawdust 68$\nMineral wool No. 1 67*6$\nCharcoal 63*2$\nPinewood, across grain 55*3$\nLoam 55$\nGasworks lime, slaked 48$\nAsbestos 36*3$\nCoal ashes 34 5$\nFuelcoke 27 7$\nAir space, 2 in. deep 13*6$\nNon-conducting Coverings for Steam Pipes.—\nWe give following tests of Mr. G. B. Dumford,\nof Hamilton, Ont. These may be found superior\nin some cases to tests of Mr. C. E. Emery,\nin the Scientific American:\nCombination of asbestos, hair felt, air\nspace and wood 100$\nAsbestos and hair felt and chopped straw,\nthe straw mixed with lime putty 87$\nA plastic cement manufactured by parties\nat Troy, N. Y., with in. hair felt out-\nside 8Q-Q%\nPaper pulp mixed with lime putty, 1 in.\ncovered with sheeting of wood pulp 85$\nMineral wool cased with wood 81$\ncased with sheet iron 79$\nCharcoal 60$\nSawdust 41$\nLoam and chopped straw sealed with\nwood 32$\nAsbestos 29$\nCoal ashes 24$\nAir space 20$\nFire brick 15$\nKed brick 12$\nSand 9*3$\nBoiler Incrustations. See Incrusta-\ntions.\nBoilers, Paint for. See Paints.\nBoilers, to Preserve, when not in\nUse.— To lay up a portable boiler out of use.\nblow out or otherwise empty the water from\nthe boiler thoroughly while the iron is warm, so\nit will dry off inside. Take off a hand-hole\nplate, and (if no man-hole plate) take out the\nsafety valve, so as to permit a circulation of air\nthrough the interior. Take out the grate bars,\nand thoroughly clean off the ashes and soot\nfrom all parts of the furnace walls and the in-\nterior of the tubes. Store the boiler in a dry\nshed or barn, with the chimney stack standing,\nor in a dry place with an umbrella hood over\nthe top of the stack, so that dry air will draw\nthrough the furnace and tubes.\nBoilers, Steam, Rules for Manage-\nment of.— Engineers and users of steam power\nwill be benefited by keeping in constant mind\nthe following rules which the Hartford Steam\nBoiler Insurance Company keep posted in the\nboiler rooms where they have assured risks\n1. Condition of the Water.— The first duty of\nan engineer when he enters his boiler room in\nthe morning is to ascertain how rnany gauges\nof water there are in his boilers. Never un-\nbank nor replenish the fire until this is done.\nAccidents have occurred and many boilers have\nbeen entirely ruined from neglect of this pre-\ncaution.\n2. Low Water. In case of low water, imme-\ndiately cover the fire with ashes; or, if no ashes\nare at hand, use fresh coal. Do not turn on the\nfeed under any circumstances, nor tamper with\nnor open the safety valve. Let the steam out-\nlets remain as they are.\n3. In Case of Foaming.— Close the throttle,\nand keep closed long enough to show true level\nof water. If that level is sufficiently high, feed-\ning and blowing will usually suffice to correct\nthe evil. In case of violent foamings, caused by\ndirty water, or change from salt to fresh, or\nvice versa, in addition to the action above stated,\ncheck draught and cover fires with fresh coal.\n4. Leaks.— When leaks are discovered, they\nshould be repaired as soon as possible.\n5. Blowing Off.— Blow down, under a pressure\nnot exceeding 20 lb., at least once in two weeks;\nevery Saturday night would be better. In case\nthe feed becomes muddy, blow out 6 or 8 in.\nevery day. Where surface blow cocks are used,\nthey should be often opened for a few moments\nat a time.\n6. Filling up the Boiler.— After blowing down,\nallow the boiler to become cool, before filling\nup again. Cold water pumped into hot boilers\nis very injurious, from sudden contraction.\n7. Exterior of Boiler.— Care should be taken\nthat no water comes in contact with the exte-\nrior of the boiler, either from leaky joints or\nother causes.\n8. Removing Deposit and Sediment.— In tub-\nular boilers the hand holes should be often\nopened, and all collections removed from over\nthe fire. Also, when boilers are fed in front,\nand blown off through the same pipe, the collec-\ntion of mud or sediment in the rear end should\nbe often removed.\n9. Safety Valves. Raise the safety valves\ncautiously and frequently, as they are liable to\nbecome fast in their seats and useless for the\npurpose intended.\n10. Safety Valve and Pressure Gauge.— Should\nthe gauge at any time indicate the limit of\npressure allowed by this company, see that the\nsafety valves are blowing off. In case of differ-\nence, notify the company s inspector.\n11. Gauge Cocks, Glass Gauges.— Keep gauge\ncocks clear and in constant use. Glass gauges\nshould not be relied on altogether.\n12. Blisters.— When a blister appears, there\nmust be no delay in having it carefully exam-\nined and trimmed, or patched, as the case may\nrequire.\n13. Clean Sheets.— Particular care should be\ntaken to keep sheets and parts of boilers exposed\nto the fire perfectly clean also, all tubes, flues\nand connections well swept. This is particularly\nnecessary where wood or soft coal is used as\nfuel.\n14. General Care of Boilers and Connections.—\nUnder all circumstances keep the gauges, cocks,\netc., clean and in good order, and things gener-\nally in and about the engine and boiler room in\na neat condition.\nBoilers, Rules for Strength of.— To find the safe\npressure a cylindrical boiler will bear in pounds\nper square inch Divide the thickness of the\nplate in inches by the diameter of the boiler in\ninches, and multiply the quotient by 5,000 for a","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0059.jp2"},"60":{"fulltext":"Boiling.\nBottles.\ncopper boiler with single riveted shell by 6,400\nfor a copper boiler with double riveted shell\nby 7,600 for a wrought iron boiler Avith single\nriveted shell by 9,000 for a wrought iron boiler\ndouble riveted; by 10,000 for a steel boiler single\nriveted; by 13,000 for a steel boiler double\nriveted.\nBoiling Points. See Temperature,\nEffects of.\nBoils.— 1. If the inflammation is very great,\npoultices may be applied for a few hours. At\nthe same time internal medicines are plainly\nindicated. Indolent boils may be covered once\ndaily with glycerine, 1 drm.; extract of conium,\n1 drm.; extract of belladonna, 1 drm.; made\ninto an ointment with 1 oz. of ceratum resinae.\nA druggist should prepare this. In very chronic\ncases the boil may be painted with iodine tinc-\nture once daily.\n2. The exciting cause should receive attention.\nBoils are often due to general debility or an\nimpoverished state of the blood. Iron, quinine,\nand the potassium salts have been found in such\ncases, used either alone or combined, most ad-\nvantageous. For local application, strong car-\nbolic acid will arrest the pain and relieve all\nirritability. Naphthol ointment, balsam of\nPeru, or a strong solution of the mercurial\ncorrosive chloride can be used with great bene-\nfit to the parts.— Phila. Bulletin.\nBole.— The name of several argillaceous\nminerals, varying in color from white to yel-\nlow, red, and brown, which they owe chiefly to\niron.\nBone, to Polish. See Polishing.\nBones, to Clean and Prepare. See\nCleansing.\nBones, to Utilize.— The following plan has\nbeen suggested for utilizing bones Place them\nin a large kettle filled with ashes, with about\n1 peck of lime to 1 barrel of bones. Cover with\nwater and boil. After twenty-four hours\nnearly all the bones will be soft enough to be\npulverized by hand. The rest may have to be\nboiled ten or twelve hours longer. When pul-\nverized they will be in the form of paste, and\nsuitable to mix with other manure.\nBookbinders Lacquer. See Lac-\nquers.\nBookbinders Varnish, See Var-\nnishes.\nBook Edges, to Polish. See Polish-\ning.\nBooks, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nBooks, to Giid. See Gilding.\nBooks, to Bepair.— The first thing is to\nsecure the loose leaves. Odd leaves can be fixed\nin with paste or thin glue. If a whole section is\nloose, first sew it with stout thread, leaving\nlong ends at the back, and then tie these ends\nto the part that goes before and the part that\nfollows. A sheet of paper glued on the back\nwill fix it in its place, letting a little glue go in\nbefore and after the sewed section. If the\nbook has slipped out of the cover, leaving the\ncover intact, the best way is to strip all the\npaper off the back (not sides) of the cover, leav-\ning the cloth (or leather, as the case may be)\nbare then glue the back of the quires, and\nstick them on the cloth. This, with or without\nnew end papers, will complete the job. This\nmakes what is called a tight back but it will\nopen fairly well if all the padding is taken out,\nas directed above, and will make a strong bind-\ning. If only one cover is torn off, it can be\nfastened on thus: Raise the leather of the\ncover from the millboard with a penknife to trie\ndepth of Yz in. (or less if book is small). Get a\npiece of cloth, about 1 in. wide, and glue this\ninto the opening made do the same with the\nback of the book, and put in the remaining Yz\nin. of cloth with glue, and the job is done. They\nare not handsome, but are always strong.\nBooks, Sizes of.— The associated librarians\nof Great Britain recently fixed upon the follow-\ning scale of measurements for the sizes of books.\nThe inferior limit of each size being the superior\nlimit of the size below it\nLarge folio la. f o over 18 in.\nFolio fo below 18 in.\nSmall folio sm.fo 13 in.\nLarge octavo. la. 8o 11 in.\nOctavo 8o 9 in.\nSmall octavo sm. 8o\nDuodecimo 12o 8 in.\nDecimo octavo 18o is 6 in.\nMinimo mo below 6 in.\nLarge quarto la. 4o 15 in.\nQuarto 4o 11 in.\nSmall quarto sm. 4o 8 in.\nTo designate unusual sizes the additional\nterms square, sq., narrow, nar., and oblong, ob.»\nare to be used.\nBoots, Blacking for. See Blacking.\nAlso Shoes.\nBoot Powders. See Powders.\nBoots, Squeaky.— A journal suggests their\ncure by the injection of powdered French chalk\nthrough a perforation in the inner sole, and\nadds that the free use of the same substance be-\ntween soles when boots are being made will\neffectually prevent any trouble of this nature.\nBoot-top Iiiquid.— 1. Solution of muriate\nof tin 3 drm., French chalk, or Venetian talc, in\npowder 1 oz., potassium binoxalate Yz oz., flake\nwhite 1 oz., burnt alum Yz oz., powdered cuttle\nfish bone 1 oz., white arsenic 1 oz., boiling water\n1 qt. Probably sulphate of barytes might be\nsubstituted for arsenic, the use of which it is\ndesirable to discourage.\n2. Sour milk 3 pt., cream of tartar 2 oz., oxalic\nacid 1 oz., and alum 1 oz.\n3. Wash the tops with soap and water, and\nscrape them with the back of a knife. Then\napply the following with a hair foot brush:\nOxalic acid 1 oz., water 1 pt,; use the back of a\nknife as before then polish with the following:\nPowdered gum arabic Yz oz., red spirits of lav-\nender 2 oz., powdered turmeric Yz oz.; pencil\nthis over the top, let it half dry, then polish by\nrubbing it, one way only, with a flannel till it\nshines.\n4. Sour milk 3 pt., butter of antimony 2 oz.,\ncream of tartar 2 oz., citric acid, alum, burnt\nalum, of each 1 oz.\n5. White top 1 oz. each of magnesia, alum,\ncream of tartar and oxalic acid, 34 oz. potassium\nbinoxalate, and J4 oz. sugar of lead dissolve in\n1 qt. of water, and apply with a sponge.\n6. Brown top Oxalic acid, alum, annatto, of\neach 1 oz., isinglass Yz oz., sugar of lead Yz oz.,\nsalt of sorrel J4 oz.; boil together in 1 qt. of\nwater for ten minutes. Apply with a sponge.\nBoots, Varnish for. See Varnishes.\nBorax, Substitute for.— Copperas 2 oz.,\nsaltpeter 1 oz., common salt 6 oz., black oxide\nmanganese 1 oz., prussiate of potash 1 oz., all\npulverized and mixed with 3 lb. nice welding\nsand. Use the same as you would sand. High\ntempered steel can be welded with this at a\nlower heat than is required for borax.\nBottle Caps, Varnish for. See Var-\nnishes.\nBottle Cements. See Cements.\nBottle Wax. See Waxes.\nBottles, to Cleanse., See Cleansing.\nBottles, to I abel.— 1. By etching: Barium\nsulphate, 3 oz.; ammonium fluoride, 1 oz.; to\nwhich add sufficient sulphiuic acid to decom-\npose the ammonium fluoride and make the mix-\nture semi-fluid. The ink must be prepared in\na leaden dish and kept in a lead or gutta\npercha bottle. It is applied to the glass with a\ncamel s hair brush or quiil pen, and when suffi-\nciently etched the granulated letters should be\nfilled in with some white or black pigment.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0060.jp2"},"61":{"fulltext":"Bottles.\n49\nBrass.\n2. The sand blast and other mechanical\nengraving- methods are altogether out of the\nquestion for any but professional glass cutters.\nNor can the letters be cut very satisfactorily\nand legibly with a diamond. We have, then,\nnothing left but paper labels, and, as an adhe-\nsive preparation for such, experiment has\nshown the following formula to be about the\nbest: Gum arabic, 1 oz.; gum tragacanth (pulv.),\n1 oz.; acetic acid, 40 min.; glycerine, 1 oz.;\nwater, 2 oz. Dissolve the gums in the water,\nhot; then add the %cid and glycerine. The\nnext difficulty as regards paper labels is the\nfugitive qualities of ordinary writing ink. A\nbottle labeled nitric acid, with a good bold\nblack ink, may, in a few hours, bear nothing\nbut a label with a few yellow stains upon it to\ndenote its contents.\n3. The f ohowing, then, will be found to be a\ngood non-corrosive ink and as near indestruct-\nible as writing fluids can be made Oil of laven-\nder, loz.; powdered copal, 1 drm.; lampblack, 6\ngr.; indigo, 2 gr. Dissolve the copal in the oil by\ngently heating, then add the lampblack and in-\ndigo. Coat both label and upon the glass sur-\nrounding it two or three times with the follow-\ning varnish, by means of a camel s hair brush,\nfirst sizing the label with a solution of isinglass\nin water: Canada balsam, 1 oz.; spirits of turpen-\ntine, 2 oz.\n4. Affix a common paper label and let it dry\nthen heat the label (by a Bunsen burner or very\nsmall flame) till it will just melt paraffine rubbed\non it. The label is absolutely protected, and looks\nas if it were enameled on the glass. If the neck\nand lip of the bottle and the stopper are simi-\nlarly treated, a perfect air-tight joint is secured\nand the stopper never sets, while liquids can be\npoured out without running down the sides.\nBottles, Glass, to Cut. See Glass.\nBottles, Show. See Show Bottles.\nBouquet. See Perfumes.\nBows, Violin, to Clean. See Cleans-\ning.\nBows, Violin, Resin for.— 1. For violin\nresin boil down Venice turpentine with a little\nwater until a drop cooled on a piece of glass is\nof proper consistency. During the boiling\ncold water must be added from time to time.\nWhen sufficiently thick pour into cold water,\nknead well, and when cold break into pieces.\nExpose to sun until dry and transparent.\n2. Select the best clear brown resin, melt it in\na clean basin, to nearly a boil, which will clear\nit of turpentine or other volatile oils. Pour in\npaper moulds.\nBranding Ink. See Inks.\nBrandy. See Liquors.\nBrandy Smash.— 1. 1 tablespoon water,\ntablespoon of white sugar, 1 wine glass bran-\ndy. Fill the tumbler full shaved ice, put in\n2 sprigs of mint. Put 2 small pieces of orange\non top.\n2. A small lump of sugar, 1 tablespoonful of\ncold water, and 1 wine glass of brandy. Fill\nfull shaved ice, use 2 sprigs ot mint. Lay 2 small\npieces of orange on top, and ornament with\nberries in season.\nBrass Compositions. See Alloys.\nBrass, to Black. See Blacking Met-\nals.\nBrass, to Blue. See Bluing.\nBrass, to Bronze. See Bronzing.\nBrass, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nBrass, Coloring and Finishing of.\nSee also Bronzing.\nBronze, Barbklienne, on Brass.— Freshly pre-\ncipitated arsenious sulphide is dissolved in am-\nmonia, and an timonious sulphide is added until a\ndark yellow color is produced. Heat the solu-\ntion carefully to about 95° F. Leave the arti-\ncles in the bath until they have acquired a\ndark brown color, and develop the color by\nscratch brushing.\nSteel Blue on Brass.— Dissolve 3 drm. of anti-\nmony sulphide and 4 oz. calcined soda in 1^£ pt.\nof water. To this add 5J^ drm. of kermes. Fil-\nter, and mix this solution with 5^j drm. of\ntartar, 11 drm. of sodium hyposulphite, and 1)4\npt. water. If polished sheet brass is placed in\nthe warm mixture, it will assume a beautiful\nsteel blue color.\nSteel-gray Coating on Brass.— Antimonic sul-\nphide and fine iron filings, 1 part of each;\nhydrochloric acid, 3 parts; and water 3 or 4\nparts.\nGreen Color on Brass.— The repeated applica-\ntions, to copper or brass, of alternate washes\nof dilute acetic acid and exposure to the fumes\nof ammonia will give a very antique-looking\ngreen bronze but a quick mode of producing\na similar appearance is often desirable. To this\nend the articles may be immersed in a solution\nof 1 part perchloride of iron in 2 parts water.\nThe tone assumed darkens with the length of\nimmersion. Or the articles may be boiled in a\nstrong solution of nitrate of copper. Or, lastly,\nthey may be immersed in a solution of 2 oz.\nnitrate of iron and 2 oz. hyposulphite of soda\nin 1 pt. water. Washing, drying and burnishing\ncomplete the process.\nBrass, Miscellaneous Colors oh.— 1. An orange\ntint inclining to gold is produced by first pol-\nishing the brass and then plunging it for a few\nseconds in a warm neutral solution of crystal-\nlized copper acetate. Dipping 1 into a bath of\ncopper, the resulting tint is a grayish green.\n2. A beautiful violet is obtained by immers-\ning the metal for an instant in a solution of\nchloride of antimony and rubbing it with a stick\ncovered with cotton. During this operation the\nbrass should be heated to a degree just tolerable\nto the touch.\n3. A moire appearance, vastly superior to that\nusually seen, is produced by boiling the object\nin a solution of sulphate of copper. There are\ntwo methods of procuring a black lacquer on\nthe surface of brass. The first, which is usually\nemployed by instrument makers, consists in\npolishing the object with tripoli and washing it\nwith a mixture composed of nitrate of tin 1 part,\nchloride of gold 2 parts. Allow this wash to\nremain for fifteen minutes, then wipe it off with\na linen cloth. An excess of acid increases the\nintensity of the tint. In the second method,\ncopper turnings, are dissolved in nitric acid until\nthe latter is saturated; the objects are immersed\nin the solution, cleaned and subsequently heated\nmoderately over a charcoal tire. This process\nmust be repeated in order to produce a black\ncolor, as the first trial only gives a dark green.\nFinally, polish with olive oil.\n4. The following is one of the compositions\nthat turn out a rich color\nLake copper lib.\nTin loz.\nZinc J^oz.\nLead y% oz.\nTime, seven to twenty minutes, according to\nthickness of castings.\n5. The fifth method is done with chloride of\nplatinum. For this purpose they are first heated\nto redness, and then dipped in a weak solution\nof sulphuric acid. Afterward they are im-\nmersed in dilute nitric acid, thoroughly washed\nin water and dried in sawdust. To effect a uni-\nformity in the color, they are plunged in a bath\nconsisting of 2 parts nitric acid and 1 part rain\nwater, where they are suffered to remain for\nseveral minutes. Should the color not be free\nfrom spots and patches, the operations must be\nrepeated until the desired effect is produced.—\nEng. Median.\n6. Copper or brass may be bronzed in various\nmodes. The l-epeated applications of alternate\nwashes of dilute acetic acid and exposure to the\nfumes of ammonia will give a very antique-\nlooking green bronze; but a quick mode of pro-\nducing a simdar appearance is oiten desirable.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0061.jp2"},"62":{"fulltext":"Brass.\n50\nBrass.\nTo this end the articles may be immersed in a\nsolution of 1 part perehloride of iron in 2 parts\nof water. The tone assumed darkens with the\nlength of immersion.\n7. The articles may be boiled in a strong- solu-\ntion of nitrate of copper.\n8. Lastly, they may be immersed in a solution\nof 2 oz. nitrate of iron and 2 oz. hyposulphite of\nsoda in a pt. of water. Washing, drying, and\nbrushing complete the process.\n9. The best means for producing a black sur-\nface on brass, pinchbeck, or silver is said to be\nplatinum chloride, which is allowed to liquefy\nby exposure to the air. It is rubbed in with the\nfinger, or, best, with the ball of the thumb. After\nblacking, the object is washed and polished with\noil and leather. Platinum chloride is dear, but\na little of it will do a great deal of work.\n10. Ordinary gas fittings are pickled; but if\nyou want to get a good bronze, you can use\neither a solution of nitrate of silver or bichloride\nof platinum. The articles will require black-\nleading after being bronzed, and should be\nwarmed before being dipped into the bronzing\nsolution.\n11. A solution of nitro-muriate of platinum\nwill blacken brass quicker than anything else\nbut possibly 2 oz. corrosive sublimate dissolved\nin 1 qt. of vinegar will act quickly enough. This\nsolution is brushed over the brass, allowed to\nremain till the latter is black; it is then wiped\noff, and the brass cleaned and blackleaded.\n12. A very good black varnish may be made\nby mixing a small quantity of pure lampblack\nwith rather thick brass lacquer, using as little\nlampblack as possible. Another varnish may be\nmade by fusing 3 lb. asphaltum, and when\nmelted add J^ lb. shellac and 1 gal. oil of turpen-\ntine.\n13. If merely wanted to black it, brush on a\nmixture of best vegetable black and French\npolish. This will give a nice dead black, or mod-\nify the deadness by the addition of polish.\n14. Make a strong solution of nitrate of silver\nin one dish and of nitrate of copper in another.\nMix the two together, and plunge the brass into\nthe mixture. Remove and heat the brass evenly\nuntil the required degree of dead blackness is\nobtained.\n15. Finely powder a small quantity of sal\nammoniac and moisten with soft water. Heat\nthe article to be colored over a charcoal fire and\nrub over with this mixture; then dry with bran\nand whiting.\n16. Wash the brasswork with roach alum dis-\nsolved by boiling in strong lye in the proportion\nof 1 oz. alum to 1 pt. lye, and when dry rub with\nfine tripoli. Either of these processes will give\nto brass the appearance and brilliancy of gold.\nMany receipts for coloring brass will be found\nunder Bronzing.\nBrass, Polished, Colors for. Mr. E. Eber-\nmeyer has just published in the Zeitschrift\nfur der Chemie Indust. formulas for a number\nof baths, designed to give polished brass vari-\nous colors. The brass objects are put into\nboiling solutions composed of different salts,\nand the intensity of the shade obtained is »de-\npendent upon the duration of the immersion.\n1. With a solution composed of sulphate of\ncopper 120 grn., hydrochlorate of ammonia 30\ngrn., water 1 qt., greenish shades are obtained.\n2. With the following solution all the shades\nof brown from orange brown to cinnamon are\nobtained Chlorate of potash 150 grn., sulphate\nof copper 150 grn., water 1 qt.\n3. The following solution gives the brass first\na rosy tint and then colors it violet and blue\nSulphate of copper 435 grn., hyposulphite of\nsoda 300 grn., cream of tartar 150 grn., water\nlpt.\n4. Upon adding to the last solution ammoni-\nacal sulph. of iron 300 grn., hyposulphite of soda\n300 grn., there are obtained, according to the\nduration of the immersion, yellowish, oi-ange,\nrosy, then bluish shades. Upon polarizing the\nebullition, the blue tint gives way to yellow,\nand finally to a pretty gray. Silver, under the\nsame circumstances, becomes very beautifully\ncolored.\n5. After a long ebullition in the following\nsolution we obtain a yellow brown shade, and\nthen a remarkable fire red Chlorate of potash\n75 grn., carbonate of nickel 30 grn., salt of\nnickel 75 grn., water 10 oz.\n6. The following solution gives a beautiful\ndark brown color: Chlorate of potash 75 grn.,\nsalt of nickel 150 grn., water 10 oz.\n7. The following gives,* in the first place, a\nred, which passes to blue, then to pale lilac,\nand finally to white: Orpiment 75 grn., crys-\ntallized sal soda 150 grn., water 10 oz.\n8. The following gives a yellow brown Salt\nof nickel 75 grn., sulphate of copper 75 grn.,\nchlorate of potash 75 grn., water 10 oz.\n9. On mixing the following solutions, sulphur\nseparates and the brass becomes covered with\niridescent crystallizations: I.— Cream of tartar\n75 grn., sulphate of copper 75 grn., water 10 oz.\nII.— Hyposulphite of soda 225 grn., water 5 oz.\n10. Upon leaving the brass objects immersed\nin the following mixture, contained in corked\nvessels, they at length acquire a very beautiful\nblue color Hepar of sulphur 15 grn., ammonia\n75 grn., water 4 oz.\n11. Brass, to Cover with Beautiful Luster Col-\nors.— Mr. Puscher communicates a process by\nwhich this much desired end may be easily at-\ntained. 1 oz. of cream of tartar is dissolved in\n1 qt. hot water, to which is added oz. tin salt\n(protochloride of tin) dissolved in 4 oz. cold\nwater. The whole is then heated to boiling, the\nclear solution decanted from a trifling precipi-\ntate, and poured under continual stirring into\na solution of 3 oz. hyposulphite of soda in J^pt.\nwater, whereupon it is again heated to boiling,\nand filtered from the separated sulphur. This\nsolution produces on brass the various luster\ncolors, depending on the length ©f time which\nthe articles are allowed to remain in it. The\ncolors at first will be light to dark gold yellow,\npassing through all the tints of red to an irides-\ncent brown. A similar series of colors is pro-\nduced by sulphide of copper and lead, which,\nhowever, are not remarkable for their stability\nwhether this defect will be obviated by the use\nof the tin solution, experience and time alone\ncan show.\n12. Brass, Dip for.— A good dip for cast\nbrass is sulphuric acid, 1 qt.; nitric acid, 1 qt.;\nwater, 1 Qt. Gold lacquer for undipped brass is\nalcohol, 4 gal.; turmeric, 3 lb.; gamboge, 3 oz.;\nsandarac, 7 lb.; shellac, 1% lb.; turpentine var-\nnish, 1 pt. Green bronze dip is wine vinegar, 2\nqt.; verditer green, 2 oz.; sal ammoniac, 1 oz.;\nsalt, 2 oz.: alum, oz.; French berries, 8 oz.;\nboil together.\nCurling.— This fine finish is often seen on fine\noptical brass work. Remove all scratches and\ngive a high polish by using files, emery paper,.\nAyr stone, and at last fine rotten stone. Keep\nwet with water and produce the curling with\nthe aid of a pointed stick of charcoal. The\nmotion should be circular.\nDipping and Pickliug Brass.— It is preferable\nto employ at first a weak liquid containing salts\nof copper and zinc from previous operations,\nand termed pickle, which slowly removes the\nsurface coating and leaves the metal smooth.\nDilute sulphuric acid is also used as a pickle for\nsheet copper, being slower and more uniform in\nits action in proportion to the degree of dilution.\nNitric acid, which is the chief constituent of\naquafortis, exerts a more powerfully solvent\naction on zinc than on copper, so that the sur-\nface of dipped brass assumes a warmer tone,\nshading more or less into. a reddish yellow.\nTo some extent the color may be varied by\nusing aquafortis of different strengths, pro-\nbably depending on the component metals\nbeing dissolved in different ratios by acids\nof varying densities. Nitric acid, contain-\ning a certain quantity of nitrous acid, is\ncapable of producing different shades of color.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0062.jp2"},"63":{"fulltext":"Brass.\n51\nBrass.\nTo obtain such a mixture small quantities of\norganic substances are used lor the purpose of\ngenerating nitrous fumes, by the action of con-\ncentrated nitric acid upon them. Thus saw-\ndust added to strong nitric acid imparts an\norange yellow color, due to the partial decom-\nposition of the acid and the formation of\nnitrous acid. Dead dipping is the name applied\nto the process of producing a dead yellow sur-\nface on brass work by dipping in suitable\nliquids. The work is first pickled in dilute or\nspent acid until the scale can be removed by\nrubbing. It is then well swilled and placed in\nstronger acid, which acts much more promptly,\ngiving rise to a Irothy appearance. This is re-\nmoved by rinsing the work in water, alter\nwhich it is dipped in strong nitric acid for a few\nseconds, washed in water, and then washed in\nwater containing dissolved d/rgol, finally being-\ndried in hot sawdust. The argol solution is\nsaid to prevent a brownish discoloration, or\nmottling of the surface, which would otherwise\noccur. In this last dipping it is important that\neach article should be dipped separately, and\nnot a number strung together on wire, as is\noften the case in the former dippings.— Hioms.\n1. Brass, Gold Dip for.— Soak in the following\nbefore dipping: Caustic potash dissolved in ten\ntimes its weight of water.\n2. The gold bath is composed of distilled\nwater, 17 pt.; pyrophosphate of soda, 28 oz.;\nhydrocyanic acid of Y prussic acid, y% of an oz.\ncrystallized perchloride of gold, y s oz. The py-\nrophosphate is dissolved in 16 pts. of water,\nheated, filtered, and cooled. The filtered solu-\ntion of the gold chloride is added, and then the\nhydrocyanic acid, when the whole is raised\nnearly to the boiling point for use. Before\nentering the bath the articles should be passed\nthrough a solution of water 2£ gals.; nitrate\nof binoxide of mercury, oz.; sulphuric acid,\n%oz.\nBrass, to Dull.— Take 1 part by weight of iron\nrust, 1 part white arseuic, and 12 parts hydro-\nchloric acid, mix. Clean the brass thoroughly,\nand apply with a brush until the color desired\nis obtained; then oil well, dry, and lacquer.\nBras Finishing by Mottling.— The brass is first\npolished to the required degree, and, if it is a\nfine surface, the mottled appearance is imparted\nby rubbing overifwith a gyratory motion a\nScotch gray stone moistened with water. If the\nwork is not very tine, a piece of tine emery\npaper may be used in the same way. If it is\ncoarse, a dead smooth file may be used. An-\nother method is to secure emery cloth or paper\nto the end of a small round stick, placing the\nstick in the universal chuck of a lathe, holding\nthe work against it with a light pressure, and\nmoving it along while the lathe revolves.\nBrass Finishing.— If the work to be finished is\ngreasy, it should be cleaned by heating and dip-\nping in acidulated water— vinegar and water, or\nwashing soda in water— and then in Clearwater.\nThe finishing bath may be either nitric acid 2\nparts, water 1 part; or 1 part sal ammoniac, 1\npart sulphuric acid, 1 part nitric acid, 1 part\nwater; all by measure, and the sal ammoniac to\nbe dissolved in water until a satm-ated solution\nis obtained. The articles should not be allowed\nto remain in the acid more than ten seconds,\nthen taken out, plunged into clear cold water,\nthence into hot soapy water, and dried in hot\nsawdust.\nFrosting Brasswork.— If old work it should be\nwashed or boiled in potash to remove the\nlacquer; then pickled in water to which a little\nnitrous acid has been added. It is now dipped\nin strong nitrous acid (mind your fingers),\nwashed quickly in hot water, and dried in saw-\ndust. The bright parts should now be bur-\nnished. To finish: Heat the work on a stove\ntill it is as hot as you can hold it, and then\nlacquer. This must be done as soon as pos-\nsible, or it will tarnish.\nOlive Green on Brass.— Copper sulphate, 8\nparts; sal ammoniac, 2 parts; water, 1U0 parts.\nBoil and leave the articles suspended in it until\nthe proper color is reached.\nPatina.— This beautiful color was originally\nproduced by articles being exposed for a long\ntime to the action of the atmosphere. The\ngreen color is largely imitated by any of the fol-\nlowing methods: 1. Copper carbonate is tritu-\nrated with sandarac varnish. This affords the\ncheapest and poorest imitation and is largely\nused in painting the little iron castings which\nare so lai gely sold in Rome for souvenirs.\n2. 1 part of copper is dissolved in 2 parts of\nnitric acid, 15 parts of vinegar and part of\nammonium chloride are added. The articles for\nwhich brass should be used should be allowed to\nstand for several days and afterward wiped\nwith linseed oil which is old and gummy.\n3. Use a solution* of cupric nitrate in which 10\nof salt has been added and when the article is\nthoroughly dry apply a solution of 20 fl. oz. of\nvinegar, 1 oz. of ammonium chloride and 2 drm.\nof oxalic acid. Repeat if necessary, and in the\ncourse of a few days the article will be finely\ncolored.\nProtecting Brass from Tarnish.— To keep brass\nfrom tarnishing, after thoroughly cleaning and\nremoving the last traces of grease by the use of\npotash and water, the cage or other brass work\nmust be carefully rinsed with water and dried,\nbut in doing it care must be taken not to\nhandle any portion with the bare hand, nor\nanything else that is greasy. The preservative\nvarnish may be shellac, much diluted with\nalcohol, or it may be hard oil finish. In either\ncase, the brass should be made pretty warm,\nand the varnish or shellac put on with a brush\nin as thin a coat as possible. The proportion of\nshellac to alcohol is about two ounces of the for-\nmer to nine ounces of the latter. Sometimes\ngamboge is used for a coloring matter to make\nthe varnish more yellow, and sometimes dra-\ngon s blood.\nTo Produce a Silver White Coating on Brass.—\nCream of tartar, 23 parts; tartar emetic, 2\nparts; dissolve in 500 parts hot water; add to\nthis hydrochloric acid, 25 parts; powdered or\nfine granulated tin, 62^ parts powdered anti-\nmony, 15 parts. Heat to boiling, dip in the\narticles to be coated. Boil for ^jhour, the brass\nwill have a hard, durable silver white coating.\nViolet Color on Brass.— 1 lb. 2 oz. of hyposul-\nphite of soda is dissolved in 1 gal. of water. In\nanother gal. of water dissolve 6 oz. of lead\nacetate (crystallized). Mix the two solutions\ntogether and heat from 170° to 180°. Clean the\narticles thoroughly and leave them in the solu-\ntion until the proper color is reached.\nBrass, to Whiten.— In 2 gal. of water dissolve\n3 lb. cream of tartar, and 4 lb. of very finely\ndivided tin are added. This bath can also be\nused for copper.\nBrass Movements, Polish for.— Spanish whiting\nis mixed with clear rain water in the proportion\nof 2 lb. to the gal. Stir and let stand for a few\nminutes to allow the gritty portion to settle\ndecant off the water into another vessel and\nagain allow it to stand. The settlings in the\nsecond vessel are mixed with jeweler s rouge\nand used for polishing.\nTo Roughen Sheet Brass, for Painting with Oil\nPaint.— Make a pickle of concentrated hydro-\nchloric acid, 1% parts concentrated sulphuric\nacid, 12 parts water, 12 parts. Place the brass in\nthis pickle and allow it to remain for 12 hours.\nThis gives the brass a moire-like appearance.\nRemove and wash with water. If it is desired\nto hasten the process, use a mixture of potas-\nsium bichromate and hydrochloric acid or a\ngalvanic battery.\nBrass, Etcliing on. See Etching.\nBrass, Fluxes for. See Fluxes.\nBrass, to Gild. See Gilding.\nBrass, Lacquers for. See Lacquers.\nBrass, Melting.— The operation is rarely\nat first accomplished by amateurs without con-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0063.jp2"},"64":{"fulltext":"Brass.\n52\nBronze.\nsiderable difficulty. It requires a good furnace,\ncapable of fusing copper, and a crucible capa-\nble of withstanding the high temperature. For\nthis latter reason black lead crucibles are gen-\nerally employed. The crucible is placed in the\nnewly made fire, so as to heat up gradually.\nWhen well heated, place in your copper in small\npieces, and force your fire until the copper is\njust fluid then place in your zinc, stirring the\nfused alloy meanwhile. Do not allow- the tem-\nperature to rise too high, as in this case a great\npart of the zinc will be volatilized, and, coming\ninto contact with the air, will become ignited\nand converted into a copious white vapor of\noxide of zinc. It is advisable to keep the sur-\nface of the fused metal covered with a quantity\nof chloride of ammonium (sal ammoniac), in\norder to preserve the surface free from oxide\nand clean.\nBrass, to Silver. See Silvering-.\nBrass, Solder for. See Soldering.\nBrasses. See Alloys.\nBrasses for Bearings. See Alloys.\nBrassing Iron. Remove all organic mat-\nter from the surface of the iron, and plunge it\ninto melted brass. The coating of brass which\nis spread over the iron may be polished or bur-\nnished.\nBrassing by Electricity. See Electro-\nmetallurgy.\nBrazil Wood.— A dye stuff furnished by\nseveral species of trees of the genus Ccesalpinia,\nand much used in dyeing various shades of\nred.\nB razing .—Brazing Aluminum.— Aluminum\nbronze will braze as well as any other metal by\nusing }4 brass solder (copper, 50%, zinc, 50$), and\nborax.\nSteel, to Braze.— The following solder will braze\nsteel, and may be found very useful in case of\na valve stem or other light portion breaking\nwhen it is important that the engine should\ncontinue to work for some time longer Silver,\n19 parts; copper, 1 part; brass, 2 parts. If prac-\nticable, charcoal dust should be strewed over\nthe melted metal of the crucible.\nBread, Aerated.— Divide 3 lb. flour into\ntwo portions mix up the first with water hold-\ning in solution 2 oz. bicarbonate of soda then\nmix the second portion of flour with water to\nwhich 1 oz. of muriatic acid has been added\nknead each mass of the dough thoroughly.\nWhen this is done, mix both portions together\nas rapidly and perfectly as possible, form the\nmass into loaves, and bake immediately. This\nbread contains no yeast, and is very wholesome.\nYou can, if you prefer, use a baking powder\nsuch as the following\nPowdered cream tartar 30 oz.\nBicarbonate of soda 15\nFlour... 6\nAll well dried mix thoroughly and keep dry.\nBreath, Offensive.— Causes The primary\nare constitutional, the proximate are an un-\nhealthy state of the mucous membrane of the\nmouth, gullet and stomach. It is weak and in-\nactive, and its cells are not properly cast off\nand renewed, the external layers being slowly\ndisintegrated. Another proximate cause is the\nretention of undigested food in the stomach.\nTreatment: This, in the main, must be consti-\ntutional. The odor may be corrected by wash-\ning out the mouth with Condy s fluid, and by\ntaking the following draught twice a day\nChlorate of notash 15 grn.\nWater. 1 oz.\nSmoker s Breath, etc.— Do not smoke bad to-\nbacco, which leaves an abominable odor about\nthe person and contaminates the breath almost\nbeyond immediate i-emedying. The same may\nbe said of bad cigars. The following is an old\nformula for removing the odor of tobacco\nfrom the mouth after smoking it is to be used\nas a wash\nCalcium chloride 2 drm.\nWater 1 oz.\nAgitate for half an hour and filter. Then add\nRectified spirit 1 oz.\nRose water y oz.\nFor sore tongue, the simplest remedy is to\nwash out the mouth with\nGlycerine 1 part.\nPowdered chalk 1 part.\nWater ....8 parts.\nThis will of course require to be shaken up be-\nfore using.\nBrewer s Cement. See Cements.\nBrick, New Kind of.— Messrs. Bleininger\nHasselmann, two German chemists, have, it\nis said, recently patented a method for obtain-\ning products that will be more resisting to\nhumidity, etc., than ordinary bricks and tiles.\nAfter drying and grinding the clay, they make\na mixture as follows\nClay .91^ parts.\nIron filings 3\nTable salt 2\nPotash V/\nElder or willow wood ashes. 2\nThe whole is heated to a temperature varying\nfrom 1,850° to 2,000° C. (3,362° to 3,632° F.) At\nthe end of from four to five hours the argillace-\nous mixture is run into moulds, then rebaked\nin the ovens (always protected from the air) at\na temperature of 842° to 932° F. The product\nmay be variously colored by adding to the\nabove 100 parts 2 parts of manganese for a\nviolet brown, 1 part of manganese for violet, 1\npart of copper ashes for green, 1 part arseniate\nof cobalt for blue, 2 parts of antimony for yel-\nlow, and 1% parts of arsenic and 1 part of oxide\nof tin for white. These products resist the\naction of acids, and are well adapted for sewers,\netc.\nBricks, to Stain. See Staining.\nBrilliantine. See The Hair.\nBristles, to Bleach. See Bleaching.\nBristles, to Bye. See-jDyeing.\nBristles, to Stiffen.— Immerse the bristles\nfor a short time in cold alum water.\nBritannia, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nBritannia Metal. See Alloys.\nBritannia Metal, Solder for; See Sol-\ndering.\nBroadcloth, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nBronze. See Alloys.\nBronze Casting.— Bronze is generally supposed\nto be a mixture of copper and tin, but various\nthings are used from 3 to 4 parts of copper- to\n1 part of tin, or 6, 7 or 8 parts of copper to 1\npart of zinc these are dark red bronze. Lighter\ngold bronzed with less copper. As for the\nmoulding of the articles, that will depend upon\nwhat it is, a bust or a ball; and it would take\nup a great deal of our space to describe. If you\nwish to make a bronze casting off a plaster bust,\nfirst make a plaster mould of the exterior, then\nmake a hollow wax model as the hollow plaster\ncasts are made; take out and trim up, and imbed\nin some tine sand tempered with salt and water,\nand place in a warm place to become dry. You\ncan afterward subject it to a greater heat and\nrun the wax out, or let the mould absorb it, and\nwhile your mould is hot you may pour the metal\nin. Do not put it by to absorb the moisture\nagain before using it. Fletcher s furnaces will,\nI have not the least doubt, answer your pur-\npose in a small way. To color after dressing\nup: Cover with wet blacklead, and brush up to\na polish, for black or dark green; and for red,\nwith Venetian red; and for the green dust,\nsuspend it over the fumes of vinegar or acetic\nacid.\nBronze, to Clean. See Cleansing.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0064.jp2"},"65":{"fulltext":"Bronze.\n53\nBronzing.\nBronze, to Color.— As to the coloring- which\nmay be given to bronze, and which is obtained\nby various methods of oxidation, the following\nare some of the methods in vogue\n1. The dull color of medal bronze is obtained\nby rubbing with a mixture of red ocher and\nblacklead applied by a brush.\n2. The antique green is obtained by washing\nthe metal in a liquid made of 10 gr. marine\nsalt, the same quantity of cream of tartar and\nacetate of copper, the whole dissolved in 200\ngr. vinegar and 30 gr. carbonate of soda.\n3. The Florentine is obtained by means of\ngreen vitriol (sulphate of iron), and then rub-\nbing with wax.\n4. The citron tint is obtained by means of red\nocher mixed with lampblack and oil.\n5. The old green bronze is obtained by several\ndippings in acid, and subsequently with wax.\n6. Verdigris is obtained by means of sal\nammoniac, and wax afterward.\n7. The smoke tint is produced by annealing\nthe object in a wisp of hay or straw, which is\nset on fire, and the article is burnished so that\nthe oxide formed may penetrate the metal.\nThe smoke of turf may be used instead, waxing\nafterward, and removing the grease by turpen-\ntine, so as to carry off the uneven first layer.\n8. Dark or Berlin Bronze.— Cleanse the metal\nby dipping it first momentarily in nitric acid,\nthen rinsing quickly in running water, and rub-\nbing with sawdust. The bronzing- dip may be\nprepared by dissolving in 1 gal. hot water J4 lb.\neach perchloride of iron and perchloride of\ncopper. The metal should not be allowed to\nremain in this dip any longer than is necessary\nto produce the desired color. Rinse well, dry,\nand polish in warm sawdust or with a rag buff.\n9. In preparing bronze medals for the Mel-\nbourne exhibition, a rich chocolate color was\nobtained by the addition of a little copper\nacetate, mixed with an alkaline sulphide, to the\nordinary colcothar bronzing powder, by which\na film of mixed copper sulphide and oxide,\nsomewhat resembling Chinese bronze, was pro-\nduced.\nBronze, Coloring of. See also Brass.\nBronze Monuments, to Preserve.—\nBrush over at intervals with a mixture of 1\npart of acetic acid and 5 parts of neatsf oot oil.\nBronze Paints. See Paints.\nJapanese Pickles for bronze and Copper.—\nThey are used boiling.\nVerdigris\nSulphate of copper.\nNiter\nCommon salt\nSulphur\nWater\nVinegar\nThat most widely employed is No. I. When\n^oiled in No. III. solution, pure copper will\nturn a brownish red, and shaku-do, which, you\nwill remember, contains a little gold, becomes\npurple. And now you will be able to appreciate\nthe effect of small quantities of metallic im-\npurity as affecting the color resulting from the\naction of the pickle.\nBronzing. See also Brass, Coloring of.\nBronzing is now performed according to the\ncolor desired; for, although the word means a\nbrown color, being taken from the Italian\nhronzino, signifying burnt brown, yet in com-\nmercial language it includes all colors. Success\nin the art of bronzing greatly depends on cir-\ncumstances, such as the temperature of the\nalloy or of the solution, the proportions of the\nmetals used in forming the alloy, and the qual-\nity of the materials. The moment at which to\nwithdraw the goods, the drying of them, and a\nhundred little items of care and manipulation,\nrequire attention which experience alone can\nimpart.— Eng. Mechan.\nAlabaster or Plaster, to Bronze.— I. Prepare\nthe surface by sizing it over once or twice, and\nwhen dry touch the prominent parts of the\nfigure with the bronze No. 1, and the remainder\nwith No. 2. Then soften down the lines of mix-\nture of the two paints with a badger s hair\ntool.\nNo. 1. Grind equal parts of Dutch metal and\nthe following paint together, and thin the mix-\nture with a little oil or turpentine.\nNo. 2. Grind Prussian blue, verdigris and\nocher separately with oil, then mix them to-\ngether in such proportions as will produce a\nbronze green color.\nII. Touch over the prominent parts of the\nfigure with Bessemer s gold paint, or instead\nthereof use gold or Dutch leaf, then cover the\nremainder of the figure as before with the\npaint No. 2.\nAniline Bronzing Fluid.— Take 10 parts of\naniline red and 5 parts of aniline purple and\ndissolve in 100 parts of alcohol at 95°, taking\ncare to help the solution by placing the vessel\nin a sand or water batb. As soon as the solution\nis effected, 5 parts of benzoic acid are added,\nand the whole is boiled from five to ten minutes\nuntil the greenish color of the mixture is trans-\nformed into a fine light colored bronze. This\nbronze is stated to be very brilliant, and to be\napplicable to all metals, as well as to other sub-\nstances. It is easily laid on with a brush, and\ndries promptly.\nBronzing Fluids.— 1. Red aniline 50 gr., vio-\nlet aniline 50 gr., alcohol 2 oz., benzoic acid 50\ngr. Dissolve the aniline in the alcohol, in a\nbottle, by the. aid of water bath, add the ben-\nzoic acid, boil in the water bath five or ten\nminutes, until the greenish color of the liquid\nhas changed to a light brownish bronze. This\nis applied to leather, metal, wood or other sur-\nfaces.— Western Druggist.\n2. Brown Bronze Dip.— Iron scales, 34 lb.; mu-\nriatic acid, lb.; arsenic, y 2 oz.; zinc (solid), 14\noz. Keep the zinc in only while it is in use.\n3. Green Bronze Dip.— Verditer green, 4 oz.;\nsalt, 4 oz.; wine vinegar, 4 qt.; sal ammoniac, 2\noz.; alum, 1 oz.; French berries, 16 oz. The in-\ngredients should be boiled together.\n4. Olive Bronze Dip for Brass.— Muriatic acid,\n1 oz.; nitric acid, V/% oz.; add palladium or tita-\nnium. Dissolve the metal and add 1 gal. pure\nsoft water to each pint of the solution.\n5. Black Bronze for Brass.— Dip the article\nbright in aquafortis; rinse the acid off with\nclean water, and place it in the following mix-\nture until it turns black: Hydrochloric acid,\n12 lb.; sulphate of iron, 1 lb.; and pure white\narsenic, 1 lb. It is then taken out, rinsed in\nclean water, dried in sawdust, polished with\nblacklead, and then lacquered with green lac-\nquer.\n6. Take 1 pt. strong vinegar, 1 oz. sal ammo-\nniac, y^ oz. alum, J4 oz arsenic dissolve them\nin the vinegar, and the compound is fit for use.\nWe know brass founders who have been in the\nhabit of using this for several years, and, where\nthe metal is good, it is seldom found to fail.\n7. For a dipping brown, use to 1 pt. of water\n5 drm. perchloride of iron. The articles must\nbe made perfectly clean and dipped in the hot\nsolution until the required color is obtained\nthen dipped in clean hot water, dried, and lac-\nquered. If only a varnish is required, use clear\nshellac varnish colored with dragon s blood,\ngum, and burnt umber.\n8. Fuchsin, 10 parts; aniline purple, 5 parts\nmethylated spirit, 100 parts. Apply heat, and\nwhen solution has taken place, add benzoic\nacid, 5 parts. Then boil the whole for about\nfive or ten minutes until the greenish color of\nthe mixture has changed to bronze brown.—\nChemicus.\n9. Stroschein, of Berlin, makes this by treat-\ning dammar resin with about V6 of its weight\nof carbonate of potassium, stirring for about\nthree days, and then finely powdering the resin-\nous mass. Next it is scattered in thin layers","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0065.jp2"},"66":{"fulltext":"Bronzing.\n54\nBronzing.\non hurdles exposed to a temperature of about\n60° C, and left for several months. The resin\nis then dissolved in benzine or another distil-\nlate of naphtha under a boiling- point of 150°\nC, after dry ammonia gas has been led through\nthe solvent. The bronze powder remains sus-\npended in this varnish. Articles bronzed with\nit are said to retain for years together the\noriginal fresh metallic luster.\n10. Ormolu Dipping Acid for Sheet Brass.—\nNiter, 6 lb.; sulphuric acid, 1 gal.; nitric acid,\nyfz pt.; muriatic acid, y% pt. Putin the muriatic\nacid last, a little at a time. Stir with a stick.\n11. Parisian Bronze Dip. Sal ammoniac, 1 oz.;\ncommon salt, 1 oz.; ammonia, 2 oz.; dissolved\nin 2 qt. vinegar. Clean the metal, rub with the\nsolution, dry by friction with a brush.\n12. Pale Deep Olive Green Bronze.— Perchlo-\nride of iron, 1% parts; water, 3 parts. Mix,\nand immerse the brass.\n13. Bronzing Small Brass Articles.— 1 part\noxide of iron, 1 part white arsenic, 12 parts\nhydrochloric acid. Clean the brass well to get\nrid of lacquer or grease, and apply with a brush\nuntil the desired color is obtained. Stop the\nprocess by oiling well, when it may be varnished\nor clear lacquered.\n14. Bronze Gold.— 2}4 parts burnish gold, 2\noxide of copper, 1 quicksilver, J4 gold flux.\nHaving dissolved the copper in aquafortis, it is\nagain separated from its solvent and falls to the\nbottom of the vessel by the addition of iron;\nthe precipitate of copper may be increased or\ndiminished at discretion, which makes the\nbronze richer or poorer in color, according\nto the proportion of burnish gold contained in\nthe mixture. It is chiefly used for ornamenting\nthe handles and heads of jars, vases, and so\non, and occasionally intermixed with burnish\ngold.\n15. Green Bronze.— Dissolve 2 oz. of nitrate of\niron and 2 oz. of hyposulphite of soda in 1 pt.\nof water. Immerse the articles in the bronze\ntill of the required tint, as almost any shade\nfrom brown to red can be obtained then well\nwash with water, dry, and brush. One part of\nperchloride of iron and 2 parts of water mixed\ntogether, and the brass immersed in the liquid,\ngives a pale or deep olive gi een, according to\nthe time of immersion. If nitric acid is satu-\nrated with copper, and the brass dipped in the\nliquid and then heated, it assumes a dark green.\nIf well brushed, it may be lacquered with pale\ngold lacquer, or else polished with oil.\n16.\nBronzing Brass by Simple Immersion.\nBy Messrs Bnwen Co., brass founders, etc., London.\na\no\no\nC3\nSh\ndr.\n5\n*i.6\no\nS\no\n2 p\no o\nft\ndr.\n5\nO\n+3\n3 A\n3 -P.\nPh\npt.\nft\n«H\nO\nci H\nS-i CD\nSft\noz.\nO\nia\nKB\np\n02\nU o3\nH\ngT.\nCO\nSh\n«H\nO\no3\na p\noz.\np p\n0-S\naa ft\n•o p\n00\nft\ndr.\n1\nP\n02\nm\n3.2\nft\ndr.\n1\nft\n•H\n5\n■p\nP 02\noi 03\nJ\n-S.S\nP CO\nP 02\n£1\nft\nJh«H\nU\na. 5\nC3 GO\nft£\n2 O\n02\n+3\n%d\np-p\nCO\nO 02\nft=4-\nX\n!2\n0\n03\n•2\n+3\ns\n3\no3\n.2\nM\nO\nColor.\npt.\n1\noz.\nP t.\ndr.\ndr.\ndr.\noz.\nBrown and every shade to black.\nBrown and every shade to black.\n1\n1\n16\n16\nBrown and every shade to red.\nBrown and every shade to red.\nBrownish red.\n1\n1\n3\n4\ni\n1\n1\n1\nBrownish red.\n1\n1\nDark brown.\n1\n30\nl\n6\nYellow to red.\n1\nOrange.\nOlive green.\n2\n5\n1\n1\n2\nSlate.\n1\n20\nBlue.\n1\n2\n1\n10\nSteel gray.\nBlack.\n1\nIn preparation of No. 5, liquid must be brought to a boil and cooled. In using No. 13 the\nheat of the liquid must not be under 180°. No. 6 is alow in action.\nThe action of the others is for the most part immediate.— [English pint, 20 oz.— Ed.]\n17.\nBronzing Fluids for Copper by Simple Immersion.\np\nft\n1\np\n03\na\nH\n03\n3 8\nH\nO\nC\ncm\nS 55\n,p\nO\nO\nO P\nPj£\nCSJ -1—1\nr p\n4\no3\n43\nft\n^3\n2^\nColor.\nWat\nft©\n3ft\nft\n03\nftv,\nw\n5CO\nP\nk c3\nfc\nw\nOQ\ncc\nS\nft\nw\ndrm.\npt.\ndrm.\noz.\ndrm.\ndrm.\ndrm.\nOZ.\ndrm.\nOZ.\n1\n5\n5\nBrown and every shade to black.\nDark brown drab.\n1\n2\n1\n1\n1\n2\ndo.\n1\n2\n1\nBright Red.\nRed and every shade to black.\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\nSteel gray at 180.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0066.jp2"},"67":{"fulltext":"Bronzing.\n55\nBronzing.\n18. Bronze Green Dip.— Wine vinegar, 2 qts.;\nverditer green, 2 oz.; sal ammoniac, 2 oz.; alum,\n1 oz.; salt, 2 oz.; alum, 3^ oz.; French berries, 8 oz.;\nboil the ingredients together.\n19. To Bronze Castings (by Dipping).— Pickle\nthe castings in sulphuric acid and water (1 to 10),\nscour with sand; then dip for an instant in\nsolution of copper sulphate, 3 oz.; sulphuric\nacid, 5 oz.; 1 gal. of water. Kinse in cold water\nand dry in sawdust.\nBronze on Feathers.— Fashion has introduced\ngilded and silvered feathers. It is chiefly goose\nfeathers and wings of pigeons which appear\ncovered with gold and silver. The process is\nvery simple. The feather is dipped in bronze\npowder and rubbed with a piece of wash\nleather. In course of wearing, however, the\nbronze is very easily detached. To prevent\nthis, the feather, before being dipped in the\nbronze powder, is taken through gum water,\npressed nearly dry between cloths, and in its\nslightly adhesive state is treated with bronze\npowder. Partially bronzed feathers and wings\nare produced by covering those parts which are\nto remain plain with pasteboard, and the bronze\npowder is rubbed upon the rest with a feather.\nOf course varied effects may be produced by\ndyeing the feathers with aniline colors, etc.,\nprior to the application of the bronze.— Faerber\nZeitung.\n1. Bronzing Liquids for Gun Barrels. Aqua-\nfortis, }4 oz sweet spirits of niter, oz.; spirit\n•of wine, 1 oz.; sulphate of copper, 2 oz.; water,\n30 oz.; tincture of muriate of iron, 1 oz.; mix.\n2. Sulphate of copper, 1 oz.; sweet spirits of\nniter, 1 oz.; water, 1 pt.; mix. In a few days it\nwill be fit for use.\n3. Sweet spirits of niter, 3 oz.; gum benzoin,\n1% oz.; tincture of muriate of iron, oz.; sul-\nphate of copper, 2 drms.; spirit of wine, oz.;\nmix, and add 2 lb. of soft water.\n4. Tincture of muriate of iron, oz.; spirit\nof nitric ether, y% oz.; sulphate of copper, 2\nscruples; rain water, y% pt.\nThe above are applied with a sponge, after\ncleaning the barrel with lime and water. When\ndry, they are polished with a stiff brush or iron\nscratch brush.\nBronzing Inlaid Work.— A method used for\ndecorating inlaid work is the vise of a bronzing\nliquid, which consists of a fluid bronze com-\nposition formed by combining metallic powder\nof gilding and bronze powder with collodion,\nwhich composition is capable of being applied\nas a bronze liquid to surfaces of wood, iron, or\nany solid material, for the purpose of coating\nthe same for decoration or preservation.\nTo Bronze Steam Pipes Used for Steam Heat-\ning. Use ordinary chrome yellow for painting\nthe pipes; when this is nearly dry, rub on gold\nbronze powder with a piece of fur. Varnish\nwith thin copal varnish or mastic varnish, when\nthoroughly dry.\nIron, to Bronze.— The following is a method\nof giving cast iron the appearance of bronze\nwithout coating it with any metal or alloy\nThe article to be so treated is first cleaned, and\nthen coated with a uniform film of some\nvege table oil; this done, it is exposed in a\nfurnace to the action of a high temperature,\nwhich, however, must not be strong enough to\ncarbonize the oil. In this way the cast iron\nabsorbs oxygen at the moment the oil is de-\ncomposed, and there is formed at the surface a\nthin coat of brown oxide, which adheres very\nstrongly to the metal, and will admit of a high\npolish, giving it quite the appearance of fine\nbronze.\nSize for Bronze Powder for Iron.— To pt.\nof methylated finish add 4- oz. of gum shellac\nand y% oz. gum benzoin. Put the bottle in a\nwarm place and agitate it occasionally. When\nthe gums are dissolved, let it stand in a cool\nplace two or three days to settle; pour off the\nclear portion and reserve for finest work, using\nthe sediment, which by addition of more alcohol\nmay be made workable, when strained for first\ncoat or coarser work. Add the bronze (q. s.) to\nthis, and apply to the clean, smooth, warm iron,\nusing a soft brush. Repeat, after drying, if\nnecessary. Thin with alcohol, if necessary, to\navoid wrinkles and brush marks. Varnish over\nall.\nTo Bronze Iron Castings.— The castings must\nfirst be thoroughly cleansed. Immerse in a solu-\ntion of sulphate of copper, when the castings\nwill acquire a coat of the copper. AY ash in\nwater.\nBronzing Articles Made of Iron Wire.— The fol-\nlowing is commended as the best and cheapest\nprocess: Clean the wire perfectly, and then\nimmerse it in a solution of sulphate of copper\n(blue vitriol) until covered with a coating of\nmetallic copper. Then wash and immerse the\narticles in the following solution Verdigris, 2\noz.; sal ammoniac, 1 oz.; vinegar, 1 pt.; diluted\nwith water until it tastes only slightly metallic,\nthen boiled for a few minutes and filtered. The\narticles are steeped in this liquor at the boiling\npoint, until the desired effect is produced but\ndo not keep them in too long. When taken out,\nwash carefully in hot water and dry.\nBronzing for Leather.— A small amount of so-\ncalled insoluble aniline violet is dissolved in a\nlittle water, and the solution is brushed over\nthe articles; it will dry quickly, and perhaps\nmay have to be repeated. Shoes that are treated\nin this way present a beautiful bronze color.\nBronzing Metals and Ornaments of Copper,\nElectrotypes, etc.—l. Having thoroughly cleaned\nand polished the surface of the specimen, with\na brush apply the common crocus powder, pre-\nviously made into a paste with water. When\ndry, place it in an iron ladle, or on a common\nfire shovel, over a clear fire for about one min-\nute, and when sufficiently cool polish with a\nplate brush. By this process a bronze similar to\nthat on tea urns is produced; the shade depend-\ning upon the duration of the exposure to the\nfire.\n2. By substituting finely powdered plumbago\nfor crocus powder in the above process, a beau-\ntiful deep and permanent bronze appearance is\nproduced.\n3. Rub the metal with a solution or potassium\nsulphide (liver of sulphur, old name), then dry.\nThis produces the appearance of antique bronze\nvery exactly.\n4. Dissolve 2 oz. of verdigris and 1 oz. sal\nammoniac in 1 pt. of vinegar, and dilute the\nmixture with water until it tastes but slightly\nmetallic, when it must be boiled for a few min-\nutes and filtered for use. Copper medals, etc.,\npreviously thoroughly cleaned from grease and\ndirt, are to be steeped in the liquor at the boil-\ning point, until the desired effect is produced.\nCare must be taken not to keep them in the\nsolution too long. When taken out, they should\nbe carefully washed in hot water and well dried.\nGives an antique appearance.\n5. Chinese Method.— Make a paste with 2 oz.\neach of verdigris and vermilion, 5 oz. of alum\nand sal ammoniac, all in fine powder, and vine-\ngar, q. s.; then spread it over the surface of the\ncopper, previously well cleaned and brightened\nuniformly, warm the article by the fire, and\nafterward well wash and dry it, when, if the\ntint be not deep enough, the process may be re-\npeated. The addition of a little blue -vitriol\ninclines the color to a chestnut brown and a\nlittle borax to a yellowish brown. Much em-\nployed by the Chinese for copper tea urns.\n6. Dissolve 1 oz. of sal ammoniac, 3 oz. cream\nof tartar, and 6 oz. of common salt in 1 pt. of\nhot water; then add 2 oz. of nitrate of copper,\ndissolved in ]4 pt. of water; mix well, and apply\nit repeatedly to the article, placed in a damp\nsituation, by means of a brush moistened there-\nwith. Effect very antique.\n7. Potassium binoxalate J4 oz.; sal ammoniac,\nloz.; distilled vinegar, 2^ pt.; dissolve. As last.\nMildew, Bronze Imitation of.— Dissolve equal\nweights of nitrate of iron and hyposulphite\nof soda in 8 parts of water; immerse the","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0067.jp2"},"68":{"fulltext":"Bronzing.\n56\nBronzing:.\narticles in this until of the right tint, then well\nWash with water, dry, and brush; 1 part chloride\nof iron and 2 parts water imparts to brass a fine\nantique green. Brush well and lacquer with\npale gold or lacquer, polish with oil.\nPaper, to Bronze.— Gum is substituted for\ndrying oil in bronzing paper. When it is dry,\nthe paper is submitted to the action of the\nburnisher, which imparts great brilliancy to\nit.\nBronzing Plaster Cast.— I. Coat the figure with\nisinglass size until the surface continues in a\nmoist state, and will absorb no more then\ntouch it over lightly and sparingly with gold\nsize, and put it away in a clean dry place for\nforty-eight hours. Touch the figure all over\nwith bronze powder, and after the lapse of\ntwenty-four hours, brush off all the loose\npowder, and particularly from the projecting\nparts cf the figure.\n2. The following is given as a process used in\nFrance for this purpose. Linseed oil soap is\nmade by saponifying the oil with caustic soda\nand precipitating the soap with salt. It is\nseparated, dissolved in rain water, and a mix-\nture in solution of 4 parts blue vitriol and 1\npart copperas is added as long as a precipitate\nforms. This is filtered out, washed and dried,\nand 8M oz. are applied with 1 lb. quick-drying\nvarnish and 5J4 oz. white wax. This is applied\nto the surface previously heated, and is baked\nin if necessary. The high parts are touched up\nwith a bronze powder. As a simpler process,\nshellac the bust and then gild it with bronze\npowder and varnish. The varnish is sold with\nthe powder. See also No. 23 below.\nBronze Powder and Bronzing.— Bronze pow-\nder is finely pulverized metal or powder hav-\ning a metallic base, applied to the surface of\nvai-ious articles for the purpose of imparting a\nmetallic color or luster.\n1. Gold powder for bronzing is made by\ngrinding leaf gold with honey, dissolving the\nmixture to obtain the gold by deposition, the\nhoney water being decanted. German gold is\na yellow alloy leaf similarly treated. Silver\nbronze can be made in the same way, using\nsilver leaf, or dissolve silver in nitric acid\nand precipitate by means of polished copper,\nsheet or wire.\n2. Mosaic gold is prepared by incorporating\nand grinding tin, 16 flower of sulphur,\n7 mercury, 8 and sal ammoniac, 8 then sub-\nliming the amalgam. A flaky gold colored\npowder remains in the matrass.\n3. Copper powder is obtained by saturating\nnitrous acid with coppei\\ and then precipitat-\ning the copper by exposing iron bars in the\nsolution.\n4. Bisulphide of tin has a golden luster, flaky\ntexture, and is used for ornamental work, such\nas paper hangings, and as a substitute for gold\nleaf.\n5. Dutch foil, reduced to a powder by grind-\ning, is also used, and powdered plumbago gives\nan iron-colored shade.\n6. Another kind is made from verdigris, 8\nputty powder, 4 borax, 2 niter, 2 bichloride\nof mercury, J4 grind into a paste with oil and\nfuse them together.\n7. Another (red): sulph. copper, 100; carb.\nsoda, 60 mix and incorporate by heat; cool,\npowder, and add copper filings, 15 mix keep\nat a white heat for twenty minutes cool,\npowder, wash, and dry.\n8. Bronzing is the process of giving a bronze-\nlike or antique metallic appearance to the sur-\nface of metals. The processes vary they may\nbe classed as coating with a metal alloy, coat-\ning with a metal in paste, solution, or vapor,\ncorrosion, coating with a gum, applying bronze\npowder, and painting. The modes vary with\nthe material. The methods as to copper (some\nof them applicable to brass) are as follows The\nsurface is cleaned, polished, and a paste of cro-\ncus powder and water applied to it. Apply\nheat to develop the color required.\n9. Plumbago applied in the same manner.\nBy applying mixtures of plumbago and cro-\ncus different shades are obtained.\n10. The copper is exposed at a high heat to\nthe fumes of zinc.\n11. The copper vessel is filled with water\nacidulated with hydrochloric acid, an amal-\ngam of zinc and cream of tartar being added.\nBoil for a while. The two latter processes are\nmore properly brassing.\n12. Corrosion processes are as follows: Wash\nthe cleaned copper with a dilute solution of\nsulphuret of potassium, or hydrosulphuret of\nammonia is applied with a brush.\n13. Apply a solution of verdigris, 2 sal am-\nmoniac 1 vinegar, 16.\n14. Or, verdigris, 2 vermilion, 2 alum, 5\nsal ammoniac, 5 vinegar sufficient to form a\nthick paste. Blue vitriol inclines to dark\nbrown, borax to yellow brown.\n15. Or, sal ammoniac, 1; cream tartar, 3;\ncommon salt, 3; hot water, 16; dissolve, and\nadd nitrate of copper, 3 dissolved in water, 8\napply repeatedly with a brush.\n16. Or, potassium binoxalate, 1 sal ammon-\niac, 3 distilled vinegar, 32 apply as above.\n17. For iron Clean the metal, and wash it or\nimmerse it in a solution of sulphate of copper,\nor verdigris, when it will acquire a coating of\ncopper.\n18. The polished metal— a gun barrel, for in-\nstance—may be dipped in a solution of chloride\nof antimony and sulphate of copper. This is\nbrowning.\n19. The iron is cleaned,polished, and lacquered.\nThe lacquer consists of shellac in alcohol, with\nor without the addition of saffron, annatto,\naloes, or other coloring substances.\n20. The iron is cleaned, polished, coated with\nlinseed oil, and heated to develop the tint re-\nquired,\n21. Brown bronze dip, for coating hat hooks\nand similar small hardware articles, is made of\niron scales, 1 lb.; arsenic, 1 oz.; muriatic acid,\n1 lb.; zinc, solid, 10 oz. The zinc should be kept\nin only when the bath is used. The castings\nmust be perfectly free from sand and grase.\n22. For tin: Clean the castings, and wash them\nwith a mixture of 1 part each of sulphate of\ncopper and sulphate of iron in 20 parts of water;\ndry and wash again with a solution of verdi-\ngris, 5 parts; in distilled vinegar, 11 parts.\nWhen dry, polish with colcothar.\nPlaster of Paris statuettes, models, etc., are\nbronzed in the following manner\n23. Prepare a soap from linseed oil boiled with\ncaustic soda lye, to which add a solution of\ncommon salt, and concentrate it by boiling till\nit becomes somewhat granular upon the surface;\nit is then strained through a linen cloth, and\nwhat passes through is diluted with boiling\nwater, and again filtered. Dissolve 4 parts blue\nvitriol and 1 part copperas separately in hot\nwater, and add this solution to the solution of\nsoap as long- as it occasions any precipitate.\nThis flocculent precipitate is a combination of\nthe oxides of copper and iron with the margaric\nacid of the soap, the former giving a green and\nthe latter a reddish brown color, the combi-\nnation of the two resembling that greenish rust\nwhich is characteristic of ancient bronzes.\nWhen the precipitate is completely separated, a\nfresh portion of the vitriol solution is to be\npoured upon it in a copper pan, and boiled in\norder to wash it. After some time the liquid is\npoured off and the soap washed with warm and\nafterward with cold water, pressed in a linen\nbag, drained, and dried, when it is ready for use\nin the following manner 3 lb. of pure linseed\noil are boiled with 12 lb. of finely powdered\nlitharge, and the mixture is strained through a\ncanvas cloth and permitted to stand in a warm\nplace until it becomes clear. 15 oz. of this, 12\noz. of the above described soap, and 5 oz. of fine\nwhite wax are melted together at a gentle heat\nin a porcelain basin by means of a water bath.\nThe mixture must be kept some time in a","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0068.jp2"},"69":{"fulltext":"Broiizinj\n57\nBronzing.\nmolten state, to expel any moisture which it\nmay contain. It is then applied by means of a\npaint brush to the surface of the gypsum, which\nis heated to the temperature of about 200° F.\nAfter exposure to air for a few days, the sur-\nface is rubbed with cotton wool or a flne rag,\nand variegated with a few streaks of metal\npowder or shell gold. Small objects may be\ndipped in the melted mixture and then exposed\nto the heat of the fire until thoroughly pene-\ntrated and evenly coated with it.\n24. Silver Bronze Powder.— Melt together 1\noz. each of bismuth and tin, then add 1 oz.\nquicksilver, cool and powder.\n25. Gold Bronze Powder.— 1. Pure gold bronze\npowder may be made as follows G rind leaf\ngold with pure honey until the leaves are\nbroken up and minutely divided. Remove this\nmixture from the stone by a spatula and stir\nup in a basin of water; the water will melt the\nhoney and set the gold free. Leave the basin\nundisturbed until the gold subsides. Pour off\nthe water and add fresh instead, until the\nhoney is entirely washed away, after which col-\nlect the gold on filtering pans and dry for use.\n2. A cheaper sort may be made thus Melt 1 lb.\nof tin in a crucible and pour it #i y% lb. of\npure mercury when this is solid grind it into\npowder with 7 oz. of flowers of sulphur and\n14 lb. of sal ammoniac.\n26. Bronze Powders.— Bright yellow, copper\n83 parts, zinc 17 parts; orange, copper 90 to 95\nparts, zinc 5 to 10 parts; copper red, copper 97 to\n99 parts, zinc 1 to 3 parts.\n27. Bronze, Method of Applying the.— Go over\nthe part you intend to bronze with gold size\nor varnish. When it is sufficiently dry— that is,\nwhen it does not adhere to the finger, but feels\nclammy— dip a piece of cotton, rolled into a\nhard ball, in your bronze powder, and dab it on\nthe place to be bronzed.\n28. Bronze powder may be mixed into a paint\nby using japan drier with a small percentage\nof boiled linseed oil. Both should be fresh.\nTo Bronze Rifles.— Take the breeches out, and\nstop orifices at each end; rub barrels over with\nhot lime to take off all grease, then clean them\ncarefully; do not touch the barrels with your\nhands. Get from a chemist 60 drops sweet\nspirit of niter, 60 drops tincture of iron, 16 grns.\nsublimate of mercury, 16 grns. green copper-\nas, 16 grns. blue vitriol, add 4 teaspoonfuls\nwater, then with a pad of cotton wool wet the\nbarrels and leave them until well rusted, then\npolish with steel brush— to be obtained from a\ngunmaker repeat ten times, then wash with\nboiling water, and oil. Be careful with stain, as\nit is a deadly poison.\nTo Bronze Polished Steel.— Methylated spirits,\nl^pt.; gum shellac, 6 oz.; gum benzoin, oz.\nSet the bottle in a warm place, shake occasion-\nally. When dissolved decant the clear liquid for\nfine work, strain the dregs through muslin.\nMix with the varnish in quantities to suit 6 oz,\npowdered bronze green, varying the color with\nyellow ocher and lampblack as desired. Apply\nthe varnish to the articles after cleaning and\nwarming them; give them two coats.\nBronzing, Surface.— This term is applied to\nthe process of imparting to the surfaces of fig-\nures of wood, plaster of Paris, etc., a metallic\nappearance. This is done by first giving them\na coat of oil or size varnish, and when this\nis nearly dry applying with a dabber of cotton\nor a camel hair pencil any of the metallic\nbronze powders or the powder may be placed\nin a little bag of muslin, and dusted over the\nsurface, and afterward finished off with a wad\nof linen. The surface must be afterward var-\nnished.\nPayer is bronzed by mixing the powders up\nwvtn a little gum and water, and afterward\nburnishing.\nIron Castings may be bronzed by thorough\ncleaning and subsequent immersion in a solu-\ntion of sulphate of copper, when they acquire\na coat of the latter metal. They must be then\nwashed in water.\nBronzing Tin Castings.— When clean, wash\nthem with a mixture of 1 part each sulphate of\niron and sulphate of copper, in 20 parts water\ndry, and again wash with distilled vinegar ll\nparts, verdigris 4 parts. When dry, polish with\ncolcothar. Druggists Circular.\nBed Copper Bronze on White Sheet Tin and\nTinned Articles.— Dissolve 18 drm. copper sul-\nphate in rain water until this is saturated add\n80 to 160 drops sulphuric acid. Cleanse the tin\nwith onion juice. Then brush with the fluid.\nWhen dry, rub with chalk and rinse.\nBronzing Wood. 1. The wood is first covered\nwith a uniform coating of glue, or of drying-\noil, and when nearly dry the bronze powder,\ncontained in a small bag, is dusted over it. The\nsurface of the objects is afterward rubbed with\na piece of moist rag. Or the bronze powder\nmay be previously mixed with the drying oil,\nand applied with a brush.\n2. First coat the clean wood with a mixture\nof size and lamp black then apply 2 coats of\nthe green-colored sizing in the last recipe, and\nlastly with bronze powder, such as powdered\nDutch foil, mosaic gold, etc., laid on with a\nbrush. Finish with a thin solution of Castile\nsoap when dry rub it with a soft woolen cloth.\nZinc, to Bronze.— First give a coat of brass\n(see Electro-Metallurgy). Then wet with a\ncloth dipped in copper protochloride dissolved\nin hydrochloric acid. When dry, brush with a\nmixture of equal parts iron peroxide and plum-\nbago mixed up with a little essence of turpen-\ntine. Varnish with thin copal varnish.\nBronzing for Zinc,\nby Simple Immersion.\na\no\nu\nH\ni\nu\no\n6\n-d\n3.3\n8l\nO\na\nM\np\nh\no\n-j5\no\na p*\nIs\nCm\no\nS-i\n+3\ncS ft\nA\nO\nP\no\nA\nU\nA\nw\nA\nft\np\ngo\nM\nO P\no o\nc3\nu\nA ft\nftO\nP^\nGO\no\nJh\n-a\nh!\neg\nft*\no\nOrtJ\nfto\nK\n2 p\nCSHl\na\n53\ne*P\nHi\nP t.\ndr.\ndr.\ndr.\ndr.\noz.\nOZ.\ndr.\ndr.\ni\n5\nBlack.\ni\n1\n1\nBlack.\ni\n1\nDark gray.\nDark gray.\nDark gray.\nGreen gray.\nRed Boil\n2\n1\n1\nX\n2\n1\nX\n1\n4\n8\n4\nCopper color. Plates so cAz-\nCopper color, with agitation.\nPurple Boil.\n1\n8\nX\nMade to the consistency of cream.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0069.jp2"},"70":{"fulltext":"Browning,\n58\nBuj -s„\nBrowning of Metals.— Browning of Cop-\nper.— Scour brightly with fine glass paper, heat\nover a clear fire, then brush over with a solu-\ntion prepared as follows: Copper acetate (cryst.),\n5 ammonium chloride, 7 acetic acid, diluted,\n3 i water distilled, 85 Then rub with 1 part\nof wax cut in 4 parts of turpentine.\nBrowning Guns. The following recipe for\nbrowning is from the IT. S. Ordnance Manual\nSpirits of wine, V oz.; tincture of iron, iy 2 oz.;\ncorrosive sublimate, 1% oz.; sweet spirits of niter,\nlV£oz.; blue vitriol, 1 oz.; nitric acid, oz. Mix\nand dissolve in 1 qt. of warm water and keep in\na glass jar. Clean the barrel well with caustic\nsoda water to remove grease or oil. Then clean\nthe surface of all stains and marks by emery\npaper or cloth, so as to produce an even bright\nsurface for the acid to act upon, and one with-\nout finger marks. Stop the bore and vent with\nwooden plugs. Then apply the mixture to\nevery part with a sponge or rag, and expose to\nthe air for twenty-four hours, when the loose\nrust should be rubbed off with a steel scratch\nbrush. Use the mixture and the scratch brush\ntwice, and more if necessary, and finally wash\nin boiling water, dry quickly, and wipe with\nlinseed oil or varnish with shellac.\nBrowning for Twist Gun Barrels.— Black brim-\nstone, }^oz.; tincture of steel, or the unmedi-\ncated tincture of iron, 1J4 oz.; blue vitriol 1 oz.;\ncorrosive sublimate, }4 oz.; copperas, *4 oz.;\nnitric acid, 2 drm.; spirits of niter, V/% oz. Add 3\nparts of rain water, and bottle for use. This\nmixture causes the twist of the barrel to be\nvisible after application.\nBrowning of Gun Barrels, etc.— Wet a piece of\nrag with chloride of antimony, dip it into olive\noil, and rub the bax^rel over. In 48 hours it will\nbe covered with a fine coat of rust. Then rub\nthe barrel with a fine steel scratch brush, and\nwipe with a rag dipped in boiled linseed oil.\nIron and Steel- 1. Dissolve in 4 parts of water,\n2 parts of crystallized iron chloride, 2 parts of\nantimony chloride, and 1 part of gallic acid, and\napply the solution with a sponge or cloth to the\narticle aud dry it in the air. Repeat this any\nnumber of times, according to the depth of\ncolor which it is desired to produce. Wasn with\nwater, and dry, and finally rub the articles over\nwith boiled linseed oil. The metal thus\nreceives a brown tint, and resists moisture.\nThe antimony chloride should be as little acid\nas possible.\n2. A process having this end in view has been\nrecently patented in Germany by Mr. A. De\nMeritens. The goods to be browned form the\nanode of the bath, which consists of ordinary\nor distilled water. The cathode is formed by\nthe vessel which contains the water, if it is\nmade of iron; otherwise a plate of iron, cop-\nper, or carbon is placed in the bath. The water\nis kept at from 160° F. to 180° F„ and the ten-\nsion of the current must be sufficiently great\nto decompose the water. The oxygen which\nthus is given off at the anode forms in an hour\nor two a layer of the black oxide of iron (a\ncombination of ferrous and ferric oxide),\nwhich is said to polish up very well. Steel is\nsaid to give the best results in the case of cast\nand wrought iron, the oxide of iron formed\nseparates as a powder and it is necessary to\nuse distilled water in order to obtain a layer\nwhich will adhere to the goods.\nBrown Pigments, See Pigments.\nBruises. A bruise is the discoloration\ncaused by the extravasation of blood from rup-\ntured vessels, and is due either to a blow or vio-\nlent compression. Apply ice or some cold object\nas soon as possible after the injury. Pressure\nwill also be of service. This method of treat-\nment should be continued for at least two hours.\nThe appearance of a bruise may be somewhat\ndisguised by first covering it with a paste com-\npound of prepared chalk 1 part, glycerine 1 part.\nThis should be gently worked into the part and\nthe excess wiped off. Over it 1 layer of flexible\ncollodion should be spread by means of a brush,,\nThis will make the part of a white color.\nBruises in Furniture, to Bemove.—\nTo take out bruises in furniture wet the part\nwith warm water, double a piece of brown paper\nfive or six times, soak it and lay it on the place\napply on that a hot flatiron till the moisture is\nevaporated. If the bruise be not gone, repeat\nthe process. After two or three applications,\nthe dent or bruise will be raised level with the\nsurface. If the bruise be small, merely soak it\nwith warm water, and apply a red hot poker\nvery near the surface; keep it continually wet,\nand in a few minutes the bruise will disappear.\nBrunswick Black. See Varnishes.\nBrushes, to Soften.— Steep the brushes\nfor twenty-four hours in good benzole, and then\nif necessary purify by washing them with soap\nand warm water.\nBubbles, Soap. See Soap Bubbles.\nBuff lieather.— Buff leather is made from\nthe skins of various animals, as the buffalo, ox,\netc. It is used for polishing, making belts,\netc.\nBufF Wheels, to Make,— Turn up the\nwooden disk to form the wheel on the mandrel\non which it is to run. Cover the periphery of\nthe wheel with good glue, prepared as for glu-\ning wood, stretch the leather around and confine\nit with shoe pegs driven in about 2 in. apart.\nWhen dry turn off true with a sharp chisel.\nGive the leather a coat of glue and roll it in the\nemery, so as to make it retain it by being im-\nbedded in the glue. Let the wheel dry until the\nglue is hard and it is ready for use.\nBugs, Use of Paris Green in Exter-\nminating. In using Paris green to extermin-\nate the potato bugs, the poison should be mixed\nwith the cheapest grade of flour, 1 lb. of green\nto 10 lb. of flour. A good way of applying it to\nthe plants is to take an old 2 qt. tin fruit can,\nmelt off the top, and put in a wooden head in\nwhich insert a broom handle. Bore a hole in the\nhead also to pour the powder in, and then punch\nthe bottom full of holes about the size of No. 6\nshot. Walk alongside the rows, when the vines\nare wet with dew or rain, and make one shoot\nat each hill.\nBugs, Bed, to Destroy.— 1. Rub the joints\nof the bedstead with equal parts spirits of tur-\npentine and kerosene oil, and where there are\nmany, the cracks in the surbase of the room.\nFilling up all the cracks with hard soap is a good\nremedy.\n2. Take everything out of the infested room,\nplug up all the windows tightly, close all chim-\nneys, and empty about 1 oz. of powdered sul-\nphur on a pan of hot coals, placed in the mid-\ndle of the floor. Shut the doors and cover all\ncracks let the sulphur burn as long as it will.\nWhere the room is large, it is a good plan to fas-\nten a bit of tin tube to the bottom of the pan,\nand to this connect enough small rubber pipe\nto lead out of the nearest door. By blowing\ninto the end of the pipe Avith the bellows, the\nsulphur will be caused to burn more quickly by\nthe draught created, and to give a denser smoke.\nAfter the sulphur has burned out, paint all the\ncracks in the floor and around the mop board\nwith a strong solution of corrosive sublimate,\nand treat the furniture to the same before re-\nplacing it. We have seen a room frightfully\ninfested completely freed by this plan.\n3. Mixtures such as equal parts of turpentine\nand kerosene oil are used^ filling up the cracks\nwith hard soap is an excellent remedy. Benzine\nand gasoline will kill bedbugs as fast as they\ncan reach them. A weak solution of zinc chlor-\ni ide is also said to be an effectual banisher of\nthese pests.\n4. When they have made a lodgment in the\nwall, fill all the apertures with a mixture of\nsoft soap and Scotch snuff. Take the bedstead\nto pieces, and treat that in the same way.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0070.jp2"},"71":{"fulltext":"Bugs.\n59\nBun-stones.\n5. A strong decoction of red pepper applied to\nbedsteads will either kill the bugs or drive them\naway.\n6. Put the bedstead into a close room and set\nfire to the following composition, placed in an\niron pot upon the hearth, having previously\nclosed up the chimney, then shut the door let\nthem remain a day: Sulphur, lOparts; saltpeter,\npowdered, 1 part. Mix. Be sure to open the\ndoor of the room five or six hours before you\nventure to go into it a second time.\n7. Rub the bedsteads well with lamp oil this\nalone is good, but to make it more effectual,\nget ten cents worth of quicksilver and add to\nit. Put it into all the cracks around the bed,\nand they will soon disappear. The bedsteads\nshould first be scalded and wiped diy; then put\non with a feather.\n8 Corrosive sublimate, 1 oz.; muriatic acid, 2\noz.; water, 4 oz.; dissolve, then add turpentine,\n1 pt.; decoction of tobacco, 1 pt. Mix. For the\ndecoction of tobacco boil 2 oz. of tobacco in 1\npt. of water. The mixture must be applied\nwith a paint brush. This wash is a deadly\npoison.\n9. Rub the bedsteads in the joints with equal\nparts of spirits of turpentine and kerosene oil,\nand the cracks of the surbase in rooms where\nthere are many. Pilling up all the cracks with\nhard soap is an excellent remedy. March and\nApril are the months when bedsteads snould be\nexamined to kill all the eggs.\n10. Mix together 2 oz. of camphor, 4 oz. spirits\nof turpentine, 1 oz. corrosive sublimate, and 1\npt. alcohol.\n11. Distilled vinegar, or diluted wood vinegar,\n1 pt.; camphor, J^oz.; dissolve.\n12. White arsenic, 2 oz.; lard, 13 oz.; corrosive\nsublimate, y± oz.; Venetian red, 34 oz. (Deadly\npoison.)\n13. Strong mercurial ointment, 1 oz.; soft\nsoap, 1 oz.; oil of turpentine, 1 pt.\n14. Gasoline and coal oil are both excellent\nadjuncts, with cleanliness, in ridding a bed or\nhouse of these pests.\n15. Benzine or gasoline will kill these pests as\nfast as they can be reached. By using a spring\nbottom oiler the fluid can be forced into all the\ncracks and crevices. As the fluid is inflammable,\ncontact with fire must be avoided. The room\nshould be well aired.\nBug Bestroyer.— Tincture of tobacco 200\nparts, boric acid 6 parts, carbolic acid 6 parts,\nsalicylic acid 12 parts, oil of Indian balm 1 part.\nBug Poison.— Corrosive sublimate and\nmuriatic acid, of each 1 oz., water 4 oz. Dis-\nsolve, then add turpentine and decoction of to-\nbacco, of each of a pt.; mix. Use with\ncaution.\nBugs in Hospitals.— The best remedy for\nbugs in hospitals is a bug trap, made by boring\na series of holes in a piece of wood with a gim-\nlet, and placing this under the mattress of each\ncot. The piece of wood is to be placed period-\nically into a basin of boiling water. This is an\nIndian hospital plan.\nBuilding Materials, Weieht of.— Sand\nweighs about 30 cwt. per cubic yard; gravel, the\nsame; mud, 25 cwt.; marl, 26 cwt.; clay, 31 cwt.;\nsandstone, 39 cwt. shale, 40 cwt. quartz, 41\ncwt.; granite, 42 cwt. trap, the same; slate, 43\ncwt.\nBuilding Stones, Artificial. See Ce-\nments.\nBullet Metal. See Alloys,\nBunions. See also Corns.— 1. For bun-\nions and corns Cannabis indica and glycerine,\nequal parts, painted on the bunion or corn and\nbound around with Canton flannel, adding a\nfew drops of the liquid to the flannel where it\ncomes in contact with the affected parts, will\nsoon restore to health.\n2. An inflamed bunion should be poulticed,\nand larger shoes worn. Iodine, 12 gr., lard or\nspermaceti ointment, J^ oz., make a capital\nointment for bunions. It should be rubbed on\ngently two or three times a day.\nBurnettizing. See Wood, Preserva-\ntion of.\nBurnishing Ink. See Inks.\nBurnishing Powder, Belgian.— Fine\nchalk, J4 lb.; Pipe clay, V/% oz.; white lead, 1 oz.;\nmagnesia (carbonate) oz.; jewelers 1 rouge,\noz.\nBurnishing Prints. See Photogra-\nphy.\nBurns, Treatment of.— The New York\nMedical Record states that at the Roosevelt\nHospital white lead paint has been found, after\ntrying almost every plan of treatment hitherto\nproposed, to be the best and cleanest applica-\ntion. Mix as for painting, but considerably\nthicker, and apply with a brush. A very neat and\nsatisfactory dressing in superficial burns con-\nsists in coating the surface with mucilage and\nthen covering it with powdered lycopodium.\n2. Burns.— Service of Dr. George F. Shrady,\nat St. Francis Hospital, New York.— A num-\nber of cases of more or less severe burns have\nbeen treated very successfully by an applica-\ntion of a gum dressing which consists of a paste\ncomposed of gum acacia, 3 oz.; gum tragacanth,\n1 oz.; carbolized water (1-60), 1 pt.; and molasses,\n2 oz. It is applied to the burned surface with\na broad flat camel s hair brush immediately on\nadmission to the hospital, and dries in the course\nof an hour or two. The dressing is then re-\nnewed at suitable intervals, until a sound\nand nnyielding scab is formed. Generally four\napplications are necessary for this purpose.\nThe molasses appears to prevent the contrac-\ntion of the covering, while the carbolized water\ndestroys any odor.\n3. Injuries from A cids.— Strong acids applied\nto the skin cause intense pain and destruction\nof the tissues with which the liquids come into\ncontact, the extent of the injury varying, of\ncourse, with the amount of acid applied. When\nthe injury has been caused by sulphuric, nitric,\nor hydrochloric acid, apply dilute ammonia,\nchalk, carbonate of magnesia, or the plaster\nfrom the ceiling stirred in water. After an\nhour or so apply carron oil (olive oil and lime\nwater in equal parts) on lint. For carbolic acid\nApply olive oil.\n4. Injuries from Caustic Alkalies, as strong\nammonia and potash. Apply a dilute acid, as\nvinegar; subsequently use: Olive oil, 1 part; car-\nbonate of bismuth, 2 parts; spermaceti, 1 part;\nwhite wax, 1 part.\n5. Simple Burns and Scalds.— If there are ves-\nicles they should be pricked with a needle. The\npart should then be covered with carron oil\n(equal parts of olive oil and lime water), and\nlint soaked in the same should be applied over\nit. Externally to the lint a thick layer of cot-\nton wool should be placed. After two days\nthe carron oil may be discontinued, and\nthe following substituted Olive oil, 1 part;\ncarbonate of bismuth, 1 part; or, starch pow-\nder, 1 part powdered chalk, 1 part spermaceti, 2\nparts; olive oil, 1 part. If carron oil (equal parts\nof olive oil and lime water) is not at hand, then\nolive oil, with equal parts of carbonate of\nsoda, or powdered chalk, or powdered starch or\nflour, will be of service. Or, again, if olive oil\nis not at hand, the carbonate of soda may be\ndissolved in tepid water, and the part should be\nfreely bathed with this, and then it should be\nthickly covered with a powder of the same.\nSo also if the soda is not within reach, simple\nchalk, starch, or flour may be used as a powder.\nNever apply cold to a burn or scald.\nBurnt Cork. See Rouges and Face\nPaints.\nBurrstones, to Fill Holes in.— Use\nmelted alum mixed with burrstone pulverized\nto the size of grains of sand.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0071.jp2"},"72":{"fulltext":"Butter.\n60\nButter.\nButter, to Color.— 1. Use a little annatto\nif pure it is not injurious.\n2. The coloring- matters commonly employed\narc annatto and turmeric, or extracts of these\nbut there are also a number of butter-coloring\ncompounds or mixtures sold for this purpose.\nFor some of these it is claimed that they will\nnot only impart the desired color to butter, but\nwill keep it sAveet and fresh for an indefinite\ntime. The following are a few of these col-\noring compounds in use at present. Rorick s\ncompound is prepared as follows The materials\nfor 1,000 lb. of butter are Lard, butter, or olive\noil, 6 lb.; annatto, 6 oz.; turmeric, 1 oz.; salt, 10\noz.; niter, |oz.; bromochloralum, 3J^ oz.; water,\nq. s. The lard, butter, or oil is put into a pan\nand heated in a water bath. The annatto and\nturmeric are then stirred into a thin paste with\nwater, and this is gradually added to the fatty\nor oily matters kept at a temperature of about\n110° F. The salt and niter are next stirred in,\nand the mixture heated to boiling. The heat-\ning is continued for from twelve to twenty-four\nhours, or until the color of the mixture be-\ncomes dark enough. The bromochloralum is\nthen introduced, and the mass is agitated until\ncold, when it is put up in sealed cans.\n3. Bogart s preparation is prepared as follows:\nThe materials employed are: Annattoine, 5 oz.;\nturmeric (pulverized), 6 oz.; saffron, 1 oz.; lard\noil, 1 pt.; butter, 5 lb. The butter is first melted\nin a pan over the water bath and strained\nthrough a fine linen cloth. The saffron is made\ninto a Yq pt. tincture, and, together with the\nturmeric and annattoine, is gradually stirred\ninto the hot butter and oil and boiled and\nstirred for about fifteen minutes. It is then\nstrained through a cloth as before and stirred\nuntil cool.\n4. Dake s butter coloring is prepared by heat-\ning a quantity of fresh butter lor some time\nwith annatto, by which means the coloring mat-\nter of the butter is extracted, and straining the\ncolored oil and stirring it until cold.\nButter, to make,— Preparation of Milk,\nfor Creameries.— 1. See that the cows have an\nabundant supply of good, wholesome feed. Sup-\nplement the grass with bran or grain. Corn and\npease make firm butter. If grass be dry or\nscarce, furnish green fodder. The quality of\nthe feed determines to some extent the quality\nof the fat globules in the milk. Fine butter is\nmostly composed of these. Green fodder is fed\nwith better effect on the quality of the butter\nafter being wilted for a day or two.\n2. See that the cows have a liberal supply of\npure cold water. As well might a cook expect\nto make good, profitable porridge out of musty\noatmeal and stagnant water as to get pure,\nsweet-flavored, wholesome milk out of musty\nfeed and foul drink consumed by a cow.\n3. See that the cows have access to salt every\nday. They know best when to help them-\nselves.\n4. Let the cows be saved from annoyance and\nworry- Any harsh treatment that excites a\ncow lessens the quantity and injures the quality\nof her yield.\n5. Where practicable let the cows be milked\nregularly as to time and by the same person.\n6. The udders should be well brushed and then\nrubbed with a coarse towel before milking.\n7. All milk should be carefully strained im-\nmediately after the milking is completed.\n8. Thorough airing of the milk for a few min-\nutes by dipping, pouring or stirring will im-\nprove the flavor of the butter.\n9. When set for the rising of the cream, milk\nshould be at a temperature above 90° Fahr.\n10. When deep setting pails are used, the\nwater in the tank should be kept below or as\nnear 45° Fahr. as possible.\n11. The tank should be shaded from the sun.\n12. When a flowing spring is not available, the\ncooling power of the fresh water may be used\nmore economically if it be carried to the bottom\nof the tank and the warm water be caused to\nrun off from the top If water be scarce, the\noverflow may be carried into a watering trough\nfor the stock of the farm.\n13. Milk cans should be washed in cold or\ntepid water first, and then rinsed in boiling\nwater before they are exposed to be aired. The\naddition of a little soda and borax to the hot\nwater will increase its cleansing properties.\n14. Qualities of Cream.— Since managers of\ncreameries have adopted the plan of paying for\ncream according to its butter-making qualities,\nsome dissatisfaction has been caused among the\nEatrons by the differences which comparisons\nave made evident. In most cases the trouble\narises from an erroneous idea that the richest\ncream is the best for butter making and the\nmost profitable to the patron. It is not the\npatron who supplies the cream which yields\nthe greatest number of ounces of butter per\ninch who always obtains the largest returns\nfrom the milk which has been set. Milk which\nhas been set in deep pails at a high tempera-\nture, and has not been cooled below 60° F., will\nyield a cream very rich in butter-making qua-\nlity; but there will be a smaller quantity of\ncream obtained from the milk, and a less quan-\ntity of butter, than where the milk is cooled as\nlow as 45° F. The longer the time cream stands\non milk after practically all of it has come to\ntop, the less space will it occupy. As it shrinks\nin bulk it becomes richer per inch, but the total\nquantity of cream from the milk will not yield\nany more butter than it would have made be-\nfore it became compact by long standing. (A\ncreamery inch of cream is equal to 113 cubic\ninches or to 1 inch in depth of a cylindrical\nvessel 12 inches in diameter.) When the milk is\nskimmed every twelve hours the cream will not\nyield as many ounces of butter per inch as when\nit has been set for twenty-four hours or longer,\nbut the extra quantity of cream that maybe\nobtained by twelve hours setting in ice water\nwill permit as much butter to be made from\nthe milk as by setting it for a longer period.\n15. Skimming should not be delayed longer\nthan twenty-four hours after the milk is set.\nCream should be removed from the milk before\nit is sour. Its value to a creamery for butter\nmaking depends not alone upon its richness in\nbutter fat purity, sweetness, and fine flavor\nare qualities it should possess.\n16. Tlie Oil Test Churn— The oil test churn is\nused to determine the quantity of churnable\nfat in each supply of every patron s cream.\nThe requirements for its successful use are\na. Careful sampling of the cream, which\nshould be poured at least twice from one vessel\nto another before the sample is taken for the\ntest tube.\nb. Accurate measuring.\nc. Souring of the cream (to insure a uniform\ndegree of acidity in all the samples of cream,\nthey should be warmed to 70° F. and kept at\nthat temperature for twenty-four hours be-\nfore they are churned).\nd. Heating of the samples to a temperature\nof 135° F. after they have been churned.\ne. Subsequent cooling at 65° or 70° F.\nChurning, reheating and cooling.\n17. In a case where the butter oil on any sam-\nple does not separate to show a clear line or\ndemarkation between itself and the other con-\nstituents of the cream, the cooling to 70°, the\nchurning and reheating should be repeated.\nButter Making in Dairies and Creameries.—\n18. When shallow open pans are used for set-\nting, the surrounding air should be pure; a\ndamp, musty cellar is no fit place for milk.\n19. The cream for each churning should all\nbe gathered into one vessel and kept -cool and\nsweet. A good practice for fall and winter is\nto mix 25$£ of pure water with the cream before\nit has become sour.\n20. The whole of it should be well stirred\nevery time fresh cream is added, and half a\ndozen times besides.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0072.jp2"},"73":{"fulltext":"Butter.\n61\nButter.\n21. Two days before the churning is to be\ndone about 1 qt. of cream for every 4 pailf uls\nto be churned— or a quantity equal to 2%—\nshould be set apart and kept as warm as 70°\nFah.\n22. One day before the churning-, that small\nquantity of cream called a fermentation start-\ner, which will then be sour, should be added to\nthe quantity which is intended for churning\nand be mixed therewith.\n23. It should afterward be kept at a tem-\nperature of 60° Fah.\n2.4. During- summer the best churning tem-\nperature is 57° or 58°; during late fall and\nwinter 62° to 64° are found to be preferable.\n25 The agitation of churning should be kept\nup till the butter comes into particles larger\nthan clover seed.\n26. The buttermilk should then be drawn off\nand pure water at 55° added in its place.\n27. By churning this lor a minute or two the\nbutter will be washed free from milk while it\nis still in a granular state.\n28. The milky water may then be drawn off\nand replaced by a weak brine at the same tem-\nperature.\n29. After a minute s churning the butter\nmay be left to drain in the churn for half an\nhour before it is removed to be pressed and\nsalted.\n30. Pure salt of medium fineness and with a\nbody velvety to the touch should be used.\n31. oz. to 1 lb. will be the right quantity for\nmost markets for immediate consumption, and\n1 oz. to 1 lb. for packed butter.\n32. The butter should be kept cool during\nthe working and also during the few hours\nwhile it may be left for the salt to dissolve.\n33 As soon as the salt is dissolved, the butter\nmay be worked the second time to correct any\nstreakiness which the first mixing of salt may\nhave caused.\n34. It should then be put up neatly and taste-\nfully, with as little crimping and beautifying\nas feminine fondness for these will permit.\nRoll Butter.— 1. Butter is susceptible to\nodors or flavors in the surrounding air it\nshould be kept in a place where the air is\npure.\n2. If it is to be forwarded to the consumers\nmarket in rolls, it should be handled as little as\npossible. Every handling adds mussiness\nto the appearance and consequently depre-\nciates its value.\n3. Each roll should be wrapped in a clean but-\nter cloth, which has been soaked in a strong\nbrine made up from 16 parts of salt and 1 part\neach of white sugar, saltpeter and borax, dis-\nsolved in water.\n4. Packing Butter.— Butter which is being\ncollected for packing may be kept in fair con-\ndition in a clean box a better plan is to have\nit immersed in pure, strong brine.\n5. In assorting it, more regard should be paid\nto similarity of body and flavor than to like-\nness in the shade of color.\n6. The mixing table or butter worker needs\nto be kept particularly clean after it has been\nthoroughly washed with borax water, it should\nbe scalded and then cooled with cold water.\n7. The butter should be worked at a tempera-\nture which will prevent it from becoming\ngreasy. The temperature at which it is worked\nor mixed has more effect on the grain and body\nof the butter than the movements to which it\nis subjected can have. The cool atmosphere of\nearly morning, and a supply of cold water in\nwhich to float the butter, will meet the needs\nof the case.\n8. Only such packages as have a clean, neat\nappearance should be used.\n9. The top of the butter should be covered\nwith a clean butter cloth, prepared in the same\nway as that for the wrapping of roll butter.\n10. A covering plaster made of wet salt\nshould be put over the cloth to a thickness of\nY% in. or more.\n11. Butter in tubs and kegs should be brined\nfrequently the salt covering should not be\nallowed to become quite dry a brine similar\nto that which has been mentioned for use on\nbutter cloths may be used freely with good\nresults.— From the Bulletin of the Canadian\nDairy Commissioner, Experimental Farm, Ot-\ntawa.\nButter, to Preserve.— -The best method to pre-\nserve butter from the air is to fill the pot to\nwithin an inch of the top, and to lay on it com-\nmon coarse-grained salt, to the depth of y% an\nin. or of an inch., then to cover the pot up\nwith any flat article that may be convenient.\nThe salt by long keeping will run to brine, and\nform a layer on the top of the butter, which\nwill effectually keep out the air and may at any\ntime be very easily removed by turning the pot\non one side. Fresh butter, 16 lb.; salt, 1 lb.;\nfresh butter, 18 lb.; salt, 1 lb.; saltpeter 1)4, oz.;\nhoney or fine brown sugar, 2 oz.\nTo Convert Rancid Butter.— 100 lb. of butter\nis mixed with about 30 gal. of hot water, con-\ntaining lh. of bicarbonate of soda and 15 lb.\nof fine granular animal charcoal free from dust,\nand the mixture is churned together for half\nan hour or so. The butter is then separated\nafter standing, warmed and strained through\na linen cloth, then resalted, colored and worked\nup with one half its weight of fresh butter.\nTo Sweeten Rancid Butter.— Rancid butter\nmay be restored, or at all events greatly im-\nproved, by melting it with some freshly burnt\nand coarsely powdered animal charcoal (which\nhas been thoroughly freed from dust by sift-\ning) in a water bath, and then straining it\nthrough clean flannel. A better and less\ntroublesome method is to well wash the butter\nwith some good new milk, and next with cold\nspring water. Butyric acid, on the presence of\nwhich rancidity depends, is freely soluble in\nfresh milk.\nTo Test Butter with the Microscope.— When\npure butter is examined under the microscope,\nthe Avhole field is filled with extremely fine\nglobules, which are entirely destitute of any\napproach to crystalline form. If the butter is\nartificial or a mixture of both, the field presents\nnumerous angular or acicular particles be-\ntween the globules. For the chemical exami-\nnation try the following The butter to be\nexamined (if in the form of butter) must be\nfirst melted and rendered pretty free from\nwater and salt, by filtration if necessary; 10\ngrn. are then to be put into a test tube, and\nliquefied by placing the tube in hot water at\nabout 150° F.; remove the tube when ready, and\nadd 30 minims of carbolic acid (Calvert s No. 2\nacid, in crystals, 1 lb.; distilled water, 2 fl. oz.)\nShake the mixture, and again place it in the\nwater bath until it is transparent. Set the tube\naside for a time. If the sample thus treated be\npure butter, a perfect solution will be the re-\nsult if beef, mutton or pork fat, the mixture\nwill resolve itself into two solutions of different\ndensities with a clear line of demarkation the\ndenser of the two solutions, if beef fat, will\noccupy about 49*7$, lard 49 6$, mutton 44$\nof the entire volume; when sufficiently cool-\ned, more or less deposit will be observed in\nthe uppermost solution. If olive oil be thus\ntested, the substratum will occupy about 50$;\nwith castor oil there is no separation. With\nsome solid fats (not likely to be used fraud-\nulently) no separation whatever takes place;\nthe addition of a minute portion of alkanet\nroot will render the reading of the scale ex-\ntremely distinct by artificial light. The author\nstates that the above method (although not in-\ntended to surpass other processes) is capable of\nwide application; the saving of a large amount\nof time and the reliability of its results will at\nonce recommend it as a first step in butter\nanalysis.\nTo Test Butter.— The Scientific American re-\ncommends this simple test for oleomargarine\nStir a little— half a teaspoonf ul or less— of the","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0073.jp2"},"74":{"fulltext":"Button.\n62\nCamphor,\nsuspected butter in enough sulphuric ether to\ndissolve it. By the time the grease is dissolved\nthe ether will have been evaporated, and the\nresiduum will show, to smell or taste, whether\nit is butter, lard, or tallow. Five cents worth\nof ether will suffice for several tests.\nButton Metal. See Alloys.\nCabbage Worms.— Ice cold water sprin-\nkled upon cabbage plants infested by the im-\nported cabbage worm is claimed to be sure\ndeath to that insect. The water should be\nsprinkled upon the cabbages during the heat of\nthe day, when the worms will roll off and die.\nThe discovery of the remedy is credited to Mr.\nCharles H. Erwin, of Painted Post, N, Y„ and\nis communicated by Prof. C. V. Riley.\nCacao, Butter of— This is obtained from\nthe nut by bruising it and boiling it in water.\nOn the latter cooling, the oil floats and is\nskimmed off. Use, etc. As commonly met\nwith it has the consistence of butter; hence its\nname. It is much used in perfumery and for\nburning in lamps. When mixed with a little\ncaoutchoucine, or distilled spirit of India rub-\nber, it loses its concrete form and assumes the\nlimpidity of common oil, at the same time that\nits illuminating power is vastly increased.\nCacao Oil. See Oils.\nCaclious, or Mouth Pastils.— They are\nlargely used by smokers and persons with im-\npure breath. The gilding or silvering is effect-\ned in the way usually adopted for pills, viz.: A\nleaf or two of gold or silver is placed in a galli-\npot; on this an appropriate number of pills or\npastils, and then another leaf of the metal.\nThe mouth of the gallipot is next covered with\na piece of smooth writing paper, and on this\nthe palm of the hand is placed, when a sudden\nand rapid circular motion is given to the whole\nfor a second or two. Another method is to\nshake them, in a similar manner, with a little\ngold dust or silver dust. When pills are gilded\nor silvered immediately after being prepared,\nthey are usually sufficiently moist or sticky to\ncause the leaf or dust to adhere but should\nthey be otherwise, they should be previously\nbreathed on, or placed in damp air for a few\nminutes, or rubbed between the fingers or the\npalms of the hands, very slighly moistened\nwith thin mucilage, so as to render them some-\nwhat sticky, but not wet. Mouth pastils are\npreferably not coated until they are dry and\nhard, and hence generally require one or other\nof these modes of treatment. The products of\nthe following formulae are among those most\nhighly esteemed\n1. Take of soft extract of licorice, 3 oz.\ncatechu, in fine powder, 1 oz.; white sugar, 1\noz.; gum tragacanth, oz.; oil of cloves, 1 fl.\ndrm.; oil of cassia, fl. drm.; oil of nutmeg,\nessence of ambergris (royale), of each 12 drops:\nmix as before explained beat the mixture to\na firm uniform mass with eau de rose, or eau\nde fleurs d oranges, q. s., and form it into 1 grn.\nor 2 grn. pills. Lastly, when dry, silver them.\nThe stock of them should be kept in bottles or\ntin canisters, and only a sufficient number of\nboxes for present sale filled at once.\n2. M. Chevallier.— Take of fresh roasted cof-\nfee in fine powder, V/% oz.; chocolate, do.,\nV/% oz.; white sugar, do., 1]4 oz.; vanilla, do.,\n1 oz.; -harcoal (recent), do., 1 oz.; mucilage of\ntragacanth, to mix, q. s. The preceding, sucked\nad libitum, are used to sweeten and perfume\nthe breath the last also acts by chemically de-\nodorizing it. They are great favorites in the\nfashionable world among smokers.\n3. Take of chloride of lime, good dry, 1 drm.;\n•white sugar p wdered, 3 oz.; gum tragacanth,\ndo., 1 oz.; mix add of oil of cloves or pepper-\nment, 14 fl. drm.; mix thoroughly and beat up\nthe mass with rose water. This acts chemic-\nally as a disinfectant, deodorizer and bleacher,\nbut should be only occasionally and sparingly\nused, as the chloride in them attacks the en-\namel of the teeth. One at a time is sufficient.\nThe saliva should not be swallowed, and the\nmouth should be rinsed with water soon after-\nward.\n4. Extract of licorice, 1 oz.; oil of cloves, J4\ndrm.; oil of cinnamon, 5 drops moisten 1 grn.\npills with this solution and silver.\n5. Ground coffee, oz.; finely powdered\ncharcoal, \\i oz.; sugar, y z ounce.; vanilla, V 2 oz.;\nmucilage, q. s. Make into lozenges.\nCalcination.— The operation of burning\nor roasting any solid body to expel its more\nvolatile parts, as the conversion of chalk into\nlime by the expulsion of carbonic anhydride.\nThe roasting of the ores in the first stage of the\nWelsh process of copper smelting, and in the\nSilesian mode of extracting zinc, is technically\ntermed calcination.\nCalisaya Cordial for Soda Foun-\ntains.— 1. Elixir of calisaya, 1 oz.; orange\nsirup, 3 oz.\n2. Quinine sulphate, 72 grn. cinchonine\nsulphate, 24 grn.; quinidine sulphate. 20\ngrn.; cinchonidine sulphate, 12 grn.; elixir\norange, 128 fl. oz.; caramel sufficient to color.\nTriturate the mixed sulphates with one pint of\nthe elixir of orange, pour the mixture into a\nglass flask, and heat on a water bath till solu-\ntion is effected. When still hot, add remainder\nof elixir and caramel. Filter when cold.\nCalisaya Tonic, Inexpensive.— Cali-\nsaya bark, 11 oz.; gentian root, 3 oz.; orange\npeel, 12 oz.; cochineal, 4 drm.; caraway seed, 2\ndrm.; dilute alcohol, enough to make 4 pt. To\nthe filtered percolate add quinine sulphate. 30\ngrn.; oil of rose, 3 drops; sirup, enough to\nmake 4 gal. In dispensing as a carbonated\nbeverage it is best to draw kk flat, that is with-\nout foam.\nCainphine.— Name given to rectified oil\nof turpentine. Made by passing the vapor\nthrough solution of caustic potash or through\nsulphuric acid. Dangerous to burn in lamps.\nCamphor,- A concrete essential oil obtain-\ned from distillation from the camphor laurel\nof China. It is crystalline in form, though it is\nalso obtained in a liquid form from Borneo.\nCamphor, Factitious.— Pass dry hydro-\nchloric acid gas through pure oil of turpentine,\ncooled by a freezing mixture. A white crys-\ntalline mass is soon formed, which is dried be-\ntween blotters, and purified by solution in\nalcohol.\nCamphor Ice.— 1. Oil- of sweet almonds, 2\noz.; spermaceti, 4 oz.; white wax, 2 oz.; cam-\nphor, \\i oz.; melt them over a water bath, run\nin moulds of proper size and form.\n2. Expressed oil of almonds and rose water,,\neach, 1 lb. White Avax and spermaceti, each, 1\noz. Camphor, 2 oz. Oil of rosemary, 1 drm.\nMelt together. Glycerine may be substituted\nin part for the oil and rose water.\nCamphor, Naphthaline. Melt on a\nsteam bath 100 parts of camphor and 300 parts\nof naphthaline and pour into moulds. If a\nperfumed preparation is desired, add 0*2 part\ncoumarin, 2 part neroline, and 1 part uitro-\nbenzol.— Pharm. Era.\nCamphor, Fovvderlng.— According to\nTlie Pharmacist, the most efficient substance to\nkeep camphor in a finely divided condition is\nglycerine: Camphor, 6 oz.; alcohol, 5 fl. drm.;\nglycerine, 1 fl. drm. Mix the glycerine with\nthe alcohol, and triturate it with the camphor\nuntil reduced to a fine powder.\nCamphor, Tincture of.— Take of cam-\nphor, 1 oz.; rectified spirit, 9 fl. oz.; dissolve.\nThis is the formula of the new British Phar-\nmacopoeia. That of the London Ph. is 1 oz. of\ncamphor to 8 fl. oz. of spirit. The tinctura cam-\nphorce of the Edin. Ph. has only 1 oz. to 16 fl.\noz. Used as an application to chilblains, and in\nmouth rinses, and as camphor drops, etc. It is","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0074.jp2"},"75":{"fulltext":"Canceling.\n63\nCandles.\ncommonly sold as concentrated essence of\ncamphor. The spirit of wine and camphor,\nand camphorated spirit, of the shops is a much\nweaker preparation.\nCanceling Ink. See Inks.\nCandles.— A damantine Candles— 100 lb. of\nmutton tallow 2% lb. of camphor beeswax,\n4 lb. alum, 2 lb.\nAromatic Candles.— For perfuming apart-\nments.— Melt balsam of Peru and camphor with\nthe material of which the candles are to be\nmade; or the wicks may be steeped in some\naromatic tincture and dried.\nCable, Twisted or Spiral Candles.— These are\nmoulded in the ordinary way, and then turned\nby means of a special lathe or they may be\ncast in rifled moulds, from which, on cooling-,\nthey are wound out.\nCerophane Candles.— Melt over a water bath\n50 parts of stearic acid and 5 to b% parts of\nbleached beeswax. Let it remain over the\nwater bath for one-half hour, but do not stir\nor agitate. Then allow the fluid to cool, until\nthere is a slight film on the surface. Pour the\nmass into moulds, which have been heated to\nthe same temperature, but avoid stirring.\nTo Coat Tallow Candles with a Hard Substance\nwhich will not Crack.— Dip the candles succes-\nsively into the following three mixtures 1. 4\nparts white resin; 88 parts good tallow; 6 parts\ncamphor; 20 parts stearic acid; 2 parts dam-\nmar resin. Melt.\n2. 48 parts tallow 6 parts camhpor 20 parts\nstearic acid 4 parts white pitch 10 parts dam-\nmar resin. Melt together.\n3. 20 parts stearic acid 4 parts white wax\n10 parts tallow 6 parts camphor. Melt.\nColored, Candles.— Among the coloring mat-\nters used for candles are the following\nBlue: Prussian blue, indigo, ultramarine,\ncopper sulphate, aniline blue. Red Carmine,\nBrazil wood, alkanet root, minium, vermilion\naniline i*eds. Yellow Gamboge, chrome yel-\nlow, naphthaline yellow. Green Mixture of\nblue and yellow colors. Purple or violet Mix-\nture of blue and red colors. Neutral Tints\nOxides of iron, yellow ocher, Frankfort black.\nBlack: Fruit of Anacardium occidentale, aniline\nblacks. In order to dye paraffin candles with\nan aniline base, such as magenta, the dye is\nfirst dissolved in stearin, and a little of the re-\nsulting stearate is added to the paraffin.\nThere are two ways in which candles may be\ncolored black 1. Anacardium Method —Par-\naffin, or whatever material is desired for the\ncandles, is heated from 200° to 210° C. with 25%\nof its weight of the chopped fruit of Anacar-\ndium occidentale. Candles prepared in this way\nare equally black throughout, and yield no\nirritating vapors when burnt.\n2. Aniline Method.— The material to be dyed\nis heated a few degrees above its melting point\nwith 1 to 2% of nigrosine fat color (prepared by\nDestree, Wiescher Co., of Brussels). Paraffin\nand spermaceti require 1 stearin aud wax\nrequire from 1% to 2%. The candles thus pre-\npared are said to be of a somber hue through-\nout, and of a jet black appearance.\nDiaphane Candles.— Melt together in a steam\njacket 5 lb. vegetable wax, 3 lb. pressed mutton\ntallow and 11 lb. stearic acid. The stearic acid\nand the vegetable wax are the hardening in-\ngredients.\nHome Made Candles. —Many of our readers in\nthe rural districts will find that candles can be\nmade economically by mixing a little melted\nbeeswax with the tallow to give durability to\nthe candle, and to prevent its running. The\nlight from a tallow candle can be improved in\nclearness and brilliancy by using small wicks\nwhich have bpeu dipped in spirit of turpentine\nand thoroughly dried.\nHygienic Candies.— Watson and Fulton pre-\npare these by incorporating iodine and a small\nquantity of sulphur with the candle material,\nand they consider that during the combustion\nthe iodine and sulphur are both eliminated in\nthe free state, according to the equation\n4 HI X S0 2 I 4 S -f 2H a O\nLard Candles. 1. Dissolve 1 lb. alum and 1 lb*\nsaltpeter in 2 qt. water over a slow fire 12 lb.\nlard are added. The stirring must be kept up\ncontinually until all the lard is dissolved. Do\nnot leave on the fire too long, as the lard is\nliable to be discolored. It is said that these\ncandles are superior to tallow.\n2. Solid Candles from Lard.— Cut 16 lb. lard in\nsmall pieces, put in a pot with lb. alum and\ny% lb. saltpeter (previously dissolved in 1 pt.\nwater, over a slow fire). Stir constantly over\na slow fire until all the lard is dissolved. Allow\nto simmer until the steam ceases to rise, then\nremove from the fire. These candles are harder\nthan those made from tallow.\nMutton Suet Candles in Imitation of Wax.—\nThrow quicklime in melted mutton suet; the\nlime will fall to the bottom, and carry along\nwith it all the dirt of the suet, so as to leave it\nas pure and as fine as the wax itself. Now, if\nto 1 part of the suet you mix 3 parts of real\nwax, you will have a very fine, and, to appear-\nance, a real wax candle at least the mixture\ncould never be discovered, nor even in the\nmoulding of wax ornaments.\nMercurial Candles.— Red sulphide or gray ox-\nide of mercury mixed with wax, and a wick of\ncotton inserted therein. Recommended by\nMr. Collis for partial mercurial fumigation.\nThey are burnt under a glass funnel with a\ncurved neck,the upper orifice of which is di-\nrected to the diseased part.\nCandles, Roman. See Pyrotechny,\nCandles, Scented or Aromatic— These are\nprepared by introducing a very small quantity\nof any appropriate aromatic into the material\n(fat, wax or wick) of which they are made,\nwhile it is in the liquid state. Camphor, gum\nbenzoin, balsam of Peru, cascarilla, essential\noils, etc., are generally the substances selected.\nCare must be taken not to overdo it, as then\nthe candles will burn smoky and give little\nlight.\nCandles with Snuffless Wicks.— The great ob-\njection to tallow candles is the frequent neces-\nsity for removing the snuff, or charred wick,\nwhich rises into the body of the flame and ob-\nscures the light. If the wick can be exposed to\nthe air, it will be entirely consumed. 1. This is\ndone in composite candles by plaiting the cot-\nton into a flat wick, which as it burns curves\nover. Sometimes a very fine wire is included\nin the wick, which is usually dipped in a solu-\ntion of borax. 2. Twist the wick with one\nstrand shorter than the others, which will bend\nthe wick slightly when the fat melts.\nSpermaceti Candles.— Spermaceti, either alone\nor combined with hard white tallow, forms\nvery good candles, but they will not bear car-\nrying about in the hand without spilling the\nmelted portion.\nStearine Candles.— These are made of the\nstearine of stearic acid obtained from tallow,\nin the same way as other monld candles. They\nfurnish a superior light and burn a long time\nthree or four years ago it was a general prac-\ntice for the manufacturer, to add a little arse-\nnious acid (white arsenic) to the stearine, to\nprevent it crystallizing, and thus spoiling the\nappearance of the candle; but owing to the\nspirited way in which this rascality was expos-\ned by the press, it has been discontinued by all\nthe respectable houses.\nTallow Candles.— To make hard tallow can-\ndles, use a mixture of mntton tallow, 10 oz.;\ncamphor, y 2 oz.; beeswax, 4 oz.; and alum, 2\noz.\nTallow Candles, to Harden.— ifip first in the\nfollowing Stearic acid, 50 parts tallow, 44\nparts camphor, 3 parts white resin, 2 parts\ngum dammar, 1 part. When hard dip in\nother solution, which consists of 70 parts stea-\nric acid tallow, 24 parts camphor, 3 parts","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0075.jp2"},"76":{"fulltext":"Candles.\nwhite wax, 2 parts gum dammar, 1 part. For\na final coating dip in 90 parts stearic acid 5\nparts of tallow camphor, 3 parts white wax,\n2 parts.\nTallow Candles, to Make.— The ingredients are\nabout 3^ beef and mutton suet. The use of\n1 lb. of alum with each 5 lb. of tallow is rec-\nommended. Dissolve the alum in water, then\nput in the taliow, and stir until both are melt-\ned together, then run in moulds. This part of\nthe operation is conducted as follows: The\nwicks are secured in the center of each mould\nby nassing over the sticks, one of which is laid\nover the top of the mould (corresponding to\nthe bottom of the candle) and the other\nagainst the bottom points of the moulds. The\nend of the twisted wick is fastened to the stick\non the top of the mould, and is drawn by a\npiece of hooked wire through each mould in\nsuccession, leaving a loop outside the bottom\npoints of the mould; the loops are secured\nthere by the bottom stick passing through\nthem the wicks are to be drawn tight, and the\nlast end tied to the upper stick. The melted\ntallow is then poured into the moulds and\nallowed to stand about six hours in a cool\nplace, after which the bottom stick must be\ntaken out of the loops and the candles with-\ndrawn from the moulds. The tallow should\nnot be heated much more than is necessary to\nmelt it.\nWax Candles. These are made either by\npouring melted wax over the wick or by ap-\nplying the wax in a soft state with the hands,\nand afterward rolling it smooth with a roller\nof polished boxwood, upon a table formed of\npolished walnut wood. They aro then cut and\ntrimmed. The first part of this process is usu-\nally conducted over cisterns of melted wax,\nand the wicks are strung upon an iron hoop\nsuspended from the ceiling*.\nImitation Wax Candles. To tallow, purified\nby throwing powdered quicklime in it when\nmelted, add 1 part of wax to part tallow.\nThis makes a beautiful candle resembling wax.\nPut 1 oz. saltpeter and y± lb. of lime in 2 qt. of\nwater. Dip the wicks in this. This prevents\nthe tallow from running, and also improves\nthe light.\nCandle Wicks, Preparing*^-To improve the\nlight, and prevent the tallow from running,\nuse the following preparation; 1. Steep the\nwicks in a solution of lime water to which\nsaltpeter has been added in the proportion of\nV4 gal. water, 3 oz. saltpeter, lb. lime. Dry\nthe wicks before using.\n2. Borax 3 oz calcium chloride, saltpeter\nand chloride ammonium, each l^oz.; dissolve\nin 4^ qt. water, and filter. Soak the wicks in\nthis solution, then dry.\nCans, Tin.— Size of sheet for from 1 to 100\ngal.:\nFor\n1 gal\n1x20 in.\nFor 25 gal.\n30x56 in\nm ik\n10x28\n40\n36x63\n5\n12x40\n50\n40x70 tk\n6\n14x40\nit 75 ii\n40x84\n10\n20x42\n41 100\n40x98\n15\n30x42\nThis includes all the laps, seams, etc. Is suffi-\nciently correct for all practical purposes.\nCanvas, to Prepare for Painting.— 1.\nNail the canvas on the stretcher, then give it a\ncoat of thm glue size. Allow this to dry, then\napply paint of the desired tint with a palette\nknife. The paint should have about the con-\nsistency of that sold in artists tubes.\n2. 1 part white lead, 2 parts whiting a small\nportion of litharge and sulphate of zinc for\ndriers; mix with equal parts of boiled lin-\nseed oil and raw linseed, tinted with either\nbrown umber or lamp black, for a neutral\nground. The canvas is tacked upon a stretch-\ning frame, and sized with weak glue size, to\nwhich a small portion of zinc sulphate is\nadded. When dry it is stippled over with some\ndriers and raw linseed oil, as thin as possible,\n64 Carbon.\nnot saturated. When very near dry the white\nlead, whiting, etc., is mixed up very smooth,\nand put upon it very thin and smooth with a\nlarge palette knife, and hatched over with a\nlarge sash tool, drawing it across one way and\nthen at right angles until the face presents a\nface like a piece of fine linen or cartridge\npaper, when it is left to dry.\nCantliaritl.es, Tincture of. See Tinc-\ntures.\nCanvas, to Protect from and Re-\nmove Mildew. See Cleansing.\nCanvas, to Renovate. See Cleansing.\nCanvas, to Waterproof. See Water-\nproofing.\nCaoutchoue Cement. See Cements.\nCaoutchoue, Metallized.— Finely pow-\ndered metals may be mixed with the pure gum\nbefore vulcanization. See also Rubber.\nCapacity, Measures of.\ndix.\nSee Appen-\nCapsules.— These articles are usually pre-\npared by dipping the bulbous extremity of a\nmetallic rod into a strong solution of gelatine.\nWhen the rod is withdrawn it is rotated in\norder to diffuse the fluid jelly equally over its\nsurface. As soon as the gelatinous film has\nhardened it is removed from the mould and\nplaced on pins, furnished with suitable heads,\nand fixed on a cork table. When dry, the cap-\nsules are placed upright in little cefls, made in\nthe table to receive them, and the liquid with\nwhich they are to be filled is then introduced\nby means of a small glass tube. They are next\nclosed by dropping some of the solution of\ngelatine on the orifices.\nGelatine Capsules.— Dissolve in a water bath\n10 parts of gelatine; 2^ parts of sugar; 1*4\nparts of gum arabicin 10 parts of water. Take\niron pins, the lower ends of which are pear\nshaped and slightly oiled, d:p in this solution\nwhen it is lukewarm. When the gelatine films\nare congealed, detach them, and place in holes\nof the same size in wooden forms, to dry. The\ncapsules are filled with the desired medicine\nand closed with a drop of the same solution.\nCaramel.— A dark brown substance obtain-\ned by heating sugar. It is formed during the\nroasting of all materials containing sugar, such\nas coffee and malt. It is much used for color-\ning soups, wines, spirits and other liquids.\nCarbolic Acid, Perfumed^ Carbolic\nacid, 4 oz.; rectified spirit, 6 oz.; oil of berga-\nmot, 28 min.; oil of citronella, 10 min.; water,\nto make 1 pt. Dissolve the oils and acid in the\nspirit, and add the water, shaking well.\nCarbonade or Rlack Diamond.— An\nuncrystallized variety of carbon, found in\nBrazil. It is as hard as the diamond, but free\nfrom its liability to split. It is used lor turn-\ning down and truing emery wheels.\nCarbon, to Cut.— Gas carbon can be cut\nwith an old saw and a larga expenditure of\nlabor and patience. Fix the carbon in a vise,\nkeep it moist with water, and saw away. You\nmay use a strip of sheet iron, or of iron hoop\nheld in a frame like a hack saw, or a revolving\ndisk of the same metal, instead of a saw, and in\nthis case employ wet sand in the cut as an\nauxiliary.\nCarbon Ink. See Inks.\nCarbon Paper. See Paper.\nCarbon, Plastic, for Filters.— (Kletz-\ninsky.) 1. 60 parts coke 20 parts animal char-\ncoal; 10 parts wood charcoal: 10 parts pipe\nclay.\n2. 10 parts coke 30 parts animal charcoal 20\nparts wood charcoal: 40 parts short asbestos.\nThe ingredients, except the last, are pulverized,\nsifted, and mixed dry, when kneaded with an\nequal weight of molasses to a plastic mass,","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0076.jp2"},"77":{"fulltext":"Carbon.\n65\nCasehardening.\nbaked in a muffle, soaked in dilute muriatic\nacid, washed, dried and baked again.— Scientific\nRecord, 1874.\nCarbon Plates, to Make.— Select bright,\nclean coke, pulverize it finely. Mix with it a\nsmall proportion of finely ground bituminous\ncoal and pour into a mould. Put the mould\ninto an iron box and heat to redness in a muffle\nfor several hours. When cool soak in thin\nmolasses and bake as before.\nCarbon and Porous Cups, Care of.\nAfter long use the porous cells and the carbons\nshould be soaked in warm water.\nCardboard, Snowflake Appearance\non. Mix with a very concentrated aqueous\nsolution of good clean table salt enough of a\nwarm aqueous solution of dextrine to make a\nvery thin mucilage. Apply this with a wide\nsoft brush to the cardboard— the thinnest pos-\nsible coating is all that is required. Sulphate\nof magnesia, acetate of soda, and stannous\nsulphate are employed in a similar manner.\nCarmine. See Pigments.\nCarpets, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nCarpets, Substitute for. See Papier\njJIaclie.\nCarriages, to Preserve. See Cleans-\ning.\nCarton Pierre Ornaments.— The fol-\nlowing is a formula for such a composition\nGlue, previously dissolved in water, 13 parts 5\npulverized litharge, 4 parts; white lead, 8 parts;\nplaster of Paris, 1 part; very fine sawdust,\n10 parts. Oil the moulds in which it is cast to\nprevent adhesion.\nCasehardening Iron.— 1. Iron may be\ncasehardened, that is, the surface converted\ninto steel and hardened, as follows First, by\nthe common prussiate of potash process, which\nis as follows Crush the potash to a powder,\nbeing careful that there are no lumps left in it,\nthen heat the iron as hot as possible without\ncausing it to scale; and with a piece of rod\niron, spoon shaped at the end, apply the prussi-\nate of potash to the surface of the iron, rub it\nwith the spoon end of the rod until it fuses\nand runs all over the article, which must then\nbe placed in the fire again and slightly reheat-\ned, and then plunged into water, observing the\nrules given for immersing steel so as not to\nwarp the article. Another method is to place\nthe pieces to be hardened in an iron box made\nairtight by having all its seems covered well\nwith fire clay, filling the box in with bone dust\nclosely packed around the articles, or (what is\nbetter) with leather and hoofs cut into pieces\nabout an inch in size, adding thin layers of salt\nin the proportion of about 4 lb. salt to 20 lb. of\nleather and 15 lb. of hoofs. In packing the\narticles in the box, be careful to so place them\nthat when the hoofs, leather, etc., are burned\naway, and the pieces of iron in the box receive\nthe weight of those above them, they will not\nbe likely to bend from the pressure. When the\narticles are packed and the box ready to be\nclosed with the lid, pour into it 1 gal. of urine\nto the auove quantities of leather, etc.; then\nfasten down the lid and seal the seams outside\nwell with clay. The box is then placed in a\nfurnace and allowed to remain there for about\ntwelve hours, when the articles are taken out\nand quickly immersed in water, care being\ntaken to put them in the water endways to\navoid warping them. Articles to be case-\nhardened in the above manner should have\npieces of sheet iron fitted in them in all parts\nwhere they are required to fit well and are\ndifhcult to bend when cold. Suppose, for in-\nstance, it is a quadrant for a link motion fit\ninto tbe slot where the die works a piece of\nsheet iron (say y± in. thick) at each end of the\nslot, and two other pieces at equidistant places\nin the slot, leaving on the pieces a projection\nto prevent them from falling through the slot.\nIn packing the quadrant in the box, place it so\nthat the sheet iron pieces will have their pro-\njections uppermost; then in taking the quad-\nrant out of the box, handle it carefully, and\nthe pieces of iron will remain where they were\nplaced and prevent the quadrant from warp-\ning in cooling or while in the box, from the\npressure of the pieces of work placed above it.\nIt is obvious from what has been already said\nthat the heavier pieces of work should be\nplaced in the bottom of the box.\n2. Casehardening Small Articles.— Take a\nlength of gas pipe of from 6 to 12 in. and of\nsuitable diameter, screw on thimble caps, and\npack the screws in them with bone dust, or\nwith equal parts of charcoal dust and unslaked\nlime heat to a red for two hours, then chill in\ncold water. A charcoal or a coke fire is best\nanthracite will do, but bituminous coal is ob-\njectionable.\n3. Pack the articles to be casehardened in an\niron box filled with bonedust, or animal char-\ncoal made of burnt leather. For small articles\nshort pieces of gas pipe will do instead of an\niron box. The ends must be stopped and luted\nwith clay. The leather may be burnt in a pan\nor in stove, and it must be reduced to powder\nbefore being packed around the work. Heat\nthe receptacle and the contained work red hot,\nin a furnace, for a le ngth of time*proportionate\nto the size and thickness of the articles. Thin\narticles will reduire to be kept at a red heat\nonly a few minutes, while heavy articles may\nrequire half an hour or more. When sufficiently\nheated, quench the work as soon as possible in\ncold water.\n4. Common Prussiate of Potash Process.—\nCrush the potash to a powder, being careful\nthat there are no lumps left in it, then heat the\niron as hot as possible without causing it to\nscale with a piece of rod iron, spoon shaped at\nthe end, apply the prussiate of potash to the\nsurface of the iron, rub it with the spoon end\nof the rod until it fuses and runs all over the\narticle, which must then be placed in the fire\nagain and slightly reheated, and then plunged\ninto water, observing the rules given for im-\nmersing steel so as not to warp the article.\n5. Casehardening to be quickly performed is\ndone by the use of prussiate of potash. This\nis powdered and spread upon the surface of the\npiece of iron to be hardened, after the iron is\nheated to a bright red. It almost instantly\nfluxes or flows over the surface, and when the\niron is cooled ^,c a dull red it is plunged into\ncold water. Dae prefer a mixture of prus-\nsiate of potash 3 parts, sal ammoniac 1 part or\nprussiate 1 part, sal ammoniac 2 parts, and\nfinely powdered bone dust (unburned) 2 parts.\nThe application is the same in each case. Pro-\nper casehardening, when a deep coating of steel\nis desired, is done by packing the article to be\nhardened in an iron box with horn, hoof, bone\ndust, shreds of leather or raw hide, or either of\nthese, and heated to a red heat, for from one\nto three hours, then plunged in water.\n6. Casehardening Compound.— Sal soda, 27\nparts; lampblack, 24 parts; sodium chloride,\n6 parts; black oxide. manganese, 1)4 parts.\n7. Prussiate of potash, 20 parts; saltpeter, 20\nparts; sal ammoniac, 20 parts; pulverize, and\nmix thoroughly. Heat the case iron to a\ncherry heat and roll it in the above composi-\ntion, taking care to touch every part of the\nsurface. Plunge while hot in a baJi containing\n3 oz. prussiate of potash and 6 oz. sal ammoniac\nto each V/% gal. of cold water.\n8. Take some good charcoal (from oak the\nbest); also some marble (carbonate of lime).\nMix together, the marble having been broken\nsmall. Then lay the tool or other piece to be\ncasehardened in this compound, in a covered\nbox, and subject it to good and continuous\nheat. Result a deep penetration of the car-\nbon into the iron, and therefore a coating of\nsteel. In other words, the outer cuticle has","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0077.jp2"},"78":{"fulltext":"Casein.\n66\nCatarrh.\nbeen converted into steel by the process of ce-\nmentation.\n9. To economize in the more expensive mate-\nrials for casehardening cast, wrought, or mal-\nleable iron, and to harden only portions of the\narticle in the different degrees, if required, Gra-\nde Roberts, of Brooklyn, makes use of an im-\nproved method. After polishing the surface,\nhe glues to the portion to be casehardened a\ncoating of yellow prussiate of potash. A num-\nber of coats are given, according to the degree\nof casehardening required. A cheaper mate-\nrial, or simply boneblack, is used where a slight\neffect only is required. When the glue is set\nhard, the article is packed in powdered char-\ncoal, heated to redness in a quick fire, and main-\ntained at that heat for half an hour. Then it\nis hardened and tempered in the usual manner.\n10. Casehardening Powders.— I. Prussiate of\npotash dried and powdered. II. Prussiate of\npotash, 3 parts; sal ammoniac, 1 part; mix.\nII T. Sal ammoniac and bone dust, of each 2\nparts; prussiate of potash, 1 part mix.\n11. Casehardening Compound (King). A\nmixture said to be very efficacious for casehar-\ndening iron consists of 16 parts of lampblack,\n18 parts sal soda, 4 parts muriate of soda, 1 part\nblack oxide of manganese.\n12. Axle Arms.— lustead of using 1 large pan\nand plunging y% doz. arms into it, have a round\nconical box for each arm, made of old boiler\nplate, in. thick, about 2 in. or 3 in. longer,\nand about 2}4 in- larger in diameter inside than\nthe arm. Into the box place sufficient animal\ncharcoal to raise the collar of the axle arm\nnearly flush with the top of the box, then sur-\nround the arm with the charcoal as far up as\nthe collar, ramming it firmly down as you pro-\nceed, and finally cover the top of the charcoal\nwith fire clay, taking care to plaster well the\nclay round the axle and the edge of the box.\nThe furnace is a small reverberatory one, capa-\nble of holding 8 to 12 of these boxes at the same\ntime. The boxes are allowed to remain in the\nf nrnace one to two hours, according to the size\nof the axles, etc.\n13. Thin Steel Plates.— Cool them off between\ntwo flat gratings of cast iron, having small sur-\nfaces of contact.\nCasein. This substance constitutes the\nchief nitrogenized substance in milk. It is used\noccasionall y in the arts, as for the manuf ac-\ntureof case in cements.\nCasein Cement. See Cements.\nCasein Glue. See Glues.\nCasein Mucilage. See Mucilages.\nCasks, Musty.— Have the casks well scrub-\nbed with boiling hquor, in which a little soda\nash has been dissolved. If they are not wanted\nfor immediate use, let them stand exposed to\nCastings, Weight of.\nin\n10\nin\n12\nin\n12\nin\n12\nin\n12\nin\n12\nthe air, one head out, for a month. There is\nno greater purifier than the atmosphere; then\nhead up, slightly steam, blow off, and send to\ncellar to be filled. If wanted for use, scrub,\nthen gently fire until well hot through, steam,\netc., as before. They should all be tested for\nsweetness, by chipping and smelling, before\nbeing headed up. If not wanted for use, when\nfinished put about a pint of bisulphite of lime\nand water, 1 to 4 of water, and they will keep\ngood in a cellar for twelve months. See also\nBarrels.\nCastings, Cement for. See Cements.\nCastings, Composition for Filling.\nSee Compositions.\nCastings, Contraction of. By Messrs.\nBowen Co., brass founders, London.\nInch Inches of\nIncn length.\nIn thin brass castings, in 9\nIn thick y 8\nIn zinc castings,\nIn lead, according to purity, T 3 5 to T f 5\nIn copper, to X\nIn tin, 3V to\nIn silver, y a\nIn cast iron, according to purity,\nsmall castings, T V\nIn cast steel, according to purity,\npipes, y s\nThe above values fluctuate with the form of\npattern, amount of ramming, and temperature\nof metal when poured. Green sand castings\ncontract less than loam or dry sand castings.\nCastings, Shrinkage of.— Shrinkage of\ncastings in locomotive cylinders, T V in. in a foot;\nin pipes, in. in a foot; girders, beams, etc., y a\nin. in 15 in.; engine beams, connecting rods,\netc., in. in 16; thin brass, y in. in 9; thick\nbrass, in. in 10; in zinc, T 5 g in. in a foot; in lead,\nsame; in copper, T 3 g in. in a foot; in bismuth, 3%\nin. in a foot; in tin, 34 in. in a foot.\nCatalysis.— This term is applied to sub-\nstances which effect a chemical change by their\nmere presence thus in the manufacture of\noxygen, manganese dioxide is used, but it is all\nrecovered unchanged.\nCatarrh Remedy, Dr. Sage s. Dr.\nSage s catarrh remedy, says Schadler, contains\n0*5 grm. of carbolic acid, 0*5 grm. camphor, and\n10 grm. common salt, which are to be dissolved\nin f liter of water and injected into the nos-\ntrils. It appears very probable that the wide\nreputation of this remedy is a deserved one,\nand the publication of its constituents will\nrather increase than retard its sale.\nCatarrh Cure, Hall s.— A correspondent\nof the Druggists 1 Circular gives the composi-\ntion Take of potassium iodide, 1 drm.; conip.\nin 12\nin 12\nTable giving Proportionate Weight of Casting to Weight of Wood Pattern.\nBy Messrs. Bowen Co. 5 Brass Founders, London.\nA pattern weighing one\n(less weight of core\npound made of\nprints)\nc\nu\nt— 1\nto\noS\nO\nVI\na\nn\nP.\nc\nR\na\nPQ\nel\n1\n6\nlb.\n14\n9\n9-7\n13 4\n102\n10-6\n12-8\n11-7\n0-84\nlb.\n15-8\nio- 1\n10-9\n151\n115\n119\n143\n132\n095\nlb.\n167\n10-4\n114\n16-7\n119\n12-3\n14 9\n13 7\n099\nlb.\n16-3\n,103\n11-8\n155\n11-8\n12 2\n14-7\n13-5\n0-98\nlb.\n17-1\n10-9\n11-9\n163\n12 4\n129\n155\n14-2\n1-0\nlb.\n135\nOak\n8 6\n91\nT/inden\n12 9\nPear\n9-8\n102\n122\n112\n081","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0078.jp2"},"79":{"fulltext":"Catechu.\n67\nCements.\ntinct. cardamom, 4 fl. oz.; comp. tinct. gentian,\n12 fl. oz.; caramel, enough.\nCatecliu.— Cutch, gambir (formerly called\nterra japonica). These dye wares are the juices\nof certain trees evaporated down to dryness.\nThe trees from which they are mainly obtained\nare the Acacia catechu of the Malabar coast\nand the Uncaria gambir of Peru. A certain\nquantity is also manufactured from the nuts of\nAreca catechu. This is the finest kind.\nCaterpillars, to Destroy.— There are no\nfewer than nineteen insect enemies of the\ngrape, and of these, seven or eight assume the\ncaterpillar form at some stage of their develop-\nment. If the fruit has not been formed, they\nmay as a general thing be destroyed by sprink-\nling the vines with a solution of Paris green or\nLondon purple with water, say a heaping\ntablespoonf ul of the former to two gallons of\nthe latter. The vines may be dusted with a\nmixture of the poisons and plaster or flour, in\nthe proportion of 1 to 100. After the fruit has\nformed, a kerosene soap emulsion sprinkled on\nthe vines would be destructive to the pests\nwithout endangering human life. Take about\n4 lb. of common yellow bar soap, 1 gal. of kero-\nsene and 1 gal. of water heat the mass over the\nstove, stirring it till it forms a homogeneous\nthick yellowish liquid, then remove the mix-\nture from the stove and continue the stirring\nuntil it becomes cool. This should be largely\ndiluted with warm soft water, and it will be\npei manent. Pyrethrum powder mixed with\nplaster is also used to good effect, sprinkled on\nthe vines.\nCatgut.— Catgut is the name applied to\nstrings, made chiefly from the intestines of\nsheep, used for harp, violin, guitar and bow\nstrings, hatters strings, etc. It is said that the\nbest strings are made in Naples, because the\nItalian sheep, from their leanness, afford the\nbest raw material— the membranes of lean\nanimals being tougher than those of animals in\nhigh condition. The same name is also given\nto a species of linen or canvas with wide inter-\nstices.\nCathartics. Syn. Purgatives. These have\nbeen divided into 5 orders or classes, according\nto their particular actions. The following are\nthe principal of each class: I. (Laxatives,\nlenitives, or mild cathartics.) Manna, cassia\npulp, tamarinds, prunes, honey, and phosphate\nof soda; castor, almond and olive oils; ripe\nfruit. II. (Saline, or cooling laxatives.)\nEpsom salts, Glauber salts, phosphate of soda\n(tasteless salts), seidlitz powders, etc. III.\n(Active cathartics, occasionally acrid, fre-\nquently tonic and stomachic.) Rhubai b, senna,\naloes, etc.\nCatsup, Mushroom. -Sprinkle the trimmed\ntops with salt, stir them occasionally for two\nor three days, then slightly press out the juice;\nadd to each gal. of this \\i oz. each of bruised\nmustard seed and cloves and 1 oz. each bruised\nallspice, black pepper, and gently simmer for\nan hour in a porcelain -lined iron vessel; cool,\nstrain, and bottle.\nCatsup, Walnut.— Walnut shell juice, 3\ngal.; salt, 7 lb.; ginger, 8 oz.; shallots, 8 oz.;\ngarlic, 8 oz.; horseradish, 8 oz.; essence of an-\nchovies, 1 qt.; mix.\nCattle Food, Spiced.— Locust bean meal,\n6 cwt.; Indian meal, 10 cwt.; linseed cake meal,\n3 cwt.; sulphur, 1 qr. 12 lb.; saltpeter, 1 qr. 12\nlb.; common salt, 1 qr. 2 lb.; fenugreek, 2U lb.;\ngentian. 10 lb.; sulphate of iron, 5 lb.; anise\nseed, 4 lb.; ginger (ground), 3 lb.; total, 20 cwt.\n1 qr. 12 lb.\nCauline.— A color obtained from red cab-\noage, red beets, and some other vegetables.\nCaustics.— Substances which destroy or cor-\nrode the skin. Nitrate of silver (lunar caustic),\n-caustic potash, nitric and acetic acids, quick-\nlime, are all caustics, and should be used with\ncaution.\nCeilings.— Ceilings that look very rough\nand manifest a tendency to peel should be gone\nover with a solution of 1 oz. alum to 1 qt. water.\nThis will remove the superfluous lime and\nrender the ceiling white.\nCeilings, Cracked, Filling for.— Whit-\ning mixed with glue water or calcined plaster\nand water makes a good putty f or filling cracks\nin plastered ceilings.\nCeleri, Creme de. See Liquor*,\nCelluloid, Cement for. See Cements.\nCelluloid, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nCelluloid, Polishing. See Polishing.\nCelluloid, Printing upon.— Dissolve\nthe coloring substances in vinegar essence,\nacetic ether, or acetic acid. This prevents the\ncolor from running. This may not prove suf-\nficient with all kinds of celluloid. In such case\nmoisten with oil of turpentine or melted tur-\npentine wax.\nCelluloid, to Work.- In general celluloid\nis worked the same as horn or ivory. In turn-\ning the tool should be kept cool with water.\nIn case the work tears, heat the celluloid in\nwater until 90° to 100° F. are reached.\nCelluloid, Cement for.— 25 parts of shellac are\ndissolved in 25 parts of spirit of camphor and\n100 parts 90% alcohol are added. 2. Fine celluloid\nshavings are dissolved in 90$ alcohol. The cel-\nluloid companies sell an excellent cement for\ncelluloid.\nCementation.— When metallic matter is\nheated without melting in contact with an\noxidizing reagent, so that certain impurities\nare oxidized by the gas slowly penetrating the\nmass, little by little, the process is an oxidiz-\ning cementation, as in the production of mal-\nleable cast iron. When wrought iron is strongly\nheated in contact with carbon or carbon-\naceous matter, it gradually unites with a por-\ntion of the carbon, converting the iron into\nsteel. This is a carburizing cementation.\nCementation, then, is the reaction which takes\nplace between two bodies without fusion.\nCements.— The importance of cements both\nin the workshop and in the household is uni-\nversally acknowledged but the frequency of\nfailures in the use of them shows that no mat-\nter how good the receipt, or how carefully\ncompounded, if the cement is carelessly applied\nor allowed an insufficient time for setting,\nbad results are sure to follow. By observing\nthe following simple rules much time and\nmoney can be saved\n1. See that the surfaces are clean. Dirt and\ngrease are sure to breed trouble. Wash the\narticle with lye (caustic potash), or if from\nthe nature of the substance lye cannot be\nused, with carbon bisulphide. The hands are\nvery liable to be greasy, and the edges to be\njoined should not be touched by them. If the\nsubstances to be united have been joined be-\nfore, all traces of the former cement must be\nremoved.\n2. Bring the cement into intimate contact\nwith the surfaces to be united. 1 his is best\ndone by heating the pieces to be joined in those\ncases where the cement is melted by heat, as in\nusing resin, shellac, marine glue, etc. This\nheating is of great importance and is usually\nneglected, to the detriment of the strength of\nthe joint. This fact is understood by cement\npeddlers, and some of the really marvelous\nfeats performed by them are entirely owing to\nthis cause. AVhere solutions are used, the\ncement inust be well rubbed into the surfaces,\neither with a soft brush (as in the case of por-\ncelain or glass), or by rubbing the two sur-\nfaces together (as in making a glue joint be-\ntween two pieces of wood).\n3. As little cement as possible should be\nallowed to remain between the united surfaces.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0079.jp2"},"80":{"fulltext":"Cements.\n68\nCements,\nTo secure this the cement should be as liquid\nas possible (thoroughly melted if used with\nheat), and the surfaces should be pressed closely\ninto contact (by screws, weights, wedges, or\ncords) until the cement has hardened. These\nmechanical aids also help to displace the thin\nfilm of air which sticks closely to the substance.\nThe ordinary carpenter s hand screw is recom-\nmended for use with cements. It is in use by\nall cabinet makers and carpenters for gluing.\nA string tightly bound about the object answers\nthe same purpose and is good if tight. All\nexcess should be removed from the edges while\nthe cement is still liquid. Plenty of time\nshould be allowed for the cement to dry or\nharden, and this is particularly the case in oil\ncements, such as copal varnish, boiled oil, white\nlead, etc. When two surfaces, each half an\ninch across, are joined by means of a layer of\nwhite lead placed between them, six months\nmay elapse before the cement in the middle of\nthe joint has become hard. In such cases a few\ndays or weeks are of no account at the end of\na month the joint will be weak and easily\nseparated, while at the end of two or three\nyears it may be so firm that the material will\npart anywhere else than at the joint. Hence\nwhen the article is to be used immediately, the\nonly safe cements are those which are liquefied\nby heat and which become hard when cold. A\njoint made with marine glue is firm an hour\nafter it has been made. Next to cements that\nare liquefied by heat are those which consist of\nsubstances dissolved in water or alcohol. A\nglue joint sets firmly in twenty-four hours a\njoint made with shellac varnish becomes dry in\ntwo or three days. Oil cements, which do not\ndry by evaporation, but harden by oxidation\n(boiled oil, white lead, red lead, etc.), are the\nslowest of all.\n4. Coloring matters may be introduced into\ncements with gcod effect. But care should be\nused not to mix anything with the cement\nwhich will set up any chemical action and so\nweaken the joint.\n5. Select the right recipe from the following\nvery full list of cements, which contains all\nwhich are of value and many which are pub-\nlished for the first time. The arrangement is\nsuch that they can be readily found either by\ntheir name or by their use. A good rubber\ncement, shellac varnish and a good gutta\npercha cement as the following should be on\nevery amateur s work table.\nA Strong and Handy Cement.— One of the\nstrongest cements, and very readily made, is\nobtained when equal quantities of gutta per-\ncha and shellac are melted together and well\nstirred. This is best done in an iron capsule\nplaced on a sand bath, and heated either over\na gas furnace or on the top of a stove. It is a\ncombination possessing both hardness and\ntoughness— qualities that make it particularly\ndesirable in mending crockery. When this\ncement is used, the articles to be mended\nshould be warmed to about the melting point\nof the mixture, and then retained in proper\nposition until cool, when they are ready for\nuse.\nFor mending broken glass, china, wood and\nearthenware, the preparations generally used\nare the cements as follows Armenian, Botany\nBay, Cheese, Chinese, Curd, Egg, Extempora-\nneous, Glass, Glue, Hensler s, Hoenles Mahog-\nany and Parabolic. For spar, marble, and\nsimilar materials, the Alabaster cement is\nspecially adapted; the Egg and Parabolic\ncements will, however, answer the same pur-\npose. For cloth, leather, paper, card and light\nfancy work, the most suitable cements are the\nElastic, Chinese, Flour, French and Japanese.\nThe cements adapted for chemical and elec-\ntrical apparatus, and for sealing bottles, are\nalso termed Bottle, Cap, Chemical, Electrical,\nLaboratory, Maissiat s, and Varley s. The\nbuilding and hydraulic cements are described\nunder the heads Architectural. Beale s, Bru-\nyere s, Fireproof, Gad s, Gibb s, Hamelin s,,\nHydraulic, Keene s, Oxychloride, Parker s,,\nPen s, Portland, Roman, Water, and Water-\nproof. The cements used for metal work, etc.,\nin different trades are noticed under the heads\nCoppersmiths Cutlers Engineers Grinders\nIron, Letter Fixing, Opticians Plumbers\nSeal Engravers Steam Boilers, and Turners\nSee Glue, Lute, Mortar, Teeth, Cement,\netc.\nAbolithe Cement.— A new cement, stated to\npossess excellent hardening qualities, is made\nby calcining magnesite (the carbonate of mag-\nnesia) in ovens similar to those used for gas\nmaking, after which it is pulverized and mixed\nwith a quantity of fine silica. The cement is\ndeclared to possess great hardness and durabil-\nity. It may be moulded like plaster it may be\nused to ref ace the dilapidated stones of a build-\ning, and adheres with so much tenacity to wood\nthat its application as a preserver of timbers,\nrailway sleepers, etc., by painting it upon the\nsurface, has been tried with success.\nAcid-proof Cements.— 1. Acid-proof cements\nare used for cementing troughs or other ob-\njects intended to hold acid.\n2. For Galvanoplasty.— An oaken trough,\nclose made, will last from twelve to fifteen years\nif coated with Burgundy pitch 1,500 grm., old\ngutta percha in shreds 250 grm., pounded pum-\nice 750 grm. Melt the gutta percha, mix with\nthe pumice, and add the pitch. A hot iron\npassed over the surface smooths it, and assists\nadhesion. The box resists sulphate Of copper\nbaths, but not cyanides.\n3. Melt together 1 part pitch, 1 part resin and\n1 part plaster of Paris (perfectly dry).\n4. A good acid-proof cement is made by mix-\ning a concentrated solution of silicate of soda\nwith powdered glass, to form a paste. This is\nuseful for luting joints in vessels exposed to\nacid fumes.\n5. A mixture of China clay and boiled linseed\noil, in the proportions needed to produce the\nright consistence.\n6. Quicklime and linseed oil, mixed stiffly\ntogether, form a hard cement, resisting both\nheat and acids.\n7. A stiffly mixed paste of pipe clay and coal\ntar.\n8. A cement which, according to Dr. Wagner,\nis proof against even boiling acids, may be\nmade by a composition of India rubber, tallow,\nlime and red lead. The India rubber must first\nbe melted by a gentle heat, and then 6$ to 8% by\nweight of tallow is added to the mixture while\nit is kept well stirred next dry slaked lime is\napplied, until the fluid mass assumes a consis-\ntence similar to that of soft paste lastly, 20%\nof red lead is added, in order to make it harden\nand dry.\n9. Sulphur, 100 parts; tallow, 2 parts; resin,\n2 parts. Melt, add sifted ground glass.\n10. 1 part resin, 1 part sulphur, 2 parts brick\ndust the whole is melted after careful mixing.\nThis lute is proof against the attacks of nitric\nand hydrochloric acid vapors.\n11. Melt 1 part of pure rubber in 2 parts of\nlinseed oil add 6 parts of pipe clay. This mix-\nture produces a plastic cement which softens\nby heat, but does not melt.\n12. Resin 3 lb., dried red ocher lb., calcined\nplaster of Paris l A lb., linseed oil lb. These\nmust be incorporated by stirring together\nwhen melted.\n13. Have boxes perfectly dry; smear them\ninside with a hot mixture of 4 parts resin, 1\npart gutta percha, and a little boiled oil. The\nmixture must be thoroughly melted and stirred\nbefore use. A hot rod of iron may be used to\nmelt it into the crevices. They can be used for\nany ordinary type of battery.\n14. Melted India rubber alone answers well\nfor securing joints .gainst chlorine and som?\nacid vapors.\nAir and Water Tight Cement for Casks and\nCisterns.— Melted glue, 10 parts linseed oil, 5-","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0080.jp2"},"81":{"fulltext":"Cements.\n69\nCements.\nparts boil into a varnish with litharge. Hard-\nens in two days.\nAlabaster, to Mend (See also Marble).— 1. Add\npt. vinegar to pt. skimmed milk. Mix the\ncurd with the whites of five eggs well beaten,\nand sufficient powdered quicklime sifted in,\nwith constant stirring, so as to form a paste.\n2. Plaster of Paris, resin (yellow;, beeswax,\nequal parts.\n3. Rice glue, thickened with finely powdered\nquicklime.\n4. Yellow resin, 2 parts melt and stir in 1\npart plaster of Paris resin, 8 parts wax, 1\npart melt and stir in plaster of Paris.\nA Cement Withstanding Alcohol.- Take the\nbest kind of glue pour on an equal quantity\nof water; let it soak overnight; next morning\nmelt it over a gentle heat, and add fine Paris\nwhite or white lead: mix well, and add a little\nacetic acid, carbolic acid, oil of cloves, or any\nother ethereal oil, to prevent putrefaction.\nThis cement is also adapted for flexible objects\nlike leather. It will not withstand boiling\nwater well, as this softens the glue.\nAlgerian Cement. See Lutes, Algerian, below.\nAmber, to Cement.— 1. Heat the surfaces and\ncement with boiled linseed oil. Shellac is also\nrecommended. Clamp firmly.\n2. Melt mastic in linseed oil. Use hot.\n3. The Canadian Pharmaceutical Journal\nstates that amber may be cemented by moist-\nening the surfaces with solution of potash, and\npressing them together.\nAmmonia and Shellac Cement.— Pinely pow-\ndered shellac, 1 part, is softened in 10 parts\nstrong ammonia. This mass becomes fluid when\ndry. After applying to the rubber article the\nammonia evaporates. Dissolves very slowly.\nAquarium Cement. 1. (Klein.) Mix equal\nparts of flowers of sulphur, pulverized sal\nammoniac and iron filings with good linseed oil\nvarnish, then add enough white lead to form a\nfirm, easily worked mass.\n2. Whiting, 6 parts; plaster of Paris, 3 parts;\nwhite beach sand, 3 parts litharge, 3 parts\npowdered resin, 1 part. Mix thoroughly, and\nmake into a putty with the best coach varnish.\nLeave the glass a week before disturbing.\n3. Linseed oil, 3 oz.; tar, 4 oz.; resin, 1 lb.; melt\ntogether over a gentle fire. If too much oil is\nused, the cement will run down the angles of\nthe aquarium; to obviate this it should be\ntested before using by allowing a small quan-\ntity to cool under water if not found suffi-\nciently firm, allow it to simmer longer or add\nmore tar and resin. The cement should be\npoured in the corners of the aquarium while\nwarm (not hot). This cement is pliable, and\nis not poisonous.\n4. Take 10 parts, by measure, litharge, 10\nparts plaster of Paris, 10 parts dry white sand,\n1 part finely powdered resin, and mix them\nwhen wanted for use into a pretty stiff putty\nwith boiled Unseed oil. This will stick to wood,\nstone, metal or glass, and hardens under water.\nIt is also good for marine aquaria, as it resists\nthe action of salt water. It is better not to\nuse the tank until three days after it has been\ncemented.\n5. Litharge, fine, white, dry sand, and plaster\nof Paris, each 1 gill; finely pulverized resin,\ngill. Mix thoroughly and make into a paste\nwith boiled linseed oil to which drier has been\nadded, heat it well, and let it stand four or\nfive hours before using it. After it has stood\nfor fifteen hours, however, it loses its strength.\nGlass cemented into its frame with this cement\nis good for either salt or fresh water. It has\nbeen used at the Zoological Gardens, London,\nwith great success. It might be useful for con-\nstructing tanks for other purposes or for stop-\nping leaks.\nArchitectural Cement— 1. Strong rice water\nsize and paper pulped in boiling water are\nmixed together enough whiting is then added\nto make it of a proper consistence. The paper\nmust be perfectly pulped.\n2. Make the cement the same, only substitut-\ning plaster of Paris for whiting.\nArmenian or Jeweler s Ceme7it. 1. Dissolve\n5 or 6 bits of gum mastic the size of a large pea\nin as much spirits of wine as will suffice to\nrender it liquid; in a separate vessel dissolve as\nmuch isinglass (previously softened in water,\nthough none of the water must be used) in rum,\nor other spirit, as will make a two ounce phial\nof very strong glue, adding 2 small pieces of\ngum ammoniacum, which must be rubbed or\nground till they are dissolved; then mix the\nwhole with a sufficient heat. Keep it in a\nphial closely stopped, and when it is to be used\nset the phial in boiling water. The preceding\nis also effectual in uniting almost all substances,\neven glass, to polished steel.\n2. Thick isinglass glue, 1 part; thick mastic\nvarnish, 1 part. Melt the glue, mix, and keep\nwell corked. Heat in hot water to use.\n3. Keller s Armenian Cement. Soak isin-\nglass, y oz., in 4 oz. water, for twenty-four\nhours evaporate in a water bath to 2 oz.; add\n2 oz. alcohol and strain through linen; mix\nthis while warm with a solution formed by\ndissolving J4 oz. best mastic in 2 oz. alcohol\nadd of powdered gum ammoniac, 1 drm.;\nand triturated together until perfectly incor-\nporated, avoiding as much as possible the loss\nof spirit by evaporation.\n4. Ore s Formula.— Isinglass, 1 oz.; water, 6\noz.; boil to 3 02., and add V/z oz. rectified alco-\nhol; boil for a minute or two, strain, and\nadd while hot, first a milky emulsion of am-\nmoniac, 14, oz., then 5 drm. tincture of mastic.\n5. Isinglass soaked in water, and dissolved in\nspirit, 2 oz. (thick) dissolve in this 10 gr. of\nvery pale gum ammoniac (in tears), by rubbing\nthem together; then add 6 large tears of gum\nmastic, dissolved in the least possible quantity\nof alcohol.\n6. Isinglass dissolved in proof spirit (as abo vet\n3 oz.; bottoms of mastic varnish (thick, but\nclear), 1^ oz., mix well.\nAsh Cement. The following is a useful ce-\nment to fasten objects of wood to others of\nmetal, glass, stone, etc. Good cabinetmakers\nglue is warmed up with water to the consist-\nency necessary to connect wooden objects;\nthen add enough sifted ashes to bring it to\nthe thickness of a varnish. The cement should\nbe applied to the surfaces of the objects to be\nunited when warm, and then they should be\npressed together tightly. After cooling and\ndrying, the surfaces are so strongly united\nas to require great force to separate them.\nGrinding stones fastened on wood, and handles\nto painters stones for grinding colors, have\nbeen used for more than a year without exhib-\niting any appearance of fracture.\nBadigeon. Cement used to cover up unavoid-\nable holes or defects in workmanship. Many\nformulas. Every trade has its own. Putty,\nplaster of Paris, sawdust and glue, are exten-\nsively used for this purpose.\nBarrels and Casks, Cement for Closing.— Tal-\nlow, 5 parts; wax, 4 parts; lard, 8 parts; wood\nashes sifted, 5 parts. Apply with heat.\nBeaWs.— Chalk, 60 parts; lime and salt, 20\nparts of each; sand, 10 parts ^English books of\nreceipts give Barnsey sand); iron filings or\ndust, 5 parts blue or red clay, 5 parts. Grind\nand calcine. Patented as a fireproof cement.\nBell s Cement.— The composition of this ce-\nment or varnish is unknown. It may be ob-\ntained of J. Bell Co, 338 Oxford street, Lon-\ndon. This cement is largely used by the best\nmicroscopists and has obtained a world-wide\nreputation.\nLeather Belting, Cement for.— Take of com-\nmon glue and American isinglass, equal parts\nplace them in a boiler, and add water sufficient\nto just cover the whole, Let it soak ten hours,\nthen bring the whole to a boiling heat, and\nadd pure tannin untiil the whole becomes\nropy or appears like the white of eggs. Applv\nit warm. Buff the grain off the leather where","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0081.jp2"},"82":{"fulltext":"Cements.\nTO\nCements.\nit is to be cemented; rub the joint surfaces\nsolidly together, let it dry a few hours, and it\nis ready for practical use and if properly put\ntogether, it will not need riveting, as the ce-\nment is nearly of the same nature as the\nleather itself.\nBelting. See also Flexible and Rubber Ce-\nments.\nBenzine and Petroleum, Cement to Resist.\nIt has quite recently been discovered that gela-\ntine mixed with glycerine yields a compound\nliquid when hot, but which solidifies on cooling,\nand forms a tough, elastic substance, having\nmuch the appearance and characteristics of\nIndia rubber. The two substances united form\na mixture entirely and absolutely insoluble in\npetroleum or benzine, and the great problem\nof making casks impervious to these fluids is\nat once solved by brushing or painting them\non the inside with the compound. This is also\nused for printers rollers and for buffers of\nstamps, as benzine or petroleum will clean\nthem when dirty in the most perfect manner\nand in an incredibly short space of time.\nWatqf must not be used with this compound.\nBicycle Tires, etc., Cement for Cuts in— In 10\noz. carbon bisulphide dissolve 20 oz. caout-\nchouc 10 oz. gutta percha and 5 oz. fish glue.\nBind the tire well with cord until set.\nBicycle Tire Cement.— 2 parts of pitch and 1\npart of gutta percha are melted together. Use\nhot.\nBismuth Cement.— This cement is used in at-\ntaching the tops to kerosene lamps. Lead, 24\nparts; tin, 16 parts; bismuth, 20 parts.\nBisque, Cement for.— Burn some oyster shells,\nreduce to powder in a muller, and pass thro ugh\na fine sieve; make this into a paste with white\nof egg. The shells should be thoroughly clean-\ned, well burned, air slaked, and finely powdered,\nmaking simply a fine article of lime. The parts\njoined must be held firmly together for two\nminutes or so after the cement has been ap-\nplied. Be sure the parts are thoroughly clean\nbefore joining.\nBlack Cement.— 1 lb. blacksmith s ashes, 1 lb.\nsharp sand, 2 lb. of resin. Combine as in the\nlast recipe.\nBlood Cement.— 1. Slaked lime, 50 parts beat-\nen bullock s blood, 40 parts alum, 1 part mix.\n2. Slaked lime, 50 parts fine ashes, 25 parts\nbullock s blood, 8 to 10 parts. Used as a point-\ning for bricks.\nChinese Blood Cement. This cement is in\ngeneral use in China for making wooden and\npasteboard vessels, willow ware, etc., water-\nproof. Slaked lime, 50 parts beaten bullock s\nblood, 373^ parts; alum, 1 part. Mix together.\nBoiler Joints, Cement for.—l. To make a\ncement for boiler joints, take 10 parts of white\nlead ground in oil, 3 parts of black oxide of\nmanganese, and 1 part of litharge. Reduce to\na proper consistency and apply where needed.\nSee also iron and fireproof cements.\n2. Dried clay in powder, 6 lb. iron filings, 1\nlb. Make into a paste with boiled linseed oil.\nOther receipts given also in steam boiler\ncements below.\nBone Cement.— 1. Take of isinglass, 1 oz.; dis-\ntilled water, 6 oz boil to 3 oz., and add recti-\nfied spirit, 1]4 oz.; boil for a minute or two,\nstrain, and add while hot, first, a milky emul-\nsion of gum ammoniac, y% ounce, and then\ntincture of mastic, 5 drm.\n2. White Cement for Bone.— If only to fill up\ncracks, try lime and white of egg made into a\npaste, or ground rice flour mixed with water.\nBotany Bay.— Yellow gum and brick dust\nequal parts, melted together. Used to cement\ncoarse earthenware, etc.\nBottger s Cement. Bottger s cement, made\nwith fine precipitated chalk, stirred into solu-\ntion of sodium silicate at 33° B., to which pig-\nments may be added, if desired, the mixture\nhardening in six or eight hours.\nBottle Cements— A number of these cements\nwill be found under Wax, Bottle, where they\nare properly placed. See also Massiat s, Chem-\nical, and Glycerine Cements. 1. Copal varnish\nmade thick with red lead or other pigment af-\nfords an excellent bottle cement.\n2. Bottles, Cement for the Top of.— Mix gela-\ntine and glycerine, apply warm by dipping the\nneck of the bottle in the mixture. Repeat if\nnecessary.\n3. Bottle Cement for Acid Bottles, etc.— Melt\nover a water bath 2 parts tallow, and gradually\nadd until all is dissolved 30 parts pure rubber.\nWhen thoroughly melted add 2 parts of slaked\nlime.\nBrass, to Glass.— 1. Knead resin soap with J4\nthe quantity of plaster of Paris.\n2. Substitute zinc white for the plaster of\nParis, or slaked lime, which causes it to harden\nmuch slower.\n3. For Cementing Brass Letters to Glass Win-\ndows.— 16 parts copal varnish; 5 parts drying\noil; 3 parts turpentine; 3 parts oil of ditto;\n5 parts liquid glue 10 parts stucco.\nBrass Joints, Cement for.— Caoutchouc, 2\nparts; guttapercha, 1 part; brass filings, 10\nparts. Melt by the aid of heat.\nBrewers 1 Cement.— The following compound\nis recommended as a good and cheap substitute\nfor brewers pitch: (;oat twice the inside of a\nbarrel with a solution of lb. of resin,\noz. of shellac, 2 lb. turpentine, and \\k an\noz. of yellow wax, in 1 qt. of strong alcohol.\nAfter the complete drying of the second coat,,\ngive a last coat by applying a solution of 1 lb.\nsheiiac in 1 qt. of strong alcohol. This\nvarnish will perfectly cover up the pores, and\ndoes not crack off or impart a foreign taste\nto the beer.\nBrick Dust Cement.— A new cement, for se-\ncuring iron to stone, is described in some of\nthe foreign papers. The cement is made by\nmelting resin and stirring- in brick dust, which\nmust be finely ground and sifted, until a sort\nof putty is formed, which, however, runs easily\nwhile hot. In using, the iron is set into the\nhole in the stone prepared to receive it, and the\nmelted putty poured in, until the space is filled\nthen, if desired, bits of brick, previously warm-\ned, may be pushed into the mass, and a little of\nthe cement thereby saved. As soon as the whole\nis cool, the iron will be firmly held to the stone,\nand the cement is quite durable and uninjured\nby the weather, while, unlike lead and sulphur,\nit has no injurious effect on the iron.\nBrimstone. See Sulphur Cement.\nBrown Cement.— Pure gum rubber, 20 grn.;.\ncarbon disulphide, a sufficient quantity; shel-\nlac, 2 oz.; alcohol, 8 oz. Dissolve the rubber in\nthe smallest possible amount of the carbon\ndisulphide add this slowly to alcohol, avoiding\nclots add powdered shellac and place the bot-\ntle in boiling water until the shellac is dissolved\nand no more smell of carbon disulphide is given\noff.\nBrunswick Black and Gold Size (Eulenstein,\nBeale).— Equal parts of Brunswick black and\ngold size with a very little Canada balsam.\nBruyere s Water.— Prep. Mix 3 gal. of clay\nwith 1 gal. of slaked lime, and expose them\nto a full red heat for 3 hours.\nBucklanxVs Cement for Labels.— Gumarabic, 2\noz.; starch, \\Yz to 2 oz.; sugar, y% oz. All mate-\nrials should be pulverized. It can be kept dry\nand mixed up as used.\nBuilding Stone, Cheap.— Plaster of Paris, 20\nparts; 2 parts hydraulic lime; 1 part liquid glue;\n100 parts water; pour into moulds when hard\ndry in the air for 2 weeks.\nBuilding Cement. To 1 heaped bushel of mor-\ntar, made in the ordinary way, add 3^ qt. (dry\nmeasure) of iron scale and 1^ qt. of molasses.\nUse the same day.\nCanada Balsam.— Canada Balsam, to Thin.\nCan be thinned with turpentine or benzol. Do\nnot use benzole unless the balsam is quite hard.\nA gentle heat is desirable in order to mani-\npulate pronerlv. See also Lenses, below.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0082.jp2"},"83":{"fulltext":"Cements.\n71\nCements.\nCap Cements.— These are so named because\nthey are used to fix on parts of electrical or\nother apparatus to glass. They are very use-\nful for many purposes and should find a place\njn every laboratory and amateur s workshop.\nSee also Faraday s cement. 1. Glue, best white,\n11 oz.; white curd soap, 1 oz.; plaster of Paris,\n3*4 lb.; water, y 2 gal. The glue is put to soak\novernight in just enough of the water to well\ncover it. In the morning (or when properly\nsoftened) it is dissolved together with the soap\nin the rest of the water previously heated to\nboiling. When a quantity of the cement is re-\nquired, a sufficient quantity of the plaster of\nParis is mixed up quickly with enough of the\nwarm liquid to form a smooth thin paste.\nThis paste must be used at once, as it soon sets\nor hardens. When hardened, it is impervious\nto coal oil. 2. (C. G-. Williams.) Equal weights\nof red lead and white lead used for chemical\nand electrical purposes. For cementing glass\ntubes, necks of balloons, etc., into metal\nmountings. This is preferable to white lead\nalone, and may be depended on for temperature\nup to 212°. 3. Resin, 5 lb.; beeswax and dried\nVenetian red, of each 1 lb melted together. 4.\n7 lb. black resin, 1 lb. red ocher, lb. plaster of\nParis, well dried, and added while warm; heat\nthe mass to a little above 212° F. (100° C.) and\nagitate it together till all frothing ceases and\nthe liquid runs smooth the vessel is then re-\nmoved from the fire, and the contents are\nstirred till sufficiently cool for use. 5. 4 oz.\nlineseed oil added to the ingredients of tke last.\nCasein Cements.— 1. Casein cements are useful,\nand if prepared from pure casein are very per-\nmanent. The cements of casein with lime are\nparticularly recommended.\n2. Casein Cement, for Metals.— Casein is used\nfor a number of cements. Pure casein is pre-\npared in the following way Skim the milk\ncarefully until there is not a trace of cream.\nLet it stand in a warm place until it\ncurdles. Then pour it through a paper filter.\nWash the casein remaining on the filter with\nrain water until the water shows no trace of\nfree acid. Tie the casein in a cloth and boil in\nwater to remove all fat. Spread on blotting\npaper and dry in a moderately warm place. It\nwill shrivel up in a horn-like mass. For the\ncement for metals mix washed quartz sand, 20\nparts; casein, 16 parts; slaked lime 20 parts.\n3. Casein, to Prepare.— Pure casein can be\nprepared as follows Skim milk of every par-\nticle of cream, then stand it in a warm place\nuntil it curdles; then filter and wash well with\nwater, tie up in a cloth and boil in water, dry on\nblotting paper. It can then be kept a long time.\n4. A solution of casein in a concentrated\naqueous solution of borax, made with cold\nwater, makes a very tenacious cement.\n5. Casein and Soluble Glass.— Casein dissolved\nin soluble silicate of soda or potassium makes a\nvery strong cement for glass or porcelain.\n6. A cement to stop cracks in glass vessels, to\nresist moisture and heat, is made by dissolving\ncasein in a cold saturated solution of borax.\nWith this solution, paste strips of hog s or bul-\nlock s bladder, softened in water, on the cracks\nof glass, and dry at a gentle heat. If the ves-\nsel is to be heated, coat the bladder on the out-\nside, just before it has become quite dry, with\na paste of a rather concentrated solution of\nsoda and quicklime or plaster of Paris.\n7. Cheese Cement for Mending China, etc.—\nTake skim milk cheese, cut it in slices, and boil\nit in water. Wash it in cold water and knead\nit in warm water several times. Place it warm\non a levigating stone and knead it with quick-\nlime. It will join marble, stone, or earthen-\nware so that the joining is scarcely to be dis-\ncovered.\n8. Quartz sand, washed, 5 pt.; casein, 4 pt.;\nsoaked lime, 5 pt.; mix. This cement can be\nused with metals.\n9. Casein Cements, Foreign.— The chief ce-\nment used in the island of Sumatra is made\nfrom the curd of buffalo milk, prepared in the\nfollowing way The milk is left to stand till\nall the butter has collected at the top. The\nlatter is then removed, and the thick sour mass\nleft is termed the curd. This is squeezed into\ncakes and left to dry, by which it becomes as\nhard as flint. For use, some is scraped off,\nmixed with quicklime, and moistened with\nmilk. It holds exceedingly well, even in a hot,\ndamp climate, and, is admirably adapted for\nmending porcelain vessels.\n10. In the German cantons of Switzerland, a\ncompound of cheese and slaked lime is used,\nunder the name of Kaseleim, for laying floors,\nputtying joiners work, making blocks for\nhand printing cotton and tapestry goods, and\nother like purposes. The material sets so rap-\nidly that it is necessary to mix it as the work\ngoes on, which entails trouble and necessitates\na certain knack in its use. A Swiss chemist,\nBrunnschweiler, of St. Gall, has invented a\npreparation of lime and skim milk, to which he\ngives the name of Kaseleim-pulver, whereby\nthese inconveniences are avoided. Fill a bottle\nto one-fourth of its height with damp casein\nthen fill the flask with silicate of soda (water\nglass), and shake frequently until the casein is\ndissolved.\nCastings. See Iron Cements.\nTo Cement Celluloid on Wood, Leather, etc.\nMake a solution of 2 parts shellac in 2 parts\nspirits of camphor and 6 to 8 parts of alcohol\n90$. The best cement is made by dissolving\nfinely scraped celluloid in spirits or wine 90%.\nCement for Celluloid.— Dissolve 2 parts shellac\nin 2 parts spirits of camphor, and add 7 parts\nstrong alcohol. Apply warm.\nCelluloid Cement.— This preparation is practi-\ncally a trade secret. It can be obtained of the\nCelluloid Co., New York.\nChatterton s Cement for Gutta Percha. Resin\n2 parts, Stockholm tar 2 parts, gutta percha 4\nparts.\nChemical Cement. See also Laboratory Cement.\n—1. A good cement for chemical and electrical\napparatus may be prepared by mixing 5 lb. of\nresin, 1 lb. of wax, 1 lb. of red ocher and 2 oz.\nof plaster of Paris, and melting the whole\nwith moderate heat.— American Chemist .and\nDruggist.\n2. Yellow wax 4 parts, common turpentine 2\nparts, Venetian red (well dried) 1 part, melted\ntogether. Used as a temporary stopping or\nlute for the ends or joints of tubes which are\nnot exposed to much heat, as in alkalimetry.\n3. Mix equal parts of wheat flour, finely pow-\ndered Venice glass, pulverized chalk, and a\nsmall quantity of brick dust, finely ground\nthese ingredients, with a little scraped lint,\nare to be mixed and ground up with the white\nof eggs. It must then be spread on pieces of\nfine linen cloth, and applied to the crack of the\nglasses, and allowed to get thoroughly dry be-\nfore the glasses are put to the fire.\nChenoVs Iron Cement.— Iron reduced from\nthe ores by hydrogen gas is kneaded with gyp-\nsum or clay. A little vinegar is sometimes\nadded to facilitate its hardening.\nChina, Cement for. See Porcelain, Cement for y\nbelow. The casein cements are very good for\nmending porcelain.\nChinese Cement (Schio-liao).—\\. To 3 parts of\nfresh beaten blood are added 4 parts of slaked\nlime and a little alum a thin, pasty mass is\nproduced, which can be used immediately.\nObjects which are to be made specially water-\nproof are painted by the Chinese twice, or at the\nmost three times. Dr. Scherzer saw in Pekin a\nwooden box which had traveled the tedious\nroad via Siberia to St. Petersburg and back,\nwhich was found to be perfectly sound and\nwaterproof. Even baskets made of straw be-\ncome, by the use of this cement, perfectly\nserviceable in the transportation of oil.\n2. Pasteboard treated therewith receives the\nappearance and strength of wood. Most of the\nwooden public buildings of China are painted","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0083.jp2"},"84":{"fulltext":"Cements.\nCements.\nwith schio-liao, which gives them an unpleasant\nreddish appearance, but adds to their durability.\nThis cement was tried in the Austrian Depart-\nment of Agriculture, and by the Vienna\nAssociation of Industry, and in both cases the\nstatements of Dr. Scherzer were found to be\nstrictly accurate.\n3. Chinese glue is made by covering- shellac\nwith strong liquid ammonia and shaking f re-\nquently until dissolved. The solution takes\nsome time to form, and is facilitated by stand-\ning, placing the bottle (well stoppered) in a\nmoderately warm situation, and briskly agitat-\ning it at intervals. Bleached shellac gives a\nlighter colored cement, but it is not considered\nas strong. This cement is not particularly\nrecommended.\n4. Finest pale orange shellac, broken small, 4\noz.; rectified spirit (the strongest 58 o. p. J, 3 oz.;\ndigest together in a corked bottle in a warm\nplace until dissolved it should have the con-\nsistence of molasses. For wood, glass, ivory,\njewelery, and all fancy works used.\nClinch Cement, to Remove.— To remove chuck\ncement from lathe work, warm the object over\na spirit lamp and tap lightly with a stiff brush\nthe wax will adhere to the latter. If in a hurry,\na few seconds boiling in alcohol will remove\nthe remainder of the wax.\nChuck Cement. See Turner 1 s Cement.\nClay Cement.— 1. Knead 100 parts of dry clay\nwith 10 parts of linseed oil.\n2. Clay, 50 parts glass, powdered, 1 part.\n3. Same as above only substituting chalk for\nthe glass and adding an equal amount of boracic\nacid.\nClock Faces, Cement for White Enameled.—\nDammar, 50 parts gum copal, 50 parts Venice\nturpentine, 55 parts zinc white, 30 parts\nultramarine, 1 to 2 parts. Apply the cement\nhot, and polish when entirely cold.\nCloth, to Cement. See also Gutta Percha and\nPitch Cement.\nCloth, Cement f or.— 1. Gutta percha, 16 ca-\noutchouc, 4 pitch, 2 shellac, 1 linseed oil, 2.\nNomen.\n2. Fastening Cloth on Iron Rolls.— There is\nnothing better for this purpose than good glue,\nto which has been added tannin until the glue\nbecomes ropy.\nTo Cement Cloth to Polished Metal— Cloth\ncan be cemented to polished iron shafts, by first\npainting the shafts with a coat of best white\nlead paint. After the paint has dried hard,\ncoat with Russian glue, dissolved in water\nacidulated with a little vinegar or acetic acid.\nCement for Cloth or Leather.— 16 parts gutta\npercha, 4 parts India rubber, 2 parts pitch, 1\npart shellac, 2 parts linseed oil, all cut small,\nmelted together and well mixed.\nCoignet Beton.—5 measures of sand, 1 measure\nof quicklime, 34 to J4 measure of hydraulic\ncement.\nCollodion Cement. Powdered nitrate of\npotash, 1 dr.; concentrated sulphuric acid, 1J^\ndr.; carded cotton, 5 gr. The nitrate of potash\nand the acid should be mixed in a porcelain\ncapsule, gradually add the cotton, and stir for\nfive minutes. Wash it thoroughly in Clear\nwater, pull it apart and dry— not near the fire,\nas it is a species of gun cotton. Dissolve in\nrectified sulphuric ether and a little alcohol. It\nwill form a transparent, colorless, and strong,\nadhesive cement.\nConcrete Moors.— To make a permanent pave-\nment, excavate to the depth of 2 feet, and lay\nin the largest stone you can procure, 1 foot\ndeep. Fill in upon this bed enough small stones\nof egg size to level it very smooth, carefully\nfilling all the interstices between the large\nstones. Now procure a quantity of coarse\ngravel, entirely free from loam, and fill in up to\nwithin 6 inches of the surface. Let this remain\nin this condition until it has undergone a\nthorough settling and packing by being sub-\njected to a heavy rain. You will now have a solid,\nsubstantial bed for your concrete, which may\nbe made as follows To 3 lb. of clear sharp sand\nadd 1 barrel of good cement, dry. Thoroughly\nincorporate, then sprinkle enough water upon\nthe mixture to make a paste, stirring it well.\nTo this paste add 2 barrels of stone chips and 2\nbarrels of coarse gravel— but only as much,\nhowever, as the paste will take up. Mix\nthoroughly and deposit it immediately on\nthe bed, letting it fall from the barrow, and\nleveling it off to its proper height. The whole\nfloor should be covered with as little delay as\npossible, and when laid should be compressed\nby a rammer such as is used by street pavers.\nFinish with a thin coat of pure cement mortar,\nto bring the surface to complete evenness, and\ndo not let it dry too quickly, but wet it occa-\nsionally, so that it may have all the water it will\nabsorb.\nConcrete Marble.— Very finely powdered mar-\nble or white limestone is mixed with milk of\nlime until a smooth paste is formed. Some\npowdered limestone may now be added and the\nmixture used at once.\nConcrete.— 1. Five parts coarse sand, 12 parts\npebbles, 3 parts lime.\n2. 16 parts pebbles, 8 parts river sand, 2 parts\nlime.\nCoppersmiths Cement.— Powdered quicklime\nmixed with bullock s blood; use at once.\nCoppersmith^ Cement for Fastening Copper to\nSandstone.— Take 3}4 parts white lead, 3 parts\nlithai-ge, 3 parts bole, and 2 parts broken glass,\nand rub up with 2 parts linseed oil varnish.\nCorks, etc., Cement for.—l. Zinc white rubbed\nup with copal varnish to fill up the indentures;\nwhen dry, to be covered with the same mass,\nsomewhat thinner; and lastly, with copal var-\nnish alone. Plain shellac varnish will often\nanswer the purpose.\n2. Corks boiled in paraffin resist the action\nof the atmosphere, also worms and insects.\nTo Mend Crockery Ware.— One of the strongest\ncements, and easiest applied for this purpose, is\nlime and the white of an egg. To use it, take\na sufficient quantity of the egg to mend one\narticle at a time, shave off a quantity of lime,\nand mix thoroughly. Apply quickly to the\nedges and place firmly together, when it will\nvery soon become set and strong. Mix but a\nsmall quantity at once, as it hardens very soon,\nso that it cannot be used. Calcined plaster of\nParis would answer the same purpose as lime.\nCrocus Cement.— Crocus, mixed with a little\nlinseed oil, makes a hard and useful cement.\nCrucible.— 1. A mixture of powdered clay and\nbrickdust, made up with water, or a solution of\nborax. Used to join crucibles which are ex-\nposed to a strong heat. When mixed up with\nborax solution the lute becomes a compact vit-\nreous mass in the fire.\n2. Form a paste with water of 2 parts borax,\n2 parts slaked lime, and 1 part of litharge.\nCan also be used for porcelain.\nCutlers Cement for fastening blades of dinner\nknives in ivory handles consists of resin, 4\nparts; beeswax, 1 part; plaster of Paris or brick\ndust, 1 part. Fill the hole in the handle with\nthe cement, heat the tang of the blade crowd\nin and remove superfluous cement.\n2. 16 oz. rosin, 16 oz. hot whiting, 1 oz. wax.\n3. 5 parts pitch, 1 part wood ashes, 1 part hard\ntallow, melted together.\n4. 4 lb. black rosin melted with 1 lb. beeswax,\nand 1 lb. red hot whiting added.\nDammar Cement.— Dissolve gum dammar in\nbenzole, add Y d of gold size. This has the ad-\nvantage of drying very quickly, and may be\npreferably used for a first coat when glycerine\nis used as the material for mounting.\nDavy s Cement.— Davy s universal cement is\nmade by melting 4 parts of common pitch with 4\nparts of gutta percha in an iron vessel, and mix-\ning well. It must be kept fluid, under water,\nor in a dry, hard state.\nDiamantkitt.—A. German cement, according\nto Hager. Graphite, 50 parts; litharge, 15 parts:","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0084.jp2"},"85":{"fulltext":"Cements.\n73\nCements.\nmilk of lime, 10 parts; slaked lime, 5 parts; inti-\nmately mixed with enough Unseed oil to make\na firm mass.\nDiamond Cement. See Armenian Cement.\nEarthenware, Glass, etc., Cement for.— Isin-\nglass, 1 part steeped in 4 parts of water, and\ndissolved in 4 parts glacial acetic acid.\nEgg Cements.— These are useful household ce-\nments. 1. Use white of an egg beaten up with\nan equal quantity of water, add enough slaked\nlime to make a paste; apply immediatelj\n2. Plaster of Paris, with the addition of 34 its\nweight of lime, and a q. s. of white of egg. Re-\nduce the lime, which should be freshly slaked,\nto a fine powder. Mix quickly, apply immedi-\nately, and allow it to remain undisturbed for at\nleast three days.\nElastic Cement. See also Rubber Cements\n1. An elastic cement is made by mixing to-\ngether, and allowing to dissolve, the following\n4 oz. of bisulphide of carbon, 1 oz. of fine India\nrubber, 2 drm. of isinglass, oz. of gutta per-\ncha. This cement is used for cementing leather\nand rubber, and when to be used the leather is\nroughened and a thin coat of the cement is ap-\nplied. It is allowed to completely dry, then the\ntwo surfaces to be joined are warmed and then\nplaced together and allowed to dry.\n2. (Lenher.) Caoutchouc, 5 parts; chloroform,\n3 parts; dissolve, and add gum mastic (pow-\ndered), 1 part. Elastic and transparent.\n3. G-utta percha, 4 oz.; pure rubber, 1 oz.;\npitch, .1 oz.; shellac, J4 oz.; linseed oil, J^ oz.;\nmelt. Apply with heat.\nEmeru, Cement to Fasten to Wood. A cement\nfor fastening emery to wood may be prepared\nas follows: Melt together equal parts of shellac,\nwhite resin, and carbolic acid in crystals; add\nthe last after the others are melted. The effect\nof the carbolic acid is surprising.\nEnglish Roman Cement. Take a bushel of\nlime slaked with 3^j lb. of green copperas, 15\ngal. of water, and }4 a bushel of fine gravel\nsand. The copperas should be dissolved in hot\nwater; it must be stirred with a stick, and\nkept stirring continually while in use. Care\nshould be taken to mix at once as much as may\nbe requisite for one entire front, as it is very\ndifficult to match tr.e color again; and it ought\nto be mixed the same day it is used.\nEntomologists Cement.— 1. Isinglass and thick\nmastic varnish, equal parts.\n2. Dissolve gum ammoniac in alcohol, add\nthe best isinglass with gentle heat. It melts at\na gentle heat.\nEvans Cement.— 26 parts of cadmium and 74\nparts of mercury; dissolve this amalgam in an\n■excess of mercury, knead thoroughly, and heat\nif necessary, so that the cement is plastic as\nwax.\nExtemporaneous.— 1. Shellac melted and run\ninto small sticks the size of a quill. Used to\njoin glass, earthenware, etc. The edges are\nheated sufficiently hot to melt the cement,\nwhich is then thinly smeared over them, and\nthe joint made while they are still hot.\n2. Tears of gum mastic, used in the same way.\nCommonly employed by jewelers.\nFarada^s Cap Cement.— Electrical cement.\nResin, 5 oz.; beeswax, 1 oz.; red ocher or Vene-\ntian red in powder, 1 oz. Dry the earth thor-\noughly on a stove at a temperature above\n212°. Melt the wax and resin together and stir\nin the powder by degrees. Stir until cold, lest\nthe earthy matter settle to the bottom. Used\nfor fastening brass work to glass tubes, flasks,\netc.\nFat Cements.— 1. Gay is dried, powdered,\nsifted, placed in an iron mortar, and incor-\nporated with drying oil, added gradually, the\nwhole being well beaten up till the mass as-\nsumes the consistence of a fine paste. It should\nbe preserved under a coating of oil, to prevent\nit drying up. It resists the action of corrosive\ngases, but inconveniently softens by exposure\nto heat. 2. Plaster of Paris, mixed with water,\nmilk, or weak glue. Stands a dull-red heat.\nFire Proof. See also Iron Cements.— 1. Iron\nfilings, 140 parts; hydraulic lime, 20; quartz\nsand, 25 sal ammoniac, 3. These are formed into\na paste with vinegar, and then applied. The\ncement is left to dry slowly before heating.\n2. Iron filings, 180 parts; lime, 45; common\nsalt, 8. These are worked into a paste with\nstrong vinegar. The cement must be perfectly\ndry before being heated. By heating it be-\ncomesstone hard. 3. Linseed or almond meal,\nmixed to a paste with milk, lime water or\nstarch paste resists a temperature of 500° F.\n(260° C.) 4. Clay is puddled with water, and to\nit is added the greatest possible quantity of\nsand, which has been passed through a hair\nsieve; the whole is worked up in the hands, and\napplied in coats more or less thick on vessels\nneeding protection from the direct action of\nthe fire. 5. 1 part of sifted manganese peroxide,\n1 pulverized zinc white, sufficient commercial\nsoluble glass to form a thin paste. To be used\nimmediately. Becomes very hard, and presents\na complete resistance to red heat and boiling\nwater. 6. As a coating for glass vessls, to pro-\ntect them from injury during exposure to fire,\npipe clay and horse dung are made into a paste\nwith water. This composition is applied by\nspreading it on paper it is used by pipe makers\nand will stand the extreme heat of their fur-\nnaces for 24 hours without damage. 7. Shredded\ntow or plumbago is substituted for the horse\ndung. 8. Clay, 5 parts iron filings, 1 part and\nlinseed oil varnish q. s. to mix. 9. 10 parts\ncommon clay dried and pulverized 4 parts iron\nfilings; 1 part common salt; 1 part borax; 2\nparts manganese peroxide.\nFlexible Cement.— Flexible cement is com-\nposed of white pitch and gutta percha equal\nparts, mixed over a water bath. Many of the\nother gutta percha and rubber cements answer\nfor flexible cements.\nFloor Cement.— I. For cellar bottoms use 5\nparts of clean, coarse, sharp sand (plasterers\ncall it fine gravel) to 1 part of cement. It only\nrequires to be damp enough to work well. It\nis mixed in a box, wheeled into the cellar,\ndumped and spread smooth with a shovel, hoe,\nor trowel, about 2 in. thick. Take a spade or\nshovel, flat side, and beat it down hard and\nsmooth. For finishing, use 1 part of cement to\n1 part of sand this is thoroughly mixed, and\nthen watered so it is like plastering mortar.\nDump it on the first coat, about Yz In. thick,\nspread and smooth with a trowel. It will soon\nbecome as hard as stone. The cement is known\nas Portland cement, though the common hy-\ndraulic cement will answer if fresh.\n2. Mix 6 parts of plaster of Paris with 1 part\nof lime; wet, slake and lay the floor. Then go\nover it after it is dry with a solution of cop-\nperas. This is repeated several times. The\nsurface must be perfectly dry before each ap-\nplication. Finally, after some days drying,\nbrown with boiled linseed oil and finally varnish\nwith copal varnish. The floor may have to be\nlaid in sections, on account of the expansion on\nsetting. The iron oxide turns brown on expo-\nsure to the air.\nConcrete for Foundations.— 5 parts gravel and\nsand to 1 part fresh -burned stone lime, ground\nto powder, without slaking, and measured dry.\nWell turn and shovel together, with sufficient\nwater to slake the lime into the state of very\nthick mortar. Chips and small pieces of stone\nmay be added with advantage.\nConcrete for Masonry.— 1. Screened sand, 9\nparts by measure slaked lime, 7 parts forge\nashes, 1 part; puzzuolana, 1 part.\n2. 1 part slaked lime, 1 part sea sand, £4 part\nfurnace ashes.\nConcrete for Brickivork.— Slaked lime, 7 parts\nby measure sand, 12 parts.\nFrench Cement.— Gum water thickened with\nstarch; a little lemon juice is sometimes added.\nFruit Can.— Cement for sealing fruit cans is\nmade of resin 1 11)., tallow 1 oz. See wax.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0085.jp2"},"86":{"fulltext":"Cements.\n74\nCements.\nFilling Cement for Holes in Wood. Mix to-\ngether resin and turpentine 1 pt. each over a\nwater bath and add 2 pt. common burnt ocher.\nHave the work dry.\nCement for Patent Fuel.— This cement, used\nfor the agglomeration of coal dust and the\nmanufacture of patent fuel, consists of coal tar,\ngluten and starch. The quantities of these\nsubstances vary according to the quality and\nproperty of coal dust. About 2% of this mixture\n(say containing 2¥z parts tar, 1 part gluten, y%\npart starch) would be suitable for coal dust of\nan average quality of bituminous coal.\nGas Bags, Cement for .—Add part of glycerine\nto very thick boiled glue. Fill the bag with\nair and apply while warm if too sticky strew\nit with a little powdered soapstone. For large\nrents use leather well covered with glue.\nGas Fitters Cement.— Melt together 4^ parts\nresin (by weight), 1 part beeswax, then stir in\n3 parts Venetian red and pour into moulds made\nof oiled paper or iron.\nGas Retorts, Cement for.— For cementing\nearthenware gas retorts, which have to with-\nstand very high temperatures, the following\ncement can be used Powdered glass, 5 parts\nchamotte meal, 5 parts; powdered borax, 1\npart. Chamotte meal is obtained by pulver-\nizing broken pieces of gas retorts. This cement\nis a hard glass, which only melts at the highest\ntemperatures, then closes the leaks in the re-\ntort. To render the iron retort cover which\ncloses the retort air tight, a cement is used\nconsisting of schwerspath powder, to which as\nmuch soluble glass has been mixed as to obtain\na paste of sufficient strength.\nGelatine Cement.— (Marsh s Section Cutting, 2d\ned., p. 104.) Take oz. of Nelson s opaque\ngelatine, soak well in water, melt in the usual\nway, stir in 3 drops of creosote, and put away\nin a small bottle. Use warm. (For microscop-\nists 1 use.)\nGerman Cement.— An excellent cement for\nglass or earthenware is made as follows:\n2 parts gum shellac and 1 part Venice turpen-\ntine fuse together in an iron pot, and when\npartially cool form into sticks. When wanted\nfor use, melt near a gentle heat. Care must\nbe taken while fusing the material to keep the\nvessel closed, as the turpentine is very inflam-\nmable or, 2 parts litharge and 1 part each of\nunslaked lime and flint glass pulverize sep-\narately and mix. To use it, wet with old dry-\ning oil.\nGlass Cement.— 1. Lead, 3 parts tin, 2 parts\nbismuth, 2% parts.\n2. A good cement for glass, and one which\ncompletely resists the solvent action of water,\nmay, according to Herr H. Schwartz, be pre-\npared by the following process From 5 to 10\nparts of pure, dry gelatine are dissolved in 100\nparts of water. To the solution about 10% of\na concentrated solution of bichromate of potash\nis added, and the liquid is kept in the dark.\nWhen articles joined by this cement are ex-\nposed to the light, the gelatine film is acted\nupon by the chemical rays, the chromate being\npartially reduced, and the film of cement be-\ncomes tough and durable.\n3. Two parts of isinglass are soaked in water\nuntil well swollen the water is then poured\noff, and the isinglass is dissolved in alcohol by\nthe aid of heat. One part of mastic is then dis-\nsolved in three parts alcohol and added to the\nabove solution; then one part of gum am-\nmoniacum. The solution is well shaken, and\nevaporated to the consistency of strong glue,\nwhen it solidifies on cooling. For use, the ce-\nment and the articles themselves must be\nwarmed.\n4. 5 parts pumice stone are mixed with 1 of\nturpentine and 2 of shellac.\n5. Cement for Glass and Porcelain, in Sticks.— A\ngood cement for glass and porcelain can be\nmade as follows: Melt together sulphur, 6 parts;\nwhite Burgundy pitch, 4 parts shellac, 1 part;\nelemi, 2 parts mastic, 2 parts; powdered kaolin,\npassed through a very fine sieve, 6 parts. Be-\nfore applying, the surfaces to be joined must\nbe carefully heated.\n6. Lead, 3 parts; tin, 2 parts; bismuth, 2*5 parts.\n7. Best and purest gum arabic is put into a\nsmall quantity of water, and left till next day,\nwhen it is of the consistence of treacle. Calomel\n(mercurous chloride or subchloride of mercury,\npoison) is then added to make a sticky mass,\nand well mixed on a glass plate with a spatula.\nNo more is to be made than that required for\nimmediate use. The cement hardens in a few\nhours, but it is better to leave it for a day or\ntwo.\nS 8. Transparent for Glass.— Dissolve 1 part of\nIndia rubber in 64 parts of chloroform; then\nadd gum mastic in powder, 14 to 24 parts, and\ndigest for two days with frequent shaking.\nApply with a camel s hair brush.\n9. The Pharmacist recommends the following\nas a proved recipe Take 1 oz. of Bussian isin-\nglass, cut it in small pieces, and bruise well, in\norder to separate the fibers; then add 6 oz. of\nwarm Avater, and leave it in a warm place that\nthe isinglass may dissolve, which will require\nfrom 34 to 48 hours. Evaporate this to about\n3 oz. Next dissolve y% oz. mastic in 4 oz. of al-\ncohol, and when this is ready, transfer the isin-\nglass from the evaporating dish to a tin can (an\nempty ether can will be found convenient),\nheat both solutions, and add the mastic solu-\ntion to the isinglass in small quantities at a\ntime, shaking the can violently after each ad-\ndition. While still hot strain the liquid through\nmuslin cloth and put up in oz. bottles. This\ncement is very valuable, and articles, such as\nmortars, graduates, etc., mended by it, have\nbeen in use for years, and, in fact, seem, to be\nstronger than they were originally.\n10. Pure casein (see Casein) is dissolved in\nsodium silicate (water glass) in the proportion\nof 1 part of casein to 6 or 7 of the silicate.\nApply at once and dry in the air.\n11. Use bleached shellac and turpentine, vary-\ning proportions.\n12. Elemi, 1 part; shellac, 4 parts; turpen-\ntine, 2 parts. Melt.\n13. Use Canada balsam, which can be obtained\nat any artist s colorman. This is used by op-\nticians to cement their lenses together, and is\nperfectly transparent.\n14. Glass, Lime, Oil, Cement for.— Quicklime,\n4 parts litharge, 6 parts linseed oil varnish, 1\npart.\n15. Glass, Oil, Cement for.— Burned lime, 10\nparts; litharge, 15 parts; pipe clay, 5 parts;\nlinseed oil varnish, 3 parts.\n16. Without Heat.— Boil isinglass in water,,\nto a creamy consistence, and add a little al-\ncohol. Warm before using.\n17. Melt 5 or 6 bits of gum mastic, as large as\npeas, in the smallest quantity of alcohol; mix\nwith 2 oz. of a solution of isinglass (made by\ndissolving isinglass in boiling brandy to satur-\nation), having previously mixed the isinglass\nsolution with 2 or 3 bits of galbanum, or gum\nammoniac; keep in a well corked bottle, and\ngently heat before using.\n18. With a small camel brush, rub the edges\nwith a little carriage oil varnish, and, if neatly\nput together, the fracture will hardly be per-\nceptible, and, when thoroughly dry, will stand\nboth fire and water.\n19. Dissolve fine glue in strong acetic acid to\nform a thin paste.\n20. Canada balsam, or clear glue (gelatine), to\nwhich has been added a small quantity of bi-\nchromate of potash. The latter soon loses its\nyellow tint, and becomes unaffected by damp\nwhen exposed to daylight.\n21. 2 parts of common black pitch and 1 part\ngutta percha, melted and worked together till\nmixed or 2 parts shellac, 1 part Venice tur-\npentine, melted together. These would want","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0086.jp2"},"87":{"fulltext":"Cements.\nCeinents.\nusing -warm. They are both impervious to\nweather influences.\nGlass to Brass.— Boil 3 parts of resin -with 1\npart of caustic soda and 5 parts of water, thus\nmaking* a kind of soap, which is mixed with y z\nits weight of plaster of Paris.\nGloss to Iron.— Soak fine white glue or gelatine\nin water overnight. Pour off the surplus water\nand add molasses equal to about 2b% of the bulk\nof glue. Heat gently and stir until the mixture\nis formed. The proportion of molasses can be\nvaried to suit. Glycerine may be used instead\nof molasses.\nGlass to Metal.— 1. One of the best cements for\nuniting glass to other substances consists of a\nmixture of gum and calomel. Its adhesive\npower is something marvelous. It is prepared\nby putting the very best and purest gum arabic\ninto a small quantity of water, and leaving; it\ntill next day, when it should be of the consist-\nence of treacle. Calomel (mercurous chloride\nor subchloride of mercury), is then added in\nsuitable quantity, enough to make a sticky\nmass, being- well mixed on a glass plate with a\nspatula. No more is to be made than that re-\nquired for immediate use. The cement hardens\nin a few hours, but it is wiser to leave it to itself\nfor a day or two. To insure success it is neces-\nsary to use only the very best gum: inferior\nsorts are absolutely useless.\n2. A cement for such purposes as fixing- metal\nletters to glass windows consists of copal var-\nnish 15 parts, drying oil 5 parts, turpentine 3\nparts, oil of turpentine 2 parts, liquefied marine\nglue 5 parts. Melt in a water bath, and add 10\nparts dry slaked lime.\n3. Brass letters may be securely fastened on\nglass windows by the following cement Lith-\narge, 2 parts white lead, 1 part boiled linseed\noil, 3 parts; gum copal, 1 part. Mixed just\nbefore using, this forms a quick drying and\nsecure cement.\n4. 1 lb. of shellac, dissolved in 1 pt. of strong\nmethylated spirit, to which is to be added\npart of a solution of India rubber in carbon bi-\nsulphide.\n5. Take 2 oz. of a thick solution of glue,\nand mix with 1 oz. of linseed oil varnish, or\noz. of Venice turpentine. Boil together, agi-\ntating until the mixture becomes as intimate\nas possible. The pieces cemented should be\nclamped together for a space of forty-eight to\nsixty hours.\n6. 60 parts starch, 100 parts finely pulverized\nchalk, are made into a mixture with equal parts\nof water and spirit, and the addition of 30 parts\nVenice turpentine, taking care to agitate the\nmass with a stick, so as to insure its homoge-\nneity.\n7. 4 parts glue melted with the least possible\nquantity of water, 1 part Venice turpentine\nwill resist moisture.\n8. Rough the edges of the glass, and cement\nwith a creamy paste of plaster of Paris and\nalum water. Make a saturated solution of\nalum, and then add the plaster until you have a\nthick creamy mass. Put this into glass, and then\ninsert glass true, and let it remain until quite\nhard.— TV. J. Lancaster.\n9. Litharge, 2 pt.; white lead, 1 pt.; work into\na pasty condition by using 3 pt. boiled linseed\noil, 1 pt. copal varnish.\nGlass Letters, to Fir.— A thick solution of ma-\nrine glue in wood naphtha is a good cement for\nfixing glass letters. The glass must be chemi-\ncally clean and must be previously scrubbed\nwith soda, then with whitening and water, fol-\nlowed by thorough rubbing.\nGlass Cement.— 1. Take pulverized glass, 10\nparts; powdered fluorspar, 20 parts; soluble sili-\ncate of soda, 60 parts. Both glass and fluorspar\nmust be in the finest possible condition, which\nis best done by shaking each in fine powder,\nwith water, allowing the coarser particles to\ndeposit, and then to pour off the remainder,\nwhich holds the finest particles in suspension.\nThe mixture must be made very rapidly, by\nquick stirring, and when thoroughly mixed\nmust be at once applied. This is said to yield\nan excellent cement.\n2. Red lead and boracic acid, equal parts,\nadd part fine white sand; mix, reduce to\nvery fine powder, make into a. paste with dilute\nsodium silicate. Apply as an oi dinary cement,\nand heat high enough to fuse the water glass.\nGlassware, Cement for.—l. Delicate glass-\nware, as Venetian glass, can be cemented with\nbest fish glue applied hot and afterward tied\nwell\n2. 10 parts of gelatine are mixed with 2\nparts of acid chromate of lime in solution.\nThis cement is hardened by the action of light.\nGrZoss, Water Cements. See Soluble Glass.\nGlue.— Glue is a very valuable ingredient in\nmany cements. Starch and isinglass are also\nvaluable, serving to decrease the brittleness of\nmany cements, but unfortunately they are not\nwaterproof.\nThe subject of Glue has been fully treated in\nanother portion of this work. See Glues.\nGlue Cement.— 1. Common glue with pulver-\nized chalk added makes an excellent cement\nfor wood and metals.\n2. Glue Cement to Resist Moisture.— 1 part\nglue, 1 part black resin, J4 part of redocher;\nmix with the least possible quantity of water\nor, 4 parts glue, 1 part of boiled oil by weight,\nand 1 part oxide of iron.\n3. Glue, 1 lb., melted with the least possible\nquantity of water, and then mixed with black\nresin, 1 lb., and red ocher, 4 oz.\n4. Glue, melted as above, and mixed with\nabout 34 of its weight each of boiled oil and red\nocher.\n5. Ure. Melted glue (of the consistence used\nby carpenters), 8 parts linseed oil, boiled to\nvarnish, with litharge, 4 parts; incorporate\nthoroughly together.\n6. Glue (melted as last), 4 parts; Venice tur-\npentine, 1 part.\nThe first three dry in about forty-eight\nhours, and are very useful to render the joints\nof wooden casks, cisterns, etc., water tight; also\nto fix stones in frames. The last serves to\ncement glass, wood, and even metal to each,\nother. A good cement for fixing wood to glass\nmay be made by dissolving isinglass in acetic\nacid, in such quantities that it becomes solid\nwhen cold. When applied let it be heated.\nThey all resist moisture well.\nGram-Rutzoii s Cement. Hard Canada balsam,\n50 grm.; shellac, 50 grm absolute alcohol, 50\ngTm.; anhydrous ether, 100 grm. The ingredi-\nents are mixed, and when the gums are dis-\nsolved, filter if necessary, and evaporate,\naway from the flame, over a water bath until\nof sirupy thickness.\nGrinders Cement.— 1. Pitch, 5 parts; wood\nashes and hard tallow, of each 1 part, melted\ntogether.\n2. Black resin, 4 lb.; beeswax, 1 lb.; melt and\nadd of whiting, previously heated red hot and\nstill warm, 1 lb.\n3. Shellac melted and applied to the pieces\nslightly heated. Used to fix pieces of glass\nwhile grinding. The last is used for lenses and\nfine work.\nGrouvelWs Oil Cement.— White lead, Imparts;\nred lead, y% part; dry clay, 1 part. Mix with\nboiled linseed oill.\nGutta Percha and Ruhher Cements.— Are val-\nuable for many purposes, especially where the\narticle is required to be fireproof.\nGutta Percha Cements. See caution under\nrubber cements.\nGuttapercha Cement.— 1. This highly recom-\nmended cement is made by melting together in.\nan iron pan 2 parts common pitch and 1 part\ngutta percha, stirring them well together until\nthoroughly incorporated, and then pouring the\nliquid into cold water. AVhen cold it is black,\nsolid and elastic; but it softens with heat, and\nat 100° Fahr. is a thin fluid. It may be used as.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0087.jp2"},"88":{"fulltext":"Cements.\n76\nCements.\na soft paste, or in the liquid state, and answers\nan excellent purpose in cementing metal, glass,\nporcelain, ivory, etc. It may be used instead\nof putty for glazing windows.\n2. Fuse together equal parts of gutta percha\nand pitch. Use hot.\n3. A very adhesive cement, especially adapted\nfor leather driving belts, is made by taking bi-\nsulphide of carbon 10 parts, oil of turpentine\n1 part, and dissolving in this sufficient gutta\npercha to form a paste. The manner of using\nthis cement is to remove any grease that may\nbe present in the leather by placing on the\nleather a piece of rag and rubbing it over with\na hot iron. The rag thus absorbs the grease,\nand the two pieces are then roughened and the\ncement lightly spread on. The two pieces are\nthen joined, and subjected till dry to a slight.\npressure.\n4. A solution of gutta percha for shoemakers\nis made by taking pieces of waste gutta percha,\nfirst prepared by soaking in boiling water till\nsoft. It is then cut into small pieces and placed\nin a vessel and covered with coal tar oil. It is\nthen tightly corked to prevent evaporation,\nand allowed to stand for twenty-four hours. It\nis then melted by standing in hot water till\nperfectly fluid, and well stirred. Before using\nit must be warmed as before, by standing in\nhot water.\n5. An elastic gutta percha cement especially\nuseful for attaching the soles of boots and\nshoes, as on account of its great elasticity it is\nnot liable to break or crack when bent. To\nmake it adhere tightly the surface of the leather\nis slightly roughened It is prepared as fol-\nlows By dissolving 10 parts of gutta percha in\n100 parts of benzine. The clear solution from\nthis is then poured into another bottle con-\ntaining 100 parts of linseed oil varnish, and\nwell shaken together.\n6. Fuse together equal parts of pitch and\ngutta percha, and to this add about 2 parts of\nlinseed oil containing 5 parts of litharge. Con-\ntiuue the heat until the ingredients are uni-\nformly commingled. Apply warm.\n7. A gutta percha cement for leather is ob-\ntained by mixing the following. It is used hot.\nGutta percha, 100 parts; black pitch or as-\nphaltum, 100 parts; oil of turpentine, 15 parts.\n8. Gutta Percha Cement (Harting), used by\nMicroscopists.— Gutta percha cut in pieces,\n1 part; turpentine, 15 parts; shellac, 1 pai t.\nHeat the gutta percha and turpentine together,\nfilter, add the shellac (pulverized), and beat un-\ntil a drop hardens on a cold glass plate. Used\nto attach cells; the slide must be warm when\nusing the cement.\n9. Gutta Percha to Leather. Gutta percha,\n100 parts; Venice turpentine, 80 parts; shellac,\n8 parts; pure un vulcanized rubber, 2 parts;\nliquid storax, 10 parts. Heat the turpentine,\nthen add the gutta percha and shellac. Heat\nover a water bath.\nCement for Gutta Percha— Stockholm tar, 1\npart; resin, 1 part gutta percha, 3 parts.\nHagar s Cement. Graphite (elutriated), 500\nparts; whiting, 150 parts; litharge, 150 parts.\nMix with linseed oil varnish to form a stiff\nputty.\nHamelin s Mastic— Siliceous sand, 60 parts;\nBath or Portland stone (in fine powder) 40\nparts; lime marl, 20 parts; litharge, 8 parts;\nground together, For use, it is mixed up with\nlinseed oil and used like mortar. When this\ncement is applied to the purpose of covering\nbuildings, intended to resemble stone, the\nsurface of the building is first washed with\nlinseed oil.\nHeat and Acid Proof Cement.— Sulphur, 100\nparts; tallow, 2 parts; resin, 2 parts. Melt these\ntogether to a ruddy sirup, add sifted ground\nglass to form a paste, and heat when used.\nHensler s Cement.— Litharge, 6 parts quick-\nlime, 4 parts; white bole, 2 parts. Grind with\nboiled linseed oil. Though tenacious, it is not\nrecommended, on account of time required to\nset.\nHoenWs Cement.— This is composed of shellac\nand Venice turpentine. Shellac, 2 parts tur-\npentine, 1 part. Melt and mould into sticks.\nHoofs of Horses, Cement for. Use gutta\npercha, 2 parts; gum ammoniac, 1 part. Heat\nthe gutta percha and gradually add the gum\nammoniac, which must be very finely pow-\ndered. Heat for use.\nHorn and Bone, Cement for.— Dissolve in 6\nparts linseed oil, 5 parts of mastic and 2 parts\nof turpentine.\nHousehold Cement. Alum and plaster of\nParis, well mixed in water and used in the\nliquid state, form a hard composition and also\na useful cement\nHydraidic Cement.— 1. Burnt brick, 63 parts;\nlitharge, 7 parts. Use with linseed oil. Wet\nthe surfaces to be cemented.\n2. Gad s.— Clay, well dried and powdered, 3\nparts oxide of iron, 1 part mixed together,\nand made into a stiff paste with boiled oil.\nUsed for work required to harden under\nwater.\n3. Turkish Plaster or Hydraulic Cement.—\nFresh lime, 150 lb. (reduce to powder); linseed\noil, 15 qt.; cotton, 1% to 3 oz. Gradually mix\nthe oil and cotton into the lime until the mix-\nture is of the consistency of bread dough.\nMix in a wooden vessel. Dry the mixture, and\nwhen used form a paste by mixing with linseed\noil. Put on in coats. Used to coat water pipes\nof clay or metal.\nImpervious Cement.— -Use zinc white, rubbed\nup with copal varnish. See also Waterproof\nCements.\nCement Impervious to Bisulphide of Carbon.—\nBest quality of white glue with 10$ of molasses\nadded.\nCement for Incandescent Lamp Filaments.—\nTake 100 grn. carburet of iron (Dixon s stove\npolish), grind dry to a fine powder, add 10 grn.\nlump sugar, mix well in a mortar then add 40\ngrn. gold bronze, mix again; then add sufficient\nwater to make a thick paste, and apply it to\nthe junction between the carbon and the plat-\ninum wire; allow it to stand for twenty min-\nutes or so, then burn the joint to a cherry red\nheat by a fine gas flame.\nIndia Rubber Cements and Cement for. See\nRubber.\nIndianite Cement.— -1. 100 parts finely chopped\nrubber, 15 resin, 10 shellac, dissolved in a suffi-\ncient quantity of bisulphide of carbon. Used\nfor uniting pieces of India rubber.\n2. India rubber, 15 grn. chloroform, 2 oz.\nmastic, y% oz. The two first named to be mixed,\nand after the rubber is dissolved add the mastic\nin powder allow to macerate for a week. Do\nnot bring near an open light.\nAn Insoluble Cement.— A very valuable cement\nhas been discovered by Mr. A. C. Fox, of which\ndetails are published mDingler 8 Polytechnisches\nJournal. It consists of a chromium preparation\nand isinglass, and forms a solid cement, which\nis not only insoluble in hot and cold water, but\neven in steam, while neither acids nor alkalies\nhave any action upon it. The chromium pre-\nparation and the isinglass or gelatine do not\ncome into contact until the cement is desired,\nand when applied to adhesive envelopes, for\nwhich the author holds it to be especially\nadapted, the one material is put on the envelope\ncovered by the flap (and, therefore, not touched\nby the tongue), w-hile the isinglass, dissolved in\nacetic acid, is applied under the flap. The\nchromium preparation is made by dissolving\ncrystallized chromic acid in water. Take:\nCrystallized chromic acid, 2*5 grm.; water, 15\ngrm.; ammonia, 15 grm. To this solution add\n10 drops of sulphuric acid and 30 grm. of sul-\nphate of ammonia and 4 grm. of fine white\npaper. In the case of envelopes, this is applied\nto that portion lying under the flap, while a\nsolution prepared by dissolving isinglass in","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0088.jp2"},"89":{"fulltext":"Cements.\nCements.\ndilute acetic acid (1 part acid to 7 parts water)\nis applied to the flap of the envelope. The latter\nis moistened, and then is pressed down upon\nthe chromic preparation, when the two unite,\nforming a firm and insoluble cement.\nInsulating Cement.— 1. Shellac, 5 parts; resin, 2\nparts; Venice turpentine, 1 part; yellow ocher,\n3 parts.\n2. Common sealing wax and jeweler s cement\nare very convenient for many uses. The ce-\nment sold for attaching bicycle tires to the\nwheels is useful for making tanks, cementing\nrubber, etc.\nInsulators, Cement for.— Sulphur, lead, plaster\nof Paris, with a little glue to prevent it setting\nquickly.\nCement for Insulating Tapes.— 1. Pure gum\nrubber dissolved in turpentine, with the addi-\ntion of 5% of raw linseed oil.\n2. Yellow pitch, 8 parts; beeswax, 2 parts; tal-\nlow, 1 part.\nIron Articles in Stone, Cement for Fastening—\nPlaster of Paris, 14 parts; iron filings, 2 parts.\nMix and stir into a paste with water. This ce-\nment dries quickly.\nIron Cements.— A large number of the so-\ncalled iron cements are given below. These\nhave been selected from a large number, and\nhave been chosen with special regard to their\napparent trustworthiness. See also Bust, Stone,\nand Brick Dust Cements.\nIron Cement for Closing the Joints of Iron\nPipes.— 1. Take of coarsely powdered iron bor-\nings, 5 lb.; powdered sal ammoniac, 2 oz.; sul-\nphur, 1 oz.; and water sufficient to moisten it.\nThis composition hardens rapidiy; but if time\ncan be allowed it sets more firmly without the\nsulphur. It must be used as soon as mixed and\nrammed tightly into the joint.\n2. Take sal ammoniac, 2 oz.; sublimed sul-\nphur, 1 oz.; cast iron filings or fine turnings, 1\nlb. Mix in a mortar and keep the powder dry.\nWhen it is to be used, mix it with twenty times\nits weight of clean iron turnings, or filings, and\ngrind the whole in a mortar; then wet it with\nwater until it becomes of convenient consist-\nence, when it is to be applied to the joint.\nAfter a time it becomes as hard and strong as\nany part of the metal.\n3. For stopping holes in castings or covering\nscars a useful cement may, it is said, be made\nof equal parts of gum arabic, plaster of Paris,\nand iron filings, and if a little finely pulverized\nwhite glass be added to the mixture it will\nmake it still harder. This mixture forms a\nvery hard cement that will resist the action of\nfire and water. It should be kept in its dry\nstate and mixed with a little water when wanted\nfor use.\n4. Iron Cement which is Unaffected by Red\nHeat.— 4 parts iron filings, 2 parts clay,\n1 part fragment of a Hessian crucible; re-\nduce to the size of rape seed and mix together,\nworking the whole into a stiff paste with a\nsaturated solution of salt. A piece of fire brick\ncan be used instead of the Hessian crucible.\n5. A correspondent of the English Mechanic\nsays that he used the following recipe with the\ngreatest success for the cementing of iron rail-\ning tops, iron gratings to stoves, etc., and with\nsuch effect as to resist the blows of a sledge\nhammer: Take equal parts of sulphur and\nwhite lead, with about of borax; in-\ncorporate the three so as to form one homo-\ngeneous mass. When going to apply it, wet it\nwith strong sulphuric acid and place a thin\nlayer of it between the two pieces of iron, which\nshould then be pressed together. In five days\nit wiL be perfectly dry, all traces of the cement\nhaving vanished, and the iron will have the ap-\npearance of having been welded together.\n6. The following cement is recommended for\nrepairing damaged places in cast iron tanks,\ncisterns, etc. 5 parts brimstone, 2 parts black\nlead, and 2 parts cast iron filings (previously\nsifted) are melted together, taking care that\nthe brimstone does not catch fire. The damaged\nplace, perfectly dry, is well heated by laying a\npiece of red hot iron upon it, and is then stopped\nwith the cement, previously heated in a melt-\ning ladle till it becomes soft.— MetaU-Arbeiter.\n7. Equal parts sifted zinc white and mangan-\nese peroxide are mixed with soluble glass, q. s.,\nto form a thin paste use at once.\n8. Cast iron borings 10 lb., red lead 1 lb., alum\n}/i lb., lime 5 lb., sal ammoniac 2 oz. Dissolve\nthe alum and sal ammoniac in a small quantity\nof hot water, and mix in the other ingredi-\nents.\n9. Equal parts of sulphur and white lead\nwith about one-sixth proportion of borax are\nthe constituents of the mixture, and the three\nshould be thoroughly incorporated together so\nas to form one homogeneous mass. When the\ncomposition is to be applied it should be wetted\nwith strong sulphuxic acid, and a thin layer of\nit should be placed between the two pieces\nof iron to be connected, these being at once\npressed together. This cement will hold so\nfirmly as to resist the blows of a steam ham-\nmer, and dry so completely in a few days as to\nleave no trace of the cement, the work then\npresenting the appearance of welding.\n10. For Hot Air Pipes.— 60 parts (by measure)\nof chalk, 20 parts of limestone or lime, 20 parts\nof salt, 10 parts of bi awsey sand, 5 parts of iron\nfilings, and 5 parts of red or blue clay, properly\nmixed together, triturated and calcined.\n11. For Hot Water Cistern.— To 4 or 5 parts\nclay, dried and pulverized, add 2 parts of fine\niron filings free from oxide, 1 part of peroxide\nof manganese, part of sea salt and Yz part of\nborax. Thoroughly incorporate these in as fine\na state as possible, reduce them to a thick\npaste with water, and use immediately. It\nshould then be exposed to a heat, gradually\nincreasing to almost a white heat. This cement\nresists heat and boiling water.\n12. Glycerine and litharge, stirred to a paste,\nharden rapidly, and make a tolerable cement\nfor iron upon iron, for two stone surfaces, and\nespecially for fastening iron in stone. This\ncement is insoluble, and is not acted upon by\nstrong acids.\n13. You can cement cloth to polished iron\nshafts by first giving them a coat of best white\nlead paint; this being dried hard, coat with\nbest Russian glue, dissolved in water contain-\ning a little vinegar or acetic acid.\n14. For Iron and Glass.-Copal varnish 15 parts,\ndrying oil 5 parts, turpentine 3 parts, oil of\nturpentine 2 parts, liquefied glue 5 parts to be\nall melted in a water bath, and add 10 parts of\nslaked lime.\n15. For Cast Iron Cisterns of Large Dimen-\nsions.— Composed of sal ammoniac, clean bor-\nings and urine, mixed one day before required.\nThe proportions are 1 lb. sal ammoniac to 100 lb.\nborings, with sufficient, urine to make a stiff\npaste— to be well driven into the joints with a\ncalking tool a little narrower than the space\nbetween the flanges. Give at least three days\nto set before filling cistern with water. The\ncement sets as hard as the metal itself.\n16. Iron borings 12 lb., sal ammoniac 2 oz.,\nsulphur 1 oz., water q. s.\n17. Iron borings 7 to 8 lb., sal ammoniac 2 oz.,\nwater as before. The strongest lute, perhaps,\nis (17) but when the work is required to dry\nrapidly, as in the case of steam joints wanted\nin a hurry, the quantity of sal ammoniac must\nbe slightly increased, and a very little sulphur\nmust be added. This addition causes quicker\nsetting, but reduces the strength. The power\nof these lutes is dependent upon the oxidation\nand consequent expansion of the mass, there-\nfore the less foreign matters they contain, the\nbetter. They should be mad© up only as they\nare required, as they spoil rapidly when con-\ntaining much sulphur they may become quite\nhot in a few hours, and combustion has been\nknown to take place in them when left to-\ngether in quantity for a night.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0089.jp2"},"90":{"fulltext":"Cements.\nCements.\n18. Finely sifted iron filings 60 parts, finely\npowdered sal ammoniac 2 parts, flowers of sul-\nphur 1 part. This powder is made into a paste\nwith water, and immediately applied. It soon\nsets as hard as the iron it is intended to lute.\n19. For Iron Pots and Pans.— 2 parts sulphur,\n1 part of graphite the sulphur is held in an\nold iron pan over the fire till it begins to melt\nthe graphite is then added, and the mass well\nstirred till thoroughly melted and combined,\nthen poured out on an iron plate or smooth\nstone, and broken up when cold. Used like\nsolder with a soldering iron. Holes should\nfirst be filled with a rivet, and then cemented\nover.\nIron to Stone.— 1. Use plaster of Paris mixed\nwith water and add iron filings, 1 of iron to (5\nof plaster.\n2. Mix into a paste with water, 3 lb. plaster\nof Paris and 1 lb. iron filings.\nIron and Blood Cement.— 100 parts of pulver-\nized lime, triturated with bullock s blood, 290\nparts cement, and from 5 to 10 parts iron fil-\nings.\nIvory, Cement for.— 1. Dissolve 1 part of isin-\nglass and 2 parts of white glue in 30 parts of\nwater strain, and evaporate to 6 parts. Add\none-thirtieth part of gum mastic, dissolved in\ny% part of alcohol add 1 part of zinc white.\nWhen required for use, warm and shake up.\n2. Moisten thoroughly a small quantity of\nvery finely powdered quicklime with white of\negg to form a paste. Use at once, clamp parts\nfirmly together and leave for 24 hours. Use as\nlittle cement as possible.\nJannin s Cement.— This is known as Jannin s\ncement, from the name of the patentee, a resi-\ndent of Paris. The cement is simply a mixture,\nin suitable proportions, of yellow oxide of lead\n(the quality known as massicot being prefer-\nable) with glycerine. Several other metallic\noxides and matters may be mixed with the ce-\nment, so as to suit the quality or the color of\nthe cement to the nature of the work to be\nproduced, but the two essential compounds are\nyellow oxide of lead and glycerine. The pro-\nportions of oxide of lead and glycerine vary\naccording to the consistency of the cement it is\ndesired to produce. The proportion of glycer-\nine will of course be larger for a very soft ce-\nment than for a stiff cement it is not neces-\nsary, therefore, to specify the exact proportion\nof each of the two essential compounds. This\ncement is specially adapted for moulding those\nobjects which require an extreme delicacy in\nthe lines of the cast, such as engraved blocks\nand plates, forms of printing type, photoglyptic\nplates, etc. Under the influence of gentle heat\nit sets in a few minutes, and then resists per-\nfectly both pressure and heat. When set, it is\nalso a very good substitute for natural litho-\ngraphic stones, and it can replace them for\nmany practical purposes. It can also be used\nfor artistic reproductions, suchasfac-similes of\nterra cotta, whose color and sonorous quality\nit possesses. Though setting to great hardness\nin a few minutes, it does not shrink.\nJapanese Cement.— -Mix the best powdered\nrice with a little cold water, then gradually add\nboiling water Until a proper consistence is ac-\nquired, being particularly careful to keep it\nwell stirred all the time lastly, it must be\nboiled for one minute in a clean saucepan or\nearthen pipkin. This glue is beautifully white\nand almost transparent, for which reason it is\nwell adapted for fancy paper work, which re-\nquires a strong and colorless cement.\nJet, Cement for.— Shellac is the only cement\nused by jewelers for jet. The broken edges\nshould be made warm before applying the shel-\nlac. Should the joint be in sight, by smoking\nthe shellac before applying it, it will be ren-\ndered the same color as the jet itself.\nJewelers Armenian Cement.— Isinglass, dis-\nsolved in alcohol, 3 oz. (thick); add to this 15\ngrn. pale gum ammoniac (in tears); add 9 large\ntears gum mastic, dissolved in as little alcohol\nas possible. Keep closely stopped. This cement\ndries colorless.\nJewelers Turkish Cement.— 1. Isinglass, 3 oz.;\nbest gum arabic, \\y 2 oz. Put in a bottle, cover\nwith alcohol, cork loosely. Put the bottle in\nwater and boil until a thorough solution is\nmade. Strain. A good cement.\n2. Isinglass, 50 parts mastic varnish, 25 parts.\nDissolve the isinglass in as little water as pos-\nsible, adding some strong spirit of wine. The\nmastic varnish is made by pouring rectified\nspirit of wine and benzine over finely powdered\nmastic. Use as small a quantity of the solvent\nas possible in dissolving this. Pour the solu-\ntions together and mix thoroughly.\nJewelers 1 Cement.— This is the Armenian or\nDiamond Cement, which see.\nJoints. A permanent and durable joint can\nbe made between rough cast iron surfaces by\nthe use of asbestos, mixed with sufficient white\nlead to make a very stiff putty. This will resist\nany amount of heat, and is unaffected by steam\nor water.\nKeene s Marble Cement.— Baked gypsum or\nplaster of Paris, steeped in a saturated solution\nof alum and then recalcined and reduced to\npowder. For use, mix up with water the same\nas plaster of Paris. This important cement\nwill not stand the weather, but is admirably\nadapted for applying as a stucco.\nKerosene Lamps, Cement for. See Lamps.\nKittorVs White Lead Cement.— (Month. Mic.\nJonrn., 1876, p. 221). Equal parts of white lead,\nred lead and litharge (all in powder), ground\ntogether with a little turpentine until thor-\noughly incorporated, then mixed with gold size.\nThe mixture should be thin enough to work\nwith a brush. No more of the cement should\nbe made than is required for present use, as it\nsoon sets and becomes unworkable but a stock\nof the materials may be kept ready ground in a\nbottle. For microscopical use.\nLabels, Cements or Mucilages for Attaching to\nTin.— I. 4 parts shellac, 2 parts borax water, 30\nparts boil until the shellac is dissolved.\n2. Add 4 oz. dammar varnish to 1 lb. of traga-\ncanth mucilage.\n3. Balsam of fir, 1 part turpentine, 3 parts\nuse only for varnished labels.\n4. Butter of antimony is good to prepare the\ntin for the label.\n5. Venice turpentine added to good starch\npaste makes an excellent mounting medium.\n6. Use liquid glue or glue dissolved in acetic\nacid.\n7. Add 1 oz. of tartaric acid to each lb. of\nflour used in making flour paste.\n8. Add 10$ flour to tragacanth mucilage.\n9. Corrosive sublimate, 125 parts; wheaten\nflour, 1,000 parts absinthe, 500 parts tansy, 500\nparts; water, 15,000 parts. This cement is use-\nful for vessels which are kept in a damp place.\n10. Starch, 100 parts; strong glue, 50 pai-ts;\nturpentine, 50 parts the whole boiled in water.\nThis cement dries quickly.\nLabels, Cement for. See Pastes, and also\nBucklaiuVs Cement also Nickel.\nLaboi^atory, Chemical Cement, or Chemical\nMastic— Equal parts of pitch, rosin and plas-\nter of Paris (thoroughly dried) mix together.\nUsed for the masonry of chlorine chambers,\nvitriol works, etc.; and as a lining for casks\nintended to hold chloride of lirne.\nLamps, Kerosene, Cement for. —A cement\nparticularly adapted for attaching the brass\nworks to petroleum lamps is made by boil-\ning 3 parts resin with 1 part of caustic soda\nand 5 parts of water. The .composition is then\nmixed with half its weight of plaster of Paris.\nIt sets firmly in a half Ao three-quarters of\nan hour. It is said to be of great adhesive\npower, not permeable to petroleum, a low\nconductor of heat, and but superficially at-\ntacked by hot water. Zinc white, white lead,\nor precipitated chalk may be substituted for\nplaster, but hardens more slowly. See also Pe-\ntroleum-resisting Cement.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0090.jp2"},"91":{"fulltext":"Cements.\n79\nCements.\nLeather Cement. See also Belting and Gutta\nPercha Cements.— 1. A good cement is gutta\npercha dissolved in bisulphide of carbon, until\nit is of the thickness of molasses; the parts to be\ncemented must first be well thinned down,\nthen pour a small quantity of the cement on\nthe parts to be cemented, spreading it well so\nas to fill the pores of the leather warm the\nparts over a source of heat for about half a\nminute, apply them quickly together, and\npress hard. The bottle containing the cement\nshould be tightly corked and kept in a cool\nplace.\n2. This is made by mixing 10 parts of bisul-\nphide of carbon with 1 part of oil of turpentine,\nand then adding enough gutta percha, cut into\nsmall pieces, to make a tough, thickly-flowing\nliquid. One essential prerequisite to a thor-\nough union of the parts consists in freedom of\nthe surfaces to be joined from grease. This\nmay be insured by laying a cloth upon the\npart to be joined, and applying a hot iron for\na time. The cement is then applied to both\npieces, the surfaces brought in contact, and\npressure applied till the joint is dry.\n3. 16 parts of gutta percha, 4 parts of gum\nrubber, 2 parts of yellow pitch, 1 part of shel-\nlac, mejted together with 2 parts of linseed\noil.\n4. 1 lb. gutta percha, 4 oz. India rubber, 2\noz. pitch, 1 oz. shellac, 2 oz. linseed oil melted\ntogether; it hardens by keeping, and needs\nremelting for use.\n5. Leather to Metal.— Melt together equal\nparts asphalt and gutta percha, and apply hot\nunder a press.\n6. F. Sieburger recommends the following\nprocess by Fuchs: Digest 1 part crushed nutgalls\nwith 8 parts distilled water for six hours, and\nstrain macerate glue with its own weight of\nwater for twenty-four hours, and dissolve;\nspread the warm infusion of the galls on the\nleather, and the glue on the roughened metallic\nsurface apply the prepared surfaces together,\nand dry gently; the leather then adheres so\nfirmly to the metal that it cannot be removed\nwithout tearing.— PoZyt. Notizblatt.\n7. Leather to Pasteboard.— Strong glue, 50\nparts, is dissolved with a little turpentine in a\nsufficiency of water, over a gentle fire to the\nmixture is added a thick paste made with 100\nparts of starch. It is applied cold, and dries\nrapidly.\n8. Soak the leather in a hot infusion of nut-\ngalls, coat the metal with gelatine, and bring\nthem together.\n9. Leather and Pasteboard, Cement for.—\nStrong glue, 60 parts, is dissolved with a little\nturpentine in q. s. water, over a gentle fire;\nto the mixture is added a thin paste, made with\n100 parts of starch. It is applied cold, and\ndries rapidly.\n10. Leather on Top Rollers, Cement to Fast-\nen.— Gum arabic,5J^ oz.; isinglass, 5J^ oz. Dis-\nsolve separately in water and mix.\nLenses, to Cement.— In those of foreign make,\nan arborescent appearance is occasionally to\nbe seen between the elementary parts of which\nthe lens is composed. This arises from the\ndrying or shrinking of the balsam with which\nit is cemented. To remedy this, unset the\nlens, place it in warm water, which may be\nstill further heated till the balsam softens,\nseparate the components, and clean with ether,\nbenzole, or turpentine. Next place a drop of\npure balsam on the center of the concave sur-\nface, and gently press the convex one down\nupon it until the balsam spreads and oozes out\nat the edges. Then apply a gentle heat until\nthe balsam is found to have been hardened.\nLetter-fixing Cement.— Copal varnish, 15 parts;\ndrying oil, 5 parts; oil of turpentine, 2 parts:\nliquefied glue (made with the least quantity of\nwater), 5 parts melt together in n water bath,\nand add fresh slaked lime (perfectly dry, and in\nvery fine powder), 10 parts. Used to attach\nmetal letters to plate glass in shop windows.\nLetters, Metal, Cementing to Glass.— Copal\nvarnish, 3 parts linseed oil varnish, 1 part oil\nof turpentine, 1 part glue, 1 part. Use best\nCanada balsam. Add carpenter s glue, 2 oz.;\nVenice turpentine, V£ oz.\nLime Cements.— Lime cements are very valu-\nable in mending many articles and when com-\nbined with casein, sodium silicate, or egg, pro-\nduce one of the simplest and most durable\ncements for household use.\nLime Cement used by Joiners.— Mix 20 parts\nflour, 10 parts slaked lime, and 3 parts linseed\noil varnish.\nLime and Glue Cement.— Into hot glue stir\nair-slaked lime. This gives a good cement and\nvery cheap.\nLinseed Oil Cements.— Linseed oil, 25 parts\nboil with 35 parts litharge and 250 parts finely\npowdered burned lime. Use hot. Used for\njointing stones, etc.\nLiquid Cement or Glue.—l. To make 1 gal.\nof the gum, about 1^ gal. of water, 3 lb. of\nglue, 4 oz. of borax, and 2 oz. of carbonate\nof soda, or an equivalent of any other alkali,\nare taken. The glue and alkaline salts are\ndissolved in the water by heat, and the solution\nis kept at a temperature a few degrees below\nboiling point for 5 or 6 hours. The continued\napplication of heat renders the gum perma-\nnently liquid at the ordinary temperature.\nAfter allowing the sediment to settle, the clear\nliquid is evaporated to the required consist-\nency.\n2. Soak gelatine in water, melt at a low heat\nand add strong vinegar or acetic acid until.it\nremains liquid when cold.\nLitharge Cement.— Litharge, 1 oz.; plaster of\nParis, 1 oz.; finely powdered resin, y$ oz.; mix\nthoroughly, and make into a paste with boiled\nlinseed oil to which driers have been added.\nBeat it well, and let it stand four or five hours\nbefore using. Soda silicate and chalk make a\ngood cement.\nLitharge and Glycerine Cement.— A cement\nmade of very finely powdered oxide of lead\n(litharge) and concentrated glycerine unites\nwood to iron with remarkable efficiency. The\ncomposition is insoluble in most acids, is un-\naffected by the action of moderate heat, sets\nrapidly, and acquires an extraordinary hard-\nness.\nLondon Cement.— The London cement for\njoining broken glass, china, wood, etc., is made\nby taking a piece of Gloucester cheese, boiling-\nit three times in water, each time allowing the\nwater to evaporate, and mixing the paste thus\nleft with dry quicklime.\nLoveWs Cement, used by Microscopists.—\nPowdered white lead, 2 parts powdered red\nlead, 2 parts; powdered litharge, 3 parts;\ngold size. The white and red lead and the\nlitharge must be very finely powdered; for\nuse this powder is mixed with gold size\nto the consistency of cream, and the cells\nimmediately fastened to the slide. They are\nsecure in two weeks. This stands considerable\nheat and is excellent for fluids containing some\nalcohol. Make a little only of the mixture with\ngold size at a time, as it hardens quite rapidly\nand becomes useless.\nLutes.— A lute is a tenacious and ductile com-\nposition becoming solid on drying, employed\nto secure the joints of vessels intended to be\nsubjected to corrosive influence, such as heat,\nwater, steam, acids, and gases, and to pre-\nvent the escape of liquid or volatile bodies.\nBesides the lutes mentioned below others will\nbe found in other portions of the cement divi-\nsion of this book. As Acid-proof, aquariums,\ncap, chemical, coppersmiths 1 fireproof, iron,\nlaboratory, Massiat s, putties, Serbat, steam,\nand waterproof.\nAlgerian.— 1. Wood ashes, 2 parts; lime, 3\nparts; sand, 1 part; mixed, passed through a\nsieve, moistened with water and oil, and beaten\nup with a wooden mallet till the compound\nhas acquired the right consistence.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0091.jp2"},"92":{"fulltext":"Cements\n80\nCements.\n2. Ground almond cake as before or linseed\ncake is added to starch, paste and gum water.\nAlmond Paste.— Ground almond cake from\nwhich the oil has been expressed is mixed\nwith an equal weight of whiting- and made into\na paste with water. It is employed where the\nheat does not exceed 3J0° F.\nFat Lute.— Clay is powdered, sifted, placed in\nan iron mortar, and incorporated with drying-\noil, added gradually, the whole being beaten up\ntill the mass assumes the consistence of a fine\npaste. It should be preserved under a coating\nof oil to prevent it drying up. It resists the ac-\ntion of corrosive gases, but softens on exposure\nto heat.\nPlaster of Paris mixed with water, milk, or\nweak glue stands a dull red heat.\nCrucible Lute.— Make a paste of freshly slaked\nlime and a concentrated solution of borax. Let\nit get thoroughly dry.\nLutes for Crucibles.— Powdered clay and brick\ndust mixed up with a solution of borax in\nwater.\nDihVs Lute.— A mixture of boiled linseed oil,\nlitharge, and powdered china clay. The whole\nis made into a paste and applied with a trowel.\nThe surfaces of the joint must be previously\nthoroughly cleaned and dried.\nLutes.— 1. Linseed meal, either alone or mixed\nwith an equal weight of whiting, and made into\na stiff paste with water. It soon becomes very\nhard and tough.\n2. Fresh slaked lime made into a paste with\nstrained bullock s blood, or size. Used as the\nlast.\n3. Plaster of Paris made into a paste with\nwater and at once applied. It bears nearly a\nred heat, but becomes rather porous and fri-\nble use screws or clamps.\n4. Powdered clay or whiting made into putty,\nwith water and boiled linseed oil. This is com-\nmonly known as fat lute.\n5. A mixture of powdered clay and ground\nbricks, made up with water or a solution of\nborax. For joining crucibles, etc., which are\nto be exposed to a strong heat.\n6. Pipe clay and horse dung made into a\npaste with water. As a coating for glass ves-\nsels, to preserve them from injury from ex-\nposure to the fire. This composition is used\nby pipe makers, and will stand unharmed the\ngreatest heat of their kilns for 24 hours. It is\napplied by spreading it on paper.\n7. As the last, but employing shredded tow or\nplumbago for horse dung. For the joints of small\nvessels, as tubes, etc., especially those of glass or\nearthenware, pieces of vulcanized India rubber\ntubing slipped over and tied above and below\nthe joint, are very convenient substitutes for\nlutes. Flat rings or washers of vulcan-\nized rubber are excellent for still heads, when\nthe parts can be pinched together by clamps.\nGlass, Lute for.— As a coating for glass ves-\nsels, to protect them from injury during ex-\nposure to the fire, pipe clay and horse dung\nare made into a paste with water. This com-\nposition is applied by spreading it on paper.\nShredded tow or plumbago is substituted for\nthe horse dung.\nLute for Stills or Retorts.— (Lemery s.) Fine\nlime, J^ oz.; fine flour, oz.; potter s earth, J4\noz.; make a moist paste of this, with white of\negg, beaten up with a little water. This will\nstop retorts very closely.\nLute for Retorts.— (Boyle s.) Pound in a\nmortar some fine quicklime, and scrapings of\ncheese, water q. s. to make a soft paste. Spread\non a linqn rag, and apply.\nWater Gutters, Lute for.— Tar, 1 part tallow,\n1 part fine brick dust, 1 part the latter is\nwarmed over a gentle fire the tallow is added;\nthen the brick dust, and the whole is thorough-\nly mixed. It must be applied while hot.\nWooden Vessels, Lute for.— A mixture of lime,\nclay, and oxide of iron, separately calcined,\nand reduced to fine powder, then intimately\nmixed, kept in a closed vessel, and made up with\nthe requisite amount of water when wanted.\nMahogany Cement.— 1. Melt beeswax 4 oz.;\nthen add Indian red 1 oz., and enough yellow\nocher to produce the required tint.\n2. Shellac, melted and colored as above.\nVery hard. Used to fill up holes and cracks in\nmahogany.\nMarble, Cements for.— See Alabaster and\nKeene s Cement. Also Marble Cement. 1. Take\nplaster of Paris, and soak it in a saturated solu-\ntion of alum, then bake in an oven, the same as\ngypsum is baked to make it plaster of Paris\nafter which grind the mixture to powder. It\nis then used as wanted, being mixed up with\nwater like plaster and applied. It sets into a\nvery hard composition capable of taking a very\nhigh polish, and may be mixed with various\ncoloring minerals to produce a cement of any\ncolor capable of imitating marble.\nThe Eny. Mech. gives these three recipes\n2. Melt together 8 parts of resin and 1 of wax;\nwhen melted, stir in 4 or 5 parts of plaster of\nParis. The pieces to be joined should be made\nhot.\n3. Procure a small piece of quicklime fresh\nfrom a newly burnt kiln, slake with a white of\nan egg, wash the fractured parts quite clean,\nand apply.\n4. Soak plaster of Paris in a saturated solu-\ntion of alum, bake in an oven, reduce it to pow-\nder, mix with wafer, and apply; it sets like\ngranite.\n5. Mix 12 parts of Portland cement, 6 parts of\nslate lime, 6 parts of fine sand and 1 part of\ninfusorial earth, and make up into a thick paste\nwith silicate of soda. The object to be cement-\ned does not require to be heated. It sets in\ntwenty-four hours, and the fracture cannot be\nreadily found.\n6. Make a thick mucilage of x oz. of gum ara-\nble, add 1}4 oz. dental plaster, and finally oz.\nfinely powdered quicklime; mix well. When\nrequired for use heat the marble.\n7. Coat the marble with linseed oil varnish\nthen apply the following cement: brick dust 10\nparts; litharge (elutriated), 1 part; linseed oil\nvarnish, 2 parts work up into a stiff putty.\n8. Mix litharge and freshly burned lime in the\nproportion 20 to 1. Make into a putty with q. s.\nof linseed oil.\n9. Lac colored to imitate the marble; may\nbe mixed with marble dust passed through a\nsilken sieve.\n10. W. F. Reid gives the following details for\nit. Begin with the raw gypsum in lumps of mod-\nerate size, burning them at the usual. tempera-\nture (below red heat). The solution of alum\nshould contain 1 part of this salt in 10 parts of\nwater. There is ho difficulty in dissolving this\nquantity if the water be previously heated and\nthe alum coarsely pulverized. By immersing\nthe lumps of burnt gypsum in this solution\nwhile they are still warm, and leaving them in\nit for about fifteen minutes, they will become\nthoroughly saturated with the liquid. They\nshould then be allowed to drain and again\nburnt, but this time at a red heat. Gypsum\nwhich has been treated in this way forms, when\npulverized, a slow-setting cement which ulti-\nmately attains great hardness, and has fre-\nquently been used for making paving tiles,\nespecially in Italy.\n11. Into a solution of chloride of zinc, sp. gr.\n1*490 to 1*652, is introduced Z% of borax or sal\nammoniac; when this is dissolved, oxide of\nzinc, which has been subjected to a red heat, is\nadded, till the mass attains the desired consist-\nence. This cement becomes as hard as marble,\nand may be used for moulding.\n12. 12 parts Portland cement, 6 parts slaked\nlime, 6 parts fine sand, 1 part infusorial earth,\nand mix into a thick paste with silicate of soda.\nThe object to be cemented need not be warmed.\nThe cement sets in twenty-four hours, and the\nfracture can then hardly be detected. The\ncemented portions are harder than the rest, and","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0092.jp2"},"93":{"fulltext":"Cements.\n81\nCements.\nthe fracture cannot by any chance be reopened.\nPolytech. Centralblatt.\nMarine Glue.— Caoutchouc, 1 oz.; genuine\nasphaltum, 2 oz.; benzole or naphtha, q. s. xhe\ncaoutchoiic is first dissolved by digestion and\noccasional agitation, and the asphaltum is grad-\nually added. The solution should have about\nthe consistency of molasses.\nMarteaux Robert s Cement.— Pyrolusite\nfinely powdered 100 parts, graphite 12 parts,\nwhite lead 5 parts, red lead 5 parts, clay 3 parts.\nAfter sifting and mixing, 1 part of boiled lin-\nseed oil to each 7 parts of the mixture are\nadded. Make into a paste, heat and pound re-\npeat the operation several times.\nMartin s— This is manufactured in the same\nway as Keene s, only carbonate of soda or car-\nbonate of potash is used as well as alum, and\nthe burning is carried on at a higher temper-\nature.\nMason*.— I. 20 lb. clean river sand, 2 lb. lith-\narge, 1 lb. quicklime, sufficient linseed oil to\nform a thin paste. Used for joining fragments\n-of stone.\n2. Gad s.— 3 parts well dried and powdered\nclay, 1 of iron oxide, mixed together and made\ninto a stiff paste with boiled oil. Used for work\nrequired to harden under water.\n3. For Grotto Work.— Commonest sealing-\nwax.\n4. An excellent cement for foot walks, and\n:for all uses which require exposure to the\nweather or to dampness, is described in Der\nPraktische Maschinen-Constructeur. 1 It is\nmade by thoroughly stirring Portland cement\nor good hydraulic lime into a warm solution of\nglue, so as to make a thick paste, and applying\nIt immediately. In three days it acquires ex-\ntraordinary hardness and tenacity. It is an\nexcellent cement for joining the procelain heads\nto the metal spikes which are used as orna-\nmental nails,\n5. Fahnejelm recommends a mixture of 75\nparts of carefuDy washed chalk and ^5 parts of\nwashed kaolin, to be first calcined to red heat,\nand afterward ground. The powder is then\nsnow-white, or, if the heat has been too great,\nit has a bluish shade. Either alone, or with a\nsmall percentage of gypsum, it makes an excel-\nlent hydraulic cement.\n6. 1 part yellow Botany Bay gum, 1 part brick\ndust, melted together. For stoneware.\n7. 60 parts chalk. 20 parts lime, 20 parts sait, 10\nparts Barnsey sand, 5 parts iron filings, 5 parts\nclay; ground together, and calcined. Beale s.\n8. 3 parts clay, lpart slaked lime mixed, ex-\nposed for three hours to full red heat, and\nground to powder. Bruyere s hydraulic.\nMassiaVs Cement.— Melt rubber with 10 to\n20$ tallow or beeswax. Gradually add finely\npounded quicklime. Used to cover bungs.\nMastic Cement.— Y. Mastic cement is used for\nmoulding ornaments, etc. Reduce all materials\nto fine powder. Quartz sand, 60 pts.; limestone\n.20 pts.; litharge, 10 pts.; linseed oil, 7 pts.\n2. Powder slaked lime 30 parts; sand 17^£\nparts; litharge V/* parts. Knead to a stiff\nmass with 3^ to 5 parts old linseed oil, or lin-\nseed oil varnish may be used. Work thorough-\nly in a mortar with a pestle.\nMeerschaum, Cement for— 1. Take some garlic\nand crush it in order to form a kind of dough,\nrub over the broken pieces of meerschaum with\nit and reunite them by pressing very closely,\nbind them with iron wire according to the\nstrength of the pieces, and finally boil them\nfor half an hour in a sufficient quantity of milk.\nCasein and quicklime cements apply here.\n2. Dissolve casein in a solution of water glass\n(silicate of soda) and stir into it calcined mag-\nnesia and use at once. Casein is pi-epared by\nallowing perfectly skimmed milk to stand until\nit curdles, when the casein is filtered out and\nwashed on the filter. To simplify above a little\nfresh cheese may be boiled in water and mixed\nwith slaked lime and ashes, using 10 parts\ncheese, 20 parts water, 2)4 parts lime, and 2 parts\nwood ashes.\nMetallic Cement.— 1. From 20 to 30 parts of fine-\nly divided copper, obtained by the reduction of\noxide of copper with hydrogen, or by precipi-\ntations from solutions of its sulphate with zinc,\nare made into a paste with oil of vitriol, and 70\nparts of mercury added, the whole being well\ntriturated. When the amalgamation is com-\nplete the acid is removed by washing with\nboiled water, and the compound allowed to\ncool. In ten or twelve hours it becomes suffi-\nciently hard to receive a brilliant polish, and to\nscratch the surface of tin or gold. By heat it\nassumes the consistence of wax, and, as it does\nnot contract by cooling, it is recommended by\na noted chemist for dentists 1 use for stopping\nteeth. This is a splendid cement for attaching\nto the surface of wood, glass, metal and porce-\nlain.\n2. The following recipe for a metallic cement\nfor repairing broken stone is given by Prof.\nBrune, of the School of Fine Arts. It was used\nin the restoration of the colonnade of the\nLouvre, of the Pont Neuf and of the Conserva-\ntoire des Arts et Metiers. It consists of a pow-\nder and a liquid. The Powder.— 2 parts by\nweight of oxide of zinc, 2 parts of crushed\nlimestone of a hard nature, and 1 part of\ncrushed grit, the whole intimately mixed and\nground. Ocher in suitable proportions is added\nas a coloring matter. The Liquid.— A saturated\nsolution of zinc in commercial hydrochloric\nacid, to which is added a part, by weight, of hy-\ndrochlorate of ammonia equal to i that of\nthe dissolved zinc. This liquid is diluted with\nof its bulk of water. To use the cement, 1\nlb. of the powder is to be mixed with 2}4 pt. of\nthe liquid. The cement hardens very quickly\nand is very strong.\nMetals, to Cement. See also Iron Cement and\nLitharge Cement.\nCasein, Cement for.— Mix with water quartz\nsand (elutriated), 5 parts casein, 4 parts lime\n(slaked), 5 parts.\nAny fibrous material can be stuck to metal,\nwhether iron or other metal, by a mixture com-\nposed of good glue dissolved in hot vinegar\nwith y% of its volume of white pine pitch, also\nhot. This composition, it is said, will give a\nsure and certain result.\nMetal Letters on Glass, Marble, Wood, etc., Ce-\nment for Fastening.— I. Copal varnish, 30 parts;\nlinseed oil varnish, 10 parts oil of turpentine,\n10 parts glue, 10 parts. Place the mixture in a\nwater bath, to dissolve the glue, then add 20\nparts slaked lime.\n2. Copal varnish, 15 parts; drying oil, 5 parts;\nturpentine. 3 parts. Melt in a water bath, and\nadd 10 parts slaked lime.\n3. Into melted resin, 180 parts, are stirred\nburnt umber, 30 parts; calcined plaster, 15 parts;\nboiled oil, 8 parts.\n4. Rosin, 4 to 5 parts; wax, 1 part; colcothar,\n1 part; the whole melted together. A little\npowdered plaster is often added.\n5. Sandarac or galipot varnish, 13 parts; boiled\nlinseed oil, 5 parts; turpentine, 2% parts; es-\nsence turpentine, 2% parts; marine glue, 5 parts;\npearl white, 5 parts; dry carbonate of lead, 5\nparts; mixed.\n6. Copal or lac varnish, 15 parts; drying oii, 5\nparts; India rubber or gutta percha, 4 parts;\ncoal oil, 7 parts; Roman cement, 5 parts; plaster,\n5 parts.\n7. Copal or rosin varnish, 15 parts; turpentine,\n2M parts; essence turpentine, 2)4 parts; fish\nisinglass (in powder), 2 parts; iron filings, 3 parts;\nocher or rotten stone, 10 parts. These cements\nare much used for h xing metallic letters to glass,\nmarble, or wood. The two following are par-\nticularly good for uniting brass and glass:\n8. Caustic soda, 1 part; rosin, 3 parts; plaster,\n3 parts; water, 5 parts; the whole is boiled. This\ncompound hardens at the end of half an hour;\nthe hardening may be retarded by replacing","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0093.jp2"},"94":{"fulltext":"Cements.\n82\nCements.\nthe plaster by zinc white, white lead, or slaked\nlime.\n9. Fine litharge, 2 parts; white lead, 1 part;\ncopal, 1 part; boiled linseed oil, 3 parts; the\nwhole is triturated together. Dissolve by heat.\n10. For joining metallic surfaces where solder-\ning is inconvenient, recourse may be had to a\ncomposition formed in the following way Pure\nand finely divided copper, such as that obtained\nby the reduction of sulphate of copper with\nzinc clippings, 20 to 36 parts, according to the\ndegree of hardness desired in the cement, dis-\nsolved in a sufficient quantity of sulphuric acid\nto make a thick paste; with this is incorporated,\nby trituration in a mortar, mercury, 70 parts.\nThe mass is soft, but hardens at the end of some\nhours. For use it is heated to 212° F. (100° C),\nand powdered in an iron mortar heated to 302° F.\n(150° C); it then assumes the consistence of wax,\nand is harder in proportion, as it contains more\ncopper.\nMetal, Cement for.— Melt over a water bath 30\nparts copal varnish, 10 parts drying oil, 6 parts\nturpentine; when melted add 20 parts slaked\nlime.\nMetal and Rubber, Cement for.— Powdered\nshellac is softened in ten times its weight of\nstrong water of ammonia, whereby a transpar-\nent mass is obtained, which becomes fluid after\nkeeping some little time without the use of hot\nwater. In three or four weeks the mixture is\nperfectly liquid, and, when applied, it will be\nfound to soften the rubber. As soon as the am-\nmonia evaporates the rubber hardens again— it\nis said, quite firmly— and thus becomes imper-\nvious both to gases and to liquids. For cement-\ning sheet rubber, or rubber material in any\nshape, to metal, glass, and other smooth sur-\nfaces, the cement is highly recommended.\nMetal Sheets, Thin, to Cement.— Dissolve isin-\nglass, cut fine, in warm water, and add a little\nnitric acid. If more acid is used than is neces-\nsary the cement will not dry.\nMetal, Linseed Oil Cement for.— Linseed oil and\nwell slaked lime are made into a paste. Great\npressure must be used.\nMetal to Porcelain, Glass, etc.— Dissolve good\nglue in water, heat and add }4 as much linseed\nand varnish and J4 as much Venice turpentine\nas the amount of glue used.\nMica, Cement for.— A colorless cement for\njoining sheets of mica is prepared as follows\nClear gelatine is softened by soaking it in a little\ncold water, and the excess of water is pressed\nout by gently squeezing it in a cloth. It is then\nheated over a water bath until it begins to melt,\nand just enough hot proof spirit (not in excess)\nstirred in to make it fluid. To each pint of\nthis solution is gradually added, while stirring,\n34 oz. of gum ammoniac and oz. of gum\nmastic previously dissolved in 4 oz. of rectified\nspirit. It must be warmed to liquefy it for use\nand kept in stoppered bottles when not re-\nquired. This cement, when properly prepared,\nresists cold water.\nMicroscope Cement.— Put into a bottle 2 parts\nof isinglass and 1 part of gum arabic, cover\nthem with proof spirit, cork the bottle loosely,\nand place it in a vessel of water, and boil it till\na thorough solution is effected, when it must be\nstrained for use. This is a highly valuable ce-\nment for many purposes, and is used for mount-\ning opaque objects for the microscope.\nMinerals, Fossils, etc.— 1. Use best fish glue\n(hot) and tie well.\n2. Starch, J4 oz. white sugar, 1 oz. gum ara-\nbic, x 4 oz. Dissolve the gum in a little hot\nwater, and the sugar and starch, and boil until\nthe starch is cooked.\nMohr s.— Equal parts of pulverized brick and\nlitharge are made into a paste with linseed oil.\nAfter application a little fine sand is dusted\nover the lute, and it is dried in the oven.\nMortar. See Mortars.\nMuirhead s Cement.— 3 lb. Portland cement, 3\nlb. of sharp sand, 4 lb. of blacksmith s ashes, 4\nlb. of resin. Melt the resin and stir the other\ningredients in.\nNaturalists Consists of mucilage of gum\narabic, thickened with starch powder or farina,\nwith the addition of a little lemon juice. Some-\ntimes the mucilage is used alone. This cement\nis employed by naturalists, for mounting speci-\nmens; by artificial flower makers; by confec-\ntioners, to stick ornaments on their cakes, etc.\nNickel, Cementing Labels on.— Dissolve 40 parts\ndextrin in 50 of water, 2 of glycerine, and 1 of\nglucose, and heat.\nOil Cements are useful, but require a long time\nto harden. See also linseed oil, litharge, Serbat s\nand Stephenson s cement.\nOil Cement for Steam Pipes.— 1. Barytes (heavy\nspar) finely powdered, 8 parts; graphite, 6 parts;\nlime (slaked), 3 parts; ^boiled linseed oil, 3\nparts.\n2. 100 parts red lead, 250 parts white lead, 200\nparts pipe clay. Mix with boiled oil.\nOil Proof Cement.— The hardest cement is\nproduced by triturating 50 grm. (grammes, not\ngrains) of litharge with 5 cubic centimeters of\nglycerine if more glycerine is used, the mass\nhardens much more slowly and imperfectly.\nThe small proportion of glycerine, however,\nmakes it impracticable to prepare large quanti-\nties of the cement at a time. For this purpose\nit will be necessary to take more glycerine.\nThe most favorable results are obtained\nby adding 2 volumes of water to 5 volumes of\nglycerine (s. g. 1*240). Six cubic centimeters of\nthis b quid are incorporated with 50 grm. of\nlitharge. This mass requires a shorter time\nthan any other proportions to produce a hard\ncement, ten minutes only being required to\nharden moderately, while after two hours it\nbecomes harder than any mixture containing\nglycerine and litharge alone but after a few\ndays the latter compound (prepared without\nwater) overtakes the former in hardness, and\nremains so. If it is desired to produce a cement\nwhich rapidly hardens and still have consider-\nable firmness, it is advisable to use water with\nthe glycerine.\nCement, Opticians 1. Shellac softened with\nrectified spirit or wood naphtha. For fine\nwork.\n2. Beeswax, 1 oz.; rosin, 15 oz. Melt and add\nwhiting (previously made red hot, and still\nwarm) 4 oz.\n3. Rosin, 1 lb.; melt and add plaster of Paris\n(dry) 4 oz. The above are used to fix glasses,\nstones, etc., while polishing and cutting them.\nThe last is a very strong cement for rough\npurposes.\n4. 10 parts rosin, 2 parts shellac, 1 part rouge.\nMelt, mix, and add enough turpentine to make\nit tough, so as not to splinter under pressure\nfrom the thumb nail, at the working temper-\nature of the room.\nPaper {Parchment) to Cement.— Mix. ordinary\nglue with about 3% of potassium or ammonium\ndichromate in the dark. This may be used on\nthe paper, and after exposure to light becomes\nperfectly insoluble in boiling water. This glue\nhas been very largely used in Germany for join-\ning the parchment paper envelopes of pea\nsausages. The strips of paper joined by this\nglue are dried quickly and exposed to light till\nthe glue changes to a brownish color; they are\nthen boiled with water containing about 3% of\nalum till all the excess of alkaline dichromate is\nextracted, and then washed in water and\ndried.\nPaper, to Fasten to Stone.— Melt together\nequal parts of asphalt and gutta percha. Use\nhot. The surfaces to be joined should be per-\nfectly clean and dry.\nParabolic— Syn. Universal Cement. Curdle\nskim milk, press out the whey, and dry the curd\nby a gentle heat, but as quickly as possible.\nWhen it has become quite dry, grind it to pow-\nder in a coffee or pepper mill, and mix it with\nof its weight of finely powdered quicklime,\nand a piece of camphor the size of a pea, also","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0094.jp2"},"95":{"fulltext":"Cement*.\n83\nCements.\nreduced to powder, to every ounce of the mix-\nture. Keep it in wide mouth 1 oz. vials, well\ncorked. For use, make it into a paste with a\nlittle water, and apply it immediately.\nParian Cement is also made in the same way\nas Keene s, but with the use of a solution of\nborax, the biborate of soda, in place of alum.\nAll these cements arc capable of receiving a\nhigh degree of polish, and as they dry very\nrapidly can be painted over within a few days.\nParis Cement for Mending Shells and Other\nSpecimens.— Gum arabic, 5 parts sugar candy,\n2 parts; white lead, enough to color.\nPasteboard, to Cement.— Good pitch and gutta\npercha (about equal parts) are fused together,\nand to 9 parts of this are added 3 parts of boiled\noil and part of litharge continue the heat\nwith stirring until thorough union of the in-\ngredients is effected. This is applied hot or\ncooled somewhat, and thinned with a small\nquantity of benzole or turpentine oil.\nPeasley Cement. The exact composition of this\ncement is unknown, but it is without doubt a\nmodification of the Armenian cement, which\nsee.\nPax s Cement for Covering Buildings, etc.\nPowdered quicklime, 1 part; po wdered baked\nclay, 2 parts; mix, then add 1 part of freshly\nbaked and powdered gypsum to 2 parts of pow-\ndered baked clay, and after mixing well add\nthem to the former powder, and thoroughly in-\ncorporate the two. Used to cover buildings.\nIt is mixed up with water and applied like mor-\ntar. It acquires great hardness, and is*very\ndurable.\nPetroleum Cement.— 1. Dissolve 5 parts of shel-\nlac and 1 part of turpentine in 15 parts of pe-\ntroleum. This cement is fairly elastic.\n2. A cement particularly adapted for attach-\ning the brasswork to petroleum lamps is made\nby Puscher, by boning 3 parts resin with 1 part\n.of caustic soda and 5 parts of water The com-\nposition is then mixed with half its weight of\nplaster of Paris, and sets firmly in half to three-\nquarters of an hour. It is of great adhe-\nsive power, and not permeable to petroleum, a\nlow conductor of heat, and but superficially\nattacked by hot water. Zinc white, white lead,\nor precipitated chalk may be substituted for\nplaster, but hardens more slowly.\nPew s Cement.— Prep. Powdered quicklime, 1\npart; powdered baked clay, 2 parts; mix, then\nadd 1 part of freshly baked and powdered gyp-\nsum to 2 parts of powdered baked clay, and\nafter mixing well add them to the former pow-\nder and thoroughly incorporate the two. Used\nto cover buildings. It is mixed with water,\nand applied like mortar. It acquires great\nhardness and is very durable.\nPipes, Cement Used for Uniting Large.— 1.\n12 parts Roman cement, 4 parts white lead, 1\npart litharge, part rosin are pulverized and\nmixed. From 2Y 2 to 3 lb. of the mixture is\ntriturated with old linseed oil in which is boiled\n1 oz. resin.\n2. Equal parts of burnt lime, Roman cement,\npotter s clay and ordinary clay, separately well\ndried, finely ground, sifted, well mixed, and\ntriturated with linseed oil.\n3. 2 parts red lead, 5 parts white lead, and 3\nparts of the finest clay. Mix with boiled linseed\noil.\nPipes, Water, Glass Cement for.— This cement\nstands an intense heat. Mix 10 parts zinc\nwhite, 8 parts hydrolusite, and 2 parts sodium\nsilicate.\nPipes, Cement for.— A cement, impermeable\nby air and steam, and especially well adapted to\nuse for steam or gas pipes, is made of powdered\ngraphite 6 parts, slaked lime 3 parts, sulphate\nof lime 8 parts, and boiled oil 7 parts; well\nkneaded.\nOil, Cement for.— Litharge 5 parts, lime (air\nslaked) 2 parts, quartz sand 2 parts.\nWaterproof Cement for Cast Iron Pipes, etc.—\nTake equal weights, in dry powder, of burnt\nlime, Roman cement, pipe clay and loam, and\nknead the whole with about one-sixth the\nweight of linseed oil. The addition of more\nRoman cement improves the quality. See also\nred lead and rust cements.\nCement Pipe. The proper proportion for ce-\nment pipe is 1 of water cement to 3 of sand.\nGravel from the size of a pigeon s egg down is\nbetter than fine sand, and it must be perfectly\nclean and free from mould or vegetable matter.\nThe cement and sand must be thoroughly mixed\nbefore the water is added, and it must be used\nimmediately after mixing. The most common\ncause of failure is a poor quality of cement.\nPlaster Cement.— 1. Plaster of Paris, baked\nand ground, acquires great hardness and solid-\nity when left for twenty-four hours in con-\ntact with a solution of alum, and when, after\ndrying in the air, it is submitted to a second\nbaking.\n2. Still better results are obtained by em-\nploying an aqueous solution containing of\nborate and of cream of tartar the plaster,\nbaked and in fragments, is plunged into this\nsolution until it is saturated then it is calcined\nand pulverized.\n3. A mixture of silicate of potash, 100 parts\ncarbonate of potash, 27 parts and water, 500\nparts, may also be used.\n4. Plaster of Paris busts, etc., are best\nmended with shellac varnish or soluble glass.\nPlumber s Cement.— Black resin, 1 part brick\ndust, 2 parts well incorporated by a melting\nheat.\nPointing for Buildings.— Use equal parts\nhydraulic cement (Portland), lime, and fine\nwhite sand.\nPollack s Cement for Iron and Stone.— Take\nlitharge and red lead, equal parts mix thor-\noughly and make into a paste with concentrated\nglycerine to the consistency of soft putty fill\nthe crack and smear a thin layer on both sides\nof the casting so as to completely cover the\nfracture. This layer can be rubbed off if ne-\ncessary when nearly dry by an old knife or\nchisel. M. Pollack has used it to fasten the\ndifferent parts of a fly-wheel with great suc-\ncess. This cement is fire and water proof.\nPorcelain Letters, Cement for Attaching.— 8\nparts starch is mixed with 10 parts of chalk\n(finely powdered), by using equal parts of\nalcohol and water with the addition of 3 parts\nof Venice terpentine. See Glass above.\nPorcelain, Cement for.— See also Casein Ce-\nments. 1. Add plaster of Paris to a strong solu-\ntion of alum till the mixture is of the con-\nsistency of cream. It sets readily, and is said to\nunite glass, metal, porcelain, etc., quite firmly.\nIt is probably suited for cases in which large\nrather than small surfaces are to be united.\n2. Use thick white lead paint.\n3. Milk is coagulated with acetic acid and the\ncasein thus formed is washed well in water\nand then dissolved in a cold saturated solution\nof borax; a clear solution is thus obtained\nwhich is superior to gum arabic. For porcelain\nmix with finely powdered quicklime, apply to\nthe ware immediately, bind with cord and ex-\npose to gentle heat.— Dingier s Poly. Jl.\n4. Into a clear solution of gum arabic stir\nplaster of Paris use immediately water will\ndestroy the joint made by this cement.\n5. Yellow gum, 16 parts fine brick dust, 17\nparts mix.\n6. To Resist Heat.— China clay mixed with\nasbestos. Beat well before applying use no\nmore water than absolutely necessary. This\nis said to stand a high heat. Not recommended\nfor household use.\n7. Calcine oyster shells grind and sift reduce\nto the very finest powder with a muller, and\nbeat into a paste with white of an egg press\nthe broken pieces together firmly. This cement\nstands both heat and water.\n8. Stir the white of an egg into a stiff solution\nof glue.\nSulphur Cement for Porcelain.— Sulphur, 7\nparts; white pitch, 5 parts shellac (bleached)","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0095.jp2"},"96":{"fulltext":"Cements.\n84\nCements.\n1 part mastic, 2 parts gum elemi, 2 parts\nglass meal, 7 parts.\nPortland Cement derives its name from its\nsupposed resemblance to Portland stone when\nused as a stucco upon walls. The materials re-\nquired in its manufacture are chalk, or any\nother rich limestone, river mud, or clay, and\noxide of iron, the proportions in which these\nmaterials are mixed varying- at different works\n—from 65 to 80$ of limestone and 20 to 35% of\nclay and iron oxide, which are intimately mixed\nwith water in a mill, then dried slowly on hot\nplates, and afterward calcined in a kiln, and re-\nduced to fine powder. Before being used the\ncement should be kept for some months in a dry\nplace, as its cohesive strength is thereby in-\ncreased. It hardens rapidly when stirred up\nwith water, and possesses great cohesive power,\nwhich is diminished by the admixture of sand.\nWhen used as a stucco it can be mixed with 3\nor 4 parts of sand to 1 of cement, and the setting-\nthen proceeds more slowly than if pure cement\nis used. The sand must be perfectly free\nfrom loamy particles, otherwise it will not\nharden, but will crumble to pieces at the touch.\nIf painted over with oil color soon after it has\nbeen laid on a wall, it will peel off and form\nblisters— probably from the large proportion of\nquicklime it contains not being thoroughly\nslaked before it hardened. Some months, there-\nfore, should be allowed to elapse before paint is\napplied to it.\nPots and Pans, Cement for.— 2 parts of sulphur\nand 1 part, by weight, of fine black lead; put the\nsulphur in an old iron pan, holding it over the\nfire until it begins to melt, then add the lead;\nstir well until all is mixed and melted; then\npour out on an iron plate or smooth stone.\nWhen cool, break into small pieces. A sufficient\nquantity of this compound being placed upon\nthe crack of the iron pot to be mended, can be\nsoldered by a hot iron in the same way a tin-\nsmith solders his sheets. If there is a small hole\nin the pot, drive a copper rivet in it and then\nsolder it over with this cement.\nPrisms, Bisulphide of Carbon, Cement for.\nFor bisulphide of carbon prisms, Mr. Lewis M.\nRutherfurd, who has had much experience in\nthis subject, employs a cement o$ glue and\nmolasses. The surfaces must be perfectly\nclean; they are then warmed and dusted with a\nfine camel s hair brush, and placed in contact.\nA hot and fluid mixture of glue and molasses\nis then applied around the edges, and pene-\ntrates by capillary attraction. It must be left\na day or two to harden, before preparing the\nnext side. The ground stopper was also ren-\ndered tight by a little molasses. (See Silliman s\nAmerican Journal, March, 1865.) Marine glue\nis also employed, and we suppose that the\ncement from glycerine and litharge may be.\nPutty may be considered as cement. It is pre-\npared by mixing fine whiting with linseed oil\nor linseed oil varnish, the latter drying more\nquickly. The whiting should be passed through\na sieve, the meshes being 42 threads to the inch.\nIt should be dry before sifting, and be thor-\noughly incorporated with the oil, a tedious\noperation. Keep in oiled paper or under water.\nWhite lead is sometimes mixed with the putty.\nColor if desired with dry colors.\nSoft Putty.— 1. 10 lb. of whiting and 1 lb. of\nwhite lead, mix with the necessary quantity of\nboiled linseed oil, adding to it 3^ a giU of the\nbest olive oil. The last prevents~the white lead\nfrom hardening and preserves the putty in a\nstate sufficiently soft to adhere at all times, and\nnot, by getting hard and cracking off, suffering\nthe wet to enter, as is often the case with or-\ndinary hard putty.\n2. A very strong putty is made of boiled oil\nand whiting for exposed situations, as sky-\nfights, but is not adapted for keeping— it gets\ntoo hard.\n3. Putty for good inside work is improved bv\nadding white lead.\n4. Another putty which requires to be made\nas wanted (as it gets hard almost immediately;\nis composed of red lead in powder mixed with\nboiled oil and turpentine varnish, and is used\nfor fronts of houses or any place requiring a\nhard putty.\n5. Some manufacturers prepare an oil for the\npurpose by melting 20 lb. resin and mixing it\nwith 90 lb. linseed oil, the resin being used f or-\neconomy s sake.\n6. For some purposes a drying oil may be\nused with the whiting; this is made by mixing\n1 gal. linseed oil, 12 oz. litharge, 1 oz. sugar of\nlead, 1 oz. white vitriol simmer for some time,\nallow to cool, and when settled draw it off.\nFrench Putty.— 1. Kuban prepares this sub-\nstance by boiling linseed oil 7 parts with brown\number 4 parts, for two hours; 5V£ parts of chalk\nand 11 parts of white lead then added, and the\nwhole well mixed. This putty is very durable,\nand adheres well to wood, even though not pre-\nviously painted.\n2. Gum arabic 1 part, water 2 parts, potato\nstarch 4 parts\nFacing Putty.— Mix whiting, some white lead,\nand a small quantity of litharge. Then add a\nsmall quantity of drying oil. This putty is\nespecially good for stopping small flaws.\nIndestructible Putty.— Boil 4 lb. brown umber\nin 7 lb. of linseed oil for two nours; stir in 2 oz.\nof wax; take from the fire and mix in 5% lb. of\nchalk and 11 lb. of white lead and incorporate\nthoroughly. The latter operation is quite\nessential.— Science Record, 187k.\nImperishable Putty.— Boil together for two\nhours 33^ lb. linseed oil and 2 lb. brown umber.\nThen stir in 1 oz. of beeswax. Take off the fire\nand mix in 2% lb. of chalk; 5% lb. white lead.\nIron Putty.— The iron putty used for steam\njoints is made by mixing dry 2 parts of\na good metallic paint, 1 part litharge, 3 parts\nfine iron borings sifted, or for close joints, iron\nfilings. Add boiled linseed oil and mix to the\nconsistence of stiff putty.\nLime Putty, for Wood.— Rye flour, 10 parts\nslaked lime, 5 parts; linseed oil varnish, 5 parts;\number, q. s. to color.\nWood and Glue Putty.— Dissolve glue in\nwater, and add as much very fine sawdust as is\nrequired.\nPutty for Floors.— Litharge, 1 part; plaster\nof Paris, 2 parts; glue, 1 part; water, 8 parts;\ncement, 4 parts; sawdust, 2 parts; casein, 5\nparts; water, 30 parts; ammonia, 3 parts; burned\nlime, 3 parts.\nTo Soften Hard Putty.— 1. It is well known that\ncommon putty becomes exceedingly hard with\nage, which renders the removal of glass from\nsashes peculiarly difficult. A practical man\ntells us that he thinks himself lucky if he can\ntake out one pane out of three without break-\nage. It is stated, however, that the putty\nmay be softened by using a paste of caustic\npotassa, easily prepared by mixing the caustic\nalkali, or even carbonate of potash or soda, with\nequal parts of freshly burnt quicklime, which\nhas previously been sprinkled with water, so as\nto cause it to fall into powder. This is then\nmixed with water to a paste, and is spread on\nthe putty to be softened. Where one applica-\ntion is not sufficient it is repeated. In order to\nprevent the paste from drying too quickly, it is\nwell to mix it with less water, adding some soft\nsoap instead.\n2. Take 1 lb. of pearlash, 3 lb. of quicklime;\nslake the lime in water, then add the pearlash,\nand make the whole the consistency of paint.\nApply it to both sides of the glass and let it re-\nmain twelve hours, when the putty will be so\nsoftened that the glass may. be removed with\nease.\nSoft soap rubbed on pretty thick, and allowed\nto stand about twelve hours or more, will\nsoften putty so that it can be cut out quite\neasily with a knife.\nPutty for Stoves.— See also Stoves. 5 parts\nclay, 2 parts fine iron filings, 1 part peroxide","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0096.jp2"},"97":{"fulltext":"Cements,\nCeineuts.\nof manganese, part salt, part borax;\npulverize and mix thoroughly in a mortar.\nMake into a thick putty with water and use\nimmediately. Will set and harden with heat\nof the stove.\nWax Putty. For leaky casks, bungs, etc.\nYellow wax, 4 lb.; tallow, 2 lb.j spirits of tur-\npentine, 1 lb.; solid turpentine, G lb. Melt the\nwax and solid turpentine over a gentle fire\nadd the tallow. When melted take entirely\naway from the fire, add the spirits of turpen-\ntine, let it cool.\nPozzuolana Cement.— A kind of earth thrown\nout of a volcanoes, of a rough, dusty, granular\ntexture its most important property consists\nin making a cement when mixed with 3^ its\nweight of lime and water, which hardens very\nsuddenly, and is more durable under water than\nany other. Manganese is found to be a valuable\ningredient in water cements. 4 parts of gray clay\nare to be mixed with 6 parts of the black oxide of\nmanganese, and about 90 of good limestone, re-\nduced to tine powder, the whole to be calcined\nto expel the carbonic acid; when well calcined\nand cooled, to be worked into the consistence\nof a stiff paste, with 60 parts of washed sand.\nQuicklime Cement.— Dilute white of egg with\nits bulk of water and beat up thoroughly. Mix\nto the consistence of thin paste with powdered\nquicklime. Must be used immediately.\nRed Cement.— The red cement used for uniting\nglass to metals is made by melting 5 parts black\nresin with 1 part yellow wax, and then stir-\nring in gradually 1 part red ocher or Venetian\nred, in fine powder, and previously well dried.\nThis cement requires to be melted before use,\nand it adheres better if the objects to which it\nis applied are warmed.\nRed Lead made into a paste with boiled lin-\nseed oil is also used for cementing the joints of\nmetal pipes.\nResinous Cements are excellent in all cases\nwhere heat is not applied, and they are very in-\nexpensive.\nRetorts, Lute for.—l Lemery the chemist,\nused the following lute for stopping retorts,\netc.: Fine flour and fine lime, of each 1\nounce; potter s earth, y% ounce; make a\nmoist paste of these with white of egg, well\nbeaten up with a little water, and this will be\nfound to stop exceedingly close.\n2. This cement is used also in melting pots.\nSift brick dust and mix with equal quantity\nred lead, rub together with boiled linseed\noil, which is mixed with coarse sand to the\nstiffness of cement. In covering dishes apply\nthe paste, then sand. Heat for a long time.\n3. Rub freshly slaked lime into a concen-\ntrated solution of borax. Apply with a stiff\nbrush, allow it to dry. When heated, the glaz-\ning fuses.\n4. For large pots take 6 parts litharge 4 parts\nfresh burnt pulverized lime 2 parts white bole\nand mix with cold linseed oil.\nRice Cement. Rice cement, which is made\nby mixing rice flour intimately with cold water\nand then gently boiling it, forms a beautifully\nwhite preparation, and dries nearly trans-\nparent it is capable of bearing a very high\npolish, and is very durable; it is in every re-\nspect far before the common paste made with\nwheat flour or starch it may be formed, also,\ninto a plastic clay.\nRoadway Cement.— The first coat should be\nthree and a half inches thick, 7 parts of sharp,\ncoarse sand or fine gravel, to 1 part cement,\nthoroughly mixed in a box dry, then damp-\nened with water. Spread it on the ground in\nsections or squares. As soon as it is set, put on\nanother coat, 1 inch thick, of 1 part\ncement to 3 parts sharp sand. When that\nis set, for a finishing coat put half an inch\nthick of 1 part cement and 1 part sand.\nDo not drive over it for five days.\nRoman Cement.— This consists of pul vis Puteo-\nianus or pozzuolana, a ferruginous clay from\nPuteoli, calcined by the fires of Vesuvius, lime\nand sand, mixed up with soft water. The only\npreparation which the pozzuolana undergoes is\nthat of pounding and sifting but the ingredi-\nents are occasionally mixed up Avith bullock s\nblood and fat of animals, to give the com-\nposition more tenacity.\nRoman Cement.— Ordinary clay, 60 lb.; cal-\ncine and mix with 40 lb. lime recalcine the\nwhole.\nRoofs, Cement for.—l. Melt together in an\niron pot two parts by weight of common pitch\nand one part gutta percha. This forms a homo-\ngeneous fluid much more manageable than\ngutta percha alone. To repair gutters, roofs\nor other surfaces, carefully clean out of the\ncracks all earthy matters, slightly warm the\nedges with a plumber s soldering iron, then\npour the cement in a fluid state upon the\ncracks while hot, finishing up by going over the\ncement with a moderately hot iron, so as to\nmake a good connection and a smooth joint.\nThe above will repair zinc, lead or iron, and is\na good cement for aquariums.\n2. Take 4 lb. rosin, 1 pt. linseed oil, 2 oz. red\nlead, stir in fine sand until the proper consist-\nency is secured, and apply warm. This cement\nbecomes hard, and yet possesses considerable\nelasticity, is durable and waterproof.\nRubber Cements. Rubber cements are very\ncommon and very useful, but great care should\nbe taken in their preparation to guard against\nfire; they should not be prepared at night, as\nthe carbon bisulphide, naphtha, or chloroform\nis very inflammable. Vessels which are used to\ndigest the rubber should be closed and if possi-\nble put out of doors. If heat is required, use a\nsand or hot water bath on no account bring\nnear a fire.\nSee also Gutta Perclia Cements.\nRubber Cement.— 1. Digest caoutchouc, cut in\nfine shreds, with about 4 volumes of naphtha or\ncarbon bisulphide in a well covered vessel for\nseveral days.\n2. Cement for sticking on leather patches and\nfor attaching rubber soles to boots and shoes is\nprepared from virgin or native India rubber, by\ncutting it into small pieces or else shredding it\nup; a bottle is filled with this to about one-\ntenth of its capacity, benzine is then poured on\ntill about three parts full, but be certain that\nthe benzine is free from oil. It is then kept till\nthoroughly dissolved and of a thick consisten-\ncy. If it turns out too thick or thin, suitable\nquantities must be added of either material to\nmake as required.\n3. Cement used for repairing holes in rubber\nboots and shoes is made of the following solu-\ntion 1. Caoutchouc, 10 parts chloroform, 280\nparts. This is simply prepared by allowing the\ncaoutchouc to dissolve in the chloroform.\n2. Caoutchouc, 10 parts; resin, 4 parts; gum\nturpentine, 40 parts. For this solution the\ncaoutchouc is shaved into small pieces and\nmelted up with the resin, the turpentine is then\nadded, and all is then dissolved in the oil of tur-\npentine. The two solutions are then mixed to-\ngether to repair the shoe with this cement.\nFirst wash the hole over with it, then a piece of\nlinen dipped in it is placed over it as soon as\nthe linen adheres to the sole, the cement is then\napplied as thickly as required.\n4. Good rubber cement for sheet rubber, or\nfor attaching rubber material of any descrip-\ntion or shape to metal, may be made by soften-\ning and dissolving shellac in ten times its weight\nof water of ammonia. A transparent mass is\nthus obtained, which, after keeping three or\nfour weeks, becomes liquid, and may be used\nwithout requiring heat. When applied it \\yill\nbe found to soften the rubber, but when the\nammonia is evaporated it forms a kind ot hard\ncoat, and causes it to become both impervious\nto gases as well as liquids.\n5. A cement for uniting India rubber is com-\nposed as follows: 100 parts of finely chopped\nrubber, 15 parts of resin, 10 parts of shellac;\nthese are dissolved in bisulphide of carbon.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0097.jp2"},"98":{"fulltext":"Cements. 86\nCements.\n6. Another India rubber cement is made of\n15 grains of India rubber, 2 oz. of chloroform,\n4 drm. of mastic first mix the India rubber and\nchloroform together, and when dissolved, the\nmastic is added in powder. It is then allowed\nto stand for a week or two before using.\n7. Rubber Cement to Mend Boots.— Dissolve 1\ndrm. of gutta percha in 1 oz. of bisulphide of\ncarbon, filter through coarse filter paper, add\n15 gr. of pure rubber, rub the whole smooth\nwith a palette knife, taking care to do it\nquickly. If necessary, thin with bisulphide of\ncarbon. Keep it away from fire or light, as it\nis volatile and inflammable.\nRubber, Hard, to Cement.— Dissolve bleached\ngutta percha in carbon bisulphide. Cement,\nand when dry brush over carbon bisulphide in\nwhich sulphur has been dissolved.\nRubber, Cement to Mend. Equal parts of pitch\nand gutta percha are melted together and lin-\nseed oil is added, which contains litharge. Melt\nuntil all are well mixed, use no more of the lin-\nseed oil than necessary. Apply warm.\nRubber Shoes, Cement for.—2}4 parts India\nrubber are dissolved in 70 parts of chloroform\nby mastication. For the second solution melt\n2^2 parts India rubber with 1 part of resin,\npart of Venice turpentine is added, and lastly\n10 parts oil of turpentine. Mix the solutions.\nTo Fasten Hard Rubber to Metal. Make a thin\nsolution of glue, and gradually add pulverized\nwood ashes till you have a stiff varnish. Use\nthis cement hot.\nRubber (Hard) Cement for Mending. 1. Fuse\ntogether equal parts of gutta percha and\ngenuine asphaltum apply hot to the joint,\nclosing the latter immediately with pressure.\nSee Ammonia and Shellac Cement. No. 4 above.\nOil and Sulphur.— 1 of sulphur to 12 of oil\ngives a substance like molasses 4 to 12 of oil\na stiff substance like rubber. To be successful\nin making this compound, take an iron ladle,\nsuch as is used for the melting of lead, and fill\nit not more than full, and place it over a clear\nfire. Owing to a quantity of water being\nheld in the oil by the vegetable matter, it will\nbegin to seethe, and, if not closely watched,\nboil over into the fire. After a little time it\nwill subside, the surface remaining quite placid,\nwith now and then little flickers of smoke Sit-\ning across the surface. Your sulphur must be\neither roll brimstone or the crude sublimed, i.e.,\nnot washed or treated with acid. If the first,\nfinely powder it, and mix by degrees in the oil,\nstirring all the time until incorporated.\nRubber to Wood and Metal, Cement to Fasten.\n—As rubber plates and rings are now almost\nexclusively used for making connections be-\ntween steam and other pipes and apparatus,\nmuch annoyance is often experienced by the\nimpossibility or imperfectness of an air-tight\nconnection. This is obviated entirely by em-\nploying a cement which fastens equally well to\nthe rubber and to the metal or wood. Such\ncement is prepared by a solution of shellac in\nammonia. This is best made by soaking pul-\nverized gum shellac in 10 times its weight of\nstrong ammonia, when a slimy mass is obtained,\nwhich, in three or four weeks, Avill become\nliquid without the use of hot water. This\nsoftens the rubber, and becomes, after volatili-\nzation of the ammonia, hard and impermeable\nto gases and fluids.\nRust Cement.— Rust Cements for Water and\nSteam Pipes, Steam Boilers, etc.— 1. Make a\nstiff paste with 2 parts sal ammoniac, 35 parts\niron borings, 1 part sulphur and water, and\ndrive it into the joint with a chisel or, to 2\nparts of sal ammoniac and 1 part flowers of\nsulphur, add 60 parts of iron chips, and mix the\nwhole with water, to which part vinegar or a\nlittle sulphuric acid is added. Another cement\nis made by mixing 100 parts of bright iron fil-\nings or fine chips or borings with 1 part pow-\ndered sal ammoniac, and moistening with urine;\nwhen thus prepared, force it into the joint. It\nwill prove serviceable under the action of fire.\n2. Iron may be cemented in wood by drop-\nping in the recess prepared in the latter, a\nsmall quantity of a strong solution of sal am-\nmoniac. This causes the iron to rust, render-\ning it very difficult to extract. Additional rust\ncements will be found under Steam Cements\nbelow and also under Iron.\nSandstone, Cement for.— Clean sand, 10 parts;\nlead oxide, 1 part; ground lime, J^ part. Mix\nwith linseed oil.\nScheibler l s Cement.— Melt 1 part of wax and 3\nparts of shellac, and work into the mixture\nwhile still warm 2 parts of gutta percha cut\nfine.\nSclwttler l s Cement.— Plaster of Paris (freshly\nground), 12 parts, by weight cinders (sifted),\n8 parts; brick dust, 6 parts. Mix with water.\nSeal Engraveis Common resin and brick\ndust melted together. Use. To fix the pieces\nof metal while cutting, and also to secure seals\nand tools in their handles. It grows harder\nand improves every time it is melted.\nSerbaVs Linseed Oil Mastic— Lead sulphate, 6\nparts; mix with 1 part linseed; add gradually;\nadd 6 parts powdered pyrolusite.\nShellac.— 1. Simple shellac, made into sticks\nof the size of a lead pencil, is commonly sold\nfor a cement withstanding water, acids, oils,\netc. The objects to be cemented are first\nwarmed till they melt the shellac brought in\ncontact with them. This is very good to ce-\nment broken glass, porcelain, etc., especially\nas the objects are again ready for use imme-\ndiately when cold; but it is not adapted for\nflexible objects, as it cracks, and also will not\nwithstand heat or alcohol.\n2. When the gum called shellac is dissolved\nin alcohol or naphtha, a cement for uniting\nbroken glass, china, or stoneware is obtained.\nShells, Cement for. See Paris Cement.\nShoemakers Cement.— Dissolve gutta percha\nin chloroform to the consistency of honey.\nHeat the surfaces to which it is to be applied,\nand press together. See also gutta percha and\nrubber cements above.\nSiemens 1 Cement.— 12 lb. black iron rust or iron\nfilings, 100 lb. sulphur.\nSigns, Filling, Cement for.— Melt together in a\nclean iron pot 2 parts each of best asphaltum and\ngutta percha; stir well together, and then add\n1 part of gum shellac in fine powder. It may be\nused hot and mixed with smalt, vermilion or\nother pigment, if desired.\nSinger s Cement for Electrical Machines and\nGalvanic Troughs. 1. Melt together 5 lb. resin\nand lib. beeswax, and stir in lib.* red ocher,\nhighly dried and still warm, with 4 oz. plaster of\nParis, continuing the heat a little above 212°,\nand stirring constantly till all frothing ceases\nvery useful in electroplating and electrotyp-\ning. The following cement is especially adapted\nfor troughs.\n2. Resin, 6 lb.; dried red ocher, 1 lb.; calcined\nplaster of Paris, lb.; linseed oil, 34 lb- Used\nto cement the plates in voltaic troughs, to join\nchemical vessels.\nSlag Cement.— 1. Granulated slag is ground\nand mixed with lime and the mixture calcined\nand reground.\n2. Blast furnace slag is mixed in the follow-\ning proportions with lime and clay: blag,\n10 parts; lime, 25 parts; clay, 10 parts. Calcine.\nSodium Silicate Cement. See Soluble Glass\nCement below.\nSoft Cement— Melt yellow beeswax with its\nweight of turpentine and color with finely pow-\ndered Venetian red. When .cold it has the hard-\nness of soap, but is easily softened and moulded\nwith the fingers, and for sticking things together\ntemporarily it is invaluable.\nSoluble Glass Cements.— When finely pulver-\nized chalk is stirred into a solution of soluble\nglass of 30° B. until the mixture is fine and plas-\ntic, a cement is obtained which will harden in\nbetween six and eight hours, possessing an ex-\ntraordinary durability, and alike applicable for\ndomestic and industrial purposes. If any of","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0098.jp2"},"99":{"fulltext":"Cements.\nCements.\nthe following substances be employed besides\nchalk, differently colored cements of the same\ngeneral character are obtained\n1. Finely pulverized or levigated stibnite (gray\nantimony or black sulphide of antimony) will\nproduce a dark cement, which, after long bur-\nnishing with an agate, will present a metallic\nappearance.\n2. Pulverized cast iron, a gray cement.\n3. Zinc dust, so-called zinc gray, an exceed-\ningly hard gray cement, which, after burnish-\ning, will exhibit the white and brilliant appear-\nance of metallic zinc. This cement may be\nemployed with advantage in mending orna-\nments and vessels of zinc, sticking alike well to\nmetals, stone and wood.\n4. Carbonate of copper, a bright green ce-\nment.\n5. Sesquioxide of chromium, a dark green\ncement.\n6. Tbenard s blue (cobalt blue), a blue cement.\n7. Minium, an orange coloi-ed cement.\n8. Vermilion, a splendid red cement.\n9. Carbon red, a violet cement.\nWater Glass and Lime Cement.— Solution of\nwater glass, 20 parts; quicklime, 8 parts; whit-\ning, 80 parts. Used for flag pavement by mix-\ning with small sharp edged stones and stamping\nin moulds. Hardens slowly.\nWater Glass Cement with Zinc and Pyrolusite.—\nWater glass, 16 parts; pyrolusite, 64 parts; zinc\nwhite, 80 parts. Used for cementing the joints\nof pipes exposed to red heat. Hardens quickly\nand makes a close joint.\nWater Glass, Cement for, Porcelain and\nGlass.— Solution of water glass, 48 parts; elutri-\nated glass powder, 8 parts; elutriated powder\nof fluorspar, 16 parts. Stir together quickly.\nThe paste which is formed should be applied at\nonce. This cement hardens in a few days, so\nthat the article can be heated with safety.\nSoreVs Cement.— Mix commercial zinc white\nwith half its bulk of fine sand, adding a solu-\ntion of chloride of zinc of 1*26 specific gravity,\nand rub the whole thoroughly together in a\nmortar. The mixture must be applied at once,\nas it hardens very quickly. See also Zinc, below.\nSteam Boiler Cement.— 1. Mix 2 parts of finely\npowdered litharge with 1 part of very fine\nsand and 1 part of quicklime which has been\nallowed to slake spontaneously by exposure to\nthe air. This mixture may be kept for any\nlength of time without injuring. In using it a\nportion is mixed into paste with linseed oil, or,\nstill better, boiled linseed oil. In this state it\nmust be quickly applied, as it soon becomes\nhard.\n2. Dried and powdered clay, 6 lb.; iron filings,\n1 lb.; made into a paste with boiled linseed oil\nused for stopping cracks and leaks in boilers,\nstoves, etc.\n3. Litharge in fine powder, 2 parts very fine\nsand, 1 part; lime that has been allowed to\nslake spontaneously in a damp place, 1 mixed,\nand kept from the air made into a paste\nwith boiled oil, and used to mend cracks and\nsecure steam joints.\n4. Good linseed oil varnish ground with equal\nweights of white lead, oxide of manganese,\nand pipe clay.\n5. Dry, powdered clay, 1 part clean, sifted\niron filings, 2 parts acetic acid, sufficient to\nmake a paste.\n0. Dry, powdered clay, 8 to 10 parts iron fil-\nings, free from rust, 4 parts peroxide of man-\nganese, 2 parts sea salt, 1 part borax, 1 pai t\nwater, sufficient to make a paste.\n7. Sulphate of baryta, 1 part clay, 2 parts\nmade up with solutions of silicate of potash and\nborax it resists a very high temperature.\n8. Iron filings, free from rust, 50 parts flow-\ners of sulphur, 2 parts pulverized hydrochlo-\nrate of ammonia, 1 part these substances are\nmixed with water or mine, so as to make a solid\nand homogeneous paste, which is used in the\njoints of steam boilers. The lute swells, be-\ncomes very solid, and perfectly closes the\njoints.\n9. Iron filings, 4 parts loam, 2 parts pow-\ndered sandstone, 1 part made into a paste with\nsalt water becomes very hard on setting.\n10. A thick paste, composed of silicate of soda\nand iron filings the latter substance may be\nreplaced by a mixture, in equal parts, of pow-\ndered oxide of zinc and peroxide of manganese.\n11. Sand, 84 parts; Portland stone, 166 parts;\nlitharge, 18 parts; pulverized glass, 0*90 part;\nred lead, 45 part suboxide of lead, 0*90 part\nthe whole rubbed up with oil.\n12. Cement to stop steam leak Iron borings,\npowdered fine, 1 lb.; sal ammoniac in powder, 2\noz.; flowers of sulphur, 1 oz.; mix trie whole\nthoroughly dry. For use mix 1 part of the\nabove with 20 parts of flne iron borings, and\nmix with water until of the consistence of mor-\ntar. Use at once.\nStephenson s Oil Cement.— 1. Litharge, 10 parts;\nair slaked lime, 5 parts fine sand, 5 parts mix\nto a paste wth hot linseed oil. Use immedi-\nately.\n2. Litharge, 20 parts; slaked lime, 10 parts;\nsand, 10 parts linseed oil varnish, 3 parts.\nStickall.— This is simply a solution of potas-\nsium silicate. It forms a very valuable cement\nfor mending statuary. It suffices to brush the\nsurfaces with the solution, and to press them\nfirmly together.\nStieda s White Zinc Cement.— Hub up oxide of\nzinc with turpentine, and add, stirring continu-\nally for every drachm of zinc oxide, 1 oz. of a so-\nlution of dammar in turpentine, of the consist-\nency of thick sirup. This gives a white cement\nlike Ziegler s. For a red cement, take, instead\nof zinc, cinnabar, and take 2 drm. of the metal\nfor each ounce of the dammar solution. If the\ncement has become too thick with age, dilute\nwith turpentine, ether, or chloroform.\nStone. See also Metallic Cements.\nStone Cement.— River sand, 20 parts litharge,\n2 parts; quicklime, 1 part linseed oil to mix.\nStone Sidewalks, Artificial, Cement for.— En-\nglish Portland cement is generally preferred.\nProcure a sharp, light-colored sand, and wash\nit free from all particles of soft earth or soil\nalso some stone chips, gravel, and large stone.\nExcavate the sidewalk about 18 in. deep, and fill\nin the large stone to within 6 in. of the surface\nprepare a concrete made of the cement 1 pai*t,\nstone chips and gravel about 6 parts, and bed it\nin upon the stone bottom to within 2 in. of the\nsurface then prepare a concrete of the cement 1\npart and fine sand 2 parts, and lay it in up to the\nsurface, floating the surface with the cement at\npleasure. Finish by lining off into very regular\nblocks. A more economical sidewalk can be made\nby omitting the stone bed, but it will require a\ngood hard soil to lay it on, and then will not be\nso sure of being permanent.\nStonemason s Cement.— Clean river sand, 20\nlb.; litharge, 2 lb.; quicklime, 1 lb.; linseed oil,\nsufficient to form a thick paste. This cement is\napplied to mend broken pieces of stone, and\nafter a time it becomes exceedingly hard and\nstrong.\nStove Cement, for the Joints of Iron Stoves.\nMica, together with finely sifted wood ashes, an\nequal quantity of finely powdered clay, and a\nlittle salt. When required for use, add enough\nwater to make a stiff paste.\nCement for Closing Cracks in Stoves.— 1. This\ncement is prepared by mixing finely pulverized\niron, such as can be procured at the druggists 1\nwith liquid water glass to a thick paste, and\nthen coating the cracks with it. The hotter the\nfire then becomes the more does the cement melt\nand combine with its metallic ingredients, and\nthe more completely will the qrack become\nclosed.\n2. Take equal parts of sulphur and white lead,\nwith about part of borax incorporate them\nso as to form one homogeneous mass. When\ngoing to apply it, wet it with strong sulphuric\nacid and place a thin layer of it bet ween the two","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0099.jp2"},"100":{"fulltext":"Cement*.\nCements,\npieces of iron, which should then be pressed\ntogether. An excellent cement consists of\nglycerine and litharge stirred to a paste.\n3. Sand, 6 parts; iron filings, 5 parts; bone\nblack, 5 parts slaked lime, 6 parts glue water,\nq. s. See also Iron Cements and Putty.\nStratena. This well-known household cement\nis said to be prepared as follows 6 parts white\nglue are dissolved in 8 parts acetic acid; this\nsolution is added to another composed of 1 part\nFrench gelatine in 8 parts water. After mixing\nadd 1 part shellac varnish.\nSulphur or Brimstone Cement. Roll sulphur\nis frequently used alone as a cement for fasten-\ning iron bars in holes drilled in stone. The ad-\ndition of brick dust, sand or resin lessens its\nliability to crack. When the yellow color of\nbrimstone is an objection, a little graphite may\nbe mixed with it.\nTapes Insulating. See Insulating Cements.\nTemporary Cement. A temporary cement, to\nfix optical glasses, stones, jewelry, etc., on\nstocks or handles for the purpose of painting,\nrepairing, or ornamenting, is made by melting\ntogether at a good heat, 2 oz. of resin, 1 drm.\nof wax, and 2 oz.of whitening; with this applied\nto the article when heated, secure fixation may\nbe obtained, unfixed at pleasure by the same\nmeans, viz., heat.\nTerra Cotta, Cement for. Coat the terra cotta\nafter heating and apply the cement as soon as\npossible. The cement is made as follows: 10\nparts rosin, 10 parts yellow wax, 2 parts sul-\nphur. Melt these together and add 1 part each\nof hammer slag and quartz sand. Point up the\nedges of the joint with pounded terra cotta.\nTiles, to Stick to Iron. Use a gutta percha\ncement, made by melting together in an iron\npan 2 parts of common pitch and 1 part of gutta\npercha. Stir them well together until thor-\noughly incorporated and then pour the liquid\ninto cold water. When cold it is black, solid\nand elastic; but it softens with heat, and at 100°\nF. is a thin fluid. Also try bedding in plaster\nof Paris.\nCement for Tile Roofs. Dry sand and whiting\nequal parts; 25$ of litharge. Make of the con-\nsistency of putty, with linseed oil. This cement\nis not liable to crack when cold, or melt like tar\nor asphalt with the heat of the sun.\nTolu Balsam Cement. Tolu balsam, 2 parts\nCanada balsam, 1 part; saturated solution of\nshellac in chloroform, 2 parts. Add enough\nchloroform to bring the mixture to a sirupy\nconsistence. Carnoy finds this cement superior\nto all others. Used by microscopists.\nTeeth, Cements for the. Tooth cements are\nextensively used in England, but their use is\nnot advised. Consult a good dentist. See also\nSoreVs Cement.\nPhosphate Cement. 1. Concentrate pure\nphosphoric acid till semi-solid mix aluminum\nphosphate with it by heating. For use, mix\nwith basic oxide of zinc to the consistency of\nputty. The light oxide of zinc should not be\nused here, nor in making oxychlorides. The\ncement sets in two minutes.\n2. By calcining magnesium nitrate an oxide\nis made. This, when hydrated, forms a durable\ncement. When mixed with phosphoric acid it\nhardens at once, growing so hot as to burn the\nhand. As basic oxide of zinc forms with phos-\nphoric acid a slower-setting cement, the indi-\ncation is plain. I have used for pulp capping\nand temporary filling the following mixture:\nBasic oxide of zinc, 2 parts; oxide of magne-\nsium, 5 parts. Grind them together. For use,\nmix to a paste with sirupy phosphoric acid.\nThis sets in thirty seconds. 1\n3. Gutta Percha Stopping.— This is pure, un-\ncolored, native gutta percha. A small piece is\nsoftened in hot water, and at once applied. It\nanswers well for filling hollow teeth with cen-\ntral cavities, and is efficient and durable.\n4. Vienna Cement. Powdered asbestos made\ninto a paste with thick mastic varnish. Neither\nhard nor durable.\n5. Wirth s Cement.— levigated quartz made\ninto a paste with very thick mastic varnish.\nThe color is good, but it is not very durable.\n6. Mr. Evans Take of pure grain tin, 2 parts;\ncadmium, 1 part; beeswax, 1 part. Melt them\ntogether in a porcelain crucible at a heat not\nexceeding 600° F., and cast the alloy so as to\nform a small ingot, whicb, when cold, must be\nreduced to filings. For use, a small quantity of\nthese filings is formed into an amalgam with\nquicksilver, the excess of the latter is squeezed\nout through a piece of chamois leather, and the\namalgam at once applied to the tooth. This\ncement is recommended by Mr. Evans as very\ndurable and unobjectionable. Its color is inter-\nmediate between that of silver and tin, but it\nis said not to darken so readily as the simple\namalgam of those metals.\n7. Zinc Amalgam Dentist s Zinc— Pure zinc\nfilings, combined with twice their weight of\nquicksilver, a gentle heat being employed to\nrender the union more complete. It is best\napplied as soon as made. Color gray, often\nproves effective and durable.\n8. Poudre Metallique.— According to Mr. Red-\nwood, the article sold in Paris under this name\nis a triple amalgam of mercury, silver and am-\nmonium, with the latter in excess.\n9. Silica.— A mixture of levigated porcelain,\nplaster of Paris, and steel filings, in equal pro-\nportion, made into a paste with thick, quick-\ndrying copal varnish. It is only adapted to fill\ncentral cavities in the double teeth, as its color\nunfits it for the front ones.\n10. Taveare s.— This is powdered mastic mix-\ned with about )4 its weight of ether, and then\nwith sufficient powdered burnt alum to form a\nstiff paste. It must be kept in a closely stop-\npered bottle. It has little hardness and dura-\nbility.— Cooler/.\nTortoise Shell, Cement for.—l. Dissolve in 125\nparts alcohol 90$, 30 parts of sheUac, 10 parts\nmastic and 2 parts turpentine.\n2. Mastic, 15 parts; shellac, 45 parts turpen-\ntine, 3 parts; spirit of wine 90$, 175 parts.\n3. Gum mastic, 10 parts; shellac, 30 parts;\nturpentine, 2 parts spirits of wine 90$, 12a\nparts.\nTransparent Cement.— 1. According to Ding-\ngler s Polyteehn. Journal, a very strong, trans-\nparent cement, applicable to wood, porcelain,\nglass, stone, etc., may be made by rubbing to-\ngether in a mortar 2 parts of calcium nitrate, 25\nparts of water, and 20 parts of powdered gum\narabic. The surfaces to be united are to be\npainted with the cement, and bound together\nuntil completely dry.\n2. Pure, un vulcanized rubber, 75 parts; dis-\nsolve in 60 parts of chloroform, and 15 parts of\nmastic are added.\nTrees, Cement for.— The following cement is\nused to protect injured trees 2 parts of yellow\nocher wood ashes (sifted), 1 part white lead,\n10 parts Venice turpentine, 2 parts linseed\noil, q. s. to mix.\nTurner s Cement.— -1. H oz. rosin, oz. pitch,\n1 oz. beeswax melted together, sufficient fine\nbrick dust added to produce desired consist-\nence.\n2. 2 lb. rosin, 2 lb. Burgundy pitch, 2 lb. dried\nwhiting, 2 oz. yellow wax, melted and mixed to-\ngether.\n3. y lb. black rosin, 1 oz. yellow wax melted\ntogether, and poured into a tin canister.\n4. Use a mixture of rosin, turpentine and\nyellow wax, then add a little pulverized sealing\nwax. _\n5. Melt 1 lb. of rosin in a pan over the fire,\nand, when melted, add H lb. of pitch. While\nthese are boiling add brick dust until, by drop-\nping a little on a cold stone, you think it hard\nenough. In winter it may be necessary to add\na little tallow. By means of this cement a piece\nof wood may be fastened to the chuck, which\nwill hold when cool and when the work is fin-\nished it may be removed by a smart stroke with","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0100.jp2"},"101":{"fulltext":"Cements.\n89\nCements.\nthe tool. Any traces of the cement may be re-\nmoved from the work by means of benzine.\n6. When wanted for use, chip off as much as\nwill cover the chuck to the of an inch, spread\nit over the surface in small pieces, mixing it\nwithin of its bulk of gutta percha in thin slices\nthen heat an iron to a dull red heat, and hold it\nover the chuck till the mixture and gutta percha\nare melted and liquid stir the cement until\nit is homogeneous chuck the work, lay on a\nweight to enforce contact, leave it at rest\ntwenty minutes.\n7. The following is a very exceUent cement\nfor the use of turners and artisans in general\n16 parts of whiting are to be finely powdered\nand heated to redness, to drive off all the water\nwhen cold, this is mixed with 16 parts of black\nresin and 1 part of beeswax, the latter having\nbeen previously melted together, and the whole\nstirred till of uniform consistence.\nVegetable Cement.— 1. Mix gum arabic with\ncalcium nitrate, 1 part of the gum arabic to 10\nparts of the calcium, and use 10 parts of\nwater.\n2. Calcium nitrate, 2 parts 20 parts gum ara-\nbic (pulverized.; 25 parts water.\nVenice Cement.— It glue is mixed with J4 its\nweight of Venice turpentine, a cement is formed\nwhich will unite glass with metals or wood.—\nBuilding News.\nVulcanite, to Cement.— 1. Dissolve 1 part of\nsulphur and 3 parts pure caoutchouc in 6 parts\nalcohol and 100 parts bisulphide of carbon, and\nevapoi ate to the consistence of a thin paste.\nJoin the fractured edges with this, and heat the\nwhole to about 310° F., for four hours.\n2. Mix dry caoutchouc with its weight of\nflowers of sulphur, and thoroughly knead the\nmixture on a plate of warm metal. Heat the\nteeth to a temperature of about 212° F., join the\nfractured edges with a little of the caoutchouc\ndough, moistened with a drop or two of bisul-\nphide of carbon, and expose the whole to a tem-\nperature of about 200° F. for two hours. At\nthe expiration of this time, raise the tempera-\nture to 390°, and maintain it constantly at this\nfor four hours more. When cool, the joint will\nbe found firm, and may be trimmed with a\nsharp knife.\nWash Basins, Cement for.— Glass meal, 2 parts\nlitharge (elutriated), 2 parts; linseed oil var-\nnish, 1 part. Wet the powders slightly with the\noil, heat and gradually add the rest. Do not\nuse the basin for four days. Glass meal can\nbe made by heating glass and throwing in cold\nwater. Grind and elutriate.\nWater Cements.— 1. 100 parts slaked lime, 190\nparts brick dust, 160 parts sand, 50 parts black-\nsmith s dross, 50 parts powdered lime; mix with\nwater.\n2. 600 parts iron filings, 100 parts ignited sand,\n100 parts powdered slaked lime; mix with water.\nWaterproof Cements.— 1. Soak pure glue in\nwater until it is soft, then dissolve it in the\nsmallest possible amount of proof spirits by the\naid of gentle heat. In 2 oz. of this mixture dis-\nsolve 10 gr. of gum ammoniacum, and, while\nstill liquid, add y% dr. of mastic dissolved in 3\ndr. of rectified spirits. Stir well, and for use\nkeep the cement liquefied in a covered vessel\nover a hot water bath.\n2. A good waterproof cement maybe made by\nmixing glue 5, rosin 4, red ocher 3 parts, with a\nlittle water.\n3. Shellac, 4 oz.; borax, 1 oz.; boil in a little\nwater until dissolved, and concentrate by heat\nto a paste.\n4. 10 parts of carbon disulphide and 1 part\nof oil of turpentine are mixed, and as much\ngutta percha is added as will readily dissolve.\n5. Tar, 1 part tallow, 1 part fine brick dust,\n1 part the latter is warmed over a very gentle\nfire; the tallow is added, then the brick dust,\nand the whole is thoroughly mixed. It must be\napplied while hot.\n6. Good gray clay, 4 parts; black oxide of man-\nganese, 6 parts limestone, reduced to powder\nby sprinkling it with water, 90 parts; mixed,\ncalcined, and powdered.\n7. Manganese iron ore, 15 parts lime, 85 parts;\ncalcined and powdered.\nBoth six and seven require to be mixed with\na little sand for use thrown into water they\nharden rapidly.\n8. Fine, clean sand, 1 cwt.; powdered quick-\nlime, 28 lb.; bone ash, 14 lb. Beaten up with\nwater for use.\n9. Quicklime, 5 parts fresh cheese, 6 parts\nwater, 1 part. The lime is slaked by sprinkling\nwith the water thereupon it is passed through\na sieve, and the fresh cheese is added. The\nlatter is prepared by curdling milk with a little\nvinegar and removing the whey. The cement\nthus formed is very strong, but it requires to be\napplied immediately, as it sets very quickly.\n10. Fresh curd, as before, 1 part; quicklime,\n1 part; Roman cement, 3 parts. Used for\njoining stone, metals, wood, etc.\n11. A paste composed of hydraulic lime and\nsoluble glass.\n12. 1 part glue, 1 part black rosin, 34 part\nred ocher, mixed with least possible quantity\nof water.\n13. 4 parts glue; 1 part boiled oil by weight; 1\npart oxide of iron.\n14. Mix a handful of quicklime with 4 oz. lin-\nseed oil, thoroughly lixiviate the mixture, boil\nit to a good thickness, and spread it on tin\nplates in the shade. It will become very hard,\nbut it can be dissolved over a fire, like com-\nmon glue, and is then fit for use.\nYates 1 Waterproof (Old).— Glue, 4 oz.; isinglass,\n2 oz. Dissolve in ale over a slow fire, then add\nV/i oz. boiled linseed oil. When required for\nuse dissolve in ale. [This cement is from Mac-\nkenzie, and was once a great favorite.— Ed.]\nWhite Cement.— Mix in a well-stoppered bottle\n10 drm. chloroform with 12}^ drm. unvulcan-\nized caoutchouc in small pieces. The solution is\neasily effected, and, when finished, add 2±£ drm.\nmastic, and let the whole macerate from eight\nto ten days, shaking the mixture from time to\ntime, but without heat. A perfectly white and\nvery adhesive cement is thus produced. This\ncompound is made on the same principle as the\ncement greatly in vogue among florists for\nmaking permanent bouquets.\nWliite Lead Cement, Withstanding Heat and\nMoisture. Pure white lead, or zinc white,\nground in oil, and used very thick, is an excellent\ncement for mending broken crockery ware, but\nit takes a very long time to harden. It is well to\nput the mended object in some store room, and\nnot to look after it for several weeks, or even\nmonths. It will then be found so firmly united\nthat, if ever again broken, it will not part on the\nline of the former fracture.\nWollastoiVs White Cement for Large Objects.—\nBeeswax, 1 oz.; rosin, 4 oz.; powdered plaster of\nParis, 5 oz. Melt together. To use, warm the\nedges of the specimen and use the cement\nwarm.\nWliite Cement, Zeigler^s.— Composition un-\nknown. Is very much used on the Continent for\nmicroscopical use.\nWood, Resinom Cement for Coating.— This ce-\nment is fairly acid proof and resists alkalies.\nMelt 3 parts rosin, lpart asphaltum and 2 parts\nbrick dust. Use hot.\nWood, Cement to Stop Flaws or Cracks in.—\n1. Put any quantity of fine sawdust of the same\nkind of wood into an earthen pan, and pour boil-\ning water on it; stir it well, and let it remain for\na week or ten days, occasionally stirring it; then\nboil it for some time, and it will be of the con-\nsistence of pulp or paste; put it into a coarse\ncloth and squeeze all the moisture from it. Keep\nfor use, and, when wanted, mix a sufficient\nquantity of thin glue to make it into a paste;\nrub it well into the cracks, or fill up the holes in\nyour work with it. When quite hard and dry,,\nclean the work off, and, if carefully done, you\nwill scarcely discern the imperfection.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0101.jp2"},"102":{"fulltext":"Cements.\n90\nChalk.\n2. Make a paste of slaked lime, 1 part; rye meal,\n2 parts with a sufficient quantity of linseed\noil.\n3. Dissolve 1 part of best glue in 16 parts of\nwater, and when almost cool stir in sawdust\n(hardwood) and prepared chalk a sufficient\nquantity. Oil varnish thickened with a mix-\nture of equal parts of white lead, red lead,\nlitharge and chalk.\n4. A Hard Cement for. The f ollowing cement\nwill be as hard as stone when dry, and will\nadhere firmly to wood. Melt 1 oz. of resin\nand 1 oz. of pure yellow wax in an iron pan,\nand thoroughly stir in 1 oz. of Venetian red,\nuntil a perfect mixture is formed. Use while\nhot. When cold it is as hard as stone.\n5. Oil Cement f or.— 1 part pulverized slaked\nlime 2 parts rye flour mixed with linseed oil\nvarnish. It takes any desired color and polish.\nWood to Metals.— A good cement. An excel-\nlent cement for uniting articles of wood with\nmetals, glass, stone, etc., may be obtained\nby dissolving glue in boiling water and making\nit of the same consistence as that of cabinet-\nmakers glue then add, while stirring, a suffi-\ncient quantity of wood ashes as to produce a\nvarnish-like mixture. While hot, the surfaces\nto be united must be covered or coated with\nthis glue compound, and pressed together.\nWhen cold the surfaces will be found firmly\nunited, and much force will be needed to sepa-\nrate them again.\nWood to Stone, Cement for Fastening.— Melt\ntogether 4 parts pitch and 1 part wax, and add\n4 parts brick dust or chalk. It is to be warmed,\nfor use, and applied thinly to the surfaces to be\njoined.\nZeiodite,— Is a cement composed of 10 parts\nsulphur and 12 parts glue or pumice.\nZinc Cement.— Used by microscopists. Dis-\nsolve 1 oz. gum dammar in 1 oz. of oil of tur-\npentine by the aid of heat rub up 1 drm. zinc\noxide with an equal quantity of oil of turpen-\ntine (adding the latter drop by drop) into a\ncreamy mixture perfectly free from lumps or\ngrit and then mix the two fluids, which must\nbe stirred well together, and strained through\nfine muslin wetted with turpentine. Blue or a\ngreen pigments may be worked up with this if\ndesired.\nZinc White Cement.— German formula: 1, mas-\ntic; 2, dammar; 3, sandarac; 4, Venetian tur-\npentine 5, turpentine 6, benzol 7, zinc white.\n1, 2, and 3, powdered, are mixed in a well-corked\nbottle with 4, 5 and 6 shake well occasionally\nafter several days filter, and triturate in a mor-\ntar with zinc white in quantity sufficient. Dilute\nif necessary with benzol.\nZinc White.— English formula 1, gum dam-\nmar; 2, gum mastic; 3, benzol. Dissolve pow-\ndered 1, 2 and 3 in a well-corked bottle when\ndissolved, filter and mix caret ully in a mortar\nwith zinc white.\nZinc Ornaments, Cement for.— Water glass\nhaving fine whiting and impure zinc (zinc gray)\nstirred in forms an excellent cement and re-\nceives a high polish.\nZinc Cement, Oxychloride of.—l. This cement\nor mastic is prepared by mixing 1 part 5f the\nfinest pulverized glass with 3 parts of oxide of\nzinc thoroughly calcined (made from the car-\nbonate), which is afterward kept in well stop-\npered glass vials. Separately 1 part of borax is\ndissolved in the smallest possible quantity of\nwater. It is mixed with a solution of chloride\nof zinc of 1*5-1 6 sp. gr., and is kept in this state\nin well closed vials. To use this mastic, enough\nof the powder is mixed with some of the liquid\nto form a putty, which hardens readily until\nlike stone. Under the name of Paris dental\ncement a similar preparation is sold in the\npharmacies which has even been used for fill-\ning hollow teeth. This composition can serve\nexcellently for many other purposes; for ex-\nample, to attach to each other different parts\nof technical, scientific, or domestic appliances,\nwhere a tenacious, quickly hardening cement is\nrequired.— L Elettricita. See also Teeth.\n2. That in most general use for ordinary plug-\nging is composed of oxide of zinc, 5; silex, 2;\nborax, 1 moistened with a solution of 1 oz. zinc\nchloride in 6 drm. water. Where it is to be\nused as a capping or temporary filling over\nfreshly exposed pulps the fluid should be zinc\nchloride, 1 oz.; water, 1 to 2 oz.; making a solu-\ntion of only sufficient strength to cause the\nmixture to set. The cavity having been cleaned,\nci^eosote should be applied to the exposed pulp,\nand the oxychloride introduced in a semi-fluid\nstate, and protected by a rubber dam from the\nfluids of the mouth until properly hardened\n(half an hour usually suffices). It is advisable\nto allow several days to intervene for the more\nthorough solidification of the cap prior to the\nremoval of the excess of material and final\ninsertion of the metal stopping.\nCerates, Ointments and Salves.— These\nare unctuous substances, composed mainly of oil\nor lard mixed with wax, spermaceti or resin in\ndifferent proportions. Cerates are used prin-\ncipally for a dressing or kind of plaster, and are\nof firmer consistency. Ointments are mainly\nintended to be rubbed upon the surface, and\nordinarily melt or become soft at the tempera-\nture of the body. The cerates contain a greater\namount of wax, from which (cera, wax) they\nderive their name. The tendency of this class\nof preparations to become rancid may be largely\nobviated by dissolving in them a little gum\nbenzoin or benzoic acid. Ointments made with\nthe fixed oils, with suitable proportions of wax,\nsuet or cocoa butter, are less liable to rancidity\nthan those made with lard.\nVaseline, Simple Cerate.— Vaseline, 16 oz.; white\nwax, 8 oz. Melt with a gentle heat. This cerate\nkeeps well, is of medium consistency, and can\nbe used all the year round, not being too hard\nfor cold or too soft for warm weather.\nResin Cerate.— Vaseline, 16 oz.; yellow wax, 4\noz.; resin, 10 oz. Melt as resin cerate, U. S. P.\nThis offers no advantage over lard cerate, and\nrequires constant stirring on cooling, as the\nresin tends to separate readily.\nPomatum Camphoratum.— This is a strong\nsolution of camphor in lard and wax. With\nvaseline it is inalterable. The formula is as\nfollows Camphor, 6 dr.; white wax, 6 dr.; vase-\nline, 14 dr.\nSimple Cerate.— White wax, 141b.; sweet oil, }4\nlb.; water, 3 oz.; melt and stir until cold.\nCerise.— A coal tar color, of the rosaniline\ngroup, obtained from magenta residues. It is\nmuch used in compound colors.\nCeromel.— VanMons. Beeswax, loz.; honey\n4oz.; melt together and stir until cold. An ex-\ncellent application to irritable ulcers, abraded\nsurfaces, sore nipples, etc.\nCetine.— Syn. Pure Spermaceti. Dissolve\nspermaceti in boiling alcohol, and collect the\ncrystals that deposit on cooling. Prep. Bright\npearly crystals melts at 120° sublimes at 670°.\nCIxslIIh*— Camphorated.— Camphor, 1 oz.; pre-\ncipitated chalk, 15 oz. Prepared chalk may be\nused in lieu of precipitated chalk. Less white\nand velvety, but cleans the teeth better than\nthe softer article.\nColored Chalk for Tailors Use.— Knead to-\ngether ordinary pipe clay, moistened, and\nultramarine for blue, finely ground ocher for\nyellow, burnt ocher for red, etc., until they are\nuniformly mixed roll out into thin sheets,\ncut, and press into wooden or metallic moulds\nwell oiled to prevent sticking, and allow to dry\nslowly at ordinary temperature, or at a very\ngentle heat.\nPrecipitated Chalk. This is prepared by\nadding a solution of carbonate of soda to a\nsolution of chloride of calcium (both cold), as\nlong as a precipitate forms. This last is well\nwashed with pure water, and dried out of the\ndust, as the last. The refuse, sulphate of","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0102.jp2"},"103":{"fulltext":"Chameleon.\n91\nCheese.\nlime 1 of the soda water makers, which is\npoisonous in quantity, is often sold for it by\nthe druggists. Pure chalk is wholly soluble in\nvinegar, and in dilute acetic, hydrochloric, and\nnitric acid, with effervescence. Sulphate of\nlime is insoluble in these menstrua.\nPrepared Chalk.— Syn. Creta. Rub 1 lb. chalk\nwith sufficient water, added gradually, until\nreduced to a very fine powder then put this\ninto a large vessel with water, agitate well, and,\nafter a short interval, pour off the supernatant\nwater, still turbid, into another vessel, and let\nthe suspended powder subside. In the same\nway shells are prepared, after being first freed\nfrom impurities, and washed with boiling\nwater.\nChameleon Pictures.— Put into small\nbottles, say 2 drachm, some bromide of copper,\nchloride of cobalt, and acetate of cobalt in\nsolution. Label distinctly.\nDirections.— Draw a scene on paper with\nbromide of copper. The trees stretching across\nthe sky, and the snow-covered ground, may be\nchanged to vernal beauty by heat. This is\ndone by painting in the grass, foliage, etc., in\nmuriate of cobalt, and the blues— of the sky\nand water— in acetate of cobalt. These tints\nwill be invisible until held before the fire.\nChampagne, See Wines and Cider*\nChaps.— The effect of cold is to diminish the\ncaliber of the cutaneous bloodvessels by pro-\nducing contraction of their coats. Hence there\nis a lessened supply of blood to the skin and a\nlessened nutrition, accompanied by a decreased\nsecretion of the cutaneous glands. The de-\nficient secretions must be replaced by an out-\nward application. The following f ormula will\nbe of service\n1. White wax, 1 part; borax, 3 parts; juice of\nbitter almonds, 1 part; oatmeal water, 3 parts.\n2. Milk, 1 part; chalk, 2 parts; glycerine, 1\npart.\n3. Spe-.-maceti, 2 parts; white wax, 1 part;\nglycerine, 1 part; chalk, 3 parts; oatmeal water,\n2 parts.\n4. Chaptal s Water, for Chapped Breasts.—\nSulphate of alumina, 1 drm.; sulphate of zinc,\noz.; borate of soda, 4 grn.; rose water, 6 oz.\nCracked Hands.— Various receipts are given\nfor this, as f ollow. 1. Try the following oint-\nment: Camphor, 60 grn.; boric acid, 30 grn.;\nlanoline, white vaseline, of each oz.; to make\nan ointment.\n2. Anoint your hands with glycerine after\nwashing and while they are still damp. If used\nwithout some water it has a drying tendency.\nVaseline is no good.\n3. Mix a powdered ball of sal-prunel with 2 oz.\nof vaseline, and rub well in.\n4. Pomatum for Chapped Lips.— The follow-\ning is from the Druggists Circular: Lard, 16\nparts; cacao oil, 24 parts; spermaceti, 8 parts;\nyellow wax, 3 parts; alcanna root, 1 part. The\nsubstances are fused for a quarter of an hour\nat a gentle heat, then strained through a cloth\nand mixed with oil of lemon, oil of bergamot,\nof each part, oil of bitter almonds part, when\nthe mass is poured into suitable vessels to cool.\nChartreuse. See Liquors.\nChayavra.— A plant of the madder family,\ncapable of dyeing similar colors. Abundantly\nused in India, but not met with in European\nmarkets.\nCheese, Cheese Coloring.— Roll annatto 1\npart, potassium carbonate 1 part; digest 1 day\nin 10 parts water. Filter, add water if neces-\nsary.\nCheese Makers, Notes for.— Cheese Fac-\ntnrits and their Surroundings.— 1. The present,\nnot next week, will be the best time to see that\nall the drainage facilities of the factory are\nadequate and in good working order.\n2. Whey runs, spouts and tanks should be\nput into such order that leaking will be pre-\nvented.\n3. If there be a leakage anywhere from floors,\nspouts or tanks, which is not immediately pre-\nventable, provision should be made at once for\nthe drainage of the waste, if only by shallow\nopen trenches. A liberal supply of lime and\ngypsum should be spread around such places.\nDon t fail to secure a barrel or two of each, for\nuse during the hot weather.\n4. If the factory buildings are not painted\nand will not be painted, get them whitewash-\ned at once. If you cannot get that done by\nthe proprietors or managers, get permission\nand do the rest yourself. A whitewashed curing\nroom of imperfect construction can be kept 10°\ncooler in summer than one not whitewashed.\nIf the cheese become injured, through excess\nof heat, neither the buyers nor the patrons will\nwhitewash your reputation then, whether the\nblame belongs to you or not.\n5. Make the surroundings of the factory neat\nand tidy. Plant a few trees and a great many\nflowers.\n6. While keeping the outside of the premises\nas creditable to your taste and neat habits as\npossible, make the inside to reflect still more\nyour aversion to everything untidy and dirty.\nGive every part of the factory a thorough\ncleaning and keep it in a sweet state all summer.\n7. Before the curing room contains any cheese,\nfumigate it by burning some sulphur mixed in\nalcohol. That will help to prevent the growth\nof mould on the outside of the cheese.\n8. The leisure hours of May, before the large\nflow of milk is received, should be employed\nputting all the apparatus, appliances, utensils\nand machinery into the best of working order.\n9. Be sure that the making room floor is so\nwell constructed and supported that it will\nnot shake or vibrate during the coagulation\nof the milk.\nMilk and Making.— 1. Look out for leeky\nflavors in the milk. Don t put such milk into\nthe vat with that of the other patrons. If you\nhave time, make it up by itself, and send the\ncheese from it to the patron who supplied that\nmilk, for his private use.\n2. Make provision for keeping a short record\nof each day s work, of the exceptional treat-\nment of every vat and of the comparative\nquality of the cheese from each vat, before they\nare shipped.\n3. Milk sours readily and rapidly for a num-\nber of weeks after the period of lactation in the\ncows begins. Hence milk seldom requires to be\nripened for setting during May.\n4. Use enough rennet to coagulate the curd\ninto a state fit for cutting, in from IT to 20\nminutes, at from 82° to 88° Fah.\n5. Cut it rather early, slowly and very care-\nfully.\n1 6. Use the horizontal knife first.\n7. Afterward allow the curd to settle until\nwhey comes over nearly the whole surface.\n8. Then begin to cut with the perpendicular\nknife.\n9. Immediately after the cutting is completed,\nbegin to stir the mass slowly and continuously,\nuntil the curd is cooked.\n10. Heat should not be applied until 10 min-\nutes after the stirring is begun.\n11. The heating should be effected gradually,\nat the rate of about 1 degree for every 4 or 5\nminutes until 98° Fah. is reached.\n12. Draw most of the whey early, and so\nguard against being caught unprepared for the\nrapid development of acid.\n13. Don t dip the curd until the presence of\nacid is discernible by the hot iron test. Sweety\nflavors result from too early dipping in May.\n14. After dipping the curd, stir it gently and\nkeep it at a temperature above 94°.\n15. Don t attempt close matting, high piling\nor packing of the curd. See that the whey is\nseparated from it.\n16. When it begins to feel slippy and smells\nlike fresh-made butter, it should be put through\nthe cutter or grinder.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0103.jp2"},"104":{"fulltext":"Cheese.\n92\nChemicals.\n17. Acid develops so rapidly that care must be\ntaken to keep the treatment well in advance of\nthe change in the curd.\n18. After grinding- or cutting, stir for 10 or\n15 minutes before salting.\n19. Apply salt at a rate of about 1% lb., early\nin the month, to 2 lb. per 1,000 lb. of milk during\nthe last ten days, varying the quantity slightly\naccording to the condition of the curd as to its\nmoisture.\n20. Begin to put the curd in the hoops within\n20 minutes after the salt is stirred in.\n21. Use only pure water in bandaging.\n22. Guard against the formation of edges or\nShoulders from the hoop followers being too\nsmall. Apply the pressure gradually until the\nwhole power through the long lever is used,\nafter four hours.\n23. Leave the press cloths on, and turn the\ncheese in the hoops every morning. Let no\ncheese leave the press room until the shape is\nsymmetrical and the finish neat.\n24. Don t press the scaleboards on the ends of\nthe Cneese.\n25. When the press cloths are removed, use\nhot clean whey oil or butter, into which has\nbeen dissolved a teaspoonf ul of soda per cupful\nof oil.\n26. Try to keep the temperature of the press\nroom above 60° Fah.\n27. The curing room should be kept at a tem-\nperature continuously between 65° and 70° F.\n28. Provide strong, smooth boxes ol the exact\nsize.\n29. Stencil the weight of the cheese in neat\nfigures on the side of every box.— Jos. W. Rob-\nertson, Dairy Commissioner.\nCheese Making.— It is quite easy to make\ncheese on a small scale. The operation is as\nfollows: Place your milk in a tin vessel, and\nplace this in a larger one filled with water, so\nthat in heating it over a fire it cannot burn the\nmilk. The heat required is only 82° Fah.,\ntherefore in very hot weather it may be neces-\nsary to cool the water outside the vat with ice,\nso as to cause the milk to attain this tempera-\nture. Then the milk is exposed to the action\nof the so-called rennet. This is the lining of\none of the stomachs of the calf, and possesses\nstrong digestive powers, especially for milk,\nwhich it coagulates very rapidly; even an in-\nfusion or preparation of this membrane pos-\nsesses the same property, and is often used in-\nstead. The quantity required is best learned\nby experience; but when using good liquid\nrennet, the small quanity of of 1% is suffi-\ncient, or a drachm for every gallon of milk.\nThis liquid rennet is thoroughly stirred into\nthe milk, and left alone for 20 minutes, when\nthe curd is settled. The supernatant liquid,\nthe whey, is then separated and the curd cut\nup in small pieces; then it is heated for about\nan hour to 98°, and continually stirred. When\nthoroughly cooked the remaining whey is sep-\narated. As long as the curd sticks together\nthere is whey present, but as soon as it crum-\nbles when pressed in the hand, it is ready to be\nstrained and salted, requiring 34 of 1% of the\nmilk used, or about 3 drachms of salt f or*every\ngallon of milk. The curd is then left to cool,\nladled into a galvanized iron hoop, and pressed.\nAfter an hour s pressure, the mass, which now\nlooks like a cheese, is taken out, bandaged, re-\nplaced under the press, and left there under\ncontinual pressure for about 18 hours. Then\nthe cheese is cured, which consists in dress-\ning it with the skimmings of the whey, color-\ning the outside with some annatto, and keeping\nit in a well ventilated room at a temperature\nof about 60° or 70°, and turning it around every\nday for a few weeks. As to the question if it will\npay on a small scale, the expense of this manu-\nfacture is estimated to amount to 10 or 12 cents\nper pound. Using all the milk of five or six\ncows, it costs nine cents, while the largest\nfarmer cannot reduce this cost below eight or\nseven cents. All this is outside of the value of\nthe milk used. The large factories, however,\nestablished in the States of New York and\nMassachusetts, who make cheese for the farm-\ners, or buy their milk, have by proper machinery\nreduced this cost to only 2 cents per pound,\nand it is of course impossible to compete with\nthem if you intend selling your cheese to deal-\ners. If, however, you keep a little cheese store,\nand sell all you make to consumers chiefly, it\nmay pay. But it is doubtful if you cannot as\ncheaply buy cheese from the large manufactu-\nrers as make it yourself on a small scale. The\nwhey can be utilized in making sugar of milk,\nas is done in Switzerland but it appears that\nin our cheese manufactories it is not used for\nany such purpose, but returned to the farmers\n(who bring their milk) in the proportion of two\ngallons of whey to three of milk. The farmers,\nuse the whey to feed their hogs.\nCheltenham Salts.— Glauber salts, Epsom\nsalts, common salts, equal parts, powder. Mix*\nDose oz.\nEffervescing Cheltenham Salts.— Tartaric acid,\ndried, 25 parts tartrate of iron, 1 part seidlitz\nsalt, 120 parts; mix. Dose, a teaspoonful in a\nglass of water.\nChemic.— A name given to the acid extract\nof indigo, unmixed with salts or soda. In some\nplaces, the name given to bleaching liquor and\nbleaching powder.\nChemicals and Drugs, to Pack for\nExport.— The following suggestions will be\nfound of practical value 1. Salts should be\nput in stoppered glass bottles or packed in\ncasks, if sent in large quantities. Casks used\nfor hygroscopic salts should be lined with oil\ncloth or parchment paper. Salts should never\nbe packed in tin boxes or in paper only.\n2. The glass stoppers of all bottles contain-\ning either liquids or dry substances should be\ngreased with a little vaseline in order to avoid\nany difficulty in removing them.\n3. Parts of plants, such as leaves, roots, etc.,\nshould be packed in sacks, and these again in\ncases very delicate drugs in tin boxes. Vege-\ntable powders should be packed in hermetically\nclosed glass bottles or tin boxes. Drugs which\noccupy much space should be pressed as much\nas possible before being packed, especially if\nthe shipping freight is calculated according to\nthe bulk of the goods.\n4. Boxes and cases should be lined with zinc,\nor where this is too expensive a strong and good\noil cloth will usually be sufficient.\n5. Although the utmost care is necessary in\npacking, yet packing materials, smch as hay,\nstraw, etc., should be used as sparingly as possi-\nble, as duty has usually to be paid for the\nweight of these as well as for the goods them-\nselves.\n6. Cases should be secured by iron bands, and\nit is always desirable that the weight and\nvolume of cases should be as small as possible.\n7. Acids, caustic or inflammable substances,\nmust be packed according to the regulations of\nthe different railways by which they are trans-\nmitted prior to shipment. As a rule stone bot-\ntles are best for acids and ammonia and glass\nor tin vessels for volatile substances. All these\nshould be closed by corks saturated with paraf-\nfine, and then wrapped in sail cloth, which,\nwith the string securing it, should also be\nsoaked in paraffine.\n8. Acetic acid may be safely conveyed from\nplace to place in carboys of 5 to 10 gal. capacity.\n9. Liquor ammonia should never be put into\niron vessels.\n10. Vessels containing volatile substances\nshould never be quite filled.\n11. As acids and caustic and inflammable sub-\nstances are conveyed on the decks of sailing\nvessels only, the cases containing them should\nbe well closed, and the address, mark, number,\netc., be such as will resist sea water.\n12. Liquids should not be packed in the same\ncase with dry substances.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0104.jp2"},"105":{"fulltext":"Chemical.\n93\nChilblains.\n13. Valuable or expensive chemicals, such as\n■ethereal oils and essences, should be packed in\nstrong tin vessels and closed with corks satura-\nted with paraffine as before described.\n14. The weights and measures of the country\nto which the goods are sent should always be\nused, to avoid loss and inconvenience.\n15. Besides observing these rules for packing,\nconsignors of goods should be thoroughly ac-\nquainted with the customs tariffs and regula-\ntions of the countries to which they are sending-,\nas pecuniary loss and inconvenience may occur\nfrom ignorance of them. For instance, if a case\ncontains various substances, the duties on\nwhich are different, it is usual in some tariffs to\ncalculate the duty of the whole of the contents\nof the case or at least of the packing materials\nat the highest rate. The importance of packing-\ntogether goods upon which the customs tariffs\nare similar is self-evident from this.\n16. In cases of urgency small quantities of any\nsubstance suitable for such transmission, e. g.,\nquinine, antipyrine, salicylic acid, etc., may be\nsent as patterns without value, and thus avoid\nthe delay caused by the customs office.\nChem«Nomenclature. See Nomencla-\nture.\nChemical Reagents. See Reagents.\nCherry Cordial. See Iiiquors.\nCherry, Wild.— To )4 gal. sirup, add J4 oz. ar-\ntificial essence of black cherry and U oz. fruit\nacid solution. This is improved by the extract\nof wild cherry. It contains tannic acid and\nshould not be placed in iron.\nChilblains.— A chilblain is an inflammation\nof the true skin. There are three degrees:\nFirst, patches of red skin, generally swollen,\nand which itch second, the skin of a purple\ncolor, and surrounded by blots or vesications\nthird, ulceration or sloughing. Causes, etc.:\nChilblains are due to the local action of heat\nfollowing cold. The skin of the toes and sides\nof the feet is generally attacked. Treatment.\nPreventive.— Keep the feet dry and warm; if\ncold, do not warm them at the fire or place them\nin hot water, but lave them with cold water, and\nthen rub them with dry, cold towels. Chil-\nblains most frequently attack those who are\ndebilitated, in health, although, of course, it is\nnot confined to them; hence constitutional\ntreatment is one of the most powerful meas-\nures. Remedial.— 1. Warm fomentations, and\nsubsequent rubbing with liniments of turpen-\ntine, camphorated spirit or tincture of can-\ntharides, 3 drm.; soap liniment, 9 drm.\n2. Decoction of poppy capsules, 1 oz.; hot\nwater, 2 oz. If there be much discharge of\nmatter apply bread poultices, and when it\nceases, or the inflammation subsides, use creo-\nsote ointment. If a chilblain be much in-\nflamed, it is imperative that it be protected\nfrom friction of the boot.\n3. A small quantity of yellow soap is dis-\nsolved in very little water; then methylated\nspirit is added to just thin it a little, then add,\nwhile hot, tincture of iodine drop by drop,\nstirring it the while when it begins to change\ncolor there is enough. Let get cold, and apply\nnight and morning, letting it dry on. It is\nonly good while the spirit is in it. So it don t\nkeep very long. Do not use if the chilblain is\nbroken.\n4. Equal parts of tincture camphor com-\npound and tincture belladonna, to be rubbed\niu night and morning.\n5. A saturated solution of salt in warm water\nis also good.\n6. Local faradization of the parts is also\ng-ood.\n7. Melt together in a suitable vessel 3 oz. bees-\nwax, 3 oz. Venice turpentine, 8 oz. lard, and 1 pt.\nsweet oil. Stir these well together and raise the\ntemperature till the mixture simmers; then\nallow to cool. This should be applied to the\nfeet on a piece of cloth when going to bed. A\nsure protection against this irritating ailment\nis found in good, dry woolen clothing for the\nfeet.\n8. A correspondent of the London Lancet\nrecommends a solution of sulphate of copper (4\ngrn. to the oz.) as an application for chilblains.\nHe has found that to succeed when everything\nelse has failed to effect a cure.\n9. L Unwn Medicale recommends the follow-\ning application Oxide of zinc, 2 parts tannic\nacid, 1 part glycerine, 10 parts balsam of Peru,\n8 parts; camphor, 4 parts.\n10. According the Revue Medico-Photogra-\nph ique, the following is a very convenient\neconomical, and efficacious application for chil-\nblains and chaps: 1 Alcohol (85°), 100 parts;\nglycerine, 25 parts carbolic acid, 1 part.\nCamphor Balls, Camphor Cakes, Chap Balls,\nC dlblain Balls, etc.— A popular skin cosmetic\nand preventive of chapping and chilblains, par-\nticularly of the hands.\n1. Take spermaceti, 2 oz.; white wax (pure),\n2 oz. almond or olive oil, 34 pt-; melt them\ntogether by a gentle heat, add of camphor (cut\nsinall), 1 oz.; stir until it is dissolved, and\notherwise proceed as directed under almond\ncakes.\n2. Take clarified suet, 1 lb.; spermaceti, 3\noz.; white wax, 2 oz.; camphor, 1 oz.; as before.\nCamphor balls are used in the same way as\nalmond balls.\nLotions for Chilblains.— I. Take sal ammoniac\n(crushed small), 1 oz.; glycerine (Price s), l^oz.;\nrose water, 8 oz.; agitate them together until\nsolution is complete. An elegant and effective\npreventive of chaps and chilblains, as well\nas a remedy for the last before they break also\nfor roughness of the hands produced by cold.\nThe affected or exposed parts are moistened\nwith the lotion night and morning. Elder\nflower water, camphor julep, or even distilled\nor clean soft water, may be substituted for the\nrose water at will.\n2. Take of sal ammoniac, 1 oz.; glycerine, 1\noz.; rum (good, strong), }4 Pt.; camphor (pow-\ndered), ldrm.; agitate them together frequently\nfor some hours. Very serviceable used as the\nlast.\n3. Take sal ammoniac, V/% oz.; vinegar (good,\nstrong), ji pt.; dissolve. Serviceable for un-\nbroken childlains used as No. 1. Its efficacy is\nincreased by subsequently rubbing the parts,\nwhen dry, with a little simple ointment or oil,\nor cold cream, or pomatum.\n4. Take tincture of catechu, 2 fluid oz.; honey\n(best), oz.; water, 7 oz.; mix. Used for chaps\nand chilblains, whether the latter be broken or\nnot; as No. 1.\n5. Dr. Grave s Chilblain Preventive. Take\nsulphate of copper, 1 drm.; water, 3 oz.; dissolve.\n6. Linnaeus s Remedy for Chilblains.\nTake hydrochloric acid (sp. gr. 1*16), 1 oz.;\nwater, 11 oz.; mix. For unbroken chilblains;\nas Nos. 1 or 3.\nLiniments for Chilblains.— 1. Take of soap\nliniment, 2 oz.; tincture of cantharides, 1 oz.;\noil of cajeput, 13^ drm.; agitate them well to-\ngether. Useful for unbroken chilblains. To\nbe applied twice or thrice daily, with friction.\n2. Take of oil of turpentine (best), J4 pt.;\ncamphor (crushed small), 1 oz.; oil of cajeput,\n2 drm.; mix, and agitate till solution is com-\nplete. Use, etc., as the last.\n3. Lejeune s Liniment, Lejeune s Chilblain\nBalsam.— Take camphor (small), 1 drm.; iodide\nof potassium, 5 drm.; tincture of benzoin,\nfluid oz.; solution of diacetate of lead, 1 fluid\noz.; proof spirit (made with rose water), 2J/6 oz.;\nmix, dissolve, and add a warrn solution of curd\nsoap, 134 oz., made with proof spirit (as above),\n2}4 oz.; and at once bottle it. Use, etc., as\nNo. 1.\n4. Morton s Chilblain Lmiment.— Take calo-\nmel, 1 drm.; camphor (powdered), 1 drm.; oil\nof turpentine, 2 drm.; cocoa nut oil, 2 drm.;\nspermaceti ointment, 4 drm. Mix in a warm\nmortar, and triturate until cold. Use, etc., as\nNo. 1.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0105.jp2"},"106":{"fulltext":"Chilli Vinegar,\n94\nCider,\n5. Vance s Chilblain Cream.— Take oint-\nment of nitrate of mercury, 1 oz.; camphor\n(powdered), 1 drm.; oil of turpentine, 2 drm.;\nolive oil, 5 drm.; mix, with a gentle heat, in a\nWedgwood ware mortar, and triturate until\ncold. Use, etc., as No. 1.\nOintments for Chilblains.— 1. Take made mus-\ntard (best, very thick), 2 drm.; glycerine\n(Price s), 1 drm.; spermaceti cerate, 13^ drm.;\nmix in a slightly warmed mortar, and triturate\nuntil cold. For unbroken chilblains to be\napplied night and morning.\n2. Take gall nuts (in very fine powder), 1 drm.;\nspermaceti cerate, 7 drm.; mix add of glyce-\nrine (Price s), 2 drm.; and rub the whole to a\nuniform mass. An excellent application to\nobstinate broken chilblains, particularly when\nused as a dressing. When the parts are very\npainful, 1 oz. of compound ointment of galls\nunguentum gallee compositum, L. Ph.)\nmay be advantageously substituted for the\ngalls and cerate ordered above.\n3. Cottereau.— Take acetate of lead, 1 drm.;\ncamphor (in powder), 1 drm.; cherry laurel\nwater, 1 drm.; tar, 1J^ drm.; lard, 1 oz.; mix as\nbefore.\n4. Devergie.— Take creosote, 12 drops; Gou-\nlard s extract, 12 drops extract of opium, 2\ngrn.; lard, 1 oz.; mix.\n5. Giacomini s. Take lead acetate, 2 drm.;\ncherry; laurel water (distilled), 2 fluid drm.;\nlard (hard), 1 oz.; mix.\n6. Linnaeus.— Take spermaceti ointment,\n2% oz.; balsam of Peru, 1 drm.; mix, with a\ngentle heat when cooled a little, add of hy-\ndrochloric acid, 2 fluid drm., and triturate until\ncold. For unbroken chilblains.\nChilli Vinegar, See Vinegar,\nChimneys, Lamp, to Prevent from\nCracking.— Put the chimneys into cold water\nand gradually heat it until it boils, then let it as\ngradually cool.\nChina, Cement for. See Cements.\nChina, Gilding on. See Gilding.\nChloralum.— Aluminum chloride sp. gr.\n115. This is an impure, aqueous solution. Used\nas a disinfectant.\nChlorodyne.— The following formula is\nfrom Baily s Physician s Pharmacopoeia\nHydrochlorate of morphia 4 gr.\nChloroform 48 min.\nRectified ether 32\nspirit 32\nDilute hydrocyanic acid 32\nTincture of Indian hemp 32\ncapsicum 24\nOil of peppermint, English 3\nHydrochloric acid, pure 4\nPowdered tragacanth 2 gr.\nMolasses, dark green 3 drm.\nDistilled water, to loz.\nDr. Brown s Chlorodyne contains 5 parts of\nconcentrated muriatic acid and 10 parts each of\nether, chloroform, tincture of Cannabis indica\n(Indian hemp;, and tincture of capsicum, 2 parts\neach of morphine and hydrocyanic acid, Impart\noil of peppermint, 50 parts simple sirup, 3 parts\neach of tincture of hyoscyamus and tincture of\naconite.\nChocolate,— Spanish Chocolate.— 1. Caracas\ncocoa, 10 lb.; sweet almonds, 1 lb.; sugar, 3 lb.;\nvanilla, V/i oz.\n2. Caracas cocoa, 8 lb.; island cocoa, 2 lb.;\nwhite sugar, 10 lb.; aromatics, as above.\n3. Island cocoa, 7 lb.; farina q. s. to absorb the\noil. Inferior.\nVanilla Chocolate.— A variety of French or\nSpanish chocolate, highly flavored with vanilla.\nThe following proportions have been recom-\nmended\n1. Caracas cocoa, 7 lb.; Mexican vanilla, 1 oz.;\ncinnamon, y oz.; cloves, 3.\n2. Best chocolate paste, 21 lb.; vanilla, 4 oz.;\ncinnamon, 2 oz.; cloves, y% drm.; musk, 10 gr.\nThe vanilla used in making chocolate is\nreduced to powder by rubbing it with a little\nsugar before adding it to the paste.\nFrench Chocolate.— The proportions used for\nthe best description are said to be 2 beans of\nvanilla and 1 lb. of the best refined sugar to\nevery 3 lb. of the choicest cacao nuts.\nPurgative Chocolate.— M. Giraud proposes a\npreparation made as f ollows\nGrammes.\nCacao, powdered and freed from oil. 50\nSugar, powdered 100\nCastor oil..., 50\nVanilla, powdered q. s.\nMake into tablets. The oil should be incor-\nporated with the cacao and the sugar and\nvanilla added. The ingredients must be well\nworked up upon a heated slab, and allowed to\ncool in moulds.\nCholera Mixture. 1. The following is\npublished as the Cholera Mixture of the Brit-\nish Army: Oil of anise seed, 3 drm.; oil of\ncajeput, 3 drm.; oil of juniper, 3 drm. ether, 8\ndrm.; liquor acid of Haller, 1 drm.; tincture of\ncinnamon, 4 oz. Mix. Dose, ten drops every\nquarter of an hour, in a tablespoonful of\nwater.\n2. A mixture which has accomplished won-\nders in the writer s hands is this Acid, tannici,\n1 drm.; aeth. chlor. (1 in 10), 2 drm.; ac. sulph. dil.\n1^ drm.; tinct. zingib., 3 drm. aq. menth. pip.\nad 8 oz. Mix. One-sixth every two or three\nhours. See also Diarrhoea.\nChromic Acid Solution for Batteries.\n—12 parts by weight potassium bichromate in\n150 parts of water, with the addition of 25 parts\nof sulphuric hydrate.\nChromogens.— A name given to a class of\nbodies which have in themselves no tinctorial\nproperties, but which pass into true dyes, under\nthe action of the air.\nChromos, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nChrysocale. See Alloys,\nChrysophanic Acid,— A yellow coloring\nmatter scarcely soluble in water but soluble in\nalcohol. It exists in the roots of rhubarb and\nthe dock plant, in senna leaves and in the\nlichen Parmelia paricina. It is of no practical\nvalue.\nChrysorin.— (Rauschenberger.) This is a\nnon-oxidizable alloy, and is composed of 100\nparts copper and 50*25 to 51*25 part zinc.\nCider.— How to Make Good Cider and to\nKeep It.— In localities where the apple crop\nis abundant the preparation of cider for mar-\nket is a profitable industry when intelligently\nundertaken, and there are few beverages more\npalatable and less harmful than cider when\nproperly prepared. Unfortunately, there are\nfew farmers who really know how to make\ngood cider or how to care for and keep it when\nmade.\nIn the first place, apples not perfectly sound\nand well ripened are not fit for making cider.\nThe russet is one of the best of apples for this\npurpose, but other and more commonly avail-\nable varieties need not be slighted.\nTo prevent bruising the fruit intended for the\ncider press should always be hand picked. After\nsweating each apple should be wiped dry, ex-\namined, and any damaged or decayed fruit\nthrown out and used for making vinegar cider.\nIn the grinding or pulping operation the seed\nis often crushed and is apt to taint the juice, so\nthat despite the loss and extra time required it\nis always better to core the apples before grind-\ning them, as the cider will not only taste and\nlook better, but keep better. A cheap and\nhandy coring machine is shown in Fig. 1. In\nthis the coring tube, which may be of tin, free\nfrom iron rust, projects through a common\nbench or table, and is surrounded by an ordinary\nfurniture spring, P, which supports a piece of\nwood, A. This has a hole in the center or it, over","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0106.jp2"},"107":{"fulltext":"Cider.\n95\nCider.\n;and partly into which the apple is placed.\nI The lever, D, on which the piece of wood,\nB, similar to A, but having an aperture\nonly large enough to admit the coring tube, is\nj loosely hung by side pins, is held in position by\nthe spring, S. The operation of the machine\nwill be readily understood by referring to Fig.\n2, in which it is shown in section.\nAll ironwork about the mill or press (rings,\nrivets, etc.) should be tinned or coated with\ngood asphaltum varnish, as the color and some-\ntimes taste of the cider are apt to be affected by\ncontact with the rusty metal.\nIn pressing the pomace many of the best cider\nmakers prefer to use hair cloth in place of straw\nbetween the layers, as it is more cleanly and\ndoes not affect the taste of or add anything to\nthe expressed juice.\nAs the cider runs from the press it should be\nfiltered through a hair sieve into a clean\nwooden vessel capable of holding as much juice\nas can be extracted in one day.\nUnder favorable conditions the fine pomace\nwill rise to the surface in about twenty-four\ntiours— sometimes less— and in a short time\ngrow very thick. Then it should be watched,\nind when white bubbles begin to appear at the\nsurface, the liquid should be drawn off slowly\ntrom a faucet placed about three inches from\nthe bottom of the tank, so as not to disturb the\nlees. The liquid drawn off\nshould be received in clean,\nsweet casks, and must be\nwatched. As soon as white\nbubbles of gas appear at\nthe bunghole, it must be\ndrawn off (racked) into\nclean casks as before, and\nthis racking repeated as\noften as necessary until\nthe first fermentation is\ncompletely at an end.\nThen the casks should be\nfilled up with cider in\nevery respect like that al-\nready contained in it and\nbunged up tight. Many\ncider makers add a goblet-\nf ul of pure olive oil to the\ncider before finally put-\nting in the bung and stor-\ning.\nIf it is desired to keep\ncider perfectly sweet— and\nthis is rarely the case it\nshould be filtered on com-\ning from the press, and\nthen sulphured by the ad-\ndition of about one-quarter\nounce of calcium sulphite\n(sulphite of lime) per gallon\nof cider, and should be\nkept in small, tight, full\nbarrels. The addition of a\nlittle sugar— say one-quar-\nter of a pound per gallon\n—improves the keeping\nqualities of tart cider.\nAn easily constructed\ncider filter is shown in Fig.\n3, and consists in a barrel\nprovided with a tap near\nthe bottom. The lower\npart is filled with dry wood\nchips covered with a piece\nof flannel. Over this a layer\nof clean rye straw is packed\ndown, and then «the barrel\nis filled with clean quartz\nsand, not too fine.\nWhen the first fermenta-\ntion of cider has been\nchecked and the liquid bar-\nreled, it should be allowed\nto stand until it acquires\nthe proper flavor.\nMuch of the excellency\nof cider depends upon the temperature at\nwhich the fermentation is conducted. The\ncasks containing the juice should be kept in a\ncellar, if possible, where the temperature does\nnot exceed 50° Fah. When left exposed to\nthe air, or kept in a warm place, much of\nthe sugar is converted into vinegar and the\nliquor becomes hard and rough. On the con-\ntrary, when the fermentation is conducted\nat a low temperature, nearly the whole of\nthe sugar is converted into alcohol and\nremains in the liquid instead of undergoing\nacetification. The change from alcohol to vine-\ngar (acetous fermentation) goes on most\nrapidly at a temperature of about 95° Fah., and\nat a lower temperature the action becomes\nslower, until at 46° Fah. no such change takes\nplace. Independently of the difference in qua-\nlity of fruit used, the respect of temperature\nis one of the chief causes of the superiority of\nthe cider made by one person over that made\nby another in the same neighborhood.\nThe more malic acid and less sugar present,\nthe less the tendency to acetous fermentation;\nhence it often happens that tart apples produce\nthe best cider. But cider made from such\napples can never equal in quality that pre-\npared at a low temperature from fruit\nrich in sugar, which, if properly cared for, will\nkeep good twenty years.\nFILTER.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0107.jp2"},"108":{"fulltext":"Cider,\n96\nCider.\nWhen the first fermentation Has subsided,\nand the liquor has developed the desired flavor\nin storage, it is drawn off into other barrels\nwhich have been thoroughly cleansed and sul-\nphured, either by burning- in the bung-hole a\nclean rag dipped in sulphur or, what is better,\nby thoroughly rinsing- the inside with a solu-\ntion of bisulphite of calcium prepared by dis-\nsolving about a quarter pound of the sulphite\nin a gallon of water.\nThe isinglass— six ounces or more (in solution)\nto the barrel— should be stirred in as soon as\ntransferred, and then a sufficient quantity of\npreserving powder of bisulphite of lime (not\nsulphate or sulphide), previously dissolved in a\nlittle of the cider, to entirely check fermenta-\ntion. The quantity of this substance required\nrarely exceeds a quarter of an ounce to the\ngallon of cider. A large excess must be avoided,\nas it is apt to injuriously affect the taste.\nSome makers sweeten their cider by additions,\nbefore fining, of sugar or glucose, the quantity\nof the former varying from three-quarters of a\npound to one and a half pounds, while as a sub-\nstitute about three times this quantity of glu-\ncose is required. Sweetened cider, when\nproperly cared for, develops by aging a flavor\nand sparkle resembling some champagnes.\nSuch ciders are best bottled when fined.\nThe following are the n ethods by which some\nof the beverages found in the market under\nthe name of champagne cider are made\n1. Cider (pure apple) 3 bbl.\nGlucose sirup (A) 4 gal.\nWine spirit 4\nThe glucose is added to the cider, and after\ntwelve days storage in a cool place the liquid is\nclarified with one-half gallon of fresh skimmed\nmilk and eight ounces of dissolved isinglass.\nThe spirit is then added and the liquor bottled\non the fourth day afterward.\n2. Pale vinous cider 1 hhd.\nWine spirit 3 gal.\nGlucose about 30 lb.\nThe liquid is stored in casks in a cool place for\nabout one month, when it is fined down with\ntwo quarts of skimmed milk and bottled. Much\nof this and similar preparations are doubtless\nsold for genuine champagne.\n3. Pineapple cider .20 gal.\nWine spirit 1\nSugar 6 lb.\nFine with one gallon of skimmed milk after\ntwo weeks storage in wood and bottle.\nScientific American Supplement.\nCider, Artificial.— Soft water, 25 gal. tartar-\nic acid, 2 lb. New Orleans sugar, 25 lb. yeast,\n1 pt. Put into clean cask with bung out, and\nallow to stand twenty-four hours. Then add\n•3 gal. spirits and let stand forty-eight hours. It\nwill keep well if not left exposed to the air, and\nif the cask is sweet.\nBottling Cider. To have good bottled cider, it\nis necessary first that care should be taken in its\nmanufacture. Apples picked by hand and per-\nfectly ripe and sound are essential to the besf\nquality. They should lie some time after pick-\ning. They should then be sorted, their surface\nwiped dry, and all the rotten fruit rejected.\nThe cider may then be made in the usual man-\nner by grinding and pressing. The cider should\nthen be stored in a cool place to mature. After\nthree or four months it should be racked off\ncarefully, and then fined by adding to each hogs-\nhead a pound of isinglass finings. In two weeks\nfrom the time that the finings are added it\nshould be again racked off, and if found suffi-\nciently clear and sparkling it is ready for bot-\ntling; if not, it should be again fined and al-\nlowed to stand two weeks. Before bottling, the\nbung should be left out of the casks for ten or\ntwelve hours to permit the escape of carbonic\nacid gas. The cider may then be placed in bot-\ntles, and the corks loosely placed in. The bottles\nshould then be allowed to stand twenty-four\nhours. The corks may then be driven in and\nwired down. If the corks are driven in and\nwired when the cider is first put into the bottles\nthere will be great danger of breaking the bot-\ntles by the accumulating pressure of the gas.\nAll additions of flavoring materials are a\ndecided damage to cider made from a fine\nquality of fruit, though they may improve juice\nof a poor quality. If the directions here given\nbe strictly followed, a delicious cider will be\nproduced.\nCider, to Can.— Cider may be preserved sweet\nfor years by putting it up in airtight cans, after\nthe manner of preserving fruit. The liquor\nshould be first settled and racked off from the\ndregs, but fermentation should not be allowed\nto commence before canning.\nChampagne Cider.— Good, pale vinous cider, 1\nhhd. proof spirit, 3 gal. honey or sugar, 14 lb.\nMix well, and let them remain together in a\nmoderately cool place for one month, then add\norange flower water, 3 pt., and in a few days\nfine it down with skimmed milk, Yz gal. A simi-\nlar article, bottled in champagne bottles, sil-\nvered and labeled, is said to be sometimes sold\nfor champagne.\nCider, to Clear.— Ground horseradish, 4 pts.;\nnearly 1 lb. of thick gray filtering paper to the\nbarrel; shake or stir, until the paper has sep-\narated into small shreds; let it stand twenty-\nfour hours, then draw off the cider by means\nof a siphon or stopcock.\nCider, to Improve.— Cider, 1 hogshead; rum,\nweak flavored, 2 gal.; alum, dissolved, 1 lb.;\nhoney or coarse sugar, 15 lb.; sugar coloring,\nq. s.; bitter almonds, lb.; cloves, )4 lb-; mix,\nand after three or four days fine down with\nisinglass. For champagne cider, omit the\ncoloring, and fine with 2 qts. milk; this will\nrender it very pale.\nCider, to Keep.— I. Place in each barrel im-\nmediately on making, mustard, 4 oz.; salt, 1 oa.;\nground chalk, 1 oz. Shake well.\n2. Mustard seed, 1 oz.; allspice, 1 oz.; olive\nM pt.; alcohol, y% pt.\nMade, Cider. An article under this name is\nmade in Devonshire, chiefly for the supply of\nthe London market, it having been found that\nthe ordinary cider will not stand a voyage to the\nmetropolis without some preparation. The\nfinest quality of made cider is simply ordinary\ncider racked into clean and well-sulphured\ncasks but the mass of that which is sent to\nLondon is mixed with water, molasses and\nalum. The cider sold in London under the\nname of Devonshire cider would be rejected\neven by the farmers servants in that county.\nHow to Preserve Cider. A pure, sweet cider\nis only obtainable from clean, sound fruit, and\nthe fruit should therefore be carefully exam-\nined and wiped before grinding.\nIn the press, use hair cloth or gunny in place\nof straw. As the cider runs from the press, let\nit pass through a hair sieve into a large open\nvessel that will hold as much juice as can be\nexpressed in one day. In one day, or sometimes\nless, the pomace will rise to the top, and in a\nshort time grow very thick. When little white\nbubbles break through it, draw off the liquid\nthrough a very small spigot placed about 3 in.\nfrom the bottom, so that the lees may be left\nbehind. The cider must be drawn off into very\nclean, sweet casks, preferably fresh liquor casks,\nand closely watched. The moment the white\nbubbles, before mentioned, are perceived rising\nat the bunghole, rack it again. It is usually\nnecessary to repeat this three times. Then fill\nup the cask with cider in every respect like that\noriginally contained in it, add a tumbler of\nwarm, sweet oil, and bung up tight. For very\nfine cider it is customary to add at this stage of\nthe process about lb. of glucose (starch sugar)\nor a smaller portion of white sugar. The cask\nshould then be allowed to remain in a cool place\nuntil the cider has acquired the desired flavor.\nIn the meantime clean barrels for its reception\nshould be prepared, as follows: Some clean\nstrips of rags are dipped in melted sulphur,\nlighted and burned in the bunghole, and the","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0108.jp2"},"109":{"fulltext":"Cider.\n97\nClarification.\nbung laid loosely on the end of the rag so as to\nretain the sulphur vapor within the barrel.\nThen tie up y 2 lb. of mustard seed in a coarse\nmuslin bag, and put it in the barrel, fill the\nbarrel with cider, add about 34 lb. of isinglass or\nfine gelatine dissolved in hot water.\nThis is the old-fashioned way, and will keep\ncider in the same condition as when it went\ninto the barrel, if kept in a cool place, for a\nyear.\nProfessional cider makers are now using cal-\ncium sulphite (sulphite of lime), instead of\nmustard and sulphur vapor. Jt is much more\nconvenient and effectual. To use it, it is simply\nrequisite to add y$ to 34 of an ounce of the\nsulphite to each gallon of cider in the cask,\nfirst mixing the powder in about a quart of the\ncider, then pouring it back into the cask and\ngiving the latter a thorough shaking or rolling.\nAfter standing bunged several days to allow the\nsulphite to exert its full action, it may be bot-\ntled off.\nThe sulphite of lime (which should not be\nmistaken for the sulphate of lime) is a commer-\ncial article, costing about 40 cents a lb. by the\nbarrel. It will preserve the sweetness of the\ncider perfectly, but unless care is taken not to\nadd too much of it, it will impart a slight\nsulphurous taste to the cider. The bottles and\ncorks used should be perfectly clean, and the\ncorks wired down.\nA little cinnamon, wintergreen, or sassafras,\netc., is often added to sweet cider in the bottle,\ntogether with a drachm or so of bicarbonate of\nsoda at the moment of driving the stopper.\nThis helps to neutralize the acids, and renders\nthe liquid effervescent when unstoppered but\nif used in excess it may prejudicially affect the\ntaste.\nRaisin Cider. This is made in a similar\nway to raisin wine, but without employing\nsugar, and with only 2 lb. of raisins to the\ngallon, or even more, of water. It is usually\nfit for bottling in ten days, and in a week\nlonger is ready for use.\nSee Wines (British).\nCider, to Keep Sweet.— When the cider has\nreached the flavor required, add 1 to 2 tumblers\nof grated horseradish to each barrel of cider.\nCheap Cider.— Mix. well together 10 gal. cold\nwater, VA lb. brown sugar, M lb. tartaric acid,\nadd the juice expressed from 2 or 3 lb. dried\nsour apples, boiled.\nCider Vinegar. See Vinegar.\nCigarettes, Scenting.— Take lign. santal\nflav., loz.;cort. cinnamonis, 1 oz.; flor. lavand.,\n2 oz.; caryophylli, 34 oz.; mix.\nCigars, Flavor for.— 1. Macerate 2 oz. of\ncinnamon and 4 oz. of tonka beans in 1 qt. of\nrum. The beans must be ground fine. Infe-\nrior tobacco may be given a very fair flavor\nwith preparation.\n2. Tincture tonka beans, 12 oz.; fluid extract\nvalerian, V/ 2 oz.; alcohol, 3434 oz.\n3. Moisten ordinary cigars with a strong\ntincture of cascarilla, to which a little gum\nbenzoin and storax may be added. Some per-\nsons add a small quantity of camphor, or oil of\ncloves or cassia.\n4. Soak the tobacco of which the cigars are to\nbe made, for a short time, in a very strong in-\nfusion of cascarilla, and then allow it to dry by\na very gentle heat.\n5. Insert very small shreds of cascarilla bark\nbetween the leaves of the cigar, or in small\nslits made for the purpose. The above yield\na very agreeable odor when smoked but are\nsaid to intoxicate quicker than unprepared\ncigars of equal strength and quality. They lose\nmuch of their fragrance by age.\nCinnamon Cordial. See Liquors.\nCinnamon Water. See Waters.\nCisterns, Capacity of Cylindrical.—\nThe Sanitary News gives the following table\nshowing the capacity in gallons for each foot\nin depth of cylindrical cisterns of any diameter\nDiameter.\nGallons.\nDiameter.\nGaflons\n25 feet.\n3,059\n7 feet.\n239\n20 M\n1,958\n634\n206\n15\n1,101\n6\n176\n14\n959\n5\n132\n13\n827\n4Vz\n99\n12\n705\n4\n78\n11\n592\n3\n44\n10\n489\n2^\n30\n9\n396\n2\n19\n8\n313\nCitrate of Magnesia. See Magnesia,\nCitrate of.\nCitric Acid, to Make from Fruit.—\nCitric acid is generally manufactured from\nlemon juice, which is imported in a concen-\ntrated state produced by evaporation by heat.\nIt consists of citric acid 6 to 7$, alcohol 5 to 6,\nand the remainder water, inorganic salts, etc.\nBy some manufacturers it is allowed to par-\ntially ferment for the purpose of evaporating\nthe clear liquor from the mucilage, or it may\nbe clarified in the usual method by the use of\nalbumen in the form of the white of an egg.\nCarbonate of lime in fine powder is gradually\nadded, and stirred in so long as effervescence\ncontinues. Citrate of lime forms, and after\nbeing separated by drawing off the watery\nliquor, is well washed with warm water. It is\nthen ultimately mixed with strong sulphuric\nacid diluted with 6 parts of water. After some\nhours the citrate is decomposed, the sulphuric\nacid having taken up the lime and formed an\ninsoluble sulphate, setting the citric acid free.\nThis, separated by decanting and filtering, is\nevaporated in leaden pans till it attains the\nspecific gravity 1 13. The evaporation is after-\nward continued by a water or steam bath till\nthe liquor begins to be sirupy, or to be\ncovered with a thin pellicle. It is then re-\nmoved from the fire, and put aside to crystal-\nlize, the mother liquor after a few days being\nevaporated as above, and again set to crystal-\nlize, and so on as long as clear crystals are ob-\ntained. To obtain pure citric acid, all the crys-\ntals should be redissolved and recrystallized,\nit may be several times, and the solution\ndigested with bone black. A gallon of lemon\njuice should make about 8 oz. of crystals. Limes\nand lemons constitute the source from which\ncitric acid is generally made, yet it may be ex-\ntracted from oranges, currants, gooseberries,\nraspberries, tamarinds, etc. The machinery\nand cost of manufacture will depend upon cir-\ncumstances which any one about to go into the\nbusiness can best judge.\nCitron. See Liiquors.\nClaret Cup.— 1 bottle of claret, 1 bottle of\nsoda water, y, tumbler of iced water, y lemon\nsliced; put in small lumps of ice, and sweeten\nwith sugar. Or claret and champagne cup:\n1 bottle of claret or champagne, I large\nwineglass of sherry, a tumbler and y 2 of seltzer\nwater, balm and borage, peel of lemon, very\nthin, 1 slice of cucumber, to be sweetened to\ntaste and highly iced.\nClaret Wine. See Wines.\nClarification.— The depuration or removal\nof substances from liquids, by the admixture of\nsome substance, usually albumen in some form,\nas milk, white of egg, or a solution of gelatine,\nwhich by being coagulated entangles and pre-\ncipitates the contained impui-ities, rendering\nthe liquid clear. The addition of vegetable\nacids will clarify the expressed juices of plants\nby causing coagulation and precipitation of\ntheir pectine or vegetable albumen, and thus\nfit them for sirups. Albumen, gelatine acids,\ncertain salts, blood, lime, plaster of Paris, alum,\nheat, alcohol, etc., serve in many cases for this\npurpose. The first is used under the form of\nwhite of egg, for the clarification of sirups, a?","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0109.jp2"},"110":{"fulltext":"Clark s Alloy.\n98\nCleansing\nit combines with the liquid when cold, but on\nthe application of heat rapidly coagulates and\nrises to the surface, carrying the impurities\nwith it, forming a scum which is easily removed\nwith a skimmer. It is also much used for fining\nwines and liqueurs, particularly the red wines\nand more limpid cordials. Gelatine, under the\nform of isinglass, dissolved in water or weak\nvinegar, is used to fine white wines, beer, cider,\nand similar liquors, that contain a sufficient\nquantity of either spirit or astringency (tan-\nnin) to induce its precipitation. Sulphuric acid\nis frequently added to weak liquors for a similar\npurpose, either alone, or after the addition of\nwhite of egg or gelatine, both of which it rapidly\nthrows down in an insoluble form. Lead acetate\nis frequently used, but the practice is danger-\nous.\nClark s Patent Alloy. See Alloys.\nClay Plaster.— Make a paste of rye flour\nand water and add its bulk of dry clay. Use\nno more water than is necessary to make a\nsmooth paste.\nCleansing Renovating and Protect-\ning.— This section of the work includes laun-\ndry work and the removal of spots and stains.\nAcid Stains, to Remove.— 1. Chloroform will\nrestore the color of garments, where the same\nhas been destroyed by acids. See No. 2.\n2. When acid has accidentally or otherwise\ndestroyed or changed the color of the fabric,\nammonia should be applied to neutralize the\nacid. A subsequent application of chloroform\nrestores the original color.\n3. Spots produced by hydrochloric or sul-\nphuric acid can be removed by the application\nof concentrated ammonia, while spots from\nnitric acid can scarcely be obliterated.\nAcids, Vinegar, Sour Wine, Must, Sour Fruits.\nWhite goods, simple washing, followed up by\nchlorine water if a fruit color accompanies\nthe acid. Colored cottons, woolens, and silks\nare very carefully moistened with dilute am-\nmonia, with the finger end. (In case of deli-\ncate colors, it will be found preferable to make\nsome prepared chalk into thin paste, with water,\nand apply it to the spots.)\nAlabaster, to Clean.— 1. The best method of\ncleaning these ornaments is to immerse them\nfor some time in milk of lime, and then wash\nin clean water, and when dry dust them with a\nlittle French chalk. Milk of lime is made by\nmixing a little slaked lime in water. This has\na milky appearance, whence its name. Ben-\nzol or pure oil of turpentine is very highly\nrecommended.\n2. Use soap and water, with a little washing\nsoda or ammonia, if necessarv. Rinse it thor-\noughly.\nAlkali Stains. To remove from garments.\nA mixture of acetic acid, diluted with a large\nquantity of water, will remove stains brought\nby soda, soap, boilers, lye, etc., if the solution is\nreadily applied.\nAniline from the Hands, to Remove Stains of.\n—Wash with strong alcohol, or what is more\neffectual, wash with a little bleaching powder,\nthen with alcohol.\nAnimals, Stuffed, to Clean.— Give the animal\na good brushing with a stiff clothes brush.\nAfter this warm a quantity of new bran in a\npan, taking care it does not burn, to prevent\nwhich, quickly stir it. When warm, rub it well\ninuothe fur with your hand. Repeat this a\nfew times, then rid the fur of the bran, and\ngive it another sharp brushing until free from\ndust.\nBalls, Scouring.— 1. Curd soap,8oz.; oil of tur-\npentine and oxgall, of each 1 oz. Melt the soap,\nand when cooled a little, stir in the rest, and\nmake it into cakes while warm.\n2. Soft soap and fuller s earth, each 1 lb.; beat\nthem well together in a mortar, and form into\ncakes. To remove grease, etc., from cloth.\nThe spot first moistened with water is rubbed\nwith the cake, and allowed to dry, when it is\nwell rubbed with a little warm water, and after-\nward rinsed or rubbed off clean.\nBarometer Tubes, to Clean.— Try a small quan-\ntity of warm nitric acid. Then rinse with\nwater, rinse with absolute alcohol, and finally\nwith ether warm to expel the vapor of ether.\nBarrels, to Cleanse.— -Put a few pounds un-\nslaked lime in the barrel, add water, and cover.\nIn a short time add more water and roll the\nbarrel. Rinse a h clean water.\nBlackboards, w Remove Grease from.— Make\na strong lye of pearlashes and soft water, and\nadd as much unslaked lime as it will take up.\nStir it together and let it settle a few minutes,\nbottle it and stopper close. Have ready some\nwater to dilute it when used, and scour the\npart with it. The liquor must not remain long\non the board, as it will draw the color with it.\nHence use it with care and expedition.\nBlankets, to Cleanse.— 1. Put two large table-\nspoonfuls of borax and a pint bowl of soft soap\ninto a tub of cold water. When dissolved put\nin a pair of blankets, and let them remain over-\nnight. Next day rub and drain them out, and\nrinse thoroughly in two waters, and hang them\nup to dry. Do not wring them.\n2. Scrape 1 lb. soda soap, and boil it down in\nsufficient water, so that when cooling you can\nbeat it with the hand to make a sort of jelly.\nAdd 3 tablespoonf uls spirit of turpentine and\n1 tablespoonf ul of spirit of hartshorn, and with\nthis wash the article well and rinse in cold water\nuntil all the soap is taken off. Then apply salt\nand water and fold between two sheets, taking\ncare not to allow two folds of the article washed\nto tie together. Smooth with a cool iron. Only\nuse the salt where there are delicate colors that\nmay run. If you can get potash soap, it will\nbe better, as woolen manufacturers do not use\nsoda soap.\nBlood Stains, to Remove. 1. An accidental\nprick of the finger frequently spoils the appear-\nance of work, and if for sale, decreases its value.\nStains may be entirely obliterated from almost\nany substance by laying a thick coating of\ncommon starch over the place. The starch is\nto be mixed as if for the laundry, and laid on\nquite wet.\n2. The free and early application of a weak\nsolution of soda or potash, and the subsequent\napplication of the solution of alum, is recom-\nmended.\nBlood and Albuminoid Matters.— Steeping in\nlukewarm water. If pepsine, or the juice of\nCarica papaya, can be procured, the spots are\nfirst softened with lukewarm water, and then\neither of these substances is applied.\nBluing, Laundry. See Bluing.\nBones and Ivory, to Clean and Prepare.— 1. The\ncurators of the anatomical museum of the Jar-\ndin des Plante shave found that spirits of tur-\npentine is very efficacious in removing the dis-\nagreeable odor and fatty emanations of bones\nor ivory, while it leaves them beautifully\nbleached. The articles should be exposed in the\nfluid for three or four days in the sun, or a little\nlonger if in the shade. They should rest upon\nstrips of zinc, so as to be a fraction of an inch\nabove the bottom of the glass vessel employed.\nThe turpentine acts as an oxidizing agent, and\nthe product of the combustion is an acid liquor\nwhich sinks to the bottom, and strongly attacks\nthe ivory if allowed to touch it.\n2. Make a thick paste of common whiting in a\nsaucer. Brush well with a toothbrush into the\ncarved work. Brush well out with plenty of\nclean water. Dry gently near the fire. Finish\nwith a clean dry hard brush, adding one or two\ndrops (not more) of alcohol.\n3. Mix about a tablespoonful of oxalic acid in\npt. of boiling water. Wet the ivory over first\nwith water, then with a toothbrush apply the\nacid, doing one side at a time and rinsing, finally\ndrying it in a cloth before the fire, but not\ntoo close.\n4. Take a piece of fresh lime, slake it by\nsprinkling it with water, then mix into a paste.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0110.jp2"},"111":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\nCleansing.\n-which apply by means of a soft brush, brushing\nwell into the interstices of the carving; next set\nby in a warm place till perfectly dry, after\nwhich take another soft brush and remove the\nlime. Should it still remain discolored, repeat\nthe process, but be careful to make it neither\ntoo wet nor too hot in drying off, or probably\nthe article might come to pieces, being most\nlikely glued or cemented tog^ her. If it would\nstand steeping in lime wat.- 1 7 for twenty-four\nhours, and afterward boning in strong alum\nwater for about an hour and then dried, it\nwould turn out white and clean. Rubbing with\noxide of tin (putty powder) and a chamois\nleather will restore a fine gloss afterward.\n5. Clean well with spirits of wine, then mix\nsome whiting with a little of the spirits, to form\na paste, and well brush with it. It is best to use\na rubber of soft leather where there are no deli-\ncate points; put a little soap on the leather, and\ndip into the paste and rub the ivory until you\nget a brilliant polish, finish off with a little dry\nwhiting; the leather should be attached to a flat\nwood surface and rub briskly.\n6. When ivory ornaments get yellow or dusky\nlooking, wash them well in soap and water,\nwith a small brush to clean the carvings, and\nplace them while wet in full sunshine; wet them\ntwo or three times a day for several days with\nsoapy water, still keeping them in the sun; then\nwash them again, and they will be beautif uUy\nwhite. To bleach ivory, immerse it for a short\ntime in water containing a little sulphurous\nacid, chloride of lime or chlorine.\n7. Soda ash, 1 lb.; lime (burned), y% lb.; hot\nwater, 3 qt. Mix, and soak the bones for twen-\nty-four hours in the liquid; wash them thor-\noughly and bleach them.\n8. Put the bones in a strong warm alcoholic\nsolution of caustic potash for a short time, then\nimmerse in running water.\nBonnets, Chip or Straw.— To Clean.— Wash in\nwarm soap liquor, well brushing them both in-\nside and out, then rinse in cold water, and they\nare ready for bleaching.\nTo Bleach.— Put a small quantity of salts of\nsorrel or oxalic acid into a clean pan, and pour\non it sufficient scalding water to cover the bon-\nnet or hat. Put the bonnet or hat into this\nliquor, and let it remain in it for about five\nminutes to keep it covered hold it down with\na clean stick. Dry in the sun or before a clear\nfire. Or, having first dried the bonnet or hat,\nput it, together with a saucer of burning sul-\nphur, into a box with a tight-closing lid. Cover\nit over to keep in the fumes, and let it remain\nfor a few hours. The disadvantage of bleach-\ning with sulphur is that the articles so bleached\nsoon become yellow, which does not happen\nto them when they are bleached by oxalic acid.\nTo Finish or Stiffen. After cleaning and\nbleaching, white bonnets should be stiffened\nwith parchment size. Black or colored bonnets\nare finished with a size made from the best glue.\nStraw or chip plaits, or leghorn hats and bon-\nnets, may also be cleaned, bleached and finished\nas above.\nBooks, Removal of Stains from, and Cleaning.\n1. Dust can be removed by using bread or\nvery soft rubber.\n2. Water stains are removed by boiling water\nand alum. It will be necessary to float the\nsheet on this bath for some hours. Dry between\nclean blotting paper. The amount of alum is\nimmaterial.\n3. Damp stains are treated the same way, but\nwith less chance of success.\n4. Mud.— Very little can be done. Wash in cold\nwater, then in dilute hydrochloric acid and af-\nterward in a weak solution of chloride of lime.\nRinse and dry.\n5. Fox Marks.— Use very dilute hydrochloric\nacid or Javelle water.\n6. Finger Marks.— Very difficult to erase. Ap-\nply a jelly of white or curd soap, then wash\nwith a brush in cold water.\n7. Blood Stains. —Soak in cold water, wash\nwith soap and rinse.\n8. Ink stains (of writing ink) usually try\noxalic acid followed by chloride of lime. Wash\nwell.\n9. Ink Stains (Marking Ink, etc.). Apply tinc-\nture of iodine. The silver in the ink forms sil-\nver iodide, which is removed by weak solution\nof potassium cyanide (deadly poison).\n10. Grease Spots.— Put over the spot a piece of\nblotting paper, apply a hot iron.\n11. Or, apply Fr. chalk, put a piece of paper\nover it and apply the iron.\n12. Or, try ether or benzine, put blotting paper\nabove and below the spot.\nBlottles, Ink, to Clean. For cleaning ink bot-\ntles, the best and quickest agent is oxalic acid,\nbut it is a violent poison. Try shaking small\nnails, with water or vinegar in them, and if\nthis does not answer, use hydrochloric acid,\ncarefully washing out two or three times after\nits application.\nBottles, to Clean Oily or Greasy.— Pour into them\na little strong sulphuric acid after they have\nbeen aflowed to drain as much as possible, the\nbottle is then corked, and the acid caused to\nflow into every portion of it, for about five\nminutes. It is then washed with repeated rins-\nings of cold water. All traces of oil or grease\nleft will be removed in a very expeditious man-\nner, and no odor whatever will be left in the\nbottle after washing.\nBrass., to Glean.— 1. There are many substances\nand mixtures which will clean brass. Oxalic\nacid, muriatic acid, and several other acids will\nclean brass very effectively oxalic acid is the\nbest, but the acids must be well washed off, the\nbrass dried, and then rubbed with sweet oil\nand tripoli, otherwise it will soon tarnish\nagain. Mixture to clean brass is soft soap,\n1 oz.; rotten stone, 2 oz.\n2. Oxalic acid, 1 oz.; rotten stone, 2 oz.; sweet\noil, 1% oz.; spirits of turpentine enough to\nmake a paste. When used, a little water is\nadded and friction applied. If brass is very\ndirty, it requires a strong acid to make it\nbright; such is chromic acid, best prepared\nby mixing bichromate of potassa, sulphuric\nacid, and water, equal parts of each. This\nmakes the dirtiest brass bright and clear at\nonce, but it must be immediately washed off\nwith plenty of water, rubbed dry, and polished\nwith rotten stone. There are no patents on\nany of these proceedings and if there were,\nthe patentees would not be sustained in their\nclaims.\n3. Wash with rock alum, boiled in a strong\nlye in the proportion of 1 oz. to 1 pt.; polish\nwith dry tripoli.\n4. The government method prescribed for\ncleaning brass, and in use at all the United\nStates arsenals, is claimed to be the best in the\nworld. The plan is to make a mixture of\n1 part common nitric acid and y% part sul-\nphuric acid, in a stone jar, having also ready a\npail of fresh water and a box of sawdust. The\narticles to be treated are dipped into the acid,\nthen removed into the water, and finally rub-\nbed with sawdust. This immediately changes\nthem to a brilliant color. If the brass has be-\ncome greasy, it is first dipped in a strong solu-\ntion of potash and soda in warm water; this\ncuts the grease, so that the acid has free power\nto act.\n5. Rub the surface of the metal with rotten\nstone and sweet oil, then rub off with a piece of\ncotton flannel, and polish with soft leather. A\nsolution of oxalic acid rubbed over tarnished\nbrass soon removes the tarnish, rendering the\nmetal bright. The acid must be washed off\nwith water, and the brass rubbed with whiting\nand soft leather. A mixture of muriatic acid\nand alum dissolved in water imparts a golden\ncolor to brass articles that are steeped in it for\na few seconds.\n6. First boil your articles in a pan with or-\ndinary washing soda, to remove the old lac-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0111.jp2"},"112":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n100\nCleansing.\nquer; then let them stand for a short time in\ndead nitric acid; then run them through bright\ndipping nitric acid Swill all acid off in clean\nwater, and brighten the relieved parts with a\nsteel burnisher, replace in clean water, and dry\nout in beech sawdust. Next place your work\non he stove till heated, so that you can with\ndim. ulty bear your hand on articles, and apply\nEale lacquer with brush; the work will burn if\neated too much or too rapidly.\n7. Put a coat of nitric acid over the part you\nwant cleaned, with a piece of rag; as soon as it\nturns a light yellow, rub it dry and the brass\nwill present a very clean appearance; if not\nsatisfactory, repeat.\n8. Oxalic acid and whiting mixed and applied\nwet, with brush, and brushed again when dry\nwith soft plate brush to polish with dry whit-\ning.\n9. Brass Instruments.— If the instruments are\nvery much oxidized, or covered with green\nrust, first wash them with strong soda and\nwater. If not so very bad, this first process\nmay be dispensed with. Then apply mixture\nof 1 part common sulphuric acid and 12 parts\nof water, mixed in an earthen vessel, and\nafterward polish with oil and rotten stone,\nwell scouring with oil and rotten stone,\nand using a piece of soft leather and a little\ndry rotten stone to give a brilliant polish. In\nfuture cleaning, oil and rotten stone will be\nfound sufficient.\n10. Take a strip of coarse linen, saturate with\noil and powdered rotten stone, put round the\ntubing of instrument, and work backward\nand forward polish with dry rotten stone.\nDo not use acid of any kind, as it is injurious\nto the joints. To hold the instrument, get a\npiece of wood turned to insert in the bells fix\nin a bench vise. The piece of wood will also\nserve for taking out any dents you may get in\nthe bells.\n11. Oil and rotten stone for this purpose,\nthough very efficacious, are objectionable on ac-\ncount of dirt, the oil finding its way to the pis-\ntons, and because the instrument cleaned in this\nmanner so soon tarnishes. Dissolve some com-\nmon soda in warm water, shred into it some\nscraps of yellow soap, and boil it till the soap\nis all melted. Then take it from the fire, and\nwhen it is cool add a little turpentine and suf-\nficient rotten stone to make a stiff paste. Keep\nit in a tin box covered from the air, and if it\ngets hard, moisten a small quantity with water\nfor use.\n12. If very much oxidized or covered with\ngreen rust, first wash it with strong soda and\nwater. If not so very bad, this first process\nmay be dispensed with. Then apply a mixture\nof 1 part of common sulphuric acid and 12\nparts of water, mixed in an earthen vessel;\nwash well, first with clear water, and then with\nwater containing some ammonia, afterward\nscouring well with oil and rotten stone, and\nusing a piece of soft leather and a little dry\nrotten stone to give a brilliant polish. In sub-\nsequent cleaning oil and rotten stone will be\nfound sufficient.\n13. Brass work that is so dirty by smoke\nand heat as not to be cleaned with oxalic\nacid, snould be thoroughly washed or scrub-\nbed with soda, or potash water, or lye. Then\ndip in a mixture of equal parts of nitric acid,\nsulphuric acid, and water; or, if it cannot\nbe conveniently dipped, make a swab of a small\npiece of woolen cloth upon the end of a stick,\nand rub the solution over the dirty or smoky\nparts leave the acid on for a minute, and then\nwash clean and polish.\n14. Paste for Cleaning Brass.— Starch, lpart;\npowdered rotten stone, 12 parts sweet oil, 2\nparts oxalic acid, 2 parts water to mix.\n15. Prep.— Soft soap, 2 oz.; rotten stone, 4 oz.;\nbeat them to a paste.\n16. Rotten stone made»into a paste with«sweet\noil.\n17. Rotten stone, 4 oz.; oxalic acid, 1 oz.; sweet\noil, 1^4 oz.; turpentine enough to make a paste.\nTo Clean Brass.— The first and last are best\napplied with a little water. The second, with a\nlittle spirits of turpentine or sweet oil. Both\nrequire friction with soft leather.\n18. Oxalic acid, 1 part; iron peroxide, 15 parts;\npowdered rotten stone, 20 parts palm oil, 60\nparts; petrolatum, 4 parts. See that solids are\nthoroughly pulverized and sifted, then add and\nthoroughly incorporate oil and petrolatum.\nCleaning Brass Inlaid Work.— Mix tripoli and\nlinseed oil, and dip felt into the preparation.\nWith this polish. If the wood be rosewood or\nebony, polish it with finely powdered elder\nashes, or make a polishing paste of rotten stone,\na pinch of starch, sweet oil, and oxalic acid,\nmixed with water.\nBrass Oas Fixtures, to Restore. Have the\nwater clean and boiling in two vessels. Dip in\none water and then in the next as soon as taken\nfrom the nitric acid bath, so that there shall be\nno traces of acid on the fittings. Dry in box-\nwood sawdust while hot, and place upon a piece\nof hot sheet iron over a stove. As soon as all\ntraces of water have left, quickly lacquer with\nvery thin shellac varnish, using a camel s hair\nbrush. You can make the lacquer, by dissolv-\ning shellac in best alcohol. Do not touch the\nmetal with the fingers before lacquering.\nBrass Gun Shells, to Clean.— Por such as have\nbeen used, boil in a strong solution of caustic\nsoda, rinse in hot water, then dip in a hot\npickle of sulphuric acid, 1 part water, 4 parts;\nand rinse in hot water.\nBritannia Metal, to Clean. Use finely pow-\ndered whiting, 2 tablespoonfuls of sweet oil and\na little yellow soap. Mix with spirits of wine\nto a cream. Rub on with a sponge, wipe off\nwith a soft cloth, and polish with a chamois\nskin.\nBroadcloth, to Remove Stains from. Grind\nfine 1)4 oz. pipe clay mix with 18 drops of al-\ncohol and the same quantity spirits of turpen-\ntine. Moisten a little of this mixture with\nalcohol and rub on the stains. When dry, rub\noff with a woolen cloth.\nBronze, to Cleanse.— Clean the surface, first of\nall, with whiting and water, or crocus powder,\nuntil it is polished; then cover with a paste of\nplumbago and crocus, mixed in the proportions\nthat will produce the desired color. Heat the\npaste over a small charcoal fire. Perhaps the\nbronzing has been produced by a. corrosive\nprocess; if so, try painting a solution of sulph-\nide of potassium over the cleaned metal.\nBronze Statuary, to Clean. Use weak soap-\nsuds or aqua ammonia.\nBrushes, to Wash.— Dissolve a piece of soda in\nsome hot water, allowing a piece the size of a\nwalnut to a quart of water. Put the water into\na basin, and after combing out the hair from,\nthe brushes, dip them, bristles downward, into\nthe water and out again, keeping- the backs and\nhandles as free from the water as possible. Re-\npeat this until the bristles look clean; then\nrinse the brushes in a little cold water; shake\nthem well, and wipe the handles and backs with\na towel, but not the bristles, and set the brushes\nto dry in the sun, or near the fire but take\ncare not to put them too close to it. Wiping\nthe bristles of a brush makes them soft, as does\nalso the use of soap.\nCalico and Linen, to Clean. 1. When linen or\ncalico is discolored by washing, age, or lying out\nof use, the best method of restoring the white-\nness is by bleaching in the open air, and expo-\nsure on the grass to the dews and winds. There\nmay occur cases, however, where this may be\ndifficult to accomplish, and where a quicker pro-\ncess may be desirable, and the following is the\nbest:\n2. Lay the linen for twelve hours in a lye\nformed of 1 lb. soda to a gal. of boiling hot soft\nwater then boil it for half an hour in the same\nliquid. Then make a mixture of chloride of\nlime with 8 times its quantity of water, which","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0112.jp2"},"113":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n101\nCleansing.\nmust be well shaken in a stone jar for three\nd ays, then allowed to settle, and being- drawn\noff clear, the linen must be steeped in it thirty-\nsix hours, and then washed out in the ordinary\nway. This will remove all discoloration.\nChairs, Cane-seatea, Renovating.— 1. Clean the\narticles with a solution of oxalic acid. Their\ncolor will be restored.\n8. Wash with hot water and a sponge, using\nsoap if necessary. Dry in a current of air.\nCanvas, to Renovate— Coat it with a black\nleather varnish, such as the following Digest\nshellac, 12 parts white turpentine, 5 gum san-\ndarac, 2; lampblack, 1 with spirits of turpen-\ntine, 4; and alcohol, 96.\nCarpets, to Clean.— 1. If brooms are wet with\nboiling suds once a week, they will become very\ntough, will not cut a carpet, and will last much\nlonger. A handful or so of salt sprinkled on a\ncarpet will carry the dust along with it and\nmake the carpet look bright and clean. A very\ndusty carpet may be cleaned by dipping the\nbroom in cold water, shaking off all the drops,\nand sweeping a yard or so at a time. Wash the\nbroom and repeat until the entire carpet has\nbeen swept.\n2. Use 1 pint oxgall to a pailful of water;\nafter washing apply cold water to rinse out the\noxgall, and finally sponge as dry as possible.\n3. Dry Cleaning.— Have ready a number of\ndry coarse cotton or linen cloths, some coarse\nflannels and one or more large pieces of coarse\nsponge two or more hard scrubbing or scour-\ning brushes, some large tubs or pans, and pails,\nand also a plentiful supply of both hot and cold\nwater. First take out all grease spots; this\nmay be effected in several ways. Well rub the\nspot with a piece of hard soap and wash out\nwith a brush and cold water, and well dry each\nspot before leaving it.\n4. Or use, instead of the soap, a mixture of\nfuller s earth, gall and water, well rinsing and\ndrying each spot as before. When this has been\ndone, the carpet may be cleaned by one of the\nthree following methods\nCarpet, How to Sweep. It is not an easy\nmatter to sweep well, at any rate, if we may\njudge by experience for when a broom is put\ninto the hands of the uninitiated, more harm\nthan good generally results from the use of it.\nWithout the greatest care and some little\nknowledge, furniture and paint, by being\nknocked about with the broom, may soon\nreceive an irreparable amount of damage.\nBefore sweeping rooms, the floors should be\nstrewed with a good amount of dry tea leaves,\nwhich should be saved for the purpose these\nwill attract the dust and save much harm to\nother furniture, which, as far as possible,\nshould be covered up during the process. Tea\nleaves also may be used with advantage upon\ndruggets and short piled carpets. Light\nsweeping and soft brooms are here desirable.\nMany a carpet is prematurely worn out by in-\njudicious sweeping. Stiff carpet brooms and\nthe stout arms of inexperienced servants are\ntheir destruction. In sweeping thick piled\ncarpets, such as Axminster and Turkey car-\npets, the servant should be instructed to brush\nalways the way of the pile by so doing they\nmay be kept clean for years but if the broom\nis used in a different way, all the dust will enter\nthe carpet and soon spoil it. Salt spiinkled upon\nthe carpet before sweeping will make it look\n1 right and clean. This is also a good prevent-\nive against moths.\nTo Remove Grape Stains from Carpet.— Wash\nout with warm soapsuds and a little ammo-\nnia water.\nCarriages, to Preserve.— Ammonia cracks\nvarnish and fades the colors both of painting\nand lining. A carriage should never, under any\ncircumstances, be put away dirty. In washing\na carriage, keep out of the sun, and have the\nlever end of the setts covered with leather.\nUse plenty of water, which apply (where prac-\nticable) with a hose or syringe, aking care that\nthe water is not driven into the body to the\ninjury of the lining. When forced water is not\nattainable, use for the body a large soft sponge.\nThis, when saturated, squeeze over the panels,\nand by the flow down of the water the dirt will\nsoften and harmlessly run off, then finish with\na soft chamois leather and oil silk handker-\nchief. The same remarks apply to the under\nworks and wheels, except that when the mud\nis well soaked, a soft mop, free from any hard\nsubstance in the head, may be used. Never use\na spoke brush, 1 which, in conjunction with\nthe grit from the road, acts like sandpaper on\nthe varnish, scratching it, and of course effec-\ntually removing all gloss. Never allow water\nto dry itself on the carriage, as it invariably\nleaves stains. 2. Be careful to grease the bear-\nings of the fore carriage so as to allow it to\nturn freely. Examine a carriage occasionally,\nand whenever a bolt or slip appears to be get-\nting loose, tighten it up with a wrench, and\nalways have little repairs done at once. Top\ncarriages should never stand with the head\ndown, and aprons of every kind should be fre-\nquently unfolded or they will soon spoil.\nCelluloid Collars and Cuffs, to Whiten.— 1. If the\ncoloring does not disappear when the affected\nportions are rubbed with a woolen cloth and a\nlittle tripoli, and then polished with a clean\nwoolen rag, the injury is a permanent one.\n2. Cream of tartar is excellent. Use with a little\nwater.\nCelluloid Covered Mountings, tn Clean.— Rub\nthe covered parts with a woolen cloth and a\nlittle tripoli, and polish with a clean woolen\nrag.\nChina, to Clean.— Use a little fuller s earth\nand soda or pearlash with your water.\nChromos, to Clean.— Keep a wet towel lying\non its face till the dirt is thoroughly softened,\nsay 3 or i days, occasionally rubbing off care-\nfully with a sponge then rub with clear nut\nor linseed oil.\nClocks and Watches, to Clean.— In cleaning\nclock and watch movements take 1 qt. water,\nabout 1 teaspoonf ul or 5 grn. liquid ammonia\nor alkali into this liquid should be grated or\nscraped fine 5 grn. common soap. These propor-\ntions can be varied as desired, if the following\nremarks are kept in view The articles to be\ncleaned should be plunged into this bath, where\nthey should be allowed to remain at least ten\nminutes. Twenty or thirty minutes is better,\nespecially for clocks. The articles should be\nwiped dry when removed from the bath, or\npolished up with a brush dipped in some polish-\ning powder. Rectified benzine is preferable, as\nammonia is apt to turn the movement black if in\nexcess. Use great care in using benzine, as it is\nvery inflammable and never should be used at\nnight.\nCloth, Spots and Stains on. See Spots and\nStains below.\nTo Clean Black Cloth.— Dissolve 1 oz. bicarbon-\nate of ammonia in 1 qt. warm water. With this\nliquid rub the cloth, using a piece of flannel or\nblack cloth for the purpose. After the appli-\ncation of this solution, clean the cloth well with\nclear water, dry and iron it, brushing the cloth\nfrom time to time in the direction of the fiber.\nCloth Cleaning .Compound.— Glycerine, 1 oz.;\nsulphuric ether, 1 oz.; alcohol, 1 oz.; ammonia,\n4 oz.; Castile soap, 1 oz.; mix together and add\nsufficient water to make 2 qt. Apply and rinse.\nClothes, to Brush.— Brushing clothes is a very\nsimple but very necessary operation. Fine\nclothes require to be brushed lightly, and with\nrather a soft brush, except where mud is to be\nremoved, when a hard one is necessary, being\npreviously beaten lightly to dislodge the dirt.\nLay the garment on a table, and brush it in the\ndirection of the nap. Having brushed it proper-\nly, turn the sleeves back to the collar, so that\nthe folds may come at the elbow joints; next\nturn the lapels or sides back over the folded\nsleeves, then lay the skirts over level with the\ncollar, so that the crease may fall about the","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0113.jp2"},"114":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n102\nCleansing.\ncenter, and double one half over the other, so\nthat the fold comes in the center of the back.\nCoins, Medals, etc., to Clean.— 1. If the coins\nare silver, clean with potassium cyanide. This\nis a deadly poison, and should be handled with\ncare.\n2. Dip in strong hot solution of potash or\nsoda, rinse and dip for a moment in nitric acid,\nafter which rinse quickly in running- water.\n3. Coins can be quickly cleansed by immersion\nin strong nitric acid, and immediate washing in\nwater. If very dirty, or corroded with verdi-\ngris, it is better to give them a rubbing with\nthe following y% oz. pure bichromate of pot-\nash 1 oz. sulphuric acid 1 oz. nitric acid. Rub\nover, wash with water, wipe dry, and polish\nwith rotten stone or chalk. Lijle.\nColor, to ^Restore— When color on a fabric has\nbeen accidentally or otherwise destroyed by acid\nammonia is applied to neutralize the same,\nafter which an application of chloroform will,\nin almost all cases, restore the original color.\nThe application of ammonia is common, but\nthat of chloroform is but little known.\nColor, to Revive the Color of Faded Black Cloth\nor Leather.— Take of the best quality of blue\ngalls, 4 oz. of logwood, clean sulphate of iron,\n(copperas), clean iron filings and sumac leaves,\neach 1 oz. put the galls, logwood and sumac\nberries into 1 qt. of the best white wine vinegar,\nand heat to nearly the boiling point in a sand\nbath, then add the iron filings and copperas;\ndigest for twenty-four hours and strain for use.\nApply with a sponge.\nCombs, to Clean.— If it can be avoided, never\nwash combs, as the water often makes the teeth\nsplit and the tortoiseshell or horn of which\nthey are made rough. Small brushes, manu-\nfactured purposely for cleaning combs, may be\npurchased at a trifling cost with this the comb\nshould be well brushed, and afterward wiped\nwith a cloth or towel.\nCopper, to Clean.— 1. Take 1 oz. of oxalic acid, 6\noz. rottenstone, oz. gum arabic, all in powder,\n1 oz. sweet oil, and sufficient of water to make a\npaste. Apply a small portion, and rub dry with\na flannel or leather.\n2. Use soft soap and rotten stone, made into a\nstiff paste with water, and dissolved by gently\nsimmering in a water bath. Rub on with a\nwoolen rag, and polish with dry whiting and\nrotten stone. Finish with a leather and dry\nwhiting.\n3. Copper plates are cleaned by laying them\non the hob near the fire, and pouring on them\nsome turpentine, and then rubbing them with\na small soft brush.\nCoral, to Clean and Bleach.— 1. The secret in\ncleaning coral is to turn the mass bottom up-\nward and suspend it by means of a piece of\nwire in the saucepan, so that the dirt, as it\nboils off, may drop into the water, instead of\ndown the septa. A strong solution of ordinary\nwashing soda, or better, oxalic acid, is to be\nused to boil in it. The mass is to be boiled at\nleast three hours. This is not only to clean the\ncoral, but to bleach it also.\n2. Apply a mixture of hydrochloric acid and\nwater, or wash the coral with a stiff brush »in\ncold salt and water, with a little soap powder, a\nlittle chloride of lime will improve it, then put\nin the sun to dry and bleach.\nCrape, to Restore.— Skimmed milk and water,\nwith a little bit of glue in it, made scalding hot,\nis excellent to restore rusty Italian crape. If\nclapped and pulled dry like muslin, it will look\nas good as new; or, brush the veil till all the\ndust is removed, then fold it lengthwise, and\nroll it smoothly and tightly on a roller. Steam\nit till it is thoroughly dampened, and dry on\nthe roller.\nCrape, to Clean.— Crape is cleansed by rinsing\nit in ox-gall and water, to remove the dirt,\nafterward in pure water to remove the gall,\nand lastly in a little gum water to stiffen and\ncrisp it. It is then clapped between the hands\nuntil dry.\nCurtains, to Wash.— Shake every curtain, or\nhang them on a line and brush them down\nwith a soft haired brush Prepare a soaking\nliquid by melting a small quantity of borax in\nwarm water, soak for an hour or two, then\nsqueeze between the hands to remove the\nsuperfluous water. Take some good soap and\nchip it in hot water, stir until all the soap is\nmelted, and a fine lather produced. By this\ntime the water will be moderately warm.\nImmerse the curtains in this, pass them repeat-\nedly through the lathered water, or work them\nup and down. Rubbing should be avoided;\nwhen absolutely necessary i do it gently and\nwithout a brush. Squeeze out the soapy water,\nand rinse in plenty of soft, warm water.\nWring carefully. Curtains should be dried\nquickly. If in the country, they may be\nspread to dry on clean grass. Otherwise cur-\ntains are always better for being stretched\nand pinned to wooden frames while drying.\nIt is advisable to use cooked starch for cur-\ntains. Use good starch, mix it thoroughly in\nwarm water, which should be made to boil for\nfifteen or twenty minutes. While cooling add\na very little indigo blue. This is only to be used\nfor pure white curtains. The starch should be\ndecidedly thick. Draw the curtains through\nthe starch, squeeze out gently, and dry rapidly.\nCurtains, Coloring. Many persons prefer\ntinted curtains to pure white ones. If they\nhave to be colored, do not put any blue in the\nstarch, but use water that has been slightly\ntinted with coffee for ecru curtains tea for\na more decided hue, or saffron for yellow tint)\nfor preparing the starch. A decoction of log-\nwood may be used if you wish to give the cur-\ntains a delicate pink hue.\nCurtains, how to Prepare Special Coloring-\nStarches for Curtains.— The basis of these color-\ning starches is thus prepared. Soak 1 lb. of\ngood white glue for twelve hours, using just\nenough water to make it into a jelly dissolve\nthis with boiling water, adding about 18 to 191b.\nof Paris white add more water until the com-\npound is diluted to the consistency of milk.\nThis starch may be colored to taste. A little\nPrussian blue and vermilion in the propor-\ntions of 2 to 1) gives a fine lilac. Raw\number and a pinch of lamp-black gives a gray.\nVermilion and red lead in the proportion of 3\nto 1) produce a tender rose. Indigo blue\njust tinted with vermilion gives a lavender.\nChrome yellow and a pinch of Spanish brown\ngives lemon yellow. Indian yellow and burnt\nsienna in the proportion of 2 to 1 gives a buff\nhue. Experiments should be tried, as some of\nthe colors look very badlv if thev are dark.\nDiamonds, to Clean.— Clean all diamonds and\nprecious stones by washing them with soap and\nwater with a soft brush, adding a little ammonia\nin the water, and then dry in fine boxwood saw-\ndust. A little potash or pearlash put in the\nwater will answer the same purpose.\nDrawing Instruments, to Clean.— If the lac-\nquering is badly spotted, clean it off with strong\nalcohol, and then polish the brass or German sil-\nver with the following paste by means of flannel\nand a little water, and polish off with clean\nchamois leather or cotton cloth and a little whit-\ning, after which you might re- varnish with shel-\nlac dissolved in alcohol, colored with a little\ndragon s blood, which can be got from any\napothecary: Soft soap, 3 oz.; sweet oil, l 2 oz.;\nturpentine, J4 oz.; powdered rotten stone, 4oz.;\nfinest flour emery, 1 oz.; fine powdered crocus\nof antimony, J4 oz. Melt the soap, oil and tur-\npentine together, add the powders, a little water\nto make a stiff paste, and mix well.\nEngravings, to Clean.— I. Presuming these to\nbe mounted, proceed in the following manner:\nCut a stale loaf in half, with a perfectly clean\nknife; pare the crust away from the edges.\nPlace the engravings on a flat table, and rub-\nbing the surface with the fresh cut bread, in\ncircular sweeps, lightly but firmly performed,\nwill remove all superficial markings. Soak the","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0114.jp2"},"115":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n103\nCleansing.\nprints for a short time in a dilute solution of\nhydrochloric acid, say 1 part acid to 100 of\nwater, and then remove them into a vessel con-\ntaining a sufficient quantity of clear chloride of\nlime water to cover them. Leave them here\nuntil bleached to the desired point. Remove,\nrinse well by allowing to stand an hour in\na pan in which a constant stream of water is\nallowed to flow, and finally dry off by spread-\ning on clean cloths. Perhaps they may require\nironing between two sheets of clean paper.\n2. Put the engraving on a smooth board,\ncover it thinly with common salt finely\npowdered squeeze lemon juice upon the salt so\nas to dissolve a considerable proportion of it;\nelevate one end of the board, so that it may form\nan angle of about 45° or 50° with the borizon.\nPour on the engraving boiling water from a\ntea kettle until the salt and lemon juice be all\nwashed off; the engraving will then be per-\nfectly clean, and free from stains. It must be\ndried on the board, or on some smooth surface,\ngradually. If dried by the fire or the sun, it\nwill be tinged with a yellow color.\n3. Hydrochloric acid, oxalic acid, or eau de\nJavelle may be employed, weakened by water.\nAfter the leaves (if it be a book) have by this\nmeans been whitened, they must be bathed\nagain in a solution of sulphate of soda, which\nwill remove all the chlorine, and leave the\nleaves white and clean. They will, however,\nhave lost all firmness of texture, owing to the\nremoval of the size from the paper. It will,\ntherefore, be advisable to give a bath of gela-\ntine and alum made with boiling water, to\nwhich may be added a little tobacco, or any\nother simple substance, to restore the tint of\nthe now too white paper.\n4. Immerse each mildewed sheet separately in\na solution made in the proportions of lb.\nchloride of lime to 1 pt. of water. Let it stand,\nwith frequent stirring, for 24 hours, and then\nstrain through muslin, and finally add 1 qt.\nwater. Mildew and other stains will be found\nto disappear very quickly, and the sheets must\nthen be passed separately through clear water,\nor the chloride of lime, if left in the paper,\nwill cause it to rot. Old prints, engravings,\nand every description of printed matter may\nbe successfully treated in the same manner.\n5. I have in my time cleaned many hun-\ndreds. The plan which I adopt is as follows\nI place them, one or two at a time, in a shallow\ndish, and pour water over them until they are\ncompletely soaked or saturated with it. I then\ncarefully pour off the water, and pour on to the\nprints a solution of chloride of lime (1 part liquor\ncalcis chloratae to 39 parts of water). As a\ngeneral rule, the stains disappear as if by magic,\nbut occasionally they are obstinate. When that\nis the case, I pour on the spot pure liquor calcis\nchloratae, and if that does not succeed, I add a\nlittle dilute nitro-muriatic acid. I have never\nhad a print which has not succumbed to this\ntreatment in fact, as a rule, they become too\nwhite. As soon as they are clean they must be\ncarefuhy washed with successive portions of\nwater until the whole of the chlorine is got rid\nof. They should then be placed in a very\nweak solution of isinglass or glue, and many\ncollectors color this solution with coffee\ngrounds, etc., to give a yellow tint to the print.\nThey should be dried between folds of blotting\npaper, either in a press or under a heavy book,\nand finally ironed with an ordinary flat iron to\nrestore the gloss, placing clean paper between\nthe iron and the print. G rease stains are much\nmore difficult. I find benzine best. Small\ngrease spots may be removed by powdered\nFrench chalk being placed over them, a piece\nof clean blotting paper over the chalk, and a\nhot iron over that. F. Andrews.\n6. Mildew often arises from the paste used to\nattach the print. Take a solution of alum of\nmedium strength and brush on back and face\nof the engraving 2 or 3 coats, then make the\nframe air-tight by pasting a strip ot Daper all\nround the inside of glass, leaving about in.\noverlapping (taking care not to paste the paper\non the glass so as to be seen from the front),\nthen place your glass in frame, take the over-\nlapping piece and paste to side of rabbet place\nyour picture in position, spring back board in,\nand then place a sheet of strong paper (brown)\non the table, damp it, and paste round back of\nframe, lay it on to the paper, leave to dry, cut\nlevel. If this does not answer, there will be no\nhelp for it, but dust off as the mould accumu-\nlates. Do not brush on surface with the alum\nif the engraving is colored, but several coats\non the back.\n7. It has been found that ozone bleaches\npaper perfectly without injuring the fiber in\nthe least. It can be used for removing mildew\nand other stains from engravings that have\nbeen injured by hanging on the walls of damp\nrooms. The engraving should be carefully\nmoistened and suspended in a large vessel par-\ntially filled with ozone. The ozone may be\ngenerated by putting pieces of clean phospho-\nrus in the bottom of the vessel partially cov-\nered with water or by passing electric sparks\nthrough the air in the vessel.\n8. If the engravings are very dirty, take two\nparts of common salt and one part common\nsoda, and pound them together until very fine.\nLay the engraving on a board, and fasten it\nwith drawing pins, and then spread the mix-\nture dry equally over the surface to be cleaned.\nMoisten the whole with warm water and a little\nlemon juice, and, after it has remained about a\nminute, or even less, tilt the board up on its\nend, and pour over it a kettleful of boiling\nwater, being careful to remove all the mixture,\nand avoid rubbing. If the engraving is not\nvery dirty, the less soda used the better, as it\nhas a tendency to give the engraving a yellow\nhue.\nEmery, to Cleanse after Using.— Boil with\ncaustic potash, stirring constantly, then wash\nwith acid, dilute and dry.\nTo Remove Grease from Emery Wheels.— Wash\nwith bisulphide of carbon.\nLightning Eradicator. Strong ammonia\nwater, 4 oz.; water, 2 qts.; saltpeter, 1 oz.;\nmottled soap, 2 oz.; the soap must be finely\nshaved. Mix thoroughly and allow the pre-\nparation to stand for several days before\nusing. Cover any grease spot with this pre-\nparation, rub well and rinse with clean water.\nFeathers, to Clean.— 1. To clean feathers from\ntheir own animal oil, steep them in 1 gal. of\nwater mixed with 1 lb. of lime, stir them well,\nand then pour off the water, and rinse the\nfeathers in cold spring water. To clean feath-\ners from dirt, simply wash them in hot water\nwith soap. Rinse them in hot water.\n2. To Clean White Ostrich Feathers. 4 oz.\nwhite curd soap cut small, dissolved in 4 pt.\nwater, rather hot, in a basin. Make the solution\ninto a lather by beating it with birch rods or\nwires. Introduce the feathers and rub well with\nthe hands for five or six minutes. After the\nsoaping, wash in clean water as hot as the\nhand can bear. Shake until dry.\n3. Slightly soften the soiled feathers with\nwarm water, using a camel s hair brush. Next\nraise each feather with a flat piece of wood or\npaper knife, and clean them with spirits of\nwine. L)ry with plaster of Paris, and after-\nward brush them carefully with a dry camel s\nhair brush,\n4. Make a strong solution of salt in water,\nsaturate a large and thick cloth with it. Wrap\nthe bird up in the damp cloth in as many folds\nas you can, not disarranging the plumage. Look\nat the bird in six hours, and if not long dried\non the blood will be soft if not soft, keep it in\nthe cloth longer, and rewet it. When soft, rub\nout with gentle pressure, ptitting something\nhard under each feather with blood on, and\nrubbing with the back of a knife. Of course\neach feather must be done separately.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0115.jp2"},"116":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n104\nCleansing.\n5. Col. Wragge treated the soiled plumage of\nalbatrosses, Cape petrel, etc., by simply wash-\ning the feathers in rain water, after the pro-\ncess of skinning, and then laying a thick mix-\nture of starch and water over the portion to\nbe cleansed. Next he laid the birds aside, and\nleft them till the plastering of starch had be-\ncome thoroughly dry. He then removed the\ndry plaster by tapping it, and found that the\nfeathers had become much cleaner. Old speci-\nmens may be cleaned in this way. Feathers\nmay be set by just arranging them naturally\nwith a needle or any pointed instrument.\n6. White.— Dissolve 4 oz. of white soap in 2 qt.\nof boiling water, put it into a large basin or\nsmall pan, and beat to a strong lather with a\nwire egg beater or a small bundle of birch\ntwigs use while warm. Hold the feather by\nthe quill with the left hand, dip it into the soap\nliquor and squeeze it through the right hand,\nusing a moderate degree of pressure. Continue\nthis operation until the feather is perfectly\nclean and white, using a second lot of soap\nliquor if necessary. Rinse in clean hot water\nto take out the soap, and afterward in cold\nwater in which a small quantity of blue has\nbeen dissolved Shake well, and dry bef oi e a\nmoderate fire, shaking it occasionally, that it\nmay look full and soft when dried. Before it\nis quite dry, curl each fiber separately with a\nblunt knife or ivory paper folder.\nTo Purify Feathers for Beds, Pillows, etc.\nPrepare a quantity of lime water in the follow-\ning manner: Well mix 1 lb. of quicklime in\neach gal. of water required, and let it stand\nuntil all the undissolved lime is precipitated, as\na fine powder, to the bottom of the tub or pan,\nthen pour off the clear liquor for use. The\nnumber of gallons to be prepared will, of\ncourse, depend on the quantity of feathers to\nbe cleaned. Put the feathers into a clean tub,\npour the lime water on them, and well stir them\ni n it until they all sink to the bottom. There\nshould then be sufficient of the lime water to\ncover them to a depth of 3 in. Let them stand\nin this for three or four days, then take them\nout, drain them in a sieve, and afterward well\nwash and rinse them in clean water. Dry on\nnets having a mesh about the same size as a\ncabbage net; shake the net occasionally, and\nthe dry feathers will fall through. When they\nare dried, beat them well to get rid of the dust.\nIt will take about three weeks to clean and dry\na sufficient quantity for a bed. This process was\nawarded the prize offered by the Society of\nArts.\nTo Bender Feathers White and to Bemove the\nGray Color.— Feathers must be cleansed by im-\nmersing for a short time in naphtha or benzine.\nRinse in a second dish of the same and dry in\nthe air. Then bleach by exposing in a box to\nthe vapor of burning sulphur in a moist atmo-\nphere.\nFlannels, to Wash.— Shave a little white soap\ninto a pail, and pour on it water nearly boiling\nhot to dissolve it, adding, if you choose, a table-\nspoonful of spirits of ammonia. Pour the hot\nsuds upon the flannels in a tub, and use a good\npounder or a machine, as the water needs to be\nof too high a temperature f or the hands. Wring\nthe flannels, and put them into a second water,\nlike the first, except with less soap, and use\nagain the pounder or machine. Rub the soiled\nspots in the suds as hot as you can bear, but\nnever rub soap on the spots. Wring the flannels\nas dry as you can with a good wringer, and put\nthem on a line in a brisk, drying air. The hot-\nter they are when wrung and the sooner they\ndry the better. Their color may be improved\nby a little bluing; and if they are well ironed\nbefore getting quite dry, fulling is prevented.\nFlannel Shrinking. All flannel ought pro-\nperly to be shrunk before it is cut out and made\nup into garments. The process is quite simple.\nSoak the flannel for a few minutes in warm\nwater, then rub some good laundry soap over\nevery inch of it, din it in the water and knead\nit, or shake it up and down; do not scrub. After\nthe washing, let the flannel be thoroughly\nrinsed in warm water. It must be remembered\nthat boiling or hot water should never touch\nflannel. Wring carefully and dry slowly. On no\naccount allow flannel to be dried in an over-\nheated drying closet or before a fire.\nFlannel Washing. To wash flannel or flannel\ngarments, prepare a good lather in hot water;\nwhen just warm throw in your flannel and work\nit up and down, backward and forward. Scrub-\nbing must be avoided, and no soap should be\nactually rubbed on it, as this will induce\nfurther shrinkage. Rinse in warm water, twice\nif necessary. Never wash or rinse in hot or\ncold water, as they both cause the flannel to\nshrink suddenly.\nFlannel Blankets, to Wash.— Put the soiled\nblankets to soak for fifteen minutes in plain soft\nwarm water. Prepare a soft jelly with first class\nlaundry soap and boiling water, 1 lb. of soap for\nevery blanket. Pour this into a tub of warm\nwater, let it melt and lather it up well with the\nhand. Wring the blankets from the soaking\ntub, and throw them into the lather; stir them\nabout and leave to soak ten minutes, then hand\nrub every inch of the blankets, paying especial\nattention to stains. Take them out and wring,\nthen rinse in warm water twice. Dry well,\nbut do not expose them to great heat. When\ndry stretch them in every direction, and rub ah\nover with a piece of clean rough flannel. This\nmakes them fluffy and soft. If very dirty, a\nlittle borax may be added to the water, but no\nsoda or bleaching powder should ever be used.\nFlannels, to Iron.— Most flannels are the better\nfor not being ironed, but in some cases it is\nnecessary to do so. The proper way is to dry the\nflannels, then spread them on an ironing board,\ncover them Avith a slightly damp cloth, and iron\nover this, pressing down heavily. The iron\nmust not be too hot.\nFleckenwasser.— (Bronner.) Cleansing fluid (lit-\nerally spot or stain water) for the removal of\ngrease and dirt spots. Benzine only.\nFleckenwasser Englisches.— English cleansing\nfluid for removing acid, resin, wax, tar, and\ngrease spots. A mixture of 95% alcohol, 100\ngrm.; liq. ammon., sp. gr. 875, 30 grm.; benzine,\n4 grm.— Artus.\nFloors, to Scour.— Clean sand, 12 parts; soft\nsoap, 8 parts; lime, 4 parts. Use a scrubbing\nbrush and rinse.\nFly Specks, to Bemove from Brass, etc.— If you\ncannot wash off the fly specks with soap and\nwarm water on a cloth, there is no way that an\namateur can refinish lampwork with any sat-\nisfaction. To do this, the lamp must be taken\napart and the brasswork boiled in caustic soda\nto remove all oil and varnish; then rinse in hot\nwater and dip in strong nitric acid for a few\nseconds only, when it will come out clean and\nbright; then rinse clean in boiling water. Dry\nin sawdust, brush off, and lacquer with thin\nshellac varnish. The metal must be warm and\nperfectly free from grease.\nFly Specks from Bronze, to Bemove.— Laven-\nder oil, 1 drm.; alcohol, 1 oz.; water, 1\\ oz. Use\na soft sponge and proceed quickly with little\nrubbing.\nFly Specks, to Bemove from Gilding.— Old ale\nis a good thing to wash any gilding with, as it\nacts at once on the fly dirt. Apply it with a\nsoft rag.\nFrames, to Benovate.— You may improve them\nby simply washing them with a small sponge\nmoistened with spirits of* wine or oil of tur-\npentine, the sponge only to be sufficiently wet\nto take off the dirt and fly marks. They should\nnot be wiped afterward, but left to dry of\nthemselves.\nFruit and Wine Stains.— 1. White cotton or\nlinen, fumes of burning sulphur, warm chlorine\nwater. Colored cottons or woolens, wash with\ntepid soapsuds of ammonia. Silks the same,\nwith very gentle rubbing.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0116.jp2"},"117":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n105\nCleansing.\n2. First rub the spot on each side with hard\nsoap and then lay on a thick mixture of starch\nand cold water. Rub this mixture of starch\nwell into the spot, and afterward expose it to\nthe sun and air. If the stain has not disap-\npeared at the end of three or four days, repeat\nthe process.\n3. Stains of wine may be quickly and easily\nremoved from linen, by dipping- the parts\nwhich are stained into boiling milk. The milk\nto be kept boiling until the stain disappears.\n4. Most fruits yield juices which, owing to\nthe acid they contain, permanently injure the\ntone of the dye; but the greater part may be\nremoved without leaving a stain, if the spot be\nrinsed in cold water in which a few drops of\naqua ammonia have been placed, before the\nspot has dried. Wine stains on white materials\nmay be removed by rinsing with cold water,\napplying locally weak solution chloride of lime,\nand again rinsing in an abundance of water.\nSome fruit stains yield only to soaping with the\nhand, followed by fumigation with sulphurous\nacid; but the latter process is inadmissible with\ncertain colored stuffs. If delicate colors are\ninjured by soapy or alkaline matters, the stains\nmust be treated with colorless vinegar of\nmoderate strength.\n5. To remove fruit and wine stains from\ntable linen moisten with dilute sulphuric acid\nand then rub with aqueous solution of sulphite\nor hyposulphite of soda in water,\n6. Spread the stained part over a bowl or\nbasin, and pour boiling water through it; or\nrub on salts of lemon and pour boiling water\nthrough until the stain disappears or becomes\nvery faint.\nFurniture, how to Improve the Appearance of.\n—Mr. G. J. Henkels, of Philadelphia, Pa., sug-\ngests that when the polish on new furniture\nbecomes dull it can be renewed by the follow-\ning process: Take a soft sponge, wet with\nclean cold water, and wash over the article.\nThen take a soft chamois skin and wipe it clean.\nDry the skin as well as you can by wringing it\nin the hands, and wipe the water off the furni-\nture, being careful to wipe only one way. Never\nuse a dry chamois on varnished work. If\nthe varnish is defaced and shows white marks,\ntake linseed oil and turpentine in equal parts\nshake them well in a phial and apply a very\nsmall quantity on a soft rag until the color is\nrestored then with a clean soft rag wipe the\nmixture entirely off. In deeply carved work\nthe dust cannot be removed with a sponge.\nUse a stiff haired paint brush instead of a\nsponge. The cause of varnished furniture be-\ncoming dull, and the reason why oil and tur-\npentine restore its former polish, it will be ap-\npropriate to explain. The humidity of the\natmosphere and the action of gas cause a bluish\nwhite coating to collect on all furniture, and\nshow conspicuously on bright polished surfaces,\nsuch as mirrors, pianos, cabinet ware, and pol-\nished metal. It is easily removed as previously\ndirected. The white scratches on furniture\nare caused by bruising the gum of which var-\nnish is made. Copal varnish is composed of gum\ncopal, linseed oil, and turpentine or benzine.\nCopal is not soluble in alcohol, as other gums\nare, but is dissolved by heat. It is the founda-\ntion of varnish, as the oil is used only to make\nthe gum tough, and the turpentine is required\nonly to hold the other parts in a bquid state,\nand it evaporates immediately after its applica-\ntion to furniture. The gum then becomes hard\nand admits of a fine polish. Thus, when the\nvarnish is bruised, it is the gum that turns\nwhite, and the color is restored by applying the\noil and turpentine. If the mixture is left on\nthe furniture, it will amalgamate with the var-\nnish and become tough. Therefore the neces-\nsity of wiping it entirely off at once. To var-\nnish old furniture, it should be rubbed with\npulverized pumice stone and water to take off\nthe old surface, and then varnish with varnish\nreduced, by adding turpentine, to the consist-\nency of cream. Apply with a stiff haired brush.\nIf it does not look well, repeat the rubbing\nwith pumice stone, and when dry, varnish it\nagain.\nFor a crack, a worm eaten hole, or a deep\nflaw, prepare the proper dust, by the admix-\nture of brick dust in flour (also kept ready), or\nwhiting or ocher, or any required tint. Then\ntake well cooked glue, and on a house plate\nstir it in slowly while hot, Avith sufficient pow-\nder for your work. Dab the hole or crack with\nyour glue brush, then with a putty knife stir\nabout the mixture on the plate, taking care\nyou have the right color. When sure on this\npoint, take some of the cement on the end of\nthe knife and insert it in the desired place.\nThen use as much pressure as you possibly can\nwith the blade, and keep smoothing at it.\nSprinkle a little of the dry powder on the spot.\nWhen thoroughly dry, sand paper the surface\nwith an old used piece, so as not to abrade the\njoint. You can then varnish the mending.\nWhere weevil and Avood worms haA*e devoured\nthe furniture, cautiously cut out the part till\na sound place be reached. Poison the wood\nwith a solution of sulphate of copper injected\ninto the hoUew. Let it dry. Cut an angular\npiece of same wood from your board, and with\na sharp chisel make a suitable aperture for its\nreception. Fix it with glue. When thoroughly\ndry, Avork with casing tools or rasp and glass,\nscraping till the new bit of work exactly\nmatches the old.\nPolish for Removing Stains from Furniture.\n1 pt. of 98$ alcohol, ground resin Yz oz., gum\nshellac V/% oz. After the resin and shellac cut\nin the alcohol, mix in 1 pt. of linseed oil, and\ngive the whole a good shaking. Apply with a\ncloth or newspaper, and polish with a flannel\nafter applying the solution.\nFurs, to Clean Da rk.— Sable, chinchilla, squir-\nrel, fitch, etc. Heat a quantity of new bran in\na pan, taking- care that it does not burn, stir\nconstantly. When well heated rub thoroughly\ninto the fur. Repeat two or three times. Shake\nthe fur and brush briskly until free from dust.\nFurs, to Clean Light. White furs, ermine,\netc., may be cleaned in the following way Lay\nthe fur on a table and rub with bran, moistened\nwith warm water. Rub until dry, then rub\nwith dry bran. Use flannel for rubbing with\nthe wet bran and book muslin for the dry.\nAfter using the bran, rub with magnesia. Dry\nflour may be used instead of wet bran. Rub\nagainst the Avay of the fur.\nGilt Picture Frames, to Clean— 1. Fly marks\ncan be cleaned off Avith soap and water used\nsparingly on end of finger co\\ ered by piece of\nrag. When all cleared off, rinse with cold\nAvater, and dry Avith chamois leather next buy\na pound of common size and two penny paint\npans. Boil a little of the size in one of the pans\nAvith as much water as will just coA er it. When\nboiled, strain through muslin into clean pan,\nand apply thinly to frames Avith camel hair\nbrush (.called technically a dabber Take\ncare you do not give the frames too much water\nand elbOAV grease. On no account use gold\nsize, as it is used only in regilding, and if put\non over the gold avouM make it dull and sticky.\n2. Dissolve a Aeiy small quantity of salts of\ntartar in a Avine bottle of water, and with a\npiece of cotton wool soaked in the liquid dab\nthe frames Aery gently, no rubbing on any ac-\ncount or you will take off the gilt, then stand\nup the frames so that water Avill drain away\nfrom them conveniently, and syringe them\nAvith clean Avater. Care must be taken that the\nsolution is not too strong.\n3. If ne\\v gold frames are A*arnished with the\nbest copal Aarnish it improA es their appearance\nconsiderably, and fly marks can then be Avashed\noff carefully Avith a sponge. The frames also\nlast many times longer. It also improA r es old\nframes to A arnish them with it.\n4. Gilt frames may be cleaned by simply\nwashing them with a smalL sponge, moistened","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0117.jp2"},"118":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n106\nCleansing.\nwith hot spirits of wine or oil of turpentine,\nthe sponge only to be sufficiently wet to take\noff the dirt and fly marks. They should not\nafterward be wiped, but left to dry of them-\nselves.\n5. Old ale is a good thing to wash any gilding\nwith, as it acts at once upon the fly dirt. Ap-\nply it with a soft rag but for the ins and outs\nof carved work, a brush is necessary wipe it\nnearly dry, and don t apply any water. Thus\nwill you leave a thin coat of the glutinous isin-\nglass of the finings on the face of the work,\nwhich will prevent the following flies faeces\nfrom, fastening to the frame, as they otherwise\nwould do.\nGilt Mountings, to Clean.— Gilt mountings,\nunless carefully cleaned, soon lose their luster.\nThey should not be rubbed; if slightly tar-\nnished, wipe them off with a piece of Canton\nflannel, or, what is better, remove them if pos-\nsible, and wash in a solution of J^ oz. of borax\ndissolved in 1 lb. of water, and dry them with a\nsoft linen rag their luster may be improved\nby heating them a little and rubbing with a\npiece of Canton flannel.\nGlass Cleaning Preparation.— Photographers\nwill find the following a useful glass-cleaning\npreparation Water, 1 pt.; sulphuric acid,\noz.; bichromate of potash, oz. The glass\nplates, varnished or otherwise, are left for 10\nor 12 hours, or as much longer as desired, in\nthis solution, then rinsed in clean water and\nwiped dry with soft white paper. The liquid\nquickly removes silver stains from the skin\nwithout any of the attendant dangers of\ncyanide of potassium.\nGlass, to Clean.— 1. To clean glass in frames,\nwhen the latter are covered or otherwise so\nfinished that water cannot be used, moisten\ntripoli with brandy, rub it on the glass while\nmoist, and when dry rub off with a silk rag to\nprevent the mixture injuring the cloth on the\nframe, use strips of tin bent to an angle; set\nthese on the frame with one edge on the glass\nwhen the frames are of a character that will\nnot be injured by water, rub the glass with\nwater containing a little liquid ammonia and\npolish with moist paper.\n2. Glass Bottles.— If vessels are oily or other-\nwise greasy, they should not be washed with\nwater, but wiped with dry tow, or a dry dirty\ncloth, so as to remove as much grease as pos-\nsible. By changing the cloth for one that is\nclean, the vessel can be wiped until all traces\nof grease disappear.\n3. A strong solution of an alkali such as pearl-\nash may be used, whereby the removal of the\ngrease is materially facilitated.\n4. If a vessel be soiled by resin, turpentine,\nresinous varnishes, etc., it should be washed\nwith a strong alkaline solution, and rubbed by\nmeans of the wire and tow.\n5. If the alkali fail to act, a little sulphuric\nacid may be employed with advantage. The\nlatter acid will also be found advantageous in\nremoving pitch and tar from vessels of glass.\nNitric or sulphuric acids may be employed to\nclean flasks which have contained oil.\n6. A correspondent of the Philadelphia* Pho-\ntographer says: To clean a silver bottle, pour in\na strong solution of cyanide; shake a few times,\npour out, and rinse with water two or three\ntimes, and your bottle is perfectly clean. Keep\nthe solution, and filter and strengthen when\nrequired. By doing this you can sun your\nbath better in two hours than in a week s\nexposure in the dirty black bottles photo-\ngraphers appear to delight in.\n7. It would be easy for a practical brush\nmaker to construct a brush in the form of a\nhollow cone, which would reach the bottom of\nbottles; but the difficulty would be to get it\ninto the bottle without spoiling it (the brush).\nA brush composed of a single bundle of long\nhairs, something like a painter s sash tool, with\nthe bristles cut somewhat tapering, should\nanswer the purpose. The bottle must, of course,\nbe turned round with the hand, to bring every\npart into contact with the brush.\n8. Lead shot, where so used, often leave car-\nbonate of lead on the internal surface, and this\nis apt to be dissolved in the wine or other\nliquids afterward introduced, with poisonous\nresults and particles of the shot are some-\ntimes inadvertently left in the bottle. Fordos\nstates that clippings of iron wire are a better\nmeans of rinsing. They are easily had, and the\ncleaning is rapid and complete. The iron is at-\ntacked by the oxygen of the air, but the ferru-\nginous compound does not attach to the side of\nthe bottle, and is easily removed in washing.\nBesides, a little oxidized iron is not injurious\nto health. Fordos found that the small traces\nof iron left had no apparent effect on the color\nof red wines it had on white wines, but very\nlittle but he thinks it might be better to use\nclippings of tin for the latter.\n9. Take a small piece of the very finest and\nsoftest flannel without crease or seam, or a few\ninches of superfine broadcloth, dip this in pow-\nder blue, and with it clean your plate glass,\npolishing with a rag of soft silk or fine chamois\nleather.\nGlassware, Laboratory, to Cleanse.— Labora-\ntory flasks which have contained oil or fatty\nmatter may be easily cleansed by a solution of\npermanganate of potassa. To remove turpen-\ntine, petroleum, photogene, etc., wash with an\nounce or so of sulphuric acid and rinse with\nwater.\nTo Clean Discolored Glass.— Apply dilute nitric\nacid. Water of ammonia is also good.\nGloves, to Clean.— Ganteine.— A composition\nused to clean kid and other leather gloves.\n1. Curd soap (in small shavings), 1 part; water,\n3 parts mix with heat, and stir in essence of\ncitron, 1 part.— M. Buhan.\n2. Saponine.— Duvignau soap in powder, 250\nparts; water, 155 parts; dissolve with heat,\ncool, and add of eau de Javelle, 165 parts solu-\ntion of ammonia, 10 parts and rub the whole\nto a smooth paste. A small portion of either of\nthe above is rubbed over the glove with a piece\nof flannel (always in one direction) until it is\nsufficiently clean.\nKid Gloves, to Clean.— 1. Put them together\nwith a sufficient quantity of pure benzine in a\nlarge stoppered vessel, and shake the whole oc-\ncasionally, with alternate rest. If, on removing\nthe gloves, there remain any spots, rub them\nout with a soft cloth moistened with ether or\nbenzole. Dry the gloves by exposure to the\nair, and then place smoothly between glass\nplates at the temperature of boiling water until\nthe last traces of benzine are expelled. They\nmay then be folded and pressed between paper\nwith a warm iron. Another way is to use a\nstrong solution of pure soap in hot milk beaten\nup with the yelk of one egg to a pint of the\nsolution. Put the glove on the hand, and rub\nit gently with the paste, to which a little ether\nmay be added, then carefully lay by to dry.\nWhite gloves are not discolored by this treat-\nment, and the leather will be made thereby\nclean and soft as when new.\n2. Damp them slightly, stretch them gently\nover a wooden hand of appropriate size, and\nclean them with a sponge dipped in benzole, re-\ncently rectified oil of turpentine, or camphine.\nAs soon as they are dry, withdraw them gently\nfrom the stretcher, and suspend them in a cur-\nrent of air for a few days, or until they cease to\nsmell of the cleaning liquid used. Heat must\nbe avoided. The cleaning liquid should be used\nliberally, and the first dirty portion should be\nsponged off with clean liquid.\n3. Make a strong lather with curd soap and\nwarm water lay the glove flat on a board, the\nbottom of a dish, or other unyielding surface\ndip a piece of flannel in the lather, and well rub\nthe glove with it till all the dirt is out, turning\nit about so as to clean it all over. Dry in the\nsun or before a moderate fire. When dry they","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0118.jp2"},"119":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n107\nCleansing.\nwill look like old parchment, and should be\ngradually pulled out and stretched.\n4. Have a small quantity of milk in a cup or\nsaucer, and a piece of brown Windsor or gly-\ncerine soap in another saucer. Fold a clean\ntowel or other cloth three or four times thick,\nand spread the glove smoothly on the cloth.\nDip a piece of flannel in the milk, and rub it\nwell on the soap. Hold the glove firmly with\nthe left hand, and rub it with the flannel\ntoward the fingers. Continue this operation\nuntil the glove, if white, appears of a dirty yel-\nlow; or if colored, until it looks dirty and\nspoiled, and then lay it to dry. Gloves cleaned\nby this method will be soft, glossy and elastic.\n5. French Method.— Put the gloves on your\nhands, and wash them in spirits of turpentine\nuntil they are quite clean, rubbing them ex-\nactly as if washing your hands when finished,\nhang them in a current of air to dry and to\ntake off the smell of the turpentine.\n6. Eau de Javelle, 135 parts; ammonia, 8\nparts; powdered soap, 200 parts; water, 150\nparts. Make a soft paste, and use with a\nflannel.\n7. Wash them with soap and water; then\nstretch them on wooden hands, or pull them\ninto shape without wringing them next rub\nthem with pipe clay or yellow ocher, or a mix-\nture of the two in any required shade, made\ninto a paste with beer let them dry gradually,\nand when about half dry rub them weU, so as\nto smooth them and put them into shape then\ndry them, brush out the superfluous color,\ncover them with paper, and smooth them with\na warm iron. Other colors may be employed to\nmiY with the pipe clay besides yellow. ocher.\nGlove Cleaner.- Castile soap, white,. 3 troy oz.;\njavelle water, 2 fl. oz.; water. 2 fi. oz.; water of\nammonia, 1 drm. Dissolve the soap by the aid\nof heat in the water, and when nearly cold,\nadd the Javelle water and the water of ammo-\nma. The preparation should form a paste, to\nbe rubbed on the soiled part of the glove with\na piece of flannel. This receipt is in use in\nmany large cleaning establishments, and can be\nrecommended.\nKid Gloves, to Clean without Wetting.— 1. Stale\nbread is sometimes used for this purpose. The\ngloves are put on and the softer part of the\nbread is broken up into crumbs and the hands\nare rubbed one over the other as in the act of\nwashing, the crumbs being thus rubbed over\nall parts of the gloves. Spongy rubber is often\nused .for glove cleaning. It is applied in the\nsame manner as in cleaning drawings, i. e., it is\nrubbed over the soiled parts of the glove.\n2. Lay the gloves upon a clean board, make a\nmixture of dried fuller s earth and powdered\nalum, and pass them over on each side with a\nI stiff brush. Then sweep the dust off and\nsprinkle them well with dry bran and whiting\n1 and dust them well. This, if the gloves be not\nexceedingly soiled, will effectually cleanse\nthem- but if they are much soiled, take\nout the grease with crumbs of toasted bread\nand powder of burnt bone, then pass them\nj -over with a woolen cloth, dipped in fuller s\n1 earth or powdered alum.\nDoeskin, Wash Leather (Chamois), and Un-\ndressed Kid.— 1. Wash them in lukewarm soft\nwater, with a little Castile or curd soap, oxgall\nor bran tea; then stretch them on wooden\nhands, or pull them into shape without wring-\niner them; next rub them with pipe clay, yellow\nocher, or umber, or a mixture of them in any\nrequired shade, made into a paste with ale or\nbeer; let them dry gradually, and when about\nI half dry rub them well, so as to smooth them,\nI and put them into shape; when they are dry\n1 brush out the superfluous color, cover them\nwith paper and smooth them with a warm (not\nhot) iron.\n2. Take out the grease spots by rubbing them\nwith magnesia or with cream of tartar. Then\nwash them with soap dissolved in water as\ndirected for kid gloves, and afterward rinse\nthem, first in warm water and then in cold.\nDry in the sun, or before the fire. All gloves\nare better and more shapely if dried on glove\ntrees or wooden hands.\n3. Stretch them on a hand or lay them flat on\na table, and rub into them a mixture of finely\npowdered fuller s earth and alum; sweep it off\nwith a brush, sprinkle them with a mixture of\ndry bran and whiting, and lastly dust them off\nwell. This will not do if they are very dirty.\nGold Bronze, to Clean. Boil in a weak alkali\nprepared from an infusion of wood ashes. Then\nclean with a solution composed of equal parts\nnitric acid, water and alum.\nGold Detergent.— {Upton.) Quicklime, loz.;\nsprinkle it with a little hot water to slake it,\nthen gradually add 1 pt. boiling water, so as\nto form a milk. Next dissolve pearlash, 2 oz.,\nin boiling water, 1^ pt. Mix the two solutions,\ncover up the vessel, agitate occasionally for\nan hour, allow it to settle; decant the clear,\nput it into flat \\i pt. bottles, and cork them\nwell. Use to clean gilding either alone or di-\nluted with water. It is applied with a soft\nsponge, and then washed off with clean water.\nIt is essentially a weak solution of potassa and\nmaybe extemporaneously prepared by dilut-\ning solution of potassa with about five times its\nvolume.\nGold, Cleaning Dull.— A solution of 80 grm.\nchloride of lime, 80 grm. bicarbonate of soda,\nand 20 grm. common salt in 3 liters distilled\nwater is prepared and kept in well-closed bot-\ntles. The article to be cleaned is allowed to\nremain some short time in this solution (which\nis only to be heated in the case of very obsti-\nnate dirt), then taken out, washed with spirit,\nand dried in sawdust.\nGold and Silver, Removing Stains from.— Im-\nmerse for some time in a solution of J^ oz. cy-\nanide of potassium to 1 pt. rain water, and\nbrush off with prepared chalk.\nGold Lace, to Wash. It is placed over-\nnight in urine or wine and washed. Take V/^\npt. water and 1% pt. whisky, and a little\nground gum arabic and saffron. Applywith a\nbrush when the laces are stretched on a table.\nGranite, Removal of Stains from. 1. A paste\nof 1 oz. oxgall, 1 gill of strong solution of caus-\ntic soda, \\Y2 tablespoonful of turpentine, with\nenough pipe clay to make it thick and consist-\nent, scour well,\n2. Mix together J4 lb. whiting, 34 lh- soft soap,\n1 oz. washing soda, and a piece of sulphate of\nsoda as big as a walnut. Rub it over the sur-\nface you propose to treat, let it stand twenty-\nfour hours, and then wash off. If it succeeds,\ntry another portion.\n3. Smoke and soot stains can be removed\nwith a hard scrubbing brush and fine sharp\nsand, to which add a little potash.\n4. Use strong lye, or make a hot solution of\n3 lb. of common washing soda dissolved in 1\ngal. of water. Lay it on the granite with a\npaint brush.\nGrass Stains, to Remove.— Wash the stained\nplaces in clean, cold, soft water, without\nsoap, before the garment is otherwise wet.\nGrease, Removal of— I. It is impossible to\nclassify all the receipts under this heading.\nMany additional ones will be found under Spots\nand Stains below, others under Oil Stains.\n2. Fatty oils have a greater surface tension\nthan oil of turpentine, benzole or ether. Hence,\nif a grease spot on a piece of cloth be moist-\nened on the reverse side with one of these sol-\nvents, the tension on the greasy side is larger,\nand therefore the mixture of benzole and fat\nor grease will tend to move toward the main\ngrease spot. If we were to moisten the center\nof this spot with benzole, we should not re-\nmove it, but drive the grease upon the clean\nportion of the cloth. It is, therefore, neces-\nsary to distribute the benzole first over a cir-\ncle surrounding the grease spot, to approach\nthe latter gradually, at the same time having","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0119.jp2"},"120":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n108\nCleansing\nblotting- paper in contact with the spot to ab-\nsorb the fat immediately.\n3. Another method, namely, to apply a hot\niron on one side, while blotting- paper is ap-\nplied to the other, depends upon the fact that\nthe surface tension of a substance diminishes\nwith a rise of temperature. If, therefore, the\ntemperature at different portions or sides of\nthe cloth is different, the fat acquires a ten-\ndency to move from the hotter parts toward\nthe cooler.— Tlie Pharmacist.\n4. Grease and Oil.— For white linen or cotton\ngoods, use soap or weak lye. For colored cali-\ncoes, warm soapsuds. For woolens, soapsuds\nor ammonia. For silks, benzine, ether, am-\nmonia, magnesia, chalk, yelk of egg, with\nwater.\n5. Dissolve 1 oz. pearlash in 1 pt. water, and\nto this solution add a lemon cut into thin\nslices. Mix well, and keep the mixture in a\nwarm state for two days, then strain and bottle\nthe clear liquid for use. A small quantity of\nthis mixture poured on stains, occasioned by\neither grease, oil or pitch, will speedily remove\nthem. Afterward wash in clear water.\n6. Carbonate of magnesia— magnesia that has\nbeen previously calcined is best— is dried in an\noven and mixed with sufficient benzine to form\na soft, friable mass. In this state it is put into\na wide mouthed glass bottle, well stoppered and\nkept for use. It is spread pretty thickly over\nthe stains, and rubbed well to and fro with the\ntip of the finger. The small rolls of earthy\nmatter so formed are brushed off, and more\nmagnesia is laid on and left until the benzine\nhas evaporated entirely. Materials that will\nbear washing are then cleaned with water on\nsilks, alcohol or benzine should be used instead.\nThe process may be applied to textile fabrics\nof every description, except those containing\nvery much wool, to which the magnesia ad-\nheres very tenaciously. It may also be used\nfor stains, old or new, on all sorts of fancy\nwoods, ivory, parchment, etc., without risk of\ninjury. Ordinary writing ink is not affected\nby it, but letterpress quickly dissolves, owing\nto the absorption of the fatty matter in the ink.\n7. A method of cleansing greasy woolen or\ncotton rags and waste. The rags are thrown\ninto a closed revolving drum, with a quantity\nof perfectly dry and finely powdered plaster of\nParis; when the plaster has absorbed all the\ngrease, the whole is transferred to another re-\nvolving drum, pierced with holes, by which\nmeans the greater portion of the greasy plaster\nis got rid of. The operation is finished by beat-\ning the rags on a kind of wooden sieve.\n8. In the removal of grease from clothing,\nwith benzol or turpentine, people generally\nmake the mistake of wetting the cloth with\nthe turpentine and then rubbing it with a\nsponge or piece of cloth. In this way the fat is\ndissolved, but is spread over a greater space\nand is not removed the benzol or turpentine\nevaporates, and the fat covers a greater surface\nthan before. The way is to place soft blotting-\npaper beneath and on top of the grease spot,\nwhich is to be first thoroughly saturated with\nthe benzol, and then well pressed. The fat is\nthen dissolved and absorbed by the paper, and\nentirely removed from the clothing.\n9. Castile soap in shavings, 4 oz.; carbonate of\nsoda, 2 oz. borax, 1 oz. aqua ammonia, 7 oz.;\nalcohol, 3 oz.; snlphuric ether, 2 oz. Soft water\nenough to make 1 gal. Boil the soap in the\nwater until it is dissolved, and then add the\nother ingredients. Although it is not apparent\nwhat good 2 oz. of ether can do in 1 gal. of\nliquid, the mixture is said to be very efficient.\n10. Make a weak solution of ammonia by\nmixing the ordinary liquor ammonias of the\ndruggist with its own volume of cold water;\nand rub it well into the greasy parts, rinsing\nthe cloth in cold water from time to time until\nthe grease is removed. The ammonia forms a\nsoap with the fatty acias of the grease, which\nis soluble in water.\n11. On Paper.— Press powdered fuller s earth\nlightly upon the greasy spot, and allow it to\nsoak out the grease.\n12. Hannett saj*s the spots may be removed by\nwashing the part with ether, chloroform or\nbenzine, and placing between white blotting\npaper, then passing a hot iron over.\n13. A more expeditious and thought by some\nthe best way is to scrape fine pipe clay, mag-\nnesia, or French chalk on both sides of the\nstain, and apply a hot iron above, taking great\ncare that it is not too hot.\n14. After gently warming the paper, take out\nall the grease you can with blotting paper and\na hot iron, then dip a brush into essential oil of\nturpentine, heated almost to ebullition, and\ndraw it gently over both sides of the paper,\nwhich must be kept warm. Repeat the oper-\nation until all is removed, or as often as the\nthickness of the paper may render necessary.\nWhen all the grease is removed, to restore the\npaper to its former whiteness, dip another\nbrush in ether, chloroform, or benzine, and\napply over the stain, especially the edges of.it.\nThis will not affect printers 1 or common writ-\ning ink.\n15. Lay on a coat of I ndia rubber solution over\nthe spot, and leave it to dry. Afterward re-\nmove with a piece of ordinary India rubber.\nAny operation with ether, chloroform, or\nbenzine should never be conducted by candle\nlight, as their vapor is apt to kindle even at\nseveral feet from the liquid. No. 13 will remove\ngrease from colored calf. Even if the spot be on\nthe under side of the leather, it may thus be\nclearly drawn right through.\n16. Apply a solution of pearlash (in the pro-\nportion of 1 oz. pearlash to 1 pt. water) to oil-\nstained drawing paper.\n17. Grease can be removed from billiard or\nother cloths by a paste of fuller s earth and\nturpentine. This should be rubbed upon the\nfabric until the turpentine has evaporated, and\na white powder remains. The latter can be\nbrushed off, and the grease will have disap-\npeared.\n18. To Remove from Silk.— Use chloroform\nand a cotton cloth, finishing with a dry cloth.\nBenzine can also be used as well as French\nchalk. If chalk is used, place a hot iron over\nthe spot until the grease is removed.\n19. Spots of Grease.— On white goods, soap\nwater or alkalies; on dyed tissues of cotton,\nhot soap water; dyed tissues of wool, soap\nwater or ammonia; on silk, benzine, ether,\nammonia, magnesia, chalk, yelk of egg.\nGrease Extractor.— 1. Fuller s earth, 15 parts;\nFrench chalk, y%, part; yellow soap, 10 parts;\npearlash, 8 parts; mix thoroughly and make\nit into paste with spirits of turpentine. Color,\nif desired, with j^ellow ocher. Form into cakes.\n2. An earthy compound for removing grease\nspots is made as follows: Take fuller s earth,\nfree it from all gritty matter by elutriation\nwith water; mix with }4 lb. of the earth so pre-\npared y% lb. of soda, as much soap, and 8 yelks\nof eggs well beaten up, Avith y% lb. of purified\noxgall. The whole must be carefully tritur-\nated upon a porphyry slab, the soda with the\nsoap in the same manner as colors are ground,\nmixing in gradually the eggs and the oxgall\npreviously beaten together. Incorporate next\nthe soft earth by slow degrees, till a uniform\nthick paste be formed, which should be made\ninto balls or cakes of a convenient size and laid\nout to dry. A little of this detergent being\nscraped off with a knife, made into a paste with\nwater and applied to the stain, will remo /e it.\nCrocks and Jars, to Remove Grease from.— Use\nhot water and sal soda.\nGuttapercha, io Clean.— This can be done by\nusing a mixture of soap and powdered char-\ncoal, polishing afterward with a dry clo^h with\na little charcoal on it.\nHats, to Clean White Manila.— Sprinkle with\nwater and expose to the f umes of burning sul-\nphur in a tight box.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0120.jp2"},"121":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n109\nCleansing.\nHats, Felt, to Clean.— 1. Clean with ammonia\nand water if greasy, wash with fuller s earth.\nSize with glue size, and block while warm.\nGlue size made by diluting hot glue with hot\nwater. Apply inside, not outside the hat. The\nthicker the glue, the stiffer the hat.\n2. The stains of grease and paint may be re-\nmoved from hats by means of turpentine or\nbenzine, and if the turpentine leaves a mark,\nfinish with a little spirits of wine.\n3. To remove grease stains from silk hats, use\nfirst turpentine and then alcohol.\n4. Cleaning Panama Hats.— To renovate white\nstraw hats the following method has been re-\ncommended. Prepare two solutions as given\nI.— Sodium hyposulphite G. 10\nGlycerine 5\nAlcohol 10\nWater 75\nII —Citric acid G. 2\nAlcohol 10\nWater 90\nFirst sponge the straw hat with solution No.\nI., and lay aside in a moist room (cellar) for\ntwenty-four hours then apply solution No. II.\nand treat similarly as before. Finally the hat\nshould be gone over with a flatiron, not too\nhot. If very dirty, the hat must be cleaned\nwith some detergent and dried before begin-\nning the bleaching operation. Western Drug-\ngist.\nAlizarine Inks.— White goods, tartaric acid,\nthe more concentrated the older are the spots.\nOn colored cottons and woolens, and on silks,\ndilute tartaric acid is applied, cautiously.\nInk and IronMould, to Remove.— 1. Equal parts\nof cream of tartar and citric acid, powdered\nfine, and mixed together. This forms the salts\nof lemon as sold by druggists. Directions for\nusing i Procure a hot dinner plate, lay the part\nstained in the plate, and moisten with hot\nwater next rub in the above powder with the\nbowl of a spoon until stains disappear; then\nrinse in clean water, and dry.\n2. Place the stained part flat in a plate or\ndish, and sprinkle crystals of oxalic acid upon\nit, adding a little water the stains will soon\ndisappear, when the linen should be well wrung\nout in two or three changes of clean water.\n3. Dip the part in boiling water, and rub it\nwith crystals of oxalic acid, then soak in a\nweak solution of chloride of lime— say 1 oz. to\nthe quart Of water. Under any circumstances,\nas soon as the stain is removed, the linen should\nbe thoroughly rinsed in several waters.\n4. The Journal de Pharmacie d Anvers recom-\nmends pyrophosphate of soda for the removal\nof ink stains. This salt does not injure vegeta-\nble fiber, and yields colorless compounds with\nthe ferric oxide of the ink. It is best to first\napply tallow to the ink spot, then wash in a\nsolution of pyrophosphate until both tallow and\nink have disappeared.\n5. Thick blotting paper is soaked in a concen-\ntrated solution of oxalic acid and dried. Laid\nimmediately on a blot, it takes it out without\nleaving a trace behind.\n6. Tin chloride, 2 parts water, 4 parts. To\nbe applied with a soft brush, after which the\npaper must be passed through cold water.\n7. Hydrochloric acid and hot water, in the\nproportion of 8 of hot water to 1 of acid if not\nstrong enough, add more acid when clear of\nstain, wash well and boil, to remove all traces\nof acid.\n8. A weak solution of chloride of zinc.\n9. To remove from clothes use a mixture of\n4 parts of tartar and 2 parts of powdered alum.\nThis is not injurious to clothes. Other stains\nmay be removed with it.\n10. To remove a blot, dip a camel hair brush\nin water, and rub over the blot, letting the\nwater remain on a few seconds then make as\ndry as you can with blotting paper, then rub\ncarefully with India rubber. Repeat the\noperation if not all removed. For lines, circles,\netc., dip the ink leg of your instruments in\nwater, open the pen rather wider than the line,\nand trace over, using blotting paper and India\nrubber, as for a blot. Applicable to drawing-\npaper, tracing paper, and tracing linen. If the\nsurface is a little rough after, polish with your\nnail.\n11. Printer s Ink, to Remove.— Tut the stained\nparts of the fabric into a quantity of benzine,\nthen use a fine, rather stiff brush, with fresh\nbenzine. Dry and rub bright with warm water\nand curd soap The benzine will not injure the\nfabric or dye.\n12. Iron Spots and Black Ink. White goods,\nhot oxalic acid, dilute muriatic acid, with little\nfragments of tin. On fast-dyed cottons and\nwoolens, citric acid is cautiously and repeatedly\napplied. Silks, impossible.\nMany additional receipts for removing ink\nstains will be found under Inks. See also\nMarble below.\nIodine Stains on Paper.— 1. Apply solution of\npure sodium hyposulphite, and then strong\nammonia water, by means of blotting paper\nremove excess by pressing between sheets of\nbibulous paper moistened with water, and dry\nbetween clean warm dry blotting pads.\n2. Iodine stains may be removed by alcohol.\nIron. See also Rust, in the general alphabet.\nIron and Steel.— 1. Take a spongy piece of\nfig tree wood and well saturate it with a\nmixture of sweet oil and finely powdered\nemery, and with this well rub all the rusty\nparts. This will not only clean the article, but\nwill at the same time polish it, and so render\nthe use of whiting unnecessary.\n2. Bright iron or steel goods (as polished\ngrates and fire irons may be preserved from\nrust in the following manner: Having first\nbeen thoroughly cleaned, they should be\ndusted over with powdered quicklime, and\nthus left until wanted for use. Coils of piano\nwire are covered in this manner, and will keep\nfree from rust for many years.\n3. Dissolve oz. camphor and 1 lb. hog s\nlard, and take off the scum then mix with the\nlard as much black lead as will give the mix-\nture an iron color. Rub the articles all over\nwith this mixture, and let them lie for\ntwenty-four hours; then dry with a linen\ncloth, and they will keep clean for months.\n4. Table knives which are not in constant\nuse should be put in a case containing a depth\nof about 8 in. of quicklime. They ai^e to be\nplunged into this to the top of the blades, but\nthe lime must not touch the handles.\n5. Steel bits that are tarnished, but not\nrusty, can be cleaned with rotten stone, com-\nmon hard soap, and a woolen cloth.\nIron, to Clean. To clean iron parts of\nmachinery, tools, etc., two to three cents,\nworth of paraffine chipped fine are added to\none liter petroleum in a stoppered bottle, and\nduring two or three days from time to time\nshaken up until the paraffine is dissolved. To\napply it, the mixture is well shaken, spread\nupon the metal to be cleaned by means of a\nwoolen rag or brush, and on the following day\nrubbed off with a dry woolen rag.\nIi-on Mould. See Ink Stains above and also\nSpots and Stains below.\nYellow stains, commonly called iron mould,\nare removed from linen by hydrochloric arid\nor hot solution of oxalic acid. Wash well in\nwarm water afterward.\nIron Bust, to Remove— 1 This may be removed\nby salt mixed with a little lemon juice.\n2. Salts of lemon, mixed with warm water\nand rubbed over the mark, will, most prob-\nably, remove the stains.\n3. Throw on the stain a small quantity of the\ndry powder of magnesia, rubbing it slightly in\nwith the finger, leaving it there for an hour or\ntwo, and then brushing it off, when it will be\nfound that the stain has quite disappeared.\n4. Fresh ink and the soluble salts of iron pro-\nduce stains which, if allowed to dry, and esp","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0121.jp2"},"122":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n110\nCleansing.\ncially if afterward the material has been\nwashed, are difficult to extract without\ninjury to the ground. When fresh, such\nstains yield rapidly to a treatment with moist-\nened cream of tartar, aided by a little friction,\nif the material or. color is delicate, iftbe\nground be white, oxalic acid, employed in the\nform of a concentrated aqueous solution, will\neffectually remove fresh iron stains.\nIvory, Removal of Smoke Stains from.— Im-\nmerse in benzine if burned, there is no rem-\nedy.\nJet, to Clean.— Remove all dust with a very\nsoft brush, touch tbe jet with a bit of cotton,\nmoistened with a little good oil, polish with\nwash leather. Clean with great care, as the jet\nis often brittle.\nKerosene Oil, to Remove from Carpets.— Spread\nover the stain above and below warm pipe clay,\nand allow it to remain twenty-four hours; then\nbrush it off and beat out the carpet.\nKnives, Stains to Remove.— Cut a solid potato\nin two, dip one of the pieces in brick dust, such\nas is usually used for knife cleaning, and rub\nthe blade with it.\nLace,to Wash.—l. Cover an ordinary wine bot-\ntle with fine flannel, stitching it firmly round the\nbottle. Tack one end of the lace to the flannel,\nthen roll it very smoothly round the bottle and\ntack down the other end, then cover with a piece\nof very fine flannel or muslin. Now rub it\ngently with a strong soap liquor, and, if the\nlace is very much discolored or dirty, fill the\nbottle with hot water and place it ina kettle or\nsaucepan of suds and boil it for a tew minutes,\nthen place the bottle under a tap of running\nwater to rinse out the soap. Make some strong\nstarch, and melt in it a piece of white wax and\na little loaf sugar. Plunge the bottle two or\nthree times into this and squeeze out the super-\nfluous starch with the hands; then dip the bot-\ntle in cold water, remove the outer covering\nfrom the lace, fill the bottle with hot water and\nstand it in the sun to dry the lace. When\nnearly dry take it very carefully off the bottle\nand pick it out with the fingers. Then lay it in\na cool place to dry thoroughly.\n2. First rip off the lace, carefully pick out the\nloose bits of thread, and roll the lace very\nsmoothly and securely round a clean black bot-\ntle, previously covered with old white linen,\nsewed tightly on. Tack each end of the lace\nwith a needle and thread to keep it smooth, and\nbe careful in wrapping not to crumple or fold in\nany of the scallops or pearlings. After it is on\nthe bottle, take some of the best sweet oil, and\nwith a clean sponge wet the lace thoroughly to\nthe inmost folds. Have ready in a wash kettle\na strong cold lather of clear water and Castile\nsoap. Fill the bottle with cold water, to pre-\nvent its bursting, cork it well and stand it up-\nright in the suds, with a string round the neck\nsecured to the ears or handle of the kettle, to\nprevent its knocking about and breaking while\nover the fire. Let it boil in the suds for an hour\nor more, till the lace is clean and white all\nthrough. Drain off the suds and dry it on the\nbottle in the sun. When dry, remove the lace\nfrom the bottle and roll it round a wide ribbon\nblock, or lay it in long folds; place it within a\nsheet of smooth white paper, and press it in a\nlarge book for a few days.\nLace, to Clean Gold and Silver.— 1. Sew the lace\nin a clean linen cloth, boil it in 1 qt. of soft\nwater and H lb. of soap, and wash it in cold\nwater. If tarnished, apply a little warm spirits\nof wine to the tarnished spots.\n2. A weak solution of cyanide of potassium\ncleans gold lace well.\nLace, to Revive Black.— I. Make some blacktea\nabout the strength usual for drinking and\nstrain it off the leaves. Pour enough tea\ninto a basin to cover the quantity of lace, let it\nstand ten or twelve hours, then squeeze it\nseveral times, but do not rub it. Dip it fre-\nquently into the tea, which will at length\nassume a dirty appearance. Have ready some\nweak gum water, and press the lace gently\nthrough it; then clap it for a quarter of an\nhour; after which, pin it to a towel in any\nshape which you wish it to take. When nearly\ndry, cover it with another towel and iron it\nwith a cool iron. The lace, if previously sound\nand discolored only, will after this process look\nas good as new.\n2. Wash the lace thoroughly in some good\nbeer; use no gum water; clap the lace well, and\nproceed with ironing and drying, as in the for-\nmer recipe.\nLeather, Wash (Chamois Skin), to Cleanse.— 1.\nA German optical journal recommends washing\nsoiled polishing leather in a weak solution of\nsoda and warm water, then rubbing a good deal\nof soap in the leather and letting it soften for\ntwo hours. It is afterward thoroughly washed\nuntil perfectly clean, and rinsed ina weaksolu-\ntion of warm water, soda, and yellow soap. It\nmust not be washed in clean water, or it will\nbecome so hard when dry that it cannot be used\nagain. It is the small quantity of soap remain-\ning in the leather which penetrates its smallest\nparticles and makes the leather as soft as silk.\nAfter the rinsing it is wrung out in a coarse\nhand towel and dried quickly. It is then\npulled in every direction and well brushed,\nafter which it is softer and better than most\nAvash leather when first bought. If rough lea-\nther is used to finish highly polished surfaces,\nit will often be observed that the surface is\nscratched or injured. This is caused by particles\nof dust and even grains of hard rouge that\nwere left in the leather. As soon as they are\nremoved with a clean brush and rouge, a per-\nfectly bright and beautiful finish can be ob-\ntained.\n2. Use a weak solution of soda and warm\nwater, rub plenty of soft soap into the leather,\nand allow it to remain in soak for two hours,\nthen rub it sufficiently, and rinse in a weak\nsolution of warm water, soda, and yellow soap.\nIf rinsed in water only, it becomes hard when\ndry and unfit for use. After rinsing, wring out\nin a rough towel, and dry quickly, then pull it\nabout and brush it well.\nLeather, to Clean.— Mix well together 1 lb. of\nFrench yellow ocher and a dessert spoonful of\nsweet oil; then take 1 lb. pipe clay and J4 lb.\nstarch. Mix with boiling water; when cold lay\non the leather; when dry, rub and brush well.\nLens, Removing Rust from a.— A lens some-\ntimes acquires a brown, rusty stain on the sur-\nface, which no amount of rubbing or cleaning\nwill remove. By applying a paste composed of\nputty powder, or very fine rouge, and water to\nthe stains, and then rubbing briskly with either\nthe point of the finger or the side of the hand,\nevery spot of rust or stain will be removed in a\nfew minutes. This applies to photographic or\nother lenses, except the object glass of a tele-\nscope, which would be irreparably damaged by\nsuch treatment.\nLenses, to Clean.— A very soft chamois skin is\nbest; if greasy, wipe with a little tissue paper\nwet with weak alkali. Lenses should be cleaned\nas rarely as possible use old linen, not silk.\nLime, Lues, Alkalies.— On white goods, simple\nwashing in water. On dyed tissues of cotton\nand wool, and on silk, weak nitric acid pov »*ed\ndrop by drop, and rub with the finger the spot\npreviously moistened.\nLinen, to prevent blistering in.— Blistering is\nalmost always due to bad starching, but occa-\nsionally to ironing the articles when too wet.\nEach article must be well starched through, and\nwhen about to iron damp it evenly, but do not\nwet it. Use a hot iron. Collars and cuffs that\nhave to be turned down should be fixed in the\nproper shape immediately after each one is\nironed, for then the starch is still flexible.\nLinen, to Restore Whiteness to Scorched.—\npt. of vinegar, 2 oz. of fuller s earth, 1 oz. of\ndried fowl s dung, 3^ oz. soap, the juice of 2\nlarge onions. Boil all these ingredients to-\ngether to the consistency of paste; spread the","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0122.jp2"},"123":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\nIll\nCleansing.\ncomposition thickly over the damaged part,\nand if the threads be not actually consumed,\nafter it has been allowed to dry on, and the\nplace has subsequently been washed once or\ntwice, every trace of scorching- will disappear.\nMachinery, to Clean. To clean iron parts of\nmachinery, tools, etc., about 10 grin, paraffin\nchipped fine are added to 1 liter petroleum in a\nstoppered bottle, and during two or three days\nfrom time to time shaken up until the paraffin\nis dissolved. To apply it the mixture is well\nshaken, spread upon the metal to be cleaned by\nmeans of a woolen rag or brush, and on the\nfollowing day rubbed off with a dry woolen\nrag.\nMahogany, Spots on.— Stains and spots may\nbe taken out of mahogany with a little aqua-\nfortis and water, or oxalic acid and water, rub-\nbing the part by means of cork, till the color\nis restored, observing afterward to wash the\nwood well with water, and to dry and polish as\nusual.\nMarble, to Bem ve Grease from.— I. Apply a\nlittle pile of whiting or fuller s earth saturated\nwith benzine, and allow it to stand some time.\n2. Or apply a mixture of 2 parts washing soda,\n1 part ground pumice stone, and 1 part chalk,\nall first finely powdered and made into a paste\nwith water rub well over the marble, and\nfinally wash off with soap and water.\nMarble, to Clean.— 1. Mix with water 5 parts\nsoda, 2i4 parts powdered chalk, 2]4 parts pum-\nice stone (powdered). Wash the spots with this\nmixture then wash off with soap and water.\n2. To extract oil from marble or stone, soft\nsoap, Vrft part; fuller s earth, 3 parts; potash,\nImpart, boiling water to mix. Apply to the\ngrease spots and let it remain two or three\nhours.\n3. Marble, to Remove Oil Stains in.— Stains in\nmarble caused by oil can be removed by apply-\ning common clay saturated with benzine. If\nthe grease has remained long enough it will\nbecome acidulated, and may injure the polish,\nbut the stain will be removed. Boil lb. soft\nsoap in 1 qt. water, very slowly, until the water\nis reduced to 1 pt. Apply this in the same\nmanner as the preceding.\n4. Take 2 parts common soda, 1 part pumice\nstone, and 1 part finely powdered chalk; sift it\nthrough a fine sieve and mix with water then\nrub it well all over the marble, and the stains\nwill be removed; then wash the marble over\nwith soap and water, and it will be as clean as\nit was at first.\n5. A bullock s gall, 1 gill soap lees, J^ gill tur-\npentine. Mix into a paste with pipe clay. Ap-\nply to the marble, allow it to remain two or\nthree days, then rub off.\n6. Cover the soiled part with a paste of quick-\nlime, moistened with a strong aqueous solution\nof sal soda for several hours then remove the\npaste, wash the parts thoroughly, and polish if\nnecessary.\n7. Common soda, 3 parts; pumice stone, 114\npart finely powdered chalk, iy 2 part sift very\nfine, and mix with water. Rub all over the\nmarble. Wash well with soap and water.\n8. If the marble is white, coat it with gum\narabic and expose to the sun. When it peels\noff wash with water, or make a paste with ful-\nler s earth and hot water, cover the spots\ntherewith, let it dry on, and next day scour\noff with soft soap. The luster can be restored\nby rubbing with a dry cloth.\n9. Be sure that the dust is all brushed from\nthe marble. Rub with the following: Whiting,\n6 oz.; soft soap, t oz.; soda, V/%, oz.; a piece of\nstone blue size of a large walnut. Mix and rub on\nthe marble with a flannel cloth. Let it remain\nfor twenty-four hours. Wash off and polish\nwith a piece of flannel.\n10. To take Stains from White Marble.— Tur-\npentine, 2 4 tablespoon! uls lye, 1^ gills; ox-\ngall, \\]4 oz.; pipe clay, q. s. to make a paste.\nApply the paste to the stain and let it remain\nfor several days. Iron mould or ink spots may\nbe taken out by dissolving in V/ 2 pt. rain-\nwater, V oz. oxalic acid, oz. butter anti-\nmony, flour sufficient to make the mixture of\na proper consistency. Put on with a brush,\nlet it remain a few days, wash off. Grease\nspots may be removed by applying common\nclay saturated with benzine.\n11. Ink Stains on Marble.— Dissolve 1 oz. anti-\nmony trichloride and 2 oz. oxalic acid in 1 qt\nof water. Add flour enough to make a paste.\nLeave on the spot for a few days until the spot\nis removed.\n12. Iron Stains in Marble.— Boil your marble\nin a strong solution of caustic soda, then take\nout, and rub well. Soon all the stains will\ncome out.\n13. Matches, to Remove Marks made by.\nSpots from sulphur and phosphorus caused by\nlucifer matches can be extracted from marble\nby carbon disulphide; or take 2 parts of com-\nmon soda, 1 part of pumice stone and 1 part\nof finely powdered chalk; sift it through a fine\nsieve and mix it with water: then rub it well\nall over the marble, and the stains will be re-\nmoved, then wash the marble over with soap\nand water, and it will be as clean as it was at\nfirst.\nMatting, to Clean.— Wash with water in which\nbran has been boiled, or in weak salt and water.\nDry it well with a cloth.\nMildew. 1. Well mix together a spoonful of\ntable salt, 2 of soft soap, 2 of powdered starch,\nand the juice of a lemon. Lay this mixture on\nboth sides of the stain with a painter s brush,\nand then lay the article on the grass, day and\nnight, until the stain disappears.\n2. Get a piece of flannel, dip it into whisky,\nand well rub the place marked; then iron on\nthe wrong side, taking care to put a piece of\ndamp cotton cloth between the iron and silk,\nand iron on the cotton cloth, which will pre-\nvent the silk assuming a shiny glazed appear-\nance.\n3. Wash clean and take every particle of soap\noff, then put the linen into a galvanized bath\nor tub full of clean cold water, procure a little\nchloride of lime, and tie it up in a muslin bag\nor piece of muslin, dissolve the lime in luke-\nwarm water by squeezing the bag, then pour\nthe water among the clothes. Stir and leave\nthem for 24 hours, but do not put too much\nlime in, or you will rot the clothes then well\nrinse in clean cold water.\n4. Hypochlorite of alumina is said to be one\nof the best remedies. Moisten with water, rub\nwell into the cloth, moisten again with dilute\nsulphuric acid (1 to 20), and, after half an hour,\nrinse thoroughly in soft water and then in\nwater containing about an ounce to the gallon\nof sulphite or hyposulphite of soda. A stiff\nbrush may be advantageously employed in\napplying the hypochlorite.\nMildew, to Prevent.— Housekeepers are often\ngreatly troubled and perplexed by mildew from\ndamp closets and from rust. By putting an\nearthen bowl or deep plate full of quicklime\ninto the closet, the lime will absorb the damp-\nness and also sweeten and disinfect the place.\nRats, mice, and many bugs that are apt to\ncongregate in damp places have a dislike to\nlime. As often as the lime becomes slaked\nthrow it on the compost heap if in the coun-\ntry, or into the ash barrel if in the city.\nMildew, to Prevent in Canvas, etc.— Dissolve\n1 lb. zinc sulphate in 40 gal. water, and then\nadd 1 lb. sal soda. When dissolved, 2 oz. tar-\ntaric acid are added. This* holds the partially\nseparated zinc carbonate without neutralizing\nthe excess of alkali used. The canvas, etc.,\nshould be soaked in this solution for 24 hours,\nand then dried without wringing.\nMildew, to Remove from Brickwork.— Build-\ners acid (hydrochloric acid) is often used for\nremoving white stains from brickwork. Its\nefficacy in the case of mildew would be doubt-\nful. A coat of linseed oil on the perfectly\ndry brick would have a good preventive ten-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0123.jp2"},"124":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n112\nCleansing.\ndency. Melted paraffin applied hot, and worked\nin with a paint burner would also be efficacious.\nPerhaps either of the last named applications\nwould destroy the mildew or white stain also.\nAcid used by an experienced man would not\ninjure the joints.\nCanvas, Rendering it Mildew-proof .—1. Satu-\nrate the cloth in a hot solution of soap lb.\nto a gal. of water); wring out and digest it for\ntwelve hours in solution of y% lb. alum to 1 gal.\nof water.\n2. Treatment with strong aqueous solution of\nalum or lead acetate answers very well.\nUse the following: Alum, 2 lb., dissolved in\n60 lb. water; blue vitriol, 2 lb., dissolved in 8 lb.\nwater; to which is added gelatine, 1 lb. dis-\nsolved in 30 lb. water; lead acetate, lb. dis-\nsolved in 30 lb. water. The solutions are all\nhot, and separately mixed, with the exception\nof the vitriol, which is added. See also receipts\nfor waterproofing cloth.\nTo Remove from Canvas. Wash with solu-\ntion of calcium hypochlorite (bleaching pow-\nder) in cold water or vinegar. Use plenty of\ncold water afterward.\nCotton Goods, to Remove from.— If the goods\nare colored, soak for twenty-four hours or\nmore in sour milk or buttermilk, then rinse\nin water, and wash in strong soapsuds. If the\ngoods are white, moisten the spots repeatedly\nwith Javelle water, diluted with volumes of\nwater; rinse well, then wash in strong soap-\nsuds, not too hot.\nGold Lace, to Remove Mildew from.— For this\npurpose, no alkaline liquors are to be used; for\nwhile they clean the gold, they corrode the silk,\nand change or discharge its color. Soap also\nalters the shade, and even the species, of cer-\ntain colors. But spirit of wine may be used\nwithout any danger of its injuring either color\nor quality, and in many cases proves as effectual\nfor restoring the luster of the gold as the cor-\nrosive detergents. But though the spirit of\nwine is the most innocent material employed\nfor this purpose, it is not in all cases proper.\nThe golden covering may be in some places\nworn off, or the base metal, with which it has\nbeen alloyed, may be corroded by the air, so as\nto have the particles of gold disunited, while\nthe silver underneath, tarnished to a yellow\nhue, may continue of a tolerable color; so it is\napparent that the removal of the tarnish would\nbe prejudicial, and make the lace less like gold\nthan it was before.\nLinen, Mildew from. 1. Take soap and rub\nit well; then scrape some fine chalk, and rub\nthat also in the linen; lay it on the grass; as it\ndries, wet it a little, and it will come out at\nonce.\n2. Two tablespoonfuls of soft soap and the\njuice of a lemon. Lay it on the spots with a\nbrush, on both sides of the linen. Let it lie a\nday or two till the stains disappear.\nNets, to Prevent from Rotting.— The follow-\ning treatment is said to preserve nets for a\nlong time in a good condition Soften 1 lb. good\nglue in cold water; then dissolve it in 10 gal. of\nhot soft water, with 3^ lb. curd soap. Wash the\nnets in soft water, then boil them in this* for\ntwo hours, press out excess of the liquid and\nhang up overnight. The second bath consists\nof alum, 2 lb.; water, 5 gal.; heat nearly to\nboiling, and immerse the nets in this for about\nthree hours, then press and transfer to a strong\ndecoction of oak bark or a solution of sumac\nin warm water (water, 5 gal.; sumac, 8 lb. and\nlet them remain immersed in this for forty-\neight hours, or longer, if convenient.\nPaper, to Remove Mildew from.— Soak 1 oz. of\ngelatine for some hours in 1 pt. of water, and 1\noz. of white soap scraped, in the same quantity\nof water; mix the two solutions and boil till\ndissolved. Dissolve 1 drm. of alum in 2 oz. of\nwater, and add it to the above. When the mix-\nture is cold, decant the solution from all sedi-\nment. Spread the above over the damaged\npaper with a stout feather. If the paper be in\na very bad state, a second coat may be applied,\nA little spirits of wine added to the solution\ntends to keeps it good.\nRopes, the Preservation of.— The ropes should\nbe dipped, when dry, into a bath containing 20\ngrm. of sulphate of copper per liter or water,\nand kept in soak in this solution for four days,\nafterward being dried. The ropes will thus\nhave absorbed a certain quantity of sulphate of\ncopper, which will preserve them from the at-\ntacks of animal parasites and from rot. The\ncopper salt may be fixed in the fiber by a coat-\ning of tar or by soapy water. For tarring the\nrope it is best to pass it through a bath of boiled\ntar, hot, drawing it through a thimble to press\nback the excess of tar, and suspending it after-\nward on a staging to dry and harden. In the\nsecond method, the rope is soaked in a solution\nof 100 grm. of soap per liter of water. The copper\nsoap thus formed in the fiber of the rope pre-\nserves it from rot even better than the tar,\nwhich acts mechanically to imprison the sul-\nphate of copper, Avhich is the real preservative.\nIt is not stated whether the copper treatment\nis equally serviceable with dressed as with plain\nhemp ropes.\nRopes, to Prolong the Life of .—To prolong the\nduration of ropes, steep them in a solution of\nsulphate of copper, 1 oz. to 1 qt. of water, and\nthen tar them.\nStone, Mildew or Mould, to Remove from.— Try\na little strong aqueous solution of caustic soda.\nIt should remain ten minutes in contact with\nthe stone, which, after washing with water,\nshould be well rubbed with a stiff brush or\nbroom.\nMilk and Coffee Stains, to Remove. These\nstains are very difficult to remove, especially\nfrom light colored and finely finished goods. 1.\nFrom woolen and mixed fabrics they are taken\nout by moistening them with a mixture of 1\npart glycerine, 9 parts water, and }4 part aqua\nammonia. This mixture is applied to the\ngoods by means of a brush, and allowed to re-\nmain for twelve hours, occasionally renewing\nthe moistening. After this time, the stained\npieces are pressed between cloth, and then rub-\nbed with a clean rag. Drying, and if possible a\nlittle steaming, is generally sufficient to tho-\nroughly remove the stains.\n2. Stains on silk garments which are dyed\nwith delicate colors, or finely finished, are more\ndifficult to remove. In this case 5 parts glycer-\nine are mixed with 5 parts water,*and 34 part\nof ammonia added. Before using this mixture\nit should be tried on some part of the garments\nwhere it cannot be noticed, in order to see if\nthe mixture will change the color. If such is the\ncase, no ammonia should be added. If, on the\ncontrary, no change takes place, or if, after\ndrying, the original color is restored, the above\nmixture is applied with a soft brush, allowing\nit to remain on the stains for six or eight\nhours, and is then rubbed with a clean cloth.\nThe remaining dry substance is then carefully\ntaken off by means of a knife. The injured\nplaces are now brushed over with clean water,\npressed between cloths and dried. If the stain\nis not then removed, a rubbing with dry\nbread will easily take it off. To restore the\nfinish, a thin solution of gum arabic, or in many\ncases beer is preferred, is brushed on, then\ndried and carefully ironed. By careful mani-\npulation these stains will be successfully re-\nmoved.\nTo Remove Nitric Acid Stains.— 1. According to\nRcimann s haerhcr Zeituny, these yellow stains,\nso familiar to the chemist and druggist, can be\nremoved either from the skin or from brown\nor black woolen garments by moistening the\nspots for a Avhile with permanganate of potash\nand rinsing Avith Avater. A brownish stain of\nmanganese remains, which may be remOA 7 ed\nfrom the skin by washing with aqueous solu-\ntion of sulphurous acid. If the spots are old,,\nthey cannot be entirely removed.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0124.jp2"},"125":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n113\nCleansing.\n2. Nitric Acid Stains, to Remove from the\nHands.— Touch the stains with solution of per-\nmanganate of potassium wash, rinse in dilute\nhydrochloric acid, and wash again.\nOil Cloths, to Renovate.— Dissolve 2}^ lb.\nparaffin and 1 gal. oil of turpentine by the aid\nof a gentle heat, and apply with a spong;e or\npiece of flannel, while warm. Let it remain on\nthe oil cloth twenty-four hours tben polish\nwith flannel. This solution not only renovates\nbut preserves the cloth. It has been used on oil\ncloths which have been down four years, and\nthey look as good as new. The same prepara-\ntion may also be used on painted floors. When\nrubbed with flannel, it will have a beautiful\ngloss, equal to varnish.\nOil Cloth, to Clean.— I. Wash with a large soft\nwoolen cloth and lukewarm or cold water, dry\nthoroughly with a soft cloth, and afterward\npolish with milk, or a weak solution of beeswax,\nin spirits of turpentine. Never use a brush, or\nhot water, or soap, as either will be certain to\nbring off the paint.\n2. Wash with equal quantities of milk and\nwater. Once in several months a little linseed\noil may be used. It must be well rubbed in\nand polished with a piece of silk.\nOil Colors, Varnish and Resins,— On white or\ncolored linens, cottons, or woolens, use recti-\nfied oil of turpentine, alcohol lye, and their\nsoap. On silks, use benzine, ether, and mild\nsoap, very cautiously.\nOil Stains on Paper.— Use pipe clay mixed\nwith water. Allow it to remain on the spot for\nseveral hours.\nFloors, Oil Stains, to Remove from.— Use oxalic\nacid and water, then wash well with soda and\nsoap.\nFor additional receipts for removing oil stains,\nsee also Grease, above.\nPaint Brushes, to Clean.— 1. When a paint brush\nis stiff and hard through drying with paint on\nit, put some turpentine in a shallow dish and\nset on fire. Let it burn for a minute until hot,\nthen smother the flame and work the pencil\nin the fingers, dipping it frequently into hot\nspirits. Rinse all paint brushes, pencils, etc.,\nin turpentine, grease with a mixture of sweet\noil and tallow, to prevent them from drying-\nhard, and put them away in a close box.\n2. To soften brushes that have become hard,\nsoak them twenty-four hours in raw linseed\noil, and rinse them out in hot turpentine, re-\n{)eating the process till clean or wash them in\nlot soda and water and soft soap.\nPaint, to Clean.— 1. To clean paint, provide a\nplate with some of the best whiting to be had\nhave ready some clean warm water and a piece\nof flannel, which dip into the water and squeeze\nnearly dry; then take as much whiting as will\nadhere to it, and apply it to the painted surface,\nwhen a little rubbing will instantly remove any\nidirt or grease. After which, wash the part well\nwith clean water, rubbing it dry with a soft\nchamois. Paint thus cleaned looks as well as\nwhen first laid on, without any injury to the\nmost delicate colors. It is far better than using\nsoap, and does not require more than half the\ntime and labor.\n2. To clean paint, take 1 oz. pulverized borax,\n1 lb. small pieces best brown soap, and 3 qt.\nwater; let simmer till the soap is dissolved,\nstirring frequently. Do not let it boil. Use\nwith a piece of old flannel, and rinse off as soon\nas the paint is clean. This mixture is also good\ntor washing clothes.\n3. Dissolve Vz oz. glue and a bit of softsoap\nthe size of a walnut in about 3 pt. of warm\nwater, and with a well-worn whitewash brush\nwell scrub the work, but not sufficient to get\noff the paint, and rinse with plenty of cold\nclean water, using a wash leather; let dry itself.\nWork done in this manner wili often look equal\nto new.\n4. First takeoff all the dust with a soft brush\nand a pair of bellows. Scour with a mixture\nof soft soap and fuller s earth, and use luke-\nwarm water. If there are any spots which are\nextra dirty, first remove these by rubbing with\na sponge dipped in soap and water. Com-\nmence the scouring at the top of the door or\nwainscot, and proceed downward; and dry\nwith a soft linen cloth. When cleaning paint,\nit is always better to employ two persons, one\nto scour and the other to rub dry.\nPaint, to Remove.— 1. Scraping or burning\nit off is extremely laborious, and too slow for\ngeneral purposes. A more thorough and ex-\npeditious way is by chemical process, using for\nthat purpose a solution of soda and quicklime\nin equal proportions. The solution may be\nmade as follows: The soda is dissolved in water,\nthe lime is then added, and the solution is ap-\nplied with a brush^to the old paint. A few mo-\nments are sufficient to remove the coats of\npaint, which maybe washed off with hot water.\nThe oldest paint may be removed by a paste of\nthe soda and quicklime. The wood should be\nafterward washed with vinegar or an acid solu-\ntion before repainting, to remove all traces of\nthe alkali.\n2. Wet the place with naphtha, repeating as\noften as is required but frequently one appli-\ncation will dissolve the paint. As soon as it is\nsoftened rub the surface clean. Chloroform,\nmixed with a small quantity of spirit ammonia,\ncomposed of strong ammoniac, has been em-\nployed very successfully to remove the stains\nof dry paint from wood, silk, and other sub-\nstances.\n3. To Remove from Floors. Take 1 lb.\nAmerican pearlash, 31b. quick stone lime, slake\nthe lime in water, then add the pearlash, and\nmake the whole about the consistence of paint.\nLay the mixture over the whole body of the\nwork which is required to be cleaned, with an\nold brush let it remain for 12 or 14 hours,\nwhen the paint can be easily scraped off.\nTo Soften Putty and Remove Old Paint.— 1.\nTake 3 lb. of quick stone lime, slake the lime in\nwater, and then add 1 lb. of American pearlash.\nApply this to both sides of the glass, and let it\nremain for twelve hours, when the putty will\nbe softened, and the glass may be taken out\nwithout being broken. To destroy paint apply\nit to the whole body of the work which is re-\nquired to be cleaned; use an old brush, as it\nwill spoil a new one let it remain about twelve\nor fourteen hours and then the paint may be\neasily scraped off.\n2. To remove paint from old doors, etc., and\nto soften putty in window frames, so that the\nglass may be taken out without breakage or\ncutting, take 1 lb. of pearlash and 31b. of quick-\nlime slake the lime in water, and then add the\npearlash, and make the whole about the con-\nsistence of paint. Apply it to both sides of the\nglass, and let it remain for twelve hours, when\nthe putty will be so softened that the glass\nmay be taken out of the frame without being\ncut and with the greatest facility. To destroy\npaint, lay the above over the whole body of the\nwork which is required to be cleaned, using an\nold brush (as it will spoil a new one) let it re-\nmain for twelve or fourteen hours, when the\npaint can be easily scraped oil.\n3. Paint Stains on Glass.— American potash, 3\nparts; unslaked lime, 1. Lay this on with a\nstick, letting it remain for some time,, and it\nwill remove either tar or paint.\n4. Common washing soda dissolved in water.\nLet it soak awhile— if put on thick, say 30\nminutes- and then wash off. If it does not re-\nmove, give it another application.\nPaint, Varnish and Resin Stains on Clothes\n1. For white or colored cotton and woolen\ngoods, oil of turpentine or benzine, followed\nby soapsuds. For silk, benzine, ether, soap;\nhard rubbing is to be avoided. For all kinds\nof fabrics chloroform is best, but must be care-\nfully used.\n2. Stains of paint or varnish, after being sot t-\nened with olive oil or fresh butter, may gener-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0125.jp2"},"126":{"fulltext":"Cleansing,\n114\nCleansing.\nally be removed by the same means as ordinary\ngrease spots.\n3. Saturate the spots with a solution of equal\nparts turpentine and spirits of ammonia wash\nout with strong- soapsuds.\n4. Paint stains that are dry and old may be\nremoved from cotton or woolen goods with\nchloroform. First cover the spot with olive oil\nor butter.\nPaintings, to Clean.— 1. Dissolve a little com-\nmon soda in urine, then add a grated potato\nand a little salt; well rub this over the paint-\nings till clean. Wash off in spring water and\ndry with a clean cloth.\n2. First rub the picture well with good\nwhisky, which will make the varnish come off\nin froth, then wash well with cold water, and\nwhen dry varnish again; this will restore the\npicture to its original color unless very old.\nKeep the picture covered from dust until the\nvarnish is dry.\nPapier Mache Goods, Renovation of.—l. \\i pint\nlinseed oil, y% pint old ale, the white of an egg,\n1 oz. spirits of wine, 1 oz. hydrochloric acid; well\nshake before using. A little to be applied to\nthe face of soft linen pad, and lightly rubbed\nfor a minute or two over the article to be\nrestored, which must afterward be polished\noff with old silk handkerchief. This will keep\nany length of time if well corked. Invaluable\nfor delicate cabinet work.— Dustpan.\n2. Wash with water, dredge with flour, and\npolish with a dry flannel cloth.\nParaffin Oil, to Extract from Floor.— A strong\nhot solution of oxalic acid applied, and by the\nafter use of the scrubbing brush, you will re-\nmove all the stain from your boards.— ^4. E. B.\nSmi h.\nParchment, to Clean.— Immerse the parch-\nment in a solution of acetic acid, and gently\nrub the stained parts while wet on a flat board\nwith lump pumice, then bleach it with chloride\nof lime. This process was recommended in the\nEnglish Mechanic. It is not very successful, but\nit makes it white enough for bookbinding. It\nhas, however, the objectionable qualities of not\nmaking the parchment flexible, and when dried\nit is as hard as a board, and it has no gloss like\nthe virgin parchment. On no account must\nthe parchment be washed in very hot water, or\nheld before a fire, as it will shrivel up in a most\nprovoking manner.\nPearls, to Clean.— Soak them in hot water in\nwhich bran has been boiled, with a little cream\nof tartar and alum, rubbing gently between\nthe hands when the heat will admit of it.\nWhen the water is cold renew the application\ntill any discoloration is removed, rinse in luke-\nwarm water; lay them on white paper in a dark\nplace to cool.\nPiques and Colored Muslins.— French method\nMake a strong lather with best white soap\ndissolved in soft water, and use while rather\nwarm, but not hot. Wash the dress in this,\nbut do not soak it previously. As soon as the\nlather appears soiled squeeze out the dress,\nthrow away the lather, and wash the dress\nagain in a second lot, and so continue until the\ndress is thoroughly clean. Then well rinse it\nin cold water, and afterward in cold water\nslightly blued. Squeeze all the water out of\nthe dress, but do not wring it, and hang in a\nshady place to dry, or, if the weather be wet,\ndry it before the Are. When dry they are to\nbe starched. It is in this operation that the\nfailures in getting up muslins and piques more\noften occur than in the washing. Use a large\nbasin and have plenty of starch, and dissolve\nin the starch, according to the quantity of it,\n3 or 4 in. of composite or wax candle. Squeeze\nthe starch well out of the dress, and while it is\nstill wet put it between some old sheets or\ntable cloths, and pass it between the rollers of\na wringing machine or under a mangle; by this\nmeans all lumps of starch will be removed.\nFinish by ironing. Piques should be ironed on\nthe wrong side, as lightly as possible.\nPlush, to Clean. See Velvets below.\nPlush, to Renovate.— Clean i t with the usual\nsolvent, for which see table. Then, to restore\nthe plush, hold the wrong side over steam aris-\ning from boiling water, until the pile rises or\ndampen lightly the wrong side of the plush,\nand hold it over a pretty hot oven, not hot\nenough to scorch, however, or make a clean\nbrick hot; place upon it a wet cloth, and hold\nthe plush over it, and the steam will raise it.\nPots, Iron, to Clean.— Put a few ounces of\nwashing soda (sodium carbonate) into the pot,\nfill with water, and boil until the inside looks\nclean.\nLightning Renovator.— Castile soap, 4 oz.; hot\nwater, 1 qt. When the soap is dissolved, add\nwater, 4 qt. water of ammonia, 4 fl. oz.; sulph-\nuric ether, 1 fl. oz. glycerine, 1 fl oz. alcohol,\n1 oz. Medical Brief states that this is an excel-\nlent preparation for removing grease.\nRugs, Goatskin, to Clean.— One washing with\nwarm (not hot) suds will not materially hurt\nthe skin itself. The skin may not seem quite\nso soft after the washing, but if the washing is\ndone quickly, the skin well rinsed in cold water,\nand dried with only moderate warmth, being\nfrequently turned and shaken, the difference\nwill hardly be perceptible.\nRust Spots, to Remove.— By adding 2 parts\ncream of tartar to 1 part oxalic acid ground\nfine and kept dry in a bottle, you will find, by\napplying alittle of the powder to rust stains\nwhile the article is wet, that the result is much\nquicker and better. Wash out in clear warm\nwater to prevent injury to the goods.\nRust, Black Ink.— On white goods, warm solu-\ntion oxalic acid weak muratic acid. On dyed\ntissues of cotton, repeated washings with citric\nacid if the color is well dyed. Ditto of wool,\nsame weak muratic acid if the wool is of the\nnatural color. On silk, no remedy.\nSatins, to Clean.— 1. Satins may be cleansed\nwith a weak solution of borax or benzine when\ngreasy. Care should be taken to sponge mode-\nrately and lengthwise, not across, the fabric;\niron on the wrong side only. White, cream, and\npink satins may be treated in the same way as\ncream colored silks.\n2. To Clean Black.— Boil 3 lb. potatoes to a\npulp in a quart of water; strain through a\nsieve, and brush the satin with it on a board or\ntable. The satin must not be wrung, but folded\ndown in cloths, for three hours, and then ironed\non the wrong side.\nScouring Liquid.— (M. Le Clerc.) For scouring\nand removing grease from tissues of all kinds\nand worn clothes. To take out spots the liquid\nis used pure, but for general scouring it is\nmixed with 4 or 5 times its own quantity of\nwater. In 23 gal. hot water dissolve 15^ lb.\nwhite Marseilles soap; l T 3 y lb. carbonate of pot-\nash or 15 or 18 lb. soft soap. To the solution\nadd extract of Panama, 1 T V lb. In another ves-\nsel mix ox or sheep gall, 15 qt.; and ammonia\nat 22°, 3 pt. Heat. this mixture, skim it, let it\ncool, and then add alcohol at 90°, S^gal.; decant\nand filter. Take y§ part of the soap mixture\nand part of the gall mixture, and add some\naromatic essence.\nScouring Preparation for Removing Grease.\n1. 1 oz. camphor dissolved in 3 oz. alochol.\nAdd 4 oz. essence of lemon.\n2. Camphine, 8 oz.; alcohol, 1 oz.; sulphuric\nether, 1 oz.; essence of lemon, 1 drm.\n3. Alcohol, 8 oz.; white soap, 114 oz.; ox gall,\nV/z oz.; essence of lemon, 34 to M oz.\nScouring Paste.— See also J»utz Powder.—\nOxalic acid, 1 part; iron peroxide, 15 parts;\npowdered rotten stone, 20 parts; palm oil, 60\nparts petrolatum, 4 parts. Pulverize the ox-\nalic acid and addj-ougeand rotten stone, mixing\nthoroughly, and sift to remove all grit; then\nadd gradually the palm oil and petrolatum,\nincorporating thoroughly. Add oil of myrbane\nor oil of lavender to suit. By substituting your\nred ashes from stove coal, an inferior represent-\native of the foregoing paste will be produced.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0126.jp2"},"127":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n115\nCleansing.\nRemoval of Stains and Grease Spots,\nThe following table gives at a glance the best means of cleansing all Kinds of fabrics from any stain\nwhatever.\nKIND OF STAIN,\nFROM LINEN.\nFROM COLORED GOODS.\nCOTTON.\nWOOLEN.\nFROM SILKS.\nSugar, glue, blood\nand albumen.\nSimple washing with water.\nGrease.\nSoapsuds, alkaline\nlyes.\nLukewarm soap-\nsuds.\nSoapsuds, ammonia.\nBenzine, ether,\nammonia, pot-\nash, magnesia,\nchalk, yelk of\negg.\nVarnish and oil\npaints.\nTurpentine, or benzine, and soap.\nBenzine, ether,\nsoap rub care-\nfully.\nStearine.\nVery strong alcohol, 95°.\nVegetable colors,\nred wine, fruit,\nred ink.\nSulphur vapors\nwarm chlorine\nwater.\nWash out with warm soapsuds or\nammonia water.\nThe same rub\ngently and care-\nfully.\nAlizarine ink.\nTartaric acid the\nolder the stain the\nstronger the solu-\ntion.\nDilute tartaric acid if the stuff will\nbear it.\nThe same with\ncare.\nIron rust and ink\nmade of galls.\nWarm oxalic acid\nsolution dilute\nhydrochloric acid,\nthen tin turnings.\nRepeated washings\nwith a solution of\ncitric acid, if the\ncolors will bear it.\nThe same dilute\nhydrochloric acid\nif the wool is dyed\nnaturally.\nNothing can be\ndone; and all\nattempts o n 1 y\nmake it worse.\nLime, lye, or al-\nkalies.\nSimply wash with\nwater.\nDrop dilute nitric acid upon it. The stain previously moist-\nened can be rubbed off with the finger.\nTannin, green nut\nshells.\nJayelle water,warm\nchlorine water\nconcentrated so-\nlution of tartaric\nacid.\nAlternate washing with water and with more or less dilute\nchlorine water, according to the colors.\nCoal tar, wagon\ngrease.\nSoap, oil of turpen-\ntine, alternating\nwith a stream of\nwater.\nRub with lard, then soap it well. After\na time wash alternately with water and\nturpentine.\nThe same but use\nbenzine instead\nof turpentine,\nand the water\nmust fall on it\nfrom s o m e\nheight.\nAcids.\nRed acid stains are destroyed by ammonia, followed by thorough Avashing with\nwater. Brown stains of nitric acid are permanent.\nWith the above table, a few simple chemicals, and a good deal of care and perseverance, any\none may set up a chemical cleaning establishment. Great pains must be taken when ether and\nbenzine are employed to avoid their taking fire, the vapor of which when mixed witli air is highly\nexplosive. An open bottle of ether will take fire at a distance of several feet from an open Dame,\nas a heavy invisible vapor issues from the bottle when the vapor reaches the flame of a lamp the\nwhole mass of vapor takes fire.— Muster Zeit.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0127.jp2"},"128":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n113\nCleansing.\nScouring Bricks.— Scouring- brick may be\nmade by mixing sand with a small percentage\nof clay and baking. The quantity and heat re-\nquired may be easily ascertained by trial.\nMucilage and gums may be used, but they are\nnot equal to clay as a cement for scouring brick.\nA very small portion of Portland cement might\nbe made available, to avoid the baking process.\nShawls, to dean.— White woolen shawls will\nnot always stand washing successfully. A safe\nway to clean such an article is to brush all the\ndust out, spread it on a table, then sprinkle\nover it a quantity of finely ground white starch\n(rice or potato, not wheat); fold up the shawl\ninto a square, powdering liberally between each\nfold. The shawl should be put away for sev-\neral hours, and then be opened and dusted The\nstarch will have absorbed all the grease that\nmay have been present and collected the dust.\nIf such shawls are very dirty, they may be\npressed between two damp blankets before the\nstarch is put on. Gray and light blue woolen\nshawls may be treated in the same way, only\nusing slightly blued starch instead of pure\nwhite starch. The shawls must be well shaken\nto get rid of the powder.\nShirts, Laundrying of.— (Chinese Method.) A\nrather thick starch paste is prepared by first\nbeating up a handful of raw starch, usually\ncorn starch, and a teaspoonful of fine rice flour\nwith about 1 qt. of water, making a liquid of\ncreamlike consistence. A certain quantity (de-\ntermined alone by personal experience) is\npoured into a quantity of boiling water, while\nthe latter is violently stirred with a short\nwooden spatula. With this the portions of the\nlinen to be dressed are well smeared, the linen\nmoist from wringing and the starch quite hot.\nThus smeared the pieces are laid aside for a few\nminutes, then rubbed well between the hands,\nso that the paste is well distributed in the\nfabric. The linen is then usually dried by ar-\ntificial heat. When ready for ironing, the\nstarched portions are dampened by means of a\ncloth dipped in raw starch water, to which has\nbeen added a small quantity— about y% an oz. to\nthe qt. of blood albumen— clarified serum of bul-\nlock s blood. The proportion of starch in this\nwater is usually about as 1 to 50 of water. In\nironing the irons are first made very hot, and\ncooled somewhat externally just before using by\nmomentarily.plunging them into a pail of water.\nThe ironsi commonly employed are what are\ntermed polishing irons— they have the posterior\nedge rounded instead of angular, as in the ordi-\nnary smoothing or sadiron. Much of the fine\ngloss observed on shirts laundried by Chinamen\nis accomplished by the skillful manipulation of\nthis rounded edge over the work— a manip-\nulation very difficult to describe in words. It\nis most laborious work for those not accus-\ntomed to it. It not only renders the surface\nglossy, but imparts easy flexibility to the heav-\nily starched fabric otherwise not attainable.\nCustom made shirts are usually- laundried be-\nfore delivery in trade at the factory, the ironing\nin these cases being largely performed by steam\nmangles, though some are hand finished. The\nf ollowing receipt for a laundry starch is said\nto produce a very fine and lasting gloss on linen\nwithout the expenditure of the amount of labor\nin ironing usually requisite to produce a fair\nappearance\nCorn starch 1 oz.\nWater, boiling 1% pt.\nBluing q. s.\nTo this when it has cooled somewhat is added\nand thoroughly mixed in about half an ounce\nof the following preparation\nGum arabic 8f parts.\nSugar, loaf 2*4\nSoap, white curd M\nWater glass A sirup) 1\nEgg albumen 4\nWater, warm 20\nIn preparing this the first three ingredients\nare dissolved together in the water at boiling-\nheat, the water glass is then added, and when\nthe mixture has cooled down to about 15l)° Fah.\nthe egg albumen is put in and the whole well\nbeaten together.\n2. Starch, loz.; paraffin, about 3drm.; white\nsugar, tablespoonf ul; table salt, tablespoonf ul\nwater, q. s. Rub up the starch with soft water\ninto a thick smooth paste. Add nearly or quite\na pint of boiling water, with the salt and sugar\ndissolved in it, and, having dropped in the par-\naffin, boil for at least half an hour, stirring to\nprevent burning. Strain the starch and use\nwhile hot. Sufficient bluing may be added to\nthe water, previous to the boiling, to overcome\nthe yellowish cast of the starch, if necessary.\nSpermaceti may be used in place of paraffin.\nStarched linen can only be properly finished by\nhard pressure applied to the iron.\n3. Glossed Shirt Bosoms. Take 2 oz. of fine\nwhite gum arabic powder, put it in a pitcher\nand pour on a pint or more of water, and then,\nhaving covered it, let it stand all night. In the\nmorning, pour it caref ully from the dregs into\na clean bottle, cork, and keep it for use. A\nteaspoonful of gum water stirred in a pint of\nstarch, made in the usual way, will give to\nlawns, white or piinted, a look of newness,\nwhen nothing else can restore them, after they\nhave been washed.\n4. Melt 2)4 pounds of the very best Al par-\naffin wax over a slow fire. When liquefied,\nremove from the fire and stir in 100 drops oil of\ncitronella. Have some new round pie tins;\nplace them on a level table, coat them slightly\nwith sweet oil, and pour about six tablespoon-\nf uls of the enamel into each tin. The pan may\nbe floated in water to cool the contents suffi-\nciently to permit the mixture to be cut or\nstamped out with a tin cutter into small cakes\nabout the size of a peppermint lozenge. Two\nof these cakes added to each pint of starch will\ncause the smoothing iron to impart the finest\npossible finish to muslin or linen, besides per-\nfuming the clothes.\n5. Take of white wax, 1 oz. spermaceti, 2oz.;\nmelt them together with a gentle heat. When\nyou have prepared a sufficient amount of\nstarch, in the usual iway, for a dozen pieces, put\ninto it a piece 1 of the polish about the size of a\nlarge pea; using more or less, according to\nlarge or small, washings. Or thick gum solution\n(made by pouring boiling water upon gum\narabic) may be used. One tablespoonful to a\npint of starch gives clothes a beautiful gloss.\nShoes, to Clean. Kid Boots, how to Renovate\nTops of .—Defaced kid boots will be greatly im-\nproved by being rubbed well with a mixture of\ncream and ink.\nShoes, White Satin, to Clean.— Put in the shoe\nsomething which will fill it out. Then rub the\nshoe gently with a piece of muslin dipped in\nspirits of wine. Do this several times. Then\nwipe the shoe carefully with a piece of dry\nmuslin.\nShow Windows, to Clean.— A good cleaning\npowder for show windows and mirrors is pre-\npared by moistening calcined magnesia with\npure benzine, so that a mass is formed suffi-\nciently moist to let a drop form when pressed.\nThe mixture has to be preserved in glass bot-\ntles with ground stoppers, in order to retain\nthe easily volatile benzine. A little of the mix-\nture is placed on a wad of cotton and applied to\nthe glass plate. Do not use near a fire or light,\nas the benzine vapor is very inflammable and\nexplosive.\nSilk Cleaner.— Soft soap, Yz lb. brandy, 2 tea-\nspoonfuls proof spirit, 1 pt. water, 1 pt.\nmix well together. Apply with a sponge on\neach side of the silk, taking care not to crease\nthe silk. Rinse 2 or 3 times and iron on the\nwrong side, putting a piece of thin muslin be-\ntween the silk and the iron.\nSilk, to Clean.— No silks look well after wash-\ning, no matter how carefully it may be done,\nand, therefore, it should never be resorted to,","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0128.jp2"},"129":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n117\nCleansing.\nwithout absolute necessity. It is recommend-\ned to sponge faded silks with warm water and\nsoap, and then to rub them with a dry cloth on\na flat board, after which, to iron them on the\ninside with a smoothing iron. Sponging a little\nwith spirits will also improve old black silks.\nThe ironing may be done on the right side,\nwith thin paper spread over them to prevent\nglazing.\nSilk, White, to Clean.— White silk is best\ncleaned by dissolving curd soap in water as hot\nas the hand can bear, and passing the silk\nthrough and through, handling it gently, and\nrubbing any spots till they disappear. The\nsilk should then be rinsed in lukewarm water,\nand stretched by pins to dry.\nBlack, to Clean.— To bullock s gall add boil-\ning water sufficient to make it warm, and with\na clean sponge rub the silk well on both sides\nsqueeze it well out, and proceed in like manner.\nRinse it in spring water, and change the water\nuntil perfectly clean. Dry it in the air, and pin\nit out on a table but first dip the sponge in\nglue water, and rub it on the wrong side then\ndry before a fire.\nSilk, Black, to Renovate.— The French process\nis to use a weak solution of coffee water. Do\nnot wet the silk too much, and restore the\nluster by caret uf rubbing with a soft silk\nhandkerchief. White silks can be cleaned with\na dry powder formed of fine starch and a little\nlaundry blue. Rub over the tissue and dust\nout thoroughly. Bread crumbs or chalk should\nbe used for pink or cream colored silks. Silks\nmay be ironed on the wrong side with a moder-\nately hot iron, or on the right side (to give the\nfine luster) if well protected by two folds of\nslightly damped muslin.\nSilver, to Clean.— 1. Silver articles discolored\nby sulphureted hydrogen may be cleaned by\nrubbing them with a boiling saturated solution\nof borax. Another good preparation is a solu-\ntion of caustic potash with some bits of metal-\nlic zinc.\n2. Silver which has become much tarnished\nmay be restored by immersion in a warm solu-\ntion of 1 part cyanide of potassium to 8 parts of\nwater. This mixture is extremely poisonous.)\nWashing well with Avater, and drying, will pro-\nduce a somewhat dead- white appearance, which\nmay be quickly changed to a brilliant luster by\npolishing with a soft leather and rouge.\n3. Wash in hot soapsuds (use the silver soap\nif convenient); then clean with a paste of whit-\ning and whisky. Polish with buckskin. If\nsilver was always washed in hot suds, rinsed\nwell, and wiped dry, it would seldom need any-\nthing else.\n4. A fresh concentrated solution of hyposul-\nphite of soda will dissolve at once the coat of\nsulphide of silver, which is the cause of the\nblackness produced by mustard, eggs, etc., or\nanything containing sulphur.\n5. Add gradually 8 oz. of prepared chalk to a\nmixture of 2 oz. of spirits of tui-pentine, 1 oz. of\nalcohol, ]4, oz. of spirits of camphor, and 2 drm.\nof aqua ammonia. Apply with a soft sponge,\nand allow it to dry before polishing.\nSilver Cleaning Compounds.— 1. Ammonium\ncarbonate, 1 oz.; water, 4 oz.; Paris white, 16\noz.; mix well, and apply by means of soft\nleather.\n2. Rouge (very fine) and prepared chalk,\nequal parts; use dry.\n3. Whiting (fine), 2 pt.; white oxide of tin,\n1 pt.; calcined hartshorn, 1 pt.\nSilver Spoons, to Remove Yellow Coating from.\n1. Dissolveloz. cyanide of potassium in 1 qt.\nof soft water and you will have a dip in which\nyou can wash your spoons and instantly re-\nmove the sulphide of silver. The solution must\nbe kept in a bottle that is tightly corked and\nlabeled poison. 1\n2. Egg spoons get tarnished by the sulphur in\nthe egg uniting with the silver. This tarnish is\na sulphuret of silver, and may be removed by\nrubbing with wet salt or ammonia.\n3. It may be exposed to uniform heat, and\nthen boiled in strong alum water.\nSilver, to Remove Ink Stains f rom.— Make a\npaste of chloride of lime and water and rub\nupon the stains.\nSilver Jewelnj (Filigree), to Restore the Color.—\nHow can the original white color of silver fili-\ngree jewelry be restored when tarnished bv\nwear or shop worn? A. First wash the articles\nin a solution of 1 fl. oz. of liquid potassa in 20\nof water, rinse, and then immerse in a mix-\nture of salt, 1 part; alum, 1 part; saltpeter, 2\nparts: dissolved in 4 parts water. Let them\nremain for five minutes; wash in cold water and\ndry with chamois leather.\nSkeletons, to Prepare and Bleach.— It is impos-\nsible to extract the oily material from the\nbones except by a very slow process. Boiling\nin any amount of alkali, say washing soda, will\nnot accomplish it, and all the oil must be ab-\nsolutely removed before you can do anything\ntoward the bleaching. Very long maceration\nin water alone or in soda and water will even-\ntually effect it, but a much better material is\nbenzine. Make a tin box into which you\npack your skeleton, solder on the cover, leaving\nonly a round hole for fining. Pour in benzine\ntill the box is filled, stop the hole closely, and\nleave it undisturbed for three months. The\nskeleton will come out clean, and can be\nbleached perfectly by sunlight. Chlorine will\ndo the bleaching quicker, but it injures the\nbones; never use it. Any shorter process will\ngive you a skeleton that is always nasty.\nSilver Nitrate Stains, to Remove.— 1. In the\nmanipulation of the nitrate of silver bath solu-\ntions in photograph y, the operator frequently\nreceives stains* of the salt upon his clothing,\nwhich are not very attractive in appearance.\nStains or marks of any kind made with the\nabove silver solution or bath solution may be\npromptly removed from the clothing by simply\nwetting the stain or mark with asolution of\nbichromate of mercury. The chemical result\nis the change of the black-looking nitrate of\nsilver into chromate of silver, which is whiter\nor invisible on the cloth. Bichromate of mer-\ncury can be obtained at the drug stores.\n2. Sodium sulphite, 1 oz.; chloride of lime,\noz.; water, 2 oz. Mix. Use a nail brush.\n3. Dip the fingers into a strong solution of\ncupric chloride. In about a minute the silver\nwill be converted into a chloride, and may then\nbe washed off with hyposulphate of soda solu-\ntion.\n4. The immediate and repeated application of\na very weak solution of cyanide of potassium\n(accompanied by thorough rinsings in clean\nwater) will generally remove these without in-\njury to the colors.\nHow to Remove Nitrate of Silver Stains from\nthe Fingers. 5. Paint the blackened parts with\ntincture of iodine let remain until the black\nbecomes white. The skin will then be red, but\nby applying ammonia the iodine will be\nbleached, leaving white instead of black stains\nof nitrate of silver.\n6. Nitrate of silver stains may be removed by\nrubbing them with a weak solution of sul-\nphydrate of ammonium or strong solution of\niodide of potassium.\nSoaps for Cleaning. See Soaps.\nStains, Soap for Removing.— Take 22 lb. of the\nbest white soap and reduce it to thin shavings.\nPlace it in a boiler, together with water, 8*8 lb.;\noxgall, 18*25 lb. Cover up and allow to remain at\nrest all night. In the morning heat up gently\nand l-egulate it so that the soap may dissolve\nwithout stirring. When the whole is homo-\ngeneous and flows smoothly, part of the water\nhaving been vaporized, add turpentine, 0 55\nlb.; benzine, best clear, 0*44 lb.; and mix well.\nWhile still in the state of fusion color with\ngreen ultramarine and ammonia, pour into\nmoulds and stand for a few days before using.\nThe product will be found to act admirably.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0129.jp2"},"130":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n118\nCleansing.\nand the yield is very good indeed.— Moniteur de\nla Teinture.\nSponges, to Clean— In a large basin mix\nabout a pint of water and 2 tablespoonf uls of\nsulphuric acid (common oil of vitriol), then\nsteeped the sponge about two hours, wring it\nout several times in the acid, and finally well\nwashed out the acid in clean water; it was\nthen just like new, having regained its former\nsize, color and elasticity, with not the slightest\ntrace of its former sliminess. It was a large\nbath sponge, and in an extremely bad condi-\ntion. English Mechanic.\nSpots and Stains, to Remove.— Taking out\ngrease and other spots from clothes is an appli-\ncation of chemistry which has a practical in-\nterest for everybody. It demands a certain\nacquaintance with solvents and reagents, even\nthough we may not understand the laws of\nchemical affinity on which their action depends.\nThe general principle is the applying to the spot\na substance which has a stronger affinity for the\nmatter composing it than this has for cloth,\nand which shall render it soluble in some liquid,\nso that it can be washed out. At the same\ntime it must be something that will not injure\nthe texture of the fabric or change its color.\nThe practical hints we shall give are condensed\nfrom a variety of foreign sources.\nThe best substances for removing grease or\noil are 1. Benzine. 2. Soap. 3. Chalk, fuller s\nearth, steatite, or French chalk. These\nshould be merely diffused through a little\nwater to form a thin paste, which is spread\nupon the spot, allowed to dry, and then\nbrushed out. 4. Oxgall and yelk of egg, which\nhave the property of dissolving fatty bodies\nwithout affecting perceptibly the texture or\ncolors of cloth. The oxgall should be purified\nto prevent its greenish tint from degrading\nthe brilliancy of dyed stuffs or the purity of\nwhites. Thus prepared it is the most effective\nof all substances known for removing this\nkind of stains, especially from woolen cloths.\nIt is to be diffused through its own bulk of\nwater, applied to the spots, rubbed well into\nthem with the hands till they disappear, after\nwhich the stuff is to be washed with soft water.\n5. The volatile oil of turpentine. This will\ntake out only recent stains for which purpose\nit ought to be previously purified by distilla-\ntion over quicklime.\nVarious other receipts for removing stains\nwill be found under grease, etc., under the same\nheading, Cleansing The preceding table and\nthe receipts which follow afford a ready means\nof determining the proper method of proced-\nure, but the reader should not fail to look up\nboth the name of the article and the nature of\nthe spot, stain, etc.\nThe following receipts deal especially with\nthe garment dyer 1. Steam has the property\nof softening fatty matters, and thus facilitating\ntheir removal by reagents.\n2. Sulphuric acid may be employed in certain\ncases, especially to brighten and raise greens,\nreds, and yellows; but it must be diluted with\nat least 100 times its weight of water and more,\naccording to the delicacy of the shades.\n3. Muriatic acid is used with success for re-\nmoving spots of ink and iron mould upon a\ngreat number of colors which it does not sensi-\nbly affect.\n4. Sulphurous acid is only used for bleaching\nundyed goods,straw hats, etc., and for removing\niruit stains upon white woolen and silk tissues\nThe fumes of burning sulphur are also em-\nployed for this object, but the liquid acid (or a\nsolution of the bisulphite— not bisulphate— of\nsoda or magnesia) is safer.\n5. Oxalic acid serves for removing spots of\nink and iron and the residues of mud spots,\nwhich do not yield to other cleansing agents.\nIt may also be employed for destroying the\nstains of fruit and of astringent juices, and\nstains of urine which have become old upon\nany tissue. Nevertheless, it is best con-\nfined to undyed goods, as it attacks not merely\nfugitive colors, but certain of the lighter fast\ncolors. The best method of applying it is to\ndissolve it in cold or lukewarm water, and to\nlet a little of the solution remain upon the spot\nbefore rubbing it with the hands.\n6. Citric acid serves to revive and raise cer-\ntain colors, especially greens and yellows; it\ndestroys the effect of alkalies and any bluish\nor crimson spots which appear upon scarlets.\nIn its stead acetic acid may be employed.\n7. Liquid ammonia is the most energetic and\nuseful agent employed for cleaning tissues and\nsilk hats, and for quickly neutralizing the\neffects of acids. In the latter case it is often\nsufficient to expose the goods to the fumes of\nthis alkali in order to remove such spots en-\ntirely. Ammonia gives a violet cast to all\nshades produced with cochineal, lac, the red-\nwoods or logwood, and all colors topped with\ncochineal. It does not deteriorate silks, but at\nelevated temperatures it perceptibly attacks\nwoolens. It serves to restore the black upon\nsilks damaged by damp.\n8. The carbonate of soda (soda crystals)\nserves equally in most of the cases where am-\nmonia is employed. It is good for hats affected\nby sweat.\n9. Soda and potash only serve for white goods,\nof linen, hemp, or cotton; for these alkalies\nattack colors and injure the tenacity and sup-\npleness of woolen and silk. For the same rea-\nson white soap is only to be recommended for\ncleaning white woolen tissues.\n10. Mottled soaps serve for cleaning heavy\nstuffs of woolen or cotton, such as quilts; for\nsuch articles which do not require great supple-\nness or softness of feel the action of the soap\nmay be enhanced by the addition of a small\nquantity of potash,\n11. Soft potash soaps may be usefully em-\nployed in solution, along with gum arabic or\nother mucilaginous matters, for cleaning dyed\ngoods, and especially self-colored silks. This\ncomposition is preferable to white or marbled\nsoaps, as it removes the spots better and at-\ntacks the colors much less.\n12. Oxgall, which can be obtained from the\nbutchers in a sort of membraneous bag (the\nso-called gall bladder), has the property of dis-\nsolving the majority of fatty bodies without\ninjuring either the color or the fiber. It may be\nused preferably to soap for cleaning woolens;\nbut it should not be employed for cleaning\nstuffs of light and delicate colors, which it may\nspoil by giving them a greenish yellow, or even\na deep green tint, it is mixed also with other\nmatters, such as oil of turpentine, alcohol,\nhoney, yelk of egg, clay (fuller s earth), etc.,\nand in this state is used for cleaning silks.\n13. To obtain a satisfactory result gall ought\nto be very fresh. To preserve it a simple\nmethod is to tie the neck of the gall bladder\nwell with a string, and hold the bladder in boil-\ning water for some time. This being done, it is\ntaken out and let dry in the shade.\n14. Yelk of egg possesses nearly the same\nproperties as oxgall, but is much more costly.\nIt must be used as quickly as possible, for it\nlosses its efficacy with keeping. It is some-\ntimes mixed with an equal bulk of oil of tur-\npentine.— Moniteur de la Teinture.\nStearin, Sperm Candles, to Remove Spots Made\nby.—l. For all kinds use 95$ alcohol.\n2. Scrape off as much as possible with a knife,\nthen lay a thin, soft, white blotting paper upon\nthe spots and press with a warm iron. By re-\npeating this the spermaceti will be drawn out.\nAfterward, rub the cloth where the spots have\nbeen with some very soft, brownish paper.\nStones, to Clean. To remove grease from\nstone steps or passages, pour strong soda and\nwater boiling hot over the spot, lay on it a\nlittle fuller s earth made into a thin paste with\nboiling water, let it remain all night, and if\nthe grease be not removed, repeat the process.\nGrease may sometimes be taken out by rubbing","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0130.jp2"},"131":{"fulltext":"Cleansing:.\n119\nCleansing;.\nthe spot with a hard stone— not hearthstone-\nusing sand and very hot water, with soap and\nsoda.\nSpots of Sugar, Glue, Blood, Albumen.— On\nwhite goods, on dyed tissues of cotton and\nwool, and on silk, simple washing- with water.\nTallow, to Cleanse and Bleach.— Dissolve 1 lb.\nof alum in 2 gal. of water; the water should be\nboiling. Now add 20 lb. of tallow and continue\nto boil for about an hour, skimming frequent-\nly. Strain through stout muslin and allow it\nto harden.\nTannin from Chestnuts, Green Walnuts, etc.,\nor Leather.— White goods, hot chlorine water,\nand concentrated tartaric acid. Colored cot-\ntons, woolens, and silks, apply dilute chlorine\nwater cautiously to the spot, washing it away\nand reapplying it several times.\nTannin, Walnut Shells. White cottons and\nlinens, Javelle water (liquor sodse chlorinatse),\nwarm chlorine water, concentrated solution of\ntartaric acid. Colored goods or silks, chlorine\nwater, diluted according to the tissue and\ncolor, each application to be followed by wash-\ning with water.\nTar and Pitch Stains.— Tar and pitch produce\nstains easily removed by successive applications\nof spirits of turpentine, coal tar naphtha and\nbenzine. If they are very old and hard, it is\nwell to soften them by lightly rubbing with a\npledget of wool dipped in good olive oil. The\nsoftened mass will then easily yield to the\naction of the other solvents. Resins, varnishes\nand sealing wax may be removed by warming\nand applying strong alcohol. Care must always\nbe taken that, in rubbing the material to re-\nmove the stains, the friction shall be applied\nthe way of the stuff, and not indifferently,\nbackward and forward.\nTar, Cart Wheel Grease, Mixtures of Fat,\nRosin, Carbon and Acetic Acid.— l. On white\ngoods, soap and oil of turpentine, alternating\nwith streams of water. Colored cottons and\nwoolens, rub in with lard, let lie, soap, let lie\nagain, and treat alternately with oil of turpen-\ntine and water. Silks the same, more carefully,\nusing benzine instead of oil of turpentine.\n2. Freshly made tar stains can be removed by\nrubbing with lard and washing with soap and\nwater.\nTapestry, Ancient.— Dissolve a bar of soap in\n1 gal. of boiling water, when cold put 1 qt. of\nthis dissolved soap into 1 gal. of cold water.\nHave ready at hand some pieces of soft flannel,\na soft brush, a piece of wash leather, and some\nclean, dry sheets. First, well brush with a hard,\nlong-haired clothes brush, taking care to re-\nmove all the dust from the corners for this\nlatter purpose it is better to use a small pointed\nbrush and a pair of bellows. If the tapestry is\non the wall begin to clean it at the top, but do\nnot clean more than one square yard at a\ntime.\nDip a piece of flannel into the soap liquor,\nsqueeze it out gently, and well rub it into the\ntapestry to make it lather, and well brush with\na soft brush. Then wring the flannel out of\nthe soap liquor, and dry the square with the\nsoapy flannel and the wash leather, and after-\nward dry with the sheets. The tapestry is to\nbe dried with the soap in it, for on no account\nmust it be rinsed. Dissolve 4 oz. of tartaric\nacid in a pint of boiling water, and put it into\na pan containing 2 gal. of cold water. Dip a\nclean sponge into this acid water, squeeze it,\nand then well rub it into the spot you have just\ncleaned and dried. When this has been done it\nmust be again well dried with the sheets before\nbeing left. And so proceed, a square yard at a\ntime, until the whole is cleaned. The soap\nliquor must be thrown away, and a fresh lot\nmixed, as often as it becomes dirty. When the\ntapestry has all been cleaned, and it is quite\ndry, take a lump of pipe clay and well rub it\ninto it, and then brush it with a clean -clothes\nbrush. This last process takes out the soap and\nspirits, and also brightens the colors. Keep\na good fire in the room while you are cleaning\nthe tapestry.\nTea and Coffee.— When any article has had tea\nor coffee spilled over it be careful not to allow\nsoap to touch it till the stains are removed, for\nthe alkali in the soap will make the coloring\nmatter turn into fast dyes. Spread the stained\npart over a basin, and pour clean, soft boiling-\nwater through it. If the stains prove obsti-\nnate, rub in a little powdered borax, and pour\non more boiling water, then place the article to\nsoak.\nTiles, Dirty, to Clean.— They must first be well\nrubbed with smooth brick or pumice, to re-\nmove the injured surface, and then, after an\naddition of red ocher to give uniform color,\nwhen clean, dry, and free from holes, etc., pour\nover the floor a sufficiency of common oil of\nolives, such as they use in Italy everywhere\nfor this purpose, seeing that the floors of all\nhouses in that country are composed of tiles,\nwhich are either oiled simply or cemented\nsmoothly, and painted over with patterns in\nimitation of carpet or mosaic.\nTins, to Clean.— AH kinds of tins, moulds,\nmeasures, etc., may be cleaned by being well\nrubbed with a paste made of whiting and well\nwater. They should then be rubbed with a\nleather, and any dust remaining on them\nshould be removed by means of a soft brush.\nFinally, they must be polished with another\nleather. Always let the inside of any vessel\nbe cleaned first, since in cleaning the inside the\noutside always becomes soiled. For very dirty\nor greasy tins, grated bath brick and water\nmust be used.\nTobacco Pipes.— A very simple and effective\nplan. Cut y% in. from the end of an ordinary\ncork, and fit it tightly into the bowl of the pipe.\nThen with a knife cut a hole through the cork\nwide enough to admit the nozzle of a water\ntap with a little pressure, turn on the water\ngently until the flow through the stem is suffi-\nciently strong, and let it run until the pipe is\nclean.\nTo Clean Varnish.— Mix powdered chalk with\nsoda or potash lye.\nColors of Varnish, Resins.— On white goods,\nand on dyed tissues of cotton and wool, tur-\npentine, benzine, then soap. On silk, benzine,\nether, soap rub with care.\nVegetable Colors, Wine and Fruit Stains, Red\nInk.— On white goods, vapors of sulphurous\nacid; hot bleaching powder solution, weak.\nOn dyed tissues of cotton and wool, wash with\nwarm soap water or ammonia. On silk, same;\nrub softly and carefully.\nVeils, Black, to Clean.— 1. Pass them through\na warm liquid of bullock s gall and water; rinse\nin cold water then take a small piece of glue,\npour boiling water on it, and pass the veil\nthrough it clap it, and frame to dry.\n2. White, to Clean.— Put the veil in a solu-\ntion of white soap and let it simmer a quarter\nof an hour. Squeeze it in some warm water\nand soap, until quite clean. Rinse it from\nsoap, and then in clean cold water in which is\na drop of liquid blue. Then pour boiling water\nupon a teaspoonful of starch, run the veil\nthrough this, and clear it well by clapping it.\nAfterward dry it out, keeping edges straight\nand even.\nVellum.— Benzine is applied with a sponge.\nIt will remove almost every stain, and does not\ndestroy the texture in the least.\nVelvets, Velveteens and Plush, to Clean— I.\nSilk and cotton velvets, velveteens and plush,\nwhen stained or generally soiled through wear\nand exposure, may be either cleaned or dyed.\nSlightly soiled fabrics should be brushed to get\nrid of dust, and then be sponged with a weak\nsolution of borax or benzine. When very much\nsoiled they will have to be dipped in a bath of\nbenzine, weakened by the addition of a little\nwater. The drying should not be too rapid, but\nthorough. The pile must be brushed quickly\nhe right way. But previous to brushing the","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0131.jp2"},"132":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n120\nCleansing.\npile the back of the fabric must be stiffened.\nPrepare a strong solution of gum arabic in\nwarm water. On taking- the velvet or plush\nout of the bath dry it, and then brush the back\nall over with the gum. This stiffens the fab-\nric, and prevents the pile getting loose. When\ndry turn over the velvet on the right side and\nbrush it smartly, so that the pile lies upright,\nand in the proper direction. If this precaution\nof stiffening the back is not observed, the\nbrushing will only do harm. If stiffened the\npile remains firm, and can be easily brushed\nup. In the case of figured and parti-colored\nvelvets, this precaution should never be omit-\nted or the design will be spoiled. Velvet dress\ntrimmings that are faded and greasy may be\nmade to appear like new material by judi-\nciously following the above directioms.\n2. Velvet, to Clean or to Take Grease from.—\nHub the spots on the silk lightly and rapidly\nwith a clean, soft cotton rag dipped in chloro-\nform, and the grease will immediately dis-\nappear without injuring the color of the silk.\nRepeat the operation if necessary. Be careful\nto rub the article rapidly and lightly, then\nfinish with a clean, dry cloth. If these pre-\ncautions are not taken, a slight stain is apt to\nbe the result. Very highly rectified benzine,\nsuch as is prepared by first-class druggists,\nwill also immediately remove grease from the\nmost delicate colored silks.\nVelvet, to Restore the Pile of. Hold the\nwrong side of the velvet over boiling water,\nand the pile of velvet will be gradually raised,\nViolins, to Clean. 1. Use soap and water, but\navoid its running through the holes.\nClean the interior with dry rice. Do not use\nspirit.\n2. Moisten the soiled parts with salad oil, then\nmix same oil and spirits of wine together in a\nbasin, trying its strength first on a part of the\nneck or scroll, then with a piece of white linen\nrag, dipped in the oil and spirit, rub the soiled\nparts, keep shifting the rag as it gets dirty;\nit will take several days to do, but keep the\nparts well soaked where dirty with oil after\nevery rubbing; but by no means scrape it.\n3. Ordinary Paraffin Oil.— Slightly saturate a\nrag of soft silk, and proceed to wash your\nviolin therewith. The effect is almost magical;\nthe paraffin dissolves the crust of dirt and\nresin and cleans the varnish without injuring.\n4. For the outside, a strongish solution of\nwashing soda applied with piece of flannel.\nIf you find the soda removes the varnish (as it\ndoes with some oil varnishes), use soap and\nwater, and then paraffin. When clean, rub with\nlinseed oil; spirits of wine removes the old\nresin at once, but sometimes takes the varnish\nwith it. For the inside, get a handful of rice,\nsteep it in solution of sugar and water five\nminutes, strain off, and nearly dry the rice till\njust sticky. Put in at soundholes and shake\ntill tired. This will pick up all dirt, then turn\nout.\nViolin Bows. 1. Take a small piece of flannel,\nwet it, cold process, well rub it with best yel-\nlow soap, double it, holding the hair gently be\ntween the finger and thumb, rub gently till\nclean, using plenty of soap, rinse flannel, wipe\noff, then wipe dry with a piece of calico or\nlinen in an hour afterward it will be ready\nfor the resin.\n2. A solution of borax and water.\nWall Papers, to Clean.— 1. To remove all stains\nor marks where people have rested their heads,\nfrom wall papers, mix pipe clay with water to\nthe consistency of cream, lay it on the spot,\nand allow it to remain till the following day,\nwhen it may be easily removed with a penknife\nor brush.\n2. If not very dirty, the paper of any room\nwill be much improved by brushing it over in\nstraight lines with a soft broom, covered with\na clean, soft cloth; if, however, the paper be\nmuch soiled, very stale bread is the best thing\nto clean it with. Cut a very stale quatern\nloaf into slices, and, in the lightest manner\npossible, wipe the paper with it in a downward\ndirection. Clean about a yard at a time, all\none way, and be careful to leave no marks.\nBy this process very dirty paper hangings may\nbe made to look almost like new.\nWalls, to Clean Smoky.— Brush well, wash with\na strong solution pearlash, rinse at once with\nclear water. Then give the walls when dry a\nthin coat of fresh slaked lime, with consider-\nable alum dissolved in hot water added. After\nthis has dried apply whiting and good size.\nWash ing Co impound. Jack in a n s. 1. 6 lb.\nsal soda, 1 lb. borax, dissolve in 1 gal. boiling\nwater. When cold, add lb. potassium car-\nbonate, 3 oz. liquid ammonia, 4 spoonfuls alco-\nhol. Boil for five minutes lb. fresh, unslaked\nlime in 1 gal. water. Draw off the clear fluid\nwhen thoroughly settled. Add to this the\nother ingredients With 9 gal. cold water.\nDirections for using; Soak the clothes over-\nnight, after rubbing soft soap on the dirty\nplaces. In the morning add 34 pt. of the com-\npound, 34 Pt. soft soap, and 4 gal. hot water.\nBoil not more than five minutes, and turn into\na tub, putting into your boiler the same mix-\nture as before. Wring the clothes into this\nand boil again ten minutes, suds, blue, and\nhang them out to dry. Should the wrist-\nbands or parts that are very dirty need a little\nrubbing, it should be done while the mixture\nis boiling.\n2. Wash Mixture.— Take 5 lb. bar soap, shave\nfine, add 1 qt. lye, 34 oz. pearlash, dissolved\nover a slow fire. When dissolved, put into a\nvessel prepared for it to stand in; then add 34\npt. turpentine, 1 gill hartshorn; stir well, and\nit is ready for use.\n3. Dissolve 34 lb. soda in 1 gal. boiling water,\nand pour upon it 34 lb. lime. After this has\nsettled, cut up 10 oz. of common bar soap, and\nstrain the solution upon it and mix perfectly.\nGreat care must be taken that no particles of\nlime are poured upon the soap. Prepare the\nmixture the evening before washing.\nDirections To 10 gal. water add the above\npreparation when the water is boiling. Each\nlot of linen must boil half an hour, and the\nsame liquid will answer for three batches of\nclothes. The white clothes must be put in\nsoak overnight, and if the collars and wrist-\nbands are soaped and rubbed slightly, so much\nthe better. Clean cold water may be used for\nrinsing. Some prefer boiling them for a few\nmoments in clean bluing water, and after-\nward rinse in cold water.\n4. The following compound is said greatly to\nfacilitate the washing of clothes Dissolve 2 lb.\nbar soap in about 3 gal. of water as hot as the\nhand can bear. Add 1 tablespoonful of tur-\npentine and 3 of ammonia. Stir, and steep\nthe clothes in this for three hours, keeping the\nvessel tightly covered. Then wash the clothes\nin the usual way. The soap and water may be\nused a second time, in which case a teaspoon-\nful of turpentine and the same amount of am-\nmonia must be added. This treatment is cal-\nculated to save much labor in cleansing sum-\nmer clothes stained by fruit, etc.\n5. The German washerwomen use a mixture\nof 2 oz. turpentine and 1 oz. spirits of ammonia\nwell mixed together. This is put into a bucket\nof warm water, in which 34 lb. soap has been\ndissolved. The clothes are immersed for\ntwenty-four hours and then washed. The\ncleansing is said to be greatly quickened, and\ntwo or three rinsings in cold water remove the\nturpentine smell.\n6. Borax is valuable for laundry use, instead\nof soda. Add a handful of it, powdered, to-\nabout 10 gal. of boiling water, and you need\nuse only half the ordinary allowance of soap.\nFor laces, cambrics, etc., use an extra quantity\nof the powder. It will not injure the texture\nof the cloth in the least.\nWashing Powders.— Hager, in Phar. Central-\nhalle, gives the following analyses","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0132.jp2"},"133":{"fulltext":"Cleansing;.\n121\nClothing.\n1. The so-called English Washing Crystal is\nan impure, half efflorescent crystallized soda,\ncontaining a large proportion of sulphate of\nsoda and common salt.\n2. Under the name of Washing Crystals sim-\nply a filtered solution of borax and soda has\nbeen introduced.\n3. The English Patent Cleansing Crystal\nWashing Powder is a half efflorescent soda,\ncontaining about 25^ of Glauber s salts.\n4. The Washing and Cleansing Crystals (Har-\nper Twelvetrees Sons) are pare crystallized\nsoda, with 1 to 2% of borax.\n5. Krimmelbein s Wool Washing Composition\nis a mixture of 35 parts of dried soda, 1U parts\nof soap powder, and 10 parts of sal ammoniac.\n6. Ward s Wool Washer is a mixture of 90\nparts of effloresced soda crystals with 10 parts\nof soap powder.\n7. The Universal Washing Powder (Henkel s)\nis a water glass containing soda, with a small\npercentage of tallow soap and starch powder.\n8. Hudson s Soap Extract is a mixture of\ncrystallized soda and soda soap, containing\nwater (soap 14*3, anhydrous soda 30, and water\n55).\n9. A washing powder for the finest white\nlinen is a powdery mixture of 90 parts of efflo-\nresced soda with 10 parts of hyposulphite of\nsoda and 2 parts of borax.\n10. The so-called Finest Brilliant Elastic\nStarch is a mixture of about 7 to 8 parts of\nstearine, with 100 parts of wheaten starch\n(melted stearine is mixed with about fifteen\ntimes its weight of starch, and after cooling\npowdered and combined with the rest of the\nstarch).\n11. The Berlin Prepared Brilliant Dressing\nStarch is good wheaten starch, mixed with 2\nto 2y 2 of borax.\nWax, to Clean.— Melt the wax in a jar, and\nput into it powdered nitrate of soda (Chili salt-\npeter) in the proportion of 1 oz. to the lb. of\nwax; afterward add, by degrees, 2 oz. to the\nlb. of sulphuric acid, diluted with ten times its\nweight of water, keeping the wax warm and\nstirring the while. Let it stand a short time,\nand then fill up the jar with hot water, and\nallow the whole to cool. The wax should then\nbe white. Afterward wash with water to re-\nmove any nitric acid that may remain, as it\nwould make the wax yellow.\nWindows, Washing of.— In washing windows\na narrow-bladed wooden knife, sharply pointed,\nwill take out the dust that hardens in the cor-\nners of the sash. Dry whiting will polish the\nglass, which should first be washed with weak\nblack tea mixed with a little alcohol. Save the\ntea leaves for the purpose.\nWindow Glass, Removal of Paint and Putty\nfrom.— Put sufficient salerafus into hot water\nto make a strong solution, and with this satu-\nrate the paint which adheres to the glass. Let\nit remain until nearly dry, then rub it off with\na woolen cloth.\nWindows, Powder for Cleaning.— 1. Calcined\nmagnesia is moistened with benzine. Apply\nwith a rag. Mix up for use, or keep in a glass\nstoppered bottle.\n2. Mix 1 part olive oil, 1 part ammonia, 2\nparts lime, and 1 part water to a thick paste.\nWool, to Clean.— The Leipziger Muster-Zeitung\nfur Faerberei, which is likely to be good au-\nthority on such subjects, expresses its views on\ncleaning woolens as follows\n1. The liquid used for washing must be as hot\nas possible.\n2. For the removal of greasy dirt, sweat, etc.,\nborax is of so little value that its application\nwould be mere waste. Soap lye alone is better,\nbut the preference must be given to soap lye\nalong with ammonia. This mixture works\nwonders by quickly dissolving dirt from par-\nticular parts of underclothing which are hard\nto cleanse. It raises and revives even bright\ncolors, and is altogether excellent.\n3. On the other hand, for cleaning white\nwoolen goods, there is nothing Avhich even ap-\nproaches borax. Soap lye and borax, applied\nboding hot, gives white woolens a looseness\nand a dazzling whiteness which they often do\nnot possess when new.\n4. If shrinking is to be entirelv avoided, the\ndrying must be accelerated by repeatedly\npressing the woolens between soft cloths. In\nno case should woolens be let dry in the sun, as\nin this case they become dry and hard. They\nare best dried in a moderate current of air, and\nin cold weather in a warm place, not too near\nthe stove.\n5. For colored goods there should be pre-\npared a lye of 7 qt. of soft water and\n2 oz. of the best soft soap, the quan-\ntities being, of course, modified according\nto judgment and the dirtiness of the articles.\nThe soap is dissolved over the fire, and the lye,\nproperly stirred up, is divided into two vessels,\nto one of which is added a teaspoonf ul of am-\nmonia for each quart of lye. The woolens\nmust be entered at a heat which the hand can-\nnot bear, and the fabric must, consequently, be\nturned and pressed with smooth, wooden stir-\nrers. They are then pressed out as far as pos-\nsible, and transferred to the second lye, con-\ntaining no ammonia, and which by this time\nhas become so cool that the articles can be\npressed by hand, but no twisting or wringing\nmust take place. They are then pressed be-\ntween three or four soft dry towels, till the\nlatter no longer become wet.\n6. For white woolens there is added, instead\nof ammonia, a teaspoonful of powdered borax\nto each qt. of soap lye, and the operation is\notherwise conducted exactly as above de-\nscribed. If the second lye is too soapy, it may\nbe diluted with a little hot water.\n7. After two or three lots of woolens have\nthus been washed, the lye must be heated\nagain— the first lot being put aside to settle,\nthe second being made first— with the addition\nof ammonia or borax, as the case may be, and\nfresh lye made for the second.\nZinc, Cleaning.— To clean zinc, mix 1 part\nsulphuric acid with 12 parts water. Dip the\nzinc into it for a few seconds; then rub with a\ncloth.\nZinc Vessels, to Clean.— Zinc articles, if small,\ncan be cleaned by being pickled in hydrochlo-\nric acid with water added, till the articles are\nnicely cleaned, in about three minutes, with-\nout being too strongly attacked, then washed\nand dried. Large articles like refrigerators\nare cleaned by being rubbed with a swab*\ndipped in raw spirits, then washed with water,\nand finished with whiting.\nClearing Solutions. See Photo-\ngraphy.\nCliche Metal. See Alloys.\nClochs and Watches, to Clean. See\nCleansing.\nClothing, Fireproof. See Fireproof-\ning:.\nClothing, Oiled.— To make them, with-\nout making them sticky, they must be dried\nat about 150° Fah. by artificial heat. The sun\nwill do it on a hot day. Set as much boiled oil\nas is necessary, mix enough lampblack to\nblacken them, if for black work if yellow, use\nground yellow ocher instead. Then lay the\nfabric on a smooth surface, and put the oil on\nwith a brush— a shoe brush is the best, let the\nfirst coat get quite dry before putting on an-\nother. A little patent drier will make it dry\nquicker, say H lb. to a gal. of oil; if the last\ncoat remains sticky after it is dry. give it a\nlight coat of shellac dissolved in alcohol. Lay\nthe oil on as thin as possible or it will not dry.\nOr dissolve 1 oz. beeswax (genuine) in 1 pt.\nboiled linseed oil, using a low heat. Kub it\nwell in, and in general follow directions as\nabove.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0133.jp2"},"134":{"fulltext":"Cloths.\n122\nCocoa.\nClotlis, Cement for. See Cements.\nClotlis, to Remove Spots and Stains\nfrom See Cleansing.\nCloths, to Waterproof. See Water-\nproofing.\nCloth, Tracing. See Tracing Cloth.\nCloth, to Prepare for Writing on.—\nVarnish the cloth with Canada balsam dis-\nsolved in turpentine, to which may be added a\nfew drops of castor oil, but do not add too\nmuch, or it will not dry. Try a little piece\nfirst with a small quantity of varnish. The\nkind of cloth to use is fine linen. Don t let the\nvarnish be too thick.\nClove Cordial. See Liquors.\nC o al, C aki ng Coal which has the property\nof giving off abundance of gas and hardening\nsubsequently. The caking coal is largely used\nin smiths fires and for gas making.\nCobalt, to Plate with. See Electro-\nMetallurgy.\nCobbler, Sherry.— 1. Put into a pint tum-\nbler a tablespoonf ul of pulverized sugar, 1 gill\nof sherry wine, a small slice of orange, the\nsame of pineapple, and the sunny side of a ripe\npeach then fill to the brim with crushed ice.\nInvert another tumbler of exactly the same\nsize upon this, being careful that the edges fit\nclosely together grasp the two with both\nhands and shake rapidly together for at least\none minute, then remove the upper tumbler,\npile and heap ice crushed to a fine hail upon the\ncobbler make an incision in the top of this ice,\nin which place a sprig or two of mignonette,\ndust the ice slightly with rose colored sugar\nsand decorate the rim of the glass with two\nor three roses, and at one side of the glass slip\ndown to the bottom a large rye straw, to which\napply the lips and commence to imbibe— and\nso gratify the senses of sight, of smell, and of\ntaste at one and the same time.\n2. One wineglass of sherry and teaspoonf ul\nof sugar, and one or two slices of orange. Fill\na tumbler with shaved ice, shake well, and or-\nnament with berries in season.\nCoca and Calisaya.— Coca wine, 1 oz.; cal-\nisaya elixir, 1 oz.; orange sirup, 6 oz.\nCoca Tonic for Soda Fountains.— Coca\nwine, 1 oz.; orange sirup, 3 oz.\nCoca Wine. See Wines.\nCoccine.— An orange scarlet dye containing,\nalong with aurantia (bromnitro fluoresceine),\nthe ammoniacal salt of hexanitro diphenyla-\nmine.\nCochineal.— A small insect, parasitical on\nthe nopal, a species of the cactus, cultivated in\nMexico and the Canary Islands. The females,\nwhich are by far the most numerous, have no\nwings, and the legs are very imperfectly de-\nveloped, which gives the insect the appearance\nof a shriveled berry. The coloring matter of\ncochineal appears to have acid properties, and\nis known as carminic acid.\nCochineal Coloring.— The following is a good\nformula for preparing this coloring Cochineal,\nalum, cream tartar, carb. potassa, each 3 drm.;\nwater, 8 oz.; sugar, 6 oz. Rub the cochineal,\nalum and cream tartar with 8 oz. of boiling\nwater, and when cold gradually add carb. po-\ntassa, and strain pour water on the strainer\nsufficient to measure 8 fluid oz., then add the\nsugar.\nLiquid Cochineal.— The following is from an\nexhaustive paper on the subject printed in The\nChemist and Druggi-t, May, 1881, and is the sim-\nplest and best that has yet been given for co-\nchineal coloring Finest silver grain cochineal,\n1 oz.; subcarbonate of potash, 1 oz.; potash alum,\n1 oz.; citric acid, oz.; sugar, 1 oz.; water, a\nsufficient quantity. Boil the cochineal (bruised)\nin a glass or copper vessel of suitable capacity,\nin 8 oz. of water, to which the subcarbonate of\npotash has been added. Mix loosely the alum\nand citric acid in powder, and add gradually to\nthe boiling liquid, and continue to boil until\neffervescence has entirely ceased. While still\nhot filter on to the sugar, and wash the filter\nwith hot water sufficient to make the whole\nmeasure 12 oz.\nCochineal Solution.— Dissolve 1 grm. of the\ncochineal in 75 c. c. of 20% alcohol. Alkalies red-\nden it, while acids bleach it.\nCockroaches.— 1. Borax is the best cock-\nroach exterminator yet discovered. This\ntroublesome insect has a peculiar aversion to it,\nand will never return where it has once been\nscattered. As the salt is perfectly harmless to\nhuman beings, it is much to be preferred for\nthis purpose to the poisonous substances com-\nmonly usedi\n2. Mixture of red lead, Indian meal and mo-\nlasses will be eagerly eaten by them and will\nsoon exterminate them. Paris green, phos-\nphorus, or arsenic are sometimes used, but are\nvery dangerous. Borax, to which cockroaches\nhave a great antipathy, will drive them away.\n3. Scatter cucumber parings around the parts\nof the house troubled with these vermin.\n1. Take 2 oz. carbolic acid and 2 oz. powdered\ncamphor. Place in a bottle and let it remain\nuntil it becomes a fluid. Put the mixture with\na small brush on the places where the roaches\nhide, which will bring them out at once. Then\nkill them.\n5. Borax sprinkled about the parts where they\nhide will effectually drive them away.\n6. Corrosive sublimate sprinkled around the\nplaces which the roaches infest will kill them\nquickly. Be careful, however, with this sub-\nstance.\n7. Make a strong decoction of poke root.\nWhen the strength is extracted, remove the\nroots mix the liquor with molasses, and spread\nit on large platters in the places they frequent.\nThey may thus be slain by thousands. The\nboiled roots laid on your closet shelves will as-\nsist in keeping them away.\n8. Scatter common wafers in the places they\nfrequent they will eat greedily of them and\nbe poisoned.\nCocktail, Bottle.— To make a splendid\nbottle of brandy cocktail, use the following:\nOne-half brandy, J4 water, 1 small glass of bit-\nters (Bogart s is the best), 1 wineglass of gum\nsirup, J4 pony glass of curacoa. Whisky and\ngin cocktails, in bottles, may be made by using\nthe above recipe, and substituting these liquors\ninstead of brandy.\nCocoa Flake.— This is formed by grinding\nthe nibs in a mill, consisting of two cones, work-\ning one inside the other. Pure flake cocoa is\nnot a diluted or amalgamated article in other\nwords it contains no sugar, and but a trace of\nstarch.\nCocoa Nibs.— The bruised roasted seeds, freed\nfrom husk and membrane. They ought to be\nof a dull red or grayish color, but are fre-\nquently given a bright red color by a coating\nof Venetian red.\nCocoa, Soluble. Cocoa nibs and sub-\nstances which are readily soluble or diffusible\nin water, ground together. Sugar, and sago or\narrowroot, are the diluents used by respect-\nable makers, but all kinds of starches, colored\nwith Venetian red, are used for the trashy\narticles. The following are the principal varie-\nties of the so-called soluble cocoa.\n1. Cocoa, Granulated.— COcoa nibs, and suffi-\ncient sugar and arrowroot to keep the fatty\nparticles from forming a pasty mass.\n2. Cocoa, Homeopathic— A kind of soluble\ncocoa, prepared with arrowroot, but without\nsugar.\nCocoa, Maravilla.— This is stated to be the\nperfection of prepared cocoa. It consists of\ncocoa, sugar and sago flour, the last two being\nin great excess. No warm drink that we take\napproaches cocoa in its nutritive character,\nbecause while performing to a certain extent","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0134.jp2"},"135":{"fulltext":"Cod.\n123\nColoring.\nthe exhilarating work of coffee or tea, it pre-\nsents to the stomach a very considerable quan-\ntity of nitrogenous and carbonaceous matter.\nThis advantage is partly due to the fact that\ncocoa is taken in the form of an emulsion,\ninstead of an infusion or decoction.\nCod. Ldver Oil Mixture.— It makes a\nreally delicious emulsion. Yelks of 2 eggs;\npowdered sugar, 4 oz.; essence oil almonds, 2\ndrops; orange flower water, 2 oz. Mix care-\nfully, and add an equal bulk of cod liver oil.—\nHcder.\nCoeruleine.— A green dye obtained from\ngalleme, on heating with a large excess of sul-\nphuric acid. It is manufactured by Durant\nand Huguenin, of Bale, and yields in dyeing and\nprinting exceedingly fast shades on cotton.\nAluminous mordants give green, iron mor-\ndants, browns, and mixtures of the two olives\nThe commercial paste contains 2Q% of the pure\ncolor.\nCoffee, Arabian.— To make it in Arab\nfashion proceed as follows Roast some raw\nnibs, and pound them down when your water\nis boiling put in the coffee so treated, and stir\nit about. Next place the pot again on the fire,\nand carefully manipulate it, if occasion re-\nquires, till simmering sets in, when you must\nimmediately remove it, and pour the contents\ninto the cup. Milk or cream should never be\nadded, but a little soft brown sugar may be\nused to suit the taste also a little cardamom\nseed. Smoking a pipe of Turkish tobacco is\nonly needed to give additional flavoring to\nyour sips, and to transport you temporarily to\nthe delights of the Moslem s paradise.\nCoffee, Iced.— Make a strong infusion of\nMocha or other good coffee put in a porcelain\nbowl, sugar it properly, and add to it an equal\nportion of boiled milk or one-third the quan-\ntity of rich cream. Surround the bowl with\npowdered ice. This beverage is recom-\nmended tor persons who have lost their appe-\ntite, or who experience general debility.\nCoffee, Substitutes for.— These are num-\nerous, but the principal are the following\nnl R u ffee lJiUeni us ditto. Hunt s\nBreakfast Powder.— Rye roasted along with\na ?S butter and ground to powder. A good\noU* Do Lit, Ut0,\n2. German Coffee. Succory ditto. Chiccory ditto.\n-*rom succory as above. Used either for or\nmixed with foreign coffee. The most common\nadulteration of the latter.\n3. Rice Coffee— From rice, as above. A good\n4. Currant Coffee.- From the seeds washed out\nottlie cake left in making currant wine\nas the°last 6n y Co ee From gooseberry seeds,\n6. Holly Coffee.-From the berries.\nt. Egyptian Coffee— From chickpeas.\no. Rosetta Coffee.— From fenugreek seeds\nmoistened with lemon juice U 1W seeQ s,\nknee C hoU Can Co ee -From the seeds of the\n10. Sassafras Coffee.-From the fruit or nut\n?^i he sassafras tree, or from the wood cut\ninto ch.ps. Very wholesome. Much recom-\nmended in skin diseases, etc.\n,iL? a,spm!y,s -T The raspings of the crust of\n^oaves .procured at the baker s. Equal to rye\n™S; B e echma *t Wee. -From beechmast or\nnuts. Very wholesome.\n+»3 A x co n Coffee.-From acorns, deprived of\nSuSftufe 8 USk6d dried and roaste\nroot S ?SS S^ ee *rf rom the yellow beet\nwith nftt if T d n a kll or oven and ground\nwith a httle foreign coffee. A good substi-\nwmi C uttSu ffee norse beans roasted along\nfrom th h0ney r su ar When removed\nfrom the fire, a small quantity of cassia buds is\nfrequently added, and the whole is stirred\nuntil cold. Said to be a good substitute.\n16. Almond Coffee.— Rye or wheat roasted\nalong with a few almonds. A very small quan-\ntity of cassia buds improves it. A good sub-\nstitute.\nc A ff Tc8l: f °r«— Add basic acetate of\nlead to the decoction, filter, and precipitate the\nexcess of lead by means of sulphide of hydrogen\ngas, which will precipitate sulphide of lead\nWhen evaporating the clear remaining liquid\nyou may crystallize out the caffein, if the\ndecoction contained real coffee. The easiest\ndefinite test to recognize the caffein is freshly\nmade chlorine water if this is poured on the\nremnant of a dried-up solution, and this dried\nagain, it will become red as blood as this test is\nvery delicate, you can, if the dried-up decoc-\ntion does not show this color, be sure that no\ncoffee at ail was used to make your boardin°-\nhouse coffee.\nCoignet Beton, See Cements.\nCoins, to Clean. See Cleansing.\noke 0n an average 50 lb. of cannel coal\nwill yield a bushel of coke.\nColcothar. Another name for rouse\nwhich see.\nCold Cream, See Creams.\nCold Sore, Herpes labidlis, generally known\nas breaking out, attacks the margins of the\nlips, and most frequently accompanies a cold\nm the head. It is too well known to need de-\nscription. Treatment Oxide of zinc, 10 parts-\noxide of bismuth, 20 parts; powdered starch, 20\nparts; oxide of iron, 2 parts; silica, 20 parts;\noxide of aluminum, 8 parts; oxide of mag-\nnesium, 10 parts; powdered chalk, 10 parts. The\nabove should be mixed into a fine powder, and\nthen be made into a paste with an equal quan-\ntity of glycerine this should be gently rubbed\ninto and spread over the parts nightly.\nCollars and Cuffs, to, Wash. See\nCleansing-, Shirts.\nCollodion.— Blistering Collodion— The ethe-\nreal extract of cantharides, dissolved in collo-\ndion, forms a most convenient, active, and\nclearly blistering liquid. If the blister is opened\nat the side, the film of collodion remains un-\nbroken; and, by thus protecting the sore, ob-\nviates the necessity of dressing it with oint-\nment.\nCollodion Cement. See Cements.\nColored Collodion.— 1. Take of collodion, 1\noz.; annatto (pure), dragon s blood (genuine),\not each 3 gr.; digest, with agitation, in a stop-\npered phial for 24 hours; and, if necessary, de-\ncant the clear portion.\n2. Take of collodion, 2 oz.; palm oil, 1 drm\nalkanet root, q. s., 15 gr.; digest, etc., as before.\nThis is the Collodium Tinctum of the\nCutaneous Hospital. It dries of a good skin\ncolor; but it is not so strong as the product\nof the preceding formula.\nCollodion. See Photography.\nGlycerine Collodion.— Collodion, 150 parts;\nglycerine, 3 parts. Dissolve the glycerine in\nthe collodion.\nColloids.— In contradistinction to crystal-\nloids stand colloids or colloidal bodies, so named\nfrom glue, which is a familiar specimen. Bodies\nof this class, when reassuming the solid state,\nafter solution, never take any regular specific\ngeometrical form. Whether evaporated slowly\nor rapidly, they dry up in irregular masses,\nwhich, if struck, break up as rapidly in one\ndirection as another. Familiar examples of\ncolloid bodies are gelatine, gums, and albu-\nmen. They are readily separated from the\ncrystalloids by the process of dialysis.\nCologne. See Waters.\nColoring oi Metals. See the name of\nthe metals, and also Blacking, Bluing,\nBrowning, Lacquering, etc.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0135.jp2"},"136":{"fulltext":"Colza.\n134\nCompositions.\nColza Oil. See Oils.\nCombs, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nCombs, Lacquer for. See Lacquers,\nComedones. 1. The black points, flesh\nworms, or comedones, wuich are found in the\nface, and especially near the nostrils, are not at\nall produced by the accumulation of the parti-\ncles of dirt or dust, as has generally been be-\nlieved, but by pigmentary matter which is solu-\nble in acids. The following treatment has been\nrecommended: Kaolin 4 parts, glycerine 3 parts,\nacetic acid 2 parts, with or without the addi-\ntion of a small quantity of some ethereal oil.\nWith this pomade cover the parts affected in\nthe evening, and, if need be, during the day.\nAfter several days all the comedones can be\neasily expressed; most of them even come out\nby washing the parts with pumice stone\nsoap. The same results can be obtained by\nbandaging the parts affected for along time\nwith vinegar, lemon juice, or diluted hydro-\nchloric acid. The acids act like cosmetics, as\nthey transform the black color into a brown\nand yellow shade and destroy it gradually alto-\ngether.\n2. Make a pomade of kaolin, 2 parts; glycer-\nine 3 parts acetic acid, 2 parts; with or with-\nout the addition of a small quantity of some\nethereal oil. Apply it at night. See also\nAcne.\nCompositions. Alcarezzas, Composition\nfor.—l. Sandy marl, 2 parts brine q. s.; then\nknead in common salt in tine powder, 1 part.\nBake the pieces slowly and lightly.\n2. Good clay, 2 parts; fine siliceous sand, 3\nparts; brine, q. s.; common salt, 1 to 2 parts, as\nbefore. Avoid over-firing.\nCarton Pierre. See Carton Pierre in gen-\neral alphabet.\nComposition to Fill Holes in Castings.— I. Dry\nclay, 6 parts borax in solution, V/% part. Mix.\n2. Make a thick paste of pulverized binoxide\nof manganese and a strong solution of silicate\nof soda.\nDoor Plates, Composition for.— The compo-\nsition is merely sealing wax run on the plates\nwhen they were hot, and then scraped off with\na scraper.\nFlexible Insulating Mass.— Shellac, 40 parts by\nweight; dry, finely pulverized asbestos, flax\ncotton, wood, or paper, 40 parts wood tar, 25\nparts; mineral wax (paraffin, ozocerite) 134\nparts. Mix these ingredients together in a\nvessel at 100° to 200° Fah. Stir constantly.\nIf a harder mass is desired, use less tar. For a\nvery hard mass, put in less asbestos, and leave\nout the wax. Add about 30 parts ground slate\nor clay whicii does not contain iron.\nMass for Artificial Flowers and Fruits. Mix\nbread crumbs, magnesia, and finely powdered\nstarch. When fermented it can be formed\nand colored to any pattern. Use the lakes to\ncolor, and a solution of gamboge in alcohol for\na varnish.\nGun Sights, Composition for. See Gun\nSin bts.\nGutta PercJm Composition.— A hard com-\nposition is made of the following: Gutta\npercha,6 parts; ivory or bone dust, 2 parts;\npipe clay, 1 part. It has a light color.\nInsulating Compounds Chatterton s for Join-\ning the Layers of G.P. in Cable Core.— Stock-\nholm tar, 1 part resin, 1 part gutta percha,\n3 parts.\nClark s, for Coating the Sheathing of Cables.—\nMineral pitch, 65 parts sand, 30 parts tar, 5\nparts.\nOrnaments from Wood Mass. To produce a\ncheap composition for moulding, mirror, and\npicture frames, rosettes, etc. 1. Take 12 parts\nwhiting; 6 parts of fine sifted sawdust; V/%\nparts linseed oil cake. Knead this mass to a\npaste with a strong solution of glue.\n2. 8 parts pulverized litharge; 16 parts\nwhite lead 2 parts fine sawdust 20 parts\nplaster of Paris stir these ingredients into 26\nparts of glue dissolved in water q. s.\n3. Melt 2 parts black pitch in 4 parts oil of\nturpentine liquefy 4 parts glue in 4 parts of\nlinseed oil. Mix the two together, add 4 parts\nof fine sifted sawdust, 4 parts whiting, and 4\nparts colcothar.\n4. Form a paste of the desired consistency\nby mixing plaster of Paris and sawdust with\nglue water q. s.\nThe moulds should be oiled, and the mass\npressed carefully into them.\nPads, Composition for Padding. See Pads.\nPatterns, Composition for. The following\ncomposition is commonly used Soften 12 lb.\ngood glue in water enough to cover it, then\nheat until the glue is dissolved. Melt 7 lb. resin*\nYo, lb pitch, and 2}4 pts. linseed oil together.\nStir the hot glue solution into this and add\nenough whiting to thicken. It should be\nmixed in small quantities and used at once;\notherwise it will require steaming before it\ncan be used.\nPicture Frame Composition.— 1. Dissolve 1 lb.\nof glue in 1 gal. of water in another kettle boil\ntogether 2 lb. of rosin, 1 gill of Venice turpen-\ntine, and 1 pt. linseed oil mix all together in\none kettle, and continue to boil and stir them,\ntogether until the water has evaporated from,\nthe other ingredients then add finely pulver-\nized whiting till the mass is brought to the con-\nsistence of soft putty. This composition is\nhard when cold, but when warmed can be\nmoulded to any shape.\n2. Mix 14 lb. of glue, 7 lb. rosin, }4 lb. pitch,\n2]4 pt. linseed oil, 5 pt. of water, more or less\naccording to the quantity required. Boil the\nwhole together, well stirring until dissolved,\nadd as much whiting as will render it of a hard\nconsistency, then press it into a mould which\nhas been previously oiled with sweet oil. No\nmore should be mixed than can be used before\nit becomes sensibly hard. Gold size is then put\non, several coats being considered necessary,\nthen the gold leaf itself, which is burnished in\ncourse of time, and finally covered with finish-\ning size.\n3. 12 parts of glue 4 parts of litharge 8 parts\nof white lead plaster of Paris, 1 part fine\nsawdust, 10 parts. Pour into sectional moulds\npreviously coated with olive oil.\nPlastic Composition.— By mixing pounded\nfragments of mica with a proper proportion of\nshellac, a composition is formed which can be\nmoulded with ease.— Science Record. 187U.\nRubber Composition. Cooper s best glue, 8%\nlb. extra sirup, 2 gal. glycerine, 1 pt. Venice\nturpentine, 2 oz. Steep the glue in rain water\nuntil pliant and drain it well. Then melt it over\na moderate fire, but do not cook it. This\nwill take 15 to 25 minutes. Next put in the\nsirup, and boil for three-quarters of an hour,\nstirring it occasionally and skimming off impu-\nrities rising to the surface. Add the glycerine\nand turpentine a few minutes before removing\nfrom the fire, and pour slowly. Slightly reduce\nor increase the glue as the weather becomes\ncolder or warmer.\nToys, Composition for. Fine ground argilla-\nceous slate, 50 per cent. rag paper paste, 20 per\ncent. and 30 per cent, of burnt plaster are\nmixed with the necessary volume of water to\nform a paste, which is then cast in moulds, the\nmoulds having been previously daubed with\nfinely ground slate, powdered plaster, or fat.\nA sufficiently thick crust will form in a few\nminutes, when the residuum of the mixture\nmust be poured out of the mould. The mix-\nture, which is unbreakable, hardens very rap-\nidly. The castings thus produced may be im-\nmersed in paraffin or stearine, or they can be\njapanned. In the latter case it is desirable, so\nas not to consume too much paint, to first\napply a coat of quick-drying boiled oil, and","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0136.jp2"},"137":{"fulltext":"Concentration.\n135\nCopying.\nwhen the oil has become hard, the article is to\nbe painted.\nUnclassified Composition. Five parts of\nsifted whiting mixed with a solution of one\npart glue, together with a little Venice turpen-\ntine to obviate the brittleness, makes a good\nplastic material which may be kneaded into\nfigures or any desired shape. It should be kept\nwarm while being worked. It becomes as hard\nas stone when dry.\nConcentration. The evaporation or vol-\natilization of a portion of a fluid by which the\nstrength of the remainder is increased. In\npharmacy the term concentrated is applied to\nany liquid possessing more than the usual\nstrength. The operation can only be perf ormed\non solutions of substances of greater fixity\nthan the menstrua in which they are dissolved.\nConcrete. See Cements.\nConductivity, Heat and Electrical.—\nSubstances.\nHeat\nConductivity.\nElectrical\nConductivity.\nSilver\n1000\n73-6\n532\n23-6\n199\n145\n12\n119\n8-5\n64\n63\n1-8\nICO O\nGold\nBrass\n73-3\n58-5\n21 5\nTin\nSteel\nPlatinum\nBismuth\n22 6\ni3 6\n10-7\n10*3\ni 9\nScientific American Reference Book.\nConductivity, Electrical, of*Metals.—\nAccording to Matthiessen, the electrical con-\nductivity of the principal metals, under similar\nconditions, is as follows\nSilver 100*0\nCopper 99*9\nGold 80 0\nAluminum 56 0\nSodium 37*4\nZinc 99*0\nCadmium 23*7\nPotassium 20 8\nPlatinum 18*0\nIron 16 8\nTin 13 1\nLead 83\nGerman silver... 7*7\nAntimony 4*6\nMercury 1.6\nBismuth. 1*2\nConfectionery, Varnish for. See Var-\nnishes.\nCoopers Metals. See Alloys.\nCopal Varnish. See Varnishes.\nCopal, Melted.— Obtained by holding the\ngum before a good fire, so that as soon as the\ncopal melts it may drop into a pan of water; a\nkind of oil separates from it, and the copal be-\ncomes soluble in spirits of wine, and still more\nso if the melting is repeated.\nCopal, Powdered.— Copal reduced to\npowder and exposed to the air in a thin stra-\ntum, on sieves covered with paper, for three or\nfour months. Soluble in alcohol.\nCopper, Amalgam. See Amalgam.\nCopper, to Blacken. See Blacking\nMetals.\nCopper, to Bronze. See Bronzing.\nCopper, to Brown. See Browning.\nCopper, to Coat with Iron.— Prof, Bott-\nger recommends the following solution for\ncoating copper plates with iron: 10 parts of\nferrocyanide of potassium and 20 parts of tar-\ntrate of soda are dissolved in 220 parts of dis-\ntilled water, adding a solution of 3 parts of sul-\nphate of iron in 50 parts of water. Caustic soda\nsolution is poured into the mixture until the\nPrussian blue formed is redissolved.\nCopper, Etching on, See Etching,,\nCopper, Fluxes for. See Fluxes.\nCopper, to Gild. See Gilding.\nCopper, Lacquer for. See Lacquers.\nCopper, to Oxidize. See Oxidizing.\nCopper Powder.— Copper powder used in\nmaking amalgams is prepared as follows Mix\nequal parts of a saturated solution of copper\nsulphate with hydrochloric acid, in this place a\nstrip of sheet zinc, the copper is thrown in fine\npowder; this is washed with alcohol and dried\nas quickly as possible.\nCopper, Solder for. See Soldering.\nCopper, Steel Gray on.— Dip the copper\narticles, which must be previously cleaned and\npickled, into a heated solution of hydrochloric\nacid and antimony chloride.\nCopper Sulphate.— To clean and crystal-\nlize the blue vitriol which is found in the bot-\ntom of dip jars. Dissolve in small quantity of\nhot water, cool slowly, and evaporate by ex-\nposure to the air.\nCopper, to Weld. See Welding.\nCopperas, Calcined. —Green copperas\nheated in an unglazed earthen pot until it be-\ncomes white and dry. Osedas an astringent\nand drier and in making ink and dyeing.\nCopperas Dip for Cast Iron.— Sulphate\nof copper, 1}4 lb.; dissolve and add 1 11. oz. sul-\nphuric acid.\nCopying Drawings. See also Photo-\ngraphy.— 1. Copies of drawings or designs in\nblack and white may be produced upon paper\nand linen by giving the surface of the latter\ntwo coatings of 217 gr. gum arabic, 70 gr. citric\nacid, 135 gr. iron chloride, J4 pt. water. The\nprepared material is printed under the draw-\ning and then immersed in a bath of yellow\nprussiate of potash, or of nitrate of silver, the\npicture thus developed being afterward put in\nwater slightly acidified with sulphuric or hy-\ndrochloric acid.\n2. Joltrain s.— Black lines on white ground.\nThe paper is immersed in the following solu-\ntion 25 oz. gum, 3 oz. chloride of sodium, 10\noz. perchlorideof iron (45° B.), 5 oz. sulphate of\niron, 4 oz. tartaric acid, 47 oz. water. The de-\nveloping bath is a solution of red or yellow\nprussiate of potash, neutral, alkaline, or acid.\nAfter being exposed, the positive is dipped in\nthis bath and the parts which did not receive\nthe light take a dark green color; the other\nparts do not change. It is then washed with\nwater in order to remove the excess of prussi-\nate, and dipped in a bath containing acetic, hy-\ndrochloric or sulphuric acid, when all the sub-\nstances which could affect the whiteness of the\npaper are removed. The lines have now an in-\ndigo black color. Wash in water and dry.\n3. Blue figures on a white ground are changed\ninto black by dipping the proof in a solution\nof 4 oz. common potash in 100 oz. water, when\nthe blue color gives place to a sort of rusty\ncolor, produced by iron oxide. The proof is\nthen dipped in a solution of 5 oz. tannin in 100\noz. water. The iron oxide takes up the tannin,\nchanging to a deep black color this is fixed by\nwashing in pure water.\n4. Benneden states that paper, prepared as\nfollows, costs but i as much as the ordinary\nsilver chloride paper, is as well adapted to the\nmultiplication of drawings and is simpler in its\nmanipulation. A solution of potash bichrom-\nate and albumen or gum, to which carbon, or\nsome pigment of any desired shade, has been\nadded, is brushed, as uniformly as possible,\nupon well-sized paper by lamplight, and the\npaper is dried in the dark. The drawing, exe-\ncuted on fine transparent paper (or an engrav-\ning- or woodcut, etc.) is then placed beneath a\nflat glass upon the prepared paper and exposed\nto the light for a length of time dependent\nupon the intensity of the light. The drawing-\nis removed from the paper by lamplight, and\nafter washing the latter with water, a negative","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0137.jp2"},"138":{"fulltext":"Copying.\n136\nCorns.\nof the drawing remains, since the portions of\nthe coating acted on by the light become in-\nsoluble in water. From such a negative any\nnumber of positives can be taken in the same\nway.— Mechanic s Own Book.\n5. Letterpress or illustrations printed in\nprinters 1 ink may be copied by simply wetting\na piece of stiff paper or card and rubbing it\nover with an agate burnisher or old tooth-\nbrush. If the ink has got dry through age or\nbeing kept in a hot room, moisten with spirits\nof wine or toilet vinegar. Have a soft blotting\npad beneath.\nCopying Ink. See Inks.\nCopying Pad. See Hektograph.\nCoral, Artificial.— To 2 drm. vermilion add\nloz. resin, and melt them together. Have ready\nthe branches or twigs peeled and dried, and\npaint them over with this mixture while hot.\nThe twigs being covered, hold them over a\ngentle fire turn them round till they are per-\nfectly smooth. White coral may also be made\nwith white lead, and black with lampblack\nmixed with resin.\nCoral to Clean. See Cleansing.\nCoralline, Peonine, Huri/ne. Colors ob-\ntained from carbolic acid by treatment w th\noxalic and sulphuric acids. They give certain\ndeep reds verging on a scarlet, and are employed\nin silk and woolen dyeing and in printing. The\nshades produced are tolerably fast against air\nand light, but are readily turned yellow by\nacids. Peonine seems to differ from red coral-\nline in its behavior, and is probably an amide\ncompound. Coralline lakes are extensively\nemployed in paper staining.\nCordage, to Protect. See Cleansing,\nMildew,\nCord, Gloss on. See Twine.\nCordials. See Liquors and Cordials.\nCore Sand. This sand should be coarse,\nporous, and very adhesive, such as rock sand,\nthe fine material from abraded rocks; free\nsand from river banks, or from the seashore,\nand pounded blast furnace cinder, etc., are\noften mixed with fine, strong sand, and a little\nclay to make it adhesive. In each case fresh\nsand must be used for a core, as old sand, burnt\nsand, or sand mixed with coal is not advisable.\n1 part clay mixed with 9 parts free sand is suffi-\nciently strong for small and simple cores, but for\nlarge and complicated ones a stronger sand is\nrequired.\nCoriander Water. See Liquors.\nCork Paper. See Paper.\nCork, to Work.— To work cork into sym-\nmetrical shapes, as pen handles, etc., cut ap-\nproximately to shapes with a wet knife, using\na drawing cut, and finish with a coarse emery\nwheel.\nCorks, Cement for. See Cements.\nCorks, Impervious (Bousquet s Patented\nProcess).— The corks should be heated tq 212°\nPah., in order to kill any spores which they\nmight contain. While the corks are hot dip\nthem in a solution of 1 part albumen (egg or\nblood albumen) in 200 parts water afterward\ndip in another solution composed of 1 part\ntannic acid, part salicylic acid, and 200 parts\nwater. Tannate of albumen is formed in the\npores of the corks. Salicylic acid acts as an\nantiseptic.\nCorks, Rubber, to Cut and Bore.—\n1. Dip the knife, or cork borer, in solution of\ncaustic potash or soda. The strength is of very\nlittle consequence, but it should not be weaker\nthan the ordinary reagent solution.\n2. Alcohol is generally recommended, and it\nworks well until it evaporates, which is gener-\nally long before the cork is cut or bored\nthrough, and more has to bo applied; water\nacts just as well as alcohol, and lasts longer.\nWhen, however, a tolerably sharp knife is\nmoistened with soda lye, it goes through the\nIndia rubber quite as easily as through com-\nmon cork and the same may be said of a cork\nborer, of whatever size. We have frequently\nbored inch holes in large caoutchouc stoppers,\nperfectly smooth and cylindrical, by this\nmethod. In order to finish the hole without\nthe usual contraction of its diameter, the stop-\nper should be held firmly against a flat surface\nof common cork until the borer passes into the\nlatter.\nCorn, to Can.— Among fruits, etc., green\ncorn is one of the most difficult to preserve by\ncanning. The following is the method in use\nby many of the large canning establishments.\nThe corn, after removing from the cob, is filled\ninto the clean cans so as to leave no air spaces.\nThese are placed in a large oven, or other air-\ntight vessel, and subjected to hot steam under\npressure. The harder the corn, the longer the\nexposure required to cure it it is said that in\nsome cases as much as eight hours is requisite,\nbut usually much less than this. A large vessel\nof boiling water, in which the cans are im-\nmersed, may be used instead of the steam oven,\nbut is not so effective. On removal from the\noven or water bath, as the case may be, each\ncan (they must be filled to the cover with\nfruit) has the cap with a very small hole tapped\nin its center immediately soldered on. As soon\nthereafter as the can stops blowing, as the es-\ncape of steam and air through the vent is\ntermed, the hole is quickly soldered. This must\nbe done before the air begins to enter. Other\nfruit is cured and canned in like manner— to-\nmatoes rarely require longer than fifteen to\ntwenty minutes steam curing. Where the pits\nare left in fruit a longer time is requisite to\ncompletely destroy all fermentative germs.\nCorns.— A corn is an abnormal growth of the\nepidermis, which increases in two directions—\noutwardly forming a callosity inwardly dip-\nping into the true skin. There are two kinds,\nhard and soft. The h ard generally form over\nsome pro jecting point of bone; the soft form\nbetween the toes. Causes: Irritation by pres-\nsure or friction, as from wearing tight shoes. A\npiece of cotton wool should be placed betAveen\nor under the toes, as the case may be, to relieve\nthe spot from friction.\n1. Salicylic acid 30 grn.\nCannabis Indica (Indian hemp) 5\nCastor oil y% drm.\nCollodion y% oz.\nMix and apply morning and evening for four\ndays. Then soak the feet in warm water. If\nthis be done faithfully, the corns are removed\nwithout any difficulty. The result is a clear,\nlight green solution. There should be no diffi-\nculty in its preparation. To prevent it from\nevaporating, keep the solution in a stoppered\nbottle. Be sure and use the Indian hemp, and\nnot the American article the latter is not\neasily soluble.\n2. Pomades for Corns Corn Salves. Savine\nointment, 1% oz.; verdigris (in fine powder), y±\noz. Mix.\n3. Dried carbonate of soda, Yz oz.; lard, 1 oz.,\nsmalts (to color), q. s. Mix. The above are\napplied on a piece of rag, and renewed night\nand morning. Sold under various names.\n4. Solvents for Corns; Corn Solvents (Liquid).\n—A saturated solution of salt of tartar or\npearlash. It is commonly obtained by expos-\ning the article, contained in a jar or wide-\nmouthed bottle, in a damp place, until it forms\nan oil-like liquid.\n5. Caustic potassa, 1 drm. alcohol, 1 fl. oz.\nMix, in a stoppered phial, and agitate until\nsolution is complete. The corns are either\nmoistened with the above, or a small piece of\nlint, or rag, of the size of the corn, is moistened\nwith them and then bound on, care being taken,\nparticularly with the last one, that the liquid\ndoes not touch the surrounding parts.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0138.jp2"},"139":{"fulltext":"Corns.\n127\nCosmetics*.\nCaustics for Corns. 6. Liquid terchloride of\nantimony, 2 drm. tincture of iodine, 2 drm.;\nprotiodide of iron, 7 grn. Mix, and preserve in\na well stoppered phial. Apply with cai*e. Two\nto four applications are said to effect a cure.\nCanquoiix s.—l. a. Chloride of zinc (powdered),\n1 drm.; flour (well dried), 3 drm. Mix, and keep\nit in a stoppered bottle. For use, a little is\nmade into a dough with a drop or two of warm\nwater, which is then foraied into a thin cake of\nthe proper size and the thickness of a letter\nwafer and bound on the corn, where it is kept\nfor three to six hours. After its removal, a\npoultice or a dressing of simple cerate should\nbe applied. Its employment requires caution,\nas if left on too long it is apt to produce pain-\nful eschars, b. As the last, but substituting\nrecently baked plaster of Paris for the flour.\nA very little, made into a paste with water, is\nspread over the corn, and, as soon as it has hard-\nened, bound on with a piece of rag.\nLotions for Corns.— 8. Sal ammoniac crushed\nsmall, 34 oz.; proof spirit, 1 fl. oz. essence of\nmusk, 2 or 3 drops. Mix. The corns are to be\nmoistened with it night and morning.\nPlasters for Corns Corn Plasters. 9. The ad-\nvertised corn plasters commonly consist of resin\nplaster, galbanum plaster, or pitch plaster,\nwith or without the addition or verdigris or\nsal ammoniac, or both of them, spread on linen,\nleather, or paper; the spread plaster being\nafterward cut into pieces of appropriate size,\nand put up in small flat boxes. The follow-\ning are a few examples Resin plaster, 5 parts;\nmelt it by a gentle heat, stir in of sal ammoniac\n(in very fine powder), 1 part; and at once spread\nit on linen or white sheepskin.\n10. Galbanum plaster, 1 oz.; verdigris (in fine\npowder), 1 drm as the last.\n11. Resin plaster, 2 oz. black pitch, 1 oz.\nverdigris, 1 drm.; sal ammoniac, 1 drm.\n12. Argentine Corn Plaster.— Resin plaster, 7\nparts fused nitrate of silver (in fine powder), 1\npart, as before. Intended as a substitute for\nthe direct application of lunar caustic, and to\nbe applied to the corn only.\n13. Anodyne Corn Plaster.— Galbanum plaster\nor resin plaster, or the product of either Nos.\n(5 or 7, to each oz. of which 1 drm. of opium,\nin fine powder, has been added. Recommended\ntor painful corns and bunions.\n14. Beamish s Corn Plaster.— Said to consist\nof about equal parts of resin plaster and gal-\nbanum plaster, melted together by a gentle\nheat.\n15. De Gros Corn Plaster. Resin plaster (re-\ncent), 5 drm.; melt it by a gentle heat, stir in\nof sal ammoniac (in fine powder), 1 drm.; and\nat once spread it on linen or soft leather. The\nnext day, lightly brush over the surface with\nstrong tincture of benzoin.\n16. Dupret s Corn Plaster.— Resin plaster (re-\ncent), 2 oz.; beeswax (genuine), Y oz.; olive\noil, 3^ oz.; melt, stir in of Croton oil, 34 oz., and\nspread it before it cools.\n17. French Corn Plaster; Verdigris Plaster.—\nBeeswax, 4 parts; Burgundy pitch, 2 parts;\nmelt, add of Venice turpentine, 1 part; verdi-\ngris (in fine powder), 1 part; and stir the mass\nuntil nearly cold. This is the old form of ver-\ndigris plaster (emplastrum oeruginis) of the\nParis Codex. For use, it is spread on leather.\n18. German Corn Plaster.— Galbanum plaster,\n2oz.; pitch, 1 oz.; lead plaster, Yz oz.; verdigris\n(in fine powder), 34 oz.; sal ammoniac (in fine\npowder), 14 oz.; and proceed as before.\n19. Kennedy s Corn Plaster.— Beeswax, 3\noz.; melt, add of Venice turpentine, 1 oz.: ver-\ndigris (in fine powder), 3 drm.; and spread it\non cloth. After a few hours the spread plas-\nter is cut into pieces, and polished. Of these\npieces, 1 dozen is put into each box.\n20. Le Foret s Corn Plaster. Galbanum\nplaster, 2 oz.; melt by a gentle heat; add of\ncamphor (powdered), 2 oz.; sal ammoniac (in\nhue powder), Y2 oz.; saffron (in fine powder), Yz\noz.; mix thoroughly, and, when nearly cold,\nstir in of liquor of ammonia, 2 fluid oz.; and at\nonce put it into bottles. It is applied, spread\non leather, to the corn only, as it will blister\nthe thin skin surrounding its base. This is the\noriginal formula. It is an improvement to use\nanother 1 or \\Yt, oz. of galbanum plaster, or to\nadd to it 1 oz. of olive oil; and also to omit one\nhalf of the camphor.\n21. Mineral Corn Plaster.— Resin cerate (dry),\n7 drm.; chloride of zinc (in fine powder), 1\ndrm.; mix, spread, and preserve the spread\nplasters from the air and damp. To be applied\nto the corn only.\n22. Saxon Corn Plaster. Galbanum plaster,\n1 oz.; pitch, Yz oz.; lead plaster, 34 oz.; melt, by\na gentle heat; stir in of verdigris (in fine pow-\nder), 1 drm.; sal ammoniac (in fine powder), 1\ndrm.; and at once spread the mass on linen or\nsoft leather, or form it into a roll ready for\nfuture use. This is the formula of the Saxon\nPh.\nCorrosive Sublimate. Murcuric chlo-\nride. It is a deadly poison and should be used\nwith caution. It forms an excellent extermin-\nator of vermin.\nCosmetique (Simple).— White soft soap, Yz\nlb.; olive oil, 3 oz.; melt them together, add of\nfine sand, a small teacupful; and mould or form\nthe mixture into cakes or balls. Shelly sea sand,\nsifted from the shells, washed, and dried, is the\nbest for this purpose. Used to soften and\nblanch the hands, and to remove roughness\nand coarseness occasioned by exposure to the\nweather, or by gardening or other dirty work.\nCosmetics. The following subjects and re-\nceipts are more or less directly connected with\nCosmetics, and they will be readily found by\nreference to them in the general alphabet. Ab-\nrasion, Bandoline (See Hair), Balsams, Bay Bum,\nBoils, Burns and Scalds, Bruises, Baths, Breath\nSmokers\\ Blisters, Bites and Stings, Cold Sores,\nCourt Plaster, Collodion,Curling Fluid (SeeHair),\nChilblains, Chaps, Cosmetique, Creams Cold, Al-\nmond, Cologne (See Waters), Corns, Dandruff\n(See Hair), Depilatories (See Hair), Escharotics,\nExtracts, Essences, Eyes, Eyelashes, Hair and\nHair Dye, Hands, Moles, Neavus? Nails, Oils\nHair (See Hair), Potvders, Pomades, Pastes,\nPastils Fumigating, Poultices, Perspiration^\nRouges, Smelling Salts (See Salts), Small Pox\nPitting, Scalp, Tenderness of; Sachet Powders\n(See Powders), Skin, Sweating (See Perspiration),\nTeeth and Tooth Powders, Tattoo Marks, Warts,\nWrinkles.\nAlmond Balls, Almond Cakes. Boules d Am-\nande.— 1. These are used to soften the skin, and,\nin winter, to prevent chaps and chilblains 1.\nspermaceti, 2 oz.; white wax, pure, 4 oz.; oil of\nalmonds, pale, Yz Pt- Melt them together in a\nglazed earthenware pipkin, or an enameled\niron capsule, by the heat of a water bath, and\nwhen the mixture has cooled a little, add essen-\ntial oil of almonds, 1 drm.; expressed oil of\nmace, IY2 drm. Stir the mixture assiduously\nuntil it begins to cool, then pour it into slightly\nwarmed moulds, which may be ounce gallipots\nor egg cups, Avith smooth bottoms. It will\nthen assume the form of beautiful hemispheri-\ncal cakes. Very fine.\n2. Hard clarified suet, 14 oz.; white wax, 2\noz.; melt; and add essential oil -of almonds, 1\ndrm.; oil of cloves, or of pimento, Yz drm., and\notherwise proceed as bef ore. Inferior to the\nlast, but cheaper. In using these balls, a little\nis well rubbed into the skin, previously washed\nclean and wiped dry, preferably at bedtime.\nAlmond Meal.— Ground almonds, 1 lb.; wheat\nflour, 1 lb.; orris root powder, 34 lb.; otto of\nlemon, Yz oz.; otto of almonds, 34 drm.\nAlmond Paste, Bitter Paste.— 1. Bitter al-\nmonds and sweet almonds, equal parts; rose\nwater, q. s. and proceed as before. No scent\nneed be added. Both the preceding are occa-\nsionally diversified by the addition of either\npowdered spermaceti, in weight equal to about\n3 6 part of that of the almonds, or of Yz this","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0139.jp2"},"140":{"fulltext":"Cosmetics.\n138\nCosmetics.\nweight of white soap. Sometimes the white of\nan egg is added.\n2. Almond Paste, Oriental.— Peeled bitter al-\nmonds, 12 oz.; rice flour, 7oz.; bean flour, 3\noz.; fine orris powder, 1 oz.; pulverized car-\nbonate potassa, 4 drm.; alcoholic essence jas-\nmine*, 3 oz.; essential oil rhodium, 2 drops;\nessential oil neroli, I drop. Powder the\nalmonds, and to prevent the separation\nof the oil add a little water during the tri-\nturation. The almonds being reduced to a hom-\nogeneous mass, mix in the rice and bean flours\nand powdered orris. Rub up well until the\nmixture is uniform. Dissolve the carbonate of\npotassa in a little water, add to the mass a\nlittle at a time, then add the jasmine and the\nessential oils, previously joined and well shaken\ntogether. If there is not enough liquid to\nmake the paste of proper consistence add q. s.\nof rose water.\nAmandine. A preparation used to whiten\nand soften the skin, and also to prevent its\nchapping. There are three kinds, and each of\nthese is sometimes diversified by the addition\nof coloring matter. 1. Transparent.— Take of\nfinest pale honey, 4 oz.; white soft soap, 2 oz.;\nmix them thoroughly in a marble or Wedgwood\nware mortar, adding, if necessary, liquor of\npotassa, 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls, so as to produce\na perfectly homogeneous paste or cream. To\nthis add and rub in, by degrees, and very grad-\nually oil of almonds, 3J^ lb., previously mixed\nand scented with essential oil of almonds, 3\ndrm.; essence oil of bergamot, 3 drm.; oil of\ncloves, 13^ drm.; balsam of Peru, 1^ drm.; and\ncontinue the trituration until the whole as-\nsumes the appearance of a rich transparent\njelly. Lastly, put the product into pots, or\ndumpy, wide-mouthed bottles.\n2. Opaque.— White soft soap, 3 oz.; gum muci-\nlage, thick, clear, 4 oz.; pale honey, finest, 6 oz.;\nproceed as before add the yelks of 5 large\neggs, previously beaten and strained through\ngauze; and again thoroughly mix. Next add,\nvery gradually, oil of almonds, 234 lb., scented\nwith half of the preceding oils, etc., or at will.\nWhen the whole is perfectly blended, further\nadd pistaschio milk (thick, rich), 34 Pt-, and tri-\nturate until the union is complete.\n3. Glycerinated.— As either of the preceding,\nbut adding, with the soap, to 1 oz. of glycer-\nine for every pound of oil intended to be sub-\nsequently added. In use, a portion of aman-\ndine, about half the size of a small filbert, is\nrubbed with a few drops of warm water, and\nthe resulting rich white lather applied to the\nhands, arms, face and neck. In a short time,\nand while the water on it is still milky, the\nskin is gently wiped with a soft napkin.\n4. Almond oil, 3^j lb.; simple sirup. 2 oz.\n(made by dissolving 1% lb. sugar in 1 pt. water,\nboil and strain); soft soap (use the very best),\nVyfi oz.; otto of almonds and bergamot, \\i oz.\neach otto of cloves, 34 oz. Mix the soap and\nsirup, and mix in the oil gradually. Put the\nperfumes into the almond oil. Great care\nshould be taken in mixing in the oil. For use,\nmake a lather with hot water.\nEmulsions.— Compounds used as substitutes\nfor soap. They should be kept as cool as pos-\nsible, and free from a damp atmosphere.\nEmulsion of Almonds; Milk of Almonds;\nAlmond Milk. 1. Sweet almonds, blanched,\n1 oz.; beat them to a smooth paste, avoiding\ncausing them to oil, 1 add gradually, triturat-\ning all the time, of distilled water, or clean\nsoft water, y% pt., and strain the liquid through\ngauze.\n2. Blanched almonds, 5 drm.; white iump\nsugar, 2 drm.; gum arabic, in powder, 1 drm.;\nwater, 8 n. oz.; proceed as before.\n3. To No. 1 add glycerine, I oz.\nThe preceding are used to soften and whiten\nthe skin, to remove and prevent roughness,\nsunburn, chaps, etc. The first formula, No. 1,\nproduces the common milk of almonds of the\nperfumers; the last, No. 3, is the most power-\nful as a cosmetic. They both keep well, and\nare the ones to be preferred when the emulsion\nis intended as a vehicle for any saline ingredi-\nent. The second and third possess advantages\nwhen oils or balsams are to be added, and are\nthose employed in medicine. The addition of\n2 to 6 bitter almonds, or of 1 to 2 oz. of rose\nwater or orange flour water, may be made,\nat will, to impart odor, or, when intended for\nexternal use, to diversify the flavor, a cor-\nresponding quantity of simple water being\nomitted.\n4. Honey and Almond Paste.— Bitter almonds\nblanched and ground, lb.; honey, 1 lb.; 8\nyelks of eggs; almond oil, 1 lb.; otto of berga-\nmot, 34 oz.; otto of cloves, 34 oz. Rub the eggs\nand honey together first, then gradually add\nthe oil, and finally the ground almonds, and\nthe perfume.\n5. Emulsion au Jasmin.— Saponaceous cream,\n1 oz.; simple sirup, 1J^ oz.; almond oil, 1 lb.;\nbest jasmine oil, 3^ lb.\n6. Emulsion a la Violette. Saponaceous\ncream, 1 oz.; sirup of violets, 13i oz.; best\nviolet oil, 13^ lb.\nEyebroiv Pencil.— Suet, lb.; curd soap, 34 lb.;\nivory black, q. s. Put in a metal case or roll\ninto spills.\nFreckles, Pomade for.—l. Citrine ointment,\n1 drm.; oil of almonds, 1 drm.; spermaceti\nointment, oz.; otto of roses, 3 drops; mix\nwell, in a Wedgwood ware mortar, using a\nwooden or bone knife.\n2. Take of sulphate of zinc, levigated, 20\ngrn.; elder flower ointment, 1 oz.; mix well in\nmortar.\nThis ointment is recommended for either\nsummer freckles, or cold freckles, a little being\napplied night and morning, preceded by soap\nand water.\nFreckles, Lotions for.—l. Bichloride of mer-\ncury, 6 grn.; hydrochloric acid (pure, sp. gr.\nP16) 1 fl. drm.; water, distilled, 34 Pt.; mix, and\nadd of rectified spirit, 2 11. oz.; eau de rose, 2\nfl. oz.; glycerine, 1 oz.\n2. Lemon (citric) acid, 3 drm.; hot water, 12\noz.; dissolve, add of red rose leaves, 1 oz.;\ninfuse for an hour, strain with expression, and\nthe next day decant the clear portion.\n3. Red rose leaves, 34 oz.; lemon juice, fresh,\n34 pt.; brandy or rum, 34 pt.; digest, in the\ncold, for 2 or 3 hours, and otherwise proceed\nas before.\n4. Kittoe s.— Sal ammoniac, powdered, 1 drm.\ntroy; distilled water, lpt.; eau de cologne, or\nlavender water, 2 fl. drm.; mix. About 3^ fl.\ndrm. of hydrochloric acid increases its efficacy.\n5. White soft soap, 3 oz.; gum mucilage thick\nand clear, 4 oz.; finest pale honey, 6 oz. Mix\nthoroughly in a mortar, add the yelks of 5\neggs previously beaten and strained through\ngauze, add slowly oil of almonds, scented to\ntaste, 234 lb. When perfectly mixed add pis-\ntachio milk, made from fresh peeled nuts and\nrose water, 34 pt., and rub up until completely\nmixed. This is corrosive, and acts by removing\nthe outer cuticle.\n6. A Good Remedy for Removing Freckles.—\nSulphocarbolate of zinc, 1 oz.; glycerine, 12\noz.; rose water, 12 oz.; alcohol, 3 oz.; spirits of\nneroli, 3^ drm. Mix them. To be applied twice\na day, leaving them on from half an hour to\none hour.\nThe following is recommended by the Drug-\ngists Circular as a preparation for this purpose\nwhich does not contain mercury: ammonium\nchloride, 1 drm.; distilled* water, 7 oz.; cologne\nwater, 2 drm.\nFreckles, a Remedy for.—l. The following is\nquoted by Nexv Remedies from a German medi-\ncal journal Sulphocarbolate of zinc, 2 parts;\nglycerine, 25 parts; rose water, 25 parts; spirits,\n5 parts. Dissolve and mix.\nThe freckled skin is to be anointed with\nthis twice daily, the ointment being allowed to\nstay on from one half to one hour, and then\nwashed off with cold water. Anaemic persons","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0140.jp2"},"141":{"fulltext":"Cosinetics.\n129\nCosmetics.\nshould also take a mild ferruginous tonic. In\nthe sunlight a dark veil should be worn.\n2. Scrape horse-radish into a cup of cold sour\nmilk, let stand twelve hours, strain, and apply\ntwo or three times a day.\nHydrokinone Wash for the Skin.—\nHydrokinone gr. xlviii.\nAcid phosphoric glac gr. xxx.\nGlycerine dr. ii.\nAqua dest oz. vi.\nMisce.\nThese two lotions are stated to give excellent\nresults, especially the latter. They are to be\napplied to the skin of the face, etc., in the\nusual way atleast twice in the course^of twenty-\nfour hours, after it has been washed and dried\ncarefully. If the skin be of the nature known\nas greasy, a preliminary wash with tepid\nwater containing a few drops sal volatile or liq.\nammon. fort, is advisable.\nAlbadermine. Under this empirical title, a\nprocess of removing tan and the milder\nvariety of freckles, a foreign surgeon has\ndevised the following\nSolution A.\nPotass, iodid drm. ii.\nIodine pur gr. vi.\nGlycerine dr. hi.\nInfus. rosae oz. iv.\nDissolve the iodide of potassium in a small\nquantity of the infusion and a drm. of the\nglycerine; with this fluid moisten the iodine in\na glass mortar and rub it down, gradually\nadding more liquid until complete solution has\nbeen obtained; then stir in the remainder of\nthe ingredients, and bottle the mixture.\nSolution B.\nSodse hyposulph. thiosulphate oz. iss.\nAqua rosae exot pt. i.\nDissolve and filter.\nWith a small camel s hair pencil or piece of\nfine sponge apply a little of A Albadermine A\nto the tanned or freckled surface, until a\nslight but tolerably uniform brownish yellow\nskin has been produced. At the expiration of\nfifteen or twenty minutes moisten a piece of\ncambric, lint, or soft rag with B, and lay it\nupon the affected part, removing, squeezing\naway the liquid, soaking it afresh, and again\napplying until the iodine stain has disappeared.\nKepeat the entire process thrice daily, but\ndiminish the frequency of the application if\ntenderness be produced. In the course of three\nto four days to as many weeks the freckles\nwill either have disappeared entirely or their\nintensity will be greatly diminished. Sum-\nmer freckles yield very speedily to this treat-\nment.\nAnti-Freckle Lotion.—\nHydrarg. bichlor. gr. xii.\nAcid hydrochlor. pure drm. hi\nFruct. amygd. amar oz. iss.\nGlycerini, Price s oz. i.\nTinct. benzoin drmii.\nAqua flor. aurant q. s.\nDissolve the corrosive sublimate in 3 oz. of the\norange flower water, add the hydrochloric acid,\nand set aside. Blanch the bitter almonds, and\nbruise them in a Wedgwood mortar, adding\nthereto the glycerine and using the pestle\nvigorously; a smooth paste is thus obtained.\nThen add gradually about 9 oz. of the orange\nflower water, stirring constantly, continuing\nthis operation until a fine, creamy emulsion is\nthe result. Subject this to violent agitation—\npreferably with the aid of a mechanical egg\nwhisk— and allow the tincture of benzoin to fall\ninto it the while drop by drop. Then add the\nmercurial solution, filter, and make up the\nwhole to the measure of 1 imperial pt. with\nmore orange flower water.\nThis preparation is recommended to us by an\neminent dermatologist as being invariably\nefficacious in the treatment of ephelis, and\nalways greatly ameliorating lentigo, even if it\ndoes not entirely decolorize the patches in the\nlatter case. A general whitening of the skin is\nproduced by this lotion without any irritation.\nIt is as well, however, not to apply it to any\nabraded surfaces. It has been found far su-\nperior in practice to a preparation— which it\nsomewhat resembles— sold at a high price in\nParis under the name of Lait Antiphelique.\nBismuth Ointment for Freckles.—\nBismuthi subnit drm. iii.\nUng. simp oz. ii.\nMat ung.\nApply to face, etc., at night, and remove in\nthe morning with a little cold cream previous\nto washing. This is from a private American\nsource.\nCopper Oleatefor Freckles, etc.— This is a much\nmore effective and reliable ointment for the\npurpose than the preceding, which is really\nonly suited for the milder form of sunburn,\nwhile the oleate of copper will remove the\nmore persistent and obstinate lentigo. It is\nthus prepared\nCupri oleas, ver oz. i.\nPetrogell. alb. Burgoyne s. oz. hi.\nIncorporate thoroughly without heat.\nThis is to be applied in the same manner as\nthe preceding, washing the surface of the skin,\nhowever (after the cold cream), about every\nthird morning, with a little weak ammonia\nwater in order to prevent any inadvertent\naccumulation of copper.\nCosmetic Gloves.— Mock kid or lamb skin\ngloves rubbed over, on the inside, with a com-\nposition of the following kind: Spermaceti\ncerate (hardest, melted), 5 oz.; balsam of Peru,\n1 drm.; stir for five minutes, pour off the clear\nportion, add of oil of nutmeg, }4 drm.; oil of\ncassia, 12 to 15 drops; essense of ambergris, 12 to\n15 drops; and stir the whole until cold. Worn\nby ladies in bed, at night, to soften and blanch\nthe hands, and to prevent and cure chaps and\nchilblains.\nGlycerine for Toilet Use, Solidified.— Trans-\nparent soap, l 1 oz.; water, 6 oz.; inodorous\nglycerine, 36 oz. Dissolve the soap in the water\nby heat, add an equal weight of glycerine.\nWhen dissolved, add the rest of the glycerine,\nwater q. s. to make up the weight. When\nnearly cold add any perfume desired. Put in\nglass jars. It is of a pale amber color, and is\ntransparent.\nLotions. These preparations, popularly\ncalled washes, are local external applications\nconsisting of water, or some simple aqueous\nvehicle, holding in solution medicinal or\ncosmetic substances. Medicinal lotions are\nusually applied by wetting a piece of linen\nwith them, and keeping it on the part affected;\ncosmetic lotions, by simply moistening the skin\nwith them.\nAcetic Lotion.— Take of good strong vinegar,\n1 part; water, 2 or 3 parts; mix. In bruises,\ncontusions, sprains, etc., and as a general re-\nfrigerant wash or lotion to sound parts; also to\nremove freckles.\nLotion of Acetate of Lead.— Take of sugar of\nlead, 34 oz.; distilled or soft water, 1 pint; dis-\nsolve. Sometimes a little vinegar is added, a\nlike quantity of water being omitted. Used in\nexcoriations, burns, sprains, contusions, etc.;\nalso as an occasional cosmetic wash by persons\ntroubled with eruptions.\nLotion of Acetic Acid for Baldness.— The\nfollowing lotion is superior for a shampoo-\ning liquid, for removing dandruff, and as a.\nuseful and pleasant application for bald-\nness. It is, of course, moderately stimu-\nlating, and in those cases in which the hair\nfollicles are not destroyed, but have become\nmerely inactive, it is likely to prove efficacious.\nTake of acetic acid, 1 drm.; Cologne water, 1\noz.; water, to make in all 6 oz.\nAlum Lotion.— Take of alum (crushed), 1J4\ndrm.; distilled or soft water, 1 pt.; dissolve. A\nlittle rose water mav be introduced to scent it.\nArsenical Cosmetic Lotion.— 1. Take of arseni-\nous acid (sohd or crystallized), 3 to 5 grn.; crush\nit to a fine powder, place it in a jug or basin.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0141.jp2"},"142":{"fulltext":"Cosmetics.\n130\nCosmetics.\npour on it of distilled or soft water (boiling),\npt.; and promote solution by constantly stir-\nring the liquid for some time with a small glass\nrod or a clean piece of wood. After repose,\nand when cold, pour off the clear solution into\na clean bottle, carefully observing not to dis-\nturb the sediment or any undissolved portion,\nwhich must be entirely rejected. To the clear\nliquid add, of eau de rose (foreign),|loz.; glycer-\nine (Price s), 1 oz.; and after mixture, by agita-\ntion, further add enough cold distilled water or\npure soft water to make the whole measure\nexactly one pint. It should then be poured into\n5 oz. or 6 oz. bottles, only one of which, for\nsafety, should be kept out for use.\n2. As the last, but adding, with the arsenious\nacid, an equal weight of carbonate of potas-\nsium. This addition facilitates the solution of\nthe former, but the product is said to be slight-\nly less effective as a cosmetic wash.\n3. Solution of arsenite of potassa, 1 fl. oz.; eau\nde rose, 1 fl. oz.; glycerine (Price s). J^ oz.; dis-\ntilled or pure soft water (cold), 1 pt.; mix. A\nconvenient formula, but less esteemed than\nNo.l.\nLotion of Bichloride of Mercury. Corrosive\nsublimate (in coarse powder), 10 grn.; distilled\nwater, 1 pt.; agitate them together until solu-\ntion is complete. The addition of 5 or 6 grn. of\npure sal ammoniac or 5 or 6 drops (not more)\nof hydrochloric acid, increases the solvent\naction of the water, and renders the prepara-\ntion less liable to suffer change, but it is not\notherwise advantageous. When absolutely pure\ndistilled water is not used, this addition of acid\nshould be made to prevent decomposition.\nSome persons dissolve the sublimate in 2 or 3\nfluid drm. of rectified spirit before adding the\nwater, to f acilitate the process but this also,\nthough convenient, is unnecessary. This is a\ndeadly poison.\nLotion of Borax.— 1. Borax (powdered) 2)4\ndrm.; distilled water, y% pt. Mix. An effective\nwash for sore gums, sore nipples, excoriations,\netc., applied twice or thrice daily, or oftener.\n2. Borax (powdered), 3 drm.; glycerine, oz.\nrose water or elder flower water, 12 oz. Mix.\nCherry Laurel Lotion, Cherry Laurel Shaving\nWash.— Cherry laurel water (genuine, distilled),\n2 fluid oz.; rectified spirit, 1 fluid oz.; glycerine,\ny% oz.; distilled water, 7)4 flnid oz. Mix. Used\nto ally irritation of the skin, particularly after\nshaving, the part being moistened with it by\nmeans of the tips of the fingers also used as a\nwash for freckles and acne, and to remove ex-\ncessive moistness or greasiness of the hair.\nLotion of Chlorate of Potassium.— Take of\nchlorate of potassium (powdered) )4 oz.; dis-\ntilled water, )4 pt.; rose water, 4 oz.; glycerine,\n1 oz. Dissolve.\nFace Lotion. As a face lotion, oatmeal made\nin a paste with glycerine 2 parts, water 1 part,\nand applied to the face at night, with a mask\nworn over, will give in a short time, if faith-\nfully pursued, a youthful appearance to the\nskin.\nFreckles, Lotion to Remove.— Alum and lemon\njuice, of each 1 oz.; rose water, 1 pt. Bathe the\nface three or four times daily.\nGlycerine Lotion.— 1. Glycerine (pure), 1 oz.;\ndistilled or pure soft water, 19 oz. Mix. A good\nstrength for daily use as a cosmetic wash, or as\na vehicle for other ingredients, for which pur-\npose it is greatly preferable to milk of almonds;\nalso as a lotion to ally itching and irritation of\nthe skin, prevent chaps, excoriations, the effects\nof weather, climate, etc. It is likewise applied\nto the hair instead of oil.\n2. Glycerine, loz.; distilled water, 9 oz. Mix.\nA proper strength when more marked effects\nare desired as in chapped hands, lips, nipples,\nobstinate excoriations, abrasions, chafings, sun\nburns, persistent roughness or hardness of the\nskin, etc.\nLotion, Emollient Glycerine.— Take of muci-\nlage of quince seeds, 6 fl. oz.; glycerine, 1 fl. oz.;\norange flower water, 1 fl. oz. Make a lotion.\nGowland s Lotion.— Jordan almonds\n(blanched), 1 oz.; bitter almonds (do.; say 7 to9),\n2to3drms.; distilled water, y 2 pt.; form them\ninto an emulsion. To the strained emulsion,\nwith agitation, gradually add of bichloride of\nmercury (in coarse powder), 15 grn.; previously\ndissolved in distilled water, )4 pt. after which\nfurther add enough distilled water (2 or 3 tea-\nspoonfuls) to make the whole measure exactly 1\npt.\nHorse Radish Lotion (for the skin).— Horse\nradish root, 1)4 oz.; boiling water, 1)4 Pt. borax,\n3 drm. Used for freckles, tan, etc.\nLotion of Iodide of Potassium.— Iodide of\npotassium, 1 to 2 drm.; distilled water, 1 pt.;\ndissolve.\nGlycerine Lotion for Irritation of the Skin.-\nMix 1)4, oz. glycerine with l^pt. water. Allays\nitching, removes dryness, etc. For chapped\nhands or lips, add 3 or 4J^ drm. borax.\nLemon Juice Solution.— Fresh lemon juice,\n2 oz.; glycerine, 1 oz.; rose water or i*ain water,\nwith 3 or 4: drops otto of roses added, 1 pt.\nAnoint the hands and face three or four times\ndaily, and allow to remain on several minutes\nbefore wiping. For clearing the complexion,\nand making the skin white and soft.\nMosquito Lotion. Aqua ammonia, 2 oz.;\nglycerine, 1 oz.; rose water, 8 oz.\nSulphureted Lotion.— 1. Sulphuret of potas-\nsium, 1 drm.; distilled water, 1 pt.; dissolve.\nUsed to render the skin soft, white, and smooth,\nparticularly when there is a tendency to slight\neruptions of a pustular or vesicular character.\n)4 to 1 oz. glycerine improves it for present use.\n2. Sulphide of potassium, 1)4 drm. water,\nJ^pt.; dissolve. A cleanly and effective remedy\nfor itch, used twice or thrice daily. It does\nnot soil the linen and leaves very little smell.\n3. (Cazenave.) Sulphuret of potassium, 1\ndrm.; white soft soap, 2 drm.; water, 8 oz.; dis-\nsolve. Used as the last also to destroy pedi-\nculi.\nSun Burn Lotion.— 1. 2 drm. tincture of ben-\nzoin and 2 oz. rose water. Mix and shake well.\nThis is an excellent recipe for sun burns.\n2. Acid citric 1 drm.\nFerri sulphas pur 18 grn.\nCamphora. q. s.\nAq. flor. sambu 3 oz.\nThe sulphate of iron must be in clear green\ncrystals, unless the granulated form, which is\npreferable, be available, and in either case the\nsalt should be fresh and free from oxidized\nportions, or rustiness it should be dissolved\nin half the elder flower water (all of which is\nbetter, if not quite recently distilled, for being\nquickly raised to the boiling point and cooled\nout of contact of air before use), the citric acid\nbeing also in solution in the other half, and the\ntwo fluids mixed, filtered if necessary, and bot-\ntled immediately, a lump of camphor about the\nsize of a small peppercorn to be added to the\ncontents of each bottle.\nMilk, of Roses.— English Milk of Roses.— 1. Al-\nmonds (blanched), 1)4 oz. oil of almonds, 1)4\noz. white soft soap, ldrm. rose water, pt.\nmake an emulsion; to the strained emulsion add\na mixture of essence or spirit of roses, )4 fl-\ndrm.: rectified spirit, 2)4 A. oz.; and, subse-\nquently, of rose water, q. s. to make the whole\nmeasure 1 pt. More spirit is often ordered and\nused but much of it is apt to cause the sepa-\nration of the ingredients, In many samples,\nand in the inferior ones generally, it is omitted\naltogether. Some makers add a few drops of\noil of bergamot, with 2 or 3 drops each of oil of\nlavender and otto of roses, dissolved in the\nspirit.\n2. Oil of almonds, 1 oz. white soft soap, 1 oz.;\nsalt of tartar, y% drm. boiling water, J4 P*-\ntriturate and subsequently agitate until per-\nfectly united. When cold, further add, of rec-\ntified spirit, 2 fl. oz. spirit of roses, a few\ndrops; rose water, q. s. to make the whole\nmeasure a pint. The above are used as cosme-","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0142.jp2"},"143":{"fulltext":"Cosmetics.\n131\nCourt Plaster.\ntic washes in a similar way to Gowland s lo-\ntion also to remove scurf, freckles, and acne\nand other pimples, and eruptions, in slight\ncases.\nFrench Milk of Roses.— 1 tincture of benzoin\n(simple), Y% fl. oz. tincture of styrax, J4 fl. oz.\nesprit de rose, 1 to 2 fl. drm. rectified spirit,\n2^6 fl. oz. mix, and add gradually, with agita-\ntion, of rose water. 16^ fl. oz.\nGerman Milk of Buses.— Dilute solution of\ndiacetate of lead, fl. oz. lavender water, 2 fl.\ndrm. rectified spirit, 2Y% fl. oz. rose water,\npt. mix, with agitation. The spirit is often\nimproperly omitted, or less is used. It is cool-\ning and astringent, and is employed as a wash,\nlike the preceding as also in moist eruptions,\nexcoriations, etc.; but it is more active, and\nless fitted for very frequent use.\nMilk of Almonds.— Bitter almonds, blanched,\n10 oz. distilled (or rose) water, 1 qt. alcohol\n(60 over proof), %pt. otto of almonds, 34 drm.;\notto of bergamot, 2 drm. wax, spermaceti,\nalmond oil, curd soap, each oz.\nMilk of Dandelion.— Sweet almonds, 4 oz.\nrose water, 1 pt. expressed juice of dandelion\nroot, 1 oz. esprit de tuberose, 8 oz. j green oil,\nwax, curd soap, each J£ oz. Let the juice of the\ndandelion be perfectly fresh pressed.\nMilk of Elder.— Sweet almonds, 4 oz. elder\nflower water, 1 pt. alcohol (60 over proof) 8 oz.;\noil of elder flowers prepared by maceration, y^\noz. wax, sperm, soap, each y% oz.\nOlivine.— Gum acacia, in powder, 2 oz. honey,\n6 oz. 5 yelks of eggs white soft soap, 3 oz.\nolive oil, 2 lb. green oil, 1 oz. otto of berga-\nmot, 1 oz. otto of lemon, 1 oz. otto of cloves,\noz. otto of thyme and otto of cassie, each y\ndrm. Rub the gum and honey together until\nincorporated, then add the soap and egg and\nmix the green oil and perfumes with the olive\noil.\nPastes.— In cosmetics, perfumery, and phar-\nmacy the term paste is not confined to semi-\nsolid and more or less tenacious, moist prepara-\ntions, but is very loosely applied to a variety of\narticles differing 1 widely from each other, in-\ncluding even certain powders. It is, therefore,\nimpossible to class them correctly together, as\nthe reader will perceive by reference to indivi-\ndual formulae bearing this general name in the\nsubsequent portion of this work.\nSunburn.— Often in exposed situations, as at\nthe seaside, the skin may become not only sun-\nburned in the common sense of the word, but\nirritable and inflamed. The following used\ntwice daily as a wash will prevent this Milk, 20\noz.; carbonate of soda, 1 oz.; glycerine, 1 oz.;\npowdered borax, J^oz. Or the following Car-\nbonate of soda, 1 oz.; oatmeal water, pt.; milk,\nHpt.\nTan and Sunburn, to Remove. See also\nFi eckles. The following is recommended 6\ndrm. avoirdupois powdered borax; Price s gly-\ncerine, oz.; use water or elder flower water,\n12 oz.; mix. We doubt the efficacy of any\napplication except such as will cause the outer\nlayer of the skin to strip off, such as the extract\nof cashew nuts. Even such a violent application\ndoes little good if the skin is re-exposed to the\nsun, as sunburn and freckles are liable to re-\nturn as badly as ever.\nSunburn.— Take 6 drm. avoirdupois powdered\nborax, pure glycerine, oz., rose water or\nelder flower water, 12 oz.; mix. Its daily use as\na cosmetic wash renders the skin beautifully\nsoft and white, and prevents and removes\nchaps, sunburns, etc.\nSee also Lotions above.\nCosmolin.— Cosmohn and vaselin are vari-\nable mixtures of paraffin with volatile oils. It\nis the residue left from the distillation of pe-\ntroleum purified by nitration over animal char-\ncoal, says Miller.\nCotton, Absorbent. See Absorbent\nCotton.\nCotton, to Dye. See Dyeing.\nCotton, to Gild. See Gilding.\nCottonseed Oil. See Oils.\nCough Uledicines.— A few simple receipts\nfor expectorants, useful for winter coughs.\nThe first is particularly suitable for young\nchildren.\n1. Sirup of squills 1 fluid drm.; gum\nacacia, powdered, y% fluid drm.; ammonium\nchloride, 8 grn.; peppermint water, enough to\nmake 2 fluid oz. Dose for a child, a teaspoon-\nf ul every two hours.\n2. Another formula, for older children and\nadults, consists of sirup of ipecac, 2 parts; sirup\nof squills, 4 parts; paregoric, 1 part. Dose, half\nto one teaspoonful, repeated as often as ne-\ncessary.\n3. The following was a favorite prescription\nof Prof. C. A. Lee, of Peekskill Sirup of ipecac,\n1 oz.; sirup Of tolu, 1 oz.; paregoric, oz.; sirup\nwild cherry, 1 oz.\n4. For hoarseness, Dr. Eichelberger gives the\nfollowing, which he says is very good for\nhoarseness: Tincture chloride of iron, 2 drm.;\nglycerine, 4 drm.; water, 4 drm. Dose, half a\nteaspoonful, occasionally.\n5. (Draughts.) a. Sirup of poppies, 1 dessert-\nspoonful; antimonial wine, 20 drops; mix for a\ndose, to be taken in a little warm tea on going\nto bed. b. Laudanum, 30 drops; vinegar and\nhoney, of each a dessertspoonful; ipecacuanha\nwine, 25 drops; mix for one dose, as last.\n6. (Emulsion.) Milk of almonds, 4 oz.; sirup\nof squills and tolu, of each 1 oz.; mix. Dose, a\ntablespoonf ul every two hours.\n7. (Mixtures.) Tincture of tolu, J4 oz.; par-\negoric elixir and tincture of squills, of each\noz.; sirup of white poppies, 1 oz.; mix. Dose, 1\nteaspoonful in barley water, whenever the\ncough is troublesome.\n8. Milk of ammoniacum, 4oz.; sirup of squills,\n2 oz.; mix. A tablespoonf ul three or four times\ndaily, for the cough of old persons.\n9. (Dr. Munro s.) Paregoric, J^ oz.; sulphuric\nether and tincture of tolu, of each J4 oz.; mix.\nDose, a teaspoonful night and morning, or when\nthe cough is troublesome, in a little warm\nwater.\n10. (Dr. Radeliff s.) Sirup of poppies, sirup of\nsquills, and paregoric, of each oz.; mix. Dose,\nas last.\nCoughing, to Relieve.— In severe par-\noxysms in coughing, either in coughs, colds, or\nconsumptives, one or two tablespoonfuls of\npure glycerine in pure rye whisky or hot rich\ncream will afford almost immediate relief; and\nto the consumptive a panacea is found by daily\nuse of glycerine internally, with the proportion\nof 1 part of powdered willow charcoal and 2\nparts of pure glycerine.\nCourt Plaster.— 1. Gold beater s skin, with-\nout any preparation, forms the very best\ncourt plaster that can be employed. A piece\nof it applied (dry) to the slightly moistened\nskin, and held there for a few seconds, with the\nhand, will adhere firmly for several days, or\nuntil the part be wetted; and, from being\ntransparent and almost colorless, will, when of\nthe finest quality and skillfully applied, be\nscarcely visible.\n2. Isinglass (best, genuine), 1 oz.; water, )4 pt.\nDissolve by heating them together in a cov-\nered vessel; strain the solution, and when only\nlukewarm add to it gradually, but quickly, a\nmixture formed of rectified spirit, 2 fl. oz.;\ntincture of benzoin, 2 fl. oz. Apply this com-\nposition (still warm) by means of a flat camel\nhair brush, or any appropriate spreader, to\nthe surface of silk, or sarcenet, stretched in a\nframe, repeating the application as soon as the\npreceding coating is dry, and again as often as\nnecessary (six to twelve times). Lastly, when\nquite dry and hard, give the prepared surface a\nfinishing coat with a solution of Chio tur-\npentine, 1 oz.; dissolved in tincture of benzoin,\n2 fl. oz. Tincture of balsam of Peru, or of\nstyrax, may be substituted for the tincture of","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0143.jp2"},"144":{"fulltext":"Coverings.\n132\nCrayons.\nbenzoin and a few drops of essence of amber-\ngris, or of musk, may be added to increase the\nfragrance of the compound. Some parties\nsimply employ one or other of the above tinc-\ntures for the finishing; coat and others apply\nit to the unprepared side of the silk, by which\nthe plaster is rendered partially waterproof,\nbut the appearance of its exposed surface in-\njured. Care should be taken that the first two\nor three applications of the gelatine composi-\ntion do not sink into the silk, so as to appear\non the right side, which will not be the case if\nit be only sufficiently warm to remain liquid,\nand be applied very thinly and rapidly, and\nwith a lig-ht stroke of the brush or spreader.\n3. Deschamp s.— Apply to the stretched silk a\nvery thin coating of smooth, strained flour\npaste and over this, when dry, two or three\ncoats of warm size, made with colorless gela-\ntine and water, to which some odorous tinc-\nture or essence has been added. Said to be su-\nperior to the ordinary court plaster, and much\nof the court plaster of commerce is so prepared.\n4. Liston s.— Isinglass, 1 oz.; water, 2J^ oz.\nKeep them in a covered vessel, in a hot place,\nuntil the isinglass has swollen and absorbed all\nthe water, and become quite soft then beat it\nto a uniform semifluid mass, strain it by\nsqueezing it through muslin, and add of proof\nspirit, 3 fl. oz. Next expose the mixture,\nwith frequent stirring, in a covered bottle or\nother vessel, until the union be complete.\nLastly, with a brush, apply four coats of the\nsolution to the surface of oiled silk stretched\nout and nailed on a board. A little of the tinc-\ntures or essences before noticed may be added\nto impart a slight odor to the plaster.\nCoverings for Boilers, See Boiler\nCoverings.\nCracks in Metal. A crack in a piece of\nmetal is prevented from extending further by\nthe well-known means of drilling a hole where\nthe rent ends but when the hole is not bored\non just that spot, the crack is apt to continue\nbeyond the hole. To facilitate the search for\nthe exact point, Revue Inclustrielle recommends\nmoistening the cracked surface with petro-\nleum, then wiping- it and immediately rubbing-\nit with chalk. The oil that has penetrated into\nthe crack exudes, and thus indicates with pre-\ncision where the crack stops.\nCrape, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nCrayons.— Small cylinders or pencils of\ncoloring substances, used for drawing upon\npaper, etc. Prep. Crayons are commonly pre-\npared by mixing the color with some substance\nthat will dilute it to a proper shade, and give\nit the necessary softness and tenacity to ad-\nhere readily to paper, when rubbed against it.\nThe cylindrical form is generally given to them\nby means of a cylinder of 2 or 3 in. diameter,\nhaving one end open, and the other firmly se-\ncured to a perforated plate having holes of the\nsame size as the intended crayons. The crayon\ncomposition, in the state of a stiff paste, is intro-\nduced into the open end, and is driven down\nand through the holes, by means of a small\nplug or piston, that exactly fits the inside of\nthe cylinder. To impart an equable motion,\nwhich is essential to the formation of well\nshaped crayons, a small screw is employed.\nThe pieces that pass through the holes are cut\ninto lengths and dried. All the materials em-\nployed in making crayons are previously re-\nduced to the state of an impalpable powder,\nand those that are gritty are elutriated or\nwashed over. The following are among- the\nbest formulas for making crayons\n1. Spermaceti, 3 oz.; boiling water, 1 pt.; agi-\ntate together till they form a species of emul-\nsion, with which mix up bone ashes 1 lb. (pre-\nviously reduced to an impalpable powder), and\ncoloring matter as much as is required to give\nthe proper tint. When half dry form the mass\ninto crayons.\n2. Pipe clay, and the finest prepared chalk,\nequal parts; or pipe clay alone, q. s.; coloring\na sufficient quantity. Make them into a paste\nwith pale mild ale.\n3. Washed pipe clay and washed chalk equal\nparts, mix them into a paste with sweet ale\nmade hot, and with a chip or two of isinglass\ndissolved in it.\n4. Take common pipe clay in powder, mix it\nup into a paste with very strong soapsuds,\nmade thus: Cut up 1 oz. of white soap into\nsmall shavings, dissolve it over the fire in )4 pt.\nwater, stir into the mixture while hot the pow-\ndered pipe clay as long as you can stir it.\nSpirits of wine added before the powders, to\nrender the soap water transparent, is an im-\nprovement.\n5. Melt 3 oz. of shellac in 2 oz. of spirits of\nwine; this will form a thick liquid; to this add\n6 parts of pipe clay and 1 part of oil of turpen-\ntine; grind all well together. The fighter the\ncolor of the shellac, the better; also if colors\nare to be added they should be ground up with\nthe turpentine, before this is added to the rest.\nCrayons, Drawing.— Pale shellac, 5 parts; wood\nnaphtha, 12 parts; dissolve and with this fluid\nmix up the coloring powder. Dry by stove\nheat.\n1. Black Crayons Use black lead, ivory black,,\nlampblack.\n2. Blue— Indigo, Prussian blue or smalts.\n3. Brown Umber or brown ocher.\n4. Green— Mix king s yellow, or\n5. Yellow ocher with blues.\n6. Purple Use bright blue or carmine.\n7- Bed From carmine or vermilion.\n8. White From pure clay and chalk.\n9. Yellow From Naples or king s yellow.\nLithographic Crayons. White wax, 4 parts?\ngum lac, 2 parts melt over a gentle fire then\nadd dry soap shavings, 2 parts stir until dis-\nsolved, and add white tallow, 2 parts; copal\nvarnish and lampblack, each 1 part continue\nthe heat and stirring until a cooled sample will\nbear cutting to a fine point.\nLithographic Chalk.— Common soap, 1}4 oz.;\ntallow, 2 oz.; virgin wax, 2}£ oz.; shellac, 1 oz.;\nlampblack, 34 oz. Mix as for lithographic ink.\nSenef elder s Composition for Crayons, 1.\nBlack, 2 parts soap, 6 parts wax, 4 parts.\n2. Black, 2 parts soap, 4 parts wax 8 parts..\n3. Black, 2 parts soap, 4 parts wax, 4 parts\nspermaceti, 4 parts.\n4. Black, 2 parts soap, 4 parts wax, 8 parts;,\nspermaceti, 4 parts.\n5. Black, 3 parts soap, 5 parts wax, 8 parts\nshellac, 4 parts.\n6. Black, 3 parts; soap, 5 parts; wax, 8 parts;\ntallow, 2 parts shellac, 4 parts.\n7. Black, 3 parts; soap, 6 parts; wax, 8 parts;\ntallow, 4 parts.\nThese are made in precisely the same manner\nas the ink, and may be made by the same mate-\nrials if they are burned sufficiently hard for use\nin drawing. These various recipes of Senef eld-\ner s will yield a great variety of crayons by burn-\ning them more or less. Crayons may be cast in\na flat cake, and then cut up with a saw or hot\nknife, into square pencils, but they are better\ncast in a grooved box similar to a druggist s\npill machine, and pressure applied while hot.\nCrayons for Writing on Glass. 1. French\nchalk cut into suitable pieces. Marks made\nwith these crayons when obscured or rubbed\nout may be several times revived by simply\nbreathing on the glass.\n2. Spermaceti, 4 parts tallow, 3 parts vvax,\n2 parts, are melted together in a cup, and red\nlead, 6 parts, and carbonate of potassa (in fine\npowder), 1 part, stirred in the mass is kept\nmelted and stirred for about half an hour\nlonger, then poured into glass moulds (tubes)\nof the thickness of a common pencil, and\ncooled as rapidly as possible. The mass may\nbe screwed up and down in the tube and cut to\na point with a knife. A crayon is thus ob-","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0144.jp2"},"145":{"fulltext":"Craze.\n133\nCreams,\ntained which, will readily write on clean, dry\nglass.\nCraze. Terni applied to the cracking of the\nglaze of pottery and porcelain.\nCream, Painters Pale nut oil, 6 oz.;\nmastic, loz.; dissolve; add 34 oz. of lead acetate,\npreviously ground in a small quantity of oil\nthen further add water q. s. gradually until it\nacquires the consistency of cream. It is used\nby painters to cover work temporarily as it can\nhe washed oft\nCreams.— Cream, Almond (Crenie d Aman-\ndes).— Lard, perfectly pure and fresh, 220 parts\nsolution of potassa, containing- 2G% of caustic\npotash, 120 parts alcohol, 60$, 10 parts oil\nof bitter almonds, q. s. Triturate in a por-\ncelain or Wedgwood mortar the lard and\npotassa solution and let it stand a few hours.\nThen add the alcohol and sufficient oil of bitter\nalmonds to give it the proper flavor. Finally\ntriturate until the mass is uniform and resem-\nbles mother of pearl. This cream has a hand-\nsome look, but is not so bland as other varie-\nties mentioned below.\nCamphor Cerate.— Olive oil, 34 lb.; white wax\n(pure), 34 lb.; spermaceti, 2 oz.; camphor, y 2 oz.\nMix as directed under camphor balls. 1 Used\n.as an application to chaps, chilblains, abrasions,\nexcoriations, etc., also as lip salve in cold\nweather, as a hair cosmetic and as a mild\nstimulating and anodyne friction.\nCamphor Paste.— Almond oil, 34 lb.; purified\nlard, 34 lb. wax, spermaceti and camphor each\n1 oz. Beat up the ingredients as they cool be-\nfore pouring out.\nCreme du Cathay (Farina).— Mecca turpentine,\nSgr.: oil of sweet almonds, 4 oz.; spermaceti, 2\ndrms.; flowers of zinc, 1 drm.; white wax, 2\ndrms.; rose water, 6 drms. Mix together over\na water bath. Cosmetic for the skin.\nCircassian Cream.— 1. 4 oz. fresh mutton suet\n6 oz. good olive oil 2 oz. powdered gum ben-\nzoin 34 oz. alkanet root. Put these ingredi-\nents in a jar with a cover and place the jar in a\nsaucepan of boiling water, at the side of the\nfire. Let it digest for twenty-four hours. Strain\naway the fluid part through fine muslin, and\nstir till about cold. Perfume with 2 drm. es-\nsence of roses, almonds, or any perfume de-\nsired.\n2. Purified lard, 1 lb.; benzoin suet, 1 lb.;\nFrench rose pomatum, 34 lb.; almond oil colored\nwith alkanet, 2 lb.; otto of rose, 34 oz.\n3. White wax, 166 parts olive oil, finest, 500\nparts; rose water, 100 parts; oil of bergamot,\n15 parts oil of bitter almonds, q. s. To be pre-\npared as the preceding.\nCream, Cold (Creme Celeste).— 1. Spermaceti,\n50 parts; white wax, 24 parts; oil of sweet al-\nmonds, 168 parts, are melted together at a\ngentle heat, the melted mass poured into a\nwarm porcelain or Wedgwood mortar, stirred\nuntil it begins to solidify and then intimately\nmix with rose water, 70 parts. After stirring\nuntil cold, there may be added for every 10 oz.\nof the mixture, oil of rose, 2 drops oil of bitter\nalmonds, 3 to 4 drops. This cream is white. The\nfollowing formula yields cheaper, slightly\nyellow, but still very good product\nCl ranulated Cream, Granulated Cold Cream.\n—Oil of almonds, M pt.; spermaceti (pure), 3\noz.; white wax (pure), 234 oz.; melt by a gentle\nheat and add of otto of roses, 12 drops. Pour\nthe liquid into a marble or Wedgwood ware\nmortar containing about 134 pt. of lukewarm\nwater, and agitate the whole briskly with the\npestle until the oleaginous portion is well di-\nvided. Then throw the whole suddenly into a\nbroad vesseL containing 1 or 2 gal. of cold\nwater. Next throw the granulated cream\non a piece of muslin extended as a filter and\nshake and drain as much of the water out of\nit as possible. Lastly, put it into china or\nearthenware pots. It is used as ordinary cold\ncream.\nCold Cream witli Borax.— White wax, loz.; oil\nalmonds, 4 oz.; rose water, 2 oz.; borax, 34 drm.;\notto of rose, 5 drops. Dissolve the borax in the\nrose water and (by the aid of heat) the wax in\nthe oil. While still warm, mix gradually in a\nmortar, previously warmed. Add the otto,\nstirring constantly.\nCosmolin Cream. Cosmolin, 24 troy oz.; white\nwax, 12 troy oz. spermaceti, 12 troy oz. gly-\ncerine, 3 fl. oz. oil of rose geranium, 1 fl. drm.\nMelt the wax and spermaceti, add the cosmolin;\nthen stir until nearly cold add the glycerine\nand oil, and stir until cold.— E. J. Davidson, in\nAmer. Jour. Phar.\nCucumber Cold Cream. Almond oil, 1 lb.\ngreen oil, 1 oz.; juice of cucumbers, 1 lb.; wax\nand sperm, each, 1 oz. essence of cucumber,\n2 oz.\nFox s Cream. Marrow pomatum, 2 oz.; oil of\nalmonds, 2 oz.; melt them together, by a gentle\nheat; add of huile au jasmin, 1 drm.; oil of\nbergamot, 1 drm. and otherwise proceed as\nabove. A popular and excellent hair [cosmetic\nof its class.\nGlycerine Jelly.— 1. The London Chemist and\nDi^uggist remarks Glycerine jelly is usually\ncold cream tinted with a little rose oil, and\nwith some glycerine incorporated while it is\nwarm. A more distinctive preparation is pro-\nduced as follows Transparent soap lfoz., water\n4 oz., glycerine 24 oz., by weight. Dissolve the\nsoap in the water by heat, adding an equal\nquantity of glycerine. When dissolved, and\nwhile still hot, add the remainder of the gly-\ncerine. When nearly cold, perfume according\nto choice, and pour into glass jars. This is a\ntransparent jelly of a pale amber color.\n2. Glycerine Lime Cream.— Mix equal parts\nof lime water and oil of sweet almonds, add a\nsmall quantity of glycerine, and perfume to\ntaste. If a cheaper article is required use olive\noil.\n3. Olive oil, 4 oz.; essence of lemons, 34 drm.;\nmix. Lime water, 3% oz. rectified spirit of\nwine, 34 oz.; mix, and then add to the oil and\nshake.\n4. Cream, Glycerine (Creme de Glycerine).\nSpermaceti, 60 parts white wax, 30 parts oil\nof sweet almonds, 250 parts; rose water, 10\nparts; glycerine, 20 parts. To be prepared\nlike cold cream, and to be perfumed with oil\nof rose and oil of bitter almonds.\n5. Rose Glycerine Cream.— Spermaceti, 34 oz.;\noil of sweet almonds, 2 oz.; white wax, 1 oz.;\nglycerine, 4 oz.; melt the spermaceti, white\nwax and oil of almonds together first then\nadd the glycex-ine and stir the mixture until\ncool. Perfume with attar of rose.\n6. Glycerine Cream.— This recipe is excellent;\ntake spermaceti, 4 drms.; white wax, 1 drm.;\noil of almonds, 2 troy oz.; glycerine, 1 troy oz.\nMelt the spermaceti, wax, and oil together,\nand when cooling put in the glycerine and\nperfume.\nCream, Ice. See Ice Cream.\nLanolin Cold Creams and Cooling Ointments.\nThe following are a few iormulae suggested by\nDr. Unna, the figures in the first columns being\nfor ointments and in the second for creams.\nCooling.\nParts.\nAnhydrous lanolin 10 10\nBenzoated lard 20 20\nRose water 30 60\nCooling with lime water, use the same as\nabove, but lime water instead of rose water.\nGoulard s Cerate and Cream.\nParts.\nAnhydrous lanolin 10 10\nBenzoated lard 20 20\nGoulard s solution 30 60\nCooling zinc ointment may be made like the\nrose perfumed ointment, using 20 parts of zinc\nointment in place of the benzoated lard.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0145.jp2"},"146":{"fulltext":"Creams.\n134\nCrystallization.\nCooling Pomade.\nParts.\nAnhydrous lanolin 10\nPomade 30\nDistilled water 30\nAny suitable perfume pomade may be used,\nand lime water may take the place of distilled\nwater.\nMarrow Cream.— Purified lard, 1 lb.; almond\noil, 1 lb.; palm oil, 1 oz.; otto of cloves, drm.;\notto of bergamot, \\i oz.; otto of lemon, 1}4 oz.\nMentholated Cream.— The mentholated cream\nfrequently used by barbers as a cooling appli-\ncation to the face after shaving may be pre-\npared, according to the Pharm. Era, as follows:\nPut 1 oz. tragacanth in 13 oz. of warm water,\nand allow to stand, with occasional agitation,\nfor two or three days then add 3 drm. glycer-\nine and 40 gr. menthol dissolved in oz. alco-\nhol. Color pink with tincture of cudbear.\nOriental Cold Cream.— Oil of almonds, 6 oz.;\nwhite wax and spermaceti, of each 3 drms.;\nmelt and add 6 oz. of rose water 1^ oz. orange\nflower water. This cream will soften the skin.\nIt should be applied with a cotton or linen cloth.\nCreme de Pistaehe.— Melt over a water bath\npistachio nuts, 4H£ oz.; green oil, 1% oz.; palm\nsoap, V/% oz.; wax, oz.; spermaceti, 1J4 oz.;\nadd orange flower water, 4% pt.; essence of\nneroli, 18 oz.\nShaving Paste.— 1. Naples soap, genuine, 4 oz.;\ncard soap, air dried and powdered, 3 oz.; honey,\nfinest, 1 oz.; essence of ambergris, or essence\nroyale, 8 or 10 drops oil of cassia, 8 or 10 drops;\noil of nutmeg, 8 or 10 drops beat them to a\nsmooth paste with water or eau de rose, q. s.,\nand put it into covered pots.\n3. White wax, J4 oz.; spermaceti, J4 oz.;\nalmond oil, y% oz.; melt them together by a\ngentle heat, and beat in, of honey or Windsor\nsoap, finest, J4 lb.; the soap having been pre-\nviously sliced and reduced to a paste, with rose\nwater, q. s. When the whole has sufficiently\ncooled, further add of essence of musk, or\nessence royale, 10 or 13 drops and otherwise\nproceed as before.\n3. White soft soap, 4 oz.; honey soap, finest,\nsliced, 3 oz.; olive oil, 1 oz.; water, 1 or 3 table-\nspoonfuls; carbonate of soda, 1 drm.; melt\nthem together, and form a paste, as before,\nadding a little proof spirit and scent, at will.\nSome persons melt with the soap about 1 drm.\nspermaceti.\nIn use, a very little of one of the above pastes\nis rubbed on the beard, with the tip of the\nfinger, when the wetted shaving brush is ap-\nplied. Produces a good lather with either hot\nor cold water, which dries slowly on the face.\n4. Shaving Cream.— Melt 30 lb.of lard in a steam\nbath at a temperature of 313°, and then letting\n5 lb. of caustic potash lye of 36° Baume run in\nvery slowly during constant stirring with a\nwooden paddle when the paste becomes thick,\n5 lb. more of lye are added in the same man-\nner. After several hours stirring, the mixture\nbecomes firm, and is finished. It is then trans-,,\nferred to a mortar, and triturated until the\nsoap becomes perfectly even throughout, and\nassumes a pearly appearance. Attar of almonds\nis the perfume for almond cream, and attar of\nrose for rose cream. They are dissolved in a\nlittle alcohol, and added during trituration.\nSnow Cream.— Spermaceti, 4^ oz.; white wax,\n3 oz.; fresh oil almonds, 18 oz.; melt over a\nwater bath; pour in a marble mortar, and stir\nbriskly to prevent granulation. When the\nmixture becomes of the consistency of butter,\ntriturate until it has a white, creamy appear-\nance. Add gradually a mixture of double water\nof roses, 1M oz.; odorless glycerine, 1^£ oz.; mix\nfor 30 minutes, then add 15 drops essence of\nroses; beat for about half an hour.\nVaseline Cold Cream.— Dieterich gives the fol-\nlowing formula:\nWhite wax 2*4 oz.\nSpermaceti 2]4 oz.\nOil of almonds 14^oz.\nWhite vaseline 6V£ oz.\nDistilled water 6J£ oz.\nBorax 150 grn.\nCoumarin grn.\nOil of rose 16 drops.\nOil of bergamot 16 drops.\nOil of geranium, French 5 drops.\nOil of rhodium 2 drops.\nOil of orris 1 drop.\nEssence of civet (1:10) 5 drops.\nMelt the wax, spermaceti, and vaseline in the\nalmond oil, allow the melted mass to cool to a\nsemi-liquid state, and beat it to a cream. Then\nadd the distilled water in which the borax had\npreviously been dissolved and finally add the\nperfumes, stirring constantly so as to produce\na uniform cream.\nViolet Cold Cream.— Huile violette, lib.; violet\nwater, 1 lb.; wax and spermaceti, each 1 oz.;\notto of almonds, 5 drops.\nCream, Substitute for.— Beat 3 eggs to a\nstiff froth; gradually pour over them boiling\nhot tea, until of the thickness of cream.\nCreosoting.— The injection of timber,\nwhich is exposed to atmospheric influences,\nwith creosote in order to increase its durability.\nThe timber is first deprived of its moisture,\nwhich is then replaced with creosote. The\ndurability of the wood is enhanced thereby\nfourfold.\nCreosoting Wood. See Wood, Preser-\nvation of.\nCreme des Barbades, etc. See Liquors.\nCreole Waters. See Waters.\nCrickets, to Destroy.— 1. Sprinkle alittle\nquicklime near to the cracks through which\nthey enter the room. The lime may be laid\ndown overnight and swept away in the morn-\ning. In a few days they will most likely all be\ndestroyed. But care must be taken that the\nchildren do not meddle with the lime, as a very\nsmall portion of it, getting into the eye, would\nprove exceedingly hurtful. In case of such\nan accident the best thing to do would be to\nwash the eye with vinegar and water.\n3. Put a little chloride of lime and powdered\ntobacco in their holes.\nCrocus.— The term, as employed in the me-\nchanic arts, usually refers to a preparation of\nthe oxide of iron used for polishing metal and\ngems. But the term is generic and not spe-\ncific, and means, from the Greek, saffron, a\ncolor. It is applied also to an oxide of copper\nand an oxide of antimony. It is coarser than\nrouge. Green vitriol, pulverized, is mixed with\npotassium nitrate and sodium chloride. The\nmixture is stirred up with water so that a thin\npaste is formed. The mixture should now be\nplaced in an iron crucible and heated very\ngradually until dry. Then heat in a Hessian\ncrucible until red hot, then pour out, cool,\npowder, boil with water and elutriate if neces-\nsary to purify.\nCroton Oil. See Oils.\nCroup Remedy.— Croup powder, from F.\nW. Gruse, in Berlin, contains 35 parts of com-\nmon salt, 10 of flowers of sulphur, 25 of foe-\nnum graecum, 25 of juniper berries, 5 of gentian\nroot, and 5 of fennel seed.\nCrucibles, Cement for. See Cements.\nCrucibles, Black Lead.— Mix 3 parts\ngraphite and V parts fire clay with water into\na paste, press in moulds and dry but do not\nbake hard in a kiln. This compound makes-\ngood small furnaces.\nCrystallization.— When a body in the act\nof passing from a liquid or gaseous to a solid\nstate arranges itself in symmetrical forms, the\nprocess is termed crystallization and the parts of\nthe body so aggregated are called crystals. The\nmodes of crystallization are by fusion, sub-\nlimation, solution, and chemical reaction.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0148.jp2"},"147":{"fulltext":"Crystal.\n135\nDecoctions.\nCrystal Ornament.- Ingredients Alum,\n18 oz.; water, 1 pt. Dissolve the alum in the\nwater, boiling it in a close tinned vessel over\na moderate fire, keeping it stirred with a wooden\nspatula until the solution is completed. When\nthe liquor is almost cold, suspend a small basket,\nears of corn, moss rose, hyacinth, or almost\nany vegetable specimen, by means of a small\nthread or twine from a lath or small stick\nplaced horizontally across the aperture of a\ndeep glass or earthenware jar, into which the\nsolution is poured. The respective articles\nshould remain in the solution twenty-four\nhours; when they are taken out, they are to be\ncarefully suspended in the shade until quite\ndry. The whole process of crystallization is\nbest conducted in a cool situation. When the\nobjects to be crystallized are put into the solu-\ntion while quite cold, the crystals are apt to be\nformed too large; on the other hand, should\nit be too hot, the crystals will be small in\nproportion. The best temperature is about\n95° Fah.\nCrystal Boom Ornament, to Make. Ingredi-\nents: Sulphate of alumina, sulphate of copper,\nsulphate of soda, sulphate of potass., sulphate\nof iron, sulphate of zinc, sulphate of magne-\nsia, of each oz., in separate chip boxes. Di-\nrections: Dissolve each of the salts in warm\nwater in a separate tumbler. When dissolved,\npour all together into an evaporating dish, and\nmix well with a glass rod. Place the dish in a\nwarm place where it cannot be affected by\ndust, and where it is not liable to be agitated.\nWhen evaporation has taken place, the whole\nwill begin to shoot out into crystals. Their\ncolor and peculiar form of crystallization will\ndistinguish each crystal separately, and the\nwhole together will display a very curious and\npleasing appearance. Preserve carefully from\ndust.\nCnpellation.— Gold and silver are assayed\nin shallow, conical crucibles, called cupels. The\noxides of the ore are absorbed by the cupel,\nwhile the button of precious metal remains.\nCuracao. See Liquors.\nCurling. See Brass Coloring and\nFinishing.\nSee The Hair.\nSee Wines.\nSee Powders.\nSee Vinegar.\nCurtains, to Wash. See Cleansing.\nCurvature of the Earth.— The amount\nof curvature in one mile of ocean surface is\n2*04 inches.\nCutlery, Etching for. See Etching.\nCutlery, to Harden. See Hardening.\nDaguerreotype. See Photography.\nDamaskeening. The figuration present-\ned by the surface of steel and iron guns, small\narms, etc., and also the plain brown or black\nsurface of modern steel guns, is known as\ndamaskeening, 1 and is produced by treatment\nwith weak acids, which act unequally upon the\ndifferent parts of the metal under treatment,\nthe harder portions of the metal becoming\ncovered with a thicker film of carbon than the\nsofter portions. The color of these thin films\nvaries from light brown to black, according to\nthe more or less prolonged treatment with the\nacids. If the figuration is not sufficiently ela-\nborate, owing to the metal not having sufficient\nfiber, and to the fiber being too straight and\nregular to produce the desired effect, it is cus-\ntomary for the makers of fowling pieces and\nother light goods to paint or stencil a pattern\non the surface of the metal with the acid, and\nin this way the figuration can be made as effect-\nive as desired. The solutions largely used at\nmany works are as follows\n1. For steel, sulphur, 1 oz. tincture of steel,\n1 oz. nitric acid, 1 oz. sulphuric acid, 34 oz.\nCurling Fluid.\nCurrant Wine.\nCurry Powder.\nCurry Vinegar.\nmercuric chloride, oz. copper sulphate, J4\noz. spirit of nitrous ether, 1 oz.; water, 1 qt.\n2. For iron, tincture of iron, }4 oz. nitric\nacid, 134 drm. mercuric chloride, 1 drm. cop-\nper sulphate, drm. spirits of wine, 6 drm.;\nwater, 8 oz.\n3. The solution used at Woolwich and Elswick\nfor steel guns, etc.: Tincture of iron, 2 oz.;\nnitric acid, 1 oz.; copper sulphate, 1 oz.; spirit\nof nitrous ether, 1% oz.; spirits of wine, l^foz.;\nwater, 1 gal. This is a much better solution,\nworks remarkably well; it is smeared over the\nparts, and when dry another coat is put on.\nThis will produce a brown color; but if it is not\ndark enough, the operation must be repeated\nuntil the desired tint is obtained. Six coats are\nsufficient to make the surface black. The acid\nis then killed by washing with soda solu-\ntion, and the surface rubbed with a hard brush\nor file card until smooth, after which it is\nrubbed with oily waste. For iron there is noth-\ning better than mercuric chloride or antimony\nchloride, dissolved in water, with a little spirit\nof wine added to help it to dry.\nDammar, or Damar.— A resin employ-\ned in mounting many microscopic objects, as\nteeth, hair, hard bone, and most tissues which\nhave been previously hardened by treatment\nwith alcohol and chromic acid. Dammar is\nprepared for use as follows\n1. Gum dammar, 3^ oz.; oil turpentine, 1 oz.;\ndissolve and filter.\n2. Gum mastic, 3^ oz.; chloroform, 2 oz.; dis-\nsolve and filter. Add solution 1 to solution 2.\nIf allowed to become thick by drying, dammar\nmay be used as biting. Dr. Klein.\nDammar Varnish. See Varnishes.\nDamson Wine. See Wines.\nDandruff. See The Hair.\nDead, the Preservation of. See also\nEmbalming.— (Brunetti.) 1. Wash the cir-\nculatory system with cold water. Alcohol is\ninjected to abstract the water. Ether is then\nintroduced to remove the fatty matters. A\nstrong solution is now injected, and the body is\ndried by means of warm air which has been\npassed over heated calcium chloride.\n2. A simple form of injection suitable for\nanatomical specimens consists of glycerine, 14\nparts soft sugar, 2 parts; potassium nitrate. 1\npart. This has been found to be very efficient,\nas the parts saturated with it become compar-\natively indestructible, and change neither in\nsize nor figure.\nDecantation.— The operation of pouring\nor drawing off the clear portion of a liquid,\nfrom the impurities or grosser matter that has\nsubsided. It is much resorted to in the labora-\ntory and is very simple, as the operation may\nbe performed by drawing off the water with a\nsiphon, or by simply pouring it off. See Elu-\ntriation.\nDecoctions, to Prepare. For making\ndecoctions the substances, if dry, should be\nwell bruised, or reduced to a very coare powder,\nor, if fresh and soft, they should be sliced\nsmall. In the former case, any very fine pow-\nder or adhering dust should be removed with a\nsieve, as its presence would tend to make the\nproduct thick and disagreeable, and also more\ntroublesome to strain. The vessel in which the\nboiling is conducted should be closely covered,\nthe better to exclude the air; and the heat\nshould be so regulated that the fluid may be\nkept simmering, or only gently boiling, as\nviolent boiling is both unnecessary and injuri-\nous. In every case the liquor should be strained\nwhile hot, but not boiling; and the best method\nof doing thjs is to employ a fine hair sieve or a\ncoarse flannel bag. In preparing compound\ndecoctions, those ingredients should be boiled\nfirst which impart their active principles least\nreadily, and those which most readily impart\nthem should be added afterward. In many\ncases it will be proper simply to infuse tro","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0149.jp2"},"148":{"fulltext":"Decoloration.\n136\nDiaphoretics.\nmore aromatic substances in the hot decoc-\ntions of the other ingredients, by which means\ntheir volatile principles will be preserved.\nWhen the active principles of the principal\ningredients are volatile, infusion should be had\nrecourse to, instead of boiling. Strength of.—\nDecoctions of substances not exerting a very\npowerful influence on the system may be made,\nas a general rule, by boiling an ounce, if dry,\nor a handful, if green, in a pint of water for\nten or fifteen minutes. Dose of.— The ordinary\ndose of decoctions thus prepared is a half to a\nwineglassful three or four times daily, or more\nfrequently.\nDecoloration. The blanching or loss of\nthe natural color of any substance. Sirups,\nand many animal, vegetable and saline solu-\ntions are decolored or whitened by agitation\nwith animal charcoal, and subsequent subsi-\ndence or filtration. Many fluids rapidly lose\ntheir natural color by exposure to light, especi-\nally the direct rays of the sun. In this way,\ncastor, nut, poppy, and several other oils are\nwhitened. By the joint action of light, air, and\nmoisture, cottons and linens are commonly\nbleached. The peculiar way in which light\nproduces this effect has never been satisfactor-\nily explained. That it is not dependent on the\nabsorption of oxygen, appears evident from\nthe fact that contact with air is not always\nnecessary, I find that raw castor oil, exposed\nto the sun in a bottle closely corked, will whiten\nwith as much rapidity as that in another similar\nsized bottle, placed beside it and left uncorked.\nThere is, however, a small quantity of gaseous\nmatter given off, which has an odor resembling\ncarbureted hydrogen; but in the open bottle,\noxygen is continually absorbed, certain oily\nacids formed, and some impure carbonic acid\nevolved. When this action is permitted to go\non for some time, the oil becomes thick and\nrancid, but may be partially restored to its\nformer state, by filtration through coarsely\npowdered and freshly burnt animal charcoal.\nThe latter substance is commonly employed to\ndeprive fish oils of their disagreeable odor, as\nwell as to lessen their color. The decoloration\nof textile fabrics and solid bodies generally is\ncalled bleaching.— Cooleij.\nDecrepitation.— In the vaporization of\nthe water of crystallization the substance fre-\nquently makes a crackling noise and portions\nof the substance fly up and are lost; this never\nought to occur in making an analysis.\nDefecation. —The separation of a liquid\nfrom its lees, dregs, or impurities by subsidence\nand decantation. It is commonly employed for\nthe purification of saline solutions, and glutin-\nous or unctuous liquids on the large scale, in\npreference to filtration.\nDeflagration.— A kind of roasting effected\nby rapidly heating the substance with some\nadditional body as an oxidizing agent, as a\nchlorate or nitrate. Ihe heat should be applied\ngradually.\nDeliquescence. -The absorption of the mois-\nture of the atmosphere by substances and their\nsolution therein. The term is applied to certain\nsalts that by exposure gradually assume the\nliquid state. Such salts are said to be deli-\nquescent.\nDelta Metal. See Alloys.\nDentifrices. See The Teeth.\nDepilatories. See The Hair.\nDepreciation of Machinery, etc., per\nAnnum on First Cost.\nEngines\nBoilers\nMachines\nMillwork and gearing\nBands and belts\nDeprecia-\nWear and\ntion.\nTear.\n3%\n3\n1%\n3\nb%\n3\n3%\nw\n45\nTotal.\n10\n8\n45\nDesilvering. See Silvering.\nDesiccation.— The drying of substances by\ndriving off or evaporating their watery por-\ntion by means of natural or artificial heat, cur-\nrents of air, or exposing them to air rendered\nartificially dry.\nDeveloper. See Photography.\nDewrance s Metal. See Alloys. White\nMetal.\nDextrine.— British or starch gum. A solu-\nble substance resembling gum, formed by the\naction of dilute acids at the boiling tempera-\nture, and by infusion of malt at about 160° F.\non starch. It is also formed when potato starch\nis heated to 400° Fah. Used extensively in the\nmanufacture of mucilages, etc. It resembles\ngum. Its name is derived from the action of\nits solution on polarized light; it causes the\nplane of polarization to deviate to the right.\nCommercial dextrine, or British gum, is\nobtained by heating dry potato starch to a\ntemperature of 750° Fah. in sheet iron trays\nor revol ving iron or copper drums, similar to\nthose used in coffee roasting, whereby it is\ntransformed into semi-transparent, brownish\nlumps, which are converted into a pale yellow\npowder by grinding between millstones. It is\ncompletely soluble in cold water, from which\nit may be precipitated by addition of excess\nof strong alcohol. Potato starch is generally\nused, but starch from other sources will an-\nswer. The best tests to ascertain its purity are\nto agitate briskly a few grains of the dextrine in\na test tube with fifty times its weight of pure\ncold water; then set it aside for 10 minutes.\nPure dextrine dissolves completely in cold water\nto a clear solution. If not all dissolved pour\noff the solution, add a little water to the residue,\nheat to boiling, let cool, and add a few drops of\niodine water a blue color indicates starch.\nDextrin Paste. See Pastes.\nDiagrams for Lantern Use.— Take thin\ntransparent sheet zylonite or celluloid and wash\n•thoroughly with water. When dry rub with\nfine whiting, to remove all grease. Drawings\nor writing can now be placed on the zylonite\nas easily as on paper. Tracings can be readily\nmade which are better than those on gelatine.\nClamp the finished work between two glasses\n334 by 4 in., and bind the edge with paper.\nDialysis.— Dialysis means effecting analysis\nby diffusion through porous septa. The appara-\ntus consists of a wooden or gutta percha hoop,\nhaving a parchment bottom. It is used for the\nseparation of all crystallizable bodies from all\ngelatinous bodies, etc. The substance to be\nanalyzed, is placed in the dialyzer, and floated\non pure distilled water. It must be allowed to\nstand thus for at least twenty-four hours, when\nat the end of that time the crystalline sub-\nstances will have passed or diffused through the\nparchment and dissolved in the water, leaving\nthe gelatinous matter still in the dialyzer.\nDiamantkitt. See Cements.\nDiamonds, to Test.— Put the stone in a\nleaden cup with some powdered fluorspar and\na little oil of vitriol. Warm the vessel over\na fire where there is a copious draught to carry\noff the noxious vapors that will be evolved.\nWhen these vapors have ceased, stir the mix-\nture with a glass rod to fish out the diamond.\nA genuine stone will remain- intact, but a fic-\ntitious one will be corroded by the hydrofluoric\nacid that has been generated around it. Dan-\nf-erous. Perform only in the open air, if at all.\nNot recommended. Ed.]\nDiaphoretics. —The medicines which are\nused in illnesses where there is fever and great\ndryness of the skin, to create perspiration.\nBoneset Tea (to Cause Perspiration).—!}^ oz.\nbo: set is stood in 1^ pt. boiling water for half\nan hour, and a wineglassful is administered\nto the patient as hot as he can take it, every\nhalf hour.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0150.jp2"},"149":{"fulltext":"Diarrhoea.\n137\nDisinfectants.\nDiarrhoea Mixture.— Loomis 1 Diarrhoea\nMixture.— Tincture of opium, y 2 fluid oz.; tinc-\nture of rhubarb, fluid oz.; compound tincture\nof catechu (IT. S. P.), 1 fluid oz.; oil of sassafras,\n20 minims; compound tincture of lavender,\nenough to make 4 fluid oz.\nSquibb s Diarrhcea Mixture. Tincture of\nopium, 1 fluid oz.; tincture of capsicum, 1 fluid\noz.; spirit of camphor, 1 fluid oz.: purified chlo-\nroform, 180 minims; alcohol, enough to make 5\nfluid oz.\nTI)ielemann 8 Diarrhcea Mixture.— Wine of\nopium, 1 fluid oz.; tincture of valerian, 1J4 fluid\noz.; ether, y 2 fluid oz.; oil of peppermint, 60\nminims; fluid extract of ipecac, 15 minims: al-\ncohol, enough to make 4 fluid oz. This prepara-\ntion is practically identical with the Mixtura.\nThielemanni of the Swedish Pharm.\nVclpeau s Diarrhcea Mixture.— Tincture of\nopium, compound tincture of catechu (IT. S. P.),\nspirit of camphor, each equal volumes.\nDiastase.— A peculiar substance, contained\nin malt, which effects the conversion of starch\ninto dextrine and grape sugar. It may be pro-\ncured from a cold infusion of malt, by adding\nalcohol, which precipitates it under the form\nof a tasteless white powder. In this state it is\nfreely soluble in water. It appears from ex-\nperiments that 1 part of diastase will convert\n2,000 parts of starch into grape sugar. Malted\nbarley is said to contain part of this sub-\nstance; yet this small portion is quite sufficient\nto convert the starch of the malt into sugar\nduring the operation of mashing, provided this\nbe properly conducted. The most favorable\ntemperature for this conversion is 140° to 149°\nPah.\nDigestion.— Is the term used to denote\nthe action of liquids upon substances from\nwhich it is desired to extract the active princi-\nples, when aUowed to remain upon them for\nsome time at a temperature of from 90° to 100°.\nIt is sometimes performed at a higher tempera-\nture, but must always be kept below that at\nwhich the liquid boils. To secure the uniform\ntemperature required, the bath is usually em-\nployed.\nDigestive Pastilles.— Bismuth subnitrate\n20 parts, calcium phosphate 30 parts, sodium bi-\ncarbonate 10 parts, magnesium carbonate 200\nparts, iron carbonate 50 parts, sugar 1,000 parts.\nFlavor with peppermint make in pastilles\nthree to twelve may be taken daily.\nDigestive Pastilles of Borivent— Bismuth sub-\nnitrate 20 parts, calcium phosphate 30 parts,\nsodium bicarbonate 10 parts, magnesium car-\nbonate 200 parts, iron carbonate 50 parts, sugar\n1,000 parts. Flavor with essence of peppermint,\nanise, or orange flowers. Make into pastilles of\n1 grm. each, of which 3 to 12 may be taken\ndaily.\nDiluents.— Aqueous liquors which increase\nthe fluid part of the body; tea, barley water,\ngruels, etc., are the best known.\nDip, Carbolicj for Stock.— Receipt for\nmaking a carbolic dip into which stock may be\nplunged for killing lice and mites. Use soft\nsoap 1 gal., heat with 30 gal. of water up to a\ntemperature of 140°, then add 1 qt. of crude car-\nbolic acid then cool down to 110° and dip the\nsheep or lambs but for other animals, pour it\nalong the back, so that it runs down the sides.\nGreat care must be taken that it is applied to the\nbrisket, under the shoulders and thighs. For\nthe sheep scab mites the temperature should be\n120°, and the scabs should be completely broken\nup by a corn cob.\nDips for Brass. See Brass, Coloring\nof.\nDisinfectants and How to Use Them.\nThe National Board of Health, consisting of\na number of our leading physicians and chem-\nical experts, of which Prof. C. F. Chandler is\nchairman, have issued the following instruc-\ntions for disinfection, intended especially for\nyellow fever districts, but which are equally\napplicable in other classes of contagious dis-\neases.\nNo reliance can be placed on disinfectants\nsimply because they smell of chlorine or car-\nbolic acid, or possess the color of permanganate,\nand that, in general, proprietary disinfectants\nwith high-sounding names are practically\nworthless, as they either have no value what-\never or, if of value, cost many times as much\nas they are worth, and cannot be used in suffi-\ncient quantity.\nExplanations.— Disinfection is the destruc-\ntion of the poisons of infectious and conta-\ngious diseases. Deodorizers, or substances\nwhich destroy smells, are not necessarily dis-\ninfectants, and disinfectants do not necessarily\nhave an odor. Disinfection cannot compen-\nsate for want of cleanliness or of ventilation.\n1. Disinfectants to be employed. 1. Roll\nsulphur, brimstone, for fumigation.\n2. Sulphate of iron, copperas, dissolved in\nwater in the proportion of V lb. to the gal.;\nfor soil, sewers, etc.\n3. Sulphate of zinc and common salt, dis-\nsolved together in water in the proportions of\n4 oz. sulphate and 2 oz. salt to the gal.; for\nclothing, bed linen, etc.\nNote. -Carbolic acid is not included in the\nabove list for the following reasons: It is very\ndifficult to determme the quality of the com-\nmercial article, and the purchaser can never be\ncertain of securing it of proper strength; it is\nexpensive, when of good quality, and experi-\nence has shown that it must be employed in\ncomparatively large quantities to be of any\nuse; it is liable by its strong odor to give a false\nsense of security.\nII. How to Use Disinfectants.— 1. In the Sick\nRoom.— The most available agents are fresh air\nand cleanliness. The clothing, towels, bed\nlinen, etc., should at once, on removal from\nthe patient, be placed in a pail or tub of the\nzinc solution, boiling hot if possible, before re-\nmoval from the room. All discharges should\neither be received in vessels containing cop-\nperas solution, or, when this is impracticable,\nshould be immediately covered with copperas\nsolution. All vessels used about the patient\nshould be cleansed with the same solution.\nUnnecessary furniture— especially that which\nis stuffed— carpets, and hangings, when possi-\nble, should be removed from the room at the\noutset; otherwise, they should remain for sub-\nsequent fumigation and treatment.\n2. Fumigation with sulphur is the only prac-\nticable method for disinfecting the house. For\nthis purpose the rooms to be disinfected must\nbe vacated. Heavy clothing, blankets, bedding,\nand other articles which cannot be treated\nwith zinc solution, should be opened and ex-\nposed during fumigation, as directed below.\nClose the rooms as tightly as possible, place the\nsulphur in iron pans supported upon bricks, set\nit on fire by hot coals, or with the aid of a\nspoonful of alcohol, and allow the room to re-\nmain closed for twenty-four hours. For a\nroom about ten feet square, at least two\npounds of sulphur should be used; for larger\nrooms, proportionally increased quantities.\n3. Premises, cellars, yards, stables, gutters,\nprivies, cesspools, water closets, drains, sewers,\netc., should be frequently and liberally treated\nwith copperas solution. The copperas solu-\ntion is easily prepared by hanging a basket\ncontaining about sixty pounds of copperas in\na barrel of water.\n4. Body and Bed Clothing, etc.— It is best to\nburn all articles which have been in contact\nwith persons sick with contagious or infec-\ntious diseases. Articles too valuable to be de-\nstroyed should be treated as follows: a. Cot-\nton, linen, flannels, blankets, etc., should be\ntreated with the boiling hot zinc solution, in-\ntroducing piece by piece, securing thorough\nwetting, and boiling for at least half an hour.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0151.jp2"},"150":{"fulltext":"Disinfectants.\n138\nDragon.\nh. Heavy woolen clothing, silks, furs, stuffed\nbed covers, beds, and other articles which can-\nnot be treated with the zinc solution, should\nbe hung in the room during fumigation, pock-\nets being turned inside out, and the whole gar-\nment thoroughly exposed. Afterward they\nshould be hung in the open air, beaten, and\nshaken. Pillows, beds, stuffed mattresses, up-\nholstered furniture, etc., should be cut open,\nthe contents spread out and thoroughly fumi-\ngated. Carpets are best fumigated on the\nfloor, but should afterward be removed to the\nopen air and thoroughly beaten.\n5. The corpses should be thoroughly washed\nwith a zinc solution of double strength, then\nwrapped in a sheet wet with the zinc solution,\nand buried at once. Metallic, metal-lined, or\nair-tight coffins should be used when possible,\ncertainly when the body is to be transported\nfor any considerable distance.\nEckstein finds that bleaching powder is the\nmost effective disinfectant for privies, urinals,\netc., inasmuch as it rapidly decomposes hydro-\ngen compounds, such as ammonia, sulphuret-\ned hydrogen, etc. It is conveniently applied\nin a bag made of parchment paper, through\nwhich the disinfectant slowly passes by osmosis.\nComparative experiments made in the author s\nhouse (where at least one hundred persons\nuse the closets daily) gave the following\nresults\n1. 2 lb. sulphate of iron (green vitriol) dis-\nsolved in water prevented the production of\nsmell for two or three nours, and had wholly\nlost its preservative action in twelve hours.\n2. Sulphate of copper in solution produced\nthe same result.\n3. 2 lb. solid sulphate of iron or sulphate of\ncopper acted as a disinfectant for two full days.\n4. A mixture of iron and copper sulphates\nand carbolate of lime (2 lb. in all) only remained\nactive for two days.\n5. Solution of sulphurous acid lost its action\nquickly it was perceptible to the respiratory\norgans for an hour.\n6. Crude carbolic acid filled the house with a\npeculiar tarry odor for two days. This was so\npowerful that it could not be determined wheth-\ner the smell of the f aecal matter was decompos-\ned or merely hidden by a more powerful odor.\n7. 2 lb. sulphate of iron in a parchment paper\nbag only became active after two hours, and\nremained active for full three days, at the end\nof which time the bag contained a muddy\nliquor destitute of smell.\n8. 2 lb. good commercial bleaching powder in\na parchment bag became active in two hours,\nand remained efficacious for full nine days,\nwithout in the least affecting respiration or\nsmell.\n9. Crude permanganate of soda disinfected\nimmediately, but only lasted for one day. In a\nparchment paper bag the same quantity lasted\ntwo days.\n10. As regards remedies which prevent the\nfurther development of spores, the following\nresults were obtained. The first number means\nretarding the development, the rest totally\npreventing it:\nCorrosive sublimate ....1 1,600,000 1:320,000\nOil of mustard 1:330,000 1:33,000\nArsenite of potash 1 100,000 1 10,000\nThymol 1 i 80,000\nOil of turpentine 1 75,000\nHydrocyanic acid 1 40,000 1 8,000\nOil of peppermint 1 33,0u0\nChromic acid 1.: 10,000 1 5,000\nPicric acid 1:10,000 1:5,000\nIodine 1:5,000\nSalicylic acid .1 3,300 1 1,500\nPermang. of potash 1 3,000\nMuriatic acid 1 2,500 1 1,700\nCamphor 1 2,500\nEucalyptol 1 2,500\nBenzoic acid 1:2,000\nBorax 1:2,000 1:700\nCarbolicacid 1:1,250 1:300\nRecent researches have demonstrated that\nmany of the agents which have been found\nuseful as deodorizers, or as antiseptics, are en-\ntirely without value for the destruction of dis-\nease germs.\nAntiseptic agents, however, exercise a re-\nstraining influence upon the development of\ndisease germs, and their use during epidemics\nis to be recommended when masses of organic\nmaterial in the vicinity of human habitations\ncannot be completely destroyed, or removed,\nor disinfected.\nA large number of the proprietary disin-\nfectants, 1 so called, which are in the market,\nare simply deodorizers or antiseptics of greater\nor less value, and are entirely untrustworthy\nfor disinfecting purposes.\nDisplacement. See Percolation.\nDistillation is the vaporizing a liquid in\none vessel, and conducting it in this condition\nto another, where it is condensed and collected.\nIt may be used for separating liquids from\nsolid substances with which they are mixed,\nfor separating more volatile liquids, as ether or\nalcohol, with which they are mixed, from\nothers less so, and for impregnating liquids\nwith the volatile principles of plants, etc., as in\nthe preparation of the aromatic spirits, cologne\nwater, etc. It may be performed in a small\nway with a glass retort and receiver, the heat\napplied by a spirit lamp, and the condensation\neffected by placing the retort in a vessel of\ncold water, or surrounding it with a cloth wet\nwith cold water.\nDiuretics.— Those medicines promoting the\nsecretion of urine; the principal diuretics being\nthose which act by increasing the watery por-\ntion of the blood.\nBuchu Leaves.— 1 oz. of leaves are infused in\n1 pt. of boiling water for three or four hours.\nDose A wineglassf ul three times a day.\nDolls Heads, Composition for.— Take\n50 parts pulverized clay slate and mix it with a\npaste already compounded of 20 parts paper\npulp and 30 parts plaster of Paris and water q. s.\nThis is then ready for casts.\nDominical Letter, to Find.— Rule:\nDivide the number of centuries and the years\nof the given century each by 4, and the years\nagain by 7 multiply the remainders respect-\nively by 2, 2, and 4; add together the three pro-\nducts, and increase their sum by 1 then divide\nthe whole sum by 7, and the remainder will be\nthe ordinal number of the dominical letter re-\nquired. If remain, it will be the 7th, or G. In\nbissextile years two dominical letters are used.\nExample: 1884.\n4 and 2 rem. 2X2=4\n8 r 4 21 and rem. 0x2\n8 7 4 12 and rem. 0x4\n4\nAddl\nwhich, being less than 7, is the ordinal number\nfor E it being a bissextile year, F precedes E\nuntil the 1st of March, the order of the letters\nbeing reversed as applied to the succeeding\nyears.\nDoor Plates, Composition for. See\nCompositions.\nDoors, to Prevent the Creaking of.—\nRub a little soap on the hinges; or, make a\nmixture of equal parts of lard, black lead, and\nsoap, and apply.\nDragon s Blood. (Sanguis Draconis.)— A\nrich, red colored resin, obtained from various\nspecies of the genus Calamus. Its color in the\nlump is a dark, brownish red; in powder bright\nred. It is friable, breaks with a shining fracture,\nand has a sp. gr. not higher than 1*196 or 1*197.\nWhen pure, it readily dissolves in alcohol,\nether, and oils, yielding rich red transparent\nsolutions. Adulterated and factitious dragon s","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0152.jp2"},"151":{"fulltext":"Drawing.\n139\nDriers.\nblood is only partly soluble, and lacks the rich\ncolor of the genuine article. Dragon s blood is\nchiefly used to tinge varnishes and lacquers.\nFactitious Dragon s Blood.— Red sanders, 7\nparts; yellow resin, 9 parts; castor oil, 2 parts;\nbenzoic acid, 3 parts; oxalate of lime, 1 part;\nphosphate of lime, 2 parts. Mix, with heat.\n©rawing Crayons. See Crayons.\nDrawings, to Color.— For coloring draw-\nings the most soluble, brilliant, and transparent\nwater colors are used; this particularly applies\nto plans and sections. The color is not so much\nintended to represent that of the material to\nbe used in the construction as to clearly dis-\ntinguish one material from another employed\non the same work. The following table shows\nthe colors most employed by the profession\nCarmine of crim- j For brickwork in plan or\nson lake section to be executed.\nI Flintwork, lead, or parts\nPrussian blue of brickwork to be re-\nmoved by alterations.\nVenetian red Brickwork in elevation.\nViolet carmine Granite.\nRaw sienna English timber (not oak).\nBurnt sienna Oak, teak.\nIndian yellow.... Fir timber.\nIndian red.... Mahogany.\nSepia Concrete works, stone.\nBurnt umber Clay, earth.\nPayne s gray C n i ron rough ou Sht\nDark cadmium.. Gun metal.\nGamboge Brass.\nIndigo W ••ought iron (bright).\ntlffeS^.I Steel (bright).\nHooker s green... Meadow land\nCobalt blue Sky effects.\nAnd some few others occasionally for special\npurposes.— Mechanie s Own BooJi.\nDrawings, to Fix.— 1. Immerse the draw-\ning in skimmed milk. A special fixative is sold\nfor the purpose by dealers in art materials.\nCollodion, if very thin, might be used with ad-\nvantage; often used for manuscripts.\n2. Flow with, very thin collodion.\n3. 2 tablespoonf uls of rice boiled in 1 pt. or\nV/z pt. of water; strain, and pass the drawing\nquickly through the liquid; use a large flat dish\nfor the liquid.\n4. Prepare water starch, in the manner of the\nlaundress, of such a strength as to form a jelly\nwhen cold, and then apply with a broad camel\nhair brush, as in varnishing. The same may be\ndone with thin cold isinglass water or size, or\nrice water.\nDrawing on Glass.— To write or draw on\nglass, it is necessary to impart to the surface\na certain degree of roughness. This may be\ndone by grinding or etching, but much more\neasily by applying some appropriate varnish.\nA good matt varnish is made by dissolving in 2\noz. of ether, 90 grms. of sandarac and 20 grms.\nmastic, and adding benzol, y%, oz. to 1% oz., ac-\ncording to the fineness of the matt required.\nThe varnish is applied to the cold plate after it\nhas set. The glass may be heated to in-\nsure a firm and even grain. To render the\nglass again transparent, after writing upon it,\napply with a brush a solution of sugar or gum\nacacia.\nStill better as a surface for writing or draw-\ning is a varnish of sugar. Dissolve equal parts\nof white and brown sugar in water to a thin\nsirup, add alcohol, and apply to hot glass plates.\nThe film dries very rapidly, and furnishes a\nsurface on which it is perfectly easy to write\nwith pen or pencil. The best ink to use is\nIndia ink, with sugar added. The drawing can\nbe made permanent by varnishing with a lac\nor mastic varnish.\nDrawing Ink. See Inks.\nDrawing Instruments, to Clean. See\nCleansing.\nDrawings, Lacquer for. See Lac-\nquers.\nDrawings or Paper, Mounting on\nLinen.— The linen or calico is first stretched\nby tacking it tightly on a frame or stretcher. It\nis then thoroughly coated with strong size, and\nleft until nearly dry. The sheet of paper to be\nmounted requires to be well covered with\npaste; this will be best if done twice, leaving\nthe first coat about ten minutes to soak into\nthe paper. After applying the second coat,\nplace the paper on the linen and dab it all over\nwith a clean cloth. Cut off when thoroughly\ndry.\nDrawings, to Mount and Varnish.—\nPaste the drawing on the background. Flour\npaste is as good as any; and when it is dry, size\nthe surface with a solution of gum arabic or\nwhite glue. When that is dry, use any varnish\nyou please. For a delieate picture or drawing,\ndammar varnish is the best; but it must be ap-\nplied rapidly to secure an even surface.\nDrawing Paper. See Paper.\nDrawing Paper, to Prevent Oil\nSpreading on.— Dissolve *4 oz. clear gela-\ntine in 6 oz. hot water, strain and apply to\npaper. Let it get dry before painting.\nDrawing Paper, to Fix on Drawing\nBoards.— Take a sheet of drawing paper and\ndamp it on the back side with a wet sponge\nand clean water. While the paper is expand-\ning, take aspoonful of wheat flour, mix with a\nlittle cold water, and make it a moderately thick\npaste; spread the paste round the edge of the\ndrawing paper 1 in. wide with a feather, then\nturn the drawing paper over and press the\nedges down on the board. After this take four\nstraight pieces of deal wood, in. by 2J4 in.\nwide; place them on the edge of the drawing\npaper, and put a large book or heavy weight\non each corner to make the paper adhere firm-\nly to the board. In about an hour s time the\npaper will be straight and even, and quite\nready for executing a drawing. When the\ndrawing is finished, take a sharp knife and\nraise one corner of the paper, then take a\nscale, run it round the edges, and the paper wiil\ncome off easily. Turn it over and take the dry\npaste off with a knife, and all will be perfectly\nclean, and no paper will be wasted.\nDimensions of Drawings for Pa-\ntents, United States. All of drawing\nand signature to be within marginal line of\n8x13 in. Leave 1 in. margin, making the paper\n10x15 in.\nDra wrings, to Trace. Tf the paper upon\nwhich the tracing is to be made is soaked with\nbenzine by means of a cotton pad, sopping it\ninto the pores of the paper, the latter will be-\ncome so transparent that the most delicate\nlines and tints may be seen more readily than\nthrough the finest tracing paper. Indian ink,\nwater colors, or pencil take equally well upon\npaper thus treated, and last better than upon\nany other kind of tracing paper. Any kind\nof opaque drawing paper in ordinary use may\nbe employed for this purpose, stretched in the\nusual manner over the drawing to be traced.\nThe benzine rapidly evaporates, and the paper\nresumes its original opaque appearance without\nshowing the slightest trace of the process to\nwhich it has been subjected. When large pic-\ntures are to be traced, the benzine should only\nbe applied to a part of the paper at a time, in\naccordance with the progress of the work.\nDrawings, Varnish for. See Var-\nnishes.\nDriers.— 1. For a liquid drier, boil 1 qt. linseed\noil for an hour with a pound of finely powdered\nbinoxide of manganese. For a solid drier use\nborate of manganese in powder, or mixed with\noil.\n2. Cobalt and Manganese Benzoates.— Benzoic\nacid is dissolved in boiliug water, the liquid be-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0153.jp2"},"152":{"fulltext":"Driers.\n140\nDrowned,\ning continually stirred, and neutralized with\ncobalt carbonate until effervescence ceases.\nExcess of carbonate is removed by filtration,\nand the liquor is evaporated to dryness. The\nsalt thus prepared is an amorphous, hard,\nbrownish material, which may be powdered\nlike rosin, and kept in the pulverulent state in\nany climate, simply folded in paper. Painting\nexecuted with a paint composed of 3 parts\nof this drier, with 1,000 of oil and 1,200 of zinc\nwhite, dries in 18 to 20 hours. Manganese\nbenzoate is prepared in the same way, sub-\nstituting- manganese carbonate for that of\ncobalt. Applied under similar circumstances,\nit dries a little more rapidly, and a little less is\nrequired. Urobenzoic (hippuric) acid is equally\nefficacious.\n3. Cobalt and Manganese Borates.— These\nsalts also, in the same proportions, are found to\nbe of equal efficacy. The latter is extremely\nactive, and requires to be used in much smaller\nproportions.\n4. Resinates. If an alkaline resinate of pot-\nash or soda be dissolved in hot water, and\nthis solution be precipitated by a solution of\na proportionate quantity of cobalt or man-\nganese chloride or sulphate, an amorphous re-\nsinate is formed, which, after being collected on\ncloth filters, washed, and dried, forms an excel-\nlent drier.\n5. Zumatic (Transparent)\nDrier. Take zinc carbonate,\n90 lb.; manganese borate, 10\nlb.; linseed oil, 90 lb. Grind\nthoroughly, and keep in\nbladders or tin tubes. The\nlatter are preferable.\n6. Zumatic (Opaque) Drier.\n—Manganese borate, as a\ndrier, is so energetic that it\nis proper to reduce its ac-\ntion in the following way:\nTake zinc white, 25 lb.; man-\nganese borate, 1 lb. Mix\nthoroughly, first by hand,\nthen in a revolving drum;\n1 lb. of this mixed with 20 lb.\npaint insures rapid drying.\n7. Manganese Oxide.— Puri-\nfied linseed oil is boiled for\n6 or 8 hours, and to every 100\nlb. boiled oil are added 5 lb.\npowdered manganese perox-\nide, which may be kept sus-\npended in a bag, like litharge.\nThe liquid is boiled and stir-\nred for 5 or 6 hours more,\nand then cooled and filtered.\nThis drying oil is employed\nin tbe proportion of 5 to 10\nper cent, of the zinc white.\n8. Guynemer s.— Take pure\nmanganese sulphate, 1 part;\nmanganese acetate, 1 part;\ncalcined dnc sulphate, 1\npart; white zinc oxide, 97\nparts. Grind the sulphates\nand acetate to impalpable\npowder, sift through a metal-\nlic sieve. Dust 3 parts of\nthis powder over 97 parts of\nzinc oxide, spread out over\nslab or board, thoroughly\nmix, and grind. The result-\ning white powder, mixed in\nthe proportion of H or 1 per\ncent, with zinc white, will en-\normously increase the dry-\ning property of this body,\nwhich will become dry in ten\nor twelve hours.\nIn using driers, observe that you (1) do not\nemploy them needlessly with pigments which\ndry well in oil color, (2) nor in excess, which\nwould retard the drying, (3) nor add them to\nthe color until about to be used, (4) nor use\nmore than one drier to the same color, (5) nor\nuse any at all in the finishing coat of light\ncolors.— Mechanics Own Book.\n9. A good drier for paints is made by grinding\nor dissolving a small quantity of sugar of lead\nin linseed oil.\n10. Drier for Oil Colors and Varnishes.— Water\n100 parts; gum lac, 12 parts; boi*ax, 4 parts.\n11. Driers (Painters Litharge (best) ground\nto a paste, with drying oil. For dark colors.\n12. White copperas and drying oil; as the last.\n13. Sugar of lead and drying oil. The last two\nare for pale colors.\n14. White copperas and sugar of lead, of each\n1 lb. pure white lead, 2 lb. For whites,\nand opaque light colors, grays, etc. Driers\nare employed, as the name implies, to increase\nthe drying and hardening properties of oil\npaints. A little is beat up with them at the\ntime of mixing them with the oil and turpen-\ntine for use.\nDrills, to Harden. See Hardening.\nDrills, to Temper, See Tempering.\nDross.— The sullage, scurf, oxide, and other\nimpurities which are skimmed off the top of\nmolten metals, or which accumulates in the\nhead or in the riser.\nDrowned.- Rules for Artificial Respiration\nin the Treatment of the Disowned— Rule I. (Fig.\n1.)— To Drain and Force Water from the Lungs\nFig. 1,\nand Stomach.— Instantly place patient face\ndownward, a hard roll of clothing being placed\nbeneath the pit of the stomach, to raise it as\nmuch as possible above the level of the mouth.\nPut one wrist of the patient under his forehead\nto raise his mouth off the ground. With hands","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0154.jp2"},"153":{"fulltext":"Druxey.\n141\nDyeing.\nwell spread upon the patient s back, above the\nroll of clothing, throw upon it yOur whole\nweight with a forward motion, and keep up the\npressure about three seconds, so as to force all\nwater from the stomach and lungs out of the\nmouth, ending the pressure with a push whicb\nwill help to jerk you back to your upright po-\nsition. Repeat this once or twice, and then\nquickly proceed with—\nRule II. (Fig. 2.) To make the patient\nbreathe.— Turn the patient face upward, the\nsame hard roll of clothing being now beneath\nhis back, the shoulders slightly drooping over\nit. Bend the head backward and downward,\nputting the throat on the stretch to the ut-\nmost. Place the hands of the patient on the\ntop of his head; one twist of a handkerchief\nor string around the crossed wrists will keep\nthem there. Rip or strip all clothing from\nwaist and neck. Now kneel astride the patient s\nhips. Grasp the front part of the chest on both\nsides of the pit of the stomach, your thumbs\npointing to patient s chin, and your fingers fit-\nting into the grooves between the short ribs.\nFix your elbows firmly, making them one with\nyour sides and hips, and then, firmly pressing\nthe sides of the patient together, and using\nyour knees as a pivot, throw yourself slowly\nforward two or three seconds until your face\nalmost touches the face of the patient, and\nyour whole weight presses upon his chest. End\nthis pressure with a short push which suddenly\njerks you back again to the upright kneeling\nposition.\nRest three seconds while the ribs spring back;\nthen repeat this bellows-blowing movement\nas before, gradually increasing the rate from\nseven to ten times a minute; but take the ut-\nmost care, on the occurrence of a natural\ngasp, not to interrupt it; but, as the ribs fall,\ngently press them and deepen the gasp into a\nlonger breath, Continue this until the natural\nbreathing, which you are imitating, needs no\nfurther assistance. If all fails, keep on, be-\ncause any moment within an hour s effort\nyou may be unexpectedly rewarded with suc-\ncess.\nAvoid impatient vertical pushes; the force\nmust be upward and inward, increased gradu-\nally from zero to the maximum the age, sex,\netc., may indicate.\nIf a second person be present and can do it,\nthe tongue should be held out of one corner of\nthe mouth by the thumb and finger, armed\nwith a piece of dry cotton or linen rag. (Fig.\n2, a.)\nWe take our illustrations from the London\nLancet.\nDruggists Show Bottles. See Show\nBottles.\nDruxey.- Timber in a state of decay, with\nwhite, spongy veins.\nDubbing.— Resin, 10 lb.; tailow, 5 lb.; train\noil, 5 gal.\nDuctility.— That property of metals in\nvirtue of which they can be drawn out into\nwires. This property depends partly on mal-\nleability, but chiefly upon the tenacity of the\nparticles composing the metal.\nDusting Powders. See Powders.\nDyes for the Hair. See The Hair.\nDyeing.— Dyeing receipts in receipt books\nare frequently unreliable, either on account of\nbeing obtained from some other source than\nthe practical dye, or in consequence of being\nantiquated. Failures will inevitably result\nif the minute details of the art are not well un-\nderstood. The dyeing receipts here given are\nmainly selected from t he writings of Crookes,\nGardner, and Reimann, and are probably the\nmost reliable that can be obtained the more\ncomplex formulas are intended solely for the\nuse of the practical dyer. The quantities can,\nof course, be reduced to render them propor-\ntionate to the quantity of goods to be dyed.\nThe source of the receipt will be indicated by a\ncapital letter placed at the bottom of each\nrecei pt. C. for W. Crookes. G. f or J Gardner.\nR. for Reimann.\nGeneral instructions in the art of dyeing,\nmordants, raising agents, etc., are given before\nthe classified receipts.\nThe tinctorial arts, in the widest sense of the\nterm, include the production of color on or-\nganic fibers and surfaces of the most varied\nkinds— silk, hair, wool, leather, fur, feathers,\nbone, ivory, horn, Avood, cotton, tlax, jute,\nhemp, paper, etc.— whether in their original\ncondition or after having undergone some\nmanufacturing process. Where the object in\nview is to obtain one uniform color over the\nentire surface, the process is called staining, if\nthe material taken in hand is wood, bone, ivory,\nor paper; and it is called dyeing if the sub-\nstance is a fiber capable of being spun or woven\nor the threads or tissues obtained from such\nfibers. These distinctions, however, are not\nvery closely observed and have no better basis\nthan custom.\nGeneral Instructions for Dyeing.— We will first\nnotice the vessels used to receive and contain\nthe goods to be dyed, the coloring matters, and\nthe water necessary to hold the latter in solu-\ntion. They are called by a variety of names, as\nvats (German Kuepe)— term generally re-\nstricted to indigo work— becks, troughs, pans,\nkettles, baths, holes, cisterns, etc. The ma-\nterial of which they are constructed differs\naccording to the kind of work to be done. For\nblacks and other dark colors, iron and copper\nare often employed. For bright or light\nshades, such as the bulk of the aniline colors,\ncochineal and safnower work, etc., block tin is\npreferable it is not easily acted upon by such\nfeebly acid and alkaline solutions as are used in\ndyeing; and if a trace of the metal is dissolved,\nit is not calculated to deprive the color of its\nluster and purity. Block tin has the further\nadvantage that the dyer, on beginning a fresh\nlot of goods, can easily see whether the pan is\nperfectly clean. Its chief defect is the com-\nparatively high expense.\nWhether an open fire or steam is preferable\nis a question on which there is some difference\nof opinion; but where an exact regulation of\nheat is essential, e. g., when the temperature\nhas to be gradually raised to a boil within a\ncertain time, or when a given degree of the\nthermometer must not be exceeded, steam will\nbe found the more convenient.\nThe goods before being entered in the dye\npan require to be thoroughly wetted; without\nthis precaution there is danger of the color\nworking on irregularly.\nIt is in most cases necessary that the goods\nduring the process of dyeing should be kept in\nmotion, either from time to time or constantly.\nOne method of insuring regularity in dyeing,\nespecially in the case of colors which work very\nreadily on to the fiber, is to add the required\nquantity of dye, not all in one dose at the be-\nginning of the pi*ocess, but to divide it into\nportions or introduce them by degrees. Such\nprecautions are more necessary for wool and\nsilk than for cotton and lieen, which take up\nmost colors less readily.\nAnother point to be attended to for insuring\nevenness is to begin dyeing at a low tempera-\nture, which is gradually raised to a boil. In\nmany of the dyeing receipts which f ollow this\nprecaution is prescribed as necessary. Some-\ntimes the various dye wares have to be all\nboiled up together in the dye pan at the outset,\nbut in such cases it is mostly necessary to cool\nbefore entering* the goods.\nThe care taken to bring all portions of the lot\nof goods dyed at once to the same shade of\ncolor is greater in case of yarns than of loose\nunspun wool and cotton wool. Any Little ir-\nregularity of depth in the latter disappears\nwhen the fibers are mixed and worked up to-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0155.jp2"},"154":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n142\nDyeing.\ngether in the mechanical operations to which\nthey are next submitted. To such an extent is\nthis the case that gray woolen yarns are often\nproduced by scribbling up together undyed\nwool with a certain proportion of black and of\ndeep vat blue wool and then spinning the mix-\nture. In piece goods the necessity for perfect\nevenness is the greatest, since if an error is\nonce made it cannot disappear in any subse-\nquent operation.\nAs the process of dyeing a lot of goods goes\non, little bits of the yarn or small swatches\nfrom the end of the piece are from time to time\ncut off and compared with the pattern. In case\nof piece goods, it is often more convenient to\nfasten loosely to the end or side of the piece\nsome small swatches of the same kind of ma-\nterial for the purpose of examination. In com-\nparing such trial bits with the pattern, the dyer\nshould have the advantage of a north light—\nthe direct rays of the sun being deceptive in\ncomparing colors. He will notice whether the\nshade is hit, or whether a more prolonged work-\ning or the addition of a trifle more of any of\nthe dye wares is needful. It must be remem-\nbered that no two samples of dye wares can be\nfound exactly equal in strength, and that the\nappetite for color, if it may be so expressed, of\nwools and cottons of different growths and dif-\nferent seasons varies, so that the use of a fixed\nproportion of ware to a given weight of goods\nwill not always give exactly the same shade.\nHence constant watchfulness is needed.\nIn comparing the trial bit with the pattern,\nthey are generally first placed side by side be-\nlow the eye, and looked down upon, thus judg-\ning by reflected light. They are next compared\nover hand, 1 i. e., they are held up to the light,\nand the eye is directed along the surface, thus\ncatching the light transmitted through a por-\ntion of the fiber. A judgment must be formed\nquickly, as a prolonged gaze at bright colors, e.\nmagenta, eosine, cochineal scarlet, etc.,\nfatigues the eye and renders it unable to per-\nceive nice grades of difference.\nWhen the exact shade has been hit, the fur-\nther treatment of the goods varies. In most\ncases rinsing in water is required, sometimes at\nonce at other times not till the goods have had\ntimetocool. With some particular colors rins-\ning is not admissible at all.\nIntermediate rinsings, in the course of a dry-\ning process, are often required, e. g., after the\ngoods have been mordanted, before entering\nthem in the color bath, the object being not to\nintroduce into the latter any mordant, etc.,\nwhich has not become attached to the fiber, but\nis merely held in a loose state between the\nthreads.\nIt is sometimes necessary before adding either\nmordants or dye wares to the water to be used\nin a dyeing process to clear it, by letting it\nboil up in the beck or pan to be used, with a\nlittle of the mordant to be employed, and care-\nfully skimming off any impurities which rise to\nthe surface. It need scarcely be said that if the\npan is clean and the water pure, no such im-\npurities can collect and the process is needless.\nAfter rinsing follows the final operation, dry-\ning. This is generally performed in a room\nwell ventilated, not too copiously lighted, and\nheated by means of steam pipes. Safflower\nshades should be dried in the dark, and without\nany rise of temperature, in a current of cold\nair.\nWhere the air is free from smoke, acid fumes,\netc., many colors may, in favorable weather,\nbe dried in the open air. This is very generally\ndone^with vat blues, cochineal scarlets, etc.— C.\nSpecific gravity— a very important considera-\ntion for acids, dilutions of mordants, extracts\nof dye wares, etc. is expressed in this book\nin Twaddell s scale, as commonly used in manu-\nfacturing establishments. On this scale the\nspecific gravity of water 0. It is readily con-\nverted into direct specific gravity by the fol-\nlowing simple calculation. To convert Twad-\ndell into direct specific gravity, multiply by 5,\nconsidering the product as decimals, and add to\nit 1*000. Thus if a sample of oil of vitriol marks\n168° Tw., we have—\n168\n5\n0*84.0\n1-000\n1*840 the direct specific gravity.\nOn the other hand, if the strength of a liquid\nhas been taken by direct specific gravity, we\nfind the corresponding degree Twaddell by sub-\ntracting TOGO, and dividing the remainder by 5.\nThus, if the direct specific gravity of a sam-\nple of muriatic acid be 1*160, then—\n1*160\n1*000\n5)160\n32°, the degree Twaddell.\nBaume s scale, persistently used on the Con-\ntinent, cannot be recommended, as it bears no\nsimple relation either to direct specific gravity\nor to Twaddell.\nFor indicating degrees of heat the ordinary\nscale— Fahrenheit s— has been used.— C.\nMordants.— 1. Alum Mordants.— Of these com-\npounds the best known and oldest is common\nalum, which exists under two distinct forms,\npotash alum and ammonia alum. The former\nof these is a double sulphate of alumina and\npotash, containing 10 per cent, of alumina, 33\nper cent, of sulphuric acid, and 45 per cent, of\nwater. Three-fourths of the water is driven\noff at the heat of 140° F. One part of alum, at\n54° F., dissolves in thirteen times its weight of\nwater, in twice its weight at 122° F., and at 189°\nF. in less than one-tenth of its own weight.\nThe most important of the aluminous mor-\ndants for the cotton dyer and tissue printer is\nthe acetate of alumina, known also as pyrolig-\nnite of alumina, red mordant, and especially as\nred liquor.\nThe following receipts are given by D.\nKochelin\nNo. 1. No. 2. No. 3. No. 4.\nWater (gallons). ..45 45 45 45\nAlum (lb.) 100 100 200 190\nSugar of, lead (lb.).. 100 129 200 190\nSoda crystals (lb.).. 10 10 10 19\nThe way of mixing is as follows the alum is\nbroken up and dissolved in the water at 140° F\nthe soda crystals are next added and stirred till\ndissolved, and the sugar of lead is then added in\na coarse powder and stirred for a long time, re-\npeating the stirring from time to time during\ntwo or three days. Of these mordants Nos. 1\nand 2 are for calico, No. 1 being less suitable for\ngum colors than No. 2. Nos. 3 and 4 are suit-\nable for muslin.\nThe two following red liquors are made from\nacetate of lime:\nAcetate of lime, at 24° Tw. 50 90 gal.\nAlum 200 —lb.\nSulphate of alumina 272 lb.\nGround chalk........... 12 341b.\nTo prepare these liquors the acetate of lime is\nfirst heated to 140° F., the alum or sulphate of\nalumina is then added and stirred till dissolved,\nand the chalk is added by degrees. The mix-\nture is well stirred till nearly cold, let settle,\nthe clear liquid decanted off-, and the sediment\ndrained on a woolen filter.\nThe first of these mixtures gives the deepest\nred in madder work, and the second is for mix-\ning with black liquor to produce chocolates.\nFor a •resist red liquor take— water, lgal.\nalum, 5 1b.; .sugar of lead, 2J4 lb. crystals of\nsoda, 4 lb.\nDissolve the alum and the soda crystals in one\nportion of the water and the sugar of lead in\nthe other. When dissolved mix, let settle, and\ndraw off the clear.— C.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0156.jp2"},"155":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n143\nDyeing.\nMordant, alum, an alum, with one-fourth its\nweight of tartar, acetate of alumina. This is\ncommonly prepared in a solution for the pur-\npose 100 parts of alum, in solution, with 150\nparts of pyrolignite of lime of 20° density, is\nsometimes employed [.not recommended].\nA solution of alum with crystallized carbonate\nof soda, in the proportion of 1 oz. to each lb. of\nalum.\nThis is a solution of alum with sufficient\nstrong solution of caustic potash to redissolve\nthe precipitated alumina, to which mixture a\nportion of linseed oil is added.\nTo 50 gal. of boiling water add 100 lb. of alum;\ndissolve, and add slowly 10 lb. of crystallized\ncarbonate of soda. When the effervescence is\nover, add 75 lb. of sugar of lead.\nAntimony Mordants.— The double tartrate of\nantimony and potash, commonly known as tar-\ntar emetic, is used to some extent in fixing the\naniline colors in conjunction with tannin. Its\nprice and its evil reputation as a poison are dif-\nficulties in the way of its more extended use.\nA cheaper compound lately used in dyeing is\nthe oxymuriate (not oxychloride), or mu-\nriate of antimonic oxide, made by dissolving\nthe black sulphuret of antimony in strong boil-\ning muriatic acid. It gives bad results if, as is\nfrequently the case, it is contaminated with\niron.\nThe behavior of antimony with coloring\nmatters has not yet been sufficiently studied.\nArsenical Mordants.— Arsenic in many cases\nplays the part of an alterant rather than of a\nmordant. Arsenite of soda, along with red\nliquor, is very frequently used in printing\naniline colors upon cotton. The result of the\nreaction is the production of an insoluble\narsenite of alumina which attaches itself to the\nfiber, and in which the coloring matter is en-\ntangled.\nChromium Mordants.- Chromium yields two\ndistinct classes of mordants, both of extensive\nuse. In the state of chromic acid, combined\nwith potash or with soda, it plays a very im-\nportant part along with the woods in dyeing\nblacks, browns, bottle greens, olives and a\nvariety of sad colors. There are two chromates\nof potash, the bichromate, red chromate, bi-\nchrome, and sometimes merely chrome, being\nthe most generally employed.\nCopper Mordants.— Acetate of copper, com-\nmonly known as verdigris, is met with of differ-\nent kinds, the principal of which are the blue\nand the green. Both these compounds, are or\nwere chiefly imported from the south of France.\nVerdigris, however, is very commonly made in\nthe liquid state by a process very similar to\nthe preparation of red liquor. In, e. gr., a gal.\nof water at about 160° F., 4 lb. of bluestone\nand 4 lb. sugar of lead are dissolved with fre-\nquent stirring. When this is completed the\nliquid is left to settle and the clear is decanted\noff for use.\nVerdigris is used in printing and dyeing\nblacks on silks and on hats in logwood blues\non woolens in catechu colors, where it acts as\nan oxidizing agent, in resists for dip blues,\nand in certain steam colors.\nIron Mordants.— The compounds of iron play\na very important part in dyeing and printing\nprocesses, chiefly for the production of the\ndarker and sadder shades— blacks, browns,\nolives, chocolates, curtain blues, and violets,\netc. They are much better applicable to cot-\nton and silk than to wool,\nThe iron compound most commonly used in\nprinting is the acetate or pyrolignite, known\nmore generally as black liquor, iron liquor, or\nsometimes confusingly as black iron.\nBlack liquor as commonly met with in com-\nmerce has a specific gravity ranging from 18°\nTw. to 28° Tw„ It has an olive color, a peculiar\ntar-like smell, and an inky taste. It is some-\ntimes made by mixing together solutions of\nthe acetate of lime, or of brown sugar of lead,\nand of copperas, and after letting the mixture\nstand to settle, drawing off the clear for use.\nA persulphate of iron (ferric sulphate) or red\nsulphate is sometimes employed. It is generally\nmade by adding to a solution of copperas half as\nmuch sulphuric acid as it already contains, i. e.,\n18# oil of vitriol, and heating the mixture,\nadding from time to time small quantities of\nnitric acid to peroxidize the iron.\nIt forms a pale yellow solution.\nBlack Mordant.— A mixture of bichromate of\npotash with refuse saline matter, and with\nsome boneblack of low quality, ground to a\nfine powder.\nI- or pale blue upon silks, or for blues which\nhave to be converted into greens, many dyers\nprefer a blue iron made from the metal in the\nfollowing manner\nDouble aquafortis, 64° Tw., is let down with\nwater to half strength. A quantity of this is\nput in a stoneware bowl, and clippings of clean\nsheet iron are added so long as they dissolve\nrapidly with the escape of reddish vapors. The\nfinished product should stand at about 43° or\n44° Tw.\nIf iron is still added after the escape of\norange vapors has ceased, the product will be\nmainly a yellowish mud, of no use in dyeing.\nIron filings or turnings and rusty or greasy\niron must not be used.\nFor deeper and richer shades of blue, either\nof the two following blue irons may be taken\na. Nitrate of soda, refined, 24 lb.; oil of\nvitriol, 20 lb.; water, 15 gal. Scrap iron as re-\nquired.\nb. Nitrate of soda, 16 lb.; oil of vitriol, 20 lb.;\ncold water, 13 gal. Scrap iron as required.\nIn either case the nitrate of soda is first dis-\nsolved in the water, and the oil of vitriol and\nthe iron are added by degrees. A brisk action\nmust be kept up, but the heat should not be let\nbecome excessive. These preparations should\nnot be made in very large quanties at a time, as\nthey do not keep well. Tne nitrate of soda\nused should be free from common salt— chlo-\nride of sodium.— C.\nTin Mordants.— No mordants are more im-\nportant or more widely used than those prepared\nfrom tin. We have in the first place those con-\ntaining tin in its lowest stage of oxidation, or as\na corresponding chlorine compound. Of these\npreparations, the most important is the solid,\nprotochloride or muriate, more correctly named\nstannous chloride, but known in the trade as\ntin crystals, and sometimes tin salts. This sub-\nstance is made on the large scale by dissolving\ngranulated tin of the best quality in muriatic\nacid, which should be free from iron, arsenic,\nsulphuric and sulphurous acid, and other im-\npurities. Heat is applied to the mixture, and\nwhen the acid is saturated the liquid is run\noff and allowed to crystallize. The crystals\nform fine needle-like particles, white, and of a\nsilky luster. They attract moisture from the\nair, and should thei ef ore be kept in a dry place.\nThe following are examples of some of the most\ngenerally used tin mordants Purple, plum, or\npuce spirit; muriate of tin, 70° Tw., 2 gal.; let\ndown oil of vitriol with water till the mixture\nmarks 28° Tw., and when cold add 1 gal. Stir\nwell together.\nOxalateof Tin, sometimes named Ox Tin.\nA true oxalate of tin is not known in trade,\nbut the name is given to mixtures of muriate\nof tin with sulphuric acid and oxalic acid, or\noxalate of potash. A preparation of this kind\nmay be made from the plum spirit above men-\ntioned by adding 1 oz. oxalic acid, first dissolved\nin hot water, per gal. These preparations are\nexclusively used in wool dyeing.— C.\nScarlet Spirit.— For cochineal and lac scarlets\nupon woolen and worsted goods the following\nis one of the many preparations which have\nbeen in successful use. Some dyers apply it at\nonce along with the cochineal or lac, etc., while\nothers first ground with another prepara-\ntion to be mentioned below (bowl spirits), and","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0157.jp2"},"156":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n144\nDyeing.\nmerely top, raise, or finish with the following\nspirit: Muriate of tin, at 54° Tw., 3 qt. oxalic\nacid, M lb.; previously dissolved in hot water\nenough to reduce the whole to 40° Tw.— C.\nYellow and Orange Spirit.— Double muriate\nof tin, at 80° Tw., 59 oz.; oil of vitriol, 21b.;\nwater, 2 lb. Mix and let cool before adding to\nthe double muriate.— C.\nMordants of the perchloride of tin, however\nprepared, are used principally in cotton and\nsilk dyeing, their applications in woolen dye-\ning being much less numerous. Formulas for\npreparing some of the principal of these spirits\nare here given\nCrimson Cotton Spirits.— Muriatic acid, at 33°\nTw., 7 gal.; aquafortis, at 64° Tw., 1 gal.; water,\n1 gal.\nPut the liquids in a stoneware, jar-shaped\npan with upright sides, rather narrower at bot-\ntom than at top. Pour in the water first, then\nthe muriatic acid, and lastly the nitric acid— an\narrangement which facilitates perfect mixture.\nStir well with a glass or stoneware rod, and let\nstand for about ten minutes.\nMeantime weigh out 6 lb. of grain bar tin,\nwhich is not to be feathered or granulated as in\nmaking tin crystals or double muriate. Put in\nabout six rods in an upright position, arranging\nthem at equal distances around the sides of the\nvessel. As these dissolve, the remainder of the\nrods must be gradually added. If the weather\nis hot, the number of rods entered at first may\nbe reduced to four or five, while in winter as\nmany as eight or nine can be put in at once.\nNo artificial heat must be applied, and the\nliquid must never be stirred while working. If,\nhowever, the action grows too strong, one or\nmore rods may be quietly withdrawn and re-\nturned when the heat ha s somewhat subsided.\nThis is not difficult, as with the proportions\nabove given the ends of the rods will project a\nlittle above the surface of the liquid.\nIf working rightly, the surface of the liquid\nwill show a very slight creamy froth, but if\nlarge bubbles form and throw off orange col-\nored fumes, the heat is too great and firing\nis at hand. The process lasts from eight to ten\nhours, according to the weather, when com-\nplete the liquid should be clear, without any\nsediment, and of a very pale straw color. If it\nis perfectly colorless, then, except absolutely\npure muriatic acid has been used which is\ncommercially impracticable— a portion of the\ntin is still in the state of a protochloride. On\nstanding for a day or two the straw color ap-\npears, beginning at the surface.\nAs a means of regulating the action according\nto the temperature, the water may be reduced\nin quantity, and in very severe weather may\nbe omitted altogether. In such cases the\nusual proportion of water is added to the fin-\nished product, so that the strength may be un-\naltered.\nThis mordant is used for dyeing wood reds,\ncrimsons, etc., on the cotton warps of mixed\ngoods, and serves for a great variety of colors\nupon cotton yarns.\n1. Red Cotton Spirits.— Muriatic acid, 32° Tw.,\n6 gal. aquafortis, 64° Tw., 1 gal. water, 1 gal.;\ntin, 6 lb. Dissolve as above. Recommended for\nbrown and claret warps of mixed piece goods.\n2. Red Cotton Spirit.— Muriatic acid, 32° Tw.,\n6 gal.; aquafortis, 64°, Tw., 2 gal.; tin, 101b.\nGreat care is here required in working to pre-\nvent firing.— C.\n3. Red Cotton Spirit.— Muriatic acid, 35° Tw.,\n8}4 gal.; aquafortis 64° Tw., 1% gal. Tin suffi-\ncient to bring up the specific gravity to 54° Tw,\nWhen the tin is dissolved, add 1 oz. bichromate\nof potash.— C.\nBarwood Spirit.— Muriatic acid, 32° Tw., 5\ngal.; aquafortis, 64° Tw.,1 gal.; tin, 1 oz. per lb.\nof the mixed, or about 51b. Dissolve as above.\nThis spirit is used in dyeing barwood reds— C.\nPlum Spirit.— Muriatic acid, 32 Tw, 6 gal.;\naquafortis, 64 Tw., 1 gal.; tin, V/o, oz. per lb. of\nthe mixed acids, or about 8^ lb. C.\nSolution is a name given in certain dis-\ntricts to preparations much resembling the\nred cotton spirits, and used for similar pur-\nposes.\nSolution No. 1.— Muriatic acid, 32 Tw., 6 gal.;\naquafortis, 64° Tw., 1^ gal.; water, 1 gal.; tin,\n7 lb. Work with the same precautions. This\nspirit serves for cotton dyeing mixed clarets,\nbrowns, etc.— C.\nSolution No. 2.— Muriatic acid, 32° Tw., 6 gal.;\naquafortis (single), 32° Tw., 3 gal.; tin, 10i| lb.\nThis solution requires very careful working,\nand when well made has been serviceable for\nfixing various aniline colors upon cotton.— C.\nPurple Cotton Spirit.— Muriatic acid, 32 Tw.,\n5 lb.; aquafortis, 64 Tw., 1 lb., tin, lb. To\nevery 9 gal. of the solution add 2 oz. bichro-\nmate of potash, dissolved in water.— C.\nThe following compounds, generally known\nas oxy muriates, are used in printing: 1.\nMuriatic acid, 32 Tw., 20 lb.; water, 2 gal.; sal\nammoniac, 5 lb.; tin, 10 lb.— C.\n2. Dissolve 16 lb. tin crystals in a stoneware\nbowl, set in a larger vessel of hot water. Add\nvery gradually 20 lb. aquafortis, 64° Tw.— C.\n3. To 60 lb. tin crystals, add 1 qt. water, and\nheat in a water or steam bath till dissolved.\nAdd 92 lb. aquafortis at 60° F. by portions, tak-\ning care that the action does not become too-\nviolent.— C.\n4. Muiiatic acid, 34 Tw., 11 lb. aquafortis,\n62 Tw., 5 lb. Dissolve in the mixture 2 lb. of\nfeathered tin. This preparation is frequently\nused in spirit styles. The oxymuriate, 2, is\nployed in cutting madder pinks, that is, for\nreducing the reds in the clearing process down\nto the bright shade required. C.\nPink Salt, the double chloride of tin and am»\nmonium, is prepared by mixing saturated solu-\ntions of sal ammoniac and of perchloride of tin\n(stannic chloride), when the pink salt falls to\nthe bottom of the vessel as a white powdery\nprecipitate; it should contain 70 per cent, of the\nperchloride of tin and 30 per cent, of sal\nammoniac. It dissolves in three times its own\nweight of water at 60° F., and if boiled in a\nweak solution it is decomposed and the whole\nof the tin is deposited. Pink salt is valuable\nas a solvent for organic coloring matters, and\nthough at present neglected, will doubtless\nreceive important applications in the future.\nC.\nAniline Spirit, so called from its uses, is\nmade with single aquafortis, 32° Tw., 5 gal.;\nmuriatic acid, 32° Tw., 2}4 gal.; tin, in the rod,\n12 lb. The acids are mixed and about 12 bars of\ntin are entered at once, working as directed for\nred cotton spirits till all is taken up. This\nspirit is of a deep reddish amber, and contains\nabout 2 oz. tin per lb. of acid. It is very use-\nful in cotton dyeing. C.\nMordant, a Protochloride of Tin.— 1. To strong\nmuriatic acid add gradually small pieces of\ngrain tin till no more is dissolved. It may be\nobtained in crystals by evaporation. In dis-\nsolving them, it is necessary to add to the water\na few drops of muriatic acid.\n2. Perchloride of Tin.— Mix 1 measure of\nnitric acid with 4 measures of muriatic acid,\nand add tin in small quantities as long as any is\ndissolved. Or mix 4 oz. of muriatic with 1 oz.\nof nitric acid and 1 oz. water; dissolve in it, by\nsmall portions at a time, 2 drm. of grain tin.\n3. Aquafortis (or equal portions of nitric acid\nand water), 8 parts; sal ammoniac, 1 part; mix,\nand add gradually 1 part, or as much as it will\ndissolve, of grain tin.\n4. Dr. Bancroft s.— Digest 2 parts of tin with\n3 parts of strong muriatic acid for an hour. Add\nvery cautiously part of sulphuric acid.\nKeep up the heat as long as hydrogen is\nevolved; on cooling, it crystallizes. Dissolve\nthis in salt and water, so as to form a solution\ncontaining 1 part of tin in 8.\n5. New Tin Crystals.— Add 3 lb. of sal am-\nmoniac to 1 gal. of solution of tin; evaporate\nand crystallize.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0158.jp2"},"157":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n145\nDyeing.\n6. Mordant for Lac Dye.— Mix 27 lb. of muri-\natic acid with V/% lb. of nitric acid (sp. gr. 1 19),\nput it into a stone bottle, and add tin in small\nbits, till 4 lb. are dissolved.\n7. Stannate of Soda.— Digest litharge, 36 parts,\nor minium, 27 parts, in a metallic vessel, with a\nsoda lye of \\-ffa density; when dissolved, 8 parts\nof tin in grains are gradually added. The lead\nseparates at once in a spongy state, and the\nsolution of stannate of soda may be decanted.\n8. Lac Spirit.— Used as a solvent for lac dye,\nin preference to muriatic acid alone, is thus\nmade. Add gradually 3 lb. of tin to 60 lb. muri-\natic acid. Digest lb. of this solvent on each\npound of the dye for six hours. Plum or puce\nspirit, peach spirit, and grain or scarlet spirit,\nare names given by dyers to different solu-\ntions of tin employed in dyeing these colors.\nFor scarlet, the nitro-muriatic solutions (Nos.\n2 and 3, above) are used.\n9. Iron Liquor. Scraps of iron are placed in\ncasks or other vessels, and covered with recti-\nfied raw pyroligneous acid. There are usually\na series of vessels, through which the solution\nis successively passed till it is f ullv saturated.\nRaising Agents.— Both in dyeing and print-\ning, chiefly as regards madder work in the lat-\nter, after the color has been fixed on the fiber\nor tissue, it is submitted to a final process\nknown as raising, blooming, brightening\n(French avivage, German schoenen). This is ef-\nfected in very different manners, according to\nthe nature of the case. Sometimes the goods\nare taken through a weak acid, or a weak solu-\ntion of a tin mordant. Sometimes, again, as in\nthe case of madder work with the root, succes-\nsive soapings are applied. In many cases a\n.small quantity of a brighter and more beauti-\nful, though often less fast, color is either added\nto the dye beck toward the close of the opera-\ntion or the goods are passed through it in a\nseparate bath. The process is then generally\nknown as topping, and is effected by means\nof magenta, saff ranine, the aniline violets, the\norchil colors, etc., applied upon a ground got\nup with the woods, etc. Goods thus topped\nvery frequently lose their beauty after a short\nexposure to air and sunshine.\nLeveling Agents.— It is sometimes necessary\nto add to the dye beck a body which, instead of\npromoting the adhesion of the dye to the fiber,\nhas the very opposite effect. There are certain\ncolors which combine so eagerly with the\ngoods to be dyed, that it is difficult to get an\neven shade, the portions first immersed into\nthe dye liquid taking up more than their share.\nThis is particularly the case in dying wool with\ncertain of the aniline colors. To prevent this\ninconvenience, and to cause the color to be\nevenly distributed over the whole surface to\nbe dyed, a quantity of the crystallized sul-\nphate of soda, otherwise known as Glauber s\nsalt, and in many dye houses as Sally Nixon— a\ncorruption for sal enixum— is added. This\nsalt diminishes the affinity of the color for the\nfiber, so that it is deposited slowly and evenly.\nMany other neutral salts would have the same\neffect but the sulphate of soda is preferred\nas being cheap, readily procurable, and having\nlittle action upon the tone of the dye wares.\nUpon certain colors, e. g., those of the woods,\nit acts as a feeble alkali.\nBristles, to Dye.— Steep them for a short time\nin any of the common dyes used for cotton or\nwool.\nCotton Dyeing.— The affinity of cotton for\ncoloring matters is generally feebler than that\nof silk or woolen. Few dye wares play, with it,\nthe part of substantive colors, i. e., attach\nthemselves to it without a mordant, safflower\nred and reduced indigo (in the vat) being the*\nbest known exceptions. Cotton bears contact\nwith alkalies much better than silk or wool,\nand is in return much more readily injured by\nstrong acid solutions. Hence it can be dyed by\nthe help of the stannates, plumbates and alum-\ninates of soda. Containing no sulphur, there is\nno fear of its blackening preparations of lead,\ntin, etc. It easily takes oxides of iron, man-\nganese, etc., from their solutions and can thus\nbe dyed a variety of shades, as browns, bronzes,\nbuffs, blacks (by treatment with iron and a\nsubsequent passage through an astringent,\netc.), Prussian blues, copper bluish greens, lead\nyellows and oranges. On the other hand, cer-\ntain organic colors, such as picric acid, the\nweed products, i. e., orchil and cudbear, cannot\nbe worked upon cotton without the aid of ani-\nmal mordants. The aniline colors are fixed upon\ncotton by means of tannin, alizarine oil and\nthe mixed, mordant of acetate of alumina and\narsenite of soda. Aniline black, however, gives\nmuch more satisfactory results upon cottons\nthan upon woolens. In cotton dyeing the\ngoods are worked in the mordant, as a rule,\nfirst, before being immersed in the dye liquids.\nCotton is also generally dyed at lower tempera-\ntures than wool often at about 90° to 100° F.,\nand very frequently in the cold. C.\nBenzo-purpurine, 4 B., on 100 lb. of un-\nbleached cotton yarn. Start dye kettle with 4\nlb. benzo-purpurine, 4 B.; 25 lb. Glauber s salt,\n2 lb. sal soda. Enter yarn at boil and boil for\none hour while turning. Lift out, wring and\ndry. For standing kettles use y less color.\nBenzo-purpurine, 10 B., on 10 pieces cotton\nflannel, each piece weighing 10 lb. Prepare dye\nkettle with 3 lb. benzo-purpurine, 10 B.; 4 lb.\nsoap, 1 lb. sal soda. Enter goods at boil and\nrun for one hour at that heat. Lift out and\nrinse off.\nAniline Black on Cotton Tarn (100 lb.).— Mix\n6 lb. 9 oz. aniline oil with 8% lb. muriatic acid\nat 32° Tw. Let cool and add the solution of 4\nlb. 6 oz. chlorate of potash in 66 parts of water.\nThen add 43% pt. of chloride of iron at 30° Tw.\nThe yarns, previously bleached, are placed for\n8 to 10 hours in this mixture, which must be\npreviously let down with a sufficient quantity\nof water at about 100° F. Lift and place the\nyarns in soda solution at 21° Tw. for half an\nhour to neutralize the excess of acid. Wash\nand steep for half an hour in 33 qt. of water\nand 7 oz. chromate of potash at about 112° F.\nThis beck gives the dye more permanence and\nprevents greening. Wash and work in the\nfollowing mixture Alizarine oil, 17J^ oz.; pot-\nash, 2 lb. 3 oz.; water, 33 qt. Dry at once. This\nprocess may be used for linen, hemp, jute or\nsilk, as well as for cotton, whether in yarns or\npieces.— C.\nAnother Aniline Black.— For each pound of\ncotton yarn take 3J of bluestone dissolved in\nwater, made very feebly acid with muriatic\nacid. Give seven turns and wring well. Dis-\nsolve y% lb. hyposulphite of soda per gal. water\nat 120° F., 5 turns and wash well. Dye cold in\nchlorate of potash, 3 oz.; sal ammoniac, 3 oz.;\nmuriate of aniline y% lb., in sufficient water,\nseven turns quickly and wring well. Hang up\neven at 77° F. for forty-eight hours and raise to\n84° F. Take through either bichromate or weak\nsoda lye and wash well. If reddish when dry,\ntake through a very weak chloride of lime\nwater.— C.\nAnother Black (220 lb.).— Boil for three hours\nwith 88 lb. extract of logwood lift, wring and\ndry. Dissolve in cold water 33 lb. chromate\nof potash and 17V£ lb. bluestone; enter and\nturn for an hour. Lift and return to the log-\nwood beck at 140° F., after having previously\nadded Yl% lb. soda ash. Work for two hours,\n•and sadden with 11 lb. copperas.— C.\nBlue Black for Sewing Cotton.— Boil the yarn\nand ground with sumac mordant, wring out,\nand run through black liquor at 2° Tw. Raise\nwith clear lime water, and wash in cold water.\nSadden with logwood liquor and copperas in\nthe same liquor, and it is then ready tor sizing\nand polishing.— C.\nGood Black (60 lb.).— Boil 12 lb. cutch with\nV/i lb. bluestone put the yarn down in this\nall night work in the morning in a clear lime\nwater then add 6 qt. black liquor to a cold","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0159.jp2"},"158":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n146\nDyeing.\nwater, give four turns in this work again in\nclear lime water, and wring up. Boil 30 lb.\nground logwood and 6 lb. fustic add the de-\ncoction to a hot water, work yarns six turns,\nlift, and add 1 qt. black liquor, and wash off\nwith the addition of a little oil and soda ash, if\nwanted soft. Into the logwood water are now\nput 10J4 oz. soda ash; enter, give ten turns,\nlift, and add 3J*£ oz. copperas five turns more,\nand the dyeing is complete. It is well to leave\nthe yarn in a heap for six hours after the\nlogwood bath before passing into the lime\nwater.— C.\nFast Black (100 lb.).— Dissolve 241b. extract of\nlogwood in a hot water add Vy lb. bluestone\nenter the yarn, give a few turns, and wash.\nAdd to a fresh cold water 2 lb. bichromate of pot-\nash and V/% lb. nitrate of iron. Take the yarns\nthrough this and back again to the first water,\nto which have been meantime added 2 lb. soda\ncrystals and the same weight of olive oil.\nBlack on Cotton Wool, to stand Fulling (60\nlb.).— Extract of logwood, 14 lb.; extract of\nbark, 1)4 lb.; bluestone, 4 lb. Dissolve at a\nboil enter the cotton wool, boil for V/% hours,\nand let stop in the liquid overnight. Lift, let\nlie in heaps for two days enter in a cold water\ncontaining copperas, 8 lb.; lixiviated chalk, 2\nlb. Take out after two hours, let lie a day or\ntwo, rinse and raise at a hand heat with oil and\nsoap.— C.\nBlack (11 lb.).— Dissolve in a water 1 lb. 1}4 oz.\nsolid extract of logwood and 1% oz. extract of\nbark. Boil the yarn in this liquid till thor-\noughly saturated. Lift, wring, and enter in a\nfresh water with 7 oz. quicklime. Five turns,\nwring and enter in a water with 1 lb. 1*4 oz.\ncopperas; ten turns and lift.— C.\nTete de Negre.— For 100 lb. bleached cotton,\n5 lb. catechu 2 lb. alum 1 lb. blue vitriol\n2 lb. bichromate. Work as in yellow cannelle.\nFinish with 40 lb. red sanders and one tumbler\nof pyrolignite of iron for each 25 lb. cotton.\nAnother Black (60 lb.)— Boil 12 lb. sumac;\nsteep yarns overnight with the decoction, and\nwork as in the last receipt. If a bluer shade is\nWanted, omit the first lime water. C.\nLogwood Black (60 lb.)— Boil 5 lb. logwood\nextract and V/% lb. bluestone; put down yarns\nin this all night, and work the next morning\nin 6 qt. black liquor in cold water Work in a\nclear lime water and wring. Then boil 5 lb.\nlogwood extract, J4 lb. fustic extract, and add\nto a hot water, work yarns for half an hour,\nlift, and add 2 lb. copperas; wash and dry.— C.\nAnother Black (60 lb.)— Boil 6 lb. logwood ex-\ntract, y% lb. fustic extract, and add to a boiling\nwater; work yarns for an hour, lift and wring.\nDissolve 1 lb. chrome (bichromate of potash)\nand 1 lb. bluestone, add to a cold water, give\nfour turns, let off and wring; add 2 lb. soda\ncrystals to the logwood liquor, give four turns,\nlift; add 3 lb. copperas, four turns more, wash\nand dry. C.\nCommon Black (60 lb.)— Work in lime water\nand wring, then with 6 qt. black liquor in a\ncold water and wring. Lime again in a clear\nlime water; boil 24 lb. ground logwood, add the\ndecoction to a hot water, work five turns, lift,\nand add 2 lb. copperas; five turns more; wash\nand dry.— C.\nBlack for Sewing Thread (55 lb.)— Boil out 11\nlb. sumac in water. Steep for a night in the\nboiling liquid; lift, work an hour in black\nliquor at 14° Tw. Lift and hang out five or six\nhours. Make up a fresh cold water with 17 oz.\nlime and 8% oz. chromate potash, and work\nthe thread till it is of a level brown color.\nRinse and dye at 190° F. with 16 lb. 5 oz. log-\nwood, working for fifteen minutes. Rinse.\nC.\nFast Blue Black on Cloth or Yarn.— Give a\nground in the vat, take through vitriol sours,\nand wash well in cold water. Work the goods\nin sumac, and then pass into a water with 4\nqt. copperas liquor at 10° Tw. Wring and raise\nwith lime water or bichromate of potash, wash\nand enter into a logwood bath at 160° F., add\nqt. copperas water at 10° Tw., and run through\nagain. Wash, and then repeat the process with\nthe logwood and copperas. If not blue enough,\nadd a little bluestone along with the copperas.\nPiece goods require three or four turns, and\nyarn five or six turns in every operation.— C.\nBlue Black.— Blue black on 10 pieces cotton\nflannel, each piece weighing 6 lb. 1. Run for\nthree-quarters of an hour in a bath of 16 lb.\nextrac sumac, and wring.\n2. Run for thirty minutes through a cold bath\nof 6 qt. nitrate of iron, and wash off.\n3. Hun for thirty minutes through a hot bath\nof 15 lb. extract of logwood, 51°.\n4. Run for thirty minutes through a cold bath\nof 21b. copperas, and rinse off.\nCommon Black.— 5 pieces 75 lb. are padded\nthrough acetate of iron (iron liquor) at 8° Twad-\ndell, dried, and afterward passed through lime\nwater (milk of lime) afterward washed, then\ndyed with 35 lb. ground logwood and3 lb. fustic\nextract at 48° Tw. in this they are worked\nfor half an hour at boil; then winched, rinsed,\nand dried. They are further run through a.\nlittle starch water containing a small quantity\nof soap, and then dried for finishing.— G.\nGood Common Black (Carlisle Finish).— 7\npieces 85 lb. are worked in the jigger, cold\nfor 6 ends, and afterward passed through a\nwater mangle to squeeze out a large portion of\nthe liquor; then dried; they are then padded\nin acetate of iron at 8° Twaddell, and dried out\nof it: afterward again entered into the jigger,\nwhich is charged with sufficient water and 5 lb.\nchalk (carbonate of lime) give two ends then\nwash, and afterward dye with 48 lb. ground\nlogwood and 3^ lb. fustic extract at 48° Twad-\ndell work in the jigger for forty-five minutes\nat boil wash and dry.\nChrome Black (Italian Black).— 6 pieces satin\n(cotton) 108 lb. Work in jigger containing 2o\nlb. sumac (Palermo), and 20 lb. myrobolans, in\nas little water as possible, and at boil for 7 to 8\nends then run off the liquor and recharge the\njigger with 15 gal. water and 5 lb. sulphate of\ncopper, cold: give 4 ends in this; again wash\nweD, and recharge the jigger with bichromate\nof potash at say 2° Twaddell; give 2 ends cold,\nand then 3 ends at boil, again wash, and after-\nward dye in the jigger, it being recharged\nwith 72 lb. ground logwood and 4J^ lb. fustic\nextract at 48° Twaddell; work backward and\nforward at boil for one hour then rinse in a\nweak solution of soda or potash, say 8 oz. to 20\ngal. water; wash and dry.— G.\nBlack.— 1. The goods, previously dyed blue, are\nsteeped for about twenty-four hours in a de-\ncoction of gall nuts or sumac, then drained,\nrinsed in water, and passed through a bath of\nacetate of iron for a quarter of an hour they\nare next again rinsed in water, and exposed for\nsome time to the air; after which they are\npassed a second time through the bath, to which\na little more iron liquor is previously added.\nThe whole process is repeated, if necessary,\naccording to the intensity of the shade of black\ndesired.\n2. The goods are steeped in a mordant of ace-\ntate of iron, worked well, and then passed\nthrough a bath of madder and logwood for two\nhours. Less permanent than No 1. About 2\noz. coarsely powdered galls, or 4 oz. sumac, are\nrequired for every lb. cotton, in the process of\ngalling. The first should be boiled in the water,\nin the proportion of about gal. water to every\n1 lb. cotton. The sumac bath is better made\nby mere infusion of that dye stuff in very hot\nwater.\n3. For 10 lb. Cloth.— The goods are put into a\nboiling bath made of 3 lb. sumac, and allowed\nto steep, with occasional working, until the\nliquor is perfectly cold; they are next passed\nthrough lime water, and, after having drained\nfor a few minutes, immediately transferred to,\nand worked for an hour, in a warm solution\nof 2 lb. copperas after free exposure to the air","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0160.jp2"},"159":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n147\nDyeing.\nfor about an hour they are again passed through\nlime water, and after draining, worked for\nan hour in a bath made of 3 lb. logwood and 1\nlb. fustic they are then lifted, and 34\nlb. copperas being added, they are returned to\nthe bath, worked well for about half an hour,\nand finished. Good and deep.— G.\nBright and Very Deep Black.— Boil in a water\nsolid extract of logwood, 8 lb., and extract of\nbark. 1 lb., for half an hour. Dissolve in the\nliquid bluestone, 1 lb.; enter in the hot liquid\nand work for an hour; raise to a boil and work\nfor hah 2 an hour longer. Make up another hot\nwater with bichromate of potash, 1 lb., and\ncommon salt, 3 lb.; enter yarns, work well, let\ncool, and wash. The liquid of the last bath\nshould have a brown color, but if it appears\nrather black, a little bluestone must be added.\nC.\nAnother Bright Black, 10 lb. Prepare a\nwater with logwood extract, 1 lb., and fustic\nextract, 5 oz.; boil yarn in this bath for fifteen\nminutes, and let stand overnight. The next\nmorning lift, wring, enter in a water with bi-\nchromate of potash, 34 lb., and bluestone 1*4\nlb.; work for fifteen minutes, lift and wring.\nTo the first, logwood, bath add soda crystals,\n2 oz.; enter and work yarn for half an hour\nlift, wring, and return to the bichrome bath,\nto which 2\\4 oz. copperas have been previously\nadded; wring again, and return to the logwood\nbath for half an hour; lift, wring, and dry\nwithout washing. It is finished brighter by\ntaking once more to the logwood bath, to\nwhich has been previously added a mixture\nmade up of olive oil, 1 oz., water, y% pt., and\nsoda ash, 1 oz., beaten up to an emulsion.— C*\nBlue Black on Cotton Velvets, 10 lb. Work\nin a boiling soda water which when cold would\nmark 2\\i° Tw. Rinse; steep overnight in the\ndecoction of sumac, 2 lb.; lift, drain, and work\nfor fifteen minutes in black liquor at 6% Tw.\nWork for another fifteen minutes in a cold\nwater, with alum, 1 lb., and bluestone 1 lb.;\nrinse and dye at 122° F., with logwood, 2 lb.,\nand bark, y lb., for fifteen to thirty minutes.\nTo soften the goods take them through an\nemulsion of olive oil, lb., and a solution of\npotash, 2J*£ oz. Dry.— C.\nSumac Black, 110 lb.— Prepare with sumac,\n22 lb., overnight, at a boil; enter in a fresh\nwater with copperas, 1534 lb., and precipitated\nchalk, 35 oz. Work cold for an hour, lift, and\nexpose to the air. Make up a fresh water with\nquicklime, 63*6 lb., and work till the goods are an\neven brown all over. Rinse well and dye in a\nfresh water at 167° F. with logwood, 55 lb., and\nbark, 11 lb. Sadden in the same water with\ncopperas, 35 oz. C.\nLight Blue on Cotton Wool, 50 lb.— Steep for\nsome hours in the hot clear decoction of sumac,\n8 lb.; lift, drain, and enter in a water at 167° F.\ncontaining the clear solution of Nicholson\nblue, 4 oz. Work for half an hour, lift, add to\nthe not alum, 5 lb., previously dissolved; re-\nenter the cotton wool, and work at 102° F. for\nhalf an hour; drain and dry.— C.\nBlue on Cotton.— Cotton yarn, 100 lb.— Pre-\npare with alum, 8 lb.; tartaric acid, 8 oz.; sal\nsoda, 4 lb.; aniline cotton blue BB, 14 oz. (Lutz\nMovius). Enter hot, turn for twenty min-\nutes, take out, raise temperature to boning,\nre-enter and turn to shade.\nNote.— For second lot of cotton yarn, 100 lb.,\nuse alum, 6 lb.; tartaric acid, 6oz.; sal soda, 3 lb.;\nand blue BB, 10 oz.\nBottger suggests the following process for\ndyeing cotton pure blue Heat a mixture of\nPax-is blue, 137 grn.; tartaric acid, 137 grn.; am-\nmonia water, 34 fl. oz.; and water, 2*4 fl. oz., and\nfilter after cooling. Add to the deep blue fil-\ntrate a solution of caustic soda, until it is de-\ncolorized and after some time assumes a light\nyellow tint. Impregnate the cotton with this\nsolution and pass it (best after allowing it to\ndry) through a warm, very dilute solution of\nsulphuric acid, and it will immediately assume\na beautiful blue color, and needs only to be\nwashed in water. The sulphuric acid may be\nso diluted that it has scarcely a perceptibly sour\ntaste.\nMethylene Blue.— Work in a solution of tan-\nnin, and wring well, take through tartar emetic,\nand wring again. Pass into a soap water, af ter\nwhich it is washed well. Enter in a cold water\nwhich is gradually raised to a boil, while the\ndissolved coloring matter is added by degrees\nIf a greener tone is required, top with baric\nliquor; or, if a redder tone is needed, top with\na reddish aniline blue, or even with methyl\nviolet.— C.\nAniline Blue (soluble in spirit) of the Berlin\nAktien Gesellschaft (11 lb.).— Boil 35 oz. sumac\nor 2,790 grn. tannin in water, filter and dissolve\n1734 oz. curd soap in the clear solution, and\nenter the cotton overnight in the hot liquid.\nWring out and make up a water at 2)4° Tw.,\nwith red liquor, to which the clear solution of\nthe color is added according to the shade. En-\nter the yarn and dye, heating to a boil for some\ntime.\nAniline Blue (100 lb.).— Alum, 81b. tartaric\nacid, 34 lb.; soda ash, 41b.; aniline cotton blue,\n14 oz. Enter hot, turn for twenty minutes,\nlift, raise to a boil, re-enter, and dye to a shade.\n-C.\nBenzyl Blue.— Prepare with sumac or tannic\nacid in the usual way. Dissolve the color in 100\nparts of boiling water, and add the requisite\nquantity to a lukewarm water. C.\nGuernsey Blue (10 lb.)— Prepare with 2 lb.\nsumac; dye at 88° F. with the solution of 2 lb.\nGuernsey blue; lift, add 1 lb. alum, re-enter,\ngive a few more turns, take out and dry.— C.\nBlue Cotton Satin (100 lb.).— Run for an hour\nthrough a hot cistern, made up with 17 oz.\nsumac, 6}4 oz. soap, and the same weight of\nrape oil. Make up a fresh boiling water witu\n534 lb. ground alum and 6J4 oz. Nicholson blue,\nand run through this to shade. For the finish-\ning take, to make up 175 pt., 5 lb. 7 oz. gum\ntragacanth, and dissolve it in water, adding the\nclear solution of 1 oz. Nicholson blue and 534\nlb. alum. Stir into the hot mixture 17 oz.\nstearine and 5 lb. 7 oz. glycerine. Apply hot,\ndry and calender.— C.\nNavy Blue (11 lb.).— Boil 2 lb. 3 oz. logwood,\nand dissolve in the clear, hot decoction 26 oz.\ncurd soap. Steep the yarn in this liquor for two\nhours at 167° F. Lift, add to the same water\n26 oz. copperas, re-enter yarn, and work till the\ncolor is even. Wash in cold water and work in\na fresh water with 17 oz. curd soap for an hour\nat 144° F. Make up a boiling water with 234 oz.\nof an aniline blue soluble in spirit, and 2 lb. 3\noz. red liquor at 14° Tw. Work the yarn in this\nat a boil till the shade is obtained, and rinse.—\nC.\nDyeing and Finishing Blue Cotton^Satins (100\nyd.). Run the goods for an hour through a hot\ncistern made up with 1 lb. 134 oz. sumac, 6*4 oz.\nsoap, and the same weight of rape oil. Make\nup a fresh boiling beck with 534 lb. ground alum\nand 634 oz. Nicholson blue, and run through\nthis to shade. For the finishing, take, to make\nup 175 pt., 5 lb. 7 oz. gum tragacanth, and dis-\nsolve it in water, adding the clear solution of 1\noz. Nicholson blue and 5 lb. 7 oz. alum. Stir\ninto the hot mixture 17J4 oz. stearine and 5 lb.\n7 oz. glycerine. Apply hot, dry and calender.\nDyeing Blue Gray on Gauze.— For 22 lb. stuff,\ntake through a water containing 17 oz. sul-\nphuric acid, and rinse well and then at 176° F.\nthrough a fresh beck of 334 oz. nigrosin and 2\nlb. 3 oz. alum, and dry.\nBlue without Indigo (55 lb.).— Boil with soda,\nrinse and dry. Boil 4 lb. 6 oz. starch in 11 qt.\nwater, and add after cooling chlorate of pot-\nash, 1034 oz.; chloride of copper, 20% oz.; muri-\nate of aniline, 2 lb. 10 oz. 35 oz. of the cotton\nare passed five or six times through 17 fl. oz. of\nthis mixture; another 17 fl. oz. is then added,\nand a second 35 oz. of the cotton passed\nthrough, and so on till all is used up. The co:-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0161.jp2"},"160":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\nUS\nDyeing.\nton is then aged by heating in a stove to 100°\nF., steam being injected from time to time.\nThe starch is then removed by steeping in a\nwater to which 6 lb. 9 oz. malt have been added.\nAfter a day the cotton is rinsed and taken\nthrough weak vitriol sours, and then through\na soda bath at 3° to 4° Tw. A blue black is thus\nobtained, which may be turned more to a blue\nby decreasing the muriate of aniline, chlorate\nof potash and chloride of copper by one-\nthird— C.\nAniline Blue with Manganese Mordant.— Boil\nyarn with soap and soda take through a weak\nsolution of permanganate lift and wring. It\nhas then a pale brown color. Steep in a solu-\ntion of tin crystals at 11° Tw. till it is perfectly\nwhite. Wash and pass into a sumac water, 1 lb.\nsumac to 10 lb. yarn. Make up a water with\nlb. alum, lb. soda, and 6 drm. (avoirdupois)\nsoluble aniline blue. Heat to 122° F.; enter\nyarns, give five turns, add V/% lb. alum and V/%\noz. of the blue; enter yarn again, give eight\nturns, rinse and dry.— C.\nTopped Blue on Cotton and Linen Yarns (11\nlb.).— 1. Give a light blue in the vat, sour, rinse,\nand add to a cold water 1 oz. tin crystals and 3\nlb. 6 oz. nitrate of iron. Work for two hours,\ntake out, make up a fresh cold beck with 2«% to\n3J4 lb. logwood and 17 oz. alum dye cold in\nthis for a quarter of an hour, and rinse. If the\ncolor is not to smear, take through a lukewarm\ndecoction of 4*4 oz. glue, and dry.\n2. Vat as before, and make up a beck with so-\ncalled indigo substitute (a mixture of indulin\nand extract of logwood), enter the yarn, work\nfor thirty minutes at 144° F., and sadden in a\nfresh beck with 1J^ oz. chromate of potash and\noz. bluestone. This is a very dark shade.\n3. Vat as before, and work for an hour in a\nbeck of 11 lb. logwood and 17)4 oz. alum. Make\nup a fresh cold beck with 2 lb. 3 oz. copperas.\nGive ten turns in this, and according to shade\ngive two or three dips in both becks. If not\ndeep enough, add a little nitrate of iron to the\nlogwood beck. Rinse, and take through glue.\n-B.\nPrussian Blue.— 7 pieces, 84 lb. Work in jig-\nger, containing 15 gal. cold water; 5 qt. nitrate of\niron, 84° Twaddell; 1 pt. protochloride of tin at\n128° TwaddeU; give four ends, afterward wash\nin cold water, and recharge jigger with 15 gal.\nwater, in which is dissolved 5 lb. yellow prus-\nsiate of potash and 1 gill sulphuric acid, at\n170° Twaddell. Give four ends, Avash and dry.\n—a\nAniline Blue.— 7 pieces, 84 lb. Work in stan-\nnate of soda at 4° Twaddell, four ends, then in\nsulphuric acid, 1° Twaddell, four ends, and after-\nward four ends in water, then recharge jigger\nwith 8 oz. cotton aniline blue and 8 oz. alum in\n12 gal. water, 5 to 6 ends, wash and dry. C.\nNavy Blue.— 7 pieces, 84 lb. Work in jigger\ncharged with 101b. sumac,101b. ground logwood,\n15 gal. boiling water; give four ends, then re-\ncharge jigger with 4 qt. nitrate of iron, at 84°\nTwaddell, and 9 gal. cold water, in which give\nfour ends, and afterward wash, then recharge\nwith 15 gal. water, 4 lb. yellow prussiate of pot-\nash, and gill sulphuric acid, at 170° Twaddell,\ngive four ends and wash in cold water, recharge\nwith 15 gal. water, cold, and 6 oz. BB violet\ncrystals (coal tar), give five ends in this and\ndry.\nChina Blue (50 lb. yarn).— Dissolve 4 lb. alum\nand Q}4 oz. China blue (Berlin Anilin Aktien\nGesellschaf t). Enter yarn 120° F., turn brisk-\nly, raise to 150° F., and work to shade. Or pre-\npare with tannin, and then dye as above, with-\nout the alum.— C.\nAnother Blue (50 lb. yarn).— Dissolve 3 lb.\nalum, lb. carbonate of soda, 4 oz. tartaric\nacid, and 6 oz. cotton blue 4^ (Baden ani-\nline). Enter yarn 120° F., raise heat to 140° F.,\nturning continually to shade.— C.\nBright Brown (22 lb.)— 1. Dissolve in water,\ncatechu, 8M oz.; bluestone, 1} oz. Enter,\nsteep for an hour, wring, and make up a fresh\nboiling water with bichromate of potash 8% oz.\nEnter for a quarter of an hour, give several\nturns, and wring. Make up another water\nwith the decoction of sumac, Q}4 lb.; curd soap,\n10*4 oz.; and work into it oil, 314 oz. Stir up, en-\nter, give seven turns, add 33^ oz. salt of tin, stir\nup; re-enter, give seven more turns, wring,\nand prepare a fresh cold water containing a\nlittle Bismarck brown, and dye to shade.\n2. For a darker shade use catechu, 4 lb. 6 oz.;\nbluestone, 7 oz.; and for the chrome bath, 17}4\noz. bichromate of potash. C.\nMode Brown, a Yellowish Cinnamon (11 lb.)—\nEnter in a water at 122° F. with 2 lb. 3 oz. pale\ncatechu. Six turns, and enter in a weak bath\nof chromate of potash at 88° F. Re-enter in\nthe first beck to which oz. tin crystals have\nSolid Brown (22 lb.)— Boil in water, 2 lb. 3 oz.\ncatechu; let settle and dissolve in the clear\nsolution 7 oz. bluestone. Enter at 212° F., work\nfor an hour wring, and make up a fresh boil-\ning water with 5)4 oz. bichromate of potash.\nWork in this for half an hour, and rinse. Boil in\nwater 3M lb. sumac, work for fifteen minutes at\n190° F., lift, and add 534 oz. tin crystals. En-\nter again, work for a quarter of an hour, and\nwring. Pass in a fresh water, with garnet\nmagenta, 3)4 oz.; alum, 3)4 oz. Work for half\nan hour at 100° F.— C.\nBrown on Cotton Wool (110 lb.)— Dissolve 32)4\nlb. catechu in boiling water add 8% lb. blue-\nstone; boil the cotton for two hours in the\nsolution lift, drain, and enter in a fresh boil-\ning water with 8% lb. chromate of potash;\nwork for an hour, drain in the centrifugal,\nrinse, drain again in the centrifugal, and dry.\nc\nBrown on Sewing Cotton (20 lb.). Give four or\nfive turns in catechu at 3° Tw., and rinse in\nchrome or clear lime water. Wash in clean\nwater, and run into fustic liquor. Sadden with\n3 pails fustic liquor, 2 pails redwood liquor, and\n1 pail logwood liquor; tour turns. Now add 1 gal.\nalum liquor at 8° Tw., give four or five turns;\nwring out, and dry.— C.\nLight Brown on Sewing Cotton (20 lb.).— Run\nthrough catechu liquor at 3° Tw., raise with\nchrome in a fresh water; wash, and run into\nfustic liquor, to which is added 1 qt. solution of\nbluestone. If not rich enough, top with Bis-\nmarck brown to shade.— C.\nHair Brown, Light Blonde (60 lb.). Boil 6 lb.\ncutch and 6 oz. bluestone till dissolved. Add\nto a hot water, and give three turns put down\nall night one turn in the same liquor in the\nmorning, and wring out. Dissolve 1 lb. alum\nin a hot water; enter, give three turns, and\nlift. Boil 14 lb. turmeric and )4 lb. logwood\nextract together add this to the alum water\ngive four turns, wash in a cold water and dry.\na\nHair Brown; Dark Blonde (60 lb.).— Prepare\nwith cutch and bluestone as above. Then dis-\nsolve 6 oz. chrome add to a hot water four\nturns with yarns. Let off. Add to a warm\nwater 1 lb. alum three turns, and wring. Boil\n2 lb. fustic extract and 2 oz. logwood extract\ntogether, and add to a warm water. Four\nturns, lift, and add 2 qt. of dissolved copperas\nthree turns, wash in cold water, and dry. C.\nLight Red Brown (60 lb.).— Boil 12 lb. cutch\nwith 12 oz. bluestone till dissolved. Add\nthis to a hot water, give three turns, put\ndown all night; give one turn in morn-\ning, and wring out. Dissolve 12 oz. chrome,\nadd this to a hot water, give the yarns\nfour turns and run off. Dissolve 1 lb.\nalum in a hot water, give three turns more and\nwring; boil 1)4 lb. extract of fustic and 4 oz.\nextract of logwood together, add this to a hot\nwater, four turns and lift; add 1 qt. of copperas\nwater, give three turns more, wash in cold\nwater and dry.— C.\nDark Medium Brown (601b.).— Boil 12 lb. cutch\nand 1)4 lb. bluestone till dissolved; add this to\na hot water, give three turns with yarns, and","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0162.jp2"},"161":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n149\nDyeing.\nput down all night; give one turn in morning\nand wring up. Dissolve 1 lb. chrome, add it to\na hot water, give three turns and let off; dis-\nsolve 1 lb. alum, add it to a hot water; give\nthree turns and wring out. Boil 2 lb. fustic ex-\ntract and y lb. logwood extract together, add\nthese to a hot water, four turns and lift; add 3\nqt. of copperas water, three turns more, wash\nin cold water and dry.— C\nDark Brown on Cotton.— For 100 lb. cotton.\nMordant at the boil with catechu, 10 lb.; log-\nwood extract, 2 lb.: magenta, J4 lb., for three\nhours, then darken in a new bath with bichro-\nmate of potash, 31b.; soda, 2 lb.\nVery Dark Brown (60 lb.).— Boil 18 lb. of su-\nmac, put down in this all night, take through\n2 gal. black liquor in a cold water, wash off in\ntwo waters and wring up; boil 3 lb. cutch and\n1 lb. bluestone, add the solution to a hot water,\ngive four turns and lift; dissolve V/z lb. chrome,\nadd to a hot water, give four turns. Go through\nthe chrome and cutch three times each, and\nfinally sadden with 2 qt. copperas water. Wash\nin cold water and dry.— C.\nCinnamon Brown (10 lb.) Cloth or Yarn.—\nTake through catechu liquor at 4° Tw., or, in\ncase of piece goods, run three or four times\nbackward and forward in a jigger. The tem-\nperature of the bath is about 18u° F. Then pass\ninto a solution of chrome (bichromate of pot-\nash) at 1^2° Tw., and wash. Make up a tub (or,\nin case of pieces, a jigger) with about 30 gal.\nfustic liquor, 6 gal. redwood liquor and 34 lb.\nannatto, previously dissolved in the usual man-\nner. Give three turns, lift, add 4 qt. alum\nliquor at 8° Tw.; give three or four turns more,\nlift and finish. C.\nMadder Brown on Cotton Cloth (600 yd.)— Pad\nthe cloth in 6 gal. red liquor and 1 gal. black\nliquor, with an equal quantity of water. Dry\nin the machine or padding stove; let age for\ntwenty -four hours run through boiling chalk\nwater, and bring into a water at 170° F., with 40\nlb. bark and 20 lb. madder, and work for an\nhour wash, and finish. For darker shades, the\ncloth must be first prepared with sumac or my-\nrobolans.— C.\nMedium Brown on Cords or Beavers (70 to 80\nlb.)— Run through cutch liquor at 2}4° Tw. and\n180° F., four times in a jigger; chrome in warm\nwater, and run into two fustic liquors of 20 pails\neach add to the second fustic liquor 1 qt. an-\nnatto liquor. Then work well in a tub, with 5\npails sumac liquor, 3 pails redwood liquor, 2 pails\nlogwood liquor, and 10 pails fustic liquor. Then\nrun into a warm water, with 4 qt. of copperas\nliquor at 8° Tw. work well, in two waters, and\nrun again into two fustic liquors, to the second\nof which 1 qt. annatto liquor is added, and top\nwith Bismarck brown to shade.— C.\nLight Browns on Cords.— Kun through a jig-\nger with cutch at 2° Tw. at 160° F. take\nthrough a warm chrome water wash in two\nwaters, and run into two fustic liquors 20 pails\neach, to the second of which 1 pt. annatto is\nadded. Then work in 2 pails sumac, 2 pails red-\nwood liquor, 1 pail logwood liquor, and 15 pails\nfustic liquor/ Run into a warm water with 2\nqt. copperas liquor at 8° Tw. Wash in warm\nwater, and run into 20 pails fustic liquor, with\n1 pt. annatto liquor, and top with Bismarck\nbrown as required.— C.\nCommon Brown (100 lb.)— Boil 20 lb. catechu\nin water, dissolve in the liquid 10 lb. alum, let\nsettle, enter yarn in hot liquid and, after\nworking well, take out, and enter into a fresh\nboiling water, with 4 lb. yellow chromate of\npotash. Rinse and soften with oil and soap.— C.\nBrown; Bismarck Brown.— For 101b. of cloth\nor yarn, work in a hot decoction of 3^j lb. of\nsumac for y% hour wring out and work for 20\nminutes in a solution consisting of 43^ oz. of\nstannate of sodium, and then thoroughly wash\nfrom this. Dissolve 4 oz. of Bismarck brown in\nthe dye beck or boiler, and work the goods in\nthis for 34 hour, at 120° F. (48*8 C), or at a heat\nabout as hot as the hand can bear then wring\nout to dry. If a redder shade than this prepa-\nration will yield be desired, a little red liquor\nmust be added to the dye if a yellower tint be\nrequired, this may be got by the addition of a\nlittle fustic— G.\nDark Brown. 7 pieces, 84 lb. Work in jig-\nger, charged with 12 gal. boiling water, and 20\nlb. catechu, 5 lb. sumac (Palermo), and 3 lb.\nsulphate of copper give in this 5 ends, then re-\ncharge with 1 gal. acetate of iron, at 12° Tw.,\nand 5 lb. sulphate of iron cold, and 12 gal. water\ncold. Give 4 ends, and afterward wash again,\nand recharge jigger with 12 gal. water, boiling,\nand 3 lb. bichromate of potash; give 4 ends,\nthen wash and dry.\nMedium and Light Brown can be obtained by\ndecreasing the quantities of ingredients. G.\nDark Nacarat (10 lb.).— Boil 2 lb. catechu in\nwater; dissolve in the solution 5 lb. bluestone\nand work the yarn at a boil. Leave them in the\nliquid overnight; lift the next morning, and\ntake through a boiling water, with )4 lb. chro-\nmate of patash. Take out and steep for half\nan hour in a solution of tin at 3° Tw. Lift and\ntop at a hand heat with the decoction of 2 or 3\nlb. logwood. Work in this for an hour; lift,\nadd l£! oz. tin crystals, re-enter, work, wring,\nand dry.— C.\nFast and Bright Brown (10 lb.).— Boil in water\n2 lb. best Pegu cutch; dissolve in the liquid 3\noz. bluestone, and make up with water to 14\ngal. Let settle, heat the clear to a boil, enter\nthe yarn, and let steep for two hours. Lift,\nenter in a fresh boiling water with lb. bi-\nchrome. Give six turns, lif t, and rinse in cold\nwater. If a finer shade is desired, it may be\nentered in a water at 100° F., with y% lb. alum, 1\noz. tin crystals and a little magenta.— C.\nNoisette, Six Shades (11 lb.).— 1. Make up 87 pt.\nwater at 68° F., with 34 lb. sumac and 134 oz.\nprepared catechu. Enter the yarn, steep for\nan hour, lift, and add 2J4 oz. nitrate of iron; six\nturns, and wring well out. Make up a fresh\nwater at 86° P., with y 2 oz. chromate of patash\nsix turns, and take through warm water. C.\n2. Make up the first beck with 8% oz. of sumac\nand 2J4 oz. prepared catechu. Steep for an hour,\nlift, and add 3Hj oz. nitrate of iron; re-enter,\nsix turns, and enter in a water at 86° F., with 1\noz. chromate of potash.— C.\n3. The first Avater is at 86° F., and contains the\ndecoction of 13 oz. sumac, 4 oz. logwood, and\n33^2 oz. prepared catechu. Steep for an hour.\nAdd 33-6 oz. nitrate of iron, give ten turns, and\ntake through a fresh beck of 1% oz. chromate\nof potash.— C.\n4. The first water is made up with 17 oz. su-\nmac, 8% oz. logwood, and 43^ oz. prepared cat-\nechu. Steep for an hour. Add 43^ oz. nitrate\nof iron, and give ten turns and pass through a\nfresh beck of 234 oz. chromate of potash at\n86° F.— C.\n5. The first water is made up with 26 oz. su-\nmac, 17 oz. logwood, and 7 oz. prepared catechu.\nSteep for an hour; add 634 oz. nitrate of iron\nand give ten turns. Take through a beck of 33^\noz. chromate of potash. C.\n6. 2 lb. 3 oz. sumac, and the same weight of\nlogwood for the first beck. Use 93^ oz. nitrate\nof iron, and take through 634 oz. chromate of\npotash.— C.\nBuff on Cotton Yarn (31 lb.)— Annatto, 2 oz.;\nsoda ash, 4 oz. Dissolve in water at a hand\nheat. Give the yarns five turns and wring.\nEnter in a fresh lukewarm water, slightly\nsoured with vitriol. Five turns. Wash.\nLight Buff (60 lb.)— Bleach, add to a cold\nwater 3 pt. nitrate of iron; work yarns five\ntimes and wring. Add clear lime water to a\nfresh cold water, give five turns and wring, re-\nenter in the iron liquor, five turns, wash off\nand dry.— C.\nAnother Light Buff (60 lb.).— Bleach, work\nyarn five times in dilute clear lime water and\nwring; boil 2 oz. Bismarck brown (Brooke,\nSimpson Co.), and add to a cold water. Work\nfive turns, wash in cold water and dry.— C.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0163.jp2"},"162":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n150\nDyeing.\nDark Buff (60 lb.).— Boil 6 lb. turmeric with 3\nlb. alum in 6 gal. water, and add this to a hot\nwater. Work yarns five times and lift, add 3 pt.\nnitrate of iron, three turns more, wash in cold\nwater and dry.— C.\nAnother Buff (11 lb.).— Boil 1 oz. to 1% oz. an-\nnatto in the solution of 2\\i oz. soda ash, and\nwork the yarn for an hour at a boil. Lift, and\ntop in a fresh water with magenta and a little\nalum.— C.\nCanary— 5pieces=80 lb. cloth— Jigger charged\nwith 12 gal. cold water, 2 pt. fustic extract at\n48° Twaddell, give 1 end, then addl^j pt. fustic\nextract at 48° Twaddell, give 4 ends, and re-\ncharge jigger with the same quantity of water,\nand 3 lb. of alum, give 4 ends, and afterward 2\nin water, and then the goods are ready.— G.\nChamois -5 pieces=80 lb. cloth.— 12 gal. water\nat 100° F.; jigger charged with 3 pt. catechu 4°\nTw., give 1 end, then add 2 pt. catechu at 4°\nTw., give 4 ends more, recharge jigger with\nsame water and 3 qt. bichromate potash (1 lb.\nper gal.), give 1 end, then add 2 qt. more bi-\nchromate potash (1 lb. per gallon), give 4 ends,\nwash.— O.\nChocolate (11 lb.)— Work for half an hour at\n167° F. in a water of oz. prepared catechu,\nlift, and pass five to seven times through a\nfresh water at the same heat made up with 1*4\noz. chromate of potash. Lift, and top in a\nfresh water with about T V oz. magenta and 15\ngT. extract indigo.— C.\nClaret (11 lb.).— Make up a water with 17 oz.\nprepared catechu, and work the yarns for an\nhour. Wring and steep for half an hour in a\nhot water with 634 oz. chromate of potash, take\nthrough cold water and work for half an hour\nin a water at 190° F, with 3J4 lb. sumac. Dye in\na cold water with 1% oz. magenta, lift, and add\nto the water 8% oz. alum and the decoction of\n2J4 lb. logwood. Enter again, work, lift, and\nadd from y to 1% oz. chromate of potash, re-\nenter and work.— C.\nClaret (72 lb. cloth).— Jigger charged with 12\ngal. of hot water at 120° F. (49° C), and 10 lb.\nsumac, and 10 lb. ground logwood, give 5 ends\nin this, then add to it 5 gills protochloride of\ntin at 120° Tw., give 4 ends more and wash, re-\ncharge jigger with 12 gal. hot water 120° F., 10\nlb. ground logwood, and 5 lb. peachwood, give\n4 ends in this, and afterward add to same\ncharge 8 oz. ground alum, dissolve, and give 2\nmore ends, wash as usual.—©.\nCream Color (11 lb.)— Boil out oz. prepared\ncatechu in water, and dissolve 2 lb. 3 oz. curd\nsoap in the clear liquid. Enter the cotton at\n190° F., and work for an hour.— C.\nDove on Velvets.— Run through 60 gal. water,\nto which 10 gal. logwood liquor and 5 gal. sumac\nhave been added. Lift, add 3 qt. copperas\nliquor at 8° Tw., enter, run through again,\nwash, and finish.— C.\nLight Drab on Cotton (60 lb. cotton yarn).—\nBoil 3 lb. sumac, 1 lb. logwood chips, 1 lb. fustic.\nEnter, the yarn at 120° F., give five turns, wring,\nadd 4 oz. copperas, give five turns at the s ame\ntemperature, take out and add 4 oz, nitrate of\niron, }4 bucket fustic liquor, give five turns and\nwash out in water. Second bath, 2 lb. soap at\n110° F., give five turns and wring.\nLight Drab (60 lb.).— Boil 6 oz. redwood ex-\ntract till dissolved. Add the liquor to a warm\nwater, work five turns, lift and add 1}4 pt.\nblack liquor. Three turns more, wash and dry.\nMedium Drab (60 lb.).— Increase the peach-\nwood extract to 1 lb., and work as above.— C.\nDark Drab (60 lb.).— Boil 6 lb. cutch until dis-\nsolved (without any bluestone), add to a hot\nwater, five turns, run off and wring. Dissolve\n1J^ lb. peachwood extract, add to a warm water,\nfive turns, lift and add 1 qt. black liquor, three\nmore turns, wash and dry. For a yellower\nshade, boil a little extract of fustic along with\nthe peachwood for a redder shade add a little\nalum along with the peachwood, and for a\nbrowner tone top with a little Bismarck brown.\nDrab on Velvets.— Run four or five times\nthrough a bath made up of 60 gal. fustic liquor,\n20 gal. sumac liquor and 1 pt. of dissolved an-\nnatto. Lift, add 4 qt. of copperas liquor at 8°\nTw. Run four or five times through, wash and\nfinish.— C.\nLight Drab on Cords.— Work with 1 pail\nsumac, 2 pails fustic, 4 qt. logwood and 1J4 pt.\nannatto, filling the tub up with warm water.\nRun into a warm water with 3 pt. copperas\nliquor at 8° Tw., and wash off in warm water.\n-C.\nDrab (100 lb. yarn).— Dissolve 8 lb. alum and\nlb. nigrosine (F. Beyer Co., of Elberfeld).\nEnter at 120° F. and turn constantly to shade\nwhilst raising the heat.— C.\nFawn on Velvets.— Make up a catechu bath\nat 2° Tw. and 180° F., run through this, pass\ninto chrome bath at 1° Tw., wash and sadden\nwith 60 gal. fustic and 30 gal. sumac. Lift, add\n4 qt. copperas at 8° Tw., run through again,\nwash and finish.— C.\nGray on Cotton Yarn (31 lb.).— Boil out 30 oz.\nfustic. Enter the yarn at a hand heat, and let\nsoak for fifteen minutes sadden with the same\nweight of copperas, wash well and wring. En-\nter in a cold water with 60 oz. alum and dye up\nto shade with a little induline.— THZZ cams Bros.\nEkin.\nPrussiate Green (22 lb.).— Dissolve 2 lb. 3 oz.\nalum in lukewarm water and give two turns.\nDissolve in fresh water 17^ oz. solid extract of\nbark. Work for an hour and wring three\ntimes. Prepare two cold waters, the first with 7\noz. nitrate of iron slightly soured with sulphuric\nacid, and the second with 3}/ 2 oz. yellow prussi-\nate. Give five turns in each, lift and wring.\nBefore taking out of the second add 2 oz. muri-\natic acid, rinse, wring and dry.\nFor heavy greens take extract of bark, 2 lb.\n3 oz.; nitrate of iron, 12 oz.; yellow prussiate, 7\noz.— C.\nGrass Green (55 lb.).— Steep the cotton, pre-\nviously boiled, for a night in water with 8% oz.\nalum. Next morning rinse, wring and enter in\na water at 140° F., containing 13 lb. 2 oz. bark.\nWork for forty-five minutes, wx*ing and dye to\nshade in a water containing 4 lb. 6 oz. soda\ncrystals and Nicholson blue (BBB) oz. The\ncolor, of course dissolved, should be added in\ntwo portions to prevent unevenness. Work\nfor half an hour, lift and add to the beck the\nsolution of 3J4 lb. alum. Six more turns, rinse,\nwring and dry.— C.\nCceruleine Green.— Mordant with chrome\nalum, or take the yarn alternately through\nchromate of potash and bisulphite of soda.\nFor the dye beck stir up the cceruleine with\ntwice its weight bisulphite of soda at 71}^, and\nlet the mixture stand for some hours before\nadding it to the dye beck.— C.\nMethyl Green (22 lb.).— Dissolve 17J4 oz. tannin\nin water, enter the cotton at 167° F., and steep\nfor fifteen minutes, giving several turns.\nWring, and add to a fresh cold water the solu-\ntion of S}4 oz. methyl green, enter yarns, give\ntwelve turns, wring and dry.— C. Or (for 11\nlb.), dissolve 3,100 grains tannin in a boiling\nwater, enter the bleached cotton overnight in\nthe hot solution, wring out and dye in cold\nwater with a solution of the color according to\nshade. Wring, and dry in the dark without\nwashing.— C.\nEmerald Green on Cotton Velvets.— Give a\nyellow ground with f ustie liquor. Work well,\nlift, and add 4 qt. solution of alum at 10° Tw.\nWork well, and wash in two clear waters. Re-\npeat the same operation and fold the pieces up.\nWhen dry, blue the pieces in the vat to the\nshade required. C.\nLight Bluish Green (11 lb.).— Extract 17 oz.\nturmeric at a boil, and add to a water. Steep\nfor two hours, lift, add 1% to 2^ oz. sulphuric\nacid, re-enter five times, take out, wash well,\nand dye a Prussian blue in the following: a. 3\ncz. tin crystals, 8% oz. nitrate of iron. b. 4*4\noz. yellow prussiate, 2% oz. sulphuric acid. If","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0164.jp2"},"163":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n151\nDyeing.\nthe blue is required darker, repeat the opera-\ntion.— C.\nNight Green for Cotton Velvets, Velveteens,\netc.— Boil 3 lb. nut-galls in 4 gal water, let\nsettle, draw off the clear and dilute it with 20\ngal. water. Bring this liquor into a jigger at\nabout 150 F., enter the piece and run it through\nsix times, add a pint of double muriate of tin\nand run through again. Wash and run through\na bath prepared with 20 gal. of water, to which\n4 gal. fustic liquor have been added. Run\nthrough six times, add to the fustic 4 qt. alum\nliquor at 8° Tw. Run through several times\nmore, lift and drain in a centrifugal. Make up\na jigger with 20 gal. water and Yz lb. of night\ngreen paste, previously dissolved when all the\ncolor has been taken up, take up and finish.\n(Methyl green, Helvetia green, or Malachite\ngreen, according to shade, will now be substi-\ntuted for the night green paste. C.\nRussian Green for Cotton Yarn. After hav-\ning been well boiled the yarn is brought into a\nboiling both of 20 lb. sumac and 1 pound log-\nwood extract, left in this overnight and placed\ninto a cold bath containing 4 lb. copperas and\n■6 oz. Cyprus vitriol, turned for an hour, taken\nout and placed again into the first bath, turned\nabout ten times and dyed in fresh tepid water,\ncontaining lb. methyl green, and shaded in\nthe same bath, according to wants, with decoc-\ntion of fustic and logwood.\nChrome Orange on Cotton Carpet Yarn (100\nlb. of yarn).— 16 lb. of brown sugar of lead, 8 lb.\nof litharge, 8 lb. of chrome, 5 lb. of lime.\n1 Bath.— Dissolve the lead and litharge, enter\nthe yarn, which must be previously boiled out,\ngive five turns, wring out.\n2 Bath.— Dissolve chrome, enter yarn warm,\ngive the necessary turns, from three to five,\nwash off and wring.\n3 Bath.— Slake the lime, enter the yarn boil-\ning hot, and turn to finish, wash off and wring\nready for the drying room.\nNote 1.— For finer yarns, white sugar of lead\nwill work a cleaner or brighter color, but not\nas heavy a body. 2. If the color should not be\nred enough in liming, throw up and add more\nlime.\nBlue Green on Cords, Beavers, and Beaver-\nteens.— Boil the goods in soda ash for an hour,\nand leave folded up in clear water to drain.\nGive a good ground in the vat, sour, wash well\nin two or three waters, and sadden in logwood\nliquor, 50 gal., and fustic liquor, 30 gal. Add\neopperas water, 2 qt., and bluestone liquor, 2\nqt., and run through again. Wash in two\nwaters and run the pieces into fustic liquor, 70\ngal. Drain, add bluestone water, 3 qt., at 8°\nTw., run through and wash. Give five turns in\neach operation. This is a bluish olive.— C-\nChrome Green on Cloth or Yarn.— Give a vat\nblue ground, run through, sour, and wash in\nclean water. Run through sugar of lead at 6°\nTw., then through caustic soda at 2°— 3° Tw.,\nwash off, and run through bichromate of pot-\nash at 2° Tw.\nCloth requires three or four turns, yarn five\nor six turns.\nGreen on Yarn (100 lb.). Dissolve nitrate of\niron, 10 lb.; tin crystals, 1 lb. Work through\nthe cold solution, give five turns and wring.\nDissolve in another water yellow prussiate, 6\nlb., give the yarn six turns in the cold solution,\nwring, and pass back to the nitrate of iron,\nand thence return to the prussiate bath, to\nwhich alum, 2 lb., have been added, give three\ndips in each, and rinse.\nBoil bark, 40 lb., for an hour, strain the de-\ncoction into a tub, add sugar of lead, 1 lb., well\ndissolved, and when all is mixed, enter the yarn\nat 180° F., and turn it for half an hour, wring,\nand take it through another water, containing\nalum, 2 lb.; indigo paste, 2 lb. Rinse and dry.\nCheap Green. Prepare yarns overnight in a\ndecoction of sumac, Boil fustic, 25 lb., for one\nhour in a bag. Add to the liquid verdigris,\n2% lb., dissolved in acetic acid and hot water.\nCool the dye and enter the yarns, turn well,\nand heat up to a boil. Keep the yarn half an\nhour in the bath, let it cool, and enter it in\nanother water containing the decoction of 10\nlb. logwood, heat to a boil, and keep it there\nfor half an hour; lif t and rinse.\nBy using bluestone instead of verdigris an\nolive green shade is produced.— C.\nGray (31 lb.).— Extract fustic, 3(J oz., at a boil.\nEnter the yarns at a hand heat, and steep for\nfifteen minutes. Sadden with copperas, 30 oz.\nWash well and wring, enter in a cold water\nwith alum, 60 oz., and dye up to shade with a\nlittle induline. (Williams Brothers and Ekin.)\nC.\nMode Gray on Cotton Wool (22 lb.).— Enter in\nwater with the extract of 11 lb. logwood, work\nfor half an hour in the cold, lift, and add cop-\nperas, 43^ lb. 6 oz. Re-enter and work to shade;\nlift, rinse, and dry.— C.\nSlate Gray on Cotton Wool (22 lb.).— Make a\ndecoction of sumac, 2 lb. 3 oz.; catechu, 173^\noz. Enter the cotton at 122 F., and let steep\nfor an hour, turning from time to time. Lift,\nand add to the water 8M oz. nitrate of iron, re-\nenter and work till the color is level. Lift,\nwring, and add to a fresh water bichromate of\npotash, 6% oz. Heat to 140° F., enter the cot-\nton, give seven turns, let steep till cold, and\ndry.-C.\nSilver Gray (55 lb.).— Six turns in a decoction\nof gall-nuts, 13 oz., wring, and pass into a cold\nwater with copperas, 3 lb. 434 oz., and blue-\nstone, 1 lb. 10 oz. Seven turns, rinse, and dry.\nC.\nMode Gray (55 lb.).— Boil in a water, 334 lb.\ncatechu dry extract logwood, 17 oz. and dis-\nsolve copperas, 8% oz., and bluestone, 8% oz.\nEnter yarns at 122° F., and work for half an\nhour. C.\nLight Gray on Cotton Pieces (60 lb.)— Boil\nsolid extract of logwood, 134 lb., and solid ex-\ntract of bark, 34 lb., in water. Run the pieces\nsix to eight times through, squeeze, and run\nthrough a fresh beck of water with copperas,\n5 lb. Rinse, and finish with the dressing di-\nrected for pansy.— C.\nMedium Gray (60 lb.).— Increase the extract\nof logwood to 234 lb. and the bark to %lb.,\nand use 10 lb. copperas.— C.\nDark Gray (60 lb.).— Extract logwood, 41b.,\nand extract of bark, 134 lb. Add to the finish-\ning mixture logwood and copperas enough to\ncolor it slightly. If a yellow tone is required\nadd more bark liquor, and for a reddish shade\ntake a little sapan liquor. C.\nStone Gray (25 lb.).— Boil sumac, 25 lb., and\nfustic, 1 lb. Enter, give five turns, wring, and\nenter in a cold water with copperas, 1 lb.,\nand bluestone, lb. Five turns, rinse, and\ndry.\nCotton Dyeing.— Fast Gray (22 lb.).— Mix 1%\npt. olive oil and the solution of 2 lb. 3 oz.\nsoda crystals. Work the cotton in this mix-\nture at a boil for thirty minutes, wring and\ndry. Then powder 44 lb. coal very fine, add\n1534 lb. soda crystals and 1734 pt. boiling water.\nLet the mixture steep for some hours and then\nboil for half an hour in 227 pt. of water; strain\nand work in the hot liquid for a quarter of an\nhour and wring well. Repeat this process five\ntimes, wringing each time. Wash in lukewarm\nwater, then in cold water, wring and dry. Pass\ninto weak size, to which a little emulsive oil has\nbeen added, wring and dry. This gray resists\nsoap, acids and chloride of lime, but it is not\nbeautiful.— C.\nMode Gray (11 lb.).— Work for two hours with\nthe decoction of 35 oz. sumac and 434 oz. fustic.\nLift and dye in a fresh water with 434 oz. cop-\nperas. Top in fresh water with gentiana, blue\nor methyl violet.— C.\nMaroon on Cotton (75 lb. yarn).— Steep over-\nnight in decoction of 18 lb. sumac, wring and\nenter cold in a bath of oxymuriate of anti-\nmony, 2° Tw., work for four hours, wash,","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0165.jp2"},"164":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n152\nDyeing.\nwring and enter dye bath of 4 pails redwood\nliquor and 9 oz. garnet (Farbwerke, Hoechst\nam Main) at 120° F. and raise to 160° F., turning\nconstantly. C.\nDeep Olive (11 lb.).— Boil in sufficient water 14\noz. sumac, work for an hour in the clear and\nmake up a fresh water with 26 oz. copperas.\nWork for fifteen minutes, wring and prepare a\nbeck of red liquor at 1^° Tw., raise to 140° F.,\ngive ten turns, lift, wring and enter in a fresh\nwater, at 140° F., containing 5J^ lb. fustic.\nWork for an hour and wring. Bark may be\nused in place of fustic— C.\nLight Olive (10 lb.)— Boil 1 lb. bark in water.\nBoil lb. turmeric in another vessel and mix\nthe decoctions. Dissolve in the liquid 5 oz.\nalum and oz. extract of indigo, or more, as\nthe shade may require. Steep the yarn in this\nliquid at 88° F., and top to shade with a decoc-\ntion of peachwood. C.\nLight Olive (11 lb.).— Boil 3J4 lb. fustic in\nwater, make up a bath with the extract, dis-\nsolve in it 17^ oz. alum, enter yarn and steep\nfor an hour. Lift and dissolve in the bath 1%\noz. extract indigo. Re-enter and work for fif-\nteen minutes. C.\nMedium Olive (11 lb.).— Extract 8]4 oz. sumac\nin boiling water, enter the yarn in the clear\nliquid, let steep and make up a fresh water\nwith 8V£ oz. copperas. Enter the yarn (previ-\nously wrung out), work for fifteen minutes,\nwring and enter in a fresh beck of red liquor at\n1^2° Tw. Give twelve turns at 148° F., wring,\nmake up a fresh water with the decoction of 2\nlb. 11 oz. bark and work half an hour.— 0.\nH Carmelite Olive.— For 100 lb. bleached cotton,\n15 lb. catechu, 4 lb. blue vitriol, 1 lb. bichrom-\nate. Work same as for yellow cannelle and\nfinish with 15 lb. quercitron and 1 tumbler of\npyrolignite of iron.\nAniline Orange (60 lb.).— Bleach, boil 3 lb. tan-\nnic acid, and add this to a warm water. Work\nyarns five turns, and wring. Spirit with 3 qt.\nnitro-muriate of tin, and wash in cold water\nwith a little soap in the last water. Dissolve 12\noz. aniline orange, add this to a warm water,\nwash, and dry.— C.\nAnnatto Orange (60 lb.).— Boil 6 lb. best an-\nnatto in 2 lb. soap and 2 lb. common soda till\ndissolved, and add this to a boiling water.\nWork yarn five turns, wash in cold water, and\ndry. This color may be topped with various\nwares.— C.\nFull Orange (60 lb.).— Dissolve 12 lb. sugar of\nlead in 12 gallons of clear lime water, and add\nthe solution to a cold water. Work yarn five\nturns, and wring. Dissolve 4 lb. bichromate of\npotash, and add to a cold water. Work five\nturns and wring, and repeat twice in the old\nliquor, wringing each time. Heat lime water\nto a boil, and work yarn live turns quickly.\nWash off in warm water with a little soap, and\ndry.— C.\nOrange on Cotton Velvets, etc. Pour 10 gal.\nboiling water on 4 lb. of turmeric, but do not\nboil stir up well, let settle, and run the clear\ninto a jigger; make up with water to 20 gal.,\nand add y lb. annatto, which has been boiled\nwith M lb. of pearlash. Run the piece six\ntimes through, and add 4 qt. solution of alum\nat 8° Tw., and J4 Pt oil of vitriol. Run through\nseveral times more, wash, dry, and it is ready\nfor finishing.— C.\nCheap Orange (50 lb.).— Dissolve 10 lb. sugar\nof lead, boil for half an hour with 4 lb. litharge,\nlet settle, and enter the yarns in the solution\nof basic acetate of lead thus obtained.\nGive two turns, lift, wring, and take\nthrough weak lime water, and then\ninto a warm water containing the solu-\ntion of 6 lb. bichromate of potash. After\nfifteen minutes lift and take through boiling\nlime water very quickly. Rinse and dry. G.\nFine Orange (11 lb.).— 1. Boil21% oz. annatto in\nthe decoction of 11 oz. soda crystals, filter, and\nwork in the hot clear liquid for half an hour.\nLift and pass through a fresh water at 100° F M\nwith 17 oz. alum, to which a little magenta may\nbe added if a redder tone is required.— C.\n2. Steep the well bleached yarns overnight,\n6J4 oz. tannin. Take out and dye at 144° F. with\naniline orange.— C.\nRich Orange (72 lb.).— Jigger charged with 12\ngal. hot water, 120° F. (49° 0.), and 12 oz. soda\nash, 4 lb. annatto. Dissolve and add 4 lb. tur-\nmeric give four ends in this, then add to same\n8 oz. (fluid) of sulphuric acid at 170 Tw., give\ntwo ends in it, and afterward wash. This is\nmuch cheaper than chrome orange, and good.\nAlizarine Red for Yarns (220 lb.).— Prepare in\nneutral alizarine oil. Dry the yarns in the\nstove, and steam for three-quarters of an hour\nat 1J^ atmosphere pressure. Mordant in red\nliquor at 14° Tw., and wash well. Dye for one\nand a half hours at 158° F. with the follow-\ning mixture: Alizarine, at 10$, 441b.; acetate of\nlime, at 33° Tw., 22 lb.; sulpholeic acid, 11 lb.\nSteam for an hour, and soap as may be needed,\nwith or without the addition of carbonate of\nsoda. A little tin crystals may be added to the\nred liquor to raise the color.\nThe selection of alizarines depends on the\ntone of color aimed at. Alizarine for reds\nused alone gives the most vivid red. If a bluer\ntone is desired, a little alizarine for violet is\nadded.— C.\nAniline Scarlet (60 lb.).— Bleach boil 3 lb.\ntannic acid, and steep the yarn overnight in the\nsolution. Mordant with permuriate of tin (red\ncotton spirits). Wash off in two cold waters\nand wring up. Dissolve 6 oz. aniline scarlet,\nand add the solution to a warm water. Work\nthe yarn for an hour, giving ten turns wash\nin cold water and stove dry. C.\nAnother Aniline Scarlet (60 lb.). Bleach and\nmordant as in the last receipt. Boil 3 lb. tur-\nmeric and 3 oz. aniline ponceau, and add the\nsolution to a hot water. Work yarns ten turns,\nwash in cold water and stove. G.\nCommon Scarlet (60 lb.).— Bleach boil 6 lb.\nsumac, and add this to a hot water. Work the\nyarns five turns, and wring mordant in tin, as\nin the preceding receipts. Wash in two cold\nwaters, and wring up. Boil 18 lb. peachwood\nand the same weight of fustic ground, and add\nthe decoction to a hot water. Work the yarns\nten turns, and raise with 1 lb. alum. Wash in\ncold \\7ater and stove. For lighter shades the\nsumac may be omitted and turmerip used in.\nplace of fustic. C.\nScarlet on Cotton (22 lb.).— Dissolve in hot\nwater separately oz. good glue and 17^ oz.\ncurd soap. Mix. Enter the yarns, work well\nfor half an hour and wring out. Then enter\nthe yarns in tiu composition at 6%° Tw., work\nwell for half an hour and wring. Enter into\nred liquor at 6%° Tw., work for two hours and\nwring. Then dye at a hand heat in a water to-\nwhich dissolved aniline scarlet is gradually\nadded. As soon as the shade is reacted the\nheat is raised a little, and the yarn is then let\ngradually cool in the flot. The red liquor used\nin this process is prepared by dissolving 10 lb.\nalum and 10 lb sugar of lead, each separately,\nmixing the solutions, letting settle, decanting\noff the clear liquid, and adding to it the solu-\ntion of 2 lb. soda crystals.\nSaffranine Scarlet (60 lb.).— Bleach; boil 2 lb.\nannatto with 1 lb. soap and 1 lb. soda until welL\ndissolved and add to a boiling water. Work\nten turns, wash in two cold waters, and wring\nup. Mordant in red liquor, wash off in two\nwaters, and wring. Add to a beck of warm\nwater 2 lb. of saffranine. Work yarns in this\nfor one hour, giving ten turns. Wash in cold\nwater, and stove.— C.\nSaffranine Scarlet (60 lb.). 1. Soak yarn for\ntwelve hours in hot water, wring and soak for\nan hour in the warm decoction of 20 lb. sumac.\nLift and pass through nitro-muriate of tin at\n2^j° Tw. Rinse three times, and wring. Ex-\ntract 2 lb. turmeric in a little water, add a boil\nadd the decoction to a cold water, and add fur-\nther 19% oz. saffranine, previously dissolved in","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0166.jp2"},"165":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n153\nDyeing.\n3^ pt. of boiling water, and filtered. Enter the\nyarn, and gradually raise the heat to 131° P.,\nturning well for half an hour.— C.\n2. Take the bleached goods through stannate\nof soda at 234° Tw., and leave tor an hour take\nthrough vitriol sours at 34° Tw., and wash. Dye\nwith aniline scarlet. Pass through a water\nwith tartar emetic, drain in the centrifugal,\nand top in a fresh water with saffranine. After-\nward pad in a 10 per cent, solution of alizarine\noil, dry and steam.— C.\nPeachwood Scarlet (55 lb.).— Boil together for.\ntwenty minutes 11 lb. sumac and 53^ lb. tur-\nmeric. Steep the yarn overnight in the clear\nliquid lift, and give five turns in tin solution\nat 2}i° Tw. Give five turns in a water with 13\nlb. peachwood, and let steep for two hours.\nLift, and let steep three or four hours in a\nfresh water with 26 lb. peachwood and 5 lb. 734\noz. alum. The tin solution is prepared as fol-\nlows Muriatic acid, 3 parts nitric acid, 1 part.\nTo every 2 lb. 3 oz. of this mixed acid take 4M\noz. tin crystals. The second peachwood beck\nmay be saved and used for the first peachwood\nsteep of the next lot.— C.\nSafflower Scarlet (60 lb.). Bleach boil till\nquite dissolved 3 lb. concentrated annatto with\n1 lb. soap, 1 lb. soda crystals, and add this to a\nbeck of boiling water. Work yarns one hour,\nten turns. Wash in two cold waters and wring.\nAdd to a water one bottle carthamine (extract\nof safliower), work yarns four turns and lift\nadd 3 pt. acetic acid re-enter, work till all the\ncolor is taken up. Wash off in three cold\nwaters, to the last of which 1 lb. cream of tar-\ntar is added. Wring and dry cold. C.\nAnother Scarlet (100 lb.).— Steep overnight in\nthe decoction of 20 lb. sumac. Work for 5f-\nteen to twenty -five minutes in a beck of oxy-\nmuriate of antimony at 2° Tw., wash well, and\ndye to shade with ponceau 2 B (Berlin Aktien\nGesellschaft) 134 lb. Enter a t70° P., and raise\nheat not above 90° F.— C.\nAnother Scarlet (50 lb.).— Steep overnight in\nthe decoction of 18 lb. sumac, wring, and enter\ncold in a bath of oxymuriate of antimony at 2°\nTw. Give three or four turns, and let steep for\nhalf to three-quarters of an hour. Wash, and\ndye up with saffranine, 10 oz.; phosphine, 4 oz.\n(Berlin Aktien Gesellschaft). Enter at 60°, and\nturn rapidly, raising the temperature to (but\nnot above) 110° F.— C.\nPonceau and Scarlet with Saffranine on Cot-\nton (11 lb.).— Prepare a boiling beck with 34 kilo,\nturmeric, and work the goods in it for an hour.\nTake through a beck of 1734 oz. sulphuric acid,\nlif t and prepare for three hours at a boil with\n234 lb. sumac. Take out and dry in a fresh beck\nat hand heat with clear solution of saffranine.\nPonceau 3 R. Berlin Aktien Gesellschaft.—\nSoap and dry; mordant for an hour in red\nliquor at 17° Tw., free from lead. Wring and\ndye in a fresh water to which the dissolved\ncolor is added. Heat slowly to a boil, and let\nthe cotton cool in the bath. The red liquor is\nprepared as follows: 8 parts sulphate of alu-\nmina, 14 water, 7 soda crystals, 10 parts sugar\nof lead and 7 water. Each of these liquids is\nboiled separately, and when cooled down to a\nhand heat they are mixed; the mixture is\nstirred, let settle, and filtered. This process\nmay be used for fixing any of the ponceaux\nand the Bordeaux of the same company upon\ncotton.— C.\nClaret on Cotton Yarns (11 lb.).— Make up a\nbeck with 1734 oz. prepared catechu, and work\nthe prepared yarn in it for one hour. Wring\nand steep for half an hour in a hot beck of 6J4\noz. chroma te of potash; take through cold\nwater, and work for thirty minutes in a beck\nof 334 lb sumac at 190° F. Then dye in a cold\nbeck with 1% oz. magenta, take out, add to the\nbeck oz. alum and the decoction of 234 lb-\nlogwood. Enter again, work in the cold beck\nlift and add according to shade from to\noz. chromate of potash, re-enter and work.\nThe color is now complete.— R.\nSaffranine Pink (601b.).— Bleach and mordant\nin red liquor. Wash well from this in two or\nthree cold waters, and wring. Add to a warm\nwater 1 lb. saffranine paste work five turns,\nwash off in cold water, and stove.— C.\nSafliower Pink. (60 lb.).— Bleach and add three\ngills of extract safliower (carthamine) to a\nwater. Work yarns for six hours, giving them\na turn every half hour, and keep them in the\nliquid till all the coloring matter is taken up;\nadd toward the close a little acetic acid to raise\nthe shade. Wash off in three waters, adding\nto the last 1 lb. of cream of tartar, and dry\ncold.— C.\nSafliower Pink.— 7 pes., 84 lb.; worked in jig-\nger with 20 gallons of water at blood heat, and\n9 oz. safliower liquor of commerce, give 3 to 4\nends, then add to the same bath 34 gill sul-\nphuric acid at 170° Twaddell. Give 2 ends more\nin this liquor, which is to precipitate the col-\noring matter into the fiber of the cloth. Wash,\nmangle and dry.— G.\nAniline Pink (50 lb.).— The yarns, well\nbleached, are entered at 110° F. in a water\nwith—\nSulpnate of soda 5 1b.\nPink (Baden Anilin Fabrik) 4 oz.\nTurn well lift, heat to 140° F., and finish.\nThe dyeware should not all be added at once.\n—C.\nErythrosine Pink (50 lb.).— Add to a lukewarm,\nwater-\nSulphate of soda crystals 5 lb.\nErythrosine B. S. (Meister, Lucius\nBruning) 5 oz.\nEnter yarns at 120° F., and turn to shade,,\nraising the heat gradually to 140° F. It is rec-\nommended to add the color— of course dis-\nsolved—in two equal portions.— C.\nPhloxine Pink (50 lb.).— Dissolve common salt\nin the water till it marks 5° Tw. Add the so-\nlution of 6 oz. phloxine extra B B (P. Monet\nCo., Geneva). Enter yarns at 70° F., and give\nfive turns while the temperature is raised to\n100 F.; wring and dry without washing.— C.\nSafliower Rose (60 lb.)— Bleach; work as for\nsafliower pink, but double the quantity of car-\nthamine, and give a little more time C.\nMagenta (50 lb.).— Add to a water at 144° F.\nTin crystals h% oz.\nAnd the solution of the same weight of ma-\ngenta, which is added in two portions, giving\nsix turns after each. C.\nCoralline Red (11 lb.). Boil 35 oz. sumac or\n2,790 grn. of tannin in water, and steep the\ncotton all night in the hot clear liquid. Wring\nout next morning, and enter in afresh water at\n122° F. with 1734 oz. good glue; wring out and dye\nto shade with coralline in cold water; wring\nagain, and without washing dry in a room\nwhose atmosphere is impregnated with am-\nmonia. Aurine is dyed in the same manner as\ncoralline.— C.\nMagenta on Cotton Wool(li0 lb.).— Add to a\nboiling water 5 lb. 7 oz. tannin. When per-\nfectly dissolved enter the cotton and boil for\ntwo hours; reduce heat and steep for another\nhour. Dissolve 2 lb. 3 oz. soap, dilute the tan-\nnin beck sufficiently, and work the cotton well.\nLift, drain in the centrifugal, and dye in a fresh\nwater with 27—31 oz. magenta.— C.\nRose Bengale (P. Monnet Co.)— Work the\ncotton for an hour in water, containing b% of\nalizarine oil, dry, steen for two hours in cold\nred liquor at 234° Tw., and enter in the dye beck,\nwhich for every 35 oz. cotton contains 34 oz.\ncolor and oz. of the above red liquor. The\nprocess takes one hour at from 112° to 140° F.\nThe red liquor is made by dissolving 334 oz.\nalum in 1734 oz. water, and adding oz. ace-\ntate of lime, previously dissolved in another\n1734 oz. water. It is let settle, decanted, or fil-\ntered if needful, and set at 234 Tw.— C.\nEosine.— Work the yarn in a soap beck, dry,\nand transfer to a beck of sugar of lead. Rinse\nand dry at a hand heat in an eosine beck. Tho","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0167.jp2"},"166":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n154\nDyeing.\naddition of a little acetic acid gives a yellower\ntone.— C.\nCochineal Red (10 lb.)— Boil 1 lb. best annatto\nwith lb. potash; strain the solution, and\nwork the yarn in it at moderate heat. Wring-,\nand take the yarn twice through a lukewarm\nwater; wring and pass it into the solution of 2\noz. glue, to which 1} oz. nitric acid has been\nadded. Work for quarter of an hour, wring,\nand enter in a tin mordant at 10°— 11° Tw.\nWork for half an hour, wring, and dye with 134\nlb. cochineal.— C.\nWood Red. Steep overnight in 12 lb. sumac;\nnext morning spirit it in nitro-muriate of tin\nat 12° Tw. (cold). Wash off well, and dye with\n10 lb. barwood and 30 lb. Brazil wood at a boil,\nturning for an hour.— G.\nBarwood Red (10 lb.)— Boil out 2 lb. sumac,\nand add the decoction to a water in which the\ngoods are steeped for six hours. Wring out,\nand work in so-called barwood spirit at 2° Tw.\nWring-, and enter in a water at 200° F. with 10\nlb. rasped barwood, raise to aboil, which is\nkept up till the shade is obtained. C.\nGarancine Red on Cotton (11 lb.)— Prepare\nright at a boil with 2 lb. 3 oz. sumac. Dry and\nenter in a beck of red liquor at 7° B., where it\nis left for six hours, with frequent turning.\nTake out, and soak well in a fresh hot beck of\n1734 oz. elutriated chalk and 2 lb. 3 oz. cow\ndung. Rinse and dye in two becks. The first\nconsists of 14 oz. garancine, 534 oz. sumac, and\n7 oz. bran. Enter at 77° F., and raise the heat\nslowly to 167° F. Enter in the second beck,\nconsisting of 273^ oz. garancine, 14 oz. sumac,\nand 7 oz. bran. Enter at 144° F., and raise\nslowly to a boil. The whole time in this second\nbeck is an hour. Rinse, and raise at a boil for\nfifteen minutes, in a beck of 1734 oz. curd soap.\nRinse, and dry.— I?.\nMock Scarlet (10 lb.).— Prepare in 30 gal. hot\nsumac liquor, with 1 lb. turmeric. Give seven\nturns, lift, and pass into a cold water with 1 pt.\ncrimson spirit (nitro-muriate) of a tin (a solu-\ntion of the perchloride) seven turns, wash,\nand enter in 30 gal. hot redwood liquor. Lift,\nwash, and if not full enough, take again through\nthe spirit and the redwood liquor.— C.\nCrimson Liquor for Padding Velvets.— Dis-\nsolve 234 lb. sal ammoniac in 6 qt. hot water\nthen add to it 6 qt. cold water and 9 lb. common\nsalt, stir well until all is dissolved, and strain\nthrough a double cloth into a 12 gal. stoneware\nbowl. Add to the solution 2 qt. gum-tragacanth\nwater, 43*£ gal. sapan liquor at 8° Tw., and 1^4\npt. nitrate of copper at 78° Tw.; stir well for\nthree minutes, add 73^ pt. oxymuriate of tin,\nstir, fill up the bowl with cold water, and strain\nfor use. Pad once through at night and hang-\nup to drain, run through the same liquor next\nmorning and dry. When dry, turn over, expose\nto the air to cool, and after about two hours\nwash in 3 waters and dry.\nIf a more scarlet color is required, add 1 pt.\nblack liquor to the above before padding. C.\nCochineal Scarlet (100 lb.).— Boil 10 lb. annatto\nwith 6 lb. soda ash strain into a tub and enter\nthe yarns in the liquid very hot; leave there\nfor half an hour lift and rinse in very warm\nwater. Dissolve glue, 10 lb.; nitric acid, 734 lb\nPass the yarn into this solution lukewarm for\na quarter of an hour lift, wring, and pass into\na tin mordant at 11° Tw. Keep it under the\nsurface of the liquid for half an hour; lift,\nwring, and dye up in a water containing Cochi-\nneal, 12 lb.; tin composition, 3 lb. Steep for a\nfew hours. Top with magenta if needed.— C.\nCheapest Scarlet (100 lb.).— Pass for two hours\ninto a decoction of 20 lb. turmeric lift, rinse,\nand pass into a water containing 8 lb. sugar of\nlead and 5 lb. alum, for fifteen minutes. Wring\nand dye up in 3 or 4 oz. magenta, according to\nThis scarlet will be blackened by sulphurous\nfumes, and will fade in the sun.— C.\nAzo Reds (110 lb.).— Dissolve in water 63^ lb.\ncurd soap and 2 lb. 3 oz. white glue in water.\nEnter the yarn and work for an hour, wring\nout, and pass into a cold water with perchlo-\nride of tin at Q%° T w. Work for an hour, lift and\nenter in a water of red liquor at 11J4 Tw.\nWork for two hours, lift and pass into a cold\nwater containing more or less of the coloring\nmatter as according to shade. Turn con-\nstantly, and raise the heat slowly to 190° F.,\nlet remain for some time in the hot not, wring\nout, and dry.— C.\nOr, for a cheaper and inferior color\nDissolve sulphate of alumina, 10 per cent, of\nthe weight of the yarn, and convert it into basic\nsulphate by the following process. Add gra-\ndually solution of soda, with constant stirring,\ntill the precipitate formed does not entirely\ndisappear, but leaves a few floating flakes.\nThen make a small quantity of a fresh solution\nof sulphate of alumina and add it very care-\nfully, stirring continually, till these last flakes\nare dissolved, set the liquid at 14° Tw. Enter\nyarns for two hours, turning occasionally, lift\nand dye up in a fresh water with color 10 per\ncent, of the weight of the cotton.— C.\nRoe Color (11 lb.).— Work for an hour at 167°\nF. in a water of 17 oz. catechu. Lift and enter\nin a fresh water at the same heat with M oz.\nchromate of potash. Lift and top in a fresh\nbeck with about oz. alum and 30 to 45 grains\nof fustic. C.\nBright Salmon.— Boil in a water 11 lb. sumac.\nDissolve in the decoction 8% oz. soda crystals,\nand stir in 13% oz. olive oil. Enter yarns, steep\nfor an hour at 140° F.,lift, add to the water 103^\noz. tin crystals, re-enter, turn for half an hour,\nwring and dye to shade in a fresh cold water\nwith 8% oz. aniline orange, wring, rinse, and\ndry.-C.\nLight Slate (60 lb.).— Boil 24 oz. logwood ex-\ntract till dissolved, and add this to a warm\nwater. Give yarns 5 turns, lift, and add 13^ pint\nblack liquor. Three more turns, wash in cold\nwater, and dry.— C.\nMedium Slate (60 lb.).— As above, but take 3\nlb. logwood extract and 3 pt. black liquor.— C.\nDark Slate (60 lb.).— Boil 6 lb. sumac, add the\nliquor to a hot water. Work 5 turns, and wring\nup. Boil 3 lb. logwood extract tiU dissolved,\nand add this to a warm water. Five turns, lift,\nand add 3 pt. black liquor. Give 3 turns more,\nwash in cold water, and dry.\nThese colors may be modulated by using\nalong with the above ingredients small quanti-\nties of fustic and alum.— C.\nSlate on Velvets.— Run 4 or 5 times through\n60 gal. of logwood liquor, and 30 gal. of sumac.\nAdd 4 qt. copperas liquor, run several times,\nwash, and finish.— C.\nTurkey Red on Cotton.— There are several\nprocesses by which this desirable color is pro-\nduced of these the following is considered one\nof the best\nThe goods are first steeped in soft water for\nabout forty-eight hours to remove the sizing.\nA small quantity of malt liquor is usually\nadded to this water to render the starch solu-\nble, by transforming into dextrine and glu-\ncose.\nThe material is next boiled for half an hour\nor more in an acqueous solution of carbonate\nof soda, specific gravity, l Ol, wrung out, and\noiled, by padding in a mixture of rancid oil\nand a very weak lye. For 100 lb. of goods Galli-\npoli oil, 58 lb.; water, 15 gal.; carbonate of soda,\nlb.; carbonate of potassa,-34 lb. When well\noiled the cloth is hung up in the air until it\nfeels dry, then hung up in a stove room heated\nto about 140°, where it is allowed to remain\nfor about twelve hours. These oiling or pad-\nding and drying operations are usually repeated\ntwo or three times, according to the intensity\nof color required.\nIn the next operation the cloth is steeped\nfor twenty-four hours in a cold emulsion com-\nposed of oil, carbonate of soda and water:\nwater, 10 gal.; carbonate of soda, 5 lb.; oil, 50\nlb. This having been pressed out, the pieces","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0168.jp2"},"167":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n155\nDyeing.\nare carefully rinsed in water, and passed slowly\nand repeatedly through the following solution,\nwhich is kept at a temperature of 150° Fah.:\nwater, 30 gal.; ground gall-nuts (or sumac), 10\nlb.; alum, 16 lb. They are then hung up for\nforty-eight hours in the s to veroom, kept at a\ntemperature of 140° Fah.\nNext follows the chalk bath— composed of\nabout ten pounds of floured chalk in fifty gal-\nlons of water heated to about 180° Fah. Through\nthis the pieces are passed, and after rinsing\nout, are ready for the dye beck.\nThe dyestuffs allowed for each piece in the\nbeck are: Madder, 17 to 20 lb.; garancin, 3 to 5\nlb., dissolved in about 300 gallons of water.\nAlizarine is now extensively used as a substi-\ntute for the above dyes.\nWhen the goods are put into the beck, steam\nis let in and the temperature gradually elevated\nduring one and one-half hours to 180° Fah.;\nthen rapidly to near the boiling point, where it\nis maintained for about an hour. At the expi-\nration of this time the pieces are wrung out,\npassed through a washing machine, then\nthrough the chalk bath, rinsed, returned for a\nshort time to the dye beck, and finally washed\nout.\nThe red color thus obtained is dull and dark,\nand to brighten it properly requires three\ncleaning operations. These (or the first two)\nare performed in close boilers about two-\nthirds filled with water. In the first of these\nsoap and carbonate of potassium are dissolved;\nsoap, 6 lb.; carbonate of potassa, 1% lb.; and\nthe dyed goods are boiled therein by steam for\nabout eight hours. After rinsing the pieces\nare boiled in the second boiler, containing, dis-\nsolved in the water, soap, 61b.; chloride of tin, 7\noz. After rinsing this boiling is usually re-\npeated. Finally, the pieces are exposed for\nseveral hours to the atmosphere, then passed\nthrough a hot bran bath, and dried. The result\nis the peculiar deep, rich, and fast red so much\nprized.\nIt is well to remark here, for the benefit of\nthose not skilled in the dyer s art, that success\nin the production of this color on cotton goods\ndepends much upon the attention paid to mat-\nters of detail in carrying out the numerous\noperations, and it is common experience that\nat first good results are obtained only after re-\npeated trials.\nSlate on Cotton Wool (100 lb.).— Extract of\nlogwood, 4 lb., sumac. 20 lb. Boil for fifteen\nminutes, enter the cotton, turn well, and let\nboil for an hour. Lift, drain well, and enter in\na cold water in which have been dissolved, cop-\nperas, 8 lb., blue-stone, 4 lb.— C.\nSlate (10 lb.).— Boil for an hour with soda, y%\nlb. Make a decoction of sumac, 6 oz., enter\nyarns and steep for six hours, wring, and pass\ninto a cold solution of copperas, 3 oz. Give six\nturns, rinse and wring, and pass back to the\nsumac bath for an hour.\nMake a decoction of extract of logwood oz.\nEnter in this for two hours; wring, and pass\ninto another water containing the solution of\nbichromate of potash, 25 grn., and give five\nturns.— C.\nAlizarine Violet (220 lb.). Mordant with\nalizarine oil, and proceed as for a Turkey-red.\nMordant again with sumac, 270 lb., or good pale\nmyrobalans, 200 lb. Dry and pass into water,\n175 qt., with copperas, 76 lb.; blue-stone, 15^4 lb.\nWhen the whole is dissolved, work the cotton\nin the liquid at a boil, wring, wash, and wring\nagain. Dye to shade with alizarine for vio-\nlets, i. e., such as contain no anthrapurpur-\nine. When cold, wash in plenty of water and\nraise with soap only, very neutral, at a boil.\nIf a very blue tone is required, raise with soap\ndissolved in a weak lye of soda-crystals, say\n1H° Tw.-C.\nMethyl Violet (50 lb.). Boil yarn for two\nhours and wring. Make up a cold water with\nnitric acid, 5 oz., and starch, 1J4 lb., previously\nstirred up in cold water. Give a few turns.\nwring, and dye to shade in a lukewarm water\nwith methyl violet, 1 lb.\nOr, work well in a soap-lye, wring, and take\nthrough a solution of chloride of calcium or\nnitrate of lime. Rinse and pass into a very\nweak tannin bath, and dye in clear solution of\nmethyl violet about 7 oz. of dry to 60 lb. vara.\n-C.\nMethyl Violet (22 lb.).— Dissolve tannin, 3y 2\noz., and curd soap, 1 oz., in hot water, add\ncolza oil, }4 oz., and stir till an emulsion is\nformed. Work in this at 167° F. for fifteen\nminutes, lift, and wring. Make up another\nwater at the same beat, with alum, 10^4 oz., and\nthe filtered solution of methyl violet, 2 oz.\nEnter and dye to shade.— C.\nReddish Violet (11 lb.)— Mix starch, 4 lb. 6 oz.,\nin cold water, pour in hot water, stirring con-\nstantly so as to form a smooth, even paste, and\nmake up to 105 pt. at 100° F. Six turns and\nthen steep for fifteen minutes, turning occa-\nsionally. Lift and add to water, 105 pt. at 100°\nF., alum, 1% oz., and soluble aniline violet,\n30 grn. Six turns.— C.\nGentiana Violet (11 lb.).— Boil sumac, 35 oz.,\nor tannin, 2,790 grn., in water, and steep the\nyarn overnight in the clear solution. Wring\nup and dye in a water at 165° F., containing\ngum arabic, 9 oz., adding the dissolved color as\nrequired. Wring, and dry.\nOr, make up a water at 122° F. with tannin,\n80 grn. for each 35 oz. cotton, and turn the\nyarns for four or five hours.\nWring and enter in the dye-beck at 110° F., to\nwhich acetic acid, 775 grn., are added per 11 lb.\ncotton.— 0.\nSpirit Purple (10 lb. Cloth or Yarn).— Prepare\nwith stannate of soda at 10° Tw., sour in vitriol\nat 2° Tw., and wash twice in clean water. Make\nup a machine (tub for yarns) with 30 gal. log-\nwood liquor, run three or four times backward\nand forward, add 4 qt. alum, y% pt. double\nmuriate of tin, and run three or four times\nthrough, and wash off in clean water.\nMake up another machine with 30 gal. log-\nwood liquor and 10 gal. redwood liquor, run\nthree or four times. Add }4 pt. purple spirit\nand 4 qt. alum. Run through several times,\nwash, and finish.— C.\nFine Yellow (60 lb.).— Bleach, mordant in red\nliquor, boil 3 lb. picric acid in 3 gal. water, add\nthis to a warm water, work five turns, and dry.\nC.\nLight Yellow (601b.).— Bleach, boil 3 lb. turme-\nric in 3 gal. water with 3 lb. alum, add this to\na hot water. Work five times, wash, and dry.\n0.\nStraw Yellow (60 lb.).— Mordant with either\nred liquor or nitromuriate of tin. Boil V/% lb.\nextract of fustic in 3 gal. water, and add to a\nwarm water. Work yarn five turns, wash in\ncold water, and dry.— C.\nFast Yellow (60 lb.).— Bleach, dissolve 6 lb.\nbrown sugar of lead in 6 gal. boiling water, and\nadd this to a cold water. Work five turns, and\nwring. Dissolve 2 lb. bichromate of potash, and\nadd it to another cold water. Work yarn five\nturns, wash in 2 cold waters, and dry.— C.\nDark Rust Yellow. Yarns and Cotton Wool\n(110 lb.).— Work up in a hot water 11 lb. yellow\nresin soap with 4 lb. 6 oz. annatto and 2 lb. 3 oz.\nyoung fustic. Steep for half an hour at a boil.\nOld Gold on Cotton (100 lb. yarn).— Boil M lb.\nflavine and dissolve 2 lb. alum. Enter yarn at\n160° F., give eight turns, hang out, add to the\ndye 1 oz. Bismarck brown and Yz lb. redwood.\nRe-enter, turn to shade, wring, and dry.— C.\nBright Yellow (Turmeric).— 72 lb. cloth, say 6\npieces, 70 yd. Run the goods in jigger in hot\nwater to thoroughly and evenly wet them,\nthen to 20 gal. hot water at 140° F. (60° C), add\n7 lb. turmeric, give four ends, then add to the\nsame liquor 4 fl. oz. sulphuric acid at 170° Tw.,\nand give the goods two ends more. After-\nward wash, mangle, and dry.— G.\nChrome Yellow.— 72 lb. cloth. Pad through\nacetate of lead, at strength of 8 oz. per gal.:","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0169.jp2"},"168":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n156\nDyeing.\nthen pass into jigger charged with lime water,\nwash in water, and recharge jigger with 9 gal.\nwater, in which is dissolved 1)4 lb. bichromate\nof potash, give four ends and afterward wash.\nShould the yellow be rather too much of a gold\ncolor, one or two ends in weak hydrochloric\nacid will bring it back.— G.\nYellow Cannelle.— For 100 lb. bleached cotton,\n101b. catechu, 41b. blue vitriol, lb bichro-\nmate. Pass first through the catechu, and\nwring then pass through the bichromate, and\nwash. Kepeat the passes, and wash. Finish\nwith 10 lb. quercitron bark.\nFeather Dyeing. 1. In general terms, clean\nwith carbonate of ammonia, wash, and steep\novernight in solution of nitrate of iron 7°\nB., then rinse in water. Boil out equal parts\nlogwood and quercitron and immerse the\nfeathers at a hand heat. When black, re-\nmove and wash in warm water. Dissolve 3^\noz. bicarbonate of potash in 5 qt. of hot water\nand stir in 17}^ oz. of olive oil, shake until it\nbecomes an emulsion. As before, at a gentle\nheat immerse in this, draw out the surplus\nmoisture between the finger and thumb and\ndry over a stove, constantly shaking them.\nExperience and skill are necessary.\n2. The feathers should be soaked in solution\nof ammonium or sodium carbonate, whereby\nthey are rendered less liable to break or bend\nafter being dyed, they should be dried in a cur-\nrent of warm air. Feathers may be dyed black\nin the following baths a. 10i pt. water, 1 lb.\nignited sodium carbonate; lb. ferric nitrate at\n70° B.; c. 21b. logwood, 21b. quercitrine; lb.\nfeathers is digested in a at 30°, the feathers are\nthen washed with warm water and soaked in Z\nAfter another washing they are boiled in c, un-\ntil of a deep black color; they are then dipped\nin an emulsion formed by agitating oil and\npotassium carbonate together, and dried by\ngently swinging them in warm air.\n3. Black. By immersion for two or three\ndays in a bath (at first hot) of logwood, 8 parts,\nand copperas or acetate of iron, about 1 part.\n4. Intense Blue.— This color is a pale blue. It\nis sometimes, but improperly, called Gens\nd Arm. It is obtained with comparative facil-\nity upon soft, hard or ostrich feather, by an\napplication of indigo carmine and archil. It is\nmore difficult to produce it upon skins, wings,\nand birds. Of course, much indigo carmine\nand little archil should be used. Often, in or-\nder to make blacker, some black varnish is\nadded to either the acidulated bath or to a\nseparate or unacidulated one. This process,\nhowever, is not to be recommended; it is better\nto add a little more archil, and, at the same\ntime, very little curcuma. Orange Z may also\nbe taken.\n5. Marine Blue.— This is a dull color, more or\nless violet tinted. It is obtained f oom indigo\ncarmine and lilac (violet is often substituted\nfor this last color). To produce a deeper tint\nadd a trifle more of archil. Even for very pale\nmarine blue, nothing but indigo carmine and\narchil are sometimes taken. For a flat feather\nthe violet is employed to advantage. As re-\ngards the ostrich, on the contrary, lilac is pre-\nferable, for the violet is easier produced, giv-\ning a more uneven color thon the lilac.\nThe bath should be acidulated with archil,\nnot with sulphuric acid, that being too power-\nful. When the feather is in the boiling bath, in-\ndigo carmine is first poured in, and next a mix-\nture of indigo carmine and lilac. To deepen\nthe dye archil is added (but in exceedingly small\nquantities, as it produces considerable efficacy).\nTime must be given, however, to produce this\neffect, for it is known that archil bites slowly,\nand at a comparatively low rate of tempera-\nture. If too much archil be taken, it will suf-\nfice to give the feather another boiling hot bath\nwith indigo carmine and violet.\nThe white ostrich feather of good quality\neasily takes a marine blue color with indigo\ncarmine and lilac; but that which has been used\na little, and above all the gray, becomes brown\nor rusty almost inevitably, as will be seen when\nwe shall have occasion to speak hereafter of\nmetallic reflects.\nThe difference in the nature of feathers be-\nlonging to one and the same lot is the cause of\na very great inequality— some feathers being\nmore reddish or greenish than others— so that\nafter an energetic heating it is well, in drying\nthe feathers, to range them in order of tint, and\ntreat each species separately, boiling the hard-\nest, or those feathers not reddish enough, long-\nest in the original bath, and giving, on the other\nhand, a boiling hot bath of indigo carmine to\nthose which are too reddish. This operation\nbeing evidently too long, is unfortunately in-\napplicable to cheap feathers.\nFor skins, wings and birds the same processes\nare employed. Much precaution must be had\nthat not too much sorrel salt be used, and above\nall, that the process be effected as quickly as\npossible.\n6. Bronze on Feathers. Fashion has intro-\nduced gilded and silvered feathers. It is chiefly\ngoose feathers and wings of pigeons, which\nappear covered with gold and silver. The\nprocess is very simple. The feather is dipped\nin bronze powder and rubbed with a piece of\nwash leather. In course of wearing, however,\nthe bronze is very easily detached. To prevent\nthis the feather, before being dipped in the\nbronze powder, is taken through gumwater,\npressed nearly dry between cloths, and in its\nslightly adhesive state is treated with bronze\npowder.\nPartially bronzed feathers and wings are pro-\nduced by covering those parts which are to\nremain plain with pasteboard, and the bronze\npowder is rubbed upon the rest with a feather\n—Faerber Zeitung.\n[Of course varied effects may be produced by\ndyeing the feathers with aniline colors, etc.,\nprior to the application of the bronze.]\n7. Feathers may be dyed brown by first treat-\ning them with catechu and then with potassium\nchromate they can be dyed directly with ani-\nline colors, and can be bronzed by painting with\naniline violet dissolved in alcohol at 90%.— Ding.\nPol. Jl.\n8. Pearl gray is a mixture of violet-tinted\nblue, with very little black and much white.\nIt is obtained by the same process that serves\nto make white— that is to say, by a mixture of\nindigo-carmine and violet. 1 shall not now re-\nturn to a description of this procedure, and\nshall only state that in the personation of pearl\ngray the quantities of the coloring matters em-\nployed are somewhat augmented.\n9. Giselle gray is a mixture of white with\nblack. It is easily obtained by dyeing the\nfeather with a small quantity of gloss black.\nAs there is always a residue of yellowish hue it\nbecomes necessary to give it a rose color with\ncochineal. This operation is effected in a cold\nbath acidulated with a small quantity of potas-\ntassium binoxalate. If it be an ostrich feather,\nstarch is dissolved in it.\n10. Silver gray is a mixture of white and blue\ntarnished with black in very small proportion.\nSilver gray is obtained by employing roseate\ngray and blue gray in convenient proportions.\nThese coloring matters are employed much\ndiluted in a clear solution and an acidulated\nbath is prepared with acetic acid or sorrel salt.\nThe bath should be cold and, for an ostrich\nfeather, contain starch it -should be simply\ncold or tepid if a tender feather is to be dyed,\nand a boiling heat in the case of hard feather.\n11. Felt gray is a yellowish gray. Is more re-\ncent than the preceding one, and every way\npreferable. It consists in employing felt gray\nin connection with rose-colored gray. These\ntwo substances, of easy application, will serve\nfor the generality of the tints in question. If\nit were required to produce a somewhat roseate\nhue, cochineal or violet might be taken if, on\nthe contrary, a green one, a very small quantity","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0170.jp2"},"169":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n157\nDyeing.\nof indigo- carmine would be required. These\ncoloring 1 substances are applied, according to\nthe feather and the tone of the color, in a cold,\nlukewarm, or boiling hot bath, acidulated with\nacetic acid or salt of sorrel.\n12. Iron Gray, Steel Gray, etc.— These kinds\nof grays are usually rather darkish the tints\nresult from a mixture of blue, a good deal of\nblack and some white. They are obtained on\nthe feather by means of a conveniently pro-\nportioned mixture of roseate gray and blue\ngray, the shade being subsequently imparted,\nas in the case of the other gray species. Textile\nColorist.\n13. Plum.— The plum color is a pale violet. The\nfeather is dyed in a bath acidulated with sul-\nphuric acid, archil, indigo-carmine and black\ngloss, so that an almost black garnet may be\nproduced. It is well to add a little lilac. The\nfeather is taken out of the bath only at this\nmoment. It is rinsed in pure water and then\ngiven a violet tint in a more or less heated\nsolution of carbonate of soda. During this\noperation the archil turns from red to violet.\nBlack is developed and settles more firmly on\nthe feather, while a large portion of the indigo-\ncarmine goes off. It is a primitive process, and\ncertainly not economical, but which, never-\ntheless, gives good results in skilled hands, but\nin the hands of unskilled operators it is ex-\ntremely tiresome and of doubtful success.\n14. Crimson. A mordant of alum, followed\nby a hot bath of Brazil wood, and afterward by\na weak one of cudbear.\n15. Pink or Rose.— With safflower and lemon\njuice.\n16. Plum.— The red dye, followed by alkaline\n-bath.\n17. Red.— A mordant of alum, followed by a\nhot Brazil wood bath.\n18. Yellow.— An alum mordant, followed by\na bath of turmeric or weld. Other shades may\nbe obtained by a mixture of the above dyes.\nFeathers may also be dyed by simple immer-\nsion for two or three minutes in a bath of any\nof the aniline colors.\nGloves, to Dye. See Kid Gloves below.\nGutta Percha, Dyeing of. After dissolving\n2 oz. of gutta percha in chloroform, add 1 grn.\nof pure carmine, dissolved in a little pulverized\ngum and water. After the chloroform is dis-\ntilled off, the gutta percha is to be thoroughly\nkneaded. Anything may be used in this way,\naccording to the color required, such as ocher,\nultramarine, etc.\nHats, to Dye.— The f ulling-stock may be made\nthe vehicle for dyeing or staining all fancy\ncolors, as drabs, beavers, slates, mouse, tan,\nrosy drabs, and many others. Some makers\npartially dye and then complete the staining in\nthe stocks.\n1. Beaver.— Take 134 lb. copperas, 1 pt. pyro-\nlignite of iron diluted with boiling water, 4 oz.\nHoffmann s aniline blue, 4 oz. indigo extract\n(free from vitriol, or this will turn it green),\nfor 1 doz. hats.\n2. For the fulling-stocks, for 24 doz. 3 oz.\nbodies 1 lb. common graphite (black lead), 3 lb.\nVenetian red, 1 gill indigo extract.\n3. Light.— 2 lb. red lead, 1 oz. indigo extract,\n1 lb. common graphite, 234 lb. terra castle.\nCream color for 24 doz. 3 oz. bodies 2 lb. red\nlead, 2 lb. common terra castle, 2 gills indigo\nextract in liquor, 3 gills orchil.\nFawn color 1% lb. burnt sienna ground fine,\nlb. burnt umber, 34 gill orchil, 34 gill indigo\nextract in liquor.\nMouse color 334 lb. common graphite (black\nlead), 2\\4 lb. best terra castle, 2% gills indigo\nextract in liquor, 4 gills orchil, 8 oz. red lead.\nAn ordinary drab for soft hats lb. com-\nmon graphite, lb. best ditto, 3 gills orchil, 2\ngills indigo extract; put the graphite into a\npan, cover with water, and let down with sul-\nphuric acid at 30° Tw.\nRose 2% lb. common graphite, 2 gills indigo\nextract in liquor, 5 gills orchil.\nSlate 4 lb. common graphite, 4 gills indigo\nextract, 334 gills orchil.\nCinnamon 3«4 lb. red lead, 234 lb. best terra\ncastie, 2)4 oz. picric acid, 34 gill indigo extract,\n3 pts. orchil. The picric acid is first dissolved\nin hot water, and the other ingredients tut;\nadded. See also Straw Dyeing below.\nBismarck Brown on Felt Hats (50 hats).— Pre-\npare with soda as formerly directed and boil\nfor forty-five minutes with 22 lb. fustic, 1034\noz. logwood, 334 lb. sumac, 8% lb. sanders and\n1734 oz. argol. Boil for two hours and add 2 lb.\n3 oz. bluestone and 7 oz. copperas. Re-enter\nthe hats and boil for three-quarters of an hour\nlonger.— R.\nBrown on Mixed Hats (5 doz.).— Prepare with\nsoda and boil for two hours with 22 lb. fustic, 5\nlb. 7 oz. madder, 25% oz. turmeric, 2 lb. 3 oz.\nmadder, 25% oz. sanders and 17J4 oz. argol. Air\nthe hats and add 1734 A. oz. black liquor and 234\noz. copperas. Re-enter the hats and boil again\nfor an hour.— I?.\nChrome Brown on Felt Hats (50 hats). Pre-\npare with 4% oz. chromate of potash, 14 oz.\nargol and 1734 fl. oz. solution of tin. Let the\nhats lie overnight in the flot and dye the next\nmorning in a fresh water with 17J4 oz. young\nfustic, 26 oz. fustic, 1734 oz. turmeric, 6 lb. 9 oz.\nmadder, 3 lb. 4 oz. peachwood, 7 oz. logwood.\nB.\nHorn, to Dye in Imitation of Tortoise Shell.\nOrpiment (yellow arsenic sulphide) is mixed\nwith limewater and applied with a brush.\n2. Use nitrate of mercury. This gives a brown\nstain. The different dyes can be used on the\nsame piece. See also Ivory. See Staining.\nIvory, to Dye.— Billiard Balls, to Color Red.—\nSoak the pieces for a few minutes in weak nitric\nacid, and then in a strong decoction of cochineal\nin ammonia water. Black. Use nitrate of silver\ndissolved in water and expose the pieces to\nstrong sunlight. Or steep for several days in a\ndecoction of 2 lb. logwood, 1 lb. galls, and then\nfor a few hours in acetate of iron (iron liquor).\nGreen.— Steep in a solution of verdigris, to\nwhich a little nitric acid has been added, or in a\nsolution of distilled verdigris in acetic acid.\nSal ammoniac is sometimes added to this solu-\ntion. Do not use metallic vessels. Purple.—\nSteep in a weak aqueous solution of terchloride\nof gold, or boil for some time in a strong aque-\nous solution of logwood extract, and then add\n4oz. of alum to the gal. of solution and con-\ntinue boiling until the ivory is sufficiently\ncolored. Yellow. Steep for twenty-four hours\nin solution of lead acetate, and after drying in\nsolution of potassium bichromate. Or steep\nthe pieces in a saturated solution of orpiment\n(sulphide of arsenic) in strong ammonia and\ndry. The depth of color depends upon the de-\ngree of concentration of the solution. Blue.—\nStain them green and then immerse in hot\nsolution of pearlash. Or boil in logwood de-\ncoction and then in aqueous solution of copper\nsulphate. Or steep them in weak solution of\nsulphate of indigo, to which a little tartaric\nacid has been added. The coal tar colors,\nthough brilliant, are apt to fade. Or by keep-\ning the ivory immersed in a dilute solution of\nsulphate of indigo, partly saturated with pot-\nash, for some time, a fine blue color will be\ngiven to it.\nIvory, Dyes for.— 1. (Red.) a. Make an infu-\nsion of cochineal in water of ammonia, then\nimmerse the pieces therein, having previously\nsoaked them for a few minutes in very weak\naquafortis and water, b. Boil the bones with 1\nlb. of Brazil dust, in 1 gal. of water for three\nhours,then add 34 lb. of alum and boil for one\nhour more.\n2. Black.— a. Immerse the pieces in a weak\nsolution of nitrate of silver for a short time,\nthen expose them to the sunlight, b. Steep for\ntwo or three days in a decoction made with 1\nlb. of galls and 2 lb. of logwood, then steep f oi\na few hours in iron liquor (acetate of iron).","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0171.jp2"},"170":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n158\nDyeing.\n3. G-reen. a. Steep in a solution of verdigris\nto which a little aquafortis has been added, b.\nDissolve distilled verdigris in weak vinegar and\nsteep the pieces therein, c. Steep in a solution\nof 2 parts of verdigris and 1 of sal ammoniac.\nObserve not to use a metallic vessel for the\nabove.\n4. Purple. a. Steep in a weak solution of ter-\nchloride of gold. b. Boil for six hours in a de-\ncoction of 1 lb. of logwood in y^ gal. of water,\nadding more water as it wastes by boiling, then\nadd 2 oz. of alum and boil for 1 hour more.\n5. Yellow. a. Boil for 1 hour in a solution\nmade with 1 lb. of alum in 1 gal. of water, then\ntake out the pieces and steep them in a decoc-\ntion made with y 2 lb. of turmeric in 2 qt. of\nwater; lastly, mix the two liquors and boil\nthem therein for one hour. b. Steep the pieces\nfor twenty-four hours in a solution of sugar of\nlead, then take them out, and when dry, im-\nmerse them in a solution of chromate of po-\ntassa. c. Dissolve as much of the best orpi-\nment in water of ammonia or hartshorn as it\nwill take up, then steep the pieces therein for\ntwenty-four hours lastly take them out and\ndry them, when they will turn yellow. Remark.\nBy diluting the solution with water, any shade\nof yellow may be made.\n6. Blue.— a. Stain them green, then steep\nthem in a hot and strong solution of pearlash.\nb. Boil them in a strong decoction of logwood\nand afterward steep them in a solution of blue\nvitriol, c Steep them for a short time in a\nweak solution of sulphate of indigo, to which a\nlittle salt of tartar has been added; or, still\nbetter, boil them in a dyer s green indigo vat.\nRemarks. The bones of living animals may be\ndyed by mixing madder with their food. The\nbones of young pigeons may thus be tinged of\na rose color in twenty-four hours, and of a\ndeep scarlet in three days; but the bones of\nadult animals take a fortnight to acquire a\nrose color. The bones nearest the heart be-\ncome tinged soonest. In the same way extract\nof logwood will tinge the bones of young\npigeons purple.— Mr. Gibson.\nDyeing Ivory Black.— 1. If the ivory is well\nwashed in an alkaline ley, and is then laid for\nseveral hours in a dilute solution of neutral ni-\ntrate of pure silver, with access of light, it will\nassume a black color, having a slightly green\ncast.\n2. A still finer black may be obtained by boil-\ning the ivory for some time in a strained decoc-\ntion of logwood, and then steeping it in a solu-\ntion of red sulphate or red acetate of iron.\n3. Immerse frequently in common black ink.\nGreen.— 1. This is given by dipping blued\nivory for a little while in solution of nitro-mu-\nriate of tin, and then in a hot decoction of\nfustic.\n2. Boil in solution of verdigris in vinegar until\ndark enough.\nTo Dye Ivory Purple. Steep the ivory in a\nweak neutral solution of terchloride of gold,\nthen expose to the light. Or make a solutionof\nsal-ammoniac into 4 times its weight of nitrous\noxide. Soak the ivory in this. See Staining.\nVegetable Ivory, Dyes for.— For black, lay\nthe articles for several hours in a strong aque-\nous solution of nitrate of silver, and then ex-\npose to strong sunlight or boil in a strong de-\ncoction of logwood and then in solution of ace-\ntate of iron. For blue, immerse for some time\nin a dilute solution of sulphate of indigo, partly\nsaturated with potash. For green, boil in a so-\nlution of verdigris in vinegar. For red, dip the\narticles first in a tin mordant and then into a\nhot decoction of Brazil wood or cochineal.\nScarlet, use lac dye instead of the preceding.\nViolet, dip in the tin mordant and immerse in a\ndecoction of logwood. For yellow, impregnate\nwith nitrohydrochlorate of tin and then digest\nin a strong decoction of fustic. The coal tar\ncolors are now generally used for this and simi-\nlar purposes.\nJute Dyeing. Jute differs markedly in its\nproperties from cotton and linen. It is readily\ndisintegrated by acids, and alkalies, caustic or\neven carbonated, are apt to turn it brown. It\ncontains, however, a certain proportion of tan-\nnin, which enables it to lay hold of certain dyes,\nespecially the aniline colors, more readily than\ncotton. Very high temperatures, and especially\nprolonged boiling, are avoided whenever possi-\nble in the treatment of this fiber.— C.\nDyeing of Jute Yarn.— Dark green for 10 lb.\nyarn. Prepare a hot bath with 1 lb. extract of\nquercitron and 1 lb. alum soak the jute for an\nhour in this, take out, rinse, and pass through\nthe two f ollowing baths. First bath— 10 oz. ni-\ntrate of iron and 2 oz. tin salt after ten turns\ntake out, wring, and pass into the second bath\nof 5 oz. yellow prussiate and 3 oz. red prussiate\ngive ten turns, take out and add 5 oz. sulphuric\nacid after ten turns in this bath, take out and\nwring. Red for 10 lb. bleached yarn Mordant\nfor an hour hot with 7 oz. tannin, wring, and\nplace in a bath of phosphine it is of the great-\nest importance only to employ the very best\nquality of the latter if a bright red is to be pro-\nduced y§ oz. of phosphine will be found suffi-\ncient for 10 lb. of yarn; lastly, the yarn is\npassed through boiling water in which a little\nsaffranine is dissolved. Yellow for 10 lb.\nbleached yarn Place the yarn into a cold bath\nof 3 oz. acetate of lead, give ten turns, take out,\nand wring, and pass into a bath of 3 oz. bichro-\nmate of potash, where it is left until the desired\nshade is obtained to have a dark shade it is\nnecessary to increase the quantity of acetate of\nlead and of the bichromate, and to give it a red-\ndish shade the yarn is afterward passed through\na weak bath of saffranine.\nBlack (54 lb.).— Dissolve 5J^ lb. solid extract of\nlogwood and 17 oz. extract of bark in water.\nSteep the jute for a quarter of an hour in the\nboiling beck, and enter in a fresh cold beck of\n13 oz. red chromate and 8^ oz. bluestone. Give\nseven turns, take out, and re-enter in the log-\nwood beck, in which 21 oz. soda ash have been\ndissolved in the meantime. Seven turns, lift,\nand dissolve 17 oz. copperas in the beck, re-\nenter, five turns, and rinse. G.\nCheap Black (110 lb.).— Take 5 lb. 7oz. extract\nof logwood, 2 lb. 3 oz. lime, and 4 lb. 6 oz. cop-\nperas, and dissolve each separately. Give the\nyarns three turns at a boil in the solution of the-\nextract,, drain, but do not wring; take through\nthe limewater and immediately after through\nthe copperas, giving three turns in each.— C.\nSuperior Black (110 lb.).— Take 7 lb. 6 oz. ex-\ntract and proceed otherwise as above. When\ndrained from the copperas return to the ex-\nBlue (100 lb. yarn).— Dissolve, 2 lb. alum y\nlb. tin crystals, 10 oz. serge blue. Enter yarn,\nand boil for twenty minutes.\nGensd armes Blue (100 lb.).— Dissolve 2 lb.\nalum, \\i lb. tin crystals, 8 oz. serge blue, 3 oz.\naniline green. Enter yarn, and boil for twenty\nminutes.— G.\nBlue (220 lb.).— Dissolve in separate vessels,\nalum, 11 lb. soda crystals, 7 lb. 10 oz. tartar\nemetic, 5 lb. 7 oz. Pour the solutions all at once\ntogether, and let settle. The clear liquid is used\nwith 22 gal. water at 158° F., and the jute is\ndyed, adding the color (previously dissolved in\nwater) by slow degrees till the shade is ob-\ntained. The color is the Bradford Blue of\nthe Baden Aniline Co.— C.\nBlue on Bleached Jute Yarn (110 lb.)— To a\nwarm water at 104° F., add Alum, oz.\nsoda, 3^j oz. tartar emetic, 1% oz. Dye with\nmethyl blue, soluble in water (Baden Aniline\nCompany), using more or less according to\nshade.\nBlue (110 lb. Bleached Yarn).— To a warm\nwater at 104° F., add alum. 17J^ oz.; soda, Z% oz.;\ntartar emetic, 1% oz. Dye to shade in methyl\nblue, soluble in water (Baden Aniline Co.).— C.\nBrown (22 lb.). Make a boiling decoction\nof 334 lb. catechu, dissolve in it 3*4 oz.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0172.jp2"},"171":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n159\nDyeing,.\nblue-stone. Work the jute for an hour.\nWring and make up a second boiling water\nwith 7 oz. bichromate of potash, ten turns,\nrinse and wring. Raise and top in a fresh\nwater with 75 grn. Bismarck brown and 3)4, oz.\nsulphate of soda. For redder shades a little\nmagenta or garnet may be added.— C.\nAnother Brown (11 lb.).— Mordant at a boil\nwith 2 lb. 3 oz. sumac. Give a few turns, lift,\nand add to the beck 1% oz. tin crystals. Give a\nfew more turns, and make up a water with 21b.\n3 oz. logwood, 2-M oz. magenta, 13% oz. alum.\nWork for an hour in the cold, lift, and add 2%\noz. chromate of potash, seven or eight turns,\nrinse and dry.— C.\nBismarck Brown (11 lb.).— Wet out and dye\nwith j£ oz. to 1 oz. vesuvine.— C.\nBrown (11 lb.).— Extract 35 oz. catechu in\nboiling water and dissolve 334 oz. bluestone in\nthe clear. Enter the jute in this for two or\nthree hours at a boil. Lift, and dissolve 8% oz.\nchromate of potash in a boiling water, pass the\njute through this, and then through clear water.\nTop in a fresh water with 80 grn. Bismarck\nbrown, 4J^ oz. alum, and 1734 oz logwood.— C.\nDove Color.— Mordant in red liquor at Tw.\nand 80° F. Dye in fresh water at the same heat,\nwith a very little methyl blue and less saffra-\nnine.— C\nGold (22 lb.).— Enter the bleached yarn for\ntwenty minutes in a lukewarm bath of sugar of\nlead. Wring, and give ten turns in a new cold\nwater containing 7 oz. bichromate of potash,\nand rinse. For deeper shades increase the\nsugar of lead and the bichromate. For redder\ntones take the dyed jute through a lukewarm\nwater containing a little garnet, or a very red\naniline violet, previously dissolved in boiling\nwater.— C.\nGolden Bronze. Work in weak catechu liquor\nat 122° F., then pass into bichromate of potash\nat the same heat, and lastly dye to shade with a\nmixture of phosphine and vesuvine (Baden\nAniline Co.) at 122° F.— C.\nGolden Orange (110 lb.).— Mix 11 lb. alum and\n1734 oz. tin crystals in sufficient water, run off\nthe clear, and steep the jute in it for half an\nhour, and dye at a hand heat in a separate\nwater with chrysoidine and phosphine UN\n(Baden Aniline Company) according to shade.\nAdd a little tartaric acid toward the end, to\nraise the color.— C.\nLight Green (11 lb j.— Mordant for two hours\nin the solution of 7 oz. tannin. Make up a fresh\nwater with 1% oz. malachite green, enter the\njute and work for half an hour. For yellower\ntones add to the dye beck picric acid or aniline\nyellow.— C.\nFast Green (22 lb.).— Work for half an hour\nin a hot water containing 27% oz. extract of\nbark and 14 oz. sulphate of alumina. Wring,\nand prepare two waters a. 15^ oz. nitrate of\niron and 334 oz. tin crystals b. 3% oz. yellow\nprussiate. Work for twenty minutes in a;\nwring, and pass into b. Ten turns, lift, and\nadd 14 oz. sulphuric acid ten turns more, lift,\nwring, rinse and dry.— C.\nNight Green (11 lb.).— Prepare at a boil for\nthree hours with the clear decoction of 8f£ oz.\nsumac. Wring, and enter in a beck of 1% oz.\nmethyl green. If a yellower tone is wanted a\nlittle picric acid may be added.— C.\nGreen (110 lb.).— Mordant with red liquor at\n434° Tw. and 1734 oz. tin crystals. Let steep an\nhour, enter in a strong hot decoction of fustic,\nwring out and dye in a fresh water with\n1734 oz. alum and acid green (vert a Vacide, of\nMonnet Co.) according to shade.— C.\nAniline Green (45 lb.).— Prepare hot with 5\nlb. sumac for one hour, and then mordant with\n4 lb. alum and 234 lb. sugar of lead Let it lie\nfor a couple of hours, and dye it warm with\nthe aniline green previously dissolved.— C.\nLight Green (11 lb.).— Boil out 8% oz. sumac\nsteep for three hours in the clear boiling liquor.\nLift, and make up a fresh cold water with\nmethyl green enter and work till level. For\nyellower tones add picric acid.— C.\nMode Green on Jute Yarn (110 lb.).— Mix 3\nparts fustic liquor and 1 part logwood liquor\nwith the necessary quantity of water at 12^° F.,\nten turns, lift, add 34 oz. each copperas and\nbluestone; re-enter, turn well, and wash. Top\nat 86* F. with vesuvine and a little methyl\nblue (of the Baden Aniline Co.).— C.\nGray (11 lb.).— Boil 17 oz. sumac in water, and\nsteep the jute for an hour in the liquid. Lift,\nand dissolve the same weight of copperas. En-\nter the yarns, and dye to shade. For a blue\ngray make up a fresh beck at 77° F. with 17 oz.\nalum and oz. extract of indigo. Add a very\nlittle solution of magenta, enter the jute, and\ndye to shade.— C.\nMode Gray (11 lb.).— Boil 17 oz. prepared\ncatechu, add solution to a water at 100° F., and\ndissolve therein 1% oz. bluestone. Wet out the\njute at 100° F., enter, and work for an hour.\nLift, and add the solution of 1% oz. chromate of\npotash; re-enter, work to shade, rinse, and\ndry.-C.\nPansy (11 lb.).— Wet out perfectly at 100° F.,\nlift and add 34 oz., or a little more of dissolved\nviolet (Hofmann sor methyl). Enter, five turns,\nand dry.— C.\nRed (11 lb.).— Mordant hot for an hour with\n8% oz. tannin lift, wring, and enter in a beck\nof phosphine or aniline orange, and top with a\nsolution of saffranine at 113° F.\nIf aniline orange is too dear, yellow coralline\nmay be used.— C.\nCrimson (11 lb.).— Wet out perfectly in water at\n100° F., and dye with 34 oz. to 34 oz. magenta.\nC.\nWood Red (25 lb.).— Dye the half bleached\nyarn, hot, with lb. annatto which has been\nboiled with 6 oz. soda ash. Steep the yarns for\nan hour in the solution. Wring and enter in a\ncold water with 2 lb. stannate of soda. Lift,\nand enter in a lukewarm water with 4 to 5 lb.\nalum turn for half an hour, wring, and dye up\nwith peachwood liquor (12 lb. wood).— C.\nWood Crimson (25 lb.). Make a decoction of\n4 lb. sumac, add it to a hot water, and steep the\nyarn overnight; wring, spirit with stannate or\nnitro-muriate of tin, and dye in peachwood\nliquor.— C.\nAzo Red (110 lb.).— Dissolve 11 lb. cake alum,\nand add so much solution of soda that the pre-\ncipitated form ceases to disappear entirely on\nstirring the liquid. Then add a little of a fresh\nsolution till the last traces of the precipitate\nare just dissolved. Set the solution at 14° Tw.;\nenter the clear goods, and work for two hours,\nturning occasionaUy. Lift, and pass into a fresh\nwater, containing 1 lb. dye for 10 lb. yarn.\nThe same process is applicable to hemp.— C.\nScarlet on Jute Yarn.— Mordant with red\nliquor at 834° Tw. and 122° F.\nDye to shade in a fresh water at the same\nheat with ecarlate R R (of P. Monnet Co.,\nGeneva).— C\nRose on Bleached Jute Yarn.— Mordant at\n122° F. in red liquor at 8° Tw., and dye in a fresh\nwater with saffranine at the same heat.\nKid Gloves, to Dye.— The gloves are stretched\nover a wooden hand, and the color is spread\nupon them with a brush.\nBlack.— The glove is washed in alcohol, and\nthree times brushed over with a decoction of\nlogwood, allowing between each brushing ten\nminutes for drying afterward dipped into so-\nlution of iron protosulphate. and then brushed\nwith warm water. Should the color not prove\nsufficiently dark, a decoction of quercitron\nmay be added to the logwood decoction. In-\nstead of the protosulphate, some nitrate of\niron may be used. As the leather begins to dry,\nit is rubbed over with talc powder and some\nolive oil, and pressed between flannel. The\ntreatment with talc and oil is repeated, and the\nglove then allowed to dry on the stretch- wood.\nBrown.— The solution is made up of varying\nquantities of decoctions of logwood and Guinea","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0173.jp2"},"172":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n160\nDyeing.\nwood. For darkening, a small quantity of\niron protosulphate is employed.\nRussia- red.— Decoction of cochineal with a\ntin salt and some saccharic acid, and, if a dark\ntint is demanded, addition of some logwood\nextract.\nGray.— Brushing with decoction of sumac\nand subsequent treatment with a feeble solu-\ntion of iron protosulphate. Addition of log-\nwood and yellow Brazilwood to the sumac de-\ncoction produces a greenish gray tint.— R.\nThe aniline colors can be employed without\nany previous preparation of the leather. The\nbluish tint so greatly liked in black gloves is\nobtained by washing the finished article with\nsal ammoniac solution. If it is required to\nkeep the seams white, they are covered with\nflour paste with which some fat has been ad-\nmixed. Instead of brushes, one may some-\ntimes use a sponge.— Ding. Polyt. Journ.\nKid gloves of good quality, especially when\nlight colored, are often thrown away when\nsoiled, and made no further use of. By em-\nploying the following simple means, they might\neasily be dyed violet, black, or yellow, by the\nowner himself, and made to look almost equal\nt new The gloves are first soaked in a little\nhot water containing dissolved crystals of soda\nor potash, whichever color may be desired, and\nafter a twenty-five minutes bath they are\ntaken out, washed, rinsed, and wrung. When\nthe gloves are thus cleaned, they are stretched\ntightly on a block, and the dye applied.\nStraw. After cleaning as in white and rins-\ning well in water, two baths are prepared 1.\nA bath of soda at B. 2. A bath of nitrate of\niron at the same strength.\nThe gloves are brushed first with No. 1, then\ndried and brushed with No. 2, and finally with\nwater, and dried at a gentle heat. They are\nthen finished with the following mixture:\nYelk of egg, 155 grn.; glycerine, 77 grn.; water,\n1% pt. When half dried they are rubbed with\nclean flannel.\nFor modes and grays they are cleaned with\nsoap in the usual manner, and after they have\nbeen brushed with water, they are brushed\nover with the following mixture at 104° F.:\nLogwood, 45 grn.; orchil, 8V oz.; water, 1% pt.\nBoil. A second bath is prepared of 30 grn. of\nnitrate of iron in 35 oz. of water, and is applied\nwith the brush to produce a gray tone.\nViolet. According to the tint desired, aniline\nor orseille violet must be used. Apply a little of\nthe color by means of a brush or rag dipped in\nthe coloring liquid. Lay on several coats of alum\ndissolved in water; then dry. Then apply one\nor two layers of the dye, which must be always\nhot. The kid is polished, before finally drying,\nwith a pad made of a cork covered with a piece\nof woolen cloth. This is the best way of re-\ngaining the gloss.\nBlack.— The same means are employed\nthroughout.\nYellow.— This requires a less complicated\nprocess— a decoction of Avignon crystals with\nalum. Apply several layers, and polish the kid\nin the way indicated above.— Text. Manuf.\nSimple decoction of onion peel is said to pro-\nduce upon glove leather an orange yellow su-\nperior in luster to any other. It is also said to\nbe suitable for mixing with light bark shades,\nespecially willow bark, and as a yellow for mo-\ndulating browns. The onion dye is said to\nfix itself readily, even upon leathers which re-\nsists colors, and colors them well and evenly.\nChem. Rev.\nWhite.— The gloves are placed on a wooden\nhand, and then brushed over with a soft paint\nbrush steeped in curd soap, 155 grn.; milk, 35\nfluid oz. They are then dusted over with fine\nVenice talc, and rubbed with a bit of clean\nflannel. If this process does not leave them\nwhite enough, it is recommended.\nLeather, Dyeing of— Aniline Colors for Dye-\ning Leather.— (Aniline colors of the Berlin Co.\nreferred to.)\n1. For the production of so-called Russian\nred formerly obtained with the redwoods,\nalong with a solution of tin and the occasional\naddition of alum or of tartar— the Juchten-\nrath or leather-red is recommended. It is\nproduced in three shades G, light; G R,\nmedium; and R, dark. The color required is\nsimply dissolved in 100 parts of clean, soft, boil-\ning water, condensed steam- water being very\nsuitable. The solution thus obtained is left to\nsettle for two or three hours, and the clear\nliquid is then taken in greater or less quantity,\naccording to the size of the pair of skins to be\ntreated, diluted with warm water, and is then\nready for use. It is not desirable to use a con-\ncentrated bath at the outset. The first pair of\nskins is therefore dipped at the beginning in a\nvery dilute bath. They are then taken through\na second and a third, each stronger than the\nforegoing. The second pair of skins is dipped\nin the second of the baths already used, then in\nthe third, and lastly in a new bath as strong as\nthe third before it had been used. Thus each\nbath is used three times, and each pair of skins\nis passed through two old baths and one new\none. In this manner the color is thoroughly\nused up, and an even shade is obtained on the\nthe skins, which, if entered at once in a strong\ndye-bath, would take the color irregularly, and\nbecome cloudy. When dyed, the skins are\nplunged in pure cold water, rinsed, placed on\nthe stretcher, and slightly oiled. If birch-oil is\nused, for the sake of the peculiar odor of Rus-\nsian leather which it imparts, care must be\ntaken that no free acid is present, as always\nhappens if the oil has been sophisticated with\nwood-tar; it must be carefully neutralized\nwith carbonate of soda. The dyed leather\nshould be rapidly dried in a room specially fit-\nted up, as the aniline colors can endure higher\ntemperatures than shades obtained from the\nwoods. For moistening the leather for the sub-\nsequent finishing operations, very dilute solu-\ntions of G may be used.\n2. A fourth shade, GG, gives a yellower red.\n3. Another, Red S, gives the cochineal\nshades, especially pink. In the use of this dye\nthe bath must be made as hot as the leather can\nbear.\n4. An addition of saffron safflower or\nsaffranine) decoction, as in the treatment with\ncochineal dyes, enhances the brilliancy of the\ncolor.\n5. Most yellow dyes derived from coal-tar\nproduce dark spots on such portions of the\ngrain-side of the leather as have been scratched\nor scraped. Certain colors, however, prepared\nby the Berlin Company are free from this de-\nfect. Phosphine-orange gives the brightest\nand most intensely yellow of the yellowish-\nbrown shades, commonly termed almond-yel-\nlow. It requires 500 parts of water for solu-\ntion, and must be boiled till no residue remains.\nThe liquid is then ready for use at once with-\nout dilution. If a less fiery shade is wanted,\ntreatment with a solution of bichromate of\npotash lessens the vividness of the dye.\n6. For a gold-orange color, the Philadelphia\nyellow of the same company is recommended,\ndissolved in 300 parts of water.\n7. A redder shade is produced by Berlin\nbrown G, which is well fitted for reddening\nthe darker shades produced with the dye-\nwoods.\n8. A pure orange may be obtained with\ncorallin dissolved in 150 -parts of water. It\nmust be dyed and afterward dried as rapidly\nas possible, as it has a tendency to fade.\n9. A half -dark subdued blue is produced\nwith marine blue dissolved in 300 parts of\nwater. The skins must not be previously passed\nthrough dilute sulphuric acid.\n10. For a pure light blue, water-blue B B\nis taken and for redder shades, water-blue\nR.\n11. Dark blues were formerly obtained by\nthe use of a red dye-ware over a vatted","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0174.jp2"},"173":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n161\nDyeing.\nground. The result is better obtained by\ngrounding in water-blue R, and topping\nwitb nigrosin dissolved in 300 parts of boil-\ning water. Nigrosin applied directly to leather\ndyes uneven shades.\n12. Methyl-green is much used for topping\nskins which have been dyed green with extract\nof indigo and fustic. All sulphuric acid must\nfirst be carefully washed away.\n13. Methyl- violet can be successfully used\neven on the worst skins.\n14. The B variety yields blue shades, and\nthe R produces red shades. The color is dis-\nsolved in boiling water, but may be used cold.\nChem. Neivs.\n1. Blacks.— 34 gal. vinegar, J^ lb. dry lamp-\nblack, 31b. sifted iron rust; mix, let stand for a\nweek, lay three coats on hot; and rub with lin-\nseed oil. See also Blacking.\n2. 14, lb. good galls, well broken, 34 lb. logwood,\n3 oz, iron sulphate; makes about 2 gal.\n3. Wet with iron liquor and rub with a piece\nof iron; then oil, or give a dressing of composi-\ntion made by melting 2 oz. black rosin and\nadding 3 oz. beeswax. When thoroughly melt-\ned take from the fire and add Y% oz. fine lamp-\nblack, which has had M drm. Prussian blue\nmixed with it; thin with turps just before it\ngets too cold. Apply a coat of this with a rag,\nand polish with a soft brush.\n4. Ball Black.— For harness leather straps this\nis made of 34 oz. isinglass, 34 oz. indigo, 4 oz.\nlogwood, 2 oz. soft soap, 4 oz. glue, softened,\nand 1 pt. vinegar; the whole is mixed, warmed,\nstrained, and allowed to cool, when it is ready\nfor use.\n5. Hatters 1 Black.— This black is unequaled\nfor finishing. It is made by dissolving 1 lb. ex-\ntract of logwood, J^j oz. bichromate of potash,\nand 1 oz. copperas in 1 gal. water.\n6. Patent Leather Black.— Mix together 3^ lb.\neach of ivory black, purified lampblack and\npulverized indigo, 3 oz. dissolved gum arabic, 4\noz. brown sugar and 34 oz. glue, dissolved in 1 pt.\nwater; heat the whole to boil over a slow fire,\nthen remove and stir until cool, and roll into\nballs.\n7. Vinegar Black.— This is the most simple\nand useful coloring liquid for the trimming\nshop for blacking leather straps. To make the\nsimplest, and without doubt the best, procure\nshavings from an ironturner, and cover them\nwith pure cider vinegar; heat up and set aside\nfor a week or two, then heat again and set in\na cool place for two weeks pour off the vine-\ngar, allow it to stand for a few days, drain off,\nand cork up in bottles. This will keep a long\ntime, and while producing a deep black on\nleather, it will not stain the hands.\n8. 4*2 oz. bruised gallnuts and 17*5 oz. green\nnutshells are boiled in 26*25 oz. rainwater; when\nthe mixture has boiled one hour the liquor is\nstrained through a cloth; the leather to be col-\nored is first stained with the solution of iron\nfilings, common salt and vinegar, as given un-\nder purple, before the above decoction is ap-\nplied.\n9. Black on Leather.— Dissolve 1% oz. solid\nlogwood extract and oz. solid fustic extract\nin boiling water, and make up to 35 fluid oz.\nThe leather, which must have been previously\ncleaned and stretched out, is brushed over five\ntimes at 100° Fah.; 155 grn. of chromate of pot-\nash and 77grn. bluestone are then dissolved in\nthe same quantity of water; the leather is\nbrushed twice with the solution, and then again\nwith the decoction of logwood: 150 grn. of liquid\nammonia are then poured into 35 fluid oz. of\nwater, and the leather is gone over with that.\nTo make the leather supple, stir up 150 grn. yelk\nof egg in 75 grn. of glycerine, make it up with\nwater to 35 fluid oz., and rub the leather with\nit. Let it get half dry, and rub with a clean\nwoolen rag.— R.\nBlue Black.— The following is recommended\nas a good composition for dyeing leather a blue\nblack: Beeswax, 3 oz.; black resin ?oz.- melt\ntogether, and then add Prussian blue, 1 oz.;\nlampblack, 3-i oz. While the mixture is cooling,\nadd turpentine till a suitable consistency is\nobtained. It should be applied with a soft rag,\nand the leather afterward polished with a\nbrush.\nStaining Light Leather, Black.— Simple treat-\nment with solution of iron sulphate or copperas\nwill dye leather black. Acetate of iron may be\nused instead of above with advantage. The\nleather may first be mordanted with solution of\nlogwood extract.\nBlue on Leather.— 1. Extract 155 grn. of gall-\nnuts in 35 fl. oz. of water and bi ush over. Dis-\nsolve 155 grn. of soluble aniline blue and 75 grn.\nof glue in 35 fl. oz. of water. Brush over three\ntimes; dry and finish with yelk of egg.—R.\n2. 2*2 lb. elderberries are boiled with 1*05 oz.\nalum, free from iron, in 2*2 lb. wine vine-\ngar, and this solution is also filtered. If leather\nis to be colored blue, the decoction of elder-\nberries is applied uniformly with a sponge.\nWhen the coating is dry, it is brushed over\nlightly with solution of blue vitriol in vine-\ngar.\nBrowns, Russets, Reds, Yellows.— The use of\nrusset and brown leather for reins necessitates\nthe employment of stains of various shades in\nthe workshop in order that the reins or other\nstraps may be of a uniform color after being\nworked. In most cases rein leather is stained\nby the currier, but when worked the freshly\ncut edges need to be stained to correspond with\nthe grain. The stains used are generally made\nof Spanish saffron and annatto, or of saffron\nalone, made up in various ways, the most com-\nmon and reliable being the following 1. Boil\na given amount of saffron in water until the\ncolor is extracted; cut a quantity of annatto\nin urine and mix the two together, the propor-\ntions of each determining the shade. The more\nannatto used the darker is the color.\n2. Another manner of preparing this stain is\nto boil y 2 oz. Spanish saffron and 34 oz. annatto\nin water until the dye is extracted, to which\nmust be added some alcohol to set the color.\n3. To make a stain of saffron alone, boil a\nquantity in water until the dye is extracted\nstrain off, and when cold add alcohol in order\nto set the color. The shade may be changed\nby adding oxalic acid in varying quantities,\naccording to the color required. The propor-\ntion cannot be given with any degree of ac-\ncuracy, as the color is a matter of taste and\ncan be regulated by using greater or less pro-\nportions of each article.\n4. Another saffron stain is made by boiling\nsaffron in a small quantity of water until the\ncolor is extracted, and reducing with urine. In\nusing any of these stains apply them with a\ncloth, and when nearly dry rub with a woolen\nrag slightly waxed.\n5. A yellow stain is produced by boiling fustic\nberries in alum water the shade may be dark-\nened by the addition of a small quantity of\npewdered Brazil wood boiled with the berries.\n6. Another yellowish-red stain is made of\nBrazil wood and yellow berries in proportion\nto suit, boiling them in water until the color-\ning matter is extracted. This can be applied\nto sides that have not been stained, when in-\ntended for flat reins, halters, etc., in the fol-\nlowing manner: Lay the leather upon a table\nand rub the flesh side with a warm stretching\niron turn it over and moisten the grain side\nwith water, and rub with a copper stretching\niron until the leather is nearly dry then apply\nthe coloring matter to the grain and rub with\na copper slicker. When the leather is perfectly\ndry rub the grain with a glass slicker. An edge\nstain is made by adding a small quantity of\nalum to the above-mentioned ingredients.\n7. A brown stain is made by boiling equal\nparts of pine and alder barks in six times their\nbulk of water until all the coloring matter is\nextracted, and when cold adding a small\nquantity of alcohol. Saffron boiled for twelve","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0175.jp2"},"174":{"fulltext":"I yeing.\n162\nDyeing.\nor fifteen hours gives a good brown stain, to\nwhich alcohol must be added to make it set.\n8. Picric acid and water, in proportions of 1\nto 10, heated to a blood heat, make a good yel-\nlow stain. Weld boiled in water also makes a\nyellow stain. An orange-yellow is produced\nby boiling- fustic berries in alum water. This\nstain may be converted into a rich brown by\nwashing the leather to which it has been ap-\nplied, before the stain is fairly dry, with an\nalkali.\n9. A red stain is produced by boiling Brazil\nwood in lye. If mixed with weld it produces\na brownish yellow, well adapted for use on\nhalters and bridles.\n10. An edge stain for russet leather is made\nby cutting 11 oz. annatto in 2 qt. urine, allow-\ning it to stand for twenty-four hours, then\nadding 3 qt. water and boiling until reduced to\none-half the original quantity. All stains ap-\npear to better advantage, and are rendered\nmore durable, by being covered with a shellac\nvarnish, which should be applied after the reins\nare all dry, and then finished up. The shellac\nshould be applied with a sponge.\n11. A bright orange stain is made by mixing\nyellow aniline with alum water.\n12. 1 oz. oxalic acid, 1 oz. spirits of salts, 1 scr.\nbruised cochineal and 1 pt. boiling water, make\na good brown stain.\n13. Another red stain is made by dissolving 1\noz. cochineal in y% pt. hot water, and adding 1\ngill spirits of hartshorn.\n14. A bright crimson stain is alum or tin salts\nand a decoction of cochineal.\n15. For sole leather, 185 dr. Paris yellow, 37\ndr. chrome yellow, 312 dr. pipeclay, 250 dr. alum,\n250 dr. quercitron, 185 dr. sulphuric acid, 1% pt.\ntragacanth solution, boiled together with 7 pt.\nwater, and the mixture, when cold, suitably\napplied.\n16. Brown on Leather.— Dissolve 75 grn. of\ntannin in 35 fluid oz. Bismarck, and brush the\nstretched leather. Dissolve 75 grn. Bismarck\nbrown and 45 grn. white glue in 35 fluid oz.\nwater, and brush at 100° Fahr. If a darker\nshade is desired, brush over with a solution of\n15 to 45 grn. of methyl violet in 35 fluid oz.\nwater, and let dry. Finish with yelk of egg as\nabove.— B.\n17. Brown.— 17*5 oz. dried and powdered nut-\nshells are boiled for one hour in 52*5 oz. milk of\nlime, and strained through a cloth. This de-\ncoction is applied frequently to the leather.\n4*2 oz. ground logwood, 4 2 oz. annatto are boiled\nin 17 5 oz. rain water, and a solution of 0 52 oz.\ncarbonate of potash in 2 62 oz. vinegar is added\nto the above decoction.\n18. A brown stain is also obtained by rubbing\ntogether upon a marble slab, 4 2 oz. umber, 0*52\noz. finest lampblack, in oil, with 17*5 oz. ox-\ngall.\n19. Yellow. 0*52 oz. saffron, cut in small\npieces, are digested in 2*1 oz. alcohol 801 strong,\nfor several days at a moderate heat. The solu-\ntion is filtered, and applied directly to the\nleather.\n20. Yellow.— 17*5 oz. ground yellow wood or\n17 5 oz. birch leaves are boiled for one hour in\n2 2 lb. vinegar, and the fluid is strained. The\narticles to be stained are first covered with a\nsolution of 1 05 oz. carbonate of potash, with a\nsponge to the leather, which has first been\nstretched, and when this has become dry, apply\nthe coloring liquor also with a sponge.\n21. Bright Yellow.— P05 oz. finely powdered\nturmeric and 052 oz. gamboge are digested at a\ngentle heat for a few days in 26 25 oz. alcohol\n8U% strong, and the fluid is then filtered. The\nprocess is the same as 20, either with or with-\nout alum or carbonate of potash.\n22. 17*5 oz. barberries are boiled in 2*2 lb.\nwater, and the decoction is filtered. In this\ncase also a solution of alum or carbonate of\npotash in water is used before applying the de-\ncoction to the article.\n23. Yellow.— 17 5 oz. wold are boiled in 3*3 lb.\nwater for one hour, and used in the same\nmanner as 22.\n24. Yellow on Leather.— Brush over with a\nsolution of soda at Yq° Baume, dry and brush\nover with nitrate of iron at the same strength;\nrepeat, if not dark enough. Finish with yelk\nof egg. This will be a buff rather than a\nyellow.— B.\nGray on Leather.— Dissolve 155 grn. of tan-\nnin in 35 fluid oz. of water, and brush. Dis-\nsolve 30 grn. of copperas in 35 fluid oz. of water\nand brush. If not dark enough, repeat. Dry\nand rub with rye meal.— B.\nGreen.— 1. T57 oz. verdigris and 0*52 oz. sal\nammoniac are dissolved in 8*75 oz. wine vinegar.\nIf a small quantity of saffron extract is added\nto this, a yellowish -green color, the so-called\nparrot-green, is obtained. 2. If leather is first\ncoated with a solution of Berlin blue, and then\nwith a yellow stain, a beautiful durable green\nwill be obtained.\nGreen on Leather.— Extract oz. of gall-\nnuts in 35 fluid oz. of water, and brush over\nthe leather three times; dissolve 155 grn. ex-\ntract of indigo and the same weight of alum in\n35 fluid oz. of water, and brush over and dry\nwith the cold solution. Dissolve 155 grn. ex-\ntract of fustic in the same quantity of water,\nand brush twice. Dissolve 77 grn. glue in the\nsame quantity of water; dry, and finish with\nyelk of egg as above.— B.\nLilac on Leather. Dissolve 155 grn. of tannin\nin 35 oz. of water, and brush. Then dissolve\n77,155, or 30 grn. methyl violet, according to\nshade, in 35 fluid oz. of water, and brush over\nthrice. Dissolve 155 grn. of glue and the same\nweight of glycerine in 35 fluid oz. of water,\nbrush and dry.— B.\nMode on Leather.— Extract 45 grn. of log-\nwood in 35 fluid oz. of water, and dissolve it in\n30 grn. of orchil. Brush the leather with the\nsolution at 110° Fahr. Next dissolve 30 grn.\ncopperas in 35 fluid oz. of water; brush with the\nsolution, and then brush with water. If a\nreddish tint is desired, dissolve along with the\ncopperas 30 grn. of alum. When dry rub the\nleather with a woolen rag and rye meal.— B.\nPurple.— 8*75 oz. Brazil wood shavings, or 2T\noz. scarlet berries, are boiled in 2 2 lb. water in\nan earthen pot or in a bright copper boiler.\nThe decoction is filtered and compounded with\na sufficient quantity of fluid chloride of zinc to\nobtain either a lighter or a darker color.\nCrimson.— A solution of 0T4 oz. cochineal,\n0*14 oz. cream of tartar, 0 42 oz. solution of\nzinc, is prepared. The mixture is thoroughly\nshaken, and the contents of the bottle are ex-\nposed to heat for twenty-four hours. Spirit of\nsal-ammoniac is then added in drops until the\ndesired color is obtained.\nRed.— 1. 8 75oz. shavings red Brazil wood are\nplaced in a bottle, 2*2 lb. wine vinegar is poured\nover them, and they are digested for eight\ndays, and stirred frequently in the meanwhile.\nThe solution is then filtered through a cloth.\nMeantime a solution of 1*05 oz. alum free from\niron in 8*75 oz. water is prepared and the above\npreparation of Brazil wood is added to this\nunder constant stirring. A very beautiful red\nis obtained in this manner. The shavings of\nBrazil wood may also be boiled in rain water,\nand this be compounded with a solution of\nbitartrate of potash.\n2. Cochineal.— P05 oz. of the finest cochineal\nis powdered and digested in* 17*5 oz. alcohol 80/1\nstrong, until it is dissolved; the solution is then\nfiltered. More or less cochineal is taken ac-\ncording as the color is required to be darker or\nlighter.\n3. Scarlet.— 1*05 oz. scarlet berries are bruised\nand dissolved in 4*2 oz. alcohol, 801 strong, and\nthe solution is filtered.\nViolet.— 17 5 oz. Brazil wood are boiled for\none hour in 0*44 oz. water, and the decoction is\nthen filtered. Another solution of 4*2 oz. cop-\nperas in 8 75 oz. water is prepared, and this is","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0176.jp2"},"175":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n163\nDyeing.\nmixed with the decoction of Brazil wood.\nViolet stains are also obtained by mixing red\nand bine stains together.\nLinen Dyeing.— The properties of linen as\nfar as its behavior with mordants and dye wares\nis concerned, do not essentially differ from\nthose of cotton. It is, however, less able to re-\nsist strong acids and chemicals. The propor-\ntion of linen goods dyed and printed is but\nsmall in comparison with those sold in the\nwhite state. Coarse linen yarns are very largely\nused in the warps of certain classes of carpet-\ning.— ft\nBlack (50 lb. yarn) —Boil 10 pails of decoction\nof logwood with 2 lb. bluestone and 2 lb. soda\nash. When dissolved, cool down to 180° F.,\nenter the yarn dry, and work for twenty min-\nutes. Lift, rinse and dry.— ft\nBlack Linen Sewing Thread.— Wet out in boil-\ning water, and enter in a water at 212° F.,\nmade up of 17 oz. solid extract of logwood, and\n3% oz. solid extract of bark. Work for an hour,\nlift, and hang out in the air for twelve hours.\nRe-enter in the extract beck, which should be\nat 88° F give eight turns and lift. Work for\na quarter of an hour in a fresh cold water,with\n634 oz. bluestone, lift, and dissolve 17 oz. soda\nash in the old extract bath. Enter yarns and\ngive ten turns. Lift, return to the bluestone\nwater, seven turns. Take out, return to the\n.extract beck, and give seven more turns.— ft\nNext dissolve in the bluestone water 7 oz.\ncopperas. Enter yarns, give ten turns, and re-\nturn to the extract bath for 7 turns. .Make up\na fresh boiling water with 8% oz. curd soap,\nand give seven turns. Oil or glycerine may be\nadded to the soap beck to insure softness.— ft\nBlack (40 lb.).— Steep for an hour in a solution\nof 4 lb. extract of logwood. Squeeze well and\npass eight times through a cold water with 7J\noz. bichromate and 12 oz. bluestone. Take out\nand squeeze, and dissolve in the old extract\nbeck 1 lb. soda ash. Enter, heat to 167° P., take\nout, squeeze again, dissolve in the beck 1 lb.\ncopperas. Work for half an hour, and rinse.\nTo hinder the goods from smearing take\nthrough a water containing a little gum.— ft\nFast Black (50 lb. yarn.).— Steep overnight in\nthe hot decoction of 15 lb. sumac. In the morn-\ning lift and take through a warm water made\nup with 5 lb. copperas, 1 lb. bluestone, and 2 lb.\nwhiting. Work in a cold, weak limewater,\nrinse, and return to the sumac cistern, to which\nmust be previously added six pails decoction of\nlogwood, and 1 lb. of starch paste.— ft\nDyeing and Finishing Black Linen Sewing\nThread (11 lb.). Wet out in boiling water, and\nenter in a beck at 212° F., made up of 17J4 oz.\nsolid extract of logwood, and 334 oz. solid ex-\ntract of bark. Work for an hour, lift, and\nhang out in the air for twelve hours. Keturn\nnow to the extract beck, which should be at\nabout 88° F., give eight turns and take out.\nWork for a quarter of an hour in a fresh cold\nbeck of 634 oz. blue vitriol take out and dis-\nsolve in the old logwood beck 17J4 oz. of soda\nash. Enter and give ten turns. Take out, re-\nturn to the blue vitriol beck, give seven turns.\nTake out, return to the extract beck, and give\nseven more turns. Next, dissolve in the blue\nvitriol beck 7 oz. copperas, enter the yarn, give\nten turns, and return to the logwood beck for\nseven turns. Finally, make up a fresh boiling\nbeck of 8% oz. curd soap, and give seven turns.\nOil or glycerine may be added to the soap beck\nto insure softness. After drying, the thread is\nrun over cold rollers, being twisted slowly all\nthe time, that it may be flattened in different\ndirections. It is essential that the thread\nshould not be washed or undergo any other\ntreatment after the soap beck.— R.\nBlues.— For linen the cold copperas vat, or\nthe improved hydrosulphite vat, may be used\nexactly as for cotton.\nTopped Blues (11 lb.).— 1. Give a light blue in\nthe vat, sour, rinse, and add to a cold water 1\noz. tin crystals, and 3 lb. oz. nitrate of iron.\nWork for 2 hours, lift, make up a fresh cold wa-\nter with 2% to 334 lb. logwood and 17 oz. alum.\nDry cold for a quarter of an hour and rinse.\nIf the color is not to rub off, take through\na lukewarm water with 434 oz. glue and dye.\n—ft\n2. Vat as before, and make up a water with\nindigo substitute, a mixture of induline and\nextract of logwood. Enter, work at 144° F. for\nthirty minutes, and sadden in a fresh water\nwith 1J4 oz. chromate of potash and oz. blue-\nstone.— ft\n3. Vat as before, and work for an hour in a\nwater of 11 lb. logwood and 17 oz. alum. Make\nup a fresh cold water with 2 lb. 3 oz. copperas.\nGive ten turns, and according to shade give\ntwo or three dips in both becks. If not deep\nenough, add a little nitrate of iron to the log-\nwood. Kinse and take through weak glue\nwater.— ft\nBlue without Indigo (on 55 lb yarn).— Put the\nyarn for two or three hours in water with 8%\noz. copperas, and dry without rinsing. Steep\nfor three hours in a water with 26 oz. alum;\nwash, wring and dye in a decoction of logwood,\nto which the solution of 1% oz. alum and of\nthe same weight of sugar of lead has been\nadded. Give three turns and the dyeing is\ncomplete.— ft\nLight Blue for Linen (72 yd. 29 in. wide).— Boil\nthe goods for an hour with 2 lb. 3 oz. soda ash,\nrinse, and give a light blue in the cold vat.\nSour with 334 lb. sulphuric acid and rinse. For\nthe finishing, prepare a mixture of. 108 pt. with\n2 lb. 3 oz. wheat starch, and the clear solution of\noz. of gentiana violet B and 8% oz. of alum,\npass through this at 122° F., and calender. If\nthe color is not required to be quite fast, give a\nrather paler shade in the vat, and prepare the\nfollowing finishing: Boil out 11 lb. St, Domingo\nlogwood in water, and dissolve in the clear de-\ncoction 1734 oz. alum. Boil up in the liquor 334\nlb. starch, let cool, and stir in it 1734 oz. sul-\nphate of zinc and oz. tin crystals. With this\nmake up 105 pt., work in it for half an hour,\ndry and calender. The goods must pass evenly\nthrough the mixture, as folds and creases make\nthe color uneven.— R.\nLight Blue (pieces 62 yd. 29 in. wide).— Boil\nwith 35 oz. soda ash, rinse, and give a light blue\nin the vat. Sour with 334 lb sulphuric acid and\nrinse. Mix ]08 pt. water with 35 oz. wheat\nstarch, and the clear solution of oz. gen-\ntiana violet B, and 8M oz. alum. Take through\nthis at 122° F. and calender. If the color need\nnot be quite fast, give a paler shade in the vat,\nand prepare the following finish: Boil 11 lb.\nlogwood in water, and dissolve in the clear de-\ncoction 17 oz. alum. Boil in the liquor 334 lb.\nstarch, let cool, and stir in 17 oz. sulphate of\nzinc, and oz. tin crystals. Make up 105 pt.,\nwork in it for half an hour, dry, and calender.\nLet the pieces run evenly through the mixture,\n—ft\nAniline Blue (50 lb.).— Dissolve 4 oz. aniline\nblue in 1 pt. hot methylated spirit, and stir the\nsolution well into a water at 140° F. Stir in\nalso 2 lb. acetic acid, and the solution of 3 lb.\nsulphate ot soda crystals. Enter, raise gradu-\nally to about 210° F., turning constantly; lift,\nrinse and dry.— ft\nPrussiate Blue (50 lb.).— Add to a water,\nslightly warm, 3 lb. nitrate of iron, and 2 lb.\ntin crystals. Enter, and give five turns, pass\ninto a fresh water made up with the solution of\n2 lb. yellow prussiate, and 1 lb. oil. of vitriol.\nLift, drain and re-enter in the iron bath. If\nnot dark enough, take again through the prus-\nsiate. Lift, rinse and dry.— ft\nAnother Brown (50 lb.).— Add to a water at\n140° P., 51b. alum; 51b. aniline spirit, and 10\npails logwood liquor. Work for twenty min-\nutes, rinse, and dry.— ft\nCatechu Fast Brown (50 lb.).— Steep yarns\novernight in the decoction of 10 lb. cutch or\ngambir. Lift, work in a hot solution of bichro-\nmate of potash, lift, rinse, and diy.— ft","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0177.jp2"},"176":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n164\nDyeing.\nMadder Brown (50 lb.)— Add to a water 5 lb.\nboiled madder and 5 lb. alurn. Enter yarn at\n150° F. Five turns, add 2 lb. double muriate,\nwork fifteen minutes, lift, rinse, and dry.— C.\nLight Green (10 lb.).— Digest for six hours\nwith 6J4 lb. sumac. Wring out and enter for\nhalf an hour in the following mordant Alum,\n500 grn.; sugar of lead, 250 grn. Wring out and\ndye with 100 grn. iodine green.— C.\nFast Green (110 lb.).— Boil for four hours in\nthe solution of 4 lb. 6 oz. silicate of soda, blue\nslightly in the cold vat, take through vitriol\nsours, wash, take through weak lime water, and\nwash again. Steep overnight in a water at\n167° F. with 334 lb. blue vitriol. Wash the next\nmorning, and take through a fresh water at\n167° F. with 534 lb. fustic, saddening with log-\nwood if needed.— C.\nGreen (50 lb.).— Add to a water 5 lb. alum, 2\nlb double muriate, 2 oz. tin crystals, and 34 lb.\nflavine. Boil together for ten minutes, cool,\nenter yarn, work very quickly and then more\nslowly for twenty minutes. Lift and rinse.\nMake up a cold water with a solution of 1 lb.\nextract of indigo and 6 lb. alum.\nEnter yarns, turn quickly at first, and let\nsteep for some hours, turning occasionally.\nLift and dry without rinsing.— C.\nGreenish Gray (22 lb.).— Dissolve 17 oz. soda\nash in a water, and boil for an hour. Wash, and\ntake through a fresh water with 17 oz. sulphuric\nacid, and wash again. Stir up 2 lb. 3 oz. of the\nbest chloride of lime to a uniform paste, and\nallow to settle. Soak the goods in the clear liquid\nfor six hours, turning occasionally. Lift, and\ntake through a fresh water to which 35 oz.\nmuriatic acid have been added. Rinse well.\nBoil out 8J4 oz. sumac and 35 oz. bark in suffi-\ncient water. Enter the goods for an hour in\nthe clear liquid at 122° F., press, and pass into a\nfresh water with 834 oz. copperas. Work here\nfor fifteen minutes, and take through water.\nMake up a water at 122° F. with 35 oz. alum\nenter the goods, and add by degrees very small\nquantities solution of bark and extract of in-\ndigo till the shade is hit. Rinse and dry.— C.\nIron Gray (11 lb.).— Work for an hour in a\nboiling water with 35 oz. sumac. Wring and\nwork for another hour in a fresh water with\nthe same weight of copperas.— C.\nLilac (50 lb.).— Add to a decoction of logwood\nat a hand heat 4 lb. alum, and 2 lb. double\nmuriate. Work for twenty minutes, lift, rinse\nand dry.— C.\nBluish Mode (11 lb.).— Mordant at 167° F. with\n35 oz. sumac, and work in a cold water with 35\noz. copperas. Rinse, and dye up in a fresh\nwater with alum, extract of indigo, and ma-\ngenta as required.— C.\nReddish Mode (11 lb.).— Boil out 7 oz. prepared\ncatechu in water, work the yarn, in the solution\nat 144° F. for half an hour lift, and work in a\nwater at 180° F. for half an hour, with 334 oz.\nchromate of potash. Rinse, and top in a fresh\nbeck with alum, extract of indigo, and ma-\ngenta.— C.\nGreenish Mode (11 lb.).— Work for an hour in\na water at 167° F. with 35 oz. sumac, and 7 oz.\nsolid extract of fustic. Lift, and work for half\nan hour in a cold water, with 35 oz. copperas.\nMake up a fresh water at 167° F. with 334 oz.\nsolid extract of fustic, 8% oz. alum, adding ex-\ntract of indigo as required, and a very little\nmagenta. Top in this beCk.— C.\nAniline Orange (on 11 ib. linen yarn.)— Dye as\nfor yellow and top in a fresh water with 34 oz.\nsaffranine, or rather less.— C.\nChrome Orange (11 lb.).— Boil up 334 lb. sugar\nof lead in water with an equal weight litharge\ntill the sediment is white. Let settle, and steep\nthe yarn for an hour in the clear, hot liquid.\nLift, and take through a cold water with 17 oz.\nlime. Rinse slightly and work in a cold water\nwith 17 oz. chromate of potash, and the same\nweight of sulphuric acid for a quarter of an\nhour. Redden for three minutes in a boiling-\nwater with 8% oz. of lime. If a redder shade is\nneeded, top in a fresh cold water with y A oz-\nmagenta.— C,\nMadder Orange (50 lb.).— Add to a hot water\n2 lb. flavine, 10 lb. alum, 6 lb. double muriate,\nJ4 lb. tin crystals, and 5 lb. madder. Boil for\nten minutes, cool to 170° F., enter yarns, turn\nvery rapidly at first and then more slowly for\nabout a quarter of an hour. Lift, rinse, and\ndry.— C.\nAnnatto Orange (50 lb.).— Boil 1 lb. annatto in\n4 lb. soda ash, and add the decoction to a water\nat 160°. Enter yarn, work to shade, rinse, and\ndry. This is a bright, but not very fast, orange.\nRose on Linen (11 lb.).— Work in a boiling hot\nbeck of 7 oz. tannin and Z% oz. curd soap add\nto the water the solution of 3J4 oz. tin crystals,\nand dye with y§ to M oz. saffranine at 110° F.\nReds, Magenta (100 lb.).— Dissolve 3 oz. ma-\ngenta, and add the solution to a water at 150°\nF. Stir well, enter, and work for twenty\nminutes. Lift, and dry without rinsing. C\nFast Sanders Red (100 lb.).— Ground slightly\nwith annatto mordant by steeping overnight\nin bichloride (oxy-muriate) of tin at 1134° Tw.\nRinse, wring, and enter in a beck made up with\n5 lb. sanders, and work at a boil for twenty\nminutes. Take through vitriol sours at 34° Tw.,\nwring, and rinse.— C.\nCrimson (50 lb.).— Steep in the decoction of 10\nlb. sumac. Work well in a water to which 3 lb.\nof aniline spirit have been added. Enter\nin a water at 140° F., to which has been added\nthe decoction of 15 lb. redwood, working for\ntwenty minutes. Lift, rinse, and dry. 0.\nRed (11 lb.).— Boil for five hours with 34 lb.\nsoda-ash and 2 lb. 3 oz. lime, rinse and pass into\na water containing 8% oz. muriatic acid. Rinse\nagain and prepare a bleach by stirring up in\ncold water 8% oz. chloride of lime. The yarn is\nsteeped six to seven hours in the clear liquid.\nIf the yarn appears white, rinse in cold water,\ntake through muriatic sours at 34° Tw., rinse,\nand work in boiling water containing 1734 oz.\ntannin. Wring and dry at 167° F. in a fresh\nwater containing 1% oz. yellowish saffranine.\nC\nRose (on 11 lb. linen yarn).— Work for half an\nhour at a boil with 7 oz. tannin and 3J4 oz. curd\nsoap. Lift, and add to the beck the solution of\n334 oz. tin crystals, and dye at 112° F. with the\nsolution of to oz. aniline red according to\nshade.— C.\nAnother Red (50 lb.).— Boil together 5 lb.\nsumac, 5 lb. alum, 2 oz. tin crystals, and 1 lb.\nflavine. Cool the decoction down to 180° F.,\nenter yarns, work for a quarter of an hour, and\nlift. Take it without rinsing through a cold\nwater, to which 3 lb. aniline spirit has been\nadded. Each lot of yarn is worked in this mor-\ndant from about one and a-half minute, and a\nlittle more of the spirit is added for each lot.\nDrain, and make up a water at 125° F. with the\ndecoction of 15 lb. redwood. Turn quickly at\nfirst, and afterward more slowly for twenty\nminutes. It is an improvement to add to the\ncolor-bath 2 lb. whiting, in order to neutralize\nthe acid. Lift, rinse Avell, and dry.— C.\nGolden Yellow (on 11 lb. linen yarn). Steep\nfor three hours in a boiling water with 17 oz.\ntannin, wring out and dye in a fresh cold water\nwith 3J4 to 434 oz. aniline orange or phosphine.\nYellow (100 lb.).— Boil together for fifteen\nminutes 2 lb. flavine, 10 lb. alum, 8 lb. double\nmuriate, and 34 lb. tin crystals. Cool to 170 F M\nenter yarn, and work with the usual precau-\ntions to shade. Lift, rinse, and dry. C.\nMarble, to Stain or Dye.— I. In staining mar-\nble it is necessary to heat it hot, but not so hot\nas to injure it, the proper heat being that at\nwhich the colors nearly boil. Blue is produced\nwith an alkaline indigo dye. Red by dragon s\nblood in alcohol. Yellow by gamboge in alco-\nhol. Gold color with (sal ammoniac) ammo-\nnium chloride, zinc sulphate, and verdigris,\nequal parts. Green, sap green in alcoholic po-","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0178.jp2"},"177":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n165\nDyeing.\ntassium hydroxide. Brown, tincture of log-\nwood. Crimson by a solution of alkanet root\nin turpentine. Black spots may be produced\nwith silver nitrate. As a general rule, how-\never, we believe marble tables are made by in-\nlaying rather than by staining.\n2. Marble can be stained different colors by the\nf ollowing substances: Blue, solution of litmus;\ngreen, wax colored with verdigris; yellow,\ntincture of gamboge or turmeric; red, tinc-\nture of alkanet or dragon s blood; crimson,\nalkanet in turpentine; flesh, wax tinged with\nturpentine; brown, tincture of logwood; gold,\nequal parts of verdigris, sal ammoniac, and\nsulphate of zinc in fine powder.\nPasteboard, to Dye.— To color white paste-\nboard the color of leather, soak in solution of\ncopperas and then in ammonia.\nPearl Buttons, to Dye.— Wash with lukewarm\nsolution of potash, then place in a strong aque-\nous solution of the desired color and let them\nstand, with frequent stirring, in a warm place.\nTo cause the color to penetrate, an immersion\nof two weeks may be needed. Use the aniline\ncolors.\nSilk Dyeing. Silk occupies, in several re-\nspects, an intermediate position between the\ntruly animal and the vegetable fibers. Like\nwool, it is a highly nitrogenous body, but con-\ntains no sulphur. It takes up very many of\nthe colors which can only be worked upon\nvegetable fiber by the aid of mordants. It tol-\nerates acids better than cotton, but less fully\nthan wool. Like the latter fiber, it is unable to\nbear the action of strong alkalies, especially at\nhigh temperatures. Like cotton, it can be\ndyed a Prussian blue by working alternately\nin a solution of nitrate of iron and in one of\nprussiate of potash. It has a strong affinity\nfor iron and for tannin. Cochineal does not\nwork as advantageously upon silk as upon\nwool, and a true grain scarlet 1 upon silk can\nscarcely be said to exist. On the other hand,\ncarthamine and the aniline colors appear here\nto the greatest advantage. The great attrac-\ntion of these colors for silk simplifies silk-dye-\ning exceedingly. Such colors as aniline or-\nange, cyanose rose, rose Bengale, phloxine, the\nvarious shades of rosine, magenta, the aniline\nviolets, malachite green, the aniline blues, re-\nquire merely to be dissolved and mixed with\nperfectly clear water in a clear pan. A little\nacetic or tartaric acid is often added, and in\ncase of the azo colors (such as ponceau, gren-\nadine, etc.) a little oil of vitriol. C.\nLyons Black. The silk is first entered in\nblack liquor at 25$ or 30$ and washed. Then it\nis worked in a hot soap lye, and passed hot into\na water containing 22$ of yellow prussiate of\npotash, and washed, it is then steeped in the\nblack liquor, washed, and soaked for twelve\nhours in a saturated decoction of catechu, and\nwashed. It is finally dyed in a bath of log-\nwood, containing 25$ of soap.— C.\nBlue on Silk Garments (17J4 oz.).— Wash and\nwork for a quarter of an hour in a boiling ket-\ntle of oz. Nicholson blue, and 33^ oz. borax.\nLift, drain, and take through a cold beck of\n314 oz. sulphuric acid.— B.\nBleu de Lyon. Clear water with sulphuric\nacid, and give the silks five or six turns. Add\nthe coloring matter to the beck in several suc-\ncessive portions as the dyeing advances. Be-\ngin to dye in the cold, and raise gradually to a\nboil. Soap, rinse, and give a slight brighten-\ning in the cold with sulphuric acid.— C.\nSoluble Blue.— As Bleu de Lyon, but without\nsoaping.— C.\nAniline Blue with Soap (11 lb.)— Add to a\nwater at 165° F., 1 lb. 1 oz. sulphuric acid and\nB}4 oz. white soap in solution.\nStir up very well and add in four successive\nportions, 1% oz. blue, previously dissolved in\nwater.\nDye, wash, and rinse with sulphuric acid.\nr.\nPeacock Blue.— 1. 80 lb. silk. 1 pt. sulphuric\nacid at 170° Tw., 10 oz. methylin blue crystal\ndye at 120° to 160° F.— G.\n2. Peacock Blue.— 80 lb. cloth or yarn. 3 oz.\nbiborate of soda (borax), 11 oz. peacock blue\ncrystals. Enter at 140° F., and bring to boil in\ntwenty minutes. G.\nPrussiate Blue (40 lb.).— Enter in a water, 60\ngal., at 120—130° F., with 9 lb. nitrate of iron\nat 120° Tw., and 1 lb. 10 oz. tin crystals. Give\nnine turns, wash, and give nine turns in a\nwarm water with 2 lb. yellow prussiate and\n1 lb. oil of vitriol. Return without washing to\nthe first bath, and give nine turns more. Wash,\nand give nine more turns in the prussiate bath.\nAdd to the first bath 2 lb. nitrate of iron and\n10 oz. tin crystals, nine turns and wash. Fi-\nnally, give nine turns in the prussiate bath, to\nwhich 12 oz. prussiate and 1 lb. sulphuric acid\nhave been added. Wring out, and leave for six\nhours in a covered bowl. Wash, raise, and dry\nin the air.— C.\nBrown on Silk.— Steep the ungummed silk\novernight in alum- water at 100° F. Take out\nthe next morning, and dye in a water with log-\nwood, redwood, and fustic, as the shade re-\nquires. For mediums 20 oz. of each of the\nthree woods suffice for 11 lb. of silk. The beck\nis kept at from 167° to 191° F., and the goods\nare turned from thirty to sixty minutes.— C.\nLight Brown on Silk Garments (17J4 oz.)\nWash for fifteen minutes at 167° F. in a clear\nbeck, made up with oz. genuine cutch; lift\nand enter in a fresh beck at the same heat,\nwith oz. chromate of potash, and work in\nthis f or a quarter of an hour; rinse and dye up\nat 167° F. with a little vesuvin and magenta.\nVesuvin should predominate for yellowish\ntones, and magenta in red ones.— B.\nOlive Bronze for Half Silk Yarn.— 6 lb. pre-\npared cutch, 31b. yellow cutch (Terra japonica),\nand 2 lb. Cyprus are boiled together, then the\nbath cooled down to about 100° Fahr.; the yarn,\n50 lb., introduced, turned for three hours,\ntaken out and placed in a fresh hot bath, dark-\nened with 2 lb. bichromate of potash, passed\nfor half an hour into the first bath, with the\naddition of 4 lb. curcuma and darkened in a\nfresh cold bath with nitrous iron (nitrate of\niron up to the required shade.\nCorinth Brown en Silk Garments (17^ oz.).\nMake up the kettle with oz. orchil, 1 oz.\nturmeric, 1 oz. sulphuric acid, oz. violet lake,\nand 1-6 oz. magenta and dye at a boil.— B.\nBrown on Mixed Silk and Cotton.— Boil J4 lb-\ncatechu in a water, and make up a beck at 100°\nF., steep the goods in this for five hours, turn-\ning frequently. Lift, wring, and pass into a\nweak chrome bath at 122° F. Work for half\nan hour, wash and dry. If the cotton is too\nlight it may be darkened with a decoction of\nlogwood.— C.\nBrown on Silk Waste.— Dye with extract of\norchil, nigrosine, turmeric, soap lye and sul-\nphuric acid. Enter at 112° F., raise to a boil in\nthree turns, wash well, whiz and dry.— C.\nChamois on Silk Waste.— Dye with the same\nwares as yellow at 122°— 132° F.— C.\nGreen on Silk Waste.— Prepare with a\nsolution of silicate of soda at 167° F., using\n8% oz. silicate of soda to every 2 lb. 3 oz.\nof silk. Drain and whiz without wring-\ning. Then boil with 3J^ to 5)4 oz. neu-\ntral soap. For methyl-green and iodine-\ngreen the silk is steeped with a solution of the\ncolor and a very little soap lye at 100° F. Raise\nthe heat very gradually to 144° F., wash and\nfinish in lukewarm beck with picric acid and\nvery little tartaric acid. Dark green may be\nproduced with a soluble aniline blue, turmeric,\nsulphuric acid, and old soap lye. Enter at 110°\nF., and raise in three turns to a boil. Wash\nand finish with acetic and picric acids. It is\nwell to dye the green too much on the blue\nside, and afterward dye to shade with picric\nacid. Turmeric alone gives too flat a sliade.\n-a","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0179.jp2"},"178":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n166\nDyeing.\nIron Gray on Silk Thread (111b.)— After boil-\ning wash well twice, and mordant twice with\niron. For light shades take 17 oz. oil of vitriol\nand 34 oz. nitrite of iron, for mediums 4 lb. 6\noz. nitrate .of iron, and for heavy shades 8%\nlb. Pass the silk through the back from seven\nto nine times, and wash twice; dye at 112° F.\nin a water made up of logwood, redwood, and\nfustic, and finally finish off in a fresh beck at\n122° F. and wash.— C.\nIron Gray on Silk Yarn (11 lb.).— After un-\ngumming, the silk is well washed twice and\nmordanted cold, with 2 lb. 3 oz. nitrate of iron\nand 1734 oz. sulphuric acid for light shades.\nFor mediums, 4 lb. 6 oz. nitrate of iron may\nbe taken, and for darker shades 8% lb. Give\nthe silk seven to nine turns in the iron and\nwash twice. Then dye with a mixture of log-\nwood, peachwood and fustic, according to\npattern, at 110° Fahr. Wash once.\nSilver Gray on Silk Garments (1734 oz.).— Make\nup a beck with 33^ oz. alum, and add solution\nof indulin and magenta, as may be needed.\nEnter the goods and dye at boil.— R.\nGray (5 lb. silk).— Add to 2 quarts ammon-\niacal cochineal at 3° Tw., 1 oz. tartaric and\ncitric acid, 3^ oz. extract of indigo, and 34 oz.\npicric acid. Dissolve well before entering the\nsilk and dye to shade.— C.\nPansy for Silk Garments (1734 oz Dye at\n167° F., having first washed the articles well\nin a beck of 43^ oz. curd soap and solution\nof aniline violet more or less according to\nshade.— R.\nPonceau on Silk (20 lb.).— Boil for two hours\nwith 5 lb. curd soap; enter dye bath at 120° F.,\ncontaining enough of the soap lye to lather\nfreely, along with }4 lb. oil of vitriol and 2^ oz.\ncoccinine (Farbwerke, Hoechst). The color is\ndissolved separately and added in three differ-\nent portions, while the heat is raised to a boil,\nturning to shade. Wash and take through a\nwater with acetic acid. C.\nMagenta.— Clear the dye-bath with tartaric\nacid. Pour in the solution of the coloring mat-\nter, and dye in the cold. If a more violet\ntone is needed, ground with a Hof mann s vio-\nlet, according to the shade required, and top\nwith magenta.— C.\nSaffranine Rose on Silk. The silk is prepared\nas for white, stoved, rinsed, and washed twice\nin boiling soap lye. A fresh water at 122° F. is\nmade up with the needful quantity of saffra-\nnine, and soured with a fresh solution of tar-\ntaric acid. In this the silk is dyed to shade.\nPoppy Red. —Make up a cochineal liquor at 4°\nTw., and for every 5 lb. cochineal thus ex-\ntracted, use 12 11. oz. of the tin spirit given\nbelow, and dye. Lift, and leave the silk covered\nfor twelve hours, wash slightly, take through\ncitric acid and dry. The tin spirit is made with\n4 lb. muriatic acid, 2 lb. aquafortis, and 334 oz.\ntin, added by degrees.— C.\nAnother Poppy Red.— Prepare the silk first\nin a so called stannate of soda, as given below\ntake through vitriol sours, wash well, and pass\ninto a solution of red liquor at 8° Tw., thickened\nwith 1 lb. British gum per gal. Dry and air for\ntwenty-four hours, wash well, dye in decoction\nof cochineal and raise with nitrate of tin. The\nso-called stannate of soda„is made by adding 7 lb.\npercnloride of tin to 3 gal. caustic soda at 35°\nTw., to which is then added 1 lb. oxalic acid\ndissolved in 1 gal. water. Set at 4° Tw., and use\nit in the cold. To make the red liquor, dissolve\n1 lb. alum in 2 qt. water. Precipitate the\nalumina by adding 1 lb. soda crystals dissolved\nin 1 qt. water. Collect the precipitate and dis-\nsolve it in 1 qt. strong acetic acid.— C.\nCampobello Yellow on Silk. Dissolve in\nwater, enter the silk, and dye to shade at 122°\nto 140° F— C.\nYellow on Silk Waste.-Dye at 110°— 132° F.\nwith aniline golden yellow, picric acid, a little\naniline orange and tartaric acid.— C.\nWashing Silks for Redyeing.— Brush well,\nand lay the pieces of the dress on a table cov-\nered with clean paper. Mix 334 oz. ox gall and\nthe same weight of ammonia in 9 oz. warm\nwater, and apply it with a sponge on both sides.\nRoll the silk while still damp on a wooden rol-\nler, avoiding all creases. Merino and woolen\nstuffs may be similarly treated.— R.\nSkins, to Bye.— It has been complained that\nfine skins dyed with aniline colors lose their\nproper tint, and, in order to prevent this, Dr.\nReimann proposes the three following methods:\n1. In 2 liters of water dissolve 180 grm. of gum\narabic, stir the solution well, and rub the dyed\nskin with it.\n2. In 2 liters of alcohol at 96° dissolve 180 grn.\nof shellac in a bain-marie rub the dyed leather\nwith this solution, taking care not to use the\nsame brush for two different colors.\n3. Add 120 grn. of liquid ammonia to 2 liters\nof water heated to 75° centigrade, and then dis-\nsolve in the solution 90 grn. of cassine stir the\nmixture till the boiling point is reached then\ndecant, and with the clarified mixture rub the\ndry dyed skin as before, and let it dry again.\nIn order to render the skin supple after dye-\ning, mix 10 grm. of yelk of egg and 5 grn. of\nglycerine in a liter of water rub the skin with\nthis mixture, let it half dry,* and then rub it\nwell with a piece of woolen rag only.\nStraw Hats, Bleaching and Byeing.— Put the\nstraw hats into a pan of boiling water and let\nthem steep overnight. The next morning\nmake up a strong soap beck and brush them\nwell therein. Put them in the stove without\nrinsing for twenty-four hours, then rinse and\ndry.\nStraw, to Bye.— 1. Black. In order to obtain\na level color, a solution of gluten is added to a\nlye of soda, which is allowed to stand for\ntwenty-four hours and filtered. The hats\nare then steeped for twelve hours in the\nclear liquid. The straw is thus freed from\ngrease, and the mordants of nitrate, sulphate,\nor acetate of iron, as well as the decoction of\nlogwood mixed with sumac or galls, is very\nevenly taken up by the fiber. A slight addition\nof bichromate of potash improves the tone of\nthe dye, and the goods are finished with gum or\ngelatine.— Baden Oewerbezeitung.\n2. For 11 lb. of hats Copperas, 2 lb. 3 oz.\nred argol, 1 lb. V/% oz. bluestone, 1734 oz.\nIf possible steep the hats overnight in an old\nblack dye beck, and dye up the next morning in\na fresh water with about 4 lb. 6 oz. good log-\nwood and a little turmeric.\nThe hats thus dyed appear at first rather\nbrownish, but they assume a fine black luster\non brushing.\nBlack on Straw Hats.— The hats are first\nsteeped in a beck of soda at 5° Iiaume at the\nheat of 122° F., for three hours, rinsed, and\nsoaked overnight in a sumac beck, containing\n234 lb. sumac per 5 hats. In the morning take\nout and drain and, soak for three hours in a cold\nbeck of black liquor at 2° B. Take out, drain,\nand lay the hats separately to air for six hours;\nrinse and dye at 144° F., with 234 lb. logwood per\n11 lb. of hats till the shade is reached. Lift,\ndrain, dip singly in a lukewarm beck contain-\ning 8% oz. glue per 17 pt. of water dry and rub\nwith a hard brush.— R.\nBlue Linings for Hats.— In producing these\nthe cloth is not dyed, but the thickened color is\napplied to it in the following manner: Prepare\nthe color with 22 gal. of water, 30 lb. starch, 2\nlb. tallow, 44 lb. ultramarine blue mix, boil,\npass through sieve print on the roller first on\none side, then on the other, and dry on the\ncylinder.\nCatechu Brown.— For 11 lb. of hats Boil with\nsulphate of alumina, 1734 oz. bisulphate of\nsoda, 8% oz. oil of vitriol, 4% oz. Add to the\nbath orchil, indigo, carmine, and turmeric, ac-\ncording to shade, and boil.— Teinturier Pratique.\nBrown on Straw (11 lb.).— 1. Boil for two\nhours with 4 lb. 6 oz. fustic, 334 lb. orchil, 1^4\noz. afgol, and the same weight of logwood.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0180.jp2"},"179":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n167\nDyeing.\n2. Boil for an hour in the solution of 334 lb.\ncatechu, drain and work in a fresh beck made\nup of 2 lb. 3 oz. copperas, and rinse.— R.\nIron Gray (for 11 lb. of hats).— Steep in a de-\ncoction of sumac and dye cold in a beck made\nup with benzoline and a little acetic acid. There\nare three sorts of benzoline, so that the tone\nof the gray may be varied at will. These ben-\nzoline grays are much brighter than those ob-\ntained with the old processes.\nAniline Green.— Straw is placed in boiling\nwater, then well washed with cold water and\nbleached in a bath containing 20 gr. bleaching\npowder to 7 or 9 gr. sulphuric acid. It is then\nthoroughly washed and mordanted with su-\nmac, alum and tartaric acid (not too dilute a\nliquor). Finally, it is dyed with aniline green\nand picric acid until the required shade is ob-\ntained, after digesting for some time.— Muster-\nZeitung.\nMagenta Red.— The first operation for dyeing\nthis or any other color on straw is to steep the\nlatter in a bath acidulated with sulphuric acid\nfor twelve hours^ For magenta, take an acid\nbath of 4° to 5° Be. The straw, after washing,\nis immersed for twelve hours in a bath kept at\n30° to 40° C, containing the necessary amount\nof dye. Now wash well and dry. Other ani-\nline colors do not dye straw with the same\nfacility.\nMaroon, with Logwood.— Clean the straw by\nboiling with a solution of carbonate of soda,\nthen steep in a bath of logwood for two hours.\nTo give a bluish tint, add some blue stone to\nthe bath if too much of the latter is used the\nstraw will have a greenish hue. This is a loose\ncolor, only employed on account of its cheap-\nness.\nYellow.— To produce the yellow shade which\nis in such demand, give them a bath with a\nlittle picric acid, soured with a little oil of\nvitriol, and let them dry on the block. For a\ngloss rinse in gum arabic water or water in\nwhich gelatine has been soaked.\nWool Dyeing.— Under this head we include\nnot merely wool, but alpaca, goats hair, and\nother true animal fibers, and also the treat-\nment of mixed goods, in which the warp is of\ncotton, linen, jute, etc., and the weft of wool.\nWool is dyed both loose or in the unmanufac-\ntured state, in yarns, in piece goods, and in\nrags or shoddy, and in each of these conditions\nit requires certain modifications of treatment.\nWool is, with few special exceptions, dyed at a\nboiling heat. It bears contact with acids much\nbetter than does cotton, but it is more readily\naffected by alkalies, especially at high temper-\natures. Superheated steam also reduces it to\na jelly. The mordants used in wool dyeing are\nvery frequently added to the dye pan along\nwith the dye wares and the goods to be dyed,\nand all are boiled together— a procedure rarely\nadmissible with cotton. Considerable care is\nneeded in order to obtain level shades on wool-\nen yarns, and still more so upon piece goods.\nFor this purpose the articles to be dyed are\nvery frequently entered into the dye liquor at\na temperature considerably below the boiling\npoint; they are turned at first with consider-\nable rapidity, and— especially in the case of the\naniline dyes--the color is added in successive\nportions.— C.\nBlacks.— Aniline Black on Wool (2 lb.).— Dis-\nsolve 3 oz. permanganate and 43^ oz. Epsom\nin 5 gal. hot water. When cool enter the wool\nand let soak till the liquid retains merely a\nslight yellow color. Press, and without wash-\ning enter in 2 gal. cold water made up with 12\noz. aniline oil and 20 oz. muriatic acid. Press\nthe wool, and wash in a very weak solution of\ncarbonate of soda. Pass into a solution of y§\noz. bichromate potash in 2^ gal. water, when\nit takes a deep black. Wash, and dry.— C.\nBlue Black on Loose Wool (480 lb.).— Give a\nmedium blue ground in the vat, air, wash, and\nboil the wool for two hours with 30 lb. log-\nwood 50 lb. sanders, 5 lb. fustic, and 2 lb. red\nargol. Sadden in the same beck with 7 lb. cop-\nperas.— C.\nFull Blue Black for Piece Goods (27 lb.).—\nMake up a water with 2 lb. 2 oz. argol, 634 oz.\nchromate of potash, 334 oz. bluestone, and the\nsame weight of oil of vitriol. Enter at a hand\nheat, raise to a boil, and work at that heat for\nan hour. Lift, rinse and dry with 24 lb. log-\nwood and 334 oz. oil of vitriol. Wince for\nthree-quarters of an hour in the boiling li-\nquid, lift, rinse, and dry. If not blue enough,\ncool the beck, add 17 oz. ammonia, stir up, re-\nenter, and wince for fifteen minutes.— C.\nDeep Black on Piece Goods (110 lb.).— Boil for\nan hour and a half with 2% lb. chromate of\npotash, 334 lb. red argol, and 34 lb. bluestone.\nLet cool in the flot, and dye for one hour at a\nboil with 44 lb. logwood and 13 lb. catechu.\nLift, add 26 oz. bluestone, cool, re-enter, and\nboil for fifteen minutes longer.— C.\nChrome Black on Wool (55 lb.).— Boil for an\nhour and a half with 17 oz. chromate of pot-\nash, the same weight of bluestone, and of oil\nof vitriol. Lift, and dye in a fresh water with\n22 lb. logwood and 4J4 lb. fustic, boiling for an\nhour.— C.\nFast Black on Yarns and Cloth (22 lb.).— Boil\nfor an hour with 9% oz. chromate of potash,\nthe same weight of bluestone and 8 oz. oil of\nvitriol. Let grow cold in the dye liquor. Dye\nin a fresh water with 9% lb. logwood, 2J4 lb.\nfustic and 434 oz. sulphate of zinc. Boil for an\nhour, lift, cool, rinse and dry. If a very blue\nshade is required, leave out the fustic— C.\nBlack on Wool for Fulling (110 lb.).— Boil for\ntwo hours with logwood, 43 lb.; fustic, 1534 lb-;\nsumac, 13 lb.; red argol, 534 lb. Replace the\nwater lost by evaporation and sprinkle the\nwool with a solution of 534 lb. copperas and 334\nlb. bluestone, and boil for one hour. For a\nblue-black sprinkle the wool, when lukewarm,\nwith 4 lb. 6 oz. of ammonia. For deep jet black\nsprinkle with 334 lb. bichromate of potash, dis-\nsolved in boiling water, and boil for a quarter\nof an hour.— C.\nBlack on Knitting Yarns (55 lb.).— Boil for\nforty-five minutes with 30 oz. chromate of pot-\nash, 334 oz. bluestone, the same weight of argol\nand 7 oz. sulphuric acid. Take through water\nand dye at a boil for forty-five minutes with 33\nlb. logwood.— C.\nBlack on Wool (160 lb.).— Boil for one hour\nand three-quarters with 4 lb. bichromate of\npotash, 3 lb. bluestone, 34 lb. muriate of tin, 34\nlb. oil of vitriol and 10 lb. fustic. Dye in a fresh\nwater with 50 lb. logwood, entering at 170° F.,\nand boiling for one hour.— C.\nAnother Black on Wool (100 lb.).— Boil for\none hour and a half with 2J4 lb. of bichromate\nof potash and 1 lb. argol. Dye in a fresh water\nwith the decoction of 30 lb. logwood, 10 lb. fus-\ntic, 3 lb. argol and 34 lb. oil of vitriol. Enter at\n170° F. and boil for one hour.— G.\nAnother Black on Wool (100 lb.).— Prepare for\ntwo hours at a boil with 8 lb. copperas, 3 lb.\nbluestone, 3 lb. argol and 10 lb. fustic. Dye in\na fresh water with the decoction of 30 lb. log-\nwood, entering at 170° F. and boiling for one\nhour.— C.\nAlizarine Black on Wool (100 lb.).— Prepare\nwith 12 lb. copperas, 4 lb. bluestone and 4 lb.\nred argol, boiling for one hour and a half. Dye\nin a fresh water with 7 lb. alizarine, 44 lb. log-\nwood, 6 lb. fustic, 6 lb. sumac, 3 lb. chalk.— C.\nBlack on Thick Half Woolen (10 lb.).— Dye in\nthe clear decoction of 3 lb. logwood, lb.\nsumac and 34 lb. fustic. Raise to a boil and\nkeep up for half an hour. Lift and pass into a\ncold water with 34 lb. copperas, letting it steep\nfor an hour. Pass into a boiling bath of 2 to 3\noz. yellow prussiate and work for an hour.\nRepeat all these three baths and rinse well. It\nis better to rinse each time after the logwood\nbath.— C.\nBlack on Merino (16 lb. 6 oz.).— Make up a\nbeck with 33-6 oz. chromate of potash, oz.\nblue vitriol, 8% oz. argol and 634 oz. sulphuric","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0181.jp2"},"180":{"fulltext":"Dyeing. 168\nacid. Boil up, cool down and enter the goods\npreviously washed and rinsed. Boil for three-\nquarters of an hour, lift, take through water\nand dye at a boil for three-quarters of an hour\nin a fresh beck made up with 22 lb. St. Domingo\nlogwood, with the addition of 6J4 oz. sulphuric\nacid. If a bluish shade is desired, cool and add\n17 l /i oz. ammonia. Kinse and dry. To finish,\ntake the pieces through 17*4 oz. gum traga-\ncanth, dissolve in 70 qt. water.— R.\nBlack on Wool from Alizarine Colors. A:\nlied Shade Black.— For 100 lb. wool. Mordant\n/by boiling from two to two and a-half hours in\na bath containing bichromate of potash, 31b.;\ntartar, 2)4 lb. Dye in a bath containing alizar-\nine blue WX, 32J4 lb., cceruleine W, 1)4 lb.,\nalizarine orange W, 3 lb. )4 oz.\nB Reddish Shade. Mordant as before. Dye\nwith alizarine blue WX, 32J4 lb., cceruleine W,\n1)4 lb., alizarine orange, 2\\£ lb.\nC Blue Black.— Mordant as before. Dye in a\nbath containing alizarine blue WX, 363^ lb.,\ncceruleine W, 1)4 lb., alizarine orange W, 1)4 lb.\nEnter the wool in the cold, work for half hour,\nthen gradually raise to boil and dye boiling for\n1)4 hours. Then lift, wash and dry. Textile\nMercury.\nBlue Black.— Blue black on 100 lb. loose\nwool. Mordant for one hour at boil in a bath\ncontaining 2%% bichromate of potash, 2)4% red\nargols. Wash off and dye for one hour in a\nboiling bath of 8 lb. extract logwood, 51°. Pole\nwell, lift out, let drain, and sadden with 2 lb.\ncopperas. Enter and pole for one half houi\\\nLift out and wash.\nBlack on Woolen Knitting Yarns (55 lb.).\nBoil for forty-five minutes with 30J4 oz. chrom-\nate of potash, 3)4 oz. bluestone, the same weight\nargol, and 7 oz. sulphuric acid. Take through\nwater, and dye at a boil for three-quarters of\nan hour with 33 lb. logwood. -jR.\nBlack on Woolen Piece Goods (110 lb.).— Boil\nfor ninety minutes with 8% lb. copperas. 4 lb. 6\noz. bluestone, the same weight of argol, and 11\nlb. fustic. Dye afterward with 44 lb. logwood.\nR.\nPast Black on WOolen Yarn (11 lb.).— Boil for\none hour with 4)4 oz. chromate of potash and\nthe same weight of prepared tartar finely\nground rinse immediately, and let cool in the\nliquor, and dye with 6^ lb. logwood, adding a\nlittle fustic according to shade, and 7 oz. log-\nwood. Boil for three-quarters of an hour.\nAfter dyeing drain and take the yarns four\ntimes through the prepared beck; rinse, and\nthen take three times through an old soda-\nbeck. Rinse when the dyeing is complete.—\nR.\nBlack on Woolen Knitting Yarns (55 lb.).—\nBoil for forty-five minutes with 30J4 oz. chrom-\nate of potash, 3)4 oz. bluestone, the same weight\nargol, and 7 oz. sulphuric acid. Take through\nwater, and dye at a boil for three-quarters of\nan hour with 33 lb. logwood.— R.\n1. Superior Jet Black.— 5 pieces 100 lb.\ncloth; dyeing vessel containing about 160 gal.\nhot water, in which dissolve 3 lb. bichromate of\npotash; work in this at boil for one hour, after-\nward wash in cold water. Then in same vessel\nagain charged with 150 gal. hot water, add 34 lb.\nground logwood and 7 lb. fustic, ground or\nchipped; enter just below boiling, and immedi-\nately raise to boil, and work in it for one hour\nand twenty minutes. Wash in cold water and\ndry— G.\n2. Black for Alpaca Yarns containing 30$\nof Cotton (55 lb.).— Por the mordant, take as\nlittle cold water as practicable and add black\nliquor till it makes 5)4° Tw., and the following\nsubstances, which are dissolved separately, each\nin a small quantity of water, and to the solu-\ntions are added Sugar of lead, 17 oz.; crude red\npotash, 17 oz.; copperas, 4 lb. 6 oz.; chromate of\npotash, 17 oz.; sal ammoniac, 7 oz. Let the mix-\nture settle well, and steep the yarns in the clear\nfor one hour and a half. Lift, whiz, dry rap-\ni ily, take through a weak soda bath, and dye\nDyeing.\nin a fresh water with logwood, 17^j lb.; fustic, 4\nlb. 6 oz.— C.\nBlack for Mixed Goods (100 lb.).— Boil 40 lb.\nlogwood, 10 lb. fustic, 20 lb. sumac, 3 lb. red\nargol. Cool, enter, and boil for an hour. Lift,\nand add 6 lb. copperas and 4 lb. bluestone.\nBoil again for an hour; lift, cool down, and\ntone in the same water with 5 lb. ammonia and\n2 lb. soda ash.— C.\nBlues, Logwood Blue (100 lb.).— Give a ground\nin the vat, wash, and mordant at a boil for one\nhour and a half with 8 lb. alum, 5 lb. sulphate of\ncopper, 6 lb. tin crystals, 4 lb. bichromate of\npotash, 2 lb. argol and 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Dye\nin a fresh water with 20 lb. logwood and 4\nlb. Santa Marta wood, without bringing to a\nboil.— C.\nLogwood Blue Process in use at Aix la\nChapelle (100 lb.).— Boil for two hours with 13\nlb. alum, 6)4 lb. argol, 2)4 lb. tin crystals and y 2\nlb. sulphuric acid. Let the wood lie for a night,\nand then dye with 40 lb. logwood and 1 lb. car-\nbonate of soda cry stals.—C.\nLogwood Blue Process in use at Verviers (100\nlb.).— Boil for two hours with 10 lb. alum and 1\nlb. bichromate of potash. After boiling, let the\nwool lie overnight and dye in the morning with\n20 lb. logwood.— C.\nLogwood Blue, Dutch Process (100 lb.).— Boil\nfor two hours and a half with 5 lb. sulphate of\nalumina, 41b. chrome alum, and 1 lb. bluestone.\nLet lie overnight and dye the next morning\nwith 6 lb. extract of logwood and 1 lb. carbon-\nate of soda. C.\nDark Blue on Cloth (110 lb.).— Boil for an hour\nwith 5)4 lb. alum, 2% lb. red argol, 17 lb. chro-\nmate of potash and 2% lb. bichloride of tin.\nLet cool in the not. Dye for one hour at a boil\nwith 22 lb. logwood and 11 lb. extract of in-\ndigo.— C.\nExtract Blue on Wool and Cloth (55 lb.).—\nMake up a water with 17 oz. sulphate of soda,\nthe same weight of oil of vitriol, and from 7 to\n17 oz. extract of indigo. Boil up, cool, enter,\nthen turn continually to shade at a boil. C.\nNicholson Blue (50 lb.). Make up a water\nwith 1 lb. borax and 7 oz. Nicholson blue. En-\nter at 170° F., give four to five turns, and raise\nto a boil, turning to shade. Wash, and raise\ncolor in a water acidulated with sulphuric acid.\nWash and dry.— C.\nMethylene Blue (100 lb. Wool).— Mordant for\none hour and a half with 2)4 lb. bichromate of\npotash and 2 lb. argol, at a boil. Dye in a fresh\nwater with 1 lb. methylene blue O O (of the\nBaden Aniline Company), boiling for three-\nquarters of an hour and letting the wool after-\nward steep in the hot liquor for four to eight\nhours. This shade stands fulling.— C.\nBlue on Wool and Cloth (44 lb.).— Boil for an\nhour with 5)4 lb. alum, 5)4 lb. argol, 1 lb. oxalic\nacid, )4 lb. tin crystals. Dye in a fresh beck\nwith to 11 lb. logwood.— G.\nNemours Blue on Cloth (11 lb.).— Boil for one\nhour and a half with Q4 oz. chromate of potash,\nM to 1)4 oz. oil of vitriol, and 8% oz. argol. Let\ncool in the liquor, rinse and dye with 4)4 to 5j4\nlb. logwood, 1 lb. sanders*and Mlb. fustic, boil-\ning for an hour. C.\nAniline Blue on Yarns to bear Fulling (55\nlb.).— Make up a water for 5)4 lb. sulphate of\nalumina, 4J4 lb. sulphate of soda, 26J^ oz. tartar,\n17 oz. perchloride of tin and the clear solution\nof 3 oz. aniline blue. Boil up, enter the yarns,\nand dye at a boil. Take out, whiz and rinse.— C.\nGuernsey Blue on Flannel (100 lb.).— Boil up\n30 lb. barwood, cool, enter the flannel, and boil\nfor three-quarters of an hour. Then dissolve\nin a water 2 lb. Guernsey blue and V4 lb. sul-\nphate of zinc. Enter the flannel at a hand-\nheat, raise slowly to a boil, and boil for two\nhours. Lift, rinse well in cold water and raise\nthe shade in a bath containing 1)4 lb. sul-\nphate of zinc and 8 lb. oil of vitrol. Rinse and\ndry.— C.\nPrussiate Blue on Worsteds (1001b.).— Dissolve\nin separate vessels and in cold water 9 lb. red","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0182.jp2"},"181":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n169\nDyeing.\nprussiate, 2}^ lb. tartaric acid, 2J^ lb. oxalic\nacid and 2 lb. tin composition. When well dis-\nsolved pour together and stir well. Add the\nabove mixture to a water at 100° F., and then\nadd 12 lb. good oil of vitriol. Enter the goods,\nturn well, heat slow up to the boiling point and\nboil lor half an hour. For darker shades add\nthe decoction of 14 lb. logwood chips and a few\npounds of muriate of tin. Cool the dye before\nre-entering the goods and turn very quickly to\nget a level shade. For a finer shade leave out\nthe logwood, rinse well, and top in a fresh cold\nbath with a little aniline blue.— C.\nScotch Blue on Worsted— One Bath (50 lb.\nworsted).— Dissolve 10 lb. Glauber salts, 5 lb.\nalum, 34 lb. red tartar, y z gal. sulphuric acid, 20\nlb. indigo paste (medium quality), 3 lb. orchil\ncarmine (Pickhardt Kuttroff Enter the yarn\nat 180° F., give eight turns, bring to boiling,\nthen give about six turns, whiz well and dry.\nNote 1. To get the shade even it is advisable\nto begin with 15 lb. indigo paste and 23^ lb.\norchil, add balance when boiling.\n2. In using common or medium indigo paste,\nit is advisable to p.dd sulphuric acid after dis-\nsolving all other drugs, then skim the liquor\nfrom the impurities which rise to the top.\n3. Should the shade turn to red, 1 pt. sul-\nphuric acid will reduce the same. 34 oz. methyl\npurple, or a finer quality of indigo paste, will\nproduce more brightness of color.\nFast Blue without Indigo (120 lb.).— Boil for\ntwo hours with 3 lb. bluestone, 3 lb. oxalate of\npotash, 15 lb. alum, 6 lb. argol and 2 lb. chrome,\nlet cool in the not, and dye in a fresh water\nwith 50 lb. logwood, boiling for two hours.— C.\nDark Gendarme Blue on Worsted (50 lb.).—\nAdd to a water 1 lb. borax, 3 oz. Nicholson blue,\nand 6 oz. alkali green (Meister, Lucius\nBruening, of Hoechst). Enter at 160° F., turn\nfor ten minutes while raising to a boil, and\nboil for half an hour. Enter in a fresh water\nat 130° F., with lb. oil of vitriol. Give four\nor five turns, and wash.— C.\nDark Navy Blue on Worsted (50 lb.).— Dissolve\n10 lb. sulphate of soda, 2 lb. induline, 2 lb. ex-\ntract of orchil, and 6 lb. extract of indigo, and\nadd 2 qt. oil of vitriol. Enter at 180° F., turn\ncontinually, raising to a boil, and boil to shade.\nDark Sapphire on Worsted (50 lb.).— Give a\nGuernsey blue bottom in the usual manner,\nwith 6 oz. Guernsey blue wash and raise in a\nwater with 2 lb. sulphuric acid. Dissolve in a\nfresh water 3 lb. sulphate of soda, 3^j lb. argol, 1\nlb. alum, 3 lb. indigo extract, and V/% lb. picric\nacid.— C.\nBlue on Yarn (100 lb.).— Make up water at\n160° F., with 10 lb. sulphate of soda, 2 lb. oil of\nvitriol, 1 lb. soluble blue R. S. (Monnet\nCo., Geneva). Enter, turn to shade while rais-\ning to a boil wash and dry.— C.\nBlue on Coarse Wooled Yarns (55 lb.).— Indi-\ngotine for dark colors (Frankel Runge, of\nBerlin), 1034 oz.; orange (Badin Anilin Co.), 134\noz.; methyl violet, 34 oz. Dissolve well, and add\nto the water. Add further Oil of vitriol, 2 lb.\n3 oz.; sulphate of soda, 5^ lb.; red argol, 8% oz.\nEnter yarns at 122° F., and boil for an hour. C.\nBenzyl Blue.— Dissolve in 100 to 200 parts\nwater, and dye at a boil without any mordant.\nC.\nFast and Bright Brown (2201b. Woolen Cloth).\n—Take 63^ lb. argol, fustic, Sanders, madder,\nlogwood, and sumac to shade. Boil for an\nhour and a half, and sadden with bluestone,\nand lastly with copperas. For a brighter shade\nto the same weight of goods, take 5 lb. chro-\nmate of potash, 334 lb. each of argol and sulphu-\nric acid boil for two hours, and dye with fustic,\nsanders, madder, and logwood, and sadden with\ncopperas.\nNavy Blue for Ladies Cloth (44 lb.).— First\nbath 4 lb. soda and lb. Prussian blue, in which\nthe cloth is turned for an hour at 200° F.; it is\nthen washed and placed in a second water,\nstrongly soured, and containing 10 oz. methyl\nviolet. Finish below the boiling heat.— C.\nMarine Blue on Mixed Goods (22 lb.).— Give a\nground with Nicholson blue, working for half\nan hour at a boil, with 43 oz. Nicholson blue of\nthe reddest shade and 834 oz. soda crystals.\nRinse slightly and raise in a fresh hot water\nwith 10V6 oz. oil of vitriol, and bring up to shade\nin the same water with a little orchil liquor and\npicric acid. After the wool or worsted has\nthus been dyed, the goods are steeped overnight\nin a lukewarm solution of 334 oz. tannin, and\nthen worked for half an hour in a cold solution\nof aquafortis at iy 2 Tw. Dye to shade with\nbluish methyl violet and a little extract of log-\nwood, souring lastly with a little vitriol. C.\nBlue.— Blue on 200 lb. blanket yarn— half cot-\nton and half wool. Dyed separately, then\nmixed and spun. The cotton is dyed as fol-\nlows— 100 lb. raw cotton 3 lb. benzo-azurine,\n3 lb. refined alkali, 10 lb. Glauber s salt. Boil in\nthe stock, and boil slowly for one hour.\nWool is dyed as follows— 100 lb. raw wool\nBoil up 134 lb. Guernsey blue, 4 lb. oil of vitriol,\n8 lb. Glauber s salt. Enter wool at 160° F., raise\nto boil, and work at boil for one hour. Draw\noff and wash.\nBlue on Camel s Hair.— Blue on 100 lb. camel s\nhair 34 lb. alkali blue, B, lb. Guernsey blue,\n4 lb. oil of vitriol, 8 lb. Glauber s salt. Boil in\nthe stock, pole well, and boil gently for one\nhour. Draw off and wash.\nDark Blue on Woolen Rep (22 lb.).— Dye at a\nboil with alum, 17 oz.; argol, 7 oz.; and the\nnecessary quantity of extract of indigo. When\nthe shade is almost reached, top with a little\norchil liquor and a few drops of sulphuric\nacid.\nLavender Blue on Wool (110 lb.).— Boil for an\nhour with 2 lb. 3 oz. logwood, 434 oz. extract of\nindigo, 1734 oz. orchil, 434 oz. alum, and the\nsame weight of copperas.— R.\nDeep Blue on Woolen Piece Goods (110 lb.)—\nBoil for an hour with 5 lb. 7 oz. alum, 2% lb.\nargol, 1734 oz. chromate of potash, and 334 lb.\nperchloride of tin. Let cool in the liquor, and\nthen dye at a boil for one hour, with 22 lb. log-\nwood and 11 lb. extract of indigo. R.\nExtract Blue for Wool and Woolen Piece\nGoods (55 lb.).— Make up the beck with 1734 oz.\nsulphate of soda, the same weight of sulphuric\nacid, and from 7 to 1734 oz. indigo, carmine ac-\ncording to shade. Boil up, cool and enter,\nboiling with continual turning till the shade is\nobtained.—!?.\nNew Blue on Flannel.— Red prussiate, 8%, sul-\nphuric acid, 8%. Enter at a hand heat and raise\ngradually to aboil, which is kept up for half an\nhour, and cool. Take out and add to the beck\na strained solution of about 34$ of the new\nacid magenta and the same weight salt of\ntin, and dye for another half hour. It is well\nbefore adding the magenta to take out a part\nof the flot, and make up with cold water. If\nseveral successive lots are to be dyed in the\nsame bath the proportion of sulphuric acid and\nof magenta may be lessened after the first lot.\nPuteaux Blue on Woolen Cloth or Yarns (100\nlb.).— The dyeing is done in wooden or stone\ntanks, the use of copper being entirely avoided.\nSteam is introduced by a leaden pipe. Put into\nthe water 3 lb. oxalic acid, and boil for fifteen\nminutes. Stop boiling, and add 4 to 5 lb. am-\nmonia and 10 lb. dye. Re-enter the goods, and\nboil for three-quarters of an hour; the bath\nshould then be of a light violet add 3 to 4 lb.\noxalic acid, and dye in an hour and a half. The\ndyeing can be hastened by adding 1 to 2 lb.\nmore oxalic or acetic acid. After dyeing im-\nmerse the goods in water and steep for fifteen\nminutes in a water at 122° F., containing 4 lb.\nacetate, sulphate, or chloride of zinc, with 2 lb.\nacetic, sulphuric, or muriatic acid. Wash as\nusual. If the wool is to be fulled after dyeing,\ninstead of the zinc process boil it for ten or\ntwenty minutes with 3 to 4 lb. ground galls and\n1 to 2 lb. acetic acid.— C.\nNavy Blue on Mixed Goods (10 lb.).— Boil with\n3 oz. each argol and chromate of potash. Rinse,","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0183.jp2"},"182":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n170\nDyeing.\nprepare with 2 lb. sumac, and dye at a gentle\nboil with 1 lb. logwood and 34 oz. aniline violet.\nLift and work at a hand-heat for half an hour\nin a water with 2 lb. logwood. Lift, drain, and\nsadden in a fresh water with 34 lb. bluestone.\nLift, and rinse well. Or, prepare with 2 lb.\nsumac, drain, take through black liquor at 234°\nTw., rinse, and finally dye at a hand-heat with\n214 oz. methyl violet.— C.\nDark Chocolate, Cloth or Yarn (80 lb.).— 80 to\n100 gal. water, 3 lb. bichromate of potash, 15 lb.\npeachwood ground, 334 lb. logwood ground, 134\nlb. tartrate of potash. Boil thirty to forty\nminutes. G.\nDark Olive Brown on Wool.— For 100 lb. wool.\nDye in a bath at the boil for one and a half\nhours with fustic, 55 lb.; logwood, 10 oz.; sumac,\n134 lb.; cloth red B, 6 oz.; fast brown G, 34 lb.;\nfast yellow, 1 oz. Darken in a bath of blue-\nstone, 4 1b.; copperas, 234 lb., for ten minutes\nwash and dry.\nBronze on Cloth (45 lb.). Boil for one hour\nand a half with 5!4 lb. alum, 2% lb. argol, and\nthe same weight of bluestone. Lift, and dye at\na boil for one hour in a fresh beck, with 32 lb.\nfustic, 2% lb. logwood, and 13% lb. madder.\nTake out and sadden with 334 lb. copperas, or\nmore, according to shade. C.\nLight Brown on Yarn (110 lb.)— Boil for one\nhour and a half with 27 oz. chromate of potash,\n17 oz. argol, and 14 oz. alum. Dye at a boil for\nan hour with 35 lb. fustic, 8J4 lb. camwood, and\n34 lb. madder.— C.\nBrown on Yarn (110 lb.).— Boil for one hour\nand a half with 27 oz. chromate of potash, and\nan equal weight of argol. Lift, and dye at a\nboil with 44 lb. fustic, 35 lb. camwood, and 11\nlb. logwood.— C.\nDark Brown (54 lb.). Give a rather full\nground in the vat, and boil for two hours in a\nwater with alum, 22 lb.; argol, 634 lb.; copperas,\n26 oz., and fustic, 17 lb. Lift, cool, and dye hot,\nbut not boiling, with 66 lb. logwood and 13 lb.\nsumac. At the end of an hour add 434 lb. cop-\nperas. Wash in water containing a little soda,\nand lastly, in pure water.— C.\nFast and Bright Brown (220 lb. woolen cloth).\n—Take 6J4 lb. argol, fustic, sanders, madder,\nlogwood, and sumac to shade. Boil for one and\na half hours, and sadden with bluestone, and\nlastly with copperas. For a brighter shade to\nthe same weight of goods, take 534 lb. chromate\nof potash, 3J4 lb. each of argol and sulphuric\nacid boil for two hours, and dye with fustic,\nsanders, madder, and logwood, and sadden\nwith copperas.— R.\nGolden Bronze (54 lb.).— Boil for two hours In\na water with fustic, 26 lb.; sumac and sanders,\n13 lb. each. Lift, add copperas, 6J4 lb., and blue-\nstone, 434 lb. Re-enter, and boil for half an\nhour, and rinse.- -C.\nOlive Bronze (54 lb.).— Give a half shade in\nthe vat, and dye with argol, 634 lb.; bluestone,\n434 lb.; fustic, 87 lb.; sanders and turmeric, 11\nlb. each; madder extract, 634 lb. Boil two\nhours, lift, and wash. Add to the bath 634 lb.\ncopperas dissolved, and re-enter. Lastly, pass\nthrough water containing a little carbonate of\nsoda, and rinse in plain water. C.\nMetallic Luster on Browns (44 lb.).— Take the\ndyed cloth through a water at 150° F., with 634\nlb. bluestone, and 1634 lb. ammonia. Rinse\nslightly, and take through a water with 13 lb.\nhyposulphite of soda.— C.\nBrown on Yarn (55 lb.).— Boil for forty-live\nminutes with 30 oz. chromate of potash. Take\nthrough water the day after, and dye with 26\nlb. peachwood and 34 oz. fustic. For very pale\nshades, 3 oz. sulphate of alumina may be added\nto the beck. For very dark shades, sadden with\nlogwood.— C.\nGolden Brown on Cloth (110 lb.)— Boil out 88\nlb. fustic and add to the decoction 27 lb. calia-\ntura wood, 8% lb. turmeric and 534 lb. argol.\nBoil for an hour, lift, add 534 lb. bluestone, boil\nfor half an hour, lift and sadden with 5 oz. cop-\nperas.— C.\nReddish Brown on Wool (10 lb.). Prepare at\na boil with 34 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 oz. oil\nof vitriol, 1 lb. alum, for one hour and a half.\nDye at a boil for one hour with 3 lb. redwood,\n1 lb. camwood, 1 lb. f ustic. C.\nBrown on Wool (100 lb.).— Boil for an hour\nand a half in a water with 2 lb. bichromate of\npotash and 2 lb. argol. Boil in a fresh water in\na bag 40 lb. fustic. Take out the bag and add\nto the water 20 lb. camwood, 7 lb. madder, 7 lb.\ncutch. Boil for fifteen minutes longer cool,\nenter the prepared wool and boil one hour.\nSadden with 134 lb. each copperas and blue-\nstone and boil for twenty minutes longer. C.\nBrown on Alpaca (10 lb.).— Dissolve 1 lb. alum,\nlb. argol, lb. cudbear. Boil for twenty\nminutes cool, enter the goods and boil for an\nhour; lift and rinse. Enter the goods in an-\nother hot water with the decoction of 4 lb.\ncutch. Give six turns (or, as it is often called,\nsix ends Lift and pass into another hot\nwater containing solution of 1 lb. bichromate\nof potash give six turns, lift, drain and pass\nback into the cutch bath. Rinse and finish with\nthe decoction of 4 lb. redwood. A darker shade\nis got by giving the goods a little logwood after\nthe redwood bath. Work the goods in the log-\nwood bath for an hour at a boil. Lift and add\nto the same bath 1 oz. tin crystals and 1 oz. oil\nof vitriol. Re-enter the goods, six turns, rinse\nand dry. C.\nBrown on Worsteds (100 lb.).— Prepare with a\nsolution of 2 lb. bichromate of potash, 2 lb.\nargol and 1 lb. tin crystals. Boil for two hours,\nturning well, lift and wash. Boil in a fresh\nwater for an hour in a bag 10 lb. redwood, 40 lb.\nfustic, 4 lb. logwood. Take out the bag and\nadd to the same bath 10 lb. cutch, 10 lb. cam-\nwood, 16 lb. madder, 2 lb. argol. Let boil fifteen\nminutes longer, cool and enter the cloth, turn-\ning Avell and boiling for an hour. Lift and add\nto the same bath 2 lb. each copperas and blue-\nstone. Cool the dye after these ingredients are\ndissolved. Enter, turn well and boil for fifteen\nminutes.— C.\nBrown on Shoddy containing Cotton (100 lb.).\n—Boil for half an hour 30 lb. fustic, 3 lb. alum,\nprepared tartar, 2 lb., and bluestone, 1 lb. Add\nto the liquor 1 lb. bichromate of potash and 12\noz. magenta. Enter, boil very gently, sadden\nwith logwood and tint with turmeric if re-\nquired.— C.\nDark Brown on Felt (35 lb.).— Chromate of\npotash, 1734 oz.; oil of vitriol, 334 lb. Boil for\nthirty minutes and add extract of logwood, 41b.\n6 oz.; G. G. s brown, 8M lb. Boil for one\nhour, lift, and air. -Muster Zeitung fur Farberei.\nGold Brown on Worsted (50 lb.).— Dissolve 3\nlb. alum, 1 lb. tartar, 3 lb. sulphuric acid, 12 oz.\nfast yellow, 5 oz. orange A, 1 oz. fast red\nR (all these three colors from the Baden Ani-\nline Co.), 4 oz. extract of indigo. Enter at 180°\nF., and turn till even. C.\nAlizarine Brown (100 lb.).— Mordant with 3 lb.\nbichromate of potash, and 34 lb. bluestone, boil-\ning for one hour and a half. Enter in a\nfresh water with 5 lb. alizarine, 9 lb. extract of\nfustic, 6 lb. sumac, and boil for one hour and a\nhalf. Sadden with 2 lb. copperas, and boil for\nhalf an hour.; then leave in the liquor for four\nhours.— C.\nMaroon with Alizarine (100 lb.).— Mordant at\na boil for two hours with 134 lb. bichromate of\npotash and 2 lb. red argol. Enter in a fresh\nwater with 10 lb. alizarine, ti lb. sumac, and 21b.\nchalk. The shade may be modified by leaving\nout some or all of the sumac— C.\nDark Brown on Worsted (75 lb.).— Boil 2 lb.\nalum, 10 lb. sulphate of soda, and 4 oz. red argol\nwith 18 oz. maroon S, 8 oz. fast yellow, and\n2 oz. orange A (all three of the Baden Ani-\nline Co.), and 12 lb. extract of indigo. Enter at\n180° F., raise to 212° F., and boil for one hour.—\nC.\nFast Seal Brown.— Fast seal brown on 100 lb.\nwool yarn Mordant with 234 lb. bichromate of\npotash, 5 lb. red argols. Enter yarn at 160° F.,","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0184.jp2"},"183":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n171\nDyeing.\nraise temperature to boiling point, turn for one\nhour, lift out and rinse. Dye in a bath of 10 lb.\nAlizarine, 2 A. B.; 6 lb. extract of logwood, 51°.\nEnter yarn at 160° F., bring temperature to boil-\ning point, and work for one and one half hours\nat that heat. Lift out, rinse, and dry.\nBrown on Woolen Yarn (55 lb.).— Boil for\nthree quarters of an hour with 30 oz. chro-\nmate of potash. Take through water the day\nafter, and dye with 26J4 lb. peachwood and 2 lb.\n3 oz. fustic. Lighter or darker shades can be\nobtained by boiling for a shorter or longer time.\nFor very pale shades, 334 oz. sulphate of alumina\nmay be added to the beck and for very dark\nshades, sadden with logwood.— JR.\nBrown on Woolen Piece Goods. Boil for one\nhour with 2 lb. 3 oz. chromate of potash, and\nthe same weight of argol. Let cool in the Hot,\nand dye at a boil for one hour, with 441b. fustic,\n11 lb. madder, and 11 lb. camwood. Take out,\nand dissolve in the beck 2 lb. 3 oz. copperas, and\n1734 oz. blue vitriol. Re-enter, and boil for an\nhour longer.— R.\nReddish Brown (22 lb. wool). Sulphate of\nzinc, 1734 oz.; oil of vitriol, 20% oz.; fast brown\n(Gutbier Gotze s), 4 lb. 6 oz.; acid magenta,\n8% oz. This red brown is quite fast, a nd may\nbe converted into good black by means of log-\nwood and soda.\nRed Brown on Wool (50 lb.). Boil 6 lb. sul-\nphate of soda, 234 lb. alum, 4 oz. orange II,\nand 6 oz. claret red (both of the Farbwerke,\nHoechst on the Main), and 5 lb. extract of\nindigo. Enter at 160° F., turn well, raise to a\nboil, and dye to shade. If the orange II is\nreduced or omitted, a more purple tone is\nobtained.— C.\nMaroon on Yarn (100 lb.). Chromate of\npotash, 2 lb.; ground fustic, 6% lb.; ground log-\nwood, 1 i% lb.; ground sanders, 60 lb.; turmeric,\n2 lb. Mordant in the chrome bath for two\nhours, and leave the yarn in flat heaps in a\ncool, dark place till morning. Wash, and enter\nin the dye beck at 158°— 167° F., and do not push\nto a boil till the shade appears even. Boil for\none hour and a half. Wash off at once after\ndyeing. Darker shades may be produced by\nincreasing the quantities. If orchil is substi-\ntuted for sanders, the quantity of fustic must\nbe a little increased, as orchil gives a cherry\nred with chrome. C.\nDead Leaf (55 lb.).— Prepare at a boil with\nbichromate of potash 17 oz., argol 2 lb. 2 oz.\nDye with catechu 634 lb., young fustic 434 lb.,\nlogwood 234 lb.— C.\nVery Dark Olive Brown on Half Woolen\nReps (22 lb.).— The wool is first dyed as follows\nBoil with argol oz., madder 7 oz., extract of\nfustic 2% oz., sumac 8% oz., for forty-five\nminutes. Sadden in the same beck with 1%\noz. copperas. Finally, dye to shade with picric\nacid and logwood. Steep overnight in a strong,\nlukewarm decoction of fustic, and work for an\nhour in a cold nitrate of iron at 234° Tw.\nRinse, and dye in the cold with decoctions of\nfustic and logwood.— C.\nDark Brown, 5 pieces 100 lb. Cloth— 20 lb.\nturmeric, 4 lb. extract of indigo, 15 lb. cudbear,\n2 pt. sulphuric acid, 170° Tw., 10 lb. sulphate of\nsoda; enter at boil and work for about ninety\nminutes.— O.\nChrome Puce on Woolen Reps (22 lb.).— Boil\nthe goods for one hour and a half with bichro-\nmate of potash, 834 oz.; sulphuric acid, oz.\nLet lie overnight, and dye, without rinsing in a\nfresh beck, with extract of fustic, 14 oz.; ex-\ntract of logwood, 3J4 oz.; madder, 14 oz.; callia-\ntura wood, 534 oz. Boil for half an hour, darken\nwith the decoction of 17 oz. logwood, and finally\nsadden, without boiling, with oz. to 1 oz. cop-\nperas.— C.\nFast Brown on Mixed Goods with Linen\nWarps (260 lb.).— Wash with soda crystals andt\nboil with argol 1534 lb., and alum 1634 lb. Keep\nat the boil for an hour; lift, cool, rinse, and dye\nwith 66 lb. madder, boiling for half an hour.\nSadden with 33 lb. logwood. To dye the linen.\nwork for two hours at 150° F., in a decoction of\n44 lb. prepared catechu; lift, and enter hi a boil-\ning water with 334 lb. bichromate. Rinse and\nsadden, if needed, in a fresh water with 17 lb.\nlogwood. The tone may be modified by adding\na little acid magenta.— C.\nChamois (11 lb.).— Make up a water with\n6 34oz. oxalic acid, 334 oz. tin crystals, 1 to 1% oz.\ncochineal, and a trace of flavine. Boil up, cool,\nenter, and dye to a shade, raising rapidly to a\nboil.— C.\nCinnamon on Yarns (110 lb.).— Boil for one\nhour and a half with 20 oz. chromate of potash,\n14 oz. argol, 27 oz. alum; and dye by boiling for\nan hour with 221b. camwood, 334 oz. madder\nand 634 lb. f ustic— C.\nCinnamon on Yarns (55 lb.).— Boil up 6% lb.\norchil, 234 lb. extract of bark, 9 oz. turmeric,,\n234 lb. alum, 2% lb. argol, 8 oz. biuestone. Cool,\nenter yarns, and boil for half an hour. Lift,\nadd 8 oz. oil of vitriol, and boil for fifteen min-\nutes longer. C.\nCinnamon on Wool (100 lb.).— Boil for ninety\nminutes with 10 lb. extract of fustic and 50 lb.\nsanders. Sadden with 1% lb. biuestone, and boil\nfor another hour. Cool, add five jugs of lant\n(stale urine), and let the wool steep for an\nhour.— C.\nClaret, 5 pieces, 10U lb. Cloth.— 80 to 100 gal.\nof water, 30 lb. cudbear, 3 gills sulphuric acid at\n170° Tw.; 1 lb. extract of indigo, 2 oz. magenta\n(acid) crystals; heat up to near boil before en-\ntering, and work for seventy-five minutes at\nboil.— G.\nDrab on Yarn (110 lb.). Boil for an hour with\n2 lb. 3 oz. logwood, 34 lb. fustic and the same\nweight each of camwood, copperas and argol.\nC.\nDrab on Cloth (110 lb.).— Boil together 334 lb.\nsumac, 634 lb. madder, with the decoction of 334\noz. sanders and 6 oz. fustic. Add 334 oz. argol\ncool, enter, boil for an hour, and sadden with\n1M oz. copperas.— C.\nDrab on Wool (110 lb.).— Boil for one hour\nwith 2 lb. 3 oz. logwood, 8% oz. fustic, the same\nweight of camwood, the same of copperas, and\nthe same of tartar. R.\nDark Drab on Wool (50 lb.).— Boil 4 lb. of\npeachwood, 5 lb. fustic and 2 lb. logwood. Take\nout the ware, cool, enter the goods, and boil for\none hour and a quarter and sadden with cop-\nperas.— C.\nSilver Drab on Wool (100 lb.).— Boil out in\na water 134 lb. ground logwood and lb. orchil.\nEnter, boil for seventy-five minutes, sadden\nwith 3 oz. copperas, and boil for twenty minutes\nmore. C.\nDrab on Worsted.— One Bath. 100 lb. wor-\nsted boil 5 lb. alum 5 lb. Glauber salts. Then\nadd 3 lb. extract of indigo, 134 lb. orchil, 1 oz.\npicric acid, 34 oz. blue violet, BB (E. Sehlbach\nCo.). Enter the yarn at 160° F., give six turns,\nbring to boiling heat, and boil about half hour,\ngive six turns, whiz well and dry. If the water\nis cloudy use about 4 oz. oxalic acid, and skim\nthe same before using dye stuffs.\nDark Fawn Drab on Worsted (50 lb.).-Dissolve\nat a boil 1 lb. red argol, 3 lb. alum, 2 lb. oil of\nvitriol, 2 lb. extract of indigo, 34 lb. extract of\norchil, 2 oz. orange Y (Levinstein Co.,\nManchester). Cool to 180° F.; give ten turns,\nand wash.— C.\nDark Fawn on Wool.— For 100 lb. wool. Work\nin a bath with tartar, 334 lb. sumac, 534 lb.\nfustic, 13 lb. Brazil wood, 10 lb. for one and\na half hours at the boil. Sadden with copperas.\n1 lb. Boil one hour longer, then add Brazil\nwood, 5 lb. sanders wood, 1 lb., and boil 24\nhour longer.\nGold on Venetian Carpet Yarn.— One Bath—\n80 lb. yarn. Dissolve 4 lb. oxalic acid, 2 lb. tin\ncrystal, J4 lb. tin solution or yellow mordant, 1\nlb. flavine, 6 oz. cochineal. This vat has to be\ncleansed by 34 lb. oxymuriate of tin, at 120° F.\nA thick mass will come to the surface and has to\nbe carefully skimmed, otherwise the color\nwould not be blight. Enter yarn at 160° F.»","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0185.jp2"},"184":{"fulltext":"Dyeinj\nDyeing.\nturn continually to boiling heat, to shade\ndesired.\nNote. A more decided yellow tint can be\nproduced by adding- more yellow mordant.\nCaution must be observed not to exceed the use\nof it, as the yarn will be harsh. Where the\nwater contains lime, a small quantity of crys-\ntal tartar will be beneficial to make the yarn\nmore even and soft.\nGreen (100 lb. wool).— Boil for ninety minutes\nwith 3 lb. bichromate of potash and 3 lb. sul-\nphate of soda crystals. Make up a fresh water\nwith 15 lb. viridine (Baden Anilin Fabrik) and\n10 lb. sumac. Enter at 160° F., raise to a boil,\nand keep at that temperature for one hour.\nThis color bears fulling, and is not affected by\nacids and light. C.\nAcid Green (50 lb. yarn).— Mordant for an\nhour at 180° F., with 2 lb. hyposulphite of soda\nand 2 lb. muriatic acid. Lift, and take through\na water with 2}^ oz. ammonia. Make up a\nwater at 120° F. with 8 oz. acid green F II.\nBindschedler Busch, of Bale), and turn to\nshade, raising the heat to a boil. Lift, wash,\nand dry.— C.\nLight Green (100 lb. wool).— Mordant at a boil\nwith 214, lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb.\ntartar, for ninety minutes. Dye in a fresh\nwater with 1 lb. methylene blue and 1 lb.\nextract of fustic. Boil for forty-five minutes,\nand let steep for four to eight hours. C.\nIodine Green, on Cloth. Enter the cloth in a\nbath made slightly alkaline with ammonia for\ntwo or three hours. Wash, and take through\nweak vitriol sours. Enter in color bath, and\n^iye to shade. The longer the bath is used the\nfiner are the shades dyed.— C.\nIodine Green on Wool (30 lb.).— Wash clean,\nput in a water with 3 oz. stannate of soda and\n1% oz. iodine green powder, previously dissolved\nin boiling water. Enter the wool, and boil for\nforty-five minutes, lift, and enter in a fresh\nwater which has been cleared with a little tin\ncrystals, and to which 2 lb. oil of vitriol has\nbeen added, and work to shade at a boil.— C.\nFast Green on Wool (219 lb.).— Prepare at a\nboil for one hour and a half with 19 lb. sulphate\nof alumina, 4% lb. chromate of potash, the\nsame weight of oil of vitriol, and 26 oz. tin crys-\ntals. Boil up in the dye-pan 1 lb. sulphate of\nalumina, and remove scum if needed, add 46 lb.\nacid extract of indigo, 18 oz. French extract of\nfustic, and 1 lb. salt. Boil for one hour and a\nhalf to two hours.— C.\nGreen.— 3 pieces 100 lb. cloth.— 80 to 100 gal.\nwater, 10 lb. alum, 1 pt. sulphuric acid, at 170°\nTw., 10 lb. extract of indigo, 134 lb. picric acid.\nBoil and enter, and work for ninety minutes.\nO.\nDark Green.— 5 pieces=100 lb. cloth.— 2 pt.\nsulphuric acid, 170° Tw., 5 lb. sulphate of soda,\n15 lb. extract of indigo, V/% lb. picric acid, 5 lb.\ncudbear. Enter at boil and work for ninety\nminutes. O.\nBottle Green (219 lb.).— Boil for an hour and a\nhalf with 6}4 lb. bichromate of potash and 334\nlb. argol, and dye at a boil for the same length\nof time in a water made up with 8% lb. French\nextract of fustic, 2 lb. 2 oz. extract of logwood,\nand 17££ lb. madder. Sadden with 20 oz. cop-\nperas, and boil for half an hour longer.— C.\nFast Green on Wool (219 lb.).— Prepare at a\nboil for ninety minutes with 19^ lb. sulphate\nof alumina (cake alum) 4 lb. 14 oz, chromate of\npotash, the same weight of sulphuric acid, and\n1 lb. 10 oz. tin crystals. Then boil up in the\ndye-pan 1 lb. 13^ oz. sulphate of alumina, and\nremove scum if needful; add 46 lb. ■chemic\n(some extract of indigo), 18 oz. French extract\nof fustic, and 1734 oz. salt. Boil for one and a\nhalf to two hours. The chemic is prepared\nwith 6 lb. 9 oz. indigo, and 26 lb. 4 oz. fuming\nsulphuric acid, diluting with 44 lb. water, after\nstanding for twenty-four hours.— B.\nScotch Green on Worsted.— One bath, 50 lb.\nworsted. Dissolve 10 lb. Glauber salts, 5 lb.\nalum, lb. red tartar, 20 lb. indigo paste, 4\noz. picric acid, 3^ gal. sulphuric acid. Proceed\nthe same with drugs as recipe No. 2, Scotch\nblue.\nBilliard Green on Cloth (110 lb.).— Dissolve in\na water 16 lb. 6 oz. alum, boil in it 22 lb. fustic,\nand add 5 lb. 7 oz. extract of indigo.\nGreenish Mode (Reseda) on Wool (55 lb.).\nBoil for 90 minutes with 1334 z chromate of\npotash and the same weight of tartar; let cool\nin the not, and dye by boiling for an hour with\n8^4 oz. fustic, and the same weight of logwood.\n—B.\nGreen on Yarn (11 lb.).— Add to a water 26 oz.\nground fustic, boil up, remove the wood, dis-\nsolve 334 lb. alum and 1 lb. argol in the bath,\nstir well up, and add 3 oz. extract of indigo,\nlet dissolve, cool, enter yarn, and dye for half\nan hour at a boil.— C.\nAurantine Green (128 lb. yarn or wool).— Dis-\nsolve 10 lb. alum, 4 lb extract indigo, 2 lb. tar-\ntar, 4 lb. oil of vitriol, 5 lb. salt to 1 lb. auran-\ntine. The aurantine is dissolved separately in\n2 gal. water with 3 oz. tin crystals. When dis-\nsolved add to the dye-beck. Cool, enter, raise\nto a boil, and dye to shade.— C.\nGreen on Shoddy (100 lb.).— Boil with 12 lb.\nalum, 2 lb. chromate of potash, 2 lb. common\nsalt, 1 lb. tin crystals, and 2 lb. oil of vitriol.\nDye in a fresh water made up with 4 lb. alum, 2\nlb. common salt, 5 lb. extract of indigo, and 2\nlb. fustic— C.\nBrilliant Green on Wool (55 lb.).— Dye with\n8 oz. Nicholson blue and 34 oz. borax. After\ntwo hours a sample is plunged into dilute sul-\nphuric acid to see if the shade has been reached.\nAs soon as this point is gained, the goods are\ndrained and plunged into a water containing\n26 oz, sulphuric acid and 534 oz. picric acid.— C.\nGreen on Worsted (25 lb.).— Dissolve 3 oz. new\nacid green (F. Bayer Co., of Barmen), 3 lb.\nsulphate of soda, lb. oil of vitriol. Clear the\nliquid, if needful, enter at 150° F., turn briskly,\nand raise slowly to a boil. The green should\nbe dissolved in the cold. C.\nDark Peacock Green on Worsted Yarn (25\nlb.).— Dye in an alkaline bath with 2 oz. Nichol-\nson blue and 3 oz. Victoria green (Baden Ani-\nline Co.), for three-quarters of an hour. Lift,\nrinse, and finish in sours at 150° F., giving five\nturns. C.\nDark Green on Flannel (100 lb.).— Mordant\nwith 2% lb. bichromate of potash and 2 lb. tar-\ntar, boiling for one hour and a half. Dye in a\nfresh water with 1% lb. methylene blue O\n(Baden Aniline Co.) and 13^ lb. each extracts\nof logwood and fustic, boiling for three-quar-\nters of an hour.— C.\nFast Dark Green on Wool (100 lb.).— Boil for\none hour and a half with 134 lb. bichromate of\npotash, lb. tin crystals, 8 lb. alum and 1 pt.\noil of vitriol. Enter in a fresh water with 15\nlb. extract of indigo, 2 lb. extract of fustic, 4\nlb. alum and 4 lb. salt. Boil till level.— C.\nOlive Green on Wool (100 lb.).— Add to a boil-\ning water lib. new yellow, 1 4 oz. orchil sub-\nstitute (both of Lutz Moebius, New York),\n23^ lb. extract indigo, 8 lb. sulphate of soda, 3\nlb. oil of vitriol and 2 lb. alum. Work the yarn\nat a boil for one hour and a quarter.— C.\nEtincelle Green on Woolen Yarn (100 lb.).\nPrepare for an hour in a water at 180° F., con-\ntaining 8 lb. hyposulphite of soda and 8 lb. mu-\nriatic acid. Lift, and wash in a fresh water,\ncold, with 4 oz. ammonia.- Make up a fresh\nwater at 120° F., with lib. green etincelle (Mon-\nnet Co., of Geneva). Enter yarn, turn to\nshade, raising temperature to a boil, lift, wash,\nand dry. The solid greens J and J 4 of the\nsame firm are dyed in the same manner. C.\nEmerald Green on Worsted (50 lb. yarn).\nDissolve in very pure water 6 oz. emerald green\n(Baden Aniline Co.) and 4 oz. oil of vitriol.\nEnter at 160° F., and turn constantly while\nraising temperature to 180° F.— C.\nSea Green on Coarse Woolen Yarn (55 lb.).\nMake up a water with prepared tartar, 8 lb.;\nsulphate of soda, 2 lb.; argol, 8% oz. Dissolve","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0186.jp2"},"185":{"fulltext":"I yeinj\n173\nDyeing.\nseparately in a pot. Light green (Baden Ani-\nline Co.), 7 /s oz.; indigotine, 1% oz.; cochineal\nwaste, 5 to 7 oz.— C.\nImperial Green.— To dissolve the color (of G.\nDore Co., of Frankfort-on-the-Main), add\nthe color along with an equal weight of acetic\nacid at 9^° Tw., to about ten times its weight\nof hot water. Raise to a boil, and filter. En-\nter at 140° F., and gradually raise to a boil.\nThe addition of more acetic acid gives a bluer\ntone, while picric acid, with very little sul-\nphuric, turns it yellower. C.\nI Dark Steel Green on Half Woolens (56 lb.).—\nMordant for an hour at a boil with 83^ oz. chro-\nmate of potash, 7 oz. oil of vitriol, and the\njsame weight of tin crystals. Let the goods lie\novernight, and dye in a fresh water with 19\nJoz. extract of indigo, 4*4 oz. extract fustic, and\n14 oz. extract logwood, boiling for half an hour.\nThey are then, if needful, brought up to shade\nwith a little decoction of logwood, steeped\novernight in a little lukewarm solution of 8H\ntannin, taken through cold black liquor at 134°\nTw. for half an hour, aired, rinsed, and cotton\ndyed in the cold with the solution of 7 oz.\ni methyl green B, oz. extract of fustic, and\nthe same weight extract of logwood.— C.\nReddish Gray on Yarns (55 lb.).— Boil for an\nhour with 6J^ lb. fustic, 5)4 lb. catechu, 4J^ oz.\nchromate of potash, and 13 oz. copperas.— C.\nGray Mode (110 lb.).— Boil for an hour with\n4J4 oz. alum, 53^ lb. sulphate of soda, 17 oz. oil\nof vitriol, 1% oz. extract of indigo, and the\nsame weight of orchil liquor.— C,\nSlate Gray (55 lb.).— Boil the wool or pieces\nwith 11 lb. logwood, 17 oz. sulphate of soda, and\n8 oz. sulphuric acid. Lift, and dissolve in the\nbeck 8 oz. copperas, re-enter, and boil for an-\nother half hour. If a very blue tone is requir-\nen, top with ammonia.— C.\nPearl Gray on Wool and Yarns (218 lb.).— Give\na light blue ground in the vat, and rinse well.\nAdd to a water 34 oz. perchloride of tin, boil\nup and skim carefully. Add 5^ lb. chloride of\ntin and 26 oz. ammoniacal cochineal, and dye\nfor forty-five minutes at a boil.— C.\nLight Gray on Wool (55 lb.).— Boil for an hour\nwith 8% oz. perchloride of tin, 1 lb. 9 oz. alum,\noz. extract of indigo and 1 oz. cochineal.— C.\nReddish Gray on Yarn (40 lb.).— Alum, 51b.;\nargol, 13^ lb.; extract of indigo, 10 oz,; fustic, 1\nlb., and orchil 10 oz. Boil, cool, enter and dye\nat a boil of three-quarters of an hour.— C.\nMode Gray on Yarn (100 lb.).— Boil for thirty\nminutes with 25 lb. alum and 3 lb. argol. Lift,\nand add to the same beck 10 lb. extract of in-\ndigo, 15 lb. fustic and 1 lb. picric acid. Enter\nat a boil, and work for forty minutes. C.\nSlate Gray on Alpaca (50 lb.).— Boil with 4 lb.\nalum and 2 lb. argol, and dye with 3 lb. ground\nlogwood, 4 oz. cudbear, and 2 oz. extract of in-\ndigo.— C.\nGreenish Gray on Cloth (10 lb.).— Boil oz.\ngalls, 34 lb. fustic and 1 lb. argol. Cool, enter\ngoods boil for half an hour, lift, and add 3 oz.\ncopperas re-enter, and dye to shade at a boil.\nReddish Gray on Cloth (10 lb,).— Boil 6 oz.\ngalls, 34 lb madder and 1 lb. argol. Cool, enter\nthe cloth; boil for half an hour, lift, and add 34\nlb. copperas; re-enter, and dye to shade at a\nboil.— C.\nLead Color on Wool (260 lb.).— Boil for an hour\nwith logwood 22 lb., sumac 34 oz., fustic and\nalum 1 lb. each, argol 34 lb. At the end of this\ntime sprinkle the solution of 2 lb. 10 oz. into the\nbeck and boil for half an hour longer.— C.\nFast Ash Gray on Cloth (70 lb.).— Give a me-\ndium blue in the vat, and enter in a water with\n334 lb. sumac, the same weight of tartar, 4% lb.\ncalliatura wood, 634 lb. madder, 334 lb. ground\nfustic, and 1 lb. 10 oz. ground logwood. Boil\nthe pieces for an hour and sadden with 8-% oz.\ncopperas.— C.\nWood Gray (on 132 lb.).— Boil for an hour\nwith 34 oz. argoi, 13 oz. madder, 8% oz. fustic,\n26 oz. sumac and 134 piggins logwood liquor.\nSadden with 1 oz. copperas.— C.\nSilver Gray on Half Woolen Cloth (20 lb.).—\nDissolve 2 oz. tannin in a hot water, and turn\nfor an hour. Sadden in a fresh water with 1 lb.\nnitrite of iron to shade.— C.\nFast Pearl Gray (120 lb.).— Dry a light blue in\nthe vat, rinse, and make up a boiling water\nwith 3 lb. alum, 3 lb. tartar, 2J4 lb. cochineal\nand lib. sulphate of tin. Enter, and boil for\ntwenty-five minutes.— C.\nIvory on Woolen Cloth (for two pieces of 42\nlb.).— A bath is made of 2 lb. alum, 2 lb. tartar,\n1 oz. indigo carmine and 2 oz. madder, in which\nthe cloth is boiled for one hour.\nJacquineaux on Worsted (50 lb.).— Prepare 2\nlb. alum, 4 lb. Glauber salts, 2 oz. fast red, R, 2\noz. fast red, RRR— (Pickhardt Kuttroffj.\nEnter at 150° F., turn continually, and raise to\nboiling, which will produce scarlet shade.\nSecond bath, 4 oz. fuchsine, 34 lb. orchil car-\nmine (Pickhardt Kuttroff). Enter at 150° F.,\nraise to 21)0° F.\nNote 1.— In the first bath it is liable to turn\nuneven, but by careful working and quick\nturning, it can be avoided.- 2.— This is a valu-\nable substitute for cochineal.\nWood Color on Half Woolens (4 lb. 6 oz.).—\nSulphate of soda 2 lb. 3oz., sulphate of alumina\n4 lb. 6 oz., orchil 2 piggins, turmeric 11 lb. Dye,\nwash, and pass into a water, to which have\nbeen added bichromate of potash, turmeric,\nand redwood.— C.\nBlue Lavender on Yarns (110 lb Boil for an\nhour with 2 lb. 3 oz. logwood, 434 oz. extract of\nindigo, 1 lb. orchil, J4 lb. each alum and cop-\nperas.— C.\nLavender on Wool (100 lb.).— Boil out with 5\nlb. logwood, 31b. orchil, and 34 lb. camwood;\nenter the goods, boil for one hour and a\nquarter, and sadden with 10 oz. copperas.— C.\nModes on Alpaca (100 lb.). The term\nmodes, often met with in French and Ger-\nman receipts for dyeing, has no exact equiva-\nlent in English. It includes a number of very\nimpure colors, which are neither brown, gray,\ndrab, nor olive, but incline sometimes to one\nand sometimes to another.\nShade 1.— Boil with 2 lb. argol, 3 lb. madder,\nlb. fustic, 34 lb. ground logwood, lb. galls,\n34 lb. cudbear, and 2 oz. extract of indigo. Sad-\nden with 34 lb. copperas.\nShade 2.-2 lb. argol, 5 lb. madder, 134 lb.\nground fustic, 34 lb. galls, 34 lb. cudbear, and\n1 lb. ground logwood. Sadde with 1 lb. cop-\nperas.\nShade 3.— Boil with 134 lb. bichromate potash\nand 1 lb. argol. Dye with 12 oz. ground log-\nwood, 1 lb. ground fustic, 8 lb. madder, and 4\noz. galls. Sadden with 1 oz. copperas.\nShade 4.— Boil with 8 lb. madder, 3 lb. callia-\ntura wood, 1 oz. galls, 1 lb. argol, and 20 oz.\nground fustic. Sadden with 2 oz. copperas and\n4 oz. cudbear.\nShade 5.— 1 lb. argol, 4 lb. madder, 134 lh.\nground fustic, 1 oz. galls and 8 oz. cudbeaiv\nSadden with 134 oz. copperas.\nShade 6.— Boil with 4 lb. alum and 1 lb. argol,\nand dye with 234 lb. ground fustic and 4 oz.\nmadder. Sadden with 1 oz. copperas.— C.\nMedium Blue Mode on Half Woolens (100\nlb.) The wool is first dyed with Nicholson blue,\ni 7 5 lb.; soda, 134 lb., at a boiling heat for an\nhour, and raised in a fresh, hot water, with the\nnecessary quantity of sulphuric acid. The\ngoods are then steeped overnight in the hot\nsolution of tannin 1J4 lb. and hasmatine lb.\nThey are then taken through a cold black\nliquor at 234° Tw., rinsed, taken again through\nthe tannin bath and rinsed. Instead of hrema-\ntine, decoction of logwood may be used, and\nthe goods may be topped with extract of indigo,\nmethyl blue or methyl violet, according to the\nshade required.— 0.\nYellowish Mode for Mixed Goods (10 lb.).—\nBoil 1 lb. good catechu in water let settle and\ndissolve 134 oz. bluestone in the clear solution.\nRaise to a boil and work the goods first at that\nheat, and afterward at 12^° F. Lift, drain and","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0187.jp2"},"186":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n174\nDyeing.\nmake up a cold water with 3^2 lb. nitrate of iron.\nWork for an hour, drain in the centrifugal,\nand make up a fresh boiling- water with 1^ oz.\nchromate of potash. Work for quarter of an\nhour, rinse and dry. For yellower tones, a\nlittle fustic and alum may be added and for\nredder tones, peachwood and magenta.— C.\nMulberry on Wool (11 lb.).— Boil for an hour\nand a half with 2% oz. chromate of potash, 7\noz. alum, 1% oz. bluestone and 53^ oz. prepared\ntartar. Let cool in the not, or rinse at once.\nThen dye in a water with 30 oz. logwood, 5}4 lb.\nearn wood and 1 lb. cudbear, boiling for seventy-\nfive minutes. C.\nMulberry on Cloth (841b.).— Boil with lj/ 2 lb.\nbichromate of potash, and dye in a fresh water\nwith 101b. camwood, 10 lb. logwood, 10 lb. cud-\nbear, boiling for half an hour and adding 1 qt.\nammonia. 0.\nGreenish Mode on Yarns (55 lb.).— Boil for an\nhour with 13 oz. chromate of potash and the\nsame weight of argol. Let cool in the liquid\nand dye in a fresh water at a boil for one hour,\nAvith 2 lb. 3 oz. fustic, 9 oz. sanders and the same\nweight of sumac— C.\nGreenish Olive on Yarns (55 lb.).— Prepare as\nin the last receipt and dye with catechu 2 lb.\n3 oz., fustic 6^ lb. and logwood 17 oz.— C.\nAnother Olive on Yarns (55 lb.).— Prepare as\nabove and dye with 2 lb. 3 oz. logwood, 17 oz.\nfustic and the same weight each of sumac and\nGolden Olive on Wool (219 lb.) —Boil for an\nhour and a half with 6% lb. chromate of potash,\n3)4 lb. bluestone and 1 lb. 10 oz. oil of vitriol.\nDye with 12 lb. French extract of fustic, 17 oz.\nFrench extract of logwood, 6^ lb. sanders, and\nthe same weight of madder. Boil for an hour\nand a quarter, sadden with 26 oz. copperas and\nboil for half an hour longer.— C.\nGolden Olive on Cloth (1101b.).— Boil together,\nthe decoction of 88 lb. fustic, 22 lb. turmeric,\n2% lb. orchil, 11 lb. alum and 4 lb. 6 oz. argol.\nCool, enter and boil for an hour.— C,\nLight Olive on Wool (50 lb.).— Boil for an\nhour and a half with J lb. chromate of potash,\n}4 lb. argol, and 34 lb. alum. Dye in a fresh\nwater with 34 lb. logwood, 1 lb. fustic and 34 lb.\ncamwood. C.\nOlives on Carpet Yarn (100 lb.).— Dye in water\nslightly soured with oil of vitriol, at 160° F.,\nWith 1 lb. olive No. 1 (Clayton Aniline Company,\nManchester). Raise to a boil, work for thirty\nminutes and wash. Use the olive in two\nhalves one to begin with and the other in\nabout fifteen minutes.\nOlives No. 2 and No. 3, used in the same man-\nner, give different shades.— C.\nOlive on Woolen Reps (10 lb.).— Boil for\nforty-five minutes with alum 5J4 oz., oil of\nvitriol 4% oz. Lift and add to the same bath,\npicric acid 63^ oz., extract of indigo 6 to 634 oz.\nBoil for forty-five minutes, lift, and add orchil\n14 to 153^ oz. Boil till even, and wash.— C.\nBronze Olive on Cloth (50 lb.).— Boil for two\nhours with fustic, 38 lb. logwood, 3 lb. ;pallia-\ntura wood, 3^ lb. sumac, 3 lb.; argol, 2 lb. Sad-\nden with bluestone, 2 lb. Boil for an hour, and\nthen add copperas, 2 lb. and boil for an hour\nlonger.— C.\nNew Orange (100 lb. yarn).— Dissolve in a\nwater 10 lb. sulphate of soda, V/o, lb. of the\nNew Atlas Orange 11 (Brooke, Simpson\nSpiller) and 2 lb. oil of vitriol. Enter at 180° F.,\nraise to 212° F. and boil for fifteen minutes.— C.\nOrange (50 lb. yarn).— Make up a water at 170°\nF. with 8 oz. orange (Bindschedler, Busch\nCo.). Add 13^ lb. oil of vitriol. Give three to\nfive turns, raising to a boil and boil for ten\nminutes.— C.\nOrange (110 lb. cloth).— Boil up in a water 26 oz.\nperchloride of tin add 5 lb. oxalic acid, 3J4 lb.\ntin crystals, 17 oz. fiavine and from 7 to 17\noz. cochineal. Cool, enter the cloth, and boil\nfor three-quarters of an hour.— C.\nAurantine Orange on Yarn (100 lb.).— Add\nto a water 1 lb. aurantine, 2 lb. tartar, 3 lb.\ncochineal, 3^ lb. tin crystals, 8 lb. muriate of\ntin and 5 lb. muriatic acid. Boil ten minutes\nbefore entering the yarn cool, enter, turn for\nten minutes and boil for half an hour. Rinse\nand dry.— C.\nOrange on Worsted (50 lb.).— Prepare bath\nwith 2^ lb. oil of vitriol and 3^ lb. fast orange\n(Reid, Halliday Sons, Huddersfield). Enter\nat 180° F., raise to a boil, turn to shade and\nwash.— C.\nLight Orange on Cloth (84 lb.).— Boilup in a\nwater 8 lb. fustic, add 20 oz. ground cochineal,\n1 gal. nitrate of tin and 4 lb. tartar crystals.\nBoil for three minutes and enter.— C.\nOrange on Half Woolens (4 lb. 6 oz).— Dye in\none bath. Dissolve annatto, 63^ lb., in carbon-\nate of soda, 4 lb. 6 oz. Dissolve at a boil and\nadd turmeric according to the shade. Enter in\nthe dye beck cold and raise the heat till the\nshade is obtained. Wash.— C.\nDyeing Cochineal Red on Flannel f22 lb.\nflannel). 1 lb. 10 oz. oxalic acid, 8% oz. tin\ncrystals, 2 lb. 3 oz. cochineal and oz. flavine\nare boiled well together, cooled, the goods en-\ntered and winced till the desired shade is pro-\nduced. If a blue tone is required no flavine is\nadded, but for yellow tones as much as 1% oz.\nflavine may be used.\nScarlet (50 b. yarn).— Make up a water with\n5 lb. sulphate of soda, 1 lb. oil of vitriol, and 10\noz. ponceau 3 R C (of A. Poirrier, of Paris).\nEnter yarn at 180°, give three turns, raise to a\nboil, which is kept up for fifteen minutes.\nLift, wash and dry.— C.\nScarlet (50 lb. yarn).— Make up water at 170°\nF., with 8 oz. scarlet R R (Bindschedler,\nBusch Co., of Bale), and 1J^ lb. oil of vitriol.\nEnter, give three to five turns while raising to\na boil boil for ten minutes, wash and dry.— C.\nNew Atlas Scarlet (100 lb. yarn).— Dissolve in\na water 1% lb. New Atlas Scarlet No. 1 (Brooke,\nSimpson Spiller), 10 lb. sulphate of soda, and\n2 lb. oil of vitriol. Enter at 180° F., raise to\n212° F., and boil for a quarter of an hour.— C.\nCrimson on Cloth (20 lb.).— Dissolve 1% oz.\nmagenta crystals in 1 lb. glycerine at a boil,\nfilter, and add the solution to a water in which\n3^ lb. picric acid and 34 lb. carbonate of soda\ncrystals are dissolved. Boil the bath for a\nquarter of an hour, and skim off any impuri-\nties which rise to the surface. Enter the cloth,\nand dye to shade at a boil. Drain, but do not\nrinse. C\nCochineal Pink (30 lb.).— Make up a water\nwith 1 pt. tin solution and lb. of tartaric\nacid; let it boil, skim, add lb. cochineal, let\ncool a little. Enter the wool, and boil for half\nan hour. The tin solution is made by dissolv-\ning 5 lb. tin in a mixture of 10 lb. muriatic and\n10 lb. nitric acids.— C.\nFast Cochineal Crimson on Wool (10 lb.).— Boil\na water for ten minutes with 3*£ lb. tartar crys-\ntals, and skim if needed. Add 1 lb. alum and\nlb. tin solution. Boil the wool in this mor-\ndant for half an hour, and then dye with 134 lb.\nammoniacal cochineal paste and a small quan-\ntity of tin solution. C.\nFast Alizarine Red on Yarn (22 lb.).— Boil for\none hour and a half with 334 lb. sulphate of\nalumina and 17 oz. tartar. Rinse well, and dye\nwith 14 oz. alizarine paste at 10$, entering the\ngoods in the cold beck, and raising to a boil. If\nthe spent beck is mixed with 17 oz. sulphate of\nalumina, the same weight bisulphate of soda,\na little fustic and indigo-extract residues, it\nproduces a fine brown.— C.\nAnother Alizarine Red. Put the wool or\nwoolen goods in a solution of 34 oz. soap, in 22\nlb. water at 110° F., for twenty minutes. Press\nbetween cloths, dry in hot air, take thi ough\nred liquor at 5° Tw., to which has been added a\nsolution of 1 oz. sulpho-muriate of tin per pt.,\nand dry in hot air. Take through a solution\nof 60 grn. silicate of soda at 92° Tw. for 35 fl. oz.\nHeat to 110° F., wash, and drain in the cen-\ntrifugal. Dye with alizarine for reds, using for\n35 oz. wool, 7 oz. alizarine at 10° F.— C.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0188.jp2"},"187":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n175\nDyeing.\nRose on Wool, for Fulling (110 lb.).— Boil up\n13 lb. 2 oz. alum, 534 lb. argol, 8% oz. perchloride\nof tin, the same weight of tin crytals and 2 lb.\n3 oz. cochineal. Cool, enter the wool and dye\nfor an hour.— C.\nCrimson 3n Yarn, for Fulling (55 lb.).— Make\nup a water with 8% oz. perchloride of tin and\nan equal weight of oil of vitriol. Add a clear\nsolution of magenta as required. Enter yarns,\ndve at a boil, rinse and dry.— C.\nFull Ked on Yarn, for Fulling (74 lb.).— Boil\nup a water with 34 oz. perchloride of tin, add to\nthe beck 434 lb. oxalic acid, 2^4 lb. tin crystals,\nll 34 oz. flavine and 20 oz. cochineal. Cool, enter\nthe yarn and dye at a boil for half an hour.\nAdd 4 lb. 6 oz. alum and boil for fifteen min-\nutes longer.— C.\nAurantine Ponceau (80 lb.).— Boil up 2 oz.\naurantine, 6 oz. tin crystals, 10 lb. cochineal, 2\nlb. tartar, J4 lb. tin crystals. Boil ten minutes,\ncool, enter yarn, turn ten minutes, boil for half\nan hour, rinse and dry. C.\nAurantine Scarlet (80 lb.).— Add to a water 8\nlb. cochineal, 2 lb. tartar, 8 lb. muriate of tin, 6\noz. tin crystals and 2 oz. aurantine. Work as\nin the last receipt.— C.\nCrimson on Alpaca (100 lb.).— Prepare at a boil\nwith 4 lb. alum and 34 lb. tartar, and dye with\n10 oz. best magenta. C.\nMagenta on Shoddy (100 lb.).— Boil with 8 lb.\nalum and 1 lb. argol, and dye with 10 oz. ma-\ngenta.— C.\nRouge de Gravelotte. A cochineal red,\ngrounded as usual with cochineal, oxalic acid\nand tin crystals, and topped in a fresh water\nwith magenta, or preferably with saffranine.\nC.\nPonceau on Cloth (100 lb.).— Clear the water\nat a boil with 34 lb. perchloride of tin, boil 234\nlb. bark, tied up in a bag, for fifteen minutes.\nTake out the bag and add 4 lb. oxalic acid, 3 lb.\ntin crystals, 1 lb. tartaric acid, 1 lb. tartar crys-\ntals and 6J4 to 7 lb. ground cochineal. Boil up,\ncool and enter the goods previously wetted.— C.\nRed for Woolen Yarns, for Fulling (100 lb.).—\nBoil with 8 lb. cochineal, 8 lb. tartar crystals, 4\nlb. oxalic acid, 4 lb. tin crystals, 6 lb. tin solu-\ntion and 6 lb. young fustic lake. The tin solu-\ntion is made by dissolving 10 lb. tin crystals and\n25 lb. bichloride of tin in 334 gal. hot water.— C.\nFiery Madder Red on Wool, to bear Fulling\n(100 lb.).— Boil for an hour with 12 lb. alum, 10\nlb. tartar, 2 lb. oxalic acid. Rinse and dye with\n50 lb. madder, boiling slowly for one hour and a\nhalf to two hours. The color is faster if 25 lb.\nalum are taken; 13 lb. garancine may be used\ninstead of the madder, or about 5 lb. alizarine\nfor red.— C.\nRose and Crimson on Woolen Yarns.— Dis-\nsolve 2 parts magenta, 2 parts silicate of soda, 1\npart sulphate of soda, and (for the crimson) a\nlittle picric acid. Work the yarn at 167° F.\nThe magenta must be well dissolved and\nstrained to prevent spotting. After dyeing,\nwork the yarns for a quarter of an hour in a\nfresh, cold water with two parts hyposulphite\nof soda.— C.\nSalmon.— 5 pieces =100 lb. of cloth, dye vessel,\nwater usual quantity, 2 pt. protochloride of\ntin, 120° Tw., 4 oz. flavine, 6 oz. cochineal, 41b.\nbitartrate of potash. Enter at boil, and work\nfor 40 minutes. Wash.— O.\nSang de Boeuf on Yarns (11 lb.).— Boil for\nthree-quarters of an hour with 2% oz. chro-\nmate of potash, 34 oz. bluestone, 13 oz. argol, 1\noz. sulphuric acid. Let the yarn cool in the\nbath, and then dye in a fresh water with 434 lb.\npeachwood and 434 to 534 oz. logwood. Boil\nfor half an hour.— C.\nDarker Sang de Boeuf on Yarns (11 lb.).—\nPrepare at a boil with 434 oz. chromate of\npotash, oz. bluestone, 13 oz. argol, 134 oz. oil\nof vitriol. Let cool in the liquid, and dye for\nhalf an hour at a boil with 434 lb. peachwood,\n34 lb. fustic and 1 lb. logwood. The woods are\nused in the form of clear decoctions, added by\ndegrees.— C.\nScarlet on Worsted (50 lb.).— Dissolve 334 oz.\nscarlet XXB and 2 oz. orange (both of Banning,\nBissell Co., New York), 8 lb. sulphate of soda,\n134 lb. oil of vitriol, 34 lb. alum. Cool, enter at\n180° F., raise to a boil and turn to shade.— C.\nGarnet on Floss Worsted (60 lb.).— Boil 6 lb.\nsulphate of soda, 2 lb. alum, 3 lb. sulphuric acid,\n6 oz. orange A, lb. maroon S, 2 oz. magenta\n5 (all three of the Baden Aniline Co.). Cool,\nenter yarn and boil to shade. After boiling\nhalf an hour, add 34 lb. extract of indigo.— C.\nCrimson on Carpet Yarn (100 lb.).— Dissolve\n10 lb. sulphate of soda, 2 lb. alum, 3 lb. oil of\nvitriol, 34 lb. scarlet and 3 oz. magenta (both of\nLevinstein Co., Manchester). Enter at 180°\nF., ten turns while raising to 212° F., and turn\nto shade.— C.\nRuby (100 lb. yarn).— Dissolve 134 lb. orselline\n(Clayton Aniline Co., Manchester). Enter at\n160° F. and raise to a boil, turning to shade.\nThe addition of alum brightens.— C.\nGarnet on Worsted Yarn (50 lb.).— Boil 5 lb.\nsulphate of soda, 3 lb. oil of vitriol, 10 oz.\nnacarat, and 3 oz. orange (both of the Berlin\nAktien Gesellschaft), and 34 lb. extract of\nindigo. Enter, boil for three-quarters of an\nhour, turning to shade.— C.\nScarlet on Worsted (50 lb.). Dissolve 3 lb.\nalum, 3 lb. sulphate of soda, 234 lb. oil of\nvitriol, 1 lb. fast scarlet R (Reid, Halliday\nSons, Huddersfield). Enter at. 180° F., five\nturns, raise to a boil and turn to shade.\nWash.— C.\nRose Bengale on Woolen Yarn (50 lb.).— Dis-\nsolve in water 4 lb. alum and 3 oz. rose Ben-\ngale B (Farbwerke, Hoechst am Main). En-\nter yarn at 180 F., and turn to shade, raising\ntemperature to a boil. C.\nFast Cardinal on Wool (100 lb.).— Dissolve 134\nlb. orange 23 and 5 oz. acid magenta (Bredt\nCo., New York), along with 13 lb. sulphate of\nsoda and 2 qts. oil of vitriol. Enter and boil to\nshade.— C.\nPhloxine on Woolen Yarn (50 lb.).— Dissolve\nin a hot water 341b. phloxine BB (P. Monnet\n6 Co., Geneva). Enter yarn at 180° F., five\nturns while raising to a boil. Lift and add 34\nlb. acetic acid. Re-enter, give four turns.— C\nEosine on Woolen Yarn (50 lb.).— Dissolve 6\noz. eosine (P. Monnet Co.), enter yarn and\nwork in the same manner as phloxine.\nThe Eosine J of the same firm is dyed as\nfollows (100 lb.): Dissolve 20 oz. eosine J, and\nadd the half of it and 1 pt. acetic acid to a water\nat 120° F. Enter yarn, work for half an hour\nlift and add the remainder of the color to the\nacid. Re-enter yarn, work for another half\nhour, raising the heat to 180° F. Wash and dry.\nThe Rose Bengal NT of the same firm is\nalso dyed in the same manner.— C.\nFlesh Color on Worsted (50 lb.).— Clear the\nwater well, if needful, by boiling it up with a\nlittle sulphate of soda and sulphuric acid.\nAfter skimming add 5 lb. sulphate of soda and\n1 lb. oil of vitriol with oz. scarlet RRR (Farb-\nwerke, Hoechst am Main). Enter at 150° F.,\nturn well, heating to 180° F. and work to\ncVi q r\\ o\nFast Bluish Cardinal on Wool (50 lb.).— Boil\nup 6 oz. magenta S and 1 oz. orange A (both of\nthe Baden Aniline Co.), 10 lb. sulphate of soda,\n5 lb. alum and add 3 lb. oil of vitriol. Cool,\nenter yarn at 150° F., turn till level, raise to a\nboil, which is kept up for one hour.— C.\nScarlet.— 75 lb. cloth or yarn, 1% lb. eosine\ndissolved in the bath, say at 120° F. ^49° C), add\n3 gills sulphuric acid at 170° T w. Enter the goods\nsay at 140° to 145° F. (60°-63° C), and gradually\nbring to boil in from fifteen to twenty minutes\nand take out.— O.\nRocceline Scarlet (11 lb.).— Boil for an hour\nand a half with y± oz. stannate of soda and the\nsame weight each of tartaric acid and oxalate\nof potash. Lift and dye in a fresh water, boil-\ning for one hour with 334 oz. rocceline and\noz. saffranine of a yellowish tone. Let the\nwool cool in the liquor, lift and rinse. Darker","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0189.jp2"},"188":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n1T6\nDyeing.\nshades may be obtained in a similar manner by\npreparing- the same quantity of wool with 1%\noz. oxalate of potash and oz. alum.— C.\nFast Red on Cloth (60 lb.).— Prepare a clean\nwater at a boil, and add 34 lb. alum, 34 lb. solid\nchloride of tin and 1 lb. powdered starch.\nSkim carefully and take the cloth through\nslightly to dampen the same. Add to the bath\n8 lb. alum, 2 lb. tartaric emetic, pt. acetic\nacid, the solution of 2 oz. aniline orange. When\nwell mixed, enter and raise to boiling point in\nhalf an hour. Let cool down to 170° F. and add,\nin three doses, the solution of 6 oz. eosine B\ngradually increase the temperature again while\nturning the cloth, and shade off with 2 oz. ani-\nline orange and pt. acetic acid. This red may\nbe dyed in copper vessels and is only half the\nprice of a cochineal red. It may be dyed over\nblack checks without interfering with the\nblack.— C.\nAnother Fast Red on Cloth (24 lb.).— Boil in a\nwater containing 4 lb. alum, 12 lb. madder, 434\nlb. tartar crystals, and 3 lb. nitrate of tin. Let\nlie twenty-four hours and pass into a water\nwith 5 lb. cochineal, 34 lb. tartar, and boil for\nan hour. Add 5 lb, lacdye and 2 lb. nitrate of\ntin; boil for an hour and pass into a bath of 3\nlb. madder and 2 lb. nitrate of tin.— C.\nNew Scarlet on Wool (60 lb.).— Yarn well\nscoured, washed in warm water and whizzed.\nRun beck three-quarters full of water and boil.\nPut in 10 oz. scarlet OO (A. Poirrier, of Paris,\nand Thompson, of Manchester). Boil well and\nadd 91b. sulphate of soda and 1 qt. oil vitriol. Fill\nup with cold water, stir well and enter yarn.\nKeep turning for fifteen to twenty minutes\nand heat gradually to a boil in seventy-five min-\nutes. This is a very fast scarlet.— C.\nGarnet on Half Woolens.— Boil for half an\nhour with a water containing 634 oz. bichro-\nmate of potash, 434 oz. oil of vitriol and 2 oz.\nbluestone. Rinse and enter in a water at 122°\nF., containing magenta 1% oz. and methyl vio-\nlet 34 oz. Heat to a boil, lift, wash and rinse.\nC.\nClaret on Half Woolens.— Boil for half an\nhour with bichromate of potash 634 oz., oil of\nvitriol 434 oz. and bluestone 2 oz. Rinse and\ndye with magenta 1% oz., aniline scarlet 1%\noz., orchil 6% lb., and turmeric 12 oz. Enter\ncold, raise slowly to a boil, and after boiling\nfor an hour and a half lift and wash.— C.\nCorinthe on Damask (20 yds.).— Boil for half\nan hour with alum 17 oz., argol 17 oz. Then add\norchil 2 lb. 2 oz., extract of indigo 834 oz., oil of\nvitriol 34 oz. Dye to shade at boil. Lift and\nrinse.— C.\nDark Garnet on Half Woolens (22 lb.).— Dye\nthe wool to shade in boiling water with orchil,\na little extract of indigo and prepared tartar.\nSteep overnight at a hand heat with cathechu,\n2 lb. 3 oz.; bluestone, 7 oz. Sadden at hand\nheat with chromate of potash, 334 oz.; cop-\nperas, 1% oz. Steep overnight in the cold solu-\ntion of 2 lb. 3 oz. alum, and dye the cotton to\nshade in the cold, with the decoctions of peach-\nwood, fustic and logwood.— C.\nRed on Half Woolens (11 lb.).— Boil for an\nhour with 17 oz. white argol and the same weight\nof argol. Dye at a boil for fifteen minutes\nwith 4 lb. 14 oz. peachwood and 2% lb. fustic.\nRinse, steep for fifteen minutes in the decoc-\ntion of 21b. 3 oz. fustic and work for the same\nlength of time in red cotton spirits at 4° Tw.\nLet drain and cotton dye to shade in the cold\ndecoction of 17 oz. peachwood and the same\nweight of f ustic— C.\nReseda on Yarns (55 lb.).— Boil for an hour\nand a half with 13 oz. each chromate of potash\nand argol. Let cool in the liquor, and dye at\na boil for an hour with J4 lb. fustic and 1 lb. log-\nwood.— C.\nSolid Shades for Wool.— Ash Gray.— Boil for\n90 minutes with 4$ of gallnuts, 2 of sumac, 4 of\nlogwood, 3 of copperas, diminishing the pro-\nportion of the ware for light shades.\nMode Gray.— Boil for the same length of time\nwith 3$ of gallnuts, 1 logwood, 4 orchil, sol-\nuble iodine violet, and 1 copperas.\nOlive.— Boil as above with 50$ of fustic or 15\nextract of fustic, 5 logwood, 4 bluestone, 4\nargol, 3 orchil and 1 copperas.\nJet Black— Boil for 90 minutes with 234$ of bi-\nchrome and 2 of sulphuric acid. Lift, spread\nout and let lie till quite cold, and dye in a sec-\nond water with 40$ of logwood, 8 fustic and V/%\nbluestone. After boiling for an hour, wash\ndry.\nBlue Black.— Prepare as above with 234$ of\nbichrome and 2$ sulphuric acid. Then boil for\nthe same length of time in a second water with\n40$ logwood and 134$ bluestone. Wash and dry.\nBright blue.— Prepare as above with 3$ of\nbichrome, 2$ sulphuric acid and 2$ alum. Dye\nin a second water with 25$ logwood, and the\nsolution of 34 soluble aniline violet. Wash and\ndry.\nReddish Brown.— Boil for 90 minutes with 3$\nof bichrome and 2$ sulphuric acid. Let cool\nin the flot, and enter in a cold water made up\nof 30$ of peachwood, 5$ of fustic and 34 of aliz-\narine orchil. Raise to a boil, and keep it up\nfor halLan hour.— Teinturier Pratique.\nDarker Shade of Reseda (551b.). Prepare as\nabove and dye with 8 oz. logwood, lib. extract\nof indigo and 434 oz. orchil.— C.\nLight Reseda on Yarn .(100 lb.).— Boil 10 lb.\nalum, 3 lb. argol, 2 oz. oil of vitriol, 5 oz. ex-\ntract of indigo, 7 oz. orchil paste and 234 oz.\npicric acid, or, in place of the latter, 2 lb. fus-\ntic. Boil up cool, enter the goods and boil for\nforty-five minutes.— C.\nReseda on Wool (50 lb,). 11 Boil for seventy-\nfive minutes with lb. chromate of potash, 34\nlb. argol, 34 lb. alum. Dye in a fresh water\nwith 34 lb. logwood, 1 lb. fustic and 34 lb. cam-\nwood.— C.\nLight Salmon on Yarn (100 lb.).— Oxalic acid,\n71b.; tin crystals, 2 lb.; cochineal, 12 oz., and\nflavine, 3 oz. Boil, cool, enter and boil for\nthree-quarters of an hour. By adding more\nflavine the shade may be turned to an orange\nand to a red by more cochineal.\nSlate Braid.— One Bath.— 1001b. braid. Cleanse\nthe vat with 2 lb. alum; add 10 lb. alum, 10 lb.\nGlauber salts, lib. red tartar, 4 lb. indigo paste,\n2 lb. orchil carmine (Pickhardt Kuttroff), 1 oz.\npicric acid, 34 gal. sulphuric acid. Commence\nwith 3 lb. indigo paste, 134 lb. orchil carmine,\noz. picric acid. Enter at 180° F., give it six\nturns, then add balance of drugs, bring to boil\nand give six turns to shade, dry slowly.\nNote.— For a fresh vat, 20 lb. alum, 20 lb.\nGlauber salts and 1 gal. sulphuric acid will be\nrequired.\nSlate on Wool (100 lb.).— Boil 4 lb. logwood, 2\noz. camwood, 1 lb. fustic, 2 oz. madder, 2 oz.\nsumac, 2 oz. indigo extract.— C.\nLighter Shade of Slate (100 lb.).— Boil for fif-\nteen minutes 2 lb. logwood, 4 oz. camwood, 12\noz. fustic, 4 oz. madder, 4 oz. sumac, 2 oz. ex-\ntract of indigo. Cool, enter, work well and\nboil for one hour. Sadden as above and boil\nfor twenty minutes longer.— C.\nScarlet Braid (one bath).— 100 lb. braid Dis-\nsolve 51b. oxalic acid, 2341b. tin crystals, 634 lb.\ncochineal, 6 oz. flavine. Enter at 180 F. and\nboil for one hour, giving eight turns in that\ntime.\nNote 1. Braids ought to be always well\nscoured, warm wash to avoid dark spots.\nNote 2.— Do not use water containing lime.\nStone Color, Dark, on Wool (220 .lb.).— Boil\nwith 634 lb. each fustic and madder. 13 lb.\nsumac and 234 lb. ai gol for an hour and a half\nsadden with 34 oz. copperas and boil for three-\nquarters of an hour longer.— C.\nStone Color, Light (220 lb.).— Boil for an hour\nwith 634 lb. alum, half that weight of argol,\n1434 lb. ground logwood, 1334 lb. sumac, 334 lb.\nground fustic and 634 lb. madder. Sadden with\n19 oz. copperas, boiling for half an hour\nlonger.— C.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0190.jp2"},"189":{"fulltext":"Dyeing.\n177\nDyeing,\nViolet on Wool (55 lb.).— Dissolve 4*4 oz.\nmethyl violet of a suitable shade in water.\nAdd the solution to the beck, in which 2 lb. 3\noz. of sulphate of soda are also dissolved. Boil\nup, cool, enter the wool and dye at a brisk\nboil.— C.\nPansy on Yarn, for Fulling (54 lb.).— Make up\na water with lb. perchloride of tin and the\nsame weight of sulphuric gfcid. Add a clear\nsolution of methyl violet as required. Enter,\ndye at a boil, rinse and dry.—\nBluish Pansy on Alpaca (100 lb.).— Prepare at\na boil with 8 lb. alum, 3 lb. choride of tin, 2 lb.\noil of vitriol and 2 oz. aniline blue of a reddish\nshade, and then top with 8 oz. reddish aniline\nblue and 2 oz. magenta. C.\nPansy on Cloth (100 lb.).— Give a light blue\nground in the vat, rinse and boil for ninety\nminutes with 10 lb. alum, 4 lb. argol, 3^ lb. tin\ncrystals, 1 lb. oil vitriol.\nTop at a boil in a fresh water with 20 lb. log-\nwood, 5 lb. redwood, and the solution of 3 to 6\nlb. aniline violet.— C.\nPansy for Vicuna (10 lb.).— Enter the clean\nyarn in a boiling water with 1 lb. tannin, and\nsteep for four to five hours. Wring and steep\nfor two hours in bichloride of tin at 2J^° Tw.\nRinse, wring and dye to shade in methyl violet\nBBBB at a hand heat.— G.\nGentiana Violet on Wool (11 lb.).— Dissolve in\na water 7 oz. argol and the necessary amount\nof color, previously dissolved; boil and skim.\nThe goods are entered, and after three turns\nthe shade is level. The color is dissolved in\nwater at 140° F., and quickly raised to a boil,\nwhich is kept up for five minutes. The solution\nis then strained. One pound of color requires\n-30 lb. (3 gal.) of water.— C.\nViolet 2 B on Worsted Yarn (50 lb.).— Dissolve\n4 oz. violet 2 B (Bindschedler Busch) in\nwater at 180° F. Enter, give four to six turns\nwhile raising to 212° F., and boil to shade.— C.\nPurple on Wollen Yarn (50 lb.).— Dissolve 5 lb.\nsulphate of soda and 5 oz. Violet de Paris 350\nNB (A. Poirrier, of Paris). Cool down to 150°\nF., enter quickly, bring to a boil, and turn to\nshade.— C.\nViolet on Woolen Yarn (50 lb.)— Dissolve in\nwater 5 oz. violet No. 28 (Beid, Halliday\nSons, Huddersfleld). Enter yarn at 150° F.,\nturn briskly while raising to a boil. Let cool,\nand wash. C.\nViolet on Woolen Yarns (11 lb.).— Dye with\nmethyl violet, adding 8% oz. prepared tartar.\nThe use of this latter ingredient prevents\nsmearing.— J?.\n•Violet on Yarn (50 lb.).— Dissolve 5 lb. sul-\nphate of soda, 7 oz. acid violet (Farbwerke,\nHoechst am Main), and 1 lb. oil of vitriol. Enter\nat 15U° F., turn briskly, raise to a boil, and work\nfor three-quarters of an hour.— 0.\nViolets on Woolen Yarn (100 lb.). —The violets\nlt 5B, t 3B and KR, of Monnet Co.,\nof Geneva, are dyed by simply dissolving in\nwater at 180° F., entering, giving six or eight\nturns while raising water to a boil, and boiling\nto shade. Half a pound of each of the above\ncolors gives a full shade.— C.\nAlkali Violet on Wool (30 lb. yarn).— Dissolve\nM lb. borax and 5 oz. alkali violet (Farbwerke,\nHoechst am Main). Enter at 140° F., give four\nturns rapidly, raise to a boil, lift when dark\nenough, wash and raise in a fresh lukewarm\nwater with lb. oil of vitriol. The process is\nthe same as for Nicholson blues. C.\nDeep Dahlia on Piece Goods (100 lb.).— Make\nup a boiling water with 6 lb. alum, 134 lb. bi-\nchromate, lb. tin crystals and 1 lb. oil of\nvitriol. Work in this for half an hour, and\neither wash or leave in the beck. Then dye\nwith 50 lb. logwood, 10 lb. calliatura and 2 lb.\norchil.— C.\nVery Deep Violet on Piece Goods (100 lb.)—\nMake up a water with 1% lb. chromate, 3 lb.\nalum, y 2 lb. tin crystals, y% lb. sulphuric acid\nand lb. oxalic acid. Work in this at a boil,\nand rinse and let cool in the not and then boil\nfor an hour and a half with 40 lb. logwood, 12\nlb. calliatura and 2 lb. orchil.— C.\nFast Lilac on Wool (110 lb.).— Boil for an hour\nwith 11 lb. peach wood, W/ lb. logwood, 22 lb.\nalum and 11 lb. argol. Lift, and add 34 oz. bi-\nchloride of tin and boil for a quarter of an\nhour longer. To brighten the color, the solu-\ntion of 33^ oz. methyl violet is added.— C.\nLight Lilac on Worsted (25 lb. yarn).— Clear\nthe water, if needful, and add 5 lb. sulphate of\nsoda, 2 oz. red argol, 1 lb. sulphuric acid, u z oz.\nviolet (Farbwerke, Hoechst am Main) and 1}4\noz. each of indigo extract and orchil extract.\nLemon Yellow on Wool (218 lb.).— Boil up 83\nlb. fustic, 13 lb. 2 oz. alum, the same weight of\ntartar, 1% lb. tin crystals. Skim the beck, en-\nter, and boil the wool for one and a half hours.\nR.\nYellow (50 lb. yarn).— Dissolve in a water 5 lb.\nsulphate of soda crystals and 34 lb. Jaune S\n(A. Poirrier, of Paris). Add 2 lb. oil of vitriol.\nEnter at 180° F. and give five turns while rais-\ning to 212° F. Boil for five minutes, wash and\ndry.— C.\nOcher Yellow on Wool (220 lb.).— Boil with 53^\nlb. chromate of potash and half the weight\neach of bluestone and argol, for ninety min-\nutes. Dye in a beck make up of 34 lb. French\nextract of fustic and 334 lb. madder, boiling\nfor an hour.— C.\nAurantine Yellow (128 lb.).— Dissolve 1 lb.\naurantine, 8 lb. alum, 2 lb. tartar, 8 lb. muriate\nof tin, lb. tin crystals. Boil ten minutes.\nCool, enter, turn ten minutes and boil half\nan hour. Rinse and dry. C.\nDeep Yellow (100 lb.).— Dissolve 1 lb. auran-\ntine, 2 lb. alum, 2 lb. tartar, 8 lb. muriate of\ntin, Hs lb. tin crystals. Work as above.— C.\nLight Yellow (64 lb.).— Aurantine 34 lb., alum\n3 lb., half refined tartar 2 lb., muriate of tin,\n61b., tin crystals, 6 oz. Work as above.— C.\nYellow on Shoddy (100 lb.).— Clear the water\nwith perchloride of tin and boil 50 lb. bark for\nhalf an hour. Add y z lb. white glue, previously\ndissolved boil up and skim. Dissolve in the\nclear liquor 3 lb. oxalic acid, 3 lb. tin salt and 1\nlb. bichloride of tin. Boil the goods for an\nhour. C.\nStraw Color on Yarn (10 lb.).— Boil for forty-\nfive minutes with 6 oz. alum, 3 oz. argol, 34 lo.\nfustic and 34 lb. madder.— C.\nBerlin Yellow (50 lb. yarn).— Dissolve in a\nwater 5 lb. alum and 34 lb. Berlin yellow\n(Bindschedler Busch). Enter at 170° F., give\nfive turns while raising to a boil and turn to\nshade.— C.\nFast Yellow (50 lb.).— Make up a water with\n234 lb. sulphuric acid and 34 lb. fast yellow\n(Reid, Halliday Sons, Huddersfleld). Enter\nat 160° F. Raise to boil, turning to shade, and\nwash. -C.\nJaune d Or on Yarn (100 lb.).— Prepare water\nat 160° F., with 1 lb. Jaune d Or (Monnet Co.,\nGeneva) and 1 lb. acetic acid. Add only half\nthe color and the acid. Enter yarn, work for\nthirty minutes, lift and add remainder of color\nand acid. Re-enter, work for thirty minutes\nmore, raising the temperature to 180° F., wash\nand dry.— C.\nGolden Yellow on Worsted (25 lb.).— Add to a\nwater lb. of oil o2 vitriol, 3 lb. sulphate of\nsoda, Yz lb. alum. Boil up, skim carefully if\nneeded, add solution of 34 oz golden yellow\n(Clayton Aniline Co., Manchester), cool down\nto 160° F. and enter. Turn briskly, raise tem-\nperature and work to shade.— C.\nDark Golden Carmelite on Worsted (50 lb.).\nDissolve in a water 5 lb. sulphate of soda, 1 lb.\nalum, 1 lb. oil of vitriol, 6 oz. dark golden\ncarmelite (Clayton Aniline Co., Manchester).\nEnter yarn at 150° F., raise to a boil, and work\nto shade.— C.\nNaphthal Yellow on Worsted (30 lb. yarn).—\nBoil 5 lb. sulphate of soda, Yz lb. oil of vitriol,\noz. naphthal yellow (Baden Aniline Co.).\nEnter at 160° F., raise to a boil and turn to\nshade— C.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0191.jp2"},"190":{"fulltext":"Earache.\n178\nEffervescence.\nAventurine on Half Woolens (4 lb. 6 oz.).—\nSulphate of soda 2 lb. 3 oz., sulphate of alumina\n4 lb, 6 oz., orchil 1 pig-gin, turmeric 13 lb. 2 oz.\nDye, wash, and then pass into a catechu beck\nwith bichromate of potash and turmeric— C.\nPorcelain White on Wool (218 lb.).— Clear the\nwater with 2 lb. 3 oz. perchloride of tin at the\nheat of 100° F., add 1% oz. neutral extract of\nindigo and 2% oz. cudbear, and work the wool\nfor half an hour.— R.\nMixed Goods.— Black on Common Mixed Car-\npet Yarn for Filling.— 100 lb. yarn. Prepare 25\nlb. extract of logwood, 8 lb. blue vitriol, 81b. sal\nsoda. Boil up, enter yarn, give three turns\nslowly, take up, wash, and it is finished.\nNote 1.— The second 100 lb. requires only 151b.\nextract of logwood, 6 lb. blue vitriol, and 6 lb. sal\nsoda. 2.— The third 100 lb. requires only 10 lb.\nextract of logwood, 4 lb. blue vitriol, and 4 lb.\nsal soda, and keep it for future use, 3.— This\nis a fair black, and size may be worked with\nit.\nGreen on Mixed Garments (11 lb.).— The wool is\ndyed green by boiling for one hour with 2 lb. 3\noz. alum, 8% oz. argol, 4}^ oz. sulphuric acid, 2\nlb. 3 oz. fustic, and 6J4 oz. extract of indigo.\nIt is then entered in a beck at 190° F., with 17)4\noz. alum and the same weight of fustic. Here\nthe goods are worked for an hour, lifted, wrung\nout, and entered in a fresh beck of 2 lb. 3 oz.\nsumac. Here they are soaked for two hours,\nturning frequently, lifted, wrung well out, and\ndyed in a fresh cold beck with methyl green.\nIf the shade has to be darkened, decoction of\nlogwood is added as required. R.\nGray for Half Woolen Garments (11 lb.).— Pre-\npare for three hours with 2 lb. 12 oz.sumac,wring\nout and boil for three quarters of an hour with\nQ oz. logwood and 1 oz. fustic. Sadden in the\nsame beck with 1% oz. copperas at 200° F.—R.\nCheap Black on Mixed Cotton and Wool\nCloth.— Boil in a bath of logwood extract, 25$\nfustic extract, soda, 13%; bluestone, 8%.\nWork at 120° F. for some minutes, then raise to\nboiling, until a good black is got, after which\nenter in a new bath containing bichromate of\npotash, i%.—R.\nPansy on Shoddy (109 lb.).— Prepare with 2 lb.\n3 oz. chrome alum, 2 lb. 3 oz. sulphuric acid, and\noz. chloride of tin. Then dye to shade with\naniline violet (soluble in alcohol). R.\nGreen for Half Woolen Garments (11 lb.).\nMake up a beck with 17J4 oz. alum, 8% oz. argol,\n17J4 oz. fustic, and 3J^ oz. extract of indigo.\nBoil the goods in this for an hour, rinse, pre-\npare with 3)4 lb. sumac, wring out and top in a\nfresh cold beck with 1% oz. methyl green.— R.\nEarache, Cure for.— 1. Wet a piece of\ncotton with equal parts of chloroform and\nlaudanum, place in the ear, and cover up.\n2. Put five drops of chloroform on a little\ncotton or wool in the bowl of a clay pipe, then\nblow the vapor through the stem into the ach-\ning ear.— Med. Record.\nEarth, Slopes of.— The natural slopes,, of\nearths, with horizontal line, are as follows\nGravel (average), 40° dry sand, 38° sand, 22°\nvegetable earth, 28° compact earth, 50° shin-\ngle, 39° rubble, 45° clay, well drained, 45°\nclay, wet, 16°.\nEarthenware, to Drill.— Use a steel\ndrill, ground at the cutting end into a triangu-\nlar-based pyramid. Turn the tool rapidly, and\naid the action by the application of a solution\nof camphor in turpentine. If no such drill can\nbe obtained, make one out of an old three-\nsquare file, thus Soften it and file up until the\nedges are sharp, then temper. The extreme\ntip may advantageously be made with a greater\nangle.\nEarthenware, Glazes for. See Glazes.\nEarthenware, Varnish for. See Var-\nnishes.\nEarth Flax, Amianthus. See As-\nbestos.\nEau de Naples. See Waters.\nEau de Vie de Dantzick. See IAq-\nuors.\nEau Romaine, See Waters.\nEau Sedative. See Waters.\nEaux. See Wallers.\nEbonite a»A Vulcanite.— The only dif-\nference between these two articles is in the\ncoloring materials used. These terms are ap-\nplied to a compound of India rubber and sul-\nphur, exact ly the same as the common elastic\nbands, the only difference being in the time\nand heat required to vulcanize or harden the\ncompound. 1. Sulphur, 2 to 3 parts, is mixed\nwith caoutchouc, 5 parts, and cured for sev-\neral hours at 75° C, under a pressure of four\nto five atmospheres. Ebonite is apt to become\nporous and conductive in moist air or in sun-\nlight. It keeps best when dry and in the dark.\nHeat softens and deforms it. To prevent loss\nof insulation by oxidation of the sulphur, the\nsurface should be washed from time to time\nwith boiling water, then rinsed with distilled\nwater, and dried. The surface should be\nshellaced or paraffined, especially in moist\nclimates.\n2. Hard Good Quality.- Best Para rubber, 2\nparts sulphur, 1 part, by weight.\n3. American Ebonite.— Rubber, 12 parts; sul-\nphur, 8 parts whiting, 1 part wash, 1 part, by\nweight. Curing moulds for above lead, 2\nparts; antimony, 1 part, by weight.\n4. Soft Vulcanized India Rubber.— Para rub-\nber, 7*5 parts; sulphur, 0*75 parts; lime, 0*01\nparts whiting, 7 5 parts French chalk, T25\nparts; litharge, 1 5 parts, by weight.\nEbonizing Wood. See Staining.\nWood.\nEbony, Artificial.— 60 parts of charcoal\nobtained from seaweeds previously treated\nwith dilute sulphuric acid, and dried, and mix-\ning it with 10 parts of liquid glue, 5 of gutta\npercha, and 2% of India rubber, care having\nbeen taken to mix the two latter substances\nwith coal oil tar to render them gelatinous;\nthen 10 parts of coal tar, 5 of pulverized sul-\nphur, 2 of powdered alum, and 5 of powdered\nresin are added, and the mixture heated to 300°\nF. After having been cooled a substance is ob-\ntained which is equal in many respects to gen-\nuine ebony wood, but is far less expensive, and\ncapable of receiving a finer polish. It can only\nbe prepared on a large scale.\nEbony, Imitation. The wood is im-\nmersed for forty-eight hours in a hot saturated\nsolution of alura, and then brushed over sev-\neral times with a logwood decoction prepared\nas follows; Boil 1 part best logwood with 10\nparts of water, filter through linen and evapo-\nrate at a gentle heat until the volume is re-\nduced one half. To every quart of this add\nfrom 10 to 15 drops of a saturated solution of\nindigo, completely neutral. After applying\nthis dye to the wood, rub the latter with a\nsaturated and filtered solution of verdigris in\nhot concentrated acetic acid, and repeat the\noperation until a black of the desired intensity\nis obtained.\nEbony, to Polish. See Polishing.\nEctypography. Etching in relief.\nEdulcoration. The affusion of water on\nany substance for the purpose of removing the\nportion soluble in that liquid. EdulcOration is\nusually performed by agitating or triturating\nthe article with water, and removing the latter\nafter subsidence by decantation or filtration.\nIt is the method commonly adopted to purify\nprecipitates and other powders which are in-\nsoluble in water. The washing bottle is a most\nuseful instrument for the edulcoration of pre-\ncipitates.\nEffervescence.— The rapid escape of gas in\nsmall bubbles from a liquid.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0192.jp2"},"191":{"fulltext":"Efflorescence.\n179\nElaterite.\nEfflorescence.— When a crystallized salt\nparts with its water of crystallization by ex-\nposure to the air, and crumbles into a powder,\nit is said to effloresce. The spontaneous\nconversion of a crystalline solid into a dry pul-\nverulent form. Crystals which, in a dry at-\nmosphere, lose their water of crystallization\nand become crusted over with a mealy powder\nare said to be efflorescent.\nEgg Drink.— The following* drink for re-\nlieving sickness of stomach was introduced by\nDr. Halahan, and is very palatable and agree-\nable: Beat up one egg very well, say for\ntwenty minutes, then add fresh milk, 1 pt.;\nwater, 1 pt.; sugar, to make it palatable; boil\nand let it cool drink when cold. If it becomes\ncurds and whey it is useless.\nEgg-Nog, or Auld Man s Milk.— Se-\nparate the whites and yelks of a dozen fresh\neggs. Put the yelks into a basin and beat them\nto a smooth cream with half a pound of finely\npulverized sugar. Into this stir y% pint of\nbrandy, and the same quantity of Jamaica\nrum; mix all well together and add 3 qt. of\nmilk or cream, half a nutmeg (grated), and stir\ntogether. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff\nfroth stir lightly into them 2 or 3 oz. of the\nfinest sugar powder, add this to the mixture,\nand dust powdered cinnamon over the top.\nEgg Flip.— Beat up in a bowl y% doz. fresh\neggs add y% lb. pulverized sugar stir well to-\ngether, and pour in 1 qt. or more of boiling\nwater, about y pt. at a time, mixing well as\nyou pour it in when all is in, add two tumblers\nof best brandy and one of Jamaica rum.\nEggs, to Tell the Age of. This method is\nbased upon the decrease in the density of eggs\nas they grow old. Dissolve 2 oz. of kitchen\nsalt in a pint of water. When a fresh laid egg-\nis placed in this solution it will descend to the\nbottom of the vessel, while one that has been\nlaid on the day previous will not quite reach the\nbottom. If the egg be three days old it will\nswim in the liquid, and if it is more than three\ndays old it will float on the surface, and pro-\nject above the latter more and more in pro-\nportion as it is older.— La Nature.\nTo Pack Eggs to Keep for Winter.— 1. Dip the\neggs into a solution of 2 oz. gum arabic in a\npint of cold water, let them dry and pack in\npowdered, well burned charcoal.\n2. Packing Liquid. Lime, 1 bushel (slaked\nwith water); common salt, 2 or 3 lb.; cream of\ntartar, y lb.; water, q. s. to form a mixture\nstrong enongh to float an egg. Used to pre-\nserve eggs, which it is said it will do for two\nyears, by simply keeping them in it.\n3. In the common •liming 1 process a tight\nbarrel is half filled with cold water, into which\nis stirred slaked lime and salt in the proportion\nof about y 2 lb. each for every pail or bucket of\nwater. Some dealers use no salt, and others\nadd a small quantity of niter— *4 lb. to the half\nbarrel of pickle. Into this the eggs, which\nmust be perfectly fresh and sound, are let down\nwith a dish, when they settle to the bottom,\nsmall end down. The eggs displace the liquid,\nso that when the barrel is full of eggs it is also\nfull of the pickle. Eggs thus pickled, if kept\nin a cool place, will ordinarily keep good for\nseveral months. Long storage in this liquid,\nhowever, is apt to make the shells brittle and\nimpart a limy taste to their contents. This\nmay be in a great measure avoided by anoint-\ning the egg all over with lard before putting\nin the pickle. Eggs thus prepared are said to\nkeep perfectly for six months or more when\nstored in a cool cellar.\n4. A much better method of storing eggs is\nthe following: Having selected perfectly fresh\neggs, put them, a dozen or more at a time, into\na small willow basket, and immerse this for\nfive seconds in boiling water containing about\n5 lb. of common brown sugar per gal. of water.\nPlace the eggs immediately after on travs to\ndry. The scalding water causes the forma-\ntion of a thin skin of hard albumen next the\ninner surface of the shell, the sugar effectually\nclosing all the pores of the latter.\nThe cool eggs are then packed, small end\ndown, in an intimate mixture of one measure\nof good charcoal, finely powdered, and two\nmeasures of dry bran. Eggs thus stored have\nbeen found perfectly fresh and unaltered after\nsix months.\n5. A French authority gives the following\nMelt 4 oz. clear beeswax in a porcelain dish\nover a gentle fire and stir in 8 oz. of olive oil.\nLet the resulting solution of wax in oil cool\nsomewhat, then dip the fresh eggs one by one\ninto it so as to coat every part of the shell. A\nmomentary dip is sufficient, all excess of the\nmixture being wiped off with a cotton cloth.\nThe oil is absorbed in the shell, the wax her-\nmetically closing all the pores. It is claimed\nthat eggs thus treated and packed away in\npowdered charcoal in a cool place have been\nfound after two years as fresh and palatable as\nwhen newly laid.\n6. Pai^affine, which melts to a thin liquid at a\ntemperature below the boiling of water, and\nbas the advantage of being odorless, tasteless,\nharmless, and cheap, can be advantageously\nsubstituted for the wax and oil, and used in a\nsimilar manner.\nThus coated and put into the lime pickle the\neggs may be safely stored for many months; in\ncharcoal, under favorable circumstances, for a\nyear or more.\n7. Dry salt is frequently recommended as a\ngood preservative packing for stored eggs, but\npractical experience has shown that salt alone\nis but little better than dry bran, especially if\nstored in a damp place or exposed to humid\nair.\n8. A mixture of 8 measures of bran with 1 of\npowdered quicklime makes an excellent pack-\ning for eggs in transportation.\n9. Water glass— silicate of soda— has recently\nbeen used in Germany for rendering the shells\nof eggs non-porous. A small quantity of the\nclear sirupy solution is smeared over the entire\nsurface of the shell. On drying, a thin, hard\nglassy film remains, which serves as an ad-\nmirable protection and substitute for wax, oil,\ngums, etc. Eggs thus coated and stored in\ncharcoal powder or a mixture of charcoal and\nbran would keep a very long time.\n10. In storing eggs in charcoal the latter\nshould be fresh and perfectly dry. If the eggs\nare not stored when perfectly fresh they will\nnot keep under any circumstances. A broken\negg stored with sound ones will sometimes en-\ndanger the whole lot. In packing, the small\nend of the egg should be placed downward; if\nin charcoal or other powder they must be\npacked so that the shell of one egg does not\ntouch that of another, the interspaces being\nfilled with the powder.\nUnder all circumstances stored eggs should\nbe kept in as cool a place as possible. Frequent\nchange of temperature must also be avoided.\nElaterite, Elastic Bitumen.— A min-\neral pitch occurring in fungoid masses. It\nlooks much like India rubber, and effaces lead\npencil marks, hence it obtained the name of\nmineral caoutchouc.\nElderberry Wine. See Wines.\nElectric Machines, Amalgam for. See\nAmalgams.\nElectro-Chemical Printing Solution\n(Bain s).— Saturated solution of potassium fer-\nro-cyanide 1 vol., water 2 vols.; or, saturated\nsolution of ammonium nitrate 1 vol., water\n2 vols.\nElectrolytic Classification of Ele-\nments.— This table indicates the electric rela-\ntions of simple or elementary bodies to each","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0193.jp2"},"192":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n180\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nother, but is subject to modifications, and in-\ndeed, reversal of order, according to the nature\nof the exciting- fluid in which the pairs of ele-\nments may be immersed. In the first column\nof negative bodies each element is to be con-\nsidered negative to all below, and positive to\nall above it, and the same applies to the second\ncolumn of positive bodies. The elements are\ntherefore negative or positive only in relation\nto each other.\nElectro-Negative Elements.\nOxygen.\nIodine.\nCarbon.\nSulphur.\nPhosphorus.\nAntimony.\nSelenium.\nArsenic.\nTellurium.\nNitrogen.\nChromium.\nTitanium.\nFluorine.\nVanadium.\nSilicon.\nChlorine.\nTungsten.\nHydrogen.\nBromine.\nBoron.\nElectro-Positive Elements.\nPotassium.\nUranium.\nTin.\nSodium.\nManganese.\nBismuth.\nLithium.\nZinc.\nCopper.\nBarium.\nIron.\nSilver.\nStrontium.\nNickel.\nMercury.\nCalcium.\nCobalt.\nPalladium.\nMagnesium.\nCadmium.\nPlatinums\nAluminum.\nLead.\nGold.\nWatt\nElectro Metallurgy. Electro metal-\nlurgy has two departments, which are distin-\nguished by the preparation of the surfaces to\nbe coated.\nElectro-plating is the production of adhesive\ndeposits, and depends on the absolute clean-\nness of the metal surface coated. This will be\ntreated first.\nElectrotyping is the production of remov-\nable deposits from either non-metallic moulds\nor from metal surfaces, whose cleanness is de-\nstroyed either by black-leading or by rubbing\nwith turpentine containing a trace of wax.\nThe preparation of the objects depends (1)\nupon class of deposit required; (2) upon the\nnature of the object itself. In all cases, ordin-\nary dirt, rust, etc., must be removed, as the\ndeposit reproduces every feature of the sur-\nface, even to a finger mark.\nCleansing.— Copper, brass, zinc and the noble\nmetals are cleaned by the suitable acids which\nact on them. Such cleaning solutions may be\nprepared for different metals as follows:\nFor copper and\nbrass\nIron\nIron (cast)\nZinc\nSilver\nSul-\nWater.\nNitric.\nphuric.\n100\n50\n100\n100\n3\n8\n100\n3\n12\n100\n10\n100\n10\nHydro-\nchloric.\n2\n2\n3\nIt is best to make two such solutions,* one\nbeing reserved for a final dip, during- which a\nstrong action occurs upon the surface. As this\nbecomes weaker it can be used for the first\ncleansing, accompanied by occasional rubbing\nwith sand, etc., according to the nature of the\nobject.\nLead, tin and pewter must not be placed in\nacid, but are cleaned by aid of caustic soda.\nObjects must be carefully freed from acids if\nthey are to be transferred to silver or gold\nsolutions, but less care is necessary for objects\ncleaned in soda, nor is the same care necessary\nin transferring objects cleaned in acids to an\nacid coppering solution. In such cases the best\nplan is to dip into clean water and at once\ntransfer to the depositing cell.\nCleansing and Preparing Objects for Electro-\nplating.— The first and most important opera-\ntion in the electro-deposition of one metal upon\nanother is to effect a thorough chemical cleans-\ning of the surface of the metal upon which\nthe coating is to be deposited, for if this is not\naccomplished the deposited metal will not ad-\nhere to the surface.\nIn cleansing, different metals usually require\na somewhat different treatment.\nThe surface of most metals when clean soon\nbecomes coated with a film of oxide when ex-\nposed to the air, especially when the surface\nexposed is wet, and to avoid this it is usually\nnecessary to proceed with the plating immedi-\nately after cleansing.\nBefore proceeding to cleanse the articles they\nare usually trussed with copper wire to avoid\nthe necessity of handling them during the\noperation or afterward, until the plating is\nfinished. A very slight contact with the hand\nis often sufficient to make a second cleansing\nnecessary.\nIf the article to be plated presents a smooth\nfinished or polished surface the deposit will be\nbright. 1 If, on the contrary, the surface is\nrough or unpolished, the deposit will ordinarily\nhave a dead luster. If left too long in the acid\ndips used in cleansing, the polished surface is\napt to have its finish deadened.\nNo interval should be allowed between the\nvarious operations of cleansing.\nCleansing Copper and Copper Alloys.\nPotash, caustic lib.\nWater, soft 1 gal.\nHeat nearly to boiling in a cast iron pot pro-\nvided with a cover.\nBrush to remove any loosely adhering foreign\nmatters, truss and suspend for a time in the hot\nlye; usually a few minutes will suffice if the\narticle is not heavily lacquered. If any of its\nparts are joined with solder it should not be al-\nlowed to remain too long immersed, as the\ncaustic liquid attacks solders and their solution\nblackens copper. On removing, rinse thor-\noughly in running water.\nIf the articles are much oxidized, pickle in a\nbath composed of\nWater 1 gal.\nSulphuric acid 1 pt.\nuntil the darker portion is removed. Rinse in\nrunning water and dip in the following sol-\nution\nWater, soft 1 gal.\nCyanide of potassium, common. .8 oz.\nRemove from the bath and quickly go over\nevery part with a brush and fine pumice stone\npowder moistened with the cyanide solution.\nSome electroplaters prefer to give the articles\na preliminary brightening 1 dip in nitric acid,\nor a mixture of nitric and sulphuric acids and.\nsalt, followed by rinsing in water, but the\ncyanide, aided by the mechanical action of the\npumice and brush, does very well without it in\nmost cases. After the scoui ing dip the work\nmomentarily in the cyanide solution, rinse\nquickly in running water, and transfer im-\nmediately to the plating bath.\nWhere the article is to receive a deposit of\ngold or silver its surface is usually softened by\nslightly amalgamating it with mercury, to in-\nsure perfect adhesion of the deposited metal.\nThe amalgamating is performed by dipping\nthe article, after the cyanide scouring opera-\ntion, for a few seconds in a solution of\nMercuric nitrate.. oz.\nSulphuric acid oz.\nWater 1 gal.\nStir until the solution becomes clear before\nusing. Rinse the work quickly on coming from\nthe mercury dip, and transfer to the plating\nsolution.\nThe acid, cyanide and mercury dips maybe\nkept in glass or stoneware jars (avoid jars with\nlead glazing) provided with covers to prevent\nevaporation.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0194.jp2"},"193":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n181\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nA dead luster is imparted to articles of\ncopper or copper alloy by dipping them for a\nfew minutes in a bath composed of\nNitric acid (36°) 201b.\nSulphuric acid (66°) 10\nSalt rV t\nZinc sulphate tts\nMix the acids gradually, add the zinc salt, then\nthe salt, a little at a time (out-of-doors to avoid\nthe acid vapors), stir well together, and let it\nget cold before using. Rinse thoroughly, and\npass through the cyanide before putting in the\nplating bath.\nCleansing Cast Iron.\nCast iron is freed from grease, etc., by dip-\nping in hot alkali solution used for a similar\npurpose with copper, and after rinsing thor-\noughly is pickled in water containing abut If,\nof sulphuric acid for several hours; then rinsed\nin water and scoured with fine sharp sand or\npumice and a fiber brush. It is then rinsed and\nreturned to the acid pickle for a short time,\nrinsed again and put into the plating bath di-\nrectly. If more than If, of acid is used in the\npickle the time of immersion must be short-\nened, otherwise the iron will be deeply cor-\nroded, and the carbon which the metal contains,\nand which is not affected by the acid, will not\nyield without a great deal of labor to the sand\nand brush.\nCast iron does not gild or silver well by direct\ndeposit. Copper or bronze deposits are better,\nthough not perfect; but if the iron is tinned\nthe coat is adherent and will readily receive\nthe other metals.\nCleansing Wrought Iron.\nThe cleansing of wrought iron, if much ox-\nidized, is effected in the same manner as cast\niron; but it will bear a stronger pickle and a\nlonger exposure. Whitened, filed, or polished\niron may be treated like steel.\nCleansing Steel.\nDip in the caustic lye used for copper, etc.,\nrinse thoroughly, scour with pumice powder\nmoistened, rinse and pass through the follow-\ning dip:\nWater 1 gal.\nHydrochloric acid 4 lb.\nRinse quickly (but thoroughly) and plunge in\nthe bath.\nClean wrought iron and steel gild well with-\nout an intermediary coating in hot electro gild-\ning baths. It is difficult to obtain an adherent\ncoating of silver on these metals without inter-\nposing an intermediate coating of copper or\nbrass, which renders the further operation of\nsilver plating easy.\nCleansing Zinc, Tin and Lead.\nZinc is cleansed by dipping for a few moments\nonly (as the alkali quickly attacks the metal) in\nthe hot potash lye, rinsing and dipping into\nwater containing about lOf, of sulphuric acid\nfor a few minutes. Rinse in plenty of hot\nwater, and, if necessary, scour with pumice\nstone powder and a stiff brush, moistened with\na weak cyanide solution or scratch brush. This\nlast operation is especially useful when parts\nhave been united with tin solder.\nTin, lead and the alloys of these metals are\nmore difficult to cleanse perfectly than zinc or\niron. Scour rapidly with the hot potash and\nbrush, rinse quickly and brush, or dress with a\npiece of soft clean wood. It is very difficult to\nobtain a satisfactory deposit of gold or silver\ndirectly upon these metals or their alloys. The\nresults are much better if a coating of pure\ncopper is interposed.\nScratch Brushing.\nThe scratch brush is often resorted to to re-\nmove the dead luster on or to impart a smooth\nsurface to an object. They are usually made of\nbrass or steel wire, and of a variety of shapes\nto suit the object. Some of the forms are shown\nin the annexed cut.\nThe wheel brushes are used on the lathe, the\nobjects being manipulated in contact with the\nrapidly revolving brush. The brush is usually\nkept moistened by a small stream of water\nwhile in use.\nDipping Acid.— This name is given to a mix-\nture which is frequently used for imparting a\nbright surface to brass work. When required\nfor dipping brass work preparatory to nickel-\nplating it is commonly composed of Sulphuric\nacid, 4 lb. nitric acid, 2 lb. water, 2 qt. In\nmaking the above mixture the nitric acid is first\nadded to the water, and the sulphuric acid (or-\ndinary oil of vitriol) is then to be gradually\npoured in, and the mixture stirred with a glass\nrod. When cold it is ready for use. The mix-\nture should be kept in a stoneware vessel,\nwhich should be covered with a sheet of stout\nglass. The dipping should always be conducted\neither in an outer yard or near a fireplace, so\nthat the fumes may escape, as they are exceed-\ningly irritating to the lungs when inhaled. The\ninstant the articles are removed from the dip-\nping bath, they should be plunged in a vessel of\nwater.\nPickling Bath.— Cast iron before being nick-\neled requires to be placed in a cold acid solution\nor pickle to dissolve or loosen the oxide\nfrom its surface. The pickle may be prepared\nin a wooden tub or tank from either of the fol-\nlowing formula? Sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol),\nVz lb. water, 1 gal. Cast iron work immersed\nin this bath for twenty minutes to half hour\nwill generally have its coating of oxide suffi-\nciently loosened to be easily removed by means\nof a stiff brush, sand and water. When it is de-\nsired that the articles should come out of the\nbath bright instead of the dull black color\nwhich they present when pickled in the plain\nsulphuric acid bath the following formula may\nbe adopted Sulphuric acid, 1 lb. water. 1 gal.\nDissolve in the above 2 oz. of zinc, which may\nconveniently be applied in its granulated form.\nWhen dissolved add y% lb. of nitric acid and mix\nwell.\nThe greatest care should be used in cleansing\nor pickling before nickeling. The fine iron\nwork which is made at Wernigerode and other\nplaces in the Hartz Mountains, is believed to be\ncleansed in this manner. Work of this class is\ninexpensive and is very artistic.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0195.jp2"},"194":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n182\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nDeposition Jnj Simple Immersion, Tabular Examples of.\nSolution.\nAntim. terchloride\nBismuth chloride.\nCopper sulphate.\nCopper nitrate\nCopper chloride\nCopper dichloride.\nGold terchloride\nGold double cyanide\nMercury nitrate...\nMercurous salts...\nPlatinum chloride.\nLead nitrate acetate\nSilver nitrate\nSil v alcoholic nitrate\nSilv. double cyanide\nTin chloride\nZinc salts\nd. Deposition.\na\no\na\n5\n6\nB\nu\n+3\na\nw\ns\nm\n02\nc3\nu\na\no\n-p\n■a\nO\nQ\no\no\ns\no\no\nS\nw\n3\na\no\nO\nd\no\nh\na\na\n3\na\noS\nPh\nCO\ns\na\neg\n3\nxrx\nEH\nn\nd\nd\no\no\no\nn\nd\no\nd\nn\no\nO\no\nn\nn\nd\nn\nn\nn\no\nn\nn\nn\nd\nd\nn\no\nO\no\no\no\nd\nn\no\nn\no\nn\nn\no\nd\nd\nn\no\no\nn\nn\nd\nn\no\nn\no\nn\nn\no\nd\nd\nn\no\no\no\nn\nn\nd\nn\no\nd\no\no\no\nn\nn\no\nd\nd\no\no\no\no\nn\nn\nd\nn\no\nn\no\no\no\nn\nn\no\nn\nn\nn\no\no\no\nn\nn\nn\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nn\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nn\no\nn\nd\no\no\nd\nn\nd\nn\nn\nn\no\nn\nn\nn\nd\no\nd\no\nd\no\nd\nn\no\nd\nd\nn\no\no\no\no\nn\no\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\no\nd\no\no\nd\nd\no\no\no\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nn\nd\nd\nd\nn\nd\nd\nd\nd\nn\nn\nn\no\no\nn\nn\nn\nn\nn\nn\no\no\nn\nn\nn\nd\nd\nd\nd\no\no\nd\nn\nd\nd\nD\nn\no\nd\no\nd\nn\nD\nd\no\nd\nd\no\nd\no\nd\nn\no\no\no\no\no\nd\nn\no\nn\nd\no\nD\nn\nd\nn\nD\nn\no\no\no\nn\nn\nn\nn\nn\nn\no\no\nn\nn\nn\nn\nd\nn\no\no\no\nn\nn\nn\nn\no\nn\nn\no\nn\nn\nn\nn\nn\nn\no\no\nn\nn\nn\n3\nn. No deposition.\nReferences.\no. Not observed,\nd. Quickly deposited.\nAluminum.— 1. Aluminum may be deposited\non copper from a dilute solution of the double\nchloride of aluminum and ammonia.\n2. Aluminum is one of the most difficult and\nuncertain of metals to deposit electrolytically.\nThe following- recipe is given by Herman Rein-\nbold, who states that it furnishes excellent re-\nsults: Fifty parts by weight of alum are dis-\nsolved in 300 of water and to this is added 10\nparts of aluminum chloride. The solution\nis heated by 200° F., and when cold 39 parts of\ncyanide of potassium are added. A feeble cur-\nrent should be used.\n3. Dissolve in distilled water the required\nquantity of aluminum, either the sulphate,\nmuriate, nitrate, acetate or cyanide. Concen-\ntrate this solution to 20° Baume. Use 3 pairs\nBunsen s zinco-carbon cells, connected for in-\ntensity. Attach an anode of aluminum to the\nnegative wire. Acidulate the solution slightly\nwith the appropriate acid heated to 140° F.\nKeep the solution at this temperature during\nthe operation.\nAntimony, Deposition of. The galvanic de-\nposition of antimony having been specially\nstudied by Mr. Gore, we will borrow from him\nthe description of the processes employed.\nAntimony may be deposited by simple im-\nmersion and by means of an electric* current\nin the latter case the metal may not only be\nobtained in a state of loose black powder, but\nalso in two distinctly different coherent regu-\nline conditions, viz., as a very brittle metal\nof a gray slate color and hard crystalline struc-\nture and also in a highly lustrous steel-black\ndeposit of amorphous structure.\nThe solution used for obtaining the pure\ngray metal is composed of\nDistilled water 350 grm.\nTartar emetic 30\nTartaric acid 30\nPure hydrochloric acid 45\nIt is not a good conductor and should be used\nwith a current of about 1 volt, so as to deposit\nabout 1 millimeter per week.\nFor obtaining a bright shining deposit the\nfollowing solution can be used:\nSulphate of antimony 500 grm.\nPotassic carbonate 1 kilo.\nWater 8 liters.\nBismuth may be deposited from a slightly\nacid solution of the double chloride of bismuth\nand ammonia.\nBrassing Solutions, De Salzede s. Processes.\n1. Cyanide of potassium, 12 parts carbonate\nof potassium, 610 parts; sulphate of zinc, 48\nparts chloride of copper, 25 parts nitrate of\nammonia, 305 pa*rts; water, 5,000 parts. The\ncyanide is to be dissolved in 120 parts of the\nwater, and the carbonate of potash, sulphate of\nzinc, and chloride of copper, are to be dissolved\nin the remainder of the water, the temperature\nof which is to be raised to about 150° F. When\nthe salts are dissolved, the nitrate of ammonia\nis to be added, and the mixture well stirred\nuntil the latter is all dissolved. The solution\nshould be allowed to stand for several days\nbefore using, and the clear liquor separated\nfrom any sediment that may have deposited at\nthe bottom of the vessel.\n2. Cyanide of potassium, 50 parts carbonate\nof potassium, 500 parts; sulphate of zinc, 35\nparts; chloride of copper, 15 parts; water, 5,000\nparts. This solution is to be made up in the\nsame way as No. 1.\n3. Bronzing Solution. This solution is the\nsame as No. 1, except that 25 parts chloride of\ntin are substituted for the sulphate of zinc.\n4. Bronzing Solution. This is the same as No.\n2, with the exception that 12 parts chloride of\ntin are substituted for the sulphate of zinc.\nThis solution is worked warm, that is, at about\n97° F.\nElectro Deposition of Brass.— 5-17. Brass has\nbeen deposited from a great variety of brass-\ning solutions, as will be seen by reference to the\nannexed table. Among the first attempts to\ndeposit brass, may be mentioned that of M. De\nRuolz in 1841, who employed a mixed solution\nof the double cyanides of copper, zinc, and\npotassium. Cyanide of potassium forms an\nimportant ingredient in the majority of brass-\ning solutions, but ammonia in some form is also\nnecessary to keep the solutions in working\norder.\nThe following general conditions are to be\nobserved in making up the solutions according\nto the proportions given in the foregoing\ntable. Fluid ounces of liquids are intended and\nounces avoirdupois for the solids. When potas-\nsium carbonate (carbonate of potash) is to be\nused, the copper and zinc salts are first dis-\nsolved in water and then precipitated as car-\nbonates from this solution by adding a portion\nof the potassium carbonate. Where the sign\nq. s. is given in the foregoing. table, a sufficient\nquantity of the ammonia or cyanide must be","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0196.jp2"},"195":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy,\n183\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nTable of Brassing Solutions.\n1.\n2.\n3.\n4.\n5. 6.\n7.\n8.\n9.\n10.\n11.\n12.\n1280\n5\n5000\n3200\n5000\n5000\n800\n160\n160\n160\n250\n1000\n160\n160\n2\n10\n16\n25\n15\n2\n2\n1\n25\n4\n16\n1\n2\n1\n.Zinc sulphate.\n10\n20\n32\n48\nas\n8\n30\n5\n160\nPotassium carbonate\n160\n24\n400\n610\n12\n500\n50\nq. S.\nI\nPotassium cyanide\n8\n72\n50\nq. S.\n15\n16\n18\nq.s.\nAmmonia liquid\nq. s.\nAmmoniate carbonate.\n16\nAmmonia nitrate\n200\n305\nSoda carbonate.\n200\n50\n4\n4\n1/20\n45\nWz\nadded to produce the desired effect, ammonia\nbeing- generally employed to dissolve the pre-\ncipitates, forming a deep blue liquid, and cyan-\nide being used until the blue color has all dis-\nappeared. Both are employed as solvents to\nthe anodes, which will not freely dissolve un-\nless one or both are present in the solution.\nEven when a brassing solution is made up\nwithout the use of cyanide and ammonia, it is\nnecessary to add them afterward to keep the\nsolutions in working order, as the ammonia\nalone does not freely dissolve the copper of the\nanode, and cyanide alone does not dissolve the\nzinc oxide formed on the anode. The follow-\ning details apply to each numbered solution in\nthe foregoing table.\n1. Dissolve all the salts separately in portions\nof the water add the ammonia in equal parts\nto the solutions of the copper and zinc salt\nwith stirring; mix the copper and zinc solu-\ntions together, then add the caustic potash\nsolution and lastly the cyanide solution; stir\nwell at frequent intervals during the next\ntwelve hours, then allow the solution to rest a\nshort time before working it.\n2. Dissolve all the salts separately; pour\nenough potash solution into the solutions of\ncopper and zinc to precipitate all the metal\nadd ammonia until the precipitate has been\ndissolved decolorize with the cyanide, then\nadd remainder of potash and water.\n3. Dissolve all separately; mix copper, zinc\nand potash solutions, then add the nitrate of\nammouia.\n4. Proceed in a similar manner as for No. 3\nsolution.\n5. Proceed in a similar manner as for No. 3\nsolution.\n6. Dissolve all the salts add the cyanide so-\nlution to the others with stirring;.\n8. Dissolve all the salts in distilled water,\nmix together and add 2 oz. of sal ammoniac.\n9. Dissolve all the salts separately, then mix\ntogether\n10. Dissolve the copper and zinc salts and\nmix the solutions; add a solution of 100 parts\nof the carbonate of soda and stir well together\nwhen the precipitate has subsided, pour off the\nclear liquor, wash the precipitate, add the re-\nmainder of the carbonate of soda together\nwith the bisulphite of soda previously dis-\nsolved in water, then add enough cyanide to\ndissolve the precipitate.\n11. Dissolve the zinc and copper salts in\nwater, then add the other ingredients. Dissolve\nthe arsenious acid in the hot cyanide solution\nbefore adding it to the other solutions.\n12. Dissolve the copper and zinc salts in 1 gal.\nof water and precipitate them as carbonates\nwith 30 oz. of carbonate of soda drain off all\noz.\nthe liquid, wash the precipitate, add the car-\nbonate and bisulphite of soda, then stir in\nenough cyanide to make a clear solution.\n18. The Brass Haths. Where the ordinary\ncheap commercial cyanide is employed, the fol-\nlowing answers very well\nSulphate of copper 4 oz.\nSulphate of zinc 4 to 5 oz.\nWater 1 gal.\nDissolve and precipitate with 30 oz. carbon-\nate of soda; allow to settle, decant the clear\nliquid, and wash the precipitate several times\nwith fresh water— after as many settlings.\nAdd to the washed precipitates\nCarbonate of soda 15 oz.\nBisulphite of soda 7Hj oz.\nWater 1 gal.\nStir to effect solution of these last two, then\nstir in ordinary cyanide of potassium until the\nliquid becomes clear and colorless. Filter if\nmuch iron or iron oxide (derived from impure\nzinc salt and cyanide) remains suspended in\nthe liquid. An additional oz. or so of the\ncyanide improves the conductivity of the solu-\ntion.\n19. Cold Brass Bath for all Metals.\nCarbonate of copper (recently\nprepared) j\nCarbonate of zinc 2\nCarbonate of soda 4\nBisulphite of soda 4\nCyanide of potassium (pure) 4\nArsenious acid g 1\nWater 1 gal.\nFilter if necessary.\nThe arsenious acid is added to brighten the\ndeposit— an excess is apt to give the metal a\ngrayish white color.\n20. Management of the Bath.\nThe losses of the bath are 1 to be repaired by\nthe addition of copper and zinc salts (and arse-\nnious acid) dissolved in fresh cyanide and\nwater.\nThe operator determines the requirements\nfrom the rapidity of the deposit, its condition,\ncolor, etc.\nThe difficulty in brass electroplating, espe-\ncially with small baths, is in keeping the uni-\nformity of the color of the deposit, as the elec-\ntric current, having to decompose two salts,\neach offering a different resistance, must, ac-\ncording to its intensity, vary the color and\ncomposition of the deposit. A feeble current\nprincipally decomposes the copper salt and re-\nsults in a red deposit; while too great intensity\nin the current decomposes the zinc salt too\nrapidly and the deposit is a white or bluish","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0197.jp2"},"196":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n184\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nwhite alloy. If the deposit has an earthy or\nocherous appearance, or if the liquid is blue or\ngreenish, the solution is deficient in cyanide.\nWhen in proper working order the liquor is\ncolorless. If the coating becomes dull and un-\nequal, a slight addition of arsenious acid will\nusually improve it.\nIf the deposit is too red, use more battery\npower or add more zinc salt; if too white, de-\ncrease the current or add more copper salt.\nThe specific gravity of the bath may vary from\n5° to 12° Baume; when it exceeds this latter\ngravity it should be diluted with fresh water\nto decrease the electric resistance.\nIf the brass deposit is irregular, remove the\narticles^f rom the bath, rinse, scratch-brush, and\nput again into the bath until the color and\nthickness of the deposit are satisfactory.\nScratch-brush again, and, if necessary, rinse\nin hot water, dry in warm white wood sawdust,\nand put in the stove room. The last three\noperations are indispensable for hollow pieces.\nIn the disposition of the brass plating bath\nit is always necessary to have all the articles\nsuspended at about equal distances from the\nanodes.\nThe bath may be subdivided by several\nanodes, forming partitions, so that each loaded\nrod is between two anodes.\nThe anodes should always be removed when\nthe bath is not in use.\nIn order that the brass electroplating of zinc\nor copper may be lasting the deposit must not\nbe too thin, and must be scratch-brushed,\nwashed in lime water, and dried in the stove\nroom.\nGenerally ten to twenty-five minutes expos-\nure in the bath suffices in ordinary practice to\nthrow on a good coating. Cast and wrought\niron, lead and its alloys require a bath richer\nin the metals than when brass plating zinc or\nits alloys. The battery power should also be\ngreater. For lead the bath works better warm\n(at about 90° F.). When once placed in the\nbrass bath articles should not be moved about,\nas there is a tendency under such circumstances\nto the formation of a red deposit.\nIn brass plating wire the hot bath is usually\nemployed. As before mentioned, the vessel\ncontaining the bath usually consists in an\noblong open iron boiler, lined with sheet brass\nanodes, and heated by fire, steam, or hot water.\nA stout copper or brass rod in the direction of\nthe length of the boiler rests upon the edges,\nfrom contact with which it is insulated by\npieces of rubber tubing. The rod is connected\nwith the zinc pole of the battery. The binding\nwires are removed from the coil, the wires\nloosened, and the ends bent together into a\nloop. The wire is then dipped into a pickle of\ndilute sulphuric acid, and hung upon, a stout\nround wooden peg fastened in the wall, so that\nthe coil may be made to rotate easily. After a\nscrubbing with wet sharp sand and a hard\nbrush the coil is given a primary coating of\ncopper. It is then suspended to the horizontal\nrod, where only a part of the coil at a time\ndips into the solution and receives the deposit.\nThe coil is then turned now and then one-half\nor one-fourth of its circumference. By dipping\nthe coil entirely into the liquid the operation is\nnot so successful.\nThe wires are washed, dried in sawdust, and\nthen in the stove room, and lastly passed\nthrough a draw plate to give them the fine\npolish of true brass wires.\nThe temperature at which the hot bath is\ncommonly used varies between 130° and 140° F.\n21. Sulphate of copper, 4 oz. sulphate of\nzinc, 4 to 5 oz. water, 1 gal. Dissolve and pre-\ncipitate with 30 oz. of carbonate of soda allow\nto settle, pour off the clear liquid and wash the\nprecipitate several times in fresh water. Add\nto the washed precipitate carbonate of soda, 15\noz. bisulphite of soda, 1}4 oz. water, 1 gal.\nDissolve the above salts in the water, assisting\nthe solution by constant stirring then stir in\nordinary cyanide of potassium until the liquid\nbecomes clear and colorless. Filter the solu-\ntion, and to improve the conductivity, an ad-\nditional Yo, oz. of cyanide may be given.\n22. Russell Woolrich s Process.— A solution\nis made of the following Acetate of copper, 10\nlb.; acetate of zinc, 1 lb. acetate of potassium,\n10 lb.; water, 5 gal. The salts are to be dissolved\nin the water, and as much of a solution of\ncyanide added as will first precipitate the\nmetals and afterward redissolve the precipi-\ntate. An excess of cyanide is then to be added\nand the solution set aside to settle as before.\nA brass anode or one of zinc and another of\ncopper may be used.\n23. Wood s process consists in making a solu-\ntion as follows Cyanide of potassium (troy\nweight), 1 lb. cyanide of copper 2 oz. cyanide\nof zinc, 1 oz. distilled water, 1 gal. When the\ningredients are dissolved add 2 oz. sal-am-\nmoniac. For coating smooth articles, it is\nrecommended to raise the temperature of the\nsolution to 160° F., using a strong current.\n24. Morris Johnson s Process.— A solution\nis made by dissolving in 1 gal. of water cyanide\nof potassium, 1 lb.; carbonate of ammonia, 1\nlb. cyanide of copper, 2 oz.; cyanide of zinc, 1\noz. The solution is to be worked at a tempera-\nture of 150° F., with a large brass anode and a\nstrong current.\n^Bronze Baths.— 1. Potassic cyanide,50 parts; po-\ntassic carbonate, 500 parts; tin chloride, 12 parts;\ncupric chloride, ]5 parts; water, 5,000 parts.\nThis bath is used at a temperature not exceed-\ning 36° C.\n2. Bronzing Electro Brassed Work, Green\nBronze.— Mix into a paste with water the fol-\nlowing substances: Chromate of lead (chrome\nyellow), 2 oz.; Prussian blue, 2 oz.; plumbago,\ny% lb.; sienna powder, J4 lb.; lac carmine, J4 lb.\nWhen applying the above composition a small\nquantity of sulphide of ammonium or chloride\nof platinum solution may be added.\n3. Solutions for Depositing Brass or Bronze;\nDr. Heeren s Process.— A brassing solution\nmay be prepared by employing a large excess\nof zinc to a very small proportion of copper as\nfollows: Sulphate of copper, 1 part; sulphate\nof zinc 8 parts; cyanide of potassium, 18 parts.\nThe ingredients are to be dissolved in separate\nportions of warm water. The copper and zinc\nsolutions are to be mixed and the cyanide so-\nlution then added, when 250 parts of -distilled\nwater are to be added and the mixture well\nstirred. The bath is to be used at the boiling\ntemperature with two Bunsen cells. By this\nprocess, it is said that very rapid deposits of\nbrass have been obtained upon articles of cop-\nper, zinc, Britannia metal, etc.\n4. French Method of Bronzing Electro-brassed\nZinc Work; Steel Bronze.— This is obtained by\nmoistening the articles with a dilute solution\nof chloride of platinum and slightly heating\nthem. Since this bronze is liable to scale off\nwith friction, it should not be applied in suc-\ncessive doses, but the solution used should be\nof such a strength that the desired effect may\nbe obtained if possible by a single application.\nCopper bronze, that is electro-brass with an ex-\ncess of copper, may be darkened by dipping it\ninto a warm and weak solution of chloride of\nantimony (butter of antimony) in hydrochloric\nacid. Sometimes the color will be violet in-\nstead of black.\n5 .French Method of Bronzing Electro-brassed\nZinc Work; Green or Antique Bronze.— Dis-\nsolve in 100 parts of acetic acid or in 200 parts\nof good vinegar, 30 parts of carbonate of am-\nmonia or sal-ammoniac, and 10 parts each of\ncommon salt, cream of tartar and acetate of\ncopper and add a little water. Mix well and\nsmear the object with it, and allow it to dry at\nthe ordinary temperature, from twenty- four\nto forty -eight hours. At the end of that time\nthe article will be found to be entirely covered\nwith verdigris, which presents various tints. It\nis then to be brushed^ but more especially the","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0198.jp2"},"197":{"fulltext":"Elect ro-^Ietallurgy.\n185\nElectro-ITIetalliirgy.\nprominent parts, with a waxed brush, that is a\nbrush passed over a lump of yellow beeswax.\nThe relief parts may then be set oft with\nhematite, chrome yellow, or other suitable\ncolors. Light touches with ammonia impart a\nblue shade to the green parts; carbonate of\nammonia deepens the color.\nCadmium has been electro deposited from a\nsolution of the double cyanide of cadmium and\npotassium.\nCobal t, to Electroplate Metals icitft.—l. The for-\nmulae for nickel plating may be used for cobalt,\nby substituting cobalt salts for nickel, where\nthese are mentioned.\n2. Cobalt may be electro deposited from an\nalkaline solution of the double sulphate of co-\nbalt and ammonia.\nCopper, Alkaline Copper Solution.— 1. The best\nalkaline copper solution is that introduced by\nMr. A. Watt, and subsequently modified by Mr.\nJ. T. Sprague. Dissolve 8 oz. of copper sul-\nphate in 1 qt. hot rain water and set aside to\ncool. When cool, add liquid ammonia, while\nstirring Avith a stick or glass rod. At first a\ngreen precipitate will fall, and then this will\ndissolve on adding more ammonia, until the\nwhole solution assumes a lovely blue tint. Dil-\nute this with an equal bulk of cold rain water,\nand add to it enough solution of potassium\ncyanide, while stirring, to destroy the fine\nblue color of the ammonia sulphate and give the\ncolor of old ale to the solution. Set this aside\nfor a few hours, then pass it through a calico\nfilter and make it up to a gallon of solution\nwith rain water. This solution may be worked\ncold, but the rate of deposition is increased\nand the deposited copper of improved quality\nwhen the solution is heated to a temperature of\nfrom 110° to 130° F.\n2. Electro-coppering Flowers, Insects, etc.—\nTo render non-metallic substances conductive\n(Parkes).\na. A mixture is made from the following in-\ngredients Wax or tallow, 1 oz. India rubber,\n1 drm. asphalt, 1 oz. spirit of turpentine,\nV/% fl. oz. The India rubber and asphalt are to\nbe dissolved in the turpentine, the wax is then\nto be melted, and the former added to it and\nincorporated by stirring. To this is added 1 oz.\nof a solution of phosphorous in bisulphide of\ncarbon in the proportion of 1 part of the\nformer to 15 parts of the latter. The articles\nbeing attached to a wire are dipped in this\nmixture they are next dipped in a weak solu-\ntion of nitrate of silver, and when the black\nappearance of the silver is fully developed the\narticle is washed in water it is afterward\ndipped in a weak solution of chloride of gold\nand again washed. Being now coated with a\nfilm of gold, it is ready for immersion in the\ncopper bath.\nb. Wax and deer s fat, of each J4 lb. Melt to-\ngether and add phosphorous 10 grs., dissolved\nin bisulphide of carbon, 150 grs. The wax\nmixture must be allowed to become nearly\ncool, when the phosphorous solution is to be\nadded very carefully through a tube dipping\nunder the surface of the mixture. Stir thor-\noughly. Moulds prepared from this composition\nare rendered conductive by being first dipped\nin a solution of nitrate of silver, then riused,\nand afterward dipped in a weak solution of\nchloride of gold, and again washed, when they\nare ready for the coppering solution.\n3. To Color Copper andKickel Plated Objects.\n—The Journatdes Applications Elcctriquc* says\nthat eleven different colors may be communi-\ncated to well cleaned copper and eight to nickel\nplated objects, by means of the following bath:\nAcetate of lead 300 grn.\nHyposulphite of soda 600 grn.\nWater 1 qt.\nAfter the salts are dissolved, the solution is\nheated to ebullition, and the metal isafterward\nimmersed therein. At first a gray color is ob-\ntained, and this, on the immersions being con-\ntinued, passes to violet, and successively to\nmaroon, red, etc., and finally to blue, which is\nthe last color.\nAs the substances that enter into the compo-\nsition of the solution cost but a few cents, the\nprocess is a cheap one. It is especially appli-\ncable in the manufacture of buttons.\n4. Water 1000 parts.\nAcetate of copper (crystallized) 20 parts.\nCarbonate of soda 20 parts.\nBisulphite of soda 20 parts.\nCyanide of potassium (pure).. 20 parts.\nFirst mix the acetate of copper with just\nenough water [to make a paste, then add the\ncarbonate of soda and 200 parts water; after\nstirring add the bisulphite of soda and 200 parts\nwater, and finally the rest of the water and the\ncyanide of potassium. If the liquid appears\nblue, add enough cyanide to decolorize it.\n5. Copper Deposits.— Where it is intended to\nsimply coat Or plate another metal or alloy, the\nelectro deposit of copper is usually obtained by\nthe decomposition of a double salt, such as the\ncyanide of copper and potassium. This process\nis adapted to most metals, and affords a fine\nuniform deposit. The following is a good bath\nof this description\nWater (soft) I gal.\nAcetate of copper (cryst.) 3^ oz.\nCarbonate of soda (cryst.) d]4 oz.\nBisulphite of soda 3 oz.\nCyanide of potassium (pure) 1)4. oz.\nMoisten the copper salt with water to form a\npaste (otherwise it is apt to float on the liquid\nstir in next the carbonate of soda with a little\nmore water, then the bisulphite, and finally the\ncyanide with the rest of the water. When solu-\ntion is complete the liquid should be colorless.\nIf not, add cyanide until it is.\nThe bath may be employed hot or cold, and\nrequires a moderately strong circuit of elec-\ntricity. A copper plate forms the anode, and it\nshould expose surface enough to supply the loss\nof copper— at least a surface equal to that of\nthe Avork. It must be removed when the bath\nis not in use.\nIf the liquid becomes colored, more cyanide\nmnst be added.\nLarge pieces are generally kept hanging\nmotionless in the bath while the plating is in\nprogress; small articles are moA^ed about as\nmuch as possible, especially if the bath is\nAvarm.\nThe formula for the bath giA r en aboAe re-\nquires pure cyanide of potassium, and where\nthe commercial article, which is often \\-ery\nimpure, is used instead, considerable allowance\nmust be made. The following formula? require\na cyanide containing 70 to ~tb% (a good average)\nof pure potassium cyanide.\n6. Cold Bath for Iron and Steel.—\nAcetate of copper 3 oz.\nCarbonate of soda 6i oz.\nBisulphite of soda 3£ oz.\nCyanide of potassium 3£ oz.\nWater 1 gal.\nAqua ammonia 2£ fl. oz.\nPrepare as before.\n7. Warm Bath.\nAcetate of copper 3^ oz.\nCarbonate of soda 3£ 4\nBisulphite of soda 1£ k\nCyanide of potassium 4£\nWater 1 gal.\nAqua ammonia If fl. oz.\n8. Hot or Cold Bath for Tin, Cast Iron, or\nLarge Zinc Pieces.\nAcetate of copper 12}4 oz.\nBisulphite of soda 10\nCyanide of potassium 18\nWater 5% gal.\nAmmonia (aqua) 7 fl. oz.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0199.jp2"},"198":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n186\nElectro-Metallurgy.\n9. For small articles of zinc, which are cop-\npered in a perforated ladle and in nearly boiling-\nbaths\nAcetate of copper 16 oz.\nBisulphite of soda 3J^\nCyanide of potassium 25\nAqua ammonia 5*^\nWater .4 to 5J^ gal.\nIn the preparation of these baths the salts\nare all dissolved together, except the copper\nacetate and ammonia, which are added after\ndissolving together in a small quantity of the\nwater.\nThe deep blue color of the ammonio-copper\nsolution should entirely disappear on mixing-\nit with the other solution; otherwise it becomes\nnecessary to add more cyanide.\nThe cold bath is put into well joined tanks of\noak or fir wood, coated inside with guttapercha\nor asphaltum (genuine). The vertical sides are\nalso covered with sheets of copper, all connect-\ned with the last carbon or copper of the bat-\ntery by a stout copper wire with well cleaned\nends, the other pole of the battery being in\nsimilar connection with a stout brass rod ex-\ntending the length of the tank (without any\npoint of contact with the anodes), and from\nwhich the work is suspended by hooks or\ntrusses in the bath.\nWith a thin deposit the coating is sufficiently\nbright to be considered finished after being-\nrinsed and dried. But if the operation is more\nprotracted the deposit has a dead luster on ac-\ncount of its thickness, and if a bright luster is\ndesired it is necessary to use the scratch brush.\nThe hot baths are usually put into stoneware\nvessels heated by a water or steam bath, or into\nan enameled cast iron kettle placed directly\nover a fire. The vessels are lined inside with\ncopper, the edges of the vessels being varnished,\nor support a wooden ring upon which rests a\nbrass circle connected with the zinc pole of the\nbattei y- The objects to be electroplated are\nsuspended from this ring.\nThe hot process is more rapid than the cold,\nand is especially adapted to those articles which\nare difficult to cleanse. The articles are kept in\ncontinual agitation, which permits of the em-\nployment of a strong current of electricity.\nSmall articles of zinc are placed in a perforated\nstoneware or enameled ladle, at the bottom of\nwhich is attached a copper wire which is wound\nup around the handle and connected with the\nzinc pole of the battery. It is sufficient that one\nof the small articles touches the wire for all to be\naffected by the current, as they are in contact\nwith each other. The ladle must be continually\nagitated, so as to change the points of contact\nof the objects. What has been said in regard to\nstrength of battery, in the article on electro\nbrass plating, will apply here.\n10. Copper Deposits by Dipping.\nThis is seldom practiced except upon iron, as\ndeposits thus obtained are generally wanting in\nlasting- qualities, since, from the thinness of the\ncoating, the iron is but imperfectly protected\nfrom atmospheric influences. If the iron is\ndipped in a solution of—\nSulphate of copper 3J^ oz.\nSulphuric acid W%\nWater 1 to 2 gal.\nit becomes covered with a coating of pure cop-\nper, having a certain adhesion; but should it\nremain there a few minutes, the deposit be-\ncomes thick and muddy, and does not stand any\nrubbing. Small articles, such as pins, hooks\nand nails, are thus coppered by tumbling them\nfor a few moments in sand, bran, or sawdust\nimpregnated with the above solution, diluted\nwith three or four volumes of water.\nGold Deposits.— In the practice of electroplat-\ning with gold the bath employed is usually\nheated, as the deposits obtained in such a bath\nare more homogeneous, tenacious and durable,\nand of a better color, besides which recom-\nmendation a greater quantity of the metal may\nbe deposited satisfactorily from it in a given\ntime than from a cold bath.\nOwing to the cost of the metal to be deposited\nvery large surfaces are rarely required to be\nelectroplated, and as these baths become worn\nout and must be replaced by fresh solutions\nafter a short time, they are usually, as a matter\nof economy and convenience, used in as small a\nvessel as the circumstances will admit of.\nThese vessels may be of glass, porcelain, or\nporcelain-enameled iron. The latter serve the\npurpose admirably (if the enamel is good).\nThey should be heated over the water bath or\nby means of steam.\nThe same bath does not answer very well for\nall metals— either the bath must be modified to\nsuit the metal or the latter must be previously\ncoated with another metal to suit the condi-\ntions. Gold deposits are obtained with the\ngreatest facility upon silver or copper, their\nrich alloys, or other metals coated with them.\nWith these a hot bath (at about 170° F.) and a\nmoderately strong current give good results.\nWith alloys, such as German silver, the best re-\nsults are obtained with a weak bath, barely\nwarm. Steel and iron, when not coated with\ncopper, require an intense current and a very\nhot bath. Lead, zinc, tin, antimony and bis-\nmuth alloys of, or containing much of these,\nare preferably coated with copper before elec-\ntrogilding.\n1. Hot Baths.\nFor silver, copper, or alloys rich in these.\nDistilled water 1 gal.\nPhosphate of soda, cryst 9^ oz.\nBisulphite of soda If oz.\nCyanide of potassium, pure... oz.\nGold chloride 160 grn.\nDissolve in a portion of the water, heated, the\nphosphate of soda. Dissolve in another por-\ntion of the water the bisulphite of soda and\ncyanide of potassium.\nDissolve the gold chloride in the remaining\nwater, stir the solution slowly into the cold\nphosphate of soda solution, and finally add the\nsolution of cyanide and bisulphite. The bath,\nnow ready for use, should be colorless.\nThe cost of this bath is about $5 a gal. and\nthe metal can be deposited from it profitably at\n$2 per dwt. Used at a temperature of from\n120° to 175° F.\n2. Bath for Iron and Steel— Uncoated.\nDistillad water 1 gal.\nPhosphate of soda, cryst 7iV oz.\nBisulphite of soda 2 oz.\nCyanide of potassium, pure. drm.\nGold chloride 160 grn.\nDissolve as before. Heat to 175° or 180° F„\nPass the second metal through the hot potash,\nthen through dilute muriatic acid (acid 1, water\n15), brush, and connect at once. Requires a\nvery intense current at first.\n3. The following baths work well with bronze\nand brass, but are not suited for direct gilding\non iron or steel\nDistilled water 1 gal.\nPhosphate of soda, cryst 6f oz.\nBisulphite of soda If oz.\nBicarbonate of potash. f oz.\nCaustic soda oz.\nCyanide of potassium* pure. |oz.\nGold chloride f oz.\nDissolve all together, except the gold chloride,\nin the hot water filter, cool and gradually stir\nin the gold chloride dissolved in a little water.\nHeat from 120° to 140° F. for use. It requires\nan intense current.\n4. Distilled water ...1 gal.\nFerrocyanide of potassium 5J oz.\nCarbonate of potash, pure If oz.\nSal ammonaic f oz.\nGold chloride. oz.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0200.jp2"},"199":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n1ST\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nDissolve as in the last, boil for half an hour,\nreplace the evaporated water, and the bath is\nready for use.\n5. Distilled water 1 gal.\nCyanide of potassium 2§ oz.\nGold chloride 1 oz.\nDissolve the gold chloride in the water, then\nadd the cyanide, and stir until solution is com-\nplete.\nBaths of this kinds are commonly used, and\nwith little regard to temperature. They are\nsimple in preparation, but are, unfortunately,\nnot very uniform in their working, ungilding\none part while another is gilding, and produc-\ning a variety of colors, especially when freshly\nprepared. They improve by use. however.\n6. Cold Electro-Gilding Bath.\nWater, distilled 1 gal.\nPotassium cyanide, pure ...3^ oz.\nGold chloride 3 T V oz.\nDissolve the cyanide in a part of the water,\nthen gradually add the gold chloride dissolved\nin the remainder. Boil for half an hour before\nusing. (Use cold.)\nThe cold bath is kept in a gutta percha lined,\nwooden, or (if small) porcelain tank arranged\nas for brass plating. The anodes are thin\nplates of laminated gold, wholly suspended in\nthe liquid (while in use) by means of platinum\nwires, from clean brass rods joined to the cop-\nper or carbon pole of the battery, the rods sup-\nporting the work being in connection with the\nzinc. When in proper working order the color\nof the deposit is yellow. If the deposit be-\ncomes black or dark red, add more cyanide\n(dissolved in water) to the bath, or use a weaker\ncurrent.\nIf the cyanide is in excess the plating will\nproceed very slowly or not all; or, as some-\ntimes happens, articles already gilded will lose\ntheir gold. In such a case add a little more\ngold chloride or increase the intensity of the\ncurrent.\nCold electro-gilding must be done slowly, and\nrequires a great deal of attention to secure\ngood work. The articles must be frequently\nexamined to detect irregular deposits or dark\nspots (which must be scratch-brushed and re-\nturned). It is also frequently necessary to add\nto or remove an element from the battery,\nespecially when adding or taking work from\nthe bath. With too much intensity of current\nthe deposit is black or red; if too weak those\nportions opposite the anode only get covered.\nIn coating German silver it is necessary to use\na weak bath and a small exposure of anode.\nThe best results with this alloy are obtained\nwhen the bath is slightly warmed.\n7. Management of the Hot Bath.\nThe articles should be kept in agitation while\nin the bath. They should be placed in connec-\ntion with the battery before or immediately\nupon entering the bath. A foil or wire of\nplatinum is in many cases preferable to a sol-\nuble gold anode when electro-gilding by aid of\nheat. It suffers no alteration in the liquid, and\nby its manipulation the color of the deposit\nmay be materially altered. When it is removed\nso as to expose only a small surface in the bath\na pale yellowish deposit may be obtained; when\nthe immersion is greater, a clear yellow; with a\nstill greater exposure, a red gold color. The\nstrength of the hot baths may be maintained\nby successive additions of gold chloride with a\nproper proportion of the other salts and water;\nbut it is preferable to wear out the bath en-\ntirely and prepare a new one, as it soon be-\ncomes contaminated with copper or silver if\nmuch of these metals have been gilt in it. In\na nearly exhausted bath containing dissolved\ncopper the electro deposit will be what is\ncalled red gold; if it contains an excess of\nsilver a green gold deposit will result. The\ngold and copper or gold and silver are depos-\nited together as an alloy, the color of which\ndepends upon the relative proportion of the\nmetals, battery, strength, etc.\nDead luster gilding is produced by the slow\ndeposition of a considerable quantity of gold,\nby giving the metallic surface a dead luster be-\nfore gilding (by means of acids), by first pre-\nparing a coating of frosted silver or by depos-\niting the gold upon a heavy copper deposit\nproduced with a weak current in a bath of\ncopper sulphate.\nIn order to secure a good deposit of gold it is\nabsolutely necessary that the work should be\nperfectly freed from any trace of oxide, grease,\noil, or other impurity. Articles of copper and\nbrass may be cleansed by first immersing them\nin a strong boiling solution of caustic potash\nor soda, and, after rinsing, dipping momen-\ntarily in nitric acid and immediately rinsing,\nor scouring with pumice stone moistened with\na strong solution of cyanide of potassium in\nwater.\nOther metals require a somewhat different\ntreatment, which we will have occasion to re-\nfer to in a subsequent article.\nThe bichromate battery is commonly used in\nconnection with hot electro-gilding baths,\nAs gold chloride procured in the market can-\nnot always be depended on for purity and\nstrength, it is pref erable to purchase the gold\nand make the chloride. A pure gold chloride\nmay be prepared as follows\nPut coin gold, in small pieces, into a glass\nflask with about five times its weight of aqua\nregia (nitric acid 1, hydrochloric acid 3), and\nheat gently, with small additions of aqua regia\nif necessary, until the gold is dissolved and the\nsilver remains behind as white chloride. Let it\nsettle, decant the clear solution, wash the resi-\ndue several times with water, adding the wash-\nings to the gold solution. Evaporate off excess\nof the acids in a porcelain dish over a water\nbath (nearly to dryness). Dilute with ten parts\nof water, and gradually add a strong aqueous\nsolution (filtered) of sulphate of iron. Let\nstand until the dark powder (gold) settles;\ngently decant the liquid, wash the gold with\nhot water, and redissolve it in a small quantity\nof warm aqua regia and evaporate the solu-\ntion with constant stirring, to dryness in a\nporcelain dish over the water bath. One ounce\nof pure gold equals about 1 T ounces of gold\nchloride.\n8. Amateurs Gilding Solution.— The best and\ncheapest solution for amateur electro-gilding,\nand also for ooerators in a small way of busi-\nness, is the double cyanide of gold and potas-\nsium solution made by the battery process.\nThis contains some oxide of potash, but if\nmade up of pure gold and pure 98% cyanide of\npotassium, it will yield good results at once,\nand continue to give them for years if kept in\nproper working condition. This solution is\nmade up in the following manner Procure 5\ndwts. pure gold ribbon, leaf, or wire (and\ndivide it into 2 parts), 3 dwts. pure white\ncyanide of potassium and 1 qt. of distilled\nwater. Dissolve the cyanide of potassium in\nthe distilled water made hot in a good enam-\neled saucepan, and keep it at nearly scalding-\nheat while making and working the gilding\nsolution. Make up a battery of two Bunsen\ncells or three Daniel cells in series. Hang one\nstrip of gold from the wire leading to the nega-\ntive element of the battery, and the other strip\nto the wire leading to the positive element of\nbattery. Get a small, clean, white porous bat-\ntery cell, nearly fill it with cyanide of potassium\nsolution, place it in the saucepan and suspend in\nthe porous cell the strip of gold connected to\nthe zinc element of the battery. Immerse the\nother strip of gold in the outer cyanide solu-\ntion, and pass current (Irom the battery) from\none to the other for some two or three hours.\nDuring that time some of the gold will have\ndissolved off the anode strip and entered into\ncombination with the cyanide of potassium.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0201.jp2"},"200":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n188\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nsolution to form the double cyanide of gold\nand potassium gilding- bath, but this will not\nhave penetrated into the porous cell, nor will\nthe strip of gold therein have suffered any loss.\nIf at the end of this time a piece of German\nsilver, suspended from the cathode Avire in the\nouter solution, receives a fair coat of gold in a\nfew moments, the bath is ready for gilding\nwork. The contents of the porous cell may be\npoured into the outer solution, both strips of\ngold used as the anode, and the work may pro-\nceed with current from one or more cells, as\nmay be required. At first there may be too\nmuch free cyanide, and the deposit may in\nconsequence be too dark, but this fault will\nsoon be corrected if the anode plates are\nwholly immersed while gilding. If the con-\ntrary condition exists, and the anode plates\nare dirty, or do not dissolve freely, add a very\nlittle more cyanide to the solution. This will\nbe found to be the cheapest solution, because\nthere is no loss of material in making it up. If\nthe whole of the gold strip dissolves in the cyan-\nide solution, the bath will not be too rich in gold,\nas a very useful strength is 2 dwts. of gold in\nthe quart of solution. A larger quantity may\nbe made in the same manner in the same pro-\nportions.\n9. French Gilding for Cheap Jewelry.— The\nbath for gilding recommended by Roseleur is\ncomposed of pyrophosphate of soda or potassa,\n800 grm.; hydrocyanic acid of (prussic acid),\n8 grm.; chloride of gold crystallized, 20 grm. dis-\ntilled water, 10 liters. The pyrophosphate of\nsoda is generally employed and this may be\nprepared by melting at a white heat, ordinary\ncrystallized phosphate of soda in a crucible.\nThe quantity of gold given in the above formula\nrepresents the grammes of the pure metal dis-\nsolved by aqua regia. In making the bath 9 liters\nof water are put into a porcelain vessel and the\npyrophosphate added, with stirring a little at\na time, moderate heat being applied until all\nthe salt is dissolved. The solution is then filtered\nand allowed to cool. The chloride of gold is al-\nlowed to crystallize, the crystals dissolved in\na little distilled water, and the solution fil-\ntered. Add the chloride solution to the cold\nsolution of pyrophosphate of soda, then add\nthe hydrocyanic acid and heat to near boiling-\npoint.\nThis bath will produce fine gilding upon well\ncleaned articles, which must also have been\npassed through a very diluted solution of ni-\ntrate of mercury, without which the deposit of\ngold is red and irregular. The articles must\nbe constantly agitated in the bath, and sup-\nported by a hook, or placed in a stoneware\nladle perforated with holes.\n10. Gilding Solution (Fizeau s).—^.. 1 part of\ndry chloride of gold is dissolved in 160 parts\ndistilled water; to this is added gradually a\nsolution of a carbonated alkali, in distilled\nwater, until the liquid becomes cloudy. This\nsolution may be used immediately.\nB. 1 grm. chloride of gold; 4 grm. hyposul-\nphite soda, distilled in 1 liter of distilled\nwater.\n11. Wood s Solution.— 4 oz. (troy) cyanide of\npotassium; 1 oz. cyanide gold, dissolved in 1\ngal. distilled water. The solution is used at a\ntemperature of about 90° Fah., with a current\nof at least two cells.\n12. M. De Briant s Solution.— Dissolve 34 grm.\no± gold in aqua regia, and evaporate the solu-\ntion until it becomes neutral chloride of gold;\nthen dissolve the chloride in 4 kilogrammes of\nwarm water and add to it 200 grm. of magne-\nsia; the gold is precipitated. Filter and wash\nwith pure water; digest the precipitate in 40\nparts of water, mixed with 3 parts of nitric\nacid, to remove magnesia, then wash the re-\nmaining (x-esulting) oxide of gold with water,\nuntii the wash water exhibits no acid reaction\nwith test paper (litrnus paper). Next dissolve\n400 grm. ferrocyanide of potassium (yellow\nprussiate of potash) and 100 grm. of caustic\npotash in 4 liters of water, add the oxide of gold,\nand boil the solution about twenty minutes.\nWhen the gold is dissolved, there remains a\nsmall amount of iron, precipitated, which may\nbe removed by filtration, and the liquid of a\nfine gold color is ready for use; it may be em-\nployed either hot or cold.\n13. Gilding Solution. The following solution,\nto be used at a temperature of from 120° to 180°\nFah., is recommended by M. E. Rod in Le\n3Ionde de La Science crystallized phosphate of\nsoda, 60; bisulphate of soda, 10; cyanide of\npotassium, 1 chloride of gold, 2}4 distilled or\nrain water, 1,000 parts by weight. To prepare\nthis bath properly die water should be divided\ninto three portions, viz., one of 700 parts and\ntwo of 150 parts. The sodic phosphate is dis-\nsolved in the first portion, the chloride of gold\nin the second, and the bisulphate of soda\nand cyanide of potassium in the third. The\nfirst two portions are gradually mixed tog-ether,\nand the third is afterward added. With this\nsolution M. Rod uses a platinum anode (a wire\nor strip), adding fresh portions of the gold salt\nas the solution becomes exhausted.\n14. Electro-Gilding Solution. Cold— The cold\ngilding bath is sometimes used for very large\nobjects, as clocks, chandeliers, etc., to avoid the\nnecessity of heating large volumes of liquid—\nFerrocyanide of potassium (yellow prussiate of\npotash) 20 parts, pure carbonate of potash 30\nparts, sal-ammoniac 3 parts, gold 15 parts, water\n1,000 parts. All of the salts except the chloride\nof gold are to be added to the water, and the\nmixture boiled and afterward filtered. The\nchloride of gold is next to be dissolved, in a\nlittle distilled water and added to the filtered\nliquor. The deposit of gold from cold solutions\nvaries greatly as to color. When the bath is in\nits best working condition, and a brisk current\nof electricity employed, the gold should be of\na pure yellow color.\n15. Gilding Polished Steel.— For gilding pol-\nished steel, a nearly neutral solution of chloride\nof gold is mixed with sulphuric ether and well\nshaken. The ether will take up the gold and\nthe ethereal solution float above the denser\nacid. If the ethereal solution be applied by\nmeans of a camel s hair brush to brightly pol-\nished steel or iron, the ether evaporates and the\ngold, which adheres more or less firmly, be-\ncomes reduced to the metallic state on the\nsteel, and may be either polished or burnished.\nSteel receives a deposit of gold with great\nrapidity, even with a very weak battery cur-\nrent.\n16. For Producing a Dead or Matted Surface\non Brass Articles of Jewelry, as Brooches,\nLockets, etc. First dip them for an instant in\na mixture composed of equal parts of sulphuric\nand nitric acids, to which a small quantity of\ncommon salt is added plunge immediately in\ncold water. Rinse in one or two other waters,\nthen immerse in the gilding bath, in which,\nafter a moment s immersion, they acquire the\ndesired color of gold. After rinsing in hot\nwater they are finally dried in hot boxwood\nsawdust.\n17. Gilding Lead, Britannia Metal, etc.— When\narticles composed of lead, tin, Uritannia metal,\niron or steel are required to be gilded it is best\nto give them a preliminary coating of copper\nin an alkaline bath, or to electro-brass them,\nafter which they may be easily gilded; The\nsofter metals need to be burnished with great\ncare, owing to their yielding nature under the\npressure of the burnishing tools.\nOperations connected with Electro -deposi-\ntion. Solution for protecting plated work,\nwhich is to be gilded in a hot cyanide bath,\nfrom receiving the gold deposit upon parts of\nthe ornamental work: Clear resin, 10 parts;\nyellow beeswax, 6 parts best red sealing wax,\n4 parts; jeweler s rouge, 3 parts. The three\nfirst named substances are to be thoroughly\nmelted, with gentle stirring, and the rouge,\nwhich is the peroxide of iron, gradually added","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0202.jp2"},"201":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n189\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nand incorporated with stirring. The article to\nwhich the stopping off varnish has been ap-\nplied should never be placed either in a hot or\ncold bath until it has become thoroughly dry\nand hard.\nIron.— Electro-deposition of Iron, Solutions\nf or.— 1. Amrnonio Sulphate of Iron Solution.—\nThis double salt, which was first proposed by\nBoettger, for depositing this metal, may be\nreadily prepared by evaporating and crystalliz-\ning mixed solutions of equal parts of sulphate\nof iron and sulphate of ammonia. A solution of\nthe double salt yields a fine white deposit of\niron, with a moderate current, and has been\nvery extensively enployed in facing en-\ngraved copper plates. When carefully worked\nthis is one of the best solutions for the depo-\nsition of iron upon copper surfaces.\n2. Boettger s Ferrocyanide Solution.— This\nsolution for coating engraved copper plates\nwith iron is formed by dissolving 10 grm. of\nferrocyanide of potassium (yellow prussiate of\npotash) and 20 grn. of Rochelle salts in 200 cubic\ncentimeters of distilled water. To this solution\nis added a solution consisting of 3 grm. of per-\nsulphate of iron in 50 cubic centimeters of\nwater. A solution of caustic soda is then added\ndrop by drop, with constant stirring, until a\nperfectly clear, light, yellowish liquid is ob-\ntained, which is ready for immediate use.\nLead may be deposited from its acetate solu-\ntion or from a solution of oxide of lead, in\ncaustic soda or potash, in the form of beautiful\nmetallo-chromes, on polished surfaces of steel\nor nickel.\nMagnesium has been deposited from a solution\nof the double chloride of magnesium and am-\nmonia.\nMetallo-chromes. See Appendix.\nNickel.— Preparation of Nickel Solution.— The\nsubstance generally employed is the double\nsulphate of nickel and ammonia, or nickel\nsalts, a crystalline salt of a beautiful green\n:*nierald color. This article should be pure.\nFor 100 gal. of the solution the proportions em-\nployed are: Double sulphate of nickel and am-\nmonia, 75 lb; water, 100 gal. Place the nickel\nsalts in a clean wooden tub or bucket and pour\nupon them a quantity of hot or boiling water;\nstir briskly with a wooden stick for a few min-\nutes, after which the green solution may be\npoured into the tank, and a fresh supply of hot\nwater added to the undissolved crystals, with\nstirring as before. This operation is to be con-\ntinued until all the crystals are dissolved, and\nthe solution transferred to the tank. A suffi-\ncient quantity of cold water is now to be added\nto make up 100 gal. in all. It is better to pass\nthe hot solution through a strainer before it\nenters the tank, to free it from impurities.\nNickel Plating— The Plating Bath.\nThe nickel salts commonly used are the nickel\nammonium sulphate (called double sulphate)\nand the corresponding chloride. Other salts,\nsuch as the nickel potassium cyanide, the ace-\ntate and sulphate, have been used, but not so\nsuccessfully as these.\nThe double sulphate bath may be prepared\nby dissolving -M lb. of the salt in each gallon of\nwater (soft). The salt costs about 65 cents a\npound, and is generally considered the best for\nthis purpose. It should be kept neutral and up\nto about 6° of hydrometer.\nThe double chloride bath requires about 4 oz.\nof the salt per gallon, and works better slightly\nacid, the tendency in working being toward\nalkalinity.\nThe bath should be filtered when freshly pre-\npared, and should be kept in a separate room,\nor at least away from the apartment in which\nthe buffing or polishing is performed, to avoid\ncontamination by dust as much as possible.\nExposed to the air, the bath (the water) evapor-\nates, and the water thus lost must be replaced\nfrom time to time. To retard this and keep\nout dust as much as possible, it is well to cover\nthe bath when not in use. Its surface should\nbe skimmed occasionally and it should be fre-\nquently mixed together to preserve a uniform\ndegree of strength.\nThe tank or vessel in which the bath is con-\ntained is usually constructed of smooth 2 in.\nwhite pine stuff, grooved and well bolted to-\ngether and coated on the inside with good\nasphaltum applied in the melted state.\nInstead of this form, a clean tub or a half\nbarrel or hogshead, with an extra hoop, may\nbe used, though from the shape of such a ves-\nsel there is necessarily much waste space to be\nfilled with useless liquid.\nFor small baths a neat form of vessel con-\nsisting in a square porcelain lined (enameled)\niron tank of suitable dimensions is sold by some\nof the dealers in electroplating materials.\nAnodes or Feeding Plates.\nGood pure cast nickel anodes are now ob-\ntained at a moderate cost ($1.85 per lb.), and are\npreferable to grain metal anodes. They usu-\nally come in sizes ranging from 1% x 4 in., T 3 S in.\nthick, to 8 x 12 in., in. thick.\nThey may be suspended around the sides of\nthe tank or across and facing the work (care\nbeing taken to avoid bringing them into such\nclose proximity to the work that contact is\nlikely to occur under any circumstance). They\nmay be suspended by clean copper trusses or\nhooks— which should not be permitted to touch\nthe liquid— from stout copper rods, to which\nconnection with the battery is made.\nThe Battery.\nIn nearly all large electroplating establish-\nments some form of dynamo-electric machine\nis now used instead of the battery. They are\ncleanly, require little attention and space and\nafford a current more easily adapted to the\nwork and at a much smaller cost.\nBut as their first cost is considerable, and\nthey require power to operate them, the old\nbattery is still in requisition in smaller estab-\nlishments. The carbon or chromic acid battery\nis more commonly used, as it admits of more\nrapid work with a smaller number of cells;\nbut as it supplies a very intense current, it\noften becomes necessary to introduce resist-\nance coils to reduce it where small work is on\nhand. Some of the best work we have ever\nseen has been produced with the current de-\nrived from two or three Smee or sulphate of\ncopper cells (in series). The amount of battery\npoweL for a given amount of work should be\nin zinc surface (exposed) about equal (when in\nproper working order) to the surface of the\nwork exposed in the plating bath, with care to\npreserve the tension. If one cell has a zinc\nsurface (exposed) of, say one hundred square\ninches, and the work, say, five hundred, the one\ncell will require to be multiplied by five for\nquantity and (if the original tension was, say,\nthree) by three to preserve the tension. Thus\nWORK\nOf course this is equivalent to three large\nsingle cells, each exposing five hundred square\ninches of zinc (equal to a plate about sixteen\ninches square, exposing both sides). Large bat-\nteries of the dipping form, admitting of the\nimmersion of the proper quantity of zinc, are\noften convenient.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0203.jp2"},"202":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n190\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nIf the current is too strong the deposited\nmetal will present a dull (commonly termed\nburnt) appearance if too weak it is apt to be\nimperfect, granular, or semi-crystalline.\nFor practical purposes the electricity may he\nsaid to proceed from the copper or carbon pole\nof the battery, and care should be taken that\nthis pole is invariably connected (by stout cop-\nper wires or rods) with the anodes or feeding\nplates in the plating bath, for if misconnected\ndamage is done both to the work and the bath\nby the corrosion or partial solution of the\nformer in the latter.\nPreparing the Work.\nBefore work can be plated its surface must be\nfreed perfectly from all traces of oil or grease,\noxides, lacquer, and other impurities. Oil,\ngrease, etc., are removed by contact with a\nstrong, hot aqueous solution of caustic potash,\nand, after rinsing off the adhering alkali, from\noxide by an acid bath or, if of brass, copper,\nor German silver, by scouring with tine pumice\nstone and strong- aqueous solution of cyanide\nof potassium. Iron is pickled in dilute sul-\nphuric or muriatic acid (acid 1, water 5 to 15),\nand scoured with fine white silicious sand or\npumice stone. Brass or copper, is sometimes\nbrightened before entering to the plating bath\nby dipping it momentarily in nitric acid diluted\nwith about 20 parts of water, and quickly rins-\ning it in running water. It should be placed in\ncircuit immediately alter this.\nThe hand must not come into contact with\nany part of the work after removal from the\nalkali, as the slightest touch may spoil all.\nOn removal of the plated work from the plat-\ning bath it should be quickly rinsed (without\nhandling) in cold water, then transferred to\nhot water, which will cause it when taken out\nto dry quickly and perfectly. If the finished\nwork is to present a smooth polishing surface\nit must present such a surface before entering\nthe plating bath. Nickel is hard and will not\nreadily submit to a burnishing tool.\nWhen the work is placed in circuit in the\nplating bath (and it should not be permitted to\nremain many moments in the bath without\nbeing placed in circuit) it should be moved\nabout to free it from bubbles.\nThe process of nickel plating is a simple one,\nand by a little practice and proper attention to\nthe requirements the bath may be worked\nmonth after month, and the metal deposited\nsmoothly and with certainty.\nFormulae for Nickel-Plating Solutions.\n1. Double sulphate of nickel\nand ammonium 5 to 8 parts.\nWater 100 parts.\nDissolve the nickel double salt in above quan-\ntity of water with the aid of heat. Cautiously\nadd ammonia, or the sulphate of ammonium,\nuntil the solution is neutral to test paper. This\nsolution should be maintained as nearly neu-\ntral as possible in use. This is commonly\nknown in the United States as the Adams solu-\ntion. It is in very general use by nickel platers\nthroughout the United States, and yields,\nwhere properly managed, excellent results.\n2. Double sulphate of nickel\nand ammonium 10 parts.\nBoric acid (refined) 2*4 to 5 parts.\nWater 150 to 200 parts.\n(Weston s solution.) The superiority of this\nsolution is generally acknowledged. The de-\nposited metal, as previously remarked, is al-\nmost silver- white, dense, homogeneous and ten-\nacious, and the solution maintains its excellent\nworking quality very uniformly in long-con-\ntinued service.\nThe nickel salt and boric acid may be dis-\nsolved separately in boiling water, the solutions\nmixed, and the volume brought up to that of\nthe formula, or the two components may be\ndissolved together.\n3. Acetate of nickel 2% parts.\nAcetate of calcium. 2% parts.\nWater 100 parts.\nTo each gallon of this solution add 1 fl. oz.\nacetic acid, 1*047 sp. gr.\nTo prepare this bath, dissolve about the\nsame quantity of the dry carbonate of nickel\nas that called for in the formula (or three-\nquarters of that quantity of the hydrated\noxide) in acetic acid, adding the acid cau-\ntiously, and heating until effervescence has\nceased and solution is complete. The acetate\nof calcium may be made by dissolving the same\nweight of carbonate of calcium (marble dust)\nas that called for in the formula (or one-half\nthat quantity of caustic lime), and treating it\nin the same manner. Add the two solutions\ntogether, dilute the volume to the required\namount by the addition of water, and then to\neach gallon of the solution add a fluid ounce of\nfree acetic acid, as prescribed. (Potts solu-\ntion.)\n4. Sulphate of nickel and am-\nmonium 10 parts.\nSulphate of ammonium 4 parts.\nCitric acid 1 part.\nWater. 200 parts.\nThe solution is made with the aid of heat,\nand, when cool, small fragments of carbonate\nof ammonium should be added until the bath\nis neutral to test paper.\n5. Sulphate of nickel 6 parts.\nCitrate of nickel 3 parts.\nPhosphate of nickel 3 parts.\nBenzoic acid 1)4 parts.\nWater 200 parts.\n6. Phosphate of nickel 10 parts.\nCitrate of nickel 6 parts.\nPyrophosphate of sodium 10J^ parts.\nBisulphite of sodium. \\\\4 parts.\nCitric acid 3 parts.\nAqua ammonia 15 parts.\nWater 400 parts.\n(Powell s solutions.) These solutions yield\ngood results, but their complex composition\nmust debar them from general use.\n7. Sulphate of nickel 6 parts.\nAqua ammonia 3 parts.\nWater 100 parts.\nWhen the nickel is dissolved, add—\nAqua ammonia 20 parts.\nThis bath is similar to that recommended by\nProf. Boettger; it is said to be well suited for\nthe purposes of amateurs, inasmuch as it gives\ngood results with a platinum anode. It is\nworked at a temperature of 100° Fah., with a\nmoderate current. It requires renewal from\ntime to time, as it becomes impoverished in\nnickel, by addition of fresh nickel salt; it must\nalso be kept alkaline by the occasional addition\nof ammonia.\n8. Sulphate of nickel and ammo-\nnium 10 parts.\nSulphate of ammonium. \\\\4 parts.\nWater t 250 parts.\nDissolve in boiling water, and allow to cooh\nThese proportions are recommended for coat-\ning objects of cast and wrought iron and steel.\n9. Sulphate of nickel and ammo-\nnium 10 parts.\nSulphate of ammonium. 2 parts.\nWater 300 parts.\nDissolve as above. Recommended for coat-\ning brass, copper, tin, britannia, lead, zinc, etc.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0204.jp2"},"203":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n191\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nS 2.\nIdco\n2 c\nP et\n_\n£2\ndS\nrt-p\n5\n©a\nO C\npc\nd. s O\nHi CO kj\nSO H-. S\no g-\nP5\na o\nBBa\n2 5\nP»\nso\n£-2.o -a\nffp g;p\n2 a\n3. £o\nP DO\nB S\nBo\no x\n2.2\nc\n3\no\no\n5 B-\nCO-*\n20 p\n2 h-\ncd\np c\nBo\nB2.\no\na\n2££\nGO GO\n£^p\n^a;©\nH-O rt-\nro h 4\nGO S\nO O\no\nc^\n5 2,\ni—\n5T©\n2o\nM a\nB5-\n2X\nC©\nb~d\nacp ir\ndo ?5 2\na\np\nc-t-\non\nb\nPee\n%p\nB\nBo\na\nB£\ndb\nct-3\n£r\nO-GQ\np\n4 r+-\no\nI—*\n©©O\np p p p\nH-H-H-rt-\nGO GO GO CO\ngo on; crq aq\np pp\nBBB\nBBS\npp?s P P P\n1 4 4 4 4 4\nH-H-c-t- H-H-H-\n2 o o\nGo3=iJS\n4 4\nP P\nB3\ncw\nBo\notr 3\n7T\n1\nr+\nB 1\np\nB\n3\nr»\nc\na\nC\nr+\nm\nd\na\nN\np\nrt-\nr*\nO\n4\n-t-\nrj-tf\n3\na\noo\nH-\nP\nO\nHs\nU9\nd\nD*\no\nX\nu.\nc\nw\nP £CD\nGO a go\nO H-\nS o\np d x,\n£;2\ni^ O g\nP\n^2o\no^ai\nss d\n2.©m\n|El.\nSt DO\n5 B\n2 o\nda\nS-p\nd Q\na. a go\nN d\n111\nsi I\nP 2 d\nGO\nd\ncB m\nO a 3 d\no og-4 a\noooSa^\n4s4 cro a s\nd fid\nM.d 3 d CO\nGO rt p CT 1 ps\ng© l^!o\nS -?3 P\n-.OOpM\nrt- (I to CD d 9\neye 4-3\no S-d o S\nBT y 2 12. p\nl|dl?3\nfi- 3 g. S r CD\n6a O\n©3Q 4 3\n3 d p d/55-\ns.o B p g\na d-d __*•(\no a go\nIsl p\nfe^o M\n?o^\na d\nc a d^ o\na p d* r+ p\nc -•d.s d 1\npt-s a cq\ns 2;^ go 3\naOd-2.p\ngo a ffal,\nd O 4\nd- 5- 2 55\nd 2-s c a\n^03 2^\na o d-p\nn p g\nS ^2^\nb\nB H.S 5\nl||\nc»\nP Hs c+-\na B\nd.GO\nci 2. p\nt^© d\n£pp\nd-d d:\n%d\np3 h\n3;Bd\nC d H-\ndB B\nm.©\nGO\na.?d;\nBid 4\nop 3\npgfcD\nr+a;^,\n5 5o\no a\nOOtf\no2.(J\nB ^2\nP\na\n=r\np\nd\np\no ei\nB\no\n2\np\no","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0205.jp2"},"204":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n192\nElectro-Metallurgy.\n16. Sulphate of nickel and ammo-\nnium 6 parts.\nChloride of ammonium (sal\nammoniac) 3 parts.\nWater 100 parts.\nWatt recommends for ordinary purposes the\nfollowing- solution, which he affirms will give\nin careful hands very good results: Take say\n2 oz. of pure nickel, dissolve in hydrochloric\nacid, taking care not to have an excess. A\ngentle heat will assist the operation. When\ndissolved, dilute the solution with 1 qt. of cold\nwater. Now add ammonia gradually, until the\nsolution is quite neutral to test paper. Next,\ndissolve 1 oz. of sal ammoniac (chloride of am-\nmonium) in water, and mix this with the former\nsolution. Lastly, evaporate and crystallize\nslowly. 1 The resulting salt will be the double\nchloride of nickel and ammonium. It is one of\nthe earliest solutions used for nickel plating by\nSmee and Gore, and is affirmed by these writers\nto give good results. Watt has also obtained\nexcellent results with the double chloride.\nAccording to Smee, the simple chloride of\nnickel will yield a deposit having a very bril-\nliant uster.\n1 can unqualifiedly confirm the statement of\nGore that the electro-deposit obtained from a\nsolution of the double cyanide of nickel and\npotassium is nearly equal in whiteness to\nsilver. I have obtained deposits with this\nsolution of such extreme whiteness and\nbeauty as to deceive even an expert on casual\ninspaction into the belief that they were silver.\nThe bath, however, rapidly loses its activity\nand runs down, and is so difficult to manage\nthat it is impracticable for general use. This,\nat least, is the opinion I have reached after\nmany trials of it. I am informed, neverthe-\nless, that it is successfully used on the large\nscale in certain nickel plating works in this\ncountry, though I have not been able to sub-\nstantiate the fact.\nTo prepare this bath make a solution of any\nsalt of nickel, and add cyanide of potassium\nsolution so long as a precipitate continues to be\nformed, being careful to avoid adding an ex-\ncess. Then remove the liquid either by decan-\ntation or filtration, and after several washings\ndissolve the precipitate almost to saturation in\ncyanide of potassium solution. Make a com-\npletely saturated solution and add a small\nquantity of free cyanide of potassium. The\nbrownish-red solution is then ready for use.\nCorrespondent Franklin Journal.\nA large number of American manufactories\nuse the following recipes for nickeling:\n17. Bath for Brass, Copper, Tin, Britannia\nMetal, Lead, Zinc and Tinned Sheet Metal.— 13\ngal. of water, 4 lb. double sulphate of nickel\nand ammonium, 14 oz. sulphate of ammonium;\ndissolve by boiling. Let the liquid cool. Test\nwith red or blue litmus paper. Add a little\nhyd :ochlorate of ammonia if any acid is present.\n18. Ordinary Nickel Baths.— (1.) 4^ gal. of\nwater, 1J4 lb. double sulphate of nickel and am-\nmonium, lb. hydrochlorate of ammonia; dis-\nsolve by boiling. Make the fluid slightly alka-\nline by adding V/2 lb. of caustic ammonia. The\nfluid should show 3° to 4° by the hydrometer.\n19. 3J^ gal. water, 2 lb. double sulphate of\nnickel and ammonium, 21 oz. hydrochlorate\nof ammonium, 14 oz. sulphate of ammonium;\ndissolve by boiling. Let the liquid cool.\n20. Solution for Nickeling Small Articles, such\nas Umbrella Mounts, etc. Double sulphate of\nnickel and ammonium 7 kilogrammes; bicar-\nbonate of soda 80i»grm.; water 100 liters. The\nbicarbonate of soda must be added when the\nnickel solution is warm, in small quantities at a\ntime, otherwise the effervescence which occurs\nmight cause the solution to overflow. The\nbath is to be worked up to nearly boiling point.\nIf, after working for some time, the deposit\nbecomes of a darkish color, add a small lump\nof sulphide of sodium, which will remedy it.\n—M. Desmur.\n21. Powell s Process.— This inventor claims\nthat benzoic acid added to any of the nickel\nsalts arrests the tendency to an imperfect\ndeposit, prevents the decomposition of the\nsolution and consequent formation of sub-\nsalts. The proportion of benzoic acid to be\nadded to the bath is y% of an oz. to a gallon of\nthe solution. Powell gives the following for-\nmulas for nickel baths:\na. Sulphate of nickel and ammonia, 10 parts;\nsulphate of ammonia, 4 parts; citric acid, 1 part;\nwater, 200 parts. The solution is prepared with\nthe aid of heat, and, when cool, a small quan-\ntity of carbonate of ammonia is added, until\nthe solution is neutral to test paper.\nb. Sulphate of nickel, 6 parts; citrate of nickel,\n3 parts; phosphate of nickel, 3 parts; benzoic\nacid, 1% part; water, 200 parts.\n22. A new nickel plating solution, said to\nyield beautiful results, is prepared by mixing\nthe liquid obtained by evaporating a solution\nof y% oz. nickel in ,aqua regia to a pasty mass\nand dissolving it in 1 lb. aqua ammonia, with\nthat obtained by treating the same quantity of\nnickel with a solution of 2 oz. cyanide of potas-\nsium in 1 lb. of water. More cyanide renders\nthe deposit whiter and more ammonia renders\nit grayer.\n23. Solution for Nickeling Tin, Britannia\nMetal, etc.— Sulphate of nickel and ammonium,\n10 parts; sulphate of ammonium, 2 parts; water,\n300 parts. The salts are to be dissolved in boil-\ning water, and when cold the solution is ready\nfor use. For nickeling cast and wrought iron\nand steel the following bath is recommended:\nSulphate of nickel and ammonium, 10 parts; sul-\nphate of ammonium, V/% part; water, 250 parts.\n24. Renickeling Old Work.— When goods\nwhich have been nickel-plated require to be\nrenickeled, it is always better to remove the\nold coating by means of a stripping solution,\nas nickel will not adhere to a coating of the\nsame metal. A stripping bath may be com-\nposed as follows: Oil of vitriol. 16 lb.; nitric\nacid, 4 lb.; water, 2 qt. Add the oil of vitriol to\nthe water (not the reverse, which is dangerous)\ngradually, and when the mixture has cooled\ndown, add the nitric acid, and stir the mixture\nwith a glass rod. When cold it is ready for use.\nAttach the articles to be stripped to a piece of\nstout brass or copper wire and place in the\nstripping liquid they should be examined after\na few moments. The operation of stripping\nshould be conducted in the open air or in a fire-\nplace with good draught. The articles should\nnot be allowed to remain in the liquid one\nmoment after the nickel has been dissolved\nfrom the surface, but be immediately i-emoved\nand plunged in cold water.\n1. Palladium may be deposited from the double\ncyanide of palladium and potassium, or from\nthe double chloride of palladium and potas-\nsium.\n2. Palladium, which is a whiter, lighter and\nmore fusible metal than platinum, has of re-\ncent years been much used to plate watch\nmovements, says the Electrician. According\nto M. Pilet four milligrammes (about one-seven-\nteenth of a grain) of palladium is sufficient to\ncoat the works of an ordinary sized watch. M.\nPilet recommends the following bath Water,\n2 liters; chloride of palladium, 10 grm.; phos-\nphate of ammonia, 100 grm.; phosphate of\nsoda, 500 grm.; benzoic acid, 5 grm. This bath\nis suitable for all metals except zinc.\nPlatinizing Silver. For use in Smee cells.\nThe silver plate to be coated is plunged in a\nbath of bichloride of platinum and acidulated\nwater. A current is sent through the bath\nfrom a platinum anode, the silver serving as\ncathode. A rough coating of platinum takes\nplace on the silver.\nTo Platinize Carbon (Walker).— The carbon\nplate is purified by immersion for several days\nin sulphuric acid diluted with three or four\ntimes its volume of water, then put into a bath\nof sulphuric acid diluted with ten times its","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0206.jp2"},"205":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n193\nElectro-Metallurgy,\nvolume of water, with crystals of chloride of\nplatinum added until it becomes straw colored.\nThe carbon is connected to the— pole of the\nbattery and a platinum or carbon plate con-\nnected to the -f- pole serves for anode. After\ntwenty minutes the carbon is platinized, as\nmay be proved by using it to decompose water.\nThe hydrogen should freely rise from its sur-\nface.\nTo Platinize Iron.— Steep the iron plate in an\nacid solution of platinum in aqua regia.\nSilver Plating, Simple Instructions for.— For\nsilver plating the bath consists of potassium\nsilver cyanide, prepared by precipitating solu-\naion of silver nitrate with potassium cyanide\nand redissolving the washed precipitate in ex-\ncess of potassium cyanide solution— potassium\ncyanide, 12 oz.; water, 1 gal.; silver cyanide,\nabout 1 troy oz. Filter and use in a porcelain\nor glazed vessel. For the whitening bath dis-\nsolve 1 lb. potassium cyanide in 1 gal. of water,\nadd 34 oz. troy of silver cyanide and filter the\nsolution. The baths are provided with silver\nfeeding plates for anodes proportioned in size\nto the surface of the work to be plated. These\nare connected Avith the positive pole of the\nbattery. The cleaned articles are connected by\na copper wire with the zinc pole of the battery,\ndipped for a minute or two in the whitening\nbath, and when uniformly coated with a white\nfilm of silver, transferred to the plating bath,\nunder similar conditions. 3 or 4 Smee cells\nwith plates 10x4 in. will generally suffice for\nthe plating bath, and 4 or 5 similar cells for the\nwhitening bath twenty to thirty minutes in\nthe plating bath is usually sufficient to plate\nthe work properly. Articles of copper, brass\nor G-erman silver to be plated should first be\ncleaned by boiling them for a few minutes in\nstrong potash Avater to free them from traces\nof oil or grease, and, after rinsing, in dilute\nnitric acid to remove any oxide and again\nthoroughly rinsed. It must not be touched by\nthe hand after cleaning. Just before putting\nthe work into the bath, dip it momentarily in\nstrong nitric or a mixture of equal parts\nnitric and sulphuric acids and rinse quickly.\nAfter this treatment it is sometimes dipped for\na moment in dilute aqueous mercurous nitrate\nsolution and rinsed rgain. This has the effect\nof coating the clean metal with a film of mer-\ncury, which secures a perfect adhesion of the\ndeposited silver.\nSilver Deposits.\nFor electro-silver plating the double salt of\nsilver and potassium cyanide is almost univer-\nsally employed. The baths are used either hot\nor cold. The latter method is generally adopt-\ned for articles which require great solidity.\nThe hot process is used for small articles, and\nis preferable for steel, iron, zinc, lead and tin,\nwhich have been previously electro-coppered.\nThe hot baths are generally kept in enameled\ncast iron kettles, and the articles are either\nsuspended or moved constantly about in them.\nA somewhat energetic current is needed, espe-\ncially when the articles are moved about in\norder to operate l apidly. A gray or black de-\nposit indicates too strong a current, and when\nthe surface becomes covered with bubbles of\ngas the same thing is indicated. The anodes\nare plates of silver or heavy silver foil. The\nwooden tanks for the cold baths are similar to\nthose used in plating with copper and nickel,\nbut should be very thoroughly coated on the\ninside with gutta percha.\nThe Bath.\nWater (soft) 1 gal.\nCyanide of potassium (pure) .8 oz.\nNitrate of silver 5*4\nDissolve the nitrate of silver in a sufficient\nquantity of pure water (soft), and add to it\ngradually, with constant stirring, hydrocyanic\n(prussic) acid until all the silver has been pre-\ncipitated as cyanide, which may be known by\nthe formation of no cloud in a portion of the\nclear liquid when a drop of the acid is added to it.\nAvoid adding an excess of the acid. Throw the\nprecipitate upon a fine cotton cloth filter, and\nas the liquid runs through wash the precipitate\non the cloth several times with pure water.\nDissolve the cyanide of potassium in the watei\\\nand stir in the cyanide of silver carefully re-\nmoved from the cloth. If it does not dissolve\nin the liquid entirely, add more cyanide ot\npotassium until it does, stirring continually-\nLet the impurities settle, and the bath is ready\nfor use. Many electroplaters use a preliminary\nor silver whitening bath, which is the same\ncomposition, but contains less silver, more\ncyanide, and is worked with a somewhat\nstronger current.\nThe cleaned article in some cases is first\ndipped for a few moments in a solution of\nnitrate of mercury, 1 oz. in 1 gal. of water, and\nthen in the whitening bath for a few minutes,\nand after brushing is transferred to the silver\nbath proper.\nThe vessels containing the cold bath are suf-\nficiently high to allow about 4 in. of liquid\nabove the immersed objects, whose distance\nfrom the bottom and sides should be nearly the\nsame to give a regular deposit of metal at both\nends of the object.\nThe upper ledge of the trough carries two\nbrass rods all around, which do not touch one\nanother, one above the other, so that other\nmetallic rods placed transversely will rest upon\nthe higher or lower series of rods only. The\nupper rods are connected with the zinc, the\nlower with the carbon or copper end of the\nbattery, or with the corresponding poles of\nthe dynamo-electric machine. The transverse\nrods resting upon the lower set support the\nsilver anodes; those resting on the upper set,\nthe work. The work suspended from an upper\ntranverse is placed so as to face two anodes\nsuspended from two lower transverse rods.\nAs the lower layers of the bath are apt to be-\ncome denser (richer) than the upper, it is often\nnecessary to reverse the articles during the\noperation to obtain a perfectly uniform thick-\nness of deposit. For the same purpose small\narticles should be kept in motion as much as\npossible.\nThe deposit is finer and denser if obtained\nwith a weak battery and long exposure than if\na strong current is employed. A sufficient\nquantity of silver may be deposited in three or\nfour hours, but it will be of much finer quality\nand more easily burnished if the work is left in\nthe bath for twelve or fifteen hours with a few\ncells of battery.\nWhen the articles, especially coppered iron,\netc., have acquired a coherent film of silver,\nthey are sometimes removed from the bath, and\nthoroughly scratch-brushed,cleansed in alcohol,\nor preferably in a hot silvering bath, thence\nagain passed through the mercurial solution\nand finished in the cold plating bath.\nThe first scratch-brushing, which is not al-\nways necessary, obviates the tendency of cer-\ntain alloys to assume a crystalline apppearance\nand corrects the imperfections of the cleansing\nin process.\nShould the anodes become black during the\npassage of the current, the solution contains\ntoo little cyanide. In this the deposit is adher-\nent, but too slow and the bath loses more\nsilver than it can gain from the anodes.\nIf the anodes remain white during the pas-\nsage of the current, the bath contains an excess\nof cyanide, and the deposit does not properly\nadhere; correct by adding cyanide of silver\nuntil it dissolves with difficulty.\nWhen in good working order, the anodes pre-\nsent a gray appearance while the current is\npassing, becoming white when circuit is broken.\nThe specific gravity of the bath may vary\nfrom 5° to 15° Baume s hydrometer aod still\nfurnish good results.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0207.jp2"},"206":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n194\nElements.\nElectro-silvering baths do not generally work\nso well when freshly prepared. If properly\nused and cared for, they improve by age. At\nfirst the deposit is often granulated bluish or\nyellowish.\nIt is customary to mix portions of an old bath\nwith a freshly prepared- one. Some platers in-\ntroduce small quantities of ammonia instead\nto age the liquid.\nBisulphide of carbon in small quantities im-\nparts a bright luster to plated articles. 1 oz.\nof the bisulphide is put into a pint bottle filled\nwith a strong solution of the cyanide of potas-\nsium and silver, briskly shaken, and a few drops\nof this liquid poured into the bath occasionally\nuntil the work appears sufficiently bright. An\nexcess of bisulphide must, however, be avoided,\nas it will spoil the bath.\nWhat has been said about the arrangement of\nbattery in articles of nickel and brass plating\nwill also apply here.\nTin. 1. Deposition of Tin by Simple Im-\nmersion or Dipping. For this purpose a\nsaturated solution of cream of tartar is\nmade with boiling water; in this solution\nsmall brass or copper articles, such as\nbrass pins for example, are placed between\nsheets of grain tin and the liquid is boiled until\nthe desired result is obtained— a beautifully\nwhite coating of tin upon the brass or copper\nsurfaces. Ordinary brass pins are coated in this\nway. A little chloride of tin may be added to\nthe bath to facilitate the whitening. The arti-\ncles are afterward washed in clean water and\nbrightened by being shaken in a leathern bag\nwith bran. See Tinning.\n2. Distilled water 200 parts by weight.\nPyrophosphate of soda. 2\nFused chloride of tin... 200\nDissolve the soda salt first, and then gradually\nintroduce the tin salt.\nWastes, Electro Plating Solutions, to Recover\nfrom. Gold solutions, usually cyanides, are\nboiled in a porcelain dish, sodic stannate added,\nand the boiling continued until all the gold has\ncombined with the tin, forming a black pre-\ncipitate. This precipitate is washed with water\nand dissolved in aqua regia. Tne solution of\nauric and stannic chlorides is carefully evapor-\nated, diluted with distilled water, enough sodio-\npotassic tartrate added and warmed, when all\nthe gold will be precipited as a brownish yellow\npowder. For silver solutions it is only neces-\nsary to boil with sodic stannate.— Prof. Boettger.\nZinc, Electro-deposition of .—For the electro-\ndeposition of zinc solutions of the sulphate, am-\nmonia sulphate, chloride and ammonia chloride\nmay be employed, as also alkaline solutions,\nprepared by dissolving zinc oxide or carbonate\nin a solution of cyanide of potassium or caustic\npotassium; the deposit from either of these al-\nkaline solutions is generally of very good qaul-\nity, and if too strong a current be not employed\nthe deposited metal is usually very tough.\nPerson Sires Solution for Electro-deposi-\ntion of Zinc— This consists of a mixture of 1\npart of oxide of zinc dissolved in 100 parts of\nwater, in which 10 parts of alum have been pre-\nviously dissolved at the ordinary temperature.\nThe current from a single battery cell is em-\nployed, and the anode surface should be about\nequal to that of the articles to be coated.\nElectro-typing.— Electrotyping comprises\na series of mechanical or electrical means for\nreproducing engravings or typographical com-\npositions.\nThe reproductions are called electros and\nelectrotypes. In order to produce an electro\nthe original must be moulded and the mould\ncoated with a galvanic deposition; a fusible\nmetal is then run at the back of this deposition\nso ^as to strengthen it, and the plate thus ob-\ntained s mounted on a piece of wood of a\ndetermined thickness.\nMoulds.— The first operation naturally con-\nsists in taking the impress of the engraving to\nbe duplicated. Gutta percha, or impermeable\nplaster, or one of the following mixtures may\nbe used for the purpose\n1. Whitewax 200 grm.\nSpermaceti 30\nStearine 250\nPlumbic carbonate 30\n2. Glue 400\nMolasses 100\nThis mixture gives some elasticity to the\nmould.\n3. Bismuth 250 grm.\nLead 160\nTin 125\nAntimony 30\nMix, and melt in a clean crucible.\n4. Bismuth 280 grm.\nLead 190\nTin 100\nIn order to obtain a good result from the last\ntwo formulae the metals are first melted and\npoured in a vessel containing cold water and a\nsmall quantity of straw and hay cut in lengths\nof about 3 in. The whole is thoroughly stirred\nwhile the molten metal is being poured. This\ndivides the metal into shots, which are dried\nand melted again.\n5. Gelatine .....500 grm.\nWater 700\nWax 15\nThe gelatine is dissolved in water on a gentle\nfire and some beeswax in small pieces is added.\nThis mixture must be used tepid and not hot.\n6. Beeswax 9 kilo.\nVenetian turpentine 1 35\nPlumbago in an impalpable\nstate.... 0*225\nCare must be taken to avoid any dust. If\nduring the cold weather any crack occurs a lit-\ntle Venetian turpentine is added. When the\ntemperature is sufficiently high turpentine can\nbe dispensed with altogether.\nElectrum. See Alloys.\nElectuaries.— These are combinations of\nsirup or honey and vegetable substances. They\nare of a fair consistency, being neither liquid\nnor solid. These are made for the purpose of\nhiding the taste of disagreeable medicines,\nwhich are taken in the electuaries.\nElements.— Table showing the grouping of\nthe elements:\nOxygen. Chlorine. Nitrogen. Chromium.\nSulphur. Bromine. Phosphorus. Vanadium.\nSelenium. Iodine. Arsenic. Molybdenum.\nTellurium. Fluorine. Antimony. Tungsten.\nSilicon. Barium. Cerium. Iron.\nTitanium. Strontium. Lanthanum. Cobalt.\nTantalum. Calcium. Didymium, Nickel.\nNiobium. Magnesium. Manganese.\nCadmium. Potassium. Platinum.\nZinc. Sodium. Palladium.\nLithium. Rhodium.\nCaesium. Iridium.\nRubidium. Ruthenium.\nOsmium.\nThe wood cut is covered /with plumbago and\nforced into the wax by hydraulic pressure.\nThe mould is covered with very finely pow-\ndered plumbago and immersed in a bath com-\nposed of a nearly saturated solution of cupric\nsulphate with 120 grn. sulphuric acid -for each\n10 1. of liquid. A thin coat of copper is thus\ndeposited upon the mould. The current is\nusually produced by dynamos. The shell is\nbacked with type metal, and afterward planed\nand routed.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0208.jp2"},"207":{"fulltext":"Elements.\n195\nEmbalming.\nElements, Table of tlie Symbols,\nAtomicity, Atomic and Equiva-\nlent Weights of the.\nis\n•!h S\nAluminum (Al 2\nAntimony (Sb\nArsenicum (As\nBarium\nBeryllium or glucinum.\nBismuth (Br\nBoron\nBromine\nCadmium\nCaesium.\nCalcium\nCarbon (C\nCerium (Ce\nChlorine\nChromium (Crv\nCobalt (Co\nCopper\nDavyum.\nDecipium\nDidymium\nErbium\nFluorine\nGallium\nGold\nHydrogen\nIndium\nIodine\nIridium\nIron (Fe Fe 2\nLanthanium\nLavcesium\nLead(Pb\nLithium\nMagnesium\nManganese (Mn Mn iv\nMercury\nMolybdenum\nMosandeum\nNephmium\nNickel (Ni\nNiobium\nNitrogen (N N\nNorwegium\nOsmium\nOxygen\nPalladium\nPhillipium\nPhosphorus P\nPlatinum\nPotassium (Kalium)\nBhodium\nBubidium\nButhenium\nScandium\nSelenium\nSilicon (Silicium)\nSilver\nSodium (Natrium)\nStrontium\nSulphur (S Siv)\nTantalum\nTellurium\nTerbium\nThallium\nThorinum (Thorium)\nTin(Sn\nTitanium\nTungsten\n-ij\na4\n,d\nbo\nc3\nn\n£.2\no\na\n02+=\nAl*\n275\nSb*\n122\nAs v\n75\nBa\n137\nBe\n9-5\nBr*\n208\nB\n11\nBr\n80\nCd\n112\nCs\n133\nCa\n40\nCiv\n12\nCe Ti\n92\nCi\n355\nCr Ti\n52-5\nCo*\n58 8\nCu\n63-5\nD\n96\nEb\n112-6\np/\n19\nAu\n196-7\nH\n1\nIn**\n75-6\nI\n127\nIriy\n107\nFe Ti\n56\nLa\n92\nPb*_,\n207\nL\n7\nMg\n24\nMn™\n55\nHg\n200\nMo vi\n96\nNi*\n58*8\nNb*\n97-6\nN*\n14\n0s iv\n199\n0\n16\nPdiv\n106*5\nP*\n31\nPt*\n198\nK\n39\nBh*\n104 3\nBb\n85-3\nBu\n104 2\nSe**\n79-5\nSi*\n28\nAg\n108\nNa\n23\nSr\n87-5\nS\n32\nTa*\n182\nTeri\n129\nTl\n204\nTh\n232\nSn*\n118\nTiW\n50\nW* 1\n184\n49*75\n80\n53*25\n10-33\n98-7\n49 35\n391\n522\n85-4\n26-0\n2040\n57-87\n59\n29-5\n125\n46-0\nElements.— Continued.\n4^\nn\nbo\nd\nc3 c3\nD\nS+2\nn\n-d-d\nbo\n£.2\nO\na\nd:\n02\no\nm\nTJralium\nu*\n120\n51*3\n60*0\n17 1\nY\nZn\nZr iT\n61 7\n65\n89-5\n30 85\nZinc\n32 6\n224\nAm. Annual of Photography.\nElemi.— The elemi of commerce is of a pale\nyellow color, exteriorly brittle, but soft and\ntough within it has a warm, bitter taste and a\nfragrant aromatic smell, partaking of fennel\nand juniper. It is only partially transparent,\neven in thin plates, is very fusible and has a\ndensity a little greater than that of water.\nAccording to Bonastre, it consists of 84$ of\nresin, 12-15$ of a fragrant essential oil and a\nlittle bitter extractive. In medicine it is only\nemployed in the preparation of the elemi oint-\nment of the Pharmacopoeia.\nEliquation.— Separation of lead and silver\nfrom copper. A process formerly used for the\nseparation of silver from copper by means of\nlead. The three metals were melted together,\ncast into disks and suddenly cooled. By expos-\ning these disks to a red heat the lead melted and\nseparated or liquated from the copper, carrying\nthe greater portion of the silver with it, the\ncopper remaining in a spongy mass having the\nform of the original disk.\nElixir of Monobromated Camphor.\nMonobromated camphor, 3 parts alcohol, 90$,\n120 parts; orange flower water, 80 parts; gly-\ncerine, 100 parts; mix alcohol and glycerine;\ndissolve the monobromated camphor by use of\nheat, add the orange flower water. This solu-\ntion contains 1% of monobromated camphor.\nElutriation.— Cleansing by washing and at\nthe same time separating the substance (an in-\nsoluble powder) into diif erent degrees of fine-\nness. The coarse powder settles first, then the\nsupernatant liquor is decanted and the sedi-\nment drained and dried. It is of the greatest\nuse in the mechanic arts, and the process is so\nsimple that it can be performed by any one.\nEmbalmi ng. Wicker •sheimer s Preserving\nFluid.— According to the Boston Journal of\nChemistry, the following is said to be the for-\nmulae now adopted by prominent manufac-\nturers in Berlin for this liquid, according as it\nis to be used for injecting or immersing bodies.\nSodium chloride\nFor in-\njecting.\n16 grm.\n80 grm.\n200 grm.\n25 grm.\n10 grm.\n20 lit.\n4 lit.\nFor im-\nmersing.\n12 grm.\n60 grm.\nPotassium sulphate\n150 grm.\nPotassium nitrate\n18 grm.\nPotassium carbonate\n15 grm.\nWater\n10 lit.\nGlvcerine\n4 lit.\nWood naphtha\n%lit.\nHager suggests the following as a substitute\nfor Wickersheimer s preparation\nSalicylic acid 4 drm.\nBoracic acid 5 drm.\nPotassium carbonate 1 drm.\nDissolved in hot water 12^ oz.\nGlycerine 5 oz.\nThen add—\nOil cinnamon, oil cloves, each 3\ndrm., dissolved in alcohol 12^ oz.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0209.jp2"},"208":{"fulltext":"Embossing,\n196\nEmulsions.\nThe latter fluid is not poisonous, and pos-\nsesses the desirable property of acting as an\nantiseptic, and also as a preventive and exter-\nminator of moths and vermin, and is possessed\nof a pleasant odor. The borosalicylate may be\nused in connection with other solvents if de-\nsired.\nSee also Dead, Preservation of.\nEmbossing and Gilding Glass. See\nGlass.\nEmbrocation.— A fluid medicine for ex-\nternal and local use. Embrocations do not\ndiffer materially from liniments and lotions,\nand are applied in the same manner.\nEmery .—Emery Belts.— Take emery or sbarp\nsand, spread it out on an iron plate heated to\nabout 200° F. Apply to your straps or belts a\nrather thin coating of strong glue, then press\nit upon the heated emery or sand. Either\nleather or cotton webbing may be used for the\nbelt.\nEmery, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nEmery Cloth.— Apply a coating of thin glue\nand sift the powder on through a sieve. Have\nthe emery sifted according to the fineness.\nEmery Blocks.— These are prepared only on a\nscale which is beyond the amateur, but an ex-\ncellent emery cake can be made by mixing\nemery powder with wax.\nEmery to Fasten to Leather.— To fasten emery\nto leather, boil glue very thin, add a little milk,\nraise the pile of the leather and put on the glue\nwith the brush. Then sprinkle on the emery\nand let it cool.\nEmery Paper. See Paper.\nEmery Paste.— Mix the finest emery obtain-\nable with a little suet.\nEmery, Preparation of, for Optical Purposes.—\nMix 4 lb. of flour emery with 1 oz. of powdered\ngum arabic, then throw the powder into 2 gal.\nof clean water. Collect the deposits at the end\nof ten, twenty, thirty seconds, etc., to sixty\nminutes. Use in the order of time in which they\nwere precipitated, using the longest last.\nEmery Strap. The emery strap is made by\nbrushing good strong glue upon the leather and\nquickly sprinkling the surface with flour of\nemery when dry, the loose emery is brushed\noff. Crocus is mixed with a little oil and\nrubbed into the leather. Smooth on piece of\nglass.\nEmery Wheels and Sticks.— Turn wheels from\nwell seasoned pine, of the form desired place\nemery upon an iron plate heated to 200° to 212°;\ncoat the wheels with glue prepared as for unit-\ning wood, and roll the wheels in the warm\nemery. After the glue dries, the surplus emery\nbrushed off and another coating of glue is ap-\nplied and the wheels are again rolled in the\nwarm emery. The wheels should be allowed to\nbecome thoroughly dry before use. Prepare\nsticks of such forms as you may require, and\ncoat them as directed for emery wheels, or\nattach to them paper by means of glue or\npaste.\nTo Make Emery Wheels.— Turn a wheel of\npine, coat the wheel with good glue and roll it\nin emery which has been heated on an iron\nplate to 200° F. As one coat will not last long,\nseveral should be given.\nEmery Wheels, to Remove Gloss of.— There are\ntools sold by the dealers in emery wheels that\nbreak up the surface or true it, when glossy or\nout of true. Hydrochloric or nitric acid will\nclean a metalized wheel. Swab the surface with\nthe acid, let it lie fifteen to twenty seconds, and\nquickly wash the surface clean with water and\ndry.\nEmery Wheels, to True.— Hold a piece of white\nchalk against the wheel while in motion. This\nwill show you the high places. Then take a\npick of the kind used to dress millstones, or\nmake one of a file about five inches long,\nwedged in a stick like a miller s pick. Hack\nthe chalked places and keep chalking and hack-\ning, rubbing over with an old file each i lme\nbefore chalking, until the wheels true and the\nchalk touches all around.\nEmery Wire.— Oil the wire and sprinkle emery\nover it.\nEmetics.— Medicines which induce vomit-\ning. The principal emetics are ipecacuanha,\nand tartarized antimony and their prepara-\ntions; and the sulphates of zinc and copper.\nA wine glass of warm water, a teaspoonf ul of\nsalt, and a quarter wine glassful mustard.\nEmulsion Photographic. See Pho-\ntography.\nEmulsions. See Cosmetics.\nEmulsions.— These are milky liquids,\nformed by the mechanical admixture of oil,\nbalsam, or resin, with water, by means of some\nother intervening medium, generally saccha-\nrine or mucilaginous, and to emulsify an oil\nconsists in rendering it capable of mixing with\nwater to form a uniform milky fluid— by means\nof such aid. The common name of emulsions\nis milk; but the term is often incorrectly\nextended to opaque white liquids of an entire-\nly distinct character.\nThe successful formation of emulsions, whether\nof fixed or volatile oils, is dependent upon cer-\ntain rules, well understood by accomplished\npharmacists, which, when deviated from, will\ninvariably embarrass the operator, either by\nretarding or completely preventing perfect\nemulsiflcation. These rules are\n1. That the water and gum arabic shall be in\ndefinite and absolute proportion to each other.\nThis proportion is 3 parts of water to 2 parts\nof gum, both by weight.\n2. That the relation of oil to gum (and water)\nshall be definite within certain limits; that i^\nto say, the mucilage formed in the above pr\nportions is capable of perfectly emulsifying\nminimum and a maximum proportion of oil.\nThe minimum proportion is 2 parts of oil to 1\npart of gum; the maximum proportion is 4r\nparts of oil to 1 part of gum.\n3. That the trituration of the oil, gum, and\nwater be continued until a perfectly homoge-\nneous, milky white, thick creamy mixture is\nformed— i. e., until perfect emulsiflcation takes\nplace— before the addition of a further quantity\nof water or other liquid.\nThe thick creamy emulsion obtained, if the\nabove conditions are fulfilled, must be the\nbasis of all perfect emulsions. It will bear di-\nlution to any extent with water, forming mix-\ntures varying, according to the proportion\nadded, from the appearance and consistence of\ncream to that of very thin milk. Obviously\nthe water may be substituted by solutions of\nsaline compounds, sirups, etc., and this enables\nthe production of the various combinations of\ncodliver oil in current use from the above\nthick creamy emulsion, which for distinction I\nshall designate as—\n1. Concentrated Emulsion of Codliver Oil.—\nTake of fresh Norwegian codliver oil, 8 troy\noz.; powdered gum arabic, 2 troy oz.; distilled\nwater, 3 troy oz. First weigh the gum into a\nWedgwood or porcelain mortar, then the oil,\nand triturate till the gum is well mixed with\nthe oil; then weigh into the mixture the dis-\ntilled water, and triturate the whole briskly\nuntil the mixture thickens and acquires a pasty-\nconsistence and milky whjteness. Now scrape\ndown the portions adhering to the sides of the\nmortar and the pestle, and continue the tritu-\nration for a short time, after which add such\nother ingredients as may be desirable, or trans-\nfer the concentrated emulsion to a wide-\nmouthed bottle for future use.\nThis concentrated emulsion will keep for a\nreasonable time in cold weather, and, if placed\nin the ice-chest, also during warm weather. It\nmay, therefore, be kept in stock if the demand\nfor emulsions is brisk enough to justify it; but","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0210.jp2"},"209":{"fulltext":"Emulsions.\n197\nEnamels.\ninasmuch as its preparation does not consume\nmore than five or ten minutes, it is advised to\nalways prepare it fresh, or, at all events, never\nto prepare more than a week s supply, parti-\ncularly in summer. Its consistence is such\nthat it is poured out of the containing- vessel\nwith difficulty; hence the necessity of using\none with a wide mouth, which should be as se-\ncurely stoppered as possible, and should be\ncleaned very carefully each time it is refilled.\nAll this takes time and involves trouble, which\nis prevented by preparing the concentrated\nemulsion only as required.\n2. Simple Emulsion of Codliver Oil.— Take of\nconcentrated emulsion of codliver oil, 13 troy\noz.; oil of wintergreen, 24 drops; sirup, 1 tl. oz.;\nwater, 3 fl. oz. Weigh the concentrated emul-\nsion into a mortar, add the oil of wintergreen,\nand triturate thoroughly, then gradually add\nfirst the water and then the sirup.\nThe manipulation for this emulsion is typi-\ncal for all the other codliver emulsions given\nbelow. It has the consistence of very thick\ncream, but is readily poured out of narrow\nmouthed bottles, is milky white, and mixes\nreadily with water or other liquids, that may\nbe administered with it. It contains exactly\n■50% (by volume) of oil, the quantity that manu-\nfactured emulsions are said to contain, although\nwe are now convinced that some of them do\nnot contain that proportion. The oil of winter-\ngreen disguises the odor of the codliver oil very\nadmirably, and has the further advantage that\nit acts as a preservative.\n3. Emulsion of Codliver Oil with Hypophos-\nphite of Lime.— This differs from the simple\nemulsion in that 128 grn. hypophosphite of cal-\ncium are dissolved in the water, each table-\nspoonful of the finished emulsion containing 4\ngrn. of that salt.\n4. Emulsion of Codliver Oil With Hypophos-\nphites of Lime and Soda.— This differs from the\nsimple emulsion in that 128 grn. hypophosphite\nof calcium and 96 grn. hypophosphite of sodium\nare dissolved in the water, each tablespoonful\nof the finished emulsion containing 4 grn. of the\ncalcium and 3 grn. of the sodium salt.\n5. Emulsion of Codliver Oil with Hypophos-\nphites.— This differs from the simple emulsion\nin that 128 grn. hypophosphite of calcium, 96\n.grn. hypophosphite of sodium, and 64 grn.\nhypophosphite of potassium, are dissolved in\nthe water each tablespoonful containing 4 grn.\nof the calcium, 3 grn. of the sodium, and 2 grn.\nof the potassium salt, and corresponding to a\nteaspoonful of Churchill s sirup of the hypo-\nphosphites.\n6. Emulsion of Codliver Oil with Phosphate\nof Lime.— This differs from the simple emulsion\nin that 256 grn. phosphate of calcium are dis-\ndissolved in the water by the aid of 128 grn hy-\ndrochloric acid each tablespoonful containing\n8 grn. of the phosphate held in a pleasantly\nacid solution.\n7. Emulsion of Codliver Oil with Phosphate\nof Lime and Soda. This differs from the simple\nemulsion in that 256 grn. phosphate of calcium\nand 64 grn. phosphate of sodium are dissolved\nin the water, acidulated with 128 grn. hydro-\nchloric acid, each tablespoonful containing 8\ngrn. of the calcium and 2 grn. of the sodium\nsalt.\n8. Emulsion of Codliver Oil with Lactophos-\nphate of Lime.— This differs from the simple\nemulsion in that 256 grn. lactate of calcium\ndissolved in 2 fl. oz. of diluted phosphoric acid\nare substituted for 2 fl. oz. of the water, each\ntablespoonful containing 8 grn. lactate of lime\nor about 10 grn. lactophosphate.\n9. Emulsion of Codliver Oil With wild Cherry\nBark.— This differs from the simple emulsion in\nthat the oil of wintergreen is substituted by 8\ndrops oil of bitter almonds, and in that 1 fl. oz.\nof the fluid extract of wild cherry bark is sub-\nstituted for 1 fl. oz. of the water, each table-\nspoonful containing 15 minims of the fluid ex-\ntract and J 4 drop oil of bitter almonds.\nOther combinations of codliver oil with differ-\nent medicinal agents may be effected in the same\nway as pointed out in the above, or the propor-\ntions of salts may be varied to suit particular\ncases. The process for the concentrated emul-\nsion also may be applied to the emulsification of\nother oils; as, for instance, in the following:\n10. Emulsion of Castor Oil.— Take of castor\noil, 4 troy oz.; powdered gum arabic, 1 troy oz.;\ndistilled water, li^ troy oz.; sirup, cinnamon\nwater, of each 3 fl. oz.; spirit of cinnamon, 12\nminims. Emulsify the oil with the gum and\ndistilled water as directed under 1, then add\nthe other ingredients successively with con-\nstant trituration. The emulsion contains 33$\nof castor oil, and is consequently more limpid\nthan the 50$ codliyer oil emulsions above de-\nscribed, and is in every respect an elegant\npreparation.— Louisville Med. News.\nEmulsions, to Prepare.— Emulsions, or mix-\ntures (Misturce. U. S. P.), are milky liquids,\nformed by the mechanical admixture of oily or\nresinous substances with watery fluids, by the\nintervention of gum arabic, the yelk of an egg\nor some other substance that has the property\nof combining with both. A drachm of thick\nmucilage, made with equal parts of gum arabic\nand water (the powdered gum is sometimes\nused instead of the mucilage), or the yelk of an\nordinary-sized egg, will form 2 drm. of oil or\nresinous matter into an emulsion with about 1\nfl. oz. of water gradually added. As emulsions\nmade with yelk of egg will not generally keep\nlong, mucilage is usually employed. Oils, as a\nrule, require about three-fourths of their\nweight balsam about equal parts and resins\nabout twice their weight.\nIt is found that volatile oils are more readily\nmade into emulsions if mixed with an equal\nvolume of some simple fixed oil, as that of the\nalmond or olive, before proceeding to operate\non them. All emulsions should be well shaken\nbefore use.\nEmulsions, a New Patent (A. Blackie, No.\n3iU66. 1886.).— This invention is described as im-\nprovements in the preparation of emulsions of\nvegetable, animal, and mineral oils of solid\nparaffins, waxes, and fatty substances and of\nliquids which are insoluble, or but partially or\nslightly soluble, in water. A solution of gela-\ntine or other similar substance is made, in the\nproportion of 4 oz. to the gal. of water. In 12\nparts of this 1 part of phosphate of soda or\npotash, or carbonate of soda or potash, is dis-\nsolved by the aid of heat, and this mixture is\ncapable, by the ordinary means, of emulsifying\nfrom 24 to 36 parts of animal or vegetable oils.\nFor embrocations ammonia is substituted for\nthe above-named salts. Chloroform and such\nliquids may be emulsified in the above manner.\nFor mineral oils and the like the alkali is re-\nplaced by soft soap. For example, an emulsi-\nfying solution is made with 6 oz. of concentra-\nted size, 1 lb. of soft soap, and 1 gal. of water,\nand this mixture is capable of emulsifying 2gal.\nof paraffin oil. Either of the solutions named\nis applicable for preparing leather dressing,\nsheep washes, and the like, and for the latter\npurpose the inventor claims the addition of al-\nkaline sulphides, sulphur, arsenic, and other\nsubstances.— Chemist and Druggist.\nEnamels. Emaux, Fr. Schmelzglas, Ger.\n—Transparent or opaque substances, usually\nformed of glass colored with metallic oxides\nand applied in a thin stratum to brightly pol-\nished metallic surfaces (copper or gold), on\nwhich they are fused by the flame of a lamp\nurged by the blowpipe, or by the heat of a\nsmall furnace, and in cooling foi m a sort of\nvitreous varnish. The art of enameling ac-\nquired the greatest perfection in ancient times,\nand very beautiful specimens are still preserved\nwhich the moderns are unable to equal, and\nwith the materials of which they are totally\nunacquainted. At the present day this pleas-\ning and useful application of human industry-\nis carried on with the greatest success by the","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0211.jp2"},"210":{"fulltext":"Enamels.\n198\nEnamels.\nVenetians and, after them, by the French. The\nlimits of this work will not permit a descrip-\ntion of the various operations of enameling,\nwhich essentially depend on skillful manipula-\ntion; a knowledge of which can only be ob-\ntained by long practice.\nThe basis of all enamels is a highly transpar-\nent and fusible glass, which readily receives a\ncolor on the addition of metallic oxides. As\nthis is required in the preparation of many of\nthose that follow, it is placed first.\nBase or Flux for.—l. Red lead, 16 parts cal-\ncined borax, 3 parts powdered flint glass, 12\nparts powdered flints, 4 parts fuse in a Hes-\nsian crucible for twelve hours, then pour it\nout into water and reduce it to a powder in a\nbiscuitware mortar.— Wynn, Trans. Soc. Arts,\n1817.\n2. Powdered flints, 10 parts niter and white\narsenic, of each 1 part as last. Wynn.\n3. Flint glass, 3 oz.; red lead, 1 oz.; as last.—\nWynn.\n4. Ked lead, 18 parts borax (not calcined), 11\nparts; flint glass, 16 parts; as last.— Wynn.\n5. Flint glass, 6 parts; flux No. 2 (above), 4\nparts; red lead, 8 parts as last.— Wynn.\n6. Tin 2 to 5 parts lead, 10 parts calcine in\nan iron pot at a dull cherry red heat and scrape\noff the oxide as it forms, observing to obtain it\nquite free from undecomposed metal. When\nenough of the dross is obtained, reduce it to\nfine powder by grinding and elutriation, then\nmix 4 parts of this powder with an equal weight\nof pure sand or powdered flints and 1 part sea\nsalt, or other alkaline matter fuse the mix-\nture in a Hessian crucible and proceed as be-\nfore. The best proportions of the tin and lead,\nfor all ordinary purposes, are about 3 of the\nformer to 10 of the latter. The calcined mixed\noxides are commonly called calcine.\n7. Lead and tin, equal parts; calcine as\nabove, and take of the mixed oxides, or calcine\nand ground flints, of each 1 part pure subcar-\nbonate of potash, 2 parts as before.— Chaptal.\n8. Lead, 30 parts tin, 33 parts calcine as be-\nfore, then mix 50 parts of the calcine with an\nequal weight of flints, in powder, and 1 lb. of\nsalts of tartar as before. A fine dead white\nenamel.— JVeri. Kunckel.\nThe precise qualities of the products of the\nabove processes depend greatly upon the dura-\ntion and degree of the heat employed. By in-\ncreasing the quantity of sand, glass or flux, the\nenamel is rendered more fusible, and the\nopacity and whiteness is increased by the ad-\ndition of oxide of tin. The use of borax should\nbe avoided or used very sparingly, as it is apt\n\\o make the enamel effloresce and lose color.—\nTllloch.\nBlack.— 1. Pure clay, 3 parts; protoxide of\niron, 1 part; mix and fuse. A fine black.—\n{Jlouet.\n2. Calcined iron (protoxide), 12 parts oxide\nof cobalt, 1 part mix and add an equal weight\nof white flux.\n3. Peroxide of manganese, 3 parts zaffre*, 1\npart mix and add it as required to white flux.\nBlue.— 1. Either of the fluxes colored with\noxide of cobalt.\n2. Sand, red lead and niter, of each, 10 parts\nflint glass or ground flints, 20 parts oxide of\ncobalt, 1 part, more or less, the quantity wholly\ndepending on the depth of color required.\nBrown.— 1. Manganese, 5 parts; red lead, 16\nparts flint powder, 8 parts mix.\n2. Manganese, 9 parts red lead, 34 parts flint\npowder, 16 parts.— Wynn.\nGreen.— -1. Flux, 2 lb.; black oxide of copper,\n1 oz.; red oxide of iron, y% drm.; mix.\n2. As above, but use the red oxide of copper.\nLess decisive.\n3. Copper dust and litharge, of each, 2 oz.;\nniter, 1 oz.; sand, 4 oz.; flux, as much as re-\nquired.\n4. Add oxide of chrome to a sufficient quan-\ntity of flux to produce the desired shade.\nWhen well managed the color is superb and\nwill stand a very great heat but in common\nhands it frequently turns on the dead-leaf\ntinge.\n5. Transparent flux, 5 oz.; black oxide of cop-\nper, 2 scruples oxide of chrome, 2 grn. Re-\nsembles the emerald.\n6. Mix blue and yellow enamel in the required\nproportions.\nOlive.— Good blue enamel, 2 parts black and\nyellow enamel, of each 1 part mix. (See also\nBrown Enamels.)\nOrange.— 1. Red lead, 12 parts red sulphate of\niron and oxide of antimony, of each 1 part;\nflint powder, 3 parts; calcine, powder and melt\nwith flux, 50 parts.\n2. Red lead, 12 parts; oxide of antimony, 4\nparts; flint powder, 3 parts; red sulphate of\niron, 1 part calcine, then add flux, 5 parts to\nevery 2 parts of this mixture.— Wynn.\nPurple.— 1. Flux colored with oxide of gold,\npurple precipitate of cassius, or peroxide of\nmanganese.\n2. Sulphur, niter, vitriol, antimony and oxide\nof tin, of each 1 lb. red lead, 60 lb. mix and\nfuse, cool and powder, add rose copper, 19 oz.\nzaffre, 1 oz.; crocus martis, V/% oz^ borax, 3 oz.;\nand 1 lb. of a compound formed of gold, silver,\nand mercury; fuse, stirring the melted mass\nwith a copper rod all the time, then place it in\ncrucibles, and submit them to the action of a\nreveberatory furnace for twenty-four hours.—\nPhil. Mag.\nThis is said to be the purple enamel used in\nthe mosaic pictures of St. Peter s at Rome.\nBed.—l. Sulphate of iron (calcined dark), 1\npart a mixture of 6 parts of flux (4) and 1 of\ncolcothar, 3 parts dark red. Wynn.\n2. Red sulphate of iron, 2 parts flux (No. 1.),\n6 parts; white lead, 3 parts; light red.— Wynn.\n3. Paste or flux colored with the red or pro-\ntoxide of copper. Should the color pass into\nthe green or brown, from the partial peroxid-\nizement of the copper, from the heat being\nraised too high the red color may be restored\nby the addition of any carbonaceous matter, as\ntallow, or charcoal.\n4. The most beautiful and costly red, inclining\nto the purple tinge, is produced by tinging\nglass or flux with the oxide or salts of gold, or\nwith the purple precipitate of cassius, which\nconsists of gold and tin. In the hands of the\nskillful artist, any of these substances produce\nshades of red of the most exquisite hue; when\nmost perfect, the enamel comes from the fire\nquite colorless, and afterward receives its rich\nhue from the flame of a candle or lamp, urged\nby the blow-pipe.\nRose-colored.— Purple enamel, or its elements,\n3 parts; flux, 90 parts; mix and add silver leaf,\nor oxide of silver, 1 part or less.\nTransparent.— Either of the fluxes, except the\nlast three. (See also Pastes.)\nViolet.— Saline or alkaline frits or fluxes col-\nored with small quantities of peroxide of man-\nganese. As the color depends on the metal\nbeing at the maximum of oxidation, contact\nwith all substances that would abstract any of\nits oxygen should be avoided. The same re-\nmarks apply to other metallic oxides.\nYellow.— 1. Red lead, 8 oz.; oxide of antimony\nand tin, calcined together, of each 1 oz. mix\nand add flux (No. 4) 15 oz. mix and fuse.—\nWynn. By varying the proportion of the in-\ngredients various shades may be produced.\n2. Lead, tin ashes, litharge, antimony and\nsand, of each 1 oz niter, 4 oz. mix, fuse and\npowder and add the product to any quantity\nof flux according to the color required.\n3. White oxide of antimony, alum and sal\nammoniac, of each 1 part pure carbonate of\nlead, 1 to 3 parts, as required all in powder\nmix and expose to a heat sufficiently nigh to\ndecompose the sal ammoniac. Very bright.\n4. Flux fused with oxide of lead, and a little\nred oxide of iron.\n5. Pure oxide of silver added to the metallic\nfluxes. The salts of silver are alsojused, but are","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0212.jp2"},"211":{"fulltext":"Enamels.\n199\nEnamels.\ndifficult to manage. If a thin film of oxide of\nsilver be spread over the surface of the enamel\nto be colored, exposed to a moderate heat, then\nwithdrawn and the film of reduced silver on the\nsurface removed, the part under will be found\ntinged of a fine yellow.\nSuperior yellow enamels are less easily pro-\nduced than most other colors they require but\nlittle flux and that mostly of a metallic nature.\nWhite.— 1. Calcine (2 parts of tin and 1 part of\nlead calcined together), 1 part fine crystal or\nfrit, 2 parts; a very trifling quantity of manga-\nnese; powder, mix, melt and pour the fused\nmass into clean water dry, powder, and again\nfuse and repeat the whole process 3 or 4 times,\nobserving to avoid contamination with smoke,\ndirt, or oxide of iron. A fine dead white.\n2. Washed antimony, 1 part fine glass (per-\nfectly free from lead), 3 parts mix and pro-\nceed as before. Very fine.\nFor white enamel, the articles must be per-\nfectly free from foreign admixture, as this\nwould impart a color. When well managed,\neither of the above forms will produce a paste\nthat will rival the opal.— Cooley.\nThese formulas are old, but still are reliable.\nRefer also to the Miscellaneous Enamels below.\nBlack, Enamel for Wood. —Prime the wood\nwith linseed oil, turpentine and white lead;\nthen give it two or three coats of black, mixed\nwith copal varnish and turpentine. Rub it\ndown when dry with pumice stone and water;\nfinally varnish with copal; again rub down and\npolish with oil and rotten stone, to obtain a\nperfect smoothness.\nBlack for Writing on White Enamels.— Use\nvegetable black mixed with a hard drying var-\nnish, and thinned with boiled oil and turpen-\ntine.\nEnameling Iron Vessels.— For enameling cast\nand wrought iron vessels, two compositions\nare in use; one has for its base silicate of lead\nand the other boro-silicate of soda. One of\nthese enamels is applied to the scoured surface\nof the metal in the form of a powder, which is\nfixed by heating to a sufficiently high tempera-\nture to fuse; it then spreads over and covers\nthe metal with a vitreous varnish. The boro-\nsilicate of soda possesses great superiority over\nthe silicate of lead, for it is not attacked by\nvinegar, marine salt, or the greater number of\nacid or saline solutions, even when concen-\ntrated, and resists the action of agents used in\ncooking or chemical operations. The silicate\nof lead enamel is whiter and more homogeneous,\nwhich explains the preference given it by the\npublic, but it gives up oxide of lead to vinegar\nor to common salt; it acts upon a great number\nof coloring matters, and it is attacked by\nnitric acid, which communicates a dull color to\nit. On evaporation the liquid leaves a white\ncrystalline residue of nitrate of lead. This\nenamel is instantly darkened by dissolved sul-\nphides, and also by cooking food containing\nsulphur, such as cabbage, fish and eggs.\n2. To color the enamel green, mix with it\nbefore heating 1 to 2 parts of oxide of chro-\nmium to 10 parts enamel.\n3. For blue, use prepared cobalt, red lead,\nniter, each 1 oz.\n4. For yellow, use lead and tin ashes, litharge\nand antimony, each 1 oz., and niter 4 oz.\n5. Gold and purple of cassius are used for\nred and purple.\n6. For black, use calcined iron and cobalt,\neach 1 oz., or zaffre 2 oz., manganese 1 oz.\nCards, Enamel oh.— The glaze upon enameled\ncards is made by pressure upon a polished\nplate or rollers. The composition is chalk,\nclay and a little starch. Good work is not pos-\nsible without elaborate accessories.\nCarboard, To Enamel.— Cardboard is treated\nwith a surface of white lead and size laid on by\na round badger s hair brush. A powder of\ntalc (silicate of magnesia) is rubbed upon the\ndried surface of the lead, and the face is then\npolished by the brush.\nEnamel, Black for Cycle*.— Asphalt, 40 oz.;\nboiled linseed oil, V z gal.; litharge, 6 oz.; pow-\ndered zinc sulphate, 4 oz.; red lead, 6 oz.; lith-\narge, 6 oz. Melt the asphalt, add the others;\nboil 2 hours, stir in 8 oz. fused dark amber\ngum and 1 pt. hot linseed oil; boil 2 hours\nmore. When mass has thickened remove from\nthe fire and thin 1 gal. turpentine.\nEnameled Cast Iron.— Clean and brighten the\niron before applying. The enamel consists of\ntwo coats— the body and the glaze. The body\nis made by fusing 100 lb. ground flints, 75 lb.\nborax and grinding 40 lb. of this frit, with 5 lb.\nof potter s clay in water, until it is brought to\nthe consistence of a pap. A coat of this being\napplied and dried, but not hard, the glaze pow-\nder is sifted over it. This consists of 100 lb.\nCornish stone in fine powder, 117 lb. borax, 35\nlb. soda ash, 35 lb. niter, 35 lb. sifted slaked\nlime, 13 lb. white sand, 50 lb. of pounded white\nglass. These are all fused together, the frit\nobtained is pulverized. Of this powder 45 lb.\nare mixed with 1 lb. of soda ash in hot water,\nand the mixture dried in a stove is the glaze\npowder. After sifting this over the body coat\nthe cast iron article is put into a stove, kept at\na temperature of 212° to dry it hard, after which\nit is set in a muffle kiln to fuse it into a glaze.\nThe inside of pipes may be enameled (after be-\ning cleaned) by pouring the above body compo-\nsition through them while the pipe is being\nturned around to insure an equal coating. After\nthe body has become set the glaze pap is poured\nin in the same manner. The pipe is then fired\nin the kiln.\nPorcelain Enamel, for Iron— Flint (quartz),\ncalcined and ground, 100 lb.; borax glass (anhy-\ndrous borax) ground, 50 lb. Mix, fuse together\nin a crucible and let it cool slowly. Powder\nand mix 40 lb. of this glass with 5 lb. of kaolin\n(white potter s clay) and grind the mixture to\na fine paste in water; pickle the vessel in dilute\nsulphuric acid and scour with sand to thor-\noughly cleanse its surface; then line it with a\ncoating of the above paste about one-sixth of an\ninch thick, and let it stand in a warm room un-\ntil the coating has partially dried. Next dust\nover the surface of the paste coating (still\nmoist) the following powder, and dry it in an\noven at 212° F.: White glass, free from lead or\narsenic, 125 lb., borax, 25 lb.; carbonate of soda,\nfused, powdered, moistened with water and\ndried, 20 lb. To 45 lb. of this add 1 lb. soda.\nMix thoroughly with a little hot water, dry and\nreduce to fine powder. When the coating on\nthe iron has dried, the vessel is put in a muffle\nand the heat gradually increased until the\nglaze fuses, when it is taken out, more glaze\npowder is dusted on and after a second heating*\nallowed to cool very slowly. Some of the glazes\nemployed consist of friable mixtures of feld-\nspar, sodium carbonate, borax and oxide of tin.\nFeldspar is also sometimes added to the enamel\nbody.\nTo Enamel Cast Iron and Hollow Ware.— I.\nCalcined flints, 6 parts; Cornish stone or com-\nposition, 2 parts: litharge, 9 parts; borax, 6\nparts; argillaceous earth, 1 part; niter, 1 part;\ncalx of tin, 6 parts; purified potash, 1 part.\n2. Calcined flints, 8 parts; red lead, 8 parts;\nborax, 6 parts; calx of tin, 5 parts; niter, 1\npart.\n3. Potter s composition, 12 parts; borax, 8\nparts; white lead, 10 parts; niter, 2 parts; white\nmarble calcined, 1 part; purified potash, 2 parts;\ncalx of tin, 5 parts.\n4. Calcined flints, 4 parts; potter s composi-\ntion, 1 part; niter, 2 parts; borax, 8 parts;\nwhite marble calcined, 1 part; argillaceous\nearth, y% part; calx of tin, 2 parts. The above\ncompositions must be finely powdered, mixed\nand fused. The vitreous mass is to be ground\nwhen cold, sifted and levigated with water. It\nis then made into a pap with water or gum\nwater. This pap is brushed over the interior\nof the vessel, dried and fused with a proper","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0213.jp2"},"212":{"fulltext":"Enamel*.\n2U0\nEnamels,\nheat in a muffle. Clean the vessels thoroughly\nbefore applying.\nEnamel for Labels, etc. (Duchemin).— Arsenic,\n24 parts by weight; saltpeter, 24 parts; silica\n(fine sand), 72 parts; litharge, 200 parts. This\nmixture is spread on plates of glass which are\nnot inferior in point of fusibility to the enamel.\nGlass thus prepared may be drawn or written\non as readily as if it were paper, and the writ-\ning may be rendered indelible by heating the\nplate in a small open furnace or muffle. Labels\nlor horticultural purposes, signboards, show\noases, signs, etc., may thus be cheaply made.\nPhotographs may be taken on this enamel.\nMiscellaneous Enamels. 1. Enamel Blue.\nSixty-four oz. flint glass, 20 oz. red lead, 4 oz.\npearlash, 8 oz. white enamel, 4 oz. common salt,\n■6 oz, best blue calx. To be run down in the\nglost oven, then ground, and add 4 oz. of red\nlead then grind it, and it will be fit for use.\n2. Twenty-six oz. zaffre, 18 oz. pearlash, a\nteaspoonful of charcoal.\n3. Violet Blue.— Four oz. tartar, 2 oz. red lead,\n5 oz. flint, }4 oz. magnesia.\n4. Fourteen parts glass, 5 parts red lead, 1\npart white enamel, 2 parts blue calx. Good.\n5. Ten parts glass, 5 parts red lead, 2 parts\nniter, y% part white enamel, calcined, y$ part\nblue calx. Good.\n6. Flux for Blue— Sixteen lb. flint, 2 lb. lead,\n2J£ lb. borax, 1 lb. pearlash.\n7. Yellow.— Eight of litharge, 6 of flint, 3 of\nantimony, 2 of ocher, 4 of glass.\n8. Three of litharge, 4 of powdered brick, 1\noxide of iron, 3 of antimony to be calcined in\nglost oven and spread on glost plates.\n9. Flux for Yellow.— Three oz. red lead, 1 oz.\nflint.\n10. Enamel Yellow.— Six lb. white lead, lb.\nflint, y% lb. tin ashes; to be mixed well to-\ngether, run down in an enameling heat, and\npoured into warm water.\n11. Carnelian Red. One part chromate of\niron, 3^ parts flux.\n12. Flux.— Three parts red lead, 1 part glass,\n1 part flint. No other flux will do for this. The\nflux must be highly calcined until it forms a\ndark glass.\n13. Enamel Red.— Three of litharge, 2 of anti-\nmony, 1 of iron scales.\n14. One of litharge, 1 of antimony, Yi of iron\nscales, red and yellow, to be spread on plates in\nglost oven.\n15. Flux for Red.— Six oz. of red lead, 4 oz.\nborax, 2 oz. flint glass. To be run down over\ncommon fire.\n16. Pink.— One hundred lb. oxide of tin, 50 lb.\nchloride of lime, 5 lb. oxide of chrome 10 of\nthe foregoing to 1 of flint.\n17. Rose Colors.— One grn. of gold dissolved\nin aquaregia, 4 of block tin dissolved in same;\npour each separately into a basin of cold\nwater, then drop in the tin, when dissolved,\nand stir with a feather; then let it stand six\nhours, until precipitated then wash it in hot\nwater after which add the following 3 paf ts\nborax, 1 part flint and 1 part calx.\n18. Rose Flux.— Fourteen parts glass, 5 parts\nred lead.\n19. Crystal Enamel.— Dissolve 1 oz. white lac\nin 10 oz. warm alcohol. Let the mixture stand\nfor some weeks, then decant the clear portion\nfor use.\nMill way Vanes says (Sci. Am. Supp., No. 387)\nI place little importance on these, as they might\nbe had in any quantity. When in a powdered\nstate and well ground, they are ready for mix-\ning with the proper vehicles on the color slab.\nThese vehicles are raw turpentine, the oil of\nturpentine and the oil of tar. The turpentine\nis placed in a gallipot, which is again placed in\na saucer. The turpentine, in time, fattens and\ncreeps over the edge of the gallipot into the\nsaucer and fattens 1 into the oil of turpentine,\nwhich can be thinned by raw turpentine for\nuse. To this should be added another gallipot\nand saucer, containing tar oil. Now here comes\nthe technical use of these vehicles. The colors\nshould not be made too fat, or left too raw.\nI have said that the lights in enamel painting\nare taken out by the pencil— always a camel\nhair one. If the color be too fat this cannot\nbe cleanly done, or if it be too raw a similar\nevil is encountered. To perfect the color, in\nuse, a little tar oil is mixed with it, and occa-\nsionally used in taking out the lights. This\nwas the manipulation, or modus operandi, of\none of the greatest painters— one of the finest\nwild flower painters in the world; and in my\nexperience I have followed the same practice\nwith the best results.\nTo the camel hair pencil should be added\nthe stick, or holder, which performs some of\nthe most important work in the art of enamel\npainting. It should be made of alder wood,\nand sharpened at the end away from the pen-\ncil. With this the artist takes out the sharpest\nand most brilliant lights of the picture, occa-\nsionally cleaning the end of the pencil stick on\nthe front of his working coat, and then wet-\nting on the tip of his tongue for a cleaner\ntouch.\nThere are no art materials, possibly, so diver-\nsified in quality as enamel slabs for painting on,\nand enamel colors for use in enamel pictures\nAll these colors, being of a mineral character,\nrequire the best chemical mixing and the finest\ngrinding. Rose colors and purple, having bases\nof gold, are sometimes tampered with in the\nuse of a baser material in the manufacture of\nthose colors; and blues and reds are difficult of\nobtaining for pure art purposes. A great\nenamel artist used in his blues a little chloride\nof sodium, or common salt; and his rose colors\nand purples were generally of the first make.\nThis artist had worked in England on the finest\nwares, at Swansea, Worcester, Coalport, Chel-\nsea, the Staffordshire potteries, and elsewhere.\nSpecimens of his clever work might now be\nseen at the Liverpool Museum. At the great\nworks of Minton s and Copeland s, he was one\nof the first hands; and no doubt is now well\nremembered by those who do honor to the\ntrade. From these great manufactories the\nbest of colors might be obtained, not by pur-\nchase, but from the kindness of the employers,\nwho are ever ready to assist in the development\nof art, as the quantity required for art pur-\nposes and amateur use is so very small.\nHaving secured an unblemished porcelain\nslab, or other porcelain article, the subject\nmight be sketched in with a little Indian ink,\nrubbed up in water, then the work is com-\nmenced for the first firing. The work can\neither have a background or can be painted\nwithout one; and here the skill of the artist is\nfirst tried. The background in the first coloring\nmight be bossed in with a small dabber,\nand then the subject taken out and arranged,\nof course, according to the lights and darks\nand colors of the picture. First, second, third,\nand perhaps a fourth firing may be required\nas the work goes on, shadows darkening, tints\nbrought out, and the background receiving the\nmost beautiful and effective stippling, until at\nlast this work of art stands out before the\nadmiring gaze of the beholders, a finished work\nof technical ability, gorgeous in colors, most\ndeep and rich in tone, and defying all the\npower of time in permanency of hues. But\neven here a few other touches might be re-\nquired, and another firing given. To this end\nthe artist, before alluded to used a little white\nenamel, mixed in water, giving the finest dots,\nas it were, for seed pearls, and the work was\nfinished.\nAs before stated, enamel colors are prepared\nfrom the oxides of different metals with a\nvitreous flux. Ihe principal colors are oxides\nof lead, platinum, chromium, uranium.. Oxides\nof tin and antimony give opacity.\nEnameling Metal. The use of colored\nenamels on large surfaces is yet in its infancy.\nThe ordinary gray enamel (so called) is really","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0214.jp2"},"213":{"fulltext":"Enamel Powders.\n301\nEssences.\nnot an enamel, but a transparent glaze, the\napparent gray color of which is produced by\nthe surface of iron beneath the glaze.\nGray Mixture Enamel.\nSand 101b. Ooz.\nRed lead 33 lb. oz.\nBoracic acid 20 lb. oz.\nCullett (broken glass) 114 lb. oz.\nBicarbonate of soda 16 lb. oz.\nNiter 1 lb. 2 oz.\nManganese. lb.8 oz.\nGray Mixture Enamel.\nFlint 361b. Ooz.\nBoracic acid 241b. Ooz.\nBicarbonate of soda 24 lb. oz.\nNiter 181b. Ooz.\nWhite Mixture Enamel.\nCullett 111b. Ooz.\nBoracic acid 7 lb. oz.\nBicarbonate of soda lb. 4 oz.\nPhosphate of lime 31b. 8oz.\nOxide of antimony 01b. 2 oz.\nTo Stamp with Gold on an Enameled Surf ace.—\nUse thin gold size and a hot brand.\nPasteboard and Paper, Enamel for.— Paper is\n-enameled by coating with a mixture of 100\nparts kaolin (perfectly dry) and 24 parts par-\naffin melted and mixed hot. After cooling it is\nreduced to powder and worked into paste in a\npaint mill with water, and then applied to the\npaper. Or try a mixture of dammar varnish\nand Chinese white. The last will strengthen\nthe paper a little; the first will not.\nEnamel Powders. See Powders.\nEncaustic Paste. See Photography.\nEnema. A medicine usually liquid, some-\ntimes gaseous, thrown into the rectum or lower\nbowels.\nEngobc.-A thin layer of paste, or slip.\nEngraving, Sand Blast.— Sand driven\nby an air blast of the pressure of 4 in. of water\nwill completely grind or depolish the surface\nof glass in ten seconds. If the glass is covered\nby a stencil of paper or lace, or by a design\ndrawn in any tough elastic substance, such as\nhalf dried oil, paint or gum, a picture will be\nengraved on the surface. Photographic copies\nin bichromated gelatine from delicate line en-\ngravings have been thus faithfully reproduced\non glass. In photographic pictures in gelatin,\ntaken from nature, the lights and shadows pro-\nduce films of gelatin of different degrees of\nthickness. A carefully regulated sand blast\nwill act upon the glass beneath these films\nmore or less powerfully, in proportion to the\nthickness of the films, and the gradations of\nlight and shade are thus produced on the glass.\nIn the apparatus used air rises through a curved\ntube, carrying the sand up with it, which is\nthrown into the air tube by an endless belt of\nscoops arranged in the lower part of the angu-\nlar box. The sand is carried up by the air and\nbrought over and down the front air tube,\nwhere it discharges with great force upon the\nsurface of the glass, which is contained within\nthe front box and is carried by a belt gradually\nforward under the blast.\nEngravings, to Bleach. See Bleach-\ning.\nEngravings, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nEngraver s Border Wax. See Waxes.\nEngraving Inks. See Inks.\nEngravings, to Mount.— Strain thin\nmuslin on a frame, then carefully paste on it\nthe engraving, so as to be free from creases\nafterward, and when dry, give the engraving\ntwo coats of thin size (made by putting a piece\nof glue the size of a small nut into a small cup-\nful of hot water); finally when this dries, var-\nnish the engraving with a varnish known as\nwhite hard. See also Drawings.\nEngravings, to Transfer. See Trans-\nferring.\nEntomologists, Cement for. See Ce-\nments.\nEnvelope, Safety.— A safety envelope\nmay be made by treating that part of the paper\ncovered by the flap with a solucion of chromic\nacid, ammonia, sulphuric acid, sulphate of cop-\nper and fine white paper. The flap itself is\ncoated with a solution of isinglass in acetic\nacid, and when this is moistened and pressed\ndown on the under part of the envelope a solid\ncement is formed entirely insoluble in acids,\nalkalies, hot or cold water, steam, etc.\nEpithem.— Any external liquid medicine\nfor local application, as an embrocation or lo-\ntion. Some writers confine the term to those\npreparations which are intended to be applied\nby means of a cloth dipped in them.\nEquivalence. See Quantivalence.\nErasive Soaps. See Soaps.\nErgot. Syn. Spurred Rye. Secale Cor-\nnutum. Ergota. Diseased Grains of Rye.—\nErgot of rye deteriorates greatly by age. It is\nfed on by a description of acarus resembling\nthe cheese mite, but much smaller, and this in-\nsect in time destroys the whole of the internal\nportion of the grain, leaving nothing but the\nshell and a considerable quantity of excremen-\ntitious matter. To prevent this the ergot should\nbe well dried, and then placed in bottles or tin\ncanisters, and closely preserved from the air.\nThe addition of a few cloves or drops of the oil\nof cloves, or strong acetic acid, or a little cam-\nphor or comphorated spirit of wine will pre-\nserve this substance for years in close vessels.\nEscharotics.— Substances that destroy the\ntexture of living organic substances, with the\nproduction of an eschar or scab.\nEscharotics, Painless.— 1. A painless\ncaustic for the removal of warts and tumors\nmay be made as follows\nArsenious acid 1 part.\nSulphate of morphine 1 part.\nCalomel 8 parts.\nPowdered gum arabic 48 pai-ts.\nThis is to besprinkled over the cuticle daily,\nthe surface of which has been previously de-\nnuded by knife or blister.\n2. Cauquoin s paste for the same purpose is\ncomposed of ten parts of chloride of zinc, two\nparts of alcohol (60°), and fifteen parts of wheat\nflour. The zinc in fine is added to the alcohol,\nthen incorporated with the flour in a mortar,\nstrongly pressing with the pestle. As soon as\nhomogeneous it is spread with a roller into\nsheets an eighth of an inch thick, and after a\nfew hours put into a well corked bottle.\n3. Latour s nitrochloride of zinc paste is also\nan excellent preparation, and is made by dis-\nsolving fifty pai ts of the chloride and one hun-\ndred parts of the nitrate of zinc in eighty parts\nof water. The solution is made by the aid of\nheat. When it cools, seventy-five parts of\nwheat flour is incorporated with one hun-\ndred parts of the solution, as with Cauquoin s\npaste.\nEsparto, Spanish Grass. Used to a consid-\nerable extent in the manufacture of paper.\nEsprit. See Perfumes.\nEssence (Perfumery). See Perfumes.\nEssence of Soaps. See Soaps.\nEssences.— Allspice.— I fl. oz. essential oil of\nallspice (pimento), 1 pint strongest rectified\nspirit; agitate till perfectly mixed next day\ndecant the clear from the sediment.\nAlmonds.— 1 One fl. oz. essential oil of al-\nmonds, 1 pt. spirit; proceed as allspice.\n2. One fl. oz. essential oil, 7 fl. oz. spirit.\nAlmonds— 1. Essence of bitter almonds, es-\nsence of peach kernels, almond flavor.\nEssential oil of almonds 1 fl. oz.\nRectified spirit (56 o. p.) 19 fl. oz.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0215.jp2"},"214":{"fulltext":"Essences.\n202\nEssences.\nMix and agitate them together until united.\n2. Concentrated essence of almonds, double\nE. of A. Take of—\nEssential oil of almonds 1 fl. oz.\nRectified spirit (strongest) 9 fl. oz.\nMix. Used chiefly to impart the nutty aroma\nand flavor of bitter almonds and peach kernels\nto other preparations. The first is the common\nessence of the shops. Essences of other essen-\ntial oils may be prepared in a similar manner.\nMany of them are now much used by confec-\ntioners and cooks, as well as in perfumery and\ncosmetics. It should be remembered that es-\nsence of almonds is poisonous.\nAmbergris.—\n1. Ambergris 5 drm.\nRectified spirit (63 to 66 o. p) 1 pt.\nPut them into a strong bottle or tin can, se-\ncure the mouth perfectly and very firmly and\nkeep the vessel in a room exposed to the heat\nof the sun, or equally warm, for a month or\ntwo, observing to briskly agitate it daily dur-\ning the whole time. Lastly, after repose, de-\ncant the clear portion, and, if necessary, filter\nit rapidly through bibulous paper. Very fine.\nIt forms the strongest and finest simple es-\nsence of ambergris of the West End (London)\nand Paris houses.\n2. Ambergris 2^ drm.\nRectified spirit 1 pt.\nDigest, with frequent agitation, for 2 or 3\nweeks. Good. Chiefly used as an element in\nother perfumes and preparations.\nAmmoniacum.—l. One lb. ammoniacum in\ntears, bruised in a cold mortar with lb. coarse,\nwell washed, silicious sand or powdered glass;\nand M pint rectified spirit gradually added,\ntrituration is continued till the whole is re-\nduced to smooth paste, and it is then placed in\na wide mouthed bottle with y% pt. spirit of\nwine; digest for a week with frequent stirring,\nand after allowing to settle, decant the clear\ninto another bottle for use.\nAngelica.— 1. Two oz. angelica root, 2}4 oz.\nrectified spirit, 9 oz. water; digest, strain and\nevaporate.\n2. Two lb. angelica root, 1 gal. rectified spirit;\nmake a tincture; to the marc addl gal. proof\nspirit and repeat the digestion; filter the two\ntinctures separately, mix, distill off the spirit,\nand evaporate.\nAnodyne.— 1. One drm. powdered hard aque-\nous extract of opium, y% drm. powdered cinna-\nmon, 1 fl. oz. rectified spirit; digest a week.\n2. Five drm. recent extract of henbane, 2 fl.\noz. rectified spirit; digest a week.\nAntihysteric.— i grn. potassium cyanide, 1\ndrm. powdered sugar, 4 fl. drm. rectified spirit,\n4 fl. drm. orange water; shake together till dis-\nsolved.\nApples.— Peel and reduce to pulp, 6 lb. unripe\ncrab apples; add 1 lb. iron wire in small coils;\ndigest in a vapor bath for about a week, express,\nstrain, decant and evaporate in a porcelain\nvessel, with constant stirring, to the consist-\nence of a soft extract dissolve the residue in 4\nparts water, strain and evaporate as before.\nApricot.— Butyric ether, 10 parts; valerianic\nether, 5 parts; glycerine, 4 parts; amylic alco-\nhol, 2 parts; amyl-butyric ether, chloroform,\ncenanthic ether, and tartaric acid, each 1 part.\nAromatic— One drm. hay saffron, 6 fl. drm.\nrectified spirit; digest together, filter; to fil-\ntrate, add 1 drm. oil of cinnamon, I drm. pow-\ndered white sugar, 2 fl. drm. rectified ether,\ndrm. oil of nutmeg, drm. essence of ginger;\nafter shaking and a few days repose, decant\nthe clear.\nBanana.— Banana essence, 2 oz.; citric acid, 1\noz.; alcohol, 70°, 2 pt.\nBark.--1. Pour drm. resinous extract of yellow\nbark, V/ 2 fl. oz. rectified spirit, A- oz. tincture\nof orange peel, 1 fl. drm. acetic acid; digest a\nweek.\n2. One half drm. quinine disulphate, 2 drm.\nresinous extract of bark, 2 fl. oz. rectified spirit;\ndigest a week.\nBeef.—l. One lb. lean beef chopped small, y%\npt. water; put into large bottle and shake vio-\nlently half an hour; strain the liquid into a jug;\nboil the solid residue in 1 pt. water for twenty\nminutes; strain, and add the liquid to the pre-\nvious cold infusion; evaporate to consistence\nof thin sirup, add salt and spice to taste, and\nwhile boiling hot pour into cans or (previously\nheated) bottles, hermetically seal, and store in\na cold place.\nBirch.— First cut the oil. The essence is made\nas follows Oil of birch or wintergreen, 1J^ oz.;\nalcohol 95°, 12 oz.; water, 12 oz.\nBitter.— Four oz. wormwood, 1 oz. gentian\nroot, 1 oz. bitter orange peel, 1 oz. blessed\nthistle, 45 oz. rectified spirit. Digest a week.\nBlackberry.— Tincture of orris root (1 to 8), 1\npt. acetic ether, 30 drops; butyric ether, 60\ndrops.\nBlackberry.— Apple oil, 1 oz. quince oil, 1\noz. tincture of orris 1 oz. tartaric acid, 1 oz.\nalcohol, 70°, 2 pt.\nBlack Cherry, Essence of.— Benzoic ether, 5\nparts acetic ether, 10 parts oil of persico\n(peach kernels) and benzoic acid, each 2 parts\noxalic acid, 1 part.\nCamphor.— 1. Four and a half oz clean cam-\nphor dissolved in 1 gal. rectified spirit.\n2. One oz. camphor, 10 oz. rectified spirit.\n3. Thirteen fl. drm. tincture of camphor,\nfl. drm. tincture of myrrh, 18y 2 fl. drm. recti-\nfied spirit.\n4. One fl. oz. spirit of camphor, 7 fl. oz. proof\nspirit.\n5. One drm. camphor dissolved in 2% oz.\nrectified spirit add oz. water.\n6. One drm. powdered camphor dissolved in\n12 fl. oz. water saturated with carbonic acid gas.\nCardamom.— Cardamom seeds, 600 gr. alco-\nhol at 85°, 10 5 1. water, 5 1. Product, 10 1.\nCatechu (Cachou).— Catechu, 600 gr. alcohol,\n85°, 10-5 1. water, 5 1. Product, 10 1.\nCedrat.— Rinds of 60 fresh citrons; alcohol,\n121. Macerate for twenty-four hours; at the\ntime of distilling add 5 1. of water and distill\ndraw off 11 1. Rectify with 5 1. of water. Pro-\nduct, 10 1.\nCelery.— 1. Four and a half oz. bruised celery\nseed, 1 pt. proof spirit; digest 14 days, strain.\n2. Seven oz. celery seed, 1 pt. rectified spirit\ndigest and strain as 1.\nCherry. Benzoic ether, acetic ether, each 5\nparts glycerine, 3 parts cenanthic ether and\nbenzoic acid, each 1 part.\nCherry, Wild (Fluid). Sixteen oz. wild cherry\nin fine powder, 4 oz. glycerine, 8 oz. water; mix\nthe glycerine and the water, and digest the\nwild cherry in 8 oz. of the mixture for four\ndays pack in a percolator and pour on the re-\nmaining 4 oz. glycerine and water when this\nhas disappeared from the surface, pour on\nrectified spirit (0*817) until 12 oz. of fluid have\nbeen obtained, and set this portion aside. Then\npercolate with spirit until 20 oz. more have\nbeen obtained; evaporate to 4 oz. and mix\nwith the reserved portion.\nCinnamon. Cinnamon, pulverized, 300 grm.;\nalcohol 85°, 10*5 1.; water, 5 1. Macerate for\ntwenty-four hours, distill over open fire. Rec-\ntify the product with 5 1. water over an open\nfire product, 101.\nCochineal.— Two oz. cochineal, 2 oz. subcarbon-\nate of potash, 2 oz. potash alum, 2 oz. cream of\ntartar, 20 oz. distilled water. Boil the cochineal\nand potash together for about ten minutes, then\nstir in gradually the cream of tartar and alum;\nstrain through muslin, and afterward filter\nthrough paper. To the filtrate add y 2 lb. lump\nsugar, and dissolve with gentle heat.\nCoffee.— 1. Four oz. coffee, 2 oz. chiccory, 1 oz.\ncaramel (burnt sugar); prepared by percolation\nof the coffee with boiling water, gently and\nquickly evaporated to y or 14 its bulk,addinga\nthick aqueous extract of the chiccory and sirup","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0216.jp2"},"215":{"fulltext":"Essences.\n203\nEssences.\nof burnt sugar, so as to give the whole a con-\nsistence of molasses.\n2. Use 3 pt. 90% rectified spirit, over 3 oz. fine-\nly ground coffee. Digest and filter.\nColtsfoot.— 1. One oz. tolu balsam, 3 oz. recti-\nfied spirit, 3 oz. compound tincture of benzoin,\ndissolve in a few days decant the clear.\n2. One oz. tolu balsam, 1 oz. compound tincture\nof benzoin, 2 oz. rectified spirit.\n3. Five fl. oz. tincture of tolu, 3 fl. oz. com-\npound tincture of benzoin; 1 oz. quite dry\npowdered sugar, 1 drm. hay saffron; digest a\nweek, with frequent shaking.\nCoriander.— Coriander seeds, 12 k. 500 gr.; al-\ncohol, 10.501.; water, 5 1.— product, 10 1.\nCubebs. One-half lb. Bruised or ground\ncubebs, 1 pt. rectified spirit; digest fourteen\ndays, press, filter.\n2. Four and one quarter lb. cubebs, 1 gal. rec-\ntified spirit.\n3. Oleo Resinous.— 1 oz. oleo resinous extract\nof cubebs dissolved in 3 oz. rectified spirit.\nCumin.— Cumin seeds, 1 kilo. 250 grm. alco-\nhol at 85° 10*50 liters; water, 5 liters product, 10\nliters.\nCurrant.— Acetic ether, tartaric acid, each 5\nparts; benzoic acid, succinic acid, benzoic\nether, aldehyde, and cenanthic acid, each 1 part.\nFruit Essences. Dingier 1 s Polytechnic Journal\ngives the following table of the composition of\nartificial fruit essences, showing the number of\nparts of each ingredient to be added to 100 parts\nof alcohol— all chemically pure. Glycerine is\nfound in all -it appears to blend the different\nodors, and to harmonize them\nstrained tincture is reduced by distillation in a.\nsteam or water bath to 1 gal., cooled, trans-\nferred rapidly to stoppered bottles, and fil-\ntered.\n6. Twenty-four lb. ginger as in 5, 6 gal. recti-\nfied spirit; make a tincture as before, and distill\ndown to 1 gal.; cool as quickly as possible out\nof contact with the air, and add 1 gal. strongest\nrectified spirit of wine; filter if necessary.\n7. Causes no turbidity with water or sirup.\n1 lb. finest Jamaica ginger in powder, macer-\nated in 8 oz. rectified spirit for several hours;\nadd more spirit, and percolate to 16 oz.; add z\noz. heavy carbonate of magnesia, agitate, and\nadd 24 oz. water; shake well, and filter. If the\nfiltrate is turbid, shake up with more mag-\nnesia, and filter again. It becomes turbid,\nagain after a few days rest, but on filtering\ncontinues clear. Thresh.\nGrape.— CEnanthic ether, glycerine, each 10\nparts; tartaric acid, 5 parts; succinic acid, 3\nparts; aldehyde, chloroform and formic ether,\neach 2 parts; and methylsalicylic ether, 1 part.\nHeadache.— 1. One drm. oil of lavender (Mit-\ncham), 1 oz. camphor, 4 oz. liquor ammonias, 1\npt. rectified spirit; dissolve.\n2. Two lb. spirit of camphor, 4 oz. strong\nwater of ammonia, J^ oz. essence of lemon.\n3. Two oz. camphor, 2 oz. liquor of ammonia.\n4 drm. oil of lavender, 14 oz. rectified spirit.\nVery fragrant, stimulant, and rubefacient.\n4. Two lb. spirit of wine, 2 oz. roach alum, 4\noz. camphor, oz. essence lemon, 4 oz. strong\nwater of ammonia, in a close-stoppered bottle\nshake daily for three or four days.\nGinger. 1. Five oz. bruised unbleached Ja-\nmaica ginger, 1 pt. rectified spirit; digest a fort-\nnight, press, filter.\n2. As 1, with addition of very little essence of\ncayenne.\n3. Three oz. grated ginger, 2 oz. fresh lemon\npeel, digested in 1*4 pt. brandy for ten days.\n4. Equal parts best unbleached Jamaica\nginger in coarse powder, and silicious sand,\nsprinkled with enough rectified spirit of wine\nto perfectly moisten; after twenty-four hours,\nthe mass is placed in a percolator, and after re-\nturning the first runnings two or three times,\nthe receiver is changed, and more rectified\nspirit is poured on gradually and at intervals\nas repuired, until as much essence is obtained\nas there has been ginger employed.\n5. Twelve lb. best unbleached Jamaica ginger\nin coarse powder digested in 2)4 gal. rectified\nspfrit for fourteen days; the expressed and\nH op— 1. 2 oz. new hops (rubbed small), 1\nqt. proof spirit digest twenty-four hours, then\ndistill 1 pt. over (quickly), and set the disiillate\naside in a corked bottle; to the residue add 1 pint\nwater, boil fifteen minutes, cool, express the\nliquor, strain, and evaporate as quickly as\npossible to dryness by a water bath; powder\nthe residue, and add to the distilled spirit;\ndigest a week and filter.\nJuniper Berry Essence.— Dissolve oz. of oil\nof juniper in 3 pt. of rectified spirit, 90£. Filter.\nEssence of Lemon.— Oil of lemon, acetic ether,\nand tartaric acid, each 10 parts; glycerine, 5\nparts; aldehyde, 2 parts; chloroform, nitrous\nether and succinic acid, each 1 part.\nThe different manufacturers of artificial\nfruit essences doubtless prepare them by for-\nmula? of their own, and this explains the differ-\nence in the flavor, which is particularly notice-\nable on largely diluting them with water. If\n1\nChloroform\n4\n5\no\nm o\nS\nft\n4\n1\na\nfl\n8\nu\nA\nO\n3\nU\nA\nM\no\nS3\ns\na\no\na\nHi\n5\n1\n1\n2\n10\nu\nP.\n10\n5\nbo\nfl\neg\nH\no\n10\n2\n2\n5\n1\n1\n6\nft\nft\n4\n1\n1\n2\n1\nft\nc3\nti\n10\n2\n2\n2\n■h\n■h\nA\nw\n1\n5\nA\nft\nW\nc3\n4\nl\n1\n5\n1\n1\nA\nM\n+3\nGO\n2\n1\n5\n1\n5\nfl\n3\n2\ni\n4\n5\nft\nft\nc3\nfl\nE\n3\n1\n1*\n5-\n2\n5\n5\n5\n5\n10\n5\n5\n5\n1\n2\n5\n10\nButyrate of Ethyl\nValerianate of Ethyl\n5\n1\n5\n2\n1\n10\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1 N\n1\n1\n1\ni\n3\n2\nQSnanthylate of Ethyl\n5\n1\n2\n1\n4\n2\n1\n10\n1\n10\nButyrate of Amyl.\n1\nl6\n10\n10\nEssence of Orange\n10\n1\nsolutions 1 Oxalic Acid\n1\n1\n10\ni\n5\n5\n5\nsaturated in f Succinic Acid\n1\n3\n1\n1\n1\nthe cold of J Benzoic Acid\n1\n1\nI","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0217.jp2"},"216":{"fulltext":"Essences.\n204\nEssences.\nthe essences have been prepared with a dilute\nalcohol, their odor is more prominent and they\nare apparently stronger but on mixing a small\nquantity with a large quantity of water in\ngiven proportions, the true flavoring strength\nmay be better discerned,,\nA fruit essence which is much employed in\nthe United States is essence of banana it con-\nsists usually of butyric ether and amyl-acetic\nether, equal parts, dissolved in about 5 parts of\nalcohol.\nThe red color of strawberry and raspberry\nessence is produced by aniline red (f uchsin), the\nbluish tint of which is conveniently neutralized\nby a little caramel. If caramel alone is used\nfor coloriug essences a yellow or brown color\nis obtained, according to the quantity used.\nEssence of Lemons.— From oil of lemon, as\nessence of almonds. For this purpose the\noil should have been recently expressed and\npreserved from the air. A dash of essence\nof musk improves it as a perfume, but not as a\nflavoring essence. Oil of lemon is popularly\ncalled essence of lemons, as noticed elsewhere.\nLemon.— Oil of lemon, acetic ether and tar-\ntaric acid, each 10 parts; glycerine, 5 parts;\naldehyde, 2 parts; chloroform, nitrous ether\nand succinic ether, each 1 part.\nLemon Peel.— 1. One half lb. yellow peel of\nfresh lemons, gal. boiling water infuse one\nhour, express the liquor, boil down to y pt.,\ncool and add J4 oz. oil of lemon dissolved in iy\npt. spirit of wine mix and filter.\nMelon Essence.— Take iy parts glycerine; 5\nparts aldehyde 4J4 parts f ormiate of ethyl 10\nparts butyrate of ethyl 12^ parts valerianate\nof ethyl 25 parts sebacic ether.\nMelon.— Sebacylic ether, 10 parts valerianic\nether, 5 parts; glycerine, 3 parts; butyric\nether, 4 parts aldehyde, 2 parts formic ether,\n1 part.\nMustard. 1. Mustard liniment of double\nstrength [not recommended].\n2. Whitehead s:\nBlack mustard seed, bruised. 2y oz.\nTepid water 2 fluid oz.\nMix, and in a few hours add\nOil of turpentine 1 pt.\nDigest, with strong agitaiton, for 48 hours,\nthen decant and filter. In the filtrate dissolve,\nby digestion and agitation, of\nCamphor (small) 2 oz.\nOil of rosemary 3 drm.\nBalsam of tolu 1 drm.\nAnnatto ^jdrm.\nLastly, after repose, decant the clear portion.\nNectarine.— Extract of vanilla, 2 parts; es-\nsence of lemon, 2; essence of pineapple, 1.\nOrange.— Oil of orange and glycerine, each\n10 parts; aldehyde and chloroform, each 2 parts;\nacetic ether, 5 parts; benzoic ether, formic\nether, butyric etiier, amylacetic ether, methyl-\nsalicylic ether and tartaric acid, each 1 part.\nOrange Peel.— Four oz fresh yellow rind of\norange, J^pt. rectified spirit, J^pt. water; di-\ngest for a week, pi ess, filter add 1 qt. sherry.\nPeach.— Formic ether, valerianic ether, buty-\nric ether, acetic ether, glycerine and oil of\npersico, each 5 parts; aldehyde and amy lie\nalcohol, each 2 parts; sebacylic ether, 1 part.\nPear.— Acetic ether, 5 parts; amly-acetic\nether and glycerine, each 2 parts.\nPennyroyal.— As peppermint.\nPeppermint.— 1. Oil of peppermint (Mitcham),\n1 fluid ounce- rectified spirit, 1 pt.; mix by\nagitation. White. This is the usual strength\nof that solid in the shops. The corresponding-\npreparation of the new Br. Ph., spiritus\nmenthae piperitge, has more than double this\nstrength, being made with 1 fl. oz. of oil to 9 fl.\noz. of rectified spirit.\n2. To the product of No. 1 (above), add about\nhalf ounce of herb peppermint, parsley, leaves,\nspinach leaves, and digest for a week, or until\nsufficiently tinged or agitate the essence with\n10 or 12 grn. of sap green, previously rubbed\ndown with about a teaspoon! ul of hot water. A\ndelicate light green. The ignorant do not con-\nceive it to be good and pure unless it has a pale\ngreenish tint.\nUsed in toothache and to disguise foulness ot\nthe breath but chiefly as a flavoring ingredient\nby confectioners, cooks and druggists. Pep-\npermint (essence, water) is a great favorite in\ndomestic and popular medicine, as a remedy in\nflatulence, colic, nausea, sickness, etc., and to\ndisguise the flavor of nauseous substances.\nThe dose of the essence is 10 to 30 drops on\nsugar, or mixed up with a little water or wine;\nof the water a teacupf ul or more, at will. A\nfew drops of the essence well agitated with y\npt. of cold water, form an extemporaneous\npeppermint water equal to that obtained by\ndistillation. This water is an excellent mouth\nwash for smokers.\n3. One oz. oil of peppermint, 4 oz. rectified\nspirit; mix.\n4. To 3 add y oz. herb of peppermint, or\nparsley or spinach leaves (preferably one of the\nfirst two), digest for a week, or until sufficiently\ncolored 10 or 12 gr. sap green rubbed up with\na teaspoonf ul of hot water, is also used for\ncoloring.\n5. Two fl. oz. of oil of peppermint, 16 fl. oz.\nrectified spirit.\nPineapple Punch Essence. Alcohol, 2 qt.\nrum, 1 qt. artificial pineapple essence, y fl.\ndrm.; essence cenanthic ether, 20 grn.; citric\nacid solution, 1 to iy fl. oz.; sirup, 2 qt.\nPineapple. Amyl butyric ether, 10 parts; bu-\ntyric ether, 5 parts; glycerine, 3 parts; aldehyde\nand chloroform, each 1 part.\nPlums Glycerine, 8 parts; acetic ether and\naldehyde, each 5 parts; oil of persico, 4 parts;\nbutyric ether, 2 parts; and formic ether, 1\npart.\nEnglish Punch Essence. 1. Rum, 2 qt.; citric\nacid solution, 1 fluid oz.; essence of lemon, so-\nluble, iy oz.; tincture vanilla, 1 fluid oz.; tinc-\nture cinnamdn, iy drm. alcohol, 95°, 1 to 2 pt.\nAdd 2 qt. sirup. The alcohol may be left out.\n2. Rum, 1 pt.; cognac, y pt.; citric acid solu-\ntion, y to 1 oz.; essence of lemon, soluble, 15\ngrn.; sirup, 1 pt.; mix.\nQuassia. 1. Digest iy oz. sliced quassia in 1\npt. proof spirit for ten days, and filter.\nRaspberry. Acetic ether and tartaric acid,\neach 5 parts; glycerine, 4 parts; aldehyde, formic\nether, benzoic ether, butyric ether, amyl bu-\ntyric ether, acetic ether, cenanthic ether, me-\nthyl salicylic ether, nitrous ether, sebacylic\nether, and succinic acid, each 1 part.\nRennet— One clean fresh rennet minced; salt, 4\noz.; glycerine, 2 oz.; 4 oz. alcohol; sirupy lactic\nacid, 1 drm.; water, 20 fluid oz.; digest seven\ndays, shake frequently, filter; color with co-\nchineal; add 10 minims of chloroform, add\nenough water to make 40 fluid oz.\nRhubarb.— Five oz. rhubarb powder; 5 oz.\nsilicious sand; 1 pt. proof spirit; extract by\ndisplacement.\nSarsaparilla.—l. Two and three-quarters lb.\nsarsaparilla root (best red Jamaica), carefully\ndecorticated; the bark reduced to coarse pow-\nder, and digested for seven to ten days in pt.\nsherry and J4 pt. rectified spirit, with frequent\nagitation; the essence is expressed, and in a\nweek the clear portion is decanted from the\nsediment.\n2. Seven oz. alcoholic extract of sarsaparilla;\nM Pt sherry; 34 Pt- rectified spirit; dissolve and\nfilter.\n3. Four oz. alcoholic extract, 1 pt. sherry;\ndissolve and filter.\n4. Four oz. alcoholic extract, 1 lb. white\nwine.\n5. Ten oz. bruised sarsaparilla; 6 pt. distilled\nwater; macerated at a temperature of 120° F.\n(49° C.) for six hours, and strain; repeat with\nthe same quantity of fresh water; mix the li-","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0218.jp2"},"217":{"fulltext":"Essences.\n205\nEtching.\nquors and evaporate in china vessels at 160° F.\n(71 C).\n6. Two and three-quarters lb. bark separated\nfrom sarsaparilla root, exhausted with water\nas 5; the liquid is evaporated as quickly as\npossible in a water bath to 16 fluid oz., and\nwhen cold mixed with 4 fluid oz. rectified spirit.\nSavory Spices.— 1. Four oz. black pepper; 3\ndrm. powdered turmeric; V/% drm. coriander\nseeds (all ground), 1^ fluid drm. oil of pimento,\nY drm. each oils of nutmeg cloves, cassia, and\ncaraway; 1 pt. rectified spirit; digest with agi-\ntation for a fortnight.\nSoap.— Four oz. Castile soap (in shavings); 1\npt. proof spirt; dissolve and add a litte per-\nfume.\nEssence of Soup Herbs (Kitchener).— Lemon\nthyme, 1^ oz.; winter savory, Wz oz.; sweet\nmarjoram and sweet basil, each V/% oz.; grated\nlemon peal, oz.; eschalots, oz.; bruised\ncelery seed, oz,; proof spirit, 1^ pt. Digest\nfrom ten to fourteen days. A good flavoring-\nessence for soups, gravies, etc.\nStrawberry.— Butyric ether and acetic ether,\neach 5 parts; amyl-acetic ether, 3 parts; amyl-\nbutyric ether and glycerine, each 2 parts;\nformic ether, nitrous ether and methyl-sali-\ncylic ether, each 1 part.\nTonic Beer Essence.— Oil of wintergreen, 6\ndrm.; oil of sassafras and oil of orange, of each\n6 drm.; oil of anise, 30 grn.; oil of cloves, 30\ngrn. Cut the oils, dissolve in 20 fl. oz. alcohol\n95°; add gradually 20 fl. oz. water.\nVanilla.— 1. Take-\nVanilla 2 oz.\nRectified spirit 1 pt.\nDigest for a fortnight.\n2. VaniUa (finest) J4 lb.\nRectified spirit 1 qt.\nProceed as last, or, preferably, as for essence\nof musk. Lastly, press and decant or filter.\nVery superior. It forms the best quality\nvended by the wholesale druggists, and is sold\nat exorbitant prices. This, as well as the pre-\nceding, is chiefly used for flavoring and as an\ningredient in compound perfumes and cos-\nmetics.\nVolatile Essence, Volatile Ammoniacal Es-\nsence, Essentia Volatilis, Essentia Volatilis\nAromatica, etc. This is the strongest liquor of\nammonia appropriately scented or aromatized.\nNearly every maker has his own formula. The\nproducts of the following, which are given as\nexamples, are highly esteemed in fashionable\nlif e\n1. Otto of roses 12 drops.\nOil of cinnamon.. y% fl. drm.\nOil of cloves 1 fl. drm.\nOil of bergamot. 2 fl. drm.\nOil of lavender (Mitcham).. 4 fl. drm.\nEssence of musk 5 fl. drm.\nLiquor of ammonia (sp. gr.\n0-882-0-880) 1 pt.\nPut them into a V/% pt. bottle and shake it\nwell until they are combined, observing to do\nso also each time before use. The bottle should\nbe kept in a cold place.\n2. Oil of lemon 5 fl. drm.\nOil of bergamot 5 fl. drm.\nOil of lavender (Mitcham) 2 fl. drm.\nOil of cloves 1 fl. drm.\nOtto of roses lfl. drm.\nOil of cassia drm.\nOil of cedrat drm.\nNeroli drm.\nOil of sandalwood 15 drops.\nLiquor of ammonia (see above) 1 pt.\nAs before.\n3. Oil of bergamot. 3 fl. drm.\nOil of lavender (Mitcham). 2 fl. drm.\nOil of cloves 1]4 fl. drm.\nOil of cassia fl. drm.\nOii of verbena fl. drm.\nOil of rhodium J^fl. drm.\nOil of sandalwood fl. drm.\nLiquor of ammonia (see\nabove) J^ pt.\nAs before.\n4. Oil of bergamot 3 drm.\nOil of lemon 2 drm.\nOil of lavender 1 drm.\nOil of jasmine 1 drm.\nOil of sassafras drm.\nNeroli 15 drops.\nOtto of roses 15 drops.\nOil of origanum 15 drops.\nEtching.— The following is a simple descrip-\ntion of the process of etching For copper\nplates two preparations are required. 1. The\nmordant, composed of hydrochloric acid, 100\ngrm. chlorate of potash, 20 grm. water, 880\ngrm. The water is to be warmed and the\nchlorate of potash perfectly dissolved in it\nfirst then the acid is added the common\nmuriatic acid of commerce must not be used\nit gives off intolerable fumes and is of a deep\nyellow color. The proper form of the acid for\netching does not fume, and has a very slight\nodor when mixed with water.\n2. The ground for the copper plate, consist-\ning of a solution of yellow beeswax in turpen-\ntine, decanted until no sediment remains the\nsolution should be clear and of a bright yellow\ncolor add of its volume of Japan varnish.\nTo prepare the plate, clean the surface with\nengraver s emery paper, then pour a small\nquantity of the mordant into a shallow porce-\nlain bath, such as photographers use, and put\nthe plate in the bath, leaving it until the sur-\nface darkens all over; if any spots remain\nbright it is a sign that the plate is greasy, in\nwhich case the grease must be removed then,\nwhen the plate is uniformly dark, wash and\ndry it and pour on a little of the ground, so\nthat it covers the surface all over, let it dry for\ntwelve hours, then apply a second coat of\nground, and without waiting for it to dry\nsmoke the surface with twisted tapers, holding\nthe plate upside down let it dry and the plate\nwill be ready for etching on. Etching needles\ncan be made of ordinary sewing needles with\npoints of different sharpness, set in wooden\nhandles. A more satisfactory kind, however,\nconsists of a bar of steel about the thickness of\none s little finger in the middle, tapering to a\npoint at each end these needles are more easy\nto work with, as the weight of the needle, or\nrather bar, is enough to penetrate the wax\ncoating on the plate, and the hand is left at\nliberty to draw freely the needle can be sharp-\nened on a sharpening stone. Now proceed to\ndraw on the plate, taking care that the needle\ngoes through the wax and touches the plate\ntake care also that your nail does not remove\nthe ground, or there will be a line where you\ndo not want one. It is a good plan to have a\npiece of board with a hollow about one-fourth\nof an inch deep sunk in it of slightly larger\ndimensions than the copper. Place the plate in\nthis, and have a flat piece of wood like a draw-\ning ruler, which you can place across the hol-\nlow, so that you can etch any part of the plate\nwithout fear of damaging the ground. Draw\nall the darkest lines first then immerse the\nplate in the bath containing the mordant for\nthree hours. Take it out, dry it with blotting\npaper, taking care not to push the wax back\ninto the lines you have drawn draw the next\ndarkest lines, put the plate in the bath for one\nand a half hour, dry it again, draw the lighter\nlines, put it in the bath for three-quarters of\nan hour, dry again and draw the lightest lines,\nand put in bath for three-quarters of an hour.\nThe lines will then have bitten for six hours,\nfour and a half hours, one and a half hour and\nthree-quarters of an hour, according to the\ndarkness you wish to produce. Six hours is\nabout the average time for this biting solution;\nbut it requires a longer time in winter and\nshorter in summer. The ground must now be re-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0219.jp2"},"218":{"fulltext":"Etching.\n206\nEtching.\nmoved with petroleum, and a proof of the plate\nmust be taken to see if there is anything further\nrequired. The etching is much improved by\nbeing touched up with a sharp point, filling up\ngaps you may have left and making the shades\nblend better this is done without acid, of\ncourse, and is more in the style of engraving\nit is termed dry point. Unless you have\nsome experience in copperplate printing send\nthe plate to a regular lithographer, as it will be\nalong time before you can print properly.—\nCorrespondent in English Mechanic,\nAlabaster, to Etch.— Use a ground of white\nwax and oil of turpentine, Mi thickened with\nvery finely powdered white lead, and etch with\nvery dilute acetic or hydrochloric acid.\nBrass, Etching on.— 1. Sixteen parts nitric\nacid (s. g. 1 40), add to 160 parts water dissolve\n6 pt. potassium chlorate in 100 of water. Mix\nthe two solutions.\n2. Many of the etching receipts for copper\napply here Nos. 1, 2, 3 particularly.\n3. For surface printing on brass in the litho-\ngraphic manner, Roret s Manual gives\nGumarabic 8 parts,\nNutgalls 2 parts.\nNitric acid 1 part.\nPhosphoric acid 4 parts.\nWater 30 parts.\nBronze, Etching on.— For etching bronze, the\nfollowing is given in Roret s Manuel du\nGraveur\nPure nitric acid at 40° 100 parts.\nMuriatic acid at 20° 5 parts.\nAlso try any of the copper etching formulas.\nCopper Etching.— 1. (Lalanne.) Nitric acid,\n40°, mixed with equal amount of water, add\npieces of scrap copper.\n2. Nitric or sulphuric acid, 1 part potassium\nbichromate saturated solution, 2 parts water,\n5 parts.\n3. (Dutch Mordant.) Hydrochloric acid (fum-\ning s. g. ri90), 10 parts water, 70 parts then\nadd boiling solution potassium chlorate dilute.\n4. (Roret s.) Distilled vinegar, 1 1. ammo-\nnium chloride, 60 grm. sodium chloride, 60\ngrm.; pure verdigris, 40 grm. Grind up the\nsolids and boil in the vinegar. Acetic acid (at\n3°) may be used in place of vinegar.\n5. Relief Etching.— Nitrous acid (30°), 1 oz.\nsilver acetate, 3 drm. nitric ether (hydrated),\n8 oz. To prepare nitric ether mix 1 oz. alcohol,\n1 oz. nitric acid and stop reaction by adding 4\noz. pure water.\n6. Tint Etching (Roret s).— Bay salt, 2 parts\nammonium chloride, 1 part verdigris, 1 part.\nGrind up with old honey (sirup).\n7. Fielding.— Nitrous acid, 1 part; water, 5\nparts. Used for aquatints.\n8. Callot and Piranesi.— Strong vinegar, 8\nparts verdigris, 4 parts ammonium chloride,\n4 parts; salt, 4 parts; alum, 1 part; water, 16\nparts.\nEtching Brass Signs. Paint the sign with\nasphalt varnish, leaving the parts to be etched\nunpainted, raise a border around the outside,\nmade of soft beeswax or asphalt, to hold the\nacid. Use nitric acid diluted with five times\nthe quantity of water. Pour the dilute acid on\nto the sign about in. deep. When the letters\nare cut deep enough, which must be found by\ntrial, the acid may be poured off and the plate\ncleaned by heating and wiping, and finally with\nturpentine.\nEtching on CutUry.—l. For etching on cut-\nlery a ground wax is required, composed of\nequal parts asphaltum, Burgundy pitch and\nbeeswax, melted together and thoroughly in-\ncorporated. In applying it, use a dabber, or\nball of cotton covered with silk. Warm the\npiece of cutlery so that a stick of the wax will\nreadily melt by touching. Smear a small quan-\ntity of the wax on the blade or articles, and\ndab it evenly all over the surface. When cold,\n6cratch the required design or name on the\nsurface and touch the parts with acid (nitric\nacid 1 part, water 4 to 6 parts), using a camel s\nhair pencil to cover the surface and bring the\nacid into contact with all the lines. In a few\nminutes the biting is done. Dip in hot water\nto wash off the acid, and the surface may be\ncleaned by wiping with benzine. Another way\nis to make a varnish of asphalt and turpentine,\nwith a few drops of linseed oil to make it tacky.\nHave a rubber stamp made of the required de-\nsign, with a border, so as to stop off around the\ndesign. Stamp the goods, and with some of\nthe varnish thinned down with turpentine and\na brush stop off the surrounding parts; or sur-\nround the design with a small rim of beeswax,\nand apply the acid as above.\n2. For etching brands and marks on polished\nsteel surfaces, such as saws, knife blades, and\ntools, where there are many pieces to be done\nalike, procure a rubber stamp with the re-\nquired design made so that the letters and fig-\nure that are to be bitten by the acid shall be\ndepressed in the stamp. Have a plain border\naround the design, large enough to allow a\nlittle border of common putty to be laid around\nthe edge of the stamped design to receive the\nacid. For ink, use resin, lard, oil, turpentine\nand lampblack. To M lb. of resin put 1 tea-\nspoonful lard oil; melt, and stir in a tablespoon-\nful of lampblack; thoroughly mix, and add\nenough turpentine to make it of the consis-\ntency of printer s ink when cold. Use this on\nthe stamp in the same manner as when stamp-\ning with ink. When the plate is stamped, place\na little border of common putty around and\non the edge of the stamped ground. Then\npour within the border enough acid mixture\nto cover the figure, and let it stand a few mo-\nments, according to the depth required, then\npour the acid off. Rinse the surface with clean\nwater; take off the putty border, and clean off\nthe ink with turpentine. Use care not to spill\nthe acid over the polished part of the article.\nFor the acid, 1 part nitric acid, 1 part hydro-\nchloric acid, to 10 parts water by measure. If\nthe effervescence seems too active, add more\nwater. __\nGlass, Liquid for Etching on— 1. This prepar-\nation may be made by mixing sulphate of ba-\nrium and fluoride of ammonium in the pro-\nportion of three parts of the former to one\npart of the latter, with sufficient sulphuric\nacid to decompose the ammonium, and bring\nthe mixture to the consistency of rich milk.\nThe mixture should be made in a receptacle of\nlead, and kept in a bottle of the same material,\nor of gutta percha.\n2. Since fluoric preparations have been pro-\nduced at reasonable prices the decoration of\nglass by their means has steadily made its way.\nEtched glass is now to be found everywhere,\nand glass etching runs glass cutting very hard.\nIt is very easy to understand that well etched\nobjects appear actually more beautiful than\nthose which have been cut. The cost of pro-\nduction is cheaper, and since M. Hock, a V len-\nnese chemist, has given us an elaborate work\nupon the technics of glass etching, the diffi-\nculties attending this kind of work have been\nreduced to a minimum.\nAs is well known, fluoric acid usually etches\nsmooth,, while other fluoric preparations yield\na matt surface. The most beautiful ornamen-\ntation is obtained when certain parts of the\nglass surface are rendered matt by means of\nfluoride of ammonium which has been slightly\nacidified by means of acetic acid. The matt\nappearance is not always the same with differ-\nent kinds of glass, but varies much in beauty;\nthis effect is governed by the composition\nof the glass, lead glasses being easily\nacted upon and furnishing a very fine matt\nsurface.\n3. Where it is desired to have the surface ot\nthe glass not altogether matt, but shining like\nice, as in the case of window glass, this may be\nattained in a simple manner by placing the","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0220.jp2"},"219":{"fulltext":"Etching.\nEtching.\nglass plate in a perfectly horizontal position\nand covering it with fine groats. Then very\ndilute fluoric acid is poured upon it. The\ngroats act as a shield and produce upon the\nglass raised points.\n4. Several ways exist of etching photographs\non glass. A good result may be secured by\ncovering the surface with a solution of gum\nmade sensitive with bichromate of potash, and\nprinting the same under a negative; after the\nimage has been thus produced it is dusted over\nwith minium or red lead, and the red picture\nthus obtained is fixed and burnt in in the usual\nmanner. The easily soluble red glass so ob-\ntained is treated with strong sulphuric acid,\nwhen a white matt design is produced, and the\npicture appears by transmitted light as a posi-\ntive.— Photographisches Archiv.\nEtching Film, for Tracing with a Needle.— Mr.\nH Trueman Wood sends the following to the\nPhotographic News There are many purposes\nin photography for which an opaque film ca-\npable of being- etched with a sharp point might\nbe useful. Such a film can be obtained by use\nof the following formula: Negative collodion,\nYz oz.; ether, 6 drm.; alcohol, 6 drm.; shellac, 30\ngrn.: aurine, 2 grn.; Judson s mauve dye, 30\ndrops; water, 30 drops.\nGrounds for Etching.— I. White wax, 30 parts;\ngum mastic, 30 parts; asphaltum. 15 parts.\n2. White wax, 30 parts; gum mastic, 15 parts;\nasphaltum, 15 parts.\n3. White wax, 60 parts; gum mastic, 30 parts;\nasphaltum, 60 parts.\n4. White wax, 3 parts; block pitch, 1 part;\nasphaltum, 4 parts; rosin, 1 par t.\n5. Callot s ground linseed oil varnish and mas-\ntic; heat until the wax is melted, filter, apply\nwith brush and heat plate until varnish stops\nsmoking.\n6. White wax, 2 oz.; black and Burgundy\npitch, of each oz,.: melt together; add by de-\ngrees powdered asphaltum 2 oz., and boil till a\ndrop taken out on a plate will break when cold\nby being bent double two or three times, pour\ninto warm water and make into small balls.\n7. Soft.— Soft linseed oil, 4 oz.; gum benzoin\nand white wax, of each oz.; boil to two-\nthirds.\nIron, etching on. See Steel below.\nIvory, Etching on.— Use dilute sulphuric and\nhydrochloric acids mixed.\nSilver, to Etch on.— Proceed as for copper or\nbrass, but great care must be used in preparing\na proper ground and in stopping out.\nSteel, to Etch on.—l. Two oz. copper sulphate;\nalum, ]4 oz., salt, )4 oz., mixed with pt. vine-\ngar, and 40 drops nitric acid can be used for\nfrosting the steel.\n2. Glacial acetic acid, 4 parts; absolute al-\ncohol, 1 part; nitric acid, (s. g. 1*28), 1 part; allow\nthe acetic acid and alcohol to remain for half\nhour, then add nitric acid carefully. Etch\nfrom one to fifteen minutes.\n3. Alcohol, 3 parts water (distilled), 5 parts\nnitric acid, 8 parts; silver nitrate, 8 parts.\nWash the plate with very dilute nitrate acid,\nthen apply the solution for three minutes, and\nwash with 6% solution of alcohol. Repeat if\nnecessary.\n4. (Deleschamp s for vertical bite). Silver\nacetate, 2 parts; rectified spirits, 125 parts; dis-\ntilled water, 125 parts; nitric acid, 65 parts; nitric\nether (see No. 5 of copper etching above), 16\nparts, oxalic acid, 1 part.\n5. Iodine, 4 parts; potassium iodide, 10 parts\nwater, 80 parts. This is very highly recom-\nmended.\n6. No. 3 of copper etching above.\n7. (Roret s). Nitric acid, 62 parts; water 125\nparts; alcohol, 187 parts; copper titrate, 8\nparts.\n8. Cover the surface with a thin coat of as-\nphaltum varnish of fine quality, then cut the\ndesign through to the surface of the steel, and\netch with a weak solution of nitric acid in\nwater; finally wash with hot water and re-\nmove the ashphaltum with hot turpentine.\n9. For steel— iodine, 1)4 oz. iron filings,\ndrm.; water, 6 oz. Digest until the iron is dis-\nsolved. For fine touches take 6 parts each\nverdigris, sea salt and sal ammoniac dissolve\nin 12 parts vinegar, add 24 parts water, boil a\nminute and allow to cool.\n10. Clean the steel and cover evenly with wax,\ncut the lines with steel point through the wax\nand pour on the following etching fluid Pyro-\nligneous acid, 4 oz.; alcohol, 1 oz.; nitric acid, 1\noz., by measure. Or use iodine, 1 oz.; iron fil-\nings, Yq drm.; water, 4 oz. Etching fluid is re-\nmoved as soon as the metal is sufficiently\netched.\nZincographic Etching.— 1. The solution most\ncommonly employed for this purpose in use at\nthe Ordnance Survey Office, Southampton, and\ngiven by Sir Henry James in his work on Photo-\nzincography, is as follows 4 oz. Aleppo galls\nare bruised and steeped in 3 qt. of cold water\nfor twenty-four hours; the water and galls\nare then boiled up together and the decoction\nstrained. The gum water should be about the\nconsistency of cream. 1 qt. of the decoction of\ngalls is added to 3 qt. of the gum water, and to\nthe mixture is added abont 3 oz. of phosphoric\nacid, which is prepared by placing sticks of\nphosphorous in a loosely corked bottle of\nwater, so that the ends of the sticks may be\nuncovered. The oxidation of the phosphorous\nproduces phosphoric acid, which dissolves as\nfast as it formed.\nThe etching solution should only just mark a\npiece of plain zinc.\n2. In Richmond s Grammar of Lithography 1\nthe following modifications of this formula are\ngiven\nDecoction of nutgalls M pt.\nGum water as thick as cream J4 pt.\nPhosporic acid solution 3 drm.\nBoil 1J4 oz. of bruised nutgalls an 1J4 lb. of\nwater till reduced to one-third, strain and add 2\ndrm. of nitric and 4 drops of acetic acid.\n3. Husnik gives the following, also vised by\nHannot at the Depot de la Guerre, Brussels\nGum arabic 40 parts\nSulphate of copper.. 2 parts\nGallic acid 5 parts\nNitric acid J^ part\nWater 1,000 parts\n4. Motteroz uses gum water acidulated with\na few drops of muriatic acid, so that it will not\nvisibly bite the plate, or better, decoction of\nnutgalls.\n5. Moock gives:\nWater 100 gr.\nGum arabic. 15 gr.\nNitric acid 2 drops\nor muriatic acid 4 to 5 drops\nSolution of nutgalls 10 gr.\n6. Scamoni has the following, by Garnier\nBoil about 1*4 oz. of bruised gallnuts in a pint\nof water till reduced to filter and add 2\ndrops of nitric acid and 3 to 4 drops of muri-\natic acid. For very fine work this may be\nweakened with water. It is applied for about\na minute, then washed off and the plate gum-\nmed.\nZincotypographic Etching. In biting zinc\nplates in relief, the acid generally used is\nnitric, of different degrees of strength, accord-\ning to the nature and state of the work.\n7. Kruger, in his Die Zinhogravure, recom-\nmends for the first relief etching, nitric acid 30\nto 40 drops to 100 jrm. of water, applied for\nfive minutes. For each subsequent etching 8 to\n.10 drops of acid are added for each 100 grm. of\nwater, and the time is increased by degrees","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0221.jp2"},"220":{"fulltext":"Etching.\n208\nEvaporation.\nfrom five to fifteen minutes. For the final\netching of the broad lights he uses:\nMuriatic acid 4 parts.\nNitric acid 1 part.\nWater 16 parts.\nTo soften down the ridges between the lines\nthe plate is inked and dusted as before, and\netched with dilute nitric acid at 5% applied for\nabout a minute, and the inking, dusting and\netching repeated as often as may be neces-\nsary.\n8. According to Husnik, the first two bitings\nare given with 1 part of nitric acid to 40 of\nwater, the first biting lasting two minutes, the\nsecond four to five minutes. For the third bit-\ning the acid is used double the strength, and\napplied for five minutes. The acid is made\nstronger for each successive biting.\n9. Moock Impression Photographique aux\nEncres Grasses 1 gives a first biting with\nnitric acid at 2% for two or three\nminutes, adding about the same quan-\ntity of acid for five successive bitings,\ngradually increasing the time. After the\nfirst five bitings the plate is thoroughly cleaned,\nstrongly heated, well inked again with a harder\nink, and rebitten with acid as strong as the last\nused the operation is repeated for four more\nbitings, using less heat, and biting less and less\neach time. These last bitings are for smooth-\ning off the edges of the lines.\n10. In his Instruction in Photography\nCaptain Abney gives the following process\nHaving made the- transfer in the usual way,\nand dusted it with resin, flood the surface of\nthe zinc plate with a 10-grn. solution of sul-,\nphate of copper, which precipitates copper on\nthe uncovered parts, and forms a copper-zinc\ncouple. It can then be etched with very dilute\nacid.\nHydrochloric acid 1 part.\nWater 500 to 750 parts.\nThis is contained in a rocking trough kept\nconstantly in motion. The first etching takes\nabout twenty minutes. The plate is then\nwashed and inked, dusted and coppered again,\nand then etched with acid twice as strong, the\noperation being repeated as often as may be\nnecessary.\n11. Deep Etching. For simple etching on\nzinc, Seymour Haden recommends 1 part\nnitric acid to three of water; or,\nHydrochloric acid 10 parts.\nChlorate of potash 2 parts.\nWater 88 parts.\nDissolve the chlorate of potash in half the\nwater (boiling), and mix the hydrochloric acid\nwith the remainder. The two solutions are\nadded together for use.\n12. Kochler Lalanne s Etching says 1 part\nof nitric acid to 8 parts of water is equal in\neffect to equal parts of acid and water used\nwith copper for the same length of time.\n13. A. Martin uses 1 part nitric acid to 2 of\nwater.\n14. Kruger Die Zirikogravure 1 gives:\nSulphate of copper 2 parts.\nChloride of copper 3 parts.\nWater 64 parts.\nMuriatic acid 8 parts.\nalso\nNitric acid 1 part.\nWater 40 parts.\n15. M. Gourdon has proposed a curious pro-\ncess of photo-engraving on zinc, founded on\nM. Merget s discovery that if zinc be covered\nby precipitation with certain metals, it is only\nbitten by nitric acid in the parts left uncov-\nered, while, on the contrary, dilute sulphuric,\nmuriatic, acetic, and other acids will bite it\nonly in the parts covered by the other metal.\nThus, if zinc is covered in parts, as by writing,\nwith a thin coat of powdery platinum, the\nparts covered with the platinum may be etched\nwith sulphuric acid diluted with 7,000 parts of\nwater. If gold be substituted for platinum,\nsulphuric acid diluted with 5,000 parts of water\nwill etch it. Silver requires 3,500 parts water\ntin, 1,500; antimony, 700; bismuth, 500; lead.\n400.\nEtching Varnishes. See Varnishes.\nEther. To find the percentage of ether in\na mixture of ether and alcohol. By finding the\nspecific gravity at 60° F. of a mixture of ether\nand alcohol, the following table will give the\npercentage of absolute ether contained in the\nmixture.\nSpec. Grav.\nPer Cent.\nSpec.Grav.\nPer Cent.\n0-7198\n0-7246\n0-7-293\n0-7343\n0-7397\n0*7455\n0-7514\n100\n95\n90\n85\n80\n75\n70\n0*7673\n0-7636\n0-7701\n0-7772\n0-7840\n0-7880\n65\n60\n55\n50\n45\n40\nEukesis. See Soaps.\nEvaporation. —Sun. Evaporatio (Lat.).\nEvaporation (Fr.). Abdunsten, Abdampfen,\n(Ger.). 1. The dissipation of a fluid by means of\nheat. In chemistry and pharmacy evaporation\nis had recourse to, either for the purpose of re-\ncovering a solid body from its solution, as in\nthe preparation of extracts, chemicals, salts,\netc., or to strengthen a solution by the ex-\npulsion of some of the fluid matter that forms\nthe menstruum. Evaporation is also employed,\nthough less frequently, to purify liquids, by\ndissipating the volatile matters which may\ncontaminate them. Under ordinary circum-\nstances, evaporation is confined to the surface\nof the heated liquid, and is therefore slower or\nquicker in proportion to the extension of that\nsurface. Hence has arisen the adoption of\nwide shallow vessels for containing fluids dur-\ning their exposure to heat for this purpose.\nIt has been found that evaporation proceeds-\nmost rapidly when a current of air is made to\npass over the surface of the fluid, as, in this\ncase, the vapor is prevented resting upon the\nsurface; and impeding the process by its pres-\nsure. On the small scale, shallow capsules of\nglass, wedgwoodware, porcelain or metal, are\ncommonly employed as evaporating vessels,\nand these are exposed to heat by placing them\nover a lamp, or naked fire, or in a water bath,\nor sand bath, according to the temperature at\nwhich it is proper to conduct the process. On\nthe large scale, high pressure steam is usually\nemployed as the source of the heat. The term\nspontaneous evaporation is applied to the\ndissipation of a fluid by mere exposure in open\nvessels, at the common temperature of the\natmosphere, and without the application of\nartificial heat. The celerity of this species of\nevaporation wholly depends on the degree of\nhumidity of the surrounding air, and differs\nfrom the former, in which the rate of evapora-\ntion is proportionate to the degree of heat at\nwhich the process is conducted, and the amount\nof pressure upon the surface of the liquid.\nEvaporation in vacuo (as it is called) is con-\nducted under the receiver of an air pump, or in\nan attenuated atmosphere; produced by filling\na vessel with steam, by which means the air is\nexpelled, when all communication with the\nexternal atmosphere is cut off, and the vapor\ncondensed by the application of cold. Fluids\nare also evaporated in air tight receivers over\nsulphuric acid, by which they are continually\nexposed to the action of a very dry atmos-\nphere. When such a receiver is connected\nwith an air pump in action, evaporation pro-\nceeds with increased rapidity, and intense\ncold is produced.— Cooley.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0222.jp2"},"221":{"fulltext":"Excoriation.\n209\nExtracts.\n2. The object of this may be to separate\nvolatile liquids from others less so; to con-\ncentrate or strengthen solutions by getting\nrid of a portion of the liquid they contain\n—condense them; to restore substances to\ntheir solid condition; to promote crystalliza-\ntion, etc. The vessels used for this process\nshould be broad and shallow, in order to ex-\npose a large surface of their contents, and it is\nfacilitated by heat, currents of air, dryness of\nthe atmosphere, etc. If the process can be\nconducted in pans which are covered, or in\nvacuum pans where the pressure of the atmos-\nphere can be removed, the substance will\nevaporate more rapidly. On a small scale\nevaporation can be carried on in porcelain\nevaporing dishes, and using an alcohol lamp or\nBunsen burner. Place a piece of wire gauze\nunder the dish.\nExcoriation. Syn. Excoriatio, (from ex-\ncorio, to flay, or to cut off the skin.) An abra-\nsion.— Young children are very apt to be\nchafed under the ai ms, behind the ears, be-\ntween the thighs, and in the wrinkles and folds\nof the skin, unless great attention is paid to\ncleanliness, and wiping the skin perfectly dry\nafter washing. Whenever there is a tendency\nto excoriations of this kind, either in adults or\nchildren, a little finely powdered starch, or\nviolet powder, applied by means of a puff, or a\nsmall bag of muslin, once or twice a day, will\ngenerally remove them, and prevent their oc-\ncurrence in future. Mild unguents, as cold\ncream, or spermaceti cerate or ointment, may\nalso be used with advantage. The preference\nshould, however, be given to the former rem-\nedies from their not soiling the linen. Excori-\nations arising from the removal of the skin by\nfriction or external violence, have already\nbeen noticed under the head abrasion.\nExpectorants. Medicines that promote\nthe secretion of the tracheal and bronchial\nmucus.\nExpression.— Is required to separate the\nlast portions of tinctures, infusions, etc.; also\nthe juices of fresh plants, fruits, etc., after\nbeing properly crushed. A screw press is best\nfor this purpose, but strong bags, and various\nother means may be made use of.\nExtinguishing Compounds. See Fire.\nExtracts. See Perfumes.\nExtracts. See Soaps.\nExtracts.— Different fluids, acetic, alcoholic\nand ethereal, are used as solvents in the pre-\nparation of extracts, as may be best adapted to\nthe solubility of the substance from which the\nextract is being prepared; and the solution is\neffected by either maceration, percolation, in-\nfusion or decoction, as circumstances require.\nThe solution thus obtained is poured off, and\nthe remaining soluble matter either pressed or\nwashed out and added to the solution; it is next\nallowed time to settle, then decanted and\nstrained or filtered, and if this fails to render\nthe liquid clear it is clarified by white of\negg and filtered, Canton flannel, first soak-\ned in water, being generally employed for\nthis purpose. When water acidulated with\nacetic acid is employed, vegetable sub-\nstances are usually macerated in it, or\nthe dilute acid is sprinkled over the bruised\nplant, if fresh, and the juice expressed by strong\npressure. The solution thus obtained, or the\njuice when obtained by expression from fresh\nsubstances, is then evaporated by rapid boiling\nuntil thick enough to cause some risk of burn-\ning, when it must be completed either by a\nbath or by the slower process of exposure\nin an evaporating dish, heated air, etc., to a\nproper consistence.\nExtracts, Fluid.— This form of pi-eparations\nwas introduced into the United States Pharma-\ncopoeia for the first time in 1850 as a distinct\nclass of preparations. Their distinctive char-\nacter is the concentration of the active ingre-\ndients of a substance into a small bulk and in\nliquid form. Their advantages consist in greater\nconvenience of administration, and in the fact\nthat, from the less degree of evaporation to\nwhich they have been subjected, the active\nprinciples they contain are less liable to have\nsuffered injury by heat. The main difficulty\nlies in their liability to undergo spontaneous\ndecomposition. This is counteracted in some\ncases by the addition of sugar, in others by al-\ncohol, and in others again by a mixture of both.\nSome fluid extracts when combined with sugar\nhave a tendency to precipitation, rendering\nthem turbid or cloudy in appearance. To ob-\nviate this Mr. Alfred B. Taylor has proposed the\nuse of glycerine, which, while it has the same\npreservative influence, possesses the property\nof dissolving the matter which would be depos-\nited by the use of sugar. The solutions for pre-\nparing them are obtained by percolation, and\nthe menstruum used is alcohol or alcohol and\nwater, the proportions of each depending on\nthe nature of the substance to be extracted.\nCherry.— Oil of bitter almonds, 2 drm.; apple\noil, loz.; citric acid, 1 oz.; alcohol, 70°, 2 pt.\nCinchona. 16 oz. yellow cinchona bark in\ncoarse powder, sufficient distilled water, 1 oz.\nrectified spirit; macerate the bark in 40 oz.\nwater for twenty-four hours, pack in a perco-\nlator and add water until 240 oz. have passed\nthrough, or until the bark is exhausted; evap-\norate the liquor to 20 oz. at a temperature not\nexceeding 160° E. (71° C); filter and continue\nthe evaporation to 3 oz., or until the sp. gr. of\nthe liquid is 1*200; when cold add the spirit\ngradually, constantly stirring.\nCocoa.— Dissolve 1 lb. of chocolate in a qt. of\nboiling water, let it cool; take out the cocoa\nbutter and add to it 4 oz. of glycerine and bot-\ntle. For flavoring ice cream.\nCompound Coffee, Extracts, (for Dispensing).\n1. Ground Java coffee, 8oz.; sliced vanilla bean,\n2 drm.; diluted alcohol, q. s.\n2. Ground roasted coffee, 2 to 8 oz.; cinnamon,\nbruised, 60 grn.; vanilla, sliced, 60grn.; diluted\nalcohol, q. s. Moisten the ingredients with\nsome of the liquid and pack in percolator. Put\nin enough diluted alcohol to leave a stratum\nabove it. Macerate for forty-eight hours, cov-\nered; percolate, pour on enough diluted alcohol\nuntil 32 fluid oz. of extract is obtained.\nCoffee, Extracts, Plain. For Dispensing (Lie-\nbig s).— Pour 1 qt. boiling water on 2 lb. of best\nground coffee; allow it to stand one hour, place\nin a percolator; add enough water to obtain 32\nfluid oz. of extract; add 2 oz. of alcohol to pre-\nserve, or more alcohol if intended to keep a\nlong time.\nCoffee.— Pour upon a pound of the best fresh\nroasted coffee 1 qt. of cold water, heat gently\nfor half hour, then let it come to a boil, cool\nfor two hours, strain and add 4 oz. of glycerine.\nErgot.— Sixteen oz. ergot in coarse powder,\n20 oz. ether, 70 oz. distilled water, 8 oz. rectified\nspirit. Shake the ether in a bottle with half its\nbulk of the water, and after separation decant\nthe ether. Place the ergot in a percolator, and\ntree it from oil by passing the washed ether\nthrough it; remove the marc and digest it in\nthe remainder of the water for twelve hours\nat 160° F. (71° C). Press out the liquor and\nevaporate it to 9 oz., and when cold add the 8\noz. spirit; allow it to stand for an hour to\ncoagulate; filter, and make up the quantity to\n16 oz.\nFoam Extract.— Crushed soap bark, y z lb.;\nalcohol, ^j pt.; glycerine, ]4 Pt-; water, 1 pt.\nThe bark should be saturated with 3 oz. of the\nmixture of alcohol, glycerine and water. Pack\nin a percolator, close the lower orifice; add\nenough liquid to leave a stratum above the\nbark; then macerate for twenty-four hours,\nand percolate; add of alcohol, glycerine and\nwater in the above proportions enough to\nobtain 1 qt. of extract.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0223.jp2"},"222":{"fulltext":"Extracts.\n210\nExtracts.\nThe proportions are from 1 drm. to )4 oz. to 2\nqt. of sirup, according to the foam desired on\nthe beverage.\nGinger Extract.— For extract of ginger pro-\nceed as follows: Take of ginger in No. 40\npowder 50 oz. avoirdupois, alcohol enough to\nmake 3 pt. Pack in a percoiator, first moisten-\ning with 14 fluid oz. alcohol. Add enough\nalcohol to leave a stratum above the powder.\nWhen it begins to percolate close the lower\norifice, cover the top of the percolator closely,\nand let it stand for forty-eight hours. Then\nopen and allow to percolate until exhausted.\nReserve the first 43 fluid oz. of the percolate.\nEvaporate the remainder to a soft paste, dis-\nsolve this in the reserved portion, and add\nenough alcohol to make the fluid extract\nmeasure 3 pt. The dose is from 10 to 20\nminims.\nGinger, for Dispensing (Creuse s Process).—\nFluid extract of ginger, 114 pt-* water, 3 pts.;\ncarbonate of magnesia, 3 oz. Mix, shake often\nfor twenty-four hours, filter, evaporate to\npint and add pt. alcohol.\nGinger Ale Extract.— Soluble essence of gin-\nger, V/% pt.; essence of lemon, soluble, 1% oz.;\nessence of ginger oil, soluble, 1)4 oz.; extract\nof vanilla, soluble, 1)4 oz.; soluble essence rose\noil, oz.; tincture cinnamon, soluble, 1)4 drm.;\nartificial essence pineapple, drm.; essence\ncapsicum, 3 drm.; mix.\nMalt.— 1. An infusion of malt is made in\nwater at 160° to 170° F. (71° to 77° C), drained\noff without pressure, and evaporated to a\nhoneylike consistence. The quantities are— 1\npt. crushed malt in 3 pt. hot water, and the\ninfusion occupies about four hours.\n2. 47^j oz. extract of malt, mixed with 1 oz.\niron pyrophosphate and ammonia citrate dis-\nsolved in V/% oz. water.\n3. Six oz. coltsfoot leaves, 6 oz. spotted lung-\nwort, 8 oz. licorice, 2 lb. stoned raisins, 6 gal.\nold strong ale, not hopped; boil down to 4 gal.,\nexpress strongly, and evaporate to honeylike\nconsistence.\nMead.— Oil of lemon, 1 oz.; oil of cloves, 2\ndrm.; oil of cinnamon, 2 drm.; oil of nutmeg, 1\ndrm.; oil of allspice, 30 drops; oil of sassafras,\n40 drops; oil of ginger, 1 drm. Cut the oils\nwith pumice and sugar; dissolve 16 or 32 oz.\nalcohol. Add gradually an equal quantity of\nwater. Clarify.\nMeat.— One oz. lean meat, recently killed,\nchopped very small; 8 oz. cold water; shake\nwell together for ten minutes; heat gradually\nto boiling; let simmer gently for a few min-\nutes; strain through a hair sieve while still\nhot; evaporate to a soft mass. One lb. meat\nyields barely 1 oz. Liebig.\nMyrrh.— Compound.— 2 oz. myrrh, 2 drm. gum\narabic powder; triturate, add water enough to\nform a thick emulsion and 4 oz. extract of\ncouch grass.\nOpium.— 1. One lb. opium in thin slices, 6 pt.\ndistilled water; macerate the opium in 2 pt. of\nthe water for twenty-four hours; express the\nliquor. Reduce the residual opium to a uni-\nform pulp, macerate again in 2 pt. of the water\nfor twenty-four hours; express; repeat the\noperation a third time; mix the liquors, strain\nthrough flannel and evaporate by a water bath\nto pilular consistence.\n2. One and a half lb. powdered opium, 2)4 pt.\ncold distilled water; mix gradually; macerate\nfor twenty-four hours, frequently stirring\nwith a spatula; press, strain and repeat the\nmaceration for twenty-four hours with a\nfresh 2)4 pt. water; evaporate the mixed\nstrained liquors to a proper consistence.\n3. Sixteen oz. distilled water, 4 oz. rectified\nspirit: digest the extract of opium in the\nwater for an hour, stirring frequently; filter;\nadd the spirit.\n4. One oz. opium, 1 qt. distilled vinegar;\ndigest two days with heat; decant, filter, evap-\norate.\n5. Four oz. aqueous extract, 1 oz. resin; beat\nwell together; add 16 oz. boiling water; boil to\none-half; add 8 oz. cold water, filter, evaporate.\n6. Four oz. opium, 4 oz. sugar, lqt. water; rub\ntogether and keep the mixture loosely covered\nin a warm situation, about 70° F. (21° O), for\nten days or more; add 1 qt. cold water; next\nday filter and evaporate.\n7. One oz. unstrained mixture of opium, 8 oz.\nwater and a little yeast; leave for a week at a\ntemperature of 68° to 77° F. (20 b to 25° C);\ndilute, filter and evaporate.\nFluid Extract of Orange Peel.— Mr. M. Bond,\nin the Journal of Pharmacy, describes an im-\nproved method of preparing this extract. The\nprocess, concisely stated, is as follows:\nSweet orange peel, in moder-\nately fine powder 16 oz.\nGlycerine 3 fl. oz.\nAlcohol q. s.\nWater q. s.\nHaving mixed 14 fl. oz. alcohol with 2 fl. oz..\nglycerine, the peel is moistened in a Wedg-\nwood mortar with 12 fl. oz. of this mixture.\nAfter standing twelve hours percolation is\nconducted in the usual manner. The percola-\ntion is finished with a mixture of 2 parts alco-\nhol and 1 part water. Reserving the first 14 fl.\noz., add 1 fl. oz. of glycerine to the remainder,\nevaporate to 2)4 A- oz., which mix with the re-\nserved portion. The author describes this\npreparation as possessing all the aroma of the\norange peel. One fl. oz. mixed with 15 fl. oz. of\nsirup gives an excellent sirup, aurant. quite\nclear. By adding to a pint of simple sirup 4 fl.\ndrm. of the extract and a few drops of solution\nof citric acid, a most delicately flavored and\nunfermentable sirup for mineral waters is\nproduced.\nPeach.— Oil of almonds, 3 drm.; pineapple oil,\n3 drm.; tartaric acid, 3 drm.; alcohol, 80°, ly 2\npt.\nPineapple.— Pineapple essence, 2 oz.; citric\nacid, loz.; alcohol, 80°, 2 pt.\nRaspberry.— Raspberry essence, 3 drm.; tinc-\nture of orris, oz.; citric acid, oz.; liq.\ncarmine, 15 drops; extract rose (from pomade),\n34 oz.; alcohol, 85°, M pt.\nRhubarb.— 1. Eight oz. sliced or bruised rhu-\nbarb, 5 oz. rectified spirit, 50 oz. distilled water;\nmacerate four days; strain and set to subside;\ndecant the clear, strain, mix, and evaporate to\na proper consistence over a water bath at 160°\nF. (71° C).\n2. Compound.— Three drm. extract rhubarb, 1\ndrm. extract of aloes, softened with 4 drm.\nwater; evaporate to an extract; dry in a warm\nplace, and powder.\nSarsaparilla.— 3. Sixteen oz. Jamaica sarsa-\nparilla cut transversely, 280 oz. distilled water\nat 160° F. (71° C), 1 oz. rectified spirit; macerate\nin half the water for six hours, and decant the\nliquor; digest the residue in the remainder of\nthe water for six hours more, mix the liquors,\nexpress and filter; evaporate by a water bath\nto 7 oz., or until it has a sp. gr. of 1*130; when\ncold, add the spirit.\n4. Three and a half lb. sarsaparilla, 3 gal.\ndistilled water; boil to 12 pt.; pour off the li-\nquor, and strain while hot; again boil the sar-\nsaparilla in 2 gal. water to half, and strain;\nevaporate the mixed liquors to 18 fluid oz.;\nwhen cold, add 2 fluid oz. rectified spirit.\n5. One lb. sarsaparilla, 4 pt. boiling water;\ndigest two hours; bruise the root, boil for two\nhours, filter, and express the liquid; repeat the\ndecoction with 2 pt. water, as before; evapo-\nrate the mixed liquids to the consistence of a\nthin sirup, and when cold enough add sufficient\nrectified spirit to make up 16 fluid oz.\n6. One lb. sarsaparilla; proceed as before;\nadd sufficient rectified spirit to make the pro-\nduct up to 20 fluid oz.\n7. Sixteen oz. bruised sarsaparilla; 2 oz.\nbruised licorice root, 2 oz. rasped guaiacum\nwood, 2 oz. sliced sassafras bark, 6 drm. sliced","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0224.jp2"},"223":{"fulltext":"Eyebrow.\n211\nEyes.\nmezereon, 7 pt. spirit (sp. gr. 935 13 u. p.);\ndigest fourteen days, express, filter, evaporate\nto 12 fluid oz.; add 8 oz. sugar; as soon as this\nis dissolved, withdraw the heat.\n8. Sixteen oz. sarsaparilla, 2 oz. licorice\nroot, 2 oz. sassafras, 360 grn. mezereon, all in\nfine powder; 4 oz. glycerine, 8 oz. rectified\nspirit, 4 oz. water; macerate in a closed perco-\nlator for four days; let the percolation com-\nmence, and finish it by adding diluted alcohol\n(equal volumes of alcohol at 0 835 and water),\nuntil 2 pt. have been obtained. Reserve the\nfirst 12 oz., having added 4 oz. glycerine to the\nremainder of the percolate, which evaporate\nto 6 oz., and mix with the reserved portion.\n9. There are different kinds of sarsaparilla\nextract; that most commonly used is the so-\ncalled sarsaparilla sirup, for soda water; it is\nmade by adding to 1 gal of simple sirup 10 drops\nof anise oil, 20 drops of wintergreen oil, 6 oz.\nof caramel or burnt sugar for coloring and 20\ndrops of oil of sassafras, while the sarsaparilla\nis left out simply for the sake of economy.\nThe oils-should be first placed on some sugar\nand rubbed in a mortar, or mixed with some\nstrong alcohol before adding them to the sirup.\nThe honest fluid extract of sarsaparilla is, how-\never, made by cutting the roots very fine, or\nbuying them in powdered condition, and moist-\nen 16 oz. with y% pt. of diluted alcohol; let it\nstand half an hour, pack it closely in a per-\ncolator, cover the surface with a disk of cloth,\nmuslin or linen, to prevent the disturbance of\nthe powder, and pour on gradually 2 pt. of\nalcohol diluted with 1 pt. of water; when passed\nthrough, evaporate at a moderate heat, say\n150° F., on a water bath to 1 pt., add 10 oz.\nsugar and strain while hot. It is seen that\nboiling is not applied, as the heat of 212° F.\ndestroys the essential virtues of the drug.\nThere is also a compound extract of sarsapa-\nrilla made like the above, with the addition of\na little guaiacum wood, pale rose senna and lic-\norice root. After preparation, a few drops\nof anise, sassafras and gaultheria oil are added\nin the manner above mentioned. The lat-\nter compound extract is also very often\nmade by druggists with the sarsaparilla en-\ntirely left out; therefore, the only way to be\nsure that you have the sarsaparilla in, is to\nmake the extract yourself.\nStrawberry Pineapple oil, 1% oz.; tincture\nof orris, M oz.; tartaric acid, oz.; alcohol, 80°,\niy 2 pt.\nSoup Extract.— Boil your vegetables for six\nhours in a bain marie and squeeze. In the\nliquor which comes from the vegetables, bones\nand beef are boiled for the same length of time\nas the vegetables. The fluid is then strained\noff and on cooling the fat is skimmed off and\nafter a while a part of the fat is added again\ntogether with 30% salt. It is then evaporated\ntill it has the consistency of sirup.\nVanilla.— Cut up fine 1 oz. vanilla bean, grind\nwith 2 oz. of loaf sugar, in a mortar, mix 8 oz.\nof rose water and 21 oz. of alcohol 95°, add a\nportion to the vanilla and sugar, put in a dis-\nplacer and pour on the balance of diluted al-\ncohol. Add a few drops of caramel if not dark\nenough.\nWalnut Shells. A preparation with this\nharmless appellation is put up by a Berlin firm,\nbut it contains, according to Schadler, a little\nnitrate of silver and chromate of copper in am-\nmoniacal water used for the hair.\nThe above is but one specimen selected to\nshow that humbugs are pretty equally dis-\ntributed over the earth s surface, including\nChina, while at the same time we are pleased\nto notice that some of our American prepara-\ntions are totally harmless, while others are even\nuseful and beneficial. We hope at the same\ntime to have satisfied a pardonable curiosity in\nsome of our readers. See the Hair.\nEyebrow, Pencil. See Cosmetics.\nEyelaslies.— Deficient Color.— The following-\npreparation may be carefully applied twice\ndaily on the external aspect of the skin near\nthe root.\nSulphur sublimed 1 oz.\nTincture of cantharides 1 oz.\nWhite wax 8 oz.\nGlycerine 2 oz.\nMelt the wax and add the other ingredients and\nstir.\nDye for the Eyelashes.— Black.— Wash the\nlashes in Goulard water and afterward apply\nthe following with a small brush\nSublimed sulphur 1 part.\nLard 4 parts.\nGlycerine 2 parts.\nMelt the lard and mix in the glycerine and sul-\nphur. Let it stand until cool.\nIngrowth.— The lashes of either lid must be\nheld transversely with a pair of tweezers or\nforceps and curled away from the eyeball they\nmay be previously moistened with pure glycer-\nine or egg. This should be repeated daily.\nLotion for the Eyebrows.— The composition of\nthe sample which you send us is, as near as we\ncan make out, camphor, oil of rosemary, chlo-\nride of ammonium, common salt, spirit and\nwater. Try the following formula\nCommon salt 1 drm.\nChloride of ammonium 10 grn.\nCamphor 5 grn.\nOil of rosemary 10 drops.\nRectified spirit 1 drm.\nWater to 1 oz.\nDissolve the oil and camphor in the spirit, the\nsalts in the water, and mix.\nEyelashes, to Stimulate the Growth of.— Col-\nogne, 2 oz. liquid hartshorn, 1 drm. tincture\ncantharides, 2 drm. oil rosemary, 12 drops\nlavender, 12 drops.\nEyelids, Granulated.— The trouble is com-\nmonly caused by a weak and impure state of\nthe blood. Use sulphur and iron tonics for the\nblood and wash the eyes regularly, three times\na day, with the following: Pure sulphate of\nzinc, 3 grn. tincture of opium, 10 drops water.\n2 oz.\nEyes, The, The Care of.— At the sanitary\nconvention held at Ann Arbor, Mich., not long\nago, Dr. C. J. Lundy, of Detroit, read a paper\non Hygiene in Relation to the Eye, which\nshould have the widest circulation, especially\namong teachers and school officers. A fruitful\nsource of eye troubles is shown to be the ex-\ncessive strain upon the muscles and nerves of\nthe eyes due to faulty educational methods, the\nill-planned and insufficient lighting of school\nrooms, poor ink and fine print in school books,\nand other causes which education might cor-\nrect. In conclusion, Dr. Lundy laid down the\nfollowing rules for the better care of the eyes\n1. Avoid reading and study by poor light.\n2. Light should come from the side, and not\nfrom the back or front.\n3. Do not read or study while suffering great\nbodily fatigue or during recovery from illness.\n4. Do not read while lying down.\n5. Do not use the eyes too long at a time for\nnear work, but give them occasional periods of\nrest.\n6. Reading and study should be done syste-\nmatically.\n7. During study avoid the stooping position,\nor whatever tends to produce congestion of\nthe head and face.\n8. Select well printed books,\n9. Correct errors of refraction with proper-\nglasses.\n10. Avoid bad hygienic conditions and the\nuse of alcohol and tobacco.\n11. Take sufficient exercise in the open air.\n12. Let the physical keep pace with the men-\ntal culture, for asthenopia is most usually\nobserved in those who are lacking in physical\ndevelopment.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0225.jp2"},"224":{"fulltext":"Eyes.\n313\nEyes.\nAnother set of rules which gives additional\ninformation on the care of the eyes are drawn\nup to serve as a guide to students and others\nworking- by artificial light\n1. If the work be carried on at a table, the\ncover should be green.\n2. If the light be given from a lamp or can-\ndle, it should be so covered with a shade as to\nprevent the glare from falling on the eye.\n3. It will, in addition, be advantageous to\nhave the candle or lamp covered with a globe\nor chimney of tinted glass; which may be\ngreen, blue, or opaline.\n4. If gas is used it may be brought down by\nmeans of an india-rubber pipe to a lamp placed\non the table, which may be arranged as before\nrecommended.\n5. If this cannot well be done, the gas globes\nmay be of tinted glass, and the person should\nwear a shade over the eyes, or should sit with\nhis back to the light.\n6. If there is any defect of vision, compen-\nsating glasses should be worn, and they may\nbe made of tinted glass.\nReading by firelight is also injurious on ac-\ncount of the glare, the quickly repeated dila-\ntations and contractions of the iris, due to the\nchanges in the intensity of the light, and the\nfrequent alteration of the accommodation of\nthe eye which the latter necessitates. Persons\nas cooks, compelled to work before a strong-\nfire, should, if they experience any ocular in-\nconvenience from the practice, wear smoked\nglasses.\nWhere the eyes are easily irritated by the\nwind or sun, etc., the daily use of one of the\neyewashes to be recommended for weak eyes\nwill be beneficial, as also a solution of camphor\nin rose water in the proportion of 1 to 8.\nEif Ointments, Eye Salves.— These prepara-\ntions, even those that are used as cosmetics, or\nthat fall within the range of domestic medi-\ncine, in general require such care in their prepa-\nration as to render them unfit articles of\ndomestic manufacture. Slight errors in the\nproportions of the ingredients, or neglect to\nreduce the hard or gritty substances which\nenter into their composition to impalpable\npowder, has often been followed by very\nserious consequences, and even blindness. The\nfollowing are a few advertised proprietary arti-\ncles of the class, which, like all other nostrums,\nas a rule should be avoided by the reader\n1. Sugar of lead 1 drm.\nRed precipitate 1 drm.\nCamphor 6 grn.\nFresh butter (washed) 2J^ oz.\n3. Verdigris (levigated) }4 drm.\nOlive oil 1 fl. drm.\ntriturate them together, and then add, of\nYellow basilicon 1 oz.\nA popular nostrum in the cases noticed under\nNo. 4 (infra), especially in those of a scrofulous\nnature. f\n3. Marshall s eye cerate.— Take-\nSugar of lead ^drm.\nCalomel 1 drm.\nCitrine ointment 2 drm.\nPalm oil 5 drm.\nand carefully triturate them together, in a\nWedgwood- ware mortar, as in No 1. In exco-\nriations of the eyelids, chronic inflammations\nand ulcerations, blear eyes, etc. in each largely\ndiluted, to be safe.\nStye Lotion.— Camphor water, }4 oz. muriate\nof morphia, 1 grn.\nA Cure for Sties.— Among the most trouble-\nsome and often noticed eye affections are what\nare known as hordeolum, or common stye. Dr.\nLouis FitzPatrick, in the Lancet, differs from\nsome of his professional brethren, who persist\nin ordering the application of poultices, bath-\ning with tepid water, etc. These no doubt do\ngood in the end, but such applications have the\ngreat disadvantage of prolonging the career of\nthese unsightly sores, and encourage the pro-\nduction of fresh ones. Dr. FitzPatrick has\nfound, after many trials, the local application\nof tincture of iodine exert a well-marked in-\nfluence in checking the growth. This is by far\npreferable to the nitrate of silver, which makes\nan unsightly mark, and often fails in its object.\nThe early use of the iodine acts as a prompt\nabortive. To apply it the lids should be held\napart by the thumb and index finger of the left\nhand, while the iodine is painted over the in-\nflamed papilla with a fine camel hair pencil.\nThe lids should not be allowed to come in con-\ntact until the part touched is dry. A few such\napplications in the twenty-four hours is suffi-\ncient.\nWatery Eyes.— The eyes are tender, cannot\nbear a strong light, and there is an abundant\nsecretion of tears. Treatment If acute, that\nis, coming on suddenly and from some injury\ndue to dust, etc., they should be bathed in\n1. Warm water 1 part.\nPoppy decoction I part.\nChronic cases are best treated by astringents,\nas—\n3. Sulphate of zinc V/% grn.\nWater 1 oz.\n3. Alum 2 grn.\nWater 1 oz.\n4. Sulphate of copper V grn.\nWater 1 oz.\n5. Nitrate of silver 1 grn.\nWater 1 oz.\n6. Acetate of zinc t 1]4 grn.\nWater 1 oz.\n7. Diacetate of lead 11 grn\nWater 1 oz.\nThe subsequent treatment of acute cases,\nafter the inflammation has subsided, may be\nsimilar to that of the chronic.\nRectified spirit, 1 part, and water, 8 parts,\nmay be used as a lotion to chronic cases.\nEye Waters.\n1. Distilled vinegar. 1 fl. oz.\nDistilled water 9 fl. oz.\nMix. In simple chronic ophthalmia, weak and\nblear eyes, etc.; also to remove minute parti-\ncles of lime from the eyes. One-half fl. oz. of\nrectified spirit or 1. fl. oz. of good brandy is\noften added and improves it where there is\nlaxness of the membranes.\n3. Sulphate of zinc 30 grn.\nDistilled water J^pt.\nDissolve. An excellent astringent eye water,\nfor chronic ophthalmia and in ordinary oph-\nthalmia, as soon as the inflammatory symp-\ntoms subside; also in weak, lax, watery, irri-\ntable eyes, etc. If there be much pain and irrita-\nbility, 5 or 6 grains of acetate of morphia (not\nhydrochlorate) or 3 fl. dr. of wine of opium\nmay be added.\n3. Alum (crushed small) 10 grn.\nSulphate of zinc 10 grn.\nDistilled water £lpt.\nDissolve. Use, etc., as the last.\n4. Acetate (sugar) of lead 10 to 12 grn.\nDistilled vinegar 1 teaspoonf ul.\nDistilled water J^ pt.\nDissolve. Uses, etc., as No. 2, particularly for\nchildren.\n5. Sulphate of copper 8 to 10 grn.\nCamphor julep J£ pt.\nDissolve. In the purulent ophthalmia of\ninfants and early childhood. The nostrum,\nBate s Eye Water, has a similar composition,\nbut is weaker.\n6. Chloride of barium .30 grn.\nDistilled water J^pt.\nDissolve. In the ophthalmia of scrofulous\nand syphilitic patients. It often affords relief","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0226.jp2"},"225":{"fulltext":"Eyes.\n213\nFeet.\nwhen other washes fail. When the eyes are\nvery irritable, 5 or 6 or even 8 grn. of hydro-\nchlorate of morphia may be added with ad-\nvantage.\n7. Sal ammoniac (pure) 1 drm.\nDistilled water ^pt.\nDissolve. In similar cases to Nos. 1 and 2\nalso to arrest the progress and prevent the\naccession of sties, etc., 1 fl. oz. of distilled vin-\negar, or y% fl. oz. of rectified spirit (or both), is\nsometimes added to it, and renders it more ac-\ntive. When there is much pain and irritation, 5\nor 6 grn. of hydrochlorate of morphia, or 2 or 3\nfl. drm, of wine of opium, is a useful addi-\ntion.\n8. Solution of acetate of am-\nmonia 2)4 fl. oz.\nRose water 2^ fl. oz.\nCamphor julep 5 fl. oz.\nMix. A grateful and useful application to\nweak and swollen eyes, particularly after oph-\nthalmia.\n9. Hydrochlorate (or acetate) of\nmorphia 5 to 8 grn.\nDistilled water 511. oz.\nDissolve. In pain and extreme irritability of\nthe organ, even during the acute stages of oph-\nthalmia. Camphor julep is often used instead\nof water. When morphia is unobtainable, 2 or 3\nfl. drm. of wine of opium or 3 or 4 fl. drm. of\nlaudanum may be substituted, though inferior\nto it.\n10. Opium (Turkey, pure) 10 to 15 grm.\nDistilled water (boiling) J4 pint.\nDissolve. In the same cases as the last. One-\nhalf to 1 fl. oz. of solution of acetate of am-\nmonia is often added.\n11. Goulard s Eye Water\nSolution of diacetate of lead (Goulard s Ex-\ntract), 15 or 16 drops (minims). Distilled water,\nnone other, y% pt.\nMix. Uses, etc., similar to No. 4.\n12. (Krimer).—\nHydrochloric acid lfl. drm.\nMucilage 3 or 4 drm.\nWater .6 oz.\nMix. Used to remove minute particles of lime,\nmortar or iron from the eye, which it effects by\nits solvent action.\nObserve.— Eye waters should be perfectly clear\nand free from any floating matter, however\ntrifling. To secure this it is in general neces-\nsary either to filter them through bibulous\npaper, or a piece of clean, fine calico, or to care-\nfully decant them after sufficient repose to\nallow the impurities to subside. When pure\ndistilled water is used in their preparation, only\nsome of them will require this. In using them\na little of the liquid should be poured into a\nclean cup, gallipot, or glass, or into the clean\npalm of the left hand, when the eyes should\nbe thoroughly wetted with it, either by means\nof a small piece of clean sponge or soft white\nrag, or the clean tips of the fingers of the\nright hand. In all cases it is advisable to\nbathe or wash the eyes in tepid water, and\nto wipe them dry before the application of\nthe eye water and in most cases, this is abso-\nlutely necessary to insure benefit from their\nuse.\nEyes Artificial, to Repolish— The glass can be\nmade smooth by the use of moist washed flour\nemery, after which it is polished with fine col-\ncothar or rouge moistened with water, with\nrubbers of hat felt, finishing with a little moist-\nened putty powder.\nInsects Eyes, to Mount.— Collect the insects\nand carefully cut off each eye, then put the\nwhole of them in a weak solution of caustic\npotash for a few days until when examined\nunder the microscope the eye appears free\nfrom dirt, then take them out carefully and\npartly dry them between blotting paper, after-\nward putting them in turpentine. Leave them\nin the turpentine for a day, then take out one\nat a time and lay it upon the glass slide on\nwhich you intend to mount it, then carefully\ndrop a spot of Canada balsam on to the eye and\nwarm the glass until the balsam has spread all\nround the eye, and then put the cover glass on\nthe top of balsam, gently pressing it down un-\ntil the eye is mounted well.\nEyes, Paint for Black. See Rouges and\nFace Paints.\nFabrics, to Bleach. See If leaching.\nFabrics, Textile. See Fireproonng.\nFabrics, to Waterproof. See Water-\nproofing.\nFace Paints. See Rouges and Face\nPaints.\nFace Powders. See Powders.\nFaience.— A name given to earthenware,\nenameled with painted designs and glazed. So\ncalled from its being made at Faenza; some-\ntimes called Raphael ware or majolica.\nFainting.— Nothing more is necessary, or-\ndinarily, than to lay a person who has fainted\ndown in a current of air, or where the air from\nan open window or door will play upon his\nface, and he will recover in a few minutes. If\nin a street or other open place, persons should\nbe prevented from crowding closely around.\nThe clothes also may be opened and cold water\nsprinkled upon the face, hands and chest, and\nsome pungent substance, as smelling salts,\ncamphor, aromatic vinegar, etc., may be ap-\nplied to the nostrils; and as soon as able to\nswallow, a little fresh water, or spirits and\nwater may be given. Persons who faint easily\nshould avoid crowded rooms and places where\nthe air is close. See also Accidents.\nFans, Varnish for. See Varnishes.\nFat Oil. Very thick turpentine.\nFeathers, to Rronze. See Bronzing.\nFeathers, Crushed and Bent.— To re-\nstore when feathers are bent and out of curl,\nthey should be exposed to steam, or else put in\nboiling water for one minute, when they should\nbe taken out and laid in temperate water for\nsome time.\nFeathers, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nFeathers, to Bye. See Byeing.\nFeed, Comparative Value of.— The compara-\ntive value of horse feed is found by experiment\nto be as follows: 100 lb. of good hay is equal in\nvalue to 591b. of oats, 57 lb. of corn, 2751b. of\ncarrots, 54 lb. of rye or barley and 105 lb. of\nwheat bran.\nFeet, Fetid, Lotion for.— IS Union Medi-\ncate gives this recipe Permanganate of potash,\n15 parts distilled water, 1,000 parts. The feet\nto be washed twice a day with the lotion. They\nare then to be carefully dried, and powdered\neither with potato starch or lycopodium.\nFeet, Offensive. This condition is caused\nby excessive sweating of the feet, and the\nsweat, being confined, does not evaporate, and\nso decomposes.\nTreatment: The feet should be washed daily\nin cold water, and afterward rubbed thoroughly\ndry; the water may contain y z oz. powdered\nalum to the quart. Also at least once daily, es-\npecially after exercise, lave the feet with a\nsolution of chlorinated lime, or—\nPermanganate of potash 80 o-rn\nWater i pt-\nAlso before putting on the socks or stockings,\nthe feet should be thickly powdered, especially\nbetween the toes, with\nChlorinated lime l part\nPrepared chalk .1 par t\nStarch powder i part","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0227.jp2"},"226":{"fulltext":"Felons.\n214\nFiles.\nThe socks or stockings should be of thin flan-\nnel.\nFelons, to Cure.— 1. To cure a felon, says\na correspondent, mix equal parts of strong- am-\nmonia and water, and hold your finger in it\nfor fifteen minutes. After that withdraw it\nand tie apiece of cloth completely saturated\nwith the mixture around the felon, and keep it\nthere till dry.\n2. Stir 1 oz. Venice turpentine in y 2 teaspoon\nof water until the mass resembles candied hon-\ney. Spread on a cloth and wrap around the fin-\nger. It should be used as soon as the felon\nmakes its appearance.\nFenton s Metal. See Alloys White\nMetal.\nFermentation.— Chemists divide fermen-\ntation into five kinds, viz.:\n1. Saccharine fermentation, by which starch\nand gum are converted into sugar.\n2. AlcoTiolic or vinous fermentation by which\nsugar is converted into alcohol.\n3. Viscous or mucilaginous fermentation,\nwhich converts sugar into slime or mucilage\nInstead of alcohol.\n4. Acetous fermentation, by which alcohol is\nconverted into vinegar.\n5. Putrid fermentation, or putrefaction,\nwhich is exhibited in its most marked form in\nthe putrefaction of animal substances.\nFermentation, to Prevent.— 1. According to\nthe Technologiste, common rosin prevents the\nformation of acetic acid in fermented liquids\nwithout having any disturbing effect on the\nprocess of alcoholic fermentation. The pecu-\nliar effect of the hop may be due, it is sug-\ngested, to its resinous matter rather than to its\noils. Resin is added to sweet wines in G reece.\n2. Silicate of soda has been discovered to\nexert a very decided chemical action in check-\ning alcoholic fermentation, in this respect being\nsomewhat similar to borax, although much\nmore energetic. A small quantity of the sili-\ncate will entirely arrest the fermentation of\nwine and also of milk.\nFermentation, to Stop in Wine.— Bottle the\nliquor, and immerse a number of the bottles,\nwith the mouths only projecting, in a large\nvessel of water. Loosen the stoppers and heat\nthe water until of a uniform temperature of\n180° F., then remove the bottles, stopper and\nseal them tightly and place in an inverted\nposition.\nFertilizers.— Hon. Levi Stockbridge, Pro-\nfessor of Agriculture of the Massachusetts\nAgricultural College, Amherst, publishes the\nfollowing formulas, by means of which the\nfarmer may compound his own fertilizers and\nthus save to himself large amounts now paid to\nthose who make a business of preparing these\nphosphates\nTo produce 50 bushels of corn more than the\nnatural product to the acre, use\n1. Nitrogen, 61 lb., in the form of stilphate of\nammonia\n2. Potash, 77 lb., in the form of chloride o£\npotash\n3. Phosphoric acid, 31 lb., in the form of muri-\nate of superphosphates.\nTo grow 1 ton of hay to the acre more than\nthe natural product, use\n4. Nitrogen, 36 lb., in the form of sulphate of\nammonia\n5. Potash, 31 lb., in the form of chloride of\npotash\n6. Phosphoric acid, 12 lb., in the form of\nsuperphosphate.\nTo produce 100 bushels of potatoes per acre\nand their usual proportion of tops more than\nthe natural proportion of the land, and other\nquantities proportionally, use\n7. Nitrogen, 21 lb., in the form of sulphate of\nammonia\n8. Potash, 34 lb., in the form of sulphate of\npotash\n9. Phosphoric acid, 11 lb., in the form of\nsuperphosphate.\nTo produce 25 bushels of oats and the usual\nproportion of straw per acre more than the\nnatural product of the soil, and in proportion\nfor other quantities, use\n10. Nitrogen, 10 lb., in the form of sulphate of\nammonia\n11. Potash, 31 lb., in the form of chloride of\npotash\n12. Phosphoric acid, 8 lb., in the form of\nsuper ph osphate\nTo produce 1,500 lb., of dried leaf tobacco\nwith the usual proportion of stalk more than\nthe natural yield per aci*e of land, use\n13. Nitrogen, 149 lb., in the form of sulphate\nof ammonia\n14. Potash, 172 lb., in the form of sulphate of\npotash\n15. Phosphoric acid, 16 lb., in the form of\nsuperphosphate\n16. Lime, 160 lb., in the form of sulphate of\nlime (lime plaster).\nThese mixtures should be sown over the land\nbroadcast when the ground is well prepared,\nbefore planting, and not put in the hills, so that\nthe roots may seek the food and not concen-\ntrate and thereby cause the plants to burn up.\nCheap Fertilizer from Fish.— Pass fish refuse\nthrough mincing machine and expose in layers\n3 in. deep in a kiln heated to 300° F. until prop-\nerly dried.\nFertilizers, Cotton, Vegetable and Orange.— An\norange fertilizer should have the following\ncomposition: ammonia, 3*25$; available phos-\nphoric acid, 3*50,^ potash, 14 50$. Cotton ferti-\nlizer: ammonia, 2 50#; available phosphoric\nacid, 7 50$; potash, 4%. The formula for the\nvegetable fertilizer varies with the kind of\nvegetable which is cultivated Ammonia, h% to\n1% available phosphoric acid, Q% potash, 8$ to\nl$jf.\nA cheap fertilizer consists of sulphate of\nammonia, 60 lb.; nitrate of soda, 40 lb.; ground\nbone, 250 lb.; plaster, 250 lb.; salt, bushel\nwood ashes, 3 bushels stable manure, 20 bush-\nels. Apply the above amount to six acres.\nLabor in preparing included, it costs about\n$15. It is said to give as good results as most\nof the commercial fertilizers costing $50 per\nton.\nFertilizing Powder.— Bone dust, 9 parts (very\nfine); plaster Paris, y 2 part; sulphate ammonia,\ny 2 part. Steep the seed in the drainings of a\ndunghill; drain, but while still wet, sprinkle\nwith the powder and dry.\nFerro-Manganese. See Alloys.\nFerrotypes, Varnish for. See Var-\nnishes.\nFeuille Mort. See Alloys.\nFig: Paste. Pig paste is thus made: Ten\nlb. figs are cut up finely and boiled to a pulp\nwith a little over 1 gal. of water. This is\nstrained through a sieve, and 30 lb. of sugar\nare added. It is evaporated in a water bath\nuntil stiff. It may be poured into moulds of\nany desired shape. Carefully cooked corn\nstarch may be added to the above before the\nlast evaporation. After removal from the\nmoulds, which must open or come apart, roll\nin sugar.\nFiles, to Sharpen by Chemical\nMeans.— Boil the files in strong soda and\nwater to clean off all grease, oil or gum. Then\ndip for a few minutes in a bath of nitric acid 1\npart, water 4 parts the length of time being\nless on fine files, as your experience may sug-\ngest\nTo Besharpen Old Files.— Wash the files in\nwarm potash water to remove the grease and\ndirt, then wash in warm water and dry by\nheat. Put 1*4 pt. warm water in a wooden\nvessel, put in the files, add 3 oz. blue vitriol\nfinely powdered, 3 oz. borax. Mix well, and\nturn the files so that every one may come in\ncontact with the mixture. Add 10J4 oz. sul-\nphuric acid and y 2 oz. cider vinegar. Remove","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0228.jp2"},"227":{"fulltext":"Fillers.\n2i5\nFilters.\na\nthe flies after a short time, dry, rub witn olive\noil, wrap in porous paper. Coarse files should\nbe kept in the mixture for a longer time than\nfine ones.\nFiles, to Sharpen. The files must be thor-\noughly cleansed in warm water containing\na small quantity of potash, which readily re-\nmoves all the grease and dirt. After they are\nthus cleansed they must be washed with warm\nwater and dried by artificial heat. Next place\n1 pt. of warm water in a wooden vessel and\nput in as many files as the water will cover,\nthen add 2 oz. blue vitriol (sulphate of copper),\nfinely pulverized, and 2 oz. borax, well mixed,\ntaking care to turn the files over so that each\nmay come in contact with the mixture. To the\nabove mixture now add 7 oz. sulphuric acid\nand y± oz. cider vinegar, which will cause the\nfiles to assume a red appearance at first, but\nthey will in a short time resume their natural\ncolor. Then remove them, wash in cold water\nand dry by artificial heat. When dry, sponge\nwith olive oil, wrap in porous paper, and lay\naside for use.\nFillers for Wood.— 1. Take equal parts\njapan boiled linseed oil and turpentine, and\nhalf that quantity starch. Mix thoroughly,\nand apply with a sponge or flannel. When the\npolish is for walnut, a little burnt umber is\nadded to the solution, and a little Venetian red\nwhen for cherry wood.\n2. Hard Wood Filler.— Use boiled oil and\nenough corn starch to make a very thick paste.\nAdd a little japan, and reduce with turpentine.\nAdd no color for white oak for dark ash and\nchestnut use a little raw sienna for walnut,\nburnt umber and a very little Venetian red\nfor bay wood, burnt sienna. Use enough color\nto cover the white of the*starch. Apply with\nbrush and rags. Let it dry forty-eight hours,\nor until it is in condition to rub down with No.\nsandpaper, without much gumming up, and\nif an extra fine finish is desired, fill again with\nthe same materials, using less oil, but more of\njapan and turpentine. The second coat will\nnot shrink, it being supported by the first coat.\nWhen the second coat is hard, the wood is ready\nfor finishing up in any desired style or to any\ndegree of nicety by following up the usual\nmethods. This formula is not intended for\nrosewood, and will not be satisfactory if used\ntherefor.\n3. Boiled linseed oil, I qt.; turpentine, 3 qt.;\neorn starch, 5 lb.; japan, 1 qt.; calcined mag-\nnesia, 2 oz.; mix thoroughly.\n4. Whitening, 6 oz.; japan, H, pt-: boiled lin-\nseed oil, Hj pt.; turpentine, ]4, pt.; corn starch,\n1 oz.; mix well together and apply to the wood.\nAdd coloring if required.\n5. Linseed oil, 1 qt.; spirits of turpentine,\npt.; lime, the size of a baseball, broken fine~\nLet the mixture simmer on a stove, covered\nover, for two or three hours, then strain through\n■a coarse cloth. It is to remain on twenty-four\nhours, then rub off with a woolen cloth and\npolish.\n6. Filling for Cracks.— A very complete filling\nfor open cracks in floors may be made by thor-\noughly soaking newspapers in paste made of 1\nlb. flour, 3 qt. water, and a tablespoonful of\nalum, thoroughly boiled and mixed. Make the\nfinal mixture about as thick as putty, and it\nwill harden like papier mache. This paper may\nbe used for moulds for various purposes.— CaL\nA vcliitfct\n7. German Wood Filling.— Fill the pores of\nthe wood with new tallow and plaster of Paris,\nwell amalgamated before a fire, if the weather\nis cold. Darken, if required, with any coloring\nto suit. When well rubbed in, give a coat of\nshellac, and French polish or varnish.\nAmerican Wood Filler.— Apply to the wood\nwith a brush the following mixture: Pulverized\nstarch bv weight. 3 parts; heavy spar, 3 parts;\ny part by weight of siccative, with enough\nturpentine to make the consistency of ordinary\nvarnish. For dark woods add to the siccative^\number up to y% part. Rub across the grain oi\nthe wood with a piece of felt fastened to a v\npiece of wood. Let the wood dry about eight\nhours, rub with glass paper, then polish and\nvarnish.\nFilters.— Filter, an Inexpensive.— Use two\nstone pots or jars, as shown in the accompany-\ning engraving, the bottom\none being a water jar with\nside hole, if it can be pro-\ncured; otherwise, if no fau-\ncet can be used, the top jar\ncan be removed to enable\nthe water to be dipped out.\nThe top jar must have a hole\ndrilled or broken in the bot-\ntom, and a small flowerpot\nsaucer inverted over the\nhole. Then fill in a layer\nof sharp clean sand, rather\ncoarse. A layer of finer\nsand, a layer of pulverized\ncharcoal with dust blown\nout, then a layer of sand, the whole occupying\none-third of the jar.\nFilters, Carbon for. See Carbon.\nFilter, Home Made.— To make a filter with a\nwine barrel, procure a piece of fine brass wire\ncloth of a size sufficient\nto make a partition\nacross the barrel. Sup-\nport this wire cloth with\na coarser wire cloth un-\nder it and also a light\nframe of oak, to keep\nthe wire cloth from sag-\nging. Fill in upon the\nwire cloth about three\ninches in depth of clear,\nsharp sand, then two\ninches of charcoal bro-\nken finely, but no dust.\nThen on the charcoal\nfour inches of clear, sharp sand. Fill up the\nbarrel with water and draw from the bottom.\nA Quick Filter— Take a clear piece of cha-\nmois skin, free from thin places cut it of the\ndesired size, wash it in a weak solution of\nsoda or any alkali to remove the grease,\nand. rinse thoroughly in cold water before\nusing. Tinctures, elixirs, sirups, and even\nmucilages are filtered rapidly. A pint of the\nthickest sirup will run through in four or five\nminutes. By washing thoroughly after each\ntime of using it will last a long time.\nFiltering Stone— K. Steinman, in Tiefenfurt\nhei Gorlitz, proposes filtering plates from the\nfollowing mixture\nClay 10 parts or 10 or 15\nLevigated chalk 1 1 1\nGlass sand, coarse 55\nGlass sand, fine 25 6o\nGround flint 30 5\nThe ingredients are mixed thoroughly in\nwater, moulded, and hard burnt.— Dingler s\nJournal.\nFiltration is the process of separating insol-\nuble matters, precipitates, etc., by means of\nporous media which allow the passage of the\nliquids only; and is used for rendering liquids,\nas tinctures, etc., clear and transparent, and\nseparating valuable precipitates. Filters are\nmade of various substances, but those of un-\nsized paper are well suited for all liquids that\nare not corrosive or viscid, and ai-e in general\nuse for pharmaceutical purposes. Filtration\naffords the best method of separating and wash-\ning precipitates. When filter papers beeomo\nwet they are very tender and the liquid should\nbe added gradually. To fold filter papers, fold\nfirst on its diameter, then at right anffles, then\nopen out so that three folds are left on one\nside and one on the other.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0229.jp2"},"228":{"fulltext":"Filtration.\n216\nFire.\nFiltration, Fessenden s Rapid.\nFig. i.\nFig.\nt w. 3.\nTtG, 4.\nThe following method enables nitrations to\nbe made very rapidly, and in such a manner\nthat the precipitate can be readily removed.\nUse prepared filter paper only.\nThe filter paper is folded three times; folds\nNos. 1 and 2 are toward the reader, No. 3 from\nFig. 5»\nhim. The filter is then gathered (Fig. 2) and a\npiece of glass rod, bent at a very acute\nangle inserted in the clef t of the filter (Figs. 3\nand 4), thus giving a filtration surf ace of nearly\nfour times the usual one.\nThe filtration being complete, the glass rod\nis grasped by the projecting ends and lifted\nfrom the funnel, bearing the filter upon it.\nOne end of the filter paper is then bent down\nand the precipitate is easily washed oif (Fig. 5).\nFig. 6.\nAn improvement on this is to use instead of\nthe glass rod a plate of glass (Fig. 6) ribbed on\nboth sides. This renders the filtration very\nrapid indeed. Chem. News.\nFinings. —A solution of gelatine, used to\nclarify beer, wine, etc. Isinglass (ordinary), 1\nlb.; stale beer, cider, or vinegar, 3 or 4 pt. Mix\nand macerate until the former becomes gela-\ntinous, then reduce it to a proper consistence\nwith weak, mild beer, cider, or any other\nliquid that the finings are intended for. A pt.\nor more is the usual dose for a barrel of beer or\nporter and a qt. for a hogshead of wine.\nFires, Colored. See Pyrotechny.\nFire Extinguishing Agents.— Vienna\nFire Extinguishing Agent.— A solution of 5\nparts ferrous sulphate (copperas), 20 parts am-\nmonium sulphate, 125 parts water.\nOther Mixtures. 1. Alum, 24$; ammonium\nsulphate, 52%; ferrous sulphate, 1%.\n2. Boric acid, 16 parts, by weight; alum, 24\nparts; ferrous sulphate, 20 parts; dissolve in 160\nparts of water. The solution is slowly poured\ninto a cold solution of sodium hyposulphite 24\nparts by weight; water glass, 40 parts; water,\n640 parts.\n3. Johnstone s.— Make a mixture of equal\nparts of pyrolusite (manganese dioxide), potas-\nsium chlorate, potassium nitrate. Moisten with\nwater glass and press into a block. Place the\nblock in a pasteboard box. Several boxes, con-\nnected by fuses, are suspended from the ceiling\nof a room.\n4. Bucher s fire extinguishing powder con-\ntains 59 parts saltpeter, 36 parts of sulphur, 4\nparts of charcoal, 1 part of oxide of iron. We\nfail to see the advantage of this peculiar sort of\nimpure gunpowder as a fire extinguisher.\n5. One of the best solutions for the extinction\nof incipient fires consists of crude calcium\nchloride 20 parts, salt 5 parts, dissolved in\nwater 75 parts. Keep at hand and apply with a\nhand pump.\n6. Hand Grenades for Extinguishing Fires.\nFill thin, spherical bottles of blue glass with a\nsolution of calcium chloride, salammoniac or\nborax.\n7. Fire Extinguishing Powder.— Eight parts\ncommon salt, 6 parts sodium bicarbonate, 2","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0230.jp2"},"229":{"fulltext":"Fire.\n217\nFireproonng.\nparts Glauber s salt, 2 parts calcium chloride,\n2 parts sodium silicate.\n8. Common salt, 60$; salammoniac, 60$; sodium\nbicarbonate, 80$.\n9. Salammoniac, 100$; sodium sulphate, 60$;\nsodium bicarbonate, 40$.\n10. How to Treat a Burning- Chimney.— Shut\nall the doors of the room so as to prevent any-\ncurrent of air up the chimney, then throw a\nfew handf uls of common fine salt upon the fire\nin the grate or stove. This will immediately\nextinguish the fire in the chimney. In the\nprocess of burning the salt, muriatic acid gas\nis evolved, which is a good extinguisher of fire.\n11. Fire Extinguishers, To Charge.— The Bab-\ncock fire extinguisher is charged with a solu-\ntion of bicarbonate of soda in water and sul-\nphuric acid in a lead bottle, which, when\nrequired, is turned over by a crank, spilling\nthe acid into the charge of soda water. Car-\nbonic acid gas is instantly generated, by which\na pressure is obtained sufficient for throwing\nthe whole contents of the apparatus with\nmuch force through a nozzle for fire purposes.\nUse of sulphuric acid 5 parts, bicarbonate of\nsoda 6 parts, by weight. Other combinations\nare used, such as carbonate of ammonia, pot-\nash, etc. Iron can be used for the alkaline\nreservoirs.\n12. Eight lb. carbonate of soda, 4 lb. alum, 3\nlb. borax, 1 lb. carbonate of potash and 24 lb.\nsilicate of soda solution are mixed together; Vy\nlb. of this mixture is added to each gal. of water\nwhen required for use. The object is to cover\neverything with a fireproof film or deposit.\n13. A committee of the Polytechnic Society\nof Munich have lately issued a report on the\nmeans to be adopted for extinguishing burning\npetroleum. This states that since concentrated\nwater of ammonia evolves a great amount of\ngas when heated, and this gas is unable to sus-\ntain the combustion of any substance, it may\nbe asserted that petroleum will not continue to\nburn even in a room filled with atmospheric\nair wherein a considerable proportion of am-\nmonia gas is present. The place where the\npetroleum is stored must be broken up in com-\npartments, so as to limit the bulk. The am-\nmonia water must contain at least 10$ of the\ngas. The proposed method of employing the\nagent is to keep a bottle full of it on each cask;\nthe bottle and its contents would remain in-\ntact till fire caused the destruction of the one\nand the liberation of the other, so that there\nwould be no loss except when needed.\n14. The now well known extincteur intro-\nduced by Sinclair is a vessel filled with water\ncharged with carbonic acid gas under great\npressure.\n15. Foster, of Bolton, has introduced an ex-\ntincteur in the form of a portable pump, which\ncan draw a continuous water supply from any\nsource, and saturate it with carbonic acid under\npressure before emitting it in a jet.\n16. To Extinguish the Flame of Petroleum or\nBenzine.— Smother with a woolen cloth or car-\npet, or a wet muslin or linen cloth. Or the\nflames may be extinguished by throwing on\nearth or sand.\nFire Klndlers.— 1. Dip the wood in melted\nresin. The following composition is sometimes\nused 60 parts melted resin and 40 parts tar, in\nwhich the wood is dipped for a moment. Or,\ntake a qt. of tar and 3 lb. of resin, melt them,\nthen cool, mix as much sawdust with a little\ncharcoal added as can be worked in. Spread\nout on a board, and when cold break up into\nlumps the size of a hickory nut, and you will\nhave enough kindling to last a good while.\n2. Use the cheapest rosin and add about 2 oz.\nof tallow to each lb. of the rosin. Melt the rosin\nfirst and add the tallow. Either smear over\nsmall blocks of wood or mix with sawdust and\npour into moulds made of boards which can be\nknocked apart and the mass broken up.\nFireproof Glue. See Glues.\nFireprooflnk. See Inks.\nFireproof Paint. See Paints, also.\nFireproofing.— Cloth. See Textile Fabrics\nbelow.\nPaints. 1. Various substances have been\nproposed as fireproof coatings for the protec-\ntion of woods employed for building purposes,\nbut most of them have been abandoned as\nbeing either too costly or not sufficiently dur-\nable. The following, invented by Vilde and\nSchambeck, seems to succeed. The paint con-\nsists of 20 lb. finely pulverized glass, 20 lb.\nfinely pulverized porcelain, 20 lb. any sort of\nstone in powder, 10 lb. calcined lime and 30 lb.\nwater glass (silicate of soda), such as usually\nfound in commerce. The solid elements hav-\ning been powdered as finely as possible and\nsifted, are moistened and then intimately\nmixed with the water glass. This yields a mass\nof sirupy consistence that may be employed\nfor painting either alone or mixed with color.\nThe addition of the lime gives a certain unctu-\nosity to the mass for whitewashing, and its\ncombination with the silicic acid of the soluble\nglass serves to bind the other materials to-\ngether. The proportions of the different ele-\nments above mentioned may be changed, save\nthat of the water glass, which must remain\nconstant. These elements may even be re-\nplaced one by another; but it is always well to\npreserve the lime. Instead of the silicate of\nsoda (soluble glass of soda) soluble glass of pot-\nash might be used, but the former is less ex-\npensive. The coating is applied with a brush,\nas other paints are, as uniformly as possible\nover the surface to be protected. The first\ncoat hardens immediately, and a second one\nmay be applied six hours or more afterward;\ntwo are sufficient.— La Papeterie.\n2. Take of common lime, freshly slaked, of\nhydraulic lime, and of silicious or argillaceous\nmatter (sand or pulverized slate), equal parts;\nto which add cows 1 milk in sufficient quantity\nto give the whole, when thoroughly mixed, the\nproper consistency for laying and spreading-\nwith the ordinary brush. Any desired color-\ning matter may be added, The addition of glue\nor rosin may in some cases be of value. The\nproportions may vary considerably, but those\nabove given are considered to produce the\nbest result.\n3. Dissolve crushed rosin in turps sufficient\nto make it as thick as cream. Then mix to-\ngether in a paste oxide of zinc and boiled lin-\nseed oil, and add it to the other; it will become\nwhite. Thin it out for use with boiled oil and\nturps. The above paint will take most pig-\nments, and should be put on flowing.\n4. Two substances are in general use for the\npurpose of protecting wood against combus-\ntion, viz., zinc chloride and soda silicate. Both\nof these have certain drawbacks. A paint con-\nsisting of zinc chloride volatilizes when the\nmaterial on which it is spread is heated or ex-\nposed to flame, and its vapors are insupport-\nable by human beings. It would therefore be\ndifficult, if not altogether impossible, to enter\nwooden dwellings painted with the zinc salt\nwhen on fire, and thus the salvage of furniture,\netc., would be obstructed. The water glass\npaint, on the other hand, is liable to be washed\naway when exposed to rain or other watery\ninfluences. Sieburger therefore recalls to mind\ntwo fireproof compositions which were for-\nmerly in much use. The one is a saturated\naqueous solution of 3 lb. alum and 1 lb. cop-\nperas, with which the wood is twice painted;\nafter drying, a solution of copperas in which\npowdered clay is suspended is brushed over the\nalum layer. The other protective paint is a\nmixture of 1 lb. sulphur, 1 lb. clay and 6 lb,\ncopperas, spread as powder over wood previ-\nously washed with a solution of glue. Ding.\nPolytech. Jl.\nPaper that Resists the Action of Fire and\nWater.— 1. Mix from 5 to 75 parts of aluminum","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0231.jp2"},"230":{"fulltext":"Fireprooflng.\n218\nFireprooflng.\nsulphate with 62^ parts of asbestos fiber.\nMoisten this mixture with chloride of zinc and\nwash thoroughly with water. Treat with a so-\nlution composed of 20 to 25 parts of pure alumi-\nnum sulphate and 2^£ parts of resin soap.\nAfterward manufacture into paper in the same\nway as with ordinary pulp. See also Writing\nMaterials below.\n2. The Chemiker Zeitung gives the following\nmodes of preparing incombustible writing and\nprinting paper, which appear worth attention.\nThe best asbestos is treated with a preparation\nof permanganate of potash and then with sul-\nphuric acid. Ninety-five per cent, of this as-\nbestos- is mixed with five per cent, of wood\npulp in water containing borax and glue. A\nfireproof writing ink is made by mixing Indian\nink and gum with chloride of platinum and oil\nof lavender; for printing ink lampblack and\nvarnish are to be substituted.\n3. Pass the paper through strong solution of\nalum and dry.\nTextile Fabrics.— Several preparations for ren-\ndering textile and other inflammable fabrics\nincombustible and practically fireproof have\nbeen recently introduced by Martin and Tes-\nsier, of Paris. The compositions are said to be\nof an inexpensive nature and capable of render-\ning incombustible all kinds of readily inflam-\nmable substances, such as woven and other\nfabrics of cotton and other fibrous materials,\npaper, printed or otherwise, including bills of\nexchange and other securities, woodwork, the-\natrical scenery, straw, etc.\n1. The first composition, which may be ap-\nplied to all kinds of fabrics, without deterior-\nating them in any way, consists of sulphate of\nammonia (pure), 8 lb.; carbonate of ammonia,\n2*5 lb.; boracic acid, 31b.; borax (pure), 1*7 lb.;\nstarch, 21b.; water, 100 lb. It is simply neces-\nsary to steep the fabrics in a hot solution com-\nposed as above until they have become thor-\noughly impregnated, after which they are\ndrained and dried sufficiently to enable them to\nbe ironed or pressed like ordinary starched\ngoods.\n2. A second composition, to be used for the-\natrical scenery (or the mounted but unpainted\ncanvas to be used for this purpose) and also for\nwoodwork, furniture, door and. window frames,\netc., is to be applied hot with a brush like ordi-\nnary paint. It is composed of boracic acid, 5\nlb.; hydrochlorate of ammonia or sal am-\nmoniac, 15 lb.; pota°,h feldspar, 5 lb.; gelatine,\n1*5 lb.; size, 50 lb.; ar, 100 lb.; to which is\nadded a sufficient quantity of a suitable cal-\ncareous substance to give the composition suf-\nficient body or consistency.\n3. A third composition to be u-^d for coarse\ncanvas or sailcloth, cordage, straw and wood,\nis applied by immersing the articles therein or\nby imbibition, and consists of boracic acid, 6\nlb.; hydrochlorate of ammonia or sal ammo-\nniac, 15 lb.; borax (pure), 3 lb.; water, 100 lb.\n4. A fourth composition, applicable to all\nkinds of paper, whether printed or not, includ-\ning securities, books, etc., is formed of sulphate\nof ammonia (pure), 8 lb.; boracic acid, 3 lb.;\nborax, 1*7 lb.; water, 100 lb.\nThe solution is to be placed in a vat heated to\n122° F. (50° C.) at the end of the paper making\nmachine, and the paper as it leaves the ma-\nchine is passed through the solution in this vat,\nso as to be completely impregnated therewith,\nafter which it is dried upon a warm cylinder\nand then wound on a reel. If the paper be in\nsheets or printed, it is simply immersed in the\nabove heated solution, spread out to dry, and\nafterward pressed to restore the glaze de-\nstroyed by the moisture. The above composi-\ntions insure a degree of incombustibility with-\nout precedent as regards the preservation of\nthe materials to which they are applied. The\nproportions Of the several ingredients are\ngiven as examples only, and may be varied as\nfound necessary in practice.— Sci. Am.\n5. Among the means recommended for this\npurpose we may, in the first place, mention\none of exceeding simplicity, applicable to mus-\nlins and all dresses which are starched after\nwashing. It is merely necessary to mix the\nstarch with sal ammoniac and plaster of Paris.\nThe goods thus dressed may certainly be set on\nfire by the flame of a match, but the flame does\nnot extend. The inventor of this first process\nafterward recommended\nBorax. 12 parts.\nEpsom salts 9 parts.\ndissolved in 80 parts of warm water. The tis-\nsues to be prepared are dipped in the solution\ntill thoroughly saturated. They are then\npressed, wrapped in a cloth, wrung- again, laid\nbetween cloths, and passed through a mangle,\nafter which the articles are ironed while still\ndamp. The necessary quantity of starch can\nbe stirred in the saline solution.\n6. Vog-t dissolves-\nSublimed sal ammoniac 2 parts.\nSulphate of zinc 1 part.\nin 15 to 20 parts of water. The starch or other\ningredients required for stiffening or finishing\nare added to the solution. The dresses, etc.,\nare steeped in the mixture till thoroughly sat-\nurated, pressed well out and dried. According\nto Siebrath a good result may be got by steep-\ning the dresses in a solution containing 5$ alum\nand 5$ phosphate of ammonia. Tissues so\ntreated are said not to burn, even if previously\nrubbed with gunpowder. The powder deflag-\nrated, but left the tissue unburnt.\n7. Hottin proceeds in a very similar manner.\nHe takes a solution of acid phosphate of lime,\nmixed, with ammonia in excess. After decolor-\nizing it with animal charcoal he adds 5$ gelatin-\nous silica, and evaporates to dryness. The dress-\nes to be made fireproof are laid in a 30$ solution\nof this mixture, which he calls •Hottine. 1\nI If this mixture has once been evaporated to\ndryness, we do not see how it can be all brought\ninto solution again without the aid of an acid.\nAcid phosphate of lime, if mixed with am-\nmonia, will be precipitated as insoluble tri-\nbasic phosphate of lime, while the excess of the\nphosphoric acid will combine with the am-\nmonia. So that the process is, in reality,\nmerely a method of making phosphate of am-\nmonia.]\n8. Among other agents proposed for the.\nsame purpose are soluble glass, tungstate of\nsoda, ammonia, alum and hyposulphite of\nsoda.\n9. According to Versman and Oppenheim,\nphosphate of ammonia is mixed with half its\nweight sal ammoniac, and a 20$ solution of the\nmixture is used. Tissues which are to be after-\nward ironed are afterward treated with a 20$\nsolution of the tungstate of soda.\n10. The phoenix essence of M. Pereles con-\nsists of a mixed solution of tungstate, silicate\nand phosphate of soda.\n11. Nicoll proposed a bath of\nAlum 6 parts.\nBorax 2 parts.\nTungstate of soda 1 part.\nDextrine dissolved in soap lye. 1 part.\nThe dextrine is said to cause the sa.ts to ad-\nhere better to the fiber.\n12. More recently two receipts have been\ngiven in the Berichte der Deutsch Chem. Gessel-\nschaft (XII., p. 2391).\nThe first is\nSulphate of ammonia 8 parts.\nCarbonate of ammonia 2^j parts.\nBoracic acid 2 parts.\nBorax Imparts.\nStarch 2 parts.\nWater 100 parts.\nThe dresses or other tissues are taken\nthrough this mixture boiling.\n13. The second receipt","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0234.jp2"},"231":{"fulltext":"Fireproofing.\n219\nFirep rooting.\nBoraeic acid 5 parts.\nSal ammoniac 15 parts.\nPotash feldspar 5 parts,\nGelatine 1}4 parts.\nStarch paste 50 parts.\nWater 100 parts.\nThis mixture is applied with a brush.— Indus-\ntrie-blaetter.— Chemical Review,\n14. Steep the fabric in almost any saline solu-\ntion, such as borax, alum, sal ammoniac, etc.\nThe addition of about 1 oz. alum or sal ammo-\nniac to the last water used to rinse a lady s\ndress, or set of bed furniture, or the addition\nof a less quantity to the starch used to stiffen\nthem, renders them uninflammable,or at least so\nlittle combustible that they will not readily take\nlire, and if kindled, will not burst into flame.\n15. Make a solution of sodium tungstate 28°\nTw., mix with 3% of sodium phosphate.\n16. Equal weights of acetate of lime and chlo-\nride of calcium, dissolved in twice their weight\nof hot water, is a fireproofing mixture for\nfabrics.\n17. Fireproof Wash for Clothes.— Tungstate\nof soda is excellent, but rather too expensive\nsatisfactory results are obtained by the simple\nsolution of 4 parts borax and 3 parts Epsom\nsalts. The only precaution necessary is that\nthe solution (which is easily made by adding 3\nor 4 parts warm water to 1 part of the mixture)\nbe used immediately, since the active principle,\nthe insoluble borate of magnesia, soon precipi-\ntates.\n18. The Manufacturers Review tt^slates\nfrom Hager the lowing directions for pre-\nparing a stare! j .^i impregnation with which\nrenders a fabric m r mbustible: 10 parts cal-\n.cined and pulverized bones are treated with b0\nparts j r, a) which 6 parts concentrated\nsulphuj^. ;.v_d are gradually added. The mix-\nture is well stirred, and left to stand two days\nin a warm spot, being stirred from time to\ntime 100 parts distilled water are then added,\nand the liquid filtered. 5 parts sulphate of\nmagnesia (Epsom salts) are dissolved in 15 parts\ndistilled water, the solution added to the first,\nand caustic ammonia added till the liqvrid smells\nof it. The precipitate is thrown on a linen fil-\nter, pressed, dried in a moderately warm place,\nand rubbed to a very fine powder. Of this\npowder, 2 parts are mixed with exactly 1 part\ntungstate of soda and 6 parts wheat starch, and\na little indigo blue added to impart a bluish\ntint to the powder. In order to use this pow-\nder, it is stirred up with about twice its weight\nof cold water, and enough hot water is then\nadded to produce a gelatinous liquid, in which\nthe fabrics that are to be rendered incombusti-\nble are steeped.\n1. Deal boards become almost incombustible\nwhen painted over with a diluted solution of\nwater glass or silicate of soda. The water glass\nis usually sold as a thick fluid, like honey. This\nmay be thinned out with water, about six or\nseven times its own bulk. The water must be\nsoft— boiled water will do— and apply the solu-\ntion warm. In about twenty-four hours apply\na second coat, and perhaps a third. Use a new\nbrush, and wash in clean water after using, or\nit will get too soft. Avoid grease or fat on the\nboards before painting them.\n2. Soak the wood in a strong solution of\nalum and sulphate of copper. About 1 lb. of\nalum and 1 lb. of sulphate of copper should be\nsufficient for 100 gal. of water. These sub-\nstances are dissolved in a small quantity of hot\nwater, then mixed with the water in the vessel\nin which the wood is to be steeped. The timber\nto be rendered fireproof can be kept under the\nliquor by stones or any other mode of sinking-\nit. All that is required is a water-tight vessel\nof sufficient dimensions to hold enough of the\nliquor to cover the timber, which should be al-\nlowed to steep for about four or five days.\nAfter this it is taken out and allowed to dry\nthoroughly bef ore being used.\n3. A plan of rendering the wood partially\nfireproof is to whitewash it two or three times.\n4. The wood is twice painted over with a hot\nsaturated solution of 1 part green vitriol and 3\nparts alum. The wood after drying is again\npainted with a weak solution of green vitriol,\nin which pipe clay has been mixed to the con-\nsistency of ordinary paint. This coat is re-\nnewed from time to time.\n5. Shingle roofs, and indeed all woodwork,\nmay be rendered less liable to take fire from\nfalling- cinders, etc., by coating it with a wash\ncomposed of lime, salt, and fine sand or wood\nashes. This compound also preserves the wood,\nand should be applied in the same manner as\nordinary whitewash.\n6. Fireproof wash for shingles, etc. Dissolve\nin a barrel of hot water\nSulphate of zinc 20 lb.\nAlum 20 lb.\nCaustic potash 81b.\nManganic oxide 8 1b\nand add\nSulphuric acid 81b.\nPack the shingles loosely in another barrel\nand fill with the liquid, holding the shingles\nunder the mixture. Fdl up the first barrel also\nwith shingles, soak for 3 hours and pile to dry,\nand repeat until all the shingles are fireproof ed.\nAfter the house is shingled paint with oxide of\niron paint, tempered with other mineral color\nin boiled linseed oil, and mixed to suit your\ntaste as to shade of color.\nTimber.— 1. By Payne s process, patented in\n1841, the timber is inclosed in a close iron ves-\nsel in which a vacuum is formed. A solution\nof sulphate of iron is then admitted into the\nvessel, which instantly insinuates itself into all\nthe pores of the wood, previously freed from\nair by the vacuum, and after about a minute s\nexposure, impregnates its entire substance.\nThe sulphate of iron is then withdrawn, and\nanother solution, of muriate of lime, thrown\nin. The two salts then react upon each other\nand form two new combinations within the\nsubstance of the wood— muriate of iron and\nsulphate of lime. Timber thus treated is pre-\nserved both from rot and from the attack of\nworms, and is perfectly incombustible.\n2. Dr. Burnett s process consists in treating\nthe timber to a solution of chloride of zinc, 1\nlb. chloride of zinc to 4 gal. water. It inquires\nto be immersed for about two days for each\ninch in thickness, and afterward left to dry for\na period of fourteen to ninety days. This ren-\nders the wood incombustible, but not so tho-\nroughly as the former process. It is like-\nwise a preservative.\n3. There are many chemicals employed to\nrender articles uninflammable, such as com-\nmon salt, sulphate of ammonia, tungstate of\nsoda, etc. The wood would require to be thor-\noughly dried, and then saturated with one of\nthe above salts dissolved in water. The woods\nleast inflammable are beech, oak, American\nelm, plane tree, and other non-resinous woods.\n4. A trial at Devonport Dockyard, ordered\nby the Admiralty, of the method of rendering\nwood uninflammable by saturating it with\ntungstate of soda, showed that the prepared\nwood is under all circumstances much less rea-\ndily inflammable than ordinary wood; that\nshavings and chips of the preparad wood, al-\nthough they may be made to burn, cannot be\nmade by themselves to set fire to substantial\ntimbers of the prepared wood; that prepared\ntimber steadfastly resists mere flame, although\nit may be made to burn when acted upon con-\ntinuously by great heat. The cost of prepara-\ntion and the largely increased weight of the\nprepared wood are disadvantages to be set\nagainst these advantages.\n5. Some years since, experiments were made\nby Prof. Pepper, with a view of rendering arti-\ncles fireproof by the use of chemical solutions.\nThe following were the results: Treated with","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0235.jp2"},"232":{"fulltext":"Fireproof! ng.\n220\nFireproofing.\nalum, the article soon yielded, and burst into\nflames; with borax, it lasted longer; with\ntungstate of soda, longer still; with phosphate\nof ammonium, it resisted best of all.\n6. Wood can be rendered practically fire-\nproof by first drying it thoroughly and then\ncoating it with common whitewash. If the\nwood is not thoroughly dry, the coat of white-\nwash shells off, but it is a very difficult matter\nto burn wood which has been plastered over\nwith whiting or even limewash.\nPaterno reviews several substances which\nare used some of them, as sodium tungstate,\nanswer very well, but are objectionable on ac-\ncount of cost. The author has made numer-\nous experiments with various substances in\ntheir power of rendering fabrics non-inflam-\nmable. He recommends the following as being\nquite equal to sodium tungstate.\n7. A mixture of borax and sulphate of mag-\nnesia. To prepare this, for 20 lb. water take 3\nlb. borax and 234 lb. sulphate of magnesia. The\naction of this mixture depends on the forma-\ntion of a borate of magnesia, insoluble in water,\nhot or cold, which surrounds and impregnates\nthe threads of the texture or the fibers of the\nwood, and thus renders the development of\ncombustible gases and the spread of flame very\ndifficult.\n8. A mixture of sulphate of ammonium and\nsulphate of lime, or gypsum, in various propor-\ntions, according as it is to be applied to ma-\nterials of greater or less fineness. The sulphate\nof lime is transformed, with the salt of ammo-\nnium, into a double compound, which produces\nnone of the disagreeable effects of the latter,\nor at least in a very slight degree. The action\nof this mixture of salts— which, on account of\nits cheapness, may be extensively employed\ndepends on an incrustation of the idbers, which\nErevents the spread of fire, and, on the other\nand, extinguishes flame in consequence of\nthe volatilization of the salt of ammonium at a\nhigh temperature. Take 1 lb. liquid ammonia\nand 2 lb. sulphate of lime, and a single coating\nwith a concentrated solution of this compound,\nwhich costs little, suffices to preserve wooden\nstructures from burning. The wood is not\nrendered absolutely incombustible, but it is not\neasy to light, and ceases to burn when the\naction of foreign inflammable substances comes\nto an end. Hoofing often washed with rain\nwater, and presenting every condition favor-\nable for easily taking fire, was impregnated\nwith this mixture. It had been covered with a\nlayer of tar and drying oil, and thus rendered\nmore liable to burn. Nevertheless, all attempts\nto set it on fire failed. The experiments have\nbeen so satisfactory that the Austrian Minister\nof Finance has recommended this method to\nbe used in all the establishments of the empire.\n—OesU Zeit.fur Berg-u.-Hut.-W.\nWicks, to Fireproof. —To prepare lamp wicks\nso that they will not burn out, steep them in a\nconcentrated aqueous solution of tungstate of\nsoda and then dry thoroughly in an oven.\nIncombustible Wick.— Sea sand, 15 parts pow-\ndered fireclay, 5 parts fine wood sawdust, 10\nparts; powdered glass. 2% parts; cotton or\ncotton dust, 2% parts. Moisten this mixture,\ndry, and fire at a full red heat for half an hour.\nThis is said to yield a permanent and porous\nmaterial for lamp wicks.\nWriting Materials.— -1. A really incombustible\npaper, without a fireproof ink, would be a very\nvaluable article in many businesses, and for\nmany purposes of everyday life, but if it can\nbe supplemented by a fire proof ink, its value\nwill be enchanced tenfold. Such a discovery\nG. W, Halfpenny believes he has made, and\nthat paper prepared by his process under such\ncircumstances as fires in houses, factories or\nother buildings is ordinarily incombustible.\nThe inventor prepares his paper in the usual\nmanner from a pulp consisting of vegetable\nfiber, asbestos^lum and borax, in or about the\nfollowing pBg^p-tions: Vegetable fiber, 1 lb.;\nasbestos, 2 lb.; borax, lb., and alum, lb.\nThe vegetable fibers are minutely divided and\ntreated in the manner usual in the production\nof ordinary paper; the asbestos is also divided\nas much as possible and the two are then in-\ntimately mixed with the alum and borax in a\nsufficient quantity of water to make a pulp of\nthe requisite consistency, which is then made\ninto paper by any of the well known processes.\nThe proportions given may be varied to suit\nthe quality and nature of the desired product,\nand also to suit the different qualities of the\nraw materials. Thus the inventor says he has\nmade incombustible paper in which the pro-\nportions of the ingredients varied from 50 to\n70 parts of asbestos, and from 30 to 50 parts of\nflax or other vegetable fiber, with only 2)4, per\ncent, each of alum and borax. He proposes to\nuse in some cases silicate of soda, in order to\ninsure hardness and coherence in the substance\nof the paper after it has been acted upon by\nfire. In order to obtain a paper of great\nstrength and flexibility the sheets may be made\nof linen or other woven fabric, and coated on\nboth sides with the incombustible paper. The\nfireproof ink for use in writing or printing on\nthe incombustible paper is made of the follow-\ning substances: Graphite, 22drm.; copal or other\nresinous gum, 12 grn.; iron sulphate, 2drm.;\ntincture of nutgalls, 2 drm.; and sulphate of\nindigo, 8 drm. These materials are mixed to-\ngether and boiled in water, the graphite of\ncourse having- been reduced to an impalpable\npowder. This ink, besides being fireproof, is\nsaid to be insoluble in water under ordinary\ncircumstances, and is black; but when colored\ninks are desired the graphite is replaced by an\nearthy or mineral pigment of the desired color.\n2. Fireproof paper was prepared by L. Fro-\nbeen by bleaching choice asbestos fibers with\nsulphurous acid, and adding h% of ground wood\nfiber with borax or glue water, and worked\ninto paper; it can be nicely smoothed, and is\nsaid to resist a white glow heat.\n3. The Chemiker Zeitung gives the following\nmodes of preparing incombustible writing and\nprinting paper, which appear worth attention;\nAsbestos is treated with a preparation of\npermanganate of potash and then with sul-\nphuric acid; 95$ of this asbestos is mixed with\n5% of wood pulp in water containing borax and\nglue. A fireproof writing ink is made by mix-\ning Indian ink and gum with chloride of pla-\ntinum and oil of lavender; for printing ink,\nlampblack and varnish are to be substituted.\n4. Paper made of pure asbestos resists a high\ntemperature without material alteration. An\nammoniacal solution of nitrate of silver, col-\nored with a little Indian ink, will perserve a\nlegible copy when written with on the asbestos\npaper mentioned above, and subjected to\nstrong heat.\n5. A free flowing ink for writing on fireprool\npaper with an ordinary metallic pen may be\nobtained by using 5 parts dry platinum chloride\nwith 15 parts of oil of lavender, 15 parts of\nChinese ink, and 1 part of gum arabic, adding\nthereto 64 parts of water. When the paper is\nignited after being written upon with this ink,\nthe platinum ingedient causes the writing to\nappear transparent, and, as a consequence, it\nis claimed that such writing as has become\nblack or illegible will become readily legible\nagain during the process of heating the paper.\nColors for painting may also be make fireproof\nby mixing commercial metallic colors with\nthe chloride of platinum and painters varnish\nadding an ordinary aquarelle pigment- to\nstrengthen the covering power of the color\nThese fireproof paints or colors can be easilj\nused in the same manner as the common water\ncolors, and it is claimed they will resist the\ndestructive influence of great heat quite as\nsuccessfully as the fireproof printing and writ-\ning inks just referred to.\nMuch useful information will be found in W.\nG. McMillan s paper on Some Causes of Fi/re","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0236.jp2"},"233":{"fulltext":"Fireworks.\n221\nFlowers,\nind Methods for tlieir Prevention (J~l. Soc. Arts,\nml. xxxii.)\nFireworks, Colored. See Pyrotechny.\nFish Lines, to Protect. See Cleans-\nI ins:, Mildew.\nFishing Line, to Waterproof. See\ni Waterproofing.\nFish Lines, to Wax. See Waxes.\nFixing Agents. See Microscopy.\nFixing Baths. See Photography.\nFixing, Sensitizing and Toning. See\nPhotography.\nFlannel, to Bleach. See Bleaching.\nFlannels, to Wash. See Cleansing.\nFlash.— Burnt sugar coloring 1 1 gal. fluid ex-\ntract of capsicum or essence of Cayenne, pt.,\nor enough to give a strong fiery taste. Used to\ncolor spirits and to give them a false strength.\nFlash Light. See Photography.\nFlea*, on Dogs and Other Animals.—\nSoap water, carbolic acid in dilute alcoholic\nsolution, flowers of sulphur either used as a\npowder or mixed by agitation with water con-\ntaining a little glycerine; dilute solutions of\nsulphate of magnesia— any powder or solution\ncontaining tannin, as dried sumac, tea and Per-\nsian insect powder. These are the least objec-\ni tionable exterminators. A little of the carbolic\nsolution may be mixed in with the soap water,\nand this used as a wash or sprinkled in infected\nlocalities. Flowers of sulphur contain sulphur-\nous acid, which is fatal to the insect, but it\nmust not be used on or near colored woolen\nfabrics, as it is liable to injure the colors. Sul-\nphate of magnesia solution (in water) may be\nused as a wash. Sumac powder, etc., give ex-\ncellent results. The sulphur mixture men-\nI tioned, or carbolic acid shaken up with about\n30 parts of water, and sprinkled in the cellar,\nwill soon depopulate the coal heap.\nFleas, to Bid Cellars of.—L. O. Howard recom-\nmends benzine. A safer method is to sprinkle\nthe floor thickly w^th quicklime, or a good size\nbundle of fresh pennyroyal scattered over the\nfloor will drive them out. If fresh pennyroyal\nis not obtainable get 2 oz. oil of pennyroyal, 2\noz. oil of sassafras, 4 oz. alcohol; shake together\nwell in a bottle and spray around with an atom-\nizer. Substitute sweet oil for alcohol, and the\nmixture rubbed on the hands and face will\nkeep off mosquitoes.— P. H. L.\nFleckenwasser. See Cleansing.\nFlies, to Destroy.— 1. Take an infusion of\nquassia, 1 pt.; brown sugar, 4 oz,; ground pep-\nper, i oz. To be well mixed together, and put\nin small shallow dishes where required.\n3. Black pepper (powdered), 1 drm.; brown\nsugar, 1 drm.; milk or cream, 3 drm. Mix, and\nplace it on a plate or saucer where the flies are\nmost troublesome.\n3 Pour a little simple oxymel (an article to be\nobtained at the druggists) into a common tum-\nbler glass, and place in the glass a piece of cap\npaper, made into the shape of the upper part of\na funnel, with a hole at the bottom to admit the\nflies. Attracted by the smell, they readily enter\nthe trap in swarms, and by the thousands soon\ncollected prove that they have not the wit or\nthe disposition to return.\n4. Take some jars, mugs, or tumblers, fill\nthem half full with soapj r water cover them\nas jam ppts are covered with a piece of paper,\neither tied down or tucked under the rim. Let\nthis paper be rubbed inside with wet sugar,\nmolasses, honey, or jam, or anything sweet;\ncut a small hole in the center, large enough for\na fly to enter. The flies settle on the top, at-\ntracted by the smell of the bait; they then\ncrawl through the hole, to feed upon the sweet\nbeneath. Meanwhile the warmth of the weather\ncauses the soapy water to ferment, and pro-\nduces a gas which overpowers the flies, and they\ndrop down into the vessel. Thousands may be\ndestroyed this way, and the traps last a long\ntime. See also Paper, Fly.\nFloors, Cement for. See Cements.\nFloors, Lacquer for. See Lacquers.\nFloors, to Scour. See Cleansing.\nFloors, to Wax. See Waxes.\nFlorida Water. See Waters.\nFlour Paste. See Pastes.\nFlour.— How to Select.— 1. Look at its color.\nIf it is white, with a slightly yellowish or straw\ncolored tint, it is a good sign. If it is very\nwhite with a bluish cast, or with black specks\nin it, the flour is not good. 3. Examine its ad-\nhesiveness—wet and knead a little of it between\nthe fingers; if it works dry and elastic, it is\ngood; if it works soft and sticky, it is poor.\nFlour made from spring wheat, is likely to be\nsticky. 3. Throw a little lump of dry flour\nagainst a dry, smooth, perpendicular surface;\nif it adheres in a lump, the flour has life in it;\nif it falls like powder, it is bad. 4. Squeeze\nsome of the flour in your hand if it retains\nthe shape given by the pressure that, too, is a\ngood sign. Flour that will stand all these tests\nis safe to buy. These modes were given by\nold flour dealers, and we make no apology for\nprinting them, as they pertain to a matter that\nconcerns everybody, namely, the quality of\nthat which is the staff of life.\nFlour, Self -Raising. —The following are the\ncompositions of several of these powders in ex-\ntensive use 1. Bicarbonate soda, 33 oz. burnt\nalum, 19 oz. starch, 57 oz. 3. Bicarbonate\nsoda, 2434 oz. sesquicarbonate soda, 3J4 oz.\nstarch, 4T oz. burnt alum, 36^ oz. 3. Bicarbo-\nnate soda, 31 oz. burnt alum, 39^ oz. starch,\n39 oz.\nFlowers, Mass for. See Compositions.\nFlowers, Preservation of.— 1. A method\nof preserving the natural colors of flowers, re-\ncommended by R. Hegler in the Deutsche Bota-\nnische Monatsnefte, consists in dusting salicylic\nacid on the plants as they lie in the press, and\nremoving it again with a brush when the\nflowers are dry. Red colors in particular are\nwell preserved by this agent. Another method\nof applying the same preservative is to use a\nsolution of 1 part of salicylic acid in 14 of alco-\nhol by means of blotting paper or cotton wool\nsoaked in it and placed above and below the\nflowers. Powdered boracic acid yields nearly as\ngood results. Dr. Schonland, in the Gardeners\nChronicle, recommends, as an improvement in\nthe method of using sulphurous acid for pre-\nserving the color, that in the case of delicate\nflowers they might be placed loosely between\nsheets of vegetable parchment before immer-\nsion in the liquid, so as to preserve their natu-\nral form.\n3, Insert their stems in water in which 35 grn.\nammonium chloride (sal ammoniac) have been\ndissolved. Flowers can be preserved in this\nway for fifteen to thirty days. To preserve\nthem permanently for several months dip them\ninto perfectly limpid gum water and then allow\nthem to drain. The gum forms a complete coat-\ning on the stems and petals, and preserves their\nshape and color long after they have become\ndry.\nFlowers in Water.— Any kind of flower can be\nwell preserved for at least two weeks by rut-\nting a little saltpeter or carbonate of soda in\nthe water in which the flowers are left stand-\ning.\nFlowers, Varnish for. S*e Varnishes.\nWaxes.\nFlowers, Wax, to TJIak\nsjeVa,","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0237.jp2"},"234":{"fulltext":"Fluorescent Liquids.\n222\nFluxes.\nFluorescent Liquids. The following\ntable shows the characteristic colors of\nSubstances. Transmitted. Reflected.\nQ-n-e T ™C Pale blue.\njEsculine Straw color. Pale blue.\nAmido-phthalic\nacid Paleyellow Pale violet.\nAmido tere-\nphthalic acid... Pale green Bright green.\nPaviine Palegreen Bluegreen.\nFluorescine....... Orange red. Intense green\nEosin Orange Gamboge.\nRose of Magdala. ^mine and^ J Opaque^\nSaflfronin Crimson.\nDirty yellow.\nFluxes.— These articles being- easy to fuse,\nare added to substances which are more re-\nfractory, to promote their fusion. Following\nis a list of the most common fluxes, with a\nbrief account of their properties and uses\n1. Ammonium Chloride (AmCl), called sal am-\nmoniac. This substance is decomposed by sev-\neral metals forming- metallic chlorides and\nliberating ammonia, which property is taken\nadvantage of in purifying gold. A similar re-\naction occurs with several metallic salts.\n2. Sodium Chloride (NaCl), or common salt, is\nemployed for preserving the substance beneath\nfrom the action of the atmosphere, and to\nmoderate the action of bodies which cause\nviolent ebullition. It melts and volatilizes at a\nred heat in an open crucible, but requires a\nwhite heat to vaporize it in a closed vessel.\nWhen heated to redness with silica it forms a\nreadily fusible silicate. It forms fusible com-\npounds with antimony and arsenic, thus re-\nmoving them from other metals during the\nprocess of refining. As the crystals decrepi-\ntate when heated, common salt should be pow-\ndered before using as a flux.\n3. Borax (B 4 7 Na 2 In the crystalline form\nit may contain 5 or 10 molecules of water,\nwhich are given off on heating, causing an en-\normous increase in volume, so that the vitrified\nform is much more suitable for assaying. It\nforms fusible compounds with silica and nearly\nall bases, being especially useful in uniting-\nwith metallic oxides, sulphides and arsenides.\nThe commercial salt is adulterated with com-\nmon salt and alum.\n4. Sodium Carbonate (Na 2 C0 3 has the prop-\nerty of oxidizing many metals, such as tin,\niron, zinc, etc., by the action of its carbonic\nacid, and as a consequence of this action it\nacts as a desulphurizer. It forms fusible com-\npounds with silica and many metallic oxides; it\nalso melts at a low temperature, absorbing-\nmany infusible substances, such as lime, alum-\nina, charcoal, etc. In some cases it acts as a\nreducing agent, as in the case of chloride of\nsilver. When mixed with carbonate of potash\na double salt is formed, which fuses at a lower\ntemperature than either taken alone, a prop-\nerty very useful in the fusion of silicates, etc.\n5. Potassium Nitrate (KN0 3 also called niter\nand saltpeter, is largely used as an oxidizing\nagent. It fuses below redness and at a higher\ntemperature is decomposed, yielding a large\nvolume of oxygen, whereby the sulphur of\nmetallic sulphides is converted into sulphurous\nacid and the metals into oxides. Sodium\nnitrate acts in the same way.\n6. Potassium Bitartrate (THoKo), known also\nas cream of tartar or tartar. When pure this\nsubstance is white, but the variety chiefly used\non the large scale is colored and sold as red\nargol. This is cheaper, and contains other car-\nbonaceous matters, which give it greater re-\nducing power than pure cream of tartar. This\nreagent is very valuable in operations requir-\ning much carbonaceous matter.\n7. Potassium Chlorate (KC10 3 This substance\nis sometimes used with niter as an oxidizing\nagent, especially in assaying.\n8. Potassium Cyanide (KCN).— This flux is\nvaluable on. account of the f acuity with which\nit fuses and the readiness with which it reduces\nmany metallic compounds when mixed with\ncarbonate of soda. Common cyanide is prefer-\nable as a reducing agent, because it contains\ncarbonate of potash.\n9. Calcium Oxide (CaO) or lime is used in the\ncaustic state, or combined with carbonic acid\nin the form of carbonate. It is a useful flux\nfor silica and silicates, and is also used to re-\nmove sulphur and phosphorus from metals and\ntheir compounds.\n10. Calcium Fluoride (CaF 2 or fluorspar.\nThis substance acts as a flux in two ways:\n1. By combining with silicates, forming fusible\ncompounds. 2. By reacting with silicates and\nevolving the gas silicon fluoride Si F 4 It forms\nfusible compounds with sulphates, such as\nplaster of Paris, and with phosphate of lime\n(bone ash). It should be free from pyrites,\nblende and galena, with which it is likely to be\ncontaminated.\n11. Lead Oxide.— There are two oxides of lead\nof importance in treating metals, viz., litharge\n(PbO) and red lead (Pb 8 4 Both oxides are\nreduced by carbon or hydrogen, producing\nmetallic lead. Lead oxides, when melted, ox-\nidize nearly all metals, except mercury, gold,\nsilver and platinum. With other oxides they\nform easily fusible compounds. When heated\nwith sulphur, lead oxides are reduced and sul-\nphurous acid is liberated. When oxide of lead\nin sufficient quantity is melted with an infus-\nible silicate, a fusible double silicate is formed.\n12. Manganese Dioxide (Mn0 2 This sub-\nstance is black in color, opaque and a good con-\nductor of electricity. When heated alone it is\ninfusible, but gives off oxygen, forming Mn 2 3\nor Mn 3 4 according to the degree of heat em-\nployed; heated with charcoal it is reduced to\nMnO. The facility with which it gives up oxy-\ngen makes it a valuable oxidizing agent. With\nhydrochloric acid it is extensively used for\ngenerating chlorine. When strongly heated in\nj a crucible lined with a paste of carbon it is re-\nduced to the metallic state.\n13. Silica (Si0 2 This body occurs in crystal-\nline and amorphous forms; it is white, infus-\nible, except at the very highest temperatures,\nnon-volatile, insoluble in water and acids, ex-\ncept hydrofluoric; after ignition it is decom-\nposed by carbon in the presence of iron, cop-\nper or silver at a white heat, forming silicides\nof those metals. The amorphous and gelatin-\nous varieties are slightly soluble in alkaline\ncarbonates, but readily soluble in caustic al-\nkalies. It combines with all the bases forming-\nsilicates, and is, therefore, frequently employed\n1 to effect the fusion and separation of gangues\nin ores, the best forms to use being pure white\nsand and quartz.\n14. China Clay is essentially a hydrated sili-\ncate of alumina, and when pure may be repre-\nsented by the formula (2A1 2 3 3Si0 3 )+30H 2\nbut clay is generally mixed with other silicates.\nIt is white and infusible in an ordinary fur-\nnace when heated alone, but readily unites\nwith earthy and metallic gangues to form a\nfusible slag.\n15. Glass is a mixture of silicates of sodium\nand potassium with some insoluble silicate;\nsuch as silicate of barium, magnesium, alum-\ninum, iron or lead. Being a compound silicate,\nit fuses easily at a high temperature, and\nreadily combines with lime and other bases\ncontaining little or no silica, so that it is often\npreferred to pure silica, and serves to econo-\nmize borax. It is also employed as a covering-\nin melting metals, so as to exclude the air.\nPlate or window glass, or green bottle glass, is\nthe most useful, but flint glass, which contains\nmuch oxide of lead, would be detrimental in-\nmany cases.\n16. Ferrous Sulphide (FeS) is chiefly used as a.\nsource of sulphureted hydrogen. Roasted\nwith easily decomposable sulphides, such as\nthat of silver, it converts them into sulphates.\nHeated with oxides of copper, nickel, etc., it.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0238.jp2"},"235":{"fulltext":"Fly.\n223\nFoils.\nforms regulus. Heated in air it is oxidized to\nsulphate, and at a high temperature to oxide.\n17. Iron Pyrites (FeS»).— This body loses half\nits sulphur at a white heat, forming ferrous\nsulphide, and is used for similar purposes to\nthat compound. It is chiefly employed in the\nmetallurgy of copper, nickel and cobalt.\n18. Ferric Oxide (Fe 2 OQ).— This oxide is very\nstable, non- volatile, and of a red color. At a\nwhite heat it gives up oxygen, forming Fe^O^.\nBy heating with carbon, or carbonic oxide, it is\nreduced to the metallic state, but if much car-\nbonic acid is present, ferrous oxide may be\nformed, which combines with any silica pres-\nent, forming a fusible silicate. For this reason\nit is sometimes used as a flux. In refining iron\nit acts as an oxidizing agent. In presence of\nsulphur it oxidizes that element to sulphurous\nacid.\n19. Zinc Oxide (ZnO) is a powerful base; it\nforms combinations with alkaline earths and\nseveral bases, and has a strong affinity for\nalumina. It is reduced by carbon, carbonic\noxide and hydrogen. Zinc oxide and carbon in\nsmall quantity is added to molten copper for\nproducing sound castings.\nThe above synopsis of fluxes is due to Hiorn s\nvaluable work, Mixed Metals.\n1. Black Flux. Cream of tartar, 2 parts; niter,\n1 part; powder, mix and deflagrate, by small\nquantities at a time, in a red hot crucible. This\nis merely carbonate of potash, mixed with\ncharcoal in a finely divided state. It is used f or\nsmelting metallic ores, and exercises a reducing\naction, as well as promoting the fusion.\n2. White Flux, Cornish Refining Flux.— Cream.\nof tartar and niter, equal parts; deflagrate as\nlast.\n3. Morveau^s Reducing Flux.— Powdered glass\n(containing no lead), 1 lb.; calcined borax, 2 oz.;\npowdered charcoal, 1 oz.; mix. Used for the\nsame purposes as black flux.\n4. Cornish Reducing Flux.— Cream, of tartar,\n10 oz.; niter, 4 oz.; borax, 3 oz.; mix.\n5. Crude Flux.— Niter mixed with twice its\nweight of tartar, without deflagration. Re-\nducing.\n6. Borax, tartar, niter, sal ammoniac, com-\nmon salt, limestone, glass, fluorspar, and sev-\neral other substances are used as fluxes in\nmetallurgy.\nFlux forReducing Arsenic. —Carbonate of soda\nin crystals, 8 parts; finely powdered charcoal,\n1 part; heat gradually to a red heat.\nEnamel Flux. 1. Eight parts red lead, 6 parts\nflint glass, 3 parts borax, 3 parts flint. 2. 7 parts\nred lead, 4 parts borax, 2*4 parts flint. 3. 4\nparts borax, 3 parts red lead, 3 parts flint glass,\n2 parts flint. 4. 3 parts red lead, 1 part flint\nglass, 1 part flint.\nGold Flux.— Eleven parts borax, 5)4 parts\nlitharge, 1 part oxide of silver. In these en-\namel fluxes the materials are to be made very\nfine, particularly the flint, and mixed well to-\ngether, so that the particles may more easily\nconcrete when in a state of fusion then cal-\ncined in an air furnace or an earthenware glaz-\ning oven, when the whole mass, by means of the\nproper temperature of fire, will be changed\ninto a brittle, resplendent and transparent\nglass.\nFluxes for Soldering or Welding.—\nIron or steel Borax or sal ammoniac.\nTinned iron Resin or chloride of zinc.\nCopper and brass Sal ammoniac or chloride\nof zinc.\nZinc Chloride of zinc.\nLead Tallow or resin.\nLead and tin pipes. .Resin and sweet oil.\nFlux for Soldering Zinc— Dissolve small bits\nof zinc, or zinc drops, in muriatic acid, mixed\nwith an equal bulk of water.\nFly Paper. See Paper.\nFly Specks, to Remove. See Cleans-\ning.\nFly Poison.— 1. A strong solution of white-\narsenic (say 1 drm. to the pt.) sweetened with\nmoist sugar, molasses or honey. Poisoti.\n2. Molasses, honey or moist sugar, mixed with\nabout one-twelfth their weight of King s yel-\nlow or orpiment. Both the above are danger-\nous preparations, and should never be employed\nwhere there are children.\n3. (Redwood) quassia chips (small), J4 oz.;\nwater, 1 pt.; boil ten minutes, strain and add\nof molasses, 4 oz. Flies will drink this with\navidity, and are soon destroyed by it.\n4. Black pepper, 1 teaspoonf ul; brown sugar,\n•2 teaspoonfuls; cream, 4 teaspoonfuls. Fly\nPowder. The dark gray colored powder (so\ncalled suboxide) obtained by the free exposure\nof metallic arsenic to the air. Mixed with\nsweets, it is used to kill flies. See also Flies,\nabove.\nFoils, (From feuille, Fr., or folium, Lat.,\na leaf.) Thin leaves of polished metal, put\nunder stones or pastes, to heighten the effect.\nFoils were formerly made of copper, tinned\ncopper, tin and silvered copper, but the latter\nis that wholly used for superior work at the\npresent day. There are two descriptions of\ntoils employed, viz., white, for diamonds and\nmock diamonds, and colored, for the colored\ngems. The latter are prepared by varnishing\nthe former. By their judicious use the color\nof a stone may be often modified. Thus, by\nplacing a yellow foil under a green stone that\nturns too much on the blue, or a red one\nturning too much on the crimson, the hues\nwill be brightened.\n1. White or Common Foil.— This is made by\ncoating a plate of copper with a layer of silver,\nand then rolling it into sheets in the flatting\nmill. The foil is then highly polished or var-\nnished.\n2. Colored Foils.— These are made by coloring\nthe preceding foil, highly polished, with certain\ntransparent solutions or varnishes The fol-\nlowing produce beautiful colored effects, when\njudiciously employed\n3. Blue. Prussian blue (preferably Turn-\nbull s) ground with pale, quick drying oil.\nUsed to deepen the color of sapphires. It may\nbe diluted with oil.\n4. Green. a. Pale shellac, dissolved in alco-\nhol (lacquer) and tinged green by dissolving\nverdigris or acetate of copper in it. b. Sesqui-\nferrocyanuret of iron and bichromate of po-\ntassa, of each y% oz.; grind them with a stone\nand muller to a fine powder, add gum mastic\n(clean and also in fine powder) 2 oz.; grind\nagain, add a little pyroxilic spirit, and again\ngrind until the mass becomes homogeneous and\nof a fine transparent green; the beauty in-\ncreases with the length of the grinding. The\npredominance of the bichromate turns it on the\nyellowish green; that of the salt of iron, on the\nbluish green. For use it is to be thinned with\npyroxilic spirit. (Chemist, iii., 238.) This is\nused for emeralds. It may be brightened by\nadding a little yellow varnish.\n5. Yellow.— a. Various shades of yellow may\nbe produced by tinging a weak alcoholic solu-\ntion of shellac or mastic, by digesting tur-\nmeric, annatto, saffron, or socotrine aloes\ntherein. The former is the brightest and\nmost fit for topazes, b. Digest hay saffron in\nfive or six times its weight of boiling water,\nuntil the latter becomes sufficiently colored,\nfilter and add a little solution of gum or isin-\nglass. When dry, a coating of spirit varnish\nshould be applied.\n6. Red.— Carmine dissolved in spirits of harts-\nhorn, or a weak solution of salt of tartar, and\ngum added as above.\n7. Garnet.— Dragon s blood dissolved in recti-\nfied spirit of wine.\n8. Vineger Garnet.— Orange lake finely tem-\npered with shellac varnish.\n9. Amethyst.— Lake and Prussian blue, finely\nground in pale drying oil.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0239.jp2"},"236":{"fulltext":"Foment at ion.\n224\nFrosting,\n10. Eagle Marine.— Verdigris tempered in\nshellac varnish (alcoholic,) with a little Prus-\nsian blue.\n11. Ruby.— a. Lake or carmine, ground in\nisinglass, b. Lake ground in shellac varnish.\nUsed when the color turns on the purple.\nc. Bright lake ground in oil; used when the\ncolor turns on the scarlet or orange.\n12. Diamond.— a. Cover the inside of the\nsocket in which the stone or paste is to be set\nwith tin foil, by means of a little stiff gum or\nsize; when dry, polish the surface, heat the\nsocket, fill it with warm quicksilver, let it rest\nfor two or three minutes, then pour it out and\ngently fit in the stone; lastly well close the\nwork round the stone, to prevent the alloy\nbeing shaken out. b. Coat the bottom of the\nstone with a film of real silver, by precipitating\nit from a solution of the nitrate in spirits of\nammonia by means of the oils of cassia and\ncloves. Both these methods vastly increase\nthe brilliancy both of real and factitious gems.\nFomentation.— A liquid, either simple or\nmedicated, used for local bathing. Fomenta-\ntions are distinguished from lotions chiefly in\nbeing applied in a heated state and in larger\nquantities and for a longer period at a time.\nFomentations are chiefly employed to allay\npain or irritation, or to promote suppuration,\nor the healthy action of the parts.\nDried mallows, 2 oz.; chamomile flowers,\ndried, 1 oz.; 1 qt. water. Boiled for twenty\nminutes and strained.\nFoot Powders. See Powders.\nFossils, to Take Casts of.— Clear the\nedges of the fossil of the limestone, etc., it may\nbe imbedded in and paste all round its circum-\nference a piece of smooth note paper, thus\nmaking a mould, say half an inch deep. Before,\nhowever, pasting the paper, well blacklead the\nsurface of fossil and rub it with grease. Then,\nafter pasting, pour into mould some melted\nwax, sufficient to make a mould, say half an\ninch thick. When cool remove the paper and\nwax, trim up if ragged in any part, and then\npaste another piece of paper around the wax,\nmaking the mould to receive the plaster of\nParis for casts. The plaster of Paris should be\nvery fine, and should be mixed with water con-\ntaining a little albumen, then poured into\nmould and allowed to harden, afterward re-\nmoving and sharpening up with a fine pointed\nneedle. The cast may now be painted, so as to\nimitate original fossil.\nFoundry Recipes\n1. Fire clay crucibles, 2 Stourbridge clay,\n1 hard gas coke, finely\npowdered.\n2. Berlin crucibles, 8 Stourbridge clay,\n3 old crucibles, ground\nfinely,\n5 coke,\n4 graphite or blacklead.\n3. Blacklead crucibles. 1 fire clay,\n2 graphite.\nSee also Crucibles above.\nFrames, Gold Tarnish for. See Tar-\nnishes. To Gild. See Gilding.\nFrames, to Renovate. See Cleansing.\nFrankfort Rlack. See Pigments,\nBlack, Frankfort.\nFrankincense.— The turpentine which\nexudes from the bark of Abies excelsa (Norway\nspruce fir), and Pinus palustris (pitch or swamp\npine), hardenened by the air. The gum resin\nolibanum, which is the produce of the Boswel-\nlia thurifera, is the odorous frankincense of\ncommerce.\nPrepared Frankincense.— Frankincense, 1 lb.\nwater, q. s. to cover it boil until the resin is\nmelted, and strain through a hair sieve when\nthe whole has cooled pour off the water, and\nkeep the frankincense for use. Resembles\ncommon resin in its general properties.\nFreckles. See Cosmetics.\nFreezing Mixtures. See table on page\n225.\nFrench Rerries.— Persian berries. The\nberries or fruit of the Rhamnus infectorius.\nThey are imported from France and Persia;\nthose from the latter country being esteemed\nthe best. Their decoction dyes cloth, mor-\ndanted with alum, tartar, or protomuriate of\ntin, of a yellow color; with sulphate of copper,\nan olive, and with red sulphate of iron, an\nolive green color.\nFrench Chalk. Steatite or talc. It is\nmuch used in the arts.\nFrench Polish. See Polishing, Wood,\nFrench.\nFriction.— The ratio obtained by dividing\nthe entire force of friction by the normal pres-\nsure is called the coefficient of friction, hence\nwe may define the unit or coefficient of fric-\ntion to be the friction due to a normal pres-\nsure of one pound\nIron on oak 0 62\nCast iron on oak 0*49\nOak on oak, fibers parallel G 48\nOak on oak, greased 0 10\nCast iron on cast iron. t 0 15\nWrought iron on wrought iron. 0*14\nBrass on iron 0*16\nBrass on brass 0*20\nWrought iron on cast iron 0*19\nCast iron on elm 0*19\nSoft limestone on the same 0*64\nHard limestone on the same 0*38\nLeather belts on wooden pulleys 0 47\nLeather belts on cast iron pulleys 0*28\nCast iron on cast iron, greased 0*10\nPivots or axes of wrought or cast iron, on\nbrass or cast iron pillows\nFirst, when constantly supplied with oil.0 05\nSecond, when greased from time to time.0 08\nThird, without any application 0 15\nFriction Matches. See Matches.\nFrilling. See Photography.\nFritt.— For making glazes many substances\nwould be unfitted on account of being soluble\nin water, but if these substances, such as\nborax, soda or niter are fused into a glass, this\nglass can be run into water, thus breaking it\nup into fragments. This is called a fritt. The\nfritt is now pulverized and mixed with other\nmaterials and water.\nFrost Rites.— For frost bites rub the af-\nfected parts with pure oil of peppermint. It\nwill also prevent the after effect of chilblains.\nCare should be taken to use only the pure oil,\nand not the essence of peppermint, as the es-\nsence will not have the desired effect.\nFrosting of Cutlery, etc. By etching\nthe polished surface with acid. The articles\nai^e first heated to about 212°, then a thin coat\nof beeswax is melted over their surface, and\nwhen this cools the design is scratched through\nthe wax by a needle, the acid is then poured on\nthe design, and may be prevented from falling\noff by a little wall of wax built around the de-\nsign. Muriatic acid answers very well for etch-\ning. The time required for the operation is\nbest found by a little practice, as the fine lines\nof the design take more time to etch than is\nrequired for the coarse ones. When it is de-\ncided that the etching is complete, with clean\ncold water thoroughly wash away all traces of\nacid and then with a little benzine remove the\nwax and polish with clean, dry chamois leather.\nFrosting Glass. See Glass.\nFrosting and Whitening of Silver\nGoods, Pickle for.- Sulphuric acid,l^drm.;\nwater, 6 oz. Heat and immerse the silver un-\ntil frosted as desired. Wash well, dry with a\nsoft linen cloth or in fine sawdust. For whi-\ntening only, use less acid. See also Silver.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0240.jp2"},"237":{"fulltext":"Freezing Mixtures.\n225\nFreezing Mixtures.\nFreezing Mixtures.\nMixtures.\n1.\n2.\n3.\n4.\n5.\n6.\n7.\n8.\n9.\n10.\n11.\n12.\n13.\n14.\n15.\n16.\n17.\n18.\n19.\n20.\n21.\n22.\n23.\n24.\n25.\n26.\n27.\n28.\n29.\nTwo parts snow or pounded ice, 1 part sodium chloride.\nFive parts snow or pounded ice, 2 parts sodium chloride, 1\npart ammonium chloride f\nTwenty -four parts snow or pounded ice, 10 parts sodium\nchloride, 5 parts ammonium chloride, 5 parts potassium\nnitrate\nTwelve parts snow or pounded ice, 5 parts sodium chloride,\n5 parts ammonium nitrate f\nThree parts sodium phosphate, 2 parts ammonium nitrate, I\n4 parts diluted mixed acids f\nEight parts snow, 10 parts dilute sulphuric acid\nOne part snow, 3 parts crystallized calcium chloride\nFive parts sodium phosphate, 3 parts ammonium nitrate, 4\nparts dilute nitric acid\nOne part ammonium nitrate, 1 part water\nFive parts ammonium chloride, 5 parts potassium nitrate, j\n16 parts water f\nOne part snow, 1 part dilute sulphuric acid\nThree parts snow, 2 parts dilute nitric acid\nThermometer\nsinks\nActual\nReduction\nof Tem-\nperature\ni\na\n2\nto\nto\n5\n-12\nto -18\nto —25\nEight parts snow, 3 parts dilute sulphuric acid, 3 parts j\ndilute nitric acid ....f\nFive parts ammonium chloride, 5 parts potassium nitrate,\n8 parts sodium sulphate, 16 parts water\nFive parts sodium sulphate, 4 parts dilute sulphuric acid.\nThree parts sodium nitrate, 2 parts dilute nitric acid\nTwo parts snow, 3 parts calcium chloride\nThree parts snow, 2 parts dilute sulphuric acid\nOne part ammonium nitrate, 1 part sodium carbonate, 1\npart water\nEight parts snow, 5 parts hydrochloric acid.\nSix parts sodium sulphate, 4 parts ammonium chloride, 2\nparts potassium nitrate, 4 parts dilute nitric acid\nNine parts sodium phosphate, 4 parts dilute nitric acid.\nSeven parts snow, 4 parts dilute nitric acid\nOne part snow, 2 parts crystallized calcium chloride.\nThree parts snow, 4 parts calcium chloride.\nFour parts snow, 5 parts calcium chloride\nTwo parts snow, 3 parts crystallized calcium chloride\nThree parts snow, 4 parts potash\n2\nSix parts sodium sulphate, 5 parts ammonium nitrate, 4 I\nparts dilute nitric acid. f\nfrom —34 to —50\nM -68 to\ntl —40 to\nto\n40 to\n50 to\n—20 to\nto\n—91\n—73\n—34\n4\n10\n-60\n—46\n—10 to —56\n50 to 4\n46\n50 to 3\n47\n50 to\n3\n53\n—15 to\n-68\n53\n32 to\n-23\n55\n50 to\n7\n57\n32 to\n-27\n59\n50 to\n-10\n60\n50 to\n-12\n62\n32 to\n-30\n62\nto\n-66\n66\n20 to\n-48\n68\n32 to —40\n72\n32 to\n-50\n82\n32 to\n-51\n83\n50 to\n-40\n90\n16\n23\n33\n34\n36\n40\n40\n46\n46","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0241.jp2"},"238":{"fulltext":"Fruit.\n226\nFulmination.\nFrosty Windows. See Windows,\nFrosty.\nFruit Acid. Citric acid,12oz.; pure water,\n12 oz. Used for flavoring- and for sirups.\nFruit Cans, Cement for. See Cements.\nFruit to Crystallize. The following- pro-\ncess may meet the requirements: Make a\nsirup from 1 lb. of sugar and y pt. of water,\nstir until the sugar is dissolved, then boil\nquickly about three or four minutes. Try by\ndipping- a little in cold water. If it forms a\nsmall ball when rolled between the thumb and\nfinger it has attained the desired degree, known\nas the ball. Throw the fruit to be conserved\na little at a time into this sirup, let it simmer\nfor a moment, lift with a skimmer, draining\nfree from all sirup. Sprinkle sugar thickly\nover boards or tin pans, place the fruit over it\nin a single layer, sprinkle over thickly with\ngranulated sugar and place in the oven or sun\nto dry. When dry, make a sirup as before,\nand just before it reaches the ball degree add\nthe fruit, stir with a wooden spoon until it be-\ngins to grain and sticks to the fruit. When\ncold, sift off the sugar and put out again to\ndry. When dry, place in boxes in layers be-\ntween sheets of waxed paper. Keep in a cool,\ndry place. See also Preserving.\nFruit Essences. See Essences.\nFruit Flavoring s.— I give instructions\nby which all confectioners may extract and\npreserve their own fruit essences, and so guard\nthe health and add to the pleasure of all for\nwhom they provide. Among the juicy fruits\nare strawberries, raspberries, blackberries,\ncherries and currants among non-juicy fruits\nare the apples, pears, peaches, quinces, apricots,\nand plums.\nMash the juicy frviits in a basin to a pulp.\nPlace on the fire and make scalding hot. Now\npour into a hair sieve and allow the juice to\nstrain through. Put into bottles and securely\ntie down. Place these bottles in a caldron of\ncold water and boil for twenty minutes. Re-\nmove from the fire and allow to remain in the\ncaldron until cold. Then set away for use.\nIn the case of non- juicy fruits, such as apples,\npears, peaches, etc., put the fruit into a basin.\nCover with water and boil to a pulp. Now\nplace on a hair sieve and allow to drain without\nany pressing. Observe now that it is only the\nliquor which passes through the sieve without\npressing which is to be used for flavoring pur-\nposes. What remains in the form of pulp is\nnot adapted for these uses. Now put the juice\nobtained as above into bottles, and proceed to\ntreat as already laid down for the juicy fruits.\nThe foregoing processes are to be gone\nthrough with in the case where the extracts are\nto be kept trans parent and clear, as for sirups,\ncordials and beverages.\nIn case where the flavorings are to be used\nfor any purpose where transparency or clear-\nness is not desirable, such as for ice creams,\nfruit ices, or bonbons, then I would use not\nonly the clear fluid, but the pulp of the fruit-\nalso. I would for these opaque purposes save\nand utilize everything of the fruit except the\nskins and seeds. This pulp is to be treated as\nalready laid down.\nAs thus obtained and preserved our confec-\ntioners can supply themselves with a quantity of\nperfectly pure extracts of all their favorite\nfruits, and which can always be at hand, for\nflavoring every description of pastry, cakes,\npies, tarts, puddings, creams, ices and bever-\nages, and at any season of the year. Especially\nwhen there is any one in the house who is sick\nor feverish, cordials may be flavored with these\ndelightful sub-acids— these remedies and rest-\noratives of kind mother Nature herself— such\nas will shoot through all the veins of the most\ndebilitated and infirm the most delicious sen-\nsations of happiness and hope.— James W. Park-\ninson, in Confectioners Journal.\nFruit Salt.— (1.) 2 oz. carbonate soda, 2 oz.\ntartaric acid, 2 oz. cream tartar, 2 oz. Epsom\nsalts, 2 oz. sifted sugar. Dry the salts in the\noven, and beat fine then mix the whole well\ntogether and keep in a dry place. The above\nforms a useful family aperient.\n2. Is composed of carbonate of soda, citric\nacid, fine white sugar and powdered ginger. It\nmakes a pleasant drink and is an excellent\nantagonist to indigestion. Ginger is a carmin-\native, and the carbo ate of soda destroys the\nacidity which occasions flatulency. Lamp-\nlough s pyretic saline is a mixture of carbonate\nof soda and tartaric acid, with 2% potassium\nchlorate.\n3. Carbonate of soda, 4 oz. citrate of mag-\nnesia, 4 oz. tartaric acid, 2^ oz.; cream of tar-\ntar, 2 oz.; Epsom salts, 1 oz. The salts and soda\nto be well dried, and the whole well mixed in\nmortar with pestle.— IT B.\nFuchsinc or Fuscliine. One of the red\ncoloring matters obtained from aniline, gener-\nally included under the common name— ma-\ngenta.\nFuel, Economical. Mix coal, charcoal,\nor sawdust, 1 part; sand of any kind 3 2 parts;\nmarl or clay, 1 part in quantity as thought\nproper. Make the mass up wet into balls of a\nconvenient size, and when the fire is suffi-\nciently strong place these balls, according to\ntheir size, a little above the bar, and they will\nproduce a heat considerably more intense than\ncommon fuel, and insure a saving of one-half\nthe quantity of coals. A fire thus made up\nwill require no stirring nor fresh fuel for ten\nhours.\nFuller s Earth. A soft marl used by ful-\nlers and others in cleansing fabrics.\nFulminating Powder.— Prep.— Niter, 3\nparts carbonate of potash, 2 parts flowers of\nsulphur, 1 part; dry, and reduce them sep-\narately to fine powder, then carefully mix\nthem. About 20 or 25 grn. slowly heated on a\nshovel over the fire, first fuses and becomes\nbrown, and then explodes with a deafening re-\nport.\nFulmination and Fulminates. Syn.\nFulminatio {Lot.). Fulmination (JFV., from\nfulmen, a thunderbolt). Detonation. The term\nis applied in chemistry to the violent explosion\nof a fulminate.\nFulminate of Silver.— Dissolve 10 grn. of pure\nsilver at a gentle heat in 70 minims of ordinary\nconcentrated nitric acid, sp. gr. 1 42, and 50\nminims of water. As soon as the silver is dis-\nsolved the heat is removed, and 200 minims of\nalcohol, sp. gr. 0*87, are added. If the nitric\nacid and alcohol are not of the exact strength\nhere given, it may be difficult to start the ac-\ntion, in which case add two or three drops of\nred nitric acid, which contains nitrous acid.\nStandard silver containing paper may be used\nfor the preparation of the fulminate. If the\naction does not commence after a short time, a\nvery gentle heat may be applied until effer-\nvescence begins, when the fulminate of silver\nwill be deposited in minute needles, an d may\nbe further treated as in the case of fulminate\nof mercury. As the fulminate of silver is ex-\nploded much more readily than the fulminate\nof mercury, it must be handled with the great-\nest caution when dry. It should be separated\ninto small quantities, each portion wrapped in\npaper, and kept in a cardboard box nothing\nharder than this should be brought in contact\nwith it. This mixture is of no use for percus-\nsion caps, being too violent in its action.\nTlwowdown Detonating Cracker— Screw up a\nparticle of fulminate of silver in a piece of thin\npaper, with some fragments of a crushed\nquartz pebble.\nDouble Fulminate of Silver and Ammonia.—\nDissolve fulminate of silver in warm ammonia;\nthe solution, on cooling, will deposit crystals of\nthe double fulminate. This is very violent in","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0242.jp2"},"239":{"fulltext":"Fumigation.\n227\nFuse] Oil.\nits explosion, and is dangerous while still\nmoist.\nFulminating Platinum.— Dissolve binoxide of\nplatinum in diluted sulphuric acid mix the\nsolution with excess of ammonia a black pre-\ncipitate is obtained, which detonates violently\nat about 400° F.\nFulminating Gold. Add ammonia to a solu-\ntion of terchloride of gold; the buff precipitate\nwhich it deposits is violently explosive at a\ngentle heat.\nTerchloride of Gold.— Dissolve gold in hydro-\nchloric acid with one-fourth of its volume of\nnitric acid. Evaporate on a water bath to a\nsmall bulk; when cool, yellow prismatic crys-\ntals of a compound of the terchloride, with\nhydrochloric acid are deposited, from which\nthe hydrochloric acid may be expelled by a\ngentle heat, not exceeding 250° The ter-\nchloride forms a red brown deliquescent mass,\nwhich dissolves very readily in water.\nFumigation. 1. The diffusion of gaseous\nmatter or vapors through the atmosphere, for\nthe purpose of destroying contagion and infec-\ntion. 2. The exposure of solid bodies to such\nfumes or vapors to remove the miasm of con-\ntagion from their pores. See also Disin-\nfectants.\nFumigating Paper. See Paper.\nFumigating Pastils. See Pastils.\nFuming (Paper). See Photography.\nFurniture, to Take Bruises Out of.\nWet the part with warm water; double a\npiece of brown paper five or six times, soak it\nin warm water, and lay it on the place apply\n•On that a warm, but not hot, flat iron till the\nmoisture is evaporated. If the bruise be not\ngone, repeat the process. After two or three\n.applications, the dent or bruise will be raised\nto the surface. If the bruise be small, merely\nsoak it with warm Avater, and hold a red hot\niron near the surface, keeping the surface con-\ntinually wet— the bruise will soon disappear.\nFurniture Cream.— 1. Yellow wax, 4oz.;\nyellow soap, 2 oz.; water, 50 oz.; boil, with con-\nstant stirring, and add boiled oil and oil of tur-\npentine, each 5 oz.\n2. Soft water, lgal.; soap, 4 oz.; white wax,\nin shavings, 1 lb. Boil together, and add 2 oz.\nof pearlash. To be diluted with water, laid on\nwith a paintbrush, and polished off with a hard\nbrush or cloth.\n3. Wax, 3 oz. pearlash, 2 oz. water, 6 oz.\nHeat together, and add 4 oz. of boiled oil and 5\noz. of spirits of turpentine.\nWhite Furniture Cream. Raw linseed oil, 6\noz. white wine vinegar, 3 oz. methylated\nspirit, 3 oz.; butter of antimony, y z oz.; mix the\nUnseed oil with the vinegar by degrees, and\nshake well so as to prevent separation add the\nspirit and antimony, and mix thoroughly.\nFurniture Oil.— Linseed oil,4oz.; vinegar,\n2 oz.; mucilage, oil of turpentine, alcohol, J4\noz. each butter of antimony, y 8 oz.; hydro-\nchloric acid, Yz oz.; or linseed oil, 4 fl. oz.; oil of\nturpentine, 2 oz. alcohol, 2 oz. resin, 1 oz.\nrose pink, J4 oz.\n2. Boiled linseed oil, 1 pt.; yellow wax, 4 oz.;\nmelt, and color with alkanet root.\n2. Acetic acid, 2 drm.; oil of lavender, Yz drm.;\nrectified spirit, 1 drm.; linseed oil, 4 oz.\n4. Linseed oil, 1 pt. alkanet root, 2 oz. heat,\nstrain and add lac varnish, 1 oz.\n5. Linseed oil, 1 pt.; rectified spirit, 2 oz.; but-\nter of antimony, 4 oz.\nOil for Darkening Furniture. 1. One pt. lin-\nseed oil 1 oz. rose pink, and 1 oz. of alkanet\nroot, beaten up in a metal mortar; let the\nmixture stand for a day or two then pour off\nthe oil, which will be found of a rich color.\nOr mix 1 oz. of alkanet root with 4 oz. of shel-\nlac varnish, 2 oz. of turpentine, the same quan-\ntity of scraped beeswax, and 1 pt. of linseed\n•oil this should stand a week.\nFurniture Paste.— 1. To keep wood light,\nscrape M lb- beeswax into y* pt. of turpentine.\nBy adding linseed oil the wood is darkened.\n2. Dissolve 6 oz. pearlash inl qt. of hot water,\nadd J4 lb. of white wax, and simmer for half an\nhour in a pipkin take from off the fire, and\nwhen cool the wax will float, which should be\ntaken off, and, with a little hot water, worked\ninto a paste.\n3. Beeswax, spirits of turpentine and linseed\noil, equal parts; melt and cool.\n4. Beeswax, 4oz.; turpentine, 19 oz.; alkanet\nroot to color melt and strain.\n5. Digest 2 drm. of alkanet root in 20 oz. of\nturpentine till the color is imparted add yel-\nlow wax in shavings, 4 oz.; place on a water\nbath and stir till the mixture is complete.\n6. Beeswax, 1 lb.; linseed oil, 5 oz.; alkanet\nroot, 3^j oz.; melt, add 5 oz. of turpentine, strain\nand cool.\n7. Beeswax, 4 oz.; resin, 1 oz.; oil of turpen-\ntine, 2 oz.; Venetian red to color.\n8. One lb. of white wax; 1 oz. black resin; 1\noz. alkanet root, and 10 oz. linseed oil.\nFurniture Polish. See Polisliing, Wood.\nFurniture Renovator. Mix together\n2 lb. oil of amber (refined); olive oil, 2 lb.; tinc-\nture of henna, 2 oz. Apply with a rag.\nFurniture Reviver. Pale linseed oil,\nraw, 10 oz. lac varnish and wood spirit, of\neach 5 oz. Mix well before using.\nFurniture, to Restore. See Cleans-\ning.\nFurniture, Varnish, for. See Var-\nnishes.\nFurs, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nFurs and Skins, to Preserve. See also\nTanning.— 1. To preserve skins of any kind.\nFirst stretch them out on a board with tacks\nas soon as taken from the body; then cover\nthem with wood ashes; let them remain a fort-\nnight, and renew the ashes every three days.\n2. The following soap is recommended by\nWard, of London The skins must be well\nsci-aped and divested of all fat, and well rub-\nbed with the soap; 1 lb. yellow soap, 1 oz. lime,\n1 oz. camphor, 1 oz. arsenic, 1 oz. alum; mixed\ntogether.\n3. Sublimed sulphur and nitrate of potash, of\neach 2 drm.; black pepper, camphor, bichloride\nof mercury, burnt alum, and tobacco, of each\ny% oz.; reduce to a fine powder.\n4. Bichloride of mercury, 1 oz.; hydrochloric\nacid, 3 drm.; methylated spirit of wine, add to,\n2 oz. Use as follows: Pour sufficient into a\ncup, and paint it freely on with a brush, espe-\ncially about the cavities of the skull, the arms,\nwings, and thighs. A liberal supply of the\npowder (No. 3) afterward to the same\nparts will insure their keeping any length of\ntime (that is, if you have any doubt about their\nkeeping). If you would prefer it, you may use\nthe powder alone.\n5. To preserve and render the skins of moles\nsoft and pliant soak them for three or four\ndays in water which has had oak sapling bark\nboiled in it for two or three hours. To 2 qt.\nwater put a good double handful or more of\noak bark, or, better still, oak galls, and when\nthis has got cold, put the mole skins in, fresh\nflayed. They will dry soft and pliant, and per-\nfectly cured.\n6. Nothing is required to preserve mole skins\nbut drying. Skin them neatly, turn them in-\nside out, hang to dry, turn them when dry, and\nscrape them with a blunt knife.\nFusel Oil.— Fousel Oil, Potato Oil, Oil of Po-\ntato Sjnrit, Ghrain Oil, Grain Spirit Oil, Marc\nBrandy Oil, Crude Hydrated Oxide of Amyl.—\nAn offensive strong smelling oil, produced\nalong with alcohol during the fermentation of\ngrain, potatoes, etc., on the large scale, and\nwhich gives the peculiar and disagreeable fla-\nvor and odor to raw whisky. It is found chiefly\nin the last portion of the spirit which passes\nH","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0243.jp2"},"240":{"fulltext":"Fusible Metals.\n228\nGas.\nover, called the faints, to which it imparts\nits characteristic odor and flavor. By rectify-\ning the faints at a very gentle heat, most of\nthe alcohol and water first pass over together\nwith only a little fusel oil, while the latter\nforms the residuum in the still.\nFusible Metals. See Alloys.\nFustic.— A species of mulberry; it is exten-\nsively used in dyeing.\nFusion.— The liquefaction of solid bodies\nby the action of heat. The term aqueous fu-\nsion has been applied to the melting of salts in\ntheir water of crystallization; and the term\nigneous fusion to the liquefaction of bodies by\nheat alone.\nGallipot.— A Frengh term for that portion\nof turpentine which gathers on the trunk of\nthe tree when wounded, and is removed in the\nwinter\nGall. -Ox gall, the bile of an ox. It is of\ngreat use in removing spots, etc.\nGall, to Decolorize.— To a pint of gall, boiled\nand skimmed, add 1 oz. of alum and leave the\nmixture on the fire until the alum is dissolved.\nWhen cold pour into a bottle and cork loosely.\nNext treat another pint of gall in the same\nway. only substituting salt for alum. In about\nthree months these preparations will deposit a\nsedimeut, then decant the fluid portion and\nmix them. A precipitate is immediately form-\ned, which takes down the coloring matter and\nthe fluid portion is removed.\nOx Gall, to Clarify.— Let the gall of a newly\nkilled ox settle for twelve hours; pour off the\nliquor and boil until somewhat thick. Then\nspread it upon a dish until almost dry; place\nin jelly pots covered with paper. When de-\nsired for use dissolve a small piece in a table-\nspoonful of water.\nGall Nuts.— The so-called gall nuts are not,\nas commonly supposed a fruit, but a diseased\ngrowth produced upon the twigs of a dwarf\noak, Quercus infectoria, when irritated by the\neggs of the gall wasp, Cynips gallae tinctoriae.\nThe part of the branch where the egg is depos-\nited swells into a round nutlike mass, within\nwhich the larvae of the insect grows and un-\ndergoes its metamorphosis. The tannin con-\ntained in the gall nut is not only larger in\namount than in most other natural sources of\nthis principle, but is of finer quality. Hence\nthey are selected as the best material for the\npreparation of pure tannin.\nGalvanizing.— 1. For galvanizing cast iron\nwith zinc, first clean the castings thoroughly\nby immersing in a bath of 1 part muriatic acid,\n2 parts water, for a few hours; wash thoroughly\nin hot water and scrub with brush and sand.\nThen dip in a solution of sal ammoniac and\nwater, y% lb. to the gal., hot. Dry quickly and\ndip in the zinc bath.\n2. To galvanize sheet iron work, dip in a bath\nof muriatic acid 1 part, water 4 parts; leave the\nwork in long enough to break up the scale;\nclean with brushes or scrapers so that the sur-\nfaces shall be free from scale or dirt. Then dip\nin a fresh bath of muriatic acid and water, 1 to\n4, with about 1 oz. sal ammoniac to the gal. of\nsolution. Then dry quickly and thoroughly in\na hot oven or on hot plates of iron and dip in\nthe zinc bath. Never dip if any moisture re-\nmains among laps or rivets, for an explosion\nwill ensue. Heat the zinc so that it will have a\nclear shining surface. Sprinkle a little pow-\ndered sal ammoniac upon the surface to clear\nit. Skim away the dross.\n3. Clean all scale, rust and dirt or oil from\nthe surface, and if oily, by boiling in caustic\nsoda, and then remove scale and rust by a bath\nof hydrochloric acid and water. If necessary\na little scrubbing with a metallic brush, and\nthen thoroughly rinse in hot water and dry\nquickly. After drying immerse in a bath of\nmelted zinc, at the same time sprinkle a little\npowdered sal ammoniac upon the surface of\nthe melted zinc to clear it. Judgment is re-\nquired as to length of time for the immersion\nand temperature of the melted zinc. Very\nsmall work immersed but a few seconds.\nGalvanized Iron, Crystals on.— Clean it per-\nfectly with a solution of chloride of zinc, and\nyou will find that the coating is already crys-\ntalline. Or use a wash of dilute nitric acid, 1 of\nacid to 1 of water, and wash in a stream of\nclean water\nGamboge.— A gum resin which exudes from\ntrees in Ceylon; 85% is soluble in alcohol.\nGangue. Is a term applied to the earthy\nmatter of iron and other ores. It consists\nchiefly of clay.\nGanister.— A refractory material used for\nthe lining of Bessemer converters, and of steel\nmoulds. It consists of a highly siliceous ma-\nterial cemented with fire clay, the silica equal-\ning about 90%.\nGanteine. See Cleansing.\nGargle.— A gargle, or wash for the throat.\nGargles are applied by allowing a small mouth-\nful to run as much as possible over the affected\nparts, by holding the head backward, and\nbreathing through it, by which means the liquid\nis agitated and its action promoted. They\nshould not be swallowod.\n1. For a very mild one use salt and water;\nfor a more effective one use about 1 drm.\nchlorate of potash in 2 oz. water, or to 1\noz. alum in 1 pt. water sweetened with honey.\nThe chlorate of potash gargle must be used\nwith care, as it is poisonous.\n2. Gargle for Sore Throat\nTinct. guaiciammon 3 drm.\nLiquor potassae 3 drm.\nTinct. opii 2 drm.\nAq. cinnamoni 8 oz.\nGas.— Hints to Gas Consumers. 1. Always\nkeep a plan of pipes and burners. It will fre-\nquently be useful.\n2. Keep bell wires away from gas pipes.\n3. Do not use a candle or open light in exam-\ning meters.\n4. In case of serious leak, close main cock,\nopen the windows, and locate the leak. Never\nsleep in any room where there is even a faint\nodor of gas.\n5. If a gas flame goes out suddenly, it may be\nowing to water in the pipes, a frozen meter, or\nair in the pipes. An unsatisfactory flame may\nbe owing to an obstruction of the burner or\npipes.\n6. To thaw out a frozen gas meter, use hot\nwater or hot sand bags.\n7. If gas lights bob up and down or flicker, it\nis a sign of water in the pipes. Remove the\nwater, if possible, or notify the gas company.\n8. A roaring or hissing sound indicates too\nmuch pressure use a governor burner or par-\ntially close the stop cock to meter.\n9. Never keep a gas flame turned down low in\na bedroom. The air will become vitiated, owing\nto imperfect combustion. Also the flame may\nbe extinguished by variations in pressure. See\nthat all gas keys have pinstops, and that the\nfittings are tight.\n10. In using rubber tube connections,7always\nturn off the gas from above when leaving, as\ngas will in time leak through the tube.\n11. To reduce the bills, have tight fittings, a\npressure regulator, and examine the meter fre-\nquently.— Abridged from Builder, Decorator\nand Woodworker.\nGas Fixtures, to Bronze. See Bronzing.\nGas, Detection of Leakage. Dr. Bunte s\nmethod for detecting gas leakage by means of\npalladium paper has oeen rendered still more\ndelicate by Herr Schaufflers, who uses, to every\nthree parts of chloride of palladium, one part of\nchloride of gold. The increase of sensitiveness\nmay be partly due to catalytic action, that is,.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0244.jp2"},"241":{"fulltext":"Oases.\n239\nGilding.\nto the mere presence of the gold, perhaps to\nthe action of traces of acetylene upon the\ngold solution. The solution used for making\nthe paper contains of chloride of pal-\nladium and Yq% of chloride of gold. One\npt. costs about 9s. and will steep filter paper\nenough for 8,000 to 11,000 tests. The main\nsources of error are tobacco smoke, stoves and\nsmoky chimneys, which let carbonic oxide into\nthe room, the vapor of fusel oil, onion smell,\nmercury vapor and sulphureted hydrogen.\nTo Prevent Gas_ Meters from Freezing— Add.\nglycerine to the water in the proportion of 3^ pt.\nto a gallon of water. Glycerine does not affect\nthe metals of which the meter is composed.\nTo Detect a Leak, in a Gas Pipe.— Rub a little\nsoap water upon the suspected place. The\nformation of a bubble will show where the\nGas Pipe, Strength of.— The thread on a\nInch gas pipe will sustain a weight of 5,000 lb.,\ny% inch, 7,000 lb. and inch 9,000 lb., so that\nchandeliers cannot readily be shaken from\ntheir supports.\nGases and Vapors, Refraction of.— (M.\nMascart).— The new results obtained by the\nauthor are\nRefraction with\nRelation to that\nof Air.\nChlorine^...... .....«»»n»kk» 2 63\nBromine 3*85\nHyprochloric acid 1 52\nHydrobromic acid 1*95\nHydriodic acid 3*10\nHydrocyanic acid 1*49\nSulphydric acid. 2*12\nAmmonia 1*29\nWater 0*88\nPhosphorus protochloride 5 92\nCarbon sulphide. 5*05\nGasoline.— About 166 ft. of gas can be made\nfrom a gallon of gasoline.\nGas Tar. This commonly called coal tar.\nGazogene. A portable apparatus for\naerating water and other liquids. Many forms\nhave been given to this instrument, but in all\nthe principle is the same. Powders for gener-\nating carbonic acid gas are placed in a separate\ncompartment and the liquid to be aerated in\nanother. The two compartments are connected\nby a suitable tube, and a second tube furnished\nwith a spring tap affords an exit for the aerated\nliquid. The following are the proportions of\nsoda and acid required for charging gazo-\ngenes\n1. For 2 pt., powdered tartaric acid, 280 gr.;\nbicarbonate of soda, 340 gr.\n2. For 3 pt., powdered tartaric acid, 340 gr.;\nbicai bate of soda, 420 gr.\n3. For 5 pt., tartaric acid, 620 gr.; carbonate\nof soda, 760 gr. Put the acid and soda in differ-\nent colored papers.\nGearing, Simple Rules on.— The fol-\nlowing rules will apply to both bevel and spur\ngears. When the term pitch is used, it always\nsignifies diametrical, not circular pitch. For\nillustrations we will use gears having 64 teeth\nand 8 pitch.\nTo Find Pitch Diameter.— Divide the number\nof teeth by the pitch 64 ~s- 8 8 in. pitch diam-\neter.\nTo Find Number of Teeth.— Multiply the pitch\ndiameter by the pitch 8 in. x 8 64, number\nof teeth\nTo Find the Pitch— Divide the number of teeth\nby the pitch diameter 64 8 in. 8, pitch.\nTo Find Outside Diameter of Spur Wheels.—\nAdd 2 to the number of teeth and divide by\nthe pitch 64 2 66 8 W\\ in. O. D.\nTo Find Circular Pitch.— Divide the decimal\n31416 by the diametrical pitch 3*1416 8\n0.3927 in.\nTo Find the Distance hctween the Centers of\nTwo Spur Gears.— Divide half the sum of the\nteeth of both gears by the pitch 64 64 128\n-f-2 64-r-8 8in centers.\nA simple rule to determine the face of bevel\ngears is to make them seven times the pitch 8\npitch bevel will thus be in. face.\nGelatin or Gelatine. Animal jelly, ob-\ntained by the prolonged action of boiling\nwater on the organic tissue of the bones, ten-\ndons and ligaments, the cellular tissue, the\nskin and the serous membranes. Glue and size\nare coarse varieties of gelatin, prepared from\nhoofs, hides, skins, etc., and isinglass is a purer\nkind, obtained from the air bladders or some\nother membranes of fish.\nGelatine, Bichromated.— Make a hot saturated\nsolution of bichromate of potash in water, and\nin another vessel make a strong solution of\ngelatin. Then pour them together, stir well\nand allow to cool. The proportion of bichrome\nsolution which is added varies according to the\nuse. On exposure to the light it becomes insol-\nuble, which is useful in many ways.\nGelatine Manufactured from Seaweed. The\nseaweed, called by the native name of tengusa,\nis carefully washed and afterward boiled, so as\nto form a gluish decoction, which is strained\noff and put into square boxes. When cool it\nforms a stiff jelly, which can easily be divided\ninto squares a foot in length. The manner in\nwhich the surplus water is removed is very in-\ngenious. The jelly prisms are exposed in the\nopen air during a cold night and allowed to\nfreeze. During the day the sun melts the\nwater, which runs off, leaving behind what one\nmight term the skeleton of white, horny sub-\nstance, which is extremely light and easily dis-\nsolved in hot water; when cooled, it again\nforms a stiff jelly. This article can be applied\nto many purposes— for culinary uses, for mak-\ning bonbons and jellies, for clarifying liquids,\nas a substitute for animal isinglass, for making\nmoulds used by the plaster of Paris workers,\nfor hardening the same material, in short, as a\nsubstitute for all kinds of gelatines, over which\nit has the advantage of producing a firmer\nJeUy.\nGelatine Sheets.— Dissolve fine glue or isinglass\nin water so that the solution when cold may be\nconsistent. Pour it hot on a plate of glass\n(previously warmed with steam and slightly\ngreased) fitted in a metallic frame whose edges\nare just as high as the wafer should be thick.\nLay on the surface a second glass plate, also\nhot and greased, so as to touch every point of\nthe gelatine while resting on the edges of the\nframe. By its pressure the thin cake is ren-\ndered uniform. When the glass plates have\ncooled, the gelatine will be solid and may be\nremoved. It can then be cut into disks by\npunches, etc. It can of course be colored by\nadding suitable coloring material, aniline colors\nfor instance.\nGems, Imitation. See Jewels.\nGeranium Water. See Waters.\nGerbe. See Pyrotecliny,\nGerman Silver. See Alloys.\nGerman Silver, to Polish. See Pol-\nisliing.\nGerman Silver, Solder for. See Sold-\nering.\nGersnein s Alloy. See Alloys.\nGesso.— A formula for a drying powder for\noil and distemper painting, and to make the\ncolors retain their brilliance, is this\nPure silica 4drm.\nCalcined borax 12 drm.\nLitharge 24 drm.\nMix and fuse into a crystal, which must be\npowdered and levigated with water.\nGilding.— Gilding by Immersion in a Solu-\ntion of Chloride of Gold. Articles of steel, cop-\nper, silver, and some other of the baser metals,^\nmay be gilded by simply immersing them in a","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0245.jp2"},"242":{"fulltext":"Gilding.\n230\nGilding.\nweak solution of the chloride of gold; this is,\nhowever, more interesting as a fact than of\nany practical value.\nSolution for Gilding Brass and Copper.— The\nfollowing formula has been adopted for water\ngilding, as it is termed. Fine gold, 6*4 dwts.\nConvert the gold into chloride and dissolve in\n1 qt. of distilled water, then add 1 lb. bicarbon-\nate of potassium and boil the mixture for two\nhours. Immerse the articles to be gilded in\nthe warm solution for a few seconds, up to one\nminute, according to the activity of the bath.\n2. Another method of gilding brass and cop-\n§er articles, by simple immersion, is to first\nip them in a solution of proto-nitrate of mer-\ncury (made by dissolving quicksilver in nitric\nacid and diluting with water) and then dipping\nthem into the gilding liquid. It is said that\ncopper may be gilded so perfectly by this\nmethod as to resist for some time the corrosive\naction of strong acids. During the action\nwhich takes place, the film of mercury, which\nis electro-positive to the gold, dissolves in the\nauriferous solution, and a film of gold is de-\nposited in its place.\nProcess of Gilding. Place in a plate leaf\ngold, add a little honey; stir the two substances\ncarefully together with a glass stopper, the\nlower end of which is very flat. Throw the\nresulting paste into a glass of water mixed with\na little alcohol; wash it and leave it to settle.\nDecant the liquid and wash the deposit again.\nRepeat the same operation until the result is a\nfine, pure, and brilliant powder of gold. This\npowder, mixed with common salt and pow-\ndered cream of tartar, and stirred up in water,\nserves for gilding.\nAs another method of gilding, Boutet Mou-\nvel gives the following Dissolve in aqua regia\n1 grn. of fine gold, previously rolled out very\nthin, in a porcelain capsule heated on the sand\nbath and concentrated till it is the color of ox\nblood. Add 1 pt. of distilled water, hot, in\nwhich have been dissolved 4 grn. of white cy-\nanide of potassium. Stir with a glass rod, and\nfilter the liquid through unsized paper. To\ngild with this liquid, it is heated a little above\nlukewarmness, and the articles to be gilt are\nimmersed in it and supported upon a piece of\nvery clean zinc.\nGilding Solution, BecquereVs. Chloride of\ngold, 1 part; ferrocyanide of potassium, 10\nparts water, 100 parts. Dissolve the salts in\nthe water, then filter. Add 100 parts of a sat-\nurated solution of ferrocyanide of potassium,\nand dilute the mixture with once or twice its\nvolume of water. In general the tone of the\ngilding varies, according as the solution is\nmore or less diluted. The color is most beauti-\nful when the liquid is most dilute and most\nfree from iron (from the ferrocyanide). To\nmake the surface appear bright, it is sufficient\nto wash the article in water acidulated with\nsulphuric acid, rubbing gently with a piece of\ncloth.\nSolution for Gilding Bronze, etc.— Small ar-\nticles may be gilded by immersing them in tbe\nfollowing solution, which must be used at\nnearly boiling heat. Caustic potash, 180 parts;\ncarbonate of potash, 20 parts; cyanide of potas-\nsium, 9 parts; water, 1,000 parts. Rather more\nthan l^j parts chloride of gold is to be dissolved\nin the water, when the other substances are to\nbe added and the whole boiled together. The\nsolution must be strengthened from time to\ntime by the addition of chloride of gold, and\nalso after being worked four or five times, by\nthe addition of the other salts in the propor-\ntions given. This bath is recommended chiefly\nfor gilding economically small articles of cheap\njewelry, and for giving a preliminary coating\nof gold to large articles, which are to receive a\nstronger coating.\nBrass and Copper, Solution for Gilding.— Fine\ngold, 6J4 dwts. Convert the gold into chloride\nand dissolve it in 1 qt. water and add potassium\nbicarbonate, 1 lb., and boil for two hours. Im-\nmerse the articles for one minute.\nColoring Processes.— When gilding is of an in-\nferior color, it is sometimes necessary to use\nsome process to improve the color. There\nmust always be a sufficient coating of gold upon\nthe article to withstand the action of the mate-\nrials employed. This condition being fulfilled,\nthe artificial coloring processes may be applied\nwith advantage, and gold surfaces of great\nbeauty obtained.— Sulphate of copper, 2 dwt.;\nFrench verdigris, 4 dwt. 12 grn.; sal ammoniac, 4\ndwt.; niter, 4 dwt.; acetic acid, about 1 oz. The\nsulphate of copper, sal ammoniac and niter\nare first pulverized in a mortar, then the ver-\ndigris is added and well mixed with the other\ningredients. The acetic acid is then poured in,\na little at a time, and the whole worked up to-\ngether, when a thin mass of a bluish green color\nwill result. The article to be colored is to be\ndipped in the mixture, and then placed on a\nclean piece of sheet copper, which is next to be\nheated over a clear fire, until the compound\nassumes a dull black color; it is now allowed to\ncool, and is then plunged into a tolerably strong\nsulphuric acid pickle, which soon dissolves the\ncoloring salts, leaving the article a fine gold\ncolor. Rinse well in hot water to which a small\nquantity of carbonate of potash should be\nadded next brush with warm soap and water,,\nthen rinse in hot water.\nColoring Gilt Work.— In working gold solu-\ntions employed in the dipping process, it may\nsometimes occur that the color of the deposit\nis faulty and patchy instead of being of the\ndesired rich gold color. To overcome this,\ncertain coloring salts are employed, the com-\nposition of which is as follows: Nitrate of\npotash, sulphate of zinc, sulphate of iron,,\nalum, of each equal parts. These substances are\nplaced in an earthenware vessel, and melted at\nabout the temperature of boiling water. When\nfused the mixture is ready for use. The arti-\ncles are to be brushed over with the composi-\ntion and then placed in a charcoal furnace,\nand heated until, by applying the moistened tip\nof the finger to one of the pieces, a slight hiss-\ning sound is heard. This indicates that the heat\nhas been sufficient. Then the articles should be\nat once removed and thrown quickly into a.\nvery weak sulphuric acid pickle, which dis-\nsolves the salts and leaves the work -clear and\nbright. This coloring process has a rather\nsevere action upon gilt work, and should not\nbe used when the gilding is a mere film.\nBooks, the Edges of, to Gild.— To gild the edges,,\nthe book should be put into the press straight\nand on a level with the cheeks of the press be-\ntween cutting boards, the boards of the book\nbeing thrown back. The press should be screwed\nup very tightly, and any projection of the cut-\nting boards should be taken away with a chisel.\nIf the paper is unsized or at all spongy, the\nedge should be sized and left to dry. This may\nbe ascertained by wetting a leaf with the\ntongue if spongy, the moisture will sink\nthrough as in blotting paper. The edge should\nbe scraped quite flat and perfectly even, care\nbeing taken to scrape every part equally, or one\npart of the edge will be hollow or perhaps one\nside scraped down, and this will make one\nsquare larger than the other. When scraped\nquite smooth and evenly, a mixture of.black\nlead and thin glair water is painted over the\nedge, and with a hard brush it is well brushed\nuntil dry.\nThe gold is now cut on the gold cushion.\nLift a leaf out of the book with the gold knife,\nlay it on the gold cushion, breathe gently on\nthe center of the leaf to lay it flat; it can then\nbe cut with ease to any size. The edge is now\nglaired evenly, and the gold is taken up with a\npiece of paper previously greased by drawing\nit over the head. The gold is then gently laid\non the edge which has been glaired. The whole\nedge or end being done, it is allowed to get per-\nfectly dry, which will occupy two hours.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0246.jp2"},"243":{"fulltext":"Gilding.\n231\nGilding.\nBefore using the burnisher on the gold itself,\nsome gilders lay a piece of fine paper on the gold,\nand gently flatten it with the burnisher. Books\nare often treated in this manner: they then\nbecome dull gilt. When intended to be bright,\na waxed cloth should be gently rubbed over the\nsurface two or three times before using the\nburnisher. The beauty of burnishing depends\nupon the edge presenting a solid and uniform\nmetallic surface, without any marks of the\nburnisher.\nGilding Books.— White of egg well beaten up\nis the ordinary sticking material used by binders\nto put the gold leaf on. The leather back of\nthe book is varnished with it, and when dry,\na strip of gold leaf is put on the place where the\nletters or ornaments are to be placed the let-\nters used are common printing types (they must\nbe new, however, and not been used with print-\ning ink). They are heated a little above the\nboiling point of water, which is easily tried\nwith a wet finger, and then they are pressed on\nthe gold leaf for a lew seconds only, when the\nheating of the albumen or white of egg under\nit fixes them to the leather of the book. The\nornamental figures used are commonly made of\nbrass and manufactured for the use of book\nbinders, while the type is screwed in an appro-\npriate brass or iron holder, with wooden handle.\nThe back of a well-bound book being always\nround, the proper way of putting on the gilded\nletters and ornaments requires a certain way\nof manipulation, which it is best to acquire by\nvisiting some good book binder s shop in the\nnext large city to see the operation and use your\neyes properly so as to get all little details. The\nsides of books being flat, it is best to put the\nletters and ornaments under a press. The type\nis put up in a proper form, it is heated, put\nunder the press with the varnished side of the\nbook, covered with gold leaf on the right place,\nand the press screwed down. Sometimes the\nbinder puts the strip of gold leaf on the face of\nthe type, in place of en the book. This is equally\ngood, and under certain circumstances prefer-\nable.\nWatch Plates, to Gild.— After plating with\ngold, using the regular solution (cyanide), im-\nmerse in a mixture of\nCopper sulphate 3 parts by weight.\nVerdigris 7 parts by weight.\nAmmonium chloride. 6 parts by weight.\nBotash nitrate 6 parts by weight.\nAcetic acid 31 parts by weight.\nUse solids in powder. After dipping, heat the\narticles on a plate of copper until they turn\ndark or black, and then treat with concentrated\nsulphuric acid.\n2. Or instead of above mixture use\nAlum 3 parts by weight.\nBotash nitrate tf parts by weight.\nZinc sulphate 3 parts by weight.\nSodium chloride. .3 parts by weight.\nUse as a paste; coat articles with it, heat on\niron plate until they turn black, and wash with\ncold water.\nCalf and Sheepskin, Gilding on.— Wet the\nleather with the white of eggs; when dry, rub\nit with your hand and a little olive oil, then put\nthe gold leaf on and apply the hot iron to it.\nWhatever the hot iron shall not have touched\nwill go off by brushing.\nCards, to Gild the Edges of 1. Obtain an ex-\ntremely thin leaf of gold. But your cards to-\ngether so that the edges are perfectly even.\nThen place in a press, with the exposed edge\nuppermost. Coat the edge with a mixture of\nred chalk and water. The gold is blown out\nfrom small books, and spread on a leather-\ncushion, where it is cut to the proper size by a\nsmooth-edged knife. A camel s hair pencil is\ndipped into white of egg mixed with water, and\nwith this the partially dry edge is moistened\nttfe gold is then taken upon a tip brush and ap-\nplied to the moistened edge, to which it instantly\nadheres. When all the four edges have been\ngilt in this way, and allowed to remain a very\nfew minutes, take a burnisher formed of a very\nsmooth piece of hard stone (usually bloodstone),\nand rub the gold very forcibly, which gives the\ngold a high degree of polish. To silver edges\ntake a brush, dip it in a saturated solution of\ngallic acid, and wash the edges; then dip the\nbrush into a solution composed of 20 parts\nnitrate of silver to 1,000 parts distilled water.\nKeep on alternating these solutions until the\nedges assume a brilliant tint. Then wash with\ndistilled water, and dry by free air and heat.\n2. A composition consisting of 4 parts of Ar-\nmenian bole and 1 of candied sugar, ground\ntogether with water to a proper consistence\nand laid on by a brush with the white of an\negg. This coating, when nearly dry, is smoothed\nby the burnisher. It is then slightly moistened\nby a sponge dipped in clean water and squeezed\nin the hand, after which gold leaf is applied.\nChina, Common, Gilding on.— The gilding is\ndone either by an adhesive varnish or by heat.\nThe varnish is prepared by dissolving in hot\nboiled linseed oil an equal weight of either am-\nber or copal. This is diluted with a proper quan-\ntity of oil of turpentine so as to be applied as\nthin as possible to the parts to be gilt. Let stand\nafter varnishing about twenty-four hours, then\nheat in an oven until so warm as almost to burn\nthe fingers when handled. The heat softens the\nvarnish, which is then ready to receive the gold\nleaf, which may be applied with a brush or\npledget of cotton, and the superfluous por-\ntions brushed off. Burnish when cold, inter-\nposing a piece of thin paper between the gold\nand burnisher. Where burning in is prac-\nticed the gold reduced to powder is mixed with\npowdered borax glass (anhydrous borax), moist-\nened with a little gum water, and applied to\nthe clean surface with a camel hair pencil.\nWhen quite dry the article is put into a stove\nheated to about the temperature of a n anneal-\ning oven. The gum burns off and the borax, by\nvitrifying, cements the gold with great firmness\nto the surface.\nGold Luster for China Painting.— Dissolve 1\ndrm. gold in oz. aqua regia, or simply dis-\nsolve this weight of chloride of gold in water.\nAdd 6 grn. of metallic tin, and enough aqua\nregia if required to dissolve it. Bour with con-\nstant stirring into a mixture of drm. balsam\nof sulphur and 20 grn. oil of turpentine. As\nit stiffens add drm. oil of turpentine and\nmix. More gold gives a brighter effect; tin\ninclines it to a violet tinge. Balsam of sulphur\nis made by boiling together in a covered vessql\n1 part flowers of sulphur and 4 parts oil until\nthe mass thickens.\nCotton, to Gild.— The cotton should be spread\nwith glue, dried, then coated with a thick solu-\ntion of parchment size and dried again thor-\noughly. Then apply the gilding.\nTo Dissolve Gold for Gilding ivhich has to be\nFired.— Triturate in a mortar some gold leaf\nand honey until reduced very fine. Then dis-\nsolve the honey with hot water and mix with a\nlittle gum water for use, or dissolve gold in hot\naqua regia, evaporate to dryness in a porcelain\ndish and dissolve in ether for use.\nGilding Glass.— 1. Thoroughly clean the glass,\nthen take some very weak isinglass size, and\nwhile warm float the glass where you intend\nthe gold to be laid, with the size and a soft\nbrush then lay the gold on with a gilder s tip,\npreviously drawing it over the hair of your\nhead to cause the gold to adhere to it. Tilt the\nglass aside to allow the superfluous size to run\naway, then let it dry, and if it does not look\nsufficiently solid upon the face, give another\nlayer of gold the same way. Where the black\nlines are to show, take a piece of pointed fire-\nwood, cut to the width the lines are needed,\nand with a straight-edge draw a line with the\npiece of wood, which, if made true and smooth,\nwill take the gold oft clean, and so square and\nsharpen up all the edges, lines, etc. When tins","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0247.jp2"},"244":{"fulltext":"Gilding.\nGilding.\nis done, give a coat of Brunswick black thinned\nwith a little turps, and the lines will show\nblack, and it will preserve the gold. Try a\nsmall piece first, so as to get all in order.\n2. The proper flux is anhydrous borax the\nreal gilding is effected by tbe aid of heat. For\nthis purpose a solution of gold in aqua regia\n(chloride of gold) is precipitated by potash or\ngreen vitriol— a finely divided powder (brown)\nconsisting of metallic gold. This is washed,\ndried and rubbed up with the flux (anhydrous\nborax). Mix the same with oil of turpentine or\ngum water apply with a brush. When heated\nin the muffle, the volatile oil escapes the gum\nconsumed, the borax melts and firmly attaches\nthe gold to the surface of the vessel.\n3. Two grn. of isinglass; new rum, 2 parts;\nwater, 3 parts. Put the water and the isinglass\ninto a clean pan, and let them simmer over the\nfire for about an hour add the rum when\ntaken off the fire, then let it cool. Clean the\nglass, pour on the liquid, gild with camel s hair\ntip, set the glass upon its edge the liquid will\nrun from beneath the gold, and in less than\ntwenty minutes you wiU have a burnished\nplate. When dry, rub lightly with fine cotton;\nif there are any spots not gilded, gild them.\nDraw your design on paper, perforate your\nlines with a needle, put your paper next the\ngilded side, with the reading the wrong way,\ndust through the holes with a rag and whiting,\nlift off the paper and you will find your design\nmarked off. If you wish the letters left clear\nblack, cut round the letters with yellow, paint\nall over but the letters, wash off the gold with\nwater, then paint all over black. If you want\nthe letters gold, paint the letters yellow, and\nwash off the surplus gold, then paint all over\nblack.\n4. Prof. Schwarzenbach, of Berne, has re-\ncently devised the following method of gilding\non glass Pure chloride of gold is dissolved in\nwater. The solution is filtered and diluted\nuntil in 20 qt. water but 15 grn. gold are con-\ntained. It is then rendered alkaline by the ad-\ndition of soda. In order to reduce the gold\nchloride, alcohol, saturated with marsh gas and\ndiluted with its own volume of water, is used.\nThe reaction which ensues results in the depo-\nsition of metallic gold and the neutralization\nof the hydrochloric acid by the soda. In prac-\ntice, to gild a plate of glass, the object is first\ncleaned and placed above a second plate slightly\nlarger, a space of about in. separating the\ntwo. Into this space the alkaline solution is\npoured, the reducing agent being added im-\nmediately before use. After two or three\nhours repose, the gilding is solidly fixed, when\nthe plate may be removed and washed.\nEmbossing and Gilding on Glass.— There are\ntwo ways of embossing glass: by means of\nhydrofluoric acid and by the sandblast. The\nsecond method being rather beyond the power\nof amateurs, I shall not describe it here. In\nthe hydrofluoric acid process, the glass is first\ncoated with some protecting substance, and\nupon this the design is drawn with a sharp\ninstrument, so as to expose the glass below.\nThe acid is then applied, when the exposed\nportion of the glass becomes corroded. The\nwax can be afterward removed. In practice\nthe glass should be warmed and coated with\nmolten beeswax (not paraffin, which is too\nbrittle). Superfluous wax should drained off,\nso as to leave as thin a coating as possible. Or\na composition may be used, formed by melting\ntogether 2 parts of beeswax, 2 of asphalt, 1 of\nblack pitch and 1 of Burgundy pitch, and heat-\ning them together until a drop placed upon a\ncool surface gets hard and tough. Whatever\nthe protecting substance used, it should be per-\nmitted to set, and the design should then be\ntraced with some pointed instrument, care be-\ning taken to cut right down to the glass. If\nthe design is complicated, it will be found bet-\nter to trace it first on paper, and then to go\nover the lines with a pricker. The paper can\nthen be placed upon the wax and some dark\ncolored powder dusted over the holes. On re-\nmoving the paper, the outline of the design\nwill be found marked on the surface of the\nwax. [t will then be easy to cut away the wax\nat the desired places. A shallow tray of gutta-\npercha or of sheet lead must then be taken,\nand into it be placed about half an inch of the\ndilute hydrofluoric acid of commerce. The\nglass must then be placed wax side down over\nthe tray and left exposed to the vapor of the\nacid for some time. On removing it, washing\nwith water, and cleaning off the wax, the de-\nsign will be found etched in opaque lines upon\na bright ground. If required bright upon an\nopaque ground, the waxed glass, instead of\nbeing exposed to the vapor of the acid, should\nbe dipped into the acid itself. After the re-\nmoval of the wax the surface of the glass\nshould be ground with very fine emery. An-\nother way is to draw the design on the glass\nwith a pencil and Brunswick black, using as a\nguide a sketch on paper placed beneath the\nglass. On exposure to the acid vapor the whole\nbackground will be rendered opaque. The\nBrunswick black can be cleaned off with tur-\npentine, leaving the design in clear glass. In-\nstead of Brunswick black, an ink may be used,\nmade by dissolving asphalt in turpentine, and\nthickening with beeswax and resin. Where it\nis desired to produce an artistic effect by the\nintroduction of shading, recourse may be had\nto Gruene s patent process, wherein the wax\nor Brunswick black is replaced by substances\nnot altogether impervious to the action of the\nacid. The design is drawn with oil varnishes,\ngreasy printing inks, or some such substances\n(using a good protector for the high lights, a\nbad protector for the deep shades, and so on),\nand is then dusted over with finely powdered\nmetal, copal, etc. When dry, the glass is dipped\ninto hydrofluoric acid and allowed to remain\nin for a few seconds and is afterward washed.\nIf care is taken in the selection of the protect-\ning materials, it is possible! or an artistic work-\nman to obtain very striking results.\nGilding may be done either with bronze\npowder or with gold leaf. If the powder is to\nbe used, the design should be traced on the\nwrong side of the glass with japan gold size\nthinly laid on, which is afterward dusted over\nwith bronze powder. When dry, a coat of\nvarnish is laid on. In tracing the design, it\nmust not be forgotten that the wrong side of\nthe glass is being worked at, and that when\nviewed from the front everything will appear\ntwisted round— the right being to the left and\nthe left to the right. To gild with leaf, the\nglass must be carefully cleaned and laid upon\nthe design. Then a solution of isinglass is put\non by aid of aflat camel hair brush. While\nstill wet, gold leaf is laid on with a gilder s tip\n(for the sake of economy adhering to the design\nas nearly as possible). When quite dry, the de-\nsign, the outline of which has been pricked out\nas before described, is taken and placed upon\nthe gold. Dark colored powder is then sprinkled\non as before. The paper is next removed and\nthe outline carefully gone over with Bruns-\nwick black. The superfluous gold is cleaued\noff by the aid of a sharp narrow chisel. The\nsize is made by dissolving *4 oz. of isinglass in\na sufficiency of water, adding *4 pt. rectified\nspirits, and making up to half a pint with water.\nNote.— If hydrofluoric acid is dropped upon\nthe fingers it is desirable to wash it off without\nunnecessary delay; but let no one be deterred\nfrom using the acid by the dreadful things the\ntextbooks cay of it* They don t apply to the\ndiluted acid sold at the shops.— Alfred W.\nSoward.\n5. Dissolve a piece of isinglass (gelatine) the\nsize of a silver dollar in pt. of hot water, and\nafter cooling apply this size, with a 2 or 3 in. flat\ncamel s hair brush, to the glass, previously freed\nfrom all traces of grease by washing with al-\ncohol; apply the gold leaf cut to the size of let-","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0248.jp2"},"245":{"fulltext":"Gildinj\n233\nGilding.\nters desired with a gilder s brush, rubbing- the\nbrush on the hair while the size is wet. In pre-\nsenting- the gold leaf to the sized surface do not\ntouch the glass with brush or gold; bring the\nleaf within Yz in. of the surface, when it will be\nfound that the leaf leaves the brush and at-\ntaches itself to the sized surface (owing to the\nelectrical condition of the brush). Spread the\nleaf evenly, give it a second coating of the size,\noutline with asphaltum varnish and fill up the\nletters with the same. When all is dry rub off\nthe superfluous gold with cotton wool.\nGranite, Gilding on.— Apply a coat of size and\nthen two or three coats of size and fine pow-\ndered whiting. Let each coat dry and rub down\nwith fine glass paper before the next is applied.\nThen go over it thinly and evenly with gold size\nand apply the gold leaf.\nIron,to Gild.— Kircnmann says: Rub the sur-\nface of the iron with sodium amalgam, then\napply a strong solution of chloride of gold; on\nheating, mercury will be driven off and the\niron will be gilded.\nIvory, to Gild.— Put the ivory into a solution\nof sulphate of iron (copperas), and then into a\nsolution of nitro-muriate of gold; on withdraw-\ning it from the latter it will be beautifully\ngilded.\nGilding Metals with Gold Leaf.— Articles of\nsteel are heated until they acquire a bluish\ncolor, and iron or copper is heated to the same\ndegree. The first coating of gold leaf is now\napplied, which must be gently pressed down\nwith a burnisher and again exposed to gentle\nheat; the second leaf is then applied in the\nsame way, followed by a third, and so on; or\ntwo leaves may be applied instead of one, but\nthe last leaf should be burnished down while\nthe article is cold.\nGilding, Wax for. J$ee Waxing.\nGold Beaters Skin.— Is prepared from the\nperitoneal membrane of the caecum of the ox.\nIt is used to separate the leaves of gold while\nunder the hammer, as a nearly invisible dress-\ning for cuts, as tissue for court plaster, etc.\nGold, Powdered.— Divided gold, gilding pow-\nder, gold bronze, gold color, Auri pulvis. Gold\n1 part, mercury 7 parts; form an amalgam\nand expose it to heat until all the mercury is\nvolatilized; or the mercury may be dissolved\nout with hot nitric acid. In either case the\nresiduum is to be powdered, washed and dried.\nIf the quantity operated on is considerable, the\nprocess should be so conducted as to save the\nmercury.\nColoring of Gold.— This operation consists of\nimparting a color to gold articles after every\nother process has been completed. Its object\nis to give to alloyed gold all the appearance of\nfine gold itself, by dissolving out the base\nmetal from the surface of the articles and leav-\ning a facing of gold of a deep rich color. Two\ndistinct modes of coloring are adopted by jew-\nelers, termed respectively dry coloring and\nwet coloring. The latter is most frequently\npracticed, as the former cannot well be ap-\nplied to gold inferior to 18 carat.\nWet Coloring.— The ingredients of the mix-\nture employed in this process have a powerful-\nly solvent action on the base metal with which\nthe gold is alloyed, and a weaker action on the\ngold itself, so that the article loses weight in\ndirect ratio to the length of time it is submitted\nto the coloring process, and this loss is greater\nas the gold is lower in quality. Gee states that\nthe coloring is hastened and the loss in weight\nreduced to a minimum by using old coloring\nliquid, and he assumes that the dissolved gold\nis, to some extent, deposited again on the arti-\ncle, because the loss in weight of some common\nqualities of gold was found to be very little,\nand the amount of gold recovered from the\nspent coloring liquid very small indeed. This\nstatement is in accord with the well known\nfact that in any liquid in which a metal, say\ncopper, is electro-positive to the metal in solu-\ntion, say gold, the latter is deposited on the\nformer.\nMany different mixtures are used for color-\ning gold, some of which will be afterward\ngiven in tabular form. The following has been\nsupplied by an experienced Birmingham jew-\neler, which he has found to be effective:\nPotassium nitrate 12 oz.\nCommon salt 6 oz.\nHydrochloric acid 3 oz.\nThe nitrate and salt are pounded to a fine\npowder and placed in a previously warmed\nplumbago crucible about 8 in. by 7 in., then\nstirred with a wooden spoon for a minute or\ntwo. The acid is then added with about 1 oz.\nof boiiing water, and the mass constantly stir-\nred until it boils up to the top of the pot. The\nwork, which has been previously cleansed in hot\npotash or soda solution, is then suspended in\nthe coloring liquid by means of a silver or\nplatinum wire for about one minute, then well\nswilled in boiling water. A little more water is\nadded to the color pot, and when the liquid\nboils up the work is again immersed for an-\nother minute, and swilled in boiling water as\nbefore. This operation of dipping and swilling\nis repeated several times, the coloring liquid\nbeing weakened by adding water before each\nimmersion, until the desired appearance is at-\ntained. The work is finally well washed in hot\nwater and dried in boxwood sawdust. The\nwhole process takes five to seven minutes.\nThe colored work is next scratch-brushed,\non a lathe, with a revolving brush made of very\nfine brass wire and having stale beer dropping\non it. If the coloring has been properly con-\nducted, a beautiful rich and dead color will be\nproduced.\nDry Coloring.— This term is applied to the\ncoloring process when no liquids are used as\nconstituents of the mixture. The ingredients\nused are\nPotassium nitrate 8 oz.\nCommon salt 4 oz.\nAlum 3 oz.\nThese substances are ground to a fine powder,\nwell mixed and placed in a previously heated\nblacklead color pot, of the same dimensions as\nthat described for use in wet coloring, but the\nsame pot must not be employed for dry color-\ning as has been used for the wet process. It is\nwell to get the pot nearly red hot before plac-\ning the color in it. The mixture must then be\nconstantly stirred with an iron rod. It will\nfirst boil up as a greenish liquid, then solidify,\nand afterward boil up a second time and be-\ncome thoroughly fused, having a brownish\nyellow color. At this stage the work, which\nhas been previously annealed and dipped in di-\nlute aquafortis, is dipped in the color, being\nsuspended on a silver or platinum wire, the\nlatter being preferred, and kept in motion for\nabout a minute and a half, then immersed in\nboiling water containing a little aquafortis.\nThe immersion and swilling are again repeated,\nwhen the articles possess a beautiful color.\nThey are then washed in hot water containing\na little potash, and finally dried in warm box-\nwood sawdust.\nIn dry coloring the work should be as highly\npolished as possible previous to the coloring,\nfor the brighter it is the better will be the final\ncolor. The time given above is only intended\nas a general guide, as some work will color\nmuch quicker than others, and the time can\nonly be arrived at by experience. The follow-\ning mixtures have been recommended for col-\noring\nDry Process.\n1. Potassium nitrate 8 oz.\nCommon salt 4 oz.\nAlum 4 oz.\n2. Sal ammoniac 4 oz.\nPotassium nitrate 4 oz.\nBorax 4 oz.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0249.jp2"},"246":{"fulltext":"Gilding.\n234\nGilding.\nWet Process.\nPotassium nitrate 8 14 15 14\nCommon salt 4 7 7 7\nAlum 4 7 7\nHydrochloric acid 2 1 5\nWater iu each case\nThe following 1 is a useful mixture for remov-\ning- tarnish from colored gold articles which\nnave been kept in stock for some time\nBicarbonate of soda 2 oz.\nChloride of lime 1 oz.\nCommon salt 1 oz.\nWater 16 oz.\nWell mix the above ingredients and apply\nwith a soft brush.\nGold, Etruscan, Color on.— Alum and fine\ntable salt each 1 oz.; powdered saltpeter, 2\noz.; hot rain water sufficient to make solution.\nAdd sufficient muriatic acid to produce the\ncolor desired. The solution is best used warm.\nAfter coloring wash in soft water, then in al-\ncohol, and dry in clean sawdust.\nGold Leaf. About 160,000 leaves are re-\nquired to make an inch in height.\nGold, to Plate With. See Electro-Metal-\nlurgy.\nMelting Points of Gold.— The following shows\nIhe degree of heat at which gold of varying de-\ngrees of fineness melts 23 carat gold, 2,012° F.;\n22 carat, 2,009° 20 carat, 2,002° 18 carat, 1,995°\n15 carat, 1,992° 13 carat, 1,990° 12 carat, 1,987°\n10 carat, 1,982° 9 carat, 1,979° 8 carat, 1,973°\n1 carat, 1,960° composition, 1,587°.\nFine gold will melt at 2,016° F.; pure copper\nat 1,994° fine silver at 1,873°, and pure spelter\nat 773°.\nGold Leaf, to Burnish. The burnishers\nused by the frame gilder are either of flint or\nagate, generally the former. They are made of\nvarious sizes and shapes to suit the work.\nThese are passed lightly over the gilded and dry\nwork. Frame gilding requires much practical\ndry work until properly burnished. It is then\nusually given a thin coat of very weak clear\nexperience to do properly.\nA kind of varnish is put on silver leaf to\nmake it appear like gold, Dissolve, by diges-\ntion, fine pale shellac in alcohol, and color with\nturmeric and dragon s blood.\nLeather, Gilding or Silvering. 1. To orna-\nment the sides of an album, finely powder\nsome resin and dust it over the surface of the\nleather; then lay on the leaf and apply (hot)\nthe letters or impression you wish to trans-\nfer; lastly, dust off the loose metal with a\ncloth.\n2. The cover is first washed with clear gum\nwater. The parts to be gilded are then coated\ntwice with white of egg beaten into a froth\nand allowed to subside into a clear liquid. A\nlittle ammonia may be added. To gild spread a\nleaf of gold on the gilding cushion with a\nknife, and blow it flat, then cut it into strips\nabout one-fifth inch wide. Heat the tool until\nit is just hot enough to fizz under ihe wet\nfinger if it sputters it is too hot and will burn\nthe leather; touch its edge with a rag slightly\nmoistened with sweet oil, and with the same\nrag rub over the part of the book to be gilt.\nRoll the tool softly on the strips of gold, which\nwill adhere to it, and when enough is taken up\nroll it with a heavier pressure along the places\nto be gilt, and the gold will be transferred to\nthe leather, the excess being wiped away with\na soft rag.\nGilding, Liquor.— Alum and common salt, of\neach 1 oz.; purified niter, 2 oz.; water y± pt.;\nused to impart a rich color to gold surfaces,\nprincipally trinkets. Its application should not\nbe too long continued, as it dissolves a small\nportion of the gold. For common purposes it\nis best used diluted with water.\nMarble, to Gild Letters on.— Apply a coat-\ning of size first, then apply successively\nseveral coats of size thickened with whiting\nuntil a good face is produced. Let each coat\ndry, and rub it down with fine glass paper be-\nfore applying the next. Then go over the mar-\nble thinly and evenly with gold size. Apply\nthe gold leaf, and burnish with an agate. The\ngold leaf must be applied several times to give\na good effect.\nMercury Gilding.— Preparation of the Amal-\ngam. To prepare the amalgam of gold for the\npurpose of mercury gilding, weighed a quan-\ntity of fine or standard gold is first put in a\ncrucible and heated to dull redness. The requi-\nsite proportion of mercury, 8 parts to 1 part of\ngold, is now added, and the mixture is stirred\nwith a slightly crooked iron rod, the heat being-\nkept up until the gold is entirely dissolved by\nthe mercury. Pour the amalgam into a small\ndish about 3 parts filled with water and work\nabout with the fingers under the water to\nsqueeze out as much of the excess of mercury\nas possible. To facilitate this, the dish is\nslightly inclined to allow the superfluous mer-\ncury to flow from the mass, which soon ac-\nquires a pasty condition capable of receiving-\nthe impression of the fingers. Afterward\nsqueeze the amalgam in a chamois leather bag,\nby which a further quantity of mercury is\nliberated; the amalgam which remains after\nthis final treatment consists of about 33 parts of\nmercury and 57 parts of gold in 100 parts. The\nmercury which is pressed through the bag re-\ntains a good deal of gold, and is employed in\npreparing fresh batches of amalgam. It is\nimportant that the mercury employed should\nbe pure.\nThe Mercurial Solution.— To apply the amal-\ngam a solution of nitrate of mercury is em-\nployed, which is prepared by dissolving in a\nglass flask 100 parts of mercury in 110 parts of\nnitric acid, of sp. gr, 1*33, gentle heat being em-\nployed to assist the chemical action. The red\nfumes which are given off must be allowed to\nescape into the chimney, since they are highly\ndeleterious when inhaled. When the mercury\nis all dissolved the solution is to be diluted with\nabout 25 times its weight of distilled water and\nbottled for use.\nApplying the Amalgam.— The pasty amalgam\nis spread with the blade of a knife upon a hard,\nflat stone; the article, after being well cleaned\nand scratch-brushed, is treated in the following\nway: Take a small scratch brush, formed of\nstout brass wire, dip in the solution of nitrate\nof mercury, then draw over the amalgam; pass\nthe brush carefully over the surface to be\ngilded, repeatedly dipping the brush in the\nmercurial solution, and drawing it over the\namalgam, until the entire surface is uniformly\nand sufficiently coated. Then rinse the article\nwell and dry. The next operation is the evap-\noration of the mercury. For this pui-pose a\ncharcoal fire, resting upon a cast iron plate, has\nbeen generally adopted, a simple hood of sheet\niron being the only means of protection from\nthe injurious effects of the mercurial vapors.\nWhen the amalgamated article is rinsed and\ndried, it is exposed to the glowing charcoal,\nturned about and heated by degrees to the\nproper point; then it is withdrawn from the\nfire by means of long pincers or tongs. The\narticle is then taken in the left hand, which\nshould be protected with a leather glove,\nturned over the fire in every direction, and\nwhile the mercury is volatilizing the article\nshould be struck with a long-haired brush to\nequalize the amalgam coating and force it upon\nsuch parts as may appear to require it. When\nthe mercury has become entirely volatilized\nthe gilding has a dull, greenish yellow color. If\nany bare placesare apparent they are touched up\nwith amalgam and the article again submitted\nto the fire, care being taken to expel the mer-\ncury gradually. The article is then well scratch\nbrushed; when it is of a pale, greenish color*\nheat it again to expel any remaining mercury*\nwhen it acquires the orange yellow of fine gold.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0250.jp2"},"247":{"fulltext":"Gilding.\n235\nOildin:\nIf required to be bright it is burnished in the\nordinary way.\nGilding Metal.— The metal employed for gild-\ning is usually brass or a mixture of brass and\ncopper. The f ollowing alloys have been recom-\nmended\n1. Copper, 6 parts; brass, 1 part.\n2. Copper, 4 parts; Bristol brass, 1 part.\n3. Copper, 13 parts; old Bristol brass, 3 parts;\ntin, 14 parts.\nMixtures employed in gilding by fire or by the\nwet processes.\nRed Ormolu.— Potash alum, nitrate of pot-\nash, 30 parts of each; sulphate of zinc, 8 parts;\ncommon salt, 3 parts; red ocher, 28 parts; sul-\nphate of iron, 1 part. Add to it a small pro-\nportion of annatto, madder, cochineal or other\ncoloring matter, ground in water or in weak\nvinegar.\nYellow Ormolu.— Red ocher, 17 parts; potash\nalum, 50 parts; sulphate of zinc, 10 parts; com-\nmon salt, 3 parts; nitrate of potash, 20 parts.\nDead Luster for Jewelry.— Sulphate of iron,\nsulphate of zinc, potash alum, nitrate of pot-\nash, equal parts of each. All the salts are\nmelted in their water of crystallization.\nHard Dead Luster for Clocks.— Water, 5\nparts; nitrate of potash, 37 parts; potash alum,\n42 parts; common salt, 12 parts; pulverized\nglass and sulphate of lime, 4 parts. The whole\nis thoroughly ground and mixed.\nSoft Dead Luster for Smooth Surfaces and\nFigures.— Water, 5 parts; nitrate of potash, 46\nparts; potash alum, 46 parts; common salt, 3\nparts. The same treatment as the preceding\nmixture.\nGreen for Red Luster.— Bitartrate of potash,\n65 parts; common salt, 25 parts; acetate of cop-\nper, 10 parts. The whole is ground together.\nWax for Gilding.— Oil, 25 parts; yellow wax,\n25 parts; acetate of copper, 13 parts; red ocher,\n37 parts. The whole is melted and stirred until\ncold.\nGold Leaves, to Apply to Paper.— Glaire, which\nis pure albumen, is sometimes used. It is made\nby shaking up the white of an egg with a few\ndrops of ammonia and drawing off the clear\nliquid, which has subsided on standing. This is\npainted on the lines, and by slight heat, as of a\nhot iron, the leaf adheres. Gold size is used on\nthick paper, or thick gum arabic water may be\nused. The illuminators of to-day canuot get as\ngood results as did the old workers of the mid-\ndle ages. The old gilding is never equaled now.\nGilding, Oil.— This species of gilding may be\ndivided into several operations.\n1. The surface is prepared by a coating of\nwhite lead in drying oil.\n2. Another coat is given, made with calcined\nwhite lead or masiscot ground in linseed oil and\nturpentine three or four coats of this mixture\nare often given, observing to carefully smooth\noff each coat with pumice or shave grass before\nthe application of the following ones.\n3. The gold color, or paint, is next applied.\nIt is usually very adhesive gold size, or the\nbottom of the pot or dish in which painters\nwash their brushes. For this purpose it is thor-\noughly ground and strained.\n4. When the gold color becomes partially dry\nand sufficiently tenacious, the gold leaf is ap-\nplied and pressed on with a wad of cotton,\nwood or a soft brush.\nPreparation and Gilding of Picture Frames.—\nFor the following description of picture frame\ngilding we acknowledge our indebtedness to\nWorkshop Receipts, Series 1 Suppose that\nwe have a plain picture frame; it is made by\nthe joiner into a 12 feet length of moulding,\nand in that state it passes into the hands of the\ngilder. He hrst gives it a priming of hot size\nand whiting, called thin white. The whiting\nemployed by the gilder is not the same as that\nused for domestic purposes, but is finer and\nmore free from grit. The size employed is pre-\npared by the gilder from parchment cuttings or\nglove cuttings. The cuttings are well washed\nin water and then boiled in a certain quantity\nof clean water until the latter has a particular\ndegree of adhesiveness, which can only be de-\ntermined by experience; this is then poured off\ninto a clean, dry vessel and allowed to cool.\nWhen about to be used, the grease at the top\nand the sediment at the bottom are cut off\nwith a knife, the size is melted in an earthen\npipkin, and a small quantity of finely pow-\ndered whiting is mixed with it. When the thin\nwhite is dry all holes and irregularities in the\nmoulding are filled up with putty. This putty\nis not the same as that employed by the glazier,\nbut consists of whiting and size mixed to the\nconsistence of putty. When the puttying is\ndry, a coating of thick white is laid on with a\nbrush. This thick white differs from the thin\nwhite only in having a larger proportion of dry\nwhiting mixed with a given amount of size,\nthe consistence attained being rather thicker\nthan that of oil paint. When the first thick\nwhite is dry another is laid on in the same\nmanner, and, similarly, a third, a fourth and a\nfifth are laid on, all about equal in thickness,\nand each one being perfectly dry before the\nnext is applied. As in laying on this large\nbody of thick white, the fine squares, hollows\nand fillets would be liable to be stopped up and\nlose all their clearness and sharpness, opening\ntools, consisting of crooks, chisels and gouges,\nare drawn along the fine parts of the moulding,\nwhile the thick white is still wet, by which\nmeans the forms of the various mouldings are\nretained. This is still better effected by the\ndouble opening white, which consists of two\nthick whites, the one laid on almost imme-\ndiately after the other, by which a thick soft\ncoating covers the moulding. Hard stones,\nshaped to the forms of the mouldings, to-\ngether with the opening tools before described,\nare to be worked over every part of the mould-\ning, by which asperities are smoothed down,\ndepressions filled up and edges brought up\nnearly to their required sharpness. In this\nstate the whiting on the moulding is from one-\nsixteenth to one-twelfth of an inch in thick-\nness. It is now trimmed at the back and\nedges by cutting off the whiting which had\nflowed overt rom the f ront,which preparesitf or\nthe process of smoothing. This is done by means\nof pieces of pumice and other stones, shaped\nso as to fit the various parts of the mould-\ning. A sponge or soft brush is used to wet the\nmoulding, and the stone which is to be used,\nbeing likewise wetted, is rubbed or worked to\nand fro along the moulding until that part is\nperfectly smooth. Another stone, fitting a\ndifferent part, is then used in the same way,\nand so on, until every part of the length and\nbreadth of the moulding has been worked over\nby the stones. The moulding, if the smoothing\nhas been properly performed, now presents a\nsmoothness of surface exceeding and a keen-\nness of the edge nearly equaling that which\nthe moulding presented when it left the hands\nof the joiner; but this must be attained with-\nout rubbing off too much of the whiting, since\nthe whole beauty of the frame mainly depends\non having a sufficient body or foundation of\nwhiting. The brilliant burnishing on frames\nis, in a peculiar degree, dependent on the whit-\ning which is first laid on the wood, and which,\nif deficient in quantity, cannot be adequately re-\nplaced by other means. The moulding being\nthoroughly dried Irom the effects of the\nsmoothing, is rubbed down with glass paper or\nsand paper, to take off any little asperities that\nmay remain, and to make the whole perfectly\nsmooth. It is now ready for the process of\ngold sizing. The burnish gold size used in this\nprocess is composed of ingredients exceedingly\nopposite in their nature, such as pipe clay, red\nchalk, black lead, suet, and bullock s blood.\nThis diversity of ingredients is intended to pro-\nduce different effects; one substance helps to\ngive a brilliancy to the burnish, another to the\nmellowness and smoothness, and so on. The torm","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0251.jp2"},"248":{"fulltext":"Gilding,\n236\nGilding.\nin which the gilder purchases his burnish gold\nsize is that of a solid rather softer than butter.\nHe first takes some very clear size, boiled pur-\nposely to a smaller degree of strength than the\nsize for thick white, or, if already boiled, weak-\nened by water. This size he melts in an earthen\npipkin, but without makingit very hot, and then\nmixes the gold size with the melted size by\nmeans of a clean brush, much in the same\nmanner as a painter mixes his oil paint; the\nconsistence to be about equal to that of cream.\nIt is a source of some confusion that the same\nterm, burnish gold size, is applied to this\ncreamy liquid as to the thicker substance from\nwhich it is prepared; it is necessary to say\nmixed gold size, or unmixed gold size, in\norder to indicate which is meant. This\ngold size is laid on the moulding either\nwith a very soft hog hair brush, or by a large\ncamel hair pencil fixed in a swan s quill.\nThe gold size must be barely warm, and must be\nlaid on with great care so as to leave it equally\nthick in every part, and obliterate the marks of\nthe brush; upon the due observance of a\nmedium between hot and cold, strong and\nweak, and thick and thin, in the gold size laid\non, depends much of the beauty of the moulding\nwhen gilt. From 4 to 8 coats of this gold size are\nlaid on the moulding, each one being perfectly\ndried before the next is applied. A soft, par-\ntially worn piece of glass paper is occasionally\nused, to take off any little roughness that may\nexist. When a sufficient body of gold size is\nlaid on, it is carefully washed with clean water,\na soft sponge and a piece of linen rag. This\nmust be done with attention to the soft edges,\nwhich are very likely to lose the whole of their\ngold-size if care is not used; the object is to\nproduce a perfectly smooth surface, especially\nin those parts which are to be matt gold.\nThe test of good work is to produce the\nsmoothest surface with the least loss of gold\nsize. When the moulding is partially dry from\nthis process, the matt parts are polished with a\npiece of woolen cloth, and the parts to be bur-\nnished receive another coating of gold size,\nlaid on as smoothly as possible. The piece of\nmoulding which is to be gilt is laid along the\nbench with one end higher than the other; and\nas the width of the moulding is broken up into\nseveral divisions, such as hollows and squares,\nit would be impossible to make a leaf of gold\nbend into all the various parts without break-\ning. The gilder learns by experience how\nmany separate lays, as they are called, of gold\nwill be required to cover the width of the\nmoulding without the breaking of the gold\ninto irregular fractures called spider legs. In\ngeneral, a deep hollow, or a depressed square,\ncannot be gilt at one lay, but must be covered\nwith two strips of gold laid side by side and\nmeeting at the center of the depression. When\nthe gilder has made his decision as to the num-\nber of lays that will be required, he selects one\nlay, and proceeds with it through the whole\nlength of the moulding before he begins»an-\nother portion of the width. If the necessary\nlay be about or of an inch in width, he\ncuts the leaf which is spread out on his cushion\ninto four strips; if it be about 1 inch in width,\nhe cuts the leaf into three, regulating the di-\nvision of the leaf of gold according to the\nwidth of the lay. It is not often that a larger\npiece than half a leaf is used at once. The\ngilder .has at hand a pan with clean water, and\ntwo or three camel hair pencils of different\nsizes. With one of these pencils he wets a few\ninches of that part of the moulding which is\nto form his first lay, taking care not to wet\nmuch beyond that lay. The water is to be al-\nlowed to remain pretty full on the surface,\nafter some of it has been imbibed by the gold\nsize. The gilder then takes his tip in his right\nhand, and lays it on the slip or gold, which\nslightly adheres to the hairs; whence he places\nit on the moulding, with particular attention\nto straightness of direction. It frequently\nhappens that the hairs of the tip will not take\nup the gold; in such case it is usual to rub the.\nhairs between the cheek and the palm of the\nhand, by which their power of taking up the\ngold is increased. When the gold is laid on it\nis blown forcibly, to expel as much of the\nwater as possible from beneath it, the dry\ncamel hair pencil being used to press down any\nparts which fail to adhere. Another portion is\nthen wetted, and another piece laid on, lapping\nabout Yq of an inch over the end of the former\npiece. Thus the gilder proceeds, piece after\npiece, until the one lay is carried down the\nwhole length of the moulding; he then pro-\nceeds with another lay joining the former. In\ndoing this he has to observe that the water\nmust be made to flow a little over the edge of\nthe former lay; but not so as to wash it up, or\nbreak away the edge; the second lay must lap\na little over the first, and therefore the water\nmust likewise extend over the first lay. Thus\nhe proceeds with all the lays into which he has\nfound it necessary to divide the width of the\nmoulding; every piece, lengthwise, lapping\nover the piece previously put on, and every\nlay lapping over the previous lay. The mould-\ning is then set aside to dry. There is a par-\nticular state or degree of dryness, known only\nby experience, in which the moulding is in a fit\nstate for burnishing.\nThe burnishers used by the gilder are either\nof flint or agate, generally the former. The steel\nburnishers employed by the jeweler would not\ndo for the gilder. Burnishers of different forms\nand sizes must be employed, in order to adapt\nthem to the part of the work which is being\nburnished. They are generally crooked or\ncurved near the end. When the burnishing is\ndone, those parts which have not been\nburnished are weak sized, that is, they are\nwetted with water in which a very little clear\npiece of size has been melted; this helps to se-\ncure the gold. When dry, the gold is wiped\ncarefully with a piece of soft cotton wool, to\nremove rough or ragged edges of gold; and\nthere are now visible a number of little breaks,\nholes, and faulty places in the gilding, arising\nfrom the impossibility of laying on the gold\nquite soundly and perfectly.\nThese defective parts are repaired by the\nprocess of faulting, which consists of cutting\nup a leaf of gold into small pieces and laying\nthem on the faulty places, previously wetted\nwith a camel hair pencil. If the defective part\nis on the burnish, it is necessary to be careful\nnot to wet any part but what is to be covered\nby the gold, as it will stain the burnished gold.\nWhen the faulting is dry, the gold is again\ncarefully wiped, and finally wetted with finish-\ning size. This is clear size of a certain degree\nof strength, laid on the matt parts with a\npencil, and completes the process of gilding.\nWhen a glass frame is to be gilt, the joiner s\nwork is generally quite completed before the\ngilder begins, and great care is required in\nwhiting such frames, to prevent filling up the\ncorners with whiting, and giving them a\nclumsy appearance. For this purpose, model-\ning tools, such as chisels, gouges, and crooks,\nare used to clear out the corners from time to\ntime, and preserve the original sharpness and\nclearness of the several parts.\nComposition for Moulding.— The following is\nused by gilders: Mix 14 lb. of glue, 7 lb. resin,\nJ^lb. pitch, 2J^ pt. linseed oil, 5 pt. of water,\nmore or less according to the quantity re-\nquired. Boil the whole together, well stirring\nuntil dissolved, add as much whiting as will\nrender it of a hard consistency, then press it\ninto mould, which has been previously oiled\nwith sweet oil. No more should be mixed than\ncan be used before it becomes sensibly hard, as\nit will require steaming before it can be used\nagain.\nAnother Receipt.— Make a very clear glue\nwith 3 parts of Flanders glue and 1 part of\nisinglass, by dissolving the two kinds separ-","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0252.jp2"},"249":{"fulltext":"Gilding.\n337\nGlass.\nately in a large quantity of water, and mix\nthem together, after they have been strained\nthrough a piece of fine linen to separate the\nparts which could not be dissolved. The quan-\ntity of water cannot be fixed, because all kinds\nof glue are not homogeneous, so that some re-\nquire more than others. The proper strength\nmay be found by suffering the glue to become\nperfectly cold; it must then barely form a\njelly. The glue is to be gently heated, then\nmixed with sawdust sifted through a fine\nsieve. The moulds are then to be oiled with\nnut oil, and the glue pressed into the mould,\ncovered with weighted board, and then set to\ndry near a stove. When the casting is dry it is\nto be trimmed.\nBurnished Gilt Frames.— When new burnished\ngilding requires varnishing, white hard spirit\nvarnish is used or yellow gold lacquer. Old\nburnished work must be cleaned with great\ncare. First remove the dust with a badger\nhair brush; afterward clean the gilding by\npassing a clean sponge, dipped in gin and\nwater, lightly over the surface, wiping off the\nmoisture with a very soft dry sponge or silk\nhandkerchief; then apply the varnish, and\nfinish.\nCleaning Gilt Frames.— Gilt frames may be\ncleaned by simply washing them with a small\nsponge, wet with urine, hot spirits of wine, or\noil of turpentine, not too wet, but sufficiently\nto take off the dirt and fly marks. They should\nnot be afterward wiped, but left to dry of\nthemselves.\nBegilding Frames.— Take a sponge and some\nclean water and wash the frame well, then let\nit dry, procure some water gold size; make\nsome thin size from dry hide or parchment,\nmix enough warm with the gold size to enable\nyou to work it on the frame with a camel hair\nbrush, give it two coats; when dry, rub it over\nwith a piece of fine sand paper; it will then be\nready for gilding. When the frame is covered,\nrest it on its edge to drain; when perfectly dry\ndip a pencil into water, and wipe the gold over\nwith it; it will take the particles of gold off and\nmake it appear solid. For any parts not\ncovered, take bits of leaf with a dry pencil, and\nlay on as before, then give the whole a coat of\nclear parchment size, brush the back edges\nover with ocher, and the frame is then ready.\nSigns, to Gild.— Use gold and silver leaf. Take\na little fine isinglass, as much as will lie on a\nfive cent piece, and dissolve in a little boiling\nwater. Add as much alcohol as there is water,\nand strain through silk. Paint the letters on a\nsheet of paper with Brunswick black; fix the\npaper, with the writing reversed, on the glass.\nUse the isinglass solution as a mordant, laying\nit on with a camel s hair pencil, and then apply\nthe gold leaf. Place the glass in a warm room;\nand when the gilding is dry, rub over with a\npiece of cotton wool. Pass a flat camel s hair\nbrush, moistened with the isinglass solution,\nlightly over the gold letters; let the solution\nbe hot for this operation. A second coating\nof gold leaf will improve the work. Mark in\nthe outline on the back with soap, use a size\ncomposed of gum tragacanth in water, have\nthe size as thin as possible.\nSolution for Gilding Silver.— Dissolve equal\nparts, by weight, of bichloride of mercury\n(corrosive sublimate) and chloride of ammo-\nnium (sal ammoniac) in nitric acid; now add\nsome grain gold to the mixture, and evaporate\nthe liquid to half its bulk; apply while hot to\nthe surface of the silver article.\nSize, Oil, for Gilding.— Grind calcined red\nocher with the best and oldest drying oil, and\nmix with it a little oil of turpentine when\nused. When the work is to be gilded first give\nit a coat of parchment size; then apply the\nabove size, where requisite, either in patterns\nor letters, and let it remain, till, by touching\nit with the finger, it feels just sticky; then\napply the gold leaf and dab it on with a little\npiece of cotton; in about an hour wash off the\nsuperfluous gold with sponge and water, and\nwhen dry varnish with copal varnish.\nSize for Bronzing and Gliding.— A combina-\ntion of asphaltum, drying oil and spirits of\nturpentine will be found useful as a size for\nbronzing and pale gilding. A size for cloth,\nsilk, etc., may be made by taking a little honey\nmixed with thick glue. This is to be reduced\nto a proper consistency, and it then has the\neffect of giving a fine bright luster.\nPreserving Gilding.— The gilding on frames,\netc., can, says the Colorist, be rendered much\nmore durable without interfering with its lus-\nter, by giving it a coating with a warm mixture\nof 1 part of linseed oil and 2 of turpentine. To\nclean the gilding of fly specks, a mixture of\n1 part of ammonia to 3 or 4 of water is recom-\nmended.\nTo Bepair Luster Gilding. Make a com-\npound by melting Venetian turpentine, white\nwax and a little soap, over a moderate fire.\nApply to the injured places with a brush.\nLet it remain for an hour, then lay on the\ngilding.\nWater Gilding, upon Silver. Pour strong\nvinegar on copper flakes; add alum and salt in\nequal quantities; set on a fire, and when the\nvinegar has boiled until it becomes J4 part its\noriginal quantity, throw into the metal you\ndesign to gild, and it will assume a copper\ncolor. Continue boiling, and it will change\ninto a fine gold color.\nSteel, to Gild.— Polished steel may be beauti-\nfully gilded by means of the ethereal solu-\ntion of gold. Dissolve pure gold in aqua\nregia, evaporate gently to dryness, so as to\ndrive off the superfluous acid, redissolve in\nwater, and add three times its bulk of sulphuric\nether. Allow to stand for twenty-four hours\nin a stoppered bottle, and the ethereal solution\nof gold will float at top. Polished steel dipped\nin this is at once beautifully gilded, and by\ntracing patterns on the surface of the metal\nwith any kind of varnish, beautiful devices in\nplain metal and gilt will be produced. For\nother metals the electro process is best.\nGilding, Varnish.— 1. Beeswax, 4 oz. verdi-\ngris and sulphate of copper, each 1 oz. Mix.\n2. Beeswax, 4 oz. verdigris, red ocher and\nalum, of each 1 oz.; mix. Used to give a red\ngold color to water gilding.\nGinger Beer. See Beers.\nGinger Pop.— One oz. tartaric acid white\nsugar, 5 lb.; l\\i lb. bruised ginger (root); 12 gal.\nof water; whites of 6 eggs beaten to a froth;\noil of lemon, 2 drm. The ginger root should be\nboiled for one half hour in 2 gals, of water;\nstrain carefully and add the oil. After twenty-\nfour hours strain and bottle.\nGlaire.— Glaire may be made from the white\nof an egg beaten up with an egg beater. A\nlittle vinegar should be mixed with it before\nbeating, and a drop of ammonia added as an\nantiseptic.\nGlass.— Bending Glass Tubes.— 1. Place the\npart where the curve is required in the flame of\na spirit lamp or in an ordinary gas flame (the\nwhole of the surface must be equally heated);\nwhen the glass begins to soften, a gentle pres-\nsure by the hands will give the necessary bend.\n2. Fill them with sand; this is necessary in\nthree cases: when the tube is very wide, when\nthe glass is thin and when the curve is to be of\na very long radius; in the latter case the tube\nfilled with sand is best heated over a large\nfurnace with burning- charcoal.\nBoring Glass. See Drilling Glass, below.\nBottle Glass.-Sp. gr., 2 700 to 2 735.\na. Composition by analysis:\n1. Silica, 53-55^; lime, 29 22#; mixed alkali,\n5*48^; alumina, 6*01#; oxide of iron, 5 74\nDark green.\n2. Silica, 52£; baryta, 21 6^; soda, 26 1£; oxides\nof iron and manganese, 0 3^. Pale green; very\nsuperior.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0253.jp2"},"250":{"fulltext":"Glass.\nGlass.\nb. Raw materials used\n1. Yellow sand, 20$; kelp, 8$; lixiviated wood\nashes, 30$; fresh wood ashes, 8$; pale clay, 16$;\ncullet (broken glass), 18$. This is the common\nmixture for coarse bottles in Belgium, France\nand Germany.\n2. To the last add of black oxide of manga-\nnese 2}4 to 3$. This has a rich yeDowish color;\nused for Rhenish wine bottles.\n3. Pale sand, 51$; lixiviated wood ashes, 33$;\npearl ashes (dried), 8$; common salt, 7J^$; white\narsenic, y^%\\ charcoal, q. s. Very pale green.\n4. Siliceous sand (pale), 68^j$; potash (or its\nequivalent), 4$; lime, 23^$; heavy spar, 2^$-\nperoxide of manganese, V This forms the\nfamous flask glass of St. Etienne.\nGlass, Cement for.— See Cements.\nGlass, Chemical. Sp. gr. 2*390 to 2*396.\na. By analysis:\n1. Silica, 72 80$; potassa, 16 80$; lime (with a\ntrace of alumina) 9 68$; magnesia, 40$; traces\nof oxide of magnesia and iron (and loss), 32$.\nThis is the difficultly fusible Bohemian tube\nglass so valuable in chemical manipulations.\nGlass to Clean. If greasy, wipe with tow, then\nwith nitric acid or caustic potash, rinse well.\nSee also cleansing.\nGlass Coating on Metals.— The following meth-\nod has been suggested for coating metallic\nsurfaces with glass: Take about 125 parts (by\nweight) of ordinary flint glass fragments, 20 of\nsoda carbonate and 12 of boracic acid and melt.\nPour the fused mass out on some cold surface,\nas of stone or metal, and pulverize when cooled\noff. Make a mixture of this powder with soda\nsilicate waterglass) of 50° B. With this coat\nthe metal to be glazed and heat in a muffle or\nother furnace until it has fused. This coating-\nis said to adhere very firmly to steel or iron.\nGlass, Crayons to Write on. See Crayoiis.\n{jriass, Crown. White window glass. Sp.gr.\n2-486 to 2.488.\na. By analysis\n1. Silica, 62 8$; potassa, 22*1$; lime, 15*5$; alu-\nmina (with traces of oxide of iron and mang-\nanese), 2 6$. Crown glass of Bohemia according\nto Dumas. Very beautiful.\n2. Silica, 72*5$; soda, 17*75$ lime, 975$; En-\nglish crown glass; excelleut quality, but not so\nwhite as the last.\n~b. Material used\n1. Finest white siliceous sand, 64$; purified\npotashes (dry), 23$; lime, 12$; white arsenic,%$;\noxide of manganese, J4$- Said to be used in\nBohemia.\n2. (Schweigger) pure sand, 57$; dry sulphate\nof soda, 28^2$; quicklime, UJ^$; powdered char-\ncoal, 3 or 4$. Corresponds to a 2 above (nearly).\n3. Pure sand, 40$; soda ash, 24$; lime, 5$; white\ncullet (broken glass fine), 31$. Rather superior\nto the last.\nCrystal, Crystal Glass.— The crystal glass of\nEngland is flint glass of superior quality; that\nof Bohemia is noticed under Table Glass.\nCutting Glass Bottles.— This method consists\nin the use of what in German is called spreng-\nkohle, cracking cold. The sprengkohle is made\nof finely ground lime wood charcoal. The coal\npowder is transformed by means of sufficient\ngum tragacanth and water into a dough or\npaste, out of which small cylinders of the size\nof a pencil are made by rolling between two\nsmall pieces of board. Such a cylinder of\nsprengkohle, ignited at one end, glows slowly.\nSuch sprengkohle may be bought at stores for\nchemical and physical necessities. Now as for\nthe use of the sprengkohle, it is as follows\nPut a drop of water on the spot where the\ncrack is to begin. Make a short incision with a\nthree edged file. Wipe the water away. Touch\nthe incision with the glowing sprengkohle,\nblowing on it if required. After a few seconds\nthe glass will crack for a length of J4 to 1 in.\nIf now you move slowly the sprengkohle, the\ncrack follows it wherever you please.\nCutting Glass.— To cut glass well a fine dia-\nmond should be used and considerable skill is\nrequired in its use. The file and the red hot\npoker are also efficient means of cutting glass,\nthe crack following the hot iron.\nGZoss, to Darken.— The following, if neatly\ndone, renders the glass obscure yet diaphanous:\nRub up, as for oil colors, a sufficient quantity\nof sugar of lead with a little boiled linseed oil,\nand distribute this uniformly over the pane\nfrom the end of a hog-haired tool by a dabbing,\njerking motion, until the appearance of ground\nglass is obtained. It may be ornamented, when\nperfectly hard, by delineating the pattern with a\nstrong solution of caustic potash, giving it such\ntime to act as experience dictates, and then\nexpeditiously wiping out the portion it is neces-\nsary to remove.\nGtass, to Draw on.— Grind lampblack with\ngum water and some common salt draw the\ndesign with a pen or hair pencil; or use a crayon\nmade for the purpose.\nDrilling and Boring Glass.— To drill a quarter\ninch hole in a glass\nshade make a hole in a\npiece of wood or metal\nof the size that you de-\nsire to drill in the glass.\nFasten it with beeswax\nupon the glass for a\nguide. A piece of brass\nor copper tubing, quite\nthin, is supplied with\nemery (No. 100) and\nwater and twirled be-\ntween fingers, or with\na bow string. This will\ncut. a hole in a few\nminutes. You can feed\nthe emery and water a\nlittle at a time through\nthe tube. The sketch\nwill give an idea as to the principle.\nGlass, to Drill.— 1. Can be done with a hard\ndrill and spirits of turpentine— a tedious and\nuncertain process, and only for small holes.\nA diamond drill is much better and cheaper, if\nthere are many holes to drill. If large holes\nare wanted, from J4 in to 1 in. or larger, pre-\npare a piece of thin tubing of brass or copper, of\nthe required size of hole, of 1 or 2 in. in length,\nwith small spindle and grooved pulley attached,\nsomething after the style of the watch maker s\nbow drill. Fasten upon the plate of glass, at\nthe point to be drilled, a ring of metal or wood\nfor a guide to keep the tubular drill in its place,\nuntil the cut is started sufficiently to steady the\ncutter. Lay the glass plate horizontally, and\nwork the drill perpendicularly with the bow,\nusing one hand to steady the upper end of the\ndrill stock. Feed emery (about No. 9i)) and water\ninto the open end of the tube as fast as re-\nquired. In a very short time you will cut a\ndisk out of the plate.\n2. For drilling holes in glass, a common steel\ndrill, well made and well tempered, the Glass-\nware Review claims to be the best tool. The\nsteel should be forged at a low temperature, so\nas to be sure not to burn it, and then tempered\nas hard as possible in a bath of salt water that\nhas been well boiled. Such a drill will go\nthrough glass very rapidly if kept well moist-\nened with turpentine in which some camphor\nhas been dissolved. Dilute sulphuric acid is\nequally good, if not better. It is stated that at\nBerlin glass castings for pump barrels, etc., are\ndrilled, planed, and bored like iron ones, and in\nthe same lathes and machines, by aid of sul-\nphuric acid. A little practice with these dif-\nferent plans will enable the operator to cut and\nwork glass as easily as brass or iron.\n3. The following directions were contributed\nto Design and Work by an optician First make\na saturated solution of camphor in spirits of\nturpentine; then make a spear-shaped drill the\nsize of hole required; heat the drill to a white","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0254.jp2"},"251":{"fulltext":"Glass.\n239\nGlass.\nheat and plunge into mercury, and it will then\nbe very hard; sharpen on an oilstone, knock\ndrill in a bradawl handle, dip the end of drill in-\nto the above solution, and work it as if you\nwere working- it through wood. It is no use\nfixing the drill in a drillstock, because the\nmotion all one way will not do. Keep the drill\nwell moistened with the solution, and sharpen\nit when blunt. A file dipped into solution will\nfile the hole larger, and will not get blunt. See\nalso Hardening.\nEmbossing Glass. See Gilding (Embossing).\nEtching Glass. See Etching.\nFlint Glass.— The following quantities form a\nvery excellent glass\nFine white sand 300 parts.\nRed lead or litharge 200 parts.\nRefined pearlashes 80 parts.\nNiter 20 parts.\nArsenic and manganese, a small quantity.\nGlass, Flint, Crystal— Sp. gr. 3-000 to 3-620.\na. By analysis\n1. (Berthier.) Silica, 59*19$; oxide of lead,\n•28*68$: potassa, 12*13$; oxides of iron and\nmanganese, traces. Finest colorless English\ncrystal.\n2. (Brande: Faraday.) Silica, 52$; oxide of\nlead, 34$; potassa, 34$. Crystal.\n3. (Faraday.) Silica, 44*30$; oxide of lead,\n43*05$; potassa, 11*75$; alumina, 0*50$; oxides of\niron and manganese, 0*12$; (loss 28$).\nHeaviest of three samples of flint glass ex-\namined.\nb. Materials used\n1. Finest Lynn sand (calcined, sifted and\nwashed), 0*51$; litharge (purest), 28$ (or red lead,\n29$); refined pearlashes (calcined before being-\nweighed), 16$; niter (purified), 4%$; arsenious\nacid and peroxide of manganese, of each\nVery fine crystal.\n2. (M. Payen.) Fine sand, 46$ red lead, 31$;\npurified carbonate of potash, 23$. French\ncrystal.\n3. (Geddes.) White Lynn sand, 51$; red lead\nor litharge, 33$; refined pearlashes, 13$; niter,\n3$; a very little arsenious acid and peroxide of\nmanganese. Ordinary English flint glass. Crys-\ntal cullet may be added at will to the above.\nThis glass was originally prepared from pow-\ndered flints, a fact to which it owes its common\nname.\nGlass, Optical.— 1. (Crown glass.) Purest sil-\nicious sand, 55$; carbonate of soda (dry), 12$;\nchalk (dry), 11$; carbonate of baryta, 22$.\nFrosting Glass— Rub over with a little bag\nof muslin filled with fine sand, powdered glass,\nor grindstone grit and water. Some sand may\nbe placed directly on the glass.\n2. Clean the windows thoroughly and moisten\nwith hydrofluoric acid. When frosted enough\nwash thoroughly.\nGlass, to Gild. See Gilding.\nGrinding Glass Tube.— It is very easy to true\nthe interior of glass tube by chucking same\n(cemented hot by pitch) into a true hole bored\nby a slide rest in a wooden carver s chuck, at-\ntached to a lathe face plate. Then grind out\nwith fine emery the interior by sliding a rod of\nsteel one-third less diameter, fixed firmly and\ntruly in the slide rest tool holder, so as to just\nbear upon the descending side of the inner\ntube, as the former moves in and out, and is\nconstantly supplied with plenty of water and\nfresh emery. Polish by wrapping a few thick-\nnesses of alpaca or linen round the steel, and\nuse finely washed rouge. This is the only way\nto get a perfectly true barrel.\nGround Glass.— The frosted appearance of\nground glass may be very nearly imitated by\ngently dabbing the glass over with a piece of\nglazier s putty, stuck on the ends of the fingers.\nWhen applied with a light and even touch, the\nresemblance is considerable. Another method\nis to dab the glass over with thin white paihfc,-\nor flour paste, by means of a brush but this is\nmuch inferior to the former. Used for win-\ndows.\nImitation Ground Glass.— A very useful kind\nof varnish is made known by Leon Vidal, which\nis excellent for producing imitation of ground\nglass, and will doubtless be found available for\nother purposes. The formula is: Sandarac, 18\nparts; mastic, 4 parts; ether, 200 parts; benzol,\n80 to 100 parts.— Illustrated Scientific News.\nImitation Ground Glass that Steam will not\nDestroy.— Put a piece of putty in muslin, twist\nthe fabric tight and tie it into the shape of a\npad; well clean the glass first, and then pat\nit over. The putty will exude sufficiently\nthrough the muslin to render the stain opaque.\nLet it dry hard and then varnish. If a pattern\nis required cut it out in paper as a stencil; place\nit so as not to slip and proceed as above, remov-\ning the stencil when finished. If there should\nbe any objection to the existence of the clear\nspaces, cover with slightly opaque varnish.\nGround Glass Substitute— Use gutta percha\ndissolved in chloroform.\nGlass, to Cut Large Holes in.—l. Bore a hole\nin the center by means of a hard steel drill\nmoistened with turpentine; cut the circle with\na good glazier s diamond guided by a small\npiece of copper wire centered in the hole just\nbored, and by means of cuts radiating from the\ncenter to the circumference divide the circle\ninto numerous small sectors. Then, with a small\npiece of metal, tap the glass on the posterior\nside gently, following each cut throughout its\nextent. When this has been properly done,\nfasten a piece of putty over the area of the\ncircle on the cut side of the glass; and,\nwhile holding the putty, tap the glass on the\nother side firmly in the center of the circle.\nToo much pressure on the diamond will cause\nit to scratch without cutting the glass.\n2. New Remedies describes the folloAving easy\nmethod of making a hole in plate glass: Make\na circle of clay or cement rather larger than\nthe intended hole, pour some kerosene into the\ncell thus made, ignite it, place the plate upon a\nmoderately hard support, and with a stick\nrather smaller than the hole required, and a\nhammer, strike a rather smart blow. This will\nleave a rough edged hole, which may be smooth-\ned with a file. Cold water is said to answer\neven better than a blow. See also Drilling and\nBoring Glass above.\nOrnamenting Glass.— J. B. Miller contributes\nto Neuste Erfindung a description of a rapid\nand practical method of printing designs or\nlabels on glass. The ink employed consists of\n90 parts of French oil of turpentine, 30 parts of\nBurgundy pitch, 10 parts of pulverized Syrian\nasphalt and 2 parts of pulverized mastic. These\nare boiled together and form a pasty varnish,\nwhich is spread out on a plate of ground glass,\nfrom which it is transferred to the rubber type\nby means of a rubber roller. The ink must\nnot be put on too thick. The glass is printed\nwith this ink, and then dusted over with finely\npulverized Syrian asphalt and heated in a sheet\niron muffle until the ink and asphalt unite to\nform a brilliant varnish. If the glass is to be\ndeeply etched the dusting with asphalt must\nbe repeated.\nIf the whole glass is not to be rendered matt,\nthe remainder is covered, with the exception\nof a round or oval vignette, with a mixture of\n1 part stearine and 2 or 3 parts tallow. It is\nthen put in lye, and the part that is to be etched\nis well washed with water, when the glass is put\nin dilute hydrofluoric acid for five minutes,\nrinsed with water and put in the matt bath,\nwhere it is left fifteen or twenty minutes. It\nis afterward cleansed with hot lye and pol-\nished.\nPainting on Glass.— Clear resin, 1 oz.; melt in\nan iron vessel, let cool a little, but not harden,\nthen add oil of turpentine .sufficient to keep it","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0255.jp2"},"252":{"fulltext":"Glass.\n240\nGlass.\nin a liquid state. When cold, use it with colors\nground, in oil.\nGlass Paper. See Paper.\nGlass, Photographic, to Remove the Films\nfrom.— To 8 oz. of water add 10 minims of hy-\ndrofluoric acid pour the mixed solution in a\nrubber tray, immerse in the solution one nega-\ntive at a time. In about a minute the film will\nloosen at the edges, and with a flat wood stick\nmay be rolled up off the plate and removed bod-\nily. Negative after negative may be thus easily\ncleansed. Keep the fingers from touching the\nsolution as much as possible. Another method\nis to soak the plates in a hot dilute sal soda\nsolution, which will dissolve out the film.\nGlass for Photographic Use.— If the glass is\nnew, clean with nitric acid and tripoli if old,\nand there is a film adhering, boil in a solution\nof caustic potash.\nGlass, Plate Sp. gr. 2*488 to 2*600.\na. By analysis\n1. (Dumas) Silica, 75*9$ soda, 17*5$ lime, 3*8$;\nalumina, 2*8$. French mirror glass.\n2. (Mitscherlich.) Silica, 60$: potassa, 25$; lime,\n12*5$; loss, 2*5($). Finest Bohemian plate.\nlb. Materials used\n1. Finest siliceous sand, 45$ dried carbonate\nof soda, 25$ lime, 5% niter (purified), 2% plate\nglass cullet, 23$; peroxide of manganese and\ncobalt azure, a very little. Ordinary English\nplate.\n2. Whitish quartz sand, 60$ purified carbon-\nate of soda (dried), 20$ lime (slaked by expos-\nure to the air), 9%; plate glass cullet, 11$ (or\nmore). Sometimes as much cullet as sand is\nused but in all cases 1% to I£g of its weight in\ncarbonate of soda is added with it besides that\nordered in the formula, to compensate for the\nloss of alkali by remelting. Used at the cele-\nbrated plate glass works at Saint-Gobain,\nFrance. The product possesses an amount of\nexcellence which British manufacturers have\nyet failed to equal.\nGlass, to Powder.— Make a piece of glass red\nhot in the fire, and while in this state plunge it\ninto cold water it will immediately break into\npowder; this must be sifted and dried; it is\nthen fit for making glass paper, for filtering\nvarnishes, and for other purposes.\nTo Prepare Ruby Colored Glass.— We find re-\nported in the American Journal of Photography\nthe following formula given by Mr. Bell before\na meeting of the Philadelphia Photographic\nSociety\nDissolve in\nWater 6 oz.\nHeinrich s gelatine 150 grn.\nChloride of ammonium 3 grn.\nTo the above solution is added the following\nsolution\nWater oz.\nNitrate of silver 30 grn.\nThe new solution thus made is warmed to a\ntemperature of 100° F., and flowed on a glass\nplate, previously warmed. One oz. is sufficient\nto cover a 10 by 12 plate.\nAfter coating, place the glass on a level mar-\nble slab or glass plate to set and dry. When\ndry expose to sunlight, and the color will\nchange to a beautiful orange ruby exactly\nsuitable for dark room illumination.\nRupert s Drops are made by letting drops of\nmelted glass fall into cold water the drop as-\nsumes by that means an oval form with a tail\nor neck resembling a retort. They possess this\nsingular property, that if a small portion of\nthe tail is broken off the whole bursts into\npowder with an explosion, and a considerable\nshock is communicated to the hand that\ngrasps it.\nRust, Removal of from Window Glass.— Try a\nmixture of 30 parts of water with 7 of hydro-\nchloric acid and a trace of iodine. Rub the\nplate with a linen rag moistened with the fluid\nand then polish.\nScratches on Glass, to Remove.— Slight scratches\nmay be partially polished out by rubbing the\npart with rouge wet with water upon a piece\nof soft leather. If it is a deep scratch, it will\nhave to be ground out with the finest flour\nemery, such as is used by opticians, and the\nspot polished with rouge and water upon a\npiece of soft leather. If you have much of this\nkind of work to do, it will save time to set up\na buff wheel made of wood and grind out the\nscratches with fine pumice stone and water.\nThen polish with a felt buff and rouge with\nwater.\nGlass Staining.— Use colors which come pre-\npared especially for this purpose, as it hardly\npays to prepare them, and the results are much\nmore uniform. In general the colors are rubbed\nup on glass with spirits of turpentine or lav-\nendar and applied to the glass, which has pre-\nviously been sponged with gum water, to give\nit a slight tooth. Considerable skill .and many\nattempts must be made before satisfactory\nwork can be done. When the painting is fin-\nished each piece is fired in a muffle and is\nlaid in a bed of sifted lime. Great skill is re-\nquired in the firing and no general directions\ncan be given. It is a much better plan to send the\npieces to a man who makes a specialty of firing\nglass.\nGlass, to Silver. See Silvering.\nGlass, Soluble.— -Water glass. An impure alka-\nline silicate. Silica, 1 part; carbonate of potas-\nsium or of sodium 2 parts fused together.\nCarbonate of sodium (dry), 54 parts; carbonate\nof potassium (dry), 70 parts; silicia, 192 parts,\nas last. Soluble in boiling water, yielding a\nfine transparent semi-elastic varnish. Carbon-\nate of potassium (dry), 10 parts; powdered\nquartz (or sand free from iron and alumina), 15\nparts charcoal, 1 part; fused together. Soluble\nin 5 or 6 times its weight of boiling water, and\nthe filtered solution evaporated to dryness,\nyields a transparent glass, permanent in the\nair.\nGlasses, to Tune.— (To play on with the palm of\nthe hand.) The tones are dependent on the\nglasses and the amount of water used. Moisten\nthe palm of the hand with water. Some use a\nlittle glycerine,,\nGlass, Varnish for. See Varnislies.\nGlass, Window.— Broad, Spread. Sp. gr. 2*642..\na. By anlysis: Silica, 69*70$; lime, 13*30^$\nsoda, 15*25$; oxide of iron (and loss), 1*75$.\nb. Materials used 1. White sand, 50$; dried\nsulphate of soda, 22$; charcoal (in powder), 9$;\ncullet (broken glass), 41$; peroxide of man-\nganese, a little. Pale blue. 2. White sand, 60$;\npotashes (good), 24$ common salt, 10$ niter,\n5$; white arsenic, 1$; peroxide of manganese,,\na little (iW to T V%) pale cullet (broken glass),\nat will (10 to 30$). This is the spread or sheet\nwindow glass in common use.\n2. Flint Glass.— a. By analysis: Silica, 44*30$\noxide of lead, 43*05$; potassa, 11*75$. This is\nGuinand s dense optical glass.\nb. Materials used 1. Purest quartz, 42$; r3d\nlead (finest), 42$; purified potash, 14%$; purified\nniter, 1*4$. These are the proportions used for\nthe last. 2. (Korner.) Finest quartz (reduced\nto powder and treated with hydrochloric acid,\nwashed and dried), 473^$: red lead, 38^$; cream\nof tartar, 14J^$. The above are used by opti-\ncians in the construction of achromatic object\nglasses.\nGloss, to Write on.— 1. Ether, 500 grn.; san-\ndarac, 30 grn.; mastic, 30 grn. Dissolve, then\nadd benzine in small quantities till the varnish,\nspread on a piece of glass, gives it the aspect of\nroughened glass. The varnish is used cold. To\nhave a homogeneous layer, pour over that al-\nready formed, some oil of petroleum, let it\nevaporate a little, then rub in all directions","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0256.jp2"},"253":{"fulltext":"Glazes.\n241\nGlaze*.\n-with cambric cloth till all is quite dry. With\nink or lead pencil, lines can be produced on this\nsurface as fine as may be desired Thus a\ndrawing 1 may be prepared in a few minutes and\nimmediately projected.— Crova.\n2. The glass is to be first gently heated at a\nspirit lamp or gas flame, till steam ceases to be\ndeposited on it, up to 112° or 140° F. (44° to 60°\nC.). Then a particular varnish should be\npoured upon it, as is done in photographic\noperations with collodion. This varnish is com-\nposed of 51 dwt. alcohol, 61 grn. mastic in drops,\nand 122 grn. pounce. The resins are dissolved\nby being heated in a hot water bath, the whole\nbeing in a flask corked and fastened. The\nsolution is afterward filtered. The varnish is\nvery hard, and becomes brilliant and com-\npletely transparent. If it is poux-ed on the cold\n.glass, it becomes opaque and absorbs ink. Draw-\nings may be executed upon it with common\nor Indian ink. Then a thin layer of gum is put\nupon it by dipping the glass in a very diluted\nsolution of gum or any other non-alcoholic\ncoating. This process might be advantageously\nemployed instead of labels on bottles in labora-\ntories, and for making figures on glass, and\nperhaps for tracing drawings, which might\nthus be reproduced by photography —Terquem.\n3. A mixture of flour, ammonia hydrate, and\nhydrochloric acid, thickened with gum acacia,\nforms an ink by which, with a pen, letters or\n-ornaments may be traced on glass, where they\nwill become permanent.\n4. Faber makes pencils for writing upon glass,\nporcelain, metal, etc., as follows: Black 10\nparts lampblack, 40 white wax, 10 of tallow.\n5. White— 40 white lead, 20 wax, 10 tallow.\n6. Blue— 10 Berlin blue, 20 wax, 10 tallow.\n7. Dark blue 15 Berlin blue, 5 gum arabic, 10\ntallow.\n8. Yellow 10 chrome yellow, 20 wax, 10 tal-\nlow.\n9. A varnish of sugar is recommended. It is\nmade by dissolving equal parts of white and\nbrown sugar in water to a thin sirup, adding\nalcohol, and apply to hot glass plates. The\nfilm dries very readily, and furnishes a surface\non which it is perfectly easy to write with a\npen or pencil.\n10. Coachmaker s black japan is the article\nused by gilders on glass. Black japan can be\nthinned with turpentine; and as to being too\ntransparent, there must be some mistake.\nHowever, gilders use two or three coats to get\ndense black, and wash off part of one to make\nthe shadow fall away when such an appearance\nis required.\nGlazes.— Porcelain Glaze.— Forty parts Cor-\nnish stone, 45 parts red lead, 38 parts borax, 32J4\nparts flint, 22^ parts flint glass, 13 parts crystal\nof soda, 5 parts oxide of tin, 1 part enamel blue.\nThe particles are made small and well mixed\ntogether, then calcined in the coolest part of\nthe glazing oven, in seggars thickly lined with\nflint care must be observed that the frit is not\ntoo highly calcined, or brought into a high state\n•of vitrification; if so, it will render it difficult\nto grind, and injure its good qualities in dip-\nping. The frit likewise if too finely ground\nwill cause the glaze to be uneven on the surface\nof the ware if any inconvenience of this nature\narises, by adding a solution of potash in hot\nwater, that defect will be instantly obviated.\nIronstone Glaze.— Thirty-six parts Cornish\nstone, 30 parts borax, 20 parts flint, 15 parts red\nlead, 6 parts crystallized soda, 5 parts oxide of\ntin, part blue calx. With the above frit is to\nbe added 15 parts white lead, 10 parts Cornish\nstone, 10 parts flint; when ground together,\nthe composition is ready lor use should the\nglaze prove too thin for dipping, add a small\nquantity of muriatic acid.\nBody Frit.— Sixty parts Cornish stone, 40 parts\nflint, 30 parts crystallized soda, 8 parts oxide of\ntin, 10 parts borax. This frit is used in small\n-quantities, in china and ironstone bodies.\nFrit for Glazes.— 1. Forty parts Cornish stone,\n36 parts flint glass, 20 parts red lead, 20 parts\nflint, 15 parts potash, 1U parts white lead, 3\nparts oxide of tin. This frit is intended to be\nused in glazes, in lieu of those which con-\ntain a large proportion of borax; there-\nfore, by substituting it when the price of\nthat article is nigh, will, of course, be advanta-\ngeous, and the texture of the glaze will still be\ngood and admissible.\n2. Thirty-six parts Cornish stone, 30 parts red\nlead, 20 parts flint, 20 parts borax, 15 parts crys-\ntal of soda, 5 parts oxide of tin. These two frits\nmay be calcined in the easy part of the glazing\noven, in seggars lined with flint; particular\ncare should be observed that they are clean\nchipped, and free from pieces of seggars, or any\ndirty substance.\nEarthenware, Printed Glaze, Superior.— Ninety\nparts white lead, 35 parts Cornish stone, 20\nparts flint glass, 20 parts flint, 60 parts frit (for\nglazes 2 parts), J4 Part blue calx.\nCommon.— Eighty-five parts white lead, 35\nparts Cornish stone, 22 parts flint, 15 parts flint\nglass, 24 parts frit (for glazes 2 parts), part blue\ncalx. These glazes, when ground, to be sifted\nthrough a fine lawn the former glaze is of the\nfinest texture, and will require rather a thinner\ncoating when dipped than those of common\nglazes. Fire in seggars, either washed with\ncommon glaze or a mixture of lime and slip\nwithout flint.\nCommon Printed Glaze.— Ninety parts white\nlead, 45 parts Cornish stone, 22 parts flint, 20\nparts flint glass, 34 part blue calx. To this,\nafter being properly ground and sifted, add 1\nlb. Of common salt and y lb. of borax, which\nforms a smear or flow, as it is generally termed,\nbut must not be put into the glaze until the\nblue stain is perfectly incorporated with it the\nware dipped therein must be placed in seggars\nwashed with glaze.\nWhite Earthenware Glaze.— Thirty-five parts\nCornish stone, 20 parts borax, 10 parts crystal\nof soda, 20 parts red lead, y 8 part blue calx.\nCalcine and then pulverize coarsely, and grind\nwith 20 lb. white lead, 10 lb. Cornish stone, and\n5 lb. flint.\nBlue and Green Edge Glaze. Seventy-two\nparts litharge, 36 parts Cornish stone, 20 parts\nflint glass, 17 parts flint, 12 parts frit (for glazes,\n2 parts), it part blue calx. The blue and green\nedged ware when dipped in this glaze should be\nperfectly dry previous to being placed in the\nseggars, and the green edge should be seated\nin the coolest part of the glazing oven.\nCream Color Glaze, Superior.— Eighty-five\nparts white lead, 40 parts Cornish stone, 22\nparts flint, 16 parts flint glass, 8 parts frit (for\nglazes, 2 parts).\nCommon.— Seventy-five parts litharge, 40\nparts Cornish stone, 23 parts flint, 10 parts flint\nglass.\nBrown Cottage Glaze.— Sixty parts litharge, 32\nparts flint, 8 parts brown slip. This and the\ntwo following glazes require using about the\nsame consistency as the cream color glaze, and\nwill stand the highest temperature of heat in a\ncommon glazing oven.\nCalcedony Glaze.— Sixty-five parts litharge,\n40 parts Cornish stone, 20 parts flint, 6 parts\nfrit (for glazes, 2 parts).\nDrab Glaze. —Seventy parts litharge, 30 parts\nflint, 25 parts Cornish stone, 10 parts drab slip.\nBlue Glaze.— Fifty parts flint, 30 parts borax,\n22 parts red lead, 10 parts Cornish stone, 6 parts\ncrystallized soda, 6 parts oxide of tin, 3 parts\nblue calx. In preparing this glaze follow the\nsame directions as for porcelain glaze.\nHarmless Glaze.— A harmless glaze for earth-\nenware, destined to replace the lead glazes\nhitherto employed, has lately been devised by\nM. Constantin. One recipe is 100 parts silicate\nof soda, 15 parts powdered quartz and 25 parts\nMeudon chalk. Another is the same with the\naddition of 10 parts of borax. The articles","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0257.jp2"},"254":{"fulltext":"Glazing.\n243\nGlues.\nglazed can be colored by copper for green and\nmanganese for brown.\nTobacco Pipes, Glaze for.—l. Make a satu-\nrated solution of sugar of lead (lead acetate)\nin hot water. Dip the pipes in this, or apply it\nwith a brush to the outside, then dry and ex-\npose in an open muffle at a low red heat until\nproperly glazed.\n2. Potassium carbonate, 1 part; borax, 5\nparts; melt together in a sand crucible and\npour out on an iron plate to cool, then powder\nand mix into a paste with a little turpentine\noil for use. Apply with a brush or clean rag,\nand heat slowly in a muffle or oven to incipient\nredness.\nEnglish for Earthenware— Quartz or glazing\nsand, 28 parts; silver litharge, 40 parts; pipe\nclay, 18 parts; best manganese oxide, 9 parts;\nchalk, 5 parts. Melt into a frit and grind finely.\nGlazing. In ceramics the term is used to\ndenote a covering of the ware with a thin\ncoating of natural or artificial glass to protect\nthe soft body and to render it impervious to\nliquids.\nGloves, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nGloves. Cosmetic. See Cosmetics.\nGloves.— Kid, to Prevent Perspiring.— A lit-\ntle dry corn starch or pulverized soapstone put\non the hands in warm weather will prevent any\nperspiration injuring kid gloves.\nGlove Powder, See Powders.\nGlue, to Bleach. See Bleaching.\nGlue Cements. See Cements.\nGlues. See also Cements, Mucilages\nand Pastes.\nGlue is a cement used for joining pieces of\nwood together, and has for its chief constit-\nuent a substance called gelatine, obtained from\nthe cuttings of hides, skins, tendons and\nother refuse parts of animals, as well as from\ncuttings of leather and parchment, which,\nafter being well soaked in milk of lime, to dis-\nsolve any blood, flesh or fat, are thoroughly\nwashed in a stream of water to remove the\nlime. The material is then boiled in water\nuntil the required adhesive strength is ob-\ntained, when the liquid is run off into a cis-\ntern and clarified with powdered alum, which\nprecipitates in the form of sulphate any lime\nthat may remain, as well as other impurities.\nBefore cooling it is drawn off into moulds, and\nis then in the form of size, which, when cut\ninto slices and dried in the air, hardens into\nglue.\nHints about Glue.— Good glue should be a\nlight brown color, semi-transparent, and free\nfrom waves or cloudy lines. Glue loses much\nof its strength by frequent remelting there-\nfore, glue which is newly made is preferable to\nthat which has been reboiled. The hotter the\nglue the more force it will exert in keeping\nthe joined parts glued together. In all large\nand long joints it should be applied immedi-\nately after boiling. Apply pressure until it is\nset or hardened.\nThe f olio wing, translated from Des Ingenieurs\nTaschenbuch, contains a great deal of valuable\ninformation which will probably be acceptable\nto many of our readers.\nCommon Glue.— The absolute strength of a\nwell glued joint is:\nPounds per square inch.\nAcross the grain, With the\nend to end. grain.\nBeech 2,133 1,095\nElm 1,436 1,124\nOak 1,735 568\nWhite wood 1,493 341\nMaple 1,422 896\nIt is customary to use from one-sixth to one-\ntenth of the above values, to calculate the\nresistance which surfaces joined with glue can\npermanently sustain with safety.\nBank Note or Mouth Glue.— Is made by dis-\nsolving 1 lb. of fine glue, or gelatine, in water,\nevaporating it till most of the water is ex-\npelled, adding J^ pound brown sugar, and\npouring it into moulds. Some add a little\nlemon juice. It is also made with 2 parts of\ndextrine, 2 of water and 1 of spirit.\nBookbinders 1 Glue. Use best carpenters 1 or\nwhite glue, to which, after soaking and heat-\ning, one-twentieth its weight of glycerine is\nadded.\nGlue, of Caseine. 1. (Braconnet.) Dissolve\ncaseine in a strong solution of bicarbonate of\nsoda. 2. (Wagner.)— Dissolve caseine in a cold\nsaturated solution of borax. Superior to gum,\nand takes the place of glue in many cases.\nMay be used for backs of adhesive tickets.\nGlue Cement, See Cements.\nCompound Glue, to Make. Take very fine flour,\nmix it with white of eggs, isinglass and a little\nyeast; mingle the materials and beat them well\ntogether; spread them, the batter being made\nthin with gum water, on even tin plates and\ndry them in a stove, then cut them out for use.\nTo color them tinge the paste with Brazil or\nvermilion for red; indigo or verditer, etc., for\nblue; saffron, turmeric or gamboge, etc., for\nyellow.\nCracking, to Prevent Glue from.—l. Glue fre-\nquently cracks because of the dryness of the\nair in rooms warmed by stoves. An Austrian\ncontemporary recommends the addition of a\nlittle chloride of calcium to glue to prevent\nthis disagreeable property of cracking. Chlor-\nide of calcium is such a deliquescent salt that it\nattracts enough moisture to prevent the glue\nfrom cracking. Glue thus prepared will adhere\nto glass, metal, etc., and can be used for put-\nting on labels without danger of their dropping\noff.\n2. Add a very small quantity of glycerine to\nthe glue. The quantity must be modified ac-\ncording to circumstances.\nDamp Wood, Glue for.—l. Soak pure glue in\nwater until it is soft; then dissolve it in the\nsmallest possible amount of proof spirit by the\naid of a gentle heat. In 2 oz. of this mixture\ndissolve 10 gr. of gum ammoniaeum, and while\nstill liquid add drm. of mastic dissolved in 3\ndrm. of rectified spirit. Stir well and keep the\ncement liquefied in a covered vessel over a hot\nwater bath. It is essentially a solution of glue\nin mastic varnish.\n2. Shellac, 4 oz.; borax, 1 oz.; boil in a little\nwater until dissolved and concentrate by heat\nto a paste.\nElastic Glue which does not spoil is ob-\ntained as follows: Good common glue is dis-\nsolved in water, on the water bath, and the\nwater evaporated down to a mass of thick con-\nsistence, to which a quantity of glycerine,\nequal in weight with the glue, is added, after\nwhich the heating is continued until all the\nwater has been driven off, when the mass is\npoured out into the moulds or on a marble\nslab. This mixture answers for stamps,\nprinter s rolls, galvano-plastic copies, etc.\nEther Glue.— Dissolve glue in nitric ether.\nThe ether will only dissolve a certain amount\nof glue, therefore the solution cannot be made\nvery thick; it will be about the consistency of\nmolasses, and is much more tenacious than glue\nmade with hot water. It is improved by add-\ning a few bits of India rubber, cut into pieces\nabout the size of a buckshot. Let the solution\nstand a few days, stirring frequently.\nFireproof Glue.— Mix a handful of quicklime\nin 4 oz. of linseed oil, boil to a good thickness;\nthen spread on tin plates in the shade, and it\nwill become exceedingly hard, but may be\neasily dissolved over the fire and used as or-\ndinary glue.\nFlower Pots, Glue for Cementing Labels on.\nUse thin paper for label and attach with white","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0258.jp2"},"255":{"fulltext":"Glues.\n243\nGlues.\ngelatine in solution, to which has been added one\nper cent, of bichromate of potash. This must\nbe done in a dark or obscure room. Then ex-\npose the labels to sunlight. After writing, var-\nnish with solution of shellac in alcohol.\nFrozen Glue. The glue while gelatinous is\nsliced, placed on nets and allowed to freeze by\nnatural cold. Of course the process can only\nbe conducted in cold weather. The product is\nporous and much more bulky than hard glue,\nbut is a better article, as it dissolves more\neasily. It sells largely in New England, where\nit is preferred by buyers to the hard glue.\nGlass to Wood, Glue for Joining.— Finely sifted\nwood ashes are added to glue when hot; use im-\nmediately.\nGlue for Repairing Glass.— Dissolve fine glue\nin strong acetic acid to form a thin paste.\nHardening Glue.— Try a little finely powdered\nbrick dust, which will harden quickly in pro-\nportion to the quantity used.\nInsoluble Glue. See Waterproof Glues below.\nIsinglass Glue.— Dissolve isinglass in water\nand strain it through coarse linen. Then add a\nlittle alcohol and evaporate to such a consist-\nency that when cold it will be dry and hard.\nThis will be found to be more tenacious than\ncommon glue and therefore preferable in many\ncases.\nIrory and Bone, Glue for.— Isinglass is boiled\nin water until very thick, when enough zinc\nwhite is added to make the whole the consist-\nency of molasses.\nLabels, to Glue to Iron. Make a paste of rye\nflour and glue. Add linseed oil varnish and tur-\npentine, y% oz. of each to the pound of the\npaste.\nSticking Labels to Tinned Plate. From the\nChemists and Druggists 1 Diary for 1879, p. 188,\nthe following seven methods of making a ce-\nment for affixing paper to tin\n1. Add to ordinary paste a little honey or\nglycerine.\n2. Add muriatic acid to the gum; this is apt\nto cause the metal to rust under and around\nthe label.\n3. Add a litte ammonia, or,\n4. Tartaric acid to the starch paste or mucil-\nage.\n5. Add aluminum sulphate (not alum) to the\nmucilage.\n6. The best plan is said to be to add 20 drops\nof a solution of chloride of antimony to 8 oz. of\npaste of mucilage.\nLeather, to Glue to Iron.— There is a constant\ninquiry as to the best plan for fastening leather\nto iron, and there are many recipes for doing-\nit. But probably the simplest mode, and one\nthat will answer in a majority of cases, is the\nfollowing: To glue leather to iron, paint the\niron with some kind of lead color, say white\nlead and lamp black. When dry, cover with a\ncement made as follows Take the best glue,\nsoak it in cold water till soft, then dissolve it\nin vinegar with a moderate heat, then add\nof the bulk of white pine turpentine, thor-\noughly mix, and by means of the vinegar\nmake it of the proper consistency to be spread\nwith a brush, and apply it while hot; draw the\nleather on quickly, and press it tightly in place.\nIf a pulley, draw the leather round tightly,\nlap, and clamp.\nLeather Goods, Glue for.— This glue, though\nrather complex in composition, gives good re-\nsults. Eight oz. of rye whisky are diluted with 8\noz. of water and the mixture is made into a\npaste with 2 oz. of starch, of an oz. of good\nglue are dissolved in the same amount of water,\nan equal amount of turpentine is added and\nthe mixture and the paste are combined.\nLeather, etc., to Metals.— One part crushed\nnut galls digested six hours with 8 parts dis-\ntilled water and strained. Glue is macerated\nin its own weight of water for twenty-four\nhours, and then dissolved. The warm infusion\nof nut galls is spread on the leather; the glue\nsolution upon the roughened surface of the\nwarm metal; the moist leather is then pressed\nupon it and dried.\nLiquid Glues.— 1. A liquid glue possessing\ngreat resisting power, recommended for wood\nand iron, is prepared, according to Hesz, as\nfollows: Clear gelatine, 100 parts; cabinet-\nmakers 1 glue, 100 parts; alcohol, 25 parts; alum,\n2 parts; the whole mixed with 200 parts of 20^\nacetic acid, and heated on a water bath for six\nhours. An ordinary liquid glue, also well\nadapted for wood and iron, is made by boiling\ntogether for several hours 100 parts glue, 260\nparts water, and 16 parts nitic acid. English\nMechanic.\n2. An improved liquid glue, according to the\nJournal of Applied Chemistry, may be prepared\nby dissolving 3 parts of glue, broken into small\npieces, in 12 to 15 parts of saccharate of lime.\nOn warming, the glue dissolves rapidly, and\nremains liquid when cold, without losing its\nstrength. Any desirable consistency may be\nsecured by varying the amount of saccharate\nof lime.\n3. Two oz. gelatine, 4 oz. water; when the\ngelatine has fully swelled, add 2 oz. glacial\nacetic acid. It is capital for mending china,\nglass, etc.— A. Pumphrey.\n4. Liquid Glue without Acid.— An excellent\nliquid glue is made thus Take of best white\nglue, 16 oz.; white lead, dry, 4 oz.; rain water, 2\npt.; alcohol, 4 oz. With constant stirring dissolve\nthe glue and mix the lead in the water by\nmeans of a water bath. Add the alcohol, and\ncontinue the heat for a few minutes. Lastly,\npour into bottles while it is still hot.\n5. Take a wide mouthed bottle, and dissolve\nin it 8 oz. best glue in y^, pt. water, by setting it\nin a vessel of water, and heating until dis-\nsolved. Then add slowly, 2^£ oz. strong aqua-\nfortis (nitric acid), 36° Baume, stirring all the\nwhile. Effervescence takes place under gene-\nration of nitrous acid. When all the acid has\nbeen added, the liquid is allowed to cool. Keep\nit well corked, and it will be ready for use at\nany moment.\n6. Take of best white glue, 16 oz.; white lead,\ndry, 4 oz.; rain water, 2 pt.; alcohol, 4 oz.; with\nconstant stirring, dissolve the glue and lead\nin the water by means of a water bath. Add\nthe alcohol and continue the heat for a few\nminutes. Lastly pour into bottles while hot.\n7. Take 1 pt. of the common turpentine and\nmix in a quart bottle with 4 fl. oz. 98^ alcohol.\nAgitate weD, and let stand until the two fluids\nseparate. Decant the turpentine (which wilJ\nform the lower layer) from the alcohol, and mix\nit with 1 pt. clear water. Agitate thoroughly,\nand let stand until these two fluids separate,\nthen from the water decant the turpentine\n(which this time will form the upper layer), and,\nfinally, mix with the turpentine about 1 oz.\npowdered starch, and filter through paper.\n8. Lehner publishes the following formula\nfor making a liquid paste or glue from starch\nand acid. Place 5 lb. potato starch in 6 lb.\nwater, and add *4 lb. pure nitric acid. Keep it\nin a warm place, stirring frequently for forty-\neight hours. Then boil the mixture until it\nforms a thick and translucent substance. Di-\nlute with water, if necessary, and filter through\na thick cloth. At the same time another paste\nis made from sugar and gum arabic. Dissolve\n5 lb. gum arabic and 1 lb. sugar in 5 lb. water,\nand add 1 oz. nitric acid and heat to boiling.\nThen mix the above with the starch paste. The\nresultant paste is liquid, does not mould, and\ndries on paper with a gloss. It is useful for\nlabels, wrappers, and fine bookbinders use.\nDry pocket glue is made from 12 parts glue\nand 5 parts sugar. The glue is boiled until en-\ntirely dissolved, the sugar dissolved in the hot\nglue, and the mass evaporated until it hardens\non cooling. The hard substance dissolves rap-\nidly in lukewarm water, and is an excellent glue\nfor use on paper.— Polytech. Notiz.; Pha/rm.\nRecord.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0259.jp2"},"256":{"fulltext":"Glues.\n244\nGlue*.\n9. Cut 6 parts glue in small pieces. Pour 16\nparts water over it, allow it to stand for a few\nhours. Add V/% part sulphate of zinc, 1 part\nhydrochloric acid gas. Keep the mixture at a\ntemperature of 175° to 190° F. for ten or twelve\nhours. This glue may be used for joining all\narticles, even porcelain, glass, mother of pearl,\netc. It does not congeal.\n10. Take of best white glue, 16 oz.; white lead,\ndried, 4 oz.; rain water, 2 pt.; alcohol, 4 oz.\nDissolve the glue and lead in the water by means\nof a water bath, stirring constantly. Add the\nalcohol, and continue the heat for a few min-\nutes. Pour into bottles while it is hot.\n11. Very Strong Liquid Glue.— Glue, 4*4 parts;\nwater, 12 parts. Let them stand several hours.\nTo soften the glue: Add muriatic acid, parts;\nsulphate of zinc, 13^ part. Heat the mixture to\n185° F. for ten or twelve hours. This glue re-\nmains liquid after cooling. Used for sticking\nwood, crockery, and glass.\n12. Russian Liquid Glue.— Soften 50 parts best\nRussian glue in 50 parts warm water. Add,\nslowly, from 2M to 3 parts aquafortis and 3\nparts powdered sulphate of lead.\nMarine Glue.—l. Although now far from new,\nthe extremely valuable marine glue, of Jef-\nfrey, does not seem to be as well known in this\ncountry as it deserves. Prepared by dissolving!\npart India rubber in crude benzine, and mixing\nwith 2 parts shellac by the aid of heat. The\nwaterproof character of this cement, in con-\nnection with its slight elastic flexibility, the ease\nwith which it is applied when warm, and the\npromptness with which it sets on cooling, make\nit a most useful substance in many applications\nto house construction and furniture, as well as\non board ship, where it was originally intended\nto be chiefly employed.\n2. Caoutchouc, 1 oz.; genuine asphaltum, 2 oz.;\nbenzole or naphtha, q. s. The caoutchouc is\nfirst dissolved by digestion and occasional agi-\ntation, and the asphaltum is gradually added.\nThe solution should have about the consistency\nof molasses.\n3. Take of coal naphtha, 1 pt.; pure (not\nvulcanized) rubber, 1 oz.; cut in shreds; and\nmacerate for ten or twelve days, and then rub\nsmooth with a spatula on a slab add at heat\nenough to melt, 2 parts shellac by weight, to 1\npart of this solution. To use it, melt at a tem-\nperature of about 248° F.— E. H. H., of Mass.\n4. Elastic Marine Glue.— Dissolve unvulcan-\nized rubber in chloroform, benzole or bisul-\nphide of carbon. Ropes or other material ex-\nposed to the action of air and water are coated\nwith this glue. Whiting or fine sand may be\nadded.\nGlue, Hints in Melting and Using. The\nhotter the glue, the more force it will exert in\nkeeping the two parts glued togother there-\nfore, in all large and long joints, the glue\nshould be applied immediately after boiling.\nGlue loses much of its strength by frequently\nremelting; that glue, therefore, which is\nnewly made is much more preferable to that\nwhich has been reboiled.\nA Glue to Resist Heat or Moisture. Mix a\nhandful of quicklime in y± lb. of linseed oil;\nboil them to a good thickness and then spread\nit on a slab to cool.\nMoisture Proof Glue.— Moisture proof glue is\nmade by dissolving 16 oz. of glue in 3 pt. of\nskim milk. If a still stronger glue be wanted,\nadd powdered lime.\nParchment Glue.— Parchment, 10 parts, is cut\ninto small pieces and boiled in 128 parts water\nuntil the liquid is reduced to 80 parts. The de-\ncoction is filtered through linen, and evapo-\nrated over a gentle fire until it presents the re-\nquired consistence.\nDry Pocket Glue.— Dry pocket glue is made\nfrom 12 parts of glue and 5 parts of sugar. The\nglue is boiled until entirely dissolved, the sugar\ndissolved in the hot glue, and the mass evapo-\nrated until it hardens on cooling. The hard\nsubstance dissolves rapidly in lukewarm water,\nand is an excellent glue for use on paper.\nPortable or Mouth Glue.— Fine pale glue 1 lb.,\ndissolve over a water bath in sufficient water,\nadd brown sugar J4 lb., continue the heat till\namalgamation is effected; pour on a slab of\nslate or marble, and when cold cut into squares.\nRice Glue. The fine Japanese cement is made\nby mixing rice flour with a sufficient quantity\nof cold water, then boiling gently, with con-\nstant stirring.\nSpaidding s Glue.— Soak the glue in cold water,\nusing only glass, earthen or porcelain dishes.\nThen by gentle heat dissolve the glue in the\nsame water, and pour in a small quantity nitric\nacid, sufficient to give the glue a sour taste like\nvinegar, about 1 oz. to every pound of glue.\nTablets, Glue for.— For 50 lb. of the best glue\n(dry) take 9 lb. glycerine. Soak the glue for ten\nminutes and heat to solution and add- the gly-\ncerine. If too thick, add water. Color with\naniline.\nTungstic Glue.— Tungstic glue has been sug-\ngested as a substitute for hard India rubber, as\nit can be used for all the purposes to which this\nlatter is applied. It is thus prepared Mix. a\nthick solution of g:ue with tungstate of soda\nand hydrochloric acid. A compound of tung*-\nstic acid and glue is precipitated, which, at a\ntemperature of 86 to 104 F., is sufficiently elastic\nto be drawn out into very thin sheets.\nVeneering, Glue, Well Suited for Inlaying.—\nThe best glue is readily known by its transpar-\nency, and being of a rather light brown, free\nfrom clouds and streaks. Dissolve this in water,\nand to every pint add a Yz gill of the best vine-\ngar and 14, oz. of isinglass.\nWaterproof Glue.—l. Glue may be rendered\ninsoluble by tannic acid dissolved in a small\nquantity of soft water.\n2. In order to render glue insoluble in water,\neven hot water, it is only necessary when dis-\nsolving the glue for use to add a little potas-\nsium bichromate to the water and to expose\nthe glued part to light. The proportion of\npotassium bichromate will vary, with circum-\nstances; but for most purposes about one-\nfiftieth of the amount of glue used will suffice.\nIn other words, glue containing potassium bi-\nchromate, when exposed to the light, becomes\ninsoluble.\n3. To make an impermeable glue,, soak or-\ndinary glue in water until it softens, and re-\nmove it before it has lost its primitive form.\nAfter this, dissolve it in linseed oil over a slow\nfire until it is brought to the consistence of a\njelly. This glue may be used for joining any\nkinds of material. In addition to strength and\nhardness, it has the advantage of resisting the\naction of water.— Revue Industrielle.\n4. Fire and Waterproof Glue.— Mix a hand-\nful of quicklime with 4 oz. of Unseed oil thoi*-\noughly lixiviate the mixture. Boil until quite\nthick, and spread on tin plates. It will become\nvery hard, but can be dissolved over a fire like\ncommon glue.\n5. Cheap Waterproof Glue.— Melt common\nglue with the smallest quantity of water pos-\nsible. Add to this by degrees, linseed oil, ren-\ndered drying by boiling it with litharge. While\nthe oil is added the ingredients must be well\nstirred, so as to mix them thoroughly.\nWhite Glue.— A writer in the Moniteur Scien-\ntifique says that to add oxalic acid and white\noxide of zinc in the proportion of 1% to glue\ngives a whiter and clearer product than any of\nthe measures now in use. The glue should first\nbe reduced with water and heated to a thick\nsirup, and the chemicals added while the mass\nis hot.\nWood, Glue for (Waterproof).— 1. Very thick\nsolution of glue, 100 parts; Unseed oil varnish,\n50 parts; and 10 parts of litharge. Boil for ten\nminutes and use while hot.\n2. There is no glue for wood which must be\nkept in contact with water that is better than","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0260.jp2"},"257":{"fulltext":"Glycerine.\n245\nGold.\nbichromated glue. Allow it to harden thor-\noughly.\n3. Liquid glue tor wood and iron is made, ac-\ncording to Hesz, as follows Clear gelatine. 100\nparts; cabinetmaker s glue, 100 parts; alcohol,\n25 parts; alum, 2 parts; the whole mixed with\n200 parts of 20$ acetic acid and heated in a water\nbath for six hours.\n4. An ordinary glue for wood and iron is\nmade by boiling together for several hours 100\nparts glue, 260 parts water and 16 parts nitric\nacid.\n5. Waterproof glue may be made by boiling 1\nlb. of common glue in 2 qt. of skimmed milk.\nThis withstands the action of the weather.\n6. Glue, 12 parts; water, q. s. to dissolve. Add\nyellow resin, 3 parts; and, when melted, tur-\npentine, 4 parts. Mix thoroughly together in a\nwater bath.\n7. Glue which Stands Moisture Without Soft-\nening.— Dissolve in 8 fl. oz. of strong methylated\nspirit, }4 oz. each of sandarac and mastic; next\nadd y% oz. of turpentine. This solution is then\nadded to a hot, thick solution of glue, to which\nisinglass has been added, and is next filtered\nwhile hot through cloth or a sieve.\nWounds, Glue Dressing for.— Cabinetmakers\nand wood workers generally are familiar with\nthe uses of glue in dressing tool cuts and other\nslight wounds incident to their calling. The\naddition of acetic acid to the glue and a little\notto of roses will cover the odor of the glue\nand the acid. This compound spread on paper\nor muslin makes, he says, a good substitute for\nadhesive plaster for surgical use. It is easily\nand quickly prepared simply by putting into a\nvessel of boiling water a bottle containing 1\npart of glue to 4 parts by measure of the acid,\nand letting the bottle remain in this bath until\nthe glue is fully dissolved and mixed with the\nacid. Common glue may be used and officinal\nacetic acid, to be had at any drug store. The\nmixture should be kept in a wide mouthed\nbottle well stoppered by a long cork, which can\nalways be removed by heating the neck of the\nbottle. Care should be taken to keep the\nmouth of the bottle clean by wiping it well\nwith a cloth dipped in hot water. A bottle of\nthis cheap and easily prepared dressing would\nbe a good thing to have at home as well as at\nthe workshop.\nGlycerine of Cucuniber.\nWhite castile soap oz.\nPommade de concombre 1 oz.\nRose water... 30 fl. oz.\nGlycerine 2 fl. oz.\nCut up the soap small and dissolve it in about 4\noz. of the water. Melt the pomade and put it in a\nloot mortar. Gradually add the hot soap so-\nlution, stirring until thoroughly mixed, then\nslowly add the rest of the rose water mixed\nwith the glycerine. Keep well stirred until\ncool, then let stand for some hours, stirring\noccasionally. Properly manipulated, a perfect\nemulsion is obtained. When completed it may\nbe perfumed as desired. The soap employed\nshould be of good quality.— Drug, and Chem.\nGlycerine.— Paste. See Pastes.\nSolvent Powers of Glycerine.— According to\nKlever, 100 parts glycerine will dissolve-\nParts.\nAcid arsenious 20*00\nAcid arsenic 20*00\nAcid benzoic. 10 to 20*00\nAcid boracic lO OO\nAcid oxalic. 15*00\nAcid tannic 50*00\nAlum 40*00\nAmmonia carbonate 20*00\nAmmonia muriate 20*00\nAntimony tartrate 5*50\nAtropine 3*00\nAtropine sulphate 3300\nBarium chloride 10*00\nBorax 60*00\nParts.\nBrucine i i 4 1 4 4 un. 2*25\nCinchona 0*50\nCinchona sulphate. 6*70\nCopper acetate 10*00\nCopper sulphate 30*00\nIron lactate 16*00\nIron sulphate 25*00\nIodine 1*90\nLead acetate 2000\nMercury bichloride. 7*50\nMercury bicyanide 27*00\nMercury arseniate 50*00\nPotash chlorate 3*50\nPotash and iron tartrate 8*00\nPotassium bromide. 2500\nPotassium cyanide 32*00\nPotassium iodide 40*00\nMorphine 0*45\nMorphine acetate 20*00\nMorphine muriate....... 20*00\nSoda arseniate 50*00\nSoda bicarbonate. 8*00\nSoda carbonate 98*00\nPhosphorus 0*20\nSulphur 0*10\nStrychnine 4*00\nStrychnine nitrate 0*25\nStrychnine sulphate 22*40\nVeratrine 1*00\nZinc chloride. 50*00\nZinc iodide. 40*00\nZinc sulphate 35*00\nGlycerine is particularly valuable as a solvent\nfor gum arabic, as also in paste. Glue, by con-\ntinued digestion, is soluble in glycerine, gela-\ntinizing on cooling.\nGlycerine, to Test. Pure glycerine may be\ntested as follows When treated slowly with\nsulphuric acid if should not turn brown, with\nnitric acid and nitrate of silver it should not\nbecome cloudy, and when rubbed between the\nfingers it does not emit a fatty smell.\nGnats, to Prevent the Attack of.— The\nbest preventive against gnats, as well as the\nbest cure for their stings, is camphor.\nGoatskin, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nGold. See Alloys.\nGold. See Gilding.\nGold, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nGold Colors\nYellow gold, gold, 24 parts.\nRed gold, gold, 18 parts, copper, 6 parts.\nGreen gold, gold, 18 pans,- silver, 6 parts.\nBlue gold, gold, 18 parts, iron, 6 parts.\nWhite gold, gold, 12 parts, silver, 12 parts.\nGold Iiace, to Remove Mildew from.\nSee Cleansing. Mildew.\nGold and Silver, Printing in. 1. Roll\nthe type with gold size or best pale printer s\nvarnish; dust on the impression the required\ncolor, in powder, let dry, and brush off super-\nfluous powder with a ball of cotton wool, a\nhare s foot, or a soft brush.\n2. If a deep rich gold is wanted use a yellow\nor orange ink instead of varnish, and similarly\nfor very fine work in color, grind up the re-\nquired color in varnish, print with that, and\nthen dust on some of the same powder. You\ncan get almost any shade of metallic powder\nin crimson, green, silver, or deep or light gold.\nGold, to Test the Purity of.— An as-\nsay or analysis is the only good method. Gold\nshould dissolve in a mixture of 1 part nitric\nwith three parts hydrochloric acid. A residue\nindicates silver. If sulphuric acid is added to\nthe solution, a precipitate indicates lead. One\nquick method is to determine its specific grav-\nity. Silver may be dissolved in nitric acid. It\nshould, with excess of ammonia, give a color-\nless, clear solution. Sulphuric acid may be\nused to test for lead.\nGold, Solution of.— Put 40dwt. of aqua\nregia in a small bottle, to which add 5 dwt. of","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0261.jp2"},"258":{"fulltext":"Gold.\n246\nGraining.\ngrain gold, the solution will immediately com-\nmence, and may be observed by the efferves-\ncence which arises at the time; when the solu-\ntion is complete, the whole of the gold will be\ndissolved, which will be accomplished in about\ntwo hours if the acids be genuine, but when\nthey are not, it will be requisite to apply heat\nto assist in facilitating the solution.\nGold Solder. See Soldering.\nGold, Toughening of.— The most effec-\ntual process yet discovered to toughen brittle\n--gold is by simply passing chlorine through the\nmolten metal. By this method a saving of one\nhalf in the amount of gold usually set aside as\nunfit lor working has been effected.\nGonlard 9 s Water. See Waters.\nGovernment W hitewash. See\nWhitewashes.\nGrafting Compost.— Clay tempered with\nwater, to which a little linseed oil is sometimes\nadded. Used to cover the joint lormed by the\nscion and stock in grafting.\nGrafting Wax. See Waxes,\nGraining.— This branch of the painter s art\nconsists in imitating the grain, knots, etc., of\ndifferent woods. The following is an outline of\nthe process: If there are any knots or sappy\nplaces in the article, they should be covered\nwith one or two coats of glue size or parchment\nsize, to prevent them showing through. The\nwork is then ready for the paint, three differ-\nent shades being necessary. These are called\nthe ground color, the stippling color, and the\ngraining or oil color, and they are laid in the\norder named. An infinite number of combi-\nnations of colors is possible, obtained by the\nuse of various coloring pigments in the differ-\nent coats, and no two grainers agree as to the\nprecise proportion of the ingredients to be\nused in imitating different woods; the learner\ncan vary the proportions to suit his taste, as\nexperience dictates, and to suit the work in\nhand. The ground color is used to represent\nthe lightest part of the grain of the wood, the\nstippling color the intermediate shades, and the\ngraining color the darkest parts; a close study\nof natural woods will, therefore, be necessary\nto determine the color and depth of each. The\nproper ground being selected, apply one or\nmore coats— as many as are necessary to thor-\noughly cover the surface. As soon as the\nground color is hard the stippling coat may be\napplied. This is prepared by mixing the dry\npigments without oil, with either very thin gum\nwater, stale beer, or vinegar containing a small\nportion of dissolved fish glue. The pigments to\nbe used are usually about the same as those\nused for the ground color, but of different\nproportions, to produce a deeper shade. Apply\nthe stippling color and before it dries beat it\nsoftly with the side of the stippler, the long\nelastic hairs of which, disturbing the surface of\nthe laid coat, cause the lighter coat beneath to\nbecome indistinctly visible, and produce *the\neffect of the pores of wood. Next apply the\ngraining color; as soon as it is laid, take the rub-\nber, and with it wipe out the larger veins to be\nshown, after each stroke wiping the paint from\nthe rubber with a cloth, held in the other hand\nfor that purpose. Some grainers use a small\n^ponge for veining, and others a small piece of\ncloth over the thumb, but the rubber is prob-\nably the most convenient. When the veins\nhave been put in, to imitate as closely as possi-\nble the markings of natural wood, the various\nsteel combs are brought into use, and the edges\nof the veins, and sometimes other portions of\nthe work, combed with them to soften the ab-\nrupt transition from the dark to lighter shades.\nThe blender is also now brought into use, and\nwherever the work may require it, the colors\nare still more softened and blended by its soft\nhairs. When too much color has been removed\nin veining, or when a certain figure, such as a\nknot, is required, the work is touched up with a\nfine brush and again softened with the blender.\nWhen dry, a coat of transparent varnish should\nbe applied, having considerable oil to render it\ndurable, as grained work is frequently washed.\nReady made graining colors are recommended\nas best and cheapest.\nColors.— In ground colors the essential condi-\ntion is to have them light enough; the same\ntint will do lor ash, chestnut, maple, light oak\nand satin wood, but a deeper tone is needed for\nblack walnut. The most important point is to\nhave the ground smooth and uniform. Grain-\ning colors should be chosen from the very best\nqualities of umber, sienna and Vandyke brown,\naccording to the demands of the work.\nTools.— The implements employed by the\ngrainer comprise, in addition to the ordinary\npainters tools (a dusting brush and 2 or 3\nflat fitches) for applying the graining colors to\nthe groundwork, a badger hair blending brush\nor softener, a set of combs,overgraining brushes\nsuited for maple and oak, and a camel s hair\ncutting brush for maple. You may add a large\ncotton rag, a sponge, a lining tool, a veining\nhorn, and combing and graining rollers. The\ncombs may be of steel or leather. A set of\nsteel combs contains three of each size 1-in.\nwide, 2-in.,3-in. and 4-in., of fine, medium and\ncoarse teeth. A cloth put round a steel comb\nis often substituted for a leather comb.\nStyles of Graining.— The various styles of\ngraining differ according to the kind of wood\nwhich it is intended to imitate. These may be\nconsidered in alphabetic order, premising that\nas oak is the wood most commonly copied, the\nfullest details will be found under that head.\nAsh.— Ash graining differs from light oak al-\nmost solely in the absence of the dapples found\nin the commoner wood. The ground color is pre-\npared in the same way, and the same system of\ncombing and wiping is followed. Excellent\nash graining color can generally be purchased\nto greater advantage than it can be made up.\nChestnut.— It is difficult to get the ground\ncolor for chestnut sufficiently yellow; the best\ncomposition is white lead, yellow ocher and\norange chrome. The graining color is com-\nposed of burnt umber with small quantities of\nburnt sienna and Vandyke brown. The oper-\nations followed resemble those with oak, a\ncoarse comb being used.\nMahogany. This wood demands a bright\nground color, which may be obtained by using\ndeep orange chrome yellow and royal red, or\nvermilion, or orange mineral. Burnt sienna\nwith a little Vandyke brown constitute the\ngraining color. The style of grain varies.\nGenerally in panels crotching is resorted to.\nThe cutter is used to take out the lights; and\nthe fine lines are put in with the over grainer,\nused almost in its normal condition, without\nbeing broken up into teeth, the lines running\nin a wavy pattern across the panel, like an\ninverted letter V. On the stiles and rails of the\ndoor, the blender is drawn over the fresh\ngraining color in a series of jerky strokes 3 or\n4 in. long. When the first distemper color is\ndry, a very thin coat of quick rubbing varnish\nis put on; this should be dry in a day or so,\nwhen a glazing color of the same composition\nas the original graining coat is rubbed in, and\nstippled with the blender. A finishing coat of\nhard drying coach body varnish is flowed on\nwith a thick badger brush.\nMaple.— This is imitated in water colors or dis-\ntemper on a very smooth ground, using a white\ncontaining the smallest possible additon of raw\nsienna for the ground color, and raw sienna\nmixed with a little Vandyke brown and burnt\nsienna for the graining color. Fine sandpaper\nis employed for smoothing the ground, and the\ngraining color is applied in very small quantity\nto a patch at a time. The best way of taking\nout the lights is by means of the cutter already\nmentioned, drawn lengthwise over the work;\nblending follows in a crosswise direction. The\novergrain color is applied by a piped tool in","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0262.jp2"},"259":{"fulltext":"Graining.\n247\nGraining.\nwhich the pencils are separated, this being\ndrawn longitudinally in an undulating man-\nner. Putting in the birds eyes may be done\nby patting the wet work with the finger tips,\nor by a piece of cloth rolled into a point.\nOak, light.— The best ground color is white\nlead tinted with raw sienna or golden ocher.\nThis is preserved in a covered vessel, and\nsufficient only taken out to cover the area\nimmediately wanted. This need be but a very\nsmall quantity; it is thinned before use by add-\ning oil and turpentine and just enough boiled\noil to delay the drying, so that the glazing coat\ncan be applied on the following day. To hasten\nthe drying, a little japan size or drier is added.\nInstead of completing small sections of work,\nit is better to prepare a large surface with\nground color, so that it may commence to set\nbefore wiping out. This wiping out must pre-\ncede the combing on veins and sap wood, but\nfollow it on dapples.\nThe complete mode of precedure for light\noak graining a panel door is as follows: Apply\nthe ground color; when dry, smooth the sur-\nface with fine sandpaper. Rub in the graining\ncolor uniformly with a medium stiff sash\nbrush; and stipple the beads, corners and\nmouldings with a dry brush. Commence\non the panels, and make opposite ones cor-\nrespond; wipe out in streaks lengthwise with\na cotton cloth, and then go over with combs of\nprogressive fineness. Take out the lights to\nshow the dapples, either by the veining horn\nor by a cotton cloth wrapped around the\nthumb. Next comb the mouldings plainly.\nThe most work is usually put on the rails and\nstiles; begin with the middle stiles, and finish\nthem before proceeding to the rails, which may\nbe done all together. On the sap wood or\nveined work, use the coarse comb as much as\npossible, and the wiping rag as little, remem-\nbering that here the wiping out precedes the\ncombing. Allow the work to dry, rub down\nslightly with fine worn sandpaper, and apply\nthe glazing coat. This is best ground up\nin water, the colors being a combination of\nraw and burnt sienna and Vandyke brown,\nmixed very thin, and used in very small quan-\ntity.\nThe tone may be varied to correct the ap-\npearance of the under coat; and as some parts\nof the work will require it thinner than others,\nit is well to have the color on a palette, and\nthin it to requirements by wettiog the brush.\nRub in the glazing color with a stiff brush, and\nremove any streaks by softening with a blender.\nDeal with only one panel at a time, or the\nglazing will dry ahead of you. Put in the top\ngrain with an overgrainer dipped into thin\ncolor and then parted into a series of pencils\nby passing the comb through it; draw it length-\nwise with a light hand, and soften down the\nresult with a blender. Remember that the\npanels should be the lightest colored portion\nof the door, and the mouldings the darkest,\nwhile the rails and stiles occupy an interme-\ndiate place in this respect.\nTo grain light work in distemper, which is not\noften done, proceed as follows Lay on a coat\nof size and whiting then a ground color con-\nsisting of white lead and golden ocher, mixed\nwith fine boiled oil when this has dried (say in\ntwo days), add the graining color, consisting of\nraw and burnt sienna and Vandyke brown,\nground in water and mixed with the same\nquantity of smooth, flour paste; thin this\ndown with water, brush it on and comb one\nportion and have*the other stippled by the\nwhitewash brush to afford contrast; when\nall is dry, apply a heavy flowing coat of elastic\nvarnish.\nOak, Dark.— This differs from light oak grain-\ning only in the colors. The ground color may\nbe composed of white lead, royal red and golden\nocher or chrome orange. The graining color\nhas the same constituents as for light oak, only\nin other proportions.\nRosewood.— For rosewood graining, the\nground is rubbed in with crimson vermilion,\nthen smoothed and glazed with a coat of crim-\nson lake or rose pink before putting in the\ngrain. This is done wiih best ivory black,\nwhich can be bought ground in quick-drying\nvehicles and needs letting down with raw lin-\nseed oil. The graining coat is blended with the\nbadger hair pencil as fast as it is laid on. When\nquite dry, a very thin glazing coat of black is\nadded.\nSatin wood.— This is grained in distemper,\nusing the same ground and graining colors as\nfor bird s eye maple, taking out the lights with\na cutter and putting on the overgrain as in\nmahogany.\nWalnut.— The ground color may consist of\nwhite lead, golden ocher, black and royal red,\nwithout fear of making it too bright. The\ngraining color should be preceded by a coat of\ndeep black and Vandyke brown ground in\nwater and before it has set this is stippled by\ndabbing with a dry bristle brush. On this is\nlaid the walnut oil graining color, procurable\nat the shops, previously thinned with turpen-\ntine and boiled oil. When the graining coat\nhas partially set, the veins and figures are put\nin preferably with a fine hair pencil, and soft-\nened with the blender. This last having dried,\nsay in a day or two, a glazing coat of deep\nblack and Vandyke brown is put on and fin-\nished as in light oak.\nHints.— To prevent a graining coat from\nJcissing at a water color overgraining coat,\nthat is repelling the water by antagonism of the\noil, rub the grain with a sponge dipped into a\nthin paste of fuller s earth or whiting, which\nwill prepare an absorbent surface for the water\ncolor.\nThe two kinds of graining, distinguished as\ndistemper graining and oil graining, differ in\nthe following respects. In distemper graining,\nthe older branch of the art, the colors are\nthinned with stale beer, size, etc., and the var-\nnishing coat can be added quickly; it is best\nadapted to hard closegrained woods. In oil\ngraining, the colors are thinned with raw or\nboiled linseed oil, turpentine, etc., and are\nbetter suited to the soft, coarse grained woods.\nMarbling— The decoration of painted sur-\nfaces so as to imitate natural marbles bears a\nclose relation to graining in imitation of woods.\nIt varies according to the figure of the marble\nsimulated, the principal kinds being as follows:\nBlack and Gold. The ground color is black,\nlaid on very smooth, and slightly oiled; the\nmarble color will be composed of white, ocher,\norange chrome, Indian red, and black, in vary-\ning proportions. The marble color is rubbed\nin in disconnected irregular patches by a large\npencil, fine irregular lines being added, both\nconnecting the patches and crossing the general\ndirection. An overgraining of dark and light\nlead color may occupy the spaces between the\nfine lines and a glazing of white touches will\nhelp to develop the patches.\nBlack Bardilla. Use light lead color as a\nground, and put in a confused mass of fine\nlines in black by the aid of a feather soften\nwith a badger blender, and when dry glaze\nwith thin white of unequal strength.\nDerbyshire Spar.— Use light gray for a ground\ncolor, and glaze it with a thin mixture of black\nand Vandyke brown, with a little Indian red at\nintervals. To simulate the fossils use a stick\nwith a piece of rag round it, then glaze with\nthe same colors, and bring out the fossils by\nsolid white and edging with fine black.\nDove.— The ground color is a bluish red. Put\nin streaks of black and white (ground in oil)\nalternately by dipping a feather into turpen-\ntine and then into the color; soften with a\nblender, add a few white touches, and soften\nagain.\nEgyptian Green.— The ground color is black.\nGlaze over this with a very dark green from\nPrussian blue and chrome yellow with a sash","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0263.jp2"},"260":{"fulltext":"Granite.\n248\nGrindstones.\ntool on this streak with a lighter green on a\nleather, with a little Indian red interspersed,\nall in one direction; cross this with curling\nstreaks of thin white, blend well, allow to dry,\nglaze with Italian pink and Antwerp blue,\nbring up the light streaks with touches of\nwhite, and finally blend again.\nGranites.— The chief varieties are gray and\nred (Aberdeen). Rub in the ground color of\nlight gray for the former, or salmon tint for\nthe latter. The marbling colors will be thin\nblack for the former and black, red and white\nfor the latter. These colors are put on in dots\nand splashes, either by stippling with a coarse\nsponge dipped in the color, or by springing the\ncolor from a short, stiff, broad brush.\nItalian Jasper. Oil a ground of light green\ndrab; rub in subcircular patches of a mixture\nof Victoria lake and Indian red between these\nput in, with a feather dipped in turpentine,\nsuccessive tints of olive green (white, raw\nsienna and blue black) and gray (white, Prus-\nsian blue and ivory black), blending well. The\nolive and gray tints are glazed with white, and\nthe dark with crimson lake and a final touch-\ning up is given with very thin white on a\nfeather.\nRoyal Red.— On an oiled ground of bluish\ngray, rub in a mixture of ocher and Indian red.\nCover part of the work with a rich brown\nmade from ivory black and Indian red, and\nscatter patches of black about by a paper pad\ndipped into the color. Repeat the patching\nwith light blue and with white then wipe out\na few irregular lines so as to show up the gray\nground color. Finally, glaze partially with\nblack and Indian red.\nSt. Ann s. Resembles black and gold, the\nground being black, the veins white and the\nspaces lead color the colored patches are less\nin size and more numerous.\nSienna.— The ground color is buff, made with\nocher. The various marbling tints are made\nfrom the following ingredients A mixture of\nIndian red and ivory black for dark veins, with\na few varying shades by the addition of white\na selection of graduated tints from white,\nIndian red and Prussian blue. The glaze is\nmade from raw sienna and ocher, with a trace\nof crimson lake at intervals. First put in the\nbuff ground, and on this a pronounced irregu-\nlar vein across the work of the first marbling\ncolor, applied on a feather dipped in turpen-\ntine lead a few veinlets from the main vein,\nand put in others with the second marbling\ncolor, also on a turpentined feather; soften\nwith a badger blender on the dry surface rub\na little linseed oil with a silk rag touch up\nwith thin white on a feather soften as before;\nadd the glaze color and touch up the main vein\nwith ivory black on a pencil.\nVerd Antique.— Cover an oiled black ground\nwith dark green made from chrome yellow and\nPrussian blue; add with a feather patches of\nlighter green, with occasionally a little Indian\nred, interspersed with irregular blotches of\nblack and white; on the dry surface put a\ngreen glazing coat of Italian pink and Ant-\nwerp green; again touch up the whites, and\ngive them a fine black margin.\nGranite, Gilding on. See Gilding.\nGranulation. 1. In metals the metal is\nfused and poured into cold water, when the\nmetal becomes finely divided, taking on a spher-\nical shape. Shot is made in this way.\n2. In pharmacy, etc., the process is called\ngranulation when the liquid to be converted\nwholly into a solid is concentrated until it is\nof a sirupy consistency, then removed from\nthe fire, and stirred until the mass is cooled\ninto granules. Sugar is a good example of the\nprocess.\nGrape Wines, See Wines.\nGrass, to Crystallize.— Dry the leaves,\nsteep in a strong solution of alum for a few\nminutes, and dry again.\nGrass« to Kill.— To kill blue grass growing\nbetween bricks around the lawn, wash the bricks\nwith salt water or strong solution of soda.\nGravity, Specific. -To Convert Degrees\nBaume into Specific Gravity.— 1. For liquids\nheavier than water.— Subtract the degree of\nBaume from 145, and divide into 145. The quo-\ntient is the specific gravity.\n2. For liquids lighter than water.— Add the\ndegree of Baume to 130, and divide it into 140.\nThe quotient is the specific gravity.\nTo Convert Specific Gravity into Degrees\n(Baume).— 1. For liquids heavier than water.\nDivide the specific gravity into 145, and subtract\nfrom 145. The remainder is the degree of\nBaume.\n2. For liquids lighter than water.— Divide the\nspecific gravity into 140, and subtract 130 from\nthe quotient. The remainder will be the degree\nof Baume.\nComparison of Degrees Twaddell and Specific\nGravity. —In order to change degrees Twaddell\ninto specific gravity, multiply by 5, add 1,000,\nand divide by 1,000.\nExample.— Change 168° Twaddell into specific\ngravity.\n168x5\n840\n1,000\n1,000)1,840\n1*84, specific gravity.\nTo change specific gravity into degrees Twad-\ndell, multiply by 1,000, subtract 1,000, and divide\nby 5.\nExample.— Change 1*84 specific gravity to\ndegrees Twaddell.\n1-84 x 1,000\n1,840\n1000\n5)840\n168° Tw.\nGraying of Iron and Steel.— By dipping\nor sprinkling with dilute nitric acid alter neat-\ning until blue.\nGrease, Anti-friction. See I*ufori~\ncants.\nGrease, to Remove, See Cleansing.\nGreenhouses, Floor and Pipes of.\nCover your floor with a thin layer of hydraulic\nHme or cement. Paint your pipes with a cov-\nering of asphaltum varnish, made by dissolving\nasphaltum in turpentine by a gentle heat.\nGreen Pigments. See Pigments.\nGreek Fire. The exact composition is un-\nknown. It is supposed by some to have been\nnaphtha, by others a mixture of niter, asphalt\nand sulphur.\nGrindstones, Artificial. Artificial\ngrindstones have been made at Worms,\nGermany, of grit, soluble glass and petro-\nleum. It is said that they will bear a very\nhigh speed without becoming soft. Washed\nsilicious sand, 3 parts; shellac, 1 part; melt the\nlac and mould in the sand while warm. Emery\nmay be substituted for sand. Used for razors\nand fine cutlery.\nGrindstones, to Hang.— It requires a\npretty fair mechanic to hang a grindstone to\nrun true and stay true. It is supposed that\nyou have no flanges upon the axle. The hole\nshould be at least or in. larger than the\naxle, and both axle and hole square; then make\ndouble wedges for each of the four sides of the\nsquare, all alike and thin enough, so that one\nwedge from each side will reach clear through\nthe hole. Drive the wedges from each side. If the","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0264.jp2"},"261":{"fulltext":"Grindstones.\n349\nGums,\nhole through the stone is true the wedges will\ntighten the stone true; if the hole is not at\nright angles to the plane of the stone it must\nbe made so, or the wedge corresponding must\nbe altered in the taper to meet the irregularity\nin the hole.\nGrindstones, to True.— Drive at a mod-\nerate speed and true up with a rod of Vk in. or\nin. iron, or better, a piece of tube. To use it,\nkeep turning the rod or tube, which should be\nheld nearly at right angles, and turns as the\nedge grinds away. By thus turning it round a\nnew edge is formed all the time that the stone\nis turned off true. The stone should be dry,\nnot wet. Do not attempt to perform such an\noperation close to a lathe or other machine\nwithout thoroughly covering them up, as the\ndust flies everywhere and will cause serious\ndamage.\nGrinding- and Polishing, etc., Speeds\nfor.—\nSpeed of Ft. per min.\nLarge grindstones for polishing 2,000\nEmery disks 2,500 to 8000\nPolishing large articles 750\nTool grinders 650\nCircular saws for hot iron 20,000\nDisintegrators 10,000\nPlate-bending rolls 4\nMillstones 17,000\nSack tackle 50\nGrounds for Etchings. See Etching.\nGround Glass. See Glass.\nGround Glass, Varnish for. See Var-\nnishes.\nGrout. Mortar reduced to a thin paste\nwith water, used to fill up the joints of masonry\nand brick work. A finer kind is used to finish\noff the best ceilings.\nGuaiacum.— A resinous exudation of a tree\nof Jamaica, 90$ soluble in absolute alcohol.\nArtificial Guano.— Dry sulphate of soda\n(Glauber salts), 5}4 lb.; wood ashes, 11 lb.; com-\nmon salt, 42 lb.; crude sulphate of ammonia, 56\nlb.; bone dust, 3} bushels.\nGum, Chewing.— Take of balsam tolu\n4 oz., white resin 16 oz., sheep suet 13^ oz., more\nor less, and melt together. Of above mixture\ntake 2 oz.; white sugar, 1 oz.; oatmeal 3 oz.\nSoften and mix on a water bath. Roll the\npieces in finely powdered sugar or flour to form\nsticks, etc., as desired. Paraffin with a little\nolive oil and glycerine may be melted together\nfor a chewing gum. The exact mixture will\nvary with the season, etc.\nGum Paste. See Pastes.\nStarch, Gum.— Dissolve 4 oz. of the purest\ngum arabic in 1 qt. hot water, set away in a\nbottle, tightly corked. A splendid preparation\nfor starching silks.\nGums. See also Resins and Balsams.—\nThe distinctions between gums, resins and\nbalsams may be briefly tabulated as follows\nResim are the inspissated or thickened juices\nof plants. They are generally mixed with an\nessential oil, are insoluble in water, but are\nsoluble enough in either alcohol or the essential\noils. Their general characters are inflamma-\nbility ahd fusibility. Their ultimate compo-\nnents are carbon, oxygen and hydrogen.\nGums are soluble in water, but are insoluble\nin alcohol.\nBalsams or gum resins contain a quantity of\ngum, are partly soluble in water, partly so in\nalcohol, or in other words, they take both alco-\nhol and water to perfectly dissolve them.\nGum arabic is yielded by several species of\nacacia. It is quite soluble in water, but insol-\nuble in alcohol, ether and oils. It forms an\nacid solution, as permalate of lime is present.\nSeveral of the metallic oxides combine with it.\nIt is very nutritious, so much so that the Arabs\nwho gather it nearly live upon it during har-\nvest time. We import it from the Levant,\nBarbary, Senegal, Cape of Good Hope, India,\nCairo, etc.\nGum Bassora.— Gum is almost insoluble in\nwater. Comes from Bassora. Gum Turkey,\nvariety of gum arabic.\nGum sen gal, the product of acacia Senegal.\nThis is the best kind of Arabian gum. It is\nmuch more clear than gum arabic, sometimes\nentirely white, in drops as large as a pigeon s\negg. Its principal use is in the manufacture of\nsilks, muslins, crapes, etc., to give them the\nrequisite amount of stiffness and glaze. It is.\nalso mixed with the colors in calico print-\ning to give them solidity.\nGum tragacanth or gum dragon. This is ob-\ntained from Astralagus tragacantha. In ap-\npearance it resembles twisted ribbons, of a\nbrownish white color, opaque and rather duc-\ntile. When pulverized in a mortar it is of a\nwhite color. The operation of pulverizing is a\ndifficult one, and. should be performed in a hot\nmortar, the gum having been previously heated\nto 212° F. This gum has a remarkable power of\nconsistence, a small piece swelling up to\nmany times its own size. It has not, how-\never, such a strong power of adhesiveness\nas gum arabic, but if equal parts of the two\nbe mixed together it forms a nice white gum,\nvery suitable for fastening plants to paper,\nand other natural history work. The tree is it-\nself a native of Crete.\nGum Sandarac.— The product of Callitris\nquadrivalvis is a native of Barbary. This gum\nis chiefly used in the manufacture of var-\nnishes, for which it is peculiarly adapted. The\nTurks employ the wood in the construction of\ntheir mosques, it being very tough and pos-\nsessing great lasting qualities. Importation\nabout fifteen tons per anuum.\nGum Seed.— A soluble gum obtained from the\nquince, flax, etc.\nBarbary Gum. A very dark looking kind\nproduced by the Acacia gummifera. in the\nmanufacture of lozenges and confectionery it\nhas valuable qualities. It calls for no special\ncomment. We import it from the Morocco\ncoast.\nGum Gedda.—An anterior quality of the fore-\ngoing. Reddish color.\nCanada Balsam.— This is supplied by the\nAbies balsamifera. It is contained in blisters\nin the bark. The blisters are punctured, and\nthe balsam is collected as it exudes. This is a\nmost useful substance, being in great demand\nin a number of manufactures, etc. It is used\nin cementing lenses together. In microscopy\ncomment is needless, but besides being an ex-\ncellent preservative, it gives great transpar-\nency to the obieci\nCherry Tree Gum.— Partially soluble in water.\nGuaiacum.— This resin exudes from the Gua-\niacum officinale, a native of Jamaica and the\nsurrounding islands. A piece of paper treated\nwith a tincture of guaiacum takes on a green\ntint under the violet rays, when exposed to the\nprismatic spectrum, through oxidation. Red\nrays destroy the color. Solubility, 90$ in abso-\nlute alcohol. Lignum vitae, the hardest and\nheaviest wood known, and which sinks on\nbeing placed in water, is the timber of this tree.\nCopal. —This is the product of several legu-\nminous plants in Africa, East Indies, South\nAmerica, and Australia. It is generally seen in\nlarge angular lumps, often as large as a hen s\negg, of a bright yellow color, and very trans-\nparent. The African variety is of a darker\ncolor, and not so transparent; its surface\nappeal s dusty. The Australian is the largest.\nThat from the East Indies is the product of\nHymenaea courbaril. In lumps sometimes\nnearly square and generally covered all over\nwith slight indentations. It is known as gum\nanime. Chiefly used for fine varnishes.\nGum Mastic— The product of Pistacia lentis-\ncus. In small ovoid and round tears about the","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0265.jp2"},"262":{"fulltext":"Gums. 250\nsize of a pea and rather flattened. The tree is\na native of Chio and Northern Africa. To ob-\ntain the resin the bark is cut transversely,\nafter which the mastic exudes in small drops\nand either hardens on the bark or falls to the\nground; that which falls to the ground is the\ninferior quality. It has a fragrant smell, and\nis much used by the Turkish ladies in their\ntoilet. A fine varnish is made from it. Den-\ntists also use it for stopping hollow teeth.\nAbout ten or twelve tons are imported annu-\nally, mostly from the Levant.\nGum Dam mar.— This is a light colored sub-\nstance which is obtained from the Pinus dam-\nmara, native in India, from whence it is ex-\nported. It is very useful in making varnishes,\nespecially photographic. It is soluble in ben-\nzole, only partly so in alcohol, and is used\nsometimes as a substitute for Canada balsam.\nGum Gamboge. A product of Hedradendron\ngambogioides, native on the Malabar coast and\nin Ceylon. It is a gum resin, and is obtained\nby puncturing the bark of the tree when the\nflowers begin to appear. We know it best by\nits appearance in amorphous masses, but it\nalso takes the form of hollow rolls and solid\ncylinders. The best hollow rolls come from\nSiam. From this gum the beautiful yellow\ncolor of gamboge is manufactured.\nGutta Percha. The inspissated juice of Iso-\nnandra gutta. When freshly gathered it is\nrough, dry, slightly soluble and very inflam-\nmable. To render it fit for usp it is immersed\nin boiling water; this softens it and makes it\ncapable of being moulded into any shape,\nwhich it retains when cold.\nThe juice is found between the bark and the\nwood. Its uses are too numerous to specify,\nmany being well known.\nCaoutchouc. India rubber is the product of\nmany euphorbiaceous plants. We get most\nof it from the Brazils and Central America.\nIn Brazil it is obtained from the Siphonia elas-\ntica, which grows to a height of between fifty\nto sixty feet, and in Central America it is ob-\ntained from Castilloa elastica. Most of that\nwe now use comes from Central America,\nwhere the juice is simply collected into cups,\nfrom incisions made in the bark. To coagulate\nthe milky juice and convert it into rubber fit\nfor exportation, the juice of a vine called\nachuca is mixed with it, and so powerful is its\naction that five or six minutes is sufficient to\nproduce coagulation. The Brazilian method\nslightly differs. The juice is first collected in\nclay bowls, it is then smeared over various\nshaped moulds, made also in clay and taking\nthe form of bottles, balls, spindles, etc. Suc-\ncessive coats are laid on, each one having pre-\nviously been allowed to thoroughly dry, either\nin the sun or the smoke of a fire, which black-\nens it. When a sufficient thickness is obtained,\nthe clay is washed out, leaving the India rub-\nber ready for exportation. The trees yield\ntwenty or thirty gallons of juice, and, when\nwe consider that each gallon will produce two\npounds of market India rubber, the harvest is\nnot so bad. Other trees producing caoutchouc\nare Siphonia brasiliensis, S. lutea. and S. brevi-\nfolia.\nDextrine, British gum, torrified starch. To\nproduce this gum, starch is heated until vapor\nrises; by this procedure the starch becomes\nsoluble both in cold and hot water, and all its\ngelatinous character disappears. It can also\nbe made by moistening 1,000 parts of dry starch\nwith very dilute nitric acid. It is formed in\nsmall blocks and dried in the open air, after-\nward being placed in an oven heated to 152°.\nAfter this they are pulverized and again dried\nby heat. In color dextrine is pale yellow, in-\nsoluble in alcohol, more flexible and not so\nbrittle when dry as gum. Dextrine and starch\nhave the same chemical composition, C 6 H ]0 O5.\nThe gum on the back of postage stamps is dex-\ntrine.\nGun,\nI\nGum Thus or frankincense, an odoriferous\nproduct of the Boswellia serrata. It is of\nslight use except for its odor, which the Roman\nCatholics turn to account in their churches.\nEmployed also by the ancient priests of Egypt,\nits odor destroying the foul emanations from\nthe sacrifices. It is imported from India and\nsometimes the Levant.\nAsafcetida (Narthex asafoztida).— This flows\nfrom incisions made in the root of the tree. In\ncolor it is milky white, but after it has been\ndried it takes on a pinkish tint and is curiously\nmottled. It has a most unpleasant odor. Af-\nghanistan and Persia is the home of the tree.\nIt is used medicinally as an anti-spasmodic in\ncases of asthma. Science Gossip.\nAnime.—A pale brownish yellow, transparent,\nbrittle resin, which exudes from the Hymencea\ncourbaril (Linn.), or locust tree, the H. martiana,\nand other species of Hymenaea growing in\ntropical America. It contains about 2% of vo-\nlatile oil, which gives it an agreeable odor,\nmelts without decomposition, is (nearly) in-\nsoluble in alcohol and caoutchoucine, but forms\na gelatinous mass in a mixture of the two.\nGum, Yellow.— (Botany Bay resin). This sub-\nstance is produced by an Australian tree named\nXanthorrhma hastilis. It is not a gum, but a\ngum resin, being insoluble in water, but soluble\nin alcohol. It is found in reddish brown ir-\nregular masses, partially semi-transparent and\nlustrous, and in parts dull and earthy, often\nbearing impressions of the bark of the tree.\nIt is used in making varnishes.\nGum Peru.— The root of a plant of the aspho-\ndel tribe, dried, powdered and sifted. It cannot\nbe entirely freed from woody matter, and if\nused as a thickener it fouls the rollers rapidly.\nKino. A gum resin obtained from Australia\nand India, the former kind being yielded by\nEucalyptus resinifera and the latter by Ptero-\ncarpus erinaceus. Kino is red, in small frag-\nments, but appears almost black in large\nmasses. It dissolves both in water and in alco-\nhol with a red color, but the aqueous solution\ndoes not remain clear long.\nThe subjoined table will be found useful in\ndiscriminating the various kinds of gums\nGums.\nSulphate\nof iron.\nTincture\nguaiacum.\nSubacetate\nof lead.\nGum\narabic.\nYellow\nprecipitate\nBlue\ncolor.\nWhite\ncurd.\nSenegal.\nDo.\nDo.\nDo.\nCherry.\nDo.\nDo.\nTranspar-\nent jelly.\nTraga-\ncanth.\nDo.\nNo change.\nDo.\nDextrine.\nNo pre-\ncipitate.\nTo Preserve Gum, Arabic Solutions. A few\ndrops of oil of cloves,or of alcohol, or any es-\nsential oil, will preserve a quart of the mucil-\nage of gum arabic or gum tragacanth from\nturning sour. A small quantity of dissolved\nalum will preserve flour paste.\nArtificial or British Gum. Malt, crushed\nsmafl, 1 lb.; warm water, 2 gal. Mix, heat the\nwhole to 145° F.; add of potato starch 5 lb.;\nraise the heat to 160° F., and mash for about\ntwenty-five minutes, or until the liquid be-\ncomes thin and clear; it must then be instantly\nrun off, and raised to the boiling point to pre-\nvent the formation of sugar; after boiling for\nthree or four minutes,the whole must be fil-\ntered and evaporated to dryness by a steam\nheat.\nGums, Washes for. See The Teeth.\nGun Barrels 9 to Brown. See Brown-\ning Metals. To Blue. See Bluing.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0266.jp2"},"263":{"fulltext":"Gun.\n251\nHair.\nGun Barrels, Varnish, for. See Var-\nnishes.\nGun Cotton as a Filter.— G-un cotton is\nused as a filter for solutions of strong acids,\nalkalies, etc., as it is scarcely acted on by chem-\nical agents, at ordinary temperature.\nGun Cotton. See also Pyroxyline.\nGun Cotton.— It may be prepared in small\nquantities as follows Mix 4-^ oz. of pure dry\nnitrate of potash with 30 fl. drm. sulphuric\nacid, specific gravity 1*846, and, after cooling\nthoroughly, stir into this mixture carefully\n120 grn. best carded cotton. As soon as satura-\ntion is complete, in about one minute if prop-\ner care has been used— throw the cotton into\na tubful of clean rain water, and change the\nwater repeatedly until litmus ceases to show\nthe presence of acid, then squeeze it in a cloth,\nand after being well pulled out, dry it cautious-\nly at a temperature not exceeding 140° F. It is\nnow explosive, and too much caution cannot\nbe observed in handling it.\nGun Metal. See Alloys.\nGun Metal, to Blacken. See Black-\ning Metals.\nGunpowder. See Pyrotechny.\nGunpowder— For gunpowder the materials\n(charcoal, sulphur and saltpeter) are first per-\nfectly dried and separately reduced to impalp-\nable powders. These are then sifted together,\nmoistened with water and ground for some\ntime between large millstones kept constantly\nmoist with water. The wet powder is then col-\nlected into large lumps and carefully dried.\nThese lumps are grained by bringing them in\ncontact with sharp teeth fixed upon the per-\niphery of a revolving wheel and agitating in\nsuitable sieves to separate from the finer pow-\nder. The powder consists of 76 parts of niter,\n13 parts of charcoal, and 11 parts of sulphur.\nGun Sights, Composition for. Gas\nblack, ^-arm.; methyl alcohol, 2 fl. drm.; spirit\nTarnish, 2 fl. drm.\nGutta Percha. Gutta Perclia and Caout-\nchouc, Substitute for (Sorel).— 1. Pitch, 18 parts;\n•calcium hydrate, 9 parts; gutta percha, 24\nparts.\n2. Coal tar, 18 parts; calcium hydrate, 9 parts;\ngutta percha, 24 parts. Used for manufactur-\ning waterproof articles, tubes, machine belts,\nwaterproof boots and shoes, etc. If greater\ntenacity is desired, add cotton, wool or hemp.\nGutta Percha, to Bleach. See Bleaching.\nGutta Percha, Ceme ntfor. See Cements.\nGutta Percha, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nGutta Percha Composition.\ntions.\nSee Composi-\nLiquid Gutta Percha.— This useful prepara-\ntion is to be found in the United States Phar-\nmacopoeia, and is made thus: Gutta percha in\nthin slices, 1 oz.; chloroform, 8fl. oz.; carbonate\nof lead,in fine powder, 1 oz. Add the gutta per-\ncha to 6 fl. oz. of the chlorof oi*m in a stoppered\nbottle and shake them together frequently un-\ntil the solution has been effected. Then add\nthe carbonate of lead previously mixed with\nthe remainder of the chloroform, and, having\nseveral times shaken the whole together, set\nthe mixture aside and let it remain at rest un-\ntil the insoluble matter has subsided. Lastly,\ndecant the clear liquid and keep it in a well\nstoppered bottle. One part of this solution in\n10 parts by weight of chloroform produces an\nexcellent and convenient preparation for\npainting over cuts or wounds. It readily acts\nas a styptic and protective to the wound and\ncauses neither tension nor pain. If pure iodo-\nform be added, about ten per cent., it further\nenhances the value of the styptic and can be\nused in veterinary surgery with marked success\nfor applying to cuts and abrasions, as it arrests\nhemorrhage, forms a coating over the wound\nand promotes a healthy cicatrization.\nGutta Percha, to Melt.— The gutta percha may\nbe dissolved by adding bisulphide of carbon if\nthe liquid thus obtained is poured upon glass,\nafter a short time the gutta percha maybe\nlifted in the form of a thin sheet, the bisul-\nphide evaporating very quickly.\nPlastic Gutta Percha.— When gutta percha is\nsteeped for a few hours in benzol or naphtha it\nbecomes considerably swollen if afterward\nsoaked in hot water, it is exceeding plastic and\nrequires but moderate pressure to obtain most\nperfect copies from even such fragile objects\nas plaster of Paris models.\nGutta Percha for Cementing Cloth. Tailors\nuse a special preparation of gutta percha for\nthis purpose, consisting of a thin tissue, placed\nbetween layers of the cloth and pressed with a\nhot iron. Used extensively to fasten the bot-\ntom edge of trousers.\nGutta Percha Varnish. See Varnishes.\nHaemorrhoids.— The Pharm. Era vouches\nfor this as an excellent salve f or hemorrhoids:\nCocaine hydrochloride, 20 gr.; morphine sul-\nphate, 5 gr.; atropine sulphate, 4 gr.; tannin, 20\ngr.; vaseline, 1 oz.; rose water, sufficient. Ap-\nply after each evacuation of the bowels, con-\ntents of which should of course be kept in\nsoluble condition.\nHair, The.— This subject is very difficult to\narrange for ready reference. The alphabetical\narrangement has been adhered to as far as\npossible, but some search may be required be-\nfore the desired receipt is found.\nThe Hair.— 1. This should be washed once or\ntwice a week in tepid or cold water; it should\nafterward be rubbed dry with a towel. To dry\nthe hair before the fire is injurious to its\nvitality.\n2. Once or twice weekly some one of the\nwashes i ecommanded for promoting the growth\nof the hair may be used. Combing and brush-\ning are of great service in promoting the hair s\nnutrition; soft brushes are the best. Never use\na broken, jagged comb, and then go round com-\nplaining that your hair is coming out by hand-\nfuls.\n3. A little half to one teaspoonf ul— of scented\noil may once a week be rubbed well into the\nhair and its roots, and the superfluous oil re-\nmoved by the use of a towel. The daily use\nof oil, except in some rare cases of obstinate\ndry hair, is objectionable.\n4. If you want a head of thick hair, keep it\ncut as short as you conveniently can. Never\nshould a woman allow her hair to grow to the\nlevel of her waist, for it will thin the hair and\nweaken the system. Of the moustache, beard\nand whiskers, it is equally necessary to moder-\nate their length, and that it will be found of\nadvantage to occasionally apply a little oil and\nsome stimulating lotion. Combing and brush-\ning will also be of service. Directly hair shows\nany signs of thinning, shave it off or cut away\nas much as possible, according to its situation.\n5. Brush the eyebrows every day in their\nproper artistic line, and occasionally rub in a\nlittle Olive oil and some preparation. Once\nevery month the tips of the eyelashes may,\nwith advantage, be cut.\nBandoline.— -1. Iceland or Irish moss boiled in\nwater, strained and perfumed.\n2. Boil in 2 lb. of water until it is reduced\none-half, 1 teaspoonf ul quince seed, 2 table-\nspoonfuls flaxseed, a pinch white mustard seed.\nPerfume with oil of almonds.\n3. Two tablespoonf uls flaxseed, 3}4 pt. water.\nBoil five minutes.\n4. Heat 3 oz. isinglass in 2 lb. water, until dis-\nsolved. Add 4 oz. alcohol. Perfume with oil\nof almonds.\n5. Put 2 parts powdered gum tragacanth in\n60 parts rose water. Digest for three days.\nStrain and perfume with essential oil of rose.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0267.jp2"},"264":{"fulltext":"Hair.\nHair.\nThese mixtures can be colored with cochineal\nif desired.\n6. Quince seed 2 or 3 drm.\nWater 1 pt.\nand otherwise proceed as before.\n7. Gum arabic (clean, white) 2 oz.\nRose water 6 oz.\ndissolve and add of—\nTincture of cochineal, or\nEssence of roses (red) j- q. s. to color,\ntogether with a little spirit, if the product be\nintended to be kept long in hot weather.\n8. Gum arabic 314 to 4 oz.\nWater 3^pt.;\ndissolve, etc., as before, and gradually drop\nEau de cologne or lavender water\ninto the clear strained liquid, until the cloudi-\nness, at first occasioned, ceases to be removed\nby agitation. The next day decant the clear\nportion for use.\nBandoline is used by ladies and by hair-\ndressers to stiffen and fix the hair in curl or\nplace. It is applied either by moistening the\nfingers and passing the hair through them or\nby means of a small piece of sponge.\n9. Rose Bandoline.— Gum tragacanth, 6 oz.;\nrose water, 1 gal.; otto of roses, oz. Steep\nthe gum in the water for a day or so. As it\nswells and forms a thick gelatinous mass it\nmust from time to time be well agitated.\nSqueeze through a coarse linen cloth and allow\nit to stand for a few days; pass through the\ncloth a second time, then thoroughly incor-\nporate the otto of roses.\nBay Rum.—l. Bay oil, 1 oz.; oil pimento, 34\noz.; alcohol, 2 gal.; water, 4 pt.\n2. Bay oil, 10 drm.; pimento oil, 1 drm.; acetic\nether, 2 oz.; alcohol, 3 gal.; water 23^ gal.; mix,\nand after two weeks rest filter.\n3. A cheap bay rum can be prepared by sat-\nurating a 34 lb. block of magnesium carbonate\nwith oil of bay; pulverize the magnesia, place it\nin a filter and pour water through it until the\ndesired quantity is obtained, then add alcohol.\nThe quantity of water and of alcohol depends\non the desired strength and quantity of bay\nrum.\n4. Bay rum is made by digesting the leaves of\nthe bay plant, an aromatic plant grown in the\nWest Indies, in rum, and subsequent dis-\ntillation. An imitation is made as follows:\n3*4 fluid drm. oil of bay, fluid drm. oil of\npimento, 1 fluid oz. acetic ether, 1 gal. alcohol,\n3 qt. water. Mix, and after two weeks repose\nfilter.\nBears 1 Grease. See Pomades and Hair\nOils.\nTo Bleach Hair.— Gaseous chlorine and hydro-\ngen peroxide are effectual agents in bleaching\nhair. The hair should be thoroughly cleaned,\nwith a warm solution of soda, then washed with\nwater. While moist it is put into a jar and\nchlorine gas introduced, until the air in the jar\nlooks greenish. Allow it to stand for twenty-\nfour hours, and if necessary repeat.\nBrilliantine.— Oil bitter almonds, 1 or 2 parts;\nalcohol, 12 parts; oil, q. s.\nBrilliantine, Inseparable.— Oil vicini, 1 part;\nabsolute alcohol, 12 parts; oil and oil of neroli,\nq. s.\nCosmetiques.— Hard pomatum, either colored\nor uncoiored, under the form of flattened\nsticks. They are used to color the eyebrows,\nwhiskers, moustache and beard, as well as to\nkeep the hair in its place. The application\nmust be renewed daily, or of tener, as the cos-\nmetique is removed by the friction to which it\nis incidentally exposed, and perfectly so by\nsoap and water. The habitual and extensive\nuse of colored cosmetiques is dirty and discred-\nitable.\nCosmetique Blanc— Lard, good hard, 5 parts;\nwhite wax, pure, 2 parts. Melt them together.\nCosmetique Brum— The preceding, colored\nwith any harmless brown pigment, as with\nlevigated umber, raw and burnt, for plain\nbrown, and levigated terra di sienna or Spanish\nbrown for auburn and chestnut. A golden\nbrown, for very light hair, may be given by\nstrongly impregnating the melted fat with an-\nnatto, and then adding a little burnt terra di\nsienna.\nCosmetique Noir. Hard pomatum (cos-\nmetique blanc) colored with one-fourth or\none-fifth of its weight of the best levigated\nivory black. The way to insure a perfect mix-\nture of the pigments is to triturate them with\na little of the melted fat in a warm marble\nmortar, before adding them to the rest.\nCosmetique, Transparent.— Transparent cos-\nmetique is nothing more than a transparent\nsoap, made with alcohol. Take a good suet or\ntallow soap, which is cut into very thin rib-\nbons and exposed to the air and sun until it is\nthoroughly dried. It is then pulverized in a\nmarble mortar and passed through a fine sieve.\nThe powder thus obtained is directly dissolved\nin strong boiling alcohol. While the soap is\nliquid, the colors and perfumes are incorpor-\nated with it; S}4 gal. of alcohol of 0*849 sp. gr.\nare generally used with 50 lb. of soap. A still\nheated by steam or hot water is used for this\noperation, as a considerable quantity of alcohol\nwould be lost in a common heating pan, and the\ndirect application of fire would destroy the\ntransparency of the soap.\nCurling Fluid— 1. Mucilage of gum arabic,\n3 oz.; salts of tartar, 1% oz.; rose water, 234 pt.;\norange flower oil (from flowers), 6 oz. Color\nwith liquid carmine.\n2. Hair (False) to Preserve the Curl of .—To pre-\nvent the curl of false hair coming out by per-\nspiration or weather, use flax seed water.\n3. Use the liquid obtained by boiling for ten\nminutes, 1 drm. quince seeds in 3^pt. water and\nstraining, or steep 6 oz. gum tragacanth for\nthirty hours in 1 gal. rose water, stirring fre-\nquently; strain through a cloth and let stand\nfor a few days; then strain again and work in-\nto it 4 drm. oil of rose.\n4. Take borax, 2 oz.; gum arabic, 1 drm.; add\nhot water (not boiling), 1 qt.; stir, and as soon\nas the ingredients are dissolved add 3 table-\nspoonfuls of strong spirits of camphor. On re-\ntiring wet the hair with the above liquid.\nDeficient Hair. —When the hair has been\nscanty from birth the apparently bald places\nshould be examined by a powerful lens, for the\npresence of down. The following treatment\nwill probably develop the young hairs which\ncompose the down. Brush the parts with a\nbaby s hair brush for five minutes three times-\ndaily. Then gently rub in the following prep-\naration: Tincture of cantharidis, 1 oz.; recti-\nfied spirit, 40 oz.; sublimed sulphur, 1 oz.; gly-\ncerine, 8 oz. The application should not be\nwiped off. The part should also be gently\nbathed with warm water before the application\nand dried with a soft towel, but not rubbed.\nWhen the young hair is seen to be developing\nthe lotion may be changed for the following:\nDilute liquid ammonia, Y^ oz.; rectified spirit,\n10 oz.; sublimed sulphur, 34 oz.; tincture can-\ntharadis, y% oz.; glycerine, 2 oz.; phosphate of\nlime, 34 oz.; tincture cinchona, )4 oz. This is to\nbe applied ir the same manner as the other.\nShould any irritation of the skin follow, its\nbulk of glycerine and water, equal parts, may\nbe added.\nDepilatories. Depilatories should be used\nonly with great caution, if used at all. Number\n2 is probably the best.\n1. Chemical.— Sulphuret of calcium (recent)\nand quicklime, equal parts. Reduce them sep-\narately to fine powder, mix, and keep the mix-\nture in a well stopped bottle. Very effective\nand as safe as any.\n2. A strong solution of sulphuret of barium,\nmade into a paste as wanted with powdered","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0268.jp2"},"265":{"fulltext":"Hair.\n253\nHair.\nstarch and at once applied. Prof. Redwood\nsays this is the best and safest depilatory.\n3. Boudet s Depilatory\nHydrosulphuret of sodium (crys-\ntallized) 3 parts.\nQuicklime 10 parts.\nStaroh 11 parts.\nMix. etc., as No. 1. Very effective. It is or-\ndered not to be applied for longer than two to\nfour minutes.\n4. Cazenave s Pommade Epilatoire\nQuicklime 1 part.\nCarbonate of soda 2 parts.\nLard 8 parts.\nRub them together so as to form an ointment.\n5. Chinese Depilatory\nSulphuret of potassium 1 part.\nPearlash (dry) 1 part.\nQuicklime 8 parts.\nMix. Effective and safe if properly used.\n6. Colley s Depilatory\nNiter 1 part.\nSulphur 1 part.\nOrpiment 3 parts.\nQuicklime 8 parts.\nSoap lye (strong) 32 parts.\nBoil them together in an iron vessel to the con-\nsistence of cream and keep it in a stoppered\ngreen glass bottle.\n7. Delcroix s Poudre Subtile\nOrpiment 1 oz.\nQuicklime ...10oz.\nStarch 13 oz.\nMix, etc., as No. 1.\n8. Pate Epilatoire To No. 6 add—\nPowdered orris root. 3 parts.\nOr enough to form it into a paste.\n9. Depilatory paste\nFresh slaked lime 2 parts.\nWater 3 parts.\nMix, pass a stream of sulphureted hydrogen\ninto the paste as long as it continues to absorb\nthe gas, and then at once put it into stoppered\nbottles. It is said to be so powerful that a\nlayer a line in thickness will denude any por-\ntion of the scalp or beard in less than three\nminutes. Its use, therefore, requires the ut-\nmost care.\n10. Plenck s Pasta Epilatoria\nOrpiment 1 part.\nQuicklime .12 parts.\nStarch ,.12parts.\nMix, etc., as No. 1.\n11. Rayer s Depilatory:\nCharcoal i par t.\nQuicklime 8 parts.\nSalt of tartar (dry) 16 parts.\nMix, etc., as No. 1.\n12. Depilatory.— -A mixture of quicklime, 8\nparts; sulphid of potassium, 1 part; dry pearlash,\n1 part; kept in a closed bottle and made with\nwarm water into a paste at the moment of use,\nis the best depilatory. In order to use it with\nsafety, it must be applied to a smaU portion\not the skin and allowed to remain only five or\nten minutes. The safest of all depilatories is a\nstrong solution of sulphide of barium made\ninto a paste with powdered starch and used im-\nmediately after being mixed. N. B.— Barium\ncompounds are poisonous when taken into the\nstomach.\n13. Buehligen s Depilatory.— A mixture of 2 or\n8 parts sulphide of arsenic with 15 parts pulver-\nized quicklime.\nDry, Stiff or Obstinate Hair.— Men should use\nyz teaspoonful, women 1 teaspoonfu] olive oil,\nevery morning. The hair should be washed\ndaily in glycerine 5 parts; water 50 parts. It\nshould be parted if possible in that direction in\nwhich it most easily falls. The brush should be\nused freely.\nHair Dyes.— Where, from some personal idio-\nsyncrasy, the color of the hair has disappeared\nand cannot be restored, a dye may be consid-\nered necessary, the following will be of service;\nbut the nitrate of silver dyes should be avoided\nand the use of any dye for prolonged time is\ndetrimental to the hair.\n1. Brown\nWalnut skins beaten to a pulp 4 oz.\nRectified spirit 16 oz.\nThe above is perfectly innocent in its char-\nacter.\nThe following is original, and non-injurious:\n2. Black:\nSulphate of iron 10 grn.\nGlycerine 1 oz.\nWater 1 pt.\nThe hair must be thoroughly washed with\nthis, dried and brushed once daily for three\ndays; then the following should be applied on a\nsmall tooth comb, but it should not be allowed\nto touch the skin if the other preparation\nhas done so, as a temporary stain would result.\n3. Gallic acid 4 grn.\nTannic acid. 4 grn.\nWater V/% oz.\nAfter the first application of Formula 2. the\nhair should be allowed to dry and then be\nbrushed. Subsequently, both formulas may be\nused once daily at an interval of an hour or so,\nuntil a black color is produced.\nAll preparations of lead and mercury are in-\njurious if used for any length of time; they may,\nhowever, be legitimately used where some\nsmall portion of hair has t from personal idiosyn-\ncrasy, lost its color, which cannot be restored.\n4. Brown\nLitharge 1 part.\nSlaked lime 2 parts.\nStarch 2 parts.\nMilk sufficient to make a paste.\nBlack, as above, but in place of milk use\nwater.\nThe head must be covered after using these\nto prevent evaporation.\n5. Black— Slaked lime, 2 parts; carbonate of\nlead, 1 part; mixed with water and applied as\nthe last.\n6. Black.— Silver nitrate, 11 drm.; nitric acid,\n1 drm.; water, 1 pt.; sap green, 3 drm.; gum\narabic, V drm.\n7. Black.— Nitrate of silver, 1 drm.; distilled\nwater, just so much as will dissolve it. Bottle\nand keep in the dark. In another bottle place\n2 drm. of gallic acid in a^ pt. of hot water.\nAfter washing the hair use the gallic acid, and\nwhen it is nearly dry the silver solution. The\ndye may be lightened in color by adding more\nwater to the silver solution.\n8. Prof. Redwood\nLitharge 2 oz.\nFresh slaked lime 1 oz.\nPowdered starch 1 oz.\nmix. For use, add of—\nLiquor of potassa 2 fl. drm.\nWater, to form a thick cream. q. s.\nand stir the whole briskly for some time. The\nproportions here are excellent; but, owing to\nthe caustic nature of the liquor of potassa, it is\nadvisable to wet the paste up about an hour\nbefore applying it, and to stir it frequently\nduring the whole time.\n9. Lime, slaked by exposure to\ndamp air 2 parts.\nCarbonate of lead, pure white\nlead 1 part.\nmix thoroughly, pass the mixture through a\ngauze sieve, and at once bottle it and preserve\nit from the air. Used as the preceding, but\nacts in one-third or one- fourth the time. The","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0269.jp2"},"266":{"fulltext":"Hair.\n254\nHair.\nshade depends chiefly on the length of its appli-\ncation. Not recommended.\n10. Chevallier\nFresh slaked lime 5 drm.\nWater 1}4 oz.\nmix, strain through gauze, and pour the milk\ninto a 4 oz. bottle. Next take of—\nSugar of lead 5 drm.\nWater 3 oz.\ndissolve; add to this solution-\nDry slaked lime 1 drm.\nand agitate them well together for a few min-\nutes. Wash the resulting precipitate with a\nlittle distilled or soft water, drain it and add it\nto the milk of lime in the 4 oz. bottle. Lastly,\nshake the whole well together, and again be-\nfore use, if it be not at once applied. It must\nbe kept well corked. As the last, but acts\nmuch more quickly.\n11. Silver Dyes.— The old f orms of these were\nthe two following\nNitrate of silver, cryst 1 drm.\nDistilled water 1 oz.\ndissolve. Used undiluted, as noticed below; it\ndyes the hair black; diluted with an equal bulk\nof pure water, deep brown and chestnut; and\nwith twice its bulk of water, light brown and\nauburn; all of which may be modified by the\nmode of using it. The color it produces also\ndepends on that of the hair to which it is\napplied,\n12. Nitrate of silver, cryst. 1 to 1)4 drm.\nDistilled water 2 oz.\ndissolve. For browns of different shades, di-\nluted, as before, according to the result de-\nsired. Hair moistened with either of the pre-\nceding gradually changes its color by exposure\nto the light, and almost immediately on ex-\nposure to sunshine.\n13. Nitrate of silver, 30 grm.; sulphate of cop-\ncopper, 2*5 grm. Dissolve the two salts in 250\ncubic centimeters of water, and add sufficient\nammonia to dissolve the precipitate formed,\nand make it up to one liter.\nAn instantaneous dye may be made by steep-\ning the hair in a solution of pyrogallic acid in\nacetic acid, and then in the argenti-cupric solu-\ntion dissolved above. The hair should be al-\nlowed to dry partially after the application of\nthe pyrogallic solution. By varying the pro-\nportion of the pyrogallic acid from 1 grm. to\n50 grm. per liter, any tint may be obtained\nfrom light brown to black. Moniteur Scien-\ntifique.\n14. Pyrogallic Hair Dye (Pyrogallic Stain)\nPyrogallic acid 34 oz.\nDistilled water, hot 134 oz.\ndissolve, and when the solution has cooled,\ngradually add of\nKectifled spirit 34 fl. oz.\nIt may be made a little stronger or weaker, at\nwill.\nThe pyrogallic stain of the shops is com-\nmonly made by the dry distillation of Aleppo\ngalls, coarsely powdered, in a retort with a\nshort wide neck, dissolving the solid acid, which\nsublimes in a little hot water, and after mixing\nthis solution with the acid liquor which also\npasses over, adding a little rectified spirit. The\noil floating on the surface is then skimmed off,\nor otherwise separated, and the liquid either\ndecanted or filtered.\n15. The hulls of green walnuts are pounded\nup, and the juice expressed by squeezing in a\ntincture press. The juice is then rubbed up\nwith olive oil.\n16. The juice as expressed is used mixed with\na little rectified spirits and perfumed with oil\nof cloves, the latter acting as a preservative.\nThe whole is allowed to stand for a week or\ntwo with occasional agitation, and the clear so-\nlution is eventually decanted. Sometimes salt\nis used to preserve it. These dyes stain the\nskin very strongly.\n17. The simplest form is the expressed juice\nof the bark or shell of green walnuts. To pre-\nserve the juice, a little alcohol is commonly\nadded to it with a few bruised cloves, and the\nwhole digested together, with occasional agita-\ntion, for a week or fortnight, when the clear\nportion is decanted, and, if necessary, filtered\nSometimes a little common salt is added with\nthe same intention. It should be kept in a\ncool place. The most convenient way of ap-\nplication is by means of a sponge.\n18. Hair Dye, Yellow.— Moisten the hair, pre-\nviously washed and dried, with a solution of\nacetate or nitrate of lead, and follow with a\nmordant of yellow chromate of potash.\n19. Hair Dye, Blonde or Flaxen.— Mix 5 oz.\ndistilled water, 34 oz. acetate of iron, 34 oz.\nnitrate of silver, and 1 oz. nitrate of bismuth;\nmoisten the hair with this mixture, and after\nan hour, touch it with a mixture of equal parts\nof sulphide of potassium and distilled water.\nLustral Fluid.— Take 1 oz. of wax to 1 lb. of\noil; otto of bergamot, 1 oz.; otto of lemon, 34\noz.; otto of lavender, 2 drm.; otto of cloves, 1\ndrm.\nPhilocome, Friend to the Hair. White\nwax, 10 oz.; fresh rose oil, 1 lb.; acacia oil, 34\nlb.; jasmine oil, 34 lb.; fleur d orange oil, 1 lb.;\ntuberose oil, 1 lb. Melt the wax in the oils by\na water bath at the lowest possible tempera-\nture. Stir the mixture as it cools; do not pour\nout until it is nearly cool enough to set. Let\nthe jars be slightly warmed.\nPhilocome (second quality).— White wax, 5\noz.; almond oil, 2 lb.; otto bergamot, 1 oz.; otto\nof lemon, 34 oz.; otto of lavender, 2 drm.; otto\nof cloves, 1 drm.\nSea Foam for Barbers.— Dissolve in 8 oz. al-\ncohol 2 oz. castor oil, 1 oz. ammonia. Add this\nmixture to 1 qt. water.\nHair Oils.— Camphorated Oil.— Olive oil in\nwhich 5 or 6% camphor (crushed) has been dis-\nsolved, by means of a gentle heat. A popular\napplication in weak and failing hair. To in-\ncrease its action, a little oil of thyme, rosemary,\nor nutmeg, should be added to it.\nCocoanut Hair Oil\nCocoanut oil 34 pt.\nCastor oil J4 pt.\nAlcohol *..6 pt.\nSlippery elm bark 1 oz.\nWater 4 oz.\nOil of bergamot 1 oz.\nOil of lemon 34 oz.\nOil of pimento 34 oz.\nOil of almonds. 1 drm.\nThe cocoanut oil is mixed with the castor oil*\nand the alcohol mixed slowly with them at a\nslight heat. The elm bark in coarse powder is\ndissolved in the water and strained, and mixed\nby agitation with the rest. Lastly it is filtered,\nperfumed, and colored with a little tincture of\ngamboge.\nHair Oil.— Castor oil, 34 pt.; 95# alcohol, 34 pt.;\ntincture cantharides, 34 oz.; oil of bergamot, 2\ndrm. Color a pale pink with alkanet root.\nMacassar Oil.—\nOil of ben or almonds (reddened) 1 pt.\nOil of rosemary 1 drm.\nOil of origanum 1 drm.\nOil of nutmeg 15 drops.\nOtto of roses 15 drops.\nNeroli 6 drops.\nEssence of musk 3 or 4 drops.\nMix, as before.\nHuile de Macassar (Macassar Oil), of Naquet.—\n1. Oil of ben 8 qt.\nOil of noisette 4 qt.\nAlcohol lqt.\nEssence bergamot .3 oz.\nSpirit of musk... 3oz.\nSpirit of Portugal 2 oz.\nEssence of roses 2 drm.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0270.jp2"},"267":{"fulltext":"Hair.\n255\nHair.\nMix and keep the whole over a water bath for\nan nour in a well closed vessel. Digest then in\nthe same vessel for a week, stirring several\ntimes daily. Color with alkanet.\nHuile de Macassar (Macassar Oil).—\n2. Oil of ben 8 qt.\nOil of noisette .4 qt.\nAlcohol .1 qt.\nEssence bergamot 3 oz.\nEssence rose .2 drm.\nSpirit of musk 3 oz.\nSpirit of Portugal .2 oz.\nMix and digest precisely in the same manner\nand for the same length of time as for the pre-\nceding. This oil, however, is preferable to\nNaquet s, from its property of keeping much\nlonger. Color with alkanet.\nTo Make the Hair Curl.—\nOlive* oil ...1 lb.\nOil of origanum 1 drm.\nOil of rosemary .134 drm.\nOil of Roses.—\nOlive oil 1 pt.\nOtto of roses 16Idrops.\nCommon Oil.—\nRectified spirit 1 pt.\nSweet oil 3 pt.\nStimulating Pomatum.—\nAlmond oil 34 lb.\nWhite wax 3djOz.\nClarified lard 3 oz.\nLiquid ammonia 34 oz.\nOil of lavender 1 drm.\nOil of cloves 1 drm.\nMarrow Oil.\nClarified beef narrow 13*6 oz.\nOil of almonds 34 pt.\nMelt them together, and scent the mixture at\nwill. Held in high repute as a hair oil by\nmany. That of the shops has seldom any mar-\nrow in it, but lard instead. The appropriate\nscents are the same as for bears 1 grease. It is\ngenerally tinged slightly yellow by means of a\nlittle palm oil or annatto.\nHuile du Phenix, or Baume Nerval.—\nBeef marrow, purified 4 oz.\nLard, purified 2 oz.\nConcrete oil mace 4 oz.\nOil of cloves, lavender, mint, rose-\nmary, sage and thyme, each. 2 drm.\nBalsam of tolu 4 drm.\nCamphor 1 drm.\nAlcohol 36° Baume 1 oz.\nPlace the alcohol in a glass matrass, and, by\nthe heat of a water bath, dissolve therein the\nbalsam tolu. This done, add the camphor and\nessential oils. On the other hand, melt to-\ngether the marrow, lard, oil of mace, and, as it\ncongeals, add the alcoholic solution first made,\nand stir the whole well until it is entirely\ncooled.\nBear s Grease.— Take washed hog s lard (dry)\n134 lb., melt it by the heat of a water bath, add\nbalsam of Peru, 2 drm.; flowers of benzoin and\npalm oil (blight), 1 drm. of each. Stir vigor-\nously for a few minutes. Then remove the\npan and after repose for a short time, pour off\nthe clear portion from the sediment and stir\nthe liquid mass until it begins to cool.\nBear s Oil. Huile de Graisse d Ours.—\nBear s grease body. 8 oz.\nBeef tallow body 2 oz.\nOil of alder 1 drm.\nOil of sage 1 drm.\nBenzoin 4 drm.\nMusk 3^j drm.\nPrepare this as directed for the preceding\noils.\nMixed Essential Oils; Mixed Scents.—\n1. Oil of bergamot 1 oz.\nOil of lemon 1 oz.\nOil of lavender (English) 3^ oz.\nOil of pimento y% oz.\nMix.\n2. To the last add of—\nOil of orange peel 2 drm.\nOil of cloves 1 drm.\n3. Oil of bergamot 3 drm.\nOil of lemon .3 drm.\nOil of orange peel 3 drm.\nEssence de petit grain 2 drm.\nOil of cloves 134 drm.\nOil of cassia 1 drm.\nMix.\nThe above are used as extemporaneous scent\nfor smelling bottles, hair oil, pommades, es-\nprits, sal volatile drops, etc; for which purpose\none or other of them is commonly kept at\nhand by the druggists. 1 oz. of any one of\nthem, added to a pt. of rectified spirit, pro-\nduces an agreeable esprit or perfume for per-\nsonal use.\nHuile Royale, Oil of Ambergris and Musk.—\nAmbergris 2 drm.\nGrain musk 3^ drm.\nOil of lavender (English) 20 drops.\nOil of cassia 10 drops.\nOil of cloves 10 drops.\nOil of nutmeg. 10 drops.\nNeroli ...10 drops.\nand proceed by infusion. Very fine. The in-\ngredients are worked over a second time, as\nwith oil of musk.\nHair Oil Perfume. The quantities are for 1\nqt. of hair oil.\n1. Heliotropin 8 grn.\nCoumarin 1 grn.\nOil of orris 1 gtt.\nOil of rose 16 m.\nOil of bergamot 32 m.\n2. Coumarin. 1 grn.\nOil of lemon 16 m.\nOil of bergamot 48 m.\n3. Coumarin 1 grn.\nOil of bitter almond 2 gtt.\nOil of cassia 2gtt.\nOil of lavender flower 32 m.\nOil of lemon 48 m.\nOil of bergamot 80 m.\n4. Coumarin 2 grn.\nOil of wintergreen 2 gtt.\nOil of clove 4 gtt.\nOil of cassia 4 gtt.\nOil of lavender flower 16 m.\nOil of lemon 48 m.\nOil of bergamot 72 m.\nOil of Vanilla; Huile a la Vanille.—\nVanilla (finest in powder) 234 oz.\nOil of bergamot 1 fl. drm.\nOtto of roses 15 drops.\nAmbergris 3 grn.\nOil (almond or olive) 134 Pt-\nby infusion. Very fragrant. For the simple\noil, the bergamot, otto and ambergris, are\nomitted.\nHair Powder. See Powders,\nShampoo Liquid, American Shampoo Liquid.—\n1. Sesquicarbonate of ammonia 2 drm.\nCarbonate of potash 2 drm.\nSoft water 34 pt.\ndissolve and add the solution to a mixture of—\nTincture of cantharides.. 13^ A- oz%\nRectified spirit 34 P*-\nGood rum 134 pt.\nand agitate the whole well together, adding a\nlittle scent, or not, at will. This preparation,\ntoo, has been highly puffed for removing dand-\nruff, preventing the hair falling off, etc. In\nusing it, the hair is wetted with it, well rubbed so\nas to form a lather, and then either washed with\ncold or lukewarm water, or rubbed dry with","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0271.jp2"},"268":{"fulltext":"Hair.\n256\nHair.\na towel and at once arranged with the brush and\n-comb. A commoner kind, in which the recti-\nfied spirit and one-third of the rum is replaced\nby water, forms the shampoo liquid often used\nby the hairdressers after cutting the hair.\n2. This very fashionable liquid, now in such\nprevalent use for removing the dandruff from\nthe hair, is made by mixing together\nNew England rum 3 qt.\nBay rum 1 qt.\nWater. 1 pt.\nGlycerine 2 oz.\nTinct. cantharides oz.\nCarb. ammonia J^ oz.\nBorax 1 oz.\nDissolve the last two in the water and add\ni;he solution to the other materials mixed to-\ngether and then shake up well. The hair\nis moistened with this liquid and the slight\nlather occasioned by rubbing with the hands\nmust be washed out with water. By doubling\nthe quantity of borax the lather is more soapy,\nbut the addition is injurious to the hair.\n3. Cream of tartar, 1 oz.; alcohol, 8 oz.; water,\n1 oz.; perfume, if desired.\n4. Ammonia, 1 oz.; saltpeter, oz.; best\ncaustic soda, finely shaved, 12 oz.; perfume to\nsuit.\n5. Ammonia, 3 oz.; cream of tartar, J4 oz.; al-\ncohol, 2 oz.; water, 1 pt.; perfume, if desired.\nShampoo Creams.—\n1. New England rum 1 pt.\nBay rum pt.\nGlycerine 2 oz.\nCarbonate of ammonia 1 oz.\nBorax 2 oz.\n2. Carbonate of potash 2 oz.\nBay rum 2 oz.\nRose water 1 pt.\nWater 1 pt.\n3. Carbonate of ammonia J*£ oz.\nCarbonate of soda V£oz.\nRum y pt.\nWater 1 pt.\nHair Washes, Tonics, Tnvigorators and Mis-\ncellaneous.— To graduaUy darken the hair\nSulphate of iron (green,\ncrushed) 1 drm.\nRectified spirit 1 fl. oz.\nOil of rosemary 10 or 12 drops.\nPure soft water pt.\nAgitate them together until solution and mix-\nture are complete. Many persons substitute\nthe strongest old ale for the water ordered\nabove.\nInfusion of Cantharides\nCantharides (powdered, re-\ncent) 2 to 3 drm.\nBoiling water 1 pt.\nInfuse, with frequent agitation, in a covered\nvessel, for two hours. When cold pour off the\nliquor, press the residuum and filter. A little\nspirit of rosemary or thyme may be added.\nUsed as a shampoo liquid, also as a wash in\nbaldness.\nLotion of Quinine, Quinine Hair Wash\nDisulphate of quinine 1 drm.\nRose water 8 oz.\nDilute sulphuric acid (sp. gr.\n1103) 15 drops.\nRectified spirit 2 oz.\nMix, then add of—\nGlycerine J4oz.\nEssence royale 5 or 6 drops.\nAnd agitate until solution is complete. The\nnext day decant or filter. A fashionable tonic\nwash in weak hair, the skin of the head being\nmoistened with it once or twice daily.\nSaponaceous Lotion, Vegetable Hair Wash\nWhite soft soap 1 oz.\nSoft water 18 fl. oz.\nDissolve by heat. When cold, strain the solu-\ntion, if necessary, and add of\nLiquor of potassa 2 fl. drm.\nRectified spirit 2 fl. oz.\nEssence royale (or ess. of\nmusk) 10 drops.\nAnd agitate the whole well together. Used\nchiefly to clean the partings of the hair, being\nafterward rinsed off with water.\nGolden Hair. The most harmless and effect-\nive of all preparations for producing this\ncolor is peroxide of hydrogen; it is sold under\nvarious high sounding names and sometimes at\nan exorbitant price.\nHair Invigorator.— A correspondent of the\nLancet states that he has found the following\npreparation most useful in cases of falling off\nof the hair\nTincture of jaborandi oz.\nLanoline 3 drm.\nGlycerine 2 oz.\nMix (by the aid of a little soft soap). A little\nto be rubbed in every night.\nQuinine Hair Tonic\nQuinine sulphate 20 grn.\nTincture of cantharides 2 fl. drm.\nEld. ext. of jaborandi 2 fl. drm.\nAlcohol 2 fl. oz.\nGlycerine 2 fl. oz.\nBay rum 6 fl. oz.\nRose water— enough to make 15 fl. oz.\nThe quinine is dissolved in the alcoholic\nliquids by warming slightly, then the other\ningredients are added.\nStimulating Hair Lotion\nTinct. of cantharides 3 fl. drm.\nTincture of capsicum 1 fl. drm.\nAmmonia 2 fl. drm.\nGlycerine 2 fl. drm.\nCologne water enough to\nmake 16 fl. drm.\nAstringent Hair Tonic\nTannin 1 drm.\nTincture of myrrh. 1 fl. oz.\nGlycerine 5 fl. oz.\nSalicylic Hair Tonic\nSalicylic acid 50 grn.\nBorax 2% drm.\nTincture of cantharides 1)4 fl. oz.\nBay rum 6 fl. oz.\nRose water 6 fl. oz.\nBoiling water enough to\nmake 18 fl. oz.\nAthenian Water.— Rose water, 1 gal.; alcohol,\n1 pt. sassafras wood, J4 lb. pearlash, 1 oz.\nBoil the wood in the rose water in a glass ves-\nsel when cold, add the pearlash and spirit.\nWash for Falling Hair.— Try the following:\nIodine (crushed small), drm.; olive oil (luke-\nwarm), 34 pt.; agitate them together in a small\nphial until solution is complete. It may be\nscented with a little essential oil of almonds or\nlemons; but it is better without it. Most of\nthe other oils cause the gradual decomposition\nof the hair. It has been very highly recom-\nmended as a hair oil for daily use in partial\nloss of hair and baldness, also to rub indurated\nglands, etc., with.\nHair Preservative.— A decoction of the bur-\ndock root (bardanus) is -the safest wash for the\nscalp to promote the growth of the hair and\nstrengthen the skin so as to prevent the falling\nout of the hair.\nHarmless Hair Restorative.— The same au-\nthority remarks The basis of all the best lo-\ntions for restoring hair is cantharides or am-\nmonia. A solution of borax in camphor water\nis useful. It cleanses the roots of the hair, and\nacts very slightly as a stimulant and thereby\nit will serve to promote the growth of the hair.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0272.jp2"},"269":{"fulltext":"Hair.\n257\nHair.\nBut one of the best stimulants we know of that\nhas not hitherto been published, is this\nVinegar of cantharides 1 fl. oz.\nGlycerine ZfL.oz.\nRose water 6 fl. oz.\nMix well. Let the mixture stand for twenty-\nfour hours, and filter.\nHair, to Prevent from Falling Out.— Glyce-\nrine and tincture capsicum, each 2 oz.; oil of ber-\ngamot, 1 drm. mix and perfume- to suit. This\nis to be the only dressing for the hair. Wash\nthe head occasionally with soft water and fine\nsoap.\nBeard Promoter.— Croton oil 12 drops, sweet\noil of almonds oz. troy. Mix and rub on skin\ngently twice a day. If too irritating, double\nthe amount of sweet almond oil. It is poison-\nous.\nGlycerine Hair Wash.— Glycerine, 2 fl. oz.\nwater, 6 fl. oz. oil of rosemary, 6 drops. Mix\ntogether. This is an excellent remedy against\ndandruff.\nHair Tonic— One oz. of sage and steep it in\nboiling water for ten minutes strain and add\n2 oz. glycerine, J4 oz. powdered borax, J4 oz l c\nsulphur, 34 oz. tincture of cantharides, berga-\nmot sufficient to perfume. Apply twice a week\nwith the hand, and rub thoroughly in. It will\nremove dandruff and strengthen the growth.\nIt will also, it is said, prevent gray hairs.\nScurf or Dandruff The scientific name of this\nis pityriasis it is characterized by the produc-\ntion of a white, brittle scarf skin, which sheds\nitself in small scales. The affection is not con-\nfined to the scalp, although it generally attacks\nparts covered by hair.\nThe treatment consists in daily washing of\nthe head or other parts affected with\nWarm water 1 pt.\nGlycerine J^ oz.\nThis should be thoroughly rubbed over the\nskin; the dilute citrine ointment (sold by all\nchemists) may be used at night. A good pre-\nventive, and in mild cases, a curative wash is—\nWater 1 pt.\nBorax 1 oz.\nAs a preventive, it should be used once weekly;\nas a curative, twice daily.\nIt sometimes happens that the disease at-\ntacks parts uncovered by hair, and it has, in\nerror, been termed scorbutus, or the scorbutic\ncomplaint. Dandriff, or pityriasis simplex, is\ntotally distinct from scorbutus, or scurvy. The\nlatter is brought about by abstinence from\nvegetable food, and nearly always removed\nwhen the latter is supplied and, moreover, it\nis a disease characterized by rottenness of the\ngums, foul ulcers, and wasting of the body.\nAVhen dandruff occurs on uncovered skin, the\npart must be constantly moistened with glyce-\nrine, and dilute citrine ointment should be used\nat night. Every night, each square inch of the\naffected skin is to have rubbed in a piece of the\nf ollowing ointment, the size and thickness of a\nquarter dollar.\nChrysophanic acid ldrm.\nLard 1 oz.\nOnce every day the following is to be freely\napplied\nCarbonate of bismuth I oz.\nGlycerine 1 oz.\nMilk 2 oz.\nRectified spirit 1 oz.\nThis is to remain on for half an hour, and to be\nwashed off with-\nWater 1 pt.\nGlycerine 1 oz.\nBaldness, to Prevent.— It is recommended for\nthe prevention of baldness that the hair be kept\npretty closely cropped, and that the head be\nbathed frequently in salt water and lubricated\noccasionally with a very small quantity of\nvaseline. Two teaspoonf uls of salt to a pint of\nwater will make a tonic of the proper strength,\nand with this the head should be bathed three\ntimes a week.— Med. Bee.\nWorld s Hair Restorer contains, says Witt-\nstein, 5*6 grn. sulphur, 8 grm. sugar of lead, 100\ngrm. glycerine and 200 grm. aromatic perfumed\nwater.\nLanolin Hair Cream\n1. Creme d Amand 1 drm.\nGlycerine 1 drm.\n2. 01. amygd 6 drm.\nLanolin y^ oz.\nOtto de rose 8 gtt.\n3. Tinct. canthar 2 drm.\nAquae ad 4 oz.\nMix in separate mortars the first two lots;\ngradually add No. 2 to No. 1, then stir No. 3\ngradually in.\nDrying Washes for Moist, Lax Hair\nEssential oil of almonds 1 fl. drm.\nOil of cassia y% fl. drm.\nEssence of musk fl. drm.\nRectified spirit 2j£ fl. oz.\nmix, and add gradually, with brisk agitation\nDistilled water 10 oz.\nin which has been dissolved—\nGum arabic (finest) 1 oz.\nThe hair and scalp is slightly moistened with\nthe liquid, and the hair at once arranged (with-\nout wiping), while still moist.\nHair, Damp.— If the hair is persistently damp\na wash may be made with Water, 1 pt.; table\nsalt, 1 teaspoonf ul. This may be used once or\ntwice daily, and the hair thoroughly combed\nand brushed after its application. Its long con-\ntinuance tends to lighten the hair.\nHair, False, to Restore.— To bleach or restore\na switch of white hair which has turned yellow,\nclean thoroughly and expose it moist to the\nvapor of burning sulphur in a box.\nGlycerine Hair Tonic— Glycerine, 2 fl. oz.; al-\ncohol deodorized, 12 fl. oz.; castor oil, 2 fl. oz.;\noil of rosemary, 20 drops, or any other perfume.\nDissolve the castor oil and oil of rosemary in\nthe alcohol and add gradually the glycerine.\nHair Washes (Eaux pour les Cheveux).— To\nstrengthen and improve the growth of the\nhair:\n1. Rosemary tops 2 oz.\nBoiling water 1 pt.\nInfuse in a teapot or covered jug until cold,\nthen express the liquor and add to it of\nRectified spirit 1 fl. oz.\nor—\nGood Jamaica rum 2^ fl. oz.\nand shake them well together.\n2. Box leaves a small handful.\nBoiling water 1 pt.\nInfuse as before and add to the expressed\nliquor or not, at will, of\nJamaica rum 2% A« oz.\n3. As the last, but substituting good black\ntea, 1 oz. for the box leaves. These are all pop-\nular favorites.\n4. Erasmus Wilson.\nEau de Cologne (strongest).. 8 fl. oz.\nTincture of cantharides 1 fl. oz.\nOil of lavender (English) J^ fl. drm.\nOil of rosemary y% fl. drm.\nMix. More energetic than the preceding. It\nis improved by the addition of y% fl. drm. of oil\nof origanum, or by its substitution for the oil\nof lavender, but the omission of the latter ren-\nders it less odorous.\nA Safe Hair Dressing.— The following is from\nthe Year Book of Pharmacy for 1872\nOil of cocoanut 12 oz.\nCastor oil 3 lb.\nMelt the cocoanut oil and add then the castor\noil; agitate until they are thoroughly mixed\nand add strong alcohol, 4 pt.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0273.jp2"},"270":{"fulltext":"Hair.\n258\nHardening,\nTricopherous.— Castor oil, pt.; alcohol 95$,\npt.; tincture cantharides, oz.; oil of berga-\nniot, 3 drm. Color a pale pink with alkanet\nroot.\nWhite Batons or Cosmetics.— Suet, 1 lb.; wax\nor paraffine, Yi lb.; otto of bergamot, 1 oz.; otto\nof cassia, 1 dr.; otto of thyme, J^dr.\nHair Washes— Stimulating\nRose water Yz pt.\nRectified spirit Yz pt.\nTincture of arnica Yi oz.\nDilute liduid ammonia 2 drm.\nBandoline for Hair.\nQuince seeds 1 part.\nHot water 4 parts.\nEau de Cologne.\nAlcohol 2 qt.\nOil of neroli of orange 3 drm.\nOil of rosomary lYz drm.\nOil of orange zest 1 oz.\nOil of bergamot 3 drm.\nHungary Water.\nRectified spirit 1 gal.\nOil of neroli of lemon V/% oz.\nOil of petch grain oz.\nOil of orange Yz oz.\nOil of rosemary oz.\nOil of citron zest J4 oz.\nOil of neroli of orange J oz.\nEau de Bouquet.\nRectified spirit 1 pt.\nSpirit of rosemary ^oz.\nEssence of violets Y oz.\nEssence of bergamot Y* drm.\nEssence of jasmine Y drm.\nOil of verbena M drm.\nOil of lavender M drm.\nRose water 24 pt.\nOrange flower water J^oz.\nEau sans Pareille.\nBergamot essence Y drm.\nEssence of lemon 1 drm.\nEssence of citron Yz drm.\nHungary water 2 oz.\nRectified spirit 1Y pt.\nWashes for Failing Hair and Baldness.— Those\nof the shops mostly contain tincture of can-\ntharides as their active ingredient. The fol-\nlowing is a good formula\n1. Tincture of cantharides.. 2Y A. oz.\nJamaica rum, strong, good 2Y A- oz.\nGlycerine (Price s) 1 oz.\nSesqui carbonate of ammonia,\ncrushed 2 drm.\nOil of origanum 15 drops.\nOil of rosemary 15 drops.\nmix, add of—\nDistilled water 9 oz.,\nand agitate the whole well together. The\nskin of the head to be moistened and,, rub-\nbed with it twice daily. It will keep the hair\nsoft and moist like oil. Liquor of ammonia\nmay be substituted for the sesquicarbonate. It\nmay be diversified by omitting the ammonia\naltogether, or by substituting drm. of oil of\nnutmeg for the rosemary and origanum.\nThe following are in less frequent use, but\nhave been highly extofled for their efficacy by\ncertain writers:\n2. Iodide of potassium 2 drm.\nRosemary water 1 pt.\ndissolve, and add a little eau de Cologne or\nlavender to scent it.\n3. To the last add of—\nTincture of iodine *4 A. oz.\n4. Phosphureted oil 1 oz.\nMucilage, thick 1 oz.\nGlycerine (Price s) Y oz.\nDistilled water Y pt.\nForm them into an emulsion, adding a few\ndrops of essence of roses and of musk, to\nscent it.\nHall Marks.— Hall mark, the official stamp\nof the British Goldsmiths Company and other\nauthorized assay offices on gold and silver arti-\ncles to guarantee their purity.— The standard\nsilver of England is an alloy, containing, in\n1,000 parts, 925 parts silver and 75 copper.\nOriginally the Goldsmiths Company had a\nmonopoly of gold and silver work in England.\nThe company is still authorized to search the\nshops of silversmiths and seize articles which\ndo not bear the hall mark of the company. A\ncharge of Is. 6d an oz. is made for assaying and\nstamping, the larger portion of the revenue so\nderived being paid over to the government.\nHalogens.— Chlorine, bromine, iodine and\nfluorine are called the halogens, because they\nform a peculiar series of salts called the haloid\nsalts. Thus cadmium bromide and potassium\niodide are haloid salts.\nHams, Curing.— 1. Few persons under-\nstand the proper ingredients and exact propor-\ntions to make a suitable pickle for curing hams.\nThis information will doubtless prove of\nvalue. The desideratum is to cure the meat so\nthat it will keep in hot weather, with the use\nof as little salt as possible. Pickle made in the\nfollowing manner, it is believed, will accom-\nplish this:\n1M lb. salt— coarse or alum salt is best.\noz. saltpeter.\n1 pt. molasses or 1 lb. brown sugar.\n1 teaspoonf ul saleratus.\nLet these be added to 1 gal. of water, and the\namount increased in the same proportions to\nmake the quantity required. Bring the liquor\nto a boil, taking care to skim just before it be-\ngins to boil. Let the pickle cool, and pour it\nover the meat until entirely covered. The\nmeat should be packed in clean, tight casks,\nand should remain in the pickle six or seven\nweeks, when it will be fit to smoke. Green\nhickory wood is the best article for this pur-\npose. Shoulders prepared in the same way are\nnearly as good as hams. This pickle is just the\nthing to make nice corned beef, or corned beef\ntongues, or any lean meat for drying.— Valley\nFarmer.\n2. To 1 gal. water, take lYi lb, salt, Y lb.\nsugar, Yi oz. saltpeter, Yz oz. potash.\nIn this ratio the pickle can be increased to\nany quantity desired. Let these be boiled to-\ngether until all the dirt from the sugar rises to\nthe top, and is skimmed off. Then throw it\ninto a tub to cool, and when cold, pour it over\nyour beef or pork, to remain the usual time-\nsay four or five weeks. The meat must be well\ncovered with pickle, and should not be put\ndown for at least two days after the killing,\nduring which time it should be slightly sprin-\nkled with powdered saltpeter, which removes\nall the surface blood, etc., leaving the meat\nfresh and clean. Some omit boiling the pickle,\nand find it to answer well, though the opera-\ntion of boiling purifies the pickle by throwing\noff the dirt always to be found in salt and\nsugar.\n3. Take a large cask (if possible one between\n100 and 120 gal.), and after covering the bottom\nwith salt, lay in a ham with the skin side to the\nbottom, then sprinkle another layer of salt,\nput in another ham, etc., till the cask is full.\nA fluid is then made of the proportions of 3\ngals, water, iY lb. salt, 2 lb. brown sugar, \\Yz\noz. sal peter, 1 oz. saleratus. When this is\nskimmed, scalded, and has gotten cold, it is\npoured over the hams until it covers them en-\ntirely. They should remain in this pickle for\nfrom thirteen to fourteen weeks.\nHands (The). See the Skin. See also\n(The) Nails and Skin.\nHardening. See also Tempering and\nCasehardening.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0274.jp2"},"271":{"fulltext":"Hardening.\n259\nHardening.\nHardening Fluid.— Rosin, 25 lb.; train oil, 12\nlb.; lard, 51b.; asafetida, lJ41b.\nZinc, to Harden.— From 1V£ to 3)4 oz. of sal\nammoniac are added to the molten metal.\nThis yields a metal which can be easily worked\nwith tools.\nCast Iron, to Harden.— One lb. of strong con-\ncentrated sulphuric acid and 1 oz. nitric acid\nare added to 1 to 1)4 gal. of water, and the iron\nheated to a fine cherry red is plunged in this.\nHardening Compound for Thin Steel.— 1. Beef\nsuet, 3 lb.; train oil, 1)4 gal.; wax, 6% oz.; add\n1)4 lb. rosin.\n2. Spermaceti oil, 11)4 parts; melted tallow, 5\nparts; neat s foot oil, 2J4 parts; pitch, J4 part;\nrosin, part.\nHardening Cutlery.— -1. Sal ammoniac, 6 lb.;\nrefined borax, 3 lb.; water, 43^ qt.; red wine, 6\noz.\n2. Water, 6 gal.; potash, l^lb.; sal ammoni-\nac, 1)4 lb.; red wine or wine vinegar, 2*4 pt.;\ntartaric acid, 1)4 lb.\nHardening of Small Work. Put soap on the\npieces before heating. Use muriatic acid, 1\npart; water, 2 parts; for cleaning the pieces\nwhen made black by hardening.\nExpansion of Wrought Iron and Cast Steel.\nIt is important in workshop manipulation to\nremember that if a piece of cast steel be made\nred hot, and quenched in cold water, it will be-\ncome longer, but if the same operation be per-\nformed upon a piece of wrought iron it will\nbecome shorter.\nCopper, to Harden.— Mix thoroughly when in\na molten condition with from 3% to 5% of man-\nganese oxide.\nHardening Steel Cutters.— For cutters 3 in.\nand upward in diameter, the hardening pro-\ncess is a hazardous one and causes some anxi-\nety. In the first place, the lowest temperature\nat which the steel will harden should be ascer-\ntained. If at a blood-red heat so much the\nbetter. The cutter when roughed out to near\nthe size before the finishing cut is taken off\nshould be well annealed. This precaution is\ntoo often neglected. Whether for large taps,\nlathe mandrels, or cutters, it will be found\nafter the annealing, that a degree of warpage\nhas taken place, showing that the steel, though\nsoft, was, nevertheless, in a state of tension,\nand this preliminary annealing greatly lessens\nthe tendency to crack in the hardening, For a\ncutter of 3 in. in diameter, a large clear fire of\ncinders should be used, great care being taken\nto heat the work uniformly. The cutter should\nbe smeared over with a paste of soap and leather\ncharcoal. This causes the finished cutting\nedges to come out bright and quite hard, after\nthe quenching. Before hardening taps and\ndrills, it is my custom to rub a piece of soap\nover them before heating, as no scale is then\nformed, and they come out clean after quench-\ning. For large cutters, etc., in order to lessen\nthe risk of cracking during the quenching, I\nshould pour oil over the water to the thickness\nof a card.\nHardening Drills. Drills used for riveting\nglass and china are made of fragments of dia-\nmond, and these, of course, require no harden-\ning. For steel drills harden them as jewelers\ndo their small tools— viz., heat to a cherry red\nand plunge into sealing wax, quickly withdraw\nand insert in a fresh place, and repeat this op-\neration until too cold to enter the wax. In\nusing a steel drill for glass it is advantageous to\nkeep it moistened with turps, or better still, a\nsolution of camphor in turpentine.\nTo Harden Steel Drills and Other Instruments.\nAny piece of steel wire can be made into a\ndrill of such hardness that it will easily pene-\ntrate glass, or into an engraving tool, with\nwhich to graduate bottles, etc. In the first\nplace, shape the wire as desired by filing, then\nmix 4 parts powdered resin and 2 parts fish oil\nwith one part tallow heated to the melting\npoint. Heat the wire or other object to be\nhardened to dull redness, dip it into the mix-\nture and leave there until perfectly cold.\nAfter that it is heated again and dipped into\ncold water until the desired degree of hardness\nis obtained.\nWatch Drills.— A simple way of hardening\nsmall watch drills Heat the tools in the flame\nof a candle and then plunge suddenly in the\ncandle grease. This is done on account of the\ndrills being so small that they will not retain\ntheir heat sufficiently long to enable the ope-\nrator to remove them from the source of heat\nto a vessel containing water used for hard-\nening.\nSealing Wax, Hardening in.— Heat the steel\narticle to a white heat and plunge into the\nsealing wax. After an instant withdraw and\ninsert in a new part of the wax. Repeat the\noperation until the steel becomes so cold that\nit refuses to enter the sealing wax.\nHardening Drills and Cutting Tools for Use\non Hard Steel, Chilled Iron, Glass arid Other\nHard Substances. Dissolve zinc in muriatic\nacid to saturation. Reduce the solution by\nadding an equal volume of water.\nFor the tool use new steel or steel that has\nnever been heated to a cherry red. Heat the\ntool after it has been sharpened, taking care not\nto heat it above a dull cherry red. Plunge it\nin the zinc chloride solution above described\nand hold it still until cool. Use without further\nsharpening.\nWhen the tool becomes dull, grind it as little\nas possible to sharpen. If it does not stand\nwell after grinding-, reharden.\nUse the usual lubricants for drills and cut-\nters; oil, or soap water for tempered steel;\nturpentine for glass, very hard steel and chilled\niron. This receipt is very highly recommended.\nCast Iron, to Harden.— One lb. of strong sul-\nphuric acid is mixed with 1)4 gal. water and 1\noz. of nitric acid. Heat the iron in a clean fire\nto a cherry red and plunge into the mixture.\nSteel, to Harden on the Outside.— The following\nis said to keep the inside soft while the outside\nremains hard. Borax and potassium nitrate, 3\nparts of each; yellow prussiate of potash, 10\nparts lead acetate, 1 part. Grind the materials\nup fine and mix them thoroughly. When the\nsteel is heated to red heat sprinkle over some\nof the powder, return to the fire until the\nproper color is reached, then cool in rain water.\nMill Picks. The only peculiarity in hardening\nmill picks is to leave the edge thick, say tfe in.\nHarden at the lowest heat that the particular\nkind of steel will take, in clean water at about\n60°. Draw temper as little as possible, which\nmay be ascertained by trial at a straw color to\nbegin with. Do not draw temper with the\nsame heat used for hardening. The pick after\nhardening should be tried with an old fine file,\nwhich by a little experience will tell you if the\nhardening is even. Then grind and heat from\nthe center for color drawing. If you use low\ngrade steel of first rate quality, the color\ntemper may be dispensed with. The greatest\ndifficulty is caused by burning the corners in\nforging or in heating to harden. Therefore\nuse a dull charcoal fire if possible with light\nblast. Blast often ruins the finest steel.\nSmall Screws, to Harden.— 1 know of no liquid\nfor the purpose. Get some charcoal and re-\nduce it very fine now take 1 part of prussiate\nof potash and 2 parts common table salt, pow-\nder these and dissolve them in hot water, just\nenough to keep them in solution; wet the\ncharcoal into a paste with it, and imbed your\narticles in it in a sheet iron pan; place in a\nslow fire and subject them to a nice red heat,\nand if very small you will not want the harden-\ning to penetrate too deep. Five minutes will\ndo, but the longer they are subjected to the pro-\ncess the harder they will be and the deeper.\nPlunge them into cold water, box and all. By\nthis means you will have them clean and hard\nand will not lose any in the fire.— Correspondent\nin English Mechanic.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0275.jp2"},"272":{"fulltext":"Harness.\n260\nHarps.\nSteel, to Harden.— To 1 lb. prussiate potash\nadd 3 lb. common salt, 2 oz. borax and 2 oz.\ncyanide potash. Place the same in a crucible\nand place the same over a fire when hot put\nthe steel in the mixture and there let it remain\nuntil hot, after which immediately plunge it in\nwater until cool. This prevents the steel from\ncracking- or warping, and will give perfect\nsatisfaction.\nSchaefer s Fluid for Hardening Steel. This\nfluid is composed of resins, linseed oil, glycer-\nine and powdered wood charcoal. Heat and\nmix thoroughly. Heat the steel to a fine,\nbright cherry red and drop in the fluid and let\nit remain until cold. Burnt cast steel regains\nits properties when hardened in this fluid.\nTaps and Dies, to Harden.— A writer in the\nChicago Journal of Commerce gives his experi-\nence in tempering as follows\nThe great difficulty in hardening tools is prin-\ncipally their liability to twist or get out of\ntrue; second, cracking (especially if large)\nafter hardening; thirdly, getting the right\ntemper. In our factory we use a great nunber\nof small taps and rimers; some of the rimers\nare 9 in. long and quarter of an inch in diame-\nter; these we harden very successfully, not\nmore than one out of a dozen being out of\ntrue. Our plan is as follows: First, carefully\nselect your steel; let it be of the best cast,\nwith a medium grain (a fine grained steel will\nbreak when much less force is applied than a\ncoarser grained, and, although it will take a\nkeener edge, it will not resist the strain re-\nquired by a tap or rimer). Next center it, and\nturn off the scale and soften. The object of\nsoftening after the scale is removed is to make\nthe grain of the steel equal throughout; if it\nbe softened with the scale on, it will generally\ncast. To soften, inclose the articles in a piece\nof gas tube, filling up with wrought iron turn-\nings and plugging the ends with clay, making\nthe whole red hot and allowing it to cool very\nslowly— i. e., leaving it in hot ashes all night.\nThis method makes the steel very soft, and\nequalizes the grain. After softening turn up\nthe work, taking care not to bend it or\nstraighten it, should it have cast, as it probably\nwill in the process of softening. The reason\nfor this is that, if the steel be bent or ham-\nmered, the grain will be closer in one place\nthan another, and heat has a great tendency to\nbring it back to its original position. The next\nthing after finishing your tool is to harden it;\nfirst slightly heat it over a gas or other flame,\nand rub it all over with a mixture of Castile\nsoap and lampblack. This is to prevent the\nedges from being burnt. The next is to get\na thick iron pipe (the size we use is 2 in. diame-\nter and three-fourths bore). This is well filled\nup with taps or rimers and charcoal dust, the\nends being closed with clay as before. This is\nplaced in the furnace and occasionally turned,\nuntil it is one uniform heat of cherry red, or\non the outside a trifle hotter. It is then care-\nfully removed from the fire, one end of the\nclay knocked off, and the contents allowed to\ndrop perpendicularly into a solution of water,\nchloride of sodium and nitrate of iron; this is\nkept at a temperature of 60°. The articles\nhardened should remain at least a quarter of\nan hour before being removed. This method\nof hardening may be summed up thus: Make\nthe steel of one grain throughout, prevent it\nfrom oxidizing while being heated, allow every\npart to heat at the same time, avoid bending\nwhile hot, and lastly restore, if possible, by\nadding to the loss of carbon caused by heat-\ning.\nHarness. Harness Blackings, Polishes and\nWaterproof Compositions. See Klackings.\nHarness Dressing. The government harness\ndressing is as follows One gal. neatsfoot\noil, 2 lb. Bayberry tallow, 2 lb. beeswax,\n2 lb. beef tallow. Put the above in a pan\nover a moderate fire. When thoroughly dis-\nsolved add 2 qt. castor oil then, while on the\nfire, stir in 1 oz. lampblack. Mix well and\nstrain through a fine cloth to remove sediment,\nlet cool, and you ha^ r e as fine a dressing for\nharness or leather of any kind as can be had.\nHarness Crrease.-Take ammonia soap, 4 parts;\npalm oil, 1 part; ordinary hard soap, 3 parts; so-\nlution of tannin (9 to 16 of tannin in 4 of water)\n1% parts melt the oil and soap together, then\nadd the ammonia soap and the tannin solution\nand thoroughly mix. No more of this grease\nis to be used than the leather will absorb, and\nit should be kept in a stone bottle well corked.\nThe ammonia soap is previously made by heat-\ning olive oil to boiling point, and adding sesqui-\ncarbonate of ammonium until the odor of the\nammonia no longer disappears.\nHarness Oil.— 1. A good oil for farm and\nteam harness is made by melting 3 lb. of beef\ntallow, but do not let it boil, then pour in\ngradually 1 lb. of neatsfoot oil and stir till cold.\nIf properly prepared the grease will be per-\nfectly smooth and soft; if not it will be more or\nless granulated. A little lampblack may be\nused to color.\n2. Melt together 2 oz. asphaltum and 3 oz.\nbeeswax, remove from the fire and add y% oz.\nfine lampblack and 3^ drm of Prussian blue in\nfine powder; then reduce to a thin paste witlx\nneatsfoot oil.\nHarness, Lacquer for. See I^acquers.\nPolish for Harness.— 4 oz. glue, 1\\ pt. vinegar,\n2 oz. gum arabic, pt. black ink, 2 drm. isin-\nglass. Break the glue in pieces, put it in a.\nbasin and pour over it about a pint of the vine-\ngar; let it stand until it becomes perfectly soft.\nPut the gum in another vessel, with the ink,\ntill it is perfectly dissolved; melt the isinglass\nin as much water as will cover it, which may\nbe easily done by placing the cup containing it\nnear the fire about an hour before you want to\nuse it. To mix them, pour the remaining vine-\ngar with the softened glue into a sand pan\nupon a gentle fire, stirring it until it is per-\nfectly dissolved, that it may not burn the bot-\ntom, being careful not to let it reach the boil-\ning point— about 180° F. is the best heat. Next\nadd the gum, let it arrive at about the same\nheat again add the isinglass. Take from the\nfire and pour it off for use. To use it, put as\nmuch as is requited in a saucer; heat it suffi-\nciently to make it fluid, and apply, a thin coat\nwith a piece of dry sponge; if the article is\ndried quickly, either in the sun or by fire, it\nwill have the better polish.\nHarness, Stains or Dyes for. See l yeing\n{Leather).\nHarness, Varnish for. See Varnishes.\nHarps, iEolian.— iEolian harps should be\nmade to fit into a window so as to adjust the\nsash to cause a strong breeze across the strings\nof the instrument. Make the box of thin dry\npine, the top piece or sounding board of extra\nclear stuff about three-sixteenths of an inch\nthick. Sides and bottom can be one-quarter of\nan inch, length two inches shorter than the\nwidth of your window, width ten inches,\ndepth two and a half inches. The ends should\nbe of hard wood, and thick enough at one end\nto hold the eyes or studs for fastening the\nwires or catgut strings. At the other end the\nwood should be thick enough to hold a set of\nviolin keys, if you use catgut; or iron piano\npins, if you use wire, which should be steel.\nTwo bridges of hard wood glued diagonally\nacross each end, for the strings to rest upon.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0276.jp2"},"273":{"fulltext":"Hats.\n261\nHehtograph.\nI f steel wire is used, a round wire should be\niuserted upon each bridge, so that the sounding\nwires will not cut the wood. The rest you may\ng-atber from the sketch. The tuning- should\nbe harmonic, or say thirds, filths and octaves.\nMake about four holes in sound board, one inch\ndiameter, under the strings.\nHats, to Bleach. See Bleaching.\nHats, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nHats, to Dye. See Dyeing.\nHats.\nTo Restore Gloss to a Silk Hat.— When a silk hat\nbecomes wet, or from other causes has lost its\nsmoothness and gloss, cleanse it carefully from\nall dust, then with a silk handkerchief apply\npetroiatum evenly, and smooth down with the\nsame handkerchief until it is dry, smooth and\nglossy. This will make a silk hat look as good\nas new.\nProofing for Felt Hats— It is made of shellac\ndissolved in water by the aid of ammonia.\nHats, Stiffening for— Mix 18 lb. of shellac\nwith lb. salt of tartar (carbonate of potash)\nand 53^ gal. of water. Put in a kettle and boil\ngradually until the shellac is dissolved, when\nthe liquid will be as clear as water. When cold\ndip the hats, and when nearly dry dip in a\nweak solution of acetic or sulphuric acid in\norder to neutralize the potash and cause the\nshellac to set.\nHats, Varnish for. See Varnishes.\nHats, to Waterproof. See Water-\nproofing.\nHay.— Two hundred and seventy cubic feet\n-of new meadow hay and 216 to 243 feet from\nlarge or red stacks will weigh a ton; 297 to 324\ncubic feet of dry clover will weigh a ton.\nHaystacks, Covering for.— Take any\ncoarse fabric, steep it for a few hours in a\nstrong aqueous solution of alum, dry, and coat\nthe upper surface with a thin covering of tar.\nHeadache, Remedies for.— The follow-\ning recipes and suggestions for the treatment\nof different forms of headache are collected\nfrom a variety of trustworthy sources.\n1. Two grn. citrate of caffeine, in capsule,\ntaken every half hour, is a very effectual\nremedy in nervous and sick headache. One or\ntwo doses are often sufficient to give complete\nrelief. The only objection to its use is sleep-\nlessness, which sometimes results if it is taken\nin the evening. It is preferable tc guarana, as\nbeing hardly ever rejected by the stomach.\nThe following, according to Dr. W. W. Car-\npenter, is very effectual in most forms of head-\nache\n2. Muriate of ammonia, 3 drm.; acetate of mor-\nphia, 1 grn.; citrate of caffeine, 30 grn.; aromatic\nspirits of ammonia, 1 drm.; elixir of guarana, 4\noz.; rose water, 4 oz. Mix. Dessertspoonful\nevery ten or twelve minutes.\n3. In nervous headaches, Dr. W. A. Hammond\nstates the value of various drugs as follows\nOxide of zinc is of great value. Ordinary\ndose, 2 grn. three times a day, after meals;\nmaximum dose, 5 grn. It is best given in form\nof pills.\n4. Nux vomica is preferable to strychnia.\nThe dose is J4 g rn after meals. If the patient\nbe chl orotic, it is well to combine a grain of\nreduced iron and M grn. sulphate of quinine.\n5. Bismuth, in the form of subcarbonate, will\noften take the place of oxide of zinc. Dose, 2\ngrn. after each meal. Bismuth probably aids\ndigestion more than any mineral tonic, and is\nof use when there is gastric disturbance.\n6. The bromines are serviceable when the\nnervous system has been irritated; when it is\nexhausted, they do harm.\n7. Phosphorus is very useful in most forms of\nnervous headache. The best results are ob-\ntained from dilute phosphoric acid, in doses of\n30 drops, largely diluted, three times a day, after\neating, or phosphide of zinc, 010 grn., in pill,\nthree times a day.\n8. Arsenic, as a nerve tonic, stands next in\nvalue to zinc. Dose, 5 drops Fowler s solution\nthree times a day, after meals.\n9. Galvanism is sometimes valuable, but by\nno means a specific. The constant current\nshould always be used, being careful to avoid\ntoo great intensity, lest amaurosis be pro-\nduced.\n10. Dr. T. Lauder Brunton, editor of the Lon-\ndon Practitioner, says The administration of a\nbrisk purgative, or small doses of Epsom salts,\nthree times a day, is a most effectual remedy\nfor frontal headache when associated with con-\nstipation; but if the bowels be regular, the\nmorbid processes on which it depends seem to\nbe checked, and the headache removed even\nmore effectually by nitro-muriatic acid diluted,\n10 drops, in a wine glass of water, or bicarb,\nsoda, 10 grn., in water, before meals. If the\nheadache be immediately above the eyebrows,\nthe acid is best; but if it be a little higher up,\nj ust where the hair begins, the soda appears to be\nthe most effectual. At the same time the head-\nache is removed, the feeling of sleepiness and\nweariness, which frequently leads the patients\nto complain that they rise up more tired than\nthey lie down, generally disappears.\n11. A writer to the London Lancet remarks:\nAt the Middlesex Hospital female patients\nwho have suffered many years from sick head-,\nache, evidently of a hereditary character, have\nbeen greatly benefited, if not cured, by the\nadministration of 10 minim doses of tincture of\nIndian hemp, three times daily before the at-\ntacks. This is well worthy of trial in those cases\nof ever-living, never-dying martyrdom-like\nsuffering. 1 Hospital Gazette.\nHeadache, Essences for. See Essences.\nHeadache, Nervous.— Dr. A. L. Hodgdon, of\nVirginia, recommends the following\nAlcohol dilut 4 oz.\nOlei cinnamon 4 min.\nPotas. bromid 5 drm.\nExtr. hyoscyam. fl V/z drm.\nFiat lotio.\nS. One to two teaspoonfuls, if required.\nIt is not disagreeable to take and has no bad\neffects.\nHeadache Liquor.— Ammonia, 4 oz.; camphor,\n2 oz.; oil of anise, 1 oz.; alcohol, 1 lb. Dissolve\nthe camphor and oil of anise in the alcohol and\nthen add the ammonia. Rub on the head.\nHeevenoid,- A rubber composition com-\nposed of caoutchouc and camphor equal parts,\nto which a small proportion of lime and sul-\nphur are added, or glycerine may be substi-\ntuted for the lime. It was patented by H. Ger-\nner, of New York.\nHektograph.— 1. The hektograph, or\ncopying- pad, is very useful in copying writing\nor drawing s when only a limited number of\ncopies is required. A practical hektograph\nmay be prepared according to the following\ndirections:\nSoak an ounce of Cooper s gelatine overnight\nin enough cold water to cover it well, taking\ncare that all the gelatine is swelled. Prepare a\nsalt water bath by dissolving 2 oz. of common\nsalt in 1 pt. of water. Heat 6 or 7 oz. of pure\nglycerine over the salt water bath to a temper-\nature of 200° Fah. Pour off from the gelatine\nall the water remaining unabsorbed and add\nthe gelatine to the hot glycerine. Continue the\nheating for an hour, carefully stirring the mix-\nture occasionally, avoiding as much as possible\nthe formation of bubbles or froth. Finally\nadd 20 drops of oil of cloves to prevent decom-\nposition. The composition is now ready for\npouring Into the vessel designed to hold it\nwhile in use. This vessel may be made espe-\ncially for the purpose, or a shallow cake tin\nmay be used. After the tin is filled with the\ncomposition it must be placed in a level posi-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0277.jp2"},"274":{"fulltext":"IIek.togra.pli.\n363\nHoney.\nHEKTOGKAPH.\ntion, in a cool place, free from dust, and al-\nlowed to remain for at least five hours.\nTo prepare the pad for use it is necessary to\npass a wet sponge lightly over the face of the\ngelatine and allow it to nearly dry before tak-\ning the first copy. If this precaution is neg-\nlected the face of the pad will be ruined by the\nfirst transfer.\nThe writing or drawing to be copied must be\nmade with hektograph ink, using a new steel\npen. (For ink, see Inks, Hektograph.) After\nthe writing becomes dry it is placed face down\non the pad and rubbed gently on the back to\ninsure the perfect contact of every part. After\nremaining on the pad for about a minute re-\nmove the original and proceed to take the\ncopies by placing the paper on the pad and re-\nmoving it therefrom, always beginning at the\ncorner, as shown in the engraving.\nAfter taking the desired number of copies or\nwhen the impression is exhausted, the pad is to\nbe washed lightly with a sponge wet in cold\nwater. The pad is then allowed to dry before\nbeing used again. The washing is unnecessary\nwhen the pad is left unused for two or three\ndays, as the ink will be absorbed so as not to\ninterfere with making a new transfer.\nThe pad unavoidably wastes away in use. If\nits surface should become uneven or should it\nbe injured in any way, it can be restored\nby reheating it over the salt water bath and\nallowing it to cool as before described.\nFailure in making the hektograph results\nfrom either of the following causes: Inatten-\ntion to the instructions; insufficient heating\nof the composition; the use of too much\nglycerine, which prevents gelatinization. The\nobvious remedy for the last difficulty is to use\nless glycerine or more gelatine.\nNo. 3 (kaolin formula) is recommended, as the\ncomposition gelatinizes quickly.\n3. The following is a composition by Le-\nbacque\nGelatine. 100 parts.\nWater. 375 parts.\nGlycerine 375 parts.\nKaolin CO parts.\n3. Also one by W. Warfcha\nGelatine 100 parts.\nDextrine 100 parts.\nGlycerine 1,000 arts.\nBarium sulphate q. s.\n4. Good ordinary\nglue 100 parts.\nGlycerine 50\nBarium sulphate\n(finely pow-\ndered.) 35 parts.\nWater 375 parts.\n5. French Ministry of Public\nWorks\nGlue 100 parts\nGlycerine. 50»t\nFinely powdered\nkaolin or baric\nsulphate.. 3? parts\nWater 375 arts\nFor ink a concentrated so-\nlution of Paris violet is re-\ncommended.\nTo remove old copy from\npad, a little muriatic acid is\nadded to the water.\n6. For a tin dish 7 X 11 i.:\nGlue ;j z\nGlycerine 15 oz.\nKaolin M oz.\nWater 11 y 4 oz.\n3u oz.\n7. Hektograph Sheets.—\nSoak 4 parts of best white\nglue in a mixture of 5 parts\nof water and 3 parts of solution of ammo-\nnia, until the glue is soft. Warm the mix-\nture until the glue is dissolved and add\n3 parts of granulated sugar and 8 parts of\nglycerine, stirring well and letting come to\nthe boiling point. While hot, paint it upon\nwhite blotting paper with a broad copying\nbrush, until the paper is thoroughly soaked\nand a thin coating remains on the surface.\nAllow it to dry for two or three days, and it is\nthen ready for use. An aniline ink should be\nused for writing, and before transferring to\nthe blotting paper, wet the latter with a\ndamped sponge and allow it to stand one or\ntwo minutes. Then proceed to make copies in\nthe ordinary way. If the sheets are laid aside\nfor two days, the old writing sinks in and does\nnot require to be washed off Cheni. and Drug.\n8. Hektograph, Composition for. Soak 3\nparts best glue or gelatine in cold water over-\nnight. Pour off the excess of water. Warm\nthe glue in a water bath and add 30 to 34 parts\nof glycerine, 8 to 13 parts finely ground heavy\nspar or barytes, 3 parts dextrine. Mix thor-\noughly, stirring constantly. Pour the melted\nmixture in a shallow pan and allow it to cool.\nLess glycerine should be used in warm weather.\nHektograph Ink. See Inks.\nHeterogeneous Metal. See Alloys.\nHides.— Buffalo Hides, to Soften.— Apply cod\noil or dubbing, either of which can be obtained\nat a currier s shop. See also Tanning.\nHides, Carbolic Acid used to Preserve- An im-\nmersion of hides for twenty-four hours in a\ntwo per cent, solution of Carbolic acid, and sub-\nsequently drying them, has been successfully\nsubstituted for process of salting.\nDepilating Hides, Process for.— Make a dilute\nsolution of ammonia and sulphurous acid and\nplace the hides in it. Coat wooly hides on the\nflesh side with a paste made of potter s clay\nand the above solution. The salts of ammonia\nmay be used.\nHoney, Artificial.— 1. Five lb. white sugar,\n3 lb. water; gradually bring to a boil and\nskim well. When cool add 1 lb. bees honey\nand 4 drops peppermint. To make of better\nquality add less water and more real honey.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0278.jp2"},"275":{"fulltext":"Honey.\n363\nHorseradish.\n2. Soft water, 6 lb.; pure best honey, 3 lb.;\nwhite moist sugar, 20 lb.; cream of tartar, 80\ngrn.; essence of roses, 24 drops. Mix the above\nin a I rass kettle, boil over a charcoal fire five\nmil es, take it off, add the whites of two eggs\nwell beaten; when almost cold, add 2 lb. more\nhoney. A decoction of slippery elm will im-\nprc s the honey if it be added while cooling,\nbut t will ferment in warm weather and rise to\nthe nivf ace.\na ^ake 15 lb. Havana sugar, 61b. water, 60\ngrn cream tartar, 15 drops essence of pepper-\nmint, 4j^ lb. honey; dissolve the sugar in the\nwater over a moderate fire, take off the scum;\ndissolve tne cream tartar in a little warm water,\nadd, stirring; then add the honey heated to the\nboiling point, then the essence of peppermint.\nStir a few minutes, let it cool.\nHoney, Clarified.-Refined Honey, Strain-\ned Honey.— Clarified honey is less agreeable\nthan raw honey, but it is less liable to ferment.\nOn the large scale one or other of the following\nplans is adopted\n1. The honey is mixed with an equal weight\nof water and allowed to boil up five or six\ntimes without skimming; it is then removed\nfrom the fire, and after been cooled, brought\non several strong linen strainers stretched hor-\nizontally and covered with a layer of clean and\nwell washed sand, an inch in depth; the sand is\nrinsed with a little cold water and the mixed\nliquor is finally evaporated to the thickness of\nsirup.\n2. Dissolve the honey in water as last, clarify\nwith white of egg and evaporate to a proper\nconsistence.\n3. Dissolve in water, add V/% lb. of animal\ncharcoal to every J4 cwt. of honey, gently sim-\nmer for fifteen minutes, add a little chalk to\nsaturate excess of acid, if required, strain or\nclarify and evaporate.\n4. Honey, 1 cwt.; water, 9 gal.; fresh burned\nanimal charcoal, 71b.; simmer for 15 minutes,\nadd a little chalk to saturate free acid (if re-\nquired), strain or clarify, and evaporate as be-\nfore.\n5. To every 14 lb. of honey add lb. animal\ncharcoal; simmer gently for fifteen minutes,\nadd a little chalk to saturate excess of acid.\nStrain and evaporate.\nHooey, Method of Purifying (Vogel).—\nBeat 5 lb. of honey with the white of one egg\ntill it froths, add water until the mixture is of\nthe consistency of sirup. Next boil until the\nwhite of egg can be skimmed off. Pour into a\nvessel which has a faucet near the bottom; let\nit settle for some weeks, then draw off the pure\nhoney.\nHoneys. See Cosmetics.\nHoney Water. See Waters.\nHop Beer. See Beers.\nHops and Hop Stalks.— In Sweden a\nstrong cloth is manufactured from hop stalks.\nThe stalks are gathered in autumn and soaked\nin water during the whole winter. The ma-\nterial is then dried in an oven and woven as\nflax. The buds of hops can be used as an es-\nculent, and when boiled will do as a substitute\nfor asparagus. The tendrils, when young, may\nbe used in the same way.— American Artisa/n,\n1875.\nHops, Tincture of.— Tincture of hops is\nmade by taking 5 troy oz. hops in powder, and\na sufficient quantity of diluted alcohol. Moisten\nthe powder with 2 oz. of the alcohol, pack in a\ncylindrical percolator, and pour diluted alco-\nhol on till 2 pints tincture are obtained.\nHorn, to Dye. See Dyeing.\nHorns, to Polish. See Polishing.\nHorn, to Stain. See Staining.\nHorn.— Welding Horn. —Pieces of horn may\nbe joined by heating the edges until they are\nquite soft, and pressing them together until\nthey are cold.\nSoftening Horn.— The bony core of the horn is\nfirst removed, the next process is to cut off with\na saw the tip of the horn— that is, the whole of\nits solid part, which is used by the cutlers for\nknife handles and sundry other purposes. The\nremainder of the horn is left entire, or is sawn\nacross into lengths, according to the use to\nwhich it is destined. Next it is immersed in\nboiling water for half an hour, by which it is\nsoftened, and while hot is held in the\nflame of a coal or wood fire; taking care\nto bring the inside as well as the outside\nof the horn, if from an old animal, in contact\nwith the blaze. It is kept here till it acquires\nthe temperature of molten lead or there-\nabout, and in consequence becomes very\nsoft. In this state it is slit lengthwise by a\nstrong pointed knife like a pruning knife, and\nby means of two pairs of pincers, applied one to\neach edge of the slit, the cylinder is opened\nnearly flat. The degree of compression is regu-\nlated by the use to which the horn is afterward\nto be put. When it is intended for leaves of\nlanterns, the pressure is to be sufficiently strong\n(in the language of the workmen) to break the\ngrain, by which is meant separating in a\nslight degree the lamina? of which it is com-\nposed, so as to allow the round pointed knife\nto be introduced between them, in order to\neffect a complete separation. For combs the\nplates of horn should be pressed as little as pos-\nsible, so that the teeth may not split at the\npoints. They are shaped chiefly by means of\nrasps and scrapers of various forms, after hav-\ning been roughed out by a hatchet or saw the\nteeth are cut by a double saw fixed in a back,\nthe two plates being set to different depths, so\nthat the first cuts the teeth only half way\ndown, and is f oUowed by the other, which cuts\nthe whole length; the teeth are then finished\nand pointed by triangular rasps. Horn for\nknife handles is sawn into blanks, slit, pared,\nand partially shaped then heated in water and\npressed between dies. It is af terward scraped,\nbuffed, and polished.\nHorns, Buffalo.— To Color the Brown\nStreaks Black on Buffalo Horns, after they have\nbeen Polished. Apply a dilute solution of\nnitrate of silver with a brush or rag several\ntimes, until the desired intensity is obtained.\nAllow it after each application to dry in the\nsun perfectly before applying the next coat.\nPolish when sufficiently black.\nHorse Power, very Rough Way of\nEstimating.— The power of a steam engine\nis calculated by multiplying together the area\nof the piston in inches, the mean steam pres-\nsure in lb. per square inch, the length of stroke\nin feet, and the number of strokes per minute,\nand dividing the product by 33,000.\nHorse Power of Steam Engines.—\nMultiply the square of the diameter of the\ncylinder in inches by 0*7854, and this product by\nthe mean engine pressure, and the last product\nby the piston travel in feet per minute. Divide\nthe last product by 33,000 for the indicated horse\npower. In the absence of logarithmic formu-\nlas or expansion table, multiply the boiler pies-\nsure for cut off by 0*91— for ]4 cut off by 0*85,\ncut off by 0 75, 3-10 cut off by 0*68. This will\ngive the mean engine pressure per square inch\nnear enough for ordinary practice, for steam\npi-essures between 60 and 100 lb., always re-\nmembering that the piston travel is twice the\nstroke multiplied by the number of revolu-\ntions per minute.\nHorseradish, to Bottle.— Six table-\nspoonfuls scraped or grated horseradish, 1\ntablespoon! ul white sugar, 1 qt. vinegar. Scald\nthe vinegar; pour boiling hot over the horse-\nradish. Steep a week, strain, and bottle. Ex-\nposure to the air will discolor.\nHosteller s Bitters. See Bitter?.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0279.jp2"},"276":{"fulltext":"Huile.\n264\nIce Cream,\nHuile Jjiguereuse, etc. See Liquors,\nHungary Water. See Waters.\nHunyadi Water. See Waters.\nHydraulic Cement. See Cements.\nHydrochinon ^Developer. See Pho-\ntography.\nHydrogen.— By treatment of iron or zinc\nscrap with dilute sulphuric acid. This is the\nusual way on a small scale. On the larger scale\nit may be made by passing steam over red hot\niron scrap.\nHydrographic Paper. See Paper.\nHydroxides. Many oxides, both basic and\nacid, are acted upon by water, frequently pro-\nducing much heat, uniting with great energy.\nThese compounds are called hydroxides, and\ncontain hydrogen and oxygen, the elements\nwithout existing as water, as KOH.\nHydroxylamine Developer. See Pho-\ntography.\nHypo, Test for. See Photography.\nHypophosphites, Fellows Sirup of\nthe.\nSoluble phosphate or pyrophos-\nphate of iron (U. S. P.) 15 grn.\nHypophosphite of sodium 45 grn.\nSulphate of quinine 5 grn.\nStrychnine, previously dissolved. J^ grn.\nHypophosphite or sulphate of\nmanganese 15 grn.\nThick sirup 16 oz.\nDissolve the salts by gentle heat, but without\nacid.\nIce, Camphor. See Camphor Ice.\nIce Cream.— Almond or Orgeat Ice Cream.—\nOne qt. cream, 8 oz. sweet almonds, 2 oz. bitter\nalmonds, 12 oz. sugar, 2 oz. orange flower water;\nblanch the almonds and pound quite fine in a\nmortar, using the orange flower water to pre-\nvent their oiling; rub through a sieve and\npound again the portion which has not passed\nthrough until fine enough; mix with the cream\nand make into a custard with 7 yelks of eggs;\nstrain, and when cold freeze.\nApple Water Ice.— Pare and core some fine\napples, cut in pieces into a preserving pan with\nsufficient water for them to float, boil until re-\nduced to a marmalade, strain; to 1 pt. apple\nwater add J^pt. sirup, juice of a lemon and a lit-\ntle water; when cold freeze.\nApricot (Fresh Fruit).— 1. 24 fine ripe apricots,\n1 qt. cream, 12 oz. sugar, the juice of 2 lemons,\nwith a few of the kernels blanched; mash the\napricots, rub through a sieve, mix and freeze.\n2. From Jam.— 12 oz. jam, 1 qt. cream, the\njuice of 2 lemons, 8 oz. sugar, a few kernels or\nbitter almonds blanched and pounded fine; rub\nthe whole through a sieve and freeze.\nApricot Water Ice.— 18 or 20 fine ripe apricots,\nyj pt. sirup, Y pt. water, juice of 2 lemons; mash\nthe apricots, pass through a sieve, mix the pulp\nwith the sirup, water and lemon juice, break\nthe stones, blanch the kernels, pound fine with\na little water, pass through a sieve, add to the\nmixture and freeze.\nBarberry. Same proportions as currants.\nSoften fresh barberries by boiling in the sirup\nyou intend to use, or put in a stewpan and stir\nover the fire until tender; pass through a sieve,\nmix and freeze as raspberry. Barberries re-\nquire no lemon juice.\nBiscuit Cream.— Crumble some Savoy biscuits\nand a few ratafias, add the rind of two lemons\nrubbed on sugar, and mix with the cream when\nfrozen.\nBrown Bread Ice. Make I qt. custard for ice,\ncrumble a piece of brown bread quite fine, put\non a tin and dry just inside the mouth of the\noven or in a very hot stove; freeze the cream;\nand when the bread is cold, work or stir it in.\nBurnt Almond Ice Cream.— As filbert (2).\nBurnt Ice Cream.— To 1 qt. custard for ice put\ninto a stewpan 4 oz. powdered sugar; place by\nthe side of the stove, or over the lire t3 melt\nand burn fine brown, stirring constan!;ly,when\nthe proper color, mix the custard quicklv with\nit; when cold, freeze.\nCherry Ice Cream.— 2 lb. cherries, 1 qt. cream,\n12 oz. sugar or sirup; pound the cherries, with\nthe stones, in a mortar, adding a few ripe goose-\nberries or currants, pass the pulp through a\nsieve, add the cream and sugar, juice of two\nlemons and a little cochineal; mix and f reeze.\nFrom preserved fruit it is made the samr\nadding a little noyau, or a few bitter aln\npounded for the flavor of the kernel.\nCherry Water Ice.— 2 lb. cherries, 4 oz. ripe\ngooseberries, 1 pt. sirup, Y pt. water, food\ncolor and without any lumps in it. Those\ntaining too much sirup cannot be frozen to the\ndegree required, and those with toolittlefi\nhard, and feel short and crisp likecompj.\nor frozen snow, which arises from havnu\nmany watery particles, by the excess of v\nor milk. It may be ascertained when f re\ncommences, by the first coat which is for\nround the sides. It should then be altered by\neither adding more cream or water, with juice\nor pulp of fruit, or other flavoring matter, in\nproportion, as the case may be, if too rich,\nand vice versa, by the addition of more\nsirup, etc., when poor; but at all times the\nnecessity of altering should be avoided, as\nthe component parts cannot be so peri\nblended without considerable extra labor,\nas if they were properly mixed at the com-\nmencement. During the freezing, or after\nthe creams are moulded and set up, if there is\ntoo much water in the pail, the frigorific power\nis lessened; a little increases it, as at first it is\nonly a solution of the salt; but as the ice dis-\nsolves and mixes with it, it decreases; there-\nfore, when it comes to the top, drain the water\noff and fill up with fresh salt and ice. When\nthe ices are properly frozen take out the pots,\ndrain off the water, empty the pail; again re-\nplace and fill with fresh salt and ice as before,\nspread the creams over the sides of the pot,\nwhen they are ready for use, if intended to be\nserved in a shop or by glassf uls. For moulds\nline the bottom with a piece of paper before\nyou put it on; if there is no impi ession or\nfigure on the top, you may cover that also with\npaper; in filling press well in, so .as to fill\nevery part; leave a little projecting above the\nsurface to form the ton, which you put on;\npack the moulds in a pail, and fill the vacancies\nwith pounded ice well mixed with plenty of\nsalt; strew a handful also on the top. Ices\nshould be moulded 3^ to 1 hour before they are\nserved. To turn them out, wash the mould\nwell in cold water, that no salt may remain on;\ntake off the bottom and top and the ice will\ncome out freely.\nCustard for Ices.—l qt. cream, 6 eggs, 12 oz.\npowdered loaf sugar, break the eggs into a\nstewpan and whisk together; add the cream\nand sugar; when well mixed, place on the fire\nand continue stirring from the bottom with\nthe whisk, to prevent burning, until it gets\nthick; take from the fire, continue to stir for\na few minutes and pass through a sieve. If the\ncustard be suffered to boil it will curdle.\nCustard Ices. These resemble cream ices,\nwith the addition of 6 eggs to each qt. of cream,\nor 8 if part milk is used. All kinds of nuts,\nliqueurs, essences, infusions or biscuits are\nprincipally mixed with it.\nOrange Water Ice.— One pt. China orange\njuice, 1 pt. sirup, Y pt. water, juice of 4 large\nlemons. Rub the yellow rind of 4 oranges and\n2 lemons on sugar, scrape off, and mix with the\nstrained juice, sirup and water.\nPeach.— As apricot.\nPeach Water Ice.— One lb. pulp of ripe peaches,\nY pt. sirup, Y% Pt- water, juice of 2 lemons.\nMix as apricot. If the fruit is not ripe enough\nto pulD. open and take out the stones, put in a","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0280.jp2"},"277":{"fulltext":"Ice Cream.\n265\nIce Cream.\nstewpan with the sirup and water, boil until\ntender, and pass through a sieve; mix in the\npounded kernels; when cold, freeze.\nPear Water Ice.— As apple.\nPineapple.— 1. Fresh fruit— 1 lb. fresh pine-\napple. pt. sirup in which a pine has been pre-\nserved, 2 or 3 slices pineapple cut in small dice,\njuice of 3 lemons; pound or grate the pineap-\nple, pa.S9»through a sieve, mix with 1 qt. cream,\nand freeze.\n2, reserved fruit— 8 oz. preserved pineap-\nple, i qt. cream, juice of 3 lemons, sufficient\npint sirup to sweeten it; pound the preserved\npine, mix lemons with the creani, and freeze.\nPinmpple Water Ice.— I. Half pt. pine sirup,\n1 pt. water, juice of 2 lemons, 3 or 4 slices pre-\nserved pine cut into small dice; mix and\nfreeze.\n2. Fresh— 1 lb. pineapple, 1 pt. sirup, Yz pt.\nwater, juice of 2 lemons. Cut the pine in\npieces, put into a stewpan with the sirup and\nwater, and boil until tender; pass through a\nsieve, add the lemon juice with 2 or 3 slices of\nthe pine cut in small dice; mix, and when cold,\nfreeze.\nPistachio Ice Cream.— One qt. cream, 8 oz.\npistachios, 12 oz. sugar; blanch and pound the\npistachios with a little of the cream; mix and\nfinish as orgeat, flavoring with essence of\ncedrat, or the rind of a fresh citron rubbed en\nsugar; or the custard may be flavored by boil-\ning in it a little cinnamon and mace and the\nrind ot a lemon; color with spinach.\nPunch Water Ice.— Make a good lemon ice, or\nuse some orange juice with the lemons, in the\nproportion of 1 orange to 2 lemons; either rub\noft the yellow rind of the lemons on sugar or\npare it very thin, and soak it in the spirit for\na few hours; When the ice is beginning to set,\nwork in the whites of 3 eggs to each qt.. beaten\nto a strong froth, and mixed with sugar as for\nmeringue, or add the whites without whisking.\nWhen nearly frozen, take the pot from the ice,\nand mix well with it some rum and brandy\n(the prevailing flavor distinguishes it as rum\npunch or brandy punch ice); after the spirit is\nwell mixed, replace the pot and finish freezing.\nChampagne, arrack, or tea may be added.\nRaspberry.— 1. Fresh fruit— lqt. raspberries,\n1 qt. cream, to 1 lb. sugar; a few ripe cur-\nrants and gooseberries or cherries may be\nadded, instead of all raspberries, and the juice\nof two lemons; mash the fruit, pass through\na sieve to take out skins and seeds, mix with\nthe other articles, add a little prepared cochi-\nneal to heighten the color, put it in the pot,\nand freeze. All ices made with red fruit re-\nquire this addition of cochineal.\n2. Jam— 1 lb. jam, 1 qt. cream, about 6 oz.\nsugar or sirup, and the juice of 2 lemons. Mix\nas before.\nRaspberry Water Ice.— One qt. ripe raspber-\nries, 4 oz. ripe cherries and currants, Y, pt.\nsirup, Y pt. water, juice of 2 lemons. Mash\nthe fruit, pass the juice through a sieve, mix\nthe sirup, water and lemon with it, and freeze.\nRatafia Cream.— One qt. cream, as for brown\nbread. 6 or 8 oz. ratafia cakes crumbled quite\nfine, mix with the cream when frozen.\nRoman Punch Ice.— Make 1 qt. lemon ice, and\nflavor with rum, brandy, champagne, and Ma-\nraschino; when frozen, to each quart take the\nwhites of 3 eggs, and whip to a very strong\nfroth; boil Y, lb. sugar to the ball, and rub it\nwith a spoon or spatula against the sides to\ngrain it; when it turns white, mix quickly\nwith the white of egg, stir lightly together,\nwhen cold add to the ice; mix well together,\nand serve in glasses; less sugar must be used\nin the ice, so as to allow for that which is used\nin making the meringue.\nDamson lce.—l. 1 qt. damsons,l pt. sirup, Y pt.\nwater. Mix as peach ice. Magnum bonums,\nOrleans, greengages, or any other plum may be\ndone in the same way.\nFilbert Ice Cream.— 1 qt. cream, 1 lb. nuts,\n12 oz. sugar or 1 pt. sirup; break the nuts, roast\nthe kernels in the oven; pound with a little\ncream, make a custard, and finish as almond\nice. 2. Burnt. Same proportions; put the\nkernels into the sirup, boil until they crack;\nstir the sugar with a spatula, that it may grain\nand adhere to the nuts; when cold, pound with\nthe sugar quite fine; make a custard and mix\nthem with it, allowing for the sugar that is\nused for the nuts; mix and freeze as the others.\nGinger.— Six oz. preserved ginger, 1 qt. cream,\nY pt. of the sirup from the ginger, sufficient\nsugar to sweeten with, juice of 2 lemons; pound\nthe ginger in a mortar, add the cream and\nfreeze.\nGooseberry Water Ice.— Two lb. ripe gooseber-\nries (red hairy sort), 1 lb. cherries, 1 pt. sirup, 1\npt. water, juice of 2 lemons; mash the fruit, pass\nthrough a sieve, mix with the sirup and\nwater, and freeze.\nLemon Ice Cream.— Six large lemons, 1 qt.\ncream, and 12 oz. sugar, or Y pt. sirup; grate\nthe peels of 3 lemons into a basin, squeeze the\njuice to it, let stand for 2 or 3 hours, strain,\nadd the cream and sirup, and freeze or mix as\norange.\nLemon Water Ice.— Half pt. lemon juice,^ pt.\nwater, 1 pt. sirup, peels of 4 lemons rubbed on\nsugar (or the yellow rind pared or grated off,\nand the juice squeezed to it in a basin), let re-\nmain for an hour or two, strain, mix, and\nfreeze; whip the whites of 3 eggs to a strong\nfroth, with a little sugar, as for meringues;\nwhen the ice is beginning to set, work well in;\nfreeze to required consistence; if to be served\nin glasses, the meringue niay be added after it\nhas been frozen.\nLiqueur Cream Ice.—l. As noyau, flavor\nwith the different liqueurs from which each is\nnamed. 2. Put 1 qt. cream into the ice pot\nwith 6 oz. sugar, which place in the ice; work\nwell about the sides with a wmisk for about 5\nminutes; add a glassful of liqueur, work to-\ngether; whisk the whites of 2 eggs to a strong\nfroth, add 2 oz. sugar, mix well with the cream\nand freeze to the required consistence.\nLiqueur Water fee.— Lemon ice, using less\nwater, and making up the deficiency with\nliqueur; if thetaste of the lemon prevails too\nmuch, add more water and sirup to correct.\nMitte Fruit Ice Cream. Flavor a lemon\ncream ice with elder flowers, mix in some pre-\nserved dried fruits and peels cut in small pieces.\nBefore it is moulded, sprinkle with prepared\ncochineal, and mix a little, that it may appear\nmarbled.\nMille Fruit Water Ice.— Make a good lemon\nice, with 1 pt. sirup, Yz pt. water, and as much\nstrained lemon juice as will give the desired\nflavor, with some elder flowers infused in\nsirup; when frozen, add some preserved green\nfruits and peels cut into small dice; sprinkle\nwith prepared cochineal, and mix in a little to\ngive a veined appearance.\nNoyau Cream Ice.— Custard cream, and\nflavor with noyau; finish as almond ice.\nOrange Ice Cream.— I. Six Seville oranges, 3\nlemons, 1 qt. cream, 12 oz. sugar or sirup; rub\nthe yellow rind of 2 or 3 of the oranges on part\nof the sugar, scrape off with a knife, squeeze\nout the juice of the oranges and lemons, and\nstrain; mix with the cream and the sugar on\nwhich the rind was rubbed, add the other part\nof the sugar, dissolve, and freeze. 2. 8 China\noranges, 2 lemons, 1 qt. cream, 12 oz. sugar; rub\nthe rind of 4 or 5 of the oranges and 1 lemon on\nsugar, squeeze, strain the juice; add the cream,\nmix, and freeze.— W. R.\nVanilla Ice Cream.— Cream, 2 qts.; sugar, \\y 2\nlb.; yelks of 1 dozen eggs; the whites of 2 eggs;\nvanilla bean, or stick, a sufficient quantity, say\nVz of a bean grated very fine; lemon peel, a\nsmall piece. The liquid flavoring may be used,\nbut the product is not as fine as the Delmonico\nmade by using the bean.\nStrawberry. —As raspberry.\nStrawberry Water Ice.— Two bottles best scar-\nlet pines, 1 pt. sirup, Ya pt. water, juice of 2\ni!","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0281.jp2"},"278":{"fulltext":"Ice, to Store.\n266\nIncrustation.\nlemons. Mix as currant. All red fruits require\na little prepared cochineal to heighten the\ncolor.\nSwiss Pudding.— Take 1% pt. cream and pt.\nmilk and make into a custard with 7 yelks of\neggs; flavor with curacoa, Maraschino, or rum;\nfreeze the custard and add about %_ lb. dried\ncherries, orange, lemon and citron peel and\ncurrants; mix in the iced custard. The curacoa\nor rum may be poured over the fruit when you\ncommence freezing or before. Prepare the\nmould, which is melon shaped, opening in the\ncenter with a hinge. Stre v over the inside\nwith clean currants, fill and close immerse in\nsome fresh ice mixed with salt. Before turning-\nout, prepare a dish as follows: Make a little\ncustard and flavor with brandy dissolve some\nisinglass in water or milk, and when nearly\ncold add sufficient to the custard to set it pour\ninto the dish you intend to serve on. As soon\nas set, turn the pudding on it and serve.\nTea Ice.— 1 qt. cream, 2 oz. best green tea, 12\noz. sugar; put the tea into a cup, pour on a\nlittle cold river water in which has been dis-\nsolved a portion of carbonate of soda (about as\nmuch as may be placed on a ten cent piece),\nlet remain for an hour or two, add boiling-\nwater sufficient to make a very strong infusion\nor cold water in proportion, letting it soak\nlonger, when a superior infusion will be ob-\ntained strain and add to the cream and eggs.\nFinish as the others.\nVanilla Ice.— One qt. cream, oz. vanilla, 12\noz. sugar cut the vanilla into small pieces and\npound with the sugar until quite fine add to\ncream and eggs, make into a custard, strain and\nwhen cold freeze.\nIce, to Store.— 1. Build a round brick well,\nwith a small grating for drain at bottom for the\nescape of water from melted ice. Cover the\nbottom with a thick layer of good wheat straw.\nPack the ice in layers of ice and straw. Fix a\nwooden cover to the well.\n2. Fire-brick, from its feeble conducting\npower, is the best material to line an ice house\nwith. The house is generally made circular\nand larger at the top than the bottom, where a\ndrain should be provided to run off any water\nthat may accumulate. As small a surface of\nice as possible should be exposed to the atmos-\nphere tneref ore each piece of ice should be\ndipped in water before stowing away, which, by\nthe subsequent freezing of the pieces into one\nmass, will remain unmelted for a long time.\n3. A very cheap way of storing ice has been\ndescribed by Pearson of Kinlet. The ice stack\nis made on sloping ground close to the pond\nwhence the ice is derived. The ice is beaten\nsmall, well rammed, and gradually worked up\ninto a cone or mound 15 ft. high, with a base of\n27 ft., and protected by a compact covering of\nfern 3 ft. thick. A dry situation and sloping-\nsurface are essential with this plan and a small\nditch should surround the heap, to carry rap-\nidly away any water that may come from\nmelted ice or other sources.\n4. Put the ice on a dish and cover it with a nap-\nkin, then set the dish upon a feather bed or\npillow, and place another bed or pillow on the\ntop of it. In this way a few lbs. of ice may be\nkept for a week or more. Wrap the ice in a\npiece of old flannel, and if not required imme-\ndiately bury it in the ground.\nIce, Strength of.—\nIce 2 in, thick will bear infantry.\nIce 4 in. thick will bear cavalry or light guns\nIce 6 in. thick will bear heavy field guns.\nIce 8 in. thick will bear 24-pounder guns on\nsledges; weight not over 1000 lb. to a square\nfoot.\nIceland Moss.— A lichen that grows in ex-\nposed places in Iceland. Its use in the arts is\nlimited.\nIceland Moss, Saccharated Iceland Moss, 1\nlb.; refined sugar, lib.; macerate the moss in\nwater to extract the bitterness, express, boil in\nwater for an hour, strain, let settle, decant,\nadd the sugar, evaporate to dryness with a\ngentle heat, constantly stirring, and finally re-\nduce to powder.\nImperial.— Syn. Imperial Di jak.— 1. Cream\nof tartar, oz.; fresh orange Ox lemon peel, 3\noz.; lump sugar, 4 oz.; boiling water, 3 pts.;\ndigest in a close vessei until cold, then pour off\nthe clear.\n2. (Collier). To the last add cream of tartar,\n\\i oz., and sweeten to palate. Refrigerant a\ncommon drink in fevers and in hot weather.\nImpressions, Metal, lor Taking. See\nAlloys.\nImpression.— A verg good impression of\nany article of metal having a flat ornamented\nsurface may be taken by wetting some note\npaper with the tongue, and smokiag it over a\ngas flame. The article is then press 3d upon the\nsmoked part, when, if the operation be care-\nfully conducted, a clear impression will appear.\nThis can be made permanent by drawing the\npaper through milk, and afterward drying it.\nIncense. See Pastils.\nIncense Powders. See Pastils.\nIncineration.— The reduction of organic\nsubstances to ashes. An example of this is the\nmanufacture of charcoal, ivory black, etc.\nIncrustation of Boilers.— Remedies for.\nRemedies that have been adopted with more\nor less success for boiler incrustation\n1. Potatoes, weight of water, prevent ad-\nherence of scale.\n2. Twelve parts salt. 2,% caustic soda, ex-\ntract of oak bark, y Q of potash,\n3. Pieces of oak wood suspended in boiler\nand renewed monthly, prevent deposit.\n4. Two oz. muriate of ammonia in boiler\ntwice a week prevents incrustation and decom-\nposes scale.\n5. Coating of 3 parts black lead, 18 tallow, ap-\nplied hot to the inside of a boiler every few\nweeks, prevents scale.\n6. Thirteen lb. molasses fed occasionally into\nan 8-horse boiler prevented incrustation for\nsix months.\n7. Mahogany or oak sawdust in limited quan-\ntities. The tannic acid attacks the iron, and\nshould therefore be used with caution.\n8. Slippery elm bark has been used with some\nsuccess.\n9. Carbonate of soda.\n10. Chloride of tin.\n11. Spent tanners bark.\n12. Frequent blowing off.\n13. Paraffin oil has been used with excellent\nresults in locomotive boilers.\n14. Marine boilers are sometimes protected\nfrom corrosion by a very thin wash of Port-\nland cement inside.— Mechanics 1 Magazine.\nAnti-Incrustators.—M. E. Asselin, of Paris,\nrecommends the use of glycerine to prevent\nincrustation in steam boilers. It increases the\nsolubility of combinations of lime, and espe-\ncially of the sulphate. It forms with these\ncombinations soluble compounds. When the\nquantity of lime becomes so great that it can\nno longer be dissolved, nor from soluble com-\nbinations, it is deposited in a gelatinous sub-\nstance, which never adheres to the surface of\nthe iron plates. The gelatinous substances\nthus formed are not carried with the steam\ninto the cylinder of the engine. M. Asselin ad-\nvises the employment of 1 lb. of glycerine for\nevery 300 or 400 lb. of coal burnt.\nBoiler Incrustation, to Prevent. 1. For a\n5-horse power boiler, fed with water, which\ncontains calcic sulphate, take Catechu, 2 lb.;\ndextrine, 1 lb.; crystallized soda, 2 lb.; potash,\nH lb.; cane sugar, Yz lb.; alum, y lb.; gum\narabic, J^ lb.\n2. For a boiler of the same size, fed with water\nwhich contains lime Turmeric, 2 lb.: dextrine,\n1 lb.; sodium bicarbonate, 2 lb.; potash, y% lb.;\nmolasses, y% lb.; alum, J/£ lb.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0282.jp2"},"279":{"fulltext":"Indelible.\n367\nIndicator.\n3. For a boiler of the same size, fed with\nwater which contains iron: Gamboge, 3 lb.;\nsoda, 3 lb.; dextrine, lib.; potash, lb.; sugar,\nJ^lb.; f lum, Yz lb.; gum arabic, y% lb.\n4. Fo a boiler of the same size fed with sea\nwater Catechu, 3 lb.; Glauber s salt, 3 lb.;\ndextrix i. 2 lb.; alum, ]4 lb.; gum arabic, lb.\nWhei hese preparations are used add 1 qt.\nof wai and in ordinary cases charge the\nboiler i rery month, but if the incrustation is\nvery bad, charge every two weeks.\n5. Incrustations, to Prevent. For\nboilers of 100 horse power fed with river water,\nuse the following, which should be renewed\nwhenever the boiler is emptied: Crystallized\nsoda, 18 lb.; dextrine, 181b.; alum,- 6 lb.; sugar,\n61b.; potash, 31b.\n6. For the same sized boiler, fed with sea\nwater: Soda, 34 lb.; dextrine, 34 lb.; sugar, 13\nlb.; alum, 3 lb., potash, 3 lb.\nIndelible Ink. See Inks.\nIndelible Pencils. See Pencils, In-\ndelible.\nIndex of a Lathe, to Obtain.— How to\nObtain the Index of an Engine Lathe.— If you\nwill note what thread the lathe will cut when\ntwo given gears are in place, you can easily\nconstruct a table that will show you just what\nthread any two gears will cause the lathe to\ncut. Suppose that two sixty-threes cause 13\nthreads to the inch. Then place 13 in the space\nA in the diagram below.\nSTUD.\nt\n_\n28\n33\n35\n42\n49\n56\n63\n70\n77\n84\n91\n98\n105\n113\nf\n38\n33\n35\n43\n49\nb\ns\n56\na\nC\nc\n63\nR\nA\nT)\nK\n70\nFl\nc\nE\n77\n6\nW\n84\n91\n98\n105\nI\n113\nN W, 63 i 70 I! A i E Direct Proportion.\nA1S 70 63 1 I D Averse proportion.\nThe spaces may all be filled except a, b, c, d,\netc., which it is useless to fill, as only your 63\ngear is duplicated. A half day s time will be\nsufficient for a good mathmatician to fill out\nthe table.\nIndexing, a Method of. A writer says:\nHaving had to index twenty-nine thousand\nwords, I think I have a right to speak about it.\nIn the first place, I got hold of a somewhat\nstiffish paper (old ledger paper is excellent);\nthen I cut it into slips of different size (one\ninch by two inches will be about right). I put\ndown on each slip a word or sentence (depend-\ning on the kind of index), with page and other\nreference if such is necessary. When every\nword or sentence which I wanted in the index\nwas noted down, I got hold of twenty-six cigar\nboxes, which I lettered from a to z. I now dis-\ntributed those slips into the boxes. This done,\nI put the contents of each box in a separate\npaper bag, put the now empty boxes again be-\nfore me, got hold of a and distributed all slips\nbearing words beginning with a between these\nboxes, thus, aa, ab, ac, ad, etc to the end of\nthe chapter. This done, I got hold of aa and\nsuccessively ab, ac, etc., and distributed those\nslips further. When arranged alphabetically I\npasted those slips belonging to a in proper\norder on brown wrapping paper. Having\ntreated a in this way, I took hold of b, and so\non to the end of the alphabet. It took me a\nfortnight (six hours a day) to get through with\nthe distribution, and after that the copying\ntook me several months.\nIndia Ink. See Inks.\nIndia Paper. See Paper.\nIndia Rubber, Cement for and India\nRubber Cements. See Cements.\nIndia Rubber, to Preserve.— 1. In the\nopinion of Hempel, the hardening of vulcan-\nized India rubber is caused by the gradual\nevaporation of the solvent liquids contained in\nthe India rubber, and introduced during the\nprocess of vulcanization. Guided by this no-\ntion, he has made experiments for a number\nof years in order to find a method for preserv-\ning the India rubber. He now finds that keep-\ning in an atmosphere saturated with the vapora\nof the solvents answers the purpose. India\nrubber stoppers, tubing, etc., which still possess\nthe elasticity, are to be kept in vessels contain-\ning a dish filled with common petroleum.\nKeeping in wooden boxes is objectionable,\nwhile keeping in airtight glass vessels alone is\nsufficient to preserve India rubber for a long\ntime. Exposure to light should be avoided as\nmuch as possible. Old hard India rubber may\nbe softened again by letting the vapor of car-\nbon bisulphide act upon it. As soon as it has be-\ncome soft, it must be removed from the carbon\nbisulphide atmosphere and kept in the above\nway. Hard stoppers are easily made fit for use\nagain in this manner, but the elastic proper-\ntie s of tubing cannot well be -restored.— Ber.\nChem. Ges. 3. In order to prevent India rubber\nmaterials from hardening and cracking, they\nare steeped in a bath of melted paraffin for a\nfew seconds, or several minutes, in accordance\nwith the size of the articles, and then dried ir\na room heated to about 312° F. See Rubber.\nIndia Rubber Varnish. See Var-\nnishes.\nInfusions. In preparing infusions, as in\nevery other process, in which the object is to\ndissolve out the active principles, the subject\nacted upon should first be brought to such a\ncondition by bruising, grinding, etc., as to en-\nable the solvent medium to act upon it most\nreadily. If an infusion is desired of dried\nleaves or flowers, they should be moistened\nwith a little boiling water, and time allowed\nfor them to swell and soften before adding the\nrest of the water. Infusions are generally\nprepared by pouring boiling water on the sub-\nstance and setting aside in a closed vessel until\nit cools; but either hot or cold water may be\nused according to the nature of the substance\nand the objects to be accomplished. The solu-\nble principles are usually more rapidly and\nthoroughly extracted by hot than cold water,\nand when desirable the temperature may be\nprolonged by placing the vessel near the fire.\nWhen the principle to be extracted is highly\nvolatile, or would be injured by heat, cold\nwater should be used, but the process will\nrequire longer time for completion.\nIndicator Diagrams, Steam Engine^\nA steam engine indicator is an instrument\npossessing a barrel which may be revolved by\nthe stroke of the engine, a coiled spring making\nthe return stroke. A suitable stylus or pencil i£\nactuated by the piston within a closed cylin-\nder, open to the cylinder of the engine to be\ntested. A gauged spring is so arranged as to\nact by its tension against the said piston, and\nthereby render the movement of it proportion-\nate to the pressure. Two dimensions are, there-\nfore, attainable, one (Fig 1), A b, corresponding\nto steam pressure, and the other, b c, corres-\nponding to the stroke. The perpendicular\nordinates a h c, parallel to A B, are constructed\nafter the diagram is taken, and represent p 1","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0283.jp2"},"280":{"fulltext":"Inhalant.\n268\nInks.\nquot parts of the stroke. The line a b is\nmeasured off by a scale, corresponding to the\nFig. 1-\nspring before referred to, and the steam pres-\nsure in lb. per sq. in. may then be read off by\nhorizontal lines, def.\nThe line x y is called the atmospheric line, or\nline of no pressure (zero on the scale), and in\nnon-condensing engines the whole of the dia-\ngram is above the line, but with condensing\nengines the vacuum or exhaust is shown below\nthe line, and must be calculated from the base\nline. Having taken a diagram (see the figure),\nthe length of the ordinates ab c must be taken\nfrom the base to where the described curve\ncuts them, and read off in terms of the scale.\nM mean pressure.\nAB -60-0\na 52 5\nb 45*0\nc 32*5\nCD =12-0\nTotal 202-0\nM 40*5 lb. per sq. in.\nInhalant. See also Vapors.\nCompound tincture iodine.. 180 minims.\nCarbolic acid No. 1 48 minims.\nGlycerine 1 fl. oz.\nWater 5fl. oz.\nMix and expose to the sunlight until the mix-\nture is entirely colorless. The proportion of\ncarbolic acid and tincture of iodine may be\nlargely increased without a corresponding ad-\ndition of glycerine.\nInjecting Fluids. See Microscopy.\nInks. The following collection of ink\nrecipes is very large, and only those have been\nselected which were believed to be trustworthy.\nInk recipes are noted for their unreliability,\nbut the following were selected principally\nfrom periodical literature, and many are trans-\nlated for the first time. The manufacture of\nwriting ink is one of the most promising of\nThe small industries.\nWriting Ink.— There are few chemical prepa-\nrations the use of which has become so general\nas that of writing ink. And yet ifc is rare* to\nfind an ink that fulfills all the conditions re-\nquired of it. This is explainable upon the ground\nthat ink recipes are not constructed according\nto any chemical formula, but that we are com-\npelled to rely upon empirical experiments and\nmake use of the results gathered by practical\nexperience. A good black ink must flow easily\nfrom the pen, and must yield either immediately\nor in a short time a deep black writing. It\nmust not corrode metallic pens nor destroy the\npaper. Further than this, a good ink should\ncontain no considerable sediment when kept\nin airtight bottles. In ordinary ink bottles a\nsediment will always form, and the more it is\nexposed to the atmosphere the faster it will\nform. An ink that is to be used for important\ndocuments must not be washed out with water\nor absolute alcohol so as to be permanently il-\nlegible.\nInk may consist of either a clear solution of\nany dyestuff or, as in the case of common black\nink, a finely divided, insoluble precipitate sus-\npended in water. The chief materials used for\nmaking this ink are gallnuts, green vitriol, and\ngum, which are employed in the moat varied\nproportions. The gallnuts are crushed to a\ncoarse powder and boiled in water, oi, better,\ndigested for several hours at a temperature\nnear the boiling point, and the gum and green\nvitriol added to the filtered decoction in solu-\ntion.\nThe so-called alizarine inks flow easily from\nthe pen, but they mostly suffer from the fact\nthat the writing appears at first only of a faint\ngreenish, bluish, or reddish color, although it\ngets darker afterward.\nThe most permanent writing is done with\nIndia ink, because the black coloring matter of\nthis ink consists of finely divided carbon,\nwhich is unaffected by chemical reagents. Its\nhigh price seldom premits of its use.\nFor ordinary use only such ink is recom-\nmended as consists either of pure galls and iron,\nor of some mixture in which these are the chief\ningredients.\nThe inks for other purposes, as printing inks,\nare fully treated, and all are arranged alpha-\nbetically.\nTo Age or Develop the Color of Ink.— It has\nbeen the custom to keep ink for two or three\nmonths to develop its color; but it is ted\nthat this may be accomplished in a few hours\nby forcing fine streams of air through it. This\nis done by having a coil of perforated pipe in\nthe bottom of a tank containing the ink., and\nforcing the air through it by a pump, blower,\nor otherwise.\nAniline Inks.— Alcoholic Solutions.— 1. Gene-\nral formula.— Dissolve 15 parts of aniline color\nin 150 parts of strong alcohol in a vessel of glass\nor enameled iron for three hours, thei Id\n1,000 parts distilled water; heat gently foi\nhours, in fact, till the color of the alcohol has\nquite disappeared; then add a solution consist-\ning of 60 parts of powdered gum arabic in 250\nparts of water.\n2. Special Formula for Violet.— Digest y z oz.\naniline violet in 1 oz. alcohol in a suitable ves-\nsel as above for three hours; then add 1 qt. of\ndistilled water and heat gently till odor of\nspirit is dissipated. Then add 2 drm. gum arabic\ndissolved in pt. water and allow the w\nsettle. This will bear dilution, if desired, with\nan additional quantity of distilled water.\n3. Special Formula for Blue.— Dissolve 15 gr.\naniline blue in 1 oz. alcohol, and add 6 oz. in\ndistilled water. Boil in proper vessel as above,\nuntil odor of alcohol has disappeared.\nadd 3 drm. powdered gum arabic dissolved in 4\noz distilled water. Finally filter. You will\nperceive that there is some considerable differ-\nence in the above special formula, but there\ncan be no harm in making it too strong, as H\nno difficult matter to dilute with distilled water\nto taste.\n4. Aqueous Solutions.— Magenta.— 1 oz. to tae\ngallon of boiling distilled water.\n5. Violet.— 1 oz. to 1 gal. of boiling disuiiled\n6. Bhie 1 oz. to 10 pt. of boiling distilled\nwater. ,_,\n7. Green.— 1 oz. to 5 pt. of boiling distilled\nwater. The addition of a small quantity of\nvinegar will considerably improve the color of\nblue aniline fluid. These aqueous solutions\nare very enduring, though not exactly per-\nmanent, as they give way to long continued\nexposure to sunlight. They are very limpid,\ndry quickly and never clog. They should or\ncourse be filtered.\nAutographic Ink\n1. White soap..... lOOparts.\nWhite wax. lOOparts.\nMutton suet 30parts.\nShellac 50 parts.\nMastic 50 parts.\nLampblack 30 or 35 parts.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0284.jp2"},"281":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n369\nInks.\n2. Use a saturated solution of alum, with col-\noring 1 matter in it, as indigo.\nBlack Inks.—1. Aniline Black Ink.— Concen-\ntrated solution of borax, 1 part; shellac, 4 parts;\nboil; add aniline black.— English Mechwnc.\n2. Arnold s Writing Fluid.— This writing- fluid\nis a mixture of sulphate of indigo and ordinary\nink. It flows freely from the pen and at last\nbecomes very black.\n3. Asiatic Black Ink.— Logwood shavings and\npowdered galls, of each 2 lb.; green vitriol, lib.;\ngum, 3^ lb.; pomegranate bark, 34 lb.: water, 1\ngal.; infuse 14 days with frequent agitation or\nboil.\n4. Brand s Aleppo gallnuts (pulverized), 10\nparts; water, 125 parts; crystallized sulphate of\niron, 5 parts; gum arabic, 634 parts.\n5. (Eisner) galls (powdered), 42 oz.; gum Sene-\ngal (powdered), 15 oz.; distilled or rainwater,\n18 qt.; sulphate of iron (free from copper), 18\noz.; liquor of ammonia, 3 drm.; spirit of wine,\n24 oz.; mix these ingredients in an open vessel,\nstirring frequently until the ink attains the de-\nsired blackness. This formula is said to give a\ndeep black neutral ink that does not corrode\nsteel pens.\n6. Geisoler s.— Powder coarsely 2 lb. gallnuts,\n13^ lb. iron sulphate, 7 oz. gum arabic. Add\n2 qt. vinegar, 3y 2 gal. water. Stir the mixture\nfrequently. Let it stand from eight to ten\ndays, theii pour off the ink.\n7. Jahn s.— Bablah, 75 parts; ground logwood,\n123^ paris; water, 750 parts. Boil down to half\nits volume. Strain through linen, add 634 parts\nsugar, 634 parts gun arabic; sulphate of iron\n(finely pulverized), 18% parts. To prevent\nmoulding add a small quantity of a solution of\n.chloride of mercury.\n8. Peltz in Pharm. Zeitschr. f. Russl., recom-\nmends the following for making a good ink\nParts.\nExtract of logwood 100\nLime water 800\nCarbolic acid 3\nCommon hydrochloric acid 25\nDistilled water 600\nGum arabic 30\nBichromate of potassium 3\nDistilled water enough to make 1,800\nDissolve the extract in the lime water, in a por-\ncelain or well enameled iron vessel, over a\nsteam bath, with frequent stirring. Add the\ncarbolic acid and hydrochloric acids, which\nchange the solution from a red to a brownish\nyellow color. After half an hour s heating\nover the steam bath set the mixture aside until\ncold, then strain or filter. Now add the bichro-\nmate of potassium and the gum, each separately\ndissolved in a considerable.quantity of distilled\nwater, and finally add enough water to make\n1,800 parts. This ink is a fine red color, which\nquickly turns black. It does not corrode steel\npens, and, if it dries, needs only the addition of\nwater.\n9. Shellac, 4 oz.; borax, 2 oz.; water, lqt.; boil\ntil] dissolved, and add 2 oz. gum arabic dissolved\nin a little hot water; boil and add enough of a\nwell triturated mixture of equal parts of indigo\nand lampblack to produce the proper color;\nafter standing several hours draw off and\nbottle.\n10. An exceedingly fine ink is said to be pro-\nduced by the following recipe 11 parts galls,\n2 parts green vitriol, |th part indigo solution\nand 33 parts of water. Here the relatively larger\nquantity makes the gum unnecessary, while\nthe indigo solution makes the brilliant black\nseem still deeper. Writing executed with this\nink may, it is true, be removed by means of\ndilute acids, but it may be rendered visible\nagain by chemical means.\n11. Bruised Aleppo nutgalls, 2 lb.; water, 1\ngal.; boil in a copper vessel for an hour, adding\nwater to make up for that lost by evaporation;\nstrain and again boil the galls with a gallon of\nWater and strain; mix the liquors and add im-\nmediately 10 oz. of copperas in coarse powder\nand 8 oz. of gum arabic; agitate until solution\nof these latter is effected, add a few drops of a\nsolution of potassium permanganate, strain\nthrough a piece of hair cloth, and at per-\nmitting it to settle bottle. The addition of a.\nlittle extract of logwood will render the ink\nblacker when first written with. Half an oz.\nof sugar to the gal. will render it a good copy-\ning ink.\n12. The Industrie Blatter recommends the fol-\nlowing formula as furnishing a good and cheap\nwriting ink: French extract of Campeachy\nwood, 100 parts lime water, 800 parts; phenol\n(carbolic acid), 3 parts; hydrochloric acid, 25\nparts; gum arabic, 30 parts; red chromate of\npotash, 3 parts. The extract is first dissolved\nin the lime water on a steam bath with frequent\nstirring or shaking, after which the carbolic\nand hydrochloric acids are added, and change\nthe red color to a brownish yellow. It is then\nheated half an hour on steam bath and set aside\nto cool. It is next filtered, and the gum and\nbichromate dissolved in water, are added.\nEnough water is then added to make up the\nsolution to 1,800 parts This ink is a fine red\nwhen used, but soon gets black.\n13. Black, for Shading Pens. The following\nrecipe is for a glossy black ink for patent shad-\ning pens\nPowdered nutgalls 18 parts.\nIron sulphate 8 parts.\nGum arabic f parts.\nPure water 145 parts.\nThe galls are first boiled in 130 parts water, the-\niron sulphate and gum arabic dissolved in 15\nparts water, and this solution then slowly\nadded to the former.\nWith Logwood.— 14. A decoction of logwood\nis first made by boiling 10 lb. logwood in\nenough water to produce 80 lb. of the decoc-\ntion. To 1,0l0 parts of this logwood extract\nwhen cold, is added 1 part of yellow (neutral)\nchromate of potash (K 2 Cr0 4 stirring rapidly.\nIt is ready for use at once, -without any addi-\ntion; but it possesses the great fault of soon\nbecoming thick. This may be corrected by\nadding corrosive sublimate or any other anti-\nseptic. 15. Boil 10 oz. logwood in 20 oz. water;\nthen boil again in 20 oz. more water and mix\nthe two decoctions add 2 oz. chrome alum, and\nboil again for one-quarter hour and 1 oz. gum\narabic. The product is 25 oz. deep black ink.\n16. Two lb. bruised galls, digested in 2 qt. alco-\nhol at a temperature of 104° to 140° F. (40° to 60°\nC.) when about half the alcohol has evapor-\nated, add 3 qt. water; stir well and strain\nthrough a linen cloth. To clarify the solution\nadd 8 oz. glycerine, 8 oz. gum arabic and 1 lb.\nsulphate of iron dissolved in water. Stir thor-\noughly from time to time for a few days, allow\nto settle and put up in well stoppered bottles\nfor preservation. The addition of too much\nsulphate of iron is to be avoided, as causing the\nink soon to turn yellow. Ink thus prepared is\nsaid to resist the action of light and air for at\nleast 12 months without suffering any change of\ncolor. 17. Digest in an open vessel 42 oz.\ncoarsely powdered galls, 15 oz. gum Senegal, 18\noz. sulphate of iron, 3 drm. aqua ammonias, 24\noz. alcohol and 18 qt. distilled or rain water.\nContinue the digestion till the fluid has assumed\na deep black color. 18. To good gall ink add a\nstrong solution of fine Prussian blue in dis-\ntilled water; the ink writes greenish blue, but\nafterward turns black it is said that it cannot\nbe erased either by acids or alkalies without the\ndestruction of the paper.\n19. Twenty parts by weight extract of logwood\nare dissolved in 200 parts water and the solution\nis clarified by subsidence and decantation. A\nyellowish brown liquid is thus obtained. In\nanother vessel, 10 parts ammonia alum are dis-\nsolved in 20 parts boiling water the two solu-\ntions are mixed, there being also added i part\nsulphuric acid and finally 1J^ part sulphate of","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0285.jp2"},"282":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n270\nInks.\ncopper. The ink should be exposed to the air\nfor a few days to give it a good color, after\nwhich it should be stored in well corked bottles.\n20. Thirty parts extract of logwood are dis-\nsolved in 250 parts of water; 8 parts crystallized\ncarbonate of soda and 30 parts glycerine (sp. gr.\n1*25) are added lastly, 1 part neutral chromate\nof potash and 8 parts gum arabic, reduced to a\npowder and dissolved in water. This ink does\nnot attack pens, does not turn mouldy and is\nvery black.\n21. Joseph Ellis, of Brighton, stated to the\nSociety of Arts that, by making a solution of\nshellac with borax in water and pure lamp-\nblack, an ink is producible which is indestruct-\nible by time or by chemical agents, and which,\non drying will present a polished surface, as\nwith the ink found on the Egyptian papyri. He\nmade such an ink, and proved, if not its identity\nwith that of ancient Egypt, yet the correctness\nof the formula.\n22. (Karmarsch.)-Pulverized gallnuts, 9 parts;\n3J^j parts gum arabic; sulphate of iron, 3%\nparts; 75 parts water.\n23. (Lewis.)-Two oz. pulverized iron sulphate,\n2oz. pulverized logwood, 7 oz. pulverized gall-\nnuts, 2 oz. gum arabic, 2 qt. white wine or\nacetic acid.\n24. Prerogative Court.— Galls, 1 lb.; gum\narabic, 6 oz.; alum, 2 oz.; green vitriol, 7 oz.;\nkino, 3 oz.; logwood raspings, 4 oz.; soft water,\n1 gal.; macerate. Said to write well on parch-\nment.\n25. (Reid.) Pulverized gallnuts, 2 lb.; sul-\nphate of iron, lb.; water, 6 qt.\n26. (Ribaucourt.) Galls, lib.; logwood, y 2 lb.;\ngum, 6 oz.; sulphate of iron, Yq lb.; sulphate of\ncopper, 2 oz.; sugar, 2 oz.; water, 12 lb. (or 5\nqt.). This has the disadvantage of corroding\nthe steel pens and the penknives with which it\ncomes in contact.\n27. Black Ruling Ink.— Add fresh gall to good\nblack ink. Do not cork, as it prevents it from\nturning black.\n28. Runge s Black Writing Fluid.— Digest 34\nlb. logwood in fine chips for twelve hours in 3\npt. boiling water, then simmer down gently to\n1 qt., carefully avoiding dust, grease and smoke.\nWhen cold decant the decoction and dissolve in\nit by agitation 20 grn. yellow chromate of pot-\nash; it will then be fit for use.\n29. (Van Moos.)- Gallnuts, coarsely powdered,\n75 parts: sulphate of iron, 42J/£ parts; over this\npour 2,000 parts cold water. Digest from\ntwenty-four to forty-eight hours. Strain\nthrough a cloth and add twenty-four parts\ngum arabic.\n30. Rich Blue Black.— Take enough elder-\nberries to make a quantity of the liquid, bruise\nand put them in an earthen jar for three days,\nwhen they are to be crushed and the juice to be\nfiltered. To every 25 pt. of the filtered liquid\n1 oz. of sulphate of iron and 1 oz. of crude\npyroligneous acid is added. This ink will have\na violet color when used, but turns to a blue\nblack on drying.\nBlue Inks.—l. Three parts Prussian blue, 1\npart oxalic acid and 30 parts of water. When\ndissolved add 1 part of gum arabic.\n2. Beautiful Blue Writing Fluid.— Dissolve\nbasic or soluble Prussian blue in pure water.\nThis is the most permanent and beautiful ink\nknown.\n3. Chinese Blue Ink.— Two oz. Chinese blue, 1\nqt. boiling water, 1 oz. oxalic acid; dissolve the\nblue in the water and add the acid; it is ready\nfor use at once.\n4. One and one-eighth oz. of the so-called\nbleu soluble Parisienne (soluble Paris blue,\nalso called cornflower blue) is dissolved in\nalcohol.\n5. Blue Writing Fluid (Mohr).— Pure Prus-\nsian blue, 9 parts; oxalic acid, 1}4 part. Tri-\nturate to a smooth paste with a little water.\nDilute with sufficient soft water to make it\nfluid.\n6. Blue Ruling Ink.— Good vitriol, 6 oz.; in-\ndigo, V/%, oz.; pulverize the indigo and add to\nthe vitriol. Expose to the air for six days, or\nuntil dissolved. Fill the pots with chalk, add\ngill fresh gall, boiling it before use.\n7. Blue, for Ruling.— Take 4 oz. of vitriol,\nbest quality, to 1 oz. of indigo; pulverize the\nindigo very fine; put the indigo on the vitriol;\nlet them stand exposed to the air for six days,\nor until dissolved; then fill the pot with chalk,\nadd a gill of fresh gall, boiling it before use.\n8. Stephen s Blue Black Writing Fluid.— Pure\nPrussian blue, 6 parts; oxalic acid, 1 part. Trit-\nurate with a little water to a perfectly smooth\npaste, then dilute the mass with a proper\nquantity of soft water.\nBookbinders Ink. A very good red ink may\nbe made in the following manner Infuse }4 lb.\nof Brazil wood raspings in vinegar for two or\nthree days. Boil the infusion gently for an\nhour -and filter it while hot. Put it again over\nthe fire and dissolve in it, first, J^ oz. of gum\narabic and afteward of alum and white sugar,\neach J^ oz. A little alum will improve the\ncolor. The blue is a solution of indigo or Prus-\nsian blue.\nBranding Ink.—l. Triturate together 1 part\nof pine soot and 2 parts of Prussian blue with a\nlittle glycerine; then add 3 parts of gum arabic\nand sufficient glycerine to form a suitable\npaste.\n2. The following is recommended as a water-\nproof branding ink\nShellac 2 oz.\nBorax 2 oz.\nWater 25 oz.\nGum arabic 2 oz.\nLampblack q.s.\nBoil the borax and shellac in water till they\nare dissolved and withdraw from the fire.\nWhen the solution has become cold, complete\n25 oz. with water and add lampblack enough to\nbring the preparation to a suitable consistency.\nWhen it is to be used with a stencil it must be\nmade thicker than when it is applied with a\nbrush.\n3. The above gives a black ink; for red ink\nsubstitute Venetian red for lampblack.\n4. For blue, ultramarine.\n5. And for green, a mixture of ultramarine\nand chrome yellow.\nRed Branding Ink.— The following recipe is\nfrom the Druggists Circular\nCochineal, pulverized fine 2 oz.\nCream of tartar 2 oz.\nMix, and add—\nBoiling water 8 oz.\nLet stand for a quarter of an hour, then neu-\ntralize by adding—\nCarbonate of potash 1 oz.\nAfter the neutralization add\nAlum (powdered) 1 oz.\nGum arabic (powdered) 1 oz.\nStarch 2 oz.\nMix.\nBrown Ink.—l. By adding to the violet ink\nfinely powdered bichromate of potash, in the\nproportion of from 15 to 30 grn. to 1 oz.,\nvarious shades of brown and snuff color are\nobtained.\n2. A strong decoction of catechu; the shade\nmay be varied by the cautious addition of a\nlittle weak solution of bichromate of potash.\n3. A strong decoction of logwood, with a very\nlittle bichromate of potash.\nBurnishing Ink.—l. Four oz. shellac, 1 oz. bor-\nax, sufficient water. Boil to tue consistence of\nsirup, and add a few drops of strong ammonia\nwater. A small amount of soap is sometimes\nalso introduced. Add a sufficient quantity of\nthis to the ink to obtain the desired result.\nInstead of the above, soap is often used alone,\nor with a trace of glycerine, ammonia or gum\narabic","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0286.jp2"},"283":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n271\nInks.\n2. Receipts for burnishing ink for heel and\nsole edge polishing.\na. Extract of logwood 1 to 2 oz.\nTincture of iron 1 to 2 oz.\nSweet oil 1 to 2 drm.\nDiluted alcohol 1 pt.\nb, Extract of logwood 4 oz.\nBichromate of potassium 12 grn.\nFerrocyanide of potassium 12 grn.\nRain water 1 gal.\nThe ink in either case is applied with a brush\nand immediately burnished with a hot iron.\nCanceling Ink for Post Offices, etc. A fine\ngrade of printing ink is ordinarily employed.\nA good ink may be made as follows Balsam of\ncopaiba, pure, 9 oz.; lampblack, 3oz.; indigo,\n5 drm.; Prussian blue, 5 drm.; Indian red, oz.;\ndried yellow soap, 3 oz.; grind to a uniform\nsmoothness.\nCarbon Ink. Genuine India ink rubbed\ndown with good black ink until it will flow\neasily from a pen. This ink resists chlorine\nand oxalic acid.\nCopying Ink. 1. The quality required of a\ncopying ink is that it shall afford one or more\ncopies of the written matter by applying dry\nor damped paper to its surface, and subjecting\nit to more or less pressure. The best kinds of\ncopying ink are usually prepared by adding a\nlittle alum to an extract of logwood of 10° B.,\nT075 sp. gr., or to a decoction of the same,\nand then, to improve its copying power, some\nsugar and glycerine or table salt is added.\nSuch inks have a violet tint, are purple when\nfirst written, and gradually darken on the\npaper. The copies taken from them are at first\nvery pale, and only slowly darken. The chief\nrecipes for copying inks are the following\n2. Mix about 3 pt. jet black writing ink and\nI pt. glycerine. This, if used on glazed paper,\n.vill not dry for hours, and will yield one or\nwo fair, neat, dry copies, by simple pressure\nof the hand in any good letter copy book. The\nwriting should not be excessively fine, nor the\nstrokes uneven or heavy. To prevent setting\noff, the leaves after copying should be removed\nby blotting paper. The copies and the origin-\nals are neater than when water is used.\n3. A good copying ink may be made from\ncommon violet writing ink by the addition of\n6 parts glycerine to 8 parts of the ink. Using\nonly 5 parts of glj cerine to 8 pai ts of the ink,\nthe ink will copy well fifteen minutes after it\nhas been used. With fine white copying paper,\nit will copy well without the use of a press.\n4. Half pound extract of logwood, 2 oz, alum,\n4 dr. blue vitriol (sulphate of copper), 4 dr.\ngreen vitriol, sulphate of iron, 1 oz. sugar; boil\nthese ingredients with 4 parts water, filter the\ndecoction through flannel; add a solution of 4\ndr. neutral chromate of potash in 4 oz. water,\nand a solution of 2 oz. chemic blue in 2 oz,\nglycerine. The chemic blue is the solution of\nindigo in sulphuric acid, or sulphindigotic acid.\n5. A black copying ink which flows easily\nfrom the pen, and will give very sharp copies\nwithout the aid of a press, can be prepared\nthus: 1 oz. coarsely broken extract of logwood\nand 2 dr. crystallized carbonate of soda are\nplaced in a porcelain capsule with 8 oz. distilled\nwater, and heated until the solution is of a\ndeep red color, and all the extract is dissolved.\nThe capsule is then taken from the fire. Stir\nwell into the mixture 1 oz. glycerine, sp. gr.\n1*35, 15 gr. neutral chromate of potash, dis-\nsolved in a little water, and 2 dr. finely pul-\nverized gum arabic, which may be previously\ndissolved in a little hot water so as to produce\na mucilaginous solution. The ink is now com-\nplete and ready for use.\n6. Bruised Aleppo nutgalls, 2 lb.; water, 1\ngal.; boil in a copper vessel for an hour, adding\nwater to make up for that lost by evaporation;\nstrain and again boil the galls with 1 gal. water\nand strain; mix the liquors and add immedi-\nately 10 oz. copperas in coarse powder and 8 oz.\ngum arabic; agitate until solution of these\nlatter is effected, add a few drops of solution\nof potassium permanganate, strain through a\npiece of hair cloth and after permitting to\nsettle, bottle. The addition of a little extract\nof logwood will render the ink blacker when\nfirst written with. Half an ounce of sugar to\nthe gallon will render it a good copying ink.\n7. Professor Gin tl proposes the following: A\nconcentrated solution of logwood is treated,\nfirst, with 1% of alum, and then with the same\nproportion of lime water until a permanent\nprecipitate is formed. A tew drops of a weak\nsolution of chloride of calcium are added, un-\ntil a bluish black color is obtained; then hydro-\nchloric acid is added drop by drop until the\nliquid turns red. A little gum and about 1%\nglycerine are then added, and the ink is ready\nfor use,\n8. Red Copying Ink.— Dissolve 50 parts extract\nof logwood in a mortar in 750 parts distilled\nwater without the aid of heat; add 2 parts\nchromate of potassium and set aside. After\ntwenty-four hours add a solution of 3 parts\noxalic acid, 20 parts oxalate of ammonium, and\n40 parts sulphate of aluminum in 200 parts dis-\ntilled water, and again set aside for twenty-\nfour hours. Now raise it once to boiling in a\nbright copper kettle, add 50 parts vinegar, and\nafter cooling fill into bottles and cork. After\na fortnight decant. This ink is red in thin\nlayers, writes red, gives excellent copies in\nbrownish color, and turns blackish brown upon\nthe paper.\n9. Parisian Copying Ink.— Best kinds of copy-\ning inks are, as is well known, prepared by\nadding a percentage of alum, sugar, and glycer-\nine, or salt, to the extract of logwood. Such\ninks have a violet tint, and gradually become\nblacker on paper. The copy is, however, very\npale at first, and is often indistinct. Th3 Par-\nisian copying ink is distinguished from the\ncommon kinds by its appearance more or less\nyellow in a liquid state, and by producing a\ndistinct bluish black on paper. It has the ad-\nditional advantage of preserving its fluidity,\nwhile the common kinds soon thicken. Pro-\nfessor Gintl recommends the following method\nof preparing an ink which has all the advan-\ntages of the Parisian: A strong solution of\nlogwood extract is treated with 1% of alum, and\nthen with as much lime water, so that a perma-\nnent precipitate is formed. Some drops of\nweak chloride of lime are then added, so that a\nperceptible bluish black color is attained, and\nhydrochloric acid is added by drops till a red\nsolution is obtained. A little gum is then added,\nwith 0*5^ of glycerine.— English Mechanic.\n10. Violet Copying Ink.— For blue violet,\ndissolve in 300 parts boiling water methyl violet\n5B, Hofmann violet 3B, or gentiana violet B.\nFor reddish violet, dissolve in a similar quantity\nof water methyl violet BR. A small quantity\nof sugar added to these inks improves their\ncopying qualities. If the writing, when dry,\nretains a bronzy appearance, more water must\nbe added.\nInks which Yield Copies without a Press.— 1.\nBlack\nNigrosine C. P. fine 10 oz.\nGlucose A V/%, oz.\nHot water 1% pt.\nGlycei-ine 1*4 oz.\nDissolve the nigrosine by trituration in the\nhot water, then add the other ingredients and\nstrain through a piece of silk. If too thick\nwhen cold, dilute to the proper consistence\nwith water.\n2. Blue:\nCotton blue (aniline) C. B 6 oz.\nGlucose A 1 oz.\nGlycerine Y± oz.\nHot water. 2 pt.\nProceed as directed for black ink (above). In\npreparing these inks it is essential that the\nwater should be kept quite hot while the ope-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0287.jp2"},"284":{"fulltext":"Inks.\nration of trituration is performed. The tritu-\nration should be continued until all of the dye\nhas been taken up by the water. The straining-\nmust be performed hot, otherwise the filtering-\ncloths quickly become clogged. In purchasing\nnigrosine and aniline blue, obtain if possible\nthe purest quality. Cheap grades of these dyes\nare almost invariably heavily adulterated with\ndextrine.\n3. Dissolve an aniline color in water, and add\na little glycerine. It is well to dissolve the\ncolor in alcohol first. About 10$ glycerine\nshould be sufficient.\n4. Mix white sugar with the ink; V drm.\nsugar to 1 oz. ink. Use this with an ordinary\npen, and place over the writing a moistened\nsheet of unsized paper. Lay both leaves be-\ntween two layers of carpet; put the whole under\na piece of board large enough to cover. Then\nstand on the board for a few seconds. An ex-\ncellent impression will be found on the copying-\npaper.\nParts.\n5. Extract of logwood 200\nSulphate of iron 8\nChromate of potash 2\nIndigo carmine 16\nGum arabic 2\nGlycerine 20\nSalicylic acid 03\nVinegar 100\nDistilled water 900\nDissolve the extract of logwood completely\nin a portion of the ,7ater by heating at a tem-\nperature of about 200° F. Then add the rest of\nthe water and the vinegar, in which the other\ningredients have been mixed in the order given\nabove and dissolved. Mix thoroughly, and set\naside for a few days to settle. Another formula,\nwhich provifies an ink of a different color, but\nequally satisfactory, is as follows\nParts.\n6. Water 1,000\nExtract of logwood 200\nIndigo carmine 20\nAlum 25\nSulphate of iron 4\nSulphate of copper 3\nGlucose 16\nGum arabic 2\nChromate of potash 2\nSalicylic acid 0*3\n7. Writing, too old to copy by moisture only,\nor from thin writing ink, may be copied as\nfollows In y 2 pt. water dissolve about a table-\nspoonful white sugar, and to the solution add a\nsufficient quantity of the ferrocyanide of po-\ntassium to distinctly color it, also about y gill\npure muriatic acid (free from iron). Moisten\nwhite tissue paper with this, partially dry it\nwith a blotter, place the writing to be copied\nin contact with it, and keep under pressure for\nabout five minutes. With most inks this recipe\nwill give very good results.\nChrome Ink.— Extract of logwood, oz.; gum,\nM oz.; water, 1 pt. Dissolve also in 12 oz. water,\n34 oz. yellow chromate of potash (or J^ oz. bi-\nchromate and bicarbonate of potash), and mix\nthe two solutions. The ink is ready for im-\nmediate use.\nBrier for Inks used on Bookbinders Cases.\nBeeswax, 2 oz.; gum arabic (dissolved in acetic\nacid q. s. to make a thin mucilage), J^ oz.;\nbrown japan, )4 oz. Mix with 2 lb. good cut\nink.\nDiamond Ink. Diamond ink is made by mix-\ning with hydrofluoric acid enough barium sul-\nphate to give it consistency, so that it will not\nspread, and show well on the glass. Ammonium\nfluoride may also be added. After the writing-\nhas stood some time it is washed or dusted off,\nand the etching appears. See Etching.\nDrawing Ink— I. A very black and indelible\ndrawing ink may be made by dissolving shellac\nin a hot water solution of borax, and rubbing\nup in this solution a fine quality of India ink.\n272 Inks.\nAfter using, dip the drawing pen in alcohol\nand wipe dry. to keep it clean and bright.\n2. The addition of 1 part of carbolic acid to 80-\nparts of the fluid India ink, while it does not im-\npair its fluidity, causes it to dry rapidly even in\nheavy lines, so that they can be varnished over.\nThe proper amount of carbolic acid to be added\nin any case may be ascertained by adding drop\nby drop the ordinary apothecary s solution of\nit in alcohol until varnishing does not affect\nthe definition of a test line by causing it to\nrun. The addition of too much carbolic acid\nis indicated by the transparancy of the line\nand the inability to draw fine lines, a condition\neasily remedied by the addition of more of the\nfluid ink.\nSee also India Inks below. For a manufac-\ntured ink Higgins waterproof is highly recom-\nmended.\nEnameled Cards, Ink for.— An ink that may\nbe applied to enameled calling or playing cards\nthat will show perfectly plain, and that will\nnot destroy the gloss, is printer s ink diluted\nwith oil of lavender.\nIndorsing Inks.— Dissolve 1 part of aniline\nblue, violet or magenta, according to the color\nrequired, in a mixture of 30 parts of alcohol\nand 30 parts of glycerine.\nInk Eraser.— 1. Mix equal parts of oxalic and\ntartaric acids in powder. When to be used, dis-\nsolve a little in water. It is poisonous.\n2. Oxalic acid mixed with citric acid may be\nused.\n3. Equal parts of cream of tartar and citric\nacid in solution with water.\n4. A more powerful one, a saturated solution\nof oxalic acid in water. The red inks are made\nof various bases for the color, as Brazil wood,\ncochineal, and aniline red. The aniline red\nmay be removed by alcohol acidulated with\nnitric acid. No receipt for the other reds.\n5. Cold aqueous or acetic acid solution of\ncalcium hypochlorite, bleaching powder or\neau de JaveUe.\n6. Immerse blotting paper or any similar ma-\nterial in a hot concentrated solution of citric\nacid, roll it into a pencil, and coat the larger\nportion of it with paper or lacquer. Moisten\nthe eraser with water, and rub over the ink to\nbe removed. Drop upon the ink spot a drop of\nwater containing chloride of lime. The ink\nimmediately disappears.\n7. Chloride of lime, pound, is added to\n2 parts water. Allow this to stand for 24\nhours, then strain and add 1 drm. acetic acid to\nevery ounce of the chloride of lime used. Ap-\nply this liquid to the blot without rubbing.\nWhen the ink has disappeared absorb the fluid\nwith blotting paper.\nEngraving Inks.— Under the term engraving-\ninks will be included all inks employed for en-\ngravers, whether on stone, wood, or metal.\n1. Black.— Coal tar, 100 parts; lampblack, 36\nparts; Prussian blue, 10 parts; glycerine, 10\nparts. This ink may be used for lithography,\nchromo lithography, autography, etc. 2. To\nthe varnish obtained by boiling linseed oil, as\nfor printing- ink, is added as much best calcined\nParis black as can be ground up with it. This\nis a litho printing ink. For copper plate print-\ning, the Paris black is replaced by lampblack.\n3. Eight oz. mastic in tears, 12 oz. shellac, 1 oz.\nVenice turpentine; melt together; add 1 lb.\nwax, 6 oz. tallow; when they are dissolved, add\n6 oz. hard tallow soap shavings, and mix; then\nadd 4 oz. lampblack. Mix all well together, let\ncool slightly, pour into moulds, and cut into\ncakes of convenient size. This ink is suited for\nwriting- on stones. 4. To render 3 liquid, for\nwriting and drawing on transfer paper, it is\nwarmed in a pot, and then rubbed down with\nsoft water (rain or distilled water). The pen\nshould be dipped into oil and wiped before\nuse. 6. Pure white wax, 4 parts (best quality);\nwhite tallow, 2 parts; gum lac, 2 parts; lamp-\nblack made from burnt rags, 1 part; oil copal\nvarnish, 1 part. Melt the wax over a slow","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0288.jp2"},"285":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n273\nInks.\nfire, then add gum lac crushed small, then mix\nin the soap in shavings, then the oil varnish\nfor cakes. When wanted, thin Avith water\nfrom the cake, and for crayons cut from the\npaint, which must be brittle if it is good.\nColored.— Colored inks are made by adding\nto the varnish already described certain pig-\nments, of which the principal are as follows:\n1. Blue.— Two oz. celestial blue, 3 oz. marine\nblue.\n2. Brown.— Two oz. burnt umber, 1 oz. rose\npink.\n3. Green. Two oz. mineral green, 3oz. chrome\ngreen.\n4. Lilac— One oz. Prussian blue, 2 oz. Chinese\nred.\n5. Orange.— Two oz. orange red, 1 oz. flake\nwhite, ground up with Canada balsam, and\nomitting the linseed oil varnish.\n6. Pink.— Two oz. mineral pink, 1 oz. satin\nwhite.\n7. Red. Five oz. mineral orange red, 2 oz.\nChinese red.\nExchequer Ink.— Bruised galls, 20 lb.; gum, 5\nlb.; green iron sulphate, 4 lb.; soft water, 22}^\ngal. Macerate for three weeks, stirring fre-\nquently. This ink is very enduring.\nFireproof Paper and Ink for Documents.—\nFireproof paper maybe made, according to the\nPharmaceutische Zeitung, from a pulp consist-\ning of 1 part vegetable fiber, 2 parts asbestos,\npart borax, part of alum. The ink is made\nfrom 85 parts graphite, 0 8 part copal var-\nnish, 7 5 parts copperas, 30 parts tincture of\nnutgalls, and a sufficient quantity of indigo\ncarmine.\nFrost Proof Ink.— Aniline black, 1 drm. rub\nwith a mixture of concentrated hydrochloric\nacid, 1 drm; pure alcohol, 10 oz. The deep blue\nsolution obtained is diluted with a hot solution\nof concentrated glycerine, V/% drm., in 4 oz. of\nwater. This ink does not injure steel pens, is\nunaffected by concentrated mineral acids or\nstrong alkalies, and will not freeze at a tem-\nperature of 22° or 24° below zero.\nGluten Ink.— Dissolve wheat gluten, free from\nstarch, in weak acetic acid, of the strength of\ncommon vinegar; mix 10 grn. lampblack and\n2 grn. indigo, with 4 oz. of the solution, and a\ndrop or two of the oil of cloves.\nGlass, Inks for Writing on.— 1. A solution of\nhydrofluoric acid applied to glass previously\ncoated with wax, and the matter scratched\nthrough with a style.\n2. Three parts barium sulphate, 1 part am-\nmonium fluoride, and sufficient sulphuric acid\nto decompose the ammonium fluoride and make\nthe mixture of a semi-fluid consistence. It\nshould be prepared in a leaden dish and kept in\na gutta percha or leaden bottle.\nGreen Inks.— Green Black Ink.— 1. Take 15\nparts bruised gallnuts and 200 parts of water,\nboil for about an hour, strain, and then add to\nthe liquor 5 parts sulphate of iron, 4 parts fine\niron shavings and a solution of y» pint of\npowered indigo in 3 parts of sulphuric acid.\nThis ink writes green, but turns black after a\nfew days it flows very well from the pen.\n2. Calcine acetonitrate of chrome; dilute the\ngreen powder with sufficient water.\n3. Mix good clear blue and yellow inks in\nthe proportions necessary to give the desired\ntint.\n4. Sap green dissolved in very weak alum\nwater.\n5. Verdigris, 2 oz.; cream of tartar, 1 oz.;\nwater, Yz pt.; reduce one-half by boiling, and\nfilter.\n6. Rub 3} drm. Prussian blue and 3 drm. gam-\nboge, with 2 oz. mucilage, and add Y pt. water.\n7. A solution of recently precipitated hy-\ndrated oxide of chromium in liquor of am-\nmonia, dilluted with distilled water, q. s. This\nproduces a beautiful dark green liquid, per-\nfectly anti-corrosive.\n8. Dissolve 180 grains bichromate of potassa\nin 1 fl. oz. of water, add while warm Yz oz. spirit\nof wine, then decompose the mixture with con-\ncentrated sulphuric acid until it assumes a\nbrown color; evaporate this liquor until its\nquantity is reduced to one-half, dilute it with\n2 oz. distilled water; filter it, add Y oz. alcohol,\nfollowed by a few drops of strong sulphuric\nacid; it is now allowed to rest, and after a time\nassumes a beautiful green color. Add a small\nquantity of gum arabic and it is ready for use.\n9. A strong solution of binacetate of copper in\nwater, or of verdigris in vinegar; 3 (klaproth)\nverdigris, 2 oz.; cream of tartar, 1 oz.; water,\nYz pt. Boil to one-half, and filter.\n10. Two parts acetate of copper, 1 part car-\nbonate of potash and 8 parts water. Boil till\none-half is evaporated, and filter.\nGold Ink.— See also Silver Ink below.— Honey\nand gold leaf equal parts triturate until the\ngold is redueed to the finest possible state of\ndivision, agitate with 30 parts of hot water,\nand allow it to settle. Decant the water and\nrepeat the washing several times; finally dry\nthe gold and mix it with a little weak gum\nwater for use.\nLiquid Gold for Vellum.— Grind gold leaf\nwith gum water. Add a little bichloride of\nmercury, and bottle.\nHektogxaph Ink.—l. The ink is prepared by\ndissolving 1 oz. of aniline violet or blue (2 R B\nto 3 B) in 7 fl. oz. of hot water, and, on cooling,\nadding 1 oz. of wine spirit with J4 oz. of glycer-\nine, a few drops of ether, and a drop of carbo-\nlic acid. Keep the ink in a well stoppered\nbottle.\n2. Use a strong aqueous solution of nigrosine\n(aniline black) in the proportion of about 1 of\nthe coloring material to 5 or 7 of water. It\nmust be a saturated solution, rather thick.\n3. Nigrosine black 1 part.\nWater 14 parts.\nGlycerine 4 parts.\nThis will make a black ink suitable for use\nwith the hektograph. In order to make it\ncopy add more glycerine, gum arabic, or sugar.\nFor a description of the Hektograph, see\nHektograph.\nHorticultural Ink.—l. Blue vitriol, 1 oz.; sal-\nammoniac, Yi oz. (both in powder) vinegar, J4\npt.; dissolve. A little lampblack or vermilion\nmay be added. For iron, tin or steel plate.\n2. Verdigris and sal ammoniac, of each Yz oz.;\nlevigated lampblack, Yz oz.; common vinegar,\n34 pt.; mix thoroughly. Used for either zinc,\niron or steel labels.\nInk and Paper, Incombustible.— The pulp for\nthe paper is composed of vegetable fiber, 1 part\nasbestos, 2 parts borax, T V part alum, part.\nThe ink can be used in either writing or paint-\ning, and is made according to the following re-\ncipe: Graphite finely ground, 22 drm.; copal or\nother resinous gums, 12 grn.; sulphate of iron,\n2 drm.; tincture of nutgalls, 2 drm.; sulphate of\nindigo, 8 drm. These substances are thoroughly\nmixed and boiled in water. See also Fireproof\nInks above.\nIncorrodible Ink.— This name has been given\nto several preparations of a resinous character,\ncapable of resisting the action of damp and\nacids.\n1. Boiled linseed oil, ground with lampblack\nand Prussian blue, of each q. s. to impart a deep\nblack color. It may be thinned with oil of tur-\npentine.\n2. Good copal or amber varnish colored with\neither plumbago or vermilion.\n3. Trinidad asphaltum (genuine), 1 part oil of\nturpentine, 4 parts color as last.\n4. (Close.) Cobalt (in powder), 25 grn.; oil of\nlavender, 200 grn.; dissolve by a gentle heat,\nand add of lampblack, 3 grn.; indigo, 1 grn.\n(both in impalpable powder) or vermilion, q.s.\n5. (Sheldrake.) Asphaltum dissolved in amber\nvarnish and oil of turpentine, and colored with\nlampblack.\nIndeliblelnk.—l. Aniline Inks, to Render Indel-\nible.— To render aniline inks indelible on paper","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0289.jp2"},"286":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n274\nInks.\nit will be necessary to coat the reproduction\nwith some preparation. An excellent com-\npound consists of collodion dissolved to the\nconsistency used by photographers with 2% of\nstearine added.\n2. The following- ink is recommended for\nmarking; linen Triturate 1*75 drm. aniline\nblack with 240 drops strong- hydrochloric acid\nand 42 drm. strong- alcohol. The mixture is\ndiluted with a hot solution of 2*5 drm. gum\narabic in 170 drm. water. Experimentation is\nto be recommended with the various colors\nused. It is impossible to furnish any positive\niuformation on such matters without first\nengaging the services of an expert dyer to\nexperiment on the matter, liosin and salt are\nadded to soap mixtures in order to produce a\nharder compound.\n3. The Apotheker Zeitung gives the following\nformula 1 75 grm. aniline black are ground up\nwith 40 drops hydrochloric acid and 42 grm.\nalcohol, and the liquid is diluted with a hot\nsolution of 2 5 grm. gum arabic in 170 grm.\nwater. If the aniline black solution is diluted\nwith a solution of 2 5 grm. shellac in 170 grm.\nspirit instead of gum water, the result is an ink\nsuitable for writing on wood, brass or leather.\n1. Marking Ink for Linen, etc.— Dissolve shel-\nlac in a little water by boiling it with about\npart of borax, and add to this solution a suffi-\ncient quantity of nigrosine to produce the\nproper color.\n2. Indelible Ink for Marking Linen.— Add\ncaustic alkali to a saturated solution of cup-\nrous chloride until no further precipitate forms;\nallow the precipitate to settle, draw off the\nsupernatant liquid with a siphon, and dissolve\nthe hydrated copper oxide in the smallest\nquantity of ammonia. It may be mixed with\nabout of gum dextrine for use.\n3. Asphaltum, 1 part; oil of turpentine, 4\nparts; dissolve and temper with printer s ink.\nBest used with a stamp.\n4. Marking Ink.— The following recipe affords\na marking ink which is said to flow freely from\nthe pen without running or blotting, becoming\nperfectly black upon the application of mod-\nerate heat, and which does not destroy the\nquality of the finest cambric Nitrate of silver,\n1 oz.; carbonate of soda (crystallized), 1)4 oz.;\ntartaric acid, 100 grn.; strong liquor ammonia?,\n2 fl. oz.; archil, fl. oz.; white sugar, 1 oz.;\npowdered gum arabic, 1^ oz. Dissolve the\nnitrate of silver and carbonate of soda separ-\nately in distilled water; mix the solutions, col-\nlect and wash the precipitate, still moist, in a\nWedgwood mortar, and add to it the tartaric\nacid, rubbing them together until effervescence\nhas ceased; add liquor ammonias in sufficient\nquantity to dissolve the tartrate of silver; then\nmix in the archil, white sugar and gum arabic,\nand add as much distilled water, if required, as\nwill make 6 fl. oz. of the mixture.\n5. The following are highly recommended by\nDr. Reimann The linen is first moistened -with\na fluid consisting of a mixture of 2 parts car-\nbonate of soda in crystals, 2 parts gum arabic,\n8 parts of water and then dried. When quite\ndry it is rubbed with a glass cloth to render it\nas smooth as possible, so that it may be easier\nto write upon. The composition of the ink\nitself is as follows If pt. nitrate of silver, 16 pt.\ndistilled water, 2 pt. gum arabic and \\i pt. of\nsap green. The nitrate of silver is first dis-\nsolved in the distilled water, and the gum arabic\nand sap green are subsequently added. Use a\nquill pen.\n6. For very fine linen the following ink is best\nemployed 4 pt. nitrate of silver, 24 pt. distilled\nwater. To this solution liquid ammonia is\nadded until the precipitate which is first formed\nis redissolved. Then a little sap green, indigo,\netc., are ground together and dissolved in a\nsolution of 4 pt. gum arabic, and this solution\nand that of the nitrate of silver are mixed to-\ngether. The whole is then diluted until it\noccupies 32 parts. This ink is very limpid and\neasy to write with. When dry a hot iron need\nonly be passed over the surface of the linen,\nwhen the letters will at once make their ap-\npearance, their tint being a deep black. The\nink does not injuriously affect even the finest\nlinen. The discovery of an aniline black has\nled to the employment of this coloring matter\nin marking linen.\n7. The ink made with nitrate of silver can be\nremoved by washing the linen with a solution\nof hyposulphite of soda or by moistening it\nwith a solution of bichloride of copper and theu\nwashing with liquid ammonia. This is not the\ncase with the aniline ink, the color of which\ncannot be removed by any chemical agent\nwhatever. Linen, therefore, marked with this\nink can never be appropriated by other per-\nsons than the rightful owner.\n8. Such aniline ink may be prepared in the\nfollowing way 8}4 grn. of bichloride of cop-\nper are dissolved in 30 grn. of distilled water\nthen are added 10 grn. of common salt and 9V£\ngrn. of liquid ammonia. A solution of 30 grn.\nof hydrochlorate of aniline in 20 grn. of distilled\nwater is then added to 20 grn. of a solution of\ngum arabic, containing 2 pt. water, 1 pt. gum\narabic and lastly 10 grn. of glycerine. Four\nparts of the aniline solution thus prepared are\nmixed with 1 part of the copper solution. The\nliquid which results has a green appearance,\nand may be at once employed for marking\nlinen, since it invariably becomes black after a\nfew days. A steel pen may be employed as\nwell as a quill. If it is desirable not to wait so\nlong for the appearance of the black color, a\nhot iron may be passed over the writing when\nthe ink is dry, or the linen may be held over the\nflame of a spirit lamp, or over a hot plate or\nhot water, when the black tint will readily ap-\npear. It is a good plan to put the linen when\nmaiked into a tepid solution of soap, which has\nthe effect of bringing out a fine bluish tint.\nThe ink must be so limpid that it is able to per-\nmeate the tissue of the linen, so that the marks\nappear on both sides.\n9. Dissolve 25 grn. of gum copal powder in\n200 grn. of lavender oil by the aid of a gentle\nheat; then add 2^ grn. of lampblack and \\i grn.\nof powdered indigo. To be applied to paper\nwith a quill pen.\n10. Eisner prepares an ink which resists the\naction of bleaching agents, thus Take equal\nparts of copperas and vermilion, powder thor-\noughly, sift and grind the finest portions with\nlinseed oil; finally squeeze through linen. A\nthick paste is thus obtained which can be used\neither for writing or printing on calico or\nwool.— Les Mondes.\n11. Bottger prepares an ink that does not cor-\nrode steel pens by triturating 3*65 grn. of ani-\nline black with 22 grn. of alcohol and 4 drops of\nhydrochloric acid; a porcelain mortar is em-\nployed, and the paste thus produced is mixed\nwith l 82 grn. of gum arabic previously dis-\nsolved in 85 grn. of hot water. If this ink be\nadded to an alcoholic solution of shellac (21 gr.\nof lac to 85 of alcohol), a black product results,\nsuitable for coloring leather and wood.— Ding-\nZer s Polytech. Journal.\n12. If the ink is to be used for writing or\ndrawing and there is no danger of the letters,\netc., being rubbed off mechanically, printing\nink or Indian ink may be used.\n13. Printing ink sinks into woven fabrics to\na considerable depth and will last a long time.\nIt is probably one of the cheapest marking\ninks to be used with stencils.\n14. In many cases Indian ink answers as well,\nand in some cases, as for engrossing valuable\ndocuments, it is the only safe ink, since nothing\nbut the destruction of the document itself will\nbe able to obliterate it. It is made by triturat-\ning 100 grn. of best Indian ink (Chinese) with\nvery dilute hydrochloric acid(about 22 parts of\nabsolute hydrochloric acid in 1,000 parts), or","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0290.jp2"},"287":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n275\nInks.\nwith a solution of acetate of manganese in di-\nluted acetic acid.\n15. Another fine indelible ink, which resists\nall ordinary reagents, is made by means of\nvanadium. Vanadium and its salts are rather\nexpensive still, although their price has fallen\nduring the last few years to about one tenth of\nwhat it was formerly.\n16. This ink consists of lampblack and caus-\ntic soda, mixed with gelatine and caustic soda.\nIt is said to be indelible and to resemble China\nink.\n17. India ink, ground up with ordinary black\nwriting ink, forms a cheap indelible ink for\ncommon purposes. It will resist the action of\nchlorine, most acids, and even ablution with a\nbrush or sponge.\n18. Ink, Indelible.— The following recipe is\ngiven by Puscher: Dissolve 4 parts of ani-\nline black in 16 parts by weight of alcohol,\nwith 60 drops strong hydrochloric acid, and\ndilute the dark blue solution with 90 parts by\nweight of water, in which 6 parts of gum\narabic has been previously dissolved. This ink\nis said not to act upon steel pens or to suffer\nany alteration by alkalies or acids.\n19. By adding f errocyanide of potassium to\nordinary ink an indelible writing ink may be\nobtained. The removal of such an ink by acid\nwould result in the production of Prussian blue.\n—Pharmaceutische Zeitung.\n20. Gelatine, 2 grn.; bichromate of potassium,\n2 grn.; nigrosine, 10 grn.; water 2 fl. oz. Dis-\nsolve the gelatine and nigrosine in most of the\nwater and the bichromate in the remainder.\nMix the two solutions in an amber colored\nbottle.\n21. Dissolve with the assistance of heat, 20\nparts of brown shellac in a solution of 30 parts\nof borax in 300 to 400 parts of water and filter\nthe solution while hot. Then add to the filtrate\na solution of 10 parts of aniline black soluble in\nwater, T 3 ff part of tannin, part of picric acid,\n15 parts of spirit of sal ammoniac and J4 oz. of\nwater.\n22. Solution of permanganate of potass, fol-\nlowed by a solution of oxalic acid. If necessary\nrepeat. Cyanide of potassium will do it, but\nit is not easy to use, and is poison.\n23. Dissolve 34 oz. nitrate of silver in about 2\noz. of distilled water, add carbonate of soda so\nlong as a precipitate falls; wash this precipi-\ntate, and add tartaric acid till effervescence\nceases. Wash the insoluble tartrate of silver,\nand dissolve in 1 oz. of strong solution of am-\nmonia. Use this with a quill pen and hot iron\nas generally directed. Jetoline marking ink is\nalso an excellent preparation, made with ani-\nline dyes.\n24. One part of pyrogallic acid is triturated\nwith 3 parts of powdered acacia, 3 parts of van-\nadate of ammonium and a sufficient quantity\nof cold distilled water, in a porcelain capsule,\nuntil a uniform mixture is made. This forms a\nfine ink, flowing black from the pen. This may\nalso be made into a stencil ink by using less\nwater and adding a little glycerine.\n25. A composition prepared by mixing well\ntriturated carbon with an alkaline silicate\n(potash or soda), the following proportions an-\nswering well: Lampblack, 1 part; sirupy sili-\ncate solution, 12 parts ammonia liquor, 1 part\ndistilled water, 38 parts.\n26. An ink that cannot be erased, even with\nacids, is obtained by the following To good\ngall ink, add a strong solution of fine soluble\nPrussian blue in distilled water. This addi-\ntion makes the ink, which was previously proof\nagainst alkalies, equally proof against acids,\nand forms a writing fluid which cannot be\nerased without destruction of the paper. The\nink writes greenish blue, but afterward turns\nblack.— Pharmacist.\n27. For Rubber Stamps.— An excellent mark-\ning ink that dries rapidly and is free from grease\nmay be cheaply pi epared, by dissolvine-\nCrystallized aniline black J^ oz.\nIn pure alcohol 15 oz.\nAnd adding concentrated glycer-\nine 15 oz.\nto the solution. Thisliqu.d is poured upon the\ncushion and rubbed with a brush,\n28. Red marking ink, unaffected by soap alka-\nlies is made asfollows: Enough finely powdered\ncinnabar to form a moderately thick liquid is\nvery intimately mixed with egg albumen pre-\nviously diluted with an equal bulk of water,\nand beaten to a froth and filtered through\nfine linen. Marks are formed on cloth with this\nliquid by means of a quill and are fixed after\nthey have become dry by pressing on the re-\nverse side with a hot iron. This might work in\na rubber stamp by adding glycerine, but it is\nrecommended to use the quill.\n29. Tyrian Purple Ink for Marking Linen.\nVon Bele gives the following method for pre-\nparing an ink for marking linen and cotton\nNeutralize 75 grn. carbonate of ammonia with\npure nitric acid, and triturate 45 to 60 grn. car-\nmine with the solution. Mordant the fabric\nwith a mixed solution of acetate of al umina\nand tin salt, and write upon it, when it is per-\nfectly dry, with the ink.\n30. Purple Marking Ink.— A purple marking\nink can be prepared by mixing 1 part bichlor-\nide of platinum with 16 parts distilled water.\nThe place where the letters have to be written\nmust be moistened with a solution of 3 parts\ncarbonate of soda, 3 parts gum arabic and 12\nparts water. The spot is then dried and made\nsmooth. After the letters have been written\nwith platinum ink and become dry, the linen is\nmoistened with a solution of 1 part chloride of\ntin in 4 parts distilled water, when an intense\nand beautiful purple red color makes its ap-\npearance.\n31. Indelible Ink for Paper.— A good formula\nis the following Gelatine, 2 grn.; bichromate\nof potash, 2 grn.; nigrosine, 10 grn.; water, 1\nfl. oz. Dissolve the gelatine and nigrosine in\nmost of the water, and the bichromate of po-\ntassium in the remainder. Mix the two solu-\ntions in an amber colored bottle. If it is found\nthat the ink gums in the pen, the quantity of\ngelatine and bichromate may be somewhat re-\nduced. But the ink, when properly made, and\ndry, cannot be entirely removed from paper\nby hot or cold water, acids or alkalies.\n32. Ink for Marking Textile Fabrics.— Tritu-\nrate 4 parts of powdered soluble nigrosine in\nabout 15 parts of hot water, and strain the hot\nsolution repeatedly through fine silk, or filter\nit through filter paper, using a hot funnel.\n33. a. Dissolve in 60 grm. water 8*25 grm. crys-\ntalline chloride of copper, 10 65 grm. chlorate\nof soda, 5*35 grm. chloride of ammonium.\nb. Dissolve 20 grm. hydrochlorate of ani-\nline in 30 grm. of distilled water, add 20 grm.\nsolution of gum arabic (1 part of gum to 2 of\nwater), 10 grm. glycerine. If 4 parts of the\nsolution b is mixed cold with 1 part solution a,\na greenish liquid is obtained which may be\nused at once for marking linen, but as it de-\ncomposes in a few days, it is better to preserve\nthe two solutions separately, mixing when de-\nsired for use. The writing is at first greenish,\nbut is blackened by exposure to steam.\nA Two-Bottle Marking Ink. By R. Wright.—\nIn The Chemist and Druggist, the following\nformulae were given:\nNo. 1 Solution.\nChloride of copper (in crys-\ntals) 8*52 grn.\nChloride of sodium 10*65 grn.\nChloride of ammonium 5 35 grn.\nWater 1 H. drm.\nDissolve.\nNo. 2 Solution.\nHydrochlorate of aniline 20 grn.\nDistilled water 30 min.\nMucilage of acacia 20 min.\nGlycerine 10 min.\nDissolve.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0291.jp2"},"288":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n276\nInks.\nFor use as a marking ink, 4 drops of No. 2\nsolution are mixed with 1 drop of No. 1.\nin The Chemist and Druggist for April 30,\n1887, the following formula was recom-\nmended\nCrawshaw s black dye 1 drm.\nAcetic acid 1 drm.\nRectified spirit 1 drm.\nWater 4 drm.\nDigest the dye in the mixed liquids at a\ngentle heat till dissolved then add 4 fl. drm. of\nglycerine, and mix. Serves as a marking ink\non the addition of a mordant.\nIn the course of some experiments, made\nwith a view of discovering a reliable method,\nthe above mentioned recipes were tried, but\nthe results were not very encouraging. The\nfirst mentioned solution, when mixed, gives an\nink which is not nearly thick enough to write\nwith, and as a result it has a tendency to run.\nAnother disadvantage is that the writing is al-\nmost colorless when freshly done, and it is\nsometimes very difficult to trace the marks.\nOn exposure to the air it becomes considerably\ndarker, but seldom, if ever, yields a jet black,\neven on long exposure and subsequent boiling\nwith soap lye. With the second formula the\nresults were just as unsatisfactory: once or\ntwice boiling with soap had the effect of almost\nentirely obliterating the marks. From this it\nwas evident that some other process would\nhave to be adopted in order to secure anything\nlike good results.\nIn Cooley s Cyclopedia, 1 page 1626, in an\narticle on Tar Colors, 1 the following recipes\nare given for the production of aniline black.\n1. Dissolve 20 parts of potassium chlorate, 40\nparts of cupric sulphate and 16 parts of am-\nmonium chloride in 50 parts of water, warming\nthe liquid to about 60°, and then remove it from\nthe water bath. In about three minutes the\nsolution froths up and gives off vapors which\nstrongly attack the breathing organs. If the\nmass does not become black after the lapse of\na few hours it is again heated to 60°, and then\nexposed in an open place for a day or two, and\nafterward carefully washed out until no salts\nare found in the filtrate. For use in printing,\nthe black paste is mixed with a somewhat large\nquantity of albumen, and the goods after print-\ning are strongly steamed.\n2. Mix equal weights of aniline (containing\ntoluidine), hydrochloric acid and potassium\nchlorate with a minute quantity of copper\nchloride and a sufficient quantity of water, and\nleave the mixture to evaporate spontaneously,\nwhen a black powder will be obtained. From\nthis it is evident that an aniline black may be\nobtained, by the action of an oxidizing agent\nupon aniline or aniline chloride in presence of\na copper salt; and it was thought possible, by\na rearrangement of the ingredients in the above\nprocesses, to produce two solutions which, when\nmixed, would be capable of giving rise to the\nproduction of the same color. With this ob-\nject in view, the following solutions were pre-\npared\nNo. 1.\nCommercial aniline 1 fl. drm.\nDilute hydrochloric acid, B.P. 2 fl. drm.\nThick mucilage of acacia 1 fl. drm.\nNo. 2.\nCommercial aniline 1 fl. drm.\nDilute hydrochloric acid, B.P. 2 fl. drm.\nMethylated spirit. 1 fl. drm.\nThick mucilage of acacia 1 fl. drm.\nMix in the above order.\nFor mordants the following solutions were\ntried. No. 1, Chemist and Druggist formula\ngiven above, thickened with mucilage\nNo. 3.\nPotassium chlorate 20 grn.\nCupric sulphate 40 grn.\nAmmonium chloride 20 grn.\nDistilled water 6 fl. drm.\nThick mucilage of acacia 2 fl. drm.\nRub the solid ingredients to powder, to dis-\nsolve in the water (boiling), then add the gum\nsolution and mix.\nNo. 4.\nCopper chloride« 40 grn.\nSodium chloride 30 grn.\nAmmonium chloride 20 grn.\nPotassium chlorate 20 grn.\nDistilled water 5 fl. drm.\nThick mucilage of acacia. 3 fl. drm.\nDissolve the solid ingredients in the water,\npreviously heated to the boiling point; add the\nmucilage and mix.\nEach of the aniline solutions was tried with\nthe three mordants, with fairly satisfactory\nresults. The aniline solution without spirit\nseemed to promise best, and certainly gives an\nindelible black with Nos. 2 and 3 copper solu-\ntions.\nIt occurred to me that possibly the aniline\nmight be improved by the addition of a little\ntoluidine, and one or two experiments were\ntried with the addition of the solid orthotolui-\ndine. The following solutions were made\nNo. 1.\nAniline 1 fl. drm.\nToluidine 10 grn.\nDilute hydrochloric acid, B.P. 2 fl. drm.\nMucilage of acacia 2fl.drm.\nDissolve the toluidine in the aniline, add the\nacid and the mucilage and mix.\nNo. 2. Like No. 1, with the addition of 1 fluid\ndrm. methylated spirit.\nBoth these solutions give good results with\nmordants Nos. 2 and 3; the marking is clear and\ndistinct, and turns perfectly black when boiled\nwith soap lye. No. 1 solution of aniline and\ntoluidine, with No. 3 mordant, yields probably\nthe best ink. A quill pen should always be used\nwith inks of this character, and the goods, after\nbeing marked, should be left for a day or two\nbefore being washed, in order to give time for\nthe chemical reaction which results in the pro-\nduction of the aniline black to take place.\nI have by me now samples of linen which were\nmarked with an ink of this character over three\nyears ago, and which have repeatedly been\nboiled with a strong soap solution since then,\nand the marking is as distinct to-day as when\nfirst written. One of these specimens I inclose\nfor your inspection. [Results good.— Ed. C. DJ]\nIndestructible Ink. 1. Pulverized verdigris,\ny± oz.; sal ammoniac, 114 oz.; lampblack, }4 oz.;\nwater, 8% oz. Shake well before using.\n2. Hausmann s Indestructible Ink.— Mix 1\npart genuine Trinidad asphaltum with 4 parts\noil of turpentine; color with a sufficiency of\nplumbago for black, or vermilion for red, ink.\n3. Close s Indestructible Ink.— Mix 25 grn.\npowdered cobalt and 200 grn. oil of lavender by\na gentle heat; color with 3 grn. lampblack and 1\ngrn. indigo, both in fine powder. If a red color\nis required, omit the lampblack and indigo, and\nadd sufficient vermilion to make the mixture a\ngood color.\n4. Traille.— Dissolve gluten in pyroligneous\nacid. This produces a soap like fluid, which\nshould be diluted to the strength of ordinary\nvinegar. Add to every quart of this fluid y 2 oz.\nlampblack and 40 grn. of indigo. Reagents\nwhich destroy ordinary ink have no effect on\nit. It is of a beautiful color and flows readily\nfrom the pen. It cannot be effaced by water.\n5. Gaffard.— Two parts lampblack; 24 parts\npotash water glass of the consistency of sirup;\n2 parts aqua ammonia; 76 parts distilled Avater.\nIndia Ink.— I. Indian ink consists of finely di-\nvided carbon cemented together by certain\nglutinous vegetable juices, gum, gelatine, etc.\nThe precise nature of the cement or mucilage\nused by the Chinese in the manufacture of\ntheir inks is not known. But the greater part\nof the ink now sold as Indian ink consists of\nfine lampblack and glue. Purify fine lampblack\nby washing it with a solution of caustic soda,","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0292.jp2"},"289":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n277\nInks.\ndry and make it into a thick paste with a weak\nsolution of geiatine containing- a few drops of\nmusk essence and about half as much amber-\ngris; mould and dry. Instead of gelatine the\nfollowing solution may be used seed lac, 1 oz.;\nborax, M oz.; water, 1 pt.; boil until solution is\neffected and make up with water to pt.\n2. Purify fine lampblack by washing it with a\nsolution of caustic soda, dry and make into a\nthick paste with a weak solution of gelatine,\ncontaining a few drops of musk essence and\nabout half as much ambergris; mould and dry.\nInstead of gelatine the following solution may\nbe used seed lac, 1 oz.; borax, 34 oz.; water, 1\npt.; boil until a solution is effected and make\nup with water to pt.\n3. Dissolve horn strip with caustic kali root\ntill it is melted. The brown liquid is to be\nboiled in an iron kettle until it is thick. Then\npour on it boiling water, double its weight, and\nprecipitate it with dissolved alum. Dry, grind\nand mix it with gum water and pour it in a\nmould. A few drops of essence of musk, or of\nambergris, may be added as perfume.\n4. Horse beans or the kernels of the stones of\napricots.— Must be burnt in an oven till per-\nfectly black, ground to a fine powder, and\nmade into a paste with a solution of gum ara-\nble, and then formed into cakes. [Last two\nformulas not recommended.— Ed.]\n5. Mix the finest lampblack with a solution of\n100 grn. of lac with 20 grn. of borax and 4 oz. of\nwater.\n6. Pure lampblack mixed with asses skin glue\nand scented with musk.\n7. For making a deep black Indian ink, which\nwill also give neutral tints in its half shades,\nrub thoroughly together 8 parts lampblack, 64\nparts water and 4 parts finely pulverized in-\ndigo. Boil the mixture until most of the water\nhas evaporated; then add 5 parts gum arabic, 2\nparts glue and 1 part extract of chiccory. Boil\nthe mixture again till it has thickened to a\nEaste, then shape it in wooden moulds which\nave been rubbed with olive or almond oil.\n8. Most of the black Indian ink met with in\ncommerce possesses the disadvantage that it\nblots when a damp brush is passed over it, or,\nas draughtsmen say, it does not stand. The\naddition of alum does but little good, but bi-\nchromate of potash accomplishes the object by\nrendering insoluble the glue which the ink con-\ntains, and thus making the ink permanent.\nThe bichromate of potash possesses a deep yel-\nlow (almost red) color, but does not at all injure\nthe shade of the ink, as 1% of it in a very fine\npowder, intimately mixed with the ink, is suffi-\ncient. The bichromate must always be mixed\nwith the ink in a dry state, otherwise the latter\nmight lose its friability in water. A drawing\nwhich has been made with this ink in the dark,\nor by artificial light, must be exposed to sun-\nlight for a few minutes, which renders the bi-\nchromated glue insoluble in water. Draughts-\nmen who cannot provide themselves with such\nink make use of a dilute solution of bichromate\nof potash in rubbing up the ink paper, if the\nink is thick enough.\n9. A substance much of the same nature and\napplicable to the same purpose as Indian ink\nmay be formed in the following manner Con-\nvert 3 oz. isinglass into size by dissolving it\nover a fire in 6 oz. of soft water; dissolve 1 oz.\nSpanish licorice in 2 oz. soft water in another\nvessel over a fire; grind up on a slab with a\nheavy muller 1 oz. ivory black with the licor-\nice mixture; add this compound to the isinglass\nsize while hot and stir well together till thor-\noughly incorporated. Evaporate away the\nwater and then cast the remaining composition\nin a leaden mould slightly oiled, or make it up\nin any other convenient way. This composi-\ntion will be found quite as good as the genuine\narticle. The isinglass size mixed with the\ncolors work well with the brush. The licorice\nrenders it easily dissolvable on the rubbing up\nwith water, to which the isinglass alone would\nbe somewhat reluctant; it also prevents it\ncracking and peeling off from the ground on\nwhich it is laid.\n10. Gray. Pure lampblack made up with\nasses skin glue and scented with musk.\n11. Merimee. Dissolve superfine glue in\nwater, add a strong solution of nutgalls and\nwash the precipitate in hot water; then dis-\nsolve it in a fresh solution of glue, filter, evap-\norate to a proper thickness and form it into a\npaste with purified lampblack.\n12. Seed lac, 14 oz.; borax, 1}4 drm.; water,\npt.; boil to 8 oz., filter and make a paste of\npure lampblack. When dry it resists the action\nof water.\nThe Chinese do not use glue in the prepara-\ntion of their ink, but an infusion or decoction\nof certain seeds abounding in a glutinous,\ntransparent mucilage, which imparts bril-\nliancy and durability to the color. Starch con-\nverted into gum by means of sulphuric acid or\nBritish gum has been recommended as a sub-\nstitute.— M. Merimee.\n13. French.— Indian ink, diffused through\nwater, acidulated with hydrochloric acid. For\nquills.\n14. Indian ink diffused through water slightly\nalkalized with liquor of potassa. For metallic\npens.\n15. To improve Indian ink for drawing, so\nthat even the thickest lines will quickly dry,\nadd 1 part of carbolic acid to 80 parts of the\nink. If, by mistake, too much has been added,\nit may be rectified by putting in more Indian\nink. If the mixture is properly performed, the\nink is as easy to draw with as it is without car-\nbolic acid, but dries quickly and may even be\nvarnished without discharging.\nTo Fix Indian Ink on Paver.— -It is a fact well\nknown to photographers that animal glue,\nwhen treated with bichromate of potash and\nexposed to the sunlight for some time, is in-\nsoluble in water. It has been found by analysis\nthat Indian ink contains such animal glue, and\nconsequently, if a small quantity of bichromate\nof potash be used with it, the lines drawn with\nsuch prepared ink will not be affected by water,\nproviding that they have been exposed to the\nsunlight for about an hour.\nLiquid India Ink.— A little glycerine added\nacts as a preservative, and causes the ink to\nflow well. Too much glycerine should not be\nused, as it will prevent the ink from drying,\nand in this case it is, of course, easily blotted\nor smeared. Keep in well corked bottles.\nImitation of India Ink. Grind together\nlampblack and gelatine, the gelatinizing power\nof which has been partly destroyed by boiling\nwith water. Scent with camphor and make\ninto sticks.\nIndulin Ink.— Coupier Collins blue black\nink, known by the name of indulin, is prepared\nas follows: Dissolve 20 parts indulin in 1,000\nparts water. This forms a writing ink of\ngood color. This ink can be washed out with\nwater.\nJapan Ink.— I. Take of Aleppo galls lb.;\nlogwood chips and copperas, each J4 lb.; gum\narabic, 3 oz.; sugar, 1 oz.; sulphate of copper,\nV£ oz.; sugar candy, y% oz. Put the galls and\nlogwood in 6 qt. water. Boil slowly until the\nwater is reduced in volume one half. Strain\nthrough cotton flannel, and add the other in-\ngredients. Keeping the solution warm, stir\nuntil all the ingredients added are dissolved\nIt should then be placed in a deep glass vessel\nand allowed to settle. The ink may be removed\nfrom the settlings by pouring off carefully, or\nusing a siphon. The gloss of the ink may be in-\ncreased or diminished by increasing or dimin-\nishing the amount of gum used in the recipe.\nIf carbolic acid be added until its odor is just\nperceptible, it will prevent moulding. Oil of\ncloves added will also effect the same result,\nand it gives the ink a less offe nsive odor.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0293.jp2"},"290":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n278\nInks.\n2. Dissolve in y% pt. soft water oz. of potas-\nsium bichromate, and add the solution to 6\noz. of logwood extract, dissolved in 1 gal. of\nwater; then dissolve in 1 gal. water by con-\ntinued boiling, borax, 6 oz.; shellac, 1% oz.\nMix all together while warm and add 3 oz. of\nammonia.\nLithographic Writing and Drawing Ink.—\nTallow, 4 oz.; wax, 4 oz.; soap, 4 oz.; shellac,\n4 oz.; fine Paris black, q. s. This is an ex-\ncellent ink for drawing on stone. For\ntransfer paper the following proportions\nare better: Tallow, 4 oz.; wax, 5 oz.; soap,\n4 oz.; shellac, 3 oz.; black, about half the\nquantity used for stone. The fire for ink\nmaking should be a clear one, yet not low, as\nthe operation requires some time. Put into\nthe saucepan the tallow and wax and when\nmelted throw in the soap a little at a time. It\nmust be put in in small pieces and time be\nallowed for each piece to part with its water\n(which may be known by the cessation of the\nebullition which follows). When the soap is dis-\nsolved in the wax and tallow, the heat must be\ncontinued until the dense, light colored fumes\npassing off can be ignited upon the application\nof a light. If the flame be two or three inches\nhigh the saucepan may be removed from the\nfire, when the burning will probably be con-\ntinued without further application of heat to\nthe bottom. Stirring with a rod will facilitate\nthe passing off of the vapor. It must be burned\nuntil the 12 oz. are reduced to nearly 8 oz.\nThen put out the flame and add the shellac a\nlittle at a time, taking care that it does not boil\nover. Add the black. Ink that is not suf-\nficiently burnt becomes thick and slimy on\nstanding for two or three hours after mixing\nwith water. Place a grain or so on a saucer and\ndrop upon it a little distilled water watch it\nfor a few seconds and notice whether the ink\nbecomes lighter in color. If it does, it is a sign\nthat the burning has been insufficient. Heat\nagain and allow the white fumes to pass off for\na few minutes without catching fire. Try the\nink again. Cast it into sticks for convenient\nuse.\nConsiderable difference of opinion appears to\nexist as to the qua tity of black to be used. It\nis variously stated at from one-sixth to one-\ntwentieth of the whole. It is better to err on\nthe side of putting too little than too much\nblack, because the former can be easily reme-\ndied. The black must be ground. If it be\nground in turpentine and cautiously added to\nthe ink the heat will vaporize the turpentine.\nIf it is added in dry powder there will be con-\nsiderable difficulty in diffusing it through the\nmass.— Text Book of Lithography.\nPlate Transfer Ink.— The making of re-trans-\nfer ink for taking impressions from copper\nplates is conducted in the same manner as that\nfor writing and drawing. In the following re-\nceipts it is preferable to burn only the first\nthree of the ingredients by setting them on fire\nafter they attain sufficient heat to do so. *For\nthe quantities first named they may burn for\nfifteen minutes. If after the other ingredients\nare melted the ink is too soft, it is best not to\nset them on fire, but to keep up the heat until\nthe necessary degree of hardness is arrived at.\nMelt the ingredients in the order they are set\ndown.\n1. Tallow, 4 oz.; wax, 4oz.; soap, 4oz.; shellac,\n4 oz.; pitch, 4 oz.\n2. Varnish, 2 oz.; tallow, \\y% oz.; wax, 4 oz.;\nsoap, 3 oz.; shellac, 5 oz.; pitch, 5 oz.; lamp-\nblack, 2% oz.\n3. Varnish, 8 oz.; tallow, 10 oz.; wax, 16 oz.;\nsoap, 8 oz.; shellac, 14 oz.; pitch, 7 oz.; lamp-\nblack, 2 oz.\n4. Tallow, 8 oz.; soap, 4oz.; wax, 8oz.; shellac,\n4 oz.; lampblack,! oz.; Venice turpentine, 8 oz.;\nBurgundy pitch, 8 oz.\nWhere varnish is employed that should be\nburnt alto.— Text Book of Lithography.\nLithographic Inks. (Senef elder)\n1. Lampblack, 1 part soap, 4 parts wax, 12\nparts tallow, 4 parts.\n2. Lampblack, 1 part soap, 4 parts wax, 12\nparts shellac, 4 parts.\n3. Lampblack, 1 part soap, 4 parts tallow, 8\nparts shellac, 8 parts.\n4. Lampblack, 1 part; soap, 4 parts; wax, 8\nparts shellac, 4 parts.\n5. Lampblack, 1 part soap, 4 parts wax, 8\nparts tallow, 4 parts shellac, 4 parts.\n6. Lampblack, 1 part soap, 4 parts wax, G\nparts; tallow, 2 parts; shellac, 4 parts mastic,\n3 parts Venice turpentine, 1 part.\n7. Lampblack, 1 part soap, 4 parts wax, 2\nparts tallow, 6 parts shellac, 3 parts mastic,\n5 parts.\nLithographic Ink.— 1. Tallow, 2 oz.; virgin\nwax, 2 oz.; shellac, 2 oz.; common soap, 2 oz.;\nlampblack, oz. The wax and tallow are first\nput in an iron saucepan with a cover, and\nheated till they ignite while they are burning\nthe soap must be thrown in in small pieces, one\nat a time, taking care that the first is melted\nbefore a second is put in. When all the soap is\nmelted the ingredients are allowed to continue\nburning till they are reduced one-third in\nvolume. The shellac is now added, and as soon\nas it is melted the flame must be extinguished..\nIt is often necessary in the course of the opera-\ntion to extinguish the flame and take the sauce-\npan from the fire, to prevent the contents from\nboiling over but if any parts are not com-\npletely melted, they must be dissolved over the\nfire without being again ignited. The black is\nnow to be added. When it is completely mixed\nthe whole mass should be poured out on a\nmarble slab, and a heavy weight laid upon it to\nrender its texture fine. The utmost care and\nexperience are required in the making both the\nink and chalk, and even those who have had the\ngreatest practice often fail. Sometimes it is\nnot sufficiently burned, and when mixed with\nwater appears slimy it must then be remelted\nand burned a little more. Sometimes it is too\nmuch burned, by which the greasy particles\nare more or less destroyed in this case it must\nbe remelted, and a little more soap and wax\nadded. This ink is for writing or pen drawing\non the stone. The ink for transfers should\nhave a little more wax in it.— Workshop Re-\nceipts.\n2. Mastic in tears, 8 oz.; shellac, 12 oz.; Ve-\nnice turpentine, 1 oz.; melt together, add wax,\n1 lb.; tallow, 6 oz.; when dissolved, further add\nhard tallow soap, in shavings, 6 oz.; when the\nwhole is combined, add lampblack 4 oz.; mix\nwell, cool a little, and then pour it into moulds\nor on a slab, and when cold cut it into square\npieces.\n3. M. Lasteyrie.— Dry tallow soap, mastic in\ntears, and common soda in fine powder, of\neach 30 parts shellac, 150 parts lampblack, 12\nparts mix as last. Both the above are used for\nwriting on lithographic stones.\n4. Autographic— White wax, 8 oz.; and\nwhite soap, 2 to 3 oz.; melt when well combin-\ned add lampblack, 1 oz.; mix well, and heat it\nstrongly then add shellac, 2 oz.; again heat it\nstrongly stir well together, cool a little, and\npour it out as before. With this ink lines may\nbe drawn of the finest to the fullest class, with-\nout danger of its spreading, and the copy may\nbe kept for years before being transferred.\n5. White soap and white wax, of each 10 oz.;\nmutton suet, 3 oz.; shellac and mastic, of each\n5 oz. lampblack, 3J^ oz. mix as above. Both\nthe above are used for writing on lithographic\npaper. When the last one is employed, the\ntransfer must be made within a week.\nRemarks.— The above inks are rubbed down\nw th a little water in a cup or saucer for use, in\nthe same way as common water color cakes, or\nIndian ink. In winter, the operation should\nbe performed near the fire, or the saucer should\nbe placed over a basin containing a little warm\nor tepid water. Either a steel pen or camel s","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0294.jp2"},"291":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n279\nInks.\nhair pencil may be employed with the ink.—\nCooley.\n6. Ink.— Writing on Lithographic Stones.\nMastic in tears, 8 oz.; shellac, 12 oz.; Venice\nturpentine, 1 oz. Melt together, add 1 lb. wax,\n6 oz. tallow when they are dissolved add G oz.\nhard tallow soap shavings and mix. Then add\n4 oz. lampblack. Mix all well together, let cool\nslightly, then pour into moulds, and cut into\nconvenient shaped cakes.\n7. Melt 10 oz. of wax, 8 oz. of shellac, 5 oz. of\nmastic, 4 oz. each of pure tallow and hard\ntallow soap, Yz oz. Venetian turpentine. Mix\nwith these 2^ oz. of lampblack. This ink is\nrubbed up with water like water colors, and\nforms an emulsion.\nLuminous Ink.— Phosphorous Luminous Ink\nPhosphorous, drm.; oil of cinnamon, oz.;\nmix, cork well and heat gently until thorough-\nly united. A letter written with this ink can\nonly be read in a dark room; the writing will\nhave the appearance of fire.\nMarking Ink for Packages. 1. Take lamp-\nblack and mix thoroughly with sufficient tur-\npentine to make it thin enough to flow from\nthe brush. Powdered ultramarine, instead of\nlampblack, makes a fine blue marking mixture\nfor the same purpose.\n2. An excellent and very cheap ink is made\nby mixing 34 oz. of bichromate of potassa and\n4 oz. of extract of logwood in a stone jar or\ndemijohn with 2 gal. of hot water. Shake well\nand let it stand for about two weeks, shaking\noccasionally. See also Indelible Inks above.\nFor Bales.\nShellac t 2 oz.\nBorax. 2 oz.\nWater 25 oz.\nGum arabic 2 oz.\nVenetian red sufficient to color.\nBoil the borax and shellac in the water until\nthey are dissolved, add the gum arabic, and\nwithdraw from the fire. When the solution\nhas become cold, complete 25 oz. with water\nand add Venetian red enough to bring it to a\nsuitable consistency and color. This ink must\nbe preserved in a glass or earthenware vessel.\nMetals, Ink for 1 Writing on.—l. Inks for writ-\ning on metallic surfaces may be made as fol-\nlows: 2. One part verdigris (acetate of copper),\n1 part sal ammoniac, Yz part soot, 10 parts\nwater; stir well; write with a quill. 3. One grn.\nsulphate of copper dissolved in 20 grn. water;\nadd 2 drops hydrochloric acid, and enough so-\nlution of gum arabic to make the ink adhesive.\nTo make the writing appear at once, add a\nlittle pyrogallic acid. Write with a copper\npen. 4. Dissolve 2 oz: shellac in 1 pt alcohol,\nfilter through chalk, and mix with finest lamp-\nblack; forms a jet black lusterless ink, insolu-\nble in water. 5. Take Yi lb. of nitric acid and 1\noz. muriatic acid. Mix and shake well together,\nand then it is ready for use. Cover the place\nyou wish to mark with melted beeswax; when\ncold, write your inscription plainly in the wax\nclear to the metal with a sharp instrument.\nThen apply the mixed acids with a feather,\ncarefully filling each letter. Let it remain one\nto ten hours; according to the appearance\ndesired; then wash and remove the wax. 6.\nMake a saturated solution of sulphate of cop-\nper in gum water. Write with a quill pen.\nWhen quite dry, give the labels a coat of white\nhard varnish, the labels being slightly warmed\nbefore application. 7. Chloride of platinum, 34\noz.; soft water, 1 pt.; to be kept in glass and\nused Avith a quill pen. 8. Verdigris, sal ammo-\nniac, and levigated lampblack, of each Y oz.;\ncommon vinegar, 34 pt.; mix thoroughly. 9. Is\nthe better, but rather expensive both will do\nfor zinc, iron or steel.\nNon-Corrosive Ink (Haenle s). Pulverized\ngallnuts, 50 parts gum, 25 parts sulphuric\nacid (in 800 parts of distilled or rain water), 25\nparts; a few drops of chloride of mercury.\nPapyrograph Ink.— Dissolve any of the solu-\nble dyes in warm glycerine.\nPerpetual Ink for Monuments.— 1. One lb. of\nlampblack, and 10 lb. pitch; turpentine q. s.;\nmix without heat.\n2. Pitch, 22 parts; lampblack, 2 parts; tur-\npentine, q. s. Warm and stir.\nObliterated Ink. 1. Wash in warm water to\nremove salt if the paper has been immersed in\nsea water, and then soak in a weak solution of\ngallic acid, say 3 grn. to the oz.\n2. Wash in clean water and soak in solution\nof proto-sulphate of iron, 10 grn. to the oz.\n3. Apply a solution of potassium ferrocya-\nnide with a brush, when the writing will ap-\npear in blue, if any iron is left of the original\nink.\nInk, to Remove Oil from.— Add a little ox gall\nand vinegar to the ink.\nPharmaceutical Ink.— Pharmaceutical ink\nis the name applied by Kauffeisen (Prog.\nRundsch.) to a solution of 30 parts of alizarin\npaste in a small quantity of water, in which 15\nparts of bicarbonate of soda have previously\nbeen dissolved. This solution is added to an\naqueous solution of 50 parts of logwood, with\nenough water to make the total weigh 2,000\nparts, and filtered. Some iron filings and a few\ncloves are added next, and the mixture is ex-\nposed to the sunlight for a week, with frequent\nagitation. The liquid is then strained, and\nabout y%% carbolic acid added to prevent mould-\ning. K. claims for this ink the following vir-\ntues: Cheapness, great fluidity, absence of\ntendency to become acid, and therefore not\nattacking metallic pens, and finally permanency\nif exposed to light.\nPortable Ink (Boettger s).— Saturate several\nsheets of paper with aniline black, and press\nthem together intQ a compact and portable\nmass. For writing it is merely necessary to\ntear off a piece of this paper and steep it in a\nlittle water.\nInk Powder. 1. Extract of logwood,150 parts;\nbichromate of potash, lYz parts. Pulverize\nand mix thoroughly with 8% of the weight of\nthe whole of indigo blue.\n2. One lb. nutgalls, 7 oz. copperas and 7 oz.\ngum arabic. Pulverize and mix. This amount\nof ink powder will make 1 gal. of good black\nink. Two or three powdered cloves should be\nmixed with each pound of powder to prevent\nmoulding.\n3. Reduce best quality of soluble nigrosin to\nimpalpable powder by grinding. The powder\ndissolved in water makes an excellent and dur-\nable ink.\n4. A good ink powder, which might with a\nlittle mucilaginous material be made into\nblocks by pressure, consists of Aleppo galls, 3\nlb.; copperas, 1 lb.; gum arabic, Yz lb.; white\nsugar, H lb.; powder and mix; 2 oz. of this\npowder dissolved in 1 pt. of boiling water gives\na very good ink.\nPrinting Ink.— Mix alcohol with tar, then fire\nthe alcohol, and condense the vapors arising\nfrom the combustion of the mixture; 10 gal. of\nthe oil thus made is then mixed by boiling\nwith 1 gal. of burnt corn meal or flour and\nabout 10 oz. of linseed oil as a drier.\nColored.— Printing inks may be made in a\nnumber of colors besides black. The principal\nare the following:\n1. Blue.— Indigo gives a deep but dull blue; it\nis cold but permanent.\n2. Prussian blue needs much grinding, and\nextra soap: it affords a deep bright color, and\nis useful for making greens.\n3. Antwerp blue is easily ground to the\nproper degree of fineness, makes a good ink,\nand works clean and well; its tint is bright and\nlight, with a slight green tendency.\n4. Green.— Various shades of green may be\nproduced by suitable admixture of blues and\nyellows, Prussian blue and chromate of lead\nmake a good rich green; indigo and the same\nvellow, a deeper, duller color; Antwerp blue","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0295.jp2"},"292":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n280\nInks.\nand the same yellow, a brilliant rich green.\nThe chromate must be quite pure to insure\nbright colors.\n5. Purple.— Different shades of purple may\nbe made by grinding together carmine or pur-\nple lake with Prussian blue.\n6. Red. Carmine may be readily ground into\na fine ink of brilliant color by admixture with\nblack ink varnish made with balsam of copaiba.\nIt is expensive, but valuable for special pur-\nposes. 7. Crimson lake is easily reduced by the\nmuller; it works clean, and does not require\nmore soap than is contained in the varnish, but\nit does not possess much depth. 8. A deeper\ntone than can be obtained from commercial\nlake may be produced in the following manner:\nOne oz. best cochineal, powdered, and boiled in\n1 qt. water, till the coloring matter is extracted;\nlet the cochineal subside, and pour the liquid\ninto another vessel; when cold, gradually add\nsome chlorate of tin, with constant stirring,\ntill the supernatant liquid, on standing, be-\ncomes nearly colorless; then add a little pow-\ndered alum. Assist the solution by stirring;\nallow to subside; pour off the excess liquid;\nwash the colored residue with 3 or 4 waters, to\nremove the acid; and dry carefully and slowly.\nThe addition of cream of tartar during the\nprocess will give a purple tint. 9. Vermilion\nmay be used for red ink where neatness is re-\nquired, as for title lines of books. The quanti-\nty varies much, and necessitates care in its pro-\nportions. It requires much soap to make it\nwork clean. 10. For cheap work, such as post-\ning bills, red lead may be used; it requires ad-\nditional soap to make it work clean, and its\ncolor soon changes to black. 11. An excellent\npermanent red, of rich tone, may be produced\nfrom Indian red. 12. Venetian red is easily\nground into a smooth ink, and requires but\nlittle more soap than the varnish usually con-\ntains; it is not very intense. 13. Two oz.mineral\norange red, 1 oz. Chinese vermilion; grind in\nprinters varnish or oil, as prepared for ordi-\nnary printing ink. 14. Boil linseed oil till\nsmoke arises, then apply a lighted paper stuck\nin a cleft stick, and then remove the pot\nfrom the fire, allowing the oil to burn till\nit can be drawn out into strings l 2 in. long.\nAdd 1 lb. rosin for each qt. oil, and lb. dry\nbrown soap cut into slices; put the latter in cau-\ntiously, as the water in the soap causes a vio-\nlent commotion. Then grind up the oil with\nsufficient pigment vermilion, red lead,carmine,\nIndian red, Venetian red, and the lakes are all\nsuitable for printing ink. Grind on a stone\nwith a muller.\n15. Yellow.— The highest yellow is obtained\nfrom chromate of lead, which is easily ground\ninto a fine ink, works freely and well, and re-\nquires but little soap beyond what the var-\nnish contains. 16. Yellow ocher is easily\nground into a fine ink; it gives a useful color,\ndull but permanent.\nCopper Plate Printing Inks.— Take linseed oil,\n1 pt., put into a dry iron saucepan and Ijoil\nuntil it will readily ignite by applying lighted\npaper; let it burn ten minutes; now put the\nlid on and it will cease to burn add nearly\noz. litharge, and stir well; when cool, ready for\nuse, mix a little of this oil with lampblack,\nforming a thick paste; grind this very fine with\na muller. The grinding is most important.\nBoil the oil out of doors.\n1. Black.— Frankfort black, finely ground\nwith boiled linseed oil, or, for very fine work,\nfat oil.\n2. Take linseed oil, 1 pt.; boil out of doors in a\ndry saucepan till it will ignite on applying\nlighted paper; let it burn ten minutes, then\nput the lid on, and the flame will go out. Stir\nin \\i oz. litharge. When cool, grind into a\npaste with lampblack, using a muller.\n3. Red.— Mineral orange red, 5 oz.; Chinese\nred, 2 oz.\n4. Blue.— Celestial blue, 2 oz.; marine blue, 3\noz.\n5. Green.— Mineral green, 2 oz.; chrome green,\n3oz.\n6. Brown.— Burnt umber, 2 oz.; rose pink, 1 oz.\n7. Lilac— Prussian blue, 1 oz.; Chinese red,\n2 oz.\n8. Pink.— Mineral pink, 2 oz.; satin white, 1 oz.\n9. Orange.— Orange red, 2 oz.; flake white, 1\noz. The above to be ground and mixed with\nCanada balsam. Or,\n10. Red.— Vermilion.\n11. Yellow.— King s yellow.\n12. Blue.— Smalts.\n13. Green.— King s yellow— green.\n14. Blue. Prussian blue, and flake white.\n15. Brown.— Burnt umber.\n16. Dark Brown.— Burnt umber and Frank-\nfort black.\n17. Puce. Frankfort black and vermilion.\n18. Brown.— Frankfort black, and drop lake.\nThese to be ground and mixed with nut or lin-\nseed oil.\n19. Gold.— Gold bronze mixed with dark oak\nand mahogany varnish.\n20. Silver, Copper, Ruby.— The same as for\ngold, merely substituting the different bronzes.\nCards printed in gold, silver, or colors should,\nwhen dry, be placed on a very smooth copper\nor steel plate, not engraved, and passed through\na copper plate press with rather a tight pres-\nsure; this would also improve the appearance\nof cards printed in like manner with letter-\npress.\nPrinting Pads, to Remove Aniline Ink from.\nSaturate a sponge in water as hot as possible to\nbear the hand in, pass the wet sponge across\nthe face of the pad and the ink will disappear.\nThen rinse off the face with the sponge dipped\nin cold water. Experience has also taught\nthat when the print begins to get dim, if you\nwill dampen the face of the pad with a sponge\ndipped in cold water, the ink becomes as bright\nas at first, and in this way a much larger num-\nber of letters may be pulled than if this process\nis not employed.\nPrinters 1 Ink, to Remove.— 1. Place a thick\npad of white blotting paper beneath the sheet\nof paper which is soiled. Then apply sulphuric\nether with cotton wool, gently rubbing. Finally\napply white blotting paper to absorb the color.\nContinue the application of fresh ether and\nrepeat until all stains disappear. Do this away\nfrom a light.\n2. Printers ink is soluble in ether, *oil of tur-\npentine, and benzine. Washing with warm\ncaustic lyes is also recommended.\n3. This is not an easy matter. It is said,\nhowever, that it can be accomplished to a\nlimited extent by means of ether or a solution\nof soap in water, naphtha, benzol, hot solutions\nin water of potassium or sodium hydroxide\n(caustic potash or soda).\nInk, to Preserve.~To Prevent Moulding of.—\n1. Mouldiness in ink may be prevented by add-\ning a little oil of cloves or a few drops of\ncreosote.\n2. A small quantity of salicylic acid, *4 grm.\nto the liter, will prevent it from moulding even\nwhen kept in open ink bottles. This is far pre-\nferable to the bad smelling carbolic acid or the\nvery poisonous bichloride of mercury, so fre-\nquently used both in ink and mucilage to pre-\nvent souring, fermentation or mould.\n3. Add a small quantity of a solution of creo-\nsote in pyroligneous acid or rectified spirit. A-\nclove placed in the ink will keep it twenty\nyears.\n4. Add a few drops of carbolic acid and clove\noil to each pint bottle.\nPurple.— 1. To a decoction of 12 part s Cam-\npeachy wood in 120 parts water, add 1 part sub-\nacetate of copper, 14 parts alum, and i parts\ngum arabic; let stand for four to five days.\n2. To a strong decoction of logwood add a\nlittle alum or chloride of tin.\nRed and Carmine Inks.—l. Genuine carmine\nink is made by placing 15 to 20 grn. carmine in\n3 oz. water, and then to add so much strong","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0296.jp2"},"293":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n281\nInks.\nliquid ammonia, drop by drop, till all the car-\nmine is dissolved; then add 20 grn. powdered\ngum arabic. It you want a cheaper ink, sub-\nstitute droplake for the carmine; but it is not\nso beautiful.\n2. Buchner s Carmine Ink.— Pure carmine, 12\ngrn.; water of ammonia, 3 oz.; dissolve, then\nadd powdered gum, 18 grn.; y, drm. powdered\ndrop lake may be substituted for the carmine\nwhere expense is an object.\n3. Use 220 grn. best carmine, 1 oz. caustic am-\nmonia, then add 7 grn. finely powdered white\ngum arabic; shake until the gum is thoroughly\ndissolved.\n4. Half a drachm of powdered drop lake and\n18 grn. powdered gum arabic, dissolved in 3 oz.\nammonia water, makes one of the finest red\nor carmine inks.\n5. Brazil wood, 2 oz.; muriate of tin, y drm\ngum arabic, 1 drm.; boil down in 32 oz. water\nto one half and strain,\n6. The following recipe for a beautiful red\nink is given by Metra, of Paris: Dissolve 25\nparts, by weight, of saffranin in 500 parts warm\nglycerine, then stir in carefully 500 parts alco-\nhol and an equal quantity of acetic acid. It is\nthen diluted with 9,000 parts water, in which is\ndissolved a little gum arabic.\n7. Use J4 lb. Brazil wood, y oz. gum arabic.\n14 oz. sugar and J4 oz. alum. Add a little vin-\negar.\n8. Red Ink, Durable. (Winckler s.)— Rub fine\n6 parts red carmine with 75 parts liquid water\nglass. Dilute this mixture with 675 parts rain\nwater. Let it stand a few days, and pour off\nthe fluid.\n9. Bottger rubs up carmine and silicate of\nsoda, and then adds to this mixture a concen-\ntrated silicate solution till the whole is of suffi-\ncient consistency to write well. The product\ngives a very brilliant ink when dry, and dries\nquickly. It must be kept out of contact of air\nin a well closed vessel.\n10. Dissolve 20 gr. pure carmine in 3 fl. oz.\nliquid ammonia; add 18 gr. powdered gum.\n11. Best ground Brazil wood, 2 oz.; diluted\nacetic acid, y pt.; alum, J4 oz. Boil them slowly\nin an enameled vessel for half an hour, strain\nand add y oz. gum.\n12. One quart white wine vinegar, 2 oz. Bra-\nzil wood and y oz. alum, bottled and well\nshaken, for a fortnight then let simmer in a\nsaucepan, and add oz. gum arabic. Let the\nwhole stand for a few days, filter and it will be\nready for use.\n13. Boil 4 oz. Pernambuco wood with 16 oz.\ndilute acetic acid and an equal quantity of\nwater, until 24 oz. remain. Add 1 oz. alum and\nevaporate again to 16 oz.; add gum arabic, 1 oz.\nand strain; and lastly, add to the cold liquid\n1 dr. protochloride of tin.\n14. Triturate in a porcelain mortar 3 drm.\nbest crystallized water soluble roseine and dis-\nsolve it in boiling distilled water, in the last\nportions of which 2 oz. gum arabic has been\ndissolved. The amount of water depends on\nthe tint which it is desired to produce.\nN. B.— Roseine is acetate of rosaniline; the\nhydrochlorate of rosaniline is known as\nluchsine. In place of roseine, eosine (or tri-\n-brom fluorescine) may be used, which gives a\nmagnificent yellow-i*ed tint.\n15. Four ounces gi-ound Brazil wood and 3 pt.\nvinegar, boiled till reduced to \\y pt., and 3 oz.\npowdered rock alum added.\n16. One quarter pound raspings of Brazil wood\ninfused in vinegar for 2 to 3 days; boil the\nlnf usioa.for 1 hour over a gentle fire and filter\nwhile hot: put it again on the fire and dissolve\nin it first, y oz. gum arabic, then y oz. alum\nand white sugar.\n17. Crimson Writing Fluid.— Powdered coch-\nineal, 1 oz.; hot water, y pt. Digest, and when\nquite cold add ammonia, 1 oz., diluted with 3 or\n4 oz. water. Macerate for a few days and de-\ncant when clear.\nResin Oil Ink.— Resin oil, iy lb.; resin, 19y\noz.; soft soap, 2J4 oz. Melt together. Add\nlampblack when cold.\nRuling Inks.— Red, for Ruling.— One pound\nBrazil wood to 1 gal. best vinegar; let the vine-\ngar simmer before you add the wood, then let\nthem simmer together for half an hour, then\nadd y± lb. alum to set the color; strain it through\na woolen or cotton cloth, cork it tight in a stone\nor glass bottle. For ruling, add y gill fresh\ngall to 1 qt. red ink, then cork it up in a bottle\nfor use.\nInk to Rule Faint Lines. Dissolve in a small\nquantity of warm water, 20 parts Prussian blue\nby the aid of 3 parts potassium ferrocyanide,\nand dilute the solution with thin gum water\nuntil the proper degree of color is obtained.\nSee also Mack ink above,\nShoemaker s Ink.— Dissolve an equal quantity\neach of copperas and gum arabic in a small\nquantity of boiling water and add a very little\nextract of logwood to the solution. If it gums,\ndilute it a little with hot water. Concentrated\nsolution of shellac in hot aqueous solution of\nborax is sometimes used in place of a portion\nof the gum.\nShow Card Ink.\nPure asphaltum 16 oz.\nVenice turpentine 18 oz.\nLampblack 4 oz.\nSpirit of turpentine 2 qt.\nDissolve and mix thoroughly.\nSilver, to Write on with a Permanent Black.\nTake burnt lead and pulverize it. Incorporate\nit next with sulphur and vinegar, to the con-\nsistency of a paint, and write with it on any\nsilver plate. Let it dry, then present it to the\nfire so as to heat the work a little, and it is\ncompleted.\nTo Write in Silver.— Finest pewter or block\ntin, iy oz.; quicksilver, 3 oz. Mix until both\nbecome fluid, grind with gum water and write\nwith it. The writing will appear as if done\nwith silver.\nSilver Ink.—l. For silver ink the process is the\nsame as for gold, substituting silver leaf for\nthe gold loaf. See Gold Ink above. Then treat\nas follows\nIn consequence of the beating between gold\nbeaters skin, it has particles of grease and\nother impurities attached to it which must be\nremoved before it can be used for ink. For\nthis purpose the whole sheets, or the com-\nmercial bronze powder, are triturated with a.\nlittle honey to a thin magma on a glass or\nporphyry plate with a pestle, as carefully as\npossible, as the beauty of the ink depends es-\nsentially on this. The finely rubbed paste is\nrinsed into a thin glass beaker, boiled for a\nlong time with water containing a little alkali,\nfrequently stirred, decanted, well washed with\nhot water and dried at a gentle heat. By boil-\ning this powder with water containing sul-\nphuric, nitric, or hydrochloric acid, different\nshades can be imparted to it.\nNext, a solution of 1 part of white gum arabic\nin 4 parts of distilled water is mixed with 1 part\nof potash water glass and triturated with the\nrequisite quantity of purified metallic powder.\nGold ink will bear more liquid then silver ink*\nsince gold covers much better; on rough paper\nmore metal is necessary than on sized paper;\non light paper more than on dark, to make the\ncolor of the ink appear equally intense.\nIn general 1 part of foil is enough for 3 or 4\nparts of the above liquid. In preparing large\nquantities of ink a low porcelain measure is\nused for transferring it to the small glass ves-\nsels where it is to be kept, and it must be con-\ntinually and thoroughly stirred, so that it will\nalways keep well mixed. It requires frequent\nstirring also when in use. It is best to mix the\ndry powder with the liquid immediately before\nusing. The ink can be used with a common\nsteel pen and flows very well when writing\nslowly, but it is better to use a pencil.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0297.jp2"},"294":{"fulltext":"AUKS.\n282\nInks.\nT consider the use of potash water glass of\ngreat importance. It greatly increases the\nmetallic luster on paper, prevents its looking\ndead, protects the writing from being discol-\nored by the action of the atmosphere, and also\nprevents its penetrating too far into the pores\nof the paper, without rendering it very viscid.\nAlthough the writing of itself possesses a high\nmetallic luster, it may be increased by gently\npolishing with a polishing steel. Inks made\nwith mosaic gold, mosaic silver, iodide of lead,\netc., are not nearly so beautiful.— C. H. Viedt.\n2. Mix 1 oz. finest block tin in shavings with\n2 oz. mercury till they become perfectly amal-\ngamated. Then shake up in a stoppered bottle\nwith enough gum water to give proper con-\nsistence. The writing, when dry, will have the\nappearance of silver.\nlAquid Silver for Vellum. Grind silver leaf\nwith gum water, or white of egg.\nSolid Inks. (Roy.)— Various qualities of inks\nare prepared in powder. By placing a small\nquantity of this powder in water, ink for writ-\ning is immediately obtained. One variety styled\nindelible ink is stated to resist the most ener-\ngetic chemical reagents. It appears to consist\nmainly of charcoal and glycerine.\nSteel, Ink for Writing on, or Tin Plates, or\nSheet Zinc.—l. Mix 1 oz. of powdered sulphate\nof copper and oz. of powdered sal ammoniac\nwith 2 oz. of diluted acetic acid, adding lamp-\nblack or vermilion.\n2. Dissolve 1 part of copper in 10 parts of\nnitric acid, and dilute with 10 parts of water.\nStencil Ink. 1. Take of shellac, 2 oz.; borax, 2\noz.; water, 25 oz.; gum arabic, 2 oz., and of Ven-\netian red a sufficiency. Boil the borax, shellac\nand some water until they are dissolved; add the\ngum arabic and withdraw from the fire. When\nthe solution has become cold complete 25 oz.\nwith water, and add more red to bring it to a\nsuitable consistency.\n2. Eight oz. mastic in tears, 12 oz. shellac, 1 oz.\nVenice turpentine; melt together, add 1 lb.\nwax, 6 oz. tallow; when dissolved add 6 oz. hard\nsoap shavings (tallow soap) and mix, then add\ncoloring matter, such as lampblack, Prussian\nblue, vermilion or carmine, chrome green or\nwhite lead or other pigment. The cake should\nbe brittle.\n3. Stencil Ink for Wood.— An excellent stencil\nink for boxes and packing cases can be made\nby mixing lampblack, fine clay and gum arabic\ntogether. The lampblack gives the color, the\nclay furnishes a body and the gum an adhesive.\nWater will answer as a solvent, but lampblack\nis so light that a few drops of vinegar or other\nacid will facilitate its admixture with the other\ningredients. Any good adhesive substance,\nsuch as dextrine or gum tragacanth, may be\nfound to answer as well as gum arabic to bind\nthe mixture.\n4. Colored Stencil Ink.-Shellac, 4 parts; borax,\n1 part dissolve in a small quantity of boiling\nwater and dilute with hot water to the con-\nsistency of very thin sirup; to this add a suffi-\ncient quantity of logwood, or Brazil wood ex-\ntract, or soluble coal tar reds, for red. For\nblue add to the lac solution soluble Prussian\nblue or blue carmine.\nFabrics, Removal of Stains from. See also\nCleansing.—]. To remove ordinary ink (tan-\nnogallate of iron) stains, the following treat-\nment is recommended: In many cases lemon\njuice will often prove efficacious.\n2. If this fails, try an aqueous solution of ox-\nalic acid, 1 part to 2 parts water, and rub well\nwith a soft cloth.\n3. Or use a solution of chloride of tin, 1 part\nto 3 parts water, or pure dilute muriatic acid, 1\nEart to 10 parts water. Apply with, a camel s\nair brush and then wash in cold water.\n4. Where the colors of the fabric are affected\nby the above treatment, moisten the spots with\nfresh milk and cover with fine salt. This should\nbe done before washing.\n5. If the fabric is fine and delicate, the stained\nportions may be dipped in melted tallow and\nthen pressed for some time between layers of\nwarm pipe clay.\n6. Stains of indelible ink, made from nitrate of\nsilver, may be removed by moistening them\nwith a brush dipped in a strong aqueous solu-\ntion of cyanide of potassium, and then well\nwashing the fabric in water. The cyanide solu-\ntion is very poisonous.\n7. Boettger recommends pyrophosphate of\nsoda for the removal of ink stains from colored\ntextiles.\n8. Try a mixture of 2 parts cream of tartar\nand 1 part of powdered alum.\n9. Tartaric acid is also recommended.\n10. Oxalic acid can also be used, but is not\nrecommended, as it is liable to destroy the fibers\nof the cloth.\n11. The Journal de Pharmacie d^Anvers recom-\nmends pyrophosphate of soda for the removal\nof ink stains. This salt does not injure vege-\ntable fiber and yields colorless compounds with\nthe ferric oxide of the ink. It is best to first\napply tallow to the ink spot, then wash in a\nsolution of pyrophosphate until both tallow\nand ink have disappeared.\n12. Stains of red aniline ink may be removed\nby moistening the spot with strong alcohol\nacidulated with nitric acid. Unless the stain is\nproduced by eosine, it disappears without diffi-\nculty. Paper is hardly affected by the process;\nstill it is always advisable to make a blank ex-\nperiment first.\n13. Marking Ink.— Dissolve 1 oz. cyanide of\npotassium in 4 oz. water; this mixture is very\npoisonous, and should therefore be used with\ngreat caution. Moisten the stained part of the\ngarment with this solution by dipping it into\nit, or by means of a small brush, and in a few\nhours the stain will be obliterated.\n14. To a solution of strong cyanide of potas-\nsium add a few grains of iodine. Repeated ap-\nplications will remove any stain caused by\nnitrate of silver.\n15. Grimm, in the Polytechnisches Notizblatt,\nproposes the following method for removing\nindelible ink and other silver stains without\nthe use of cyanide of potassium. Chloride of\ncopper is first applied to the tissue; it is next\nwashed with hyposulphite of soda solution, and\nafterward with water. It is said that this may\nbe employed on colored woven cotton tissues.\nFor white cottons and linens dilute solutions\nof permanganate of potash and hydrochloric\nacid, followed by the hyposulphite of soda and\nclear water are preferable. For cleaning the\nhands, iodine dissolved either with iodide of\npotassium, or in alcohol, is used, f ollowed by\naqua ammonia.\n16. Wet with chloride of lime and afterward\nrinse in a little ammonia or sodium of hyposul-\nphite.\n17. Rub with tincture of iodine, then wash\nwith ammonia.\n18. India Ink on Clothing.— India ink cannot\nbe removed by any chemical means, as it is\ncomposed of minute parts of carbon held in\nsuspension by water. Some of the ink may be\nremoved by sponging.\n19. Ink Stains, to Remove from Wood.— Mix\nlib. of sulphuric acid and 2 qt. water. Apply\nto the stain after scouring with sand.\n20. Ink Stains, to Remove from Hands.— Use\nammonia water, muriatic acid, and plenty of\nwater alternately, assisted by pumice stone, if\nnecessary.\n21. To Remove from Paper.— Take of chloride\nof lime lib., thoroughly pulverized, and 4 qt.\nsoft water. The above must be thoroughlj:\nshaken when first put together. I lis required\nto stand twenty-four hours, to dissolve the\nchloride of lime; then strain through a cotton\ncloth, after which add a teaspoonful of acetic\nacid (No. 8 commercial) to every ounce of the\nchloride of lime water. The eraser is used by\nreversing the penholder in the hand, dipping","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0298.jp2"},"295":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n383\nInks.\nthe end of the penholder in the fluid, and apply-\ning- it, without rubbing, to the word, figure or\nblot required to be erased. When the ink has\ndisappeared, absorb the fluid with a blotter.\nStamp Inks for Rubber Stamps. The usual\nrubber stamp inks are prepared with water sol-\nuble aniline colors and glycerine. A good\nformula, which we have tested practically, is\ngiven by Dieterich.\nI. Blue Rubber Stamp Ink\nAniline blue, water sol., IB.... 3 parts.\nDistilled water 10 parts.\nPyroligneous acid 10 parts.\nAlcohol 10 parts.\nGlycerine 70 parts.\nMix them intimately by trituration in a mor-\ntar. [The blue should be well rubbed down\nwith the water, and the glycerine gradually\nadded. When solution is effected the other in-\ngredients are added.]\nOther colorsare produced by substituting for\nthe blue any one of the following\n2. Methyl violet, 3B 3 parts.\n3. Diamond f uchsin I 2 parts.\n4. Methyl green, yello wish 4 parts.\n5. Vesu vin B (brown) 5 parts.\n6. Nigrosin AY (blue black) 4 parts.\n7. If a bright red ink is required, 3 parts of\neosin BBN are used, but the pyroligneous acid\nmust be omitted, as this would destroy the\neosin. Other aniline colors, when used for\nstamping ink, require to be acidulated.— Amer-\nican Druggist.\n8. The ordinary stamping ink made by dilut-\ning printing ink (which is made of lampblack\nand linseed varnish) with boiled linseed oil,\nstands pretty well if enough is used, but when\npoorly stamped will wash off. Dr. W. Reissig-,\nof Munich, has recently made an ink for can-\nceling stamps, which is totally indelible, and\nthe least trace of it can be detected chemically.\nIt consists of 16 parts of boiled linseed oil var-\nnish, 6 parts of the finest lampblack, and 2 to\n5 parts of iron perchloride. Diluted with\nthe quantity of boiled oil varnish, it can be\nused for a stamp. Of course it can only be used\nwith rubber stamps, for metallic type would\nbe destroyed by the chlorine in the ink. To aviod\nthis, the perchloride of iron may be disolved in\nabsolute alcohol, and enough pulverized metal-\nlic iron added to reduce it to the protochloride\nwhich is rapidly dried and added to the ink.\nInstead of the chloride, other salts of protox-\nide or peroxide of iron can be used. The iron\nunites with the cellulose and the sizing of the\npaper, so that it can easily be detected even\nafter the ink has all been washed off. Sulphide\nof ammonia is well adapted for its detection.\n9. A violet ink for rubber stamps is made by\nmixing and dissolving 2 to 4 drm. aniline vio-\nlet, 15 oz. alcohol, and 15 oz. glycerine. The\nsolution is- poured on the cushion and rubbed\nin with a brush.\n10. The following is said to be a good ink for\nuse with rubber stamps Aniline violet, 90grn.;\nboiling rain water, 1 oz.; to which is added a\nlittle glycerine and a small quantity of treacle,\nThe quantities of the last two ingredients will\nvary with the season, but half a teaspoonful\nwill be ample for the quantities of violet and\nwater specified.\nII. Red.— Dissolve hi oz. of carmine in 2 oz. of\nstrong water of ammonia and add 1 dr. of\nglycerine and oz. of dextrine.\n12. Blue.— Rub 1 oz. of Prussian blue with\nenough water to make a perfectly smooth\npaste; then add 1 oz. of dextrine, incorporate it\nwell, and finally add sufficient water to bring\nit to the proper consistence.\n13. For Linen and Cotton.— Dissolve 1 part of\nasphaltum in 4 parts of oil of turpentine and\nadd lampblack or blacklead, in fine powder, in\nsufficient quantity to render the ink of a\nproper consistence for printing with types.\n14. Rubber Stamp Color.— (Boettger.)— Bleu\ndo Lyons is dissolved to saturation with the\naid of heat in concentrated glycerine, some\nThenard s blue adued, and the liquid thickened\nwith finely powdered gum arabic.\nSteel Pens, Inks ivhich do not Corrode.— 1. Ink\nwhich does not corrode steel pens (Haenle s).\nBoil 125 parts of pulverized gallnuts, 62j^ parts\nof gum, and 62^£ parts sulphuric acid, in 2,01)0\nparts of distilled or rainwater, add a few grains\nof chloride of mercury.\n2. Runge s.— Two hundred and fifty parts\ndecoction of logwood and y± part of yellow\nchromate of potash. To prevent the ink from\nbecoming too thick add a few drops of solution\nof chloride of rnercury.\n3. Schmidt s.— Two oz. calcined iron sulphate,\n3 oz. gallnuts, 1 oz. vegetable gum. Digest in\n1 qt. distilled water.\nStone or Marble, Ink for.— Trinidad asphal-\ntum and oil of turpentine, equal parts. This is\nused in a melted state for filling in letters cut\non tombstones, marble slabs and monuments,\nand is very durable.\nSympathetic Inks. Inks which favor secret\ncorrespondence. They are very interesting\nfrom a chemical point of view.\nThe solutions used should be so nearly color-\nless that the writing cannot be seen till the\nagent is applied to render it visible.\nInks that Appear Through Heat.\n1. Write with a concentrated solution of\ncaustic potash. The wi iting will appear when\nthe paper is submitted to strong heat.\n2. Write with a solution of hydrochlorate\nof ammonia, in the proportion of 15 parts to\n100. The writing will appear when the paper\nis heated by holding it over a stove, or by pass-\ning a hot smoothing iron over it.\n3. A weak solution of nitrate of copper gives\nan invisible writing, which becomes red through\nheat.\n4. A very dilute solution of perchloride of\ncopper gives invisible characters that become\nyellow through heat.\n5. A slightly alcoholic solution of bromide of\ncopper gives perfectly invisible characters\nwhich are made apparent hy a gentle heat,\nand which disappear again through cold.\n6. Write upon rose colored paper with a solu-\ntion of chloride of cobalt. The invisible writ-\ning will become blue through heat and will\ndisappear on cooling.\n7. Write with a solution of sulphuric acid.\nThe characters will appear in black through\nheat. This ink has the disadvantage of de-\nstroying the paper.\n8. Write with lemon, onion, leek, cabbage, or\nartichoke juice. Characters written with these\njuices become very visible when the paper is\nheated.\n9. Digest 1 oz. of zaffre, or oxide of cobalt, at a\ngentle heat, with 4 oz. of nitromuriatic acid\ntill no more is dissolved, then add 1 oz. common\nsalt and 16 oz. of water. If this be written\nwith and the paper held to the fire, the writing-\nbecomes green, unless the cobalt should be\nquite pure, in which case it will be blue. The\naddition of a little nitrate of iron will then\nimpart the property of becoming green. It is\nused in chemical landscapes for the foliage.\n10. Put in a vial y oz. of distilled water, 1\ndrm. of bromide of potassium, and 1 drm. of\npure sulphate of copper. The solution is near-\nly colorless, but becomes brown when heated.\n11. Nitrate of nickel and chloride of nickel in\nweak solution form an invisible ink, which be-\ncomes green by heating, when the salt contains\ntraces of cobalt, which usually is the case;\nwhen pure, it becomes yellow\n12. When the solution of acetate of protoxide\nof cobalt contains nickel or iron, the writing\nmade by it will become green when heated;\nwhen it is pure and free from these metals, it\nbecomes blue.\n13. Milk makes a good invisible ink, and but-\ntermilk answers the purpose better. It will\nnot show if written with a clean new pen, and","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0299.jp2"},"296":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n284\nInks.\nironing with a hot flat iron is the best way of\nshowing- it up. All invisible inks will show on\nglazed paper; therefore unglazed paper should\nbe used.\n14. Burn flax so that it may be rather smoul-\ndered than burned to ashes, then grind it with\na muller on a stone, putting a little alcohol\nto it, then mix it with a little weak gum water,\nand what you write, though it seem fair, may\nbe rubbed or washed out.\n15. Boil oxide of cobalt in acetic acid. If a\nlittle common salt be added, the writing be-\ncomes green when heated, but with niter it be-\ncomes a pale rose color.\n16. A weak solution of nitrate of mercury\nbecomes black by heat.\nInks that Appear under the Infleunce of Light.\n17. Chloride of gold serves for forming char-\nacters that appear only as long as the paper is\nexposed to daylight, say for an hour at least.\n18. Write with a solution made by dissolving\none part of nitrate of silver in 1,000 parts of\ndistilled water. When submitted to daylight,\nthe writing appears of a slate color or tawny\nbrown.\nInks Appearing Through Reagents.\n19. If writing be done with a solution of\nacetate of lead in distilled water, the characters\nwill appear in black upon passing a solution of\nan alkaline sulphuret over the paper.\n20. Characters written with a very weak so-\nlution of chloride of gold will become dark\nbrown upon passing a solution of perchloride of\ntin over them.\n21. Characters written with a solution of\ngallic acid in water will become black through\na solution of sulphate of iron, and brown\nthrough the alkalies.\n22. Upon writing on paper that contains but\nlittle sizing with a very clear solution of starch,\nand submitting the dry characters to the vapor\nof iodine, or passing over them a weak solution\nof iodide of potassium, the writing becomes\nblue, and disappears under the action of a so-\nlution of hyposulphite of soda in the propor-\ntions of 1 to 1,000.\n23. Characters written with a 10$ solution of\nnitrate of protoxide of mercury become black\nwhen the paper is moistened with liquid am-\nmonia, orange red with a solution of, and gray\nthrough heat.\n24. Characters written with a weak solution\nof the soluble chloride of platinum or iridium\nbecome black when the paper is submitted to\nmercurial vapor. This ink may be used for\nmarking linen. It is indelible. Les Inventions\nNouvelles.\n25. C. Widemann communicates a new method\nof making an invisible ink to Die Natur. To\nmake the writing or the drawing appear which\nhas been made upon paper with the ink, it is\nsufficient to dip it into water. On drying the\ntraces disappear again, and reappear by each\nsucceeding immersion. The ink is made by\nintimately mixing linseed oil, 1 part water of\nammonia, 20 parts; water, 100 parts. The mix-\nture must be agitated each time before the pen\nis dipped into it, as a little of the oil may sepa-\nrate and float on top, which would, of course,\nleave an oily stain upon the paper.\n26. Write with a solution of f errocyanide of\npotassium* develop by pressing over the dry\ninvisible characters a piece of blotting paper\nmoistened with a solution of copper sulphate\nor of copperas.\n27. Write with pure dilute tincture of iron\ndevelop with a blotter moistened with strong\ntea.\n28. Writing with iodide of potash and starch\nbecomes blue by the least trace of acid vapors\nin the atmosphere, or by the presence of ozone.\nTo make it, boil starch, and add a small quan-\ntity of iodide of potassium in solution.\n29. Sulphate of copper in very dilute solution\nwill produce an invisible writing, which will\nturn light blue by vapors of ammonia.\n30. Soluble compounds of antimony will be-\ncome red by sulphide of hydrogen vapor.\n31. Soluble compounds of arsenic and of pe-\nroxide of tin will become yellow by the same\nvapor.\n32. An acid solution of chloride of iron is di-\nluted till the writing is invisible when dry. This\nwriting has the remarkable property of be-\ncoming red by sulphocyanide vapors (arising\nfrom the action of sulphuric acid on sulpho-\ncyanide of potassium in a long necked flask),\nand it disappears by ammonia, and may alter-\nnately be made to appear and disappear by\nthese two vapors.\n33. Writing executed with rice water is visi-\nsible when dry, but the characters become blue\nby the application of iodine. This ink was\nmuch employed during the Indian mutiny.\n34. Write with a solution of paraffin in benzol.\nWhen the solvent has evaporated, the paraffin\nis invisible, but becomes visible on being dusted\nwith lampblack or powdered graphite, or smok-\ning over a candle flame.\n35. To Write Black Characters with Water.\n—Mix 10 parts nutgalls, 2% parts calcined sul-\nphate of iron. Dry thoroughly, and reduce to\nfine powder. Rub this powder over the sur-\nface of the paper, and force into the pores by\npowerful pressure, brush off the loose powder.\nA pen dipped in water will write black on\npaper thus treated.\n36. To Write Blue Characters with Water.—\nMix sesquisulphate of iron and ferrocyanide\nof potassium. Prepare the paper in the same\nmanner as for writing black characters with\nwater. Write with water and the characters\nwill appear blue.\n37. To Produce Brown Writing with Water.\nMix sulphate of copper and ferrocyanide of\npotassium. Prepare the paper in the same\nmanner as before. The charaters written with\nwater will be reddish brown.\n38. There is a well known proprietary article\nsold in Paris under the name of Encre pour\nles Dames (ink for ladies). Hager, in a recent\nscientific journal, states that this consists of\nan aqueous solution of iodide of starch, and is\nspecially intended for love letters. In four\nweeks characters written with it disappear,\npreventing all abuse of letters, and doing away\nwith all documentary evidence of any kind in\nthe hands of the recipient. The signers of bills\nof exchange who use this ink are of course\nfreed from all obligations in the same length\nof time. Of course this is criminal.\n39. Vanishing Ink.— To make an ink, black\nat the time of writing, but which will disap-\npear after a short time, boil nutgalls in alco-\nhol, put Roman vitriol and sal ammoniac to\nit, and when cold dissolve a little gum in it.\nWriting done with this ink will vanish in\ntwenty-four hours.\n40. Invisible.\nLinseed oil 1 part.\nLiquor ammonia 20 parts.\nWater 100 parts.\nThe mixture is well shaken before the pen is\ndipped into it, as otherwise the little oil which\nseparates causes an oily mark on the paper.\nTo render the writing legible, the paper is\ndipped into water, the characters again dis-\nappearing when the paper dries. See 25.\nTransfer Ink.— For the manufacture of the l\nfollowing inks an iron pot and lid must be\nprocured. Then take as follows\nStone Writing Ink. Virgin wax, 4 parts;\ntallow, 3 parts soap, 13 parts shellac, 6 parts\nlampblack, 3 parts.\nTransfer Writing Ink. Virgin wax, 2 parts\nwhite soap, 1 part shellac, 1 part lampblack,\npart.\nChalks. Virgin wax, 16 parts; tallow, 2\nparts; white soap, 12 parts; lampblack, 3^\nparts.\nManipulation of Writing Ink and Chalks.—\nMelt the wax and tallow and mix with an iron","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0300.jp2"},"297":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n285\nInks.\nspoon then add the soap, which must be pre-\nviously cut into strips, and when melted apply\na light, and allow to burn until the whole is\ndecreased to the same bulk as existed before\nthe addition of the soap. The shellac is now to\nbe carefully added, bit by bit, stirring- the\nwhole time to effect perfect amalgamation.\nThe black is next to be added, and the whole\nwell mixed while in a liquid state then poured\ninto a mould, or on a slab, and cut to the re-\nquired size while warm. The same method of\nproceeding is alike applicable to the manufac-\nture of transfer writing ink, proceeding with\nthe wax only, there being no tallow.\nRetransf er Inks. Stone Retransfer Ink.\nLitho. printing ink, 2 parts; writing ink, 2\nparts thin varnish, 2 parts tallow, Yi part.\nCopperplate Transfer Ink. Litho. writing\nink, 4 parts; thin varnish, 1 part; wax, 1 part\ntallow, Y% part; soap, 1 part. Carefully melt\nthe ingredients, and when in a liquid state pour\ninto moulds, or cut to the required size.\nTerra-Cotta, Irik for Sketching on. Try\nBrunswick or Japan black. Thin with a\nlittle turpentine if necessary.\nInk, to Keep from Thickening.— Keep the ink\nfrom the air, as it not only evaporates, but\nalso oxidizes it, and renders it thick.\nTin, Ink for Writing on.—l. Nitric acid, 12^£\nparts copper, 1*4 parts add water, 12*^ parts.\nClean the tin with dry whiting Avrite with a\nquill.\n2. Mix verdigris, 1 part; sal ammoniac, 1\npart chimney black, Yz part water, 10 parts\nto be well shaken in a bottle (and labeled\npoison). To be used with a quill pen.\nTypeivriter Ribbons. Take vaseline (petro-\nlatum) of high boiling point, melt it on a water\nbath or slow fire, and incorporate by constant\nstirring as much lampblack or powdered drop\nblack as it will take up without becoming\ngranular. If the fat remains in excess the print\nis liable to have a greasy outline if the color\nis in excess the print will not be clear. Remove\nthe mixture from the fire, and while it is cool-\ning mix equal parts of petroleum, benzine and\nrectified oil of turpentine, in which dissolve\nthe fatty ink, introduced in small portions by\nconstant agitation. The volatile solvents\nshould be in such quantity that the fluid ink\nis of the consistence of fresh oil paint. One\nsecret of success lies in the proper application\nof the ink to the ribbon. Wind the ribbon on\na piece of cardboard, spread on a table several\nlayers of newspaper, then unwind the ribbon\nin such lengths as may be most convenient,\nand lay it flat on the paper. Apply the ink,\nafter agitation, by means of a soft brush, and\nrub it well into the interstices of the ribbon\nwith a tooth brush. Hardly any ink should re-\nmain visible on the surface. For colored inks\nuse Prussian blue, red lead, etc., and especially\nthe aniline colors.\nAniline black Yi oz.\nPure alcohol 15 oz.\nConcentrated glycerine 15 oz.\nDissolve the aniline black in the alcohol, and\nadd the glycerine. Ink as before.\nVanadium Ink. This is for an ink which is\npermanent and unaffected by the application\nof acids, alkalies, etc., and which renders f or-\ngeries and erasures, additions or alterations\neasy of detection and difficult to accomplish.\nTo carbon black (preferably prepared by the\naction of concentrated sulphuric or other acid\non sugar) are added a solution of gum arabic\nor other mucilage, caustic soda, oxalic acid and\nIndian ink. Vanadium in any form, Aleppo\ngalls, nutgalls, and a small quantity of an ani-\nline dye are then added, along with sufficient\nwater to make the ink flow readily. The fol-\nlowing proportions yield good results: Nut-\ngalls, 20%; Aleppo galls, 5%; carbon black, 10%;\nvanadium, 1%; Indian ink, 10%; oxalic acid, 3%;\naniline dye, 1% rain water, 50%. The whole is\nboiled, filtered and strained.\nVegetable Ink.— Experiments are being made\nto acclimatize in Europe the Coriaria thymi-\nfolia, or ink plant of New Grenada. The juice\nof this plant, locally tenned chanchi, is at first\nof somewhat a reddish color, but becomes in-\ntensely black in a few hours. This juice can\nbe used for writing without requiring any\nfurther preparations; it corrodes steel pens\nless than ordinary ink, and has, moreover, the\nadvantage of better resisting chemical agents.\nWhen the portion of America named above\nwas under Spanish dominion, all public docu-\nments were written with chanchi, which was\nnot removed from paper by sea water.\nViolet.— 1. One and one sixth oz. of so-\ncalled primula violet is dissolved in 3 qt. boil-\ning distilled water. This may be converted\ninto a copying ink by adding 4 oz. sugar, 4 oz.\nglycerine and 10 oz. of gum arabic.\nN. B.— Primula violet is known also as dahlia,\nor Hofmann s violet, of which there exist a\nnumber of different shades. Perhaps the finest\nis that known as No. 6. This coloring matter\nconsist of salts of trimethylrosaniline, and tri-\nethylrosaniline.\nOther tints may be prepared from other ani-\nline colors.\nIt is best to add to the solution of an aniline\ncolor a small percentage (3 to 5 per cent.) of al-\ncohol, and also of glycerine (1 to 4 per cent.—\nMonthly Mag. of Pharmacy.\nLOn this receipt we would remark that gum\narabic is simply a mischieveus addition which\ndeprives aniline inks of their most valuable\nproperties, i. e., their, perfect limpidity, their\nleaving no deposit on the pen, and their in-\nstantaneous drying. Cornflower blue is an-\nother name for pittacal, and is perfectly dis-\ntinct from soluble Paris blue.]\n2. Boil 8 oz. logwood in 3 pt. water till re-\nduced to V/% pt. Strain, and add 1Y oz. gum\nand ZYz oz. alum.\n3. Cudbear, 1 oz.; pearlash, 1]4 oz.; hot water,\n1 pt. Allow to stand for twelve hours; strain\nand add about 2 oz. gum. If required to keep,\nadd 1 oz. spirits of wine.\n4. Water, 2,000 parts; alum, 10J4 parts; log-\nwood, 250 parts; gum arabic, 10J4 parts; sugar,\n5J4 parts. Boil for one hour. Let the mixture\nstand two or three days, then strain through\nlinen. Improved by age.\nWhite Ink.—l. Triturate together 1 part of\nhoney and 2 parts dry ammonia alum. Dry\nthoroughly and calcine in a shallow dish over\nthe fire to whiteness. Cool, wash and rub up\nAvith enough gum water to use.\n2. Fine French zinc white, or white lead,\nrubbed up with gum water to the proper con-\nsistency.\n3. Mix pure freshly precipitated barium sul-\nphate, or flake white, with water containing\nenough gum arabic to prevent the immediate\nsettling of the substance. Starch or magnesium\ncarbonate may be used in a similar way. They\nmust be reduced to impalpable powders.\n4. White Ink for Blue Paper.— Use oxalic acid\nand water. This bleaches the paper, leaving\nwhite lines.\nTo Make New Writing Look Old. Infuse Yz\ndrm. saffron with M pt. ink. Warm it gently.\nIt will cause whatever is written with it to turn\nyellow, and give it an appearance of age.\nFaded Writing, Restoration of.— Moisten the\npaper a little with water, and brush over it a\nsolution of sulph-hydric ammonia. Since most\ninks contain iron, it is easy to understand that\nthere will be formed sulphide of iron, which is\nblack.\nYellow Ink.—l. Coarsely powdered gamboge,\n1 oz.; hot watei-, 5 oz.; dissolve, and when cold\nadd of spirit, oz.\n2. Boil Yz lb. French berries and 1 oz. alum in\n1 qt. rain water for half an hour, or longer;\nthen strain and dissolve in 1 oz. hot liquor of\ngum arabic.\n3. One part fine orpiment, well rubbed up,\nwith 4 parts thick gum water.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0301.jp2"},"298":{"fulltext":"Insecticides.\n286\nInsecticides.\nInk for Zinc Labels— 1. Take 1 drm. verdigris,\n1 drm. sal ammoniac powder, and y% drm. lamp\nblack, and mix them with 10 drm. water. This\nwill form an indelible ink for writing on zinc.\n2. Ammonium chloride, 6 parts; verdigris, 6\nparts; lampblack, 3 parts; water, 50 parts.\n3. Ink for Writing on Zinc. Dietrich gives\nthe following as a reliable formula\nParts.\nChloride of potassium 3\nSulphate of copper 6\nDistilled water 70\nDissolve, and mix with the following\nAniline blue (water soluble)\nDilute acetic acid 5\nDistilled water 20\n4. An ink composed of copper, 1 part, dis-\nsolved in 10 parts nitric acid, 10 parts water be-\ning afterward added, is useful for marking on\ntin or zinc plant labels.\n5. Permanent Ink for Writing in Relief on\nZinc. Bichloride of platinum, dry, 1 part; gum\narabic, 1 part; distilled water. 10 parts. The\nletters traced upon zinc with this solution turn\nblack immediately The black characters resist\nthe action of weak acids or of rain, and the\nliquid is thus adapted for marking signs, labels,\nor tags which are liable to exposure. To bring\nout the letters in relief, immerse the zinc tag\nin a weak acid for a few minutes. The writing\nis not attacked, while the metal is dissolved\naway.\nInsecticides.— 1. Kerosene Emulsion.— One\nof the most satisfactory formulas is as follows\nKerosene 2 gal. 67$\nCommon soap or whale oil\nsoap\nWater\ni^ajw\nHeat the solution of soap and add it boiling\nhot to the kerosene. Churn the mixture by\nmeans of a force pump and spray nozzle for\nfive or ten minutes. The emulsion, if perfect,\nforms a cream which thickens upon cooling\nand should adhere without oiliness to the sur-\nface of glass. For use against scale insects\ndilute 1 part of the emulsion with 9 parts of\nwater. For most other insects dilute 1 part of\nthe emulsion with 15 parts of water. For soft\ninsects like plant lice the dilution may be car-\nried to from 20 to 25 parts of water.\n2. The milk emulsion is produced by the\nsame methods as the above.\n3. The Resin Washes.— These insecticides act\nby contact, and also, in the case of scale in-\nsects, by forming an impervious coating which\neffectually smothers the insects treated. These\nresin washes vary in efficacy, according to the\ninsect treated. Experience has shown that the\nbest formula for the red scale (Aonidiaaurantii\nMaskell) and its yellow variety (A. citrinus\nCoquillett) is as follows\nResin 18 lb.\nCaustic soda (70$ strength) 5 lb.\nFish oil 2J^pt.»\nWater to make 100 gals.\nThe necessary ingredients are placed in a\nkettle and a sufficient quantity of cold water\nadded to cover them; they are then boiled\nuntil dissolved, being occasionally stirred in\nthe meantime, and after tiie materials are dis-\nsolved the boiling should be continued about\nan hour, and a considerable degree of heat\nshould be employed, so as to keep the prepara-\ntion in a brisk state of ebullition, cold water\nbeing added in small quantities whenever there\nare indications of the preparation boiling over.\nToo much cold water, however, should not be\nadded at one time, or the boiling process will\nbe arrested and thereby delayed, but by a little\npractice the operator will learn how much\nwater to add so as to keep the preparation\nboiling actively. Stirring the preparation is\nquite unnecessary during this stage of the\nwork. When boiled sufficiently it will assimi-\nlate perfectly with water, and should then be\ndiluted with the proper quantity of cold\nwater, adding it slowly at first and stirring\noccasionally during the process. The undi-\nluted preparation is pale yellowish in. color,\nbut by the addition of water it becomes a very\ndark brown. Before being sprayed on the\ntrees it should be strained through a fine wire\nsieve, or through a piece of Swiss muslin, and\nthis is usually accomplished when pouring the\nliquid into the spraying tank, by means of a\nstrainer placed over the opening through which\nthe preparation is introduced into the tank.\nThe preparing of this componnd will be\ngreatly accelerated if the resin and caustic\nsoda are first pulverized before being placed in\nthe boiler, but this is quite a difficult task to\nperform. Both of these substances are put up\nin large cakes for the wholesale trade, the\nresin being in wooden barrels, each barrel con-\ntaining a single cake weighing about 375 lb.,\nwhile the caustic soda is put up in iron drums\ncontaining a single cake each, weighing about\n8001b. The soda is the most difficult to dissolve,\nbut this could doubtless be obviated by first\ndissolving it in cold water and then using the\nsolution as required. This insecticide may be\napplied at any time during the growing season.\n4. A stronger wash is required for the San\nJose scale (Aspidiotus perniciosus Comstock),\nand the following formula gives the best re-\nsults\nResin 30 lb.\nCaustic soda (70^) 9 lb.\nFish oil 43^ pt.\nWater enough to make 100 gals.\nPlace all the ingredients in a kettle and cover\nwith water to a depth of 4 or 5 in., boil briskly\nfor about two hours or until the compound can\nbe perfectly dissolved with water. When this\nstage is reached the kettle should be filled up\nwith water, care being taken not to chill the\nwash by adding large quantities of cold water\nat once. It may be thus diluted to about 40\ngal., the additional water being added from\ntime to time as it is used.\nThis preparation should only be applied,\nduring winter or during the dormant period.\nApplied in the growing season it will cause the\nloss of foliage and fruit.\nIn the application of both of these washes a\nvery fine spray is not essential, as the object is\nnot simply to wet the tree but to thoroughly\ncoat it over with the compound, and this can\nbe best accomplished by the use of a rather\ncoarse spray, which can be thrown upon the\ntree with considerable force.\n5. For Subterranean Insects. Recent experi-\nments have shown the practical value of the\nresin compounds against the grape phylloxera,\nand they will also be applicable to the apple\nroot louse and other underground insects. The\ncheapest and at the same time one of the most\nsatisfactory compounds experimented with is\nthe following\nCaustic soda Ti% 5 lb.\nResin 40 lb.\nWater to make 50 gal.\nDissolve the soda over fire with 4 gal. of water,\nadd the resin and after it is dissolved and while\nboiling add water slowly to make 50 gal. of\ncompound. For use dilute in 500 gal. Excavate\nbasins about the vines 6 in. deep and about 2\nft. in diameter and apply to each vine 5 gal.\nThe results will be more satisfactory if the\ntreatment is made early in the spring, so that\nthe rain of the season will assist in disseminat-\ning the wash about the roots.\n6. The kerosene emulsion made according to\nthe formula given above is also applicable to\ncertain underground insects in cases where it\nwill not prove too expensive, as, for instance,\nthe grape phylloxera or where white grubs are\ninfesting a valuable lawn. It may then be\nused in the proportion of 1 part of the emulsion","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0302.jp2"},"299":{"fulltext":"Insecticides.\n287\nInsects.\nto 15 gal. of water, applied liberally to the soil,\nand afterward washed down at frequent inter-\nvals with large quantities of water for several\ndays. This can be done only where there is\nplenty of water at hand, but will be found of\ngreat value in special cases.\n7. In other cases bisulphide of carbon may be\nused for specific and local underground forms.\nNests of ants, for instance, may be destroyed\nby pouring 1 oz. of this substance into several\nholes, covering them with a wet blanket for\nten minutes and afterward exploding the vapor\nat the mouth of the holes with a torch. Against\nonion, cabbage and radish maggots this sub-\nstance may also be used by punching a hole\nwith a sharp stick at the base of the plant and\npouring in a teaspoon! ul of the liquid, cover-\ning afterward with earth.\n8. The Arsenites —London Purple, Paris\nGreen and White Arsenic. These poisons are\nof the greatest service against all mandibulate\ninsects, as larvae and beetles, and they furnish\nthe most satisfactory means of controlling-\nmost leaf feeders and the best wholesale remedy\nagainst the codling moth. Caution must be\nused in applying them on account of the lia-\nbility of burning or scalding the foliage. The\npoisons should be thoroughly mixed with water\nat the rate of from 1 lb. to 100-250 gal. water,\nand applied with a force pump or hand spray\nnozzle. In preparing the wash it will be best\nto first mix the poison with a small quantity of\nwater, making a thick batter, and then dilute\nthe latter and add to the reservoir or spray\ntank, mixing the whole thoroughly.\n9. When freshly mixed, either London purple\nor Paris green may be applied to apple, plum\nand other fruit trees except the peach, at the\nrate of 1 lb. to 150-200 gal., the latter amount\nbeing recommended for the plum, which is\nsomewhat more susceptible to scalding than\nthe apple. White arsenic does little if any in-\njury at the rate of 1 lb. to 50 gal. of water. As\nshown by Mr. Gillette, however, when allowed\nto remain for some time (two weeks or more)\nin water, the white arsenic acts with wonderful\nenergy, scalding, when used at the rate of 1 lb.\nto 100 gal., from 10$? to 90:2 of the foliage. The\naction of the other arsenites remains practically\nthe same, with, perhaps, a slight increase in the\ncase of London purple.\n10. With the peach these poisons, when ap-\nplied alone, even at the rate of 1 lb. to 300 or\nmore gallons of water, are injurious in their\naction, causing the loss of much of the foliage,\n11. By the addition of a little lime to the mix-\nture, London purple and Paris green may be\nsafely applied at the rate of 1 lb. to 125 to 150\ngal. of water, to the peach or the tenderest\nfoliage, or in much greater strength to strong\nfoliage, such as that of the apple or most shade\ntrees.\n12. Whenever, therefore, the application is\nmade to tender foliage or when the treating\nwith a strong mixture is desirable, lime water,\nmilky, but not heavy enough to close the\nnozzle, should be added at the rate of about 2\ngal. to 100 gal. of the poison. Pure arsenic,\nhowever, should never be used with lime, as the\nlatter greatly increases its action.\n13. With the apple, in spraying for the cod-\nling moth, at least two applications should be\nmade— the first on the falling of the blossoms,\nthe apples being about the size of peas, and the\nsecond a week or ten days later; but the poison\nshould never be applied after the fruit turns\ndown on the stem, on account of the danger of\nthe poison collecting and remaining perman-\nently in the stem cavity. —Circular IT. S. Depart.\nAgriculture.\nInsects, to Destroy.— Hot alum water de-\nstroys red and black ants, cockroaches, spiders\nand chintz bugs.\nFormula for Insect Bites,— One of the very\nbest applications for the bites of mosquitoes and\nfleas, also for other eruptions attended with in-\ntense itchings, is: Menthol in alcohol, one part\nto ten. This is very cooling and immediately\neffectual. It is also an excellent lotion for ap-\nplication to the forehead and temples in head-\nache, often at once subduing the same. Weekly\nMed. Review, See also Bites.\nInsects, to Discover.— It the leaves of the plant\nturn reddish or yellow, or if they curl up, a\nclose inspection will generally disclose that the\nplants are infested with a very small green in-\nsect, or else with the red spider, either of which\nmust be destroyed. For this purpose, scald\nsome common tobacco with water until the\nlatter is colored to a yellow, and when cold\nsprinkle the leaves of the plants with it but a\nbetter plan is to pass the stems and leaves of the\nplants between the fingers, and to then shake\nthe plant and well water the bed immediately\nafterward. The latter operation destroys a\nlarge proportion of the insects shaken from the\nplant. This latter method is the only infallible\none.\nInsects, Expelling Them.— All insects dread\npennyroyal the smell of it destroys some and\ndrives the others away. At the time that fresh\npennyroyal cannot be gathered, get oil of\npennyroyal pour some into a saucer and steep\nin it small pieces of wadding or raw cotton and\nplace them in corners, closet shelves, bureau\ndrawers, boxes, etc., and the cockroaches, ants,\nor other insects will sOon disappear. It is also\nwell to place some between the mattrasses and\naround the bed. It is also a splendid thing for\nbrushing off that terrible little insect, the seed\ntick.\nInsects, and How to Fight Them,, Cut Worms.\nWhere cut worms are troublesome in the field,\na very old and at the same time a very good\nremedy is to entrap them in holes made near\nthe plants, or hills, if in the cornfield. An old\nrake handle, tapered at the end so as to make a\nsmooth hole five or six inches deep, or more,\nwill answer very well for this purpose. In the\nmorning the worms that have taken refuge in\nthese holes may be crushed by thrusting the\nrake handle into them again, and the trap is\nset for the next night. It is always well in\nplanting to make provision for the loss of a\nstalk or two by cut worms or other causes, as\nit is easier to thin out than to replant.\nMay Beetles.— These are the perfect insects\nof the white grub, so destructive to lawns and\nsometimes to meadows. A French plan for de-\nstroying, or rather catching, the cockchafer, a\nvery similar insect, is to place in the center of\nthe orchard after sunset an old barrel, the in-\nside of which has been previously tarred. At\nthe bottom of the barrel is placed a lighted\nlamp, and the insects, circling around to get at\nthe light, strike their wings and legs against\nthe tarred sides of the barrel, and either get\nfast or are rendered so helpless that they fall\nto the bottom. Ten gallons of beetles have been\ncaptured in this way in a single night.\nSlugs.— English gardeners place handfuls of\nbran at intervals of eight or ten feet along the\nborder of garden walks. The slugs are attracted\nto the bran, and in the morning each little heap\nis found covered with them. The ground is\nthen gone over again, this time the operator\nproviding himself with a dustpan and small\nbroom and an empty bucket, and it is an easy\nmatter to sweep up the little heaps and empty\nthem, slugs and all, into the bucket. In this\nway many hundreds have been taken in a single\nwalk, and if a little salt and water be placed on\nthe bottom of the bucket the slugs coming in\ncontact with it are almost instantly destroyed.\nAnts.— When these insects are troublesome\nin the garden, fill small bottles two thirds with\nwater, and then add sweet oil to within an inch\nof the top; plunge these into the ground near the\nnest or hills to Avithin half an inch ot the rim,\nand the insects coming for a sip will get into\nthe oil and perish, asit fills the breathing pores.\nThe writer once entrapped in a pantry myriads\nof red ants in a shallow tin cover smeared with\nlard, the vessel having accidentally been left in","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0303.jp2"},"300":{"fulltext":"Insulating-.\n288\nIron.\ntheir track. Another means of entrapping\nthem, suggested to me by Professor Glover\nmany years ago, is to sprinkle sugar into a\ndampened sponge near haunts to attract the\ninsects. When they have swarmed through the\nsponge it is squeezed in hot water, and the trap\nis reset until the majority of the insects are\nkilled.\nAphis.— A remedy for plant lice upon the\nterminal shoots of rose bushes (or similar hardy\nplants), said to work like a charm, is as follows\nTake 4 oz. of quassia chips and boil for ten\nminutes in a gallon of soft water. Take out\nthe chips and add 4 oz. of soft soap, which\nshould be dissolved in it as it cools. Stir well\nbefore using, and apply with a moderate sized\npaint brush, brushing upward. Ten minutes\nafter, syringe the trees with clean water to\nwash off the dead insects and the preparation,\nwhich would otherwise disfigure the rose trees.\nScale.— A French composition for destroying\nscale insects, plant lice, etc., on fruit and other\ntrees, is as follows Boil 2 gal. barley in water,\nthen remove the grain (which may be fed to\nthe chickens), and add to the liquid quicklime\nuntil it approaches the consistency of paint.\nWhen cold, add 2 lb. of lampblack, mixing it for\na long time, then add Vy lb. flowers of sulphur\nand 1 qt. alcohol. The mixture is applied with\na paint brush, first using a stiff bristle brush to\nremove moss, etc. It not only destroys the in-\nsects, but gives the bark greater strength.—\nPrairie Farmer.\nInsects to Preserve. See Anatomical Pre-\nparations.\nInsects, Small, to Catch and Kill.— Take a wide\nmouthed bottle, fill it half full of cotton after\nsaturating the cotton with chloroform, put on\nthe cotton and in the bottle a round piece of\nwhite paper or paste board; hold the mouth of\nthe bottle over a sitting insect and within one\nminute it will lay dead and clean on the dry,\nprotecting paper.— Dr. Carl H. Horsch.\nInsulating Compounds. See Compo-\nsitions, Insulating.\nInsulating Material.— Linseed oil, 2\nparts; cotton seed oil, 1 part; heavy petro-\nleum, 2 parts light coal tar, 2 parts Venice\nturpentine, y part; spirits of turpentine, 1\npart; gutta percha, J part; sulphur, 2 parts;\nheat the oils separately to about 300° F.; cool to\n240°, and mix in the other materials, the sulphur\nlast. Heat to 300° F., for about an hour or until\nthe mixture becomes pasty, and on cooling is\nsoft and elastic.\nInsulating Paper. See Paper.\nInsulating Tapes, Cement for. See\nCements.\nInsulating, Varnishes for. See Var-\nnishes.\nInsulating Wood, 1. Wood for battery\njars, etc., is also rendered insulating, by steep-\ning it in or brushing it with melted paraffine.\n2. An insulator of 2 parts by weight of Greek\npitch and 2 of burnt plaster of Paris is used for\nelectric light work in France. The plaster is\npure gypsum highly heated and plunged in\nwater. The compound is applied hot with a\nbrush.\nIntensifiers. See Photography,\nIntoxicating Drinks.— The following\ntreatment is recommended as likely to be suc-\ncessful in attempting to wean a person from\nindulging to excess in alcoholic drink. Antici-\npate the craving by supplying food in some ac-\nceptable form— a cup of hot cocoatine being an\nexcellent substitute for, or addition to, more\nsolid food a cup of soup made from Liebig s\nextract is also useful in the same way. As an\naddition to food, and to supply the craving for\nbitter (experienced by drunken persons), an in-\nfusion of bark is said not only to afford that,\nbut to create an actual distaste for alcohol in\nany form. The infusio* of bark is made by\npouring a pt. of boiling water upon an oz. of\ncoarsely powdered bark, and allowing it to\nstand near the fire in a covered vessel for five\nor six hours dose, a wineglassf ul two or three\ntimes a day. An infusion of quassia is also use-\nful in the same way, made thus Quassia chips,\nJ4 oz.; cold water, a pt.; dose, the same as the\ninfusion of bark. A teaspoonful or two of\nMalt extract may be added to either infusion\nif liked.\nIodine Paint, Iodine Caustic— Iodide\nof potassium, oz.; iodine, 34 oz-J water (or\nbetter, proof spirit), 3 oz.; dissolve by agitation.\nUsed as a paint in cases in which it is desired to\napply iodine, in a strong form, locally also\nas a caustic for corns, warts, etc. These are\nthe proportions recommended by Soubeiran,\nwith water as the solvent. The tincture of\niodine of the pharmacopoeia is, however, more\ngenerally employed but it is only of about\none third the strength of the above. To com-\npensate for this, the greater volatility of the\nmenstruum admits of more frequent applica-\ntion of the tincture in a short space of time.\nIodine, Tincture of. See Tinctures.\nIridescent Paper. See Paper.\nIron, Amalgam. See Amalgams.\nIron, to Blacken. See Blacking Met-\nals.\nIron, to Blue. See Bluing.\nIron, Brassing.— Iron ornaments may be\ncovered with brass by removing all organic\nmatter from their surface, which would pre-\nvent adhesion, and then plunging them into\nmelted brass. A thin coating of brass is spread\nover the iron, which may be burnished or poli-\nshed. See also Electro-Metallurgy.\nIron, to Bronze. See Bronzing.\nIron Carbonate, Effervescing.— (Br.\nT. Skinner.)\nTartaric acid 24 parts.\nSodium bicarb 40 pai ts.\nIron sulphate (proto) 10 parts.\nSugar, powd 14 parts.\nCitric acid 2 parts\nMix the finely powdered dry materials as fol-\nlows: First, the sulphate of iron with the sugar\nand part of the tartaric acid secondly, the cit-\nric acid with the remainder of the tartaric acid\nand the bicarbonate. Stir the two mixtures\ntogether, and unite by sifting. Finally gran-\nulate in open metal vessel ovor a water bath.\nPharmacist.\nIron, Cement for. See Cements.\nIron, Cast, Copper Dip for.— Dissolve\n4^4 lh. sulphate of copper in water, add 3 fl. oz.\nsulphuric acid. Used in laying out work.\nIron, Wrought, to Drill.— In drilling\nwrought iron, use 1 lb. of soft soap mixed with\na gallon of boiiing water. This is a cheap\nlubricator, and insures clean cutting by the\ndrill.\nIron, to Enamel. See Enameling.\nIron, Fluxes for. See Fluxes.\nIron Protected by Gum.— Sheet iron\ncovered with gum of the euphorbiacea, com-\nmon and luxuriant in tropical climates, was\nimmersed in Chatham, England, dockyard,\nwhere everything rapidly becomes foul, and\nwhen taken out was found quite clean. The\ngum is intensely bitter and poisonous; hence\nmarine animals avoid it.\nIron, to Harden. See Hardening.\nIron, Lacqners for. See Lacquers.\nIron, Bronze Paint for. See Paints.\nIron, Cast, to Chill Very Hard.— Salt\nYz peck; oil vitriol, *4 pt-; saltpeter, J4 lb.; prus-\nsiate of potash, V% lb.; cyanide of potash, y± lb.;\nsoft water, 5 gal. Heat the iron to a cherry","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0304.jp2"},"301":{"fulltext":"Iron.\n289\nIvory.\nred, dip in the mixture. If not hard enough\nrepeat the process.\nFor Malleable Iron.— Put the articles in an\niron box, with layers of animal carbon (that\nis, pieces of horns, hoofs, skins or leather\nburned so as to be reduced to powder). Lute\nthe box with sand and clay equal parts. Place\nin the fire and keep at a light red heat, for a\nlength of time proportioned to the depth of\nsteel required. Empty the contents of the box\ninto water.\nIron 9 to Melt in a Moment.— Ingredi-\nent Roll of sulphur.\nDirections. Heat a piece of iron (a poker\nwill do) to white heat, then apply the roll of\nsulphur. The iron will immediately melt and\nrun into drops. This experiment is best per-\nformed over a wash basin of water, allowing\nthe melted iron to drop into the water.\nIron, to Improve Poor.— Dissolve in\nsoft water 1}£ parts of black oxide of manga-\nnese, 6 parts copperas, 6 parts common salt;\nboil until dry; cool, pulverize and mix with\nnice welding sand. Heat the iron and roll in\nthis mixture, work for a time, and reheat.\nThis treatment will soon free the iron from\nimpurities. Good horse nails can be made out\nof common iron by this process.\nIron, Paint for. See Paints.\nIron, to Polish. See Polishing.\nIron Pots, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nIron, to Protect.— Cast iron water pipes\nand other articles may be preserved by cover-\ning the inside and out with pitch, heated to\n300° F. and kept at this point during the dip-\nping. As the material deteriorates after a\nnumber of pipes have been dipped, fresh pitch\nis frequently added, and at least 8% of heavy\nlinseed oil put to it daily; the vessel is also\nentirely emptied of the pitch and refilled with\nfresh material, as often as is necessary to in-\nsure the perfection of the process. Each cast-\ning is kept immersed from thirty to forty-five\nminutes, or until it attains a temperature of\n300° F. After the bath is completed, the cast-\nings are removed and placed to drip in such a\nposition that the thickness of the varnish will\nbe uniform. It is essential that the coating\nbe tenacious when cold, and not brittle or dis-\nposed to scale off. The pitch or varnish is\nmade from coal tar, distilled until all the naph-\ntha is removed, the material deodorized, and\nthe pitch like wax or very thick molasses.\nIron, to Prevent Rust on. See Rust,\nIron, to Silver. See Silvering.\nIron Surfaces, Lemon Juice on.— The\nScientific American states that lemon juice\ngives an effective and elegant result when ap-\nplied to cast iron surfaces. It turns the por-\ntion of polished cast iron to which it is applied\nto a bronze black, and when touched over with\nshellac varnish will absorb a sufficient amount\nof the varnish to preserve it. To many, lemon\njuice would seem to be a weak and ineffective\nacid for metal; but every one knows how\nquickly a knife blade of steel will blacken\nwhen used to cut a lemon, and the darkening\nof polished iron by the acid is very beautiful.\nIron, to Temper. See Tempering.\nIron and Steel, to Test.— To test iron\nand steel Nitric acid will produce a black spot\non steel; the darker the spot, the harder the\nsteel. Iron, on the contrary, remains bright if\ntouched with nitric acid. Good steel in its soft\nstate has a curved fracture and a uniform gray\nluster; in its hard state, a dull, silvery uniform\nwhite. Cracks, threads or sparkling particles\ndenote bad quality. Good steel will not bear a\nwhite heat without falling to pieces, and will\ncrumble under the hammer at a bright red\nheat; while at a middling heat it may be drawn\nout under the hammer to a fine point. To test\nthe toughness, place the fragment on a block\nof cast iron; if good, it may be driven by a\nhammer into the iron; if poor, it will be\ncrushed under the blow.\nIron, to Tin. See Tinning.\nIron, to Weld. See Welding.\nIsinglass.— The best quality of American\nisinglass is made from the sounds of the hake.\nThe crude material is collected during the\nsummer and autumn, coming from Maine, New\nBrunswick, Nova Scotia, and Prince Edward s\nIsland. The conversion of the crude material\ninto the mercantile article takes place in winter.\nA low temperature is necessary in order to turn\nout by machinery the fine ribbons of isinglass,\nand ice water passes through the rolls. The\ntotal product is about 250,000 lb. Besides the\nuse of isinglass for fining beer, etc., it is em-\nployed as a dressing or glaze for straw goods in\nthe United States. Scient. Amer\nIsomerism. In chemistry, identity of com-\nposition with dissimilarity of properties. Iso-\nmeric compounds (isomerides) are such as\ncontain the same elements in the same propor-\ntions, but which differ from each other in their\nchemical properties; thus, formate of ethyl\nand acetate of methyl are isomeric, having\nprecisely the same ultimate composition,though\ndiffering in the arrangement of their elements*\nIsomorphism. In chemistry, the quality\npossessed by bodies differently composed of as-\nsuming the same crystalline form. Isomor-\nphous substances are found to be closely allied\nin their chemical nature; and the fact of two\nbodies crystallizing in the same form has often\nled to the discovery of other points of similarity\nbetween them. The alums, for instance, no\nmatter what their components, all crystallize in\noctahedra; and a crystal of potassium alum, if\ntransferred to a solution of chrome alum, will\ncontinue to increase with perfect regularity\nfrom the deposition of the latter salt.\nIvory, Artificial Ivory.— 1. Four parts\nof shellac mixed with 16 parts of ammonia.\nPlace in revolving cylinders for five hours,\nat a temperature of 99 5° F. A complete sol-\nution of the consistency of a thin sirup will be\nthe result. Add to this 30 parts zinc oxide, mix\nthoroughly and grind in a color mill. The\nammonia is driven off by heating. Press into\nmoulds.\n2. Dissolve 2 lb. of pure India rubber in 32 lb.\nof chloroform and saturate the solution Avith\npure ammoniacal gas. Then distill the chloro-\nform off at a temperature of 185° F, Mix the\nwarm residue with phosphate of lime or carb-\nonate of zinc, press it in moulds and let it cool.\nIf using carbonate of zinc, the preparation i3\nthe whitest and finest; but if using phosphate\nof lime it resembles natural ivory better, and\npartakes more of its properties, as it contains a\nsufficient amount of the solid bone substance\n(phosphate of lime), while the India rubber\nserves in place of the cartilage and gelatine\nwhich cements it together. The introduction\nof the other ingredients of the natural ivory\nhas been found to be inessential. In regard to\nthe statement that the difference cannot be\ndiscovered, this is entirely erroneous. For in-\nstance, the microscope alone, which shows in\nthin slices of the natural ivory the peculiar\nbone structure so well known to all anatomists,\nis sufficient to detect the imitations by reason\nof the total absence of all traces of organic\ngrowth.\n3. The Chronique Industrielle gives the follow-\ning description of a new process for making arti-\nficial ivory from the bones of sheep and goats\nand the waste of white skins, such as kid, deer,\netc. The bones are macerated for ten or fifteen\nhours in a solution of chloride of lime, and\nafterward washed in clean water and allowed\nto dry. Then they are put with all the scraps\nof hide, etc., into a specially constructed boiler,\ndissolved by steam so as to form a fluid mass, to\nwhich is added 2l£% of alum.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0305.jp2"},"302":{"fulltext":"Ivory.\n290\nJapanning.\nThe foam is skimmed off as it rises, uncil the\nmass is clear and transparent. Any convenient\ncoloring- matter is then added, and while the\nmass is still warm it is strained through cloth\nof appropriate coarseness and received in a\ncooler and allowed to cool until it has acquired\na certain consistency so that it can be spread\nout on the canvas without passing through it.\nIt is dried on frames in the air, and forms\nsheets of convenient thickness. It is then\nnecessary to harden it, which is accomplished\nby keeping it for eight or ten hours in an alum\nbath that has been used before.\nThe quantity of alum necessary for this oper-\nation amounts to 50$ by weight of the gdatine\nsheets. When they have acquired sufficient\nhardness, they are washed in cold water and let\ndry on frames, as at first.\nThis material works more easily and takes as\nfine a polish as real ivory.\n4. Mix 20 parts by weight of white shellac, 16\nparts of ivory dust, 9 parts of acetate of lead\nand 10 parts of camphor. Heat these ingredi-\nents, dry, powder and press.\nIvory, to Bleach. See Bleaching.\nIvory, Cement for. See Cements,\nIvory, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nIvory, to Bye. See Dyeing.\nIvory, Vegetable Dyeing of.— L. MULer\nfinds that objects of this material may be\nstained by boiling them for a long time in a\nperfectly clear solution of the desired coloring-\nmatter. Aniline red, picric acid, or potassium\ndichromate, iodine green, sumac, aniline dyes,\netc., may be used conveniently. The ivory\nmust be thoroughly clean. It may be bleached\nby immersion for several hours in a solution of\npermanganate, and then in sulphurous acid.\nIvory, Etching on. See Etching.\nIvory, Flexible.— Immerse the ivory in a\nsolution of pure phosphoric acid, sp. gr. P13,\nuntil it partially loses its opacity, then wash in\ncold soft water and dry. This renders ivory\nvery flexible, but it regains its hardness if long-\nexposed to dry air. Its pliability may, how-\never, be restored by immersion in hot water.\nIvory, Glue for. See Glues.\nIvory, to Harden.— To harden ivory\nafter it has been softened, wrap in a sheet of\nwhite paper, cover with dry, decrepitated salt,\nlet it remain for 24 hours, when it will be re-\nstored to its original hardness.\nIvory, Imitation of.— The composition\nfor making imitation ivory is as follows Pow-\nder very finely some egg shell. Make isinglass\nand brandy into a paste with the egg shell.\nColor it as desired. The mould must be oiled,\nand the paste poured in warm. When dry it is\nready for use.\nIvory, Inlaying Imitation. -A quantity\nof best plaster of Paris, dried in an oven, kept\nin a well corked bottle for use. Now, suppose\nwe want to fill in, say, lines of any pattern. Mix\nup a small quantity of the plaster of Paris with\nweak clear glue; fi l in and smooth over. When\ndry it may bo glass papered down to the level\nof the surrounding wood. If wanted colored,\nmix with the plaster of Paris any of the pow-\nder colors, such as ultramarine, amber, vermil-\nion, or yellow ocher. For cheapness you better\nuse the various colored ochers. The chief se-\ncret is to have the powders, plaster of Paris,\netc., quite dry. In polishing but little extra\ncare is required. Merely take a brush, dip it in\nthe white polish, if for light goods, and brush\ntwo or three coats over the plaster— this fills\nup the pores or grain, if to use the phrase— then\npolish in the usual manner\nIvory, Fluid for Marking.— Nitrate of\nsilver, 2 parts; nitric acid, 1 part; water 7 parts,\nmix.\nIvory, to Soften.— 1. In 3 oz. of spirits of\nniter, and 15 of water, mixed, put the ivory\nand leave for three or four days.\n2. To make Ivory Soft and Flexible.— Take a\nsolution of phosphoric acid of l*13Usp. gr. Put\nthe ivory in this solution, and let it remain\nuntil it has a transparent appearance. Take\nout, wash carefully, dry between soft linen.\nThe ivory will be soft as thick leather. It will\nbecome hard if it is exposed to the air, but be-\ncome soft again if placed in warm water.\nIvory, to Stain. See Staining.\nIvory, Substitute.— Melt together over a\ngentle fire in an iron pot Pitch, 1 part gutta\npercha, 2 parts; orange shellac, 5 parts; add to\nthis 6 parts of white lead (lead carbonate), in\nimpalpable powder, and stir until a perfectly\nhomogeneous mixture is obtained; then cast\nand turn out. Color with the aniline dyes\nmixed with dilute alcoholic solution of bleach-\ned shellac.\nIvory, to Work.— Turned work should re-\nquire very little polishing. All tools should be\nkept very sharp. In polishing the greatest care\nshould be used not to round the sharp corners\nwhich give so much beauty to ivory work.\nEmery paper is not recommended, but can be\nused on rough work. Use whiting and water,\nand with a chamois skin. Then apply a plain\nrag with a little oil if necessary. Jewelers 1\nbrushes wet with water and dipped in whiting\nare used for complicated work.\nJaeoby s Alloy. See Alloys.\nJapanning and Japans.— When finished\nwood, papier mache, composition, or materials\nare varnished in the usual manner and left to\ndry in the air the drying is in most cases im-\nperfect, and the coating more or less uneven.\nIf the surface thus varnished is heated for\nsome time to a temperature of from 250° to\n300° Fah. or higher, it is found that the whole\nof the solvent or vehicle of the gums or resins\nin the varnish is soon driven off, and the gum-\nmy residue becomes liquefied or semi-liquefied,\nin which state it adapts itself to all inequalities,\nand if the coating is thick enough, presents a\nuniform glossy surface, which it retains on\ncooling. This process of drying out and fusion\nsecures a firm contact and adhesion of the\ngums or resins to the surface of the substance\nvarnished, and greatly increases the density of\nthe coating, which enables it to resis t wear and\nretain its gloss longer.\nThis process of hardening and finishing var-\nnished or lacquered work by the aid of heat,\nconstitutes the chief feature of the japanner s\nart.\nIn practice the work to be japanned is first\nthoroughly cleansed and dried. If of wood,\ncomposition, or other porous material, it is\ngiven, while warm, several coats of wood filler,\nor whiting mixed up with a rather thin glue\nsize, and is, when this is hardened, rubbed down\nsmooth with pumice stone. It is then ready\nfor the japan grounds. Metals as a rule re-\nquire no special preparation, receiving the\ngrounds directly on the clean dry surface.\nIn japanning, wood and similar substances\nrequire a much lower degree of heat and usu-\nally a longer exposure in the oven than metals,\nand again a higher temperature may be ad-\nvantageously employed when the japan is dark\nthan when light colored grounds are used; so\nthat a definite knowledge of just how much\nheat can be safely applied*and how long an ex-\nposure is required with different substances\nand different grounds can only be acquired by\npractical experience. Large japanners seldom\nmake their own varnishes, as they can procure\nthem more cheaply from the varnish maker.\nThe japanner s oven is usuaily a room or\nlarge box constructed of sheet metal, and\nheated by stove drums or flues, so that the tem-\nperature which is indicated by a thermometer\nor pyrometer hung up inside, or with its stem\npassing through the side wall midway between","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0306.jp2"},"303":{"fulltext":"Japanning\n291\nJapanning.\nthe top and bottom of the chamber— can. be\nreadily regulated by dampers. The ovens are\nalso provided with a chimney to carry off the\nvapors derived from the drying- varnish, a small\ndoor through which the work can be entered\nand removed and wire shelves and hooks for\nits support in the chamber. The ovens must be\nkept perfectly free from dust, smoke, and\nmoisture.\nA good cheap priming varnish for work to be\njapanned consists of\nShellac, pale 2 oz.\nRosin, pale ...2oz.\nRectified spirit 1 pt.\nTwo or three coats of this is put on the work\nin a warm dry room. A good black ground is\nprepai-ed by grinding fine ivory black with a\nsufficient quantity of alcoholic sheDac varnish\non a stone slab with a muller until a perfectly\nsmooth black varnish is obtained. If other\ncolors are required, the clear varnish is mixed\nand ground with the proper quantity of suit-\nable pigments in a similar manner; for red,\nvermilion or Indian red; green, chrome green\nor Prussian blue and chrome yellow; blue, Prus-\nsian blue, ultramarine or indigo; yellow, chrome\nyellow, etc. But black is the hue commonly re-\nquired. The following are good common black\ngrounds\n1. Asphaltum 1 lb.\nBalsam of capivi 1 lb.\nOil of turpentine q. s.\nThe asphaltum is melted over a fire, and the\nbalsam, previously heated, is mixed in with it.\nThe mixture is then removed from the fire and\nmixed with the turpentine.\n2. Moisten good lampblack with oil of tur-\npentine and grind it very fine with a muller on\na stone plate. Then add a sufficient quantity\nof ordinary copal varnish and rub well to-\ngether.\n3. Asphaltum 3 oz.\nBoiled oil 4 qt.\nBurnt umber 8 oz.\nOil of turpentine q. s.\nMe]t the asphaltum, stir in the oil, previously\nheated, then the umber, and when cooling thin\n■down with the oil of turpentine.\n4. An extra fine black is prepared from\nAmber 12 oz.\nAsphaltum, purified. 2 oz.\nBoiled oil J^pt.\nResin 2 oz.\nOil of turpentine 16 oz.\nFuse the gum and resin and asphaltum, add\nthe hot oil, stir well together, and when cool-\ning add the turpentine.\nA white ground is prepared from copal var-\nnish and zinc white or starch.\nFrom one to six or more coats of varnish are\napplied to work in japanning, each coat being\nhardened in the oven before the next is put on.\nThe last coat in colored work is usually of clear\nvarnish, without coloring matters, and is in\nfine work sometimes finished with rotten stone\nand chamois. For ordinary work the gloss de-\nveloped in the oven under favorable conditions\nis sufficient,\nJapan Finishing.— The finishing part of jap-\nanning lies in laying on and polishing the outer\ncoats of varnish, which is necessary in all\npainted or simply ground colored japan work.\nWhen brightness and clearness are wanted, the\nwhite kind of varnish is necessary for seed lac\nvarnish, which is the hardest and most tena-\ncious, imparts a yellow tinge. A mixed var-\nnish, we believe, is the best for this purpose,\nthat is, for combining hardness and purity.\nTake then 3 oz. of seed lac, picked very care-\nfully from all sticks and dirt, and washing it\nwell with cold water, stirring it up, pouring it\noff, and continuing the process until the water\nruns off perfectly pure. Dry it and then re-\nduce it to powder, and put it with a pt. of alco-\nhol into a bottle, of which it must occupy only\ntwo thirds of its space. This mixture must oe\nshaken well together and the bottle kept at a\ngentle heat (being corked) until the lac be dis-\nsolved. When this is the case the clear must be\npoured off and the remainder strained through\na cloth, and all the clear, strained and poured,\nmust be kept in a well stopped bottle. The\nmanner of using this seed lac varnish is the\nsame as that before described, and a fine polish-\ning varnish is made by mixing this with pure\nwhite varnish. The pieces of work to be var-\nnished for finishing should be placed near a\nstove or in a warm, dry room, and one coat\nshould be perfectly dry before the other is ap-\nplied. The varnish is applied by proper\nbrushes, beginning at the middle, passing the\nstroke to one end and with the other stroke\nfrom the middle to the other end. Great skill\nis displayed in laying on these coats of varnish.\nIf possible the brush should never cross or\ntwice pass over in giving one coat. When\none coat is dry another must be laid over it,\nand so on successively for a number of coats,\nso that the coating should be sufficiently thick\nto stand fully all the polishing, so as not to bare\nthe surface of the colored work. When a suffi-\ncient number of coats are thus laid on the\nwork is fit to be polished, which, in common\ncases, is commenced with a rag dipped in finely\npowdered rotten stone, and toward the end of\nthe rubbing a little oil should be used along\nwith the powder, and when the work appears\nfine and glossy a little oil should be used alone\nto clean off the powder and give the work a\nstill brighter hue. In very fine work French\nwhiting should be used, which should be washed\nin water to remove any sand that might be in\nit. Pumice stone ground to a very fine powder\nis used for the first part of the polishing, and\nthe finishing done with whiting. It is always\nbest to dry the varnish of all Japan work by\nheat. For wood work heat must be sparingly\nused, but for metals the varnish should be\ndried in an oven, also for papier mache and lea-\nther. The metal will stand the greatest heat,\nand care must be taken not to darken by too\nhigh a temperature. When gold size is used in\ngilding for japan work, where it is desired not\nto have the gold shine or appear burnished, the\ngold size should be used with a little of the\nspirits of turpentine and a little oil, but when\na considerable degree of luster is wanted with-\nout burnishing and the preparation necessary\nfor it, a little of the size along with oil alone\nshould be used.\nBlack Japan Grounds.— I. Mix shellac var-\nnish with either ivory black or lampblack; but\nthe former is preferable. These may be always\nlaid on with the shellac varnish, and have their\nupper or polishing coats of common seed lac\nvarnish.\n2. A common black japan may be made by\npainting a piece of work with drying oil and\nputting the work into a stove, not too hot, but\nof such a degree as will change the oil black\nwithout burning it, gradually raising the heat\nand keeping it up a long time. This requires\nno polishing.\n3. Asphaltum, }4 lb.; melt, then add hot balsam\nof capivi, lib., and when mixed, thin with hot\noil of turpentine.\n4. Grind lampblack very smooth on a marble\nslab with a muller with turpentine, and then\nadd copal varnish to the proper consistency.\nJapan Black.— 1. Asphaltum, 3 oz.; boiled oil,\n4 qt.; burnt umber, 8 oz. Mix by heat, and\nwhen cooling thin with turpentine.\n2. Amber, 12 oz.; asphaltum, 2 oz.; fuse by\nheat, add boiled oil, \\i, pt.; resin, 2 oz.; when\ncooling add 16 oz. oil of turpentine. Both are\nused to varnish metals.\nJapan Black, for Leather,— Burnt umber,\n4 oz.; true asphaltum, 2 oz.; boiled oil, 2 qt.\nDissolve the asphaltum by heat in a littleof the\noil, add the burnt umbec ground in oil, and the","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0307.jp2"},"304":{"fulltext":"Japanning.\nremainder of the oil; mix, cool and thin with\nturpentine. Flexible.\nBlue Grounds.— Blue japan grounds may be\nformed of bright Prussian blue. The color may\nbe mixed with shellac varnish and brought to a\npolishing state by five or six coats of seed lac\nvarnish. The varnish, however, is apt to give\na greenish tint to the blue, as the varnish has a\nyellowish tinge, and blue and yellow form a\ngreen. Whenever a light blue is desired, the\npurest varnish must always be used.\nGreen Grounds.— A good green may be made\nby mixing Prussian blue along with the chro-\nmate of lead, or with turmeric, or orpiment\n(sulphuret of arsenic) or ocher, only the two\nshould be ground together and dissolved\nin alcohol and applied as a ground, then\ncoated with four or five coats of shellac var-\nnish in the manner already described. A very\nbright green is made by laying on a ground of\nDutch metal or leaf of gold, and then coating\nit over with distilled verdigris dissolved in alco-\nhol, then the varnishes on the top. This is a\nsplendid green, brilliant and glowing.\nOrange Colored Grounds.— Orange grounds\nmay be made of yellow mixed with vermillion or\ncarmine, just as a bright or rather inferior color\nis wanted. The yellow should always be in quan-\ntity to make a good full color, and the red\nadded in proportion to the depth of shade. If\nthere is not a full good body of yellow, the color\nwill look watery or bare, as it is technically\ntermed.\nJapan, Purple Grounds. This is made by a\nmixture of lake and Prussian blue or carmine,\nor for an inferior color vermilion, and treated\nas the foregoing. When the ground is laid on\nand perfectly dried, a fine coat of pure boiled\nnut oil then laid on and perfectly dried is a\ngood method to have a japan not liable to\ncrack. But a better plan is to use this oil in the\nvarnish given the first coat, after the ground\nis laid on, and which should contain considera-\nble of pure turpentine. In every case where\noil is used for any purpose for varnish, it is\nall the better if turpentine is mixed with it.\nTurpentine enables oils to mix with either al-\ncohol or water. Alkalies have this property\nalso.\nBed Japan Ground.— The base of this japan\nground must be made up with madder lake,\nground with oil of turpentine; this forms the\nfirst ground; when perfectly dry, a second coat\nmust be applied, composed of lake and white\ncopal varnish; and the last with a coat com-\nposed of a mixture of copal and turpentine\nvarnish mixed up with lake. Vermilion or\ncarmine can also be used for red japan instead\nof lake.\nWhite Ground.— To form a hard, perfect\nwhite ground is no easy matter, as the sub-\nstances which are generally used to make the\njapan hard have a tendency, by a number of\ncoats, to look or become dull in brightness.\nOne white ground consists of the following\ncomposition White flake or lead washed\nover and ground up with J of its weight of\nstarch, then dried and mixed with the finest\ngum, ground up in parts of 1 oz. gum to 3^ oz.\nof rectified turpentine, mixed and ground thor-\noughly together. This is to be finely laid on\nthe article to be japanned, dried, and then var-\nnished with 5 or 6 coats of the following Two\noz. of the finest seed lac to 3 oz. of gum anime,\nreduced to a fine powder and dissolved in a qt.\nof alcohol. The lac must be carefully picked.\nFor a softer varnish than this, a little turpen-\ntine should be added, and less of the gum. A\nvery good varnish and not brittle, may be\nmade by dissolving gum anima in nut oil, boil-\ning it gently as the gum is added, and giving\nthe oil as much gum as it will take up. The\nground of white varinsh may of itself be made\nof this varnish, by giving 2 or 3 coats of it, but\nwhen used it should be diluted with pure tur-\npentine. Although this varnish is not brittle,\nit is liable to be indented with strokes, and it\n292 Japanning.\nwill not bear to be polished, but if well laid on\nit will not need to be laid on afterward it also\ntakes some time to dry. Heat applied to all\noils, however, darkens their color, and oil var-\nnishes for white grow very yellow if not ex-\nposed to a full clear light.\nYellow Japan Grounds.— 1. King s yellow may\nbe used, and the effect will be heightened by\ndissolving powdered turmeric root in the spirits\nof wine, of which the upper or polishing coat is\nmade, which spirits of wine must be strained\nfrom off the dregs before the seed lac is added\nto it to form the varnish.\n2. If turmeric be dissolved in the spirit of wine\nand strained through a cloth and then mixed\nwith pure seed lac varnish, it makes a good\nyellow japan. Saffron will answer for the same\npurpose in the same way, but the brightest yel-\nlow ground is made by primary coat of pure\nchrome yellow, and coated successively with\nthe varnish.\n3. Dutch pink is used for a kind of cheap\nyellow japan ground. If a little dragon s blood\nbe added to the varnish for yellow japan, a most\nbeautiful and rich salmon colored varnish is.\nthe result, and by these two mixtures all the\nshades of flesh colored japans are produced.\nAniline, Colors for.— Many of the clear var-\nnishes and oils may be colored directly with\nsome of the aniline dyes by mixing the coloring\nmaterial with the solvent used. These dyes do\nnot hold their colors very well at high temper-\natures.\nBlack.— 1. Burnt umber, 8 oz.; true asphal turn,\n3 or4oz.; boiled linseed oil, 1 gal.; grind the-\number with a liitle of the oil, add it to the as-\nphaltum, previously dissolved in a small quan-\ntity of the oil by heat; mix, add the remainder\nof the oil, boil, cool and thin with a sufficient\nquantity of oil of turpentine. Flexible.\n2. Shellac, 1 oz.; wood naphtha, 4 oz.; lamp-\nblack to color; dissolve. Inflexible. Both are\nused for leather.\nCarriage Japan.— Forty gal. raw linseed oil,\n40 lb. litharge, 20 lb. red lead, 10 lb. black oxide\nof manganese, 2 lb. white gum shellac. Set the\noil over the Are and bring to the boiling point;\nadd by degrees litharge and red lead alterna-\ntively and slowly; add the gum, and when this\nis melted put in the manganese, and keep the\nwhole in rapid motion from the time the oil is\n200° Fah. until the making is finished. When\nthe mixture is cool enough to bear the finger\nin a moment add from 20 to 30 gal. spirits of\nturpentine.\nImitation of Japanning.— The peculiar glossy\nsurface on the so-called japan trays can only be\ngiven by practice, but a near imitation may be\neffected as follows Mix ivory black with melted\nsize, apply the mixture quite hot to the box, or\nany other wooden article that it may be desired\nto treat in this manner; when dry, sand paper\nthe box, then give another coat of black; when\nthis second coat is dry, bring to smoothness\nwith sand paper, at the same time taking care\nnot to remove the stain, so that the light wood\nbelow is exposed. Now procure 1 lb. of black\njapan and 1 gill of turpentine; mix enough of\nthe black japan for present use with turpen-\ntine, of which only sufficient should be used to\nmake the japan fluid enough to run from the\nbrush. A fine haired paint brush should be\nemployed. If properly done one coat will be\nsufficient. The box will look nearly equal to the\njapan goods. Dry the varnished box in a warm\nroom free from dust.\nTo Japan Old Tea Trays.— First clean them\nthoroughly with soap arid water and a little\nrotten stone; then dry them by wiping and ex-\nposure at the fire. Now get some good copal\nvarnish, mix with it some bronze powder, and\napply with a brush to the denuded parts. After\nwhich set the tea tray in an oven at a\nheat of from 212° to 300° F. until the varnish\nis dry. Two coats will make it equal to new.\nJapan Flow for Tin.— Spirits of turpentine,\n3 qts.; balsam of tolu, 3 oz.; linseed oil, M pt.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0308.jp2"},"305":{"fulltext":"Javclle.\n293\nJewels.\nacetate of lead, 3 oz.; balsam of fir, 3 oz.; gum\nsandarac, 1)4 lb. Put all these materials, except\nthe turpentine, in a suitable vessel, place over\na slow fire at first, then increase the heat until\nthey are melted. When a little cool, stir in the\nturpentine, and strain. This japan is trans-\nparent, but may be colored if desired.\n2. Melt 50 lb. Naples asphaltum and 8 lb. dark\ngum anime boil for about two hours in 12 gal.\nlinseed oil: then melt 12 lb. dark gum amber,\nand boil it with 2 gal. linseed oil add this to\nthe other, and add driers. Boil for about 2\nhours, or until the mass, when cooled, may be\nrolled into little pellets. Withdraw the heat,\nand thin down with 30 gal. turpentine. During\nthe boiling the mass must be constantly stirred\nto prevent boiling over.\n3. Japan for Tin Lantern.— The following are\nthe proportions for black japan: Asphaltum,\n1% oz.; boiled linseed oil, 4 pt.; burnt umber, 4\n•oz. Heat till well mixed, and when cool add\nturpentine till of a proper consistence.\nJapan, The Tortoise Shell. Tortoise shell\njapan is extremely pretty, and comparatively\n•easy to manipulate. The work is first coated\nwith a japan made by boiling 2 pt. linseed oil,\nto which J4 lb. umber has been added, till it be-\ncomes thickened the mixture is then strained\nand further boiled till it becomes Of a pitchy\nconsistency. This is mixed with turpentine to\na workable consistency, and then applied. On\na thoroughly dry coating of this japan lay a\nquantity of vermilion spots to represent the\nclear portions of the shell. The vermilion\njapan is made by adding vermilion to shellac\nvarnish; it should be laid on thinly and dried.\nThe whole surface is then finally coated with a\nthin layer of the above described brown japan,\nstill further diluted with turpentine. A long\ncourse of stoving will be necessary to thor-\noughly harden the japanning.\nJapan, Transparent. Prep. Oil of turpen-\ntine, 8 oz.: oil of lavender, 6 oz.; camphor 1\ndrm.; bruised copal, 2 oz. Dissolve. Used for\njapanning tin quick-drying copal varnish is\nusually substituted.\nJapan Varnishes. See Varnishes.\nJavelle Water. See Waters.\nJet, Cement for. See Cements.\nJet, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nJet Working.— 1. Small chisels of ordinary\nshape are used in turning jet on a lathe. The\naction is more of a scrape than a distinct cut.\nA knife the size of a penknife, with the point\nbeveled off and then set like a chisel, is used in\ncarving jet. Jet is first polished on a revolving\nwooden Avheel with rotten stone and water, and\nthen finished off on a board covered with stout\nleather often porpoise hide impregnated\nwith rouge or lampblack mixed with a very\nsmall quantity of oil.\n2. The tools used for tuiming jet are beveled\nfrom both sides like a turner s soft wood chisel,\nonly they are held with the edge horizontal\nand scrape rather than cut. Their edges are\nvery thin and keen. A small gouge, also bev-\neled from both sides, is used for roughing out.\nFor polishing use first fine emery cloth, then\ncharcoal dust and soft soap on a flannel. Finish\nwith the same only adding more soft soap.\nSometimes rotten stone on the hand or flannel\nis used as a finish. No heat is required.\nJewels, Artificial. The base used in\nmaking artificial gems is strass, obtained by\nmelting together 6 drm. carbonate of soda, 2\ndrm. burnt borax, 1 drm. saltpeter, 3 drm.\nminium and l^j oz. purest white sand. To im-\nitate in color the following minerals, add to\nthe strass the ingredients named in connection\nwith each gem Sapphire, 10 grn. carbonate of\ncobalt; opal, 10 grn. oxide of cobalt, 15 grn.\noxide of manganese, and from 20 to 30 grn.\nprotoxide of iron; amethyst, 4 to 5 grn. carbon-\nate or peroxide of manganese; gold topaz, 30\ngrn. oxide of uranium; emerald, 20 grn. pro-\ntoxide of iron and 10 grn. carbonate of copper.\nJewels. Imitation.— The following are\nsome of the very latest recipes for making\nimitation stones. The coloring substances\nare the following oxides Oold, for\npurple (purpura cassia); silver, for yellowish\ngreen; copper, for bright green; iron, for pale\nred; cobalt, for blue; tin, for white; manganese,\nin small quantity to make the glass devoid of\ncolor; in a larger, to give it an amethyst color;\nin great quantity, to make it black and\nopaque; antimony, for reddish hyacinth color.\nTo prepare the mass for the body proceed as\nfollows: Pure flint or rock crystal is heated\nwhite, cooled in water, pulverized and sifted\nwith a silk sieve, thereupon exposed to the\naction of muriatic acid for several hours, wash-\ned, dried and again sifted. Of this substance\nfive different bases are prepared\nFor the first base— 1^ parts of the flint or\nrock crystal powder; 2% parts white lead in\nscales, part saltpeter, $4 part borax, J^ part\nwhite arsenic.\nFor the second base— 1 part prepared flint, 2^£\nparts white lead, 34 part cream of tartar, J4\npart calcined borax.\nFor the third base-1 part prepared rock crys-\ntal, 2 parts red lead, y part saltpeter, J^ part\ncream of tartar; pulverize the mixture, melt it\nthree times, and after every melting pour into\ncold water. This for the three preceding bases.\nFor the fourth base— 1 part prepared rock\ncrystal, 3 parts calcined borax, 1 part cream of\ntartar; melt, pour the mass into lukewarm\nwater, add an even amount of red lead (minium)\nand repeat the melting and cooling twice.\nFor the fifth base— Take 1 part prepared rock\ncrystal and 3 parts cream of tartar, melt in a\ncrucible, dissolve the mass in warm water and\nadd nitric acid as long as a boiling takes place;\nit is then carefully washed, dried, and 1% parts\nwhite lead are added. To 1]4 parts of this mix-\nture add ^jj parts calcined borax, next melt and\npour into cold water. This makes, when part\nsaltpeter is added, a handsome crystal glass,\nwhich, without further addition, makes the\nartificial diamond called Strass, from its in-\nventor.\nThe following are recipes for imitations of\nprecious stones.\nFor Yellow Diamond.— 16 oz. of fourth base;\n24 grn. horn silver; 10 grn. antimony.\nSapphire.— 25 oz. of fifth base; 2 drm., 46 grn.\ncobalt.\nOriental Ruby.—l oz. of fifth base, and a mix-\nture of 2 drm., 48 grn. purple of gold, and the\nsame quantity of sulphuret of antimony and\nfusible manganese, and 2 oz. of rock crystal; or,\n20 oz. of the flint base, y% oz. fusible manganese,\nand 2 oz. rock crystal.\nBalay Ruby.—IQ oz. of fifth base, and the pre-\nceding coloring substance, lessened by one-\nfourth; or, 20 oz. flint base, same coloring mass,\nbut less manganese by one- fourth.\nOriental Topaz.— 24 oz. of first or third base;\n5 drm. black antimony.\nBrazilian Topaz.— 24 oz. of second or third\nbase; 1 oz., 24 grn. black antimony; 8 grn. pur-\npura cassia (purple of gold).\nSaxonian Topaz.— 24 oz. of first or third base\n6 drm. black antimony.\nA methyst.— 24 oz. of fifth base; 4 drm. man-\nganese; 4 grn. purple of gold.\nEmerald.— 15 oz. of any one base; 1 drm. blue\ncarbonate of copper; 6 grn. antimony; or, 1 oz.\nof second base; 20 oz. black antimony; 4 grn.\ncobalt.\nBeryl.— 2i oz. of third base 96 grn. black an-\ntimony; 4 grn. cobalt.\nCommon Opal.— I oz. of third base; 2 grn.\nloadstone; 20 grn. of some absorbing earth.\nFor the imitation of pearls, thin balls of glass\nare used, which by an addition of a small quan-\ntity of potash and oxide of lead, receive a\nbluish glittering sheen, and tie inner sides of","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0309.jp2"},"306":{"fulltext":"Joints.\n294\nKnots.\nwhich are covered with the scales of a small\nriver fish (Cyprinus alburnus). To make these\nscales pliable and adhesive, they are steeped for\nsome time in spirits of ammonia in which a\nsmall amount of isinglass has been dissolved.\nMessrs. Savary Mosbach exhibit some which,\nbeing solid, are in all respects equal to the\nRoman.\nGems, Artificial.— P. Weiskopf gives in the\nDiamant the following formulae for the frit or\nmass used in Bohemia for making imitations of\nsome of the precious stones\nImitation Agates.— 10 kilos quartz, 17 kilos\nred lead, 32 kilos potash, 2 2 kilos borax, and 0*1\nkilo arsenic. The quantity of chloride of gold\nadded is equal to that obtained from 0*4 of a\nducat.\nAgate Glass.— 10 parts of broken glass is\nmelted, and to it are added 015 part suboxide\nof copper, the same quantity of the oxides of\nchromium and of manganese, 0*02 part each of\noxide of cobalt and nitrate of silver, 0 01 part\noxide of uranium, 0*4 part red argols, 0 3 part\nbone meal. Each oxide is added alone, and at\nintervals of ten minutes. After heating the\nmixture for an hour, 3 or 0*4 part of fine soot\nis put in.\nRed Marble.— SO parts of sand, 40 parts of\npotash, 10 parts of lime, 2 parts of table salt, 1\npart of saltpeter, and 01 part of arsenic. The\nmixture is melted, and then 25 parts of subox-\nide of copper and 1 part of saltpeter mixed in.\nJoints, Cement for. See Cements,\nJulep, Mint. —This is made precisely in the\nsame manner as sherry cobbler, except that you\nuse brandy instead of wine, and you add to\nyour fruits three or four sprigs of fresh spear-\nmint. Decorate the top with sprigs of mint in-\nstead of flowers.\nJute.— A variety of bast fiber now often\nmixed with or substituted for cotton.\nJute, to Bleach. See Bleaching.\nJute, to Dye. See Dyeing.\nKalsomine. Prepared kalsomine can be\nreadily purchased at any large paint store, but\nsome of our readers may wish to prepare their\nown kalsomine. The following rules are given\nfor the purpose of enabling them to do so\nSoak 1 lb. of white glue overnight, then dis-\nsolve it in boiling water and add 20 lb. of\nParis white, diluting with water until the mix-\nture is of the consistency of rich milk. To\nthis any tint can be given that is desired.\niilac— Add to the kalsomine 2 parts of Prus-\nsian blue and 1 part of vermilion, stirring the\nmixture thoroughly and taking care to avoid\ntoo high a color.\nBrown.— Burnt umber.\nGray.— Raw umber, with a trifling amount of\nlampblack.\nRose.— Three parts of vermilion and 1 part of\nred lead, added in very small quantities until a\ndelicate shade is produced.\nLavender. Make a light blue and tint it\nslightly with vermilion.\nStraw.— Chrome yellow, with a touch of\nSpanish brown.\nBuff.— Two parts of spruce, or Indian yellow,\nand one part of burnt sienna.\nBlue.— A small quantity of Prussian blue will\ngive a soft azure tint. Dark blue is never de-\nsirable.\nDelicate tints in the foregoing varieties of\ncolors are always agreeable and tasteful, and\nso great care must be taken that they are not\ntoo vivid. The tints will always appear\nbrighter than in the kalsomine pot, and this\nfact must be kept in mind when adding the\ncoloring powders.\nKalydor.— A name given to several nos-\ntrums extensively advertised in Europe and\nAmerica, and pretending to possess extraordin-\nary power of beautifying the skin.\nRowland s Kalydor.— This is said to resemble\nGowland s lotion, but it is got up in a more\npleasing and showy style.\nKamptulicon.— A mixture of cork and\ncaoutchouc. The cork is ground fine and\nmixed with caoutchouc by a somewhat com-\nplicated process. It is used for a floor cover-\ning and also for cushions of presses, etc.\nKaolin.— Term rather loosely applied to\nthe clays used in making porcelains. Ordinary\nkaolin is the result of the decomposition of\naluminous minerals.\nKelp.— The ash obtained by incinerating\nthe sea weeds on the British coasts. It is-\nweaker in alkali than soda ash and even than\nbarilla, and is employed by alkali manufac-\nturers to mix off strong soda ash.\nKerosene, to Deodorize.— By agitation\nfor several days with powdered chloride of\ncalcium, the disagreeable odor of the oil may\nbe removed, but the oil cannot be completely\ndeodorized.\nKerosene, to Remove. See Cleansing.\nKeys, to Fit.— When it is not convenient\nto take a lock apart to fit a new key, the key\nblank should be smoked over a candle inserted\nin the keyhole and pressed firmly against the\nopposing wards of the lock. The indentations\nin the smoked portion made by the wards will\nshow where to file.\nKid Gloves, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nKid Gloves, to Dye. See Dyeing.\nKieselguhr.— Kieselguhr is an infusorial\nearth which is principally used in the manu-\nfacture of dynamite. It is a white powder,,\nand, as it consists of the skeletons of diatoms*\nis of a siliceous character and well adapted for\nmaking polishing soap. Deposits of it are\nfound in Aberdeenshire.\nKilling Agents. See Microscopy.\nKindlings.— 1. Save the corn cobs for\nkindlings, especially if wood is not going to be\nplentiful next winter. To prepare them, melt\ntogether 60 parts resin and 40 parts tar. Dip in\nthe cobs and dry on sheet metal heated to\nabout the temperature of boiling water.\n2. Dip the wood in melted resin. The fol-\nlowing composition is sometimes used 60 parts\nmelted resin and 40 parts tar, in. which the\nwood is dipped for a moment. Or, take 1 qt.\nof tar and 3 lb. of resin, melt them, then cool;\nmix as much sawdust with a little charcoal\nadded as can be worked in. Spread out on a\nboard and when cold break up into lumps the\nsize of a hickory nut, and you will have enough\nkindling to last a good while. See also Fire\nKindlers.\nKingston s Metal. See Alloys.\nKirch wasser.— A spirituous liquor dis-\ntilled in Germany from bruised cherries. See\nLiquors.\nKnifeboard.— A common knifeboard cov-\nered with thick buff leather, on which is put\nemery, 1 part; crocus root, 3 parts, in very fine\npowder; mixed into a thick paste, with a small\namount of lard in sweet oil, and spread on the\nleather to the thickness of a quarter, gives a\nsuperior edge and polish to knives, and will\nnot wear the knives so much as the common\nmethod of brick dust on a board.\nKnots, to Bore through.— To bore a\nhole easily through a hemlock or other knot,\nwet your auger in turpentine.\nKnots.— The knots represented on the fol-\nlowing page of engravings are as follows\n1. Simple overhand\nknot.\n2. Slip-knot seized.\n3. Single bow-knot.\n4. Square or ruf-knot.\n5. Square bow-knot.\n6. Weaver^ knot.\n10,\nGerman or figure-\nof-8 knot.\nTwo half hitches,\nor artificer s knot.\nD o u ble artifice r s\nknot.\nSimple galley-knot.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0310.jp2"},"307":{"fulltext":"Knots.\n295\nKoumiss,\n11. Capstan, or pro-\nlonged knot.\n13. Bowline-knot.\n13. Rolling-hitch.\n14. Clove-hitch.\n15. Blackwall-hitch.\n16. Timber-hitch.\n17. Bowline on a bight.\n18. Running bowline.\n19. Catspaw.\n20. Doubled running-\nknot.\n21. Double knot.\n22. Sixfold knot.\n23. Boat-knot.\n24. Lark s head.\n25. Lark s head.\n26. Simple boat-knot.\n27. Loop-knot.\n28. Double Flemish\nknot.\n29. Running-knot\nchecked.\n30. Crossed running-\nknot.\n31. Lashing-knot.\n32. Rosette.\n33. Chain-knot.\n34. Double chain-knot.\nKnots.\n35. Double running-\nknot, with check-\nknot.\n36. Double twist-knot.\n37. Builder s knot.\n38. Double Flemish\nknot.\n39. English knot.\n40. Shortening-knot.\n41. Shortening-knot.\n42. Sheep-shank.\n43. Dog-shank.\n44. Mooring-knot.\n45. Mooring-knot.\n46. Mooring-knot.\n47. Pigtail worked on\nthe end of a rope.\n48. Shroud-knot.\n49. A bend or knot\nused by sailors in\nmaking fast to a\nspar or a bucket\nhandle before cast-\ning overboard; it\nwill not run. Also\nused by horsemen\nfor a loop around\nthe jaw of a colt\nin breaking; the\nrunning end, after passing over the\nhead of the animal and through the\nloop, will not jam therein.\n50. A granny s knot.\n51. A weaver s knot.\nThe principle of a knot is, that no two\nparts which would move in the same di-\nrection if the rope were to slip, should\nlie alongside of and touching each other.\nFrom Scientific American Reference\nHandbook.\nKola Wine. See Wines.\nKoumiss.— 1. Fill a qt. champagne\nbottle up to the neck with pure milk\nadd two tablespoonfuls of white sugar,\nafter dissolving the same in alittle water\nover a Lot fire add also a quarter of a\ntwo cent cake of compressed yeast. Then\ntie the cork on the bottle securely, and\nshake the mixture well; place it in a room\nof the temperature of 50° to 95° Fahren-\nheit for six hours, and finally in the ice\nbox overnight. Drink in such quantities\nas the stomach may require. Be sure\nthat the milk is pure; that the bottle is\nsound; that the yeast is fresh; to open\nthe mixture in the morning with great\ncare, on account of its effervescent prop-\nerties; not to drink it at all if there is\nany curdle or thickening part resembling\ncheese, as this indicates that the ferment-\nation has been prolonged beyond the\nproper time.\n2. To a qt. of new milk add a sixth\npart of water, and to this mixture add,\nas a ferment, an eighth part of the sourest\nbuttermilk that can be got. In future\npreparations, a similar quantity of old\nkoumiss will better answer the purpose\nof a ferment. Cover the vessel with a\ncloth, and allow to stand in a place of\nmoderate warmth for twenty-four hours,\nwhen a thick substance will be found col-\nlected at the top. Stir well until this\nsubstance is thoroughly mixed with the\nliquid portion beneath, and allow to\nstand for twenty -four hours more, when,\nhaving tilled a bottle two-thirds full, and\nagain thoroughly mixed by shaking, the\npreparation, now called koumiss, may\nbe used at once, or the bottle tightly\ncorked and kept in a cool place for fu-\nture use. Always shake the bottle well\nbefore using.\n3. Dilute the milk with one-sixth part\nof hot water, and, while still tepid, add\none-eighth of very sour (but otherwise\ngood) buttermilk. Put it into a wide jug,\ncover with a clean cloth, and let stand in a\nwarmish place (about 75° Far.) for twenty-\nfour hours; stir up well, and leave for\nanother twenty-four hours. Then beat thor-\noughly together, and pour from jug to jug\ntill perfectly smooth and creamy. It is now\nstill koumiss, and may be drunk at once.\nTo make it sparkling, which is generally\npreferred, put it into champagne or soda-\nwater bottles; do not quite fill them, well secure\nthe corks, and lay down in a cool cellar. It will\nthen keep for six or eight weeks, though it be-\ncomes increasingly acid. To mature some for\ndrinking quickly, it is as well to keep a bottle\nor two to start with in some warmer place, and\nfrom time to time shake vigorously. With this\ntreatment it should, in about three days, be-\ncome sufficiently effervescent to spurt freely\nthrough a champagne tap, which must be used\nfor drawing it off as required. Later on, when\nvery frothy and acid, it is more pleasant to\ndrink if a little sweetened water (or milk and\nwater) is first put into the glass. Shake the\nbottle, and hold it inverted well into the\ntumbler before turning the tap. Having made\none lot of koumiss as above, you can use some\nof that instead of buttermilk as a ferment for\na second lot, and so on five or six times in sue-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0311.jp2"},"308":{"fulltext":"Labels.\n296\nLacquering.\ncession; after which it will be found advisable\nto begin again as at first. Mare s milk is the\nbest for koumiss; then ass s milk. Cow s milk\nmay be made more like them by adding a little\nsugar of milk (or even loaf sugar) with the hot\nwater before fermenting. But perhaps the\nchief drawback to cow s milk is that the cream\nseparates permanently, whereas that of mare s\nmilk will remix. Hence use partially skimmed\nmilk, for if there is much cream it only forms\nlittle lumps of butter, which are apt to clog the\ntap, or are left behind in the bottle.\nKraft s Alloy. See Alloys.\nKustitien s Metal. See Alloys.\nKyanizing. See Wood, Preservation\nof.\nLabels for Bottles. See Bottles.\nLabels, Cements for. See Cements.\nLabels, Enamel for. See Enameling.\nLabels, Garden, to Preserve. See\nWood, Preservation of.\nLabels, Paper, for Glass Bottles.-These\nwill last as long as glass if they are covered\nwith egg albumen, and then exposed to the ac-\ntion of steam until the albumen coagulates. If\nthey are now dried in a temperature of 212° F.,\nthe albumen will become hard and clear, and\noils or acids will not affect them.\nLabels, Glue for. See Glues.\nLabels, Insoluble.— Lay a coat of strained\nwhite of egg over the label, and immediately\nput the vessel in the upper portion of a com-\nmon steam pan, or otherwise expose it to a\ngentle heat till the albumen coagulates and\nturns opaque, and then take it out and dry it\nin an oven, at a heat of about212° F.; the opaque\nwhite film will then become hard and trans-\nparent, and resist the action of oils, spirits and\nwater. (Chem., hi., 158.) The labels on bottles\ncontaining acids or alkaline solutions, should be\neither etched upon the glass by fluoric acid or\nbe written with incorrodible ink.\nLabels, Paste for. See Pastes.\nLabels, Plant.— Common lead pencil on\nzinc labels are almost indelible and become\nmore distinct with age.— Chloride of platinum\nsolution, and better, sulphate of copper, may\nbe used, and are perhaps somewhat more dis-\ntinct.\nLabels, Wooden, to Preserve.— 1. Thor-\noughly soak labels in iron sulphate, then lay\nthem, after they are dry, in lime water.\n2. The following method of preserving wood-\nen labels that are to be used on trees or in ex-\nposed places is recommended: Thoroughly soak\nthe pieces of wood in a strong solution of sul-\nphate of iron; then lay them, after they are\ndry, in lime water. This causes the formation\nof sulphate of lime, a very insoluble salt, in\nthe wood. The rapid destruction of the labels\nby the weather is thus prevented. Bast, mats,\ntwine and other substances used in tying or\ncovering up trees and plants, when treated in\nthe same manner, are similarly preserved. At\na recent meeting of a horticultural society in\nBerlin wooden labels, thus treated, were shown,\nwhich had been constantly exposed to the\nweather during two years without being af-\nfected thereby.\nLabels, Zinc, Garden.— For zinc plates,\nuse with quill pens only. 1. Dissolve muriate of\nammonia and crude sal ammoniac in strong\nvinegar. 2. For large labels, dip your pen in\nconcentrated sulphuric acid, and write on the\nzinc, previously greased; a sharp point of cop-\nper wire is better than the pen; quench in\nwater; wasn thoroughly from fluid when your\nwriting is plain enough. 3. Dissolve about\nseventy-five cents worth of chloride of pla-\ntinum in hot distilled water, adding a very few\ndrops of aqua regia. The liquid should be of a\npale amber color; enough for hundreds of labels.\nLabarraque s Solution.—\nChloride of lime 2 oz.\nCarbonate of soda. 4 oz.\nWater. 40 oz.\nMix the chloride of lime with 30 oz. of the\nwater, and dissolve the carbonate of soda in\nthe remainder. Mix, boil and filter.\nLac, to Bleacb. See Bleaching.\nLaces, to Wash. See Cleansing.\nLace, Gold, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nLacto-Pepsin.— Milk sugar, 60 oz.; pepsin,\n12 oz.; pancreatine, 9 oz.; vegetable ptyalin\n(diastase), 6 drm.; lactic acid, 7Mj drm.; hydro-\nchloric acid, 7^i drm. Used for dyspepsia.\nLactose Tonic, for Dispensing.— To 1\ngal. of sirup add from 2 to 3 oz. of sugar of\nmilk. Flavor to taste.\nLacquering.— The following receipts for\nlacquers are arranged as nearly as possible in\nalphabetical order:\nLacquering Brass.— 1. Be sure there is no oil\nor grease on the brass do not touch the work\nwith the fingers, hold it with spring tongs or a\ntaper stick in some of the holes.\n2. Always handle with a piece of clean cloth.\n3. Heat the work so hot that the brush will\nsmoke when applied, but avoid overheating, as\nit burns the lacquer.\n4. It is well to fasten a small wire across the\nlacquer cup, from side to side, to scrape any\nsuperfluous lacquer. The brush should have\nthe ends of the hairs all exactly even. If not\nso, trim the ends with sharp scissors.\n5. Scrape the brush as dry as possible on the\nwire, making a flat, smooth point at the same\ntime.\n6. Use the very tip of the brush to lacquer\nwith, and carry a steady hand.\n7. Put on at least two coats. It is well (to\nmake a very durable coat) to blaze off after each\ncoat with a spirit lamp or Bunsen burner,\ntaking care not to overheat and burn the\nlacquer.\n8. If the lacquer is too thick, it will look\ngummy on the work. If too thin, it will show\nprismatic colors. In the first case, add a little\nalcohol; in the latter, set the cup on the stove\nand evaporate some.\n9. A good deal of cheap work, like lamp burn-\ners, is dipped. Use a bath of nitric and sul-\nphuric acids, equal parts, dip work, hung on\nwire, into acid for a moment, remove, rinse in\ncold water thoroughly, dip in hot water, re-\nmove, put in alcohol, rinse around, then dip\nmomentarily in lacquer, shaking vigorously on\nremoving to throw off extra lacquer and lay on\na warm metal plate till dry, let cool, and it is\ndone.\n10. Avoid handling lacquered work until cold.\nCleaning and Belacquering Brass Chandeliers.\n—You, of course, know everything depends\nupon having the brassworkfree from grease or\ndirt. Unless you are very careful on this point\nyou will never get the work a good color. Per-\nhaps the better way for you to accomplish what\nyou want will be to boil the brass parts in a\nstrong solution of pear lash until apparently\nclean, then place them into a vessel containing\na solution of aquafortis, about one of acid to\nthree or four of water let them remain in this\nsolution for an hour or so, afterward washing\nthem well, and scouring, if necessary, with\nsand until every part is clean; then make up a\nsolution of equal parts of nitric and sulphuric\nacids, and add to it about one-third part extra\nof nitric acid, having zinc dissolved in it in the\nproportion of about one zinc to three acid. When\nboiling dip the articles in until they have the\ncolor you require; twenty to thirty seconds\nwill be ample. Then swill well in plenty of\nwater, and place all the parts in fine sawdust\nuntil dry. When dry you can rub up with soft\nrags and a leather, and when just too hot to hold,\nlacquer the whole of the parts that will be at","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0312.jp2"},"309":{"fulltext":"Lacquering.\n397\nLacquering.\nall exposed. When going through the process\nabove, take care not to handle any of the\nbrasswork and above all, do all the work out\nof doors, or in a place with a large chimney, to\ntake away any fumes of nitrous acid, which are\nmost deleterious to the lungs.— W. J. Lancaster,\nin English Mechanic.\nTo Relacquer Brass.— The English Mechanic\ngives the following receipt Strong sulphuric\nacid, 2 parts water, lpart red fuming nitrous\nacid, 1 part. These must be mixed in the open\nair, as the gas evolved on mixing the nitrous\nacid with the vitriol and water is of a suffocat-\ning character; this will pass off in the course of\nan hour or so, during which time the mixture\nmay be occasionally stirred with a glass rod.\nThe bright, gilded effect produced on the brass\nby this mixture is so good that any one trying\nit will not return to the use of nitric acid. The\nsubsequent washing, drying and lacquering\ncannot be done too soon after the dipping, as\nthe articles tarnish rapidly if kept unlacquered.\nLacquering Instruments. Clean the brass\nwork of instruments by boiling in caustic soda\nwater if convenient, otherwise soak in alcohol\nand wipe. For aluminum lacquer, dissolve\nbleached shellac in the best, or alcohol.\nHeat all work to about 212°F. before lacquering\nuse a broad camel s hair brush, work quickly\nand place the work in a hot oven or over a\nspirit lamp for a few minutes, to glaze the sur-\nface of the lacquer. To deaden the gloss on in-\nstrument work: Clean perfectly free from\ngrease with soda water, rinse, and dip in a bath\nof nitric acid, 1 part; water, 4 parts; for from\ntwo to five seconds; rinse off the acid in hot\nwater, dip again i n hot soda water and in hot\nclean water to leave the surface perfectly free\nfrom acid. Dry in sawdust. Color lacquers\nAvith dragon s blood and saffron to the required\ndepth.\nLacquering Instrument.— Have your lacquer\nin jar, with wire across top; this is to squeeze\non all surplus from brush; this must be rubbed\nclean now and then to keep from clogging. Do\nnot make brasswork hot, but warm till the\nsteam or sweat disappears. The rich color is\ngot by putting on successive coats and warm-\ning between each. Do not try to do this in one\noperation, and so lay it on too thick. Hold\nbrush between finger and thumb of right hand,\nand apply lacquer by light feather strokes.\nSuitable holders should be made for round\nwork, terminals, etc., whereby they can be\ntwisted round between finger and thumb of\nleft hand. If you make work too hot, lacquer\nwill turn brown and have to be washed off; this\ncan be done with spirit, or work left in strong\nsolution of soda overnight. Brushes should be\nof soft camel hair, flat, and trimmed on a\nboard with sharp knife to a thin, straight edge.\nA good brush is half the battle. If these get\nhard, press on hot iron plate, and then dip in\nlacquer, when they will be in nice working\norder.\nMaterials for Lacquering.\nThe lacquer shellac 4- alcohol.\nOther substances f Turpentine, spirits of.\nJ varnish.\nA 1 Mastic varnish.\nI Canada balsam.\nB Pyro-acetic ether.\nf Dragon s blood.\nC =red -j Annatto.\nL Red sanders.\nf Turmeric.\nI Gamboge.\nD yellow Saffron.\nSandarac.\nt Cape aloes.\nLacquer, Directions for Making.— Mix the in-\ngredients and let the vessel containing them\nstand in the sun, or in a place slightly warmed,\nthree or four days, shaking it frequently till\nthe gum is dissolved, after which let it settle\nfrom twenty-four to forty-eight hours, when\nthe clear liquid may be poured off for use.\nPulverized glass is sometimes used in making\nlacquer, to carry down the impurities.\nAmber and Elemi Lacquer.— Amber, 4 parts;\nelemi, 1 part; Venice turpentine, 1 part; oil of\nturpentine, 12 parts. This makes a very beau-\ntiful and lasting lacquer.\nLacquer, Bookbinders.— 1. Dissolve on a water\nbath 180 parts of shellac, 1 part of camphor, 1\npart loaf sugar in 1,500 parts of alcohol of 66$.\nFilter through blotting paper, distill off }4 the\nalcohol, add while warm a very little oil of\ncinnamon or oil of cloves.\n2. Parisian Bookbinders Lacquer.— Shellac,\n180 parts; camphor, 1 part; loaf sugar, 1 part;\nalcohol of 66$, 1,500 parts. Filter the solution.\nDistill off Y% the alcohol. Add a trace of oil of\nalmonds.\nLacquers for Brass.— 1. Seed lac, dragon s\nblood, annatto, and gamboge, each 4 oz.; saf-\nfron, 1 oz.; alcohol, 10 pt.\n2. Turmeric, 1 lb.; annatto, 2 oz.; shellac and\ngnm juniper, each 12 oz.; alcohol, 12 oz.\n3. Seed lac, 6 oz.; dragon s blood, 40 grn.; am-\nber and copal triturated in a mortar, 2 oz.; ex-\ntract of red sanders, drm.; Oriental saffron,\n36 grn.; coarsely powdered glass, 4 oz.; absolute\nalcohol, 40 oz. Very fine.\n4. Seed lac, 3 oz.; amber and gamboge, each 2\noz.; extract of red sanders, drm.; dragon s\nbiood, 1 drm.; saffron, drm.; alcohol, 2 pt.\n4 oz.\n5. Turmeric, 6 drm.; saffron, 15 grn.; hot alco-\nhol, 1 pt.; draw the tincture and add: Gamboge,\n6 drm.; gum sandarac and gum elemi, each 2 oz.;\ndragon s blood and seed lac, each 1 oz.\n6. Alcohol, 1 pt.; turmeric, 1 oz.; annatto and\nsaffron, 2 drm. each. Agitate frequently for a\nweek, filter into a clean bottle, and add seed\nlac, 3 oz. Let stand, with occasional agitation,\nfor about 2 weeks.\n7. Gamboge, }4 oz.; aloes, 1% oz.; shellac, fine,\n8 oz.; alcohol, 1 gal. Sci. Am.\n8. Put 3 oz. seed lac, 2 drm. dragon s blood,\nand 1 oz. turmeric powder into 1 pt. alcohol.\nLet the whole remain for 14 days; but during\nthat time agitate the bottle once a day at least.\nWhen properly combined, strain the liquid\nthrough muslin, when it is ready for use.\n9. To 5 oz. alcohol add gamboge enough to\ngive a bright yellow color, and 3 oz. seed lac in\nfine powder. Put in sand bath till dissolved.\n10. Ground turmeric, as sold, 1 oz.; saffron and\nSpanish annatto, each 2 drm.; highly rectified\nalcohol, 1 pt. Place them in a moderate heat,\nshaking occasionally for several days; then\nadd 3 oz. good seed lac, roughly powdered;\nshake occasionally until the lac is dissolved. If\na deep orange lacquer is required, increase the\nquantity of annatto; if a bright yellow, de-\ncrease it. Lay it on with a brush (warm), like\nyou would paint. One or more coats, if nec-\nessary. Avoid using too much seed lac, as it\nhas a tendency to prevent the lacquer lying\nevenly.\n11. Pale gold lacquer is best for microscope;\nbe sure and get the best quality and see that\nthe things are sufficiently hot before put-\nting on the lacquer; heat after lacquering, and\nit will stand well. Damp will affect the best\nlacquering.\n12. 3 is the best for optical work. If it comes\noff, either the metal was not clean when ap-\nplied or else it was put on cold. The metal\nshould be heated to just such a point that it\ndries as fast as the brush passes over it. Work\nis often spoiled in lacquering. Circular things\nmay be done in the lathe, going quite slow, and\nworking a good body by going over several\ntimes.\n13. In preparing brass for the colorless or\nnearly colorless lacquer, the goods, after being\nannealed, pickled, scoured and washed, are\neither dipped for an instant in pure commer-\ncial nitric acid, washed in clear water, and\ndried in sawdust, or immersed in a mixture of\n1 part of nitric acid with 4 parts of water, till a","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0313.jp2"},"310":{"fulltext":"Lacquering.\nLacquering.\nwhite curd covers the surface, at which\nmoment the goods are withdrawn, washed in\nclear water and dried in sawdust. In the first\ncase,the brass will be bright; in the latter, a dead\nflat, which is usually relieved by burnishing the\nprominent parts. Then the goods are dipped\nfor an instant in commercial nitric acid, and\nwell washed in water containing argol, to pre-\nserve the color till lacquered, and dried in\nwarm sawdust. So prepared, the goods are\nheated on a plate and varnished. The varnish\nused is one of spirit, consisting, in its simple\nform, of 1 oz. shellac dissolved in 1 pt. alcohol.\nTo this simple varnish are added such coloring\nsubstances as red sanders, dragon s blood and\nannatto, for imparting richness of color. To\nlower the tone of color, turmeric, gamboge,\nsaffron, Cape aloes, and sandarac are used.\nThe first group reddens, the second yellows the\nvarnish; while a mixture of the two gives a\npleasing orange, and various tints can be got\nby suitable mixtures.\ndragon s blood and turmeric to produce the de-\nsired color.\n2. For ornaments bronzed with gold colored\nbronze, paint the articles, of cast iron, with\nwhite paint, which is white lead and oil; when\nhard dry, varnish with copal varnish; when\nsticky dry, dust the bronze powder over it; and\nwhen hard dry, brush off all the superfluous\nbronze with a earners hair brush. To protect\nit from the dust and from soiling, coat the\nbronze surface, when thoroughly dry, with\nspirit copal varnish.\nChinese Lacquer Work. Chinese lacquer\nwork is done over tin foil, and consists of a\nmixture of 2 parts of copal, and 1 part of shel-\nlac, melted together. When fluid, there are\nadded 2 parts of boiled linseed oil; and, after\nthe vessel containing this mixture has been\ntaken from the fire, there are gradually added\n10 parts of oil of turpentine. If color is re-\nquired, gum guttae (or gamboge), dissolved in\noil of turpentine, yields yellow; and dragon s\nTable oi\nLacquers\no\n02\noz.\n4\n1\n1\n1\n1\n2\n2\n5\n3\n3\n1\n3\n3\n3\n6\ndr.\nt\na\no3\nw\ncS\nw\no3\nS\no3\no\ndr.\n•r\nSolutions.\nReds.\nYellows.\no\nO\no\npt.\n1\n1\n1\n1\n2\n2\n1\n3\n1\n4\n1\n1\n1\n1\n,d\nH\n.2\no\ni\nO\nH\nPh\nOZ.\nd\nft\nu\nd\nH\n«H\no\nft\nOQ\ndr.\n■d\n03\n8\nu\no3\nd\n•|H\nPI\nft\nu\n2\nOZ.\nd\na*\no3\nPh\nft\na\n02\nP t.\no\no\nw\nd\no\nbe\n03\nFh\nP\ndr.\np\n+3\nc3\nd\nd\ndr.\nw\nu\n■a\na\na\ngr.\n6\na\n3\nH\ndr.\na\n03\ndr.\nd\nm\n03\n02\ndr.\nft\n03\nO\ndr.\n03\n03\nd\n03\n02\ndr.\nNo.\n1\nStrong simple.\n2\nSimple pale.\n3\n1\na\n16\n2\n5\n6\ni\n.3.\n4\n*8\n8\nFine pale.\n4\n1\n32\nFine pale.\n5\n6\n1\n1\n1\n8\nFine pale.\nPale gold.\n7\nPale yellow.\n8\n30\nPale yellow— (Ross s.)\n9\n10\n1\n1\n2\n4\n16\n64\n20\n16\n1\n10\n2\n2\n14\n5\nFull yellow,\nGold.\n11\n12\np\nGold-\nGold.\n13\n30\n1\n4\n4\n40\n8\n8\n20\nDeep gold.\n14\n32\n24\n12\nDeep gold.\n15\n16\n27\nDeep gold.\nRed.\n17\n1\n15\n1\nRed.\n18\n30\n30\n6\n60\n4\nl\n10\nTin lacquer.\n19\nT\n1\nGreen, for bronze.\nThe union of red with yellow produces a fine orange color, dr. drachm gr. grain.\nLacquer, for Dipped Brass.— Alcohol, proof\nspecific gravity not less than ninety-five one-\nhundredth s, 2 gal.; seed lac, 1 lb.; gum copal,\n1 oz.; English saffron, 1 oz.; annatto, 1 oz.\nLacquer, Gold Colored, for Brass not Dip-\nped.— Alcohol, 4 gal.; turmeric, 3 lb.; gamboge,\n3oz.; gum sandarac, 71b.; shellac, 1)4 lb.; tur-\npentine varnish, 1 pt.\nLacquer, for Bronzed Brass.— To 1 pt. of the\nabove lacquer, add gamboge, 1 oz.; and after\nmixing it, add an equal quantity of the first\nlacquer.\nLacquer, Gold Colored for Dipped Brass.—\nAlcohol, 36 oz.; seed lac, 6 oz.; amber, 2 oz.; gum\ngutta, 2 oz.; red sandal wood, 24 grn.; dragon s\nblood, 60 grn.; Oriental saffron, 36 grn.; pul-\nverized glass, 4 oz.\nBronze Lacquers.— 1. To make a bronze lac-\nquer, dissolve lb. shellac and J^ lb. sandarac\nin 3 qt. alcohol, and add enough extract of\nblood, dissolved in the same liquid, yields\nred.\nColorless Lacquer.— For a colorless lacquer dis-\nsolve bleached shellac in pure alcohol, settle\nand decant. Make the lacquer very thin. The\nusual lacquer for brass is made with ordinary\nshellac and alcohol made very thin, settled and\ndecanted.\n2. Mastic, 5 parts amber, 5 parts sandarac,\n10 parts; shellac, 10 part£; alcohol, 100 parts.\nColor for Lacquer.— Alcohol 1 pt.; annatto 2 oz.\nCombmakers 1 Lacquer.— Flemi and mastic, 1\npart of each; shellac, 5 parts; strong alcohol,\n20 parts.\nCopper Plates, Lacquer for.— Camphor and\nmastic, 6 parts of each; sandarac and shellac\n(bleached), 15 parts of each, strong alcohol, 200\nto 250 parts.\nLacquer for Copper.— Mastic, 8 parts: cam-\nphor, 6 parts; sandarac, 15 parts; shellac\n(bleached), 15 parts; alcohol, 40 parts.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0314.jp2"},"311":{"fulltext":"Lacquering.\n299\nLacquering.\nLacquer of Drawings.— Dammar, 45 parts,\ndissolved in 270 parts of acetone; mix 60 parts\nof this solution with 45 parts of thickly fluid\ncollodion.\nLacquer, Elastic— Thirty parts of lime slaked\nwith 40 parts of water. Add while the lime is\nwarm, 100 parts melted unvulcanized rubber.\nThe lacquer is in form of a paste when cold.\nApply it warm.\nFloors, Lacquer for. Rosin, 2 parts; red shel-\nlac, 4 parts; Venice turpentine, 1 part; strong\nalcohol, 20 parts.\nGlossy Lacquer.— This is a popular and very*\nuseful lacquer: amber, 1 part; copal, 2 parts;\nseed lac, 3 parts; mastic, 3 parts sandarac, 3\nparts; shellac, 5 parts; Venice turpentine, 2\nparts; strong- alcohol, 50 parts.\nGold Lacquers. 1. Pale lac in grains, gamboge,\ndragon s blood, and annatto, each 12Hj oz.; saf-\nfron, 334 oz. Each gum is dissolved separately\nin 5 pt. alcohol, and the annatto and saffron\nare separately infused in a like quantity of al-\ncohol. The ingredients are mixed to form any\nparticular tint desired. Turmeric (ground), 1\nlb.; alcohol, 2 gal.; macerate for one week,\nstrain by expression, and add gamboge, iy± oz.;\npale shellac, M lb.; gum sandarac, 3J^ lb.\nStrain, and add turpentine varnish, 1 qt. Other\nlacquers are prepared in a similar way from\nalcohol and shellac, a solution of the coloring\ningredients, as dragon s blood, gamboge etc.,\nbeing kept on hand, and added to produce any\nrequierd tint.\n2. Two parts seed lac, 4 parts sandarac, 4\nparts elemi, 40 parts alcohol. Alcoholic solu-\ntion of gamboge and dragon s blood, or fuch-\nsin, picric acid, Martin s yellow, and coralline,\nare separately prepared, and added to the above\nin quantities ascertained by trial to impart the\ndesired color. To remove the marks left by\nthe brush, and to impart luster, the varnish,\nafter drying, is polished. This is effected by\nfirst rubbing with powdered pumice and water,\nand next with an oiled rag and tripoli, until\nthe desired polish is produced; the surface is\nafterward dried with a soft linen cloth; any\ngreasiness is removed by means of powdered\nstarch, and the process is finished by rubbing\nwith the hand. Great care must be taken that\nthe surface to which varnish is applied be free\nfrom grease or smoke, which prevents all oil\nvarnish from drying.\n3. Turmeric, 1 drm.; gamboge, 1 drm.; oil of\nturpentine, 2 pt.; shellac, 5 oz.; gum sandarac,\n5oz.; dragon s blood, 7 drm.; thin mastic var-\nnish, 8 oz. Digest with occasional agitation for\nfourteen days in a warm place, then set aside\nto fine, and pour off the clear.\n4. Dissolve gum lac in 90$ alcohol.\n5. One lb. ground turmeric, 1% oz. ground\ngamboge, 3 lb. ground gum sandarac, 1 lb.\nground shellac (bleached), 2 gal. alcohol, 3 pt.\nturpentine varnish. Put the whole in a suitable\nvessel, cork ciose, and agitate until dissolved.\n6. One gal. methylated spirits of wine, 10 oz.\nseedlac, bruised, and y% oz. red sanders; dissolve\nand strain.\n7. A gold lac, remarkable for its great hard-\nness and beautiful color, on being analyzed by\nDr. R. Kayser, at Nuremberg, gave as its constit-\nuents picric acid and boracic acid. Thereupon a\nclear shellac solution was mixed with picric\nacid and about y%% crystallized boracic acid, each\nbeing previously dissolved in alcohol, and the\nresulting lac possessed all the advantages of\nthe former one.\nGreen Lacquer.— Turmeric, 18 oz.; shellac, 15\noz.; gum sandarac, 1 oz. gum, elemi, 3 oz.;\ngamboge, 3 oz.; methylated spirits, 8 gal.; ex-\npose to gentle heat. After straining, add 1%\ngal. spirit to the sediment, and treat as before.\nHarness Lacquer.— Dissolve 8 parts shellac, 20\nparts sandarac, and 10 parts mastic in 1,000\nparts alcohol.\nHigh Colored Lacquer.— 2 qt. spirits of wine,\n2J4 oz. shellac, 2 oz. gum sandarac, ]4 oz. gum\nelemi; mix and keep gently warmed for two or\nthree days; strain, color with dragon s bleod to\ntaste, and thin with 1 qt. 90$ alcohol.\nIron, Lacquer for.—l. Asphaltum, 10 parts:\nresin, 3 parts; lampblack, 1 part; petroleum, 25\nparts.\n2. Twelve parts amber, 12 parts turpentine, 2\nparts resin, 2 parts asphaltum, 6 parts drying\noil.\n3. Three lb. asphaltum, lb. shellac, 1 gal.\nturpentine.\nLacquer for Bright Iron Work.— Litharge, 434\nparts; boiled linseed oil, 64J4 parts; white lead\nin oil, 9 parts; pulverized resin, 21 parts. Add\nthe litharge to the oil, and let it simmer for\nabout three hours over a moderate fire; strain,\nand add the resin and white lead. Let it remain\nat a gentle heat until the resin is dissolved.\nLinseed Oil and Caoutchouc Lacquer.— Six lb.\nof caoutchouc is swelled in 3 lb. ether and ren-\ndered fluid by heating; 3 lb. linseed oil and 3 lb.\noil of turpentine are then added these oils\nmust be warm when added.\nMatt Lacquer. This is sometimes called mat-\ntolein. Dissolve 30 parts of sandarac and 7\nparts of mastic in 320 parts of ether, and add\n100 to 200 parts benzine. The more added the\ncoarser will be the grain.\nSheet Metal, Lacquer for.— Asphaltum, 5 parts;\ncolophony, 3 parts; oil of turpentine varnish\n(see varnishes), 10 parts; oil of turpentine, 14\nparts.\nMetallic Surfaces, Lacquering. Following are\nmiscellaneous recipes for lacquering metallic\nsurfaces of all kinds\nFor gold: 1 gal. alcohol, y lb. turmeric; mace-\nrate for a week, then filter and add 2 oz. gam-\nboge, 6 oz. shellac, 1% lb. gum sandarac; dis-\nsolve in warm bath and add 1 qt. common tur-\npentine varnish. For red lacquer use m lb.\nannatto instead of the turmeric and 8 oz. drag-\non s blood instead of the gamboge.\n2. Pale: Alcohol, 8 oz.; turmeric, 4 drm.;\ndragon s blood, 4 scr. red sanders, 1 scr.; hay\nsaffron, 2 scr.; shellac, 1 oz.; gum sandarac, 2\ndrm.; gum mastic, 2 drm.; Canada balsam, 2\ndrm.; dissolve and add 1J4 drm. of spirits of\nturpentine.\n3. The following is an excellent lacquer for\nbrass: Seed lac, 12 oz.; copal, 4 oz.; dragon s\nblood, 80 grn.; extract of red sanders wood, 50\ngrn.; saffron, 70 grn.; pounded glass, y% lb.;\nalcohol, 2 qt. This is very durable.\n4. Pale: One gal. methylated alcohol, 5 oz.\nshellac, 4 oz. gum sandarac, and 1 oz. gum\nelemi; mix in a tin flask and expose to a gentle\nheat for a day or two; then strain off and add\ny^ gal. spirit to the sediment and treat as be-\nfore.\n5. Pale gold One gal. methylated alcohol,\n10 oz. seed lac bruised, and y% oz. red sanders;\ndissolve and strain.\n6. A paste is made of finely pulverized quartz,\ncarbonate of potash (or oxide of lead) and\nwater, according to the color required. A\nthin coat of this is applied with a brush to the\nobject, which is then placed in a muffle and\nheated to 1,495° F. (811° C). The articles emerge\ncovered with a sort of polished glass which re-\nsists blows, and which does not split nor scale\noff, while it serves perfectly to protect the\nmetal against oxidation.\n7. Petroleum essence, 1 lb.; boiled linseed oil,\nJ4 lb.; to be mixed cold. Metallic plates pre-\npared for lithography, etc., are brushed over\nwith this varnish (applied cold); when dried by\nheating it has a golden yellow tint.— Bui. Soc.\nChim.\n8. Green Varnish for Metals.— Finely pulver-\nized gum sandarac or mastic (the latter, how-\never, is too expensive for some uses), is dis-\nsolved in strong potash lye until it will dissolve\nno more. The solution is diluted with water,\nand precipitated with a solution of a copper\nsalt, either sulphate or acetate. This green\nprecipitate is washed, dried and dissolved in oil\nof turpentine, producing a line green varnislx","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0315.jp2"},"312":{"fulltext":"Lacquering,\n300\nLacquering.\nwhich does not change under the effect of light,\nand will be especially useful for ornamental\niron work. Industrie Blatter.\n9. Green Transparent Varnish.— Grind a small\nquantity of Chinese blue with double the quan-\ntity of finely powdered chromate of potash (it\nrequires most elaborate grinding); add a suffi-\ncient quantity of copal varnish thinned with\nturpentine. The tone may be altered by more\nor less of one or the other ingredients.\n10. Green Bronze Liquid. One qt. strong vine-\ngar, J^ oz. mineral green, J*£ oz. raw umber, y%\noz. sal ammoniac, oz. gum arabic, 2 oz. French\nberries, )4, o z copperas; dissolve the whole in a\npipkin over a gentle fire, allow to cool and then\nfilter.\n11. Green Lacquer.— Mix 5 oz. shellac, 6 oz.\ntnrmeric, 4 oz. gum sandarac and 1 oz. each\ngum elemi and gum gamboge in 1 gal. methy-\nlated spirits; expose to gentle heat, strain, add\ngal. spirit to the sediment and treat as be-\nfore.\n12. Gold Colored Lacquer for Brass Watch\nCases, etc.— 6 oz seed lac, 2 oz. amber, 2 oz. gam-\nboge, 24 grn. extract of red sanders wood in\nwater, 60 grn. dragon s blood, 36 grn. oriental\nsaffron, 4 oz. powdered glass, 36 oz. pure alco-\nhol. The seed lac, amber, gamboge and dragon s\nblood must be pounded very fine on porphyry\nor clean marble and mixed with the pounded\nglass. Over this mixture is poured the tinct-\nure formed by infusing the saffron and the\n.sanders wood extract in the alcohol for 24\nhours, then straining. Metallic articles that\nare to be covered with this varnish are heated,\nand, if they admit of it, immersed in packets.\n13. For philosophical instruments: 1% oz.\ngamboge, 4 oz. sandarac, 4 oz. elemi, 2 oz. best\ndragon s blood, 13^ oz. terra merita [terra mer-\nita is the root of an Indian plant; it is of a red\ncolor and much used in dyeing; in varnishing\nit is only employed in the form of a tinct-\nure, and is particuarly well adapted for the\nmixture of those coloring parts which con-\ntribute tne most toward giving- metals the\ncolor of gold; in choosing it, be careful to\nobserve that it is sound and compact],\n-4 grn. oriental saffron, 2 oz. seed lac, 6 oz.\npounded glass, 40 oz. pure alcohol. The drag-\non s blood, gum elemi, seed lac and gamboge\n■are all pounded and mixed with the glass. Over\nthem is poured the tincture obtained by infus-\ning the saffron and terra merita in the alcohol\nfor 24 hours. This tincture, before being poured\n•over the dragon s blood, etc., should be strained\nthrough a piece of clean linen cloth and\nstrongly squeezed, if the dragon s blood gives\ntoo high a color, the quantity may be les-\nsened, according to circumstances. The same\nis the case with the other coloring matters.\nThis lacquer has a very good effect when ap-\nplied to many cast or moulded articles used in\nornamenting furniture.\nPale Lacquer. 1 gal. of methylated alcohol\n■5 oz. of shellac, 4 oz. of gum sandarac and\n1 oz. of gum elemi; mix in a tin flask and expose\nto a gentle heat for a day or two, then strain\noff and add Yq gallon of spirit to the sediment\nand treat as before.\nPhilosophical Instruments, Lacquer for.— Take\noz. of gum guttas (or gamboge), 2 oz. of gum\nsandarac, 2 oz. of gum elemi, 1 oz. of dragon s\nblood, 1 oz. of seed lac, 2 grn. of oriental saffron,\nand 20 oz. of pure alcohol. The tincture of saf-\nfron is obtained by infusing in alcohol for\ntwenty-four hours or exposing to the heat of\nthe sun in summer. The tincture must be\nstrained through a piece of clean linen cloth\nand ought to be strongly squeezed. This tinc-\nture is poured over the dragon s blood, the gum\n■elemi, the seed lac and the gum guttae, all\npounded\nPhotographs, Lacquer for.— Dissolve 1 oz. of\n•dammar in 6 oz. of acetone. Apply several times.\nResin, Lacquer. Asphaltum, 1 part; rosin, 4\nparts; oil of turpentine, 2 parts: linseed oil var-\nnish, 3 parts.\nSpirit Lacquer, for Lacquering Wax Tapers-\nMastic, 40 parts; sandarac, 400 parts. Place\nthese articles in a fine sieve and suspend the\nsieve in a vessel containing 960 parts of alcohol\nof 96$, so that the resins will be just covered\nwith the alcohol. When the resins are dis-\nsolved, which will be in about twenty-four\nhours, filter.\nLeather, Black Lacquer /or.^Bed shellac, 6\nparts; J part each of Venice turpentine, castor\noil and sandarac, 30 parts strong alcohol and 1\npart of nigrosine.\nLeather, Cheap Lacquer for.— Twenty-three\nparts of black pitch are made into a solution\nwith the aid of 69 parts of benzole and 8 parts\nof turpentine are added\nTerra Cotta, Lacquer for.— Mastic, 1 part;\nshellac, 10 parts; Venice turpentine, 3 parts;\n20 parts strong alcohol.\nLacquer, Pale Tin.— Strongest alcohol, 4 oz.;\npowdered turmeric, 2 drm.; hay saffron, 1\nscruple; dragon s blood, in powder, 2 scruples;\nred sanders, Yz scruple. Infuse this mixture\nin the cold for forty-eight hours, pour off the\nclear and strain the rest; then add powdered\nshellac, }4 oz.; sandarac, ldrm.; mastic, 1 drm.;\nCanada balsam, 1 drm. Dissolve this in the\ncold by frequent agitation, laying the bottle on\nits side to present a greater surface to the\nalcohol. When dissolved add 40 drops of spirit\nof turpentine. Science Record, 187k.\nGold Lacquer for Tin Plate.— Clean the tin\nplate carefully and apply the following mix-\nture with a brush Dark copal lacquer, 3 parts;\nlinseed oil, 1J4 parts. Dry the plates. The lac-\nquer will not crack or lose its luster if the tin\nplates are bent or hammered.\nTin Plate, Lacquer f or. 1. Alcohol, 12 oz.; tur-\nmeric, 6 drm.; saffron, 3 scruples; sandarac, 3\ndrm.; Canada balsam, 3 drm.; mastic, 3 drm.\nWhen dissolved, add oil of turpentine, 120\nminims.\n2. Alcohol, 1 qt.; shellac, 4 oz.; red sanders, 1\noz.; turmeric, 2 oz. Shake frequently for\ntwenty-four hours, and bottle. Various colors\ncan be given to the lacquer by adding Prussian\nblue, lakes, etc.\n3. Use as a body shellac or gum sandarac var-\nnish. To make it adhere, add to it y% part\nboracic acid to 1,000 parts lacquer. Color with\nsuitable pigments, such as gamboge, Prussian\nblue or carmine. Aniline colors may be used,\nbut tend to fade. Excellent results may be at-\ntained by adding a little castor oil, which makes\nthe lacquer much tougher.\n4. Red, for Tinware.— Put 3 oz. seed lac and 2\ndrm. aniline, color of shade to suit, into 1 pt.\nwell rectified spirits. Let the whole remain\nfor fourteen days, but during that time agitate\nthe bottle once a day at least. When properly\ncombined, strain the liquid through muslin.\nLacquer for Steel.— Pure mastic, 8 parts cam-\nphor, 4 parts; sandarac, 12 parts; elemi, 4 parts.\nDissolve in pure alcohol; filter. Use the lac-\nquer cold. It will be clear and transparent\nwhen dry.\n^Lacquer for Tinfoil.— Alcohol, lj^qt.; shellac,\n10J^ oz. Dissolve the shellac in the alcohol and\nfilter. Prevent the evaporation of the alcohol\nas much as possible. Add to this shellac var-\nnish, 5J4 oz. best white gum elemi and 21 drm.\nVenetian turpentine. Let this mixture stand\nin a warm place; stir it frequently. Filter;\npress out the remainder, and add to the filtrate.\nThis varnish may be colored if desired.\nTools, Lacquer for. The* tools must be cleaned\nand polished so as to be absolutely free from\ngrease. They are next slightly warmed and\nvarnished with a solution of seed lac or shellac\nin alcohol. The success of the operation de-\npends on the clearness of the surface. A finger\ntouch before varnishing will affect the finish.\nTamer s Lacquer.— Gum elemi, 4 parts; shel-\nlac (bleached), 20 parts; Venice turpentine, 4\nparts; strong alcohol, 60 parts.\nA Universal Lacquer which is equally good\nfor paper, metal, wood, glass, etc., and which","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0316.jp2"},"313":{"fulltext":"Lactate.\n301\nLard.\nadmits of being colored with any aniline dye\nsoluble in alcohol, is, according to Del und Fett\nIndustrie, prepared as follows Bleached shel-\nlac, 60 grn.; manila copal (freshly powdered), 60\ngrn.; and gum mastic, 60 grn., is mixed with 1\nkg. alcohol of 93 to 95#, a small quantity of\ncoarsely powdered glass added, and the whole\nleft to stand for eight to fourteen days, fre-\nquently shaking; 1 grn. boracic acid is then\nadded, and the mixture filtered.\nWall Paper, Lacquer for.— Equal parts of\nborax and shellac are dissolved in ten times\ntheir weight of alcohol strain, and give two\ncoats. For a very light colored paper use\nsandarac instead of shellac. Paper treated\nwith this lacquer can be washed with water,\nand even with soap, if necessary.\nWax Lacquer.— White wax, 2 parts; benzol, 3\nparts.\nWood, Lacquer for.— Five parts each of mas-\ntic, sandarac, elemi, seed lac and bone black;\n10 parts of shellac; dissolve in 100 parts of al-\ncohol.\nZapon This is manufactured at Short Hills,\nN. J. This splendid lacquer is probably a solu-\ntion of celluloid in amyl acetate and aceton\n(proportions unknown). It can be bent with-\nout breaking. It can be washed and affords a\nperfect protection to the metal. It should be\nprocured of the maker. J. Car butt, of Wayne\nJunction, Pa., furnishes a varnish called Roxy-\nline, which is also very useful in metal work-\ning, though intended especially for photo-\ngraphic use. It is probably a solution of cellu-\nloid in fusel oil.\nZinc, Lacquer for.— A good lacquer consists\nof alcohol, 8 oz.; gamboge, 1 oz.; shellac, 3oz.;\nannatto, 1 oz.; solution of 3 oz. of seed lac in 1\npt. alcohol. When dissolved, add J4 oz. Venice\nturpentine and J4 oz. dragon s blood to make it\ndark. Keep in warm place for four or five\ndays.\nLactate.— A salt of lactic acid. A lactate\nyields large quantities of carbonic oxide gas.\nLadies Own.— Alcohol, 90$, 2 qt.; otto\nof roses 10 drops; essence of thyme, J4 oz.;\nessence of neroli, Yg oz.; essence vanilla, J4 oz.;\nessence of bergamot, oz.; orange flower\nwater, 3 oz.\nLagging;, for Steam Pipes.— Impure or\nsecond grade paper pulp mixed with Fuller s\nearth makes an excellent lagging for steam\npipes. See Boiler Covering.\nLake.— Animal or vegetable coloring mat-\nter, precipitated in combination with oxide of\ntin or alumina, usually the latter. The term\nwas formerly restricted to red preparations of\nthis kind, but is now. indiscriminately applied\nto all compounds of alumina and coloring mat-\nter. Lakes are made—\n1. By adding a solution of alum, either alone\nor saturated with potash, to an infusion or de-\ncoction of the coloring substance, and after\nagitation precipitating the mixture with a solu-\ntion of carbonate of potash.\n2. By precipitating a decoction or infusion\nof the coloring substance made with a weak al-\nkaline lye, by adding a solution of alum.\n3. By agitating recently precipitated alumina\nwith a solution of the coloring matter until the\nliquid becomes nearly decolored, or the alumina\nacquires a sufficiently dark tint.— Cooley.\nLakes. See Pigments.\nLamp Bulbs, Ineandescent, to Tint.\n—The following is due to Mr. Arthur S. Huey,\nof Minneapolis\n1. Prepare the glass by thoroughly washing\nin soap and water and drying. Then dip in\nbath, made by beating up the whites of two\neggs in V/% lb. or pt. of water and filtering, and\nhang up to dry. Dissolve the aniline color in\nphotographer s common collodion.\n2. Red or blue aniline will form clear solu-\ntions, while the green solution will require\nfiltering.\n3. Yellow aniline forms a handsome color, but\nthe surface of the glass presents a frosted ap-\npearance after the application.\n4. Violet and purple colors may be obtained\nby combining red and blue in different quanti-\nties. When the solution is ready, dip the pre-\npared glass bulbs therein, hang up to dry, and\nfinally pass a current through the bulb for half\nan hour, that the heat thus generated may har-\nden the coating of the collodion, or place in a\ncurrent of air.\n5. The preparation can easily be removed with\nalcohol or sulphuric ether, but is not affected\nby water. Experience has shown that the best\nresults are obtained by not using too much ani-\nline. Make the color light rather than deep,\nand apply two or three coats.\nLamps. The Management of Petroleum-\nLamps.— la view of the numerous fatal and\nother accidents caused by petroleum lamps, the\nMetropolitan Board of Works, London, Eng-\nland, have issued the following suggestions as\nto the construction and management of such\nlamps, which are founded on recommendations\nmade by Sir Frederick Abel and Mr. Boverton\nRedwood, chemist of the Petroleum Associa-\ntion, after investigating the causes of lamp\naccidents\n1. That portion of the wick which is in the oil\nreservoir should be inclosed in a tube of thin\nsheet metal, open at the bottom, or in a cylin-\nder of fine wire gauze, such as is used in miners\nsafety lamps (28 meshes to 1 in.).\n2. The oil reservoir should be of metal, rather\nthan of china or glass.\n3. The oil reservoir should have no feeding\nplace nor opening other than the opening into\nwhich the upper part of the lamp is screwed.\n4. Every lamp should have a proper extin-\nguishing apparatus.\n5. Every lamp should have a broad and heav T v\nbase.\n6. Wicks should be soft and not tightly\nplaited.\n7. Wicks should be dried at the fire before\nbeing put into lamps.\n8. Wicks should be only just long enough to\nreach the bottom of *he oil reservoir.\n9. Wicks should be so wide that they quite fill\nthe wickholder without having to be squeezed\ninto it.\n10. Wicks should be soaked with oil before\nbeing lit.\n11. The reservoir should be quite filled with\noil every time before using the lamp.\n12. The lamp should be kept thoroughly clean,\nall oil should be carefully wiped off, and all\ncharred wick and dirt removed before lighting.\n13. When the lamp is lit, the wick should be\nat first turned down, and then slowly raised.\n14. Lamps which have no extinguishing ap-\nparatus should be put out as follows The wick\nshould be turned down until there is only a\nsmall flickering flame, and a sharp puff of\nbreath should then be sent across the top of the\nchimney, but not down it.\n15. Cans or bottles used for oil should be free\nfrom water and dirt, and should be kept thor-\noughly closed.\nThe suggestions apply to ordinary mineral oil\nlamps, such as are generally used, and not to\nbenzoline or spirit lamps.\nLances. See Pyroteclmy.\nLantern Slides. See Photography.\nLaps, to Charge with Diamond\nDust.— Mix the diamond dust with good olive\noil or lard oil, with one-quarter best kerosene\noil added to thin and make it spread freely.\nUse a small iron wire flattened a little at the\nend like a spatula; dip in the diamond dust, and\nhold against the edge of the wheel. It requires\nvery little to do the work.\nLard. Lard, to Prepare. In preparing\nlard for the market, it should first be cut into\npieces about the size of a walnut, and these","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0317.jp2"},"314":{"fulltext":"Lard.\n302\nLeather.\nshould be allowed to stand in water for half an\nhour. Then work the material with the hands\nin five or six successive portions of water.\nNext pour off the water, melt the lard in a\nwater bath, and strain through fine linen. In\nthe first straining, it will be impossible to get\nrid of all the water so that after cooling and\ndraining, it will be necessary to remelt the lard\nand finally to filter it through paper in a warm\ncloset.\nLard, to Keep Sweet.— Even during the warm-\nest weather lard can be kept sweet by the fol-\nlowing plan: When rendering (melting) it,\nthrow into each kettle a handful of fresh slip-\npery elm bark. No further preparation is\nnecessary. No salt must be added to it at any\ntime. The jars in which the lard is to be kept\nmust be thoroughly cleansed.\nLard, Making.— 1. Cut the fat up into pieces\n2 in. square; fill a vessel holding about 3 gal.\nwith the pieces; put in a pint of boiled lye,\nmade from oak and hickory ashes, and strained\nbefore using; boil gently over a slow fire, un-\ntil the cracklings have turned brown; strain\nand set aside to cool. By the above process\nyou will get more lard, a better article, and\nwhiter than by any other process.\n2. Cleanliness is the great point in treating\nlard. The fat is freed from all adhering fleshy\nor discolored matter by cutting. It is then cut\nup into small pieces and washed until the\nwater runs off clear. It is next melted by\ndirect fire or steam coil until it becomes per-\nfectly clear. It is run through close linen\nfilters into the barrels, in which it is stirred\nuntil white and opaque, but only thickly fluid.\nThe great point is when to cease stirring. It\nis then cooled and tightlv covered. Air makes\nit rancid.\nLard, to Try.— This operation is very sim-\nple. Set a large kettle over a fire in some\nsheltered place, out of doors, on a still day. It\nwill cook much quicker in large quantities.\nPut into the kettle, while the lard is cold, a little\nsaleratus, say one tablespoonful to every\n201b.; stir almost constantly when nearly done,\ntill the scraps are brown or crisp, or until the\nsteam ceases to rise, then there is no danger of\nits moulding; strain out into pans, and the first\nwill be ready to empty into crocks when the\nlast is strained.\nLatitude.— Rule for finding the latitude\nand departure of a course when the distance\nand bearing are given. Latitude= length of\ncourse x cosine of bearing. Departure= length\nof course X sine of bearing.\nLaunches.— The following table gives the\nsizes of steam launches built by Yarrow and\nHedley, of London, who make them a specialty,\nand build hundreds of boats for use in all parts\nof the world\n(Length of\nBeam.\nHorse power\nDraught of\nlaunch.\n(indicated).\nwater.\n23 ft.\n5 ft. 3 in.\n5\n2 ft.\n30 ft.\n6 ft.\n7\n2 ft. 3 in.\n37 ft.\n6 ft. 6 in.\n12\n2 ft. 6 in.\n43 ft.\n8 ft.\n16\n2 ft. 9 in.\n50 ft.\n9 ft. 6 in.\n30\n3 ft.\nLaundry. See Cleansing.\nLavender, Conserve of. Take of\nLavender flowers (fresh) 1 part.\nLump sugar (powdered) 3 parts.\nBeat them together in a marble mortar to a\nsmooth paste. Similar conserves are prepared\nfrom other fragrant flowers and leaves, par-\nticularly those having a sweet or agreeable\ntaste, in which case only twice their weight of\nsugar is usually employed. They are used to\nsweeten the breath, but lozenges and pastilles\nare much more convenient for the purpose.\nLavender Water. See AVaters.\nLead, to Protect against Corrosion.\nProf. Emerson Reynolds describes a process for\nthe protection of lead against corrosion, which\nconsists in coating it with a film of sulphide of\nlead. He recommends the following method\nTake 16 grm. of solid caustic soda, dissolve\nit in 1*75 liters of water, and add to the liquid\n17 grm. of nitrate of lead, or an equivalent of\nother lead salt, with 250 cubic centimeters of\nwater; raise the temperature of the mixture\nto 90° C. If sufficient lead salt has been added\nthe liquid will remain somewhat turbid after\nheating, and must then be rapidly strained or\nfiltered through asbestos, glass wool, or other\nsuitable material, into a convenient vessel.\nThe filtered liquid is then well mixed with 100\ncubic centimeters of hot water, containing in\nsolution 4 grm. of sulpho-urea or thio-carba-\nmide. If the temperature of the mixture be\nmaintained at about 70° C, deposition of sul-\nphide of lead or galena, in the form of a fine\nadherent film or layer, quickly takes place on\nany object immersed in or covered with the\nliquid, provided the object be in a perfectly\nclean condition and suitable for the purpose.\nLead Pipe, to Protect.— The Revue In-\ndustrielle says that the interior of a lead pipe\ncan be covered with an incrustation of sul-\nphide of lead by making a warm concentrated\nsolution of sulphide of potash flow through it\nfor ten or fifteen minutes. Pipes thus treated\nseem to be covered with grayish varnish, which\nprevents the water flowing through them from\nacting upon the lead.\nLead, to Prevent from Exploding.—\nWhen pouring melted lead around a damp or\nwet joint, it will often explode or blow out.\nThis may be prevented by putting a piece of\nresin the size of the end of a man s thumb into\nthe ladle and let it melt before pouring.\nLead Plates, to Join. The edges are\nbrought together, hammered down into a\nchannel cut out of wood and secured with a\nfew tacks. The hollow is then scraped clean\nwith a scraper, rubbed over with tallow, and a\nstream of hot lead is poured into it, the sur-\nface being afterward smoothed with a hot\nplumber s iron.\nLead, Sugar of.— Another name for lead\nacetate. It is very poisonous and is exten-\nsively used in dyeing, etc.\nLead Tree.— Ingredients: Sugar of lead,\n34 oz. zinc fastened to a wire (copper or brass)\ntwisted in the form of a spiral spring. From\nthe center suspend a small porcelain doll with\nwire twisted around it. Place the lead acetate\nin a bottle of water, shake well, then thrust\nzinc and appendages into it and cork securely.\nIn a few days the tree will begin to grow, and\nproduce a most beautiful effect.\nLeather. See also Belting and Tan-\nning.\nLeather, Artificial— 1. The leather scraps are\nfirst steeped in weak lime water, and then\nground fine in ordinary rag-engines as used by\npaper makers. The leather is then mixed with\nabout half of good manilla rope, colored with\nVenetian red, and is now ready to be made into\neither leather board, shoe shanks, heels, or\nstiffenings for heels and toes. The boards are\nmade on an ordinary cylinder board machine,\nand can be made up to y% in. thick and more.\nThe shoe shanks are stamped to the proper\nshape and size on two machines, and then\ndried. The stiffenings and toes are cut by a\nmachine from the leather board, and then\nturned and formed to shape and size by an-\nother machine, and dried.\n2. Leather scrap is shredded, and is then\nmixed with strong liquid ammonia, which\nforms a gelatinous mass. It is soluble in water,\nand has no elasticity until it is mixed with\nIndia rubber, dissolved in bisulphide of carbon,\nand well kneaded, when it is also rendered","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0318.jp2"},"315":{"fulltext":"Leather.\nG03\nLeather.\nwaterproof. It is then ready for putting in\nheel blocks or moulds. Proportion\nFor soles\nFor heels\nRubber.\n25\n25\nAmmonia.\n67\n80\nLeather.\n67 parts.\n80 parts.\nArtificial Leather for Lithographers Rollers.—\nGlue, 40 parts; saltpeter, 6 parts; sirup, 40\npa^is; sugar, 6 parts; water, 10 parts; chrome\nyeLow, 2 parts oil of almonds, 2 parts. Melt\na~±d pour around a core, about in. less in\ndiameter than the mould. Take from the\nmould when cool, and put for 10 hours in a\nsolution composed of 2 parts sulphate of alu-\nmina, 20 parts water, 2 parts potash. Dry in\nthe air four or five days.\nLeather, Blacking for. See Blacking.\nBelts, to Lace. See also Belting.\nA correspondent in the Scientific American\nsays I send you a sample of belt lacing which\nI am using in my factory. It is far superior to\nany other way of lacing. It runs smoother on\nsmall pulleys, as it bends to fit them, lo lace\nit, commence in middle or either side. If in\nmiddle divide the string into equal lengths if\non edge, same as sketch, by fastening one end\nand running across and back. You will readily\nsee its advantages. I suggest it so others may\nbe benefited.\nLeather Boards. A very hard variety of\nboards is manufactured partly from leather\nclippings. The leather for this purpose is cut\ninto small pieces like rags, reduced in the\nengine with about the same quantity of bag-\nging and waste paper, and made into boards on\na cylinder in the ordinary manner. The boards\nacquire the appearance, and to some extent\nthe properties, of leather. The material re-\nquires considerable time for washing and\ngrinding, and size is unnecessary in its manu-\nfacture.\nLeather, Bronzing for. See Bronzing.\nLeather, Cement for. See Cements.\nLeather, to Dye. See Dyeing.\nLeather, Gilding on. See Gilding.\nLeather, Glue for. See Glues.\nLeather, to Harden. Ordinary hemlock\ntanned sole leather may be said to be hardened\nwithout any material alteration of its nature\nby the following treatment. Prepare a bath\nas follows\nSlaked lime lb.\nSal soda 2 lb.\nWater J^ gal.\nBoil together cool, and add—\nSlaked lime lb.\nWater V* gal..\nPut the leather into this for three days, then\nremove and put it into a bath of\nSlaked lime 3 lb.\nWater gal.\nand let it soak in this for from two days in\nsummer to three days— or even four days in\nwinter. When taken out of this, pass through\nwater heated to about 180° F., and then pass\nbet vveen heavily weighted rolls, or if a denser\nmaterial is demanded, press in a hydraulic\npress. When subjected to the latter, a product\nnearly as hard as vulcanite is obtained, but one\nstill possessing the appearance and nature of\nleather quite distinctly.\nLeather, Imitation of (Soren-Sorensons).\nPrepared from leather waste and caoutchouc.\nThe leather is first freed from all foreign sub-\nstances, then by machinery converted into a\nfibrous, homogeneous material. Then it is\ntreated by ammoniacal liquor. This forms a\ngelatinous compound which may be pressed in\nmoulds or rolled out in plates. This compound\nis stiff and hard, but not elastic, and soluble in\nwater. It is mixed with caoutchouc to give it\nelasticity and make it insoluble in water. The\ncaoutchouc is washed, dried, cut up in small\npieces, dissolved in oil of turpentine and mixed\nwith the leather. The mixture is kneaded and\nthen pressed in moulds.\nLeather Imitation.— A mixture recommended\nconsists of 16 parts gelatine and 5 parts gly-\ncerine. A coloring matter is then added as\nmay be required— caoutchouc to give elasticity,\nand boiled linseed oil to render the whole suffi-\nciently flexible. This composition is spread\nupon linen while hot, printed with any pat-\ntern desired. The surface is then treated with\na solution of alum, sulphate of iron, copper, or\nzinc. These saline solutions may likewise be\nmixed with the composition before it is spread\non the linen. The surface is lastly varnished,\nand may be bronzed or gilt. Another compo-\nsition is obtained by boiling linseed oil with\nquicklime and borax, which forms a liquid\nthat, on cooling, becomes a thick paste. It is\nthen mixed with rasped cork and more quick-\nlime.\nSee also Artificial Leather above.\nLeather, Lacquers for. See Lacquers.\nLeather (Patent), to Cover the Cracks.— Use\nthe following: Take J^lb. molasses or sugar,\n1 oz. gum arabic,and 2 lb. ivory black; boil them\nwell together, then let the vessel stand until\nquite cooled; after which bottle off. This is an\nexcellent reviver, and may be used as a black-\ning in the ordinary way, no brushes for polish-\ning being required.\nThe first coats of the japan for patent leather\nare made with linseed oil and Prussian blue,\nboiled together for some hours; the last coat\nor varnish, with linseed oil and lampblack,\nsimilarly boiled. Each coat is separately dried\nat a temperature of 160° to 180° F. (71° to 82° C),\nand rubbed on the leather by the hand, the\nskin being nailed on to the surface of a board.\nAs the process is a very delicate one, and re-\nquires special knowledge in each part of the\noperation, it would be useless for any one to\nattempt to produce japanned leather, except\nas an experiment, for his own amusement,\nwithout serving an apprenticeship to the\nPaste for Preserving the Gloss of Patent Leather\nand to Prevent Cracking.— Melt wax with a lit-\ntle oil of turpentine, olive oil and lard. Mix\nthoroughly together. When cool it should be\na thick paste. Vaseline is excellent. Allow it to\nremain on one half hour, then dry with Canton\nflannel.\nLeather, to Polish. See Polishing.\nLeather Preservative.— For leather preserva-\ntives that are waterproof\nBeeswax 18 parts.\nSpermaceti 6 parts.\nOil turpentine 66 parts.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0319.jp2"},"316":{"fulltext":"Leather.\n304\nLeaves.\nAsphalt varnish 5 parts.\nBorax, powdered 1 part.\nVine twig, black 5 parts.\nPrussian blue. 2 parts.\nNitro benzol 1 part.\nMelt the wax, add powdered borax and stir till\na kind of jelly has formed. In another pan\nmelt spermaceti, add the asphalt varnish, pre-\nviously mixed with oil of turpentine, stir\nwell, and add to the wax. Lastly, add the\ncolor, previously rubbed smooth with a little\nof the mass. Perfume with nitro benzol and\npour into boxes. Apply in small quantities,\nwipe with a cloth, and brush. Use only once a\nweek.\nLeather, to Preserve.— 1. Equal parts of mut-\nton fat and linseed oil, mixed with their\nweight of Venice turpentine, and melted to-\ngether in an earthen pipkin, will produce a\ndubbing which is very efficacious in preserving\nleather when exposed to wet or snow, etc. It\nshould be applied when the leather is quite dry\nand warm. 2. Many other formulae exist for\ndubbing, but all contain essentially the same\ningredients, 3. A solution of 1 oz. solid par-\nafflne in 1 pt. light naphtha, to which 6 drops\nsweet oil have been added, is put cold on the\nsoles, until they absorb no more. One dress-\ning will do for the uppers. This process vastly\nincreases the tensile strength of every stitch;\nand, while not removing the natural moisture\nof the leather, decidedly waterproofs the boot.\nA sole lasts two months longer when so treated.\n4. There is nothing like castor oil for preserv-\ning leather. Applied once a month, or once\nor twice a week in snowy weather, it not only\nkeeps the leather soft, but makes it water-\nproof. Copal varnish is the best thing to ap-\nply to the soles; but the latter should be thor-\noughly dry, and if they have been worn, they\nshould be previously roughed on the surface\nbefore applying the varnish. Linseed oil is\nerhaps better than nothing, but it rots the\neather; hence the objection to dubbings and\nother mix ups of mutton suet, linseed oil, etc.\nThe very best thing for waterproofing soles is\nSzerelmey s freestone liquid; three or four\ncoats of this render the sole perfectly water-\nproof, and more durable. With regard to\ncastor oil, it may further be said that it does\nnot prevent a polish being produced on the\nboots, and that leather so treated is avoided\nby rats, if even its proportion be only }4 to\ntallow. 5. Long continued observation shows\nthat harness and other leather exposed to the\naction of ammonia, continually given off in\nstables, become weak and rotten sooner than\nordinary leather. Even when care is taken to\nprotect them with grease this takes place.\nThe addition of a small quantity of glycerine\nto the oil or fat employed in greasing such kind\nof leather has been recommended to keep it\nalways pliable and soft.\nLeather Bags, to Restore. Wash over with a\nstrong hot decoction of logwood, and if the\ncolor does not please, go over afterward with\nsolution of green copperas.\nLeather, Varnish for. See Varnishes.\nLeaves, Artificial. Usually of the fine\nglossy silk stuff known as taffeta. The taffeta\nis dyed of the proper green in the piece before\ncutting out. It is then stretched out to dry,\nand afterward further prepared with gum\narabic on one side, to represent the glossy up-\nper surface of the leaves, and with starch on\nthe other, to give the velvety appearance of\nthe under side. The latter preparation, colored\nto suit the exact shade of green to be given to\nthe leaf, must be just of the proper consistence,\nmaking the leaf neither too stiff nor too limp,\nwhile it gives the proper kind of under surf ace.\nWhere the leaf requires a marked degree of\nthis velvet texture, it is given by the nap of\nCloth, reduced to a fine powder and properly\ntinted. A little gum is lightly passed over the\nsurface, and when partly dry this powder is\ndusted over the surface, the superfluous portion\nbeing shaken off. For giving to the leaf the\nappearance of nature, by representing the\nveins and indentations which they always ex-\nhibit, various gauffering tools are made use of.\nLeaves, to Bleach. See Bleaching.\nLeaves, to Copy.— Take a piece of thin muslin*\nand wrap it tightly round a ball of cotton wool\nas big as an orange. This forms a dabber, and\nshould have something to hold it by. Then\nsqueeze on to the corner of a half sheet of\nfoolscap a little color from a tube of oil paint.\nTake up a very little color on the dabber, and\nwork it about on the center of the paper for\nsome time, till the dabber is evenly covered with\nathin coating. A little oil can be used to dilute\nor moisten the color if necessary. Then put\nyour leaf down on the paper and dab some\ncolor evenly over both sides. Place it then be-\ntween the pages of a folded sheet of paper (un-\nglazed is best), and rub the paper above it well\nall over with the finger. Open the sheet, re-\nmove the leaf, and you will have an impression\nof each side of the leaf. Any color may be\nused. Burnt or raw sienna works the most\nsatisfactorily.— See Leaves, to Print.\nLeaves, Preserving.— 1. They may, after press-\ning, be dipped in melted beeswax; the same\nmay be applied solid to the surface and be\nmelted with a hot smoothing iron; or they\nmay be varnished with dammar varnish or\nCanada balsam. Varnishing is objectionable\non account of time required for drying.\n2. It depends somewhat upon the season\nwhen the leaves develop their greatest beauty\nand variety of tints. Sumac and the leaves of\nsimilar plants or trees are usually gathered\nearly in October. Maple, alder, oak, linden,\netc., are now at their best. To preserve the\nleaves they should be thoroughly dried as soon\nas possible after gathering and trimming. A\nsimple method of drying the leaves expedi-\ntiously is the following Spread the leaves and\npress in a suitable pan with alternate layers of\nfine sifted dry sand heated as hot as the hand\ncan bear and set aside to cool. When the sand\nhas cooled the leaves may be removed, smooth-\ned under a hot iron, dipped for a moment in\nclear French spirit varnish, and allowed to dry\nin the air.\n3. Melted paraffine and wax are sometimes\npreferred to the varnish.\n4. The following is another way Spread seve«\nral thicknesses of fine wrapping paper on the\nironing table; arrange the leaves of the spray,\npicking off those which do not add to its beau-\nty, and lay it out smooth. Pass a warm flat\niron over a cake of wax and then over the\nleaves— first on one side and then on the other.\nThen place the sprays between sheets of bibu-\nlous paper, and put under pressure between\ntwo flat boards, for several weeks, changing\nthe paper several times.\nTo Make Skeleton Leaves.— Place the leaves\nin a little rain water, to which a trace of yeast\nhas been added. Allow the fermentation to\nproceed until the membranous portion be-\ncomes soft and easily washed away in a stream\nof water. They are bleached by dipping for\na few minutes in a strong aqueous, solution of\nsulphurous acid gas, or exposing them (while\nmoist) in a box filled with the vapor of burn-\ning sulphur.\n3. How to Make Skeleton Leaves and Crystal-\nlized Grasses.— These pleasing preparations for\nhousehold adornment may be made as follows:\nThere is a slow and quick method; the former is\nby procuring the natural decomposition of the\npulpy substance of the leaf by exposure to light\nin a dish of water; the quick method is by the use\nof a weak alkaline destructive solution of\nwhich soda and lime are the active agents. By\nthe slow method one may proceed as follows:\nThe leaves are laid out smoothly in a pan or\ndish, and covered with rain water 2 or 3 in. deep,\nand are held down by means of sheets of glass","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0320.jp2"},"317":{"fulltext":"Leaves.\n305\nLeave*.\nresting 1 on small stones at the corners, by which\nthey are prevented from pressing too closely\non the leaves They are exposed to the sunlight\nin a warm window. In two or three weeks\nthey are examined, and all those that have be-\ncome soft and pulpy are removed to another\ndish to be cleaned. The rest are left until\nthey, too, become soft. The softened leaves\nare carefully removed one by one by being\nfloated on to a small sheet of glass; the pulp is\npressed out by means of a small stiff painters\nbrush or a tooth brush, used by tapping up and\ndown, and not by a sweeping motion. This\nbreaks up the pulp only, which is washed away\nby pouring water upon it from a small pitcher.\nTo make this convenient, the glass may be\nplaced on two wooden bars resting on the edges\nof a deep dish, with a towel under it to catch the\nsplashings.\n4. The quick method is as follows Four oz. sal\nsoda are dissolved in 1 qt. hot water, 2 oz. quick-\ntime ^are added, and the whole boiled for twenty\nminutes. The solution is cooled and strained.\nThe leaves are then boiled in this for one hour,\nor until the pulp is easily removed, when it is\nwashed off as already mentioned. The fibers\nremain, leaving a perfect skeleton or frame-\nwork of the leaf. This is bleached by exposure\nto a solution of 1 tablespoonful of chloride of\nlime in 1 qt. water, strained clear from sedi-\nment. The skeletons are placed in a dish, cov-\nered with this solution and kept in a dark closet\nfor two days, watching in the meantime that\nthe fibers are not softened too much and thus\ninjured. After bleaching, the leaves are steeped\nin clear soft water for a day, and then floated\noff upon a card and placed between soft napkins\nuntil dry. They are then ready to be finally\npressed, bent, curled or arranged in bouquets or\ngroups.\nCrystallized Grasses.— 5. Crystallized grasses\nand sprays are made as follows Thebunches are\nfirst arranged in a suitable manner, tied and\nsecured; a solution of 4 oz. alum to 1 qt. boiling\nwater is made, and when this has cooled to\nabout 90° or blood heat, the bunch of grass and\nleaves is suspended in it, in a deep jar, from a\nrod placed across the mouth of it; as the liquid\ncools crystals of alum are deposited upon every\nspray, the finer and smaller the weaker the so-\nlution is made. This deposit of crystals occurs\nin the cooling liquid, because hot water dis-\nsolves more alum than cold water, and as the\nwater cools the excess of alum forms crystals\nwhich attach themselves to any fibrous matter\nin contact with it more readily than to any-\nthing else. These crystals enlarge by accretion\nconstantly, as long as there is an excess of alum\nin the solution. AVhen the supply is exhausted\nthe solution is warmed and more alum is dis-\nsolved in it; it is returned to the jar and the\nbunch of grasses is replaced. When sufficiently\ncovered with crystals it is taken out and dried\nand is finished.— N. Y. Times.\nLeaf Prints, How to Make.— Several years\nago I devised a method of taking leaf prints\nof marked beauty, and a specimen of the work\nrecently sent to Dr. Gray elicited the reply:\nIt is a new way. Better send account of it to\nBotanical Gazette, etc. I do so, prompted by\nthe belief that the method may be of actual\nusefulness to the botanist as well as a refining\nrecreation for those who love nature on general\nprinciples.\nThere will be needed for the work 1. A small\nink roller, such as printers use for inking type.\n2. A quantity of green printer s ink. 3. A pane\nof stout window glass (the larger the better),\nfastened securely to an evenly planed board\ntwice the size of the glass. A small quantity\nof the ink is put on the glass and spread with a\nknife, after which it is distributed evenly by\ngoing over in all directions with the ink roller.\nWhen this has been carefully done, the leaf to\nbe copied is laid on a piece of waste paper and\ninked by applying the roller once or twice with\nmoderate pressure. This leaves a film of ink\non the veins and network of the leaf, and by\nplacing it on a piece of blank paper and apply-\ning considerable pressure for a few moments\nthe work is done, and when the leaf is lifted\nfrom the paper the impress remains with all its\ndelicate tracery, faithful in color and outline\nto the original.\nTo get the best results, however, several\npoints must be carefully noted. Get a 54 or\nlb. of dark green ink, which is put up in col-\nlapsible tubes, costing from fifty cents to $2 a\npound, according to quality. As sold it is in-\nvariably too thick for this purpose and should\nbe thinned by adding several drops of balsam\ncopaiba to as much ink as may be taken on a\nsalt spoon.\nMuch depends on the proper consistency of\nthe ink. In inking the leaf is apt to curl on the\nroller, but it should part readily from it. In\ncase it sticks tightly the ink is too thick. Take\ncare that the ink is evenly distributed on the\nglass and roller, as it is essential that each part\nof the leaf receives an equal coating of ink. If\nthe leaf is large, ink it part by part, keeping\nthe roller supplied frequently. A roller 3 in.\nlong, costing forty cents, will answer for all\nsmall leaves and branches of plants. Clean the\nroller with benzine after using. If the leaf is\nfinely veined the lower surface makes the bet-\nter print, but if the veins are coarse and large\nthe upper surface may be used. If the speci-\nmen is fleshy or brittle, allow it to wilt until it\nbecomes more pliable, or, if necessary, it may\nbe pressed and dried first. In most cases the\nbest copy is obtained after taking one or two\nimpressions, as the leaf takes the ink better\nafter several applications. A good quality of\nunsized paper that is made slightly damp by\nputting in a cellar several hours before using\nis best for general work, but in other cases\nwell sized paper will take a copy that will allow\na foliotype (may I coin the word to bear in-\nspection side by side with a good lithograph. I\nfind a copying press very valuable in making\nthe impression, especially if the leaf is at all\ncoriaceous. If it be soft it should be covered\nwith a few thicknesses of newspaper. If it is\nirregular in thickness, paper may be laid over\nthe thin parts, so that equal pressure is re-\nceived. This is necessary with all leaves that\nhave thick stems. If the leaf or branch is very\nirregular or delicate or in the absence of a press\nof any kind, the specimen may be covered with\nseveral layers of paper and held in place with\none hand while the pressure is applied with the\nthumb or palm, of the other hand as requir-\ned.\nThese particulars are as complete as practi-\ncable. Experiment will lead to many improve-\nments in details. Employ tact and neatness,\nand you will be surprised at the result. For\nillustrating monographs and similar papers\nwhere the number is too limited to warrant an\nexpensive lithograph, for identifying a rare\nspecimen, or as an adjunct to an herbarium\ncombining portability, unalterability and\nbeauty withal, the method seems particularly\nfitted. But aside from this, others may find a\ndelightful and instructive recreation in tak-\ning prints of the entire flora of the old farm,\nthe trees of a certain grove, the native annuals\nof a county, the ferns of a State, or any other\nspecial field that seems most inviting. Such\ncopies may be taken in a blank book suited to\nthe purpose, or, better, take them on single\nsheets of uniform size, as in this way imperfect\ncopies may be thrown out, and when the work\nis completed they may be named, classified and\nbound, making a volume of real value and\nworthy of just pride. I would esteem it a\nfavor as well as a pleasure to hear personally\nfrom any one who may employ this method in\nany way the coming season concerning the\nprogress of their work, with its attendant im-\nperfections and successes.— Horace 31. Engle, in\nBotanical Gazette.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0321.jp2"},"318":{"fulltext":"Lemonade.\n306\nLightning Rods.\nLeclanche Batteries. See Batteries,\nLeclanche.\nLemarquand s Alloy. See Alloys.\nLemonade.— 1. Peel off the yellow rinds\nfrom one dozen bright fresh lemons, taking-\ncare that none of the rind is detached but the\nyellow zest— that portion in which the cells are\nplaced containing the essential oil of the fruit.\nPut these rinds into an earthen vessel, pour\nover them one pint of boiling water, and set\naside in a warm situation to infuse. Express\nthe juice from 2 dozen lemons, strain it into a\nporcelain bowl, and add 2 lb. of fine white\nsugar, 3 qt. water and the infusion from the\npeels. Stir all well together until the sugar is\ncompletely dissolved. Now sample, and if re-\nquired add more acid or more sugar take care\nnot to have it too watery make it rich with\nplenty of fruit juice and sugar.\n2. To the juice of 6 lemons and the yellow\nrind of 2 lemons, and ]4 lb. of sugar and 1 qt. of\nwater. Ice the lemonade. Water may be added\naccording to taste afterward.\nArtificial Lemonade.— 3. Loaf sugar, 2 lb.; tar-\ntaric acid, oz.; essence of lemon, 30 drops;\nessence of almonds, 20 drops. Dissolve the tar-\ntaric acid in 2 pt. hot water, add the sugar and\nlastly the lemon and almond stir well, cover\nwith a cloth, and leave until cold put 2 table-\nspoonfuls into a tumbler, and fill up with cold\nwater. This.drink, it is said, will be found\nmuch more refeshing and more palatable than\neither ginger beer or lemonade, and costs only\n30 cents for 10 pt. The addition of a very little\nbicarbonate of potash to each tumblerful just\nbefore drinking will give a wholesome efferves-\ncing drink.— Scientific American.\n4. Lemonade, Milk.— Dissolve lb. loaf sugar\nin 1 pt. boiling water, and mix with 1 gill lemon\njuice and 1 gill sherry; then add 3 gills cold\nmilk. Stir the whole well together and then\nstrain it.\n5. Take f ou lemons, pare the rind as thin as\npossible; squeeze them into 1 qt. water, add y%\nlb. fine sugar; let it stand two or three hours,\nand pass it through a jelly bag.\n6. Another, Effervescing (without a Machine).\n—Put into each bottle 2 drm. sugar, 2 drops\nessence of lemon, \\4 drm. bicarbonate potash,\nand water to fill the bottle; then drop in 35 or\n40 grn. of citric or tartaric acid in crystals, and\ncork immediately, placing the bottles in a cool\nplace, or preferably, in iced water.\n7. Mr. Bartlett recommends 2 scruples ses-\nquicarbonate of soda, 2 drm. sugar, 4 drops\nessence of lemon and J^pt. water; lastly, 8 drm.\ntartartic acid in crystals. Care must be taken\nto avoid accidents from the bursting of the\nbottles.\n8. Another form is Into a soda water bottle\nnearly filled with water, put 1 oz. sugar, 2 drops\nessence of lemon (dropped on the sugar), 20 grn.\nbicarbonate of potash in crystals; and, lastly,\n30 to 40 grn. of citric acid, also in crystals. Cork\nimmediately.\n9. Lemonade Powder.— Take 1 oz. crystallized\ncitric acid, rub it fine, and mix thoroughly with\n1 lb. dry pulverized white sugar, put in a single\ndrop of oil of lemon peel to flavor it and mix\nwell; preserve in bottles for future use. In\nplace of citric acid you may take tartaric acid.\nLemon Beer. See Beers.\nLemon Juice, Artificial.— Succus Limo-\nnium Factitius.— 1. Citric or tartaric acid, 2M\noz.; gum, oz.; pieces of fresh lemon peel,\noz.; loaf sugar, 2 oz.; boiling water, lqt.; macer-\nate with occasional agitation till cold and\nstrain. Excellent.\n2. Water, 1 pt.; sugar, 1 oz.; essence of lemon,\n30 drops; pure acetic acid to acidulate. In-\nferior. Both are used to make lemonade.\nLength, Measures of. See Appendix.\nLenses, to Cement. See Cements.\nLenses, Rust on. See Cleansing.\nLenses, to Separate. Place in cold\nwater, heat until the water gets hot and the\nbalsam has melted.\nLetters, Porcelain, Cement for. See\nCements.\nLevigation.— The process of reducing sub-\nstances to fine powder by making them into a\nEaste with water and grinding the mass on a\nard, smooth stone or slab, with a conical piece\nof stone having a flat, smooth under surface,\ncalled a muller. Levigation is resorted to in\nthe preparation of paints on a small scale and\nin the elutriation of powder. The term is also,\nsometimes, incorrectly applied to the length-\nened trituration of a substance in a marble or\nWedgwood ware mortar.\nLeys.— Ley is an aqueous solution of caustic\nsoda or potassa, by the agency of which the\nchemical decomposition of the fat and its con-\nversion to soap are effected. Caustic soda is a\ncommercial commodity, but it may happen\nthat the soapmaker will have to prepare his.\nown leys. Reduce the soda or potassa into\nsmall pieces, mix it with slaked lime, let it\nstand twenty-four hours and then leach it out\nwith water. For this purpose large tanks are\nused, having a perforated floor, placed from 2\nto 4 in. above the bottom and covered with a\nlayer of straw, on which is poured the mixture\nof lime with the alkali. A faucet is inserted\nbetween this perforated floor and the bottom,\nby means of which the liquor can be drawn off.\nThe leys prepared in this way are never per-\nfectly caustic.\nLice, on Cattle.— Take 1 pt. fish oil, pour\nit on the animal gradually, from the back of\nthe horns to the root of the tail. To cure the\ncow itch or scratches Paint the pastern joint\nweD with white lead and oil; any kind of vege-\ntable or animal oil will answer. Keep the cow\nhaltered so she cannot lick her feet or go into\nwater for one week. One application of each\nremedy is sufficient. On using the oil for lice\nI have seen a cow in seven days time shed her\ncoat and in fourteen days 1 time a new and\nbeautiful coat of hair in its place; took on fat\nso very fast that in thirty days time she was\nready to kill for beef, and good beef at that.\nThis in all was thirty days from the time she\nhad been served with the dose of oil on her\nback. She had the prettiest coat of hair I ever\nsaw on an animal s back. We keep our dogs\nwell greased with tanner s oil, to kill fleas and\nkeep off flies in summer time.— G. B.\nLice, to Destroy Chicken.— Last sum-\nmer our hen house was so infested with this\nvermin that the sitting hens died on their\nnests. One afternoon I noticed the martins\ncarrying to their box— which was on a pole\nabove the hennery— some green leaves. Watch-\ning them I found that they were getting the\nleaves of the male persimmon. I gathered\nsome of the leaves, threw them into the nests\non the hen house floor, and in less than one\nhour the house was free from the vermin. To\nboil the leaves and sprinkle with the decoction\nwill be as effective.— Southern Cultivator.\nLice, Plant. See Aphides.\nLice, on Turkeys.— Put a tablespoonful\nof sulphur in the nest as soon as hens or tur-\nkeys are set. The heat of the fowls causes the\nfumes of the sulphur to penetrate every part\nof their bodies, every louse is killed, and, as all\nnits are hatched within ten days, when the\nmother leaves the nest with her brood she ia\nperfectly free from nits or lice.\nLicorice Lozenges.— Take lump sugar,\n100 parts; licorice, 150 parts; powdered starch,\n40 parts; mucilage to fix.\nLightning Rods. Code of Rules for the\nErection of Lightning Conductors.— The fol-\nlowing rules, from the Report of Lightning\nRod Conference, 1882, published by Messrs. E.\nF. N. Spon, have been abstracted under the","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0322.jp2"},"319":{"fulltext":"Lightning Rods.\n307\nLiniments.\ndirections of Major V. D. Majendie, H. M. Chief\nInspector of Explosives, and sent by the Explo-\nsives Department of the Home Office to the\noccupiers of factories, magazines, or stores of\nexplosive materials, and to the police authori-\nties. Reasons based on practical and theoretical\nevidence are given at length in the report for\neach rule and recommendation\n1. Material of Bod.— Copper, weighing not\nless than 6 oz. per foot run, the electrical con-\nductivity of which is not less than 90$ of that\nof pure copper, either in the form of rod, tape\nor rope of stout wires, no individual wire being\nless than No. 12 B. W. G. (0*109 inch). Iron\nmay be used, but should not weigh less than 2J4\nlb. per foot run.\n2. Joints.— Every joint, besides being well\ncleaned and screwed, scarfed or riveted, should\nbe thoroughly soldered.\n3. Form of Points.— The point of the upper\nterminal of the conductor should not have a\nsharper angle than 90°. A foot below the ex-\ntreme point a copper ring should be screwed\nand soldered on to the upper terminal, in which\nring should be fitted three or four sharp copper\npoints, each about 6 in. long. It is desirable\nthat these points should be so platinized, gilded\nor nickel plated as to resist oxidation.\n4. Number and Height of Upper Terminals.—\nThe number of conductors or upper terminals\nrequired will depend upon the size of the build-\ning, the material of which it is constructed, and\nthe comparative height above ground of the\nseveral parts. No general rule can be given\nfor this, except that it may be assumed that\nthe space protected by a conductor is, as a rule,\na cone, the radius of whose base is equal to the\nheight of the conductor from the ground.\n5. Curvatures.— The rod should not be bent\nabruptly round sharp corners. In no case\nshould the length of a curve be more than half\nas long again as its chord. A hole should be\ndrilled in string courses or other projecting\nmasonry, when possible, to allow the rod to\npass freely through it.\n6. Insulators.— The conductor should not be\nkept from the building by glass or other insula-\ntors, but attached to it by fastenings of the\nsame metal as the conductor itself is com-\nposed of.\n7. Fixing.— Conductors should preferentially\nbe taken down the side of the building which is\nmost exposed to rain. They should be held\nfirmly, but the holdfasts should not be driven\nin so tightly as to pinch the conductor or pre-\nvent contraction and expansion due to changes\nof temperature.\n8. Other Metal Work.— All metallic spouts,\ngutters, iron doors and other masses of metal\nabout the building should be electrically con-\nnected with the conductor.\n9. Earth Connection.— It is most desirable\nthat, whenever possible, the lower extremity\nof the coductor should be buried in perma-\nnently damp soil. Hence proximity to rain\nwater pipes and to drains or other water is de-\nsirable. It is a very good plan to bifurcate the\nconductor close below the surface of the\nground, and to adopt two of the following\nmethods for securing the escape of the light-\nning into the earth 1. A strip of copper tape\nmay be led from the bottom of the rod to a\ngas or water main— not merely to a leaden pipe\n—if such exist near enough and be soldered -to\nit. 2. A tape may be soldered to a sheet of cop-\nper, 3 ft. x 3 ft. x T a 6 in. thick, buried in per-\nmanently wet earth and surrounded by cinders\nor coke. 3. Many yards of copper tape may be\nlaid in a trench filled with coke, having not\nless than 18 square feet of copper exposed.\n10. Protection from Theft, etc.— In cases where\nthere is any likelihood of the copper being\nstolen or injured it should be protected by be-\ning inclosed in an iron gas pipe reaching ten\nfeet— if there is room— above ground and some\ndistance into the ground.\n11. Painting.— Iron conductors, galvanized or\nnot, should be painted. It is optional with cop-\nper ones.\n12. Inspection.— When the conductor is finally\nfixed it should, in all cases, be examined and\ntested by a qualified person, and this should be\ndone in the case of new buildings after all work\non them is finished.\nPeriodical examination and testing, should\nopportunities otter, are also very desirable,\nespecially when iron earth connections are\nemployed.\nLightning Rods, to Protect from Rust.— Three\nparts graphite with 12 parts sulphide of lead\nand 2 parts of sulphide of zinc. These are then\nEulverized and 45 parts linseed oil varnish,\neated, are added. The lightning rods for\nmetal roofs, etc., that are to be protected from\noxidation should then be painted with this.\nLightning Eradicator. See Cleans-\ning.\nLights, Colored. See Pyrotecliny.\nLignine.— (Woody Fiber.)— The fibrous part\nof wood and of the stalks and leaves of vege-\ntables. It remains when wood has been suc-\ncessively extracted with ether, alcohol, water,\ndilute acids, and dilute alkalies. y\nLima Wood.— A variety of soft red wood,\ngenerally considered superior to the ordinary\npeachwood, though less rich in coloring matter\nthan the Pernambuco variety. In its uses and\nproperties it agrees with Brazil wood.\nLime Wash (Colored).— Add to the lime\nwash a strong solution of sulphate of magnesia,\nand color to suit with Vandyke brown.\nLime Water.— To make lime water, agi-\ntate an ounce of pure caustic lime in a pint\nbottle nearly filled with water and after the\nlime has subsided decant the clear liquid. Keep\nin well stoppered bottle.\nLime, Vienna.— This is used for polishing.\nIt is prepared from dolomite. The dolomite is\nburned, slaked and glowed. For use rub the\narticles with alcohol and apply the lime. Keep\nthe lime in a well stoppered bottle.\nLinctus.— A medicine thick as honey, in-\ntended to be licked from a spoon.\nLinen, to Dye. See Dyeing.\nLinen, to Wash andiron. See Cleans-\ning. (Linen and Shirts,)\nLiniments and Embrocations.— These\nare fluid or semi-fluid preparations designed\nf or external use, and may be applied with gentle\nfriction with the hand, or by wetting lint or a\ncloth with them and laying them upon the\npart. It is generally well to cover them when\nthus applied, to prevent evaporation. The\nterm embrocation is applied to some of the\nmore liquid preparations of this class.\nCamphorated Liniment of Ammonia\n1. Oliveoil 3fl.oz.\nCamphor (cut small) oz.\nDissolve by a gentle heat, and when cold, add—\nAmmonia (0*960) 1 fl. oz.\nas before. Preferred in painful sprains, bruises,\nchilblains, etc., to the simple liniment.\nAnother good formula is—\n2. Soap liniment 2 fl. oz.\nOlive oil 2 fl. drm.\nAmmonia (0*960) 2fl. drm.\nMix.\nCamphor Liniment:\nCamphor 1 oz.\nOlive oil 4 fl. oz.\nDissolve by a gentle heat. As a friction, stim-\nulant, anodyne and resolvent in sprains,\nbruises, chilblains, rheumatic pains, glandular\nenlargements, etc.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0323.jp2"},"320":{"fulltext":"Linseed.\n308\nLiquors.\nCompound Camphor Liniment\nCamphor 2)4, oz.\nOil of lavender (English). 1 fl. drm.\nRectified spirit .17 fl. oz.\nDissolve, then add of\nAmmonia (0 882-0 880) 3 fl. oz.\nand shake them until mixed. It is powerfully\nstimulant, rubefacient and counter irritant. A\npiece of folded linen wetted with it applied to\nthe part, and then covered with a towel and\npressed with the hand, will generally relieve\nsuperficial pains. It is commonly sold for\nWard s Essence for the Headache.\nSoap Liniment Opodeldoc\nCastile soap (white; cut small) 2)4 oz.\nCamphor (small) 134 oz.\nOil of rosemary (English) 3 fl. drm.\nRectified spirit 18 fl. oz.\nDistilled water 2 fl. oz.\nMix, and digest with occasional agitation, at a\ntemperature not exceeding 70° F., until all are\ndissolved. The above proportions are those of\nthe new Br. Ph. The product is a very beauti-\nful article. That of the shops is usually very\nweak and inferior, being generally made with\ncrude soft soap and a mixture of equal parts\nof rectified spirit and water.\nLinseed Oil. See Oils.\nLinseed Meal l*oultice.— Linseed meal,\n4 oz.; olive oil, 3^fl. oz.; mix, and add, gradually\nand constanly stirring, of boiling water, )4 pt.\nThis is the formula of the new British Ph. Emol-\nlient, soothing and calefacient. Used to pro-\nmote the suppuration and ripening of tumors,\nto allay pain, inflammation, irritation, etc.;\napplied warm. This is the common emollient\nand suppurative poultice of both private and\nhospital surgeons.\nLint.— Next to cotton, the vegetable fiber\nmost extensively used for textile fabrics is\nflax, the Latin name of which is linum hence\ncome the names of linen and lint. The fibers\nof cotton and flax, viewed under a microscope,\nwill be found to be different; the fiber of cot-\nton is angular, or bladed, while that of flax\n(linen) is perfectly round and smooth. It is\nthis difference in their natural formation that\nconstitutes the superiority of linen over cot-\nton as a material for dressing wounds, or as a\nfabric, for clothing the body. Lint is the un-\nwoven fiber of linen. By wear, and much\nwashing, which it necessarily undergoes, linen\nbecomes softer than when new. It undergoes a\npartial decay, and the much prized linen even-\ntually becomes rag. In this state it is fit only\nto be converted into paper or lint. Lint is, in\nfact, the woolly fiber of old linen, thrown or\nslightly felted together (as manufacturers term\nit), into the material form so named. The flax\nplant yields not only linen by means of its\nfiber, but it also, by expression, gives a valua-\nble oil from its seeds, known in commerce as\nlinseed oil. The residue, after the oil is* ex-\npressed, is called linseed cake, and is excellent\nfood for cattle. Each product of the flax plant,\nboth in peace and in war, has its value either\nas linen, linseed, or lint.\nLipowitz s Alloy. See Alloys (Fu-\nsible).\nLip Salves. See Salves.\nLiquefaction.- Is the conversion of a solid\ninto the liquid state, either by heat (fusion), the\naDsorption of moisture from the air (deliques-\ncence), or by the action of some fluid (solution).\nCertain gases also may be liquefied by means\nof cold and pressure.\nLiqueurs (Fr.) See Liquors.\nLiquid Glues. See Glues,\nLiquid Measures. See Appendix.\nLiquors, Alkaline, to Remove Stains\ntrade by.— Try a little ammonia or the juice\nof a lemon. If the color is destroyed, nothing\ncan be done.\nLiquors (Liqueurs) and Cordials.\nMany of the following receipts for liqueurs and\ncordials come from the Brewer and Distil-\nler. By J. Gardner, F. C. S., but the majority\nof the receipts were specially translated from\nthe French.\nLiquors and cordials are stimulating bevera-\nges, formed of weak spirit, aromatized and\nsweetened. The manufacture of liqueurs con-\nstitutes the trade of the compounder, rectifier,\nor liqueurist.\nThe materials employed in the preparation of\nliquors or cordials are rain or distilled water,\nwhite sugar, clean flavorless spirit, and flavor-\ning ingredients. To these may be added the\nsubstances employed as finings, when artificial\nclarification is had recourse to.\nThe utensils and apparatus required in the\nbusiness are those ordinarily found in the wine\nand spirit cellar together with a copper still,\nfurnished with a pewter head and a pewter\nworm or condenser, when the method by distil-\nlation is pursued. A barrel, hogshead, or rum\npuncheon, sawn in two, or simply unheaded, as\nthe case may demand, forms an excellent vessel\nfor the solution of the sugar and two or three\nfluted funnels, with some good white flannel,\nwill occasionally be found useful for filtering\nthe aromatic essences used for flavoring. Great\ncare is taken to insure the whole of the uten-\nsils, etc., being perfectly clean, sweet, and well\nseasoned, in order that they may neither stain\nnor flavor the substances placed in contact\nwith them.\nFrench liqueurists dististinguish their li-\nqueurs as eaux and extraits, or liqueurs\nwhich, though sweetened, are entirely devoid\nof viscidity and baumes, cremes, and\nhuiles, which contain sufficient sugar to im-\npart to them a sirupy consistence usually\n■cremes contain less alcohol than huiles.\nThe French names are retained in the re-\nceipts. Where it is not possible to make the\nliquors by distillation, the receipts which say\nby essences should be chosen. O. p. means over\nproof, u. p. means under proof. (See Alcoliol.)\nThe abbreviations of the metric system should\nnot be forgotten, 1.= liter ;gr. gramme; k.=\nkilogramme. It should be remembered the art\nof the liquorist can only be obtained by long\npractice; still with ordinary care very good re-\nsults can be obtained. Do not get the liquors\ntoo aromatic. This is the fault of most ama-\nteurs. All liquors should be bottled and labeled\nwith neat labels, and the top sealed with wax or\ntinfoil.\nAbsinthe.— 1. From the tops of Absinthium\nmajus, 4 lb.; tops of Absinthium minus, 2 lb.;\nangelica root. Calamus aromaticus, Chinese\naniseed, and leaves of dittany of Crete, of each\n15 grn.; brandy or spirit at 12 u. p., 4 gal.; mace-\nrate for ten days, then add water, 1 gal.; distill\n4 gal. by a gentle heat, and dissolve in the dis-\ntilled spirit crushed white sugar, 2 lb.\n2. Spirit of wormwood, 172 parts best sugar,\n125 parts; orange flower water, 13)4 parts;\nwater, 125 parts. Dissolve the sugar in the\nwater, and then add the orange flower water\nthoroughly mix in the sirup the white of one\negg. Next add the wormwood spirit, and heat\nthe mixture very gently over a water bath, so\nas just to coagulate the albumen immediately\nremove the liquid from the fire and filter.\nCreme d Absinthe.— (By Essences.)— Essence\nabsinthe, 0*60 gr.; essence of English mint, 0 60\ngc; essence of anise, 3gr.; essence of fennel, 0 80\ngr.; alcohol, etc., same as Chartreuse.\nAbsinthe of Montpellier.—Jj rge absinthe\n(dried), k. 0 250 green anise, k. 0*600 fennel, k.\n0*400 coriander, k. 0 100; angelica seed, k. 0*50;\nalcohol at 85° 9*5 1. Digest the ingredients for\ntwelve hours with alcohol, then add 4*5 J. of\nwater, then distill 9 5 1. of perfumed spirit,\nColor as follows: dried hyssop (herb and flowers),\nk. 0*75 dried melisse (balm), k. 0*75 small ab-","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0324.jp2"},"321":{"fulltext":"Liquor*.\n309\nLiquor*.\nsinthe, k. 0*100. The small absinthe is broken\nin small pieces, the hyssop and melisse are re-\nduced to powder in a mortar. Digest the whole\nof the perfumed spirit at a low temperature.\nAllow it to cool. To this colored liquor add 5*5 1.\nof perfumed spirits, and reduce to 74° with 0 5\nI. of water to produce 10 liters of the product.\nAbsinthe of Lyons.— Large absinthe, dried,\n0*300 k.; green anise, 0.8 k.; fennel, 0*4 k.; an-\ngelica seeds, 0*050 k.: coloring, lemon balm, 0*1\nk.; dried absinthe (small), 0*1 k.; hyssop (herb\nand flowers) 0*05 k.; dried veronica, 05 k*\nAgeing Liquor.— Twenty lb. caustic soda at\n60° Tw., 20 lb. white arsenic in powder. Boil\nuntil all the arsenic is dissolved. Make a solution\nof 3 lb. of chlorate of potash in 4 gal. of water\nadd the first liquor until it stands at 28° Tw.\nAlkermes.— This liqueur is highly esteemed in\nsome parts of the South of Europe.\n1. Bay leaves and mace, of each 1 lb.; nut-\nmegs and cinnamon, of each 2 oz.; cloves 1 oz.,\nall bruised cognac brandy, 3J4 gal.; macerate\nfor three weeks, frequently shaking, then dis-\ntill over 3 gal., and add of clarified spirit of\nkermes, 18 lb.; orange flower water, 1 pt.; mix\nwell and bottle. This is the original formula\nfor the Alkermes de Santa Maria Novella,\nwhich is much valued.\n2. Spice as last; British brandy, 4 gal.; water,\n1 gal.; macerate as before, and drawover 4 gal.;\nto which add, of sirup, 2 gal., and sweet spirit\nof niter, 34 Pt. Cassia is often used for cinna-\nmon. Inferior to the last.\nAlkermes, de Florence. (By Essences.)— Ess. of\ncalamus, 0*30 gr.; ess. of cloves, 0*50 gr.; ess. of\nCeylon cinnamon, 0*20 gr.; ess. of roses, 0*40 gr.;\nextract of jasmine, 3 gr.; extract of anise, 3 gr.;\nalcohol, same as for chartreuse. Color with\ncochineal.\nCrime d Ananas.— Bananas, 800 gr.; alcohol,\n41. Crust and infuse the bananas for a week\nin alcohol, then pass the liqueur through a silk\nstrainer, pour melted sugar into 2*20 1. of water,\nadd 0*050 1. of an infusion of vanilla. Color yel-\nlow with caramel.\nAniseed Cordial.— 1. From aniseed, 2 oz., or\nessential oil, iy 2 dr., and sugar, 3 lb. per gal. It\nshould not be weaker than about 45 u. p., as at\nlower strengths it is impossible to produce a\nfull-flavored article without its being milky or\nliable to become so.\n2. Anisette de Bordeaux. 1. Foreign.— Ani-\nseed, 4 oz.; coriander and sweet fennel seeds,\nbruised, of each loz.; rectified spirit, y^ gal.;\nwater, 3 qts.; macerate for five or six days,\nthen draw over 7 pt., and add of lump sugar\n2^ lb.\n2. English.— Oil of aniseed, 15 drops; oil of\ncassia and caraway, of each 6 drops rub them\nwith a little sugar and then dissolve in spirit 45\nu. p., 3 qt., by well shaking them together;\nfilter, if necessary, and dissolve in the clear\nliquid, 1% lb. of sugar.\nAnisette. (By Essences.)— 1. Ess. Chinese (star)\nanise, 7 gr.; ess. anise, 2 gr.; ess. of fennel, 0*80\ngr.; ess. of coriander, 0 10 gr.; ess. of sassafras,\n0*60 gr.; extract of orris, 6 gr.; extract of am-\nbergris, 0*80 gr. Alcohol, etc., same as char-\ntreuse.\n2. Chinese anise, 5 gr.; essence anise, 2 gr.;\nessence of fennel, 060 gr.; essence of coriander,\n0*10 gr.; essence of sassafras, 0.40 gr.; extract of\norris, 4 gr.; extract of ambergris, 0*60 gr.; alco-\nhol, 85°, 3*20 1.; water, 3*90 1.; sugar, 4*375 k.\nAqua Reale.— Dissolve 2 fl. dr. oil of lemon;\n1V6 fl. dr. oil of orange peel 54 drops oil of cin-\nnamon; 60 drops oil of cloves; 60 drops oil of\nmace; 4 fl. dr. vanilla essence; V/% fl. dr. amber-\ngris essence. Dissolve 13 lb. sugar in 2 gal.\nwater, filter, and add to the above solution.\nArrack.— A spirituous liquor procured by dis-\ntillation from palm wine, or a fermented infu-\nsion of rice. It is imported from the East\nIndies, and much used to make punch. When\nsliced pineapples are placed in arrack, and the\nspirit kept for some time, it acquires a most\ndelicious flavor, and is thought to be un-\nrivaled for making nectarial punch.\nArrack, Factitious. Syn. Mock Arrack.\nVauxhall Nectar.— Prep. Dissolve 23 gr. flow-\ners of benzoin (benzoic acid) in 1 qt. good pale\nJamaica rum. Sold for arrack.\nBalm of Molucca— From, mace, 1 drm.; cloves,\ny% oz.; clean spirit, 22 u. p., 1 gal.; infuse\nfor a week in a well-corked carboy or jar,\nfrequently shaking, color with burnt sugar q.\ns., and to the clear tincture add 4 lb. of lump\nsugar; dissolve in pure soft water, J^ gal. On\nthe Continent this takes the place of the cloves\nof the English retailer.\nCrime des Barhades.—l. Lemons, sliced, 2 doz.;\ncitrons, sliced, y% doz.; fresh balm leaves, 8 oz.;\nproof spirit, 4 gal.; digest for a fortnight, then\nexpress the liquor, strain, and add 2 gal. each\nof clarified sirup and pure water.\n2. The fresh peels of 3 oranges and 3 lemons;\ncassia bruised, 4 oz.; mace, pimento, and cloves,\nof each 1 drm.; rum, at proof, 2j^ gal. digest as\nbefore, distill over 2 gal., and add clarified sirup,\n1 gal. If wanted weaker, lower with clear soft\nwater.\nCrime des Barbades.— Essence of cedrat, dis-\ntilled, 6 gr.; essence of Portugal, distilled, 3\ngr. essence of cinnamon, 0*40 gr. essence of\ncloves, 0*40 gr.; essence of nutmeg, 0*20 gr.\nBead for Liquors.— Oil of vitriol, 2 oz.; sweet\noil, 1 oz.; mixed in a glass bottle. One drop for\n1 qt. of liquor.\nBenedictine.— Cloves, 2 gr. nutmegs, 2 gr.;\ncinnamon, 3 gr. balm, peppermint, freshly-\ngathered angelica and genepi of the Alps, 25\ngr. calamus, 15 gr., cardamom (small), 50 gr.;\narnica flowers, 8 gr. Break and crush the\nmaterials and macerate for 2 days in 4 1. of\nalcohol at 85°. Distill after having added 3 1.\nof water and draw out 4 1., after which add a\ncold sirup made with 4 k. of sugar and 2 1. of\nwater. Bring up to 10 1., color, and filter.\nBitters.— These have generally from 1 to 1)4\nlb. of sugar per gal. See Bitters in General\nAlphabet.\nBrandy.— Barrels, to give the Appearance of\nAge to.— Dissolve in 3 gal, water, 3 lb. sulphuric\nacid and 1 lb. sulphate of iron. Wash the bar-\nrels with it on the outside.\nApple, Imitation.— Forty gal. cologne spirit,\n4 oz. apple brandy oil, cut in 1 pt. alcohol, 88$;\n6 oz. D. B. glycer ne; )4 ah sugar sirup. No\ncoloring.\nBlackberry.— Forty gal. cologne spirit, 6 oz.\nblackberry oil, 2 gal. blackberry or cherry\njuice, y% Pt- xt blackberry, and 4 oz. sugar\ncoloring, to color.\nBrandy, British.— Syn. Malt Brandy.— For a\nlong time this liquor was distilled from spoiled\nwine and the dregs of wine, both British and\nforeign, mixed with beer bottoms, spoiled\nraisins, and similar substances. At the present\nday, spirit made from malt, potatoes, beet root\nand carrot is employed. Malt spirit is the best\nadapted for the manufacture of British brandy.\nWe annex formulas\n1. To 12 gal. of malt spirit at proof, add of\nwater, 5 gal.; crude red tartar or winestone,\npreviously dissolved in 1 gal. of boiling water,\nlb.; acetic ether, 6 fl. oz.; French wine vine-\ngar^ qt.; French plums, bruised, 5 lb.; sherry\nbottoms, Y% gal.; mix these ingredients in a\nsherry or French brandy cask, and let them\nstand for about a month, frequently stirring\nthe liquid with a stick; next draw over\n15 gal. of the mixture from a still furnished\nwith an agitator. Put the distilled spirit into a\nclean, fresh emptied cognac brandy cask, and\nadd of tincture of catechu, 1 pt.; oak shavings,\n1 lb.; and spirit coloring, pt.; agitate occa-\nsionally for a few days, and then let it repose\nfor a week, when it will be fit for use. This\nproduces 15 gal. of brandy, 17 u. p. Age greatly\nimproves it.\n2. Malt spirit, 99 gal.; red tartar dissolved in\nwater, 7 lb.; acetic ether, y z gal.; wine vinegar,","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0325.jp2"},"322":{"fulltext":"Liquors,\n310\nLiquors.\n5 gal.; bruised raisins or French plums, 14 lb.;\nbitter almond cake bruised and steeped for\ntwenty-four hours in twice its weight of water,\nwhich must be used with it, 34 lb.; water, q. s.;\nmacerate as before, and draw over, with a\nquick fire, 120 gal. To the distilled spirit add a\nfew lb. of oak shavings, 2 lb. of powdered\ncatechu made into a paste with hot water, and\nspirit coloring, q. s. and finish as in the last.\nProduces 120 gal. of spirit, fully 17 u. p. Equal\nin quality to the last.\n3. Clean spirit, 17 u. p., 100 gal.; nitrous ether,\n2 qt.; ground cassia buds, 4 oz.; bitter almond\nmeal, 5 oz.; sliced orris root, 6; oz. cloves, in\npowder, 1 oz.; capsicum, 1% oz.; good vinegar,\n3 gal.; brandy coloring, 3 pt.; powdered\ncatechu, 2 lb.; full flavored Jamaica rum, 2 gal.\nMix in an empty cognac piece, and macerate\nfor a fortnight, with occasional stirring. Pro-\nduces 106 gal., at 21 or 22 u. p.\n4. Malt spirit, 17 u. p., 100 gal.; catechu, 2 lb.;\ntincture of vanilla, }4 pt-; burnt sugar coloring,\n1 qt.; good rum, 3 gal.; acetic or nitrous ether,\n2 qt. Mix as the last.\n5. Clean spirit, 17 u. p., 89 gal.; highly\nflavored cognac, 10 gal.; oil of cassia, 2 drm.;\noil of bitter almonds, 3 drm.; catechu, in pow-\nder, 1 lb.; cream of tartar, previously dissolved\nin water, 134 lb.; concentrated acetic acid, y%\ngal.; sugar coloring, 2 to 3 pt.; good rum, 1 gal.\nTo those of the above mixtures which are\nsubmitted to distillation, the French brandy\ncoloring substance and catechu must be added\nafter, not before, distillation.\nCalifornia.— Forty gal. cologne spirit 4 oz.\nhusk essence; 34 ounce light oil of vine; J^ pal-\nlargonic ether; 3 lb. wine sirup. Color with\nFrench brandy coloring.\nBrandy, Caraway.— A species of cordial com-\nmonly prepared as follows: 1. Bruised cara-\nway seeds, 4 oz.; lump sugar, 2 lb.; British\nbrandy, 1 gal.; macerate a fortnight, occasion-\nally shaking the bottle.\n2. Sugar, 1 lb.: bruised caraways, 1 oz.; 3 bit-\nter almonds, grated; spirit coloring, 1 oz.; plain\nspirit or gin, 22 u. p., y% gal. Infuse, etc., as\nbalm of Molucca. The coloring is sometimes\nleft out.\nCatawba. Forty gal. cologne spirit 6 oz.\ncatawba brandy oil, and 2 lb. wine sirup cut in\n1 qt. alcohol, 88$. Color with French brandy\ncoloring.\nCherry.— Forty gal. cologne spirit 6 oz.\ncherry brandy oil cut in 1 pt. alcohol, 88$ 2\ngal. cherry juice; 1 qt. sugar sirup; 1 pt. cherry\nextract, and 4 oz. sugar coloring, to color.\nBrandy, Cherry. 1. Brandy and cherries\ncrushed, of each 1 gal.; let them lie together\nfor 3 days, then express the liquid and add 2 lb.\nlump sugar; in a week or two decant the clear\nportion for use.\n2. To the last add 1 qt. raspberry juice, and\npt. orange flower water.. Both the above are\nexcellent.\n3. Molasses, 1 cwt.; spirit, 45 u. p., 41 *gal.;\nbitter almonds bruised, 1 lb., more or less to\ntaste: cloves, 1 oz.; cassia, 2 oz.; macerate a\nmonth, frequently stirring. An article fre-\nquently sold as cherry brandy.\n4. German cherry juice, 15 gal.; pure rect.\nspirit, 20 gal.; sirup, 5 gal.; oil of bitter almonds,\n1 drm.\n5. Mash 8 lb. black cherries, without being\nstoned, 10 qt. 95$ alcohol. Macerate for 2\nweeks; press; add 5 lb. sugar dissolved in 2 gal.\nbrandy.\nBrandy, Cider.— From cider and perry; also\nfrom the marc of apples and pears fermented.\nIt is very largely manufactured in the United\nStates and Canada.\nBrandy, Bantzic. From rye, ground with\nthe root of Calamus aromaticus. It has a\nmixed flavor of orris and cinnamon.\nGinger. Forty gal. cologne spirits; 1*4 lb.\nginger brandy oil; 14 gal. sugar sirup; 6 oz.\nsugar coloring.\nBrandy, Lemon.— 1. Fresh lemons, sliced, 1\ndoz.; brandy, 1 gal.; macerate for a week, press\nout the liquid, and add of lump sugar, 1 lb.\n2. Proof spirit, 7 gal.; essence of lemon, 3\ndrm.; sugar, 5 lb.; tartaric acid, 1 oz.; dissolved\nin water; 2 gal. turmeric powder; of spirit col-\noring, a dessertspoonful; macerate, etc., as\nNo. 1. Sometimes boiling milk is added to the\nabove, in the proportion of 1 qt. to every gal.\nBrandy, Malt. Malt spirit, flavored with\nsweet spirits of niter and terra japonica, and\ncolored with molasses, or spirit coloring. See\nBrit. Brandy.\nNew York Brandy.— Forty gal. cologne spi-\nrit or good rectified spirits 2 oz. New York\nbrandy essence, 1 oz. prussic ether, dissolved in\n1 pt. alcohol, 88$. To improve, add 1^ pt.\nsugar sirup. Color with sugar coloring.\nOrange Brandy.— To every 3^ gal. of brandy\nallow Mpt. of Seville orange juice, 134 lb. loaf\nsugar. To bring out the full flavor of the\norange peel, rub a few lumps of the sugar on 2\nor 3 unpared oranges, and put these lumps\nto the rest. Mix the brandy with the orange\njuice, strained, the rinds of six of the oranges,\npared very thin, and the sugar. Let all stand in\na closely covered jar for about three days, stir-\nring it three or four times a day. When clear it\nshould be bottled and close corked for a year;\nit will then be ready for use, but will keep any\nlength of time. This is a most excellent stom-\nachic when taken pure in small quantities; or,\nas the strength of the brandy is very little\ndeteriorated by the other ingredients, it may\nbe diluted with water. To be stirred every day\nfor three days. Sufficient to make 2 qts.; make\nthis in March.\nBrandy, Orange.— As lemon brandy, but sub-\nstituting oranges.\nBrandy, Pale.— This article has been already\nreferred to. That of the ginshops and publi-\ncans is generally a spurious article, made by\nmixing together about equal parts of good\nbrown French brandy, clean alcohol and soft\nwater, and allowing the whole to stand un-\ntil the next day to fine down.\nBrandy, Patent.— This is merely very clean\nmalt spirit mixed with about one-seventh or\nless of its bulk of strongly flavored cognac and\na little coloring.\nBrandy, Peach.— From peaches, by fermenta-\ntion and distillation. Much used in the United\nStates. A cordial spirit under the same name\nis prepared as follows\n1. From peaches, sliced and steeped in twice\ntheir weight of British brandy or malt spirit,\nas in making cherry brandy.\n2. Bitter almonds bruised, 3 oz.; proof spirit,\n10 gal.; water, 3 gal.; sugar, 5 or 6 lb.; orange\nflower water, 3^pt.; macerate for fourteen days.\nAdd brandy coloring, if required darker.\n3. Dissolve 1 gal. of honey in water, add 7 gal.\nof alcohol, 1 gal. rum, 2 oz. of catechu bruised,\n2 oz. acetic ether; add ]4 lb. of bitter almonds;\ndissolved, 20 gal. water.\n4. Peach.— Forty gal. cologne spirit 34 lb.\npeach brandy oil 6 oz. glycerine: )4 gill sugar\nsirup. No coloring.\nRaspberry.— 1. Pour as much brandy over\nraspberries as will just cover them; let it stand\nfor twenty- four hours, then drain it off and re-\nplace it with a like quantity of fresh spirit;\nafter twenty-four hours more, drain this off\nand replace it with water lastly, drain well\nand press the raspberries quite dry. Next add\nsugar to the mixed liquors, in the proportion\nof 21b. to every gal., along with 34 pt. of orange\nflower water.\n2. Mix equal parts of mashed raspberries and\nbrandy together, let them stand twenty-four\nhours, then press out the liquor. Sweeten as\nabove and add a little cinnamon and cloves, if\nagreeable; lastly, strain.\n3. From raspberries, using the proportion\ngiven under cherry brandy. Sometimes a lit-\ntle cinnamon and cloves are added. The only\naddition, however, that really improves the","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0326.jp2"},"323":{"fulltext":"Iaquors.\n311\nLiquors.\n-flavor or bouquet is a little orange flower;\nwater, a very little essence of vanilla, or a sin-\ngle drop of essence of ambergris.\nBrandy, Shrub.— Brandy, 1 gal.; orange and\nlemon juice, of eachl pt.; the peel of 2 oranges;\ndo. of 1 lemon; digest for twenty-four hours,\nstrain and add of white sugar, 4 lb., dissolved in\nwater, 5 pts. After a fortnight decant the clear\nliquid for use.\nCaraway Cordial.— This is generally made\nfrom the essential oil of caraway, with 2% lb.\nof sugar per gal. One fl. drm of the oil is com-\nmonly reckoned equal to 34 lb. of the seed,\nThe addition of a very little oil of cassia and\nabout half as much of essence of lemon or of\norange improves It.\nCreme de Cassis.— Infusion of currants, 4 20\n1.; spirit of raspberries, 0*50 1.; alcohol, at 85°,\n0 60 1.; white sugar, 5 k. water, 1*60 1.\nCreme de Celeri.— Essence of celery, 2 gr.;\nalcohol, 310 1.; water, 3*90 1.; sugar, 4 375 k.\nCedrat Cordial.— From essence (oil) of cedrat,\n34 oz.; pure spirit (at proof), 1 gal.; dissolve,\n.add of water, 3 pt., agitate well; distill 3 qt.,\nand add an equal measure of clarified sirup. A\ndelicious liqueur. See Creme and Eau, further\n•on.\nChartreuse.\nIngredients.\nChina cinnamon\nMace\nLemon balm, dried\nHyssop in flower\ntops\nPeppermint, dried\n-Thyme\nBalsime (bal. major),\nGenepi\nArnica, flowers of\nBalsam poplar, buds.\nAngelica, seeds\nAngelica, roots\nCoriander\nCloves\nAloes, socotrine\nCardamom, small\nNutmegs\nCalamus\nTonka beans\nAlcohol, at 85°\nWhite sugar\nGreen. Yellow. White.\n1-50 gr.\n1-50 gr.\n50 gr.\n25 gr.\n25 gr.\n3 gr.\n12-50 gr.\n25 gr.\n1 gr.\n1-50 gr.\n12-50 gr.\n6-25 gr.\n1 50 gr. 12-50 gr.\n1 50 gr. 3 gr.\n1 25 gr. 25 gr.\n12-50 gr. 13-50 gr.\ni i\n12-50 gr.\n1-50 gr.\n6-25 1.\n2-50 k.\n12-50 gr.\n3gr.\n150 gr.\n1-50 gr.\n•3gr.\n5 gr,\n4-25 1.\n2-50 k.\n12-50 gr.\n12-50 gr.\n3gr.\n3 gr.\n3 gr.\n1-50 gr.\n30 gr.\nI M) gr.\n5-25 1.\n3-75 k.\nDigest in alcohol for twenty-four hours.\nDistill so as to obtain, nearly all the spirit. Re-\npeat the operation, if necessary, or add water\nto make 10 1. Color, and after reposing, fil-\nter.— H.\nChartreuse, by Essences.— Essence of lemon\nbalm, 0*20 gr.; essence of hyssop, 0*20 gr.; essence\nof Angelica, 1 gr.; essence of English mint, 2\ngr.; essence of Chinese cinnamon, 0*20 gr.;\nessence of cloves, 0 20 gr.; essence of nutmegs,\n20 gr. Color yellow or green. Alcohol (85°),\n3 1.; sugar, 5*6 k.; water, 2*6 1.; for 10 1.\nGrande Chartreuse.— This renowned liqueur,\nmade by the monks of the Monastery of the\nGrande Chartreuse, near Grenoble, is said to\nhave the following composition; Essence of\nbalm (flavored with lemon), 31 grn.; essence of\nhyssop, 31 grn.; essence of angelica, 23^ drm.;\nessence of English peppermint, 5 drm.; essence\nof nutmeg, 36 grn.; essence ot cloves, 31 grn.;\nrectified alcohol, 3J/2 pt.; sugar, q. s.; the whole\nbeing colored yellow or green, according to\ntaste. Another writer states that it is com-\nposed of carnations, wormwood and the young\nbuds of the pine tree, and that there are three\nkinds— white, yellow and green, each differing\nin strength.\nCherry Cordial.— Mix 234 lb. cherry juice with\n1% qt. alcohol, 80$. Add 8 drops oil of cloves, y%\nlb. sugar, 1% qt. water. Filter.\nCinnamon Cordial.— I. Proof spirits, 9 gal.;\nessential oil of cinnamon (cut in 1% qt. alcohol).\n3 drm.; clear soft water, 43^ gal.; simple sirup,\n2% gal. Agitate thoroughly and color if de-\nsired.\n2. This is seldom made with cinnamon, owing\nto its high price, but either with the essential\noil or bark of cassia, with about 2 lb. of sugar\nto the gal. It is preferred colored, and therefore\nmay be very well prepared by simple digestion.\nThe addition of 5 or 6 drops each of essence of\nlemon and orange peel, with about a spoonful\nof essence of cardamoms per gal., improves it.\nOne oz. oil of cinnamon is considered equal\nto 8 lb. of the buds or bark. One fl. drm. of the\noil is enough for 2% gal. It is colored with\nburnt sugar.\nCordial, Citron.— 1. Yellow rind of citron, 3\nlb.; orange peel, 1 lb.; nutmegs bruised, 2 oz.;\nproof spirit, 13 gal.; distill or macerate, add\nwater sufficient and 2 lb. of fine lump sugar for\nevery gallon of the cordial.\n2. From the oil or peel, with 3 lb. of sugar per\ngal., as above.\n3. Binds of yellow citrons, 3 lb.; orange peel,\nlb.; bruised nutmegs, 1% oz.; proof spirits, 9\ngal. Digest for twelve days, filter and add\nclear soft water, 4V£ gal.; simple sirup, 2| gal.\nAgitate. Color if desired.\nCitronelle. Syn. Eau de Barbades.— 1. From\nfresh orange peel, 2 oz.; fresh lemon peel, 4 oz.;\ncloves, drm.; corianders and cinnamon, of\neachl drm.; proof spirit, 4 pt.; digest for ten\ndays; then add of water, 1 qt., and distill ]4,\ngal.; to the distilled essence add of white sugar,\n2 lb.; dissolved in water, 1 qt.\n2. Essence of orange, y% drm.; essence of\nlemon, 1 drm.; oil of cloves and cassia, of each\n10 drops; oil of coriander, 20 drops spirit, 58\no. p., 5 pt.; agitate till dissolved, then add of\ndistilled or clear soft water, 3 pt.; well mix, and\nfilter it through blotting paper, if necessary.\nLastly, add of sugar dissolved in water, q. s.\nClair et. Rossolis des Six Graines.— 1. From\naniseed, fennel seed, coriander seed, caraway\nseed, dill seed and seeds of the candy carrot\nAthamantia cretensis (Linn.), of each bruised,\n1 oz.; proof spirit, gal.; digest for a week,\nstrain, and add of loaf sugar, 1 lb., dissolved in\nwater, q. s.\n2. Eau-Clairette.— Another very old French\nform was, 3 oz. cinnamon, eau de vie, 1 pt.,\nto which was added sugar and rose water.\nCordial, Clove.— 1. Bruised cloves, 1 oz., or es-\nsential oil, 1 drm., to every 4 gal. proof spirit.\nIf distilled it should be drawn over with a\npretty quick fire. It is preferred of a very\ndeep color, and is therefore strongly colored\nwith poppy flowers or cochineal, or more com-\nmonly with brandy coloring, or red sanders\nwood. It should have 3 lb. of sugar to the gal.,\nand this need not be very fine. The addition of\n1 drm. of bruised pimento, or 5 drops of the\noil for every oz. of cloves improves this cor-\ndial.\n2. Proof spirits, 9 gal.; essential oil of cloves\n(cut in alcohol), 1J drm.; clear soft water, 43*£\ngal.; simple sirup, 3 gal. Color dark with\nsugar coloring. Agitate thoroughly.\nCoffee Liqueur\nGround roasted coffee 112 parts.\nDiluted spirit 450 parts.\nDigest, express and filter. To 300 parts of the\nfiltered liquid add—\nTincture of vanilla 5 parts.\nDiluted spirit 150 parts.\nSimple sirup 225 parts.\n—Pharm.Zeit.\nCognac— Forty gal. good spirits, distilled or\nrectified; 6 oz. oenantic ether; 1 oz. cognac\nbrandy oil, dissolved in 1 qt. alcohol, 88$; 13^\nlb. wine sirup. Color with sugar coloring.\nColoring for Liqueurs.— Red: Cudbear, 400\ngr.; alcohoi, 85° 1 1. Macerate for five days,\nstirring frequently. Decant the liquid, treat\nthe residue in the same manner, unite the two\nliquids and filter.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0327.jp2"},"324":{"fulltext":"Liquors.\n312\nLiquors.\nYellow Color.— Saffron, 100 gr.; water, 1*5 1.\nBoil half the water and pour on the saffron.\nCover tightly and macerate until the infusion\nis cold. Repeat the operation on the residue\nand mix the two liquids. Add 750 c. c. of alcohol\nat 85° and filter.\nBest white crushed or lump sugar, 6 lb.;\nwater, Pt. Boil until black. Remove from\nthe fire, cool with water, stirring as the water\nis added. Used to color liquors from a light\namber to a dark brown. For brandy, whisky,\nold rye, etc.\nRed Color.— Beet root, red sanders, or coch-\nineal.\nPort Wine Color.— Extract of rhatany.\nThe substances employed in France to color\nliqueurs are, for\nBlue. Sulphate of indigo, nearly neutralized\nwith chalk and the juice of blue flowers and\nberries.\nAmber, Fawn and Brandy Color.— Burnt\nsugar or spirit coloring.\nGreen.— Spinach or parsley leaves digested in\nspirit and mixtures of blue and yellow.\nRed.— Powdered cochineal or Brazil wood,\neither alone or mixed with a little alum.\nViolet. Blue violet petals, litmus, or extract\nof logwood.\nPurple.— The same as violet, only deeper.\nYellow.— An aqueous infusion of safflower or\nFrench berrjes and the tinctures of saffron and\nturmeric.\nCordial.— Aromatized and sweetened spirit,\nemployed as a beverage. Cordials are prepared\nby either infusing the aromatics in the spirit and\ndrawing off the essence by distillation, which is\nthen sweetened, or without distillation, by\nflavoring the spirit with essential oils, or simple\ndigestion on the ingredients, adding sugar or\nsirup as before. Malt or molasses spirit is the\nkind usually employed, and for this purpose\nshould be perfectly flavorless, as, if this be not\nthe case, the quality of the cordial will be in-\nferior. Rectified spirit of wine is generally the\nmost free from flavor, and when reduced to a\nproper strength with water, forms the best and\npurest spirit for cordial liquors.\nCoriander Cordial.— From coriander seeds, as\nCloves. A few sliced oranges improve it.\nCreme d Anis. As Aniseed cordial, only\nricher.\nCreme des Barbades.— As Citronelle, adding\nsome of the juice of the oranges and an addi-\ntional pound of sugar per gallon.\nCreme de Cacao. Infuse roasted Carac s\nnuts cut small, 1 lb., and vanilla, y oz.,\nin brandy, 1 gal., for eight days; strain and add\nof thick sirup 3 qt.\nCreme de Cedrat.— Huile de Cedrat. From\nspirit of citron, 1 pt.; spirit of cedrat, 1 qt.;\nproof spirit, 3 qt.; white sugar, 16 lb.; dissolved\nin pure soft water, 2 gal.\nCreme de Genepi des Alpes.— Genepi in flower,\n200 gr.; peppermint flowers, 100 gr.; balsam, 100\ngr.; angelica root, 50 gr.; galanga, 12*5 gr.; alco-\nhol at 85°, 4*25 1., white sugar, 3*75 k. General\nmethod, color green. Product 10 liters.\nCrime de Macarons.—l. From cloves, cinna-\nmon and mace, of each, bruised, 1 drm.; bitter\nalmonds, blanched and beaten to a paste, 7 oz.;\nspirit, 17 u. p., 1 gal.; digest a week, filter and\nadd of white sugar, 6 lb., dissolved in pure\nwater, 2 qt.\n2. Clean spirit, at 24 u. p., sp. gr. 0*945, 2 gal.;\nbitter almonds, lb.; cloves, cinnamon and\nmace, of each in coarse powder, 1*4 drm.; in-\nfuse for ten days, filter, and add of white\nsugar, 8 lb., dissolved in pure water, 1 gal.;\nlastly, give the liqueur a violet tint with infu-\nsion or tincture of litmus and cochineal. An\nagreeable, nutty flavored cordial, but, from\ncontaining so many bitter almonds, should\nonly be drunk in small quantities at a time.\nThe English use only one-half the, above quan-\ntity of almonds.\nCreme de Naphe.— From, sweetened spirit 60\nu. p., containing 3J^ lb. of sugar per gal., 7 qt.;\nforeign orange flower water, 1 qt. Very de-\nlicious.\nCreme de Noyeau. See Noyeau.\nCreme d 1 Orange.— From sliced oranges, 3 doz-\nen; rectified spirit, 2 gal.; digest for fourteen\ndays; add, of lump sugar, 28 lb., previously dis-\nsolved in water, 4J^ gal.; tincture of saffron,\n1)4, A- oz.; and orange flower water, 2 qt.\nCreme de Portugal.— Flavored with lemon, to\nwhich a little oil of bitter almonds is added.\nCuracoa From sweetened spirit, at 56 u. p.,\ncontaining 2 lb. of sugar per gal., flavored\nwith a tincture made by digesting the oleo-\nsaccharum prepared from Seville oranges, nine\nin number; cinnamon, 1 drm.; and mace,\ndrm. in rectified spirit, 1 pt. It is colored\nby digesting in it for a week or ten days,,\nBrazil wood in powder, 1 oz and afterward\nmellowing the color with burnt sugar, q. s.\nCuracoa {by Essences).— Essence of curacoa,\ndistilled, 7 gr.; essence of Portugal, 2*50 gr.; es-\nsence of cloves, 5 gr. Bitter infusion of cura-\ncoa, q. s.; alcohol, 3 10 1.; water, 3*90 1.; sugar,\n4*375 k.\nDelight of the Mandarins.— From spirit, 22 u.\np., 1 gal.; pure soft water, gal.; white sugar\ncrushed small, 4^ lb.; Chinese aniseed and am-\nbrette or musk seed, of each, bruised, }4 oz.;\nsafflower, J4 oz.; digested together in a carboy\nor stone bottle capable of holding double, and\nagitated well every day for a fortnight.\nEau de Cedrat.— Syn. cedrat water. As creme\nde cedrat, but using less sugar.\nEau de Chasseurs. See Peppermint.\nEau de Vie d 1 Andeye.— Syn Eau de vie d anis\naniseed liqueur brandy; liqueur d hendaye.\nFrom brandy or proof spirit, 1 gal.; sugar,\nlb.; dissolved in aniseed water, 1 pt. This is\nsometimes flavored with fennel.\nEau d or Liqueur.— Put in a jar 1 oz. of cori-\nander seeds, oz. of cinnamon, }4 oz. of cloves,\n1 qt. of spirit of wine registering 60° by Gay\nLussac s alcoholometer. Let the spices steep\nfor twenty-four hours, then add 3 gills of sirup\nregistering 24° on the saccharometer and filter\nthe whole three times through a felt filtering-\nbag; add 2 sheets of gold leaf to the liqueur;\nshake it to divide the gold and bottle it.\nEau de Vie de Dantzich (by Essences).— Essence\nCeylon cinnamon, 40 grn.; essence China cinna-\nmon, 1*20 grn.; essence of coriander, 0*20 grn\nessence of lemon (distilled), 0*80 grn.; alcohol,\netc., the same as curacoa.\nEau de Vie de Dantzick.— Ceylon cinnamon,\n25 grn.; cloves, 1*5 grn.; green anise, 12*5 grn.;\ncelery seeds, 12*5 grn.; caraway seeds, 12*5 grn.;\ncumin seeds, 3 grn.; alcohol at 85°, 5 1.; white\nsugar, 2*5 k. General method without rectifi-\ncation. Product, 10 1.\nFining for Cordials (Eggs).— Take the white of\nan egg with each 5 gal. of the cordial, beat up\nwith alcohol and add gradually to the cordial.\nFining with Potash.— For each 10 gal. of the\ncordial add 1 oz. of potassium carbonate dis-\nsolved in 1 pt. of water, add gradually.\nGin.— I. Clean corn spirit, at proof, 80 gal.;\nnewly rectified oil of turpentine, 1 pt.; mix\nwell by violent agitation, add culinary salt, 7\nor 81b., dissolved in Avater, 30 or 40 gal.; again\nwell agitate and distill over 100 gal., or until the\nfeints begin to rise. Product— 100 gal., 22 u. p.,\nbesides 2 gal. contained in the feints. If 100\ngal., 17 u. p., be required, 85 gal. of proof spirit,\nor its equivalent at any other strength, should\nbe employed.\n2. Proof spirit, as above, 8 gal.; oil of turpen-\ntine, lto 1J4 oz.; salt, lib., dissolved in water, 3\nor 4 gal.; draw 10 gal., as before. 22 u. p.\n3. Clean corn spirit, 80 gal.; oil of turpentine,\nto 1 pt.; pure oil of juniper, 1 oz. to 3 oz.;\nsalt, 7 1b.; water, 35 gal., draw 100 gal. as above.\n22 u. p.\n4. To the last add oil of caraway, )4 oz., oil of\nsweet fennel, 34 oz.; distill as before.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0328.jp2"},"325":{"fulltext":"Liquors.\n313\nLiquors.\n5. To No. 3 add essential oil of almonds, 1 drm.,\nor less; essence of lemon, 3 or 4 drm. distill as\nbefore.\n6. To No. 1 add creosote, lto2 drm., before\ndistillation.\n7. To No. 3 add creosote, 1 to 2 drm., before\ndistillation.\n8. Proof spirit, 80 gal.; oil of turpentine,\npt. oil of juniper, 3 oz.; creosote, 2 drm.;\noranges and lemons, sliced, of each 9 in\nnumber, macerate for a week, and distill 100 gal.\n22 u. p.\nThe oil of turpentine for this purpose should\nbe of the best quality, and not that usually-\nvended for painting, which contains resin and\nfixed oil. Juniper berries, bitter almonds, and\nthe aromatic seeds, may be used instead of the\nessential oils; but the latter are most conven-\nient. Turpentine conveys a plain gin flavor,\ncreosote imparts a certain degree of smokiness,\nlemon and other aromatics a creaminess,\nfullness, and richness. Gin may also be pre-\npared by simple solution of the flavoring in\nthe spirit, but is of course better for distilla-\ntion.\nSweetened gin is made from unsweetened\ngin, 22 u. p., 95 gal.; lump sugar, 40 to 45 lb.,\ndissolved in clear water, 3 gal.; mix well, and\nfine it down as above. Produces 100 gal., at 26\nu. p. This, as well as the last, is usually per-\nmitted at 22 or 24 u. p., which is also done when\nthe gin has been further lowered with water so\nto be even 30 or 35 u. p.— Brewer and Distiller.\nGold Cordial.— From angelica root, sliced, 1\nlb.; raisins, lb-; coriander seeds, 2 oz.; cara-\nway seeds and cassia, of each V/% oz.; cloves,\noz.; figs and sliced licorice root, of each 4 oz.;\nproof spirit, 3 gal.; water, 1 gal.; digest 2 days,\nand distill 3 gal. by a gentle heat; to this add, of\nsugar, 9 lb., dissolved in rose water and clean\nsoft water, of each 1 qt.; lastly, color the liquid\nby steeping in it 1*4 oz. of hay saffron. This\ncordial was once held in much esteem for its\nsupposed medicinal virtues, the formula being\nmentioned by Arnold de Villeneuve. It de-\nrives its name from a small quantity of gold\nleaf being formerly added to it, which was sup-\nposed to add greatly to its remedial value. Un-\ntil comparatively recent years, gold was credi-\nted with extraordinary remedial powers.\nCordial, Gout. Rhubarb, senna, coriander\nseed, sweet fennel seed, and cochineal, of each 2\noz.; licorice root and saffron, of each loz.; rai-\nsins, 2% lb.; rectified 90$ alcohol, 2 gal.; digest\nfor fourteen days. Used in gout and rheu-\nmatism.\nHollands.— Geneva, Schiedam, Hollands Gin,\nDutch Gin.— 1. The materials employed in the\ndistilleries of Schiedam, in the preparation of\nthis excellent spirit, are 2 parts of the best un-\nmalted rye and 1 part of malted bigg, reduced\nto the state of coarse meal by grinding. About\na barrel (36 gaL) cf water, at a temperature of\nfrom 162° to 168° Fah., is put into the mash tun\nfor every lV£cwt. of meal, after which the malt\nis introduced and stirred, and lastly, the rye is\nadded. Powerful agitation is next given to\nthe magma till it becomes quite uniform, when\nthe mash tun is covered over with canvas, and\nleft in this state for two hours. Agitation is\nthen again had recourse to, and the transpar-\nent spent wash of a preceding mashing is add-\ned, followed by as much cold water as will re-\nduce the temperature of the whole to about 85°\nFah. The gravity of the wort at this point\nvaries from 33 to 38 lb. A quantity of the best\npressed Flanders yeast, equal to 1 lb. for every\n100 gal. of the mashed materials, is next stirred\nin, and the whole is fermented in the mash tun\nfor about three days, or until the attenuation\nis from 7 to 4 lb. (sp„ gr. 1-007 to 1*004). During\nthis time the yeast is occationally skimmed off\nthe fermenting wort. The wash, with the\ngrains, is then transferred to the still, and con-\nverted into low wines. To every 100 gal. of this\nliquid, 2 lb. of juniper berries (three to five\nyears old), and about 1 lb. of salt, are added,\nand the whole is put into the low wine still, and\nthe fine spirit drawn off by a gentle heat, one\nreceiver only being employed. The product\nper quarter varies from 18 to 21 gal. of spirit, 2\nto 3 o. p.\n2. Best Hollands.— Hollands rectified to the\nstrength of 24° Baume (sp. gr. 0*9125, or about 6\no. p.).\n3. Dr. Thompson gives the following formu-\nla for preparing gin, Geneva or Hollands. He\nstates it is one used by the Dutch manufactur-\ners: One hundred and twelve lb. of barley\nmalt and 228 lb. of rye meal are mashed with\n460 gal. of water, at 162° Fah. After infusing a\nsufficient time, cold water is added until the,\ngravity of the wort is reduced to 45 lb. per bar-\nrel. The whole is let into a fermenting back at\n80° Fah., }4 a gal. yeast is added, the tempera-\nture rises to 90°, and the fermentation is over\nin forty-eight hours. The wash is attenuated\nuntil the specific gravity is about 12 or 15 lb.\nper barrel. Both the wash and grains are then\nput into the still; the low wines are distilled off,\nthese are redistilled, and the production is rec-\ntified. A f ew juniper berries and some hops\nare used to commuicate a peculiar flavor to the\nspirit.\n4. English made. From juniper berries (at\nleast a year old and crushed in the hands), 31b.;\nrectified spirit, 1% gal. (or proof spirit, 2^ gal.);\ndigest, with agitation, for a week, and tnen\nexpress the liquid after twenty-four hours\nrepose, decant the clear portion, add it to good\ncorn spirit, at 2 or 3% over proof, 90 or 100\ngal.; and mix them well together.\n5. From juniper berries, 2\\i, lb.; sweet fennel\nseed, 5 oz.; caraway seeds, 3J4 oz.; proof spirit,.\n2 gal., corn spirit, 90 or 100 gal.\n6. As the last, with the addition of Strasburg\nturpentine or Canadian balsam, 1 lb.— Brewer\nand Distiller.\nHuile d Anis. See Crime d Anis.\nHuile d Annanas.—Five oz. rasped pineapple\nare macerated in 15 oz. 90$ alcohol for fifteen\nor twenty days, at the end of which time the\nliquid is decanted and filtered. It is then well\nshaken up with 15 oz., by weight, of clear sirup.\nHuile Liqueureuse.—l. De la Rose. From eau\nde rose, 1 part; simple sirup, 2 parts; mixed to-\ngether.\n2. Des Fleurs d Orange.— From orange flower\nwater and sirup, as No. 1.\n3. De Vanille.— From essence of vanilla, 1\ndrm.; simple sirup, 1 pt.\nThe above are kept in small decanters, and\nused to flavor water, grog, liqueurs, etc., instead\nof sugar or capillaire; also to perfume the\nbreath. Other flavored sirups, for the same\npurpose, are prepared in a similar manner.\nHuile de Vanille.— Flavored with essence or\ntincture of vanilla. It is kept in a decanter*\nand used to flavor liqueurs, grog, etc.\nHuile de Venus.— From the flowers of the wild\ncarrot, 2% oz., and sugar, 3 lb. to the gal. It is\ngenerally colored by infusing a little powdered\ncochineal in it.\nLiqueur Hugienique de Dessert (formula Ros-\npail.)— Alcohol at 56°, 0*10 1.; angelica root, 3 gr.;,\ncalamus, 0*20 1. myrrh, 0*20 gr.; cinnamon, 0*20;\naloes, 0 20 gr.; cloves, 0*10 gr.; vanilla, 010 gr.;\ncamphor, 0*050 gr.; white nutmegs, 0*025 gr.; saf-\nfron, 0*005 gr. The whole mixture is allowed to\ndigest for several days in the sun in a well\ncorked bottle.\nJargonelle.— Sun- Jargonelle Cordial. Flavored\nwith essence of jargonelle pear (acetate of amy!).\nPineapple cordial and liqueurs from some other\nfruits are also prepared from the artificial fruit\nessences.\nKirschwasser. A spirituous liquid distilled in\nGermany and Switzerland from bruised cher-\nries. From the rude manner in which it is ob-\ntained, and from the distillation of the cherry\nstones (which contain prussic acid) with the\nliquid, it has often a nauseous»taste, and is f re-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0329.jp2"},"326":{"fulltext":"Liquor*.\n314\nLiquors.\nquently poisonous. When properly made and\nsweetened it resembles noyeau.\nHuile de Kirschenwasser. Essence of noyaux,\n4 gToi essence of neroli (Paris), 0*40 gr.\nLemon Cordial.— Digest fresh and dried lemon\npeel, of each 2 oz., and fresh orange peel, 1 oz.,\nin proof spirit, l gal., for a week; strain with\nexpression, add of clear soft water q. s. to re-\nduce it to the desired strength, and lump sugar,\n3 lb. to the gal„ The addition of a little orange\nflower or rose water improves it.\nJessamine Liqueur.— Pick M lb. of jessamine\nblossoms, and put them in a jar with 2 qt. of\nW% alcohol, registering 50° by Gay Lussac s\nalcoholometer; let the blossoms steep for two\ndays; prepare 1)4 pt. of clarified sirup register-\ning 30° on the saccharometer. Strain the jes-\nsamine spirit, mix it with the cold sirup and\nfilter it, with some paper, through a filtering\nbag. Continue pouring the liqueur through\nand through until it is quite clear, and bottle it\nfor use.\nLemon Cordial— Digest 2 oz. each of fresh\nand dried lemon peel and 1 oz. of fresh orange\npeel in 1 gal. of proof spirit for a week; strain\nwith expression, add clear soft water to reduce\nit to the desired strength, and lump sugar, in\nthe proportion of 2)4 lb. to 3 lb. to the gal. The\naddition of a little orange flower or rose water\nimproves it.\nEssence of Lemon. The rinds of 80 fresh\nlemons; alcohol at 85°, 12 1. Process the same as\ncedrat.\nEssence of Lemon, Concentrated.— Binds of 160\nfresh lemons; alcohol, same as above. Process\nsame as cedrat.\nLiqueurs.— Dilute alcohol, aromatized and\nsweetened. The French liqueurists are pro-\nverbial for the superior quality, creamlike\nsmoothness and delicate flavor of their cor-\ndials.\nLiquodilla. Flavored with oranges and\nlemons, of each, sliced, 3 in number; with sugar\n2)4 lb. per gal.\nLovage Cordial. From the fresh roots of\nlovage, 1 oz. to the gal. A fourth of this quan-\ntity of the fresh roots of celery and sweet fen-\nnel are also commonly added. In some parts a\nlittle fresh valerian root and oil of savine are\nadded before distillation. This cordial is much\nvalued by the lower classes in some of the\nprovinces for its stomachic and emmenagogue\nqualities.\nMaraschino (Marasequin) —A delicate liqueur\nspirit distilled from a peculiar cherry growing\nin Dalmatia, and afterward sweetened with\nsugar. The best is from Zara, and is obtained\nfrom the marasca cherry only. In the middle\nof the last century the profits arising from the\nsale of this compound were so considerable that\nthe Senate of Venice, where it was principally\nmanufactured, monopolized the trade in it.\nAn inferior quality is distilled from a mixture\nof cherries and the juice of licorice root.\nMaraschino (Zara), Imitation. Essence of\nnoyaux, 3 5 gr.; essence of neroli, 0*50 gr.; ex-\ntract of jasmine, 1 grn.; extract of vanilla, P50\ngr.\nMarasquin de Zara.— Essence of noyaux, 3 5\ngr.; essence of neroli, 0*5 gr.; extract of jas-\nmine, 1 gr. extract of vanilla, 1*5 gr.; al-\ncohol, etc., same as for chartreuse.\nCrime deMilleUeurs.— Essence of neroli, 5gr.;\n•essence of roses, 20 gr.; extract of jasmine, 2\ngr. extract of jonquil, 1 5 gr. extract of\nreseda, 2 gr. extract of tuberose, 2 gr. al-\ncohol, etc., same as for chartreuse.\nMint Liqueur (Creme de Menthe).— Put 2 oz.\nof green mint into a jar, pour over 1 qt. of\n•90# alcohol, registering 50° by Gay Lussac s\nalcoholometer, and let it steep for eight days;\nadd 3 gills of sirup registering 30° on the sac-\ncharometer, mix it with some filtering paper\nand pour the whole into a filtering bag. When\nthe liqueur is thus strained it should be per-\nfectly clear and limpid; bottle it and keep the\nbottles in a dry place.\nMint Cordial. Oil of peppermint, )4 oz.;\nsirup, 2}4 pt.; rectified spirits, 5 pt.; alcohol, )4\npt. Color light green.\nNectar.— The fabled drink of the mythologi-\ncal deities. The name was formerly given to\nwine dulcified with honey it is now occasion-\nally applied to other sweet and pleasant bever-\nages of a stimulating character. The following\nliqueur is so called Chopped raisins, 2 lb.; loaf\nsugar, 41b.; boiling water, 2 gal.; nix and stir\nfrequently until cold, then add 2 lemons, sliced;\nproof spirit, brandy or rum, 3 pt.; macerate in\na covered vessel for six or seven days, occa-\nsionally shaking next strain with pressure,\nand let the strained liquid stand in a cold place\nfor a week to clear; lastly, decant the clear\nportion and bottle it.\nNoyau.— Creme de Noyou.— This is a pleasant\nnutty-tasted liquor; but, from the large pro-\nportion of prussic acid which it contains, it\nshould be partaken of very moderately.\n1. Bitter almonds, bruised, 3 oz.; spirit, 22 u.\np., 1 qt.; sugar, 1 lb. (dissolved in) water, pt.;\nmacerate for 10 days, frequently shaking the\nvessel; then allow it to repose for a few days,\nand decant the clear portion.\n2. As the last, but substituting apricot or\npeach kernels with the bruised shells for the\nalmonds.\n3. To either of the above, add of coriander\nseed and ginger, of each, bruised, 1 drm.; mace\nand cinnamon, of each y% drm.\n4. Creme de Noyau de Martinique.— Loaf su-\ngar, 24 lb.; water 2}4 gal.; dissolve, add, of proof\nspirit, 5 gal.; orange flower water, 3 pt.; bitter\nalmonds, bruised, 1 lb.; essence of lemons, 2\ndrm.\nOil of Cedrat. See Creme de Cedrat.\nOrange Cordial. Like lemon cordial or\ncreme d orange, from fresh orange peel, )4 lb.\nto the gal.\nOrange Peel, Essence of.— Golden.— Fresh yel-\nlow rind of orange, 4 oz.; rectified spirit, i*£ pt.;\nwater, )4 Pt.; digest for a week, press, filter\nand add of sherry 1 qt. A pleasant liqueur.\nParfait Amour.— Perfect Love.— 1. Flavored\nwith the yellow rind of 4 lemons and a tea-\nspoonful of essence of vanilla to the gal., with\nsugar, 3 lb., and powdered cochineal, q. s. to\ncolor.\n2. Sugar, 8)4 lb.; 9Q£ alcohol, 5J4 lb., dis-\nsolved in 6 lb. water; essence of cloves, 1J4 oz.;\nessence of mace, 3 drm.; essence of lemon, 1\ndrm.; colored rose.\nPeach Cordial.— Pour 3)4 gal. alcohol. 90$, Tr.\nover 2 lb. sliced peaches. Digest from 8 to 10\ndays. Filter and add 3 gal. white wine, 15)4 lb.\nsugar dissolved in 3)4 qt. water.\nPeppermint. Peppermint Cordial Sports-\nman s Cordial; Eau de Chasseurs.— This well-\nknown compound is perhaps in greater demand\nin every part of the kingdom than all the\nother cordials put together. 1. From pepper-\nmint water and gin or plain spirit, 22 u. p., of\neach 1 pt.; lump sugar, lb.\n2. Wholesale.— English oil of peppermint, 5\noz., is added to rectified spirits of wine, 3 pt.;\nand the mixture is agitated well together for\nsome time in a corked bottle capable of hold-\ning 4 pt. or more; it is then emptied into a cask\nhaving a capacity of upward of 100gal.,and86\ngal. of perfectly white and flavorless proof\nspirit is poured in, and the whole well agitated\nfor ten minutes; a solution of the best double\nrefined lump sugar, 2% cwt., in about 35 gal.\npure filtered rain water, is then added, and the\ncontents of the cask well rummaged up in the\nusual manner for at least fifteen minutes; suffi-\ncient clear rain water to make up the whole\nquantity to exactly one hundred gallons, and\nholding in solution 5 oz. alum, is next added,\nand the whole is again well agitated for at least\na quarter of an hour, after which the cask is\nbunged down, and allowed to repose for a fort-\nnight before it is broached for sale.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0330.jp2"},"327":{"fulltext":"Liquors,\n315\nLiquors.\n3. Pure proof spirits, W% gals.; essential oil of\npeppermint, 1*4 drm., cut first in 1J4 qt. strong-\nalcohol; pure soft water, 7^ gal.; simple sirup,\n2y 2 gal. Agitate, and if not clear add ty 2 drm.\nalum dissolved in 1J4 pt. rain water. Let it\nstand 10 days.\nPeppermint Water.— Pepperment flowers, 1\nk.; water, 4 1.; salt, 250 grammes; macerate,\nand draw off 2 liters.\nPimento.— Syn. Pimento Cordial, Pimento\nDram. Rather strongly flavored with allspice\nor pimento. It has obtained a great repute in\nthe West Indies in diarrhoea, cholera, and bowel\ncomplaints generally.\nPineapple Cordial.— Pineapple extract, 3 oz.;\nextract of lemon, oz.; sirup, V/o, gal.; recti-\nfied spirits, 2J4 gal.\nPineapple Liqueur.— Take ]4 lb. of peeled\npineapple, and cut it into slices boil 3 qt. of\nsirup until it registers 38° on the saccharome-\nter; add the slices of pineapple, the juice of 4\n•oranges and the yellow peel of 2 oranges let it\nboil up, and pour the whole into a jar. Close\nthe jar caref uhy, and let the pineapple infuse\nthus for two days. Strain the sirup through a\nhair sieve, mix with 1 qt. of 90% alcohol regis-\ntering 35° by Gay Lussac s alcoholometer, and\nfilter the whole through a felt filtering bag\nBottle the liqueur, and keep in a dry place.\nQuince Liqueur.— Grate a sufficient quantity\n•of quinces over a basin to obtain 2 lb. of pulp\nadd 1 qt. of sirup registering 30° on the saccha-\nrometer; cover the basin, and let it remain\nthus for one day. Pour the contents of the\nbasin into a filtering bag, add 1 pt. of 90% alco-\nhol, registering 35° by Gay Lussac s alcoholo-\nmeter, to the strained sirup mix, and pour the\nwhole again through a filtering bag and bottle\nthe liqueur.\nRaspberry Cordial. From raspberry brandy,\nsirup, and water, equal parts. A similar arti-\ncle is prepared by flavoring sweetened spirit\nwith the artificial raspberry essence.\nRatafia. Originally a liqueur drunk at the\nratification of an agreement or treaty. It is\nnow the common generic name in France of\nliqueurs compounded of spirit, sugar, and the\nodoriferous and flavoring principles of vegeta-\nbles, more particularly of those containing the\njuices of recent fruits, or the kernels of apri-\ncots, cherries, or peaches. In its restricted\nsense this name is commonly understood as re-\nferring to cherry brandy or peach brandy.\nThe following list includes those ratafias\nwhich are commonly prepared by the French\nliquerists\nRatafia d 1 Angelique From angelica seeds, 1\ndr.; angelica stalks, 4 oz.; blanched bitter al-\nmonds, bruised, 1 oz.; proof spirit or brandy,\n6 qt.; digest for 10 days, filter; add, of water, 1\nqt.; white sugar, 3^ lb.; mix well, and in a fort-\nnight decant the clear portion through a piece\nof clean flannel.\nRatafia d Anis. See Aniseed Cordial.\nRatafia de Baume de Tolu.— From balsam of\ntolu, 1 oz.; rectified spirit, 1 qt.; dissolve, add\nwater, 3 pt.; filter, and further add of white\nsugar, iy 2 lb.\nRatafia deBrou de Noix— From young wal-\nnuts with soft shells pricked or pierced, 60 in\nnumber brandy, 2 qt.; mace, cinnamon, and\ncloves, of each 15 gr.; digest for 8 weeks press,\nfilter, add of white sugar, 1 lb., and keep it for\nsome months before decanting it for use.\nRatafia de Cacao.— Ratafia de Chocolat.—\nFrom Caracca cacao nuts, 1 lb.; West Indian\n•cacao nuts, y 2 lb., both roasted and bruised;\nproof spirit, 1 gal.; digest for 14 days, filter, and\nadd, of white sugar, 2J/£ lb.; tincture of vanilla,\nYz dr. (or a shred of vanilla maybe infused with\nthe nuts in the spirit instead) lastly, decant in\na month, and bottle it.\nRatafia de Cafe.— I. From coffee, ground and\nroasted, 1 lb.; brandy or proof spirit, 1 gal.;\nsugar, 2 lb. dissolved in water, 1 qt.; as last.\n2. Coffee, 1 lb.; brandy, 6*4 lb.; macerate the\ncoffee in the brandy for seven or eight days,\nand then distill over a water bath, and to the\ndistillate add a very clear sirup, made by dis-\nsolving 2J/£ lb. of the best sugar in 4 lb. of water.\nThis liqueur has all the aroma and none of the\nbitterness of the coffee.\nRatafia de Cassis.— From black currant juice,\n1 qt.; cinnamon, 1 dr.; cloves and peach kernels,\nof each, y 2 dr.; brandy, 1 gal.; white sugar, 3\nlb.; digest for a fortnight, and strain through\nflannel.\nRatafia de Cerise.— From. Morello cherries,\nwith their kernels, bruised, 8 lb.; brandy or\nproof spirit, 1 gal.; white sugar, 2 lb.; as last.\nRatafia de Chocolat. Ratafia de cacao (see\nante).\nRatafia de Coings.— From quince juice, 3 qt.;\nbitter almonds, 3 dr.; cinnamon and coriander\nseeds, of each, 2 dr.; mace, y% dr.; cloves, 15 gr.,\nall bruised rectified spirit, quite flavorless, y%\ngal.; digest for a week, Alter, and add of white\nsugar, 3)4 lb.\nRatafia de Coings (Quinces).— Expressed juice\nof ripe quinces, 0*6 1.; spirit of cloves, 0 05 1.; al-\ncohol, at 0 85°, 2*51.; sugar, 1*25 k.; water, 61.;\ncolor yellow with caramel.\nRatafia de Creme.— From creme de noyeau\nand sherry, of each J4 pint sirup, y 2 pt.; fresh\ncream, 1 pt.; beaten together.\nRatafia de Curacoa. See Curagoa.\nRatafia de Framboises.— Raspberry Cordial.\nTo 1J4 lb. of raspberry juice add J4 lb. of cherry\njuice; boil this with 2 lb. of sugar add 4 pt. of\nbrandy, and let it macerate for a fortnight;\nfilter.\nRatafia de Framboises (Raspberries). Infusion\nof raspberries, 3 1.; infusion of wild cherries, 1\n1.; alcohol, 85°, 1 1.^ sugar, 5 k.; water, P601.\nRatafia de Genievre.— From juniper berries,\neach pricked with a fork, J4 lb.; caraway and\ncoriander seed, of each, 40 gr.; finest malt spirit,\n22 u. p., 1 gal.; white sugar, 2 lb.; digest a week,\nand strain with expression.\nRatafia de Grenoble.— From the small wild\nblack cherry with the kernels bruised, 2 lb.;\nproof spirit, 1 gal.; white sugar, 3 lb.; citron\npeels, a few grains, as before.\nRatafia de Grenoble, de Teyssere. From cher-\nries bruised with the stones, 1 qt.; rectified\nspirit, 2 qt.; mix, digest for forty-eight hours,\nthen express the liquid, and heat it to boiling\nin a close vessel; when cold, add of sugar or\nsirup, q. s., together with some noyeau, to fla-\nvor, and a little sirup of the bay laurel, and of\ngalangal; in three months decant and bottle it.\nRatafia de Noyeau. From peach or apricot\nkernels, bruised, 120 in number; proof spirit or\nbrandy, 2 qt.; white sugar, 1 lb.; digest for a\nweek, press and filter.\nRatafia d CE illets. —From clove pinks, without\nthe white buds, 4 lb.; cinnamon and cloves, of\neach, 15 gr.; proof spirit, 1 gal.; macerate for\nten days, express the tincture, filter, and add\nof white sugar, 2y% lb.\nRatafia d Ecorced Orange. Creme d Orange.\nRatafia d Fleurs d* Orange.— From fresh orange\npetals, 2 lb.; proof spirit, 1 gal. white sugar,\n2^1b.; as last. Instead of orange flowers, 1 dr.\noil of neroli may be used.\nRatafia a la Provencale.— From striped pinks,\n1 lb.; brandy or proof spirit, 1 qt.; white sugar,\nlb.; juice of strawberries, M Pt-; saffron, 20\ngr.; as before.\nRatafia des Quatre Fruits.— From cherries, 30\nlb.; gooseberries, 15 lb.; raspberries, 8 lb.; black\ncurrants, 7 lb.; express the juice, and to each\npint add, of white sugar, 6 oz.; cinnamon, 6 gr.;\ncloves and mace, of each, 3 gr.\nRatafia Rouge.— From the juice of black cher-\nries, 3 qt.; juices of strawberries and raspberries,\neacn, 1 qt.; cinnamon, 1 dr.; mace and cloves,\nof each, 15 gr.; proof spirit or brandy, 2 gal.;\nwhite sugar, 7 lb.; macerate, etc., as before.\nRatafia Sec— Take of the juice of gooseber-\nries, 5 pt.; juices of cherries, strawberries,","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0331.jp2"},"328":{"fulltext":"Liquor*.\n316\nIiitliofracteur.\nand raspberries, of each, 1 pt.; proof spirit, 6\nqt.; sugar, J lb.; as before.\nRatafia a la Violette.—From orris powder, 3\noz.; litmus, 4 oz.; rectified spirit, 2 gal.; digest\nfor ten days, strain, and add of white sugar, 12\nlb., dissolved in soft water, 1 gal.\nRhubarb Cordial.— Rinse gently 40 lb. best\nquality of rhubarb stalks in a 15 or 20 gal. tub.\nAdd 4 gal. water, stir and squeeze the pulp with\nthe hands so as to separate the juice. Let it\nrest for a few hours, strain, and press through\na coarse cloth. The residue may have 1 gal.\nmore of water pressed through it. Add 30 lb.\nloaf sugar, and after its solution, water to make\nit up to 10m gal. Put in a tub covered with a\nblanket and some boards at 55° to 60° F. until it\nbegins to ferment. Then put into a cask, a\nportion at a time, as its working decreases\nuntil aU is in. Let the scum as it works run\nout of the bung hole. When nearly through\nfermenting drive the bung, put in a spile, which\nis to be removed every few days until the barrel\nis sale from bursting. Use more or less sugar\naccording to the strength and sweetness de-\nsired.\nRose Cordial.-— Extract of rose, l oz.; sirup,\n2 qt.: rectified spirit, 3 qt.\nRosolL— Hose ieaves, 8% oz.; orange flower\nwater, 4 pt.; Ceylon cinnamon, 124 gr.; cloves, 1\noz.; macerate the rose leaves, the cinnamon, and\nthe cloves in 17^ pt. spirit, and distill; and to the\ndistillate add 15 oz. of sugar dissolved in 4 pt.\norange flower water.\nRosolio de Turin.— Essence of anise, 2*50 gr.;\nessence of fennel, 0*30 gr.; essence of bitter al-\nmonds, 3 gr.; essence of roses, 0*60 gr.; essence\nof ambergris, 0 40 gr. Color with cochineal.\nShrub. See Shrub.\nSighs of Love—1. From proof spirit (flavored\nwith otto of roses) and sirup in equal parts.\n2. From sugar, 6 lb.; pure soft water, q. s. to\nproduce 1 gal. sirup, to which add, of eau de\nrose, 1 pt.; proof spirit, 7 pt. It is colored a\npale pink by powdered cochineal. A very\npleasant cordial. A drop or two, not more, of\nessence of ambergris or vanilla improves it.\nStraioberry Cordial.— 1. Proof spirit, 634 gal.\nstrawberries, 10 qt.; digest for ten days, and\ndraw off; add soft water, 3% gal.; simple sirup,\n234 gal. Agitate, and color if desired.\n2. Juice of fresh strawberries, 1J4 pt.; sirup, 3\nqt.; rectified spirit, 3 qt. Color with liquid\ncarmine, q s.\nTears of the Widow of Malabar— As balm of\nMolucca, but employing cloves bruised, y% oz.;\nmace shredded. 1 dr., and a teaspoonful of es-\nsence of vanilla for flavoring; 34 pt. of orange\nflower water is sometimes added. It is slightly\ncolored with burnt sugar.\nTrappistine Large absinthe, 40 gr.; angelica,\n40 gr.; mint, 80 gr.; cardamom, 40 gr.; balm, 30\ngr.; myrrh. 20 gr.; calamus, 20 gr.; cinnamon,\n4 gr.; cloves, 4 gr.; mace, 2gr.; alcohol at 85°,\n4 51.; white sugar, 3*750 k. Follow the method\ngiven for chartreuse. After two days of mac-\neration, distill and rectify. Add sirup and\ncolor green or yellow.\nUsquebaugh.— Syn. Escubac. Literally, mad\nwater, the Irish name of which whisky is a\ncorruption. It is applied to a strong cordial\nspirit, much drank in Ireland, and made in the\ngreatest perfection at Drogheda.\n1. Brandy or proof spirit, 3 gal.; dates with-\nout their kernels and raisins, of each, bruised,\n34 lb.; juniper berries, bruised, 1 oz.; mace and\ncloves, of each, oz.; coriander and aniseed, of\neach, 34 oz.; cinnamon, 34 oz.; macerate, with\nfrequent agitation, for fourteen days, then fil-\nter and add of simple sirup, 1 gal.\n2. Pimento and caraways, of each 3oz.; mace,\ncloves and nutmegs, of each 2 oz.; aniseed, cori-\nanders and angelica root, of each 8 oz.; raisins,\nstoned and bruised, 14 lb.; proof spirit, 9 gal.;\ndigest as before, then press, filter or clarify and\nadd of simple sirup, q. s. Should it turn milky,\nadd a little strong spirit or clarify it with alum\nor filter through magnesia.\nUsquebaugh is either colored yellow with\nsaffron (about 34 oz. per gal.), or green with\nsap green (about 34 oz. per gal.); either being\nadded to the other ingredients before macera-\ntion in the spirit.\nVanilla Liqueur.— Two sticks of vanilla, 3 pt.\nof brandy or proof gin, 1 lb. of sugar. Break\nup the vanilla into the spirit, cork and let it\ninfuse a fortnight. Boil the sugar in a quart\nof water to a clear sirup, then pour in the spirit\nand vanilla and simmer 10 minutes. Filter and\nbottle.\nVanilla Cordial- -Put 134 oz. of vanilla beans\nin 3 qts. alcohol and 134 gallons of water. Mace-\nrate for a few days, then distill. Add to this 11\nlbs. of sugar. After it is dissolved, color with\ncochineal and filter.\nHuile de Vanille.— Infusion of vanilla, 0 80 1.;\nalcohol, at 85°, 2.401.; white sugar, 4 35k.; water,\n3-9 1.\nVermouth.— As the celebrated Vermouth de\nTurin cannot be made in this country to ad-\nvantage, the receipt of Ollivero is given. Cor-\niander, 500 gr.; rinds of bitter oranges, 250 gr.;\norris root, powdered, 250 gr.; elder flowers,\n200 gr.; red cinchona, 150 gr.; calamus, 150 gr.;\nlarge absinthe, 125 gr.; holy thistle {Centaur -ea\nbenedicto), 125 gr.; elecampane (roots), 125 gr.;\nlittle centuary, 125 gr.; germander, 125 gr.;\nChinese cinnamon, 100 gr.; angelica (roots), 65\ngr.; nutmegs, 50 gr.; galanga, 50 gr.; cloves,\n50 gr.; cassiae, 30 gr.; white wine of Picardy,\n100 1. Digest for five or six days, draw off the\nliquor, size with fish glue, and allow to stand\nfor fifteen days.\nVermouth au Madere.— Large absinthe, 125 gr.;\nangelica roots, 60 gr.; holy thistle, 125 gr.; burg-\nwort, 125 gr.; veronica, 125 gr.; rosemary, 125 gr.;\nrhubarb, 30 gr.; red cinchona, 200 gr.; orris root,\npowdered, 250 gr.; infusion of curacoa, 25 centi-\nliters; common Madeira wine, 92 1.; raisin sirup,\n3 1.; cognac at 40°, 5 1. Digest for three days,\ndraw off the clear, size with fish sounds; after\neight days of rest, rock and size again before\nbottling.\nVespetro by Essences.— Essence of anise, 3 gr.;\nessence of caraway, 2 gr.; essence of fennel, 0*60\ngr.; essence of coriander, 0 80 gr.; essence of\nlemon, distilled, 1 gr.; alcohol at 85°, 2 80 1.;\nwater, 6*60 1.; sugar, 2 50 k.\nWhisky, Bourbon, Imitation of.—l. Nine gal.\nof proof spirit, 1 gal. Bourbon highly flavored,\n1 qt. malt whisky, 1 gill white vinegar, 1 gill\nsirup and 10 to 20 minims of cognac oil dis-\nsolved in alcohol. Color with the aid of cara-\nmel.\n2. Forty gal. rectified whisky; 134 oz. Bour-\nbon oil dissolved in 1 pt. alcohol, 88$; 1 pt. white\nsugar sirup.\n3. Irish.— Forty gal. rectified whisky; 4 to 6\noz. Irish whisky oil, dissolved in 1 pt. alcohol,\n88$ 1 lb. double refined glycerine.\n4. Monongahela.— Forty gal. rectified whisky;\n134 oz. Monongahela oil, dissolved in 1 pt. alco-\nhol, 88$; I pt. white sugar.\n5. Rye.— Forty gal. rectified whisky; 134 oz.\nrye oil, dissolved in 1 pt. alcohol 88$ 1 pt. white\nsugar sirup.\n6. Scotch.— Forty gal. rectified whisky 4 to 6\noz. Scotch whisky oil, dissolved in 1 pt. alcohol\n88 1 lb. double refined glycerine.\n7. Wheat.— Forty gal. rectified whisky; 134 oz.\nwheat whisky oil, dissolved in 1 pt. alcohol,\n188$; 34 oz. malt oil; 1 lb. double refined glycer-\nine.\nLisbon Water. See Waters.\nLitharge. Lead monoxide or plumbic\noxide. It is used in the manufacture of glass\nand for many other purposes. It is a heavy\nyellow powder; it melts at a red heat. It is\nsometimes called massicot.\nLithofracteur.— Composed of 52 parts of\nnitro-glycerine, 30 parts of infusorial earth,\n12 parts of coal, 4 parts of saltpeter, 2 parts of\nsulphur.\nLithographic Crayons. See Crayons.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0332.jp2"},"329":{"fulltext":"Lithographic.\n317\nLubricants.\nLithographic Ink. See Inks.\nLithographic Paper. See Paper.\nLithographic Stones, to Prepare.—\nStones are prepared for chalk drawings by\nrubbing- two together, with a little silver sand\nand water between them, taking- care to sift\nthe sand to prevent any large grains from\ngetting in, by which the surface would be\nscratched. The upper stone is moved in small\ncircles over the under one till the surface of\neach is sufficiently even, when they are washed,\nand common yellow sand substituted for the\nsilver sand, by which means is procured a finer\ngrain. They are then again washed clean, and\nwiped dry. It will be found that the upper\nstone is always of a finer grain than the under\none. To prepare stones for writing or ink\ndrawings, they are rubbed with brown sand,\nwashed, and powdered pumice stone used in-\nstead; the stones are again washed, and each\npolished separately with a fine piece of pumice\nstone or water Ayr stone. Chalk can never be\nused on the stones prepared in this manner.\nThe same process is followed in order to clean\na stone that has already been used.\nLithography, Varnishes for. See\nVarnishes.\nLithophanie.— The name given to porce-\nlain biscuit ware. It is much used to make\ntransparencies. The peculiarity of the manu-\nfacture consists in having the biscuit of differ-\nent thicknesses. The thickest parts intercept\nthe light and form the shadows, while the thin\nforms the high lights.\nLitmus JSoluti on. —Digest 1 gramme solid\nlitmus in 50 c.c. of water, filter and apply to\nunsized paper. Change the color if desired.\nLitmus Paper. See Paper, Test.\nLixiviation.— The process by which the\nsaline matter of such materials as ashes, min-\nerals, etc., is extracted by the aid of water.\nThis solution is called a lye and sometimes a\nlixivium.\nLoam. —Mixture of brick, clay and old\nfoundry sand.\nLogwood.— The most important of the dye\nwoods obtained from Hasmatoxylum campe-\nchianum, a large tree growing on the coasts\nof the bays of Honduras and Campeachy, and\nin some of the Antilles, e. g., Jamaica and St.\nDomingo. The Campeachy growth is generally\npreferred.\nLotions. See Cosmetics.\nLubricants. See also Oils.\nGeneral Information on Lubricants.— The gen-\neral experience gained of various oils used for\nlubricating tends to the following results: 1.\nA mineral oil flashing below 300° F., 149° C, is\nunsafe, on account of causing Are.\n2. A mineral oil evaporating more than 5% in\nten hours at 140° F., 60° C, is inadmissible, as\nthe evaporation creates a viscous residue, or\nleaves the bearing dry.\n3. The most fluid oil that will remain in its\nplace, fulfilling- other conditions, is the best for\nall light bearings at high speeds.\n4. The best oil is that which has the greatest\nadhesion to metallic surfaces and the least co-\nhesion in its OAvn particles. In this respect fine\nmineral oils are first, sperm oil second, neats-\nfoot oil third, lard oil fourth.\n5 Consequently the finest mineral oils are\nbest for light bearings and high velocities.\n6. The best animal oil co give body to fine\nmineral oils is sperm oil.\n7. Lard and neatsf oot oils may replace sperm\noil when greater tenacity is required.\n8. The best mineral oil for cylinders is one\nhaving sp. gr. 0 893 at 60° F., 15^° C; evaporat-\ning point 550° F., 288° C, and flashing point\n680° F., 360° C.\n9. The best mineral oil for heavy machinery\nhas sp. gr. 0-880 at 60° F., 15J^° C; evaporating\npoint 443° F., 229° C, and flashing point 518° F M\n269° C.\n10. The best mineral oil for light bearings and\nhigh velocities has sp. gr. 0*871 at 60° F., 15J^° C;\nevaporating point 424° F., 218° C, and flashing\npoint 505° F., 262° C.\n11. Mineral oils alone are not suited for the\nheaviest machinery, on account of want of\nbody and higher degree of inflammability.\n12. Well purified animal oils are applicable to\nvery heavy machinery.\n13. Olive oil is foremost among vegetable oils,\nas it can be purified without the aid of mineral\nacids.\n14. The other vegetable oils admissible, but\nfar inferior, stated in their order of merit, are\ngingelly, ground nut, colza, and cottonseed\noils.\n15. No oil is admissible which has been puri-\nfied by means of mineral acids.\nLubricants for Machinery, etc.—l. Common\nheavy shop and engine oils are commonly vari-\nable mixtures of heavy petroleum or paraffine\noils, lard oil, whale or fish, palm and some-\ntimes cottonseed and resin oils. There are\nnearly as many of these composite oils in the\nmarket as there are dealers in such supplies.\nThe following is one of them\nPer cent.\nPetroleum 30\nParaffine oil (crude), 20\nLard oil 20\nPalm oil 9\nCottonseed oil 20\n99\nSolid or semi -solid unguents, such as mill and\naxle grease, etc., are prepared from a variety\nof substances. The following are the compo-\nsitions and methods of compounding a few of\nthese\n2. Frazer s axle grease is composed of par-\ntially saponified rosin oil, that is a rosin soap and\nrosin oil. In its preparation J^ gal. of No. 1 and\n2^ gal. of No. 4 rosin oil are saponified with a\nsolution of y% lb. of sal soda dissolved in 3 pt. of\nwater and 10 lb. of sifted lime. After standing\nfor six hours or more this is drawn off from\nthe sediment and thoroughly mixed with 1 gal.\nof No. 1, 3*4 gal. of No. 2 and 4% gal. of No. 3\nrosin oil. This rosin oil is obtained by the\ndestructive distillation of common rosin, the\nproducts ranging from an extremely light to a\nheavy fluorescent oil or colophonic tar.\n3. Pitt s car, mill and axle grease is prepared\nas follows\nBlack oil or petroleum resi-\nduum 40 gal.\nAnimal grease 50 lb.\nRosin (powdered) .60 lb.\nSoda lye 2J4 gal.\nSalt, dissolved in a little water. 5 lb.\nAll but the lye are mixed together and\nheated to about 250° Fah. The lye is then\ngradually stirred in and in about twenty-four\nhours the compound is ready for use.\n4. Hendricks 1 lubricant is prepared from\nwhale or fish oil, white lead and petroleum.\nThe oil and white lead are, in about equal\nquantities, stirred and gradually heated to be-\ntween 350° Fah. and 400° Fah., then mixed\nwith a sufficient quantity of the petroleum to\nreduce the mixture to the proper gravity.\n5. Munger s preparation consists of\nPetroleum ...lgal.\nTallow 4 oz.\nPalm oil .4 oz.\nPlumbago 6 oz.\nSoda 1 oz.\nThese are mixed and heated to 180° Fah. for\nan hour or more, cooled, and, after twenty-\nfour hours, well stirred together.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0333.jp2"},"330":{"fulltext":"Lubricants.\n318\nLubricants.\n6, 7. A somewhat similar compound is pre-\npared by Johnson as follows\nLiquid. Solid.\nPetroleum (30° to 37°\ngravity) 1 gal. 1 gal.\nCrude paraffine 1 oz. 2 oz.\nWax (myrtle, Japan and\ngambier) V/o oz. 7 oz.\nBicarbonate of soda 1 oz. 1 oz.\nPowdered graphite... 3 to 5 oz. 8 oz.\n8. Maguire uses, for hot neck grease\nTallow 161b.\nPish 601b.\nSoapstone 12 lb.\nPlumbago 9 lb.\nSaltpeter 21b.\nThe fish (whole) is steamed, macerated and\nthe jelly pressed through fine sieves for use\nwith the other constituents.\n9. Chard s preparation for heavy bearings\nconsist of—\nPetroleum (gravity 25°) 12 oz.\nCaoutchouc 2 oz.\nSulphur 2 oz.\nPlumbago 4oz.\nBeeswax 4 oz.\nSal soda 2 oz.\nThe composition is stirred and heated to 140°\nPah. for half an hour.\n10. Booth s.—^ lb. soda, 1 gal. rapeseed oil,\n1 gal. water, J^lb. tallow or palm oil; mix inti-\nmately, heat to boiling, and continue stirring\ntill cooled down to 60° or 70° P. (15^° to 21° C).\n11. 4 gal. boiling water, y^ lb. Scotch soda, 10\nlb. of a mixture of palm oil and tallow in any\nproportions; treat as 10.\n12. 10 lb. Scotch soda, 1 lb. glue dissolved in\n10 gal. water, 10 gal. oil, 4 lb. India rubber dis-\nsolved in oil of turpentine; add the India rub-\nber last, and stir the whole thoroughly.\n13. 2Yq lb. lard, 1 oz. camphor, y^ lb. graphite\n(blacklead). Rub up the camphor into a paste\nwith part of the lard in a mortar, add the\ngraphite and the rest of the lard, and intimately\nmix.\n14. Dissolve 234 lb. sugar of lead (lead acetate)\nin 16 lb. melted but not boiling tallow, and add\n3 lb. black antimony, stirring the mixture\nconstantly till cold. Por cooling necks of\nshafts.\n15. 4 lb. tallow, 1 lb. graphite, ground together\ntill quite smooth, adding 3 lb. to 5 lb. camphor\nper cwt.\n16. Railway Grease.— For summer use— 1%\ncwt. tallow, 1J4 cwt. palm oil.\n17. Por autumn and spring— 1]4, cwt. each tal-\nlow and palm oil.\n18. Por Winter.— 114 cwt. tallow, 1% cwt.\npalm oil. Melt the tallow in an open pan, add\nthe palm oil, and remove the fire the moment\nthe mixture boils; stir frequently while cooling-,\nand when the temperature has fallen to about\n100° F. (38° C), run it through a sieve into a so-\nlution of soda (56 to 60 lb.) in 3 gal. water; and\nstir together thoroughly.\nLubricating Oil, to Clean.— Agitate it with a\nsmall percentage of oil of vitriol, and then\nthoroughly wash it with water by agitation;\nsiphon off the oil, and let stand over quick-\nlime. To filter oil from mechanically contained\nimpurities, fit a small cork, cut star shaped, in\nthe angle of a funnel, so that it will not impede\nthe passage of liquids, and cover this loosely\nwith cotton wool (raw cotton). If properly\narranged, the oil will pass through, leaving the\nimpurities in the cotton.\nOil, Lubricating, to Purify.— The following is\na good method of purifying lubricating oil A\ntub holding 63 qt. has a tap inserted close to\nthe bottom and another about 4 in. higher. In\nthis receptacle are placed 7 qt. boiling water,\n3% oz. carbonate of soda, 3$i oz. chloride of\ncalcium, and 9 oz. common salt. When all\nthese are in solution, 45 qt. of the oil to be puri-\nfied are let in and well stirred for five or ten\nminutes; the whole is then left for a week in a\nwarm place, at the expiration of which time\nthe clear pure oil can be drawn off through\nthe upper tap without disturbing the bottom\none.\nOil, Lubricating, to Test.— To test lubricating\noil for acid dissolve a crystallized piece of car-\nbonate of soda about as large as a walnut in an\nequal bulk of water, and place the solution in\na flask with some of the oil. If, on settling after\nthorough agitation, a large quantity of precip-\nitate forms, the oil should be rejected as im-\npure.\nLubricant for Brasswork. Writing to Nature\nregarding various fats which are used to\nsmooth and bind the surfaces of various kinds\nof apparatus, such as air pumps, stopcocks,\netc., Mr. H. G. Madan says: Melted India rub-\nber answers fairly, but it has too little body and\ntoo much glutinosity; moreover, it does, un-\ndoubtedly, in course of time, harden into a\nbrittle, resinous substance. Vaseline is quite\nwithout action on brass and never hardens, but\nit has not sufficient tenacity and adhesiveness.\nA mixture of 2 parts by weight of vaseline (the\ncommon thick brown kind) and 1 part of melted\nIndia rubber seems to combine the good quali-\nties of both without the drawbacks of either.\nThe India rubber should, of course, be pure\n(not vulcanized), and should be cut up into\nshreds and melted at the lowest possible tem-\nperature in an iron cup, being constantly\npressed down against the hot surface and stirred\nuntil a uniform glutinous mass is obtained.\nThen the proper weight of vaseline should be\nadded, and the whole thoroughly stirred to-\ngether. This may be left on an air pump plate\nfor, at any rate, a couple of years without per-\nceptible alteration, either in itself or the brass.\nLocomotive Grease.\nSummer.\nWinter.\nTallow\nPer cent.\n18-3\n122\n15\n55\n625\nPer cent.\n22 3\n122\n12\nSoda crystals\n5-0\n593\nioo-o\nioo-o\nRosin Oil Soap.— One hundred lb. of rosin oil\nand 80 lb. lime slaked to a powder are agitated\nin an iron pot and the mixture is heated till a\nuniform mixture is obtained, free from lumps,\nand running from the stirring implement like\nsirup. With this rosin oil soap all the different\nvarieties of patent Avagon grease are made as\nfollows\nBlue Patent Grease.— Five hundred lb. red\nrosin oil are heated for one hour with 2 lb. cal-\ncium hydrate and allowed to cool. The oil is\nskimmed off the sediment and 10 or 12 lb. rosin\noil soap are stirred in till all is of a buttery con-\nsistence and of blue color.\nYellow Patent Grease.— Is prepared by add-\ning 6% of turmeric solution to the blue grease.\nBlack Patent Grease.— Lampblack is used to\nproduce the black color.\nPatent Palm Oil Wagon Grease.— Ten lb. rosin\noil soap are melted with 10 lb. of palm oil; 500\nlb. rosin oil ai*e then added and as much rosin\noil soap to make the whole the consistence of\nbutter, and lastly 7 to 8 lb. of caustic soda lye.\nParaffine Residues.— The thick oil which re-\nmains in the paraffine manufacture is used as a\nlubricating oil, partly on account of its cheap-\nness and partly on account of its not easily\nsolidifying by cold. In order to thicken some\nlead soap is melted with it.\nMixtures of rosin oil or rosin oil soap and\npetroleum with glycerine also are often used\nlubricants.\nAnti-Attrition.— Grind together black lead\nwith four times its weight of lard or tallow.\nUsed to lessen friction in machinery and to","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0334.jp2"},"331":{"fulltext":"Lubricants.\n319\nLubricant*.\nprevent iron rusting. Camphor is sometimes\nadded, 7 lb. to the cwt.\nAnti-attrition Paste.— Lard, 2}4 lb.; camphor,\n1 oz.; black lead, ]4 lb.; rub the camphor in a\nmortar down into a paste, with a little of the\nlard; then add the rest of the lard and the\nblack lead and mix thoroughly.\nAnti-friction Grease.— 1. Boil together 1% cwt.\nof tallow with 1*4 cwt. of palm oil. When boil-\ning point is reached allow it to cool to blood\nheat, stirring it meanwhile, then strain through\na sieve into a solution of J^ cwt. of soda in 3\ngal. of water, mixing it well. The above is for\nsummer. For winter cwt. of tallow to 1%\ncwt. palm oil; spring and autumn, V/% cwt. of\ntallow to V/i cwt. palm oil.\n2. Anti-friction Grease, Axle Grease, Lubri-\nbricating Compound.— Melt, but avoid boiling,\n16 lb. tallow and dissolve in it 2J4 lb. sugar of\nlead; then add 3 lb. of black antimony. The\nmixture must be constantly stirred until cold.\nThis composition is for cooling the necks of\nshafts and may be of service where the shafts\nare not of the proper length or the bearings\nare at fault.\n3. Lard, 2^£ lb.; camphor, 1 oz.; black lead,\nlb. Rub the camphor in a mortar into a paste,\nwith a small portion of the lard; then add the\nremainder of the lard and the blacklead and\nthoroughly mix.\n4. Mankettrick s unvulcanized rubber (dis-\nsolved in oil of turpentine), 4 lb.; Scotch soda,\n10 lb.; glue, 1 lb.; dissolved in 10 gal. of water;\noil, 10 gal., thoroughly incorporated by assidu-\nous stirring, adding the rubber last.\n1/ubricating Composition for Railway Axles\nIn a small boiler dissolve from 56 lb. to 60 lb. of\nsoda in about 3 gal. water. In a 60 gal. boiler\nmelt tallow, and to it add palm oil, each in quan-\ntity according to season.\n1. In summer weather, tallow, 1 cwt. 3 qr.;\npalm oil, 1 cwt. 1 qr.\n2. In winter, tallow, 1 cwt. 1 qr.; palm oil, 1\ncwt. 3 qr.\n3. In spring or autumn, tallow, 1 cwt. 2 qr.;\npalm oil, 1 cwt. 2 qr. As soon as the mixture\nboils, put out the fire, and let the mixture cool\ndown gradually, frequently stirring it while\ncooling. When reduced to blood heat, run it\noff through a sieve into the solution of soda,\nstirring it well, to insure a perfect mixture of\nthe ingredients.\n1. English Railway Axle Grease\nSummer. Winter.\nTallow 504 lb. 420 lb.\nPalm oil 280 1b. 280 1b.\nSperm oil 22 lb. 35 lb.\nCaustic soda 120 lb. 126 lb.\nWater .1370 lb. 1524 lb.\n2. German Railway Grease\nTallow 24 60\nPalm oil 9 80\nRapeseed oil 1*10\nSoda 5 20\nWater 59-30\n3. Austrian Railway Grease\nTallow. 01 e old\nj-diiuw. 0lL grease#\nWinter 10 20 13\nSpring and autumn 100 10 10\nSummer 100 1 10\n4. French Liard.— Dissolve 3 oz. shredded\nIndia rubber in 1 gal. finest rapeseed oil by the\napplication of heat.\nAxle Grease— -The following is a receipt for\na thick oil grease\n1. For use in winter\nTallow 35 parts.\nOil of resin 10 parts.\nOlive or rape oil 65 parts.\nFor use in summer\nTallow 60 parts.\nOil of resin 8 parts.\nOlive or rape oil 40 parts.\nThe blue color is due to the dark violet tint\nof the oil referred to, while the yellow tint is\nproduced by the addition of a solution of tur-\nmeric root in caustic soda.\nLubricant for Car Axles.— Dark ozocerite, 15\nparts; heavy petroleum, 3 to 6 parts. Melt to-\ngether at a gentle heat. Suitable also for heavy\nwagons.\nBelts, Adhesive Grease for.— To 100 parts of\ncaster oil add 10 parts of tallow. Belts lubricat-\ning with this mixture are made flexible, and\nthe friction on the pulleys is increased.\nDrill Lubricator.— For drilling wrought iron,\nuse l^j lb. soft soap, mixed with 1}4 gal. boiling\nwater. Insures ease in working and clean cut-\nting.\nLiard.— One hundred parts fine rape oil and 2\nparts pure unvulcanized rubber, cut fine. Heat\nover a water bath.\nFrench s Machine Grease\nPetroleum 500 parts.\nGraphite 44 parts.\nBeeswax 1^ parts.\nTallow 4V* parts.\nCaustic soda V/% parts.\nThese are mixed together at a boiling heat.\nMachinery Lubricants.— 1. Graphite, 28 parts;\ntalc, 20 parts; sulphur, 16 parts; wax or paraf-\nfine, 16 parts.\n2. Graphite, 15 parts; bone glue, 73^ parts;\nwater, 16 parts; sulphur, 6 parts; wax or par-\naffine, 5J^ parts. A patent has been taken out\nin France for lubricants compounded in this\nmanner.\nMetaline.—l. Metaline has been highly com-\nmended as a lubricator to prevent the heating\nof journal boxes in machinery. It appears that\nit is of very uncertain composition, and some\ndoubts may be expressed as to the truth of all\nthat has been said in reference to it. The first\nclaim is for the following\n2. Eighty parts of finely ground lignum vitas\nis ground up with 20 parts of spermaceti, grad-\nually added, and the whole then pressed into\na mould.\n3. Eighty parts ivory dust and 20 parts sper-\nmaceti.\n4. Ninety-nine parts tin and 1 part petro-\nleum residue.\n5. Ninety-five parts zinc and 5 parts melted\nIndia rubber.\n6. Ninety parts anthracite and 10 parts oil dry\ntallow.\n7. Ninety-eight parts bronze (composed of 93%\ncopper, tin, 1% lead or zinc) and 2 parts fused\nrubber.\n8. Ninety-six parts type metal and 4 parts\nfused India rubber.\n9. Ninety-five parts oxide tin and 5 parts\nbeeswax.\n10. Fifty parts iron, part paraffine and 50\nparts tin.\n11. Eighty parts lead and 20 parts cannel coal.\n12. Ninety-two parts fresh hones and 8 parts\nbeeswax.\n13. Ninety parts prepared alumina and 10\nparts spermaceti.\n14. Ninety-five parts copper glance, free from\nsilica, and 5 parts fused India rubber.\n15. Eighty-six parts lead, 12 parts lampblack,\n2 parts beeswax.\nOil of Mustard as a Lubricator. —Mix ordinary\noil of mustard with a small quantity of petro-\nleum, fish oil or other similar fatty substance.\nThis has been found to be an excellent lubri-\ncator for machinery where there is excessive\nf riction, such as turbine wheels, etc.\nWatch Oils.— An oil fit to be used as a lubri-\ncator for fine mechanism should possess the fol-\nlowing essential qualities: It should neither\nthicken nor dry up nor get hard at a low tem-\nperature, nor should it be subject to oxidation.\nIn spite of the vast progress natural science\nhas made of late years, it has not succeeded in\ndiscovering an animal or vegetable oil possess-\ning these combined properties without previ-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0335.jp2"},"332":{"fulltext":"L limber.\n330\nMagnesia.\n•ous artificial manipulation. Let us mention a\nfew instances\n1. Almond oil has the valuable property not\nbecoming firm till below 17° R., but it oxidizes\nsooner than any other oil.\n2. Poppy seed oil will withstand cold to 15° R.\nand preserves itself well from oxidation, but it\nis one of the drying oils and therefore useless\nas a watch oil.\n3. Olive oil, up to the present the most useful\namong watch oils, does not dry or thicken, nor\ndoes it oxidate for a comparatively long time,\nbut it hardens at 2° R.\n4. The properties of neatsfoot oil are\nsimilar to those of olive oil, but it exceeds the\nlatter in resistance against oxidation.\n5. Put 1 oz. pure olive oil in a tumbler, add\n:2oz. of 96° alcohol, stirring well; set it away in\na dark place for twenty-four hours or more,\nwell covered, then pour into a clean bottle con-\ntaining 10 oz. distilled or clean rain water;\nshake violently for five minutes, allow the\nmixture to stand a half hour or so, then freeze\n-with salt and ice. You will find a good article\nof fine limpid watch oil, perfectly fluid at top.\nDraw off with a siphon. Be careful not to\nbreak the bottle in freezing.\nLubricating Soap. See Soaps.\nLumber, to Preserve. Lumber treated\n-with steam at a low pressure which has been\npassed through a vessel containing sulphate of\nsine and alum.— Science Record, 187U. See also\nWood, Preservation of.\nLuminous Bodies. See also Paint,\nLuminous— Five parts of a luminous sul-\nphide of an alkaline earth, 10 parts of fluorspar,\ncryolite or other similar fluoride, 1 part of bari-\num borate; powdered, mixed, made into a cream\nwith water, painted on the glass or stone article,\ndried and fired in the usual way for enamels.\nIf the article contains an oxide of iron, lead or\nother metal, it must be first glazed with ground\nfeldspar, silica, lime phosphate or clay, to keep\nthe sulphur of the sulphide from combining\nwith the metal. The result is an enameled\nluminous article. Heaton and Bolas.\n2. Boil for one hour 2*4 oz. caustic lime, re-\ncently prepared by calcining clean white shells\nat a strong red heat, with 1 oz. pure sulphur\n(floured) and 1 qt. soft water. Set aside in a\ncovered vessel for a few days; then pour off\nthe liquid, collect the clear orange colored crys-\ntals which have deposited and let them drain\nand dry on bibulous paper. Place the dried\nsulphide in a clean graphite crucible provided\nwith a cover. Heat for half an hour at a tem-\nperature just short of redness, then quickly\nfor about fifteen minutes at a white heat. Re-\nmove cover, and pack in clay until perfectly\ncold. A small quantity of pure calcium fluor-\nide is added to the sulphide before heating it.\nIt may be mixed with alcoholic copal varnish.\nBoston Jl. Chem.\nLuminous Paper. See Paper. p\nLuster 9 Gold, for China Painting.-\nDissolve 1 drm. gold in oz. aqua regia, or\nsimply dissolve this weight of chloride of gold\nin water. Add 6 grn. metallic tin, and enough\naqua regia if required to dissolve it. Pour\nwith constant stirring into a mixture of\ndrm. balsam of sulphur and 20 grn. oil of tur-\npentine. As it stiffens add y% drm. oil of tur-\npentine and mix. More gold gives a brighter\neffect; tin inclines it to a violet tinge. Balsam\nof sulphur is made by boiling together in a\ncovered vessel 1 part flowers of sulphur and 4\nparts oil until the mass thickens.— [A corre-\nspondent, having tried the above formula, re-\nports that the gold wears off quickly. This is a\ntypical receipt, and was obtained from a reli-\nable authority, but as experiments of this kind\nare costly, amateurs had better purchase the\ngold ready prepared. Janvier recommends\nLacroix gold (or Lacroix), which can be ob-\ntained in several terms.— Ed.]\nLusters.— In keramics, the term is used to\ndenote films of metal so thin that they become\nirridescent.\nLustrine. See Starch.\nLutecine. See Alloys.\nLutes. See Cements.\nLye, to Make Good.- Hickory ashes are\nthe best for making common washing soft soap\n(when it is not desirable to use the potash lye),\nbut those from sound beech, maple, or almost\nany kind of hard wood except oak will answer\nwell. A common barrel set upon an inclined\nplatform makes a very good leach, but one\nmade of boards set in a trough in V shape is to\nbe preferred, for the strength of the ashes is\nbetter obtained, and it may be taken to pieces\nwhen not in use, and laid up. First, in the bot-\ntom of the leach put a few sticks; over them\nspread a piece of carpet or woolen cloth, which\nis much better than straw put on a few inches\nof ashes and from 4 to 8 qt. lime; fill with\nashes, moistened, and tamp down well— tamp\nthe firmest in the center. It is difficult to ob-\ntain the full strength of ashes in a barrel with-\nout removing them after a day s leaching, and\nmixing them up and replacing. The top should\nbe first thrown off and new ashes added to\nmake up the proper quantity. Use boiling\nwater for second leaching. This lye should be\nsufficiently strong to float a potato.\nMacassar Oil. See Hair (Oils).\nMaceration. When an infusion is made\nwithout the aid of heat, the process is termed\nmaceration. This takes a much longer time\nthan an infusion, rarely requiring less than\none, and sometimes several weeks. Those sub-\nstances to which heat would be injurious or\nwhich are easily soluble are treated in this way.\nIn many distillations this method is made use of\nto soften the substances before putting into\nthe still, and facilitate the extraction of\ntheir odorous principle. When tinctures are\nprepared by maceration, they should be fre-\nquently shaken during the process, which\nshould be conducted in glass vessels well stop-\npered.\nMachinery, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nMadder. Madder is the root of a plant\nknown as rubia tinctorum, a native appar-\nently of Persia, but which has long been\ncultivated In Turkey, France and Holland.\nSeveral plants of the same and of allied fami-\nlies, contain coloring principles of a similar na-\ntiure, and are occasionally used in its stead.\nThe Turkey or Levant roots, known also as\nlizari, are generally imported unground. The\npieces are outwardly brown and of a light or-\nange within.\nMadeira Wine. See Wines.\nMafurra Oil. See Oil.\nMagenta.— The ordinary trade name given\nto certain bright bluish red coloring matters,\nproduced by the action of oxidizing agents upon\naniline, and found to be compounds of a base\nknown as rosaniline, with certain acids. Thus\nthe variety sold as roseine or acetate of ma-\ngenta, is an acetate of rosaniline. Fuchsine,\nfuchsiacine and fuschine ai*e hydrochloratesof\nthe same base, while azaleine and rubine are\nnitrates. The acetates appear to be the most\nbeautiful.\nMagilp.— A mixture of boiled linseed oil\nand mastic varnish forms a gelatinous sub-\nstance much used by artists and called ma-\ngilp.\nMagnesia, Citrate of.— 1. Magnesium car-\nbonate, 4 oz.; citric acid, 8 oz.; sugar, 12 oz.;\nwater, 9 pt. Flavor with essence of lemon, then\ndissolve and filter, fill bottles immediately and\nadd to each 30 grn. of potassium hydrogen car-\nbonate and cork securely. Bottles must not be\nfilled any higher than the shoulder. The re-\nceipt is sufficient for twelve bottles.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0336.jp2"},"333":{"fulltext":"Magnets.\n321\nManuscripts.\n2. Carbonate of magnesia 4 oz.\nCitric acid 8 oz.\nOil of lemon 25 drops.\nSugar 14 oz.\nWater q. s.\nDrop the lemon oil on 4 oz. carbonate of mag-\nnesia, scrape it and place, together with the\ncitric acid and six parts water, in a wide mouth\nbottle. In the course of a few hours the solu-\ntion will be effected. Add the sugar and dis-\nsolve by frequent agitation. Filter through\npaper and divide the clear liquid into twelve\nsuitable bottles. Lastly, these bottles must be\nnearly filled with filtered water, and to each of\nthem is added, immediately before corking,\n40 grn. chemically pure bicarbonate of soda.\nMagnets, to Charge. Correspondents\nfrequently ask the following questions, Avhich\nare fully answered in their order: 1. For a\nplain description of how to proceed in order\nto charge a straight bar of steel with suffi-\ncient magnetism to give it the power lifting\nfour times its own weight. Also how to pro-\nceed with horse shoe and other forms. 2. The\nname of the best brand of steel to use— Jes-\nsup s, chrome, black diamond, tool or ma-\nchinery. How to temper. 3. Is there any\ngain in allowing the bar to remain under the\ninfluence of the current for a long time, or\ndoes it receive the full charge instantaneously\nIn fact, we would like some information on\nthis subject that we can rely upon. A. 1. The\nquickest and best way to magnetize steel bars\nis to place them centrally in a suitable coil, and\nthen connect the helix with the wires from a\ndynamo-electric machine or powerful battery\nfor a few seconds, remembering to break the\ncurrent before removing the magnet from the\ncoil. If the source of the current is a dynamo\nmachine, the coil should be about 2}^ in. long\nand should consist of 10 or 12 layers of No. 12\nmagnet wire. If a battery is used, a coil m in.\nlong, composed of 14 or 16 layers of No. 16 mag-\nnet wire, will be the best. The internal diam-\neter of the coil should be only large enough to\nadmit the bars easily. A battery of six Grenet\nelements, each having an effective zinc surface\nof 30 sq. in. connected in series, will do the\nwork very well on small magnets; such, for in-\nstance, as are used in telephones. Where a\nnumber of magnets are to be made at one time\nthe bars may be passed in a continuous line\nthrough the coil, always keeping three bars in\ncontact end to end, adding one above the coil\nbefore taking one off below. In this manner\nsixty bar magnets have been strongly charged\nin ten minutes. Horse shoe magnets cannot be\ncharged so readily. There are two or three\nways of charging them. One way is to place\nthem in contact with the poles of a very strong\nelectro-magnet, removing them after breaking\nthe current; another method is to place each\nlimb of the magnet in a coil adapted toff he\ncurrent to be used, and still another method is\nto employ a single coil, inserting one pole of\nthe magnet into the coil in one direction, then\nbreaking the current, and inserting the other\npole into the coil from the opposite direction.\nIt is well to remember that the magnet will be\nvery much impaired if the current is not\nbroken before removing it from the coil. The\nsecret of success in charging magnets is to\nhave a strong current. It is impossible to make\nmagnets satisfactorily without this all import-\nant requisite. 2. As to the quality of steel best\nadapted to this purpose, machinery steel hard-\nened and not tempered answers admirably.\nFor horse shoe magnets German spring steel is\nthe best. Tool steel answers well if hardened\nand drawn to a straw color. 3. The steel re-\nceives its maximum charge almost instantly.\nIt is useless to allow it to remain under the in-\nfluence of the magnetizing current more than\na few seconds.— Scientific American.\nMagnesium Powder. See Photo-\ngraphy.\nMahogany, Filling for. Take equal\nparts by weight of whiting, plaster of Paris,\npumice stone, and litharge, to which may be\nadded a little French yellow, asphaltum, Van-\ndyke brown and terra di Sienna/ Mix with 1\npart japan, 2 parts boiled oil and 3 parts tur-\npentine; grind fine in a mill. Lay the filling\nin with a brush, rub it in well, let it set twenty\nminutes and then rub it clean.\nMaillechort. See Alloys.\nMalachite, Artificial. Artificial mala-\nchite, which is susceptible to a fine polish, is\nmade by precipitating a solution of sulphate of\ncopper in the cold by carbonate of soda or of\npotash. The precipitate, which is voluminous,\nshould be allowed first to cohere, and is then\ndried and washed.\nMalleability.— Is the property belonging\nto certain metals of being beaten out into thin\nplates, without cracking or breaking.\nMalt Extract with Iron. Distilled\nwater, 4^ parts; phosphate of iron, 3 parts; a\nlittle citrate of ammonium. Dissolve and mix\nwith 142J^ parts malt extract.\nMalt Extract.— Put in a vessel equal parts\nof crushed malt and water. After standing for\nthree or four hours, add 4 parts warm water.\nThe mixture should be kept for an hour at a\ntemperature of 150° F. Boil up the liquid, press\nand filter. Evaporate quickly.\nMaltha or Greeh Mastic— Mix lime and\nsand the same as for mortar. Use milk or size,\ninstead of water, to make the proper consist-\nency.\nManganese Alloys. See Alloys.\nManifold Paper. See Paper.\nManipulations, Chemical and Phar-\nmaceutical.— See the subjects named below\nCerates, Clarification, Concentration, Decanta-\ntion, Desiccation, Decoctions, Digestion, Distilla-\ntion, Dialysis, Elutriation, Emulsions, Evapora-\ntion, Extracts, Fusion, Infusion, Liniment, Levi-\ngation, Liquefaction, Maceration, Percolation,\nPills, Precipitation, Pulverization, Reduction,\nSaturation, Solution, Sublimation, SupjJositories,\nTinctures.\nMannheim Gold. See Alloys.\nManures, Artificial.— 1. (Anderson.) Am-\nmonium sulphate, common salt and oil of\nvitriol, each 10 parts; potassium chloride, 15\nparts; gypsum and potassium sulphate, each\n17 parts; saltpeter, 20 parts; crude Epsom salts,\nsodium sulphate, 33 parts. For clover.\n2. (Huxtable.) Crude potash, 281b.; common\nsalt, 1 cwt.; bone dust and gypsum, each 2 cwt.;\nwood ashes, 15 bushels. For either corn, tur-\nnips or grass.\n3. (Johnstone.) Sodium sulphate (dry), 11 lb.;\nwood ashes, 28 lb.; common salt, cwt.; crude\nammonium sulphate, 1 cwt.; bone dust, 7\nbushels. As a substitute for guano.\nLiquid Manure.— 1. Dissolve 25 lb. guano in\n5 gallons of water. For use add 2}/i oz. of this\nsolution to 5 gal. water.\n2. Sheeps dung, peck, to 15 gal. of water;\nsulphate of ammonia, oz. to every gallon.\nManure from Soot.— Save the soot that falls\nfrom the chimneys when the latter are cleaned.\nTwelve qt. soot to 1 hhd. water makes a good\nliquid manure, to be applied to the roots of\nplants. See also Fertilizers.\nManuscripts, to Renew.— 1. Take a hair\npencil and wash the part that has been effaced\nwith a solution of prussiate of potash in water,\nand the writing will again appear if the paper\nhas not been destroyed.\n2. Wash the paper with a strong solution of\ntannin. Dry carefully.\nTo Preserve.— Mix 100 pt. collodion with 2 pt.\nstearine. Give the paper a coating of this. It\ndries in twenty minutes.\nMaple Beer. See Beers.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0337.jp2"},"334":{"fulltext":"Maps.\n322\nMastic.\nMaps. —Backing Maps with Muslin.— Stretch\nyour muslin (ordinary cotton stuff) on a wooden\nstretcher by means of tacks, cover your map on\nthe back with an even and thin coat of good\nboiled starch or flour paste or other sticking ma-\nterials, no matter what, if it only sticks. Lay the\nmap on the cloth, only taking care to do this\nsmoothly and to avoid wrinkles; rub it evenly\ndown after temporarily covering- the place you\nrub with a piece of clean paper so as to avoid fric-\ntion over the map itself. Let it dry, and the work\nis done. In order to avoid wrinkles, it is quite\nessential to let your paper map, after being\ncovered with the starch paste, soak for a few\nminutes, so as to give the paper a chance to ex-\npand from the moisture. It will then, while\ncontracting from the drying, obtain a very\nsmoothly stretched surface. Bookbinders al-\nways carefully observe this when pasting pa-\npers on book covers, etc.\nMap Colors.— 1. Blue.— A weak mixture of sul-\nphate of indigo and water, to which add a small\nquantity of gum.\n2. Green.— Dissolve crystals of verdigris in\nwater, and add a small quantity of gum.\n3. Red.— Make a decoction of Brazil dust in\nvinegar and a small quantity of gum and alum;\nor make an infusion of cochineal and add a\nlittle gum.\n4. Yellow.— Dissolve gamboge in water, or\nmake a decoction of French berries, strain, and\nadd a small quantity of gum arabic.\nTo Mount Maps.— I. Stretch smooth factory\ncloth upon a frame and coat it with glue size.\nBefore this dries, apply a strong flour paste to\nthe back of the map, and lay it smoothly on the\ncloth. Let it remain until I perfectly dry. If\nthe map is to be varnished, apply two or three\ncoats of isinglass size, and after it becomes\nthoroughly dry, flow on a coat of varnish con-\nsisting of balsam of fir diluted to the proper\nconsistency with turpentine.\n2. Stretch the muslin on a flat table, tacking\nthe edges if necessary, spread the paper face\ndownward on another table, and rub it over\nwith perfectly smooth flour paste. If neces-\nsary, the paste must be passed through a fine\nwire sieve. If properly made, this will not be\nrequired. Then hft the paper and place it\npaste side downward on the muslin. Lay an-\nother piece over it, and rub it down with the\nhand.\nBelief Maps.— Suppose you have a map of a\nsection of country on which are marked contour\nlines made by passing horizontal planes at verti-\ncal distances of 10 ft., or any other distance.\nTake sheets of cardboard so that the thickness\nshall represent 1ft., then 10 superposed will give\n10ft. The thickness of the cardboard is of course\nthe unit of your scale, both vertical and horizon-\ntal. Now cut out pieces of cardboard of the same\nsize and shape as the horizontal space embraced\nby the different contour lines. Then on your\nmap draw in between the contour lines and\napproximately parallel to the nine other\nlines, and cut pieces of cardboard correspond-\ning to them. Superpose these in their regular\norder, and you have the rough formation in\nrelief of your map. The pieces of cardboard\nare pasted together and carefully pressed to\nkeep the whole mass uniform. Then smear\nwax over the whole, in order to make a smooth\nsurface. Different colors will represent roads,\ngrass, rivers, etc. Trees or forests can be rep-\nresented by dried green moss. Houses and\nother buildings and constructions are made of\nwax. In the practical work of making such a\nmap, other details may come up, but they will\ngenerally be such as will present little difficulty\nto any one at all conversant with modeling.\nThe chief difficulty lies in procuring maps with\ncontour lines marked on them.\nMaps,Varnishfor. See Varnishes.\nMaraschino. See Liquors.\nMarble, Artificial. —1. Reduce marble\ndust or white limestone to a very fine powder\nby grinding and sifting, mix with it inti-\nmately about J4 its weight of zinc oxide (zinc\nwhite) and its weight of Portland cement,\nand mix thoroughly into a thick paste with a\nsufficient quantity of a hot aqueous solution of\nwaterglass, containing about 40$ of the glass.\nMould the paste under pressure while warm,\nand expose the moulded form for a week or\nten days to warm dry air, before finishing.\n2. A solution of alum is made by dissolving\nthe alum in sufficient water, and then plaster\nof Paris is put right into the vessel containing\nthe liquid. It is then so mixed that the solu-\ntion reaches all portions of the plaster. Next,\nas described, it is baked.\n3. Good Portland cement and colors that\ntake on that material are mixed dry and made\ninto a paste with the least quantity of water\nadded. One paste has to be made for each\ncolor. The different pastes are placed on top\nof one another in layers of different thickness.\nThe mass is pressed from all sides and beaten\nso that the colors of the different parts impress\nthemselves on each other without uniformity.\nThe result is that more or less deep veins pene-\ntrate the mass; this is then sawed into plates,\nwhich are pressed in a mould for twelve days,\nduring which time it is necessary to keep them\nmoist as long as they are not entirely hard-\nened. The plates are polished in the same way\nas marble.\n4. H. Brack says this composition (marmorit)\ncontains .2 parts of magnesia, 2 parts of lime\nand quicklime, 1 part of carbonic acid, J4 part\nof silicic acid, J4 part of argillaceous earth, and\n1 part of magnesium chloride.\nMarble, Cements for. See Cements.\nMarble, to Clean.— To clean marble from\ndiscoloration: Try 2 parts sodium carbonate, 1\npart of pumice stone^and 1 part of finely pow-\ndered chalk. Mix into a fine paste with water.\nRub this over the marble, and the stains will\nbe removed; then wash with soap and water.\nSee also Cleansing {Marble).\nMarble, to Gild. See Gilding.\nMarbling. See Graining.\nMarbleizing Mantels.-The slate is coated\nwith asphalt, ground to a smooth surface, and\nbaked. The paints are mixed in oil and floated\non water, the prepared slate being brought in-\nto contact with the under surface of the paint\nby bringing it up through the water. The\npaint thus adheres in irregular patches, pro-\nducing the marbleization. After drying it is\nagain baked.\nMarble, to Polish. See Polishing.\nMarble, to Stain. See Dyeing.\nMarine Glue. See Glues.\nMarking Ink, See Inks.\nMarking Tools.— To mark tools warm\nthem slightly, and rub the steel with wax, or\nhard tallow, until a film gathers. Then scratch\nthe letters on the wax, cutting through to the\nsteel. A little nitric acid poured on the writ-\ning will quickly eat out the letters. Wash\noff the acid and remove the wax with a hot rag,\nand the letters will be securely etched. See\nEtching.\nMarley s Alloy. See Alloys.\nMarly.— The flat border of a plate.\nMartial Regulus. See Alloys.\nMasks, Life. See Plaster Casting\nfrom Iiife.\nMasses, for Flowers, etc. See Compo-\nsitions.\nMasses for Picture Frames, etc.\nSee Compositions.\nMassicot. See Litharge.\nMastic— Mastich, Gum Mastic— The resin\nflowing from the incised bark of Pistacia len-\ntiscus, var. Chia. It occurs in pale yellowish,","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0338.jp2"},"335":{"fulltext":"Ma tclie*.\nMatches.\ntransparent, rounded tears, which soften be-\ntween the teeth when chewed, and give out a\nbitter, aromatic taste, sp. gr. TOT. It is solu-\nble in both rectified spirit and oil of turpen-\ntine, forming varnishes. It is chiefly used as a\nmasticatory to strengthen and preserve the\nteeth and perfume the breath.\nMatches.— For complete information con-\nsult Dussauce, Practical Treatise on the Fabrica-\ntion of Matches, etc.\nMatches.— Ordinary matches are small slips\nof wood which have been dipped in sulphur,\nand afterward tipped with a paste capable of\nignition by friction. This paste contains\n1. Common phosphorus, 4 parts niter, 16\nparts; red lead, 3 parts; strong lead, 6 parts.\n2. Ordinary phosphorus, 9 parts niter, 14\nparts; binoxide of manganese, 14 parts; gum\nor glue, 16 parts. Melt the glue at 213° F.,\ngradually add the phosphorus, which must be\nwell stirred into the liquid then add the niter\nand coloring matter. Keep the paste at a regu-\nlar temperature of about 97° F. by means of\nhot water under the marble or cast iron slab\non which it is spread while the matches are\nbeing dipped. If gum is used, all the opera-\ntions may be more easily performed, as the\nmaterials can be mixed cold but the matches\nmade with gum are easily spoiled by damp.\nChlorate Matches.— Prep. Chlorate of potassa,\n30 grn.; flowers of sulphur, 10 grn.; powdered\nlump sugar, 8 grn.; powdered gum arabic, 5 grn.;\nvermilion, enough to color. Proc. Reduce\nthe chlorate to fine powder in a marble or\nWedgwood ware mortar, then place it on a\nstone slab, add the other«ingredients, and mix\nthem all together with a wooden or bone\nknife, adding just sufficient water to make a\npaste. Into this mixture the points of matches,\nmade of slips of thin wood or pasteboard, are\nto be dipped, and afterward carefully dried in\na moderately warm situation.\nEnglish Matches. Two parts fine glue soaked\nIn water till quite soft, 4 parts water, heated\ntogether in a water bath till quite fluid; re-\nmove the vessel from the bath, and add 1% to 2\nparts phosphorus, agitating the mixture\nbriskly and continually with a stirrer having\nwooden pegs or bristles projecting beneath.\nWhen the mass is uniform, 4 or 5 parts chlorate\nof potash, 3 or 4 parts powdered glass, and suffi-\ncient coloring matter in the form of red lead,\nsmalts, etc., are cautiously added, and the\nwhole is stirred till cool.\nFriction:\nFine glue 2 parts.\nWater 4 parts.\nPhosphorus 1H to 2 parts.\nPotassium chlorate 4 to 5 parts.\nPowdered glass 3 to 4 parts.\nRed or white lead or smalt sufficient to\ncolor.\nParlor\nDry the splints and immerse the ends in\nmelted stearine. Then dip in following mix-\nture and dry\nPhosphorus (red) 3 parts.\nGum arabic or tragacanth 0*5 part.\nWater 3 parts.\nSand (finely ground) 2 parts.\nBinoxide of lead 2 parts.\nPerfume by dipping in a solution of benzoic\nacid.\nMatches without Phosphorus.— 1. For the pro-\nduction of these lucifers a mixture of from 4\nto 6 parts of chlorate of potash and 2 parts\neach of bichromate of potash and of oxide of\niron or lead, with 3 parts strong glue is used.\nFor the igniting surface, a mixture of 29 parts\nsulphate of antimony, 2 to 4 parts bichromate\nof potash, 4 to 6 parts oxide of either iron, lead\nor manganese, 2 parts of glass powder and\nfrom 2 to 3 parts strong glue or gum. These\nmatches will ignite only on the friction surface\nthus prepared.\n2. For the match heads a mixture of chlorate\nof potash and a compound of hyposulphurous\nacid with soda, ammonia and oxide and sub-\noxide of copper. This compound is formed by\ndividing a solution of copper into two equal\nparts, supersaturating one of them with ammo-\nnia and the other with hyposulphate of soda;\nthen mixing the two solutions and stirring the\nmixture well, a violet powder precipitates. One\npart of it is to be mixed with 2 parts of the\nchlorate of potash, and a small quantity of\npounded glass. Lucifers made in this way are,\nhowever, objectionable, from the fact that they\nwill ignite on any rough substance, even more\neasily than the common kind.\n3. The following is one of the best receipts\nfor composition match tips without phospho-\nrus. It is the same as that used in preparing\nthe well known U. and P. matches and does not\nrequire a separate rubber or prepared sur-\nface:\nPotassium chlorate 26 oz.\nManganese, black oxide 25 oz.\nPotassium bichromate 20 oz.\nLead cyanide 20 oz.\nAntimony oxysulphide 20 oz.\nGlass powder 4 oz.\nThese substances are first powdered sepa-\nrately and then gradually mixed into a solution\nof 1 lb. gum in 4 lb. water, to form a thick,\nsmooth paste; with this paste the dry wood\nsplinters are tipped, and after about eighteen\nhours exposure to the air in a drying room,\nkept at about 80° Fah., the matches are ready\nfor boxing. To render the matches non ab-\nsorbent of moisture or waterproof, they are mo-\nmentarily dipped into a liquid composed of:\nShellac, best white 1 lb.\nAlcohol, or wood naphtha 1 qt.\ndigested together in a closed vessel for several\ndays with occasional agitation, then strained\nthrough fine linen cloth.\nSafety Matches. 1. Dip the splints in a paste\ncomposed of chlorate of potash, 6 parts; sul-\nphide of antimony, 2 to 3 parts; glue, weighed\ndry, 1 part. The paste for the rubbing surface\nis amorphous phosphorus, 10 parts; oxide of\nmanganese, or sulphide of antimony, 8 parts;\nglue, 3 to 6 parts, weighed dry. The ingredi-\nents must be thoroughly mixed, and care must\nbe taken not to mix the chlorate of potash in\nthe dry state with the other materials; it should\nbe mixed first with glue dissolved in warm\nwater. The paste for the rubbing surface may\nbe spread with a brush or spatula on the side of\nthe box.\n2. Glue, 16 parts; chrome yellow, 2 parts;\noxide of iron, 2 parts; peroxide of manganese,\n24 parts; hyposulphite of lead, 8 parts; and\nchlorate of potash, 36 parts. Composition for\nthe box.— Hyposulphite of lead, 260 parts;\nchlorate of potash, 14 parts; oxide of iron, 7\nparts; powdered glass, 8 parts; finest glue, 4\nparts; and amorphous phosphorus, 24 parts.\nGlue is dissolved in water; other ingredients\nbeing in powder, are afterward mixed with it\nto the consistence of paint and applied with a\nbrush to the surface of the box.\nSilent Matches.— 1. Dissolve 16 parts gum arabic\nin least possible quantity of water, triturate in\n9 parts powdered phosphorus and add 14 parts\nniter, 16 parts vermilion or binoxide of man-\nganese, and form the whole into a paste.\n2. Six parts glue soaked in a little cold water\nfor twenty-four hours, and liquified by tritura-\ntion in a heated mortar; add 4 parts phospho-\nrus and rub down at a heat not exceeding 150°\nF. (66° C); mix in 10 parts powdered niter and\nthen 5 parts red ocher and 2 parts smalts and\nform the whole into a uniform paste.\n3. Instead of phosphorus, lead sulphocyanate\nmixed with precipitated antimony sulphide is\ntreated in the moist state with an oxygenous\nsubstance, such as potassium chlorate, with in-\ndifferent coloring and rubbing agents, such as","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0339.jp2"},"336":{"fulltext":"Matches.\n324\nMats.\nglass, quartz, pumice powder, ultramarine, etc.,\nand with glutinous substances, such as glue,\ngum and dextrine. The mixture is used in\nplace of the materials employed for igniting\nsulphur matches, wax lights, etc.— H. Schwa/rz.\n4. The following is the recipe given by Ber-\nzelius Weigh out 30 parts powdered chlorate of\npotash, 10 parts of powdered sulphur, 8 parts of\nsugar and 5 parts of gum arabic, with a little\ncinnabar to communicate color. The sugar,\ngum and salt are first rubbed together into a\nthin paste with water. The sulphur is then\nadded and the whole been thoroughly beaten\ntogether, small brimstone matches are dipped\nin, so as to retain a thin coat of the mixture\nupon their sulphured ends. When quite dry\nthey are fit for use.\nSwedish. 1. Matches from Sweden were found\nto be tipped with an igniting composition\nmade up of the following substances\nIn 100 parts.\nGlass 8-77\nGlue 7*13\nPotassic bichromate 5 59\nPotassic chlorate 46*76\nFerric oxide 4*09\nManganese 13*07\nSulphur 7*41\nIt is supposed that the following proportions\nwere employed in the manufacture of the com-\nposition\nGlass 1341b.\nGlue 1 lb.\nPotassic bichromate lb.\nPotassic chlorate 6% lb.\nFerric oxide y% lb.\nManganese 2 lb.\nSulphur 1 lb.\nIn consequence of the small proportion of\noxygen yielding substances to sulphur, a large\nquantity of sulphurous acid is evolved on ignit-\ning the mass.\n2. In another composition, likewise from\nSweden, Wiederhold found to 1 of sulphur\n21 of potassic chlorate. This composition yield-\ned no free sulphurous acid, the sulphur being\nwholly oxidized to sulphuric acid.— Dingier s\nPolyt. Joum.\nMatches without Sulphur.— Char the ends of\nthe splints with red hot iron, dip them into a\nthin layer of stearic acid or wax, melted in a\nflat-bottomed tinned copper pan. The dipping\npaste for these matches is ordinary phosphorus,\n3 parts; strong glue, 3 5 parts; water, 3 parts:\nfine sand, 2*0 parts; coloring matter, 0*1 to 0 5\nparts; chlorate of potash, 3 parts. These\nmatches burn readily, with a bright flame, and\nhave no^unpleasant smell. Amorphous phos-\nphorus not being poisonous or liable to acci-\ndental ignition, is preferable to ordinary phos-\nphorus. The paste used is amorphous phos-\nphorus, 3 parts; chlorate of potash, 4 parts;\nglue, 2*5 parts; water, 5 parts; pounded glass, 2\nparts.\nVestas. Vestas are tipped with similau in-\ngredients, but the taper being less rigid than\nwood, a larger proportion of phosphorus is\nadded.\nVesuvians. The heads of vesuvians are made\nup principally with powdered charcoal and\nsaltpeter in some such proportions as the fol-\nlowing Eighteen parts saltpeter, 19 parts char-\ncoal, 7 parts powdered glass, 5 or 6 parts gum\narabic; to these ingredients are added a little\nscent in the form of satinwood, lignum- vitae\ndust, cascarilla bark or gum benzoin, which\nrenders them fragrant while burning. The ig-\nniting composition is identical with safety\nmatches.\nMatrices, Paper. Paper matrices for\nmaking stereotype plates from type forms, used\nin newspaper offices, are prepared as follows\nMake a jelly paste of flour, starch and whiting.\nDampen a sheet of soft blotting paper, cover\nits surface with the paste, lay thereon a sheet\nof fine tissue paper, cover the surface with\npaste, and so on until four to six sheets of the\ntissue paper have been laid on. The combined\nsheet thus made is then placed, tissue face\ndown, upon the form of types, which are pre-\nviously dusted with whiting, and with a brush\ndriven down upon the types and thereon al-\nlowed to dry. The operation of drying is facil-\nitated by having the types warmed by placing\nthem upon a steam heated table. A blanket is\nplaced over the paper during the drying opei*a-\ntion. There is a better process in which a spe-\ncial kind of tissue paper is used.\nMatrices, Paste for. See Pastes.\nMats.— To Prepare Sheepskins for Mats.— 1.\nMake a strong lather with hot water and let it.\nstand till cold; wash the skin in it, carefully\nsqueezing out all the dirt from the wool; wash\nit in cold water till all the soap is taken out.\nDissolve 1 lb. each of salt and alum in 2 gal. of\nhot water, and put the skin into a tub sufficient\nto cover it; let it soak for twelve hours, and\nhang it over a pole to drain. When well drain-\ned stretch it caref ully on a board to dry, and\nstretch several times while drying. Before it is-\nquite dry, sprinkle on the flesh side 1 oz. each of\nfinely pulverized alum and saltpeter, rubbing it\nin well. Try if the wool be firm on the skin; if\nnot, let it remain a day or two, then rub again\nwith alum; fold the flesh sides together and\nhang in the shade for two or three days, turning\nthem over each day till quite dry. Scrape the\nflesh side with a blunt knife and rub it with\npumice or rotten stone.\n2. Fur skins are tanned by first removing all\nthe useless parts and softening the skin by soak-\ning, then remove the fatty matter from the\ninside and soak it in warm water for an hour.\nNext mix equal parts of borax, saltpeter, and\nsulphate of soda in the proportion of about\noz. of each for each skin, with sufficient water\nto make a thin paste; spread this with a brush\nover the inside of the skin, applying more on\nthe thicker parts than on the thinner; double\nthe skin toget her, flesh side inward, and place\nit in a cool place. After standing twenty-four\nhours wash the skin clean, and apply in the\nsame manner as before a mixture of 1 oz. sal\nsoda, J^ oz. borax, and 2 oz. hard white soap,\nmelted slowly together without being allowed\nto boil; fold together and put away in a warm\nplace for twenty-four hours. After this, dis-\nsolve 4 oz. alum, 8 bz. salt, and 2 oz. saleratus\nin sufficient hot rain water to saturate the\nskin; when cool enough not to scald the hands,\nsoak the skin in it for twelve hours; then wring\nout and hang it up to dry. When dry repeat\nthe soaking and drying two or three times till\nthe skin is sufficiently soft. Lastly, smooth the\ninside with fine sandpaper and pumice stone.\n3. Another description of the process. Wash\nwhile fresh, in strong soapsuds, first picking\nfrom the wool all the dirt that will come out.\nA little paraffine, a tablespoonf ul to 3 gal. of\nwater, will aid in removing the impurities.\nContinue to wash the skin in fresh euds till it-\nis white and clean. Then dissolve y ib. each of\nsalt and alum in 3 pt. of boiling water, put into\nit water enough to cover the skin, which should\nsoak in the solution twelve hours, and then be\nhung on a line to drain. When nearly dry nail\nit, wool side in, on a board, or the side f a\nbarn, to dry. Rub into the skin an ounce each\nof pulverized alum and saltpeter, and if the\nskin is large double the quantity. Rub for an\nhour or two. Fold the skin sides together, and\nhang the skin away for three days, rubbing it\nevery day or till perfectly dry. Then with a\nblunt knife clear the skin of impurities, rub it\nwith pumice or rotten stone, trim it into shape,\nand you have a door mat that will last a life-\ntime. If it is to be dyed, have a shallow vessel\nas large as the skin in which to prepare the\ndye, so that the skin can be laid wool side down\nsmoothly into the vessel, that all parts may be\nequally immersed in the dye. This should not-","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0340.jp2"},"337":{"fulltext":"Mayonnaise.\n325\nMeat.\n*be more than an inch deep, otherwise the skin\nmight be injured by the hot dye. After color-\ning again stretch the skin to dry, and then\ncomb with a wool or cotton card. English Me-\nchanic. See also Tanning.\nMatt. See Regulus.\nMatting, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nMayonnaise\nPowdered turmeric 1 oz.\nPowdered tragacanth 1 oz.\nOlive oil 8 oz.\nEggs .8 oz.\nWater b% pt.\nGround mustard 1% oz.\nSalt 8 oz.\nAcetic acid (glacial) 2 oz.\nTincture of capsicum I v/ 07\n(Or according to taste.) f r2\nSugar 1 lb.\nMix the first three ingredients in a mortar\n■capable of holding one gallon, then add the\neggs, which have been whipped previously, and\nincorporate thoroughly until an emulsion is\nformed; next mix separately the mustard and\nwater, allow to stand ten or fifteen minutes, or\nuntil the flavor is fully developed, then add the\nlast four ingredients, mix and add the liquid\ngradually to the contents of the mortar. It\n«hould make a smooth, uniform emulsion;\nfinally, strain through cheese cloth.\nThis is a seasonable preparation, and may\nserve not only for the delectation of the phar-\nmacist himself, but would furnish an article of\nsale as well.— Pharm. Era.\nMead.— Mead is an old fashioned beverage,\nbut a very pleasant one, if care is taken in\nmaking it. It is generally made over strong,\ntoo much honey being used to the proportion\nof water. The following is a good recipe\n1. On 30 lb. honey (clarified) pour 13 gal. soft\nwater, boiling hot. Clarify with the whites of\neggs, well beaten; boil again, remove all scum\nas it rises, add 1 oz. of best hops, and boil for\nten minutes, then pour the liquor into a tub to\ncool, spreading a slice of toast on both sides\nwith yeast, and putting it into the tub when\nthe liquor is nearly cold. The tub should stand\nin a warm room. When fermentation has thor-\noughly begun, pour the mixture into a cask,\nand as it works off, fill up the cask, keeping\nback some of the liquor for this purpose. Bung\ndown closely when fermentation has ceased,\nleaving a peg hole, which can be closed up in a\nfew days. Let it remain a year in the cask be-\nfore bottling off.\n2. To 15 lb. honey add 8 gal. of water; clarify\nthe honey with white of eggs; boil for ten\nminutes, and keep thoroughly skimmed; add a\nhandful of mixed herbs, thyme, rosemary tops\nand bay leaves; boil for half an hour more;\nstrain the mixture into a tub upon 5 pt. ground\nmalt; stir well together, and, when lukewarm,\nstrain through a cloth into another tub; work\nit with yeast, and when fermentation is set up,\n{)our it into a cask. Suspend in the cask a mus-\nin bag containing sliced ginger, Yz oz.; J4 oz.\neach of cloves, nutmeg and mace, well bruised;\nbung up tightly when it has ceased working,\nletting the bag of spices remain. It should\nstand in the wood for a year and then be bottled\noff.\nSack Mead.— To every gallon of water allow\n4 lb. honey; boil for three-quarters of an hour,\nskimming well; to each gallon of liquor add\nH oz. hops; boil again for a quarter of an hour;\nEour it into a tuf and let stand for twenty-four\nours, w orking with yeast; then pour into the\ncask, an( i to 13 gal. of liquor allow 1 qt. sack.\nClose lightly until all fermentation has ceased,\nthen bung up close. If a large cask, allow a\nyear in wood before bottling off.\nAmerican mead is made with cider. Take 20\nlb. honey and 12 gal. good cider, and blend them\ntogether in a tub; ferment with yeast, then\npour into a cask and add Vn gal. rum, J4 gal.\nFrench brandy, 4 oz. red tartar, dissolved, and\ny% oz. cloves. Bung down close when it has\nceased working and bottle off at the end of\nthree months; it will be fit for use three months\nafterward.\nMeasures, Etc. See Appendix.\nMeat, Preservation of. See also Anti-\nseptics.\nMeat, to Preserve.— Dr. Richardson says\nthat putrefactive changes in meat are due to\nthe decomposition of the water contained in\nthe tissues. The means which have been found\nto arrest this decomposition are, first, a low\ntemperature; second, a high state of desicca-\ntion; third, the application of antiseptics;\nfourth, the exclusion of air.\nRefrigeration.— Subjection to a low tempera-\nture is a thoroughly effective way of preserv-\ning meat, but it can be considered only as tem-\nporary, decomposition ensuing when the cold\nstate is abandoned. Nevertheless, its effects\nare sufficiently lasting to serve practical ends,\nand the process seems most likely to solve the\nproblem of conveying large quantities of fresh\nmeat to foreign countries. Numerous plans\nhave been devised, all aiming at the production\nof a sufficiently low temperature at a remun-\nerative cost. The principal are\n1. Harrison s. The meat is first frozen and is\nthen packed in a chamber on board ship, the\nair of which is maintained in a thoroughly dry\nstate, so as to keep up a slow but constant\nevaporation from the surface of the meat. The\nmeat is placed in tanks, which are kept cool by\ndirecting a stream of brine among ice, and\nregulating the strength of the brine so as to\nproduce the desired degree of cold. The ice\nand brine are kept in tanks above the meat,\nand from them streams constantly trickle over\nand around the meat tanks. The consumption\nof ice is less than 50 tons for 50 tons of meat,\nand the proportion decreases with larger quan-\ntities. The meat retains its full flavor and will\nkeep good in a temperature of 63° to 68° F. (17°\nto 20° C.) for seventy or eighty hours after re-\nmoval from the tanks. The drawback is the\nbulk of ice required.\n2. Tellier s. The joints of meat are placed in\na chamber; through which is passed a current\nof air charged with ether or other volatile sub-\nstance, so as to reduce the temperature suffi-\nciently low to preserve the meat without freez-\ning its juices.\n3. Mort and Nicolle s. In this process the\nfreezing agent is ammonia solution under a\npressure of 50 to 70 lb. a square inch. The\nfreezing room is kept below 32° P. (0° C.) and\nthe meat is frozen quite hard.\n4. Poggiale s.— A low temperature is main-\ntained by the evaporation of methylic ether\nand circulation of chloride of calcium.\n5. Professor F. Sacc s (Neuf chatel, Switzer-\nland) process for curing meat by submitting it\nto the action of acetate of soda is very simple.\nArrange the meat in a ban-el, deposit about\nand on it powdered acetate of soda to about\nthe quarter of the weight of the meat. In\nsummer the action takes place immediately; in\nwinter it is necessary to place the vessels in a\nroom warmed to about 68° F. The salt ab-\nsorbs the water of the meat; after twenty-\nfour hours the pieces are turned and the lower\nplaced uppermost. In forty-eight hours the\naction is finished and the pieces are packed in\nbarrels with their brine, or dry in the air. If\nthe barrels are not full, it suffices to fill up with\nthe brine made by dissolving 1 part (by weight)\nof the acetate of soda in 3 parts of water. The\npieces may be of ordinary size, and when re-\nquired for use may be freed from the salt by\nwashing in running water. The dry acetate of\nsoda may be recovered from the brine by\nevaporating off the water over a fire.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0341.jp2"},"338":{"fulltext":"Meerschaum.\n326\nMetal.\n6. According to Mr. E. Polenske, the compo-\nsition of some of the preparations employed in\ncommerce for the preservation of meat is as\nfollows: Sozolithe:\nSulphite of ammonia 37 3#\nSulphurous acid 39 7%\nSoda 21\nWater 2\n7. Concentrated berlinite\nCrystallized borax 82*7$\nBoric acid 9*8#\nChloride of sodium.. 7 5#\n8. Poechel berlinite:\nChloride of sodium .45*9$\nNitrateof potash 32 3#\nBoric acid ..W\nWater 2 5#\n9. The Minerva Chinese preservative powder\nChloride of sodium 25\nBoric acid 17*7#\nSulphate of soda 38 8#\nSulphite of soda 9 2#\nWater 9*3^\n10. Australian salt\nCrystallized borax 94\nChloride of sodium 5 5%\nWith 0 5% of some hydrocarburet.\n11. Ruger s barmenite\nBoric acid 50%\nChloride of sodium 50$\n12. The True Australian Meat Preservative.—\nAccording to analyses of three specimens from\ndifferent sources, this is bisulphite of lime.\nThis is what is unwittingly employed in solu-\ntions by butchers, on summer afternoons, for\npainting their meat. It is sold to them under\nvarious fantastic names. The liquid is nothing\nbut a solution of lime in sulphurous acid, and is\nused every day in brewing as a disinfecting\nagent. The bisulphite of lime, applied to meat,\npreserves it from the attack of flies and keeps\nit looking well. There is no danger attending\nthe use of it, since a portion of the sulphurous\nacid volatilizes, and the sulphite changes into\nsulphate of lime or plaster, which, as well\nknown, is innocuous. A simple washing, more-\nover, suffices to remove the sulphite com-\npletely at the moment of preparing the meat.\nThis preservative agent is particularly valu-\nable during the heat of summer, and the use of\nit can be very safely recommended. In com-\nmerce, it is found in a more or less concen-\ntrated solution containing\nNo. 1. No. 2.\nSulphite of lime. 36 73^ 11*04#\nSulphurous acid 20 46^ 30 W\n—Chronique Industrielle.\nMedicinal Soaps. See Soaps.\nMedium.— Anything in which pigments\nare mixed, such as oil, turpentine, etc.\nMeeu Fun. See Powders.\nMeerschaum.- This mineral is a hydrous\nsilicate of magnesia it occurs in veins and\nnodules. It comes chiefly from Asia Minor.\nIts composition is silica, 60 parts; magnesia\n28 parts water, 12 parts. Its principal use,\nfor making the bowls of pipes.\nMeerschaum, Artificial-— Hardened gypsum,\nboiled with stearic acid or paraffine, much re-\nsembles meerschaum. The resemblance may\nbe much increased by coloring the mixture\nwith solution of gamboge and dragon sblood.\nMeei~schaum,.to Cement. See Cements.\nMeerschaum, to Boil and Color.— The bowls of\nthe pipes, when imported into Germany, are\nprepared for sale by soaking them first in tal-\nlow, then in wax, and finally by polishing them\nwith share grass. The coloring process as con-\nducted by dealers is secret. The coloring for\npipes is performed by a secret process, prob-\nably using some solvent of nicotine.\nMeerschaum, to Color.— Ordinarily the pipe is\nboiled for coloring in a preparation of wax\nwhich is absorbed, and a thin coating of wax is\nheld on the surface of the pipe, and made to\ntake a high polish. Under the wax is retained\nthe oil of tobacco, which is absorbed by the\npipe, and its hue grows darker in proportion to\nthe tobacco used. A meerschaum pipe at first\nshould be smoked very slowly, and before a sec-\nond bowlful is lighted the pipe should cool off.\nThis is to keep the wax as far up on the bowl\nas possible, and rapid smoking will overheat,\ndriving the wax off and leaving the pipe dry\nand raw. A new pipe should never be smoked\noutdoors in extremely cold weather.\n2. Fill the pipe and smoke down about one-\nthird, or to the height to which you wish to\ncolor. Leave the remainder of the tobacco in\nthe pipe and do not empty or disturb it for sev-\neral weeks, or until the desired color is ob-\ntained. When smoking, put fresh tobacco\non the top and smoke to the same level.\n3. When once burnt the pipe cannot be satis-\nfactorily colored, unless the burnt portion is\nremoved and the surface again treated by the\nprocess by which meerschaum is prepared. The\ncoloring is produced by action of the smoke\nupon the oils and wax which are superficially\non the exterior of the pipe, and are applied in\nthe process of manufacture.\nSubstitute for Meersch aum (Bertolio s) —Make\na hot solution of silicate of potash. Place in it\ncarbonate of magnesia cut in small pieces. Let\nthe pieces remain in the solution a few days,\nand then dry. Repeat several times, using a fresh\nhot solution of water glass, instead of silicate of\npotash. Expose the pieces to the air for a few\nmonths. In six or seven months the pieces are\nhard enough to be worked and closely resemble\nmeerschaum.\n2. Make a solution of 4 parts of sulphuric\nacid in 50 parts of water. Treat peeled pota-\ntoes with this solution for thirty-six hours.\nDry the mass between blotting paper and\npress. Pipes may be made of this material\nwhich closely resemble meerschaum. By using\nvery strong pressure, billiard balls have been\nmade, closely resembling ivory. The material\ncan be carved.\nMelting Points.\nEffects of.\nSee Temperature,\nMenthol.— Menthol cories are made by mix-\ning menthol with various waxes. It is the\nproximate principal in oil of peppermint, and\ncan be obtained by cooling the oil to 15° C M\nwhereupon the menthol crystallizes out of the\noil.\nMercury, to Purify.— Place the mercury\nin a deep vessel with dilute acid over it, and\nintroduce a piece of copper into it, weight-\ning the copper to make good contact. The\nlocal action dissolves all impurities. If contin-\nued too long the mercury becomes a sulphate.\nMercury, to Remove from Gold.- Heat\nit very carefully to a temperature of 100°\nFah. It is best to intrust it to a jeweler, if\nnot experienced, as you may melt it.\nMetal.— A metal is an. element possessing a\nluster, and the higher oxides of which only are\nacid-forming compounds. Metals have the\nfollowing properties, a specific gravity usually\ngreater than one. The specific heat is less than\nunity, and this heat varies inversely as the\natomic weight of that element. The conductiv-\nity of the metals is greater than that of either\nthe non-metals or their compounds.\nThe influence of heat upon metals is very\nvaried some melt at a low temperature, others\nrequire a red heat, a strong red, or a white","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0342.jp2"},"339":{"fulltext":"Metals.\n337\nMetallography.\nheat respectively, to melt them. The follow-\ning table, by Pouillet, will explain the tempera-\ntures corresponding to different colors\nCorresponds to\nIncipient red heat\nDull red\nIncipient cherry red\nCherry red\nClear cherry red\nDeep orange\nClear orange\nWhite\nBright white\nDazzling white\n525° C.\n977°\n700\n1,393\n800\n1,473\n900\n1,653\n1,000\n1,833\n1,100\n3,013\n1.300\n3,193\n1,300\n3,373\n1,400\n3,553\n1,500\n3,732\nF.\nMetals, to Black, Blue, Brown,\nClean, Gild, Silver, Weld, etc. See the\nnames of the operation to be performed, and\nalso the name of the metal.\nMetal, Cements for. See Cements.\nMetal Cleansing Soap. See Soaps.\nMetals, Coloring of. See the name of\nthe metal to be colored, and also Bluing,\nBrowning, Bronzing, Blacking, etc.\nMetal, Fancy Coloring of. The coloring\nmatter of small objects in metal has re-\ncently occupied the attention of manufac-\nturers and chemists, and M. Pushec, a German\nchemist, gives the following recipes for the ap-\nplication of sulphur to the purpose referred\nto 1. A solution is made in the following man-\nner Dissolve 4 oz. of the hyposulphite of soda\nin iy pt. of water, and then add a solution of 1\noz. of acetate of lead in the same quantity of\nwater. Articles to be colored are placed in the\nmixture, which is then gradually heated to a\nboiling point. The effect of this solution is to\ngive iron the effect of blue steel zinc becomes\nbronze and copper or brass becomes success-\nively yellowish, red, scarlet, deep blue, light\nblue, bluish white, and finally white, with a\ntinge of rose. This solution has no effect on\nlead or tin.\n3. By replacing the acetate of lead in the solu-\ntion by sulphate of copper, brass becomes first\nof a fine rosy tint, then green, and finally\nof an iridescent brown color. Zinc does not\ncolor in this solution— it throws down a preci-\npitate of brown sulphuret of copper; but if\nboiled in a solution containing both lead and\ncopper, it becomes covered with a black adher-\nent crust, which may be improved by a thin\ncoating of wax.\n3. If the lead solution be thickened with a\nlittle gum tragacanth, and patterns be traced\nwith it on brass, which is afterward heated to\n313° F, and then plunged in solution No. 1, a\ngood marked effect is produced.\nColored Films on Metals.— According to the\nprevailing fashion, the small metallic articles\nused for ladies ornaments, such as buttons,\nbuckles, clasps, etc., have different colored\nfilms produced on them by various methods.\nSome of these are known as oxidized silver.\nRainbow colors are produced on brass but-\ntons by stringing them on a copper wire by\nthe eyes, and dipping them in a bath of plum-\nbate of soda freshly prepared by boiling li-\ntharge in caustic soda and pouring it into a\nporcelain dish. A linen bag of finely pulver-\nized litharge or hydrated oxide of lead is sus-\npended in the solution, so as to keep up the\noriginal strength of the solution. While the\nbuttons are in this solution, they are touched\none after the other with a platinum wire con-\nnected with the positive pole of a battery until\nthe desired color appears. The galvanic cur-\nrent employed must not be too strong. The\ncolors are more brilliant if they are heated after\nthey have been rinsed and dried.\nColored films are more conveniently pro-\nduced upon bright brass by different chemicals,\nby painting with them or by immersion. For\nexample:\nGolden Yellow.— By dipping in a perfectly\nneutral solution of acetate of copper.\nDull Grayish Green.— Repeatedly painting\nwith very dilute solution of chloride of cop-\nper.\nPurple. Heating them hot and rubbing over\nwith a tuft of cotton suturated with chloride\nof antimony.\nGolden Red.— A paste made of 4 parts of\nprepared chalk and one part of mosaic gold.\nIn covering an article with any colored\nbronze in powder, it is first rubbed with a very\nlittle linseed oil, and the bronze dusted evenly\nover it from a dust bag. It is afterward\nheated in an iron pan to about 480° F.\nIn recent times small articles are also rough-\nened by dipping in strong nitric acid, and,\nafter washing and drying, they are coated with\na rapidly drying alcohol varnish that has been\ncolored yellow with picric acid, red with f uch-\nsine, purple with methyl violet, or dark blue\nwith an aniline blue. This gives the desired color\nwith a beautiful metallic luster. These latter\ncolors are not very durable, and are used for\ninferior goods.— N. Erfind.\nMetal, Enamel for. See Enameling*\nMetals, Lacquers for. See Lacquers.\nMelting Points of Metals.\nMetals.\nCentigrade\ndegrees.\nFahrenheit\ndegrees.\nAntimony.\n700\n435\n185\n364\n320\n1,300\n1,091\n1,381\n176\n1,530\n1,300\n1,400\n334\n335\n—40\n1,600\n63\n3,600\n1,040\n96\n335\n413\n1,393\n797\n365\nBismuth\n507 3\nCobalt\n608\n3,193\n1,995-8\n2,485*8\nGold\n348*8\nIron, wrought..\nIron, steel\n3,786\n3,193\n3,553\nLead\n617\n455\nPotassium\n—40\n3,913\n143-6\nPlatinum\nSodium\n4,713\n1,904\n173*8\nTin\n455\n773*6\nMetal Objects, to Find the Weight\nof.— To find the weight in pounds of metal ob-\njects, measure the number of cubic inches con-\ntained in the piece for wrought iron by 3816\ncast iron, 0-3607; copper, 033418; lead, 0-41015\nbrass, 0 3113.\nMetals, Paints for. See Paints.\nBelative Conducting Power of Met-\nals.— The following table gives the relative\nconducting power of pure metals and other\nconductors according to Dr. Matthiessen\nSilver 100*0\nCopper 99-9\nGold 77-9\nZinc 39*0\nCadmium 33 7\nPalladium 18*4\nPlatinum 18*0\nCobalt 17*3\nNickel 13*1\nTin 13-4\nMetals, to Silver.\nThallium 9-3\nLead 8 3\nArsenic ...4 8\nAntimony 4*6\nMercury 1 6\nBismuth 1*3\nGraphite 0-069\nGas coke 0*038\nBunsen s coke 0*035\nSee Silvering.\nMetallography (method for producing\ndrawings of all kinds in relief upon metal)\nZach.— Grind and polish the surface of a zinc\nplate and cover it with a ground composed of\nwhite wax, 3 parts; mastic, 3 parts; asphalt, 1J^\nparts; colophony, part, Smoke with a wax","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0343.jp2"},"340":{"fulltext":"Methesrlin.\n328\nMicroscopy.\ntorch until it has a luster. Execute the draw-\ning on this ground with a graver. Surround\nthe plate with a rim of wax; etch fifteen to\ntwenty minutes with dilute nitric acid. Wash\nwith water, cover the fine lines, if desired, with\nasphalt dissolved in oil of turpentine. Con-\ntinue the etching fifteen to twenty minutes\nlonger. Dissolve off the ground with oil of\nturpentine and clean the plate. A sunk draw-\ning is obtained in this way which must have\nsuch a depth that a casting made from it will\nhave sufficient relief to allow of its being\nprinted from in a printing press. A drawing in\nrelief may be obtained from this matrix suit-\nable for printing, in the following way. Make\na readily fusible metal, bismuth, 3J^ parts; lead,\n2 parts; tin, 2 parts. Melt. Place the etched\ndrawing in a heated mould and pour the melted\nfusible metal over it vertically. The drawing\nwill lie in relief upon the casting.\nMetheglin. From honey, 1 cwt.; warm\nwater, 24 gal.; stir well until dissolved; the next\nday add of yeast, 1 pt., and hops, 1 lb., previ-\nously boiled in water, 1 gal., along with water\nq. s. to make the whole measure 1 barrel; mix\nwell and ferment the whole with the usual pre-\ncautions adopted for other liquors. It con-\ntains on the average from 7% to alcohol.\nMethyl.— Wood alcohol; it has a peculiar\nodor. Methylated Spirit. Ordinary alcohol\nwhen mixed with 10$ methyl. See Alcohol.\nMetric Measures. See Appendix.\nMica, Cement for. See Cements.\nMica, to Pulverize.— When mica is heated\nto redness for some time in a muffle and then\nallowed to cool rather quickly the laminae be-\ncome distorted and the sheets present a silvery-\nwhite appearance by reflected light, the min-\neral losing much of its flexibility. The dust of\nthis whitened mica is used to some extent by\nthe French as a silver bronze powder. Mixed\nwith a weak solution of gum arabic it makes a\ngood silver ink. The powder is sometimes\nvariously tinted by washes of very dilute col-\nored solutions of gums or varnishes. To pre-\npare the glistening powder the sheets of whit-\nened mica are simply crushed, not ground,\nboiled in hydrochloric acid, rinsed, dried, and\nassorted to size of laminae. The finer filaments\nhave a pearly luster and are made to adhere to\nsemi-softened gelatine and wax to imitate\npearl. The silvery powder is used on metals,\nglass, wood, paper, plaster, tapestry and fur-\nniture. It has also been used in calico print-\ning in place of the heavy bronze and glass dust\nof Lyons fabrics, and for the decoration of\nchina and glassware.\nMice, to Destroy.— 1. Use tartar emetic\nmingled with some favorite food. The mice\nwill leave the premises.\n2. Take 1 part calomel, 5 parts wheat flour,\n1 part sugar, and T part of ultramarine. Mix\ntogether in a fine powder and place in a dish.\nThis is a most efficient poison for mice.\n3. Any one desirous of keeping seeds from\nthe depredations of mice can do so by mixing\npieces of camphor gum in with the seeds. Cam-\nphor placed in drawers or trunks will prevent\nmice from doing them injury. The little ani-\nmal objects to the odor and keeps a good dis-\ntance from it. He will seek food elsewhere.\n4. Gather any kind of mint and scatter about\nyour shelves, and they will forsake the prem-\nises.\nMicrocosmic Salt.— This salt is sodium-am-\nmonium phosphate, with the symbol HNa NH 4\nPO4 4 H 2 O. To prepare, dissolve 5 parts\nsodium phosphate with 2 parts ammonium\nphosphate in hot water, and allow the solu-\ntion to cool. It is used in blowpipe analysis.\nMicroscopy.— This subject is arranged in\nalphabetical order as closely as possible. Good\nmicroscopical receipts are rare. The following\ncome from the best authorities. The major-\nity of the receipts are not adapted to the use\nof the beginner, who should consult such books\nas Geo. E. Davis Practical Microscopy Many\nof the receipts, as well as the introduction, are\nfrom Lee.\nIntroduction. —The methods of modern mi-\ncroscopic anatomy may be roughly classed as\nGeneral and Special. There is a General or\nNormal method, known as the method of sec-\ntions, which consists in carefully fixing the\nstructures to be examined, staining them with\na nuclear stain, dehydrating with alcohol, and\nmounting series of sections of the structures\nin balsam. It is by this method that the work\nis blocked out and very often finished. Special\npoints are then studied, if necessary, by special\nmethods, such as examination of the living tis-\nsue elements, in situ, or in indifferent media;\nfixation with special fixing agents; staining\nwith special stains; dissociation by teasing or\nmaceration injection impregnation and the\nlike.\nThe General Method. The first thing to be\ndone with any structure is to fix its histologi-\ncal elements. (This statement applies equally\nto all classes of objects, whether it be desired\nto cut them into sections or to treat them in\nany other special way.) Two things are im-\nplied by the word fixing first, the rapid\nKilling of the element, so that it may not have\ntime to change the form it had during life, but\nis fixed in death in the attitude it normally had\nduring lif e and second, the hardening of it to\nsuch a degree as may enable it to resist without\nfurther change of form the action of the re-\nagents with which it may subsequently be\ntreated. Too much stress can hardly be laid\non this point, which is the most distinctive\nfeature of modern histological practice with-\nout good fixation it is impossible to get good\nstains, or good sections, or preparations good\nin any way.\nThe structure having been duly fixed by one\nof the processes described in the section on fix-\ning agents, is washed in order to remove from\nthe tissues as far as possible all traces of the\nfixing reagent.\nThe kind of liquid with which washing out\nis done is not a matter of indifference. If cor-\nrosive sublimate, for instance, or osmic acid,\nor a solution into which chromic acid or a chro-\nmate enters, have been used for fixing, the\nwashing may be done with water. But if picric\nacid in any form has been used, the washing\nmust be done with alcohol. The reason of this\ndifference is that the first named reagents (and,\nindeed, all the compounds of the heavy metals\nused for fixing) appear to enter into a state of\nchemical combination with the elements of\ntissues, rendering them insoluble in water so\nthat the hardening induced by these agents is\nnot removed by subsequent treatment with\nwater. Picric acid, on the other hand, produces\nonly a very slight hardening of the tissues, and\ndoes not appear to enter into any combination\nwhatever with their elements, as it is entirely\nremovable by treating the tissues with water\nor alcohol. If the removal be effected by means\nof water, the tissue elements are left in a soft\nstate in which they are obnoxious to all the hurt-\nful effects* of water. Alcohol must therefore\nbetaken to remove the picric acid and to effect\nthe necessary hardening at the same time.\nAt the same time that the superfluous fixing\nagent is being removed from the tissues, or as\nsoon as that is done, the water of the tissues\nmust be removed. This is necessary for two\nreasons; firstly, in the interest of preservation,\nthe presence of water being the condition of\nall others that most favors post mortem de-\ncomposition and secondly, because all water\nmust be removed in order to allow the tissues\nto be impregnated with the imbedding material\nnecessary for section cutting, or with the bal-\nsam with which they are to be finally pre-\nserved. (The cases in which aqueous imbed-\nding and preserving media are employed are","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0344.jp2"},"341":{"fulltext":"Microscopy.\n339\nMicroscopy.\nexceptional, and will be treated of in the proper\nplaces.) The dehydration is performed as fol-\nlows: the objects are brought into weak\nalcohol, and are then passed through succes-\nsive alcohols of gradually increased strength—\nfor instance, 50% two hours, 70$ six to twenty-\nfour hours, 80% several hours, 95% two or three\nhours, aboolnie alcohol, time enough for com-\nplete saturation. (Very small objects, so small\nthat section Cutting is not necessary, may be\ndehydrated much quicker than this. Infusoria\nmay be prepared in a few minutes.)\nThe water having been thus completely re-\nmoved, the alcohol is in its turn removed from\nthe tissues, and its place taken by some anhy-\ndrous substance, generally an essential oil,\nwhich is miscible with the material used for\nimbedding. This operation is known as Clear-\ning. It is very important that the passage from\nthe last alcohol to the clearing agent be made\ngradual. This is effectod by placing the clear-\ning medium under the alcohol. A sufficient\nquantity of alcohol is placed in a tube (a watch\n.glass will do, but tubes are generally better),\nand then with a pipette a sufficient quantity of\nclearing medium is introduced at the bottom\nof the alcohol. Or you may first put the clear-\ning medium into the tube, and then carefully\npour the alcohol on to the top of it. The two\nfluids mingle but slowly. The objects to be\ncleared being now quietly put into the super-\nnatent alcohol, float at the surface of separa-\ntion of the two fluids, the exchange of fluids\ntakes place gradually, and the objects slowly\nsink down into the lower layer. When they\nhave sunk to the bottom, the alcohol may be\ndrawn off with a pipette, and the objects will\nbe found to be completely penetrated by the\nclearing medium. (It may be noted here that\nthis method of making the passage from one\nfluid to another applies to all cases in which ob-\njects have to be transferred from a lighter to a\ndenser fluid— for instance, from alcohol, or\nfrom water, to glycerine. It is a more exact\nmethod than that of successive baths of mix-\nture of alcohol and clearing agent.)\nThe objects are now imbedded. They are re-\nmoved from the clearing medium, and soaked\nuntil thoroughly penetrated in the imbedding\nmedium. This is, for small objects, generally\nparaffine, liquefied by heat, and for large ob-\njects generally a solution of collodion or cel-\nloidin. The imbedding- medium containing-\nthe object is then made to solidify, as described\nin the chapter on imbedding processes, and\nsections are made with a microtome through\nthe imbedding mass and the included objects.\nThe sections are then mounted on a slide, the\nimbedding material is removed from them (in\nthe case of paraffine), they are stained in situ on\nthe slide, dehyrated with alcohol, cleared, and\nmounted in balsam or dammar. Or they may\nbe stained, washed, dehydrated, and cleaned in\nwatch glasses, and afterward mounted as de-\nsired, the imbedding medium being first re-\nmoved if desirable.\nIt is not always desirable to remove the im-\nbedding mass; celloidin sections stain well with-\nout being freed from it, and are usually even\ndehydrated, cleared, and mounted without re-\nmoval of the mass, which becomes quite trans-\nparent in balsam. This plan has the advantage,\nAvhich is a very important one for large sec-\ntions, of allowing the sections to remain during-\nthe whole of the manipulations protected by a\nsupporting mass that holds all their parts to-\ngether.\nThe plan of staining sections on the slide is\nof somewhat recent introduction; before it\nhad been worked out the practice was to stain\nstructures in toto, before cutting sections. And\nin cases in which structures are sufficiently\nsmall and permeable to allow of satisfactory\nstaining in this way, and if it be not essential\nto save time, this plan is sometimes as good as\nthe one described. In this case the object,\nafter having been fixed and washed out, is\ntaken from the water, or while still on its way\nthrough the lower alcohols (it should not be\nallowed to proceed to the higher grades of al-\ncohol before staining, if that can be avoided),\nand passed through a bath of stain (generally\nalcoholic borax carmine or other alcoholic\nstain) of sufficient duration, then dehydrated\nwith successive alcohols, passed through a\nclearing medium into paraffine, cut, and treated\nas above described, the sections in this case\nbeing mounted direct from the turpentine,\nnaphtha, or other solvent with which the\nparaffine is removed. If aqueous staining media\nbe employed (and it is sometimes very desira-\nble for particular purposes to prepare spec-\nimens with some aqueous stain) the structures\nshould either be stained in toto immediately\nafter fixing and washing out, or sections may\nbe stained on the slide, the objects being passed\nthrough successive baths of alcohol of grad-\nually decreasing strength before being put into\nthe aqueous stain (a precaution which will not\nbe necessary for chromic objects).\nIt was stated in the first edition of this work\nthat the great majority of preparations are\nmade by fixing either with sublimate or a pic-\nric acid combination, washing- out with alcohol,\nstaining with alcoholic borax carmine, imbed-\nding in chlorof orm-paraffine, cutting with a slid\ning microtome, and mounting the sections in\nseries in Canada balsam. That is probably still\nthe case, but the method can no longer claim\nto be what it then appeared to be, the classi-\ncal method of microscopic anatomy. I sug-\ngest the following, as being quite as easy to\ncarry out, and as giving preparations far richer\nin detail and more truthfully preserved Fix\nin Flemming s chromo-acetoosmic mixture;\nwash out with water; dehydrate; clear with oil\nof cedar wood; imbed in paraffine; mount sec-\ntions on the slide with Mayer s albumen\nmedium; stain with safranine, or double stain\nwith gentian violet and eosin; and mount in\nbalsam or dammar. That or something like\nthat is now the practice of many of the most\nadvanced workers; and I know of no method\nthat seems to have equal claims to be consid-\nered a classical method of general morphologi-\ncal investigation.\nThe treatment of objects which can be\nstudied without being cut into sections is\nidentical with that above described, with the\nomission of those passages that relate to im-\nbedding processes. Its normal course may be\ndescribed as fixation, washing out with alco-\nhol, staining with alcoholic borax carmine, or\nsome other alcoholic stain, treatment with\nsuccessive alcohols of gradually increasing\nstrength, final dehydration with absolute alco-\nhol, clearing, and mounting in balsam. This\nmethod, which may be termed the dehydration\nmethod, is generally preferred, as a general\nmethod, to what may be termed the wet meth-\nods, by which objects are prepai-ed and pre-\nserved in aqueous media. The chief reason for\nthis lies in the great superiority of the dehy-\ndration methods as regards the preservation\nof tissues. The presence of water is the most\nimportant factor in the conditions that bring-\nabout the decomposition of organic matter,\nand its complete removal is the chief condition\nof permanent preservation.\nIn the preparation of entire objects or struc-\ntures that are intact and covered by an integu-\nment not easily permeable by liquids, special\ncare must be taken to avoid swelling from en-\ndosmosis on the passage of the objects from\nany of the liquids employed to a liquid of less\ndensity, or shrinkage from exosmosis on the\npassage to a liquid of greater density. This ap-\nplies most specially to the passage from the\nlast alcohol into the clearing medium. A slit\nshould be made in the integument, if possible,\nso that the two fluids may mingle without\nhindrance. And in all cases the passage is\nmade gradual by placing the clearing medium\nunder the alcohol as above described. Fluids","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0345.jp2"},"342":{"fulltext":"Microscopy.\n330\nMicroscopy.\nof high diffusibility should be employed as far\nas possible in all the processes. Fixing agents of\ngreat penetrating power (such as picrosulphuric\nacid or alcoholic sublimate solution) should be\nemployed where the objects present not an\neasily permeable integument. Washing out is\ndone with successive alcohols, water being\nused only in the case of fixation by osmic acid,\nor the chromic mixtures or other fixing solu-\ntions that render washing by water impera-\ntive. Staining is done by preference with alco-\nholic staining media. The stains most used are\nGrenacher s borax carmine, Mayer s modifica-\ntion of Grenacher s alcoholic carmine, and\nKleinenberg s haematoxylin (for these see\nStaining Agents). Aniline stains are rarely ap-\nplicable to this class of preparations. Aqueous\nstains are more seldom used, though there are\nmany cases in which they are admissible, and\nsome in waich they are preferable.\nMinute dissections are best done, if neces-\nsary, in a drop of clearing agent. I recommend\ncedar wood oil for this purpose, as it gives to\nthe tissues a consistency very favorable for\ndissection, while its viscosity serves to lend\nsupport to delicate structures. Clove oil has a\ntendency to make tissues that have lain in it\nfor some time very brittle. This brittleness is\nalso sometimes very helpful in minute dissec-\ntions. Another property of clove oil is that it\ndoes not easily spread itself over the surface of\na slide, but has a tendency to form very con-\nvex drops. This property also makes it fre-\nquently a very convenient medium for making\nminute dissections in.\nFollowing Paul Mayer, I gave in the tirst edi-\ntion the following reasons for employing alco-\nholic rather than aqueous staining media.\nSince, in most cases, treatment with alcohol\nforms part of the fixing process, alcoholic solu-\ntions are logically indicated for staining. For\nby means of them it is possible to avoid the bad\neffects that follow on passing delicate tissues\nfrom alcohol into water, violent diffusive cur-\nrents being thereby set up which sometimes\ncarry away whole groups of cells swellings\nbeing caused in the elements of the tissues\nand, if the immersion in the aqueous medium\nbe prolonged, as is generally necessary in order\nto obtain a thorough stain, maceration of the\ntissues supervening. But alcoholic staining\nfluids have still other advantages; they are\nvastly more penetrating with them alone is it\npossible to stain through chitinous integu-\nments and if it be desired to stain slowly, tis-\nsues may be left in them for days without\nhurt.\nApplied to the case now under consideration\nthe preparation in toto of objects protected by\nnot easily permeable investments, this doctrine\nis evidently a wise one. For such objects must\nnecessarily be fixed by some highly penetrating\nbut not permanently hardening agent, such as\npicric acid, and must necessarily be washed out\nwith alcohol; and it is a good maxim for tissues\nso fixed that an object that has once b^en in\nalcohol should not be allowed to go back into\nwater, if that canpossibly be avoided.\nBut in the case of structures that have been\nwell fixed in a strongly and permanently coag-\nulating medium, such as chromic acid, this pre-\ncaution is much less necessary. Sections of\ntissues that have been fixed for twenty-four\nhours in Flemming s solution maybe passed with\nrelative impunity from absolute alcohol into\nan aqueous stain, and from that back again\ndirect into absolute alcohol. It is this property\nof tissues fixed in chromic solution that deter-\nmines me to recommend the practice of stain-\ning sections, instead of staining objects in toto.\nFor an excellent exposition of the principles\nunderlying the practice above recommended,\nthe reader may consult with advantage the\npaper of Paul Mayer in Mitth. Zool. Stat. Neapel,\nii (1881), et seq. See also the abstract in Journ.\nRoy. Mic. Soc. (N. S.),ii (1882), and thatin^mer.\nNatural, xvi (1882), in which two last some im-\nprovements are mentioned which have been\nworked out since the publication of Mayer s\npaper. Arthur Bolles Lee, in MicrotomisW Vade\nMecum.\nBleaching.— Marsh s Chlorine Method (Section\nCutting). Marsh generates chlorine in a small\nbottle by treating crystals of chlorate of\npotash with strong HO, and leads the gas\n(by means of a piece of glass tubing bent\ntwice at right angles) to the bottom of a bot-\ntle containing the sections in water. (See a fig-\nure of the apparatus in Journ. Boy. Mic. Soc, iii,\n1880, p. 854.)\nChlorine Solution (Sargent s Method).— Hy-\ndrochloric acid, 10 drops; chlorate of potash,\n1% drm. water, 1 oz. Soak for a day or two.\nWash well.\nThis method is intended for bleaching in-\nsects; it will be seen that it is only applicable to\nthe preparation of hard parts, as soft tissues\nwould be destroyed by the solution.\nCreosote (Pouchet s method, Journ.de VAnat.,\n1876.)— I gather from the paper here quoted\nthat most of the granular animal pigments\nare soluble in creosote. Other solvents are\nmentioned in this paper On the Change of\nColoration through Nervous Influence but\nthis appears to be the only one capable of gene-\nral histological application.\nNitric Acid.— Nitric acid has a similar action.\nOxygenated Water (Pouchet s method. M.\nDuval, Precis, etc.).— Macerate in glycerine to\nwhich has been added a little oxygenated water\n(5 to 6 drops to a watch glass of glycerine).\nAlso Labarraque s Solution and Javelle\nWater, which see in the general alphabet.\nCements, Microscopic. See also Cements—\nBelVs brown, Gram-Rutzons, gelati7ie, gutta per-\ncha, Kittons\\ LovetVs, Stieda s white zinc\ncement and zinc cements.\nGoadby s Marine Glue. Dissolve separately\nin coal naphtha equal parts of shellac and In-\ndia rubber. Mix thoroughly with heat.\nClearing Agents.— Clearing agents are liquids,\none of whose t unctions it is to make microscopic\npreparations transparent by penetrating\namong the highly refracting elements of\nwhich the tissues are composed, the clearing\nliquids themselves having an index of refrac-\ntion not greatly inferior to that of the tissues\nto be cleared. Hence all clearing agents are\nliquids of high index of refraction.\nClassification of Clearing Agents (Stieda).—\nStieda s experiments with essential oils led him\nto establish the following classification\na. The turpentine group, capable of clearing\nin a short time perfectly dehydrated sections,\nbut clearing watery sections only after many\nhours or not at all.\n01. Terebinthinae.\nOl. Balsam Copaivae.\n01. Cubebarum.\nOl. Fceniculi.\nOl. Sassafras.\nOl. Mentha? crispse.\nOl. Lavandulae.\nOl. Cajeputi.\nOl. Sabinae.\nOl. Absynthii.\nOl. Cortic Aurantior-\num.\nOl. Millef olii florum.\nOl. Juniperi.\nOh Origani vulgaris.\nOl. Cumini.\nOl. Cascarillse cortic.\nOi. Citri.\nThis, then, for Stieda, is the Index Expurga-\ntorius of clearing media.\no. The oil of cloves group, clearing very rap-\nidly sections that have been dehydrated, and\nclearing watery sections somewhat more\nslowly and with a certain amount of shrink-\nage.\nOl. Gaultheria?. Ol. Cassise.\nOl. Cinnamomi. Ol. Anisi stellati.\nOl. Bergamotti. Ol. Cardamomi.\nOl. Coriandri. Ol. Boris marini.\nOl. Carui.\nBut Stieda found creosote preferable to any\nof these.\nCorrosion.— Caustic Potash, Caustic Soda, Ni-\ntric Acid.— Boiling, or long soaking in a strong\nsolution of either of these, is an efficient means\nof removing soft parts from skeletal struct-","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0346.jp2"},"343":{"fulltext":"Microscopy.\n331\nMicroscopy.\nures (appendages of anthropods, spicula of\nsponges, etc.).\nAlso Javelle Water and Labarraque s Solu-\ntion—which see in general alphabet.\nDecalcification.— The most widely used agent\nfor decalcification is hydrochloric acid. Its\naction is rapid, even when very dilute, but it\nhas the disadvantage of causing serious swell-\ning of the tissues. To remedy this chromic acid\nmay be combined with it, or alcohol may be\nadded to it. Or a 3% solution of the acid may\nbe taken and have dissolved in it 10 to 15% of\ncommon salt. Or (Waldeyer) to a icW^ solu-\ntion of chloride of palladium may be added T V\nof its volume of HC1. Nitric acid also used.\nNitric Acid and Alcohol.— Three of nitric\nacid in 70$ alcohol. Soak specimens for several\ndays or weeks. I do not know who first rec-\nommended this admirable medium.\nChromic acid is employed in strengths of\nfrom 01$ to 1%, the maceration lasting two or\nthree weeks (in the case of bone). It is better\nto take the acid weak at first and increase the\nstrength gradually.\nChromic and Nitric Acid.— Dissolve 15 grn.\npure chromic acid in 7 oz. of distilled water, to\nwhich 30 minims of nitric acid are afterward\nadded. Macerate for three or four weeks,\nchanging the fluid frequently.— Marsh.\nFol takes 70 volumes of 1% chromic acid, 3 of\nnitcic acid and 200 of water.— ±,ehrb.\nExamination and Preserving Media.— Arti-\nficial Iodized Serum.— Frey, Le Microscope, p.\n131.\nDistilled water 135 grm.\nWhite of egg 15 grm.\nSodium chloride 0 20 grm.\nMix, filter and add—\nTincture of iodine 3 grm.\nThere is formed a precipitate Avhich is re-\nmoved by filtering through flannel, and a little\niodine is added to the filtrate.\nKronecker s Artificial Serum (from Vogt et\nYung, Traite cVAnat. comp. prat., p. 473. I have\nbeen unable to discover the original source).\nCommon salt 6 grm.\nCaustic soda 0*06 grm.\nDistilled water 1000 grm.\nCarbolized Sirup.— Carbolic acid may be em-\nployed instead of chloral; 1% is sufficient.\nEither of these sirups may be used as a mount-\ning medium, but they are not to be recom-\nmended for that purpose, as there is always\nrisk of the sugar crystallizing out.\nA good strength for sirup is equal parts of\nloaf sugar and water. Dissolve by boiling.\nPacini s Fluids. Pacini remarks that bi-\nchloride of mercury coagulates and precipitates\nthe albuminous matter that exists in the inter-\nstitial fluids of the tissues, and therefore in\norder to prevent this coagulation it is well to\nassociate with it salt for certain preparations,\nor acetic acid for others. On this principle are\nprepared the following classical fluids of Goad-\nby and Pacini.\nFluid No. 1.\nBichloride of mercury 1 part.\nCommon salt 2 parts.\nWater 200 parts.\nOf general employment, but especially useful\nfor blood corpuscles of cold blooded animals,\nas it has a less density than the following fluid.\nIt preserves spermatic fluid, epithelia, nerves\nand muscle fibers. It is also used for fixing in-\nfusoria, a small quantity being added to the\nwater containing them.\nFluid No. 2.\nBichionde of mercury 1 part.\nCommon salt 4 parts.\nWater 200 parts.\nFor blood corpuscles of warm blooded ani-\nmals.\nFluid No. 3.\nBichloride of mercury 1 part.\nAcetic acid 2 parts.\nWater 300 parts.\nServes best for the nuclei of animal tissues,\nbut it swells up the fibers and distorts the\nforms of the cells.\nFluid No. 4 (Frey, Le Microscope, 1867).— In the\nplace here quoted Frey speaks of the liquids of\nPacini as differing from those of Goadby\nthrough their containing glycerine in lieu of\nalum. He gives the following directions.\nTake\nSublimate 1 part.\nSodium chloride 2 parts.\nGlycerine (25° Baume) 13 parts.\nWater 113 parts.\nAllow the mixture to remain undisturbed for\nat least two months. At the end of that time\ntake for use 1 part, mix with 3 parts of water\nand filter. This mixture is said to be a good\npreservative of all delicate tissues.\nFluid No. 5— Ibid.\nSublimate 1 part.\nAcetic acid 2 parts.\nGlycerine (25° Baume) 43 parts.\nWater 115 parts.\nThis mixture is to be employed in the same\nway as the last. It is said to destroy red blood\ncorpuscles, but to preserve white blood cor-\npuscles.\nModifications of the Foregoing Sublimate So-\nlutions. The following formulae are quoted\nby Frey from Cornil as being in use at the\nPathological Institute of Berlin.\n6. Sublimate 1 part.\nSodium chloride parts.\nWater 100 parts.\nFor the more vascular tissues of warm blood-\ned animals.\n7. Sublimate 1 part.\nSodium chloride 2 parts.\nWater 200 parts.\nFor similar tissues of cold blooded animals.\n8. Sublimate 1 part.\nSodium chloride lpart.\nWater 300 parts.\nFor pus corpuscles and analogous elements.\n9. Sublimate 1 part.\nWater 300 parts.\nFor blood corpuscles.\n10. Sublimate lpart.\nAcetic acid 1 part.\nWater 300 parts.\nFor epithelia, connective tissue and pus cor-\npuscles, when it is desired to demonstrate the\nnuclei.\n11. Sublimate lpart.\nAcetic acid 3 parts.\nWater 300 parts.\nFor ligaments, muscles and nerves.\n12. Sublimate lpart.\nAcetic acid 5 parts.\nWater 300 parts.\nFor glandular tissues.\n13. Sublimate lpart.\nPhosphoric acid lpart.\nWater 30 parts (sic).\nFor cartilaginous tissues.\nOwen s Fluid (quoted from Vogt et Yung,\nTraite, d Anat. comp. pratique):\nCorrosive sublimate 0*014 grm.\nAlum 79 grm.\nSalt 137 grm.\nWater 1680 grm.\nSaid to be very useful for the preservation of\nsoft bodied animals.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0347.jp2"},"344":{"fulltext":"Microscopy.\n332\nMicroscopy.\nGilson s Fluid (Carnoy s Biologie Cellulaire)\nAlcohol of W% 60 c. c.\nWater 30 c. c.\nGlycerine 30 c. c.\nAcetic acid (15 parts of. the 9 _ _\nglacial to 85 of water) A c c\nBichloride 0 15 grm.\nA really excellent medium for the study of\nfine cellular detail with well fixed objects.\nGage s Albumen Fluid (Zeit. f. wiss. Mik.,\n1886)\nWhite of egg 15 c. c.\nWater 200 c. c.\nCorrosive sublimate 0*5 grm.\nSalt 4 grm.\nMix, agitate, filter and preserve in a cool place.\nRecommended for the study of red blood cor-\npuscles and ciliated cells.\nChloride and Acetate of Copper (Ripart et\nPetit s fluid, Brebissonia, 1880; Carnoy s Biol.\nCell.)\nCamphor water (not satur-\nated) 75 grm.\nDistilled water 75 grm.\nCrystallized acetic acid 1 grm.\nAcetate of copper 0*30 grm.\nChloride of copper 0 30 grm.\nThis is certainly a most valuable medium for\nwork with delicate fresh tissues. It may be\nused in combination with methyl green, which\nit does not precipitate.\nFabre Domergue s Glucose Medium (La Na-\nture, No. 823)\nGlucose sirup diluted to 25°\nof the areometer (sp. gr.\n1-1968) lOOOparts.\nMethyl alcohol 200 parts.\nGlycerine 100 parts.\nCamphor, to saturation.\nThe glucose is to be dissolved in warm water,\nand the other ingredients added. The mixture,\nwhich is always acid, must be neutralized by\nthe addition of a little potash or soda.\nThis medium is said to preserve without\nchange almost all animal pigments. If it really\nperforms this, its great value is evident.\nGlycerine and Alcohol Mixtures.— These most\nuseful fluids afford one of the best means of\nbringing delicate objects gradually from weak\ninto strong glycerine. The object is mounted\nin a drop of the liquid and left for a few hours\nor days, the mount not being closed. By the\nevaporation of the alcohol the liquid gradu-\nally increases in density, and after some time\nthe mount may be closed, or the object brought\ninto pure glycerine or glycerine jelly.\n1. Calberla s Liquid:\nGlycerine 1 part.\nAlcohol 1 part.\nWater 1 part.\nA most valuable examination fluid.\n2. Glycerine 1 part*\nAlcohol 1 part.\nWater 2 parts.\n3. Haentsch s Liquid\nGlycerine 1 part.\nAlcohol o 3 parts.\nWater 2 parts.\n4. Jager s Liquid (quoted from Vogt and\nYung s Traite dAnat. comp. prat.)\nGlycerine 1 part.\nAlcohol 1 part.\nSea water .10 parts.\nDeane s Glycerine Jelly (from Frey s Le Mi-\ncroscope).— One hundred and twenty grm. gly-\ncerine, 60 gram, water, 30 grm. gelatin. Dissolve\nthe gelatin in the water and add the glycerine.\nThis, and the following glycerine jellies, must\nof course be used warm.\nBeale s Glycerine Jelly (How to Work, etc.).—\nGelatin or isinglass, soaked, melted and clarified,\nif desired, as in the last formula. To the clear\nsolution add an equal bulk of strong glycerine.\nFol s Glycerine Jellies {Lehrb.).—1. Melt to-\ngether 1 volume of Beale s jelly, and to 1\nvolume of water and add 2 to 5% of salicylic\nacid solution or carbolic acid or camphor.\n2. Gelatin 30 parts.\nWater 70 parts.\nGlycerine 100 parts.\nAlcoholic solution of camphor 5 parts.\nPrepare as before, adding the camphor last.\n3. Gelatin 20 parts.\nWater 150 parts.\nGlycerine 100 parts.\nAlcoholic solution of camphor 15 parts.\nFixing Agents.— 1. Chromo aceto osmic acid\n(Flemming, first or weak formula, Zellsubstanz,\nKern und Zelltlieilung, 1882).\nChromic acid 0*25$ in water.\nOsmic acid Q 1% in water.\nGlacial acetic acid Q in water.\nThe best results as regards faithfulness of\nfixation are obtained with this mixture when\nit is allowed to act for only a short time, about\nhalf an hour.\n2. Bichromate and Cupric Sulphate Mixture\n(Kultschitzky, Zeit. f. wiss. Mik., iv, 3, 1887).— A\nsaturated solution of bichromate of potash and\nsulphate of copper in 50$ alcohol, to which is\nadded at the instant of using a little acetic acid,\nfive or six drops per 100 c. c.\nTo make the solution, add the finely pow-\ndered salts to the alcohol in excess, and leave\nthem together in total darkness for twenty-\nfour hours.\nFix for twelve to twenty-four hours in the\ndark otherwise the salts will be precipitated.\nThen treat with strong alcohol for twelve to\ntwenty-four hours, and make sections.\n3. Corrosive Sublimate (Lang s formula, Zool.\nAnzeiger, 1878), for Planaria.—\nDistilled water 100 parts by weight.\nChloride of sodium 6 to 10 parts.\nAcetic acid 6 to 8 parts.\nBichloride of mercury. 3 to 12 parts.\nAlum, in some cases y^. part.\n4. Platinum Chloride.— An extremely valua-\nble reagent for the study of karyokinesis. Kabl,\nto whom we owe the introduction of this agent,\nemploys an aqueous solution of 1 300. The ob-\njects remain in it for twenty-four hours, and\nare then washed with water, hardened in alco-\nhol and sectioned. Stain with Delafield s hse-\nmatoxylin, or with saf ranine.\n5. Palladium Chloride.— Palladium chloride\nhas been recommended by experienced workers.\nIt is used in solutions of P300, 1*600, or P800\nstrength, for from one to two minutes. Cat-\ntaneo recommends it as being the best of fixa-\ntives for Infusoria. Tissues are impregnated\nand colored brown by it. For small objects\none or two minutes will suffice for fixation.\nThis salt is found in commerce in the solid\nstate. To dissolve it, take 10 grm. of the salt,\n1 liter of water, and 4 to 6 drops of hydrochloric\nacid. Solution will be effected in twenty-four\nhours.\n6. Gold Chloride.— When used for fixing and\nnot for the object of staining by impregnation\ngold chloride is generally used in solution of\nstrength for a few minutes, 30 at most.\nWeaker solutions or stronger, 1 to 2% may\nalso be used. Wash out with water.\n7. Carnoy has given two formulas for this im-\nportant reagent. The first is:\nGlacial acetic acid 1 part.\nAbsolute alcohol 3 parts.\nThe second\nGlacial acetic acid 1 part.\nAbsolute alcohol 6 parts.\nChloroform 3 parts.\nThe addition of chloroform is said to render\nthe action of the mixture more rapid.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0348.jp2"},"345":{"fulltext":"Microscopy.\n333\nMicroscopy.\nV. Beneden and Neyt take equal volumes of\nglacial acid and absolute alcohol.\nZacharias takes-\nGlacial acetic acid 1 part.\nAbsolute alcohol 4 parts.\nOsmicacid A few drops.\nHardening Fluids.— 1. Miiller s Solution\nBichromate of potash 2-2]4 parts.\nSulphate of soda 1 part.\nWater 100 parts.\nThe duration of the reaction is about the\nsame as with the simple solution of chromic\nsalts.\n2. Erlicki s Solution (Warschauer Med. Zeit.,\nxxii., Nos. 15 and 18).\nBichromate of potash 2 5 parts.\nSulphate of copper 1*0 part.\nWater 100*0 parts.\n3. Sulphate of Copper.— This salt is seldom\nused alone, perhaps because it does not give a\nsufficiently tavorable consistency to the tissues\nhardened by it. I take from the Lehrbuch the\nfollowing formula, which was first published\nby Remak, then modified by Goette, and is said\nto be useful for hardening the ova of amphi-\nbia:\nTwo per cent, solution of sulphate\nof copper 50 c. c.\nAlcohol of 25^ 50 c. c.\nRectified wood vinegar 35 drops.\n4. Picric acid is a weak hardening agent,\nlittle used. It should be employed in saturated\nsolution.\n5. Chromic Acid.— Chromic acid is generally\nemployed in strengths of to }^,the immer-\nsion lasting a few days or a few weeks, accord-\ning to the size and nature of the object. Mucous\nmembrane, for instance, will harden satisfac-\ntorily in a tew days, brain will require some\nsix weeks.\nInjecting and Staining Fluids.— I. Prussian\nBlue Fluid.— Glycerine, 1 oz.; alcohol, 1 oz.;\nferrocyanide of potassium, 12 grn.; perchloride\nof iron, 1 drm.; water, 4 oz. Dissolve the po-\ntassium in 1 oz. of the water and glycerine and\nthe iron added to another ounce. Mix gra-\ndually, add the iron solution to the potassium\nsolution. Then add the alcohol and water.\n2. Turnbuirs Blue.— Ferridcyanide of potas-\nsium, 10 grn.; sulphate of iron, 5 grn.; water, 1\noz.; glycerine, 2 oz.; alcohol, 1 drm. Proceed as\nabove.\n3. Carmine.— Use carmine in ammonia.\n4. Carmine.— Carmine, 77 grn.; water, 70 grn.;\nammonia, 8 drops. Dissolve the carmine in the\nammonia and water. Expose to the air, then\nmix with gelatine drm. in drm. water.\nAdd a tew drops acetic acid, inject warm.\n5. Acid Carmine Fluid.— Carmine, 5 grn.: gly-\ncerine (with 8 drops acetic acid), }^oz.; glycer-\nine, 1 oz.; alcohol, 2 drm.; water,6drm.; ammo-\nnia, a few drops. Mix the carmine with a little\nwater, then add 5 drops of the ammonia. Then\nH oz. of glycerine, shake, and add the acid gly-\ncerine. Then add the alcohol and water. Shake\nwell.\n6. Dr. Carter s Carmine Fluid.— Carmine, 60\ngrn.; strong ammonia, 120 grn.; glacial acetic\nacid, 86 minims; solution gelatine (1 to 6) 2 oz.;\nwater, lV^oz. Dissolve the carmine in ammo-\nnia, then add 1^ oz. of the gelatine; to the re-\nmaining y 2 oz. gelatine add the acid drop into\nthe carmine solution.\n7. Yellow.— A. Bichromate of potash, 1 oz.;\nwater, 2 oz. B. Lead nitrate, same propor-\ntion; l part solution A is mixed with 4\nparts concentrated solution of gelatine 2\nparts solution B are placed in another vessel\nand mixed with 4 parts jelly (gelatine These\nare heated together at a temperature of 75° to\n90°, then heat in a water bath to 212° F. for y%\nhour. Filter through flannel.\nFerrocyanide of Copper Coloring Mass\nL. Ferrocyanide of potassium (con-\ncentrated solution) 20 c. c.\nGlycerine 50 c. c.\n2. Sulphate of copper (concentrated\nsolution) 35 c. c.\nGlycerine 50 c. c.\nMix 1 and 2 slowly, with agitation; at the mo-\nment of injecting combine with 3 volumes of\nvehicle.\nBlue Coloring Mass (Prussian Blue) {Robin s\nmodification of BeaWs formula)\n1. Sulphocyanide of potassium (sol.\nsat.) 90 c. c.\nGlycerine 50 c. c.\n2. Liquid perchloride of iron at 30°.. 3 c. c.\nGlycerine 50 c. c.\nMix slowly and combine the mixture with\n3 parts of vehicle. It is well to add a few drops\nof HC1.\nCadmium Coloring Mass\nSulphate of cadmium (sol. sat.). .40 c. c.\nGlycerine 50 c. c\nSulphide of sodium (sol. sat.) 30 c. c.\nGlycerine 50 c. c.\nMix with agitation and combine with 3 vol-\numes of vehicle.\nScheele s Green Coloring Mass:\nArseniate of potash (saturated so-\nlution) 80 c. c.\nGlycerine 50 c. c.\nSulphate of copper (saturated so-\nlution) 40 c. c.\nGlycerine 50 c. c.\nMix and combine with 3 volumes of vehicle.\nRobin s Carmine Glycerine Mass (Traite, p.\n33) consists of the following vehicle\nGlycerine.. 2 parts.\nAlcohol ....,1 part.\nWater 1 part.\nCombined with one-third or one-fourth its\nvolume of the carmine coloring mass.\nEmery s Aqueous Carmine.— To a 10% ammo-\nniacal solution of carmine is added acetic\nacid, with continual stirring, until the color\nof the solution changes to blood red through\nincipient precipitation of the carmine. The\nsupernatant clear solution is poured off, and\ninjected cold without further preparation.\nThe injected organs are thrown at once into\nstrong alcohol to fix the carmine. For injec-\ntion of fishes.\nLetellier s Vanadate of Ammonia and Tannin\n(Journ. Roy. Mic. Soc, 1889).— Vanadate of am-\nmonia is soluble in warm, and tannin in hot\nwater. The two solutions are kept apart until\nrequired for use, when they are mixed accord-\ning to the tint required. A black mass, very\nfine. The walls of vessels are stained black by\nit.\nTaguchi s Indian Ink (Arch. f. mik. Anat.,\n1888, Zeit. f. wiss. Mik., 1888).— Chinese or (better\nJapanese ink well rubbed up on a hone until\na fluid is obtained that does not run when\ndropped on thin blotting paper nor form a\ngray ring round the drop. Inject until the\npreparation appears quite black, and throw it\ninto some hardening liquid (not pure water).\nKilling Agents.— I. Chloroform may be em-\nployed either in the liquid state or in the state\nof vapor. Korotneff operates in the following\nmanner with Siphonophora The animals be-\ning extended, a watch glass containing chloro-\nform is floated on the surface of the water in\nwhich they are contained, and the whole is\ncovered with a bell glass. As soon as the ani-\nmals have become insensible, they are killed\nby means of hot sublimate or chromic acid so-\nlution plentifully poured on to them.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0349.jp2"},"346":{"fulltext":"Microscopy.\n334\nMicroscopy.\n2. Liquid chloroform is employed by squirt-\ning it in small quantities on to the surface of\nthe water containing- the animals. A syringe\nor pipette having a very small orifice, so as to\nthoroughly pulverize the chloroform, should\nbe employed. Small quantities only should be\nprojected at a time, and the dose should be re-\npeated every five minutes, until the animals\nare anaesthetized.\n3. Coca in (Richard Zool. Anz., 196, 1885) has\nbeen found to give good results. Richard puts\na colony of Bryozoa into a watch glass with 5\nc. c. of water, and adds gradually 1% solution of\nhydrochlorate of coca in in water. After five\nminutes, the animals are somewhat numbed,\nand half a cubic centimeter of the solution is\nadded, and the tentacles are caused to contract\nby irritating them with a needle. Ten minutes\nlater the animals should be found to be dead\nin a state of extension.\n4. Hydrate of Chloral, which was first recom-\nmended, I believe, by Foettinger (J.rc7i.dejBioL,\nvi, 1885, p. 115), gives very good results with\nsome subjects. Foettinger operates by drop-\nping crystals of chloral into the water contain-\ning the animals. For Alcyonella he takes 25 to\nSO centigrammes of chloral for each hundred\ngrammes of water. It takes about three quar-\nters of an hour to render a colony sufficiently\ninsensible to allow of fixing. Foettinger has\nobtained satisfactory results with marine and\nfresh water Bryozoa, with Annelida, Mollusca,\nNemertians, Actiniae, and with Asteracanthion.\nHe did not succeed with Hydroids.\nPreservative and Mounting Media.— The fol-\nlowing receipts have been in great part trans-\nlated and adapted from Dr. Behren s Tabellen\nzum gebrauch bei Mikroskopischen Arbeiten. 1\nA glance at the receipts will generally give all\nthe information necessary to any one fairly\nfamiliar with micro-manipulation.\n1. Alcohol-glycerine Glycerine, 1 part; alco-\nhol, 96%, 1 part; water, 1 part. Specially recom-\nmended for plants, entire or in parts.\n2. Canada balsam in alcohol, chloroform, ben-\nzol, turpentine, xylol The balsam is hardened\nby low heat until brittle when cold, broken up\nor pulverized, dissolved in the solvents, filtered\nthrough paper and evaporated until of the\nthickness of sirup.\n3. Boroglyceride Dissolve as much boracic\nacid in warm glycerine as possible. The solu-\ntion is thick when cold; used for mounting-\nanimal or plant preparations in the same way\nas balsam.\n4. Canada Balsam The thick balsam is heated\nand the mounting done on the warm table; the\nobject must first be soaked in absolute alcohol,\nthen in oil of cloves.\n5. Glycerine and carbolic acid Glycerine, 100\ngrm.; absolute alcohol, 50 grm.; water, 50 grm.;\ncarbolic acid, 3 grm. For plant sections, etc.\n6. Chloride of calcium Concentrated or 33$,\n25%, 12%. For vegetable preparations, etc.\n7. Dammar Dissolve gum dammar in equal\nparts of benzol and turpentine; the solution is\nfiltered and evaporated to sirupy thickness.\n8. Farrant s medium: Gum arabic, 1 oz.;\nglycerine, 1 oz.; water, 1 oz.; arsenious oxide,\nV/% grn. Dissolve the oxide in water, then the\ngum, without heat; when entirely dissolved,\nadd the glycerine; take care not to form bub-\nbles; can be filtered through fine flannel. Spe-\ncially recommended for delicate plant or ani-\nTY IO 1 f lOCliPC\n9. Glycerine: Concentrated or diluted with\nwater, to which may be added a few drops of\nacetic or carbolic acid. For vegetable or ani-\nmal preparations.\n10. Glycerine jelly: Glycerine, 120 grm.; water,\n60 grm.; gelatine, 30 grm, Dissolve the gelatine\nin warm water, add the glycerine, filter, if ne-\ncessary, through flannel. All forms of glycer-\nine jelly must be used warm. For vegetable\nand animal tissues.\n11. Deane s medium: Similar to glycerine\njelly, but with the addition of honey and a\nsmall quantity of alcohol. Used in place of\nglycerine jelly.\n12. Glycerine salicylic vinegar Glycerine, 1\nvol.; water, 4 vol.; salicylic vinegar, 0 1 vol.\nFor infusoria.\n13. Glycerine salicylic vinegar for larvae, hy-\ndra, nematodes, etc.: Glycerine, 1 vol.; water,\n2 vol.; salicylic vinegar, 0 1 vol. Salicylic vin-\negar is made by dissolving 1 part salicylic acid\nin 100 parts pyroligneous acid, sp. gr. 1*04.\n14. Goadby s medium: Corrosive sublimate.\n0 25 grm.; alum, 60 grm.; boiling water, 2,300\ngrm.\n15. Gum with chloral hydrate: Gum arabic,\nchloral hydrate, water. A cylinder 60 c. c. con-\ntents is filled with gum arabic in pieces; to\nthis is added a solution of chloral hydrate (sev\neral containing 5—10% of glycerine; shake\noften; in a few days the gum will dissolve; the\nsirupy liquid is filtered. Carmine and haema-\ntoxylin stained objects can be mounted in this\nmedium.\n16. Gum and acetate of potash or of ammonia:\nGum arabic, acetate of potash or of ammonia,\nglycerine, water. Made as the preceding me-\ndium, only a solution of potassic or ammonic\nacetate is used instead of a solution of chloral.\nAniline stained objects can be mounted in\nthis.\n17. Iodized serum, artificial (Ranvier): 1.\ndistilled water, 135 grm.; 2. egg albumen, 15\ngrm.; 3. common salt, 0 2 grm.; 4. tincture of\niodine, 3 grm. Mix, 1, 2, 3 and filter; add 4 and\nfilter again. Used for examinations, not for-\nmounting.\n18. Potassio-mercuric iodide (Stephenson):Bin-\niodide of mercury, iodide of potassium water.\nTo the water add an excess of each salt and\nfilter. This gives a v^rydense liquid of high re-\nfractive index (3*02). For diatoms, etc., may be\nused diluted.\n19. Monobromide of naphthalin. High refrac-\ntive index; for diatoms, etc.\n20. Monobromide balsam: Solution of hardened\nCanada balsam in monobromide of naphthalin.\nRefractive index high, 1*6; shows finer struct-\nure of diatoms, etc.\n21. Monobromide tolu: Weir s medium; solu-\ntion of balsam tolu in monobromide of naphtha-\nlin. Refractive index 1*73; may prove very valu-\nable as a medium for diatoms. Preparation, dis-\nsolve 3 oz. of balsam tolu in 4 fluid drm. of\nbenzol, add 4 fluid oz. carbon disulphide; shake\nwell; let separate into layers; pour off carbon\ndisulphide; renew this treatment with more\ncarbon disulphide; pour it off again; evaporate\nthe benzol from the balsam tolu. The tolu will\nnow be free from cinnamic acid; put 1 fl. drm.\nof monobromide of naphthalin in }a oz. vial,\nadd enough of the purified tolu to make a stiff\nmixture or solution when cold. Heat to 104° or\n122° F. when using.\n22. Pacini s solution: Sodium chloride, 1 part;\ncorrosive sublimate, 2 parts; water, 113 parts;\nglycerine, 13 parts. Let it stand three months,\nthen use 1 part with 3 of water; filter before\nusing. Recommended as a preservative of\ndelicate tissues.\n23. Phosphorus (Stephenson): Concentrated\nsolution in carbon disulphide. High refrac-\ntive index; difficult and dangerous to use; takes\nfire spontaneously in the air.\n24. Ri part s solution Camphor water, 75\nparts; distilled water, 75 parts; glacial acetic\nacid, 1 part copper acetate, 0*3 part copper\nchloride, 0 3 part. Useful for delicate vege-\ntable tissues, desmids, confervas, etc.\n25. Sty rax: Chloroform solution. For dia-\ntoms; high refractive index.\n26. American styrax: Chloroform solution\nfiltered and hardened. Color as light as that\nof good balsam; high refractive index; for\ndiatoms and fine tissues.\n27. Harting s corrosive sublimate solution:\nCorrosive sublimate, 1 part; water, 200 to 500\nparts. For blood corpuscles, etc.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0350.jp2"},"347":{"fulltext":"Microscopy.\n335\nMicroscopy.\n28. William s solution: Saltpeter, 2 oz.; sal\nammoniac, 2 drm.; corrosive sublimate, 1 dr.;\nglycerine, 2 oz.; alcohol, 1 pt.; water 2 qt. Let\nstand for several days; filter. More properly a\npreservative for large anatomical and other\nspecimens.\n29. Wickersheim s solution Alum, 100 grm.,\nsaltpeter, 12 grin.; potash, 60 grin.; arsenious\noxide, 20 grm.; boiled water, 3,000 grm. A\npreservative of large anatomical and other\nspecimens.\n30. Virodtzeff s solution: Glycerine, 2,160 parts;\nwater, 1,080 parts; alcohol, 45 parts; thymol, 5\nparts. A preservative of large anatomical and\nother specimens.— The Microscope.\nMiscellaneous Formulas. Gum and Sirup Con-\ngelation Mass for Imbedding (Cole, Methods of\nMicroscopical Research, 1884; Journ. Roy. Mic.\nSoc, 1884).— Gum mucilage (B. P.), 5 parts; sirup,\n3 parts. (For brain, retinae, and all tissues liable\nto come in pieces, put 4 parts sirup to 5 parts\ngum.) Add 5 grn. pure carbolic acid to each oz.\nof the medium.\nGum mucilage (B. P.) is made by dissolving 4\noz. picked gum acacia in 6 oz. water.\nThe sirup is made by dissolving 1 lb. loaf\nsugar in 1 pt. water and boiling.\nThis medium is employed for soaking tissues\nprevious to freezing. They may remain in it for\nany length of time; all the year round if desired.\nThe freezing is conducted as follows The gum\nand sirup are removed from the outside of the\nobject by means of a cloth; the spray is set\ngoing and a little gum mucilage painted on the\nfreezing plate; the object is placed on this and\nsurrounded with gum mucilage; it is thus satu-\nrated with gum and sirup, but surrounded\nWhen being frozen with mucilage only. This\ncombination prevents the sections from curl-\ning up on the one hand or splintering from\nbeing too hard frozen on the other. The mass\nought to cut like cheese. Should freezing have\nbeen carried too far, wait for a few seconds.\nFol s Gelatin (Fol Lehrb., p. 132).— Four grm.\ngelatin are dissolved in 20 c. c. glacial acetic\nacid by heating on a water bath and agitation.\nTo 5 c. c. of the solution add 70 c. c. of 70$ alco-\nhol, and lto 2 c.c. 5% aqueous solution of chrome\nalum. Pour the mixture on the slide and allow\nit to dry. In a few hours the gelatin passes\ninto the insoluble state. It retains, however,\nthe property of swelling and becoming some-\nwhat sticky in presence of water. The slide\nmay then be immersed in water containing the\nsections. These can be slid into their places, and\nthe whole lifted out; the sections will be found\nto be fixed in their places.\nThis method is especially useful for sections\nmade under water, large celloidin sections\namong others.\n1. Thwaites Fluid.— Water, 16 oz.; alcohol, 1\noz.; creosote, sufficient to saturate alcohol;\nchalk, q. s. Mix the creosote and alcohol, stir\nin i he chalk, and add the water. Next add an\nequal proportion of water saturated with cam-\nphor.\n2. Naphtha and Creosote.— Creosote, 3 drm.;\nwood naphtha, 6 oz.; distilled water, 64 oz.; chalk,\nq. s. Mix the naphtha and creosote, then\nenough chalk to form a smooth paste; then add\nsmall quantity of water, and 2 or 3 lumps of\ncamphor. Keep in covered vessel for two or\nthree weeks; filter.\n3. Solution of (C. P.) carbolic acid in water.\n4. Solution of chromic acid.\n5. Gelatine, 1 oz.; honey, 4 oz.; alcohol, oz.;\ncreosote, 6 drops. Soak the gelatine; then add\nthe honey, which is heated to boiling; when al-\nmost cold add the creosote dissolved in alcohol;\nfilter.\n6. Burnet s solution is made of chloride of\nzinc; and is not recommended.\n7. Calcium Chloride.— Saturated aqueous so-\nlution of calcium chloride (C. P.); recommended\nlor hard structures.\n8. Alum, also common salt.\n9. Arsenious acid.\n10. Spicer s Fluid.— Alcohol, 3 oz.; distilled\nwater, 2 oz.; glycerine, 1 oz.\n11. Camphor Water.— Distilled water, 1 qt.;\ntincture of camphor, 1 drm. Use only the clear\nfluid.\n12. Rolf s Liquid.— Bay salt, 1 grn.; alum, 1\ngrn.; distilled water, 1 oz.\nPassini s Solution. For blood globules,\nnerves, and white tissues generally. Perchlo-\nride of mercury, 1 part; sodium chloride, 2 parts;\nglycerine, 13 parts; distilled water, 113 parts.\nBrunswick Black.— Solution of asphalt in tur-\npentine. Great diversity of proportion of the\ningredients; the following is the best: J4 lb-\nbest asphaltum; 4J4 oz. linseed oil, which has\nbeen previously boiled, with oz.; add litharge\nuntil it becomes stringy; then mix with y% pt.\noil of turpentine.\nCleaning Slides.— If spoiled in mounting, use\na saturated solution of borax in water, in\nwhich soak the slides for a few days, then rinse\nin clean water. Borax is a solvent for balsam,\nshellac and other cements used in mounting,\nand does not act on the glass like soda, which is\noften recommended for this purpose.\nTo Rectify Turpentine for Microscopical\nUse.— In a quart bottle agitate 1 pt. of common\nturpentine with 4fl. oz. of 98 alcohol. Decant\nthe turpentine, which will form the lower layer,\nafter standing for two hours, and mix it with\n1 pt. of clear water. Agitate and let stand un-\ntil the two fluids separate. Decant the turpen-\ntine, which this time will form the upper layer,\nand finally, mix it with an oz. of powdered\nstarch, and filter through paper. A pure, lim-\npid turpentine is the result.\nStaining Fluids.— 1. Beale s Carmine. Car-\nmine,10grm.; ammonia, strong, y 2 drm.; glycer-\nine, 2 oz.; distilled water, 2 oz.; alcohol, oz.\nDissolve carmine in ammonia; boil for a few sec-\nonds in test tube; cool, then add the glycerine\nwater, etc. Filter.\n2. Thiersch s Carmine Fluid. A. Carmine, 1\npart; caustic ammonia, 1 part; distilled water, 3\nparts. Filter. B. Oxalic acid, 1 part; water,\n22 parts. (One part A is mixed with 8 parts B\nand 12 parts absolute alcohol are added.)\n3. Thiersch s Lilac Fluid. Borax, 4 parts;\nwater, 56 parts; dissolve and add 1 part car-\nmine. Mix with twice its volume of absolute\nalcohol; filter. The precipitate of carmine and\nborax is redissolved in water.\nThe Methods of Staining.— Coloring matters\npossessing so great an affinity for certain ele-\nments of tissues that they may be left to pro-\nduce the desired electi vity of stain without any\nspecial manipulation on the part of the opera-\ntor, are unfortunately rare. In practice select-\nive staining is arrived at in two ways. Tn the\none, which may be called the direct method,\nyou make use of a coloring reagent that stains\nthe element desired to be selected more quickly\nthan the elements you wish to have unstained,\nand you stop the process and fix the color at\nthe moment when the former are just suf-\nficiently stained and the latter not affected to\nan injurious extent, or not affected at all, by\nthe color. This is what happens— for instance,\nwhen you stain the nuclei of a preparation by\ntreatment vith very dilute hasmatoxylin, you\nget, at a certain moment, a fairly pure nuclear\nstain but if you prolonged the treatment, the\nextra-nuclear elements would take up the\ncolor, and the selectivity of the stain would be\nlost. It may be noted of this method that it is\nin general the method of fast stains, echtc Far-\nbung, and that it renders great services in the\ncoloring of specimens in toto— a procedure\nwhich is not possible with the chief stains- of the\nother class (the anilins). It is the old method of\ncarmine and haematoxylin staining.\nThe second, or indirect, method is the\nmethod of overstaining followed by partial de-\ncoloration. You begin by staining all the ele-\nments of your preparation indiscriminately,\nand you then wash out the color from all\nthe elements, except those which you desire to","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0351.jp2"},"348":{"fulltext":"Microscopy.\n336\nMicroscopy.\nhave stained, these retaining the color more\nobstinately than the others in virtue of\na certain not yet satisfactorily explained\naffinity. This is what happens— for in-\nstance, when you stain a section of one\ndeep red in all its elements with safranin,\nand then treating it for a few seconds with\nalcohol, extract the color from all but the\nchromatin and nucleoli of the nuclei. It is in\nthis method that the coal tar colors find their\nchief employment. It is in general applicable\nonly to sections, and not to staining objects in\ntoto (the case of borax carmine is probably\nonly a seeming exception to this statement). It\nis a method, however, of very wide applicabil-\nity, and gives the most brilliant results that\nhave hitherto been attained.\nAnilin* Colors Giving Indirect Nuclear Stains\n—Flemming s Method.— Very few anilinsgive a\nprecise nuclear stain by the direct method.\nTwo of them— methyl green and Bismarck\nbrown— are pre-eminently nuclear stains.\nMany of the others— for instance, safranin,\ngentian, and especially dahlia, may be made to\ngive a nuclear stain with fresh tissues by com-\nbining them with acetic acid; but in ninety-\nnine cases out of a hundred are not so suitable\nfor this kind of work as the two colors first\nnamed, which practically form a class apart.\nAgain, very few anilins give a pure plasmatic\nstain (one leaving nuclei unaffected). The ma-\njority give a diffuse stain, which in some few\ncases becomes by the application of the decol-\noration or indirect method the most precise\nand splendid stain as yet obtainable by any\nmeans.\nThe indirect staining method, or Flemming s\nmethod, will form the subject of the present\nchapter, and the remaining anilins will be\ntreated of in the next chapter.\nThe following list shows the colors treated of\nin this section\nColors Giving Indirect Nuclear Stains— Flem-\nming s Method.\nBed.— Safranin, Magdala red (Naphthalin\nred), Fuchsin (Rose in, Rubin, Magenta, Solf eri-\nno, Corallin), Rocellin (Echtroth, Orseillin,\nRubidin), Mauvein, Rogue fluorescent.\nBrown and Yellow.— Bismarck brown, Orange,\nTropaeolin (Chrysaurein).\nGreen.— Anilin green, Solid green.\nBlue.— Victoria.\nViolet.— Gentian, Dahlia, Methyl violet.\na. Direct Nuclear Stains. Methyl green,\nBismarck brown (Vesuvin), Methyl violet.\no. Plasmatic Stains, Stains not Affecting Nu-\nclei.— Bleu lumiere, Bleu de Lyon, Indulin\n(Nigrosin), Quinoleiin (Cyanin).\nc. Other Colors (Ground Stains and Specific\nStains)\nBed.— Saiirefuchsin (Acid fuchsin), Congo,\nBenzo-purpurin, Delta purpurin, Biebricher\nScharlach, Eosin, Bengal rose.\nOrange and Yellow.— Picric acid, Metanil yel-\nlow, Saiiregelb, Echtgelb, Tropaeolin O, Crpcein,\nGold orange.\nGreen.— Iodine green, Thiophen green, Anilin\ngreen, Picro-anilin green.\nBlue.— Anilin blue, Parma blue, Methylen\nblue.\nViolet.— Violet B.\nBlack.— Anilin black (Nigranilin, Blue black,\nNoir Colin).\nVictoria Blue (Victoriablau). (Lustgarten,\nMed. Jahrb. k. Ges. d. Aerzte zu Wien, 1886.)—\nStain (specimens strongly fixed in Flem-\nming some hours, lightly fixed specimens a\nfew minutes) in saturated aqueous solution.\nWash out in pure alcohol (about one minute,\nmore or less). You may clear with clove oil,\nbut you had perhaps better take cedar or ber-\ngamot oil, as clove oil washes out the color very\nfreely.\nThe word anilin ia here used in the popular sense, to in-\nclude all coal tar colors.\nGentian Violet.— One of the most important,\nof these stains. It may be used in aqueous so-\nlution or in alcoholic solution diluted with\nabout one half of water (Flemming, Zells.\nKern. u. Zellth., 1882, p. 384), and the stain may\nbe washed out with pure alcohol or (Flemming,.\nZeit. f. wiss. Mik., 1, 1884, p. 350) with acidulated\nalcohol, as directed below for safranin.\nAnilin Green.— Use precisely as directed for\nVictoria blue, supra. An extremely delicate\nand absolutely precise nuclear stain, nucleoli\nbeing peculiarly brilliantly stained by it.\nDahlia.— (Flemming, Arch. f. mik. Anat., xix,\n1881.) Stain in an aqueous solution, either neu-\ntral or acidified with acetic acid, and wash out\nwith pure alcohol. The stain is paler in the nuclei\nthan with gentian or safranin. The cytoplasmic\ngranulations of certain cells are sharply\nstained.\nSafranin.— One of the most important of\nthese stains, on account of its great power, bril-\nliancy, and superior permanence in balsam,\nand also on account of the divers degrees of\nelectivity that it displays for the nuclei and\nother constituent elements of different tis-\nsues.\nThe great secret of staining with safranin is\nto get a good safranin.\nOther Nuclear Stains by the Indirect Method.\nThe f oregiong paragraphs nearly exhaust the\nlist of colors giving good nuclear stains by the\nindirect process. Flemming (Arch. f. mik.\nAnat., xix, 1881), mentions the following\nMagdala Red (Naphthalin Red, Rose de\nNaphthaline.)— Nearly if not quite as good a\nstain as any of the foregoing, and superior to\nall except safranin in respect of permanency.\nThis and the following should, as far as is yet\nmade out, be used in alcoholic solution diluted\nwith about one half of water, and be washed\nout with pure alcohol, followed by clove oil.\nMauvein and Rouge Fluorescent are good\nstains, but color some nuclei more deeply than\nothers in the same preparation.\nSolid Green (perhaps the same as the ana-\nlin green discussed above) is very elective for\nnucleoli.\nFuchsin (meaning the basic f uchsins, a series\nof rosanilin salts having very similar reac-\ntions and found in commerce under the names\nof fuchsin, anilin red, rubin, rosein, magen-\nta, solferino, corallin).— A good but somewhat\nweak stain, by the alcohol method. Good re-\nsults are obtained by substitution in the fol-\nlowing manner (Graser, Deutsche Zeit. f. Chir-\nurgie, xxvii, 1888, Zeit.f. wiss. Mik. v, 3, 1888):\nYou either employ the color as directed for\nmethyl violet, or you stain for twelve to twen-\nty-four hours in a dilute aqueous solution,\nwash out for a short time in alcohol, stain for\na few minutes in aqueous solution of methylen\nblue, and dehydrate with alcohol. A double\nstain. Chromatin and nucleoli red; all the rest\nblue.\nOrange, precise but weak.\nBismarck brown is not very satisfactory with\nchromic objects. With alcohol objects it gives\na good chromatin stain, but cannot be thor-\noughly removed from cytoplasm by any means\nyet discovered.\nTo these may be added—\nMethyl violet, perhaps best used according\nto the method of Resegotti given in the last\nsection; and (according to Griesbach, Arch.f.\nmik. Anat., xxii, p. 132).\nTropaeolin OOO, No. 2 (orange ii; chrysau-\nrein, B naphtholorange), a fine dark orange\nstain, and—\nRocellin (echtroth, orseillin No. 3, rubidin,\nla Rauvarienne), a cherry red stain.\nBenzoazurin has been lately recommended by\nMartin (see Zeit. f. wiss. Mik., vi, 2, 1889). Stain\nfor an hour or so in dilute aqueous solution\nand wash out with HC1 alcohol.\nDirect Nuclear Stains.— Methyl Green.— This\nis the most common, in commerce, of the anilin\ngreens. It appears to go by the synonyms of","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0352.jp2"},"349":{"fulltext":"Microscopy.\n337\nMicroscopy.\nMethylanilin green, Vert Lumiere, Lichtariin,\nGrunpulver. When first studied by Calberla,\nin 1874 (Morphol. Jahrb., iii, 1887, p. 625), it went\nby the name of Vert en cristaux. It is common-\nly met with in commerce under the name of\nmore costly greens, especially under that of\niodine green. It is important not to confuse it\nwith the latter, nor with aldehyde green (Vert\nd Eusebe), nor with the phenylated rosanilins,\nParis green, and Vert d alcali or Ve ridine.\nThe chief use of methyl green is as a nuclear\nstain for fresh or recently fixed tissues. For\nthis purpose it should be used in the form of a\nstrong aqueous solution containing a little\nacetic acid (about 1% in general). The solutions\nmust always be acid. You may wash out with\nwater (best acidulated) and mount in some acid\naqueous medium containing a little of the\nmethyl green in solution.\nBismarck Brown (Manchester Brown, Phe-\nnylen Brown, Vesuvin, La Phenicienne). A\nfairly pure nuclear stain that will work either\nwith fresh tissues or with such as have been\nhardened in chromic acid.\nThe color is not very easily soluble in water.\nYou may boil it in water, and filter after a day\nor two (Weigert, in Arch. f. mik. Anat., xv,\n1878, p. 258). You may add a little acetic or\nosmic acid to the solution. Maysel dissolves\nthe color in acetic acid (this solution does not\ngive a permanent stain). Alcoholic solutions\nmay also be used. Paul Mayer recommends a\nsaturated solution in 70$ alcohol; or Calberla s\nmixture, or dilute glycerine (say of H)% to 50$)\nmay very advantageously be employed.\nMethyl Violet (Methylanilin=anilin-violet=\nParis vioiet inchiostro di Leonardi).— The\n-following process has been recommended by\nOrth (Amer. Mon. Micr. Journ., i, 1880, p. 143;\nJourn. Roy. Mic. Soc, N.S., i, 1881, p. 137). Sec-\ntions are to be soaked in water, and then\nbrought into the following solution\nAnilin violet 1 part.\nAcetic acid 300 parts.\nMount, without washing out, but simply\ndraining, in acetate of potash (acetate, 2 parts;\nwater, 1 part).\nThe stain will probably fade within a year or\ntwo.\nBleu lumiere is stated to be a plasma stain\nnot affecting nuclei. I have not been able to\nmake out whether it is identical with Parma\nblue, which is one of the numerous toluidin\nblaes. If it is, Frey recommends a solution in\nwater of 1 1000, in whicb tissues stain in a few\nmiuutes, and may be mounted either in glycer-\nine or balsam. Lichtblau is possibly a syno-\nnym of this color. The principal use of such\na color is for making double stains.\nIodine Green (Hofmann s Griln) (Griesbach,\nZool. Anz., No. 117, vol. v, 1882J— Griesbach\nemploys the following solution\nCrystallized iodine green 0 lgr.\nDistilled water 35*0 gr.\nThese proportions may be varied according\nto the desire of the operator, within limits\nindicated only by the observation that good\nresults can only be obtained from deep hued\nsolutions.\nThe objects are to be put into water for a few\nseconds before staining. They stain instanta-\nneously in general. They are to be washed out\nin water, and brought into glycerine, or de-\nhydrated in absolute alcohol and passed\nthrough oil of cloves or anise seed into bal-\nsam or dammar. The stain is not destroyed\nby immersion in alcohol for days. The pre-\nparations are apparently permanent in bal-\nsam.\nViolet B (S. Mayer, Sitzb. d. k. Akacl. d. Wiss.\nWien, iii, Abth.).— Used in solutions of 1 grm. of\nthe color to 300 grm. of 0 5$ salt solution,\nand with fresh tissues that have not been\ntreated with any reagent whatever this color\ngives a stain so selective of the elements of the\nvascular system that favorable objects, such as\nserous membranes, appear as if injected. The\npreparations do not keep well; acetate of pot-\nash is the least unsatisfactory medium for\nmounting them in.\nA. Aqueous Carmine Stains.— Ammonia Car-\nmine (Beale, Hoiv to Work, etc.).—\nCarmine 10 grn.\nLiquor ammonise (f ortissimus,\nB. P.) ^drm.\nPrice s glycerine 2 oz.\nDistilled water 2 oz.\nAlcohol )4 oz.\nThe carmine, in small fragments, is to be dis-\nsolved in the ammonia with the aid of heat,\nBoil for a few seconds and let cool. Leave un-\ncorked for at least an hour, or until the excess\nof ammonia has evaporated as tested by the\nsmell. Then add the glycerine, water and al-\ncohol, and filter, or allow to settle and decant.\nIf after keeping for some months the carmine\nbegins to percipitate, owing to the escape of\nammonia, add one or two drops of liquor am-\nmonige.\nHoyer s Neutral Carmine (Biol. Centralb., ii,\n1882) If the solution made by the process given\nsupra be mixed with 4 to 6 times its volume of\nstrong alcohol a scarlet red precipitate is form-\ned. This is separated by filtration, washed\nand dried or made into a paste with alcohol in\nwhich some glycerine and chloral is dissolved.\nBoth the powder and the paste can be kept seve-\nral months unchanged; they dissolve easily in\nwater, particularly the paste. The solution\npasses readily through the filter, while the\nordinary carmine solution can only be filtered\nwith difficulty; it also keeps a long time un-\nchanged, especially with the addition of 1 to 2%\nof chloral, and it has a much more intense color-\ning power.\nRanvier s Picro Carmine or Picro Carminate\nof Ammonia.— The method of preparation em-\nployed in the Laboratory of Histology of the\nCollege de France, kindly communicated to\nmyself and Henneguy for our Traite des Meth.\nTechn. by M. Vignal, one of the assistants there,\nis as follows\nTake\nWater 1,000 narts.\nPicric acid 20 parts.\nCarmine 10 parts.\nAmmonia 50 parts.\nPut them into a stoppered bottle and leave\nthem for two or three months in a warm place.\nThen put them into a large crystallizing dish\nand let them putrefy. When the liquid has be-\ncome reduced by evaporation to four-fifths of\nits original volume, remove the crystals that\nhave formed at the bottom, dry them and dis-\nsolve them in a little warm water. Filter the\nsolution and examine it with the microscope to\nsee whether the carmine is really dissolved. If\nnot, add water and ammonia, and let the solu-\ntion putrefy again; evaporate and examine as\nbefore. When you have got your carmine\ncombined evaporate the solution to dryness in\na stove and reduce the picro carminate to pow-\nder.\nFor staining, dissolve 1 grm. of the powder\nin 100 grm. of water and add a crystal of thymol\nto prevent the development of mould.\nAlum Carmine (Grenacher s formula, Arch.\nmik. Anat., xvi, 1879).— An aqueous solution (of\n1% to 5% strength, or any other strength that\nmay be preferred) of common or ammonia\nalum, is boiled for ten or twenty minutes with\nYo% to 1% of powdered carmine. It is perhaps the\nsafer plan to take the alum solution highly\nconcentrated in the first instance, and after\nboiling the carmine in it, dilute to the desired\nstrength. When cool filter.\nThis stain must be avoided in the case of cal-\ncareous structures that it is wished to preserve.\nAlum Carmine with Osmic Acid (Zoltan von\nRoboz, in litt.)— To 50 or 60 grm. of water is\nadded alum carmine until the mixture is of an","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0353.jp2"},"350":{"fulltext":"Microscopy.\n338\nMicroscopy.\nalmost red rose color; about 10 drops of a xoue\nsolution of osmic acid are added. (The mixture\nshould have an appreciable smell of osmic acid.)\nThe objects to be stained remain in the mix-\nture for about thirty-six hours in the dark. It\nis hardly necessary to wash them, as the stain\nis perfectly precise without that. It is im-\nportant to perform the staining in a well-\nclosed vessel, in order to prevent the evapora-\ntion of the osmium.\nDelage s Osmium Carmine (Arch, de Zool.\nExp. et Gen., iv, ser. 2, 1886; Zeit. f. wiss. Mik.,\niii, 2, 1886).— Ammonia carmine neutralized by\nevaporation over a water bath and combined\nwith an equal volume of 1% osmic acid solu-\ntion, then filtered under a bell glass. Stains\nand fixes at the same time. (The mixture, how-\never, will not preserve its fixative properties\nfor more tnan a few days.)\nHamann s Acid Carmine (Intern. Mon. f.\nAnat. u. Hist., i, 5, 1884; Zeit. f. wiss. Mik., ii,\n1885).— Thirty gr. of carmine, 200 c. c. of\nstrong ammonia and acetic acid to neutraliza-\ntion or slightly acid reaction. This may be\nused for staining, but it is far better to redis-\nsolve in a mixture of ammonia and acetic acid\nin the same proportions the precipitate that\nforms when the solution is allowed to stand for\nfrom two to four weeks. Treatment with HC1\nis not necessary.\nNeutral Borax Carmine (Nikiforow, Zeit.f.\nwiss. Mik., v, 3).— Boil together 3 parts of car-\nmine, 5 parts of borax and 100 parts of water,\nadding enough ammonia to get the carmine to\ndissolve. Evaporate to less than half the orig-\ninal volume. Add dilute acetic acid until the\ncherry red color changes (if you should add too\nmuch acetic acid you must reneutralize with\nammonia). Add a little carbolic acid to pre-\nserve the solution.\nA direct nuclear stain, like that of alum car-\nmine, but more powerful. Osmic and chromic\nobjects take the stain well. Overstaining does\nnot occur, so that objects may remain for\ndays in the stain. Wash out with water.\nThe Use of Cochineal. What is the use of\ncochineal In the first place, it gives us the\nmeans of getting a direct nuclear stain by\nmeans of an alcoholic solution. For some pur-\nposes this stain is unrivaled. In the second\nplace it gives us an aqueous stain that takes\nthe place of alum carmine, with perhaps a\ngreater richness of differentiation.\nAlum Cochineal (Partsch, Arch. f. mik. Anat.,\nxiv, 1877). Powdered cochineal is boiled for\nsome time in a h% solution of alum, the decoc-\ntion filtered and a little salicylic acid added to\npreserve it from mould.\nAlum Cochineal (Czokor. Arch. f. mik. Anat.,\nxviii, 1880).— Seven gr. cochineal and 7 gr. cal-\ncined alum are rubbed up together into pow-\nder in a mortar; add 700 gr. distilled water and\nboil down to 400 gr. When cool add sufficient\ncarbolic acid to be perceptible by the smell and\nfilter several times. The violet solution is\nready for use and will keep for six months,\nafter which time it must be filtered again and\na fresh trace of carbolic acid added.\nDelafeld s Hematoxylin— To 400 c. c. of sat-\nurated solution of ammonia alum add 4 gr. of\nhaematox. crist. dissolved in 25 c. c. of strong\nalcohol. Leave it exposed to the light and air\nin an unstoppered bottle for three or four\ndays. Filter and add 100 c. c. of glycerin and\n100 c. c. of methylic alcohol (CH 4 0). Allow the\nsolution to stand until the color is sufficiently\ndark, then filter and keep in a tightly stop-\npered bottle.\nGlvcerine Solutions.— Ehrlich s Acid Hema-\ntoxylin (Zeit. f. wiss. Mik., 1886). -The ordinary\n(alum) hematoxylin staining solutions easily\ndecompose, giving rise to a blue precipitate\nwhich is formed by the splitting up ot the alum\ninto free sulphuric acid and a basic lake form-\ning compound of alumina. By adding to a so-\nlution an appropriate acid this decomposition\nmay be prevented. The end may be attained\nby acetic acid. Take-\nWater 100 c. c.\nAbsolute alcohol 100 c. c.\nGlycerine 100 c. c.\nGlacial acetic acid 10 c. c.\nHaematoxylin 2 grm.\nAlum in excess.\nLet the mixture ripen in the light until it\nacquires a dark red color. It will then keep,\nwith a perfectly constant staining power, for\nyears, if kept in a well stoppered bottle. Sections\nare stained in a few minutes. The stain is also\nvery appropriate for staining in the mass, as\noverstaining does not occur.\nIn order to get a blue stain with this acid so-\nlution, the stained objects should be washed\nout with common drinking water, which is al-\nways slightly alkaline, and not with distilled\nwater.\nPurpurin.— Ranvier s formula (Traite Tech-\nnique).— Two hundred grm. water and 1 grm.\nalum are boiled in a porcelain capsule; purpurin\nrubbed up in water is added, and the boiling\ncontinued. The purpurin being dissolved to\nsaturation (this is insured by taking care to have\nan undissolved excess in the capsule), the solu-\ntion is filtered hot into a flask containing 60 c. c.\nof alcohol (36° Cartier 90%).\nMetallic Stains— Silver Nitrate The Solu-\ntions to be Employed (Ranvier).— The solu-\ntions generally employed by Ranvier vary in\nstrength from 1-300 to 1-500. Thus 1-300 is used\nfor the epiploon, pulmonary endothelium, car-\ntilage, tendon, while a strength of 1*500 is em-\nployed for the study of the phrenic center, and\nfor that of the epithelium of the intestine.\nFor the impregnation of the endothelium of\nblood vessels (by injection), solutions of 1*500\nto 1*800 are taken.\nM. Duval (Precis) recommends solutions of 1,\n2, or at most 3%.\nV. Recklinghausen used, for the cornea, a\nstrength of from 1—400 or 1—500 (Die Lymph-\ngefasse, etc., Berlin, 1862).\nRobinski (A rch. de Physiol., 1869) used solu-\ntions varying between 0*1 and 0*2$, which he\nallowed to act for thirty seconds.\nReich (Sitzb. d. wien. Acad., 1873, iii, Abth.,\nApril; Zeit. f. wiss. Mik.) takes solutions of\nfrom L-600 to 1—400, for the study, of the en-\ndothelium of vessels by injection.\nRouget (Arch, de Physiol., 1873) employed so-\nlutions as weak as 1 —750 or even 1—1,000, expos-\ning the tissues to their action several times\nover, and washing them with water after each\nbath.\nGold Stains.— Thus Bastian modified Cohn-\nheim s original method by employing a solution\nof gold chloride of a strength of 1,000 to 2,000,\nacidulated with HC1 (1 drop to 75 c. a), and\nperforming the reduction in a mixture of equal\nparts of formic acid and water, kept warm\nheat being an agent that furthers reduction.\nHenocque (Arch. deVAnat. et dela Physiol.,\n1870) impregnates in a 0*5 solution of gold chlo-\nride, washes in water for twelve to twenty-four\nhours, and reduces, with the aid of heat, in a\nnearly saturated solution of tartaric acid. The\ntartaric acid solution must be contained in a\nwell-stoppered bottle. The best temperature for\nreduction is 40° to 50° C. Reduction is effected\nvery rapidly, and sometimes in a quarter of an\nhour.\nPerchloride of Iron.— This reagent, intro-\nduced by Polaillon (Journ. de VAnat., iii, 1866),\nsometimes gives most useful results, especial-\nly in the study of peripheral nerve ganglia,\nin which it stains the nervous tissue alone, the\nconnective tissue remaining colorless. The\nmethod consists in impregnating in perchlor-\nide of iron, and reducing in tannic, gallic, or\npyrogallic acid.\nThe Hoggans, who have done very good work\nwith this reagent, proceed as follows (Journ.\nBuekett Club, 1876; Journ. Boy. Mic. Soc. ii*","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0354.jp2"},"351":{"fulltext":"Milk.\n339\nMoles.\n1879): The tissue (having been first fixed with\nsilver nitrate, which is somewhat reduced by a\nshort exposure to diffused light) is dehydrated\nin alcohol, and treated for a few minutes with\n2% solution of perchloride of iron in spirit. It\nis then treated with a 2% solution of pyrogallic\nacid in spirit, and in a few minutes more, ac-\ncording to the depth of tint required, may be\nwashed in water and mounted in glycerine.\nCombination Stains.— Renaut s Hasmatoxylic\nEosin (Pors Lehrbuch). Renaut has given from\ntime to time several formulas for this stain.\nThis one, communicated to Fol by Renaut, is\nthe latest\nConcentrated aqueous solution\nof potassic eosin (eosine a la\npotasse) 30 c. c.\nSaturated solution of haematox.\nin alcohol (ought to have been\nkept some time and to have\nprecipitated) 40 c. c.\nSaturated solution of potash al-\num in glycerine (of a density\nof aoout 1-26) 130 c. c.\nMix, and let the mixture stand five or six\nweeks in a vessel covered with a sheet of paper\npierced with holes until the alcohol is evap-\norated, then filter.\nFor staining, the solution may be used as it\nis or diluted.\nMethyl Green and Bismarck Brown.— (List,\nZeit. f. wiss. Mik., ii, 1885).— Stain for a few-\nminutes in Weigert s Bismarck brown wash,\nand stain in 0*5^ aqueous solution of methyl\ngreen. Clear with bergamot oil or xylol, and\nmount in balsam.\nOr, dilute the Bismarck brown for staining\nwith 3 volumes of absolute alcohol, wash out\nwith strong alcohol, and stain for a few min-\nutes in the methyl green solution diluted with\n3 volumes of absolute alcohol.\nOr, stain for twenty-four hours in the Bis-\nmarck brown solution diluted with 50 volumes\nof water, and then for twenty-four hours in\nthe methyl green solution diluted with 50 vol-\numes of water.\nMilks, Cosmetic. £ee Cosmetics.\nMilk, to Test for Water.— A German\nchemist furnishes a very simple procedure for\ntesting the amount of water in milk. All that\nis required is a small quantity of plaster of\nParis, say, 1 oz. This is mixed with the milk to\na stiff paste and then allowed to stand. With\nmilk of 1,030 specific gravity and a tempera-\nture of 60° P., it will harden in ten hours; if\n25# of water is present, in two hours; if 50$, in\none hour and a half; and with 15%, in thirty\nminutes. Skimmed milk which has been stand-\ning for twenty-four hours, and is of 1,033 spe-\neittc gravity, sets in four hours; with 5W of\nVater in one hour; and with 15% in 30 minutes.\nHeat should not be applied, as then the use\nof the thermometer would be required. This\ntest is certainly very simple and not costly.\nMilk, to Keep from Souring.— A small\nquantity of boracic acid added to milk will\nkeep it from souring and delay the separation\nof cream. It can be kept several days by this\nmeans.\nMill Picks, to Temper. See Temper-\ning.\nMinargent. See Alloys.\nMineral Waters. See Waters.\nMinerals, Cement for. See Cements.\nMinerals, Hardness of:\n2. Rock Salt Scratched by finger nail.\n3. Calcite\n4 Fluor\n5* Apatite Scratched by a knife blade.\n6. Orthoclase J\n7. Quartz 1\n8. Topaz I May be roughly distin-\n9. Corundum f guished by a file.\n10. Diamond J\nMinofor. See Alloys.\nMint Cordial. See Liquors.\nMirbane, essence of. Name for nitro-\nbenzol.\nMirrors, Amalgam for. See Amal-\ngam,\nMirrors, to Repair.— Remove the silver-\ning from the glass around the scratch so that\nthe clear space will be about a quarter of an\ninch wide. Thoroughly clean the clear space\nwith a clean cloth and alcohol. Near the\nedge of a broken piece of looking glass mark\nout a piece of silvering a little larger than\nthe clear space on the mirror to be repaired.\nNow place a very minute drop of mercury on\nthe center of the patch and allow it to remain\nfor a few minutes, clear away the silvering\naround the patch, and slide the latter from the\nglass. Place it over the clear spot on the mir-\nror, and gently press it down with a tuft of\ncotton. This is a difficult operation, and we\nwould advise a little practice before trying it\non a large mirror.\nMirrors, to Silver. See Silvering.\nMites. To Clean Canary Birds of Mites.\nPut a clean white cloth over the cage at\nnight. In the morning destroy the mites,\nwhich leave the bird, and will be found on the\ncloth. Take the cage apart and wash thor-\noughly.\nMixed Goods, to Dye. See Dyeing.\nMixture. In pharmacy.— A compound\nliquid medicine, taken in divided doses. Mix-\ntures are usually extemporaneous prepara-\ntions, and in prescribing them, care should be\ntaken not to bring together substances that\ndecompose each other, nor to order heavy\npowders that speedily separate by subsidence.\nMocking Bird Food. 1. Hempseed, 3\nparts; toasted wheat bread, 2 parts; maw\nseed, 1 part; ox heart, 1 part. Boil the ox\nheart well in water, cut it small, and\nplace it in a pan in an oven, where it must be\nallowed to become perfectly dry and crisp.\nAll the ingredients must then be thoroughly\nmixed and ground in a mill to coarse powder.\n2. Mix together two parts corn meal. 2\nparts pea meal, and 1 part moss meal; add a\nlittle melted lard, but not sufficient to make\nthe mixture too greasy, and sweeten with mo-\nlasses. Fry in frying pan for half an hour,\nstirring constantly, and taking care not to let\nit burn; this makes it keep well. Put it in a\ncovered jar.\nModeling Clay. Knead dry clay with\nglycerine instead of water, work thoroughly\nwith the hands, moisten work at intervals of\nx two or three days, keep covered with an old\npiece of rubber cloth to prevent evaporation\nof moisture.\nMoire Metallique. See Tin.\nMolasses, to Clarify.— Common molasses\nmay be clarified and rendered much more\npalatable by heating it over the fire and pour-\ning in sweet milk in the proportion of one pint\nto a gallon of molasses. When the molasses\nboils up once, the albumen in the milk collects\nall the impurities in a thick scum upon the top,\nwhich must be carefully removed, and the\nmolasses is then fit for use. Bullock s blood is\nalso used for this purpose, but milk is more\nagreeable in many ways for domestic use.\nMoles.— Croton oil, under the form of pom-\nmade or ointment and potassio-tartrate or an-\ntimony, under the form of paste or plaster, have\neach recently been successfully employed, on\nthe Continent, for the removal of ordinary\nmoles and nasvi. The following is the mode or","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0355.jp2"},"352":{"fulltext":"Mordant.\n340\nMosquitoes.\nusing the latter adopted by an eminent French\nsurgeon\nTartar emetic, in impalpable pow-\nder 15grn.\nSoap plaster, emplastrum sapo-\nnis ldrm.\nand beat them to a paste. Apply this paste to\nnearly a line in thickness (not more), and cover\nthe whole with strips of gummed paper. In\nfour or five days eruption or suppuration will\nset in, and, in a few days after, leave, in place\nof the naevus, only a very slight scar. Croton\noil ointment effects the same, but less com-\npletely unless repeated, by producing a pustu-\nlar eruption, which, however, does not perma-\nnently mark the skin.\nThe following courses of treatment are supe-\nrior to that just given.\nTrue naevi a*e often mistaken for these. A\nsimple mole is a deposit of pigment in the sub-\nstance of the skin. Treatment\n1. Calcium chloride 1 part.\nWater 2 parts.\nTo be rubbed in nightly.\n2. Bitter almond emulsion 1 oz.\nSubnitrate of bismuth.. 1 oz.\nCalcium chloride 3^ oz.\nOatmeal water 23^ oz.\nTo be used every morning.\n3. Prepared chalk 2oz.\nCarbonate of bismuth 2 oz.\nCalcium chloride 3^ oz.\nPowdered borax y% oz.\nCarbonate of soda y% oz.\nEmulsion of bitter almonds 2 oz.\nMilk 2 oz.\nGlycerine 2 oz.\nStarch y% oz.\nOatmeal water 2 oz.\nWhite wax 1 oz.\nCream 1 oz.\nCucumber juice 1 oz.\nEmulsion of pistachio nuts 1 oz.\n4. Mole Salve.— Diachylon plaster, 1 oz.; tar-\ntar emetic, 2 drm.; Croton oil, 10 drops. Spread\na plaster just the size of the mole, and leave it\non until it suppurates; remove and let it heal.\nIt may leave a slight scar.\n5. Corrosive sublimate, 5 grn.; muriatic acid,\n30 drops; lump sugar, 1 oz.; alcohol, 2 oz.; rose\nwater, 7 oz. Agitate together till all is dis-\nsolved. Apply night and morning.\nMordant.— A chemical preparation applied\nto fix the colors with which a textile has been\ndyed.\nMordants. See Dyeing.\nMortar.— A mortar that can hardly be\npicked to pieces is made as follows Mix equal\nparts of lime and brown sugar with water, and\nbe sure the lime is thoroughly air slaked. This\nmortar is equal to Portland cement, and is of\nextraordinary strength.\nMortar, Impenetrable. To make impenetra-\nble mortar, mix thoroughly 34 of fresh un-\nslaked lime with of sand; and let 5 laborers\nmake mortar of these ingredients, by pouring\non water with trowels, to supply one mason,\nwho must, when the materials are sufficiently\nmixed, apply it instantly as cement or plaster,\nand it will become as hard as stone. The lime\nused should be stone lime; previous to its use it\nshould be preserved from the access of air or\nwet, and the plaster screened for some time\nfrom the sun and wind.\nMortar, to Make.—l. Mortar is composed of\nquicklime and sand, reduced to a paste with\nwater. The lime ought to be pure, completely\nfree from carbonic acid, and in the state of a\nvery fine powder; the sand should be free from\nclay, partly in the state of fine sand, and partly\nin the of gravel; the water should be pure;\nand if previously saturated with lime, so much\nthe better. The best proportions are 3 parts of\nfine and 4 parts of coarse sand, 1 part of quick-\nlime, recently slaked, and as little water as\npossible.\n2. The addition of burnt bones improves\nmortar, by giving it tenacity and rendering it\nless apt to crack in drying; but they ought\nnever to exceed 34 of the lime employed.\n3. When a little manganese is added to the\nmortar, it acquires the important property of\nhardening under water; so that it may be em-\nployed in constructing those edifices which are\nconstantly exposed to the action of water.\nLimestone is often combined with manganese;\nin that case it becomes brown by calcination.\nK horassar or Turkish Mortar.— One part pow-\ndered brick and tiles; 2 parts fine sifted lime.\nMix with water to the desired consistency, put\non layers of 5 or 6 inches in thickness, between\nthe courses of brick and stone. This mortar is\nused where great solidity is required in build-\nings.\nMortar, Waterproof.— Instead of slaking in\nthe usual manner use a solution of copperas\ndissolved in warm water and use only fine\nquartz sand.\nMosaic Gold, to Make.— Bisulphide of\ntin, bronze powder, arnum musivum. (Sn S 2\nknown also as mosaic gold; it forms a beautiful\nyellow flaky compound, which is obtained by\npreparing an amalgam of 12 parts of tin and 6\nparts of mercury; this is reduced to powder and\nmixed with 7 parts of sublimed sulphur and 6\nparts of sal ammoniac. This mixture is intro-\nduced into a flask with a long neck, and is\nheated gently so long as any smell of sulphur-\neted hydrogen is perceptible; the temperature\nis then raised to low redness, calomel and cinna-\nbar are sublimed, and a scaly mass of Sn S 2 re-\nmains. If the heat be pushed too far, part of the\nsulphur is expelled and the operation fails; the\nsal ammoniac appears by its volatilization to\nmoderate the heat produced during the sul-\nphuration of the tin, which would otherwise\nrise so high as to decompose the bisulphide.\nMoselle Wine. See Wines.\nMosquitoes.— 1. To clear a room of mosqui-\ntoes, take a small piece of gum camphor in a tin\nvessel and evaporate it over a flame, taking\ncare it does not ignite. A sponge dipped in cam-\nphorated spirits and made fast to the top of the\nbedstead will be found serviceable in the sleep-\ning room. Decoction of pennyroyal, applied to\nthe exposed parts, will effectuaDy keep off these\ntroublesome insects. American Pharmacist.\n2. A small amount of pennyroyal sprinkled\naround the room will drive away mosquitoes.\n3. Burning a small quantity of Persian insect\npowder in a room is said to be efficient in driv-\ning away mosquitoes.\nMosquito and Gnat Bites.— Carbolate of lime,\n10 grn.; water, 1 drm. It is said that a weak\nsolution of carbolic acid— 1 part in 50— used as\na wash, will prevent their attacks.\nTo alleviate the unpleasant sensation caused\nby the bite of the mosquito, various remedies\nhave been suggested. Among them are oil of\ncloves, ammonia, bicarbonate of soda, chloro-\nform, thymol and ordinary soap. Doctors say,\nwe have in our own experience obtained more\nrelief from solution of cocaine, 4$, than from\nanything else.\nMosquito Oil:\nOil of tar 1 oz.\nOlive oil 1 oz.\nOil of pennyroyal 3^ oz.\nSpirit of camphor K oz.\nGlycerine oz.\nCarbolic acid 2 drm.\nMix. Shake well before using.\nSee also Cosmetics (Lotions).\nMosquito Tincture\nEucalyptol 10 parts.\nAcetic ether 5 parts.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0356.jp2"},"353":{"fulltext":"Moths.\n341\nMoths.\nEau de cologne 40 parts.\nTincture of insect powder (1 to\n5S.V.R.) 50 parts.\nMix.\nFor sponging the skin a mixture of 1 part of\nthis with 3 to 6 parts of water may be used.\nThe tincture is also useful for spraying in\napartments; for this purpose 1 part may be\nmixed with 10 parts water, and used in a spray\nproducer.\nMoths. Receipt for Destroying Moths.—\nTake equal parts oil of camphor and spirits of\nturpentine. Soak blotting paper in the mix-\nture. Let the paper dry, then lay among furs\nor clothing.\nMoth Exterminators.— The National Druggist\ngives the f ollowing among other formulas for\nmoth exterminators\n1. Lupulin 1 drm.\nSnuff 2oz.\nCamphor 1 oz.\nCedar Sawdust 4 oz.\nMix.\nThis is to be used for sprinkling where the\nmoths frequent.\n2. Carbolic acid, gum camphor,\neach 1 oz.\nBenzine 1 pt.\nDissolve the gum and carbolic acid in the\nbenzine.\nApply by saturating a piece of blotting\npaper, or use it in form of spray by use of an\natomizer.\nThe following is recommended for sprinkling\namong furs,, clothes, etc., to prevent the rava-\nges of moths\n3. Patchouly herb 100 parts.\nValerian 50 parts.\nCamphor 40 parts.\nOrris, sumbul, each 50 parts.\nOil of patchouly, otto of roses,\neach 1 part.\nThe various ingredients are broken up as\nsmall as possible, passed through a wide sieve\nto separate the coarser pieces, and freed from\ndust by a fine sieve. The oils are mixed with\nthe orris root, and all the ingredients are then\ncombined.\n4. Powdered cloves 50 parts.\nPowdered black pepper 100 parts.\nPowdered quassia 100 parts.\nSprinkle with—\nOil of cassia, oil of bergamot,\neach 2 parts.\nCamphor 5 parts.\nPreviously dissolved in—\nEther 20 parts.\nThen mix with—\nCarbonate of ammonium 20 parts.\nPowdered orris 20 parts.\nMoth Liquid\n5. Spirit of wine 500 parts.\nNaphthaline 10 parts.\nCarbolic acid 10 parts.\nCamphor 5 parts.\nEssence lemon 5 parts.\nOils of thyme, lavender and\nsavine (of each) 2 parts.\nThis can be used by sprinkling over furs,\nclothes, carpets, furniture, etc., or, better still,\nby application by a spray producer.\nMoth and Roach Exterminator.— 1. Benzine is\nsaid to be more effective than anything else for\nexterminating moths, roaches, etc.\n2. A little alum or borax solution in hot water\ninjected into the cracks and applied by a cloth\nto the wood work in the vicinity of these hiding\nplaces is usually effectual.\n3. Common salt is also very highly recom-\nmended.\nMoths in Furniture.— I. There are two species\nof moths which infest furniture. One is a large\nfly of silvery white color; the worm of the\nsame is shaped like a chestnut worm, and is\nf amiliarly known. It rarely infests furniture.\nThe other is a small fly of a dark drab color the\nworm is about one-fourth of an inch long, and\ntapering from the head to the tail. It was first\nobserved by upholsterers about thirteen years\nago. This fly penetrates a sofa or chair, gener-\nally between the back and seats of sofas, or\nunder the seats, where the vacancy among the\nsprings affords a safe retreat. It may make a\nlodgment in one week after the furniture is\nplaced in the house. If such should be the case,\nin two months* the worm will appear and the\ncontinual process of procreation in a few\nmonths increases the number to thousands.\nThis moth has no season. It destroys in winter\nand? summer alike, and is kept in active fife by\nthe constant heat of the house. We find at the\nsame time, in the same piece of furniture, the\nfly, the worm, and the eggs; thus showing that\nthey are breeding and destroying all the time.\nIt does notseat pure curled hair, but fastens its\ncocoon to it, the elasticity of which prevents\nits being disturbed, The inside of furniture is\nused by it only for the purposes of propaga-\ntion. The worm when ready for food crawls\nout and destroys the covoring, if of woolen or\nplush material, and falling to the carpet, de-\nstroys it. It rarely cuts through plush from\nthe inside, as it is of cotton back, but there are\ninstances where the worms have cut up muslin\non the outside back of sofas. There is no pro-\ntection against them but continual care. New\nfurniture should be removed from the walls at\nleast twice a week in the spring and summer,\nand should be well whisked all round, and par-\nticularly under the seats, to prevent the fly\nfrom lodging. This is an effectual preventive,\nand the only one known.\n2. Cayenne pepper.\n3. Scotch snuff.\n4. Camphor.\n5. Turpentine, and all other remedies for pro-\ntection from the large moth are of little or no\navail against the furniture moths.\n6. Saturation with alcohol will not destroy\nthem when in a piece of furniture. If the fur-\nniture is infested, they may be removed by\ntaking off the muslin from under the seats and\noff the outside ends and backs, where they con-\ngregate most, and exposing to the air as much\nas possible. Beat well with a whisk or the open\nhand, and kill all the flies and worms which\nshow themselves. This done often will disturb\nthem, and may make them leave the furniture,\nin their desire to be left in quiet. When the\nfurniture is free from moths and is to be left\nduring the summer months without attention,\nit may be protected by camphor in small bags\nor highly concentrated patchouly. The safest\nway is to have the furniture well whisked\ntwice a week.\n7. If the moths attack the carpet, spread a\nwet sheet on the carpet, and run a hot flat iron\nover it quickly the steam will effectually de-\nstroy both worms and eggs.\nMoths, a Pleasant Perfume and Preventive\nagainst. Take of cloves, caraway seeds, nut-\nmeg, mace, cinnamon and Tonquin beans, of\neach 1 oz.; then add as much Florentine orris\nroot as will equal the other ingredients put to-\ngether; grind the whole well to powder, and\nthen put it in little bags among your clothes,\netc. Almost anything aromatic will keep off\nmoths. The common bog myrtle which grows\nso freely in swampy places, is an excellent an-\ntidote. A piece of linen, moistened with tur-\npentine and put into the wardrobe or drawers\nfor a single day, two or three times a year, is\nalso a sufficient preservative against moths.\nMoth Powders. See Powders.\nMoths, to Keep from Sleigh Robes.— Alcohol, 1\npt.; camphor, oz.; dissolve. Spray with this\nliquid before storing.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0357.jp2"},"354":{"fulltext":"Moulds.\n342\nMucilages.\nMoulds. —Mould for Alloys.— Plaster of\nParis mixed with equal parts of powdered pum-\nice stone makes a fine mould for casting- fusible\nmetals. The same mixture is useful for incas-\ning- articles to be soldered, or brazed. Casts of\nplaster of Paris may be made to imitate fine\nbronzes by giving them two or three coats of\nshellac varnish, and when dry applying a coat\nof mastic varnish and dusting on fine bronze\npowder when the mastic varnish becomes\nsticky.\nMould for Statuary.— The flexible moulds re-\nferred to are prepared as follows Glue, 8 lb.; mo-\nlasses (New0rleans),71b. Soak the glue overnight\nIn a small quantity of cold water, then melt it\nby heat over a salt water bath, stir until froth\nbegins to rise, then add and stir in briskly the\nmolasses, previously heated. Continue to heat\nand stir the mixture for about thalf an hour;\nthen pour.\nMoulding Wax. See Waxes.\nBlackening for Moulds.— Charcoal powder or,\nin some instances, fine coal dust.\nMoulds, Gelatine.— 1. Allow 12 oz. of gelatine\nto soakfor a few hours in water until it has ab-\nsorbed as much as it can, then apply heat, by\nwhich it will liquefy. If the mould is required\nto be elastic, add 3 oz. of treacle and mix well\nwiih the gelatine. If a little chrome alum\n(precise proportions are immaterial) be added\nto the gelatine, it causes it to lose its property\nof being again dissolved in water. A saturated\nsolution of bichromate of potash brushed over\nthe surface of the mould, allowed to become\ndry and afterward exposed to sunlight for a\nfew min utes, renders the surface so hard as to\nbe unaffected by moisture.\n2. Take the very best glue you can get, place\nit in plenty of cold water at night, the next\nmorning take it out; you will find it swollen;\nthe water it has absorbed during the night is\nsufficient to melt it by heat; mix then as much\nthick glycerine with it as you had glue, and\nkeep the vessel containing them in a steam or\nwater bath till all the water is about evapor-\nated, and till you have left as much in weight\nas the weight of the dry glue and the glycerine\ntaken together amounted to. You will then\nhave a compound of glue and glycerine which\nwill never dry, and a mould made of it can be\nused over and over again.\n3. A good gelatine mould may be made in the\nfollowing manner Soak the best white glue in\ncold water for 24 hours, then drain off all the\nwater. Melt the soaked glue in a water- jack-\neted kettle, then pour the glue upon the object,\nthe latter being incased in a lead or pasteboard\nbox. Let it cool for 12 hours, then separate the\ncast from the object. If the object be a statu-\nette, a thread should be attached to the back,\nand extended out of the mould at both ends, so\nthat it may be used for cutting open the\nmould after it is cooled, to permit of taking-\nout the statuette. A good material for a\nmould is made in the following way Dis-\nsolve 20 parts of fine gelatine in 100 parts of\nhot water, and add 14 part of tannin and the\nsame amount of rock candy. It is said that a\nmould made of gelatine or glue alone may be\nmade more durable by pouring over it a solu-\ntion of bichromate of potash in water, 1 part\nof bichromate to 10 parts of water, and after-\nward exposing it to sunlight. Most objects re-\nquire oiling slightly before being covered with\nglue or gelatine.\nPreparation of Paraffin Moulds for Plaster\nCasts.— Prepare the specimen or preparation,\nmaking it as clean as possible; place on oiled\npaper, in a position that will show it to advan-\ntage. Soft projections may be held in position\nwith threads suspended from a frame or from\na heavy cord stretched across the room. Par-\naffin melted in a water bath is painted over the\npreparation with a soft brush, the first layer\nIteing put on with single and quick strokes,\nthat the rapid cooling of the paraffin may not\ncause the brush to adhere to the preparation,\nthus drawing the soft tissues out of place, un-\ntil the mould is formed about in. thick; all\nundercuts must be well filled. When the mould\nis hard it can be readily separated from the\npreparation, it is then well washed with cold\nwater. Stir fine dental plaster into cold water\nto consistency of cream, pour into the mould\nand out again several times, so that there will\nbe no air bubbles on the surface, then fill the\nmould and let it stand until hard. Place the\nwhole in a vessel containing boiling water un-\ntil the paraffin is all melted; wash with clean\nboiling water. When the cast is thoroughly\ndry it may be painted with oil colors by coating\nit first with shellac varnish. Casts of any part\nof the body may be made from a living subject\nif the parts are not too sensitive to bear the\nheat of the paraffin, which is about 150° F.—\nAnnals of Surgery.\nMountants. See Pastes.\nMousset s Alloy. See Alloys.\nMouth Glue. See Glues.\nMo u tli Pastilles. See Cachous.\nMucilages. See also Pastes and Ce-\nments.\n1. The best quality of mucilage in the market\nis made by dissolving- clear glue in equal vol-\numes of water and strong vinegar, and adding\none-fourth of an equal volume of alcohol, and\na small quantity of a solution of alum in water.\nThe action of the vinegar is due to the acetic\nacid which it contains. This prevents the glue\nfrom gelatinizing by cooling; but the same re-\nsult may be accomplished by adding a small\nquantity of nitric acid. Some of the prepara-\ntions offered for sale are merely boiled starch\nor flour mixed with nitric acid to prevent the\ngelatinizing.\n2.A strong; aqueous solution of reasonably pure\ndextrin (British gum) forms a most adhesive and\ncheap mucilage. Alcohol, or rather diluted wine\nspirit, is usually employed as the solvent where\nthe mucilage is to be used for gumming- enve-\nlopes, postage stamps, etc., in order to facilitate\nthe drying,,and acetic acid is added to increase\nthe mobility of the fluid. The strong- aqueous\nsolution is more adhesive than that prepared\nwith alcohol, for the reason that it contains a\ngreater proportion of the gum. To prepare this,\nadd an excess of powdered dextrin. to boiling\nwater, stir for a moment or two, allow to cool\nand settle, and strain the liquid through a fine\ncloth. The addition of a little powdered sugar\nincreases the glossiness of the dried gum, with-\nout interfering greatly with its adhesiveness.\nThe sugar should be dissolved in the water be-\nfore the dextrin is added.\n3. Add British gum (dextrin) to a quantity of\nhot water until a sirupy liquid is obtained; then\nadd a few drops of clove oil, and cool for use.\nCasein Mucilage.— Take the curd of skim milk\n(carefully freed from cream or oil), wash it\nthoroughly, and dissolve it to saturation in a\ncold concentrated solution of borax. This\nmucilage keeps well, and as regards adhesive\npower far surpasses the mucilage of gum arabic.\nElastic Mucilage.— Glycerine, 4^£ parts; soft\nsoap, 414 parts; dissolve 1% parts salicylic acid\nin 30 parts alcohol. Shake thoroughly, and add\nto a mucilage made of 139^ parts gum arabic\nand about 270 parts water. This mucilage re-\nmains elastic when dried, arid does not have a\ntendency to crack.\nGlass, Mucilage to Adhere to.— 1. A strong\nmucilage capable of fastening wood or porce-\nlain and glass together is made of 8^£ oz. strong\ngum arabic solution, to which a solution of 30\ngi^n. sulphate of aluminum dissolved in oz.\nwater is added.\n2. Put 1 or 2 drops of glycerine in a small\nbottle of mucilage. This will prevent the gum\ncracking or drying. Too much glycerine must\nnot be added, as that would prevent the gum\nfrom hardening.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0358.jp2"},"355":{"fulltext":"Mucilages.\n343\nMyrrh.\nMucilage of Gum Arabic— 1. To make a clear,\nalmost odorless and permanent mucilage,\nFrancke neutralizes the free acid present in\nthe gum with lime water. Instead of water he\nuses a mixture 20$ lime water and 80$ dis-\ntilled water.\n2. Ordinary mucilage, made from gum arabic,\ndoes not fix paper to wood or pasteboard, or to\nmetallic surfaces. These disadvantages are\novercome by adding a solution of sulphate of\naluminum, made up in ten times its quantity\nof water. Ten grn. aluminum sulphate are\nsufficient for 250 grn. mucilage. Prepared in\nthis way it will not become mouldy. Again,\naccording to Hirschberg, a few drops of strong\nsulphuric acid are added to the gum solution,\nand the precipitated sulphate of lime allowed\nto settle. Solutions prepared in this way a year\nand a half ago have neither become mouldy nor\nlost their adhesive power.\nGum, to Preserve. 1. Hirschberg adds a\nfew drops of sulphuric acid, whereby the lime\ncontained in the gum is precipitated as sul-\nphate after standing, the mucilage is strained\noff, and exhibits no tendency to mouldiness,\neven after standing for eighteen months. Les\nMondes.\n2. Moisten the gum with alcohol, then dis-\nsolve in water and add a few drops of sulphuric\nacid. After the deposition of the precipitated\ncalcic sulphate, a perfectly colorless solution\nof gum is obtained, even when inferior kinds of\ngum are used.\n3. To preserve gum solutions, a few drops of\noil of cloves, alcohol or acid will preserve a\nquart of the mucilage of gum arabic of gum\ntragacanth from turning sour. A small quan-\ntity of dissolved alum will preserve flour\npaste.\nLabels, Mucilage for.—l. The following is\nhighly recommended by Dr. Carpenter: Dis-\nsolve 2 oz. gum arabic in 2 oz. water, then add\n34 oz. soaked gelatine (heat required), 30 drops\nof glycerine, and a lump of camphor. See also\nCements and Pastes.\n2. A good mucilage for labels is made by mac-\nerating 5 parts of good glue in 18 to 20 parts\nwater for a day, and to the liquid add 9 parts\nrock candy and 3 parts gum arabic. The mix-\nture can be brushed upon paper while still luke-\nwarm.\n3. Dextrine 2 parts.\nAcetic acid 1 part.\nWater 5 parts.\nAlcohol 1 part.\nOr 4. Gelatine 2 parts.\nRock candy 1 part.\nWater 3 parts.\nMucilage, Linseed. Linseed, 1 oz.; warm\nwater, 6 oz. Digest for six hours, stir and then\nstrain.\nPaper, to Make it Adhere to Metals.— M.\nEliel gives the following formula for a mix-\nture which can be used for metal, glass or wood:\nGum tragacanth, 30 grms; acacia gum, 120\ngrm.; water, 500 c. c. Dissolve, filter and add\n2]4 grin, of thymol suspended in 120 c. c. of\nglycerine; then add enough water to make up\nthe bulk to 1 liter. This bath will keep a long\ntime.— Revue Pliotographique.\nPocket Mucilage.— Boil 1 lb. of the best white\nglue and strain very clear; boil also 4 oz. of\nisinglass and mix the two together; place them\non a water bath with half a pound of white\nsugar, and evaporate till the liquid is quite\nthick, when it is to be poured into moulds, cut\nand dried to carry in the pocket. This mucil-\nage immediately dissolves in water and fast-\nens paper very firmly.\nPostage Stami Mucilage— Gum dextrin, 2\nparts; water, 5 parts; acetic acid, 1 part. Dis-\nsolve by aid of heat and add 1 part of 9% alcohol.\nStick Mucilage— Dissolve gum arabic in hot\nwater to form a sirupy liquid, add a little clove\noil and thicken with powdered gum dextrine;\nmould and dry slowly.\nTragacanth Mucilage,— Take of powdered\ntragacanth, 1 drm.; glycerine, 6 drm.; water,\nenough to make in all 10 oz. Rub the traga-\ncanth in a mortar with the glycerine and then\nadd the water. This will produce a mucilage\nat once of excellent quality.\nMum.— A beverage prepared from wheat\nmalt, in a similar way to ordinary beer from\nbarley malt. A little oat and bean meal is fre-\nquently added. It was formerly much drunk\nin England, but its use at the present day is\nchiefly confined to Germany, and to Bi uns-\nwick more particularly.\nMuntz Metal. See Alloys.\nMurexide (Purpurate of Ammonia). A\nsplendid coloring matter, which, when pure,\nforms crystals of a golden green color by re-\nflected light, but of a garnet red by trans-\nmitted light. It yields a reddish brown pow-\nder, which takes a golden green luster if\nrubbed with a hard, smooth body. It is insol-\nuble in alcohol and ether, but dissolves readily\nin boiling water. Its source is the uric acid\nobtained in greatest purity from the excre-\nments of serpents, but more abundantly from\nPeruvian guano.\nMuriate.— Old name for substances con-\ntaining chlorine, the name coming from muri-\natic acid; thus ammonium chloride was muri-\nate of ammonia.\nMusical Instruments, to Keep Moist.\nRub a little pure glycerine on the wood occa-\nsionally and then wipe it dry with a soft cloth.\nMusk.— An odorous substance obtained\nfrom the musk deer (Moschus moschiferus), an\nanimal inhabiting the mountains of eastern\nAsia. It is imported from China, Bengal and\nRussia. The Tonquin musk is most esteemed.\nSee Perfumery.\nMust. The expressed juice of grapes before\nfermentation.\nMustard.— Soyer s is described as follows:\nSteep mustard seed in twice its bulk of dis-\ntilled vinegar for eight days, gi ind to a paste\nand put it into pots, thrusting a red hot poker\ninto each. Moutarde aTEstragon: Gently dry 1\nlb. black mustard seed, then powder it fine and\nmix it with 2 oz. salt and sufficient tarragon\nvinegar to make a paste. In a similar way are\nprepared several other mustards, by employing\nvinegars flavored with the respective sub-\nstances, or walnut or mushroom catsup or the\nliquor of the richer pickles in proportions to\nsuit. Suitable mortars or grinding apparatus\ncan be procured through any jobber in hard-\nware utensils or druggists 1 sundries, provided\nonly the smallest articles are desired, otherwise\nthey will have to be made specially.\nMustard, French.— 1. Take salt, V/a lb.; scraped\nhorse radish, 1 lb.; garlic, 2 cloves, boiling vin-\negar, 2 gal. Macerate in a covered vessel for\ntwenty-four hours, strain and add sufficient\nflour of mustard.\n2. The following is M. Lenormand^ recipe:\nFlour of mustard, 2 lb.; fresh parsley, chervil,\ncelery and tarragon, of each y 2 oz.; garlic, 1\nclove (or head); 12 salt anchovies (all well\nchopped); grind well together, add salt, 1 oz.;\ngrape juice or sugar to sweeten, and sufficient\nwater to f ormthe mass into a thin paste by trit-\nuration in a mortar. When put into pots a\nred hot iron is momentarily thrust into the\ncontents of each, and a little wine vinegar\nadded.\nSoyer s Table Mustard.— Steep 1 pt. mustard\nseed in 1 qt. of distilled vinegar for eight days.\nGrind into paste and put in pots, thrusting a\nred hot poker into each.\nMustiness in Casks.— Burn a little sul-\nphur in the empty casks, bung, and let them,\nstand for a day.\nMyrrh. A gum resin much used in medi-\ncine and in dentistry.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0359.jp2"},"356":{"fulltext":"Nails.\n344\nNegative,\nNails, Ingrowing.— The whole nail should be\nscraped or filed thin, all irregularities being re-\nmoved. Then the extremities should be raised\nand cut off beyond the part to which it is at-\ntached by growth. If the extremity of the\nfinger be thickened and horny it should be\nrubbed down with moistened pumice stone.\nThe future of the nail will now depend on the\nattention that is paid to it. After the opera-\ntion the fingers should be covered with a stall\nfor some weeks, but the latter may be removed\nevery day for the purpose of bathing, etc. So\nsoon as the distal extremity of the nail is seen\nto be growing it should be gently raised and\nthe flesh of the finger pushed down, so as to re-\nmove any impediment to the forward growth\nof the nail. If this be repeated daily, and the\npart protected, the nail will eventually reach\nthe extremity of the fingers. It had better be\nallowed to grow a little beyond this and then\nkept carefully cut.\nNails, Ingrowing.— 1. Wear stockings that are\nat least 14 n longer than the feet.\n2. Wear broad toed shoes or boots that will\nallow the toes to rest without lateral pressure\nwhen standing. If possible, have the boots or\nshoes made over a last which has an elevation\na knob— where the great toe comes, so as to\nstretch the uppers up, thus preventing pres-\nsure on the nails.\n3. Cease cutting the nail in any manner, but\nallow it to grow until it is from J^ in. to in.\nbeyond the quick, bearing the soreness and\npain that will come while growing to that\nlength, with as much patience as possible, but\non no consideration cutting any part of the\nnail. Putting cloth or cotton under it will usu-\nally add to the pain, because increasing the\npressure.\n4. Three or four times a week (every night is\nnot too often), before retiring, soak the feet\nfor half an hour in soap suds as hot as can read-\nily be borne, and with a small blunt knife\nblade carefully remove from under and around\nthe nail any dirt or matter that may have ac-\ncumulated. Soaking the feet will do much\ntoward removing the soreness. After the nail\nhas grown to the required length, it may be\ntrimmed as occasion requires, but always in\nsuch a manner as to leave the end of the nail\nabout the shape of the end of the toe, with the\ncorners at least J4 in. beyond the flesh, until\nthe cure is effected; and even then the nail\nshould never be cut back of the end of the\ntoe.\nWhite Spots on Nail. These are caused by\nopacity of the cells due to injury. Do not ap-\nply any chemicals, but rub the nail with pumice\nstone powder moistened. As the nail grows\nthe spots will disappear.\nDiscolored Nails.— If caused by acids rub the\nnail with liquid ammonia; if by alkalies, use\nvinegar or lemon juice. Nitrate of silver\nstains may be removed by solutions of iodide\nof potassium or sulp hydrate of ammonium;\nfruit and ink stains by oxalic or sulphuric agid in\nwater, or salts of lemon (oxalate of potash).\nThe hands should not, except when the last is\nused, be washed with soap for some hours after\nthe application.\nCera Fortifant, for the Nails\nOil of lentise }4 oz.\nSalt \\i drm.\nResin 1 scruple.\nAlum 1 scruple.\nWax 1 scruple.\nMix together\nOil of bitter almonds 2 oz.\nOil of tartar 2 drm.\nEssence of lemon 6 drops.\nPut up in small vials, and let the label direct a\nfrequent application when the nails are weak\nor loosened.\nPolishing the Nails.— If the nails are stained,\napply a little lemon juice. A little pumice\nstone in a very fine powder, or a little putty\npowder may be used to polish the nails. This is\nfrequently colored with a decoction of cochi-\nneal. Apply with a piece of chamois skin.\nNail Powder. See Powders.\nNails, the, to Prevent from Splitting.— Keep\nthe nails cut short; do not scrape or file them;\nmoisten with a little glycerine.\nNails, tc Whiten.— Snlphuric acid diluted, 3\ndrm.; tincture of myrrh, V/% drm.; spring wa-\nter, 6 oz. Cleanse the hands and apply the\nwash.\nNails, Memoranda Concerning.— This\ntable will show at a glance the length of the\nvarious sizes, and the number of nails in a\npound. They are rated from 3-penny up to\n20-penny. The first column gives the name,\nthe second the length in inches, and the third\nthe number per pound:\n3-penny, 1 in. long, 557 per lb.\n4-penny, 1J4 in. long, 353 per lb.\n5-penny, 1% in. long, 232 per lb.\n6-penny, 2 in. long, 167 per lb.\n7-penny, 2J4 in. long, 141 per lb.\n8-penny, %y% in. long, 101 per lb.\n10-penny, 2% in. long, 98 per lb.\n12-penny, 3 in. long, 54 per lb.\n20-penny, 3)4 in long, 34 per lb.\nSpikes, 4 in. long, 16 per lb.\nSpikes, 4J^ in. long, 12 per lb.\nSpikes, 5 in. long, 10 per lb.\nSpikes, 6 in. long, 7 per lb.\nSpikes, 7 in. long, 5 per lb.\nFrom this table an estimate of quantity and\nsuitable sizes for any job can be easily made.\nThe relative adhesion of nails in the same\nwood, driven transversely and longitudinally, is\nas 100 to 78, or about 4 to 3, in dry elm, and 2 to\n3 in deal.\nNaphtha Ether.— A mixture of benzole\nand alcohol or wood spirit forms a body which\nwill burn without producing soot.\nNaphtha or Rock Oil.— A combustible\nand very volatile liquid resembling turpentine.\nIt is found native and can be prepared artifici-\nally from the distillation of petroleum or coal\ntar. It has many uses and is a very valuable\nsolvent.\nNaphthaline.— One of the secondary pro-\nducts of the gas manufacture, or of the destruc-\ntive distillation of coal. When pure it forms\nthin, White flakes of a pungent taste. It is in-\nsoluble in water, but dissolves readily in alco-\nhol, ether, and in acetic and oxalic acids. It\nmelts at 79° F., and has the sp. gr. T045. It is\nnot readily inflammable and burns with a\nsmoky flame.\nDeodorization of Naphthalin. Naphthalin\nhas such a disagreeable odor that its use in\nmedicine and surgery is considerably retarded\nthereby, and it has been fo -nd that the mix-\nture of camphor and other deodorants with it\nis only of temporary benefit. But if the naph-\nthalin be mixed with some benzoin and then\nsublimed, the sublimate of naphthalin is free\nfrom tarry odor and is pleasant to smell;\nmoreover, it retains this pleasant odor, al-\nthough this is not the case when the naphtha-\nlin is simply mixed with tincture of benzoin\nor benzoic acid.\nNarcotic— A medicine that produces drow-\nsiness, sleep and stupor. In small doses, nar-\ncotics chiefly act as stimulants, but in large\nones they produce calmness of mind, torpor,\nand even coma and death. Opium, henbane,\nhemlock, tobacco, camphor, alcohol, ether, etc.,\nare narcotics.\nNatural History Specimens, to Pre-\nserve. See Anatomical Preparations.\nNectar.— Lump sugar, 1 lb.; cold water, 1\npt.; madeira, 1 bottle. Orate in nutmeg and\nlemon peel.\nNegatives. See Photography.\nNegative Varnish. See Varnishes.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0360.jp2"},"357":{"fulltext":"Negus.\n345\nNomenclature.\nNegus.— A weh known beverage, so named\nafter its originator and patron, Colonel Negus.\nIt is made of either port or sherry wine, mixed\nwith about twice its bulk of hot water, sweet-\nened with lump sugar, and flavored with a little\nlemon juice and grated nutmeg and a small\nfragment only of the yellow peel of the lemon.\nThe addition of about 1 drop of essence of am-\nbergris, or 8 to 10 drops of essence of vanilla\ndistributed between a dozen glasses improves it.\nNergen, See Alloys.\nNessler s Solution. —Twenty-five grm.\nmercuric chloride are dissolved in 800 c. c. dis-\ntilled water; 70 grm. potassium iodide are dis-\nsolved in 400 c. c. water, and the solutions are\nthen mixed. 200 grm. potassium hydroxide.\nWhen it is dissolved and cooled enough water is\nadded to make the whole 2 1. Now place in a\ndark closet, and before using add enough of a\nsaturated solution of mercuric chloride until\nthe red precipitate is dissolved; after filtering\nit is ready for use. It should now be of a light\nstraw color.\nNets, to Protect. See Cleansing (Mil-\ndew).\nNets, to Waterproof. See Waterproof-\ning.\nNeutralization. A term used to denote\nthe reduction of an acid or alkaline solution to\nthat state in which it exhibits no tendency\neither way.\nNickel Acetate, to Prepare.— Precipi-\ntate an aqueous solution of acetate of nickel\nwith excess of a solution of carbonate of soda,\nsettle, decant the liquid, wash the precipitate,\nand dissolve it in warm acetic acid. Concentrate\nby evaporation, and crystallize the salt— ace-\ntate of nickel.\nNickel, to Plate with. See Electro-\nMetallurgy.\nNickel Plate, Rust on. See Rust.\nNiello, or Nielled Silver.— This process\nsomeAvhat resembles enameling*, and consists\nessentially in inlaying engraved metal surfaces\nwith a black enamel. The composition is made\nas follows Put into the first crucible, flowers\nof sulphur, 750 parts; sal ammoniac, 75 parts.\nPut into the second crucible, silver, 15 parts;\ncopper, 40 parts; lead, 80 parts. When this\nmixture is sufficiently fused, the alloy thus\nformed is added to the fused sulphur in the first\ncrucible, which converts the metals into sul-\nphides. The compound is afterward removed\nfrom the crucible and reduced to a fine pow-\nder. To apply the powder, it is mixed with a\nsmall quantity of a solution of sal ammoniac.\nThe entire surface of the engraved silver work\nis covered with the nielling composition; it is\nthen placed in the muffle of an enameling fur-\nnace, where it is left until the composition\nmelts, by which it becomes firmly attached to\nthe metal. The nielling is then removed from\nthe parts in relief, without touching the en-\ngraved surfaces, which then present a pleasing\ncontrast in deep black to the white silver sur-\nfaces. This process is only applicable to en-\ngraved work.\nNitrate.— Syn. Nitras (Lat.).— A salt of nitric\nacid. The nitrates are very easily made by the\ndirect solution of the base, or its oxide or car-\nbonate in nitric acid, which in most cases should\nbe previously diluted with water; by evapora-\ntion they may be obtained either in the pul-\nverulent or crystalline state. The nitrates are\ncharacterized by deflagrating when thrown on\nred hot coal or when heated in contact with\ninflammable substances.\nNiter.— The common name of potassium\nnitrate.\nNiter, Chili.— A name for sodium nitrate.\nNiter, Sweet Spirit of. -This is an alco-\nholic solution of nitrous ether. According to\nthe U. S. Pharmacopoeia, the mixture should\nhave a sp. gr. of 0*837. It becomes acid by age.\nNitrites.— The salts of nitrous acid.\nNitrobenzol. Nitrobenzol is formed by\ntreating benzol with fuming nitric acid; after\nthe violence of the reaction is over, the liquid\nis diluted with water, and the heavy oily fluid is\ncollected, washed, and dried,,\nNomenclature, Chemical. See also\nElements, Table of.\nRules of Chemical Nomenclature. 1. Com-\npounds of two elements, binary compounds,\nare named by placing the name of the positive\natom first, then that of the negative, with its\ntermination changed to ide.\n2. Whenever the positive forms more than\none compound with the same negative, nu-\nmeral prefixes are applied to both constituents,\nthe positive ending in ic, and the negative in\nide.\n3. Different compounds of the same two ele-\nments are also distinguished from each other\nby the termination ous and ic to the name of\nthe positive element, ic indicating the higher\ncombining power, and ous the lower. When\nthere are more than two such compounds, the\nhighest takes the prefix Per, and the lowest,\nHypo.\nThe ternary compounds of chemistry are\nAcids, Bases and Salts.\n1. Acids and salts are named like the binaries,\nfrom their constituents. The positive is placed\nfirst, and may have the same terminations as in\nthe binaries.\n2. The negative molecule which follows this\ntakes its name from its characteristic atom,\nand ends in ate or ite; ate signifying more\noxygen than ite.\n3. Prefixes Per and Hypo are used same as in\nbinaries.\n4. Most acids are also named from the char-\nacteristic atom of the negative molecule. This\nname takes the terminations ous and ic, accord-\ning to the relative amount of oxygen, and is\nfollowed by the word acid.\n5. Bases are regarded as compounds of a pos-\nitive radical with Hydroxyl (HO), and are\ncalled hydrates.\nChemists have found that all bodies, whether\nin the form of a solid, a liquid, or a gas, are\neither simple substances or can be resolved into\nsimple substances, termed elements. These\nelements are represented by symbols, which\nare usually the initial letter or letters of their\nnames. Different elements combine together\nin definite proportions forming an endless va-\nriety of substances, termed compounds.\nElements are classified into metals and non-\nmetals, the former being distinguished by well\nmarked properties, which are absent in the\nlatter. The ultimate particles or atoms which\ncompose any element differ in weight from the\natoms of any other element, and the relative\nweight compared with hydrogen is termed the\natomic weight.\nCompounds are formed, as already stated, by\nthe combination of different elements, thus:\nFeO represents oxide of iron, and MnO, oxide\nof manganese. In many cases two elements\nunite in more than one proportion, such as\nFeO, Fe 2 Fe 3 4 each of which requires a\ndistinguishing name. There are several sys-\ntems of nomenclature, but the simplest f or\ncompounds containing two elements— is that\nof writing the name of the metal first, and the\nnon-metal or least metallic element afterward,\ngiving it the termination ide. When two non-\nmetals combine, the one which is most unlike\na metal is written second. Sometimes Greek\nprefixes are used for the element of the second\nposition, such as mono, di, tri, tetr, etc., to in-\ndicate the number of atoms present.\nAnother system is to make the metal ter-\nminate in ic or ous. That compound which\ncontains the greater proportion of the non-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0361.jp2"},"358":{"fulltext":"Nosegay.\n346\nOils.\nmetallic constituent is distinguished by the\nsuffix ic and that containing the lesser in ous.\nThe following list will illustrate these points\nOchers. See Pigments.\nOdeurs, Odors. In French perfumery\nthe word odeur, 11 like parf um, often enters\nName.\nName.\nName.\nFormula.\nIron oxide,\nFerrous oxide,\nIron protoxide,\nFeO.\nIron trioxide,\nFerric oxide,\nIron sesquioxide,\nFe 2 3\nIron tetroxide,\nTriferric tetroxide,\nBlack oxide of iron.\nFe 3 4\nManganese oxide,\nManganous oxide,\nManganese protoxide,\nMnO.\nManganese dioxide,\nManganic oxide,\nManganese peroxide,\nMnO„.\nAluminum oxide,\nAluminic oxide,\nAlumina,\nA1 2 3\nCalcium oxide,\nCalcic oxide,\nLime,\nCaO.\nMagnesium oxide,\nMagnesic oxide.\nMagnesia,\nMgO.\nTitanium dioxide.\nTitanic acid,\nTiO a\n€arbon monoxide,\nCarbonic oxide,\nCO.\nCarbon dioxide,\nCarbonic acid,\nC0 2\nSilicon dioxide,\nSilicic oxide,\nSilica,\nSi0 2\nPhosphorus pentoxide,\nPhosphoric oxide,\nPhosphoric acid,\nP 2 5\nSulphur dioxide,\nSulphurous oxide,\nSulphurous acid,\nso 2\nSulphur trioxide,\nSulphuric oxide,\nSulphuric acid,\nso 3\nWhen three elements— one being a metal and\nanother oxygen— are combined together, the\nname of the second is made to end in ate. In\nthe following list a few compounds are given\nto illustrate this, but it should be observed\nthat the order of placing the symbols is imma-\nterial. In works on metallurgy the arrange-\nment of formulae in the last column is most\ncommon.\ninto the name of compound perfumes, particu-\nlarly spirits, as in the following examples\nOdeur Delectable\nOil of bergamot drm.\nOil of cloves y^ drm.\nOil of lavender (English) drm.\nOil of rose geranium y% drm.\nEssence of ambergris 10 drops.\nRectified spirit (strongest) pint.\nName.\nIron silicate,\nIron silicate,\nIron sulphate,\nCalcium silicate,\nAluminum silicate.\nCalcium carbonate,\nIron carbonate,\nName.\nFerrous silicate,\nFerrous silicate,\nFerrous sulphate,\nSilicate of lime,\nSilicate of alumina,\nCarbonate of lime, limestone,\nFerrous carbonate,\nFormulae.\nFeSi0 3 or FeO.Si0 2\nFe 2 Si0 4 or 2FeO.SiO a\nFeS0 4 or FeO.S0 3\nCaSi0 3 or CaO.Si0 2\nAl 4 Si 3 0, 2 or 2Al 2 3 .3Si0 3\nCaC0 3 or CaO.C0 2\nFeC0 3 or FeO.C0 2\nNitro-Sulpliuric Acid.— Term applied to\na mixture of nitric and sulphuric acids, which\nis used in the preparation of gun cotton.\nNoble Metals.— Gold, platinum, silver and\na few other metals are called noble metals on\naccount of their affinity for oxygen being so\nweak, for they can remain in fusion for many\nhours in contact with the air without becom-\ning oxidized.\nNosegay. See Perfumes.\nNovargent.— Dissolve recently precipitated\nchloride of silver in a solution of either sodium\nhyposulphite or potassium cyanide. Used\nchiefly to restore old plated goods. The liquid\nis rubbed over the metal to be coated with a\nlittle prepared chalk, and the part is afterward\npolished off with a piece of soft leather.\nNoyau. See Liquors.\nOak, to Darken.— Oak s fumigated by\nliquid ammonia, strength 880°, which may be\nbought at any wholesale chemist s shop. The\nwood should be placed in a dark and airtight\nroom, and half a pint or so of ammonia\npoured into a soup plate, and placed upon\nthe ground in the center of the compart-\nment. This done, shut the entrance, and se-\ncure any cracks, if any, by pasted slips of\npaper. Remember that the ammonia does not\ntouch the oak, but the gas that comes from it\nacts in a wondrous manner upon the tannic\nacid in that wood, and browns it so deeply that\na shaving or two may actually be taken off\nwithout removing the color. The depth of\nshade wiil entirely depend upon the quantity\nof ammonia used and the time the wood is ex-\nposed.\nMix well further add of\nEau de rose 2)4 oz.\nEau de fleurs d oranges 2)4 oz.\nOiled Clotliing. I. Dissolve 1 oz. of beeswax\nin 1 pt. of the best boiled linseed oil over a gentle\nfire, applying when cold with a piece of rag, rub-\nbing it well in and afterward hanging up to\ndry, which will take four or five days.\n2. Paint with boiled linseed oil colored to\nsuit. Tt must be done in very hot room or in a\nbright sunlight. A shoebrush is the best for\napplying it. A little patent drier may be\nadded. It is said that the Chinese use a mixture\nof 1 oz. each of beeswax and soft soap with the\noil, which is then boiled down. If the surface\nseems tacky varnish with shellac varnish. In\nany case apply the oil as thin as possible and let\nit dry perfectly between successive coats.\nOil Cloths, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nOil Cloth.— Flexible Paint for Making.— Size\nwith hot soap and alum solutions, used alter-\nnately, dry and enamel with colors ground fine\nin oil, with plenty of driers and a little turpen-\ntine. Finish with a thin copal varnish if high\ngloss is desired. Harden by drying at about\n200° F. v\nOil Cloths, Paint for. See Paints.\nOil Stains, to Remove. See Cleansing.\nOils. See also Lubricants, and the Hair\nOils.\nThe oils are all arranged in alphabetical order\nand the following general descriptions of pre-\nparing oils will be found in their proper place\nEssential Oils, Perfumery Oils, Refining Oils,\nRancid, to Prevent Oils Becoming, Restoration\nof Resinified Volatile Oil.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0362.jp2"},"359":{"fulltext":"Oils.\n347\nOils.\nAlbeftite Oil.— From albertite, a lustrous black\nmineral found in New Brunswick. A sample\nwas shown in the Colonial Department of the\nInternational Exhibition of 1862. Odor very\nslight; illuminating power high; boiling- point\n338° F., or 126° above that of water.\nA m bergris Oil.— Ambergris, 2 drm.; oil,l pt.;\nby infusion.\nBay Oil.— Laurel Oil Expressed oil of bay.—\nBy expression from either fresh or dried bay\nber.vies. It is limpid and insipid.\nBy decoction, Butter of Bay.— From the ber-\nries by boiling them in water and skimming off\nthe oil. It is of a greenish color and buttery\nconsistence. It is chiefly imported from Italy,\nand is a popular remedy for bruises, sprains,\nrheumatism and deafness. It is also used by\nveterinary surgeons.\nBelmontine Oil.— From Rangoon tar or Bur-\nmese petroleum, by distillation; superheated\nsteam being employed as the heating agent.\nColorless, odor not unpleasant; specific gravity,\n847, but although so heavy the oil is free from\nviscosity, and will rise rapidly in a compara-\ntively long wick; inflaming point 134° F., open\ntest; burns with an exceedingly white light, and\nposesses a very high illuminating power.\nBen Oil.— Behen Oil, Oleum Balatinum.— Ob-\ntained by simple expression from the seeds\nof various species of Moringa, trees re-\nsembling willows, indigenous to Arabia\nand Syria, but grown also iH the West\nIndies. The oil is colorless and odor-\nless, and possesses an agreeable flavor. By\ncooling, the more solid portions separate, and\nthe parts remaining fluid, which are not apt to\nturn rancid, are much used for lubricating\nclocks and watches. Owing to the power of the\noil for retaining odors, it is highly valued by\nperfumers, and is used in the preparation of\nmacassar oil. It is also used in medicine, and\nsometimes as a salad oil. Its specific gravity\nvaries from 0*912 to 0*915 at 60° F. (15-5° C). It\nis said to be occasionally adulterated with olive\noil.\nBenzoin Oil.— Gum benzoin, 7 drm.; oil, 1 pt.;\nby infusion.\nPale Boiled Oil.— Linseed oil, 1% qt.; powdered\nwhite vitriol (sulphate of zinc), 3 oz.; water,\nlj^qt. Boil until the water has all evaporated.\nSettle and decant.\nBnne Oil.— Animal Oil, Dippel s Oil, Oil of\nHartshorn, Oleum Animale Empyreumaticum,\nOleum Cornu Cervi, Oleum Dippellii.\nThis oil is obtained when bone black, or ani-\nmal charcoal is made, by the ignition of bones\nin iron cylinders. After rectification it is\nknown under the above names. The original\nDippeFs oil of pharmacy was produced from\nstag s horns, but all now met with in commerce\nis produced as above mentioned. It is fetid\nand dark colored and has a sp. gr. of 0*970. It is\nchiefly used to make lamp-black.\nOil of Bricks. Sweet oil, 5 parts brick dust,\n1 part; distill.\nButterine.— Oleomargarine, Artificial Butter.\n—The manufacture of artificial butter has of\nrecent years assumed great dimensions in\nAmerica and on the continent. The following\nare the outlines of the process adopted in this\nindustry in the United States\nBeef suet, carefully picked so as to remove\nobjectionable pieces, is thoroughly washed in\nwarm and afterward in cold water. Having\nbeen drained and broken up into small frag-\nments, it is placed in a melting pan, either steam\njacketed or with a steam coil inside, and heated\nto a temperature not exceeding 120° F. (49° C).\nThe fat is afterward drawn off, allowed to cool\nslowly, so as to permit the separation of stearin,\ndown to the temperature of 70° F. (21° C). At\nthis temperature it is kept for twelve hours, or\neven longer, till a distinct granulation is\nnoticed. The semi-solid fat is subjected to\npressure between cloths the solid portion, or\nstearin, is available for candle making, and the\nliquid portion, consisting of olein and margar-\nine, or oleomargarine, is collected for use in\nthe manufacture of butterine. The oil so ob-\ntained is about half the quantity of the fat\noriginally taken. It is too limpid for use in this\nstate, and accordingly is mixed with milk, etc.,\nin the proportion usually of 20 lb. oleomargar-\nine, 8 pints of milk, 6 pints of water, and a\nsmall quantity of annatto, carbonate of soda,\nand salt. This mixture, at a temperature of\n70° F. (21° O), is run upon ice, so as to suddenly\ncool it. It is then ready for packing. Some of\nthe oleomargarine is sent to other localities in\nAmerica or to Europe, either to add to genuine\nbutter or to make butterine. It is stated that\nabout 6,000,000 lb. of the oil are annually ex-\nported from New York.\nCacao Oil or Butter.— Butter of Cacao, Oleum\nCacao Concretum, Butyrum Cacao.\nFrom the seeds or nibs of Theobroma cacao or\nchocolate nuts, gently heated over a fire, then\ndecorticated, and pressed between hot iron\nplates. The nibs are capable of yielding about\n50 per cent, of fat. When pure it is white and\nhas a pleasant odor, and it does not readily be-\ncome rancid. It is soluble in boiling alcohol,\nfrom which it crystallizes on cooling. It fuses\nat about 86° F. (30° G) Its specific gravity varies\nfrom 0945 to 0*952. It is used in pharmacy as a\nbasis for suppositories and pessaries.\nCamphor Oil.— Liquid Camphor. Obtained\nfrom incisions in the wood of the cam-\nphor tree of Borneo and Sumatra (Dryabala-\nnops aromatica), in which it exists in cavities\nin the trunk; also by distillation from the\nbranches of the Campliora officinarum, or laurel\ncamphor tree. Colorless when rectified. Sixty\nlb. of the crude brown oil yield 40 lb. of pure\nwhite oil and 20 lb. of camphor. It rapidly ox-\nidizes in the air. Used to scent soap.\nCarbolized Oil.— Pure carbolic acid, 1 part;\nolive oil, 6 parts. Linseed oil is sometimes\nused as a vehicle, but olive oil is preferable, as\nbeing less prone to oxidation.\nCazeline Oil. An excellent burning oil pre-\npared from petroleum. Bright, limpid, with\nscarcely a trace of color; odor very slight, and\nquite free from any objectionable character;\nsp. gr., 0*805; lowest point of ignition, 144° F.\n(open test); burns with a pure white light; free\nfrom smoke and smell.\nOil (Coal), to Test.— Place a small sample of\nthe oil to be tested in a cup partially immersed\nin a vessel of water, and having placed the bulb\nof a good thermometer in the oil, heat the\nwater gradually, and as the temperature of\nthe oil rises apply the flame of a burning\ntaper to its surface, and note on the ther-\nmometer the degree at which it inflames. This\nshould not occur below 120° F. Many of the\nstandard oils inflame only at temperatures 150°\nF., or higher.\nCocoa Nut Oil.—Syn. Cocoa Nut Butter.— A\nspecies of vegetable butter from the common\ncocoa nut or cocoa palm. It is separated from\nthe dried kernels by hydraulic pressure. Cocoa\nnut oil is frequently confounded with cocoa or\ncacao nut butter, which is the produce of a\ndifferent plant.\nThe dried pulp of the cocoa nut is called\ncopra or copperah, and hence the oil is some-\ntimes called copra oil. As imported, the oil is\nof the consistence of butter, but has a lower\nmelting point, fusing at about 73° to 80° F.\n(22*7° to 26*6° C). When fresh, it has the sweet\ntaste and agreeable odor of the cocoa nut, but\nhas a great tendency to become rancid.\nCod Liver Oil. The fish when landed are\nhanded over to a fish room keeper, whose duty\nit is to split and open the fish and to deposit\nthe livers in small tubs holding 17 or 18 gal.\neach. The tubs are soon afterward collected\nfrom the different fish rooms and conveyed to\nthe manufactory. The livers are here thrown\ninto tubs filled with clean cold water, and,\nafter being well washed and jerked over, are\nplaced on galvanized iron wire sieves tq flrain.\nThey are next put into covered steam jacket","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0363.jp2"},"360":{"fulltext":"Oils.\n348\nOils.\npans, and submitted to a gentle heat for about\nthree-quarters of an hour, after which the\nsteam is turned off, cold air again admitted,\nand the whole allowed to repose for a short\ntime, during which the livers subside, and the\noil separates and floats at the top. The oil is\nthen skimmed off into tin vessels, and passed\nthrough flannel strainers into tubs, where it is\nleft to settle for about twenty-four hours.\nFrom these the purer upper portion of the\noil is run into a deep galvanized iron cistern,\nand again left to clarify itself by defecation\nfor a few days. It is now further refined by\ncarefully passing it through clean, stout mole-\nskin filters, under pressure. The transparent\nfiltered oil is received into a clean galvanized\niron cistern, from which, by means of a pump,\nthe casks are filled for exportation. The lat-\nter, before being filled, are seasoned and cleaned\nto prevent their imparting either flavor or\ncolor to the pure oil. By this process the\nthe natural pale color of the oil is maintained\nand its medicinal virtues preserved intact.\nTo Disguise the Taste of Cod Liver Oil.—l. Four\noz. essence of lemon, 2 6z. sulphuric ether, 1 oz.\noil of caraway, 1 oz. oil of peppermint.\n2. Many formulae for this purpose have been\ngiven, and the Boston Medical and Surgical\nJournal adds the following\nCod liver oil 7 drm.\nSpt. lavand. comp 1 drm.\nBrandy 1 drm. Mix.\nColza Oil. From the seeds of Brassica cam-\npestris (Linn.). It may be regarded as a superior\nsort of rape oil. Burns well in lamps, especial-\nly after being refined. Sp. gr. 0*9136. The\nterm colza oil is commonly applied to ordinary\nrefined rape.\nColzarine Oil. A heavy hydrocarbon oil,\nadapted for burning in lamps. Limpid, quite\ninodorous; of a pale amber color; gravity about\n0 838; temperature at which the vapor can be\npermanently ignited, 250° F. (open test). Com-\npared with vegetable colza oil, its illuminating\npower is in the proportion of 3 to 2.\nCotton Seed Oil (Oleum Gossypii Seminum).—\nPrepared from the seeds separated from the\nlint or wool of Oossypium barbadense. The\ncleaned and decorticated seeds are pressed into\ncakes, which are subjected to heat, and again\npressed so as to liberate the oil. The yield is\nfrom 12 to 20$. The specific gravity of the\ncrude oil varies from 0*928 to 0*930, and of the\nrefined oil from 0*920 to 0*923, and the congeal-\ning point from 45° F. to 32° F. The refined oil\nhas a yellowish brown color, and a somewhat\npleasant flavor. It possesses slight drying\nproperties, but is sometimes classed among\nnon-drying oils. It is used for lamps, paints and\nin soap making.\nCastor Oil.— Sun. Ricini oleum (B. P.), Oleum\ncastorei, O. ricini (Ph. L., E. and D.).— The oil\nprepared by heat or by pressure from the seed\nof Ricinus communis, Linn. (Ph. L.), the\nPalma christi, or Mexican oil bush.\nCold drawn castor oil is the best quality, and\nthe only one fit for medicinal use, except in\nveterinary practice. It is prepared by pressing\nthe shelled and crushed fruit, or seed, in\nhempen bags in hydraulic presses. The oil, as\nit escapes, is received into well tinned vessels,\nin which it is afterward mixed with water and\nheated till the water boils, and the albumen\nand gum separate as a scum. This is carefully\nremoved, and the oil, as soon as it has become\ncold, is filtered through Canton flannel and\nput into canisters. It is termed cold drawn,\nand is of a light straw color.\nCommoner kinds of oil are prepared by gently\nheating the crushed seeds and pressing them\nwhile hot. Another method sometimes adopted\nis to put the crushed seed into loose bags, to\nboil these in water, and to skim off the float-\ning oil. The oils prepared by combined roast-\ning and boiling are darker in color than when\ncold drawn; they are also more viscid and soon\nbecome rancid. They are used for lamps in\nIndian bazars.\nIn the United States a somewhat different\nmethod of extraction is adopted. The cleansed\nseeds are heated in an iron tank, with care to\navoid scorching. Pressure is then applied and\nfirst quality oil is drawn off. The pressed resi-\ndue is again heated and squeezed, the product\nbeing second quality oil. A third quality oil is\nobtained after a repetition of the heating and\npressure. Each of these three products has to\nbe further purified by heating with water, as\ndescribed above under cold drawn oil.\nOil, Croton.— From the shelled seeds of Croton\ntiglium, or molucca grains. Imported chiefly\nfrom the East Indies. It is one of the most\npowerful cathartics known, and acts when\nether swallowed or merely placed in the\nmouth. Externally it is a rubefacient and\ncounter-irritant, often causing painful pus-\ntules, like tartar emetic.\nOil of Eggs.— Made by gently heating the\nyelks of eggs until they coagulate and the\nmoisture is evaporated; then press or break\nup, digest in boiling rectified spirits, filter the\ntincture while hot, and distill off the spirits.\nBland; emollient. The common plan is to fry\nthe yelks hard, but the oil is then darker col-\nored and stronger. Formerly used to kill\nquicksilver, and still held in esteem, for sore\nnipples and excoriations.\nColorless Drying Oil for Paint.— Heat 4 gal. of\nwater to the boiling point; when about to boil\nadd 4 gal. linseed oil and f lb. of red lead.\nKeep boiling and stirring for two hours over a\nmoderate fire. Take from the fire and allow it\nto settle. The oil will be clear and colorless.\nDrying Oil.— Linseed oil boiled along with ox-\nide of lead (litharge), by which it acquires the\nproperty of drying quickly when exposed in a\nthin stratum to the air. It is much used in the\npreparation of paints and varnishes.\nResinous Drying Oil.— Take 10 lb. of drying\nnut oil, if the paint is destined for external\narticles, or 10 lb. of drying linseed oil, if for in-\nternal articles; 3 lb. of resin and 6 oz. of tur-\npentine. Cause the resin to dissolve in the oil\nby means of a gentle heat. When dissolved and\nincorporated with the oil, add the turpentine;\nleave the varnish at rest, by which means it\nwill often deposit portions of resin and other\nimpurities, and then preserve it in wide-\nmouthed bottles. It must be used fresh; when\nsuffered to grow old it abandons some of its re-\nsin. If this resinous oil assumes too much con-\nsistence, dilute it with a little essence, if in-\ntended for articles sheltered from the sun, or\nwith oil of poppies.\nCutting Essential Oils.— Triturate in a mortar\n2 oz. of the oil with 4 oz. of powdered artificial\npumice stone, and 4 oz. of powdered sugar, un-\ntil all the oil is absorbed; 16 oz. of alcohol, 95° F.\nshould then be added by degrees; stir briskly all\nthe time; filter through filtering paper. Repeat\nthe filtering until the essence is perfectly\nclear. The essence will be soluble in water.\nEssential Oils, to Distill.— Che vallier gives the\nfollowing rules for the distillation of essential\noils:\n1. Operate upon as large quantities as possi-\nble, in order to obtain a greater product, and\none of finer quality.\n2. Conduct the distillation rapidly.\n3. Divide the substances minutely, in order\nto faciliate the extrication of the oil.\n4. Employ only sufficient water to prevent\nthe matter operated on from burning, and the\nproduct from being contaminated with em-\npyreuma.\n5. For substances whose oil is heavier than\nwater, saturate, or nearly saturate, the water\nin the still with common salt, to raise the boil-\ning point, and thus to enable the vapor to carry\noyer more oil.\n6. Employ, when possible, water which has\nbeen already distilled from off the same sub-\nstances, and has thus become saturated with oil.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0364.jp2"},"361":{"fulltext":"t\nOils.\n349\nOils.\n7. For oils naturally fluid, keep the water in\nthe refrigerator cool; but for those oils which\neasily become solid, preserve it at 80° to 90° F.\nTo the above maybe added\n8. Collect the oil as soon as possible after it\nseparates from the water with which it passes\nover, and in its subsequent treatment keep it\nas much as possible from free contact with the\nair.\nDr. TJre remarks The narrower and taller\nthe alembic is, within certain limits, the great-\ner will be the proportion of oil, relative to that\nof the aromatic water, from like proportions of\naqueous and vegetable matter employed. Some\nplace the plants in baskets, and suspend these\nimmediately over the bottom of the still, under\nthe water, or above its surface in the steam;\nbat the best mode, in my opinion, is to stuff an\nupright cylinder full of the plants and drive\ndown through them steam of any desired force,\nits tension and its temperature being further\nregulated by the size of the outlet orifice lead-\ning to tne condenser. The cylinder should be\nmade of strong copper, tinned inside, and in-\ncased in the worst conducting species of wood,\nsuch as soft deal or sycamore.\nThe newly distilled oils may be separated\nfrom adhering water, which frequently renders\nthem partially opaque or cloudy, by repose at\na temperature between 60° and 70° F„ and sub-\nsequent decantation; but to render them quite\ndry (anhydrous), it is necessary to let them\nstand over some fragments of fused chloride of\ncalcium. This is not, however, required with\nthe commercial oils.\nI. Absorption or Enfleurage. The ordors of\nsome flowers, such as jessamine and mignonette,\nare too delicate to bear heat, and for these the\nprocess of absorption is employed. Sheets of\nglass in wooden frames, called chassis, are\ncoated on their upper and lower surfaces with\ngrease about a tenth of an inch in thickness.\nThe flowers are spread upon this grease, and a\nnumber of frames are superimposed on each\nother. After a day or two the flowers are care-\nfully removed, and replaced by fresh ones, and\nthis is continued for two or three months till\nthe fat is impregnated with the odors. It is\nthen removed, and extracted with alcohol.\nRecently the grease has been replaced in\nsome cases by paraffine, glycerine, or vaseline.\nII. Solvents. For this process various sol-\nvents are used, such as alcohol, ether, chloro-\nform, petroleum, bisulphide of carbon, etc.,\nand the oil is extracted by these in a percola-\ntor.\nIII. Expression. Tne essential oils of lemons\nand oranges of commerce, and of some other\nfruits, are ehiefly obtained by submitting the\nyellow rind to powerful pressure, but in this\nway they are not so white, nor do they keep so\nwell, as when distilled, although in the case of\nthe fruits referred to the oils are more frag-\nrant then when prepared by any other\nmethod.\nThis process is only adapted for substances\nwhich are very rich in essential oil.\nIV. Maceration.— Flowers with very delicate\nperfume, such as those of the bitter orange,\nviolets, etc., which would be spoiled by distilla-\ntion, are treated by this method. The medium\nused for influsion is clarified beef or mutton\nsuet, or lard. The fat is melted, the flowers\nimmersed, and the mixture stirred occasionally\nfor a day or so. The exhausted flowers are re-\nmoved and fresh ones introduced, and such\nrenewals are continued till it is judged that the\nfat is sufficiently charged with the oil.\nV. Rectification. This is commonly perform-\ned without water, by the careful application of\na heat just sufficient to make the oils flow over\npretty rapidly, so that they may be kept heated\nfor as short a time as possible. One half, or at\nmost two thirds only, is drawn off, that left in\nthe retort being usually mixed with raw oil\nintended to be sold in that state. This method\noften leads to much loss and disappointment,\nand more than one rather dangerous explosion\nhas been known to result from its use. A bet-\nter plan is to rectify the oil from strong brine,\nand then to separate any adhering water,\neither by repose or chloride of calcium.\nVolatile oils should be preserved in well closed\nand nearly full bottles, in the shade, and should\nbe opened as seldom as possible. By age they\ndarken, lose much of their odor, increase in\ndensity, and become thick and clammy. It is\nthen necessary to distill them, by which the\nundecomposed portion is separated from the\nresin. Agitation along with animal charcoal\nwill restore their clearness and original color,\nbut nothing more.\nFusel Oil.— Grain oil, marc brandy oil, potato\noil obtained in the manufacture of alcohol\nfrom grain, or potatoes, and especially observa-\nble in them marc brandy of the South of France.\nIt is a mixture of various alcohols, of which\nthe most prominent is amy lie alcohol (C 5 H 12 0).\nIf the portion which distills between 260° and\n280° F. is collected apart and redistilled, an oil\nis obtained having a fixed boiling point of 268°-\n269° F. Thus purified, it is a thin, mobile liquid,\nwith a suffocating odor and burning taste.\nWhen warmed, and dropped upon platinum\nblack, it oxidizes to valeric acid, which bears\nthe same relation to amylic alcohol that acetic\nacid does to ordinary alcohol.\nOil Hair. See Hair.\nLard Oil. Lard is the fat of the pig melted\nby a gentle heat, and strained through flannel\nor a hair sieve. Good lard is white, and con-\ntains no water or other foreign matter, with\nthe exception of a little salt, when not intended\nfor medical purposes.\nLard oil is obtained when lard is subjected to\ngreat pressure in the cold. It consists chiefly\nof olein. It is said to be superior to olive oil\nfor greasing wool, and, from its low price, is\nlargely employed.\nOil of Lemon. To Restore the Fragrance of\nOil of Lemon.— There are several oils that by\nabsorption of oxygen from the air will become\ncamphorated, grow turbid, deposit a residue\ngenerally called stearopton, and lose more or\nless of their flavor,instead of which they acquire\nthe odor of turpentine. Those oils that are free\nfrom oxygen are chiefly subject to these\nchanges, and it is therefore necessary to keep\nthem in full bottles, well stoppered and in a\ncool place. When they have deteriorated in\nthe way indicated they may be improved, but\ncan never be restored to their original quality.\nMany means have been proposed for this pur-\npose, but the one now generally employed is to\nshake the oil with warm water several times,\nletting it settle and drawing it off by means of\na siphon. It may lastly be filtered through\npaper or linen.\nTo Keep Oil of Lemon Fragrant.— To every\npound of oil one ounce of alcohol is to be added,\nand well mixed; then one ounce of water is put\nwith it, which again withdraws the alcohol\nfrom the oil, and collects at the bottom of the\nbottle as dilute alcohol, where it should be per-\nmitted to remain until the oil has been used,\nwith perhaps an occasional shake up when the\nbottle has been opened. Oil of lemon treated\nin this manner has been kept fresh and fra-\ngrant for over a year. Oil of orange may be\ntreated in the same manner with excellent\neffect.\nOil of Lemon. To Restore the Fragrance of.\n—Put warm water with the oil and shake it\nwell, then after it is settled draw it off, using a\nsiphon, and filter it by means of a paper or\nlinen.\nOil, Linseed.— A drying oil obtained by ex-\npressing the seeds of common flax, which yield\nfrom 20 to 25% of their weight. The drying\nquality of the oil is increased by boiling for\nthree to six hours, and then stirring in sever\nor eignt-hundredths of its weight of litharge.\nLinseed Oil.— Oleum Lini.— Commercially, this","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0365.jp2"},"362":{"fulltext":"Oils.\n350\nOils.\noil is obtained from the seeds of Linum usitatis-\nsimum, as imported from Russia and India,\nwhich contain various properties of different\ncruciferous weed seeds. The oil has usually,\ntherefore, an acrid taste derived from the pres-\nence of these impurities. There are three kinds\nof the oil, according to the method of prepara-\ntion:\n1. Cold Drawn.— Oleum Lini sine Igne.— The\nseeds are bruised or crushed, ground and ex-\npressed without heat. This is considered the\nbest oil. It is pale, tasteless if pure, viscous,\nbut does not keep as well as the next. By this\nprocess the seeds yield only from 17$ to 22$ of\noil.\n2. Ordinary Linseed Oil.— Prepared as the last,\nbut with a steam heat of 200° F. It is amber\ncolored or dark yellow, and is less viscous than\nthe last. It solidifies about 2° to 4° F. It is sol-\nuble in 5 parts of boiling and 40 parts of cold al-\ncohol. Produce 22$ to 28$. Both these are drying\nand cathartic, and are extensively used in\npaints, printing inks, varnishes, etc.; in specific\ngravity they vary from 0*930 to 0*935.\n3. Boiled Linseed Oil.— The resinifying or dry-\ning property of oils is greatly increased by\nboiling them, either alone, or along with some\nlitharge, sugar of lead, or white vitriol, when\nthe product forms the boiled oil, or drying\noil (oleum desiccativum) of commerce. The\nefficacy of the process depends on the elimina-\ntion of substances which impede the oxidation\nof the oil. The following formulae are adopted\nfor this purpose\na. Linseed oil, 1 gal.; powdered litharge,\nlb.; simmer with frequent stirring until a pelli-\ncle begins to form remove the scum, and when\nit has become cold, and has settled, decant the\nclear portion. Dark colored used by house\npainters.\nh. Linseed oil and water, of each 1 qt.; white\nvitriol in powder, 2 oz.;boil to dryness. Paler\nthan the last.\nc. Pale linseed or nut oil, 1 pt.; litharge or\ndry sulphate of lead, in fine powder, 2 oz.; mix,\nagitate frequently for ten days, then set the\nbottle in the sun or a warm place to settle, and\ndecant the clear portion.\nd. Linseed oil, 100 gal.; calcined white vitriol\n(sulphate of zinc), in fine powder, 7 lb.; mix in\na clean copper boiler, heat the whole to 285° F.\nand keep it at that temperature, with constant\nstirring, for at least one hour, then allow it to\ncool; in twenty-four hours decant the clear\nportion, and in three or four weeks more rack\nit for use. Used for varnishes.\ne. Liebig.— Sugar of lead, 1 lb., is dissolved in\nrain water, y% gal.; litharge in fine powder, 1 lb.,\nis then added, and the mixture is gently sim-\nmered until only a whitish sediment remains\nlevigated litharge, lib., is next diffused through\nlinseed oil, 2% gal., and the mixture is gradu-\naDy added to the lead solution, previously di-\nluted with an equal bulk of water; the whole is\nnow stirred together for some hours, with heat,\nand is lastly left to clear itself by exposure in\na warm place. The lead solution, which sub-\nsides from the oil, may be used again for the\nsame purpose, by dissolving it in another pound\nof litharge as before.\nWilks.— Into linseed oil, 236 gal., pour sul-\nphuric acid, 6 or 7 lb., and stir the two together\nfor three hours then add a mixture of fuller s\nearth, 6 lb., and hot lime, 14 lb., and again stir\nfor three hours next put the whole into a cop-\nper, with an equal quantity of water, and boil\nfor about three hours; lastly withdraw the fire,\nand when the whole is cold, draw off the water,\nrun the oil into any suitable vessel, and let it\nstand for a few weeks before using it. (Pat-\nent.)\nThere is often a difficulty in obtaining the\noils bright, after boiling or heating them\nwith the lead solution. The best way, on a\nsmall scale, is either to filter them through\ncoarse woolen filtering paper or to expose the\nbottle for some time in the sun, or in a warm\nplace. In a large scale, the finer oils are often\nfiltered through Canton flannel bags, sp. gr.,\nfrom 0*940 to 0*950.\nMenhaden Straits or Bank Oil is produced by\nsubjecting to heat the Alosa menhaden, a kind\nof herring. After purification by boiling, filtra-\ntion and pressure, it is available for soap making\nand tanning. It is sometimes used as a substi-\ntute for cod liver oil, and sometimes mixed\nwith linseed oil for painters use.\nMafurra Oil.— A kind of grease or fat, nearly\napproaching palm oil. It is extracted by means\nof hot water from the so-called Mafurra or\nMafutra almonds. 65$ of oil can be obtained\nfrom the husked seeds.\nMusk Oil.— Grain musk, 1 drm.; ambergris,\ndrm.; oil of lavender, 20 drops; oil, 1 pt.; by\ninfusion. A second quality is made by work-\ning the same ingredients, after the oil poured\nfrom them, with pt. fresh oil.\nMusk and Ambergris Oil.— Huile Royal. Am-\nbergris, 2 drm.; grand musk, }4 drm.; oils of\ncassia, lavender, neroli and nutmeg of each 10\ndrops; oil, 1 pt. by infusion.\nNeatsfoot Oil.— This obtained from neat s\nfeet (ox or cow heels) and tripe (prefera-\nbly the first), by boiling them in water and\nskimming off the oil. For nice purposes the\noil is so obtained is kept gently heated by\nmeans of warm water until the whole of the\nwater has subsided from it, when the clear por-\ntion is poui-ed off and if necessary filtered. It\nis extremely emollient and does not thicken by\nage. The pure oil is highly esteemed for chaps,\nexcoriations, etc., and, when scented, to make\nthe hair grow; the ordinary oil is chiefly used\nto fry fritters and to soften leather.\nOlive Oil.— Salad oil, sweet oil, olivae oleum.\nThe oil expressed from the fruit of Olea Eu-\nropasa, or common olive.\n1. Virgin Oil.— O.o virgineum, Huile vierge.\nFrom olives carefully garbled, either sponta-\nneously or only by slight pressure in the cold.\nThat yielded by the pericarp of the fruit is the\nfinest.\n2. Ordinary Fine Oil.— This is obtained by\neither pressing* the olives, previously crushed\nand mixed with boiling water, or by pressing\nat a gentle heat, the olives from which the\nvirgin oil has been obtained. The above pro-\ncesses furnish the finer salad oils of commerce.\nThe cake which is left is called grignon.\n3. Second Quality.— By allowing the bruised\nfruit to ferment before pressing it. Yellow,\ndarker than the preceding, but mild and\nsweet tasting. Much used for the the table.\n4. Gorgon.— By fermenting and boiling the\npressed cake or marc in water and skimming off\nthe oil. Inferior.\n5. Oil of the Infernal Regions.— Oleum om-\nphacinum. This is a very inferior quality of oil,\nwhich is skimmed off tte w r ater in the reservors\ninto which the waste water which has been\nused in the above operations is received and\nallowed to settle. The last two are chiefly used\nfor lamps and in soap making. Provence oil\nis the most esteemed. Florence oil and Lucca\noil are of very fine quality. Genoa oil comes\nnext, then Gallipoli oil; Sicily oil is inferior;\nSpanish oil is the worst imported.\nMixtures of olive oil with small amounts of\ncotton seed and sesame oils are distinguished\nby the entire mass, though at first more darkly\ncolored and solidifying hke pure olive oil,\nyielding, after from twenty-four to thirty-six\nhours, a brown oil upon the surface of the\nfirmly solidified mass, while the lower layer\nshows the yellow color of the pure olive oil.\nOils which have been treated with alkalies\nshow the same reactions as the pure oils.—\nOlive Oil, to Test.— Bach s method of testing\nolive oil.\na. Nitric Acid Test.— 5 c.c. of the sample are\nshaken in a convenient tube with 5 c.c. of nitric\nacid of sp. gr. 1*30 for one minute, and the re-","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0366.jp2"},"363":{"fulltext":"Oils.\n351\nOils.\nsuiting color observed (a), after one minute,\nand (b.) after standing- five minutes in boiling\nwater, and (c) the consistence noted after stand-\ning for twelve to eighteen hours at about 60°\nF. (15-5° C).\nployed on account of its costliness, the defici-\nency being made up by a mixture of the oils of\nrhodium, rosemary and bergamot. Most of the\noils of this class are intended for hair cosmetics.\n2. (By infusion.) Dry substances, after being\nColor.\nConsistence.\nOne minute.\nFive minutes.\nPure olive oil.\nCotton seed oil.\nSesame oil.\nSunflower oil.\nGround nut oil.\nRape-seed oil.\nRicinus oil.\nPale green.\nYellowish brown.\nWhite.\nDirty white.\nPale rose.\nPale rose.\nPale rose.\nOrange yellow.\nReddish brown.\nBrownish yellow.\nReddish yellow.\nBrownish yellow.\nOrange yellow.\nGolden yellow.\nQuite solid.\nSalve-like or smeary*\nPerfectly liquid.\nQuite solid.\nQuite solid.\nSalve-like or smeary.\nPalm Oil. Palm Butter, Oleum Palmse.—\nThis oil is obtained from the fruit of several\nspecies of palm, chiefly of Elceis guineensis.\nThe nuts or fruit after separation from the\nspadices containing them are allowed to decom-\npose to a certain extent in the open air. By\npounding with wooden pestles the pulp is de-\ntached from the hard nuts, mixed with a little\nwater and heated. The oil is then forced out\nby pressure. This process does not free the oil\nfrom all fragments of pulp, and hence it has a\ngreat tendency to become rancid and acid.\nFresh palm oil has an orange yellow tint, a\nsweetish taste and an odor somewhat resem-\nbling that of violets or orris root. It is of the\nconsistence of butter or lard.\nPaper Oil.— Rag Oil, Pyrothonidge, Oleum\nChartae. On the small scale by burning paper\non a cold tin plate and collecting the oil; on the\nlarge scale by the destructive distillation of\npaper or linen rags. For baldness, toothache,\nearache, etc.\nPerfumery Oils.—Syn. Scented Oils, Olea Fixa\nOdorata, L.— The oils which usually form the\nbasis of these articles are those of almonds, ben\nor olives; but others are occasionally used.\nThe methods adopted for their prepara-\ntion vary with the nature of the substances\nwhose fragrance it is intended to convey to the\noil. The Continental perfumers employ three\ndifferent processes for this purpose, which they\ntechnically distinguish by terms indicative of\ntheir nature. These are as under\n1. A sufficient quantity of the essential oil of\nthe plant, or of the concentrated essence of the\nsubstance, if it does not furnish an oil, is added\nto the fixed oil which it is desired to perfume\nuntil the latter becomes agreeably fragrant;\nthe whole is then allowed to repose for a few\ndays, and if any sediment falls (which should\nnot be the case when the ingredients are pure),\nthe clear portion is decanted into another bot-\ntle. When alcoholic essences are thus employed\nthe fixed oil should be gently warmed and the\nadmixture made in a strong bottle, so as to per-\nmit of it being corked and well agitated with\nsafety; and in this case the agitation should be\nprolonged until the whole has become quite\ncold. In this way all the ordinary aromatized\nand perfumed oils of the English druggists and\nperfumers, as those of bergamot, cassia, cloves,\nlavender, lemon, millefleurs, neroli, nutmeg,\noranges, roses, etc., are made, but those of a\nfew of the more delicate flowers, and of cer-\ntain other substances, can only be prepared of\nthe first quality by one or other of the processes\ndescribed below.\nIn general! to V/z dr. of the pure essential\noil or 3 to 4 dr. of the alcoholic essences are\nfound sufficient to render 1 pt. of oil agreeably\nfragrant. Half dr. of pure otto of roses is,\nhowever, enough for this purpose, owing to the\nvery powerful character of its perfume; but\neven a less quantity than this is commonly em-\n—American Journal of Pharmacy.\nreduced to powder or sliced very small— flowers\nor petals, after- being carefully selected and\npicked from the stems and other scentless\nportions and soft or unctuous matters, as\nambergris, civet or musk, after being rubbed\nto a paste with a little oil, either with or with-\nout the addition of about twice their weight of\nclean sand or powdered glass, to facilitate the\nreduction, are digested in the fixed oil for about\none hour, at a gentle heat obtained by means\nof a water bath, continual stirring being em-\nployed all the time; the mixture is then re-\nmoved from the heat, covered up and left to\nsettle until the next day, when the clear por-\ntion is decanted into clean bottles. When\nflowers are employed, the free oil is drained off\nand the remainder obtained by the action of a\npress. The process is then repeated with fresh\nflowers five or six times or even of tener until\nthe oil is sufficiently perfumed. For ambergris,\nmusk or civet the digestion is generally con-\ntinued for fifteen to twenty days, during which,\ntime the vessel is either freely exposed to the\nsunshine or kept in an equally warm situation.\nThe first quality of the oils of ambergris, bal-\nsam of Peru, benzoin, cassia, cinnamon, civet,\norange flowers, orris, roses, styrax and vanilla\nare made by infusion.\n3. (By the flowers.)— a. Upon an iron frame\na piece of white, spongy cotton cloth is stretch-\ned and then moistened with almond or olive\noil, usually the latter; on the cloth is placed a\nthin layer of the fresh plucked flowers; another\nframe is similarly treated, and in this way a\npile of them is made. In twenty-four or\nthirty hours the flowers are replaced by fresh\nones, and this is repeated every day or every\nother day until seven or eight different lots of\nflowers have been consumed, or the oil is suffi-\nciently loaded with their odor. The oil is then\nobtained from the cotton cloth by powerful\npressure and is placed aside in bottles to settle,\nready to be decanted into others for sale.\nSometimes thin layers of cotton wool, slightly\nmoistened with oil, are employed instead of\ncotton cloth.\nThe oils of all the more delicate flowers, such\nas those of honeysuckle, jasmin or jessamine,\njonquil, may blossom, myrtle blosson, narcis-\nsus and violet are generally prepared in the\nabove manner.\nb. The native perfumers of India prepare their\nscented oils of bela, chumbul, jasmin, etc., in\nthe following manner A layer of the scented\nflowers about 4 in. thick and 2 ft. square is\nformed on the ground, over this is placed a\nlayer of moistened tel or sesamum seeds 2 in.\nthick, and on this another 4 in. layer of flowers.\nOver the whole a sheet is thrown which is kept\npressed down by weights attached round the\nedges. The flowers are replaced with fresh ones\nafter the lapse of twenty-four hours and the\nprocess is repeated a third and even a fourth\ntime when a very highly scented oil is desired..","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0367.jp2"},"364":{"fulltext":"Oils.\n352\nOils.\nThe swollen sesamum seeds, rendered fragrant\nby contact with the flowers, are then submit-\nted to the action of the press, by Avhich their\nbland oil is obtained strongly impregnated with\nthe aroma of the flowers. The expressed oil is\nthen set aside in dubbers (bottles made of un-\ntanned hides) to settle. We have employed\npoppy seed in this country in a similar manner\nwith great success.\nc. The flowers are crushed in a mortar or\nmill with one half their weight of blanched\nsweet almonds, and the next day the massis\ngently heated and submitted to the action of a\npowerful press; the liquid thus obtained is al-\nlowed to repose for a week, when the upper\nportion of oil is decanted and filtered. This\nplan is occasionally adopted in this country for\nthe oils of roses and of a few other flowers.\nThe solution of a few grains of benzoic acid\nor of gum benzoin (preferably the first) in any\nof the above oils will materially retard the ac-\ncession of rancidity, if it does not prevent it\naltogetner.\nThe oils of the last two classes (2 and 3) are\nchiefly used to impart their respective odors to\nthe simple oils, pomades, etc.; and in the man-\nufacture of scented spirits or esprits.\nPetroleum.— Various suggestions have been\nmade to account for the occurrence of native\nnaphthas. It is most generally believed that the\nchief cause is the decomposition, at great\ndepths beneath the earth s surface, of vegetable\nand animal remains, but it is by no means\nknown with any certainty how this decompo-\nsition has been brought about, whether it is\nstill going on, or whether the process has long\nceased to be in active operation. Mendelejeff\nsupposes, that as a consequence of the conden-\nsation of the earth s substance from vapors,\nthe interior must consist of metals, chiefly iron,\nin combination with carbon, and that water,\nacting on these carbides at high temperatures\nand pressures, produced metallic oxides and\nhydrocarbons, which latter, rising in a state of\nvapor, become condensed in the superincum-\nbent strata, especially in porous sandstones.\nMost probably, however, more than one cause\nhas been at work, and possibly the American\ndeposits occuring in Palaeozoic strata may be\ndue to causes differing from those which have\noriginated the Russian petroleum occurring in\nTertiary formations.\nPetroleum can rarely be procured without\nboring wells, from which it is obtained by\npumping, or, in some cases, by means of buckets\nand windlass. In America the boring is very\nrapidly accomplished. Prof. Dewar states that\nwells of 1,500 to 2,00f) ft. in depth are pierced in\nfrom about one to two months.\nThe oil is largely conveyed from the neigh-\nborhood of the wells by pipes, and these pipe\nlines have, since 1865, become a great feature of\nthe American oil industry. The oil from many\nthousand wells is passed through these pipes,\nthe aggregate length being several thousand\nmiles, worked by various companies.— Revue\nScientiflque.\nPiney Oil.— Piney Tallow, P. Dammar, P.\nResin. To prepare this oil the seeds of Vateria\nindica, or piney tree, are roasted, then ground,\nand boiled with water. The oil is skimmed off.\nWhen cold it is a solid fat, which melts at about\n95° to 97° F. Its specific gravity is about 0*926.\nIts color is white, and it has a somewhat fra-\ngrant odor. It is made into candles.\nPojypy Seed Oil. Syn. Oleum papaveris.—\nObtained from the seeds of Papaver somni-\nferum, the opium poppy; Glaucium luteum, the\nyellow horn poppy, and Argemone mexicana,\nthe spiny poppy, by pressure. It is of a pale\ncolor and sligntly sweet taste. It dries and\nkeeps well, and has a specific gravity of 0*913-\n0*924. It is used for salads, paints and soaps,\nand also extensively to adulterate almond oil.\nIt does not freeze till cooled to 0° F. The yield\nof the seeds is from 32 to 48$.\nPrinting Oil for Pottery.— -1. One qt. linseed\noil, 1 pt. rape oil, 2 oz. balsam capivi, 1 oz. pitcn\nYi oz. amber oil, Y oz. white lead.\n2. One qt. linseed oil, J4 Pt. rape oil, Y* pt.\ncommon tar, 1 oz. balsam sulphur, 1 oz. balsam\ncapivi. The linseed oil should be boiled for\nsome time alone, then add the rape oil and the\nbalsam capivi, allow the boiling to be continued\nuntil it begins to approach the proper consist-\nency, and add the remaining ingredients. The\nmixture should be allowed to cool a short time,\nafter which the whole mass may be boiled\nslowly until it has assumed the proper thick-\nness; the vessel must be generally covered dur-\ning the process, and the sulphur, previously to\nbeing mixed with the oil, should be perfectly\npulverized, as by that means it is less liable to\ncurdle the oil.\nRape Seed Oil. See Colza Oil above.\nTo Prevent Fats and Oils from Becoming Ran-\ncid.— Take 2 drm. powdered slippery elm bark\nto 2 lb. of the fat. Heat together for a few\nminutes. The bark shrinks and subsides, after\nwhich the fat is poured off. It gives an odor\nto the fat like that of a hickory nut.\nRed Oil.— One pt. linseed oil, Y± lb. alkanet\nroot. If mahogany be allowed to stand all\nnight wiped over with this previous filling in,\nit will impart a deep rich color, also useful for\nwalnut and rosewood.\nRefining Oils. 1. Mr. Bancroft refines oils for\nmachinery and lubricating purposes generally\nby agitating them with a lye of caustic soda\nof the sp. gr. 1*2. A sufficient quantity is\nknown to have been added when, after re-\npose, a portion begins to settle down clear at\nthe bottom. About four to eight per cent, is\ncommonly required for lard oil and olive oil.\nAfter twenty-four hours repose the clear\nsupernatant oil is decanted from the soapy\nsediment, and filtered.\n2. Fish Oil (Whale, Seal, etc.) is purified by\na. Violently agitating it with boiling water\nor steam, by placing it in a deep vessel with\nperforated bottom, through which high pres-\nsure steam is forced for some time it is after-\nward clarified by repose, and filtered through\ncoarse charcoal.\nh. The oil is violently agitated with a boiling\nhot and strong solution of oak bark, to remove\nalbumen and gelatine, and next with high\npressure steam and hot water it is lastly dried\nand filtered.\nc. Each ton is boiled for half an hour with\ncaustic soda, Yz lb- previously made into a\nweak lye with water; or steam is blown\nthrough the mixture for a like period sul-\nphuric acid, Yz lb., diluted with six times its\nweight of water, is next added; the whole\nagain boiled for fifteen minutes and allowed to\nsettle for an hour or longer, when the clear\noil is run off from the water and sediment into\nthe bleaching tubs; here solution of bichro-\nmate of potash, 4 lb., in oil of vitriol, 2 lb., pre-\nviously diluted with water, q. s., together with\na little nitric acid and some oxalic acid, are\nadded, and after thorough admixture of the\nwhole, by blowing steam through it, strong\nnitric acid, 1 lb., diluted with water, 1 qt., is\npoured in, and the boiling continued for half\nan hour longer a small quantity of naphtha\nor rectified spirit of turpentine is then mixed\nin, and the oil is finally well washed with hot\nwater and left to settle.\n3. For Palm Oil.— The oil is melted by the\nheat of steam, and after it has settled and\ncooled down to about 130° F., is carefully de-\ncanted from the water and sediment into the\nsteaming tubs here a mixture of a saturated\nsolution of bichromate of potash, 25 lb., and\nsulphuric acid, 8 or 9 lb., is added, and after\nthorough admixture, hydrochloric acid, 50 lb.,\nis poured in; the whole is then constantly\nstirred until it acquires a uniform greenish\ncolor, or is sufficiently decolored, a little more\nof the bleaching materials being added if the\nlatter is not the case, after which it is allowed to\nrepose for half an hour to settle it is next run","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0368.jp2"},"365":{"fulltext":"Oils.\n353\nOils.\ninto a wooden vat, where it is washed, etc., as\nbefore.\n4. Almond, castor, linseed, nut, olive, rape,\nand some other vegetable oils are readily\nbleached by either of the following processes\nExposure in glass bottles to the sun s rays on\nthe leads or roofs of houses, or in any other\nsuitable position, open to the southeast and\nsouth. This is the method employed by drug-\ngists and oilmen to whiten their castor and lin-\nseed oils. Fourteen to twenty-one days expo-\nsure to the sun in clear weather during sum-\nmer is usually sufficient for castor oil when\ncontained in 2 to 4 qt. pale green glass bottles\n(preferably the former), and covered with\nwhite gallipots inverted over them. The oil is\nfiltered before exposing it to the light, as, if\nonly in a slight degree opaque, it does not\nbleach well. Almond and olive oil are, when\nthus treated, apt to acquire a slight sulphur-\nous smell but this may be removed by filtra-\ntion through a little animal charcoal, or still\nbetter, by washing the oil with hot water.\nRestoration of Besinified Volatile Oils.— When\noils have become resinified, they may be re-\nstored by rectification. This is accomplished\nby mixing the volatile oil with half of its own\nweight of an inodorous fat, and distilling the\nmixture from a 3% solution of table salt. If\nthe quantity of resinified oil is too small to be\ndistilled, it may be treated as follows Agitate\nthe oil for about 15 or 20 minutes with a magma\nformed by mixing a solution of borax with\nanimal charcoal, when the resinified portion\nwill unite with the borax, leaving the oh limpid\nand the odor restored.\nRosin Oil.— 100 lb. of dry, thick rosin oil are\nheated until thin; the fire is then removed and\n2 lb. fuming sulphuric acid (Nordhausen) are\ngradually added, with constant stirring. After\nmixing for half an hour allow it to stand for\ntwelve hours; then siphon off and wash with\nhot water until the water shows no acid reac-\ntion. After several days separation, a dark\nyellow, faintly odorous rosin oil is obtained\nwithout blue reflection. This oil mixed with\nother oils may be used advantageously for lu-\nbricating the heavy parts of machinery.\nSeal Oil.— This oil is chiefly prepared from the\nblubber of the hooded seal (Phoca cristata), and\nof the harp seal (Phoca Greenlandica), but also\nfrom several other species of seal. Pale seal\noil is that which drains from the blubber be-\nfore putrefaction commences, and forms about\n60$ of the whole quantity of oil obtained. It\nis very clear, odorless, and when recently pre-\npared not unpleasant to the taste.\nRefined seal oil is the last washed and filtered.\nIt ranks close after sperm oil.\nBrown or dark seal oil is that which subse-\nquently drains from the putrid mass. It is very\nstrong scented and nauseous, and smokes in\nburning. A full grown seal yields from 8 to 12\ngal. of oil, a small one 4 to 5 gal.\nRock Oil.— Name sometimes given to petro-\nleum.\nRosin Oil.— A product of the dry distillation\nO^ resin.\nShark or Shark Liver Oil.— Prepared from the\nliver of various species of shark. One liver\nyields from 15 to 60 gal. of oil. It is the lightest\nof the fixed oils,its specific gravity ranging from\n0 865 to 0*876. Besides being employed in the\nadulteration of cod fiver oil, it is largely used\nin tanneries.\nSheldrake s Oil, for Grinding Colors.— Pale\nold boiled oil, copal varnish, equal parts. Mix.\nThis will remain good for a long time if kept\nin well corked bottles.\nSperm Oil.— This oil is procured from the\nhead matter of the sperm whale or cachalot\n(Physetermacrosephalus), a species once common\nin all the principal seas, but now chiefly con-\nfined to the Southern oceans. It is a very lim-\npid oil, comparatively free from smell, and\nburns well. It has long been reputed the best\noil for lamps and machinery, as it does not\nthicken by age or friction. Its specific gravity\nis 0 875. Refined seal is a common adulter-\nant. The solid portion is refined for candle\nmaking.\nSpike Oil, (Farrier s).— Oil of turpentine, 1 qt.;\nBarbadoes tar, 1^ oz.; alkanet root, J^ oz.; di-\ngested together for a week. Used as a stimu-\nlating liniment by farriers.\n1. Painter s. —Rectified oil of turpentine, 3pt\noil of lavender 1 pt. Mix.\n2. Oil of turpentine, warm, 5 parts; lavende\noil bottoms, genuine, 3 parts; agitate well to\ngether and in two weeks decant the clear away.\nUsed by artists and enamelers.\nStyrax Oil.— Liquid styrax, pure, 5 drm.; oil of\nnutmeg, 10 drops; ambergris, 6grn=; oil, lpt.; by\ninfusion.\nTallow Oil.— Tallow is the name given to the\nfat separated from the membranes inclosing it\nin the suet or solid fat as obtained from oxen,\nsheep and other ruminants. This oil corre-\nsponds to tallow as lard oil to lard, and is ob-\ntained from tallow by pressure. The tallow is\nfirst melted, and the clear portion is drawn off,\nafter the subsidence of impurities, into tubs\nfitted with perforated diaphragms covered with\ncoarse flannel. As cooling proceeds, olein sepa-\nrates from the solid portions of the fat, the\nliquid oil is run off, pressure applied, and more\noil obtained. It is very useful in the manufac-\nture of the finer kinds of soap.\nOil of Turpentine.— Spirit of T., essence of T.,\nTurps, Camphene, Camphine, Terebinthinas\nOleum, Spiritus Terebinthinge, Essentia T.,\nOleum Terebinthinae, O. T. Purificatum.\nThe oil of turpentine of commerce is ob-\ntained by distilling strained American turpen-\ntine along with water. The residuum in the\nstill is resin or rosin. The product in oil varies\nfrom 14$ to 16$. It may be rectified by redistill-\ning it along with 3 or 4 times its volume of\nwater, observing not to draw over quite all of\nit. The portion remaining in the retort, bal\nsam of turpentine, is viscid and resinous. A\nbetter plan is to well agitate it with an equal\nmeasure of solution of potassa or milk of lime\nbefore rectifying it. This is the plan adopted\nfor the camphine used for lamps. By agitating\ncrude oil of turpentine with about 5° of sul-\nphuric acid, diluted with twice its weight of\nwater, and after repose and decantation, recti-\nfying it with five or six times its volume of the\nstrongest lime water, a very pure and nearly\nscentless oil may be obtained. Pure oil of tur-\npentine is colorless, limpid, very mobile, neu-\ntral to test paper, has an odor neither powerful\nnor disagreeable when recently prepared, but\nbecoming so by exposure to the air. Hot strong\nalcohol dissolves it freely, but the greater part\nseparates in globules as the liquor cools. It\ncongeals at 14° and boils at 312° F. It is exten-\nsively used in the manufacture of varnishes\nand paints. To prevent accident it is proper to\ncaution the operator of the extremely pene-\ntrating and inflammable nature of the vapor of\nthis oil, even in the cold. During the process\nof distillation, without the greatest precautions\nare taken, an explosion is almost inevitable.\nVanilla Oil.— Huile la Vanille.— Purest olive\nor almond oil, V pt.; vanilla, finest in powder,\n2 oz.; oil of bergamot, 1 drm. otto of roses,\nfinest, 15 drops; by infusion.\nOil, Watchmaker s.— Prepared by placing a\nclean strip or coil of lead in a small white glass\nbottle filled with pure almond or olive oil, and\nexposing it to the sun s rays at a window for\nsome time, till a curdy matter ceases to be de-\nposited and the oil has become quite limpid and\ncolorless. Used for fine work; does not become\nthick by age.\nOil, Whale, Train Oil, Whale Train Oil, Oleum\nBaleenee, Oleum Ceti.— From the blubber of\nthe Balcena mysticetus, Linn, or the common or\nGreenland whale, by heat. Coarse with bad odor.\nSouthern whale oil is the best. Used for lamps,\nmachinery, etc. Product per fish about 13^ ton?\nfor each foot of bone.","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0369.jp2"},"366":{"fulltext":"Oilskins.\n354\nOintments.\nWhite Oils. -I. White Egg Oils. -Yelks of 4\neggs; oil of turpentine, 34 P,t.; mix, add of am-\nmonia liquor, 3 oz.; oil of origanum, Yl oz.;\nsoaper s lye, pt.; water, %pt.; agitate well\nand strain through a coarse hair sieve.\n2. Rape oil, pt.; liquor of ammonia and oil\nof turpentine, of each, 3 oz.; agitate until they\nform a milk.\n3. Redwood.— Whites and yelks of 2 eggs;\noil of turpentine, 1Y oz.; triturate together;\nadd of Goulard s extract, Y oz.; mix next\nadd of distilled vinegar, V/% pt.; and lastly of\nrectified spirit, V/% oz. Stimulant and deter-\ngent. Used by farriers.\nOilskins. See Waterproofing.\nOilstones.— Oilstones, to Face.— Take a piece\not iron with even or straight face (it ought to\nbe planed); scatter a little emery or fine sand\nabout as coarse as No. \\Y sand paper on the\niron plate, add a little water and rub the face\nof the stone, renewing the emery or sand and\nwater as requisite, finishing with an addition\nof water without emery or sand. This is the\nquickest and truest way, making the stone per-\nfectly straight, and occupying from five to ten\nminutes time.\nOilstones, to Renew. Try turpentine to\nclean with. The reason of oilstones becom-\ning hard is that the pores fill up by the oil\nbecoming viscid or gummy and mixed with\nthe particles of steel rubbed off in the process\nof sharpening, thus preventing the tool from\ntouching the stone, by causing it to ride upon\nthe surface of a substance as hard as itself.\nThere is a secret, known only to a limited num-\nber, that oil mixed with a small portion of tur-\npentine makes a stone cut freely; and here let\nme remark that no oil that is of a vegetable\ncharacter, such as sweet oil, is fit for a stone\npetroleum is little better. The very best that\ncan be used is neatsf oot oil, which may become\nthick and pasty, but is always reliable so are\nall of the animal or fish oils. That which is ob-\ntained from poultry is good some prefer goose\noil to use on a stone for razors, and some me-\nchanics in Philadelphia substitute soap suds for\nthe purpose.\nOilstones, to True.— For truing an ordinary\noilstone for sharpening planes, take a sheet of\nglass paper No. 2, and place it on the bench.\nRub the stone over it. In this way the stone\ncan be trued in one quarter the time required\nby the ordinary process.\nOintments.- Ointment of Benzoin.— Though\nbenzoin is introduced into lard to keep it, and\nthis is not needed with vaseline, an ointment\nmade as follows (similar to TJ. S. P.) yields a\npreparation that preserves the odor of the\nresin without dissolving the same, and has\nwhen finished an elegant quinescent appear-\nance. As an addition to a lard ointment this\nwould be good, probably preventing rancidity\nwithout introducing the irritating effect of\nthe resin.\nTincture of benzoin 2 fl. oz.\nVaseline 16 oz.\nMelt the vaseline on a water bath, add the\ntincture, stir till all alcohol is dissolved and\npour off the liquid from the precipitated resin\nwhich adheres to the sides and bottom of the\nvessel.\nIt would be needless to remark that, on ac-\ncount of the difficulty of solubility of resins\nin vaseline, ointment of mezereon cannot be\nmade readily with it.\nOintment of Borax.—\n1. Borax in very fine powder. .1 drm.\nSpermaceti ointment 1 oz.\nMix by trituration. In excoriations, chaps,\netc. It also forms an excellent lip salve. A\ndrop of neroli, or Y drop of otto of roses, x^en-\nders it more agreeable.\n2. To the last add, of—\nGlycerine 1 drm.\nUsing a slightly warmed mortar for the mix-\nture. Very effective.\nCitrine ointment cannot be prepared with vas-\neline alone, as the water in the nitrate of mer-\ncury solution is repelled by the oil. The vase-\nline becomes decomposed at 400° F., giving rise\nto brisk effervesence of nitrous fumes, turning-\nred in color. This color cannot be washed out\nwith water, showing that it is not due to an\nabsorption of the red fumes, but rather to\nsome change produced. A writer in The Drug-\ngists Circular suggests the addition of of\nvaseline in place of the same quantity of lard,\nadding it after the decomposition has taken\nplace, as rendering the ointment soft and per-\nmanent.\nGlycerine Ointment.\nStarch 3 parts.\nGlycerine 10 parts.\nThe starch, finely pulverized, is digested for\nfor about an hour with the glycerine, at the\nheat of a water bath.\nOintment of Iodine. Todine is very soluble\nin vaseline, and it is supposed enters partially\ninto combination with the hydrocarbon, giving\nrise to a considerable effervescence (probable\nhydrogen being displaced). Iodine dissolves\nslowly in vaseline if allowed to macerate in it\nor if rubbed up with it, but for ointment of\niodine the following gives the best results\nIodine 20grn.\nAlcohol sufficient.\nVaseline loz.\nDissolve the iodine in the alcohol, and mix\nwith the vaseline placed on a hot water bath.\nVery little iodine will be evaporated during the\noperation.\nIodide of Iron Ointment.— It iron be added to\na solution of iodine in vaseline and repeatedly\nshaken (the whole kept liquid on a water\nbath), the almost black color of the iodine dis-\nappears, and if an excess of iron be employed\nthe color becomes green, and if it be then fil-\ntered the ointment will have a beautiful eme-\nrald green color through transmitted light and\nalmost black by reflected light.\nIodine 4 drm.\nIron filings 12 drm.\nVaseline. 16 oz.\nThis iodide of Iron ointment is stable and al-\nmost without taste. Prepare from it a jelly by\nadding an equal quantity of very fine sugar,\nin which manner it could be easily taken by\nchildren. Mr. E. Fougera, of Brooklyn, has\nalso prepared a bromide and chloride in like\nmanner, and suggests its use in keeping the\nprotosalts of iron by enveloping them in it.\nOintments for the Itch.— The usual treatment\nof itch has been noticed elsewhere, and various\nlotions, ointments and pommades, of more or\nless value in its treatment, will be found under\nthe names of their leading ingredients. Here\nare a few additional formulas\n1. (French Hospital)\nChloride of lime 1 drm.\nRectified spirit 2 fl. drm c\nRub together, add of\nSweet oil Yz fl. drm.\nSoft soap. 2 oz.\nOil of lemon Yi fl. drm\nMix perfectly, and then further add, of—\nCommon salt 1 oz.\nSulphur 1 oz.\nCheap, very effective, and much less offensive\nthan sulphur ointment.\n2. (Le Gros)\nIodide of potassium ^drm.\nLard 1 oz.\nMix. Cleanly, harmless and effective.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0370.jp2"},"367":{"fulltext":"Ointments.\n355\nOrnaments.\n3. (Robertson)\nSoft soap 1 oz.\nRum or (proof spirit) 1 tablespoonf ul.\nChloride of lime (dry w\nand good) f VA oz\nMix and add of—\nLard 2 oz.\nSaid to be a very effective and cleanly remedy.\n4. (Jackson)\nPalm oil 1 oz.\nSulphur 1 oz.\nWhite hellebore 1 oz.\nLard..., 2 oz.\nMix. Should be used with caution.\n5. Take bichloride of mercury, 1 part; lard,\n15 parts. Mix well together,\nOintment of Iodide of .Mercwrj/.— Lard, 3 oz.;\niodide of mercury, 45 grains. Mix well.\nNeuralgic Ointment:\nMenthol 45 grn.\nCocaine 15 grn.\nChloral 10 grn.\nVaseline 5 drm.\nTo be applied to the painful part.\nOintment, Simple.— 1. Olive oil, 514 A- oz.;\nwhite wax, 2 oz.; melted together and stirred\nwhile cooling.\n2. Prepared lard, 4 lb.; white wax, 1 lb.; as\nthe last.\n3. White wax, 2.; prepared lard, 3.; almond\noil, 8.; melt together and stir until it be-\ncomes solid. The above are mild emollients,\nuseful in healthy ulcers, excoriations, etc., but\nchiefly as forming the basis of other ointments.\nSulphur Ointment\nSublimed sulphur 1 oz.\nLard 4 oz.\nMix thoroughly, by trituration. These are the\nproportions of the new Br. and the E. and D.\nPh. In the last London Ph. a larger quantity\nof sulphur is ordered.\nThe compound sulphur ointment of the Lon-\ndon Ph. consists of—\nNitrate of potassa (in\nfine powder) 40 grn.\nWhite hellebore (in fine\npowder) 10 drm. (troy)\nSulphur 4 oz. (troy).\nSoft soap 4 oz. (troy).\nLard 1 lb. (troy).\nIt is said to be more efficacious than the simple\nointment; but is apt to irritate a delicate skin.\nOintment of White Wax:\n1. White wax (pure) 2 oz.\nPrepared lard 3 oz.\nAlmond oil 3 fl. oz.\nMelt them together, and stir the mixture until\nit solidifies. This is the unguentum simplex of\nthe new British Pharmacopoeia.\n2. White wax 2 oz.\nOlive oil 5)4 fl. oz.\nAs before. A mild emollient, in various appli-\ncations, but chiefly as a basis for other oint-\nments and medicated pommades. On the Con-\ntinent it is regarded as more healing when\nmade with yellow wax.\nSpermaceti Ointment. Simple ointment,\nemollient dressing, etc.\n1. Spermaceti 5 oz.\nWhite wax (pure) 2 oz.\nAlmond oil 1 pt.\nMelt them together by a gentle heat, and stir\nconstantly until the whole solidifies.\nOintment of Creosote:\nCreosote 1 fl. drm.\nSpermaceti ointment 1 oz.\nTriturate them together, in a slightly warmed\nmortar, until perfectly united, and subse-\nquently until nearly cold.\nOnions, Metal. See Alloys. (Fusible.)\nOpals, to Restore the Polish. —By rub-\nbing with oxide of tin or putty powder on a\npiece of chamois skin, wet finish with refined\nchalk, also on chamois skin, wet, then wash the\nopal with a soft brush and water. With a little\ncare this may be done without taking it from\nthe setting.\nOpodeldoc.— Steer s opodeldoc is as fol-\nlows White Castile soap, cut small, 2 lb.; cam-\nphor, 5 oz.; oil of rosemary, 1 oz.; oil of ori-\nganum, 2 oz.; rectified spirit, 1 gal.; dissolve in\na corked bottle by the heat of a water bath,\nand when quite cool, strain; then add ammon-\nium hydroxide, aqua ammonia, 11 oz.; immedi-\nately put it in bottles, cork close, and tie over\nwith bladder. It will be very fine, solid, and\ntransparent when cold. The liquid opodeldoc\nis prepared by taking 2 oz. Castile soap shav-\nings, and dissolving them in one quart alcohol,\nwith gentle heat; then add 1 oz. camphor, oz.\noil rosemary, and 2 oz. spirits hartshorn, aqua\nammonia.\nOptical Instruments.— Blue or Gray\nFinish on. The steel gray or bluish tint upon\ninstruments is made by dipping or washing\nwith chloride of platinum solution, which is\nmade by dissolving platinum in 2 parts muri-\natic (hydrochloric) acid, 1 part nitric acid,\nmixed; as much platinum as the quantity of\nacid you may wish to prepare will take up.\nUse platinum foil, put the whole in a glass bot-\ntle with wide mouth, cover loosely, and place\nin warm sand bath or any place where it will be\nas hot as boiling water for a few days, when it\nwill be ready for use. As soon as the proper\ncolor is produced wash the articles in water. If\nthe solution is not saturated, the brass will\nturn brown and rough.\nOrangeade. 1. Pare off the thin, yellow\nrind of 4 oranges and infuse in J4 pt. boiling\nwater. Express the juice of 12 Florida oranges\nand strain through a hair sieve add to this\nlb. of fine white sugar, the infusion from the\nrinds and 1 qt. of water. Ice the orangeade.\n2. Slice crosswise 4 oranges and 1 lemon put\nthem into an earthen jug with 4 oz. of lump\nsugar pour upon these 1 qt. of boiling water\nand allow to stand covered for 1 hour. Decant\nand ice.\n3. Simple sirup, y A- oz.; tincture of orange\npeel, )4 dr.; citric acid, 1 scruple; fill the bottle\nwith aerated water.\nOrangeade, Effervescing or Aerated or Sherbet.\n1. Mix 1 lb. of sirup of orange peel, I gal.\nof water, and 1 oz. citric acid, charge strongly\nwith carbonic acid gas, with a machine.\n2. Sirup orange juice, oz.; aerated water,\n^Pt.\n3. Mix 1 lb. sirup of orange peel, 1 gal. water\nand 1 oz. citric acid, and charge it strongly with\ncarbonic acid gas, with a machine.\n4. Sirup of orange juice, fl. oz.; aerated\nwater, pt.\nOrange Glass Substitutes. See Pho-\ntography.\nOrcein. —Lichen Lake. —A brownish-red\npowder, nearly insoluble in water, obtained by\ndissolved orcin in ammonia, exposed to air and\nprecipitated with dilute acetic acid. Produces\npurple when dissolved in solution of ammonia.\nOrcin.— The general product of the decom-\nposition of the acids obtained from the tinc-\ntorial lichens under the influence of heat or\nthe alkaline earths.\nOre.— An ore is a substance containing a\nmetal in its natural state, chiefly as sulphide,\noxide, or carbonate, and less frequently as\narsenide, chloride, sulphate, phosphate and\nsilicate. Hiorns.\nOr Molu, or Ormulu. See Alloys.\nOrnaments, Composition for. See\nCompositionsc","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0371.jp2"},"368":{"fulltext":"Oroide.\n356\nOzouin,\nOroide. See Alloys.\nOrpiment.— Yellow sulphide of arsenic. It\nforms the basis of the pigment called king s\nyellow.\nOstrich Feathers, to Clean. See Cleans-\ning, Feathers.\nOstrich Feathers, to Dye. See Dye-\ning.\nOttawa Beer. See Beers.\nOxidation.— This term means the combina-\ntion of bodies with oxygen. It is of the great-\nest importance, and cannot afford to be over-\nlooked. Many chemicals oxidize instantly\nwhen exposed to the air— this must be borne in\nmind Many of the greatest processes in manu-\nfacturing chemicals depend upon this union\nwith oxygen. Rust (which see) is the result\nof the oxidation of the iron.\nOxidizing with Solution of Platinum. Dis-\nsolve sufficient platinum in aqua regia, and\ncarefully evaporate the resulting solution\n(chloride of platinum) to dryness. The dried\nmass may then be dissolved in alcohol, ether, or\nwater, according to the effect which it is desired\nto produce, a slightly different effect being pro-\nduced by each of the solutions. Apply the so-\nlution of platinum with a camel s hair brush,\nand repeat the operation as often as may be\nnecessary to increase the depth of tone. A sin-\ngle application is frequently sufficient. The\nethereal or alcoholic solution of platinum must\nbe kept in a well stoppered bottle, and in a cool\nplace. The aqueous solution of platinu m should\nbe applied hot.\nOxidizing Copper and Brass.— Immerse the ar-\nticles in a solution of 2 oz. nitrate of iron and 2\noz. hyposulphite of soda to 1 pint of water,\nuntil the desired shade of oxidation is acquired,\nthen wash, dry, and brush.\nSilver, to Oxidize.— 1. Add 4 or 5 thousandths of\nammonium sulphide or potassium sulphide to\nwater, at a temperature of 160° to 180° F. When\nthe articles are dipped into this solution, an iri-\ndescent coating of silver sulphide is produced,\nwhich after a few seconds turns blue black if\nallowed to remain in the liquid. Remove,\nrinse, scratch-brush, and burnish when desired.\n2. There are two distinct shades in use, one\nproduced by a chloride, which has a brownish\ntint, and the other by sulphur, which has a\nbluish black tint. To produce the former, it is\nonly necessary to wash the article with a solu-\ntion of sal ammoniac (ammonium chloride).\n3. A much more beautiful tint may be ob-\ntained by employing a solution composed of\nequal parts of copper sulphate and ammonium\nchloride in vinegar (or dilute acetic acid). The\nfine black tint may be produced by a slightly\nwarm solution of sodium or potassium sul-\nphide.\n4. Bromine, 5 grn.; potassium bromide, 5\ndwt.; water, 10 oz.; boil the silver in this usually\ntwo to five minutes, then polish with rouge.\n5. Dissolve sulphate of copper, 2 dwts ni-\ntrate of potash, 1 dwt.; ammonium chloride,\n2 dwts.; in a little acetic acid. Warm the arti-\ncle and apply the solution with a camel hair\npencil and expose to the fumes of sulphur in a\nclosed box. Parts not to be colored must be\ncoated with wax.\n6. Dip the clean silver article in a solution of\nsulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur), 2 drm.,\nto a pt. of water. Heat this solution to a tem-\nperature of 175° F. Immerse for a few seconds\nonly, when the article becomes blue black.\nFor a velvet black, dip the article, previous to\noxidizing, in a solution of mercurous nitrate\nand water and rinse. Then dip in the sul\nphide solution as above. For a brown shade,\noxidize in the potassium sulphide as above,\nthen dip in a liquid composed of 10 parts blue\nvitriol and 5 parts sal ammoniac to 100 parts\nvinegar. After oxidation brush with a scratch-\nbrush very lightly, to brighten and variegate\nthe surface. There are many other methods,\namong which will be found the following\n7. Expose to the vapor of chlorine.\n8. Use a solution of equal parts copper sul-\nphate and ammonium chloride dissolved in\nvinegar.\n9. Potassium sulphide dissolved in warm\nwater.\n10. Sodium sulphide dissolved in warm water.\n11. Wash with a solution of ammonium chlo-\nride.\nOxychloride. A term often loosely ap-\nplied to compounds of an oxide and chloride.\nOxygen. Oxygen may be obtained on a\nsmall scale very readily by simply heating in a\nclose retort a mixture of 4 parts chlorate of\npotash and 1 part black oxide of manganese.\nIf large quantities are desired, the continuous\nprocess of T. Du Motay may be employed. The\nprinciple of this process resides in the fact\nthat the manganates and permanganates of\npotash, soda and baryta, the ferrates and\nchromates of the same bases, and in general\nall metallic oxides and acids which will form,\nwith potassa, soda or baryta, binary com-\npounds capable of superoxidizing, possess the\nproperty of yielding their oxygen, at a more\nor less elevated temperature, when they are\nsubmitted to the action of a current of steam.\nThese bodies, thus deoxidized, also possess the\nproperty of reoxidizing themselves when they\nare exposed to a temperature more or less\ngreat. The atmosphere is therefore the con-\nstant source from which the oxygen is derived.\nThe mode of operation is the following One\nof the binary compounds just enumerated is\nplaced in a distilling vessel, whether at the\nmaximum or minimum state of oxidation. If\nthe compound is in the latter condition, it is\noxidized by means of a current of air mechani-\ncally drawn over it; if at the former stage, it\nis deoxidized by means of a current of steam.\nThe oxygen and steam, on issuing from the\nmouth of the retort, pass together into a con-\ndenser, where the steam is separated by con-\ndensation, while the oxygen passes over into a\ngas holder, and is there collected. When all\nthe utilizable oxygen has been disengaged by\nthe steaming process, the action of superoxida-\ntion by means of the air current is recom-\nmenced. By this alternate process the oxygen\nis generated as long as may be required.\nOxymel. An acidulous sirup made of\nhoney and vinegar.\nOxymel. Clarified honey, 0 32 oz. (avoirdu-\npois); acetic acid, 4 fl. oz.; distilled water, 4 fl.\noz. Liquefy by heat (Br Ph.).\nOysters, to Preserve. A method of pre-\nserving oysters is adopted by the Chinese. The\nfish are taken from the shells, plunged into boil-\ning water for an instant, and then exposed to\nthe sun till all the moisture is removed. They\nremain fresh for a long time, and retain their\nfull flavor. Only the fattest can be so treated.\nOysters are also largely canned, much in the\nsame way as salmon.\nOzolterit.— Syn. Mineral Wax.— A brown\n(sometimes yellow or black) compact substance\nfound in the tertiary strata, mostly in close\nproximity to coal measures. Melts at a tem-\nperature of from 60° to 80° C.\nOzone Paper. See Paper.\nOzone, to Produce.— Ozone maybe easily\nproduced by means of an aqueous solution of\npermanganate of potash and oxalic acids. A\nvery small quantity of these salts, placed in an\nopen porcelain dish, is all that is necessary, the\nwater being renewed occasionally, as it evapor-\nates. Metallic dishes should not be used.\nOzonin. Ozonin is a patented bleaching\ncompound. It is prepared by dissolving 125\nparts of rosin in 200 parts of oil of turpentine,\nand then stirring in, first a solution of 22*5\nparts of potassium hydrate in 40 parts of","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0372.jp2"},"369":{"fulltext":"Packfong.\n357\nPaints.\nwater, and after that 90 parts of hydrogen\nperoxide. The resulting gelatinous mass, when\nexposed to sunlight for two or three days, is\nconverted into a mobile liquid, and is then\nready for use. Mix with water in the propor-\ntion of 1 grm. to 1 liter. This ozonin acts as an\nenergetic bleacher, and may be used in either\nalkaline or acid fluids.\nPackfong. See Alloys.\nPads, Composition for Padding\nPaper.— The regular composition used is\nmade from best glue and glycerine and water\ncolored with aniline. This needs heating. A\nsolution of gum tragacanth with a little glyce-\nrine might answer your requirements, but we\nadvise the first. For 5 lb. of dry glue allow 1\nlb. of glycerine.\nPad, Copying. See Hektograph.\nPads, Glue for. See Glues.\nPads, Paste for. See Pastes.\nPad (Ever Ready) for Rubber Stamps.\nThe following is said to be a cushion that will\ngive color permanently. It consists of a box fill-\ned with an elastic composition, saturated with a\n.suitable color. The cushion fulfills its purpose\nfor years without being renewed, always con-\ntains sufficient moisture, which is drawn from\nthe atmosphere, and continues to act as a color\nstamp cushion so long as a remnant of the mass\nor composition remains in the box or recepta-\ncle. This cushion or pad is too soft to be self-\nsupporting, but should be held in a low, flat\npan, and have a permanent cloth cover. The\ncomposition consists preferably of 1 part gela-\ntine, 1 part water, 6 parts glycerine, and 6 parts\ncoloring matter. A suitable black color can\nbe made from the following materials 1 part\ngelatine glue. 3 parts lampblack, aniline black,\nor a suitable quantity of logwood extract, 10\nparts of glycerine, part absolute alcohol, 2 parts\nwater, 1 part Venetian soap, i part salicylic\nacid. For red, blue or violet, 1 part gelatine\nglue, 2 parts aniline of desired color, 1 part\nabsolute alcohol, 10 parts glycerine, 1 part\nVenetian soap, and i part salicylic acid. The\nfollowing are two additional receipts used for\nthis purpose: 1. Mix and dissolve 2 to 4 drm.\naniline violet, 15 oz. alcohol, 15 oz. glycerine.\nThe solution is poured on the cushion and rub-\nbed in with a brush. The general method of\npreparing the pad is to swell the gelatine with\ncold water, then boil and add the glycerine,\netc. A full description of the general method\nwill be found under the Hektograph.\n2. Aniline violet, 90 gr.; boiling rain water, 1\noz.; to which is added a little glycerine and a\nsmall quantity of molasses. The quantities of\nlast two ingredients will vary with the season,\nbut halt a teaspoonf ul will be ample for the\nquantities of violet and water specified.\nPain Killer. —Spirit of camphor, 2 oz.;\ntincture of capsicum, 1 oz.; tincture of guaiac,\nK oz.; tincture myrrh, y% oz.; alcohol, 4 oz.\nPaint Brushes, to Clean. See Cleans-\ning.\nPainters .Cream.\ners\nSee Cream, Paint-\nPaint, Fireproof. See Fireproonng.\nPaint, to Remove. See Cleansing.\nPaints, Face. See Rouges.\nPaints and Painting. Papering and\npainting are best done in cold weather, espe-\ncially the latter, for the wood absorbs the oil\nof paint much more than in warm weather;\nwhile in cold weather the oil hardens on the\noutside, making a coat which will protect the\nwood instead of soaking into it.\nPreparing the Work.— In preparing work for\npainting, too much care cannot be exercised,\nas suceceeding coats and the final result de-\npend very much on the proper condition of the\nwork when the priming coat is applied. First\nall the rough places in the wood should be\nrubbed down with a block covered with sand-\npaper, and the mouldings and deals should be\nwell cleaned out with sandpaper. Then, as this\nis a matter of prime importance, every knot,\nhowever small, every indication of sap on the\nwood, or discoloration of any kind, and every\nappearance of pitch or gum, should be care-\nfully varnished over with white shellac varnish,\nif the work is to be finished in white or light\ntints, or with varnish made from unbleached or\ncommon shellac, if the work is to be finished\nin dark shades. The common shellac, in the\nlatter case, answers equally well with the\nbleached article, and at less cost. This should\nnot, under any circumstances, be neglected, as\nit is impossible, in the nature of things, other-\nwise to make good work.\nWhen work is to be finished in two coats, the\nputty used for stopping the nail heads and other\nindentations should be made of white lead,\nworked up with common whiting to the proper\nconsistency, and the filling should be done af-\nter the first coat shall have become well dried.\nWhen more than two coats are to be applied,\nthe filling should be done between the first and\nsecond coats, with ordinary pure linseed oil\nputty.\nIt should be adopted, as a rule, never to apply\npure white as a priming coat; no matter\nwhether the work is to be finished with one or\nfour coats, the result will always be more satis-\nfactory if the first coat be stained. A little\nfinely ground lampblack answers as well for\nthis as anything.\nThe only way to produce solid, uniform work\nis by making every suceeding coat fighter in\ntint than the one which preceded it. This is es-\npecially the case with walls and other extended\nflat surfaces. No matter what the finish is to\nbe, the first coat should always be darker than\nthe one which succeeds it; and the darker the\nshade of the finishing coat, the more important\nit is that this rule should be observed. Tf the\nwork is to be finished with black, prime with\nblack. If with green, let that be the color\nof all the preceding coats. If with blue,\nlet that color be the groundwork. What can\nbe more stupid than applying to work which is\nto be finished in imitation of black walnut a\npriming coat of white? All work should be\nprimed especially with regard to the finishing\ncolor.\nThe exact proportions of ingredients best to\nbe used in mixing paints vary according to\ntheir quality, the nature of the work required,\nthe climate, and other considerations. The\ncomposition of paints for different coats also\nvaries considerably. The proportions given in\nthe table on page 358 must only be taken as an\napproximate guide when the materials are of\ngood quality.\nProportions of Colors for Ordinary Paints.\nIngredients by weight\nColors\n100\no\ntf\np-\na\n1-3\ntf\n_©\n03\ntf\nO\no\ntf\no\na\n3\na\ns\ntf\nO\nu\nM\n09\n3\ntf\nGO\nWhite\nBlack\n100\n2\n50\nGreen\n25\n99\n98\n50\n75\nRed\n1\nChocolate\n4\nm\n1","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0373.jp2"},"370":{"fulltext":"Paints.\n358\nPaints.\nTable showing the Composition of the Different Coats of White Paint and the Quantities required to\nCover One Hundred Yards of Newly Worked Pine.\n0)\no\n-co\nS\nrv\nU\nH\n1M\nKemarks.\nInside work,\nfour coats not flatted.\nPriming 1\nlb.\nlb.\n16\n15\n13\n13\n16\n12\n12\n12\n9\n18^\n15\n15\n15\npt.\n6\n%Yz\n%Yz\n6\n4\n4\n4\n2\n2\n2\n3\nlb.\nM\nY±\nYi\n1-8\n1-10\n1-10\n1-10\n1-10\n1-8\n1-10\n1-10\n1-10\nSometimes more red lead is\nSecond coat\n2\n2\n2\n2^\n3^\nV4\nYz\nWz\nWz\ny*\nYz\nused and less drier.\nThird coat\nSometimes just enough red\nFourth coat\nlead is used to give a flesh-colored\nInside work,\nfour coats and flatting.\nPi iming*\nV/o\ntint.\nSecond coat\nThird coat\nFourth coat\nOutside work,\nfour coats not flatted.\n2\nWhen the finished color is not\nto be pure white, it is better to\nhave nearly all the oil boiled oil.\nAll boiled oil does not work well\nSecond coat\nFor pure white, a larger propor-\ntion of raw oil is necessary, be-\ncause boiled oil is too dark.\nThird coat\nFourth coat\nFor every 100 sq. yd. besides the materials\nsnumerated in the foregoing, 2)4, lb. white lead\nand 5 lb. putty will be required for stopping-.\nThe area which a given quantity of paint will\ncover depends upon the nature of the surface\nto which it is applied, the proportion of the in-\ngredients, and the state of the weather. When\nthe work is required to dry quickly, more tur-\npentine is added to all the coats. In repainting\nold work, two coats are generally required, the\nold paint being considered as priming. Some-\ntimes another coat may be deemed necessary.\nFor outside old work exposed to the sun, both\ncoats should contain 1 pt. turpentine and 4 pt.\nboiled oil, the remaining ingredients being as\nstated in the foregoing table. The extra tur-\npentine is used to prevent blistering.\nThere is not half enough of dark colors used\nin priming applications. Venetian red, finely\nground in boiled oil, deeply stained with black\n—and used very thin, in order to stain the wood\nas much as possible— is the best first coat for\nwork which is to be finished in imitation of\nblack walnut or other dark wood. The suc-\nceeding coats should be as dark as may be with\na view to the proper shade of groundwork for\nthe graining. In such case, if (as must happen\nin the ordinary course of events) the work be-\ncomes bruised or chipped— by an accidental\nknock from a chair leg or other article of house\nfurniture— the general appearance of it is little\nimpaired thereby. Quite the contrary, how-\never, is the case if the underneath coats are\nwhite. Then an accident of the kind before\nmentioned, shows a white spot, which staringly\nproclaims the work to be a delusion and a sham.\nDark colors, too, as the Venetian red before\nmentioned, make better foundations than\nwhite lead or zinc. They dry harder and rub\nbetter, and, what is most important, cost less.\nThis matter having been duly considered, let\nus now proceed to the coats succeeding the\nfirst. Before applying a second coat, the first\nshould be carefully rubbed, and all the nail\nheads and other indentations carefully stopped\nwith pure linseed oil putty— using for flat sur-\nfaces a square bladed putty knife. Puttying\nwith the fingers should never be tolerated (good\nwork is now the subject under consideration).\nThis done, the whole should be carefully exam-\nined to ascertain if the oil in the former coat\nshall have revealed any resinous or pitchy\nspots, not previously covered with the shellac.\nThese preliminaries being attended to, the work\nmay be considered ready for a second coat.\nThe directions as to rubbing with sandpaper\nare to be observed in all the succeeding coats-\nAs a rule, on interior work, paint should\nnever be applied to a surface which has not\nbeen previously rubbed.\nEvery painter has seen (the result, too, of un-\npardonable negligence) plates of glass so cov-\nered with spatters that to remove them would\nrequire more time than would serve to paint\nthe woodwork of a full trimmed window.\nIn priming work which is to be finished in\noak, finely ground French ocher is recom-\nmended. The objection to this pigment, that it\ndoes not work smoothly and easily under the\nbrush, has arisen from its coarseness. Finely\nground in boiled oil, it works as smoothly\nas white lead, and makes an excellent foun-\ndation for the succeeding coats.\nFor walls the first coat should be as dark in\nshade and as thin as practicable, the object be-\ning to stain the plaster as much as possible.\nIndeed, if the whole mass of plaster could be\nstained through and through, it would be de-\nsirable to so stain it.\nThe use of glue in wall painting is of doubt-\nful propriety. It should never, under any cir-\ncumstance, be put on until after the second\ncoat, and then rubbed on with a rag, very\nlightly. In first class work, however, its use is\nnot recommended.\nPlaster mixed with weak glue size— which\nprevents its setting too rapidly is the best\nmaterial. for stopping walls preparatory to\npainting, and each coat of paint should be\ncarefully rubbed with worn sandpaper, before\nthe succeeding coat is put on. For preparing*\nwalls a small pocket trowel will be found a\nmost serviceable tool, or a trowel shaped putty\nknife, which article has come into general use.","height":"4344","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0374.jp2"},"371":{"fulltext":"Paints.\n359\nPaints.\nThe preparation of ceilings for whitewash-\ning (or kalsomining as this operation is some-\ntimes pretentiously called) is an operation\nrequiring some skill and knowledge of\nhow to do it. A dirty ceiling, which has\nbeen subjected to successive coats of white-\nwash, whether of lime, or of whiting and\nglue size, cannot be made solidly and\nsmoothly white by additional whitewash-\ning. The mass has become spongy, and sucks\nup the water so quickly that the material can-\nnot be evenly distributed. In such case the\nonly way is to begin anew, to go at once down\nto hard pan by removing all the previous appli-\ncations by washing and scraping. This is best\neffected with a broad bladed, square pointed\nputty knife, keeping the ceiling wet meanwhile.\nPlaster (hard finish) is not of uniform density,\nand some spots are much more absorbent than\nothers. To remedy this a mixture of soft soap\nand alum, dissolved in water, should be applied\nwith a broad kalsomine brush.\nIt is not assumed that mere verbal instruc-\ntions can teach the art of whitening or tinting\nwalls and ceilings in water colors. To produce\ngood results, great skill in preparing the ma-\nterials and dexterity in manipulation are re-\nquired; and such work should be intrusted only\nto competent hands. Amass of unsuitable ma-\nterial may be cheaply put upon a ceiling, but\nwhen the same shall require repainting, the\ncost of labor will be greater in removing the\nprevious coating than will be the whole cost\nof repainting. These remarks, too, apply\nequally to all kinds of painting; and reference\nis made to the whitening and tinting of ceil-\nings only, because of the general impression\nthat this kind of work may be performed by\nanybody. The materials and tools used in\npainting are too costly to be wasted and worn\nby incompetent handling.\nTaste in Color. In rooms to be lived in, sim-\nple white for color of walls and paint, as well\nas any extremely dark treatment, should\nbe avoided. The walls of rooms should\nbe such backgrounds as will best suit the\ncomplexions and dresses of the larger num-\nber of people. Delicate white intensifies by\ncontrast any unpleasantness or want of per-\nfection; extreme dark would make people\nlook white and ghastly. Neutral colors will\nbe found the best— generally some gray or\ncool color that will contrast with warmth\nof complexions. On no account let an\nabsolutely pure color be used for general sur-\nfaces. Nature provides no such color in pig-\nments. Her yellows are greenish or reddish,\nand so on. Nor does she use it to any extent in\ninanimate nature. So much so that you will\nfind that if you have much difficulty in describ-\ning a color, you may be certain it is good; the\nmore difficulty the more beauty. Nature trusts\nmainly to gradations of tone, using vivid color\nin small quantities only, as in the touches on\nbright flowers and butterflies. This teaching\nof nature will be found seconded in the pic-\ntures of the greatest artists, and in following-\nsuch teaching, it is necessary to consider the\nobject to which (in domestic work, say) the\nrooms are to be devoted. A drawing room, it\nis agreed, should be light, festive and gay; din-\ning room at once more sober, and with more\ndepth and warmth, as befits its uses. You\nmust also consider the light and shade; open-\nings, and the positions of them; for these may\n(or may not) effect for you contrast of tone,\nand may even touch the question of the good\nsense of your whole scheme of decoration.\nAnti-Corrosive Paint.— Take equal parts by\nweight of whiting and white lead, with half the\nquantity of fine sand, gravel, or road dust, and\na sufficient quantity of coloring matter. This\nmixture is made in water and can be used as a\nwater color but it is more durable to dry it in\ncakes or powder after mixing, and then use it\nas an oil paint by grinding it again in linseed\noil. The preparation of oil recommended for\nthis purpose is 12 parts by weight of linseed oil;\n1 part boiled linseed oil, and 3 parts sulphate\nof lime, well mixed, 1 gal. of this prepared oil\nis used to 7 lb. of the powder.\nBackgrounds, Paint for. Mix common oil\npaint with a strong, hot solution of soap. When\napplied to the background as ordinary paint,\nit dries with a dull surf ace and is said not to\ncrack.\nBird Cages, to Paint.— Paint with zinc. Do\nnot use lead. The zinc can be given any de-\nsired tint. It is then coated with light polish-\ning copal varnish, after which it is baked or\nheated at from 100° to 150° F. The varnish\nknown in the trade as extra light polishing-\nvarnish is used by several of the prominent\nbird cage makers.\nBlackboards, Paint or Slating for.—l. Paint\nthe board with ordinary black paint such as\nwill dry with a gloss then apply a coat of black\npaint, mixed with turps instead of oil, which\nwill dry a dead black.\n2. Take lb. logwood and sufficient boiling\nwater to cover it allow it to stand for twenty-\nfour hours. Strain, and apply the solution,\nboiling, if possible, twice, allowing the board to\ndry in the interval. Then dissolve J4 lb. of\ncopperas in about 1 pt. of boiling water, and\napply it boiling, once or twice, according to\nthe degree of blackness obtained. Before using\nit, rub it over well with rushes, straw, ferns,\nor shoemakers heel ball. It may be a little\ndifficult to rub the chalk off at first, but after\na fortnight s use that will disappear. Use un-\nprepared chalk, which writes well.\n3. Place J4 lb. of lampblack on a flat piece of\ntin or iron on a fire till it becomes red, take it\noff and leave it until sufficiently cool, when it\nmust be crushed with the blade of a knife on a\nflat board quite fine then get pt. of spirits\nof turpentine, mix both together, and apply\nthe mixture with a size brush. If the board\nis new, it would be well to give it one or two\ncoats of lampblack not burnt, but mixed with\nboiled oil— adding lb. of patent driers. After\nthe board is thoroughly dried, apply the burnt\nlampblack and turpentine. The preparation\nmust be laid on quickly.\n4. Dissolve 4 oz. shellac in 1 qt. alcohol; add\nlampblack, 6 drm.; ultramarine blue, 1 drm.;\npumice stone, powdered, 3 oz.; rotten stone,\npowdered, 2 oz. Have the board dry and free\nfrom grease.\nSodium silicate, diluted with water, and col-\nored with lampblack, suspended in a little of\nthe silicate, makes an excellent slating.\n5. Lampblack and flour of emery mixed with\nspirit varnish. No more lampblack and flour\nof emery should be used than are sufficient to\ngive the required abrading surface. The thin-\nner the mixture the better. Lampblack should\nbe first ground with a small quantity of spirit\nvarnish or alcohol to free it from lumps. The\ncomposition should be applied to the smoothly\nplaned surface of a board with a common paint\nbrush. Let it become thoroughly hard and dry\nbefore it is used. Hub it down with pumice if\ntoo rough.\n6. Blackboard wash, or liquid slating.— Five\npt. 95% alcohol, 8 oz. shellac, 12 drm. lamp-\nblack, 20 drm. ultramarine blue, 4 oz. powdered\nrotten stone, 6 oz. powdered pumice.\n7. One gal. 9r alcohol, 1 lb. shellac, 8 oz. best\nivory black, 5 oz. finest flour emery, 4 oz. ultra-\nmarine blue. Make a perfect solution of the\nshellac in the alcohol before adding the other\narticles. To apply the slating, have the surface\nsmooth and perfectly free from grease; well\nshake the bottle containing the preparation,\nand pour out a small quantity only into a dish,\nand apply it with a new flat varnish brush as\nrapidly as possible. Keep the bottle well\ncorked, and shake it up each time before pour-\ning out the liquid.\n8. Half gal. shellac varnish, 5 oz. lampblack, 3\noz. powdered iron ore or emery if too thick,\nthin with alcohol. G ive 3 coats of the composi-","height":"4329","width":"2666","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0375.jp2"},"372":{"fulltext":"Paints.\n360\nPaints.\ntion, allowing each to dry before putting on\nthe next the first may be of shellac and lamp-\nblack alone.\n9. To make 1 gal. of the paint for a black-\nboard, take 10 oz. pulverized and sifted pumice,\n6 oz. powdered rottenstone (infusorial silica), M\nlb. good lampblack, and alcohol enough to form\nwith these a thick paste, which must be well\nrubbed and ground together. Then dissolve 14\noz. shellac in the remainder of the gal. of alco-\nhol by digestion and agitation, and finally mix\ni his varnish and the paste together. It is ap-\nplied to the board with a brush, care being\ntaken to keep the paint well stirred, so that the\npumice will not settle. Two coats are usually\nnecessary. The first should be allowed to dry\nthoroughly before the second is put on, the\nlatter being applied so as not to disturb or rub\noff any portion of the first. One gal. of this\npaint will ordinarily furnish 2 coats for 60 sq.\nyd. of blackboard. When the paint is to be\nput on plastered walls, the wall should be pre-\nviously coated with glue size— 1 lb. glue, 1 gal.\nwater, enough lampblack to color put on hot.\n10. Instead of the alcohol mentioned in 7, take\na solution of borax in water dissolve the shel-\nlac in this and color with lampblack.\n11. Dilute soda silicate (water glass) with an\nequal bulk of water, and add sufficient lamp-\nblack to color it. The lampblack should be\nground with water and a little of the silicate\nbefore being added to the rest of the liquid.\nCheap Glossy Black Paint.— Gum amber, 16 oz.;\nmelt in boiling linseed oil, H pint add genuine\nasphaltum and resin, each 3 oz. Mix thoroughly\nover a fire, remove to open air and graduaUy\nadd 1 pt. of oil of turpentine slightly warmed.\nBoilers, Paint for.— 1. Use asphaltum varnish.\nThere is little or no odor from it when dry.\n2. Coal tar and ground graphite thinned with\nturpentine make an excellent paint for boiler\nfronts and pipes in boiler room. The steam\npipes for heating should not be painted, or if\nrequired, should only have a very thin coat of\nlampblack and linseed oil. Tin is unfit for\nroofs of boiler houses. Slate is best. You can\nmake a temporary covering on the tin roof\nwith asphalt and gravel. This will not save the\ntin, which will soon give out entirely. The\ncheapest way out of your trouble is to take off\nthe tin and slate the roof.\n3. Rub it over with a mixture of boiled oil\nand lampblack. From the latter the grease\nshould be taken before mixing by placing it in\na flower pot, the top and bottom sealed with\nclay and subjected to a good heat.\nBranding Paint (Red).— Take of shellac, 2 oz.;\nborax, 2 oz.: water, 25 oz.; gum arabic, 2 oz.\nBoil the borax and shellac in water until they\nare dissolved, add the gum arabic and withdraw\nfrom the fire. When the solution has become\ncold, complete 25 oz.with water and add Vene-\ntian red enough to bring it to a suitable con-\nsistence and color.\nBronze Paint for Plaster.— Boil 31b. pure lin-\nseed oil with 12 oz. finely powdered litharge;\nstrain through a coarse canvas cloth and allow\nto stand until clear; 15 oz. of this soap varnish\nmixed with 12 oz. metallic soap powder made\nas follows To a solution of soda soap in linseed\noil, cleared by straining, add a mixture of 4 pt.\nsulphate of copper solution and 1 pt. sulphate\nof iron solution, which precipitates a metallic\nsoap of a peculiar bronze hue; wash with cold\nwater, strain and dry to powder) and 5 oz. fine\nwhite wax are to be melted together at a gentle\nheat in a porcelain basin by means of a water\nbath and allowed to remain for a time in a\nmelted state to expel any moisture that it may\ncontain. It is then applied with a brush to the\nsurface of the plaster, previously heated to 200°\nF., being careful to lay it on smoothly and with-\nout filling up any small indentations of the\nplaster design. Place it for a few days in a\ncool place and as soon as the smell of the soap\nvarnish has gone off rub the surface over with\ncotton wool or fine linen rag, and variegated\nwith a few streaks of metal powder or shell\ngold. Small objects may be dipped in the melt-\ned mixture and exposed to the heat of a fire\ntill thoroughly penetrated and evenly coated\nwith it.\nBronze Paint, for Iron or Brass.— Chrome\ngreen, 2 lb.; ivory black, 1 oz.; chrome yellow,\n1 oz.; good japan, 1 gill; grind all together and\nmix with linseed oil.\nAntique Bronze.— Sal ammoniac, 2 oz.; cream\ntartar, 6 oz.; common salt, 12 oz.; dissolve in 2\npt. hot water, then add 4 oz. nitrate of copper\ndissolved in 1 pt. of water, mix well and apply\nwith a brush several times to the article in a\ndamp situation.\nCheap Paint. Three hundred parts washed\nand sieved white sand, 40 parts precipitated\nchalk, 50 parts rosin and 4 parts linseed oil are\nmixed and boiled in an iron kettle, and then 1\npart oxide copper and 1 part sulphuric acid are\nadded. This mass is supplied with an ordinary\npaint brush while warm. If it is too thick it is\ndiluted with linseed oil. This paint dries very\nrapidly, and gets very hard, but protects wood\nwork excellently.— Corps. Qras. Ind.\nContrast Colors, for Painting Machinery.—\nDeep blue and golden brown. Black and warm\nbrown. Chocalate and light blue. Maroon and\nwarm green. Deep red and gray.\nCopper Paint.— Precipate metallic copper out\nof any solution of a copper salt by introducing\nscrap iron into the liquid. Then mix the pre-\ncipitated copper with linseed oil or varnish.\nPaint, to Destroy.— Mix 1 part by weight of\nAmerican pearlash with 3 parts quick stone\nlime by slaking the lime in water, and then ad-\nding the pearlash, making the mixture about\nthe consistence of paint. Lay the above over\nthe whole of the work required to be cleaned,\nwith an old brush let it remain fourteen or\nsixteen hours, when the paint can be easily\nscraped off.\nDistemper for Photographic Backgrounds.—\nTake whiting-, iy 2 to 2 lb.; lampblack, 3 oz.;\ndamp blue, 4 oz.; glue, 1)4, oz. Dissolve the\nwhiting in 2 qt. water, add nearly all the blue,\nthen add the black, gradually drying after each\naddition by dipping in it a piece of paper and\ndrying at the fire till you get the exact color\ninquired. Then having dissolved the glue in\nwarm water, pour it in; to keep the color from\nfalling off, mix thoroughly together and strain\nthrough canvas.\nDriers for Paints. See Driers.\nEconomical Paint.— Skim milk, 2 qt.; fresh\nslaked lime, 8 oz.; linseed oil, 6 oz.; white Bur-\ngundy pitch, 2 oz.; Spanish white, 3 lb. The\nlime to be slaked in water, exposed to the air,\nand mixed in one-fourth the milk. Dissolve the\npitch in the oil and add a little at a time. Then\nadd the rest of the milk and the Spanish white.\nFlexible Paints for Oil Cloths.— 1. Size with hot\nsoap and alum solutions, used alternately, dry\nand enamel with colors ground fine in oil with\nplenty of driers and a little turpentine. Finish\nwith a thin copal varnish if high gloss is desired.\nHarden by drying at about 200° F.\n2. The following retains sufficient flexibility\nto enable the sheet to be rolled\nSoft soap 2 oz.\nBoiling water 12 oz.\nDissolve and work well into usual oil paint,\n6 lb.\nColoring Floor Borders.— Use fine umber\nmixed with oil and a little turpentine.\nGlass, Transparent Paint .for.— Take for blue\npigment, Prussian blue; for red, crimson lake;\nfor yellow, Indian yellow; and for other shades,\na mixture of the appropriate primary colors.\nRub them in a size made as follows: Venice\nturpentine, 2 parts; spirits of turpentine, 1 part,\nand apply with a brush. The colors are moder-\nately fast unless exposed too long to direct sun-\nlight. A solution of the various aniline dyes in\nshellac varnish has also been recommended.\nGold Paint.— Do not mix the gold size and","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0376.jp2"},"373":{"fulltext":"Paints.\n361 Paints.\npowder together, but go over the article to be\ngilded with the size alone, giving an even and\nmoderate coating. Let it dry, which will not\ntake long, till it is just sticky, or, as gilders call\nit, tacky. Then over a sheet of smooth writing\npaper dust on the dry gold powder by means of\na stout, soft, sable brush.\nGrease Spots to Kill.— Before paintiug, wash\nthe part with saltpeter, or very thin lime white-\nwash. If soap suds are used, they must be\nwashed off thoroughly, as they prevent the\npaint from drying hard.\nIron, Paints f or.— 1. A good cheap black paint\nor varnish for iron work is prepared as follows\nClear (solid) wood tar, 10 lb.; lampblack, or\nmineral black, 1M lb,; oil of turpentine, 5^ qt.\nThe tar is first heated in a large iron pot to\nboiling, or nearly so, and the heat is continued\nfor about 4 hours. The pot is then removed from\nfire out of doors, and while still warm, not hot,\nthe turpentine mixedwith the black is stirred in.\nIf the varnish is too thick to dry quickly, add\nmore turpentine. Benzine can be used instead\nof turpentine, but the results are not so good.\nAsphaltum is preferable to the cheap tar.\n2. Iron Paint.— The Photographisclies Wochen-\nblatt mentions that Spangenberger has a paint\ncomposed of pulverized iron and linseed oil\nvarnish. It is intended for painting damp\nwalls, kettles, outer walls, or any place or ves-\nsel exposed to the action of the open, air and\nweather. Should the article be exposed to fre-\nquent changes of temperature, linseed oil\nvarnish and amber varnish should be mixed\nwith the paint intended for the first 2 coats,\nwithout the addition of any artificial drying-\nmedium. The first coat should be applied\nrather thin, the second a little thicker, and the\nlast in a rather fluid state. It is not necessary\nto free iron from rust, grease, etc., by means\nof acid before applying the paint, as a super-\nficial cleaning is sufficient. The paint is equal-\nly adapted as a weather-proof coating for iron,\nwood and stone.\nLime Paints.— 1. For deal floors, wood, stone\nand brick work. Dissolve 15 dr. good glue by\nboiling with thickish milk of lime which con-\ntains 1 lb. caustic lime. Then add linseed oil,\njust sufficient to form a soap with the lime.\nThis mixture can be used for making up any\ncolor which is not altered by lime. A solution\nof shellac in borax can be added for brown red\nor brown yellow colors, and is very suitable in\npainting deal floors. With a coating of varnish\nor lake, the substances thus painted assume a\nfine luster. They can be polished with linseed\noil or turpentine.\n2. A lime paint which will bear washing\nThree parts flint, 3 parts marble fragments and\nsandstone, 2 parts calcined white china clay,\nand 2 parts slaked lime, all in powder, furnish a\npaint to which chosen colors that may be em-\nployed with lime are added. This paint, by re-\npeated applications, becomes as hard as stone,\nwithout losing porosity.\nLuminous Paints and Colors.— The luminous\n•calcic sulphide (also called sulphide of calcium),\nnow obtainable in the market, has a yellowish\nwhite tint, which considerably limits its direct\napplication as a paint. On the other hand, the\ncalcic sulphide, or the luminous paint obtained\ntherefrom, loses its luminous property, if it is\ndirectly mixed with the ordinary commercial\npaints. An invention patented by Gustav\nSchatte, of Dresden, has for its object to pro-\nduce durable white or colored paints, contain-\ning a luminous substance, which causes them to\nshine in the dark, without changing or neu-\ntralizing in daylight the tint of the coloring\nsubstance or substances contained in such\npaints.\nZanzibar or Kauri copal is melted over a char-\ncoal fire. Fifteen parts of the melt are dis-\nsolved in 60 parts of French oil of turpentine\nand the filtered solution is mixed with 25 parts,\npreviously heated and cooled, pui-e linseed\noil. The varnish which is thus obtained is\nused in the following methods, in the manu-\nfacture of luminous paints, by grinding be-\ntween granite rolls in a paint mill. Iron rolls\nshould be avoided, because particles of iron,\nwhich are liable to be detached, would injure\nthe luminous propeities.\nVarnishes, as they occur in commerce, gen-\nerally contain lead or manganese, which would\ndestroy the phosphorescence of calcium sul-\nphide.\n1. A pure white luminous paint is prepared\nby mixing 40 parts of the varnish, obtained in\nthe above described process, with 6 parts pre-\npared barium sulphate, 6 parts prepared cal-\ncium carbonate, 12 parts prepared white zinc\nsulphide, and 36 parts good luminous calcium\nsulphide, in a proper vessel to an emulsion, and\nthen grinding it very fine in a color mill.\n2. For red luminous paint, 60 parts varnish\nare mixed with 8 parts prepared barium sul-\nphate, 2 parts prepared madder lake, 6 parts\nprepared realgar (red arsenic sulphide) and\n30 parts luminous calcium sulphide, and treat-\ned the same as for white paint.\n3. For orange luminous paint, 46 parts var-\nnish are mixed with 1T 5 parts prepared barium\nsulphate, 1 part prepared Indian yellow, 1*5\nparts prepared madder lake and 38 parts lumin-\nous calcium sulphide.\n4. For yellow luminous paint, 48 parts var-\nnish are mixed with 10 parts prepared barium\nsulphate, 8 parts barium chromate and 34 parts\nluminous calcium sulphide.\n5. For green luminous paint, 48 parts varnish\nare mixed with ten parts prepared barium\nsulphate, 8 parts chromium oxide green, and\n34 parts luminous calcium sulphide.\n6. A blue luminious paint is prepared from 42\nparts varnish, 10 2 parts prepared barium sul-\nphate, 6 4 parts ultramarine blue, 5 4 parts co-\nbalt blue and 46 parts luminous calcium sul-\nphide.\n7. A violet luminous paint is made from 42\nparts varnish, 10*2 parts prepared barium sul-\nphate, 2*8 parts ultramarine violet, 9 parts co-\nbaltous arsenate and 36 parts luminous calcium\nsulphide.\n8. For gray luminous paint, 45 parts of the\nvarnish are mixed with 6 parts prepared bar-\nium sulphate, 6 parts prepared calcium carbon-\nate, 0*5 part ultramarine blue, 6*5 parts gray\nzinc sulphide.\n9. A yellowish brown luminous paint is ob-\ntained from 48 parts varnish, 10 parts precipi-\ntated barium sulphate, 8 parts auri pigment\nand 34 parts luminous calcium sulphide.\n10. Luminous colors for artists use are pre-\npared by using pure East India poppy oil, in\nthe same quantity, instead of the varnish, and\ntaking particular pains to grind the materials\nas fine as possible.\n11. For luminous oil color paints, equal quan-\ntities of pure linseed oil are used in the place\nof the varnish. The linseed oil must be\ncold pressed and thickened by heat. All the\nabove luminous paints can be used in the man-\nufacture of colored papers,*,etc, if the var-\nnish is altogether omitted, and the di y mix-\ntures are ground to a paste with water.\n12. The luminous paints can also be used as\nwax colors for painting on glass and similar\nobjects, by adding, instead of the varnish, 10#\nmore of Japanese wax and }4 the quantity of\nthe latter of olive oil. The wax colors pre-\npared in this way may also be used for painting\nupon porcelain, and are then carefully burned\nwithout access of air. Paintings of this kind\ncan also be treated with water glass. The\nlatest use made of luminous paints in England\nis the painting of harness, which is said to\nproduce quite surprising effects in nocturnal\ndriving.— Ztschr. Oest. Ap. Ver.\n14. Boil together for an hour 2J4 oz. caustic\nlime, recently prepared by calcining clean white\nshells at a strong red heat, with 1 oz. flowers of\nsulphur and 1 qt. of soft water. Set aside in a\ncovered vessel for a few days, then pour off the","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0377.jp2"},"374":{"fulltext":"Paints.\n362\nPaints.\nliquid, collect the clear orange colored crystals\nwhich have been deposited, and let them drain\nand dry on bibulous paper. Place the dried\nsulphide in a clear block lead crucible provided\nwith cover. Heat tor half an hour at a temper-\nature just short of redness, then quickly for\nabout fifteen minutes at a white heat. Remove\ncover and pack in. clay until cold. The addition\nof a small quantity of pure calcium fluoride to\nthe sulphide before heating- it is made. It may\nbe mixed with alcoholic copal varnish.\n15. Luminous or Phosphorescent Paint for\nClock Dials and Other Surfaces.— Heat stron-\ntium thiosulphate for fifteen minutes over a\ngood Bunsen gas lamp, and then for five min-\nutes over a blast lamp.\n16. Heat equal parts strontium carbonate\nand lac sulphuris gently for five minutes, then\nstrongly for twenty-five minutes over a Bun-\nsen lamp then, finally, over a blast lamp for\nfive minutes.\n17. Precipitate strong aqueous solution of\nstrontium chloride by means of sulphuric acid\ndry the precipitate, and heat it to redness for\nsome time in a current of hydrogen then over\na Bunsen lamp for ten minutes, and for twenty\nminutes over a blast lamp. Mix any of these\nwith pure melted. paraffin for use as a paint,\nand expose for a time to sunlight. The two\nformer yield a greenish phosphorescence in the\ndark, the latter a bluish light.\nMarine Paint.— ¥ov metals in salt water, red\nlead, 44 parts quicksilver, 24 parts thick tur-\npentine, 5f parts. Mix to proper consistency\nwith boiied linseed oil: Grind or rub the thick\nturpentine and quicksilver together until thor-\noughly amalgamated. Then grind this mixture\nwith the red lead and more boiled oil. Use as\nlittle oil as is necessary to make the paint lay\non well. A coat of oxide of iron paint may be\nused first to make the marine paint adhere\nfirmly.\nMetals, to Paint,— Paint frequently peels off\nwhen exposed to the weather. If the metal is\nslightly corroded by a solution of copper sul-\nphate slightly acidulated with nitric acid.\nAfter standing an hour or so, wash, dry and\npaint.\nProof against Hot Water.— Clean the metal\nwith turpentine or benzine. Put on two coats\nof a mixture of white lead, spirits of turpen-\ntine and carriage varnish. Follow immediately\nwith a thick coat of carriage varnish and white\nlead\nPaints* Mixing. In mixing paints, observe\nthat for outdoor work you must use princi-\npally or wholly boiled oil, unless it be for the\ndecorative part of houses, etc.; then mix as for\nindoor work. For indoor work use linseed oil,\nturpentine and a little drier, observing that\nthe less oil the less will be the gloss, and that\nfor flatted white, etc., the color being ground\nin oil, will scarcely require any further addi-\ntion of that article, as the object is to have it\ndull. The best driers are ground litharge and\nsugar of lead the former for dark and middle\ntints, and the latter for light ones.\nPaint, Mixing Oil Colors.— In mixing differ-\nent colored paints to produce any desired tint,\nit is best to have the principal ingredient thick,\nand add to it the other paints thinner. In the\nfollowing list of the combinations of colors re-\nquired to produce a required tint, the first\nnamed color is the principal ingredient, and\nthe others follow in the order of their import-\nance. Thus, in mixing a limestone tint, white\nis the principal ingredient and red the color of\nwhich least is needed, etc., the exact propor-\ntions of each depending on the shade of color\nrequired.\nList of compound colors, showing the simple\ncolors which produce them\nBuff— White, yellow ocher, red.\nChestnut— Ked, black, yellow.\nChocolate— Raw umber, red, black.\nClarefr^Tied, umber, black.\nCopper— Red, yellow, black.\nDove— White, vermilion, blue, yellow.\nDrab— White, yellow ocher, red, black.\nFawn— White, yellow, red.\nFlesh— White, yellow ocher, vermilion.\nFreestone— Red, black, yellow ocher, white.\nFrench Gray— White, Prussian blue, lake.\nGray— White lead, black.\nGold— White, stone ocher, red.\nGreen Bronze— Chrome, green, black, yellow.\nGreen Pea— White, chrome green.\nLemon— White, chrome yellow.\nLimestone— White, yellow ocher, black, red.\nOlive— Yellow, blue, black, white.\nOrange— Yellow, red.\nPeach— White, vermilion.\nPearl— White, black, blue.\nPink— White, vermilion, lake.\nPurple— Violet, with more red and white.\nRose White, madder lake.\nSandstone— White, yellow ocher, black, red.\nSnuff— Yellow, Vandyke brown.\nViolet— Red, blue, white.\nDurable Paint for Outdoor Work.— Grind pow-\ndered charcoal in linseed oil, with sufficient\nlitharge as a drier. Thin for use with boiled\nlinseed oil.\nPottery Paints.— Paints for pottery are di-\nvided into: 1. Underglaze, gioss oven colors or\ncouieurs de grand feu, a*s they are usually\nlabeled.\n2. Hard kiln, for medium heat, or couieurs\nde demigrand feu.\n3 Regular kiln or couieurs de mouffle or-\ndinaire. The Lacroix colors are recommended\nby Janvier.\nTo make paint stick to bright metal tin roofs,\nsand paper the metal.\nRubber Paint.— (Matthews.) An extremely\nendurable paint may be made by first macerat-\ning rubber in any of the solvents until of a\npasty consistency, next dissolving it in linseed\noil heated until the solvent is evaporated, and\nthen mixing in by grinding a proportionate\nquantity of graphite.\nSilicate Paints.— I. When the surface to be\npainted is of a mineral nature, such as the\nexterior of a house, the pigments may be\nmixed with a vehicle consisting chiefly of\nwater glass, or soda, or potash silicate. This\nmethod of painting requires some care, and a\nknowledge of the chemical nature of the pig-\nments used. Some colors arc completely de-\nstroyed by the alkali contained in the water\nglass.. Among those pigments which are not\naltered by the alkali may be mentioned lime\ncarbonate, baryta white, zinc white, cadmium\nyellow, Naples yellow, baryta chromate,\nchrome red, red ultramarine, blue ultrama-\nrine, cobalt blue, cobalt green, chrome green,,\nivory black. When a wail is to be painted, it\nshould first be prepared with a mortar com-\nposed of pure fat lime and clean sharp sand.\nThe water used should also be free from saline\nimpurities, as these might subsequently efflo-\nresce and destroy the surface of the paint.\nWhen the surface of this plaster is dry, a weak\nsolution of water glass should be applied, and\nthe operation repeated several times.\n2. Dilute silicate of soda solution until it\nworks well with the brush, and add dry color-\ning matter, such as will not be decomposed by\nthe chemical. Ochers, Venetian red, smalts,\numbers and siennas may be employed.\nSkins, Paint, to Remove.— To V\\ lb. of sal soda,\nadd y± gal. of rain water. The skins on the top\nof the paint can be made to be of use again\nby covering them with this mixture, and allow-\ning them to soak about six days. Those who\nare doing a heavy business in paints can save\nmany dollars by this easy process. Oil should\nbe added to reduce the mixture to a proper\nconsistence for use.\nSmell of Paint, to Remove.— L Place a vessel\nof lighted charcoal in the room, and thrown on\nit 2 or 3 handfuis of juniper berries; shut the\nwindows, the chimney, and the door close;\ntwenty-four hours afterward the room may","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0378.jp2"},"375":{"fulltext":"Paints.\n303\nPaper.\nbe opened, when it will be found that the sickly,\nunwholesome smell will be entirely gone.\n2. Plunge a handful of hay into a pail of\nwater, and let it stand in the room newly\npainted.\nStacks, Paint for.— I. Dissolve asphaltum in\nturpentine with the application of a gentle\nheat. Use when cold. Apply with a brush.\n2. Paint the stack with thin coal tar mixed\nwith finely ground plumbago. Make of the\nconsistency of ordinary paint.\nStencil Paints.— Take shellac, 2 oz.; borax, 2\noz.; water, 25 oz.; gum arabic, 2 oz.; lampblack,\na sufficiency. Boil the borax and shellac in\nwater till they are dissolved, and withdraw\nfrom the fire. When the solution has become\ncold, complete 25 oz. with water, and add lamp-\nblack enough to bring the preparation to a\nsuitable consistence. When it is to be used\nwith a stencil, it must be made thicker than\nwhen it is to be applied with a marking brush.\nThe above gives a black ink; for red, substitute\nVenetian red for lampblack; for blue, ultra-\nmarine; and for green, a mixture of ultra-\nmarine and chrome yellow.\nStoves, Sample, Paint for.— Paint the stove\nwith paint made of powdered black lead and\nlinseed oil, and polish in the ordinary way when\ndry. It may be left out in all kinds of weather\nwithout injury to the polish.\nTransparent Paints.— It in a position to coat\nthe glass before putting in frame, excellent ef-\nfects may be got by using ordinary shellac\nvarnish, made with bleached shellac, tinted\nwith aniline dye. The glass must be slightly\nwarmed before applying the varnish. Ninety\nper cent, alcohol should be used for dis-\nsolving the shellac and the powdered, not\nliquid, aniline colors. Sufficient of the color\nmust be added to the varnish to give the re-\nquired tint. One part of shellac to 8 parts of\nspirit is a good proportion. Methylated spirit\nwill do. The varnish shouid be poured on and\nplaced evenly over the glass, not painted on,\nand the superfluous quantity returned to the\nDottle.\nTungsten Paints.— The mineral colors from\ntungsten are obtained by decomposing soluble\ntungstates by means of salts of the metals\nyielding insoluble phosphates. The tungstate\nof nickel produces a light green, tungstate of\nchromium a dark gray, tungstate of cobalt a\nviolet or indigo blue, and tungstate of barium\na bright white color. Tungstic acid alone gives\na fine light greenish yellow. All these colors\nmay be employed for water or oil color paints;\nthe last is a really desirable and probably quite\nunchangeable color.\nVehicle for Color.— One oz. of borax, 2 oz. of\nshellac, 1 pt. of water. Boil a few minutes, stir\nwith a piece of wood; or 1 oz. of liquid ammo-\nnia, 2 oz. shellac, 1 pt. of water. Add more or\nless shellac, as may be required.\nVessels^ Paint for, Submarine Works, etc.—\nConcentrated solution of 160 lb. potash; grape\nsugar, 80 lb.; add a solution of 320 lb. sulphate\nof copper. When this solution is heated a pre-\ncipitate of hydrated oxide of copper is formed;\nthis is filtered, carefully dried, and mixed with\n634 lb. 75$ carbolic acid. Heat the mass and add\nabout 9)4 gal. crude linseed oil. When this\npaint is to be used, reduce with linseed oil. It\nis said to be poisonous to animal and vegetable\nbodies depositing themselves on vessels.\nVitr-ifiable Paints.— The coloring matter is\nmixed with a flux in such a way that there is\nno chemical union with it. On heating the\nflux melts and envelops the coloring matter\nand glues it firmly to the body of the ware.\nThe following are some of the requisites of a\ngood vitrifiable paint: l.They must adhere firm-\nly. 2. They must melt at a known tempera-\nture. 3. They must undergo no chemical\nchange either from water or the gases of the\nair. 4. They must have a gloss after being fired;\n5. Their contraction and expansion must be\nthe same as the body. Great attention has\nbeen paid to the manufacture of these paints\nin Europe, and these paints possess all the\nqualities noted above, and they will prove the\nmost economical to use in the end.\nToys, Innoxious Color for Painting.— White\nfine chalk, 6 parts; calcined magnesia (thor-\noughly calcined), 3 parts. Add a few drops of\nindigo solution.\nWhite Oil Paint, Substitute for.— A substitute\nfor white oil paint may be made as follows:\nFour qt. of skim milk, 1 lb. of fresh slakeJ\nlime, 12 oz. of linseed oil, 4 oz. of white Bur-\ngundy pitch, 6 lb. of Spanish white, to be mixed\nas follows: The lime to be slaked in water, ex-\nposed to the air, mixed in about J4 of the milk;\nthe oil, in which the pitch must be previously\ndissolved, to be added a little at a time, then\nthe rest of the milk, and afterward the Spanish\nwhite. This quantity is sufficient for more\nthan fifty square yards covered with two\ncoats.\nWhite Paint for Metallic Surfaces.— Oil paints\nused on metallic surfaces exposed to heat\nfrequently turn yellow. If instead of oil so-\ndium silicate be used no change of color will\nbe noticed. Zinc white mixed with soluble\nglass of from 40° to 50° B., to the consistency\nof ordinary paint, makes an excellent paint f or-\nmetals.\nWindow Paint.— Mix with white lead, boiled\noil or varnish, and a small quantity of driers\n(no turps, which hardens for the time, being a\nvolatile oil, and therefore objectionable in\nthis case); paint this over the glass thinly, and\nstipple it. If you have not a proper brush,\nmake a large pledget of cotton wool or tow,\ncover it with a clean bit of linen rag, and\nquickly dab it over the paint.\nGolden Yellow.— Mix white with extract of\nsaffron q. s., to give the desired shade. When\ndry these colors should be coated with a light\nmastic varnish.\nZinc, to Prepare for Painting.— dissolve 1 part\nof chloride of copper, 1 part of nitrate of cop-\nper, and 1 part of sal ammoniac, in 64 parts of\nwater, and add I part of commercial hydro-\nchloric acid. Brush the zinc over with this,\nwhich gives it a deep black; leave to dry twenty-\nfour hours, when any oil color will firmly\nadhere to it, and withstand both heat and\ndamp.\nPaintings, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nPaintings, Varnishes for. See Var-\nnishes.\nPalm Oil. See Oils.\nPanacea.— A term applied by the ancients\nto those remedies supposed to be capable of\ncuring ail diseases. Unfortunately for man-\nkind, no such a medicine exists. The name is\nstill applied to some quack medicines.\nPancreatin, to Prepare.— Cut the fresh\npancreas of the pig, free it from all foreign\nmatter and digest in ether, distill the ether\nfrom the filtered liquid and the remainder will\nbe the pancreatin.\nPaper.— A number of receipts for making\npaper are given first, followed by receipts for\nmiscellaneous papers.\nSelection and Assortment of Rags.— The selec-\ntion and assortment of the raw material form\na very important branch of the paper trade.\nRags are brought to the mill in an unsorted\ncondition, and are called mixed rags.\nThe system of assorting and classifying rags\nin common use in this country, and the distin-\nguishing mark given to each sort, cause con-\nsiderable confusion to the tyro in the trade, and\nrather retard than facilitate the work of this\ndepartment, which ought to be conducted on\nprinciples readily comprehended and easily im-\npressed upon the memory.\nThe superiority of the system in vogue on\nthe Continent— its greater simplicity and there-\nfore efficacy, and the great saving of tune (a","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0379.jp2"},"376":{"fulltext":"Paper.\n364\nPaper.\nmost important item in the economical work-\ning of a factory) effected by it.\nThe rags are known by number as follows\nNo. 1 Rags— White linen without seams, fine,\nclean.\nNo. 2 Rags— White linen with seams, fine, clean.\nNo. 3 Rags— White linen with seams, second\nquality.\nNo. 4 Rags— White linen with seams, third qual-\nity.\nThe three last mentioned qualities are easily\ndistinguished, for as the quality deteriorates\nthe rags become thicker, and, the thicker the\nrags, the greater the quantity of sheive they\ncontain.\nNo. 5 Rags— Blue linen without seams, first\nquality.\nNo. 6 Rags— Blue linen with seams, second\nquaiity.\nNo. 7 Rags— Blue linen with seams, third qual-\nity.\nNo. 8 Rags— Good linen, seconds.\nNo. 9 Rags— Coarse linen, seconds.\nNo. 10 Rags— White cotton, fine, first quality.\nNo. 11 Rags— White cotton, second quality.\nNo. 12 Rags— Colored cotton, third quality.\nNo. 13 Rags— Sailcloth without seams, first\nquality.\nNo. 14 Rags— Sailcloth with seams, second qual-\nity.\nNo. 15 Rags— Fine hemp bagging, good, clean.\nNo. 16 Rags— Good hemp bagging.\nNo. 17 Rags— Hemp rope, fine, clean.\n.No. 18 Rags— Hemp rope, good, clean.\nNo. 19 Rags— Hemp rope, free from tar, third\nquality.\nNo. 20 Rags— Broke from all the above except\nthe rope.\nThe simplicity and efficiency of sorting the\ndifferent rags by this method of numbers are\nevident; the workpeople having only to know\nthat the higher the number is, the coarser is\nthe quality of the rags. No. 1 is the equivalent\nfor S. P. F. F. F.\nBlending or arranging the rags for the\ndifferent stuffs suitable for the various quali-\nties of paper to be made is a work of con-\nsiderable difficulty, and requires the great-\nest care. For example, a paper of a\ncertain quality is desired; the difficulty is to\nblend that porportion of cotton with linen rags\nwhich will produce a paper tough, strong, well\n;sized and possessing those elastic qualities\nwhich will permit it to be folded into any shape\nwithout showing signs of cracking, as is es-\npecially necessary in book papers.\nThe most convenient, and at the same time\nmost efficacious mode of procedure is to form\nthe various rags into stuffs, such as No. 1 stuff,\nNo. 3 stuff. No. 4 stuff, No. 5 stuff, and stuff\ntspecially prepared for tissue and copying pa-\npers, composed as follows\nNo. 1 Stuff.\nNo. 2 Rags 12001b.\nNo. 5 Rags 2800 lb.\n4000 lb.\nNo. 3 Stuff.\nNo. 4 Rags 400 lb.\nNo. 6 Rags 1200 ib.\nNo. 8 Rags. 2400 lb.\n4000 lb.\nThe above No. 1 and No. 3 stuffs are for\nspecially strong papers.\nNo. 4 Stuff.\nNo. 7 Rags 1600 lb.\nNo. 9 Rags 2800 lb.\nNo. 20 Broke 400 lb.\n4800 lb.\nIf the broke accummulates, a larger propor-\ntion can be used in making colored papers;\notherwise the above quantity is sufficient.\nRags Nos. 10, 11 and 12 are specially reserved\nfor blending, for thick papers, or for printings\nof a high class. Nos. 13, 14, 15 and 16 sup-\nply the place of any of the num-\nbers for which they are suited. No. 1 can be\ndrawn upon in the event of a special paper\nbeing desired.\nNo. 5 Stuff.\nNo. 6 Rags 16001b.\nNo. 8 Rags 24001b.\n40001b.\nThis No. 5 stuff is principally used for mixing\nwit h the rope stuff for tissue and copying\npapers, in proportions which will be given in\nthe receipts for thin papers.\nRope Stuff.\nNo. 17 Ropes 2600 lb.\nNo. 18 Ropes 1200 lb.\nNo. 19 Ropes 200 lb.\n40001b.\nIt may be mentioned that the qualities of\npaper on the Continent are known by numbers,\nNo. 1 being the highest quality of writings and\nprintings. The different qualities of paper that\ncan be made from the various stuffs are as fol-\nlows:\nFrom No. 1 stuff, extra superfine, or No. 1\npapers.\nFrom No. 3 stuff, superfine and fine papers.\nFrom No. 4 Stuff, fines, fourths and colored\npapers.\nFrom No. 5 stuff, thin papers; also used for\nmixing with the rope stuff, for cigarette, copy-\ning and tissue papers.\nClassification of Home and Foreign Bags.— Ac-\ncording to the method generally adopted with\ntheir distinguishing names. Superfines, S.P.F.\nF.F., S.P.F.F., S.P.F., Dark Fines, Gray or\nGreen Linen, New Pieces, Sailcloth, F.F., L.F.\nX., C.L.F.X., C.C.L.F.X., Fines, Seconds,\nThirds, Cords, both dark and light, Outshorts,\nPrints and the various qualities of hemp and\njute bagging.\nSuperfines consist of superfine new white\nshirt cuttings.\nS.P.P.F.F. consists of extra superfine white\nlinen, first quality.\nS.P.F.F. consists of superfine white linen, sec-\nond quality.\nS.P.F. consists of fine white linen, third quality.\nDark Fines consist of fine white cotton rags,\nwell adapted for blotting paper of a good\nqualitv.\nGreen Linen consists of fine unbleached linen\ncuttings.\nNew Pieces consist of fine bleached linen cut-\ntings.\nSailcloth consists of canvas (worn) and new\ncuttings.\nF.F. consists of coarse Russian linen rags, first\nquality.\nL. F.X. consists of coarse Russian linen rags,\nsecond quality.\nC.L.F.X. consists of coarse Russian linen rags,\nthird quality.\nC.C.L.F.X. consists of coarse Russian linen rags,\nfourth quality.\nReceipts for High Class Papers.— In making\npapers of superior quality, considerable experi-\nence and skill are necessary in selecting and\nblending the material. The following receipts\nwill produce papers, smooth, strong, tough,\nand possessing elasticity of feel and clearness\nof color\n1. Extra Superfine Cream.— For 300 lb. dry\npaper:\nS.P.F.F., J4; Dark Fines, J4.\nGreen linen, }4; New Pieces, V±.\n4 oz. ultramarine, marked B.B.A.C.\n1H gill cochineal; 40 lb. pearl hardening.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0380.jp2"},"377":{"fulltext":"Paper.\n365\nPaper.\n2. Superfine Cream.— For 300 lb. dry paper\nDark fines, 34; S.P.F.\nSuperfines, 34; Spanish esparto, fine, 34-\n6oz. ultramarine, B.B.A.C.\n1 gill cochineal; 40 lb. pearl hardening-.\n14 lb. dry starch.\n3. Fine Creams.— For 300 lb. dry paper:\nMedium Spanish esparto, 34\nFines, 34; F.F., 34.\n7 oz. ultramarine, marked B. B.R. V.\n13^ gill cochineal.\n4. Extra Superfine Commercial Post.— Ani-\nmal sized.— For 300 lb. dry paper:\nS.P.F.F.F., 34; dark fines, M-\nNew pieces, 34-\n3 gal. engine size; 5 lb. pure alum.\n5oz. ultramarine, B.B.A.C.\n1 pt. cochineal; J4 oz. carmine.\n40 lb. pearl hardening.\n5. Superfine Commercial Post.— Animal Sized.\n—For 300 lb. dry paper:\nS.P.F.F., J^; dark fines, 34; supers, 34.\n3gal. engine size; 6^. pure alum.\n6oz. ultramarine, B.B.A.C.\n134 gill cochineal; 1 gill archil.\n14 lb. starch; 40 lb. pearl hardening.\n6. Fine Cream Commercial Post.— Animal\nSized.— For 30U lb. dry paper:\nF.F. russian rags, 34; seconds, 34-\nNo. 2 Spanish esparto, 34-\n6 oz. ultramarine, B.B.R.V.; 1 gill magenta.\n6 gal. size; 10 lb. alum.\n7. Fourth Creams.— For 300 lb. dry paper:\nSecond fines, 34; F.F., M-\nNo. 2 Spanish esparto, 34«\n6 pails size; 30 lb. alum.\n9oz. ultramarine, B.B.R.V.; 2 gills archil.\n8. Fourth Creams.— For 300 lb. dry paper\nFine oran esparto, V%.\nTunis esparto, H F. F. rags, 34-\nNine oz. ultramarine, B.B.R.V.\nTwo gills magenta 4 lb. dry starch.\n9. Superior Quality of Drawing Cartridge.—\nNo coloring matter\nCartridge, 34; good canvas, 34; good seconds,\n10. Extra Superfine Post Paper.— For 300 lb.\ndry paper\nSupers; 34 green linen, 34.\nNew pieces, 34 S.P.F.F.F., 34.\nThree oz. ultramarine, A.C.; 2 oz. carmine.\n(The above is the highest class of post paper\nmade.)\n11. Extra Superfine Blue, High Color.— For\n300 lb. dry paper\nS.P.F., 34 dark fines, J£.\nFine Spanish esparto, 34-\nNine and a half Id. ultramarine, B.B.R.V.\nHalf lb. magenta lake.\n12. Card Paper, Superfine, Animal Sized.— For\n300 lb. dry paper\nS.P.F., 34 fines, J4 seconds, M-\nThree oz. ultramarine, B.B.A.C.\nOne gill archil 30 lb. pearl hardening.\n13. Superfine Cream Envelope Paper, Animal\nSized.— For 300 lb. dry paper\nS.P.F., 34 seconds, 34 new pieces, 34«\nThree oz. ultramarine, B.B.A.C.\nOne and a half pt. cochineal 121b. starch.\n14. Superfine High Blue— For 300 lb. dry\npaper\nS.P.F., 34 medium Spanish esparto, 34.\nScotch fines, 34-\nTwelve lb. ulramarine, marked A.\nThree-quarter lb. magenta lake.\n15. Fine High Blue.— For 300 lb. dry paper\nF.F., 34 fine Oran esparto, 34-\nEight lb. ultramarine, marked B.B.R.V.\nHalf lb. magenta lake.\nColored Papers.— 16. Deep Lilac— For 250 lb.,\ndry paper\nNo. 3 stuff 5 pails size 20 lb. alum.\nThirty oz. violet methyl, marked B.B.B.\nHalf oz. eosine, marked A.\n17. Deep Green.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 3 stuff 5 pails size 20 lb. alum.\nTwenty-two lb. silk green paste, extra fine.\n(This is a beautiful clear green.)\n18. Deep Lilac— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff 20 lb. alum 4 pails size.\nEight oz. diamond f uchsine 3 oz. aniline blue.\nFifty lb. straw pulp.\n19. Pale Green.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff, full bleached 4 pails size 20 lb-\nalum.\nThree-quarter lb. bichromate, ten minutes\nlater.\nTwo and one-quarter lb. sugar of lead, ten min-\nutes later.\nFifteen oz. Paris blue, dissolved in hot water,\nadding 34 gill of sulphuric acid.\n20. Green, Medium Deep Shade. For 250 lb.\ndry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 60 lb. mechanical wood pulp; 5;\npails size.\nTwenty lb. alum 234 lb- bichromate, fifteen\nminutes later.\nSix lb. sugar of lead, fifteen minutes later 1*4\nlb. Paris blue.\n21. Green.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff 60 lb. mechanical wood pulp.\nTwo and one-half lb. bichromate, fifteen min-\nutes later.\nSix lb. sugar of lead, fifteen minutes later.\nSeven oz. Paris blue 4 pails size 15 lb. alum.\n22. Pale Green.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff, full bleached 60 lb. wood pulp.\nThree oz. bichromate; 6 oz sugar of lead.\nFour pails size 15 lb. alum 31b. Paris blue.\n23. Green, Deep Clear Tint.— For 250 lb. dry\npaper\nNo. 3 stuff; 134 lb. bichromate.\nThree lb. sugar of lead, fifteen minutes later.\nTwo lb. Paris blue, ten minutes later.\nFive pails size 20 lb. alum.\n24. Deep Orange.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff 40 lb. wood pulp 4 pails size.\nTwenty lb. alum 6 lb. bichromate 18 lb. sugar\nof lead.\nTwenty-five lb. Venetian red; 50 lb. straw\npulp.\n25. Skin Color.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff 60 lb. wood pulp 4 pails size.\nTwenty lb. alum 9J4 lb. green copperas.\nTen and one-half lb. crystal soda 8 oz. bichro-\nmate.\nOne and one-half lb. sugar of lead,\n26. Deep Olive.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff 60 lb. wood pulp 4 pails size.\nFifteen lb. alum 2 lb. green copperas.\nTwo lb. crystal soda 234 lb. Venetian red.\n27. Buff —For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff 60 lb. yellow wood.\nFour pails size 20 lb. alum 13 lb. yellow\nocher.\nTen oz. Venetian red 1 gill Brazil wood dye.\n28. Nankeen Tissue.— For 200 lb. dry paper\nNos. 17 and 18 rope stuffs, 34 canvas, 34.\nThree lb. potash 3 lb. green copperas.\nTwo lb. crystal soda.\n29. Lilac Tissue, Deep Shade.— For 200 lb. dry\npaper\nNos. 17 and 18 rope stuffs, 14 No. 5 stuff, V 2\nEight oz. aniline blue 3 oz. diamond fuchine.\nTwo oz. violet methyl, R.R.R.R. brand.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0381.jp2"},"378":{"fulltext":"Paper.\n366\nPaper.\n30. White Tissue.— For 200 lb. dry paper\nNos. 17 and 18 rope stuffs, y 2 No. 5 stuff, y\nFive oz. ultramarine, B.B.A.C.; 2 gills Brazil\nwood dye.\n31. Blue Tissue.— For 200 lb. dry paper:\nRope stuff, )4 good sailcloth, J^.\nTwo lb. ultramarine, B.B.A.C.; 5 gills Brazil\nwood dye.\n32. Fine Gray Writings.— For 250 lb. dry\npaper\nNo. 4 stuff, full bleached 6 pails size.\nTwenty-five lb. alum, 12 oz. bichromate, 2 lb.\nsugar of lead, to be dissolved together in one\npail, and put into the engine whiie hot.\nThree oz. Paris blue, half an hour later.\nFour oz. logwood extract.\n33. Fine Gray Writings.— For 250 lb. dry\npaper\nNo. 4 stuff, full bleached 6 pails size.\nTwenty-five lb. alum 15 oz. bichromate 2)4\nlb. sugar of lead.\nSix oz. Paris blue, half an hour later.\nSeven oz. logwood extract.\n34. Fine Gray Writings.— For 250 lb. dry\npaper\nNo. 4 stuff, full bleached.\nThree lb. ultramarine, B.B.R. V.; 2 lb. Venetian\nred.\nFour lb. yellow ocher 6 pail? size 20 lb. alum.\n35. Superfine Gray Writings.— For 250 lb. dry\npaper\nNo. 3 stuff, full bleached.\nFour lb. ultramarine, B.B.A.C; 1 lb. bichro-\nmate\nOne and a half lb. sugar of lead 3 lb. Venetian\nred.\nSix pails size 25 lb. alum.\n36. Catechu Brown Wrapping.— For 250 lb.\ndry paper\nHemp bagging, )4 No. 4 stuff,\nSeven pails catechu; 5 pails size 15 lb. alum.\nThree lb. bichromate.\n37. Catechu Brown, Deep Color.— For 150 lb.\nDry Paper\nNo. 4 stuff, unbleached; 3 pails size; 10 lb.\nalum.\nThree pails catechu 2 lb. green copperas.\nThree lb. bichromate.\n38. Aniline Blue, Deep Shade.— For 250 lb. dry\npaper\nNo. 4 stuff, full bleached 5 pails size 20 lb.\nalum.\nFour oz. aniline blue oz. diamond f uchine.\n39. Aniline Blue.— For 250 lb. Paper\nNo. 4 stuff, full bleached 5 pails size 15 lb.\nalum.\nThree oz. aniline blue oz. diamond f uchine.\n40. Aniline Blue, Deep Color.— For 250 lb. dry\npaper\nNo. 4 stuff, full bleached 4 pails size.\nFifteen lb. alum 2 oz. aniline blue.\nOne-sixth oz. diamond fuchine 6 oz. Berlin\nblue.\n41. Lilac— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff, full bleached 5 pails size 20 lb.\nalum.\nThree oz. aniline blue y% oz. diamond fuchine.\n42. Deep Lilac— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff, full bleached 5 pails size 20 lb.\nalum.\nFour oz. aniline blue 1 oz. diamond fuchine.\n43. Deep Aniline Blue.-- For 250 lb. dry paper:\nNo. 3 stuff, full bleached 6 pails size 20 lb.\nalum.\nFour and one half oz. aniline blue; oz. dia-\nmond fuchine.\n44. Deep Lilac— For 250 lb. dry paper:\nNos. 3 and 4 stuffs, half and half 4 pails size.\nFifteen lb. alum 2 oz. aniline blue.\nTwo oz. diamond fuchine 3^ oz. Paris blue.\n45. Berlin Blue.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff, half bleached 5 pails size.\nTwenty lb. alum oz. fuchine 5 lb. Paris\nblue.\n46. Deep Aniline Blue.— For 250 lb. dry pa-\nper\nNo. 4 stuff, full bleached 5 pails size.\nTwenty lb. alum 9 lb. Paris blue.\nThree and one-half oz. aniline blue 3 oz. dia-\nmond fuchine.\n(The above blue presents a fine clear color, very\ndeep and uniform.)\n47. Venetian Red.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 3 stuff unbleached 50 lb. chemical wood\npulp.\nFour pails size; 15 lb. alum 601b. Venetian red.\nThree pts. Brazil wood dye.\n48. Fine Yellow Printings.— For 200 lb. dry\npaper\nSpanish esparto, J^; Oran esparto, y*,.\nTwo lb. bichromate; 41b. sugar of lead.\nThree pails size; 10 lb. alum.\n49. Deep Venetian Red.— For 200 lb. dry paper:\nNo. 4 stuff, unbleached; 5 pails size.\nTwenty lb. alum; 2}4 lb. yellow ocher.\nFifty lb. Venetian red; 3 pt. Brazil wood dye.\n50. Pink.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 5 pails size; 20 lb. alum.\nThree oz. diamond fuchine, dissolved in 300 oz.\nof boiling water, and strained through a fine\nflannel or silk bag.\n51. Deep Eosine Pink.— For 2501b. dry paper:\nNo. 3 stuff; 5 pails size; 20 lb. alum.\nTwelve oz. eosine, marked B. N., dissolved in\nboiling water, and strained through a flannel\nbag into the engine.\n52. Pale Eosine Pink.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 3 stuff; 5 pails size; 20 lb. alum.\nThree oz. eosine, marked B. N.\nOne-half oz. violet methyl. Strain into the\nengine.\n53. Eosine A, Deep Pink to Blood Red.— For\n250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 3 stuff, fuil bleached.\nThirteen oz. eosine, marked A; }4 oz. violet\nmethyl.\n(This is a deep pink of a beautiful shade.)\n54. Yellow Wrapping for Post Paper.— For\n250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 60 lb. mechanical wood pulp.\nTwo lb. bichromate of potash, fifteen minutes\nlater.\nFour lb. sugar of lead; 20 lb. alum; 4 pails size.\nFifty lb. straw pulp, by Lahosse s system.\n55. Yellow Printings.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff, half bleached.\nFifty lb. mechanical wood pulp.\nOne and a quarter lb. bichromate, twenty\nminutes later.\nThree-quarter lb. sugar of lead, half an hour\nlater.\nFifteen lb. alum; 3 pails size; 50 lb. straw pulp.\n56.— Yellow.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 4 lb. bichromate, twenty minutes\nlater.\nEight lb. sugar of lead, half an hour later.\nTwenty lb. alum; 6 pails size; 40 lb. straw pulp^\n57. Yellow.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 20 lb. mechanical wood pulp.\nTwo and a quarter lb. bichromate, twenty\nminutes later.\nSeven and a half lb. sugar of lead, half an hour\nlater.\nTwenty lb. alum; 4 pails size.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0382.jp2"},"379":{"fulltext":"Paper.\n367\nPaper.\n58. Yellow.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 40 lb mechanical wood pulp.\nFifteen lb. alum; 4 pails size; 5 lb. bichromate.\nEight lb. sugar of lead.\n59. Yellow.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 15 lb. alum; 4 pails size.\nOne and one-fourth lb. bichromate; 5 lb. sugar\nof lead.\n60. Yellow.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 40 lb. mechanical wood pulp.\nFifteen lb. alum 4 pails size 5 lb. bichro-\nmate.\nEleven lb. sugar of lead.\n61. Yellow Printings.— For 450 lb. dry paper\nTunis esparto, y^\\ No. 2 Spanish esparto, y%.\nTwenty lb. French ocher; 4 lb. dark English\nocher.\nEight lb. sugar of lead; 4*4 lb. bichromate.\nTwo lb. red chrome.\n62. Yellow Printings.— For 450 lb. dry paper:\nTunis esparto, Oran esparto,\nThree and one-half lb. bichromate; 7 lb. sugar\nof lead.\n63. Catechu Brown.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff, unbleached 4 pails size.\nTwenty lb. alum; 12 pails catechu.\nSix lb. bichromate; 31b. crystal soda.\n64. Catechu Brown.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff, half bleached; 4 pails size.\nFour pails catechu; 20 lb. alum; Wu, lb. bichro-\nmate.\n65. Catechu Brown.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. stuff, full bleached; \\y 2 lb. green copperas.\nFour pails size; 3 pails catechu; 20 lb. alum.\nThree and one-half lb. bichromate.\n66. Orange.— For 200 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 50 lb. yellow mechanical wood pulp.\nTwenty lb. orange mineral; V/% lb. Venetian\nred.\nFour pails size; 20 lb. alum.\n(The orange and the Venetian red must be\ncarefully strained through a fine wire or flan-\nnel bag.)\n67. Orange.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 601b. mechanical wood pulp.\nFifteen lb. alum; 4 pails size; 30 lb. orange min-\neral.\n68. Orange.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 60 lb. mechanical wood pulp.\nFifteen lb. alum; 4 pails size; 15 lb. orange min-\neral.\nOne lb. Venetian red.\n69. Orange.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 50 lb. mechanical wood pulp.\nTwelve lb. orange mineral; 15 lb. alum; 4 pails\nsize.\n70. Oi ange. For 250 lb. dry paper:\nNo. 4 stuff, only half bleached or gas bleached,\nand not potched.\nThree pails size; 15 lb. alum; 6 lb. bichromate.\nEight lb. sugar of lead; 60 lb. superfine orange.\n71. Venetian Red.— For 2501b. dry paper:\nNo. 4 stuff, half bleached; 2% lb. yellow ocher.\nForty-five lb. Venetian red; 20 lb. alum; 5 pails\nsize.\n72. Orange Yellow.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff, 40 lb. mechanical wood pulp.\nThree pails size; 15 lb. alum; 6 lb. bichromate.\nEight lb. sugar of lead; 25 lb. Venetian red.\nFifty lb. straw pulp.\n73. Yellow Wrapping.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff, unbleached.\nFifty lb. wood pulp, No. 2 quality; 4 pails size.\nTwenty lb. alum; 1Q}4 lb. sugar of lead, brown.\nEight lb. bichromate; 20 lb. Venetian red.\n74. Yellow Ocher, for Wrapping.— For 250 lb.\ndry paper\nNo. 4 stuff, unbleached.\nSixty lb. wood pulp, No. 2 quality; 4 pails size.\nFifteen lb. alum; 20 lb. yellow ocher.\nFive oz. Venetian red; 4 oz. magenta lake.\n75. Pale Orange.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 40 lb. wood pulp; 4 pails size.\nFifteen lb. alum; 15 lb. superfine orange.\n76. Gray.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff, half bleached; 4 pails size.\nTwenty lb. alum; 3 lb. green copperas.\nThree lb. crystal soda; 4 lb. yellow ocher, dark.\nFour lb. yellow ocher, light; 5 oz. Venetian\nred.\n77. Venetian Bed.— For 250 lb. dry paper.\nNo. 4 stuff; 40 lb. yellow wood pulp.\nFour pails size; 151b. alum; 48 lb. yellow ocher.\nFifty lb. Venetian red.\n(This is a beautiful deep Venetian red, princi-\npally used for the covers of serials.)\n78. Fawn.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 4 pails size; 20 lb. alum.\nTwo lb. green copperas; 2 lb. crystal soda.\nOne and a half lb. Venetian red.\n79. Fawn.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff; 20 lb. chemical wood pulp.\nFive oz. ultramarine; 1 lb. Venetian red.\nFour lb. yellow ocher, French.\n80. Deep Paris Blue.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff, half bleached; 4 pails size.\nTwenty lb. alum; 2 lb. logwood extract.\nSix lb. Berlin or Paris blue; 2 pints cochineal.\n81. Saturnine Bed.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 3 stuff; 4 pails size; 20 lb. alum.\nFifty lb. saturnine red; 5 lb. superfine orange.\n82. Chrome Orange.— For 300 lb. dry paper\nNo. 1 stuff, full bleached; 25 lb. alum.\nSix pails size; 56 lb chrome orange paste, No. 1.\n(This is a fine clear orange for a good quality\nof paper.)\n83. Soluble Brown.— For 250 lb. dry paper\nNo. 4 stuff, half bleached; 5 pails size.\nTwenty lb. alum; 15 lb. soluble brown.\n(This coloring matter must be carefully\nstrained into the engine. It is the best substi-\ntute for catechu dyed papers, and has all the\ncharacteristics of catechu, and also the advan-\ntage of being much cheaper.)\n84. Violet, Deep Shade.— For 250 lb. dry\npaper\nNo. 3 stuff, full bleached; 25 lb. alum.\nFive pails size; 6 lb. violet methyl, marked R. R.\nR.R.\nThree oz. blue methyl.\nColored Esparto Papers.\n85. Dark Yellow. -For 400 lb. dry paper\nFourteen lb. bichromate of potash.\nOne and three-quarters lb. sugar of lead, dis-\nsolved in 1 pail of hot water; strain into the\nengine through a flannel bag.\nTwo and one-half lb. green copperas, one hour\nlater; 25 lb. alum.\n86. Orange Yellow.— For 400 lb. dry paper\nOran esparto; V/% lb. bichromate.\nFifteen lb. brown sugar of lead, dissolved in 5\nEails of hot water; strain through a flannel\nag.\nOne quarter lb. Venetian red; 25 lb. alum; 7\npails size.\n87. Fine Deep Blue.— For 400 lb. dry paper:\nOran esparto; 1 lb. crystal soda.\nTen lb. prussiate of potash.\nThree lb. green copperas, dissolved in 4 pails of\nhot water.\nFour qt. iron liquor.\nOne oz. magneta, dissolved in one pail of hot\nwater.\nTwenty-five lb. alum.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0383.jp2"},"380":{"fulltext":"Paper.\n368\nPaper.\n88. Chocolate Brown.— For 400 lb. dry paper\nFour hundred lb. Oran esparto; 37 lb. Venetian\nred.\nThree lb. catechu; 5 lb. bluestone; 5 lb. green\ncopperas.\nFour lb. ultramarine; all one hour apart.\nTwenty lb. alum; 7 pails size.\n89. Fine Rose Tint.— For 400 lb. dry paper\nMedium Spanish esparto, J^; good Oran es-\nparto, y 2\nTwo oz. eosine, marked A, dissolved in one pail\nof boiling water, and strained through a\nflannel bag.\n90. Rose Tint.— For 400 lb. dry paper\nFour hundred lb. Oran esparto, 14 lb. Venetian\nred.\nOne lb. chrome yellow; 20 lb. alum.\n91. Straw Tint.— For 400 lb. dry paper\nFour hundred lb. Oran esparto; 1}4 lb. bichro-\nmate of potash.\nThree lb. white sugar of lead, dissolved in one\npail of hot water.\nQuarter lb. ultramarine; 1V^ pt. iron liquor.\n92. Amber.— For 400 lb. dry paper\nFour hundred lb. Oran esparto.\nHalf lb. chrome yellow, mixed in the engine\none hour.\nOne pt. iron liquor; 20 lb. alum; 6 pails size.\n93. Light Buff .—For 400 lb. dry paper\nFour hundred lb. Oran esparto 4 lb. green\ncopperas.\nFour oz. sugar of lead; 3 lb. bichromate of pot-\nash.\nFifteen lb. alum; 5 pails size.\n94. Orange Buff.— For 400 lb. dry paper\nFour hundred lb. Oran esparto; 6 lb. bichro-\nmate of potash.\nEight lb. sugar of lead; 14 lb. Venetian red.\nTwenty lb. alum; 6 pails size.\n95. Fine Amber Writings.— For 300 lb. dry\npaper\nMedium Spanish esparto, \\i\\ F. F. rags, M;\nthirds, *4-\nSix and a half oz. nitrate of lead; 3 oz. bichro-\nmate of potash.\nEleven oz. Venetian red, strained through a\nsilk bag.\nThirty lb. alum; 8 pails size.\n—Practical Papermaker.\nAmerican Combinations for Coloring. Hof-\nmann gives the following examples of the com-\nbinations of colors which have been adopted\nby American manufacturers\n1. Yellow gold envelope of fine quality is\nmade of bichromate of potash, 10 lb.; nitrate of\nlead, 181b.; orange mineral, 561b.; porous alum,\n30 lb.; each substance being separately dis-\nsolved and added to 400 lb. pulp.\n2. Orange red gold envelope.— Bichromate of\npotash, 7 lb.; nitrate of lead, 10}^ lb.; orange\nmineral, 60 lb.; porous alum, 20 lb. Those sub-\nstances are dissolved separately and added to\n4001b. of pulp.\n3. Buff envelope of fine deep shade is made\nfrom bichromate of potash, 3 lb.; nitrate of\nlead, 5 lb.; orange mineral, 10 lb.; American\nocher, 20 lb.; porous alum, 301b.; some half stuff\nof red jute bagging; for 400 lb. of pulp.\n4. Tea color is made from a decoction of quer-\ncitron bark, the liquid being poured into the\nengine, and 2 lb. of copperas in solution are\nadded for every gallon of the bark extract.\nA little ultramarine may be used to brighten\nthe color.\n5. Drab.— Venetian red, well washed, added to\na pulp of tea color made as above will give a\nfine drab.\n6. Brown.— Is composed of several colors, or a\nvery fine dark green tea color brown, contain-\ning tea, buff, drab and ink gray, may be made\nof: Quercitron bark, liquid, 15 gal.; bicarbon-\nate of soda, 2 lb.; Venetian red, 4 lb.; extract\nof nutgalls, 2)4 lb.; copperas, 18 lb.; porous alum„\n30 lb. The above proportions are for 400 lb. of\npulp.\nMiscellaneous Papers.— Adhesive Paper.— Use\na good quality of mucilage (see Mucilages) and\npaint the paper, which should be stretched with\nthis, and when dry cut up for use. Paper may\nbe gummed on both sides; affords a very con-\nvenient mode of mounting pictures, etc.\nPaper, to Bronze. See Bronzing.\nPaper Bowls, to Make.— Get a block of wood\nturned to the size and shape of your bowls,,\nand with a stem to serve as a mount. This,\nmust be well covered with French chalk. Take\nyour sheets of paper, well wetted, paste them\nand mould round the block one after the other\nuntil requisite thickness is obtained. You can-\nnot easily reduce the paper to pulp, and if you\ndid you would then want hydraulic pressure to\nmould the bowls.\nPaper Canoes. Sheets of stout manila passed\nthrough a hot bath of aqueous solution of zinc\nchloride, at 75° B., pressed strongly together\nand then soaked in dilute aqueous soda solu-\ntion containing a small amount of glycerine,,\ncohere to form a strong, stiff, waterproof board\nadmirably adapted to the construction of small\nboats. Single sheets of paper passed quickly\nthrough the zinc chloride bath, pressed and\nwashed and dried, are waterproof, and may be\notherwise joined to form waterproof boards,\nby any suitable cement.\nCarbolic Acid Paper. 1. Parafnne, 9 parts;\ncarbolic acid, 3 parts; stearine, V/i parts. Melt\nand apply with a brush to the paper. It is used\nfor disinfecting purposes.\n2. Melt 5 parts of stearine at a gentle heat,\nand stir in 2 parts of carbolic acid; then add 5\nparts of melted paraffine and stir the whole\nwell together until cold. When required for\nuse melt the mixture over a water bath and\nbrush it over the surface of the paper with a\nsoft brush.\nCarbon Paper.— Melt 10 parts lard, 1 part of\nwax and mix with a sufficient quantity of fine\nlampblack. Saturate unglazed paper with this,\nremove excess and press.\nCharred Paper, to Preserve. CoDodion is\npoured over tbe charred paper. In a few\nminutes this dries, and a tough transparent\ncoating is produced, through which the print-\ning, etc., can be seen. Bank notes and other\ndocuments charred by fire have been thus suc-\ncessfully treated.— Scient. Amer.\nPaper Chemically Prepared. 1. Chemically\nprepared paper for autographic and automatic\ntelegraphy is prepared by soaking it in either\nof the following solutions: Nitrate of ammonia,\n2 lb.; ferricyanide of potassium, y oz.; gum\ntragacanth, 2 oz.; glycerine, 2 oz.; water, Yz gal.\nOr, iodide of potassium, lb.; bromide of po-\ntassium, 1 lb.; starch, y% oz.; water, 2 qt.\n2. Iodide potassium lb.\nBromide potassium 2 lb.\nDextrine or starch 1 oz.\nDistilled water 1 gal.\nPaper, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nCopying Paper.— The following is commu-\nnicated to the Polytechn. Notizblatt by E.\nDieterich, in regard to the method he employs\nfor making the copying paper which has ob-\ntained so good a reputation in Germany The\nmanufacture may be divided into two parts,\nviz., the production of the color and the ap-\nplication of the same to the paper. For blue\npaper, Dieterich uses exclusively the blue color\nknown as Paris blue, as covering better than\nany other mineral color. Ten kgs. of the same\nare coarsely ground and mixed with 20 kgs. of\nordinary olive oil 0*25 kg. of glycerine is then\nadded. This mixture is for a week exposed in\na drying room to a temperature of 40° to 50° C,\nand then ground as fine as possible in a paint\nmill. The glycerine softens the hard paint, and\ntends to make it more easily diffusible.\nThen Dieterich melted 0*5 kg. of yellow wax\nI","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0384.jp2"},"381":{"fulltext":"Paper.\n369\nPaper.\nwith 7*5 kgs. of ligroine, and added to this 3\nkgs. of the blue mixture, mixing- slowly at a\ntemperature of 30° or 40° C. The mass is now\nof the consistency of honey. It is applied to\nthe paper with a coarse brush, and afterward\nevenly divided and polished with a badger s\nhair brush. The sheets are then dried on a\ntable heated by steam. This is done in a few\nminutes, and the paper is then ready for ship-\nment. The quantities mentioned will be suf-\nficient for about 1,000 sheets of 50x90 cen-\ntimeters, being a day s work for two girls.\nFor black paper aniline black is used in the\nsame proportion. The operation must be car-\nried on in a well ventilated room protected\nfrom fire, on account of the combustibility of\nthe material and the narcotic effects of the li-\ngroine. The paper is used by being placed be-\ntween two sheets of paper, the upper one re-\nceiving the original, the lower one the copy.\nCork Paper. A paper under this title has\nbeen patented in the United States it is pre-\npared by coating one side of a thick, soft, and\nflexible paper, with a mixture composed of\nglue, 20 parts gelatine, 1 part, and molasses, 3\nparts, and afterward covering with finely\npowdered cork, which is afterward lightly\nrolled in. This paper is largely used to pack\nftottles.\nPaper for Draughtsmen. —Water, 15 parts;\npowdered tragacanth, V/% parts. Dissolve and\nstrain through gauze. Stretch the paper on a\nboard. Apply the mixture smoothly to it.\nThe paper thus treated will take either oil or\nwater colors.\nTo Take Creases Out of Drawing Paper or Draw-\nings.— Place the drawing face downward on a\nsheet of smooth white paper cover with an-\nother sheet slightly dampened. Iron with an\niron moderately warm. Engravings may be\ntreated in the same way.\nEmery Paper.— Apply a thin coating of glue\nto paper which has been treated with a thin\ncoating of glue. Sift the emery on according\nto. its fineness.\nSolid Emery Paper.— Emery paper is fre-\nquently found lacking in retaining an equal\nefficiency, the fresh parts biting too much, and\nthe paper getting soon worn through in many\nplaces. Emery has been tried on linen, but\nwith little success. A paper or board has been\nrecommended in which emery enters as a con-\nstituent part. It is advised to employ fine and\nuniform cardboard pulp, with from one-third\nto half its weight of emery powder thoroughly\nmixed with it, so that the emery may be equal-\nly distributed. The mass should be poured out\ninto cakes of from 1 to 10 in. in thickness.\nThey must not be pressed hard. Such a paper,\nit is said, will adapt itself to the form of the\narticles and will serve until completely worn\nout.\nEnamel for Fine Cards.— For white and all\ndelicate shades.— Paraffin by weight, 15 parts;\npure kaolin (china clay), 62^ parts. The kaolin\nshould be very dry, and reduced to a powder.\nMix with the paraffin, after the latter has been\nheated to the fusing point. Let the mixture\ncool, then reduce to powder. When used, make\ninto a paste in a paint mill, with warm water.\nColor as desired.\nEnameled Paper. Various metallic pig-\nments are employed, such as will spread\nsmoothly and take a polish. The pigments are\nwhite lead, oxide of zinc, sulphate of barytes,\nChina clay, whiting, chalk, in a menstruum or\nupon a previous coating of glycerine, size, col-\nlodion, water, varnish, etc., afterward polished\nby an agate or between calendering or burnish-\ning cylinders.- Glassware Reporter.\nPaper, to Fireproof See Fireproofing.\nTo Render Paper Inflammable When Thrown\non the Ground.— Saturate the paper with a solu-\ntion of phosphorous in ethylic ether or carbon\n■disulphide. The solvent on evaporation leaves\nthe phosphorus in a finely divided condition\nand spontaneously inflammable.\nFly Paper Free from Poison.— Half lb. quassia\nwood; 1 qt. water. Pour the water over the\nwood and allow it to stand overnight. Strain\nand boil the liquid down to 1 pt. Boil the wood\nagain with 1 pt. water until J^ pt. i*emains. Mix\nthe two infusions, add J4 lb. sugar. When the\nsugar has dissolved pass the paper through the\nliquid, drain and dry.\nFly Paper. 1. Oil the paper and coat with\nturpentine varnish.\n2. Cobalt Fly Paper.— Vomacka gives the fol-\nlowing:\nQuassia chips 150 parts.\nChloride of cobalt 10 parts.\nTartar emetic 2 parts.\nTincture of long pepper (1 to\n4 of proof spirit) 80 parts.\nWater 400 parts.\n3. Powdered black pepper is mixed with sirup\nto a thick paste, which is spread by means of a\nbroad brush upon coarse blotting paper. Com-\nmon brown sirup will answer, but sirup made\nfrom sugar is preferable, as it dries quicker.\nFor use a piece of this paper is laid upon a\nplate and dampened with water. The paper\nmay also be made directly at the mill by adding\nsugar to the pulp and afterwards J4 t o V of\npowdered black pepper and rapidly working it\ninto a porous absorbent paper.\n4 To 1 lb. resin add 2 fl. drm. linseed oil.\nWhile the mixture is warm, spread it on fools-\ncap paper.\n5. Make a solution of 2 parts arseniate of\npotassium or arseniate of sodium, 4 parts white\nsugar, 40 parts water. Saturate stout unsized\npaper in this solution, then dry. To use the\npaper, moisten it with water, and place in\nsaucers. Great care should be taken with this\npaper, as it is poisonous.\n6. Melt resin and add thereto, while soft, suf-\nficient sweet oil, lard, or lamp oil to make it,\nwhen cold, about the consistency of honey.\nSpread on writing paper, and place in a con-\nvenient spot. It will soon be filled with ants,\nflies, and other vermin.\n7. Boiled linseed oil and resin; melt and add\nhoney. Soak the paper in a strong solution of\nalum and then dry before applying the above.\n8. Sticky fly paper may be coated with one of\nthe following mixtures: Resin, 9 parts: rape-\nseed oil, 4 parts.\n9. Resin, 8 parts; turpentine, 4 parts; rape-\nseed oil, 4 parts; honey, part.\n10. Resin, 1 lb,; molasses, S}4 oz.; linseed oil,\n3^ oz. Boil until thick enough.\nFumigating Paper.— Apply to bibulous paper\na strong ethereal or alcoholic solution of ben-\nzoin, tolu, storax, olibanum or labdanum. To\nburn well the paper should first be impregnated\nwith an aqueous solution of saltpeter and dried.\nStains for Glazed Papers.— Glue is used in\nlieu of the more expensive gums on account\nof the cheapness of these papers. One lb. of\nglue dissolved in 134 gal. water. The propor-\ntions of coloring materials are given for 1\nream of paper of medium weight and size.\nBlack.— 1. Dissolve 1 lb. of glue in 1J4 gal.\ntriturate, this with lampblack, 1 lb., previously\nrubbed up in rye whisky; Frankfort black, 2%\nlb.; Paris blue, 2 oz.; wax soap. 1 oz.r then add\nliquor of logwood, lb.\n2. One and a half gal. of liquor of logwood,\ncompounded with sulphate of iron, 1 oz. of wax\nsoap, 4J^ oz. of gum arabic.\nBlue (azure).— One and a quarter gal. of glue\nliquor as before, mixed with iy 2 lb. Berlin blue,\n2% lb. powdered chalk, 2*4 oz. light mineral\nblue, 2 oz. wax soap.\nBlue (dark).— Mix with U4 gal. of glue liquor\n4^j lb. powdered chalk, 4J4 oz. Paris blue, 2 oz.\nof wax soap.\nBlue (pale).— 1. Mix V£ gal. of tincture of Ber-\nlin blue and 1 oz. wax soap with 3^ oz. of so-\nlution of gum tragacanth.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0385.jp2"},"382":{"fulltext":"Paper. 370\nPaper.\n2. Take 134 gal. of glue liquor and mix with\n4 lb. of powdered chalk and 2 oz. each of Paris\nblue and wax soap.\nThe pulp should always be colored before it\nis sized, except in cases where the alum or resin\nsoap would injure the colors or be injured by\nthem.\nBrown (dark).— 1. One and a half gal. of glue\nliquor, mixed with 6 lb. each of colcothar\n(jeweler s rouge) and English pink, 1J4 lb. of\npowdered chalk, 2 oz. wax soap.\n2. Dissolve 1 oz. wax soap and 434 oz. gum\narabic in 34 gal. of good Brazil wood liquor,\nand add a like quantity of tincture of gall\nnuts.\nGreen (copper).— Mix in 1 14 gal. of glue liquor\n41b. of English verdigris, lj^lb. powdered chalk,\nand 4 oz. wax soap.\nGreen (pale).— Mix with 134 gal. glue liquor\n1 lb. Bremen blue, 8J4 oz. whiting, 1 oz. pale\nchrome yellow, and 2 oz. wax soap.\nLemon Color.— Mix in 134 gal. glue liquor 13\noz. lemon chrome, 2 lb. powdered chalk, and 2\noz. of wax soap.\nOrange Yellow.— Mix in 134 gal. glue liquor,\n2 lb. lemon chrome, 1 lb. Turkish minium, 2\nlb. white lead, and 2 oz. wax soap.\nRed (cherry).— Mix in 134 gal. glue liquor 834\nlb. of Turkey red, previously mixed up with\n34 gal. of Brazil wood liquor, and 2 oz. wax\nsoap.\nRed (dark).— Mix gal. of Brazil wood liquor\nwith 1 oz. wax soap, and 434 oz. gum arabic.\nRed (pale).— To 134 gal. of glue liquor add 834\nlb. of Turkey red, previously rubbed up with\n2 oz* of wax soap.\nViolet.- Four and a half oz. gum arabic and\n1 oz. wax soap are to be mixed with 34 gal. of\ngood logwood liquor. When the gum is dis-\nsolved, mix with it enough potash to form a\nmordant.\nStains for Morocco Papers.— For one ream of\npaper of medium size and weight the follow-\ning receipts are recommended\nBlack.— Dissolve 8% oz. of good parchment\nshavings in 134 gal. water; stir into this liquid 1\nlb. lampblack, 3 lb. Frankfort black and 1% oz.\nParis blue.\nBlue (dark). Dissolve 8% oz. parchment\nshavings in 1J4 gal. water, and mix in 834 lb. of\nwhite lead, and 434 lb. Paris blue.\nBlue (light).— Dissolve parchment shavings\nas before, and mix in 8% lb. of white lead and\n234 oz. Paris blue.\nGreen (dark). Dissolve 13 oz. parchment\nshavings in 234 gal. water, and mix in 10 lb. of\nSchweinfurth green.\nGreen (pale). Prepare solution of parchment\nas in the last, and mix with 8% lb. of Schwein-\nfurth green and 1 lb. fine Paris blue.\nOrange Yellow.— Dissolve 8% oz. parchment\nshavings in 134 gal. water, mix with 134 lb.\nlemon chrome, 8% oz. orange chrome, and 1 lb.\nwhite lead.\nRed (dark). Dissolve 8% oz. parchment\nshavings in 134 gal. water, add 1% lb. fine cinna-\nbar and 1 lb. Turkey red.\nRed (pale).— To the same quantity of parch-\nment liquor add 8M oz. Turkey red.\nViolet (light).— To 134 gal. parchment liquor\nadd 434 lb. white lead, 13 oz. light mineral blue,\nand 8% oz. scarlet lake.\nViolet (dark).— To 134 gal. parchment liquor\nadd 3M lb. of white lead, 1 lb. pale mineral blue,\nand 8% oz. scarlet lake.\nYellow (pale).— To 134 gal. parchment liquor\nadd 2 lb. light chrome yellow, and 8% oz. white\nlead.\nStains for Satin Papers.— For each ream of\npaper of medium weight and size, the follow-\ning recipes are given\nBlue (azure).— Dissolve 13 oz. parchment shav-\nings in 2J4 gal. of water, mix with 3 lb. Bremen\nblue, 1% lb. English mineral blue, and 434 oz.\nwax soap.\nBlue (light).— Dissolve 8% oz. parchment in\nl^j gal. of water, mix with 13 oz. light chrome\nyellow; jewelers rouge, 634 oz.; Frankfort\nblack, 2 oz.; powdered chalk, 3 lb.; and wax\nsoap, 334 oz.\nBrown (reddish).— Dissolve 8% oz. parchment\nin \\y 2 gal. water; add yellow ocher, 1 lb.; light\nchrome yellow, 434 oz.; white lead, lib.; red\nocher, 1 oz.; wax soap, 334 oz.\nBrown (light).— 1J4 gal. parchment liquor as\nbefore, add 13 oz. light chrome yellow, 634 oz.\njewelers rouge, 2 oz. Frankfort black, 3 lb. pow-\ndered chalk, 3 L /2 oz. wax soap.\nGray (lignt). 134 gal. parchment liquor,\nmixed with 434 lb. powdered chalk, 8% oz. of\nFrankfort black, 1 oz. Paris blue, 334 oz. wax\nsoap.\nGray (bluish).— To 134 gal. parchment liquor\nadd 434 lb. powdered chalk, 1 lb. light mineral\nblue, 434 oz. English green, 1% oz. Frankfort\nblack, and 3J4 oz. Avax soap.\nGreen (brownish).— To 134 gal. parchment\nliquor add 1 lb. Schweinfurth green, 8% oz.\nmineral green, 434 oz. each of burnt umber and\nEnglish pink, 1 lb. whiting, and 334 oz. wax\nsoap\nGreen (light).— To 134 gal. parchment liquor\nadd 2% lb. each of English green and powdered\nchalk, and 334 oz. wax soap.\nLemon Color.— To 134 gal. parchment liquor\nadd 1J4 lb. lemon chrome, 1 lb. white lead, and\nwax soap, 3J4 oz.\nOrange Yellow.— i34 gal. parchment liquor,\n434 lb. lemon chrome, 8% oz. Turkey red, 1 lb.\nwhite lead. 334 oz. wax soap.\nViolet (light), 134 gal. parchment liquor,\nmixed with 134 lb. of light mineral blue, 134 lb.\nscarlet lake, 1 lb. white lead, and 334 oz. wax\nsoap.\nWhite.— To 134 gal. parchment liquor add\n8% lb. Kremnitz white, 434 oz. Bremen\nblue, 334 oz. wax soap.\nSilver White. 134 gal. parchment liquor\nmixed with 8% lb. Kremnitz white; 8% oz.\nFrankfort black; 334 oz. wax soap.\nPale Yellow 134 gal. parchment liquor,\nmixed with 434 lb. light chrome yellow, 1 lb.\npowdered chalk, 334 oz. wax soap.\nGlass Paper.— The fragments of broken wine\nbottles, etc., are carefully washed to remove\ndirt, the glass is crushed under a revolving\nstone and sifted into six sizes, as in manufac-\nturing emery. It is sifted through sieves of\nwire cloth, which are generally cylindrical,\nlike the bolts of flour mills. The cloths have\nfrom sixteen to ninety wires to the inch. A\nsurface of thin glue is spread on the paper, and\nthe pulverized glass dusted over it with a sieve.\nGraphit zed Paper. To combine graphite\nwith paper and other fibrous materials, Alonzo\nHitchcock treats the latter with a bath of sul-\nphuric acid diluted with one half the quantity\nof water, until the surface is turned to a gela-\ntinous state. One or both surfaces should then\nbe covered with pulverized graphite, and then\nput in a bath of alkaline liquid to neutralize\nthe acid. Cotton or flax thread, or yarn, may\nbe treated in the same manner. By mixing\nnitric acid with the sulphuric, raw cotton may\nbe used.\nGreasu Paper, to Write on.— To one ox gall\nadd a handful of salt and 34 pt. vinegar. If the\nparchment or paper is greasy, add a little of\nthis to the ink.\nHardening Paper.— The French papers speak\nof a method of rendering paper extremely hard\nand tenacious by subjecting the pulp to the\naction of chloride of zinc. After it has been\ntreated with the chloride* it is submitted to a\nstrong pressure, thereafter becoming as hard\nas wood and as tough as leather. The hardness\nvaries according to the strength of the metallic\nsolution. The material thus produced can be\neasily colored. It may be employed in covering\nfloors with advantage, and may be made to re-\nplace leather in the manufacture of coarse\nshoes, and is a good material for whip handles,\nthe mountings of saws, for buttons, combs, and\nother articles of various descriptions. An ex-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0386.jp2"},"383":{"fulltext":"Paper.\n371\nPaper.\ncellent use of it is in large sheets for roofing-.\nPaper aiready manufactured acquires the\nsame consistency when plunged, unsized, into\na solution of the chloride.\nHydrographic Paper.— A name applied to pre-\npared paper which is written on with water,\nwhen the writing- appears.— 1. Calcined sul-\nphate of iron, 1 part, and 4 parts nutgalls, both\nfinely powdered, are rubbed into the paper\nwith pressure. Writes black with water.\n2. Use persulphate of iron and ferrocyanide of\npotassium in the same way as No. 1.\n3. As in the last, using copper sulphate in-\nstead of iron sulphate. Writes brown.\n4. Wet the paper with a colorless solution of\nferrocyanide of potassium, and after drying\nwrite on the paper with a solution of persul-\nphate of iron. Writes blue. See also Inks-\nSympathetic.\nIndia Paper.— This paper is much used for\nproofs of etchings. In printing upon India\npaper no cement is used to attach it to the plate\npaper, the pressure exerted by the cylinder be-\ning* sufficient to cause adhesion.\nInsulating Paper.— Absorbent tissue paper is\nrendered insulating- by steeping it in melted\nparaffin, and is used for the dielectric of large\ntelegraph condensers, and Muirbead s artificial\ncable. An insulating varnish for paper is made\nby mixing 1 part Canada balsam and 2 parts es-\nsence of turpentine. Digest in a bottle with a\ngentle heat, and filter before cooling.\nIridescent Paper. Gall nuts (coarsely pow-\ndered), 6% oz.; sulphate of iron, 4J4 oz.; sul-\nphate of indigo, oz.; gum arabic, 18 grn.\nBoil these ingredients, strain through a cloth,\nbrush the paper with the liquid, and expose to\nvapor of ammonia.\nIssue Paper.— One part each of elemi, sper-\nmaceti, and Venice turpentine white wax, 2\nparts melt them together by gentle heat, and\nspread the mixture on paper. Used to keep\nissues open.\nLithographic Paper.— To prevent ink from\nadhering to and sinking into lithographic\npaper, which would render a perfect transfer\nto the stone impossible, the following plans are\nused\n1. Coat the paper with 3 successive layers of\nsheep-foot jelly, 1 of cold white starch, and 1 of\ngamboge. The first coat is applied by a sponge\ndipped in the hot solution of jelly, thinly but\nvery evenly over the whole surface the others\nare applied in succession, each previous one\nbeing- allowed to dry first. When the paper is\ndry, it is smoothed by passing through the li-\nthographic press.\n2. Cover rather strong unsized paper with a\nvarnish composed of 120 parts starch, 40 of gum\narabic, and 20 of alum. Make a moderate paste\nof the starch by boiling, dissolve the gum and\nalum separately, and then mix all together.\nWhen well mixed, apply hot with aflat smooth\nbrush to the leaves of paper. Dry and smooth\nby passing- under the press.\n3. This paper, which is written upon with\nlithographic ink, may be prepared by either of\nthe following formulae Take starch, 6 oz.;\ngum arabic, 3 oz.; alum, 1 oz. Make a strong\nsolution of each separately in hot water, then\nmix the whole and strain the liquor through\ngauze. It must be applied to one side of the\npaper while still warm by means of a soft brush\nor sponge. A second or third coating may be\ngiven as the preceding one becomes dry. The\npaper is finally pressed to render it smooth.\n4. The paper must first receive 3 coats of thin\nsize, one coat of good white starcn, and 1\ncoat of a weak solution of gamboge in water.\nThe ingredients are to be applied cold with a\nsponge and each coat allowed to dry before\nthe next is applied.\nLitmus Paper, to Prepare. The preparation\nof litmus is as follows The ground lichens are\nfirst treated with urine containing a little pot-\nash, and allowed to ferment for several weeks,\nwhe reby they produce a purple red; the col-\nored liquor, treated with quicklime and some\nmore urine, is again set to ferment during two\nor three weeks then it is mixed with chalk or\ngypsum into a paste which is formed into small\ncubical pieces by being pressed into brass\nmoulds and dried in the shape. Litmus is easy\nto pulverize, is partially soluble in water and\ndilute alcohol, leaving a residue consisting of\ncalcium carbonate, silica, gypsum and iron ox-\nide combined with the dye. This residue is no\nsoluble unless by treatment with acids, wine\nwould interfere with the action of the litmu;\nFor making litmus paper an infusion of 1 oz.\nlitmus to pt. hot water is recommended by\nFaraday.\nLuminous Paper. 1. Dry thoroughly and\nmix by grinding, 3 parts gelatine, 3 parts potas-\nsium bichromate and 37^£ parts calcium sul-\nphide. Stir 1 part of the powder with V\nparts boiling water to a thickly fluid paint.\nApply one or two coats with a brush to the\npaper or pasteboard to be made luminous.\n2. A foreign journal says that a luminous\nwaterproof paper, which may be of use in\nplaces not well adapted for the application of\nthe so-called luminous paint, may be made\nfrom a mixture of 40 parts pulp, 10 parts phos-\nphorescent powder, 1 part gelatine, 1 part\npotassium bichromate and 10 parts water.\nManifold Paper.— Saturate fine unglazed pa-\nper with the following Tallow, 2 oz.; graphite\nin finest powder. )4, oz.; linseed oil, 34 Pt.; lamp-\nblack, sufficient quantity to make it of the con-\nsistence of cream. Melt and rub together in a\nmortar.\nPaper, to Remove Mildew from. See Cleans-\ning (Mildew).\nOiled Paper.— 1. Brush sheets of paper over\nwith boiled oil in which a little shellac has been\ncarefully dissolved over a slow fire; suspend\non a line till dry.\n2. The paper is laid on a square board and\nwell covered with a mixture composed as fol-\nlows Boiled linseed oil is reboiled with litharge,\nlead acetate, zinc sulphate and burnt umber, 1\noz. of each per gal. The first sheet is covered\non both sides the second, placed on this, re-\nceives one coating and so on separate and hang\nup to dry.\nOzone Papers.— Mix boiled starch water with\na small quantity of a solution of iodide of\npotassium, moisten papers with it, dry them\nand keep ready for use. If there is any ozone\nor acid vapors in the air, they will set the\niodine free, and this will color the starch blue.\nThe way to use this paper is evident.\nPacking Paper.— I. Packing paper may be\nmade water tight by dissolving T82 lb. of white\nsoap in 1 qt. water, and dissolving- in another\nquart P82 oz. (apothecaries weight) gum arabic\nand 5*5 oz. glue. The two solutions are mixed\nand warmed, the paper is soaked in the mix-\nture and passed between rollers or hung up to\ndry.\n2. The paper is treated with boiled linseed oil,\nthe excess of oily particles being removed by\nbenzine; it is then washed in a chlorine bath,\nand after drying, treated with hydrogen per-\noxide. If the paper has been made from ropes\nit is coated with a layer of starch before the\ntreatment of linseed oil and benzine. The\nfinal operation is satining, by a passage through\nsmooth rollers.\n3. Russian oil cask bottoms are often pasted\nover on the outside with a kind of paper hav-\ning a gelatinous looking skin, and which is\nquite oil tight. Such has been brushed over\nwith a mixture of blood and lime, a prepara-\ntion much used in Russia and China, and quite\noil and water tight.\nPapyrine.— Dip white unsized paper for\nminute in strong sulphuric acid, afterward in\nwater containing a little ammonia. Paper thus\ntreated has, when dry, the toughness and ap-\npearance of parchment.\nParafflne Paper.— Dissolve paraffine in ben-","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0387.jp2"},"384":{"fulltext":"Paper.\n372\nPaper.\nzine, and into the warm solution dip the paper,\nsheet by sheet; let drip off and dry. On the large\nscale it may be done by letting- paper from a\ncontinuous roll pass through such a solution and\nthen between flannel to absorb the surplus.\nWax is best dissolved in carbon disulphide, and\npaper can thus be made ready lor use in five min-\nutes. Quite a good plan is to apply the benzine\nsolution of parafline by means of a sponge.\nParchment Paper.— Strong unsized paper is\nimmersed for a few seconds in oil of vitriol\ndiluted w ith half its volume of water. It is then\nAvashed in pure water or weak ammonia water.\nThe acid solution must not be warmer than\nthe surrounding atmosphere.\nParchment Paper, to Paste.— Moisten the sur-\nface of that part of the paper which is to be\njoined with alcohol or brandy, then apply the\nglue or paste; gum arabic will not answer. A\nfirm joint may be made by inserting a piece of\nvery thin paper between the surfaces of the\nparchment paper,\nPhenyl Paper.— Used for packing meat and\nsubstances liable to decay. Fuse 12^ parts\nstearic acid at a moderate heat. Mix with 5\nparts carbolic acid and 12^ parts paraffine\n(melted). Stir until the mixture becomes solid.\nTake the paper and go over quickly with a hot\niron, against which is held a piece of the mix-\nture, which will melt and run down on the\npaper.\nPaper Powder.— Sometimes called pollen pow-\nder. Boil the paper for a number of hours,\nstrain and reduce to fine powder in a mortar.\nSift this powder through a fine sieve. The\npowder is used to give the bloom to artificial\nfruit and is also used by taxidermists.\nPrepared Paper.— Paper prepared so that a\nbrass pointer leaves a black mark on it. Dis-\nsolve 34 oz. pure sodium sulphide and oz. so-\ndium hyposulphite in 1 qt. rain water; filter the\nsolution, and with it uniformly moisten the sur-\nface of the paper; then dry the latter under-\npressure between clean blotting paper.\nRazor Strop Paper.— 1. Mix the finest emery\nand finely powdered glass with paper pulp and\nmake into sheets in the ordinary way. Glue to\na strip of wood.\n2. Smooth unsized paper is rubbed over after\ndampening with a mixture of calcined peroxide\niron and emery.\n3. Paper prepared after the following recipe\nis said to render the use of the razor strop un-\nnecessary. By merely wiping the razor on the\npaper to remove the lather after shaving, a\nkeen edge is maintained without further\ntrouble. The razor must be well sharpened at\nthe outset. First, procure oxide of iron (by the\naddition of carbonate of soda to a solution of\npersulphate of iron), well wash the precipitate,\nand finally leave it of the consistence of cream.\nSpread this over soft paper very thinly with a\nsoft brush. Cut the paper in pieces two inches\nsquare, dry, and it is ready for use.\nResin. 1. Spread evenly with black pitch.\n2. Beeswax, 2 oz.; tar and resin, each, 6 oz.;\nmelt and spread evenly on paper.\nRemoval of Paper. The only way in which\nthe paper can be removed is by covering it with\na damp cloth until it is sufficiently moist, when\nit can be easily taken off.\nSafety Paper. Protective for checks. Print\nwith a fugitive writing ink, which will be easily\ndestroyed.\nNon-erasible Paper.— 1. Paper may be prepared\nfor bank checks and other documents so that\nany writing in ink once made thereon cannot\nbe altered without leaving 1 plainly visible\nmarks, by passing the sheets through a solu-\ntion composed of 0*015 grn. gallic acid to 1 gill\ndistilled water.\n2. A simple way of preparing paper for bank\nchecks, bills, etc., so that no writing can be\nerased without leaving plainly visible marks, is\nto pass the sheets through a solution of gallic\nacid. One milligram (0 01543 of a grn.) is dis-\nsolved in as much pure distilled water as will\nfill an ordinary soup plate to a moderate depth.\nPaper, Sensitized. See Photography.\nPaper for Wrapping Up Silver.— Six parts of\ncaustic soda dissolved in water until the hy-\ndrometer shows 20° B. To this solution are\nadded four parts of oxide of zinc, and boiled\nuntil dissolved. Sufficient water must next be\nadded to reduce the solution to 10° B. Next\ndip paper or calico into this solution and dry.\nThis wrapping will very effectually preserve\nsilver articles from being blackened by sul-\nphureted hydrogen, which, as is well known,\nis contained in the atmosphere of all large\ncities.\nSize, for Paper. Glue and alum water is\nabout as satisfactory a size as can be used.\nBesides isinglass, mentioned above, a mixture\nof starch or dextrine and alum can be used.\nThe cheaper sizes are made by heating clip-\npings of hides, horns, bones, etc. The process\nis as follows: The articles, generally the first\nmentioned, are softened by soaking in cold\nAvater for a day or tAvo after that they are\nwell cleaned by washing in running water.\nThe next operation is to boil, or rather heat\nthem Avith water. The temperature should\nnever be allowed to rise much above 85° C. (185°\nF.), as gelatine strongly heated for any length\nof time loses its power of gelatinizing. The\noperation should be conducted in an iron or\ncopper vessel, provided with a false bottom or a\ncasing outside, Avhere steam may be introduced,\nand it should extend over about fifteen hours.\nThe solution should then be drawn off and fil-\ntered into some convenient receptacle. The\nresidue can again be heated with water, and a\nfresh quantity obtained, Avhich may be added\nto the bulk. A quantity of alum (about 20% of\nthe clippings) dissolved in water is added. The\nsize should be well filtered through Avoolen\nfelt, after which it requires no further treat-\nment.\nSplit Paper.— 1. Get a piece of plate glass and\nplace it on a sheet of paper then let the latter\nbe thoroughly soaked. With care and a little\ndexterity the sheet can be split by the top sur-\nface being removed. But the best plan is to\npaste a piece of cloth or strong paper to each\nside of the sheet to be split. When dry, violently\nand without hesitation, pull the tAvo pieces\nasunder, when part of the sheet will be found\nto have adhered to one and part to the other.\nSoften the paste in water, and the pieces can\nbe easily remo\\ r ed from the cloth.\nThe process is generally demonstrated as a\nmatter of curiosity, yet it can be utilized in\nvarious ways. If Ave Avant to paste in a scrap-\nbook a newspaper article printed on both sides\nof the paper, and possess only one copy, it is\nvery com r enient to know how to detach the\none side from the other. The paper, when\nsplit, as may be imagined, is more transparent\nthan it Avas before being subjected to the\noperation, and the printing ink is someAvhat\nduller; otherwise the tAvo pieces present the\nappearance of the original if again brought to-\ngether.\n2. The paper to be split is pasted between two\nsheets of compact strong paper. The best flour\npaste should be used. Mucilage is unreliable.\nWhen nearly dry, if the tAvo outer pieces of\npaper are pulled apart, the central one will\nsplit, and one-half of the central piece Avill ad-\nhere to each. By soaking in Avater they can be\nremoA r ed. Some kinds of paper work better\nthan others. If the outer paper is of a loose\ntexture, it may split instead of the desired one.\nPaper, Removal of Stains from. See also\nCleansing.— Oil stains may be remoA^ed from\npaper by applying pipe clay powdered and\nmixed Avith water to the thickness of cream\nleave on for four hours.\nSticking Paper.— Brush o\\er your sheets a\nsolution of dextrin, with sugar mixed.\nTest Papers —Use good unsized paper, Avet\nuniformly with the substance. In preparing","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0388.jp2"},"385":{"fulltext":"Paper.\n373\nPaper.\ndecoctions, making solutions, etc., where\nwater is used, only distilled water must be\nused.\n1. Brazil Wood.— Make from the decoction;\nalkalies turn it to a purple; acids, if strong, to a\nred.\n2. Buckthorn.— Reddened by acids.\n3. Cherry Juice.— Same as buckthorn.\n4. Dahlia.— This very delicate test is turned\ngreen by alkalies, red by acids; caustic alkalies\nyellow.\n5. Elderberry.— Same as last.\n6. Same as last.\n7. Iodide of Potassium.— Make the solution in\ndistilled water. Used in a number of ways as\na test.\n8. Lead Acetate. Make from a solution of\nthe salt in water. Used to detect hydrogen\nsulphide.\n9. Litmus. See Litmus Paper.\n10. Mallow. Prepare an infusion of the\npurple flowers of the mallow. Affected the\nsame as the dahlia paper.\n11. Manganese.— From solution of manganese\nsulphate; blackened by ozone.\n12. Rhubarb.— Make a strong infusion of the\npowdered root. Alkalies turn it brown; boracic\nacid has no effect upon it.\n13. Rose.— Made from a strong infusion of the\nleaves of the red rose. Alkalies turn it green.\n14. Starch.— From a cold decoction of starch.\nFree iodine turns it blue.\n15. Sulphate of Iron.— From a solution of\nferrous sulphate. Used as a test for hydro-\ncyanic acid.\n16. Turmeric— This is made by preparing an\nalcoholic tincture of turmeric root. Unsized\npaper may be stained with it; used in testing\nfor alkalies.\nTracing Paper.— The following receipts are\nfrom the Mechanics Own Book\n1. A German invention has for its object the\nrendering more or less transparent of paper\nused for writing or drawing, either with ink,\npencil or crayon, and also to give the paper\nsuch a surface that such writing or drawing-\nmay be completely removed by washing, with-\nout in any way injuring the paper. The object\nof making the paper translucent is that when\nused in schools the scholars can trace the copy,\nand thus become proficient in the formation\nof letters without the explanations usually\nnecessary; and it may also be used in any place\nwhere tracings may be required, as by laying\nthe paper over the object to be copied it can be\nplainly seen. Writing paper is used by prefer-\nence, its preparation consisting in first saturat-\ning it with benzine, and then immediately\ncoatingthe paper with a suitable rapidly drying\nvarnish before the benzine can evaporate. The\napplication of varnish is by preference made\nby plunging the paper into a bath of it, but it\nmay be applied with a brush or sponge. The\nvarnish is prepared of the following ingredi-\nents: Boiled bleached linseed oil, 20 lb.; lead\nshavings, 1 lb.; zinc oxide, 5 lb.; Venetian tur-\npentine, }4 lb- Mix, and boil eight hours. After\ncooling, strain, and add 5 lb. white copal and hi\nlb. sandarac.\n2. The following is a capital method of pre-\nparing tracing paper for architectural or en-\ngineering tracings: Take common tissue or\ncap paper, any size of sheet lay each sheet\non a flat surface, and sponge over (one side)\nwith the following, taking care not to miss any\npart of the surface Canada balsam, 2 pt.; spir-\nits of turpentine, 3 pt.; to which add a few\ndrops of old nut oil a sponge is the best in-\nstrument for applying the mixture, which\nshould be used warm. As each sheet is pre-\npared, it should be hung up to dry over two\ncords stretched tightly and parallel, about 8 in.\napart, to prevent the lower edges of the paper\nfrom coming in contact. As soon as dry, the\nsheets should be carefully rolled on straight\nand smooth wooden rollers about 2 in. in diame-\nter, covered with paper. The sheets will be dry\nwhen no stickiness can be felt. A little practice\nwill enable any one to make good tracing paper\nin this way at a moderate rate. The composi-\ntion gives substance to the tissue paper.\n3. You may make paper sufficiently transpar-\nent for tracing by saturating it with spirits of\nturpentine or benzoline. As long as the paper\ncontinues to be moistened with either of these,\nyou can carry on your tracing when the spir-\nit has evaporated, the paper will be opaque.\nInk or water colors may be used on the surface\nwithout running.\n4. A convenient method for rendering ordin-\nary drawing paper transparent for the purpose\nof making tracings, and of removing its tran-\nparency, so as to restore its former appear-\nance when the drawing is completed, has been\ninvented by Puscher. It consists in dissolving\na given quantity of castor oil in 1, 2, or 3 vol-\numes of absolute alcohol, according to the\nthickness of the paper, and applying it by means\nof sponge. The alcohol evaporates in a few min-\nutes and the tracing paper is dry and ready\nfor immediate use. The drawing or tracing\ncan be made either with lead pencil or Indian\nink, and the oil removed from the paper by\nimmersing it in absolute alcohol, thus restoring\nits original opacity. The alcohol employed in\nremoving the oil is, of course, preserved for\ndiluting the oil used in preparing the next\nsheet.\n5. Put hi oz. gum mastic into a bottle holding\n6 oz. best spirits of turpentine, shaking it up\nday by day when thoroughly dissolved, it is\nready for use. It can be made thinner at any\ntime by adding more turps. Then take some\nsheets of the best quality tissue paper, open\nthem, and apply the mixture with a small\nbrush. Hang up to dry.\n6. Saturate ordinary writing paper with pe-\ntroleum, and wipe the surface dry.\n7. Lay a sheet of fine white wove tissue pa-\nper on a clean board, brush it softly on both\nsides with a solution of beeswax in spirits of\nturpentine (say about \\k oz. in pint), and\nhang to dry for a few days out of the dust.— Me-\nchanics Own Booh.\n8. Tracing Paper that may be Washed.— Use\nwriting paper, saturate it with benzine, and\nthen immediately coat the paper with a suit-\nable, rapidly drying varnish before the benzine\ncan evaporate. The varnish is prepared as fol-\nlows: Boiled bleached linseed oil, 20 lb.; lead\nshavings, 1 lb.; zinc oxide, 5 lb.; Venice turpen-\ntine, y lb.; mix and boil for 8 hours. After\ncooling, strain, and add white gum copal, 5 lb.,\nand gum sandarac, J^lb. Thus prepared the pa-\nper will be found to possess all the requisites\nfor use as stated above.— Science Record, 187 k.\n9. Steep sheets of suitable paper in a strong\nsolution of gum arabic, and afterward take\noff the superfluity of the liquid by pressing\neach sheet between two others of similar paper,\nbut dry. It will be found that the three sheets\nare converted into a first-rate tracing paper. It\nis indispensable that the solution be strong,\nabout the consistency of boiled oil. Paper pre-\npared as above directed possesses every requis-\nite that can be wished for.\nTransfer Paper.— I. Rub the surface of thin\npost or tissue paper with graphite, black lead,\nvermilion, red chalk, or other pigment and\ncarefully remove the excess of coloring matter\nby rubbing with a clean rag.\n2. Rub into thin white paper a mixture of 6\nparts lard and 1 part beeswax, with sufficient\nfine lampblack to give it a good color; apply\nthe mixture warm, and not in excess.\n3. Under exactly the same conditions use a\ncompound consisting of 2 oz. tallow, V£ oz.\npowdered blacklead, graphite, hi Pt. linseed oil,\nand enough lampblack to produce a creamy\nconsistence.— Mechanics Own Booh.\n4. Black Transfer Paper.— Get some ungtazed\npaper and rub it well with a paste made of gas\nblack or black from a parafBne lamp and olive\noil, with a piece of sponge.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0389.jp2"},"386":{"fulltext":"Paper.\n5. Writing and Drawing on Transfer Paper.—\nTo dissolve solid lithograph ink, warm the pot\nat the fire or gas, using rain or distilled water\nto rub it down with, as it is softer than other\nwater. The pen will be found to work better\nat first if it is dipped in oil, and then wiped pre-\nvious to writing.\n6. Brackelsberg s multiplying paper consists\nof sheets of paper, each one supplied with a\ncoloring layer whose principal element is a\nviolet aniline methyl. An oiled leaf serves as\na hard, smooth under layer. Place a sheet of\n[the copy paper on this, then a sheet of writing\npaper and write with a hard lead pencil. The\nback of the writing paper will give a negative\nof the writing in high color. Wet the copy\nsheet thoroughly, and from it twenty or more\ncopies can be made, which will not roll nor\nshow a gelatinous coating. Embroidery and\ncompass sawing patterns are finely rendered in\nthis way.\nTransfer Paper for Warm Stones. Make a\nsize by boiling parchment cuttings. Let it be\nso strong that when cold it will be firm jelly.\nGrind dry flake white with water, add it to the\nsize after warming it, mix well and rub through\na sieve. The proportion of flake white may\nvary with circumstances. If too much be used\npens will not work upon it properly, and prob-\nably the finest lines will fail in transferring.\nCoat the paper with the composition with a\nfull brush, or use a sponge and give two coats,\nthe second when the first is dry. If for writ-\ning, the paper may be thin, if for drawing it\nshould be thicker, using drawing paper for\nvery large subjects. The stone for this paper\nshould be quite warm. Similar paper is made\nfrom gelatine or from the better sorts of glue,\ninstead of parchment cuttings. Other sub-\nstances are also used instead of flake white,\nsuch as chalk and old plaster of Paris. Flake\nwhite is best because it grinds up so finely.\nPaper for Cold Stones.— Take 4 oz. of starch\nand 1 oz. best pale colored glue. Break the\nglue and put it in cold water overnight to\nsoak. Mix the starch with a little cold water\nand then pour boiling water upon it till it\nthickens, stirring it all the time. Now put in\nthe glue and boil over a slow fire or gas jet,\nbrush over the paper while warm. This may\nbe used on tracing paper, printing paper or\nwriting paper. For ordinary use printing\npaper is preferable, because the water pene-\ntrates more quickly through the back of it in\ntransferring. Some persons add a little flake\nwhite. If a more adhesive paper is required,\na common kind of glue may be used and its\nproportion increased or gum arabic, or even\ndextrine, may be added.\nLithographic Transfer Paper. Dissolve in\nwater }4 oz. gum tragacanth. Strain and add\n1 oz. of glue and 1 oz. of gamboge. Then take\n4 oz. French chalk, }4 oz. old plaster of Paris, 1\noz. starch; powder, and sift through a fine sieve;\ngrind up, with the gum, glue, and gamboge;\nthen add sufficient water to give it the consist-\nence of oil, and apply with a brush to thin\nsized paper r\nColoring Transfer Paper.— The addition of\ncoloring matter to transfer paper is for the\n3 more ready determination of the coated side.\nGamboge is generally used, but any kind of\ncoloring matter will answer the purpose. A\nlight pink tint is distinguishable by artificial\nlight, Avhile a yeilow is scarcely visible. Rose\npink or a solution of cochineal in ammonia\nanswers this purpose.\nTo Toughen Paper.— A plan for rendering paper\nas tough as wood or leather consists in mixing\nchloride of zinc with the pulp in the course of\nmanufacture. It has been found that the\ngreater the degree of concentration of the\nzinc solution, the greater will be the toughness\nof the paper. It can be used for making boxes,\ncombs, for roofing, and even for making\nboots.\n374 Paper.\nTransparent Paper.— There are several meth-\nods of rendering paper transparent, among\nwhich the following have been recommended\nBoiled and bleached linseed oil, 120 parts; lead\nturnings, 6 parts; oxide of zinc, 30 parts; Venice\nturpentine, 3 parts. The above ingredients are\nplaced in an iron or other suitable vessel, in\nwhich they are thoroughly mixed and the whole\nthen boiled for about eight hours. The mixture\nis then allowed to cool, when it is again well\nstirred and the following substances added:\nWhite copal, 30 parts; gum sandarac, 2 parts;\nthese ingredients being well incorporated by\nStirring.\nDrawing Paper, to Render Transparent.— Dis-\nsolve a given quantity of castor oil in 1, 2 or 3\nvolumes of absolute alcohol, according to the\nthickness of the paper, and apply with a\nsponge. The alcohol evaporates in a few\nminutes and the tracing paper is ready for im-\nmediate use. The drawing or tracing can be\nmade either with lead pencil or India ink, and\nthe oil removed from the paper by immersing\nit in absolute alcohol, thus restoring its origi-\nnal opacity. The ink used must be of the\nwater-proof variety.\nPaper, Varnish for. See Varnishes.\nPaper, to Waterproof. See Waterproof-\ning.\nWaxed Paper. Place cartridge or other\npaper on a hot iron and rub it with beeswax, or\nbrush on a solution of wax in turpentine. On\na large scale, it is prepared by opening a quire\nof paper flat upon a table, and rapidly ironing\nit with a heavy hot iron, against which is held\na piece of wax, which, melting, runs down\nupon the paper and is absorbed by it. Any ex-\ncess on the topmost layer readily penetrates to\nthe lower ones. Such paper is useful for making\nwaterproof and airproof tubes, and for general\nwrapping purposes.\nPaper Hanging.— The art of putting on\nor hanging paper, is very simple, and is easily\nlearned; but to make a tasteful choice of pa-\nper for various situations is not so easy Hence\nthe following remarks, which may be of service\nto the workman or others on whom the selec-\ntion of paper may devolve.\nWalls to a room should be regarded only in\nthe light of a framework to what the room\ncontains, and should be decorated so as to\nbring into prominence and not eclipse the other\nparts of the chamber. Nothing destroys the\neffect of a room so much as a handsome but\nstaring wall paper, or a wall so profusely orna-\nmented as to strike upon the eye to the exclu-\nsion of the rest of the decorations, tnus bring-\ning forward what should be the background\ninto the most conspicuous place. A modern\ndrawing room is always difficult to decorate\nartistically, because of the taste of its build-\ners for heavy cornices, prominent mantel-\npieces and rooms too lofty for their size; and\nas all these misnamed embellishments are\ntoo costly to remove by tenants, the only plan\nto pursue is to destroy their effect by exercis-\ning both taste and ingenuity. First, with re-\ngard to the ceiling, the ornamental plaster\nboss in its center should be removed and the\nceiling tinted a color that harmonizes with the\nwall paper, as no harmonies can be hoped for\nwhen what produces them is surmounted with\nthe glaring white of an Qrdinary ceiling-. The\ntint used must be one that softens into the\nwall paper, not one that contrasts; thus, if the\ntone of the room is that of a soft gray blue,\nthe ceiling should be a clear flesh pink; or\nshould a gray green picked out with black be\nthe chosen color, then it should be colored a\nsubdued lemon.\nSome people cover their ceilings with a\nwhole colored paper, and border it with a sten-\nciled pattern representing the thin garlands","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0390.jp2"},"387":{"fulltext":"Paper.\n375\nPapier.\nso familiar upon Queen Anne decorations, but\nthis is a more troublesome plan than the sim-\nple coloring, which answers all the purposes.\nThe walls, if they are lofty, require a high\ndado. These high dados give a look of com-\nfort and home that is absent from the modern\nhigh pitched room papered with one uniform\npattern. The dado is divided 3 ft. to 4 ft.\nfrom the ceiling, and the coloring of the lower\nportion must always be heavier than that used\non the upper, or a top-heavy look will be given\nto the room. When many pictures are to be\nhung up, the lower part of the dado should be\nof a whole color, either a whole colored paper\nor a painted wall, as pictures are only shown\noff upon such a background. When a whole tint\nis used for the lower part of the dado, the up-\nper portion should be decorated with a frieze\npaper of a good bold pattern, but of subdued\ncoloring, and of tint that harmonizes with the\nlower. Thus, the color used about the frieze\nshould be the same as that on the lower part,\nbut of a lighter shade, intermixed with some\nother colors that form a harmonious link be-\ntween the two shades. Contrasts must be care-\nfully avoided, but pale pinks, blue and ambers\ncan be blended together above a subdued gray\nblue ground. The two portions of the dado\nshould be joined together with a light wooden\n(black or brown) railing, or with a line of\npaint.\nThe dado decoration can be altered by\nplacing the pattern paper upon the lower part\nand leaving the upper plain colored, with\nor without a stenciled pattern upon it. This\nwill suit a room where not many pictures are\nrequired, or that is already rather dark. Some\npart of the wall should always be in plain color,\nas the eye requires rest; and no pattern,however\nsubdued in hue, can give the relief to the\nmind that a bit of plain coloring affords, and\nthis scarcity of ornament in one part of a room\nis amply repaid by the effect it gives to such\nparts as are bright and should be bright. The\ntrue theory of effect is to use but one or two\nbright colors in a room, and to surround them\nby soft and subdued tints that throw up and\ndo not destroy their brilliancy; a number of\nbright colors placed together destroy each\nother and leave no impression upon the mind\nbut glare and vulgarity. Having settled upon\nyour paper and ceiling, have the woodwork\nand cornice of the room painted either a shade\nlighter or darker than the walls, and shroud\nup the mantelpiece with curtains, etc., of\nsatin sheeting embroidered with crewels, and\ninstead of the usual looking glass over the fire-\nplace, have a mirror surrounded with brackets\nholding china; or have a black wooden mantel-\npiece made with squares of looking glass set\nin. The background of your room being thus\ncompleted in a manner really to be a back-\nground, your furniture will look twice as well\nas if it were stared out of countenance by\nthe walls, and one need hardly add that all\nyour friends will delight in a room that throws\nup and brings out their dresses and faces, in-\nstead of killing them by its glaring tints.\nTo prepare the walls, make a size of glue and\nwater, then give the walls a coat of a very\nweak solution of the same. To make a paste,\ntake 2 lb. of fine flour, nut in a pail, add cold\nwater and stir it up together in a thick paste.\nTake a piece of alum about the size of a small\nchestnut, pound it fine and throw it into the\npaste; mix well. Then provide about 6 qt. of\nboiling water and mix while hot with the\npaste until the whole is brought to a proper\nconsistency. This makes an excellent paste,\nand fit for use when cold.\nPaper, Wall.— The following table from\nthe New York Newsdealer shows how many\nrolls of wall paper are required to cover a\nroom of the dimensions indicated by the fig-\nures in the left hand column, also the number\nof yards of border necessary\nSize of Room.\n7X9\n7X9\n7X9\n7X9\n8X10\n8X10\n8X10\n8X10\n9XU\n9X11\n9X11\n9X11\n10X12\n10X12\n10X12\n10X12\n11X12\n11X12\n11X12\n11X12\n12X13\n12X13\n12X13\n12x13.\n12X15 or 13X14.\n12X15 or 13X14.\n12X15 or 13X14.\n12X15 or 13X14.\n13X15\n13X15\n13X15\n13X15\n14X16\n14X16\n14X16\n14X18\n14X18\n14X18\n15X16\n15X17\nSO\nga.SS\ne\n8\n1\n9\n1\n10\n1\n12\nI\n8\n1\n9\n1\n10\n1\n12\n1\n8\n1\n9\n1\n10\n1\n12\n1\n8\n1\n9\n1\n10\n1\n12\n1\n8\n2\n9\n2\n10\n2\n12\n2\n8\n2\n9\n2\n10\n2\n12\n2\n8\n2\n9\n2\n10\n2\n12\n2\n8\n2\n9\n2\n10\n2\n12\n2\n9\n2\n10\n2\n12\n2\n9\n2\n10\n2\n12\n2\n10\n2\n12\n2\nO Sh\nft\n10\n7\n8\n9\nil\n8\n10\n11\n13\n9\n10\n11\n13\nS\n9\n10\n13\n8\n10\n11\n14\n10\n11\n12\n15\n10\n11\n13\n16\n12\n14\n17\n13\n15\n19\n15\n19\nu\n0)\nu O\nc30Q\n11\n11\n11\n11\n12\n12\n13\n12\n14\n14\n14\n14\n15\n15\n15\n15\n16\n16\n16\n16\n17\n17\n17\n17\n18\n18\n18\n18\n19\n19\n19\n19\n20\n20\n20\n22\n21\n22\nDeduct one-half roll of paper for each or-\ndinary door or window extra— size 4x7 feet.\nPapier Mac-lie, to Clean. See Cleans-\ning.\nPapier Mache.— Paper mache is obtained\nfrom old paper and the like made into a pulp\nby grinding with milk of lime or lime water,\nand a little gum dextrin or starch. This pulp\nis then pressed into form, coated with linseed\noil, baked at a high temperature, and finally\nvarnished. The pulp is sometimes mixed with\nclay (kaolin), chalk, etc.; and other kinds are\nmade of a paste of pulp and recently slaked\nlime. This is used for ornamenting wood, etc.\n2. Pulped Paper Moulded into Forms.— It pos-\nsesses great strength and lightness. It may be\nrendered partially water proof by the addition\nof sulphate of iron, quicklime and glue, or\nwhite of egg, to the pulp; and incombustible\nby the addition of borax and phosphate of soda.\nThe papier mache tea trays, waiters, snuff\nboxes, etc., are prepared by pasting or gluing\nsheets of paper together, and submitting them\nto powerful pressure, by which the composi-\ntion acquires the hardness of board when dry.\nSuch articles are afterward japanned, and are\nthen perfectly water proof.\n3. A durable and inexpensive method of em-\nploying papier mache as a substitute for mat-\ntings, carpets, etc., is as follows After the\nfloor has been thoroughly cleaned, the holes\nand cracks are then filled with paper putty,\nmade by soaking newspaper in a paste made of\nwheat flour,water,and ground alum, that is, tol\nlb. of such flour are added 3 qt. of water and a\ntablespoonful of ground alum, these being\nthoroughly mixed. AVith this paste the floor","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0391.jp2"},"388":{"fulltext":"Para III ue.\n376\nPastes.\nis uniformly coated, and upon this a thickness\nof manila or hardware paper is placed, or if two\nlayers are desired, a second covering- of paste is\nspread on the first layer of manila paper, and\nthen the second thickness of paper is put on,\nand the whole allowed to become perfectly dry;\non this being- accomplished another surface of\npaste is added, succeeded by a layer of wall\npaper of any style or pattern desired. On the\nwork becoming entirely dry, it is covered with\ntwo or more coats of sizing, made by dissolv-\ning lb. of white glue in 3 qt. of hot water,\nand when this has dried, a coat of hard oil\nfinish varnish.\n4. Paper is pulped in a mortar (or pulping\nengine) and mixed with ordinary glue size\nthinned somewhat with hot water. Remove\nthe pulp and let it partially drain upon a linen\ncovered frame. Put a quantity of this into the\nmould under strong pressure, and let it remain\nuntil it becomes hard enough to handle. A\ncounter mould is used in casting such thin\nsheets. Plaster moulds are too fragile. Casts in\ntype metal or fusible metal are much better.\nParadise Water. See Waters.\nParaffine Paper. See Paper.\nParchment, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nParchment Glue. See Glues.\nParchment, Liquid.— According to Dr.\nHofmann, a fluid by this name, consisting of\ngutta percha softened and soaked in ether, is\nespecially adapted for forming a coating for\npictures and cards, it permitting the removal\nof dirt with a moist rag. Pencil and crayon\ndrawings may be rendered ineffaceable by\nsprinkling with this liquid by means of an atom-\nizer, an exceedingly delicate film remaining on\nthe evaporation of the ether.\nParchment, to Prevent the Scaling\nof White Pigment on.— Reduce to powder\nand dissolve quickly in cold water a quantity of\ngum tragacanth. There must be sufficient\nwater to give to the diluted gum the consist-\nence of a jelly. Mix with this your pigments\n(sulphate of baryta), and, after finishing the\nwork, spray with a little naphtha in which has\nbeen digested for some time a quantity of\ncaoutchouc. The naphtha will soon evaporate,\nleaving behind the caoutchouc as an extremely\nthin and adhesive, but perfectly transparent,\nfilm.\nParchment, to Color.— 1. Prepare the\nparchment with pounce as for writing. Use\nordinary water colors mixed with alum water.\nThe alum makes the parchment take the paints\nreadily. Go over the part to be painted quickly\nwith the color. It is best to have the parch-\nment on a slanting surface, as then the water\ndoes Hot soak in so much. Parchment does not\ncockle unless wet through.\n2. Green.— Boil 8 parts cream of tartar and\n30 parts of crystallized verdigris in 500 parts\nwater; when this solution is cold, pour into it 4\nparts nitric acid. Moisten the parchment with\na brush, and then apply the above liquid evenly\nover its surface. The necessary surface finish\nis given with white of eggs, or mucilage of gum\narabic.\nParchment, to Smooth.— To smooth\nparchment which has become wrinkled, place\nthe parchment face down upon clean blotting-\npaper. Beat up to a clear froth, with a few\ndrops of clove oil, the whites of several fresh\neggs, and with the fingers spread this over the\nback of the sheet and rub it in until the parch-\nment becomes smooth and yielding. Then\nspread it out as smooth as possible, cover with\noil silk and press for a day. Then remove the\nsilk and cover with a linen cloth and press with\na warm iron.\nParchment, to Make Transparent.—\nSoak a thin skin of parchment in a strong lye\nof wood ashes, often wringing it out until you\nfind it becomes transparent; then strain it on a\nframe and let dry.\nThis will be much improved if, after it is dry\nyou give it a coat, on both sides, of clear mastic\nvarnish, diluted with spirits of turpentine.\nParchment, Vegetable.— Is made by dip-\nping ordinary paper, for a few seconds, into a\nsolution containing one part water to six parts\nsulphuric acid; then washing it carefully, to re-\nmove every trace of acid.\nParfalt Amour. See Liquors,\nParis, Plaster of. See Plaster of Paris.\nParkesine.- Name given to a preparation\nmade by incorporating castor oil, collodion and\nwood spirit. The mixture gradually solidifies\nand finally becomes a hard mass. It is used for\nornamenting combs, knife handles and but-\ntons.\nParlor Matches. See Matches.\nPaste. (Ceramics.) Term applied to clay\neither by itself or mixed with other materials.\nPasteboard, Enamel for. See En-\nameling.\nPaste, German. —Pea meal, 2 lb.; sweet-\nalmonds (blanched), 1 lb.; fresh butter or lard*\nJ41b.; moist sugar, 5 oz.; hay saffron, y% drm.;\nbeat to a smooth paste, adding cold water, q. s.;\ngranulate the mass by passing it through a col-\nander, and expose the product to the air in a\nwarm place until quite hard and dry. The ad-\ndition of two or three eggs improves it. Used\nto feed larks, nightingales and other insect-\nivorous birds. It will keep good for twelve\nmonths in a dry place.\nPaste, Shaving. See Creams,-\nPastes. See also Cements Glues, and\nMucilages. I. Take a quart of water and\ndissolve in it a teaspoon! ul of pure powdered\nalum. Stir into this enough of flour to make a\nthick cream. Break up every little lump of\nflour until the mixture is smooth. Stir in next\na teaspoonful of powdered resin. Now pour in\na cupful of boiling water. Stir it all well.\nWhen the mixture has thickened from cooking-\nby the boiling water, pour into an earthen ves-\nsel. Cover it up and keep it in a cool place.\nAdd a f ew drops oil of cloves. Whenever you\nwant to use any portion of it, take what you\nneed and soften it with a little warm water.\nThis will give you a perfect paste, clean,\nwholesome, and lasting. You will be surprised\nhow little waste you will have. Should you\nneed larger quantities, increase the proportions\nin proper ratio, doubling or trebling each in-\ngredient, according- to the magnitude of the\nbusiness requiring it. American Art Printer.\n2. A solution of 2^ oz. gum arabic in 2 qt.\nwarm water is thickened to a paste with wheat\nflour; to this is added a solution of alum and\nsugar of lead, V/% oz.each in water; the mixture is\nheated and stirred about to boil and is then\ncooled. It may be thinned, if necessary, with\na gum solution.\nAdhesive Paste.— 1. Take 4 oz. common gela-\ntine in small pieces and steep it in 16 oz.\nwater until it becomes soft; then by the aid of\nthe heat of a water bath dissolve it, and while\nstill hot pour into a mixture of 2 lb. good flour\npaste and 1 pt. water. Heat the whole to boiling,\nand when thickened remove from the fire;\nwhile cooling add 6 drm. silicate of soda and\nstir into the mixture with a Avooden spatula.\nThis prepai-ation will keep good for an indefinite\nperiod, and is very adhesive. The addition of\n2 drm. oil of cloves is an improvement.\n2. The following from Dingier s Journal is\nhighly recommended. Let 4 parts by weight of\nglue soften in 15 parts cold, water for fifteen\nhours, after which the mixture is heated until\nclear. Add 65 parts boiling water. In another\nvessel stir 30 parts starch paste in 20 parts\nwater. Into this the glue solution is poured.\nStir wefl, and on cooling add 10 drops carbolic\nacid.\nArtists and Architects, Paste /or.— Boil white\npaper in water for five hours, then pour off the","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0392.jp2"},"389":{"fulltext":"Pastes.\n377\nPastes.\nwater and pound the pulp in a mortal pass it\nthrough a sieve and mix with some gum water\nor isinglass glue. It is used in modeling by\nartists and architects.\nBags, Paste for Manufacture of.— Add to 3\nparts wheat starch 2\\ to 30 parts of cold water,\nstir together to a homogeneous mass of about\nthe thickness of sirup. Pour over this, with\nconstant stirring, boiling water until the paste\nis of the required consistency. Stir until\npartly cold. Take a portion of the paste and\nadd to it Q% to 15% liquefied Venice turpentine,\nrub together until a kind of emulsion is\nformed. Then mix the whole together and\nwork thoroughly.\nBill Sticking Paste. Take flour, 25 lb.; alum\nin powder, lb.; boiling water sufficient quan-\ntity. Paste will not very long resist the action\nof wet weather; but may be made to do so by\ngiving the bill, after sticking it, a wash of soap\nwater, sugar of lead solution, or a solution of\ncrude lac in naphtha.\nChinese Paste. Bullock s blood, 9 parts\nquicklime, 1 part. Beat to a paste. For use,\nbeat it to a proper consistence with water.\nCloth, Paste for.— Use rye flour paste, adding\nto it about Ya the weight of the flour of good\nglue. As the paste is for immediate use there\nis no need of adding alum, gum dextrine, or\nany preservative.\nDextrine Paste.— In hot water dissolve a suffi-\ncient quantity of dextrine to bring it to the\nconsistency of honey. This forms a strong ad-\nhesive paste that will keep a long time un-\nchanged, if the water is net allowed to evapor-\nate. Sheets of paper may be prepared for ex-\ntempore labels by coating one side with the\npaste and allowing it to dry; when to be used,\nby slightly wetting the gummed side, it will\nadhere to glass. This paste is very useful in\nthe office or laboratory.\nDurable Paste.— Four parts by weight of glue\nare allowed to soften in 15 part r cold water for\nsome hours, and then moderately heated till\nthe solution becomes quite slear. Sixty-five\nparts boiling water are now added with stir-\nring. In another vessel 30 parts starch paste\nare stirred up with 20 parts, so that a thin\nmilky fluid is obtained without lumps. Into\nthis the boiling glue solution is poured, with\nconstant stirring and the whole is kept at the\nboiling temperature. After cooling, 10 drops\ncarbolic acid are added. Preserve in tight bot-\ntles.\nEngravings, Paste for.— For this purpose we\nwould recommend the use of a thin paste. A\nmixture of gum tragacanth and gum arabic\nforms with water a thinner mucilage than\neither of these two gums alone. Rice flour is\nsaid to make an excellent paste for fine paper\nwork.\nFlour Paste.— 1. Water, 1 qt.; alum,%oz. Dis-\nsolve, and when cold, add flour to make it of\nthe consistence of cream, then bring it to a\nboil, stirring it all the while.\n2. (Hard).— To the above add a little pow-\ndered resin and a clove or two before boiling.\nThis will keep for twelve months. When dry it\nmay be softened with water.\n3. Paste for Paper Hanging.— Take y 2 quar-\ntern of flour (best biscuit) and put it into a pail,\nwith a small portion of alum, broken up small\nmix it up into a stiff batter with warm water\nhave ready a large saucepan of boiling water,\nand pour it over the paste, stirring well all the\ntime, or it will be lumpy. If properly done,\nit will thicken as the boiling water is poured\nover it if it does not thicken, set it over the\nfire a few minutes, but be sure you stir it, or it\nwill burn. When well thickened, throw a dash\nof cold water over it, as it prevents it skinning\nwhile cooling. Use rather thin. You can thin\nit with cold water.\n4. Mix 1 lb. rye flour in lukewarm water, to\nwhich has been added 1 teaspoonf ul of pulver-\nized alum stir until free of lumps. Boil in the\nregular way or slowly pour on boiling water,\nstoring all the time, until the paste becomes\nstiff. When cold add a full 34 lb. of common\nstrained honey, mix well (regular bee honey,\nno patent mixture). In labeling always paste\nthe tin (or other work) and apply the label.\nGelatine Paste.— A good paste for mounting\nphotographs, etc., can be made of the follow-\ning ingredients Cooking gelatine, 1 oz.; alco-\nhol, 95%, 10 oz.; glycerine, y 2 to 1 oz. Soak\nglycerine in cold water for an hour or more;\ntake out and drain off all the water which will\ngo; add to alcohol in wide mouthed bottle.\nAdd to 1 oz. of glycerine according as gela-\ntine is of a hard or soft kind. Put bottle in\nhot water, with occasional shaking, until gela-\ntine is quite dissolved. Will keep indefinitely,\nand has only to be heated up when wanted for\nuse. This paste is applied rapidly and as thinly\nas possible with a broad bristle (varnish) brush.\nIt is very highly recommended for photogra-\nphers 1 use.\nGlycerine Paste for Office Use.— Dissolve in 6\noz. boiling water 2 oz. gum arabic and 4 drm.\nof glycerine.\nPaste, Gum Arabic— Gum arabic (picked), 1\nlb.; water, 1 pt., 4 oz,; dissolve; add 1 lb. white\nsugar; evaporate by a gentle heat to a very\nthick sirup, then add the whites of 3 eggs,\npreviously beaten up with orange flower\nwater, 1 fl. oz., and strained through muslin,\nand continue the heat with constant stirring,\nuntil of a proper consistence on being cooled.\nUsed as a substitute for marshmallow paste.\nGum Paste.— Ordinary gum paste is made of\npicked gum arabic and white sugar, equal\nparts, and to each pound of gum 1 pt. of water.\nDissolve the gum, add the sugar, and evapor-\nate until it is thick sirup. Then add the whites\nof eggs (about 3 to each pound of gum), pi-e-\nviously beaten up with orange flower water or\nother flavoring; strain through muslin, and\ncontinue the evaporation until it will set readi-\nly when cooled.\nLabeling, Paste f or.— 1. Tragacanth, 1 oz.; gum\narabic, 4 oz.; water, 1 pt. Dissolve, strain, and\nadd thymol, 14 grn.; glycerine, 4 oz.; and water\nto make 2 pt. Shake or stir before using it.\n2. Rye flour, 4 oz.; alum, y oz.; water, 8 oz.\nRub to a smooth paste, pour into a pint of boil-\ning water, heat until thick, and finally add\nglycerine, 1 oz.; and oil of cloves, 30 drops.\n3. Rye flour, 4 oz.; water, 1 pt. Mix, strain,\nadd nitric acid, 1 drm., heat until thickened,\nand finally add carbolic acid, 10 minims; oil\nof cloves, 10 minims and glycerine, 1 oz.\n4. Dextrin, 8 parts; water, 10 parts; acetic\nacid, 2 parts. Mix to a smooth paste, and add\nalcohol, 2 parts. This is suitable for bottles of\nwood, but not for tin, for which the first three\nare likewise adapted.\n5. A paste very similar to 3, but omitting^\nnitric acid and glycerine, is also recommended\nby Dr. H. T. Cummings. Am. Journ. Phar-\nmacy.\n6. A good\nStarch, 2 dr.;\ndi-m.; water,\npaste for labels for specimens:\nwhite sugar, 1 oz.: gum arabic, 2\nq. s. Dissolve the gum, add the\nsugar, and boil until the starch is cooked.\n7. A good paste is made by soaking flake\ntragacanth in sufficient cold water that the\nbrush will not sink into the paste when finished.\nTo prevent souring, add to the water 2 grn.\nhydronaphthol (dissolved in a little alcohol) for\neach pint, and a few drops clove oil for scent.\nTo keep away the flies add some oil of penny-\nroyal. Avoid, in making pastes, oil of winter-\ngreen and carbolic acid, for these produce a\npurplish discoloration by contact with the\ntinned iron of the brush.\n7. Starch paste with which a little Venice-\nturpentine has been incorporated while it is\nwarm.\nSticking Labels to Tinned Plate.— 1. Dissolve\nsome isinglass in acetic acid, and brush the\nlabels over with it. There will be no cause to\ncomplain of their coming off, nor yet of strik-\ning through the paper. Take a wide-mouthed","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0393.jp2"},"390":{"fulltext":"Pastes.\n378\nPastes.\nbottle, fill about two-thirds with commercial\nacetic acid, and put in as much isinglass as the\nliquid will hold, and set aside in a warm place Un-\ntil completely dissolved. When cold it should\nform a jelly. To use it, place the bottle in hot\nwater. The cork should be a well fitting sound\none, and smeared with vaseline or melted paraf-\nfine.\nSee also Mucilages for Tin Plate.\n2. Soften good glue in water; then boil it with\nstrong vinegar, and thicken the liquid, during\nboiling, with fine wheat flour, so that a paste\nresults.\n3. Starch paste, with which a little Venice\nturpentine has been incorporated while it was\nwarm.\n4. T. A. Richardson, the architect, recom-\nmends to every 2 tablespoonf uls of the best\nwheat flour to add a teaspoonf ul of common\nmoist or brown sugar, and a few drops cor-\nrosive sublimate; the whoie to be boiled, and\ncontinually stirred to prevent getting lumpy,\ntill of the right thickness. To prevent mouldi-\nness, a few drops of some essential oil, as laven-\nder or peppermint. This paste is used to make\ndifferent thicknesses of cardboard. In putting\nor jointing together, he recommends 6 oz. gum\narabic (best), 1 oz. or less of moist or lump\nsugar, 1 teaspoonful of lavender or other es-\nsential oil, and a tablespoonful of gin; the\nwhole to be mixed in cold water to the con-\nsistency of a thick sirup, no heat being in any\nway applied.\n5. Dissolve 180 grn. of best French glue in 180\ngrn. of water by soaking and heating. Then\nadd a solution of 1 grn. of shellac in 6 grn. of\nalcohol, and stir well as long as the solution is\nwarm. Mix also 35 grn. of dextrine in 50 grn. of\nalcohol and 25 grn. of water; stir it well in a\nbeaker and place it into warm water until the\nsolution is completed and has acquired a clear\nbrown color. Mix this solution with that of\nthe glue, and pour the whole into a suitable\nform in which it may solidify. When wanted\nfor use, cut off a small piece and liquefy it by\nwarming.\n6. Soften glue in cold water, and dissolve it\nin strong vinegar. Mix with it a quantity of\ndry starch about equal to the glue taken, first\nhaving boiled it with water sufficient to form a\npaste.\n7. Labels on Machines, Paste for.— A paste or\nmucilage to resist damp may be made as fol-\nlows Prepare a paste of good rye flour and\nglue, to which linseed oil varnish and turpen-\ntine have been added in the proportion of y% oz.\neach to the lb.\n8. Paste to Make Labels Adhere to Metals.—\nWater, lpt.; borax, 1 oz.; shellac, 5 oz.; boil un-\ntil *he latter is dissolved. Thin with boiling-\nwater. If necessary use hot.\nPaste, London.— Mix equal parts of unslaked\nlime and caustic soda; mix intimately after re-\nducing to a tine powder in a warm mortar.\nKeep the mixture in an air tight bottle and\nmix up with water as required for use.\nPaste Paper.— Boil white paper in water for\nfive hours; then pour off the water, and pound\nthe pulp in a mortar; pass it through a sieve\nand mix with some gum water or isinglass\nglue. It is used in modeling.\nPaper Hangers, Paste for.— We believe the\nbest paper hangers paste, as well as a paste for\ngeneral purposes, is simply wheat or rye flour\nbeaten in cold water to perfect smoothness,\nand the whole just brought to a boil, while be-\ning constantly stirred to prevent burning. A\nlittle creosote, or carbolic acid, will make it keep\nmuch better. Any addition to this paste fails\nto improve it.\nMatrix, Paste for.— A correspondent once\nwrote: After considerable experiment I have\nsucceeded in making a paste for matrices that\ngives us from 40 to 80 casts, average perhaps 5u\nto each matrix. I use two ounces of French\ngelatine dissolved in vinegar, then add to this\n1 oz. alum and 1 qt. hot water. In a separate\nvessel dissolve 1 lb. starch in cold water. Then\nbring the water in which is dissolved the gela-\ntine and alum to boiling point, and gradually\nstir in the dissolved starch, stirring all the\ntime to prevent lumps. Boil half an hour,\nstirring all the time; when cold, to a pint of\npaste add water and 1 oz. of Spanish white to\nmake matrix; use enough water to the paste so\nas to spread well.\nPasting and Folding Machine, Paste for.— Four\nparts, by weight, of glue are allowed to soften\nin 15 parts of cold water for some hours, and\nthen moderately heated until the solution be-\ncomes quite clear; 65 parts of boiling water are\nnow added, with stirring. In another vessel 30\nparts of starch paste are stirred up with i0\nparts of cold water, so that a thin milky fluid\nis obtained without lumps. Into this the boil-\ning glue solution is poured, with constant stir-\nring, and the whole is kept at the boiling tem-\nperature. After cooling, 10 drops of carbolic\nacid are added to the paste. This paste is of\nextraordinary adhesive power, and rnay be used\nfor leather, cardboard, etc., as well as for\npaper. The paste in the reservoir should be\nkept from the air as much as possible to avoid\nloss of water by evaporation.\nPads, Paste for.— The composition is said to\nbe prepared as follows: Glue, 41b.; glycerine,\n2 lb.; linseed oil, lb.; sugar, y± lb.; aniline\ndyes, q. s. to color. The glue is softened by\nsoaking it in a little cold water, then dissolved\ntogether with the sugar in the glycerine, by\naid of heat over a water bath. To this the\ndyes are added, after which the oil is well\nstirred in. It is used hot. Another composi-\ntion of a somewhat similar nature is prepared\nas follows Glue, 1 lb.; glycerine, 4 oz.; glucose\nsirup, about 2 tablespoonfuls; tannin, one-\ntenth oz. Give the compositions an hour or\nmore in which to dry or set before cutting or\nhandling the pads.\nPaper, Paste for.— A y± of an oz. crude gutta\npercha dissolved in carbon disulphide to the\nconsistency of mucilage. Apply to the edges of\nthe paper where required.\nPlwtographs, Paste for.— In the Photographic\nTimes Mr. W. H. Gardner collects together a\nnumber of formulas of various mountants, of\nwhich we give the following\n1. Gelatine Mountant.\nCooking gelatine 1 oz.\nAlcohol, 95% 10 oz.\nGlycerine to 1 oz.\nSoak gelatine in cold water for an hour or\nmore, take out and drain off all the water which\nwill go, add to alcohol in wide mouthed bottle.\nAdd Yz to 1 oz. glycerine, according as gelatine\nis of a hard or soft kind. Put bottle in hot\nwater, with occasional shaking, until gelatine\nis quite dissolved. Will keep indefinitely, and\nhas only to be heated when wanted for use.\n2. Nelson s No. 1 photographic gela-\ntine 4 oz.\nWater hi oz.\nGlycerine 1 oz.\nAlcohol 5 oz.\nDissolve the gelatine in the water, then add\nthe glycerine, and lastly the alcohol.\n3. Permanent paste.\nArrowroot 10 parts.\nWater 100 parts.\nGelatine 1 part.\nAlcohol 10 parts.\nSoak the gelatine in the water, add the arrow-\nroot, which has first been thoroughly mixed\nwith a small quantity of the water, and boil\nfour or five minutes. After cooling add the al-\ncohol and a few drops of carbolic acid or oil of\ncloves.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0394.jp2"},"391":{"fulltext":"Pastes.\n379\nPastes.\n4. Another.—\nBest Bermuda arrowroot 1%, oz.\nSheet gelatine or best Russian\nglue 80 grn.\nWater 15 oz.\nMethylated spirit 1 oz.\nPut the arrowroot into a small pan, add 1 oz.\nwater and mix it thoroughly up with a spoon,\nor the ordinary mounting brush, until it is like\nthick cream; then add 14 oz. water and the gel-\natine broken into small fragments. Boil for\nfour or five minutes, set it aside until partially\ncold, then add the methylated spirit and six\ndrops of pure carbolic acid. Be very particular\nto add the spirit in a gentle stream, stirring\nrapidly all the time. Keep it in a corked stock\nbottle and take out as much as may be re-\nquired for the time and work it up nicely with\nthe brush.\n5. Starch Paste.— Pour cold water on good\nlaundry starch to barely moisten it. Then stir\nin cold water until proper consistency is\nreached. Squeeze through canvas if not free\nfrom lumps. Starch paste should be freshly\nmade for each batch of prints.\n6. Allow 4 parts by weight of hard gelatine\nto soften in 15 parts of water for several hours,\nand then moderately heat until the solution is\nquite clear, when 65 parts of boiling water\nshould be added while stirring. Stir in another\nvessel 30 parts starch paste with 20 parts cold\nwater, so that a thin milky fluid is obtained\nwithout lumps. Into this the boiling gelatine\nsolution should be poured while constantly\nstirring and the whole kept at a boiling tem-\nperature. When cool add to the whole 10 drops\ncarbolic acid to prevent souring. This makes\nvery tenacious paste.\n7. Casein Mucilage. Heat milk with a little\ntartaric acid, whereby casein is separated.\nTreat the latter while still moist with a solu-\ntion of 6 parts borax to 100 parts water and\nwarm gently while Stirling, which will cause\nthe casein to be dissolved. Of the borax solu-\ntion enough should be used to leave only a\nlittle undissolved casein behind.\n8. Good Mounting Paste.— Add to 250 c. cm.\nconcentrated gum solution, 2 parts gum to 5\nparts water, a solution of 1 grm. sulphate\nalumina in 20 c. cm. water. Alum does not an-\nswer the purpose as well. The addition of the\nsulphate is effective, in that this gum is not so\nreadily softened by moisture, and besides,\nwood can be fastened to wood by means of it.\nIts adhesive qualities are, in general, greater\nthan those of pure gum arabic.\n9. Impervious Paste.— Soak ordinary glue in\nwater until it softens, remove it before it has\nlost its original shape, and dissolve in ordinary\nlinseed oil on a gentle fire until it acquires the\nconsistency of a jelly. This paste may now be\nused for all kinds of substances, as, besides\nstrength and hardness, it possesses also the ad-\nvantage of resisting the action of water.\n10. Thin Mucilage.— A paste that will not draw\nengravings when pasted down on paper must\nbe thin. A mixture of equal parts of gum\ntragacanth and gum arabic forms with water\na thinner mucilage than either one alone.\n11. Liquid Glue.— With any desired quantity\nof glue use ordinary whisky instead of water.\nBreak the glue in small fragments and intro-\nduce these into a suitable glass vessel, and pour\nthe whisky over them. Cork tightly, and set\naside for three or four days, when it will be\nready for use. The Avhisky must not be too\nstrong, and a little heat is generally required.\n12. Another.— Same as above, except that\nacetic acid is used in place of whisky, and that\nthe bottle containing ingredients must be\nplaced in hot water to dissolve the glue.\n13. Another.—\nGlue 8 oz.\nWater 8 oz.\nNitric acid. 2}^ oz.\nDissolve the glue in the water by immersing\n-vessel containing same ia hot water. When\nsolution is effected, add the acid. Effervescence\nwill take place with the evolution of orange\nnitrous fumes. Now cool. It should be kept\nin a well stoppered bottle, and will remain per-\nmanently liquid.\nRemarks.— As regards the formulas collected\nby Mr. Gardner, we may remark, says the\nPhoto. Review, that of the above, Nos. 13, 12, and\n9 are quite unfit for mounting silver prints,\nalthough they may be useful for other work in\nthe studio; Nos. 12 and 13 for cardboard and\nlight woodwork, where the presence of acid is\nnot likely to be detrimental; and No. 9 (which\nis really an emulsion of glue and linseed oil,\nand requires well beating together) for cement-\ning articles likely to be exposed to damp.\nStrips of cloth used to make the developing\nroom light-tight may well be cemented with\nNo. 9, especially if 10 grn. finely powdered bi-\nchromate of potash be stirred into each ounce\njust before use.\nThe desirability of employing Nos. 7 and 8 as\nmountants for silver prints is open to doubt,\nalthough these are excellent for cementing all\nsuch ordinary materials as come under the\ndenomination of stationery.\nWe thus have left adhesives Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6,\nand 10 as quite safe for silver prints if good\nmaterials are used, and do not become decom-\nposed subsequently. Gelatinous mountants\nmade with a considerable proportion of alco-\nhol, like No. 1 or No. 11, have the advantage of\nnot considerably stretching either mount or\nprint, and are especially useful when prints\n(whether silver or Woodbury type) have to be\nmounted on thin card, as book illustrations.\nIn the case of Nos. 2, 3, 4, the alcohol is used\nmainly as an antiseptic, and is not present in\nsufficient quantity to have much influence as a\npreventive of stretching or cockling. The\nsimple starch paste, No. 5, is not satisfactory\nin all instances, owing to want of sufficient ad-\nhesion, in which case it is an excellent plan to\nadopt No. 6, in which starch and gelatine are\nused together.\n14. The following has been suggested as a\nvery desirable substitute for the ordinary\npastes used for mounting photo, prints. It is\nsaid that it can be used so as to scarcely swell\nthe paper at all, avoiding the objectionable\ncockling so much complained of\nThick, well boiled, clear starch\n(corn) paste 1 lb.\nGlucose sirup A clear) 7 oz.\nWhite curd soap Y% oz.\nDextrine, flowered 5 oz.\nBorax oz.\nClove oil a few drops.\nAll are heated over the water bath, and\nthinned down to a proper consistence (if thin\npaste is required) with fresh skimmed milk. It\nis advisable to use the paste warm and as thick\nas possible.\n15. Nelson s No. 1 photographic gela-\ntine 1 gr.\nWater 16 oz.\nGlycerine 1 oz.\nMethylated alcohol 5 oz.\nDissolve the gelatine in warm water, then\nadd the glycerine, and finally the spirit.\nScrap Book*, Paste for.— Rice starch, 1 oz.;\ngelatine, 3 drm.; water, y pt.; heat, with con-\nstant stirring, until the milky liquid becomes\nthick and glassy, when the paste is ready.\nKeep the paste in a tight bottle with a few\ndrops of clove oil.\nSkins, Glue or Paste for.— Get a pound of rye\nflour, put it in a basin and pour enough boiling\nwater to make a stiff paste. It must be made\nalmost as stiff as ordinary dough for puddings,\nbut not quite. Stir, and beat up well with a\nstick for three or four minutes, then cover up,\nand put by for two days before using, when it","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0395.jp2"},"392":{"fulltext":"Pastils.\n380\nPastils.\nwill be much softer and stick better. Spread\nthinly and evenly on back of skin with a stiff\nbrush or pad; this will stick firmly and will\nnot crack.\nStereotypers Paste.— Take 5 oz. flour, 7 oz.\nwhite starch, a large tablespoonful powdered\nalum, and 4 qt. water. Put the flour, starch\nand alum into a saucepan, and mix with a little\nof the water, cold, until the whole becomes of\nthe consistency of thick cream. Then gradu-\nally add the remainder of the water, which\nmust be boiling stirring well meanwhile to\nprevent lumps. Put the mixture over the Are,\nand stir until it boils then let it stand until\nquite cold, when it should look like jelly.\nWhen you are ready for work add Spanish\nwhiting, the mixture not to be too stiff to\nspread readily with the paste brush. Put\nthrough a fine wire sieve with a stiff brush,\nand it is ready for use.\nStickfast Paste.—\nWheaten flour 1 oz.\nPowdered tragacanth oz.\nPowdered gum arabic 34 oz.\nSalicylic acid 30 grn.\nOil of wintergreen 3 drops.\nWater 13 oz.\nMix the powders and gradually add the\nwater then bring to the boil allow to simmer\nfor twenty minutes, stirring constantly. When\ncold add the oil.\nSugar and Lime Paste.— White sugar, 4 parts\nwater, 9 parts slaked lime, 1 part. The lime is\npoured in after the sugar has been brought to\nthe boiling point in the water. After standing\nfor several days the thick liquid is poured off.\nTin Foil, Paste for Fastening Paper upon.—\nMake a paste by dissolving rye flour in a solu-\ntion of caustic soda, dilute with water, stirring-\nall the time. Add to this paste Venetian tur-\npentine—a few drops for each lb. flour. Ad-\nheres firmly to all metals, tin foil, glass, etc.\nPastils, Fumigating.— Indian or Yelloic.\nSantal wood in powder, 1 lb.; gum benzoin, V/%\nlb.; gum tolu, V\\ lb.; otto of santal, otto of cas-\nsia, otto of cloves, of each 3 dr.; nitrate of\npotass., V/i oz.; mucilage of tragacanth, q. s.,\nto make the whole into a stiff paste. The ben-\nzoin santal wood and tolu are to be powdered,\nand mixed by sifting them, adding the ottos.\nThe niter being dissolved in, the mucilage is\nthen added. After well beating in a mortar the\npastils are formed in shape with a pastel mould,\nand gradually dried.\nThe following are examples of these articles,\nfrom which the operator will be able to devise\nothers\n1. Gum benzoin, powdered 4 oz.\nCascarilla, powdered 1 oz.\nNiter, powdered oz.\nGum tragacanth, powdered 3 dr.\nCharcoal, powdered J4 lb.\nOil of nutmeg fl. dr.\nOil of cloves y z 11. dr.\nbeat them to a stiff, ductile mass, with\nCold water q. s.\nmould it and dry the pastils by exposure to the\nair. The product may be varied by omitting\none, or both, the essential oils or oy the addi-\ntion of a little styrax (liquid or in tears), or\nbalsam of Peru. Some persons add 1 to 2 dr. of\nmyrrh.\n2. Gum benzoin 4 oz.\nSandal wood, white 1 oz.\nBalsam of tolu 1 oz.\nGum arabic Yz oz.\nNiter 34 oz.\nGum tragacanth 34 oz.\nLabdanum, true 34 oz.\nCharcoal, linden 12 oz.\nCinnamon water, to mix 12 oz. or q. s.\nand proceed as before. This is the formula of\nMM. Henry and Guibourt. That of the Paris\nCodex is similar, except that the powdered\ntragacanth and gum arabic are .omitted and\nthe mass beaten up with thin mucilage of\ntragacanth, instead of with cinnamon water.\n3. Gum benzoin 2 oz.\nOlibanum, in tears, 1J4 oz.\nStyrax, in tears 1 oz.\nCascarilla oz.\nGum tragacanth oz.\nNiter 2 oz.\nCharcoal 1*4 lb.\nmix and beat them up with water or rose wa-\nter.\n4. Charcoal 1% lb.\nNiter 2 oz.\nGum tragacanth 1 oz.\nmix in the dry state. It is used as a basis for\nthe following French pastils, as well as many\nothers\n5. Pastilles aux Fleurs d Oranges.— To each\nlb. of No. 3 or 4 add of—\nOrange powder, genuine .2J4 oz.\nNeroli 1 fl. dr.\nand beat up the mass with eau de fleurs d Or-\nanges.\nG. Pastilles a, la Rose.— To each lb of No. 3 or\n4 add of\nPale rose powder 3 oz.\nEssence of roses 2 fl. dr.\nand beat up the mass with eau do rose.\n7.— Pastilles a la Vanille.— To each lb. of No.\n3 or 4, usually the first, add of—\nVanilla, in fine powder 2 oz.\nCloves, in fine powder oz.\nEssence of vanilla fl. oz.\nOil of cloves fl. dr.\nOil of cassia j| fl. dr.\nand beat up the mass with cinnamon water.\nThe Druggists Circular gives the following,\nrecipes, both of which are excellent:\n1. Take benzoin 2 oz».\nBalsam of tolu 4 dr.\nYellow sandal wood 4 dr.\nNiter 2 dr.\nLabdanum 1 dr.\nCharcoal 6 oz.\nMix with a solution of gum tragacanth, and\ndivide the mass into pastilles, cone shaped, and\ndry them in the air. The foregoing is the\nformula of the Paris Codex.\n2. Take benzoin 4 oz.\nCascarilla 34 oz.\nNiter 3 dr.\nGum arabic 3 dr.\nMyrrh 1 dr.\nOil of nutmeg 25 drp.\nOil of cloves 25 drp.\nCharcoal 7 oz.\nAll in fine powder. Beat them to a smooth\nmass with cold water, q. s., and form into small\ncones and dry in the air.\nFumigating Rods.—l. Gum benzoin, 6 parts;\nbalsam of tolu and powdered sandal wood, each\n4 parts; powdered tragacanth and labdanum,\neach 1 part; powdered niter and gum ai abic,\neach2 parts; cinnamon, 12 parts; light charcoal\n(linden), 48 parts. Form into smooth ductile\nmass by aid of heat, moi Id and cool.\n2. Gum benzoin, olibanum, and styrax (tears),\neach 12 oz.: niter, 9 oz.; charcoal, 4 lb.; moist-\nened with solutiou of 2 oz. tragacanth in 1 qt.\nof rose water. To this may be added, if de-\nsired, essence of roses, pure neroli or orange\npowder, 1 oz. Oils of cloves and nutmeg, es-\nsence of vanilla, cascarilla, etc., are sometimes\nadded in addition to the foregoing.\nA Cheap Fumigator.— The following will be\nfound to be a cheap and pleasant fumigator\nfor sick rooms, diffusing a healthful, agreeable\nand highly penetrating disinfectant odor in\nclose apartments, or wherever the air is dete-\nriorated. Pour common vinegar on powdered\nchalk until effervescence ceases, leave the","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0396.jp2"},"393":{"fulltext":"Pastils.\n38i\nPencils.\nwhole to settle, and pour off the liquid. Dry\nthe sediment and place it in a shallow earthen\nor glass dish, and pour upon it sulphuric acid\nuntil white fumes commence arising. This\nvapor quickly spreads, is very agreeably pun-\ngent, and acts as a powerful purifier of viti-\nated air.\nPastils (Piesse l s). Willow charcoal, 341b.; ben-\nzoic acid, 6 oz.; otto of thyme, otto of caraway,\notto of rose, otto of lavendar, otto of cloves,\notto of santal, of each 34 drm.; grain musk, 1\ndrm.; pure civet, 34 drm. Prior to mixing dis-\nsolve oz. niter in 34 pt. of distilled water;\nwith this solution thoroughly wet the charcoal\nand then allow it to dry in a warm place.\nWhen well mixed by sifting, it is finally beaten\nup in a mortar, with enough mucilage to bind\nthe whole together; the less that is used the\nbetter.\nFumigating Pastils for Mosquitoes.—\nCharcoal 1 lb.\nSaltpeter 2 oz.\nCarbolic acid 134 oz.\nPersian insect powder 8 oz.\nTragacanth mucilage. q. s.\nIncense.—\n1. Olibanum (true) 7 parts.\nGum benzoin 2 parts.\nMix.\n2. To the last add of\nCascarilla 1 part.\nThe preceding, placed on a hot iron plate or\nburned in a censer, were formerly used to per-\nfume apartments. The incense used in the\nrites of the Roman Catholic Church and in the\ntemples of India consists wholly or chiefly of\nolibanum.\nIncense PoiMers.--Santal wood powder, 1 lb.;\ncascarilla bark powder, 34 lb.; benzoin, 34 lb.;\nvitivert, 2 oz.; nitrate of potass (saltpeter), 2\noz.; grain musk, 34 drm. Sift the whole well\ntogether several times through a fine sieve.\nPerfume Lamps.— Eau a Bruler. Hungary\nwater or eau de cologne, 1 pt.; tincture of ben-\nzoin, 2 oz.; tincture of vanilla, 1 oz.; otto of\nthyme, otto of mint, otto of nutmeg, of each,\n34 drm.\nEau pour Bruler. Alcohol, 1 pt.; benzoic\nacid, 34 oz.; otto of thyme, otto of caraway, of\neach, 1 drm.; otto o bergamot, 2 oz.\nOpium Pastil.— Saltpeter 450 parts; pulver-\nized althea, 450 parts; pulverized opium, 2934\nparts. Mix with water to form a paste. Make\ninto pastils.\nRibbon of Bruges.—\n1. Orris tincture 34 pt-\nGum myrrh 34 oz.\nGum benzoin 2 oz.\n2. Alcohol 34 Pt.\nPod musk 34 oz.\nOtto rose 34 drm.\nCork both bottles and leave them one month.\nTake 100 yd. of cotton tape and dip it in a hot\nsolution; saltpeter, 1 oz.; water, 34 pt.; dry it.\nFilter the two tinctures, mix, dip tape in it, and\ndry it. It is then ready for use.\nTar Pastils.— Saltpeter, 420 parts; pulverized\nalthea, 4^0 parts; tar, 360 parts. Form into a\npaste without water.\nTurkish Pastil Lozenges.— For the use of\nsmokers, or to prevent the taste of medicine.\nFine sugar, 4 lb.; citric acid, 4 drm.; otto of\nroses, 5 drops; grain musk, 4 grn.; otto of viti-\nvert, 34 drm. Gum tragacanth dissolved in\nwater, enough to form the whole into a paste,\ntinted with liquid lake.\nPastilles, Mouth. See Breath.\nPate-sur- Pate. Term applied to slip\npainting. This decoration is much used in\nFrance.\nPatterns, Composition for. See Com-\npositions.\nPatterns, Varnish for. See Varnishes.\nPearls, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nPearl Buttons, to Dye. See Dyeing.\nPearl, Mother of, Imitation— 1. Small\narticles may be made of imitation mother of\npearl by producing the articles in horn, which\nis boiled in a solution of sugar of lead, and\nthen laid in very dilute hydrochloric acid.\n2. Combs, to which the boiling process is not\napplicable, as it distorts the teeth, may be\ntreated by being kept overnight in a moder-\nately concentrated cold solution of nitrate of\nleaa, then laid for a quarter to half an hour in a\nbath containing 3% nitric acid, and finally being\nrinsed in water. The use of sugar of lead is,\nhowever, prejudicial, and should be avoided.\nTo give to Articles the Luster of Mother-of-\nPearl.— Make a solution of copal, 1 part; san-\ndarac, 1 part; solution of dammar, 2 parts;\nrosin, 34 part; absolute alcohol, 34 part. Mix\nthese ingredients w th 34 their volume of oil of\nbergamot or rosemary. Distill until it is re-\nduced to the consistency of castor oil. Take a\nvessel which is a .ittle larger than the article to\nbe coated fill with water to which has been\nadded about 5% of pure glue solution. Apply\nthe varnish with a f eather or brush to the sur-\nface of the water a beautiful iridescent film\nwill be formed, .which is laid on the articles to\nbe made iridescent. Keep the water at a tem-\nperature of about 70° F.\nPearls, to Polish. See Polishing.\nPearl Powders. See Powders.\nPearl, Working of.— There are two\nkinds of shells used in the manufacture of\nsmall articles; the porcelainous and the na-\ncreous. The former are extremely hard, and\ncan be worked only with the apparatus em-\nployed by the lapidary. The latter are more\ngenerally used, and may be sawn, filed, and\nturned, with some facility. The pieces should\nbe roughed out on a common grindstone.\nAfter turning, they should be smoothed with\npumice stone and water, and polished with\nrotten stone wet with sulphuric acid slightly\ndiluted.\nPeneilss Aniline.— The materials used are\naniline, graphite, and kaolin, in different pro-\nportions. Made into a paste with cold water,\nthey are pressed through a screen that divides\nthe mass into slender sticks used in filling the\npencils. When dry the sticks are fitted to the\nwooden parts, and glued together in the usual\nway. They may be used in copying, marking in\npermanent color, and in reproducing writiagor\ndesigns. In copying a thin sheet of moistened\npaper is laid over the letter, design or docu-\nment, and the lines are traced with the pencils.\nThe action of the water on the aniline gives a\ndeep, fast tracing, resembling ink in color. On\nordinary dry paper they give a mark which can-\nnot be removed by India rubber. Moistened\nsheets of paper laid over the writing under a\nslight pressure will transfer good impressions\nthat do not blurr.\nA Benzine Pencil.— A device recently patented\nin England for the purpose of removing grease\nfrom gloves or fabrics {Pharmaceutical Era)\nconsists of a cylindrical body about the size of\nof an ordinary lead pencil, containing benzine.\nAt each end there is a thick piece of felt, one\npiece being intended to be moistened by the\nbenzine, while the other end of the pencil is\nkept perfectly dry to take up the superfluous\nmoisture. The device is said to be very handy\nand useful.\nPencils. Colored, for Glass.— The following for-\nmulas for the composition of pencils for sketch-\ning on glass, porcelain, etc., are those used at\nthe factory of A. W. Faber, of Stein, near Niirn-\nberg, Germany\n1— Black-\nLampblack 10 parts.\nWhite wax 40 parts.\nTaliow 10 parts.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0397.jp2"},"394":{"fulltext":"Pencils.\nPercolation.\n2.— White-\nZinc white 40 parts.\nWhite wax 20 parts.\nTallow 10 parts.\n3.— Light Blue.-\nPrussian blue 10 parts.\nWhite wax 20 parts.\nTallow 10 parts.\n4— Dark Blue.\nPrussian blue 15 parts.\nGum arabic 5 parts.\nTallow 10 parts.\n5.— Yellow.—\nChrome vellow 10 parts.\nWax 20 parts.\nTallow. 10 parts.\nThe colors are mixed with the fats in warmed\nvessels, levigated with the same, and are then\nallowed to cool until they have acquired the\nproper consistency for being cransf erred to the\npresses. In these the mass is treated and shaped\nsimilarly as the graphite in the presses for ordi-\nnary pencils.\nIndelible Pencils.— 1. Reduce nitrate of silver\nto an impalpable powder, add just enough lamp-\nblack to give it a black color and enough of a\nthick solution of gum arabic in hot water to\nmake the powder coherent. Rub these in-\ngredients well together, form into thin sticks\nand dry.\n2. Kaolin 8parts.\nFinely powdered manganese di-\noxide 2 parts.\nSilver nitrate 3 parts.\nMix and knead intimately with 5 parts dis-\ntilled water, then dry the mass and inclose it in\nwood. Transfer paper is made by rubbing\nwhite paper with a composition of 2 oz. tallow,\ny% oz. powdered black lead, 34 pt- linseed oil and\nsufficient lampblack to make it of consistency\nof cream. These should be melted together\nand rubbed while hot on the paper. When dry\nit will be fit for use.\nIndelible Pencil Writing. Lay the writing in\na shallow dish and pour skimmed milk upon it.\nAny spots not wet at first may have the milk\nplaced upon them lightly with a feather. When\nthe paper is wet all over with the milk take it\nup and let the milk drain off and remove with\nthe feather the drops which collect on the lower\nedge. Dry carefully.\nCutting Pencils.- Tf the point is intended for\nsketching it is cut equally from all sides, to pro-\nduce a perfectly acute cone. If this be used\nfor line drawing the tip will be easily oroken,\nor otherwise it soon wears thick; uhus, it is\nmuch better for line drawing to have a thin\nflatTDOint. The general manner of proceeding\nis, first, to cut the pencil, from two sides only,\nwith a long slope, so as to produce a Kind of\nchisel end, and afterward to cut the other\nsides away only sufficient to be able to round\nthe first edge a little. A point cut in the man-\nner described may be kept in good order for\nsome time by pointing the lead upon a small\npiece of fine sandstone or fine glass paper; this\nwill be less trouble than the continual applica-\ntion of the knife, which is always liable to\nbreak the extreme edge.\nFaker s Pencils.— Faber s pencil for copying\nwriting or designs is made of different degrees\nof hardness, and is stated by the inventor to\ncombine all the advantages of the very best\nlead pencils. Four kinds are manufactured.\nNo. 1, very soft; composed of 50 parts aniline,\n37*5 parts graphite and 12*5 kaolin. No. 2, soft;\n46 parts aniline, 34 parts graphite, 24 parts kao-\nlin. No. 3, hard; 30 parts aniline, 30 parts graph-\nite, 40 parts kaolin. No. 4, very hard; 25 parts\naniline, 25 parts graphite, 50 parts kaolin.\nThese materials are pounded and mixed with\nthe greatest care, and afterward made into a\npaste with cold water. After the paste has\nbeen well worked and rendered perfectly homo-\ngeneous, it is passed through a wire screen,\nwhich divides it into strips of suitable dimen-\nsions. These are dried in an ordinary room,\nand afterward fitted and glued into wooden\ncases like common lead pencils.\nPencil Marks, to Fix.— I. To a saturated solu-\ntion of alum in pure water, add as much fish\nglue, isinglass, as may form a size of the proper-\nconsistency, which can only be regulated by\nthe character of the drawing for which it is\nintended. Let the solution stand for about\nthirty-six hours, after which it should be boiled,\nand when cold, passed through a linen cloth.\nAdd about an equal quantity of some colorless\nspirits or diluted alcohol. Put the solution in\na dish or wooden tray and, holding the drawing\nhorizontally, face downward, gently immerse\nit therein, and almost immediately lift it out,\nwithout changing its horizontal position, in\nwhich it must remain till dry.\n2. To 1 part dammar varnish add 25 parts tur-\npentine. Flow the drawings with this and let\nthem dry. Or use skimmed milk and water\nmixed in equal parts, applied with a brush.\nNew Pencilas a Substitute for Ink.— We do not\nrefer here to the aniline pencils, which have been\nin use for some time, but to a quite different\npencil, which gives a very black writing, capa-\nble of being reproduced by the copying ma-\nchine, and which does not fade on exposure to\nlight. The mass for these pencils is prepared\nas follows 10 lb. of the best logwood are re-\npeatedly boiled in 10 gal. water, straining each\ntime. The liquid is then evaporated down till\nit weighs 100 lb., and i» then allowed to boil in a\npan of stoneware or enamel. To the boiling*\nliquid nitrate of oxide of chrome is added in\nsmall quantities, until the bronze colored pre-\ncipitate formed at first is redissolved with a\ndeep blue coloration. This solution is then\nevaporated in the water bath down to a sirup,\nwith which is mixed well kneaded clay in the\nproportion of 1 part of clay to 3)4 of extract. A\nlittle gum tragacanth is also added to obtain\na proper consistence.\nIt is absolutely necessary to use the salt of\nchrome in the right proportion. An excess of\nthis salt gives a disagreeable appearance to the\nwriting, while if too little is used the black mat-\nter is not sufficiently soluble.\nThe other salts of chrome cannot be used in\nthis preparation, as they would crystallize, and\nthe writing would scale off as it dried.\nThe nitrate of oxide of chrome is prepared\nby precipitating a hot solution of chrome alum\nwith a suitable quantity of carbonate of soda.\nThe precipitate is washed till the filtrate is free\nfrom sulphuric acid. The precipitate thus ob-\ntained is dissolved in pure nitric acid, so as to\nleave a little still undissolved. Hence the solu-\ntion contains no free acid, which would give the\nink a dirty red color. Oxalic acid and caustic\nalkalies do not attack the writing. Dilute\nnitric acid reddens, but does not obliterate the\ncharacters.— Moniteur Scicntifique.\nPencils for Marking Linen— Mix 4 parts pow-\ndered pyrolusite with 16 parts of thoroughly\ndried alumina. Add to this a solution of 6\nparts nitrate of silver in 10 parts distilled water.\nRub and knead the mass thoroughly. Pencils\nare formed from this and dried. Used for\nmarking linen.\nPencils, Striping.— To keep striping pencils in\ngood shape and ready for use, grease them with\ntallow from a candle and spread the hair\nstraight on a piece of glass keep them pre-\nserved from dust.\nPepperinuit Cordial. See Liquors.\nPercolation, or Displacement.— This is the\nneatest and most rapid process for extracting\nthe soluble principles from vegetable sub-\nstances, and is the method directed in the U. S.\nPharmacopoeia for preparing a large number\nof the officinal tinctures, wines, vinegars, sirups,\nextracts and some of the infusions. It is neces-\nsary that the articles to be acted upon should\nfirst be reduced to the condition of a coarse","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0398.jp2"},"395":{"fulltext":"Perfumery.\n383\nPerfumery.\npowder; then mix them together in the pro-\nportions demanded by the recipe, and moisten\nthe mass thoroughly with alcohol, allowing- it\nto macerate for twelve hours in a well covered\nvessel. Next introduce them into the perco-\nlator, and slightly press them upon the par-\ntition. Any portion of the liquid used in the\nmaceration, not absorbed by the powder,\nshould be poured upon the mass in the instru-\nment and allowed to percolate. Next gradu-\nally pour into the percolator sufficient of the\nalcohol, or other liquid to be filtered, to drive\nbefore it or displace the liquid contained in\nthe mass. The portion introduced must in like\nmanner be displaced by another portion, and\nso on until the required quantity of filtered\nliquor is obtained. If the liquor which first\npasses through is thick and turbid, introduce\nit again into the instrument, being careful not\nto have the powder too coarse or loosely\npressed, or it will permit the liquid to pass too\nquickly; on the other hand, it should not be\ntoo fine and compact, or it wiil offer an un-\nnecessary resistance. Should the liquor flow\ntoo rapidly return it to the instrument, and\nclose it beneath for a time, and thus permit the\nfiner parts of the powder to subside, and cause\na slower percolation. When substances are\nglutinous or mucilaginous, mix the powder\nwith an equal bulk of well washed sand before\nrubbing it up with the menstruum.\nPerfumery.— The perfumes for the toilet\nare either simple or compound; the former are\ncalled extracts or essences and the latter bou-\nquets. Unfortunately the language of the\nperfumer is French, and this has led to many\nmistakes in classification, and the terms ex-\ntraits, esprits, eaux and par fumes are very loose-\nly applied. Some works call essential oils ottos\nor essences, and the confusion is so great that\nthe different terms will be properly defined;\nbut in the receipts no attempt has been made\nto separate them into classes, and they are\narranged alphabetically according to the\nflowers or name. By far the larger number of\nthe materials used by the perfumer come from\nthe vegetable kingdom, but there are some\nexceptions, as ambergris, musk and civet. The\nnumber of flowers used by the perfumer is\nvery limited, but, by a judicious combination,\nor rather blending, almost any odor may be\nobtained.\nThe odors of plants reside in different parts\nof them, sometimes in the roots, as in the iris\nand vitivert; the stem or wood, in cedar and\nsantal; the leaves, in mint, patchouly, and\nthyme; the flower, in the roses and violets; the\nseeds, in the Tonquin bean and caraway; the\nbark, in cinnamon, etc.\nSome plants yield more than one odor, which\nare quite distinct and characteristic. The\norange tree, for instance, gives three; from the\nleaves one called petit grain; from the flowers\nwe procure neroli; and from the rind of the\nfruit, essential oil of orange, named Portugal.\nOn this account, perhaps, this tree is the most\nvaluable of all to the operative perfumer.\nThe fragrance or odor of plants is owing, in\nnearly all cases, to a perfectly volatile oil, either\ncontained in small vescels, or sacs, within them,\nor generated from time to time, during their\nlife, as when in blossom. Some few exude, by\nincision, odoriferous gums, as benzoin, oliba-\nnum, myrrh, etc.; others give, by the same act,\nwhat are called balsams, which appear to be\nmixtures of an odorous oil and an inodorous\ngum. Some of these balsams are procured in\nthe country to which the plant is indigenous\nby boiling it in water for a time, straining, and\nthen boiling again, or evaporating it down till\nit assumes the consistency of treacle. In this\nlatter way is balsam of Peru procured from\nthe Myroxylon peruiferum, and the balsam of\nTolu from the myroxylon toluiferum. Though\nthese odors are agreeable, they are not much\napplied in perfumery for handkerchief use,\nbut by some they are mixed with soap, and in\nEngland they are valued more for their medic-\ninal properties than for their fragrance.\nThe odors of flowers are more generally\nsecreted during the sunshine, or at least in the\ndaytime, but thei*e are some which yield no\nodor in the day, but are very fragrant in the\nevening, such as the Oestrum nocturnum, the\nLychinis vespertina, some of the Catasetum and\nthe Cymbidium.\nOttos from Plants.\nQuantities of Ottos, Otherwise Essential Oils,\nYielded by Various Plants.—\nlb. of otto.\nOrange peel JO yield about 1 oz.\nDry marjoram herb. 20 3 oz.\nFresh marjoram herb.. 100 3 oz.\nFresh peppermint 100 3 to 4 oz.\nDry peppermint 25 3 to 4 oz.\nDry origanum 25 2 to 3 oz.\nDry thyme 20 1 to 1^ oz.\nDry calamus 25 3 to 4 oz..\nAnise seed 25 9 to 12 oz.\nCaraway 25 16 oz.\nCloves 1 2*4 oz.\nCinnamon 25 3 oz.\nCassia 25 3 oz.\nCedar wood 28 k 4 oz.\nMace 2 3 oz.\nNutmegs 2 3 to 4 oz.\nFresh balm herb 60 1 to 1)^ oz.\nCake of bitter almond.. 14 1 oz.\nSweet flag root 112 16 oz.\nGeranium leaves.... 112 2 oz.\nLavender flowers 112 30 to 32 oz.\nMyrtle leaves 112 5 oz.\nPatchouly herb 112 28 oz..\nProvence rose blossom. .112 1}4 to 2 dr.\nRhodium wood 112 3 to 4 oz.\nSantal wool 112 30 oz.\nVitivert or kuskus root, 112 15 oz.\nViolets 112 Hdr.\nBoiling and Congealing Temperatures of Var-\nious Ottos, etc.—\nFahr.\nAlmond oil will not boil 660°\nOtto of patchouly boils 515°\nvitivert 548°\nsantal wood boils 550°\ncedar wood boils 507°\nEnglish lavender boils 475°\nlemon grass boils 440°\nrose (pure Turkish) boils 432°\ngeranium (Spanish) boils 430°\ngeranium (Indian) boils 420°\ngaultheria boils 400°\nalmonds boils 356°\nbergamot (pure) boils 370°\ncaraway boils 348°\nlemon peel boils 345 c\norange peel boils 345°\nFrench lavender (spike) 180°\nwhite wax melts 150°\ncamphor sublimes 145°\nspermaceti melts 112°\nparaffmeA 102°\nparaffineB 90°\notto rose (Italian) congeals 62°\notto rose (Turkish) congeals 58°\ngeranium, neroli, cloves, deposit\ncrystals 2°\nsantal, cedar, lemon grass, con-\ngeal to a jelly —5°\nbergamot congeals —12°\ncinnamon still fluid —13°\nPerfumes are extracted from plants as fol-\nlows From the flowers by enfleurage, absor-\ntion or maceration; from the roots by tritu-\nration; and by distillation from the seeds.\nThe processes are divided into four distinct\noperations, viz., 1, expression; 2, distillation; 3,\nmaceration; 4, absorption.\n1. Expression is only adopted where the\nplant is very prolific in its volatile or essential\noil, i. e., its odor, such, for instance, as is found\nin the pellicle or outer peel of the orange, lemon","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0399.jp2"},"396":{"fulltext":"Perfumery.\n384\nPerfumery.\nand citron, and a few others. In these cases,\nthe parts of the plant containing the odorifer-\nous principle are put sometimes in a cloth bag\nand at others by themselves into a press, and\nby mere mechanical force it is squeezed out.\nThe press is an iron vessel of immense strength,\nvarying in size from 6 in. in diameter and \\Z in.\ndeep, and upward, to contain one hundred\nweight or more; it has a small aperture at the\nbottom to allow the expressed material to run\nfor collection; in the interior is placed a per-\nforated false bottom, and on this the substance\nto be squeezed is placed, covered with an iron\nplate fitting the interior. This is connected with\na powerful screw, which, being turned, forces\nthe substance so closely together that the little\nvessels containing the essential oils are burst,\nand it thus escapes. The common tincture\npress is indeed a model of such an instrument.\nThe oils which are thus collected are contamin-\nated with watery extract, which exudes at the\nsame time and from which it has to be separ-\nated; this it does by itself to a certain extent,\nby standing in a quiet place, and it is then\npoured off and filtered when requisite.\n2. Distillation. The plant or part of it which\ncontains the odoriferous principle is placed in\nan iron, copper or glass pan, varying in size\nfrom that capable of holding from 1 to 20 gal.,\nand covered with water; to the pan a dome\nshaped lid is fitted, terminating with a pipe,\nwhich is twisted corkscrew fashion and fixed\nin a bucket with the end peeping out like a tap\nin a barrel. The water in the still for such is\nthe name of the apparatus— is made to boil;\nand having no other exit the steam must pass\nthrough the coiled pipe, which being surround-\ned with cold water in the bucket, condenses the\nvapor before it can arrive at the tap. With\nthe steam the volatile oil, e., perfume, rises\nand is liquefied at the same time. The liquids\nwhich thus run over, on standing for a time,\nseparate into two portions and are finally di-\nvided with a funnel having a stop cock in the\nnarrow r art of it. By this process the majority\nof the volatile ottos are procured. In some\nfew instances alcohol is placed upon the odor-\nous materials in lieu of water, which, on being\ndistilled, comes away with the perfuming sub-\nstance dissolved in it. But this process in now\nnearly obsolete, as it is found more beneficial\nto draw the oil or essence, first, with water, and\nafterward to dissolve it in the spirit. The low\ntemperature at which spirit boils compared\nwith water causes a great loss of otto, the heat\nnot being sufficient to disengage it from the\nplant, especially where seeds, such as cloves or\ncaraway, are employed.\n3 Maceration.— This operation is conducted\nthus: For what is called pomade, a certain\nquantity of purified beef or deer suet, mixed\nwith purified lard, is put into a clean metal or\nporcelain pan; this being melted y a steam\nheat or bath, the kind of flowers required for\nthe odor wanted are carefully picked and put\nto the liquid fat, and allowed to remain from\ntwelve to forty-eight hours the fat has a par-\nticular affinity or attraction for the otto of\nflowers, and thus, as it were, draws it out of\nthem, and becomes itself, by their aid, highly\nperfumed the fat is strained from the spent\nflowers, and fresh are added ten or fifteen\ntimes over, till the pomade is of the required\nstrength these various strengths of poma-\ntums are noted by the French makers as Nos. 6,\n12, 18, and 24, the higher numerals indicating\nthe amount of fragrance in them. For per-\nfumed oils, the same operation is followed\nbut, in lieu of .suet, fine olive oil, and the same\nresults are obtained. These oils are called\nhuile antique of such and such a flower.\nThe orange, rose, and cassie compounds are\nprincipally prepared by this process.\nThe violet and rezeda pomades and oils are\nprepared first by the maceration process, and\nthen finished by enfleuraye.\nWhen neither of the three foregoing process-\nes gives satisfactory results, the method of\nprocedure adopted is by—\n4. Absorption or Enflurage.— Of all the pro-\ncesses for procuring the perfumes of flowers,\nthis is the most important to the perfumer,\nand is the least understood in England as this\noperation yields not only the most exquisite\nessence indirectly, but also nearly all those fine\npomades known here as k French pomatums,\nmuch admired for their strength of fragrance,\ntogether with French oils, equally perfumed.\nThe odors of some flowers are so delicate and\nvolatile that the heat required in the pre-\nviously named processes would greatly modify,\nif not entirely spoil, them this process is,\ntherefore, conducted cold, thus: Square\nframes, called a chassis, about three inches deep,\nwith a glass bottom, say two feet wide and\nthree feet long, are procured over the glass a\nlayer of fat is spread, about a quarter of an\ninch thick, with a kind of plaster knife or spa-\ntula on this the flower buds are sprinkled,\ncompletely over it, and there left from twelve\nto seventy-two hours.\nFor oils of the same plants, coarse cotton\ncloths are imbued with the finest olive oil, and\nlaid upon a frame containing wire gauze in\nlieu of glass on these the flowers are laid, and\nsuffered to remain till fresh flowers are pro-\ncured.\nThis operation is repeated several times, after\nwhich the cloths are subject to a great pres-\nsure, to remove the now perfumed oil.\nBut for the pharmacist and the amateur, who\ndesire to make only small quantities, the better\nand in fact the only way is, to buy the essential\noils and prepare the perfume with their aid, as\nthis requires no large plant or expenditure of\ncapital. Care should be used to get deodorized\nalcohol, and all materials should be purchased\nof large drug houses who make a specialty of\nthe expensive essential oils. The prices which\nare given in some receipts are only approxi-\nmate and were taken with the original receipt.\nBouquets.— Perfumes where the odor of no one\nflower can be discovered as predominating\nover another.\nEsprits. The name esprits is commonly given\nby the perfumers to alcoholic solutions of the\nfragrant essential oils and other odorous and\naromatic substances. As a rule, esprits are\nless highly charged with odorous principles,\nand have less alcoholic strength than essences\nand extraits, as well as having little color, if\nany; but the term is often very loosely and\ncapriciously applied in trade, just as its syn-\nonym or analogue, spirit, is in English.\nEssences.— The term essence is commonly\nvery loosely applied to preparations that differ\ngreatly from each other, and which are pre-\nsumed or pretended to contain the essential\nprinciples or qualities of anything disincum-\nbered of grosser matter. Thus, the essential or\nvolatile oils obtained from vegetable substances,\nby distillation, are frequently called essences,\nas well as a strong solution of them in rectified\nspirit— a system of nomenclature which contin-\nually leads to confusion and mistakes. In phar-\nmacy, the concentrated infusions, decoctions,\nliquors, solutions, and tinctures, are also fre-\nquently called essences by those who vend\nthem. In perfumery, a similar loose applica-\ntion of the term prevails; but it is more partic-\nularly appropriated to concentrated, or some-\nwhat concentrated, alcoholic solutions of the\nessential oils and other fragrant substances,\nwhether obtained by simple admixture, by dis-\ntillation, or by digestion as in making tinctures..\nIndeed, the fragrant essences of the perfumers\ndiffer from their eaux, esprits, tinctures, and\nother forms of perfumed spirits merely in\ntheir greater richness in the odorous principles\nthat characterize them, and the greater\nstrength of the spirit that holds these princi-\nples in solution.\nExtraits, Extracts— In French perfumery,\nthese are, appropriately, strong spirituous so-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0400.jp2"},"397":{"fulltext":"Perfumery.\n385\nPerfumery.\nlutions, either simple or compound, of the es-\nsential oils and odorous principles of plants,\nand other substances obtained by infusion or\ndigestion, as distinguished from those that are\nobtained by distillation and direct solution.\nUnder the term, however, are often classed\nmany perfumes prepared with rectified spirit\nby the latter methods, and which are highly\ncharged with the fragrant matter, or matters,\nwhich they represent.\nThe preparation of most of the extraits is\nsimple enough, the chief care necessary being\nthat the spirit be absolutely scentless and of\nsufficient strength, and that the oils, and other\nmaterials, be recent and perfectly pure. With\nsome flowers of extremely delicate perfume,\nhighly perfumed spirit of the finest quality can-\nnot well be obtained either by infusion or dis-\ntillation, or by simple solution of the respective\nessential oils; or, at least, they are not usually so\nprepared by the Continental perfumers, who\nare undoubtedly the best judges in such mat-\nters. For these, an entirely different and a\nrather tedious and indirect method is pursued.\nPure rectified spirit is digested, for three or\nfour days, on half its weight of the oils or pom-\nmades obtained by infusion or contact from the\nrespective flowers. The operation is performed\nin a securely closed vessel or digester of porce-\nlain or tinned copper, set in a water bath, fre-\nquent agitation being employed during the\nwhole time. After the whole has become quite\ncold, the vessel is opened, and the perfumed\nspirit carefully decanted into a second similar\nvessel or digester, containing a like quantity of\noil to the first one. The whole process is then\nrepeated a second time; and again a third time,\nwith fresh oil or pommade. Finally, the cold\nspirit, after sufficient repose, is very carefully\ndecanted through a glass or porcelain funnel\nstopped with a small wad of cotton wool, into\nthe receiver or store bottle.\nAlcohol.— One of the first requisites in the\nmanufacture of good perfumes is pure alco-\nhol, free from fusel oil or other foreign flavor.\nThe purer grade of spirit is known in com-\nmerce as pure spirits, silent spirits, or deodor-\nized alcohol, and may readily be distinguished\nfrom ordinary alcohol by the absence of that\npeculiar pungency of odor which is present to\na greater or less extent in most commercial\nsamples.\nEsprit d 1 Acacia.\nEsprit de fleurs d acacia (simple) 7 fl. oz.\nEsprit de fleurs jasmin 1% fl. oz.\nEsprit de tuberose iy fl. oz.\nEssence of ambergris (finest, pale) 1 fl. drm.\nEau de fleurs d oranges 3 fl. oz.\nRectified spirit 73^ fl. oz.\nMix. A favorite Italian perfume.\nAlhambra Perfume.— Extract tuberose, 1\npt.; extract geranium, pt.; extract acacia,\n34 pt.; extract fleur d orange, 34 pt-; extract\ncivet, 34 pt.\nEsprit d Amande. Almond Perfume.\nEssential oil of almonds 2\\ fl. dr.\nOil of bergamot J/ 2 fl. dr.\nOil of cassia Y% fl. dr.\nEssence royale H A- dr.\nRectified spirit 1 pt.\nMix.\nAmbergris.— This substance, which is found\nfloating in the sea, or is thrown up by the\nwaves upon the shores of various countries,\nis now generally believed to be produced in the\nintestines of the sperm whale. The best gray\nambergris is quite expensive, but is the only\none worth buying.\nTincture of Ambergris.\n1. Ambergris 2 dr.\nPowdered orris root 2 dr.\nDeodorized alcohol 16 oz.\nGrind the ambergris and orris in a mor-\ntar until reduced to a fine powder, transfer to\na bottle, and add the alcohol. Marcerate for\nthirty days, and filter through paper.\n2. Ambergris (gray) 30 gr.\nOrris root (powdered) 1 dr.\nAlcohol 8 oz.\nBeat the ambergris with the orris root to a\npowder, then add the alcohol and macerate for\nthirty days, with occasional agitation, and\nfilter.\nA.mbergris Extract.\nSpirit of rose 3 oz.\nTincture of ambergris 8 oz.\nTincture of musk 4 oz.\nTincture of vanilla 1 oz.\nCost, about $6.00 per pt. Where permanence is\ndesired, this can be recommended.\nEssence of Ambergris.\n1. Ambergris ..5 drm.\nGrain musk (Tonquin or Chi-\nnese, pure) 1% drm.\nEssence d ambrette (or purple\nsweet sultan) 1 qt.\nThis produces the finest quality of the West\nEnd and Paris houses.\n2. Ambergris oz.\nGrain musk (finest) 45 grn.\nEssence d ambrette 1 qt.\nAs before. Very fine.\n3. Ambergris M oz.\nGrain musk.... 12 grn.\nRectified spirit (56 o. p. 1 pt.\nLiquor of ammonia (0*880) 3^ A- drm.\nProceed as for No. 1 (above). Good. It forms\nthe ordinary essence of the shops.\n4. As the last, but replacing the liquor of am-\nmonia with\nOil of cloves 15 drops.\nBalsam of Peru 15 drops.\nNeroli .20 drops.\nOr with\nEssence of roses 34 P*-\nEau de fleurs d oranges 34 pt.\nat will.\nAlmond {Amygdala Amara).— -Is a native of\nPersia, Syria and Barbary, and is cultivated in\nsouthern France and Italy.\nAlmond Spirit.\nOd of bitter almonds 80 drops.\nDeodorized alcohol 16 oz.\nProcure the best cologne spirits or deodorized\nalcohol obtainable. Do not use common alco-\nhol, as its odor is too strong and pungent for\nperfumers use.\nBenzoic Acid. Only that prepared from gum\nbenzoin should be used.\nBenzoin (Benzoinum).— Benzoin is imported\nfrom Borneo, Java and Siam. The tincture of\nbenzoin has the property of adding permanence\nto some of the more fleeting odors.\nTincture of Benzoin.\nGum benzoin, in fine powder. 2 oz.\nDeodorized alcohol 16 oz.\nMacerate for thirty days, and filter.\nBergamot (Citrus Bergamia).— The oil is ob-\ntained in Italy by expression from the peel of\nthe fruit. It should be kept in a dark place,\nand in a tightly corked bottle. If not well\ntaken care of it soon loses its green color, be-\ncomes cloudy from a deposit of resin, and ac-\nquires a turpentine smefl. Care should be\ntaken to preserve all oils as above directed.\nEssence of Bergamot.— The popular name of\noil of bergamot. A spirituous essence may be\nmade in a similar way to that of almonds.\nSweet Brier.— Add to geranium, No. 2\nVerbena extract, No. 1 1 pt.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0401.jp2"},"398":{"fulltext":"Perfumery.\nBouquets.— Essence Bouquet.—\n1. Rose spirit. 4 oz.\nAmbergris tincture 1 oz.\nOrris 2 oz.\nBerganiot oil 34 z\nLemon oil 34 oz.\n2. Rose spirit 2 oz.\nAmbergris tincture.... 2 arm.\nOrris tincture. 1 oz.\nBergamot otto 1 arm.\nLemon otto 15 min.\nCost, $1.32 per pint.\n3. Oil leaf geranium 1 oz.\nOil Turkish geranium 34 oz.\nOtto rose 1 arm.\nExtract musk 6 oz.\nExtract tonka 6 oz.\nExtract orange flower 5 oz.\nExtract vanilla 2 oz.\nExtract civet 1 oz.\nAlcohol 1 gal.\nWater 4 oz.\nj. Extract musk 2 oz.\nExtract tuberose 2 oz.\nOtto rose, virgin 1 drm.\nOtto bergamot 134 arm.\nOtto neroli super J4 drm.\nOtto verbena (true) 8 min.\nOtto pimento 10 min.\nOtto patchouly 3 min.\nOtto red cedar wood (true) -34 drm.\nOtto lavender (English) 12 min.\nPure spirit, sufficient to make 4 t.\nbouquet d Amour.—\nEsprits de rose 2 oz.\nJasmine 2 oz.\nViolette 2 oz.\nCassie 2 oz.\nEssences of musk 1 oz.\nAmbergris 1 oz.\nMix, and, if the liquid be not quite clear, add\nof strong alcohol, drop by drop, the least quan-\ntity sufficient to render it so. It may be filtered;\nbut this should be avoided, as it occasions loss.\nA very agreeable perfume.\nBosphorus Bouquet.— Extract acacia, 1 pt.;\nextract jasmine, 34 pt.; extract rose triple, 34\npt.; extract fleur d orange, pt.; extract tube-\nrose, 34 pt.; extract civit, J4 pt- otto of almonds,\n10 drops.\nBuckingham Palace Bouquet.— Extract fleur\nd orange, extract cassie, extract jasmine, ex-\ntract rose, from pomade of each, 1 pt. Extract\nof orris, extract of ambergris, of each, 34 pt.;\nottfo of neroli, dr.; otto of lavender, 34 dr.;\notto of rose, 1 dr.\nBouquet de Caroline.— Add to recipe for Ess.\nBouquet 1 pt. extract neroli, costing same\nsum.\nBridal Bouquet Extract.—\nMix vanilla tincture 2 drm.\nMusk tincture 1 drm.\nBenzoin tincture 1 drm.\nrris tincture 1 drm.\nCassie essence 4 oz.\nTuberose essence 2 oz.\nJasmine essence 2 oz.\nBerganiot, otto 16 min.\nOrange flower otto.,, 6 min.\nCost, $2.35 per pint.\nBouquet Fedora.\nOtto rose, Kissanlik. 34 drm.\nTurkish geranium 34 oz.\nOil patchouly 34 drm.\nExtract tonka 3 oz.\nExtract musk 2 oz.\nOrange flower 3 oz.\nExtract vanilla 34 oz.\nExtract civet J^ oz.\nAlcohol.... 234pt.\n386 Perfumery,\nFloral Bouquet.—\nMix Musk tincture 2 oz.\nOrris tincture 6 drm.\nTonka tincture 6 drm.\nVanilla tincture 6 drm.\nAmbergris tincture 1 oz.\nRose spirit 4 oz.\nCost, $1.05 per pt.\nThe Guards 1 Bouquet.— Espirit de rose, 2 pt.;\nesprit de neroli, 34 pt.; extract vanilla, 3*6 pt.;\nextract orris, 34 pt.; extract musk, 34 pt-5 otto\nof cloves, J4 drm.\nIsle of Wight Bouquet.— Extract of orris, 3*6\npt., extract of vitivert, 34 Pt-5 extract of san-\ntal, 1 pt.; extract of rose, 34 pf-\nJockey Club Bouquet (English formula).\nExtract orris root, 2 pt.; esprit de rose, triple,\n1 pt.; esprit de rose de pommade, llpt.; extract\nde cassie, tuberose de pommade, of each, 34 pt.;\nextract de ambergris, 34 pf-; otto of bergamot,\n34 oz.\nJockey Club Bouquet (French formula).—\nEsprit de rose, de pommade, 1 pt.; esprit de\ntuberose, 1 pt.; esprit de cassie, 34 Pt esprit de\njasmine, pt.; extract civet, 3 oz.\nBouquet de la Reine d Angleterre.— The fol-\nlowing is Piesse s formula, and the others\ngiven below are from the same excellent au-\nthority, unless otherwise specified\nExtract of rose 56 parts.\nExtract of violets 56 parts.\nExtract of tuberose 28 parts.\nExtract of orange flowers 14 parts.\nEssential oil of bergamot 7 parts.\nMix and filter.\nBouquet de la Reine.—\nEssence (oil) of bergamot. 2J4 drm.\nOil of lavender (Mitcham) 1 drm.\nOil of cloves 34 drm.\nAromatic vinegar (glacial) 34 drm.\nEssence of musk 34 drm.\nAlcohol 3 fl. oz.\nMix, with agitation, as before. Very fine.\nBouquet Ristori.—\nOil rose, Kissanlik. 34 oz.\nOil sandal wood 34 oz.\nExtract tonka 1 pt.\nAlcohol 2 gal.\nWater 4 pt.\nBouquet du Roi.— Extract of jasmine, ex-\ntract of violet, extract of rose from pomade,\nof each, 1 pt. Extract of vanilla, extract of\nvitivert, of each, J4 pt. Extract of musk, ex-\ntract of ambergris, of each, 1 oz. Otto of ber-\ngamot, 1 drm.; otto of cloves, 1 oz.\nLeap Year Bouquet. Extract tuberose, 1\npt.; extract jasmine, 1 pt.; extract rose triple,\n34 pt»; extract santal, 34 pt-* extract vitivert,\n34 pt.; extract patchouly, 34 pt-5 extract ver-\nbena, 34 pf\nBouquet de Montpellier.— Extract tuberose,\n1 pt.; extract rose pomade, 1 pt.; extract rose\ntriple, 1 pt.; extract musk, 34 Pt- extract am-\nbergris, 34 pt.; otto of cloves, 134 drm,; otto of\nbergamot, 34 oz.\nBouquet Pompeii.—\nExtract of jasmine 1 liter.\nExtract of rue 1 liter.\nExtract of cassia 0*50 liter.\nEssence of bergamot 0*060 grin.\nEssence of tonka beans 0*030 grm.\nEssence of santal 0*030 grm.\nTincture of musk 0*200 grm.\nS. Piesse, Chimie des Parfums.\nPrincess Bouquet Extract.—\nBergamot, otto 34 drm.\nClove, otto J4 drm.\nLavender, otto 1 drm.\nMusk tincture 2 drm.\nVanilla tincture 2 drm.\nAmbergris tincture 2 drm.\nRose spirit 1 oz. and 2 drm.\nAlcohol 8 oz.\nCosts $1.03 per pt.\nMix.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0402.jp2"},"399":{"fulltext":"Perfumery.\n387\nPerfumery.\nRoyal Hunt Bouquet.— Esprit de rose triple,\nneroli, acacia, fleur d orange, musk, orris, of\neach- 34 pt.; esprit de Tonquin, pt.; otto of\ncitron zeste, 2 arm.\nTulip Bouquet.— Though most beautiful to\nlook at, nearly all varieties of the tulip are in-\nodorous, yet the variety called Duke of Thol\nexhales a delicious odor, but which is not cul-\ntivated by the perfumer. Nevertheless an ex-\ncellent preparation is prepared in the following\nmanner\nExtract of tuberose, from po-\nmade ..0*56 liter.\nExtract of violets, from po-\nmade J 0*56 liter.\nExtract of jasmine, from po-\nmade 0*56 liter.\nExtract of roses 85grm.\nEssence of almonds 3 drops.\nS. Piesse, Chimie des Parfums.\nYacht Club Bouquet.— Extract of santal, 1\npt.; extract neroli, 1 pt.; extract jasmine, ex-\ntract rose triple, of each, }4 pt.; extract vanil-\nla, 34 Pt.; flowers of benzoin, 34 oz.\nCassie (Acacia Farnesiana).— Cassie is culti-\nvated in southern France and Italy, and pro-\nduces a very valuable perfume, resembling vi-\nolets, but stronger.\nEssence of Cassie.—\nCassie pomade 16 oz.\nDeodorized alcohol q. s. or 16 oz.\nIntroduce the pomade and alcohol into a\nMason fruit jar of *4 gal. capacity. Digest by\nmeans of a water bath until the pomade is\nbarely melted shake well together, and repeat\nthe shaking frequently until cold. Allow this\nto stand thirty days, then drain off the essence.\nIf this falls short of 1 pt., repeat with a suffi-\ncient quantity of alcohol to make up that\nmeasure. The washing can be continued, and\na. second pint of essence obtained, which, al-\nthough much weaker, may be found useful in a\ncheaper grade of perfumes.\nLebanon Cedar Wood.—¥ov the handkerchief,\n•otto of cedar, 1 oz.; rectified spirit, 1 pt., esprit\nrose triple, 34 pt.\nCitronella (Andropogon Mardus).—0\\\\ of cit-\nronella is obtained by distillation from citron-\nella grass, a native of Ceylon and India.\nCivet (from Viverra Civetta).— This substance\nis secreted by the civet cat. It is found in a\nlarge double glandular receptacle, between the\naims and pudendum. The cat abounds in por-\ntions of Asia. Civet has a most disagreeable\nodor, but as a fixing substance, for giving per-\nmanence to the more fleeting odors, it is very\nvaluable.\nTincture of Civet.—\nCivet. 1 drm.\nOrris root powdered 1 drm.\nDeodrized alcohol 16 oz.\nProceed as with the tincture of ambergris.\nJivet Tincture.\nCivet 30 grn.\nOrris root, powdered I drm.\nAlcohol 8 oz.\nTriturate the civet with the orris root until\nthoroughly mixed, then add the alcohol and\nmacerate for thirty days, with occasional agita-\ntion and filter.\nClove (Caryophyllus).— The clove tree is one of\nthe most elegant trees found in the Moluccas\nand other islands of the Chinese seas. Clove\nis a leading feature in some of the line bou-\nquets.\nSpirit of Cloves.—\n1. Oil of cloves 4 drm.\nDeodorized alcohol 16 oz.\n2. Mix clove otto 20 min.\nAlcohol 4 oz.\nEconomical Perfumes. 1. 90# alcohol, 1 pt.;\nessence bergamot, 1 oz.\n2. 90% Alcohol, 1 pt.; otto of santal, 1 oz.\n3. 90% Alcohol, 1 pt.; otto French lavender, J\noz.; otto bergamot, }4 oz.; otto cloves, 1 drm.\n4. 90$ Alcohol, 1 pt.; otto lemon grass, 34 oz.;\nessence lemons, 3^ oz.\n5. Alcohol, 2 pt.; otto petit grain, 34 oz.; otto\norange peel, oz. Nearly all these perfumes\nwill require to be filtered through blotting pa-\nper, with the addition of a little magnesia to\nmake them bright.\nImitation Eglantine, or Essence Sweet Brier.—\nSpirituous extract of French rose pomatum, 1\npt.; spirituous extract cassie, 34 pt.; spirituous\nextract fleur d orange, 34 Pt.; esprit de rose, 34\npt.; oil of neroli, drm.; oil of lemon grass\n(verbena oil), 3^ drm.\nExtract of Elder Flowers.— Elder flower water,\n1 qt.; tincture benzoin, 1 oz.\nEmpress Eugenie s Nosegay.— Extract of\nmusk, vanilla, Tonquin bean and neroli, of each\n34 pt.; extract geranium, rose triple, santal, of\neach Ui Pt.\nEssences of Flowers.— The essences of those\nflowers which are not separately given in this\nwork may be made by one or other of the fol-\nlowing general formulae\nTake of\nEssential oil of the respective flow-\ners 1 oz.\nRectified spirit 1 pt.\ndissolve, as directed for essence of almonds.\nFrangipanni.\n1. Oil fine lavender 3^ oz.\nOil geranium leaf 3^ oz.\nOil Turkish geranium 3^ oz.\nOtto rose 1 dr.\nExtract musk 6 oz.\nExtract tonka 6 oz.\nExtract sandal wood 1 pt.\nExtract vanilla 2 oz.\nExtract civet 1 oz.\nAlcohol 1 gal.\nWater 8 oz.\nExtract orange flo wer 5 oz.\n2. Tuberose essence 1 oz.\nVetivert spirit 3^ oz.\nSandal otto 15 min.\nRose otto 15 min.\nOrange flower otto 15 min.\nAlcohol 3^ oz.\nMusk tincture 2 oz.\nOrris tincture 1 oz.\nOrange flower essence 1 oz.\nCost, $3.00 per pt.\n3. Extract orris 4 oz.\nExtract tuberose 2 oz.\nExtract musk 4 oz.\nExtract vanilla 2 oz.\nExtract jasmin 1 oz.\nExtract styrax 1 oz.\nOtto neroli sugar 1 dr.\nOtto rose virgin 3^ dr.\nOtto santal flav 1 dr.\nOtto red cedar wood, true 1 dr.\nOtto pimento 3^ dr.\nOtto cassia 20 min.\nOtto bergamot 3^ dr.\nOtto ginger 4 drops.\nOtto lavender, English 6 drops.\nBenzoic acid 2 dr.\nPure spirit sufficient to make 4 pints.\n4. Tincture of musk 5 oz.\nTincture of civet 4 dr.\nTincture of orris root 3 oz.\nEssence of orange flowers 3 oz.\nEssence of tuberose 3 oz.\nSpirit of vitivert 1 oz.\nOil ol santal 60 drops.\nOil of neroli petale 60 drops.\nOil of rose 120 drops.\nOil of rose geranium 60 drops.\nCost, $6.50 per pint. Where there is a de-\nmand for something lasting, regardless of\nprice, this will prove satisfactory.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0403.jp2"},"400":{"fulltext":"Perfumery.\n388\nPerfumery.\nGeranium (Pelargoneum Camtatum). Gera-\nnium oil is obtained in southern France and\nTurkey, from rose leaf geranium.\nRose Geranium Extract.—\nOil of rose geranium 1 oz.\nDeodorized alcohol 15 oz.\nCost, 80c. per pt.\nGeranium No. 1.—\nOil geranium leaf, .iniunutt 2 oz.\nOil Turkishrose 2 oz.\nOil bergamot 1 oz.\nExtract orange flower 5 oz.\nExtract civet 1 oz.\nAlcohol lgal.\nWater 8 oz.\nGeranium No. 2.\nOil geranium leaf ,...loz.\nOil Turkish geranium 1 oz.\nOil bergamot 1 oz.\nExtract benzoin 2 oz.\nExtract vanilla 2 oz.\nAlcohol 2 gal.\nWater.. 3 pt.\nGuibourVs Royal Essence for the Handkerchief.\n—This very persistent perfume is made as fol-\nlows:\nTake of—\nAmbergris 25 parts.\nMusk 12 parts.\nCivet Vivera civetta) 5 parts.\nOil of rose 2 parts.\nOil of cinnamon (Laurus cinnamo-\nmum) 3 parts.\nOil of wood of Rhodes (Convolvu-\nlus scoparius) 2 parts.\nOil of orange flowers (Citrus au-\nrantium) 2 parts.\nCarbonate of potash 6 parts.\nAlcohol at 90° 860 parts.\nMacerate for fifteen days and filter.\nHeliotrope, No. 1.—\nExtract orange flower 1 oz.\nExtract white rose 1 qt.\nExtract vanilla pt.\nExtract benzoin 1 oz.\nExtract civet 1 oz.\nAlcohol 1 pt.\nOil of bitter almonds 3 min.\nWater 2 oz.\nNote.— If you will get the flower heliotrope,\nyou will notice a slight odor of bitter almonds.\nPut into the extract only the amount required\nto imitate that.\nHeliotrope, No. 2.—\nOil bergamot 1 oz.\nExtract vanilla pt.\nExtract civet 5^ oz.\nExtract benzoin J^ oz.\nAlcohol 1 gal.\nExtract orris 1 pt.\nOil bitter almonds 5 drp.\nWater 3 pt.\n3. Tincture of vanilla 8 oz.\nTincture of ambergris 1 oz.\nTincture of civet 1 oz.\nSpirit of rose 3 oz.\nEssence of rose 3 oz.\nOil of bitter almond 5 drp.\nCost, $2.10 per pint.\nHoneysuckle Extract.\nMix Patchouly extract 3 drm.\nBenzoin tincture 3^j oz.\nRose essence y% oz.\nClove spirit y% oz.\nCivet tincture 1 oz.\nOrange flower spirit 1 oz.\nJasmin essence 4 oz.\nVanilla tincture 1 oz.\nCost, $1.50 per pint.\nHoneysuckle.—\nEssence of rose 4oz.\nEssence of violet. 4 oz.\nEssence of tuberose 4 oz.\nTincture of vanilla 1 oz.\nTincture of tolu 1 oz.\nTincture of musk I oz.\nOil of neroli petale 3 drops.\nOil of bitter almond*. 2 drops.\nDeodorized alcohol 1 oz.\nCost, $2.80 per pint.\nIceland Wintergreen. Esprit de rose, 1 pt\nessence of lavender, 34 Pt-; extract of neroli, y%\npt.; extract of vanilla, 34 pt.; extract of viti-\nvert, 34 Pt.; extract of cassie, J^ pt.; extract of\nambergris, 34 Pt.\nJapanese Perfume. Extract of rose triple, J*£\npt.; extract vitivert, pt.; extract patchouly.\n3^ pt.; extract cedar, pt.; extract santal, J4\npt.; extract verveine, 34 Pt.\nJasmine (Jasminum Odoratissimum). Jas-\nmine is cultivated in southern Prance and\nItaly. Its odor is so peculiar and fine, it cannot\nitself be imitated, but is used for imitating odors,\nof other flowers.\nEssence of Jasmine-\nJasmine pomade 16 oz.\nDeodorized alcohol q. s. or 16 oz.\nProceed as with cassie.\nJasmine Extract.\nMix Jasmine essence. 4 oz.\nVanilla tincture ^j oz.\nAmbergris tincture 2 drm-\nCost, $2.24 per pt.\nJessamine.\nExtract jessamine from pomade. 8 pt.\nOil lemon oz.\nOil bergamot 3^ oz.\nJockey Club Extract.—\nMix Tuberose essence 2 oz.\nRose spirit 2 oz.\nRose essence 2 oz.\nAmbergris tincture V/% oz.\nCivet tincture 2 drm-\nMusk tincture 2 drm.\nBergamot otto 30 min.\nClove otto 10 min.\nCost, $1.84 per pt.\nJockey Club.\nExtract jasmin. 5 oz.\nExtract orris 20 oz.\nExtract musk 7 oz.\nExtract vanilla 13^ oz.\nOtto rose, virgin 13^drm..\nOtto santal flav 13^ drm.\nOtto bergamot 23^ drm.\nOtto neroli super 40 min.\nBenzoic acid 2 drm.\nPure spirit sufficient to make 4pt.\nIn this as well as the following extracts, be-\nfore adding the last portion of the spirit, re-\nplace as much of it with water as the perfume\nwill bear without becoming milky, which will\nvary from 2 to 8 oz. or more. This addi-\ntion will make the perfume softer.\nJockey Club, No. 1.—\nExtract musk 1J^ pt.\nExtract civet 2 oz.\nExtract benzoin 114 oz.\nExtract orange flower 4 oz.\nExtract otto rose, Kissanlik 2 drm.\nAlcohol 1 gal.\nWater pt.\nNote.— The water should not be put in until\nthe oils are all cut or dissolved by the alcohol,\nand after that the extract should have time,\nsay one night, so as to digest fully.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0404.jp2"},"401":{"fulltext":"Perfumery.\n389\nPerfumery,\nJockey Club, No. 2.—\nOil bergamot 2 oz.\nOil lavender, fine y 2 oz.\nExtract civet 2 oz.\nExtract benzoin 2 oz.\nExtract musk 1 pt.\nAlcohol 2 gal.\nWater 3 pt.\nJockey Club, No. 3.—\nSpirit of rose 4 oz.\nEssence of rose 1 oz.\nEssence of tuberose 4 oz.\nEsssnce of, cassie 2 oz.\nEssence of jasmine... 1 oz.\nEssence of orange flowers 1 oz.\nTincture of civet 2 oz.\nTincture of musk. 1 oz.\nCost, $2.50 per pint.\nTrue Extract of Jonquil.— Jonquil pomade, 8\nlb.; spirit, 60 overproof 1 gal. Let it stand one\nmonth.\nImitation Extract of Jonquil.— Spirituous ex-\ntract of jasmine pomade, 1 pt.; spirituous ex-\ntract tuberose, 1 pt.; spirituous extract fleur\nd orange, J^ pt.; extract vanilla, 2 fl. oz.\nKew Garden Nosegay. Esprit de neroli, pe-\ntale, 1 pt.; esprit de cassie, esprit de tuberose,\nfrom pomade, of each y% pt.; esprit de jasmine,\nesprit de geranium, of each y% pt.; esprit de\nmusk, esprit.de ambergris, of each 3 oz.\nMay Flowers.— Extract of rose de pommade,\n^3 pt.; extract of jasmine, pt.; extract fleur\nd orange, pt.; extract cassie, y pt.; extract\nof vanilla, 1 pt.: otto of almonds, M drm.\nMillefleur Lavender, Delcroix s.— Spirits from\ngrapes, 1 pt.; French otto of lavender, 1 oz.;\nextract of ambergris, 2oz.\nLavender, Lavendula Vera.— The best oil of\nlavender comes from Mitcham, in England,\nwhere the plant is grown extensively.\nEssence of Lavender.\nOil of lavender, Mitcham 1 oz.\nRectified spirit, strongest pt.\nMix, with agitation a few drops of the es-\nsences of musk and ambergris being added, at\nwill; very fine.\nLavender Water. See Waters,\nLavender Extract.\nOil of lavender, Mitcham 4 drm.\nEssence of rose 2 oz.\nDeodorized alcohol 14 oz.\nCost, $2. 30 per pt. By using the common oil\nof lavender flowers, the cost will be about\n$1.20.\nLemon (Citrus Limonum),— The lemon tree is\na member of the great Citrus family. Sicily\nproduces a large amount of oil of lemon. The\nraising and extracting of oils of lemon, orange,\nand bergamot form one of the chief industries\nin the vicinity of Palermo.\nEssence of Lemon.\nOil of lemon 4 drm.\nCarb. magnesia 4 drm.\nSugar 4 drm.\nDeodorized alcohol 8 oz.\nWater 8 oz.\nDissolve the oil in two ounces of alcohol;\ntriturate in a mortar with the magnesia\nand sugar. Gradually add the remainder of\nthe alcohol and water, and filter. This is also\nused for dispensing.\nLemon Grass (Andropogar Citratus).— Is a\nspecies of grass growing in India; on account\nof its odor resembling verbena, the oil is used\nfor preparing the extract of verbena.\nImitation Essence of White Lilac.— Spirituous\nextract from tuberose pomade, 1 pt.; spiritu-\nous extract of oranare flower pomade, J4 pt.;\notto of almonds, 3 drops; extract of civet, ^oz.\nLily of the Valley, or White Pond Lily.—\n1. Essence of tuberose 8 oz.\nEssence of jasmine l oz.\nEssence of orange flowers 1 oz.\nEssence of cassie 2 oz.\nEssence of rose 2 oz.\nSpirit of rose 1 oz.\nTincture of vanilla 1 oz.\nOil bitter almonds 2 drops.\nCost, $2.50 per pint.\n2. The celebrated Lily of the Valley perfume\nis said to be made as follows\nExtract of jasmine 1000\nExtract of ylang ylang 15*0\nCardamom seeds.. 5*0\nOil of orris Tower 10 drops.\nThe cardamom odor, if predominating, must\nbe neutralized with jasmine.\nMarie Stuar No L—\nExtract musk 4 oz.\nExtract civet 4 oz.\nExtract benzoin 4 oz.\nExtract orange flower 16 oz.\nExtract oil of rose, Kissanlik. 60 min.\nOil bergamot 60 min.\nExtract tonka 4 oz.\nAlcohol 1 gal.\nWater 1 pt.\nMarie Stuart, No. 2.— To recipe for night\nblooming cereus\nExtract tonka 4 oz.\nMagnolia, No. 1.—\nOtto rose 1 drm.\nOil Turkish geranium 1 drm.\nExtract tonka 4 oz.\nExtract civet 1 oz.\nExtract musk 3 oz.\nExtract orange flower 6 oz.\nExtract vanilla 6 oz.\nAlcohol y% gal.\nWater 4 oz.\nMagnolia, No. 2.—\nOil Bergamot 2 oz.\nExtract vanilla 8 oz.\nExtract tonka 2 oz.\nExtract civet 1 oz.\nExtract benzoin 1 oz.\nAlcohol 2 gal.\nWater 3pt.\nMignonette.—\nExtract orris 12 oz.\nExtract tuberose 4 oz.\nExtract vanilla 4 oz.\nExtract musk 2 oz.\nOtto rose, virgin 1 drm.\nOtto neroli super 1J4 drm.\nOtto pimento 12 min.\nBenzoic acid 1 drm.\nPure spirit sufficient to make 4 pt.\nMillefleur.— 1. Add to Bouquet de Caroline.—\nExtract orange flower 1 pt.\nExtract civet 1 oz.\nExtract benzoin 1 oz.\n2. Otto rose, virgin 1 drm.\nOtto red cedar wood (true).. 1 drm.\nOtto orange (new) 1 drm.\nOtto pimento %Q min.\nExtract orris (j oz.\nExtract jasmine 2 oz.\nExtract styrax 1 oz.\nExtract tonka 4 oz.\nPure spirit sufficient to make 4 pt.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0405.jp2"},"402":{"fulltext":"Perfumery.\n390\nPerfumery.\nMillefleurs (Thousand Flowers).—\nSpirit of rose 3 oz.\nEssence of rose 1 oz.\nEssence of jasmine 4 oz.\nEssence of,, orange flowers 2 oz.\nEssence of cassie 2 oz.\nTincture of orris 2 oz.\nTincture of tonka 4 drm.\nTincture of ambergris 4 drm.\nTincture of musk 4 drm.\nGil bitter almonds 3d rops.\nOil of neroli petale 3 drops-\nOil of cloves 3 drops.\nOil of bergamot 120 drops.\nCost, $2.55 per pint.\nMush (from Moschus, Moschatus).— Musk is\nobtained from the musk deer, a small animal\ninhabiting the mountainous regions of Central\nAsia. Grain musk is the best form in which to\npurchase the article Musk is used extensively\nin perfumes, both as a simple extract and for\ngiving permanence to more fleeting odors.\nTincture of Musk.\nGrain musk 2 drm.\nHot water 1 oz.\nDeodorized alcohol 15 oz.\nHub the musk to a fine paste with the hot\nwater. Digest in a covered mortar for two\nhours; add the alcohol, and transfer to a tightly\ncorked bottle. Digest for thirty days and\nfilter.\nMusk.—\n1. Tincture of musk 11 oz.\nSpirit of rose 4 oz.\nTincture of civet 1 oz.\nCost, $5.90 per pin*.. This is rather a high\npriced article, but the tincture of musk can be\nreduced one-half with alcohol and still yield a\nsatisfactory result. The cost will then be\n$3.25.\n2. Extract musk 1 pt.\nExtract orris 6 oz.\nExtract vanilla 2 oz.\nExtract styrax 2drr\nOtto santal flav 1 drr\nOtto bergamot 2 drm.\nOtto neroli super 10 min.\nOtto patchouly 12 min.\nOtto lavender (English) 15 min.\nOtto cinnamon (true) 6 min.\nPure spirit. ...suflicient to make 4 pt.\n3. Tonquin grain musk 1 drm.\nHot water 4 drm.\nAlcohol 1 pt.\nDigest the musk in the hot water for three or\nfour hours, then add the alcohol and macerate\nfor thirty days, with occasional agitation, and\nfilter.\nMusk Extract r—\n1. Mix musk tincture 2 oz.\nCxvet tincture 2 oz.\nRose otto 10 min.\nAlcohol loz.\nCost, $2.26 per pt.\nThis extract of musk is a more pleasant and\nof a more natural musk odor than any that\nhas been produced from the grain musk alone.\n2. Take of pure grain musk, of the first qual-\nity, 2 drm. Mix Vi oz. of liquor potassae with\n4 oz. of proof spirit, and triturate the musk\nwith this mixture until it is thoroughly soft-\nened and reduced to a creamy state; add\nenough proof spirit to make up about 1 pt.;\nstir well, then allow the coarser particles to\nsubside, and pour off the supernatant fluid.\nRub the coarser portions again with a fresh\nportion of spirit, proceeding as before, and re-\npeat the process until the musk is entirely re-\nduced, and the quantity of extract measures 3\npt. Allow this to stand for a fortnight, with\noccasional shaking, when it will be ready for\nuse.\n3. Grain musk 14 oz.\nRectified spirit (56 o. p.) l qt.\nEssence of ambergris (finest) 2 fl. oz.\nDigest, etc., as before. Excellent, but greatly\ninferior to the others.\nImitation Essence of Myrtle.— Extract of\nvanilla, }4 pt.; extract of roses, 1 pt.; extract\nfleur d orange, }4 Pt-; extract tuberose, pt.:\nextract jasmine, 2 oz.\nExtract of Narcissus.— Extract of tuberose, 3\npt.; extract of jonquil, 2 pt.; extract ol styrax,.\n34 pt.; extract of tolu, J4 Pt.\nNeroli Spirit.—\nOil neroli petale\nDeodorized alcohol.\n4 drm.\n16 oz.\nNew Mown Hay.—\n1. Tonka tincture 4 oz.\nMusk tincture 1 oz.\nBenzoin tincture 1 oz.\nRose spirit 1 oz.\nRose geranium oil 40 nun.\nBergamot oil 40 min.\nAlcohol (rectified) 1 oz.\n2. Tincture of tonka 6 oz.\nSpirit of rose 3 oz.\nEssence of rose 3 oz.\nEssence of jasmine 3 oz.\nOil of neroli petal 10 drops\nOil of rose geranium 60 drops-\nDeodorized alcohol 4 oz.\nCost, $1.65 per pint.\n3. Extract tonka 25 oz.\nExtract musk 6 oz.\nExtract orris 8 oz.\nExtract vanilla 1 oz.\nExtract styrax 1 drm.\nOtto bergamot 1 drm.\nOtto neroli super 15 min.\nOtto rose, virgin 10 min.\nOtto cloves 6 min.\nOtto lavender (English) 10 min.\nOtto patchouly 10 min.\nOtto santal flav 1 drm.\nBenzoic acid 1J^ drm.\nPure spirit suflicient to make 4 pt.\n4. Oil geranium from leaf 2 drm.\nTurkish geranium 2 drm.\nExtract white rose 1 qt.\nExtract orange flower 1 pt.\nTonka extract 8 oz.\nAlcohol 2 qt.\nExtract vanilla 4 oz.\nWater 4 oz.\nExtract musk 4 oz.\nFor new names for bouquet odors, take\nnames of persons or places as desired.\n5. Mix moss rose extract 1 oz.\nBenzoin tincture 1 oz.\nTonka tincture 4 oz.\nMusk tincture 1 oz.\nRose geranium otto 40 min.\nBergamot otto 40 min.\nAlcohol 1 oz.\nCost, $1.50 per pt.\nNight Blooming Cereus.—\n1. Spirit of rose 4 oz.\nEssence of jasmine 4 oz.\nTincture of tonka 2 oz.\nTincture of civet 2 oz.\nTincture of benzoin 4 oz.\nCost, $1.65 per pint.\n2. Extract vanilla 8 oz.\nExtract civet 2 oz.\nExtract benzoin 2 oz.\nOil bergamot 2 oz.\nAlcohol 2 gal.\nWater 3 pt.\nOrange (Citrus Aurantum, Citrus Bigararte).\nFrom the orange tree is obtained five distinct\nand valuable perfumes. 1. The true flower\nodor, obtained by digesting the flowers with","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0406.jp2"},"403":{"fulltext":"Perfumery.\n391\nPerfumerT,\nlard. 2. Oil neroli petale, or oil neroli bigar-\nade, by distilling the flowers of the sweet and\nbitter orange respectively. 3. Oil of neroli\npetit grain, by distilling the leaves and unripe\nfruit. 4. Oil of orange, Portugal, obtained by\nrolling the fruit in a metal cup covered with\nspikes, known as an ecuelle, which wounds the\nfruit and causes the oil to flow from the oil\nglands. 5. Commercial oil of orange, obtained\nby expressing or distilling the orange peel.\nThe orange tree is cultivated extensively in\nsouthern France, Italy and Sicily.\nEssence of Orange Flowers.—\n1. Orange flower pomade 16 oz.\nDeodorized alcohol q. s. or 10 oz.\nProceed as with cassie.\nEssence of Neroli, Essence of Orange Blos-\nsoms.—\n1. Neroli (pure) y% oz.\nRectified spirit 1 pt.\nDissolve. An ounce of the essence of jasmine,\njonquille or violets is often added. A delicate\nand delicious perfume A spurious or com-\npound article is often prepared as f oIIoavs\n2. Oil of orange peel (recent) 1 dr.\nNeroli dr.\nAmbergris 5 or 6 gr.\nOrris root (bruised) J4 oz.\nRectified spirit J4 pt.\nDigest fourteen days. Strongly and agreeably\nfragrant, but less chaste than the preceding,\nand, to a cultivated nose, very different.\nOrange Flower Extract.—\nEssence of orange flowers 12 oz.\nEssence of cassie. t 2 oz.\nTincture of musk 2 oz.\nCost, $3.20 per pint.\nOrange Flower Spirit.\nOrange flower otto 40 min.\nAlcohol 8 oz.\nOrris (Iris Florentlna).— Is largely cultivated\nnear Florence, Italy.\nOrris Tincture.\nOrris root, powdered 2 oz.\nAlcohol 4 oz.\nMacerate the orris root for seven days and\nfilter, then percolate the orris root with alcohol\nsufficient to make the measure up to 4 fl. oz.\nExtract of Orris.— Seven pounds of finely\nground orris root of good quality is treated\nby percolation with pure alcohol until 1 gal. of\nextract is obtained.\nPatchoulij (Pogostemon Patchouli, Lindley.\nPatchouly is a native of Selhet, a district of\nBengal. It is also found in Java, Ceylon and\nportions of China. The oil is distilled from\nthe fresh herb. It has a very peculiar, musty,\nmossy odor, but when properly blended forms\na very fashionable perfume.\nPatchouli/.—\n1. Oil of patchouly 75 drops.\nOil of rose 15 drops.\nDeodorized alcohol 16 oz.\nCost, 75 cents per pt.\n2. Otto patchouly 2 dr.\nOtto santal flav 40 min.\nRose, virgin 40 min.\nExt. musk 8 oz.\nExt. orris 8 oz.\nExt. vanilla 4oz.\nExt. sty rax 2 dr.\nPure spirit sufficient to make 4 pt.\n3. Mix Patchouly otto 2 drm.\nRose otto 20 min.\nAlcohol 15 oz.\nCost, $0.96 per pt.\nQuality No. 1.—\nOil pa tchouly 3 oz.\nExtract benzoin 2 oz.\nExtract civet 2 oz.\nExtract orange flower 4 oz.\nAlcohol 1 gal.\nWater 2 oz.\nQuality No. 2.—\nOil patchouly l oz.\nExtract benzoin 1 oz.\nExtract civet 1 oz.\nAlcohol 1 gal.\nWater 3 pt.\nSweet Pea.—\nEssence of tuberose 5 oz.\nEssence of orange flower 5 oz.\nEssence of rose 5 oz.\nTincture of tonka 1 oz.\nCost, $2.50 per pt.\nEssence of Peach Blossoms, Extract of Peach\nBlossoms.— T 1 is name is fancifully given to the\nfollowing preparation\nOil of lemon (recent) 1 fl. drm.\nBalsam of Peru 15 grn.\nEssential oil of almonds 8 grn.\nSpirit of orange flowers 2^ fl. oz.\nSpirit of jasmine 5 fl. drm.\nRectified spirit 7 fl. oz.\nAgitate them together for a few days, and\nafter another week pour off the clear portion.\nA refreshing and powerful perfume, much es-\nteemed for personal use. A second quality is\nmade with spirit only 35$ over proof.\nPiesse^s Posy.— Extract of rose (from pom-\nade), 1 pt.; esprit of rose triple, pt.; extract\nof jasmine, extract of violet, from pomade,\nof each J^ pt.; extract of verbena, extract of\ncassie, of each 2J6 oz.; otto of lemons, otto of\nbergamot, of each J4 oz.; extract of musk, ex-\ntract of ambergris, of each 1 oz.\nPimento.— The allspice tree is a native of the\nWest Indies, Mexico, and South America. The\noil is obtained by distilling the berries.\nClove Pink.—\n1. Extract jasmine 12 oz.\nExtract orris 12 oz.\nExtract musk 8 oz.\nOtto rose, virgin 1 drm.\nOtto cjoves 2 drm.\nOtto neroli super 1 drm.\nOtto pimento 10 min.\nOtto patchouly 20 min.\nOtto santal flav 2 drm.\nBenzoic acid 1 drm.\nPure spirit .sufficient to make 4 pt.\n2. Essence of rose 6 oz.\nEssence of cassie 4 oz.\nSpirit orange flower 4 oz.\nTincture of vanilla 2 oz.\nOil of cloves 10 drops.\nCost, $2.40 per pt.\n3. Mix clove spirit 2 drm.\nVanilla tincture oz.\nViolet essence y% oz.\nOrange flower spirit 1 oz.\nRose spirit 2 oz.\nCost, $1.35 per pt.\nSweet Pink.—\nOil ylang ylang 1 drm.\nOil bergamot 2 drm.\nExtract benzoin 2 drm.\nCivet 2 drm.\nExtract rose from pomade 8 oz.\nAlcohol... 1J^ qt.\nThe cost of these formulas varies from $1.50\nto 75 cents per pint, at present price of alco-\nhol and other material.\nRondoletia.—\n1. Tincture of musk 4 drm.\nTincture of ambergris 4 drm.\nTincture of vanilla 4 drm.\nOil of bergamot 1 drm.\nOil of lavender (Mitcham) 2 drm.\nOil of cloves 1 drm.\nOh* of rose 30 dr p.\nDeodorized alcohol 14 oz.\nCost, $3 per pint. With common oil of laven-\nder flowers it will cost $1.6u.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0407.jp2"},"404":{"fulltext":"Perfumery.\n392\nPerfumery.\n2. Otto lavender (English) 1 oz.\nOtto cloves oz.\nOtto bergamot ^i oz.\nOtto rose geranium (Turkey) 2 drm.\nOtto cinnamon (true) 20 min.\nOtto rose, virgin 10 mi n.\nOtto santal 13a vor 1 drm.\nExtract musk 2 oz.\nExtract orris 4 oz,\ni Extract vanilla 2 oz.\nBenzoic acid 1 drm.\nPure spirit sufficient to make 4 pints.\n3. Mix lavender otto (English)... 1 drm.\nCloveotto 15 min.\nBergamot otto 30 min.\nMusk tincture 2 drm.\nVanilla tincture 2 drm.\nAmbergris tincture 2 drm.\nRose spirit 1\\4, oz.\nAlcohol 8 oz.\nCost, $1.10 per pint.\nRose (Rosa Centifolia).- This is truly the\nqueen of flowers; and although roses are found\ngrowing wild in nearly every part of the world,\nit is only in France, Turkey, and India that\nthey are cultivated for their perfume. The\nTurkish oil is the one commonly found in the\nmarket. Oil of rose should congeal at 80° F.\nWhen slowly cooled to 50° F., the oil becomes a\ntransparent solid, interspersed with numerous\nslender, shining, iridescent scale like crystals\n(U. S. P.). The oil is obtained by distilling the\nflowers with water.\nEssence of Rose\nRose pomade 16 oz.\nDeodorized alcohol q. s. or 16 oz.\nProceed as with cassie essence.\nSpirit of Rose.—\n1. Oil of rose 2 drm.\nOil of rose geranium 1 drm.\nDeodorized alcohol 16 oz.\nThe oil of rose geranium is added to give per-\nmanence to the spirit.\n2. Rose otto 50 min.\nRose geranium otto 40 min.\nAlcohol 8 oz.\nEsprit de Rose.— The compound perfume sold\nunder this name is commonly made as follows\n1. Esprit de Rose (simple, finest). 1 pt.\nEssence of ambergris fl. drm.\nOil of rose geranium HA- drm.\nMix. Delicately fragrant.\n2. Otto of roses (finest) 1)4 drm.\nNe*oli drm.\nRectified spirit (56 o. p.; warm). 5 pt.\nagitate them together, add of\nChloride of calcium (dry; pow-\ndered) lb.\nand again well agitate. Next throw the whole\ninto a still, and draw over rapidly by steam\nheat, y 2 gal. Lastly, add to the distillate 1 11.\ndrm. of essence royaie. Very fine. Both are\ndelicate and favorite perfumes.\nEssence of Roses (Bed).— Concentrated tinc-\nture of roses.—\nRed rose petale or leaves (dried) 6 oz.\nProof spirit 1 qt.\nDigest for fourteen days, press, strain, add of\nAcetic acid (sp. gr. 1 044) 2 H. drm.\nand the next day filter. Used chieHy to color\nand flavor cosmetics that do not contain alka-\nlies or earths, particularly liquid ones made\nwith spirit.\nEssence of Roses.—\n1. Otto of roses (pure) 154 drm. (troy).\nAlcohol (0-806) 1 pt.\nMix, place t he bottle in a vessel of warm water\nuntil its contents acquire the temperature of\nabout 85° F., then cork it close, and agitate it\nsmartly until the whole is quite cold. Very\nfine.\n2. Otto of roses 1 drm.\nRectified spirit (66 o. p.) 1 pt.\nas before. Excellent.\nMoss Rose.—\n1. Extract rose from pomade.... 4 pt.\nTurkish rose y% oz.\nOtto rose, Kissanlik y drm.\nExtract musk 1 oz.\nExtract civet y oz.\nExtract benzoin J^ oz.\nAlcohol y% gal.\nWater 4 oz.\n2. Mix rose spirit 3 oz.\nOrange flower essence 1 oz.\nAmbergis tincture oz.\nMusk tincture 2 drm.\nCost, $1.75 per pint.\n3. Spirit of rose 9 oz.\nEssence of orange flowers 3 oz.\nEssence of rose 2 oz.\nTincture of civet 1 oz.\nTincture of musk 1 oz.\nCost, $2.85 per pint.\n4. Otto rose, virgin 2 drm.\nOtto santal 2 drm.\nExtract of musk 12 oz.\nExtract of vanilla 4 oz.\nExtract of orris 2 oz.\nExtract of jasmine 4 oz.\nBenzoic acid 1 drm.\nPure spirit, sufficient to make 4 pints.\nTea Rose\nEssence of rose 4 oz.\nSpirit of rose 8 oz.\nSpirit of santal 2 oz.\nEssence of orange flowers 1 oz.\nTincture of orris 1 oz.\nOil of rose geranium 20 drops.\nCost, $2.20 per pint.\nEssence of Tea Rose.— Esprit de rose pomade,\n1 pt.; esprit de rose triple, 1 pt.; extract of rose\ngeranium, 1 pt.; extract santal wood, H pt.;\nextract neroli, J4 Pt.; extract of orris, J4 Pt.\nWhite Rose.—\n1. Oil Turkish geranium 2 oz.\nOil bergamot 2 oz.\nExtract benzoin 2 oz.\nExtract vanilla 2 oz.\nAlcohol 2 gal.\nWater 3 pt.\n2. Esprit de rose from pomatum, 1 qt.; esprij\nde rose triple, 1 qt.; esprit de violette 1 qt.;\nextract of jasmine, 1 pt.; extract of patchouly,\nHpt.\n3. Spirit of rose 8 oz.\nEssence of rose 3 oz.\nEssence of jasmine 4 oz.\nExtract of patchouly 1 oz.\nCost, $-2.50 per pt.\n4. Otto rose, Kissanlik. 2 drm.\nExtract orange flower 2 oz.\nExtract civet 1 oz.\nExtract benzoin 1 oz.\nExtract vanilla *4 oz.\nTurkish rose 1 drm.\nAlcohol 214 qt.\nWater 4 oz.\n5. Oil of rose 2 drm.\nOil of geranium 30 drops.\nEssence of rose 4 02.\nDeodorized alcohol 16 oz.\nEssence of jasmine 2 oz.\nTincture of musk 1 oz.\nTincture of ambergris 1 oz.\nCost, $3 per pt.\nExtract of white rose is a general favorite,\nand cannot be recommended too highly.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0408.jp2"},"405":{"fulltext":"Perfumery.\n393\nPerfumery.\n6. Mix rose spirit 4 oz.\nViolet essence 2 oz.\nJasmine essence 2 oz.\nPatchouly extract oz.\nCost, $1.76 per pt.\n7. Otto rose, virgin 2 drm.\nOtto red cedar wood (true) 6 min.\nOtto patchouly 4 min.\nOtto orange (fresh) drm.\nExtract tuberose 2 oz.\nExtract orris 2 oz.\nExtract jasmine 2 oz.\nExtract musk 2 oz.\nBenzoic acid 1 drm.\nPure sairit (to which 4 oz. rose water has\nToeen added), sufficient to make 4 pt.\nRosemary (Rosemarinus Officinalis).— The rose-\nanary plant is a native of the borders of the\nMediterranean Sea. It is also cultivated in\nthis country. The oil is one of the leading in-\ngredients in cologne.\nRose Sandal.—\nOilsandal 2 oz.\nAlcohol }4 gal.\nWhite rose extract y% gal.\nSandalwood Extract.\nSandalwood otto 3 drms.\nRose otto 20 min.\nAlcohol 8 oz.\nMix. Cost, $1.25 per pt.\nSantal (Santalum Album).— The oil is distilled\nfrom the wood, which is a native of Australia\nand the South Sea Islands.\nSpirit of Santal.—\nOil of santal wood 2 drm.\nDeodorized alcohol 16 oz.\nTonka (Dipterix Odorata).— The tonka bean\nis the fruit of a large South American tree.\nWhen fresh they are very fragrant, having a\nstrong odor of new mown hay. They are ex-\nported from Para and Angostura. Tonka beans\nare used for scenting snuff, and by unscrupu-\nlous dealers for adulterating vanilla. And in\nperfumery in the form of tincture they enter\ninto many of the leading bouquets.\nTincture of Tonka.—\nTonka beans 6 oz.\nDeodorized alcohol, a sufficient quantity.\nReduce the beans to a coarse powder; macer-\nate in a corked bottle with 16 oz. of alcohol for\nthirty days. Tben filter, and add enough alco-\nhol through the. filter to make the product\nmeasure 16 oz.\nSpring Flowers.—\n1. Extract orris 4 oz.\nExtract jasmine 4 oz.\nExtract musk 4 oz.\nOtto bergamot 2 drm.\nOtto neroli super 3^ drm.\nOtto verbena (true) 10 min.\nOtto red cedar wood (true) 1 drm.\nBenzoic acid 1 drm.\nPure spirit sufficient to make 4 pints.\n2. Essence of rose 7 oz.\nEssence of violet 6 oz.\nOil of bergamot 1 drm.\nSpirit of rose 1 oz.\nTincture of ambergris 1 oz.\nEssence of cassie 1 oz.\nCost, $2.95 per pint.\n3. Extract of rose, extract of violet from\npomade, of each 1 pt.; extract rose triple, 2\noz.; extract cassie, 2% oz.; otto bergamot, 2\ndrm.; extract ambergris, 1 oz. One of the best\nperfumes.\n4. Rose essence 2 oz.\nTuberose essence 2 oz.\nRose spirit 2 oz.\nMusk tincture y% oz.\nAmbergris tincture 13^ oz.\nClove otto 10 min.\nBergamot otto y^ drm.\nMix. Cost, $2.60 per pint.\nStephanotis.\n1. Extract of cassia* 113 grm.\nExtract of tuberose 113 grm.\nExtract of jasmine 56 grm.\nExtract of musk 226 grm.\nExtract of iris 226 grm.\nExtract of tonka 85 grm.\nEssence of roses 1 grm.\nEssence of neroli 1 grm.\nBenzoic acid 1 grm.\nAlcohol 2 liters.\nS. Piesse, Chimie des Parfums.\n2. Extract of cassia 4 oz.\nExtract of tuberose 4 oz.\nExtract of jasmine 2 oz.\nExtract of musk 8 oz.\nExtract of orris 8 oz.\nExtract of tonka 3 oz.\nOtto rose, virgin 1 drm.\nOtto neroli super y 2 drm.\nBenzoic acid 1 drm.\nPure spirit sufficient to make 4 pints.\nStolen Kisses.— Extract jonquil, extract orris,\nof each, 1 qt.; extract tonquin, extract rose\ntriple, extract acacia, of each, 1 pt.; extract\ncivet, extract ambergris, of each, 34 pt.; otto\nof citronella, 1 drm.; otto of verbena, y± drm.\nExtract Tonka.— Take 1 lb. tonka beans re-\nduce to a coarse powder and percolate with\nalcohol to make 1 gal.\nTulip Nosegay. Extract tuberose, extract\nviolet, extract jasmine, from pomade of each,\n1 pt.; extract rose, 3^j pt.; extract orris, 3 oz.;\notto of almonds, 3 drops.\nExtract Styrax.— Eight drm. styrax balsam\ndissolved in 1 pt. of alcohol.\nSuave. Extract tuberose, extract jasmine,\nextract cassie and extract rose, from pomade\nof each, 1 pt.; extract vanilla, 5 oz.; extract\nmusk, extract ambergris, of each, 2 oz.; otto of\nbergamot, 34 oz.; otto of cloves, 1 drm.\nExtract of Tonquin Bean.— Tonquin beans, 1\nlb.; alcohol, 1 gal. Digest for a month at sum-\nmer heat.\nTuberose (Paleanthes Tuberosa).— The tuberose\nis a native of the East Indies. It is cultivated\nfor its perfume in southern France. Its odor\nis very fine, and is a general favorite.\nEssence of Tuberose.—\n1. Tuberose pomade 16 oz.\nDeodorized alcohol q. s. or 16 oz.\nProceed as with cassie.\n2. Extract tuberose 24 oz.\nExtract musk 4 oz.\nExtract jasmine 1 oz.\nOtto rose, virgin 1 drm.\nOtto neroli super 10 min.\nBenzoic acid 2 drm.\nPure spirit sufficient to make 4 pints.\n3. Tuberose essence 4 oz.\nOrris tincture oz.\nAmbergris tincture )4 oz.\nCost, $2.24 per pt.\n4. Essence of tuberose 15 oz.\nTincture of ambergris 1 oz.\nCost, $2.85 per pt.\n5. Extract tuberose from pomade. 8 pt.\nTrue cinnamon min.\nOil bergamot\nEssence de Tuberose.— The extra ii toripU of the\nflowers, or a still stronger oared\nwith rectified spirit, or a spirit ot ;ater\nstrength than that usually employed for ex-\ntraits. It is nearly colorless, but when re-\nquired white, or of still greatei th, the\nextrait triple is submitted to dis by the\nheat of a water bath, the process being con-\nducted as rapidly as possible, and the first half,\nor two-thirds, that comes over, being sep;\nly collected as the essence;. In geberal, how-\never, unless the process be very skilfully con-\nducted, the odor of the essence,\nthough stronger, is scarcely so chaste and deli-","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0409.jp2"},"406":{"fulltext":"Perfumery.\n394\nPerfumery.\ncate as that of the extrait from which it has\nbeen prepared.\nIn a similar way to essence de tuberose, the\nfiner qualities of Essences of honeysuckle,\njasmine or jessamine, jonquille, May blossom,\nMay lily, myrtle blossoms, narcissus, orange-\nflowers, roses, violets, wallflowers, and, of\nother flowers of extremely delicate perfume,\nare usually obtained by the Continental manu-\nfacturing perfumers; as also of essence of cas-\nsia, vanilla, etc., etc., except that the second is\nnot distilled.\nUpper Ten.—\nTincture of vanilla 4 oz.\nTincture of ambergris 3 oz.\nTincture of orris 3 oz.\nSpirit of rose 3 oz.\nEssence of orange flowers 3 oz.\nOil of bergamot 90 drops.\nOil of lemon 15 drops.\nCost, $2.75 per pt.\nVanilla (Vanilla Planifolia).—The best vanilla\nbeans come from Mexico. Tincture of vanilla\nis used as a fixing ingredient in some perfumes.\nTincture of Vanilla.\nVanilla beans 1 oz.\nWhite sugar 1 oz.\nDeodorized alcohol 16 oz.\nCut the beans into small pieces. Beat with\nthe sugar in a mortar until they are reduced to\na coarse powder. Macerate with the alcohol\nfor thirty days, and filter.\nEssence de Vanille Double.\nVanilla (finest) 12 oz.\nCloves 30 grn.\nAmbergris 7 grn.\nGrain musk 7 grn.\nEsprit d ambrette 1 pt.\nRectified spirit 1 pt.\nVanilla Tincture.\nVanilla beans 6 troy drm.\nAlcohol lpt.\nBeat the vanilla to coarse powder, macerate\nwith gentle heat for four hours and filter;\nwhile macerating keep a wet towel over mouth\nof the bottle, using a water bath.\nVerbena.—\nOil of lemon grass 50 drops.\nOil of lemon 320 drops.\nOil of neroli petale 20 drops.\nOil of orange 160 drops.\nEssence of orange flowers 3 oz.\nEssence of tuberose 3 oz.\nSpirit of rose 3 oz.\n^Deodorized alcohol 6 oz.\nCost, $1.90 per pint.\n2. Oil of lemon grass 3 drm.\nOil of lemon 4 drm.\nOil of orange 30 drops.\nDeodorized alcohol. 15 oz.\nCost, 60 cents per pint.\n3. Oil lemon grass 3 oz.\nOil bergamot 2 oz.\nExtract civet 1 oz.\nExtract benzoin 2 oz.\nAlcohol 2 gal.\nWater 3 pt.\n4. Mix verbena otto (true) 1 drm.\nLemon otto. 1 drm.\nAlcohol 8 oz.\nCost, $1 per pint.\n5. Alcohol, 1 pt.; otto of lemon grass, 3 drm.;\notto of lemon peel, 2 oz.; otto of orange peel, y\noz.\nExtract de Verveine— Alcohol, 1 pt.; otto of\norange peel, 1 oz.; otto of lemon peel, 2 oz.\notto of citron zeste, 1 dr.; otto of lemon grass,\n2*4, drm.; extract de fleur d orange, 7 oz.; ex-\ntract de tuberose, 7 oz.; esprit de rose, }4 pt.\njTiis mixture is exceedingly refreshing and is\none of the most elegant perfumes made. Being\nwhite, it does not stain the handkerchief.\nVictoria.—\nOtto rose, virgin 2 drm.\nOtto neroli super 2 drm.\nOtto bergamot 4 drm.\nOtto coriander 16 mim\nOtto pimento 24 min.\nOtto lavender, English 16 min.\nExtract jasmine 2 oz.\nExtract orris 16 oz.\nExtract musk 2 oz.\nBenzoic acid 2 oz.\nPure spirit sufficient to make 4 pints.\nViolets, Viola Odorata.—A very delicate odor,\nbut very fleeting; by the addition of some of\nthe stronger perfumes a very fine and popular\nperfume is obtained. Violets are cultivated in\nsouthern France.\nEssence of Violets.\n1. Violet pomade 16 oz.\nAlcohol deodorized q. s. or 16 oz.\nProceed as with cassie essence.\n2. Extract violet from pomade 4 pt.\nExtract orris 4 pt.\nExtract orange flower 2 oz.\nExtract cassie 2 oz.\nExtract ylang ylang 1 drm.\nOtto rose, Kissanlik J^ drm.\nCivet 1 oz.\nBergamot 1 drm.\nWater 4 oz.\n3. No. 1 ylang ylang 1 pt.\nExtract cassie from pomade 8 oz.\nExtract civet 2 oz.\nExtract vanilla 4 oz.\nExtract orris 1 pt.\nAlcohol 2 gal.\nWater 3 pt.\n4. Essence of violets 11 oz.\nEssence of cassie 2 oz.\nTincture of musk 1 oz.\nTincture of orris 2 oz.\nCost, $3 per pint.\n5. Essence of cassie 6 oz.\nEssence of rose 3 oz.\nEssence of tuberose 3 oz.\nTincture of orris 3 oz.\nSpirit of bitter almonds 1 oz.\nCost, $2.05 per pint.\nViolet Extract.—\n1. Violet essence 4 oz.\nCassie essence 1 oz.\nRose essence 3 drm.\nOrris Tincture 1 oz.\nAmbergris Tincture 2 drm.\nCivet Tincture 2 drm.\nAlmond spirit 20 min.\nCost, $2.90 per pt.\n2. Extract orris 2 pt.\nExtract tuberose 4 oz.\nExtract vanilla 3 oz.\nExtract musk 3 oz.\nExtract tonka 2 oz.\nOtto rose, virgin 1 drm.\nOtto neroli super 40 min.\nOtto pimento 12 min.\nOtto bergamot 1 drm.\nBenzoic acid 1 drm.\nPure spirit sufficient to make 4 pints.\nWood Violet\n1. Extact of violets, No. 2 16 oz.\nOil of bitter almonds 15 drops.\nCost $2.10 per pint.\n2. Extract of orris 12 oz.\nExtract of tuberose 2 oz.\nExtract of jasmin 1 oz.\nExtract of musk 4 oz.\nVetivert Spirit.—\nMix Vetivert otto 30 min.\nAlcohol 4 oz.\n:j","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0410.jp2"},"407":{"fulltext":"Perfumery.\n395\nPerspiration.\nVitivert or Kus Kus (Andropogon Mitrica-\ntus).— Is the rhizome of an Indian grass.\nSpirits of Vitivert.—\nOil of vitivert 30 drops.\nDeodorized alcohol 4 oz.\nEssence of Volkameria.— Esprit de violette, 1\npt.; esprit de tuberose, 1 pt.; esprit de jasmine,\nJ4 pt.; esprit de rose, }4 pt.; essence of musk,\n2 oz.\nRifle Volunteers 1 Garland.— Alcohol, 1 pt.;\notto of neroli, otto of rose, otto of lavender,\notto of bergamot, of each, J4 oz.; otto of cloves,\n8 drops; extract of orris, 1 pt.; extract of jas-\nmine, extract of cassie, of each, y± pt.; extract\nof musk, extract of ambergris, of each, 2}^ oz.\nEssence of Wallflower. Imitation. Extract\ndefleur d orange, 1 pt.; extract vanilla, pt-;\nesprit de rose, 1 pt.; extract of orris, ^1 pt.;\n■extract of cassie, pt.; essential oil of almonds,\n5 drops. It should be made up for two or three\nweeks before using.\nWest End\n1. Extract orris 13 oz.\nExtract jasmine 4 oz.\nExtract musk 8 oz.\nExtrcct cassia 4 oz.\nExtract styrax 1 oz.\nOtto bergamot 3 drm.\nOtto verbena (true) 15 min.\nOtto neroli super Y% drm.\nOtto rose, virgin 1 drm.\nOtto red cedar wood (true) 1 drm.\nBenzoic acid 1 drm.\nPure spirit. sufficient to make 4 pints.\n2. Mix Rose spirit 3 oz.\nBenzoin tincture 1 oz.\nMusk tincture 1 oz.\nVerbena extract oz.\nCivet tincture oz.\nSandalwood otto 10 min.\nCost, $1.65 per pint.\n3. Rose spirit 6 oz.\nVerbena extract 1 oz.\nBenzoin tincture 2 oz.\nCivet tincture 1 oz.\nMusk tincture 2 oz.\nSandal oil.. 20 m.\nYlang or Ihlang (Cananga Odorata).— This\nplant is found in the Philippines and the islands\nof the Indian Archipelago. The oil is obtained\nby distilling the flowers. The perfume is very\ncharming and lasting.\nSpirit of Ylang.—\nYlang oil 3 drm.\nDeodorized alcohol 16 oz.\nIn the following formulas, if the perfumes\nare too expensive, the ambergris can be omitted\nand civet substituted, except in extract of\nambergris. The musk can also be reduced in\nstrength one half, and still yield satisfactory\nresults. In all cases secure the best goods, re-\ngardless of price. In perfumes, as well as in\nmedicines, quality is of the first importance.\nWhen the perfumes are mixed they should be\nfrequently agitated, and allowed to stand two\nor three weeks before filtering.\nAge improves all perfumes, if kept in a\nmoderate atmosphere and in a dark place.\nYlang Ylang.\n1. Extract tonka 3 oz.\nExtract musk 4 oz.\nExtract tuberose 4 oz.\nExtract cassia 4 oz.\nExtract orris 8 oz.\nOtto orange (new) 2 drm.\nOtto neroli super drm.\nPure spirit sufficient to make 4 pt.\nSpirit of ylang. 8 oz.\nSpirit of rose 4 oz.\nEssence of jasmine 2 oz.\nTincture of civet 2 oz.\nCost, $2.70 per pint. This is my favorite it\ncombines fragrance and lasting qualities at a\nmoderate price.\n3. Oil ylang ylang 2 drm.\nExtract orange flower 2 oz.\nExtract civet 1 oz.\nExtract benzoin 1 oz.\nExtract vanilla oz.\nOil of Turkish rose 1 drm.\nAlcohol 2^ qt.\nWater 4 oz.\n4. Mix Ylang ylang otto 80 min.\nAlcohol 8 oz.\n5. Mix Ylang Ylang spirit 8 oz.\nJasmine essence 8 oz.\nCost, $3.44 per pt.\nPerry.— A fermented liquid, prepared from\npears in the same way as cider is from apples.\nThe reduced pulp must not be allowed to remain\nlong without being pressed. In the cask, perry\ndoes not bear changes of temperature so well\nas cider. It is therefore advisable, if at the end\nof the succeeding summer it be in sound con-\ndition, to bottle it, when it will keep perfectly\nwell. The red, rough tasted sorts of pears are\nprincipally used for making perry. They should\nbe quite ripe, without, however, approaching\nto mellowness or decay. The best perry con-\ntains about 9% of absolute alcohol; ordinary\nperry from 5% to 1%.\nPerry is a very pleasant tasted and whole-\nsome liquid. When bottled champagne fash-\nion, it is said to frequently pass for champagne\nwithout the fraud being suspected.\nPerspiration.— When perspiration is ex-\ncessive it may be regulated by using as a wash,\nonce a day, not of tener, for about two min-\nutes, liquor atropise, 2 drm.; water, 1 pt. The\nface and other parts may also be washed as\noften as desired with alum, 1 oz.; glycerine, 1\noz.; water, 10 oz.\nFor Excessive Perspiration of Hands or Feet.\nA German pharmaceutical journal recom-\nmends the following\nCarbolic acid 1 part.\nBurnt alum 4 parts.\nStarch 200 parts.\nFrench chalk 50 parts.\nOil of lemon 2 parts.\nMake a fine powder, to be applied to the\nhands and feet, or to be sprinkled inside the\ngloves or stockings.\nPerspiration, Prevention of.\nAcid tannic 2 scr.\nAqua rosal $4 oz.\nSpt. vin. rect %Y 2 oz.\nAquae 3 oz.\nUse as a wash, each night and morning, with\na soft sponge. The skin should be thoroughly\ncleansed with soap and warm water, and care-\nfully dried, and then apply the wash as di-\nrected.\nPerspiration Considered Medically.— T)o not\ntry to prevent perspiration. It is one of the\nrequirements of a healthy body. Closing up\nthe pores of the skin by the use of certain\nwashes or powders to prevent excessive per-\nspiration is a dangerous experiment. The\nperspiratory glands of the skin are scattered\neverywhere throughout the integument, being-\nmost abundant on the anterior portions of the\nbody. They consist each of a slender tube,\nabout j£ w of an inch in diameter, lined with\nglandular epithelium, which penetrates nearly\nthrough the entire thickness of the skin, and\nterminates below in a globular coil, very simi-\nlar In appearance to that of the ceruminous\nglands of the ear. These glands are very abun-\ndant in some parts. On the posterior portion","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0411.jp2"},"408":{"fulltext":"Petroleum.\n396\nPhosphorescent.\nof the trunk, the cheeks, and the skin of the\nthigh and leg, there are, according to Krause,\nabout 500 to the squai e inch; on the anterior\npart of the trunk, the forehead, the forearm,\nand the back of the hand and foot, 1,000 to the\nsquare inch; and on the sole of the foot and\npalm of the hand about 2,700 in the same space.\nThe whole number of perspiratory glands is\nnot less than 2,300,000, and the length of each\ntubular coil, when unraveled, about of an\ninch. The entire length must be not less than\n153,000 inches, or about two miles and a half.\nThe fluid derived from this extensive apparatus\nis the perspiration. It is a clear, colorless,\nwatery liquid, with a distinct acid reaction. Its\nconstitution is as follows: Water, 995*00; chlor-\nide of sodium, 2*23; chloride of potassium, 0*24;\nsulphate of soda and potassa, 0 01, salts of or-\nganic acids with soda and potassa, 2*02. Total,\n1,000-00.\nPetroleum Cement. See Cements.\nPetroleum, to Deodorize.— Mix chlor-\nide of lime with petroleum in the proportion of\nthree ounces for each gallon of the liquid to be\npurified. It is then introduced into a cask.\nSome muriatic acid is added and the mixture is\nwell agitated, so as to bring the whole of the\nliquid into intimate contact with the chlorine\ngas. Finally the petroleum is passed into an-\nother vessel containing slaked lime, which ab-\nsorbs the free chlorine and leaves the oil suffi-\nciently deodorized and purified.\nPewter. See Alloys.\nPewter,Burnishing.— The burnishing of\npewter articles is done after the work has been\nturned, or finished off with a scraper; the\nburnishers are of different kinds, for burnish-\ning articles either by hand, or in the lathe;\nthey are all of steel, and while in use are rub-\nbed with putty powder on leather, and moist-\nened with soapsuds.\nPewter, to Polish. See Polishing.\nPewter, to Solder. See Soldering.\nPharaoh s Serpents.— 1. These are little\ncones of sulphocyanide of mercury which,\nwhen lighted, give forth a long, serpent-like,\nyellowish brown body. Prepare nitrate of mer-\ncury by dissolving mercury dioxide in strong-\nnitric acid as long as it is taken up. Prepare\nalso sulphocyanide of ammonium by mixing 1\nvolume sulphide of carbon, 4 strong solution of\nammonia, and 4 alcohol. This mixture is to be\nfrequently shaken. In the course of about two\nhours, the bisulphide will have been dissolved,\nforming a deep red solution. Boil this until\nthe red color disappears and the solution be-\ncomes of a light yellow color. This is to be\nevaporated at about 80° P., until it crystallizes.\nAdd little by little the sulphocyanide to the\nmercury solution. The sulphocyanide of mer-\ncury will precipitate the supernatant liquid\nmay be poured off, and the mass made into\ncones of about y 2 in. in height. The powder of\nthe sulphocyanide is very irritating to the air\npassages, and the vapor from the burning\ncones should be avoided as much as possible.\nTo ignite them set them on a plate or the like,\nand light them at the apex of the cone.\n2. One grain of dry mercury sulphocyanide is\nmixed with 1 oz. gum tragacanth which has\npreviously been soaked in hot water. When\nthe gum is completely softened, it is transfer-\nred to a mortar and the mercury sulphocy-\nanide (in fine powder) is mixed with it by aid of\na little water, so as to turn out a somewhat dry\npill mass. This is then formed and cut into\npellets of the desired size, which are dried on\nglass. These are very poisonous, and must be\nhandled with care: do not inhale the fumes.\n3. Potassium dichromate, 2 parts potassium\nnitrate, one part white sugar, 3 parts. Pul-\nverize each ingredient separately, then mix\nthem thoroughly. Make small paper covers of\nthe desired size and press the mixture into\nthem.\n4. Harmless Pharaoh s Serpents.— A new\nmethod of making the curious chemical toys\ncalled Pharaoh s Serpents has been suggested\nby Vorbringer. The 3lack liquor which results\nas a useless product when coal oil is purified\nwith sulphuric acid is to be treated with fuming\nnitric acid. The dark colored resinous matter\nwhich swims on the surface is then collected,\nwashed and dried, when it forms a yellowish\nbrown mass having about the consistency of\nsulphur which has been melted and poured into\nwater. When this mass is ignited it undergoes\nsuch a wonderful increase in bulk that a cylin-\nder 1 in. long will give a snake about 4 ft. in\nlength.\nPhenol Phthalein Solution.— Dissolve\n1 part of the solid in 100 parts of alcohol, 60$.\nOn dropping an alkali in, the solution is red-\ndened and bleached by acids.\nPhenol Sodique.— Dr. E. Wildman, in the\nDental Times, remarks that this preparation of\ncarbolic acid is deservedly quite popular with\nthe medipal and dental professions, but its com-\nposition has not been made public. The fol-\nlowing formula is the result of numerous ex-\nperiments, and will give an article that will\ncompare favorably with the best French phe-\nnol sodique\nCarbolic acid in crystals 188 grn.\nCaustic soda 31 grn.\nPure water 4 fl. oz.\nMix.\nThe carbolic acid should be free from offen-\nsive odor, such as is prepared for medicinal pur-\nposes. When first mixed it is nearly colorless,\nbut in time assumes a wine color; does not de-\nposit any tarry residue, as is too often found in\nthe commercial article. Carbolic acid has a\nfeeble action as an acid, combining definitely\nwith a very small portion of alkali. When the\nquantity of soda used was just sufficient to neu-\ntralize the carbolic acid, the compound did not\nappear to be as efficient as the one resulting\nfrom the above formula.\nPhenyl Paper. See Paper.\nPhosphate Solution.— Magnesium car-\nbonate, 115 grn.; calcium carbonate, 115 grn.;\npotassium bicarbonate, 115 grn.; phosphoric\nacid, 2 oz.; water, 1 pt.\nPhosphorescent Substances. See also\nPaint, Luminous.— Phosphorescence, or the\nemission of light without flame or sensible ele-\nvation of temperature, is a phenomenon ex-\nhibited in a greater or lesser degree by many\nsubstances— mineral, animal and vegetable\nand is developed under a variety of conditions.\nIn a few substances the light is developed by\nchemical change or a process of slow combus-\ntion, as in the case of phosphorus, from which\nthe name phosphorescence has been derived. In\nothers the substance suffers no appreciable\nchange, only requiring exposure to a strong\nlight to shine themselves when taken into the\ndark. The diamond and many mineral sub-\nstances develop light in this way, and it is sup-\nposed that these substances have the property\nof absorbing light in the same way they do neat,\nand of slowly parting with it when taken into\nthe dark, much in the same way that hot bodies\npart with their heat when removed from the\nsource of heat.\nWith some of these substances the applica-\ntion of heat causes the development of brighter\nlight (though for a shorter time than would be\notherwise required to exhaust the supply), and\nagain, there are some substances, such as fluor-\nspar, that absorb light, but do not give it out\nuntil heated.\nMany substances also become phosphores-\ncent while crystallizing.\nThe color of the light developed by many of\nthese substances varies with their nature and\nthe degrees of heat to which they have been\nexposed. A certain scale of light and color\nmay, therefore, be produced by grouping to-\nI","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0412.jp2"},"409":{"fulltext":"Phosphorescent.\n397\nPhotography.\ngether different substances or samples of the\nsame substances previously heated at differ-\nent temperatures.\nThe fblolwing are methods for preparing\nsome of these pyrophors\nBarium Sulphide.— Finely powdered barium\nsulphate, free from iron, is formed into balls\nwith gum tragacahth; the balls are dried at a\nmoderate temperature, then placed in a cruci-\nble with a luted cover, and kept at a red\nheat for an hour. They are then allowed to\ncool slowly, and while still warm are trans-\nferred to glass stoppered bottles.\nA better light is developed from the follow-\ning charge\nBarium sulphate (C. P.) 32 parts.\nMagnesium carbonate (C. P.) 1 part.\nSulphur (C. P.) 1 part.\nGum tragacanth q. s.\nThis is heated in the crucible as before de-\nscribed.\nStrontium Sulphide-\nStrontium, sulphate (C. P.) 22 parts.\nSulphur (C. P.) lpart.\nGum tragacanth q. s.\nProceed as before.\nCalcium Sulphide. (Cantoris Phosphorus.)—\nCalcine clean oyster shells to whiteness in a\ncrucible, separate the clearer portions, reduce\nthese to a fine powder, and place in layers with\nintermediate layers of flowers of sulphur in a\ncrucible, cover and heat to dull redness for\nabout half an hour. Cover the crucible tightly\nand let it cool slowly in the crucible.\nAnother method of preparing this phospor-\nescent sulphide is to heat bisulphide of lime-\nobtained by boiling lime in a little water with\ntwice its weight of sulphur— in a covered cru-\ncible at a low red heat for one hour.\nCalcium and Antimony Sulphides.\nCalcined oyster shells 3 parts.\nFlowers of sulphur 10 parts.\nAntimonic acid 1 part.\nMix intimately in fine powder and heat for\nhalf an hour in a covered crucible at low red-\nness.\nChloride of Calcium.— Fuse chloride of cal-\ncium in a crucible and pour it out on a clean\niron plate. As soon as it becomes cold enough,\nbreak it into pieces and transfer to well stop-\npered bottles.\nCalcium Nitrate.— Dissolve chalk or marble\ndust in nitric acid, evaporate to dryness, and\nfuse in a porcelain crucible.\nThese substances, when properly prepared and\nexposed to any strong light for a short time,\nexhibit phosphorescence for some time after\nremoving to a dark place. A calcium sulphide\nhas been prepared that, after a short exposure\nto sunlight, will continue to give out light for\nten hours in the dark. When, by keeping in\nthe dark, one of these substances has ceased to\ngive out light, it may be made to give a series\nof fresh exhibitions by heating it first with the\nhand, then over a water bath, and finally on a\nhot stone plate.\nA remarkable phophorescence is developed\nin quinia and some of its salts by heat. Spread\nquinia or its sulphate on a sheet of paper, and\nspread the paper on a plate of hot metal in a\ndark room— a strong phosphorescent light de-\nvelops at the edges and spreads to the center.\nA similar display is observed in sprinkling finely\npowdered fluorspar (calcium fluoride) over a\nplate of hot metal in the dark.\nBoracic acid fused and allowed to cool breaks\ninto small pieces, and along the cracks a phos-\nphorescent light appears, which is sometimes\nstrong enough to be visible even in daylight.\nPotassium sulphate fused with cream of tartar\nshows the same phenomenon.\nPhospho rats.— Phosphureted oil is the best\nmeans of exhibiting the luminous properties\nof phosphorus. A small piece of dry phos-\nphorus, about the size of a pea, is placed in a\ntest tube with a little pure olive oil. The test\ntube is held in the water bath until the oil be-\ncomes heated and the phosphorus liquefies; it is\nthen shaken until the oil will take up no more\nphosphorus, and after allowing the oil to be-\ncome clear, it is poured off inio a small glass\nvial provided with a glass stopper. Only a\nsmall quantity of this oil in the bottom of the\nvial is necessary. When it is shaken about so\nas to coat the sides of the vessel, and the stop-\nper is removed so as to let the air get in, the oil\ncoated sides of the glass become at once lumi-\nnous, and continue so long as the stopper re-\nmains out. Characters written on paper with\noil thus prepared (freshly), appear in the dark\nvery brightly.\nPhosphureted ether is prepared by digesting\nphosphorus in ether for some days in a tightly\nstoppered bottle. A piece of sugar dipped\ninto this ethereal solution and then thrown\ninto water makes the surface of the latter ap-\npear quite luminous in the dark.\nYoung experimenters must remember that\nphosphorus is very dangerous to handle when\nout of water, and often inflames spontaneously\nwhen exposed dry in the air.\nPhotographs. See Photography.\nPhotographs, Lacquer for. See Lac-\nquers.\nPhotography.— The subject of photogra-\nphy has received much attention in compiling\nthis book. Only those formulas were selected\nthat came from undoubted authorities. The re-\nceipts do not form merely a collection of old\nreceipts of the collodion process, but are the\nvery latest that could be obtained, and the sub-\nject of photography has been thoroughly re-\nvised as the book passed through the press,\nand it is hoped the result will prove a valuable\nacquisition to the art science. Specieal atten-\ntion has been given to the Eikonoger developer\nwhich is considered the best. Look for the\nmain subjects, as Developers, Toning Baths, etc.\nAphorisms, Photographic.— 1. When focusing,\nremember that the nearer the camera is to the\nsubject the further away must the ground\nglass be from the lens, and vice versa.\n2. Always endeavor to shade the lens as much\nas possible, and the resulting picture will have\nits brihiancy proportionately augmented.\nMany landscape artists use a large cone-shaped\nhood on the lens for this purpose.\n3. On a hot summer day the atmosphere is\noften hazy and highly charged with non-ac-\ntinic light, while after, or even during a\nshower of rain the atmosphere is clear and\nbright.\n4. Give your plants full exposure over ex-\nposure is more easily corrected in the developer\nthan is under exposure.\n5. Clouds, being eight or ten times more ac-\ntinic than the rest of the picture, will be pro-\nportionately over exposed, and unless they re-\nceive much less exposure than the foreground,\nwhich may be attained by the use of a drop\nshutter, they will appear in the finished picture\nas a blank space. They may, however, be af-\nterward printed in from a separate negative\nby what is termed combination printing.\n6. The color of the object is a great factor in\nthe exposure required whites and blues are\nrapid red, brown, yellow, etc., are slow, accord-\ning to their actinism.\n7. Buildings taken full front elevation never\nlook well the camera should be placed in a\nposition to include the front and one side,\nshowing the building in perspective.\n8. When the two sides of a picture are very\nsimilar, as in a street scene, for example, sym-\nmetry should generally be avoided. By plac-\ning the camera a little to one side, and pointing\nthe lens at the other, the facsimile of the sides\nmay be subdued.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0413.jp2"},"410":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n398\nPhotography.\n9. Aim at the quality rather than the quan-\ntity of the views taken.\n10. Remember that photography, being- a wit-\nness, needs to be treated with much judgment,\nlest it tells lies. Also that those who use the most\nart betray the least. And lastly, never go\nforth without a large reserve of patience, as it\nis sure to be needed. See also Negative, Failures,\nPhotographing.\nAutotypes, Flexible Supports for.— Yellow\nresin, 6 dr.; yellow beeswax, 2 dr.; rectified\nspirits of turpentine, 20 oz,\nBackgrounds, Photographic— Purchase close-\ngrained packing canvas cloth. Tack on frame\nand pull out projecting fibers. The cloth does\nnot need to be stretched too tight, as it shrinks\nwhen painted. Coat it two or three times with\nthe following mixture\nLow grade of gelatine lb.\nWater 1 gal.\nMolasses 2 oz.\nWhiting M lb.\nSandpaper after drying to make it smooth,\nthen paint with one coat of ordinary oil paint.\nThe white lead ground in oil is thinned\nwith turpentine and mixed with lampblack,\npart of which has been ground in oil, and part\nin powder. The color should be a dark brown.\nOne coat of flatting is next put on, usually by\ntwo persons, one to paint and the other to dab\nwith a soft brush. A drab colored cloth, mer-\nino or woolen, answers very well.\nBacking Prints to Prevent Halation. See Hala-\ntion.\nBaths, Silver, to Clear.— Agitate with China\nclay or kaolin.\nBaths, Silver, to Renovate.— 1. Dilute with 3\nvolumes of distilled water, expose to sunlight,\nfilter, add sodium carbonate till slightly turbid.\nExpose to sunlight six hours more, filter, add\nsodium carbonate till the silver is all thrown\ndown. Wash precipitate by decantation, then\ndissolve in nitric acid. Filter again, make up\nto 35 grm; neutralize, expose to the sun a week,\nand the bath is ready for use.\n2. Neutralize with ammonia till just alkaline;\nboil till black; let it cool, filter, acidify with\npure nitric acid and evaporate to crystalliza-\ntion, then fuse. When cool add distilled water,\nshake and let stand exposed to light. Filter\nand add drained crystals; dissolve and make\nsolution acid with pure nitric acid. Expose\nagain to sunlight, filter, and the bath is ready\nfor use.\n3. Add potassium permanganate, expose to\nsunlight, filter, acidify, put in clean bottles\nfour-fifths full, cork and freeze in a tray; thaw\ngradually till a ball of ice y% size of the bottle\nremains. Remove this and use the rest. [This\nreceipt should be used with caution, if at all; if\nthe freezing is carried too far the bottle will\ninevitably be broken.— Ed.]\nTo Blacken Cameras.— A good dead black is\nmade as follows Mix drop black, ground in\nturps, with gold size and turps— enough gold\nsize to keep the black from rubbing off when\ndry.\nBlistei^s, to Prevent.— After toning, immerse in\na mixture of 8 parts methylated spirit and 2\nparts of water.\nBlistering of Albumen Paper.— 1. Have the\nroom warm, but do not dry the paper by ex-\ncessive heat.\n2. Avoid acidity in solutions. Test with lit-\nmus paper. Moisten the print before washing\nwith a sponge saturated in alcohol.\n3. Add a slight trace of ammonia to the hypo.\n4. Soak the print before fixing in a weak alum\nbath.\nBlue Prints. Float the paper for one minute\nin a solution of\nFerricyanide of potash 1 oz.\nWater 5oz.\nDry it in a dark room and then expose be-\nneath negative Until the dark shades have as-\nsumed a deep blue color; then immerse the\nprint in a solution of—\nWater 2 oz.\nBichloride mercury 1 gm.\nWash the print and then immerse it in a hot\nsolution of\nOxalic acid 4 drm.\nWater 4 oz.\nWash again and dry.\nFor other prints in red, etc., see Printing\nProcesses below.\nBlue Print Process.— 1. Cover a flat board, the\nsize of the drawing to be copied, with two or\nthree thicknesses of common blanket or its\nequivalent.\n2. Upon this place the prepared paper, sensi-\ntive side uppermost.\n3. Press the tracing firmly and smoothly up-\non this paper by means of a plate of clear glass\nlaid over both and clamped to the board.\n4. Expose the whole in a clear sunlight from\nfour to six minutes. In a winter s sun from\nsix to ten minutes. In a clear sky from twenty\nto thirty minutes.\n5. Remove the prepared paper and pour clear\nwater on it for one or two minutes, saturating\nit thoroughly, and hang up to dry.\nThe sensitive paper may be readily prepared,\nthe only requisite quality in the paper itself\nbeing its ability to stand washing.\nCover the surface evenly with the following\nsolution, using such a brush as is generally\nemployed for the letter press One part soluble\ncitrate of iron (or citrate of iron and am-\nmonia), 1 part red prussiate of potash and dis-\nsolve in 10 parts of water.\nThe solution must be kept carefully protected\nfrom light, and better results are obtained by\nnot mixing the ingredients until immediately\nrequired. After being coated with the solu-\ntion the paper must be laid away to diy in a\ndark place, and must be shielded entirely f rom\nlight until used. When dry, the paper is of a\nyellow and bronze color. After exposure the\nsurface becomes darker, with the lines of the\ntracing still darker. Upon washing the char-\nacteristic blue tint appears, with the lines of\nthe tracing in vivid contrast. Excellent re-\nsults have been obtained from glass negatives\nby this process.— B. W. Jones, Proc. Eng, Club,\nPhila.\n3. Use two separate solutions of\nIron and ammonium citrate 1 oz.\nWater 4 oz.\nand\nPotassium ferricyanide 1 oz.\nWater 4 oz.\nFor use, mix equal quantities and float paper\nfor two minutes.\nBlue Prints, to Change to Brown.—\nBorax 2J^ oz.\nHot water 38 oz.\nWhen cool add sulphuric acid in small quanti-\nties until blue litmus paper turns slightly red,\nthen add a few drops of ammonia until the al-\nkaline reaction appears and red litmus paper\nturns blue. Then add to the solution 154 grn.\nof red crude gum catechu. Allow it to dissolve\nwith occasional stirring. The solution will\nkeep indefinitely. After the print has been\nwashed out in the usual way, immerse it in the\nabove bath a minute or so. longer than it ap-\npears when the desired tone is reached. An\nolive brown or a blackish .brown is the result.\nTo Make Blue Prints Green.— Make four solu-\ntions as follows:\nSolution A.— Water 8 oz and a crystal of ni-\ntrate of silver as big as a pea.\nSolution B.— Hydrochloric acid 1 oz. and\nwater 8 oz.\nSolution O— Pour a solution of iodide of po-\ntassium (iodide of potassium 1 oz. and water 8\noz.) into a saturated solution of bichloride of\nmercury until the red precipitate is just dis-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0414.jp2"},"411":{"fulltext":"Ph otog-raphy\n399\nPhotography.\nsolved, and then add four times as much water\nas the resulting solution.\nSolution D.— Water, 16 oz., and iodide of po-\ntassium, 1 drm.\nThen take the blue print and bleach it with\nsolution A, when the image will become pale\nslate color or sometimes a pale yellow.\nThen wash thoroughly and immerse the print\nin solution B, when the image will again become\nblue.\nThen, without washing, immerse the print in\nsolution C, when the image will become green\nbut the •whites will be of a j-ellow tint.\nThen put the print in solution B again, with-\nout washing.\nThen wash and pour solution D over the\nprint to purify the whites and to give the\ngreen image a bluer tint but do not leave print\nin this solution too long, as it has a tendency to\nmake the print blue again.\nConverting Blue Prints^ into Brown Prints.\nImmerse the blue print after it is dried in a so-\nlution of aqua ammonia containing 22 per cent.\nam. gas, 2 parts; distilled water, 18 parts.\nLeave the print in this solution from two to\nfour minutes, or until the blue color entirely\ndisappears, then rinse in clear water, and\nplunge in a filtered solution of tannic acid, 2\nparts; distilled water, 100 parts. Keep in this so-\nlution about twelve hours. If not as dark as\ndesired, intensify by adding to the bath a few\ndrops of ammonia water. Take out after a few\nminutes and wash thoroughly. The prints\nresemble sepia drawings. A greenish tone may\nbe given blue prints by immersing after wash-\ning in a 1 per cent solution of sulphuric acid.\nObtaining Warm Brown Tones on Bromide\nPaper or Lantern Slides.— Two formula? given\nby Mr. Robert Talbot in the Photographische\nNeuheiten, the author states, have proved to be\nvery successful in his hands\n1. With uranium nitrate. This method is\nvery well suited for Eastman positive paper, as\nwell as for transf errotype paper. After the\nprints have been fixed, washed, and eventually\ntransferred, the following two solutions are\nprepared\nSolution A.\nFerricyanide of potassium 5 grm.\nWater 500c. c.\nSolution B.\nUranium nitrate 5 grm.\nWater 500 c. c.\nJust before use, equal parts of solutions A\nand B are mixed. The print is immersed in the\nsolution until the desired tone has been ob-\ntained, then washed thoroughly, and placed\nonce more in the fixing bath.\nWater 100 c. c.\nHyposulphite of soda 20 grm.\nAfter five minutes it is removed and well\nwashed. The above gives warm red tones.\nWarm brown tones are obtained if the print is\nallowed to remain in the above bath until it\nbegins to acquire a brown color; it is then im-\nmersed in a weak alum solution, when it is\nrinsed, fixed as above, and again thoroughly\nwashed.\n2. With potassium chloride. Three solutions\nare prepared\nSolution A.\nWater 1,000 c. c.\nPotassium oxalate 330 grm.\nSolution B.\nWater 1,000 c. c.\nPotossium chloride 130 grm.\nSolution C.\nWater 500 c. c.\nSulphate of iron 24 grm.\nCitric acid 2 grm.\nPotassium bromide..., 2 grm.\nThe paper should be fully exposed, and then\nsoaked in clean water. Then mix.\nSolution A 20 c. c.\nSolution B 5 c. c.\nSolution C 5 c. c.\nThe more of B, if taken, the browner will be\nthe tone. The print is cleared, fixed, and\nwashed as usual.— Photo News.\nSilver Bromide Emulsions.— Over exposed\ngelatino bromide prints may be cleared by\ntreating them with a very dilute solution of\npotassium cyanide, to which a small quantity\nof iodine has been added. Fog at the edges of\nthe paper may be removed by applying a some-\nwhat stronger solution with a brush, care be-\ning taken not to touch the image.— C. T. F.\nPhot. A., xxxi.\nBromide prints on paper or opal maybe toned\nwith the Obernetter toning solution for gela-\ntino-chloride paper, viz. (A) Gold chloride, 15\ngrn.; sodium acetate, 1 oz.; water, 39 oz. (B)\nGold chloride, 15 grn.; ammonium sulphocy-\nanide, 300 grn.; water, 39 oz. Mix 10 parts of A\nwith 3 parts of B. Wash thoroughly after ton-\ning.-F. Golby; Y. B. Photo., 1891.\nAnother toning formula, designed especially\nfor Eastman s paper, is ammonium sulpho-\ncyanide, 120 grn. (120 parts); gold chloride, 4\ngrn. (4 parts); water, 16 oz. (7,000 parts). The\nprints must not be left in after they become\nblue gray, or they will be deep blue when dried.\nThis last color is suitable for moonlight effects.\nH. W. B. Bruno.\nDeveloping formulas (D) Hydrochinon, 80\ngrn.; sodium sulphite, 240 grn.; water, 10 oz. (A)\nSodium carbonate solution, saturated at 60° F.\nMix in equal volumes, and dilute the mixture\nwith its own volume of water. Pringle, A.\nPhot., xi.\n(D) Hydrochinon, 80 grn.; potassium bromide,\n15 grn.; sodium sulphite, 1 oz.; water, 20 oz.; ci-\ntric acid, 60 grn. (A) Potassium carbonate, 2\noz.; sodium carbonate, 2 oz.; water, 20 oz. Mix\nin equal proportions; gives warm tones. B. Al-\nfieri, A. Phot., xi.\n(D) Eikonogen, 15 parts; sodium sulphite, 60\nparts; water, 600 parts. (A) Potassium carbon-\nate, 24 parts; water, 600 parts; mix in equal pro-\nportions, and add few drops 10^ potassium bro-\nmide solution.— Carbutt, Phot. T.\nEikonogen, 4 grn.; sodium sulphite, 32 grn.;\nlithium carbonate, 2 grn.; water to 1 oz.\n—Cowan, Phot. N., xxxi v.\nQuinol, 2 grn.; sodium sulphite, 8 grn.; potas-\nsium carbonate, 10 grn.; water to 1 oz.— Cowan,\nibid. [Quinol Hydrochinon. Ed.]\nBromide Prints, to Secure Pure Whites in.\nIf the whites of bromide prints are found on\ncompletion to be yellowed, the stain can be\ncompletely removed by immersing the print\nafter fixing, and thorough washing in a strong\nsolution of tartaric acid, keeping it in the\nsolution for an hour or more, if necessary, and\nfinally washing in clean water.\nBurnishing, Lubricator for.\nA.\n1. Paraffine 8 drm.\nBenzine 10 oz.\nB.\nGum ammoniacum 30 grn.\nAlcohol, quantity sufficient to prevent the\ngum from sticking to the pestle while grinding\nthe gum in a mortar. Add A and B together,\nand shake well and apply with a flannel or rag.\nThe above gives a fine polish.\n2. Lubricator for Hot Burnishing.—\nCetaceum 1 part.\nCastile soap 1 part.\nAlcohol 100 parts.\n3. Glace Lubricator.— If a greater polish is\ndesired than can be produced by the ordinary\nsoap and alcohol lubricator, the following may\nbe employed Alcohol, absolute, 4 fl. oz.; Castile\nsoap (white), 25 grn.; permaceti, 25 grn. Dis-","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0415.jp2"},"412":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n400\nPhotography.\nsolve by heat add 1 fl. oz. chloroform. Apply\nin the usual manner. Dry thoroughly, and re-\nmove all traces of the lubricator with a piece\nof Canton flannel. Burnish have the bur-\nnisher quite hot. (Swain.)\n4. Burnishing Solution.—\nCastile soap 4 grn.\nAlcohol (90%) 1 oz.\nRub on the surface of the print, allow to dry,\nthen burnish.\nCarbon Tissue, Sensitizing Solution for.— Po-\ntassic bichromate 1% oz.; water, 30 oz.; am-\nmonia, at least V/z drm. No more ammonia\nshould be used than will change the reddish\ncolor of the bichromate solution to yellow.\nCatechol. See Developers.\nTo Cleanse the Hands from Silver and Iron\nStains.— Dilute hydrochioric acid to half its\nstrength; or, better still, chloride of lime in\nstrong solution; pour 34 oz. of this on the\nhands, and rub well in till the stains disappear.\nNext rinse the hands and apply a little dilute\nsolution of potassium oxalate.\nTo Clean Negatives Stained hy Silver.— Make a\nweak solution of cyanide potassium. Rub the\nnegative gently all over with a plug of cotton\nwool well wet in this solution, rubbing a little\nharder on the stained parts. Wash the nega-\ntive well, and dry on blotting paper. If de-\nsired to revarnish, the plate may be flooded\nonce or twice with methylated spirit. After\ndrying it may be varnished in the ordinary\nway.\nClearing Solution (Edwards\n1. Alum 1 oz.\nCitric acid 1 oz.\nSulphate of iron 3 oz.\nWater 20 oz.\nSoak for a minute or two, when clearing\nshould be complete.\n2. Clearing Solution for Pyro Negatives.— (J.\nHay Taylor.)— Alum, 2 oz.; hydrochloric acid,\n2 fl. oz.; boracic acid, 1 oz.; water, 32 fl. oz. The\nsolution can be used over and over again. It\nwill do its work in y% minute. The negative\nshould be well washed.\n3. Clearing Solution for Gelatine Bromide\nPlates.— Alum, 2 oz.; citric acid, 2 oz.; sul-\nphate iron, 6 oz.; water, 40 oz.\n4. Sometimes by prolonged development ne-\ngatives become stained, and usually clearing\nsolutions are employed after the negative is\nfixed.\nMr. T. Bedding, in the British Journal of\nPhotography, advises the use of an alum and\ncitric acid bath, one part of citric acid to thirty\nof alum, before fixing. When the developer\nhas been poured off the negative, the latter has\nbeen washed in a couple of changes of water,\nand the clearing solution applied for a few\nminutes, after which it may be returned to the\nbottle for future use. It is then important\nthat the negative be carefully washed prior to\nimmersion in the fixing bath.\n5. Saturated solution of alum, 10 fl. oz.; hydro-\nchloric acid (commercial), 34 oz. After fixing\nand washing the negative, immerse in the above\nsolution. Wash well.\n6. Negatives which, after development by\nferrous oxalate, are opalescent from oxalate of\nlime, are immersed in the following solution\nWater 100 parts.\nOxalate of iron 2 parts.\nAlum 8 parts.\nBy which the opalescence will be completely\ncleared, and the whites of the negative will re-\nmain transparent.\n7. Clearing Solution (Cowel s).—\nAlum 2 oz.\nCitric acid 1 oz.\nWater 10 oz.\nWash moderately after fixing, and immerse\nthe negative in the above.\n8. Saturated solution of alum 20 oz.\nHydrochloric acid (commercial). 1 oz.\nImmerse the negative after fixing, having\npreviously washed it for two or three minutes\nunder the tap; wash well after removal from\nthe alum and acid.\n9. Chautauqua Clearing Solution.— Alum, 2\noz.; water, 30 fl. oz.; citric acid, 34 oz.\nClouds, Photographing of.— The best time to\nphotograph clouds is in the spring, say March or\nApril, when, after a storm, the heavy cloud\nbanks assume fantastic forms. To successfully\nphotograph clouds, the photographer must\ntake up a position where his view will be un-\nobstructed by trees, houses, telegraph posts,\nchimneys, or other high objects. Then focus-\ning upon the extreme distance, and including\nbut a small portion of the landscape in his pic-\nture, let him, if he has not fixed upon the\ncloud, wait until the effect is most striking,\nthen with a rapid shutter and a medium stop,\nsay, f/22 and a slow plate, let him make his\nexposure. Development should not be too\nheavy, and should be stopped when all detail\nis fully out and sufficiently dense not to dis-\nappear in the fixing. With a suitably selected\nand properly developed negative of cloudland,\nlandscape pictures can very frequently be con-\nsiderably improved by the operation of print-\ning in from the cloud negatives.\nClouds, Printing in.— Many pictures are im-\nproved by the addition of clouds. A bare ex-\npanse of white sky is very rarely attractive.\nTo do this, special cloud negatives must be\nmade or purchased. It is essential, to secure a\nsatisfactory and pleasing effect, that the cloud\nshould be lit from the same direction as the\nnegative. Having made a suitable selection of\ntwo negatives, a print is first taken of the land-\nscape. If the negative is very dense in the sky\nit will print out quite white. Two prints should\nbe taken, one to make the final picture, the\nother to serve as a mask. This must be care-\nfully cut through along the line dividing the\nblank sky from the objects in the picture. Fine\nbranches of trees and such like projections need\nnot be troubled with. Having carefully fitted\nthis mask over the printed portion of the pic-\nture, it is piaced in contact with the cloud\nnegative and printed in the usual way, the\nmask protecting the lower portion of the\nprinted picture from further action of the\nlight. If the sky portion of the original nega-\ntive is thin and it would in the ordinary course\nof printing print out more or less tinted, the\nsky must be blocked out. This can be done by\nrunning a brush filled with vermilion along the\nface of the negative for an eighth of an inch\nabove the sky line, and then cutting a rough\nmask of paper and pasting on to meet this and\ncover up the rest of the sky. This will enable\nthe sky portion to print perfectly white, when\nit is ready for the reception of the cloud im-\npressions in the manner just described.\nCollodio Bromide Emulsion.—\nEther, s. g. 0 720 4 fl. oz.\nAlcohol, s. g. 0-820 2J4 fl. oz.\nPyroxyline 40 grn.\nCastile soap dissolved in alco-\nhol 30 grn.\nBromide of ammonium and\ncadmium 56 grn.\nDissolve 125 grn. nitrate of silver in 1 oz. boil-\ning alcohol and sensitize the emulsion by add-\ning 1 drm. of the silver* solution at a time,\nthoroughly stirring with a glass rod until the\nsilver is well incorporated. After the whole\nhas stood for twelve hours, add 30 grn. more of\nthe double bromide of ammonium and cad-\nmium dissolved in 34 oz. alcohol. After stand-\ning for a few hours longer the emulsion is\npoured into a flat dish and allowed to evapo-\nrate and dry. It is then washed with distilled\nwater by repeated soakings until all the soluble\nsalts are removed. After drying it is again re-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0416.jp2"},"413":{"fulltext":"Phot ography.\n401\nPhotography.\ndissolved in equal parts of alcohol, at the rate\nof from 20 to 24 grn. to the oz. of solvents.\nThen it is ready for use, and plates may be used\nwet or dry.\nCollodion Formula.— Mix 6 oz. sulphuric acid,\n4 oz. nitric acid at 1*450 sp. gr. and 2 oz. water.\nThe temperature will rise to about 170° F., 77°\nC. When it is cooled down to about 100° F., 38°\nC., immerse perfectly dry cotton wool, best\ncarded and of long fiber, pull it in under the\nacid with a piece of glass rod, and let each\npiece be well saturated before adding another.\nCover the vessel and leave it for twelve to\ntwenty hours in a situation where any fumes\ngenerated may escape into the outer air.\nNext lift the cotton out and plunge it quickly\ninto a large quantity of water, separating the\ntufts with pieces of glass; wash in changes of\nwater till no acid is left. Wring the cotton in\na coarse towel as dry as possible, and then pull\nout the tufts and place them in the air to dry.\nCollodion made with this cotton will be very\nsoluble and leave no sediment; 5 to 6 grn. will\ndissolve in 1 oz. mixed ether and alcohol and\nstill the collodion will be very fluid.\nTo prepare one pint of collodion with\nabove—\n1. Alcohol 10 oz.\nSulphuric ether 5 oz.\nCotton as above 100 grn.\nTo Iodize—\n2. Alcohol.. 5 oz.\nAmmonium iodide 60 grn.\nCadmium iodide 30 grn.\nCadmium bromide 20 grn.\nShake till dissolved and then pour into 1.\nAnother plan, better for small quantities\nDissolve the iodides, as above, in 10 oz. alco-\nhol, then put in 100 grn. cotton and shake well.\nLastly, add 10 oz. ether and shake till cotton is\ndissolved. This collodion will be ready for use\nin a few hours, but will improve with age.\nFor Washed Eumlsion (for Transparen-\ncies-\nEther, s. g. 720 5 fl. oz.\nAlcohol, s. g. 0-820 3 fl. oz.\nPyroxiline pr papyroxyline... 60 grn.\nBromide of cadmium and am-\nmonium 100 grn.\nOr Bromide of zinc 96 grn.\nHydrochloric acid, s. g. 1 2 8 min.\nSensitize with 20 gr. of nitrate of silver to\n•each oz. dissolved in a minimum of water with\n2 dr. of boiling alcohol. Allow to stand for\ntwo or three days.\nN. B.— In the last three formula?, the emul-\nsion, after being allowed to ripen for the time\nstated, should be poured into a dish and allowed\nto become thoroughly dry. The mass of dry\nemulsion is then washed, to remove all the sol-\nuble salts, and is then again dried and redis-\nsolved in eaual parts of ether and alcohol at\nthe rate of from 20 to 24 gr. to the oz. of sol-\nvents.\nOrganifiers (for Unwashed Emulsions).— For\nLandscape Work.\n1. Tannin oz.\nGallic acid 60 gr.\nWater 20 fl. oz.\n2. Tannin 300 gr.\nWater 20 fl. oz.\nFor Landscapes or Transparencies (warm,\nbrown tone).—\n3. Freshly ground coffee 1 oz.\nBoiling water 1 pt.\nFor Transparencies (brownish black tone.)—\n4. Tannin 30 gr.\nPyrogallic acid 60 gr.\nWater 20 fl. oz.\nDeveloping Solutions for Collodion Emulsion.\nA. Pyrogallic acid 96 gr.\nAlcohol 1 fl.oz.\nB. Bromide of potassium 10 gr\nWater 1 fl. oz.\nC. Liquor ammonia, s. g. 0*880 1 fl. dr.\nW ater 15 fl. dr.\nD. Carbonate of ammonia 2 gr.\nWater 1 fl.oz.\nFor each drm. of developer take, for a nor-\nmal exposure, 5 min. of A, 1 or 2 min. of B, and\n1 or 2 min. of C; or if D be used, add the above\nquantities of A, B and C to 1 drm. of D. When\nthe details of the image are out, add double the\nquantities of B and C.\nIntensifying Solutions for Collodion Emulsion.--\nNitrate of silver. 60 gr.\nCitric acid 80 gr.\nNitric acid 30 min.\nWater 2 oz.\nTo each drm. of a 3 grn. solution of pyrogal-\nlic acid add 2 or 3 min. of the above, and apply\nuntil sufficient density is attained.\nCollodion Bottles, to Clean.— Leave the stopper\nout until all the ether and alcohol have evapo-\nrated; when dry, remove the film with water\nand a bottle brush. Rinse with alcohol.\nDry Collodion Processes.— Pyroxyline.— For\nCollodio Bromide or Unwashed Emulsion.\nNitric acid, sp. gr. 1 45\nSulphuric acid, sp. gr. 1*845\nWater\nCotton (cleaned and carded)\nTemperature.\n2\nfl.oz.\n4\nfl. oz.\n1\nfl.oz.\n100\ngrn.\n150°\nF.\nTime of immersion, ten minutes.\n1. For Washed Emulsion.—\nNitric acid, sp. gr. 1*45 2 fl. oz.\nSulpuric acid, sp. gr. 1*845 6 fl.oz.\nWater 1 fl.oz.\nCotton (cleaned and carded) 100 grn.\nTemperature 140° F.\nTime of immersion, ten minutes.\n2. Nitric acid, sp. gr. 1*45 2 fl. oz.\nSulphuric acid, sp. gr. 1*845 3 fl. oz.\nWhite blotting paper 145 grn.\nTemperature 100° F.\nTime of immersion, thirty minutes.\nCollodio-Bromide Emulsion.—\nEther, sp. gr. 0*720 5 fl. oz.\nAlcohol, sp. gr. 0*820 3 fl.oz.\nPyroxyline 50 grn.\nBromide of cadmium and am-\nmonium 80 grn.\nor Bromide of zinc 76 grn.\nSensitize by adding to each oz. 15 grn. of ni-\ntrate of silver, dissolved in a few drops of\nwater and 1 drm. of boiling alcohol. This is\nsuitable for slow landscape work or for trans-\nparencies.\n1. Washed Emulsion (for Landscapes)-\nEther, sp. gr. 0*720 4 fl. oz.\nAlcohol, sp. gr. 0*820 2% fl.oz.\nPyroxyline 40 grn.\nCastile soap (dissolved in al-\ncohol) 30 grn.\nBromide of ammonium and\ncadmium 84 grn.\nSensitize with 100 grn. nitrate of silver\ndissolved in 1 oz. boiling alcohol and after\nstanding ten days, add a further 20 grn. silver\ndissolved as before in 2 drm. alcohol.\n2. Rapid.—\nEther, sp. gr. 0*720 4 fl. oz.\nAlcohol, sp. gr. 0*820 2^ fl. oz.\nPyroxyline 40 gnr.\nCastile soap 30 grn.\nBromide of ammonium and\ncadmium 56 grn.\nThe Wet Collodion Process.— Iodized Collodion\n(for Negatives).—\nEther, sp, gr., 0*725 10 fl. oz.\nAlcohol, sp. gr., 0*805 8 fl. oz.\nPyroxyline 120 grn.\nIodide of ammonium 12 grn.\nIodide of cadmium 20 grn.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0417.jp2"},"414":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n403\nPhotography.\nBro mo- Iodized Collodion (for Negatives).—\nEther, sp. gr.. 0 725 10 fl. oz,\nAlcohol, sp. gr., 0-805 10 fl. oz.\nPyroxyline 120 gra.\nIodide of ammonium 40 grn.\nIodide of cad mium 40 grn.\nBromide of cadmium 20 grn.\nBromo-Iodized Collodion (for Positives or\nFerrotypes).—\nEther, sp. gr., 0725 10 fl. oz.\nAlcohol, sp. gr., 0*805 10 fl. oz.\nPyroxyline 100 grn.\nIodide of cadmium 50 grn.\nBromide of ammonium 20 grn.\nThe Nitrate Bath (for Negatives).—\nNitrate of silver (recrystallized). 6 oz.\nDistilled water 80 fl. oz.\nNitric acid (pure) 10 min.\nSaturate with iodide of silver and filter.\nFor Positives or Ferrytypes.\nNitrate of silver (recrystallized). 5 oz.\nDistilled water 80 fl. oz.\nNitric acid (pure) 12 min.\nSaturate with iodide of silver and filter.\nDeveloper.— For Negatives.—\n1. Protosulphate of iron J4 oz.\nGlacial acetic acid J4 oz.\nAlcohol oz.\nWater 8 oz.\n2. Protosulphate of iron 15 grn.\nAcetate of soda 15 grn.\nGlacial acetic acid 30 min.\nAlcohol 30 min.\nWater 1 oz.\n3. Protosulphate of iron 1 oz.\nGlacial acetic acid 1 oz.\nCitric acid y% drm.\nWater 1 pt.\n4. Ammonio-sulphate of iron 15 grn.\nGlacial acetic acid 75 grn.\nSulphate of copper 7 grn.\nWater 3 oz.\n5. Protosulphate of iron 7 drm.\nWater 20 oz.\nCollocine 2 sm. drp.\nAlcohol q. s.\nThis developer can also be used for glass pos-\nitives and ferrotypes.\nFor Collodion Positives or Ferrotypes.—\nProtosulphate of iron 1)4 o z\nNitrate of baryta 1 oz.\nWater 1 pt.\nAlcohol 1 oz.\nNitric acid 40 drp.\nFor Collodion Transfers.—\nPyrogallic acid 5 grn.\nCitric acid 3 grn.\nAcetic acid 45 min.\nWater 1 oz.\nAlcohol q. s.\nIntensifying Solution.—\nA.\nPyrogallic acid 3 grn.\nWater 1 oz.\nB.\nNitrate of silver 10 grn.\nCitric acid 20 grn.\nAcetic acid 1 drm.\nWater 1 oz.\nFor use, mix in a few drops of B with enough\nof A to cover the surface of the plate.\nCurling, to Prevent Prints from.—l. Try a\nvery little glycerine in the toning and fixing\nbaths.\n2. A more correct heading of this receipt\nwould perhaps be to flatten prints after they are\ncurled. Lay the photograph face down upon\na pad composed of several sheets of paper and\nplace upon it at the left-hand margin a straight\nand rather sharp edge of a smooth ivory or box-\nwood rule. Move the rule slowly to the right,\nand with the left hand raise up the margin of\nthe print nearest to that hand, pulling up\nrather strongly, yet so as not to allow the print\nto drag over the pad upon which it is laid. This\nwill flatten the print and remove any further\ntendency to curl.\n3. Immerse the finished prints in the follow-\ning solution for a few minutes\nWater 1 parts.\nAlcohol 4 parts.\nGlycerine 3 part.\n4. Gelatine Paper Prints, to Prevent the\nCurling of.— After the print has been fixed\nand washed, it is immersed for a few min-\nutes in a 5% solution of glycerine and water,,\nthen removed, and directly squeegeed on a\nsheet of smooth hard rubber, then left to dry.\nWhen pulled off, it will lie as flat as a sheet of\nglass.\nDaguerreotypes, to Restore.— Daguerreotypes\ndo not fade, but become stained if much ex-\nposed to air and dampness, and need clean-\ning. To clean daguerreotypes according to\nP. C. Duchochois, take hold of the da-\nguerreotype with pinchers by one corner, and,\nkeeping the plate level, cover it with a solu-\ntion of potassium cyanide (1 part to 25 of\nwater), and if the picture be much stained,\nheat it moderately with an alcohol lamp for\nfifteen or twenty seconds, when the solution\nis thrown off and the plate rinsed. This done*\nflow the plate with clear water, heat it as be-\nfore, and holding it then almost vertically,\ndry it; in commencing, heat it at one of the\nupper corners and dry the water by blowing\nupon it toward the opposite corner. The whole\noperation should be quickly done, and the\nplate not too strongly heated, especially when\ncovered with cyanide otherwise the image\nmight be obliterated. The daguerreotypes\nmay be dusted with a fine camel s hair\nbrush, but not touched with the fingers\nnor rubbed with any hard material.\nThey are very easily scratched.\nTo Clean a Tarnished Daguerreotype.— Wash\nthe plate gently, pour on carefully a 3% solution\nof cyanide of potassium. Keep the plate in\nmotion. Keep the solution only a short time\non the plate, pour off, and wash well. If the\ntarnish remains, pour on more solution, repeat\nuntil the plate is clean. Wash with distilled\nwater, and dry over a flame. Blow on the\nplate constantly, so that the water may be\ndriven off evenly.\nNegatives, Density of, Reducing.— Solution for\nReducing Over Density.— 1.\nA.\nHyposulphite of soda 2 oz.\nWater 1 pt.\nB.\nFerrocyanide of potassium 2 drm.\nWater 5 oz.\nMix Yz oz. of B with 5 oz. of A just before use.\n2. According to the Beacon, the following\nformula of L. Belizki is said to possess severa-\nadvantages over Farmer s well known potas-\nsium ferricyanide and hypo. It must be\nmixed in the order given.\nWater 200 parts.\nPotassium ferric oxalate 10 parts.\nSodium sulphite (neutral) 8 parts.\nOxalic acid 3 parts.\nSodium hyposulphite 50 parts.\nIt will retain its working strength if kept in\nthe dark, and may be used over and over so-\nlong as it has a green color.\n3. Red prussiate of potash 30 grm.\nWater 500 c. c.\nHypo. Solution.—\nHypo 30 grn.\nWater 500 c.c.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0418.jp2"},"415":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n403\nPhotography.\n4. In cases of error in development the nega-\ntive is too intense. The high lights may be safely\nreduced by the method of Mr. Howard Farmer,\nviz. Ferricyanide of potassium (red prussiate\nof potash) 1 oz.; water, 16 oz.; hyposulphite of\nsoda, 1 oz.; water, 16 oz.; immerse the negative\nin sufficient hypo solution to cover it, to which\nhave been added a tew drops to each ounce of\nthe above ferricyanide solution; the speed of\nreduction depends on the quantity of ferricy-\nanide present. When sufficiently reduced,\nwash thoroughly. To reduce loeallj r apply the\nmixed solution to the wet negative with a\ncamel s hair brush to the parts requiring re-\nducing.\n5. There are three principal methods of re-\nducing density:\na. The image may be changed in color, so as\nto be more transparent to actinic light, h. It\ncan be partly converted into some compound,\nwhich can be dissolved out in hypo, or other\nsolvent, c. The gelatine film can be reduced\nin thickness by solution or mechanical means.\nMr. W. E. Debenham s Method with Ozone\nBleach.— Two solutions are required.—\nNo. 1.\nChrome alum 1 oz.\nWater 1 pt.\nNo. 2.\nThe plate is immersed in a solution composed\nof }4 oz. of each of these in 5 oz. of water, and\nthen in the hypo. bath. To reduce locally a\nstronger solution is poured in a stream on the\npart desired, the operation being repeated, if\nnecessary.\n6. Method with Chloride of Lime or with Eau\nde Javelle (hypochlorite of potash).— For the\nfirst a saturated solution of chloride of lime is\nprepared, and for the second.—\nChloride of lime. 2 oz.\nCarbonate of potash 4 oz.\nWater 40 oz.\nThe lime is mixed with 30 oz. of the water, and\nthe carbonate dissolved in the other 10 oz. The\nsolutions are mixed, boiled and filtered. Either\nof these are diluted and the plate immersed\nuntil the required reduction is produced; it is\nthen passed through the fixing bath and\nwashed. In these cases a double action occurs,\npart of film being dissolved off and a portion\nof the silver being converted into chloride,\nwhich is removed in the fixing bath.\n7. Method with Ferric Chloride.— A solution\nis prepared with—\nFerric chloride 1 drm.\nWater 4 oz.\nThe plate is immersed in this, which converts\nthe silver into silver chloride, and on washing\nand immersing in the hypo, bath this is dis-\nsolved out.\n8. Other Methods.— There are various other\nmethods extant for reducing density. One or\ntwo, requiring only a single solution, have been\nfound to answer very well.\nNo. 1.\nCopper sulphate y z oz.\nAmmonia, sufficient.\nWater 1 pt.\nThe quantity of ammonia is such as to redis-\nsolve the precipitate first formed on adding it\nto the copper sulphate.\nNo. 2.\nPotassium ferricyanide (red prussi-\nate of potash) 1 oz.\nWater 1 pt.\nA few drops of ether should be added to 1 oz.\nof the hypo, bath diluted with 4 oz. of water,\nand the plate immersed until the requisite re-\nduction is obtained and washed. In the first\ncase silver sulphate, and in the second silver\nferrocyanide, are formed, and immediately\ndissolved out by the hypo.— Br. Jour, of Photo.\n9. (Seed).— Saturated solution chloride of lime,\n2 fl. oz.; water, 8 fl. oz. This solution should be\npoured over the negative in a tray. Soak for\ntwo or three minutes. Rub gently with the\nfinger, the spot to be reduced, until the desired\nintensity is obtained. Wash five minutes and\ndry.\n10. The Hypochlorite Method.— It is often ad-\nvisable to harden the film by immersion for\nsome minutes in a solution made by dissolving\n80 to 100 grn. of chrome alum in a pt. of water,\nafter which it is immersed in the following hy-\nposulphite of potash solution until nearly suf-\nficient reduction is effected. Finally immerse\nin the hyposulphite fixing bath, and thorough-\nly wash.\n11. The Hyposulphite of Potash Solution.—\nAgitate 3 oz. of good chloride of lime (bleach-\ning powder) with 30 oz. of water, then add 5\noz. of carbonate of potassium dissolved in 10\noz. of water; agitate well, and filter through\ncalico.\nReducing Over Printed Proofs (Salomon s).—\nImmerse for a short time in the following solu-\ntion Cyanide of potassium, 10 grn.; liquid am-\nmonia, 10 drops; water, 1 qt. Watch the\nprints carefully, and wash well.\nDevelopers. The following large collection\nof developers comprises all that are of any\nvalue, and the very latest formulas are pub-\nlished. The eikonogen developer is perhaps\nthe best, and the developers using eikonogen\nand hydrochinon are also recommended.\nCatechol.— Catechol (pyrocatechin) gives clear\ngood printing negatives with less density and no\ngreater detail for a given exposure than pyro or\nquinol, but has the advantage that it works well\nin dilute solutions. The following formula is\ngiven: (A.) Caustic potash, 10 parts; water,\n1,000 parts. (D.) Catechol, 2 parts; sodium sul-\nphite, 10 parts; water, 100 parts. Mix 5 parts\nof both with 100 parts of water, and, if neces-\nsary, add potassium bromide. The two solu-\ntions may be kept ready mixed.— L. Backe-\nlandt, A. Phot. B., xxi., 77-79.\nEikonogen.— The eikonogen developer allows\nof much shorter exposure than with pyro, does\nnot deteriorate, and is not poisonous, and gives\na fine deposit on the negative. The solutions\ncan be used until exhausted, and over expos-\nure can be remedied by its use. Eikonogen is\nfrequently contracted to eiko, aspyro, hydro,\netc.\nNo. 1.\nDistilled water 20 oz.\nSulphite of soda crystals 2 oz.\nEikonogen crystals J^ oz. avd.\nNo. 2.\nDistillod water 20 oz.\nCarbonate of potash oz.\nMix Nos. 1 and 2 in equal parts, and to each\nounce add 2 to 4 drops 10$ solution bromide of\nsodium. A few drops of a 10$ solution caustic\nsoda will give additional energy for instanta-\nneous exposures. The after treatment is same\nas with any other developer.\nAlthough the above developer will keep if\nmade up in one solution, we recommend mak-\ning up stock in separate solutions, and mixing\nas wanted. Ihe mixed developer can be kept\nin separate bottles for future use.\nA mixture of equal parts eikonogen and\nhydrochinon developer yields lantern slides\nof great beauty, and we strongly recommend it\nalso for negatives.\n2. Eikonogen Developer for Short Exposures.\n—Distilled water, 100 parts; sulphate of soda,\n40 parts. Dissolve and add crystallized eikono-\ngen, 10 parts; caustic potash, 10 parts. For use\ndilute with three to ten times its value of\nwater.\n3. An eikonogen developer, said to be very\nsimple, and to work good for lantern slide\nplates, is advised by T. A. Sinclair.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0419.jp2"},"416":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n404\nPhotography.\nNo. 1.\nEikonogen J^oz.\nSulphite soda 2 oz.\nWater 20 oz.\nNo. 2.\nWashing soda 2 oz.\nCarbonate of potash 2 oz.\nWater.... 20 oz.\nTake one ounce of No. 1, half an ounce of\nNo. 2, and add half an ounce of water. This\nwill develop eight or ten plates in succession.\n4. Eikonogen and Soda Developer.—\nA.\nSodium sulphite (crystals C. P.). 4 oz.\nDistilled water 60 oz.\nEikonogen 2 oz.\nB.\nSodium carbonate (crystals) 3 oz.\nDistilled water 20 oz.\nDissolved in order named. A developer is\nmade by adding to 3 oz. of A 1 oz. of B.\nSingle Solution, Eikonogen and Soda De-\nveloper.—\nSodium sulphite (crystals C. P.) 4 oz.\nSodium carbonate 3 oz.\nDistilled water 80 oz.\nEikonogen 1 oz.\nDissolve in the order named. Add a few\ndrops of the hypo, solution during development.\nAll of the formulas are based on 437^ grn. to\nthe oz.\nThe usual alum and fixing baths may be em-\nployed.\n5. With any developer that may be devised it\nis impossible to produce an image if the light\nhas had no effect on the sensitive film, as is the\ncase when a plate is described as being rather\nunder exposed. Generally such exposures only\ndevelop on the surface, as the light has not had\ntime to affect the underlying particles of sil-\nver. We advise the use of the eikonogen and\npotash developer. If this tails to produce an\neffect, no other developer is likely to. Make the\neikonogen as follows\nNo.l.\nWarm water 40 oz.\nSulphite sodium 2 oz.\nEikinogen 1 oz.\nNo. 2.\nWater .3 oz.\nCarbonate of potash 1 oz.\nTake 2 oz. of No. 1, and add from 1 to 2 drm.\nof No. 2, or 3 drm. if necessary, to bring out the\ndetails; allow from half to three-quarters of an\nhour s time tor the development of one plate,\nshould it be greatly under exposed, and see\nthat the temperature of the solutions is 70°\nFah. Density is only obtained by a strong\neikonogen solution and length of time of de-\nvelopment.\n6. The developing and fixing baths must be\nkept separate. An energetic developer is made\nby dissolving in warm\nWater 40 oz.\nSulphite sodium, c. p 2 oz.\nEikonogen 1 oz.\nTo 2 oz. of the above add 1 drm. of following\nsolution\nWater 3 oz.\nCarbonate of potash 1 oz.\nBegin by soaking the plate in the first solu-\ntion a few minutes; then, should the plate re-\nfuse to develop, add the second. A fixing bath\nis made by dissolving 1 oz. of hyposulphite of\nsoda in 6 oz. of water.\n7. Himly s Eikonogen Developer.— Captain\nHimly recommends the following\nWater 1,000 parts.\nGlycerine 100 parts.\nMeta bisulphite of potassium 2 parts.\nBisulphite of sodium 75 parts.\nEikonogen 12 parts.\nCarbonate of potassium 60 parts.\nYellow prussiate of potas-\nsium 40 parts.\n8. Hubert s Eikonogen Developer.—\nRain water 300 pai ts.\nSulphite of soda 50 parts.\nEikonogen 10 parts.\nThe water should be warm and the salts dis-\nsolved in the order given in the formula then\nadd—\nCarbonate of soda 30 parts.\nFor extremely rapid exposures the undiluted\ndeveloper is to be used. For shutter exposures\nof medium rapidity a sufficient quantity of the\ndeveloper is diluted with half its bulk of water.\nFor time exposures take equal parts of develo-\nper and water.— Le Progres Photographique.\no\nbo\no\na\no\nM\nH\nOZ.\n9. Formula of manufacturers of eikonogen, 1\n10. Seed Dry Plate Co 1\n11. Cramer Dry Plate. Works 1\n12.- Eagle Dry Plate Works,for time exposures 1\n13. Eagle Dry Plate Works, instantaneous\nexposures 1\n14. Harvard Dry Plate Works 1\nfor instantaneous\nAllen Rowell Co.\n16. Allen Rowell Co.\nexposures 1\n17. Alien Rowell Co., for bromide paper 1\n18. Allen Rowell Co., for lantern elides. 1\n19. Allen Rowell Co., average for plates,\nbromide paper, and lantern slides 1 3 1-9 2^$\nft\na\nco\n•a\no\nco\noz.\n2\n6\n2%\n2\n2\n2\n4\n4\n3\n5\na o\n■S 3\nn\n■2 °S\nCO d\nCO r-j\no3 .2\nO\nce\noz. oz.\n15-16\no\nOh\nOZ.\n1-16\nCO\np 3\nOZ. OZ.\n45\n60\n53\n128\n30\n80\n80\n40\n128\n128\n74^\nCD\nrl\na\no\no\nu\nu\nCD\nft\na\na\no\nft\nOZ.\na\noT-3\nj=i o\na o\nCO\n.a\nw.\n17 1-5\n43 2-3\n22\n7\n29\n11\n22\n43 7-10\niom\nX 17\nCD 3\n■a—\na qq\nlo\n03\nSo\na -a\nso\no3 q a\nO CJ3-P\nft\n9 1-7\n10M\nli\n20 31-56\n11\n11\n22\n6 53-64\n3^","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0420.jp2"},"417":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n405\nPhotography.\n20. Development with Separate Solutions.—\nA. Sulphite of soda, V/% oz., 30 grn.; eikonogen,\n180 grn.; water, 26^ oz. B. Carbonate of soda,\n1 oz., 1 drm., 40 grn.; water, 8 oz., 6 drm., 50\nmin.\nNote.— Dissolve the sulphite of soda in the\nwater, and then add the eikonogen. For use\nemploy three parts of No. 1 and 1 part of No. 2.\nN. B.— Be sure the sulphite is dissolved before\nadding the eikonogen.\n21. Development with Single Solution.— Sul-\nphite of soda, oz., 30 grn.; carbonate of soda,\n1 oz., 1 drm., 40 grn.; eikonogen, 180 grn.;\nwater, 35 oz., 1}4 drm.\nNote.— Dissolve the sodas in the water, and\nafterward add the eikonogen. This solution\nis used direct for developing without the addi-\ntion of water. The sulphite of soda must be\npure and fresh.\n22. For very short instantaneous exposures\n(tsW of a second), and for increasing the pow-\ner of the developers Nos. 20 and 21, in cases\nwhere the plate has not been sufficiently ex-\nposed.—\nSulphite soda 5 parts.\nCarbonate of potassium 2 parts.\nEikonogen 1 part.\nWater 30 parts.\nallowed to cool and preserved in a tightly closed\nstoppered bottle. To prepare this developer,\nplace the chemicals in an earthenware jar, and\nadd the water; stand the jar in a saucepan of\nboning water, and bring about dissolution by\nboiling and stirring.\nPreliminary Bath for No. 22.\nHyposulphite soda 15 grn.\nChloride of mercury solution (1\nin 100) .15 min.\nWater 55 oz.\nPlace the plate in this bath for one minute,\nand develop without rinsing.\n23. Messrs. Fradelle and Young s Formula for\nPortraiture.— A. For normal exposures in the\nstudio: Sulphite of soda, 4 oz.; eikonogen, 1\noz.; distilled water, hot, 100 oz. B. Carbonate\nof soda, 1 oz.; distilled water, 100 oz.\nNotes.— For normal exposures take equal\nquantities of each, but varied at discretion.\nFor instantaneous work and certain effects of\nlighting, the face, use a stronger solution by\nreducing the water to 50 oz. in both A and B.\nSolutions of bromide of potassium and carbon-\nate of soda, 1 in 10, may be kept in reserve for\ncorrecting over and under exposure. These\nare called 10^ solutions.\n24. Dr. Mitchell s (Photo Soc. of Philadelphia)\nFormula. For lantern slides and transpar-\nencies.\nA. Sulphite of soda, 1 oz.; eikonogen, oz.;\nwater, 1 pt. B. Carbonate of soda, oz.;\nwater, 1 pt. (N. B. The American pint is\n16 oz.)\nIs otes. For normal exposure take equal\nparts of A and B and add 2 parts water. For\nwarm tones use half of No. 2 only and give a\nlonger exposure.\n25. Formula by Dr. H. G. Piffard (New York\nCamera Club).— With ammonia addition.—\nSulphite of soda, 2 oz. avoirdupois; eikono-\ngen, 1 oz. avoirdupois; bromide of potassium, 8\ngrn.; boiling distilled water, 1 qt.\nNotes.— Dr. Andresen forbids ammonia with\neikonogen; but Dr. Piffard says it can be used\nas the alkali, and works beautifully time\nalone will show. Dr. Piffard s directions ai*e—\nTo 1 oz. of above solution add from 1 to 2\ndrops of liquid ammonia; but this shouid be\nused only in cases of decidedly under exposure.\n1 to 1]4 drops will do for a properly exposed\nplate. Instead of ammonia, add, if preferred,\nfrom \\i to 1 drm. of an 8% solution of carbon-\nate of potassium, which gives more density\nthan ammonia.\n26. Warnerke s Formula.— For Copying Line\nDrawings and Engravings.—\nSulphite of soda 40 parts.\nEikonogen 20 parts.\nCaustic potassium 20 parts.\nDistilled boiling water 100 parts.\nUse 1 part of developer to 3 of water. Restrain\nwith bromide if necessary. Dissolve the sul-\nphite, then the eikonogen, and lastly the al-\nkali. Filter while still hot, and store away for\nuse. This developer has been used by M. Marey,\nin Paris, who is working on physiological sub-\njects requiring extreme rapidity of exposure.\nHe had previously been using hydrokinone,\nbut he found a marked increase in the amount\nof detail obtained when using eikonogen in-\nstead.\n27. Formula by Herr Eugen Von Gothard,\nHerenz Observatory. For Stellar Photogra-\nraphy.—\nA. Sulphite of soda, 200 grm.; eikonogen, 50\ngrm.; water, 3 liters. B. Carbonate of soda, 150\ngrm.; water, 1 liter.\nFor use.— Take 3 parts solution A and 1 part\nsolution B.\n28. Combined Hydrokinone and Eikonogen\nDeveloper.—\nSulphite of soda .300 gr.\nCarbonate of soda 200 gr.\nHydrate of soda 30 gr.\nBromide of soda 5 gr.\nHydrokinone 20 gr.\nEikonogen 30 gr.\nWater 10 oz.\nThis developer possesses the rapid action of\nthe eikonogen combined with the sustaining\nenergy of the hydrokinone, and keeps indefi-\nnitely. This is the latest phase of a single solu-\ntion developer, presumably for instantaneous\nsubjects, but I have not yet tried its powers.\n29. Dr. Andresen s Fixing Bath. Plates\nwhich have been developed with eikonogen\nshould be well washed, and will greatly benefit\nby being fixed in the following bath\nHyposulphite of soda 4 parts.\nBisulphite of soda 1 part.\nWater 20 parts.\nThe advantages of fixing in this bath are\nthat-\nch The negatives have a perfect tone, which\nenables very fast printing,\nb. This new fixing bath remains, even after\nfrequent usage, clear and water white.\n30. Eikonogen, 10; potassium caustic, 10;\nsodium sulphite, 20; water, 100; dilute with 3 to\n10 vols, water, according to result required,\nadding potassium bromide in case of over ex-\nposure.— Warnerke, Phot J., xiv., 57.\n31. (D.) Eikonogen, 25; sodium sulphite, 50;\nwater, 1,000. (A.) Potassium carbonate, 100;\nwater, 100. (R.) Potassium bromide, 10; water,\n100. Mix (D) 3 parts, (A) 1 part, and add small\nquantity (R) if developer is new.— Cramer, Phot.\nT., xx., 208-210.\n32. (D.) Eikonogen, 1; sodium sulphite, 2;\nwater, to 32. (A.) Potassium carbonate, 1;\nsodium sulphite, 0 5; water to 64. Mix in equal\nvolumes.— C. A. Dundore, Phot. T., xx., 233,\n234.\n33. (D.) Eikonogen, 25; sodium sulphite, 50; sod-\nium carbonate crystal, 50; potassium bromide,\n05; water, 1,000— C. Jones, B. J, Phot, .J., 1891,\n560,561.\n34. (A.) Potassium carbonate,9; sodium carbon-\nate, 18; sodium sulphite, 120; water, 950. Dilute\n1C0 parts with an equal volume of water, and\nadd eikonogen, 5 parts.— Phot, A., xxxi., 35, 36,\nfrom Amer.A. Phot.\n35. Eikonogen, 50; sodium sulphite, 250; boiled\ndistilled water, 400. (A.) Potassium carbonate,\n1; sodium carbonate cryst., 1; boiled distilled\nwater, 10. To 100 parts (D) add 4 parts (A), or\nmore as required.— A. Phot. B., xxi., 69.\n36. (D.) Eikonogen, 1 oz.; sodium sulphite, 2\noz.; water, 40 oz.; potassium bromide, 8 grn.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0421.jp2"},"418":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n406\nPhotography.\nTo 1 fl. oz. add not more than 2 drops strong-\nammonia solution; to get density add 30 to 60\ndrops of a solution of potassium carbonate (1*8).\nH. Piifard.\n37. (D.) Eikonogen, 5 to 6; sodium sulphite,\n25; water, 500. When dissolved add 20 parts of\na mixture of 500 parts of a saturated solution\nof sodium sulphite with 40 parts hydrochloric\nacid. (A.) Sodium carbonate, 20; potassium\ncarbonate, 5; water, 500. Mix 3 parts (A) with\n1 10 parts (D).-T. H.Voight, Phot. A., xxxi., 144.\nh 38. Eikonogen Developer for Bromide Paper,\nby M. V. Portman.— The following is the pro-\ncess I advise for Eastman s bromide paper.\n(Workers may, of course, try the ferrous oxa-\nlate developer recommended in the instruction\nwith this paper, but I admit that after a con-\nsiderable experience with it, I have a strong\nobjection to it.)\nDeveloper A.—\nEikonogen 2 drm.\nSulphite of soda 4 drm.\nWater 8 oz.\nTo be mixed according to the instructions\nsent with the eikonogen.\nDeveloper B.—\nCarbonate of soda 4 drm.\nWater 1^ oz.\nMix just before use. This amount will de-\nvelop a 15 xl2 print. Use fresh developer for\neach print, and take care, by experiment, that\nyour exposure is correct. Always do your\ncontact printing by a standard artificial light.\nAfter development and washing in water\n(not under a tap), place the print in a fixing\nbath of—\nHyposulphite of soda 10 oz.\nSulphite of soda 2 oz.\nWater 45 oz.\nSulphuric acid 110 min.\nLeave the print in this bath for half an hour;\nthen wash, not under tap, but in a print\nwasher (I always use the Godstone print\nwasher, which answers very well) for half an\nhour. Then immerse the print for one minute\nin a tanning bath.\nSulphite of soda 2^ drm.\nWater 7}i oz.\nDissolve and add—\nTannin 15 grn.\nHydrochloric acid 1^ drm.\nWash in a Godstone washer for three hours.\nIf after washing the print is muddy in the high\nlights, immerse it for a short time (sufficient to\nclear it only) in\nCyanide of potassium y% oz.\nWater 40 oz.\nIodine 1 grn.\nThen wash it again thoroughly.\nFormaldehyde.— Formaldehyde, which, with\nsome of its compounds, has been recommended\nas a constituent of developers, has been further\ninvestigated by W. Eschweiler and G. Gross-\nman (Annalen. cclviii., 95-110). Formaldehyde\nsodium bisulphite (sodium oxymethyj sulpho-\ny nate) is obtained by mixing a strong solution\nf of sodium bisulphite with crude formaldehyde,\nand adding ethyl alcohol. It forms trans-\nparent crystals, easily soluble in water\nor in methyl alcohol, but only slightly\nsoluble in ethyl alcohol. The crystals have\nthe composition CH 2 0,NaHS0 3 ,H 2 0, but ef-\nfloresce and lose water slowly when exposed to\ndry air. The salt can also be obtained in long,\nneedle shaped crystals containing only half as\nmuch water (CH 2 0,NaHSO 2 ,H 2 0. Formalde-\nhyde-potassium bisulphite is obtained in a sim-\nilar manner, and forms large tabular crystals,\nwhich contain no water of crystallization, and\nhave the composition CH 2 0,KHSO s\nFormaldehyde sodium bisulphite, when add-\ned to a pyrogallol developer produces variable\neffects, though in some cases greater detail is\nobtained with less fog. When used in dilute\nsolution (1 1000 or 1 2000) as a preliminary\nbath before ferrous oxalate development, it\nreduces the time of development, and gives\nstronger images, with more detail. The plate\nshould be washed, after immersion in the bath,\nbefore being placed in the ferrous oxalate, or\nfog may result.— Eder, Phot. C, xxvii., 105-107.\nP. Richter (Phot. Mitt., xxvi., 352) was unable\nto recognize any advantages arising from the\naddition of formaldehyde sodium bisulphite to\nthe developer.\nHydrochinon Developers. These are excellent\ndevelopers and are excelled only by the eikono-\ngen developer. The word is spelled hydrochi-\nnon, hydrochinone, hydrokinone, hydroquin-\none, quinol, hydro, etc.\n1. Water 10 oz.\nSulphite sodium crystals chemi-\ncal, pure 2 oz.\nHydrochinon 1 oz.\nDissolve in the order named, using, if possi-\nble, distilled water. This solution should be\nkept in a yellow bottle or in a dark place. It\nwill retain its strength for a year or more.\n2. Water. 10 oz.\nCarbonate of potash 2 oz.\nCarbonate of soda 1 oz.\nThe weights are based on 437 grn. to the oz.\nPut in the graduate 2 drm. of No. 1 and V/%, drm.\nof No. 2, then fill up to 3 oz. with water. If the\ndeveloper Avorks too slowly, add 1 drm. addi-\ntional of No. 2. This will develop several\nplates in succession. When through, pour the\ndeveloper into a separate bottle, filtering it\nthrough cotton, and preserve for use on future\nplates, adding a little fresh developer to it.\nMake up the following stock solutions: 1.\nHydroquinone 8 grn.; distilled water, 8 drm.\nThis must be kept well corked and in a cool,\ndark place. 2. Carbonate of potash (dry), 12\ndrm.; distilled water, 3 oz. When quite dis-\nsolved filter carefully. This will keep any time.\n3. Tartaric acid, 1 drm; distilled water, 30 drm;\nmythylated spirit (pure), 2 drm. This will keep\nif well corked. This No. 3 solution is 4 oz. in all,\nwater, acid, and spirit together. To develop a\nquarter plate, take of these stock solutions\nHydroquinone, 30 minims; add water to make\nup to 1 oz.; carbonate of potash solution, 2\ndrm.; water, 6 drm. This makes 2 oz. developer\nwhen mixed and should then be poured over\nthe plate, while in the developing dish. Keep\nthe solution moving. The image should ap-\npear in from 20 to 30 seconds, and when the de-\ntail appears in the shadows add tartaric acid\nsolution, 30 minims. Put this in the develop-\ning cup, and pour the developer from the plate\ninto the cup, and return the solution to the\ndish.\n3. Carbonate of soda 4^ oz.\nSulphite of soda 2\\i oz.\nHydrochinon 150 grn.\nWater.... 36 oz.\nWhen freshly prepared the bath is too strong\nand should have a third of water added to it;\nafterward each time of using a certain quan-\ntity of new solution should be added. The so-\nlution is not filtered; the clear part is de-\ncanted off.\n4. Citric acid 5 grn.\nBromide of potassium., 10 grn.\nHydrochinon 60 grn.\nSulphite of soda 120 grn.\nWater 10 oz.\nGrind the hydrochinon in a mortar with warm\nwatei-, then add the rest and pass it on to the boy\nto be shaken till thoroughly dissolved; either\nfilter or allow to stand till clear. The alkali to\nbe either caustic soda (4 to 6 grn. per oz.) or\ncommon crystals of soda (40 or 50 grn. per oz.),\nor any chosen mixture of the two. Equal quan-\ntities of each for developing.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0422.jp2"},"419":{"fulltext":"Photograph y.\n407\nPhotography.\n5. Sulphite of soda\nBoiled water..\nA.\n2Y 2 oz.\n.16 oz.\nJB.\nlb.\n.20 oz.\nCrystal carbamate of soda\nWater (boiled)\nC.\nHydrochinon 1 drm.\nRectified 90% alcohol 23^ oz.\nTake half oz. each of A and B, and add drm.\nof C.\nIf overexposure occurs, add to this quantity,\nsay, 2 or 3 drops of\nBromide of ammonium 200 gr.\nWater 2 oz.\nFor Chloride Plates.—\n6. Hydrochinon 2 grn.\nSulphite of soda 10 grn.\nCarbonate of ammonia (or pot).. 10 grn.\nBromide of potassium i\\ grn.\nWater.\nHydrochinon 120 grn.\nSulphite of soda 1 oz.\nBromide of potassium 25 grn.\nWater 15 oz.\nB.\noz.\noz.\noz.\nDry powdered pure carbonate of\npotash 2\nDry powdered pure carbonate of\nsoda 2\nWater to make up to 20\nA and B are mixed in equal parts for devel-\nopment, and the picture is brought out in\nabout three minutes when ordinary bromide\nplates are used.\n8. Carbutt s Hydrochinon Developer.\nA.\nWarm distilled water 20\nSulphite soda crystals 4\nSulphuric acid 1\nHydrochinon 360\nBromide potassium 30\nWater to make up to 32\nB.\nCarbonate potash 1\nCaustic soda in stick y% oz.\nWater, to make 32 oz.\nC.\noz.\noz.\ndrm.\ngrn.\ngrn.\noz.\noz.\nAccelerator.\nCaustic soda.\nWater, to make.\nRestrainer.—\n1\n.10\noz.\noz.\nD.\nBromide potassium oz.\nWater 5 oz.\nTake of A 1 oz., B 1 oz., water 2 to 4 oz.— the\nfirst for instantaneous and short exposures on\neclipse and special plates, and the latter for\ntime exposures, portraits and views on our B\nlandscape and ortho. plates. For lantern\ntransparencies, 1 oz. A, 1 oz. B, water, 4 oz.; 15\nto 30 drops of a 10$ solution bromide potassi-\num. After using, filter into bottle for future\nuse, and for starting development on time ex-\nposed plates and films.\n9. Hydrochinon Developer. J. D. Cooper\ncommunicates to the British Journal of Pho-\ntography the following formula\nHydrokinone 6 grn.\nBromide potassium 1 grn.\nCitric acid. grn.\nSulphite sodium (crystals) 20 grn.\nWater 1 oz.\nThe sulphite and other ingredients are first\ndissolved, then the hydrokinone is added.\nAn alkali solution of carbonate of soda\n(crystals) is made, 40 grn. of soda to 1 cz. of\nwater.\nEqual quantities of the hydrokinone and\nsoda solutions make up the developer for\nnegatives.\nThe formula is somewhat strong for films\nrich in silver. If too much density is pro-\nduced, the right amount may be obtained by\ndilution, which will adapt the developer per-\nfectly for the production of opals or lantern\nslides.\n10. Hydrochinon Developer (Piffard).— Hydro-\nchinon (Merck s), 50 grn.; carbonate of potash,\n150 grn. sulphite of soda crystals, 200 grn.;\nwater, 10 full oz. Mix and filter. After using\nit may be returned to the bottle for future\nuse.\n11. Hydrochinon— For Lantern Slides.\nA.\nHydrochinon 10 grn.\nSulphite soda crystals, C. P 60 grnc\nWater 1 oz.\nB.\nCarbonate of potash, C.P 30 grn.\nWater J^oz.\nAdd B to A, and also enough water to\nmake the whole measure two fluid oz., and pour\nupon the plate.\nThe development starts rather slower than\nusuai, but when once commenced proceeds with\nremarkable uniformity.\n12. A developer for negatives is made up as\nfollows\nA.\nHydrochinon 15 grn.\nWater 1 oz.\nB.\nCarbonate of soda crystals, C. P., 30 grn.\nWater 1 oz.\nUse equal parts of each; and less of No. 2 in\ncase over exposure is feared. After use the\ndeveloper may be preserved until as high as\nforty plates have been developed.\n13. Hydrochinon Developer for Lantern\nSlides. At a general meeting of the North Mid-\ndlesex Photographic Club, Mr. Beadle read an\ninteresting paper on slide making, and recom-\nmended the following developer\nHydrochinon 160 grn.\nSodium sulphite 2 oz.\nNitric acid 60 grn.\nPotassium bromide 30 grn.\nWater, to make up to 20 oz.\nFor the second solution\nSodium hydrate 160 grn.\nWater... 20 oz.\nEqual parts of the two solutions form the de-\nveloper. For use, take equal parts of this solu-\ntion and water. The picture should come up\nquickly and perfect in details, with full density\nin the shadows.— A merican Journal of Photog-\nraphy.\n14. Combined Hydroquinone and Eikonogen\nDeveloper. In consideration of the fact that\neikonogen, per se, tends to give flat negatives,\nthough the energy of the developer is im-\npaired, and that hydroquinone, per se, acts\nrather slowly, giving, however, great density,\na combined hydroquinone and eikonogen de-\nveloper is used and strongly recommended by\na well-known amateur photographer. Its com-\nposition is the following\nNo.l.\nSulphite of soda cryst 60 grm.\nCryst. soda 40 grm.\nDistilled water 1,000 c. c.\nAfter solution, to be filtered; keeps any\ntime.\nNo. 2.\nEikonogen 50 grm.\nHydrochinon 50 grm.\nAre placed together in a porcelain mortar,\nrubbed down to fine powder, and then kept","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0423.jp2"},"420":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n408\nPhotography.\ndry for use in a well stoppered glass bottle.\nFor use, take 1 grm. of No. 2 and dissolve it in\n100 c. c. of No. 1. The solution keeps well for\nseveral weeks. This developer is said to possess\nall the advantages of the hydroquinone, iron\noxalate and pyro developers, without their dis-\nadvantages. The greatest advantage, however,\nconsists of the fact that the developer, if\nlarger quantities are to be prepared, is always\nready at hand, and that larger or smaller quan-\ntities may always be prepared without any de-\nlay.— If. E, Gunther, in Photo, News.\nNo. 1.\n15. Soda carbonate 60 grn.\nWater 1 oz.\nNo. 2.\nHydrochinon 2 grn.\nSoda sulphite 60 grn.\nWater 1 oz.\nFor use mix-\nNo. 1 1 oz.\nNo.2 2 oz.\nWater 1 oz.\nThe above is a modification of a formula\ngiven by C. E. Van Sothern, in which he ad-\nvises the use of 12 grn. hydrochinon to 1 oz.\nwater. It is usually advisable to employ a\nlarger quantity than I have stated when it is\nfound that the gelatine plate used gives a thin\nimage. For line work, negatives and transpar-\nencies, the developer may be used over and\nover again, and then be bottled for use as a\nstarter on another batch of plates. Each suc-\ncessive exposure should be longer when the\nold developer is used.\n16. Hydrochinon Developer for Bromide\nPrints.— Sodic sulphite, 3 oz.; water, 30 oz.; hy-\ndrochinon, 45 grains; sodic carbonate (pure\nbut not dried) 4^ oz.; potassic carbonate, 4^\noz.; potassic bromide, 60 grn. Divide the water\ninto two parts. Dissolve the sodic sulphite, hy-\ndrochinon and bromide in one part, and the\nother ingredients in the other part. Mix the\nsolutions in equal parts for use.\nParamidophenol Developer.— This new devel-\noper, introduced by Messrs. Lumiere, has now\nbeen tried also by our German authorities, and\ntheir judgments are, on the whole, favorable to\nthis reducing agent. Professor Vogel finds\nthat the pure paramidophenol is very insoluble,\nso that it was impossible to prepare with it the\nsolution recommended by Messrs Lumiere.\nDr. Schuchardt, of Gorlitz, has, however, suc-\nceeded in producing a hydrochloric preparation\nof this substance, which, in the hands of Prof.\nVogel, proved to be more soluble than the first\none,, though it is said to dissolve much less\nreadily in cold water than hydroquinone. It\nis, therefore, necessary to heat the water pre-\nviously. The developer thus obtained is very\nenergetic, giving, however, somewhat thin\nnegatives, and the mixed solution soon becomes\nbrown. If the paramidophenol solution and\nthe sodium sulphite solution are kept separate-\nly, they will keep clear. Also Profs. Eder and\nE. Valenta state that the paramidophenol forms\nan excellent developer, giving, according to its\ncomposition, every degree of softness or inten-\nsity. The color of the negatives is grayish\nblack, the film being free of every bluish or\ngreenish color, even if a neutral fixing bath is\nused. The authors recommend the use of a\ndilute solution for the reason that then the\nparamidophenol does not crystallize out of its\nsolution, and the developer becomes less expen-\nsive. Moreover, the diluted solutions form\nequally excellent developers as the concen-\ntrated ones. The formulae recommended by the\nauthors are the following\nParamidophenol Soda Developer.—\nWater 1,000 c. c.\nSodium sulphite 80 grm.\nCarbonate of soda 40 grm.\nParamidophenol 4 grm.\nParamidophenol Potash Developer.—\nWater 1,000 c. c.\nSodium sulphite 120 grm.\nCarbonate of potash 40 grm.\nParamidophenol 4 grm.\nThe latter is specially well suited for plates\nwhich tend to give thin negatives, while the\nsoda developer yields more delicate images.\nWith the latter, also, transparencies on gela-\ntino bromide emulsion may be developed very\nsuccessfully.— H. E. Gunther, in Photo. News.\nHydroxylamine Developer.— 1. Hydroxylamine\nhydrochlorate, 2 gr.; caustic soda, 3 gr.; potas-\nsium bromide, }4 gr«; water, to 1 oz., adding\ncitric acid, 1 grn. oi less, if the water used is\nhard, to prevent the precipitation of lime car-\nbonate (from the carbonate always present\nin caustic soda) upon the face of the negative.\nIf the citrio acid is necessary the bromide of\npotassium may be omitted, except in cases of\nover exposure. Hydroxylamine is stated to\nhave a considerable tendency to cause frilling\n(and therefore must be used dilute) and to be\nunsuitable for developing plates that have re-\nceived anything less than a full exposure.\n2. Hydroxylamine and Pyro. Developer.— In\na paper read before the Photographic Society\nof Philadelphia, reported in the American Jour-\nnal of Photography, by Dr. Charles L. Mitchell,,\nthe following formula is given\n1. Hydroxylamine chloride 30 grn.\nPyrogallol 240 grn.\nWater 16 oz.\n2. Sodium carbonate (crystals) U4 troy oz.\nSodium sulphite (crystals) 4 troy oz.\nWater 16 oz.\nTo develop, take of No. 1 from 1 to 2 11. oz.;\nNo. 2, y s fl. oz.; water, 4 oz.; flow over the plate,\nand if the image does not appear within thirty\nor forty seconds, add more of No. 2 solution in\nsmall portions at a time, until development\ncommences.\nI have developed a dozen lantern slides, using\nthe same developer for all, and alter the last\nplate was finished, the developer was but of a\nmoderately light orange color. The mixture\nof the pyro and the hydroxylamine chloride\nseems to possess remarkable keeping qualities.\nAs a general rule, pyro. mixtures should be\nstored in yellow or amber colored glass bottles,\nprovided with rubber corks, as the amber color\nprevents the actinic light from penetrating to\nthe contents of the bottle. The developer is\nvery superior for negatives, giving clear shad-\nows free from stain. Hydroxylamine, though\na somewhat new article in photography, can\nbe had from the largest dealers and manufac-\nturers in photographic materials.\nIron Developers.— 1. For Cold Tones-\nPotass citrate 136 gr.\nPotass oxalate 44 gr.\nHot distilled water 1 oz.\n2. For Warm Tones.—\nCitric acid 120 gr.\nAmmonia (carbonate) 88 gr.\nCold distilled water 1 oz.\n3. For Extra Warm Tones.—\nCitric acid 180 gr.\nAmmonia (carbonate) 60 gr.\nCold distilled water 1 oz.\nIn mixing the solutions Nos. 2 and 3, it is ad-\nvisable to place the crystals of the salts in a\ndeep vessel, and after adding the water to leave\nalone till all effervescence ceases. Make over-\nnight. To 3 parts of any of the above formulae\nadd 1 part of the following at the time of using\nSulphate of iron 140 gr.\nSulphuric acid 1 drop.\nDistilled water 1 oz.\nTo develop place the exposed plate in a porce-\nlain dish, flood over with sufficient of either of\nthe solutions just mentioned, and keep the\ndish rocking. The time required to complete","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0424.jp2"},"421":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n409\nPhotography.\ndevelopment will vary from one to ten min-\nutes, accoruing to the developer used and the\ndensity required. The first formula given is\nthe quickest and the last is the slowest devel-\noper.\nFerrous Citro-Oxalate Developer.\n1. Potassium citrate TOO grn.\nPotassium oxalate 200 grn.\nWater 3V6 oz.\n2. Ferrous sulphate 300 grn.\nWater 3% oz.\nMix in equal parts.\n3. For black and white tones, develop with\nferrous oxalate. The following is the for-\nmula\nOxalate Solution.—\nNeutral oxalate of potash 1 oz.\nBromide of potassium 2J^ grn.\nHot distilled water 5 oz.\nIron Solution.—\nPure proto-sulphate of iron 2 drm.\nHot distilled water 2 oz.\nTo develop, mix together 2 parts of oxalate\nsolution with 1 part of iron solution, and pour\nin 1 wave across the plate. Rock well during\ndevelopment, which it is advisable to continue\nas long as detail is visible in the high lights of\nthe picture. Rinse well after development,\nand previous to fixing. The fixing solution\nshould be of the strength of 1 oz. in 4 oz. of\nwater. The hyposulphite of soda solution\nshould not be mixed till required, as a trace of\nthis salt in the developing bath is ruinous.\n4. The following oxalate developer is said to\nkeep well, and was proposed by Mr. Archer\nClarke at a regular *meeting of the London and\nProvincial Photographic Association\nNo. 1.\nCitric acid 1 oz.\nCitrate of ammonium 1 oz.\nChloride of ammonium 1 drm.\nBromide of ammonium 1)4, drm.\nOxalate of potash 10 oz.\nWater 50 oz.\nNo. 2.\nProtosulphate of iron.. 3 oz. and 63 grn.\nCitric acid 1 oz.\nWater 50 oz.\nMix in equal proportions.\nPyro (Pyrogallic Acid) Developers.— 1. The fol-\nlowing formula, given by Captain Abney, in\nhis splendid treatise on photography (of the\ngreatest service to the expert), is an excellent\none, giving the very highest results, and is de-\nservedly popular. The solutions here given\nwill have to be made up and kept in tight fit-\nting stoppered bottles\n1. Pyro Solution.\nPyrogallic acid 50 grn.\nSodium sulphite 150 grn.\nCitric acid 10 grn.\nWater 1 oz.\n2. Bromide Solution.\nPotassium bromide 50 grn.\nWater 1 oz.\n3. Ammonia Solution.\nAmmonia (0*880) 2 drm.\nWater 2*4 oz.\nThese are not exactly 10 per cent, solutions,\nbut for all practical purposes may be regarded\nas such. Ten drops of No. 1 (pyro solution) will\ncontain 1 grn. of pyrogallic acid; 10 drops of No.\n2 (bromide solution) 1 minim of potassium\nbromide; 10 drops of No. 3 (ammonia solution)\n1 minim of pure ammonia.\n2. Beach s Potash Developer.— Pyro solution.\nWarm distilled water 4 fl. oz.\nSulphite of soda (pure) 4 oz.\nWhen cooled to 70° F., add—\nSulphurous acid (strong) 3V6 fl. oz.\nPyogallic acid 1 oz.\nNo. 2.— Potash Solution.—\na. Carbonate potash (chem. pure) 3 oz.\nWater 4 oz.\nb. Sulphite soda (chem. pure crys-\ntals) 2 oz.\nWater 4 oz.\nMix a and b separately, and then combine in\none solution.\n3. Carbutt s Pyro Developer.—\na. Pyro Stock Solution.\nDistilled or ice water 10 oz.\nSulphuric acid 1 dr.\nSulphite of soda, crystals 4 oz.\nThen add Schering s pyro, 1 oz., and water to\nmake 18 fl. oz.\nb. Stock Soda Solution.\nWater 10 oz.\nSoda sulphite crystals 2 oz.\nSoda carbonate crystals tor dry\ngran., 1 oz.) 2 oz.\nPotash carbonate 1 oz.\nDissolve, and add water to make measure 16\nfl. oz.\nc. Bromide Solution.\nBromide of sodium or potassium. oz.\nWater 5 oz.\nFor Developer.—\nDilute 1 oz. of stock b with 7 oz. of water for\ncold weather and 10 to 12 oz. of water in sum-\nmer. To 3 oz. of dilute b add V/% to 2^ drm.\nof a. The more pyro the denser the negative,\nand vice versa. No yellowing or fogging need\nbe apprehended if our directions are followed.\nDevelopment should be continued until the\nimage seems almost buried, then wash and\nclear.\n4. Cramer s Pyro Developer.— Prepare the\nfollowing solutions\na. Alkaline Solution.\nEngl. Meas. Metric Wghts.\nTroy Wyht. and Meas.\nWater 64 oz. 1,250 c. c.\nCarbonate of sodium crys-\ntals (sal soda) 2\\i oz. 50 grm.\nSulphite of sodium crys-\ntals 3 oz. 60 grm.\nThis will produce negatives of a warm tone.\nIf the sulphite is increased to 6 oz. the nega-\ntives will be of a gray or black tone. The alka-\nline solution must be kept in well stoppered\nbottles. If the negatives show yellow stain,\nmake a fresh solution and try another lot of\nsulphite crystals.\nb. Pyro Solution.\nDistilled or pure ice water 6 oz. 300 c.c.\nOxalic acid 10 grn. 1 grm.\nSulphite of sodium crys-\ntals 1 drm. 6 grm.\nPyrogallic acid 1 oz. 50 grm.\nAll pyro solutions work best while fresh.\nEight grains dry pyro may be substituted for 1\ndrm. of this solution.\nc. Bromide Solution.\nWater 10 oz. 300 c. c.\nBromide of potassium. 1 oz. 30 grm.\nFor Use.—\nAlkaline solution 8 oz. 250 c. c.\nPyro solution 2\\ drm. 10 c. c.\nWhen the developer is quite new the addition\nof—\nBromide solution 10 to 40 min. 1 to 3 c. c.\nis necessary to make it work perfectly clear.\nKeep the deveidper moderately warm in win-\nter, cool in summer.\nBromide solution produces intensity, con-\ntrast and clearness. It should be added when\ndeveloper is strong in alkali and new, also\nwhen developer is warm, when plates are over\nexposed, or when the plates develop without","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0425.jp2"},"422":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n41U\nL?liotog rapliy.\n(0\nO\na\no\nQ\n(0\no\nc\no\nO\no\nc\n5\no\no\n3\na\no\nO\nX\nCO\no\n3\ns\nI-\ns C qj\nPi C\\\nO N\n3\nc\n25 s\n1\nolubi\nWa\nprox\n1* S 1\nco g.\nM M\nrt\no\nco *o S\nW\nf 36 Pe\nic Acid\nr Satur\ng^\n5 OT o/g\no\nw c^ °^co\ntf ©co\nrt S\nO* 00\nci\n00 P P-\nVO re O O\nN GO r— r-\nw\nrt\nalS\nthe\nbout\nt C^\no*-\nM CO O O\nrimer\nains c\nSalt\nX .£2 O O\nCoi\nonl\nire\na\nIh\nTO X\nO SC\nO VO O TJ-\nS 8\n■si* CO O CO\nl\nCM -H\no\n-N\nX\nSi J*\nO 2 O O\nCO\n*rt\na\n55 H JS «J\n2\nx\nTO\n55\n1-\n0)\n-0\na\n_ _\nw\n2\n-0\n2\n.3 -u\nj\n,9\nO CO\n_ t/5 **-i\n3 d re\nre w p -t: nd u\n-n 2 2 O x.\n2 iS -P 5 co en\nO\nw E C re Eo g,\nre-re J^$\nCO\ncoO\nwhwffl\nCO qo\nt^\nD\n3\nn-\na,\nd\nO\niJQ\nrt\n0)\n5U\nC3\nrc\nO\nC\ncfl\n1-1\nIh\nD.\nc«\nO. ft\n00\nid\nO\nc\n-c\n-0\nOJ\nm\nO,\nCO\n3\nO.\nin\nrt J3\nCO\nas\n6C\nc\nM\no\nXI\nU1\na)\nrt\na\na\n07\nCO\nefl\nJ3\n-a\nCO\n.3\nrt\nCO\nc\nrii\nw-\nC\nO\n0)\nl/)\nJ\ntl\nre\n-3\na.\nkC\na.\nre\nN\nM\nO\no\n•u\ncj:\ntn\nrt\nO.\nP^\nQ\nrt\nO.\nC\n3\n-n\nrt\nC\n^fi\nO\nm\nO\ng\nrt\nin\nO\na\n•a\n^3\nCO\nCL.0J\nri\nH\n00\nu\nO\n3\nIX,\nXI\nC\n(1)\neu\nc\nX\nXI\n-a\nefl\nrt\nrfl\n3\nC\nF\n1\nM\nO\nV\nX\n.-rt\ntf\na\nCD\nrt\n3\nO\ncr\nr|\nW\ncr\nci\nCO\nCO\n3\nJS\nH\nC\nH\nM\nM\nd\nU\n2\nc3\na.\nM\nM\nn\nm\n—s\nC^\nl+H\nO re\nCO\nCfl Cfl\nuiS\na!\nrl-\nCfl\nCfl\nd\nCfl O\nrt v\na- xi\nS rt\nO co\nM Cfl\na\nJ2xi\nt-\nrt ?5\nrn\nre\nCM\nK\nM\nN\nr\nIT,\nw\n1\nC^\nH-l\n^.co\nC^*J\nC^-\nin\nas\nin\nc£\nO\ncS\n3\nO\nO\nCO\nCfl\nD\nx\nm\nO\nm\nn-\ni»-»\nKH\nM\nO\n•M\nffi\nn\nO\nas\nH9\nO\nCJ\nC\nU\nM\nffi\nO\n^■^■t\nO\nh»H\nCI\nM\nv\n1-1\n-C\nCD rt\ncfl\nCfl\ni2 13\n(21\n•rt\nCfl\nCfl\nrt\nC\nrt cfl\na rt\n.Hi\nreU\nO\nO\nu\nJ 3.\nCD\n^S\nCO\nxi rt\nw 6\nsi\ncfl XJ\nC8.2\nt« Cfl\n5-2\nre -(/3\nCfl cfl\nre c-j\n2 55\neu re\nCfl _i\nrt rt\nV-\n■t;\nrt re\nrt O\nO\nO CO cot*\nt-uca\nCO\n■a\nen\n■w.\n3\nc\nu\nen\nUi\nc\nO\nat\nCJ\nX\nH\nC X\n3 O\nO\nrt\n3\nrt\nCO\nX\nc/l\nrt\nW3\n3\nu.\nCJ\nU\nCO\nCO\nrt\n6C\nc c\nO\nu\na\nCO\n3\nox\ncfl\nrt\nCO\nc\nx\nhi\nr/l\nX\na\nM\nX\nO\nen\n1-\nn\nB\nre\nin\nen\nrt\nc\nCO\nen\nO\nO\nrt\nO\na-\nen\nC\nCO\nrt\nCD\nen\nC\nJ-i\n*J\nli\naj\nX\nrt.*\nu\nre\nrd\nOS\nrt\n3\n3\n3\nen\nX\na\n■U\nX\nrt\n3\nH\ncfl\nCOTJ\nX C\npar\nda.\nd, t\n3\nO\n,v?co\nCU\n3\nre\nrt\nrt\nX\n3\n1/1\nCO\n3\nrt\nX\nO\na,\nc\n3\n3\nT3\nC.J\n3\ns\nin\n1\n3\nrt\nB\ntn\nrt\n3\n3\ni\n*i,\nrt.\ncu\nR\nH\nrt\nM\nU\nocx\nX\nX\nrt\nr\nO\nX\nCO\n3\nrt\nu\nO\nC3\nm\nTJ\nEj\nre\n3\nOJ\nzz\nen\n1\nO\nk-\nc\nu\nu.\n3\n•s-\nU\n(11\nrt\nri\n3\nO\n3\n3\na\nin X\n5\nrt\n5","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0426.jp2"},"423":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n411\nPhotography.\nsufficient strength and brilliancy. Use Cramer s\nclearing- solution.\nIn compounding developers, carbonate of\npotassium or of sodium in different forms may\nbe used to answer the same purpose, if proper\nattention is paid to their relative strength.\nTwelve parts carbonate of sodium crystals\n(commonly termed sal soda or washing soda)\nare equivalent to 5 parts carbonate of sodium,\ndried, or 6 parts carbonate of potassium.\nThe sulphite of sodium is added to prevent\nrapid decomposition of the pyro or eikonogen.\nToo much sulphite in the developer renders its\naction slower\n5. Cramer s One Solution Developer.— Stock\nSolution.—\nSulphite of soda, crystals 3 troy oz.\nBromide of ammonium troy oz.\nBromide of potassium. 1)4 troy oz.\nPyrogallic acid 2 troy oz.\nDissolve thoroughly in distilled\nwater 32 fl. oz.\nAdd sulphuric acid, c. p 20 min.\nFinally strongest aqua ammo-\nnia 3 fl. oz.\nAnd water to make up bulk to. 40 11. oz.\nacid, 120 gr.; bromide ammonium, 40 gr.; pyro-\ngallic acid, 2 oz. 2. Water, 24 fl. oz.; sulphite of\nsoda crystals, 4 oz.; carbonate of potash, 6 oz.\nTo develop a 5x7 plate, take water 4 oz.; No. L,\n2 dr.; No. 2, 2 dr. If more intensity i S required,\nuse more of both No. 1 and No. 2. More of No.\n1 will restrain, more of No. 2 accelerate.\n8. Hoover Potash Developer.— A. Water, 12 fl.\noz.; crystals sodium sulphite, 2 oz.; citric acid,\n60 grn.; bromide ammonium, 20 grn.; pyrogal-\nlic acid, 1 oz.\nB. Water, 12 fl. oz.; crystals sodium sulphite,\n2oz.; potassium carbonate, 3 oz. Mix AandB\nin equal parts and use one drachm of the mix-\nture to each ounce of water.\nTintypes, Developer for.— Messrs. Spiller\nCrook, after long experience, give the follow-\ning as a good developer for ferrotype plates\nWater 1 oz.\nSulphate iron 14 grn.\nSaltpeter 10 grn.\nAcetic acid, No. 8 30 min.\nNitric acid 2 min.\nSome have added—\nSulphate of potash 10 grn.\nAckland s Table for the Simplification of Emulsion\nj Calculations.\n1 _\nmoc\nO -fl\nu-c C\n-T5 fl\n9§c~\n-a\nHlJ,t) _\n-O E rttj\n1) 0,—\nC\nZ jf-o\no.bO\n3 C C\nin t: 5\nlioi\nfl 3 w\n1 Si\n•3 4\ntil\nWeight of A\nrequired to\nvert One Gr\nSoluble Hal\nWeight of S\nHaloid requ\nConvert 1\nAgN0 3\nWeight of\nHaloid pro\nby One Gr\nSoluble Hal\nWeight of S\nHaloid ie\ntoprodi ce 1\nof Silver Ha\nWeight of\nHaloid pfo\nfrom Oce\nAgNO\nAmmonium bromide\nQS\n1734\n576\n1918\n521\nPotassium\n119 I\nI 4^7\n•700\n1-578\n•633\n.Sodium j\n103\n1-650\n•606\n1-825\n548\nI*I06\nCadmium j com.\n172\n•98S\nI OT2\n1-093\n9*5\nanh.\n136\nI 25\nSoo\n1-382\n•723\nZinc\nH2\nI 509\n•653\n1670\n660\nAmmonium chloride\n53 5\n3 -77\n315\n2*632\n*3?3\n$44\nSodium- M\n5^5\n2 906\n344\n2 453\n•40^\nAmmonium iodide\n145\n1 172\n■05?\nI 6?o\n•617\nj\nPotassium\nI66-I\n1-023\n977\n1*415\n•707\n1 1-382\nSodium\n159\n1 133\nSS2\n1-566\n■03S\nCadmium\n183\n•929\n1-076\n1 284\n•778\n1\nMeasure the sulphuric acid and the aqua am-\nmonia very exactly, and keep the latter in a\ncool place.\nFor use dilute as follows: For normal expos-\nures, 1 oz. to 11 oz. water. For instantaneous\nexposures, use 1 oz. with 3 or 6 oz. water. For\noverexposed plates, 1 to 20 oz. Fix in alum and\nhypo. bath.\nfi. The pyro. and carbonate of soda developer\nwill give softness. Dissolve in—\nWater 6 oz.\nSodium sulphite 2 dr.\nSodium carbonate 2 dr.\nand just before using add—\nDry pyrogallic acid 3gr.\nShould the density be too weak, put in twice\nthe quantity of pyro. The softness is regu-\nlated by the quantify of pyro. No bromide is\nnecessary.\n7 Hoover s Potash Developer.— 1. Water, 24\nfl. oz.; suiphite of soda crystals, 4 oz.; citric\nA potassium collodion should be used. The\ntones which this developer give are of a metal-\nlic luster, resembling the daguerreotype.\nThe Dusting on Process.— 1. Saturated solu-\ntion bichromate of ammonia, 10 drm.; honey, 6\ndrm.; albumen, 6 drm.; distilled water, 40 to 60\ndrm.\n2. Dextrine, 1 oz.; grape sugar, 1 oz.; bichro-\nmate, 1 oz.; water, 1 pt.\nEikonogen. See Developers.\nEnameling Photo. Prints. Use very clean\nplates and rather larger than the prints to be\nenameled. Wipe them well, rub them with talc,\nand remove the excess with a soft brush\npassed lightly over the surface. In a dish, half\nfilled with ordinary water, immerse the photo-\ngraphs and adow them to soak. This being\ndone, coat one of the talcked plates with enam-\neling collodion in the ordinary way, agitate to\ncause the ether to evaporate, and when the\nlilm has set— that is to say, in a few seconds-\nsteep this plate, the collodionized surface up.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0427.jp2"},"424":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n412\nPhotography.\n(0\nO\n3\no\nX\nu\no\no\no\no\n5\nH\nc\no\nt\n3\nCO\no\nv,\n0.\n^_\nCO\nO\nCO\nto\n^r\nCO\nVO\nCM\nCO\no\nCM\n2 3\nCO\nfv;\n3 -S 5\n2 -c o\n/5\n5 O\no\nc\nO\nO\np«\nCM\nT.\n00\nr^\ns\nc a\nt/i\n*ti)\no\no\nH\nCM\ncc\no\nCM\noo\nO\n•1 o J\nM\n«1\nrt o o\n^O?\nCO\no\no\no\no\no\no\nCM\nt*-\no s\nr\n05\nJ=\n.2 tc\n2 a J 8\nd\nd\nd\nd\nCO\nCO\no\nco\no\nCO\nCA\no\nu\nw\nCO\nCO\nCO\nCO\nCO\nCJ\nCJ\n2 o u_\nCO\nco\nco\n10\nS)\nCO\nCO\nCO\nu -M a\n_r.fi\n_.-\nnr:\nr.\n_,•»\n00\nC.J\n3 h=\na 5\nh-t\ncm\nen\no\nl_l\nCM\nCM\n*f\nv;\nt/\nCM\n-j-\nCO\no\nCM\nCO\no\nPI\n5 .2 2\n.3\nO\n1-1\nl**i\n3 ,-r *S\n5\nCCi tC CO\nui\no\no\no\nO\nM\nCM\nCO\nCO\n-a\no\no\no\no\no\no\no\no\nO\nO\no\nCO\nIN\nr\nCM\nCM\ntJ*\nCM\n.a 2 -c\nC8 S£ D\nJ B\n_d\no\no\nO\nm\nCN\nM^\no\nm\nM\n1-1\nCM\n1\na\nCO\nCO\no\no\no\nO\nO\nO\no\no\no\nCD\nCO\nCO\n1-1\nCM\nCM\nrl-\nCM\nCM\n3-\nO o\nc o\np 2\n3\no\no\no\np»\nCM\nin\no\nCM\nH\n2\nc-i\nTT\n__-\ndscape\nHeav\nage in\ngroun\nCO\nCO\nto\nw.\nCT\nd\nd\nd\no\nO\no\nO\no\no\nCO\nU\nCD\nCO\nCO\nCD\nCO\nCO\nCO\nen\nCO\nco\nco\nCO\nCO\nco\nCO\nCO\nLan\nwith\nFoli\nFore\n-cs\n-4rr HD»\nM\nCM\nri-\nCO\no\nCM\nm\nm\no\nd\no\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nd\nS TJ CO\no\nCO\ntu\nCO\nCO\nCO\nCO\nCO\nCO\nco c D.\nCO\nCO\nCO\nCO\nCO\nCO\nC/5\nv:\nto\nVo\nW CI\ncs H\nn-r:\nm CM*\nn\nTJ\nd\nO\nO\nd\nd\nd\nd\nC\nCU\nCD\no\nco\nCO\nCi)\nd\nt)\nCO\nni\nCO\nCT\n10\nCO\nto\nCO\nso\nCO\nCO\nfS to\nl\nz\nrto\nCO\nco\nM\nr-o\nni H-*-\nei\nTh\nM\nh-\nCO\no\nc -5 ir\nLn CO\nITS\nT3 O o\nt^\nin\nulate\nstem\nic So\nu\nM\nCO\nO\nCM\nvp\nCM\n,CM\nin\nvC\n.H i J\n►1\nCM\np\n2 =r\n»SS*\ns t/j a\nH CO\nC2\ni-i\nt-\nu\nO\no\nures\nndar\notog\nU\nV\n«M\nO\no\nc\nr.\nO\nC\nO\no\no\nCM\nr\n8\nm\nt;\nM\nc\noo\nM\nrr.\nVC\nM\nCM\na^\nd\nc\n6\nd\nd\n6\nc\n5 d\nd\n52\nZ\n^i\nZ\n2\nz\nr","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0428.jp2"},"425":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n413\nPhotography.\nin a second dish containing 1 pure water. Now\ntake one of the prints in the first dish and ap-\nply the printed side to the collodion, remove\nthe plate from the dish, keeping- the print in\nits place with the finger of the left hand, and\nremove the air bubbles by lightly rubbing the\nback of the photograph with the forefinger of\nthe right hand. Care has been taken before-\nhand to prepare some very pure starch\npaste, passed through a cloth, and some\nthin cardboards, or simply thick paper, the\nsize of the plates used. The air bubbles\nhaving completely disappeared, and the\nperfect adherence of the print ascertained,\ndry with bibulous paper, and spread over\nthe prepared cardboard on paper a coat-\ning of the collodion by means of a flat\nbrush. Apply this sheet on the print, pass the\nfinger over it to obtain complete adherence,\nand give it twenty-four hours to dry. At the\nexpiration of this time, cut with a penknife\nthe cardboard or paper even with the print,\nand detach by one corner. If the plate has\nbeen well cleaned, the print will come off itself.\nWe get in this manner a very brilliant surface,\nand as solid as that obtained by the use of gela-\ntine, which, as it is seen, is entirely done away\nwith in this process. The prints are afterward\nmounted on thick cardboard in the usual way.\nIt is possible, by mixing with the collodion\nsome methyl blue dissolved in alcohol (a few\ndrops are sufficient), to obtain mooolight ef-\nfects, especially if a rather strong negative has\nbeen used. For sunsets, make use of an alco-\nholic solution in coccinine. F. Tarniquet, in\nScience en Famille.\nEncaustic Paste.—\n1. Pure wax 500 parts.\nGum elemi 10 parts.\nBenzole 200 parts.\nEssence of lavender 300 parts.\nOil of spike 15 parts.\n2. A glace appearance may be given to\nprints by rubbing over the surface lightly\nwith clean flannel the encaustic paste made by\ndissolving in 200 grm. of benzole the following\ningredients\nGum elemi 10 grm.\nEssence of lavender 300 grm.\nOil of spike 15 grm.\nFilter and add—\nPure virgin wax 500 grm.\nThe whole should be set on a water bath,\nwhich will aid in dissolving the wax. To make\nthe paste thinner add more of the essence of\nlavender.\n3. Dr. Eder s Cerate (Encaustic) Paste.—\nWhite wax (pure), 100 grn.; dammar varnish,\n40 drops; oil of turpentine, 100 drops.\n4. Salomon s.— Pure virgin wax, 250 parts;\ngum elemi, 5 parts; benzole, 100 parts; essence\nof lavender, 150 parts; oil of spike, 7^ parts.\n5. Best white wax (cut in shreds), 2 oz.; tur-\npentine, 10 fl. oz. Dissolve with moderate heat.\nIf too hard, add a small quantity of turpen-\ntine.\nFaded Photographs, to Restore.— The follow-\ning method is simple and in most cases quite\neffective Put the card in warm water until\nthe paper print may be removed from the card\nbacking without injury. Hang up the paper\nin a warm place until perfectly dry, and then\nimmerse it in a quantity of melted white wax.\nAs soon as it has become thoroughly impreg-\nnated with the wax it is pressed under a hot\niron to remove excess of the latter, and rubbed\nwith a tuft of cotton. This operation deepens\nthe contrasts of the picture and brings out\nmany minor details previously invisible, the\nyellowish whites being rendered more trans-\nparent, while the half tones and shadows re-\ntain their brown opaque character. The pic-\nture thus prepared may then be used in pre-\nparing a negative which may be employed for\nprinting in the usual way.\nFaded prints can be restored by means of the\nfollowing solutions: A. Sodium tungstate.\n100 parts; water, 5,000 parts. B. Precipitated\nchalk, 4 parts; bleaching powder (chloride of\nlime), 1 part; sodium aurochloride, 4 parts; dis-\ntilled water, 400 parts. Solution B is made in a\nwell corked yellow glass bottle, is allowed to\nstand twenty-four hours, and is then filtered\ninto another yellow bottle, The faded prints\nare well washed, and placed in a mixture of 1\nto 2 parts of B and 40 parts of A. When the\nintensification is sufficient, the prints are im-\nmersed in a solution of 1 part of hypo in 10\nparts of solution A until all yellowness has dis-\nappeared, and are then well washed.— (H. Lau-\ndaurek, A. Phot. B., xxi., 420).\nFailures.— Foggy Negatives.— Caused by over-\nexposure white light entering camera or dark\nroom; too much light during development;\ndecomposed pyro., introduction of hypo, or\nnitrate of silver into the developing solution,\nfrom the fingers or from tablets used for wet\nplates developer too warm or containing too\nmuch carbonate of soda or potassium.\nWeak Negatives with Clear Shadows. Under\ndevelopment.\nToo Strong with Clear Shadows.— Under\nexposure.\nWeak Negative with plenty oi Detail in the\nShadows.— Want of intensity, caused by over\nexposure. Shorter exposure with longer devel-\nopment will in most cases produce sufficient in-\ntensity, and an addition of more pyro. stock so-\nlution to the developer will seldom be neces-\nsary.\nFine Transparant Lines.— Using too stiff a\nbrush in dusting off plates.\nTransparent Spots.— Dust on plate or air\nbubbles while developing.\nCrystallizations on the Negative and Fading\nof Image. Imperfect elimination of the hypo.\nYellow colored negatives are caused by not\nusing enough sulphite of sodium in developer,\nor if the article used is old and decomposed.\nYellow stains are caused by using old hypo,\nbath which has assumed a dark color, or by not\nleaving plate in hypo, bath long enough.\nMottled appearance of negative is caused by\nprecipitation from fixing bath containing\nalum, if the solution becomes old or if it is\nturbid.\nFilms, to Strip.— M. Izard recommends the\nfollowing plan of stripping photographic films\nfrom glass. Make a solution of rubber in ben-\nzol, and coat your negative with it when dry,\napply a film of collodion, yet another of rubber,\nand finally, another of collodion. A narrow\nstrip of black paper is then cemented to the\nmargin of the p^ate all round, and this, when\nthe film is dry and is stripped with a penknife,\nmakes a suitable frame.\nFixing Baths.— Carbutt s New Acid Fixing\nand Clearing Bath.—\n1. Hyposulphite of soda 16 oz.\nSulpnite of soda 2 oz.\nSulpnuric acid 1 drm.\nChrome alum y 2 oz.\nWarm water 64 oz.\nDissolve the sulphite of soda in 8 oz. of the\nwater. Mix the sulphuric acid with 2 oz. of the\nwater, and add slowly to the solution of soda\nsulphite dissolve the chrome alum in 8 oz. oi\nthe water, the hyposulphite soda in the re-\nmainder, then add. the sulphite solution, and\nlast the chrome alum. This fixing bath will not\ndiscolor until after long usage, and both clears\nup the shadows of tne negative and hardens\nthe fiim at the same time.\nLet remain two or th^ee minutes after nega-\ntive is c 1 eared of all appearance of silver bro-\nmide. Then wash in running water for not less\nthan half an hour to free from any trace of\nhypo, solution. Swab the surface with wad of\nwet cotton, rinse, and place in rack to dry\nspontaneously.\n2. Cramer s Fixing Bath.— After developing","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0429.jp2"},"426":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n414\nPhotography.\nMetric W ghts.\nand Meas.\n1 liter.\n120 arm.\n15 c. c.\n90 grm.\ngrm.\nliters.\nkilo,\nkilo,\ngrm.\nliters.\nand rinsing, the negatives may be fixed in a\nplain hypo, bath, 1 part hyposulphite of soda to\n4 parts of water, but the following formula is\nespecially recommended\nEngl. Meas.\nTroy Wght\nWater 1 qt.\nSulphite of sodium crys-\ntals 4 oz.\nAfter being dissolved add—\nSulphuric acid oz.\nChrome alum, powdered. 3 oz.\nDissolve and pour this\ninto a solution of—\nHyposulphite of soda 2 lb. 1 kilo.\nWater 3 qt. 3 liters.\nThis bath combines the following advan-\ntages It remains clear after frequent use it\ndoes not discolor the negatives and forms no\nprecipitate upon them. It also hardens the\ngelatine to such a degree that the negatives\ncan be washed in warm water, provided they\nhave been left in the bath a sufficient time.\nThe plate should be allowed to remain in the\nbath five to ten minutes after the bromide of\nsilver appears to have been dissolved. The per-\nmanency of the negative and freedom from\nstain as well as the hardening of the film de-\npends upon this.\n3.— Fixing Bath.—\nHyposulphite of soda 500\nWater 4\n4.— Hot Weather Bath.—\nHyposulphite of soda 1\nPowdered alum 1\nBicarbonate of soda 250\nWater 8\nFlash Light Poivder to Burn.— A square me-\ntallic spirit lamp, having a flat top, is fitted\nwith two wicks, one in front of the other, and\nseparated by two or three inches. Immediately\nbehind this lamp is a short wide-mouthed bot-\nt le containing magnesium in powder. Dipping\ninto this powder is a glass tube, the other end\nbeing carried up through the cork and bent\ntoward the flames of the spirit lamp, which are\nin a line with the direction of the blowpipe.\nA second short piece of tube is passed through\nt he cork, its outer end being connected with\nthe rubber tube of a pneumatic ball. On giv-\ning this ball a quick, sharp squeeze, a small\nquantity of the powder is suddenly ejected\nfrom the blowpipe nozzle against the flames,\nthis being attended by a dazzling flash. This is\ncapable of being repeated as long as any of the\nmagnesium powder remains in the bottle.—\nBr. Jour^ of Photography.\nFlash JLdght Powders.— 1. Magnesium powder,\n6 oz. potassium chlorate, 12 oz.; antimony sul-\nphide, 2 oz. 75 to 150 grn. of the powder should\nbe used. 2. 15 grn. of gun cotton and 30 grn.\nof magnesium powder are used.\n3. Magnesium 40#.\nPermanganate of potassium 40$.\nPeroxide of barium 20#.\n4. Purchase 1 oz. of magnesium powder and 1\noz. of negative gun cotton from dealers in pho-\ntographic materials. Place on a dust pan\nenough cotton, when pulled out, to measure\nabout 3^ in. in diameter. Sprinkle it over\nwith 20 grn. of magnesium powder to form a\nthin, even film. Lay over the magnesium thus\narranged a very thin layer of gun cotton.\nConnect to the bunch of cotton a small fuse of\ntwisted cotton about 6 in. long, so that it will\nextend to the side of the dust pan. Then set\nthe pan on a step ladder near the object, and\nwhen ready, light the gun cotton fuse with a\nmatch, when instantly a brilliant flash will en-\nsue. There are several ready prepared magne-\nsium compounds now sold with special devices\nand lamps to fire them.\nTd Find the Focus of a Lens.— The focus of a\nlens, i. e., the distance it is from the ground\nglass when the object to be photographed is in\ncorrect focus, differs with the distance at which\nthe object photographed is from the camera.\nThe focus, however, for the purpose of defini-\ntion, is what is known as the equivalent focus,\nand is taken as that distance at which an\nobject at a considerable distance off is found to\nbe in focus. The simplest way to find the\nequivalent focus of a lens is to point the lens\nand camera at the sun, and focus the image of\nthe latter on the ground glass. The distance,\nthen, between the ground glass and the lens, it\na single one, or between the ground glass and\nthe diaphragm aperture, will be the equivalent\nfocus of the lens. There are more exact and\nmathematical methods than this, but it will be\nfound to be practically all that is desired ex-\ncept for purely scientific purposes.\nFormaldehyde. See Developers.\nFrilling.— 1. The following formula of Cap-\ntain Abney s is, in most cases, a sure remedy\nagainst frilling\nTough pyroxyline 6 grn.\nAlcohol (0*820) U oz.\nEther (0 75.) y 2 oz.\nApply this to the film before development; the\nsolvents must then be washed away in a dish of\nclean water. When all repellent action is gone*\napply the developing solution.\n2. No. 1. Gallic acid, 1 part; alcohol, 10 parts.\nNo. 2. silver nitrate, 1 part; water, 16 parts;\nacetic acid, \\i part. Mix 1 part No. 1 with 4 parts\nwater and add a few drops No. 2.\nFrost Pictures on the Window.— The beautiful\nfairyland like forms which frost often takes\non the window panes of a cold morning form\na splendid and attractive subject for camera\nwork. They are best taken when the light\nfalls on them sideways, and not full from the\nfront. Set the camera dead square with the\nwindow and, behind the window pane and a\nfoot from it put a board covered with black\nvelvet or other dark non-actinic material. Use\na slow plate, stop down until the utmost sharp-\nness is obtained, and give an exposure of three\nor four seconds, calculated at //16. Of course in\nmost cases to secure these pictures the photog-\nrapher must be up early.\nGlazing Gelatine Prints.— The use of highly\nhand polished sheet vulcanite rubber for im-\nparting a high gloss to the surface of gelatino-\nbromide prints is now well known, but, in con-\nsequence of the difficulty in obtaining good\nsamples, and of its high cost, the general use\nof it has been somewhat limited. A substitute,\nin the shape of ferrotype plates, costing but a\nmere fraction of the rubber, has been recently\ntried with success. Upon the smooth, varnished\nside of the sheet is laid the moist print, film,\nside down. It is then squeegeed by passing a\nrubber roller over the back, which presses out\nall the air bells. In an hour or so the print,\nwhen dry, can be pulled off at one corner, and\nwill possess a high gloss. A slight heat applied\non the rough side of the metal sheet will ma-\nterially hasten the drying.— Scientific American.\nGlace Prints.— Apply the prints face down\nwhile wet to the smooth varnished side of a\nferrotype plate, squeezing it by rolling a rubber\nroller over the back, having blotting paper\nbetween the print and paper. When dry it\nwill have a high polish and drop off the sheet.\nThe polish is called glace finish. To mount such\nprints without losing the gloss, make the fol-\nlowing mounting solution: Soak 1 oz. refined\ngelatine in cold water for an hour, then drain\noff and squeeze out the water as much as pos-\nsible; put the gelatine in a jelly pot and place\nthe latter in a pan of hot water on the fire;\nwhen the gelatine has melted stir in slowly 2^£\noz. pure alcohol, and bottle for use. This glue\nwill keep indefinitely, and can be melted for\nuse in a few minutes by standing the bottle in a\nbasin of hot water. As it contains a very small\npercentage of water, it hardly affects the gloss\nof the prints and dries almost immediately.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0430.jp2"},"427":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n415\nPhotography.\nGlass Substitute, Orange.— Mr. J. B. Huffman,\nof Chillicothe, Mo., sends the following substi-\ntute for orange glass for dark room work to\nthe St. Louis Photographer. It is simple and\neasily tried\nAsphaltum 3 parts.\nSpirits of turpentine 1 part.\nCoat the glass plate from one to four times,\nas desired, flowing the same as if it were col-\nlodion.\nPhotographic Dark Room Windows.— The fol-\nlowing formula has been recommended as a\nstain for dark room windows\nWater .100 c. c.\nGelatine 5 grm.\nNitrate of silver 1 grm.\nGlass coated with this solution is exposed to\nlight until it assumes a reddish brown tint. It\nis then washed to eliminate the nitrate of sil-\nver. A surface is thus obtained through which\nthe actinic rays do not pass. The coloration\nmay be deepened by increasing the proportion\nof nitrate of silver up to 3 or even 4 grm. Glass\ntinted in this way may also be used to shade\nthe dark room lantern.\nGold, Chloride o/.-Dr. John H. Janeway, an\namateur photographer, suggests the following\nmethod Dissolve a $2.50 gold piece in 6 drm. of\nchemically pure muriatic acid, 3 drm. chem-\nically pure nitric acid, and 3 drm. distilled\nwater. Put the gold in a large graduate, pour\non the acids and water, cover the graduate\nwith a piece of glass to shut off or retard the\nescape of fumes, and set in the sun or in a warm\nplace. When the gold is dissolved add bicar-\nbonate of soda very gradually, stirring with\na glass rod at each addition, until effervescence\nhas ceased and the froth subsided, and the car-\nbonate of copper which has been formed is de-\nposited as a green precipitate. Now add 6 oz.\nof water, and let the whole settle for not over\nthirty minutes, and then very carefully filter\nthe solution. To the clear golden liquid which\nhas passed through the filter add carefully\nenough nitric acid, chemically pure, to turn\nblue litmus paper decidedly red, then add\nenough pure water to make the solution meas-\nure 33 fl. oz. The solution will keep for any\nlength of time, and 1 oz. will tone 4 sheets of\npaper.— From Philadelphia Photographer.\nHalation and its Prevention.— Halation is the\nterm given to the halo which often surrounds\nwindows in photographs of interiors, and\nblocks up the details. It is, too, often found to\noccur in landscapes taken in a strong light, the\ntops of trees and other objects which are sur-\nrounded by strong light being lost in a mist, or\nentirely obliterated. It is caused by reflection\nfrom the back of the plate, and occurs most\nstrikingly in plates of the cheap class, which\nare thinly coated. With very thickly-coated\nplates it rarely occurs, except when taking\nbrightly-lighted interiors. To prevent it the\nback of the plate may be coated with a mix-\nture of powdered burnt sienna, oz.; gum\narabic, oz.; glycerine, 1 oz.; water, 5 oz. This\nis readily washed off before development. A\nspecial ready-made preparation is sold for this\npurpose by Tylar, if preferred. Another way\nis to cut dead black needle paper, or black\nAmerican cloth, to the size of the plate, coat it\nwith glycerine and squeegee it on to the back\nof the plate when placing it in the slide.\n1. Cornu (Compt. Rend., B. S. F. Phot.) has\ndiscussed the phenomena of halation, and\npoints out that in order to prevent halation\nentirely the varnish or pigment put on the\nback of the plate must have the same refract-\nive index as glass. Such a pigment is obtained\nby mixing lampblack with certain essential oils,\na mixture of oil of cloves and oil of cinnamon\nanswering very well.\n2. Debenham (Phot. J.) has investigated the\nrelative efficiency of various substances when\napplied as a backing to plates with a view to\nprevent halation, and finds that very good re-\nsults are obtained with a mixture of gelatine\nand burnt sugar, or gum, burnt sugar, and\nChinese ink.\n3. J. Pike (B. J. Phot. A.) backs plates with\na mixture of matt varnish and collodion deeply\nstained with rosaniline. The collodion he makes\nby dissolving 1 oz. pyroxylin in 12 oz. methyl-\nated spirit and 36 oz. methylated ether of sp. gr.\n0-735.\n4. Mr. W. E. Debenham (Jnl. of Photo. Soc.\nN. S., xiv.) has devised an apparatus for esti-\nmating the efficiency of plate backings. He\nemploys a paraffine lamp behind an optical lan-\ntern condenser, and a graduated screen in front\nof it, reflecting the light into the camera -lens\nby a right-angled prism, on the reflecting sur-\nface of which the material to be tested is placed.\nHe has tested a considerable number of sub-\nstances, and the following list enumerates them\nin the order of their efficiency, and gives occa-\nsional explanatory remarks\na. No backing.\nb. Two parts of lampblack with 1 part of bi-\ntumen. Optical contact very poor when dry.\nc. Carbon tissue squeegeed on after soaking\nit in a mixture of equal parts of glycerine and\nwater. Practically impossible to get optical\ncontact.\nd. Burnt sienna laid on with a sponge.\ne. A benzine solution of bitumen applied\nthickly.\nA commercial dead black.\ng. Gum and burnt sienna.\nh. Gelatine, burnt sugar and China ink.\ni. Gelatine and burnt sugar.\n3. Gum, burnt sugar and China ink.\nIt seems that with backing e the exposure\nmust be increased about 240 times to get an\neffect equal to that when no backing is applied.\nThe last three give practically equal results,\nand are very strikingly superior to the bitumen\ne. Mr. Chapman Jones (Photography) holds\nthat under theoretically perfect conditions the\nwhole of the photographically active light that\nimpinges upon a sensitive plate would be re-\ntained in the film, and be available for the pro-\nduction of the image on development, and that\nthe film ought to be, and practically can be, so\nopaque that backing the plate is unnecessary\nin landscape work and portraiture. Some\nContinental savants have given much attention\nto the subject of halation, but they do not ap-\npear to have added anything to our knowledge\nof the matter.\nHydrochinon. See Developer s.\nHydrozylamine. See Developers.\nHypo., to Remove.— 1. Hydroxyl.\nPeroxide of hydrogen (20 vol.) 1 drm.\nWater 5 oz.\nAfter washing the negative well it is im-\nmersed for a couple of minutes in the solution\nand again rinsed in water, when the intensifi-\ncation with silver can be at once proceeded\nwith.\n2. Where peroxide of hydrogen is not obtain-\nable the following may be used as a substitute,\nthe solution containing that substance in com-\nbination with others\nBarium dioxide 1 oz.\nGlacial acetic acid 1 oz.\nWater 4 oz.\nBeduce the barium dioxide to a fine powder\nand add it gradually to the acid and water,\nshaking until dissolved. A few minutes im-\nmersion in this solution will effectually remove\nor destroy the last traces of hypo.\nHypo., Test for.— A simple test to tell when\nthe hypo, is eliminated is to add to the washing\nwater in which the prints are immersed a\nsmall quantity of an alcoholic solution of\niodine. This will change the white back of\neach print to a light blue color, which proves\nthat hypo, is still present in the paper. The\nprints are continued to be washed until the\nblue disappears from the back of the print.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0431.jp2"},"428":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n418\nPhotography.\nWe then know that the hypo, is completely\neliminated.\nInk for Writing on Photographs.— The follow-\ning- answers very well for numbering- and mark-\ning proofs, the writing being executed on a\ndark portion\nIodide of potassium 10 parts.\nWater 30 parts.\nIodine 1 part.\nGum 1 part.\nThe lines soon bleach under the strokes by the\nconversion of the silver into iodide.\nInk, Printing Process.— By means of gelatino-\nbromide of silver emulsions, rapid printing-\npaper can be successfully made, but its manu-\nfacture is attended with considerable bother;\n.and as it will keep well it is advisable for the\nbeginner to purchase it ready prepared from\ndealers in photographic materials. One method\nof preparing the paper is, first, to make a sen-\nsitive emulsion as given by Henderson on page\n293 of the November 8, 1884, issue of the Scien-\ntific American, and then to coat a sheet of plain\nSaxe paper with it, by laying the moistened\nsheet upon a level plate of glass, and bending\nthe edges up by strips of wood, to form a paper\ndish. The emulsion while warm is now poured\non the center of the sheet until a pool is\nformed large enough to permit it to be spread\nequally over the sheet by a glass rod. It is\nthen allowed to cool, and when sufficiently set\nthe sheet of paper is hung up to dry. It may\nnow be exposed, film side away from the face\nof the thick cardboard drawing, in an ordinary\nprinting frame for two or three seconds to dif-\nfused daylight, or for a minute and a half to\nthe light from a large kerosene lamp. The im-\nage is then developed by immersing the exposed\nsheet in a solution of ferrous oxalate of pot-\nash composed, of saturated solution of neutral\noxalate potash acidified with a solution of ox-\nalic acid sufficient to turn blue litmus paper\nred, 6 oz. saturated solution of sulphate of iron,\n1 oz. The iron must be poured into the oxalate.\nHalf a dozen exposed sheets may be developed\none after the other, in the same solution. The\nsheet is next washed by soaking in a pan of\nwater for four or five minutes, removed and\nimmersed in a solution of\nHyposulphite soda 1 oz.\nWater 6 oz.\nfor eight minutes, which fixes the print; the\nlatter must now be washed for two or three\nhours in several changes of cold water, when\nit may be hung up to dry, which it must do\nspontaneously, as the application of heat will\nmelt the gelatine film. Examination of the\nprint will show the lines and figures non-re-\nversed as in the original drawing, because the\nsensitive sheet was laid on film side away from\nthe drawing. The operation of preparing and\ndeveloping the paper must be carried on in a\ndark room lighted only by a deep ruby red\nnon-actinic lamp.\nA. Intensification. With correct exposure and\ndevelopment, intensification need never be\nresorted to. The following formula is, how-\never, very effective.\n1. Bichlor. mercury, 240 grn.; chloride am-\nmonia, 240 grn.; distilled water, 20 oz.\n2. Chloride ammonia, 480 grn.; water, 20 oz.\n3. Sulphite of soda (crys.) 1 oz.; water, 9 oz.\nLet the plate to be intensified wash for at\nleast half an hour; then lay in alum solution\nfor ten minutes and again wash thoroughly;\nthis is to insure the perfect elimination of the\nhypo. The least trace of yellowness after in-\ntensifying shows that the washing was not suffi-\ncient.\nFlow sufficient of No. 1 over the negative to\ncover it, and allow to either partially or en-\ntirely whiten; the longer it is allowed to act\nthe more intense will be the result; pour off\ninto the sink, then flow over No. 2, and allow to\nact one minute; wash off and pour over or im-\nmerse in No. 3 until changed entirely to a dark\nbrown or black. No. 3 can be returned to its\nbottle, but NOs. 1 and 2 had better be thrown\naway. Wash thoroughly and dry.\nB. In the following paragraphs various meth-\nods of intensifying gelatino-bromide plates are\narranged according to the amount of density\nproducible by their (means.\n1. Almost Imperceptible Increase of Density.\nThe negative is soaked for a minute in water,\nthen dried rapidly by taking off the surface\nmoisture with a soft cloth or blotting paper,\nafter which the plate is placed in a horizontal\nposition and exposed to a current of warm,\ndry air, until it is quite dry.\n2. Perceptible Increase of Density.— The wet\nnegative is wiped back and front with a cloth,\nthen immersed for a few minutes in a bath of\nmethylated spirits; when taken out it is drained\nfor a few seconds, wiped again with a dry\ncloth and held before the fire or over a gas\nflame, keeping it at a safe distance at first and\nin a horizontal position.\n3. Slight Increase of Density.— The plate, af-\nter being washed from the hypo., is immersed\nin a saturated solution of bichloride of mer-\ncury in water. It should remain in this bath\nuntil it bocomes white if it refuses to bleach,\nit is probable that the hyposulphite has not\nall j been removed. The bleached plate is\nrinsed for about 3 seconds not more— in water,\nso as to remove the surplus mercury solution\nfrom the surface, then it is at once dipped into\na bath consisting of a semi-saturated solution\nof sulphite of soda. This second bath will\nslowly turn the plate black, and will also, as a\nconsequence of the insufficient washing, cover\nthe surface of the film with a dense white de-\nposit, which cannot be rubbed off but this de-\nposit will very quickly dissolve away in the\nfinal washing and leave the image perfect.\nThe density will remain the same if the plate is\ndried slowly, but will be increased by drying\nquickly, according to No. 2.\n4. Moderate Increase of Density.— The plate\nis treated precisely as in No. 3, except that a\nthorough washing is given between the bichlo-\nride of mercury and the sulphite of soda baths.\nThis gives additional density. No white deposit\nwill be produced, but a good final washing\nshould be given. Extra density may also be\nproduced by quick drying.\nWhen the image is of a deep yellow or non-\nactinic color, such as is sometimes produced\nwith pyro. development, the use of this intensi-\nfier, No. 4, will alter the color to a neutral gray\nof about equal printing value. If it should\nthen prove to be too dense, the plate can be im-\nmersed for a few minutes in the hypo. bath. This\nwill take away the extra density, and leave a\ngray image equal in depth to the original yel-\nlow one, but of course much quicker for print-\ning purposes.\n5. A Vigorous Intensifier.— The plate, or\nrather the film upon it, is bleached in a sat-\nurated solution of mercury bichloride in water,\nwashed, dried then, when dry, immersed in\na semi-saturated solution of sulphite of soda,\nwashed again and dried. The only difference\nbetween this process and No. 4 is in the drying\nof the plate between the mercury and sulphite\nof soda baths. This drying causes a decided in-\ncrease of density.\n6. A Powerful Intensifier.— This, the well-\nknown ammonia process, is about equal in\nstrength to the preceding. The plate is bleached\nas before and washed thoroughly. If the wash-\ning is too short, stains will be produced which\ncannot be removed. After washing, the wet\nplate is immersed in very weak ammonia (wa-\nter, 20 parts ammonia, 1 part). The plate in-\nstantly turns black. A fair amount of wash-\ning should then be given to secure permanence\nand freedom from stains. Dry slowly, if the\ndensity is sufficient.\n7. In addition to the above, we recommend","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0432.jp2"},"429":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n417\nPhotography.\nMonckhoven s cyanide of silver intensifier,\nmade as follows\nNo. 1.\nBichloride of mercury 120 grn.\nBromide of potassium 60 grn.\nWater 12^ oz.\nNo. 2.\nCyanide of potassium crystals\n(pure) 120 grn.\nA. Water 6^4 oz.\nB. Nitrate of silver 120 grn.\nWater 6J4 oz.\nPour A into B, which forms cyanide of silver.\nA slight excess of silver will settle at the bot-\ntom of the bottle, which assists in keeping the\nsolution up to its full strength and does no\nharm.\nThe plate should be left in No. 1 until the\nfilm appears white on the back. It is then\nthoroughly washed and immersed in No. 2, or\nthe solution may be poured on quickty. Im-\nmediately the film will commence to blacken,\nand the plate should be kept in until there ap-\npears to be no white cOlor on the back, if left\ntoo long, the cyanide will commence to reduce\nthe negative.\nThis intensifier acts rapidly and imparts to\nthe film a bluish black color. It is an excellent\nintensifier for lantern slides, imparting a de-\nsirable warm purple color.\n8. To Cure Over Intensification.— There is a\nvery simple method of reducing negatives\nwhich have been intensified by mercury solu-\ntions. It is simply to leave them in the fixing\nbath for a longer or shorter period, according\nto th« amount of reduction desired. If left for\nhalf an hour, the whole of the extra density\nimparted by the intensifying process will be\nremoved, and the plate will then be in its origi-\nnal condition. The hypo, should of course be\nfinally freed from the film by a copious wash-\ning.\n9. Cramer s Intensifying Solution. Prepare\na saturated solution of bichloride of mercury\nin water, and of this pour a sufficient quantity\ngradually into a solution of—\nEngl. Meas. Metric Wghts.\nTroy Wght. and Meas.\nIodide of potassium 1J4 oz. 50 grm.\nWater 6 oz. 250c.c.\nuntil the point is reached when the forming\nred precipitate will no longer dissolve by shak-\ning, but be careful not to add more mercury\nthan just enough to make the solution very\nslightly turbid. Now add—\nHyposulphite of soda 1 oz. 40 grm.\nDissolve and fill up\nwith water to make\ntotal solution 20 oz. 800 c. c.\nFor use this should be diluted with about 3\nparts of water. If the plate has not been thor-\noughly fixed, the intensifying solution will\nproduce yellow stains. Be careful not to over-\ndo the intensifying. Should it have gone too\nfar, the negative can be reduced by placing it\nin the fixing bath for a short time.\n10. Intensifying Solution. Saturated solu-\ntion bichloride mercury.\nIodide potassium 40 grm.\nWater 180 c. c.\nHypo 30 grm.\nWater to make up to 600 c. c.\n11. Lead Intensifier.— Lead nitrate, 20 grn.;\nferricyanide of potassium, 30 grn.; distilled\nwater, 1 oz., and filter. Follow, after very\nthorough washing, with ammonium sulphide in\n10 times its bulk of water. The washing before\nthe ammonium sulphide should be continued\nuntil thedrainings from the plate give a scarce-\nly perceptible blue color, with ferrous sulphate\nsolution, that is, until the ferricyanide is quite\nwashed out, for the least trace of lead remain-\ning will surely cause fog.\n12. Uranium Intensifier. Cranium nitrate,\n4 grn. to 1 oz. of water. After soaking the\nplate in this, mix the liquid with a dilute solu-\ntion of potassium ferricyanide made by run-\nning water over a few crystals to wash them,\nand then shaking them with a drachm or two\nof water a few seconds. Add more ferricyan-\nide as necessary.\n13. Intensification with Cupric Bromide.—\nPrepare cupric bromide solution by mixing a\nsolution of lpart potassium bromide in 25 parts\nwater with a solution of 1 part cupric sulphate\nin 25 parts water, allow to settle, and filter or\ndecant off the clear liquid. Wash the negative\nuntil free from hypo, and immerse in the cup-\nric bromide solution, which will convert it\ninto a brilliant white positive. Wash well and\nimmerse in strong ammonia solution diluted\nwith 12 parts of water. This intensifier gives\nincreased contrasts. S. R. Bottone, Y. B.\nPhot. 1891, 115, 116.\nLantern Plates, a Use for Spoiled.— The best\nthing to do when lantern plates have been\nspoiled by over exposure or errors in develop-\nment, or by the light getting at them, is to\nstrip the films from them, and use them as\ncover glasses for binding up the completed\nslides.\nLeaf Photographs. Pass the paper first\nthrough a solution of gelatin, 1 part in 20 parts\nof hot water, and use a strong solution of pot-\nassium bichromate; or the gelatin and bi-\nchromate may be used together. Wash with\nhot water. A strong blue background may\nbe produced as follows Dissolve in 2 oz. of\npure water 120 grn. of red prussiate of potash\n(potassium ferrocyanide), and separately 140\ngrn. double citrate of iron and ammonium in 2\noz. of water; mix the solutions, filter, float the\npaper for a few minutes on the filtrate; print\nfrom the dried paper as beforehand wash\nthoroughly in water. By adding a little phos-\nphoric acid to the bichromate solution and ex-\nposing the print before washing to the vapor of\na hot solution of aniline in alcohol, a blackish-\ngreen or red positive is obtained. Or, prepare\nthe paper with solution of iron sesquichloride,\nand develop after exposure with a very dilute\nsolution of silver nitrate. Use plain photo-\ngraphic paper.\n.Light, the Safest for Dark Room Use.— Bear in\nmind that very rapid plates are sensitive to light\nof any color. The safest light is a combination\nof a ruby and yellow, just strong enough to en-\nable you to judge of intensity of negative and\nprogress of development, and the plate should\nnot be held close to the light for examination\nfor more than a few seconds.\nThe following combinations make a safe\nlight\nOrange colored paper with ruby glass.\nOrange glass with cherry fabric.\nRuby glass with canary fabric.\nOrange and ruby glass combined with ground\nglass.\nGreen is not as non-actinic as ruby and yel-\nlow combined, and it has furthermore the dis-\nadvantage that with it the intensity of nega-\ntive cannot be judged so well as with the ruby\nlight.\nTo make sure your light is safe, make the fol-\nlowing test\nCover one half of a lightning plate with\nopaque paper and expose it to the light for\nabout two minutes at the distance generally\nobserved while developing. Develop, and if the\nunprotected part of plate shows fog, screen the\nlight with additional paper or fabric until it is\nfound perfectly safe.\nLightning, Photographing of.— A very inter-\nesting study is lightning photography. It is a\nEuzzling one to the beginner, yet it is, per-\naps, the simplest form of photography which\ncan be imagined. If the photographer has had\nmuch experience, he will doubtless know the\npoint at which his camera requires to be racked\nout to insure the lens being in proper focus","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0433.jp2"},"430":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n418\nPhotography.\nfor a distant object. If this is so, lie need have\nno further trouble than, when night conies on\nand the lightning commences to play, to rack\nout his camera to this point, fix it up, and di-\nrect it toward that portion of the sky from\nwhich the lightning appears, then place the\ndark slide in the back, and draw the slide, re-\nmove the cap, and wait for the flash. It being-\nnight, no harm can come to the plate by rea-\nson of this exposure during the interval of\nwaiting. The lightning will impress itself upon\nk tie plate without any need of shutter or other\ncontrivance. If the point at which the camera\nis in focus is at a distance which is not known,\nthere will probably be a lamp somewhere or\nother within sight, and in this case a rough\nfocus can be obtained upon that.\nLinen or Other Fabric, Photographing on.—\nFor decorating table napkins, bed room trim-\nmings, etc., the following simple process works\nsatisfactorily, and photographers may often\ndo much extra business by introducing it to\ntheir customers.\nBoil the fabric in water containg a little\nsoda, so as to remove the dressing, iron smooth,\nand saturate with—\nAmmonium chloride 2 grammes.\n(about 31 grains).\nWater 250 cubic cents.\n(about 9 ounces).\nWhite of two eggs.\nThe above are well beaten together, allowed\nto subside, and strained. When dry, sensitize\non the usual silver bath— rather a strong bath\nis to be preferred— expose, tone, and fix as for\nan ordinary print on albumen paper.— Photo.\nReview.\nMachinery, Photographing of.— A color for\ncoating machinery previous to photograph-\ning\nDry white lead... 5 lb.\nLampblack 2to 5 oz.\nGold size 1 pt.\nTurpentine 1)4, pt.\nThe amount of lampblack is varied to suit ma-\nchine or lighting. This paint is easily removed\nwith turpentine.\nMatt Surface on Silver Prints.— Mount the\nprint in the ordinary way, avoiding lumps.\nKoll, and afterward sift on the surface finely\nground pumice powder. With a circular mo-\ntion rub gently with the palm of the hand.\nProceed until the surface desired is obtained.\nThe use of plain paper is recommenced.\nMoonlight Effects.— The so-called moonlight\neffect is a photographic deception. To secure\nthis effect select a view with the sun almost in\nfront of the camera, but itself hidden or partly\nobscured by clouds, and preferably a day when\nthe sky is full and well defined, and well broken\nup with cloud masses. Then expose about the\nusual time for the view in question, and devel-\nop with a developer containing only 34 grn. of\npyro. to the oz., until the details are just out.\nAVash off the developer, and apply a fresh one,\n4grn. of pyro. and 4 grn. of bromide to the oz.,\nuntil the high lights have attained the requisite\ndensity. Another method, which frequently\ngives good results, is, still with the sun in front\nand preferably shining strongly, to give a very\nshort shutter exposure, and develop strongly.\nThis gives brilliant lighting, and dense masses\nof shadow.\nMounting Prints.— For a large collection of\nreceipts for mounting photographs, see\nPastes.\nPrints, to Mount on Glass.— To mount prints\non glass, follow the directions given by J. E.\nDumont; that is, take 4 oz. gelatine and soak\nhalf an hour in cold water, then place in a glass\njar, adding 16 oz. of water; put the jar in a\nlarge dish of warm water and dissolve the gel-\natine. When dissolved, pour into a shallow\ntray. Have your prints rolled on a roller, al-\nbumen side out; take the print by the corners\nand pass rapidly through the gelatine, taking\ngreat care to avoid air bubbles. Hang up with\nclips to dry; when dry, squeeze carefully on\nto the glass. The better the quality of glass\nthe finer the effect.\nGelatine Mountant.—\nGelatine 4 oz.\nWater 16 oz.\nGlycerine 1 oz.\nAlcohol, 90% 5oz.\nNegatives.— Method for Quickly Drying Gela-\ntine Negatives. After the final washing, place\nthe plate in a bath of methylated spirit for\nfour or five minutes. On taking it out flow\ntwo or three times with common methylated\nsulphuric ether. After this the negative will\ndry in a current of air in two or three min-\nutes.\nTo Take Gelatine off Disused Negatives.—\nPlace in a hot bath, in which previously a good\ndose of washing soda and soap has been dis-\nsolved.\nTo Remove Varnish from a Negative.— Warm\n(cautiously) the negative before a fire or over\na spirit lamp; then pour a little methylated\nspirit npon it, and with a tuft of cotton wool\ngently rub the face of the negative; drain and\nrepeat. Then cover with the spirits, drain and\nlet dry.\nTo Prevent Negatives from Frilling.— Soak\nthe plates before development in a saturated\nsolution of Epsom salts. Then wash, and de-\nvelop as usual; or use water containing a little\nEpsom salts, )4 oz. or more to a pail of water.\nTo Fill Cracks in a Varnished Negative.— Pro-\ncure some finely powdered lampblack and\ngently rub with a circular motion all over the\nnegative, using the finger or a soft piece of\nwash leather for the purpose. This will cause\nall the cracks to disappear.\nTo Print from Cracked Negative.— Place the\nprinting frame at the bottom of a narrow box,\nat least 2 ft. deep, and with blackened sides;\nover the negative in the frame put a sheet of\nthin tissue paper. Another way Suspend from\na roasting jack a board upon which a printing\nframe can rest, the roasting jack being in mo-\ntion all the time of printing. Or, in the case\nof a slight crack, move the frame about in the\nhands briskly during the process of printing.\nPaper. Preparation of paper with arrow-\nroot (Monkhoven). —Water, 150 parts; chloride\nsodium, 3 parts; citrate sodium, 3 parts; arrow-\nroot, 3 parts. Stir the airowroot flour and\nthoroughly mix in some cold water; then pour\nwhile constantly stirring into the boiling-\nwater. Coat the paper with the starch mix-\nture by means of a brush. It should not be\nfloated on the silver bath longer than one-half\nto one minute. Fuming in the ammonia box\neight minutes makes the prints more intense\nand brilliant.\nAshman s Durable Paper.— After the paper is\nsensitized, float it back downward for five\nminutes on the following solution Water, 50\nparts; gum arabic, 1)4 parts: hydrochloric\nacid, 1 part citric acid, 1 part tartaric acid, 1\npart. Dry as quickly as possible after re-\nmoval.\nPreparation of Paper with Gelatine (Abney).\n—Water, 240 parts chloride of ammonium, 3 to\n4 parts gelatine, )4 part citrate of sodium, 5\nparts chloride of sodium, 1 .to 1)4 parts.\nAlbumenized Paper, to Give a Matt Surface\nto Prints on.— Mount the print in the ordinary\nway, but be careful to avoid any lumps. Well\nroll, and then sift on finely-ground pumice\npowder. Rub gently with palm of the hand,\nusing circular motion. Examine f rom time to\ntime. Continue operation until the proper sur-\nface is obtained.\nAlbumen Paper, Sensitizing Bath for Albu-\nmenized Paper.— 35 to 60 grn. of silver nitrate\nto the oz. of water add enough carbonate of\nsoda to cause slight turbidity, and filter.\nDurable Sensitized Paper.^Float the albu-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0434.jp2"},"431":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n419\nPhotography.\nmenized paper on a 10 per cent, solution of ni-\ntrate of silver for four minutes, draw it over\nthe glass rod to drain, and then float the back\n■of the sheet for a like period upon a bath com-\nposed of—\nCitrate of potash 1 part.\nWater 30 parts.\nFinally wash in rain water.\nDebenham s Method.— Sensitize by the usual\nnitrate solution, with the addition of 10 drops\nof perchloric acid to each oz. of the sensitizing\nbath.\nAlbumen Paper, Preservative Book for Sen-\nsitized Paper.— Soak thick blotting paper in a\nsaturated solution of bicarbonate of soda, and\nwhen this is dry make a book of it. Keep the\nsensitive paper between the leaves of this book,\nthe sheets being kept in pairs, face to face.\nFuming.— This is the process of subjecting\nready sensitized paper to the fumes of ammo-\nnia. Hang the sheets separated in a box and\nplace a saucer of ammonia in the bottom and\nallow the vapor to act for fifteen minutes.\nReady sensitized paper, is giving way to the\nOmega, Aristotype and other papers.\nPaper Negatives.— At a regular meeting of the\nLondon and Provincial Photographic Associa-\ntion Mr. W. Turner gave the following as his\nmethod of making paper negatives The pic-\nture or drawing to be copied is made translu-\ncent by means of lard diluted with turpentine\n—one part of lard to three parts of turpentine.\nThe mixture was then boiled for three min-\nutes, which he claimed killed the grease, and it\nwas then rubbed over the drawing. When sur-\nface dry the drawing was placed in a printing\nframe with sensitized silver paper, and a nega-\ntive made, which was fixed in an old hypo, bath\nrich in silver, and washed in the usual way.\nThe plain paper was prepared by floating\n.Saxe paper on the following\nSodium chloride 200 grn.\nGelatine 30 grn.\nWater 20 oz.\nDissolve the gelatine and chloride separately\nand mix; float three minutes. When dry, sen-\nsitize by floating one or two minutes on the\nfollowing\nSilver nitrate 1 oz.\nCitric acid 1 drm.\nWater 14 oz.\nHe stated that the paper would keep good\nfor six weeks.\nPastes for Mounting. See Pastes.\nPhoto-Chromos.— Allow the photograph to re-\nmain in water until thoroughly soaked; then\nplace it between blotting paper, and let it re-\nmain until just damp enough to be pliable.\nThen coat the face of the picture with good\nstarch paste and lay face down on the glass.\nCommence in the center of the picture and rub\noutward toward the edges, to dispel all air and\nexcess of paste, care being observed not to get\npaste on the back of the print. While rub-\nbing, keep the paper damp with a sponge.\nWhen dry, lay on a heavy coat of castor oil, and\nafter a time, rub off the excess of oil with a\n-cloth. After standing a day or two, it may be\ncolored. Cover the back with a thin plate of\nglass and bind the edges.\nPhotographing. See Clouds, Frost, Lightning,\nMoonlight, Snow, Sun, etc.\nPinholes, to Prevent.— Pinholes, or minute\ntransparent spots on the negative, are most\nfrequently caused by the presence of minute\nparticles of dust on the film, which, during ex-\nposure, prevent the light getting to the film at\nthose particular spots. To prevent pinholes,\ntherefore, steps must be taken to guard against\ndust. The plates should be wiped over before\nbeing -placed in the slide with a camel hair\nbrush, or, better still, with a piece of velvet\nstretched on a stick. The slide itself should\nalso be dusted out first, while both it and the\ninterior of the camera bellows should be i-ubbed\nlightly over with glycerine, to which any dust\nwhich may be flying about will stick in prefer-\nence to the plate. The slides, too, should be\ncarried in a case which is fairly dust proof.\nPrimuline Process.— Primuline, a product of\nthe action of sulphur on paratoluidine, disco ve-\nered by A. G. Green, dyes cotton, linen, and\nsimilar fabrics without a mordant even better\nthan it does wool or silk. The color fades\nsomewhat rapidly when exposed to light, but\nthe primuline itself is not sufficiently sensitive\nto be available for photographic purposes. If\nthe primuline is treated with dilute nitrous\nacid, it forms diazoprimuline, which has the\npower of forming a variety of coloring matters\nby combination with various phenols and\namines. Diazoprimuline in contact with vege-\ntable and animal fibers is very sensitive to\nlight, and upon exposure is decomposed, and\nloses its power of forming coloring matters.\nIf, therefore, a fabric or surface dyed with\nprimuline and converted into diazoprimuline\nis exposed to light behind a transparency or\nanything similar, and is afterward treated with\na phenol or amine, an image is obtained, the\ncolor of which depends upon the nature of the\ndeveloper, but which is positive from a positive,\nnegative from a negative.\nThe material (cotton, linen, silk, wool, paper,\nwood, gelatine, celluloid, xyloidine, etc.) is\ndyed in a hot solution of primuline, washed,\nand diazotized by immersion in dilute solution\n(0*25 per cent.) of sodium nitrite acidified with\nhydrochloric or some other acid. It is again\nwashed and allowed to dry spontaneously in\nthe dark. The sensitized material, which will\nkeep for some time, is exposed to daylight or\nthe electric light, the time of exposure being\ndetermined by means of some unprotected\nstrips of the same material, which are exposed\nalongside the printing frame. As soon as these\nstrips cease to give any color when touched\nwith a drop of the particular developer that is\ngoing to be used, decomposition is complete in\nv the high lights of the object that is being cop-\nCied. The sensitive material is removed from\nthe frame, and at once, or after some time, is\ndeveloped by immersion in a dilute (about 0*25\nper cent.) solution of a phenol or amine; e g.,\nfor red, an alkaline solution of fi napththol;\nfor maroon, an alkaline solution of (5 napth-\nthol disulphonic acid; for yellow, an alkaline\nsolution of phenol; for orange, an alkaline so-\nlution of resorcinol; for brown, a slightly alka-\nline solution of pyrogallol, or a solution of\nphenylene diamine hydrochloride; for purple,\na solution of a napththylamine hydrochloride;\nfor blue, a slightly acid solution of eikonogen.\nIf a design in different colors is desired, the dif-\nferent developers may be applied with a brush.\nAfter development, which requires two or\nthree minutes, the prints are washed in water\nfor a short time; in the case of the blue and\npurple developers the final washing must be\ndone in a very weak solution of tartaric acid.\nWool and silk require a longer time in exposure\nand development than does cotton or linen,\nand the maroon and blue developers are\nnot suitable for wool or silk. In all the\napplications primuline may be replaced by\nits homologues; for silk debydrothiotolui-\ndine sulphonic acid may be used. Among the\npossible uses of the process may be mentioned\nthe reproduction on linen of architects 1 draw-\nings, etc. A. G. Green, C. F. Cross, and E. J.\nBevan, Eng. Pat. No. 7,453, May 13, 1890, J. C.\nS. 1., ix., 1001-1004. Phot N„ xxxiv., 701, 702, 707,\n708.\nThe Brit. Jour. Phot., xxxvii., 657, 658, recom-\nmends the following proportions for primuline\ndevelopers: Red, /3 naphthol, 40 grn.; caus-\ntic soda or potash, 60 grn.; water, 10 oz. Orange,\nresorcinoi, 30 grn.; watei*, 10 oz.; caustic pot-\nash or soda, 50 grn. Purple, ne.phthylamine,\n60 grn.; hydrochloric acid, 60 minims; water, 10\noz. The following developers are also recom-","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0435.jp2"},"432":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n420\nPhotography.\nmended Ink, black, eikonogen, 60 grn.; water,\n10 oz. Brown tones, pyro., 50 grn.; water, 10 oz.\nAfter washing- in plain water the ground is\ncleared by washing in soap and water. If the\ntransparency printed from is not dense enough\nto allow complete decomposition in the high\nlights, the results are improved by exposing the\nwhole of the back of the print to light for a\nshort time.\nPrinting Processes.— The blue process has been\ntreated under blue paper, but an additional\nformula is given here as well as formulas, for\nblue, violet, red, and green prints.\nBlue Prints.— Float the paper until it lies\nquite flat upon a solution prepared as follows\n1. Water 2 fl. oz.\nRed prussiate of potash 120 gr.\n2. Water.... 2 oz.\nAmmonia citrate of iron 140 gr.\nWhen these two are dissolved, mix them to-\ngether and filter into a clean bottle.\nThe solution should not be exposed to a\nstrong light, and the paper must be floated on\nit in a very subdued light, and in the same\nmanner as paper is floated on a silver solution.\nWhen it no longer curls, but lies flat on the\nsolution, take it by the corners and raise it\nslowly from contact, and hang it up to dry\nin a dark place. When dry, it can be used at\nonce, or may be kept for future use by rolling\nit, prepared surface in, and placing it in a tin\nbox or other receptacle, free from light and\ndampness.\nTo make a print on this paper, place the pre-\npared surface in contact with the negative in a\nprinting frame and expose to sunlight.\nThe time of exposure will vary according to\nthe density of the negative and the intensity of\nthe light. The rule is to allow the light to act\nlong enough for the portions which first turn\nblue to become gray, with a slight metallic\nluster. At this point remove the paper from\nthe frame and place it in a dish of clean water.\nIt now gradually becomes a rich blue\nthroughout, except the parts which should re-\nmain white. Change the water from time to\ntime, until there remains no discoloration in\nthe whites; dry, and the picture requires no\nfurther treatment.\nThe blue color may be totally removed at\nany time by placing the print in ammonia\nwater.\nThis is the standard formula.\nAnother Process for Blue Prints.— Float the\npaper for a minute in a solution of\nFerri cyanide of potash 1 oz.\nWater 5 oz.\nDry it in a dark room, and then expose be-\nneath a negative until the dark shades have\nassumed a deep blue color, then immerse the\nprint in a solution of\nWater 2 oz.\nBichloride mercury 1 grn.\nWash the print, and then immerse it in a hot\nsolution of—\nOxalic acid 4 drm.\nWater 4 oz.\nWash again and dry.\nAnother Process— the Cyanotype.— Float the\npaper on a solution of the sesquichloride of\niron. Dry and expose, afterward wash the\nprints, and then immerse them in a bath of\nferricyanide of potash. The picture will ap-\npear of a blue color in all those places where\nthe sun has acted.\nProcess with Salts of Uranium.— The paper,\nwithout having undergone any preceding\npreparation, except that of having been ex-\ncluded from the light for several days, is float-\ned on a bath of the nitrate of uranium as fol-\nlows:\nNitrate of uranium 2 drm.\nDistilled water 10 drm.\nThe paper is left on the bath for four or five\nminutes, it is then removed, hung up, and dried\nin the dark room. So prepared, it can be kept\nfor a considerable time.\nThe exposure beneath a negative varies from\none minute to several minutes in the rays of\nthe sun, and from a quarter of an hour to an\nhour in diffused light. The image which is thus\nproduced is not very distinct, but comes out in\nstrong contrast when developed as follows\nNitrate of Silver Developer.—\nDistilled or rain water 2 drm.\nNitrate of silver 7 grn.\nAcetic acid a mere trace.\nThe development is very rapid in this solu-\ntion. In about half a minute it is complete.\nAs soon as the picture appears in perfect con-\ntrast, the print is taken out and fixed by im-\nmersion in Avater, in which it is thoroughly\nwashed.\nChloride of Gold Developer.— This is a more\nrapid developer than the preceding. The print\nis fixed in like manner by water, in which it\nmust be well washed, and afterward dried.\nWhen dried by artificial heat, the vigor of the\nprint is increased. Prints that have been de-\nveloped by the solution of nitrate of silver\nmay be immersed in the gold bath, which im-\nproves their tone.\nThe picture may be developed, also, by im-\nmersing the prints in a saturated solution of\nbichloride of mercury and afterward in one of\nnitrate of silver. In this case, however, the-\ntimes of exposure must be increased.\nPictures may be obtained, also, by floating\nthe papers on a mixture of equal quantities of\nnitrate of silver and nitrate of uranium in\nabout six times their weight of water.\nWhen dry, they are exposed beneath a nega-\ntive. In this case the image appears, as in the\npositive printing process, with chloride of sil-\nver, being effected by the decomposition of the\nnitrate of uranium, which, reacting on the ni-\ntrate of silver, decomposes this salt and re-\nduces the silver. These prints require fixing\nin the ordinary bath of hyposulphite of soda,\nand then washing, as usual.\nProcess for Red Pictures.— Float the papers\nfor four minutes in the preceding bath of ni-\ntrate of uranium, drain, and dry. Next ex-\npose beneath a negative for eight or ten min-\nutes, then wash, and immerse in a bath of—\nFerricyanide of potash 30 grn.\nWater 3 oz.\nIn a few minutes the picture will appear of a.\nred color, which is fixed by washing thor-\noughly in water.\nProcess for Green Pictures.— Immerse the*\nred picture, before t is dry, in a solution of—\nSesquichloride of iron 30 grn.\nDistilled water 3 oz.\nThe tone will soon change to green; fix in\nwater, wash, and drs^ before the fire.\nProcess for Violet Pictures.— Float the paper\nfor three or four minutes on a bath of—\nWater 2 oz.\nNitrate of uranium 2 drm.\nChloride of gold 2 grn.\nAfterward take them out and dry. An ex-\nposure of ten or fifteen minutes will cause the\nnecessary reduction; the picture has a beauti-\nful violet color consisting of metallic gold.\nWash and dry. Estabrooke.\nPrints.— Trimming Prints.— There is more art\nin print trimming than at first meets the eye.\nIt is not sufficient merely to cut off the edges\nevenly, so as to include everything there was\non the plate, or to place a cutting shape upon\nit and trim it round. There are two main con-\nsiderations in print trimming. First, that the\nsides of the print are cut true with the hori-\nzontal or vertical lines of the picture. If your\npicture is a sea view, cut the top and bottom of\nthe print parallel with the horizon line. If you","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0436.jp2"},"433":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n421\nPhotography.\nhave no horizon line to go by, take the side of\na house, or anything else in the picture, which\nmust of necessity be vertical. Use this as your\nguide, and cut the sides of your picture paral-\nlel with it. Of course in both cases the other\ntwo sides will be square with the first two\ntreated. Secondly, trim your print down, if it\ncan be improved thereby. In the majority of\ncases the appearance of a picture will be im-\nproved by cutting off a little of the fore-\nground, reducing the amount of sky by half\nan inch or more, or cutting off more or less of\neither or both ends. Get four pieces of white\ncardboard and cover up different portions of\nyour print and see whether you cannot im-\nprove its appearance by excision of superfluous\nparts.\nWashing Prints.— No care can be too great to\ninsure the thorough washing of photographic\nprints, especially silver nrints. If it is possible\nthey should be washed in running water, in\nsuch, a washer as Wood s or Jetfery s patent.\nIn these washers a steady current of water is\ncaused, which has the effect of constantly turn-\ning the prints over and over, and exposing\nthem at all points to its washing action, while\nthe surplus is removed by means of a siphon,\nor other arrangement from the bottom. Hypo,\nwhich has to be removed from the prints en-\ntirely, or fading will result, is heavier than\nwater, and consequently sinks to the bottom,\nbeing taken off with the outflow of the surplus\nwater. Mere soaking is not sufficient, but if a\nconstant flow of water, such as that suggested,\nor a proper apparatus cannot be obtained, one\nof the best methods of removing the fixing\nagent will be to soak the prints alternately in\nhot and cold baths, allowing them to remain,\nsay, five minutes in each and giving them at\nleast half a dozen changes from one to the\nother. This method of washing, however, is\nnot suitable for bromide prints, the gelatine\nsurface of which would be destroyed by hot\nwater.\nTitles on Prints.— To print the name on the\nphotograph, several methods may be adopted.\nThe simplest is to write the title of the subject\non a slip of paper with aniline copying ink, or\nwith ordinary copying ink mixed with gam-\nboge or vermilion. Then slightty dampen the\nsurface of the negative near the bottom right\nor left hand corner in as unobtrusive and unim-\nportant a portion of the picture as possible.\nPress down the paper with the writing upon it.\nLeave for a few minutes and then remove the\npaper, when the writing will be found to have\nadhered to the negative. When printed, the\nname will print out white. Another way is to\nwrite backward on the negative, while another\nand better plan is to write the name in Indian\nink on the surface of the paper before it is\nprinted on. The ink will wash off in the after\noperations and leave the name in white where\nthe surface of the paper has been protected by\nthe ink.\nProofs, to Preserve.— Dip the proof in a solu-\ntion of hyposulphite of soda, 20 gr., dissolved\nin 5 oz. of water for ten minutes, then wash in\nchanging water for two hours.\nBed Pictures. See Photo Printing Processes.\nRetouching Powder.— This powder is prepared\nby mixing together-\nDextrine 2 parts.\nResin (very finely powdered) 1 part.\nIt may be employed both for application to\nnegatives and to albumenized prints. A leather\nstump is the best means of application.\nSemitizing Paper.— For Blue Prints. 1. Red\nprussiate of potash, 5 parts; water, 50 parts.\n2. Ferric oxalate of potassium, 5 parts; water,\n50 parts. Mix the two solutions in the dark,\nand coat the paper with the mixture by means\nof a sponge. See also Blue Prints.\nMonkhoveii s Sensitizing Solution.— Nitrate of\nsilver, 6 parts; nitrate of magnesia, 6 parts;\ndistilled water, 50 parts. Each time, after\nsensitizing a sheet in this solution, 1 drm.\nof a one-to-eight solution of nitrate of\nsilver should be added to the bath for every\n100 square inches of paper sensitized.\nSensitizing Solution for Paper.—\nNitrate of silver 5 drm.\nDistilled water 5 oz.\nNitric acid 2 drops.\nKaolin 1 oz.\nSilk, Photo. Printing on.—l. In the Photograph-\nische Mitarbeiter the following recipe for pre-\nparing silk for printing from is given\nNo. 1.\nTannin 40 grm.\nWater 1,000 c. c.\nNo. 2.\nSalt 40 grm.\nArrowroot 40 grm.\nAcetic acid 150 c. c.\nWater 1,000 c. c.\nNo. 1 is mixed with No. 2, well shaken, and\nfiltered. The older the mixture, the better it\nis for use. In this bath the silk is thoroughly\nimmersed, and allowed to remain for three\nminutes, when it is taken out and hung up to\ndry.\nSensitizing solution is composed of a silver\none to ten, acidified with nitric acid.\nToning Bath.—\nNo. 1.\nChloride of gold 1 grm.\nWater 200 c. c.\nNo. 2.\nSulphocyanide of ammonium 20 grm.\nWater 500 c. c.\nNo. 1, after shaking, is mixed with No. 2. In a\nfew days the mixture will become clear, when\nit is ready for use. It is preferable to dilute\nwith from two to four times the quantity of\nwater. Fixing and washing as usual.\n2. To print on silk prepare the folio wing solu-\ntion:\nBoiling water.... 20 oz.\nChloride of ammonium 100 grs.\nIceland moss 60 grs.\nWhen nearly cold, filter and immerse the silk\nfor fifteen minutes. Sensitize for fifteen min-\nutes in an acid 20 grn. to oz. silver bath, and\nwhen dry stretch the fabric over cardboard.\nPrint deeper than usual and tone in—\nWater 20 oz.\nAcetate of soda 2 drm.\nChloride of gold 3 grn.\nCommon whiting, a few grn. Fix in hypo. 1 to\n20.\nTo Photograph on Silk.— Immerse the silk\nin—\nWater 1 oz.\nGelatine 5 grn.\nChloride of sodium 5 grn.\nHang it up to dry; then float for half a minute\non a 50-grain solution of nitrate of silver dry,\nprint, tone and fix, as usual.\nSilver Baths, to Renovate. See Baths, Silver.\nSilver Nitrate, to Make.— To make nitrate of\nsilver out of pure silver, place the silver in a\nbeaker and pour into it three quarters of a fluid\noz. of strong nitric acid sp. gr. 1*4 for every oz.\nof metal. The beaker is heated till the whole\nof the silver dissolves. The solution is then\npoured into an evaporating basin, and the ex-\ncess of acid driven off by boiling. The opera-\ntions should be conducted in the open air. The\nsalts left may be recrystallized by dissolving in\nthe smallest possible quantity of boiling water\nand allowing it to cool. The crystals of pure\nnitrate of silver will gradually form. The salt\nremaining in the mother liquor can be recov-\nered by evaporation. To prepare chloride of","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0437.jp2"},"434":{"fulltext":"Photograph y\n422\ngold the copper in the coin must first be elimi-\nnated. The gold coin is put into a beaker, and\na mixture of three parts of hydrochloric acid\nand one of nitric acid is poured into it and heat\napplied until the metal is dissolved. The excess\nor acid is then expelled by evaporation. The\nimpure gold chloride, when free from acid, is\ndissolved in boiling water, and a cold saturated\nsolution of protosulphate of iron added, till a\ndark precipitate of pure gold is no longer pro-\nduced. The precipitate of gold must be poured\non a filter and washed by pouring boiling water\nconstantly over it, till the wash water no\nlonger produces a precipitate with a solution\nof barium chloride, proving that the gold is\nfree from the excess of sulphate of iron. The\ngold is again dissolved in nitro-hydrochloric\nacid, the solution evaporated to dryness, the\nlatter part of the operation being carried on\nslowly to prevent spurting. The yellow crys-\ntalline chloride of gold thus prepared should\nbe preserved in a well stoppered bottle or a\nsealed tube, as the salt is very deliquescent.\nSnow Scenes, Exposure for.— After the pho-\ntographer has been working during the bright\ndays of summer, and has probably put away\nhis camera for a month or two, he naturally\ngoes for it when the snow comes down, but the\nexposure will be found to be very puzzling.\nHe knows that the light in winter— perhaps he\nhas made a few experiments— is very dead, and\nthat four or five times the exposure of his\nsummer pictures is the rule. So he startsaway\nand gets poor results. The rough and ready\nrule for photographing snow scenes is to give\nthem the same exposure as would be given to\nthe same view in summer. Really, what one\nhas to do to get the finest effect is to photograph\nthe snow, and leave the uncovered patches to\ntake care of themselves. b»now being white,\nreflects a great deal of light, and therefore the\nexposure must be very short.\nSun, the Position of.— Do not expose when the\nsun is either directly in front of the camera or\ndirectly behind it. If directly in front, if the\nwhole plate escapes being fogged by the sun\nshining into the lens, the result will be an al-\nmost entire absence of detail in the shadows, and\na flat and uninteresting picture. On the other\nhand, if the sun is right behind the camera, no\nshadows will be seen, or rather only the bright-\nly lighted sides of every object will be seen by\nthe lens, and a flat picture, lacking in contrast,\nwill result. If these two extremes are avoided,\npictures may be taken in almost any other di-\nrection with advantage, the shadows serving\nto create contrast, and give rotundity and life\nto the picture.\nBeware of the Sun.— When the sun is bril-\nliantly shining, be careful to keep your slides\nfrom its direct rays. A capital plan is to have\nwhat is known as a poacher s pocket made in\nthe inside of your coat, large enough to carry\na couple of dark slides. They can be carried\nhere right up to the moment of placing them\nin the camera, and should be slipped from the\npocket into a fold of the focusing cloth. This\nshould also be spread right over the camera,\ndark slide and all, while exposure is being\nmade. If these precautions are taken, there\nwill be very little to fear from the light getting\nthrough the slides, unless they leak very badly.\nIf there are any cracks or crannies whatever in\nthe dark slide, the direct rays of a powerful\nsun will find them out.\nTin Types, Formulas for Making.— The plate is\ncoated with a collodion made as follows, but\nit can be bought at photo, dealers ready made\n1. Collodion.— Alcohol and ether, equal parts;\ngun cotton sufficient to make moderately thick\nfilm, say 5 or 6 grn. to the oz.; put the cotton\nin the ether first, when it is well saturated\npour in the alcohol, to which add\nIodide of ammonium. .4 grn. to the oz.\nIodide of cadmium 2 grn. to the oz.\nBromide of cadmium. .1 grn. to the oz.\nBromide of copper 1 grn. to the oz.\nPhotography.\nThere are 8 grn. of salt to the oz. When the\ncollodion has set, the plate is immersed in a\nsilver bath, made by dissolving 50 grn. of\nnitrate of silver in 1 oz. of distilled water, and\nkept there from two to five minutes. It is\nthen put into a plate holder, exposed for\ntwenty-nine seconds in the camera, and de-\nveloped with the following\n2. Developer.—\nWater 64 oz.\nProtosulphate of iron 4 oz.\nAcetic acid 4 oz.\nAlcoholic solution of tannin, 10\ngrn. to the oz 4 oz.\nThe acid and tannin solutions should be ad-\nded after iron has been dissolved. The devel-\noper has to be flowed over the plate with one\nsweep. The picture is fixed by putting the\nplate into—\nCyanide of potassium 2 oz.\nWater 64 oz.\nThen washed and dried.\nToning Baths.— The treatment of the prints is\nsometimes followed by passing them into a di-\nlute solution of sodium acetate or ordinary com-\nmon salt, about 1 percent., such as here shown,\nand stirring them about for five minutes, when\nit will be seen they have assumed a brick red\ncolor, the object of which is threefold: First,,\nthe fibers become charged with a substance\nwhich acts as a chlorine absorbent, a necessary\nproperty to be mentioned further on. Second-\nly, a definite color is insured to start with,,\nthus obviating the possibility of mistaking\nfresh prints in the toning bath for those which\nhave become parple by reason of the deposited\ngold, an important consideration when dealing\nwith fumed paper. Thirdly, tne last trace of\nfree nitrate of silver is removed, thereby pre-\nventing a too rapid decomposition of the ton-\ning bath. This applies to all toning baths.\nTheoretically considered, it is proper that\nthe last trace of silver nitrate should be re-\nmoved, but those who are engaged in the\ndaily practice of commercial work do not in-\nsist upon the strict observance of such a rule\nin all cases. An especial exception is permit-\nted and advocated when dealing with prints\nfrom a weak or under exposed negative, this\nclass being found to yield richer tones by not\nwashing any of the free silver out.\nThe plan of soaking prints in a solution of\nsodium acetate was originally recommended, in\nlieu of a washing, by Mr. A. L. Henderson, as long\nago as 1861, the following being an outline of\nthe method suggested by him Slightly over-\nprinted proofs are soaked in a bath composed\nof—\nSodium acetate 240 grn.\nWater 10 oz.\nThe unwashed proofs are moved about in\nthis solution at least ten minutes, in order to\nconvert all the free silver nitrate into acetate\nof silver. After slight rinsing in clean water»\nthe proofs are toned with\nGold terchloride 4 grn.\nSodium acetate 240 grn.\nWater 10 oz.\n1. Chloride of gold 1 grn.\nAcetate of soda 30 grn.\nWater 8 oz.\nThis must not be used till one day after pre-\nparation. It keeps well, »and gives warm, rich\ntones.\n2. Chloride of gold 1 grn.\nBicarbonate of soda 4 grn.\nWater 8 oz.\nThis is ready for immediate use after prepar-\nation, but it will not keep.\n3. Chloride of gold 1 grn.\nPhosphate of soda 20 grn.\nWater 8 oz.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0438.jp2"},"435":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n423\nPhotography.\nThis gives rich tones of a deep purple nature,\nbut must be used soon after preparation.\n4. Gold solution 10 drm.\nAcetate of lime 20 grn.\nChloride of lime 1 grn.\nTepid water 20 oz.\nThe gold solution before mentioned is pre-\npared by neutralizing- as much as is required of\na 1 gr. solution of chloride of gold by shaking-\nit up with a little prepared chalk, then allow-\ning it to settle, and filtering off the clear liquid.\nThis toning bath improves by keeping. To\nuse, add 2 oz. of it to 8 oz. of tepid water,\nwhich will prove sufficient to tone a full-sized\nsheet of paper.\n5. Chloride of gold 15 grn.\nWater 5 oz.\nNeutralize with lime water; make up to 15 oz.\nwith water, and add 2 drm. chloride of calcium.\nThis stock solution will keep for a longtime.\nFor use, dilute 1 oz. with 10 oz. of water.\n6. Platinum tetrachloride, sirupy\nsolution, color of old East India\nsherry 5 min.\nHydrochloric acid 150 min.\nWater 20 oz.\nWash away the free silver thoroughly, warm\nthe toning solution to 70° F., and fix in a 20^\nhypo. bath.\n7. Mr. A. Watt, in the second volume of the\nNews, gives a formula which runs as follows.\nSolution of platinum 30 min.\nHypo 3 gr.\nHydrochloric acid 5 min.\nWater 5 oz.\nThis bath is said to act instantly. Thestrength\nof the platinum solution here given is indefin-\nite, but any of our experimental members can\nsoon ascertain the amount of dilution necessary\nto obtain the most favorable results.\nAlkaline Toning.— Owing to the bleaching ac-\ntion which occurs in toning silver prints with\ngold, which is slightly acid, certain experi-\nments were made, and it was found that\nbleaching increased in proportion to the quan-\ntity of hydrochloric acid added. Now, in the\naction of toning chlorine is disengaged, and in\norder to render this powerful bleaching agent\ninert it has been proposed to introduce a sub-\nstance capable of combining with it, and thus,\nin absorbing it, prevent undue loss of vigor.\nTo obtain this a slightly alkaline toning bath\nbecame a necessity.\n8. Sodium carbonate (Na 2 H Co 3 5 gr.\nAuric terchloride (AuCl 3 1 gr.\nWater 10 oz.\nInstead of the dry bicarbonate we will use a\nsaturated solution. In this, as well as the fol-\nlowing formulas, 3 prints of the same subject\nshould be toned, viz., ordinary, fumed and\npreserved.\n9. Sesquichloride of gold 15 gr.\nPhosphate of soda 300 gr.\nDistilled water 1M pt.\nAnd in the same communication it is men-\ntioned that 180 grn. of borax may be substitu-\nted for the phosphate with a like result. There-\nfore it will be seen that a borax toning bath is\nnot of recent discovery, although it does not\nappear to have been quoted in many formu-\nlae for at least a dozen years after its publica-\ntion.\n10. Gold terchloride 1 grn.\nSodium acetate 10 grn.\nSedium chloride 10 grn.\nHot water 20 oz.\nMix twenty-four hours before use. Neutral-\nize with chalk or whitening (carbonate of lime).\n11. Ready Sensitized Paper, Bath for.—\n1. Water 1 liter.\nChloride of gold 1 grm.\n2. Water ...1 liter.\nBorax 10 grm.\nTungstate of soda 40 grm.\n12 Schwier s Borax Toning Bath.—\nChloride of gold solution, 1:50... 3 c. c.\nBorax solution, 1 to 10 100 c. c.\nWater, distilled 100 c. c.\nReady at once.\n13. E. L. Wilson s Toning Bath.—\nWater 16 fl. oz.\nAcetate sodium 30 grn.\nChloride sodium 30 grn.\nChloride gold 2 grn.\nNitrate uranium 2 grn.\nThe gold and uranium, previously dissolved in\na little water, must be neutralized with suffi-\ncient bicarbonate soda. Add gold to renew as\nrequired.\n14. Terchloride of gold, 1% solution. 1 part.\nHyperchloride of lime (white\npowder) 3 parts.\nDistilled water 1,000 parts.\nThe action is complete in ten to fifteen\nminutes, when the prints require washing in\ntwo changes of water to free them from the\nchloride of lime remaining in the fibers previ-\nous to fixing in 1 to 6 of hypo. If the tone\nis satisfactory at the expiration of fifteen\nminutes, the ordinary washing could be pro-\nceeded with.\n15. If not, the proofs are submitted to a\nfinal bath composed of\nGold terchloride 2 parts.\nHypo 200 parts.\nDistilled water. 1,200 parts.\nThe proof ought not to be left in this bath less\nthan 15 minutes, as that is the minimum time\nnecessary to insure the permanency of the pic-\nture; but it may be allowed to remain in it for\nas much longer as is requisite for obtainiug\nthe desired tone.\n16. The uranium and gold toning bath has\nmany friends. The tones are said to be richer,\nand to economize gold, while it is very easy to\nwork. The originator of the formula is un-\nknown, but the following formula is recom-\nmended. After washing away the free silver\ntone in the following mixture:\nNo. 1.\nOne grn. acid solution o£ go! A\nterchloride 1 oz.\nWater 7 oz.\nNeutralize with sufficient of a 20$ solution or\nsodium carb. (Na 2 HCo 3\nNo. 2.\nThree grn. solution of uranium\nnitrate 1 oz.\nWater 7 oz.\nNeutralize as in No. 1. Warm each to 70° F.,\nand mix. The bath is then ready for use. It\ncan be used repeatedly if desired, by acidifying\nwith citric acid and neutralizing before use;\nbut nothing is gained by using it a second\ntime.\nMiscellaneous Toning Baths.— 1. To Obtain\nBlack Tones on Silver Prints.— Scholzig prints\non sensitized albumenized paper under green or\ndark yellow glass, and tones with borax, 00\ngrn.; uranium nitrate, 4 grn.; gold chloride, 3\ngrn.; water, 24 oz. Teape prints under green\nglass, and tones with gold chloride, 1 grn satu-\nrated solution of borax, 1 oz.; water, 6 oz.\n(Phot. N., xxxiv., 623). Slightly washed prints\nabsorb more gold in toning and give more per-\nmanent images than well washed prints, (ibid.,\n639). The effects observed when silver printing\nis carried on under green glass are due to the\nspecific action of the rays transmitted by the\nglass. Signal green absorbs the greater part\nof the rays that act on silver chloride, but\ntransmits rays that act upon silver albuminate\nor silver citrate. When albumenized paper is\nprinted under green glass the image con-","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0439.jp2"},"436":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n424\nPhotography.\nsists almost entirely of altered silver albu-\nminate, while with gelatino-citrochloride\nunder similar conditions the image consists of\naltered silver citrate.— (Abney, Phot, ii., 702-\n704).\n2. Platinum or palladium toning- can be ef-\nfected by means of a slightly acidulated solu-\ntion of platinic or paliadic chloride mixed with\nsodium sulphite.\nThe gradual decomposition of toning baths\ncontaining platinum and silver metals can be\nprevented by the addition of one of the highest\nsalts of the particular metal. For example-\nPlatinum Toning Bath Potassium chloropla-\ntinite, 1*5 part; platinum tetrachloride, 0 05\npart acetic acid, 15 parts water, 1,000 parts.\n3. Osmium Toning Bath.— Ammonium osmi-\nochloride, 1 50 part; potassium osmate, O l\npart acetic acid, 15 parts water, 1,000 parts.\nSimilar baths are used in the case of iridium\ntoning or palladium toning. The quantity of\nthe higher salt present in each case is not suffi-\ncient to injure the prints.— (P. Mercier, B. S.\nF., Phot. [2], vi., 194, 195).\n4.— Acetate and Bicarbonate Bath.—\nAcetate of soda 120 grn.\nBicarbonate of soda 10 grn.\nChloride of gold 4 grn.\nWater 20 oz.\nMake up fully twenty-four hours previously\nto its being required. The bath keeps indefi-\nnitely, and gives rich, warm brown tones. The\nprints for this bath should be printed deep.\nThe toning will be complete when all the red\nhas disappeared from the prints, except in the\nshadows, when examined by reflected light.\n5.— Borax Bath.— For Warm Brown Tones.\nBorax 100 grn.\nWater 10 oz.\nChloride of gold 1 grn.\nWater 10 oz.\nMix. This bath will not keep, and should only\nbe prepared as required, and then thrown\naway. One grn. of gold is sufficient to tone 1\nsheet of paper. The borax bath will suit all the\nready-sensitized papers in the market. Use\npowdered borax, and dissolve it in hot water.\nAfterward make up to 10 oz. Next add 1 grn.\nof chloride of gold, or 1 drm. of gold solution,\nto 10 oz. of water, and then mix the two solu-\ntions.\n6. Gastine s Platinum Toning Bath.\nChloride of platinum. 15 grn.\nChloride of sodium 60 grn.\nBitartrate of soda 18 grn.\nWater 33^ oz.\nFir^t dissolve the platinum and chloride of\nsodium, and bring the solution to the boiling\npoint. Add the bitartrate slowly with con-\nstant stirring. This bath will keep, but is to\nbe diluted ten to twelve times with water for\nuse. Purple black tones are obtained by along\nimmersion; for sepia, tone less.\n7. Platinum Toning Bath.— To make a plati-\nnum toning bath substitute platinum chloride\nfor gold chloride in the acetate of soda bath;\nthus\nPlatinum chloride 1 gr.\nAcetate of soda 30 gr.\nWater 8 oz.\nDip a piece of blue litmus paper into the bath;\nif it turns red it is acid, and a solution of car-\nbonate of soda must be added, drop by drop,\nuntil the blue color returns.\n8. Spaulding s Stock Solution.—\nWater 5 oz.\nGold chloride 5 grn.\nFor use take-\nWater 4 oz.\nSoda bicarbonate 1 grn.\nCommon salt 2 grn.\nStock solution of gold 1 oz.\noz.\ngrn.\ngrn.\noz.\ngrn.\ngr.\ngr.\ngr.\ngr.\noz.\n9. Tungstate of Soda Toning Bath—\n1. Water 16\nBorax 20\nTungstate of soda 75\n2. Water 4\nChloride of gold 4\nMix 8 oz. of No. 1 with 1 oz. of No. 2, and al-\nlow the mixture to stand half an hour before\nusing.\n10. Toning and Fixing in One Bath.— The ope-\nration of toning and fixing is much simplified\nby using the combined bath. The print coming-\nout of the printing frame is left in the bath till\nthe color is arrived at, then washed and dried.\nThe bath is composed of two solutions, and\nwill keep for a long time. Dissolve water, 24\noz.; hyposulphite of soda, 6 oz.; sulphocyanide\nof ammonia, 1 oz.; acetate of soda, V/z oz.; satu-\nrated solution of alum, 2 oz. Fill the bottle\ncontaining the solution with scraps of sensitized\npaper, bad prints that are not fixed, and leave\nit for a day. Then filter, and add the following-\nsolution; Water, 6 oz.; chloride of gold, 15 gr.;\nchloride of ammonium, 30 gr. It is necessary\nto print deep enough, and to leave the prints\nin the bath till, in looking through them, the\ndesired color, brown dark or bluish, is observed.\nUsed for Omega and other paper.\n11. Toning and Fixing in One Bath.—\nChloride of gold 1\nPhosphate of soda .15\nSulphocyanide of ammonium. ..25\nHyposulphite of soda 240\nWater 2\nDissolve the gold separately in a small quan-\ntity of water and add it to the other solution.\n12. Combined Toning and Fixing Bath.—\nIWater 32 oz.\nHypo 8 oz.\nChloride of gold 15 gr.\nNitrate of lead (c. p.) 75 gr.\n13. Bromide Prints, Toning with Platinum.—\nPotassium plan tino-chloride. 7 gr.,\nDistilled water 16 oz.\nHydrochloric acid 1J4 dr.\\\nFor twenty minutes, wash and soak to a 15$\nsolution of copper chloride.— E. Vogel.\n14. Brown Tones on Bromide Paper.— Dr.\nMiethe states that good brown ton„s may be\ngiven to bromide prints by a short treatment\nof the fixed and well washed prints in—\nBichloride of mercury 10 parts.\nCommon salt 10 parts.\njWater 500 parts.\n15. Black Tones on Gelatino-Chloride Paper.\n—The following bath gives very rich dark\ntones\nChloride of gold 5\nNitrate of uranium 5\nBicarbonate of soda 75\nDistilled water 4\n16. Black Tones on Matt Surface Prints.— A\nvery good toning bath for prints on matt sur-\nface paper is\nBorax 90\nNitrate of uranium 4\nGold 3\nWater 24\nThe above quantity of gold is sufficient to\ntone at least three dozen whole plate prints. If\nmore are to be toned the proportions of gold\nand uranium should be increased. The bath\nremains in good condition for a long time, but\nfresh gold must be added occasionally to keep\nthe bath up to strength.\n17. Gelatino-Chloride Paper, Toning and Fix-\ning.—\nSolution No. 1.\nHyposulphite of soda 200 grm.\nAlum 80 grm.\nNitrate of lead (pulverized) 2 grm.\nBoiling water 400 c. c.\ngrn.\ngrn.\ngrn.\noz.\ngrn.\ngrn.\ngrn.\noz.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0440.jp2"},"437":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n425\nPhotography.\nThe solution is allowed to stand for two days;\nthen once more 400 c. c. of boiling water are\nadded, and the solution is filtered. Meantime,\nthe following solution is prepared in a bottle:\nSolution No.*2.\nSulphocyanide of ammonia. 160 grm.\nWater 1,200 c. c.\nSolution No. 1 is mixed with solution No. 2,\nand then added:\nSolution of gold chloride (1%).. .10 to 20 c.c.\nWith this bath the prints take any desired\ntone within three to five minutes.\n18. Toning Bromide Prints.— By M. V. Port-\nman.— The following toning bath answers well,\nalter fixing, if the print is at all green\nSulphocyanide of ammonium .30 grn.\nChloride of gold 1 grn.\nWater 4 oz.\nHalf a minute in this bath will give the print\na rich black tone a longer time will turn the\nprint blue, which answers very well for moon-\nlight effects.\n19. Experiments in Toning Gelatin o- Chloride\nPaper.— From the Photographic News we take\nthe following The use of paper coated with a\ngelatino-citro-chloride emulsion in place of al-\nbumenized paper appears to be becoming daily\nmore common. Successful toning has gener-\nally been the difficulty with such paper, the al-\nkaline baths commonly in use with albumen-\nized having proved unsuitable for toning this\npaper. On the whole the bath that has given\nthe best results is one containing, in addition\nto gold, a small quantity of hypo, and a consid-\nerable quantity of sulphocyanide of ammo-\nnium. Such a bath tones very rapidly, and\ngives most pleasing colors. It appears, more-\nover, to be impossible to over tone the citro-\nchloro-emulsion paper with it in the sense that\nit is possible to over tone prints on albumenized\npaper with the ordinary alkaline bath. That is\nto say, it is impossible to produce a slaty gray\nimage. The result of prolonged toning is\nmerely an image of an engraving black color.\nOf this, however, we shall say more hereafter.\nWe wish first of all to refer to an elaborate\nseries of experiments by Lionel Clark on the\neffects of various toning baths used with the\ngelatino-citrochloride paper.\nThe results of these experiments we have be-\nfore us at the time of writing, and we may at\nonce say that, from the manner in which the\nexperiments have been carried out and in\nwhich the results have been tabulated, Lionel\nClark s work forms a very useful contribution\nto our photographic knowledge, and a contri-\nbution that will become more and more useful,\nthe longer the results of the experiments are\nkept. A number of small prints have been pre-\nEared. Of these several- in most cases, three—\navebeen toned by a certain bath, and each\nprint has been torn in two. One-half has been\ntreated with bichloride of mercury, so as to\nbleach such portion of the image as is of silver,\nand finally the prints— the two halves of each\nbeing brought close together— have been\nmounted in groups, each group containing all\nthe prints toned by a certain formula, with\nfull information tabulated.\nThe only improvement we could suggest in\nthe arrangement is that all the prints should\nhave been from the same negative, or from\non4y three negatives, so that we should have\nprints from the same negatives in every group,\nand should the better be able to compare the\nresults of the toning baths. Probably, however,\nthe indifferent light of the present season of\nthe year made it difficult to get a sufficiency of\nprints from one negative.\nThe following is a description of the toning\nbaths used and of the appearance of the prints.\nWe refer, in the meantime, only to those halves\nthat have not been treated with bichloride of\nmercury.\n1. Gold chloride AuCl 3 1 grn.\nSulphocyanide of potassium 10 grn.\nHyposulphite of soda y= grn.\nWater 2 oz.\nThe prints are of a brilliant purple or violet\ncolor.\n2. G old chloride 1 grn.\nSulphocyanide of potassium 10 grn.\nHyposulphite of soda grn.\nWater 4 oz.\nThere is only one print which is of a brown\ncolor, and in every way inferior to those toned\nwith the first bath.\n3. Gold chloride 1 grn.\nSulphocyanide of potassium 12 grn.\nHyposulphite of soda y% grn.\nWater 2 oz.\nThe prints toned by this bath are, in our\nopinion, the finest of the whole. The tone is a\npurple of the most brilliant and pleasing shade.\n4. Gold chloride 1 gr.\nSulphocyanide of potassium 20 gr.\nHyposulphite of soda 5 gr.\nVi ater 2 oz.\nThere is only one print, but it is from the\nsame negative as one of the No. 3 group. It is\nvery inferior to that in No. 3, the color less\npleasant, and the appearance generally as if\nthe details of the lights had been bleached by\nthe large quantity either of hypo, or of sulpho-\ncyanide of potassium.\n5. Gold chloride 1 gr.\nSulphocyanide of potassium 50 gr.\nHyposulphite of soda y% gr.\nWater 2 oz.\nOpposite to this description of formula there\nare no prints, but the following is written:\nThese prints were completely destroyed, the\nsulphocyanide of potassium (probably) dissolv-\ning off the gelatine.\n6. Gold chloride 1 gr.\nSulphocyanide of potassium 20 gr.\nHypo 5 gr.\nCarbonate of soda 10 gr.\nWater ..2 oz.\nThis, it will be seen, is the same as 4, but that\nthe solution is rendered alkaline with carbon-\nate of soda. The result of the alkalinity cer-\ntainly appears to be good, the color is more\npleasing than that produced by No. 4, and there\nis less appearance of bleaching. It must be\nborne in mind in this connection that the paper\nitself is strongly acid, and that, unless special\nmeans be taken to prevent it, the toning bath\nis sure to be more or less acid.\n7. Gold chloride 1 gr.\nAcetate of soda 30 gr.\nWater 2 oz.\nThe color of the prints toned by this bath is\nnot exceedingly pleasing. It is a brown tend-\ning to purple, but is not very pure or bright.\nThe results show, however, the possibility of\ntoning the gelatino-chloro-citrate paper with\nthe ordinary acetate bath if it be only made\nconcentrated enough.\n8. Gold chloride 1 gr.\nCarbonate of soda 3 gr.\nWater 2 oz.\nVery much the same may be said of the prints\ntoned by this bath as of those toned by No. 7.\nThe color is not very good, nor is the toning\nquite even. This last remark applies to No. 7\nbatch as well as No. 8.\n9. Gold chloride 1 gr.\nPhosphate of soda 20 gr.\nWater 2 oz.\nThe results of this bath can best be described\nas purplish in color. They are decidedly more\npleasing than those of 7 or 8, but are not as\ngood as the best by the sulphocyanide bath.\n10. Gold Chloride 1 grn.\nHyposulphite of soda oz.\nWater 2 oz.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0441.jp2"},"438":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n426\nPhotography.\nThe. result of this bath is a brilliant brown\ncolor, what might indeed, perhaps be best de-\nscribed as a red. Two out of the three prints\nare much too dark, indicating*, perhaps, that\nthis toning bath did not have any tendency to\nreduce the intensity of the image.\nThe general lesson taught by Clark s experi-\nments is that the sulphocyanide bath gives\nbetter results than any other. A certain pro-\nportion of the ingredients— namely, that of bath\n3— gives better results than any other propor-\ntions tried, and about as good as any that could\nbe hoped for. Any of the ordinary alkaline\ntoning baths may be used, but they all give re-\nsults inferior to those got by the sulphocyanide\nbath. The best of the ordinary baths is, how-\never, the phosphate of soda.\nAnd now a word as to those parts of the\nprints which have been treated with bichloride\nof mercury. The thing that strikes us as re-\nmarkable in connection with them is that in\nthem the image has scarcely suffered any re-\nduction of intensity at all. In most cases\nthere has been a disagreeable change of color,\nbut it is almost entirely confined to the whites\nand lighter tints, which are turned to a more\nor less dirty yellow. Even in the case of the\nprints toned by bath No. 10, where the image is\nquite red, it has suffered no appreciable reduc-\ntion of intensity.\nThis would indicate that an unusually large\nproportion of the toned image consists of gold,\nand this idea is confirmed by the fact that to\ntone a sheet of gelatino-chloro-citrate paper\nrequires several times as much gold as to tone\na sheet of albumenized paper. Indeed, we be-\nlieve that, with the emulsion paper, it is pos-\nsible to replace the Avhole of the silver of the\nimage with gold, thereby producing a perma-\nnent print. We have already said that the\nprint may be left for any reasonable length\nof time in the toning bath without the destruc-\ntion of its appearance, and we cannot but sup-\npose that a very long immersion results in a\ncomplete substitution of gold for silver.\n11. Toning Bath for Gelatino-Chloride Emul-\nsion Paper.\nWash the prints in clean water and then tone\nin the following\nA. Distilled water 25 oz.\nAcetate of soda (recrystillized). 1 oz.\nInto which pour a solution of\n1% of chloride of gold 2 oz.\nB. In 10 oz. of distilled water dissolve 2\ndrm. of sulpho-cyanide of ammonia, and\nadd 1 oz. solution of 1% chloride of\ngold.\nFor toning, mix in the proportion of 20 oz. of\nA to 6 of B, if possible the evening before\nusing.\n12. Transparencies on Silver Paper.\nPrint on the back of heavily-silvered paper\nuntil the picture is well printed, viewing the\npaner by transmitted light.\nTone and fix, make the paper translucent,\nwhen dry, with—\nPoppy oil.... }4 oz.\nBalsam fir oz.\nSpirits of turpentine 34 oz.\nTrays, to Make.— Use wood, and smear over\nwith 4 parts resin, 1 part gutta percha and a\nlittle boiled oil, melted together and applied\nhot to the perfectly dry wood. Do not use zinc.\nTrays and Graduates, to Clean.— Wash with\nnitric acid and use a rag.\nSilver Wastes, to Recover. 1. From Nitrate\nBath. 1. Add solution of caustic potash or\nlime, as long as there is a brown precipitate.\nAllow it to settle, pour off the liquid and col-\nlect silver oxide for reduction; vide III. beloAv.\n2. For 1 lb. of silver add 1 oz. sulphuric acid\nand }4 lb. zinc and allow it to stand two days.\nPrecipitate as a chloride, wash 8 or 10 times by\ndecantation, and dissolve gradually in nitric\nacid. Test the complete washing by hydro-\nchloric acid. Wash with water till zinc nitrate\nis removed. If zinc clings to silver, wash with\nhydrochloric acid.\n3. Suspend a sheet of copper in bath for two\nor three days.\n4. Acidify as nitric acid, precipitate as silver\nchloride by sodium chloride or hydrochloric\nacid and reduce as III.\n5. Immerse in bath 2 strips of copper attached\nto a Daniell s battery. Silver deposited on the\ncopper as in No. 3.\n6. Add sodium bicarbonate or hydrate. Re-\nduce as in III. below, or, if pure enough, dis-\nsolve precipitate at once in nitric acid.\n7. Concentrate bath made alkaline by sodium\ncarbonate and add aqueous solution of oxalic\nacid neutralized with sodium carbonate. Filter,\ndry and fuse with equal weight of sodium bi-\ncarbonate.\n8. Deposit either with or without a battery\non iron. Fuse with potassium nitrate and\nsodium carbonate.\nII. Hyposulphite Bath.— 1. Precipitate as sil-\nver sulphide by potassium sulphide. Reduce\nas III. or dissolve in nitric acid.\n2. Precipitate with hydrosulphuric acid, and\nreduce as III.\n3. Decompose hypo, by waste nitrosulphuric\nacid from manufacture of gun cotton for col-\nlodion. Have silver sulphide and sulphur with\nsodium nitrate and sulphate in solution. Sus-\npend zinc in the solution, then boil two or\nthree hours; wash on filter, dry, fuse with\nborax and sodium, carbonate.\n4. Suspend sheet copper in the solution.\n5. Add hydrochloric acid, which sets free\nsulphur and precipitates silver chloride. Ox-\nidize the sulphur by aqua regia and reduce\nsilver chloride as in III.\n6. Add sodium hypochlorite to the alkaline\nsolution. Wash, precipitate and fuse with\nmixed carbonates. This gives no fumes of sul-\nphur. Sodium bisulphate and chlorides are\nby-products.\nIII. Reduction of Silver Chloride, Oxide or Sul-\nphide.— 1. Mix with its weight of colophony.\nHeat moderately in a crucible till greenish-\nblue flame ceases, then suddenly increase the\nheat, when a button of the metal is obtained.\n2. Melt with alkaline carbonates enough to\ncover surface from air; then mix with 75$ chalk\nand 4$ charcoal, and heat.\n3. Ignite with niter on red hot plate, care-\nfully, and in small quantities to avoid explo-\nsions, run down to a bead with sodium carbon-\nate and borax.\n4. If a chloride, i-educe to an oxide by boiling\nwith strong potash, then reduce by glucose; or\nboil the chloride with glucose and sodium car-\nbonate.\n5. Add silver chloride dissolved in ammonia\nto a boiling solution of 1 part glucose and 3\nparts sodium carbonate in 40$ of water, keep-\ning up the boiling all the time.\n6. Add to silver chloride sodium trydrace in\nsolution and grape sugar, and expose to sun-\nlight in an open dish with occasional stirring.\nReduce to dark brown oxide of silver soluble\nin nitric acid.\n7. Mix with five times its weight of sodium\ncarbonate. Fill a Hessian crucible half full\nand sprinkle sodium chloride over the top.\nHeat slowly in anthracite fire. After half an\nhour increase the heat until the crucible is\nwhite hot. When complete fusion has taken\nplace, allow to cool and break out the button\nof silver.\n8. Fuse with 2 parts carbonate sodium and\npotassium mixed.\n9. Add pure zinc and dilute sulphuric acid\nand let it stand two days. Wash silver off with\nwater acidulated with sulphuric acid to re-\nmove all zinc; finally fuse to a button.\n10. Mix one half its weight dry sodium car-\nbonate and one quarter its weight of dry clean\nsand and ignite.\nIV. a. Gold Wastes, Recovered.— 1. Make\nj","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0442.jp2"},"439":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n427\nPickle.\njust acid with hydrochloric acid, add solution\ncontaining- 2 oz. pyrogallic acid, let it stand\ntwenty-four hours; filter, dissolve in aqua\nregia, and product, after evaporation, will be\nfound better for toning than that precipitated\nby iron.\n2. Acidify toning bath, and add sulphate of\niron, 2 grm., to 1 grm. chloride of gold.\nh. Separated from Silver. 1. Treat button\nobtained by fusing Avaste from hypo, baths,\ntoning and fixing, with dilute nitric acid.\nWash insoluble part with ammonia to remove\nsilver chloride, if present, and dissolve in aqua\nregia.\n2. Digest 20 grm. in flask with 1 fl. drm.\nhydrochloric acid, 15 mm. of nitric acid, and\n2 drm. of water. After fifteen minutes boil,\nadd 2 oz. water; filter. Silver chloride with\norganic matter left undissolved. Reduced as\nIII., above.\nVI Paper Wastes.— 1. Soak 1 paper in strong\nsolution of saltpeter and burn.\n2. Treat with nitric acid, precipitate with\nsodium chloride or potassium hydrate. Then\nput with III., above, for reduction.\nVI. Cyanide Solution.— 1. Dilute with water,\nprecipitate by (2) potassium sulphide, (2) sodi-\num chloride, and reduce as IIT.\n2. Decant bath into iron kettle, warm, add\nferrous sulphate, slowly, till a slight precipi-\ntate of oxide is formed. Make alkaline, and\nadd solution of grape sugar until of a brownish\nyellow color. Allow to settle, siphon off the\nliquid. Wash sediment on filter, and ignite to\nrecover silver.\nVII. Developer.— 1. See II., 3, 4, 5, 6, with\nhypo, bath; 1 and 2 not applicable, for iron\nsulphide would be formed.\n2. Reduced by its own iron, if ferrous sul-\nphate.\nReduction of Photographic Wastes.— The fol-\nlowing recipes are the result of the experiences\nof many. Some of the notes are very import-\nant. If followed closely you may, as other\npeople have done, reduce photographic wastes\nto fg fine.\nPaper Clippings.— Burn the papers to a fine\nash; then mix with V/% its weight of the follow-\ning flux\nBicarbonate of soda. 1 lb.\nPearlash .1 lb.\nCommon salt 4 oz.\nSilver Paper, to Reduce. Burn all your\npapers and preserve the ashes thereof then add\nnitric acid until all the silver is extracted, and\nfilter through muslin cloth. Now add common\nsalt to form silver chloride, and evaporate to\ndryness, and reduce to metallic silver in cruci-\nble by adding 2 parts of sodium carbonate and\na modicum of borax to one of silver chloride.\nMix well and heat gradually at first, and finish\nwith white heat, then wash well until nothing\nbut silver remains. Treat washings with salt,\nevaporate to dryness, and reduce as above in\ncrucible.\nRecovery of Silver from Hypo Bath.— The\nPhotographische Wochenblatt recommends the\nprecipitation of silver from the fixing bath\nwith an old oxalate developer that still con-\ntains enough protoxide for this purpose. The\nprecipitate is in a very fine state of division\nand difficult to filter.\nSilver from Waste Solutions.— One of the\nsimplest methods of recovering silver from\nwaste solutions is the following: First di-\nlute the liquid about one-third with water\n(double this quantity if much gum is pres-\nent), heat the solution to about 180° Fah.,\nand gradually add solution of pure sulphate of\niron (iron sulphate 5 oz., water 1 pt.) until no\nfurther precipitate forms. Decant the liquid\nportion, throw the precipitate on a filter and\nwash it thoroughly with hot water. To the\nwashed precipitate— consisting of finely divided\nmetallic silver— add strong pure nitric acid and\nheat over a water bath until the silver has all\nbeen dissolved. Evaporate to dryness over\nthe water bath (in a porcelain dish, capsule)\nand dissolve the residue in hot water (distilled\nor rain). Filter this solution and concentrate\nit over a water bath, then set it aside to crys-\ntallize. Remove the crystals, concentrate in a\nsimilar manner the mother liquid and obtain\nanother crop of crystals. These crystals (of\nnitrate of silver) are pure enough for ordin-\nary purposes, but if required to be used for\nphotographic purposes they should b^ redis-\nsolved in water and recrystallized. Where the\nliquid containing the silver contains also much\ninsoluble organic matter, it is sometimes pref-\nerable to separate the silver by evaporating the\nliquid to dryness and fusing the residue with\nan equal quantity of borax glass in a blacklead\ncrucible.\nWaxing Solution.— For carbon prints, or for\nremoving collodion films.— Beeswax, 40 grn.;\nbenzole (rectified), 8oz.\nPhylloxera, to Destroy. —Numberless-\nremedies have been suggested and tried\nsulphur, carbon bisulphide, coal-tar, lime, soap,\ncaustic soda, and many others. The following-\nare among the best receipts See the Scientific\nAmerican Supplement, Nos. 167, 205, 464, 471, 478.\n1. Try sulpho-carbonate of potassium and\nsand.\n2. London purple, a by-product in the manu-\nfacture of rosaniline, mixed with water.\n3. Forty-five lb. sodium phosphate; 15 lb.\nammonium phosphate 60 lb. ammonium\nchloride; 45 lb. potassium sulphate; 75 lb. of\nsoda 2,800 lbs. iron sulphate 90 lb. flowers of\nsulphur. Mix with the soil.\n4. Mix 45 parts nitrobenzol 75 parts sulphur-\nic acid 1,400 parts water. To kill the eggs,\nmake a paste of 4 oz. benzol, 8 lb. lime, and\n360 lb. of earth. See Insecticides.\nPianos, Finishing the Case of.— The\npolish finishing of piano cases requires experi-\nence to assure success. The cases are first\nsmoothed with a planing- machine or hand\nplanes, and then are scraped and smoothly sand-\npapered. They are then stained, and a filler— a\nrosewood paste for instance—is carefully rubbed\nin, to completely fill the pores of the wood. A\nrubbing coat of varnish is then applied, this coat\nreally being four or five coats applied four or\nfive days apart. When thoroughly dry this rub-\nbing- coat is rubbed down perfectly smooth\nwith ground pumice, felt rubbers and water.\nThen a flowing or finishing coat of varnish is\nskilfully applied, and when dry it is fine rubbed\nand rottenstoned, using water and the palms of\nthe hands in this operation, which removes all\nscratches and leaves a blight polish, which is\ncompletely finished by rubbing off with oil. In\nfiner classes of work a scraping- coat is applied\nafter the filler is rubbed into the pores, and\nwhen dry this scraping coat (which is really\nfour or five coats of varnish applied four or\nfive days apart) is carefully scraped off by steel\nplate scrapers, a delicate operation, then the\nrubbing coat above named is applied, and later\nthe flowing coat and oil finish. The original\nsmoothing is not done by emery belts, but by\nmachine or hand smoothing planes, scraping\nand sandpapering. It requires about three\nmonths 1 time to polish a piano case, and the\nwork should be intrusted to skillful, experi-\nenced hands.\nPiano Keys, to Bleach. See Bleach-\ning.\nPickle to Remove Scale from Iron\nCaused by Heat.— Use by volume sulphuric\nacid, 1 part; 1 part nitric acid, 2 parts water,\napplied warm. Either the acid or the iron may\nbe heated.\nPickle for Beef.— Pickle to keep beef,,\ntongues and pork. To each gallon of water add\niy lb. salt, y*, lb. sugar, y 2 oz. saltpeter, and y\noz. potash. Let these be boiled together until all\nthe dirt from the sugar rises to the top and j?\nskimmed off. Then throw it into a tub to cool,","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0443.jp2"},"440":{"fulltext":"Pick-me-Up.\n428\nPigments.\nand when cold pour it over the beef or meat, to\nremain the usual time, say 4 or 5 weeks. The\nmeat must be well covered with pickle, and\nshould not be put down for at least 2 days after\nkilling, during which time it should be slightly\nsprinkled with saltpeter, which removes all\nthe surface blood, etc., leaving the meat fresh\nand clean. Some omit boiling the pickle and\nfind it to answer well, though the operation of\nboiling purifies the pickle by throwing off the\ndirt always found in salt and sugar.\nPick-me-Up.- There is no general form-\nula for this. A pick-me-up is simply a tonic\ndraught, somewhat like a liqueur. The follow-\ning is good\nEssence of ginger 10 drops.\nAromatic spirit of ammonia J^ drm.\nTincture of gentian l 1 drm.\nCompound tincture of carda-\nmoms 3 drm.\nSirup oz.\nChloroform water, to 2 oz.\nMix and take as a draught.\nPick-me-up for Dispensing.— To gal. of\nsirup, add ]4 oz. soluble extract of ginger, 1 oz.\ncuracoa essence, 1 drm. sulphate of quinine dis-\nsolved in the essence, 3^ oz. fruit acid solution.\nColor as desired.\nPicric Acid.— Picric Acid, called also Car-\nbazotic Acid or Trinitrophenol. A bright yel-\nlow crystalline body first obtained by the action\nof strong nitric acid upon indigo. It has sub-\nsequently been obtained by the action of the\nsame acid upon silk waste, upon leather clip-\npings, upon crude coal-tar and upon the resin\nof Xanthorrhea hastilis, known as yellow Aus-\ntralian gum. It is now manufactured from\ncrystallized carbolic acid.\nPicture Frames, Composition for.\nSee Compositions.\nPicture Frames, to Gild. See Gild-\ning.\nPictures, Varnisn for. See Var-\nnishes.\nPigments. See also Paints.\nBlacks.— Aniline Black.— Nigrosin, largely\nused in the preparation of inks, etc.\nBlue black is a paste made of ivory black and\nindigo, ground together with water.\nBlack, Bone.— 1. Syn. Animal Charcoal. The\nresiduum of the distillation of bone spirit.\nUse. As a pigment for making blacking as\na material for the moulds of founders for cla-\nrifying and bleaching liquids, and for removing\nlime from sirup in refining sugar. Sold for\nivory black.\n2. iSyn. Paris Black.— Turners 1 bone dust,\nburnt with great care in covered iron crucibles,\nand afterward ground very fine. Use. A\nbeautiful black, works well both in oil and\nwater sold for real ivory black, and for burnt\nlampblack.\n3. Bone Black.— In the preparation of bone\nblack, the bones are first boiled in water to re-\nmove all the adhering grease (which is other-\nwise utilized), or, what is perhaps a better\nmethod, exhausting them of all grease, etc., by\nmeans of bisulphide of carbon. The bones are\nthen thrown into a large retort and subjected\nto destructive distillation. At first there passes\nover a large quantity of a fetid gaseous matter,\naccompanied by a considerable quantity of car-\nbonate of ammonia, and other volatile alkalies,\nformed on the type of ammonia. These gases\nand sublimates are passed through a large\nwasher, which retains the ammonia and other\nsalts accompanying the gas; after which the\nlatter is conducted into the furnace and burned\nbeneath the retort. As the distillatien pro-\nceeds, a quantity of tarry matter and oil comes\nover. After the operation is finished, the resi-\ndue remaining in the retort constitutes the an-\nimal charcoal. The washing apparatus may\nconsist of a large iron tank, half filled with\nwater, and having a tightly fitting cup through\nwhich two pipes pass, one of which— the one\nleading immediately from the retort— passes\ndown below the surface of the water. The\ngas, in its passage from the retort, is thus\ncaused to bubble up through the water, and\nthence it is conveyed by the second pipe into\nthe furnace, where it is burned. The water in\nthe washer may be used several times, or until\nit becomes nearly saturated with the salts it\nshould then be drawn off through faucets ar-\nranged in the side of the tank, and the salts\ncrystallized out by evaporation, dried, and pre-\npared for market. The tar and oily water re-\nmaining in the tank, which are used for the\npreparation of lampblack, may be drawn Off in\nlike manner.\nBrunswick. See Microscopy.\nBlack, Burnt Lamp.— Lampblack heated in\na covered iron crucible until all its greasiness\nis burnt off. Use. As a water color. Paris\nblack is usually sold for it.\nCork Black.— Name given to a black prepared\nby carbonizing fragments of cork.\nHartshorn Black.— This black has been nearly\nreplaced by ivory black. It is prepared by\ncarbonizing the residuum of the distillation of\nhartshorn.\nBlack, Frankfort.— This is obtained by burning\nthe lees of wine from which the tartar has\nbeen washed; its principal use is in making ink.\nBlack, Ivory.— 1. Syn. Cologne Black, Cassel\nBlack. Prep. Put into a crucible, surrounded\nby burning coals, fragments or turnings of\nivory, or of the osseous parts of animals, and\ncover it closely. The ivory or bones, by ex-\nposure to the heat, will be reduced to charcoal.\nWhen no more smoke is seen to pass through\nthe joining of the cover leave the crucible over\nthe fire for half an hour longer, or until it has\ncompletely cooled. There will then be found\nin it a hard carbonaceous matter, which must\nbe pounded and ground on porphyry with\nwater, washed on a filter with warm water\nand dried. Before it is used it must be\nagain subjected to grinding. Remarks.— Black\nfurnished by bones is reddish. That produced\nby ivory is more beautiful. It is brighter than\nblack obtained from peach stones. When mixed\nin a proper dose with white lead, it forms a\nbeautiful pearl gray. Ivory black has a very\ndeep and rich color. The Cologne and Cassel\nblacks are formed from ivory.\n2. Ivory Black.— Ivory black is a beautiful pig-\nment prepared by carbonizing waste fragments\nand turnings of ivory. These are exposed to\na red heat for some hours in crucibles, great\ncare being taken to avoid overheating or burn-\ning. When quite cold the crucibles are opened\nand the contents pulverized, the richest col-\nored fragments being kept apart for the best\nquality. The powder is then levigated on a\nporphyry slab, washed well with hot water on\na filter and dried in an oven. The product is of\na very beautiful velvety black color, superior\neven to that obtained from peach kernels, and\nquite free from the reddish tinge which so\noften characterizes bone black. Ivory black\nis employed by copperplate printers in the\npreparation of their ink. Mixed with white\nlead it affords a rich pearl gray pigment.\nBlack, Japan.— Syn. Bituminous Varnish.\nPrep. Fuse by a gentle heat 12 oz. of amber\nand 2 oz. of asphaltum, then add 2 oz. of black\nrosin and a pt. of boiled- oil; mix well, re-\nmove it from the fire, and when nearly cold,\nadd M pt. spirit of turpentine; mix well to-\ngether. Use. To varnish metals.\nBlack, Lamp.— Prep. I. Suspend over a lamp\na conical funnel of tin plate, having above it\na pipe to convey from the apartment the smoke\nwhich escapes from the lamp. Large mush-\nrooms, of a very black carbonaceous matter,\nand exceedingly light, will be formed at the\nsummit of the cone. This carbon is reduced\nto such a state of division as cannot be given\nto any other matter, by grinding it on a piece","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0444.jp2"},"441":{"fulltext":"Pigments\n429\nPigments.\nof porphyry. This black goes a great way in\nevery kind of painting. It may be renderc d less\noily and drier by calcination in close vessels.\nThe funnel should be united to the pipe,\nwhich conveys off the smoke, by means of wire,\nbecause solder would be melted by the flame of\nthe lamp.\nManganese Black.— Black oxide of manga-\nnese finely powdered.\nNewcastle Black. —This is prepared from coal.\nThe coal is carefully selected, then ground and\nelutriated.\nOporto Black.— This black is prepared from\nwine lees by carbonizing.\nParis Black.— Name given to an imitation of\nivory black; it is made from fine bone chips.\nPeach Stone Black.— Prepared from the kern-\nels of peaches, cherries, etc. It is made like\nivory black.\nKice Black.— 1. This is made by carbonizing\nrice. It is very inferior.\n2. Prepared by burning rice in close vessels.\nThe color is very poor.\nSight Black.— 1. Camphor smoke makes an\nexcellent black, but has the disadvantage of\ncoming off with the least touch or drop of\nrain.\n2. A good and tolerably permanent black is\nmade of 1 part stick lac, 1 of lampblack, and 6\nparts of methylated spirit.\nSoot Black.— This is the soot of fires ground\nand sifted. Very inferior, used extensively for\na whitewash color.\nBlack, Spanish.— Syn. Cork Black. Cork\nburnt in close vessels, and the charcoal ground\nand washed with water. A good color, and\nworks very soft.\nSugar Black.— Sometimes called Jamaica\nblack it is prepared by carbonizing moist\nsugar.\nBlack, Wheat.— From wheat burnt in close\nvessels. Remarks.— A superior black, between\nivory and lampblack; it has a full body and\ndries hard and quickly with oil.\nBlues.— Antimony Blue.— Kraus prepares a\nfine blue, rivaling ultramarine, and capable of\ngiving beautiful green shades (equal to\nSchweinfurth green, and without its arsenical\ncharacter) when mixed with chrome yellow or\nwith zinc chromate, by adding a solution of\nyellow (ferro) cyanide of potassium to one of\nantimony in aqua regia, and filtering through\nground glass, as long as a precipitate forms.\nThis precipitate contains no antimony, the an-\ntimony salt simply facilitating the formation\nof the pigment; mercury salts will also give it.\nThe blue is soluble in hydrochloric acid, which\nsuccessively renders it green and yellow; on\nstanding, the blue color is restored. Alkalies\nimmediately discompose it. In fact it is merely\na variety of Prussian blue.\nAntwerp Blue.— This is a mixture of Prussian\nblue, alumina, magnesia, and zinc oxide, in\nvarious proportions. It is prepared like Prus-\nsian blue, except that the zinc, magnesia, and\nalum are added to the lye of crude potassium\nferrocyanide.\nAzure, Egyptian.— Prep. Carbonate of soda,\n1 lb.; calcined flints. 1% lb.; copper filings, J4\nlb.; all in fine powder Proc. Mix and fuse\nthem together in a crucible for two hours.\nWhen cold, reduce to an impalpable powder.\nRemarks.— This is a most beautiful and per-\nmanent sky blue color. It is used in painting,\nand as a substitute for smalts.\nBerlin Blue.— Take 3 parts alum and 1)4,\nparts sulphate of iron, water, q. s. to dissolve\nthem. Make a solution of yellow prussiate of\npotassium, with a little sulphuric acid added.\nPour this second solution drop by drop into\nthe first. This will form a precipitate which\nshould be washed on a filter and dried.\nBice Blue.— This is a native carbonate of cop-\nper prepared by careful grinding and elutria-\ntion. It is largely adulterated.\nCharcoal Blue.— Vine stalks are triturated\nafter being carbonized with an equal weight of\npearlash; the mixture is then heated until it\nceases to swell. When it is cold it is dissolved\nin water and the excess of alkali is neutralized\nwith sulphuric acid. The liquid now becomes\nblue and a dark precipitate falls down, which\nwhen dried and heated becomes of a brilliant\nblue color,\nBlue, Chemic. -Syn. Saxon Rlue, Liquid\nBlue, Sulphate of Indigo.— 1. Indigo, 1 lb.; oil\nof vitriol, 8 lb. Put the acid into an earthen-\nware pan placed in a tub of water to keep it\ncool, and add the indigo, previously reduced to\nfine powder, in small successive portions, care-\nfully stirring to prevent it heating. When all\nthe indigo has been added cover up the vessel\nand let it stand for four hours, occasionally\nstirring it during the time; lastly dilute it with\nan equal weight of water.\n2. Indigo, 1 oz.; oil of vitriol, 4 oz.; dissolve as\nbefore; the next day add 1 oz. of dry potash,\nlet it stand a day longer, then dilute it with 12\noz. of water.\nUse, in dying greens and blues either without\npreparation or with a mordant of alum and\ntartar.\nBlue, China.— Sy n. Royal Smalts.— Grind to-\ngether oxide of cobalt or zaffre with an equal\nweight of potash and 8 times its weight of feld-\nspar. Then submit the mixture to fusion in a\ncrucible. Use, to paint pottery and as a pig-\nment.\nCobalt or Thenard Blue.— This might replace\nultramarine but for its defect of having a\nviolet hue by artificial light. Its full intensity\nof color is only developed after long exposure\nto the air, when it acquires a slightly green\ntint. The mode of preparing it is as follows:\nRoasted cobalt ore is heated with excess of\ndilute nitric acid, and the solution is evapor-\nated nearly to dryness in a porcelain vessel.\nThe residue is boiled with water and filtered, in\norder to remove the precipitated arseniate.\nInto the filtrate is poured a solution of basic\nphosphate of soda, which produces a precipitate\nof basic phosphate of cobalt. This is washed\nand collected on a filter. While still gelatinous\n1 part of it is thoroughly mixed with 8 parts\nhydrated alumina, recently precipitated from\na solution of potash alum by ammonia. The\nmixture is dried to brittleness and calcined at\na cherry red heat for half an hour in a covered\nclay crucible. The resulting pigment is kept\nin glass jars. It is essential that the alumina\nbe prepared with sufficient excess of ammonia,\nand washed several times with very clear water.\nArseniate of cobalt may replace the phosphate,\nin which case only half the quantity of the\ncobalt salt is needed. It is asserted by Boullai-\nMarillac that by substituting lime for the\nalumina a richer and more velvety blue is pro-\nduced.\nCobalt Blue or Regulus of Cobalt.— Sixty parts\ncobalt ore; 50 parts potash; 25 parts sand; 10\nparts charcoal. Work the same way as for\nregulus of zaffre.\nTo Refine Regulus of Cobalt.— Fifty parts\nregulus of cobalt; 6 parts potash. Refine as\nfor regulus of zaffre; the operation of refining\nmust be repeated until the scoria is of a bright\ncolor and of a slight bluish hue; then spread\nthe purified metal, finely pulverized, half an\ninch thick, on flat pieces of earthenware cov-\nered with Hint; place in a reverberatory fur-\nnace and apply a moderate degree of heat for a\nfew hours.\nBlue, cobalt.— Prep. 1. Dissolve zaffre, 1 lb.\nin lb. of nitric acid, diluted with an equal\nweight of water, by digestion for some hours\nevaporate nearly to dryness, then dissolve in\nwarm water, filter and add a solution of phos-\nphate of soda as long as any precipitate falls\ndown collect this on a filter and wash it with\ncold water, then mix it while still moist with 8\ntimes its weight of freshly precipitate hydrate\nof alumina, also Avell washed and still moist.\nStir them together until dry lastly, expose the\nmixture to a cherry red heat in a crucible, after","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0445.jp2"},"442":{"fulltext":"Pigments.\n430\nPigments.\nwhich cool the mass, and reduce it to a fine\npowder.\n2. Precipitate a solution of nitrate of cobalt\nas above, and proceed as before.\n3. Make a strong- solution of neutral nitrate\nof cobalt, and mix it with pure moist alumina,\nthen dry it and proceed as before.\n4. Precipitate a solution of nitrate of cobalt\nwith ammonia alum, collect the precipitate,\nwash, dry, and heat it to a cherry red as bef ore.\nA beautiful blue pigment, very permanent.\nCceruleum Blue.— This blue, for oil and water\ncolor painting, is introduced by Rowney\nCo. It is entirely soluble in hot hydrochloric\nacid, and the light blue tint of the solution be-\ncomes violet red on diluting with water. The\noriginal color reappears by concentration,\nand the pigment is restored if the solution be\nevaporated to dryness. Nitric acid dissolves\nthe cobalt and leaves a white residue, mostly\ncomposed of stannic acid. The green color\nshows the presence of small proportions of iron\nand nickel. Concentrated sulphuric acid does\nnot dissolve it, but, diluted with 4 volumes of\nwater, produces partial decomposition. Acetic\nacid and caustic potash do not act upon it.\nCceruleum is principally a combination of a tin\noxide with cobalt oxide. Berzelius mentions a\nstannate of cobalt, prepared by adding a solu-\ntion of potash stannate to one of cobalt. The\nbluish precipitate formed becomes light red\nafter washing, and then brown. Calcined at\nwhite heat, its color changes to a light blue.\nThe composition of cceruleum is—\nOxide of tin (stannic acid) 49*66\nOxide of cobalt 18-66\nSulphate of lime and silica 31 68\n100-00\n—Riffault.\nCopper Blue.— A mixture of carbonate of\ncopper and chalk, exposed to the air until it\nassumes the proper color.\nEgyptian Blue.— A very beautiful shade of\nblue is noticeable upon many ancient monu-\nments found in the tombs of Egypt. Analysis\nproves the color to be formed by a combination\nof soda, sand, and lime, with certain propor-\ntions of copper, from which substances the\nEgyptians prepared 3 different products: (1)\nA peculiar red, green, and blue glass; (2) a\nbrilliant enamel (3) the color to which refer-\nence is made, and which was used for painting.\nPeligot has succeeded in reproducing this shade\nof blue by heating together 73 parts silica with\n16 oxide of copper, 8 lime, and 3 soda. If the\ntemperature exceed 800° F. 426^° C.) a value-\nless black product results.\nIndigo.— A product obtained from the indigo\nplant.\nBlue, Iron. Prep. Precipitate a filtered solu-\ntion of protosulphate of iron, with another of\nphosphate of soda. Collect the powder, wash\nand dry it. A lively sky blue.\nBlue (Laundry). See Bluing.\nLeitch s blue, or cyanine blue, is a compound\nof cobalt blue and Prussian blue, and possesses\nproperties which would be expected of a mix-\nture of these two pigments. It has been found\nvery durable under fairly severe exposure to\nlight.\nLime Blue, Mountain Blue —Mix powdered\nlime with a weak solution of copper nitrate so\nthat all the lime is saturated; the precipitate is\nwashed, drained and ground with 10$ of lime,\nand afterward dried.\nManganate Blue. In preparing calcium\nchloride by calcining a mixture of chalk and\nchlorine residues, Kuhlmann found in the fur-\nnaces a slag of bright blue color, consisting of\nmanganate of lime. It resembles ultramarine,\nbut, though not soluble in water, is not dura-\nble Avhen in contact with it.\nBlue, Molybdenum.— Prep. Dissolve sulphur-\nide of molybdenum in nitric acid, then add some\ntin filings and a little muriatic acid. After\ndigestion for some time, pour off the clear and\nevaporate to dryness. Mix the powder thus\nobtained with moist hydrate of alumina, as in\nmaking cobalt blue, and heat it to nearly a dull\nred.\nBlue, Mountain.— Carbonate of copper mixed\nwith earthy matter.\nMountain Blue.— In 9 to 12 parts of boiling\nwater dissolve equal parts of sulphate of cop-\nper and common salt. Dilute this with 45\nparts cold water; filter, and precipitate the\noxide of copper with milk of lime. After\ntwenty-four hours remove the oxide of copper\nwhich has been precipitated, wash thoroughly,\ncut in small cakes, and dry. Put the dry cakes\nin lime paste, let them remain three weeks,\nturning them often with great care. Dilute\nthe lime with water, take out the cakes which\nhave turned blue, wash, dry and grind.\nParis or Turnbull s Blue.— 1. A thorough\nmixture of 2 parts sulphur and 1 part dry soda\ncarbonate is gradually heated in a covered\ncrucible to redness or till fused; a mixture of\nsoda silicate and aluminate is sprinkled in, and\nthe heat is continued for an hour; the ljttle\nfree sulphur present may be washed out by\nwater.\n2. An intimate mixture of 37 parts China\nclay, 15 parts soda sulphate, 22 parts soda car-\nbonate, 18 parts Sulphur and 8 parts charcoal,\nis heated in large crucibles for twenty-four\nto thirty hours; the mass is reheated in cast\niron boxes at a moderate temperature till the\ndesired tint appears, and is finally pulverized,\nwashed and dried.\nPrussian Blue.~S.yn. Berlin Blue, Prussiate\nof Iron, Ferroprussiate of do., Cyanuret of\ndo., Ferrocyanide of do., Percyanide of do.,\nSesquiferrocyanide of do., Cyanure ferroso-\nferrique (Berzelius); EisenblausSures eisen-\noxyd, Berlinerblau (Ger.); Bleu de Prusse,\nPrussiate de Fer (Fr.); Ferri Percyanidum\n(P. L.); do. Cyanur-etum (P. D.); do. ferro-\nsesquicyanidum. Prep. I. Precipitate the\ncrude but clear solution of prussiate of\npotash, blood lye, by a mixed solution of 2 parts\nof alum, and 1 part of green sulphate of iron.\nThe dingy green precipitate that falls gradu-\nally becomes blue by absorption of atmospheric\noxygen, which is promoted by exposure and\nagitation of the liquor. As soon as it has ac-\nquired its full color, the whole must be allowed\nto repose, the clear portion decanted, and the\nsediment repeatedly washed with water,\ndrained, and dried, at first in a stove, but after-\nward on chalk stones.\nII. Partly saturate the free alkali in the\ncrude lye, with dilute sulphuric acid, before\nprecipitation. Very superior.\nIII. Repeatedly digest and wash the pre-\ncipitate obtained by either of the above pro-\ncesses, in very dilute muriatic acid, and then in\npure water; drain and dry. Superior.\nIV. Paris Blue.— Neutralize the solution of\nprussiate of potash above, with dilute sulphuric\nacid, and precipitate with a solution of any per-\nsalt of iron (as the persulphate, nitrate, sesqui-\nchloride, or peracetate); well wash and dry the\nprecipitate. A very rich and intense color.\nV. (Hochstatter.)— Crystallized prussiate of\npotash and green vitriol, of each 6 parts; dis-\nsolve each separately in water, 15 parts; then\nadd oil of vitriol, 1 part; fuming muriatic acid,\n24 parts; agitate well. After some hours, treat\nthe whole with chloride of lime,l part, dissolved\nin water, 80 parts, and strained, observing to\nstop the addition of the latter solution as soon\nas an effervescence from the escape of chlorine\ngas is observed; after standing some hours,\nthoroughly wash the precipitate, and dry it; or,\ninstead of the above, at once wash the precipi-\ntate in dilute nitric acid, till it acquires a deep\nblue color.\nSmalt Blue.— A glass colored with oxide of\ncobalt, and pulverized.\nSmalts.— 32 parts, sand; 32, potash; 10, borax;\n1, blue calx. These smalts, the materials of\nwhich are calcined in the usual manner, when","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0446.jp2"},"443":{"fulltext":"PiffinentSc\n431\nPigments.\nfinely pulverized will produce a fine, rich-look-\ning blue powder.\nSmalts.— Syn. Powder Blue, Smalta, Azu-\nrum.— Prep. I. Roast cobalt ore to drive off the\narsenic, make the residium into a paste with\noil of vitriol, and heat it to redness for an hour;\npowder, dissolve in water, and precipitate the\noxide of iron by carbonate of potash, gradually\nadded, until a rose colored powder begins to fall,\nthen decant the clear, and precipitate by a solu-\ntion of silicate of potash prepared by fusing\ntogether for 5 hours a mixture of 10 parts of\npotash, 15 parts of finely ground flints, and 1\npart of charcoal. The precipitate, after being\ndried, may be fused and powdered. Very fine.\nII. Roasted cobalt ore and potash, of each 1\npart; silicious sand 3 parts; fuse together, cool,\nand powder. Used in painting, to color glass,\nand to get up linen.\nBlue, Soluble.— 7 parts oil of vitriol, place in\na glass vessel, and set this in cold water; add\ngradually 1 part indigo in powder, stirring the\nmixture at each addition with a glass rod.\nCover the vessel for twenty-four hours, then\ndilute with an equal quantity of water.\nStone Blue. Finely powdered indigo mixed\nwith starch paste and made into lumps.\nBlue, Stone. Syn. Fig Blue, Thumb Blue,\nKnob Blue, Crown Blue, Mecklenburg Blue,\nQueen s Blue.— Prep. I. Mix finely powdered in-\ndigo with starch paste until a proper color be\nproduced, then make it into small lumps. II.\nInstead of starch uss whiting and a little weak\nsize. Use. Employed by laundresses to give a\nfaint blue tint to linen.\nUltramarine.— A pigment composed chiefly\nof a costly mineral called lapis lazuli, brought\nfrom China and Persia.\nArtificial Ultramarine.— A pigment contain-\ning sulphide of sodium, obtained by fusing to-\ngether, in a crucible, porcelain clay, sulphur,\nand carbonate of soda. French photographic\npapers are tinted with this villainous alkaline\nsulphide, which is enough of itself to cause the\nfading of any photograph.\nBlue Verditer.— Nitrate of copper mixed with\nchalk.\nAsphaltum.— A fine rich brown pigment.\nSee Asphaltum\nBistre. This water color is prepared from\nwood soot as follows The brightest and dark-\nest soot, from the combustion of beech wood,\npowdered and passed through a silken\nsieve. The powder is stirred in hot water for\n24 hours, and again in another water. The\nliquors are collected and settled. The precipi-\ntate is mixed with gum water, and evaporated\nin a stove room to the consistency of a solid\nextract.\nSepia.— The black liquid contained in the cut-\ntle fish. It consists of carbon, along with\nalbumen, gelatine, and phosphate of lime.\nSienna.— An argillaceous mineral found in\nItaly. By calcination it becomes burnt sienna.\nUmber. A brown mineral found in the is-\nland of Cyprus; it is composed of silica, alum-\nina, and oxide of iron and manganese. When\ncalcined for half an hour at a red heat, the\npigment called burnt umber is produced.\nUmber appears to be a hydrated silicate of\niron and manganese, found native in brown\nlumps, adhesive to the tongue, staining the\nflesh, and falling to powder in water. The im-\npurities are removed by washing, and the\nfloated article, after settling, forms a light\nbrown powder, which is used raw or burnt.\nPowdered umber, or that which has been cal-\ncined too much, reddens or blackens by the\ndehydi-ation of the iron, or the superoxidation\nof the manganese. It is rarely employed alone,\nbut mingles well with other colors and with\nslaked lime.\nVandyke brown is derived from iron, and is\nvery durable. It is prepared by the calcination\nof yellow ochers. The resulting frit is sold in\nlumps, grains, or impalpable powder. A Van-\ndyke brown is also manufactured by calcining\nsulphate of iron several times. The proper\ncolor is arrived at by practice. This latter\nbrown, which is entirely an iron oxide, and of\npurer color than the preceding, is more expen-\nsive. It is often adulterated with the brown\nfrit, a fraud detected by concentrated hot\nacids, which easily dissolve the pure oxide of\niron, and with difficulty the ocher brown. By\nmixing Vandyke brown with red ocher and\nmanganese binoxide, very durable browns are\nobtained, which do not require driers when\nused hot. Other durable browns may be pre-\npared by mixing this pigment with lamp or\nivory black.\nGray Pigments.— Ultramarine Ash.— Prepared\nfrom the lapis lazuli after the richer blue has\nbeen extracted. It is a valuable pale azure\ngray color, varying somewhat in intensity, but\nalways unvarying in permanence.\nUltramarine ash washes much better than\ngenuine ultramarine, and is very useful in ob-\ntaining delicate atmospheric effects.\nGreen Pigments.— Bar yt a Green.— Mix 2 parts\ncaustic soda and 1 of potash chlorate; gradually\nadd 2 parts very finely powdered manganese;\nheat gradually up to dull redness, allow to cool,\nand powder and exhaust with water; filter, cool\nadd a solution of baryta nitrate to the filtrate. A\nviolet colored baryta precipitate forms; this is\ncarefully washed, dried and treated with J^to\n1 part caustic baryta, hydrated and gradually\nheated up to redness, with constant stirring.\nThe cooled mass is powdered and finally washed\nto remove excess of baryta.\nBrighton Green.— Separately dissolve 7 lb.\ncopper sulphate and 3 lb. sugar of lead, each\nin 5 pt. water; mix the solution, stir in 24 lb.\nwhiting and* when the mass is dry grind to\npowder.\nBrunswick Green.— 1. Pour 3 parts saturated\nsolution sal ammoniac over 2 parts of copper fil-\nings,contained in a vessel capable of being closed\nand keep the mixture in a warm place for some\nweeks, when the newly formed is separated\nfrom the inoxidized copper by washing on a\nsieve; it is then washed with water and slowly\ndried in the shade.\n2. A solution of crude carbonate of ammonia\nis added to a mixed solution of alum and blue\nvitriol as long as it affects it; in a short time the\nprecipitate is collected, washed and dried.\n3. Lighter shades are produced by the addi-\ntion of baryta sulphate or alum.\nBremen Green.— This is properly green ver-\nditer, but other preparations are frequently\nsold under the name.\nCasselman s Green.— A fine copper pigment\nfree from arsenic. It consists of basic acetates,\ncombined with more or less water.\nChinese Green (Lo-kao- Vert- Venus.)— A sim-\nple green color used by the Chinese. It is ca-\npable of being prepared from the buckthorn,\nand dyes shades which retain their green tone\nby artificial light and are not very fast. The\ncolor is superseded by the aniline dyes.\nChrome, or Guignet s Green. Fuse together\n3 parts boracic acid and 1 part potash bichro-\nmate at a dull red heat on the hearth of\na flame furnace. This forms a borate of chro-\nmium and potash with evolution of oxygen.\nThe mass is repeatedly washed with boiling\nwater, which causes decomposition and conse-\nquent separation of hydrated chromium oxide\nand a soluble potash borate. The oxide is\nwashed and ground very fine.\nCobalt green is obtained by calcination of a\nmixture of oxides of zinc and cobalt. The first\nstep is to prepare cobalt protoxide free from\nforeign metals. It is dissolved in 3 parts hydro-\nchloric acid, and the solution is evaporated to\ndryness. The residue is dissolved again in 6\nparts water and a stream of sulphureted hy-\ndrogen is passed through the liquor as long as\nprecipitation takes place. The clear liquor, de-\ncanted from the sulphides of the foreign metals,\nis again evaporated to dryness and the residue\nis dissolved in enough water to make 10 parts.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0447.jp2"},"444":{"fulltext":"Pigments.\n432\nPigments.\nThis liquor is precipitated with soda carbonate,\nand if, after washing, the still wet precipitate\nof carbonate of protoxide of cobalt be mixed\nwith zinc white, there is produced a reddish vio-\nlet magma, which, diied and calcined, consti-\ntutes a green mass, the color of which is more\nintense in proportion as the cobalt solution\nhas been greater.\nCopper Green.— Native sub-carbonate of cop-\nper.\nDouglas Green.— Barium chromate is pre-\ncipitated by adding to a solution of barium\nchloride a sufficiency of a soluble chromate to\neffect complete separation to the lemon yel-\nlow chromate is added 20$ of strong sulphuric\nacid, which produces a deep red by the libera-\ntion of chromic acid the mass is then ground,\nand heated to redness, when it becomes green.\nEmerald Green.— Form a paste with 1 part\nverdigris in sufficient boiling water, pass it\nthrough a sieve to remove lumps, and gradu-\nally add it to a boiling solution of 1 part arse-\nnious acid in 10 parts water, the mixture being\nconstantly stirred until the precipitate becomes\na heavy granular powder, when it is filtered\nthrough calico, and dried. Emerald green con-\nsists of aceto-arsenite of copper prepared by\nprecipitation, and is the most durable of all the\ngreens with a copper base. It is an extremely\nvivid color, which is durable under exposure to\nlight, but has a tendency to darken in an im-\npure atmosphere.\nWhere emerald green is required no mix-\nture of blue and yellow will serve as a substi-\ntute. It works rather badly, and must not\nbe mixed with any of the yellows of cadmium.\nGellart s Green.— A mixture of cobalt blue\nand flowers of zinc with some yellow pigment.\nIris Green.— A pigment prepared by grind-\ning the juice of the petals of the blue flag with\nquicklime. It is very fugitive.\nManganese Green. Intimately mix 3 to 4\nparts caustic baryta moistened with water, 2\nparts baryta nitrate, and 2 parts manganese\noxide place in a crucible heated to dull red-\nness, fuse, pour out, pulverize, digest in boil-\ning water, wash in cold water, and dry in an\natmosphere free from carbonic acid.\nMitis green is an arseniate of copper, pre-\npared by dissolving 20 parts potassium arseni-\nate in 100 parts hot water, and mixing this solu-\ntion with another of 20 parts copper sulphate.\nDuring the whole operation the mixture is\nstirred. A pulverulent precipitate of light\ngreen or grass green color is formed, and is\nwashed and dried. By varying the proportions\nseveral tones and hues are produced in the\ncommercial article, these are generally due to\nintroduction of foreign substances. The potas-\nsium arseniate is prepared by boiling arsenious\nacid in concentrated nitric acid, filtering,\nsaturating with potassium carbonate^ and crys-\ntallizing the arseniate.\nMountain Green.— 1. Native green carbonate\nor copper bicarbonate is around to powder,\neither with or without addition of a little or-\npiment or chrome yellow.\n2. Add a solution of carbonate of soda or\npotash to a hot mixed solution of alum and\ncopper sulphate.\nPrussian Green.— A mixture of Prussian blue\nand gamboge.\nSap Green. The juice of buckthorn berries\nis extracted by allowing them to ferment in\nwooden tubs for seven or eight days, and press-\ning and straining a little alum is added to the\njuice, which is evaporated down to a suitable\nconsistence, and run into bladders to dry and\nharden.\nScheele s Green. Dissolve 1 part powdered\nwhite arsenic and 2 parts commercial potash\nin 35 parts boiling water filter, and add the\nsolution gradually, while still warm, to a filtered\nsolution of 2 parts copper sulphate as long as a\npreciptate falls; wash with warm water, and dry.\nSchweinfurth Green.— 1. Dissolve 8 lb. arseni-\nous acid in the least possible quantity of boil-\ning water, and add it to 9 to 10 lb. verdigris\nin water at 120° F. (48^° C), passed through a\nsieve set aside the mixed ingredients till the\nmutual reaction produces the desired shade.\n2. Dissolve 50 lb. copper sulphate and 10 lb.\nlime in 20 gal. good vinegar, and add a boiling\nhot solution of 50 lb. white arsenic as quickly as\npossible stir several times, allow to subside,\ncollect on filter; dry and powder. The super-\nnatant liquid is employed to dissolve the arse-\nnic for the next lot.\nTerra Verte.— Silicate and phosphate of pro-\ntoxide of iron.\nVerdigris is a basic hydrated copper acetate,\ncomposed of variable proportions of bi basic\nand tri basic copper acetates. It is manufac-\ntured in France by oxidizing very thin pieces\nof old sheet copper, heated to 176° F. (80° C.)»\nwith a solution of copper acetate, and then im-\nmersing them in the skins of pressed grapes,\nwhich are in a state of acetic fermentation.\nAfter a time, the copper plates are removed\nfrom the skins, dried in the air, dipped into-\nwater, and again laid in layers of grape skins.\nWhen this has been repeated five to seven times r\nthe verdigris is scraped off, kneaded in\nwooden troughs, and packed in leather bags.\nIts desiccation is completed in the air. It is\nalso prepared by covering copper plates with\nvinegar. It is a pm*e green or bluish green, ac-\ncording to the proportion of sesquibasic acetate\nit contains. It is highly poisonous, and not\ndurable.\nGreen Verditer. An accidental variety of\nblue verditer.\nVienna Green.— A mixture of arsenious acid\nand verdigris.\nViridian, or French Veronese Green, differs\nfrom the above pigment in being a hydrated\ninstead of an anhydrous sesquioxide of chro-\nmium, and in being transparent instead of\nopaque. It is extremely permanent.\nZinc Green.— Zinc oxide, 51b.; cobalt sulphate,\n1 lb. Mix with sufficient water to form a paste,\nand heat to redness, a deep green pigment re-\nsults. With 10 parts zinc oxide, and 1 part co-\nbalt sulphate, a grass green powder is obtained;\nand with 20 parts zinc oxide a light grass green\npigment is produced, capable of being used in-\nstead of arsenic green. This green is perma-\nnent in contact with lime (as in mortar, etc.),\nand has thus an advantage over green made\nfrom. mixtures of chrome yellow and Prussian\nblue.— Eisner.\nOrange Pigments.— Cadmium orange, a vari-\nety of sulphide of cadmium introduced in 1862.\nIt is a very brilliant and lustrous pigment, and\nis much used to replace the Old chrome orange,\nats being not only more permanent, but much\nmore mellow and beautiful in color. It pos-\nsesses a fair amount of transparency, and is\nsimply invaluable for gorgeous sunsets.\nChrome orange consists of basic chromate of\nlead. Like all the chromates of lead, it is marked\nby great power and brilliancy; but also by\nharshness of color, want of permanence, and a\ntendency to oxidize delicate organic pigments..\nIt may for most purposes be effectually super-\nseded by cadimum orange. Chrome orange, by\nreason of its lead base, is discolored by an im-\npure atmosphere.\nOrange Lake.— Take of the best Spanish an-\nnatto, 4 oz.; pearlash, lb.; water, 1 gal.; boil it\nfor one-half hour, strain, precipitate with alum,\n1 lb.; dissolved in 1 gal. water, observing not to\nadd the latter solution when it ceases to pi O-\nduce an effervescence or a precipitate. The\naddition of some solution of tin turns this lake\na lemon yellow; acids redden it.\nPurple.— Purple madder, a lake prepared\nfrom the madder plant, is the only durable\npurple pigment. It is of a maroon purple\ncolor, marked by subdued richness rather\nthan by brilliancy, and possessing great trans-\nparency. It is extremely useful to the water\ncolor painter, as it affords the greatest depth\nof shadow without coldness of hue.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0448.jp2"},"445":{"fulltext":"Pigments.\n433\nPigments.\nCassius Purple.— This is the precipitate which\ntakes place when solutions of gold and tin\nchloride are mixed under proper conditions.\nThe preparation of the purple of a constant\ncomposition is effected by the following pro-\ncess: Gold bichloride is prepared by dissolving\n20 grn. gold in 100 of aqua regia, made with 4\nhydrochloric acid and 1 of nitric acid. The\nsolution is evaporated to dryness in a water\nbath, in order to expel the excess of acid, and\nthe remaining gold chloride is dissolved in 75\ngrn. water. Pure granulated tin is then intro-\nduced into the filtered liquor, which after some\ntime becomes brown and turbid. After stand-\ning several days, all the gold is in the state of\nstannate of protoxide, which is separated\nfrom the remainder of the metallic tin. The\nproduct is collected upon a paper filter, care-\nfully washed and dried at a gentle heat.\nBeds.— Brazil Wood Lake.— (a) Digest 1 lb.\nground Brazil wood in 4 gal. water for twenty-\nfour hours, boil one half hour, and add 114 lb.\nalum dissolved in a little water mix, decant,\nstrain add H lb- tin solution, again mix well\nand filter to the clear liquid cautiously add a\nsolution of soda carbonate while a precipitate\nforms, avoiding excess collect, wash and dry.\nThe shade will vary according as the precipi-\ntate is collected, (b) Add washed and recently\nprecipitated alumina to a strong filtered decoc-\ntion of Brazil wood.\nGerman Carmine.— Cochineal, V4 lb.; water,\n10 6 gal. After boiling five minutes add V/% oz.\nalum. Let the mixture boil five minutes\nlonger, filter and set away in glass vessels for\nthree or four days. Decant, and dry the car-\nmine in a shady place. The remaining liquid\nwill deposit an inferior quality of carmine by\nstanding.\nCarminated Lake.— (a) The cochineal residue\nleft in making carmine is boiled with repeated\nportions of water till exhausted the liquor is\nmixed with that decanted off the carmine, and\nat once filtered some recently precipitated\nalumina is added, and the whole is gently\nheated and well agitated for a short time; as\nsoon as the alumina has absorbed enough color,\nthe mixture is allowed to settle, the clear por-\ntion is decanted, and the lake is collected on a\nfilter, washed and dried. The decanted liquor,\nif still colored, is treated with fresh alumina\ntill exhausted, and thus a lake of second qual-\nity is obtained, (b) To the colored liquor ob-\ntained from the carmine and cochineal, as just\nstated, a solution of alum is added, the filtered\nliquor is precipitated with a solution of potash\ncarbonate, and the lake is collected and treated\nas before. The color is brightened by addition\nof tin solution.\nCarmine.— Boil 1 lb. cochineal and 4 drm.\npotash carbonate in 1)4 gal. water for one quar-\nter hour. Remove from the fire, stir in 8 drm.\npowdered alum, and allow to settle for twenty\nto thirty minutes. Pour the liquid into\nanother vessel, and mix in a strained solution\nof 4 drm. isinglass in 1 pint water; when a skin\nhas formed upon the surface, remove from the\nfire, stir rapidly and allow to settle for one half\nhour, when the deposited carmine is carefully\ncollected drained and dried.\nCarmine.— The finest portion of the coloring\nmatter of cochineal freed as far from possible\nfrom impurities. It is sometimes used in the\npigment style of printing.\nBed Chalk (Clay Iron Ore).— Cobalt pink is a\nmixture of the oxide of this metal with mag-\nnesia. It is durable, and more or less pink ac-\ncording to the proportion of cobalt. It is an\nexpensive pigment, used only for fine paint-\ning. Its preparation consists in making a\npaste of carbonate of magnesia with a concen-\ntrated solution of cobalt nitrate. The paste is\ndried in a stove, and then calcined in a porce-\nlain crucible\nCochineal Lake.— 1. Digest 1 oz. coarsely pow-\ndered cochineal in 2Hj oz. each water and recti-\nfied alcohol for a week filter and precipitate\nby adding a few drops of tin solution every two\nhours, till the whole of the coloring matter is\nthrown down; wash the precipitate in dis-\ntilled water and dry.\n2. Digest powdered cochineal in ammonia\nwater for a week; dilute with a little water\nand add the liquid to a solution of alum as\nlong as any precipitate (lake) falls.\n3. Boil 1 lb. coarsely powdered cochineal in 2\ngal. water for one hour; decant, stx-ain, add so-\nlution of 1 lb. cream of tartar, and precipitate\nwith solution of alum. By adding the alum\nfirst and precipitating the lake with the tartar,\nthe color is slightly changed.\nCrimson Lake is precisely similar to carmine\nin origin, and differs from it in containing a\nlarger quantity of base and a correspondingly\nsmaller amount of coloring matter. It is far\nmore generally useful than carmine, washes\nbetter, and is not so scarlet in hue.\nIndian Red.— 1. Iron sulphate is calcined until\nthe water of crystallization is expelled, then\nroasted by a fierce fire until acid vapors cease to\narise, cooled, washed with water till the latter\nhas no acid reaction, and dried.\n2. Calcine, 11 parts; common salt with 25 parts\ngreen iron sulphate; well wash with water, dry,\nand powder.\n3. The finest Indian red, or crocus, usually\nundergoes a second calcination at a higher\ntemperature.\nMadder Lake.— 1. Tie 2 oz. madder in a cloth,\nbeat it well in 1 pt. water in a stone mortar,\nand repeat the process with about 5 pt fresh\nwater till it ceases to yield color boil the\nmixed liquor in an earthen vessel, pour into a\nlarge basin, and add 1 oz. alum dissolved in 1 pt.\nboiling water; stir well, and gradually pour in\n1]4 oz. strong solution of potash carbonate;\nlet stand until cold, pour off the yellow liquor\nfrom the top, drain, agitate the residue repeat-\nedly in 1 qt. boiling water, decant, drain, and\ndry.\n2. Add a little solution of lead acetate to a de-\ncoction of madder, to throw down the brown\ncoloring matter filter, add solution of tin or\nalum, precipitate with solution of soda or\npotash carbonate, and proceed as before.\n3. Macerate 2 lb. ground madder in 1 gal.\nwater for 10 minutes strain and press quite\ndry repeat a second and third time, and add\nto the mtxed liquors j^ lb. alum dissolved in 3\nqt. water heat in water bath for three to four\nhours, adding water as it evaporates filter\nfirst through flannel, and when cold enough\nthrough paper add solution of soda carbonate\nas long as precipitate falls Avash the latter till\nthe water comes off colorless and dry.\nOrange Red.— Sandix. White lead calcined.\nRed Lead.— Minium. Litharge (oxide of lead)\nroasted in a reverberatory furnace.\nVenetian Red.— Oxide of iron.\nVermilion.— Cinnabar. Protosulphide of\nmercury.\nVermilion.— Take some hot glue water and\na few drops concentrated extract of saffron.\nColor with carmine, to any desired color.\nStained Olass Pigments.— These colors are\nvery difficult to produce in the desired shad--\nand should not be attempted by the amateur.\nThey may be purchased in ail shades, and the\nresults are much more reliable.\nWhite Pigments. Alum White. Powdered\nRoman alum, 21b.; honey, 1 lb.; mix dry, pow-\nder, calcine in a shallow dish to whiteness, cool,\nwash and dry. A beautiful and permanent\nwhite, both in oil and water.\nWhites.— Alum White.— Dry, mix 2 lb. pow-\ndered alum, 1 lb. honey; powder, calcine to\nwhiteness in a shallow dish, cool, wash and dry.\nBaryta White. Natural baryta sulphate;\nbarytes or heavy spar is emploj r ed in the man-\nufacture of a handsome innocuous white color,\nfast and resisting most reagents, but with little\nbody or covering power. This white, fixed\nwith glue size, is largely employed in the man-\nufacture of paper hangings, and for adulter-","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0449.jp2"},"446":{"fulltext":"Pigments.\n434\nPigments.\nating white lead and zinc white. In preparing\nit the whitest lumps are picked out, coarsely\nbroken and heated in reverberatory furnaces\nto disintegrate the substance and produce a\nfiner degree of pulverization. The grinding is\ndone dry, and the resulting fine powder is\nthrown into tanks of water, stirred and let\nstand a little while, when the heavier and\ncoarser particles fall to the bottom. The\nmilky looking supernatant water is decanted\ninto settling basins where the lighter suspended\nmaterial deposits; after another decantation\nof the clear liquor, the pasty white is collected\nand dr^ed in the air or a stove room.\nChinese White.— 1. Mix finely ground zinc\nwh.te into a cream with mucilage of gum traga-\ncanth, grinding with a glass muller.\n2. Take as much as is required of zinc white\nfinely ground, put it on a marble or glass slab,\nmix i into a cream of the required consistence\nby adaing mucilage of gum tragacanth, grind-\ning with a glass muller. For quantity required\nto fill an ordinary sized Chinese white bottle,\nadd to above 10 or 12 drops of thick mucilage of\ngum arabic and 5 or 6 drops of pure glycerine;\ngrind well together and fill bottle by aid of pa-\nlette knife. Make tragacanth mucilage by\nputting a small piece, size of a horse bean, into\n2 oz. of cold water, letting it remain a day or\ntwo until gum swells up and absorbs water,\nthen beat into a pulp. It will easily regrind\nwhen dry with a little fresh medium. As re-\nquired consistence depends much on habit and\npractice, we do not specify any exact propor-\ntions. It is easy to add white or medium to suit\ntaste. The cost when thus made is very\ntrifling.\nConstant White, also called permanent white,\nranks as a white water color pigment second to\nChinese white. It consists of sulphate of bari-\num prepared by a process of precipitation, and\nis one of the most absolutely unchangeable sub-\nstances with which chemists are acquainted.\nLike most pigments which are supereminent\nin respect of permanence, it possesses great\nartistic drawbacks; a fatal lack of body, a very\nunpleasant manner of working and finally a\nhabit of drying several tones higher than when\nwet, and thus subjecting even an experienced\nartist to considerable uncertainty when he uses\nIt in compound tints. Constant white should\nbe carefully tested before use to make sure\nthat the last traces of the sulphuric acid em-\nployed in its manufacture have been washed\naway.\nDerbyshire White.— From chalk or heavy\nspar, by grinding and elutriation.\nWhiting.— Spanish white and Paris white are\npractically the same article in different degrees\nof fineness, all being simply chalk, ground, elu-\ntriated, balled and dried. Grinding mills break\nup the chalk and mix it with water, which is\nconstantly flowing in. On leaving the mills\nthe mixture passes along a series of wooden\ntroughs, where the sand, which has a greater\nspecific gravity than the chalk, is deposited,\nthe chalk passing on into the settling pits. On\nbeing taken from the pits, the whiting is par-\ntially dried on a floor under which hot flues\nrun; then cut up into large rough lumps and\nplaced in racks on cars which run round on\ntramways into an immense oven. The heat\nfrom the flues in this oven is greatly increased\nby an air blast, which also carries oix the moist\nexhalations from the drying whiting; twelve\nhours on the heated floor and twelve in the\noven thoroughly dries the whiting and it is\nready for packing or the putty factory. Paris\nwhite of fine quality is used for finishing par-\nlor walls, adulterating paints, making paper\nheavier and whiter, etc. For this purpose\nwhat is called cliff stone, a better and harder\nquality of chalk, is used. Paris white is made\nmuch on the same principle as whiting, only\nmore carefully washed and more slowly dried.\nWhiting.— The same as prepared chalk, but\nprepared more carelessly, in horse mills.\nWilkinson s White.— Litharge is ground with\nsea water till it ceases to whiten and is then\nwashed and dried.\nZinc White.— 1. Zinc chloride or sulphate is\nprecipitated by means of a soluble sulphide\nsodium, barium and calcium sulphides have\nbeen used— and precautions are taken that no\niron present is precipitated. The precipitate is\ncollected, dried and calcined for some time at\ncherry red heat, with careful stirring. It is\nraked out while hot into vats of cold water,\nthen levigated and dried. It is zinc oxysul-\nphide.— Griffiths.\n2. A white pigment, said to possess excellent\ncovering properties, is prepared by bringing\ntogether barium sulphide and zinc sulphate in\nsolution and subjecting the precipitate which\nensues (a mixture of zinc sulphide and baryta\nsulphate) to the action of superheated steam,\nby which, at white heat, all the zinc sulphide\nwill be converted into zinc oxide.— Meissner.\n3. Crude barium sulphide is lixiviated. The\nsupernatant liquid is drawn off and divided\ninto equal portions. To one, an equivalent of\nzinc chloride is added, and to this again zinc\nsulphate, and afterward another portion of\nbarium sulphide, the result being an intimate\nmixture of 1 equivalent of barium sulphate\nand 2 of zinc sulphide. The precipitates,\ncomposed of zinc and barium, are collected,\npressed to expedite drying, placed in a re-\ntort, and brought to a red heat. While still\nhot, they are drawn into water, preferably\ncold, which, it seems, has the effect of increas-\ning their density and imparting body to the\npaint to be made from them. They are sub-\nsequently washed and ground in water to fine\npowder, or first dried and then ground. By\nincreasing the number of additions of zinc\nsulphate, the quality may be varied. The pig-\nment thus prepared is used in the ordinary\nway.— Orr.\n4. Zinc dust, containing lead, silver, copper,\nand other impurities is allowed to digest in\nleaden vessels filled with a concentrated solu-\ntion of ammonium carbonate in ammonia\nwater.\nZinc White.— Oxide of zinc.\nMineral White. Precipitated carbonate of\nlead.\nNewcastle White. White lead made with\nmolasses vinegar.\nNottingham White.— White lead made with\nalegar. Permanent white is now commonly\nsold for it.\nPearl White.— Fard s Spanish White. Trini-\ntrate of bismuth.\nPermanent White. Artificial sulphate of\nbaryta, prepared by precipitating chloride of\nbarium with dilute sulphuric acid, or a solution\nof Glauber salts. A good fast white unchanged\nby sulphurous fumes. Used to mark jars and\nbottles for containing acids or alkalies, as it is\naffected by very few substances; also to adul-\nterate white lead.\nPermanent White.— Carbonate of baryta.\nSnow White.— Oxide of zine obtained by the\ncombustion of the metallic vapors of zinc in\natmospheric air. The heavy portion is\ncalled zinc white; the light snow white.\nWhite Lead.— Basic carbonate of lead.\nDutch White Lead.— 1. From flake white, 1\ncwt.; chalk, 3 cwt.\n2. Ordinary.— Flake white, 1 cwt.; chalk, 7\ncwt. These form the best white lead in the\nshops.\n2. English White Lead.*— Flake white lowered\nwith chalk; covers badly, and the color is in-\nferior to the preceding.\nFrench White Lead.— From litharge dissolved\nin vinegar and the lead thrown down by a cur-\nrent of carbonic acid gas from coke. Does not\ncover so well as flake white.\nHamburg White.— From flake white, 1 cwt.;\nchalk, 2 cwt. Also sold for best Dutch white\nlead.\nSpanish White.— After picking out the coarser","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0450.jp2"},"447":{"fulltext":"Pigments.\n435\nPigments.\nimpurities, the chalk is ground in a mill and\nformed into rolls, in which shape it is found in\nthe trade. For painting purposes, it is still\nfurther purified by stirring in clear water, al-\nlowing it to settle, and decanting the first\nwater, which is generally yellow and dirty.\nThe washing is repeated, and the chalk is floated\nout into another vessel, after passing through\na silken sieve. After settling, the water is de-\ncanted, and the pasty white residue is formed\ninto cylindrical rolls, 3 to 4 in. long, and 1J^ to\n2 in. diameter. These are allowed to harden\nand dry in the air, and are then ready for paint-\ning, whitewashing ceilings, and for distemper\npainting with size.\nLead Sulphate.— Precipitate the pigment by\nadding diluted sulphuric acid to an acetic or\nnitric acid solution of litharge; wash and dry.\nSulphate of Lead.— From an acetic or nitric\nsolution of litharge precipitated by adding di-\nlute sulphuric acid, and the white powder\nwashed and dried. The clear liquid decanted\nfrom the precipitate is poured on fresh litharge,\nwhen a second solution takes place; this may\nbe repeated for any number of times.\nTo find if white lead has been adultetated by\npermanent white or sulphate of baryta— the\ncommonest adulterant— the admixture may be\nrecognized by boiling a small quantity of it in\na glass test tube with nitric acid diluted with\nan equal measure of water. The white lead\ndissolves, but the baryta remains as a white\nresidue. This should be allowed to settle, the\nclear liquid poured off, and the deposit again\ntreated with nitric acid and then boiled with\nwater.\nYellow Pigments. Brass Color, Brass Pig-\nment, Bronze.— Grind copper filings or the pre-\ncipitated powder of copper, with a little red\nocher, red colored.\n2. Gold colored brass or Dutch leaf i-educed\nto a very fine powder. Yellow or gold colored.\nBefore application these powders are mixed\nup with pale varnish, no more being worked up\nthan is wanted for immediate use. They are\nalso applied for dusting them over any surface,\npreviously covered with varnish, to make them\nadhere.\nCadmium Yellow.— Pass a stream of sul-\nphureted hydrogen through cadmium sul-\nphate. The precipitate is washed and dried.\nPale Cadmium Yellow. There are two varie-\nties of pale cadmium in the market, one a full\nyellow and the other far more lemon in hue;\nand they have very different qualifications in\nrespect of permanence. The first named varie-\nty is quite as permanent as the deep cadmium\nyellow above. The latter, although varying\nconsiderably in durability, according to the\nmethod of manufacture, sooner or later fades\naway under the action of ordinary light.\nYellow Carmine. The first of a series of\nthree lakes prepared by precipitating the col-\noring matter of quercitron bark in combina-\ntion with alumina. It is sometimes sold under\nthe name of yellow madder, and has thus ac-\nquired a kind of presumptive permanence\nwhich is utterly misleading.\nCassel Yellow.— A yellow pigment, the oxy-\nchloride of lead, known also as mineral yellow,\nor Turner s patent yellow.\nYellows.— Chrome yellow.— 1. Add a filtered\nsolution of lead nitrate or acetate to a filtered\nsolution of neutral potash chromate so long as\na precipitate falls collect this, wash with scf t\nwater and dry in security from sulphur taint-\ned air.\n2. Dissolve lead acetate in warm water, and\nadd sufficient sulphuric acid to convert it into\nsulphate decant the clear liquid, wash the re-\nsidue with soft water, and digest with agitation\nin a hot solution of yellow (neutral) potash\nchromate, containing 1 part of this salt for\nevery 3 parts lead sulphate decant the liquid,\nand drain, wash and dry the precipitate.\n3. Half to 2% equivalents (according to color\nrequired) sulphuric or phosphoric acid is added\nto a solution of potash bichromate in water.\nThis mixture is added to a milk of white lead or\nlitharge (very finely divided and suspended in\nwater), the addition being in the form of a thin\nstream, to prevent undue heating. The re-\nquired coloring matter falls.— Werner.\nCologne Yellow.— Sulphate of lime, 60$ lead\nsulphate, lb% lead chromate, 25$.\nPink, Dutch.— Prep. French berries, 1 lb.:\nturmeric, lb.; alum, lb.; water, l}4 gal.\nBoil J^an hour, strain, evaporate to 2 qt., adu\nwhiting, 3 lb., and dry by a gentle heat. Starch\nor white lead is sometimes employed instead of\nwhiting, to give it a body. Golden yellow.\nUsed as a pigment.\nIndian Yellow.— A concretion formed in the\nintestines of the camel.\nKing s Yellow, sometimes termed orpiment,\nis an artificially prepared sesquisuiphide of\narsenic, and usually contains an appreciable\nquantity of free arsenious acid. It is a bright\nyellow pigment, in hue about midway between\naureolin and lemon yellow, and with so many\nbad qualities that it is rapidl y falling into disuse.\nY r ellow Lakes.— 1. Boil 1 lb. Persian berries,\nquercitron bark, or turmeric, and 1 oz. cream of\ntartar in 1 gal. water till reduced to half; strain\nthe decoction, and precipitate by solution of\nalum.\n2. Boil 1 lb. of the dyestuff with i/£ lb. alum in\n1 gal. water, and precipitate by solution of\npotash carbonate.\n3. Boil 4 oz. annatto and 12 oz. pearlash in 1\ngal. wafer for half an hour; strain, precipitate\nby adding 1 lb. alum dissolved in 1 gal. water\ntill it ceases to produce effervescence or a pre-\ncipitate; strain and dry.\nLemon Yellow.— The genuine and only per-\nmanent lemon yellow is a peculiar preparation\nof chromate of barium, It is a very beautiful\nsemi-opaque lemon, inclining to primrose,\nand possessing great purity and clearness of\ncolor, although not very remarkable for in-\ntensity.\nNankin Yellow.— Dry and calcine a mixture\nof lead nitrate, concentrated solution, and\npowdered peat.\nNaples Yellow.— 1. Mix 3 lb. powdered metal-\nlic antimony, 1 lb. oxide of zinc and 2 lb. red\nlead; calcine, grind fine and fuse in a closed\ncrucible; grind the fused mass to fine powder\nand wash well.\n2. Grind 1 part washed antimony with 2 parts\nred lead to a stiff paste with water, and expose\nto red. heat for four to five hours.\nOchers. Native oxides of iron mixed with\nargillaceous and calcareous earths.\nOrpiment. Orpiment (arsenic trisulphide) is\na lemon or orange yellow colored substance,\nfound native in Hungary, the Hartz, and\nother places; the finest samples used by artists\n(golden orpiment) come from Persia. The com-\nmercial article is artificially prepared for use as\na pigment in the following way A mixture of\narsenious acid and sulphur is placed in an iron\nsubliming pot, similar to those used in the prep-\naration of crude white arsenic. The mixture\nis heated until the sublimate, which immediate-\nly forms upon the rings fixed above the pot,\nbegins to melt. The proportions of the two\ningredients used vary largely, the best colors\nbeing probably produced when the mixture\ncontains to of sulphur; for the fighter col-\nors a smaller proportion of sulphur is em-\nployed. Orpiment made in this manner con-\nsists of a mechanical mixture of arsenic\nsulphide and oxide. The native sulphide is\npreferred to the artificial by artists and dyers,\nby reason of its richer color.\nPatent Yellow. Litharge, 320 lb.; common\nsalt, 80 lb.; grind, with water. Keep this mix-\nture for some time in a moderate heat. Add\nwater to supply loss from evaporation. Wash\nout the carbonate of soda heat what remains\nuntil it assumes a fine yellow color.\nQueen s Yellow.— Turpith mineral, or pur\nsulphate of mercury.","height":"4329","width":"2674","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0451.jp2"},"448":{"fulltext":"Pigments.\n436\nPitch.\nthink the editor is slightly mistaken, the pill\nbeing- really cathartic.\nCholera Pills.— A writer in El Pabellon Me-\ndico maintains that opium is as successful in\ncholera as quinine is in ague, and that t should\nbe given in doses proportioned to the gravity\nof the case. He therefore has recourse to full\ndoses of opium frequently repeated.\nThe following formula for cholera pills is\nthat of M. Bourgone\nTannate of quinia 1 grin.\nPowdered opium 5 centgr.\nEssence aniseed 2 drp.\nSimple sirup, to make 10 pills.\nwhich may be taken in the course of one or\ntwo hours.\nPills, Diuretic —Prep. (Thomson.)— A. Pow-\ndered digitalis, 12 grn.; calomel and opium, of\neach, 4 grn.; confection of roses, q. s. for 12 pills.\nB. Mercurial pill, 1 drm.; powdered squills, 1\nscr.; confection of roses, q. s. for 20 pills. Dose,\n1 of either of the above twice a day in dropsy.\nPodophyllin Pills. (Castor Oil Pills.)—\nResin podophy Hi 3 grn.\nExtr. hyoscyami 3 grn.\nSaponis 4V£ grn.\nSyrupi 6 drop.\nM. Make 12 pills.\nPills, to Silver.— Pills are gilded and silvered\nby rolling them between the fingers slightly\nmoistened with mucilage, and then shaking\nthem up in a small gallipot covered with a\npiece of paper, along with a little gold or silver\nleaf, or a little powdered gold or silver.\nSulphur Pills.—\nPotassii sulphureti 1 drm.\nPulveris jalapse 1 drm.\nSaponis 1 drm.\nExtr. taraxaci q. s.\nMake 120 pills.\nPink Pigments, See Pigments. (Bed).\nPin Wheels. See Pyrotechny.\nPipe Clay.— A natural deposit of an unc-\ntuous clay, which burns white.\nPipes.— The capacity of pipes is as the\nsquare of their diameters. If you double the\ndiameter of a pipe, you increase its capacity\nfour times.\nPipes, Cements for. See Cements.\nPipes, New Method of Testing Large.\nThe usual practice has been to close the ends\nby caps and then force in water until the pipe\nwas completed filled; but with large pipes, very\nstrong caps were required, and there was a\nwaste of time and of water, thus largely in-\ncreasing the expense. The new plan is simply\nto place within the pipe a core, of nearly as\ngreat a diameter as the pipe itself, and then\nforce in water enough merely to fill the space\nbetween the two.\nPirsch-Baudoin s Alloy. See Alloys,\nPistachio for Dispensing.— To gal-\nsirup add y% oz. extract pistachio, J4 oz. essence\nbitter almond. Condensed milk should be\nadded for dispensing.\nPitch, Brewers Light Yellow.— Pine\npitch, 150 parts; add 1}4 to 9 lb. of caustic soda\nlye of 10° B. Melt in an open iron boiler, when\nbubbles cease to form, pour the pitch into\nmoulds.\nPitch, Brewers .-^rown.-\n1. Pine pitch 120 lb.\nRed transparent rosin 102 lb.\nRectified heavy rosin oil. 12 lb.\n2. Pine pitch 37^ lb.\nRed transparent rosin 70 lb.\nRectified heavy rosin 6 lb.\n3. Pine pitch 44 lb.\nBrown rosin 176 lb.\nRectified heavy rosin 11 lb.\nRealgar.— Realgar (arsenic disulphide) is a\ndeep orange red substance, soluble in water,\nand highly volatile and poisonous. It is found\nnative in some volcanic districts, especially in\nthe neighborhood of Naples, but the commer-\ncial article is made by distilling in earthenware\nretorts, arsenical pyrites, or a mixture of sul-\nphur and arsenic, or of orpiment and sulphur,\nor of arsenious acid, sulphur, and charcoal; it\nhas not tne brilliant color of the native min-\neral, and is much more poisonous. On a large\nscale, the manufacture is carried on in the fol-\nlowing way: The ingredients are mixed in\nsuch proportions that the mixture shall con-\ntain 15 per cent, arsenic and 26 to 28 per cent,\nsulphur, in order to make allowence for the\nvolatilization of a portion of the latter. The\nmixture is then placed in earthenware retorts,\nwhich are charged every twelve hours with\nabout 60 lb.; this quantity should fill them\nfull. These are gradually heated to red-\nness for eight to twelve hours, during\nwhich time the realgar distills off, and\nis collected in earthen receivers, similar to\nthe retorts, but perforated with small holes\nto permit the escape of these gases. After\nthe operation, the receivers are emptied\nand the crude product is remelted. This is\nperformed in cast iron pots, the contents being-\nwell agitated, and the slag carefully removed.\nThe requisite amount of sulphur or arsenic is\nadded, according to the color of the mixture,\nor a proper quantity of realgar containing an\nexcess of the required constituent, and the\nmass is again stirred. When, on cooling, it ex-\nhibits the correct color and compactness, it is\nrun off into conical moulds of sheet iron,\ncooled, and broken up; it is sometimes refined\nby resublimation.\nBr. Pierce s Golden Medical Discov-\nery.— A $1 bottle holds 220 grn. of a brownish\ncolored clear liquid, consisting of 15 grn. pure\nhoney,- 1 grn. extract of poisonous or acrid let-\ntuce (bot.herba lactucwvirosce),2gvn. laudanum,\n100 grn. dilute alcohol (64$), tasting like fusel oil\nand wood spirit, with 105 grn. of water.— Hagar.\nPills.— The pill form has many advantages\nfor the administration of medicines, and is de-\nservedly popular. There are many substances\nthe taste of which can in no other way be so\nreadily disguised, and, when the pill mass is\nproperly prepared, there is no other manner in\nwhich accurcy of dose can be better secured.\nIf the substance to be made into pills be a solid\nextract, add a few drops of water, and rub it\nto the proper consistence; if it be a resin, add\nalcohol; if it be a soft or liquid substance, rub\nup with some inert substance, as crumb of\nbread, or wheat flour, or starch, or pulverized\ngum arabic; if it be a powder, mix with some\nsoft substance, as confection, soap, or sirup, or\nmucilage of gum arabic. The materials must\nbe mixed thoroughly and rubbed into a uni-\nform mass, and then rolled with a spatula or\ncase knife, into a cylinder of equal size\nthroughout. This is then to be divided equally\ninto the number of pills required, each of\nwhich is rolled into spherical form between the\nthumb and finger. If the number of pills is\nlarge, a mortar or slab should be used for mix-\ning the ingredients, and a pill machine for\nmaking the pills.\nThe most popular form of pill is the sugar\nor gelatine coated. In this manner all taste\nof the ingredients which are used can be en-\ntirely disguised.\nBrandreWs Pills, says Dr. Hagar, consist of\ngamboge (gummi resince guttce), podophyllin,\ninspissated juice of Phytolacca, saffron adulter-\nated with yellqw root, pulverized cloves and\noil of peppermint. The editor states in a foot\nnote that, according to the assertion of two\nAmerican druggists and one merchant, gam-\nboge is present in Brandreth s pills, but that\nthe action of the pills does not correspond to\nthis constituent, in which latter assertion we","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0452.jp2"},"449":{"fulltext":"Pitch.\n437\nPlaster.\nPitch, Burgundy.— 1. Impure resin pre-\npared from the turpentine of the Norway\nspruce fir.\n2. Imitation of .—Melt common resin with lin-\nseed oil and color the mass with annatto or palm\noil.\n3. Melt 100 lb. good yellow resin with linseed\noii. 1 gal.; palm oil, bright, q. s. to color. The\nmixture is allowed to partially cool, when it is\npulled with the hands. It is usually sold in\nbladders.\nPitch, Canada.— Pitch from the hemlock\nspruce fir.\nPitch.— A dry bitumen distilled; prepared\nfrom liquid pitch.\nChasing; Pitch.— Use a mixture of 1 part\nbeeswax with two parts rosin, with sufficient\nsweet oil to soften the composition to fancy.\nPitchers.— Term used in keramics, applied\nto baked ware finely pulverized.\nPlants, Alimentary Solution for.\nPotassium nitrate 10 g*rm.\nCalcium carbonate 5 grm.\nSodium chlorate 5 grm.\nCalcium phosphate 5 grm.\nSodium silicate 5 grm.\nFerrous sulphate 1*5 grm.\nWater 100 lit.\nPlants, to Preserve the Natural Col-\nors of.— A recent improved receipt for pre-\nserving plants with their natural colors is to\ndissolve 1 pt. salicylic acid in 600 parts alcohol,\nheat the solution up to boiling point in an\nevaporating vessel and draw the plants slowly\nthrough it. Shake them to get rid of any\nsuperfluous moisture and then dry between\nsheets of blotting paper under pr-essure in the\nordinary manner. Too prolonged immersion\ndiscolors violet flowers, and in all cases the\nblotting paper must be frequently renewed.\nThe novelty appears to be the salicylic acid.—\nArt Amateur.\nPlaster of Paris.— This very useful mate-\nrial is made by calcining calcium, sulphate\n(gypsum) at a temperature of 500° F., by which\nall the water of crystallization is expelled. It is\nof the greatest use, especially in the formation\nof casts or moulds.\nPlaster, to Bronze. See Bronzing.\nPlaster Casting. The polish on plaster fig-\nures is said to be produced by immersion in\nmelted paraffine or wax, and rubbing smooth.\nA prize for such a process was offered by some\nsociety in Berlin.\nPlaster Casts, to Harden. —A few coats of a\nhot and saturated solution of borax, alum, or\nsimilar substances are applied wiih a brush\nuntil the surface has the desired hardness. Two\ncoats will generally answer, but occasionally as\nmany as five or six may be necessary. A few\n(generally two) coats of a hot saturated solu-\ntion of chloride of barium and a few coats of\nsoap water are then applied with a brush, and\nthe surplus soap is washed off until the clear\nwater forms beads on the surface of the cast.\nThese operations can be performed in a few\nhours and produce a hard surface consisting of\nsubstances insoluble in water and which will\nprevent the appearance of yellow spots, for the\nneutral salts that have been employed will\nprevent any action of the gypsum on the\niron contained in the same. Different neu-\ntral salts may be used, and the operations may\nbe performed in the reverse order. Instead of\nchloride of barium, other barium, strontium,\nor calcium salts, that will produce an insoluble\nprecipitate and will not produce oxide of iron,\nmaybe used.— Dr. Von Decheudin, Bonn.\nThe following process is noted from France\nfor hardening plaster, so that it may be used for\nflooring, as woofl and tile are at present. About\n6 parts of good quality plaster are intimately\nmixed with 1 part of freshly slaked white lime\nfinely sifted. This mixture is then laid down\nas quickly as possible, care being taken that\nthe trowel is not used on it for too long a\ntime. The floor should then be allowed to be-\ncome very dry, and afterward be thoroughly\nsaturated with sulphate of iron or zinc— the\niron giving the strongest surface, the resist-\nance to breaking being twenty times the\nstrength of ordinary plaster. With sulphate\nof zinc the floor remains white, but when iron is\nused it becomes the color of rusted iron but\nif linseed oil, boiled with litharge, be applied\nto the surface, it becomes of a beautiful ma-\nhogany color. Especially is this the case if a\ncoat of copal varnish be added.\nTo Make Plaster Casts Hard.— To a thin milk\nof lime, or lime water add 10 or 15 drops of\nliquid silicate of soda for every pint of fluid\nused this is then thickened with plaster to a\nthick cream. Plaster thus prepared will set in\nfive minutes or thereabout, according to the\nthickness of the cream. If too much silicate is\nused, the soda will effervesce on the surface, and\nspoil the sharpnesss of the impression.\nPlaster Casting from Life.— Casting from life\nis very unpleasant for the person operated\nupon, and especially when the face is moulded,\nthe pain is considerable. The face is first\ngreased well with vaseline, the eyelashes and\neyebrows being well buried in pomade or clay\nand the small hairs well smoothed down. Whis-\nkers, etc., should be well coated with clay.\nQuills are inserted in the nostrils for respira-\ntion. Then when the patient is lying in a re-\ncumbent position, the plaster is laid on. The\npatient must not move or laugh or speak until\nthe plaster is set. The plaster is mixed with\nwarm water, as the plaster sets better than\nwith cold water. When the cast is sufficiently\nset, it is removed. This is the painful part of\nthe operation. A hand can be done by thrust-\ning it in a basin of plaster, then placing it on a\ntowel in desired position. As the plaster sets,\nlay a strong thread on the wet plaster along the\nhand down the middle finger. A second thread\nmay be laid from the wrist to the thumb. The\nobject of these threads is to make divisions in\nthe mould, and thus enable the hand to be with-\ndrawn. Now lay on the plaster over the whole\nto a sufficient thickness. When it is nearly set\n(still soft and wet), take the ends of the threads,\nand by jerking them sharply through the plas-\nter, sections are made in the mould. In a few\nminutes the plaster is hard and the mould may\nbe burst asunder at the divisions cut by the\nthread and the hand released. Fractures which\nwill probably occur in thin parts of the mould\nmust be cemented carefully in their places after\nthey are dry by a solution of shellac in alcohol.\nLimbs and even the entire figure can be\nmoulded in this manner. Professional mould-\ners should be employed in taking casts of de-\nceased persons.\nPlaster of Paris, to Cast.— In the first place\nuse the finest and purest plaster of Paris ob-\ntainable. When filling a mould, learn to beat\nup the requisite quantity of cream quickly, and\nwith care to avoid making it too thick. In\npouring this in, use a good camel s hair brush\nto displace air bubbles a mere surface cover of\nthis thin cream is all that is requisite. While\ndoing this have ready the thicker plaster, of\nthe consistence of light sirup, and fill up the\nmould at once. In about twenty minutes you\ncan open the mould, if your plaster is pure and\nlias been properly mixed. If you do not put\ntoo much oil on the object to be moulded, and\nhave used your brush properly, you will find\nclear, sharp moulds.\nSubstitute for Plaster of Paris. Best whit-\ning, 5 lb.; glue, 2}4 lb.; linseed oil, 2)4 lb. Heat\nthese materials, and mix them thoroughly.\nAfter this compound has cooled, lay on a stone\nwhich is covered with powdered whitening,\nheat until the mass is tough and firm. Cover\nwith wet cloths to keep moist. Ornaments\nmay be made of this material by pressing it","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0453.jp2"},"450":{"fulltext":"Plastering.\n438\nPoisons.\ninto a mould, with a screw press. It becomes\nvery hard after a time.\nTo Bender Plaster Figures Durable.— Thor-\noughly dry the plaster figure; cover with the\nbest linseed oil, just warm; take out in twelve\nhours and dry in a place free from dust. The\nfigure looks like wax when dry, and can be\nwashed without injury.\nTo Harden Plaster.— Mix the plaster of Paris\nwith a weak solution of gumarabic ()4 oz. to y%\npt. of water) or for common uses with a weak\nsolution of size. This not only makes the\nplaster hard but gives smoothness to the sur-\nface.\nPlaster Work, to Harden.— Glycerine is said to\nbe a good coating for the interior, but lard and\noil is most commonly used. Plaster casts im-\nmersed in a hot solution of glue long enough\nto be well saturated, will bear a nail driven in\nwithout cracking.\nPlaster Models, to Mend.— Sandarac varnish is\nthe best material for mending plaster models.\nSaturate the broken surfaces thoroughly, press\nthem well together and allow them to dry.\nPlaster of Paris, to Silver. See Silvering.\nPlastering, Interior. Substance. Mor-\ntars which are used for interior work are\ncalled fine, coarse, gauge and stucco.\nFine Stuff.— Lump lime is to be slaked with\nwater to a paste and afterward to a cream,\nalter which it hardens by the water evapor-\nating and is ready for working. It is now used\nfor what is termed slipped coat, but is ready\nfor finishing coat when prepared with plaster of\nParis or sand.\nCoarse Stuff. Lime paste, 2 parts; sand, 4*4\nprrts; hair, y part. There may be less hair\nused for the second coat.\nGauge Stuff or Hard Finish. This is com-\nposed of from V/% to 2 parts fine stuff and\nplaster of Paris. Begulation must be consid-\nered as to the rapidity of hardening. For cor-\nnices, etc., there will be equal parts fine stuff\nand plaster.\nPlasters. Plasters are external applications\nthat possess sufficient consistence not to ad-\nhere to the fingers when cold, but which be-\ncome soft and adhesive at the temperature of\nthe human body. They are chiefly composed\nof unctuous substances united to metallic ox-\nides, or powders, or to wax or rosin. Plasters\nare usually formed while warm into lb. rolls\nabout 8 or 9 in. long and wrapped in paper.\nPlasters, Composition for. Ninety parts\nBurgundy or Canada pitch are mixed with\n10 parts yellow wax and melted together.\nGlue mixed with glycerine equal to one-tenth\nthe weight of the dry glue may be used.\nPlaster, Court.— 1. Soak isinglass in a little\nwarm water for seventy-four hours, then\nevaporate nearly all the water by gentle heat,\ndissolve the residue in a little proof alcohol,\nand strain the whole through a piece of\nopen linen. The strained mass should be a stiff\njelly when cool. Now stretch a piece of silk\nor sarsanet on a wooden frame, and fix it tight\nwith tacks or packthread. Melt the jelly, and\napply it to the silk thinly and evenly, with a\nbadger hair brush. A second coating must be\napplied when the first has dried. When both\nme dry, apply over the whole surface two or\nthree coatings of balsam of Peru. Plaster thus\nmade is said to be very pliable and never breaks.\n2. Court plaster should be thoroughly soaked\non both sides before it is applied, and should\nbe pressed on with a soft, dry cloth. Then it\nwill adhere so firmly that washing with soap\nand water will hardly remove it.\n3. a. Black silk or sarsenet is strained and\nbrushed over ten or twelve times with the fol-\nlowing composition Balsam (gum) of benzoin,\nY» oz.; 90$ alcohol, 6 oz. dissolve. In a sepa-\nrate vessel dissolve 1 oz. isinglass in as little\nwater as possible; strain each solution, mix,\nend decant the clear. It is applied warm.\nWhen the last coat is quite dry, a finishing coat\nmust be given with a solution of 4 oz. Chio\nturpentine in 6 oz. tincture of benzoin, b. Is-\ninglass, 1 oz.; dissolve in proof spirit, 12 oz.; add\ntincture of benzoin, 2 oz.; give 5 or (j coats, and\nfinish off as last. c. Isinglass, loz.; water, 3 oz.;\ndissolve, add tincture oi benzoin, 1 oz.; apply\nas above, and finish off with a coat of tincture\nof benzoin or tincture of balsam of Peru.\nGoldbeater s skin is now frequently substituted\nfor sarsenet.\nPlaster, Sticking.— Adhesive plaster.\nLitharge 5 oz.\nOlive oil 12 oz.\nWater 8 oz.\nPut the water and litharge into a copper pan.\nMix together with a spatula; add the oil, and\nboil, stirring constantly. This process takes\nfrom 4 to 5 hours, but it can be hastened to 20\nor 30 minutes by adding 1 oz. of colorless vine-\ngar. To make resin or strapping plaster, used\nin retaining the lips of recent cuts and wounds\nin contact: Mix by a moderate heat 1 oz. of\nresin to 5 oz. of litharge plaster (as given above)\nand spread upon muslin.\nPlate Powders. See Polishing.\nPlating. See Electro-Metallurgy.\nPlatinizing Metals, Cheap Method\nof.— In this new process, the metallic object is\ncovered with a mixture of borate of lead, ox\nide of copper, and spirits of turpentine, and\nsubmitted to a temperature of from 250° to\n330°. This deposit, upon melting, spreads in a\nuniform layer over the object. Then a second\ncoat is laid on, consisting of borate of lead, ox-\nide of copper, and oil of lavender. Next, by\nmeans of a brush, the object is covered with a\nsolution of chloride of platinum, which is fin-\nally evaporated at a temperature of not more\nthan 20U°.\nThe platinum adheres firmly to the surface,\nand exhibits a brilliant aspect. If the deposit\nbe made upon the first coat, the platinum will\nhave a dead appearance. Platinizing in this\nway costs, it is said, about one-tenth the price\nof nickel plating Le Genie Civil.\nPlatinizing Copper.— The appearance of pla-\ntinum may be given to copper by immersion in\na bath composed of 1-M pt. Hydrochloric acid,\n7j^j oz. arsenic acid, and 134 oz. acetate of cop-\nper. The article must be cleaned before im-\nmersion, and left in the bath till it has the\ncolor of platinum.\nPlatinizing Silver.— Place some platinum in a\nsmall quantity of aqua regia or nitro-muriatic\nacid, and keep it in a warm place a few\ndays; it will dissolve. As soon as it has dis-\nsolved, evaporate the liquid at a gentle heat\nuntil it is as thick as honey, so as to get rid of\nthe excess of the nitric and muriatic acids.\nAdd a little water, and it is ready for use. A\ndozen drops of this solution goes a long way in\nplatinizing silver. The operation is performed\nin a small glass or beaker, covered with a watch-\nglass to keep in the fumes, and placed in a little\nsand in a saucer, to equalize the heat.\nPlatinum, to Solder. See Soldering.\nPlush, to Renovate. See Cleansing.\nPoisons, Antidotes for. Many serious\naccidents, says the Moniteur des Pro uibs Chi-\nmiques, happen, or may happen, in consequence\nof a loss of time in the application of remedies in\nthe case of absorption of, or burning by, such\npoisonous chemical products .as are commonly\nemployed in the industries. The following\nantidotes are recommended 1. For phenic, sul-\nphuric, muriatic, nitric, or nitro-muriatic acids,\ncreosote, tincture of iodine, or phosphorus, use\nthe white of an egg well beaten up in water,\nand a teaspoonf ul of mustard in warm water.\nIn case sulphuric, nitric, or muriatic acid has\nbeen swallowed, it is necessary to take lime\nmixed with as small a quantity of water as\npossible.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0454.jp2"},"451":{"fulltext":"Poisons.\n439\nPoisons.\nTable of Poisons and Antidotes— ElsderCs.\nPoisons.\nf\nO\n-2\n«j GO\nu\nmo\n-as r\nCS^\n■a\n03 i\nOxalic Acid, including\nPotassium Oxalate.\nAmmonia,\nPotash,\nSoda.\nMercuric Chloride.\nAcetate of Lead.\nCyanide of Potassium.\nRemarks.\nBichromate of Potash.\nNitrate of Silver.\nI\nf Nitric Acid.\n^■8\no 3 Hydrochloric Acid.\nSulphuric Acid.\n1 drm. is the small-\nest fatal dose\nknown.\nVapor of ammonia\nmay cause inflam-\nmation of the lungs\nThree grn.thesmaU-\nest fatal dose\nknown.\nThe subacetate is still\nmore poisonous.\na. Taken internally, 3\ngrn. fatal.\nh. Applied to wounds\nana abrasures of\nthe skin.\na. Takfn internally.\nh. Applied to slight\nabrasions of the\nskin.\n2 drm. have been fa\ntal. Tnhalation of\nfumes has also\nbeen fatal.\n4 drm. have caused\ndeath.\n1 drm. has been fatal\nSymptoms.\nAntidotes.\nHot burning sensa-\ntion in throat and\nstomach, vomiting,\ncramps and numb-\nness.\nSwelling of the\ntongue, mouth and\nfauces, often fol-\nlowed by s t r i c-\nture of the oeso-\nphagus.\nAcid metallic taste;\ncon striction in\nthroat and stom-\nach, followed by\nnausea and vomit-\ning.\nConstriction in the\nthroat and stom\nach, crampy pains\nand stiffness of ab\ndomen, blue line\nround the gums.\nInsensibility slow,\ngasping respira-\ntion; dilated pupil\nand spasmodic clos\nure of the jaws.\nSmarting sensation.\nIrritant pain in stom-\nach and vomiting\nProduces trouble-\nsome sores and ul-\ncers.\nPowerful irritant.\nCorrosion of wind\npipe and violent in\ntlammation.\nAcetic acid concentrated has as powerful effects as- mineral acids.\nIodine.\nEther.\nPyrogallol.\nVariable in its action;\n3 grn. have proved\nfatal.\nWhen inhaled.\n2 grn. sufficient\nkill a dog.\nto\nAcid taste tightness\nabout the throat\nvomiting\nEffects similar\nchloroform.\nto\nResembles phospho-\nrus poisoning.\nChalk, whiting or\nmagnesia suspend-\ned in water. Plas-\nter or mortar can\nbe used in emer-\ngency.\nVinegar and water.\nWhite and yelk of raw\neggs with milk. In\nemergen cy flour\npaste may be used.\nSulphates of soda or\nmagnesia. Emetic\nof sulphate of zinc.\nNo certain remedy.\nCold affusion on\nthe head and neck\nmost efficacious.\nSulphate of iron\nshould be applied\nimmediately.\nEmetics and magne-\nsia and chalk.\nCommon salt to be\ngiven, immediately\nfollowed by emet-\nics.\nBicarbonate of soda\nor carbonate of\nmagnesia, chalk,\nplaster of the room\nbeaten up in water.\nSame as nitric acid.\nSame as nitric acid.\nVomiting to be en-\ncouraged and gru-\nel, arrowroot and\nstarch given freely\nCold affusion and ar-\ntificial respiration.\nNo certain remedy;\nspeedy emetic de-\nsirable.\n-American Amateur Photographer.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0455.jp2"},"452":{"fulltext":"poisons. 440\n2. For chromic acid, the chromates and colors\nthat have chromium for a base, the compounds\nof copper, and such preparations as have an-\ntimony for a base (such as tartar emetic), and\nthe compounds of mercury and zinc, use the\nwhites of eggs in abundance, and, as an emetic,\nmustard, which, however, is useless if the poi-\nsoning has been done by tartar emetic.\n3. For ammonia, soda, potassa, the silicates,\nand the alkaline hydrosulphates, use vinegar\nand afterward oil or milk.\n4. For prussic acid and its salts, the cyanides\nof potassium and mercury, the sulphocyanides,\noil of bitter almonds, or nitrobenzine, pour\nwater on the patient s head or spinal column,\nand put mustard plasters on the sole of the\nfeet and the stomach. Do not let the patient\ngo to sleep.\n5. For ether, petroleum, benzole, fruit es-\nsences, ana concentrated alcohol, take strong\nmustard as an emetic, with much warm water,\ncold baths, and fresh air. Keep the patient\nawake.\n6 F 01 compounds of baryta or lead, use\nmustard as an emetic, with warm water, Epsom\nsa 1 l tS i? r Glauber s salts in water.\n7. For arsenic and its compounds, use mus-\ntard and dialyzed iron with magnesia, and,\nafterward, oil, milk, or mucilaginous liquids.\n8. For oxalic acid and its salts, use lime or\nlime water, and afterward castor oil.\n9. For nitrate of silver, use kite he a salt dis-\nsolved in water, and mustard as an emetic.\n10. For the nitrous fumes from the manufac-\nture of nitrate of iron, or of sulphuric acid,\ntake acetic acid as strong as can be endured, in\nsmall quantities at a time.\nPoisons.\nPoisons and their Antidotes.— The,\nfollowing brief summary of the most rational\nand simple antidotes to the commoner forms\nof poison has been compiled for the American\nAnalyst by Dr. Francis Wyatt, and it will be\nseen that he has suggested the most appropriate\nto be applied in any emergency pending the ar-\nrival or in the total absence of a skilled medical\npractitioner.\nDomestic Treatment in Cases of Poisoning.—\nIn case of poisoning a physician should be\nsent for immediately. The following is a list\nof substances recommended for domestic use\nin cases of emergency, by A. W. Blythe, M.R.\nUS.\nThe Multiple Antidote— 1. Saturated solution\nsulphate of iron, 100 parts; water, 800 parts;\nmagnesia, 88 parts; animal charcoal (kept in\nthe dry state, mixed), 44 parts. Given in wine\nglass doses, in poisoning by arsenic, zinc,\nopium, digitalis (foxglove), mercury or strych-\nnine. Useless in poisoning by phosphorus, an-\ntimony or caustic alkali.\n2. Calcined magnesia, for use in poisoning by\nacids.\n3. French turpentine, for phosphorus poi-\nsoning.\n4. Powdered ipecacuanha, as an emetic, dose\n30 grn., or zinc sulphute, dose 25 to 30 grn.\n5. A tin of mustard (as emetic).\nGeneral directions: First administer an\nemetic followed by the multiple antidote; this\nis not poisonous. For phosphorus give French\nturpentine, drm. doses every half hour. For\nacids, give calcined magnesia. For alkalies, give\nvinegar. Preserve the vomit if intentional\npoisoning be suspected.\nPoisons.\nAntidotes.\n1. Acid— Carbolic, sulphuric, nitric, muri-\natic, nitro-muriatic, creosote, iodine, phos-\nphorus.\nWhite of egg well beaten up with water. A\nteaspoonf ul of mustard flour in a cup of hot\nwater. Very thick lime water— (in case of sul-\nphuric, nitric, muriatic or nitro-muriatic\nacids).\n2. Chromic acid, chromates, all preparations\nor compounds of chromium, antimony, copper,\nmercury, or zinc.\nAbundance of white of egg in water. A\nteaspoonful of mustard flour in water. Copi-\nous draughts of an infusion of salt herbs.\n3. Ammonia, soda, potash, alkaline, silicates,\nand sulphates.\nStrong vinegar and water. Large doses of\noil. Large doses of milk.\n4. Prussic acid and its salts, all cyanides, and\nsulpho-cyanides, oil of bitter almonds, and\nnitro-benzine.\nContinuous and heavy douches of ice cold\nwater over the head and spinal column. Mus-\ntard plasters on the stomach and soles of the\nfeet. Prevent sleep.\n5. Ether, petroleum, benzine, fruit essence,\nconcentrated or absolute alcohol.\nPlenty of mustard flour in large quantity of\nhot water. Cold water douches. Fresh air.\nPrevent sleep absolutely.\n6. Compounds of baryta and lead.\nA teaspoonful of mustard flour in warm\nwater. Strong solutions of Epsom salts and\nGlauber salts in cold water.\n7. Compounds of arsenic.\nA teaspoonful of mustard flour in warm\nwater. A teaspoonful of dialyzed iron mixed\nwith the same quantity of calcined magnesia\nevery Ave minutes for one hour. Then plenty\nof oil, or milk, or some mucilaginous tea— say\nlinseed.\n8. Oxalic acid and its salts.\nVery thick paste of lime* and water by large\nspoonfuls at the time. After* several of these,\nlarge draughts of lime water. Finally 4 oz\ncastor oil.\n9. Nitrate of silver.\nLarge doses of ordinary kitchen salt dissolved\nin water, after which one teaspoonf ul of mus-\ntard flour in warm water.\n10. Nitrous fumes of vapors, arising in vit-\nriol or chemical works.\nFrequent and small doses of strong acetic\nacid— the stronger, the better.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0456.jp2"},"453":{"fulltext":"Poison*.\n4-tl\nPoisons.\nPoison Ivy. Symptoms Contact with and\nwith many persons the near approach to the\nvine gives rise to violent erysipelatous inflam-\nmation, especially of the lace and hands, at-\ntended with itching-, redness, burning 1 and\nswelling, with watery blisters. Treatment:\nGive saline laxatives and apply weak lead\nwater and laudanum, or lime water and sweet\noil, or bathe the parts freely with spirits of\nniter. Anointing with oil will prevent poison-\ning from it.\nAcetic Acid, Glacial.— Symptoms Corrosion,\nperforation, odor, abdominal pain, collapse.\nTreatment: Not stomach pump; soap and\nwater, lime, magnesia, milk, oil, thick gruel.\nMorphia, against shock.\nAconite, monkshood, wolfsbane, blue rocket.—\nSymptoms Tingling and numbness, warmth\nat pit of stomach, paralysis from below up.\nPulse and respiration depressed; mind clear.\nTreatment Stomach pump or emetic; stim-\nulants; atropia, hypodermic. Keep warm and\nrecumbent. Digitalis hypodermic; amyl ni-\ntrite. Artificial respiration.\nAlcohol, brandy.— Symptoms Intoxication,\ngiddiness; lips livid; convulsions; coma; stupor.\nTreatment Stomach pump or apomorphia hy-\npoderm; battery, coffee, douche, amyl nitrite.\nAlmonds, oil of bitter. See Hydrocyanic\nacid.\nAmmonia. Symptoms Burning pain in\nmouth, stomach and chest. Membranes swol-\nlen, red; difficult breathing, bloody vomiting;\npulse slow; pallor, loss of voice. Treatment\nNot stomach pump. Vinegar, lemon juice; de-\nmulcent drinks; tracheotomy; inhalation of\nsteam or chloroform; morphia, hypodermic,\nfor shock.\nAntimony, Tartar Emetic. Symptoms\nMetallic taste, vomiting, choking sensation;\npain in stomach, purging; thirst, cramps,\ncold sweat head congestion, f aintness pulse\nand breathing weak collapse. Treatment\nTannic or gallic acid tea, coffee, demulcent\ndrinks stimulants morphia, hypodermic.\nAquafortis. See Nitric Acid.\nArsenic, Vermin Killers, etc.— Symptoms:—\nFaintness, depression, burning pain vomiting,\npurging; cramp, tightness in throat, thirst;\npulse slow, breath painful, skin clammy; col-\nlapse. Treatment: Stomach pump, or apo-\nmorphia, hypodermic. Empty and wash the\nstomach well. Dialys. iron; magnesia, castor oil.\nStimulants: Mucilaginous drinks. Warmth.\nMorphia, hypodermic.\nArum Maculatum, Cuckoo paint; lords and\nladies, cows and calves; wake-robin.— Symp-\ntoms Vomiting, purging, convulsions pupils\ndilated; coma; tongue swells. Treatment:\nEmetic, castor oil, coffee.\nAtropine, Belladonna. See Belladonna.\nBarium, Baryta. Symptoms Vomiting,\npain in bowels, purging; pulse and breathing-\ndistorted cramps, paralysis, giddiness. Treat-\nment: Stomach pump or emetic; sulphates;\nwarmth. Stimulants: Morphia, hypodermic.\nBelladonna, Deadly Nightshade. Symp-\ntoms Mouth, throat hot eyes sparkling, face\nflushed, pupils dilated delirium, staggering\nrash(?). Treatment: Stomach pump or\nemetic. Stimulants Coffee; pilocarp; hy-\npodermic; artificial respiration.\nBenzol, Benzine. Symptoms Narcotic\ntwitching, difficult breathing, head noises.\nTreatment Stomach pump or emetic. Stimu-\nlants: Atropia, hypodermic; douche; battery;\nartificial respiration.\nBrucine. See Strychnine.\nCalabar Bean. See Physostigmine.\nCamphor. Symptoms Odor faintness,\nlanguor, delirium, convulsions, coldness; pulse\nquick, breathing difficult. Treatment Stom-\nach pump or apomorphia hypodermic. Stimu-\nlants: Warmth; douche.\nCantharides, Spanish Fly. Symptoms:—\nfhirning pain, throat and stomach; diarrhea\nsalivation, albuminous urine; high temper-\nature, headache, quick pulse insensibility,\nconvulsions. Treatment: Stomach pump\nor emetic demulcent drinks, no oii morphia\nbaths; linseed poultice.\nCarbolic Acid.— Symptoms:— Burning pain in\nmouth and stomach mucous membrane, white,\nhardened; skin, cold; pupils, contracted;\nurine, dark; insensibility; coma; collapse.\nTreatment: Stomach pump or emetic soda or\nsacch. lime white ot egg castor oil stimu-\nlants warmth battery; atropia, hypodermic;\nnitrite amyl bleeding.\nCarbonic Acid, Choke Damp, Same for Car-\nbonic Oxide.— Symptoms:— Pains, head and\nthroat giddiness sleepiness insensibility\nheart and breath hurried coma. Treatment\nFresh air artificial respiration ammonia\nrespd.; friction stimulants oxygen douche\ntransfusion or bleeding\nCaustic Potash or Soda. See Potash.\nChloral.— Symptoms Sleep loss of muscular-\npower; reflex action; sensibility diminished;\nstertorous breathing. Treatment Stomach\npump or emetic; warmth; rousing; coffee;\nstrychnine, hypodermic; nitrite amyl; artifi-\ncial respiration.\nChlorine.— Symptoms Tightness irritation,\nchest; cough; difficult breathing, swallowing.\nTreatment: Fresh air; inhale steam; dilute\nammonia sulphur hydrogen chloroform\nether.\nChloroform.— If swallowed Stomach pump or\nemetic; carbonate soda solution; rousing;\nmustard to the heart; nitrite amyl. If In-\nhaled Fresh air douche artificial respira-\ntion nitrite amyl battery.\nChoke Damp. See Carbonic Acid.\nChromium, Chromates. Symptoms Vom-\niting purging cramps depression suppres-\nsion urine; pupils dilated.. Treatment: Stomach\npump or emetic magnesia carbonate; chalk;\ngruel.\nCoal Gas.— Symptoms:— Giddiness; insensibil-\nity; difficult breathing; asphyxia; coma.\nTreatment Mustard to the heart. Also as f or-\ncarbonic acid.\nCocculus Indicus. See Picrotoxine.\nColchicum, Meadow Saffron.— Symptoms:—\nVomiting; purging; throat irritation; thirst;,\nsweat; twitchings; delirium. Treatment:\nStomach pump or emetic; tannic; gallic acid;\ndemulcent drink stimulants morphia.\nColocynth.— Symptoms Vomiting purging;\ncold; weak pulse; collapse. Treatment: Stom-\nach pump or emetic camphor, and similar to\ncolchicum.\nConine, Hemlock.— Symptoms Stagger-\ning; loss of muscular power; sight; difficult\nbreathing, swallowing asphyxia. Treatment\nStomach pump or emetic tannic, gallic acid\nwarmth; artificial respiration stimulants;\natropia, hypodermic.\nCopper.— Symptoms:— Colic, griping; metallic\ntaste; vomiting, purging; thirst, sweating,,\ncoldness, giddiness, coma. Treatment: Stom-\nach pump or emetic; demulcent drink; mor-\nphia, hypodermic; linseed poultice.\nCroton Oii.— Symptoms Abdominal pain,\npurging, vomiting; cold skin, collapse. Treat-\nment Stomach pump or emetic; camphor,\nstimulants, morphia; gruel; linseed poultice.\nCurari ne. —Symptoms: —Paralysis of motors\nand respiration. Treatment Artificial respi-\nration; stimulants; ligature and wash wound.\nCyanides. See Hydrocyanic Acid.\nDaturine. See Atropine.\nDigitalis (Foxglove).— Symptoms:— Abdominal\npain, purging, vomiting; headache, small pulse,\ndelirium, convulsions; cold skin, sweat; pupils\ndilated. Treatment: Stomach pump or emetic;\nstimulants; tannic acid; keep patient lying.\nErgot.— Symptoms Tingling, cramps, vom-\niting, diarrhea. Treatment: Stomach pump\nor emetic; tannic, gallic acid; nitrate arayl;\nstimulants; keep warm, lying down.\nEther. Symptoms Anaesthetic action.\nTreatment Artificial respiration; fresh air:,","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0457.jp2"},"454":{"fulltext":"Poisons.\n442\nPolishing.\ndouche, stimulants; blows on chest it heart\nstops.\nFly Powders.— Generally treatment for ar-\nsenic.\nGas. See Coal Gas.\nGelsemium. Symptoms Giddiness; pain\neyes and brows, double sight, weakness, suffo-\ncation, coma. Treatment Stomach pump\nor emetic; douche; stimulants; artificial respi-\nx-ation.\nHydrochloric Acid, Muriatic acid spirits;\nsalts.— Symptoms:— Burning- pains, vomiting,\nthirst. Treatment Not stomach pump bi-\ncarbonate soda; magnesia, lime water, soap\nwater, demulcent drinks; morphia, hypoder-\nmic.\nHydrocyanic Acid, Prussic acid.— Symptoms:—\nInsensibility; pupil dilated, skin cold, sweating,\ndifficult breathing. Treatment Stomach\npump or emetic; ammonia inhaled; stimulants;\natropia, hypodermic; artificial respiration; bat-\ntery.\nHyoscyamine. See Belladonna.\nIodine.— Symptoms Stomach, throat pain,\nvomiting, purging, giddi ness, f aintness (starch\ntest). Treatment: Stomach pump or emetic;\nstarch; nitrite amyl; morphia.\nJaborandi.— Same treatment as pilocarpine;\nstomach pump or emetic.\nLaburnum. Symptoms: —Purging, vomit-\ning, drowsiness, convulsions. Treatment:\nDouche; stimulants; coffee.\nLead. Symptoms Metallic taste, thirst,\ncolic, cramps, cold sweat, paralysis. Treatment\nStomach pump or emetic; sulphates; iodide\npotassium; morphia.\nLemons, Salt of. See Oxalic Acid.\nLobelia.— Symptoms Vomiting, giddiness,\ntremors, convulsions, depression, collapse.\nTreatment Stomach pump or emetic, tannic\nacid; warmth; stimulants; keep lying down.\nMorphia.— Symptoms Intoxication sleep\npupils contract; respiration and pulse slow, de-\npressed. Treatment: Stomach pump or emetic;\nrouse; inhale ammonia; douche; battery; atro-\npia, hypodermic; nitrite amyl; artificial res-\npiration.\nMuscarine, Fly fungus, mushrooms.— Symp-\ntoms:— Colic, purging, vomiting, excitement,\ncoma. Treatment: Stomach pump or emetic\nstimulants, castor oil, warmth; atropia, hypo-\ndermic.\nNicotine. See Tobacco.\nNitrate of Potassium, Saltpeter.— Symptoms\n—Nausea, purging, vomiting, coldness, tremors,\nconvulsions, paralysis, collapse. Treatment:\nStomach pump or emetic; demulcent drinks,\nstimulants, warmth, nitrite amyl; atropia,\nhypodermic.\nNitric Acid.— Symptoms:— Corrosion, vomit-\ning, abdominal pain; difficult breathing. Treat-\nment Not stomach pump; magnesia, lime\nwater, gruel, oil; morphia, hypodermic; trache-\notomy.\nNitro-benzol, Artificial Essence Almonds-\nSymptoms:— Nausea, difficult breathing, drow-\nsiness, stupidity; coma. Treatment Stomach\npump or emetic; stimulants; douche; artificial\nrespiration; battery; atropia, hypodermic.\nNitrous Oxide. Symptoms Anasthaesia.\nTreatment: Fresh air, oxygen; artificial res-\npiration.\nOpium. See Morphine.\nOxalic Acid.— Symptoms:— Vomiting, purg-\ning, cramps. Treatment: Chalk, sacch. lime;\npurgatives; no potash, soda or ammonia.\nPhosphorus (matches). Symptoms Odor;\nvomiting; purple spots; delirium. Treatment:\nEmetic; French oil of turpentine; copper sul-\nphate; purgative.\nPhysostigmine, Calabar bean.— Symptoms\nFaintness, prostration, twitching, giddiness;\nno delirium. Treatment: Stomach pump or\nemetic, stimulants; artificial respiration; atro-\npia, hypodermic; chloral; strychnia, hypoder-\njnic.\nicrotoxine.— Symptoms Vomiting, weak-\nness, sleep, eruption. Treatment: Stomach\npump, chloral, potassium bromide.\nPilocarpine.— Symptoms -.—Sweating, saliva-\ntion, headache, quick pulse. Treatment: At-\nropia hypodermic, or belladonna by mouth.\nPotash.— Symptoms:— Caustic taste,corrosion,\npainful purging, skin cold. Treatment Not\nstomach pump; vinegar, lemon juice, oil, de-\nmulcent drink.\nPrussic Acid. See Hydrocyanic Acid.— Stom-\nach pump or emetic.\nResorcin.— Symptoms Prickling of the skin,\ngiddiness, sweating, insensibility, white lips,\ndry tongue. Treatment Albumen, soda, sacch.\nlime; stimulants; warmth, battery, nitrate\namyl; atropia, hypodermic.\nSavin.— Symptoms Vomiting, painful purg-\ning, coma, convulsions. Treatment: Emetic,\nlinseed poultice, purgative, morphia, hypo-\ndermic.\nSewer Gas.— Symptoms -Livid lips, conjunc-\ntivae injected, pupils dilated, insensible, tonic\nconvulsions, high temperature. Treatment:\nFresh air, artificial respiration, ammonia.\nStimulants: Coffee. Hot and cold douche.\nSnake Bite. —Treatment Cauterization and\nligature. Stimulants: Permanganate, liquor\npotassae; artificial respiration; ammonia in-\njection.\nSoda. See Potash.\nSoothing Sirup. See Opium.\nStramonium, Thorn apple.— Symptoms:— Pu-\npils dilated, delirium, rash on skin, paralysis,\ncoma. Treatment: Stomach pump or emetic;\ncoffee, stimulants; pilocarp, hypodermic; arti-\nficial respiration; mustard douche to limbs.\nStrychnine. Symptoms Convulsions.\nTreatment: Stomach pump or emetic; potas-\nsium bromide; animi; charchi; nitrite amyl;\ncurare; artificial respiration.\nTartaric Acid. See Acwfe.— Symptoms:— Con-\nvulsions. Treatment: Alkalies (potash and\nsoda) and ammonia, not suitable. Use lime,\ncastor oil.\nTobacco.— Symptoms:— Vomiting, dim vision,\nweak pulse, and cold skin. Treatment: Stom-\nach pump or emetic; stimulant, strychnia, hy-\npodermic; tannic acid; hot application to skin;\nkeep patient lying down.\nTurpentine.— Symptoms:— Intoxication, coma,\ncollapse, pupils contracted. Treatment: Stom-\nach pump or emetic; apomorphia if necessary;\nmagnesia, sulphur; demulcent drink.\nVeratrine.— Symptoms Thirst, vomiting,\npainful diarrhea, headache, weak pulse. Treat-\nment: Stomach pump or emetic; coffee, stimu-\nlants; warm application; keep patient lying\ndown.\nZinc— Symptoms:— Painful vomiting, quick\npulse and breathing, paralysis, coma. Treat-\nment: Potassium or sodium carbonate; tannic\nor gallic acid; milk; eggs; morphia, hypoder-\nmic.\nPole, Warped.— Wet the concave side, and\nthen hold the convex side to the fire.\nPolio.— Poho, a Chinese essence for head-\nache, etc., consists, according to Hagar, of good\nand pure peppermint oil, rather good and\nresinous. According to others it is a mixture\nof Epsom salts and peppermint oil, or of the\nlatter with oil of almonds.\nPolishing.— Agate, to Polish.— Quartz and\nagate are slit with a thin iron disk supplied\nwith diamond dust moistened with brick oil.\nThe rough grinding is done on a lead wheel\nsupplied with coarse emery and water. The\nsmoothing is done with a lead lap and fine\nemery, and the polishing may be accomplished\nby means of a lead lap, whose surface is hacked\nand supplied with rottenstone and water.\nAlabaster, to Polish.— First use pumice stone,\nthen apply a paste made of whiting, soap and\nwater, and lastly rub with Canton flannel.\nPolisliesfor Boots and Shoes, and Stoves, Black-\ning for. See Blacking.\nBook: Edges, to Pol ish. This is done with a","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0458.jp2"},"455":{"fulltext":"Polishing.\n413\nPolishing.\n^volt s or dog s tooth, or a steel burnisher; for\nthis purpose place the books in a screw press,\nwith boards on each side of them, and other\nboards distributed between each volume; first\nrub the edges well with the tooth to give them\na luster. After sprinkling or staining and\nwhen the edges are dry, burnish the front;\nthen turning the press, burnish the edges at\nthe top and bottom of the volume. Burnish\nthe gilt edges in the same manner, after hav-\ning applied the gold; but observe, in gilding, to\nlay the gold first upon the front, and allow it\nto dry; and on no account to commence bur-\nnishing till it is quite dry.\nBrass, to Polish.— Brass, Polishing Paste f or.— 1.\nThree parts of oxalic acid are dissolved in 40\nparts of hot water, and add 100 parts of pow-\ndered pumice stone, 2 parts of oil of turpen-\ntine, 12 parts of soft soap and 12 parts of a fat\noil.\n2. For Brass and Copper.— Rottenstone, 3 oz.;\npowdered soap, 1 oz.\n3. Rottenstone, 7 oz.; powdered oxalic acid,\n1 oz. Both are used with a little water.\n4. Soft soap, 2 oz.; rottenstone, 4 oz.; beaten\nto a paste.\n5. Rottenstone made into a paste with sweet\noil.\n6.tRottenstone, 4 oz.; oxalic acid, in fine pow-\nder, 1 oz.; sweet oil, 1 oz.; turpentine, q. s., to\nmake a paste.\nThe above are used to clean brass work,\nwhen neither varnished nor lacquered. The\nfirst and last are best applied with a little\nwater, the second with a little spirit of turpen-\ntine or sweet oil. Both require friction with\nsoft leather.\nBrass, Copper, German Silver, etc., to Polish.\nUse Vienna lime with oil.\nBrass, to Polish. Rub the metal with\nrottenstone and sweet oil. then rub off with a\npiece of cotton flannel, and polish with soft\nleather. A solution of oxalic acid rubbed over\ntarnished brass soon removes the tarnish, ren-\ndering the metal bright. The acid must be\nwashed off with water, and the brass rubbed\nwith whiting and soft leather. A mixture of\nmuriatic acid and alum dissolved in water\nimparts a golden color to brass articles that\nare steeped in it for a few seconds.\nBrass Polishes.— 1. Make a pasteof equal parts\nof sulphur and chalk, with sufficient vinegar to\nreduce it to the proper consistency; apply it to\nthe metal while moist, allow it to dry on, and\nrub with a chamois skin. For ornaments or en-\ngraved work, clean with a brush.\n2. Another process, and one that gives\nto the brass a very brilliant color, is to make a\nwash of alum boiled in strong lye, in the pro-\nportion of 1 oz. alum to 1 pt. lye. Wash the\nbrass with this mixture, and afterward rub\nwith chamois and tripoli.\n3. A weak solution of ammonia in water\nmakes an excellent wash. Apply it with a rag,\ndry with a piece of shammy, and afterward\nrub with a piece of shammy and a very small\nquantity of jewelers rouge.\n4. Place 2 oz. sulphuric acid in an earthen\nvessel and add 1 qt. cold soft water; after the\nheat that is generated has passed off, add 1 oz.\neach tripoli and jewelers rouge. When well\nmixed, put in a bottle for use.\n5. Brass may be polished without a burnisher,\nby using an exceedingly fine cut file, and fine\nemery cloth.\n6. Small articles to be polished should be\nshaken by themselves for a short time; then\nsome greasy parings of leather should be put\nin the barrel with them. After they have\nbeen shaken smooth, the greasy leather par-\nings are replaced by clean ones and the shaking\nis continued as long as necessary.\n7. When the brass is made smooth by turn-\ning, or filing with a very fine file, it may be\nrubbed with a smooth fine grained stone, or\nwith charcoal and water. When it is made\nquite smooth and free from scratches, it may\nbe polished with rottenstone and oil, alcohol,\nor spirits of turpentine.\n8. Brass work can be polished by rubbing the\nmetal with finely powdered tripoli mixed with\nsweet oil and applied with a rubber made from\na piece of an old hat or felt. Or else a mixture\nof glycerine, stearine, naphthaline, or creo-\nsote mixed with dilute sulphuric acid can be\nused.\n9. Magic Polish for Brass.— Sulphuric acid,\n20 parts; pulverized bichromate of potash, 10\nparts; dilute with an equal weight of water; ap-\nply well to the brass. Wash well in water, im-\nmediately wipe dry, and polish with rotten-\nstone.\nCelluloid, to Polish.— Make a kind of putty of\nhot soap, free from rosin, in which equal\nparts of fine pumice stone and flour emery\nhave been mixed.\nPolishing Cloth.— 1. In 20 oz. water dissolve 4 oz.\nsoap, and gradually add 2 oz. pumice stone or\nfinely powdered emery.\n2. Infusorial earth may be used with advan-\ntage. Sat urate the best unbleached muslin with\nthis paste. Color with a little aniline red, if\ndesired.\nPolishing Compound.— Emerson s compound\nfor polishing and cleaning glass, silver plate,\ntinware, and surfaces that permit only slight\nfriction and but little action, consists of water,\n4 oz.; carbonate of ammonia, 1 oz. When dis-\nsolved add 16 oz. Paris white, with aniline for\ncoloring This forms a solid. As the Paris\nwhite consists of white lead, all who purchase\nthis compound should beware of using it upon\nthe inside of culinary vessels.\nPutty Powder.— Put tin, as pure as possible,\ninto a glass vessel— a wineglass does very well\nwhen making small quantities— and pour in\nsufficient nitric acid to cover it. Great heat is\nevolved, and care must be taken not to inhale\nthe fumes, as they are poisonous. When there\nis nothing left but a white powder, it is heated\nin a Hessian crucible, to drive off the nitric\nacid. For Crocus see Crocus.\nCutlery.— The burnishing of cutlery is execut-\ned by hand or vise burnishers they are all\nmade of fine steel, hardened, and well polished.\nThe first kind have nothing particular in their\nconstruction but vise burnishers are formed\nand mounted in a very different manner. On a\nlong piece of wood, placed horizontally in the\nvise, is fixed another piece, as long, but bent in\nthe form of a bow, the concavity of which is\nturned downward. These two pieces are united\nat one of their extremities oy a pin and a hook,\nwhich allows the upper piece to move freely\naround this point as a center. The burnisher\nis fixed in the middle of this bent piece, and it\nis made more or less projecting, by the greater\nor lesser length which is given to its base. The\nmovable piece of wood, at the extremity oppo-\nsite to the hook, is furnished with a handle,\nwhich serves the workman as a lever. This\nposition allows the burnisher to rest with\ngreater force against the article to be burn-\nished, which is placed en the fixed piece of\nwood. The burnisher has either the form of\nthe face of a round headed hammer, well pol-\nished to burnish those pieces which are plain or\nconvex or the form of two cones opposed at\ntheir summits, with their bases rounded, to\nburnish those pieces which are concave or ring\nshaped.\nEmery Paper.— Emery paper is extensively\nemployed for cleaning and polishing metals,\nbut all the kinds in use hitherto have the great\ndisadvantage of not retaining an equal effi-\nciency. The fresh parts bite too much, and the\npaper itself soon gets worn through in places.\nEmery on linen has been tried, with good suc-\ncess. The emery paper recommended by the\nManufacturer and Builder is not a pasteboard\nwith emery on both sides, but a board in which\nemery enters as a constituent part. Fine and\nuniform cardboard pulp must be procured, and\nVitoYz its weight of emery powder thoroughly","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0459.jp2"},"456":{"fulltext":"Polishing.\n444\nPolishing-.\nmixed with it, so that the emery may be equally\ndistributed. The mass is then poured out iu\ncakes of 1 in. to 10 in. in thickness. They must\nnot be pressed hard, however, but allowed to\nretain a medium pliability. This paper will\nadapt itself to the forms of the articles, and\nwill serve until completely worn out.\nEmery Wheels.— I. Can be made with shellac\npowdered fine, and a small portion of rosin, a\npiece about the size of a walnut, to 1 oz. shellac,\nand a piece of old vulcanized India rubber about\nthe same size, which gives it toughness. Shel-\nlac about 1 oz. to 1 lb. of emery, well melt, and\nstir about in a small frying pan well mix the\npowders before applying heat. Be careful not\nto burn it, or get grease in it have a ring of\niron and a piece of plate iron prepared with\nblack lead and beer pretty thick place the\nring upon the plate and make a mould, turn\nthe stuff into it, and well ram down evenly\nput on one side to cool when cold, turn out\nand chuck in lathe, and with a piece of red hot\niron bore a hole for spindle after spindled put\nbetween centers, and trice up with hot iron.\nVery good grindstones maybe made with silver\nsand mixed with powdered glass, and it is ne-\ncessary to have some body besides shellac for\ncoarse emery to form a body to bed the grains\nin. Emery dust from grinding glass, and Tur-\nkey stone slips, and slate, may be used as a sub-\nstitute for the flour.\n2. Good emery wheels are formed of clean\nemery compounded with just enough boiled\nlinseed oil, the mixture being agitated for a\nsufficient period under exposure to a consider-\nable heat and free acceas of atmospheric air, or\nsome still more powerful oxidizing agent; it\nassumes the necessary degree of tenacity, and\nwhile warm, being exposed to hydraulic pres-\nsure in a suitable mould, and subsequent dry-\ning in a stove, the emery wheel is complete.\nFriction Polish.— A good polish for iron or\nsteel rotating in the lathe is made by using fine\nemery and oil which is applied by lead or wood\nclamps, screwed together. Three very good\noils for lubrication are olive oil, sperm, and\nneats foot.\nFurniture, to Polish. See Wood Polishing,\nbelow.\nGas Fixtures, to Polish.— Pickle, and while in\nthe lathe dip the burnisher in the following\nliquid Turmeric root, 60 parts orange shellac,\n60 parts dissolved in alcohol tartar, 120 parts\nox-gall, 3 parts alcohol, 6 parts water, 180\nparts dry with a soft cloth.\nGerman Silver, to Polish.— Take 1 lb. peroxide\nof iron, pure, and put half of it into a wash\nbasin, pouring on water, and keeping it stirred\nuntil the basin is nearly full. While the water\nand crocus are in slow motion, pour off, leav-\ning grit at the bottom. Repeat this a second\ntime, pouring off into another basin. Cleanse\nout grit, and do the same with the other half.\nWhen the second lot is poured off. the crocus\nin the first will have settled to the bottom;\npour off the water gently, take out the pow-\nder, dry it, and put both when washed clear of\ngrit, and dried, into a box into which dust can-\nnot get. If the silver work is very dirty, rub\nthe mixture of powder and oil on with the\nfingers, and then it will be known if any grit is\non the work. If the work is not very black,\ntake a piece of soft chamois leather, and rub\nsome dry crocus on, and when well rubbed,\nshake out the leather, and let the powder fall\noff that is not used, or rub it off with a brush.\nDo not put down the leather in the dust.\nGold, to Polish.— 1. Use rouge on a buff moist-\nened with alcohol.\n2. Use jeweler s rouge with a brush.\nGold Polishing Powder for.— I. Eighteen parts\nof chalk are mixed with 5 parts of talc, 2 parts\nof silica, 5 payts of alumina, 2 parts of carbon-\nate of magnesia, and 2 parts of jeweler s red.\n2. Rock alum (burned and finely powdered),\n5 parts; levigated chalk, 1 part; mix, and apply\nwith a dry brush.\nGold and Silver Lace.— Gold lace, spangles,\nclasps, knots, etc., may be brushed over with\nthe following composition One and one-half\noz. shellac, J^drm. dragon s blood, y% drm. tur-\nmeric root; digest with strong alcohol, decant-\ning the ruby red colored tincture thus ob-\ntained. After coating with this composition, a\nwarm flat iron is gently brushed over the ob-\njects, so as to heat them only very slightly.\nGold embroidery can be similarly treated. Sil-\nver lace or embroidery may be dusted over\nwith the following powder and well brushed\nTake alabaster, and strongly ignite it, and\nwhile still hot place it in corn brandy; a white\npowder is thus obtained, which is fit for use\nafter heating over the flame of a spirit lamp. It\nshould be dusted on from a linen bag.\nGold Workers, Polishing Powder for.— Car-\nbonate of lead, 21}/£ parts; carbonate of lime\n(chalk), 87 parts; carbonate of magnesia, 8^\nparts; alumina, 21 parts; silica, 13 parts; jew-\neler s rouge, 8^j parts. Mix together.\nGrindstone, Artificial.— Washed silicious sand,\n3 parts; shellac, 1 part; melt the lac, and mould\nin the sand, while warm. Emery may be sub-\nstituted for sand. Used for razors and fine\ncutlery.\nHorn and Bone, to Polish.— 1. Use finely ground\npumice stone and water, applied with felt pol-\nishing wheel; finish with rottenstone applied in\nthe same way.\n2. Having scraped the work perfectly smooth\nand level, rub it with very fine sand paper, re-\npeat the rubbing with a bit of felt dipped in\nfinely powdered charcoal with water; and\nlastly, with rottenstone or putty powder and\nfinish with a piece of soft wash leather, damped\nwith a little sweet oil or still better, rub it with\nsubnitrate of bismuth by the palm of the hand.\n3. First scrape with glass to take off any\nroughness, then grind some pumice stone to\npowder, and with a piece of cloth wetted and\ndipped in the powder, rub them until a smooth\nface is obtained. Next polish with rottenstone\nand linseed oil, and finish with dry flour and a\npiece of cleanjinen rag. The more rubbing with\nthe stone and oil, the better the polish. Trent\nsand is used in the Sheffield factories. It is a\nvery fine and sharp sand, and is prepared for\nuse by calcining and sifting.\nIron, to Polish.— You cannot keep the bright\ncolor of polished iron on the hot parts of an\nengine without constant attention and wiping\nwith engine oil. Oxalic acid may help the clean-\ning, but the acid left on the bright surface\nfavors oxidation. For cleaning, use tripoli,\nrottenstone, or pulverized pumice stone, with\nengine or kerosene oil. Neglected or dirty\nspots may be removed with a scraper and fine\nemery paper, and afterward rubbed with oil.\nEvery part of bright work around an engine\nshould be wiped with oil. Moisture imme-\ndiately discolors a clean bright surface. Polish\nthe lubricator with rottenstone and oil only,\nand only when necessary. Too much polishing\nsoon makes it look old from wear.\nIron and Steel, to Polish.— I. Usually the\narticle to be polished is first rubbed down with\nemery of gradually increasing fineness, after\nwhich the article is moistened with alcohol or\nwater and polished with Vienna lime, rouge or\ntin putty.\n2. Use tin putty and hartshorn triturated in\nalcohol. Use with any soft leather this is an\nexcellent polish.\n3. Take an ordinary bar of malleable iron in\nits usual merchantable state, remove the oxide\nfrom its surface by the application of diluted\nsulphuric acid, after which wash the bar in an\nalkaline solution, then cover the entire bar\nwith oil or petroleum. The bar is then ready\nfor the chief process. A muffle surface is so\nprepared that a uniform, or nearly uniform,\nheat can be maintained within it, and in this\nfurnace the bar is placed. Care must be taken\nthat too great a heat is not imparted to it, for on\nthis depends the success of the operation.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0460.jp2"},"457":{"fulltext":"Polishing.\n445\nPolishing.\nWhen the bar approaches a red heat, and when\nthe redness is just preceptible, it is a certain\nindication that the proper degree has been at-\ntained. The bar is then at once removed and\npassed through the finishing rolls five or six\ntimes, when it will be found to have a dark\npolished uniform surface and the appearance\nof Kussian sheet iron.\n4. Keys, Key Rings and Other Articles of\nIron.— Finish them well with a dead smooth\nfile, then mix some fine emery and oil together,\nhold the key in wood clamps, take some lom\nstrips of wash leather, dip in the above and\npolish well every part until all scars dissappear,\nthen tie two or three dozen on a piece of iron\nbinding wire, put them in an iron box with\nleather scraps burnt and made into a fine pow-\nder, cover bottom of box y% in. thick, spread\nout the keys on this, cover them up with the\npowder or leather dust, put a lid on, tie down,\nput in a slow fire until the box is red hot, soak\nabout twenty minutes, then open the box, take\nout the keys quick, plunge them in oil— water\nmakes them too brittle; now repeat the polishing\nas before, with long leather strings dipped in the\noil and emery, until all the black from the\nhardening is off every part, then take them to\nthe brushing frame, charge your brush well\nwith flour of emery, keep turning the key in\nevery direction until the polish begins to ap-\npear; after this dip them in slaked lime, and\nget off every particle of grease. Take them to\nanother brushing frame, the brush charged\nwith crocus and water; keep dipping the key\nin occasionally, and follow up process on the\nbrush until the polish comes up well. To put\nthe extra gloss or polish on, take the leather\nstrings as before, this time dipped in a mixture\nof putty powder and water; work the string-\nwell over every part until dark polish comes\nup. If you wish a higher polish, it is done by\nhand that is, girls dip their hands in the putty\npowder mixture above and rub every possible\npart up with the palm of the hand, and this\ngives the beautiful polish that is upon them.\nAxibin.\n5. Boden recommends the f ollowing method\nof brightening the surfaces of iron plates, wire,\netc., as the result of numerous experiments\nmade in the laboratory of the Industrial\nMuseum at Munich: The object, whatever it\nmay be, just as it comes from the forge, is laid\nfor the space of one hour in dilute sulphuric\nacid (oV part acid). The action of the acid may\nbe increased by the addition of a little carbolic\nacid The forge scales are loosened by the\naction of the acid, and the object is then wash-\ned clean with water and dried with sawdust.\nNext, it is held for an instant in nitrous acid,\nthe operator of course being on his guard\nagainst the nitrous fumes, washed again care-\nfully, dried in sawdust and rubbed over clean.\nIron goods thus treated acquire a perfectly\nbright, pure surface, having a white glance,\nwithout the intervention of any mechanical\nprocess of polishing.\n6. Steel.— Use bell metal polishers for arbors,\nhaving first brought up the surface with oil-\nstone dust and oil and soft steel polishers; for\nfiat pieces use a piece of glass for the oilstone\ndust, a bell metal block for the sharp red stuff,\nand a white metal block for the fine red stuff.\nThe polishing stuff must be well mixed up and\nkept very clean; the polishers and blocks must\nbe filed to clean off the old stuff, and then rub-\nbed over with soft bread; put only a little red\nstuff on the block and keep working it until it\nis quite dry; the piece will then leave the block\nquite clean; use bread to clean off the surplus\nred stuff before using the brush. If the piece\nis scratched, put on some more red stuff, which\nmust not be too wet, and try again.\n7. The polish on flat steel pieces in fine watch-\nwork is produced with oilstone dust, burnt\nTurkey stone, and a steel polisher, soft steel,\nbell metal, and sharp stuff, grain tin and\nglossing stuff. The metals are squared with a\nfile and vary in shape according to the work\nin hand.\n8. Get an 18 gal. barrel and put an iron\nspindle through the two ends; mount it on\ntrestles in the same way as a butter churn,\nwith a winch to turn it by; cut out a hole in\nthe side by which to introduce the articles to\nbe polished; have a tight fitting cover to the\nhole; procure some worn out casting pots or\ncrucibles, such as used by founders, and pound\nthem in an iron mortar until fine enough to\npass through a sieve which will not allow the\nsteel articles to pass through. Put equal quan-\ntities of this grit and of the articles in the bar-\nrel; fasten on the cover and turn the barrel\nfor about an hour at the rate of about fifty\nturns a minute; take all out of the barrel and\nsift out the grit. If a finer polish than this is\nrequired, put them through another turning,\nsubstituting for the grit small scraps of leather\ncalled mosings, which can be procured from\ncurriers, and emery flour. Do not more than\nhalf fill the barrel.\n9. Iron (Wrought), to Polish. Warm goods\ntill they are unbearable to the hand; then rub\nwith new clean white wax. Heat the goods\nagain so that the wax may spread on them; then\nrub them over with a piece of serge.\n10. To Give Iron Articles a Brilliant Luster.\n—Pulverized arseniousacid, Tj^drm.; elutriated\nbloodstone, 7^ oz.; antimony trichloride (but-\nter of antimony), 3% oz. Pour over these ma-\nterials 5 pt. alcohol 90£. Digest at a gentle\nheat, shaking frequently. When iron is pol-\nished with this fluid, it precipitates upon it a\nthin film of antimony and arsenic, which pro-\ntects the iron from oxidation, and also gives it\na fine appeai-ance,\n11. To Make Iron Take a Bright Polish Like\nSteel. Blue vitriol, 13^ oz.; borax, V/ oz.; prus-\nsiate of potash, \\y 2 oz.; charcoal, 1% oz.; salt,\npt. Pulverize, and dissolve in Ij^qt. hot\nwater. Add 1}4 gal. linseed oil; mix well. Bring\nthe iron or steel to the proper heat, and cool\nin this solution.\nIvory, to Polish. Pumice stone and putty\npowder.\nLead, to Polish. Use Jewelers rouge on a\nchamois skin.\nZinc, to Polish. Scrape, and polish with\nVienna lime.\nPolishing the Edges of Leather Straps. First\nyou will want an edge tool. If only a light\nsingle strap, a No. 1 will do, which is run down\nthe edge to take it off and make it round. Next\nrub it down with fine sandpaper; then, if for\nbrown leather, get some good harness black-\ning, put as much as you want to use into\na cup, dissolve some oxalic acid in water, and\npour in as much as will turn it a light brown,\napply it to the edge of the strap, and rub it\ndown with a clean cloth till the edge is smooth\nand glossy. Next you will want a screw crease\n(which you can procure at the tool shops),\nwhich is heated in the fire or gas till it is just hot\nenough to mark the leather without burning-\nit; you can set it with the thumb screw to any\nwidth you like, up to Y 2 in. or in. Lay the\nstrap on a flat piece of planed boai d; then,\nholding the crease firmly in the hand, you run\nit down the strap; alter the width for every\nmark or line.\nMarble. 1. If the piece to be polished is a\nplane surface, it is first rubbed by means of\nanother piece of marble, or hard stone, with the\nintervention of water and two sorts of sand\nfirst with the finest river or drift sand, and\nthen with common house or white sand, which\nlatter leaves the surface sufficiently smooth for\nthe process of gritting. Three sorts of grit\nstone are employed: first, Newcastle grit;\nsecond, a fine grit brought from the neighbor-\nhood of Leeds; and lastly, a still finer, called\nsnake grit, procured at Ayr, in Scotland. These\nare rubbed successively on the surface with\nwater alone; by these means, the surface is\ngradually reduced to closeness of texture, fit-","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0461.jp2"},"458":{"fulltext":"Polishing. 446\nPolishing.\nting it for the process of glazing 1 which is per-\nformed by means of a wooden block having a\nthick piece of woolen stuff wound tightly round\nit; the interstices of the fibers of this are filled\nwith prepared putty powder (peroxide of tin),\nand moistened with water this being laid on\nthe marble and loaded, it is drawn up and down\nthe marble by means of a handle, being oc-\ncasionally wetted, until the desired gloss is\nproduced. The polishing of mouldings is done\nwith the same materials, but with rubbers\nvaried in shape according to that of the mould-\ning. The block is not used in this case; in its\nstead a piece of linen cloth is folded to make a\nhandful; this also contains the putty powder\nand water. Sand rubbers employed to polish a\nslab of large dimensions should never exceed\nof its length nor J of its width; but if the piece\nof marble is small, it may be sanded itself on a\nlarger piece of stone. The grit rubbers are\nnever larger than that they may be easily held\nin one hand; the largest block is about 14 in. in\nlensrth and 4Yz in. in breadth.\n2. Polishing includes 5 operations. Smoothing\nthe roughness left by the burin is done by rub-\nbing the marble with a piece of moist sandstone;\nfor mouldings, either wooden or iron mullers\nare used, crushed and wet sandstone, or sand,\nmore or less fine according to the degree of\npolish required, being thrown under them.\nThe second process is continued rubbing with\npieces of pottery without enamel, which have\nonly been baked once, also wet. If a brilliant\npolish is desired, Gothland stone instead of\npottery is used, and potter s clay or fuller s\nearth is placed beneath the muller. This op-\neration is performed upon granites and por-\nphyry with emery and a leaden muller, the up-\nper part of which is incrusted with the mix-\nture until reduced by friction to clay or an\nimpalpable powder. As the polish depends al-\nmost entirely on these two operations, care\nmust be taken that they are performed with a\nregular and steady movement. When the mar-\nble has received the first polish, the flaws, cav-\nities, and soft spots are sought out and filled\nwith mastic of a suitable color. This mastic is\nusually composed of a mixture of yellow wax,\nrosin, and Burgundy pitch, mixed with a little\nsulphur and plaster passed through a fine\nsieve, which gives it the consistency of a thick\npaste; to color this paste to a tone analogous to\nthe ground tints or natural cement of the ma-\nterial upon which it is placed, lampblack and\nrouge, with a little of the prevailing color of\nthe material, are added. For green or red mar-\nbles, this mastic is sometimes made of lac,\nmixed with Spanish sealing wax of the color of\nthe marble; it is applied hot with pincers, and\nthese parts are polished with the rest. Some-\ntimes crushed fragments of the marble worked\nare introduced into this cement; but for fine\nmarbles, the same colors are employed which\nare used in painting, and which will produce\nthe same tone as the ground; the lac is added\nto give it body and brilliancy. The third ope-\nration of polishing consists in rubbing it again\nwith hard pumice, under which water is con-\nstantly poured, unmixed with sand. For the\nfourth process, called softening the ground, lead\nfilings are mixed with the emery mud produced\nby the polishing of mirrors or the working of\nprecious stones, and the marble is rubbed with\na compact linen cushion, well saturated with\nthis mixture; rouge is also used for this polish.\nFor some outside works, and for hearths and\npaving tiles, marble workers confine themselves\nto this polish. When the marbles have holes or\ngrains, a leaden muller is substituted for the\nlinen cushion. In order to give a perfect\nbrilliancy to the polish, the gloss is applied.\nWell wash the prepared surfaces, and leave\nthem until perfectly dry; then take a linen\ncushion, moistened only with water and a lit-\ntle powder of calcined tin of the first quality.\nAfter rubbing with this for some time, take\nanother cushion of dry rags, rub with it lightly,\nbrush away any foreign substance which\nmight scratch the marble, and a perfect polish\nwill be obtained. A little alum mixed with the\nwater used penetrates the pores of the marble,\nand gives it a speedier polish. This polish spots\nvery easily, and is soon tarnished and destroyed\nby dampness. It is necessary, when purchas-\ning articles of polished marbles, to subject\nthem to the test of water; if there is too much\nalum, the marble absorbs the water, and a\nwhitish spot is left.\n3. To polish imitation marbles, when you\nhave finished marbling, let the work stand for\na day or two then gently rub it down with the\nback or smooth side of a sheet of sandpaper;\nthis will take off the knits or bits of skin which\nmaybe upon it, without scratching it; now\ngive it three coats of the best pale polishing\ncopal varnish, allowing an interval of two day\nafter each coat. Let this stand for three\nweeks then cut it down with ground pumice\nand water, using a piece of wash leather or\nrag for that purpose. When you have got it\ntolerably smooth and level, wash it well with\nplenty of clean water, taking particular care\nto clean off all the pumice give it five coats of\nvarnish. It ought now to stand for three to\nsix months before it is polished, for if it is\ndone before it is almost certain to crack.\nWhen the varnish is sufficiently hard, cut it\ndown with finely ground pumice as before;\nthen use rottenstone and olive oil, Avith the ball\nof the hand; then flour and oil; finish off\nwith dry flour. This takes a deal of time to do\nit properly.\n4. Mr. W. C. Durkee (Boston) gives the fol-\nlowing formula for a marble dressing or polish:\nPure beeswax 10 parts.\nJapan gold size 2 parts.\nSpirits of turpentine 88 parts.\nThe mixture is of creamy consistence, and\nshould be applied in small quantities, with the\naid of a piece of white flannel. If it is desh*ed\nfor use upon white marble, white wax may be\nsubstituted. The same preparation can be\nused to advantage on woodwork. The Japan\nsize prevents the stickiness which exists when\nwax alone is used.\n5. For polishing a Black Marble Clock try\nthe following:\nLinseed oil 4= oz.\nElemi Yz oz.\nMethylated spirit 2 oz.\nTurpentine 5 oz.\nAcetic acid Yz oz.\nWater 3Yz oz.\nDissolve the elemi in the methylated spirit\nand strain. Mix with the oils, and add the\naqueous fluids.\nMetals, Polishing and Finishing of.— We now\ncome to the means adopted for finishing and\npolishing steel and iron. Take, for instance, a\nsurface of steel as an example. The square\nstem of a drilling instrument will form a very\ngood subject. After it is roughed out and the\nwork all done, it must be draw filed, and this\nmust be done with a superfine Lancashire file,\nand the lines must be kept quite straight,\notherwise it will require so much emery paper\nthat the edges will lose the sharp angles which\nare the beauty of the work. Any ordinary\nworkman can rub away with emery paper, but\nin so doing he may spoil the appearance of a\npiece of good work, and that without knowing\nit. To avoid this, the smoother and better it\nis filed the less paper will it require. To get\nthe beautiful finish we see on the best work, a\npiece of flour emery paper, well worn, and a\nlittle oil upon it, will be found the best thing\nto use, and when this has been well worked, to\nget the high polish, a piece of wood flat upon\nthe surface, with some fine crocus, will bring it\nup to this state; and if any deep scratches be\nthere, you wih at once observe them, and to\nremove them, in all probability, it will have to\nbe filed all over again. Now, to avoid all this","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0462.jp2"},"459":{"fulltext":"Polishing.\n447\nPolishing.\nloss of time, great care must be taken that the\nscratches are removed before any attempt is\nmade to polish. Having finished the work so\nfar, many prefer to see it left straight; others,\nagain, like to see it in some way- ornamented.\nN ow, there are several ways of doing this. First,\nthen, to cross the surface. This is done by fold-\ning a piece of emery paper tightly round a\nfile, but the process is not the merely pushing\nit across the wOrk and making a mark, but it\nrequires some practice to produce a good pat-\ntern, and the wrist must take a kind of circular\naction, and by doing this each line becomes, so\nto speak, connected, and makes a much better\nfinish than a series of lines only. Another pro-\ncess of finishing steel is to curl all over the\nsurface with a piece of oil stone that will cut.\nThis is a most difficult thing to obtain, as very\nfew stones will cut steel to leave the bright\nmarks necessary to give it the appearance de-\nsired. When a piece of this is once obtained\nit is really a prize, and if it wears away it may\nbe inserted as far as possible into a wooden\nhandle. To use the stone when it is once ob-\ntained is the next thing. This is done by hold-\ning it firmly in the hand and moving it about\nin all directions, like curling brass. There is\nno stated number or size of the curl, but this\nis quite a matter of taste and must be left to\nthe operator. Another way of finishing iron\nand steel is with the scraper, which is used\nwith both hands, and the work must be scraped\nin various directions, but with regularity.\nLarge surfaces are sometimes done in this way.\nLathe beds are at times done so, but we think\nthis is somewhat out of character, as the fact\nof continually drawing the poppit head up and\ndown the bed produces a series of lines which\nlooks most unsightly. Regarding all this, it is\nall a matter of taste, and the style of finish\nmust be left to the operator. Forge and Lathe.\nPolishing Agents for Metals. Polishing (Putz)\nSoap.— 1. Stir into 37^ lb. of liquid cocoanut\noil soap 3 lb. of tripoli and V/% lb. each alum,\ntartaric acid, and white lead.\n2. Cocoanut oil, 401b., stirred into 20 lb. of lye\nof 38° to 40°. When the mixture is bright add\n5 lb. colcothar, mixed with 5 lb. of water. Put\nin finally 2 oz. 1 drm. of spirit of sal ammoniac.\n3. Shave finely 11 lb. cocoanut soap, add some\nwater and melt. Add 13 oz. 2 drms. of chalk; 6\noz. 4 drm. each of alum, tartaric acid and white\nlead. Stir vigorously.\nPolishing Powder.— 1. Carbonate magnesia,\n5 lb.; calcium carbonate, 51b.; ferric oxide, 8%\nlb.; mix thoroughly.\n2. Carbonate magnesia, 51b.; elutriated col-\ncothar, 6 oz. 7 drm.\n3. A very useful polishing powder for metals\nand glass is made of very fineiy ground glass\nmixed with a small proportion of dried soda\nash.\nMetals.— 1. The method generally employed by\nmachinists in grinding and polishing either new\nor old work is to mix the polishing material\nwith oil, usually refuse machinery oil in most\ncases this is a great mistake, and has caused\nthe loss of time, patience and money. Take,\nfor instance, the grinding to a true bearing of\na stopcock, a valve seat, or a slide valve.\nThere are few machinists but what have had\nmore or less of that class of work to do, partic-\nularly in jobbing shops, and we seldom find one\nwho uses the same method of accomplishing\nthe iob that is practiced in shops where that\nclass of work is made a specialty. In fitting\nand grinding the plug into the barrel of a\ncock, a little judgment and care will save a\ngreat deal of hard labor, and in no case should\noil be mixed with any of the grinding mate-\nrial, for the following reasons If fine emery,\nground glass, or sand is used with oil, it re-\nquires but a few turns of the plug in the bar-\nrel to break up the grains of the grinding ma-\nterial into very fine particles; the metallic\nsurfaces also grind off, and the fine particles of\nmetal, mixing in with the grinding material\nand oil, make a thick paste of the mass. At\nthis stage it is impossible to grind or bring the\nmetallic surfaces to a bearing, as the gluey\npaste keeps them apart if more grinding stuif\nis applied, it will prevent the operator from\nseeing what part of the barrel and plug bears\nthe hardest. Again, if the grinding material\nbe distributed over the whole surface, the parts\nthat do not bear will grind off as fast as the\nparts that touch hard, as the particles work\nfreely between the surfaces; should the bar-\nrel and plug bear equally all over when fitted,\nit requires more care than if it were a top or\nbottom bearing, as that part of the barrel and\nplug across the waterway grinds twice as fast\nas the other parts therefore it should be kept\nthe driest. Now this objection holds good in\nthe grinding of valve seats or slide valves, to\nwit the separation of the surfaces of the\nmetal by a thick, pasty, grinding material. In\norder to bring the surfaces to a perfect bear-\ning rapidly and with little labor, the following\ndirections will be found worth a trial To grind\na stopcock of any kind, first see that the plug\nfits the barrel before it is taken from the\nlathe. Run a half round smooth file up and\ndown the barrel to break any rings that may\nbe in it a few rubs of a smooth file back and\nforth over the plug will break any rings or\ntool marks on it. Wipe both parts clean.\nUse for grinding material fine moulders sand\nsifted through a fine sieve. Mix with water in a\ncup, and apply a small quantity to the parts\nthat bear the hardest. Turn rapidly, press-\ning gently every few turns if the work is\nlarge and the lathe is used, run slowly; press\nand pull back rapidly to prevent sticking and\nringing; apply grinding sand and water until\na bearing shows on another part, then use no\nmore new sand, but spread the old that has\nworked out over the whole surface. Turn rap-\nidly, pressing gently while turning; withdraw\nthe plug and wipe part of the dirt off, and rub\non the place a little brown soap; moisten with\nwater and press the surfaces together with all\nthe force at hand, turning at the same time.\nRemove the plug and wipe both parts clean\nnext try the condition of the bearing by press-\ning the dry surfaces together with great force.\nIf the parts have been kept closely together\nwhile grinding, and the plug has not rubbed\nagainst the lower part of the barrel, the sur-\nfaces will be found bright all over and a per-\nfect bearing obtained. If an iron barrel and a\nbrass plug are used, or two kinds of brass, a\nhard and soft metal, soap should be used free-\nly when finishing up, as the tendency to form\nrings is greater when two different metals are\nused.\n2. In grinding a slide valve which has been\nin use until hollow places have worn in the\nsurface, emery mixed with water, or sand and\nwater, will be found better than oil, unless a\nlight body of oil, such as kerosene, is used. If\nwater is used with the grinding material, soap\nshould be rubbed on hollow places, and the\ngrinding stuff should be applied to the high parts\nin small quantities, keeping the low parts clean\nand dry until an even surface is obtained all\nover then the worn out stutf should be used\nfor finishing up. In polishing metal, oil that\nwill gum up should not be used with the pol-\nishing material unless for a dead fine polish.\n3. In polishing old brass work which has been\nscratched and tarnished by wear, pumice or\nbathbrick should be used with soap and water\nfor scouring off with, and rottenstone with\nkerosene oil for the wet finish, and dry for\nthe final polish. The same method should be\nused for new brasswork. New work should re-\nquire, after leaving the lathe and vise tools,\nbut little polishing or grinding, and every good\nworkman should try to avoid using an emery\nstick or emery cloth, as with proper care in the\nuse of tools a great deal of grinding and pol-\nishing can be dispensed with. The polishing of\nmetals varies somewhat according to their","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0463.jp2"},"460":{"fulltext":"Polishing.\n448\nPolishing.\ncharacter, but the main principal underlying\nall is the substitution of progressively finer\nscratches for those left by the material last\nused, until they become so delicate as to be in-\nvisible without the aid of a microscope.\nNails, to Polish. See Nails.\nNickel, Paste for Polishing.— Use chalk mixed\nwith tallow.\nNickel Plated Goods, to Clean.— 1. Ordinary\nrouge is used by nickel platers. The following\nis excellent: Take equal parts of precipitated\niron carbonate and prepared chalk, or take\nquicksilver with chalk oz., and prepared\nchalk 2 oz.; mix them. When used, add a small\nquantity of alcohol, and rub with chamois\nleather.\n2. Rouge with a little fresh lard or lard oil,\non a wash leather or piece of buckskin. Rub\nthe bright parts, using as little of the rouge and\noil as possible wipe off with a clean rag slight-\nly oiled. Repeat the wiping every day, and\npolishing as often as necessary.\nPolishing Powder, the Parisian.— Mix together\n5 parts jewelers 1 red and 30 parts carbonate of\nmagnesia. Use with alcohol.\nPearl, to Polish.— Add olive oil to finely pul-\nverized rottenstone, so as to make a thick\npaste. Then add sulphuric acid in sufficient\nquantity to make a thin paste. Apply this\npaste and rub quickly with a cork covered with\nvelvet, and, as soon as the pearl takes the pol-\nish, wash off. This is a fine polish.\n2. (Jo over it with pumice stone finely pow-\ndered, washed to separate the impurities and\ndirt, with which polish it very smooth; then\napply putty powder and water by a rubber,\nwhich will produce a fine gloss and good color.\nPewter.— The burnishing of pewter articles is\ndone after the work has been turned or finished\noff with a scraper. The burnishers are of dif-\nferent kinds, for burnishing articles either by\nhand or in the lathe; they are all of steel, and\nwhile in use are rubbed with putty powder on\nleather, and moistened with soapsuds.\nPiano Keys, to Polish.— The frame would not\nhold the keys sufficiently level or firm. A bet-\nter way would be to hand screw a few at a time\non a board, and scrape them in that position.\nThey should be finished with flour paper, care\nbeing taken that they do not get too hot dur-\ning the process. Unless the keys are very hol-\nlow or much discolored, it would perhaps be\nbetter to dispense with the scraper altogether,\nusing a coarser glasspaper in its stead. They\nshould be polished singly, on a board covered\nwith several thicknesses of cloth; this should\nbe placed on a bench, and the ivories vigorously\nrubbed, lengthwise and face downward, until\na good polish is obtained. Putty powder is the\nbest polishing material, though pumice might\nfirst be used to take out any mar-ks left by the\npaper. A very brilliant polish may be got by\nfinishing the keys with a similar board covered\nwith wash leather, and sprinkled with rouge.\nA liberal supply of water is necessary during\nthe process.\nPlaster of Paris Work, to Polish.— Add to the\ngypsum 1 or 2% of alum, sulphate of potash or\nborax. The gypsum will set slowly, and is\ncapable of receiving a high polish.\nPlate Powders.-l. Take equal parts precipi-\ntated subcarbonate of iron and prepared chalk.\n2. An impalpable rouge may be prepared by\ncalcining the oxalate of iron.\n3. Take quicksilver with chalk, H oz., and\nprepared chalk, 2 oz.; mix them. When used,\nadd a small quantity of spirits of wine, and rub\nwith chamois leather. Not recommended.\n4. Put sulphate of iron into a large tobacco\npipe place it in a fire for a quarter of an hour;\nmix with a small quantity of powdered chalk.\nThis powder should be used dry.\n5. The following makes a liquid polish for\nsilver plate: Three to 4 drm. cyanide of potas-\nsium, b to 10 grn. nitrate of silver, and 4 oz. of\nwater; apply with a soft brush, wash the object\nthoroughly with water, dry with a soft linen\nI cloth, and polish with cbamois skin. Neither\nwhiting nor powder of any kind should be used\nfor cleaning and polishing— they only waste\nand scratch the silver.\n6. Take 2 oz. hartshorn powder and boil it in\n1 pint water; soak small squares of damask\ncloth in the liquid, hang them up to dry, and\nthey will be ready for use, and better than any\npowders.\n7. Add by degrees 8 oz. prepared chalk in fine\npowder to a mixture of 2 oz. spirits of turpen-\ntine, 1 oz. alcohol, ]4 oz. spirits of camphor,\nand 2 drm. aqua ammonia; apply with a sponge,\nand allow it to dry before polishing.\n8. Mix together 1 oz. fine chalk, 2 oz. cream\nof tartar, 1 oz. rottenstone, 1 oz. red lead, and\noz. alum; pulverize thoroughly in a mortar.\nWet the mixture, rub it on the silver, and,\nwhen dry, rub off with a dry flannel, or clean\nwith a small brush.\n9. An excellent preparation for polishing\nplate may be made in the following manner\nMix together 4 oz. spirits of turpentine, 2 oz.\n90% alcohol, 1 oz. spirits of camphor, and y%\noz. spirits of ammonia. To this add 1 lb. whit-\ning, finely powdered, and stir till the whole is\nof the consistency of thick cream. To use this\npreparation with a clean sponge, cover the\nsilver with it, so as to give it a coat like white-\nwash. Set the silver aside till the paste has\ndried into a powder; then brush it off, and\npolish with chamois leather. A cheaper kind\nmay be made by merely mixing 90$ alcohol\nand whiting together.\nFrench Plate Powder.— i. Mix jewelers 1 rouge\nwith carbonate of magnesia, 1 to 12.\n2. Putty powder finely powdered, 2 oz.; levi-\ngated chalk, 10 oz.\n3. Equal parts common salt, alum, cream of\ntartar; dissolve in hot water and boil the plate\nin it.\nPutz Pomade.— I. In 100 lb. common yellow\nvaseline, melted, stir 20 lb. of fine colcothar.\n2. Same as above, only using lard instead of\nvaseline.\n3. 20 lb. of Am. mineral oil and 5 lb. of lard are\nmelted and 251b. of fine colcothar are stirred in.\n4. The following is given as the formula for\ngenuine putz pomade\nOxalic acict 1 part.\nOxide of iron 25 parts.\nRottenstone 20 parts.\nPalm oil 60 parts.\nVaseline 4 parts.\nThe oxide of iron may be Venetian red.\nBoth it and the rottenstone must be absolutely\nfree from grit. Oxalic acid is poisonous.\nQuartz, etc., Polishing. To get a fine polish on\nsuch stones as quartz, granite, etc., grind the\nsurface on a grindstone, the last grinding\nbeing very light, and then rub with ground\npumice stone and water on the end of a piece\nof wood or on a piece of sole leather, finish-\ning with a piece of sole leather with oxide\nof tin or rouge, wet. The same process will\nanswer for polishing geological specimens, such\nas coral, onyx, jasper, etc. A piece of felt or\nheavy woolen cloth tacked on a board also\nmakes a good polisher. An ordinary lapidary^\noutfit consists of appliances not usually kept on\nsale, but which any machine shop can readily\nfurnish. You will need a frame with wheel\nshaft and spindle, with several lead laps, one\nfor coarse and one for fine emery, and one or\nmore for polishing, also a lap made with end\nwood on a chuck for polishing, and a leather\npolisher, desirable for rounded work. A thin\ndisk of copper mounted on ordinary lathe spin-\ndle is used for slitting with emery. In using\ndiamond dust, which is employed in working\non diamonds, and in some other cases, a sheet\nsteel disk, very thin, should be used.\nHags, Polisliing.— Saturate woolen stuff with\na solution composed of 3 oz. 4 drm. of Castile\nsoap dissolved in 14 oz. water. To this solu-\ntion add 22 drm. tripoli. Color with coralline.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0464.jp2"},"461":{"fulltext":"Polishing:.\nShells, to Polish.— 1. Boil in a strong solution of\npotash; then polish with hydrochloric acid and\nputty powder.\n2. Clean the surface with hydrochloric acid\nuntil the outer skin is removed Wash in warm\nwater, dry in sawdust and polish with chamois\nskin. If the shell is destitute of natural luster,\nrub with tripoli powder and turpentine applied\nwith a chamois skin, and finally finish with\nolive oil.\nSee also Tortoise Shell.\nShells, to Prepare and Polish.— 1. Porcelainous\nshells are so hard as to require the apparatus\nof a lapidary to cut or polish them, but they\nare generally so smooth as to require no rough\ngrinding. They may be polished by using a\nfelt wheel and applying putty powder. Na-\ncreous shells or those of the pearl variety may\nbe filed and cut without a great deal of diffi-\nculty. Pieces to be turned are first roughly\nshaped on the grindstone, then turned and\npolished with pumice stone, putting on the final\npolish with rottenstone. Irregularly shaped\npieces are filed and ground, then smoothed\nwith pumice stone and water, and finished\nwith rottenstone. The rottenstone is some-\ntimes mixed with sulphuric acid full strength,\nor slightly diluted, to heighten the polish.\n2. Rough shells are polished by first grinding\nthem on a coarse stone, then smoothing them\nwith pumice stone and water on a buffer wheel\nor with a hand polisher, and finishing with\nrottenstone.\nShow Cases, to Polish.— A good polishing pow-\nder consists of rock alum, burned and finely\npowdered, 5 parts; levigated chalk, 1 part; mix.\nApply with a dry brush.\nSilver Plated Ware, Polish for. 1. Dissolve 2\ndrm. potassium cyanide and 5 grn. silver\nnitrate in 2 oz. water. Apply with a soft brush;\ndry with a cloth and with chamois skin.\n2. A thin coating of collodion may be used\nto prevent tarnish where silver is to be stored\nfor any length of time.\nSilverware, to Clean.— Use any of the powders\ngiven below or the liquid polishes also given.\nIt should be remembered that every polish re-\nmoves a portion of silver, so that cleaning\nshould be resorted to only when absolutely\nnecessary. See also Soaps, Silver.\n1. Caustic ammonia, 5 parts water, 200 parts\nsodium hyposulphite, 20 parts; ammonium\nchloride, 10 parts.\n2. Sodium hyposulphite has been recommend-\ned by Messrs. Tiffany Co. Use with water.\n3. Have ready a basin containing equal parts\noil of vitriol and water, make the article white in\na gas flame (not white heat, but a snowy white,\nwhich it will assume after exposure to the\nflame), then plunge it into the pickle, and there\nleave it for one half hour, then dry in box\ndust. Applies to solid ware only.\n4. Heat to a dull red (if there is no lead pres-\nent), allow to cool, and when cold boil in a\npickle of water acidulated with sulphuric acid\n(30 water, 1 acid) until perfectly white; take\nout, swill in clean water, and burnish the prom-\ninent parts; dry in hot boxwood sawdust.\n5. Commence by cleaning off any kind of dirt\nwhich the surfaces of the silver articles had\ncontracted while making, as that would en-\ntirely spoil the burnishing. For this purpose,\ntake pumice powder, and with a brush, made\nvery wet in strong soapsuds, rub the various\nparts of the work, even those parts which are\nto remain dull, which, nevertheless, receive\nthus a beautiful white appearance wipe with\nan old linen cloth, and proceed to the burnish-\ning.\n6. A few drops of nitrobenzol are added to 40\nparts vaseline (common) 50 parts of whiting\nare now stirred in together with 10 of burnt\nhartshorn and 10 parts of very finely powdered\ncuttlebone mix thoroughly.\n7. Finest whiting, 15 parts; soda, 1% parts;\ncitric acid, part. Reduce to a fine powder.\nUse by moistening the powder with water.\n449 Polishing;.\n8. Use a burnisher wet with soap- water. Sil-\nver can also be polished with Vienna lime.\n9. Silver Polishing (Putz) Pomade. —Mix thor-\noughly 4^ parts vaseline with a few drops of\nessence of mirbane (nitrobenzole) Add to this\nby stirring 7M parts elutriated chalk, 1}/% parts\nburnt hartshorn, V/% part pulverized ossa se-\npia (cuttle bone). The mixture should be of\nthe consistency of butter.\n10. Half lb. fine chalk, 3 oz. pipe clay, 2 oz.\nwhite lead, oz. magnesia (carbonate), and the\nsame quantity of jeweler s rouge.\nSilver Soap.— 11. A good article may be made\nas follows\nHard soap 8 oz.\nTurpentine. 1^ oz.\nWater 4 oz.\nBoil until perfectly dissolved and\nadd—\nLiquor of Ammonia 3 oz.\n12. Silver Soap (English).— Dissolve 10 parts\nfine Castile soap in 10 parts water. Remove\nfrom the fire and stir in 30 parts fine whiting.\n2. Prepare the same as the above, using in-\nstead of the whiting 10 parts tripoli, 5 parts of\nrouge, 15 parts of pulverized chalk.\nSlate Polishing.— Slate is faced first with an\niron plate with river sand and water, smoothed\nwith pumice stone; then japanned and baked\nto harden the japan, and again smoothed with\npumice stone and polished with rottenstone.\nSoaps, Polishing.— 1. Mix 1 lb. oxalate of iron\n(calcined) with 5 lb. cocoanut oil soap.\n2. Ten lb. tripoli, 5 lb. of alum, 5 lb. white\nlead, tartaric acid, 5 lb., and 100 to 125 lb li-\nquid cocoanut oil soap.\nSpecula, Polishing Powder for (Lord Ross).—\nPrecipitate a dilute solution of sulphate of\niron, by ammonia in excess; wash the precipi-\ntate, press in screw press until nearly dry, then\nexpose to heat until it appears a dull red color\nin the dark.\nSteel, to Polish. See Iron and Steel above.\nSteel, to Polish.— Wet Vienna lime to a paste.\nApply to buff, and finish dry.\nSteel, Glaze Wheels for Finishing.— For hollow\nfinishing, the following wheels are required\nA mahogany wheel for rough glazing. A ma-\nhogany wheel for smooth glazing. A lead\nwheel, or lap. For flat finishing: A buff\nwheel for rough. A buff wheel for smooth. A\nbuff wheel for finishing. Lastly, a polisher.\nTo make the giaze wheels Get the spindles,\nand point them on each end then get a block\nof beech and wedge it on the steel at one end\nwith iron wedges; and turn it for the pulley for\nthe band to run on. Take two pieces of flat\nmahogany and glue and screw them together,\nso that the grain of one piece crosses the\nother, to prevent warping. Let it get\nthoroughly dry, and wedge it on the spindle\nand turn it true. The lead wheel is made the\nsame way but wider, and has a groove turned\nin the edge. The wheel is put into sand, and a\nring of lead run round the edge it is then\nturned true. To make the buff wheels, proceed\nas with the glaze; but to save expense, pineor\ndeal wood will do as well as mahogany, only\nleave it about double the width of the glaze,\nwhich is about 14 in. wide by 12 or 14 in. across.\nThe buff wheels are covered with glue, and\nthen the leather is tacked on with tacks driven\nin about half way, so that they may be easily\ndrawn out again. The leather is then turned\ntrue. The polisher is made the same way, but\nthe size of the polisher must be a little less\nthan any of the other wheels, say about 1 in.\nThe buff wheels are dressed by laying on a fine\nthin coat of clear glue, and rolling them round\n—No. 1, in superfine corn emery No. 2, in\nsmooth emery; No. 3, by making a cake of\nequal parts of mutton suet, beeswax, and\nwashed emery then it is held on the wheel\nwhile it is going round. The glaze wheels are\ndressed while using, by mixing a little of the\nemery with oil, and putting it on the wheel","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0465.jp2"},"462":{"fulltext":"Polishing.\n450\nPolishing.\nwith a stick or the finger. The leather of the\npolisher is not covered with glue, but dressed\nwith a mixtnre of crocus and water, not oil.\nCare must be taken to keep each wheel and\nsubstance to themselves the work must be\ncarefully wiped after each operation, and\ncleanliness must be studied above all things in\nusing the polisher, as the slightest grease\ngetting on it stops the polishing.\nStones, to Cut and Polish.— You will need a\nthin copper disk about 6 in. diameter, made to\nrevolve rapidly on a spindle. With No. 90 to\n100 emery and water liberahy fed to the wheel,\nyou will be able to slab any specimens of rocks\nor minerals of ordinary hardness. You will\nalso need a grindstone to flatten the surfaces\nfor polishing. A lap of lead is used with fine\nemery, and another of wood faced with leather\nor felt fed with a cream of rouge and water.\nThe laps should run at a speed of 150 and may\nbe 10 or 12 in. diameter, the specimens being\nheld on their face with the hand. For a less\nexpensive arrangement for surfacing only a\ngood stone and a piece of sole leather nailed to\na board, with the whole manipulation made\nby hand, will make satisfactory work with\namateurs.\nSurfaces, Polishing Finished.— Oil is usually\nemployed for polishing delicate instruments,\nwhich tends to soil those using them. Oil may\nbe advantageously replaced by a mixture of\nthree parts of glycerine and one of alcohol for\nlarge surfaces. When small ones are to be\ntreated, pure glycerine can be used. Revue\nScientifique.\nTin, to Polish.— 1. Vienna lime applied with a\nlinen rag.\n2. Use whiting and water with a chamois\nskin.\n3. A fine finish can be given to tin by bur-\nnishing, the burnisher being wet ox-gall dilu-\nted with water. Wash with water containing\na trace of tartar and dry.\nTortoise Shell. Having scraped the work\nperfectly smooth and level, rub it with very fine\nsand paper or Dutch rushes repeat the rub-\nbing with a bit of felt dipped in very finely\npowdered charcoal with water, and lastly with\nrottenstone or putty powder, and finished\nwith a piece of soft wash leather, damped with\na little sweet oil or still better, rub it with\nsubnitrate of bismuth by the palm of the hand.\nVulcanite, Polishing. 1. Remove scratches\nwith a smooth wet water of Ayr stone, and\nthen polish in the lathe with fine pumice and a\nstiff brush. After washing the pumice off,\npolish it with whiting and soft brush.\n2. The mathematical instrument makers treat\nit; as brass— that is, for flat work they first use\nwater of Ayr stone, and then rottenstone and\noil. Turned work is polished in the lathe\nwith rottenstone and oil, taking care not to\nuse too high a speed, which would heat the\nwork. Some use lampblack and oil to finish\nwith where a very high polish is wanted, or the\nbare palm of the hand, as in getting up silver\nplate. Chain and ornament makers use circu-\nlar buffs for their flat work, made of sea horse\nleather, and for work of irregular forms, buffs\nof calico.\nWater Polishing.— Whiting, 9 oz. 5 drm.; alco-\nhol, 1 lb.; ammonia, 1 oz. 3 drm. Shake well\ntogether.\nWheels, Polishing.— Turn some wood wheels of\nvarious sizes, and cover them on the face and\nedge with leather of various qualities; wash\nleather for use with rouge and a coarser kind\nfor use with emery, pumice, etc. The leather\ncan be fastened with glue. The best wheels\nare made by punching disks of leather, cloth,\netc., and then screwing these disks tightly to-\ngether on a mandril; but these take a large\nquantity of material. Some things can be\npolished very well with plain wood wheel.\nSmall glass grinding jobs, for instance, can be\neasily polished with two wood wheels, one for\npumice and water and another for rouge and\nwater. Make your wheels size and shape to\nsuit the work you have in hand. A few circu-\nlar brushes are very usef ui.\nWindow Polishing Paste is made of 90 parts\nprepared chalk, and 5 parts each of white bole\nand Armenian bole, rubbed together into a\nsmooth paste with 50 parts water and 25 parts\nalcohol. This paste is to be rubbed on the win-\ndow, allowed to dry, and then rubbed off with\ncloths.— Pharm. Era.\nPolishing Wood.—l. Polishing Black Wood-\nwork.— Procure 2)4 oz. 90$ alcohol, 1 dr. oil\nof almonds, 1 dr. gum elemi, l 2 oz. orange shel-\nlac, pounded fine and put together in a bottle\nto dissolve; when dissolved rub on with white\nwadding.\n2. Orange shellac, 2 oz.; wood naphtha, y% pt.;\nbenzoin, 2 dr. Mix and put in warm place for\na week and keep the materials from settling\nby shaking it up. To apply it, after having\nprepared your wood by rubbing some raw lin-\nseed oil into it and then wiping it well off\nagain, make a rubber of cotton wool and put\nsome old calico over the face, and till you have\na good body on your wood keep the rubber\nwell saturated with polish. When your rubber\nsticks, put a very little linseed oil on and rub\nyour polish up. Allow it to stand a few hours\nand give it another coat, using rather more lin-\nseed oil on your rubber, so as to get a finer\npolish. Then let it stand again and finish off\nwith spirits of naphtha, if you can; if not,\nadd a small quantity of polish to your spirit.\nCarved Cabinet Work.— Dissolve 2 oz. seed\nlac and 2 oz. white resin in lpt. 90$ alcohol.\nThis must be laid on warm, and if the work\ncan be warmed also, it will be so much the bet-\nter; at any i-ate, moisture and dampness must\nbe avoided. Used with a brush for standards\nor pillars of cabinet work. The carved parts\nof cabinet work are also polished thus Var-\nnish the parts with the common wood varnish,\nand having dressed them off where necessary\nwith emery paper, apply the polish used for\nthe other parts of the work.\nPolish for Fine Carved Wood.— Take 8 oz.\nlinseed oil, 8 oz. old ale, the white of an egg,\n1 oz. spirit, 1 oz. hydrochloric acid. To be well\nshaken before using. A little is to be applied\nto the face of a soft linen pad and lightly\nrubbed for a minute or two over the article to\nbe restored, which must afterward be polished\noff with an old silk handkerchief. This will\nkeep any length of time, if well corked.\nCopal Polish.— Melt with gentle heat finely\npowdered gum copal, 4 parts, and gum cam-\nphor, 1 part, with ether to form a semi-fluid\nmass, and then digest with a sufficient quantity\nof alcohol.\nFor Darkening Furniture.— 1. One pint linseed\noil, 1 oz. rose pink, 1 oz. alkanet root, beaten\nup in a metal mortar let the mixture stand for\na day or two; then pour off the oil, which will\nbe found of a rich color.\n2.— Or, mix 1 oz. alkanet root with 4 oz. shel-\nlac varnish, 2 oz. turpentine, 2 oz. scraped bees-\nwax and 1 pt. linseed oil; this should stand a\nweek.\nPolishing Deal.— 1. To as much yellow ocher as\nyou can take in your hand add H teaspoonful\nof Venetian red. Mix to the thickness of paint\n(or rather thinner) with glue size. Let the\nmixture simmer for some time in a pan, keep-\ning it well stirred. Apply with a brush, and\nwhen dry run it over with fine sandpaper\nand polish with French polish, or, if preferred,\nturpentine and beeswax. If a deeper color is\nrequired, add more Venetian red.\n2. Melt about ]4 lb. Russian glue in 1 qt.\nwater; grind in some Venetian red until suffi-\nciently colored; give the wood a coat with a\nbrush when dry.\nEbony, to Polish.— Give the work two coats\nof fine copal varnish and rub this down (when\ndry) quite smooth with fine pumice stone; put\non a third coat of the same and rub down\nwith rottenstone; clean and put on a flowing","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0466.jp2"},"463":{"fulltext":"Polishing.\n451\nPolishing,\ncoat of best spirit copal varnish, and when this\nhas become quite dry, polish with chamois skin\nand the palm of the hand.\nEbony.— Add J4 oz. best drop black to V6 gill\nFrench polish. A little of the drop black may\nbe used on the inside rubber, but covered twice\nwith linen rag 1\nTo Put an Egg Shell Polish on Wood.— Three\nparts shellac, 1 part gum mastic and 1 part\nsandarac gum dissolved together in 40 parts\nalcohol form a beautiful polish; apply with\nbrush or rag.\nBlack and Gold Work.— 1. The work to be\npolished and gilt must be stained with black\nstain; when quite dry, give a very weak solu-\ntion of glue size, sandpaper smooth. Care must\nbe used not to remove the black stain with the\npaper. The part to be gilt must not be touched\nwith the size, or the gold will not adhere so\nwell; polish the part not to be gilt according to\ndirections given for French polishing, using\nthe black polish drop black; when the work is\npolished ready for spiriting off, lay the work\non a table in a warm room, procure a portion\nof the best oil gold size, pour in a cup; with a\nvery fine stiff brush lay a thin even coat of gold\nsize on the work, let the gold size dry for two\nhours till it becomes tacky; then having the\ngold leaf ready, with great care lay a leaf (or\npart of a leaf, as required) on the cushion, cut\nto size required with the tip; lay the gold leaf\non the sized work; then with a pad made of\nwhite wadding press the gold leaf in the crev-\nices, blow off surplus leaf; let it stand aside to\ndry; when quite dry, polish gently with a very\nsmooth bone, pointed (or a dog s tooth is best),\nfixed in a handle. Surplus parts and the edges\nshould be cleaned off evenly afterward. Finish\nthe black work off with spirits. Very fine\ncrevices may have gold leaf rubbed in with a\nbrush, if used carefully, then blow off surplus\nparts. For commoner work, gold paint laid on\nwith a brush answers very well.\n2. White and Gold.— Brackets, console tables,\nwhatnots, chairs, and other furniture, are fre-\nquently done in white and gold. The grain of\nthe wood should first be filled in with whiting\nand glue size, one or two coats well papered off\nand white polished, but the wood should not be\nfinished off with spirits until gilt, leaving the\nlast coat to be done when the gilding is finished;\nthe gilding is done as in 1.\n3. A cheaper mode, and much easier for the\namateur First well clean the article (if not\nnew) with soda and water; when dry, scrape\nand smooth all over, stop up cracks with white\nlead and driers, one of driers to two of white\nlead; mix some good white paint made of turps,\ndriers, and white lead, not oil. Give the article\nthree coats, rubbing down the first coat when\n■dry with pumice and water; when the third\ncoat of paint is quite dry, proceed to gild as be-\nfore described, using either gold leaf or gold\npaint; when so done, give the gold a coat of\ntransparent enamel varnish, after which var-\nnish the white work with clear copal varnish.\nGive the work two coats; it will set in a day.\nSmall boxes and other fancy articles may be\ndone by this process.\n4. One pt. linseed oil, 1 oz. alkanet root, J4 oz.\nrose pink, boil for J4 hour, strain through\nmuslin so that the oil may be clear; to use\nit pour a little oil on flannel; rub briskly.\nAfter two or three applications, the effect will\nbe apparant.\n5. One pt. best vinegar, 1 pt. linseed oil, 2 oz.\ngum arabic finely powdered; mix in a clean\nbottle for use. Requires no rubbing, merely\nlaying on with a clean rubber of flannel.\n6. One-quarter lb. beeswax melted in an\nearthenware pot, add gradually pt. turps,\ncolored with y% oz. alkanet root, add pt. lin-\nseed oil; well mix, and keep in wide mouth\nbottles for use. The bottles should be kept\nwell corked. To use, wipe the dust from the\nfurniture, apply a portion of the polish on a\nclean rubber of flannel, rub every part ac-\ncessible, briskly finish off with an old silk hand-\nkerchief. This polish should not be used on\nnew articles; it merely restores a gloss on old\npolished furniture.\n7. One-half pt. rectified wood naphtha, \\Yz oz.\nshellac, y± oz. benzoin; crush the gum, mix in\na bottle; when dissolved it is ready for use.\nKeep on a shelf in a warm room until dissolved.\n8. Put 2 drm. shellac and 2 drm. gum benzoin\ninto y pt. best rectified 90$ alcohol in a bot-\ntle closely corked; keep the bottle in a Avarm\nplace and shake frequently until the gums are\ndissolved; when cold add 2 teaspoonfuls clean\npoppy oil; well shake it and it is fit for use.\nThis finish can be caref uily laid with a soft rub-\nber or hair brush.\nDry Shining.— This is a new system of polish-\ning or shining called the American system, and\nis used mostly for American black walnut.\nFirst oil, fill in then with a wet rubber passed\nsmartly over the work straight from end to\nend until a shine or gloss appears. No oil to\nbe used in the rubber, and no spiriting off is\nrequired. Be careful to dry rubber well, and\nhave the work free from rubber marks. This\nsystem is becoming very popular in the trade.\nA Good Polish for Walking Canes and Other\nHard Wood.— The following process gives the\nmost satisfactory and hardest finished surface.\nFill with best clear filler or with shellac; dry\nby heat rub down with pumice then put on\nthree coats of clear spirit copal varnish, hard-\nening each in an oven at a temperature as hot\nas the wood and gum will safely stand. For\nextra work, the first two coats may be rubbed\ndown and the last allowed a flowing coat. For\ncolored grounds, alcoholic shellac varnish with\nany suitable pigment (very finely ground in)\ncan generally be used to advantage.\nFrench polishing is the name given to the\nart of coating wood with a fine, smooth, glossy\nsurface or varnish of shellac and various other\ngums, which are easily soluble in 90$ alco-\nhol, methylated spirits, or wood naphtha. A\nvarnish is thus produced, but if it is applied\nsimply with a brush, as copal, mastic, and most\nother varnishes are applied, the result is a very\nbroken and uneven surface instead of a smooth\nand continuous polish. To obtain a good polish\nwith a lac varnish on wood it is necessary to\napply a very small quantity at once, and to\nrub it continuously until it dries; when this\nprocess has been carefully and properly gone\nthrough, the result is a beautiful and even sur-\nface, which is not to be surpassed or even\nequaled by any other means.\nBubbers.— The small pliable rubbers employed\nfor doing carved framework, etc., are usually\nmade of white wadding and the large round\nones used for surface work are mostly formed\nof soft flannel. The latter kind must be firmly\nmade; and the more they possess such qualifi-\ncations as proper size and solidity, the more\nquickly and satisfactorily will they polish ex-\ntensive suf aces.\nBags.— Fine linen makes the best rubber cov-\nerings and spiriting cloths, but cheap cotton\nwill answer nearly as well. Both stuffs are pre-\nferred after having been used and washed\nseveral times. The way to wash them is\nto boil them first in a strong lye of potash,\nand then in a week one of soap powder, suffer-\ning each boiling to be succeeded by a thorough\nrinsing in clean water.\nWettings.— Some workmen wet the soles of\ntheir rubbers, by dipping into a saucer con-\ntaining the preparation, and others by holding\ntheir bottles upside down, allowing the polish\nto shower through the drilled punctures of the\nstopples. Care should be taken not to soak the\nrubber too much by either means; and after\nwetting and covering, the sole ought always\nto be pressed forcibly upon the palm of the\nhand so as to equalize the moisture.\nBubbings.— Invariably on beginning with a\nnewly wetted rubber, gently and regularly\nsweep the suj^face from end to end in the run-","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0467.jp2"},"464":{"fulltext":"Polishing.\n452\nPolishing.\nning direction of the fiber three successive\ntimes; then rub across the grain with a semi-\ncircular motion, till the polishing- tool becomes\ndry. This operation is of course repeated\nuntil the whole surface of the pores is no longer\nvisible. The work so treated is now to be left in a\nclean apartment for a period of twelve hours,\nthis being the time required for the complete\nabsorption of the first body.\nThe sinking period having expired, the work\nis smoothed, dusted, etc., and then the polish-\ning of it is recommenced. The first sweepings\nare similar to those described in the preceding\nembodying, after which ply the rubber wholly\nwith a rotatory movement, leaning lightly on\nit at first, and slightly increasing the necessary\npressure toward the drying of it, which is\nfinally accomplished by sweeping once or twice\nalong the grain, expressly to remove any marks\nthat may have been caused by the cross or\nround rubbings.\nIn these manipulations it is much better to\nuse freely extended motions than contracted\nones; therefore the mechanical movements of\nthe arm must on no account be confined.\nWipe all the dust off your work at each re-\ncommencement. Allow every embodying a\nproper time to absorb and harden, previous to\nthe reapplication of smoothing stuffs or\npolishes. Cover your rubber with a clean part\nof the rag at each wetting. Carefully guard\nagainst working your implement too long in\none direction, and leaning too heavily on it\nwhen it is very wet, else you will be apt to pro-\nduce coarse marks and streaky roughness.\nRubber marks may be removed by then-\nbeing reversely rubbed with a heavily pressed\nhalf dry rubber.\nIn polishing a very large surface, such as the\ntop of a dining table, do only one-half at a time.\nInspiriting, the finishing spirit should not be\nused in excess, because it dissolves a portion of\nthe resinous or gummy body, and thereby\ncauses dimness instead of brightness. If, how-\never, the spirit be slightly mixed with polish,\nand be sparingly and judiciously employed, the\ndesired clearness of luster will make itself ap-\nparent. Prior to the application of the spirit\ncloth, which consists of a few soft rags loosely\nrolled up in the shape of a large finger rubber\nand slightly damped with spirit, it is most essen-\ntial to ply the rubber more quickly, and a little\nlonger than ordinary, for the purpose of re-\nmoving all signs of moisture and greasiness\nfrom the surface of the gloss.\nMost polishers seem to think that nothing\ncan be more productive of transparent bril-\nliancy and durable hardness at the finish than\nthe moderate use of spirit that has been some-\nwhat weakened by exposure to the air, and an\nallowance of two hours as a resting period\nbetween the final embodying and the spiriting-.\nDirections for Repolishing: In order to apply\nthis process with facility, you will find it need-\nful to disunite the various parts of each article.\nIf your job be a wardrobe, take off the doors\nby unfastening their hinges; remove all the\nscrew nails; take off the cornice; lift the wings\nor carcases from the base; and then separate\nthe mouldings and other carved ornaments\nfrom the frames and panels of the doors. If it\nbe a chest of drawers, pull the drawers out; un-\nscrew the knobs or handles; remove the scut-\ncheons from the keyholes; free the columns\nor pilasters from their recesses, and lift the\ncarcase from off the base. If your job should\nhappen to be a sideboard, separate the upper\nback from the top, unscrew the under back,\nand then take the base, top and pedestals\nasunder.\nAfter having disjoined the different portions\nand ornaments, take a pencil and put tallying\nmarks on every two meeting sides; this will\nguide you in having everything appropriately\nreplaced, when the complete article is finished.\nThe viscid rust must be thoroughly removed\nfrom the surface of the work this is done by\nscrubbing it with a paste made of the finest\nemery flour and spirits of turpentine.\nAfter cleansing and before repolishing, it is\na good plan to merely moisten the face of the\nwork with raw linseed oil, for this causes the\nold body to unite with the new one.\nWhere shallow dents, scratches and broken\nparts of the polish present themselves, carefully\ncoat them two or three times with a thick solu-\ntion of shellac, and when the last coatings be-\ncome hard rub them with soft putty until they\nbecome uniformly smooth and even; then pro-\nceed to polish the general surface.\nThe following are receipts for furniture\ncreams or French polishes:— 1. One pint 90% al-\ncohol, 34 oz. gum copal, yi oz. gum arabic, 1\noz. shellac. Bruise the gums and sift them,\nthrough a piece of muslin. Place the spirits;\nand gums together in a vessel closely corkec\nnear a warm stove, and frequently shake\nthem in two or three days they will be dis-\nsolved. Strain through a piece of muslin, and\nkeep corked tight.\n2. Shellac, 6 oz.; naphtha, 1 qt.; benzoin,\noz.; sandarac, 1 oz.\n3. Dissolve 1% oz. shellac, *4 oz. sandarac, in\npt. naphtha. To apply the polish, fold a\npiece of flannel into a sort of cushion, wet it\nwell with the polish, then lay a piece of clean\nlinen rag over the flannel, apply 1 drop of lin-\nseed oil rub your work in a circular direction*\nlightly at first. To finish off, use a little naph-\ntha, applied the same as the polish.\n4. Pale shellac, 2*4 lb.; mastic and sandarac*\neach 3 oz.; spirits, 1 gal. Dissolve, and add\ncopal varnish, 1 pt.; mix well by agitation.\n5. Shellac, 12 oz.; wood naphtha, 1 qt.; dis-\nsolve, and add J^ pint linseed oil.\n6. Crush 3 oz. shellac with 26 oz. gum mastic,,\nadd 1 pt. methylated spirits of wine, and dis-\nsolve.\n7. Shellac, 12 oz.; gum elemi,2oz.; gum copal*\n3 oz.; spirits of wine, 1 gal.; dissolve.\n8. Shellac, 1J4 oz.; gum juniper, oz.; ben-\nzoin, y% oz.; methylated alcohol, J^ pt.\n9. One oz. each of gums mastic, sandarac,\nseed lac, shellac, and gum arabic; reduce to\npowder, then add J4 oz. virgin wax dissolve in\na bottle with 1 qt. rectified spirits of wine. Let\nstand for twelve hours, and it is then fit for\nuse.\n10. One oz. gum lac, 2 drm. mastic in drops, 4\ndrm. sandarac, 3 oz shellac, }4 oz. gum dragon.\nReduce the whole to powder.\n11. Yellow wax, 4 oz.; yellow soap, 2 oz.;\nwater, 50 oz.; boil, with constant stirring, and\nadd boiled oil and oil of turpentine, each 5 oz.\n12. Soft water, 1 gal.; soap, 4 oz.; white wax,\nin shavings, 1 lb. Boil together, and add 2 oz.\npearlash. To be diluted with water, laid on\nwith a paint brush, and polished off with a hard\nbrush or cloth.\n13. Wax, 3 oz.; pearlash, 2 oz.; water, 6 oz.\nHeat together, and add 4 oz. boiled oil and 5 oz.\nspirits of turpentine.\n14. Raw linseed oil, 6 oz.; white wine vinegar,\n3 oz.; methylated spirit, 3 oz.; butter of anti-\nmony, X oz.; mix the linseed oil with the vine-\ngar by degrees, and shake well so as to prevent\nseparation add the spirit and antimony, and\nmix thoroughly.\n15. Boiled linseed oil, 1 pt.; yellow wax, 4 oz.;\nmelt, and color with alkanet root.\n16. Acetic acid, 2 drm.; oil of lavender, J^\ndrm.; rectified spirit, 1 drm.; linseed oil, 4 oz.\n17. Linseed oil, 1 pt.; alkanet root, 2 oz.; heat,\nstrain, and add lac varnish, 1 oz.\n18. Linseed oil, 1 pt.; rectified spirit, 2 oz.;\nbutter of antimony, 4 oz.\nFrench Polish Reviver.— 1. Linseed oil, }4 pt.;\nspirits of camphor, 1 oz.; vinegar, 2 oz.; butter\nof antimony, y oz.; spirt of hartshorn, J4 oz.\n2. One-half gill vinegar; 1 gill spirits of wine;\n1 drm. linseed oil.\n3. Naphtha, 1 lb.; shellac, 4 oz.; oxalic acid, J4\noz. Let it stand till dissolved; then add 3 oz.\nlinseed oil.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0468.jp2"},"465":{"fulltext":"Polishing.\n453\nPolishing.\nFurniture Polish.— 1. If the work is full of\npores, you should give it a coat of clear size be-\nfore commencing with the polish, and, when\ndry, go gently over it with very fine glass\npaper. The size, by filling up the pores, will\nprevent both the waste of polish, which would\notherwise be absorbed in the wood, and save\nconsiderable time in the work. You should\nplace your work in such a situation that the\nlight may shine on it obliquely, so that by\nlooking sideways you may be able to see how\nthe polishing proceeds. Make a wad with a\npiece of coarse flannel, or drugget, by rolling it\nround and round, over which, on the side you\nmean to polish with, put very fine linen rag\ndoubled several times to render it as soft as pos-\nsible; put the wad, or cushion, to the mouth of\nthe bottle containing the polish and shake it,\nwhich will damp the rag sufficiently, then pro-\nceed to rub your work in a circular direction,\nobserving not to do more than a foot square at\na time; rub it lightly till the whole surface is\ncovered, and repeat this operation three or\nfour times, according to the nature of the\nwood. Be very particular in having your rags\nclean and soft, as the effect of the polish de-\npends, in a great measure, on its being kept\nclean and free from dust. Rub each coat till\nthe rag appears dry, and be careful not to put\ntoo much upon the rag at once, and you will\nobtain a beautiful and lasting polish.\n2. Melt three or four pieces of sandarac,\neach of the size of a walnut, add 1 pt. of boiled\noil, and boil together for one hour. While\ncooling add 1 drm. of Venice turpentine, and\nif too thick a little oil of turpentine also. Ap-\nply this all over the furniture, and after some\nnours rub it off; rub the furniture daily, with-\nout applying fresh varnish, except about once\nin two months. Water does not injure this\npolish, and any stain or scratch may be again\ncovered, which cannot be done with French\npolish.\n3. The subjoined simple preparation is said to\nbe desirable for cleaning and polishing old fur-\nniture. Over a moderate fire put a perfectly\nclean vessel. Into this drop 2 oz. of white or\nyellow wax. When melted, add 4 oz. of pure\nturpentine, then stir until cool, when it is\nready for use. The mixture brings out the\noriginal color of the wood, adding a luster\nequal to that of varnish.\n4. For delicate cabinet and papier mache\nwork.—\nLinseed oil 32 oz.\nSpirit 8 oz.\nVinegar 8 oz.\nButter of antimony 2 oz.\nOil of turpentine. 8 oz.\nShake well before using, and apply with a\nwoolen rubber.\nOil of turpentine 16 oz.\nRectified oil of amber 16 oz.\nOlive oil 16 oz.\nOil of lavender 1 oz.\nTincture of alkanet 4 drm.\nMix.\nA cotton rubber is saturated with this pol-\nish, which is thus applied to the wood. The\nlatter is then well rubbed with soft, dry cot-\nton rags and wiped dry.— Meyer Bros. 1 Druggist.\n5. Melt 3 or 4 pieces sandarac, each of the\nsize of a walnut, add 1 pt. of boiled oil, and boil\ntogether for one hour. While cooling add 1\ndrm, of Venice turpentine, and if too thick, a\nlittle oil of turpentine too. Apply this all over\nthe furniture, and after some nours rub it off;\nrub the furniture daily, without applying fresh\nvarnish, except about once in two months.\nWater does not injure this polish and any\nstain or scratch may be again covered, which\ncannot be done with French polish. This re-\nceipt is very highly recommended for use in\nthe household.\n6. Melt together 4 parts of paraffine, 1 part of\ntallow and pour the mixture into a vessel con-\ntaining hot water. Add 12 parts of oil of tur-\npentine and stir well. Allow to stand until\ncold.\nPolish for Wood, Used without Friction.—\nDissolve 4 oz. best shellac in 2 pt. strong alco-\nhol, add 2 pt. linseed oil and 1 pt. spirit of tur-\npentine, shake and add 4 oz. sulphuric ether\n(common ether) and 4 oz. aqua ammonia.\nShake when used and apply with a sponge\nlightly.\nReviver.— Pale linseed oil, raw, 10 oz.; lac var-\nnish and wood spirit, each 5 oz. Mix well be-\nfore using.\nImitation Polish for Woodwork. The wood\nis first varnished over with gelatine, and after\ndrying and smoothing, with a mixture of 2J4\nlb. fluid copal varnish and 4 drm. pure drying\nlinseed oil; after drying the wood is polished\nwith an ethereal solution of wax.\nWoods, to Polish, in the Lathe.— Soft woods\nmay be turned so smooth as to require no other\npolishing than that produced by holding it\nagainst a few fine turnings or shavings of the\nsame wood while revolving. Mahogany, wal-\nnut, and some other woods may be polished by\nthe use of a mixture as follows Dissolve by\nheat so much beeswax in spirits of turpentine\nthat the mixture, when cold, shall be of about\nthe thickness of honey. This may be applied to\nfurniture or to work running in the lathe by\nmeans of a piece of clean cloth, and as much as\npossible should be rubbed off by using a clean\nflannel or other cloth. Hard woods may be\nreadily turned very smooth; fine glass paper\nwill suffice to give them a very perfect surface;\na little linseed oil may then be rubbed on, and\na portion of the turnings of the wood to be pol-\nished may then be held against the article, while\nit turns rapidly around, which will in general\ngive it a fine gloss. Also try alcoholic shellac\nvarnish, 2 parts; boiled linseed oil, 1 part; shake\nwell before using. Apply a small quantity with\na cloth and rub vigorously until the polish is\nsecured.\nFurniture Oils.— 1. Take 1 pt. furniture oil,\nmix with it pt. spirits of turpentine and\npt. vinegar; wet a woolen rag with the liquid\nand rub the wood the way of the grain, then\npolish with a piece of flannel and soft cloth.\n2. Melt 3 or 4 pieces of sandarac, each of the\nsize of a walnut, add 1 pt. boiled oil, and boil\ntogether for one hour. While cooling, add 1\ndrm. Venice turpentine, and if too thick a lit-\ntle oil of turpentine also. Apply this all over\nthe furniture, and after some hours rub it off;\nrub the furniture daily, without applying\nfresh varnish, except about once in two\nmonths. Water does not injure this polish,\nand any stain or scratch may be again covered,\nwhich cannot be done with French polish.\n3. Beeswax, lb.; alkanet root,J4oz.; melt\nuntil well colored. Then add linseed oil and\nspirits of turpentine, of each }/q gill, straining\nthrough a piece of coarse muslin.\n4. The wood having been stained, paper off\nsmooth with No. glass paper enough to give\nan even surface. Add 1%, gill French polish, to\n34 oz. best dragon s blood, well mix and strain\nthrough muslin; polish as usual; if wanted\nvery dark, apply a little dragon s blood to the\nrubber, but the rubber must be covered twice\nwith linen rag.\n5. Mix one part of boiled linseed oil with two\nparts of alcoholic shellac varnish. Shake well\nbefore using. Apply in small quantities, with\na cloth, and rub the work vigorously until the\ndesired polish is secured.\nPastes for Polishing or Finishing Wood.— 1. To\nkeep wood light, scrape J4 lb. beeswax into )4\npt. turpentine. By adding linseed oil the wood\nis darkened.\n2. Dissolve 6 oz. pearlash in 1 qt. hot water,\nadd }4 lb. white wax, and simmer for one half\nhour in pipkin take off the fire and when\ncool the wax will float it should be taken off,\nand, with a little hot water, worked into a\npaste.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0469.jp2"},"466":{"fulltext":"Polishing.\n454\nPolishing.\n3. Beeswax, spirits of turpentine and linseed\nOil, equal parts melt and cool.\n4. Beeswax, 4 oz. turpentine, 10 oz. alkanet\nroot to color melt and strain.\n5. Digest 2 drm. alkanet root in 20 oz. turpen-\ntine till the color is imparted add yellow wax\nin shavings, 4 oz. place on a water bath and\nstir till the mixture is complete.\n6. Beeswax, 1 lb. linseed oil 5, oz. alkanet\nroot, y% oz. melt, add 5 oz. of turpentine,\nstrain and cool.\n7. Beeswax, 4 oz. resin, 1 oz. oil of turpen-\ntine, 2 oz. Venetan red to color.\n8. One lb. white wax 1 oz. black resin 1 oz.\nalkanet root, and 10 oz. linseed oil.\n9. One lb. yellow wax, 2 oz. yellow soap, 2 pt.\nspirits of turpentine, 2 pt. boiling water melt\nthe wax and soap over a slow fire, add the tur-\npentine, and lastly stir in the water gently till\nit is quite cold.\n10. One and one half lb. beeswax, 4 pt. spirits\nof turpentine; dissolve in a closed vessel by\nmeans of a water bath, and add J^ lb. common\nsoap previously dissolved in 4 pt. water, and\nstir well together till nearly cold.\n11. Five oz. yellow wax, 1 pt. turps, 1^ oz.\nCastile soap cut the beeswax in small pieces,\nand dissolve in the turps by a gentle heat;\nwhen nearly cool, add the soap (first powdered\nand rubbed up with 2 oz. water), stirring con-\ntinually till it becomes thick.\n12. Two and one half oz. yellow wax, 1 oz.\nwhite wax, 1 oz. Castile soap, 10 oz. turpentine\noil, 10 oz. boiling water, 1 drm. potash carbon-\nate; melt the wax and turpentine together,\ndissolve the soap and potash carbonate in the\nwater and mix while warm, stirring till cold.\n13. Beat 5 lb. stearine out into thin sheets with\na wooden mallet, and mix with 7 lb. oil of tur-\npentine, after which subject the mass to a\nwater bath and heap up when hot, add y oz.\nivory or bone black, stirring well to prevent\ncrystallization. To cool it off, it should be emp-\ntied into another vessel and stirred until cold.\nTo use, warm it until it is reduced to a liquid\nstate, and apply in small quantities with a\ncloth afterward rub it well with a piece of\nsilk or linen cloth to bring up the polish.\nFurniture Polishes. The following is a\ngood polish for furniture, to be used upon\nnew wood for hand polishing, in place of\nFrench polish, but one that requires constant\nmanual labor, may be made of beeswax and\nturpentine spirit melted together, with red\nsanders wood to color it. This has been tried\nfor many years and well repays the trouble\nattending it. It should not be used upon work\nthajb has been French polished, but the follow-\ning will be found better than most that can be\nbought for reviving the brilliancy of French\npolished goods. Take equal parts of turpen-\ntine, vinegar, spirits of wine (methylated), and\nraw linseed oil, and place them in a bottle in\nthe order in which they are mentioned; great\ncare must be taken in this last particular; if\nnot, the mixture will curdle and become use-\nless.— Smither.\n2. Derby cream is made by adding 6 oz. lin-\nseed oil to 3 oz. acetic acid. This is agitated\nwell, and y% oz. butter of antimony and 3 oz.\nmethylated spirit are added.\n3. Soft water, 1 gal.; soap, 4 oz.; beeswax, in\nshavings, 1 lb. Boil together, and add 2 oz.\npearlash. To be diluted with water, laid on\nwith a paint brush, and polished off with a hard\nbrush or cloth.\n4. Wax, 3 oz.; pearlash, 2 oz.; water, 6 oz.\nHeat together, and add 4 oz. boiled oil and 5 oz.\nspirits of turpentine.\n5. The name is sometimes given to a mixture\nof 1 oz. white or yellow wax with 4 oz. of oil ot\nturpentine.\n6. Rain water, 1 gill; spirits of wine, 1 gill;\nbeeswax, 1 oz.; pale yellow soap, 1 oz. Cut the\nwax and soap into thin slices, and boil them in\nthe rain water until dissolved. Take off the\nlire, and occasionally stir till cold. Afterward\nadd 90$ alcohol, bottle, and it is read»y for\nuse. The above compound should be applied\nwith a piece of flannel, and afterward rubbed\nwith a soft cotton cloth.\nUseful Furniture Polishes for Family Use.— 1.\nOne oz. beeswax, J4 oz white wax, 1 oz. Castile\nsoap. The whole to be shredded very fine, and\na pint of boiling water poured upon it; when\ncold, add pt. turpentine and pt. spiiits of\nwine; mix well together. To be rubbed well\ninto the furniture with one cloth and polished\nwith another.\n2. Pearlash, 1 oz.; water, 8 oz.; beeswax (gen-\nuine), 6 oz. Mix with heat, and add sufficient\nwater to reduce it to the consistency of cream.\nFor use, add more water, and spread it on the\nwood with a painter s brush. Let it dry, and\npolish with a hard brush or cloth. If white\nwax is used, it may be applied to polish plaster\ncasts, statues, etc.\n3. Two gal. raw linseed oil, 1^ gal. turpen-\ntine, M lb. dragon s blood, J4 lb* rosin, J4 lb.\nalum, 2 oz. iodide potassium, }4 lb. sulphuric\nacid, 8 oz. nitric acid; using avoirdupois weight\nfor the dragon s blood, rosin, alum, iodide po-\ntassium, and sulphuric acid; common wine or\nliquid measure for the oil and turpentine;\napothecaries measure for the nitric acid. The\ndirections for preparing the polish are as fol-\nlows First put the oil and turpentine into an\nearthen vessel, then pulverize the dragon s\nblood, rosin, alum and iodide potassium to a\nfine powder. Stir this powder slowly into the\noil and turpentine; then add the sulphuric acid\nslowly, stirring continually. Let this mixture\nstand ten hours, then add the nitric acid.\nSlowly stir the mixture while adding. Apply\nwith a sponge or cloth.\n4. Messer, of Berlin, dissolves 6% lb. shellac\nin about 28 pt. alcohol, and then mixes this with\nanother obtained by dissolving 25 drm. gun\ncotton in 25 drm. high grade sulphuric ether\nto which is added 12J^ drm. camphor and\nenough 96% alcohol to completely dissolve\nthe mass. This polish is finally rubbed up\nwith pure linseed oil. To 100 parts of it 5 parts\nof a saturated solution of camphor in oil of\nrosemary are then added. A very dilute so-\nlution of benzole in alcohol is used for polish-\ning off.\n5. One gal. soft water, 4 oz. soap, 1 lb. white\nwax in shavings; boil these together and add 2\noz. pearlash. This is to be diluted with water,\nlaid on the furniture with a paint brush and\npolished off with a cloth or a hard brush.\n6. Dissolve 1}4 lb. potash and 1 lb. virgin wax\nin 1 gal. hot water, and boil the whole for half\nan hour; then stand to cool. Remove the wax\nfrom the surface, put it into a mortar and trit-\nurate it with a marble pestle, adding sufficient\nsoft water to form a soft paste. This laid neatly\non furniture or even on pictures, and carefully\nrubbed when dry with a woolen rag, gives a\npolish of great brilliancy and softness.\n7. Household furniture is readily cleaned\nby washing it with a little warm ale, the polish\nbeing brought up subsequently by means of a\ncloth damped with paraffine oil. The following\nhas been strongly recommended for renova-\nting old furniture and bringing up a good\npolish: Take olive oil, 1 lb.; rectified oil of\namber, 1 lb.; spirits of turpentine, 1 lb.; oil of\nlavender, 1 oz.; tincture of alkanet root, J^oz.\nSaturate a piece of cotton batting with this\npolish, apply it to the wood, then with soft and\ndry cotton rags rub well and wipe off dry.\nKeep the polish in a stoppered bottle.\n8. Pure beeswax, 1J4 lb-; linseed oil, J4 lb.\nMelt together and remove from the fire, and\nwhen the mixture has cooled a little add 1 qt.\nturpentine and mix well. The way to make it\nwith soda would be to dissolve the soda in hot\nwater, add the wax in small pieces and mix\nwell over the fire. The former method is pref-\nerable.\n9. A high polish on ebony, one that will be\ndurable. Give the work two coats of fine","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0470.jp2"},"467":{"fulltext":"Polishing.\n455\nPomades,\ncopal varnish and rub this down, when quite\ndry smooth with fine pumice, put on a third\ncoat of the same and rub down with rotten-\nstone; clean and put on a flowing coat of best\nspirit copal varnish, and when this has become\nquite dry, polish with chamois skin and the\npalm of the hand.\nA Red Polish.—\nOil of turpentine 16 oz.\nAlkanet 4 drm.\nBeeswax 4 oz.\nDigest the alkanet in the oil until sufficiently\ncolored then scrape the beeswax fine and\nform a homogeneous mixture by digestion over\na water bath.\nFor a pale polish omit the alkanet.\nFor Turner s Work.— Dissolve 1 oz. sandarac\nin y% pt. 90% alcohol shave 1 oz. beeswax, and\ndissolve it in sufficient spirits of turpentine to\nmake it into a paste; add the former mixture\nto it by degrees; then, with a woolen cloth,\napply it to the work while it is in motion in the\nlathe, and polish it with a soft linen rag it will\nappear as if highly varnished.\nSatinwood or Maple.— One quarter oz. chrome\nyellow to 1 gill light French polish use as be-\nfore described; a little chrome yellow on the\nrubber is desirable. In French polishing al-\nways use a drop of linseed on the rubber.\nFor Wainscot.— Take as much beeswax as re-\nquired, and, placing it in a glazed earthen pan,\nadd as much 9i)% alcohol as will cover it, and let\nit dissolve without heat. Add either ingredient\nas is required, to reduce it to the consistence of\nbutter. When this mixture is well rubbed into\nthe grain of the wood, and cleaned off with\nclean linen, it gives a good gloss to the work.\nWalnut, to Polish.— To give black walnut a\nfine polish so as to resemble rich old wood,\napply a coat of shellac varnish, and then rub it\nwith a piece of smooth pumice stone until dry.\nAnother coat may be given, and the rubbing-\nrepeated. After this, a coat of polish, made of\nlinseed oil, beeswax, and turpentine, may be\nwell rubbed in with a dauber, made of a piece\nof sponge tightly wrapped in a piece of fine\nflannel several times folded and moistened\nwith the polish. If the work is not fine enough,\nit may be smoothed with the finest sand paper\nand the rubbing repeated. In the course of\ntime the walnut becomes very dark and rich in\ncolor, and in every way is superior to that\nwhich has been varnished.\nWax Polishing.— 1. There is no particular art\nin wax polishing floors, the principal require-\nments being plenty of elbow grease and a good\nhard brush. The floor, after being well scrubbed,\nis allowed to dry. When dry, it is painted\nover with a large, soft whitewash brush dipped\nin oak stain. This is allowed to dry for twenty-\nfour hours. The floor is then gone over with thin\nsize, and this is, in turn, allowed to dry for twen-\nty-four hours. After this, the floor is painted\nover with a kind of varnish made by dissolving-\nbeeswax in spirits of turpentine,the proportions\nbeing about 1 lb. of wax to 2 qt. of turps. The\nwax is shredded, placed along with the turps in\na stone bottle, and the whole put on the hob\nand frequently shaken. When this varnish\nhas soaked well in, the whole floor is polished\nwith a. rather hard brush until a good surface\nis obtained. Special brushes, adapted to pol-\nishing waxed floors, are sold at paint stores.\n2. Wood Finish.— Richness of effect may be\ngained in decorative woodwork by using woods\nof different tone, such as amaranth and am-\nboyna, by inlaying and veneering. The Hun-\ngarian ash and French walnut afford excellent\nveneers, especially the burls or gnarls. A few\nuseful notes on the subject are given by a\nrecent American authority. In varnishing,\nthe varnishes used can be toned down to match\nthe wbdd, or be made to darken it, by the ad-\ndition of coloring matters. The patented com-\npositions known as wood fillers are made up\nin different colors for the purpose of preparing\nthe surface of wood previous to the varnish-\ning. They fill up the pores of the wood, ren-\ndering the surface hard and smooth. For pol-\nishing mahogany, walnut, etc., the following is\nrecommended: Dissolve beeswax by heat in\nspirits of turpentine until the mixture becomes\nviscid; then apply by a clean cloth, and rub\nthoroughly with a flannel or cloth. A common\nmode of polishing- mahogany is by rubbing it\nfirst with linseed oil and then by a cloth dipped\nin very fine brickdust; a good gloss may also\nbe produced by rubbing with linseed oil, and\nthen holding trimmings or shavings of the\nsame material against the work in the lathe.\nGlasspaper, followed by rubbing, also gives a\ngood luster.\n3. For large surfaces it is advisable to get\nthe wax more deeply imbedded in the wood,\nand when a layer has been x-ubbed on, a hot\niron passed over the surface will melt the wax\nand drive it in. This gives more body to polish\non than by the method first described. The\nwork is afterward treated with more wax on a\nrubber, and finally polished.\nFinish, Waterproof, on Veneering. The\npolish to be applied the same as French\npolish. Use linseed oil, 1)4 lb.; amber, 1 lb.;\nlitharge, 5 oz.; white lead, pulverized, 5 oz.;\nminium, 5 oz. Boil the linseed oil in an untinned\ncopper vessel, and suspend in it the lithage and\nminium in a small bag, which must not touch\nthe bottom of the vessel. Continue the boiling\nuntil the oil has acquired a deep brown color,\nthen take out of the bag and put in a cljve\nof garlic this is to be repeated 7 or 8 times,\nthe boiling being always continued. Before\nthe amber is added to the oil it is to be mixed\nwith 2 oz. linseed oil and melted over a fire\nthat is well kept up. When the mass is fluid,\nit is to be boiled and stirred continually for 2 or\n3 minutes afterward filter the mixture, and\npreserve it in bottles tightly corked. When\nthis varnish is used, the wood must be previ-\nously well polished and covered with a thin\ncoat of soot and spirits of turpentine. When\nthe coat is dry, some of the varnish may be\napplied, which should be equally distributed\non every part with a small, fine sponge. This\noperation must be repeated four times, being\nalways careful that each coat is well dried\nfirst. After the last coat of varnish, the wood\nmust be dried in an oven and afterward pol-\nished.\nA White Polish.—\nWhite wax 1 lb.\nSolution of potash 32 oz.\nBoil to proper consistency.\nWhite Polish for Light Woods. White\n(bleached) shellac, 3 oz.; white gum benzoin,\n1 oz.; gum sandarac, }4 oz.; alcohol or wood\nnaphtha, 1 pt.; dissolve.\nPolishes. French. See Polishing.\nWood.\nPomades, Pommades, Pomatum. France\nis the land of pomades, and her manufacturers\nare as celebrated for the variety and excel-\nlence of these products as they are for al-\nmost all other articles connected with per-\nfumery, the cosmetic arts, and the toilet. This\narises from the care, skill, taste, and integrity\nexercised in their preparation by all the re-\nspectable houses there. The superiority of\nFrench pommades over the pomatums of the\nEnglish perfumers and druggists is so generally\nknown and appreciated that, of late years,\nthe latter, in order to f orce the sale of their\nscented compounds of coarse, and often rancid,\noils and fats, have adopted the practice of af-\nfixing spurious French labels to them.\n1. The first object of consideration with the\nFrench perfumer is to obtain the fatty basis of\nhis pommades from a young and healthy ani-\nmal, and in as fresh and pure a state as possible.\nLard, beef, suet, mutton suet, beef marrow,\nveal fat, and bear s fat, are those which, in a\nrendered state, he chiefly employs, either singly","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0471.jp2"},"468":{"fulltext":"Pomades.\n456\nPomades.\nor in mixtures of two or more of them. After\nselecting his fat, he carefully removes from it\nextraneous skin, fiber, and moisture, and then\npounds it in a cold marble mortar until all the\nmembranes are completely torn asunder. He\nnext places it in a covered pan of porcelain or\ntinned copper, and submits it to the heat of a\nwater bath until its fatty portion is lique-\nfied, and all albuminous matter, fibers, water,\nand other foreign substances have completely\nseparated and subsided. Then he carefully skims\nthe liquid fat, and pouring* off the clear portion\nfrom the sediment, passes it through a clean\nflannel filter into-a deep porcelain or stoneware\npot furnished with a lip, or into a basin or\nother vessel of the like material, of which the\nbottom and sides are curvilinear and expand-\ning upward. The first is employed when he\nintends to aromatize or perfume the fat, and\npot it at once, as is the case with ordinary po-\nmades; the second, when he desires to submit\nit to further treatment. In the latter case,\nthe vessel, after being covered to exclude dust\nand dirt, is set aside in a situation where its\ncontents will cool slowly. The next day the\nbasin or pan is placed, for a few minutes, in\nwarm water to the depth of its contained fat,\nand is then inverted, so that the mass of fat\nmay fall bottom upward on a sheet of white\npaper previously placed to receive it in a cool\nsituation free from dust. In this way any\nwater that escaped removal in the first render-\ning drains off. When the exterior portion of\nthe mass has become cold, the operator removes\nadhering moisture (if any) by dabbing it with\na soft spongy cloth, and any particles of dirt,\nfiber, etc., that passed the flannel filter, by\nmeans of a bone palette knife. He next chops\nup the fat, and again liquefies it, in a suitable\nvessel, by the heat of hot water. Lastly, he\neither adds the necessary matter to prevent\nthe accession of rancidity, with the aromatics\nor perfume, and at once finishes oif and pots\nthe pommade, or he covers the vessel, and sets\nit aside in a cool place, to preserve its contents\nas stock fat for future use.\n2. In adding his aromatics or perfumes to the\nmelted fat, the operator, as a rule, adapts its\ntemperature to their relative degree of vola-\ntility. Essential oils and alcoholic essences,\nparticularly the more delicate ones, he adds at\nthe lowest possible temperature compatible\nwith their perfect union with the fat; while\nsubstances, like the aromatic resins and bal-\nsams, he adds to the fat more fully liquefied by\nheat, and aids their solution and union by stir-\nring the mass with a wooden, bone, or porce-\nlain knife or spatula. With the latter, after\nthe,,union is complete, it is often necessary to\nallow the mixture to repose for a short time,\nand to pour it off from the dregs before adding\nthe essential oils and essences, and concluding\nthe work.\n3. In finishing off pommades, two methods\nare adopted, according to the appearance it is\ndesired they should have. Those which it is\nintended should be opaque and white, the\noperator stirs or beats assiduously with the\nknife or spatula until the fat begins to con-\ncrete, or has acquired considerable consistence\nbefore potting it; but when it is desired that\nthey should be transparent or crystalline, the\nclear liquid mass is poured into the pots or bot-\ntles, previously slightly warmed, and the whole\nis allowed to cool very slowly, without being\ndisturbed, in a situation free from draughts or\ncold air.\n4. For the ordinary pommades a mixture of\nlard and suet is generally employed; for the\nharder ones, suet chiefly or wholly; or a little\npure white wax or beeswax (according to the\nintended color of the product) is melted with\nthe fat, to increase its solidity.\n5. For white pommades, mutton suet is em-\nployed for others, in general, beef suet. In\nthose which are artificially colored, either may\nbe used; but beef suet is preferable when\neither clearness or a cystalline appearance is\ndesired.\n6. The colored pommades derive their res-\npective hues from tinctorial substances dis-\nsolved or steeped in the melted fat before scent-\ning it, the process being similar to that adopted\nfor the colored oils.\n7. Green is given by powdered gum guaiacum,\nor the green leaves or tops of parsley, spinach,\nlavender or walnut.\n8. Red, by alkanet root; or by carmine added\nwith the perfumes.\n9. Orange, by annatto, or by annatto and palm\noil mixed.\n10. Yellow, chiefly by palm oil. The suet and\nother fat of Guernsey oxen and cows possesses\na rich pale yellow, sufficiently deep for many\npommades without artificial coloring.\nThe French perfumers commonly divide their\npommades, like their oils, into four classes, ac-\ncording to the methods which they employ to\nscent them\n11. Pommades prepared by the addition of the\nessential oils, fragrant essences, and perfumed\nhuiles, to the simple pommade liquefied by a\ngentle heat or by dissolving the fragrant re-\nsins and balsams in it each in the manner pre-\nviously explained. In this way are prepared\nthe pommades of ambergris, bergamot, cassia\n(ordinary), cedrat, cinnamon (ordinary), cloves,\nlavender, lemon, lemon thyme, limettes, mare-\nchale, marjoram, millefleur, musk, neroli, nut-\nmeg, orange flower (ordinary), orange, Portu-\ngal, rondeletia, rose, rosemary, thyme, ver-\nbena, and between 40 and 50 other pommades\nkept by the Parisian perfumers, and all, or\nnearly all, those of the perfumers and druggists\nin this country.\n12. Pommades by Infusion. These are pre-\npared by digesting the odorous substances in\nthe simple pommade, at a very gentle heat, for\ntwo or three, to eight or ten hours, according\nto their nature, in the way already noticed\nunder Oils observing to stir the mixture\nfrequently, and to keep the vessel covered as\nmuch as possible during the whole time. One\npart of flowers, carefully picked and pulled to\npieces, to 3 or 4 parts of pommade, are the usual\nproportions. The next day the mixture is again\ngently heated, and, after being stirred for a\nshort time, is thrown into a strong canvas bag,\nwhich is then securely tied, and at once sub-\nmitted to the action of a powerful press. The\nwhole operation is then repeated several times\nwith fresh flowers, or other bulky odorous sub-\nstance, until the pommade be sufficiently fra-\ngrant. This will require 3 to 6 times its weight\nin flowers. Lastly, in the case of flowers, the\npommade is liquefied in a covered vessel, at a\ngentle heat, as before and after sufficient re-\npose to allow it to deposit adhering moisture, is\npoured off for stock, or is at once potted.\nThe mode of proceeding with the aromatic\nbarks, seeds, resins, balsams, etc., the duration\nof the infusion, and the proportions taken, are,\nfor the most part, similar to those of the cor-\nresponding huiles or oils; but here the first\ntwo substances, and others of a like nature, are\nonly bruised, ground, or sliced very small, and\nnot reduced to actual powder, before digestion,\nas pommades, unlike oils, cannot be freed from\nfine powder or dust by filtration through fine\nmedia or by repose in the cold.\n13. In this way are prepared the pommades\nof balsam of Peru, benzoin, cassia, cinnamon,\nlavender (green), orange .blossoms, orris root\n(violet), roses (colored), stryax, vanilla, and\nseveral others kept by the Continental per-\nfumers, and known and spoken of in this coun-\ntry by their French names, as Pommade aux\nfleurs d oranges, d la rose, d la fanille, etc.\n14. Pommades by the Flowers or Enfleurage.—\nThese are prepared by a similar process to that\nadopted for the corresponding huiles. On the\nlarge scale a layer of simple pommade is spread\nwith a bone palette knife on panes of glass, to\nabout the thickness of a finger, and the sur-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0472.jp2"},"469":{"fulltext":"Pomades.\n457\nPomades.\nface is closely stuck all over with the newly\ngathered flowers. The panes are then placed in\nshallow frames of wood and these are closely\npiled one upon another in stacks, in a moder-\nately cool situation. In some of the great per-\nfumeries of France many thousands of these\nframes are employed at once. On the small\nscale, porcelain or pewter plates are generally\nused instead of panes of glass, and are inverted\nover each other in pairs, so as to fit close at the\nedges. In each case the flowers are renewed\ndaily and the fat stirred up and respread occa-\nsionally, for one, two, or even three months,\nor until the pommade has become sufficiently\nfragrant to render it of the quality intended\nby the manufacturer. It is now scraped off\nthe panes or plates into the store pots and is\nready for use or sale.\nIn this way are prepared the finest qualities\nof cowslip pommade, honeysuckle pommade,\njasmine pommade, jonquille pommade, etc.\nBear s Grease.— The fat of the bear has long\nbeen highly esteemed for promoting the growth\nof human hair, but without sufficient rea-\nson, since experience shows that it possesses no\nsuperiority over the fats ordinarily employed\nby the perfumers. Indeed, if we may i^egard\nthe somewhat rank smell of genuine bear s\ngrease as an indication of its quality, it must\nbe inferior to them as a hair cosmetic; besides\nwhich, it is much more costly. The greater\nportion of the so-called bear s grease is pre-\npared by one or other of the following form-\nulae\nBear s Grease (Factitious). 1. Take of\nWashed hog s lard (dry) 134 lb.\nMelt it by the heat of a water bath; add of—\nBalsam of Peru 2 drm.\nFlowers of benzoin 1 drm.\nPalm oil (bright) 1 drm.\nStir vigorously for a few minutes, to promote\nsolution. Then remove the pan from the bath,\nand after repose for a short time, pour off the\nclear portion from the sediment, and stir the\nliquid mass until it begins to cool.\n2— Take of—\nSoft veal fat 1 lb.\nPalm oil )4 drm.\nMelt, and when nearly cold, stir in of—\nNitric ether (genuine) 2 fl. drm\nEssence of ambergris 7 or 8 drops.\n3.— Take of—\nHog s lard 1 lb.\nVeal suet 1 lb.\nOlive oil 3 oz.\nMelt, cool a 1 ittle, and stir in of\nCompound tincture of benzoin 1 fl. oz.\nPommade, far Inflammation of the Skin.—\nPure lard, 4 lb.; calf suet, 1 lb.; juice of cucum-\nbers, 3 lb. Melt the lard and suet, mix in the\ncucumber juice and macerate for some time.\nAfter infusing for a day or two, decant and\nadd as much of fresh juice. Repeat this opera-\ntion ten times always with new juice. When\nthe fat has acquired a perceptible odor of cu-\ncumbers, melt over a water bath, and add to\nevery pound 3 lb. of starch. Stir well and put\nup in jars.\nCacao Pomade.— Equal parts cacao butter, oil\nof almonds, pure white wax. Melt over a\nwater bath and stir until nearly cold. Used as\nan emollient, for chapped hands, lips, etc. It\nmay be colored with a little palm oil, and may\nbe scented if desired.\nPommade de Casse, Cassia Pomatum. —Take of\nPlain pommade 1 lb.\nAnnatto (finest) (or*™*.)\nMelt them together, and stir for some time.\nAfter repose, pour off the clear portion, add of\nOil of cassia (finest) V/% drm.\nHuile au jasmine 1J^ drm.\nNeroli y% drm.\nOil of verbena or lemon grass 20 drops\nOtto of roses 8 or 10\nEssence royale dropseach.\nStir the mixture until it begins to cool.\nDelightfully fragrant. The common practice\nis to substitute 3 to 4 drm. of bright palm oil\nfor the annatto but the color of the product\nis then not so rich.\nCastor Oil Pomade.— Mix the following\nCastor oil 4 oz.\nPrep, lard 2 oz.\nWhite wax 6 drm.\nOil bergamot )4 drm.\nOil lemon t drm.\nCastor Oil Pomatum.— Tuberose pomatum, 1\nlb.; castor oil, y lb.; almond oil, y% lb.; otto of\nbergamot, 1 oz.\nCazenave s Pommade.— Take of\nBeef marrow (prepared) 4 oz.\nTincture of canthaiides (Paris\nCodex) y 2 fL. oz.\nCinnamon (coarsely powdered). V^ oz.\nMelt them together, by the heat of a water\nbath; stir until the spirit in the tincture has\nevaporated, decant the clear portion, and again\nstir until the mass concretes. It is cheaper and\nmore convenient to omit the powdered cinna-\nmon, and to strongly scent it with oil of cinna-\nmon (or of cassia) after the removal of the\nvessel from the bath.\nChafe Pomade.— Nothing is more troublesome\nto fat men and women (and to many who are\nnot fat) than chafing under the arms, between\nthe legs and elsewhere, to which they are sub-\nject especially in hot weather. The following\nwill relieve it like magic\nLanolin 85 parts.\nAlbolin 10 parts.\nCampho-phenique 5 parts.\nThe directions for use on the label should in-\nstruct the purchaser to wash the affected parts\nwith suds made of tepid water and white\nCastile soap to dry them softly with a very\nsoft napkin or old towel, without rubbing; and\nthen to apply the pomade. This should be done\non retiring and on getting up in the morning.\nPharm. Era.\nThe following partake more of the nature of\nfixateur and cement than of the preparations\nbefore noticed\nPommade Collante.—l. Take of—\nOil of almonds 3 oz.\nWhite wax 1 oz.\nMelt, and before it cools, stir in, of—\nTincture of mastic (strongest) 1 fl. oz.\nOil of bergamot j toops?\nUsed, like bandoline, to stiffen the hair, and\nto keep it in its place.\nCosmos Pomade.— White wax, \\y 2 parts sper-\nmaceti, 3 parts; 2 parts castor oil; 8 parts\nalmond oil glycerine, 2 parts 9 parts extract\nmignonette y% part Cologne water.— Hagar.\nCovjslip Pommade or Pomatum.—\nPlain pommade 1 lb\nLiquefy it at a very gentle heat, and stir\nin—\nOil of bergamot V fl. drm.\nOil of lemon }^fl. drm.\nOil of orange peel V6 A- drm.\nHuile au jasmin 15 to 20\nEssence de petit grain I dps. each.\nEssence of ambergris -j pg °e ac h.\nCrystallized Pommade or Pomatum.—\nOil of almonds or olives 1 pt.\nSpermaceti (best, pure) J4 lb.\nMelt them together by a gentle heat, add\nscent, at will, and while sufficiently warm to","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0473.jp2"},"470":{"fulltext":"Pomades.\n458\nPomades.\nbe clear, pour it into warm glass bottles, and\nallow it to cool very slowly, and without dis-\nturbance. Some persons add 1 drm. of cam-\nphor. It is usually preferred uncolored. If\ntinged at all, it must be only very faintly so,\nand with substances that will not cause opac-\nity.\nPomade of Cucumber.— Benzoinated lard, 6\nlb.; spermaceti, 2 lb.; spirit of cucumber, lib.\nMelt the spermaceti with the lard, then keep\nit constantly in motion while it coois. Beat\nthe grease in a mortar, gradually adding the\nessence of cucumber, continue to beat the\nwhole until the spirit is evaporated, and the\npomade is beautifully white. Apply by rub-\nbing a little over the skin at bed time.\nPommade Divine.\n1. Refined beef marrow 1 lb.\nCypress wood (rasped). 1 oz.\nOrris root (in coarse powder) 1 oz.\nLiquid sty rax 1 oz.\nCinnamon (powdered, but not\ndusty) m oz.\nCloves (well bruised) oz.\nNutmegs (well bruised or grated, J4 oz.\nDigest, by the heat of a water bath, in a cov-\nered vessel, for five or six hours, and then\nstrain through flannel. Very fine, and much\nesteemed for the hair, and also as an occasional\nskin cosmetic.\n2. Plain pommade (or soft beef\nfat) 1 lb.\nMelt by a very gentle heat, and stir in—\nEssence of violets 2 fl.drm.\nHuile au jasmine V/% fl.drm.\nOil of begamot 1 fl.drm.\nOil of lemon 1 fl.drm.\nOil of lavender y% fl.drm.\nOil of origanum ^fl.drm.\nNeroli f fi n\nOil of casssia J dr f\nOil of cloves a ™P| ot\nOil of verbena\neach.\nDelightfully and powerfully fragrant, but\napparently unnecessarily complicated. The\nproduct of the first is, however, the geunine\npommade divine. In second and ordinary qual-\nities, double the above proportion of fat is\nusually employed.\nEbony Pomatum.— White wax, 4 oz.; any po-\nmade, 12 oz.; melt, add levigated ivory black,\n2oz.\nPommade Noire en Batons (for the eyebrows\nand mustache). Prepare this pomade in the\nusual way, using a third of wax instead of a\nfourth, in winter, and the half in summer.\nWhen it is cool enough, mould it in forms, en-\nvelop in tin foil, and label for market.\nHair Pommades.\n1. Plain pomade (or fat) 1 lb.\nMelt it at the lowest degree of heat that will\neffect the object, add of—\nOil of bergamot 1 drm.\nOil of lemon 1 drm.\nStir the mixture until it begins to concrete,\nand then pour it into the pots or bottles. This\nforms the ordinary pomatum or pommade of the\nshops.\n2. Plain pommade 1 lb.\nOil of bergamot ..1 drm.\nOil of lemon drm.\nOil of cassia drm.\nOil of cloves or nutmeg 20 drops.\nAs before. More fragrant and agreeable than\nthe first.\n3. Plain pommade 1 lb.\nOil of bergamot 1 drm.\nHuile au jasmine J^ drm.\nNeroli \\i drm.\nOil of verbena 20 drops.\nOil of cassia 10 drops.\nAs before. Very fragrant and delicate.\n4. Plain pommade 1 lb.\nMelt, as before, add of\nBalsam of Peru (or liquid styrax) 2 drm.\nStir until dissolved, and then add of—\nOil of cassia 20 drops.\nOil of cloves 15 drops.\nEssence of ambergris 12 drops.\n5. Plain pommade 1 lb.\nOil of cassia 1 drm.\nOil of cloves ^drm.\nEssence of ambergris. 20 drops.\nOil of rhodium 15 drops.\nEssence of musk 15 drops.\nAs before. Possesses a very agreeable and\ndurable odor.\n6. Plain pommade 1 lb.\nOtto of roses J^j drm.\nOil of rhodium 15 drops.\nNeroli 15 drops.\nEssence royale.... 12 drops.\nAs before. Much esteemed by those who ap-\npreciate the fragrance of roses.\n7. Lassar s Hair Pomade.—\nPilocarpine 2 parts.\nQuinine hydrochlorate 4 parts.\nSulphur, precipitated 10 parts.\nBalsam of Peru 20 parts.\nOx marrow, to make 100 parts.\nHard Pomatum, Roll Pomatum, Stick Poma-\ntum.— 1.\nPrepared beef suet (hard) 1 lb.\nBeeswax (pure, bright) 2% oz.\nGum benzoin (in coarse powder) 1 drm.\nMelt them together, at a gentle heat, stir\nwell, and, after a little repose, pour off the\nclear portion. To the latter, when it has cooled\na little, add of\nOil of lavender. 1 fl.drm.\nOil of cassia 15 drops.\nEssence of ambergris .15 drops.\nJust before the mass concretes, pour it into\nmoulds of paper or tin foil, and when these\nhave become quite cold and hard, cover them\nwith ornamental wrappers. Very fine. Has a\nslight yellowish color.\nPommade d Hebe.\nWhite wax (pure) 2 oz.\nMelt, add of—\nJuice of lily bulbs 4 oz.\nNarbonne honey 4 oz.\nEau de rose ^2 oz.\nEsprit de rose \\i fl. drm\nStir until it solidifies. Applied night and\nmorning to remove wrinkles, freckles, etc.\nMarrow Pomatum.— Purified lard, 4 lb.; puri-\nfied suet, 2 lb.; otto of lemon, 1 oz.; otto of ber-\ngamot, y^ oz.; otto of cloves, 3 drm. Melt the\ngreases; then beat up with a whisk or flat wood-\nen spatula half an hour or more.\nPeruvian Pommade.—\nLard (good, washed) }4 oz.\nBeef suet (clarified) oz.\nBalsam of Peru M oz.\nMix, as before, add of\nOil of nutmeg M fl. drm\nand pour it into pots or dumpy wide mouthed\nphials. Dr. Copland adds a little oil of laven-\nder. In high repute as a hair restorer.\nPlain Pomatum or Pommade, Pommade Sim-\nple.—\n1. Hog s lard (carefully rendered) 2 parts.\nBeef suet (carefully rendered) 1 part.\nMelt them together by a very gentle heat.\nThe product is of the proper consistence for\ntemperate climates.\n2. Lard 5 parts.\nMutten suet 2 parts.\nFor white pommades, as the last.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0474.jp2"},"471":{"fulltext":"Pomades,\n459\nPomades.\n3. Lard 1 part.\nSuet 1 part.\nFor warm climates. For tropical climates\neven more suet may be used, and Yz to 1 oz. of\npure wax, per pound, may be added.\nIn pommades containing bear s fat, marrow,\noil, etc., or wax or spermaceti, the proportions\nof the other ingredients are so adjusted that the\nproduct may be of the proper consistence.\nThis chiefly occurs in hair cosmetics.\nQuinine Pommades.— Antonini.—\nBisulphate of quinine 1 drm.\nAlcohol 2 fl. drm\nSulphuric acid. 10 drops.\nDissolve, and triturate the solution with\nLard (pure, hard) 3 oz.\nBoth are used to promote the growth of hair\nin laxness of the scalp, the former being- the\nmore active and scientific preparation. They\nare said to be also serviceable in nervous head-\nache of an intermittent kind.\nSoubeiran s Pommade.—\nOil of almonds Yz oz.\nDisulphate of quinine 1 drm.\nTriturate them together in a warm Wedg-\nwood ware mortar until thoroughly united;\nthen add of—\nPrepared beef marrow lYz oz.\nand continue the trituration until the mass is\ncold. Scent may be added. Recommended for\nstrengthening and restoring the hair.\nPommade en Batons (Stick Pomatum).— The\nstick pomatum is generally composed of mut-\nton suet, but it is also made of the hard body,\nto the pound of which, in summer time, must\nbe added 1 oz. of wax. The lard body can also\nbe used, but then the proportion of wax\nshould be increased, for it is requisite that the\npomade in stick should be of firm consistence.\nAlways melt the least fusible body first.\nStrawberry Pomade.—\nFresh strawberries 4 oz.\nCocoanutoil 18 oz.\nAlmond oil 9 oz.\nWhite wax 3 oz.\nMelt the last three ingredients on a water-bath\nand digest the strawberries in the mixture for\nat least an hour, at a heat which just keeps the\nmixture melted. Then heat to 100° C. to drive\noff moisture add a sufficiency of alkanin to\ncolor (or the almond oil may be colored with\nalkanet root) strain, and perfume with 10\ndrops of otto of rose.\nPomade de Tobolksa.— Melt Yz lb. purified\nbeef suet and Yz lb. purified lard 1 lb. mutton\nsuet 2 lb. purified bear s grease. Add to this\n6 oz. fine white salt, and stir constantly while\ncooling, so as to incorporate it thoroughly.\nPerfume with 6 oz. parsley seed, 1 oz. anise\nseed, and 1 oz. fennel seed, all finely powdered,\nand when the whole is thoroughly mixed, put\nin 2 oz. anise.\nTonquin Pomade and Tonquin Oil are pre-\npared by macerating the ground Tonquin beans\nin either melted fat or warm oil from 12 to 28\nhours, in the proportion of Tonquin beans\nYz lb., fat or oil 41b. Strain through fine mus-\nlin when cold the grease will have a fine odor\nof the beans.\nTransparent Pomade. The following is a\nFrench recipe\nSpermaceti 2 oz.\nCastor oil 5 oz.\nAlcohol 5 oz.\nOil of bergamot Yz drm.\nOil of Portugal Yz drm.\nMelt together the spermaceti and castor oil,\npour in the alcohol gradually, stop the heat\nand add the perfume. Stir well and pour into\nglass jars.\nVanilla Pomatum, Pommade a, la Vanille,\nPommade Romaine.\n1. Plain pommade 1J^ lb.\nVanilla (in coarse po ivder) 1 to 1*4 oz.\nCassia (in coarse powder) VYz drm.\nCloves (in coarse powder) V/ z drm.\nProceed by infusion for two hours. To the\nclear decanted portion add—\nHuiie a la rose 23^ oz.\nOil of bergamot 1 fl. drm\nOtto of roses 12 drops.\nand let it cool slowly and undisturbed after it\nbegins to thicken. Very fine.\n2. Plain pommade 1 lb.\nMelt, and add\nEssence of vanilla (finest) .4 or 5 fl. drm\nOtto of roses 8 or 10 drops.\nAs before. Very fine. The plain pommade\nmay be previously slightly tinged with an-\nnatto.\nPommade Scents. 1. Cowslip.\nOil of bergamot 2 oz.\nOil of lemon 1 oz.\nEssential oil of jasmine J4 oz.\nEssence de petit grain 34 oz.\nOil of rose geranium. \\Yz drm.\nOil of cloves 1 drm.\nOil of rhodium Yz drm.\nMix by agitation.\n2. Jonquille.\nOil of bergamot 2 oz.\nOil of lemon 2 oz.\nOil of orange peel 5 drm.\nOil of cloves 3 drm.\nOil of sassafras 2 drm.\nLiquid storax 1 drm.\nPut them into a bottle, cork it close, digest in\nthe sun, or a very gentle heat, with agitation\nfor two hours, and, after repose for a week*\ndecant the clear portion.\n3. Marechale.—\nOil of bergamot 1 oz.\nOil of cloves 1 oz.\nOil of lavender (English) 1 oz.\nEssence of ambergris lYz fl. drm\nEssence of musk lYz fl. drm\nOil of orris root Yz drm.\nOil of origanum Yz drm.\nOil of sassafras Yz drm.\nAgitate them well together, and again each\ntime before use.\n4. Millefleur.—\nEssence of ambergris (royale,\nfinest) 1 fl. oz.\nOil of lemon oz.\nOil of cloves Yz oz.\nOil of lavender (English) Yz oz.\nOil of bergamot 3 drm.\nEssence de petit grain 2 drm.\nBalsam of Peru 2 drm.\nOil of cassia 2 drm.\nMix and proceed as before. Or, instead of the\nbalsam of Peru, 1 drm. oil of bitter almonds\nmay be added.\nVanilla Oil and Pomade.— Vanilla pods, 34 lb.;\nfat or oil, 4 lb. Macerate at a temperature of\n25° C. for three or four days, finally strain.\nCommon Violet Pomatum.— Purified lard, lib.;\nwashed acacia pomatum, 6 oz.; washed rose\npomatum, 4 oz.\nWhite, Hard or Stick Pomatum.— Benzoinated\nsuet, 1 lb.; white wax or paraffine, 1 lb.; jasmine\npomatum, Yz lb.; tuberose pomatum, Yz lb.; otto\nof rose, 1 drm.\nPommade Collante (for wigs and false curls).—\nTake \\Yz lb. of best Burgundy pitch, 8 oz. virgin\nwax, melt them together in a stoneware vessel*\nand add 1 oz. of liquid pomade. Remove from\nthe bath, and, while yet liquid and warm, stir\nin 7 fl. oz. of alcohol; when the spirit has been\nwell inc urporated, replace the vessel upon the","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0475.jp2"},"472":{"fulltext":"Pop.\n460\nPot Pourri.\nsand bath, and heat up to a slight boiling; then\nstrain through a linen cloth, perfume with 2 oz.\nessence bergamot, and, when cold enough, run\ninto moulds.\nTo move readily from the moulds, turn them\nbefore the fire, and the contents soon detach\nand fall out. While handling these sticks, the\nhands should be powdered. They are generally\nfrom 1 to 3 oz. weight.\nPop.— Five lb. of cream of tartar ginger,\nS oz. sugar, 05 lb. essence of lemon, 5 drm.\nwater, 30 gal. yeast, 2 qt„\nGinger Pop.— Take 5 gal. water; ginger\nroot (bruised), lb. tartaric acid, y% oz.\nwhite sugar, 2J4 lb.; whites of 3 eggs, well\nbeaten 1 small teaspoonf ul lemon oil 1 gill\nyeast. Boil the root for 30 minutes in 1 gal.\nwater; strain and put the oil in while hot;\nmix. Make overnight in the morning skim\nand bottle.\nGinger Pop.— Five lb. of loaf sugar to 5 gal. of\ncold water, 4 lemons, 2 cz. white root ginger,\n4 oz. cream tartar. Boil the sugar and ginger\n(previously pound the latter); when it has boil-\ned fifteen minutes strain it through a flannel\ncloth into a large crock, put in the cream tar-\ntar, slice also the lemon into it let it stand\nuntil milk warm, then add a teacup of yeast\nlet it stand a little, then bottle it tightly in\nStone bottles in three days it will be fit for use.\nPop, Imperial.— Cream of tartar, 3 oz. gin-\nger, 1 oz. white sugar, 24 oz. lemon juice, 1\noz. boiling water, 1% gal. When cool, strain\nand ferment with 1 oz. yeast. Bottle.\nRoyal Pop. To 3 gal. of water add lb.\ncream tartar, oz. ginger, 3V 2 lb. white\nsugar, y% drm. essence of lemon, J£ pt. yeast.\nThe corks should be tied down.\nPorcelain, Cement for. See Cements.\nPorcelain, to Cut.— Place on a mandrel in\na lathe a thin disk of copper or iron 3 in. in\ndiameter. Supply it with rather fine emery\nand oil, and while revolving it at a speed of\n400 or 500 revolutions per minute, hold the vase\nagainst the periphery of the disk. The disk\nshould be often supplied with emery and oil.\nPorcelain Enamel for Iron. See\nEnameling.\nPorcelain, Glazes Cor. See Glazes.\nPorcelain-Lined Kettles.— Grind toge-\nther 100 parts of powdeied calcined flints (or\nwhite quartz sand, free from iron), 50 parts of\ncalcined borax (borax glass), and 20 parts of\nkaolin (white potter s clay), pass the mixture\nthrough an 80 mesh sieve, and mix it with water\nto form a thin paste. Line the vessel with\nthis and let it dry slowly. Then fuse together\n125 parts of white glass, 250 parts of borax, and\n20 parts of soda powder when cold, and make\ninto a thin paste with 4 parts of soda and a suf-\nficient quantity of hot water. Cover the first\ncoating with this, and after thoroughly drying,\nheat in a muffle until the glazing is properly\nfused. See Enameling-.\nPorcelain Painting-.— Though materials\nfor this purpose can be made, the results will be\nmore satisfactory if the specially prepared\npaints are used, as experiments are expensive.\nThe Lacroix colors are recommended by Jan-\nvier, in his Practical Keramics.\nPorphyrization.— The reduction of sub-\nstances in a porphyry mortar. Name also ap-\nplied to the process of reducing to very fine\npowder by means of a flat slab and muller.\nPort. See Wines.\nPorter.— A fermented liquor, brewed from\npale malt, mixed with a sufficient portion of\nnigh dried malt to impart the necessary color\nand flavor. In many cases its color is imparted\nby parched malt or burnt sugar, subsequently\nto the boiling. Porter originated with a Lon-\ndon brewer named Harwood, in 1722. and was\nfirst called entire, or entire butt, from being\ndrawri from one cask.\nPort Fires. See Pyrotechny.\nPortland Cement. See Cements.\nPortugal Water. See Waters.\nPosological Table for proportioning the\ndoses of medicines to the age of the patient,\noriginally drawn up by Gaubius.\nUnder year of a full dose.\n1 A\n2 years\n3 i\n4\n7 \\i\n14 Yz\n20\nAbove 21 the full dose.\n63 H of a full dose.\n77 I\n100 y s\nDr. Young gives the following simple for-\nmula: For children under twelve years, the\ndoses of most medicines must be diminished in\nthe proportion of the age to the age increased\nby twelve years. Thus, at two years, the dose\nwill be one-seventh of that for an adult,\n2\nviz.\n2 12\nPotasli Water, Liquor of Potassa, Solu-\ntion of Potassa, Caustic Potash Water, Potash\nSoap Lye (pure), Soft Soap Lye, etc.\nCarbonate of notash (salt of tar-\ntar) T 1 lb.\nPut it into a green glass or stoneware carboy\nor jar, and add (cautiously) of—\nWater, boiling 1 gal.\nTo the resulting solution further add of\nFresh slaked lime, dry lb.\nNext put in the stopper or bung, and shake\nthe vessel very frequently until the whole has\nbecome cold. After repose decant the clear\nsupernatant portion into clean green glass well\nstoppered bottles.\nPotatoes, to Preserve.— For preserving\npotatoes in store, the floor is sprinkled with\nfine quicklime; this is covered with a layer (4 to\n5 in. thick) of potatoes; this by a sprinkling of\nquicklime again, and so on, using the lime in\nthe proportion of about 1 measure to 40 mea-\nsures of potatoes. This method checks disease\nwhen it is present, and improves the potatoes\nif they are watery or waxy. Layers of straw\nand powdered plaster of Paris may be substi-\ntuted for the lime.\nPotin. See Alloys.\nPot Metal. See Alloys.\nPot Pourri.— 1. Spread thinly the fresh col-\nlected flowers on porous paper placed in shal-\nlow trays, and expose them to the sun or warm\nair until sufficiently dry, then lightly crum-\nple them up small between the hands, and, the\nother dry odorous ingredients being added,\nwith or without a little essential oil of the same\nkind as the dried flowers, thoroughly mix\nthe whole together. Sometimes essential oils\nonly are added to the dry flowers, but the\nfragrance of the product is then much less dur-\nable. As the basis of his finest dry pot pourri,\nthe Continental perfumer usually substitutes\neither reindeer moss or ragged hoary evernia,\nin very coarse powder, for the dried flowers.\n2. A mixture of odorous flowers, roots, gums,\netc., varied according to the taste of the opera-\ntor, either mixed together dry or in the fresh\nstate preserved with salt. The following is a\nFrench formula Take the petals of the pale\nand red roses, pinks, violets, orange flower,\nlilies of the valley, mignonette, heliotrope, jon-\nquils, with a small proportion of the flowers of\nmyrtle, balm, rosemary, and thyme; spread\nthem out for some days, and as they become\ndry, put them into a jar, with alternate layers\nof dry salt, mixed with orris powder, till the","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0476.jp2"},"473":{"fulltext":"Pottery.\n461\nPowders.\nvessel is filled. Close it for a month, stir the\nwhole up and moisten with rose water.\n3. Pot-pourri is a mixture of dried petals of\nroses, violets, etc., mixed with 1-10 its weight\nof salt. The leaves of fresh roses, etc., are col-\nlected and dried on porous paper in the sun\nas soon as dry they are placed in a jar in layers\nalternating with the salt. Powdered orris root\nand extracts and many other ingredients may\nbe added according to taste.\n4. This is a mixture of dried flowers and\nspices not ground. Dried lavender, 1 lb.;\nwhole rose leaves, 1 lb.; crushed orris (coarse),\n\\ii lb.; broken cloves, cinnamon, allspice, each\n2 oz.; table salt, 1 lb.\n5. Lavender flowers, 1 lb.; rose leaves, 1 lb.;\ncloves, 341b.; cinnamon, 34 lb-; benzoin, J4 lb-;\npimento, 34 lb.; common salt, 2% lb.; oil of lav-\nender, 60 minims oil santal, 60 minims oil of\ngeranium, 60 minims oil bergamot, 120 min-\nims; oil lemon, 60 minims; vanilla, 3 oz.; musk\npods, 1 oz.; essence ambergris, y% oz. Solids all\nground.\n6. Pot-pourri (for mixing with rose leaves).—\nTonka bean, part cinnamon, pimento, 1 oz.\nof each coriander, 4 oz.; benzoin, 5 oz.; orris\nroot, 1 lb. Reduce to powder, mix, add J^ oz.\nessence bouquet toward end.\nPottery, to Convert into Antique.\nThe way to convert modern pottery into the\nantique is to boil the former in oil and bury it\nin wood ashes. One will be astonished to find\nhow quickly the new article will become in ap-\npearance a veritable antique.\nPottery, to Stain. See Staining.\nPoultices.— Bran Poultice.— Make it like\nporridge, and put it into a bag. Be sure not to\nmake it so soft as that any water will trickle\ndown to annoy the patient,\nBread and Milk Poultice— Stale bread, cold\nmilk. Boil bread with enough milk to make a\nthick pulp; spread it on a piece of soft cotton\nand apply it very hot. This poultice is often\napplied without a cloth between it and the af-\nfected part, but poultices put into a bag are\ncleaner and easier rewarmed. Bread poultices\nare cleansing and soothing.\nFomentation of Camomile Flowers.— Two oz.\ncamomile flowers.\nPut into a jar with 2 teacupfuls of water,\ncover jar very close, let it come to the boil, and\ninfuse for fifteen minutes, keeping lid close on\njar all the time; strain off the hot liquor, keep\nit hot, dip pieces of flannel into it, and apply\nexternally to the part affected. Good to allay\nswelling and inflammation.\nLinseed Meal Poultices.— Linseed meal, boil-\ning water.\nPut sufficient meal to make the poultice the\nsize required into a hot bowl, and pour on boil-\ning water enough to make a soft paste; beat\nquickly for three minutes, or till it looks oily.\nHave ready a flannel or cotton bag, the size re-\nquired; pour in the paste, sew up the mouth of\nthe bag quickly. Apply the poultice to the\naffected part as hot as can be borne.\nIf ordered with mustard, mix a tablespoon-\nful of dry mustard with the meal. Good for\ninflammation.\nMustard Poultices.— Dry mustard, cold water.\nMix enough cold water with the mustard to\nmake it into a thick paste; when quite smooth,\nspread it upon a piece of thin old linen, or cot-\nton; sew it round so as to form a bag. Be care-\nful not to make the poultice larger than re-\nquired; hold it to the fire for a few minutes,\nso as not to chill your patient; time, from fif-\nteen to thirty minutes; have ready a piece of\nclean soft cotton, or a piece of clean wadding,\nand when you take off the mustard poultice,\nput on the wadding or the cotton.\nVinegar Poultice.— Crumb of bread soaked in\na little cold vinegar and then beaten with a\npiece of wood to a smooth paste. A popular\napplication in bruises, extravasations, etc., es-\npecially black eyes, also in sprains. Verjuice\nis often substituted for vinegar in the rural\ndistricts.\nPoultry.— Poultry Food to Make Hens Lay\nduring Winter.\nPowdered eggshell or phosphate\nof lime 4 oz.\nSulphate of iron 4 oz.\nPowdered capsicum 4 oz.\nPowdered fenugreek 2 oz.\nPowdered black pepper 1 oz.\nSilver sand 2 oz.\nPowdered lentils or powdered\ndog biscuit 6 oz.\nA tablespoon! ul to be mixed with sufficient\nmeal or porridge to feed 20 hens.\nLice in Poultry. Make the roosts perfectly\nclean with hot soap and water, and afterward\napply spirits of turpentine or kerosene oil.\nAlso strew some sprigs and branches over the\nfloor of the coop. The building should be kept\nclean.\nPounce.— Powdered gum sandarac gener-\nally passes by this name. Powdered cuttle\nfish bone is also used. It is used to prepare\nparchment for writing, The colored powders\nare used in stamping.\nPouncing Designs.— Prick, the outline through\nthe paper, and after placing over the sheet to\nbe marked, dust the back with a bag contain-\ning powdered charcoal.\nPowders.- Baking Powders.—\n1. Tartaric acid powder 8 oz.\nBicarbonate soda 9 oz.\nRice flour 10 oz.\nA teaspoon! ul to every 1 lb. flour.\n2. Bicarbonate soda 1 lb.\nFarina 1 lb.\nPowdered alum lb.\nCarbonate magnesia J^oz.\nDry in oven separately. Magnesia may be put\non the flour. Tartaric acid may replace the\nalum.\n3. Bicarbonate soda 16 oz.\nTartaric acid 14 oz.\nCarbonate magnesia 6 oz.\nFarina 12 oz.\nRub through a sieve.\n4. Bicarbonate soda 16 oz.\nDry tartaric acid 8 oz.\nRice flour 12 oz.\n5. Dry carbonate soda 8 oz.\nDry tartaric acid 6 oz.\nCarbonate magnesia 2 oz.\nTurmeric powder 1 oz.\nThe soda and acid are properly dried before-\nmixing, or the powder spoils by keeping.\nPreserve in stoppered bottles.\n6. Bicarbonate of soda 4 oz.\nTartaric acid 3 oz.\nFarina 16 oz.\nMix together. By farina is meant any cheap\nfarinaceous material wheat, rice, or sago\nflours, etc. To make the packets requires a\npiece of wood, say 6 in. long for small packets,\nand the exact size in thickness and width that\nthe packet is to be. The end of this piece\nshould fit into a block of wood and go through\nit. Take the paper and fold it on the end of\nthe stick, and close it at the end so as to make\na square bag now put the stick with the paper\non it into the block, and withdraw the stick,\nleaving the paper in the block. It is more con-\nvenient to measure the powder than to weigh\nit. Put the powder in a small tin plate funnel,\nand shake it into the paper remove the fun-\nnel, and fold down the other end of the paper,\nflatten the folds with the end of the square\nstick and push the packet out of the block.\nThe whole operation of making the packet,\nshould take a very short time.\n7. Tartaric acid J^ lb.\nBicarbonate of soda 12 oz.\nStarch 12 oz.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0477.jp2"},"474":{"fulltext":"Powders.\n462\nPowders.\nDry each thoroughly previous to admixture,\nwhich is effected by passing- through a fine\nsieve repeatedly; pack the powder down\ntightly, to prevent the absorption of moisture.\n8. Goodall s is a compound of—\nRice flour 2 parts.\nA mixture of tartaric acid and\nbicarbonate of soda (each) 1 part.\n9. Horsf ord s Baking Powder.— One powder\ncontains acid phosphate of lime and magnesia\nmixed with a certain quantity of flour the\nother is bicarbonate of soda.\n10. Mix together perfectly dry 83 parts by\nweight of bicarbonate of soda and 188 parts of\nacid tartrate of potash (cream of tartar).\n11. Green s. Tartaric acid, 35 lb.; sesquicar-\nbonate of soda, 561b.; potato flour, 1 cwt. Mix as\nbefore.\n12. Delforte s.— Powdered tartaric acid, J4 lb.;\npowdered alum, y% lb.; bicarbonate of soda,\nlb.; farina, 1 lb. Dry separately by a gentle\nheat, mix and further add of sesquicarbonate\nof ammonia (in powder), 3 oz.; lastly, closely\npack it in tinfoil.\n13. Bicarbonate of soda, 4 oz.; cream of tartar,\n9 oz.; fine starch, 7 oz. Dry separately and mix\nthoroughly. It must be kept from moisture.\nBoot Powder.— Poudre steatite de Florence.—\n1. For drawing on boots. The steatite (soap-\nstone) is a variety of talc, white, gray or green,\nand sometimes, but rarely, red and yellow, of\nspecific gravity varying from 2 60 to 2 66. It is\na very soft stone and can be colored of many\nshades with substances soluble in oils, acids,\nalkalies and alcohol.\nIt is used naturally or colored, according to\nehoice. The unctious property of this sub-\nstance renders it particularly applicable in\nfacilitating the entrance of the foot into the\nboot. It suffices merely to sprinkle the powder\nin the interior of the boot.\n2. French chalk reduced to powder by scrap-\ning or grating. Used to facilitate the putting\nen of new or tight boots, a little of it being\nrubbed on the inside of the backs, heels ana in-\nsteps.\n3. Boot Tops, Pink Powders for.— Oxalic acid,\nalum, 1 oz. each; cream of tartar and isinglass,\n3^ oz. of each. Color with cochineal or annatto.\nBoil the whole in 1 qt. of water for ten min-\nutes.\nBronze Powder. See Bronzing.\nCosmetic Powders. (Fr. Poudre.) See also\nRouges.\n1. Poudre de Frangipane, Frangipanni Pow-\nder.\nPoudre de Chipre lb.\nPoudre aux fleurs d oranges. lb.\nEssence of ambergris 1 fl. drm\nCivet (in fine powder) 4 or 5 grn.\nProceed as for poudre de Montpellier (ante).\n2. Poudre a la Marechale.\nCyprus powder 1 lb.\nStarch or farina 3^ lb.\nCalamus aromaticus (root) 1 oz.\nCloves 1 oz.\nCyperus perennis or rotundus 1 oz.\nSeparately powdered and mixed, as before.\nPale ash gray.\n3. Starch or farina. 2 lb.\nCloves 1 oz.\nOrris root oz.\nEssence of ambergi is (or royale) 20 drops.\nAs before. White.\n4. Poudre de Millefleurs, Millefleur Powder.—\nPoudre de Chipre V/ lb.\nEau or extrait de millefleurs Vrfz fl. drm\nMix, as before. On the large scale, the\nsolid and liquid scents employed to make the\neau or extrait are directly added to the pow-\nder as in the poudresde Montpellier, Marechale,\netc.\n5. Poudre la Vanille.—\nCyprus powder 1J^ lb.\nVanilla (in fine powder) V/% drm.\nCloves (in fine powder) drm.\nEssence of ambergris 8 or 10 drops\nMix, as before. Or it may be made like pou-\ndre de millefleurs, by the simple addition of a\nlittle essence of vanilla to the plain powder.\n6. Bran of Almonds.— Make an emulsion of\n4 parts of sweet almonds, blanched, with 6\nparts of water; press and dry the residue\nthoroughly. Rub to a powder, and add 1 part\npulverized orris root.\n7. Blanc de Circassie( Circassian White).— Make\na slightly blued water with a little ultramarine,\nand dissolve therein a very small portion of\npowdered gum tragacanth. With this solution\nthin out a very finely powdered Venetian talc,\nand of this paste form troches or lumps by\npushing the mass through the barrel of a glass\nfunnel, and catching the drops upon white\npaper. When these drops are dry, they are\ngently loosed and packed separately in hand-\nsomely ornamented paper boxes, or in elegant\nchina pots, similar to those for the red paints,\nbut in this case a little juice of lemon should\nbe added to give consistence.\n8. Complexion Powder.— Violet.—\nBest starch 25 lb.\nTerra alba 25 lb.\nTalc (without mica) 25 lb.\nFrench chalk 25 lb.\nPulverized orris 10 lb.\nGrind well together with 8 oz. Turkish gera-\nnium oil, 2 oz. oil of citronella, then sift\nthrough fine wire sieve.\nFor flesh tint.— Add to 2 lb. of the violet\npowder 8 oz. carmine. Triturate carefully and\ncompletely; when thoroughly ground, add\nviolet powder until the desired color is ob-\ntained.\n9. Harmless Cosmetic Powders.— The Journal\nof Pharmacy announces the fact that the\napothecaries of Copenhagen have agreed on\nthe substitution of certain harmless com-\npounds for the numerous poisonous face pow-\nders now commonly used. In avoirdupois\nweight, the proportions of the ingredients will\nbe about as follows For white powder, oxide\nof zinc, 1 oz.; wheat starch, 9 oz.; oil of rose,\n3 drops.\n10. For Red Powder. Carmine, 1 oz.; carbon-\nate of magnesia, 4 oz.\n11. Rose Face Powder.— Rice starch, 7 lb.;\nrose pink, y% drm.; otto of rose, 2 drm.; otto of\nsantal, 2 drm.\n12. Poudre de la Mer Rouge, by Cambou,\nParis.—\nAlum 1 lb.\nWhite sugar 1 oz.\nGum arabic (best) 1 oz.\nCarmine .1 oz.\nMix and reduce the whole to an impalpable\npowder, and sieve through a fine cloth.\nThis powder, its author says, is curative of\nthe ringworm, red blotches and pimples.\nIt is tied up loosely in a bag, and this bag,\nmoistened with fresh water, is rubbed gently\nover the skin.\n13. Face Powder.— Starch, 1 lb.; oxide of bis-\nmuth, 4 oz. The use of bismuth cannot be too\nstrongly reprehended.\n14. Enamel Powder.—\nTalc or French chalk (finely\nscraped) 1 part.\nPearl white 1 part.\nRouge or carmine (to slightly\ntinge it) q. s.\nMix. Used to conceal discolorations, and,\nwithout the coloring, to whiten the skin.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0478.jp2"},"475":{"fulltext":"Powders.\n463\nPowders.\n15. Poudre Orientate.—\nPeeled sweet almonds 2 lb.\nRice flour 4 oz.\nOrris root 4 oz.\nBenzoin 4 oz.\nSpermaceti 3 drm.\nPotassium carbonate 3 drm.\nVolatile oil of rhodium wood .30 drops.\nVolatile oil of lavender 30 drops.\nVolatile oil of cloves 30 drops.\nMix the whole and sieve finely. This powder\nis very mild and agreeable.\n16. Poudre d Iris, Absorbent Powder.—\nPowdered orris root 12 lb.\nPowdered bergamot peel 8 oz.\nPowdered acacia flowers 8 oz.\nPowdered cloves J^ oz.\nMix and pass through a sieve. The labels ac-\ncompanying the boxes in which this powder is\npacked should direct its application at evening,\nand its removal from the hair with a fine tooth\ncomb the following morning.\n17. Pearl White, Pearl Powder.— This, as al-\nready noticed, is properly the basic chloride or\nsubchloride of bismuth. It is a pearly white,\ninodorous powder. To obtain it in the great-\nest beauty, it should be precipitated from a\nrather concentrated acid solution of the metal,\nand should be dried at a very gentle heat in the\nshade. The continued use of either of the\nabove bismuth whites injures the skin, and\nultimately produces paralysis of its minute\nvessels, rendering it yellow and leather-like\nan effect which, unfortunately, those who em-\nploy it generally attempt to conceal by its freer\nand more frequent application. The following\nis also often sold under the above name\n18. Pearl Powder, Gosmetic P. P.— Pure\npearl white and French chalk or talc, equal*\nparts, triturated together. It is generally pre-\nferred by ladies to pearl white alone, from\nbeing more adhesive. The French chalk, for\nthis purpose, is said to be best reduced to\npowder by scraping it with Dutch rushes. Some\nmakers add a little more chalk.\n19. Perle Powder.— French chalk, 1 lb.; oxide\n•of bismuth, 1 oz.; oxide of zinc, 1 oz.\n20. Toilet Powder, Skin Powder.—\nStarch or farina (in fine powder). 1 lb.\nOrris root (do.) J^to%oz.\nEssence of ambergris 10 drops.\nOil of bergamot 10 drops.\nOil of rhodium. 2 drops.\nMix thoroughly, and rub the whole through\n.a fine gauze sieve. Very fine. It should be\nput up in packets of thin non-porous paste-\nboard, and packed moderately close, to prevent\nloss of odor.\n21. Powdered starch or farina 1J^ lb.\nOil of bergamot y^ fl.drm.\nOH of cloves laro ps! 5\nAs before. This forms the common powder\nof the shops.\n22. Pistachio Nut Toilet Powder.— Starch of\npistachio nuts, 7 lb.; French chalk in fine pow-\nder, 7 1b.; otto of rose and lavender, each 1 drm.\nWeil sifted through a fine sieve.\nCurry (Currie) Powder.— 1. Coriander seeds,\n20 parts; black pepper, 3 parts; cayenne pepper,\n1 part; turmeric, 6 parts; cummin seeds, 6\nparts. Reduce to powder and mix.\n2. The Food Journal indorses the following\nrecipe as affording the closest approach to a\nSingapore curry powder that can be obtained\noutside of the tropics\nOne coconut and one lime sliced.\nCardamoms, thoroughly ground. 2 oz.\nCinnamon, thoroughly ground... 2 oz.\nChillies, thoroughly ground 1 oz.\nCoriander seed, thoroughly\nground 4 oz.\nBlack pepper, thoroughly ground 4 oz.\nMustard seed, thoroughly ground 2 oz.\nTurmeric, thoroughly ground... 5 oz.\nGinger, thoroughly ground 4 oz.\n3. Ford s.— Turmeric, 12 oz.; coriander seed,\n12 oz.; ginger, 12 oz.; black pepper, 12 oz.; capsi-\ncums, 9oz.; cardamoms, 6 oz.; cummin seed, 6\noz.; mint, 3 oz. These should be ground sep-\narately into fine powder, and weigh as above\nafter being ground. Mix thoroughly by sifting\nall together.\nDusting Powders.— McCall Anderson s Dust-\ning Powder. The powder, after being well\ntriturated, should be bolted.\nCamphor 3 drm.\nZinc oxide 4 drm.\nStarch 16 drm.\nFlash Light Powder. See Photography.\nFly Powder.— Prep. White arsenic, 4 oz.; white\nsugar, 6 lb.; rose pink, 1 oz.; mix, and put 6\ndrm. in each paper. It is poisonous, and should\nbe employed with great caution, especially\nwhere there are children.\nInfusorial Eavrth as a Dusting Powder.— Infu-\nsorial earth, sterilized by being subjected to a\nheat sufficient to cause it to glow, constitutes,\nit is said, an excellent inert dusting powder.\nIt is capable of absorbing about six times its\nown weight of water. Mixtures of equal parts\nof this earth, thus dried, with salicylic acid,\nsalol, or iodoform, have proved of equal use.\nFoot Powder.— Dr. Oscar Bernar, Vienna.—\nAn unfailing remedy for sweaty feet and bad\nodor of the feet. Powdered alum, 21 parts;\nmaize meal, 1 part.\nGlove Powder.— 1. Castile soap, dried by expos-\nure to a warm, dry atmosphere for a few days,\nand then reduced to fine powder in a mortar.\nUsed to clean gloves.\n2. Pipe clay, colored with yellow ocher, umber,\nor Irish slate, q. s., and afterward scented with\na little powdered orris root, or cloves. Used to\ncolor gloves made of doeskin and similar\nleather.\nGold Powder.— Pulvis Auri.— Triturate gold\nleaf with ten or twelve times its weight of sul-\nphate of potash, till bright particles are no\nlonger visible; pass it through a sieve; mix\nwith boiling water, wash what remains on the\nfilter and dry in a stove.\nGunpowder.— The composition of powder is\nvaried considerably to adapt it to special usage.\nTheoretically the proper composition for a\npowder in which the full force of a completed\nreaction between the ingredients employed\nwould take place would be\nNiter (pure) 74*64\nCarbon (pure charcoal) 13*51\nSulphur (pure) 11*85\n100*00\nIn practice, however, the following are\nfound best adapted for the several purposes\nindicated\nNiter. Char. Sul.\nFor U. S. military service 76 14\nFor sporting ..78 12\nFor blasting 62 18 20\nOf course much depends upon the thorough-\nness with which these ingredients are mixed\ntogether, granulated, and dried. But the man-\nufacture is one attended with great danger and\nshould not on that account be attempted.\nPowder, Power of.— In small blasts, 1 lb. of\npowder will loosen about 4^ tons; in large\nblasts, 1 lb. of powder will loosen about 2%\ntons. One man can bore, with a bit 1 in. in\ndiameter, from 50 in. to 100 in. per day of ten\nhours in granite, or 300 in. to 400 in. per day in\nlimestone.\nHair Powder.— (Son prepare et perfume).—\n1. For cleaning the hair. Powder very finely\nand carefully the bran of wheat, perfectly and\nabsolutely dry, and, to every pound add 2 oz.\npowdered orris, and pass through a sieve.\n2. Hair Wash Powder.— Powdered borax, lib.;\ncamphor, 1 drm.; oil of bergamot, 20 min.\nMix.\n3. Poudre Blonde (for the hair).— Add yellow\nocher to the best pearl starch, finely powdered,\nuntil the desired shade is obtained.\nIB","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0479.jp2"},"476":{"fulltext":"Powders.\n464\nPowders.\n4. Starch (finely powdered), V/% lb.; orris root,\nYq oz.; oil of rhodium, 5 drops.\n5. Plain or Unscented Hair Powder.— Pure\nwheat starch.\n6. Starch reduced to very fine powder, and\nthen scented according to the fancy; it is lastly\npassed through a gauze sieve. In its simple\nform without any addition it constitutes plain\nhair powder. In other cases, it is distinguished\nby the name of the substance added to per-\nfume it. Thus we have rose hair powder, vio-\nlet hair powder, etc. Potato farina, well tritu-\nrated, is now commonly nsed for hair powder.\n7. Poudre de Gomme (for false toupets).—\nPowder equal parts of gums arabic and traga-\ncanth, and add J4. of powder of orris, or white\nperfumed powder, with of pulverized sugar\ncandy. When used this composition is to be\nmade into a pasty consistence with a sufficient\nquantity of water.\nHand Powder.— Almond paste, and other like\ncosmetic powders, often receive this name.\nThe product of the following formula is also\nmuch esteemed among the higher classes\nTake of—\nAlmond powder. J. lb.\nCuttle fish bone (powdered) 5 oz.\nCurd soap (air dried, powdered).. 2}£ oz.\nWhite Castile soap (air dried,\npowdered) 2% oz.\nOrris root (in fine powder) V/% oz.\nMix and pass the whole through a fine sieve,\nUsed to clean, soften, and whiten the hands,\nand to prevent chaps and chilblains.\nInsect Powder, Constituents of. M. Lacour\nEymard communicates to IS Union Pharma-\nceutique the results of an investigation which\nhe has concluded on Dalmation insect powder,\nthe object being to ascertain why some pow-\nders of commerce differ from the proprietary\npowders. A portion of the powder was first\nsubmitted to the ordinary process for the dis-\ntillation of essential oil, and a distillate was\nobtained which was opaque, owing to the\npresence of a very small quantity of essential\noil, possessing the characteristic odor of the\nflowers. Some bugs and ants were put along\nwith a portion of this odorous substance under\na bell glass, but after eight hours they were as\nlively as ever, entirely unaffected by the vola-\ntile essence. M. Jousset de Bellerme has\nalready shown that the essential oil of\nPyrethrum carneum is without influence on\ninsect life, and the same is also true of the\npyrethrum of the Caucasus. We may recall\nthe fact that Hirschsohn has recently come to\nthe same conclusion. Continuing his work, M.\nEymard extracted the resinous matter of the\npowder by means of ether, obtaining 5 6$ of\ndry product, 3*8 of it being fatty matter and 1*8\nresin. An alcoholic solution of the entire resi-\ndue was placed on paper, the alcohol allowed\nto evaporate, and some insects placed on the\npaper. Immediately the insects showed symp-\ntoms of much agitation, and within five min-\nutes they died. A solution of the resin alone\nhad exactly the same effect. Alcoholic and\naqueous extracts of the powder were also\nmade, but these proved to be innocuous to in-\nsects, and M. Eymard concludes that there is\nno doubt that it is the ether-soluble resin which\nis the insect killing constituent, and that the\nfiner the powder is, the more active it is. The\nfollowing is the result of the complete analysis\nof the powder\nEssential oil A trace.\nFatty bodies, soluble in ether B 8%.\nResin, soluble in ether V8%.\nBrown resin, soluble in alcohol 4*8$.\nVegetable albumen V75%.\nGummy matter 14*75$.\nInulin and starch 8 b%.\nMineral salts 7 88^.\nWoody matter 56 72#.\nThe ash 7 885# consisted of potassium\nchloride, 1*94 calcium carbonate, 4*15 calcium\nphosphate, 0 17 silica and iron, 1*625. A mere\ntrace of iron was only found. In arecentinves-\ntigation Messrs.Schlagdenhauf een Reeb ascer-\ntained that the active principle of pyrethrum\nflowers is an acid (pyrethrotoxic acid) soluble\nin alcohol, amylic alcohol, ether and chloro-\nform, which may be isolated by means of\nether after having been converted into an\nalkaline salt and decomposed by tartaric acid\nin aqueous solution. Apparently this is the\nresin above mentioned.\nLycopodium Powder.— An absorbent and for\nexcoriated surfaces in infants. Lycopodium\nlb.; rose or violet toilet powder, 1 lb.\nMagnesium Powder.—\nChlorate of potash 3 parts.\nPerchlorate of potash 3 parts.\nMagnesium powder 4 parts.\nMeen Fun (Chinese Skin Powder).— Magne-\nsian earth— very absorbent.\nPowder, Ink. See Inks.\nMoth Powder. Lupulin (flour of hops), 1\ndrm.; Scotch snuff, 2 oz.; gum camphor, 1 oz.;\nblack pepper, 1 oz.; cedar sawdust, 4 oz. Mix\nthoroughly and strew, or put in papers, among\nthe furs or woolens to be protected.\nNail Powder.— The nails should be cut at least\nonce in two weeks. A sharp penknife produces\na smoother edge than scissors. Some persons\npush the quick down with the towel every time\nthey wash their hands, but small ivory nail\ncleaners are preferred. The best nail powder\nconsists of pure oxide of tin perfumed with\notto of lavender and tinted with carmine.\nPolishing Powder. See Polishing.\nPutz Powder. See Polishing.\nSachet Powders.— The material is either to be\nground in a mill or powdered in a mortar, and\nafterward sifted.\n1. Acacia Sachet.— Cassie flower heads, 1 lb.;\norris powder, 1 lb.\n2. Scent Powder.— The following recipe for\nscent powder to be used for wardrobes, boxes,\netc., gives an article far superior to the mix-\ntures sold in the shops: Coriander, 1 oz.; orris\nroot, 1 oz.; rose leaves, 1 oz.; and aromatic cala-\nmus, 1 oz.; lavender flowers, 2 oz.; rhodium\nwood, J4 drm.; musk, 5 grn. These are reduced\nto a coarse powder. The scent on the clothes\nis as if all fragrant flowers had been pressed in\ntheir folds.\n3. Take of reindeer moss, in coarse powder,\nany quantity, and very strongly scent it witn\nany of the compound fragrant essences, or\nwith the perfumes of which they are made, or\nwith mixed essential oils, at will.\n4. Orris root (in coarse powder) 2 oz.\nCassia (in coarse powder) 1)4 oz.\nCloves (in coarse powder) 1 oz.\nCedar wood (rasped) J4 oz.\n34 oz.\n1\n1\n10\nYellow sandal wood (rasped)\nAmbergris (in fine powder) -j\nMusk (in fine powder) -j\nMix, add of—\nOil of lavender (Mitcham)\nOil of bergamot\nOtto of roses j\nAnd blend the whole thoroughly together.\n5. Coriander seed. 4\nOrris root 4\nCalamus aromaticus (root) 4\nRose leaves (lightly air dried) 4\nLavender flowers (lightly air\ndried)\nRhodium wood (rasped) j ^drm\nMusk (powdered) j 15 20\nCivet (powdered) j 10\nAs before.\nor 6\ngrn.\nor 6\ngrn.\ndrm.\ndrm.\nto 15\ndrops.\noz.\noz.\noz.\noz.\n8 oz.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0480.jp2"},"477":{"fulltext":"Powders.\n465\nPowders.\n6. As the last, but adding of—\nAllspice 1)4, oz.\nCloves y% oz.\nMace 34 oz.\nOil of lavender (Mitcham) )4 drm.\nKeplace the musk and civet, in Nos. 5 and 6,\nby essential oil of almonds, 1 fl. drm.\n7. Patchouli 8 oz.\nLavender flowers (lightly dried) 3 oz.\nOrris root 2 oz.\nCloves 1 oz.\nOil of bergamot 1 fl. drm\nOil of lavender (Mitcham) J^ fl. drm\nEssence of ambergris )4 A- drm\nEssence of musk )4 fl. drm\nThe above are used, along with cotton wool,\nto fill scent bags, cassolettes, etc., and as scent\npowders for boxes, drawers, wardrobes, and\nthe like. For the latter, besides their fra-\ngrance, they are useful in keeping away moths\nand other insects. They are also used beaten\nup with mucilage, to form scent balls, medal-\nlions, etc.\n8. Sachet au Chypre.— Ground rose wood, 1\nlb.; ground cedar wood, 1 lb. ground santal\nwood, 1 lb. otto of rose wood, 3 drm. Mix\nand sift.\n9. Frangipanni Powder.—\nPowdered violet roots 3 lb.\nPowdered sandal wood 34 lb-\nOrange oil 1 drm.\nRose oil 1 drm.\nOil of sandal wood 1 drm.\nPulverized musk 1 oz.\nPulverized civet 2 drm.\n10. Sachet of Heliotrope.— Take-\nPowdered orris root 2,000 parts.\nPowdered rosa centif olia 1,000 parts.\nPowdered tonka bean 500 parts.\nCut vanilla bean 250 parts.\nPowdered musk 10 parts.\nEssential oil of bitter al-\nmonds 1 part.\nPound the musk and vanilla bean, together,\nand add the rest. Pass through a not close\nsieve. This is an excellent imitation of helio-\ntrope.\n11. Sachet of Lavender. This and the two\nfollowing recipes are from Piesse. Take-\nPowdered lavender 75 parts.\nPowdered benzoin 20 parts.\nEssential oil of lavender 1 part.\nMix.\n12. Sachet for Perfuming Linen.— Take-\nOrris root 125 parts.\nRosa centif olia 125 parts.\nNutmegs 8 parts.\nGrain musk (Hibiscus abel-\nmoschus) 15 parts.\nPowder coarsely and mix.\n13. Sachet a la Marechale.— Take-\nSandal wood 280 parts.\nOrris root .280 parts.\nRosa centif olia 140 parts.\nCloves 140 parts.\nCassia bark (Laurus cassia) 140 parts.\nMusk 1 part.\nPowder coarsely.\n14. Mousseline Sachet.— Vitivert in powder,\n1 lb.; sandal wood, orris, each, }4 lb.; black cur-\nrant leaves (casse), )4 lb. benzoin in powder,\n34 lb. otto of thyme, 5 drops otto of roses,\nJ^drm.\n15. New Mown Hay. Sachet Powder.\nGround rose leaves, 1)4 lb. ground orange\nflowers. lb.; ground orris root, 1}4 lb.; ground\nbenzoin, 34 lb. ground Tonquin bean, lb.\nground ambrette, lb. oil of verbena, 1]4\ndrm. oil of almonds, 3 drm.\n16. Patchouly Sachet. Patchouly herb,\nground, 16 lb. otto of patchouly, 34 drm.\n17. Portugal Sachet.— Dried orange peel, 1\nlb.; dried lemon peel, y% lb.; dried orris root, )4\nlb.; otto of orange peel, 1 oz.; otto of neroli, 34\ndrm.; otto of lemon grass, 34 drm.\n18. Rose Powder.—\nPulverized rose leaves 1 lb.\nPulverized sandal wood 3^ lb.\nRose oil 2 drm.\n19. Rose Sachet.— Rose leaves, 1 lb.; sandal\nwood, ground, y z lb.; otto of roses, 34 oz.\n20. Patchouli Powder.—\nPulverized patchouli leaves 1 lb.\nPatchouli oil 1 scr.\n21. Verbena Powder.\nDried and pulverized lemon\npeels 1 lb.\nCaraway seeds 34 lb.\nOil of lemon peels 4 drm.\nOil of bergamot 1 oz.\n22. Verveine Sachet.— Lemon peel, dried and\nground, 1 lb.; lemon thyme, 34 lb.; otto of\nlemon grass, 1 drm.; otto of lemon peel, oz.;\notto of bergamot, 1 oz.\n23. Violet Powder.— The London Chemist and\nDruggist gives this recipe Powdered starch or\npotato farina, 28 lb.; orris powder, 1 lb. This\nwill require about 1 oz. of perfume, varying\naccording to fancy. A mixture of ambergris\nand bergamot, with a little musk, is a favorite\nodor, and some makers add a few drops of oil\nof rhodium. The powder should be sifted.\n24. Violet Satchet.— Black currant leaves, 1\nlb.; cassie flower heads, 1 lb.; rose leaves, lib.;\norris root powder, 2 lb.; otto of almonds, 34\ndrm.; grain musk, 1 drm.; gum benzoin in\npowder, V£ lb. Mix the ingredients well by\nsifting. Let them stand for a week in a glass\njar before using.\n25. Violet Powder, Perfume for.—\nBergamot oil 20 parts.\nLemon oil 20 parts,\nClove oil 10 parts.\nNeroli 10 parts;\nUse equal parts of powdered orris root and\nstarch, and add 1 drm. of this to each pound of\npowder.— Druggists Circular.\nSeidlitz Powders. Pulveres Eff ervescentes\nAperientes.— 1. Potassio-tartrate of soda (Ro-\nchelle salts), 2 drm.; bicarbonate of soda, 40\ngrn.; mix, and put in a blue paper. Tartaric\nacid, 35 grn., to be put in a white paper. For\nabout }4 pt- of water. Laxative.\n2. In one bottle. Potassio-tartrate of soda, 12\noz.; bicarbonate of soda, 4 oz.; tartaric acid,\n33^ oz.; white sugar, 1 lb. (all in fine powder);\ndry separately by a gentle heat, add essence\nof lemon, drm.; mix well, pass the mixture\nthrough a sieve, and put it at once in clean,\ndry bottles. A dessertspoonful or more to a\ntumblerful of water.\n3. Cut blue and white paper to form powders.\nInto the blue papers put 1 drm. bicarbonate\nof soda and 2 drm. Rochelle salts intimately\nmixed. The white powder contains }4 drm.\ntartaric acid. For use, dissolve a white pow-\nder each in half a tumbler of water. Mix and\ndrink Avhile it effervesces.\nSoap Powder. See Soaps.\nStamping Powder.— Powdered talc is good\nfor marking cloth. For blue marks on white\ngoods use ultramarine blue.\nTooth Powder. See the Teeth..\nWashing Powder (Toilet); Alkalized Cosmetic\nPowder.— Sevei al preparations used in fashion-\nable life by ladies instead of soap. The follow-\ning are intended chiefly to soften the water\nused in making one s toilet, and thus to pro-\nmote its cleansing action, as well as the free\nlathering of the soap\n1. The best Scotch soda broken up small and\nexposed (spread out) in a warm dry situation\nuntil it effloresces and falls into the state of a","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0481.jp2"},"478":{"fulltext":"Precipitation.\n466\nPreserving.\nfine white powder. Half a teaspoonful or\nthereabout to be added to y or of an or-\ndinary wash basinful of water.\n2. (Dutch Washing Powder.) Powdered\nborax. A good pinch as above.\n3. Carbonate of soda (or effloresced\nScotch soda) M lb.\nBorax (in fine powder) 34 lb.\nMix. t Used as No. 2. The above are per-\nfectly harmless to the skin and promote its\nhealth and clearness. The last two, when daily\nused, also tend to render it soft and white and\nto prevent roughness, chaps, etc.\nWelding Powder. See Welding;.\nPrecipitation.— A process in which an\nagent, usually in a fluid condition, being added\nto a compound or a menstruum, a new com-\npound is separated and thrown to the bottom\nof the vessel in the form of a fine powder. The\nfluid added to produce the precipitation is\ncalled a precipitant. This should be added\ngradually, stirring the mixture continually\nwith a glass rod, until the precipitation ceases.\nThe liquid should then be allowed to settle\nuntil clear. In order to ascertain whether\nthere is any matter left in the liquid unpre-\ncipitated, let one drop of the precipitant fall\ninto the mixture; if any signs of precipitation\nensue, more must be added; if the mixture re-\nmains unchanged and clear, the operation is\ncomplete. The liquid may then be carefully\ndecanted and the precipitate filtered, washed\nand dried.\nPrecipitate.— Any substance which has\nseparated from its solution in a solid and\nusually a pulverulent or flocculent form. This\nsubstance is called a precipitate. This is of\ngreat importance in chemistry, as chemical\nanalyses depend on the formation of precipi-\ntates almost entirely in the determination of\nsubstances.\nPreserving. See also Eggs, Furs and\nSkins, Meat, Wood, Salicylic Acid.\nPreserving Media. See Microscopy, etc.;\nalso Antiseptics.\nBeer. Acid sulphite of lime is recommended\nto be added to beer which has to be kept for a\nlength of time in warm places, or to undergo\ntransmarine exportation; 1 gal. of the aqueous\nsolution (commercial) is added to 1,000 gal.\nbeer.\nFruit, Grain and Vegetables.— Fov the preser-\nvation of grain no further precautions are\nnecessary beyond gathering it when ripe and\nkeeping it dry.\nCanning Fruit.— The Pomona Times publishes\nthe following detailed statement:\nA word or two as to the philosophy or science\nof canning will not be amiss, for it is founded\non scientific principles, and there may be*many\nmodifications in the methods of securing the\nresults desired, so that methods may, in many\ninstances, be modified by circumstances.\nThere may be said to be two causes for the\nfermentation and decay of fresh fruit. Every-\nwhere in the atmosphere there are little float-\ning germs which attach themselves to cut fruit,\ncausing fermentation. The oxygen of the air\nis also ready to enter into combination and\nproduce decay. The first of these causes the\nstrongest influences in starting the processes\nof decay.\nCanning checks the process from the fact that\na boiling heat kills all the germs of ferment;\nand, by closely sealing, no more can enter, nor\ncan the oxygen of the air gain access to the\nfruit to act upon it.\nIt has been found that the germs will not go\nthrough a sheet of cotton batting, and fruit\nhas been preserved by closing it pretty tight,\nto prevent evaporation, and wrapping the\njoint loosely with cotton.\nFruits are in a proper condition to can when\nthey are fully ripe, but not soft and mushy.\nThey can be canned at any time before they are\ntoo ripe, but at the expense of a fine appear-\nance. Many of our canneries sacrifice quality\nin taste and flavor to quality in appearance.\nThe home canner will seek the best flavor and\nmake the fruit look as well as he can.\nGlass is of course best, but tin cans will keep\nfruit just as well, with a slight danger of the\nacid of the fruit dissolving a portion of the\ntin.\nIf no regard is had for fine appearance, the\neasiest way to can is to cook the fruit in a por-\ncelain or graniteware kettle, in small quanti-\nties, two to five cans at a time, and when\ncooked pour into cans and seal at once.\nIf the finest appearance is desired, all fruit\nthat is peeled or cut should be at once dropped\ninto water to keep it from discoloring. By the\naid of a silver spoon or knife the pieces can be\narranged in the can systematically and regu-\nlarly, and the can should then be shaken down\nas solid as possible by gently jolting on the\ntable. It should be filled with sirup. We leave\nthe amount of sugar in this sirup to the taste\nof each man. We prefer for most fruits a good\nstrong sirup, but all do not. The filled cans\nshould now be placed in a boiler with water\nenough to come up nearly to the neck and\ncovers put loosely on, and the whole brought\nto boil and kept long enough to cook thorough-\nly. The time varies. The following table is\nsaid to be a good guide\nTime Sugar\nFruit. for to qt. of\nboiling. fruit.\nCherries 5 min. 6 oz.\nRaspberries 6 min. 4 oz.\nBlackberries 6 min. 4 oz.\nStrawberries 8 min. 8 oz.\nPlums 10 min. 10 oz.\nWhortleberries 5 min. 8 oz.\nPieplant 10 min. 8 oz.\nSour pears (whole) 30 min. 4 oz.\nBartlett pears halves) 20 min. 6 oz.\nPeache9 (halves) 8 min. 4 oz.\nPeaches (whole) 15 min. 4 oz.\nPineapples (sliced) 15 min. 6 oz.\nCrab apples 25 min. 8 oz.\nSour apples 10 min. 5 oz.\nRipe currants 6 min. 8 oz.\nGooseberries 8 min. 8 oz.\nWild grapes. 10 min. 8 oz.\nQuinces (sliced) 15 min. 1 oz.\nTomatoes 20 min. j^ tea-\nspoonful\nof salt.\nThe fruit will shrink considerably in cook-\ning, and a few pieces should be cooked in a\nseparate dish to fill up with if there is a chance.\nIf this extra dish is cooked with a little more\nsugar than the rest, it is a good idea. As soon\nas the cans are cooked enongh, remove them\nfrom the water, take off the covers and fill the\ncans as full as possible, the top with boiling hot\nsirup; wipe the top and neck clean, put on the\nrubbers, and screw down the tops as tight as\npossible. Watch the rubbers carefully to see\nthat the tops fit them well.\nIt is sometimes necessary to test the zinc\ncovers of the Mason jar, by placing them on a\nsmooth, flat surface, and if the edge does not\ncome down close all the way round, it can be\npressed down by rubbing it with a smooth\niron.\nSet the fruit away where you can watch it\nfor a week, and if you discover no fermenta-\ntion, it can be put in a dark place to keep.\nMove it as little as possible after this. If you\nhave any doubts about any can being perfectly\nsealed, you can wrap the top in cotton and it\nwill be apt to keep as well as any. Apricots,\npeaches, nectarines, and pears should be as ripe\nas possible and still keep their shape.\nIf you fill cans with hot cooked fruit, they\nwill not break if you stand them on a wet\nfolded cloth while filling.\nJellies are delicious, and can be made of most\nkinds of fruit. Currants are very nice, and a","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0482.jp2"},"479":{"fulltext":"Preserving.\n467\nPreserving.\nfew raspberries with them give the whole a\nraspberry flavor. Blackberries, apricots, plums,\napples, quinces, and grapes before they are\nfully ripe make excellent jelly. Some small egg\nplums and some Verdel grapes gave us some\nfine jelly, very light in color, and tart. Cook\nthe fruit in a little water, and the juice which\nwill drain out without pressure is nicest. By\nstraining twice through a flannel bag, the juice\nthat comes from pressure is made about as clear\nand nice as any.\nQuinces may be pressed gently for a portion\nof their juice, and the pulp mashed and rubbed\nthrough a sieve or one of those crushers made\non purpose, and with the addition of sugar\nmade into a nice marmalade. Jellies will be\nlighter colored to boil the juice alone before\nadding the sugar. You will need about equal\nbulks of juice and dry sugar to make good\njelly glasses. The best cover we have ever\nfound is melted paraffine. The glasses should\nbe allowed to be open, or lightly covered for a\nday or two to shrink then pour the melted\nparaffine on top and let it cool. The hot par-\naffine kills all germs of mould or ferment and\nkeeps it air tight. The name of the jelly may\nbe written on the smooth surface of the par-\naffine when cold. It will come off as neatly as\na glass cover. If you do not use paraffine,\ncover the top with a wax paper neatly cut to\ncircular form the exact size of the glass and\npressed down to the jelly. Then put on the\nregular cover.\nCrystallized Fruit.— This can be made at home\nvery nicely. Select nice, firm fruit. Cook it a\nlittle in clear water, the amount of cooking you\nwill soon learn. Place the cooked fruit into\nvery thick, hot sirup, and let it stand for about\ntwo days then drain off the sirup, which will\nnow be very thin, and boil it down until it is\nthick again, put in the fruit and let it heat\nthrough and stand for about four days, then\nrepeat the process, letting it stand longer\nevery time. When the sirup no longer gets\nthin, remove the fruit and dry it in the sun or\nin an evaporator with gentle heat. It may be\nrolled in granulated sugar to fully dry it, and\nthen may be packed in boxes for use. By using\nthe first sirup for jelly, and making up some\nentirely new, the process can be hastened and\nthe fruit will dry better, but will not be of\nquite so good a flavor. Try it.\nFruit Juices.— Formic acid is said to possess\npowerful preservative properties, exceeding,\nwhen added to acid solutions, even carbolic\nacid, and to be particularly suitable for adding\nto fruit juices; about J4 to y%% is the quantity\nrequisite to preserve fruit juices, vinegar, glue,\nink, etc.\nCooking.— The preservation of vegetables by\ncooking them in sealed cases is dependent\nupon the destruction of all organic germs by\nthe heat of the boiling and the perfect exclusion\nof air. An example of the simplest form is the\ncanning of tomatoes. The fruits are scalded\nto loosen the skin, and then dipped in sieves\ninto water, heated by the injection of steam,\nfor one-half minute. They are then skinned,\nand picked over, and passed into the steamer.\nThence they fall into the hopper, and are fed\nby the stuffer, a cylinder worked by a treadle,\ninto the cans. The filling of these is adjusted\nby boys, and they are sealed up. The cans are\nthen boiled for two hours, then partially cooled,\nthe air is let out by a pin hole, and they are\nimmediately soldered up, and the cooling is\ncompleted.\nMany other vegetables are canned in a simi-\nlar manner. Those which have a green color\nlose it during the operation, by the destruction\nof the chlorophyl. The same remark applies to\nthose dried by heat, ihe green color may be\nreplaced by adding a solution of chlorophyl.\nDesiccation.— The simplest form of desicca-\ntion is by ordinary sun and wind drying, as\nconducted in hay making. The next step is by\nradiated sun heat, as in coffee drying; a further\nadvance is made by the application of artificial\nheat, as in hop drying and tea drying. The\nprimary object in all these cases is the removal\nof the water mechanically present, and with-\nout whose presence fungoid growths and de-\ncay cannot exist. As a curative agent simply,\nthe application of heat is, however, unneces-\nsary and injurious, causing a partial destruc-\ntion of the flavor, and more or less fermentative\nchange. Research has proved that between\nthe limits of 32° and 60° F. (0° and 15° C.) vege-\ntable substances retain their flavor and all\nother qualities, while giving up their moisture,,\nno fermentative action being engendered,\nThig has led to the adoption of the following:\nCold Blast System.— The fruit or vegetables\nare deprived of moisture by subjection to dried\nair at a low temperature. The air is compressed\nin a chamber containing chloride of calcium or\nany other compound possessing strong dehy-\ndrating qualities. Chloride of calcium is in\npractice probably the best, as it so readily\ngives up the absorbed water on being heated.\nThe compressed and dried air is then admitted\ninto a chamber containing the substances to be\ntreated. The expansion lowers its temperature\nsomewhat, which should be maintained between\n32° and 60° F. (0° and 15° C). The substances\nare distributed throughout this chamber on\nperforated trays, so as to be fully exposed to\nthe current of cold dry air passing through.\nAll the moisture is thus removed, without the\nleast detriment to the flavor, color, and other\nvirtues of the substance acted upon. The pro-\ncess has a great advantage over hot drying,\nboth in the cost entailed and the result\nachieved. Fruit and vegetables thus prepared,\nand packed with ordinary care, remain good\nfor an indefinite period, and resume their natu-\nral shape and dimensions when placed in water.\nMasson and Gannal s Process.— Vegetables\nare submitted for a few minutes to steam at\n70 lb. a sq. in., then dried by air at 212° F. (100°\nC), subjected to hydraulic pressure so as to\nform tablets, and, when required for use, are\nsoaked in cold water for five hours.\nHot Air Process. 1. Great quantities of veg-\netables continue to be prepared by this pro-\ncess, which has been in use for some time by\nWhitehead and other well known firms. A\ncommon method of conducting the operation\nis as follows: The fruit or vegetable is pared\nand cored, if necessary, and chen finely shred-\nded. The shreds are spread on galvanized iron\nwire screens in the evaporator, a three storied\nchamber, through which passes a current of air\nheated to 240° F. (116° C). The screens resc on\nendless chains, that move upward at intervals\nof three to five minutes, when a fresh screen is\nput on below, and a finished one is taken off at\nthe top. The evaporation is very rapid. The\ncores and peelings of apples, etc., are made into\nvinegar.\n2. Another plan is by means of a vacuum\npan, heated to 120° to 170° F. (49° to 77° C). The\nair is dried by passage over chloride of calcium.\nThe operation occupies twenty minutes.\nCarsten s Process for Potatoes.— The pota-\ntoes are peeled and cut into disks, and are\nscalded by immersion in nearly boiling water.\nThey are then dried hard in an oven. To pre-\nserve the white color, they are treated with\nwater acidulated with 1% of sulphuric acid.\nThey are then washed in cold water, and\ndried.\nSacc s Process.— Sacc s process for preserving\nvegetables is as follows: The vegetables are\nwarmed to destroy their rigidity, and are then\npacked in barrels, and surrounded with one-\nfourth their weigh of acetate of soda in pow-\nder, by which their moisture is obsorbed. In\nsummer the action is immediate; but in winter\nit may be necessary to put the barrels into a\nroom heated to 68° F. (20° C). After twenty-\nfour hours, the vegetables are removed, and\nkept in a dry atmosphere. For use, they are\nsoaked in cold water for twelve hours.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0483.jp2"},"480":{"fulltext":"Preserving.\n468\nProofs.\nFurs and Skins, to Preserve. See Furs and\nSkins as well as the following.— l.The folio wing-\nis Dr. Lettsom s recipe for a mixture found to\nanswer both for animals in cases and skins, in\nthe open air. For birds it is equally good and\neffective Corrosive sublimate, J4 lb.; saltpeter,\nprepared or burnt, }4 lb-; alum, burnt, 34 lb.;\nflowers of sulphur, y lb.; camphor, J4 lb.;\nblack pepper, 1 lb.; tobacco, ground coarse, 1\nlb. Keep in glass stoppered bottle. Give two\nor three good rubbings with it.\n2. Swan Skin.— Six oz. arsenic, 3 oz. corrosive\nsublimate, 2 oz. yellow soap, 1 oz. camphor and\n14 Pt. 90$ alcohol. Put all these ingredients in\na saucepan, which place over a slow fire, stir-\nring the mixture briskly till the several parts\nare dissolved and form one homogeneous mass.\nThis may be poured into a wide mouthed bot-\ntle, and allowed to stand till quite cold, when it\nwill be ready for use. Of course these quanti-\nties may be increased or decreased, according\nto the size of the animal or bird to be operated\non. If the soap and arsenic are left out, it will\nanswer better, as they leave it greasy. To be\nput on with a sponge fastened on the end\nof a stick. Use very cautiously; mark poison.\nIndia Rubber. To prevent India rubber ma-\nterials from hardening and cracking they are\nsteeped in a bath of melted parafflne for a few\nseconds, or several minutes, in accordance\nwith the size of the articles, and hen dried in a\nroom heated to about 212° F. (100° C).\nHempel, in the Ber. Chem. Ges., says that the\nhardening of vulcanized India rubber is caused\nby the gradual evaporation of the solvent\nliquids contained in the India rubber, and intro-\nduced during the process of vulcanization.\nGuided by this notion, he has made experiments\nfor a number of years in order to find a method\nfor preserving the Ind a rubber. He now finds\nthat keeping in an atmosphere saturated with\nthe vapors of the solvents answers the purpose\nIndia rubber stoppers, tubing, etc., which still\npossess their elasticity, are to be kept in ves-\nsels containind a dish filled with common petro\nleum. Keeping in wooden boxes is objection-\nable, while keeping in airtight glass vessels\nalone is sufficient to preserve India rubber for a\nlong time. Exposure to light should be avoided\nas much as possible. Old hard India rubber\nmay be softened again by letting the vapor of\ncarbon bisulphide act upon it. As soon as it\nhas become soft it must be removed from the\ncarbon bisulphide atmosphere and kept in the\nabove way. Hard stoppers are easily made fit\nfor use again in this manner, but the elastic\nproperties of tubing cannot well be restored.\nLeather. There is nothing as good as castor\noil for preserving leather. Applied once a\nmonth, or once or twice a week in snowy\nweather, it not only keeps the leather soft, but\nmakes it waterproof. Copal varnish is the\nbest thing to apply to the soles; but the latter\nshould be thoroughly dry, and if they have\nbeen worn, they should be previously roughed\non the surface before applying the varnish.\nLinseed oil is perhaps better than nothing, but\nit rots the leather; hence the objection to dub-\nbings and other mix-ups of muttensuet, linseed\noil, etc. With regard to castor oil, it may fur-\nther be said that it does not prevent a polish\nbeing produced on the boots; and that leather\nso treated is avoided by rats, if even its pro-\nportion be only one third to two thirds tallow.\nMilk. 1. A mixture of 2 drm. boracic acid with\n3 drm. common salt, of which an addition of\ndrm. to 1 gal. of milk is said to increase its\nkeeping qualities for twenty-four hours.\n2. When milk contained in wire corked bot-\ntles is heated to the boiling point in a water\nbath, the oxygen of the included small portion\nof air under the cork seems to be carbonated,\nand the milk will, it is said, keep fresh for a\nyear or two.\n3. Glacialine.— According to Dr. Besana, this\nsubstance, which has met with so much favor\nin England and elsewhere as an antiseptic, es-\npecially for the preservation of milk, has the\nfollowing composition Boracic acid, 18 parts\nborax, 9 parts; sugar, 9 parts; glycerine, 6 parts.\n4. Morfit s Process.— In 1 gal. milk at 130° to\n140° F. (55° to 60° C.).is dissolved 1 lb. gelatine;\nthe mixture is left to cool to a jelly, when it is\ncut into slices and dried. The compound is\nused to gelatinize more milk, and this is rep sat-\ned till the gelatine is in the proportion of 1 lb.\nto 10 gal. of milk.\nPrince s Metal. See Alloys.\nPeruvian Beer. See Beers.\nPrinters Rollers.— 1. Take an equal quan-\ntity of good glue and concentrated glycerine\nsoften the former by soaking in cold water,\nthen melt it over the water bath, gradually ad-\nding the glycerine. Continue the heat until the\nexcess of water has been driven off, meantime\nconstantly stirring. Cast in brass or bronze\nmoulds well oiled.\n2. To 8 lb. transparent glue add enough\nwater to cover it; let it stand with occasional\nstirring seven or eight hours. After twenty-\nfour hours, all the water should be absorbed.\nHeat it in a water bath, as glue is always heated\nas soon as melted, and when both rise, remove\nfrom fire, and add 7 lb. molasses that has been\nmade quite hot. Heat with frequent stirring\nfor half an hour. The moulds should be clean\nand greased. Pour into moulds after it has\ncooled a little, and allow to stand eight or ten\nhours in winter, longer in summer. Some use\nfar more molasses, three to four times above\nquantity, and less water. In this case, after\nsoaking one to one and half hours, the glue is\nleft on a board overnight, and then melted\nwith addition of no more water, and three or\nfour times its weight of molasses added. Two\nhours cooking is recommended in this case.\n3. Resin soap and small quantities of oil and\nearthy matters are occasionally introduced.\nThe heating must be continued until the great-\ner part of the water has been expelled, when\nthe composition is ready for casting in copper\nmoulds, oiled and warmed.\n4. Best glue 10^ lb.\nBlack molasses or honey 2J£ gal.\nIndia rubber, dissolved in oil of\nturpentine 1 lb.\nVenice turpentine 2 oz.\nGlycerine 12 oz.\nVinegar 4 oz.\nThe above formula is given for the mysteri-\nous black composition, so durable and elastic,\nand known but to very few persons until re-\ncently. Purified India rubber only is used. To\nrecast add 20 per cent, new material. The old\nhome receipt is, 2 lb. best glue, soaked over-\nnight, to 1 gal. of New Orleans molasses. Will\nnot recast.\nPrinters, Varnisli for. See Var-\nnishes.\nPrinting Inks. See Inks.\nPrinting, Photographic. See Photo-\ngraphy.\nPrints. (Ackerman s Liquor.) Use 4 oz.\neach of the finest pale glue and white curd soap;\nboiling water, 3 pt., 12 fl. oz.; dissolve, then add\nof powdered alum, 2 oz. Used to size prints\nand pictures before coloring them.\nPrints, to Transfer. See Transfer-\nring.\nPrisms, Cement for. See Cements.\nProofs, Correction of.— Synopsis of Read-\ner s Marks\nThis indicates that the line has to be in-\ndented one em of its own body.\nA full stop or full point has to be inserted.\nTrs. A transposi ion of a word or words.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0484.jp2"},"481":{"fulltext":"Proofs.\n469\nItal.\nChange Roman into italic. Also indi-\ncated by underlining the word or words\nto he in italic.\nc. A capital or small capital to be changed to\na lower case letter.\nRom. Change italic into Roman.\nCap. Alowercaseor small capital letter to be\nchanged to a capital.\nSm. Cap. A lower case or capital letter to be\nchanged to a small capital.\nX A bad or battered letter.\nV\nProofs.\nDelete or expunge.\nj_ A space or quadrat standing high to be\npushed down.\nw. f Denotes a wrong font letter.\nEqual. Equalize spacing throughout the line.\ns The matter has something foreign between\nthe lines, or a wrong font space in the\nline, causing the types to get crooked,\nQ /J^o not try to correct the faults of hurriecT making-read y/by\na weak impression, and by carrying an excess of ink to fhide\nkthe weakness/ Excess of ink fouls the rollers, clogs the\n~cu\ntype, and makes the printed work smear or set off. A good\nprint cannot be had w hen the impression is so weak that the\npaper (iouchesJ bareIylthe ink on the types and is not pressed\nagainst the types. There must be force enough to transfer\nthe ink not only on to the paper^but into the paper. A firm\nsJ^ c/ impression th$mHl be had, even if the paper be indented.\nThe amount of impression require\n5\nA\nT/\nyusf/oA/i\nimpression required will largely depend on\nthe making-ready. MJth carefujjmaking- ready, ^repression\nmay be light; roughly and hurriedly done, it must be hard/\nindentation is evidence of wear of type. The spring and\n#7 resulting friction of an elastic impression surface is most felt\nwhere there is least resistance at the upper and lower ends\nof lines of /ype, where they begin to round off. It follows\nthat the laving of time that may be gained by hurried and\nrough m ak ing-ready must be offset by an increased wear of\ntype. (That impression is J}est for preventing wear of type\nwhich,is confined to its surface and never Taps over ovfiie its\nedges. But this perfect surface impression is possible onJy\non a large forme with new type, sound, m packing, and\n•J H +-S ample time for /makingjtaady.^ If types are worn, the in-\nf dentation of the paperby impression cannot be entirely\nprevented^ ^rood presswork does not depend entirely upon\n.j the/ pressor machine, neither on the work man, nor on the\nTT* materials. Nor will superiority in any «*^point compensate\nfor deficiency in another new type will suffer from a poor\nL/ /roller, and careful making-reaj/y is thrown away if poor ink\nJ m be used/ It is necessary that all the m ateria ls shall be\n6y good, that t/fey should be adapted to- each other and fitly\nj used. A good workman can do much with poor materials,\n7tl/ but a neglect to cojjply with one condition ofterTproduces\nas bad a result as the neglect of alP\n$X crt *PZ Cli the loregoing facts are carefully studied mafiy difficul-\ni\n-v\nI\ntics will be overcome in obtaining rcallv^good work.\nStet. Matter, wrongly altered, remains as it\nwas. Dots are usually placed under the\nmatter in question.\nA space has to be inserted.\n»A Space to be reduced.\nA turned letter.\nNew par. or n. p. or Commence a fresh line.\nRun on. Sentence not to commence a new line,\nbut to follow on previous matter.\nWhen a superior letter or inverted comma\nis required to be inserted in the matter\nit is usually written over this sign.\nC The words or letters over which this is\nmarked to be joined.\nPage as corrected.— Do not try to correct the\nfaults of hurried making ready by a weak im-\nEression, and by carrying an excess of ink to\nide the weakness. Excess of ink fouls the\nrollers, clogs the type, and makes the printed\nwork smear or set off. A good print cannot be\nhad when the impression is so weak that the\npaper barely touches the ink on the types and","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0485.jp2"},"482":{"fulltext":"Protein.\n470\nPunch.\nis not pressed against the types. There must\ntoe force enough to transfer the ink not only\non to the paper, but into the paper. A firm\nimpression should be had, even if the paper be\nindented. The amount of impression required\n•will largely depend on the making- ready.\nWith careful making ready, impression may be\nlight; roughly and hurriedly done, it must be\nhard; indentation is evidence of wear of type.\nThe spring and resulting friction of an elastic\nimpression surface is most felt where there is\nleast resistance— at the upper and lower ends\nof lines of type, where they begin to round off.\nIt follows that the saving of time that may be\ngained by hurried and rough making ready\nmust be offset by an increased wear of type.\nThat impression is the best for preventing\nwear of type which is confined to its surface\nand never laps over its edges. But this perfect\nsurface impression is possible only on a large\nform with new type, sound, hard packing, and\nample time for making ready. If types are\nworn, the indentation of the paper by impres-\nsion cannot be entirely prevented; good press-\nwork does not depend entirely upon the press\nor machine, neither on the workman nor on\nthe materials. Nor will superiority in any\npoint compensate for deficiency in another;\nnew type will suffer from a poor roller, and\ncareful making ready is thrown away if poor\nink be used. It is necessary that all the mate-\nrials shall be good, that they should be adapted\nto each other and fitly used. A good workman\ncan do much with poor materials, but a neglect\nto comply with one condition often produces\nas bad a result as the neglect of all. If the fore-\ngoing facts are carefully studied many difficul-\nties will be overcome in obtaining really good\nwork.\nProtein.— Name given to a substance which\nMulder regarded as the original matter from\nwhich animal fibrin, albumen and casein were\nderived, but which is now considered as a pro-\nduct of the decomposition of those important\nprinciples by moderately strong caustic alkali.\nPrussian Blue. See Pigments.\nPulleys, Rules for Calculating the\nSpeed of.— The diameter of the driven being\ngiven, to find its number of revolutions.—\nRule. Multiply the diameter of the driver by\nits number of revolutions, and divide the pro-\nduct by the diameter of the driven the quo-\ntient will be the number of revolutions of the\ndriven.\nEx.— Twenty-four in. diameter of driver X 150,\nnumber of revolutions, =3,600-*-12 in. diameter\nof driven=300.\nThe diameter and revolutions of the driver\nbeing given, to find the diameter of the driven,\nthat shall make any given number of revol u-\ntions in the same time.\nRule.— Multiply the diameter of the driver by\nits number of revolutions, and divide the pro-\nduct by the number of required revolutions of\nthe driven the quotient will be its diameter.\nEx. Diameter of driver (as before) 24 in. x rev-\nolutions 150=3,600. Number of revolutions of\ndriven required=300. Then 3,600-^-300=12 in.\nThe rules following are but changes of the\nsame, and will be readily understood from the\nforegoing examples.\nTo ascertain the size of the driver.—\nRule.— Multiply the diameter of the driven by\nthe number of revolutions you wish to make,\nand divide the product by the required revolu-\ntions of the driver the quotient will be the\nsize of the driver.\nTo ascertain the size of pulleys for given\nspeed.—\nRule.— Multiply all the diameters of the\ndrivers together and all the diameters of the\ndriven together; divide the drivers by the\ndriven; the answer multiply by the known\nrevolutions of main shaft.\nPulleys, to Cover with Paper.—\nScratch the face of the pulley with a rough file\nthoroughly, so that there are no bright or\nsmooth places. Then swab the surface with a\nsolution of nitric acid, 1 part; water, 4 parts;\nfor 15 minutes; then wash with boiling hot\nwater. Having prepared a pot of the best tough\nglue that you can get, stir into the glue a half\nounce of a strong solution tannic acid, oak\nbark, or gallnuts, as convenient to obtain, to a\nquart of thick glue; stir quickly while hot and\napply to the paper or pulley as convenient, and\ndraw the paper as tightly as possible to the\npulley, overlapping as many folds as may be\nrequired. By a little management and moist-\nening of the paper, it will bind very hard on the\npulley when dry, and will not come off or get\nloose until it is worn out. Use strong hard-\nware wrapping paper.\nPulleys, to Lag.— Cast iron pulleys may\nbe lagged with leather without the use of riv-\nets, by first brushing over the surface with\nacetic acid, which will quickly rust it and give\na rough surface then attach the leather to the\nface of the pulley with cement composed of\n1 lb. of fish glue and lb. of common glue.\nPulleys, Wood, to Harden.— 1. Soft\nmaple is often used in the construction of fric-\ntion pulleys. If it is boiled in olive oil, it will\nE rove beneficial in a number of ways. It will\narden the timber and render it less liable to\nsplit, but at the same time the gear wjll slip\nmore after such treatment.\n2. Boil for eight minutes in boiled linseed\noil.\nPulp (Wood), to Harden.— Various sub-\nstances can be used to harden the pulp, such as\nglue, starch and gum arabic, tragacanth, etc.\nThe dry pulp should be mixed with as thin\nmucilage as is possible to make it stick to-\ngether when pressed. White clay or kaolin can\nbe also mixed with the pulp to make it like a\nputty. The moulds should be slightly oiled to\nkeep from sticking.\nPulverization. This is generally per-\nformed with a mortar and pestle, or on a\nlarger scale by stamping, grinding, etc. Some\nsoft substances, as carbonate of magnesia, can\nbe pulverized by simply rubbing through a\nsieve; some require soaking or steaming, others\ndrying or desiccation before they can be pul-\nverized; others require the addition of some\nother substance as an intermedium to aid in\nthe operation. When a substance is required\nto be reduced to an impalpable powder, a slab\nand muller are used; this process is termed\nporphyrization.\nPumice Stone.— A gray porous stone\nfound in the neighborhood of volcanoes. Its\nchief use is in polishing and in removing stains\nfrom the hands.\nPumps.— 1. The ordinary speed to run a\npump is 100 ft. of piston per minute.\n2. Useful numbers for pumps. The square\nof the diameter multiplied by the stroke, mul-\ntiplied by 0 7854, gives capacity of the pump\ncylinder in cubic inches; by 0 002833, in gallons;\nby u-0004545, in cubic feet; by 0*02833, in lb. fresh\nwater.\nPunch.— Punch is a beverage made of vari-\nous spirituous liquors or wine, hot water, the\nacid juice of fruits, and sugar, it is considered to\nbe very intoxicating; but this is probably be-\ncause the spirit being partly sheathed by the\nmucilaginous juice and the sugar, its strength\ndoes not appear to the taste so great as it really\nis. Punch, which was almost universally drunk\namong the middle classes about fifty or sixty\nyears ago, has almost disappeared from our\ndomestic tables, being superseded by wine.\nThere are many different varieties of punch,\nIt is sometimes kept cold in bottles, and makes\na most agreeable summer drink.\n1. Juice of 3 or 4 lemons; yellow peel of 1 or 2\nlemons; lump sugar, lb.; boiling water, 314\npt.; infuse hour, strain, add porter pt.;\nrum and brandy, of each to 1 pt. (or either","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0486.jp2"},"483":{"fulltext":"Punch.\n471\nPutty.\nalone 1)4 to 2 pt.) and add more warm water\nand sugar, if desired weaker or sweeter.\n2. To Make Hot Punch.— Ingredients. pt.\nrum, pt. brandy, J4 lb. sugar, 1 large lemon, Vo,\nteaspoonful of nutmeg, 1 pt. of boiling watei\\\nRub the sugar over the lemon until it has ab-\nsorbed all the yellow part of the skin; then put\nthe sugar into a punchbowl; add the lemon\njuice (free from pips), and mix these two in-\ngredients well together. Pour over them the\nboiling water, stir well together, add the rum,\nbrandy and nutmeg; mix thoroughly and the\npunch will be ready to serve. It is very im-\nportant in making good punch that all the in-\ngredients are thoroughly incorporated; and to\ninsure success, the processes of mixing must be\ndiligently attended to. Allow a quart for 4\npersons; but this information must be taken\ncum grano salis for the capacities of persons\nfor this kind of beverage are generally sup-\nposed to vary considerably.\n3. Cold Punch.— Arrack, port wine, water, of\neach 1 pt.; juice of 4 lemons; sugar, 1 lb.; mix.\nArrack Punch, Imitation. Two or three pre-\nserved tamarinds dissolved in a bowl of any\nkind of punch will impart to it a flavor closely\nresembling arrack.\nBrandy.— 1. To 1 pt. Cognac brandy, \\i pt. of\nJamaica rum, y^ pt. of peach brandy, add 2 lb.\nwhite sugar, 1 gill of lemon and 1 gill of lime\njuice; mix all well together, and add ice equal\nto 2 qt. of water; cut 2 lemons into thin slices,\npeel and slice thin 1 pineapple; add these to the\npunch and let stand to ripen and blend for 1\nhour before using.\n2. To 1 teaspoonful of raspberry sirup add 1\ntablespoonf ul white sugar, 1 wineglass brandy,\nthe same quantity of water, a small piece lemon,\n2 slices of orange, 1 piece of pineapple. Fill the\ntumbler with shaved ice, shake well, and dress\nthe top with berries in season; sip through a\nstraw.\n3. Take 3 doz. lemons, chip off the yellow\nrinds, taking care that none of the white un-\nderlying pith is taken, as that would make the\npunch bitter, whereas the yellow portion of\nthe rinds is that in which the flavor resides and\nin which the cells are placed containing the es-\nsential oil. Put this yellow rind into a punch\nbowl, add to it 2 lb. of lump sugar, stir the\nsugar and peel together with a wooden spoon or\nspatula for nearly Yz hour, thereby extracting\na greater quantity of the essential oil. Now\nadd boiling water, and stir until the sugar is\ncompletely dissolved. Squeeze and strain the\njuice from the lemons and add it to the mix-\nture; stir together and taste it; add more acid\nor more sugar, as required, and take care not\nto render it too watery. Rich of the fruit and\nplenty of sweetness, is the maxim. Now\nmeasure the sherbet, and to every 3 qt. add 1\npt. of Cognac brandy and 1 pt. of old Jamaica\nrum, the spirit being well stirred as poured in.\nThis punch may be bottled and kept in a cool\ncellar; it will be found to improve with age.\nClaret.— 1. To a large punch bowl half filled\nwith broken ice add 2 lb. of pulverized sugar;\noranges cut crosswise into thin slices, 6\nbottles of claret, and 1 bottle of champagne;\nmix well together and let stand for one hour\nbefore using.\n2. Take 1 tablespoonful of sugar, a small\nslice of lemon, 2 or 3 slices of orange. Fill the\ntumbler with shaved ice, and then pour in the\nclaret, shake well, and ornament with berries\nin season. Place a straw in the glass.\n3. Take V/b tablespoons sugar, 1 slice of lemon,\n2 or 3 slices orange. Fill the tumbler with\nshaved ice; pour in the claret; shake well.\nGin Punch.— 1. To half a pint of old Holland\ngin add 1 gill of maraschino, the juice of 2\nlemons, and the yellow rind of 1 previously\ninfused in the gin, 2 gills of simple sirup or 4\noz. of pulverized sugar, and 1 qt. of seltzer\nwater. Mix well and freeze to a semi-solid.\n2. Yellow peel and juice of 1 lemon; gin,\npt.; water, 1% pt.; sherry, 1 glass.\nIced.— Champagne or Rhenish wine, 1 qt.;\narrack, 1 pt.; juice and yellow peels of 61emons;\nwhite sugar, 1 lb.; soda water, 1 or 2 bottles;\nice as cream.\nMilk Punch.— 1. Take 1 tablespoonful sugar; 2\ntablespoonf uls water; 1 wineglass brandy; \\4\nwineglass Santa Cruz rum; tumbler shaved\nice. Fill with milk and shake well; grate a\nlittle nutmeg on top.\n2. Yellow rinds of 2 dozen lemons; steep for\ntwo days in rum or brandy, 2 qt.; then add\nspirit, 3 qt. more; hot water, 3 qt.; lemon juice,\n1 qt.; loaf sugar, 4 lb.; 2 nutmegs, grated;\nboiling milk. 2 qt.; mix, and in two hours strain\nthrough a jelly bag.\nNorfolk.— French brandy, 20 qt.; yellow peels\nof 30 oranges and 30 lemons infuse for twelve\nhours add 30 qt. of cold water, 15 lb. lump\nsugar, and the juice of the oranges and lemons;\nmix well, strain through a hair sieve, add new\nmilk, 2 qt., and in six weeks bottle. Keeps\nwell.\nOrange.— As No. 1, using oranges, and adding\na little orange wine. A little curacoa, noyeau,\nor maraschino improves it.\nPrinces\\— Put into a freezing can a bottle of\nsparkling champagne, a gill of maraschino, \\4\npt. of strawberry sirup, the juice of 6 oranges,\nthe yellow rind of 1 rubbed on sugar.\nRaspberry.— As Norfolk, but using raspberry\njuice or vinegar for oranges or lemons.\nRegent s.— 1. Pare off the thin yellow rinds\nfrom 4 oranges and 4 lemons express the juice\nfrom the same fruit and strain it add to it the\nyellow rinds, with 2 sticks of cinnamon broken\nup, doz. cloves, and a dessertspoonful of\nvanilla sugar. Simmer these ingredients very\nslowly for half an hour in 1 qt. of simple sirup.\nExpress the juice from \\)4 doz. of lemons, and\nadd it to the decoction. Then make a strong\ninfusion of the finest green tea and add it to\nthe mixture; after which add equal portions\nof old Jamaica rum and Cognac brandy, accord-\ning to the strength required. Mix all well to-\ngether, strain through a hair sieve, put it into\na freezer and make very cold.\n2. Strong hot green tea, lemon juice, and\ncapillaire, of each V/z pt.; rum, brandy, arrack,\nand curacoa, of each 1 pt.; champagne, 1 bottle;\nmix, and slice a pineapple into it.\nTea.— Hot tea, 1 qt.; arrack, \\4 bottle; white\nsugar, 6 oz.; juice of 8 lemons yellow rinds of\n4 lemons.\nWine.— Sugar, 1 lb.; yellow peel of 3 lemons\njuice of 9 lemons; arrack, 1 pt.; port or sherry\nwine (hot), 1 gal.; cinnamon, 34 oz.; nutmeg, 1\ndrm.\nWliisky.— To 1 wineglass of whisky add 2\nwineglasses of hot water, and then sugar to\ntaste. Dissolve the sugar well with 1 wine-\nglass of the water, then pour in the whisky,\nand add the balance of the water sweeten to\ntaste, and put in a small piece of lemon rind or\na thin slice of lemon.\nPurge.— Calomel, 15 grn.; jalap, 15 grn.;\nmix in some sirup. Great care should be used\nin taking doses of this.\nPurl.— Prep. To warm ale or beer, add bit-\nters, 1 wineglassful, or q. s. Some add spirit.\nPurple of Cassius. —Syn. Purple precipi-\ntate, cassius do., gold purple, crystallized pro-\ntochloride of tin, 1 part; crystallized perchlo-\nride of tin, 2 parts; dissolve each separately,\nmix, and add it to a solution of crystallized\nterchloride of gold, 1 part; wash and dry the\nprecipitate. Very fine.\nPuzzolana.— A volcanic ash found at Pom-\npeii, Vesuvius, etc. Mixed with lime it forms an\nexcellent hydraulic cement. A good artificial\npuzzolana may be made by heating a mixture\nof 3 bushels of clay and 1 bushel of slaked lime,\nfor some hours, to redness.— M. Bruyere.\nPutty. See Cements.\nPutty, Jewelers 1. Tin putty, an oxide\nof tin made by levigating the crusts of oxide","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0487.jp2"},"484":{"fulltext":"Putty.\n472\nPyrotechny.\nthat form upon the metal when kept for some\ntime in fusion. It is used for polishing-.\n2. Melt tin, 1 oz. with an equal weight, or 1%\noz. of lead, and then raise the heat so as to ren-\nder the mixed metal red hot, when the tin will\nbe immediately flung out in the state of putty.\nBoth are very hard, used for polishing glass\nand japan work, and to color opaque white\nenamel.\nPutty, to Soften and Remove. See\nCleansing.\nPutty Powder.- Tin peroxide, used for\npolishing. See Jewelers Putty above.\nPutz Powder. See Polishing.\nPyro Developer. See Photography.\nPyrophorus.— Term given to substances\nwhich inflame instantly when exposed to the\nair. The following are some of the compo-\nsitions\n1. Lampblack, 3 parts; burnt alum, 4 parts;\npotassium carbonate, 8 parts. Then place in a\nladle and heat until dry. Then place in a test\ntube and heat until the flame ceases to be ad-\nmitted. Then place a stopper in the test tube\nand cool.\n2. Potassium sulphate, 9 parts lampblack\ncalcined, 5 parts. Proceed as before.\nPyrotechny. Asteroid Rocket. Compo-\nsition for 1 lb.: Niter, 8 oz.; fine charcoal, 3%\noz.; No. 2 charcoal, oz.; sulphur, 2 oz.; meal\npowder, V/% oz.\nBursting Powder.\n1\n2\n3\nMeal powder\n1\n1\n1\n8\nGrain powder F\n1\nChlorate Meal Powder.\nNumber\nChlorate of potash\nCharcoal, fine\nSulphur\n1\n2\n25\n15\n5\n3\n3\n2\n60\n9\nTo Represent Cordage in Fireworks.— Anti-\nmony, 1 part; juniper resin, 1 part; niter, 2\nparts; sulphur, 16 parts. Mix and soak soft\nropes with the composition.\nCommon and Sparkling Fires.— 1. Meal pow-\nder, 4 parts; charcoal, 1 part.\n2. Meal powder, 16 parts; niter, 8 parts; sul-\nphur^ 4 parts; charcoal, 4 parts.\n3. Meal powder, 16 parts; very fine glass dust,\n5 parts.\n4. Meal powder, 8 parts; very finely powdered\nporcelain, 3 parts. These fires can be arranged\nvery effectively as stars, suns, etc. For in-\nstance, provide a circular disk of hard wood,\n6 in. in diameter and 1 in. thick. Nail to this\n5 spokes of wood at equal distances from one\nanother, and 15 in. long. Nail also to the back\nof the central disk a strip of wood about 2 feet\nlong, 2 inches wide, and inch thick. By\nmeans of this you can screw the whole piece con-\nveniently to your firing post. On each of the 5\nspokes tie a case of brilliant fire, supported at\nits end, and connect the mouths of these with\nquick match.\nRed Chinese Fire.— I. Meal powder, 16 parts;\nniter, 16 parts; sulphur, 4 parts; charcoal 4\nparts; iron borings, 14 parts.\n2. Meal powder, 16 parts; sulphur, 3 parts;\ncharcoal, 3 parts: iron borings, 7 parts.\n3. Meal powder, 8 parts; niter, 16 parts; sul-\nphur, 3 parts; charcoal; 3 parts; iron borings,\n8 parts.\n4. Meal powder, 16 parts; niter, 8 parts; sul-\nphur, 4 parts; charcoal, 3 parts; Iron borings,\n7 parts.\nOn Preparing Some Colored Fires (Bengal\nLights) Used in Pyrotechny.— By Sergius Kern\n(St. Petersburg). In preparing colored\nfires for fireworks by means of the usual\nformulae given in many manuals of pyrotechny,\nit is often very necessary to know the quick-\nness of burning of colored fires, as in some\ncases, as decorations and lances, they must\nburn slowly; in other cases, as wheels, stars for\nrockets, and Roman candles, they must burn\nquicker. Working for some months with many\ncompositions of such kind, I prepared three\ntables of colored fires (red, green and violet),\nwhere every formula with a higher num-\nber burns quicker than a fire with a lower\nnumber. For instance. No. 5 burns quicker\nthan No. 6 and slower than No. 4. These tables\nwill, I think, be of much assistance in the pre-\nparation of fireworks.\nGreen Colored Fires.—\nPotassium Barium\nNo. Chlorate. Nitrate.\nPer cent. Per cent.\n1....\n....36\n2\n...29\n3....\n24\n4....\n.21\n5....\n....18\n6....\n....16\n7\n....14\n8\n...13\n9.\n....12\n10\n....11\n11...\n....10\n12....\n9\n9\n14....\n8\n15....\n8\n40\n48\n53\n57\n60\n62\n64\n66\n67\n68\n69\n69-5\n70\n70-5\n71\nSulphur.\nPer cent.\n24\n23\n23\n22\n22\n22\n22\n21\n21\n21\n21\n21\n21\n21\n21\nRed Colored Fires.—\nPotassium Strontium\nNo. Chlorate. Nitrate.\nPer cent Per cent.\nCarbon\nSulphur Powder.\nPer cent. Per cent.\n9\n10...,\n11...\n12...,\n13\n14.\n15...,\n40\n.32\n.27\n.23\n,20\n.18\n.16\n.15\n.13\n.12\n.11\n.10\n.10\n9\n9\n25\n39\n46\n51\n55\n58\n60\n61 6\n63\n64\n65\n66\n67\n67 25\n68\n68-35\n18\n19\n20\n20\n20-\n21\n21\n21\n22\n22\n22\n22\n22\n22\n22\n•5\n075\n075\n065\nViolet Colored Fires.—\nPotassium Calcium\nNo. Chlorate. Carbonate.\nPer cent.\n1 52\n2..\n3.,\n4.,\n5.\n6.\n7.,\n8.,\n9.\n10\n11\n12\n13..\n14.,\n15.,\n.52\n.52\n.52\n.52\n.52\n.51\n.51\n.51\n.51\n.51\n.51\n.51\n.51\n.51\nPer cent.\n29\n28\n26\n24\n23\n21\n20\n18\n16\n15\n13\n11\n10\n8\n6\nMalachite\npowdered. Sulphur.\nPer cent Per cent.\n4\n5\n7\n9\n10\n13\n14\n16\n18\n19\n21\n23\n24\n26\n28\n15\n15\n15\n15\n15\n15\n15\n15\n15\n15\n15\n15\n15\n15\n15\n—Chemical News.\nColored Fires for Theaters.— We give below\na table of the composition of the mixtures\ncommonly employed for colored fires in tab-\nleaux, etc. These fires, however, should never\nbe used within doors, as the gaseous products\nof some of them are extremely poisonous. The\nlime light lanterns and lenses of suitably col-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0488.jp2"},"485":{"fulltext":"Pyrotechny.\n473\nPyrotecliny.\nored glass have now been generally substituted\nfor these fires, and give much better results.\n1\n2\n3\n4\n5\nGreen\nRed\nYellow\nBlue\nWhite\nChlorate of\npotash\n32- 7\n29 7\n545\n§•8\n17-2\n23 6\n20\nCharcoal\n52\n1-7\n3-8\n18-1\nNitrate of ba-\nryta\n52-3\nNitrate of\nstrontia\n457\nNitrate of so-\nda\n9 8\nAmmonium\nsulphate of\n27-4\n62-8\n60\nBlack sul-\nphide of an-\n57\n5\nFloury gun-\npowder\n15\nIt is hardly necessary to mention that great\ncare is required in mixing these materials, and\nthat each should be pulverized separately.\nFires or Lights, Colored.— These fires serve to\nilluminate; hence intensity of light with as\nlittle smoke as possible is aimed at. In the pre-\nparation of such mixtures the ingredients,\nwhich should be perfectly dry, must be re-\nduced separately, by grinding in mortar\nor otherwise to very fine powders, and then\nthoroughly but carefully mixed together on\nsbeetaof paper with the hands or by means of\ncardboard or horn spatulas. The mixtures are\nbest packed in capsules or tubes about 1 in. in\ndiameter and from 6 to 12 in. long, made of stiff\nwriting paper. Greater regularity in burning\nia secured by moistening the mixtures with a\nlittle whisky and packing them firmly down\nin the cases by means of a wooden cylinder,\nthen drying. To facilitate ignition a small\nquantity of a powder composed of mealed pow-\nder, 16 parts; niter, 2 parts; sulphur, 1 part, and\ncharcoal, 1 part, loosely twisted in thin paper,\nis inserted in the top. The tubes are best tied\nto sticks fastened in the ground.\nWhite Lights.—\nSaltpeter 4\nSulphur 1\nBlack sulphide of antimony 1\nYellow Lights.—\n1. Chlorate of potash 4\nSulphide of antimony 2\nSulphur 2\nOxalate of soda 1\n2. Saltpeter 140 oz.\nSulphur.. 45 oz.\nOxalate of soda 30 oz.\nLampblack 1 oz.\nGreen Lights.—\n1. Chlorate of baryta 2 oz.\nNitrate of baryta 3 oz.\nSulphur 1 oz.\n2. Chlorate of potash 20 oz.\nNitrate of baryta 21 oz.\nSulphur 11 oz.\nRed Lights.—\nNitrate of strontia 25 oz.\nChlorate of potash. 15 oz.\nSulphur 13 oz.\nBlack sulphide of antimony. 4 oz.\nMastic 1 oz.\nPink Lights.—\nChlorate of potash 12 oz.\nSaltpeter 5 oz.\nMilk sugar 4 oz.\nLycopodium 1 oz.\nOxalate of strontia 1 oz.\noz.\noz.\noz.\noz.\noz.\noz.\noz.\nBlue Lights.—\nChlorate of potash 3 oz.\nSulphur ..1 oz.\nAmmonio-sulphate of copper. 1 oz.\nFor colored fires, where the mixtures are\nignited in shallow pans and maintained by ad-\nditions of the powders, the compositions are\nsomewhat different.\nWhite Fire.-\nNiter 16 oz.\nMealed powder 4 oz.\nSulphur 8 oz.\nYellow Fire.—\nNiter 2 oz.\nSulphur 4 oz.\nNitrate of soda 20 oz.\nLampblack 1 oz.\nRed Fire.—\nNiter 5 oz.\nSulphur. 6 oz.\nNitrate of strontia 20 oz.\nLampblack 1 oz.\nBlue Fire.—\nNiter 8 oz.\nSulphur 2 oz.\nSulphate of copper, 4 oz.\nGreen Fire.\nNiter 24 oz.\nSulphur 16 oz.\nNitrate of baryta 48 oz.\nLampblack 1 oz.\nBengal Fire.—\nSulphur 4 oz.\nMealed powder 4 oz.\nAntimony 2 oz.\nLampblack 16 oz.\nFrom the Western Druggist\nRed Fire.—\nStrontium nitrate 3 parts.\nPotassium chlorate 1 part.\nShellac, in coarse powder 1 part.\nMix.\nGreen Fire.\nBarium nitrate 3 parts.\nPotassium chlorate 1 part.\nShellac 1 part.\nMix.\nViolet Fire.—\nCalcium carbonate 2 parts.\nMalachite 2 parts.\nSulphur 2 parts.\nPotassium chlorate 6 parts.\nMix.\nPurple Fire.—\nCopper sulphide 1 part.\nStrontium nitrate 14 parts.\nCalomel 14 parts.\nPotassium chlorate 15 parts.\nShellac 5 parts.\nMix.\nOn account of the calomel, this must not be\nburned indoors.\nYellow Fire.\nSodium nitrate 3 parts.\nPotassium chlorate 1 part.\nShellac 1 part.\nMix.\nBlue Fire.\nCopper ammonia sulphate 3 parts.\nPotassium chlorate 1 part.\nShellac 1 part.\nMix.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0489.jp2"},"486":{"fulltext":"Pyrotecli ny.\n474\nPyroteclmy,\nFive-Pointed Star.\nNumber.\nMeal powder\nSulphur\nNiter\nSulphide of antimony\nSpur Fire, for Flower Pots and Star Candles.\nNumber.\nVegetable black I 7\nSulphur 14\nKealgar, or sulphide of ar\nsenic\nNiter\nMeal powder\nCharcoal\n2\n3\n4\n5\n6\n2\n3\n4\n2\n4\n5\n4\n16\n6\n9\n1\n1\n2\n1\n1\n16\n10\n32\n11\n20\n3\nIT\n4\n5\n4\n1\n1\nFlower Pots, Composition for.— Niter,\nparts; sulphur, 8 parts lampblack, 6 parts.\nGerhe.\n18\nNumber\n1\n2\n2\n16\n1\n5\n2\n3\n2\n36\n6\n8\n3\n4\n1\n4\n1\n8\n3\n5\n16\n8\n1\n6\n2\n10\n7\n2\n7 8\n3 2\n6 4\n916\n5 8\n2 1\nI\ni\n1\n9\n2\n9\n2\n5\n2\n10\n2\n4\n2\n3\n2\n11\n8\n1\n1?\nCast iron borings\nCharcoal\nCoke grains\nPorcelain grains..\n3\n1\nThe Mixture for Golden Bain is Composed of.—\nNiter. 16 oz.\nSulphur 11 oz.\nMealed powder 4 oz.\nLampblack 3 oz.\nFlowers of zinc 1 oz.\nGum arabic 1 oz.\nAll the materials used in fireworks must be\nin the state of fine powders and perfectly dry.\nGunpowder.— The component parts of gun-\npowder are saltpeter, sulphur, and charcoal,\nused in the following proportions\n1. English war powder.— Saltpeter, 75 parts;\nsulphur, 10 parts; charcoal, 15 parts.\n2. French war powder.— Saltpeter, 75 parts;\nsulphur, 12*5 parts; charcoal, 12*5 parts.\n3. French sporting powder.— Saltpeter, 76 9\noarts; sulphur, 9 6 parts; charcoal, 13*5 parts.\n4. French blasting powder. Saltpeter, 62\nparts; sulphur, 20 parts; charcoal, 18 parts.\nThere are a number of variations of the above\nreceipts, but the difference, which is purely a\nmatter of opinion, consists principally in vary-\ning the quantity of sulphur or charcoal em-\nployed. See Powders.\nInflamant.\nNumber\n1\n2\n3\nMeal powder\n1\n8\n4\n1\n16\n8\n1\n24\nF. F. F. grain\n12\nLances.— 1. Lances are small paper cases, two\nto four in. in diameter, filled with composition,\nand are used to mark the outlines of figures.\nThey are attached endwise to light wooden\nframes or sticks of bamboo and connected by\nstreamers or quick match. The following are\nsome of the compositions used in these\nWhite Yellow Red Blue Green\nNiter 26 16 8 96\nSulphur 9 4 10 2 64\nMealed powder 5 4 7J6\nNitrate of soda. 16\nLampblack 2 8\nNitrate of strontia. 30\nSulphate of copper 4\nNitrate of baryta.. 192\n2. Lances are used in making up devices, such\nas names, mottoes, wreaths, and so on. They\nconsist of small cases, generally made about\nr 3 g of an inch in diameter, that is, round a piece\nof glass or brass rod or tube/of that size; tubes\nare always best for these small formers. The\ncases are about 2 or 2}4 in. long, with one end\npinched or turned in. Two rounds of thin\ndemy or double crown white paper, pasted,\nwill give sufficient thickness and substance for\nthe case. The cases, when dry, are to be filled\nwith either of the compositions in the same\nway as golden rain\nCompositions for Lances. White.— 1. Niter,\n16 parts; sulphur, 8 parts; meal powder, 6 parts.\n2. Niter, 16 parts; sulphur, 4 parts; meal pow-\n6 parts.\n3. Niter, 12 parts; sulphur, 4 parts; sulphide of\nantimony, 3 parts.\n4. Niter, 72 parts; sulphur, 18 parts; regulus\nof antimony, 33 parts; realgar, 1 part; shellac, 1\npart.\n5. Niter, 96 parts; sulphur, 24 parts; regulus\nof antimony, 48 parts; realgar, 6 parts; shellac,\n1 part. These for the most part give a bluish\nwhite flame, and when employed in cases of the\nsize mentioned above, burn slowly, and will\nlast as long as this species of firework is re-\nquired to last.\nYellow. 1. Chloride of potash, 72 parts;\noxal. soda, 60 parts; stearine, 6 parts; sulphur, 6\nparts.\nPin Wheels.\n1\n1\n1\n2\n2\n3\n4\n9\n3\n5\n9\n15\n4\n1\n8\n5\n7\n9\n20\n1\n6\n14\n16\n32\n3\n7\n4\ni\n1\n1\n8\n4\nA\n3\n9\n2\n5\n36\n2\n10\n2\n2\n26\n2\n1\n11\n3\n3\n35\n3\n2\n12\n2\n2\n18\n3\n13\nSulphur\nNiter\nMeal powder\nSulphuretof\nAntimony\nBeech sawdust,\nfine\n3\nLitharge, fine..\nOrpiment, or\nVegetable black\nNitrate of lead.\n1\nCompositions for Pin Wheels, etc.—\nCommon. Brilliant. Chinese. White.\nNiter\nSulphur\nMealed pow-\nder\nCharcoal\nSteel filings\nCast iron fil-\nings\n6\n1\n16\n6\n1\n1\n16\n7\n7\n16\nPort Fire.\nNumber\nMeal powder\nSulphur\nNiter\n1\n2\n3\n3\n1\n1\n4\n2\n2\n12\n4\n6\n5\n8\n25\nQuick Match.— Make a thick paste of gun-\npowder and hot water, with a small quantity\nof gum in it. Take a bout four strands of cot-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0490.jp2"},"487":{"fulltext":"Pyrotecliny.\n475\nPyrotecliny.\nton, such as is sold in balls and used for making\nthe wicks of lamps, steep this in the solution of\nniter used for making- touch paper, and wring-\nit as dry as possible then rub it well in the\ngunpowder paste till it is thoroughly covered\nwith it. One end of the cotton may be passed\nthrough a small funnel, whose mouth is not\nmore than in. in width. By this means, if\nthe whole length of the cotton is drawn\nthrough it, the superfluous paste will be re-\nmoved, and the match will be of a nice round\nform. Hang it out of doors on a dry day, and\nwhen it is nearly dry coil it upon a tray or\npaper, and dust it over with meal powder. In\nwinter it will not be sufficiently dry for use\nunder a week. When thoroughly dry it should\nbe stiff and hard, and the less it is bent or\ndoubled the better. To use this match for con-\nnecting the mouths of different fireworks, or\nclothing them, as it is termed, make some long-\npaper tubes round a wire former which has a\ndiameter of not less than T 3 5 in. These pipes are\nthreaded on the match, and have a piece cut\naway at their sides wherever they are inserted\ninto the mouth of a case, in order that the\nmatch may be laid bare and convey its fire to\nthe priming of the cases.\nSilver Rain.\nNumber\nSteel filings...\nMeal powder...\nNiter\nSulphur\nCharcoal\nNitrate of lead\n12 3\n12 2\n4 7 8\n1\n1\n4\n3\n2\n3\n10\nGold Bain.\nNumber\n1\n2\n3\n4\n5\nSulphur\n1\n2\n6\n16\n1\n2\n1\n6\n1\n2\n5\n18\n1\n4\nNiter\nMeal powder\n3\n8\nRoman Candles.— To Make a Roman Candle.\n—Procure a straight piece of brass tube, of\nan inch external diameter and 16J^ inches long.\nSaw or file off a piece, 1^ inch long, Fig. 1.\nThis is for the star former, and is drawn of the\ncorrect size.\nIn the other piece, of 15 inches, fix a handle,\nas shown, in diminutive, in Fig. 7. This is for\nthe case former. It should be filed smooth at\nthe end.\nTake another piece of brass tube, i 9 5 of an\ninch external diameter and about 16^ inches\nlong. In this also fix a handle, or fix it into a\nhandle, Fig. 4. Invert it, and set it upright in\na flower pot, filled with sand or loose mould.\nMelt some lead in a ladle, and pour it slowly\ninto the tube, leaving room for the air to es-\ncape up the side, till it is full. If the lead is\npoured in rapidly, the confined air, expanding,\njerks the metal up, and may cause serious\ninjury. A pound or more of lead will be re-\nquired. When cold, drive the end of the lead in\nwith a hammer, and file in smooth. This is for\na rammer.\nTake a piece of deal, Fig. 6, about 12 inches\nlong, 6 inches broad, and inch thick; and, on\nthe top, screw a handle, like one on a scrubing\nbrush. This is for a rolling board. An iron\ndoor handle would answer. A wooden one,\nhowever, about an inch thick, not cylindrical,\nbut slightly flat, and rounded at the edges, is\npreferable, as it gives more purchase for the\nhand.\nCut a piece of tin, or zinc, or thin board into\nthe shape of figure 8, in which the distance be-\ntween the arms, a and b, across the dotted\nline, shai be vf an inch. This is for a gauge,\nwith which to measure the external diameter of\nthe case. Write upon it, space.\nProcure some 60 lb., 70 lb. or 84 lb. imperial\nbrown paper the size of a sheet will be 29 in.\nby 22^. Cut a sheet into four equal parts, each\n14^2 by 1134; paste the four pieces on one side,\nand lay them on one another, with the pasted\nface upward, putting the fourth piece with\nthe pasted side downward, upon the pasted\nside of the third piece. Turn them over; take\noff the now top piece, and lay it flat on the\nRockets.\n1\n1\n4\n8\n2\n1\n2\n5\n3\n12\n17\n50\n4\n4\n5\n16\n5\n8\n11\n32\n6\n4\n7\n16\nrr\nI\n2\n4\n9\n8\n4\n8\n16\n3\n9\n2\n12\n20\n1\n10\n2\n8\n16\n1\n11\n1\n2\n4\n1\n12\n1\n2\n4\n2\n13\n8\n27\n36\n6\n14\n1\n2\n4\n2\n1\n15\n1\n2\n4\n1\n1\n16\n1\n4\n8\n1\n17\n2\n4\n8\n1\n18\nCharcoal\n1\nNiter\nSteel filings\n4\nRockets, ^j-lb.— Composition for.— 1. Niter, 9\noz.; sulphur, 2 oz.; meal powder, IJ^oz.; fine\ncharcoal, 2 oz.; No. 2 charcoal, 2 oz.\n2. Niter, 8 oz.; sulphur, 2 oz.; meal powder,\nl^oz.; fine charcoal, 4oz.\n3. Niter, 8oz.; sulphur, l}4 oz.; fine charcoal,\n3 oz.; No. 2 charcoal, lj^oz.\nRockets, 34-lb.— Composition for.— 1. Niter, 8\noz.; sulphur, 1}^ oz.; meal powder, 2 oz.; fine\ncharcoal, 2}4 oz.; No. 2. charcoal, lj^oz.\n2. Niter, 8 oz.; sulphur, 1)4 oz.; meal powder,\n2J4 oz.; fine charcoal, 2 oz.; No. 2 charcoal,\n2oz.\n3. Fine fire. Niter, 8 oz.; sulphur, 2 oz.; meal\npowder, 2}4 oz.; fine charcoal, 4 oz.\nRoman Candle.\nNumber,\n1\n4\n2\n2\n3\n3\n4\n1\n5\n1\n6\n2\n7\n7\n8\n3\n9\n4\n10\nH\n1112\n8| 3\n13\n8\n14\nCharcoal\n3\n3 3\n2\n1\n3\n8\n1\n1 7\n9 3\n11 2\nNiter\n8\n2 8\n4\n3\n9\n21\n4\n5 18\n18 10\n32 1\nMeal p wder.\n8\n8 3\n3\n2\n4\n12\n5\n4 4\nV\n3\nnear edge of a table, pasted side upward.\nTake the former, Fig. 7, and paste the tube all\nover. Lay it along the edge of the paper, bend\nthe paper over with the fingers of both hands,\nand roll it tierhtly up, until the external diam-\neter of the case about fits the guage, Fig. 8.\nIf the paper should be too long, of course a\npiece must be cut off if it should not be long\nenough, more must be added, taking care to\nbind in the second piece with three or four\ninches of the first piece; for if the whole of\nthe first piece be rolled up before beginning\ntne second, the latter, Avhen dry, will probably\nslip off and spoil the case. The case having\nbeen rolled up, take the handle of the former\nin the left hand, lay the case flat on the near\nside of the table, take the rolling board, Fig. 6,\nin the right hand, press the front part of it on\nthe case, and drive it forward five or six times,\nlike a jack plane, letting the handle of the\nformer slip round in the left hand. This will\ntighten the case, and render it, when dry, as\nhard as a book cover.\nThe former must always be pasted before\nrolling a case, to prevent its sticking. It","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0491.jp2"},"488":{"fulltext":"Pyroteclmy.\n476\nPyrotechny.\nshould, likewise, be wiped clean with a damp\nsponge before being laid aside. Brass tubes\nkeep clean a much longer time if lacquered.\nTo lacquer them, clean them with very fine\nglass paper make them hot by the fire, till you\ncan just bear them on the back of the hand\nthen, with a camel s hair pencil, wash them\nover with thin lac solution. The cases may be\neither 14J^j or 11J4 in. long but 11J4 is the best,\nfor when the cases are too long, the fuse, as it\napproaches the bottom, is apt, if slow, to\nsmoke if fierce, to set the top of the case in a\nflame. If the learner decides upon 11J4 in.,\nthe former and rammer may each be two or\nthree inches shorter.\nAfter the first case has been rolled up to fit\nthe gauge, it may be unrolled and the paper\nmeasured. Future pieces of the same quire\nof paper can then be cut of the right size at\nonce, so that the case will fit the gauge without\nfurther trouble.\nA large slab of slate is convenient for rolling\nupon, but a smoothly planed board will answer\nevery purpose.\nWhen a number of cases are finished hitch a\npiece of flax two or three times round each of\nthem, and hang them up to dry in a place free\nfrom draught, that they may not warp.\nFlax is sold in balls; the thick yellow is the\nbest. It is named indifferently, flax or hemp.\nIt is much used by shoemakers and is sold at\nthe leather shops. Two or three thicknesses of\nthis, waxed, or drawn through the hand with a\nlittle paste, is very convenient for passing\nround the necks of small choked cases, tying\ncases on wheels, etc.\nTo Make a Roman Candle Star.— Take the\nformer, Fig. 1, which, as said before, is 1)4 in.\nlong; have a cylindrical piece of turned wood,\nbox, beech or mahogany, Fig. 2, about 2 in.\nlong, and of a diameter to just fit easily into\nFig. 1. At a point, a, at the distance of about\nof an inch from the end, d, with a bradawl or\nvery small gimlet or nosebit, make a hole and\ndrive in a piece of brass wire, to project just so\nmuch as to prevent the tube slipping over it.\nA piece of a brass rivet, such as used by shoe-\nmakers, is convenient for the purpose. The\npart with the head on is best; a quarter of an\ninch length will be sufficient, filed or cut off\nwith the nippers. It is evident that upon in-\nserting Fig. 2 into the tube, Fig. 1, a vacant\nspace of of an inch will be left at the bottom.\nFig. 3 is a piece of turned wood, or better still,\nof turned brass, exactly like Fig. 2, without the\nside pin, a. Now, to pump a star, insert Fig. 2\nin Fig. 1; press the tube into damped composi-\ntion, turn it round and withdraw it. Rest the\ntube on a flat surface, insert Fig. 3 and give it\ntwo or three taps with a small mallet, like Fig.\n26. A convenient size for the mallet is lj^j in.\nsquare, 3 in. long, with a turned handle. The\nmallet is best made of beech or mahogany. The\nslight malleting consolidates the star and pre-\nvents it from getting broken in charging; it\nwill compress it to about nine-sixteenths of an\ninch in height. Push it out and set it by to\ndry.\nStars are best made in summer, and dried in\nthe sunshine; when dry they should be put\ninto clean pickle bottles furnished with tight\nfitting buugs. A piece of wash leather passed\nover the bottom of the bung, gathered up\nround the sides, and tied at the top like a choke,\nmakes a good stopper. Shot shaken up in bot-\ntles, with water, soon cleans them.\nTo Damp Stars.— Stars containing nitrate of\nstrontium must be damped either with lac solu-\ntion or wax solution; anything containing\nwater destroys the color. Niter stars may be\ndamped with gum water, dextrine solution or\nthin starch. Most other stars with either of\nthe solutions. Crimsons and greens will mix\nwith boiled linseed oil, but they cannot then\nbe matched, as oil renders meal powder almost\nimflammable. With all stars, not a drop more\nof the solution should be used than is sufficient\nto make the composition bind; and it is advis-\nable not to damp more than half an ounce at a\ntime; this is particularly the case in using the\nlac solution, as it dries rapidly; and if a large\nquantity of composition is damped and gets\ndry and has to be damped over and over again,\nit becomes clogged with the shellac and the\ncolor is deteriorated. If it should get dry, and\nrequire a second damping, it, is best to use pure\nalcohol only the second time.\nBefore mixing compositions, every article\nshould be as fine as wheaten flour and perfectly\ndry. Nitrate of strontium, if purchased in the\nlump, should be set over the fire in a pipkin; it\nwill soon begin to boil in its water of crystal-\nlization; it must be kept stirred with a piece of\nwood till the water is evaporated and a fine\ndry powder left. A pound of crystals will\nyield about eleven ounces of dry powder, which\nshould be immediately bottled. Even then, If\nused in damp weather, it is best dried again\nand mixed with the other ingredients while\nwarm. This second drying may be in a six\ninch circular frying pan.\nArticles, separately, may be reduced to pow-\nder with the pestle in a mortar. See that it is\nwiped clean every time, as there is danger of\nignition with chlorates and sulphides. When\nthe articles are to be mixed, they may be put\ninto the mortar and stirred together with a\nsmall sash tool. A in. is a convenient size.\nThe mixture must then be put into a sieve and\nshaken in the usual way; or it may be brushed\nthrough with the sash tool. Return it to the\nsieve and brush and shake through again. As\nit lies in a heap* level or smooth it with the\nblade of a table knife, or any straight edge: if\nthoroughly mixed, it will present a uniform\ncolor; if it appears darker in one part than in\nanother, it must be sifted again. A sieve with\na top and receiver is very desirable, as nearly\nall mixtures are either black or poisonous; the\ndust from star mixtures is very injurious to the\nlungs. If a top and receiver cannot be readily\npurchased, both may easily be constructed out\nof a sheet of millboard, fastened with a brad-\nawl and waxed yellow flax, and neatly covered\nwith paper.\nMixtures may be damped on a Dutch tile, a\nmarble slab, or a slate without a frame. They\nmay be stirred about with a dessert knife,\npressed flat, and chopped, or minced, as it\nwere,, and again pressed flat.\nTo Make Lac Solution.— Put half an ounce\nof flake shellac into a tin pot, and pour upon\nit J4 of a pt. or 5 oz. of methylated spirit; or\npreferably, a like quantity of wood naphtha.\nLet it stand for about a day, stirring it oc-\ncasionally till dissolved. Then half fill a basin\nwith boiling water, set the tin containing the\nlac in it and leave it till it boils and curdles.\nIf the water does not remain hot long enough\nto make it boil, set it in a second basin of boiling\nwater. As soon as it has curdled remove it,\nand when cold pour it into a vial and cork it.\nSpirit must never be boiled over a fire nor\nnear one, as the vapor might inflame. Keep\nthe pot, therefor, while in the hot water, at a\ndistance from a fire or flame of a lamp or can-\ndle.\nTo Make Wax Solution.— Put into a vial an\noz. of white (bleached beeswax), pour upon it\n5 oz. of mineral naphtha (coal or gas tar naph-\ntha); keep it tightly corked.\nTo Make Stearine Solution. Dissolve a\npiece of composite candle in mineral naphtha\nin the same way. Mineral naphtha must not\nbe used near a candle or fire, as it gives off\nan inflammable vapor at less than 100° Fahren-\nheit.\nTo Make Gum Solution.— There is no better\nway of preparing this than simply to put cold\nwater upon gum arabic, and let it stand till\ndissolved. If for sticking purposes, as much\nwater as will just cover the gum will be suf-\nficient: but, for making quick match, 1 oz. or\n134 oz. of gum to a pint of water. If required","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0492.jp2"},"489":{"fulltext":"Pyrotechny.\n47:\nPyroteclmy.\nin a hurry, put the gum into cold water, in a\npipkin or tin saucepan, set it on the fire, make\nft boil, and keep stirring- till dissolved. When\ncold, bottle and cork it.\nTo Make Dextrine Solution.— Take J^ an oz.\nof dextrine and 5 oz. or a J4 pt. of cold water,\nput the dextrine into a cup or basin, add a\nlittle of the water, and mix it well with a tea-\nspoon, rubbing- it till all is dissolved; then add\nthe remainder of the water, stir well together\na second time, pour it into a vial and cork for\nuse. Dextrine, wetted to the consistency of\nhoney, may be used instead of thick gumarabic\nwater for pasting. For this purpose it is ad-\nvisable to keep either in a Avide mouthed bot-\ntle, and to set the bottle in a gallipot contain-\ning a little water; the brush, a camel s hair\npencil, or very small sash tool with one-third\nof the bristles cut away on each side, to render\nit flat, can then be kept in the water when not\nin use; this will prevent it, on the one hand,\nfrom becoming dry and hard; and, on the\nother, from getting clogged and swollen. It\ncan be squeezed between the thumb and fingers\nwhen wanted for use. The flat gum brushes\nnow sold, bound with tin, are not pleasant to\nuse* as the tin oxidizes and turns of a disagree-\nable brown color. If there is a difficulty in\nobtaining a graduated water measure, one\nsufficiently correct for pyrotechnic purposes\nmay be made with a vial. Paste a narrow strip\nof paper up the outside of the vial, weigh 4 oz.\nof water in a cup in the scales; pour it into\nthe vial, mark the height, and divide it into\nfour equal parts for ounces; of course, it can\nbe graduated into half and quarter ounces, and\nincreased, if large enough, to five or more\nounces. A gallon of distilled water weighs ex-\nactly ten pounds. Consequently a pint of pure\nwater weighs a pound and a quarter. This is\nalso near enough for spirit, though, of course,\nspirit is a trifle lighter. Doctors vials are often\nmarked with ounce divisions.\nTo Make Paste.— Paste is most economically\nmade in a zinc pot, which may be 4 in. deep\nand 3J4 in. diameter. Any zinc worker will\nmake one to order. Put into it 2 oz. wheaten\nflour, add a little cold water, rub the two to-\ngether with a spoon till smooth and free from\nlumps pour in more water till the pot is full\nwithin about an inch, set the pot in half a\nsaucepanful of water, put it on the fire; make\nthe water boil, and keep it and the paste boil-\ning for four or five minutes, stirring the paste\nthe while. Remove it from the fire, and set it\nby to cool. The paste is to remain in the zinc\npot, in which it will keep good for a length of\ntime and beautifully white.\nSome recommend alum in paste; but it is\nbest avoided, especially in cases intended to re-\nceive colored fires. Alum is a double salt, a\nsulphate of alumina and potassa it has an acid\nreaction; and, coming in contact with chlorate\nof potash and sulphur, may cause spontaneous\ncombustion. A drop of sulphuric acid instantly\nignites stars containing them. At theaters the\nclown sometimes fires a cannon with what ap-\npears to be a red hot poker, but which in real-\nity is only a piece of wood painted red. A mix-\nture is made of chlorate of potash and sulphur\nor sugar, a glass bead is filled with sulphuric\nacid, and the hole stopped up with wax. This\nis laid in the mixture, and when it is struck\nwith the poker, the liquor escapes and inflames\nthe potash and sulphur. Sulphate of copper is\na particularly dangerous salt, and must never\nbe used, as it is almost certain to cause sponta-\nneous combustion. Chertier, to whom pyro-\ntechny otherwise owes so much, introduced\nan empirical preparation, by dissolving sul-\nphate cf copper in water, together with chlo-\nrate of potash, drying it, and wetting it with\nammonia but this, however dried, when again\nwetted, turns litmus paper red. Practicus has\nnamed it -Ghertier s copper. Its use is not\nrecommended.\nTwo paste brushes will be sufficient for an\namateur, sash tools, one about an inch diame-\nter, the other smaller for light purposes. Let\nthem stand in the paste. If they get dry, the\nbristles fall out. For convenience, one may be\nkept in the paste and one in water.\nDry clay, powdered and sifted as fine as possi-\nble, is used for plugging or stopping up the\nbottoms of cases. Amateurs have discon-\ntinued its use, and employ plaster of Paris in\npreference. Directions will be given for each,\nso that the learner can adopt which he pleases;\nbut plaster is infinitely preferable. It is an\nAmerican improvement.\nKoman Candle Scoops.— No species of fire-\nworks require greater care in their construc-\ntion than Roman candles. In the first place the\nstars must be fierce, that they may light thor-\no ughly next, they must not be driven out with\ntoo great velocity. For this purpose the blowing\npowder must be caret uhy adjusted. The stars\nalso must be of so easy a fit that when put into\nthe case they may fall to the proper depth of\ntheir own accord. If they require pushing, they\nare too tight, and will probably be blown out\nblind. When made as directed they will neces-\nsarily be of an easy fit, as they will be of the\ninner diameter of the brass tube, while the\nbore of the case is equal to its external diame-\nter,\nTo regulate the blowing powder, prepare a\nnumber of little scoops, like Fig. 5, which is\nabout the right size for the bottom star. They\nare formed of pieces of tin, zinc, or copper.\nCut a long strip of tin */z in. broad; cut this\nacross into 7 pieces of the following lengths:\n1%, 1M, 1%, 2, 2Y8, 234, and 4 in. Round off the cor-\nners. Take a piece of brass wire, or stair rod,\nabout 34 in. in diameter, and with the wooden\nmallet before mentioned, Fig. 26, bend each\nS7\nof the pieces round the rod into a half cylinder\nor gutter. Take up the smallest and hold in.\nof the end of the stair rod in the end of the\nsemi-cylinder to keep it open; put the other\npart, from a to b, Fig. 5, in a vise and pinch it\nup; it will assume the form represented; the\nbowl part will be hi. long and the handle lin.\nlong. Make the bowl of the next scoop f in.\nlong, the next in., and so on; the handle will\nalways be 1 in. long. The last, for the top star,\nwill have a bowl of 3 in. The smallest scoop\nought to hold as much grain powder as will\nweigh about one twelfth of the star; but to\nhave the scoops accurate, it will be necessary\nto charge a Roman candle, fire it, and observe\nwhether the stars go a uniform height. For\nmeasuring the interval fuse, or fuse between\nthe top of one star and the bottom of the next,\na large scoop of the size of Fig. 10 will be re-\nquired. The tin may be 1 in. broad, and the\nbowl part 23^ in. long, bent round the rammer,\nFig. 4. To adjust it, take a Roman candle\ncase, fit on the foot, Fig. 9, which is a piece\nof wood or brass turned with a tenon to fit\ntight at the bottom of the case. Fill the scoop\nand strike it level with a straight edge; empty\nit into the case, rest the foot on a flat surface;\ninsert the rammer, Fig. 4, and jolt it up and\ndown a dozen times or more, lift it about\nV2 in. at a time put in another scoopful\nand jolt it in like manner. If the two scoop-\nf uls thus compressed fill 1 in. of the case, the\nscoop will be correct. If more or less, the\nscoop must be shortened or lengthened accord-\ningly.\nA piece of writing paper may be pasted and","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0493.jp2"},"490":{"fulltext":"Pyrotechny.\n478\nPyrotechny.\nwound twice round the handle of each scoop,\nas from a to ~b, Fig-. 4. One dot can be put\nupon the scoop for the first or bottom star\ntwo dots for the second scoop, etc., or any\nmemorandum can be written upon them for\nfuture guidance. Should they get soiled, they\nmay be cleaned with a soaped damp piece of\nsponge.\nGunpowder for fireworks is used in two\nforms, meal powder and grain powder. Meal\npowder is a fine black dust and is employed in\nall cases of mixing. Grain powder is of three\nkinds, F, FF, and FFF— fine, double fine and\ntreble fine. FFF is best for crackers, simply\nbecause it runs rapidly down the pipes for\ndriving stairs, shells, etc., F will be sufficient,\nCTb\na\nc^^\na\n8\nb","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0494.jp2"},"491":{"fulltext":"Pyrotecliny.\n479\nPyrotechny.\nbut FFF may be employed FF need not be\npurchased. If in any place there should be a\ndifficulty in obaining meal powder, F grain\npowder may be crushed in a leather bag by\nlaying the bag on a hard surface and beating\nit with a hammer. The leather should be of\nthe same kind as shoes are made of.\nTo Charge Roman Candle Cases.— Pour some\nF grain powder into a wooden bowl or platter,\nrepresented by Fig. 11. Round the edge lay\nthe little blowing powder scoops side by side,\nbeginning with the smallest at a, the next at\nb, and so on to g. Put some Roman candle\nfuse into a large tin scoop, made to stand on a\nflat bottom, like Fig. 12, the same in shape as\nused by tea dealers and, on the right hand of\nit lay the charging fuse scoop. Fig. 10. If the\nRoman candle is to contain different colored\nstars, set seven ia a row in the order desired.\nWhen the cases are intended to be fired in\nthrees or fours, the stars in one may be all\nblue, in another crimson, in another green, in\nanother white. Fit the foot, Fig. 9, in the bot-\ntom of the case, put in a scoopf ul of clay,\ninsert the rammer, Fig. 4, and jolt it till the\nclay is well composed. The clay should fill half\nan inch. This being done, invert it, and shake\nout any little dust that may remain. Put in\nthe little scoopf ul, a, of F grain powder, then\nlay the scoop at A. Now put in a star. As\npreviously stated, it ought to fall of its own\naccord but make sure that it has reached the\nblowing powder by putting in the rammer.\nHaving ascertained this, put in a scoop of\nfuse, Fig. 10 lay the scoop on the right of Fig.\n12; insert the rammer and jolt it; put in\nanother scoop of fuse, Fig. 10 lay the scoop on\nthe right of Fig. 12; insert the rammer and jolt\nit as before. Then proceed with the scoop, b,\nof grain powder and lay it at B, and so on, till\nthe case is filled. The fuse on the top star is\nbest driven in with a short solid rammer and\nmallet, as it is difficult to jolt the long rammer\nin so small a space. The last eighth of an inch,\nnear the mouth of the case, should be fine meal\npowder, as it binds better than the Roman\ncandle fuse, and also blows off the leader pipe.\nThe blowing powder scoops, having been laid\nat A, B, etc., all that is required is to turn the\nbowl or platter a little round to the left and\nthey will come in rotation ready for the next\ncase. Also, by putting the scoop, Fig. 10, alter-\nnately to the left and right of the scoop, Fig.\n12, it will always be known whether the proper\nquantity of fuse has been put in.\nColored stars, from their fierceness, have a\ntendency to burn in the cases. This defect\nmay be remedied by putting upon each star a\nsmall coopful of starting fire, No. 1, before\nputting in the interval f use as much as will fill\nround the sides of the star. This composition\nis somewhat fiercer than would suit for the\nregular fuse; so catches the blowing powder\nsooner.\nA Roman candle is well charged when the\nstars isochronize, or comeoutat equal intervals\nof time; they should also, theoretically, ascend\nto equal heights; but with colored stars this\ncannot be perfectly insured, as some shrink\nmore than others in drying, and of course fit\nmore loosely; some are heavier, some fiercer\nthan others.\nThe interval fuse must always be driven in\nat twice, never at once. Each star, with its\nblowing powder and fuse, occupies about an\ninch and a half; perhaps a trifle more.\nInstead of driving in clay at the bottom,\nplaster of Paris may be used, and then the\nfoot. Fig. 9, will not be required. Have some\nplaster of Paris in a wide-mouthed bottle; a\nglass of cold water with a salt spoon in it; and\na number of pieces of paper about four inches\nsquare. Put a small quantity of the plaster on\none of the pieces of paper; indent the middle\nwith the finger; put to it a little water and work\nit up with a dessert knife. Just as it gets to\nthe consistency of mortar and is about to set,\nmould it with the fingers to the shape of a\ncork; push it in to the end of the case; rest the\ncase on a flat surface; insert the rammer and\ngive it two or three slight jolts; turn it round\na few times and withdraw it. If the plaster\nsticks to the end of the rammer, it shows either\nthat you have used the plaster too wet or\nhave not turned the rammer round a suffi-\ncient number of times.\nNo more plaster must be mixed at a time\nthan will suffice for one case. When plaster\nhas once set it cannot be mixed up a second\ntime; therefore take a fresh piece of paper and\nlet the knife be cleaned every time. It is ad-\nvisable to have two dessert knives, then one\ncan be used to scrape the other. As much\nplaster should be used as will fill the case up\nabout half an inch. They must be set by to\ndry; their not requiring the use of the foot\nwiil be found a great convenience.\nRoman candles are usually made from three-\neighths to six-eighths, but five-eighths is a\nvery satisfactory size. If a Roman candle is\nintended to be fired singly, twist a piece of\ntouch paper round the mouth. If the cases are\nintended to be fired in threes, fours, etc., to\nform a bouquet, or to be placed round a mine,\njack-in-the-box, or devil-amOng-the-tailors,\nomit the touchpaper and envelop the case in\ndouble crown, made to project an inch beyond\nthe mouth, to receive the leader or quick-\nmatch.\nA steel pen inserted, nib backward, in the\nend of a small paper tube, rolled round the\nend of a pen holder, makes a neat little scoop.\nIt may be fastened in with a little plaster of\nParis. A scoop may also be made with a quill.\nComposition for Roman Candles. 1. Niter, 18\nparts; sulphur, 6 parts; fine charcoal, 1 parts;\nmeal powder, 4 parts.\n2. Niter, 16 parts; meal powder, 8 parts; fine\ncharcoal, 8 parts; sulphur, 6 parts.\n3. Niter, 16 parts; meal powder, 11 parts; sul-\nphur, 6 parts; antimony, 4 parts. The next\nthing is to fill the case. Before filling it intro-\nduce a little clay to the bottom of the case,\nthus forming a better and firmer bottom. This\nbeing done properly, put in a little coarse pow-\nder, and over this a small piece of paper to\nprevent the composition mixing with the\npowder; then ram down as much composition\nas will fill the case one-sixth of its height; over\nthis put a small piece of paper covering about\ntwo thirds of the diameter, then a little corn\npowder, and upon that a ball, observing that\nthe ball is rather smaller than the diameter of\nthe case. Over this first ball more of the com-\nposition must be put and rammed lightly down\nto prevent breaking the ball, till the case is\none third full; then a piece of paper, a little\npowder, and then another ball as before, till\nthe case is filled with balls and composition,\ntaking care to place composition above the\nhighest ball. When the case is thus filled, cap\nit with touch paper by pasting it round the\norifice, and a little priming of powder being\nadded, the work is complete.— Pyrotechnist s\nTreasury.\nSaxon.\n1\n2\n3\n1\n1\n2\n3\n4\n9\n5\n9\n15\nShell Fuse.\nNumber\nMeal powder\nNiter\nSulphur","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0495.jp2"},"492":{"fulltext":"Pyrotechny.\n480\nPyrotechny.\nSignal Fireworks.— The following- proportions\nare given in an English patent by E. H. La-\nmarre, of Paris, for colored lights for signals\nWhite Light.— One hundred parts potassium\nchlorate, 10 parts antimony sulphide, 15 parts\nboiled linseed oil.\nRed Light.— Fifty parts potassium chlorate,\n50 parts strontium nitrate, 5 parts wood char-\ncoal, with as much linseed oil as is required to\nknead the mass together.\nGreen Light.— Fifty parts potassium chlorate,\n50 parts barium nitrate; 5 parts wood charcoal\nand linseed oil, as above. The use of linseed\noil is claimed as a specialty in substitution for\noil of turpentine or resin. Science, Record,\n1874.\nRose Colored Stars.— Chlorate of potash, 20\nparts; carbonate of strontia, 8 parts; calomel,\n10 parts; shellac, 2 parts; sulphur, 3 parts; tine\ncharcoal, 1 part. The advantage of this com-\nposition is that it is not at all liable to suffer from\ndamp in winter. The carbonate of strontia is\na salt not absorbent of moisture like the ni-\ntrate, and is, moreover, always to be had in a\nstate of fine powder.\nGreen Stars.— 1. Chlorate of potash, 20 parts;\nnitrate of baryta, 40 parts; calomel, 10 parts;\nsulphur, 8 parts; shellac, 3 parts; fine charcoal,\n1 part; fused sulphide of copper, 1 part.\n2. Nitrate of baryta, 40 parts; realgar, 2 parts;\nsulphur, 8 parts; lampblack, 1 part.\n3. Chlorate of potash, 28 parts; nitrate of\nSlow Fires, to be Heaped upon a Tile in Shape of a Cone, and Lit at Top.\nColors.\nScarlet.\nGreen.\nPurple.\nYellow.\nCrimson.\nNitrate of strontium.\nNitrate of barytes\nOxalate of soda\nSulphure of copper.\nChlorate of barytes\nChlorate of potash\nCharcoal, fine\nCalomel\nSulphur, washed\nShellac\nVegetable black\nSulphide of antimony.\n16\n1\n1\n4\n24\n3\n3\n6\n8\n1\n108\n30\n12\n24\n39\n2\n1\n16\n1\n1\n4\n16\n1\n5\n2\n_3\n_\n16\n12\n9\n7\n1\n108\n24\n9\n24\n39\n2\n1\n72\n3\n4\n18\n24\n3\n2\n20\n3\n2\n4\n2\n10\n5\n2\n1\n6\n40\n5\n2\n13\n4\n36\n12\n1\n1\n4\nIn order to get the powder into a conical heap, press it into a wineglass, or lay a tile upon the\ntop, and invert.\nTo Make Slow Match.— Dissolve 1 drm. nitrate\nof lead in Yq oz. boiling water. Cut a sheet of\nblotting paper in six equal parts, and wet them\non both sides, with a sash tool, with the\nsolution. When dry, paste a piece all over, and\nupon it smoothly press another piece; upon\nthis, pasted, put a third piece and so on, till\nall the six form a stiff board. Lay them under\na heavy weight and, when dry, with a sharp\nknife and straight edge, cut the whole into\nstrips a quarter of an inch broad. Four inches\nwill burn about a quarter of an hour. Narrow\ntape, boiled in the solution, makes excellent\nslow match.\nSquibs, Compositions for.—l. Meal powder, 20\nparts niter, 6 parts sulphur, 4 parts E. char-\ncoal, 4 parts.\n2. Meal powder, 16 parts; E. charcoal, 2\nparts.\n3. Meal powder, 24 parts; niter, 4 parts; E.\n•charcoal, 4 parts sulphur, 1 part.\n4. Meal powder, 16 parts niter, 6 parts sul-\nphur, 4 parts E. charcoal,3 parts. Weigh out\nall the ingredients, mix them thoroughly, and\npass the composition through a sieve at least\nthree times. The composition cannot be over-\nmixed.\nSquib and Serpent.\n1\n2\n3\n1\nI\n2\n8\n1\n8\nCharcoal\n4\n1\nStars, Crimson. 1. Chlorate of potash, 24\nparts; nitrate of strontia, 32 parts; calomel, 12\nparts; sulphur, 6 parts; shellac in fine powder,\n6 parts; sulphide of copper, 2 parts; fine char-\ncoal, 2 parts.\n2. Chlorate of potash, 12 parts; nitrate of\nstrontia, 20 parts; sulphur, 11 parts; charcoal, 2\nparts; antimony, 2 parts; mastic, 1 part.\n3. Nitrate of strontia, 72 partsr sulphur, 20\nparts; gunpowder, 6 parts; coal dust, 2 parts.\nbaryta, 12 parts; sulphur, 15 parts; mastic, 1\npart.\nPale Rose Colored Stars.— Nitrate of strontia,\n8 parts; chlorate of potash, 4 parts; sulphur, 3\nparts; sulphuret of antimony, 2 parts. Take\nespecial care that the nitrate of strontia used\nin this formula; is very dry.\nPale Green Stars.— Nitrate of baryta, 16 parts;\nchlorate of potash, 8 parts; sulphur, 6 parts;\nantimony, 3 parts.\nYellow Stars.— 1. Chlorate of potash, 20 parts;\nbicarbonate of soda, 10 parts; sulphur, 5 parts;\nmastic, 1 part.\n2. Chlorate of potash, 30 parts; dried soda, 12\nparts; sulphur, 8 parts.\nGolden. Yollow Stars.— Chlorate of potash, 20\nparts; nitrate of baryta, 30 parts; oxalate of\nsoda, 15 parts; sulphur, 8 parts; shellac, 4 parts.\nIf it is thought advisable to give the stars\nmade from this formula a tailed appearance,\nadd one part of fine charcoal. The composi-\ntion is to be moistened with the shellac solu-\ntion. The stars form a beautiful contrast with\nthose of an intense blue.\nBlue Stars.— 1. Chlorate of potash, 8 parts;\nsulphide of copper, 6 parts; Chertier s copper,\n5 parts; sulphur, 4 parts.\n2. Chlorate of potash, 12 parts; Chertier s cop-\nper, 6 parts; sulphur, 4 parts; calomel, 1 part.\n3. Chlorate of potash, 16 parts; Chertier s\ncopper, 12 parts; calomel, 8 parts; stearine, 2\nparts; sulphur, 2 parts; shellac, 1 part. This\ngives a most intense blue.\n4. Chlorate of potash, 20 parts; carbonate of\ncopper, 14 parts; sulphur, 12 parts; mastic, 1\npart.\n5. Niter, 12 parts sulphide of antimony, 2\nparts; sulphur, 4 parts; lampblack, 2 parts. All\nthese compositions should be moistened with\ngum water, and in No. 3 the stearine employed\nmust be in fine powder.\nViolet Stars.— Chlorate of potash, 9 parts; ni-\ntrate of strontia, 4 parts; sulphur, 6 parts; car-\nbonate of copper, 1 part; calomel, 1 part; mas-\ntic, 1 part.\nWhite Stars.— Saltpeter, 9 parts; sulphur, 3\nparts; antimony, 2 parts.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0496.jp2"},"493":{"fulltext":"Fyrotechiiy.\n481\nPyroteeliny.\nNo. 1. Mauve and Lilac Stars and Lances.\nNumber....\nChlorate of potash\nCalomel\nShellac\nNitrate of strontium\nSulphide of copper\nStearine\nSulphur, washed\nChloride of lead\nNitrate of lead\nOxychloride of copper.\nSalammoniac\nVegetable black.\nNiter\nCarb nate of strontium\nOrpiment or realgar.\n1\n3\n3\n4\n5\n6\n7\n8\n28\n17\nBO\n40\n35\n34\n34\n35\n12\n10\n12\n12\n4\n5\n6\n5\n4\n4\n35 14\n4\n16\n2\n7\n30\n5\n3\nsi-\n1\n1\nll—\n7\n1\n35\n10\n2\n-13\n10\n13 1\n8\n1\n12\n1\n6\n1\n2\n5\n4\n1\n2\n13\n16\n10\nThe following refers to table No. 6, page 483\nIf powdered nitrate of barytes and shellac,\ncrushed by being hammered in a bag, are mixed\ntogether and melted in a pipkin over the Are,\nthe mixture, when cold, may be reduced to a\npowder in an iron mortar with patience. Take\nNo. 6. Weigh out 31 parts nitrate of barytes,\nand 3 parts coarsely powdered lac; melt them\ntogether; when cold, powder them, and add\nthe other substances in proper proportion.\nShellac may be melted with nitrate of stron-\ntian, in the same way.\nNo. 2. Sugar Blues for Stars and Lances.\nNumber\n1\n8\n4\n3\n5\n3\n36\n18\n12\n32\n1\n3\n40\n24\n9\n22\n2\n4\n40\n24\n12\n12\n1\n3\n5\n36\n12\n4\n4\n3\n4\n6\n9\n3\n1\n3\n1\n2\n7\n44\n13\n12\n12\n1\n5\n8\n40\n9\n6\n9\n6\n5\n4\n1\n10\nChlorate of potash\nCalomel\n2\n1\nLoaf sugar\nSulphuret of copper.\nStearine\nOxychloride of copper\nSalammoniac\nCopper tilings\nBlack oxide of copper\nNo substance combines better with salts of\ncopper than sugar. Sugar, put into the bowl\nof a tobacco pipe and placed in the fire, burns\nfiercely, and is converted into caramel. This\npoured on to a plate, slightly smeared with\nbutter to prevent it sticking, hardens on cool-\ning and is used for coloring brandy, vinegar,\ngravy, porter, coffee, etc. Stearine must be\nscraped very fine from a Stearine candle.\nSugar blues are to be damped with pure water\nonly, as the sugar itself, when wetted, is suffi-\nciently cohesive. Use an exceedingly small\nquantity of water, and rub it up thoroughly in\nthe mortar the longer it is rubbed, the better\nit combines.\nThe following refers to table No. 10, page 482\nIt is impossible to powder shellac sufficiently\nfine by hand; and, twenty years ago, powdered\nshellac could not be procured. About that\ntime the drug grinders, finding a demand for\nit, submitted it to the action of the stamping-\nmills (mechanical pestle and mortar), and now\nit can be obtained at most shops.\nChertier mixed flake shellac with salt; melted\nthe two together; powdered the mixture; anr\nwashed out the salt. Such process is needles\nnow. It is useless, unless as fine as wheatei.\nflour.\nNo. 4. Steel Stars for Rockets and Shells.\nNumber\n1\n8\n3\n2\n2\n2\n24\n5\n6\n6\n4\n3\n4\n5\nNitrate of lead..\nChlorate of pot-\nash\nCharcoal\n28\n6\n6\n6\n3\n1\n5\n1\n3\n1\n4\nSteel tilings\nNiter\nShellac, tine\nSulphur, washed\n4\n1\nRub up the mixture thoroughly in a mortar,\nwith just enough boiled oil to make it cohere,\nand pump it into Roman candle stars; the oil\nwill preserve the steel from rusting. For\nRoman candles or Italian streamers they will\nbe ready at any time; for rockets and shells\nthey may be matched and enveloped, like\nfigure 32, a day or two previously. Tney form\nbeautiful stars. Or they may be charged in\ncases, and primed with chlorate meal powder.\nOr they may be damped with lac solution.\nNo. 5.\nPearl Streamer.\nNumber\n1\n2\n3\n4\n5\nNiter\n12\n5\n14\n26\n11\n28\n2\n1\n4\n1\n10\n8\n1\nZinc filings\nMeal powder.\nVegetable black.\n15\n12\n1\nInstead of filings, zinc may be obtained in a\nfine powder, by pouring it, melted, into a hot\niron mortar, and hammering it with the pestle\ndirectly it begins to solidify. Sift it through a\nfine sieve. Protect the hands with cloth gloves\nwhile using the pestle. Damp the composition\nwith gum water for Roman candle stars. Bro-\nken bits of the stars may be put into colored\ngerbes.\nNo. 3.\nPurple and Violet Stars and Lances.\nNumber\n1\n42\n42\n13\n12\n4\n4\n1\n2\n28\n14\n14\n1\n5\n3\n48\n48\n38\n28\n40\n1\n4\n16\n2\n7\n8\n5\n6\n4\n1\n2\n1\n1\n6\n16\n6\n6\n4\n7\n3\n1\n2\n3\n4\n8\n6\n1\n3\n2\n1\n9\n26\n20\n3\n4\n14\n10\n30\n3\n8\n12\n4\n12\n11\n96\n24\n48\n1\n42\n12\n34\n2\n8\n1\n4\n2\n13\n20\n6\n8\n1\n5\n2\n14\n32\n12\n13\n2\n1\n8\n15\nChlorate of potash\n37\nNitrate of strontium\nSulphur, washed\n9\nCalomel\n13\nSulphide of copper\nShellac\nVegetable black\n8\nBlack oxide of copper\nCarbonate of strontium\n1\nLoaf sugar.\nOxychloride of copper\n9\nI","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0497.jp2"},"494":{"fulltext":"Pyrotechny.\n482\nPyrotecliny.\nNo. 6. Green or Emerald Stars and Lances.\n1\n16\n16\n5\n1\n8\n8\ni\n1\n1\n3\n132\n108\n6\n48\n24\n1\n4\n32\n51\n6\n5\n144\n160\n4\n8\n21\n3\n7\n1\n2\n7\n3\n2\n2\n1\n8\n1\n1\n9\n4\n1\n10\n16\n8\n8\n5\n1\n11\n6\n7\n3\n5\n5\n12\n12\n5\n4\n1\n2\n3\nu\n16\n8\n4\n1\n2\n4\n14\n3\n3\n2\n2\nisfie\n48 22\n17\n24\n32\n10\n3\n18\n108\n108\n18\n48\n24\n1\n19\n24\n32\n8\n2\n_ 3\n20\n16\n48\n12\n1\n8\n5\n2\n~1\n2\n10\n2\n1\n22\n13\n32\n8\n2\n_\nChlorate of potash\nChlorate of barytes\nCharcoal, fine\n42\n22\nlit\nSulphide of antimony\n27100\nCalomel\nShellac\nVegetable black\nLoaf sugar\n12\n1\n12\n1\n71 1\ni\n714\nOrpiment, or Realgar\n5\nNo. 7.\nDeep and Pale Yellow Stars and Lances.\nNumber\n1\n8\n3\n2\n2\n4\n2\n1\n5\n12\n4\n2\n4\n1\n1\n6\n16\n4\n3\n4\n1\n1\n1\n7\n4\n3\n20\n5\n8\n4\n1\n1\n9\n16\n4\n4\n2\n2\n1\n10\n11 12\n13\n16\n3\n4\n3\n4\n14\n4\n1\n1\n1\n15\n8\n3\n1\n3\n16\n6\n4\n7\n3\n1\n17\n20\n15\n30\n8\n4\n1\n18\n5\n1\n1\n1\n19\n3\n4\n10\n3\n8 16\n4 S\n12\n8\n3\n16\n4\n3\n4\n1\n6\nOxalate of soda\n3\nBicarbonate of soda\n16\n61\n1\n1\n5\n1\nCarbonate of strontium\nNitrate of barytes\nSulphur, washed\n2\nShellac\n1\nCharcoal, fine\nOrpiment, or realgar\nNo. 8.\nWhite or Bright Stars and Lances.\n1\n3\n4\n8\n1\n2\n3\n6\n14\n3\n2\n4\n14\n1\n4\n1\n2\n5\n1\n5\n1\n3\n10\n3\n6\n1\n2\n6\n1\n7\n1\n2\n9\n2\n8\n1\n1\n4\n1\n9\n3\n11\n48\n10\n10\n5\n24\n5\n3\n2\n11\n7\n34\n6\n5\n12\n18\n3\n3\n28\n5\n13\n8\n1\n16\n16\n14\n2\n1\n3\n4\n15\nMeal powder\nSulphur\n1\nSulphide of arsenic, realgar\nNitrate of lead\n2\n12\nShellac\n3\n1\nNo. 9. Blue Stars\nand Lances without Sugar.\n1\n5\n4\n4\n1\n2\n40\n20\n20\n5\n3\n18\n8\n10\n5\n4\n40\n28\n28\n10\n3\n5\n6\n2\n3\n1\n6 7\n8 48\n8 9\n40 24\n12 6\n2 1\n6\n9\n1 1\n3\n1\n1011\n16 30\n12\n24\n8\n1\n4\n2\n1\n13\n8\n1\n3\n1\n3\n14\n22\n8\n6\n2\n5\n15\n40\n20\n25\n5\n2\n16\n6\n3\n5\n2\n17\n16\n1\n2\n4\n18\n24\n8\n1\n2\n5\n19\n2\n1\n1\n20\n5\n1\n1\n2\n21\n40\n20\n5\n5\n6\n22 23\nChlorate of potash\n40 36\n2\n2\n4\n1\n12\n2\n8\n4\n1\n1\n8\n5\n2\n2\n10\n10\n3\n3\n-12\n22\n-1 6\n1 9\n5 9\n3 1\n6\n1\nNo. 10.\nCrimson and,\nScarlet Stars and Lances.\n1\n2\n8\n16\n6\n1\n1\n3\n16\n4\n16\n5\n24\ne\n1\n2\n6\n10\n6\n16\n16\n5\n1\n1\n7\n24\n20\n10\n5\n8\n16\n24\n7\n14\n1\n1\n9\n8\n5\n1\n1\n2\n1\n10\n16\n6\n4\n2\n1\n11\n25\n30\n10\n3\n9\n3\n12\n4\n7\n1\n1\n2\n1\n13\n32\n48\n6\n12\n12\n14\n6\n5\n1\n5\n1\n15\n16\n7\n11\n16\n28\n12\n12\n5\n17\n32\n42\n13\n4\n12\n4\n18\n26\n10\n5\n3\n10\n1\n19\n96\n72\n24\n20\n8\n12\n2\n2122\n23\n24\n24 8\n1812\n2\n5 3\n4\n2\n8\n2\n1\n16\n16\n5\n1\n13\n32\n9\n32\n12\n32\n8\n1 1\n21! 4\n42\n2\nShellac\n4\n7\n3\n2\n1\n4\n1\n5\nLoaf sug ar","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0498.jp2"},"495":{"fulltext":"Pyrotechny.\n48c\nPyrotecliny.\nNo. 11.\nTailed, Streamer, or Comet Stars, for Rockets, Shells and Roman Candles.\nNumber\nVegetable black\nCharcoal\nSulphur\nNitter\nMeal powder\nOxalate of soda\nSulphide of antimony\nChlorate of potash\nAsphaltum, Egyptian.\nBurgundy pitch\nCoke grains, tine\n1\n1\n2\n5\n5\n8\n2\n3\n8\n24\n24\n30\n3\n3\n2\n2\n9\n6\n4\n6\n3\n16\n5\n2\n4\n8\n6\n3\n4\n20\n12\nU\n7\n6\n1\n10\n5\n8\n12\n2\n20\n7\n9\n3\n2\n2\n9\n6\nJ\n10\n1\n4\n12\n12\n8\n11\n1\n3\n4\n3\n1\n13\n1\n3\n4\n3\nz\n1\n13\n3\n8\n4\n12\n4\n14\nOiled Tailed Stars for Rockets and Shells.\nNumber\nCharcoal\nSulphur\nNiter\nMeal powder\nSulphide of antimony\n1\n2\n9\n6\n9\n5\n32\n18\n24\n12\n16\n9\nTo 1 oz. add 24 drops of boiled linseed oil\nrub them thoroughly together in a mortar\nthen spread out the mixture for a few days to\ndry. When dry, mix with starch, dextrine so-\nlution, or gum water, and chop into or in.\ncubical blocks. They will keep for years, and\nimprove by age. In order that a star may tail,\nit must rapidly burn through and leave a cin-\nder, or scoria; from this, as it falls, minute\nportions become detached, and trail behind.\nMagnesium, Colors for Stars and Asteroids.\nS3\no\n■+3\nColors.\na\na\no\no\nO\n03\no\nm\no\nu\nO\n3\ns\nNitrate of strontium\n8\n6\nChloride of barytes\n12\nOxychloride of Copper.\nOxalate of soda J.\n2\n2\nSulphide of antimony..\n1\nChlorate of potash\na\n4\n5\n4\nNiter\n2\n2\n1\n2\n12\n4\n1\nShellac\n2\n3\n1\n1\nCalomel\n4\n2\nMagnesium filings\n2\n3\n3\n1\n2\nA few magnesium filings may be added to any\ncolor.\nStar .bights. Composition for.— Fine dry\nniter, 20 parts sulphur, 6 parts lampblack,\n3)4 parts.\nStarting Fire.\nNumber\nCharcoal\nMeal powder\nSulphur\nNiter\nStreamers.— Streamers or quick matches, used\nfor communicating fire quickly from one tube\nto another in display pieces, are composed of\nthe following composition packed in slender\ncontinuous paper tubes:\nNiter 2 oz.\nSulphur 1 oz.\nMealed powder 16 oz.\nCharcoal 4 oz.\nTo Make Touch Paper.— Dissolve y 2 oz. of niter\nin pt. of hot water. Procure some 12 lb.\ndouble crown blue, cut each sheet into four\nequal parts, fifteen by ten. Lay them smooth\nupon each other, and, with a sash tool dipped\ninto the niter solution, wash them over on one\nside, and hang them up to dry.\nWasp Light.\nNumber.\nNitre 14\nSulphur j 5\nMeal powder 3\nRealgar. 1\nTourbillion.\nNumber\nSulphur\nNiter\nCharcoal\nMeal powder\nSteel filings\nCast iron borings\n1\n1\n4\n2\n1\n2\n3\n5\n3\n4\n3\n3\n16\n8\n8\n4\n7\n10\n4\n24\n8\n5\n3\n8\n3\n16\n6\n6\n4\n32\n6\n32\n5\n8\n7\n4\n17\n4\n6\n8\n4\n17\n5\n8\n9\n2\n4\n4\n3\n10\n4\n8\n9\n4\n11\n1\n8\n10\n7\n12\n7\n20\n23\n14\n13\n4\n14\n3\n13\n2\n5\n14\n1\n4\n2\n1\n1\nWheel and Fixed Cases.\nNumber\nMeal powder\nSulphur\nCharcoal\nNiter\nSteel filings\nVegetable black\nRealgar\nLitharge\n1\n8\n1\n1\n2\n2\n24\n1\n4\n3\n3\n8\n1\n4\n36\n1\n4\n5\n4\n1\n2\n6\n18\n2\n5\n7\n8\n1\n1\n3\n8\n12\n1\n3\n3\n9\n42\n3\n8\n5\n10\n4\n1\n16\n2\n5\n12\n10\n1\n13\n13\n1\n1\n2\n1\n14\n16\n3\n15\n20\n1\n3\n16\n40\n4\n3\n24\n6\n1\n1\n2\n17\nas\ni\na\n4","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0499.jp2"},"496":{"fulltext":"Quantivalence.\n484\nRazors.\nCase Colors for Wheels, Compositions for— 1.\nWhite.— Niter, 10 oz.; sulphur, 3 oz.; regulus\nantimony, 2 oz.; realgar, 1 oz.; red lead, Yz oz.;\nshellac, oz.\n2. Golden Yellow.— Potassium chlorate, 8 oz.;\nbarium nitrate, 2 oz.; shellac, 2 oz.; sodium\noxalate, V/% oz.; stearine, oz.\n3. Orange.— Potassium chlorate, 8 oz.; stron-\ntium chlorate, 1 oz.; barium nitrate, 2 oz.;\nshellac, 2 oz.; sodium oxalate, 1)4 oz\n4. Mauve.— Potassium chlorate, 12 oz.; mer-\ncurous chloride, 4 oz.; strontium nitrate, 2 oz.;\ncopper subsulphate, 2 oz.; shellac, 2 oz.; stear-\nine, oz.\n5. Rich Crimson.— Potassium chlorate, 9 oz.;\nstrontium nitrate, 5 oz.; shellac, 2 oz.; mer-\ncurous chloride, l^oz.; copper sulphide (fused),\n1 oz.; lampblack, 34 oz.\n6. Red.— Potassium chlorate, 8 oz.; strontium\nnitrate, 5 oz.; shellac, 2oz.; mercurous chloride,\nloz.\n7. Brilliant Green.— Potassium chlorate, 10 oz.;\nbarium nitrate, 5 oz.; shellac, 2 oz.; mercurous\nchloride, 2 oz.; pure sulphur, I oz.; copper sul-\nphide, oz.; fine charcoal, y% oz.\n8. Rich Emerald Green.— Potassium chlorate,\n18 oz.; barium nitrate, 9 oz.; barium chlorate, 5\noz.; shellac, 4 oz.; mercurous chloride, 2 oz.;\ncopper powder, 1 oz.; pure sulphur, 1 oz.\n9. Bright Blue.— Potassium chlorate, 7 oz.;\nmercurous chloride, 4 oz.; Chertier s copper, 4\noz.; dextrine, 1% oz.; stearine, l£ oz.\n10. Bright Blue.— Potassium chlorate, 8 oz.;\nChertier s copper, 7 oz.; mercurous chloride, 3\noz.; shellac, 1 oz.; stearine, 1 oz.\n11. Rich Blue.— Potassium chlorate, 8 oz.; cop-\nper subchloride, 2oz.; shellac, oz.; mercurous\nchloride, 3 oz.; stearine, 1 oz.\nAll the ingredients must be perfectly dry\nand fine enough to pass through a forty mesh\nsieve. They should be thoroughly well mixed\nand the ccmpositions should be kept in stop-\npered bottles ready for use.\nQuantivalence. The term quantivalence\nof an atom, or of a group of atoms, is used to\nexpress the number of hydrogen atoms with\nwhich it can be combined or for the Dumber for\nwhich it can be exchanged. Atoms are classi-\nfied according to the combining or exchanging\npower into monads, dyads, triads, pentads,\nhexads and heptads, or else are designated as\nunivalent, bivalent, trivalent, quadrivalent,\netc. The quantivalence is indicated by Roman\nnumerals placed above the chemical sym-\nbol, as O or C xv The words valence, equiv-\nalence and atomicity are used instead of quan-\ntivalence, but the term atomicity is used more\nproperly when it refers to the number of atoms\nin a molecule.\nQuartz, to Polish. See Polishing.\nQueen s Metal.— A species of pewter. See\nAlloys.\nQuills.— Prep. Suspend the quills in a cop-\nper, over water sufficiently high to touch the\nnibs; then close it steam tight and apply four\nhours hard boiling; next withdraw and dry\nthem, and in twenty-four hours cut the nibs\nand draw out the pith; lastly, rub them with a\npiece of cloth and expose them to a moderate\nheat in an oven or stove. The quills prepared\nin this way are as hard as bone, without being\nbrittle, and as transparent as alass.\nRadicle. Syn. Radical. In accordance\nwith the well known binary theory of the con-\nstitution of saline compounds, every salt is\ncomposed, like chloride or sodium of two sides\nor parts, which are termed its radicals. That\npart of a salt which consists of a metal, or of\na body exercising the chemical functions of\none, is called a metallic, basic radical; while the\nother part, which, like chlorine, by combining\nwith hydrogen, would produce an acid, is desig-\nnated the acidulous radical. Every salt, there-\nfore consists of a basic and of an acid rad-\nical.\nRaisin Cider. See Cider.\nRaspberry Vinegar. See Vinegar.\nRatafia.— Ratafia, for flavoring, is by no\nmeans difficult to make when the peach is in\nseason. The following is a simple recipe\nBlanch 2 oz. of peach or apricot kernels bruise\nthem well; put them into a bottle, and fill it\nnearly up with good brandy dissolve in a cup\nof cold water y z lb. of white sugar candy,\nand add it to the brandy after it has stood\nfor a month on the kernels; strain off the\nkernels before you add the sugar; then filter\nthrough paper, and bottle off in small bottles\nfor use. Another rather more expensive\nmethod of making it is to take 50 bruised\npeach kernels, M lb. of bitter almonds, 1 lb.\nof white sugar candy, and mix thoroughly\nwith 1}4 pt. of 90 alcohol then add 3 qt. of\nwater and V/% gal. of malt spirits. —Confec-\ntioners Journal.\nRatafias. See Liquors.\nRats, to Destroy.— 1. When a house is in-\nfested with rats which refuse to be caught by\ncheese and other baits, a few drops of the high-\nly scented oil of rhodium poured on the bottom\nof the cage will be an attraction which they\ncannot refuse.\n2. Place on the floor near where their holes\nare supposed to be a thin layer of moist caustic\npotash. When the rats travel on this, it will\ncause their feet to become sore, which they\nlick, and their tongues become likewise sore.\nThe consequence is that they shun this locality,\nand seem to inform all the neighboring rats,\nabout it, and the result is that they soon aban-\ndon a house that has such a preventive.\n3. Cut some corks as thin as wafers, and fry,\nroast, or stew them in grease, and place the\nsame in their track or a dried sponge fried or\ndipped in molasses or honey, with a small quan-\ntity of bird lime or oil of rhodium, will fasten\nto their fur and cause them to depart.\n4. If a live rat be caught and smeared over\nwith tar or train oil, and afterward allowed to\nescape in the holes of other rats, he will soon\ncause all to take their departure.\n5. If a live rat be caught, and a small bell\nbe fastened around his neck, and allowed to es-\ncape, all of his brother rats as well as himself\nwill very soon go to some other neighbor s\nhouse.\n6. Take a pan, about twelve inches deep, and\nhalf fill it with water then sprinkle some bran\non the water and set the pan in a place where\nthe rats most frequent. In the morning you\nwill find several rats in the pan.\n7. Two parts common squills (well bruised)\nand 3 parts of finely chopped bacon are made\ninto a stiff mass, with as much meal as may be\nrequired, and then baked in small cakes, which\nare put around for the mice to eat.\nRazors, to Grind and Set. Razors\nthat have been in use so long that the edge\nis rounded by strapping can be brought to a\nflat bevel on the edge by placing them on a\nperfectly flat hone or other fine grained stone,\nwith a little thin oil, as lard oil or fine machine\noil, letting the back always rest upon the stone,\nand with small circular motions of the hand,\nwithout pressure, grinding down the bevel un-\ntil the stone marks meet on both sides in a\nthin feather edge. The regular razor hone\nas imported through the cutlery trade from\nEngland is the best. The finest washed flour\nemery, laid on a flat piece of wood with glue\nand pressed down with a flat piece of iron or\nplate glass, or a strip of emery paper glued to\na strip of wood and pressed upon a flat iron or\npiece of glass, will answer the purpose. In\nusing the emery stick always draw the razor\nbackward from the cutting edge, to prevent\ncatching and hacking the edge against any un-\neven particles of emery. For a strap use a\nstrip of fine, even calfskin, glued to a piece of\nwood, on which rub a little paste made of ox-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0500.jp2"},"497":{"fulltext":"Razor.\n485\nReduction.\nide of iron (rouge) mixed with olive oil. Draw\nbackward and keep the heel or back of the\nrazor in contact, so as not to round the edge.\nOxide of tin or putty powder mixed with oil\nalso makes a good razor strap paste. The skin\nof a horse s tail is very highly recommended\nfor razor straps.\nRazor Paper. See Paper.\nRazor Paste. 1. Mix fine emery intimately\nwith fat and wax until the proper consistency\nis obtained in the paste, and then rub it well\ninto the leather strap. Prepare the emery by\npounding thoroughly in a mortar the coarse\nkind, throwing it info a large jug of water and\nstirring well. Immediately the large particles\nhave sunk, pour off into a shallow plate or\nbasin and let the water evaporate. This emery\nis better for polishing and other purposes\nthan that prepared at the emery mills.\n2. The grit from a fine grindstone is very effi-\ncient for a razor paste.\n3. Levigated oxide of tin, prepared putty\npowder, 1 oz.; powdered oxalic acid, J4 oz.;\npowdered gum, 20 grn.; make into a stiff paste\nwith water, and evenly and thinly spread it\nover the strop. With very little friction this\npaste gives a fine edge to the razor, and its effi-\nciency is still further increased by moistening\nit.\n4. Emery reduced to an impalpable powder,\n2 parts; spermaceti ointment, 1 part; mix to-\ngether and rub it over the strop.\n5. Jewelers rouge, black lead and suet, equal\nparts; mix.\n6. Pradier.— Best putty powder, l}4 oz.; jew-\nelers rouge, 1% oz.; scales of iron, oz.; levi-\ngated Turkey stone, 4J^ oz beef suet, 2^4 oz.\n7. Put equal parts of dried sulphate of iron\nand salt in a closed vessel and apply a gradually\nincreased heat. Pulverize, elutriate, mix with\n•ard or tallow.\nReagents, Chemical. Reagents are\nsubstances which effect a chemical change in\nthe molecule. Only the best quality of chemi-\ncals should be used. Very minute directions\nlor preparing reagents are given in Fresenius,\nbut this list of reagents, with their .proper\nstrengths, is complete) enough for ordinary\nqualitative work. The following are the prin-\ncipal reagents used by the chemist, with the\nproper strength. Distilled water only should\nbe used in making up reagents. For the various\nsynonyms of the chemicals, see the appendix.\nThe alphabetical arrangement is disregarded,\nand the reagents are given in the order in which\nthey should be placed on the laboratory table.\nSulphuric Acid.— Concentrated sp. gr. P843.\nDilute should also be provided. To 5 parts\nwater add 1 part sulphuric acid.\nHydrochloric Acid.— Concentrated sp. gr. 112,\n:2i% acid is the usual reagent strength. Both\nconcentrated and dilute should be provided.\nNitric Acid. Concentrated acid should be\npurchased and diluted to sp. gr. 132, 32# acid.\nAcetic Acid— Sp. gr., 1-04, 30% acid. This acid\nis called the No. 8 of commerce.\n1 mmonia.— Strong, sp. gr., 96. Keep in a\nbottle with a ground glass stopper.\nAmmonium Carbonate.— Dissolve 1 part of\nthe salt in 4 parts by weight of distilled water,\nto which 1 part reagent ammonia has been\nadded.\nAmmonium Chloride.— Dissolve part of the\nsalt in 8 parts water.\nAmmonium Sulphide.— Pur chase of the right\nstrength; it is an article of commerce.\nAmmonium Oxalate.— Dissolve 1 part of the\nsalt in 24 parts water.\nPotassium Hydroxide.— Dissolve 1 part of the\nstick alkali in 20 parts of water.\nSodium Hydroxide.— Use about 1 part to 9\nparts of water.\nPotassium Carbonate.— Dissolve 1 part of the\ndry salt in 10 parts of water.\nPotassium Iodide.— Dissolve 1 part of the dry\nsalt in 20 parts of water.\nPotassium Bichromate.— Dissolve 1 part of the\nsalt in 10 parts of water.\nPoiassium Ferro-cyanide.— Dissolve 1 part of\nthe crystallized salt in 12 parts of water.\nPotassium Sulpho-cyanide.— Dissolve 1 part of\nthe salt in 25 parts of water.\nCalcium Hydroxide.— Slake lime by the addi-\ntion of 6 parts water, after which add 30 parts\nwater and allow to stand, decant the liquid and\nadd 300 parts water to the residue, let the coarser\nparticles subside, then pour the liquid contain-\ning the finely divided lime in suspension into a\nbottle and use the liquid.\nBarium Chloride.— Dissolve 1 part of the salt\nin 10 parts of water.\nMagnesium Sulphate.— Dissolve 1 part of the\nsalt (cryst.) in 10 parts water.\nMercuric Chloride.— Dissolve 1 part of the\ncrystallized salt in 16 parts of water.\nSilver Nitrate.— Dissolve 1 part of the crys-\ntallized salt in 70 parts water. Another au-\nthority says to use 1 part of the salt in 20 parts\nof water. Keep in an orange colored bottle.\nLead acetate.— Dissolve 1 part of the salt in\n10 parts of water, and filter.\nFerric Chloride.— Dissolve 1 part of the iron\nin 15 parts of water.\nAlcohol.— Use 96% alcohol.\nCobaltous Nitrate.— Dissolve part of the salt\nin 10 to 20 parts of water.\nSodium Sulphite.— Dissolve 1 part of the salt\nin 5 parts of water.\nPotassium Cyanide.— Dissolve 1 part of the\nsalt in 3 or 4 parts of water.\nPotassium Chromate.— Dissolve 1 part of tho\nsalt in 10 parts of water.\nPotassium Ferricyanide.— Dissolve 1 part o;.\nthe salt in 12 parts of water; make as. required,\nfor use.\nPotassium Sulphate.— Dissolve 1 pa:. fc of the\nsalt in 12 parts of water.\nPotassium Permanganate.— Dissolve 1 part o_i\nthe salt in 400 or 500 parts of water.\nCarbon Bisulphide.— ~Cse at the same strength\nas purchased.\nEther.— Use same strength as purchased.\nCalcium Sulphate.— Saturated solution.\nCopper Sidphate.— Dissolve 1 part of the salt\nin 10 parts of water.\nCalcium Chloride.— Dissolve 1 part of the salt\nin 8 parts of water.\nSodium Carbonate.— Used largely in blowpipe\nwork. Used as purchased; buy the C. P.\nFerrous Sidphate.— The solution of this salt\ndoes not keep well, so it should be prepared as\nrequired for use, by dissolving 1 part of the\nsalt in 8 parts of water.\nSodium Borate. Used in blowpipe work.\nGet the pure crystallized salt.\nSodium- Ammo nium Phosphate.— This is the\nmicrocosmic salt. It is used in a dry state for\nblowpipe work.\nFerrous Sulphide.— Use as purchased.\nMetallic Zinc— Use the granulated zinc.\nPotassium Chlorate.— Use as purchased.\nStarch Paste is also used extensively. It\nshould be kept in tin or a salt mouth, and only\nmade up as wanted.\nSoap Solution, Clark s. See Soaps. Soap\nSolution.\nPhenol Phthalein. See Phenol Phtha«\nlein Solution.\nRealgar.— Arsenic bisulphide or red sul-\nphide of arsenic. It is easily fused and is deadly\npoison.\nRectification.— A second distillation of a\nfluid for the purpose of rendering it purer.\nRed Lead.- Pb 3 4 or minium.\nRed Pigments. See Pigments.\nReduction.— Reduction is the term applied\n.o a process by which the oxygen is withdrawn\nfrom a metallic oxide, leaving the base in its\noriginal state. This is effected by heating the\noxide with carbon or hydrogen or by expos-\ning it to the action of some other body which","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0501.jp2"},"498":{"fulltext":"Reduction.\n486\nRouges.\nhas a powerful affinity for oxygen. When hy-\ndrogen is employed, the metallic oxide is heat-\ned to redness in a glass or porcelain tube, and\nsubjected to a current of hydrogen gas, which\nabsorbs the oxygen and leaves the metal pure.\nOther agents, as tallow, oil, resin, sugar and\nstarch, are sometimes used for reducing, but\ncarbon and hydrogen are generally employed.\nReduction of Density of Negatives.\nSee Photography.\nRegulus.— Certain metals, such as copper\nand silver, possess a strong affinity for sulphur,\nand may be converted into sulphides by fusion\nwith such bodies as iron pyrites or the sul-\nphates of barium and lime. The sulphide thus\nformed is called a regulus or malt. In a\nsimilar way, nickel and cobalt are converted\ninto arsenides by their combination with arsen-\nic the arsenide is then termed a speise. In\nsmelting ores containing iron, copper, nickel,\narsenic, sulphur, and silica, three products may\nbe obtained nickel, speise copper, regulus\nand iron, slag.\nRemoval of Paint. See Cleansing.\nResins. See also Gums.\nResin, Rlack.— The remains of turpen-\ntine after the oil has been distilled. Rosin o r\ncolophony.\nYellow.— Yellow rosin.\nResin Paper. See Paper.\nResin* Violin Row. See Bow, Vio-\nlin, Resin for.\nRetorts, Cement for. See Cements.\nRetouching. See Photography.\nRetouching. Varnish for. See Varn-\nishes.\nReviver, Riack. Take 2 pt. of vinegar,\nand infuse 1 oz. of iron filings, 1 oz. copperas,\n1 oz. ground logwood, and 3 oz. bruised galls.\nKiel Reviver. Logwood, 4 parts cop-\nperas, y% part water, 40 fl. parts boil for\nhour and strain into tragacanth (pow-\ndered), i\\ part soft soap, 1 part glycerine, 3\nparts; add 1 fl. part methylated spirit, con-\ntaining J4 part salicylic acid oil gaultheriae, 4\nminims add water to make 40 fl. parts.\nRice Water.— Boil whole rice in water for\na few minutes, and then strain the liquid. Its\nprincipal use is in a photographic process,\nnow almost obsolete.\nRipening.— Term used in keramics to de-\nscribe the tempering or rotting of the clay\nbefore manufacture.\nRivets.— The distance apart of the rivets\nused to connect two pieces of metal plate\ntogether is regulated by the rule that the\njoint sectional area of the rivets shall be equal\nto the sectional area of plate left after punch-\ning the rivet holes.— Rank ine.\nRivet Metal. See Alloys.\nRoasting.— Term used in metallurgy to\ndescribe a kind of calcination to which ores are\nsubmitted before their final reduction to the\nmetallic state. Many substances, such as\nwater, arsenic ana sulphur, are driven off.\nRockets. See Pyrotechny.\nRollers, Ink, to Clean.— Rollers should\nnot be washed immediately after use, as they\nwill become dry and skinny, but they may be\nwashed hour before using again. In cleaning\na new roller, a little oil rubbed over it will\nloosen the ink, and it should be scraped clean\nwith the back of a knife it should be cleaned\nthis way for about a week, when lye may be\nused. New rollers are often spoiled by wash-\ning too soon with lye.\n2. To Renew a Hard Roller.— Wash carefully\nwith lye, then apply a thin layer of molasses,\nLet it stand all night, then wash with water.\nand let it hang until dry enough to use.\nRollers, Printers See Printers Rol-\nlers.\nRoman Vitriol.— A name given to cop-\nper sulphate.\nRoofing, Fire Proof.— After the paper\nis put on take coal tar and lime (burnt, but not\nslaked), and boil them together in the propor-\ntion of 15 lb. lime to 100 lb. tar. Put it on hot-\nTo pulverize the lime, sprinkle it with a little\nwater and sift it. To avoid the tar boiling\nover, stir the lime in the boiling tar very slowly.\nThe mixture must always be heated before\nputting on. The lime and tar form a chemical\nconnection, which is fire proof, cannot be\nmelted by sun heat or dissolved by steam or hot\nwater, and makes a smooth, glazed roof.\nRoofs, Composition for.— Take 1 measure of\nfine sand, 2 of sifted wood ashes, and 3 of lime,\nground up with oil. Mix thouroughly, and lay\non with a painter s brush, first a thin coat and\nthen a thick one. This composition is not only\ncheap, but strongly resists fire.\nRoot Reer. SeeReers.\nRope.— A tarred rope is about 34 weaker\nthan untarred white rope. Tarred hemp and\nmanilla ropes are of about equal strength.\nWire rope of the same strength as new hemp\nrope will run on the same sized sheaves;\nbut the greater the diameter of the latter, the\nlonger it will wear. One wire rope will usually\noutlast three hemp ropes. Running wire rope\nneeds no protection; standing rigging should\nbe kept well painted or tarred.\nRopes, to Protect. See Cleansing,\nMildew.\nRosemary, Spirit of.\n1. Rosemary tops -j 2 3\nRectified spirit 5 pt.\nWater 4 pt.\nDigest twenty-four hours, and distill 1 gal.\n2. Take of—\nOil of rosemary (recent) 1*4 oz.\nProof spirit 1 gal.\nDissolve by agitation. Both are in high re-\npute as hair cosmetics; also used to make ex-\ntemporaneous rosemary water and in compound\nperfumes.\nRose Water. See Waters.\nRosin. A name given to resin, either yel-\nlow or black. Another name is colophony.\nRosin, to Rleach. See Bleaching.\nRosin Oil. See Oils.\nRosolio de Turin. See Liquors.\nRouge.— Red Oxide of Iron.— 1. It is pre-\npared as follows: Make a boiling solution of iron\nsulphate, filter it, and add to it a concentrated\nsolution of oxalic acid; this throws down yellow\noxide of iron. Wash the precipitate, and heat\nit while still moist upon an iron plate, over a\ncharcoal fire. At a temperature of 400° F, the\nsalt is decomposed, and brownish red peroxide\nof iron, or rouge, is formed.\n2. The rouge used by machinists, watch-\nmakers and jewelers is a mineral substance.\nIn its preparation crystals of sulphate of iron,,\ncommonly known as copperas, are heated in\niron pots, by which the sulphuric acid is ex-\npelled and the oxide of iron remains. Those\nportions least calcined, when ground, are used\nfor polishing gold and silver. These are of a\nbright crimson color. The darker and more\ncalcined portions are known as crocus, and are\nused for polishing brass and steel. For the\nfinishing process of the specula of telescopes,\nusually made of iron or of steel, crocus is in-\nvaluable; it gives a splendid polish.\n3. Others prefer for the production of rouge\nthe peroxide of iron precipitated by ammonia\nfrom a dilute solution of sulphate of iron,\nwhich is washed, compressed until dry, then","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0502.jp2"},"499":{"fulltext":"Rouges.\n487\nRouges.\nexposed to a low red heat and ground to pow-\nder.\n4. A rouge suitable for fine work may be\nmade by decomposing a solution of sulphate\nof iron with oxalic acid, also in solution; a pre-\ncipitate of oxalate of iron falls, which must be\nwell washed and dried; when gently heated\nthe salt takes fire, leaving an impalpable pow-\nder of oxide of iron.\nRouge, Stick.— Stick rouge as used by the\njewelers is supposed to be made with paraffine\nas a cementing element, as little as will hold\nthe rouge together.\nRouges, Face Paints and Powders.\nSee also Powders and Cosmetics.\nAnalyses of Face Powders of the Market.— By\nW. H. Snow in New Idea.\nSwan Down.— Manufactured by Henry Tet-\nlow.—\nZinc oxide 38*9$\nOrris root 18*35$\nFrench chalk 42*75$\nWright s.— A harmless face powder manu-\nfactured by Alfred Wright, of Rochester,\nN. Y.; claimed by its manufacturer to be\nentirely free from lead or other poisonous\nminerals, and no more hurtful in use than com-\nmon starch. Upon examination it proved\nto be\nFrench chalk 25*48$\nCorn starch 33*73$\nBismuth oxide 0*8$\nCalcium sulphate 40*19$\nS unders Bloom of Ninon.— Saunders pure\nwhite face powder, or Bloom of Ninon, manu-\nfactured by J. T. Saunders, Oxford street, Lon-\ndon; claimed by its manufacturer to be a deli-\ncate preparation tor beautifying the complex-\nion, free from anything which can possibly in-\njure the skin. Each box holds 1 oz. 25 grn.\nWe otter the following formula\nPrecipitated chalk 23*00 parts.\nFrench chalk. 23*76 parts.\nBismuth subcarbonate 6*64 parts.\nZinc oxide 16*60 parts.\nCorn starch 30*00 parts.\nPozzoni s (White).— J. A. Pozzoni s complex-\nion powder, manufactured in St. Louis, Mo.,\nstates on the label that it imparts a brilliant\ntransparency to the skin, removes all pimples,\nfreckles, and discolorations, makes the skin\ndelicately soft, perfectly harmless, containing\nno arsenic or other deadly material. Found\nupon examination to be\nFrench chalk 55*95$\nCalcium carbonate 31*25$\nBismuth oxy-chloride 12*8$\nPalmer s Lily White Tablet for the complex-\nion, prepared only by Solon Palmer, New York.\nExamination proved it to be\nPrecipitated chalk 42*5$\nFrench chalk 57 5$\nPalmer s Invisible was found upon examina-\ntion to be a silicate of alumina magnesia, pot-\nash, and soda, colored with carmine. The nat-\nural silicate is probably French chalk.\n[The foregoing are analyses merely, and are\nnot to be taken as formulae from which the\nvarious preparations may be compounded.\nPerfumes have to be added, and it is not neces-\nsary to adhere rigidly to the quantities given.]\nThe following is a valuable synopsis of the\nprincipal rouges and face paints and pow-\nders:\nAccording to Mierzinsky, these preparations\nare not only in demand for toilet purposes, but\nare also indispensable to the actor and actress.\nThey may be divided into fatty powders,\nfatty paints in sticks, palette paints, and liquid\npaints.\nFor the preparation of all these the following\nare necessary Pure white French chalk, thor-\noughly washed with dilute acetic acid, carbon-\nate of magnesia, oxy-chloride of bismuth, sub-\nnitrate of bismuth, chalk, lead, zinc, and bar-\nium whites, and coloring matters.\nFatty Powders.— These contain as basis pure\nwhite French chalk; in order to temper the\ncharacter of this, it is mixed with magnesia,\nchalk, zinc, or lead white or bismuth. The\nfinest paint is furnished by bismuth white, only\nit possesses the disadvantage in a higher degree\nthan even lead white of turning brown in a\nsulphureted atmosphere. Zinc white has not\nthe same drawback, but it fails in luster and is\nnot so pure a white. The paint is colored red\nwith carmine pink with eosin, and flesh color\nwith a mixture of eosin and aniline orange.\nMostly the red paint is in demand, and it must\nbe matched with the complexion. It should be\nkept both dark and pale. The following mix-\ntures should be kept prepared\n90 parts French chalk with 30 parts carmine.\n110 parts French chalk with 30 parts carmine.\n125 parts French chalk with 25 parts carmine.\nThese can be rubbed up with a few drops of\nfatty oil and perfumed as desired. Coal tar\ncolors must be dissolved before admixture, but\nthe operator must proceed with great care, as\nthe colors are greedily taken up by the French\nchalk.\nFatty Paints in Sticks.— 1. These have wax,\ncacao butter, benzoated oil, or suet, with\nFrench chalk as bases. Sometimes a mixture\nof these may be used, sometimes benzoated suet\nwith cacao butter, sometimes cacao butter\nalone.\nThe following formulas give good results\n2. Take of—\nWhite wax 2 parts.\nOlive oil, or almond oil, or suet. 3 parts.\nFrench chalk 1 part.\nZinc oxide 1 part.\nMix.\n3. Take of\nWhite wax 2 parts.\nOil or benzoated suet 2 parts.\nBismuth white 5 parts.\nMix.\nNo preparation of bismuth can be recom-\nmended.\nThese are colored red, if desired, with an\nammoniacal carmine solution. The proportion\nof 1 part of carmine to 40 parts of base is\nmost approved, and the best method of pro-\ncedure is to dissolve 1 part of carmine in f part\nof strongest ammonia, to mix this solution with\nsix parts of French chalk, and to stir until the\nammonia has evaporated and the mixture be-\ncome dry. This colored chalk is then mixed\nwith a basis made from 13 parts of wax and\n20 of any fixed oil.\nPalette Paints contain the same materials as\nthe powders, rubbed with thin mucilage to a\npaste, and fixed on plates of porcelain with a\nvery thick mucilage. These paints must be\nintensely colored. Cinnabar is frequently used\nfor these paints as under\n4. Take of—\nFrenchchalk 190 grm.\nBest cinnabar 30 grm.\nRub together with six drops of almond oil\nand then with a few drops of tragacanth mu-\ncilage. Not recommended; injurious to health.\nLiquid Paints.— In these the whites or colors\nare suspended.\n5. Eau de Lys.— Take of—\nZinc white 10 parts.\nFrench chalk 10 parts.\nGlycerine 20 parts.\nRose water 1,000 parts.\nMix.\n6. Lait d lris.- Take of—\nBismuth white 10 parts.\nWater 120 parts.\nMix. The water is perfumed with essential","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0503.jp2"},"500":{"fulltext":"Rouges.\noil of orris. Bismuth is a dangerous ingre-\ndient.\n7. Take of—\nEosin 4 parts.\nDistilled water 80 parts.\nGlycerine 20 parts.\nEau de cologne 300 parts.\nSpirit (free from fusel oil) 400 parts.\nDissolve. Allows to stand and filter. Ac-\ncording to desire the proportion of eosin may\nbe increased, or diminished, or modified with\naniline orange.\n8. Take of—\nFinest carmine 20 parts.\nLead white 30 parts.\nFrench chalk 60 parts.\nTincture of benzoin (simple) 5 parts.\nEau de cologne 50 parts.\nRose water... 250 parts.\nMix.\n9. Take of—\nCarmine 4 parts.\nStrongest ammonia 4 parts.\nRose water 500 parts.\nEssence of rose 15 parts.\nThis liquid is principally used to give the\nlips the beautiful cherry red color which is so\nmuch admired.\nLiquid .Rouge.— Several different preparations\narc sold under this name, but the first of those\nfollowing only strictly deserves it.\n1. Dissolve pure rouge (carthamine) in alco-\nhol, and acidulate the solution with acetic acid.\nVery rich.\n2. A solution of carmine in liquor of ammonia,\nor in carbonate of potash water, to be diluted\nfor use. Rich colored.\n3. The red liquid left from the preparation of\ncarmine. Inferior to the preceding.\nSpanish Lady s Rouge. —This is properly\nrouge crepons; but cotton wool which has\nbeen repeatedly wetted with a strong ammo-\nniacal solution of carmine, and dried, is usu-\nally sold for it. Used like rouge crepons.\nRouge de Carmin (fine rouge for theaters).—\nTake of carmine, 2 drm., and commingle it\nwith a little warm water. Again, into a deep\nporcelain plate put 4 oz. finely powdered talc,\nand in the center of this powder make a cavity\nwith the end of the finger, and pour in the car-\nmine mixture, stirring all the while with an\nivory or horn spatula. When the whole is well\nmixed, add 6 drops oil and a solution of gum\ntragacanth, and finish as before directed. The\nfirst shade of this rouge is very deep.\nSecond Shade.— Carmine, 2 drm.; talc, 4^ oz.;\na little less of oil and gum.\nThird Shade.— Carmine, 2 drm.; talc, 5 oz.;\noil, 7 drops; and solution of gum, 15 drops.\nThus proceed for the other degrees of color, by\naugmenting the proportions of gum and oil y%\noz. at each descending shade. Run down as\nlow as ten variations.\nAzure Paste.— Equal parts French chalk and\nultramarine finely sifted. Triturate with gum\ntragacanth into a stiff paste.\nCaution against Bismuth as a Cosmetic.— The\ncontinued use of bismuth white injures the\nskin. It will finally produce paralysis of its\nminute vessels, and will render the skin yellow\nand leather like.\nLiquid Blanc de Perle (for theatrical use).—\nRose or orange flower water, 1 pt.; oxide of\nbismuth, 4 oz. Mixed by long trituration.\nBloom of Roses. Take of\nSoft water (boiling) 1 pt.\nLemon juice (recent, boiling) *4 pt.\nDilute sulphuric acid (Ph. L.) M oz.\nMix, add of—\nDried red rose leaves 3 oz.\nAnd digest, in glass or glazed earthenware,\nwith frequent stirring, for two hours. Then\nstrain off and forcibly squeeze out the liquor\nfrom the leaves with the hands, and pass it\ni Rouges,\nthrough coarse muslin. Next add, and dissolve\nin it, of\nGum arabic (fine pale) 1 oz.\nEsprit de rose J£ fl. drm\nSet it aside (corked) in a cool place for a few\ndays; then decant the clear portion, or filter it\nthrough bibulous paper. Contact with alka-\nlies and metals darkens and spoils its color.\nFace Paint (Brown).— The general principle\nin making such preparations consists in mixing\nthe dry powder, a little darker than the desired\ntint, with some fat, such as petrolatum or lard.\nA formula for a brown face paint is as follows\nTake of—\nBurnt umber 1 part.\nCacao butter 6 parts.\nOil of neroli 5 drops.\nMelt the cacao butter, add the umber, and\nwhile cooling make an intimate mixture, add-\ning the perfume toward the last. Wash it off\nwith vaseline.\nBurnt Cork, for Minstrels.—\nTake best lampblack 1 grn.\nCacao butter 6 grn.\nOil of neroli 5 drops.\nMelt the cacao butter, add the lampblack,\nand while cooling make an intimate mixture,\nadding the perfume toward the last.\nPaint, for Black Eyes.— Bismuth, 2 parts; talc,\n1 part; color with carmine to skin tint. Wash\nthe part with mixture of glycerine, 1 part;\nwater, 5 parts; dry and apply powder.\nNigger Black. Beat finest lampblack into a\nstiff paste with glycerine and apply with a\nsponge; if necessary mix a little water with it\nwhen using. This is far superior to the old\nfashioned burnt cork and beer, which required\na lot of rubbing in, and almost skinned one s\nface to remove. The above can be as easily re-\nmoved as it is applied.\nmute Face and Arms Lotion.—\nZinc oxide J^ oz.\nGlycerine 2 oz.\nRose water 2 oz.\nSuperior to powders. Many of our leading\nactresses use the above.\nTheatrical Face Paints.— The principle is to\nmake a dry powder somewhat darker than the\ndesired tint, and then thoroughly mix this\npowder with some bland oil (as almond oil), or\nsome fat (as perfumed benzoated lard), or some\nperfumed paraffinoid (as petrolatum), in the\nproportions necessary to produce the required\ncolor and consistency. Hager and Torjesen\ngive the following formula?\nWhite.— 1. Oxide of zinc, subnitrate of bis-\nmuth and plumbate of alumina— of each, 1 oz.\nMix and make into a paste with almond oil\n(5 to 6 drm. required) and perfume with 12 min-\nims of peppermint oil, 12 grn. of camphor, and\n1 drm. of ess. bouquet.\n2. Po wd. Venetian talc 300 grm.\nBismuth oxychloride 50 grm.\nCarmine 0*05 grm.\nOil bergamot 10 drops\nOil neroli 2 drops\nBright Red.— Oxide of zinc, subnitrate of\nbismuth and plumbate of alumina— of each, 10\ndrm.; resin, 234 grn., dissolved in 1 drm. of\ness. bouquet oil of peppermint, 12 min-\nims camphor, 12 grn. almond oil, a suffi-\nciency to make a paste. Mix as above.\nDeep Bordeaux Red.— Oxide of zinc, sub-\nnitrate of bismuth, plumbate of alumina— of\neach, 15 drm.; oil of peppermint, 12 minims;\ncamphor. 12 grn. carmine, 30 grn. (dissolved in\n80 minims of solution of ammonia) almond\noil, a sufficiency; ess. bouquet, 1 drm.\nMix.\nRed.—\nPowdered Venetian talc 100 grm.\nCarmine 2*5 grm.\nWater of ammonia 20 grm.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0504.jp2"},"501":{"fulltext":"Rubber.\n489\nRubber.\nDigest the carmine in the water of ammonia\nuntil dissolved, mix the solution with a por-\ntion of the powdered talc, and this with the\nremainder, and dry by exposure to the air.\nSkin Color. Vermilion, 3 drm. tincture of\nsaffron, 2 drm. powdered orris, 5 drm. pre-\ncipitated chalk and oxide of zinc, of each, 20\ndrm.; camphor, 20 grn. oil of peppermint, 20\nminims; ess. bouquet, V/ drm.; almond oil,\na sufficiency. Mix.\nBlack.— 1. Drop black (made by burning-\ncamphor and washing the soot with spirit), 2\ndrm. almond oil, 2 drm. cocoanut oil, 6 drm.\nJViix, perfume and cast into sticks.\n2. Best lampblack t grm.\nCacao butter 6 grm.\nOil neroli 5 drops.\nMelt the cacao butter, add the lampblack,\nand while cooling make an intimate mixture,\n.adding the perfume toward the last.\nNose Paste for Comic Characters.—\nWheat flour 1 oz.\nPulverized tragacanth 2 drm.\nTint with carmine.\nTake as much of the powder as necessary and\nIknead into a stiff paste with a little water and\n.apply to the nose, having previously painted it\nwith spirit gum.\nTo Make Grease Paints.— Take clarified suet\nand mix color required with it and pour into\nround moulds.\nFlesh Tint Use white lead and chalk, equal\nparts, and vermilion to suit. Three tints are\nTequired. Red, use vermilion blue, use ultra-\nmarine; black, use finest drop black; white,\nuse white lead. Perfume with bergamot.\nVeins, Blue for the.— Blue, wherewith to imi-\ntate the veins, is made with exceedingly fine\nlevigated French chalk, sifted through a silk\nsieve, tinted to the proper shade with Prus-\nsian blue, then made into a paste with very\nthin gum water when dry it is put up in pots\nin the same way as rouge. After the complex-\nion has been duly whitened with blanc, the\nveins are indicated with a little of the coloring\napplied with a pencil made of kid leather, the\ninside of the skin being made the outside of\nthe pencil. Artistically used, the effect is\npleasing and natural.\nVinaigre de Fard. Powdered cochineal, 3\ndrm. lake in powder, 3 oz. alcohol, 6 oz. dis-\ntilled lavender vinegar, 1 lb. After ten days,\ninfusion with frequent stirring, decant and\nUlter.\nRubber. Rubber Cement. See Cements.\nRubber, Cement for. See Cements.\nRubber, to Cut or Bore.— Dip the knife or\ncork borer in a solution of strong caustic pot-\nash.\nRubber (Old), to Digest.— Place the material,\ncut in small shreds, in a strong (boiler iron) air\ntight vessel, provided with a good safety valve,\nand introduce into it 4 or 5 parts of bisulphide\nof c rbon for each part (by weight) of rubber.\nClose all the openings, and place the vessel over\na suitable water bath, or, what is better, have\na small steam coil inserted within the boiler.\nHeat for an hour at the boiling point of water.\nT lis will insure the complete solution of the\nrubber. The vapor of the bisulphide is very\ninflammable; aad when mixed with air, it is ex-\nplosive when ignited. For these reasons, as\nfvell as because of the offensive odor of the sol-\nvent, the operation is best conducted in the\nopen air, and with steam heat only.\nDissolving Rubber.— The solution of India\nrubber or gutta percha in chloroform or ben-\nzole, frequently called for in photographic\nwork, is usually attended with so many diffi-\nculties and drawbacks that in nine cases out of\nten, says the British Journal of Photography,\nwhere the solution is required the experiment-\nalist usually purchases it ready made. Yet\nthere need be no difficulty about the matter.\nFirst, pure rtrbber should be obtained. When\nvulcanized, it is perfectly insoluble. Secondly,\npure solvents are necessary. Chloroform con-\ntaining a large excess of alcohol and water will\nfail to act even upon the purest rubber. Again,\nunder the most satisfactory conditions, the\naction is very slow, and the amount of rubber\ncapable of being taken up is proportionately\nvery small. The plan usually adopted is to\nplace a large amount of shredded rubber in a\nbottle, which is then filled up with the solvent,\nand shaken at intervals a few times; and when\nthe shreds do not dissolve like pieces of sugar\nthe whole is thrown aside, and we are written\nto for an explanation of the failure. If a small\nquantity of rubber had been placed in the bot-\ntle, and the liquid added, it would have been\nobserved graduaUy to swell out very considera-\nbly after the lapse of some time, and a mixture\nof the whole would be f acilitated by stirring\nwith a glass rod or a splinter of wood. The\nrapidity with which the rubber absorbs the sol-\nvent will depend upon its condition; but the\naction is never very quick, nor is it in any way\nanalogous to the dissolution of a crystal.\nOne cause of the failure of chloroform to act\nupon the caoutchouc may arise from the pres-\nence of alcohol in too great a proportion.\nChloroform as sold almost always contains al-\ncohol in small quantity, owing to the fact that\nwhen none is present it cannot be prevented\nfrom decomposing spontaneously, more espe-\ncially in the light. It is, however, stated that\nwhen entirely protected from light absolute\nchloroform will not undergo any change.\nA solution of gutta percha in chloroform has\na use which is not generally known. It forms,\nwhen carefully made and filtered quite bright\nthe best possible material for obscuring glass\nfor focusing screens. For fine microscopic\nwork it is said by those whose opinions are of\nweight to be unequaled.\nRubber, to Deodorize.— 1. Place the articles,\ncovered with charcoal dust, in an inclosed\nvessel, let them remain for several hours at a\ntemperature of 94° F. Clean the charcoal dust\nfrom the articles; they will be odorless.\n2. Caustic potash, j^ oz.; water, 1}4 pt.; dis-\nsolve and heat to boiling. Put the goods into\nthis for a few minutes, rinse thoroughly and\ndry.\n3. Both sides of the article should be covered\nwith a thin layer of animal charcoal. Heat for\nthree or four hours from 122° to 140° F.\n4. Equal parts of alcohol, SQ%, and linseed oil,\nshaken together thoroughly. Apply to the\nhose with a cloth. Stretch the hose a little,\nand rub until nearly dry. Repeat 3 or 4 times\nat intervals of several days. This treatment\nrenders the hose gas tight.\nRubber Hose, etc., to Soften. 1. Dip in petro-\nleum, expose to the air, and repeat the opera-\ntion if necessary.\n2. Ammonia, 2 parts; water, 4 parts. Expose\nfor a few minutes.\n3. If very hard, soften with vapor of carbon\nbisulphide, with the further application of\nvapor of kerosene.\nJoining Rubber.— Rubber is easily joined and\nmade as strong as an original fabric, by soften-\ning before a fire, laying the edges caref ully to-\ngether, without dust, dirt, or moisture between.\nThe edges so joined must be freshly cut in the\nbeginning. Tubing can be united by joining\nthe edges around a glass cylinder, which has\npreviously been rolled with paper. After the\nglass is withdrawn the paper is easily removed.\nSift flour or powdered soapstone through the\ntube to prevent the sides from adhering from\naccidental contact.\nRubber, to Fasten to Metal.— This may be done\nby employing a cement which fastens alike well\nto the rubber and to the metal or wood. Such\ncement is prepared by a solution of shellac in\nammonia, best made by soaking pulverized\ngum shellac in ten times its weight of strong 1\nammonia, when a shining mass is obtained,\nwhich in three or four weeks will become","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0505.jp2"},"502":{"fulltext":"Rubber.\n490\nRubber.\nliquid without the use of hot water. This soft-\nens the rubber, and becomes, after volatiliza-\ntion of the ammonia, hard and impermeable to\ngases and fluids.\nRubber, to Prepare for Printing on. Sprinkle\nthe article with farina before vulcanization.\nRubber, to Preserve. 1. Soak in the following:\nammonia, 2 oz.; water, 6 oz. See also Preserv-\ning.\n2. Try kerosene.\n3. Various articles and instruments made of\nrubber are apt, with time, to become dry, to\ncrack, grow brittle, and lose their elasticity.\nDr. Pol recommends the following simple mix-\nture: Ammonia, 1 part; water, 2 parts; in\nwhich the articles should be immersed for a\nlej igth of time, varying from a few minutes to\none-half or one hour, until they resume their\nformer elasticity, smoothness and softness.\n4. Very elastic caoutchouc tubing gradually\nloses some of its elasticity. Later, the tubes\nbreak on stretching, even if previously laid in\nwarm water, and finally they crack if pressed\nbetween the fingers. This change is put down\nto a very slow formation of sulphuric acid by\nthe action of moist air on the sulphur contained\nin the caoutchouc. By frequent washing with\nslightly alkaline water, the action of the acid is\nprevented. Tubes washed five or six times a\nyear remain perfectly elastic.\nRubber, to Soften.— 1. Use the purified gum\nrubber, and soften it by contact with hot water\nor steam, and mould by pressure. Use pow-\ndered soapstone to prevent sticking.\n2. For articles of rubber which have become\nhard and brittle, Dr. Pol s receipt which is\ngiven under Preserving Rubber, will be found\nuseful. English mackintoshes often lose their\nelasticity when brought into our climate, soon\nrendering them of no service. Frequent spong-\ning with water is recommended. If any portion\nof the cloth leaves the rubber, it should be sent\nto a rubber manufacturer, as it is extremely\ndifficult to cement.\n3. Very often a rubber hose will become\nhard, but this hardness can be removed by\ndipping in petroleum and allowing the hose to\nhang up for a couple of days.\nRubber, Solvent for.— This new solvent con-\nsists of a mixture of methylated ether and\npetroleum spirit— the common benzoline used\nfor burning in sponge lamps. This forms the\nmost rapid and, perhaps, the best solvent the\nmixture is as much superior in power to either\nof its constituents singly as the ether-alcohol\nis to plain ether in its action on pyroxylin. A\nvery thick solution can be made by dissolving\n60 grn. of good India rubber in 2 oz. of benzo-\nline and 1 oz. of sulphuric ether. If the India\nrubber be cut up fine and the mixture shaken\noccasionally, the solution will be complete in\ntwo or three hours, when it may be diluted to\nany required strength with benzoline alone.\nThe India rubber should be as light colored as\npossible, and all the outer oxidized portions\nmust be cut away. Shred the clean India\nrubber with a pair of scissors, and throw it at\nonce into the solvent.\nRubber Stamps.— The process of making rub-\nber stamps being very simple, and the mate-\nrials and apparatus for carrying out the pro-\ncess being inexpensive, doubtless many would\nundertake this branch of business if the de-\ntails of manufacture were well known. The\nsecrets of rubber stamp making have always\nbeen carefully guarded, thus practically limit-\ning the business to those who have learned the\ntrade in the regular way. The instructions\ngiven below are based upon the actual practice\nof the best makers, and written after actual\nexperience in the business.\nThe tools required for beginning the busi-\nness are one or more fonts of regular printers\ntype, one or two chases, some printers leads,\nand a small press. The chases are expensive,\nand as the type is only subjected to a moderate\npressure, a cast iron chase may be used instead\nof one made of wrought iron, and even a wood\nchase may be made to answer, but this is not\nrecommended. If a wooden chase is resorted\nto, it should be made from hard wood, such as\noak or cherry, of one and one-half inch bars\ndovetailed together. If ordinary type is used,\nthe chase may be one-half to five-eighths of an\ninch high. In one side and one end should be\ninserted two or more screws for clamping the\ntype in the chase. Some printers wooden\nfurniture will be needed for filling in the chas\naround the type; leads also are used for this\npurpose and for spacing between the lines. In\neach corner of the chase a short three-eighths\ninch iron rod is inserted. These rods form a\nguide for the matrix plate, which is perforated\nto receive them, and between the matrix plate\nand the rods are placed short spiral springs, as\nshown in the engraving. These springs are\ndesigned to prevent the composition, of which\nthe mould is formed, from coming into con-\ntract with the type before the screw of the\npress is applied. The iron matrix plate is of\nthe same size as the chase, and is provided with\ntwo longitudinal ribs. The under surface of\nthe plate, including the ribs, should be planed.\nThe rods which form the guides for the matrix\nplate must project from the chase at right an-\ngles, and must be well fitted to the holes in the\nplate. The ribs of the matrix plate are one-\neighth of an inch high.\nType setting is somewhat difficult for an\namateur, but a little practice will soon give\nproficiency. The type, when set, reads back-\nward, so that if it is desirable to see how the\ntype will appear, a piece of print may be held\nto the light and viewed from the back side.\nWhen the form is made up it is placed in the\nchase and centered by means of the wooden\nfurniture and leads, the leads being placed next\nto and between the rows of type. The form\nshould be made up on a flat surface, such as a\nslab of marble or a level hard wood plank. As\nsoon as the form is locked by means of the\nscrews, the type is planed by laying over it two\nor three thicknesses of paper, placing on these\na smooth flat block, and tapping the block with\na mallet. As soon as the surface of the type is\nleveled, the screws in the chase are again tight-\nened, and the form is ready to receive the im-\npression.\nThe type is now ready to receive the compo-\nsition of which the mould is formed. The fol-\nlowing is considered the best and most reliable\nformula for this composition Finely powdered\nsoapstone, 1 lb. 3 oz.; best dental plaster, 1 lb.;\nfine powdered China clay (kaolin), 1 lb. These\nmaterials are mixed dry, and sifted through a\nsieve having a fine mesh. A quantity of the\ncomposition sufficient to form the mould is\nplaced in a suitable vessel, and mixed with a so-\nlution formed by dissolving 5 oz. of dextrine in","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0506.jp2"},"503":{"fulltext":"Rubber.\n491\nRust.\n1 qt. of hot water. This is to be used cold, and\ncan be prepared in advance. Enough of the\ndextrine solution is added to the composition\nto make a thick dough a little stiff er than\nputty. It should be thoroughly but very\nquickly mixed and kneaded, and should be\nsmooth and free from lumps. It is to be spread\nout upon the matrix plate so as to nearly cover\nthe entire space between the longitudinal ribs\nthen by means of a brass edged ruler, a straight\niron bar, or even a table knife, the top of the\ncomposition is smoothed and made level, em-\nploying the longitudinal ribs of the matrix\nplate as guides.\nWhen the composition is level with the longi-\ntudinal ribs and perfectly smooth, the type is\nwell moistened with benzine, and the matrix\nplate bearing the coating of composition is\nplaced over the top of the form, the rods before\nalluded to forming the guides for the plate,\nand the plate is allowed to rest upon\nthe springs. Then the form, together with\nthe matrix, supported above the type in\nthe manner described, is put in the press,\nand sufficient pressure is applied to carry\nthe matrix plate down so as to cause the com-\nposition to take a perfect impression of the\ntype. The pressure is relieved, and the matrix\nplate is then removed and allowed to stand for\nabout three minutes, when it is again put on\nthe form above the type, in the manner before\ndescribed, and then placed a second time in the\npress and again subjected to pressure, this time\nusing a little more force. The distance to\nwhich the type penetrates the composition can\nbe regulated by the printers leads.\nThe press used may be purchased from one\nof the rubber stamp supply houses, or an ordin-\nary letter press may be brought into use, but\nit is absolutely essential that the plates of the\npress be parallel. Presses which will answer\nevery purpose can be frequently picked up at\nthe junk shops for a mere trifle. Many sub-\nstitutes for a press will suggest themselves, but\nin this, as in anything else, whatever is worth\ndoing is Avorth doing well; therefore it is ad-\nvantageous to procure the best tools and ap-\npliances on the start.\nIn any event the press must be capable of\nstanding a heat of 250? F. without warping.\nWhen the matrix is removed from the type\nthe mould should be glossy in every part, and\neach letter should be clear cut and sharp. Small\nperforations are now made in the matrix, care\nbeing taken to not make them too near the im-\npressions of the type. These are for vents for\nthe escape of moisture. The plate is now heat-\ned in an oven for about an hour and a half.\nThe mould is sometimes apt to crack, but this\nis generally due to too nmch heat or to a lack\nof homogeneity in the composition. When the\nmould is thoroughly dry its face is smoothed\nwith fine sandpaper, and the dust is blown\nfrom the letters by means of a bellows.\nThe rubber used in making stamps is es-\npecially prepared by manufacturers for this\npurpose. It is pure unvulcanized rubber pre-\npared in a special way for vulcanization.\nMuch of the trouble of amateurs in making\nrubber stamps arises from the use of vulcan-\nized rubber, or of a wrong composition or\nthickness. The material should be obtained\nfrom reliable dealers in rubber stamp materials\nor from the rubber manufacturers who make\na specialty of it. It is purchased in sheets\nwhich are readily cut to the required size; they\nshould be a little larger than the impression of\nthe type.\nTo prevent the adhesion of the rubber to the\nmould, before the rubber is applied it is thor-\noughly covered with powdered soapstone, the\nsurplus being rubbed off. The press is heated\nto about 220° F., the temperature being regu-\nlated usually by a thermometer attachecU4©=the-\npress, but this may be dispensed with by ex-\nercising due care in the process of vulcaniza-\ntion. A pair of Bunsen burners afford a ready\nmeans of securing an even and well regulated\ntemperature.\nIt is well to make a few small stamps first, to\nsee that everything is working right. The\nrubber is pressed on the matrix; a piece of\nsheet tin is placed over the rubber; the mould,\nwith the applied rubber, is placed in the warm\npress, and pressure is gradually applied, thus\nforcing the rubber into every part of the im-\npression. The time required for vulcanization\nwith a warm press is from three to five min-\nutes; sometimes the time is extended to ten\nminutes if the press is not sufficiently warm.\nIf the press is overheated, the rubber will be\nburnt. This is mainly a matter of experience,\nand can be learned only by actual practice.\nWhen the rubber is nearly vulcanized, it has a\nbluish shade, and if it is pricked with a needle\nor awl, if the rubber is vulcanized no mark\nwill be left on the removal of the needle; but\nif it is only semi-vulcanized, the needle will\nleave a perforation. By occasionally pricking\nthe rubber, the time of exposure to the heat\nmay be roughly determined. A second im-\npression from the mould requires about double\nthe time. When the rubber is vulcanized it is\nremoved from the matrix by an even pull, and\na sheet of stamps thus formed is immediately\nrubbed with powdered soapstone applied by\nmeans of a brush. The different stamps are\nthen cut apart with scissors and mounted on a\nhandle by means of shellac varnish.\nA good ink for rubber stamps is made by\nusing 1 oz. of methyl violet (extra 3 B) in 1 qt.\nof hot glycerine. For the pad, use a piece of\nfelt or cloth saturated with the ink and covered,\nwith a piece of silk.\nRubber Stamps, Ink for. See Inks.\nRubber Tubing.— Hose, etc., to soften.— Draw\nthrough petroleum and hang up to dry.\nRubber, Varnish for. See Varnishes.\nRubber, to Vulcanize.— Parkes method is now\nsometimes adopted. The caoutchouc is im-\nmersed in a mixture of 30 parts of bisulphide\nof carbon and 1 part of chloride of sulphur. It\nis next placed in a room heated to 70° Fah., and\nwhen all the sulphide of carbon has been vola-\ntilized, the process is so far complete that\nit is only requisite to boil the material in a solu-\ntion of about 18 oz. of caustic potassa to 2 gal. of\nwater, the vulcanized caoutchouc being next\nwashed to remove excess of alkali. See also\nRubber Stamp making above.\nRupert s Drops. See Glass.\nRuling Ink. See Inks.\nRusset Shoes, Dressing for. See Shoes.\nTan Dressing for.\nRust. See also Incrustations.\nFirst come receipts for rust preventives,\nthen receipts for rust on iron and steel, fol-\nlowed by the removal of rust and miscellaneous\nrust receipts.\nRust Preventives. The following recipes\nare recommended for preventing rust on iron\nand steel surfaces. Mechanics 1 Own Book.\n1. Caoutchouc oil is said to have proved effi-\ncient in preventing rust, and to have been\nadopted by the German army. It only requires\nto be spread with a piece of flannel in a very\nthin layer over the metallic surface and al-\nlowed to dry up. Such a coating will afford\nsecurity against all atmospheric influences and\nwill not show any cracks under the microscope\nafter a year s standing. To remove it, the ar-\nticle has simply to be treated with caoutchouc\noil again, and washed after twelve to twenty-\nfour hours.\n2. A solution of India rubber in benzine has\nbeen used for years as a coating for steel, iron\nand lead, and has been found a simple means\nof keeping them from oxidizing. It can be\neasily applied with a brush and is as easily\nrubbed off. It should be made about the con-\nsistency of cream.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0507.jp2"},"504":{"fulltext":"Rust.\n492\nRust.\n3. All steel articles can be perfectly preserved\nfrom rust by putting a lump of freshly burnt\nlime in the drawer or case in which they are\nkept. If the thing s are to be moved (as a gun\nin its case, for instance), put the lime in a mus-\nlin bag. This is especially valuable for speci-\nmens of iron when fractured, for in a mode-\nrately dry place the lime will not want renew-\ning for many years, as it is capable of absorbing\na large quantity of moisture. Articles in use\nshould be placed in a box nearly filled with\nttioroughly pulverized slaked lime. Before\nusing them rub well with a woolen cloth.\n4. The following mixture forms an excellent\nbrown coating for protecting iron and steel\nfrom rust: Dissolve 2 parts crystallized iron\nchloride, 2 parts antimony chloride and 1 part\ntannin, in 4 parts water and apply with a sponge\nor rag and let dry. Then another coat of the\npaint is applied, and again another, if neces-\nsary, until the color becomes as dark as desired.\nWhen dry, it is washed with water, allowed to\ndry again, and the surface polished with boiled\nlinseed oil. The antimony chloride must be as\nnearly neutral as possible.\n5. To keep tools from rusting, take y% oz.\ncamphor, dissolve in 1 lb. melted lard; take off\nthe scum and mix in as much fine black lead\n(graphite) as will give it an iron color. Clean\nthe tools and smear with this mixture. After\ntwenty-four hours rub clean with a soft linen\ncloth. The tools will keep clean for months\nunder ordinary circumstances.\n6. Put about 1 qt. fresh slaked lime, lb.\nwashing soda, y% lb. soft soap in a bucket; add\nsufficient water to cover the articles; put in\nthe tools as soon as possible after use, and wipe\nthem up next morning, or let them remain\nuntil wanted.\n7. Soft soap, with about half its weight\nof pearlash; 1 oz. of the mixture in about 1\ngal. boiling water. This is in every day use in\nmost engineers shops in the drip cans used for\nturning long articles bright in wrought iron\nand steel. The work, though constantly moist,\ndoes not rust, and bright nuts are immersed\nin it for days till wanted, and retain their\npolish.\n8. Melt slowly together 6 or 8 oz. lard to 1 oz.\nrosin, stirring till cool; when it is semi-fluid, it\nis ready for use. If too thick, it may be fur-\nther let down by coal oil or benzine. Rubbed\non bright surfaces ever so thinly, it preserves\nthe polish effectually, and may be readily\nrubbed off.\n9. To protect metals from oxidation— polished\niron or steel, for instance the requisite is to\nexclude air and moisture from the actual me-\ntallic surface; wherefore, polished tools are\nusually kept in wrappings of oiled cloth and\nbrown paper; and, thus protected, they will\npreserve a spotless face for an unlimited time.\nWhen these metals come to be of necessity ex-\nposed, in being converted to use, it is necessary\nto protect them by means of some permanent\ndressing; and boiled linseed oil, which forms a\nlasting film of covering as it dries on, is one of\nthe best preservatives, if not the best. But in\norder to give it body, it should be thickened\nby the addition of some pigment, and the very\nbest— because the most congenial of pigments\nis the ground oxide of the same metal— or, in\nplain words, rusted iron reduced to an impal-\npable powder, for the dressing of iron or steel\nwhich thus forms the pigment of red oxide\npaint.\n10. Slake a piece of quicklime with just water\nenough to cause it to crumble, in a covered\npot, and while hot add tallow to it and work\ninto a paste and use this to cover over bright\nwork; it can be easily wiped off.\n11. Olmstead s varnish is made by melting 2\noz. rosin in 1 lb. fresh sweet lard, melting the\nrosin first and then adding the lard and mixing\nthoroughly. This is applied to the metal,\nwhich should be warm if possible and perfectly\ncleaned; it is afterward rubbed off. This has\nbeen well proved and tested for many years\nand is particularly well suited for planished\nand Russian iron surfaces, which a slight rust\nis apt to injure very seriously.\n12. Use f erroline or white zaf on lacquer.\nRust Removers. -1. Cover the metal with sweet\noil well rubbed in and allow to stand for forty-\neight hours; smear with oil applied freely with\na feather or piece of cotton wool, after rubbing\nthe steel. Then rub with unslaked lime re-\nduced to as fine a powder as possible.\n2. Immerse the article to be cleaned for a few\nminutes until all dirt and rust is taken off, in\na strong solution of potassium cyanide, say\nabout y% oz. in a wineglassful of water: take\nout and clean it with a tooth brush with some\npaste composed of potassium cyanide, Castile\nsoap, whiting and water, mixed into a paste of\nabout the consistence of thick cream.\nIron and Steel, to Prevent the Rusting of.—\n1. Mix whiting and linseed oil together to form a\npaste. Put a coat on the iron. It is easily re-\nmoved, and will prevent rusting.\n2. Thick lubricating petroleum, or solid par-\naffin applied to the slightly warmed iron, is one\nof the best preservatives; in some cases a\ntransparent varnish of copal or shellac is pre-\nferable. The main point is to clean the iron\nproperly bef ore the application from all traces\nof rust, by means of brushing and a mineral\nacid, to wash it well, and to neutralize all re-\nmaining traces of acid, with potash lye, or with\nlime or some other alkali; then clean and dry\nthoroughly, and apply your oil, paraffin or\nvarnish.\n3. Boiled linseed oil will keen polished tools\nfrom rusting if it is allowed to dry on\nthem. Common sperm oil will prevent them\nfrom rusting for a short period. A coat of\ncopal varnish is frequently applied to polished\ntools exposed to the weather. Woolen ma-\nterials are the best for wrappers for metals.\n4. Iron and steel goods of all descriptions are\nkept free from rust by the following:\nDissolve oz. of camphor in 1 lb. of hog s\nlard, take off the scum, and mix as much black\nlead as will give the mixture an iron color.\nIron and steel and machinery of all kinds,\nrubbed over with this mixture, and left with it\non for twenty-four hours, and then rubbed\nwith a linen cloth, will keep clean for months.\nIf the machinery is for exportation, it should be\nkept thickly coated with this during the\nvoyage.\n5. Antimony chloride, 9 parts; crystallized\niron chloride, 9 parts 4^ parts tannin in 18\nparts water. Apply with a sponge or rag, let\nit dry, apply again if necessary, This mixture\nforms a brown coating on the article. When\ndry, wash with water let it dry, then polish\nwith boiling linseed oil.\n6. A compound of grease and zinc filings is\nfound to be an excellent preventative against\nrust for iron bolts inserted in wood. It is used\nto line the bolt hole.\n7. A correspondent sends us the following\nsuggestions I have tried many things, but\nfound nothing better than boiled linseed oil to\nprotect instruments and tools (files, saws, guns,\netc.) from rusting. It even works best with a\nkettle used for heating water for bathing.\nWipe the metal with a cloth dipped in the oil,\nand let it dry, which will require only a few\nminutes. If it is unnecessary to have the iron\nbright and shining, you need not scour it before\nthe application of the oil; this will combine\nwith the rust and form a firm, durable coating.\n8. Rub over with a mixture of tallow or lard\nand thick white lead paint.\n9. To keep iron goods of any kind, and espec-\nially those parts of machines which are made\nof steel or iron, from rusting, take oz. of\npowdered camphor and melt it before the fire\nin 1 lb. of good lard. To give it a dark color,\nadd as much fine black lead as is necessary to\nproduce the desired effect. Clean the ironwork\nand smear it over with this preparation. After","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0508.jp2"},"505":{"fulltext":"Rust,\n493\nSafety.\nthis it should be allowed to remain untouched\nfor twenty-tour hours, when the grease should\nbe removed by wiping the ironwork with a soft\ncloth.\n10. Vaseline is an excellent preservative. Buy\nby the can and apply with a brush.\nRusting, to Prevent Iron from, Underground.—\nCottonseed or linseed oils, 1 lb.; coal tar, 1 lb.;\nsulphur, 1 lb.; heat separately mix thoroughly\nand heat to 300° F. for about one hour, at the\nend of which it becomes pasty. Heat the metal\nto which it is applied.\nFor Preserving the Polish on Bright Surfaces.—\n1. Take 234 oz. resin; from 15 to 20 oz. lard.\nMelt slowly together, stirring until cool. The\nmixture is used when semi-fluid. It may be\nthinned by coal oil or benzine. Put on a\nbright surfaces, even thinly it will preserve\nthe polish, and it can be readily rubbed off.\n2. Gutta percha, 8 lb.; mutton suet, 16 lb.;\nbeef suet, 24 lb.; neatsfoot oil, 1]4 gal.; rape\noil, gal. Melt, and dissolve thoroughly; col-\nor with a little rose pink add oil of thyme\nor other perfume. When cold, rub on the\nsurface of bright steel, iron, brass, or other\nmetal requiring protection from rust.\nScrews, Prevention of Rust ing-in of .—Dip the\nscrews in a thin paste, made of graphite and\noil, before screwing them in place.\nSteel Wire, to Protect from Rust.— Try the fol-\nlowing Dissolve y% oz. camphor in 2 oz. 90$ alco-\nhol, and mix this with 2 pt. fine sperm oil. Al-\nlow the wire to remain in contact with this\nmixture, heated to 180° F., for half an hour\nthen rub off excess with a soft cotton cloth.\nTo Keep Small Steel Instruments from Rust-\ning.— I. Clean frequently; after using clean\nwith dry chamois leather and wipe off with an\noiled rag.\n2. For this purpose the Lancet confidently\nrecommends a mixture of equal parts of car-\nbolic acid and olive oil, smeared over the sur-\nface of the instruments. This plan is much\nused by medical officers in the navy, and is\nfound to preserve the polish and brightness of\nthe steel, however moist and warm the climate\nmay be.\nStoves from Rusting, to Prevent.— Apply kero-\nsene with a cloth. This will prevent stoves\nfrom rusting during the summer. Also an ex-\ncellent material to apply to all iron tools used\nabout a farm.\nTools from Rusting, to Keep.— Put J4 lb. of\nsoft soap in a pail, and add 1 pt. freshly slaked\nlime; sufficient water to cover the articles.\nPlace the tools in this mixture as soon as possi-\nble after they are used. Wipe them the next\nmorning.\nApparatus for Coating Laboratory Tools.\nMetallic tools and other articles, particularly\nthose consisting of iron or steel, which are used\nin laboratories or other Avorkshops where acid\nvapors are of frequent occurrence, may be pro-\ntected from rust with a black shining coat,\nwhich resists acids and is but little affected even\nby a low red heat, in the following manner.\nHave a sheet iron box large enough to hold all\nthe tools, etc., to be coated, and provided with\na false bottom of wire netting. Underneath\nthis is placed a layer of crushed coal (black-\nsmith s coal), about 1 centimeter deep; then\nplace the tools, which must be entirely free\nfrom rust, clean and polished, upon the wire\nnet. The box is then covered and set on a\nstrong fire, which causes the coal to give off\ntarry constituents, and the heat continued un-\ntil the bottom of the box is at a red heat. V\\ hen\nall evolution of gas has ceased,the box is allow-\ned to become cold, and the tools are taken out,\nand will be found covered with a beautiful\nglossy coat. Tongs, shears, pincers, etc., so\ncoated, keep in good condition for months,\neven in places where the air is constantly mixed\nwith acid vapors.— Dr. Arendt.\nRust, to Remove.— Iron articles thickly coated\nwith rust may be cleaned by allowing them to\nremain in a nearly saturated solution of chlo-\nride of tin, from 12 to 14 hours.\n2. Extracting Rust from Steel.— Immei se the\narticle to be cleaned for a few minutes until all\ndirt and rust is taken off in a strong solution\nof cyanide of potassium, say about oz. in a\nwineglassful of water; take out and clean it\nwith a toothbrush, with some paste composed\nof cyanide of potassium, Castile soap, whiten-\neng and water; these last are mixed in a paste\nabout the consistence of thick cream.\n3. To remove rust from small hollow castings,\ndip in dilute sulphuric acid (1 part commercial\nacid to 10 of water). Wash in hot lime water\nand dry in a tumbler in di*y sawdust.\n4. Immerse the articles in kerosene oil; allow\nthem to remain for some time. This will loosen\nthe rust so it will come off easily.\n5. To remove rust from steel, cover the metal\nwith sweet oil well rubbed in; forty-eight\nhours after rub with finely pulverized unslaked\nlime.\nA nti-Rust.— Camphor, oz.; dissolve in\nmelted lard, 1 lb.; take off the scum and mix\nin as much black lead as will give it an iron\ncolor; clean machinery, and smear with com-\npound; after twenty-four hours remove with\nsoft linen cloth.\nBarjfs Process.— A patented process employed\nfor the protection of the surfaces of iron from\nrust, effected by artificially coating them with\na film of magnetic oxide. The iron is first\nheated to redness and steam passed over it.\nThe iron decomposes the steam, liberating\noxygen, which latter immediately attacks the\niron, forming magnetic or black oxide, Fe 3 4\nDrawing Instruments, Removing Rust from.\n1. Use fine emery paper and crocus cloth.\n2. Mix 10 parts of tin putty. 8 of prepared\nbuck s horn and 25 of 90$ alcohol to a paste.\nCleanse the articles with this, and finally rub\nwith soft blotting paper.\nGrease for Anointing Gum Barrels,to Prevent\nRust. Make an ointment of corrosive subli-\nmate and lard. It is said that this will protect\ngun barrels from rust, on the seashore.\nNickel Plated Articles, to Remove the Rust\nfrom. Cover the stains with oil or grease for-\na few days and then remove the rust by rub-\nbing with a little ammonia. If this does not re-\nmove the rust, try very dilute hydrochloric\nacid. When dry polish with tripoli or whit-\ning.\nRust Cement. See Cements.\nSachet Powders. See Powders.\nSack.— (From sec, dry.) A wine used by our\nancestors, supposed by some to have been\nRhenish or canaiy, but, with more probability,\nby others to have been dry mountain or vin\nd Espagne, vin sec; (Howell, Fr. and Eng.\nDiet., 1650.) Falstaff calls it sherris sack,\n(sherry sack), from Xeres, a sea town of Cor-\nduba, where that kind of sack (wine) is made.\nBlount.\nSaddening. Making a color darker by\nmeans of a salt of iron.\nSafes, Filling for Fireproof. Plaster\nof Paris or alum, being non-conductors of heat,\nis recommended as a filling.\nSafety Matches. See Matches.\nw-\nSafety Valve.— Formulas for Computing thr\nElements of Safety Valve—","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0509.jp2"},"506":{"fulltext":"Sage. 494\nLet W=the weight.\nL= distance between center of weight and\nfulcrum in inches.\nw= weight of lever in pounds.\nq— distance between center of gravity of\nlever and fulcrum in inches.\n1= distance between center of valve and\nfulcrum in inches.\nV= weight of valve and spindle.\nA=area of valve in square inches.\nP= pressure at which the valve is to blow\noff, per square inch.\nThen the weight required to balance a given\nSressure at any given distance on the lever will\ne by the formula\nSalts.\nI\nW=|(PxA)-(v+ -^)}x^\nWhen the weight is at hand and known, and\nthe distance is required, then\nL={(PXA)-(V ^X£\nW\nThe elements between the brackets to be com-\nputed first. To obtain the area of the valve,\nmultiply the square of the diameter by 0*7854.\nSage Tea.— Take-\nDried leaves of sage y% oz.\nBoiling water 1 qt.\nInfuse for half an hour, and then strain.\nSugar and lemon juice may be added in the\nproportion required by the patient. In the\nsame manner may be made balm and other\nteas.\nThese infusions form very agreeable and use-\nful drinks in fever, and their diaphoretic pow-\ners may be increased by the additon of the\nsweet spirits of niter or antimonial wine.\nSalad. Dressing.— See also Mayonnaise.—\nThis is excellent both for salad and for sliced\ntomatoes in summer. Take the yelk of 1 fresh\negg and mix it with 2 tablespoonf uls of olive\noil very slowly, add 1]4 spoonfuls of mustard,\n3 spoonfuls of salt, a little pepper, and last of\n•all, 2 spoonfuls of vinegar. Beat the white of\nthe egg to a stiff froth, and lightly stir in.\nSalicylic Acid.— 1. Meat, poultry and game\nin hot weather— although apparently quite\nfresh, often prove to be slightly tainted and of\nbad smell. Such condition can be entirely reme-\ndied, either by watering and washing the meat,\n-etc., in a lukewarm solution of salicylic acid (3\nto 4 teaspoonfuls of the acid to 1 quart of\nwater), or by adding a small pinch of the dry\nacid during cooking, in the case of boiling the\nmeat. To protect meat, etc., for several days\nagainst becoming high or tainted Place it for\n20 or 30 minutes into an aqueous solution of 8\ndrm. of acid (10 teaspoonfuls) to 1 gallon of\nwater.\n2. Rub the surface of the meat, etc., with\ndry salicylic acid, particularly about the\nbony and fatty parts, the meat to be cleaned\nbefore cooking. Although the raw meat treat-\ned with the acid turns slightly pale on the\nsurface, the interior does not undergo any\nchange whatever. Meat treated with the acid\nrequires less cooking to render it tender.\n3. Fish can also be preserved in a similar\nnanner.\n4. Pure Milk.— A third of a teaspoonf ul (or, if\nthe temperature be high, a little more) of the\nsolid acid per quart delays the curdling of the\nmilk for 36 hours without interfering with its\nyielding cream.\n5. Butter washed with an aqueous solution\n(4 drm.= 5 teaspoonfuls of acid to a gallon of\nwater), or kept in it or wrapped in cloths\nsoaked in this water, keeps fresh for a very long\ntime. Butter already rancid can be improved\nby a thorough washing and kneading with a\nstronger solution (8 drm. 10 teaspoonfuls of\nacid per gallon of tepid water), followed by\nwashing in pure cold water. The bad smell\noften arising in salted butter is entirely pre-\nvented by such an admixture of the acid.\n6. Jams of all kinds, jellies, juice, pickles,\netc., treated in the usual way, but with the ad-\ndition of about ldrm. (or 1 teaspoonf ul) of acid\nto 4 pounds, will keep sound with absolute cer-\ntainty for an indefinite time, fermentation and\nspoiling being thus averted. Under exception-\nally unfavorable circumstances, such as hot\npantries, a little dry acid must, besides, be\nsprinkled on the surface underneath the cover\nof the vessel or pot.\n7. Beer. An addition of ]4 oz. (10 teaspoonfuls)\nto about 36 gallons of beer will keep it from\nturning sour.\n8. Wine.— One-quarter oz. (5 teaspoonfuls) to\nabout 36 gallons of wine— say a pinch per bottle\n—will prevent deterioration.\n9. New-laid eggs can be kept unaltered for a\nlong time by being placed for half an hour into\na cold saturated aqueous solution (8 teaspoon-\nfuls of the acid to a gallon of water), then al-\nlowed to dry in the air, and, as usual, stored in\nan airy, cool, and dry place.\n10. Cheese, washed with the solution and\ndried, will not turn mouldy and gray on the\noutside. Vessels, corks, etc., are very well\ncleaned and disinfected by being washed with\nan aqueous solution of the acid. This deserves\nspecial notice. Caution.— By any contact with\nmetal, especially with iron, the salicylic acid\nwill turn violet.\nSalts,\nsom.\nSee also Cheltenham and Ep-\nIAst of Names given in the Older Language of\nChemistry to Various Compounds.\nOld Name.\nSalt (ammoniacal, fixed)\n(ammoniacal, se-\ncret) of Glauber\n(arsenical, neutral)\nof Alacqueer\n(bitter, cathartic)...\n(common)\n(digestive)of Sylvius\n(diuretic)\n(Epsom?\n(febrifuge) of Syl-\nvius\n(fusible)\n(f usi bl e) of urine\n(Glauber s)\n(marine)\n(marine, argilla-\nceous)\n(microcosmic)\n(nitrous ammonia-\ncal)\nof amber\nof benzoin\nof canal\nof colcothar\nof egra\nof lemons (essential)\nof saturn\nofseidlitz\nof seignette\nof soda\nof sorrel\nof tartar\nof vitriol\nof wisdom\n(perlate)\n(polychrest of Gla-\nser)\n(sedative)\n(spirit of)\n(su 1 p h u r e o u s) of\nStahl\n(wonderful)\n(wonderful, perlate)\nModern Name.\nCalcium chloride.\nAmmonium sulphate.\nPotassium hydrogen ar-\nsenate.\nMagnesium sulphate.\nSodium chloride.\nPotassium acetate.\nPotassium acetate.\nMagnesium sulphate.\nPotassium chloride.\nAmmonium phosphate.\nSodium ammonium\nphosphate.\nSodium sulphate.\nSodium chloride.\nAluminum chloride.\nSodium ammonium\nphosphate.\nAmmonium nitrate.\nSuccinic acid.\nBenzoic acid.\nMagnesium sulphate.\nFerrosum sulphate.\nMagnesium sulphate.\nPotassium hydrogen ox-\nalate.\nLead acetate.*\nMagnesium sulphate.\nSodium potassium tar-\ntrate.\nSodium carbonate.\nPotassium hydrogen ox-\nalate, i\nPotassium carbonate.\nZinc sulphate.\nAmmonio mercury chlo-\nride.\nDisodium phosphate.\nPotassium sulphate.\nBoric acid.\nHydrochloric acid.\nPotassium sulphite.\nSodium sulphate.\nDisodium phosphate.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0510.jp2"},"507":{"fulltext":"Salves.\n495\nSalves.\nCalcareous Salts. Temperatures at which\nthey are deposited. The temperatures at\nwhich calcareous matters are precipitated in\nboiler waters are as follows\nCarbonates of lime, between 176° and 248° F.\nSulphates of lime, between 284° and 424° F.\nChlorides of magnesium, be-\ntween 212° and 25 1 F.\nChlorides of sodium, between... 324° and 364° F.\nIn order to free water from these salts, it\nmust consequently be heated to the above tem-\nperatures.\nSalt, Pink (Double Chloride of Tin and Am-\nmonium).— This salt is a compound of bichlo-\nride of tin (perchloride) and sal ammoniac, or\nchloride of ammonium. It contains when pure,\n70 parts bichloride of tin to 30 parts sal ammo-\nniac. It is soluble in three times its weight of\nwater at 60° F. If boiled in a state of concen-\ntrated solution, it is not decomposed; but if\ndilute, the whole of the tin is deposited in the\nform of flakes of oxide. It is very valuable as\na solvent for organic coloring matters, and is\nused both in printing and dyeing.\nSalts, Preston. Composed of ammonium chlo-\nride and freshly slaked lime. When the bottles\nare filled with this compound, rammed in very\nhard, a drop or two of very cheap otto is\npoured in the top before corking.\nEau de Luce.— Tincture of benzoin, or tinc-\nture of balsam of Peru, 1 oz.; Otto of lavender,\n10 drops oil of amber, 5 drops ammonia, 2 oz.\nSalts, Smelling.—\n1. Carbonate of ammonia (crushed\nsmall) 1 lb.\nOil of lavender (Mitcham) 1 fi. oz.\nOil of bergamot. 1 fl. oz.\nOil of cloves 2 fl. drm.\nOil of cassia 1 fl. drm.\nRub them thoroughly together, sublime at a\nvery gentle heat, into a well cooled receiver,\nand at once put the product into a well stop-\npered bottle, or bottles. The sublimation may\nbe omitted, but the quality of the product suf-\nfers. This is varied, in some samples, by sub-\nstituting 1 oz. of oil of lemon, or a little of the\noils of rosemary and sweet flag (calamus aro-\nmaticus), for the oils of cloves and cassia or\nby adding (after sublimation) a dash (2 or 3\ndi ops per bottle) of essence of musk or essence\nroyale.\n2. As before, but taking, as perfume-\nOil of bergamot 2 fl. oz.\nOil of verbena y% fl. oz.\nOtto of roses 1 to 2 drm.\nIt is varied as No. 1.\n3. As No. 1, but using—\nOil of bergamot %fl. oz.\nOil of lemon fl. oz.\nEssence de petit grain 3 fl. drm.\nOil of cloves 1 fl. drm.\nOil of cassia 1 fl. drm.\nVaried, as bef ore, at will.\nInexhaustible Salts.— Liquid ammonia, 1 pt.;\notto of rosemary, 1 drm.; otto English laven-\nder, 1 drm.; otto of bergamot, drm.; otto of\ncloves, y% drm. Mix the whole together with\nagitation ia a very strong and well stoppered\nbottle.\nSalves.— Lip Salve.— 1.\nSpermaceti 40 parts.\nLard perfectly pure and fresh. .80 parts.\nWhite wax 20 parts.\nOil of sweet almonds 5 to 10 parts.\nAccording to the season of the year, are\nmelted together, the mixture colored with a\nsufficient quantity of alkanet, by digesting the\nroot with the melted mass, and the latter then\nsuitably perfumed, for instance, with—\nOil bergamot 2 parts.\nOiLorange 3 parts.\nThe mass is then poured out into moulds. It\nis customary to pour it into tin tubes, from\nwhich it is removed when cold, and then cov-\nered with tin foil.\n2. Take of\nSpermaceti 1 oz.\nYellow wax 14 oz.\nOil of almonds 2 oz.\nOil of rose 12 drops.\nMelt with gentle heat, add alkanet root, q. s.,\nto color, then strain, and lastly add the oil of\nrose.\n3. Lip Salve in Sticks.\nParaffin 6 drm.\nCocoa butter 6 drm.\nWhite vaseline 1 oz.\nEosin 1 grn.\nOtto of rose 5 drops.\nMelt the solids and add the vaseline. Dissolve\nthe eosin in sufficient alcohol, and add to the\nmixture, also the perfume, and cast into suit-\nable sized sticks.— Zeit. Apoth. Verein.\n4. Cerat d Amour (for the lips).—\nSpermaceti 2 oz.\nOil of sweet almonds 4 oz.\nMilk of roses. 1 drm.\nPowdered roses 3 drm.\nManipulate after the usual method.\n5. Salve for Chapped Lips and Hands. Take\n2 oz. white wax, 1 oz. of spermaceti, 4 oz. of oil\nof almonds, 2 oz. of honey, J4 oz. of essence of\nbergamot, or any other scent. Melt the wax\nand spermaceti; then add the honey, and melt\nall together, and when hot, add the almond oil\nby degrees, stirring it till cold.\n6. Coral Lip Salves.\nWhite wax 70 grm.\nVaseline .100 grm.\nAlkannin u*25 grm.\nEssential oil lemon 1 grm.\nEssential oil bergamot 1 grm.\nEssential oil of roses 0 5 grm.\n7. Olive oil benzoated 500 grm.\nWhite wax 300 grm.\nCetacei 30 grm.\nAlkannin 1 grm.\nEssential oil jasmin 5 grm.\nEssential oil of roses 3 drops\n8. Camphor Cerate.— Take\nOliveoil y Q \\h.\nWhite wax (pure).... M lb.\nSpermaceti 2 oz.\nCamphor. Yz oz.\nMix, as directed under camphor balls. Used\nas an application to chaps, chilblains, abrasions,\nexcoriations, etc.; also as lip salve in cold\nweather, as a hair cosmetic, and as a mild,\nstimulating and anodyne friction.\n9. Fisher s Lip Salve.\nWhite wax 2 oz.\nLard 2 oz.\nSpermaceti J^ oz.\nOil of sweet almonds 1 oz.\nBalsam of Peru M oz.\nWhitesugar Vz oz.\nRaisins 6 oz.\nLet the mixture simmer for two hours in a\ncovered vessel, and then strain through\nlinen.\n10. Creme de Psyche (for the lips).—\nWhite wax 1 oz.\nSpermaceti 1 oz.\nOil of sweet almonds. 5 oz.\nMecca balsam 1 drm.\nPulverized acetate of lead drm.\nPrepare as for the pommade rosat, and add,\nwhile the mixture is warm, the balsam, and\nwhen it is cooled, the sugar of lead.\n11. Peruvian Lip Salve.—\nSpermaceti ointment lb.\nAlkanet root 3or4 drm.\nDigest, at a gentle heat, until the first has\nacquired a rich, deep red color, then pass it","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0511.jp2"},"508":{"fulltext":"Sandaracli.\n496\nSauces.\nthrough a coarse strainer. When the liquid fat\nhas cooled a little, well stir in, of\nBalsam of Peru 3 drm.\nIn a few minutes pour off the clear portion\nfrom the dregs, if any, and add, of—\nOil of cloves ....20 to 30 drops.\nLastly, before it cools, pour it into the pots\nor boxes. The product forms the finest and\nmost esteemed lip salve of the shops. Two or\n3 drops of essence of ambergris, or of essence\nroyale, improve and vary it.\n12. Rose Lip Salve.— As the above, but using\nonly V/% drm. of balsam of Peru, and replacing\nthe oil of cloves with a few drops of otto of\nroses, or sufficient to give the mixture a\nmarked odor of roses. Some makers omit the\nbalsam altogether. If uncolored, it forms\nwhite (rose) lip salve.\n13. White Lip Salve-\nSpermaceti ointment y% lb.\nLiquefy it by the heat of warm water, and\nstir in of\nNeroli or essence de petit grain. y% drm.\nas before.\n14. Fine Rose Lip Salve.— Almond oil, lb.;\nspermaceti and wax, each 2 oz.; alkanet root, 2\noz.; otto of roses, J4 oz. Place the wax, sperm-\naceti oil, and alkanet root into a vessel heated\nby steam or water bath. After the materials\nare melted, they must digest on the alkanet\nroot, to extract its color, for at least four or\nfive hours; finally strain through fine muslin,\nthen add the perfume just before it cools.\nSandaracli, or Sandarac— Juniper resin.\nIt occurs in small yellow drops, easily fusible\nin alcohol. It is largely used in making var-\nnishes and lacquers. It is obtained from the\nAfrican arbor vital.\nSand Belts, to Cement.— There is no\ncement that is equal to the best glue for sand\nbelts. Common glue is poor stuff for any use.\nUse only the best quality of light brown glue,\nand select it yourself. By bending a few pieces\nin your hands, the weak, brittle glue will break\neasy and fly; the strong, tough glue will bend\nwith difficulty, and finally splinter and not fly\ninto pieces.\nSand, Colored.— The coarser particles are\nsifted out from fine white sand, and it is colored\nin the f ollowing way 1. Blue.— Sand, 159 parts;\nBerlin blue, 6 parts. Boil, stirring constantly.\nWhen the sand is colored take out and dry.\n2. Rose Colored Sand.— 150 parts white sand; 6\nparts vermilion. Mix thoroughly.\n3. Dark Brown Sand.— White sand boiled in a\ndecoction of Brazil wood, then dried over heat.\n4. Black Sand.— Fine quartz sand (freed from\ndust by sifting), }4 lb.; add to this 8 to 12 spoons\nof fat. Heat the sand before adding the fat,\nand continue the heat until there is no smoke\nor flame on stirring. Wash and dry.\nSand Parting.— Burnt sand scraped from the\nsurface of castings.\nSandstone, Cement for. See Ce-\nments.\nSangaree.— One-third of wine in water\nwith sugar and nutmeg to the taste.\nFrozen.— Nothing can be more refreshing at\nthe dinner table in hot weather than claret or\nport wine made into sangaree with proportions\nof water, sugar and nutmeg as taste shall di-\nrect, then frozen, with the addition of a few\nwhites of egg beaten to a froth. Send to table\nexactly as you would Roman punch.\nSanitary Hints.— 1. Remember that pure\nair is food, and that polluted air is poison.\n2. Never allow the air to stagnate in your\nrooms or houses.\n3. Provide for the constant ventilation of\nyour rooms. One of the best ways of doing\nthis is keeping the window a little down from\nthe top.\n4. Keep the vent always open.\n5. Thoroughly air all sleeping apartments,\nbeds, and bed clothes during the day.\n6. Do not use, for drinking or cooking water\nwhich has long lain stagnant in cisterns or ves-\nsels.\n7. See that the water cistern is cleaned out\nregularly, say every month or two.\n8. See that there is no connection between\nthe water cistern and the drain, and that the\nwaste goes to the outside ot the house.\n9. Do everything in your power to keep\nclosets and sinks cleanly and sweet.\n10. See that the private drains from closets\nare ventilated by pipe opening at the roof.\n11. See that the private drains from closet\nand sinks are properly trapped, in order that\nthe poisonous gases from the sewers may not\nget into the house.\n12. The neglect of this precaution is a fruit-\nful cause for many of the worse diseases, such\nas diphtheria, typhoid fever, etc.\n13. When you need to use disinfectants, as\nafter fever, etc., remember that they do not\nradically cure the evil. The only remedy is the\nremoval of the causes of impure air or water\nwhich have produced the evil.\n14. Avoid) the use of covered (or press) beds,,\nthe most wholesome being a plain iron bed\nwithout any curtains.\n15. In a case of sickness all utensils, etc.,\nshould be kept scrupulously clean, and the pre-\ncautions suggested above as to maintaining a\nsupply of pure air should be observed with re-\ndoubled vigilance.\nSarsaparilla.\n1. Sassafras bark bruised 1 lb.\nLicorice root bruised 7 oz.\nWater %y 2 gal.\nOil of sassafras V/% drm.\nOil of wintergreen 2 drm.\nAlcohol, 95^ 2 oz.\nBoil the sassafras and licorice in the water\nhalf an hour. Strain through flannel, then add\nthe sirup. Dissolve the oils in the alcohol, and\nadd them to the sirup. Agitate the mixture\nfreely.\n2. Ayer s.— Ayer s formula for making sarsa-\nparilla.—\nFluid extract of sarsaparilla. .3 oz.\nFluid extract stillingia 3 oz.\nFluid extract yellow dock 2 oz.\nFluid extract May apple 2 oz.\nSugar 1 oz.\nPotassium iodide. 90 grn.\nIron iodide 10 grn.\nMix them.\nSarsaparilla, Extracts and Essences\nof. See Extracts and Essences.\nSarsaparilla Mead.— Boil }4 lb. of Spanish\nsarsaparilla four or five hours; strain off 1 gal.\nAdd 8 lb. sugar, 5 oz. tartaric acid.\nSaturation.— A term used by chemists to\nexpress the condition of a body when it has\ntaken up as much of a substance as it will hold\n(chemically) or be combined with. Substances\nvary greatly as regards their solubility, thus\nsugar is very soluble, while mercury bichloride\nis only sparingly soluble. Water is the great\nsolvent, and when heated its dissolving power\nis greatly increased.\nSauces.— 1. Anchovy. Three or 4 anchovies\nchopped; butter, 3 or 4 oz,.; water, 2 oz.; vine-\ngar, 2 tablespoonfuls; flour, 1 tablespoonful;\nstir over the fire till it thickens, then rub it\nthrough a coarse hair sieve.\n2. Chetney Quihi.— Sharp apples pared and\ncored, tomatoes, salt, brown sugar and raisins,\nof each 8 oz.; red chillies and powdered ginger,\nof each 4 oz.; garlic and shallots, of each 2 oz.;\npound well, add vinegar 3 qt. and lemon juice 1\nqt.; digest with frequent agitation for a month,\npour off nearly all the liquor and bottle. Used\nfor fish or meat, either hot or. cold, or to flavor","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0512.jp2"},"509":{"fulltext":"Sauces.\n497\nScars,\nstews, etc. The residue is the chetney, and\nmust he put into pots or jars. It is used like\nmustard.\n3. Fish.— a. Port wine, 1 gal.; mountain, lqt.;\nwalnut ketchup, 2 qt.; anchovies and liquor, 2\nlb.; 8 lemons; 36 shallots; scraped horseradish,\n134 lb.; flour of mustard, 8 oz.; mace, 1 oz.;\ncayenne, q. s.; boil up gently, strain and bottle.\nb. Twenty-four anchovies, 10 shallots; scraped\nhorseradish, 3 spoonfuls; mace and cloves, of\neach 34 oz.; 2 sliced lemons; anchovy liquor, 8\noz.; water, 1 pt.; Hock or Rhenish wine, 1 bot-\ntle; walnut ketchup, 34 pt.; boil to 234 lb., strain\nand bottle.\n4. Quin s.— a. Walnut pickle and port wine,\nof each, 1 pt.; mushroom ketchup, 1 qt.; an-\nchovies and shallots, chopped, of each 2 doz\nsoy, 3^ pt.; cayenne, 34 oz.; simmer for ten\nminutes, strain and bottle.\nb. Walnut pickle, mushroom ketchup and\nsoy, of each 1 pt.; chopped cloves of garlic and\nanchovies, of each 1 doz.; cayenne and bruised\ncloves, of each 1 drm. As last.\n5. Sauce Superlative.— Port wine and mush-\nroom ketchup, of each 1 qt.; walnut pickle, 1\npt.; pounded anchovies, Si lb.; lemon peel,\nminced shallots and scraped horseradish, of\neach 2 oz.; allspice and black pepper, bruised,\nof each 1 oz.; Cayenne pepper and bruised\ncelery seed, of each 34 oz. (or currie powder\noz.); digest fourteen days, strain and bottle.\n6. Tomato.— Bruised tomatoes, 1 gal.; salt, 34\nlb.; in three days press out the juice; to each\nquart add shallots, 2 oz.; black pepper, 1 drm.;\nooil for thirty minutes, strain, add mace, all-\nsp.^e, ginger and nutmeg, of each 34 oz.; cori-\nander seed and cochineal, of each 1 drm.; sim-\nmer gently for fifteen minutes, strain, cool\nand bottle.\n7. Sauce Aristocrati que.— Green walnut juice,\nanchovies, equal parts; cloves, mace and pim-\nento, bruised, of each 1 drm. to every pound of\njuice; boil and strain; then to every pint add 1\npt. vinegar, 34 pt. of port wine, 34 Pt of soy,\nand a few shallots. Let the whole stand for a\nfew days and decant the clear liquor.\n8. Sauce au Roi.— Brown vinegar (good),3qt.;\nsoy and walnut ketchup, of each 34 pt.; cloves\nand shallots, of each 34 doz.; Cayenne pepper, 1\noz.; mix and let them stand for fourteen days.\n9. Sauce Piquante.— Soy, 1 part; port wine\nand Cayenne, of each 2 parts; brown vinegar\n16 parts; mix and let them stand for three or\nfour days before bottling.\n10. Soy.— Boil until soft 2 qt. of the seeds of\nDolichos soja (if this cannot be obtained use\nharicot or kidney beans). Add 2 qt. bruised\nwheat; keep in a warm place for one day; add 2\nqt. salt and 1 gal. of water. Keep for two or\nthree months in a tightly covered stone jar.\nThen press out the liquor. The genuine soy is\nimported from China, but this is a good sub-\nstitute.\nItalian Tamara. —Coriander seed, 10 oz.; cloves\nand cinnamon, of each 10 oz.; anise seed, 5 lb.;\nfennel seed, 5 lb. Mix.\nTo make Quin Sauce.— Walnut catsup, 2)4,\ngal.; mushroom catsup, 234 gal.; soy, 134 gal.;\ngarlic, 134 lb.; sprats, 734 lb. Boil 15 minutes,\nstrain and bottle.\nHarvey s Sauce— Quin sauce, 24 parts; soy, 8\nparts; cayenne, 34 part.\nEpicurean Sauce. Indian soy, 3 oz.; walnut\ncatsup, 12 oz.; mushroom catsup, 12 oz.; port\nwine, 3 oz.; bruised white pepper, oz.; shal-\nlots, 434 oz.; cayenne, oz.; cloves, oz. Mac-\nerate for 2 weeks in a warm place, strain and\nadd white wine vinegar to make 134 pt.\nWorcester$h1/re Sauce.— This is quite a com-\nplex condiment. It is made of wine vinegar,\n134 gal walnut catsup, 1 gal.; mushroom cat-\nsup, 1 gal.; Madeira wine, 34 gal.; Canton soy, 34\ngal.; moist sugar, 234 lb.; salt, 19 oz.; powdered\ncapsicum, 3oz.; pimento, 134 oz.; coriander, 1J4\noz.; chetney, V/ 2 oz.; cloves, oz.; mace, oz.;\ncinnamon, oz.; asafcetida, 634 drm.; dissolve\nin 1 pt. brandy 20° above proof. Boil 2 lb. hog s\nliver for 12 hours in 1 gal. of water, add water\ncontinually so as to keep up the quantity of 1\ngal.; mix the boiled liver thoroughly with the\nwater, strain through a coarse sieve, and aad\nthis to the above mixture. It is self-evident\nthat no chemical examination could ever de-\ntect the presence of half the above organic\nproducts.\nSavonnettes (Soaps). See Soaps.\nSaws- To Mend Broken Saws.— File to a\npowder pure brass, 3 parts pure silver, 2834\nparts pure copper, 134 parts. Mix thoroughly!\nPut the saw on an anvil, the broken edges in\ncontact. Put a line of the above mixture\nalong the seam, cover with powdered charcoal.\nTake a spirit lamp and a blowpipe, hold the\ncoal dust in place, and blow just enough to melt\nthe solder. Set the joint smooth with a ham-\nmer. File away the superfluous solder.\nTo Remove Wire Edge.— After filing a saw,\nplace it on a level board and pass a whetstone\nover the side of the teeth until all the wire\nedge is off them. This will make the saw cut\ntrue and smooth, and it will remain sharp\nlonger. The saw must be set true with a saw\nset.\nSaws, to Straighten.— You can straighten\nband saws in the following manner Put the\nsaw on to the machine and under tension, just\nas it is to be used. Use a steel straight edge\n10 or 12 in. in length, to find the lumps or twists,\nwhich mark with chalk, so as to know where to\nhammer. Now hold the oval face of a mill-\nwright s or carpenter s hardwood mallet oppo-\nsite the chalk marks and against the saw, and\nwith a light, oval-faced hand hammer knock\nout the lumps. Commence carefully, do not\nstrike too hard. Examine your saw often with\nyour straight edge to see how you get along,\nand you will soon be able to take out twists\nreadily and get your saw perfectly true.\nTo Saw Wood Easily.— Moisten the saw with\nkerosene.\nSaxons. See Pyrotechny.\nScalds. See Burns.\nScalp, Tenderness of the.— This fre-\nquently arises from the practice of using very\nhot water on the head. It may be caused by\nthe sudden change of temperature in sham-\npooing from heat to cold. When the scalp is\nnaturally tender, the head should be washed\ndaily in cold water and friction used, care being\ntaken not to abrade the surface. Afterward\nuse rectified spirit, 1 oz. water, 3 oz., as a\nwash. See also Hair, tlie.\nScars and Cicatrices, tlie Removal\nof.— The cicatrices, scars or marks left by va-\nrious diseases, burns or wounds of divers\nkinds, are often less obstinately permanent\nthan is generally supposed, and from some\nfacts which have lately come under our notice,\nwe are inclined to think that their prevention\nor removal in many cases may be accomplished\nby some mild but effectual antiseptic.\nAmong the exemplifications of the efficacy\nof the formula we are enabled to lay before\nour readers, is the case of a gentleman of our\nacquaintance, whose face was so severely burnt\nby the violent spurting of a quantity of\nmelted lead (owing to a workman having in-\ncautiously dropped a wet pipe into it), that his\neyes were only saved by pebble spectacles from\nutter destruction.\nAt first, of course, carron oil was the sole\napplication, and as for weeks afterward par-\nticles of the granulated metal had literally to\nbe dug out of the flesh, a deeply scarred coun-\ntenance was naturally predicted by all, except\nthe patient himself. One mark of an almost\nimperceptible character alone remained after\nthe expiration of six months, owing, as our\nfriend says, to the whole face being bathed\ntwice or three times a clay, as soon as the oil\ntreatment could be discontinued, with a lotion","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0513.jp2"},"510":{"fulltext":"Scents.\n498\nSewer Gas.\nof the simplest character, as is readily seen by\nglancing: at its constituents.\nLint soaked in the same solution and allowed\nto remain on some little time, will frequently\nmitigate the visible results of smallpox, and\nwe have known one case of ringworm treated\nin this way to leave no scar whatever, while a\nsister of the latter patient, who had had the\nsame disease in a lesser degree, but had not\nemployed this lotion, still retains the evidences\nof the fact.\nThe following is a convenient formula:\nBorax, y% oz. salicylic acid, 12 grn. glycerine,\n3 drm. rose water, 6 oz. Make a lotion.— Mag-\nazine of Pharmacy.\nScents. See Perfumes.\nScent Powders. See Powders.\nScouring; Paste. See Cleansing,\nScouring Soap. See Soaps.\nScrap Books, Paste for. See Pastes.\nScratch Brush, Fluid for.— Use thin\nstarch water to which Has been added a trace\nof sulphuric acid.\nScreen (Lantern), to Render Trans-\nparent.— Coat your screen with a varnish\nmade of Venice turpentine dissolved in a good\nquality of spirits of turpentine. A sizing of\nthe best white glue with a little glycerine added,\nrenders a screen quite translucent.\nScrew Cutting, Bule for Gearing up\nEngine Lathes for.— Read from the lathe\nindex the number of threads per inch cut by\nequal gears and multiply it by any number that\nwill give for a product a gear on the index;\nput this gear upon the stud, then multiply the\nnumber of threads per inch to be cut by the\nsame number and put the resulting gear upon\nthe screw.\nExample. To cut 11^ threads per inch. We\nfind on the index that 48 into 48 cuts 6 threads\nper inch, then\n6x4=24, gear on stud,\nand 11^x4=46, gear on screw.\nAny multiplier may be used so long as the\nproducts include gears that belong with the\nlathe. For instance, instead of 4 as a multiple\nwe may use 6.\nThus, 9x6=54, gear upon stud,\nand 11^x6=69, gear upon screw.\nSee also Index of a Lathe.\nScrew, Rule for. Disregarding friction, the\nrule is as follows\nWeight j force. LUSdSX\npitch\nHence the relation will be the same for all\nscrews having the same pitch.\nThe Standard- Screw Threads. Our United\nStates, or Sellers, standard of screw threads\nand diai leters has been now many years before\nthe mechanics of the country, and yet it is far\nfrom being erenerally adopted and used. The\ndifficulty of procuring its general adoption has,\nperhaps unjustly, been attributed to the self-\nishness of manufacturers, who prefer their\nown fractional threads in order that repairs\nand reduplications must come from them.\nThere is a better reason, and possibly a juster\ncause it is the dissatisfaction Avith the system\nitself. In fact, it is hard to establish a uniform,\nabsolute system in screw threads. Every me-\nchanic can readily see how different are the de-\nmands on a bolt on which the nut is set up to\nstay and on one that is to be used for adjust-\nment. It makes a vast difference in setting\nup a nut on a bolt of two inches diameter\nwith the standard pitch of four and a half to\nthe inch and on another of the same diameter\nwith a thread of six to the inch.\nBut, beyond special needs, the standard is ob-\njected to by many mechanics, because of the\nlack of proper relation (so they say) between\nthe diameter and the pitch, particularly on di-\nameters below one inch. The advance in diam-\neters from one fourth of an inch to tne full\ninch is by sixteenths of an inch, and the\npitches, beginning with twenty to the inch and\nending with eight to the inch, are ten in num-\nber. A three-eighths bolt is cut to a sixteen\nthread, which greatly weakens the bolt by its\ndepth— much more so than an eight thread can\nweaken an inch bolt. Complaint is made that\na half inch bolt with thirteen threads will twist\nin two before it will strip, and that a five-\neighths bolt is ruined by cutting it eleven\nthreads to the inch.\nOur standard is very similar to the English,\nor Whitworth standard, having twenty-one\npitches for twenty-nine diameters, while the\nWhitworth has eighteen pitches to the same\nnumber of diameters. Up to one inch the re-\nlations of pitches and diameters are the same,\nwith the exception of the half inch bolt, which\nby United States standard has a thirteen thread,\nbut by the Whitworth has twelve. In estimat-\ning the relative strength of bolt and pitch of\nthread, reference must be had to the form of\nthread. Beyond dispute the Whitworth is the\nstrongest thread yet produced, as much above\nour modified sharp V-thread, called standard,\nas that is above the old V-thread itself, and\nmore. Its rounding, or convex, bottom is\nnever inducive to fracture. If it was not so\ncostly to produce, it would take the place of\nour square bottom thread for all general pur-\nposes. Some of these objections against the\nstandard will appear to have more than preju-\ndice for their foundation, at least for some\nuses, by a comparison between the threads and\ndiameters and a consideration of the hundreds\nof different purposes to which they are to be\napplied.\n77. S. Standard.\nDiam y 4 y 2 A Vs tt if\nPitch 20 18 16 14 13 12 11 11 10 10\nDiam 1 1% 1H Ws m Ws M\nPitch 998 7 7 6 6 5^ 5\nDiam..l% 2 2*4 2*4 2% 3 3J4 3J^ 3M 4\nPitch.. 5 4^ 4^ 4 4 3)^3^ 3J4 3 3\nSea Sickness. There is no remedj for this\nwhich will answer in all cases. Some people will\nalways be sick. A dose of 30, 60 or 90 grn. of bro-\nmide of sodium three times a day is recom-\nmended. A recumbent position is best suited\nto the patient if ill. Every effort should be\nmade to keep to the deck and a waterproof\nblanket will be found of use. Keep the\nbowels free and try to eat. Crackers, beef tea\nand olives are best relished.\nSeidlitz Powder. See Powders.\nSeidlitz Water. See Waters.\nSeed Lac.— Seed lac is said to be more solu-\nble in alcohol than shellac, and therefore to\nmake a clearer varnish.\nSeggars. —Boxes of a very refractory mate-\nrial used to contain valuable articles during the\nfiring. The seggars for porcelain must stand\nan intense heat.\nSensitizing. See Photography.\nSepia. See Pigments.\nSerpents, Pharaoh s. See Pharaoh s\nSerpents.\nSewer Gas, to Betect. A suspected\njoint in a sewer or drain pipe may be tested by\nwrapping it with a single layer of white mus-\nlin, moistened with a solution of acetate of\nlead. As the gas escapes through the meshes\nof the cloth it will be blackened by the sul-\nphur compounds.\n2. It is usual to detect gas escapes by apply-\ning a lighted taper or candle to the suspected\nplace of leakage. This is dangerous, and many\nexplosions have thus been occasioned. A safer","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0514.jp2"},"511":{"fulltext":"Shafting.\n499\nShoes.\nmode is as follows Mix dark soap and water in\nthe proportion of 2 lb. of the former to 5 or\n7 pt. of the latter. The sticky paste or liquid\nso obtained is ready to be applied by the brush\nto the gas pipe, when, if an escape is taking\nplace, bubbles will readily be seen on the liquid;\nthus the positions of the gas escapes are indi-\ncated without any danger.\nShafting, Springing of.— If a shaft\nsprings in running, the trouble lies probably in\neither a too small diameter of the shaft for its\nweight and velocity, a set of unbalanced pul-\nleys, or an unequal strain on either side by the\nbelts.\nShakclo. See Alloys.\nShampoo Liquors. See the Hair.\nShaving Cream. See Creams.\nShaving, Art of Easy. -The following is\nchiefly the substance of the instructions of the\ncelebrated Mr. Mechi 1. Never fail to well\nwash your beard with soap and cold water, and\nto rub it dry, immediately before you apply\nthe lather, of which the more you use, and the\nthicker it is, the easier you will shave.\n2. Never use warm water, which makes a ten-\nder face.\n3. The moment you leave your bed (or bath)\nis the best time to shave.\n4. Always wipe your razor clean, and strop it\nbefore putting it away; and always put your\nshaving brush away with the lather on it.\n5. The razor (being only a very fine saw)\nshould be moved in a sloping or sawing direc-\ntion, and held nearly flat to your face, care\nbeing taken to draw the skin as tight as possi-\nble with the left hand, $o as to present an even\nsurface and throw out the beard.\n6. The practice of pressing on the edge of a\nrazor in stropping it soon rounds it; the pres-\nsure should be directed to the back, which\nshould never be raised from the strop. If you\nshave from heel to point of the razor, strop it\nfrom point to heel; but if you begin with the\npoint in shaving, then strop it from heel to\npoint.\n7. If you only once put away your razor with-\nout stropping it, or otherwise perfectly cleaning\nthe edge, you must no longer expect to shave\nwell and easy, the soap and damp so soon rust\nthe fine teeth and edge.\n8. A piece of soft plate leather should always\nbe kept with razors, to wipe them with.\nShaving Cream.\nCurd soap 8 oz.\nAlmond oil 2 oz.\nGlycerine 1 oz\nSpermaceti oz.\nCarbonate of potassium J4 oz.\nWater .16 oz.\nI Cut the curd soap into shreds, and dissolve it\nby the aid of a water bath in 14 oz. of water.\nDissolve the spermaceti in the almond oil, and\nwhile warm mix it with glycerine, potash, and\nremainder of the water; transfer to a warm\nmortar, gradually and steadily incorporate the\nwarm soap solution, and continue to stir until\na smooth paste is formed. With this incorpo-\nrate a suitable perfume.\nShaving Paste.— This popular cosmetic\nmay be prepared in various ways, but the fol-\nlowing formulas may be taken as representing\nthe mode of manufacture\n1. Take Naples soap, i lb.; Castile or Marseil-\nles soap, V6 lb.; honey, 3^ lb.; essence of amber-\ngris, oils of cassia and nutmeg, of each 20 to 30\ndrops. Mix these ingredients well together in\na mortar, adding a little rose water, until a per-\nfectly homogeneous paste is formed.\n2. Take of white or virgin wax, spermaceti,\nand almond oil, of each 2 oz.; melt over a water\nbath, and then add 3 oz. of Windsor soap pre-\nviously worked up into a paste with a little\n*ose water. Mix all well together and place in\najar, which should be kept well covered.\n3. White soft soap, 12 oz.; spermaceti and\nolive oil, of each iy% oz. Melt these ingredients\nall together, and stir until the mass is nearly\ncold perfume with any essential oil, or a mix-\nture of perfumes, according to taste.\nShaving Soaps. See Soaps.\nr^kay 111 to Prevent Soreness from.—\nThe following is frequently used Take of po-\ntassium cyanide, 6grn. avoirdupois; glycerine,\nji oz.; strongest camphor water, 2)4 oz.; mix.\nThe foregoing is poisonous, and it must only be\nvery cautiously used. The white powder or\ncake frequently used by barbers is magnesia,\nand can readily be procured from a druggist.\nBay rum is also used.\nShawls, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nShellac, to Bleach. See Bleaching.\nShellac, Cement. See Cements.\nShellac, to Pulverize. Inclose the\nshellac in strong cloth and beat with a hammer\nor iron pestle sift the fine particles out aud\ncontinue the operation until all is pulverized.\nShells, to Color.— A little lac dye is boiled\nand left standing to settle, it is then dissolved\nin a solution of tin chloride. The shells having\nbeen well cleaned, are dipped in this until they\nbecome the proper color.\nShells, to Silver. See Silvering.\nSherbet, for Dispensing. Vanilla sir-\nup, 1 qt.; pineapple sirup, 1 pt.; lemon sirup,\n1 pt.\nSherry. See Wines,\nSherry Cobbler.— Take 1 tablespoon su-\ngar; 2 or 3 slices of orange; 2 wineglasses sherry.\nFill the tumbler with shaved ice and shake\nwell.\nShingles, to Fireproof. See Fire-\nproofing.\nShirtings, Dressing for White.— For 175\npt. of dressing take 111b. wheat starch, 21b. 3\noz. stearine, and 6 lb. 9 oz. china clay. Boil up\ntogether and apply hot, and dry on the cylin-\nder.\nShirts, to Wash. See Cleansing.\nShoemaker s Ink. See Inks.\nShoemaker s Wax. See Waxes.\nShoes, Blacking for. See Blacking.\nShoes, Buckskin, etc., to Restorethe Black, Vel-\nvety Appearance of .—First wet the surface well\nwith strong alum water, and when nearly dry\ntreat with a decoction of logwood boiled and\nfiltered, to which is added a little acetate of\niron. The skin will not be as soft as it origin-\nally was.\nFrench Paste for Patent Leather.— Add. to\nsome pure wax which has been melted in a\nwater bath some olive oil, and then some lard.\nMix thoroughly by stirring over a moderate\nfire. Add some oil of turpentine, then a little\noil of lavender. This will form a paste which\nshould be put in boxes. Apply with a linen\nrag. The paste keeps the leather soft and re-\nstores the gloss.\nDressing for Tan Shoes.—\nBeeswax 1 part\nOil of turpentine.... 4 parts.\nCfieap Color for Shoe ami Harness Edges.\nOne-half gallon of soft water y 2 oz. extract\nlogwood boil until the extract is dissolved.\nAfter removing from the fire add 1 oz. cop-\nperas, 34 oz. gum arabic, 34 oz. bichromate of\npotash, all to be pulverized.\nWliite Finish for Shoes-\nBest white bonnet glue 1 lb.\nSulphate zinc, c. p 1J^ lb.\nSulphate copper, ground 2 lb.\nPipe clay, bolted 1 lb.\nSulphate magnesia 1 lb.\nLight yellow ocher 2 oz.\nWater 4 gal.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0515.jp2"},"512":{"fulltext":"Shot.\n500\nSiccative.\nMix and let it stand until all is dissolved,\nthen bring to boiling- point and add 2 lb. oxalic\nacid and gum tragacanth, q. s. Iron or gum\nbrush, in the usual way, and wax. If this is\nproperly used, the red color will not work\nthrough.\nShoes, to Harden the Soles of.—l. If a pair of\nnew shoes, have the soles made warm by holding\nthem near a fire or stove, and then varnishing\nthem with copal varnish, drying them, warm-\ning, and applying a second and third coat; the\nleather will become waterproof and very hard,\nlasting about twice as long as if not thus\ntreated.\n2. Stockholm tar rubbed on the soles of shoes\nhardens the leather materially, renders it im-\npervious to water, and makes it wear much\nlonger than leather not thus treated.\nShoes, to Remove the Smell of.— Try a strong\nsolution of sulphate of iron, copperas, in\nwater.\nTo Give a Fine Smooth Appearance to the\nSoles of Shoes after Scraping.— Stearine, V/%\nparts, dissolved in 6 to 7 parts of benzine. Ap-\nply to the soles, and when dry, polish with a\nlinen cloth.\nTreeing Shoes, Composition for. Dissolve gum\ntragacanth in water, then add a little ink to\nmake it black, and finally a small quantity of\nneatsf oot oil It must be quite thin, or else, if\nthick, it is liable to cake. Take of—\nGum shellac lb.\nAlcohol 2 qt.\nDissolve and add—\nCamphor V/% oz.\nLampblack 2 oz.\nShoes, Varnish for. See Varnishes.\nShoes, to Waterproof. See Waterproof-\ning.\nShot Metal. See Alloys.\nShow Bottles, Colors for, Druggists.\nAmber. Dragon s blood, in coarse powder, 1\npart; oil of vitriol, 4 parts. When thoroughly\ndissolved, dilute with cold distilled water till\nthe required tint is obtained.\nBlue.—l. Copper sulphate, 2 oz.; sulphuric\nacid, y% oz.; water, 20 oz.\n2. A solution of soluble Prussian blue in ox-\nalic acid and diluted to the right shade.\n3. Solution of indigo in sulphuric acid, dilu-\nted with water.\nCrimson. 1. Iodine and iodide of potash, of\neach 30 grn.; hydrochloric acid, 1 drm.; water,\nlgal.\n2. Alkanet root, 1 oz.; oil of turpentine, 20\nox.\nGreen. 1. Sulphate of copper, 1 drm.; bichro-\nmate of potash, 30 grn.; strong liquor of am-\nmonia, 2 oz.; water, 1 gal.\n2. Copper sulphate, 2 oz.; sodium chloride, 4\noz.; water, 1 pt.\n3. Solution of verdigins (distilled) in acetic\nacid, diluted with water.\n4. Dissolve blue vitriol in water, and add ni-\ntric acid until it turns green.\n5. For dark green, chromium sulphate.\nMagenta.— Acetate of rosaniline dissolved in\nwater.\nOlive. Dissolve equal weights of iron sul-\nphate and sulphuric acid in water and add\ncopper nitrate, q. s. to strike the color.\nOrange. 1. Dissolve bichromate of potash in\nwater and add a little sulphuric acid.\n2. Dissolve gamboge in liquor of potassa;\ndilute and add a little water.\nPink. 1. To a solution of cobalt nitrate or\nchloride, in water add sesquicarbonate of am-\nmonia* q. s. to dissolve the precipitate at first\nformed.\n2. From madder (washed with cold water),\n1 oz.; sesquicarbonate of ammonia, loz.; water,\n3 pt., 12 fl. oz.; digest with agitation, for\ntwenty -four hours; then dilute with more\nwater and filter.\nI urple.—l. Sulphate of copper, 2 drm.; water,\n2 oz.; French gelatine, 1 drm.; boiling water, 2\noz.; solution of potassa, 2 pt. Dissolve the copper\nsalt in the water, and the gelatine in the boil-\ning water. Mix the two solutions and add the\nliquor of potassa. Shake the mixture a few\ntimes during ten hours, after which decant and\ndilute with water.\n2. A solution of copper sulphate, 1 oz., in\nwater, 1 qt., with the addition of 1J4 oz. sesqui-\ncarbonate of ammonia.\n3. To the last add a sufficient quantity of\nthe first pink, above, to turn the color.\n4. To an infusion of logwood, add carbonate\nof ammonia, q. s.\n5. Lead acetate, 3 oz.; cochineal, 1 drm.; water,\nq.s.\n6. Add sulphate of indigo, nearly neutralized\nwith chalk, to an infusion of cochineal till it\nturns purple.\nBed.— 1. Solution of perchloride of iron, 10\ndrops; sulphocyanide of potassium, 10 grn.;\nwater, 1 gal.\n2. Dissolve carmine in ammonia and dilute\nwith water.\n3. Dissolve cochineal in a weak solution of\nammonia or in\n4. Sal ammoniac, and dilute with water.\n5. Add 4 oz. sulphuric acid to 1 gal. water,\nand digest 8 oz. red rose leaves in the solution\nfor twenty-four hours.\n6. Dissolve madder lake in sesquicarbonate\nof ammonia, and dilute with water.\nViolet.— Mix together solutions of nitrate\nof cobalt and sesquicarbonate of ammonia,\nadding a sufficiency of ammonio-sulphate of\ncopper to strike the required color.\nYellow. 1. A solution of sesquioxide of iron\n(ferric oxide), }4 lb., in 1 qt. hydrochloric acid,\ndiluted with water.\n2. To a strong decoction of French berries\nadd a little alum.\n3. A simple solution of potassium chromate\nor potassium bichromate.\n4. A solution of equal parts of niter and po-\ntassium chromate.\n5. A solution of potassium bichromate.-\nShrinkage in Castings. See Casting.\nShrub.— A species of concentrated cold\npunch. Prep. 1. Brandy Shrub. a. Brandy, 1\ngal.; orange and lemon juice, of each 1 pt.;\npeels of 2 oranges; do. of 1 lemon; digest for\ntwenty-four hours, strain, and add white sugar\n4 lb., dissolved in water, 5 pt.\nb. Brandy at proof, 34 gal.; essential oils of\noranges and lemons, of each 1 oz., dissolved in\nrectified spirit, lqt.; good lump sugar, 300 lb.,\ndissolved in water, 20 gal. mix well by rummag-\ning, and gradually and cautiously add of a\nsolution of tartaric acid in water or of Seville\norange juice, q. s. to produce a pleasant but\nscarcely perceptible acidity; next rummage\nwell for fifteen minutes, add water to make the\nwhole measure exactly 100 gal., and again\nrummage well for half an hour; lastly, bung-\ndown loosely; in ten or twelve days it will\nusually be sufficiently brilliant to be racked.\nThis is 66 u. p.\n2. Rum Shrub.— As the last, but substituting\nrum for brandy.\n3. Punch Shrub.— Concentrated punch, made\nwith equal parts of spirit and water. Used to\nmake punch.\n4. Lemonade Shrub.— Concentrated lemon-\nade. Used to make lemonade or lemon sher-\nbet.\n5. Shrub, West India.— Take 1 gal. of Ja-\nmaica spirits, 6 lb. of refined sugar, and 1 qt. of\nlime juice. Dissolve your sugar in the lime\njuice, and then mix it well with the spirits,\nafter which put it into a demijohn to settle and\nbecome mellow. This will make excellent\npunch.\nSiccative. Those oils which thicken and\ndry into transparent flexible substance, form-\ning a kind of skin, are said to be drying or sic-\ncative.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0516.jp2"},"513":{"fulltext":"Sideraphite.\n501\nSilvering.\nSideraphite. See Alloys.\nSienna, Raw, See Pigments.\nSilk, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nSilk, Oil Bath for.— In order to render\nsilk which has been dyed black more lustrous\nand shining-, Mr. A. Gillet recommends the use of\nthe following- bath: Two parts soda crystals are\ndissolved in 100 parts water, the obtained solu-\ntion being of 2° P Olive oil is added to this\nbath until the oil begins to remain at the top of\nsolution. Soap can be added. The addition of\nthe citric, tartaric or acetic acid to this bath is\nnot recommended, as any acid would only di-\nminish the alkaline strength of the bath. If it\nis required to remove the white reflection the\nsilk has acquired in the above bath, the silk can\nbe washed in water containing citric, tartaric,\nor acetic acid\nSilk, to Dye, See Dyeing.\nSilk, to Restore tlie Liuster of, Lost in\nDyeing.— Grate a dozen large potatoes into\n1 gal. soft water, agitate briskly for a few min-\nutes, and let stand for twenty-four hours to\nsettle carefully; draw off clear liquid, sponge\nfabric thoroughly. Press very strongly in one\ndirection, with hot irons, between fine clothes,\nkept moist.\nSilver. See also Niello,\nSilver. See Alloys, j\nSilver Amalgam. See Amalgam.\nSilver, Burnishing.— Remove all dirt with\npowdered pumice stone, then brush all parts\nwith strong soap suds wipe with a linen cloth\nand burnish. Use soap water as a lubricant.\nSilver, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nDead White on Silver Articles.— The article\nshould be heated to a cherry red, or dull red,\nallowed to cool, then placed in a pickle of 2j^\nparts sulphuric acid to 50 parts water. Let it\nremain in the pickle one or two hours. If\nthe surface is not right, rinse, and repeat the\noperation. When whitened enough, remove\nfrom the pickle, rinse well in hot water, and\ndry in warm boxwood sawdust.\nFrosting and Whitening Silver, Pickle for.—\nWater, 6 oz.; sulphuric acid, V/% drm. Heat\nand immerse the article in the pickle, until it\nis frosted. Wash well, dry with soft linen, or\nin fine boxwood sawdust. Less acid may be\nused for whitening only.\nTo Frost Polished Silver.— Make a solution of\noz. cyanide of potassium in J4 pt. of water.\nApply to the silver with a brush. Hold the\nsilver with pliers made of lancewood or box-\nwood. Very poisonous.\nSilver, German. See Alloys,\nSilver, Nitrate. See Photography (Silver\nNitrate).\nj Silver, to Oxidize. See Oxidizing.\nPink Tint upon Silver.— Fearn recommends\nthe following for producing a fine pink tint on\nsilver. Dip the cleaned article for a few sec-\nonds in a strong hot solution of chloride of\ncopper, then rinse and dry it, or dip it in 90%\nalcohol, and ignite the spirit.\nSilver, to Platinize.— Place some platinum in\na small quantity of aqua regia or nitrohydro-\nchlorlc acid, and keep it in a warm place for a\nfew days, when it will have dissolved. As soon\nas it has dissolved, evaporate the liquid at a\ngentle heat until it is as thick as honey, so as\nto get rid of the excess of the nitiic and hydro-\nchloric acids. Add a little water, and it is\nready for use. A dozen drops of this solution\ngoes a long way in platinizing silver. The ope-\nration is performed in a small glass or beaker,\ncovered with a watch glass to keep in the\nflumes, and placed in a little sand in a saucer to\nequalize the heat.\nSilver, to Plate with. See Electro- Uletal-\nlurgy.\nSilver, to Polish., See Polishing.\nSilver, to Recover.— Place in the open air or\nunder a hood with a good draught; add a small\nquantity of salt, then dilute sulphuric acid until\nno further precipitate forms; allow to settle,\nwash the precipitate with clean hot water, mix\nit with a small quantity of water acidified with\nsulphuric acid, and a few fragments of pure\nzinc collect and wash the reduced silver, sep-\narate the remaining fragments of zinc; dry\nand melt with a little borax glass.\nTo Separate Silver from Copper.— Mix equal\nparts sulphuric acid, nitric acid, and waier.\nBoil the metal in this mixture until it is dis-\nsolved. Throw in a little salt to cause the sil-\nver to subside.\nSilver Tree.—l. Nitrate silver, 2 drm.\n2. Quicksilver, 1 drm. Dissolve No. 1 in 34 pt.\nof filtered water, and set the glass vessel con-\ntaining the solution on the chimney piece,\nwhere it is not likely to be disturbed. Now\npour in No. 2; in a short time the silver will be\nprecipitated in the most beautiful arborescent\nform, resembling real vegetation.\nSilverware, to Preserve.— Silverware may be\nkept bright and clean by coating the articles\n(warmed) with a solution of collodion diluted\nwith alcohol.\nSilverware, to Polish. See Polishing;\nSilver Wash. Mix 1 part chloride of silver\nwith 3 parts pearlash, l^j parts common salt,\nand 1 part whiting, and rub the mixture on the\nsurface of brass or copper, previously well\ncleaned, by means of soft leather or a cork\nmoistened with water and dipped into the pow-\nder. When properly silvered, the metal should\nbe well washed in hot water, slightly alkalized,\nand then wiped dry.\nSilver, to Whiten. Many different methods\nhave been used. An old method is to dip the\nwork in a thick solution of borax, then place\nit in a copper annealing pan, sprinkle it over\nwith charcoal dust, and place the pan and its\ncontents upon a clear fire. Heat until red hot,\nthen withdraw and allow to cool. The work is\nnext boiled in dilute sulphuric acid, and if the\nright color is not obtained, the process is re-\npeated one or more times. The lower stand-\nards require five or six operations to eftect\nthe proper degree of whiteness.\nAnother plan is to dip the work in a mixture\nof 4 parts powdered charcoal and 1 part niter,\nwell mixed with water. The work is heated\nuntil the coating is thoroughly dry, when it is\nremoved from the fire, allowed to cool, and\nboiled out in a solution of bisulphate of potash.\nAfter two or three operations a beautiful dead\nwhite color is the result. It is then washed in\nsoda and water containing a little soap, or\nscratched and burnished if required bright. The\nprocess is completed by drying in warm box-\nwood sawdust.\nGee s method of whitening consists of mak-\ning the work red hot, and boiling in dilute sul-\nphuric acid (1 part of acid to 40 parts of water).\nThe process is repeated, if necessary, until the\nrequisite color is obtained. This method is not\nsuitable for very common work, Avhich re-\nquires a thin deposit of pure silver by the elec-\ntro method, or by chemical decomposition of\ncertain silver salts applied in the form of a\npaste, instead of: subjecting it to the above\nwhitening process. The articles may also be\ndipped in solutions containing silver, when sil-\nver is deposited on their surface. This is termed\na simple immersion process.\nSilvering. See also Electro-Metallur-\ngy.\nBrass,to Silver.— Take 1 part chloride of silver\n(the white precipitate which falls when a solu-\ntion of common salt is poured into a solution\nof nitrate of silver of lunar caustic), 3 parts of\npearlash, 1 of whiting, and \\\\i of common salt,\nor 1 part chloride or silver and 10 parts of\ncream of tartar, and rub the brass with a moist-\nened piece of cork dipped in the powder.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0517.jp2"},"514":{"fulltext":"Silvering.\n502\nSilvering.\nJ%\nSilvering Brass.— The first essential is that the\nmetal be chemically clean, which is best done\nby the use of dilute nitric acid, followed by a\nwash with clean water, and then with dilute\naqua ammonia, drying- in sawdust. If the\nmetal be then rubbed with chloride of silver\ndissolved in water, and then washed and again\ndried in sawdust, the result will be fine. It\nshould, however, be immediately lacquered in\norder to preserve the surface.\nI Copper, Silvering Powder for Coating.— Nitrate\nof silver, 60 grn.; common salt, 40 grn.; cream\ntartar, 7 drm. This will be ready for applica-\ntion when mixed and moistened with a little\nwater.\nSilvering with a Dead Luster. Mix 7 oz. white\nlead and 1 oz. white litharge, with linseed oil\nvarnish. Mix this mass with an oil varnish.\nDesilvering.— The f ollowing is a liquid which\nwill dissolve silver without attacking copper,\nbrass, or German silver, so as to remove tne\nsilver from silvered objects, plated ware, etc.\nIt is a mixture of 1 part of nitric acid with 6\nparts sulphuric, heated in a water bath to 160°\nat which temperature it operates best.\n■ilver ing Glass.— 1.— a. Reducing Solution.—\nIn 13 oz. of water dissolve 12 grn. Rochelle\nsalts, and boil. Add, while boiling, 16 grn. ni-\ntrate of silver, dissolved in 1 oz. of water, and\ncontinue the boiling for ten minutes more\nthen add water to make 12 oz.\nh. Silvering Solution.— Dissolve 1 oz. nitrate\nof silver in 10 oz. water then add liquid ammo-\nnia until the brown precipitate is nearly, but\nnot quite, all dissolved then add 1 oz. alcohol\nand sufficient water to make 12 oz.\nTo Silver.— Take equal parts of a and h, mix\nthoroughly, and lay the glass, face down, on\nthe top of the mixture while wet, after it has\nbeen carefully cleaned with soda and well\nrinsed with clean water.\nDistilled water shoul be used for making\nthe solutions.\nAbout 2 drm. of each will silver a plate 2 in.\nsquare. The dish in which the silvering is done\nshould be only a little larger than the plate.\nThe solution should stand and settle for two or\nthree days before being used, and will keep\ngood a long time.\n2. Draper s Method.— Dissolve 560 grn. Ro-\nchelle salts in 3 oz. water. Dissolve 800 grn.\nnitrate of silver in 3 oz. water. Add silver so-\nlution to 1 oz. strong ammonia until brown ox-\nide of silver remains undissolved. Then add,\nalternately, ammonia and silver solution care-\nfully until the nitrate of silver is exhausted,\nwhen a little of the brown precipitate should\nremain; filter. Just before using mix with the\nRochelle salt solution, and dilute to 22 oz.\nClean the mirror with nitric acid or plain col-\nlodion and tissue paper. Coat a tin pan with\nbeeswax and rosin, equal parts. Fasten a stick\nin. thick across the bottom. Pour in the\nsilvering solution. Put in quickly the glass\nmirror, face downward, one edge first. Carry\nthe pan to the window and rock the glass slow-\nly for y% hour. Bright objects should now be\nscarcely visible through the film. Take out the\nmirror; set it on edge on blotting paper to dry.\nWhen thoroughly dry, lay it, face up, on a\ndusted table. Stuff a piece of softest thin\nbuckskin loosely with cotton. Go gently over\nthe whole silver surface with this rubber in\ncircular strokes. Put some very fine rouge on\na piece of buckskin, laid flat, on the table, and\nimpregnate the rubber with it. The best\nstroke for polishing is a motion in small cir-\ncles, at times, going gradually round on the\nmirror, at times across, on the various chords.\nAt the end of an hour of continuous gentle\nrubbing, with occasional touches on the flat,\nrouged skin, the surface will be polished so as\nto be perfectly black in opaque positions, and,\nwith moderate care, scratchless. It is best, be-\nfore silvering, to warm the bottle of silver so-\nlution and the mirror in water heated to 100°\nFah.\n3. Siemens Method. I or a long time alde-\nhyde has been employed in the glass silvering\nprocess suggested by Liebig, but some diffi-\nculties of manipulation have led practical men\nto prefer other reducing agents. R. Siemens\nhas modified the operation and greatly simpli-\nfied the reducing of the silver. Dry ammonia\ngas is passed through aldehyde to produce\naldehyde ammonia; 2*5 grm. of aldehyde am-\nmonia and 4 grm. nitrate of silver to 1 liter of\nwater is the proper porportion to take. The\nnitrate of sliver and. aldehyde ammonia are\nseparately dissolved in distilled water, mixed\nand filtered. The object to be silvered must\nbe thoroughly worked to free it from fat, and,\nif it be a globe or bottle, the liquid is poured in\nas high as it is desired to form the deposit. As\nsoon as the heat which must be applied shows\n50° C. the separation of the silver begins and\nsoon spreads itself all over the whole surface.\nAt first, when the coating is very thin, it looks\ndark, but soon assumes a metallic luster; when\nit is a brilliant white it is time to remove the\nfluid contents, as the mirror is apt to be in-\njured by too long contact with the aldehyde.\nFlat objects are laid upon the mixture in the\nusual manner. In Germany, where aldehyde\nammonia can be purchased at a reasonable\ncost, this process is highly prized. By making\nhis own salt in the manner described above,\nthe chemist in this country can also avail him-\nself of the method. The simplicity of Siemens\nprocess commends it to favor.\n4. Petitjean s Method. Up to 1840 mirrors\nwere silvered exclusively by means of an amal-\ngam, a process most destructive to the work-\nmen employed. An important step was ef-\nfected by an English chemist, Drayton, who\nconceived the idea of coating mirrors with a\nthin layer of silver, obtained by reducing an\nammoniacal solution of nitrate of silver, by\nmeans of highly oxidizable essential oils. This\nprocess was subsequently modified by several\nchemists, but only became really practical\nwhen M. Petitjean substituted tartaric acid for\nthe reducing agents formerly employed. The\nglass to be silvered is laid upon a horizontal\ncast iron table heated to 104° F. The surface is\nwell cleaned, and solutions of silver and tar-\ntaric acid, suitably diluted, ai*e poured upon\nit. The liquid, in consequence of a well-\nknown effect of capillarity, does not flow over\nthe edges, forming a layer a fraction of an inch\nin thickness. In twenty minutes the silver be-\ngins to be deposited on the glass, and in an\nhour and a quarter the process is complete.\nThe liquid is poured off the glass, washed with\ndistilled water, dried, and covered with a var-\nnish to preserve the silver from friction.\nThe advantages are evident. Mercury, with\nits sanitary evils, is suppressed; there is a gain\nin point of cost, as 60 to 75 grains of silver,\ncosting about 20 cents, suffice for 10*75 square\nfeet, which, under the old system, would re-\nquire V/% pounds of tin and the same weight of\nmercury. A few hours suffice to finish a glass\non the new system, while the old process re-\nquired twelve days as the minimum. On the\nother hand, the glasses thus silvered have a\nmore yellowish tint; portions of the pellicle of\nsilver sometimes become detached, epecially if\nexposed to the direct action of the sun, and,\ndespite the protecting varnish, the silver is\nsometimes blackened by- sulphureted hydro-\ngen. M. Lenoir has happily succeeded in over-\ncoming these defects by a process alike simple\nand free from objections on sanitary grounds.\nThe glass, silvered as above, is washed and\nthen sprinkled with a dilute solution of the\ndouble cyanide of mercury and potassium.\nThe silver displaces a part of the mercury\nand enters into solution, while the rest of the\nsilver forms an amalgam whiter and much\nmore adhesive to glass than pure silver. The\ntransformation is instantaneous. The amount\nof mercury fixed does not exceed 5 to 6 per\ncent. The glass thus prepared is free from the","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0518.jp2"},"515":{"fulltext":"Silvering.\n503\nSilvering.\nyellowish tint of pure silver. It is also less at-\ntacked by sulphur vapors and the rays of the\nsun, in which last request it is superior to mir-\nrors silvered by the old process.— Bulletin de la\nSociete cT Encouragement pour V Industrie Na-\ntionale.\n5. First take 80 grn. of nitrate of silver\n(either lunar caustic or the crystallized salt),\nand dissolve it in 10 oz. of water, preferably\ndistilled or rain water. To this add 2 oz. of\nalcohol and 2 oz. of aqua ammonia. The ammo-\nnia is added to the solution drop by drop, until\nthe precipitate at first formed is dissolved. The\nsolution is then allowed to settle for three or\nfour hours, when it is ready for use, and forms\nsolution No. 1. Then take 6 oz. of water and\ndissolve it in 24 grm. of nitrate of silver, and\nadd to the same 30 grm. of arsenite or tartrate\nof copper, and then add, drop by drop, suffi-\ncient aqua ammonia to dissolve the precipitate\nof oxide of silver at first formed, and the ar-\nsenite or tartrate of copper, after which add 2\noz. of alcohol. Then make a separate solution\nof 48 grm. of potassa in 16 oz. of water. This\nlast-mentioned solution is brought to a bciling\ntemperature in an evaporating dish, after\nwhich the solution of nitrate of silver and ar-\nsenite or tartrate of copper is added, drop by\ndrop, to the boiling solution of potassa, and the\nboiling is continued for about an hour, or until\na white film collects on xhe surface, after which\nit is allowed to cool and filter, when it is ready\nfor use, and forms solution No. 2.\nIn depositing the alloy upon the glass take a\nsuit: ble quantity of filtered water, preferably\nrain or distilled water, and add to it equal parts\nof solutions Nos. 1 and 2, and mix the whole\nthoroughly, and apply this solution in any con-\nvenient manner to the glass to be coated, and\nthe deposition immediately commences, and is\nallowed to continue, say for about ten minutes,\nuntil the metal in solution is entirely exhaust-\ned, when the glass will be covered with a coat-\ning of the alloy, having a brilliant reflecting\nsurface adj oining the glass.\nIn order to increase the durability of the\ncoating, it is preferable to deposit a second\ncoating upon the first, which is done by repeat-\ning the operation before the first coating is dry,\nand after the coating is completed generally\ncover the whole with a heavy coat of asphal-\ntum varnish, although this is not absolutely\nnecessary, as the metaUic alloy is sufficiently\nhard to stand ordinary wear without it.\nBy the above-described process an alloy hav-\ning all the qualities of hardness and durability\nof the ordinary alloys of copper and silver is\ndeposited upon the glass, and the degree of\nhardness may be varied or modified by varying\nthe proportions of the different ingredients\nemployed. Other salts of copper besides the ar-\nsenite or tartrate may be employed in con-\njunction with the nitrate of silver. By A.\nLaval, St. Louis, Mo.\n6. Martin s.\nA.\nAvoirdupois Wght.\nNitrate of silver 175 grn.\nDistilled water 10 oz.\nB.\nNitrate of ammonia 262 grn.\nDistilled water 10 oz.\nC.\nPui-e caustic potash 1 oz.\nDistilled water 10 oz.\nD.\nPure sugar candy y% oz.\nDistilled water 5 oz.\nDissolve and add\nTartaric acid 50 grn.\nBoil in a flask for ten minutes, and when cool\nadd—\nAlcohol 1 oz.\nDistilled water, q. s., to make up to 10 oz.\nFor use take equal parts of A and B. Mix\ntogether also equal parts of C and D, and mix\nin another measure. Then mix both these\nmixtures together in the silvering vessel, and\nsuspend the mirror face downward in the solu-\ntion.\n7. H. J. Burton s.\nA.\nNitrate of silver 25 grn.\nDistilled water 1 oz.\nB.\nPotash (pure) 25 grn.\nDistilled water 1 oz.\nC.\nSolution A 1 part.\nSolution B 1 part.\nAmmonia to just dissolve the precipitate.\nSolution A to just cause a discoloration.\nD.\nLoaf sugar 2,700 grn.\nDistilled water 20 oz.\nNitric acid 2 drm.\nAlcohol (strong) 10 oz.\nDistilled water to make 80 oz.\nFor use\nSolution C 1 oz.\nSolution D 1 drm.\nSolution C is subject to slow decomposition;\nsolution D, on the contrary, improves by keep-\ning.\n8. Solution 1. Nitrate of silver, 1 oz.; water,\n10 oz.\nSolution 2.— Caustic potash, 1 oz.; water, 10 oz.\nSolution 2.— Glucose, oz.; water 10 oz.\nThe above quantities are those estimated for\n250 square inches of surface. Add ammonia to\nsolution No. 1 till the turbidity first produced\nis just cleared. Now add No. 2 solution and\nagain ammonia to clear; then a little solu-\ntion, drop by drop, till the appearance is\ndecidedly turbid again. Then add No. 3 solu-\ntion and apply to the clean glass surface. A\nfilm was obtained in forty-three minutes at a\ntemperature of 56° F.\nMr. Common s plate of glass was rather a\nlarge one. It was 37 inches in diameter and\n4^4 inches thick, and weighed four hundred-\nweight. —By A. A. Common, F.B.A.S.\nGlass Baits, to Silver.— Lead and tin, of each 2\noz.; bismuth, 2 oz.; mercury, 4oz. Melt together\nin order given. Have the globe perfectly clean\nand dry. Warm it, melt the amalgam and pour\nit in and roil it about until the glass is coated.\nToo high a heat in use will spoil them.\nAmalgams for Silvering Glass Globes.\nLead.\nTin.\nBismuth.\nMercury.\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\n2\nThe lead and tin are melted first;, after which\nthe bismuth is added. The dross is scraped off\nand the mercury added, when the whole mix-\nture is well stirred. Leaves of Dutch metal are\nsometimes added, according to the color which\nit is desired to impart to the globes.\nTo Silver Glass Globes.— The Druggists Cir-\ncular gives this formula for the purpose\nNitrate of silver 1 oz.\nDistilled water 3 oz.\nAlcohol 3 oz.\nAmmonia, sufficient, or about.. 1 oz.\nGrape sugar 2 oz.\nDissolve the nitrate of silver in the water,\nadd ammonia in a quantity just sufficient to\nredissolve the precipitate formed at first, add\nthe alcohol, allow it to rest four or five hours\nand filter. The grape sugar is dissolved separ-\nately in 1 oz. of water, and added to the silver\nsolution at the moment of using. The glass","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0519.jp2"},"516":{"fulltext":"Silvering.\n504\nSilvering.\nglobes being perfectly cleaned, the solution is\npoured into them, and the globes are turned on\nall sides in front of a moderate fire, so that the\nliquid touches every part alike. The coating\nis done in a few minutes, when the excess of\nliquid is to be removed and the globe washed\nwith distilled water first, and lastly with alco-\nhol. The success of the operation depends in a\ngreat degree on the cleanness of the surface of\nthe glass to be silvered; the slightest speck of\ndust or grease spot is sure to show. A good\nway to claan the globes would be to wash them\nwith a warm solution of soda, then with dilute\nnitric acid, and lastly with alcohol, care being\ntaken not to touch with the fingers any part of\nthe globes which is intended to be silvered.\nSilvering Plate Glass.-? A formulae introduced\nby Dr. Henry Draper for silvering is the fol-\nlowing In 3 oz. water dissolve 1*4 oz. Rochelle\nsalt, and, when dissolved, filter. A second so-\nlution containing 1% oz. nitrate of silver to 4\noz. water should be added cautiously to 1 oz.\nliquor ammonias, until a brown precipitate re-\nmains; then add fresh ammonia, and again,\nalternately, silver solution and ammonia, until\nthe whole of the 4 oz. of silver solution has\nbeen used, and the mixture has still some of\nthe brown oxide in suspension. This solution\nshould be filtered, and when wanted for use,\nmix the two solutions together and add 12 oz.\nwater. The plate glass, having been thoroughly\ncleaned, must be laid, face downward, on the\nsolution, and in from twenty to thirty minutes\nthe plate will be silvered. Of course, if you\nwish to silver a large plate, use more solution;\nor you may use the following Distilled water,\n6 oz.; nitrate of silver, 2^£ drm., to which add\nammonia carefully, until the precipitate is re-\ndissolved. Make a second solution containing\noz. caustic potash to 16 oz. water. Add this\nto the first solution, when a brown precipitate\nwill be formed, which must be redissolved by\nthe addition of the requisite quantity of ammo-\nnia, added carefully. Now add m, pt. water;\nto this add nitrate of silver until an insoluble\nprecipitate is formed. The solutions may then\nbe kept ready for use. When about to use it,\nmix with it one tenth of its volume of a solution\ncontaining 1 oz. milk sugar to 10 oz. water.\nThe great essential is to have the glass perfectly\nclean, otherwise the silvering will be patchy.\nW. J.Lancaster, in English Mechanic. Improved.\nSee silvering glass receipt, No. 2.\nCast Iron, to Silver.— 1. To silver cast iron, 15\ngrn. nitrate of silver are dissolved in 250 grn.\nwater, and 30 grn. cyanide of potassium are ad-\nded; when the solution is complete, the liquid is\npoured into 700 grn. water wherein 15 grn. com-\nmon suit have been previously dissolved. The\ncast iron intended to be silvered by this solu-\ntion should, after having been well cleaned, be\nplaced for a few minutes in a bath of nitric\nacid of 1*2 sp. gr. just before being placed in\nthe silvering fluid.\n2. A new process for silvering articles of iron\nis thus described. The article is first plunged\nin a pickle of hot dilute hydrochloric acid,\nwhence it is removed to a solution of mercury\nnitrate, and connected with the zinc pole of a\nBunsen element, gas carbon or platinum\nserving as the other pole. It is rapidly cov-\nered with a layer of quicksilver, when it is re-\nmoved, washed, and transferred to a silver\nbath and silvered. By heating to 300° C. (572°\nFah.) the mercury is driven off, and the silver\nfirmly fixed on the iron. To save silver the\nwire can be first covered with a layer of tin.\nOne part of cream of tartar is dissolved in\neight parts of boiling Avater, and one or more\ntin anodes are joined with the carbon pole of a\nBunsen element. The zinc pole communicates\nwith a well cleaned piece of copper, and the\nbattery is made to act till enough tin has de-\nposited on the copper, when this is taken out\nand the ironware put in its place. The wire\nthus covered with tin chemically pure, and\nsilvered, is said to be much cheaper than any\nother silvered metals.\nIvory, to Silver.— Take a small piece of nitrate\nof silver, and pound it in a mortar. Add some\nsoft water to it, mix thoroughly and put in a\nbottle. Place the ivory article to be silvered in\nthis solution, allow it to remain until it is of a\ndeep yellow color. Put it then in clear water\nand place in the sun. If desired to draw any\nfigure or name upon the ivory, it may be done\nwith a camel s hair pencil, dipped in the solu-\ntion. Wash well with water after the drawing\nhas become a deep yellow, and put in the sun-\nlight, occasionally wetting with clean water..\nRub it after it has turned a deep black color,\nand it will change to a brilliant silver.\n2. Make a weak solution of nitrate of silver,,\nimmerse the ivory in it, and allow it to remain,\nuntil the solution gives it a deep yellow color.\nImmerse in clear water, and expose it in the\nwater to the sun. It becomes black in about\nthree hours The black surface becomes bril-\nliant silver by rubbing.\nSilver Leaf, Varnished.— Use first, prepared\nox gall; next, isinglass; then, alum, to kill the\nformer; finish with hard white lac.\nMetals, Silvering of. -Small articles may easi-\nly be coated with silver by dipping them first\ninto a solution of common salt, and rubbing\nwith a mixture of one part of precipitated\nchloride of silver, two parts of potassa alum,\neight parts of common salt, and the same\nquantity of cream of tartar. The article is\nthen washed and dried with a soft rag.\nPlaster, to Silver.— Ordinary plaster models\nare covered with a thin coat of mica powder,\nwhich perfectly replaces the ordinary metal-\nlic substances. The mica plates are first clean-\ned and bleached by fire, boiled in hydrochloric\nacid, and washed and dried. The material is\nthen finely powdered, sifted, and mingled with\ncollodion, which serves as a vehicle for apply-\ning the compound with a paint brush. The\nobjects thus prepared can be washed in water,\nand are not liable to be injured by sulphureted\nacids or dust. The collodion adheres perfectly\nto glass, porcelain, wood, metals, or papier\nmache.\nPlating Pastes.— 1. Nitrate of silver, 2 parts;\nsalt, 2 parts; cream of tartar, 14 parts. Pulverize\nand mix.\n2. For thin plating dissolve in 10 or 12 drops\nof water and add nitrate of silver, 2 parts; cya-\nnide of potassium, 6 parts. Rub on the object.\n3. One oz. of nitric .acid is put in a glazed\nearthen vessel and placed over a slowly heating\nfire, and as it boils instantly the pieces of real\nsilver are thrown in and dissolved immediately.\nWhen this is done a large handful of salt is\nput in, which will kill the acid. Then the paste\nis made by the means of common whiting.\nClean the article to be plated and apply the\npaste with water and wash leather. Will keep\nfor years.\nPlating (Liquid Wash).— Dissolve 1 oz. crys-\nstals of silver nitrate in 12 oz. soft water, then\ndissolve in the water 2 oz. potassium cyanide.\nShake the whole together and let it stand\nuntil it becomes clear. Have readv some half\nounce vials and -fill them half full of Paris\nwhite or fine whiting and then fill up the bot-\ntles with the liquid and it is ready for use. The\nsilver coating is not as tenacious to tho article\nas when electrolytically deposited. This is\nvery poisonous and shoukl be handled with\ngreat caution if at all.\nRibbons, Silvering of.— Make a solution of\nnitrate of silver and add a little gum to it, so\nthat the liquid will not run. Then with a cam-\nel s hair pencil or a new pen, draw any sort of\nornamental figure on the silk. After the draw-\ning is dry, hold the ribbon over a vessel con-\ntaining water, zinc and a little sulphuric acid.\nIn a short time the silver will be reduced and.\nadhere quite strongly to the fabric.\nArabesques, wreaths, etc., executed in this","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0520.jp2"},"517":{"fulltext":"Similor.\n505\nSkin.\nmanner have a pretty appearance.— Chronique\nIndustrielle.\nSilvering by Cold Rubbing.— Make paste by\nthoroughly grinding in a porcelain mortar, out\nof the light-\nWater 3 to 5 oz.\nChloride of silver 7 oz.\nPotassium oxalate 10)4 oz.\nSalt (common table) 15 oz.\nSal ammoniac 3% oz.\nOr—\nChloride of silver 314 oz.\nCream of tartar 7 oz.\nSalt (commou) 10)4 oz.\nWater, to form a paste.\nKeep in a covered vessel away from the light.\nApply with a cork or brush to the clean metal-\nlic (copper) surface, and allow the paste to dry.\nWhen rinsed in cold water the silver presents a\nfine frosted appearance, the brightness of\nwhich may be increased by a few seconds 1 im-\nmersion in dilute sulphuric acid or solution of\npotassium cyanide. The silvering bears the ac-\ntion of the wire brush and of the burnishing\ntool very well, and may also be oxidized.\nShould a first silvering not be found sufficiently\ndurable after scratch-brushing, a second or\nthird coat may be applied. This silvering is\nnot so adhering or white on pure copperas\nupon a gilt surface.\nFor the reflectors of lanterns the paste is\nrubbed upon the reflector with a fine linen pad;\nthen, with another rag, a thin paste of Spanish\nwhite or similar substance is spread over the\nreflector and left to dry Rubbing with a fine\nclean linen rag restores the luster and white-\nness of the silvered surface.\nThe paste is sometimes mixed directly with\nthe whiting and left to dry, or until nearly dry,\nthen rubbed down as described.\nSilvering Sh ells.— Grind silver leaf in gum\nwater to the required thickness, and apply to\nthe inside of the shell. For gold color grind\ngold leaf in gum water.\nSilver Size, Preparation of.— Put in a pan i%\noz. Spanish chalk, V% oz. Venetian soap, oz.\nbeeswax, and 9 oz. finely pulverized fat pipe-\nclay; roast thoroughly. Rub fine with the\nwhites of 40 eggs. Form the mass into small\nballs, dry upon a glass plate. To apply the\nsize, ti-iturate a piece with water, then put in a\nglass and. dilute with water. Brush the frame\nwith the dissolved size and let it dry before ap-\nplying another coat.\nWriting on Silver. See Inks.\nYellow on Silver.— Immerse the silver articles\nin a hot solution of concentrated cupric chlo-\nride.\nSimilor. See Alloys. (Mannheim Gold.)\nSirups. See Syrups.\nSize.— Obtained from glue, from the skins\nof animals, but is evaporated less and kept in a\nsoft state.\nBronzing Asphaltum.— Drying oil and tur-\npentine make an excellent size for this pur-\npose.\nAnti-Mildeiv Size.— (Whitehead.)— The mate-\nrials employed for sizing yarn, woven fab-\nrics, etc., may be rendered proof against mildew\nby the addition of a little mustard oil, or other\nvegetable oil, possessing antiseptic properties.\nAbout 4 oz. of oil to 1 gal. of size is usually suf-\nficient.\nBlack Gold Size— Triturate, 1 oz. gold size\nwith enough lampblack to form a dense color.\nThin with turpentine.\nSizing and Dressing Cotton, Wool, Straw, etc.\n—Glycerine for Sizing and Dressing.— 1. For\nwhite goods Glycerine, 5 parts; starch, 3H$\nparts.\n2. Glycerine, 3 parts; sulphate calcium, 7)4\nparts; kaolin, 13^ parts.\nCotton, Size for.— Beef bones, boiled in water\nfor some hours with rock salt and a little alum,\nyield a size which can be used in the prepara-\ntion of cotton and silk goods.\nOil Size.— Grind yellow ocher or burnt ocher\nwith boiled linseed oil, and thinned with tur-\npentine.\nCurrier s Size.— Sizing, 1)4 qt.; soft soap, 1*4\ngill; stuffing, 1)4 gills; sweet milk, pt.; boil the\nsizing in water to a proper consistency, strain\nand add the other materials. Mix thoroughly.\nGold Size.—l. (Oil size). Drying or boiled oil\nthickened with yellow ocher or calcined red\nocher, and carefully reduced to the utmost\nsmoothness by grinding. It is thinned with\noil of turpentine. Improves by age. Used for\noil gilding.\n2. (Water size). Parchment or isinglass size\nmixed with finely ground yellow ocher. Used\nin burnished or distemper gilding.\n3. Place boiled oil in a stone pot and place on\na gentle fire, and allow the heat to rise almost\nto the point of ignition, then set fire to it, and\nlet it burn until it is thick, then put on the\ncover to extinguish the flames. Now strain\nthrough silk and thin Avith turpentine.\n4. The following is highly recommended:\nHeat slowly 8 oz. best drying oil and just before\nit comes to a boil add 2 oz. gum animi, boil\nuntil of the consistence of tar, then strain\nthrough silk. A little finely ground vermilion\nmay be added if desired; thin with turpentine.\nDilute with oil of turpentine.\n5. Gold size is prepared from }4 lb. linseed oil\nwith 2 oz. gum animi; the latter is reduced to\npowder and gradually added to the oil while\nbeing heated in a flask, stirring it after every\naddition until the whole is dissolved; the mix-\nture is boiled until a small quantity, when taken\nout, is somewhat thicker than tar, and the\nwhole is strained through a coarse cloth. When\nused, it must be ground with as much vermil-\nion as will render it opaque, and at the same\ntime be diluted with oil of turpentine, so as to\nmake it work freely with the pencil.\nIvory Size or Jelly.— Boil ivory dust or ivory\nshavings in water. This forms a beautiful size\nor jelly.\nJapanners Gold Size.— Quarter lb. lead ace-\ntate, 4 lb. gum animi, gal. turpentine, 1 gal.\ndrying oil. Boil the gum in the oil for four\nhours, add the other materials and strain.\nPainters 1 Size. Boil raw oil in a pan till a\nblack smoke emits therefrom; then set it on a\nfire, and, after burning for a few minutes,\ncover the pan to put out the blaze; pour the\noil while warm into a bottle in which some pul-\nverized red lead and litharge have been intro-\nduced. Stand the bottle in a warm place for two\nweeks, shaking often. It will then be ready to\ndecant and bottle.\nParchment Size.— This consists of gutta\npercha softened and extended in ether. It\nfurnishes a preservative coating for pictures,\ncards, etc. Any extraneous matter is easily\nremoved by means of a damp cloth. Easily ef-\nf aceable charcoal or chalk drawings are fixed\nif this solution be distributed over their sur-\nface in fine spray. The ether evaporates and\nleaves the gutta percha, which forms an ex-\ntremely thin but protective coating over the\ndesign.— Science Record, 1874.\nSizing for Sign Work.— One of the best mor-\ndants or sizing for sign work is made by expos-\ning boiled linseed oil to a strong heat in a pan\nwhen it begins to smoke, set fire to the oil,\nallow it to burn a moment, and then suddenly\nextinguish it by covering the pan. When cold\nit will be ready for use, but will require thin-\nning with a little turpentine.\nSkin, The. See also Cosmetics, and the\nnumerous cross references given under Cos-\nmetics.\nBeautifying the Shin.— In the work on diseases\nof the skin, edited by Professor Von Ziemssen,\nDr. Heinreich Auspitz, of Vienna, makes the\nfollowing observations upon this subject:\n1. A healthy integument is not necessarily\nbeautiful. Even ii all requirements concern-\ning diet, residence, atmospheric and climatic\nconditions, etc., are carried out, the complex-","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0521.jp2"},"518":{"fulltext":"Skill.\n506\nSkin.\nion is often extremely bad. The general con-\ndition of health has no influence upon the beau-\nty of the complexion, though it has upon the\nhealth of the skin.\n2. Cleanliness is a sine qua non of the beauty\nof the complexion, though it does not play a\ngreat part in the health of the skin.\n3. Water is serviceable to the skin in only\nmoderate amounts and at moderate tempera-\ntures. Very cold or warm baths, when used to\nexcess, diminish the elasticity of the skin and\nits power of resistance to external irritants.\n4. Distilled and so-called soft waters are more\nsuitable for washing, and less irritating tban\nhard water.\n5. The hard soda soaps are usually preferable\nto the soft potash soaps for toilet purposes.\nThe quality of soaps depends upon the quality\nof their constituents and the thoroughness of\ntheir saponification. Good soaps must not con-\ntain free alkali or any foreign irritating sub-\nstance. The addition of moderate quantities\nof perfumes does not materially change the\nquality.\n6. Simple, finely ground powders, such as\nstarch, magnesia, etc., are entirely innocuous,\nand often act as a useful protection against ex-\nternal irritants.\n7. Frequent application of alcohol abstracts\nthe water of the skin, makes it dry and brittle,\nand impairs its nutrition. This is also true of\nglycerine. All toilet washes containing alco-\nhol to any considerable extent should be\navoided.\n8. This is true to a still greater extent of other\nadditions to washes, such as corrosive subli-\nmate, mineral acids, certain metallic salts, etc.\n9. Camphor acts merely as a bleaching\npowder. This is also true of benzoic resin, sul-\nphur flowers, and substances containing tan-\nnic acid.\n10. The use of sweet-smelling oils and fats\nshould be employed to a greater extent than is\nnow done for toilet purposes.\n11. This is particularly true with regard to\nthe growth of the hair. The nutrition of the\nscalp should be increased by the rational ap-\nplication of fat (for example in the form of oil\nbaths, by means of the application at night of\na sponge soaked in oil upon the scalp) and the\ngreater use of simple pomades. These should\nbe applied to the roots of the hair, rather than\nthe shafts.\n12. Substances should be avoided, or sparing-\nly used, which abstract water from the skin\nand the roots of the hair.\nFace, Blotched.— Rose water, 3 oz.; sulphate of\nzinc, 1 drm. Mix; wet the face with it; gently\ndry it, and then touch it over with cold cream,\nwhich also dry gently off.\nHands, to Clean.— Put lb. dauber s salt, J4\nlb. chloride of lime, and 8 oz. water into a little\nwide-mouthed bottle, and when required for\nuse pour some of the thick sediment into a\nsaucer and rub it well over the hands with a\nnail brush.\nHands, Glycerine Jellies for the.— The Pharm.\nEra gives the following formulas\n1. Tragacanth 60 grn\nGlycerine 2 oz.\nWater 4 oz.\nExtract of rose 6 drops.\nGelatine 2 drm.\nGlucose 1 oz.\nGlycerine 6 oz.\nWater. 3 oz.\nOil of rose 5 drops.\nHands, to Keep Soft-\nUse before retiring.—\nGlycerine 1 oz.\nBay rum 3 oz.\nOil cajeput drm.\nOilbergamot J^ drm.\nMix well.\nTake 4 parts glycerine* 5 parts yelk of egg;\nmix thoroughly and rub on after washing the\nhands. A little lemon juice will also assist to\nwhiten the hands.\nHands, to Whiten the.— Take a wineglassful\nof eau de cologne and another of lemon juice;\nthen scrape two cakes brown Windsor soap to\na powder and mix well in a mould. When\nhard, it will be excellent for whitening the\nhands.\nIrritable Skin.— Irritable skin must be pro-\ntected as much as possible from the changes of\ntemperature. In warm weather, lotions of salt\nand water, or of alum and water should be\nused. If the parts are tingling or feel congest-\ned, a lotion of hydrocyanic acid, 1 drm.; water,\n1 oz.; may be used occasionally. What is\nwanted most of all to remedy in a physiological\nmanner this condition is a very powerful as-\ntringent, which will not stain or injure the\nskin. Unfortunately no such drug is at present\nknown.\nPerhaps the best substitute for this desidera-\ntum, beside those mentioned, are—\n1. Sulphate of iron 1 drm.\nWater 1 oz.\nOr, make a mixture of crushed ice and salt,\nboth powdered very fine place this in a muslin\nbag, suspended in a cool place over a vessel.\nWhen a sufficient quantity of liquid has\ndropped into the latter, add powdered alum— 1\npart to 4 of liquid. This is a cold astringent.\nIt should be kept in a stone bottle, and in a cool\nplace.\n2. Crushed ice 4 parts.\nCommon salt 4 parts.\nPowdered alum 2 parts.\nSulphate of iron may be substituted for the\nalum or—\n3. Common salt 1 part.\nNitrate of potash 1 part.\nHydrochlorate of ammonia 1 part.\nWater— sufficient to dissolve the powders.\nThis too, is a very cold application, and may\nbe kept in the same manner as the preceding.\nAn easy method of cooling and softening the\nheated skin is to bathe it in milk in which ice\nhas been dissolved, or the milk may be iced in a\nrefrigerator; either of these, too, may have\nalum dissolved in them, as directed above.\nThe following is a simple astringent prepara-\ntion\n4. Tannin 1 drm.\nInfusion of catechu 1 oz.\nDecoction of oak bark 1 oz.\nIt should, however, not be used to pale skins,\nas it leaves a temporary stain, but it will be\nfound of service when the skin is of such a\ndark color that this becomes of no consequence.\nSkin, Marks on the. Discoloration. Res-\nidents in hot climates who are of a dark com-\nplexion often find, after having been in England\nfor a few years, that the face skin becomes\nmottled in appearance, patches of light alter-\nnating with patches of dark color. Treatment\nApply nightly to the dark patches\nEmulsion of bitter almonds 1 pt.\nOxymuriate of mercury 2J^ grns.\nSal ammoniac 1 drm.\nOr touch them with crystals of saltpeter\nmoistened with water.\nNoevus, commonly called mother s marks or\nport wine mark, is caused by the dilatation\nand increased growth of the small blood vessels\nof the skin. This may be arterial, venous or\ncapillary. In size naevi vary from a pin s\nhead to nearly the whole extent of the face.\nNo patient should himself operate on a naevus\ngreater in circumference than a small pea. The\nsimplest method of removal is by means of\nconcentrated nitric or hydrochloric acid. A\nmatch or similar piece of wood should have\none end bitten out into a form of brush; this\nshould be dipped into the acid, and one large","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0522.jp2"},"519":{"fulltext":"Skin.\n50T\nSkins.\ndrop placed on the nasvus, the skin around\nwhich should be thickly covered with lard.\nThe acid should be brought into contact with\nthe whole extent of the nasvus. Then, over the\nscab formed, may be laid the following paste\nCarbonate of bismuth 1 part.\nGlycerine 1 part.\nExtract of belladonna 1 part.\nHydrocyanic acid 1 part.\nThe use of the acid causes a good deal of pain,\nbut it is a very effectual method of removal.\nA certain amount of inflammation is sure to\nfollow any operation on a nasvus, but when the\nlatter is of small extent this is seldom of a vio-\nlent character and the formula given will prove\na sufficient remedy. After three days the paste\nmay be gently washed off with warm water,\nand the following preparation gently but ef-\nfectually rubbed into the scab, over which a\nthickish layer should be afterward placed and\nthe whole covered by court plaster. Common\ncream, 1 part; white wax. 2 parts; glycerine,\n1 part spermaceti, 1 part. The scab should\nnow be allowed to fall off without further in-\nterference. Another method of removing\nnasvi is to keep them constantly moistened\nwith a very dilute acid solution. One oz. dilute\nnitric acid to 4 oz. water. If an operation be\nobjected to, and the patient wishes to hide the\ndeformity, the following will be found a harm-\nless effectual paint. If properly made it should\ndry like enamel and not crack: Wood char-\ncoal, 1 part; carmine, 1 part; chalk, 10 parts;\nglycerine, 3 parts; flexible collodion, 8 parts;\nrectified spirits, 2 parts^ The color of this may\nbe varied by the relative amounts of carbon,\nchalk and carmine used. Another and a simpler\nmethod is to powder the nasvus, say of a\nwhite color, and then apply a layer of flexible\ncollodion. The nasvus should be moistened\nbefore the powder is applied.\nShin, Pallid. This is generally only a local in-\ndication of a general condition, and that condi-\ntion is debility. There may be no apparent\nphysical weakness, but, nevertheless, the sys-\ntem lacks that tone which is essential to the\nproper performance of those bodily functions\nthe integrity of which constitutes health.\nAnasmiais often present. The causes may, at\ntheir commencement, be 1, dissipation, study,\nor any excessive demand on the nervous cen-\nters; 2, loss of blood or other vital fluids; 3, in-\nsufficient supply of food or oxygen. In any\ncase the nervous centers become affected. As\nlocal measures for the treatment of pallid skin,\ncold bathing may be recommended, followed\nby friction with a soft towel. The following\nmay be used for the cheeks: Dilute liquid am-\nmonia, 1 oz.; glycerine, 2 oz.; water, 4 oz. This\nshould be applied once daily for about three\nminutes, being well worked into the skin,\nafterward a soft towel should be used for three\nor four minutes. If any irritation follows, the\nglycerine may be doubled in Quantity.\nThin Skin. Sometimes the epidermis is so\nthin that blisters arise from the slightest irri-\ntation. Treatment Bathe the skin with—\nRectified alcohol 2 parts.\nGlycerine 1 part.\nWater 2 parts.\nThis is to thicken and harden the epidermis.\nRedness of Skin.— Red spots, with ray-like\nblood vessels seemingly issuing from their cen-\nters, are a species of nasvus, and may be treated\nin the same way. Sometimes great numbers\nappear on the cheeks; they are then very\nsmall, and frequently connected over the\nwhole surface of the skin by red lines, which\nmark the course of dilated blood vessels. This\ncondition is most frequently seen in patients\nsuffering from heart or lung disease, and is due\nto impeded circulation and consequent con-\ngestion of the blood vessels. Let the face be\nwashed twice daily in warm water, and after-\nwards well rubbed. Dry friction with a soft\ntowel should be freely practiced. The follow-\ning will be of service if applied once daily:\nChloride of lime, 1 oz.; warm water, 12 oz.\nRedness may be due to plethora of full blood-\nedness. The whole skin of the face is then of\na reddish tint, and subject to flushing; the\neyes are moist. The patient frequently sub-\nject to fits of profuse perspiration and attacks\nof nose bleeding.\nTreatment: This must be constitutional.\nLocally, the following cooling washes may be\nused as often as desired\n1. Carbonate of soda 1 part.\nPrepared chalk 1 part.\nBorax 1 part.\nGlycerine 3 parts.\nOatmeal water. 6 parts.\nDrunkards and gluttons very frequently\nsuffer from enlargement or hypertrophy of\nthe nose. The latter condition is commonly\nknown as cauliflower or carbuncle nose.\nIn addition, most of those who are much ad-\ndicted to the pleasures of the table exhibit a\nphysiognomy characterized by a full, plethoric,\npurplish color of skin; these individuals are\ncommonly said to be bloated.\nTreatment: Rich living must be forsworn,\nand a plain, nutritious dietary substituted.\nConstitutional treatment will also be necessary.\nWith regard to cauliflower nose, the best\ntreatment is the surgeon s knife but if this is\nobjected to, the patient must rely on internal\nremedies, with the following local application\n2. Iodide of potassium 30 grn.\nBromide of potassium 30 grn.\nExtract of belladonna 80 grn.\nLard 1J4 oz.\nThis may be applied nightly, being well rub-\nbed into the skin of the enlarged parts. Fre-\nquent bathing in cold water and subsequent\ndry friction will assist in promoting absorp-\ntion.\nThe unsightly appearance of the skin may be\nimproved by using.\n3. White wax 1 part.\nBorax 1 part.\nPrepared chalk 2 parts.\nJuice of bitter almonds 1 part.\nOatmeal water 2 parts.\n4. Glycerine 8 parts.\nStarch 1 part.\nChalk 4 parts.\nCarbonate of soda 2 parts.\nOatmeal water 3 parts.\nThese may be freely used.\nSkins. Skins, to Dye. See Dyeing.\nSheepskin Mats, to Prepare. See Mats.\nSkins, to Prepare for Fur.— Mix bran and soft\nwater sufficient to cover the skins. Immerse\nthe latter and keep them covered for twenty-\nfour hours; then remove, wash clean, and care-\nfully scrape off all flesh. To 1 gal. of water\n(hot) add 1 lb. of alum and y± lb. of salt. When\ndissolved and cool enough to admit entrance\nof the hand, immerse the skins for twenty-four\nhours, dry in the shade, and rub. Stir the\nliquor again, immerse the skins for twenty-\nfour hours, dry, and rub as before immerse\nfor twenty-four hours in oatmeal and warm\nwater, partially dry in the shade, and finally\nrub until entirely dry. This leaves the skin\nlike white leather, and fit for immediate use.\nSkins, to Preserve (as a Mole Skin). Suppos-\ning the skins are dry, they should be softened\nthroughout by soaking in pure water; soft\nwater is best, but any ordinarily pure water\nmay be used, and care must be taken that the\nskins are thus soaked only a sufficient time to\nsoften them. Then clean off any bits of flesh\nthat may remain on the flesh side, rinse all\nwell, shake off the loose water, and gently\nstretch out and tack on a board, flesh side up.\nThen sprinkle with a mixture of powdered\nalum and salt, about alum and salt, enougn\nto just cover every part. As the skin dries it","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0523.jp2"},"520":{"fulltext":"Slate.\n508\nSoaps.\ntakes up the mixture, but if any be left on the\nsurface the second day, sprinkle on a little\nmore water, otherwise put on more alum and\nsalt, and sprinkle. Two to three days should\nbe sufficient for such small skins, the idea be-\ning to give the skin all of the alum and salt it\nwill take up, while in a moist condition. This\ntawing* process makes the hair firm, a gentle\nrubbing and beating softens the flesh side, and\nit is preserved from decay, although tawed\nskins are never calculated so stand much wet-\nting. This process is well adapted for all small\nskins, although those which are heavier re-\nquire more time, and the flesh sides are some-\ntimes folded together, and the skins rolled up.\nWhen the skins are f reshly taken off, no soak-\ning is needed, but more care is then called for\nin thoroughly washing off and cleaning them,\nand the first application of salt and alum\nshould be in the proportions of one half each.\nIt requires the judgment of a tanner to deal\nwith skins in a dry state which may have be-\ncome partly damaged before drying, and it\nrequires special knowledge also to tell whether\na dry skin is so damaged.\nSkins, to Remove the Odor of. Scrape off as\nmuch of the flesh and fat as possible with a\nblunt knife, and immerse then for forty-eight\nhours or more in the following solution Salt,\n4 lb.; alum, 1 lb..; water, just sufficient to dis-\nsolve. On removing wash in a weak solution\nof soda and water.\nSkills, to Tan. See Tanning\nSlate, Artificial Writing.— Fine sand, 41\nparts lampblack, 4 parts boiled linseed or cot-\nton seed oil, 5 parts. Boil thoroughly together.\nReduce the mixture by adding spirits of tur-\npentine, so that it may be easily applied to a\nthin piece of pasteboard. Give three coats,\ndrying between each coat finish by rubbing-\nsmooth, with a piece of cotton waste, soaked\nin spirits of turpentine. Makes excellent mem-\norandum books, etc. Use a slate pencil.\nSlate Work.— In the best work, slates\nare secured by copper nails. Iron nails dipped\nin boiled oil to prevent their corroding may\nbe used. The nails should have large heads,\nthin and flat, so that they may not prevent the\nslates from lying close. Every slate should be\nsecured with two nails; and in fastening, care\nshould be taken not to bend or strain the\nslates, or they will crack and fly under sudden\nchanges of temperature.\nSlate Roofs.— A square of slate or slating\nis 100 superficial ft. The lap of slates varies\nfrom 2 to 4 in. The pitch of a slate roof should\nnot be less than 1 in. in hight to 4 in. in\nlength*\nSlating for Blackboards. See Paints.\nSlip.— A mixture of clay and water.\nSmallpox Pitting. This may be pre-\nvented by covering the pystules with flexible\ncollodion. To remove the pitting Avhere it has\noccurred follow these directions: Wash the\nface every day for some minutes in hot water,\nthen rub the face with a soft towel until it is\naglow. Every morning use the following-\nwash\nDilute spirit of ammonia, 1 part glycerine,\n2 parts; water, 3 parts. Once daily rub the\nfollowing into the skin: Subnitrate of bis-\nmuth, 6 parts; powdered silica, 5 parts; cal-\ncium fluoride, T tj 5 of a part prepared lard, 7\nparts; spermaceti, 5 parts; olive oil, 2 parts.\nThis should be freely rubbed over the Avhole\nsurface of skin affected. Before retiring to\nrest, the ridges between the pits may be\npainted with a strong solution of iodide of\npotassium.\nSmelling Salts. See Salts, Smelling.\nSnuff Scents. Of the substances used,\nsingly and combined, to scent snuff, the follow-\ning may be mentioned as the principal\n1. Tonquin beans and their oil or essence.\n2. Ambergris, musk, civet, and their es-\nsences.\n3. Leaves of orchis f usca.\n4. Root and oil of calamus aromaticus.\n5. Powder and essence of orris root.\n6. Cedar wood, rhodium wood, sandal wood.\n7. Essences, essential oils, or ottos of berga-\nmot, cassia, cedra, cinnamon, cloves, lavender,\nlemon, orange flowers (neroli), rhodium, rose\ngeranium, roses (otto), etc.\nIn practice, a sufficient quantity of the pow-\nder, essence or oil, having been well mixed\nwith a little of the snuff, the perfumed mix-\nture is added to the whole quantity of snuff to-\nbe scented, and the mass is well stirred up and\nturned over. It is, lastly, passed or rubbed\nthrough a sieve to insure the perfect diffusion,\nof the scent through the whole mass.\n8. Oil of lemon, separately qualified with a.\nlittle oil of cassia, cloves, nutmegs, etc.\n9. Oil of bergamot 2 oz.\nNeroli l^j drm.\nOtto of roses drm.\nOil of rhodium ]/q drm.\n10. Oil of bergamot 2 oz.\nOil of lemon 1 oz.\nOil of lavender (English) y% oz.\nOil of verbena. 1 drm-\n11. To the last add-\nOil of cloves.\noz.\n12. Essence of tonquin bean 2 oz.\n.Essence of vanilla oz.\nEssence royale 1 drm.\nOil of cinnamon 1 drm.\nOtto of roses (or oil of rhodium) r ™T\n13. Essence of ambergris 114, oz.\nEssence of musk V/% oz.\nLiquor of ammonia (0*880-2) 1 fl. drm\nMany other like combinations are kept. A\nfew drops will scent several ounces of snuff.\nDiluted with ten to twenty times their bulk of\nrectified spirit, they form delightful scents\n(bouquets) for the handkerchief, etc.\nSoaps and Soap Making.— On the Manu-\nfacture of Soap in Small Quantities without\nBoiling.— Mr. W. J. Menzies, in the course of a\npaper on the above subject, printed in the\nChemist and Druggist of August 4, gives the\nfollowing practical recipe\nTake exactly 10 lb. of double refined 9\ncaustic soda powder (Greenbank), put it in\nany can or jar with 45 lb. (4^ gal.) of water, stir\nit once or twice, when it will dissolve imme-\ndiately and become quite hot; let it stand until\nthe lye thus made is cold. Weigh out and place\nin any convenient vessel for mixing, exactly\n75 lb. of clean grease, tallow, or oil (not mine-\nral oil). If grease or tallow be used, melt it\nslowly over the fire until it is liquid and just\nwarm say, temperature not over 100° F. If\noil be used, no heating is required. Pour the\nlye slowly into the melted grease or oil in a\nsmall stream continuously, at the same time\nstirring with a flat wooden stirrer about three\ninches broad; continue gently stirring until\nthe lye and grease are thoroughly combined\nand in appearance like honey. Do not stir too\nlong, or the mixture will separate itself again.\nThe time required varies som3what with the\nweather and the kind of tallow, grease, or oil\nused; from fifteen to twenty minutes will be\nenough. When the mixing is completed, pour\noff the liquid soap into any old square box for\na mould sufficiently large to hold it, previously\ndampening the sides with water so as to pre-\nvent the soap sticking. Wrap up the box well\nwith old blankets, or, better still, put it in a\nwarm place until the next day, when the box\nwill contain a block of 130 lb. of soap, which\ncan afterward be cut up with a wire. Kemember\nthe chief points in the above directions, which\nmust be exactly followed. The lye must be\nallowed to cool. If melted tallow or grease be\nused, it must not be more than warm. The ex-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0524.jp2"},"521":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n509\nSoaps.\nact weights of double refined 98% powdered\ncaustic soda and tallow or oil must be taken;\nalso the lye must be stirred into the grease, not\n.grease or oil added to the lye. If the grease or\ntallow used be not clean or contains salt it\nmust be rendered, or purified, previous to use,\nthat is to say, boiled with water, and allowed\nto become hard again to throw out the impui i-\nties. Any salt present will spoil the whole\noperation entirely, but discolored or rancid\ngrease or tallow is just as good as fresh for\nsoap making purposes.\nIf the soap turn out streaky and uneven it\nhas not been thoroughly mixed. If very sharp\nto the taste too much soda has been taken. If\nsoft, mild and greasy, too little soda has been\nused. In either case it must now be thrown\ninto a pan and brought to a boil with a little\nmore water, In the first case boiling is all that\nis necessary; in the other instances a very\nlittle oil or a very little more of the\ndouble refined powdered caustic soda must\nbe added to the water. These things will\nnever happen, however, if the directions\nare exactly followed, and after the soap has\nbeen made several times with the experience\nthus gained the process is extremely easy and\nthe result will be always a good batch of\nsoap. Beef tallow makes the hardest soap,\nmutton fat a rather softer soap; of oils, cotton\nseed is the cheapest and best, but the soap is\nmuch softer, lathering very freely indeed. Or-\ndinary household fat or dripping will make\na nice soap and in many places can be obtained\nat a very trifling cost, and in exchange for goods\nsold. Such grease, however, must be carefully\nexamined for salt, which it often contains. It\nwill be evident that any smaller quantity of\nsoap can be made at a time, according to the\nabove directions, by taking the ingredients in\nexact proportion. It is not advisable to make\nmore than double the quantity prescribed, as\nit is difficult to work more by hand. By making-\nsuccessive batches, however, a single person\ncan make two tons of soap in a day simply with\napparatus (pans, etc.) obtainable in any house-\nhold.\n.By adding a few drops of essential oil just\nwhen the mixing is completed a toilet soap is\nproduced. Oil of mirbane (artificial almond oil)\nis the cheapest, but the perfume is not nearly so\npleasant as real almond oil, citronella or oil of\ncloves. If made with clean grease or fallow or\nlight colored oil, the soap produced is quite\nwhite.\nSometimes a little coloring matter will make\nthe soap sell better, although of no better\nquality. Half an ounce of bichromate of potash\nash dissolved in the lye will give a green; 1 lb.\npalm oil melted with the tallow or oil, a yellow\ncolor; or a good brown can be got by burning\n^a lb. of sugar in a saucepan until black, then\ndissolving it in a pint of water, and adding it to\nthe melted tallow before mixing.\nA very cheap and good jelly soft soap can be\nmade with the above soap. Take 5 lb. of the\nhard soap, crush it down or cut it up into\nas small pieces as possible; put this into\na pan or boiler with 10 gal. of water if a\nstrong hard tallow soap; if an oil soap only\nhalf the quantity of Avater (five gallons^ just\nbring it to a boil, and stir well, to thoroughly\ndissolve all the pieces of hard soap; pour or\nladle it into any can, tub or barrel that is tight,\nand leave it to cool for two or three days. This\nwill give about 80 lb. of jelly soft soap, at an\nexceedingly small cost. Of course, if made\nfrom colored and scented hard soap it will be\na colored and scented jelly soap. This is a good\nway of working up the scraps and bits of soap\nafter cutting up. It can be sold with a good\nprofit at a very low figure and often as a sub-\nstitute for regular soft soap. It is a very differ-\nent article, however, to a real potash soft soap,\nwhich should invariably be used for washing\nwoolens. It is possible to produce this real\npotash soft soap in the cold by a somewhat\nsimilar process to the above.\nBoiling Soap.— The Paste.— This operation is\nto produce a preliminary combination of fat\nand ley. Some soap makers use during the\nwhole operation a ley of the same strength,\nwhile others commence with a weak ley, then\nuse one of middle strength, and finish with a\nstrong one. In the fir=t case, a ley is employed\nof 10° to 15° B. In the second, of 7° to 10°, 15°\nto 18°, and 18° to 25° B., successively. In some\ncases, as for red oil soap, very strong leys are\nemployed, say of 25° to 30° B.; usually the fat is\nfirst put in the pan and then the le}^ is added.\nFor the paste operation no leys should be used\ncontaining foreign salts, such as are found in\ninferior kinds of soda, for it is then very diffi-\ncult to form a union of the fats with the ley,\nand no good sud is obtained. But when the\nsoap has been separated from the ley by salt,\nleys containing salt may be used. In saponify-\ning red oil, salty leys may also be employed\nfrom the beginning. It is imperative in all op-\nerations that the ley should be caustic, because\ncarbonate of soda will not unite with fat. For\ntransforming 100 lb. of fat into soap, about 14\nlb. of caustic soda are necessary, but generally\nmore is employed, because the soda used is\nnever a pure hydrate of soda. The quantity of\nley taken is also differently regulated by the\nmanufacturers. Some add the whole amount\nof ley at the commencement, others add it\ngradually in small quantities. This last mode\nis preferable. From time to time, in order to\ntest it, a drop of the paste should be put on the\ntip of the tongue, when, if there is still free al-\nkali in it, a burning sensation will be produced,\nin which case the boiling must be continued\nuntil the soap gives a sweetish taste. More ley\nshould then be added, under constant stirring,\nuntil the entire quantity is consumed. At this\nstage the contents of the kettle are trans-\nformed into a homogeneous, clear liquid, in\nwhich neither ley nor fat can be discovered. If\nthe liquid is perfectly clear, it shows that the\nright proportion of fat and ley has been ap-\nplied. Should saponification progress too\nslowly, a weak ley of from 1° to 2° B. may be\nadded, and soap scraps will facilitate the com-\nbination of the fat with the alkali. By heating\nwith an open fire, it sometimes happens that a\nportion of the paste, when it thickens, sticks\nto the bottom of the vessel and burns. This is\nindicated by a black smoke passing off here\nand there with the vapor. When this occurs,\nthe fire should forthwith be reduced, and some\ngallons of the strongest ley added to prevent\nfurther mischief. By this means a slight sep-\naration of the soap from the ley is occasioned,\nand the contact between the former and the\nmetallic surface destroyed. In all cases the\npaste operation is complete, when, on taking\nout the stirring rod, the paste no longer drops\nfrom it, but slides down in long threads.\nCutting Up the Pan.— This is done by stirring\ninto the ingredients of the soap kettle either\nsoda ley containing salt, or a solution of salt, or\ndry salt. The separation is founded upon the\ninsolubility of the soap in brine or strong caus-\ntic leys, whereas weak leys would dissolve it.\nOf all soaps the cocoa nut oil is the most re-\nmarkable, for, being dissolved by a brine solu-\ntion, it is peculiarly serviceable for washing in\nsalt water, whence its name, marine soap. This\nsoap becomes so hard, that when separated\nfrom the glycerine, it cannot be cut with a\nknife, and consequently the salting operation\nshould not be performed, but the soap boiled\nin strong ley with one water. The following is\nthe method by which the salting operation is\neffected One workman gradually adds the\nbrine or dry salt, while another agitates the\npaste with a stirring rod from below upward.\nThis is done under gentle boiling. It is essen-\ntial to add the salt in the right proportion; the\nwhole amount requisite should not be stirred in\nat once, but in portions of about one sixth.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0525.jp2"},"522":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n510\nSoaps.\nAfter half of it has been dropped in, the soap\nshould be allowed to boil for about ten min-\nutes before any addition is made. According\nto concentration, 12 to 16 lb. of salt are neces-\nsary for 100 lb. of fat, to separate the formed\nsoap from the surplus of water, The separa-\ntion is perfect when the aqueous portion is ob-\nserved to run off from the curdy mass; when a\nsample is taken with a spatula, it is not of an\nadhesive character while hot; and when, on\nplacing some in the palm of the hand, and rub-\nbing it with the thumb, it hardens into firm\nscales. The termination of the process is also\nindicated when the surface splits up into sever-\nal fields, seperated from each other by deep\nfurrows, in which there is not the fresh and\nsoft appearance of froth, but of dry slabs. The\nfire should be extinguished when the soap,\nhitherto covered with froth and bubbles, sud-\ndenly sinks, and the froth breaks up into\nroundish massive grains, distinctly separated\nfrom each other and from the saline solution.\nThe salting being completed, let the mass re-\nmain quiet for several hours, and then the un-\nder ley may be drawn off by the faucet.\nClear Boiling.— This operation is to obtain\nhardness, consistency, and complete neutrality\nof the soap. Commence to boil the paste gently\nwith tolerably strong leys. Some manufactur-\ners proportion the quantity of ley to be used,\nand having put in the first, boil for eight hours\nor so, then draw off the ley, put in the second,\nboil again, draw off, and so on. Should the\nsoap, during the intervals, become too liquid,\nwhich may happen if a too weak ley has been ap-\nplied, some handf uls of salt must be added, or\nthe soap boiled with a weak ley containing salt.\nAfter each addition of ley, there should be, in\ntaking up a portion by the spatula, some diffi-\nculty in running off the ley. Should this not be\nthe case, water must be added, whereupon a\nquicker union of the alkali with the fat will be\nobtained. The process is terminated when\nlarge, regular, and dry scales appear on the sur-\nface, and when these give elastic, brilliant,\nwhite scales, and are easily pulverized by rub-\nbing them in the palms of the hands. The soap\nshould then be covered, left for some time, and\neventually removed in the ladles.\nOf the principal varieties are\nAlmond Soap.— A toilet soap made of almond\noil and soda.\nCastile Soap, Spanish Soap, Marseilles Soap.—\nSoap chiefly imported, made of olive oil and\nsoda. It occurs both in the white and mottled\nstate; the former being said to be the purest;\nthe latter the strongest. It is the hard soap\n(sapo, sapo durus) of the pharmacopoeias. It\nis chiefly used in medicine and the toilet.\nCurd Soap.— Made of tallow or suet (chiefly)\nand soda.\nMottled Soap (commercial).— Made of refuse\nkitchen fat (chiefly) and soda.\nNaples Soap.— Made of olive oil and potash.\nOlive Oil Soap.— Castile soap (vide supra).\nPalm Soap, Palm Oil Soap, Violet Soap (com-\nmercial).— Made of palm oil and soda. It has an\nagreeable odor of violets.\nSoft Soap.— 1. (Commercial). A dark, strong,\nfetid soap, made of whale, seal, or cod oil, tal-\nlow, and potash.\n2. Soft Olive Oil Soap, Medicinal or Toilet\nSoft Soap.— Soap made of olive oil and potash.\nIt is yellowish white, inodorous, and of the\nconsistence of thick honey. It is the soft soap\n(sapo mollis) of the pharmacopoeias.\n3. White Soft Soap. —Soap made of lard and\npotash. Only used in cosmetics and as a toilet\nsoap.\nToilet Soaps.— Any of the preceding milder\nsoaps, taken singly or mixed, and variously\nscented and colored.\nYellow Soap, Rosin Soap.— Made of tallow,\nrosin, and soda. Palm oil, when cheap, often\nreplaces the tallow, or a portion of it.\nAgricultural Soap (whale oil soap).— Soda lye\n30° B., \\y part: whale oil foot, 3 parts. Make\nby the cold process. Used for destroying in-\nsects on plants.\nWhite Alabaster Soap.— Stearin, 6^ lb.; cocoa\nnut oil, 11 lb.; glycerine, lb.; lye of 38° B.,\n9 lb.; alcohol of 96^, 13 lb. The stearin and co-\ncoa nut oil should be saponified by heating with\nthe lye to 178° F., then the alcohol should be\nadded. When these combine, add the glycerine.\nAfter the soap becomes clear, let it cool to 133°\nF., when it may be put in the frames. Perfume\nwith 2 oz. oil of bergamot, y% oz. oil of gera-\nnium, 7 drm. oil of neroli, f^ oz. oil of lemon.\nAlmond Soap.— Oil of almonds by weight, 21\noz.; solution of caustic soda (sp. gr. 1*334) by\nweight, 10 oz. Add the lye to the oil in small\nportions, stirring frequently. Leave the mix-\nture for some days at a temperature of from\n64° to 68° F., stirring occasionally, and when it\nhas acquired the consistence of soft paste, put\nit into moulds till sufficiently solidified. It\nshould be exposed to the air for one or two\nmonths before using.\nBitter Almond Soap.—l. Pure white soap, 10\nkilos.; oil of bitter almonds, 120 grm. Not col-\nored.\n2. Or, white tallow soap, 56 lb.; oil of almonds,\n34 lb. For inferior kinds, nitro benzol is em-\nployed instead of oil of almonds.\n3. Best white tallow soap, y% cwt.; essence of\nbitter almonds, 10 oz.; as soap a la rose. Very\nfine.\n4. White curd soap 100 lb.\nOil of bitter almonds 20 oz.\nAmbergris. 1. Curd soap, 7 lb.; oil of cara-\nway, 34 oz essence of bergamot, y^ oz.; essence\nof ambergris, 34 oz.\n2. Crease perfumed with ambergris and\nmusk, 25 lb.; jasmine pomade, 10 lb.; rose\npomade, 10 lb.; gum tragacanth, 3 oz.; caus-\ntic soda ley, 33° B., 25 lb. Color light brown\nwith caramel. The musk and ambergris have\nto be added to the grease some weeks before\nmaking, frequently melting and stirring.\nAmmoniated Soap.— The subjoined formula is\ngiven by the Journal of the Society of Chemical\nIndustry. A soap is first formed in the usual\nway from the following ingredients Stearic\nacid 8 parts, cocoanut oil 4 parts, potash and\nsoda, of each 1 part; water, 6 parts. The soap\nwhen cold is cut into shavings, which are then\nplaced in a retort, in which they are subjected\nto the action of gaseous ammonia at a pressure\nof 15 lb. per square inch, until the soap has be-\ncome thoroughly impregnated with it.\nAntimonial Soap.— Pure white Castile soap in\npowder, V/% oz.; golden sulphide of antimony,\n2 dr.; solution of caustic potassa, 6 dr. Dissolve\nthe sulphide in the potash and add to the\nsoap; then triturate in a mortar until a stiff\npaste is formed. It should have a grayish white\ncolor.\nAntiseptic Soap (for preserving birds, ana-\ntomical preparations, animals, etc.)— 1. Curd\nsoap, 4 lb.; carbonate of potash, lb.; arsenic,\n1 lb.; camphor, }4 lb. Dissolve the soap with a\nvery little water, and add the other ingredients\npowdered and mixed together.\n2. Laurent s. Put in a bottle 1 oz. powdered\nsoap; 4 drm. arsenite of potassa; 4 drm. sul-\nphate of alumina; 4 drm. pulverized camphor;\nadd 12 oz. alcohol. Let the mixture stand\ntwenty-four hours; then add 6 drops oil of\nthyme and cork the bottle carefully.\nArsenical Soap.— Becoeur s.— 1. Arsenic, 5 oz.;\ncamphor, 634 drm.; white soap, 5 oz.; carbonate\nof potash, 15 oz.; air slaked lime, 5 oz.; made\ninto a stiff paste with a little water. Used in\npreparing the skins of birds and other small ani-\nmals.\n2. Arsenical soap is used by bird and animal\nstuffers to preserve the skins from the attacks\nof insects. It is prepared by the following for-\nmula: White soap, arsenious acid, and lime\nslaked by air, ot each 4 oz.; carbonate of soda,\n12 oz.; powdered camphor, oz. The whole of\nthese ingredients are worked up into a paste,.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0526.jp2"},"523":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n511\nSoaps.\nwith pestle and mortar, a small quantity of\nwater being added during the mixing.\n3. Arsenical Soap, Cosmetic— Arsenicated\nsoap.—\nArsenite of soda ^drm.\nSoft water (hot) V/% oz.\nDissolve, add the solution to-\nWhite Windsor soap (melted) 1 lb.\nMix thoroughly, and form the mass into small\ncakes. The whole process should be performed\nin glass, porcelain or stoneware. Used by some\nladies in fashionable life, under the idea that it\npromotes the softness, clearness, and general\nbeauty of the skin. Sometimes the solution is\nbeaten up with the soap (in shavings), instead\nof being added to it in the melted state, with or\nwithout the addition of 1 to 2 drm. of pow-\ndered camphor.\nArsenical soap is not recommended for toilet\npurposes.\nBeef Marrow Soap.— To 500 lb. beef marrow\nadd 250 lb. caustic soda lye of 36° B., stir con-\nstantly and gently, and heat the mass till it be-\ncomes soluble in water. In this state dilute\nwith 2,000 parts boiling water, and pour in 1,000\nparts brine (containing 180 parts common salt),\nwith constant stirring. After allowing some\ntime for repose, pour into the frames, and\nleave for a day or two to set thoroughly.\nBenzoin Soap.\nWhite curd soap 40 lb.\nTincture of benzoin 54 oz.\nThe soap must be in the form of a very stiff\npaste, otherwise the tincture of benzoin will\nrender it rather soft. Brown ocher may be\nused as the coloring agent.\nBergamot Soap.— Cocoa nut oil, 4 lb.; lard, 1\nlb.; soda lye of 40°, 2^ lb.; perfume with berga-\nmot oil, 1 oz.; oil of geranium, 2% drm.\nSoap Berry.— The fruit of a West Indian\nplant, sapindus saponaria. It is said to have a\nmuch greater cleansing power than the best\nsoap.\nBismarck Soap.— Cocoa nut oil, 13 lb.; castor\noil, 2 lb.; soda lye of 40° B., 7 lb. Perfume with\ncinnamon oil, 1% oz.; oil of cloves, 23^ drm.; oil\nof sassafras, 4 drm.; oil of bergamot, 2^ drm.;\noil of lemon, oz. Color with Bismarck brown\nto a dark color.\nBlack Soap, or Farrier s Soap, is a coarse kind\nof soft soap, made from fish oils and caustic\npotash; sometimes tar is added. Besides the\nsubstances above named, iodine, bromide, creo-\nsote, and many other chemical substances have\nbeen employed for making what are sometimes\ntermed skin soaps, but they are all prepared\nmuch in the same way as above indicated.\nThis is properly a crude soft soap made of\nfresh oil, tallow, and potash; but the following\nmixture is usually sold for it Soft soap, 7 lb.;\ntrain oil, 1 lb.; water 1 gal.; boil to a proper\nconsistence, adding ivory black or powdered\ncharcoal to color.\nBoracic Soap.— The marked cleansing powers\nof borax have been long recognized, as well as\nits utility in restoring health and vigor to the\ndiseased epidermis. The soap has already been\nconsiderably employed as a toilet remedy for\nitching, freckles and eruption, as well as for\nsecuring a clear and healthy complexion. At\nthe same time it forms a splendid shampooing\nsoap, cleansing the hair from excess of fat,\nfrom dandruff, etc., in a thorough and ex-\npeditious manner.\nBorax Soap.—l. Mr. Rowbottom produces\nborax dry soap, or soap powder, by adding bor-\nax to the usual carbonated or silicated ash or\nalkali, or other substance used in the manufac-\nture of dry or powder soaps For borax soft\nsoaps he adds a solution of borax to the ingred-\nients usually employed for making ordinary\nsoft soaps before or during the manufacture,\nor he dissolves by heat any ordinary soft soap\nin the borax solution, and incorporates the\nsame, after which the mass is allowed to cool\nin the usual manner.\n2. Borax (in fine powder) 1 oz.\nHoney or Windsor soap (recent).. 1 lb.\nMix by either beating them together in a\nmortar or by a gentle heat. Used to whiten\nand soften the skin, prevent chaps, etc. It is\nan excellent soap for raw or tender parts re-\nquiring washing, and will lather with hard\nwater. Like other soaps of the kind, it should\nnot be left or dipped in the water.\nBorax Soap Powder.—\nCurd soap in powder 5 parts.\nSoda ash 3 parts.\nSilicate of soda 2 parts.\nBorax, crude 1 part.\nEach ingredient is thoroughly dried and all\nmixed together by sifting.\nBorax Soft Soap.—\nWhite fats 100 lb.\nSoda ley, 15° B 100 lb.\nPotash ley, 10° B 60 lb.\nSolution of borax, 10° B 15 lb.\nThe soda ley is added to the melted grease\nand heated till it forms a clear liquid or is com-\nbined, when the potash ley and borax solution\nare added. It should be a semi-solid trans-\nlucent paste, and is usually sold in quart cans.\nBouquet. Savon au Bouquet. 1. This soap is\nprepared from the following: White curd\nsoap, 601b.; olive oil soap, 40 lb.; perfume with\noil of bergamot, 13 oz.; oil neroli, 1% oz.; oil of\ncloves, sassafras and thyme, each, 1*4 oz. Color\nwith brown ocher, 22 lb.\n2. Best tallow soap, 30 lb.; ess. of bergamot, 4\noz.; oils of cloves, sassafras and thyme, of each\n1 oz.; pure neroli, 3^oz.; finely powdered brown\nocher, 7 oz. Mix as last. Very fine.\n3. White tallow or lard soap 10 kilos. Perfume\nwith oil of bergamot, 15 grm.; neroli, 15 grm.;\nsassafras, 10 grm.; thyme, 10 grm. Color with\n100 grm. brown ocher. The oil of neroli may\nbe replaced by oil of lavender, and oil of\ncloves, 10 grm., may also be added.\n4. White curd soap (finest) 7^ lb.\nOlive oil soap 2)4 lb.\nOil of bergamot 1 oz.\nOil of cassia 1% drm.\nOil of cloves 1\\4 drm.\nOil of sassafras lj^j drm.\nOil of thyme drm.\nNeroli (or essence de petit grain) 1 drm.\nOcher (brown, levigated) 2 oz.\nAnd proceed as for almond soap (ante).\nHighly and agreeably fragrant. It may be\nvaried by substituting English oil of lavender\nfor the neroli. Some makers color it with\nburnt sugar instead of ocher.\nBran Soap.— -Add to good soap from 2 to 4 of\nbran.\nBubbles, Soap.— This receipt is given by Prof.\nJosiah P. Cooke 1. Procure a quart bottle of\nclear glass and some of the best white Castile\nsoap (or, still better, pure palm oil soap). Cut\nthe soap (about 4 oz.) into thin shavings, and,\nhaving put them into the bottle, fill it up with\ndistilled or rain water, and shake it well to-\ngether. Repeat the shaking until you get a\nsaturated solution of soap. If on standing, the\nsolution settles perfectly clear, you are pre-\npared for the next step; if not, pour off the\nliquid and add more water to the same shav-\nings and shake as before. The second trial will\nhardly fail to give you a clear solution. Then\nadd to two volumes of soap solution one vol-\nume of pure concentrated glycerin.— The New\nChemistry, p. 29. Grand soap bubbles can be\nblown with this preparation.\n2. Take olive oil soap (genuine white Castile),\ncut it into thin shavings, and dry thoroughly.\nDissolve these shavings in alcohol until the\nalcohol is saturated. The solution should show\na specific gravity of 0*88.\nMix glycerine with water until it shows a","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0527.jp2"},"524":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n512\nSoaps.\ndensity of 17*1° Baume. To 6 102 cubic inches\nof solution 3, add 1*52 cubic inches of solution 2,\nand boil until the alcohol is all expelled— until\nthe temperature rises above 212°. Cool and\nturn into a graduated flask, and add water\nto make the volume 6 102 cubic inches. Filter,\nif necessary, to remove oleate of lime.\n3. Cut up Castile soap into fine shavings, place\none part in a clean bottle with 40 parts of rain\nwater, and let it stand for a day with repeated\nshakings. Let it settle a few hours and pour\noff the clear solution; if necessary, filter\nthrough flannel.\n4. Dissolve some finely cut Castile soap in\nwater, and add a little glycerine. If distilled\nwater is used, take 50 grm. of the soap to H\nliter of water; when settled add one-half the\namount of glycerine.\nCamphor Soap.—l. Tallow curd soap, 50 lb.;\noil of rosemary, 234 lb.; camphor, 234 lb. Pow-\nder the camphor by triturating it with some\nalmond oil, and sift. When the soap is ready\nto put in the frame add the camphor and rose-\nmary oil.\n2. Spermaceti 4 oz.\nMelt it by a gentle heat, add of\nCamphor (cut small) 2 oz.\nAnd when dissolved, add the mixture to-\nWhite curd soap 6J^lb.\nCarbolic Acid Soap.—l. Half palm soap, 20 lb.;\nstarch, 1 lb.; carbolic acid in crystals, 1 oz.; oil\nof lavender, 2 oz.; oil of cloves, 1 oz. The car-\nbolic acid is added to the soap in a melted state\nand thoroughly incorporated.\n1. This is also made Into soap containing a va-\nriable amount of the agent up to 25 per cent.\nThe latter, specially suitable for surgeons use,\ncan. be prepared by mixing in a warm mortar\n75 parts of powdered stearin soap with 25 parts\nof pure carbolic acid and pressing the product\nin toilet soap forms; it lathers well and only\nslowly dissolves. A soap containing even so\nmuch carbolic acid can be used without any\ninjurious results for the hands, though, of\ncourse, it is not advisedly adapted for general\nuse.\nCastile, White.— 1. Olive oil, 40 parts ground\nsuet, 30 parts; tallow, 30 parts.\n2. Olive oil, 30 parts; lard, 30 parts; palm nut\noil, 40 parts.\n3. Oilve oil, 30 parts; cotton seed oil, 30 parts;\ntallow oil, 40 parts.\n4. Palm oil (bleached), 50 parts; sesame oil, 20\nparts; tallow, 30 parts.\nCastor Oil Soap.— This soap, prepared as be-\nlow, is said, by Mr. Hammer, to answer best\nfor, preparing soap liniment (linimentum sa-\nponis co.).\nSaponify 2 pt. of castor oil with 6 oz. of\ncaustic potash and 2 pt. of water, by heating\nuntil a transparent mixture is obtained; then\nadd a saturated solution of 8 oz. of chloride of\nsodium, stir until cool, allow to subside for a\nday, decant the liquid portion, cut in pieces,\nand dry for use.\nChemical. Powdered fuller s earth, }4 oz.;\njust moisten with spirits of turpentine; add\nsalts of tartar, 3^ oz.; best potash, i^ oz.; work\nthe whole into a paste with a little soap. It is\nexcellent for removing grease spots.\nChinese Soap.— Saponify 60 lb. cocoanut oil\nwith 30 lb. of lye of 38° to 40° B. Perfume with\noil of Portugal, 1% oz.; oil of bergamot, 234 oz.;\noil of lemon, 1% oz.; tincture of musk, 6 oz.;\noil of patchouli, 3% drm.\nChlorinated Soap.— Powdered Castile soap, 11\noz., and dry chloride of lime, 1 oz., are beaten\ninto a mass with sufficient rectified spirit, hold-\ning in solution oil of verbena or ginger grass, 34\noz. The mass is then formed into flat tablets,\nand wrapped in thin sheet gutta percha.\nCinnamon Soap.\nWhite curd soap 60 lb.\nPalm oil soap 40 lb.\nColor with 2 lb. of yellow ocher and perfume\nwith—\nOil of cinnamon 14 oz.\nOil of sassafras 23^ oz.\nOil of bergamot. 23^ oz.\n2. Pure palm soap, 5 kilos.; tallow soap, 5\nkilos. Perfume with oil of Chinese cinnamon,\n80 grm.; sassafras, 20 grm.; bergamot, 30 grm.\nColor with 80 grm. yellow ocher and 20 grm.\nburnt sienna. For inf erior descriptions, oil of\ncassia is used instead of oil of cinnamon.\n3. Best tallow soap, 30 lb.; best palm oil soap,\n20 lb.; essence of cinnamon, 7oz.; essence of\nsassafras and bergamot, of eachl34oz.; finely\npowdered yellow ocher, 1 lb. Mix as soap a 2a\nrose. Very fine.\n4. White curd soap (finest) 6 lb.\nPalm oil soap (finest) 3J^ lb.\nOlive oil soap 1 lb.\nOil of cinnamon. V/% oz.\nOil of bergamot J4 oz.\nOil of sassafras 34 oz.\nOil of lavender (English) 1 dru\nYellow ocher (levigated) 34 lb.\nCitron Soap.— Curd soap, 6 lb otto citron\nzestes, lb.; otto of verbena (lemon grass),\noz.; otto of bergamot, 4oz.; otto of lemon, 2oz.\nCocoanut Oil Soap. Put 50 lb. cocoanut oil\nand 50 lb. caustic soda lye of 27° Baume into a\nsoap kettle; boil and mix thoroughly for 1 or 2\nhours, until the paste gradually thickens; then\ndiminish the heat, but continue stirring till the\ncooling paste assumes a white, half solid mass;\nthen transfer quickly to the frames. A mix-\nture of equal parts of cocoa nut oil and tallow\nwill make a very fine filled soap. Cocoanut oil\nmixed with almost any fats, if they are not in\ntoo large proportions, will produce filled soaps.\nCod Liver Oil Soap.— 2 oz. cod liver oil; caustic\nsoda, 2 drm.; water, 5 drm.; dissolve the soda in\nthe water and mix it with the oil.\nCold Cream Soap.— Spermaceti soap, 25 lb.;\nwhite soap, 373^ lb.; caustic potash, 6°, 1}4 lb.;\ngum tragacanth, 23^ oz.; oil of almonds, lb.\nShred the soap, put in the hopper of the mill,\ndissolve the gum in a little water, and mix\nwith the lye and oil. Add this to the soap, and\ngrind. Perfume with oil of bitter almonds, 134\noz.; oil of cloves, 134 oz.; oil of bergamot, 6J4 oz.\nSavon de Crimec— White curd soap, 16 lb.;\npalm soap, 4 lb.; color with vermillion, 23^ drm.;\nbrown, ocher, 1 oz.; ivory black, y%, oz. Per-\nfume with oil of thyme, mint, rosemary, each\n1 oz.; oil of lavender, 2y% drm.; oil of cloves, 134\ndrm.; tincture of benzoin, V/% oz.\nCream Soap.— Take white, soft, lard potash\nsoap, recent, but moderately firm, and beat in\nsmall portions at a time, in a marble mortar,\nuntil it forms a white homogeneous mass; add\nsufficient essential oil of almonds, supported\nwith a little oil of bergamot, or of cassia, put\nin during the pounding.\nCroton Soap .—From croton oil and liquor of\npotassa equal parts; triturated together in a\nwarm mortar until they combine.\nDawson s Patent Composite.— Strong potash\nlye, 75 lb.; tallow, 75 lb.; cocoa nut oil, 25 lb.\nBoil until the compound is saponified in the\nusual manner.\nTo make thirty pounds of the new composi-\ntion, take 2 gal. boiling soft water in a kettle,\nadd 3^ lb. sal soda, 2 oz. borax, 2 tablespoonfuls\nspirits turpentine, and 1 teaspoonful linseed\noil. Stir this mixture until the borax and soda\nare dissolved; then add 15 lb. of the above soap,\nmade from lye, tallow and cocoa nut oil and\ncontinue the boiling with stirring for fifteen\nminutes, until the whole is Incorporated and\ndissolved. Now add 2 oz. spirits of hartshorn\nand stir. It may be scented with any essential\noil or odor, and colored, if desired; then run off\nand moulded into cakes fit for toilet use. It is\na good soap for chapped hands, and free from\nany disagreeable odor.\nDisinfecting Soap (Jeye s Improved).— Gas tar\nis distilled and the light oil rejected; 16 parts","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0528.jp2"},"525":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n513\nSoaps.\nof the heavier oil, 32 parts of cocoa nut oil, and\n16 parts of caustic soda at 35° B. are saponified\nin a jacketed pan, with or without the addition\nof rosin, and sodium sulphate and carbonate.\nDogs, a Soap for Washing, and other animals\nis sometimes made by mixing Stockholm tar\n(wood tar) with melted soap. The tar should\nfirst be dissolved in pyroxylic spirit (wood\nnaphtha).\nEgg Yelk Soap.— Cocoa nut oil, 8 lb.; tallow,\n8 lb.; yelks of 50 eggs added to olive oil, q. s. to\nmake 4 lb.; soda lye, 38° B., 8| lb. Perfume with\noil of lemon, 2 oz.; oil of cloves, }4 oz.; oil of\nsassafras, 134 oz. Color pale yellow. Good for\nthe complexion.\nEichhaum l s Soap.— In order to make a soap\nfrom strongly smelling fish fats, /F. Eichbaum\ntakes 400 kilos, of the fat, 25 kilos, raw palm oil,\n250 kilos, lye of 12° B., and warms up. A further\nsimilar amount of lye of 15° B. is added, and the\nthoroughly mixed mass allowed to boil till\nclear and free from scum, more lye being added\nwhen necessary. The mass is then poured in a\nthin stream through 20° lye, 50 kilos, powdered\nrosin are added gradually, and then 40 kilos, lye\nof 20°, and the mass boiled. When ready, the\nsoap is salted in the ordinary way. The addi-\ntion of the rosin is said to lessen the fishy smell\nconsiderably.\nElder Flower Soap.—\nHalf palm soap 100 lb.\nDextrine 3 lb.\nPerfume with—\nOil of bergamot 8 oz.\nOil of lavender. 2 oz.\nOil of thyme 2 oz.\nOil of cloves 1 oz.\nOil of cassia J^ oz.\nOil of almonds 3*£ oz.\nColor light green.\nErosive Soap.— To remove stains and grease\nfrtom clothing.— Two lb. good Castile soap, y%\nlb. carbonate of potash, dissolved in pt. hot\nwater. Cut the soap in thin slices, boil the\nsoap with the potash until it is thick enough to\nmould Into cakes; add alcohol, y oz.; camphor,\ny% oz.; hartshorn, oz.; color with y% oz. pul-\nverized charcoal.— Science Record, 1875.\nFlowers of Erin.— White curd soap, scented\nwith oil of roses, 1 drm.; spirits of violet, 3*6 fl.\noz.; spirits of jasmine, fl. oz.; spirits of pat-\nchouli, 34 fl. oz.; spirits of vanilla, 34 A. oz.\nTinged green or rose.\nFabrics, Soap for Removing Stains fro m\n1 2\nFatty acids 50 0 40 0\nPotash 11-5 9-5\nWater. 38 5 50 5\nThe soap should contain a slight excess of al-\nkali, but no resin (which hardens the fabrics),\nstarch or silicate should be present,\n3. This is prepared from a good white soap,\ncut into thin shavings. For 6 lb. of the soap\ntake one ox gall, and the whites of four eggs,\nand mix all the ingredients in a mortar, adding\n2 lb. powdered alum. When the whole has been\nwell incorporated, the mass is to be kept in a\ndamp place for twenty-four hours. It is said\nthat this soap finds much favor with scourers\nfor removing grease, etc.\nEssence of Soap.— Under this title various\npreparations are made; but they are all solu-\ntions of soap in warm alcohol, with, generally,\nthe addition of a small quantity of potash.\nSoaps made from vegetable oils are preferred,\nbecause they remain clear and liquid when cold,\nwhereas those prepared from animal fats be-\ncome solid in cooling. Dussauce gives the fol-\nlowing formula for preparing this soap\nWhite Marseilles soap 6^ oz.\nAlcohol at 85° 1 qt.\nPotash 6 drm.\nCut the soap into fine shavings, and put them\ninto a bottle holding about 3^ gal. (a Winchester\nbottle would suit admirably); add the alcohol\nand potash, and heat gently, without boiling,\nover a water bath; stir with a glass rod. When\nthe solution is complete, take it out of the\nwater bath, and add the essences. A very\nsweet perfume may be given to this prepara-\ntion by adding to it-\nOil of geranium iy drm.\nOil of verbena 2j| drm.\nTo color yellow, add 2)4 drm. saffron.\nThis essence continues limpid at the ordinary\ntemperature. To use it, pour a little into y 2\ntumbler of water and stir quickly.\nEssence de Savon Yienne.\nWhite soap 3 oz.\nCarbonate of potash 1 drm.\nAlcohol at 95° 18 oz.\nLavender water 6 oz.\nDigest and filtei\\\nEssence de Savon Corinthe.— Dry white soap,\n10 oz.; alcohol at 80°, 1 qt.; potash, 2 oz.; essen-\ntial oil, a few drops. Digest. Any perfumed\ntoilet soap may be converted into an essence;\nbut doubtless the white Castile soap would form\nthe most elegant preparation, besides being the\nmost emollient.\nEssence de Savon de Corinthe.—\nAlcohol 30° B 1 qt.\nDry white soap j 9 oz. 6\ndrm.\nPotassa j loz. 7\ndrm.\nEssential oil, for perfume j some\nI drops.\nRasp the soap, put it in a vessel with the al-\ncohol and heat together over a water bath, to\nperfect solution. Perfume with any desired\nessential oil. Add animal charcoal and filter\nwhen the whole is cold. Thus is obtained a\nliquid, marking 30° B., which lathers readily\nwith water.\nEssence de Savon d ltalie, a la Rose.—\nWhite soda soap 10 parts.\nAlcohol,34° B 34 parts.\nRose water 34 parts.\nDigest at a mild heat and filter. If orange\nflower water is substituted for rose water, an\nessence of corresponding odor is obtained.\nEukesis or Essence of Soap (for shaving).—\nShaving cream, 9 oz.; liquor potassa, 3 drm.;\nsweet oil of almonds, oz.; alcohol, 60°, l^\npt.; oil of pimento, drm.; oil of almond (es-\nsential), 13^ drm.; oil of bergamot, 3 drm.\nExtract of Soap.— Soap, 14 3 parts; anhydrous\nsoda, 30 parts; water, 55 parts. Manufactured\nfrom soda crystals and soda soap.\nFamily Soap. —Soda lye of 30° B., 2,500 parts;\ncocoa nut oil, 3,125 parts. Perfume with oil of\ncassia, 5 parts; oil of bergamot, 5 parts; oil of\nlemon, 2 parts; sassafras, 23^ parts.\nSavon aux Fleurs cVItalie— White tallow soap,\n20 lb.; perfume with oil of citronella, 13^ oz.;\noil of geranium, 3^ oz.; oil of verbena, 1 oz.; oii\nof mint, 23^ drm. Color with brown ocher,\n23^ oz.\nFloating Soaps.— Floating soaps can be pre-\npared according to various methods, of which\ntwo will suffice— the preparation from fresh\nmaterials and the preparation from trimmings\nfrom cocoa nut oil soap. This latter will pro-\nbably give a very welcome opportunity to\nmany manufacturers to advantageously dis-\npose of the heaps of trimmings often left over.\nThe following is a formula for preparing a\nwhite floating soap from fresh materials. The\ncolor of the soap will of course depend largely\non the quality of the oil used\nCocoa nut oil 88 lb.\nSoda lye, 38° B 46-2 lb.\nPotash lye, 25° B 2 2 lb.\nMelt the cocoa nut oil in the usual manner,\nfilter into capacious jacketed kettle, or one\nplaced in a water bath, and heat to about lSU","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0529.jp2"},"526":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n514\nSoaps,\nF„ Then add the lye, stir well for about ten\nminutes, and then cover up the kettle. Allow\nto saponify and then thoroughly stir again.\nThe soap will now have the appearance of fine\nwoolly grains.\nIn the foregoing process but little fire or\nsteam is necessary. Twenty-two pounds of\nwell warmed calcium chloride solution of 20° B.\nand 88 lb. of hot water are now gradually added,\nwith constant stirring to the curd in the kettle.\nThe soap is worked up thoroughly to complete\nsolution, but very little heat is required, as it is\nnot necessary to make the soap boil.\nAfter obtaining complete solution take a lye\ncylinder full of the soap solution from the\nkettle, allow it to cool to 77° F., and sink a lye\nhydrometer in the liquid, when this will indi-\ncate a density of 50° B. This particular degree\nwill yield a floating soap having a medium\nweight.\nThe soap solution is then allowed to cool to\n77° F., and a stirring kettle filled about\nfull with the cooled soap. This aqueous fluid\nmass is then stirred vigorously until trans-\nformed to a stiff foam and is then put into the\nflames at once.\nThe prescribed temperature of 77° F. must be\ncarefully adhered to, for if heated to a higher\ntemperature, say 100° F., or over, much more\ntime will be required to work up the liquid\ninto a permanent foam, and through the long\nstirring the foam would be so puffed out that\nthe resulting soap would be too light. On the\ncontrary, if allowed to cool too much, the soap\nobtained will be too heavy, because the forma-\ntion of the foam takes place too rapidly, and\nthe soap is not allowed sufficient time to swell\nin the kettle.\nFloating soap should not be dried in a warm\nroom nor in a drying oven, as, if this is done,\nthe soap will shrink a great deal and become\nfissured. It is better to allow the entire block\nas it comes out of the form to stand for sev-\neral weeks in an airy light place, then cut into\ntables, allow them to dry for several days, and\nthen cut up into bars or cakes.\nAnother process, that of making floating\nsoap from trimmings, is quite simple. For\ninstance, place 220 lb. of the trimmings or\nscraps from cocoa nut oil soap in a jacketed\nkettle or on a water bath. To dissolve this\nabout 33 lb. of potassium chloride solution of\n20° B., and about 132 to 154 lb. of water should\nbe added to the scraps in the kettle, the quan-\ntity of solution and water required being of\ncourse dependent on the degree to which the\nscraps have dried out.\nConsiderable heat is applied at first and the\nscraps diligently broken up to facilitate their\nsolution. Strips and cubes of soap should have\npreviously been passed through a planing ma-\nchine. When very old dry scraps are used, it\nwill frequently prove very difficult to effect\ntheir solution. In this case solution can be\naccelerated by strewing over the above quan-\ntity of soap from 2 to 4$£ lb. of salt.\nThe trimmings of cocoanut oil soap men-\ntioned in the above process should not be from\nfilled soap, as such, filled for instance with water\nglass and soda crystals, are not suitable for\nfloating soap. The material used for filling\nrenders the soap brittle and coarse, and when\ncut and planed the surfaces of the bars and\ncakes do not become smooth. When used in\ntoo large quantities, salt causes the same re-\nsult in floating soaps. These filling solutions\nhave also an influence when measuring the\ndegree of density of the soap solution.— Chem.\nTrade Journal.\n2. Good oil soap, 14 lb.; water, 3 pt. Melt to-\ngether by aid of steam or water bath, and as-\nsidiously beat together until the mixture has at\nleast doubled its volume. The capacity of the\npan for 14 lb. of soap should be about 18 gal.\nFrame and cool. The thickness of the soap in\nthe frames should not be more than 6 or 7\nin. In about a week or less it will be ready for\ncutting. Perfume as desired. Color with J^ tol\ndrm. of vermilion per lb.\n3. Good oil soap, }4 cwt.; water, gal. Melt\nby the heat of a steam or water bath in a pan\nfurnished with an agitator, which must be as-\nsidiously worked till the soap has at least\ndoubled its volume, when it must be put into\nthe frames, cooled and cut into pieces. Lathers\nwell and is very pleasant. Any scent may be\nadded.\n4. Olive oil or almond oil soap 5 lb.\nSoft water 134 pt.\nExpose them, in a bright copper pan, to a\nsteam or water heat, and assiduously beat and\nagitate the mixture until it has more than\ndoubled its volume, then pour it into a cold\nframe, cool it quickly, and, when hard, cut it in-\nto bars or cakes. It may be colored and scented\nat will. Floats on water, and lathers freely, but\nwill not bear soaking or much wet, as it rapidly\nsoftens.\nFrangipani. Curd soap previously colored\npink, 7 lb.; civet, 34 oz.; otto of neroli, )4, oz.;\notto of santal, 1^ oz.; otto of rose, 34 oz.; otto\nof vitivert, y% oz.\nFrench Formulae for Soaps.— The following\nformulae represent some of the fatty combina-\ntions used in different localities in France in the\nmanufacture of soap\n1. Oliveoil ...675 lb.\nEarth nut oil 675 lb.\nLard 900 lb.\n2,250 lb.\nThis produces a white, odorless soap.\n2. Bleached palm oil 1,575 lb.\nOil of sesame 450 lb.\nWhite tallow 225 lb.\n2,250 lb.\nProduces a very hard soap, of good quality,\nbut not so white as the above. It turns slightly\nyellow by keeping.\n3. Oliveoil.... 450 lb.\nWhite tallow 1,350 lb.\nEarth nut oil 450 lb.\n2,250 lb.\nThis is considered to form a very good soap,\nand superior to that of Marseilles, but unfor-\ntunately it has a faint smell of tallow, which\nrestricts its use in domestic economy.\n4. Olive oil 675 lb.\nCocoa nut oil 225 lb.\nLard 675 lb.\nTallow 675 lb.\n2,250~ lb.\nThis formula makes a good white soap, but\nthe presence of cocoa nut oil gives the soap a\ndisagreeable odor, although it improves its\nlathering properties.\nFulling Soap, or soap for cleansing and scour-\ning woolen fabrics, is a soft soap of the com-\nposition of—\n1. Fatty acids, 50*0; potash, 11*5; water, 38*5.\n2. Fatty acids, 40*0; potash, 9*5; water, 50*5.\nIt should contain a slight excess of alkali,\nbut no rosin, starch or silicate.\n3. For use in woolen manufacture a geunine\npotash oil soap has been found in practice su-\nperior to all others. Resin gives harshness to\nthe fiber of the wool, so must not be used.\nSoda also injures the suppleness of the wool,\nand should be discarded. The natural lubri-\ncant of wool, called suint, is a kind of pot-\nash soap, containing a bare trace of soda, Sili-\ncates also must not be used if present they\nare decomposed in the process of fulling, and\ndeposit free silica, which grates on the fiber\nand injures its luster.\nFuller s Earth Soap.— Curd soap, 103^ lb.;\nmarine soap, 33^ lb.; fuller s earth (baked), 14\nlb.; otto of French lavender, 2 oz.; otto of ori-\nganum, 1 oz.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0530.jp2"},"527":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n515\nSoaps.\nGall Soap.—l kilo, of galls is stirred in 25\nkilos, of melted cocoa nut oil, and saponified,\n•cold, with 22J/ 2 kilos, of soda lye (38° B.). Color\nwith 350 grm. ultramarine green. Perfume\nwith 75 grm. lavender oil and 75 grm. cummin\noil.\nGlycerine Soap.—l. Melt any mild soap, and\nmix glycerine intimately with it, in the\nproportion of 5 to of the weight of the\nsoap, to form plain glycerine soap.\nPerfume with oil of bergamot or rose gera-\nnium, mixed with a little oil of cassia, to which\nsometimes a little oil of bitter almonds may be\nadded.\n2. Tallow (mutton) .44 lb.\nCocoa nut oil 44 lb.\nCastor oil ...22 lb.\nGlycerine (pure) 22 lb.\nCaustic lye, 40° B 27 lb.\nAlcohol 96° ..48-4 lb.\nWater 9 9 lb.\nMelt the grease at 104° F., and add the alkali\nby slow degrees, keeping the heat low to pre-\nvent evaporation, and stir constantly. When\nthe lye has become absorbed, after three or\nfour hours stirring, add the alcohol, which\nshould be warmed stir until it becomes clear,\nthen add the glycerine, and when mixed, the\nwater and perfume.\n3. Liquid Glycerine Soap.— Oleic acid, 187 lb.;\ncocoa nut oil (best), 33 lb.; potash lye, 35° B.,\n114 lb.; glycerine, 10 lb. The ingredients are\nsaponified at a gentle heat, and sufficient alco-\nhol at 95° added to make the soap clear.\n4. Transparent Glycerine Soap.— Twenty lb.\nfresh tallow and 10 lb. best cocoa nut oil are\nheated at 167° F. On the other hand, 15 lb. of\nsolution of caustic soda, 40° B., or sp. gr.\n1*384, 121b. of 96% alcohol, 15 lb. of glycerine, 6\nlb. of brown sugar, and 2 lb. of water are mixed,\nlikewise heated to 167° F., and the mixture\ngradually mixed with the former, under brisk\nstirring. Saponification takes place in this\nmanner, without the necessity of boiling. The\nreaction is accompanied by a considerable in-\ncrease in bulk. It may then be covered, and\nafter it has become a little cooler, it may be\nscented finally, it is transferred to moulds,\nwhich must be so placed that the soap can con-\ngeal quickly.— New Remedies.\nGrease, to Preserve. To preserve soap grease,\nfill a cask half full of good strong lye and drop\nall refuse grease therein. Stir up the mixture\nonce a week.\nBordhardVs Herb Soap.—\nOlive oil soap 30 lb.\nPalm oil soap 20 lb.\nDextrine 2 lb.\nPerfume with\nOil of rosemary. 2 oz.\nOil of lavender 1}4 oz.\nOil of thyme V/ oz.\nOil of sage 1 oz.\nOil of magnolia 1 oz.\nOil of peppermint 1 oz.\nColor blue.\nHoney Soap.— White Marseilles soap, 4 oz.;\nhoney, 4 oz.; benzoin, 1 oz.; storax, oz. Mix\nwell in a marble mortar. When thoroughly\nmixed, melt over a water bath, pass through a\nfine sieve, and run into moulds. Divide into\ncakes.\nThe article commercially vended under this\nname rarely contains any honey. It may be\nprepared as follows\nPalm oil soap and olive oil of each 1 part,\ncurd soap 3 parts; melt together.\nPerfume with oil of verbena, rose geranium\nor ginger grass.\n2. Or, a neat yellow soap is mixed with 5%\nsodium carbonate, or silicate (59^° B), the\nwhole crutched, and perfumed with oil of cit-\nronella.\nIcMhyolis another preparation, which, hav-\ning earned a great reputation in the same class\nof remedies, has also been largely used as soap,\ncontaining 5$ of the sodium sulphichthyolate.\nIn this form ichthyol displays effectively its\ngreat power over affections due to or associated\nwith a dilated condition of the vascular system.\nThe soap is particularly prescribed in the treat-\nment of eczema and rosacea. It has been found\nto exert a marked beneficial influence upon\nredness of the skin, and particularly the con-\ndition known as red nose. The latter property\nis also ascribed to a soap containing camphor\n(about 5$), which is a mild stimulant to the\nskin.\nIodine Soap. 1. Make a solution of 1 part of\niodine of potassium in 3 parts of water to this\nadd, of pounded Castile soap, 16 parts; melt in\na porcelain vessel by the aid of a water bath.\n2. Castile soap (sliced), 1 lb.; potassium iodide,\n1 oz.; dissolved in 3 fl. oz. of water; melt them\ntogether in a porcelain vessel over a water bath.\n3. Ten kilos, cocoa nut oil, 5 kilos, lye (38° B.),\nand 1^ kilos, of potassium iodide, dissolved in\ny% kilo, of water.\nLabor Saving Soap.— To make it, take 2 lb.\nsal soda, 2 lb. yellow bar soap, 10 qt. water, or\nin like proportion. Cut the soap into thin\nslices and boil all together two hours and then\nstrain through a cloth into a tight box or tub;\nlet it cool and it is fit for use. Do not let it\nfreeze.\nTo use it, put the clothes to soak the night\nbefore you wash. The next morning put your\nwater into your kettle or boiler. To every\ntwo pails of water, add about one pound of the\nsoap. As soon as the water with its dissolved\nsoap begins to boil, wring out the clothes from\nthe water in which they had been at soak dur-\ning the night, and put them into the boiling\nwater without any rubbing. Let them boil one\nhour, then suds and rinse them and they will\nbe clean and white. They will need no rubbing\nexcept a little on such places as are soiled, and\nfor that no wash board will be required. The\nclothes should be rinsed in two waters.\nColored and woolen clothes must not be\nboiled as above, but may be washed in the suds\nweakened with water. The clothes will last\nlonger by the use of this soap and much labor\nwill be saved.\nSix pounds of sal soda, 6 lb. bar soap, and 30\nqt. water will make about 50 lb. of the soap.\nThe soda costs about eight cents a pound and\nthe bar soap eight cents a pound.\nA pint measure will hold a pound of the labor\nsaving soap. This will save the trouble of\nweighing every time.\nLard Soap. This soap is prepared by the\ncold process as follows: Melt 112 lb. lard by\ngentle heat and add half the lye prepared by\ndissolving 56 lb. caustic soda to mark 36° B.\nAgitate well without allowing the mixture to\nboil, and when it is thoroughly incorporated\nthe remainder of the lye is gradually intro-\nduced. The temperature is kept under 149° F.\nWhen the paste has sufficient consistence and\nhas no greasy feel when pressed between the\nfingers, it may be pressed into frames. The de-\nsired perfume is added while the soap is in the\npasty state. In about two days it will have be-\ncome sufficiently solid to be cut into tablets\nand pressed. This soap is very hard and of a\nbrilliant whiteness.\nLaundry Soaps. Soap to Clean Clothes\nWithout Rubbing.— Take 2 lb. sal soda, 2 lb.\nyellow bar soap and 10 qt. water. Cut the soap\nin thin slices, and boil together 2 hours; strain,\nand it will be fit for use. Put the clothes in\nsoak the night before you wash, and to every\npailful of water in which you boil them add 1\nlb. soap. They will need no rubbing, but mere] j r\nrinsing.\nSoap Leaves are prepared by passing contin-\nuous paper sheets over rollers through a hot\nsolution of soap, the excess of soap attached to\nthe surface being scraped off. The paper is","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0531.jp2"},"528":{"fulltext":"Soaps. 516\nSoaps.\nthen passed over drying cylinders and from\nthence to a cutting machine.\nLemon Soap.—\nWhite soap. 50 lb.\nStarch 2 lb.\nPerfume with\nOil of lemon 4 oz.\nOil of bergamot 2 oz.\nOil of lemon grass 2 oz.\nOil of cloves 1 oz.\nColor light yellow with cadmium yellow.\nLettuce Soap.\nLard with lettuce .20 lb.\nCassia pomade 10 lb.\nSpermaceti 5 lb.\nCastor oil 5 lb.\nPalm oil (bleached) 10 lb.\nCaustic ley, 36° B 26 lb.\nGum tragacanth 3 oz.\nPerfume with\nOil of bergamot 6 oz.\nOil of thyme 2 oz.\nOil of valerian 1 oz.\nOil of cloves 1 oz.\nColor, light green. The lard with lettuce is\nmade by melting the lard with its own weight\nof lettuce leaves, keeping it at the melting\npoint, about 90° F., for some hours or until the\nleaves have parted with their color and juice.\nThen steam off for use.\nLily Soap.— Wax soap, 1,500 parts starch, 150\nparts oil of bergamot, 8*4 parts oil of sandal\nwood, 34 part oil of geranium, 334 parts oil\nof cassia, part tincture of musk, \\y% part\ntonka bean, 1% part; tincture of storax, 5\nparts.\nLiquid Soaps (Kingzett s).— Kingzett prepares\nliquid soaps for employment as insecticides by\ndissolving rosin or crude turpentine in alcohol,\nand saponifying with potash. To this is added\nan alcoholic solution of a fatty acid soap and\nvarious disinfectants. Or, crude turpentine,\nor rosin may be dissolved in sanitas oil, or\nrosin spirit, or rosin oil, and then saponified by\ncaustic alkali solution of sp. gr. 1*300. Cam-\nphor is added to insure a permanently liquid\nproduct, and this may be medicated by addi-\ntion of thymol, etc. Or, petroleum spirit, or\nthymol, may be used instead of, or in conjunc-\ntion with, the sanitas oil mentioned in the last\npatent.\nLubricating Soap. Tallow, 1}4 part crude\npalm oil, 3 parts solution carbonate of soda,\n15°, m part melt.\nMacquer s Acid Soap. Castile soap, 4 oz.;\nsoften by heat and a little water add oil of\nvitriol, q. s., continually triturating the mass\nin a mortar. Detergent. Used where alkalies\nwould be prejudicial.\nSavon a la Marechale. Lard with musk, 10\nlb.; lard with amberette, 10 lb.; pomade (aux\nfleurs) cassia, jasmine and rose, of each 10 lb.\nolive oil, 1 lb.; white wax, 2 lb.; gum traga-\ncanth, 2 lb.; caustic ley, 36° B., 28 lb. Saponify\ncarefully and color with a little caramel (burnt\nsugar).\nMarine Soap.— Fuller s earth,40 parts; calcined\nsoda ash, 40 parts; cocoa nut oil soap, 80 parts,\nUsed for washing in sea water.\nMarshmallow Soap.\n1. White curd soap and palm oil\nsoap, of each 40 lb.\nColor with\nYellow ocher 4 oz.\nOrange mineral 4 oz.\nGamboge 1J4 oz.\nPerfume with\nOil of lavender. 10 oz.\nOil of lemon 2 oz.\nOil of neroli 2 oz.\nOil of verbena 10 oz.\nOil of mint 3 oz.\nOr, the following\nOil of Portugal 6 oz.\nOil of thyme 4 oz.\nOil of lavender 1J4 oz,\nOil of cinnamon 2 oz.\nOil of cloves 3 oz.\nThis soap may be colored rose wich vermil-\nion, or be left as a white soap if desired.\n2. Palm soap, 25 lb.; half palm soap, 25 lb.;\nperfume with oil of peppermint, J4 oz.; oil of\nlavender, 3 oz.; oil of lemon grass, 2 oz.; oil of\npetit grain, J4 oz.\nMedicinal.— See also Carbolic, Salol, Ichthyol\nSulphur, Boracic and Mercurial soaps.\nA series of medicinal soaps is made containing\nsuch essential oils as are possessed of antiseptic\nvirtues. Among these may be mentioned win-\ntergreen, pine and eucalyptus oils, while also\nthymol and terebene might be placed in the\nsame class. The first three may, perhaps, be\nconsidered more as hygienic toilet than medi-\ncinal soaps; they are particularly suitable as\npreventives of freckles, pimples, tan, chaps,,\netc., and for improving the complexion. The\nthymol soap (2-5 per cent.) has been employed\nto sweeten suppurating wounds and ulcers,\nand to treat herpes and other allied diseases it\nis a mild and agreeable antiseptic application.\nMetal Cleansing Soap.— Cut in small pieces 2\nlb. of cocoa nut oil soap put in sufficient\nwater to produce a thick, jelly-like mass when\nheated. Take 2 lb. red oxide of iron, mix with\nsome water.\nMetal Polishing Soap.— An excellent soap may\nbe made by mixing together 69 parts of kiesel-\nguhr and 30 parts of soft soap, coloring the\nmixture with 1 part of Armenian bole. The\npowders should be finely levigated before mix-\ning.\nMercurial Soaps are made by saponifying*\nmercurial ointment. Thus, 10 oz. of mercury\nare gradually incorporated with 2 oz. of mer-\ncurial ointment, so globules are no longer vis-\nible with a lens, then 1 lb. 2 oz. of soap (pow-\ndered) are added, and 2 oz. of lard.\nA soap can also be made to contain, say, 5 per\nmille of sublimate, which is useful in the treat-\nment of secondary syphilitic eruptions, of\nscabies, and of parasitical affections. Being free\nfrom unpleasant odor, it is preferable to some\nother antiseptic soaps. A preparation of this\nkind would also seem to be usef nl for cleansing\nthe coats of domestic animals.\n1. Sapo HydrargyrL— Dissolve 4 oz. of mer-\ncury in the same weight of nitric acid without\nheat melt in a porcelain basin, over a water\nbath, 18 oz. of veal suet, and add the solution,\nstirring the mixture till the union is complete.\nTo 5 oz. of this ointment add 2 oz. of solution of\ncaustic soda (sp. gr. 1*33) till a soap is formed\nwhich is completely soluable in water.\n2. Sapo Mercurial is.— Castile soap (in powder),.\n4 oz.; corrosive sublimate, 1 dr. dissolved in rec-\ntified spirit 1 oz. beat to a uniform mass in a\nmortar.\n3. Sapo Hydrargijri Precipitati Albi (Sir EL\nMarsh).— Beat 12 oz. of white Windsor soap in\na mortar, add 1 drm. of rectified spirit, 2 drm.\nof white precipitate, and 10 drops of otto of\nroses; beat the whole to a uniform paste.\n4. Sapo Hydrargyri Precipitati Rubri (Sir H.\nMarsh).— White Windsor soap, 2 oz.; nitrate of\nmercury (levigated), ldrm.; otto of roses, 6 or 8\ndrops, in rectified spirit 1 to -2 drm. beat to a\npaste.\n5. Mercurial Soap is made from powdered Cas-\ntile soap, 4 oz.; corrosive sublimate, 1 drm., dis-\nsolved in rectified spirit, 1 fl. oz. These ingre-\ndients are to be thoroughly mixed in a Wedg-\nwood mortar.\n6. Take of—\nCorrosive sublimate (crushed\nsmall) 1 drm.\nRectified spirit (to dissolve, say) 1 fl. oz.\nWhite Castile soap (in powder).. 4 oz.\nBeat them to a uniform mass in a Wedgwood-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0532.jp2"},"529":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n517\nSoaps.\nware mortar, adding a few drops of otto of\nroses or a mixture of the oils of cassia and bit-\nter almonds. Nothing metallic must touch it.\nThis is the sapo hydrargyri bichloridi of med-\nical writers.\nMottled Soaps.— The mottled or marble ap-\npearance is usually given to soap, on the large\nscale, by watering the nearly finished soap\nwith a strong lye of crude soda (preferably one\nrich in sulphides), by means of a watering-pot\nfurnished with a rose spout. In Castile soap\nit is given with a solution of sulphate of iron\nused in the same way. On the small scale, with\ntoilet soaps, the mottle is either given in the\nway noticed under Savonnettes, or, in a like\nmanner, by combining some of the soap, col-\nored at the time of scenting it, with the re-\nmaining uncolored portion.\nThe form of cakes, tablets, etc., may be\ngiven by either pouring the semi-liquid soap\ninto a series of polished metal moulds or by\ncutting and moulding or stamping the soap in\nthe solid state, it having been previously cut\nor formed into bars of suitable size and length.\nMottling. If, instead of a white soap, the\nobject is to produce a mottled soap, impure\nsoda, containing sulphides, is preferred for the\nlye, and a quantity of ferrous sulphate (green\nvitriol), about 8 oz. for each cwt. of oil, is\nadded at the end of the preliminary boiling.\nThis is at once precipitated, partly as iron\noxide and sulphide and partly as an insoluble\niron soap. In consequence of this addition\nand also from the presence of iron and sulphur\nin the lye, and of ferruginous matters from\nthe pan, the curd obtained at the end of stage\n3° has a uniform slate color. If this were al-\nlowed to remain, the effect would not be pleas-\ning; but instead of directing his endeavors to\nexclude these impurities, as in the case of the\nwhite soap, the soapmaker conducts the opera-\ntion in such a way as to preserve and arrange\nthem by diffusing the color in veins, in order\nto give a marbled or mottled appearance.\nWhen the proper consistence of the soap has\nbeen attained, the mass is worked about with\nrakes, so as to bring the lower and darker col-\nored parts of the curd to the top. When this\nhas been sufficiently done, the viscid soap is\ntransferred to the frames, where, in about a\na week or more, according to the quantity, it\ncools down to mottled soap. By varying the\nproportion of iron sulphate added, a tint is\nproduced of a lighter or darker hue. By ex-\nposure to the air, the iron gets oxidized to the\nstate of sesquioxide, and a reddish tint called\nmanteau Isabelle is diffused over the bluish\nmottled mass.\nIt is thus apparent that in mottled soap the\nveins and patches of heavy, insoluble, colored\ncompounds are present because, by special\nmanipulation, they have been intentionally\nprevented from subsiding, and by the convey-\nance of the soap to the frames in so viscid a\ncondition that the downward trickling of the\ncolored impurities should proceed so slowly as\nonly to intensify the desired appearance and not\nsubside altogether. It is evident also that, if a\nsoap so prepared were thinned by admixture\nwith water, the impurities would more readily\nsubside, and that the veining or mottling would\nbe greatly diminished or entirely prevented.\nHence, a genuine mottled soap cannot con-\ntain more than 33 or 34, or at most, 36$ of water.\nHence, also, as a mottled appearance was\nformerly a special characteristic of Castile\nsoap, and as this was essentially a good soap, a\nmottled or marbled character came to be re-\ngarded as a sign of excellence. So far was this\nbelief carried, that it used to be said there was\nno need to analyze a marbled soap, as it must\nnecessarilj r be geuuine. This, however, is now\nby no means the case.\nArtificial Mottled Soaps, Blue, Gray and\nRed.— Blake Maxwell s process may be used\nto produce these soaps. Two soap pans are\nrequired. In one of these a known quan-\ntity of tallow, or bleached palm oil, or\na mixture of 80$ of cocoa nut oil, 14$ of\ntallow and 6$ of lard, is boiled with a quan-\ntity of soda lyes, carefully calculated with\nreference to the fats, and the hydrated soap\nthus formed is transferred to the other pan,\nin which a soft curd soap has been prepared\nfrom fatty matters and lyes, as calculated by\nthe sttength of the alkali. The mottle is\nproduced by adding to this soap, when in a\nfinished state, coloring matter to impart the de-\nsired color, and in about half an hour after the\nsoaps and coloring matter have been thor-\noughly incorporated, the soap may be trans-\nferred to the frames. For the best descriptions\nof mottled soaps the weight of fatty matters\nused to produce the hydrated soap amounts to\nfrom one fourth to one half the fat used to\nproduce the soft curd. For cheaper descrip-\ntions, the hydrated soap may be increased till\nthe proportion of fat in the hydrated soap\namounts to from two thirds to one and a half\ntimes the weight of fat in the curd soap.\nAnother way is to prepare a fitted soap from\nthe fatty mixture containing cocoa nut or palm\nkernel oil in one pan and to remove it from the\nnigre to the second pan. Here, for every 1,000 lb.\nof soap, are added 250 lb. of sodium silicate, and\nthe whole is thoroughly incorporated by boil-\ning, until the experienced workman judges\nthat the proper condition for mottling has been\nattained. The coloring matters mixed with\nwater are then sprinkled into the pan, and after\nboiling for a few minutes, the mixture is trans-\nferred to the frames.\nThe coloring matters are— for blue, artificial\nultramarine, 5 to 10 lb. per ton; for gray, man-\nganese oxide, 1 to 3 lb. per ton; and for red, ver-\nmilion..\nMush Soap.\n1. White curd soap 60 lb.\nPalm oil soap 40 lb.\nColor with—\nBrown ocher, or Spanish brown. 8 oz.\nPerfume with\nOils of musk and bergamot, of\neach 7 oz.\nPowder of cloves, pale roses, and\ngilliflower, of each 9 oz.\n2. White tallow soap, 5 kilos.; pure palm soap,\n5 kilos. Perfume with oil of bergamot, 50\ngrm.; oil of roses, 5 grm.; oil of cloves, 5\ngrm.; oil of musk, 10 grm. The musk is pre-\npared thus Pound 10 grm. of musk in a mortar,\nwith an equal weight of sugar and 5 grm. of\npure potash; then add 160 grm. of alcohol,\ngradually triturate for a quarter of an hour,\npour the mixture into a flask, and leave from\n2 to 4 Aveeks, shaking it from time to time.\nThen filter, add the whole of the filtrate to the\n10 kilos, of soap, and afterward the other per-\nfume. Color with 80 grm. brown ocher.\n3. Best tallow soap, 301b.; palm oil soap, 201b.;\npowdered cloves, pale roses, and gilliflowers, of\neach, 4^£ oz.; essences of bergamot and musk, of\neach 3J^ oz.; Spanish brown, 4 oz.; mix as soap a\nla rose. Very fine.\nTonquin Musk Soap.—\nPale brown colored curd soap 5 lb.\nGrain musk J4 oz.\nOtto of bergamot 1 oz.\nRub the musk with the bergamot, then add\nit to the soap and beat up. Should be made\nsix months before using.\nNaples Soap, Liquid.— Take 12 lb. shavings of\ngood white soap, and melt in 2 or 3 qt. of\nrose and orange flower waters. Add, to retain\nits liquidity, 2 lb. of oil aux fleurs, slightly boil\nthe mixture, put in 4 oz. powdered bergamot,\npeel for coloring, then strain and perfume as\nfor the soaps in tablets. In default of oil,\nwhen the soap is melted, add 2 quarts of good\nessence of soap; leave it for 15 minutes to\nthoroughly incorporate, and then strain and\nperfume.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0533.jp2"},"530":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n518\nSoaps,\nIf by age it becomes dry, moisten with a little\nrose or orange flower water. The liquid soaps\nare susceptible of every variety of perfume.\nOatmeal Soap\nWhitesoap 25 lb.\nHalf palm soap 10 lb.\nCocoa nut oil soap 6J^ lb.\nOatmeal (coarse ground) 6 lb.\nOlein Soaps.—\n1. Saponified oleic acid 150 lb.\nTallow 40 lb.\nCrude palm oil 10 lb.\n2. Saponified oleic acid 155 lb.\nCrude palm oil 10 lb.\nCotton seed oil 20 lb.\nLinseed oil 15 lb.\nOmnibus Soap\nCocoa nut oil 40 lb.\nLye of 20° B 55 lb.\nCommon salt 3 lb.\nPotash 3 lb.\nPerfume with oil of mirbane.\nOrange Soap.\nWhitesoap 50 lb.\nStarch 2 lb.\ni Perfume with\nOil of orange peel 8 oz.\nOil of cinnamon J^ oz.\nOil of thyme 2 oz.\nColor dark yellow with naphthaline yellow.\nOrange Flower Soap.—\n1. White curd soap 60 lb.\nPalm oil soap 40 lb.\nColor with—\nYellow green pigment 16 oz.\nMinium (red lead) 23^ oz.\nPerfume with—\nOil of Portugal 15 oz.\nOil of ambergris 15 oz.\n2. Tallow soap 30 lb.\nPalm oil soap .20 lb.\nEssence of Portugal 73^ oz.\nEssence of ambergris 714 oz.\nYellowish green color (ocher and\nindigo) 8M oz.\nVermilion 134 oz.\nMix as soap a la rose. Very fine.\nOx Gall Soap.—l. Mix together V/% kilo, oxgall\nwith 25 kilos, melted cocoa nut oil. Saponify\nthis mixture by the cold process with 123^ kilos,\ncaustic soda lye of 38° B, The soap may be\ndyed by the addition of 850 grm. of ultrama-\nrine, and, if desired, perfumed with a mixture\nof 75 grm. of lavender oil and 75 grm. of cara-\nway seed oil. Ox gall soap is useful for scour-\ning woolen goods.\n2. Purified ox gall 1 part.\nWhite curd soap 2 parts.\nThe soap is cut into shavings and melted in\nthe ox gall at a moderate heat, evaporating\nuntil of proner consistency. The ox gall is\nprepared by boiling it with 10 to 12 parts of\nwood spirit and straining.\nSavon de Palme.—\nPalm oil 10 lb.\nHalf palm soap 10 lb.\nPerfume with\nOil of bergamot 2 oz.\nOil of cloves 3-^oz.\nOil of cinnamon 1 oz.\nOil of lavender 1 oz.\nDresden Palm Soap.\nCocoa nut oil 3,520 lb.\nPalm oil (crude) 1,100 lb.\nResin 880 lb.\nSoda lye, 28°. 353 lb.\nMelt together the fats and saponify the resin\nseparately, taking care to add the resin soap\nbefore it becomes too thick to stir.\nHalf Palm Soap may be made from either of\nthe following formulas\n1. Whitetallow 900 lb.\nPalm oil 400 lb.\nCocoa nut oil .200 lb.\nYellow resin.... 100 lb.\n1,600 lb.\n2. Tallow 700 lb.\nPalm oil 300 lb.\nCocoa nut oil 200 lb.\nCotton seed oil .400 lb.\n1,600 tt).\n3. Lard 550 lb.\nTallow 400 lb.\nCotton seed oil 450 lb.\nResin 200 lb.\n1,600 lb.\nThe following formulae, recommended by\nOtt, may prove useful\nPalm oil 300 lb.\nTallow .200 lb.\nResin 20 lb.\n520 lb.\nTallow 500 lb.\nPalm oil.... 300 lb.\nResin 200 lb.\n1,000 lb.\nPalm oil..... 450 lb.\nCocoa nut oil 50 lb.\n500 lb.\nLard 550 lb.\nPalm oil 150 lb.\nCocoanut oil 50 lb.\nClarified resin 50 lb.\n800 lb.\nViolet s Palm Oil Soap.— One hundred lb. of\npalm oil are melted, and at the temperature of\n203°, 123^ oz. nitric acid are added, with vigorous\nstirring for about a quarter of an hour 12 gal.\nof hot water are then added, and the stirring\ncontinued, after which the oil is allowed to\nrest. The oil is then well washed several times\nto free it from the acid, and after being sep-\narated from the water is saponified with a\nweak lye at 8° B., followed by stronger lyes of\n10° and 15°. The boiling is kept up until the\nsoap is of the proper granular consistence,\nand the grained soap, after being separated\nfrom the lye, is dissolved with lemon juice.\nThis soap is caUed orangine.\nPatchouly Soap.—\nCurd soap 4J^ lb.\nOtto of patchouly 1 oz.\nOtto of santal 34 oz.\nOtto of vitivert J4 oz.\nTo Deodorize Fat for Making Perfumed Soap*\nBoil 80 lb. of fat with 28 lb. water, contain-\ning 5 oz. common salt, and 234 oz. powdered\nalum. Boil for ten minutes. Strain off the\nwater, and let the fat remain several hours be-\nfore using.\nSoap Poultice. Any mild soap (scraped or\nsliced) dissolved in four times its weight of\nboiling water, and the solution thickened with\ncrumb of bread or linseed meal. A popular\napplication in scalds and burns.\nBorax Soap Powder.—\nCurd soap in powder 5 parts.\nSoda ash 3 parts.\nSodium silicate 2 parts.\nBorax (crude) 1 part.\nEach ingredient must be first thoroughly\ndried, and all mixed together by sieving.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0534.jp2"},"531":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n519\nSoaps.\nCastile Soap.— Cut or sliced small, dried by-\nexposure to a warm dry atmosphere, and then\npowdered. Used as a hand, shaving, and tooth\npowder; also in dispensing. As a cosmetic it\nmay be scented at will. As the first two, any\nof the other toilet soaps may be substituted\nfor Castile soap.\nLondon Soap Powder.—\nYellow soap 6 parts.\nSoda crystals 3 parts.\nPearlash 1}4 part.\nSodium sulphate 1]4 part.\nPalm oil (bleached) 1 part.\nThese ingredients are mixed as well as possi-\nble without any water, spread out/ to dry, and\nthen ground into coarse powder. The palm oil\nimparts an agreeable odor.\nPearl Soap Powder.\nCurd soap (powdered) 4 parts.\nSal soda (crude sodium carbon-\nate) 3 parts.\nSodium silicate 2 parts.\nDried as much as possible, and intimately\nmixed.\nSoap Powder, Perfumed d Toute Odeur The\npreceding powder, when melted, is perfumed\nto any odor desired for instance, to answer\nthe above title\nSoap.... 6 lb.\nEssence of bergamot 4 oz.\nEssence of lemon 1 oz.\nEssence of Portugal J^ oz.\nEssence of anise or fennel oz.\nPowder of Savon Onctueuse.— After having\nf rotted the soap, cut into thin slices. These,\nwhen perfectly dry, are powdered and sieved.\nThis is lighter, and lathers more freely than\nsome soap powders.\nPowdered Soaps.— All hard soaps may be re-\nduced to a fine powder, when perfectly dry, by\ntrituration with a pestle and mortar, but the\noperation is generally confined to cosmetic\nsoaps for shaving or other toilet purposes.\nThe soap, being previously perfumed in the\nusual way, is cut into thin shavings, and these\nare laid upon sheets of paper and placed in the\ndrying room, or dried in any convenient way.\nAs soon as the shavings become brittle they\nare in a condition for powdering. Small quan-\ntities at a time should be carefully reduced to\na powder in a mortar, and the powder after-\nward passed through a fine sieve, the fine pow-\nder being placed in a jar and kept well cov-\nered. All coarser particles retained by the sieve\nshould then be pulverized and sifted as before,\nuntil the entire quantity is reduced to a pow-\nder fine enough to pass through the sieve.\nPowder of Windsor Soap.— Take of very white\nand dry Windsor soap, powdered and finely\nbolted, melt it over a water bath with but very\nlittle water, so that it will dry the sooner, and\nbe less liable to be soiled in mixing. When\nmelted, transfer to frames; and when cooled,\ndivide it into bars; these, when dry, are to be\npowdered.\nWashing Powder.— A powdery mixture of 90\nparts effloresced soda with 10 parts sodium hy-\nposulphite and 2 parts borax.\nWool Washing Composition\nDried soda 35 parts.\nPowderedsoap 10 parts.\nSal ammoniac 10 parts.\nUniversal Washing Powder.— Sodium silicate,\nwith a small perentage of soap and starch pow-\nder.\nPumice Soap.—\nCeylon cocoa nut oil 2 lb.\nSoda lye of 40° B 1 lb.\nPulverized pumice stone 1J4 lb.\nPerfume with—\nOil of thyme M oz.\nOil of bergamot. 1 drm.\nRice Soap\nWax soap 1,350 parts.\nStarch 200 parts.\nOil of geranium 1J^ part.\nEssence of Portugal 2}4 parts.\nOil of bergamot 2^| parts.\nEssence mirbane 1}^ part.\nTincture benzoin, colored white\nor red 14 part.\nCinnabar 4 parts.\nRot in Soap (Altenburge).—\nRosin 225 lb.\nCocoa nut oil 225 lb.\nSoda lye, 28° 37134 lb.\nUse the cold process, and before putting in\nthe frames cut with a salt lye of 24° B.\nRypophagon Soap.— A mixture of equal parts\nof pale yellow soap and a fig soft soap, which,\nhas been perfumed with anise.\nRose Soap.—\n1. White soap 25 lb.\nCocoa nut oil 25 lb.\nFrench vermilion 6 oz.\nPerfume with\nOil of bergamot. 2 oz.\nOil of cinnamon J^ oz.\nOil of rose V/% oz.\nOil of cloves y^, oz.\nOil of neroli 1^ oz.\n2. New olive oil soap, 30 lb.; new tallow soap,\n20 lb.; reduce them to shavings by sliding the\nbars along the face of an inverted plane, melt\nin an untinned copper pan by the heat of steam\nor a water bath, add V/% oz. of finely ground\nvjrmilion, mix well, remove the heat, and\nwhen the mass has cooled a, little, add essence\nof roses (otto?), 3 oz.; do. of cloves and cinna-\nmon, of each 1 oz.; bergamot, 2}4 oz.; mix well,\nrun the liquid mass through a tammy cloth,\nand put it into the frames. If the soaps em-\nployed are not new, 1 or 2 qts. of water must be\nadded to make them melt easily. Very fine.\n3. Rose Leaf Soap.—\nRose pomade 20 lb.\nLard 20 lb.\nCocoa nut oil 10 lb.\nWhite wax 2 lb.\nSoda ley, 36° B 20 lb.\nPotash ley, 30° B 12 lb.\nG-um tragacanth 8 lb.\nPerfume with—\nOil of roses 2 oz.\nOil of geranium 2 oz.\nOil of rhodium 1 oz.\nOil of bergamot 2 oz.\nOil of cinnamon (Ceylon) oz.\nColor with aniline fast red, a light pink.\n4. Otto of Rose Soap.—\nCurd soap (previously colored\npink) 4^ lb.\nOtto of rose 1 oz.\nSpirituous extract of musk 2 oz.\nOtto of santal J4 oz.\nOtto of geranium 14 oz.\nMix the perfumes, stir them in the soap shav-\nings, and beat together.\n5. Rose or Savon a la Rose may be made from\neither of the following formulae, the soap being\npreviously well melted\nWhite curd soap made from best\ntallow 60 lb.\nOlive oil soap 40 lb.\nVermilion in fine powder 3 oz.\nThe vermilion is to be first well mixed with\nthe soap, great care being taken to insure per-\nfect incorporation. When the soap has cooled\na little the following perfumes are to be added\nEssential oil of rose 6 oz.\nEssential oil of cloves 2 oz.\nCinnamon 2 oz.\nEssential oil of bergamot .5 oz.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0535.jp2"},"532":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\nSoap prepared from the above formula has a\ndelicate rose color, is very fragrant and emol-\nlient, and is indeed one of the finest of toilet\nsoaps.\n6. White curd soap 100 lb.\nVermilion 10 oz.\nOil of rose 15 oz.\nOil of bergamot 5 oz.\nOil neroli 2%, oz.\nOil of cloves 5 oz.\nCinnamon 5 oz.\n7. White tallow or lard soap 10 kilos.\nPerfume, with oil of roses 40 grm.\nCloves 15 grm.\nCinnamon. 10 grm.\nBergamot 30 grm.\nNeroli 10 grm.\nOr with oil of roses 25 grm.\nGeranium 60 grm.\nCloves 15 grm.\nChinese cinnamon 10 grm.\nColor with 60 or 80 grm. of vermilion.\nSalol. The soap is prepared in two stages, the\nfirst being the manufacture of the base. This\nis carried out as follows One lb. of beef suet\nis melted with )4, lb. of cocoa nut oil and allowed\nto cool to 120° F.; then 14 oz. by weight of 18$\ncaustic soda solution and 2^ oz. of 24$ caustic\npotash solution are added and stirred together\nat a gentle heat for half an hour, or until a\nhomogeneous mixture is formed. Perfume is\nnow added, consisting of oil of caraway, 40\nminims; oil of bergamot, 50 minims; oil of lav-\nender. 30 minims; oil of thyme, 20 minims, and\nessence of mirbane, 6 drops. While the mass is\nstill warm, 1 oz. of finely powdered salol is\nadded, the whole heated sufficiently to melt\nthe antiseptic (to 113° F.) and well stirred. It\nis then allowed to cool, cut into pieces of the\ndesired size, dried partially in the air and\nwrapped in tin foil.\nThe salol soap powder is made by mixing 35\noz. of finely powdered stearine soap with 1\ngrn. of coumarin, 5 drops of oil of bergamot\nand 2 drops of oil of wintergreen; 2 lb. of this\nbase are mixed with 1 oz. of finely powdered\nsalol.\nSand Soap—1. 100 lb. of cocoa nut oil are\nsaponified with about 200 lb. of lye at 20° B.\nThe soap is then hardened by the addition of\nabout 8 lb. of salt dissolved in water to a\ndensity of 15° B., with the addition of 6 to 8 lb.\nsoda ash. The mixture is covered up and the\nfoam allowed to subside. After standing five\nor six hours the foam is skimmed off and 100 to\n150 lb. of dry, sifted sand is thoroughly\ncrutched into the mass, and the crutching is\ncontinued until the soap is cool. This soap is\nvery firm and hard.\n2. Curd soap, 7 lb.; marine soap, 7 lb.;\nsifted silver sand, 281b.; otto of thyme, otto of\ncassia, otto of caraway, otto French lavender,\nof each2oz.\nSand Balls are made by incorporating with\nmelted and perfumed soap certain proportions\nof fine river sand. About one third sand to\ntwo thirds soap is a fair proportion. The sand,\nhowever, should be passed through a fine sieve\nbefore using. Sometimes finely powdered pum-\nice is substituted for the sand.\nSapol io.— Sapolio contains, besides organic\nmatter, soda, iron, alumina, lime and hydro-\nchloric, sulphuric, carbonic and silicic acids.\nSavonnettes or Washballs.— These may be made\nof any of the milder toilet soaps or from the\nsubjoined formulas. The spherical form is\ngiven by pressing the soap in moulds, or by\nfirst forming them into balls with the hand, and\nwhen quite dry and hard turning them in a\nlathe.\nThe paste may be formed into balls by hand,\nand when quite dry finished by turning them\non a lathe. They may be polished by rubbing\nwith a cloth wet with a little spirit.\n520 Soaps.\n1. Curd soap in shavings 3 lb.\nFinest yellow soap in shavings. 2 lb.\nSoft water pt.\nMelt by gentle heat, and stir in powdered\nstarch, V/% lb. When the mass has considerably\ncooled, add essence of lemon or bergamot, 1^\noz. and make into balls.\n2. Ordinary. Savonnettes Communes.\nCurd soap, finest, in shavings. 1]4 lb.\nYellow soap, finest, in shavings 1 lb.\nSoft water pt.\nMelt them together by a continued gentle\nheat, stir in-\nPowdered starch or farina lb.\nand when the mixture has cooled a little, fur-\nther add\nOil of bergamot fl. oz.\nOil of lemon ^jfl. oz.\nEssential oil of almonds lYz fl.drm.\nand thoroughly incorporate the whole. When\nthe mass, by cooling, has acquired the proper\nconsistence, at once form it into balls.\nSavonnettes of Camphor.—\nWhite curd soap 3 lb.\nMelt, with the addition of a little water, and\nthen add—\nSpermaceti 4 oz.\nCamphor, cut small 2 oz.\nThese are first to be melted together, and\nthen added to the liquid soap.\n2. Camphor. Melt spermaceti, 2 oz.; add\ncamphor, cut small, 1 oz.; dissolve and add the\nmixture to white curd soap, 1}4 lb., previously\nmelted by the aid of a little water and gentle\nheat, and allowed to cool considerably. These\nballs should be covered with tin foil.\nSavonnettes of Sweet Herbs. Melt 12 lb.\nwhite curd soap, and then add the following\nmixture of essential oils\nOil of lemon 4 oz.\nOil of bergamot 4 oz.\nOil of thyme 1 oz.\nOil of lavender 1 oz.\nOil of wild thyme 1 oz.\nOil of myrtle 1 oz.\nOil of marjoram 1 oz.\nOil of mint oz.\nOil of sage Mi oz.\nOil of wormwood y% oz.\nOil of fennel.... 2 oz.\nSavonnettes au Miel (Honey Savonnettes).—\nWhile curd soap (melted) 1 lb.\nHoney 1 lb.\nEssential oil of any kind required 2 oz.\nRose water 2 oz.\nAdd the honey to the melted soap then add\nthe rose water, and lastly the perfume.\nHoney.— Finest yellow soap, 7 lb.; palm oil,\nJ4 lb. Melt and add oil of verbena, rose gera-\nnium or ginger grass, 1 oz.; or oil of rosemary,\n^oz.\nHoney Savonnettes.\nFinest yellow soap 7 lb.\nPalm oil soap 341b.\nMelt and then add—\nOil of verbena, rose, geranium,\nor ginger grass 1 oz.\nOil of rosemary oz.\nMottled Balls.— Cut the soap (recently pre-\npared, and not too dry) into dice, or small\nsquare pieces, roll them in colored powder (see\nbelow), and then mould them into balls by pow-\nerful pressure, observing to mix the colors as\nlittle as possible.\nThe colors usually employed, and which\nshould be in very fine powder, are\n1. Blue.— Indigo, powder blue, or smalts.\n2. Green. Powder blue and bright yellow\nocher.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0536.jp2"},"533":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n521\nSoaps.\n3. Orange. Yellow deepened -with a little\nred.\n4. Ked. Red bole, sesquioxide of iron, or\njewelers rouge.\n5. Yellow. Bright yellow ocher or Dutch\npink.\nBy varying the color, by diluting it with a\nlittle farina or chalk, and by using soap dice\nseparately coated with two or more colors,\nmottled savonnettes of any color, or mixture\nof colors, may be produced at will.\nSavonnettes of neroli.—\nMelted curd soap 12 lb.\nOrris powder 1 lb.\nOrange powder 3 oz.\nOil of neroli. 12 drm.\nEssence of musk 4 oz.\nEssence of ambergris 4 oz.\nSand Balls.— 1. These are prepared by adding\nto the melted soap about half its weight of fine\nsiliceous sand. Sifted Calais sand is usually\nemployed. Some persons prefer the shelly sea\nsand (sifted from the shells and well washed)\nfor the purpose. For the finer qualities, finely\npowdered pumice stone is now usually em-\nployed. Used to prevent roughness and thick-\nening of the skin in cold weather; also to clean\nthe hands when dirty. The best yellow soap,\nwith or without the addition of y% its weight\nof white soft soap and a little sweet oil, is the\nbest for these balls.\n2. Soap (at will), 2 lb.; fine sand, 1 lb.; per-\nfume if desired. For finer qualities, finely pow-\ndered pumice stone is substituted for sand.\nSavonnettes a la Vanille.—\nWhite Curd soap 12 lb.\nMelt, with a little water, and then add the\nfollowing mixture.\nTincture of vanilla 4 oz.\nBalsam of tolu 4 oz.\nBalsam of Peru 2 oz.\nTincture of cinnamon 1 oz.\nOil of cloves 2 drm.\nTincture of musk 1 oz.\nTincture of amber 1 oz.\nViolet Balls.— Take of—\nPalm oil soap 1Y lb.\nYellow soao (best) lb.\nFarina. Yz lb.\nPowdered orris root 34 lb.\nScouring Balls.—\nWhite curd soap 35 lb. 2oz.\nPearlash 6 lb. 6 oz.\nOil of juniper 3 lb. 3oz.\nMix together, having previously added a\nlittle water to the soap and pearlash to dissolve\nthem by a moderate heat; add the oil of juni-\nper and mould into balls.\nScouring Soap.— Dissolve in alcohol, %Y oz.\nCastile soap. Add the yelks of 8 eggs, 8 fl. drm.\noil of turpentine.\nScouring Soap for Wine and Vinegar Stains.\nWhite soap 5 oz.\nOil of turpentine 2 fl.drm.\nAmmonium chloride 50 grn.\nMix.\nShaving Paste\n1. Naples soap 4 oz.\nPowdered Castile soap 2 oz.\nHoney 1 oz.\nEssence of ambergris. of each,\nOil of cassia V 5 or 6\nOil of nutmegs drops.\n2. White wax 34 oz.\nSpermaceti 34 oz.\nAlmond oil 34 oz.\nMelt, and, while warm, beat in 2 squares of\nWindsor soap, previously reduced to a paste\nwith a little rose water.\n3. White soft soap 4 oz.\nSpermaceti Y oz.\nSalad oil Y oz.\nMelt together and stir till cold. Scent at will.\nWhen properly prepared, these pastes pro-\nduce a good lather with either hot or cold water\nwhich does not dry on the face.\nShaving Soaps.— A very fine shaving soap\nsolution may be made by taking 34 lb. white\nCastile soap in shavings, 1 pint rectified spirit,\n34 pint water perfume to taste. Put in a bot-\ntle, cork tightly, set in warm water for a short\ntime, and agitate occasionally till solution is\ncomplete. Let stand, pour the liquid off the\ndregs, and bottle for use.\nHampers Shaving Soap is made by his pat-\nented process as follows: Cleaned olein 6*6\nper cent, is first mixed thoroughly with 13\nper cent, of hot water then 5*4 per cent, of\nsoda ley at 25° is added, and the mass, which\nassumes the appearance of soft butter, is agi-\ntated until it becomes cold and is easily lique-\nfied, when 12 5 per cent, of best white\nsoap and 50 per cent, of boiling water are\nadded. All these ingredients are to be well\nmixed together, and finally 12*5 per cent, of\nspirit at 90° is to be added and well incorpor-\nated with the mass. The compound is then to\nbe covered, and allowed to rest for a while, af-\nter which it is filtered, and is then ready for use.\nWindsor Soap for Shaving.\nPure white tallow 20 lb.\nCochin China cocoa nut oil 10 lb.\nSodalyeof 30° B IT lb.\nPotash lye of 30° B 3 lb.\nPerfume with—\nOil of bergamot 13^ oz.\nOil of cummin 334 oz.\nOil of rosemary oz.\nOil of lavender oz.\nWay s Silicated Soap.— To produce 100 lb. of\nsoap the operator puts into the soap pan 11*5\nper cent, of each, bleached palm oil and\ncocoa nut oil, and 36*6 per cent, of soda ley of\n36° Tw. These ingredients are boiled till the\nsoap becomes stiff, and there is then added 44\nper cent, of solution of silicate of soda of 36°\nTw. The boiling is now continued till the soap\nbecomes thin and limpid, when 2 4 per cent, of\ncommon salt is thrown in, and the boiling con-\ntinued for three or four hours, when the soap\nmay be cleansed either at once or after it has\nbeen allowed to stand for a few hours. If open\nsteam be used, it is best to have the silicate so-\nlution and the ley of greater strength than that\nmentioned, in proportion to the quantity of\nwater which is condensed from such steam\ninto the soap-pan.\nSilver Soaps. See Polishing, Soaps.\nSoft Soap, Medicinal, is made from pure olive\noil saponified with a caustic ley made from pure\npotash. The ley is added gradually and cau-\ntiously to the oil during the boiling, and the\ngreatest care taken to avoid an excess of alkali.\nWhen the mass assumes a transparent and gela-\ntinous appearance, the addition of ley is stop-\nped. The boiling is continued until the soap\nhas acquired the proper consistence.\nAnalyses of Soft Soaps.— The following ana-\nlyses may be useful as showing the composition\nof several well made soft soaps\nGood soft soap of London make: Potash 8*5\noil and tallow 45 water 46 5 in 100 parts.—\nUre.\nThenard gives the composition of soft soap\nas Potash, 9*5 oil, 44 0 water, 46 5 100.\nBelgian soft or green soap Potash 7 oil 36\nwater 57 100.— Ure.\nScotch soft soap Potash 8 oil and tallow 47\nwater 45 100.— Ure.\nAnother well made soap Potash 9 oil and\nfat 34 water 57 100.\nAn olive oil (Oallipoli) soft soap from Scot-\nland consisted of potash with a good deal of\ncarbonic acid, 10; oils, 48; water, 42 100.— Ure.\nA rapeseed oil from Scotland consisted of\npotash 10 oil 5P66 water 38 33.\nA semi-hard soap from Verviers, for fulling\ncloth, called savo)t economique, consisted of pot-\nash 11-5 fat (solid) 62 water 26 5 100— Ure.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0537.jp2"},"534":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n522\nSoaps.\nDomestic Soft Soap.\nPotash... 7^ lb.\nGrease 10 lb.\nWater 37J^ gal.\nDissolve the potash in part of the water, add\nof the grease and heat. Mix in the remainder\nof the grease, put in a barrel and add the re-\nmainder of the water, a little at a time, for sev-\neral days. Stir often. Ready for use in about\n2 weeks.\nShaker Soft Soap.— Grease. Q qt. strong lye\nmade from wood ashes, 18 gal. water, q. s. to\nmake up to 45 gal.\nSoft Soap, to make Hard.— Put into a kettle\nfour pailf uls of soft soap, and stir in it, by de-\ngrees, about one quart of common salt. Boil\nuntil all the water is separated from the curd,\nremove the fire from the kettle and draw off\nthe water with a siphon (a yard or so of India\nrubber hose will answer). Then pour the\nsoap into a wooden form in which muslin has\nbeen placed. For this purpose a wooden box,\nsufficiently large and tight, may be employed.\nWhen the soap is firm turn it out to dry, cut\ninto bars with a brass wire and let it harden. A\nlittle powdered resin will assist the soap to\nharden, and give it a yellow color. If the soft\nsoap is very thin, more salt must be used.\nSoft Soap with Potash. To twenty pounds of\nclear grease take 17 pounds of pure white\npotash. Buy the potash in as fine lumps\nas it can be procured, and place it in the bottom\nof the soap barrel, which must be water tight\nand strongly hooped. Boil the grease and pour\nit boiling hot upon the potash then add two\nShaker pailf uls of boiling hot water dissolve\none pound of borax in two quarts of boiling\nhot water and stir all together thoroughly.\nNext morning add two pails of cold water and\nStir for half an hour; continue this process\nuntil a barrel containing thirty-six gallons is\nfilled up. In a week, and even less, it will be fit\nfor use. The borax can be turned into the\ngrease while boiling, and also one pound of\nresin. Soap made in this manner always comes,\nand is a first rate article, and will last twice as\nlong as that bought at the soap chandlers. The\ngrease must be tried out, free from scraps,\nham rinds, bones or any other debris then the\nsoap will be thick as jelly, and almost as clear.\nSoap Solution, Clark s— Dissolve 5 grm. Cas-\ntile soap in liter of dilute alcohol S6%. Used\nto test the hardness of water.\nSpermaceti Soap.— Curd soap 14 lb.; otto of\nbergamot, 2% lb.; otto of lemon, lb.\nSulphur Soap— I. The best contain about 10$\nof very finely divided sulphur, and are per-\nfumed, as the element gives a rather unpleas-\nant* smell to soap when used alone. Various\ncombinations of tar, of naphthol or of iodides,\netc., with sulphur, are also made, which are\ncommended for various cutaneous disorders,\npimples, comedones, freckles, etc.; sulphur,\nwhen continuously applied, tends to produce a\nclear and healthy complexion.\n2. White curd or Castile soap\n(recent) lb.\nFlowers of sulphur (best; levi-\ngated) 1 oz.\n90% alcohol (strongly colored with\nalkanet) 1 fl. oz.\nOtto of roses (to strongly scent\nthe mass) q. s.\nBeat the whole together, to a smooth paste,\nin a marble or wedgwood-ware mortar. This\nis Sir H. Marsh s formula. Recommended in\nitch and various other skin diseases. It is par-\nticularly serviceable, as a common toilet soap,\nto persons troubled with slight cutaneous erup-\ntions. Its daily use tends to render the skin\nfair and smooth. The spirit and coloring may\nbe omitted at will and, as a toilet soap, only\nhalf the above quantity of sulphur is amply\nsufficient.\nCamphorated Sulphur Soav.— 12 kilos, cocoa\nnut oil, 6 kilos, of soda ley (38°B), 1 kilo, potas-\nsium sulphate, dissolved in kilo, of water, 160\ngrm. camphor, which is to be dissolved in the\nmelted cocoa nut oil.\nSir H. Marsh s Sulphur Soap.— White soap, 2\noz. and sublimed sulphur, J4 oz., are triturated\nin a mortar, with 1 or 2 fl. drm. of rectified\nspirit, until a smooth paste is formed. The\nspirit should be first colored strongly with al-\nkanet root. A few drops of otto of roses are\nadded to give the soap an agreeable fragrance.\nTannin Soap.—l. Dissolve 30 lb. of tallow\nsoap add 2 lb. tannic acid and enough starch\nto form the mass into cakes.\n2. Nine kilos, of cocoa nut oil are saponified\nwith 4^£ kilos, of soda lye then 250 grm. of tan-\nnin, previously dissolved in alcohol, are put in,\nand the whole mixed. The soap is perfumed\nwith 30 grm. Peru balsam, 10 grm. cassia oil\nand 10 grm. oil of cloves.\nTar Soap (Sapo Piceus).—\nTar 1 part.\nLiquor potassas 2 parts.\nSoap (in shavings) 2 parts.\nBeat them together till they unite. Action\nstimulant, in psoriasis, lepra, etc.\nMedicated Tar Soap.\nCocoa nut oil. 20 lb.\nTallow 10 lb.\nJuniper tar 5 lb.\nSodaley (40° B.) 15 lb.\nCleaver s Terebene Soap. Mr. Cleaver com-\nbines with soap, while in a melted state, the\nsubstance known as terebene, whereby a disin-\nfectant and antiseptic soap is produced. This\nsubstance is also combined with toilet creams,\ncosmetics, etc. The following proportions,\nwhich may, however, be varied at will, are said\nto give good results For toilet soap, 4^ pt. of\nterebene are added to 112 lb. of soap. For\nhousehold or laundry soap, he adds 6 pt. of\nterebene to 112 lb. of soap. The terebene is in-\ntroduced into the soap in its liquid state, and\nthoroughly incorporated by stirring. The\nsoap may be perfumed if desirable* The soap\nis known as terebene soap.\nTeeth, Soap for.— Tooth Soap.—\nTallow soap 20 lb.\nPumice powder finely sifted lb.\nPrepared chalk 2 lb.\nStarch ^lb.\nAromatic Antiseptic Tooth Soap.— Castile soap,\n1 lb.; finely powdered pumice, 1 oz.; thymol, 20\ngrn.; oil of wintergreen, 30 drops. Shave the\nsoap into ribbons, beat it into a paste with a\nlittle water, and add first the pumice and next\nthe thymol and wintergreen dissolved in a\nsmall quantity of alcohol.\nZalmon s Aromatic Mouth Soap.— One lb. of\nneutral soap, prepared from fat of the best\nquality, is dissolved in cold distilled water,\nabout %y 2 oz. finely sifted cuttle fish bone is\nadded to the solution, and the whole evaporat-\ned at a gentle heat. When the desired consist-\nency is nearly reached add of a drm. each of\noil of peppermint, oil of sage, virgin honey and\nwhite vinegar, or oil of lemons. Mix the whole\nquickly by stirring, and pour into suitable\nmoulds to cool. Coloring matter may be added\nas desired.\nTextile Soap— The firm of Trawitz, Duerin-\nger Co., Strassburg, Alsace, manufacture a\nsoap for use in the textile industry which it is\nclaimed meets the highest requirements and\nperfectly replaces the best Marseilles soap.\nThis Luetzelburg textile soap, as it is named,\naccording to the analysis made in the labora-\ntory of the Seifensieder Zeitung, contains\nFatty acid 65 2$\nSoda 7 6^\nWater 27*2$\n100-0\nThe fat is completely saponified and the soap\nabsolutely neutral, and therefore suitable for\nany purposes of the textile industiy.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0538.jp2"},"535":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n523\nSoaps.\nSoap for Silks and Printed Goods.— The late\nProfessor Crace- Calvert, of Manchester, to\nwhose indefatigable exertions in industrial\nchemistry manufacturers were indebted for\nmuch valuable information, suggested the\nfollowing formulae for soaps to produce the\nhighest brightening effect upon the various\nshades of color:\nFor Madder Purples.\nFatty matter s 60 4#\nSoda 5-Q%\nWater 340^\nj/100-0\nFor Madder Pinks.\nFatty matter 59*23^\nSoda 6-77^\nWater 34 00#\n100-00\nFor bleaching raw silk, white olive oil soap is\nused on the Continent.\nOleic acid, saponified by potash lye, is a very\nsuitable fatty material for making soft soap.\nThe first potash lye should have a strength\nequal to about 20° B., and the soap may be fin-\nished with a stronger lye— from 25° to 28°\nSoap for Textile Industries.—\n1. Tallow.... 80 lb.\nCottonseed oil 80 lb.\nBone fat 80 lb.\nCocoa nut oil 100 lb.\nCaustic soda 75 lb.\nSalt... 32 lb.\n2. Tallow 80 lb.\nPeanut oil 120 lb.\nBleached linseed oil 40 lb.\nPalm kernel oil .....120 lb.\nCaustic soda 80 lb.\nSalt 36 lb.\n3. Cottonseed oil 80 lb.\nPeanut oil .80 lb.\nBone fat 80 lb.\nPalm kernel oil 120 lb.\nCaustic soda 80 lb.\nSalt 35 lb.\n4. Saponified oleic acid 100 lb.\nTallow 40 lb.\nPalm kernel oil 60 lb.\nCaustic soda 40 lb.\nSalt 20 lb.\nSoft Soap.—\n1. Tallow 65 lb.\nCrude palm oil 10 lb.\nSaponified oleic acid 75 lb.\nCottonseed oil 40 lb.\n.Bleached linseed oil 10 lb.\n2. Tallow 100 lbJ\nHorse fat 100 lb.\nSaponified oleic acid 100 lb.\nCrude palm oil. 20 lb.\nCottonseed oil 80 lb.\n3. Tallow 8 lb.\nBleached palm oil 6 lb.\nSaponified oleic acid 14 lb.\nPeanut oil 9 lb.\nBleached linseed oil ..3 lb.\nTransparent Soap.—l. Soap when perfectly\ndry is readily soluble in warm alcohol, and ad-\nvantage is -taken of this chemical fact in the\nmanufacture of transparent soap. To prepare\ntransparent soap, either tallow, almond or soft\nsoaps may be used, but in either case the soap\nmust be rendered perfectly free from water.\nThe soap is first cut into thin slices or shavings,\nand these are then dried over a water bath or\nby hot air. Equal parts by weight of the\ndried soap, and rectified spirit are put into a\nstill, heated by a water bath. Only moderate\nheat is applied, otherwise the spirit would\npass over without dissolving the soap. The\nsoap is sometimes powdered in a mortar after\ndrying, before treating it with the spirit, by\nwhich it becomes more readily dissolved. If it\nis desired to color the soap, any coloring matter\nsoluble in alcohol may be employed. It is best\nto color the spirit before adding it to the soap.\nWhen the soap is completely dissolved, it is al-\nlowed to rest for an hour or two, after which\nthe clear and transparent liquid is put into the\nframes in which it will solidify on cooling.\nWhen cold it is cut in pieces of any required\nsize, and these are moulded in the same way as\nother toilet soaps. It does not acquire its\ncharacteristic transparency until after it has\nbeen exposed to dry air for a considerable\ntime.\nAny of the aniline colors, however, may be\nused for tinting the transparent soap, and are,\nindeed, well suited to this purpose.\nResin soaps are considered very suitable for\nmaking these soaps, and the presence of a fair\nproportion of resin undoubtedly favors the\ntransparency and beauty of the substance.\nAlthough transparent soaps are exceedingly\npleasing to the eye, they do not possess the\nactive detergent powers of ordinary soaps.\n2. Brown s recipe for making transparent\nsoap is as follows: One hundred lb. dry bar\nsoap to be heated and melted; then pour in 25\nlb. or more of melted sal soda. Agitate to-\ngether at a low heat. Then add 100 to 125 lb. of\nglycerine; agitate, keeping up a moderate heat.\nLet settle; draw off into moulds or soap frames.\nWhen cold cut into bars and cakes.\n3. Take of perfectly dry pulverulent white\nsoap, 2 lb.; alcohol, 36° B., 3 qt.; heat gently to-\ngether ovex- a water bath and when the solu-\ntion is complete, perfume and turn out into\nforms.\nWhen cooled divide it into cakes one-third\nthicker than their designed size, so as to allow\nfor contraction by evaporation.\nTurpentine Soap, or Starkey s Soap, is pre-\npared as follows: Take of Venice turpentine,\noil of turpentine and carbonate of potash, of\neach equal parts; place these in a mortar (pre-\nviously warmed) and triturate them together,\nadding a little water, until a homogeneous\nmass is formed; put it into a paper mould and\nafter a few days cut the soap into slices and\nkeep them in a well stoppered bottle.\nVanilla Soap.—l. White tallow soap, 10 kilos.;\nperfume with tincture of vanilla, 500 grm.; oil\nof roses, 5 grm. Color with 100 grm. of burnt\nsienna.\n2. Lard, with vanilla 30 lb.\nCocoa butter 10 lb.\nPalm oil 10 lb.\nCaustic ley, 36° B 26 lb.\nWax 2 lb.\nStarch 2 lb.\nPerfume with—\nTincture of vanilla 4 oz.\nTincture of musk 2 oz.\nTincture of ambergris 2 oz.\nOil of rose oz.\nLard with vanilla is prepared by adding the\nvanilla to the lard, 1 oz. to the lb., keeping it at\na moderate heat for some days, then strain-\ning, etc.\n3. White curd soap 40 lb.\nTincture of vanilla 2 lb.\nOil of rose 2)4 drm.\nColor with\nBurnt sienna 7 oz.\nVaseline Tar Soap.— Saponify 40 lb. of cocoa\nnut oil and 6 lb. of tar with 22 lb. of lye 40° B.\nDissolve 4 lb. of yellow vaseline and stir in the\nsoap, with 1 lb. lukewarm water.\nVaseline Soap.— Cocoa nut oil, 160 parts; vase-\nline, 20 parts; lye of 40° B., 76 parts; water, 4\nparts.\nVegetable Soap, by Delteil, Paris\nFarina of pistachio nuts 3 parts.\nBeech nuts 1 part.\nBuckwheat meal, orris, and\npatchouli 1 part.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0539.jp2"},"536":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n524\nSoaps.\nThe perfume of the product can be varied.\nIt may be either essence of rose, almonds,\nbergamot, or musk.\nViolet Windsor Soa^p\nLard 50 parts.\nPalm oil 33 parts.\nSpermaceti 17 parts.\nThe perfume employed is essence of Portu-\ngal, to which a little oil of cloves is added.\nThe well-known violet odor of the palm oil,\nmodified by the perfumes, gives an agreeable\nfragrance to the soap.\n1. Violet Soap (Yellow).—\nYellow cocoa nut oil 20 lb.\nPalm oil 20 lb.\nTallow 10 lb.\nSoda lye at 36° B 2t5 lb.\nPowdered orris root 4 lb.\nTo which are added the following perfumes\nOil of lemon 4 oz.\nOil of rhodium 2 oz.\nOil of thyme 2 oz.\nTincture of musk 4 oz.\nColor with cadmium yellow.\n2. Genuine Violet Soap.— Genuine violet soap,\nwhich is generally sold in square lumps, mark-\ned Finest perfumed old brown violet soap,\nenjoys the greatest approval of consumers on\naccount of its agreeable odor. It is certainly\nmade in every large manufactory of toilet\nsoaps, but there are great discrepancies as re-\ngards the manner of its manufacture and the\ncomposition of the scent.\nFinest cocoa nut oil 48 lb.\nFresh tallow 14 lb.\nBest Lagos palm oil 1% lb.\nMelt together. To a portion of the fat while\nstill hot add 2 lb powdered and alcoholized or-\nris root, and 2*4, lb. powdered and alcoholized\nbergamot rind, equally distributed. The ma-\nnipulation is best effected by sifting the per-\nfumes into a large mortar, rubbing contin-\nually, and adding more fat until a homoge-\nneous and moderately fluid mass has been\nformed, which is then added to the mass in the\npan.\nIn the same manner V/% lb. of liquid storax\nis dissolved in some pounds of the mixed fat\nwith the aid of heat, and the liquid mass is\ncarefully strained through a cloth into the\npan.\nThe whole mixture of fat is then allowed to\ncool down to 90° F., and 31 lb. soda lye and 1 lb.\npotash lye, at 66° Tw., are crutchedin the usual\nmanner.\nBefore putting in the forms the soap is\nfurther perfumed with—\nMitcham oil of lavender 250 grn.\nBergamot oil. 135 grn.\nSassafras oil, 75 grn.\nBalsam of Peru 70 grn.\nCeylon oil of cinnamon 10 grn.\nMusk 2 to 3 grn.\nThe musk is ground fine with a iittle milk\nsugar, moistened with the oils, and worked into\nthe soap.\nThe soap when first cut has not a very fine\ncolor, and the smell is far from agreeable. In\nthe course of fourteen days it takes a good\nbrown color, and the odor improves with age.\nChemical Review.\n3. Any white toilet soap strongly scented\nwith essence of orris root, and colored, or not,\nwith tincture of litmus, or a little levigated\nsmalts or indigo. Very fine.\n4. White curd soap 3 lb.\nOlive oil soap 1 lb.\nPalm oil soap 3 lb.\nMelted together, and further scented with a\nlittle essence of orris root, and colored or not,\nat will. Very fragrant.\nTo Prepare a White Soap.— Put into a pan,\ncapable of holding about 100 gal., tallow, lard, or\nbleached palm oil, 120 lb,; cocoanut oil, 40 lb.;\napply gentle heat, with occasional stirring,\nuntil all the fatty matter is melted. When the\nliquid grease has attained the heat of about 120°\nF., add, gradually, 80 lb. lye at 36° B., and stir\nwell until a complete union of the fatty mat-\nters and alkali is effected. The temperature of\nthe ingredients, at the time of adding the al-\nkali, must not be higher than 122° F.; otherwise\ntuere will be a separation of the lye from the\nfatty materials. If the stirring has been dili-\ngently pursued, the saponification will be com-\nplete in about two hours, and the soap is then\nready for the frame. If it is desired to per-\nfume the soap, this should be done while it is\nin the pan, and before it has had time to cool.\nIt is not a good plan, when making small quan-\ntities of soap, to add the perfume after the\nsoap is in the frame, since it is then more diffi-\ncult to effect a perfect incorporation of the\nrespective materials.\nWindsor Soap. —The best Windsor soap is made\nof a mixture of olive oil, 1 part, and ox tallow\nor suet, 9 parts, saponified by caustic soda; but\nmost of the Windsor soaps of the shops is mere-\nly ordinary curd soap scented. On the large\nscale the perfume is added while the soap is in\nthe soft state, just before it is put into frames,\nbut on the small scale it maybe prepared in the\nsame way as soap a la rose.\n1. Best beef tallow and oil soap, as above, 3\ncwt.; essence of caraway, 2 lb.; English oil of\nlavender, }4 lb.; oil of rosemary, )4 lb.; mix as\nsoap a la rose.\n2. Hard curd soap, 1 cwt.; oil of caraway, V/z\nlb. tincture of musk, 12 oz. English oil of\nlavender, 2 oz.; oil of origanum, y% oz.; as last.\n3. Curd soap, melted and scented with the\noils of caraway and bergamot. Brown Wind-\nsor soap is the same colored. Coolers Formu-\nlas, Old.\n4. This famous toilet soap, as prepared in\nLondon, is generally made from tallow, 9 parts,\nand olive oil, 1 part, and is perfumed (for every\n1,000 lb. of the paste) with—\nOil of caraway 6 lb.\nOil of lavender. 1^ lb.\nOil of rosemary 1^1 lb.\n5. Or, for each 100 lb. of soap-\nOil of caraway 5 oz.\nOil of bergamot 10 oz.\nOil of cloves 2}4 oz.\nThyme 5 oz.\n6. Or, for the same quantity of soap-\nOil of caraway 10 oz.\nOil of bergamot 5 oz.\nOil of lavender 2% oz.\nOil of rosemary 2% oz.\nBrown Windsor soap is prepared as above,\nand colored either with burnt sugar (caramel)\nor umber.\n7. Rose Windsor is the plain variety colored\nwith vermilion or iron oxide, and perfumed,\nafter the soap has been transferred to the\nframe, with essence of roses.\n8. Weise s Formula for Windsor Soap.- -Tal-\nlow, 40 lb., and olive oil, 15 to 20 lb., are saponi-\nfied with soda lye of 19° B.; the soap next\ntreated with a lye of 15° B., and lastly with a lye\nof 20° B., and the operation is conducted as for\ncurd soan, but no excess of alkali muot be used.\nWhen boiled clear, the soap is left in the pan\nfor six or eight hours; it is next completely\nseparated from the lye, and is then placed in a\nflat mould, and pressed until it no longer ex-\nhibits any flux, to prevent it from mottling.\nTo the above proportions the following per-\nfumes are added\nOil of cumin ..10 oz.\nOil of bergamot 6 oz.\nOil of lavender 3 oz.\nOil of origanum 1 oz.\nOil of thyme 3 oz.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0540.jp2"},"537":{"fulltext":"Soaps.\n525\nSolders.\nWool Washing, Soap for.— A good soap for\nfreeing 1 wool of grease can best be prepared\nfrom olive and Cochin cocoa nut oils. Seven-\nteen hundred and sixty pounds of olive oil are\nboiled to a grain with caustic soda lye. After\nthe soap has separated and the lye has been\ndrawn off, 1,960 lb. of potash solution of 20° B.\nare added and allowed to boil a little. Now 440\nlb. of Cochin oil are added, and, when well\ntaken up, the same quantity of potash solu-\ntion of 2u° B. is gradually added as the soap can\ntake it up. Then place in tinned forms of\nabout 220 lb. capacity.\nA cheap and less valuable article, such as is\nfrequently used for cleaning ordinary wool,\nis also easy to prepare. Seventeen hundred\nand sixty pounds of elaine and 440 lb. of tallow\nare boiled to a grain, the precise method of\nboiling being immaterial, provided one obtains\na good firm grain. In another kettle a soda\nsolution is prepared of 30° B. Now take 220 lb.\nof this soda solution, place it in a shallow ket-\ntle with 440 lb. of the grain soap, stir well and\nthen add, with constant stirring, 220 lb. of dry\nsoda.\nIn this way a thick paste is obtained, which\nis allowed to cool in the pan, and is removed\nafter forty-eight hours with a chisel. This is\nbroken up into small pieces of the size of an\negg, and packed in barrels for shipment.\nA third process, which, however, is but sel-\ndom used in soap factories, is the following\nTwenty-two pounds of caustic soda lye of 60°\nB. and 44 lb. of soda crystals are dissolved in\n120 lb. of water, and 44 lb. of elaine crutched\ninto the solution. This mixture is adapted to\nwool washing and is generally prepared by the\nwool washer himself. The wool, however, be-\ncomes dry and brittle after its use.\nAlmost every establishment has its own ap-\nproved formula, and every wool washer\nwatches, argus eyed, lest some one discovers\nhis method of making celebrated soap. We\ncan very cheerfully let these people retain their\ntreasure, as a soap boiler would never allow\nhimself to apply the name soap to such a mess.\n—Der Seifenfabrikant.\nWool Washing Co impound.— This is a mixture\ncomposed of\nDried soda 35 parts.\nPowdered soap ..10 parts.\nSal ammoniac ,10 parts.\nDimbleby s Witch-hazel Soap.— The juice of\nthe plant Hamamelis virginica, or common\nwitch-hazel, is mixed with soap, and the vari-\nous compounds for toilet purposes which con-\ntain soap, and it is said that such compounds\nare beneficial in cases of bruises and lacerations\nof the skin.\nName.\nSoft, coai se\nloft, fine\nSoft, fusible\nPewterer s\nSpelter, soft\nSpelter, hard\nSilver, fine.\nSilver, common\nSilver, for brass and iron.\nSilver, more fusible\nGold, for 18 carat gold.\nGold, more fusible\nPlatinum..\nMaterial to be Soldered.\nTin..\nLead\nBrass, copper, iron and zinc.\nPewter\nBrass\nCopper and iron\nBrass, copper, iron, steel\nGold\nPlatinum\nYellow Soap.—\nTallow 1)4 lb.\nSal soda lj^ lb.\nResin .56 lb.\nStone lime 28 lb.\nPalm oil 8 oz.\nSoft water 28 gal.\nPut soda, lime and water into a kettle and\nboil, stirring well; then let it settle and pour\noff the lye. In another kettle melt the tallow,\nrosin and palm oil, having it hot, the lye being\nalso boiling hot. Mix altogether, stirring well,\nand the work is done.\nSoap Papers, to Wax. See Waxes.\nSoaps. See also Polishing.\nSoapstone.— Name frequently applied to-\nsteatite.\nSoda Cream.— Warm gradually—\nWater 4^ gal.\nLoaf sugar 15 lb.\nAdd—\nRich cream 3 qt.\nExtract vanilla 234 oz.\nExtract nutmeg oz.\nTartaric acid 6 oz.\nBring to a boiling heat. Use 4 or 5 spoonfuls\nof this syrup to a glass. If used without a foun-\ntain, a little soda may be put in the glass. For\ncharged fountains leave out the acid.\nSoda Water, See Waters.\nSoda, Silicate of.— 1. Silicate of soda (or\nsoluble glass) is prepared by fusing together\ncarbonate of soda and sand, or by boiling flints\nin caustic soda under great pressure. It is not\nsoluble in cold water, but dissolves in 5 or 6\ntimes its weight of boiling water. It is em-\nployed in the manufacture of soap, in fixing\ncolors, in preserving stones from decay. In\nadmixture with other silicates, silicate of soda\noccurs in glass; and it (equally with silicate of\npotassa) imparts the property of viscidity before\nfusion to such mixtures, which is of great\nvalue in the working of glass.\n2. Mix well 200 grn. of fine sand and 600 grn.\nof fine carbonate of potassa; fuse in a crucible\ncapable of holding four times as much. Car-\nbonic acid escapes; the silica and potassa com-\nbine and form glass. Pour out the glass, which\nis commonly termed silicated potassa, on an\niron plate. The compound formed in this man-\nner is pure silica soap.\nSodium Amalgam. See Amalgams.\nSodium Silicate Cements. See Cements.\nSolders. A few solders, the metals to which\nthey are applied, and their appropriate fluxes,\nare tabulated below\nComposition.\n..Tin, 1; lead, 2\nTin, 2; lead, 1\n..Tin, 2; lead, l;bis.,l\n..Tin, 3; lead, 4; bis., 2\nCopper, 1 zinc, 1\nCopper, 2 zinc, 1\n.Silver, 66*6; copper, 23*4; zinc, lu\n..Silver, 66/6; copper, 30; zinc, 3*4\n..Silver, 1; brass, 1\n..Silver, 1; brass, 1; zinc, 1\nj Gold, 18 carats fine, 66 6\nI Silver, 16*7; copper, 16*7\nSame as above with a trace of zinc.\n..Fine gold.\nSolder. Flux.\nSoft, coarse or fine. Rosin or zinc, chl.\nS oft, coarse. Rosin.\n.Soft, coarse. Zinc, chl.\n.Pewterer s or fusible. Rosin or zinc, chl.\n..Spelter, soft. Borax.\n.Spelter, soft or hard. Borax,\nAny silver, S. Borax.\n..Gold, S. Borax.\nFine gold. Borax.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0541.jp2"},"538":{"fulltext":"Solders*\n526\nSolders.\nTable of Solders.\nNo,\n9\n10\n11\n12\n13\n14\n15\n16\n17\n18\n19\n20\n21\nName.\nPlumbers coarse solder\nPlumbers sealed solder\nPlumbers fine solder\nTinners solder\nTinners fine solder\nHard solder for copper, brass, iron.\nHard solder for copper, brass, iron.\nHard solder for copper, brass, iron,\nmore fusible than 6 or 7\nHard solder for copper, brass, iron.\nSilver solder for jewelers\nSilver solder for plating-\nSilver solder for silver, brass, iron.\nSilver solder for steel joints\nSilver solder, more fusible\nGold solder\nBismuth solder\nBismuth soider\nBismuth solder\nBismuth solder\nBismuth solder\nPewterers solder\nComposition.\nTin, 1; lead, 3\nTin, 1; lead, 2\nTin, 1; lead, 2\nTin, 1%; lead, 1\nTin, 2; lead, 1....\nCopper, 2 zinc, 1\nGood tough brass, 5 zinc 1.\nCopper, 1; zinc, 1\nGood tough plate brass\nSilver, 19; copper, 1; brass 1\nSilver, 2; brass, 1\nSilver, 1; brass, 1\nSilver, 19; copper, 1; brass, 1.\nSilver, 5; brass, 5; zinc, 5\nGold, 12; silver, 2; copper, 4..\nLead, 4; tin, 4\nLead, 3; tin, 3\nLead, 2; tin, 2\nLead. 2; tin, 1\nLead, 3; tin, 5\nLead, 4; tin, 3\nbismuth, 1.\nbismuth, 1.\nbismuth, 1.,\nbismuth, 2\nbismuth, 3..\nbismuth, 2.,\nFlux. Fluxing point.\nR\nR\nR\nor Z\nor Z\nB\nB\nB\nB\nB\nB\nB\nB\nB\nB\nor Z\nor Z\nor Z\nor Z\nor Z\nor Z\n800° F.\n441° F.\n370° F.\n334° F.\n340° F.\n320° F.\n310° F.\n292° F.\n236° F.\n202° F.\nAbbreviations: R, resin; B, borax; Z, chloride of zinc.\nTable of Bismuth Solders.\nTin.\nLead.\nBismuth.\nMelts at\n4 parts\n3 parts\n2 parts\n1 part\n2 parts\n3 parts\n4 parts\n3 parts\n2 parts\nIpart\n1 part\n5 parts\n1 1 art\n1 part\n1 part\nIpart\n2 Darts\n3 parts\n320° Fahr.\n310 Fahr.\n229 Fahr.\n254 Fahr.\n236 Fahr.\n202 Fahr.\nBrass Solders.\nVery strong...\nStrong\nMedium\nMedium\nEasily fusible\nEasily fusible\nWhite solder\ntn\n0\nft\nft\no\no\n6\na\nd\nH\nu\no\no\no\n58\n53\n50\n54^\n34\n44\n57\n42\n47\n50\n43^\n66\n50\n28\nV/2\n4\n15\n2\nreddish yellow\nreddish yellow\nreddish yellow\nreddish yellow\nwhite\ngray\nwhite\nSilver Solders.— The following solders are re-\ncommended for special work\noz. dwt. gr.\n1. Fine silver.... 1\nShot copper 5\nTotal 15\n2. Fine silver 1\nShot copper 10\nTotal 1 10\n3. Fine silver.... ..0 16\nShot copper 12\nComposition 3 12\nTotal 1\n4. Fine silver 1\nComposition 10\nPure tin 2\nTotal.. 1 12\n5. Fine silver 1\nShotcopper.. 12\nPure spelter 3\nTotal 1 15\noz. dwt. gr.\n6. Fine silver 1\nShot copper 3\nArsenic 2\nTotal 15\n7. Fine silver 1\nComposition 6\nArsenic 1\nTotal 17\n8. Fine silver.. 10\nComposition 5\nTin 5\nTotal 1 10\n9. Fine silver 1\nTin 10\nArsenic 5\nTotal 1 15\n10. Fine silver 1\nComposition 15\nArsenic 1 6\nTotal.... 1 16 6\nSolders for Special Purposes.— The best solder\nfor platinum is fine gold. The joint is not only\nvery infusible, but it is not easily acted upon\nby common agents. For German silver joints,\nan excellent solder is composed of equal parts\nof silver brass and zinc. The proper flux is\nborax.\nSolders.\no\nO\n33\nu\nCD\nft\nft\no\nQ\na\nH\n2\n6\na\n55\nCS\nCD\n1\n4\n1\n1\n3\n2\n3\na\nIfl\n3\n2\n1\nw\nw\na\n.Sfl\nSo\n0 ft\n3\n360°\nPewterer s, soft\nM\n3\n2\n1\n1\n393\n500\nGold\n6\n1\n19\n4\n3\n2\n2\n4\n2\n1\n1\n1\n3\n475\n1,869\nHardest silver\n2\n2\n1\n2\n1\n1","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0542.jp2"},"539":{"fulltext":"Solders.\n527\nSolders.\nWhite Solders for Gold Work.\nNo.\nName.\nFine Silver.\nCopper.\nSpelter.\nFusing Point.\n1\n2\n3\nEasy\n14 parts\n4 parts....\n4J^ parts\n6 parts...\n1 part\n1)4 part\n1)4 part\n1,866° F.\n1,843° F.\n1,818° F.\n1,826° F.\n1,802° F.\n4\nCommon hard\n12^3 parts\n5\nCommon easy\nColored Solders for Gold Work.\nNo.\nName.\nFine Gold.\nFine Silver.\nShot Copper.\n1\n2\n3\nMedium gold solder\n123^ parts\n10 parts\n4 parts\n6)4 parts..\n3 parts.\n4 parts.\n5 parts.\nSilver Solders.\nNo.\nName.\nFine\nSilver.\nShot\nCopp r\nBrass.\nZinc.\nTin.\nArsen-\nic.\nCompo.\nS3\nO\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\n1\n16\nit\nS3\n+3\n5\n4\n5\na\nit\n9\ns\nS3\n+3\na\nM\n+3\nit\ndwt.\ndwt.\ndwt. grn.\n1\nHardest\n2\nSolder\n6\n10\n16\n3\nEasy\n4\nMedium\n1\n2\n15\n8\n4\n9\n5\n6\nEnameling\n612\n9 15\n7\n8\n5\n10\n10\n12\n12\n9\nEnameling\n10\nFiligree\n3 12\n11\n12\nChain\n2\n2\n3\n3\n2\n10\n13\nEasy chain\n10\n14\n15\nVery common\n12\n16\nloz.\n1 oz.\nSoldering.— To solder seams properly, the old\nsolder should be melted off the old tin nicely\nretinned, and strips of tin soldered over the\nold seam. The edges of the strips can be bent\nslightly in the locker, so they will not spring\nup while being soldered.\nFor Sealing Iron in Stone.\nLead 2 parts.\nZinc .1 part.\nFor Sealing Tops of Canned Goods.—\nLead 1J4 lb.\nTin 2 lb.\nBismuth 2 oz.\nThe lead is melted first, the tin added next,\nand finally the bismuth stirred in well just be-\nfore pouring. This makes a soft solder and the\ncans do not take much heat to open them.\nSoldering IAquid.—l. This liquid, which causes\nno rust on iron or steel, is prepared by cutting\nzinc into small pieces, dissolving in hydrochlo-\nric acid until the acid ceases to bubble. Add\nabout 34 part of the solution of ammonia, which\nneutralizes the acid. Dilute the whole quan-\ntity of liquid with an equal quantity of water.\n2. Dissolve in 12 parts of water ly^ parts gly-\ncerine and 1)4 parts lactic acid. This liquid is\nnot corrosive or injurious to workmen.\nSoldering Paste. A soldering paste is obtained\nby mixing starch paste with a solution of\nchloride of tin. This produces a liquid about\nthe consistency of syrup, which is more readily\napplied to the soldering seam than ordinary\nsoldering liquid. Used for soft soldering.\nA Useful Kind of Solder.— A soft alloy which\nattaches itself so firmly to the surface of metals,\nglass and porcelain, that it can be employed to\nsolder articles that will not bear a very high\ntemperature, can be made as follows\nCopper dust obtained by precipitation from a\nsolution of the sulphate by means of zinc is\nput in a cast iron or porcelain lined mortar and\nmixed with strong sulphuric acid, specific\ngravity T85. From 20 to 30 or 36 parts of the\ncopper are taken, according to the hardness de-\nsired. To the cake formed of acid and copper\nthere is added, under constant stirring, 70 parts\nof mercury. When well mixed the amalgam is\ncarefully rinsed with warm water to remove\nall the acid, and then set aside to cool. In ten\nor twelve hours it is hard enough to scratch\ntin. If it is to be used now, it must be heated\nso hot that when worked over and brayed in\nan iron mortar it becomes as soft as wax. In\nthis ductile form it can be spread out on any\nsurface, to which it adheres with great ten-\nacity when it gets cold and hard.— Polyt. Notiz-\nhlatt.\nSoldering Aluminum.— The following alloys\nare given:\n1. Aluminum 8 parts.\nZinc .92 parts.\n2. Aluminum 12 parts.\nZinc 88 parts.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0543.jp2"},"540":{"fulltext":"Solders.\n528\nSolders.\n3. Aluminum 15 parts.\nZinc 85 parts.\n4. Aluminum 20 parts.\nZinc. 80 parts.\nThe aluminum is first melted, the zinc added\ngradually, finally some fat is added, and the\nwhole is stirred with an iron rod and poured\ninto moulds. For flux use copaiba balsam, 3\nparts; Venice turpentine,! part, and a few drops\nof lemon juice. Dip the soldering- iron into\nthe same flux.\nArgentum Solder, Readily Fusible.—\nCopper 17^ parts.\nZinc 28^ parts.\nNickel 4 parts.\nBlack Solder.—\n1. Copper 2 lb.\nZinc 3 lb.\nTin 2 oz.\n2. Sheet brass 20 lb.\nTin 6 lb.\nZinc 1 lb.\nBrass or Copper, Yellow Solder for\n1. Copper 1 lb.\nZinc 1 lb.\n2. Stronger— Copper, 32 lb.; zinc, 29 lb.; tin,\nlib.\n3. Zinc, 2 parts, with borax; copper, 6 parts.\n4. For soldering- brass to platinum, put a\npiece of thick brass wire in a handle, and flat-\nten and file the end like the point of a solder-\ning- bit; dip this end in soldering fluid,\nand, holding it in the flame of gas or lamp,\nrun a little solder on it now, having put some\nfluid on the platinum, which will require to be\nsupported with a fine pair of tongs, place it\nnear the flame, but not in it, at the same time\nheating the brass wire in the flame with the\nother hand, and as soon as the solder melts it\nwill run on to the platinum; you must put\nvery little on, and take care the solder does not\nrun to the other side. Having applied solder-\ning fluid or rosin to the brass, hold the two\ntogether in any convenient manner, and warm\nthem in the flame till the sulder runs. It is\nbest to use rosin for electrical work, unless the\nwork can be separated and thoroughly cleaned.\n5. Soldering Brass. All kinds of brass may\nbe soldered with Bath metal solder (79 copper,\n21 zinc) or soft spelter, using borax as a flux.\nA good plan is to spread on a little paste of\nborax and water and lay a bit of tinfoil on\nthis, then heating till the tin melts and runs,\nand thus coats the surface. Work previously\ntinned in this way can be joined neatly and\neasily.\nBfass, to Solder Sheet.— For soldering with a\ncopper, use a solder made of 2 parts tin, 1 part\nlead, by weight melt, mix, and pour in small\nbars. For flux dissolve zinc in muriatic acid\nuntil no more will dissolve, add about one\ntenth its bulk of sal ammoniac, and dilute with\nquarter its bulk of water. Wet the sur-\nfaces to be soldered with this solution, using\na piece of wood or copper wire for this pur-\npose. Then, by rubbing the surfaces with the\ntinned point of the copper, a coating of tin\nwill be imparted. Put both surf aces thus pre-\npared together, and heat by applying the copper\nand a little solder to the outside of the seam.\nThe copper should be well tinned on the point,\nwhich may be done by heating the copper hot\nenough to freely melt pure tin. Rub a piece\nof sal ammoniac on a brick, then rub the\ncopper point on the brick, with tin or solder in\ncontact with the point. The tinning of the\ncopper point is essential for soldering.\nWhite Solder for Raised Britannia Ware\nTin, 50 lb.; copper, 4 lb.; tin, 2 lb.; antimony, 4 lb.\nCold or Chemical S.—A neat mode of solder-\ning for small articles Cut a piece of tin foil\nthe size of the surfaces to be soldered; dip a\nfeather in a solution of sal ammoniac, and\npaint over the surfaces of the metal; then place\nthem in their proper position, with the tin foil\nbetween; put it so arranged on a piece of iron\nhot enough to melt the foil; when cold they\nwill be found firmly fastened together.\nFor soldering without the use of an iron, the\nparts to be joined are made to fit accurately,\neither by filing or on a lathe. The surfaces are\nmoistened with soldering fluid, a smooth piece\nof tinfoil is laid on, and the pieces are pressed\ntogether and tightly wired. The article is then\nheated over the fire by means of a lamp until\nthe tinfoil melts. In this way two pieces of\nbrass can be soldered together so nicely that the\njoint can scarcely be found.\nFluxes.— 1. Muriatic acid with zinc dissolved\nin it till it will take no more.\n2. Dissolve zinc in hydrochloric acid until the\nacid will dissolve no more; dilute with water.\nCold Soldering.— Various nostrums have been\nproposed from time to time which profess to\nbe reliable methods of soldering without heat;\nbut when tried, they have generally proved use-\nless. The following recipe, which is due to Fletch-\ner, of Warrington, will be found to be more\ntruthworthy. It must be borne in mind that,\nthough the first preparation is tedious, a large\nquantity of the materials can be made at once,\nand the actual soldering process is as simple and\nquick as it well can be.\nFlux One part metallic sodium to 50 or 60\nparts of mercury. These combine on being\nwell shaken in a bottle. If this is too much\ntrouble, the sodium amalgam can be bought*\nready made, from any chemist or dealer in re-\nagents. This sodium amalgam must be kept in\na stoppered bottle closed from the air. It has\nthe property of amalgamating (equivalent to\ntinning- by heat) any metallic surface, cast iron\nincluded.\nSolder.— Make a weak solution of copper sul-\nphate, about 1 oz. to 1 qt. of water. Precipi-\ntate the copper by rods of zinc; wash the pre-\ncipitate two or three times with hot water;\ndrain the water off, and add, for every 3 oz. of\nprecipitate, 6 or 7 oz. mercury; add also a little\nsulphuric acid to assist the combination from\nthe two metals. When combined, they form a\npaste which sets intensely hard in a few hours,\nand this paste should be made, while soft, into\nsmall pellets.\nWhen wanted for use, heat one or more of\nthe pallets until the mercury oozes out from the\nsurface in small beads; shake or wipe them off,\nand rub the pellet into a soft paste with a small\nmortar and pestle, or by any other convenient\nmeans, until it is as smooth and soft as paint-\ner s white lead. This, when put on a surface\npreviously amalgamated by the sodium and\nmercury, adheres firmly, and sets perfectly\nhard in about three hours. The joint can be\nparted, if necessary, either by a hammer and\ncold chisel or by a heat about sufficient to melt\nplumbers solder.— Mechanics Own Book.\nCopper, Solder for.— Copper, 10 lb.; zinc, 9\nlb.\nSoldering Liquid for Copper and Bronze (G-au-\nduin s).— This liquid is prepared by mixing\nfinely pulverized cryolite and a solution of\nphosphoric acid, in spirits of wine.\nSolder for Copper, Iron, and Dark Brass.—\nCopper and zinc, equal parts melted together.\nFor pale brass use more zinc.\nSolder for Copper.— Copper, 10 lb.; zinc, 9 lb.\nSolder for Copper.— Melt together and thor-\noughly mix\nBrass 9 parts.\nZinc IVi parts.\nTin V/% parts.\nCoppersmith s Solder.\nLead 2^ parts.\nTin 5 parts.\nIf the copper is thick, heat by a naked fire; if\nthin, use a tinned copper tool. The flux is mu-\nriate or chloride of zinc, or resin. This solder\nwill also do for iron, cast iron or steel.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0544.jp2"},"541":{"fulltext":"Solders.\n529\nSolders.\nEnamel Solder.—\nCopper 25 parts.\nSilver 7*07 parts.\nGold 67*93 parts.\nVery Refractory Solders for Articles to be\nEnameled.—\nSilver 18 parts.\nGold 74 parts.\nSoldering Fat.—\nOliveoil 1*6 lb.\nTallow V/ 2 lb.\nColophony (pulverized) 12 oz.\nMelt these ingredients and let them Doil up.\nWhen this mixture has become cool add pt.\nof water, saturated with pulverized sal ammo-\nniac, stirring- constantly. This gives the mass\na yellow color. Used for soft soldering.\nSoldering of Glass and Porcelain with Metals.\nMr. Cailletet has recently made known to the\nSociete de Physique a process of soldering glass\nand porcelain with metals. Mechanists, physi-\ncists and chemists will appreciate the practical\nimportance of this process, which permits of\nadapting any metallic object whatever (cock,\ntube, conducting wire, etc.) to experimental\napparatus in such a way as to prevent any\nleakage, even under high pressures.\nThe process is very simple. The portion of\nthe tube that is to be soldered is first covered\nwith a thin layer of platinum. This deposit is\nobtained by covering the slightly heated glass,\nby means of a brush, with very neutral chloride\nof platinum, mixed with essential oil of cham-\nomile. The oil is slowly evaporated, and, when\nthe white and odoriferous vapors cease to be\ngiven off, the temperature is raised to a red\nheat. The platinum is then reduced and covers\nthe glass tube with a bright layer of metal. On\nfixing the tube thus metalized, and placed in a\nbath of sulphate of copper, to the negative\npole of a battery of suitable energy, there is de-\nposited upon the platinum a ring of copper,\nwhich should be malleable and very adhesive\nif the operation has been properly performed.\nIn this state, the glass tube covered with cop-\nper can be treated like a genuine metallic tube\nand be soldered by means of tin to iron, cop-\nper, bronze, platinum, and all metals that can\nbe united with tin solder.\nThe resistance and strength of such solder-\ning are very great. Mr. Cailletet has found\nthat a tube of his apparatus for liquefying\ngases, the upper extremity of which had been\nclosed by means of an adjutage thus soldered,\nresists pressures of more than 300 atmospheres.\nThe tube, instead of being platinized, may be\nsilverized by raising the glass covered with ni-\ntrate of silver up to a heat bordering on red.\nThe silver thus reduced adheres perfectly to\nthe glass, but numerous experiments have\ncaused platinizing to be preferred to silverizing\nin the majority of cases.— La Nature.\nGlaziers Solder.— Lead, 5 parts; tin, 1% part.\nThis melts at 500° F.\nGold Solder.— Copper, 24*24 parts; silver, 27*57\nparts; gold, 48*19 parts.\nHard Soldering.— Joints and catches may be\nfixed on brooches, of whatever kind they may\nbe, either by soft or hard solder. In the case\nof coin jewelry, hard solder is best. This may\nbe procured in small quantities of any obliging\njeweler; ten cents worth will do twenty jobs.\nIf not so procurable, get a small piece of good\nsilver and melt it up with about twice its\nweight of good brass wire; then hammer it out\nthin, and use as required. In melting the\nsolder use borax as a flux. Get a piece of pum-\nice stone, and rub one side flat, taking care\nthat the surface is clean; then fix the joint\nand catch in their respective positions on the\ncoin, having previously applied a little moist\nborax to the surfaces in contact, and bind\nthem over with fine ii*on wire, taking care in\nso doing that the wire does not touch the parts\nwhere the solder is required to flow. Molten\nsolder exhibits this peculiarity that, in what-\never part the greatest heat is applied, it flows\nto that point, so that if the heat is misapplied,\nthe solder flows anywhere but in the desired\nplace. Having bound the coin with wire on the\nflat side of the pumice stone, to prevent it\nslipping off, apply the little pieces of solder to\nthe joint and catch, and with the gas and blow-\npipe steadily raise the heat until the solder is\nseen to flow. Stop blowing at once then, and\nexamine to see if the connection is perfectly\nmade. If not, apply a little more borax and\nsolder, and repeat the operation of heating.\nThe flame, which should not be larger than the\ntop of a small wineglass, should be directed\njust a little behind the joint or catch, the solder\nbeing put the other side, and so be drawn under\nwhen it melts. When the parts are properly\nsoldered on, remove all traces of wire, and im-\nmerse in the vitriol solution composed of sul-\nphuric acid diluted with water (1 to 3 or 4;. Al-\nlow it to remain therein for an hour or two,\nwhen it must be taken out and swilled in clear\nwater. It should come out a pure dead white.\nIf it is desired that this white bloom be pre-\nserved, do not brush it in any way simply\nwipe dry, or dry in hot sawdust. If you require\nit to be bright, brush it with rouge or any pol-\nishing material, and rub up with chamois\nleather, To remove rivets from brooch joints,\nthe burr, or rivet head should be filed off, and\nthe pin pushed out either with a steel point or be\nremoved with the nippers by putting the point\nof one jaw on the broken pin, and the other on\nthe end of the rivet, and so force it a little way\nout, and then take hold of the protruding end\nwith both jaws and pull out. Another way\nis to put an old watch key in the vise, place\nthe joint over it i. e., resting upon it— and\ndrive the rivet out with hammer and pin push.\nThe holes of brooch joints and pins may readily\nbe opened with suitable broaches, which are\nlong, slender tools with four or five cutting\nedges upon them, and to be bought for about\nten cents at any trade tool shop. They are\nsometimes called rimers. To produce a good\nand tapered point to a pin, you will need a pin\nvise and filing block, together with rough and\nfine files and a burnisher. Take the pin vise in\nthe left hand, having previously fixed the pin\nfirmly in the center of the jaws, and with the\nfile in the right, and a shallow rut cut in the\nfiling block, proceed to file and twirl the pin\nvise with a rapid, steady motion, always ob-\nserving to keep the pin going in the opposite\nway to the thrust of the file. Bear in mind\nwhat you desire to obtain, and work to that\nend, always bearing on the file more to the side\nof the point. When roughly shaped, finish off\nwith a fine file, or Ayr stone, and burnish. In\ncutting the pin joint to fit, be sure to make it\nsquare with the brooch joint. Let the hole in\nthe pin joint be a shade larger than the others;\nthen, if the rivet is properly filed up, it may be\nforced in sufficiently tight to hold secure with\nlittle or no riveting over. The pin point should\nprotrude about J4 in. beyond the catch.— Eng-\nlish Mechanic.\nSolder for Iron and Brass.— If the metals are\nnot to be subjected to extreme heat after they\nare soldered together, the following method\nwill prove successful if carried out as explained\nbelow First make the iron clean and bright;\nthen afterward tin it by means of a little tin\nsolder and a small portion of clean rosin as a\nflux. This proceeding will require some degree\nof patience and time before it will be properly\naccomplished. The iron should be kept as\nwarm as possible during the process of tinning.\nWhen this is done, clean the piece of brass as\nbright and free from any dirt as possible; then\nafterward tin it over with the same solder,\nusing rosin as a flux. Now, if convenient,\nplace the two pieces of metal to be united in a\nvise; place a small portion of solder between\nwith a little rosin. Use the blowpipe. As the\nsolder gets gradually hotter between the two","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0545.jp2"},"542":{"fulltext":"Solders.\n530\nSpeise.\npieces of metal the vise should be drawn\ntighter, so as to insure a close joint. When set\nthe joint will be firm and strong. I once fas-\ntened a piece of crass to a piece of cast iron in\nthis way and found it both strong and durable.\nIf this method fails, it is only because it has\nnot been properly done.— Correspondent in Eny.\nMech.\nJewelers Soldering Fluid.— Add to alcohol as\nmuch chloride of zinc as it will dissolve. A\ngood soft solder for repairing is prepared from\nequal quantities of tin and lead from tea\nboxes.\nLaying Sheet Lead.— In laying sheet lead for\na flat roof, the joints between the sheets are\nmade either by rolls, overlaps or soldering. In\njoining by rolls, a long strip of wood two\ninches square, flat at the base and rounding\nabove, is placed at each seam; the edge of one\nsheet is folded round the rod and beaten down\nclose, and then the corresponding edge of the\nnext sheet is folded over the other. In over-\nlapping, the adjacent edges of the two sheets\nare turned up side by side, folded over each\nother and closely beaten down. Soldering is\nnot adopted when the other plans can be car-\nried out.\nLute for Soldering.— A lute for the joints of\niron vessels may be composed of 60 parts of\nfinely sifted iron filings and 2 parts of sal am-\nmoniac in fine powder, well mixed with 1 part\nof flowers of sulphur. This powder is made\ninto a paste with water and immediately ap-\nplied; in a few seconds it becomes hot, swells,\ndisengages ammonia and hydric sulphide, and\nsoon sets as hard as the iron itself.\nSolder, Magic, as Sold by Peddlers.— -Melt to-\ngether in a crucible at a very moderate heat,\nbismuth, 1 part; tin, 3 parts; lead, 2 parts, and\ncast in slender sticks.\nPewter and Britannia Metal.— I. Ten parts tin,\n5 parts lead, bismuth, 1 to 3 parts.\n2. Take 3 parts tin; lead, 1}4 parts; bismuth,\niy parts.\n3. Solder for Tin or Pewter.— Tin, 2 parts;\nlead, 1 part; bismuth, 1 part.\n4. Soldering Pewters and Compo. Pipes.—\nThese require powdered rosin as a flux, with\nvery thin strips of the more fusible solders,\ncare being taken that the soldering iron is not\ntoo hot.\nSoldering Platinum and Gold- To make pla-\ntinum adhere firmly to gold by soldering, it is\nnecessary that a small quantity of fine or 18\ncarat gold shall be sweated into the surface of\nthe platinum at nearly a white heat, so that\nthe gold shall soak into the face of the platin-\num; ordinary solder will then adhere firmly to\nthe face obtained in this manner. Hard solder\nacts by partially fusing and combining with\nthe surfaces to be joined, and platinum alone\nwill not fuse or combine with any solder at a\ntemperature anything like the fusing point of\nordinary gold solder.\nSilver Solder for Plated Metal.— Melt together\n10 dwts. of brass and 1 oz. pure silver.\nGerman Silver, to Solder.— To solder German\nsilver, pour out some spirit of salt in an earth-\nenware dish, and add a piece of zinc. Then\nscrape clean the edges to be soldered, and paint\nover with the spirit of salt. Apply a piece of\npewter solder to the point and melt with the\nblowpipe.\nSilver, Anti-oxidizerfor.—A wash of a paste of\nwhiting and water dried on the bright parts of\njewelry or silverware will save it from oxida-\ntion while soldering, but must not interfere\nwith the boraxed joint to be soldered.\nSoft Soldering.— The solder is an alloy of 2\nparts of tin to 1 part of lead, fusible at 340°; or,\nfor cheapness, the proportion is sometimes 3 to\n2, fusible at 334°. This substance is applied\nwith a hot copper bolt, or blowpipe flame.\nHeat, however, would soon cause the edges of\nthe metal again to oxidize; therefore, the edges\nare covered with a substance having a strong\nattraction for oxygen, and disposing the metal\nto unite to the solder at a low temperature.\nSuch substances are called fluxes, and are\nchiefly borax, resin, sal ammoniac, chloride of\nzinc, Venice turpentine, tallow or oil.\nHard Soldering Steel.— Solder will not run on\niron quite so well as on silver or brass. See\nthat the steel is clean and bright, use the borax\nas a thick paste, and the operation must be\nconcluded quickly.\nSolder for Steel Joints.—\nBrass 3 parts.\nCopper 1V j part.\nSilver 283^ parts.\nTo Remove Tarnish from Gold after Hard\nPolishing.— Paint the gold over before solder-\ning with a mixture of yellow ocher, ground up\nwith water and a small quantity of borax.\nAfter soldering throw it into a pickle of water,\n9 parts, and sulphuric acid, 1J^ part. If the\ngold is whitish looking and shows the silver\nalloy after being removed from this pickle, dip\na moment in a hot solution of sulphuric acid\nand saltpeter. Wash, polish first with rotten-\nstone and oil then after washing, again polish\nwith rouge.\nSteel Wire, to Solder. Mix 1 lb. lactic acid, 1 lb.\nglycerine and 8 lb. water, so as to have a clear\nsolution. This is non-corrosive, but does not\nwork as quickly as the ordinary soldering acid.\nSolder Wire.— Melt together equal parts of\ntin and lead and pour it through a vessel hav-\ning a very small opening into a tub of water.\nZinc and Galvanized Iron, Soldering. Zinc\nmay be soldered as readily as tin by using dilute\nhydrochloric acid its bulk of rain water\nadded) as a flux instead of rosin, and by taking\ncare to keep the soldering iron well heated.\nSoluble Glass. See Glass, and also\nSodium Silicate.\nSolution. Any menstruum having- dis-\nsolved in it sufficient of any soluble substance\nto impart to the liquid its peculiar properties is\na solution. The term solution, therefore, is ap-\nplicable to almost the entire range of liquids,\nbut is usually restricted, unless otherwise\ndesignated, as alcoholic or acetic solution, etc.,\nto those in which water is the menstruum.\nAlcohol comes after water, then ether, in their\npower of dissolving substances. The tempera-\nture and the degree of fineness of the sub-\nstance all affect the time which is required to\nmake a solution. Warm water will dissolve\nmost substances much faster than cold water.\nSolvent.— A solvent or menstruum is a\nliquid in which any substance is dissolved.\nSolvent, Glazier s.— 1. Dissolve soft soap\nin 3 times its weight of strong lye.\n2. Make a thin paste or cream with freshly\nslaked lime and twice its weight of pearlash\nand a little water.\nSorel s Alloy. See Alloys.\nSorel s Cement, See Cements- Sorel.\nSoy.— Genuine soy is a species of thick black\nsauce, imported from China, prepared with\nwhite haricots, wheat flour, salt and water;\nbut a spurious kind is made in England as fol-\nlows: Seeds of dolichos soja (peas or kidney\nbeans may be used for them), 1 gal.; boil till\nsoft add bruised wheat, 1 gal.; keep in a warm\nplace 24 hours; then add common salt, 1 gal.;\nwater, 2 gal.; put the whole into a stone jar,\nbung it up for two or there months, shaking it\nvery frequently; then press out the liquor;\nthe residuum may be treated afresh with water\nand salt, for soy of an inferior quality.\nSozodont. See the Teeth.\nSpecific Gravity. See Gravity., Spe-\ncific, and also the Appendix.\nSpecimens, to Preserve. See Anatom-\nical Preparations.\nSpeculum Metal. See Alloys*\nSpeise. See Regulus.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0546.jp2"},"543":{"fulltext":"Spermaceti.\n531\nStaining.\nSpence s Metal. See Alloys.\nSpermaceti.— A concretion prepared from\nthe oily matter of the head of the spermaceti\nwhale.\nSperm Oil. See Oils.\nSpirits of Wine. See Alcohol.\nSponges, to Bleach. See Bleaching.\nSpots and Stains, to Clean. See\nCleansing. (Spots and Stains.)\nSprings, to Temper. See Temper-\ning.\nSprinkle Green, for Books.— 1. Yellow\nthe edge then sprinkle with dark blue.\n2. French berries, 1 part soft water, 8 parts.\nBoil, and add a little powdered alum; then\nbring- it to the required shade of green, by add-\ning liquid blue.\nPurple— For Bookbinders.— 1. Logwood chips,\n4 parts powdered alum, 1 part soft water, 21\nparts boil until reduced to 16 parts, and bot-\ntle for use.\n2. Brazil dust (fine), and mix it with potash\nwater for use.\nRed— For Binders.— Brazil wood (ground),\n4 parts alum, 1 part vinegar, 4 parts water,\n4 parts. Boil until reduced to seven parts;\nthen add a small quantity of loaf sugar and\ngum. Bottle for use.\nSpruce Beer. See Beer, Spruce.\nSquibs. See Pyrotechny.\nStaining. See also Dyeing.\nAlabaster, to Stain or Color.— 1. Mix various\ncolored powders or solutions with the plaster,\nat the time of mixing it up with water. A little\nterra de Sienna, in very fine powder, or ground\nwith water, added to the water employed to\nmix up the plaster, imparts a pleasing color to\nbusts, statues, medallions, etc.\n2. Objects formed from the solid alabaster\nmay be stained in the same way, and with the\nsame materials as marble. See Marble.\nBricks, to Stain.— 1. For staining bricks red,\nmelt 1 oz. of glue in 1 gal. of water add a piece\nof alum the size of an egg, then }4 lb. Venetian\nred and 1 lb. of Spanish brown. Try the color\non the bricks before using, and change light or\ndark with the red or brown, using a yellow min-\neral for buff.\n2. For coloring black, heat asphaltum to a\nfluid state, and moderately heat the snrf ace of\nthe bricks and dip them.\n3. Or make a hot mixture of linseed oil and\nasphalt heat the bricks and dip them. Tar and\nasphalt are also used for the same purpose. It\nis important that the bricks be sufficiently hot,\nand be held in the mixture to absorb the color\nto the depth of t^ of an inch.\n4. Red Wash for Bricks.— Melt J^ oz. of glue\nin 2 qt. water. While hot put in a piece of alum\nabout half as large as an egg, J4 lb. Venetian\nred, and y% lb. Spanish brown. Try a little on\nthe bricks, let it dry; if the color is too light,\nadd more red and brown if too dark, add more\nwater.\nGlass, to Stain.— Glass staining may be done\nat home by the following process Spread over\nthe glass a strong gum water, and when dry lay\nit over the paper on which the design is\nsketched, and trace with a fine hair pencil all\nthe outlines. Dip the tube-like pencils in the\ncolors, and let them flow out upon the glass\nhave a care, and not touch the pencil to the\nglass. The lights and shades are produced in a\nvariety of ways one of the easiest, and espe-\ncially to beginners, is to take a goose quill cut\nin the shape of a pen, without the slit, and with\nit carefully take out the lights by lines and\nlittle dots. This part of glass staining is the\nmost exacting and difficult, as much of the\neffect depends upon the shading. The glass is\nthen ready for the kiln.\nHorn, to Stain.— 1. After having fine sand-\npapered the horns, dissolve 50 to 60 gr. nitrate\nof silver in 1 oz. distilled water. It will be\ncolorless. Dip a small brush in, and paint the\nhorns where they are to be black. When dry,\nput them where the sun can shine on them, and\nyou will find that they will turn jet black.\nWhen done, polish off.\n2. By boiling well in infusions of various\ncolored ingredients, and is done to imitate\ntortoise shell. Mix together pearlash, quick-\nlime, and litharge, with a sufficient quan-\ntity of water, and a little pounded dra-\ngon s blood, and boil them togeher for V 2\nhour apply this hot for black— iron, iron\nfilings, copperas, with vinegar applied on this.\n3. Black.— Burned lime 55 lb. are slaked in\na little water, so that a powder-like hydrate of\nlime is obtained; this is mixed with 22 lb.\nminium, and this mixture is formed into a\nthick paste with such lye as soap boilei S use,\nhaving a specific weight of T036. The articles\nof hox-n are placed in this solution for 24\nhours they are then taken out, rinsed off with\nwater, dried with a cloth, brushed over with\nrape-seed oil, and then again rubbed dry.\n4. Black.— Dissolve 0*14 oz. silver in 21 oz.\nnitric acid (aquafortis), and this solution is ap-\nplied several times to the article to be stained,\nbut it is absolutely necessary that the first coat\nshould be entirely dry before another is ap-\nplied. The articles are then burnished and\nmade bright.\nBlue.— Stain green, and then steep for a short\ntime in a weak solution of sulphate of indigo,\ncontaining a little cream of tartar.\nBrown.— Immerse in aqueous solution of\npotassium ferrocyanide, dry, and treat with a\nhot dilute solution of copper sulphate.\nGreen.— 1. Dissolve 0 52 oz. fine indigo car-\nmine in 21 oz. rain water. Then 0 175 oz. pure\npicric acid are dissolved in 21 oz. boiling hot\nrain water, and both solutions are mixed to-\ngether. A very beautiful, durable green color\nwill in this manner be obtained, and can be\nused for the various manipulations.\n2. Aniline green, 0*35. Dissolve in 4*2 oz. 90#\nalcohol, and the horn to be stained is treated\nwith this solution. All the different shades of\ngreen may be produced by adding blue or yel-\nlow stain.\n3. Copper, 4 2 oz. Cut up finely and gradu-\nally dissolved in 13 oz. nitric acid (aquafortis),\nand the articles to be stained are boiled in this\nsolution until they have assumed a fine green\ncolor.\n4. Steep in a solutiou of 2 parts of verdigris\nand 1 part of sal ammoniac.\nPurple.— 1. Logwood, 17*5 oz., are boiled in\n4*4 lb. milk of lime, and the same method is ob-\nserved as given in red.\n2. Use a strong aqueous solution of gold\nchloride.\nRed.— 1. Red Brazil wood, 17*5 oz., are boiled\nfor one hour in 4 4 lb. milk of lime and filtered\nthrough a cloth. The articles of horn, ivory or\nbone to be stained are boiled for one hour in a\nsolution of 1 05 oz. alum in 17*5 oz. water. They\nare then placed in the above stain, and allowed\nto remain there until the desired color has\nbeen produced. Articles stained in this man-\nner will acquire a beautiful purple color by\ndipping them in alum water.\n2. Soak in very dilute nitric acid for a few\nminutes and apply a strong infusion of cochi-\nneal in aqua ammonia.\n3. Bright Red.— Logwood, 8 75 oz., and 8*75 oz.\nred Brazil wood are boiled in 4 4 lb. milk of\nlime. It is applied in the same manner as 1.\n4. Tortoise Shell.— A rough dough is prepared\nfrom 17 5 oz. white litharge, 2*2 lb. finely pow-\ndered unslaked lime, 3 3 lb. soap boilers lye\nhaving a specific weight of T036. The places of\nthe horn which are to become dark are covered\nwith this dough, and the horn is allowed to re-\nmain in contact with the dough for about\ntwenty-four hours, until the latter has become\nentirely dry. The horn is then cleansed with a\nbrush.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0547.jp2"},"544":{"fulltext":"Staining.\n532\nStaining.\n5. Yellow.— Alum, 17 5 oz., free from iron,\nare dissolved in 4 4 lb. rain water. The articles\nare allowed to lie in this for one or two hours.\nIn the meanwhile 7 oz. yellow berries are boiled\nwith 4*2 oz. carbonate of potash in 2*2 lb. water\nfor one hour, and then strained. The articles\nstained with alum are placed in this decoction\nand allowed to lie in it for one hour. They are\nthen taken out and dried.\n6. Steep them in a solution of lead acetate\nand then, after drying 1 in a solution of bi-\nchromate of potash.\nIvory, to Stain. See also Dyeing.— For\nBlack.— Boil for a short time in a strained so-\nlution of logwood afterward immerse in a so-\nlution of iron sulphate.\nBlue.— Immerse for a short time in a dilute\nsolution of indigo carmine.\nYellow. Immerse for about fifteen minutes\nin a solution of potassium chromate.\nRed.— Macerate cochineal in vinegar, and boil\nin the liquid for a few minutes.\nViolet. Dye red first, then immerse for an\ninstant in solution of indigo carmine.\nGreen.— Dye yellow first, and afterward dip\ninto solution of indigo carmine.\nTo Stain Ivory Black.— The pieces are always\nfirst polished with whiting and water, and when\nwashed quite clean from the whiting, are then\nprepared for the stain by a short immersion of\nfrom three to five minutes in acidulated cold\nwater, in proportion of one part of muriatic\nacid, the ordinary acid of commerce, to 40 or 50\nparts of water, or in an equally weak solution\nof nitric acid. This cleansing fluid extracts the\ngelatine from the surface of the ivory, and is\nessential to the attainment of a perfectly uni-\nform color. Extreme cleanliness and the ab-\nsence of any grease or accidental soiling are as\nnecessary, with which view the work in process\nof staining is at no time touched by the fingers,\nbut is removed from one vessel to another by\nflat pieces of wood, attached to each other\nat one end by a flat metal spring, after the form\nof a pair of sugar tongs, separate pairs being-\nkept for different colors. Subsequently to its\ntreatment with the acid, the ivory is invariably\nagain placed in cold water that has been boiled,\nbefore it is transferred to the stain. Logwood\nStain is Make a decoction of 2 oz. of logwood\ndust in 1 qt. of water, and strain; dissolve 1 oz.\nof sulphate of iron in 1 qt. of water; then heat\nthe two stains in separate vessels to 100° F., and\nimmerse the ivory in the logwood stain for\nfifteen minutes; well wash, and then place it\nfor five minutes in the sulphate of iron stain.\n—Holtzapffel, Vol. II.—Tliomas Stow.\nLeather, to Stain.— To stain a sole leather bag\nsomewhat abraded a dark mahogany color.—\nAlkanet root 15 grn.\nAloes 30 grn.\nDragon s blood (all in powder) ..30 grn.\n95$ alcohol 500 grn.\nMoisten the bag with dilute nitric acid (1 part\nacid to 5 parts water by volume) and then apply\nabove solution. Repeat until dark enough.\nMarble, Blue Stain for.— Tincture or solution\nof litmus, or an alkaline solution of indigo.\nHeat the marble so that the liquid will just\nsimmer on the surface.\nPottery, Stains for.— In preparing these stains\nthe ingredients must be ground remarkably\nfine, and then so perfectly dried as not to leave\nthe least humidity, after which they must be\nground again with oil prepared for the pur-\npose, composed of 2 parts of balsam of sulphur,\n1 part of amber oil, and as much turpentine as\nwill render them of a proper consistency; they\nmay then be used with ease for painting vari-\nous devices on biscuit ware.\nBlue Stain.— Five parts blue calx, 2 parts frit\nfor glazes, without oxide of tin, 1 part flint\nglass, 1 part enamel blue.\nYellow Stain.— Three parts yellow under\nglaze, 1 part frit for glazes, J4 part chromate\nof iron.\nGreen Stain.— Three parts blue stain, 1 part\nyellow stain, part enamel blue green.\nWood Staining.— -The best woods for staining\nare those of close, even texture, as cherry,\nbeech, birch and maple. The wood should be\nperfectly dry, and planed and sandpapered\nvery smooth. Nearly all of the stains should be\napplied hot, as this causes them to penetrate\nthe pores more deeply. If the wood is to be\nvarnished many of the dyes used in cloth dye-\ning may be used in alcoholic solutions, but the\neffect is not equal to the regular stain. In case\nthe natural color of the wood prevents the\nwood being stained satisfactorily, bleach the\nwood by saturating with the following solu-\ntion:\nChloride of lime. 9 oz.\nSoda crystals 1 oz.\nWater 2)^ qt.\nThe wood may be bleached in this for hour.\nWash with a solution of sulphurous acid, then\nwith water.\nWood to Stain.— Black.— 1. Obtained by boil-\ning together blue Brazil wood, powdered gall\napples and alum, in rain or river water until it\nbecomes black. This liquid is then filtered\nthrough a fine organzine, and the objects\npainted with a new brush before the decoction\nhas cooled, and this repeated until the wood ap-\npears of a fine black color. It is then coated\nwith the following liquid: A mixture of iron\nfilings, vitriol and vinegar is heated (without\nboiling), and left a few days to settle. Even if\nthe wood is black enough, yet for the sake of\ndurability, it must be coated with a solution of\nalum and nitric acid, mixed with a little verdi-\ngris then a decoction of gall apples and log-\nwood dyes is used to give it a deep black. A\ndecoction may be made of brown Brazil wood\nwith alum in rain water, without gall apples\nthe wood is left standing in it for some days in\na moderately warm place, and to it merely iron\nfilings in strong vinegar are added, and both\nare boiled with the wood over a gentle fire.\nFor this purpose soft pear wood is chosen,\nwhich is preferable to all others for black\nstaining.\n2. One ounce nut gall broken into small pieces,\nput into barely J^ pt. vinegar, which must be\ncontained in an open vessel let stand for about\n14 hour add 1 oz. steel filings the vinegar will\nthen commence effervescing; cover up, but\nnot sufficient to exclude all air. The solution\nmust then stand for about 2J4 hours, when it\nwill be ready for use. Apply the solution with\na brush or piece of rag to the article, then let\nit remain until dry if not black enough, coat\nit until it is each time, of course, letting it re-\nmain sufficiently long to dry thoroughly. After\nthe solution is made, keep it in a closely corked\nbottle.\n3. One gaflon water, 1 lb. logwood chips, y%\nib. black copperas, J^ lb. extract of logwood, 34\nlb. indigo blue, 2 oz. lampblack. Put these\ninto an iron pot and boil them over a slow fire.\nWhen the mixture is cool, strain it through a\ncloth, add J4 oz. nut gall. It is then ready for\nuse. This is a good black for all kinds of cheap\nwork.\n4. Campeachy wood, 250 parts; water, 2,000\nparts; and copper sulphate, 30 parts; the wood\nis allowed to stand 24 hours in this liquor, dried\nin the air, and finally immersed in iron nitrate\nliquor at 4° B.\n5. Boil 8M oz. logwood in 70 oz. water and 1 oz.\nbluestone, and steep the wood for 24 hours.\nTake out, expose to the air for a long time, and\nthen steep for 12 hours in a beck of iron nitrate\nat 4° B. If the black is not fine, steep again in\nlogwood liquor.\n6. It is customary to employ the clear liquid\nobtained by treating 2 parts nowdered galls\nwith 15 parts wine, and mixing the filtered\nliquid with a solution of iron protosulphate.\nReimann recommends the use of water in the\nplace of wine.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0548.jp2"},"545":{"fulltext":"Staining.\n533\nStaining.\n7. Almost any wood can be dyed black by the\nfollowing means: Take logwood extract such\nas is found in commerce, powder 1 oz., and boil\nit in 3 4 pints water when the extract is dis-\nsolved, add 1 drm. potash yellow chromate\n(not the bichromate), and agitate the whole.\nThe operation is now finished, and the liquid\nwill serve equally well to write with or to stain\nwood. Its color is a very fine dark purple,\nwhich becomes a pure black when applied to\nthe wood.\n8. For black and gold furniture, procure 1 lb.\nlogwood chips, add 2 qt. water, boil 1 hour,\nbrush the liquor in hot, when dry give another\ncoat. Now procure 1 oz. green copperas, dis-\nsolve it in warm water, well mix, and brush\nthe solution over the wood it will bring out a\nfine back but the wood should be dried out-\ndoors, as the black sets better. A common\nstove brush is best. If polish cannot be used,\nproceed as follows Fill up the grain with\nblack glue— i. e., thin glue and lampblack-\nbrushed over the parts accessible (not in the\ncarvings); when dry, smooth down with fine\npaper. Now procure, say, a gill of French\npolish, in which mix 1 oz. best ivory black, or\ngas black is best; shake it well until quite a\nthick pasty mass; procure pt. brown hard\nvarnish, pour a portion into a cup, add enough\nblack polish to make it quite dark, then var-\nnish the work two thin coats are better than\none thick coat. The first coat may be glass-\npapered down where accessible, as it will look\nbetter. A coat of glaze over the whole gives a\nLondon finish.\nN. B.— Enough varnish should be mixed at\nonce for the job to make it all one color— i. e.,\ngood black.— Smither.\n9. For Table.— Wash the surface of table with\nliquid ammonia, applied with a piece of rag\nthe vavnish will then peel off like a skin after-\nward smooth down with fine sandpaper. Mix\nM lb. lampblack with 1 qt. hot water, adding a\nlittle glue size rub this stain well in let it\ndry before sandpapering it; smooth again.\nMind you do not work through the stain.\nAfterward apply the following black varnish\nwith a broad fine camel hair brush: Mix a\nsmall quantity of gas black with the varnish.\nIf one coat of varnish is not sufficient, apply\na second one after the first is dry. Gas black\ncan be obtained by boiling a pot over the gas,\nletting the pot nearly touch the burner, when\na fine jet black will form on the bottom, which\nremove, and mix with the varnish. Copper\nvessels give the best black it may be collected\nfrom barbers warming pots.\n10. Boil 17*5 oz. Brazil wood and 0*525 oz.\nalum for one hour in 2*75 lb. water. The col-\nored liquor is then filtered from the boiled\nBrazil wood and applied several times boiling-\nhot to the wood to be stained. This will assume\na violet color. This violet color can be easily\nchanged into black by preparing a solution of\n2*1 oz. iron filings and 1*05 oz. common salt in\n17*5 oz. vinegar. The solution is filtered and\napplied to the wood, which will then acquire a\nbeautiful black color.\n11. Boil 8*75 oz. gall nuts and 2*2 lb. logwood\nin 2*2 lb rain water for one hour in a copper\nboiler. The decoction is then filtered through\na cloth and applied several times while it is\nstill warm to the article of wood to be stained,\nIn this manner a beautiful black will be ob-\ntained.\n12. This is prepared by dissolving 0*525 oz. log-\nwood extract in 2 2 lb. hot rain water, and by\nadding to the logwood solution 0*035 oz. potash\nchromate. When this is applied several times\nto the article to be stained a dark brown color\nwill first be obtained. To change this into a\ndeep chrome black, the solution of iron filings,\ncommon salt and vinegar, given under 10, is\napplied to the wood, and the desired color will\nbe produced.\n13. Several coats of alizarine ink are applied\nto the wood, but every coat must be thor-\noughly dry before the other is put on. When\nthe articles are dry the solution of iron filings*\ncommon salt, and vinegar, as given in 10, is ap-\nplied to the wood, and a very durable black will\nbe obtained.\n14. According to Herzog, a black stain for\nwood, giving to it a color resembling ebony, is-\nobtained by treating the wood with two fiuids,\none after the other. The first fluid to be used\nconsists of a very concentrated solution of log-\nwood, and to 0*35 oz. of this fluid are added\n0*017 oz. alum. The other fluid is obtained by\ndigesting iron filings in vinegar. After the\nwood has been dipped in the first hot fluid, it is\nallowed to dry, and is then treated with the\nsecond fluid, several times if necessary.\n15. Sponge the wood with a solution of ani-\nline chlorhydrate in water, to which a small\nquantity of copper chloride is added. Allow it\nto dry and go over it with a solution of potas-\nsium bichromate. Repeat the process two or\nthree times, and the wood will take a fine black\ncolor.— Mechanics Own Book.\n16. Put iron filings, or the scales from a.\nsmith s forge, in a bottle, so as to fill it, say, a\nquarter full. Fill up with strong vinegar.\nShake this up a couple of times a day for three\nor four days. Now boil some ground logwood\nin water, so as to make a strong decoction.\nPut this while hot on the wood, and beforeit\nis quite dry put on the vinegar and iron,\nWhen the wood is allowed to dry quite before\nthe iron is put on, the inner grain of the wood\nremains red in places. Oil to get a good black.\n—Amateur Work. See Ebonizing below.\nBlue.— 1. Powder a little Prussian blue, and\nmix to the consistency of paint with bur;\nbrush it on the wood, and when dry size it with\nglue dissolved in boiling water apply luke-\nwarm, and let this dry also then varnish or\nFrench polish.\n2. Indigo solution, or a concentrated hot solu-\ntion of blue vitriol, followed by a dip in a solu-\ntion of washing soda.\n3. Prepare as for violet, and dye with aniline\nblue.\n4. A beautiful blue stain is obtained by grad-\nually stirring 0*52 oz. finely powdered indigo\ninto 4*2 oz, sulphuric acid of 60$, and by expos-\ning this mixture for twelve hours to a temper-\nature of 77° F. (25° C). The mass is then poured\ninto 11 to 13*2 lb. rain water, and filtered through\nfelt. This filtered water is applied several\ntimes to the wood, until the desired color has\nbeen obtained. The more the solution is di-\nluted with water, the lighter will be the\ncolor.\n5. 1*05 oz. finest indigo carmine, dissolved in\n8*75 oz. water, applied several times to the arti-\ncles to be stained. A very fine blue is in this,\nmanner obtained.\n6. Prepare as for violet, and dye with aniline\nblue.\n7. Brush it over with a strong, hot solution of\nnitrate of copper in water, and then go over\nthe work with a hot solution of carbonate of\nsoda (2 oz. to 1 pt. water).\n8. Boil 1 lb. indigo, 2 lb. woad, and 3 oz.\nalum in 1 gal. water, and apply with a brush.\nBrown.— 1. Various tones may be produced\nby mordanting with potash chromate, and ap-\nplying a decoction of fustic, of logwood, or of\npeacbwood.\n2. Sulphuric acid, more or less diluted, accord-\ning to the intensity of the color to be produced,\nis applied with a brush to the wood, previously\ncleaned and dried. A lighter or darker brown\nstain is obtained, according to the strength of\nthe acid. When the acid has acted sufficiently,\nits f urther action is arrested by the application\nof ammonia.\n3. Tincture of iodine yields a fine brown col-\noration, which, however, is not permanent un-\nless the air is excluded by a thick coating of\npolish.\n4. A simple brown wash is 34 oz. alkanet root,\n1 oz. aloes, 1 oz. dragon s blood, digested in 1 lb.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0549.jp2"},"546":{"fulltext":"Staining.\n534\nStaining:*\nalcohol. This is applied after the wood has been\nwashed with aqua regia, but is, like all the\nalcoholic washes, not very durable.\n5. Dissolve 1*5 oz. finest indigo carmine in 8 75\noz. water, applied several times to the articles\nto be stained. A very fine blue is in this man-\nner obtained.\n6. Dissolve 3*5 oz. French verdigris in 3 5 oz.\nurine and 8 75 oz. wine vinegar. The solution\nis filtered and applied to the article to be\nstained. Then a solution of 2*1 oz. potash car-\nbonate in 8*75 oz. rain water is prepared, and\nthe article colored with the verdigris is brushed\nover with this solution until the desired blue\ncolor makes its appearance.\n7. The newest processes of staining wood blue\nare those with aniline colors. The following\ncolors may be chosen for the staining liquor\nBleu de Lyon (reddish blue), bleu de lumiere\n(pure blue), light blue (greenish blue). These\ncolors are dissolved in the proportion of 1 part\ncoloring substance to 30 parts 90$ alcohol, and\nthe wood is treated with the solution.\n8. Dr. Stolzel gives a recipe for staining\nwood of a brown color. He first of all paints\nover the wood with a solution made by boiling\n1 part catechu (cutch or gambier) with 30 parts\nwater and a little soda. This is allowed to dry\nin the air, and then the wood is painted over\nwith another solution made of 1 part bichro-\nmate of potash and 30 parts water. By a little\ndifference in the mode of treatment and by\nvarying the strength of the solutions, various\nshades of color may be given with these mate-\nrials, which will be permanent, and tend to pre-\nserve the wood.\n9. Various tones may be produced by mor-\ndanting with chromate of potash, and applying\nthen a decoction of fustic, of logwood, or of\npeachwood.\n1. Cherry or Crimson Stain.—\nAlkanet i^oot 15 grn.\nAloes 30 grn.\nDragon s blood powdered 30 grn.\n95$ alcohol 500 grn.\nMix and let stand in a tightly corked bottle\nsome days. Go over the wood with dilute (1 in\n10) nitric acid first. This is pretty dark. You\nmay lighten by using more alcohol.\n2. For cherry stain, take of rain water, 3 qt.;\nannatto, 4 oz.; boil in a copper kettle till the an-\nnatto is dissolved, then put in a piece of potash\nthe size of a walnut, keep it on the fire for\nhalf an hour longer, and it is ready to bottle\nfor use. For rosewood stain, take alcohol, 1\ngal.; camwood, 2 oz.; set them in a warm place\ntwenty-four hours, then add extract of log-\nwood* 3 oz.; aquafortis, 1 oz.; and when dis-\nsolved it is ready for use.\n3. Red Stain for Bedsteads and Common\nChairs.— Archil will produce a very good stain\nof itself when used cold; but if, after one or\ntwo coats being applied and suffered to become\nalmost dry, it is brushed over with a hot solu-\ntion of pearlash in water, it will improve the\ncolor.\n4. To Give an Appearance of Age. Boil 3^\nlb. madder and 2 oz. logwood chips in a gal. of\nwater and brush well over while hot; when dry\ngo over the whole with pearlash solution; 2\ndrm. to the qt.\n5. Boil l 2 lb. logwood in 3 pt. of water, and\nadd oz. salt of tartar. Stain the wood with\nthe liquor boiling hot.\n6. Boil in 3^ lb. madder and 34 lb. fustic in 1\ngal. water; use hot, as before.\n7. Boil 1 lb. Brazil wood and 1 oz. of washing\nsoda in 1 gal. of water; apply hot, and then\nbrush over it, before dry, a solution of 2 oz.\nalum in 1 qt. of water.\n8. Ground Brazil wood, 1 lb.; water 3 qt.;\ncochineal, )4, oz.; boil the Brazil wood with\nwater for an hour, strain, add the cochineal, boil\ngently for half an hour, when it will be fit\nfor use. This is first applied, and then the var-\nnish, consisting of 95$ alcohol, y% gal.; add 6 oz.\ngum sandarac, 3 oz. gum mastic, and pt. tur-\npentine varnish; put the above in a tin can by\nthe stove, frequently shaking till well dissolved;\nstrain, and keep for use. If you find it harder\nthan you wish, thin with more turpentine var-\nnish.\nEbonizing.— 1. Boil 1 lb. logwood chips one\nhour in 2 qt. water; brush the hot liquor over\nthe work to be stained, lay aside to dry; when\ndry give another coat, still using it hot. When\nthe second coat is dry, brusn the following li-\nquor over the Avork One oz. green copperas\nto 1 qt. hot water, to be used when the copper-\nas is all dissolved. It will bring out an intense\nblack when dry. For staining, the work must\nnot be dried by fire, but in the sunshine, if pos-\nsible; if not, in a warm room, away from the\nfire. To polish this work, first give a coating of\nvery thin glue size, and when quite dry smooth\noff very lightly with No. paper, only just\nenough to render smooth, but not to remove\nthe black stain. Then make a rubber of wad-\nding about the size of a walnut, moisten the\nrubber with French polish, cover the whole\ntightly with a double linen rag, put one drop\nof oil on the surface, and rub the work with a\ncircular motion. Should the rubber stick, it re-\nquires more polish. Previous to putting the\nFrench polish on the wadding pledget, it ought\nto be mixed with the best drop black, in the\nproportion of 34 oz. drop black to a gill of\nFrench polish. When the work has received\none coat, set it aside to dry for about an hour.\nAfter the first coat is laid on and thoroughly\ndry, it should be partly papered off with No.\npaper. This brings the surface even, and at\nthe same time fills up the grain. Now give a\nsecond coat as before. Allow twenty-tour\nhours to elapse, again smooth off, and give a\nfinal coat as before. Now comes spiriting off.\nGreat care must be used here, or the work will\nbe dull instead of bright. A clean rubber\nmust be made, as previously described, but in-\nstead of being moistened with polish it must\nbe wetted with 90$ alcohol placed in a linen\nrag screwed into a tight even surface ball, just\ntouched on the face with a drop of oil, and\nthen rubbed lightly and quickly in circular\nsweeps all over the work from top to bottom.\nOne application of spirits is usually enough if\nsufficient has been placed on the rubber at the\noutset, but it is better to use rather too little\nthan too much at a time, as an excess will en-\ntirely remove the polish, when the work will\nhave to be polished again. Should this be the\ncase, paper off at once, and commence as at\nfirst. It is the best way in the end.— Smit her.\n2. Lauber dissolves extract of logwood in\nboiling water until the solution indicates 0°\nBaume. Five pints of the solution is then mix-\ned with 2J^ pints pyroligeneous iron mordant\nof 10° and pint of acetic acid of 2°. The\nmixture is heated for one quarter of an hour,\nand is then ready for use.\n3. To imitate black ebony, first wet the wood\nwith a solution of logwood and copperas, boil-\ned together and laid on hot. For this purpose,\n2 oz. logwood chips with V/% oz. copperas, to 1\nqt. water, will be required. When the work has\nbecome dry, wet the surface again with a mix-\nture of vinegar and steel filings. This mixture\nmay be made by dissolving 2 oz. steel filings in\npint vinegar. When the work has become\ndry again, sandpaper down until quite smooth.\nThen oil and fill in with powdered drop black\nmixed in the filler. Work to be ebonized\nshould be smooth and free from holes, etc. The\nwork may receive a light coat of quick drying\nvarnish, and then be rubbed with finely pul-\nverized pumice and linseed oil until very\nsmooth.\n4. One gal. strong vinegar, 2 lb. extract log-\nwood, Yz lb. green copperas, 34 lb. China blue,\nand 2 oz. nut gall. Put these in an iron pot,\nand boil them over a slow fire till they are well\ndissolved. When cool, the mixture is ready\nfor use. Add to the above 3^ pi nt iron rust,","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0550.jp2"},"547":{"fulltext":"Staining.\n535\nStaining.\nwhich may be obtained by scraping- rusty\nhoops, or preferably by steeping- iron filings in\na solution of acetic acid or strong vinegar.\n5. Common ebony stain is obtained by pre-\nparing- two baths the first, applied warm, con-\nsists of a logwood decoction, to every quart of\nwhich 1 drm. alum is added the second is a\nsolution of iron filings in vinegar. After the\nwood has dried from the first, the second is ap-\nplied as often as is required. For the first\nnamed bath, some substitute 16 oz. gall nut,\n4 oz. logwood dust, and 2 oz. verdigris, boiled\nin a sufficient quantity of water. A peculiar\nmethod of blackening- walnut is in use in Nurn-\nberg. On one of the Pegnitz Islands there is a\nlarge grinding mill, turned by the stream,\nwhere iron tools are sharpened and polished.\nThe wood is buried for a week or more in the\nslime formed by the wheels when dug out it\nis jet black, and so permeated by silica as to\nbe in effect petrified. Another way to ebonize\nflat surfaces of soft work is to rub very fine\ncharcoal dust into the pores with oil. This\nworks beautifully with the European linden\nand American white wood. A brown mahog-\nany-like stain is best used on elm and walnut.\nTake a pint decoction of 2 oz. logwood in which\ny% oz. barium chloride has been dissolved. This\ngives also, when diluted with soft water, a\ngood oak stain to ash and chestnut. But the\nmost beautiful and lasting of the browns is a\nconcentrated solution of potash permanganate\n(mineral chameleon). This is decomposed by\nthe woody fiber, and forms hydrated manga-\nnese oxide, which is permanently fixed by the\nalkali.\n6. For the fine black ebony stain, apple, pear,\nand hazel wood are the best woods to use;\nwhen stained black, they are most complete\nimitations of the natural ebony. For the stain\ntake gall apple, 14 oz.; rasped logwood, 3^\noz.; vitriol, 1% oz.; verdigris, 1% oz. For the\nsecond coating a mixture of iron filings (pure),\nZy% oz., dissolved in strong wine vinegar 1^\npint is warmed, and when cool the wood\nalready blackened is coated 2 or 3 times with\nit, allowing it to dry after each coat. For\narticles which are to be thoroughly saturated,\na mixture of 1% oz. sal ammoniac, with a\nsufficient quantity of steel filings, is to be\nplaced in a suitable vessel, strong vinegar\nEoured upon it, and left for 14 days in a gently\neated oven. A strong lye is now put into a\nsuitable pot, to which is added coarsely bruis-\ned gall apples and blue Brazil shavings, and\nexposed for the same time as the former to the\ngentle heat of an oven, which will then yield a\ngood liquid. The woods are now laid in the\nfirst named stain, boiled for a few hours, and\nleft in it for 3 days longer; they are then\nplaced in the second stain and treated as in the\nfirst. If the articles are not then thoroughly\nsaturated, they may be once more placed in the\nfirst bath, and then in the second. The polish\nused for wood that is stained black should be\nwhite (colorless) polish, to which a very\nlittle finely ground Prussian blue should be\nadded.\n1. Wash with a concentrated aqueous solu-\ntion of logwood extract several times then\nwith a solution of iron acetate of 14° B., which\nis repeated until a deep black is produced.\n8. Ebonized Wood Furniture. The follow-\ning information is from the Monthly Magazine\nof Pharmacy, etc.:\nBlack Stains for Wood.— There are two kinds\n—the ordinary black stain for different kinds\nof wood and the black ebony stain for certain\nwoods which approach nearer to ebony in hard-\nness and weignt. The ordinary black wood\nstain is obtained by boiling together blue Brazil\nwood, powdered gall apples and alum in soft\nwater until it becomes black. This liquid is\nthen filtered, and the objects painted with a\nnew brush before the decoction has cooled, and\nthis repeated until the wood appears of a fine\nblack color; it is then coated with the follow-\ning liquid A mixture of iron filings, vitriol\nand vinegar is heated (without boiling), and\nleft a few days to settle. If the wood is black\nenough, yet for the sake of durability it must\nbe further coated with a solution of alum and\nnitric acid, mixed with a little verdigris, then\na decoction of gall apples and logwood dyes\nare used to give it a deep black. Soft pear\nwood is preferable to all others for black stain-\ning. For the fine black ebony stain, apple,\npear and hazel wood are the best woods to use;\nwhen stained black, they are most complete\nimitations of the natural ebony. For the stain\ntake gall apple, 14 oz.; rasped logwood, :]}4 oz.;\nvitriol, 1% oz.; verdigris, 1M oz. For the second\ncoating a mixture of iron filings (pure), 3^ oz.,\ndissolved in strong wine vinegar, of a liter\n(1% pt. nearly), is warmed, and when cool the\nwood already blackened is coated 2 or 3 times\nwith it, allowing it to dry between each coat.\nFor articles which are to be thoroughly satu-\nrated a mixture of 1% oz. sal ammoniac, with a\nsufficient quantity of steel filings, is to be placed\nin a suitable vessel, strong vinegar poured upon\nit, and left for fourteen days in a gently heated\noven. A strong lye is now put into a suitable\npot, to which is added coarsely bruised gall\napples and blue Brazil shavings, and exposed\nfor the same time as the former to the gentle\nheat of an oven, which will then yield a good\nliquid. The woods are now laid in the first\nnamed stain, boiled for a few hours and left in\nit for three days longer; they are then placed\nin the second stain and treated as in the first.\nIf the articles are not then thoroughly satu-\nrated, they may be once more placed in the\nfirst bath and then in the second. The polish\nused for wood that is stained black should be\nwhite (colorless) polish, to which a very little\nfinely ground Prussian blue should be added.\nEnglish Mechanic.\n9. Beech, pear tree, or holly steeped in a\nstrong liquor of logwood or galls. Let the\nwood dry, and wash over with solution of iron\nsulphate. Wash with clean water, and repeat\nif color is not dark enough. Polish either with\nblack or common French polish.\n10. Oak is immersed for forty-eight hours in\na hot saturated solution of alum, and then\nbrushed over several times with a logwood de-\ncoction prepared as follows: Boil 1 part best\nlogwood with 10 of water, filter through linen,\nand evaporate at a gentle heat until the volume\nis reduced one-half. To every qt. of this add\n10 to 15 drops of a saturated solution of indigo,\ncompletely neutral. After applying this dye\nto the wood, rub the latter with a saturated\nand filtered solution of verdigris in hot concen-\ntrated acetic acid, and repeat the operation\nuntil a black of the desired intensity is ob-\ntained. Oak thus stained is said to be a close as\nwell as handsome imitation of ebony.\n11. One lb. logwood chips, 3 pt. water boil to\n1 pt- apply hot to wood let dry then give\nanother coat; let dry slowly; sandpaper\nsmooth; mix 1 gill vinegar with 3 tablespoon-\nfuls iron or steel filings let stand five hours,\nthen brush on wood let dry then give ano-\nther coat of the first. This sends the vinegar\ndeeper into the wood and makes a denser black;\nafter which paper smooth. Then polish with\nwhite French polish, as the white brings out\nthe black purer than common French polish.\nThe woods observed to take on the stain best\nare pear tree, plane tree, and straight reeded\nbirch; mahogany does not stain nearly so well\nas the former woods.\n12. Get 1 lb. of logwood chips and boil them\ndown in enough water to make a good dark\ncolor; give the furniture 3 or 4 coats with a\nsponge then put some rusty nails or old iron\ninto a bottle /with some vinegar, and when it\nbegins to work give the furniture a coat of the\nvinegar. This, if you have well darkened it\nwith the first, will give you a good black. Oil\nand polish in the usual Avay, rubbing down first\nwith fine paper if required. A quicker way is","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0551.jp2"},"548":{"fulltext":"Staining-.\n536\nStaining-.\nto give the wood a coat of size and lampblack,\nand then use gas black in your polish rubber.\n13. Make a strong decoction of logwood by\nboiling 1 lb. in 1 qt. water for about 1 hour\nadd thereto a piece of washing soda as large as\na hazel nut. Apply hot to the wood with a soft\nbrush. Allow to dry, then paint over the wood\nwith a solution of iron sulphate (1 oz. to the pt.\nof water). Allow this to dry, and repeat the\nlogwood and iron sulphate for at least 3 times,\nfinishing off with logwood. Once more allow\nto dry thoroughly; then sandpaper off very\nlightly (so as not to remove the dye) with No.\npaper. Now make a very thin glue size, boil in\nit a few chips of logwood and a crystal or two\nof iron sulphate, just sufficient to make it inky\nblack. Paint this lightly over the work, allow\nto dry once more, again sandpaper lightly, and\nfinally either varnish with good hard white var-\nnish or polish with French polish and drop\nblack.— Mechanic s Own Book.\nTake 1 gal. of strong vinegar, 2 lb. extract of\nlogwood, ]4, lb. green copperas, J4 lb. China\nblue, and 2 oz. nutgalls. Put these in an iron\npot, and boil them over a slow fire till they are\nwell dissolved. When cool, the mixture is\nready for use. Add to the above J^ pt. iron\nrust, obtained by steeping iron filings in strong\nvinegar. The above makes a perfect jet black,\nequal to the best black ebony; and the recipe is\na valuable one. Builder and Woodworker.\nFloors.— 1. Get the wood clean, have some\nVandyke brown and burnt sienna ground in\nwater, mix it in strong size put on with a\nwhitewash or new paint brush as evenly as you\ncan. When dry, give two coats of copal or oak\nvarnish.\n2. If the floor is a new one, have the border\nwell washed. Polish with glasspaper, rubbing\nalways with the grain of the wood. Varnish\nwith good oak varnish, put coloring matter\ninto the varnish to suit your taste, but umber\nis best if the floor is old and blackened, paint\nit.\n3. If old floors, you will not make much of\nstaining anything but black. The floor is to\nbe well washed (lime and soda is best— no soap),\nthe dye painted on, and, when dry, sized over\nand varnished with elastic oak varnish.\n4. Take Vi lb. logwood chips, boil them briskly\nfor half an hour in about 5 qt, rain water, and\nstrain through muslin. To this liquor add 6\noz. annatto (in the form of cake— not the roll);\nadd also 1 lb. of yellow wax, cut up in very\nsmall pieces. Place these over the lire, and let\nthe wax melt gently, stirring it all the while.\nWhen melted, take the mixture off the fire; do\nnot let it boil. Then with a paint brush lay it on\nthe fkoor as hot as possible, brushing it always\nthe way of the grain. Next day polish with a\nhard, flat brush made of hair, which may have\na strap nailed to the back of it, in which to in-\nsert the foot. The floor is afterward kept\nbright with beeswax alone, a little of which is\nmelted and put on the brush. Take care that\nthe floor is thoroughly dry before commencing\noperations.\n5. Melt some glue size in a bottle; next get a\npiece of rag, roll it into a ball so that it will fit\nthe hand nicely, cover this with a bit of old cal-\nico to make a smooth face; dip this into the\nsize, and rub in a bit of brown umber; then go\nahead with your floors, working the stuff light\nor dark as required. Keep the motion with the\ngrain of wood; when dry, stiffen with polish-\ners glaze.\n6. Take Judson s dyes of the color required,\nmix according to the instructions given with\neach bottle, and apply with a piece of rag, pre-\nviously trying it on a piece of wood to see if\ncolor will suit; rub with sandpaper to get off\nany roughness that may be raised with the\ndamp, and varnish with fine pale hard varnish,\nthen slightly sandpaper and varnish again.\nAnother method is to boil 1 lb. logwood in an\nold boiler, then apply with a piece of rag\nwhere the stain is required; when thoroughly\ndry, sandpaper as before, and well rub with\nbeeswax to polish. This last process looks\nbest when finished, but it requires a lot of elbow\ngrease for a few months, and is extremely dur-\nable. To prevent the stain running where you\ndo not want it, paste some stout paper.\nGreen.— 1. Mordant the wood with red liquor\nat 1° B. This is prepared by dissolving sepa-\nrately in water 1 part sugar of lead and 4 parts\nof alum free from iron; mix the solutions and\nthen add part of soda crystals and let settle\novernight. The clear liquor is decanted off\nfrom the sediment of lead sulphate, and is then\ndiluted with water till it marks 1° B. The wood\nwhen mordanted is dyed green with berry\nliquor and indigo extract, the relative propor-\ntions of which determine the tone of the\ngreen.\n2. Verdigris dissolved in 4 parts water.\n3. Four and two-tenths oz. copper, cut up\nfinely, are gradually dissolved in 13 oz. nitric\nacid (aquafortis), and the articles to be stained\nare boiled in this solution until they have as-\nsumed a fine green color.\n4. Mordant the wood with red liquor at 1° B.\nThis is prepared by dissolving separately in\nwater 1 part sugar of lead and 4 parts of alum\nfree from iron; mix the solutions and then add\n3 *2 of a part of soda crystals and let settle over-\nnight. The clear liquor is decanted off from\nthe sediment of sulphate of lead, and is then\ndiluted with water till it marks 1° B. The\nwood when mordanted is dyed green with berry\nliquor and extract of indigo, the relative pro-\nportions of which determine the tone of the\ngreen.\nThe wood, mordanted, at above directed, can\nalso be dyed a fine blue with extract of indigo.\n5. Dyeing Veneers Green.— Put the veneers\nin a box or trough with clean water, and let\nthem remain immersed for three or four\ndays, changing the water once or twice as occa-\nsion may require. Let them dry about twelve\nhours before they are put into the dye; by ob-\nserving this the color will strike quicker and be\nof a brighter hue. Prepare the dye as follows\nTo 1 gal. of strong vinegar add 1 lb. of the best\nverdigris finely ground, 2 oz. sap green and 2\noz. indigo. Place this in an iron or copper\nvessel, with as many of the veneers as the\nliquor will cover and boil for several hours or\nuntil the requisite intensity of color is ob-\ntained.\nGray.— 1. Grays may be produced by boiling\n17 oz. orchil paste for H, hour in 7 pt. water.\nThe wood is first treated with this solution, and\nthen, before it is dry, steeped in a beck of\niron nitrate at 1° B. An excess of iron gives\na yellowish tone otherwise a blue gray is pro-\nduced, which may be completely converted\ninto blue by means of a little potash.\n2. One part silver nitrate dissolved in 50 parts\nof distilled water; wash over twice; then with\nhydrochloric acid, and afterward with water\nof ammonia. The wood is allowed to dry in\nthe dark, and then finished in oil and polished.\nMahogany.— 1. Boil y% lb. madder and 2 oz.\nlogwood chips in 1 gal. water, and brush well\nover while hot. When dry, go over with pearl-\nash solution, 2 drm. to the qt. By using it\nstrong or weak, the color can be varied at\npleasure.\n2. Soak 1 lb. stick varnish in 2 qt. water until\nall the color is dissolved out; strain off the\nwater, and add to the residue 25 drm. powdered\nmadder. Set the mixture over the fire until it\nis reduced to M of its original volume. Then\nmix together 25 drm. cochineal, 25 drm. kermes\nberries, 1 pt. spirits of wine, and }4 oz. pearl-\nash, out of which the color has been washed by\nsoaking in a gill of soft water. Add this mix-\nture to the decoction of madder and varnish*\nstirring well together, and adding so much\naquafortis as will bring the red to the desired\nshade.\n3. Dark Mahogany.— Introduce into a bottle\n15 gr. alkanet root, 30 gr. aloes, 30 gr. powdered","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0552.jp2"},"549":{"fulltext":"Staining.\n537\nStaining.\ndragons blood, and 500 gr. 95$ alcohol, closing\nthe mouth of the bottle with a piece of blad-\nder, keeping it in a warm place for 3 or 4 days,\nwith occasional shaking, then filtering the\nliquid. The wood is first mordanted with nitric\nacid, and when dry washed with the stain once\nor oftener, according to the desired shade;\nthen, the wood being dried, it is oiled and\npolished.\n4. Light Mahogany.— Same as dark mahogany,\nbut the stain being only applied once. The\nveins of true mahogany may be imitated by the\nuse of iron acetate skillfully applied.\n5. The following process is recommended in\nWiederhol s Trade Circular: The coarse wood\nis first coated with a colored size, which is pre-\npared by thoroughly mixing up, in a warm\nsolution, 1 part commercial glue in 6 of water,\na sufficient quantity of the commercial mahog-\nany brown, which is in reality an iron oxide,\nand in color stands between so-called English\nred and iron oxide. This is best effected by\nadding in excess a sufficient quantity of the dry\ncolor with the warm solution of glue, and\nthoroughly mixing the mass by means of a\nbrush until a uniform paste is obtained, in\nwhich no more dry red particles are seen. A\nr trial coat is then laid upon a piece of wood. If\nit is desired to give a light mahogany color to\nthe object, it is Only necessary to add less, and\nfor a darker color more, of the brown body\ncolor. When the coat is dry, it may be tested,\nby rubbing with the fingers, whether the color\neasily separates or not. In the former case,\nmore glue must be added until the dry trial\ncoat no longer perceptibly rubs off with the\nhands. Having ascertained in this way the\nlight condition of the size color with respect\nto tint and strength, it is then warmed slightly,\nand worked through a hair sieve by means of a\nbrush. After this, it is rubbed upon the wood\nsurface with the brush, which has been care-\nfully washed. It is not necessary to keep the\ncolor warm during the painting. Should it be-\ncome thick by gelatinizing, it may be laid on\nthe wood with the brush, and dries more\nrapidly than when the color is too thin. If the\nwood is porous and absorbs much color, a\nsecond coat may be laid on the first 1 when dry,\nwhich will be sufficient in all cases. On drying-,\nthe size color appears dull and unsightly, but\nthe following coat changes immediately the\nappearance of the surface. This coat is spirit\nvarnish. For its production 3 parts 90$ alcohol\nare added in excess to 1 part of red acaroid\nresin in one vessel, and in another 10 parts\nshellac with 40 of 80$ alcohol. By repeated\nagitation for 3 or 4 days, the spirit dissolves the\nresin completely. The shellac solution is then\npoured caref ully from the sediment, or better\nstill, filtered through a fine cloth, when it may\nbe observed that a slight milky turbidity is no\ndetriment to its use. The resin solution is best\nfiltered into the shellac solution by pouring\nthrough a funnel loosely packed with wadding.\nWhen filtered, the solutions of both resins are\nmixed by agitating the vessel and letting the\nvarnish stand a few days. The acaroid resin\ncolors the shellac, and imparts to it at the same\ntime the degree of suppleness usually obtained\nby the addition of Venetian turpentine or lin-\nseed oil. If the varnish is to be employed as a\ncoat, the upper layers are poured off at once\nfrom the vessel. One or two coats suffice, as a\nrule, to give the object an exceedingly pleas-\ning effect. The coats dry very quickly, and\ncare must be taken not to apply the second\ncoat until the first is completely dry.\n6. Boil 7*5 oz. madder, 8*75 oz. rasped yellow\nwood, for 1 hour in 5 5 lb. water, and the\nboiling liquor is applied to the articles until the\ndesired color has been produced.\n7. Digest 1*05 oz. powdered turmeric and\n1 05 oz. powdered dragons blood, 8*75 oz.\nof 80% strong alcohol, and when the latter\nseems to be thoroughly colored it is filtered\nthrough a cloth. The filtrate is heated and ap-\nplied warm to the article.\n8. Boil 17*5 oz. madder, 8*75 oz. ground log-\nwood, for 1 hour in 5*5 lb. water. This is\nfiltered while still warm, and the warm liquor\nis applied to the wood. When this has become\ndry, and it is desired to produce a darker ma-\nhogany color, a solution of 0*525 oz. potash\ncarbonate in 4 4 lb. water is applied to the\nwood. This solution is prepared cold, and fil-\ntered through blotting paper.\n9. Dissolve 0 35 oz. aniline in 8*75 oz. 90%\nalcohol. Then another solution of 035 oz.\naniline yellow in 17*5 oz. 90% alcohol is\nmade, and this is added to the aniline\nsolution until the required reddish-yellow\ncolor is obtained. By adding a little of a\nsolution of aniline brown (0 35 oz. aniline\nbrown in 10*5 oz. 90$ alcohol), the color\nis stil. more completely harmonized, and\na tint very closely resembling mahogany can\nbe given to elm and cherry wood with this\nmixture.\n10. Boil 07 oz. logwood in 3*5 oz. water\ndown to about y 2 This is then filtered, and\n0 12 oz. baryta chloride is dissolved in it.— Me-\nchanic s Own Book.\n11. Water, 1 gal.; madder, 8 oz.; fustic, 4 oz.\nBoil lay on with a brush while hot, and while\nwet streak it with black to vary the grain.\nThis imitates Honduras mahogany. Madder,\n8 oz.; fustic, 1 oz.; logwood, 2oz.; water, 1 gal.\nBoil and lay on while hot. This imitates Span-\nish mahogany. Varnkh in the usual way with\nthe following Put in a bottle 2 oz. gum sand-\narac, 1 oz. shellac, y% oz. gum bengamin, 1 oz.\nVenice turpentine, 1 pt. 90$ alcohol. Color\nred with dragon s blood, or yellow with saffron.\nStand in a warm spot till gum dissolves, when\nstrain for use.\n12. Make a stain of Venetian red, adding a\nlittle ocher put them in a stone jar, with\na little glue, size, and water, and boil. The\nwood must be smoothly planed and sand-\npapered. Apply the stain hot with a lump of\nrag, and when well coated let it stand for a few\nminutes, and rub off as much as will come with,\nclean rags. Then allow it to dry thoroughly,\nand sandpaper, using the finest flour paper,\nwhen it will be ready for varnishing. This\nmakes a dull red, and shows the original grain\nof the wood. To make a brighter red use\ndragon s blood instead of Venetian red.\n13. Boil 1 part logwood in 8 parts water. Ap-\nply this decoction to the wood. When dry\ngive it two or three coats of the following var-\nnish: 1 part dragon s blood dissolved in 20-\nparts of 90$ alcohol.\n14. Stain. Rectified naphtha, 1 pint; amber\nresin, 4 oz.; gum shellac, 2 oz.; terra sienna, 1 oz.;\ndragon s blood, 1J4 oz. Let it stand in a warm\nplace for two days shake frequently. Strain\nthrough muslin before use. Varnish. Recti-\nfied naphtha, 1 pint; shellac, 4 oz.; resin, piece\nas large as an egg.\n15. To Stain Beech a Mahogany Color.— Put 2\noz, of dragon s blood, broken in pieces, into a\nqt of 90$ alcohol; let the bottle stand in a warm\nplace, shake it frequently; when dissolved it is\nfit for use.\n16. Imitation of Mahogany.— Plane the sur-\nface smooth, and rub with a solution of nitrous\nacid. Then apply with a soft brush 1 oz. of\ndragon s blood dissolved in about 1 pt. of alco-\nhol, and with of an oz. of carbonate of soda\nmixed and filtered. When the brilliancy of polish\ndiminishes, it may be restored by the use of a\nlittle cold drawn linseed oil.\nMetallic Stain for Wood.— Soaking the wood\nin a weak solution of nitrate of silver, and then\nexposing it to the light, will produce an intense\nblack color. Another way is to boil some chips\nof logwood in water for about a quarter of an\nhour. Then wash the piece of wood with it\nthree or four times, allowing it to dry after\neach washing. Lastly, wash the wood, by\nmeans of a common painting brush, with j.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0553.jp2"},"550":{"fulltext":"Staining.\n538\nStaining.\nmixture prepared as follows Put 1 oz. of steel\nor iron filings into 2 oz. of vinegar, keep the\nphial near the fire so as to he gently heated for\nabout two hours, then decant the vinegar and\nkeep it for use.\nOak.— 1. Mix powdered ocher, Venetian red\nand umber, in size, in proportions to suit; or a\nricher stain may be made with raw sienna,\nburnt sienna and vandyke. A light yellow stain\nof raw sienna alone is very effective.\n•2. Darkening Oak.— Lay on liquid ammonia\nwith a rag or brush. The color deepens imme-\ndiately, and does not fade; this being an arti-\nficial production of the process which is in-\nduced naturally by age. Potash bichromate,\ndissolved in cold water and applied in a like\nmanner, will produce a very similar result.\n8. In Germany, the cabinet makers use very\nstrong coffee for darkening oak. To make it\nvery dark Iron filings with a little sulphuric\nacid and water, put on with a sponge, and al-\nlowed to dry between each application until\nthe right hue is reached.\n4. Whitewash with fresh lime, and when dry\nbrush off the lime with a hard brush, and dress\nwell with linseed oil. It should be done after\nthe wood has been worked, and it will make\nnot only the wood, but the carving or mould-\ning, look old also.\n5. Use a strong solution of common washing\nsoda, say one or two coats, until the proper\ncolor is obtained. Or you may try potash car-\nbonate. Paper and finish off with linseed oil.\n6. A decoction of green walnut shells will\nbring new oak to any shade, or nearly black.\n7. A good method of producing the peculiar\nolive brown of old oak is by fumigation with\nliquid ammonia; the method has many advant-\nages beyond the expense of making a case or\nroom air tight and the price of the ammonia.\nIt does not raise the grain, the work keeping\nas smooth as at first. Any tint, or rather,\ndepth of the color, can be given with certainty;\nand the darker shade of color will be found\nto have penetrated to the depth of a veneer,\nand much farther where the end grain is ex-\nposed, thus doing away with the chance of an\naccidental knock showing the white wood.\nThe coloring is veiy even and pure, not de-\nstroying the transparency of the wood. It is\nadvisable to make the furniture from one kind\nof stuff, not to mix English oak with Riga, and\nso on. They both take the color well, but there\nis a kind of American red oak that does not\nanswer well. In all cases care must be taken\nto have no glue or grease on the work, which\nwould cause white snots to be left. The deal\n{portions of the work are not affected in the\neast, neither does it affect the sap of oak.\nThe best kind of polish for furniture treated in\nthis manner is wax polish, or the kind known\nas egg shell polish. The process of fumigation\nis very simple. Get a large packing case, or\nbetter still, make a room in a corner of the\npolishing shop about 9 ft. long, 6 ft. high and 3\nft. 6 in. wide; paste paper over the joints; let the\ndoor close on to a strip of India rubber tub-\ning; put a pane of glass in the side of box or\nhouse to enable you to examine the progress\nof coloring. In putting in your work see that\nit does not touch anything to hinder the free\ncourse of the fumes. Put two or three dishes\non the floor to hold the ammonia; about y% pt.\nis sufficient for a case this size. The ammonia\ndiffers in purity, some leaving more residue\nthan other. Small articles can be done by\nsimply covering them with a cloth, having a\nlittle spirits in a pot underneath. A good use-\nful color can be given by leaving the things\nexposed to the fumes overnight. The color\nlightens on being polished, owing to the trans-\nparency thus given to the wood. Mechanic s\nOwn Booh.\n8. A good brown oak stain is produced by\npreparing the wood with a solution of 1 oz.\ncatechu, boiled in V/%, pt. of water. When dry,\nbrush over a solution of bichromate of potash,\n1 oz. to l l 2 pt. of water.\n9. Equal parts of American potash and pearl-\nash, 2 oz. each to about 1 qt. water, give a good\noak stain. Use carefully, as it will blister the\nhands. Add water if the color be too deep.\nOrange Stain.— Yellow or orange stains gen-\nerally result from the use of nitric acid or tur-\nmeric. Thus 2*1 oz. finely powdered turmeric\nare digested for several days in 17*5 oz. 80$ alco-\nhol, and then strained through a cloth. This so-\nlution is applied to the articles to be stained.\nNitric acid diluted with 3 parts of water is like-\nwise used. A hot concentrated solution of\npicric acid can likewise be used.\nPurple.—\n1. Logwood chips. 1 lb.\nWater Mgal.\nPearlash 4 oz.\nPowdered indigo 2 oz.\nBoil the logwood in the water till the full\nstrength is obtained, then add the pearlash and\nindigo, and when the ingredients are dissolved\nthe mixture is ready for use, either warm or\ncold. This gives a beautiful purple.\n2. To stain wood a rich purple or chocolate\ncolor, boil lb. madder and J4 lb. fustic in 1\ngal. water, and when boiling brush over the\nwork until stained. If the surface of the work\nshould be perfectly smooth, brush over with a\nweak solution of nitric acid; then finish with the\nfollowing: Put 4 oz. dragon s blood and 1 oz.\nsoda, both well bruised, into 3 pt. 90$ alcohol.\nLet it stand in a warm place, shake frequently,\nstrain and lay on with a soft brush, repeating\nuntil a proper color is gained. Polish with\nlinseed oil or varnish.\n3. Rasped logwood, 2 2 lb.; rasped Lima red\ndyewood, 5*5 lb., are boiled together for one\nhour in 5*5 lb. water. It is then filtered through\na cloth and applied to the article to be stained\nuntil the desired color has been obtained. In\nthe meanwhile a solution of 0 175 oz. potash\ncarbonate in 17 5 oz. water has been prepared,\nand a thin coat of this is applied to the article\nstained red. But strict attention must be paid\nnot to apply too thick a coat of this solution,\nor else a dark blue color will be the result.\nRed.— The wood is plunged first in a solution\nof 1 oz. of curd soap in 35 fl. oz. of water, or\nelse is rubbed with the solution, then magenta\nis applied in a state of sufficient dilution to\nbring out the tone required. All the aniline\ncolors behave very well on wood.\nRosewood.— Take alcohol, 1 gal.; camwood, 2\noz., set them in a warm place twenty-four\nhours, then add extract of logwood, 3 oz.;\naquafortis, 1 oz., and when dissolved it is ready\nfor use.\nSixteenth Century Finish.— Oak may be given\nthe appearance of age by sponging with sul-\nphuric acid and water, equal parts, or, what is\npreferable, staining with umber in thin shellac\nvarnish.\nViolet.— The wood is treated in a bath made\nup with 4J4 oz. olive oil, the same weight of soda\nash, and 2J% pt. of boiling water, and it is then\ndyed with magenta, to which a corresponding\nquantity of tin crystals have been added.\nViolins, Stains for. See also Cherry Stains\nabove.\nTo darken the wood rub over it nitric acid,\nsp. gr. 1*2, and, after standing twelve hours,\nwash and dry thoroughly. Then use either of\nthe following\n1. Prepare a groundwbrk with strong hot\naqueous solution of logwood extract; then ap-\nply a solution of 3 oz. potash, 3 oz. red Sanders,\n2^j lb. gum shellac, and 1 gal. water, dissolved\nover a quick fire.\n2. Boil 1 oz. logwood extract in 1 pt. water\n(soft), and add oz. cream of tartar. Use the\nstain hot, and give several coats if necessary,\ndrying between each. Use a saw edged grain-\ning brush and asphaltum varnish, sufficiently\nthinned, to produce the proper markings.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0554.jp2"},"551":{"fulltext":"Staining.\n539\nStarches.\nWalnut Stains.— 1.- Light Walnut.— Dissolve 1\npart potassium permanganate in 30 partsof pure\nwater and apply twice in succession; after an\ninterval of five minutes, wash with clean water\nand when dry oil and polish.\n2. Dark Walnut.— Same as for light walnut,\nbut after the washing with water the dark\nveins are made more prominent with a solution\nof iron acetate.\n3; In the winter season get some privet ber-\nries (black), which grow in most gardens, and\nput 2 oz. in pt. solution of liquid ammonia.\nThis, applied, to pine, varnished or polished,\ncannot be detected from real walnut itself.\n4. Take 1 gal. very thin size shellac add 1 lb.\ndry burnt umber, 1 lb. dry burnt sienna, and Vi\nlb. lampblack. Put these articles into a jug\nand shake frequently until they are mixed.\nApply one coat with a brush. When the work\nis dry rub down with fine paper and apply one\ncoat of shellac or cheap varnish. It will then\nbe a good imitation of solid walnut and will be\nadapted for the -back boards of mirror frames,\nfor the back and inside of casework and for\nsimilar work.\n5. Take 1 gal. strong vinegar, 1 lb. dry burnt\number, y% lb. fine rose pink, lb. dry burnt\nVandyke brown. Put into a jug and mix well;\nlet the mixture stand one day and it will then\nbe ready for use. Apply this stain to the sap\nwith a piece of fine sponge. It will dry in half\nan hour. The whole piece is then ready for\nthe filling process. When the work is com-\npleted the stained part cannot be detected even\nby those who have performed the job. By\nmeans of this i-ecipe wood of poor quality and\nmostly of sap can be used with good effect.\n6. Darkening Walnut.— Slaked lime, 1 part, to\n4 parts of water, will do for some kinds of wal-\nnut; a weak solution of iron sulphate for\nothers; and yet again for other kinds a weak so-\nlution of pearlash. Try each on the wood and\nchoose the one you like best.\n7. To give to walnut a dark color resembling\nrosewood, Hirschberg uses a solution of 017\noz. potash, bichromate in 1*05 oz. water. This\nsolution is applied to the walnut with a sponge\nand the wood is then pumiced and polished.\n8. By a simple staining, furniture of pine or\nbirch wood can be easily made to appear as if\nit had been veneered with walnut veneer. For\nthis a solution of 3*15 oz. potash manganate\nand 3* 15 oz. manganese sulphate in 5 25 qt. hot\nwater, is made. This solution is applied to the\nwood with a brush, and must be repeated sev-\neral times. The potash manganate is decom-\nposed when it comes in contact with the woody\nfiber, and thus a beautiful and very durable\nwalnut color is obtained. If small wooden ar-\nticles are to be stained in this manner, a very\ndiluted bath is prepared; the articles are dipped\ninto it, and kept there one to nine minutes,\naccording as the color is desired fighter or\ndarker.\n9. Water, 1 qt.; sal soda, oz.; Vandyke\nbrown, 2y oz.; potassium bichromate, 34 to\noz.; boil for ten minutes, replacing water lost\nby evaporation. Use hot and allow the work\nto dry thoroughly before oiling or varnishing.\n10. Reliable walnut stain for furniture,\nmostly hard wood. Spirits of turpentine, 1 gal.;\npulverized asphaltum, 2 lb.; dissolve in an iron\nkettle on a stove, stirring constantly.\n11. Boil 1 qt. water and add first \\y, oz. wash-\ning soda and then, a little at a time, 2}/z oz. of\nVandyke brown. When the foaming has nearly\nceased add J4 oz. bichromate of potassa dis-\nsolved in a little boiling water; stir well and\nfilter through a cloth. The color may be deep-\nened with a drop or two of Brunswick black or\nmade of a warmer tone by increasing the\namount of water and adding more bichromate\nof potassa. It should be applied witlia brush\nquickly, and without much lapping and when\ndry it takes a good coat of varnish.\n12. Apply several coats of diluted asphalt\nvarnish, or a solution of potassium perman-\nganate, 1 oz. to the quart. Another process\nconsists in treating with a hot solution of 1 oz.\nof extract of green walnut shells and when\nhalf dry, applying 1 oz. of potassium bichromate\nin 5 oz. of hot water.\n13. Black Walnut. A decoction of green\nwalnut husks dried and boiled in lye is recom-\nmended.\n14. Dragon s blood and lampblack mixed in\nwood alcohol may be used, well rubbed into the\nwood.\n15. One gallon strong vinegar, 1 lb. dry burnt\number, y% lb. fine rose pink, y 2 lb. dry burnt\nVandyke brown. After mixing and standing\nfor a day it is ready for use. Apply with a\nsponge.\n16. Take 1 lb. of logwood chips, y 2 lb. of red\nsanders, y gal. of water. Boil over a fire until\nthe full strength Is obtained. Apply the mix-\nture, while hot, to the wood, with a brush. Use\none or two coats to obtain a strong, red color.\nThen take 1 gal. of spirits of turpentine and 2\nlb. of asphaltum. Dissolve in an iron kettle on\na stove, stirring constantly. Apply, with a\nbrush, over the red stain, to imitate rosewood.\nTo make a perfect black, add a little lamp-\nblack. The addition of a small quantity of\nvarnish with the turpentine will improve it.\nThis stain, applied to birch wood, gives as good\nan imitation of rosewood as on black walnut,\nthe shade on the birch being a little brighter.\nYellow.— 1. Mordant with red liquor, and dj r e\nwith bark liquor and turmeric.\n2. Turmeric dissolved in wood naphtha.\n3. Aqua regia (nitro muriatic acid), diluted in\n3 parts water, is a much used, though rather\ndestructive yellow stain.\n4. Nitric acid gives a fine permanent yellow,\nwhich is converted into dark brown by sub-\nsequent application of tincture of iodine.\n5. Wash over with a hot concentrated solu-\ntion of picric acid, and, when dry, polish the\nwood.\n6. Orange Yellow Tone to Oak Wood.— Ac-\ncording to Niedling, a beautiful orange yellow\ntone, much admired in a chest at the Vienna\nExhibition, may be imparted to oak wood by\nrubbing it in a warm room with a certain mix-\nture until it acquires a dull polish, and then\ncoating it after an hour with thin polish, and\nrepeating the coating of polish to improve the\ndepth and brilliancy of the tone. The in-\ngredients for the rubbing mixture are about\n3 oz. tallow, oz. wax, and 1 pt. oil of turpen-\ntine, mixed by heating together and stirring.\n7. Nitric acid (aquafortis), 5 oz., is com-\npounded with P57 oz. rain water, and the article\nto be stained is brushed over with this. Undi-\nluted nitric acid gives a brownish yellow color.\n8. Digest 2*1 oz. finely powdered turmeric for\nseveral days in 17 5 oz. alcohol 80$ strong, and\nthen strain through a cloth. This solution is\napplied to the articles to be stained. When\nthey have become entirely dry, they are bur-\nnished and varnished.\n9. Dissolve 1 57 oz. potash carbonate in 4*2 oz.\nrain water. This solution is poured over 0*52\noz. annatto, and this mixture is allowed to stand\nfor three days in a warm place, being frequent-\nly shaken in the meanwhile. Itis then filtered,\nand 0*175 oz. spirit of sal ammoniac is added to\nit. The stain is noAV ready, and the articles to\nbe stained will acquire a very beautiful bright\nyellow color by placing them in it.\n10. Bright Golden Yellow. Digest 0*52 oz.\nfinely powdered madder for twelve hours with\n2 l oz. diluted sulphuric acid, and then filter\nthrough a cloth. The articles to be stained are\nallowed to remain in this fluid three to four\ndays, when they will be stained through.\nStaining Microscopical Preparations. See\nMicroscopy.\nStamping Inks. See Inks.\nStarches.— Relative Stiffening Strength of.\n—Starting with a pure starch obtained by ma-\nceration and infusion, and taking its stiffening","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0555.jp2"},"552":{"fulltext":"Starch.\n540\nSteel.\npower as 100, we obtain the respective value of\nother starches, thus Pure dry rice starch, 100;\nrice starch, No. 1, 95 rice starch, No. 2, 91; pure\ndry maize starch, 87; corn starch, 85; rye\nstarch, 81; buckwheat starch, 81; oat starch,\n80; acorn starch, 80; wheat starch, 80; barley\nstarch, 78 Bermuda arrowroot, 75 Natal ar-\nrowroot, 73; pure potato starch, 68; potato\nfarina, 65.\nLustrine Alsacienne (Starch Gloss).—\nBorax 2)4 oz.\nGum arabic 2)4 oz.\nSpermaceti 2)4 oz.\nGlycerine oz.\nDistilled water 2J4 pt.\nA few drops of some sweet scented essence.\nAdd 6 spoonfuls lustrine to Q% oz. boiling\nstarch.\nLaundry Starch.— Rub 1 oz. best potato\nstarch up with a little cold water, so as to re-\nduce all the lumps add a tablespoonf ul of best\nloaf sugar, an equal quantity of dextrin, a little\nsoluble indigo, and a lump of pure paraffin\nabout the size of a nutmeg. Then add a pt.\nof boiling water, and boil, with occasional stir-\nring, for half an hour (not less). The starch\nshould be strained through a linen cloth before\nusing.\nLiquid Starch Glace.— One oz. each of gum\narabic and borax are dissolved in 10 oz. of\nwater 1 oz. each of white wax and spermaceti\nare melted, and while liquid are rubbed with\nthe solution of borax and 10 drops oil of cloves\nto make emulsion, mixing them thoroughly. A\nteaspoonf ul of this mixture in a pt. of starch\ngives a fine polish. It may also be applied\nafter starching by rubbing over the starch with\na cloth and then polishing with the iron.—\nPharm. Era.\nStarch, Gloss Liquid.— Borax, saturated solu-\ntion, 2 parts tragacanth mucilage, 1 part\nmix. One tablespoonf ul to 1 pt. of starch.\nTo Improve Starch.— To each bowl of starch,\nadd 1 teaspoonf ul of Epsom salts, and dissolve\nin the usual way by boiling. Articles starched\nwith this will be stiffer, and will be rendered to\na certain degree fireproof.\nUse corn starch, boil to smooth paste, cool,\nand starch the goods dry quickly. Before\nironing, dampen down in thin, raw (unboiled)\nstarch water. A little gum arabic or pure\nwhite wax is often added to the boiled starch to\nafford fine gloss. Iron in the usual way, with a\ncommon sad iron then dampen slightly with a\nclean cloth and the starch (raw) water, and\npolish briskly with a polishing iron.\nStarch Paste. See Pastes.\nStarch, Potato. Convert the potatoes\ninto a pulp by means of a scraping knife or an\ninstrument similar to a nutmeg grater; throw\nthe pulp upon a fine linen cloth in a large fun-\nnel, and allow pure cold water to run through\nthe mass slowly for several hours. By this\nmeans all the minute starch granules may be\nwashed through the cloth; and on allowing the\nwater to stand for some time, these will settle\nto the bottom, and maybe removed by decant-\ning the water and straining.\nStatuary, Mould for. See Moulds.\nSteam. See Boilers, Safety Valve.—\nExhaust steam should never be discharged\ninto a brick chimney. It is liable to disinte-\ngrate the mortar and thus to render the entire\nstructure unstable.\nSteam. Steam Boiler Cement. See Ce-\nments.\nSteam, Velocity of.— Through a 6 inch pipe\nopen at the end at 20 pounds pressure above\nthe atmosphere the velocity is 1,413 feet at 60\npounds pressure, 1,447; at 100 pounds pressure,\n1,464 feet per second.\nStearine.— The solid portion of fats which\nis insoluble in cold alcohol. Melt pure strained\nmutton suet in a glass flask, with 7 or 8 times\nits weight of ether; let the solution cool. Place\nthe pasty mass in a cloth, and press strongly,\nas rapidly as possible to avoid evaporation.\nDissolve the solid portion in ether, and. allow\nthe solution to crystallize. The product will\nbe nearly pure.\nSteatite. Soapstone, talc.\nSee Annealing.\nSee Blacking Met-\nSteel, to Anneal.\nSteel, to Blacken.\nals.\nSteel, to Blue. See Bluing.\nSteel, to Bronze. See Bronzing.\nSteel, to Brown. See Browning\nMetal!\nSteel, Burnt, to Restore.— 1. To 4 lb.\nfine white sand pulverized, add )4 lb. sal am-\nmoniac, 34 lb. cop.peras and )4 lb. resin, all pul-\nverized. Mix well. When the steel is hot,\nsprinkle and let cool. This process will restore\nany burnt steel.\n2. Sal ammoniac 1 lb.\nBorax 3 lb.\nPrussiate of potash lb.\nRosin 2 oz.\nPulverize; add 2 gills each of water and alco-\nhol, boil to a stiff paste in an iron kettle. The\nburnt steel is dipped while hot in the composi-\ntion and hammered slightly.\n3. Borax 4^ oz.\nSal ammoniac 12 oz.\nPrussiate of potash 4^t oz.\nBlue clay 3 oz.\nResin lb.\nWater J^ pt.\nAlcohol 34 pt.\nSimmer over the fire till it dries to a powder.\nHeat the steel, dip in the powder and ham-\nmer.\n4. Horn filings 3 parts.\nTallow 15 parts.\nSal ammoniac 1)4 part.\nPulverized charcoal 1)4 part.\nSoda 1)4 part.\nPulverize the hard materials, mix with the\ntallow. Heat the burnt steel to a cherry red\nand plunge in the mixture; when the steel be-\ncomes cold, it may be hardened in the usual\nmanner.\nSteel, Hard, to Brill.— Get some silver-\nsteel wire and fit it to a pump drill; file the\npoint long and trianglar; make it hot and\nplunge it into a wet bar of yellow soap; next,\ntouch upon an oil stone short at the point, and\ndrill with raw linseed oil or camphor and\nturps.\nSteel, to Etch. See Etching.\nSteel, Fluxes for. See Fluxes.\nSteel, to Frost. Clean and polish the\nmetal, flow it quickly with dilute nitric acid\nand, when the proper point is reached, wash\nwell in running water.\nSteel, to Gild. See Gilding.\nSteel, to Harden. See Hardening.\nSteel, Lacquers for. See Lacquers.\nSteel, Thin, to Perforate.— Holes in hard\nsteel may be made with nitric acid. To apply\nit, cover the steel plate, at the place where you\nwish the hole, with a thick layer of melted wax\nwhen cold make a hole in the wax of the size\nyou want the hole in the plate then put on\none or more drops of strong nitric acid leave\nit on for some time wash off with water, and,\nif not eaten through, apply other drops of the\nsame liquid, and continue this until the plate is\nperforated.— Ironmonger.\nSteel, to Polish. See Polishing.\nSteel, to Prevent Bust on. See Bust.\nSteel, to Soften.— Place a quantity of new-\nly-burnt lime in a damp place, where it will","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0556.jp2"},"553":{"fulltext":"Steel.\n541\nStoppers.\nall in the form of flour put it in an iron box.\n3eat the articles to dull red; clean off all\n;cale, and put in lime, and completely cover\n.vith lime cover box over with iron lid and\neave until cold. The more lime and larger the\n30x, the better. Keep air tight if possible.\nSteel, Solder for. See Soldering.\nSteel, Softening.— One tablespoonf ul each\nhydrochloric acid and saltpeter to 1 gal. of\nneater. Heat the steel and cool in it then heat\nto soften by letting cool. Cast steel thus\ncreated will weld with sand.\nSteel, Straightening Hardened^ —In\nhardening- and tempering tools they sometimes\nspring,- to the great annoyance of the workmen,\nand not seldom the tool is reheated and rehard-\nlened. In most cases this may be avoided. To\nstraighten apiece of steel already heated and\ntempered, heat it lightly— not enough to draw\nthe temper— and it may be straightened by\nblows from a hammer, if the character of the\ntool will admit of such treatment, or, as in\ncase of a tap, it may be straightened by a\nheavy mallet on a hard wood block. Although\nthe steel, when cold, would break like glass\nwith this treatment, when slightly warmed it\nwill yield to moderately heavy blows unin-\njured.\nSteel, to Temper. See Tempering.\nSteel, Composition to Toughen.— Re-\nSin, 2 lb.; tallow, 2 lb.; black pitch, 1 lb.; melt\ntogether and dip in the steel when hot.\nSteel, to Weld. See Welding.\nStencil Inks. See Inks.\nStephenson s Alloy. See Alloys—\nWhite Metal.\nStereotype Composition. See Cem-\nents, Janniri s.\nStereotype Metal. See Alloy.\nStereotyper s Paste. See Pastes.\nSternutatories for Cold in the Head.\n—1. Witch hazel leaves, dried, 4^ parts mar-\njoram blossoms, V/% parts lavender blossoms,\n1}4 parts. Powder finely and mix.\n2. Snuff, 12 parts valerian leaves, 12 parts\na few drops oil of lavender and marjoram.\nStoichiometry, or Chemical Calcula-\ntions.— Conversion of Thermometer Degrees.\n°C to °R, multiply by 4 and divide by 5.\n°C to °F, multiply by 9, divide by 5, then add\n32.\n°R to °C, multiply by 5 and divide by 4.\n°R to °F, multiply by 9, divide by 4, then add\n32\n~°F to °R, first subtract 32, then multiply by\n4, and divide by 9.\n°F to °C, first subtract 32, then multiply by\n5, and divide by 9.\nTo Find the Percentage Composition, having\nthe Formula Given. Find the molecular weight\nfrom the formula; then let wt.= weight.\nMolecul;ir wt. _ Wt. of constituent in a molecule\n100 Percentage of constituent\nOr we may proceed thus\nMultiply the atomic weight of the element\nby 1, 2, 3, etc., according to the number of atoms\nof the element there are in the molecule\nmultiply the number thus obtained by 100, and\ndivide by the molecular weight.\nTo Find the Weight of any Element Con-\ntained in any Given Weight of a Compound\nSubstance.—\nMolecular wt. Wt. of constituent in a molecule\nGiven wt. Required wt.\nOr, multiply the atomic weight of the ele-\nment by 1, 2, 3. etc., according to the number of\natoms of the element there are in the mole-\ncule; multiply the number thus obtained by\nthe given weight, and divide by the molecular\nweight.\nTo Find the Empirical Formula of a Body\nfrom its Percentage Composition.— Divide the\npercentage of each element by the atomic\nweight of that element to three places of\ndecimals, and divide all the numbers thus ob-\ntained by the lowest if the quotients are not\nwhole numbers, reduce them to their simplest\nrelation in whole numbers, and to these whole\nnumbers prefix the symbol to which each re-\nfers.\nTo Find the Weight of a Substance Required\nto Yield, Liberate, or Produce a Given Weight\nof a Substance.— Write the equation express-\ning the chemical change then—\nMolecular weight Quantity Molecular weight Weight\nof resulting sub- of of original sub- oforigi-\nstance x Number resulting stance x Number nal sub-\nof molecules substance of molecules stance\ninvolved given involved required\nTo Solve Problems Involving Volumes of\nGases —Write the equation expressing the\nchemical change, and underneath the gaseous\nproduct write the sign CD for each molecule (if\nthere are more than one), thus:\nMnO\n4HC1\n□a\n7 an\n□a\nDD\nMnCl 2\n126\nCl 2 20H 2\nDD\nDD DD\nFour volumes of hydrochloric acid gas yield 1\nvolume of chlorine and 2 volumes of water\nvapor. Any problem is readily solved by this\nmethod with the aid of simple proportion. The\nfollowing data must be borne in mind.\nAn atomic weight of an element taken in\ngrammes occupies 11*2 liters, at 0° C. and 760\nmm. pressure, but As and P occupy 5 6 liters,\nand Hg occupies 22 4 liters.\nA molecular weight of a compound taken in\ngrammes occupies 22*4 liters, unless the vapor\ndensity of the compound is abnormal.\nOne liter of hydrogen weighs 1 crith =0*0896\ngramme.\nFormula for Correcting the Volume of Gases\nfor Temperature and Pressure.\nV original volume.\nV corrected volume.\nt original temperature C°.\nV final temperature C°.\nP original pressure.\nV final pressure.\nV (273H-t)P\nV 273+t P\nStomach Bitters. See Bitters.\nStones, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nStoppers, to Remove.- 1. My own trials\nin this direction indicate that there is no royal\nroad to get out stoppers. I have tried many\nplans, but have found none more successful\nthan that of tapping the bottle neck lightly\nand repeatedly, first in one place and then di-\nrectly opposite, with the handle of a knife or\nanother stopper. I have seen Prof. Roscoe, at\nOwens College, adopt this plan. He would also\nsometimes hold the neck over a Bunsen burner,\nand then begin knocking again. The nuisance\nis that you now and then decapitate the bottle,\nbut I think all methods are liable to that mis-\nfortune.\nRemoving Stoppei s.— 2. The best way is to\ntake a turn round neck with a stout string,\nhold the bottle firmly on the table with one\nhand, grasp one end of the string with the\nother, and get a friend to pull the other end.\nA little sawing will soon heat the neck suffi-\nciently to expand it and loosen the stopper. I\nhave extricated broken stoppers in this way,\nwith nothing to lift them out by but a little bit\nof sealing wax melted into the broken surface.\nTry rubbing stopper with paraffin wax.— Cor-\nrespondence in English Mechanic.\nStoppers, to Grind.— Glass stoppers can\nbe made to fit tightly by grinding with emery.\nThis operation can be performed either by\nhand or on the lathe.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0557.jp2"},"554":{"fulltext":"Storm.\n542\nSugar.\nStorm Glasses, Liquid for 1. The red\nconsists of alcohol slightly colored with a little\naniline or ^ogwood.\n2. The white is composed of—\nCamphor 2^ drm.\nAlcohol 11 drm.\nWater 9 drm.\nSaltpeter 38 drm.\nSal ammoniac. 38 drm.\nDissolve the camphor in the alcohol and the\nsalts in the water and mix the solutions to-\ngether. Pour in test tubes, cover with wax\nafter corking and make a hole through the\ncork with a red hot needle, or draw out the\ntube until only a pin hole remains.\nIndications of.—l. When the camphor, etc.,\nappears soft and powdery, and almost filling\nthe tube, rain, with S. or S. W. winds may be\nexpected; when crystalline, N.,N. E., or N. W.\nwinds, with fine weather, may be expected;\nwhen a portion crystallizes on one side of the\ntube, wind may be expected from that direc-\ntion. I had one for several years, and could\nf ortell the weather for a day beforehand with\nconsiderable certainty by means of it, even\napart from the barometer.— W. J. Lancaster, in\nEnglish Mechanic.\n2. The foil owing indications are from another\nsource\nFine Weather.— The substance remains en-\ntirely at bottom of tube and the liquid per-\nfectly clear.\nComing Rain.— Substance will rise gradually,\nliquid will be very clear, with a small star in\nmotion.\nA Coming Storm or Very High Wind.— Sub-\nstance partly at top of tube, and be of a leaf-\nlike form, liquid very heavy and in a ferment-\ning state. These effects are noticeable twenty-\nfour hours before the change sets in.\nIn Winter.— Generally the substance lies\nhigher in the tube.\nSnow or White Frost.— Substance very white,\nand small stars in motion.\nSummer Weather.— The substance will lie\nquite low. The substance will lie closer to the\ntnbe on the opposite side to the quarter from\nwhich the storm is coming.\nStoves,to Blacken. See Blacking, Stove.\nStoves, to Prevent Busting.— Kero-\nsene applied with a rag to stoves will keep\nthem from rusting during the snmmer. It is\nalso an excellent material to apply to all iron\nutensils used about a farm.\nStoves, to Mend Cracks, etc.— When\na crack is discovered in a stove, through which\nthe fire or smoke penetrates, the aperture may\nbe completely closed in a moment with a com-\nposition consisting of wood ashes and common\nsalt, made up in paste with a little water, and\nplastered over the crack. The good effect is\nequally certain, whether the stoves, etc., be\ncold or hot.\nStoves, to Polish.— For a stove of medi-\num size, pulverize u piece of alum the size of a\nlarge hickory nut, stir into two tablespoonf uls\nof vinegar, add this to the stove blacking,\nmixed with water in the usual manner. Apply\nthis mixture with a cloth or brush to a cold\nstove, and while wet rub briskly with a dry\nbrush. The polish will appear at once.\nStoves, Varnish for. See Varnishes.\nSt r ass.—\nPure caustic potash 16 parts.\nWhite lead 85 parts.\nBoracic acid 4^ parts.\nArsenious acid part.\nFine white sand 50 parts.\nThese materials are carefully selected, placed\nin a Hessian crucible, and fused in a porcelain\nfurnace for a day and a night, then cooled\nvery gradually. Used to imitate the diamond.\nOther precious stones are imitated by adding\nto the strass the metallic oxides, as in colors\nfor glass.\nStratena Cement. See Cements.\nStraw, to Bleach. See Bleaching.\nStraw, to Dye. See Dyeing.\nStraw, to Give a Luster to.— An ammo-\nniacal solution of bleached lac is employed by\nsome makers.\nStraw Plait.— This is bleached by exposing,\nit to the fumes of burning sulphur in a close\nchest or box, or by immersing it in a weak\nsolution of chloride of lime, and afterward\nwashing it well in water. Water, strongly\nacidulated with oil of vitriol or oxalic acid, is\nalso used for the same purpose. Straw may be\ndyed with any of the simple liquid dyes.\nStrawberry. See Liquors.\nStrawberry Flavoring. See Essences\nand Extracts.\nStrawberry Syrup. See Syrups.\nStrops, Bazor, Pastes for. See Raz-\nors.\nStucco. See Cements, Keene s.\nStumps of Trees, to Destroy.— In the\nfall bore a hole in the center of the stump,\nabout 18 in. deep, and 1 to 1 in. in diameter.\nPut in about 2 oz. saltpeter, and fill the hole\nwith water; plug it up tight. In the spring,\ntake out the plug, pour in 8 or 10 oz. petrole-\num, ignite, and the stump will smolder, but\nnot blaze, to the extremities of the roots, leav-\ning only ashes. Dynamite is also extensively\nused.\nSties. See Eyes, the.\nStyptics, Haemostatics. Substances which\narrest local bleeding. Creosote, tannin or tan-\nnic acid, strong spirit, alum, sulphate of iron,\nand most of the astringent salts and other as-\ntringent substances, belong to this class. The\nfollowing are a few preparations of this kind\nHaemostatic Powder, Styptic Powder.—\n1. Alum (in fine powder) 1 part.\nGall nuts (in fine powder) 1 part.\nGum arabic (in fine powder) 1 part.\nGum benzoin (in fine powder) 1 part.\nMix.\n2. Guibourt.—\nCharcoal (in fine powder). 1 part.\nGum arabic (in fine powder) 1 part.\nKesin (in line powder) 4 parts.\n3. Mialhe.—\nAlum (powdered) 1 part.\nGumtragacanth 1 part.\nTannin (tannic acid) 1 part.\nUsed to stop local bleeding, a little being\nsprinkled or pressed on the part.\nSublimation. The process by which a\nvolatile substance is converted into vapor and\ncondensed into solid form. If a volatile sub-\nstance is converted into a vaporous state and\nthis vapor when condensed forms a solid, the\nprocess is called a sublimation, and the product\nis called a sublimate if, on the other hand, the\ncondensed vapors yield a liquid, the process is\ndistillation (which see), and the product a dis-\ntillate.\nSugar, Grape.- Glucose, Diabetic Sugar,\nStarch Sugar, Sugar of Fruits.— 1. (From dried\nraisins.) Pound them, wash with cold alcohol,\npress, dissolve the cake in. water, and proceed\nas last.\n2. From diabetic urine, by evaporation,\nwashing the mass in cold alcohol, redissolving\nin water, and crystallizing.\n3. (From Starch).— Starch, 100 parts; water,\n400 parts; sulphuric acid, 1 to 10 parts; boil for\nthirty-five or forty hours, adding water to\nmake up for evaporation; then saturate the\nacid with lime or chalk, and evaporate. Under\npressure, the conversion is produced much\nquicker. Product, 105 parts..","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0558.jp2"},"555":{"fulltext":"Sugar.\n543\nSyrups.\n4. (From Woody Fiber).— Shreds of linen or\npaper, 12 parts; strong- sulphuric acid, 17 parts\n(Braconnot); 5 parts acid and 1 part water,\n(Vogel); mix in the cold; in twenty-four hours\ndilate with water, and boil for ten hours; then\nneutralize with chalk, filter, evaporate to a\nsyrup, and set the vessel aside to crystallize.\nProduct, 114^ of the weight of the rags. Saw-\ndust, glue, etc., also yield grape sugar by like\ntreatment.\nSugar, Lemon,- Portable Lemonade,\nSaccharum Limonatum.— Sugar, 4 lb.; tartaric\nacid, 3 oz.; essence of lemons, 34 oz. Used to\nmake lemonade, etc. x\nSugar of Milk. Syn. Saccharum Lactis,\nLactine.— Prep. Evaporate clarified whey till\nit crystallizes, and purify the crystals by diges-\ntion with animal charcoal and repeated crys-\ntallization.\nSulphuret.— Syn. Sulphide, Sulphuretum,\nSulphidum, L.\nSulphuric Acid.— This is made on such\na large scale that directions for preparing\nwould be useless, and pertain more to a book\nof processes. There are, however, a few forms\nof the acid which it will be well to describe.\nSulphuric Acid, Alcoholized (Paris Codex).\nTo 3 parts of alcohol (rectified) add very grad-\nually, 1 part of sulphuric acid. Color by letting\nit stand over a little cochineal.\nSulphuric Acid, Anhydrous. Heat Nord-\nhausen acid to about 100° F., in a glass retort\nconnected with a well cooled receiver, when\nthe anhydrous acid will be formed.\n2. Raise anhydrous sodium bisulphate to a\nlow red heat in an earthen retort, then dis-\ntill.\nSulphuric Acid, Aromatic— Sulphuric acid,\n3% fl. oz.; alcohol, 30 fl. oz.; mix. Add 1}4 oz.\npowdered cinnamon; powdered ginger, 1 oz.;\ndigest for six days and filter.\n2. Sulphuric acid, 3 parts; alcohol, 40 parts;\ncinnamon in powder, 2 parts; ginger in pow-\nder, 1J4 parts; mix the acid gradually with the\nalcohol, add the powders, macerate for seven\ndays and filter.\nNordhausen Acid.— Disulphuric or fuming\nSulph. acid. This acid is prepared by the dis-\ntillation of iron sulphate in earthen retorts;\nused for dissolving indigo.\nSumac, Sumach, Shumac— This consists\nof the leaves, leafstalks and small twigs of\nrhuscotinus, a shrub growing in Sicily, Italy,\nSpain, Portugal and some districts of France.\nIt is sometimes sold whole, sometimes coarsely\nbruised, but most commonly ground to a fine\npowder; a preparation which enables it to be\nsomewhat more readily extracted by cold\nwater, but at the same time disguises the pre-\nsence of impurities.\nSunburn. See Cosmetics.\nSunstroke. Sunstroke is caused by ex-\ncessive heat, and especially if the weather is\nmuggy. It is more apt to occur on the second,\nthird, or fourth of a series of hot days than on\nthe first. Loss of sleep, worry, excitement,\nclose sleeping rooms, debility, abuse of stimu-\nlants, predispose to it. It is more apt to at-\ntack those working in the sun, and especially\nbetween the hours of eleven o clock in the\nmorning and four o clock in the afternoon. On\nhot days wear thin clothing. Have as cool\nsleeping rooms as possible. Avoid loss of\nsleep and all unnecessary fatigue. If working\nindoors and where there is artificial heat (laun-\ndries, etc.), see that the room is well ventilated.\nIf working in the sun, wear a light hat (not\nblack, as it absorbs the heat), straw, etc., and\nput inside of it, on the head, a wet cloth or\na large green leaf; frequently lift the hat from\nthe head and see that the cloth is wet. Do not\ncheck perspiration; but drink what water you\nneed to keep it up, as perspiration prevents the\nbody from being overheated. Hare, whenever\npossible, an additional shade, as a thin umbrella\nwhen walking, a canvas or board cover when\nworking in the sun. If a f eeliug of f atigue,\ndizziness, headache, or exhaustion occurs, cease\nwork immediately, lie down in a shady and cool\nplace, apply cold cloths to and pour cold water\nover head and neck. If any one is overcome by\nthe heat, send immediately for the nearest good\nphysician. While waiting for the physician,\ngive the person cool drinks of water or cold\nblack tea, or cold coffee, if able to swallow. If\nthe skin is hot and dry, sponge with or pour\ncold water over the body and limbs, and apply\nto the head pounded ice wrapped in a towel or\nother cloth. If there is no ice at hand, keep a\ncold cloth on the head and pour cold water on\nit, as well as on the body. If the person is pale,\nvery faint, and pulse feeble, let him inhale am-\nmonia for a few seconds, or give him a tea-\nspoonful of aromatic spirits of ammonia in two\ntablespoonfuls of water with a little sugar.\nSuppositories.— These are combinations\nof medicinal substances with cocoa butter,\nsuet, soap, etc., made into suitable form,\nround, cylindrical or conical, for introduction\ninto the rectum. When made with cocoa butter\nor suet, these should be melted at gentle heat,\nwith sufficient white wax (one twelfth to one\neighth, according to the season of the year) to\ngive suitable consistence, and the medicinal\nsubstance being then thor©ughly incorporated,\nthe whole is poured into suitable moulds to\ncool. With but little ingenuity, moulds, in the\nabsence of metallic ones made for this purpose,\nmay be made from stiff paper, and may be\nsupported while filling and cooling by placing\nthem upright in dry sand; or they can be\nmoulded into suitable form with the fingers.\nA suppository should not ordinarily weigh\nmore than a drachm, and should not exceed in\nsize the point of the little finger. When intro-\nduced into the rectum the suppository melts or\nis dissolved, and the medicinal substance then\ndevelops its effects. This is an excellent form\nfor administering medicine in many cases, and\nis less frequently used than it deserves.\nSwedish Matches. See Matches.\nSympathetic Inks. See Inks.\nSyrups, the Preparation of.— In the pre-\nparation of syrups, which are solutions of sugar,,\nmore or less strong according to the object for\nwhich they are used, care should be taken to\nemploy only the best refined sugar, and either\ndistilled or filtered rain water, as they will be\nrendered much less liable to spontaneous de-\ncomposition and become perf ectly transparent\nwithout the trouble of clarifying. When, how-\never, impure sugar is employed, clarification\nis always necessary. This is best done by dis-\nsolving the sugar in the water or fruit juices\ncold, and then beating up a little of the cold\nsyrup with some white of egg and one or two\nounces of cold water, until the mixture froths\nwell; this must be added to the syrup in the\nboiler, and when the whole is frisked up to a\ngood froth, heat should be applied and the\nscum which forms removed from time to time\nwith a clean skimmer. As soon as the syrup\nbegins to simmer it must be removed from the\nfire and allowed to stand until it has cooled a\nlittle, when it should again be skimmed, if ne-\ncessary, and then passed through a clean flan-\nnel. By using refined sugar, however, all this\ntrouble of clarification can be avoided.\nWhen vegetable infusions or solutions enter\ninto the compositions of syrups, they should\nbe rendered per-fectly transparent by filtration\nor clarification before being added to the sugar.\nThe proper quantity of sugar for syrups will,\nin general, be found to be two pounds avoirdu-\npois to every pint of water or thin aqueous\nfluid. These proportions allow for the water\nthat is lost by evaporation during the process\nand are those best calculated to produce syrup\nof proper consistence and possessing good\nkeeping qualities. They closely correspond to\nthose recommenned by Guibourt for the pro-","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0559.jp2"},"556":{"fulltext":"Syrups. 544\nduction of a perfect syrup, which, he says,\nconsists of 30 parts of sugar to 16 parts of\nwater.\nIn the preparation of syrup it is of great im-\nportance to employ as little heat as possible,\nas a solution of sugar, even when kept at a\ntemperature of boiling water, undergoes slow\ndecomposition. The best plan is to pour the\nwater (cold) over the sugar, and to allow the\ntwo to lie together for a few hours in a covered\nvessel, occasionally stirring, and to apply a\ngentle heat, preferably that of steam or of a\nwater bath, to finish the solution. Syrups are\nsufficiently boiled when some, taken up in a\nspoon, pours out like oil, or a drop cooled on\nthe thumb nail gives a proper thread when\ntouched. When a thin skin appears on blow-\ning the syrup, it is judged to be completely\nsaturated. These rude tests, however, often\nlead to errors, which might be easily prevented\nby employing the proper proportions, or deter-\nmining the specific gravity by immersing in\nthe syrup one of Baume s saccharo meters or\nsyrup gauges, as indicated in the following\ntable\nSugar in Deg.\n100 parts. Sp. Gr. Baume.\n1-000\n5 1-020 3\n10 1-040 6\n15 1-062 8\n20 1.081 11\n25 1-104 13-5\n30 1-128 16-3\n35 1-152 19\n40 1*177 21*6\n45 1-204 24-5\n50 1230 27\n55 1257 29-5\n.60 1-284 32\n67 1.321 35\nA fluid ounce of saturated syrup weighs\n577^ grains a gallon weighs 13^ pounds its\nspecific gravity is 1 319 to 1*321, or 35° Baume\nits boiling point is 220° F., and its density at the\ntemperature of 212° is 1-260 to 1-261, or 30°\nBaume. The syrups prepared with the juices\nof fruits mark about two or three degrees\nmore on Baume scale than the other syrups.\nAccording to Ure, the decimal part of the num-\nber denoting the specific gravity of a syrup\nmultiplied by twenty-six gives very nearly the\nnumber of pounds of sugar it contains per\ngallon.\nThe preservation of syrups, as well as of all\nsaccharine solutions, is best promoted by keep-\ning them in a moderately cool, but not a very\ncold place. Let syrups be kept in vessels well\nclosed, and in a situation where the tempera-\nture never rises above 55° F. They are kept\nbetter in small than in large vessels, as the\nlonger a bottle lasts the more frequently will\nit be opened, and the syrup consequently ex-\nposed to the air. By bottling syrups while boil-\ning hot, and immediately corking down and\ntying the bottles over with a bladder, perfectly\nair-tight, they may be preserved even at a sum-\nmer heat for years, without fermenting or los-\ning their transparency.\nThe candying of syrups may be prevented\n(unless the syrup be over-saturated with sugar)\nby the addition of acetic or citric acid, two or\nthree drm. per gallon. Confectioners add a little\ncream of tartar to the syrup to prevent granu-\nlation. Syrup may be effectually prevented\nfrom fermenting by the addition of a litl e sul-\nphite of potassa or lime also by the use of\nsalicylic acid in small quantities. Fermenting\nsyrups may be immediately restored by expos-\ning the vessel containing them to the tempera-\nture of boiling water. The addition of a little\nspirit is also good, say about ten per cent.\nA solution of sugar prepared by dissolving\ntwo parts of double refined sugar in one of\nwater, and boiling this a little, affords a syrup\nwhich neither ferments nor crystallizes.\nSyrups.\nThe best way to keep fruit syrups from fer-\nmenting is by bottling while hot, into suitable\nbottles or larger vessels, and to prevent access\nof air. This is the principle, and it may be\ncaried out in various ways. For instance, fill\nthe syrup while hot in quart bottles, pre-\nviously warmed, and fill them almost full.\nCover or cork the bottles temporarily until the\nsyrup cools a little and contracts in volume;\nthen, having heated a small quantity of the\nsyrup, refill the bottles, cork them securely,\nand wax them.\nA great variety of syrups are made by the\naddition of proper flavoring ingredients to\nsimple syrup but in other cases, especially\nwhen the juices of fruits are employed, the\nsyrup is not first prepared and then flovored,\nbut the processes go hand-in-hand. In such\ninstances specific instructions will be given.\nIt is always advisable, when fresh fruit can be\nobtained, to use it in preference to the essence.\nOne general recipe, which answers for nearly\nall fresh fruit, is as follows Use nothing but\nthe very best fresh fruit, which must be freed\nfrom stocks, etc., and crushed with a wooden\ninstrument (not metal) when well mashed, let\nit stand in a room of even temperature (about\n68° F.) for 4 days, which will give sufficient\ntime for fermentation to take place press out\nthe juice from the fruit and let it settle in a\ncool cellar for 2 days, after which 5 pounds\nof the clear juice is to be simmered with 9\npounds of loaf sugar while warm, strain\nthrough flannel. The color may be improved\nby a solution of some coloring agent.\nIt is advisable to add to the fresh fruit, be-\nfore setting it for fermentation, about two\npounds of powdered loaf sugar for every hun-\ndred pounds of fruit. When cold, it is ready\nfor bottling. Cleanliness should be strictly ob-\nserved in all the utensils used. When bottling\nfor storing, skim the top of any floating mat-\nter from the syrups in the large pan, and see\nthat no residue at the bottom goes into the\nbottles. Most of the syrups not made of fruit\nmay have a little mucilage of gum arabic ad-\nded, in order to produce a rich froth. The fol-\nlowing recipes comprise syrups made from the\nfruit and also from essences. These may be\nvaried to suit taste and requirements. A va-\nriety of syrups have been brought into use by\nadding the various wines, (?uch as claret, hock,\nsherry, etc., to simple syrup others, by the ad-\ndition of spirits, as milk punch, by adding to\nvanilla cream Jamaica rum and nutmeg. Al-\nmost any syrup may be made by the addition\nof a sufficient quantity of flavoring essence to\nsimple syrup but these artificially prepared\nsyrups are inferior to those made from fresh\nfruits.\nRed Coloring for Soda Water Syrups.— The\nmost convenient is probably tincture of cud-\nbear, as it affords a good, substantial and nat-\nural-looking color, miscible with syrups with-\nout cloudiness. It may be made as follows:\n2 to 4 oz. powdered cudbear, 1 pt. diluted\nalcohol. Exhaust by maceration or displace-\nment. Used alone, the tincture gives a shade\nof red closely imitating the color of raspberries\nor currants. For deeper red, like blackberries,\nthe addition of some caramel is all that is nec-\nessary. The strawberry color is best imitated\nwith tincture of cochineal. Aniline red, owing\nto its cheapness, is often used for coloring\nsyrups, but it produces a glaring, artificial-\nlooking bluish-red, and is liable to the objection\nthat it sometimes contains arsenic.\nTo Make the Syrups Frothy.— To each gal. of\nsyrup add from 2 to 4 oz. of gum arabic, dis-\nsolved in its own weight of water.\nPreparation of Syrups. In discussing at\nsome length the various pharmacopoeial meth-\nods for the preparation of syrups, W. Bern-\nhardt, in a recent contribution to the Dentscn-\nAmerikanische Apotheker Zeitung, comes to\nthe conclusion that with but very few excep-\ntions—where heat would deleteriously affect","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0560.jp2"},"557":{"fulltext":"Syrups.\n545\nSyrups.\nthe product— dissolving 1 the sugar by heat and\nraising to the boiling point is the best. To in-\nsure the best results, the author lays down\nthese rules:\n1. Employ only the best grade of cane sugar,\nfor the lower grades of sugar contain appreci-\nable amounts of glucose which inclines to fer-\nmentation. Follow cLosely the quantities di-\nrected in formula. Concentrated saccharine\nsolutions resist fermentation in a much higher\ndegree than more dilute ones; on the other\nhand, there will be loss from crystallization if\nsyrups, prepared by heat, are stored in a cool\nroom, as is sometimes done.\n2. Use none but absolutely clear vegetable\nextracts, seeing to it that after ebullition the\nsyrup may also be perfectly bright the latter\nobject may be accomplished by the customary\naids, such as the addition of albumen or pure\nfiltering paper pulp before bringing the syrup\nto a boil. This does not apply; of course, to\nnaturally turbid syrup, as, for instance, syrup\nof almonds.\nThe author sets forth that even with most\naromatic syrups the loss of volatile constitu-\nents can be but trifling if the process of boiling\nbe properly conducted the inversion of sac-\ncharose may be left out of consideration, es-\npecially when fruit acids are absent— provided\nthe solution of the sugar be completed at a low\ntemperature, and then rapidly raised to the\nboiling point; albuminous substances are fre-\nquently extracted from the raw material which\nboiling will remove; all fermentative germs\nand fungus spores are effectually destroyed by\nthe heat.\nFinally, to insure perfect preservation, syrups\nshould be filled into small vials (of from two to\neight ounces capacity, according to individual\nneeds) which have been placed into boiling hot\nwater, the vials to be immediately corked and\nsealed. As an extra precaution it is well to lay\nthe filled and corked bottles on their sides,\nwhile yet hot, and to maintain that position. A\nFrench proposition is to fill the bottles to the\nbrim, and, while the contents are still warm, to\nplace on top, so as to come in contact with the\nsyrup, a circular piece of filtering paper. A\nfirm cover of crystallized sugar is thus ob-\ntained, well calculated to exclude all extraneous\nmatter.— Western Druggist.\nAmbrosia Syrup for Soda Water.—\n1. Raspberry syrup 5 pt.\nVanilla syrup 5 pt.\nHock wine 10 oz.\nMix.\n2. Raspberry syrup 2 pt.\nVanilla syrup 2 pt.\nHock wine 4 oz.\n3. Ambrosia Syrup.— A mixture of equal\nparts of vanilla and strawberry syrups.\nApple Syrup.— Proceed with apples as for\npine apple syrups.\nBanana Syrup.—\n1. Oil of banana 2 drm.\nTartaric acid 1 drm.\nSimple syrup 6 pt.\n2. Proceed with bananas as for pine apple\nsyrups.\nBlackberry Syrup. 1. Prepared from ripe\nfruit the same as raspberry syrups. Blackberry\nsyrup is improved by adding 1 oz. best French,\nbrandy to each quart.\n2. Prepare like either strawberry or mul-\nberry syrup.\nTo Bleach Syrups.— Syrups may be bleached\nby agitation with or filtration through animal\ncharcoal.\nCapillaire (Maidenhair) Syrup.—\n1. Maidenhair 8 oz.\nBoiling water 5 pt.\nOrange flower water 4 oz.\nSugar, sufficient.\nInfuse the maidenhair in the boiling water;\nwhen nearly cold, press out, and filter the\nliquid, add too it the orange flower water, and\ndissolve it in sugar, in the proportion of 7 oz.\nto each 4 fl. oz. of liquid.\n2. Nine pounds leaf sugar, 4 lb. orange flower\nwater. Boil till the sugar is dissolved and the\nsyrup is clear; while hot, strain through flan-\nnel; add to the cool syrup 2 drm. of tartaric\nacid, previously dissolved in H oz. of the strong-\nest orange flower water; lastly add 4 oz. of the\nbest Rhine wine.\nCapsicum Syrup.—\nTincture of capsicum 1 oz.\nSimple syrup 2 pt.\nHeat the syrup, add the tincture, and when\nthe alcohol has evaporated, mix immedi-\nately.\nCatawba Syrup.—\n1. Simple syrup 1 pt.\nCatawba wine 1 pt.\n2. Catawba wine 2 qt.\nCitric acid 2 oz.\nSimple syrup 2 gal.\nChampagne Syrup.\n1. Rhine wine 2 pt.\nBrandy 2 oz.\nSherry 1 oz.\nGranulated sugar 3 lb.\nDissolve the sugar without heat.\n2. Rhine wine (Bodenheimer or\nLaubenheimer) 2 qt.\nCognac 4 oz.\nSherry 2 oz.\nGranulated sugar 6 lb.\nDissolve the sugar in the wine without heat.\nSherry Cobbler Syrup.—\nWhite syrup 3 pt.\nSherry 1 qt.\nAdd 1 lemon, cut in thin slices. Macerate for\ntwelve hours and strain.\nCherry Syrup.— Take sour cherries, a con-\nvenient quantity, bruise them in a porcelain,\nstone or wood mortar, to break the stones or\npits of the fruit; express the juice, set it aside\nfor three days to undergo fermentation, and\nproceed according to the directions given for\nstrawberry syrup.\nWild Cherry Syrup.—\nWild cherry bark (in coarse pow-\nder) 5 oz.\nMoisten the bark with water, and let it stand\nfor twenty -four hours in a close vessel. Then\npack it firmly in a percolator, and pour water\nupon it until 1 pt. of water is obtained.\nTo this add—\nSugar 28 oz.\nChocolate Syrup.\n1. Best chocolate 8 oz.\nWater 2 pt.\nWhite sugar 4 lb.\nMix the chocolate in water, and stir thor-\noughly over a slow fire. Strain, and add the\nsugar.\n2. Bark of roasted cacao bean 2 oz.\nReduce to a moderately fine powder, mix\nwith—\nSimple syrup 2 oz.\nPack in a percolator, and exhaust with the\nfollowing menstruum at a boiling tempera-\nture\nSugar 12 oz.\nWater 8 oz.\nSo as to obtain 1 pt. of syrup. To the perco-\nlate add, when cold\nExtract of vanilla 2 fl. drm.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0561.jp2"},"558":{"fulltext":"Syrups.\nCinnamon Syrup.—\nOil of cinnamon 30 min.\nCarbonate of magnesia 60 grn.\nWater 2 pt.\nSugar, granulated 56 oz.\nRub the oil first with the carbonate of mag-\nnesia, then with the water gradually added,\nand filter through paper. In the filtrate dis-\nsolve the sugar without heat.\nCoffee Cream Syrup.—\nCoffee syrup 2 pt.\nCream 1 pt.\nCoffee Syrup.\n1. Coffee, roasted lb.\nBoiling water 1 gal.\nEnough is filtered to make gal. of the in-\nfusion to which add—\nGranulated sugar 7 lb.\n2. Ground Java coffee 2 oz.\nSimple syrup 2 fl. oz.\nMix and pack in a percolator, and add, boil-\ning hot, a mixture of\nLoaf sugar .12 oz. av.\nDistilled water 8 fl. oz.\nTo percolate 1 pt. of syrup.\n3. Take of—\nGround, roasted coffee 4 oz.\nBoiling water 2 pt.\nSugar (com.) 4 lb.\nInfuse the coffee in the water until cold,\nstrain, add the sugar, and make a syrup.\nCream Syrup.\n1. Fresh cream pt.\nFresh milk y pt.\nPowdered sugar 1 lb.\nMix by shaking, and keep in a cool place. The\naddition of a few grains of bicarbonate of soda\nwill for some time retard souring.\n2. Oil of sweet almonds 2 oz.\nPowdered gum arabic. 2 oz.\nWater 4 oz.\nMake an emulsion, and add simple syrup\nenough to complete 2 pt.\n3. One pt. condensed milk, 1 pt. water, 1*4 lb.\nsugar. Heat to boiling and strain. This will\nkeep for over a week in a cool place.\n4. Imitation.— Make an emulsion with 3 oz.\nfresh oil of sweet almonds, 2 oz, powdered gum\narabic, and 2 oz. water; then dissolve 1 lb.\nwhite sugar by gentle heat, strain, and when\ncool, add the whites of 2 eggs. It should be put\nup in small bottles, well corked, in a cool place.\nThig is not only an excellent imitation and\nsubstitute for cream syrup, but will keep for\na considerable time.\nCurrant Syrup.— 1. Refined sugar, 5 k.; con-\nserve of currents, 2 6 1. Put the sugar in a pan,\nadd the conserve, and heat i^apidly. Remove\nthe syrup from the fire as soon as it boils.\nSkim, and pass through woolen cloth.\n2. Six pt. simple syrup, 2 pt. water, 2 oz. tar-\ntaric acid, 3 drm fruit essence. Mix; color\nwith liquid carmine for red currants, and with\nburnt sugar for black.\n3. One pt. red currant juice, 1 gal. simple\nsyrup.\n4. Proceed as for strawberry syrup.\nFramboise Currant Syrup.—\nRaspberry syrup 1 pt.\nCurrant syrup 4 pt.\nExcelsior Syrup.\nSimple syrup 1 pt.\nSyrup of wild cherry bark 4 oz.\nPort wine 4 oz.\nFancy Syi*up.\nVanilla syrup 2 pt.\nPineapple syrup 8 oz.\nRaspberry syrup 8 oz.\n546 Syraps.\nSyrup of Figs.— Laxative.\nSenna leaves 2 tr. oz.\nBuckthorn bark 128 grn.\nJalap 384 grn.\nRhubarb 256 grn.\nCinnamon 30 grn.\nCloves 30 grn.\nNutmeg 15 grn.\nOil peppermint 20 min.\nSugar 12 tr. oz.\nDiluted alcohol, enough for 16 fl. oz.\nReduce the drugs to a moderately fine (No.\n50) powder, add to it the oil of peppermint and\npercolate it, in the usual manner, with diluted\nalcohol. Remove the first 8 fl. oz. of the perco-\nlate and dissolve in this the sugar, with the aid\nof a gentle heat, if necessary, but avoiding loss\nof alcohol by evaporation. Allow the solution\nto cool, collect a further portion of percolate\nand add it to the syrup, so as to make 16 fl. oz.\nFruit Syrups.— These may be prepared either\nby combining the juice expressed from the fruit\nwith sugar, or the uninjured berries are mixed\nwith the sugar, when the later will extract the\njuice, leaving the berries shriveled and taste-\nless. Among the fruit syrups discussed by Mr.\nVogeler, syrup of raspberries is the most im-\nportant. He quotes the following diffierent\nmethods of preparation\n1. Contuse the berries, put them into a suit-\nable vessel or vat, add 2% of sugar, and allow\nthem to ferment at a temperature of 70-80° F.\nfrom 3 to 4 days, until the pectin has separated,\nand no more signs of fermentation are notice-\nable. Express, let the juice settle for a few\ndays in a cool place, decant and filter. Preserve\nthe juice by Appert s process (introducing the\njuice into stout bottles, not quite filling them,\ncorking, setting them into a vessel full of cold\nwater, with straw packed between them, so that\nthe water reaches up to the shoulder, and slowly\nheating the water to boiling; then securing the\ncork with wax), or convert it into a syrup by\ndissolving 9 parts of sugar in 5 of the juice,\nand heating to boiling.\n2. A better way is to add at once to the fresh-\nly bruised fruit 5 to 6% of alcohol, then proceed\nas in No. 1.\n3. Crush the berries in a glass vessel with a\nwooden pestle, add 5 to 10$ of cane or grape\nsugar, and allow to stand, stirring occasionally.\nWhen fermentation is completed the juice be-\ncomes clear. Filter and bottle.\n4^ Put 4 lb. of the berries into a china bowl\nwith 1 qt. of water containing 2}4 oz. of citric\nacid in solution. Let remain twenty-four\nhours. Strain, taking care not to bruise the\nfruit. To one pint of the clear liquid add V4\nlb. of sugar, and stir until it is dissolved.\n5. Proceed as in No. 1. When the fermenta-\ntion is nearly over, express the juice and add\nto each lb. of it one fl. oz. of deodorized alcohol.\nSet it aside for one night, filter and bottle, or\nconvert into syrup.\n6. Macerate the berries interspersed with\nlayers of sugar, lb. to 1 lb. of berries, for\ntwenty-four hours in a cool cellar, and drain\noff the juice. Preserve by Appert s process\n7. Add to the foregoing product some alcohol\nor a little bisulphite of lime.\n8. Pure fruit juice 16 oz.\nDilute acetic acid 1 fl. oz.\nWater 7 fl. oz.\nGranulated sugar 3 lb.\nDissolve without heat. The acetic acid is\nconsidered by the author as objectionable.\nTests for Determining the Purity of Syrup of\nRaspberries.— Mix equal volumes of the syrup\nand of 10$ ammonia; the color of the genuine\nsyrup changes to a violet with a light tinge of\ngreen. If however, the color changes instant-\nly, or soon, to green or yellow, some foreign\nvegetable coloring matter is present. If it be-\ncomes colorless, or nearly so, it is sophisticated\nwith rosaniline. The latter (or f uchsine) may\nalso be detected by macerating in the syrup","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0562.jp2"},"559":{"fulltext":"Syrups.\n547\nSyrups.\nsome white wool or silk, and rinsing this after-\nward with water. Water removes the rasp-\nberry stain, but not the aniline color. If the\nfabrics are dipped into ammonia, the aniline\ndye will vanish, but will reappear on being-\nmoistened with acetic acid.\nGinger Syrup.— 1. Take of tincture ginger, 4\noz. white sugar, 7 lb. (com.) water? gal.\nHeat the sugar and water until the sugar is dis-\nsolved, raise to the boiling point, then gradu-\nally add the tincture ginger, stirring briskly\nafter each addition.\n2. Six pt. simple syrup, 2pt. water, 1 oz. tar-\ntaric acid, 2 oz. ginger. Burnt sugar to color.\n.3. Four oz. extract of Jamaica ginger, 1\ngal. syrup. Shake well. A few drops of tinc-\nture curcuma to color.\n4. Nine lb. loaf sugar, 5 lb. water, 12 oz. es-\nsence ginger, 4 oz. Rhine wine. Boil sugar and\nwater until dissolved and clear when cool, add\nginger and wine. Mix well and let settle.\nGrape Syrup.— 1. Half pt. brandy, 1 oz. tinc-\nture of lemon, 1 gal. simple syrup, tincture\nred sanders, 1 qt.\n2. Brandy pt.\nSpirits of lemon 34 oz.\nTincture of red sanders 2 oz.\nSimple syrup 1 gal.\n3. A grape syrup, not an artificial syrup, or\none for fountain use, but a syrup from the\nfruit, for domestic or table use, etc. Take 20\nlb. ripe freshly picked and selected tame\ngrapes, put them into a stone jar, and pour\nover them 6 qt. of boiling; soft water when\nsufficiently cool to allow it, well squeeze them\nthoroughly with the hand, after which allow\nthem to stand 3 days on the furnace with a\ncloth thrown over the jar, then squeeze out\nthe juice and add 10 lb. of crushed sugar let it\nremain a week longer in the jar then take off\nthe scum, strain and bottle, leaving a vent until\ndone fermenting, when strain again and bottle\ntight, and lay the bottles on the side in a cool\nplace.\nHock and Claret Syrup.—\nHock or claret wine 1 pt.\nSimple syrup .2 pt.\nImperial Syrup. Equal parts of raspbenry\nand orange syrups.\nLemon.— 1. Dissolve 6 drm. of tartaric acid\nand 1 oz. of gum arabic, in pieces, in 1 gal. of\nsimple syrup then flavor with \\Y 2 fl. drm. of\nbest oil of lemon or, flavor with the saturated\ntincture of the peel in cologne spirits.\n2. Grate off the yellow rinds of lemons, and\nbeat it up with a sufficient quantity of granu-\nlated sugar; express the lemon juice; add to\neach pt. of juice 1 pt. of water, 3% lb. granu-\nlated sugar, including that rubbed up with the\nrind; warm until the sugar is dissolved, and\nstrain. Under no circumstances must the\nsyrup be allowed to boil, .and the less heat that\ncan be used to effect the complete solution of\nthe sugar the better will be the syrup.\n3. Add to 1 gal. simple syrup, when cold, 20\ndrops fresh oil lemon and J^ oz. citric acid, pre-\nviously dissolved in 3 oz. water mix by shak-\ning well in a bottle add 4 oz. gum solution,\nmade by dissolving 2 oz. of fine white gum\narabic in 2 oz. warm water.\n4. Six pt. simple syrup, 2 pt. distilled water,\n2 oz. essence lemon, 2 oz. citric acid, dissolved\nin boiling water. Mix, and, if required, color\nwith saffron.\n5. Simple syrup. 1 gal.\nOil of lemon 25 drops.\nCitric acid 10 drm.\nRub the oil of lemon with the acid, add a\nsmall portion of syrup, and mix.\nFruit Syrup for Lemonade.— Raspberries, 1,000\ngrm.; blackberries, 500 grm.; bilberries, 500\ngrm.; lemon, 3 fruits. Mash tn a stone mortar,\nand add of cold water, 1,500 grm. Let stand\nfor three days, or until fermentation has fin-\nished. Express and filter. In every 2,500 grm.\ndissolve citric acid, 40 grm., and sugar, 4,500\ngrm. Boil up once in a copper kettle.— Handb.\nde Pharm.\nLicorice Syrup.— To 45 parts water add iy 2\nparts licorice root, cut in pieces. Boil for fif-\nteen minutes. Pour the liquid off and evapo\nrate to 26 parts. Add 30 parts white sugar and\n30 parts purified honey. Boil up once.\nManna Syrup.— 1. Four parts white sugar, 1\npart picked manna. Dissolve in boiling water,\nand let it boil up.\n2. Twelve parts mulberries not quite ripe, 12\nparts granulated sugar. Boil, stirring con-\nstantly, until the juice shows 30° Baume.\nStrain.\nMaple Syrup.—\n1. Maple sugar 4 lb.\nWater 2 pt.\n2. Three and one-half lb. maple sugar, 1 qt.\nwater. Dissolve, and, if desired, add a small\nproportion of gum solution to produce a rich\nfroth.\n3. Maple Syrup for Soda Water.—\nMaple sugar 10 lb.\nWater 5 pt.\nMilk Punch Syrup.—\n1. Simple syrup 1 pt.\nBrandy 8 oz.\nJamaica rum 8 oz.\nCream 1 pt.\n2. To 1 pt. heavy syrup add y% pt. each of\nbrandy and Jamaica rum; flavor with two tea-\nspoonfuls of an extract pre pared by macerating\n2 oz. of ground nutmegs in 8 oz. of alcohol. The\nsyrup is first to be poured into the glass in the\nproper quantity and ordinary cream syrup\nadded before drawing the soda water\nSyrup of Mulberry.\n1. Mulberry juice 1 pt.\nSugar 2 lb.\nRectified alcohol 2)4 A- oz.\nHeat the juice to the boiling point and when\nit has cooled filter it. Dissolve the sugar in the\nfiltered liquid with a gentle heat and add the\nspirit.\n2. Mulberries, not entirely ripe 6 lb.\nSugar, coarsely powdered 6 lb.\nPlace in a kettle over the fire and boil, con-\nstantly stirring, until the boiling syrup marks\n30° B. Throw on a strainer and allow the mare\nto drain thoroughly.\n3. Made from the fruit the same as straw-\nberry, and acidulated slightly with a solution\nof citric acid. It may also be made from the\nfruit essence in the same manner as for straw-\nberry, using about half the quantity of tar-\ntaric acid.\nNectar Syrup.— 1. Take of vanilla syrup, 5 pt.;\npineapple syrup, 1 pt.; strawberry or rasp-\nberry syrup, 2 pt. Mix.\n2. One oz. extract vanilla 1 oz. extract\nrose 1 oz, extract lemon 1 oz. extract\nbitter almonds. Mix and add 1 gal. simple\nsyrup; color pink with cochineal.\n3. Mix 3 parts vanilla syrup with 1 part each\nof pineapple and lemon syrups.\nOrange Flower Syrup.—\n1. Orange flower water 1 pt.\nGranulated sugar 28 oz.\nDissolve without heat.\n2. Oil of orange 30 drops.\nTartaric acid 4 drm.\nSimple syrup 1 gal.\nRub the oil with the acid, and mix.\n3. These may be made from the fresh fruit or\nfrom the essence in a similar manner as for\nlemon syrups. Orange syrups may be colored\nslightly with tincture of saffron«or of turmeric.\nSyrup Orange Peel, Fresh.—\nFresh orange peel 2 oz.\nAlcohol 2 oz.\nAqua pura, q. s. to percolate 9 oz.\nSugar 14 oz.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0563.jp2"},"560":{"fulltext":"Syrups.\n548\nSyrups.\nCut the peel in small pieces; put in mortar\nand add the alcohol; thoroughly bruise to a\npulp; put in a glass percolator; add the aqua\npura until 9 ounces have percolated: put the\nsugar in percolator, and percolate the men-\nstruum through the sugar until dissolved.\nPharmacist.\nOrgeat Syrup.\n1. Cream syrup pt.\nSimple syrup y% pt.\nVanilla syrup 1 pt.\nOil bitter almonds 5 drops.\n2. Beat to an emulsion in a mortar 8 oz.\nblanched sweet almonds and 4 oz. bitter ones,\nadding a little water; when smooth add 3 pts.\nwater; mix and strain; dissolve in this without\nheat 6 lb. sifted white sugar and 4 oz. fresh\norange flower water.\nAn excellent imitation of orgeat syrup is\nmade by flavoring cream syrup, made with eggs\nand milk, with a few drops of oil of bitter\nalmonds.\n3. Sweet almonds ...8 oz.\nBitter almonds 2)4 oz.\nSugar 3 lb.\nWater 26 oz.\nOrange flower water 4 oz.\nBlanch the almonds, rub them in a morter to\na fine paste with 12 oz. of the sugar and 2 oz. of\nthe water. Mix the paste with the remainder\nof the water, strain with strong expression,\nadd the remainder of the sugar and dissolve it\nwith the aid of a gentle heat. Lastly, add the\norange flower water, and strain the syrup\nagain.\n4. Cream syrup *4 Pt.\nVanilla syrup 1 pt.\nSimple syrup y% pt.\nOil bitter almonds 5 drops.\nPeach Syrup.— Proceed in the same manner\nas for strawberry syrup.\nPear Syrup.— Proceed with it same as pine-\napple syrups.\nPineapple Syrup.— 1. Proceed as for raspberry,\nbut the hard nature of this fruit requires\npounding with a heavy billet of wood (not\nmetal) in a tub with a strong bottom; when\nwell mashed it will require great pressure\nto extract all the juice from this fruit; a cider\npress will answer the purpose; add 14 lb. of\nsugar to a gallon of juice and a little pure acetic\nacid; put it on a slow fire and stir until the\nsugar dissolves when cold, bottle and tie\ndown.\n2. Use pineapples of good flavor, cut or chop\nthem up, and set aside from twenty-four to\nthirty-six hours; press and proceed as directed\nfor strawberry syrup.\n3. Take a convenient number of the fruit;\npare and mash them in a marble or porcelain\nmortar, with a small quantity of sugar; ex-\npress the juice; for each quart of juice take 1)4\npt. of water and 6 lb. of sugar boil the sugar\nand water, and add the juice; remove from the\nfire; skim and strain.\n4. Oil of pineapple 1 drm.\nTartaric acid. 1 drm.\nSimple syrup 6 pt.\nRaspberry Syrup, Artificial.\n1. Orris root (best) 1 oz.\nCochineal 2 drm.\nTartaric acid 2 drm.\nWater 2 pt.\nPowder the orris root coarsely together with\nthe cochineal; infuse in the water with the\nacid for twenty-four hours; strain, add 4 lb. of\nsugar, raise to the boiling point and strain\nagain.\n2. Six pt. simple syrup, 2 pt. water, 2 oz. tar-\ntaric acid, 2 oz. essence raspberry. Coloring\nsufficient. Coloring for raspberry, blackberry,\netc., syrups may be made by boiling 1 oz.\ncochineal with y% teaspoonf ul cream of tartar\nfilter.\n3. Take any quantity of fully ripe fruit; free\nthem from stalks; place them in a tub and\ncrush them with a wooden spatula; after they\nhave been mashed, let them remain for three\nor four hours, and strain the crushed berries\nthrough a strong flannel bag, or strainer, into\na suitable vessel. Dissolve oz. citric acid in\n3 oz. water, and add this quantity to each gal-\nlon of juice; mix 14 lb. broken sugar to every\ngallon of juice; put on a slow fire and stir until\nall the sugar is dissolved (not boil); takeoff the\nfire, and when cold, bottle and cork for future\nuse. If too thick when cold, it may be\nbrought to a proper consistency by the addi-\ntion of water.\n4. Take fresh berries and inclose them in a\ncoarse bag; press out the juice, and to each\nquart add 6 lb. white sugar and 1 pt. of water\ndissolve, raising it to the boiling point strain\nbottle and cork hot, and keep in a cool place.\nRaspberry syrup is improved by adding 1 part\nof currants to 4 parts of raspberries.\n5. Five quarts raspberries, 12 lb. white sugar,\n1 pt. water. Sprinkle some of the sugar over\nthe fruit in layers, allowing the whole to stand\nfor several hours express the juice and strain,\nwashing out the pulp with the water add the\nremainder of the sugar and water bring the\nfluid to the boiling point, and then strain. This-\nwill keep for a long time.\n6. Imitation.— Three oz. bruised orris root, 2\noz. acetic acid, 1 oz. acetic ether, 1 pt. of alco-\nhol. Cochineal to color. Mix and allow to stand\na few days; filter and use to flavor simple sjrrup.\nRose Syrup.— One gal. simple syrup, 1 oz. es-\nsence rose. Color pink with prepared cochineal\nand acidulate lightly with a solution of citric\nacid.\nSarsaparilla Syrup. 1. One gallon simple\nsyrup, 2 oz. essence sarsaparilla. Color with\ncaramel.\n2. One gallon simple syrup, essence sarsapa-\nrilla, q. s., 1 oz. powdered extract licorice, 15\ndrops oil of sassafras, 15 drops oil of winter-\ngreen, 10 drops oil of anise seed. Stir the oils\nwith the powdered licorice add a portion of\nthe syrup; stir smoothly, and mix the whole\ntogether by agitation.\n3. Oil of wintergreen 10 drops.\nOil of anise 10 drops.\nOil of sassafras 10 drops.\nPluid ext. of sarsaparilla 2 oz.\nSimple syrup 5 pt.\nPowdered ext. of licorice J^ oz.\n4. Parrish s.\nSimple syrup 4 pt.\nComp. syrup sarsaparilla 4 fl. oz.\nCaramel 1% oz.\nOil of wintergreen 6 drops.\nOil of sassafras 6 drops.\nSherbet Syrup.—\nVanilla syrup 3 pt.\nPineapple syrup 1 pt.\nLemon syrup 1 pt.\nSherry Cobbler Syrup.— To 1 pt. good sherry\nadd an equal measure of heavy simple syrup\nand one lemon cut in very thin slices. Allow\nthe syrup to stand a few hours; strain through\na sieve, and bottle for use.\nSimple Syrup. Take of\nWhite sugar (com.) 14 lb.\nWater 1 gal.\nDissolve with the aid of a gentle heat, strain,,\nand when cold add the whites of two eggs, pre-\nviously rubbed with a portion of the syrup,\nand mix thoroughly by agitation. (The egg al-\nbumen is added to produce froth.)\nSolferino Syrup.—\nBrandy 1 pt.\nSimple syrup 2 pt.\nSyrup of Strawberry.— 1. Put 2 parts of straw-\nberries deprived of the calyx without crush-\ning them, into a large mouthed jar; add to\nthem 23^ parts of sugar, and frequently shake*","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0564.jp2"},"561":{"fulltext":"Syrups.\n549.\nTanning.\nkeeping the vessel in a cool place. The sugar\nabsorbs the juice, leaving the fruit shriveled\nand tasteless, the latter being removed by\nmeans of a strainer without pressure. Mix the\nclear syrup with 20^ of alcohol. (Source some\nGerman journal.) I have made syrups of straw-\nberry and of pineapple in this way for soda\nwater, not adding any alcohol, but I bottled it\nas soon as made. These syrups were excellent,\nand I have kept some of them for three years\nwithout change, only that a slight sediment\nwould form, which was easily separated. But\nthis syrup will spoil as soon as exposed to the\nair, except when kept on ice. The above addi-\ntion of alcohol overcomes this defect.\n2. Proceed as for raspberry syrup 4; but the\nfruit, being more stubborn, will require a good\nbeating with the spatula to mash them; when\nthey have stood three or four hours, strain and\npress the juice out by squeezing the strainer\nbetween the hands; add to the iuice the same\nquantity of citric acid; dissolve in each gal. 14\nId. of loaf sugar; simply warm the juice suffi-\nciently to dissolve the sugar; take from the fire,\nand when cold, bottle and cork till required.\n3. Take of—\nFresh ripe strawberrries 10 qt.\nWhite sugar 24 lb.\nWater 34 gal.\nSpread a portion of the sugar over the fruit,\nin layers, let it stand four or five hours, ex-\npress the juice, strain, washing out the marc\nwith water; add remainder of sugar and water,\nraiso to the boiling point and strain.\n4. Use strawberries of a good flavor; do not\nforget that if the berries possess no flavor, you\ncannot expect to obtain a syrup of fine flavor.\nAvoid also rotten berries, because unless you\ndo, you may be sure to And as flavor the smell\nof the rotten berries in your syrup. Mash the\nfruit in a barrel or other suitable vessel, by\nmeans of a pounder, and leave the pulp for\ntwelve or twenty-four hours at a temperature\nbetween 70° and 80°; stir occasionally, press,\nset the juice aside for one night, add for every\npound avoirdupois of juice 1 oz. avoirdupois of\ncologne spirit or deodorized alcohol; mix, set\naside for another night and filter through\npaper.\nFor 1 lb. of the filtered juice take iy 2 lb. of\nsugar and heat to the boiling point, taking\ncare to remove from the fire or turn off the\nsteam as soon as the mixture begins to boil;\nremove the scum and bottle in perfectly clean\nbottles, rinsed with a little cologne spirit.\nThis syrup, as well as those made by the same\nprocess, is strong enough to be mixed with two\nor three times its weight of simple syrup for\nthe soda fountain.\nSyrup of Tolu.—\nTincture of tolu ....40 grm.\nPowdered gum arabic 40 grm.\nSimple syrup 920* grm.\nMake a thick mucilage with the gum and a\nlittle of the syrup, and incorporate therewith\nthe tincture; then add the rest of the syrup\ngradually. The gum serves both to suspend\nthe resin in the form of an emulsion and to\nprevent the syrup from being too thin.\nVanilla Syrup.—\n1. White syrup 2 gal.\nCitric acid 1 oz.\nExtract vanilla 2 fl. oz.\nThe acid should be dissolved in n small quan-\ntity of the syrup before adding to the other\ningredients.\n2. Fluid extract of vanilla 1 oz.\nSimple syrup 3 pt.\nCream (or condensed milk) 1 pt.\nMay be colored with carmine.\n3. Simple syrup 1 gal.\nExtract vanilla 1 oz.\nCitric acid oz.\nStir the acid with a portion of the syrup;\nadd the extract of vanilla; mix.\n4. Simple syrup, 4 pt.; extract of vanilla 2\noz.\nViolet Syrup.— 1. Refined sugar, 5 k.; fresh\nviolets, tops of the flowers only, 0-525 k.; water,\n2,600 1. Bruise the violets ia a mortar; put in a\nwater bath with 1*5 1. water at 60° C. Agitate\nfor some minutes and press out the flowers.\nPut them back in the water bath; add the rest\nof the boiling water; infuse for twelve hours\nallow it to settle; add the sugar, and dissolve\nby heat.\n2. Pick 1 lb. of fresh gathered violet petals,\nand put them in a jar having a tight fitting\ncover. Boil 3 lb. of distilled water;, pour it\nboiling over the violets, and let them steep for\ntwelve hours, keeping the jar closed. Strain\nthe whole through a broth napkin, previously\nrinsed in boiling water, and then dried. Let\nthe infusion rest, and pour it off carefully into\na sugar boiler, so that the sediment may not be\nmixed; add 5 lb. of loaf sugar, broken in pieces,\nand boil until the syrup registers 30° on the\nsaccharometer. When cold, bottle the syrup,\nand keep in a cool place. To obtain tnis syrup\nof a pleasing color, none but silver or untinned\ncopper stewpans should be used.\nWintergreen Syrup.\nOil of wintergreen 25 drops.\nSimple syrup 5 pt.\nBurnt sugar (to color) q. s.\nTables, Varnisli for. See Varnislies.\nTallow Candles. See Candles.\nTan. See Cosmetics.\nTannin or Tannic Acid. —The active\nconstituent of gallnuts, sumac, and the other\nastringents, is, when pure, a colorless, inodorous\nbody, soluble in water, alcohol, and in ether,\nwhich dissolves one-tenth part of its weight.\nIt possesses in a high degree that peculiar taste\nknown as astringent, but is quite free from\nbitterness. Tannin is found in a great variety\nof vegetable matters, very few woods and\nbarks being entirely free from it.\nTanning-. See also Mats, Leather,\nSkins.— Additional information on tanning is\ngiven in the Appendix.— To tan or taw skins\nwith the hair on for rugs and other uses, first\nthoroughly wash the skin and remove all fleshy\nmatter from the inner surface, then clean the\nhair or wool with warm water and soft soap,\nand rinse well. Take 34 lb. each common salt\nand ground alum and y oz. borax, dissolve in.\nhot water and add sufficient rye meal to make\na thick paste, which spread on the flesh side of\nthe skin. Fold it lengthwise, the flesh side in,\nthe skin being quite moist, and let it remain\nfor ten days or two weeks in an airy and shady\nplace, then shake out and remove the paste\nfrom the surface and wash and dry. For a\nheavy skin a second similar application of the\nsalt and alum may be made. Afterward pull\nand stretch the skin with the hands or over a\nbeam, and work on the flesh side with a blunt\nknife.\nFur Skins (any kind), to Tan. —After cutting\noff the useless parts and softening the skins by\nsoaking in warm water, take away the fatty\npart from the inside, after which soak the skins\nin tepid water for two hours. Mix equal parts\nof borax, saltpeter, and Glauber salts (sulphate\nof soda) in the proportion of about oz. of\neach for each skin, with water q. s. to make a\nthin paste. Spread with a brush over the inside\nof the skin, applying more on the thicker parts\nthan on the thinner. Double the skin together,\nflesh side inward, and place in a cool place.\nAfter standing twenty -four hours, wash the\nskin clean, and apply the following mixture in\nthe same manner as before 1 oz. sal soda,\noz. borax, 2 oz. hard Avhite soap, melted slow-\nly together without being allowed to boil; fold\ntogether again and put in a warm place twenty-\nfour hours. After this dissolve 3 oz. alum, 7","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0565.jp2"},"562":{"fulltext":"Tanning.\noz. salt, \\y% oz. saleratus in sufficient hot rain\nwater to saturate the skin; when cool enough\nnot to scald the hands, soak the skin in it for\ntwelve hours; wring out and hang it up to dry.\nWhen dry, repeat the soaking and drying two\nor three times till the skin is sufficiently soft.\nLastly, smooth the inside with fine sandpaper\nand pumice stone.\nSkins, to Tan with the Hair On.— 1. Stretch\nthe skin tightly and smoothly upon a board,\nhair side down, and tack it by the edges to its\nplace. Scrape off the loose flesh and fat with a\nblunt knife, and work in chalk freely, with\nplenty of hard rubbing. When the chalk be-\ngins to powder and fall off, remove the skin\nfrom the board, rub in plenty of powdered\nalum, wrap up closely, and keep it in a dry\nplace for a few days. By this means it will be\nmade pliable, and will retain the hair.\n2. Softwater 10 gal.\nWheat bran y%, bushel\nSalt 7 lb.\nSulphuric acid 2% lb.\nDissolve altogether and place the skins in the\nsolution, and allow them to remain 12 hours\nthen remove and clean them well, and again\nimmerse 12 hours,or longer if necessary, The\nskins may then be taken out, well washed, and\ndried. They can be beaten soft if desired.\n3. Saltpeter 2 parts.\nAlum 1 part.\nMix. Sprinkle uniformly on the fles*h side,\nroll up, and lay in a cool place. Spread it out\nto dry, scrape off the fat and rub till pliable.\nBarko meters.— Guiseppe Tagliabue, of New\nYork, whose large experience entitles him to\nrank as an authority on the subject, writes:\nBarkometers, as at present made, are based\nupon Baume s hydrometer scale, the differ-\nence being solely that on the barkometer one\ndegree is but one-tenth of one degree Baume\nthus to 60 barkometer scale is to 6 Baume.\nThe discrepancy consists in the numerous in-\nstruments in the market which are made, price\nbeing the only consideration, accuracy and\nconsequence being sacrificed. Let it be stipu-\nlated that the barkometer scale be Baume,\ngraduated as previously stated, viz.: One-tenth\nof one degree Baume being one degree bar-\nkometer scale, and the Baume standard being\nthat adopted by the Manufacturing Chemists\nAssociation of the United States, specific grav-\nity 1,835 equaling 66 Baume; there»will then be\nno discrepancy in the instruments.\nSome tanners use Twaddell s hydrometer; the\nscale of this is converted into specific gravity\nby multiplying by five and adding 1*000. Thus\nTwaddell s\n20x5+1*000= specific gravity, 1*100.\nIn taking hydrometer readings, the correct\nmanner is to read the instrument at the level\nof the liquid immediately below the upper con-\ncave surface formed by the affinity of the\nliquid for glass, etc. This, in testing opaque\nliquids, cannot be done; so an allowance or de-\nduction must be made from the apparent indi-\ncation caused by the liquid ascending the stem\nof the barkometer. Practice will soon accus-\ntom the operator to what allowance should be\nmade for this error in reading. Temperature\nmust of course be accurately observed when\nusing the barkometer, the same as in the use of\nany hydrometer, but as these are very sensi-\ntive instruments, being graduated to the tenth\nof one degree Baume, the effect of temper-\nature is very apparent. This solution to the\nquestion of the barkometer standard, I think,\nis far preferable to that proposed of taking a\nnumber and adopting the mean of the major-\nity, as in this latter case one of those selected\nbeing erroneous, the standard would be in\nerror. In this case there would be no scien-\ntific base upon which the standard was based.\nBy adopting Baume as standard, it rests with\nthe manufacturer of the instruments to give\n550 Tattooing:*\nproper care to insure uniformity of indica-\ntions.— Shoe and Leather Reporter.\nBuckskins, to Tan.— Take a skin, either green\nor well soaked, and flesh it with a dull knife;\nspread the skin on a smooth log and grain it by\nscraping with a sharp instrument; rub nearly\ndry over the oval end of a board held upright.\nTake the brains of a deer or a calf, dry by the\nfire gently, put them into a cloth and boil un-\ntil soft, cool off the liquid until blood warm,\nwith water sufficient to soak the skin in, and\nsoak until quite soft and pliable, and then\nwring out as dry as possible; wash in strong\nsoap suds and rub dry and smoke well with\nwood smoke. Instead of brains, oil or lard\nmay be used, and the skin soaked therein six\nhours. This is called Indian tan.\nTan Shoes, Dressing for. See Shoes.,\nTan, Dressing for.\nSaturating Tapes (Madsen).— Stockholm\npitch, 8 parts; wax, 2 parts; tallow, 1 part.\nTapeworm, a Rapid Cure for.— A. J.\nSchafish, of Washington, says that in treating\nsome cases of tapeworm, he employed no pre-\nliminary provisions beyond forbidding the pa-\ntient to take any breakfast the day on which\nit is intended to remove the worm, and giving\nhim a large dose of Rochelle salts the preced-\ning night. At ten o clock in the morning he\nhad the following at one dose Recipe— bark of\npomegranate root, oz.; pumpkin seed,\ndrm.; ethereal extract of male fern, 1 drm.;\npowdered ergot, y% drm.; powdered gum ara-\nble, 2 drm.; Croton oil, 2 drops. The pome-\ngranate bark and pumpkin seed were thor-\noughly bruised, and, with the ergot, boiled in\n8 oz. of water for fifteen minutes, then strain-\ned through a coarse cloth. The Croton oil\nwas first well rubbed up with the acacia and\nextract of male fern, and then formed into an\nemulsion with the decoction. In each case the\nworm was expelled alive and entire within two\nhours. No unpleasant effects followed. In\neach case the worm was passed with the head\nfirmly fastened to the side of its body at about\nthe widest part, from which it was with diffi-\nculty removed; and the worm was twisted and\ndoubled into various knots.— The Druggists 1\nCircular.\nTaps, to Harden. See Hardening.\nTaps, to Temper. See Tempering.\nTarj Barbadoes.— A mineral pitch, a\nbitumen.\nTartar Emetic. The double tartrate of\nantimony and potash, or potassio-tartrate of\nantimony, is much used along with tannin in\nfixing coal tar colors upon cotton.\nTartar, Essence of.— A name sometimes\ngiven to a solution of tartaric acid in water.\nTartar, Liquid (called also protartar\nspirits), is a mixture of the tartaric and sul-\nphuric acids, diluted with water, and weighted\nmore or less with alkaline salts. It is a clear\nliquid, colorless or slightly tinted, having an\nintensely sour taste. It is used by some:\ndyers for leveling a variety of colors, amoiii.;\nother? aniline blues upon wool and worsted.\nTattooing, to Reinove,-l. The opera-\ntion is performed by applying nitric acid with\nthe stopper of the bottle (a better instrument\nwould be a glass rod pointed, to carry the\nacid), just sufficient to cover the stain, so as to\navoid making a larger scar than needful, the\nacid to remain about one and a half minutes,\nuntil the cutis vera is penetrated and a\ncrusted appearance shown, then washed off\nwith clean cold water. In a few days after\nthis treatment a scab forms, which contains\nthe tattoo mark or stain; remove it, and\nshould inflammation supervene, poultice and\nbathe with warm water. In this way the skin\nwith the stain is not only removed almost pain-\nlessly, but the nitric acid at the same time, to a\ncertain extent, seems to decolorize the stain.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0566.jp2"},"563":{"fulltext":"Tayidermy.\n551\nTeeth.\nOf course large tattoo marks, greatly extend-\ning over the surface, must necessitate the\noperation being performed differently.\n2. Dr. Variot, of the Paris Biological Society,\nadvises the following method: Tattoo the\nskin, in the usual way, with a concentrated\nsolution of tannin, following the original de-\nsign. Then apply a crayon of nitrate of silver\nuntil the part tattooed with the tannin black-\nens. Wipe off excess of moisture and allow\nmatters to take their own course. Slight pain\ncontinues for two to four days, and after two\nmonths the cicatrix which results will] almost\ndisappear.— American Druggist.\n3. These are best removed by the following\nplan Wash the part thoroughly with common\ndilute acetic acid. Half an hour later use-\nCaustic potash 4 grn.\nWater 1 oz.\nAfter the lapse of another half hour, use-\nDilute hydrochloric acid 1 drm.\nWater 1 oz.\nThis should be repeated daily. Stronger so-\nlutions may be used, if they can be borne.\n4. It is said that milk pricked under the skin\nin the same way as the ink was originally ap-\nplied will change the blue color to red and\nfinally cause it to disappear.\n5. A writer in the Chemical News has stated\nthat if the tattooing is performed with some\ncarbonaceous matter, the marks can be made\nto disappear by being first well rubbed with a\nsalve of pure acetic acid and lard, then with a\nsolution of potash, and finally with hydrochlo-\nric acid. A dermatologist should be consulted if\npossible.\nTaxidermy, Preparations for. See\nAnatomical Preparations. Also Soaps,\nArsenical.\nTea, Apple.— Roast 8 fine apples in the\noven or before the fire put them in a jug\nwith 2 spoonfuls of sugar, and pour over them\n1 qt. of boiling water. Let the whole stand one\nhour near the fire.\nTea, for Dispensing.— To 2 oz. syrup add\n4 oz. compound tea extract and 2 oz. fruit acid\nsolution.\nTea, for Icing.— Cream for icing, 2 pt.;\nstrong tea, 4 oz.; sugar, 1 oz.; yelks of 4 eggs.\nMix well and strain, ready for icing.\nTea, Hamburger.— Hamburger tea con-\ntains 32 parts of senna leaves, 16 of manna, 8 of\ncoriander, and 1 of tartaric acid, ground up to-\ngether.\nTea, Solidified.— One hundred grm. of\nground sugar and 10 grm. starch sugar are\nboiled with the quantity of water required for\nsolution, until the mass becomes tenacious, but\nyet remains transparent. After cooling, 50\ngrm. of tea previously mixed with 50 grm. of\ndry sugar, are added. The plastic mass is\npressed into moulds, and when solidified forms\nthe preserved tea.\nTeeth, The.— These should be well cleaned\nwith a soft brush and powder every morn-\ning before breakfast. After dinner or other\nmeal they may have the brush passed lightly\nround them for a few seconds, and the mouth\nshould be washed out with a weak solution of\npermanganate of potash or other antiseptic.\nTo scrub the teeth, more especially if the\nbrush be hard, several times daily, is injurious\nto their structure.\nTeeth, Cements for. See Cements.— One of\nthe most important points to attend to in fill-\ning or stopping teeth is, that each tooth must\nbe thoroughly cleaned out, and wiped per-\nfectly dry, before inserting or applying the\ncement, of whatever kind it may be. With-\nout careful attention to this matter, the ce-\nment will not adhere, or will soon become\nloose, and drop out or off, and the operation\nprove a failure. When a defective tooth is con-\nveniently situated, it may often be filled by the\nparty himself, by the exercise of a little skill\nand care, particularly if it be a hollow one\nwith a clearly defined central cavity. When\nthe reverse is the case, it is generally neces-\nsary that the operator should be a second\nparty.— CooZet/ s Cosmetic Arts.\nDentists are more numerous in America than\nin England, and few would probably care to\nfill their own teeth. Too much attention can-\nnot be given to the teeth, and the dentist should\nbe consulted and the teeth examined twice\nyearly.\nOdontalgic Drops, Toothache Drops. See also\nOdonotalig Elixir and Tinctures below. As\nnearly all of them contain highly volatile in-\ngredients, as ether, alcohol, etc., they should\nbe kept in closely stoppered or corked bottles,\nand the mouth should be closed immediately\non their application, and kept so for some time.\nAs many of them contain active ingredients,\ncare should also be taken not to swallow\nthem.\n1. Liquor of ammonia (0 8800— 0 885) 1 part.\nNinety per cent, alcohol 3 or 4 parts.\nA little oil of cloves or of cajeput, or of both,\nis sometimes added. Very effective, if properly\napplied.\n2. Ether l^fl.drm.\nAlcohol lj^fl.drm.\nCamphor 1 drm.\nDissolve, and add, of—\nLiquor of ammonia (0 88O- 0*885) fl.drm\nVery serviceable.\n3. Creosote 1 drm.\nNinety per cent, alcohol 1 drm.\nOil of cloves fl.drru.\nExcellent for rotten or decayed teeth.\n4. Dr. Blake s.—\nAlum (in fine powder) 1 drm.\nSweet spirits of niter 1 fl. oz.\nAgitate them together occasionally for an\nhour. A bad chemical mixture, of little value,\nsince the alum is nearly insoluble in the in-\ntended menstruum. Sweet spirits of niter is\na name for an alcoholic solution of nitrous\nether.\n5. Boerhaave s Odontalgic—\nLtroy.\nOpium drm.\n[avdps.\nCamphor (powdered) 4 or 5 drm.\nOil of cloves 2 fl.drm.\nNinety per cent, alcohol (strong-\nest) lj^fl. oz.\nAgitate the mixture occasionally for a week,\nand, after repose, pour off the clear portion.\nOften serviceable, and much esteemed by some\npersons, as toothache drops.\n6. Dr. Copland s.—\nPowdered opium 10 grn.\nCamphor 10 grn.\nOil of cloves 1 drm.\nOil of cajeput 1 drm.\nNinety per cent, alcohol (strong-\nest) M fl. oz.\nEther fl. oz.\nMix, and agitate the bottle occasionally for a\nday or two, as the last.\n7. Cottereau s A nearly saturated ethereal\nsolution of camphor, to which as much of the\nstrongest liquor of ammonia is added as can be\nwithout clouding the liquid. If the latter oc-\ncurs, the addition of a few drops of alcohol will\nrestore it. A useful remedy.\n8. Righini s.—\nCreosote 5 drm.\nRectified spirit 5 fl.drm.\nTincture of cochineal (strong)... 2 fl.drm.\nOil of peppermint (English) 14 drm.\nMix. Resembles No. 3.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0567.jp2"},"564":{"fulltext":"Teeth.\n552\nTeeth.\n9. American Toothache Drops.— Made by\nMajewskyin Warsaw, have different compo-\nsitions. Those which took the prize at Vienna\nconsisted of common salt and brandy col-\nored with harmless cochineal red.\n10. Hydroclorate of morphia 30 grn.\nConcentrated tincture of pelli-\ntory (made with 90% alcohol).. 2% A- oz.\nOil of cloves j| 11. oz.\nChloroform V z fl. oz.\nAgitate them together until mixed. Used\nas toothache drops, observing- to shake the bot-\ntle well before use, and to keep it closely corked\nor stopped and in a cool place. An excellent\nremedy.\nPastes for the Toothache, Odontalgic Pastes,\nPastae Odontalgics, Pates Odontalgiques.\n1 Root bark of pellitory 1 drm.\nHydrochlorate of morphia .5 grn.\nTriturate until reduced to fine powder, then\nadd, of—\nHoney, finest, thick 3 drm.\nOil of cloves or of cajeput 20 drops.\nConcentrated tincture of pelli-\ntory q. s.\nForm the whole into a smooth paste. Very\neffective.\n2. Pellitory root, in fine powder. 1 part.\nMastic, in fine powder 1 part.\nWhite sugar, in fine powder 1 part.\nChloroform q. s.\nMake them into a paste, and at once put it in\na stoppered bottle. It must be kept in a cool\nplace.\n3. De Handel s\nPowdered opium drm.\nCamphor, powdered.... 1 drm.\nExtract of belladonna 1 drm.\nExtract of henbane 1 drm.\nOil of cajeput 15 drops.\nTincture of cantharides 15 drops\nMix, adding distilled lettuce water, q. s. to\nform a paste.\n4. Rust s\nPowdered opium 10 grn.\nExtract of henbane. 10 grn.\nPowdered pellitory root 20 grn.\nExtract of belladonna 20 grn.\nOil of cloves 15 drops.\nMix thoroughly.\n5. Turton s.—\nPellitory root, powdered 1 drm.\nLump sugar, powdered 1 drm.\nCamphor, powdered 30 grn.\nConcentrated tincture of pelli-\ntory q. s.\nTo form a paste.\n6. Vohler s.—\nDragon s blood, powdered 1 drm.\nOpium, powdered 2 drm.\nGum mastic, powdered 4 drm.\nGum sandarac, powdered 4 drm.\nOil of rosemary 25 drops.\nTincture of opium q. s.\nTo form a paste.\nA small quantity of one of the preceding is\ninserted in the hollow of the aching tooth, or\nplaced against the corresponding gum. They\nmust on no account be swallowed\n7. Myrrhine Tooth Paste.— This favorite Pari-\nsian specialty is said by the Pharm. Era to\nconsist of—\nPrecipitated chalk. 54 parts.\nArrowroot 5 parts.\nPowdered myrrh 7 parts.\nCinnamon 1 part.\nSufficient glycerine to make a paste. A mix-\nture 1 part glycerine and 2 parts chloroform\nwater is better than glycerine alone.\n8. Take sugar of milk, 100 parts; pure tannin,\n15 parts; lake, 10 parts; oils of mint, aniseed and\norange flowers, sufficient quantity. Rub to-\ngether the lake and tannin, gradually add the\nsugar of milk, and then the oils (Recom-\nmended.)\nTooth Pastes for Cleansing the Teeth. See also\nTooth Powders below.\n1. Carbon Tooth Paste, Dentifrice Carbon-\nique, Opiat Carbonique, etc.—\nChippings of Turkey stone (in\nvery fine powder) 2 oz.\nCylinder charcoal (in very fine\npowder) 2 oz.\nPrepared chalk 2 oz.\nCochineal 1% drm.\nCloves l^drm.\nHoney 5 oz.\nEau de Cologne q. g.\nMix as before. In some samples powdered\npumice stone replaces the Turkey stone. Much\nprized by smokers and persons with rotten\nteeth and foul breath but is not fit for very\nfrequent use.\n2. Winckler s Roseate Dentifrice or Tooth\nPaste.—\nCuttle fish bone 1 part.\nConserve of roses (red) 3 parts.\nOtto of roses (per ounce) -j Irons\nMix as before. The otto is dissolved in a lit-\ntle rectified spirit before adding it to the paste,\nor else rubbed up with the dry cuttle fish bone.\nCleans and whitens the teeth rapidly.\n3. Violet Tooth Paste.\nPrepared chalk 3 oz.\nCuttle fish bone (powdered) 2 oz.\nWhite sugar (powdered) 2 oz.\nOrris roqt (powdered) 1 oz.\nSmalts..! drm\nSyrup of violets (to mix) q. s.\nA fashionable tooth paste, highly esteemed\nfor its power of cleaning the teeth and its del-\nicate color and odor.\n4. Ward s Tooth Paste, Zieter s Antiscorbutic\nDentifrice.—\nPrepared chalk 2 oz.\nMyrrh 14 oz.\nRhatany root oz.\nCuttle fish bone jg oz.\nOrris root y± oz.\nHon {orq° Z s.\nA very useful dentifrice in foul, spongy, and\nscorbutic gums, loose and rotten teeth, etc.\n5. Take of\nBurnt hartshorn (or prepared\nchalk) 3 oz.\nCuttle fish bone 2 oz.\nOrris root 1^ oz.\nArmenian bole (or rose pink) 1J^ oz.\nOil of cloves, or essence of am- j 15 to 20\nbergris or musk drops.\n6. Magic Tooth Paste.—\nWhite marble dust 2 oz.\nPumice stone (in impalpable\npowder)... 1% oz.\nRose pink oz.\nHoney 4 oz.\nOttoof roses..\nMix as before. A favorite nostrum for rap-\nidly cleaning and whitening the teeth, but one\nnot adapted for free or frequent use.\n7. Soap Tooth Paste, Spanish Dentifrice.—\nCastile soap (air dried, in fine\npowder) 2 oz.\nCuttle fish bone 2 oz.\nNarbonne honey 4 or 5 oz.\nAromatics or perfume (at will) q. s.\nwith or without the addition of a little 90# al-\ncohol.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0568.jp2"},"565":{"fulltext":"Teeth.\n553\nTeetli.\nA very excellent preparation, superior to all\nthe other pastes for cleaning the teeth and re-\nmoving tartar and animalcules from them.\nTooth Powders.— See also Pastes for Cleaning\nabove. These formulas are of many years,\nstanding. The following receipts are particu-\nlarly recommended, as they come from a re-\nliable authority:\n1. Piesse Lubin s Tooth Powder.—\nPrecipitated chalk 1 lb.\nOrris powder 1 lb.\nCarmine 34 drm.\nPowdered sugar 34 lb.\nOtto of roses and neroli, each 1 drm.\n2 .Opiate Tooth Powder.—\nHoney H lb.\nPrecipitated chalk 34 lb.\nOrris powder 34 lb.\nTincture of opium and myrrh, ea. 34 oz.\nEssence of cloves 34 drm.\nEssence of nutmeg 34 drm.\nEssence of rose J4 drm.\n3. Cuttle fish powder ...8 oz.\nRock alum 1 oz.\nCream of tartar 2 oz.\nOrris root 1 oz.\nBurnt hartshorn. 2 oz.\nOil of rhodeum 6 drops.\n4. Charcoal of the areca nut.\n5. Prepared chalk 2 oz.\nCuttle fish 1 oz.\nOrris root 1 oz.\nMyrrh 3*£ oz.\nSulphate of quinine 10 grn.\n6. Orris root 4 oz.\nCuttle fish 2 oz.\nCream of tartar 1 oz.\nMyrrh J4 oz.\nOil of cloves 16 min.\n7. Peruvian bark. 1 oz.\nCream of tartar 2 drm.\nMyrrh 1 drm.\nCuttlefish 4 drm.\nOil of cloves 8 drops.\n8. Cuttle fish 8 oz.\nCream of tartar 4 oz.\nOrris root 2 oz.\n9. Anadoli. —Tooth Powder by Kreller, Nur-\nemburg.—\nSoap, powdered 42 parts.\nStarch powder 44 parts.\nLevantine soapwort 12 parts.\nOil of bergamot and lemon to color.\nTooth Powders, Dentifrices, Poudres pour\nles Dents, etc. The general principles which\nshould be kept in view in the selection of the\nmaterials, and in the preparation of tooth\npowders, as well as the best method of using\nthem, ought to be very well understood. It\nmay, however, be useful to repeat here that\ngreat care should be taken to finely pulverize\nall the dry ingredients, and to reduce the harder\nand gritty ones to the state of impalpable pow-\nder, either by patient levigation or trituration\nor by elutriation. To insure the perfect mix-\nture of the ingredients, they should be stirred\ntogether until they form an apparently homo-\ngeneous powder, which should then be passed\nor rubbed through a fine gauze sieve. Those\nwhich contain volatile or perishable substances\nor which, like charcoal, are affected by contact\nwith the air, should be put up in dumpy, wide\nmouthed bottles and kept closely corked.\n1. Prepared chalk mixed with 34 its weight to\nan equal weight of cuttle fish bone and aroma-\ntized, or not, with 8 or 10 drops of oil of cloves,\nor with 5 or 6 drops each of the oils of cloves\nand cassia, or with 1 drm. of orris root per oz.\nA simple and really excellent tooth powder for\nfrequent use.\n2. Prepared chalk, burnt hartshorn and cuttle\nfish bone, equal parts, scented as before. Acts\nrather more rapidly than the preceding.\n3. Burnt hartshorn mixed with half its\nweight of cuttle fish bone, as before. Resembles\nthe last in quality, but preferred to it by some\npersons*\n4. Prepared chalk mixed with to ^4 its\nweight of pumice stone in impalpable powder,\nas before. Acts more rapidly than the preced-\ning, but is less fitted for frequent use.\n5. To any one of the preceding add about\nto 3^3 its weight of powdered Castile soap.\nRapidly whitens the teeth and removes tartar.\nThe preceding, with this addition, are highly\nesteemed in fashionable life.\n6. As the last, but using hydrate of alumina\ninstead of soap. Recommended by M. Bon-\nnamy f or its power of rapidly whitening and de-\nodorizing the teeth. It is perfectly harmless.\n7. Prepared chalk 4 oz.\nCuttle fish bone 3 oz.\nOrris root 2 oz.\nDragon s blood 1 oz.\nOil or essence (as last) 34 drm.\nMix; 1 or 2 oz. of red bole or rose pink are\noften added.\nAromatic Tooth Powder.— This name is com-\nmonly given to any powder strongly aromatized\nwith cassia, cloves, and the like. The following\nis the composition of three samples from West\nend houses\n1 Cuttle fish bone 4 oz.\nRed bole... 2 oz.\nCalamus aromaticus 134 oz.\nBicarbonate of soda 2 drm.\nCassia 134 drm.\nCloves 134 drm.\nMusk seed 134 drm.\nYellow sandal wood 34 drm.\n2. Prepared chalk 2 oz.\nBone ash 2 oz.\nPumice stone 134 oz.\nRed bole 134 oz.\nCardamom seeds 34 oz.\nCloves 34 oz.\nCassia 34 oz.\nOrris root 34 oz.\nOil of orange peel 15 drops.\nEssence royale 15 drops.\n3. Cuttle fish bone ..2 oz.\nPowdered oyster shells 2 oz.\nPumice stone 2 oz.\nRose pink 2 oz.\nDragon s blood 1 oz.\nCloves 34oz.\nCassia 34 oz.\nOil of rhodium 12 drops.\nEssence royale 12 drops.\nSome samples of similar composition con-\ntained 34 to part of powdered soap.\n4. Asiatic Dentifrice.—\nRed cordal 5 oz.\nPrepared oyster shells. 5 oz.\nPumice stone 3 oz.\nVenetian red 3 oz.\nOil of cloves 34 fl.drm.\nOil of cassia 34 fl.drm.\nEssence of vanilla 34 fl.drm.\nEssence of musk 34 fl.drm.\n5. Sozodont (Liquid).— Take of potassium car-\nbonate, 3^ oz.; honey, 4oz.; alcohol, 2 oz.; water,\n10 oz.; oil wintergreen and oil rose, sufficient to\nflavor. This is a liquid wash, and is inserted\nhere as it could be more readily found.\n6. Camphorated Chalk.— Precipitated chalk, 1\nlb.; powdered orris root, J4 lb.; powdered cam-\nphor, 34 lb. Reduce the camphor to powder\nby rubbing it in a mortar with a little spirit;\nthen sift the whole well together.\n7. Coral Tooth Powder, Coral Dentifrice.—\nRed coral 3 oz.\nRed bole 3 oz.\nCuttle fish bone 3 oz.\nDragon s blood 134 oz.\nCinnamon oz.\nCochineal 3 drm.\nCloves 1 drm.\nCream of tartar 434 oz.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0569.jp2"},"566":{"fulltext":"Teeth.\n554\nTeeth.\n8. Impalpably pulverized charcoal. 1 oz.\nSugar 1 oz.\nVolatile oil of cloves 3 drops.\nMake into a homogeneous powder under a\nmuller.\n9. Impalpably pulverized charcoal. 1 oz.\nRed bark 1 oz.\nPulverized sugar 4 drm.\nVolatile oil of mint 4 drops.\n10. Impalpably pulverized charcoal. 1 oz.\nSulphate of quinine 2 grn.\nMagnesia 2 grn.\nPerfume with some drops of rose water or\nessence of mint, cinnamon, or with powdered\nrose leaves, or orris root.\n11. Farina Tooth Powder (Piesse).—\nBurnt horn 2 lb.\nOrris root 2 lb.\nCarmine 1 drm.\nVery fine powdered sugar lb.\nOtto of neroli y% drm.\nOtto of lemons 34 oz.\nOtto of bergamot 34 oz.\nOtto of orange peel 34 oz.\nOtto of rosemary 1 drm.\n12. Magic Tooth Powder.— The so-called ma-\ngic tooth paste consists of very fine white mar-\nble dust, 2 oz.; pumice stone in impalpable\npowder, 1)4 oz.; rose pink, oz.; otto of roses,\n7 or 8 drops. Mix with sufficient honey to make\na paste. This will rapidly clean the teeth, but\nit is not adapted for free or frequent use.\n13. Pate Mineral, by M. Berteaux de Chaille-\nvoix, Paris.\nAbsolute alcohol. 7 drm.\nSulphuric acid 3 drm.\nAmmonias aqua 4 scr.\nMix with finely powdered asbestos, to a con-\nsistence equaling a common honey paste. Put\nup in ground stoppered bottles.\n14. Odontine.— There are several dentrifices\nadvertised under this name, two or three of\nwhich have acquired a very large sale in the\nfashionable world. That of a certain eminent\nWest end perfumery house appears to have the\nfollowing composition:\nCuttle fish bone 1 part.\nCastile soap 1 part.\nRed coral 1 part.\nTincture of cochineal (to color)., q. s.\nHoney (to mix) q. s.\nEssential oil (to aromatize) q. s.\n15. Pearl Dentrifice, Pearl Tooth Powder.—\nWhite marble dust 4 oz.\nCattle fish bone 1 oz.\nSmalts (finest) 1 drm.\nEssence de petit grain 10 to 12 drops.\nMix. A favorite with ladies who have white,\nhealthy teeth. Precipitated chalk or heavy\ncarbonate of magnesia is commonly substitut-\ned for the marble dust, but the quality of the\nproduct suffers in all but color.\n16. Peruvian Bark Tooth Powder.— Peruvian\nbark in powder, M lb.; bole armeniac, 1 lb.;\norris powder, 1 lb.; cassia bark, y lb.; pow-\ndered myrrh, lb.; precipitated chalk, y Q lb.;\notto of cloves, 34 oz.\n17. Quinine Tooth Powder. Precipitated\nchalk, 1 lb.; starch powder, 34 lb.; orris pow-\nder, Yq lb.; sulphate of quinine, 1 drm. Sift.\n18. Rose Tooth Powder.— Precipitated chalk,\nlib.; orris powder, y% lb.; rose pink, 2 drm.;\notto of rose, 1 drm.; otto of santal, 34 drm.\n19. Myrrh Dentifrice.—\nCuttle fish bone 6 oz.\nBurnt hartshorn 2 oz.\nMyrrh 2 oz.\nOrris root 2 oz.\nMix. A good powder, often serviceable in\nfoul gums, loose teeth, etc.\n20. Violet Tooth Powder.—\nPrecipitated chalk 6 oz.\nCuttle Ash bone 3 oz.\nRose pink (bright) U% oz.\nOrris root 134 oz.\nEssence of violets (orris) J^ fl.drm.\nIndigo (pure, to strike a violet\ntint) q. s.\nOdontalgic Elixirs, Tooth Elixirs.— These,\nwhen employed to relieve toothache, are ap-\nplied like the drops previously noticed. When\nused to medicate the gums, they are commonly\napplied with the tip of the finger, or the brush,\neither alone, or diluted with an equal bulk, or\ntwice or thrice their bulk, of water. When in-\ntended to correct or disguise foulness of the\nbreath, or to perfume it, they are either ap-\nplied in the way last mentioned or are diluted\nwith 6 or 8 times their bulk of water, the mix-\nture being then used as a rinse or wash for the\nteeth and mouth. The following are chiefly\nnostrums of the first class referred to\n1. Cinnamon 1% drm.\nCloves 13^3 drm.\nNutmeg (grated) 13^ drm.\nVanilla 3^ drm.\nCamphor 15 grn.\nLump sugar (hard, dry) oz.\nPound and rub them together in a mortar\nuntil reduced to powder; put this into a bottle;\nadd of\nTincture of pellitory 2 fl. oz.\nProof spirit, or French brandy\n(strongest) 3^ pt.\nDigest, with agitation, for 8 or 10 days, and\nafter repose, decant or filter. For toothache,\nfoul breath, sore and scorbutic gums, etc.\n2. Desforge s.—\nGum guaiacum (in coarse pow-\nder) 23^ oz.\nCinchona bark (bruised) lj^ oz.\nPellitory root (bruised) lj^ oz.\nCloves 34 oz.\nYellow rind of oranges 1 drm.\nGum benzoin 1 drm.\nHay saffron 1 drm.\nRectified spirit y P^\nFrench brandy 34 Pt.\nMix, etc., as the last. Uses, the same.\n3. Lefandiniere s Elixir for the Teeth and\nGums.—\nGuaiacum raspings 34 oz.\nCloves 34 oz.\nPellitory root (bruised)., 1 drm.\nNutmegs (grated) j4 drm.\nOil of rosemary -j j°ops.\nOil of bergamot..... -j 6 dr r pg r\nBrandy Pt.\nDigest for a week, with aeritation, and then\ndecant or filter. In toothache, scorbutic gums,\nfetid breath, etc.\n4. Elixir of Roses.—\nEauderose... 2 fl. oz.\nSpirit of horseradish 1 oz.\nSpirit of scurvy grass 1 oz.\nCamphor (powdered) 12 grn.\nCochineal (powdered) 12 grn.\nOtto of roses j 3 dr o r ps 4\nSugar candy (powdered) oz.\nDigest for a week, decant, and strain\nthrough muslin. In scurvy of the gums, and\nto perfume the breath.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0570.jp2"},"567":{"fulltext":"Teeth.\n555\nTeeth.\n5. Vining s Tooth Elixir.—\nCinnamon (crushed) oz.\nUnbleached J amaica ginger\n(grated) y% oz.\nCloves 1 drm.\nHay saffron 1 drm.\nOil of peppermint y drm.\nOil of orange peel y, drm.\nOtto of roses 10 drops.\nRectified alcohol y pt.\nDigest fifteen days, as before. For tooth-\nache, foul breath, etc.\nOdontalgic Tinctures, Toothache Tinctures,\nTincturce Odontalgics. These are applied in\nthe same way as the toothache drops previously\nnoticed. They are also often called essences,\netc. The following are a few examples\n1. Tincture of Pellitory.—\nPellitory root (bruised) 1 oz.\nRectified spirit 14 pt.\nDigest a week, with frequent agitation, then\nexpress the tincture, and after repose, decant\nor filter it.\n2. Ethereo-alcoholic Tincture of Pellitory.\nPellitory (bruised) 1 oz.\nEther (pure) 2 fl. oz.\nNinety per cent, alcohol 3 fl. oz.\nDigest them together, in a stoppered bottle\nn a cool place, as before, but avoid filtration.\nSome persons use equal parts of ether and\n90$ alcohol, but the product does not keep so\nwell. An excellent remedy for toothache and\nfaceache, more active than the preceding\noften giving almost immediate relief in the\nformer. Two similar tinctures are in the Paris\nCodex. The addition of a little oil of cloves or\nof cajeput is sometimes made to them.\n3. Ethereal Tincture of Pellitory.—\nPellitory (bruised) 1 oz,\nEther (pure) 8^ flu. oz.\nAnd proceed as before. Very active, but not\nso convenient as the last, from its extreme vol-\natility. It must be kept in a well stoppered\nbottle and in a cool place.\n4. Compound Tincture of Pellitory.\nPellitory (bruised) 4 arm.\nCamphor 3 drm.\nOil of cloves ..2 drm.\nOpium (powdered) 1 drm.\nNinety per cent, alcohol 6 fl. oz.\nDigest for eight days. This is nearly similar\nto Prof. Brande s formula given below. The\nproduct is a most serviceable form of tooth-\nache drops.\n5. Tincture of opium 2 fl.drm.\nEther 4 fl.drm.\nOil of cloves ^fl.drm.\nMix, with agitation, and shake it each time\nbefore use. The product is a favorite form of\ntoothache drops with many persons, and repre-\nsents the composition of several odontalgic\nnostrums.\n6. Creosote 1 drm.\nChloroform 2 drm.\nNinety per cent, alcohol 3 fl.drm.\nMix, etc., as the last. Very serviceable in\ntoothache arising from caries.\n7. Brande s Tooth Tincture, Brande s Odontal-\ngic Essence.—\n_ Troy.\nPellitory of Spain (bruised) 1 oz.\nCamphor M oz.\nOpium 14 oz.\nAvoir.\nOil of cloves 2 fl.drm.\nNinety per cent, alcohol y pt.\nDigest, with agitation, for ten days, then\ndecant the clear portion, express and filter\nthe rest and mix the two together.— Vide No. 4.\n8. Horn s Liton, infallible cure for toothache,\ncontains 5 parts of phosphate of lithia dissolved\nin 400 parts of alcohol.\nTooth Washes, Liquid Dentifrices, etc. 1.\nHudson s Tooth Tincture. A mixture of\nabout equal parts of tincture of myrrh, tinc-\nture of cinchona, cinnamon water, and eau\nd arquebusade (or other like aromatic spirit), to\nwhicn a little sugar and mucilage are added.\nAs the last also to fix the teeth.\n2. Ruspini s Tooth Tincture.—\nOrris root, in coarse powder.. 2 oz.\nCloves, in coarse powder 14 oz.\nAmbergris 5 gr.\nNinety per cent, alcohol y pt.\nDigest, with agitation, for a fortnight. Used\nas the above and, particularly, to sweeten the\nbreath. It has long been a popular and fash-\nionable dentifrice, etc.\n3. Mouth Wash, Camphorated Eau de Co-\nlogne.—\nEau de Cologne 1 qt.\nCamphor 5 oz.\nLotion of Myrrh, Dr. Kirkland s Lotion.—\n1. Tincture of myrrh 1 oz.\nWater 2 oz.\nMucilage oz.\nAgitate them well together, and again each\ntime before use. As a wash in rotten and\nloose teeth, foul, spongy and ulcerated gums,\nfetid breath, etc. It is often very serviceable\nwhere there is a scorbutic taint.\n2. Dr. Kirkland.—\nTincture of myrrh 1 part.\nLime water 1 part.\nUsed as the last.\n3. Compound. Take of\nTincture of myrrh MA- oz.\nHoney of roses y fl. oz.\nLime water y± pt.\nUsed as No. 1.\n4. Tannin (tannic acid) 4 M y drm.\nTincture of tolu 2 fl.drm.\nTincture of myrrh 6 fl.drm.\nSpirit of horseradish 2 fl. oz.\nAgitate them together until solution be com-\nplete. Useful in loose teeth, foul and spongy\ngums, etc., particularly of a scorbutic kind.\nEmulsion or Milk of Myrrh, Myrrh Mixture,\nMyrrh Water.—\n1. Myrrh J£ oz.\nPowder it, add of\nMucilage, thick 2 fl.drm.\nTriturate to a perfectly smooth paste, and,\ntriturating all the time, add gradually, of\nWater, warm y pt.\nAgitate the whole till cold, and then strain\nthe liquid through muslin.\n2. Myrrh 2 drm.\nSal ammoniac 1 drm.\nWater, cold y pt.\nAs the last.\n3. Tincture of. myrrh l^fl oz.\nMucilage, thick y oz.\nWater, cold 8 oz.\nMix by agitation. A fashionable and useful\ndentifrice and wash in foul and rotten teeth,\nspongy and ulcerated gums, etc.\nEau Odontalgique of Dr. O Meara, Paris.—\nVitivert of India 1 drm.\nPyrethrum root y oz.\nCloves 6 grn.\nOrris root 12 grn.\nCoriander 12 grn.\nAlkanet 12 grn.\nEssence of mint (English) 12 drops.\nEssence of bergamot 6 drops.\nAlcohol36° 2 oz.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0571.jp2"},"568":{"fulltext":"Teeth.\n556\nTemperature,\nBruise the solid materials in a mortar and\nplace them, together with the alcohol and es-\nsences, in a tightly covered vessel. Macerate\nfor eight or ten days, stirring frequently dur-\ning the interval, and at the end of that time\ndecant and filter the liquor.\nTooth Wash, Soap.— 1. Camphor, M oz.; tinc-\nture of myrrh, 2 oz.; tincture of Peru balsam,\n2 oz.; rectified spirit, 1 pt.; oil of spearmint, 10\ndrops.\n2. Tooth Soap. Precipitated chalk, 1 lb.;\npowdered orris, X A lb.; powdered myrrh, 2 oz.;\npowdered white soap, 3 oz powdered saffron,\n1 oz.; oil of lavender, 2 drm.\n3. Air dried Castile soap, in powder, 2 oz.;\neuttle fish, in powder, 2 oz.;. honey, 4 or 5 oz.;\naromatics and perfumes to suit.\nLiquid Dentifrice. Odontine.— Dr. Fr. Hoff-\nman s\nQuillaia 4 oz.\nCudbear 1 drm.\nAlcohol, 50^ 32 fl. oz.\nDigest together in a closed vessel for several\ndays and filter. To the filtrate, measuring 32\nfl. oz., add—\nHeliotropin. 2 gr.\nOil of peppermint 20 gtt.\nOil of anise 10 gtt.\nAlcohol 1 fl. oz.\nAllow to stand in a warm place for several\ndays, filter if necessary, and complete by add-\ning—\nGlycerine 2 fl. oz.\nSozodont.— The reddish liquid consists of a\nsolution of 5 grm. oil soap in 6 grm. glycerine,\n30 grm. spirits, 20 grm. water, perfumed with a\nfew drops of oil of peppermint, oil of cloves,\noil of cinnamon and oil of anise, and colored\nwith cochineal. The powder is a mixture of\ncarbonate of lime, magnesia and Florentine\norris root. None of the ingredients can be\nconsidered objectionable.\nVegetable Tonic Tooth Wash.—\n1. Soap bark, ground 2 lb.\nWater 1 gal.\nAdd honey 4 oz.\nSimmer in warm water several hours; let it\nstand overnight; strain through muslin. To\nthe fluid product add an equal amount of al-\ncohol in which has been dissolved—\nG-um myrrh 1 oz.\nOil tea berry 1 oz.\nColor with red sanders, digest one week and\nfilter. This is about the best tooth wash that\ncan be made.\n2. For diseased and inflamed gums, 2 parts of\ngolden seal, 1 part of powdered burnt alum,\nand 2 parts of glycerine, made into a paste and\nrubbed on the gums and around the teeth at\nnight, strengthens and restores the gums to\nhealth, provided no tartar is present to cause\nthe disease, which must be removed first before\napplying.\nTooth Washes— 1. Dissolve 2 oz. of borax in 3\npt. water; before quite cold add thereto 1 tea-\nspoonful of tincture of myrrh and 1 table-\nspoonful of spirits of camphor; bottle for use.\nOne wineglassf ul of the solution, added to pt.\nof tepid water, is sufficient for each application.\nThis solution, applied daily, preserves and\nbeautifies the teeth, extirpates tartarous ad-\nhesion, produces a pearl like whiteness, arrests\ndecay, and induces a healthy action to the gums.\n2. Take of—\nSoap tree bark, in powder........ 2 oz.\nOrris root, in powder, 1 oz.\nCanada snake root, in powder. }4 oz.\nCloves, in powder. oz.\nAlcohol 10 fl. oz.\nWater ..5 fl. oz.\nHoney 2 oz.\nMix the alcohol and water and exhaust the\npowders by the process of percolation; add the\nhoney to the percolate, and filter through\npaper.\n3. Eau de Botat (dentifrice).—\nAnise l z.\nCloves 2 drm.\nCinnamon 2 drm.\nOil of mint i gcr\nBrandy 1% lb.\nTincture of amber l drm.\nAfter six days 1 infusion, filter.\n4. Carbolized Tooth Wash.—\nWater 1,000 parts.\nEssence of meat 2 parts.\nTincture of saponine 50 parts.\nPure carbolic acid 10 parts.\nMix. A dessertspoonful in a quarter of a tum-\nblerful of water serves as an excellent prepara-\ntion for cleansing and preserving the teeth.\nEau de Cologne Dentifrice.— This may be\nmade with tincture of quillaia (1 in 5). Thus-\nSalicylic acid 2 drm.\nTincture of quillaia 2 oz.\nEau de Cologne 3 oz.\nGlycerine 1 oz.\nOrange flower water 7 oz.\nDistilled water. 7 oz.\nMix, shake up with powdered pumice until\nclear, and filter.\nFoaming Tooth Wash.— The following for-\nmula was given in The Chemist and Druggist\nDiary, 1884:\nQuillaia bark, in coarse powder. 4 oz.\nGlycerine 3 oz.\nRectified spirit 5 oz.\nWater 30 oz.\nMacerate for seven days and filter through 2\ndrm. of magnes. carb. with which have been\nmixed oil of wintergreen, 20 drops, and oils of\nneroli and cloves, 4 drops each. Finally add 1\ndrm. each of benzoic acid and tincture of pelli-\ntory; color with cochineal or saffron.\nTeeth., Soap for. See Soaps.\nTemperature, Effects of.—\nDeg. Fo\nCast iron melts, Morveau, at 8696\nGold melts 2200 Kane, Morveau 2518\nCopper melts 1996 Kane, Daniell 2548\nSilver melts, Daniell 2233\nBrass melts, Daniell 1869\nIron, bright cherry red, Poilett 1000\nRed heat visible in daylight, Daniell 680\nZinc begins to burn, Daniell 941\nZinc melts 793 Gmelin, Daniell 648\nMercury boils 644 Daniell, Graham.. 662\nWhale oil boils, Graham 630\nPure lead melts 612 Parkes, Daniell.. 609\nLinseed oil boils 600\nSulphuric acid boiis 545 Philips, Gra-\nham 620\nBismuth melts 518 Gmelin, Philips. 476\nTin melts 442\nArsenious acid volatilizes 380\nMetallic arsenic sublimes 356\nOil of turpentine boils, Kane 315\nEtherification ends 302\nSat. sol. of acetate of soda boils.. 256\nSat. sol. sal ammoniac boils, Taylor. 257\nSat. sol. nitric acid 1*42 boils, and sol.\nsoda 1-44 248\nSat sol. niter boils 238\nSulphur melts 232 Turner, Fownes. 226\nSat. sol. of salt boils, Paris Codex 221\nSat. sol. of alum, carb. soda, and\nsulph. zinc, boil 220\nSat. sol. of chlorate and prussiate of\npotash boil 218\nSat. sol. of sulph. of iron, sulph. of\ncopper, nitrate of lead, boil 216\nSat. sol. of acetate of lead, sulph. and\nbitartrate of potash, boil 214\nWater begins to boil in glass, 213 5 or 213","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0572.jp2"},"569":{"fulltext":"Tempering.\n557\nTempering.\nDeg. F.\nWater boils in metal, barometer at\n30° 213\nAlloy of 5 bismuth, 3 tin, 2 lead,\nmelts 211\nAlloy of 8 bismuth, 5 lead, 3 tin,\nmelts, Kane 201\nSodium begins to melt 194\nNitric acid 1*52 boils 185\nStarch dissolves in water 180\nRectified spirit boils, benzole distills 176\nAlcohol, sp. gr. 0-796 to 0*800, boils. 173\nBeeswax melts 151 Kane, Lepage. 142\nPyroxylic spirit boils, Scanlan 150\nChloroform, and ammonia, of 0*945,\nboil 140\nPotassium melts, Daniell 136\nAcetone, pyroacetic spirit, boils,\nKane 132\nMutton suet and styracine melt 122\nBisulphide of carbon boils, Graham 116\nPure tallow melts 115 Lepage, Thom-\nson 92\nSpermaceti and stearine of lard melt 112\nPhosphorus melts 99\nEther, 0.720 boils. Temperature of\nthe blood 98\nAcetous fermentation ceases, water\nboils in vacuo 88\nVinous fermentation ends, acetous\nfermentation begins 77\nOil of anise liquefies, congeals at 60.. 62\nGay Lussac s alcoholometer gradu-\nated at 59\nSyrups to be kept at 55\nSulphuric acid, sp. gr. 1*741, congeals\n41 or 42\nOlive oil freezes 36\nWater freezes 32\nMilk freezes 30\nVinegar freezes 28\nWine freezes 20\nCold produced by snow and salt\nBrandy freezes 7\nMercury freezes 39*40\nSee also Thermometer.\nTempering. See also Hardening and\nCasehardening.\nAxes, Tempering of.— The poll should be\nheated in a charcoal fire until it is little more\nthan a cherry red. Then change ends and heat\nthe bit to a cherry red. Cool the bit only in\ncold, salt water. Immerse in the water at\nonce, otherwise there may be a fire crack in it\nthat will spoil it.\nScour with brick; put the poll in the fire end-\nways. The temper should run to a blue. Do\nnot use a blast.\nBurglar and Drill Proof Diamond Chill.— Take\n1 gal. urine and add to it 1 oz. borax and 1 oz.\nsalt.\nCold Chisels, Tempering.— Heat the chisel at a\nlow heat, so as not to raise a scale. Dip in a\nbrine of clear salt and water. About 1 qt. of\nsalt to 10 qt. of water is the right proportion.\nLeave heat enough in the tool to run the tem-\nper down to a required hardness, which is\nshown by the pigeon blue color. Take care to\nmake the chisel stout enough that it won t\nspring- in the using.\nDrill, Tempering of.—l. A drill heated to a low\nred, and plunged in a strong solution of chloride\nof zinc, will drill glass.\n2. Heat the drill and rub in cyanide of potas-\nsium. The drill should be hot enough to melt\nthe potassium. Heat again to a dark cherry\nred, and cool it in a very strong brine made\nwith warm, soft water. Do not draw the tem-\nper. The drill will look white, but be hard and\ntough.\n3. The drill should be heated to a cherry in a\ncharcoal fire, then plunged in cold water, to\nwhich a handful of salt is added. Make the\ndrill bright. Draw to a light straw color.\nScrew Gauges.— Heat in melted lead; harden\nin cold water or brine pickle; polish bright;\ndraw to color (straw) in not sand. If the steel\nis homogeneous, there will be no change in\nsize.\nGravers, to Temper.— Instruments larger than\ndrill may be tempered in mercury the same as\nabove, but lead may be used as a substitute for\nmercury. The lead is lessened about half an\ninch, and the instrument, made light red hot,,\nis pressed into the cut. The melted lead then\nsurrounds it.\nGun Springs, to Temper.— To temper gun\nsprings, heat them evenly to a low red heat in\na charcoal fire, and quench them in water with\nthe cold chill off, keeping them immersed until\nreduced to the temperature of the water.\nPlace an iron pan containing lard oil and tal-\nlow, in about equal quantities, over a fire, and\nplace the springs therein, and heat the pan until\nits contents take fire; then hold the springs\nin the flames, turning them over an I over and\ndipping them occasionally in the oil to keep\nthem blazing; when the oil adhering to them\nblazes freely when they are removed from the\nflames, place them aside to cool off.\nSteel, to Give a Temper to Cut Porphyry.\nMake your steel red hot, and plunge it into\ndistilled water from nettles, acanthus and\npilosella, or in the very juice pounded out from\nthese plants. Success doubtful.\nKnife Blades, to Temper.— Be careful about\nheating, otherwise the blade will be warped\nout of shape. When the blade is heated evenly,\nplunge perpendicularly in a bath of raw linseed\noil. The temper should be drawn on a hot iron.\nThe blades may be heated and hardened be-\ntween two straight pieces of iron.\nTempering Liquid.— 1. Saltpeter, 1 oz.; alum,\npulverized, 2 teaspoonfuls salt, 1 teacup soft\nwater, 2 gal.; never heat over a cherry red nor\ndraw any temper.\n2. Water .7^ gal.\nSaltpeter 5 oz.\nSal ammoniac 5 oz.\nAlum 5 oz.\nDraw no temper.\n3. Water 2 gal.\nSaltpeter 2 oz.\nAlum 2 oz.\nSal ammoniac (pulverized) 1 oz.\nSalt 1)4 lb.\nHeat to a cherry red, plunge in, draw no\ntemper.\n4. Water 2 gal.\nSaltpeter J^ oz.\nPulverized borax oz.\nPulverized sal ammoniac oz.\nWhite vitriol 1 oz.\nSalt M pt.\n5. Put oz. of corrosive sublimate in 3 qt.\nof soft water and add 1 handful of common\nsalt. Dissolve, and it is ready for use. This\ngives toughness and hardness to steel. It is a\ndangerous poison.\n6. Alum 1 oz.\nSaltpeter 1 oz,\nSal ammoniac 1 oz.\nSalt.... lb.\nSoft water 13^ gal.\nDraw no temper.\nMill Chisels, Tempering for Cutting French\nBurr.— If cast steel is made white-hot it is\nspoilt yet if a person takes a chisel, mill pick,\nor other pointed tool to be repaired, the smith\npushes it into the fire. The point is soon white\nhot. They will now push it in and out of the fire\na few times, and at last bring it out red-hot\nand work it. Of course it is already spoiled\nand no matter how low it is tempered, it is next\nto useless. Take one to the smith, and see that\nhe puts the body of the tool in the fire, leaving\nthe two thin ends uncovered till the middle is\nred-hot. As soon as the middle is red-hot pull\nback, and let the thin end just get a dull red\nheat. It must now be hammered edgeways","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0573.jp2"},"570":{"fulltext":"Tempering.\n558\nTempering.\nfirst and flatways last of all. It is best to\nhammer it on the flat part of the anvil, as\ndrawing steel on the edge of the anvil, although\na great deal quicker, makes it short in the\ngrain, and always causes the tool to break in\nthe thinnest place. Serve the other end the\nsame, only repeat as soon as it loses its\ndull red color. The lighter the blows in work-\ning steel the tougher it is. The point should\nbe quite as thin as a fitter s chipping chisel,\nonly a little longer, then they will not require\ndoing up so often. When the ends are drawn\nout the middle will have lost its red heat. The\nends can now be filed a little. Now to temper\nthem. Heat them in the flame of the fire,\nusing great care. When a very dull red heat\ncool in rain water, with the chill taken off,\nabout fi in. from the end, and let down to a\nblue if it should be too brittle a little lower.\nServe the other end the same. Cool all over.\nGrind the edge rather blunt, and for the first\nfew blows hit as light as possible. A little\nsoapsuds or oil could be poured on the water,\nbut the water is the best. The secret is in\nworking it at as low heat as possible, only\nkeep on repeating very often, and to hit it\nedgeways as little as possible, but flatways as\nmuch as you like.\nMill Picks, to Temper.— 1. There is nothing\npeculiar in hardening mill picks, only that they\nshould be as hard as possible and moderately\ntough. The greatest care should be taken to\navoid burning the steel. Where there is much\nof this work to be done, the picks can be heated\nin a pot of cherry red hot lead, then dipped\nplumb into clear water at about 60°. Do not\ndraw the temper. The hardening by the ordi-\nnary smith s fire can be well done if charcoal is\nused, and not hurried through the fire. Hurry\nburns the corners. Much also depends upon\nthe shape of the pick, as to whether it is a sec-\ntional or leaf pick, or a thick, solid pick, the\nlast being the most difficult to manage, on ac-\ncount of the sharp edge and thick back. They\nshould be laid across the fire, so as to heat the\neyes as fast as the edge.\n2. Prepare a mixture of\nWater l\\i gal.\nAmmonia V/% oz.\nWhite vitriol 1^2 oz.\nSal ammoniac V4, oz.\nSpirits of niter V/% oz.\nAlum V/% oz.\nSalt 3 oz.\nAnd 1 handful horse hoof parings.\nKeep in a jar tightly corked. The pick should\nhe heated to a dark cherry red and cooled\nin this liquid. Do not draw the temper.\nSprings, to Temper. Tempering of coiled\nsprings requires much judgment, based upon\nexperience with the particular kind of spring\nthat you wish to temper. A coiled spring does\nnot give the faintest idea of its form, size,\nlength, thickness, kind of steel, or whether it\nis a clock spring or car spring, all of which\nmust be considered in the method of treatment.\nAs a general rule, springs that are slender and\nliable to lose shape in a common fire should be\nheated in an oven or muffle, and hardened in wa-\nter or oil. The temper should be drawn in boil-\ning linseed oil. Springs that have stiffness, like\ncar springs, may be heated in a covered forge\nfire to good advantage, and hardened in lard\noil. The temper can be drawn by burning off.\nTo Temper Steel Springs.— Heat to a^ even\nred heat, rather low, to prevent cracking;\nquench in lukewarm water. Place in ladle\nwith enough tallow to cover it heat until tal-\nlow burns with a large flame extending beyond\nladle, then set the ladle aside and allow it to\ncool.\nTempering Revolver Springs.—Heat the spring\nto a cherry red, and plunge in linseed oil. To\ndraw the temper to the desired degree, hold\nthe spring over the fire, and allow the oil to\nburn away, take away from the fire, put on\nmore oil, and let it burn away. Burn the oil off\nthree times, and plunge in the oil again. The\nspring is then ready for use. Do not overheat\nthe steel. Test the temper frequently with a\nfile.\nHow to Temper a Small Spring.— 1. Heat the\nspring to a light red, plunge in cold water:\nhold the spring over the flame of a small fire of\nshavings until it becoms black, then hold in\nthe fire until the black disappears. Cool the\nspring by swinging it in the air.\n2. Heat the spring to a cherry red, plunge in\ncold water, and hold over a small fire until\nwarm. Cool with tallow and burn off the tal-\nlow over the fire, repeat this process two or\nthree times, cool in water.\nThe process of tempering steel consists in\nreheating hardened steel to a temperature\nvarying with the degree of hardness required,\nand coloring it by immersion in the same man-\nner. The proper temperature is indicated by\nthe color of the thin film of oxide formed on\nthe surface of the heated metal, acccordingto\nthe following scale\nColor. For\n220° Pale yellow Lancets.\n230° Straw yellow Razors and surgical in-\nstruments.\n243° Golden yellow. Common razors and pen-\nknives.\n255° Brown Cold chisels, shears, scis-\nsors.\n265° Brown, dappled\nwith purple... Axes, planes, etc.\n277° Purple Table knives, large shears\n288° Bright blue Swords, coiled springs.\n293° Full blue Fine saws, augers, etc.\n316° Dark blue Hand and pit saws.\nThe reheating is generally effected in baths\nof molten metals or metallic alloys having defi-\nnite fusing points. Thus, alloys of tin and\nlead, in varying proportions, may be used up\nto a temperature of 300°; above which boiling\nlinseed oil and pure lead are to be employed.\nThe tenacity of steel is highly increased by\ntempering with oil instead of water.\nTempering Steel.— In judging the proper tem-\nperature and corresponding hardness, the fol-\nlowing table serves admirably. It is often dif-\nficult to heat a piece of steel uniformly; conse-\nComposition of\nMetallic Mixtures.\nMelting\nPoint.\nColors.\nLead.\nTin.\n7\n8\n14\n19\n48\n50\nIn boiling\n4\n4\n4\n4\n4\n4\n2\nlinseed oil\n220°\n228°\n232°\n254°\n265°\n288°\n292°\n316°\nHardly pale yellow.\nPale yellow to straw yellow.\nPairs of scissors\nStraw yellow.\nBrown.\nClasp knives, joiners and carpen-\nSwords, cutlasses, watch springs\nStilettos, boring tools, and fine saws\nPurplish colored.\nBright blue.\nDeep blue.\nBlackish blue.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0574.jp2"},"571":{"fulltext":"Tenacity.\n559\nThermometer.\nquently molten metallic mixtures are em-\nployed, chiefly made up of tin and lead the\nbright hardened steel is kept in these molten\nmixtures until it has assumed the temperature\nof the bath. The foregoing tabulated form ex-\nhibits the composition of the metallic baths\nwhich have been found to be the best for tem-\npering cutlery\nTempering Cast Steel. Dissolve a small\nquantity of sal ammoniac in water, make the\nmetal red, drop it into the mixture for a sec-\nond or two, and take it out, leaving enough\nheat in the metal to draw it back a bit. If left\ntill cold, the steel will be a great deal too\nhard.\nTaps, Tempering of.— Bear in mind that a tap\nis simply a series of cutters on a bar; hence the\ncutting parts must be uniformly hard enough\nto cut, and the base soft as possible to insure\ndurability. This can be best accomplished by\ndipping at as low a heat as possible and making\nthe outside hard, while the inside will be com-\nparatively soft when rubbed off ready for\ntempering. Heat a heavy ring (a broken pul-\nley hub is as good as anything), which have on\nside of your fire for use while hardening taps,\nand also a heavy pair of tongs, made hot in the\nsame way. Take the lever end of the tap with\nthe hot tongs, and insert the tap in the center\nof the hot ring, but do not let it touch the\nsides. It is better to keep turning it round.\nIf the temper draws too fast, where held by\nthe tongs, cool it off, move backward and for-\nward until the right color is attained. This,\ntoo, depends on quality of steel and the size\nand make of the tap, and lastly the purpose\nfor which it is intended.\nTests, Color, for Temper.— Says Mr. J. Richards\nProcure eight pieces of cast steel, about 2 in.\nlong by 1 in. wide and in. thick; heat them\nto a high red heat, and drop them into a salt\nbath. Leave one without tempering, to show\nthe white shade of extreme hardness, and grind\noff and polish one side of each of the remaining\nseven pieces. Then give them to an experi-\nenced tool maker to be drawn to seven various\nshades of temper; ranging from the white piece\nto the dark blue color of soft steel. On the\nbacks of these pieces paste labels, describing\nthe technical name of the shades and the gen-\neral uses to which tools of corresponding hard-\nness are adapted. This will form an interest-\ning collection of specimens, and accustom the\neye to the various tints, which will, after some\nexperience, be instantly recognized when seen\nseparately.\nTempering, by the Thermometer.— Put the ar-\nticles to be tempered into a vessel containing\nsufficient quantity to cover them of oil and tal-\nlow, sand, or a mixture of 8 parts bismuth, 5\nparts lead, and 3 parts tin, the whole to be\nbrought up to and kept up at the heat corre-\nsponding to the hardness required, by means of\na suitable thermometer, till heated equally\nthroughout; the articles are then withdrawn\nand piunged into cold water. If no thermom-\neter is available, it may be observed that oil or\ntallow begins to smoke at 430° or straw color,\nand that it makes fire on a light being pre-\nsented, and goes out when the light is withdrawn\nat 570° or blue.\nTenacity.— Is the resistance to being pulled\nasunder by the force of tension.\nTerpine.— If oil of turpentine is left for a\nlong time in contact with a mixture of nitric\nacid and alcohol, crystals of terpine form. By\nboiling an aqueous solution of terpine with a\nsmall quantity of sulphuric or other acid, ter-\npinole is formed, and may be separated by dis-\ntillation. It has the odor of hyacinths.\nTerra Cotta. (Baked Clay.)— This term is\napplied to statues, architectural ornaments,\netc., made of pure white clay, fine sand and\npowdered potsherds, slowly dried and baked to\na strong hardness.\nTerra Cotta, Cement for. See\nCements.\nTerra Cotta, Lacquer for. See Lac-\nquers.\nTest Papers. See Paper.\nTetter Ointment.— Citrine ointment, 3\ndrm.; spermaceti ointment, 3 drm.; balsam of\nPeru, drm.; carbolic acid, 7% grn.; oil of\nlemon, 15 drops.\nTextile Fibers, Distinction be\ntween, A. Remont communicates a short\nprocess to detect or separate these fibers,\nwhich may suffice for ordinary purposes. The\nfabric to be examined is first dipped, for fifteen\nminutes, in boiling water containing five per\ncent, of hydrochloric acid, for the purpose of\nremoving coloring matter and sizing; it is then\nwashed and dried. If at all possible, the woof\nis then to be separated from the warp, and\neach examined separately, according to the\nfollowing scheme\nA. Burn a few fibers.\n1. An odor of burnt urine is developed. If\nthis is the case, heat a few fibers with solution\nof soda, and examine the vapor given off; if\nammonia is present, this indicates the presence\nof an animal fiber.\nB. Dip a few fibers into a boiling solution of\nbasic chloride of zinc.\na. The fiber dissolves completely.— Silk.\nb. On the addition of hydrochloric acid, an\n.abundant iiocculent precipitate is produced.\nSilk mixed with wood or vegetable fiber.\nc. The chloride of zinc does not dissolve it.\nRemove the fibers to a boiling, moderately di-\nlute solution of soda.\nIt dissolves completely. Wool.\nIt dissolves partially.— Wool and cotton.\n2. No odor of burnt urine is developed.\nVegetable fiber.— Jour, de Pharm. et de CMm.,\n1881, 135.\nTextile Soaps. See Soaps.\nTextiles, to Fireproof. See Fireproof-\ning.\nTextiles, to Waterproof. See Water-\nproofing.\nTlieine C 8 Hj N 4 2 An alkaloid extracted\nfrom tea. It is identical with caffeine, and may\nbe obtained from tea in the same manner as\nthat substance is from coffee. The best gun-\npowder tea contains fully 6% of theine, about\none-half of which is lost in the present careless\nmode of making infusion of tea for the table.\nThermometer Scales.— Much annoyance\nis caused by the great difference of thermom-\neter scales in use in the different civillized\ncountries. The scale of Reaumur prevails in\nGermany. As is well known, he divides the\nspace between the freezing and boiling points\ninto 80°. France uses that of Celsius, who\ngraduated his scale on the decimal system.\nThe most peculiar scale of all, however, is that\nof Fahrenheit, a renowned German physicist,\nwho, in 1714 or 1715, composed his scale, having\nascertained that water can be cooled under the\nfreezing point, without congealing. He there-\nfore did not take the congealing point of\nwater, which is uncertain, but composed a mix-\nture of equal parts of snow and sal ammoniac—\nabout 14° R. This scale is preferable to both\nthose of Reaumur and Celsius, or, as it is also\ncalled, centigrade, because: 1. The regular\ntemperatures of the moderate zone move with-\nin its two zeros, andean therefore be written\nwithout or 2. The scale is divided so fine-\nly that it is not necessary to use fractions\nwhenever careful observations are to be made.\nThese advantages, although drawn into ques-\ntion by some, have been considered sulliciently\nweightj that both Great Britain and America\nhave retained the scales, while the nations of\nthe Continent, France, Spain, etc., use the ol her\ntwo.\nThe conversion of any one of these scales in-","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0575.jp2"},"572":{"fulltext":"Thread. 560\nTinctures.\nto another is very simple, and easily made. To\nchange a temperature as given by Fahrenheit s\nscale into the same as given by the centigrade\nscale, subtract 32° from Fahrenheit s degrees,\nand multiply the remainder by The pro-\nduct will be the temperature in centigrade\ndegrees.\nTo change from Fahrenheit s to Reaumur s\nscale, subtract 32° from Fahrenheit s degrees,\nand multiply the remainder by f. The pro-\nduct will be the temperature in Reaumur s de-\ngrees.\nwith a diamond, the rough back with a file,\nand lightly tap along the furrow with a cold\nchisel. For fixing them where they have to\nstand heat, use Keene s cement.\nTimber, to Fireproof. See Fireproof-\ning.\nTimber, to Preserve. See Wood,\nPreservation of.\nTinctures.— Tinctures are alcoholic solu-\ntions of the active medicinal properties of the\nprincipal ingredients from which they are pre-\nc.\nR.\nF.\nC.\nR.\nF.\nC.\nR.\nF.\n-30\n—24-0\n—22-0\n14\n11 2\n57*2\n58\n46-4\n136 4\n—29\n—23 2\n—20-2\n15\n12-0\n59-0\n59\n47-2\n138-2\n—28\n—22*4\n—18-4\n16\n12*8\n60-8\n60\n48-0\n140\n-27\n—21-6\n—16-6\n17\n13 6\n62-6\n61\n48-8\n141-8\n—26\n—20-8\n—14-8\n18\n14-4\n64-4\n62\n49-6\n143-6\n—25\n—20-0\n—13-0\n19\n15-2\n66.2\n63\n504\n145 4\n-24\n—19-2\n-112\n20\n16-0\n68-0\n64\n512\n147-2\n-23\n—18-4\n—9-4\n21\n16-8\n69-8\n65\n520\n149\n—22\n—17-6\n—7-6\n22\n176\n71-6\n66\n52-8\n150-8\n-21\n—16-8\n—5-8\n23\n18 4\n73-4\n67\n536\n152 6\n—20\n16\n-4-0\n24\n19-2\n75-2\n68\n544\n154-4\n—19\n—15-2\n—2-2\n25\n20-0\n77-0\n69\n552\n156-2\n—18\n—14 4\n0\n.26\n20-8\n78-8\n70\n56-0\n158-0\n17\n—13 6\n14\n27\n21-6\n8U-6\n71\n56-8\n159-8\n—16\n—12-8\n32\n28\n22 4\n82-4\n72\n576\n161-6\n—15\n12-0\n5-0\n29\n23-2\n84-2\n73\n58-4\n163-4\n—14\n—11-2\n6-8\n30\n24-0\n86-0\n74\n59-2\n165-2\n—13\n—10-4\n8-6 i\n31\n24-8\n87-8\n75\n60-0\n167\n-12\n—96\nW4\n32\n256\n89-6\n76\n60-8\n168-8\n—11\n—8-8\n122\n33\n26*4\n91-4\n77\n616\n170 6\n-10\n—8-0\n14-0\n34\n27 2\n93-2\n78\n624\n172-4\n—9\n—7-2\n15-8\n35\n28-0\n95-0\n79\n63-2\n174-2\n—8\n—64\n176\n36\n,28-8\n96-8\n80\n64-0\n176\n—7\n—56\n19-4\n37\n29 6\n98*6\n81\n64-8\n177*8\n-6\n—4 8\n21*2\n38\n30-4\n100*4\n82\n65-6\n179-6\n-5\n—4-0\n230\n39\n31-2\n102 2\n83\n664\n181*4\n—4\n—32\n24-8\n40\n32-0\n104-0\n84\n67-2\n183-2\n—3\n—24\n26-6\n41\n32-8\n105-8\n85\n68-0\n185-0\n-2\n—16\n28-4\n42\n33-6\n107-6\n86\n68-8\n186-8\n—1\n—0-8\n30-2\n43\n34*4\n109-4\n87\n696\n188*6\no-o\n320\n44\n352\n111-2\n88\n70-4\n190-4\n1\n0-8\n33*8\n45\n36-0\n113-0\n89\n71-2\n192 2\n2\n1-6\n35 6\n46\n36-8\n114-8\n90\n72\n194-0\no\n2-4\n37-4\n47\n37 6\n116-6\n91\n72-8\n195 8\n4\n3-2\n39-2\n48\n38-4\n118-4\n92\n736\n197-6\n5\n4-0\n41*0\n49\n39*2\n120-2\n93\n744\n199-4\n6\n4 8\n42-8\n50\n40-0\n122-0\n94\n75 2\n201-2\n7\n5*6\n44-6\n51\n40-8\n123-8\n95\n760\n203\n8\n6 4\n46-4\n52\n416\n125-6\n96\n76-8\n204-8\n9\n7 2\n48-2\n53\n42-4\n127 4\n97\n77-6\n206-6\n10\n8-0\n50-0\n54\n43-2\n129-2\n98\n78-4\n208-4\n11\n8 8\n51.8\n55\n44-0\n131-5\n99\n79-2\n210*2\n12\n9-6\n536\n56\n44-8\n132-8\n100\n80-0\n2120\n13\n10-4\n55*4\n57\n45*6\n1346\nTo change the temperature as given by the\ncentigrade scale into the same as given by Fah-\nrenheit, multiply the centigrade degrees by\nand add 32° to the product. The sum will be\nthe temperature by Fahrenheit s scale.\nTo change from Reaumur s to Fahrenheit s\nscale, multiply the degrees on Reaumur s scale\nby and add 32° to the product. The sum will\nbe the temperature by Fahrenheit s scale.\nFor those who wish to save themselves the\ntrouble we have calculated the preceding com-\nparative table.\nThread, Wax tor. See Waxes.\nTiers Argent. See Alloys.\nTiles, to Cleanse. See Cleansing.\nTiles, Roof, Coating lor.— First dip in\na hot solution of soft soap, and when dry, dip\nin a strong solution of alum. This treatment has\nproved most successful.\nTiles, Glazed, to Cut.— Cut the glazed face\npared. They are compound and simple. The\nmenstruum most commonly employed is proof\nspirit (diluted alcohol U. S. P.), sometimes\ncalled (see alcohol) rectified spirit (alcohol U.\nS. P.), and occasionally ether. Ammonia\nis sometimes conjoined with the spirit, in\nwhich case the solution is termed an ammo-\nniated tincture. Rectified spirit or druggists\nalcohol is alcohol with 15/ of water, and its\nspecific gravity is 835. Proof spirit or diluted\nalcohol is* composed of equal parts of rectified\nspirit and water, 0 935. The choice of men-\nstruum is usually determined, unless where\nspecial objects are in view, by their respective\nsolvent powers over the ingredients used. Tinc-\ntures may be prepared by digestion, infusion,\nmaceration, percolation or displacement, and\noccasionally with either method, with the aid\nof heat. In their preparation by either method,\nthe substances acted upon, except balsams,\noils, etc., should be in the dry state, and made\ninto such condition by bruising, slicing, or\ngrinding- (in the form of coarse powder usually\ni","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0576.jp2"},"573":{"fulltext":"Till.\n561\nTinning.\nis preferable), that the least impediment shall\nbe offered to the action of the menstruum.\nWhen the substance is fluid, as certain balsams,\nand the essential oils in preparing- the so-called\nessences, the solutions are made by merely\nmixing them with the alcohol.\nTo Clarify Tinctures.— In ordinary cases it is\nsufficient for clarifying purposes to allow the\ntincture to stand undisturbed for a few days,\nand then pour off the clear portion, through\nan ordinary filter bag, but a more transparent\npreparation is made by passing it through\nfilter paper.\n1. To Keep Tinctures. Tinctures should be\nkept in closely stoppered bottles in order to\nprevent evaporation, by which their relative\nstrength would be greatly increased. In the\ncase of laudanum and paregoric, serious, and\neven fatal accidents have occurred from neg-\nlect of this precaution.\n2. General Directions for Preparing.— The fol-\nlowing general directions in the preparation\nof tinctures are given in the United States\nPharmacopoeia.\nTinctures, when prepared by maceration,\nshould be frequently shaken during the pro-\ncess, which should be conducted in glass vessels\nwell stopped. When displacement (percola-\ntion) is employed, great care should be taken\nto observe the directions given, so that the\nsubstances treated may be, as far as possible,\nexhausted of their soluble principles, and a\nperfectly clear tincture obtained.\nCanthc rides, Tincture of.\nSpanish flies (in coarse powder) *4 oz.\nProof spirit 1 pt.\nMacerate, with agitation, for a week, and\nthen filter, with expression. Added to pom-\nmades, oils, and washes, to promote the\ngrowth of the hair but it is inconveniently\nweak for the purpose. It is poisonous if swal-\nlowed.\nIodine, Tincture of.—\nIodine oz.\nIodide of potassium *4 oz.\nRectified spirit 1 pt.\nMix, and agitate until solution is complete.\nThis is the tinctura iodi of the British Ph. The\ncompound tincture {tinctura iodinii composita)\nof the London Ph. contains 4 times this quan-\ntity of the iodide. The tinctura iodinei of the\nEdin. Ph. contains 1J4 oz. (troy) of iodine per\npt. (without any iodide), or about 2^4 times\nmore iodine than the former. Used externally\nas a paint (iodine paint), and caustic internal-\nly, in doses of 5 to 20 drops in scrofula, enlarg-\ned and indurated glands, etc.\nTinctures, to Dilute.— The rule is to reduce\nthe strength of the tincture one hundred times\nat every dilution, thus 1 part (by weight) of\nstandard tincture (=a)+100 parts diluent a 1\n1 part a 1 +100 parts diluent=a 2 and so on.\nThe diluent is usually either water or a spirit\njust strong enough to hold the substances in\nsolution.\nTin, Fluxes for. See Fluxes.\nTimber, to Test the Soundness of.—\nTo test the soundness of a piece of timber, ap-\nply the ear to the middle of one of the ends,\nwhile another person strikes upon the oppo-\nsite extremity. If the wood is sound and of\ngood quality, the blow is very distinctly heard,\nhowever long the beam may be. If the wood is\ndisaggregated by decay or otherwise, the\nsound will be for the most part destroyed.\nTin Amalgam. See Amalgam,\nTin, to Bronze. See Bronzing.\nTin, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nTin, to Japan. See Japanning.\nTin, Lacquer for. See Lacquering.\nTinning, to Tin Gray Iron Castings.\n—1. Cleanse the castings by pickling in dilute\nsulphuric acid (1 to 20 of water) and scouring\nwith sand if necessary. Then boil them in con-\ncentrated aqueous solution of stannate of\nsoda, with a quantity of granulated tin. To\ncopper iron castings, clean the iron as above\nand tumble it for a few minutes in sawdust\nmoistened with a solution of copper in two\ngallons of water made slightly acid with sul-\nphuric acid. Wash immediately in hot water.\n2. To tin small castings, clean and boil them\nwith scraps of block tin in a solution of cream\nof tartar.\nTo Tin Iron Cold.— Take equal parts of quick-\nsilver and block tin and melt them together.\nMix also equal parts of muriatic acid and\nwater. Apply the amalgam with a clean rag\nsteeped in the acid mixture.\nTacks, to Tin. A process of tinning iron\ntacks is to triturate chloride of zinc with a\nlarge quantity of oil and heat it in an oscillat-\ning vessel. As soon as this has reached the\nproper temperature, throw in the tacks and\nthe necessary quantity of metallic tin, and\nafter a few seconds dip them out with wire\ngauze and cast them in water.\nTo Give Tin a Crystalline Appearance.— 1. The\nmoire metallique, or crystallized tin plate, is\nmuch used for trunks and fancy articles, and\nis usually prepared from well annealed and\nwell tinned charcoal iron plates, by rinsing\nthe plates with dilute nitric or nitro-muriatic\nacid, and then with water. The cleansed plates\nare dipped for a few moments in aqua regia\n(nitric acid) and muriatic acid, 3 parts, diluted\nwith 1 to 3 volumes of water and heated to\nabout 180° F., and after a short exposure, rinsed\nin running water. Repeat, if necessary, until\nthe crystals are properly developed; then rinse\nin hot water, and dry in the air. Then oil or\nlacquer. Hot tannin or caustic soda solutions\nmay also be used to develop the crystalline\nstructure.\nTin, Crystals on.— 2. Dip the warm plate in\nnitro-muriatic acid diluted with 2 volumes soft\nwater just long enough to develop the larger\nfigures; then immediately plunge into a large\nquantity of cold water, after which dip in\nboiling water, which on removal will cause the\nplate to dry spontaneously. Lacquer immedi-\nately. A similar result is obtained by exposing\nthe plate as it comPS from the tin bath, and\nwhile the metal is still in a semi-fused condition,\nto jets of cold air for a few moments.\n3. Crystallized tin plate has a variegated prim-\nrose appearance, produced upon the surface by\napplying to it in a heated state some dilute\nnitro-muriatic acid for a few seconds, then\nwashing it with water, drying, and coating it\nwith lacquer. The figures are more or less di-\nversified, according to the degree of heat and\nrelative dilution of the acid. The Iron and Steel\nTrade Journal (London) tells how this crystal-\nlization is produced. Place the tin plate, slight-\nly heated, over a tub of water, and rub its sur-\nface with a sponge dipped in a liquid composed\nof 4 parts nitric acid and 2 parts distilled water,\nholding 1 part common salt or sal ammoniac in\nsolution. When the crystalline spangles seem\nto be thoroughly brought out, the plate must\nbe immersed in water, washed either with a\nfeather or a little cotton, taking care n®t to\nrub off the film of tin that forms the feather-\ning, forthwith dried with a low heat, and\ncoated with a lacquer varnish; otherwise\nit loses its luster in the air. If the whole\nsurface is not plunged at once in cold water,\nbut is partially cooled by sprinkling water on\nit, the crystallization will be finely variegated\nwith large and small figures. Similar results\nwill be obtained by blowing cold air through a\npipe on the tinned surface, while it is just pass-\ning from the fused to the solid state.\n4. Sulphuric acid, 4 oz.; soft water, 2to 3 oz M\naccording to strength of the acid salt, 1J4 oz.\nMix; heat the tin hot over the stove. Apply\nthe mixture with a sponge, and wash off at\nonce with clean Avater. Dry the tin, and var-\nnish with dammar varnish.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0577.jp2"},"574":{"fulltext":"Tinning.\n562\nTinning*.\n5. Moire Metallique.— This is produced by the\naction, for a few seconds, of dilute nitro-\nmuriatic acid on tin gently heated, then wash-\ning in hot water, drying, and lacquering. The\ndegree of heat and the strength of the acid\nmodify the appearance. The following is the\nmost approved method of producing this\neffect The plate iron to be tinned is dipped\ninto a tin bath, composed of 200 parts of pure\ntin, 3 parts of copper, and 1 part of arsenic.\nThus tinned, the sheet iron is then submitted\nto the seven following operations\na. Immersing in lye of caustic potassa, and\nwashing.\n0. Immersing in diluted aqua regia, and wash-\ning.\nc. Immersing in lye of caustic potassa, and\nwashing.\ncL Quickly passing through nitric acid, and\nwashing.\ne. Immersing in a lye of caustic potassa, and\nwashing.\nImmersing in aqua regia, and washing.\ng. Immersing in a lye of caustic potassa, and\nwashing.\nThe coat of oxide must be entirely re-\nmoved at each washing, and the last washing\nshould be in hot water. The varnish recom-\nmended is copal in spirit.— Herberger.\nTin Plating Processes.— Perhaps the best and\ncheapest substitute for silver as a white coat-\ning- for tableware, culinary vessels, and the in-\nnumerable articles of manufacture requiring\nsuch a coating is pure tin. It does not com-\npare favorably with silver in point of hardness\nor wearing qualities, but it costs very much\nless than silver, is readily applied, and easily\nkept clean and bright.\nThere are several methods in use by which\nsmall articles, wire, etc., of iron, copper, brass,\nzinc and composition, are tin plated. These\nare 1. By contact with melted tin. 2. By tin\namalgam. 3. By simple immersion. 4. By\nbattery.\nThe contact process is that by which all sheet\ntin, or, more properly, tinned sheet iron is pro-\nduced.\n1. In tinning hollow ware on the inside the\nmetal is first thoroughly cleansed by pickling\nit in dilute sulphuric acid, and scouring it with\nfine sand. It is then heated over a fire to about\nthe melting point of tin, sprinkled with pow-\ndered rosin, and partly filled with melted\npure grain tin covered with rosin to prevent\nits oxidation. The vessel is then quickly\nturned and rolled about in every direction, so\nas to bring every part of the surface in contact\nwith the molten metal.\nThe greater part of the tin is then thrown\nout, and the surface rubbed over with a brush\nof tow to equalize the coating. The operation\nis repeated, if necessary. The vessels usually\ntinned in this manner are of copper and brass,\nbut with a little care in cleansing and manipu-\nlating, iron can also be satisfactorily tinned in\nthis manner.\nThe vessels must be hot enough to keep the\ntin contained in them fused.\n2. The amalgam process is not used so much\nas it was formerly. It consists in applying to\nthe clean and dry metallic surface a film of a\npasty amalgam of tin with mercury, and then\nexposing the surface to heat, which volatilizes\nthe latter, leaving the tin adhering to the\nmetal.\n3. The immersion process is best adapted to\ncoating articles of brass or copper. When im-\nmersed in a hot solution of tin properly pre-\npared the metal is precipitated upon their sur-\nfaces. One of the best solutions for this pur-\npose is the following\nAmmonia alum 17M oz.\nBoiling water 12^6 oz.\nProtochloride of tin 1 oz.\nThe articles to be tinned, first thoroughly\ncleansed, are put into the hot solution until\nproperly whitened.\n4. A better coating can be obtained by us-\ning the following bath, and placing the pieces\nin contact with a strip of clean zinc, also im-\nmersed\nBitartrate of potassium 14 oz.\nWater (soft) 24 oz.\nProtochloride of tin 1 oz.\nIt snould be boiled for a few minutes before\nusing.\n5. The following is one of the best solutions\nfor plating with tin by the battery process\nPotassium pyrophosphate 12 oz.\nProtochloride of tin 4^j oz.\nWater 20 oz.\nThe anode or feeding plate used in this bath\nconsists of pure Banca tin. This plate is joined\nto the positive (copper or carbon) pole of the\nbattery, while the work is suspended from a\nwire connected with the negative (zinc) pole.\nA moderately strong battery is required, and\nthe work is finished by scratch-brushing.\n6. In Weigler s process a bath is prepared by\npassing washed chlorine gas into a concen-\ntrated aqueous solution of stannous chloride\nto saturation, and expelling excess of gas by\nwarming the solution, which is then diluted\nwith about ten volumes of water and filtered,\nif necessary. The articles to be plated are\npickled in dilute sulphuric acid, and polished\nwith fine sand and scratch -brush, rinsed in\nwater, loosely armed with zinc wire or tape,\nand immersed in the bath for ten or fifteen\nminutes at ordinary temperatures. The coat-\ning is finished with the scratch-brush and whit-\ning.\nBy this process iron— cast or wrought— steel,\ncopper, brass, and lead can be tinned without\na separate battery. The only disadvantage of\nthe process is that the bath soon becomes clog-\nged up with zinc chloride, and the tin salt must\nbe frequently renewed.\n7. In Hern s process a bath composed of\nTartaric acid 2 oz.\nWater 100 oz.\nSoda 3 oz.\nProtochloride of tin 3 oz.\nis employed instead of the above. It requires\na somewhat longer exposure to properly tin\narticles in this than in Weigler s bath. Either\nof these baths may be used with a separate\nbattery.\nTinnirtg Iron Articles by Simple Immersion.\nA solution is first made by dissolving with\nthe aid of heat, in an enameled pan, proto-\nchloride of tin (fused), 2% grm.; ammonia\nalum, 75 grm.; water, 5 liters. The chloride of tin\nis readily made by dissolving grain tin in hy-\ndrochloric acid, with the aid of heat, care\nbeing taken to have an excess of metal in the\ndissolving flask. When the bubbles of hydro-\ngen gas which are evolved cease to be given\noff, the action is complete. If the solution be\nevaporated at a gentle heat until a pellicle\nforms on the surface, and the vessel then set\naside to cool, needle like crystals are obtained,\nwhich may be separated from the mother\nliquor by tilting the evaporating dish over a\nsecond vessel of the same kind. When all the\nliquor has thoroughly drained, it should in its\nturn be again evaporated, when a fresh crop\nof crystals will be obtained. The crystals\nshould, before weighing, be gently dried over a\nsand bath. When the solution of tin and alum\nhas been brought to a boil, the iron articles,\nafter being well cleaned and rinsed in water,\nare to be immersed in the liquid, when they\nquickly become coated with a delicately white\nfilm of a dead or matted appearance, which\nmay be rendered bright by means of bran in a\nrevolving cask, or in a leathern bag shaken by\ntwo persons, each holding one end of the bag.\nTo keep up the strength of the tinning bath,\nsmall quantities of the fused chloride of tin\nare added from time to time.\nCopper, Retinning.—l. Make the copper chem-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0578.jp2"},"575":{"fulltext":"Tin.\n563\nToilet.\nically clean by washing with a saturated solu-\ntion of zinc in muriatic acid, the acid to ue\nweakened with water to half strength after\nthe dissolving of the zinc. Heat the copper\nvessel and pour in a small quantity of metal,\nof tin, 1 part, lead 1 part, and shake or tip\nthe vessel until the tinning runs over the parts.\nOr, wipe the melted tin over the bare places\nwith a cotton canvas pad.\n2. The best way to tin old copper utensils is\nto thoroughly clean them with sand and oxalic\nacid, and tin with a large copper soldering\niron, using chloride of zinc and sal ammoniac\n(soldering fluid) for flowing the tin. I It can\nalso be done by heating the vessel and flushing\nmelted tin over the surface, first sprinkling it\nwith powdered resin. You may succeed in this\nafter a few trials.\nTin Oxymurlate. This name is applied\nto a more or less perfect bichloride of tin, in\nsolution. For the use of tissue printers, it is\ngenerally prepared by the action of nitric\nacid upon tin crystals, with due precautions.\nThe names nitro-muriate, perchloride and per-\nmuriate are sometimes given to similar prepara-\ntions.\nTin Powder.— 1. (Ph. E). Melt grain tin in\nan iron vessel, pour it into an earthenware\nmortar heated a little above its boiling point,\nand triturate briskly as the metal cools;\nlastly, sift the product, and repeat the process\nwith what remains in the sieve.\n2. (Ph. D.) Melt grain tin in a black lead cru-\ncible and, while it is cooling, stir it with a rod\nof iron until it is reduced to powder; let the\nfiner particles be separated by means of a sieve,\nand when, after having been several times in\nsuccession shaken with distilled water, the de-\ncanted liquor appears quite clear, let the pro-\nduct be dried for use.\nTin, to Plate with.. See Electro-\nMetallurgy.\nTin 9 to Prepare for Tinning.— To pre-\npare tin for tinning brass, copper and iron.\nMelt the metal in a crucible which has pre-\nviously been slightly warmed; and at the mo-\nment the metal begins to set, and when it is\nvery brittle, pound it up rapidly, and sift when\ncold t o remove any large particles.\nTin, to Solder. See Soldering.\nTin Tree.— 1. Chloride tin, 3 drm.\n2. Nitric acid, 10 drops.\n3. Piece of zinc attached to copper wire.\nPut No. 1 into a glass vessel with sufficient\nwater to 3 parts fill; then add No. 2; shake\nwell until dissolved. Now place No. 3 through\na cork and insert in solution, so that no part\nshall touch top, bottom or side of glass vessel.\nLet the whole rest quietly for a short tin*e.\nThe tree will grow and have a very lustrous\nappearance.\nTinning. See Tin, above, Tinning and Tin\nPlating processes.\nTin Types. See Photography.\nTisanes (Ptisans). Fluid medicines, con-\nsisting for the most part of aqueous infusions,\nor decoctions of substances possessing little ac-\ntivity, and intended to be drunk in consider-\nable quantity. They are much used in France.\nTissier s Metal. See Alloys.\nToilet and Toilet Preparations. See\nCosmetics, and also the following\nAbrasions, Bandoline (see Hair), Baths, Bay\nRum (see Hair), Bites and Stings, Boils, Breath,\nSmoker s; Bruises, Burns and Scalds, Chaps,Chil-\nblains, Cold Sores, Cologne, Corns, Cosmetique,\nCourt Plaster (see Plasters), Dandruff (see\nHair), Depilatories (see Hair), Escharotics, Ex-\ntracts, Essences, Eyelashes, Freckles, Feet,\nHair, Hands (see Skin), Moles, Naevus (see\nSkin), Nails, Oils— Hair (see Hair) Pastils, Fu-\nmigating, Perspiration, Powders, Pomades,\nPoultices, Rouges and Face Paints, Sachet\nPowders (see Powders), Scalp, Smelling Salts (see\nSalts), Skin, Sweating (see Perspiration), Tattoo\nMarks, Teeth, Warts, Wrinkles.\nFrench Toilet Articles.— Mr. Martensou, of St.\nPetersburg, who, it will be remembered, was\none of the Russian delegates to the Interna-\ntional Pharmaceutical Congress, has been an-\nalyzing a number of French preparations for\nthe toilet, most of which are familiar to our\nreaders, at any rate by name and repute.\n1. Eau de Fleurs de Lys (Planchon Riet,\nParis.)— An infallible banisher of freckles, etc.,\netc. The bottle contains 100 grin, of u\nmilky fluid, made up of 97% water, 2 ofo precipi-\ntated calomel, and a small quantity of common\nsalt and corrosive sublimate, and scented with\norange flower water.\n2. Eau de Blanc de Perles. -The bottle contains\n120 grm. of a weak alkaline solution, with a\nthick deposit of lo% of carbonate of lead, and\nscented with otto of roses and geranium.\n3. Nouveau Blanc de Perle, Extra Fin.— (Lubin,\nParis.)— The bottles contain 35 grm. of a liquid\nconsisting of water, holding in suspension\nabout equal parts of zinc oxide, magnesic car-\nbonate, and powdered talc, perfumed with\notto of roses.\n4. Lait de Perles.— A close imitation of No. 3,\nthe bottle holding nearly three times the quan-\ntity for the same price. The amount of the\nprecipitate in this case is 20$.\n5. Lait de Perles.— (Legrand, Paris.)— The bot-\ntles contains 65 grm. of a thick white fluid, the\nprecipitate from which consists of zinc oxide\nand bismuth oxychloride, and is scented with\nrose water.\n6. Lait Antiphelique.—(Can6.es Co., Paris.)\nEach bottle contains 110 grm. of a milky fluid,\nsmelling strongly of camphor, and having an\nacid reacton. It contains alcohol, camphor,\nammonic chloride, of corrosive sublimate,\nalbumen, and a little free hydrochloric acid.\n7. Lait de Concombres.— The bottle contains 160\ngrm. of a very inelegantly made emulsion,\nsmelling of very common rose water, with an\nunpleasant twang about it, and giving a\nstrongly alkaline reaction. It consists of soap,\nglycerin, and cotton seed oil, made into a semi-\nemulsion.\n8. Crime de Fleurs des Lys, Blanc de Ville Onc-\ntueux. About 30 grm. of a kind of weak oint-\nment contained in a small pomatum pot prettily\nornamented. It is simply a salve made of wax\noil, and possibly lard, mixed with a large pro-\nportion of zinc oxide, and smelling of inferior\notto of roses.\n9. Pate de Velonas.— This paste consists of al-\nmond, and possibly other meal, mixed with soap\npowder, and has a strong, alkaline reaction. It\nis scented with orris root.\n10. Rouge Vegetal.— The box contains 8^ grm.\nof raspberry colored powder, consisting chiefly\nof China clay and talc, tinted to the proper\ndepth with extract of cochineal.\n11. Rouge Extra Fin Fonce.—A small square\nbottle containing 11 grm. of a deep red solu-\ntion, smelling of otto of roses and ammonia. It\nconsists of a solution of carmine in ammonia,\nwith an addition of a certain amount of alco-\nhol.\n12. Rouge de Dorin, Extract des Fleurs des\nIndes.—A round pot containing a porcelain\ndisk, covered with about 6 grm. of a bright red\npaste, which is a mixture of carthamin or\nsafflower with talc. This rouge, which differs\nfrom all the others, is harmless and effectual,\nbut must bear a high profit, seeing that the\ningredients cost only a few cents, while it\nsells in St. Petersburg at a dollar a pot.\n13. Etui Mysterieux ou Boite de Maintenon.—\nA prettily got up box containing red and white\npaint, and two sticks of black and blue cos-\nmetic for the eyebrows and veins, with camel s\nhair pencils for applying the latter. Sells in\nSt. Petersburg at $1.10.\n11. Philidore.—Rannle Specitique pourbtn- len\nPellicules de la tete. etc. The bottle contains\n100 grm. of a strong alkaline solution smelling","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0579.jp2"},"576":{"fulltext":"Tobacco.\n564\nTransferring.\nstrongly of ammonia, and containing potash,\nammonia, alcohol, glycerin, and eau de co-\nlogne.\n15. Colorigene Rigaud.—A blue bottle contain-\ning 160 grm. of a clear fluid with a slight black\ndeposit, consisting of a mixture of equal parts\nof a 11% solution of sodic hyposulphate and 4%\nsolution of lead acetate. Of course the longer\nthis solution is kept the more lead sulphate it\ndeposits. It sells in St. Petersburg at $1.60 per\nbottle. It is also stated to be much more\npowerful if used in conjunction with the Pom-\nmade Miranda Bigaud. This beats Mrs. Allen\ncompletely out of the field.— Pharmaceutische\nZeitschrift fur Russland.\nTobacco, Plug. Strip the tobacco, sprin-\nkle the leaves with a liquor of white sugar,\nblack licorice, and water make into rolls, and\nwhile moist press flat in moulds.\nToilet Soaps. See Soaps.\nToilet Powders. See Powders.\nTokay. See Wines.\nTombac. See Alloys.\nTombstones, Ink for. See Inks.\nToning; Baths. See Photography.\nTonquinol. Tonquinol is a new com-\npound offered as a substitute for musk, and is\nsaid by the patentees (Germany) to be deriva-\ntive of a nitrited terpene and a nitrited sulpho-\nacid of xylol. Tonquinol is in the form of a\nwhite crystalline powder, which, after solution\nin 50 parts of alcohol, may be mixed with water\nin all proportions. It is claimed to be very\npermanent and cheaper than Baur s artificial\nmusk.\nTools, to Prevent Rust on. See Rust.\nTools, Sharpening of.— Glycerine for\nSharpening Edged Tools,— Instead of oil,\nwhich thickens and makes the stones dirty, a\nmixture of glycerine and alcohol is used by\nmany. The proportions of the mixture vary\naccording to the instrument operated upon.\nAn article with a large surface, a razor for in-\nstance, sharpens best with a limpid liquid, as\nthree parts of glycerine to one of alcohol. For\na graving tool, the cutting surface of which\nis very small, as is also the pressure exercised\non the stone in sharpening it is necessary to\nemploy glycerine almost pure, with but two\nor three drops of alcohol.\nTools, Varnish for. See Varnishes.\nToothache, Remedies for. See Teeth,\nthe.\nTortoise Shell, Cement for. See Ce-\nments.\nTortoise Shell, to Finish .—Tortoise shell\nis finished by scraping. Then it is polished with\npulverized charcoal and water on a woolen\ncloth perfectly free from grease. This is fol-\nlowed by water and washed chalk or whiting,\nthe article being moistened with vinegar.\nFinally it is hand-rubbed with dry whiting or\nrottenstone.\nTortoise Shell, Imitation of.— 1. The\ndark spots in horn that are made to represent\ntortoise shell are produced by using a strong\naqueous solution of silver nitrate mixed with\ngum arabic so as to flow properly from a brush.\nA little red lead may be mixed with it to give\nbody. After standing an hour soak in soft\nwater for several hours before finishing. Pieces\nof horn may be united by softening the edges\nwith boiling water and then submitting to pow-\nerful pressure while surrounded with boiling\nwater.\n2. The imitation of tortoise shell with horn is\nmade as follows: Mix an equal quantity of\nquicklime and red lead with soap lees lay it on\nthe horn with a small brush in imitation of the\nmottle of the tortoise shell when it is dry, re-\npeat it two or three times; or grind 1 oz. of\nlitharge and ]4 oz. of quicklime together,\nwith q. s. of liquid potassium carbonate to\nmake it of the consistence of paint. Put\nit on the horn with a brush in imitation of tor-\ntoise shell, and in three or four hours it will\nhave produced the desired effect. It may then\nbe washed off with clean water if not deep\nenough, it may be repeated. The original prep-\naration consists in roasting the horn over a fire\nmade of the stalks of furze; when rendered soft\nit is slit on one side, and kept expanded flat be-\ntween a pair of tongs; it is then placed between\niron plates, which are greased. The horns are\nsuffered to remain until they are cooled they\nare then soaked in water enough to be pared\ndown to the required thinness, with .a large\nknife worked horizontally on a block. Their\ntransparency is thus acquired and after being\nimmersed in lye, they are polished with whiting\nand the coal of burnt willow.\nTortoise Shell, Japan. See Japans.\nTortoise Shell, to Join or Weld.— 1.\nBring the edges of the pieces of shell to fit each\nother, observing to give the same inclination\nof grain to each; then secure them in a piece\nof paper, and place them between hot irons or\npincers; apply pressure, and let them cool.\nThe heat must not be so great as to burn the\nshell therefore try it first on a white piece of\npaper.\n2. Small pieces of good tortoise shell may be\njoined so as to form one large apparently seam-\nless piece in the following manner Slope off\nthe margins of the shells for a distance of about\na 34 of an in. from the edge. Then place them\nso that the margins overlap one another and\nthus arranged put them in an iron press and\nimmerse in boiling water for some time. The\npieces by this means become so perfectly united\nthat the joint cannot be seen. The filings and\nvery small scraps may be softened in hot water\nand consolidated by hydraulic pressure in metal\nmoulds. Protracted heating of tortoise shell\ndarkens it, and greatly lessens its beauty.\nTouch Paper. See Pyrotechny.\nTourbillion. See Pyrotechny.\nTo urnay s Metal. See Alloys.\nToys, Composition for. See Compo*\nsitions.\nToys, Paints for. See Paints.\nToys, Varnish for. See Varnishes,\nTracing Cloth.—\n1. Boiled linseed oil (bleached) .10 lb.\nLead shavings y% lb.\nZinc oxide 2J^ lb\nVenetian turpentine 34 lb.\nBoil for several hours, then strain, and dis-\nsolve in the strained composition 2^j lb. white\ngam copal. Remove from the fire, and when\npartly cold, add oil of turpentine (purified),\nsufficient to bring it to proper consistence.\nMoisten the cloth thoroughly in benzole and\ngive it a flowing coat of the varnish.\n2. Varnish the cloth with Canada balsam dis-\nsolved in turpentine, to which may be added a\nfew drops of castor oil, but do not add too\nmuch, or it will not dry. Try a little piece\nfirst with a small quantity of varnish. The\nkind of cloth to use is fine linen; don t let the\nvarnish be too thick.\nTracing Paper. See Paper,\nTracings, to Color.— It is always best to\ncolor tracings on the back, as the ink lines are\nliable to be obliterated when the color is ap-\nplied. Mix the colors very dark, so that they\nmay appear of proper depth on the other side.\nIf ink or color does not run freely on tracing\ncloth, mix both with a little ox gall.\nTransfer Ink. See Inks.\nTransfer I*aper. See Paper.\nTransferring.— Engravings, to Transfer.—\nSoak the picture in water. Varnish the plate\nof glass with dammar varnish or Canada bal-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0580.jp2"},"577":{"fulltext":"Transferring.\n565\nTransferring.\nsam. When just tacky, remove the picture\nfrom the water and place it face downward on\nthe varnish side of the glass, gently rub it on,\nseeing that no air bubbles are left between\npaper and varnished glass. Let it dry until\nperfectly hard. Then with the wet finger tip\nrub off the paper until little more than the\ndesign is left. Varnish a second time and allow\nto dry. The result is apt to be either too pale\nor too obscure.\nTransfers to Boxwood, for Engraving.— A so-\nlution of potash or lye is used to soften prints,\nby means of which, and heavy pressure, they\nare transferred to boxwood and then re-en-\ngraved by hand. In order to make a printing\nblock without re-engraving as above, the pho-\nto process must be employed.\nTransferring to Glass. Any picture, print or\neven clipping from newspapers, any engrav-\ning, no matter in how many colors, or on what\nkind of paper, may be transferred to glass,\nsays a contemporary, only the treatment of\nthe different kinds of paper differs. Proceed\nin the following manner Place the object to\nbe transferred, face downward, upon a larger\nsheet of manila paper; prepare a solution of\nfrom one to three per cent, of nitric acid in\nwater, according to thickness and strength of\npaper, and how strong it was sized ordinary\nnewspapers and printings or engravings on un-\nsized glaze paper require even less than one\nper cent, nitric acid one of the purposes of\nadding nitric acid is to remove the sizing out\n.of the paper. This solution apply with a\nsponge to the back of your object to be trans-\nferred; be careful not to overdo it; you only\nwautto render the paper soft but not wet.\nContinue sponging with this solution until you\nsee the printing plainly; that is, until the paper\nbecomes quite transparent.\nTo prepare the glass for transferring-, proceed\nas follows: Clean the glass plate thoroughly\nwith alcohol by means of a ball of clean cotton;\ndry it off well; wash it with turpentine; dry it\noff again; place the glass plate upon a smooth\nelastic layer— for instance, flannel— and with\nthis elastic layer upon a table, or better yet,\nupon a rubber blanket in the litho hand-press.\nNow coat the cleaned surface with a thin coat\nof half turpentine and half dammar varnish; let\nit dry from ten minutes to one day according\nto temperature and thickness of dammar var-\nnish. The coating should not be allowed to dry\nentirely; it should be a trifle adhesive. Lay\nyour impression face downward upon the\nglass plate; it is important that neither acid\nnor water touches the surface during the en-\ntire process. To properly lay down the im-\npression, take it up with both hands by holding\nthe left hand under corner and the right hand\nupper corner; be careful not to get any air\nbuboles under the sheet. This is best accom-\nplished by marking upon the plate the exact\nposition and size of the sheet.\nLaying down the paper first, adjust the right\nhand upper corner to the mark on the plate,\nhold it there with the tip of your finger and\nadjust the left hand lower corner, but be care-\nful to avoid air bubbles.\nPress the sheet to the adhesive dammar coat.\nThis may be done in many different manners.\nIt does not require a very strong pressure, but\nOf should be observed that each and every spot\nhas to be pressed repeatedly against the plate.\nWhen the paper sticks quite smoothly to the\nplate, fan it perfectly dry, and then, with wet\nfinger tips, slowly rub off the paper.\nIf this is done with great care, you will re-\nmove every vestige of paper, and the print, of\nwhatever color or nature it may be, will remain\non the glass plate. Upon this apply another\ncoat of dammar varnish containing very little\nturpentine. With too much turpentine, you\nrun the risk of washing the entire picture from\nthe plate again.\nTransferring Engravings to Paper. 1. The\nliquid used for this purpose may be made by\ndissolving 1)4 drm. of common yellow soap in 1\npt. of hot water, adding when nearly cool, fl.\noz. of spirit of turpentine and shaking thor-\noughly together. Apply the fluid liberally to\nthe surface of the engraving or other printed\nmatter with a soft brush or sponge (being care-\nful not to smear the ink, which soon becomes\nsoftened), and allow it to soak for a few min-\nutes. Then well damp the plain paper, on which\nthe transfer is to be made, place it upon the\nengraving and subject the whole to moderate\npressure for about one minute. On separating-\nthem a reversed transfer will be found on the\npaper. The transfer will not be equal in inten-\nsity to the original, as only a part of the print-\ner s ink is removed. If the ink be very old, a\nlonger soaking and more pressure may be\nnecessary. —English Mechanic.\n2. Engravings may be transferred on white\npaper as follows: Place the engraving a few\nseconds over the vapor of iodine. Dip a slip of\nwhite paper in a weak solution of starch, and\nwhen dry, in a weak solution of oil of vitriol.\nWhen again dry, lay a slip upon the engraving-\nand place both for a few minutes under a\npress. The engraving will be reproduced in all\nits delicacy and finish.\nTransfer Ornamenting.— There are many dif-\nferent ways of putting on the ornament, some\npreferring one way, others a different method,\naccording to circumstances and individual skill.\nWe shall endeavor to give the most simple and\nsuccessful method known.\nFirst, let it be understood that all pictures\nthat show the colors complete are only suitable\nfor white or very light colored brown those\nthat are covered with a white grounding, gold,\nmetal, or silver leaf, can be used on any color,\nlight or dark. After getting the work ready\nfor ornamenting, give the picture a smooth,\nthin coat of some quick drying copal varnish,\nthinned with turpentine (other preparations\nare used of which we will speak hereafter),\nbeing careful not to go beyond the outline of\nthe design. Allow it to dry until it has a good\ntack, and put it on the work in its proper\nplace. Roll it smooth with an India rubber\nroller, or smooth it with a paper folder, until\nevery part adheres well. (For very large\npieces, it is well to lay them, after they have\nthe right tack, between 2 sheets of damp blot-\nting paper. It will stretch the paper and make\na smooth transfer.) Now wet the paper,\nsmoothing it down at the same time, until it\nhas absorbed all the water possible; leave it\nabout a minute, and pull off the paper carefully.\nShould any parts of the design still adhere to\nthe paper, press it down again, wet-rub it until\nit separates easily.\nAfter having removed the paper, press the\ndesign on well and wash and dry it off. Should\nany blisters appear, prick them with a pin and\npress down. In a few hours the design may be\nvarnished, which will increase the brilliancy of\nthe colors.\nAn improved method has been invented by\nMr. C. P., of New York City, which saves time\nand works with more certainty. The design is\ncoated with a transfer cement of his own manu-\nfacture, without regard to outline, transferred\nas usual, and the traces of the cement around\nthe design washed off, with the detergent (also\nhis own invention), which will remove every\nparticle of cement without injuring the colors\nor gold in the least. A few drops poured on a\nsponge or chamois skin are sufficient.\nFor fine ornaments, having many fine lines\nand touches, it is necessary to use these prepa-\nrations to make a neat job.\nPictures, to Transfer to Wagons— Cover\nthe picture entirely (taking care not to\ngo beyond the outlines) with a slight coat of\nfixing varnish, then put the picture on the ob-\nject to be ornamented, being careful to place\nit properly at once, to avoid spoiling it by\nmoving. The varnish newly applied being too\nliquid, the picture should be allowed to dry lor","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0581.jp2"},"578":{"fulltext":"Transferring.\n566\nTurbines.\nabout ten minutes, and placed on the object to\nbe ornamented, when just damp enough to be\nadherent this done, cover the back of the pic-\nture with a piece of cloth steeped in water;\nthen, by means of a knife or penholder, rub it\nall over, so as to fix every part of it then re-\nmove the piece of cloth and rinse the paper\nwith a paint brush steeped in water at the end\nof a few minutes the paper will come off, leav-\ning the painting transferi^ed. Care must be\ntaken that the piece of cloth, without being\ntoo wet, is sufficiently so for the paper to be\nentirely saturated. The picture must now be\nwashed with a wet brush, and dried very\nlightly with some blotting paper. Keep the\nornamented article in a warm, dry place, until\ndry. The polishing varnish should not be ap-\nplied until the next day, keeping the pictures\nmeanwhile out of the dust. The latter var-\nnish should be applied as lightly as possible. If\ndark colored objects are to be ornamented, the\npicture should first be covered with a mixture\nof white lead and turpentine, following the\noutlines of the design, and covering it entirely.\nWhen this coat is perfectly dry, proceed as\nabove.\nPrints, to Transfer to Glass, Steel, Etc.—\nTo transfer prints to polished steel, or to\nglass, make a varnish as follows Gum sand-\narac, 4oz.; mastic, 1 oz.; Venice turpentine, 1\noz.; alcohol, 15 oz.; or any smaller quantity in\nproportion. Digest in a bottle, with frequent\nshaking. Moisten the print slightly upon the\nback by laying a wet cloth upon it then var-\nnish the steel plate or glass with a thin even\ncoat lay the print with the face next to the\nvarnish, commencing on one side so as not to\ninclose air bubbles, pressing it down close with\nthe fingers if the print is small, or a soft roller\nif the print is large. Be careful that all parts\nof the print are in contact with the varnish.\nJLay aside to dry. After it is dry, wet the back\nwith water and cautiously rub the paper off\nwith the fingers; rub lightly toward the last\nwith plenty of water, and the surface of the\nvarnish will come up smooth with the ink of\nthe print solidly embedded. Then a thin coat of\nmastic varnish will give it a finish.\nTransferring Prints to Glass. First coat\nthe glass with dammar varnish or else with\nCanada balsam mixed with an equal volume\nof oil of turpentine, and let it dry until it\nis very sticky, which takes half a day or more.\nThe printed paper to be transferred should be\nwell soaked in soft water and carefully laid\nupon the prepared glass, after removing sur-\nplus water with blotting paper, and pressed\nupon it, so that no air bubbles or drops of water\nare seen underneath. This should dry a whole\nday .before it is touched then with wetted\nfingers begin to rub off the paper at the back.\nIf this be skillfully done, almost the whole of\nthe paper can be removed, leaving simply the\nink upon the varnish. When the paper has\nbeen removed, another coat of varnish will\nserve to make the whole more transparent.—\nNat. Druggist.\nTransferring Writing to Type Metal.\nSprinkle the ink lines, while moist, with gum\narabic in finest powder. When perfectly dry\ndust off excess, stretch the paper on a smooth\nlevel backing, and pour on the fusible metal.\nTransferring Varnish for. See Var-\nnishes.\nTrappistine. See Iiiquors.\nTreacle.— The name used by the English to\ndenote molasses.\nTrees, Cement for e See Cements,\nTrees, Fruit. Coating for Amputated\nBranches and Wounds in. Shellac, dissolved in\nalcohol, forms an excellent coating lor ampu-\ntated branches and for wounds of fruit trees,\nmaking a water-proof artifical skin, under\nwhich the wood grows until the wound is\nhealed. See also Wax, Grafting.\nTo Prevent Ants from Injuring.— Make a line\nof gas tar round the stem of the tree, or if it\nbe trained on a. wall, make a horizontal line\nnear the ground on the wall, and one around\nthe stem; this will prevent ants from ascend-\ning.\nTrees, to Protect, from Mice.— A mixture of\ntallow, 3 parts; tar, 1 part. Applied to the bark\nwhile hot, will protect fruit trees against mice.\nTree Stumps, to Remove. See Stumps,\nRemoval of.\nTripe, Curing- of.— In New York it is par-\ntially parboiled, but in some other places only\nwashed with cold water before sent to market;\nit is generally cured by pickling in hot vinegar\nand spices, after cooking.\nTripoli. —The remains of very minute\nshells, which can be easily seen with the aid of\nthe microscope. Tripoli is used with oil, then\ndry. It is grayish-yellow in color, and is ex-\ntensively used to polish the softer metals.\nTrituration.— The reduction of friable\nsubstances with the pestle. A circular or\nrotary motion is given to the pestle. Sand is\nadded to reduce resins, but should only be used\nwhen the resin is afterward to be gotten into\nsolution.\nTrona.— A native sodium carbonate, found\non the banks of the Soda lakes, of Sokena, in\nAfrica.\nTroy W eight. See Appendix.\nTubania. See Alloys.\nTubes, Zinc, to Bend.— Solder the joint\nevenly, and with as little solder as possible; put\na cork in one enci, fill with slightly damp sand,\nand ram in tight, closing with another cork;\nheat the tube until just uncomfortably hot to\nthe hand, and then bend round a bit of board\nsawn to the curve required.\nTurbines, the Horse Power of.— The\npower of water is its weight multiplied by the\nvelocity, and in order to illustrate we will sup-\npose a turbine wheel, working under 15 ft.\nhead, will discharge 3,168 cubic ft. of water per\nminute, and utilize 80$ of the full power of the\nwater. Multiply the cubic ft. discharged per\nminute by 62J^, which is the number of lb. each\ncubic ft. of water weighs at the average tem-\nperature, and this product by height of head\nunder which the wheels are working, and that\nproduct divided by 33,000 lb., this number of lb.\nraised 1 ft. high in one minute being 1 horse\npower, which will give the full horse power of\n3,168 cubic ft. per minute, under 15 ft. head; and\nas no wheel will produce 100$, the percentage\nthe wheel in question is known to produce or\nutilize must be taken as the actual horse power,\nas in the example here given:\n3168 cubic ft. per minute.\n62^ weight of 1 cubic ft.\n1056\n6336\n19008\n197472 full weight of water.\n15 ft. head.\n987360\n197472\n33000 )2962080(\n261000\n89 76 full value of water.\n80$ utilized.\n322080 71-8080\n297000\n250800\n231000\nnet horse power, or\n80$ of the full pow-\ner of water.\n198000\n198000\nIt will be seen that the effective horse power\nat 80^ of the full value of the water is 71-80.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0582.jp2"},"579":{"fulltext":"Turmeric.\n56?\nVarnishes.\nWe will now suppose the wheel had only uti-\nlized W%, then multiply the full value, 89 76, by\nGO, and the horse power would be 54 55. It the\nwheel would utilize 75%, the effective horse\npower would be 67 32. From the explanation\nand example given it can easily be ascertained\nwhat number of horse power any wheel will\nproduce with a given number of cubic ft. of\nwater per minute, on any head, provided the\npercentage the wheel in question will utilize is\nknown.\nTurmeric.— The root of a plant (Curcuma\nhmija) growing in India, China and Madagascar,\nand now chiefly cultivated in Bengal. The\nroots are long and vary in thickness from that\nof a quill to about half an in. in diameter.\nThey are wrinkled, and have joints or ring-like\nswellings at short intervals. Outwardly the\ncolor is a yellowish gray, while inwardly it is\nof a deep yellowish brown, darkest in the mid-\ndie. When reduced to powder it is of a bright\nyellow. See Paper, Test.\nTurner s Cement. See Cement.\nTurpentine.— This valuable fluid is the\nproduct of several trees, principally Pinus\npalustris and P. tcecla. Most of it comes from\nthe United States, generally in large barrels, of\nthe consistence of treacle or honey. The oil is\nobtained by distillation and the remainder is\nthe common resin; sometimes called rosin,\nwhich is applied to a variety of uses. There are\nseveral kinds of turpentine, viz., Venice tur-\npentine, procured from the Abies la/rix, Stras-\nburg, from Abies pectinata, Bordeaux turpen-\ntine, from ohe Pinus pinaster, and Chio turps,\nfrom the Pistacia terebinthis.\nTurpentine Chio. (Factitious), Terebinthina\nChia Factitia. Black rosin, 7 lb.; melt, remove\nthe heat, and stir in balsam of Canada, 7 lb.\nSome add a few drops of the oils of fennel and\njuniper. This article is now very generally\nsold in trade for genuine Chia turpentine.\nTurpentine, Oil of. See Oils.\nTurpentine, Venice, Terebinthina Veneta.—\nGenuine Venice turpentine is the product of\nthe Larix Europcea, but this is now scarcely\never met with in trade. That of the shops is\nwholly a factitious article, made as follows\nBlack rosin, 48 lb.; melt, remove the heat, and\nadd oil of turpentine, 2 gal.\nTutania. See Alloys.\nTutenag. See Alloys.\nTutty Powder.— Impure oxide of zinc.\nA substance which collects in the chimneys of\nthe furnaces in which the ores of zinc are\nsmelted.\nTwine, Gloss for. —To lib. starch add (at\nblood heat) blood albumen, 2 oz.; water glass\n(syrupy), 3 oz.; curd soap, 34 oz. (dissolved in\nwarm water). Beat together and let it stand\nforty-eight hours or more before applying.\nType Metal. See Alloys.\nTypewriter Ribbons, to Ink. See\nInk*.\nUmbrellas, Varnish for. See Var-\nnishes.\nUmbrellas, to Waterproof. See\nW aterproonng.\nUltramarine, Artificial. —1. Kaolin, 37\nparts; sodium sulphate, 15 parts; sodium car-\nbonate, 22 parts; sulphur, 18 parts; charcoal, 8\nparts; intimately mix and heat for twenty-\nfour to thirty hours in crucibles; the prod-\nuct is then heated in cast iron boxes, at a\nmoderate temperature, till the required tint is\nobtained; finally it is pulverized, washed, and\ndried.\n2. Gmelin.— Sulphur, 2 parts; sodium carbon-\nate (dry), I part mix well gradually heat\nthem in a covered crucible to redness, or till\nthe mixture fuses, then sprinkle in by degrees\nanother mixture of sodium silicate and alumin-\nate of soda (containing 72 parts of silica and\n70 parts of alumina), and continue the heat for\nan hour. The product contains a little free\nsulphur, which may be separated by water.\n3. Robiquet.— By exposing to a low red heat,\nin a covered crucible, as long as fumes are\ngiven off, a mixture of 2 parts pure kaolin\nand 3 parts each of anhydrous sodium carbon-\nate and sulphur. See also Pigments.\nUsquebaugh. See Liquors.\nValence. See Quantivalenee.\nVanilla Beans, to Pulverize.— Rub\nwell with a little sugar.\nVarnishes and Varnishing.— Varnish is\na solution of resin in oil, turpentine, or alcohol.\nThe oil dries and the other two solvents evap-\norate, in either case leaving a solid transparent\nfilm of resin over the surface varnished. In\nestimating the quality of a varnish the follow-\ning points must be considered\n1. Quickness in drying.\n2. Hardness of film or coating.\n3. Toughness of film.\n4. Amount of gloss.\n5. Permanence of gloss of film.\n6. Durability on exposure to weather.\nThe quality of a varnish depends almost en-\ntirely upon that of its ingredients much skill\nis, however, required in mixing and boiling the\ningredients together. Varnish is used to give\nbrilliancy to painted surfaces, and to protect\nthem from the action of the atmosphere, or\nfrom slight friction. It is often applied to\nplain unpainted wood surfaces in the roofs,\njoinery, and fittings of houses, and to intensify\nand brighten the ornamental appearance of the\ngrain. Also to painted and to papered walls.\nIn the former case, it is sometimes flatted, so\nas to give a dead appearance, similar to that\nof a flatted coat of paint.\nIngredients of Varnish.— Gums are exudations\nfrom trees. At first they are generally mixed\nwith some essential oil they are then soft and\nviscous, and are known as balsams; the oil\nevaporates and leaves the resin, which is solid\nand brittle. Resins are often called gums in\npractice, but a gum, properly speaking, is sol-\nuble in water, and therefore unfit for varnishes,\nwhile resins dissolve only in spirits or oil. Gum\nresins are natural mixtures of gum with resin,\nand sometimes with essential oil found in the\nmilky juices of plants. When rubbed up with\nwater, the gum is dissolved, and the oil and\nresin remain suspended.\nSolvents must be suited to the description of\ngum they are to dissolve. Boiling linseed oil\n(and sometimes other oils, such as rosemary) is\nused to dissolve amber, gum animi, or copal.\nTurpentine for mastic, dammar, and common\nresin. Methylated spirits of wine for lac and\nsandarac. Wood naphtha is frequently used\nfor cheap varnishes; it dissolves the resins\nmore readily than ordinary spirits of wine, but\nthe varnish is less brilliant, and the smell of the\nnaphtha is very offensive; therefore it is never\nemployed for the best work.\nDriers are generally added to varnish in the\nform of litharge, sugar of lead, or white cop-\nperas. Sugar of lead not onl y hardens, but com-\nbines with the varnish. A large proportion of\ndriers injures the durability of the varnish,\nthough it causes it to dry more quickly.\nI. For Body and Luster.\nAmber.\nAnime.\nCopal.\nElemi.\nLac.\nMastic.\nSandarac.\nII. For Odor.— Benzoin.\nIII. For Tinctorial Effect\nAnnatto.\nGamboge.\nSaffron.\nS\nT\nicotrine aloes,\narmeric.\nL-agon s blood.\nRec\nCoc\nlnd\n1 sandal wood.\nhineah\nigo.\nIV. For Color and Body.— asphaltum.\nV. For Toughness and Elasticity.— Caout-\nchouc.\nAmber.— 1. Amber, 1 lb.; melt, add Scio tur-\npentine, \\i lb.; transparent white resin, 2 oz.;","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0583.jp2"},"580":{"fulltext":"Varnishes.\n568\nVarnishes.\nhot linseed oil, lpt,; and afterward oil of tur-\npentine, q. s., as above. Very tough.\n2. (Hard.)— Melted amber, 4 oz.; hot boiled oil,\n1 qt.; as before.\n3. (Pale.)— Very pale and transparent amber, 4\noz.; clarified linseed oil and oil of turpentine,\nof each 1 pt.; as before.\nAmber varnish is suited for all purposes,\nwhere a very hard and durable oil varnish is\nrequired. The paler kind is superior to copal\nvarnish and is often mixed with the latter to\nincrease its hardness and durability. (See Am-\nber.)\n4. Varnish, Black. (Black Amber Varnish.)—\nAmber, 1 lb.; fuse, add hot drying- oil, }4 pt.;\npowdered black rosin and asphaltum (Naples),\nof each 3 oz.; when properly incorporated and\nconsiderably cooled, add oil of turpentine, 1 pt.\nThis is the beautiful black varnish of the coach-\nmakers. It is also fit for metals.\n5. (Ironwork, Black.)— Asphaltum, 48 lb.; fuse,\nadd boiled oil, 10 gal.; red lead and litharge, of\neach 7 lb.; dried and powdered white copperas,\n3 lb.; boil for two hours, then add dark gum\namber (fused), 8 lb.; hot linseed oil, 2 gal.; boil\nfor two hours longer, or till a little of the\nmass, when cooled, may be rolled into pills\nthen withdraw the heat, and afterward thin\ndown with oil of turpentine, 30 gal. Used for\nthe ironwork of carriages and other nice pur-\nposes.\n6. (Black Japan.)— Naples asphaltum, 50 lb.;\ndark gum anime, 8 lb.; fuse, add linseed oil, 12\ngal.; boil, add dark gum amber, 10 lb.; pre-\nviously fused and boiled with linseed oil, 2 gal.;\nadd the driers and proceed as last. Used for\nwood or metals.\n7. Pale Amber Varnish.— Fuse 6 lb. of fine\npicked, very pale, transparent amber in the\ngum pot, and pour in 2 gal. of hot clarified oil.\nBoil it until it strings very strong. Mix with 4\ngal. of turpentine. This will be as fine as body\ncopal, will work free and flow well upon any\nwork it is applied to; it becomes very hard, is\ndurable, and is excellent to mix in conal var-\nnishes, to give them a hard and durable quality.\nAmber varnish will always require a long\ntime before it is ready for polishing.\n8. Tough Amber Varnish.— Amber, V/% lb.;\nmelt, add Scio turpentine, lb.; transparent\nwhite resin, 3 oz.; hot linseed oil, 1}4 pt.; add suf-\nficient oil of turpentine to make of the proper\nconsistency. Very tough.\nAniline Varnishes. 1. These are very useful,\nas the color is intense, even when in a very thin\nfilm. Use alcohol to dissolve the shellac or\nsandarac. Prepare also an alcoholic solution\nof the aniline colors; add this to the varnish.\nWarm the object slightly.\n2. Oollodion can also be used to carry the ani-\nline colors, and gives a very thin coating.\nAniline Black Varnish. An aniline black\nvarnish of recent Parisian production is the\nfollowing Dissolve 6% drm. avoirdupois ani-\nline blue, 1% drm. f uchsine, and 4 drm. naph-\nthaline yellow, in 1 qt. alcohol. The whole is\ndissolved by agitation in less than twelve hours.\nOne application renders an object ebony black;\nthe varnish can be filtered and will never de-\nposit afterward.\nAnti-rust Varnish.— Take the first three in-\ngredients in a pounded condition, and digest\nthem by a regular heat until melted, then add\nthe turpentine very gradually, stirring all the\nwhile. Rosin, 120 parts; sandarac, 180 parts;\ngum lac, 60 parts; essence of turpentine, 120\nparts. The mixture should be digested until\ndissolution, then add rectified alcohol, 180 parts.\nFilter through fine cloth or thick bibulous\npapers, and preserve in well stoppered bottles\nor cases.\nAsphalt Varnish.— 1. Boil coal tar until it shows\na disposition to harden on cooling; this can be\nascertained by rubbing a little on a piece of\nmetal. Then add about 20% of lump asphalt,\nstirring it with the boiling coal tar until all the\nlumps are melted, when it can be allowed to cool\nand kept for use. This makes a very bright\nvarnish for sheet metals, and is cheap and dur-\nable.\n2. Asphalt Varnish for Metals.— Boil ordinary\ntar until on cooling it shows a tendency to\nharden, add about asphaltum shaved fine\nuntil all is melted; then cool.\nAsphalt Varnish for Microscopists. (Car-\npenters—Dissolve y% drm. caoutchouc in min-\neral naphtha, and then add 4 oz. asphaltum,\nusing heat if necessary.\nBalloon Varnish.— 1. Good boiled linseed oil,\nif allowed a sufficient time to dry and harden,\nforms an excellent varnish for balloon cases.\n2. India rubber, 1 lb., cut small; oil of tur-\npentine, 6 lb.; boiled drying oil, 1 gal. Digest\nthe Indian rubber in the turpentine, in a warm\nplace, for a week, frequently shaking the ves-\nsel during the whole time, then place it in a\nwater bath and gradually heat it until the\nsolution be completed; next add the oil, pre-\nviously made warm, gently simmer for five\nminutes, stirring all the while, after which\nclosely cover it over, and when cold strain it\nthrough flannel.\n3. Birdlime, 1 lb.; boiled linseed oil, 3 pt.; tur-\npentine, q. s. Boil the birdlime with 1 pt. of\nthe oil in an iron pot, over a slow fire, for\nabout half an hour, or until the former ceases\nto crackle, then add the rest of the oil, pre-\nviously heated, and again boiled for one hour,\nstirring well all the time, being careful that it\ndoes not boil over, as it is very liable to do so.\nWhen it has boiled sufficiently, may be known\nby its admitting of being drawn into threads\nbetween two knives. As soon as this occurs,\nremove the pot from the fire, and when cooled\na little, add a sufficient quantity of spirits of\nturpentine, warm, to reduce it to a proper\nconsistence, and work it well up.\nThese varnishes are better applied lukewarm\nto the silk, previously stretched out tight. In\nabout twenty-four hours they will dry.\nBamboos, Varnish for.— A varnish prepared\nby dissolving 3 oz. white shellac in 10 fl. oz. of\nmethylated spirits, applied to the bamboo with\na camel s hair brush, will give you a beautiful\ntransparent coating, while showing the natural\ncolor of the wood.\nBasket Varnish\nOrange shellac 8 oz.\nYellow resin 1 oz.\nBenzoin J^ oz.\nBismarck brown 34 oz.\nMethylated spirit 1^ pt.\nVegetable naphtha J^pt.\nBessemer s Varnish.— This consists of a pale oil\ncopal varnish, diluted with about six times its\nvolume of oil of turpentine, the mixture being\nsubsequently agitated with about part of dry\nslaked lime, and decanted after a few days re-\npose. Five parts of the product mixed with 4\nparts of bronze powder forms Bessemer s gold\npaint.\nBlack Varnish.— 1. In an iron pot, over a slow\nfire, boil 45 lb. of foreign asphaltum for at\nleast six hours, and during the same time boil\nin another iron pot 6 gal. of oil which has been\npreviously boiled; during the boiling of the 6\ngal. introduce 6 lb. of litharge gradually, and\nboil until it feels stringy between the fingers;\nthen ladle it into the pot containing the boil-\ning asphaltum. Let both boil until, upon trial,\nit will roll into hard pills; then cool, and mix\nwith 25 gal. of turpentine, or until it is of a\nproper consistence.\n2. Black varnish suitable for covering places\nwhere a japanned surface has been injured or\nscratched: Fine lampblack or ivory black,\nthoroughly mixed with copal varnish. The\nblack must be in fine powder, and it would mix\nthe more readily if made into a pasty mass with\nturpentine.\n3. Black varnish can be made by putting 48\nlb. foreign asphaltum into an iron pot and\nboiling for four hours; during the first two","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0584.jp2"},"581":{"fulltext":"Varnishes.\n569\nVarnishes.\nhours*introduce 7 lb. of ,red lead, 7 lb. litharge,\n3 lb. dried copperas, and 10 gal. boiled oil; add\none 8 lb. run of dark gum with 2 gal. of hot oil.\nAfter pouring the oil and gum, continue the\nboiling two hours, or until it will roll into hard\npills like japan. When cool, thin it off with 30\ngal. of turpentine or until it is of proper con-\nsistence. This varnish is specially adapted for\niron work.\n4. Black Varnish for Coaches.—\nAsphaltum V/% oz.\nAmber 40 oz.\nResin TVs oz.\nDrying linseed oil 1*4 pt.\nMelt together in an iron pot. When partly\ncool, add warm oil of turpentine; 134 pt.\n5. Black Varnish for Coal Buckets.—\nAsphaltum V/i lb.\nLampblack lb.\nResin M lb.\nSpirits of turpentine V qt.\nDissolve the resin and asphaltum in the tur-\npentine; form a paste with the lampblack and\nlinseed oil, q. s.; mix with the other. Apply\nwith a brush.\n6. Black Japan Varnish.\nNaples asphaltum 50 lb\nDark gum anime 8 lb.\nFuse, add 12 gal. linseed oil boil, then add of\ndark gum amber, 10 lb., previously fused and\nboiled in 2 gal. linseed oil; next add q. s. of\ndriers and thin with oil of turpentine.\n7. Black Varnish for Shoe and Harness\nEdges.— Cut in.—\nNinety -eight per cent, alcohol... pt-\nShellac 1)4 oz.\nRosin 1 oz.\nPine turpentine. )4 oz.\nLampblack oz.\nThis varnish may also be applied to cloth or\nwood, where a gloss is desired, after painting.\n8. Black Varnish for Straw Hats.\nBest black sealing wax oz.\nRectified 90$ alcohol 2 oz.\nPowder the sealing wax, and put it with the\n90$ alcohol in a phial; digest them in a sand\nbath, or near a fire till the wax is dissolved; lay\non warm with a fine, soft hair brush before a\nfire or in the sun.\n9. Black Varnish for Zinc— Bottger.— Dis-\nsolve 2 parts copper nitrate and 3 parts cop-\nper chloride (cryst.) in 64 parts water, and add\n8 parts nitric acid.\n10. Puscher.— Dissolve equal parts of potassi-\num chlorate and copper sulphate in 36 times as\nmuch water, warm, and the solution is left to\ncool. Immerse the articles in the solution, and\nwhen black, rinse with water and dry.\n11. Brunswick Black— Black pitch and gas\ntar asphaltum, 25 lb. of each; boil gently for\nfive hours, then add 8 gal. linseed oil litharge\nand red lead, 10 lb. of each; boil, and when\ncooled a little, thin with 20 gal. oil of turpen-\ntine.\n12. Many recipes for making this varnish do\nnot mention the secret, viz., to boil the as-\nphaltum until all the moisture is driven off.\nTake 7 lb. pitch and 7 lb. asphaltum, boil in an\niron pot for seven to ten hours, with frequent\nstirring. When all moisture is out, add 2 gal.\nboiled oil, previously heated; then add 2% lb.\nred lead and 2)4, lb. litharge, and boil for three\nhours, or until some of it will set hard. Then\nlet it cool down, and add 5 gal. turpentine, or as\nmuch as will reduce it to the consistence best\nsuited for your work. This varnish should dry\nin twenty minutes to one hour, according to\nthe state of the atmosphere. You can try\nleaving out the red lead, but add the extra in\nasphaltum, and also vary the quantity of oil.\nIf wanted good and cheap, and twenty-four\nhours will suit, add more oil, less turps.\nMayer.\n13. A brilliant black varnish for iron, stone,\nor wood can be made by thoroughly incorpor-\nating ivory black with common shellac var-\nnish. The mixture should be laid on very thin.\nBut ordinary coal tar varnish will serve the\nsame purpose in most cases quite as well, and\nit is not nearly so expensive.\nBrilliant Varnish, Soft. Sandarac, 6 oz.;\nelemi (genuine), 4 oz.; anime, 1 oz.; camphor,\n\\i oz.; alcohol, 1 qt.\nBody Varnish.— Prep. 1. Finest African copal,\n8 lb.; fuse carefully, add clarified oil, 2 gal.;\nboil gently for four hours and a half, or till\nquite stringy, cool a little and thin with oil of\nturpentine, 314 gal. Dries slowly.\n2. Pale gum copal, 8 lb.; clarified oil, 2 gal.;\ndried sugar of lead, J^ lb.; boil as before, then\nadd oil of turpentine, 3 X A gal., and mix it while\nstill hot with the following varnish: 81b. pale\ngum anime; linseed oil, 2 gal.; dried white cop-\nperas, Mlb-? boil as before and thin with oil of\nturpentine, 3)4 gal.; the mixed varnishes are to\nbe immediately strained into the cans or cis-\ntern.\nBookbinder 1 s Varnish. 1. Pale gum sanda-\nrac, 3 oz.; alcohol, 20 fl. oz.; dissolve by cold\ndigestion and frequent agitation.\n2. Dissolve pale shellac in wood naphtha.\n3. Mastic, 6 oz., in drops; 3 oz. coarsely pounded\nglass, separated from the dust by a sieve; 32\noz. 90$ alcohol. Place the ingredients in a sand\nbath over a fire and let them boil, stirring them\nwell. When thoroughly mixed introduce 3 oz.\nspirits of turpentine, boil for half an hour,\nremove from the fire, cool, and strain through\ncotton cloth.\n4. Three pints of 90$ alcohol, 8 oz. sandarac,\n2 oz. mastic, in drops, 8 oz. shellac, and 2 oz.\nVenice turpentine. Prepare as for No. 1.\nApply lightly on the book with a piece of cot-\nton wool, a small sponge, or a brush.\nVarnish, for Bookbinders, Colorless.— 5. Mr. A.\nSchmidt gives the following directions for mak-\ning these and several other beautiful varnishes\nFor l*/2 lb. good shellac take 2 oz. crj stallized\ncarbonate of soda and M 8 al. water; put the\nwhole in a clean iron or copper vessel of double\nthe capacity, and under constant stirring,\nbring it to boiling over a slow fire, The shellac\nwill dissolve, and if it is intended to make col-\norless French varnish, the solution has to be\nrun through a woolen cloth. For brown book-\nbinders varnish, or a colorless varnish for\nmaps, photographs, etc., the solution has to\nboil for about an hour longer but only sim-\nmering, and then to cool very slowly without\nstirring; better let it stand overnight, and let\nthe fire go out under it. In the morning a\nwax like substance will be found on the sur-\nface of the solution, and the other impurities\nof the shellac as a deposit on the bottom of the\nvessel. The solution is likewise to be run\nthrough a woolen cloth and then filtered.\nTo make a transparent brown varnish— book-\nbinders 1 varnish— this filtered solution has to\nbe precipitated with diluted sulphuric acid\n(1 part acid to 20 parts water), the precipitate\ncollected on a coarse muslin cloth, and washed\nout with cold clear water till it runs through\nwithout taste. Then fill a stone or wooden\nvessel with boiling water, and throw the pre-\ncipitate in it; it will directly soften and stick\ntogether; this half mass has to be kneaded in\nthe hands, doubled up, melted, and drawn out\ntill it assumes a fine silky luster, then drawn\nout to the desired thickness in sticks, like\ncandy, and it is then ready for solution. To\nmake the bookbinders 1 varnish, dissolved part\nof the precipitate in 1)4 parts 95% alcohol. To\nmake the colorless varnish, dissolve part of\nthe precipitate in the same quantity of alcohol.\nAdd 3 drm. lavender oil to each pint. The col-\norless varnish will look like whey, but more\ntransparent.\nBoots, Varnish for.— There is no waterproof","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0585.jp2"},"582":{"fulltext":"Varnishes.\n570\nVarnishes.\nvarnish that does not more or less injure the\nleather.\nBeeswax 18 parts.\nSpermaceti 6 parts.\nOil of turpentine 66 parts.\nAsphalt varnish 5 parts.\nPowdered borax 1 part.\nVine twig, black 5 parts.\nPrussian blue 2 parts.\nNitro benzol 1 part.\nMelt the wax, add powdered borax, and stir\ntill a kind of jelly has formed. In another pan\nmelt the spermaceti, add the ashpalt varnish,\npreviously mixed with oil of turpentine stir\nwell, and add the wax. Lastly, add the color,\npreviously rubbed smooth with a little of the\nwax. Perfume with nitro benzol. Apply in\nsmall quantities, wipe with a cloth, and brush.\nBottle Caps, Varnish for.—\nGamboge 2 parts.\nRuby red shellac 2 parts.\nVenice turpentine 1 part.\nStrong alcohol 20 parts.\nBottles, Varnish, Stoppers for.— Varnish bot-\ntles are best closed with stoppers formed of\ngood and pure wax, or corks may be used which\nhave previously been dipped in molten wax.\nIf corks are employed with no wax coating,\nthey very often stick fast in the bottles, and\nparticles are often removed which render the\nvarnish impure.\nBrass Colored Varnish.— Dissolve 1 oz. each of\npale shellac and gum sandarac in pt. of\n■9056 alcohol.\nBronze for Statuary, Varnish.— Cut best hard\nsoap, 50 parts, into fine shavings; dissolve in 2\nparts water add solution blue vitriol, 15 parts\nin water, 60 parts wash with water, dry slow.\nDissolve in turpentine.\nBronze Varnish for Small Castings.— Ten parts\ndiamond f uchsin and 5 parts Hof mann s methyl\nviolet are dissolved in water or sand bath in\n100 parts alcohol of 95$; then add 5 parts benzoic\nacid, and boil from 5 to 10 minutes, until\nthe whole has acquired a brilliant bronze color.\nThis varnish adheres firmly to all articles,\npossesses a beautiful gloss, and is very durable.\nBrown Hard Spirit Varnish.— 1. Sandarac.\n4oz.; pale seed lac, 2 oz.. elemi, 1 oz.; alcohol,\nlqt.; digest with agitation till dissolved, then\nadd Venice turpentine, 2 oz.\n2. Gum sandarac, 3 lb.; shellac, 2 lb.; recti-\nfied spirit (65 over proof), 2 gal.; dissolve, add\nturpentine varnish, 1 qt.; agitate well and\nstrain. Very fine.\n3. Seed lac and yellow resin, of each V/% lb.;\nrectified spirit, 2 gal.\n4. Gum juniper, 6 oz.; shellac, 6 oz.; salt of\ntartar, J^oz.; Venice turpentine, 1% oz.; and 4\npt. of 90% alcohol, mixed together.\nCabinet Makers 1 Varnish.— Very pale shellac,\n5 lb.; mastic, 7 oz.; alcohol, of 90$, 5 or 6 pt.;\ndissolve in the cold with frequent stirring.\nUsed for French polishing, etc. It is always\nopaque. A similar varnish, made with weaker\nspirit, is used by bookbinders to varnish mo-\nrocco leather book covers.\nCarriage Varnish, Best Pale.— Eight lb. of\nsecond sorted African copal, 2J-6 gal. of\nclarified oil; boil till very stringy. One\nfourth lb. of dried copperas, Ya lb. of\nlitharge, 5^ gal. of turpentine; strained.\nEight lb. of second sorted gum anime, 2^\ngal. of clarified oil. 34 lb. of dried sugar of lead,\n34 lb. of litharge, 5Y gal. of turpentine; mix\nwith the first while hot. This varnish will dry\nhard, if well boiled, in four hours in summer\nand six in winter. As its name denotes, this is\nintended for the varnishing of the wheels,\nsprings, and carriage parts of coaches, chaises,\netc.; also it is that description of varnish which\nis generally sold to and used by house painters\nand decorators, as from its drying quality and\nstrong gloss it suits their general purposes\nwell.\nSecond Carriage Varnish.— Eight lb. second\nsorted gum anime, 2% gal. of fine clarified oil,\n5J4 gal. of turpentine, 34 lb. of litharge, 34 lb.\nof dried sugar of lead, 34 lb. of dried copperas;\nboil and mix as before. When three runs\nare poured into the boiling pot, the regular\nproportion of driers put in, and well boiled,\nthis varnish will dry hard and firm in four\nhours in winter, and in two in summer; it is\nprincipally intended for varnishing dark car-\nriage work or black japan, and is also used by\nhouse painters for dark work.\nQuick Drying Carriage Varnish.— Eight lb. of\nfine pale gum anime, 2 gal. of clarified oil, 33^\ngal. of turpentine; to be boiled four hours.\nThis, after being strained, is put into the two\nformer pots, and well mixed together; its effect\nis to cause the whole to dry quicker and firmer,\nand enable it to take the polish much sooner.\nCanada Balsam Varnish.— Ground Glass, to\nBender Transparent.— Take 4 oz. Canada bal-\nsam and bake in oven until quite brittle\nwhen cooled Dissolve this in 12 oz. benzole in\nwhich 12 oz. mastic has been previously dis-\nsolved.\nChanging Varnish.— To Imitate Gold or Silver.\nPut 5 oz. gum gamboge in 40 oz. spirits of\nturpentine; 134 oz. annatto into 10 oz. spirits\nturpentine; 5 oz. dragon s blood into 40 oz.\nspirits of turpentine; make the 3 mixtures in\nseparate vessels. The mixtures must be kept\nin a warm place and exposed to the sunlight\nfor 2 or 3 weeks. Add together such quantities\nof each mixture as will produce the desired\ncolor.\nChimneys and Stove Pipes, Varnish for.—\nAsphaltum 2 lb., boiled linseed oil 1 pt., oil of\nturpentine 2 qt. Fuse the asphaltum in\nan iron pot, boil the linseed oil, and add while\nhot. Stir well and remove from the fire.\nWhen partially cooled add the oil of turpen-\ntine.\nChinese.— 1. Disolve 1 part of shellac and a\nsmall piece of camphor in 15 parts alcjhol. Let\nthe bottle remain in the sun for 2 days, shaking\nfrequently; then sti ain. After standing, pour\noff the clear portion. 2. Two oz. mastic and\ngum sandarac 20 f 1. oz. strong alcohol dis-\nsolve. Dries in six minutes.\nCollodion.— Add 1 oz. castor oil to 1 qt. collo-\ndion. This is a very useful varnish for varnish-\ning maps, etc.\nColorless Varnish, Luning s.— Dissolve 23^ oz. of\nshellac in 1 pt.90$ alcohol, boil a few minutes with\n5 oz. of well-burnt and recently heated animal\ncharcoal. A small portion of the solution should\nthen be filtered, and if not colorless, more char-\ncoal must be added. When all color is removed\npress the liquor through a piece of silk, and\nafterward filter through fine blotting paper.\nThis kind of varnish should be used in a room\nat least 60° F., perfectly free from dust. It\ndries in a few minutes, and is not liable after-\nward to chill or bloom. It is particularly\napplicable to drawings and prints that have\nbeen sized, and may be advantageously used\nupon oil paintings which are thoroughly hard\nand dry, as it brings out the colors with the\npurest effect. This quality prevents it from\nobscuring gilding, and renders it a valuable\nvarnish for all kinds of leather, as it does not\nyield to the warmth of the hand and resists\ndamp, which subjects leather to mildew. Its\nuseful applications are very numerous, indeed\nto all the purposes of the best hard spirit var-\nnish.\nColorless Varnish for Leather.— Pale shellac,\n5 oz.; borax, 1 oz.; water, 1 pt.; digest nearly at\nthe boiling point, until dissolved, then strain.\nColpins s India Rubber Varnish.— Fuse India\nrubber in a closed vessel for about 3 hours.\nThen remove and stir for about 10 minutes,\nclose and repeat the operation each day untii\nsmall bubbles appear on the surface; then strain.\nCommon Work, Varnish for.— This varnish is\nintended for protecting surfaces against at-\nmospheric exposure. It has been used for coat-\ning wood and iron work with great advantage.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0586.jp2"},"583":{"fulltext":"Varnishes,\n571\nVarnishes.\nTake 3 lb. of resin and powder it, place it in a\ntin can, and add zj4 pt. of spirits of turpentine,\nwell shake, and let it stand, occasionally shak-\ning it for a day or two. Then add of boiled oil\n5 qt., well shake altogether, and allow it to\nstand iu a warm room till clear. The clear por-\ntion is decanted and used, or reduced with\nspirits of turpentine until of the proper con-\nsistency.\nCommon Varnish. Digest shellac, 1 part,\nwith alcohol, 7. or 8 parts.\nComposition Varnish.— Gum copal, 90 lb.; al-\ncohol, 9 gal.; benzine, 10 gal.; and, by process of\nchurning, amalgamate them into varnishJ Then\ntake gum gamboge, 6 lb.; orange aniline, 6 oz.;\nalcohol, 1 gal. When this mixture is thorough-\nly dissolved, filter it into the varnish and mix\nwell together. This composition of materials\nsecures a compound which, in cheapness, hard-\nness of surface obtained by its application, and\nin its adaptability for protecting and embel-\nlishing the surface of walnut and other woods,\nis a valuable substitute for gum shellac varnish.\nThe color may be changed by using for orange\na different shade of aniline.— Mayer andLowen-\nstein.\nConfectioner Varnish for. Take lb. or\nmore of gum benzoine, put it into a bottle and\ncover it with fourth proof alcohol, cork up\ntightly and let it digest for at least two weeks,\nshaking up once or twice a day. After which\ntime you may pour gently off any quantity you\nmay require for present use. It should be the\nthickness of thin syrup; if used too thick, it is\napt to appear in streaks on the work when dry;\nif too thick, dilute it with alcohol. This var-\nnish is perfectly harmless and very fragrant,\nresembling somewhat the odor of vanilla. It\nwill also keep for years, growing better with\nage. It is a nice varnish for all kinds of choco-\nlate work and candies, pulled and clear. It\niorms, when dry, a thin glossy film or skin over\nthem, which prevents the access of the mois-\nture of the surrounding atmosphere, and tends\nto keep them from becoming sticky for a much\nlonger period of time.— British Confectioner.\nCopal Varnish, Quick Drying.— Eight lb. best\nAfrican copal, 2 gal. clarified oil, J4 lb. dried\nsugar* of lead, 3J^ gal. turpentine, boiled\ntill stringy, and mixed and strained; 81b. fine\ngum anime, 2 gal. clarified oil, M lb. white cop-\nperas, 3}£ gal. turpentine; boiled as before; to\nbe mixed, and strained while hot, into the other\npot. These two pots mixed together will dry\nin six hours in winter and in four in summer;\nit is very useful for varnishing old work on\ndark colors.\nWhite Copal Varnish.—\nCopal 4 oz.\nCamphor oz.\nWhite drying oil 3 oz.\nEssential oil of turpentine 2 oz.\nReduee the copal to powder, mix the cam-\nphor and drying oil, then heat on a slow fire,\nand add the oil of turpentine, and strain.\nCopal Varnish.— Dissolve 1 part of cam-\nphor in 12 parts (by weight) of ether; to\nthe solution add 4 parts of clear copal, pre-\nviously powdered fine. Leave the mixture in\na moderately warm place in a well-stoppered\nbottle, frequently agitating until the copal is\npartially dissolved. Then add 4 parts of ab-\nsolute alcohol and 14 of a part of essence of\nturpentine. The result should be a viscid\nliquid, almost homogeneous. If this be set\naside for a few days it will separate into two\nlayers, the lower of which contains the most\ncopal, but the higher stratum will be found to\ngive the most brilliant varnish, although it is\nat the same time as limpid water.\nCopal Varnish with Ammonia.— Grind copal\nto a course powder and pour ammonia over it\nuntil the whole mass is swelled up. Heat this\nto about 100° F., then add alcohol until the\nmixture is of the desired consistency.\nBest Body Copa). Varnish for Coach Makers.\n—Fuse 8 lb. of fine African gum copal add 2\ngal. of clarified oil; boil very slowlv for 4\nor 5 hours, until quite stringy mix off with\n3^ gal. of turpentine; strain off, and pour it\ninto a cistern.\nVarnish, Copal.— 1. Turpentine.— Oil of tur-\npentine, 1 pt.; set the bottle in a water bath,\nand add in small portions at a time, 3 oz. of\npowdered copal that has been previously melt-\ned by a gentle heat, and dropped into water in\na few days decant the clear. Dries slowly, but\nis very pale and durable. Used for pictures,\netc.\n2. Oil.— Pale hard copal, 2 lb.; fuse, add hot\ndrying oil, 1 pt.; boil as before directed, and\nthin with oil of turpentine, 3 pt., 12 oz., or q. s.\n3. Clearest and palest African copal, 8 lb.;\nfuse, add hot and pale drying oil, 2 gal.; boil\ntill it strings strongly, cool a little, and thin\nwith hot rectified oil of turpentine 3 gal., and\nimmediately strain into the store can. Very\nfine. Both the above are used for pictures.\n4. Spirit.— Coarsely powdered copal and glass,\nof each 4 oz. alcohol, of 90%, 1 pt. cam-\nphor, y» oz.; heat it in a water bath so that the\nbubbles may be counted as they rise, observing\nfrequently to stir the mixture when cold de-\ncant the clear. Used for pictures.\n5. Copal melted and dropped into water, 3 oz.;\ngum sandarac, 6 oz.; mastic and Chio turpen-\ntine, of each2^oz.; powdered glass, 4 oz.; al-\ncohol, of 85#, 1 qt.; dissolve by a gentle heat.\nUsed for metal chairs, etc.\nCopal Varnish (Spirit).— 1. Melt in an iron\npan at a slow heat, copal gum, powdered, 8\nparts, and add balsam capivi, previously\nwarmed, 2 parts. Then remove from the fire,\nand add spirits of turpentine, also warmed\nbef oi ehand, 10 parts, to give the necessary con-\nsistence. Gum copal is made more soluble in\nspirits of turpentine by melting the powdered\ncrude gum, and allowing it to stand for some\ntime loosely covered.\n2. Pounded copal, 24 parts spirits of turpen-\ntine, 40 parts camphor, 1 part.\n3. Copal in powder, 16 parts camphor, 2\nparts oil of lavender, 90 parts. Dissolve the\ncamphor in the oil, heat the latter, and stir in\nthe copal in successive portions until complete\nsolution takes place. Thin with sufficient tur-\npentine to make it of proper consistence.\nCotton Cloth, Varnish for (so that it can be\nwritten on).— Apply to the fabric a preparation\nof gum (gum arabic and water) and allow it to\ndry, then press the place with a moderately hot\niron. If the fabric is glazed or starchy, it is\nbest to wash out the starch before applying the\npreparation.\nCrystal Varnish.— 1. Genuine pale Canada\nbalsam and rectified oil of turpentine, equal\nparts; mix, place the bottle in warm water,\nagitate well, set it aside, in a moderately warm\nplace, and in a Aveek pour off the clear. Used\nfor maps, prints, drawings, and other articles\nof paper, and also to prepai e tracing paper\nand to transfer engravings.\n2. Mastic, 3 oz.; alcohol, 1 pt.; dissolve. Used\nto fix pencil drawings.\nDammar Varnish.— Gum dammar, 10 parts;\ngum sandarac, 5 parts; gum mastic, 1 part.\nDigest at a low heat, occasionally shaking,\nwith spirits of turpentine, 20 parts. Add spirits\nof turpentine until of the consistence of\nsyrup.\nDark Varnish for Light Woodwork.— Pound\nup and digest shellac, 16 parts; gum sandarac,\n32 parts gum mastic, 8 parts gum elemi, 8\nparts dragon s blood, 4 parts annatto, 1 part;\nwith white turpentine, 16 parts and alcohol,\n256 parts. Dilute with alcohol if required.\nDavies 1 Varnish.— India rubber shreds, 30 grn.;\nEgyptian asphaltum, 4 oz.; solvent naphtha\n(mineral), 10 oz. Dissolve the India rubber in\nthe naphtha, then add asphaltum, use heat if ne-\ncessary, but look out for fire, better use a water\nbath.\nDead Surf ace Varnish.— Varnishes that leave","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0587.jp2"},"584":{"fulltext":"Varnishes.\n572\nVarnishes.\na dead surface on drying, capable of substitu-\ntion for ground glass, as for glass stereographs,\nand of use in retouching negatives, may be\nmade by mixing solutions of resine with liquids\nin which they are insoluble. A solution of san-\ndarac resin in ether, when mixed with one\nfourth as much benzole, affords an excellent\nimitation of ground glass one of dammar resin\nin benzole, when mixed with ether, also gives\na good dead surface water instead of the ether\nrenders it, at the same time, semi-opaque. A\nmixture of benzole with common negative\nvarnish frequently, but not always, gives a\nbeautiful dead surface. In all cases a great\ndeal depends on the purity of the ingredients.\nIt is recommended to dissolve from 3 to 5 parts\nof sandarac in 48 parts of ether, and to add 24\nparts of benzole or as much as may be neces-\nsary to produce the desired result. The follow-\ning, by Hughes, is said to give a perfectly color-\nless varnish of this kind Ether, 560 grn.; ben-\nzole, 240 grn.; sandarac, 40 grn; Canada balsam,\n10 grn.; the resins are first to be dissolved in the\nether, and the benzole added to the solution.\nDrawings, Varnish for.—l. Put a drop or two\nof acetic acid in the ink, and when the drawing\nis dry varnish with mastic varnish.\n2. Boil parchment cuttings until a size is pro-\nduced.\nDry Plates (Ashman s), Varnish for.—\nCommercial japanner s gold size. 2 parts.\nRefined benzole 2 parts.\nThis should be applied when the plate is thor-\noughly dry but not warm. Drain off the excess\nof varnish and let the plate dry overnight. See\nalso Negative Varnishes, below.\nDull Varnish.— A varnish which does not re-\nflect light is prepared by mixing a solution of\nresin with some liquid in which resin is insol-\nuble. A mixture of 3 to 5 parts of sandarac\ndissolved in 48 parts of ether and 2% parts of\nbenzole resembles ground glass when dry. A\nsolution of dammar resin in benzol mixed with\nether gives a good dull varnish. Water renders\nthe varnish semi-opaque. Hughes recom-\nmends the following receipt\nEther 560 grm.\nBenzol 240 grm.\nSandarac 40 grm.\nCanada balsam 10 grm.\nScience Record, 1874.\nEarthenware, Varnish for.— Equal parts pul-\nverized glass and soda are mixed. The mixture\nis then dried over a good fire and spread upon\nburnt vessels while they are still hot.\nElectrical Varnish. A varnish formed by dis-\nsolving orange shellac in 95$ alcohol is indis-\npensable for all kinds of electrical work, and\nfor finishing wood and metal work. It jnay be\nreadily colored by the addition of pigments.\nFor brown the red and black may be mixed;\nfor purple the red and blue; for yellow, finely\npowdered yellow ocher or chrome yellow may\nbe added; for a dead black varnish, alcohol,\nwith a small percentage of shellac varnish\nadded, mixed with calcined lampblack, answers\nan excellent purpose.\nEngraving on Copper, Varnish for.\nYellow wax 1 oz.\nMastic 1 oz.\nAsphaltum oz.\nMelt, pour into water and form into balls for\nuse. A softer varnish for engravers is made\nwith—\nTallow 1 part.\nYellow wax. 2 parts.\nOr—\nWax 2 oz.\nCommon turpentine 1 drm.\nOlive oil 1 drm.\nEngraver s Stopping-OutVamish.— Take lamp-\nblack and turpentine to make a paste.\nEngraving on Glass, Varnish for.—\n1. Wax 1 oz.\nMastic 3^ oz.\nAsphaltum J4 oz.\nTurpentine drm.\n2. Mastic 15 parts.\nTurpentine 7 parts.\nOil of spike 4 parts.\n3. Asphaltum 1 oz.\nWax 4 oz.\nMastic 2 oz.\nTurpentine 2 drm.\nEngravings and Drawings, to Varnish.— Size\nwith weak isinglass size (1 oz. to the pint of\nwater), give 2 coats, then varnish with mastic\nvarnish.\nEtching Varnish (Lawrence).-*\n1. White wax 2 oz.\nBlack pitch oz.\nBurgundy pitch oz.\nMelt together, add by degrees powdered as-\nphaltum, 2 oz., and boil till a drop taken out on\na plate will break when cold by being bent\ndouble two or three times between the fingers;\nit must then be poured into warm water and\nmade into small balls for use.\n2. Callot s and Florentine Hard Varnish.—\nLinseed oil 4 oz.\nMastic .4 oz.\nMelt together.\n3. Callot s Soft Varnish.—\nLinseed oil 4 oz.\nGum benzoin y% oz.\nWhite wax X oz.\nBoil to\nFans, Varnish for.— Fifteen parts mastic are\ndissolved with 40 parts sandarac in 250 parts of\nalcohol, and 20 parts of Venice turpentine are\nadded.\nFerrotype Varnish.— A varnish may be made\nas follows:\nAlcohol (95$ strong) 50 parts.\nWhite shellac 12 parts.\nTo which add a few drops of oil of lavender.\nFinishing Varnish, to Harden.— A newly var-\nnished carriage is liable to spot. To prevent\nthis, some wash the carriage two or three\ntimes in clean cold water, applied with a sponge\ninstead of using a hose; this will help harden\nthe surface and prevent it, to some extent,\nfrom being injured by the mud or water get-\nting splashed on the job. Never let mud dry\non the surface, and then wash off expecting to\nsee no spots on the varnish. You will certainly\nbe disappointed, and the only way to remedy\nthe evil will be to have it revarnished. Soft\nwater is better than hard water for the wash-\ning of carriages, as the lime which is in the\nhard water is very liable to injure the varnish.\nFlanders Varnish.— Dissolve grain mastic in\nalcohol; this operation is requisite to detach\nthe impurities in the resin. The proportion of\nspirit ought to be sufficient to cover the mas-\ntic, and 34 part more.\nFlexible Varnish.— See also Balloon Varnish\nand India Rubber Varnish.\n1. India rubber (cut small), 1)4 oz.; 20 fl. oz.\nchloroform, ether, or carbon bisulphide digest\nwithout heat until the solution is complete.\n2. Same, only substituting gutta percha for\nIndia rubber.\n3. Dissolve 1 oz. India rubber in 1 pt. benzol by\ndigesting with gentle heat. This varnish dries\nbadly.\n4. Linseed oil, I gal.; 3 oz. each crude zinc sul-\nphate and lead acetate; 8 oz. litharge; boil\nwith constant agitation until it strings well,\nthen cool si o wly, and decant the cool portion.\nIf too thick, thin with quick-drying linseed oil.\nUse great caution in preparing all varnishes\nwhich require the use of such inflammable ma-\nterials as carbon bisulphide..","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0588.jp2"},"585":{"fulltext":"Varnishes.\n573\nVarnishes.\n5. Pure Indian rubbber in shavings, 1 oz.;\nmineral naphtha, 2 lb.; digest at a gentle heat\nin a close vessel till dissolved, and strain.\n6. Indian rubber, 1 oz.; drying oil, 1 qt.; dis-\nsolve by as little heat as possible, employing\nconstant stirring, then strain.\n7. Linseed oil, 1 gal.; dried white copperas and\nsugar of lead, of each 3 oz.; litharge, 8 oz.; boil\nwith constant agitation till it strings well, then\ncool slowly and decant the clear. If too thick,\nthin it with quick-drying linseed oil. The\nabove are used for balloons, gas bags, etc.\nFlowers, Varnish for.— The following varnish\nis recommended for coating the stalks of\nflowers for the preservation of their color and\ngeneral character\nIsinglass\nConcentrated glycerine\n.11 oz.\n9 oz.\nThe isinglass to be softened by first soaking\nit in cold water, and then dissolved in the gly-\ncerine by digestion and agitation with the lat-\nter heated to 212° Fah. over a water bath.\nWhen properly prepared this varnish is color-\nless, and when cold resembles rubber in all but\ncolor. Another varnish recommended for this\npurpose i6 prepared from—\nBleached gutta percha 1 oz.\nDeodorized benzole. 7 oz.\nThe gutta percha is cut into fine shreds and\ngradually added to and agitated with the sol-\nvent kept hot or (warm) over a sand bath away\nfrom fire. The whole flower may be dipped\ninto this varnish, shaken, and exposed to the\nair to dry. Another preparation suggested for\nthis purpose is plain collodion diluted J^$ and\nmixed with 2% of camphor, also dissolved in a\nsmall quantity of ether and alcohol.\nGilt Articles, Varnish for.— Gum lac, 125 parts;\ngamboge, 125 parts; dragon s blood, 125 parts;\nannatto, 125 parts; saffron, 32 parts. Dissolve\neach resin in 1,000 parts, by measure, of absolute\nalcohol; 2 separate mixtures must be made\nwith the dragon s blood and annatto, in 1,000\nparts of such alcohol; and a proper proportion\nof each should be added with the gamboge to\nthe varnish, according to the shade of color\nrequired.\nVarnish for Imitating Gilding.— A very per-\nfect imitation of gilding on brass and bronze\narticles, it is said, may be made by means of a\nvarnish composed of 80 grn. of gum lac, 20 grn.\nof dragon s blood, 5 grn. of turmeric, and 1,660\ngrn. of acohol. The metal should be brushed\nwith the varnish in all directions, by means\nof a sponge, and then immediately warmed\nover a gentle charcoal fire. The surface at first\nwill appear dead, but will soon resemble the\nfinest gilding. The varnish should be kept in\nwell-corked bottles.\nGlass, Varnish for.—l. Dissolve tragacanth in\nwhite of an egg beaten up to a froth. Allow it\nto stand for 24 hours.\n2. Pulverize a quantity of gum adragant, and\nlet it dissolve for 24 hours in the Avhite of\neggs, well beaten up; then rub it gently on the\nglass with a soft brush. Not recommended.\nGlass Varnish.— 1. A name applied to a solu-\ntion of sodium silicate, or water glass.\n2. Fuse together 15 parts of powdered quartz\n(or of fine sand), 10 parts of potash, and 1 of\ncharcoal. Pulverize the mass, and expose it for\nsome days to the air: treat the whole with cold\nwater, which removes the foreign salts, etc.\nBoil the residue in 5 parts of water until it\ndissolves. It is permanent in the air, and not\ndissolved by cold water. Used to protect wood,\netc from fire.\nGlobes, Varnishing.— Varnish them with white\nhard varnish. It would be advisable to touch\nthe chafed places up first with a little gum\nwater, in which a little sugar candy is put, be-\nfore revarnishing, to keep the paper from ab-\nsorbing the varnish.\n1. Gold Varnish.—\nShellac 16 parts.\nGum sandarac 3 parts.\nMastic 3 parts.\nCrocus 1 part.\nGum gamboge 2 parts.\nAll bruised, with alcohol, 144.\n2. Seed lac 8 parts.\nSandarac 8 parts.\nMastic 8 parts.\nGamboge 2 parts.\nDragon s blood 1 part.\nWhite turpentine 6 parts.\nTurmeric 4 parts.\nBruised, with alcohol, 120.\n3. Turmeric 1 drm.\nGamboge 1 drm.\nOil turpentine 2 pt.\nShellac 5 oz.\nSandarac 5 oz.\nDragon s blood 7 drm.\nThin mastic varnish 8 oz.\nDigest with occasional agitation, for four-\nteen days, in a warm place, then set aside to\nfine, and pour off the clear.\n4. Pulverize 1 drm. of saffron and drm. of\ndragon s blood, and put them into 1 pt. 90%\nalcohol add 2 oz. of gum shellac and 2 drm. of\nsocotrine aloes dissolve the whole by gentle\nheat. Yellow painted work varnished with\nthis mixture will appear almost equal to gold.\nGold Frames, Varnish for Restoring Whitened\nGerman.— Reduce 30 grn. gamboge and oz.\ndragon s blood to coarse powder, and add to\n30 grn. turmeric powder, and 2^ oz. each of\nshellac and sandarac. Place in a bottle with 1\npt. turpentine, and, keeping it in a warm\nplace for 14 days, shake at intervals, filter,\nand add 4 oz. mastic varnish. This is to be ap-\nplied with a brush to metal coated frames.\nGreenhouses, Varnish for. Mix together 6 oz.\nfinely grated cheese, 3 oz. slaked lime, and 6 oz.\nboiled linseed oil. Mix, and gradually add b oz.\neach of the whites and yelks of eggs; liquefy\nthis mixture by heat. Though the ingredients\nof this varnish are somewhat peculiar, it is said\nto produce an excellent transparent varnish.\nGround Glass Varnish.—\nSandarac 90 grn.\nMastic 20 grn.\nEther 2 oz.\nBenzole }4 to V/% oz.\nThe proportion of the benzole added deter-\nmines the nature of the matt obtained.\nGuaiacum Varnish.— Gum guaiacum, 2 oz.;\nshellac, 2 oz.; methylated spirit, 10 oz. Powder\nthe gum, dissolve in the spirit, filter, add the\nshellac. Keep in jar surrounded by warm water\nuntil dissolved.\nGun Barrels, Varnishes for.— To make a good\nvarnish for gun barrels, take-\nShellac V4 oz.\nDragon s blood 3 drm.\nRectified spirit 1 qt.\nApply after the barrels are browned.\nGun Stocks, Varnish for.— Five oz. shellac, Y 2\noz. sandarac, Venice turpentine, 1 drm.; alcohol,\n2qt.\nGutta Percha Varnish. Clean J4 lb. gutta\npercha in warm water from adhering impuri-\nties, dry well, dissolve in 1 lb. rectified resin oil,\nand add 2 lb. linseed oil varnish, boiling- hot.\nHats (Straw), Varnish for— Dissolve 1 oz. seal-\ning wax in 4 oz. strong alcohol. Digest with\nheat over a sand bath.\nHair Varnish— One part fine chopped hog s\nbristles, drying oil, 10 parts; dissolve by heat.\nUsed to give the appearance of horse hair to\ncloth.\nHare s Colorless, for Photograplis. Dissolve\nshellac by the aid of heat in 8 parts water and 1\npart pearlash. Precipitate by chlorine and\ndissolve in alcohol.\nHarness Varnish— 1. Isinglass, 1 oz.; indigo, 1","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0589.jp2"},"586":{"fulltext":"Varnishes.\n574\nVarnishes.\noz.; logwood, 1 lb.; best glue, 1 lb.; soft soap, 8\noz.; vinegar, 2 qt.; mix by heat and strain.\n2. Alcohol, 2 gal.; white turpentine, 3 lb.; shel-\nlac, 3 lb.; Venice turpentine, y% pt. When the\nresins are all dissolved, add a little olive oil,\nand color, if desired, with lampblack.\nFrames, Varnishing of.—\nNinety per cent alcohol 1 pt.\nSandarac 2 oz.\nMastic (in drops) 1 oz.\nShellac 2 oz.\nVenice turpentine oz.\nPlace the ingredients on sand bath, let boil,\nstirring well. When well mixed, add 1 Oz. spir-\nits of turpentine, boil y% hour, let cool, and\nstrain through cotton cloth, applying the same\nto frame with a brush.\nFrames, Dead Ground Varnish for Imitation,\netc.— Dissolve 1 lb. of shellac in a little alcohol,\nand 1 lb. of whiting and enough alcohol to\nmake 1 gal. of varnish.\nFrames for Hot-Be s.\nPulverized white cheese 4 oz.\nSlaked lime 2 oz.\nBoiled linseed oil 4 oz.\nMix, and add 4 oz. each of whites and yelks\nof eggs, and liquefy the mixture by heat.\nThis curious mixture is said to produce a pli-\nable and transparent varnish.\nFurniture Varnish.\n1. White wax 6 oz.\nOil of turpentine 1 pt.\nDissolve by a gentle heat. Used to polish\nwood by friction. See Cabinet Makers 1 and\nCopal Varnishes.\n2. Shellac, lj^j lb.; naphtha, 1 gal.; dissolve, and\nit is ready without filtering.\n3. Shellac, 12 oz.; copal, 3 oz. (or an equivalent\nof varnish); dissolve in 1 gal. of naphtha.\n4. Shellac 1)4 lb.\nSeed lac 4 oz.\nSandarac. 4 oz.\nMastic 2 oz.\nNinety per cent alcohol 1 gal.\nDissolve.\n5. Shellac 2 lb.\nBenzoin 4 oz.\nSpirit 1 gal.\n6. Shellac 10 oz.\nSeed lac 6 oz.\nSandarac 6 oz.\nCopal varnish 6 oz.\nBenzoin 3 oz.\nNaphtha... 1 gal.\nTp darken, benzoin and dragon s blood are\nused turmeric and other coloring matters are\nalso added; and to make it lighter it is neces-\nsary to use bleached lac, though some endeavor\nto give this effect by adding oxalic acid to the\ningredients; it, like gum arabic, is insoluble\nin good spirit or naphtha. For all ordinary pur-\nposes the first form is best and least trouble-\nsome, while its appearance is equal to any\nother.\nWhite Furniture Varnish— White wax, 6 oz.;\noil of turpentine, 1 pt.; dissolve by a gentle\nheat. Or white wax, 6 parts; petroleum, 48\nparts; applied to the work while warm, allowed\nto cool, then polished by rubbing with a coarse\ncloth.\nFurniture, to Varnish.— First make the work\nquite clean; then fill up all knots or blemishes\nwith cement of the same color; see that the\nbrush is clean, and free from loose hairs; then\ndip the brush in the varnish, stroke it along\nthe wire raised across the top of the varnish\npot, and give the work a thin and regular coat;\nsoon after that another, and another, always\ntaking care not to pass the brush twice in the\nsame place; let it stand to dry in a moderately\nwarm place, that the varnish may not chill.\nWhen the work has had about 6 or 7 coats, let\nit get quite hard (which prove by pressing the\nknuckles on it if it leaves a mark, it is not\nhard enough); then with the first three fingers\nof the hand rub the varnish till it chafes, and\nproceed over that part of the work intended to\nbe polished, in order to take out all the streaks\nor partial lumps made by the brush; then give\nit another coat, and let it stand a day or two to\nharden.\nImpermeable Varnish. Boiled oil, 180 parts;\nfinely powdered litharge, 6 parts; genuine bees-\nwax, 5 parts. Boil until sufficiently thick and\nstringy, then pour off the clear.\nSee Waterproof Varnishes below.\nIndia Rubber Varnish. 1. Two oz. India rub-\nber finely divided, placed in a phial and digest-\ned in a sand bath, with 34 lb. of camphene and\nM oz. of naphtha. When dissolved add 1 oz. of\ncopal varnish, which renders it more durable.\n2 Digest in a wide mouthed glass bottle 2 oz.\nof India rubber in shavings, with 1 lb. of oil of\nturpentine, during two days, without shaking;\nthen stir up with a wooden spitula. Add an-\nother pound of oil of turpentine, and digest,\nwith frequent agitation, until all is dissolved.\nMix Vyi lb. of this solution with 2 lb. of white\ncopal oil varnish, and V/% lb. of boiled linseed\noil; shake and digest in a sand bath until they\nhave united into a good varnish.\n3. Four oz. India rubber in fine shavings dis-\nsolved in a covered jar by means of a sand bath\nin 2 lb. of crude benzole, and then mixed with 4\nlb. of hot linseed oil varnish and y% lb. of oil of\nturpentine. Dries well.\nInflexible.— Shellac, 4 oz.; wood naphtha, 1 pt.;\nlampblack q. s to color; dissolve.\nInsidating Varntsltes.—l. Put 1 oz. shellac\ninto a wide mouthed 8 oz. phial containing 5\noz. of well rectified wood naphtha. Close the\nbottle with a cork, and let it stand in a warm\nplace until perfectly dissolved. Shake the mix-\nture frequently and pass the fluid through a\npaper filter; add rectified naphtha to the solu-\ntion from time to time in such quantities as\nwill enable it to percolate freely through the\nfilter. Change the filter when necessary.\n2. For Silk Covered Wire. Mix 6 oz. boiled\nlinseed oil and 2 oz. rectified spirits of turpen-\ntine.\n3. For Large Coils.— Cotton covered wires are\nsteeped in melted paraffine, to increase their\ninsulation. Large electro magnet coils have a\ndouble, covering of cotton, and the outer layer\nis coated with a thick varnish of shellac dis-\nsolved in alcohol.\nRed Varnish for Wood, etc. Sealing wax\ndissolved in alcohol, and painted on with a\nbrush, in successive thin layers, say four or five.\nFor Galvanometer Coils. Gum copal dis-\nsolved in ether, painted over each layer of\nwire, and dried on a stove.\nIron Work, Varnish for.— Dissolve in about 2\nlb. tar oil, lb. asphaltum, and a like quantity\nof pounded resin, mix hot in an iron kettle,\ncare being taken to prevent any contact witn\nthe flame. When cold the varnish is ready for\nuse. This varnish is for outdoor wood and iron\nwork.\nIron Work, Black.— Put 48 lb. of foreign as-\nphaltum into an iron pot, and boil for four\nhours; during the first two hours introduce 7\nlb. of red lead, 7 lb. of litharge, 3 lb. of dried\ncopperas, and 10 gal. of boiled oil; add lb.\nrun of dark gum, with 2 gal. hot oil. After\npouring the oil and gum, continue the boiling\ntwo hours, or until it will roll into hard pills,\nlike japan. When cool, thin it off with 30 gal.\nof turpentine, or until it is of a proper consist-\nence.\nItalian Varnish.— 1. Boil Scio turpentine till\nbrittle, powder, and dissolve in oil of turpen-\ntine.\n2. Canada balsam and clear white rosin, of\neach 6 oz.: oil of turpentine, 1 qt.; dissolve.\nUsed for prints, etc.\nIron and Steel, Black Varnish for.— Boil sul-\nphur in turpentine, apply with a brush and","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0590.jp2"},"587":{"fulltext":"Varnishes.\n575\nVarnishes.\nafter heating-, the iron becomes of an intense\nand brilliant black.\nJapan Varnish.— Take 12 lb. Naples asphal-\ntum and 2 lb. dark gum anime, melt it, and\nboil for two hours with 3 gal. linseed oil. Then\nboil 2 lb. dark amber with gal. linseed oil,\nadd the two together, and boil two hours\nlonger, till the mass when cooled is plastic like\nputty. This is afterward dissolved in 7 or 8\ngal. of turpentine, and makes a black japan f or\nwood or meta.o See Japanning,\nJapanese. Fifteen parts of copal iand 1\npart of camphor are dissolved iu 60 parts oil of\nturpentine and 15 parts oil of lavender are\ngradually added.\n2. Japanese Varnish, Black.— One part of as-\nphaltum is dissolved in 50 parts boiled oil, and 2\nparts burnt umber are added. Dissolve the as-\nphaltum in a portion of the oil, then add the\number, which has been previously ground, in\nthe oil add the remainder of the oil and cool;\nthin with oil of turpentine.\n3. Twenty-five parts of shellac are dissolved\nin 100 parts wood alcohol.\n4. Kirstein.—\nMastic 10 parts.\nOil of lavender 4 parts.\nCamphor V£ part.\nSandarac 26 parts.\nVenice turpentine 2 parts.\nEther 3 parts.\nAlcohol 20 parts.\nBy weight. The ingredients should be mac-\nerated for two or three weeks, or until they\nare all dissolved. This varnish dries quickly,\nand is colorless, smooth and shining.\nLaoels, Varnish /or.— 1. Dissolve 1 oz. cam-\nEhor, 2 oz. resin, 4 oz. sandarac, in 24 oz. alco-\nol.\n2. A very satisfactory varnish is made with\nequal parts of Canada balsam and turpentine.\nThe labels should first receive a thin coating of\nmucilage, which must be dried before the var-\nnish is applied.\n3, Sardarac ..53 parts.\nMastic 22 parts.\nCamphor 1 part.\nLavender oil 8 parts.\nVenice turpentine 4 parts.\nEther 6 parts.\nAlcohol 40 parts.\nAll by weight.\nMacerate the ingredients for several weeks\nuntil fully dissolved. The result is a limpid,\ncolorles^, brilliant varnish, which dries quickly\nand is not too brittle.— Arch, de Pharm.\n4. African copal 60 grm.\nPowdered glass 60 grm.\nCamphor 15 grm.\nEther 250 grm.\nAbsolute alcohol 60 grm.\nReduce tne copal to fine powder, and mix the\nglass with it; place both in a 500 grm. bottle\nwith the camphor and the ether, close well, and\nset aside for a month, shaking occasionally.\nAt the end of this time add the alcohol, and,\nafter shaking well, set aside for fourteen days;\nthen pour off the clear portion of the varnish.\nBefore using this varnish it is advisable to size\nthe paper surface with a solution of isinglass in\nspirit, 1 part, and water, 3 parts.\n5. The best varnish for labels is simply melted\nparaffin. Use it as hot as possible, so as to ap-\nply only a very thin coat by means of a flat fine\nbrush. It may be well to place the bottles be-\nfore on a warm place. In place of having to\nwait several hours or a day to dry, as with\nother varnishes, this application is dry when\ncold, thus in a minute or so, and the bottle ready\nfor use.\nLac Varnish.— 1. Seed lac, 8 oz.; alcohol, 1 qt.;\ndigest in a close vessel in a warm situation for\nthree or four days, then decant and strain.\nHighly recommended.\n2. Substitute lac bleached by chlorine for seed\nlac. Both are very tough, hard and durable,\nthe last almost colorless. Used for pictures,\nmetal, wood or leather.\nLac Water Varnish.\nPale shellac 5 oz.\nBorax l oz.\nWater l p t.\nDigest at nearly the boiling point till dis-\nsolved, then strain. An excellent vehicle for\nwater colors, inks, etc., and a varnish for prints\nis made thus of bleached lac. When dry, it is\ntransparent and waterproof.\nLeather, Varnish for Fastening to Met al.— Dis-\nsolve 1 oz. gum arabic in water and an equal\namount of isinglass in brandy.\nLeather, Flexible Varnish for.\n1. Burnt umber 2 oz.\nAsphaltum 1 oz.\nLinseed oil 1 qt.\nDissolve the asphaltum with heat in a little\nof the oil, then add the umber ground in the\noil; mix, add the rest of the oil; boil, and when\ncool, thin with turpentine.\n2. Immerse a sheet of paper in a solution of\ngelatine, then dry and soak the paper in a solu-\ntion of tannic acid. The gelatine will be con-\nverted into a kind of varnish.\nBlacK Leather Varnish. 1. Durable leather\nvarnish is composed of boiled linseed oil, in\nwhich a drier, such as litharge, has been boiled.\nIt is colored with lampblack. This varnish is.\nused for making enameled leather.\n2. Shellac 12 parts.\nWhite turpentine 5 parts.\nGum sandarac 2 parts.\nLampblack 1 part.\nSpirits of turpentine 4 parts.\nAlcohol 96 parts.\nPatent Leather. Patent leather cannot be\nprepared on a small scale and all attempts of the\namateur will probably end in failure.\n1. The first coat varnish is prepared as fol-\nlows: Prussian blue (containing a trace of\nalumina), 5 oz drying oil, 1 gal.: boil to the con-\nsistency of single size, and when cold, grind\nwith a little vegetable black. The second coat\nis like the first, except that pure Prussian blue\nis used. The third coat has the oil boiled longer\nand more of the blue and lampblack is added.\n2. The last coat is the same except that it\nmust contain lb. pure Prussian blue and J4\nlb. of pure vegetable black per gal.\nLe Blond s Varnish.— Heat 1 lb. balsam of co-\npaiba in a sand bath, then add 4 oz. copal, 1 oz.\neach day. The copal must have been previously\nfused and powdered.\nLinseed Oil Varnish.— Boil linseed oil, 60 parts,\nwith litharge, 2 parts; white vitriol, 1 part; each\nfinely powdered, until all water is evaporated.\nThen set by. Or, rub up borate of manganese,\n4 parts, with some of the oil, then add linseed\noil, 3,000 parts, and heat to boiling.\nLithographs and Drawings. Dextrine, 20\nparts; alcohol, 5 parts; water, 20 parts. Give a\ncouple of coats of starch paste, then varnish.\nLithographic Varnish.— Put 2 qt. of the best\nlinseed oil into a saucepan large enough to\nhold 1 gal. The lid should have a long handle,\nso that it may be put on the vessel with safety\nwhile the contents are burning. Set it on a\nclear fire until white fumes arise. Apply a\nlighted paper occasionally until these fumes\ncatch fire and burn. It must now be watched\ncarefully, so that the flame shall not become un-\nmanageable. If the flame goes down a little\nit may be increased by stirring with an iron\nrod. If it shows a tendency to rise too high, it\nmay be removed from the fire, when it will still\ncontinue to burn. If it rises too high and\nthreatens to become dangerous, the lid must\nbe put on, when the flame, being deprived of\nthe access of air, will be extinguished. If the\nflame has been very high, the lid should be kept","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0591.jp2"},"588":{"fulltext":"Varnishes.\n576\nVarnishes.\non long- enough to allow the whole of the\noil to cool down a little. The oil is\nburned until it becomes I less. A thick slice of\nbread is now put in and moved about with a\nfork until it is browned. It is then allowed to\nburn a little more, it being set on the fire again\nto revive the flame if the latter has become\ndull. A second slice is now put in and browned\nas before. This proceeding is said to free the\noil from its more greasy particles. One-fourth\nof the oil may now be taken away. If, on be-\ncoming cold, it is of a syrupy nature, it may be\nset aside for thin varnish. The rest having\nbeen burned again for a short time, y$ part is\ntaken away. This is medium varnish. The re-\nmainder is again burned and set aside for\nstrong varnish. The fourth portion is again\nburned, and when cold should be thick and\nropy. It is necessary to take every precaution\nto guard against accident.\nMachinery, Asphaltum Varnish.— First paint\nthe articles in a japan color such as the follow-\ning:\nAsphaltum 3 oz.\nBoiled oil 4 qt.\nBurnt umber 8 oz.\nMix by heat, and when cooling, thin with tur-\npentine. Then coat them with a suitable trans-\nparent or light varnish.\nMahogany.— 1. Sorted gum anime, 8 lb.; clarified\noil, 3 gal.; litharge and powdered dried sugar of\nlead, of each 34 lb.; boil till it strings well, then\ncool a little, thin with oil of turpentine, 5J^\ngal., and strain.\n2. Put in a bottle 2 oz. gum sandarac, 1 oz.\nshellac, oz. gum bengamin, 1 oz. Venice tur-\npentine and a pt. of 90$ alcohol. Color red with\ndragon s blood or yellow with saffron. Stand\nin a warm spot till gum dissolves, when strain\nfor use.\nMaps, Prints, etc., Varnish for. 1. Gum\nmastic, 5 oz.; gum sandarac, 2 oz.; gum cam-\nphor, 1 oz.; alcohol, 95°, 16 oz.\n2. Balsam of Canada, 2 oz.; spirits of turpen-\ntine, 4 oz. The paper should first be sized with\na solution of isinglass, and dried before apply-\ning the varnish.\n3. Use Canada balsam or dammar varnish.\nThe principal trouble will be in removing the\nold wax. The paper must be perfectly dry.\n4. Mounted maps are sized with thin white\nglue and varnished with mastic.\n5. A good varnish for paper and maps is\nmade with gum mastic, 6 parts; sandarac, 3\nparts dissolved in a mixture of 3 parts turpen-\ntine and 32 parts of alcohol. These ingredients,\nwith the exception of the turpentine, are placed\nin a copper vessel tinned inside, situated in a\nbath of hot water, and are stirred for several\nhours until the gums are dissolved; the tur-\npentine is then added, and the stirring con-\ntinued an hour longer, after which strain\nthe varnish and set it aside for use.\nVarnishing Paper Diagrams and Maps.— The\nfirst and most essential operation is the proper\nsizing of the paper, as, if this be imperfectly\ndone, almost any kind of varnish will pene-\ntrate the paper so as to make oil spots. Glue\nwater of the proper consistency is the best\nprotective against the absorption of the var-\nnish. It should be of the right strength, how-\never. If, after being dried, it cracks in bending\na corner of the paper, it was not diluted\nenough. When dry, the map is varnished with\na solution of mastic, sandarac, or some other\ncolorless resin in turpentine or alcohol, or a\nmixture of both; experience shows the best\nconsistency in order to lay it on evenly with a\nbrush. In cold weather it requires more of the\nsolvent.\nMastic Varnish.— Picture Varnish, Turpen-\ntine Varnish.— 1. Fine. Very pale and picked\ngum mastic, 5 lb.; glass pounded as small as\nbarley, and well washed and dried, 2^4 lb.; rec-\ntified turpentine, 2 gal.; put them into a clean\n4 gal. stone or tin bottle, bung down secure- I\nly, and keep rolling it backward and forward\npretty smartly on a counter or any other solid\nplace for at least 4 hours when, if the gum is\nall dissolved, the varnish may be decanted,\nstrained through muslin into another bottle,\nand allowed to settle. It should be kept for 6\nor 9 months before use, as it thereby gets both\ntougher and clearer.\n2. Second Quality.— Mastic, 8 lb.; turpentine,\n4 gal.; dissolve by a gentle heat, and add pale\nturpentine varnish, gal.\n3. Gum mastic, 6 oz oil of turpentine, 1 qt.;\ndissolve.\nMastic varnish is used for pictures, etc.; when\ngood, it is tough, hard, brilliant, and colorless.\n4. One pt. spirits of turpentine and 10 oz.\nof the clearest gum mastic. Set it in a sand\nbath till it is all dissolved, then strain it through\na fine sieve, and it is ready for use if too thick,\nthin with spirit of turpentine.\nMetals, Varnish for.—\n1. Copal 1 part.\nAlcohol 2 parts.\n2. Copal 1 part.\nOil rosemary 2 or 3 parts.\nAlcohol\nApply hot.\nVarnish for Iron and Steel.— 3. Dissolve in\nalcohol-\nMastic 10 parts.\nCamphor 5 parts.\nSandarac 15 parts.\nElemi 5 parts.\nApply cold.\nVarnish for Polished Metal.— 1. Take bleached\nshellac, pounded in a mortar; place the bruised\nfragments into a bottle of alcohol until some\nshellac remains undissolved; agitate the bottle\nand contents frequently and let the whole stand\ntill clear; pour off the clear fluid. This forms the\nvarnish. Warm the metal surface, and coat with\na camel hair brush. If not perfectly transpar-\nent, warm the varnished surface before a fire\nor in an open oven until it becomes clear.\nCommon orange shellac answers equally well,\nand for large surfaces even better, as it is more\nsoluble than the bleached variety, and coats\nmore perfectly, but care must be taken not to\nuse the varnish insufficiently diluted. 2. Digest 1\npart of bruised copal in 2 parts of absolute al-\ncohol; but as this varnish dries too quickly, it is\npreferable to take-\nCopal 1 part.\nOil of rosemary 1 part.\nAbsolute alcohol 2 or 3 parts.\nThis gives a clear varnish as limpid as water.\nIt should be applied hot, and when dry it will\nbe found hard and durable.\nMordant Varnish.—\n1. Mastic lj^j oz.\nGum gamboge oz.\nSandarac V/% oz.\nTurpentine oz. in\nSpirits of turpentine 9 oz.\nA very simple mordant is made by dissolving\na little honey in thick glue. It heightens the\ncolor of gold, and the leaf adheres well.\n2. Spirits of turpentine 9 oz.\nSandarac V/% oz.\nGum gamboge oz.\nMastic 114 oz.\n3. In 12 oz. spirits of turpentine dissolve 2 oz.\neach of mastic and sandarac, 1 oz. of gamboge,\nand y% oz. of turpentine.\nNegative Varnish.—\n1. Sandarac 4 oz.\nAlcohol 28 oz.\nMl of lavender 3 oz.\nChloroform 5 drm.\n2. White hard varnish 15 oz.\nMethylated alcohol 25 oz.\nThis will be found a good and cheap varnish","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0592.jp2"},"589":{"fulltext":"Varnishes.\n577\nVarnislies.\nif durability is not required, as it is easily\nrubbed up for retouching upon, and easily\ncleaned off. Very suitable for enlarged nega-\ntives that are not to be retained.\n3. Sandarac 90 oz.\nTurpentine 36 oz.\nOil of lavender 10 oz.\nAlcohol 500 oz.\nThis may b e rubbed down with powdered\nresin, and gives a splendid surface for retouch-\ning:\n4. Sandarac 2 I oz.\nSeed lac 1 to \\y% oz.\nCastor oil 3 drm.\nOil of lavender \\y drm.\nAlcohol 18 fl. oz.\n5. Best orange shellac 114 oz.\nMethylated alcohol 1 pt.\nKeep in a warm place until dissolved; then\nadd a large teaspoonful of whiting or prepared\nchalk; set aside to clear, and then decant. This\nis specially recommended for gelatine nega-\ntives.\n6. Bleached lac 30 parts.\nMastic 10 parts.\nVenetian turpentine 1 part.\nRectified alcohol 250 parts.\nThe negative must be warmed.\n7. Bleached shellac, 3 oz., dissolved in 24 oz.\nalcohol filter when dissolved, which takes one\nor two days, then add gum sandarac, 1 oz.;\nessential oil lavender, 1% oz.; filter again and\nbottle for use. Formula of M. Carey Lea. Said\nto be excellent.\nNegative Retouching Varnish. See Retouch-\ning Varnish below.\nMatt Varnish.\n1. Gum mastic 40 grn.\nGum sandarac 160 grn.\nMethylated spirit 4 oz.\nBenzol lj^ oz.\nBlack Matt Varnish.—\n2. Gum mastic 50 grn.\nGum sandarac 200 grn.\nMethylated ether. 1)4 oz.\nBenzol J^ oz.\n3. A very fine varnish is that recommended\nby M. Leon Vidal. It is composed of sandarac,\n18 parts; mastic, 4 parts; ether, 200 parts; benzol,\n80 to 100 parts. See that the glass is perfectly\nclean.\nMechanics, Varnish for. Rosin, 5 parts\ndragon s blood, 1 part gamboge, 1 part gutta\npercha, 2 parts shellac, 1 part volatile tar oil,\n40 parts. This lacquer is very useful, and is\nlargely used.\nMetal Surf aces, Varnish for.— To make alco-\nholic lacquers or varnishes adhere more com-\npletely to polished metal surfaces, 1 part bor-\nacic acid should be added to 200 parts of var-\nnish. This composition will adhere so firmly\nand become so completely glazed as to be re-\nmoved only with difficulty. Be careful not to\nadd too much of the boracic acid, as it injures\nthe gloss in that case.— The Metal Worker.\nMetallic— One lb. of grain tin is melted with\n4 oz. bismuth add 4 oz. mercury, and stir till\ncold. Now grind it very fine with varnish or\nwhite of egg. This is sometimes called var-\nnisher s amalgam.\nMetals,GreenVarnishfor.—l. Dissolve sandarac\nin very strong potash lye until the lye will dis-\nsolve no more. Precipitate, after diluting\nwith water, with copper acetate. The green\nprecipitate which will now be formed is dis-\nsolved in oil of turpentine after having been\nwashed and thoroughly dried.\n2. To thin copal varnish add 5 parts Chinese\nblue and 10 parts potassium chromate.\nMachinery, Varnish for Foundry Patterns\nand. A varhisia has been patented in Germany\nfor the above purpose, which, it is claimed, dries\nas soon as put on, gives the patterns a smooth\nsurface, thus insuring an easy slip out of the\nmould, and which prevents the pattern from\nwarping, shrinking, or swelling, and is quite\nimpervious to moisture.\n1. This varnish is prepared in the following\nmanner: 30 lb. shellac, 10 lb. Manila copal, and\n10 lb. Zanzibar copal are placed in a vessel,\nwhich is heated externally by steam, and stirred\nduring four to six hours, after which 150 parts\nof the finest potato spirit are added, and the\nwhole heated during four hours to 87° C. This\nliquid is dyed by the addition of orange color,\nand can then be used for painting the pat-\nterns.\n2. When used for painting and glazing ma-\nchinery, it consists of 35 lb. shellac, 5 lb. Manila\ncopal, 10 lb. Zanzibar copal, and 150 lb. spirit.\nNets, Varnish for.—l. The following is a good\nwaterproof composition, and is very pliable:\nDissolve soft soap in hot water and add a solu-\ntion of sulphate of iron. An insoluble iron\nsoap is precipitated, which must be collected,\nwashed, and dried. It must be then mixed to\nthe right consistence with linseed oil and it is\nthen ready to apply.\n2. Try paraffin wax, melted with a small por-\ntion of raw linseed oil, both for lines and nets;\nsee that they are perfectly dry before putting\nthem into the abov r e hot, and you will say\nyou have found nothing to equal it. When\nyou take them out, wring them dry before the\nfire in an old duster or cloth.\nOak Varnish.— 1. Clear pale resin, 33^ lb.; oil\nof turpentine, 1 gal.; dissolve. It may be\ncolored darker by adding a little fine lamp-\nblack.\n2. To the last add 20 oz. Canada balsam. Oak\nvarnish is syn. with common turpentine var-\nnish and wainscot varnish.\n3. Clear Venice turpentine, 4 lb.; oil of tur-\npentine 5 lb.; mix. Both are good common\nvarnishes for wood or metal.\nOil Varnish.—\n1. Rosin 3 lb.\nMelt, add—\nVenice turpentine 2 lb.\nPale drying oil 1 gal.\nCool a little and thin with oil of turpentine,\n1 qt.\n2. Rosin, 3 lb.; drying oil, gal.; melt\nand thin with oil of turpentine, 2 qt. Both the\nabove are good varnishes for common work.\nPaintings, Varnish for. Take of mastic, 6\noz.; pure turpentine, oz.; camphor, 2 drm.;\nspirits of turpentine, 19 oz. Add first the\ncamphor to the turpentine; the mixture is made\nin a water bath. Wheii the solution is effected,\nadd the mastic and the spirits of turpentine near\nthe end of the operation; filter through a\ncotton cloth.\nPaper Var nish. —The following formula affords\nvery good varnishes for drawings that have\nbeen previously sized with gelatine: Canada\nbalsam, 1 oz.; oil of turpentine, 2 oz.; or; Cana-\nda balsam, 4 oz.; camphine, 8 oz.\nPatterns, Varnish for.— Alcohol, 1 gal.; shel-\nlac, 1 lb. Lamp or ivory black sufficient to\ncolor it. See also Machinery Varnishes above.\nPicture Varnish.— Several varnishes are called\nby this name. Pale copal or mastic varnish\nis generally used for oil paintings, and crystal,\nwhite hard spirit, or mastic varnish, for water\ncolor drawings on paper.\nPlaster of Paris Casts, to Varnish.— Of white\nsoap and wax, take each J^ oz.; of water, 2 pt.;\nboil them together for a short time in a clean\nvessel. This varnish is to be applied, when\ncold, by means of a soft brush. It does not\nsink in; it readily dries and its effect maybe\nheightened by lightly using a silk handkerchief.\nPocket Books, etc., Varnish for.— Use 6 oz. mas-\ntic, in drops. 3 oz. coarsely powdered glass, se-\nparated from the dust by a sieve 3:2 oz. spirits\nof wine of 40°. Place the ingredients in a sand","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0593.jp2"},"590":{"fulltext":"Varnishes.\n578\nVarnishes.\nbath over a fire, and let them boil, stirring well.\nWhen thoroughly mixed, introduce 3 oz. spirits\nof turpentine, boil for half an hour, remove\nfrom the fire, cool, and strain through cotton\ncloth. Great care in manipulation is requisite\nto avoid a conflagration. Use a closed fire and\nwatch incessantly.\nPrint Varnish. A compound of benzole and\nalmond oil. This print varnish does not give\nthe slightest glaze to photographs on plain\npaper.\nPrinter s Varnish.— This varnisti diluted with\ntwice its volume of oil of turpentine forms an\nexcellent common varnish.\nPrinter s Varnish for Ink.— To each cwt. lin-\nseed oil (clarified) add 50 lb. clear black resin\nand 5 lb. oil of turpentine. The varnish is now\nready to be incorporated with the coloring\nmatter.\nPrinter s Tar Oil Varnish.— Linseed oil, 50\nparts litharge, 3 parts pine resin, 20 parts\ntar varnish oil, 10 parts. The litharge is boiled\nwith the linseed oil and pine resin until the\nmass commences to draw threads in cooling;\nthe varnish oil is then added.— Dingier s Poly.\nJournal.\nPrints, Varnish for.— 1. Apiece of plate glass\nis heated, and while yet warm, a little wax\nrubbed over it water is then poured over the\nplate, and the moistened picture laid thereon\nand pressed closely down by means of a .piece\nof filtering paper. When dry, the picture is\nremoved, and will be found to possess a surface\nof great brilliancy, which is not injured by the\nprocess of mounting.\n2. Boil Chio turpentine till brittle, powder,\nand dissolve in oil of turpentine.\n3. Canada balsam and clear white resin, of\neach 6 oz.; oil of turpentine, lqt.; dissolve.\n4. Digest gum sandarac, 20 parts gum mas-\ntic, 8 parts camphor, 1 part with alcohol, 48\nparts. The map or engraving must previously\nreceive 1 or 2 coats of gelatine.\nRetouching Varnish.—\n1. Sandarac 1 oz.\nCastor oil 80 grn.\nAlcohol 6 oz.\nFirst dissolve the sandarac in alcohol, and\nthen add the oil.\n2. Luckardt s.—\nAlcohol 150 parts.\nSandarac 25 parts.\nCamphor 2J4 parts.\nCastor oil 5 parts.\nVenetian turpentine. 2^£ parts.\n3. A good retouching varnish is a boon to all\nretouchers, and those who are unfortunate\nenough to be plagued by too thin films will\ngladly hail a formula which promises this de-\nsideratum. In his recent work on retouching*,\nM. Janssen, the Photo. Correspondent says, re-\ncommends the following varnish\nAlcohol fep. gr. 0*830 60 parts.\nSandarac 10 parts.\nCamphor 2 parts.\nVenetian turpentine 4 parts.\nOil of lavender 3 parts.\nThis varnish may also be used for paper pic-\ntures. The retoucher should not set to work as\nsoon as the negative has been varnished, as the\nfilm will not then be hard enough to bear the\ntouch of a lead pencil. The varnished film is in\nbest condition for retouching when a day old.\nRubber, Shellac Varnish for .—Powder shellac\nand soak in well stoppered bottle with ten\ntimes its weight of strong ammonia. Allow it\nto stand for a number of days, when the shel-\nlac disappears. Sometimes several weeks are\nrequix*ed to effect complete solution. If for\nuse on overshoes, add a little lampblack.\nRubbers, Varnish for.— Dissolve 1 oz. finely\npowdered shellac in 10 oz. strong ammonia.\nThis must be kept in a bottle with a ground\nglass stopper. After several days the shellac\nwill become dissolved. Apply with a rag.\nSealing Wax Varnish.— Dissolve sealing wax\nof any color in strong alcohol. Apt to be\nrather brittle.\nShellac Varnish. 1. a, Shellac, 60 grm.; b, alco-\nhol, 60 grm.; c, castor oil, 25 grm.; d, alcoholic\nsolution of anilin dye, a few drops, a and b\nare dissolved and heated until quite thick, then\na little of d is added, and for every 60 grm. of\nthe mixture add 25 grm. of castor oil, and heat\nfor a short time.\n2. Harris .—Put 1 oz. shellac into a wide\nmouthed 8 oz. phial, containing 5 oz. rectified\nnaphtha or wood spirit. Cork and stand in a\nwarm place until the gum is dissolved. Shake\nfrequently and filter, adding more naphtha to\nassist the filtering, and changing the filter from\ntime to time.\nImitation Shellac Varnish. The following\narticle under this name is used by furniture\ndealers\nGum sandarac V/z lb.\nPale rosin V/% lb.\nBenzine 2 gal.\nDissolve by gentle heat. The varnish is qu ck\ndrying.\nVarnish for Boots and Shoes.— 1. Boi) together\n1 pt. linseed oil, lb. of mutton suet, the same\nquantity of beeswax, and a small piece of\nresin, and when the mixture becomes milk\nwarm apply it with a hair brush. After two\napplications the article will become water-\nproof. Great caution must be exercised in\nmelting the above ingredients.\n2. Common tar may be made warm, and\nbrushed over the soles of boots and shoes.\nThey are then placed near the fire, so that the\ntar may be absorbed. When the absorption\nhas taken place, a second or third application\nmay be given with advantage. This application\nis not suitable for the upper leathers.\n3. India rubber varnish will be found very\nuseful for anointing the upper leather of\nboots and shoes.\nShoes. See also Blacking.\nElastic and Clean Varnish for the Leather of\nLadies 1 Shoes.— Three pounds of rain water are\nplaced in a pot over fire, and when well boiling\nthere are added 4 oz. white pulverized wax, 1\noz. clear, transparent glue, in small pieces, 2 oz.\npulverized gum Senegal, 2 oz. white soap scraped\nfine, 2 oz. brown pulverized sugar; the ingredi-\nents are placed in one by one, and every time\nstirred up; it is well to take the pot from the\nfire every time a substance is added, to prevent\nboiling over; when all is added, the pot is re-\nmoved from the fire; when sufficiently cooled,\n3 oz. alcohol are added, and finally 3 oz. fine\nFrankfort black, well incorporated by con-\ntiuued stirring. This varnish is put on the\nleather with a brush, and very valuable for\nboots and shoes, as it can be afterward polished\nwith a large brush, like ordinary shoeblacking;\nshows a high polish, and does not soil the cloth-\ning.\nShoes, Varnish for the Edges of.—\nAlcohol 8 fl. oz.\nShellac 2 oz.\nResin 1 oz.\nTurpentine oz.\nLampblack J4 or y% oz.\nSign Painter s Varnish.— To 2 qt. drying lin-\nseed oil, add 2 lb. best copal, lb. lead acetate,\ngal. turpentine. Boil the copal for several\nhours until very thick, before adding the tur-\npentine.\nSilverware, Varnish for.— Gum elemi, 30 parts;\nwhite amber, 45 parts; charcoal, 30 parts; spirits\nof turpentine, 375 parts. It must be used in a\nheated state, the metal to which it is to be ap-\nplied being also heated.\nSpirit Varnish.— Brown Hard.—\n1. Sandarac 4 oz.\nPale seed lac 2 oz.\nElemi (true) 1 oz.\nAlcohol 1 qt.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0594.jp2"},"591":{"fulltext":"Varnishes.\n579\nVarnish.es.\nDigest with agitation till dissolved, then add\nVenice turpentine, 2 oz.\n2. Gum sandarac 3 lb.\nShellac 2 lb.\nAlcohol, 65 over proof 2 gal.\nDissolve, add turpentine varnish, 1 qt.; agi-\ntate well and strain. Very fine.\n3. Seed lac V/i lb.\nYellow resin 1^ lb.\nRectified alcohol 2 gal.\n4. White Hard.—\nGum sandarac 5 lb.\nCamphor 1 oz.\nAlcohol, 65 over proof 2 gal.\nWashed and dried coarsely\npounded glass 2 lb.\nProceed as in making mastic varnish. When\nstrained add 1 qt. of very pale turpentine var-\njnsh.\n5. Picked mastic 4 oz.\nCoarsely ground glass 4 oz.\nSandarac 3 oz.\nPale clear Venice turpentine 3 oz.\nAlcohol 2 lb.\nAs last.\n•6. Gum sandarac 1 lb.\nClear Strasburgh turpentine 6 oz.\nAlcohol, 65 over prooi 3 pt.\nDissolve.\nX Mastic, in tears 2 oz.\nSandarac 8 oz.\nGum elemi ..1 oz.\nStrasburgh or Scio turpentine\n(genuine) 4 oz.\nAlcohol, 65 over proof 1 qt.\nUsed on metals, etc. Polishes well.\n8. Soft Brilliant.—\nSandarac 6 oz.\nElemi (genuine) 4 oz.\nAnime 1 oz.\nCamphor oz.\nAlcohol 1 qt.\nAs before.\nThe above spirit varnishes are chiefly applied\nto objects of the toilet, as work boxes, card\neases, etc., but are also suitable to other arti-\ncles, whether of paper, wood, linen, or metal\nthat require a brilliant and quick drying var-\nnish. They mostly dry almost as soon as ap-\nplied, and are usually hard enough to polish in\ntwenty-four hours. Spirit varnishes are less\ndurable and more liable to crack than oil var-\nnishes^\nStopping Out Varnishes, Petit Vernis.— Lamp-\nblack made into a paste with turpentine. Used\nby engravers.\nStoves, Varnish for.— One pt. hot linseed oil is\nadded to 2 lb. asphaltum; when thoroughly\nmixed, 2 qt. turpentine are added. Any as-\nphaltum varnish can be used, but this is as\ncheap as any.\nStove Pipe, to- Protect.— Varnish with—\nAsphaltum 2 lb.\nBoiled linseed oil 1 pt.\nOil of turpentine 2 qt.\nFuse the asphaltum in an iron pot, boil the\nlinseed oil, and add while hot. Stir well and\nremove from the fire. When partially cooled\nadd the oil of turpentine.\nDe Sylvestre s Dextrine.— Ten parts of dextrine\nare added to 30 parts of water, and 5 parts of\n•alcohol are then added.\nTable Varnish\n1. Oil of turpentine i lb.\nBeeswax 2 oz.\nColophony 1 drm.\n2. Dammar resin 1 lb.\nSpirits of turpentine 2 lb.\nCamphor 200 grn.\nDigest the mixture for twenty-four hoi/vs.\nThe decanted portion is fit for immediate use.\nTar Varnish.— For wood or iron.\n1. Coal tar 1}^ gal.\nSpirits of turpentine pt.\nOil of vitriol 3 oz.\nMix the tar and vitriol together with a stick,\nadd the turpentine, and apply with a brush as\nit becomes tuick.\n2. Heat tar to 156° F. and mix with it equal\nparts of hydraulic lime, and Roman or Portland\ncement. The mixture is a thin fluid. When\ndry it is soft and flexible. This varnish pre-\nvents wood from rotting; especiallv good for\nwood under water and for shingles.\nTheatrical Varnish.— For affixing mustaches.\nResin 4 parts.\nOil ricini 1 part.\nMethylated spirit v 16 fl. pts.\nDissolve, strain and perfume.\nTingry s Varnish. See Mastic.\nTinner s Varnish.— I. Mix lampblack with\nshellac.\n2. Mix Frankfort black with shellac.\n3. Mix Frankfort black with a mixture of as-\nphaltum and oil of turpentine, then add a little\nlinseed oil and minium. The exact proportions\nof tinner s varnishes are immaterial.\nTools, Varnish for.— Tallow, 4 oz.; resin, 2 oz.;\nmelt, and strain while hot. With a brush apply\na coat to the tools and it will prevent their\nrusting.\nToy Varnish.— This varnish is similar to com-\nmon spirit varnish, but carefully rectified wood\nnaphtha must be used as a solvent.\nTransferring Varnish.—\nMastic in tears 6^£ oz.\nResin 12^ oz.\nPale Venice turpentine 25 oz.\nSandarac 25 oz.\nAlcohol 5 pt.\nDissolve in a clean bottle or can in a warm\nplace, frequently shaking it. When the gum is\ndissolved strain it through a lawn sieve and it\nis fit for nse.\nTransfer Varnish for Diaphanie, Engravings,\netc.— 1. Pale Canada balsam and rectified oil of\nturpentine, equal parts.\n2. Mastic in tears and sandarac, each4oz.;\nrectified spirit, 1)4, pt.; dissolve, and add pale\nCanada balsam, y% pt. Melt the balsam with a\ngentle heat, mix with the other ingredients\nand agitate violently. No. 1 is also termed\ncrystal varnish.\nTransparent Green, Varnish.— Grind a small\nquantity of Chinese blue and chromate of pot-\nash together, and mix them thoroughly in\ncommon copal varnish thinned with turpentine.\nThe blue and the chromate must be ground\nto an impalpable powder, and the tone of color\nvaried with the amount of each ingredient\nused. A yellow green requires about twice the\nquantity of the chromate of potash to that of\nthe Chinese blue.\nTrays {Photographic), Varnish for.— Use as-\nphaltum varnish, or coat the bottom or sides\nof the wooden tray with—\nBy weight.\nResin 1 part.\nBeeswax 2 part?.\nParalfiue 3 parts.\nMelt the above first, warm the tray, and while\nhot apply composition with a brush.\nTurpentine varnish.— To 1 pt. spirits of tur-\npentine add 10 oz. clear resin, pounded: pin it\nin a tin can on a stove and let it boil for halt ;m\nhour. When the resin is all dissolved, let it\ncool aud it is ready for use.\nSee also Oak and Wainscot varnishes.\nUmbrella Varnish. Ten parts pulverized\nlitharge and 20 parts turpentine are boiled in\n20 parts linseed oil. Dry in the sun.\nViolin Varnish.— 1. The famous Italian violin","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0595.jp2"},"592":{"fulltext":"Varnishes.\n580\nVarnishes.\nmakers used, it is said, the following sort of\nvarnish on their instruments Rectified alco-\nhol, y gal.; 6 oz. gum sandarac, 3 oz. gum mas-\ntic and \\i pt. turpentine varnish. The above\ningredients are put into a tin can by the stove\nand frequently shaken until the whole is well\ndissolved. It is finally strained and kept for\nuse. If upon application it is seen to be too\nthick, thin with an addition of more turpen-\ntine varnish. The wood should be stained be-\nfore applying the varnish. For a red stain use\ncamwood, logwood, or aniline.\n2. Red Varnish for Violins.— Dissolve over a\nmoderate fire—\nSandarac 12 parts.\nShellac 6 parts.\nMastic 6 parts.\nElemi 3 parts.\nIn 150 parts 95% alcohol which has been colored\nred with cochineal, or if a darker red is re-\nquired, add dragon s blood gum. When the\nabove is dissolved add 6 parts Venice turpen-\ntine. As this varnish is highly inflammable,\nuse caution as to fire. Find the tone of a piece\nof wood by direct comparison with similar\nnotes on the piano or any standard instrument.\nA violin in tone at the proper pitch by a tuning\nfork is very convenient.\n3. Tone of Wood for Same. Dissolve by\nheat 2 oz. amber in oil of turpentine, 5 oz., and\ndrying linseed oil, 5 oz. Color with dragon s\nblood or extract alkanet root. The tone given\nby a piece of wood depends upon its size,\nthickness, etc. Therefore, a test must be com-\nparative. Cut square plates of equal size and\nthickness of a known wood and of the wood to\nbe tried. Place the center of the plate upon\nend of a cork or spool placed upon a table near\nthe edge. Press the center of the plate of wood\nwith the thumb and bow it near one of the\ncorners. This will give the lowest note such a\nplate can produce, or the normal tone. The\nhigher the tone, the better the wood.\n4. Coarsely powdered gum copal and glass,\neach 4 oz.; alcohol, 64 o. p., 1 pt.; camphor, 3^\noz.; heat in a water bath with frequent stir-\nring, so that the bubbles may be counted as\nthey rise until solution is complete, and when\ncold decant the clear portion. When oil var-\nnish is used it is made f rom artists 1 vinegar\ncopal.\n5. The true Cremona varnish is of unknown\nformula; its preparation is a lost art.\nAmber, fused 2 oz.\nOil of turpentine 5 oz.\nDrying linseed oil 5 oz.\nThe following is for a spirit varnish:\nMastic 1 dr.\nSandarac 1 dr.\nLac 63^ dr.\nAlcohol 5 fl. oz.\nTo tinge with yellow, annatto, aloes, gam-\nboge, or turmeric may be used; for red, drag-\non s blood or red sanders wood. By mixing\nthe above, intermediate shades may be ob-\ntained. The formula is only half the art; much\ndepends on the application, treatment between\ncoats, etc. It should be done by an expert.\n6. The receipt for violin varnish as used by\nGerman violin makers is four parts sandarac\nresin, 2 parts shellac, 1 part mastic, 2 parts ben-\nzoes resin, 2 parts Venetian turpentine, and 32\nparts of alcohol. The solid ingredients are\nfirst dissolved in the alcohol and the Venetian\nturpentine added afterward, and finally the\nwhole carefully filtered to get rid of all dust.\nBrushes to be kept scrupulously clean. For\nstaining, Campeachy wood is used, mixed with\nabout J4 yellow dyewood, and boiled for two\nhours in 5 times its weight of water in a cop-\nper or earthenware vessel; no iron should come\nin contact with it, as this makes the solution\nblack. The violins are colored with this solu-\ntion when well cleaned, and afterward var-\nnished.\n7. Coarsely powdered copal and glass, each 4\noz.; alcohol, H4 o. p., 1 pint; camphor, J^ oz.;\nheat the mixture with frequent stirring in a\nwater bath, so that the bubbles may be counted\nas they rise, until solution is complete, and\nwhen cold, decant the clear portion. When oil\nvarnish is used it is made as for artists virgin\ncopal.\nWainscot Varnish.— Eight lb. of second sorted\ngum anime, 3 gals, of clarified oil, 34 lb. of lith-\narge, 34 lb. of dried copperas, 34 lb. of dried\nsugar of lead, 534 gal. of turpentine; to be all\nwell boiled until it strings very strong, and then\nmixed and strained. Where large quantities\nare required, it Avill always be found best to\nboil off the three runs in the boiling pot. This-\nvarnish is principally intended for house\npainters, grainers, builders, and japanners; it\nwill dry in two hours in summer and in four in\nwinter.\nWaterproof Varnish.— 1. Boil together until\nthoroughly incorporated, 2 qts. linseed oil and\n3^ lb. flour of sulphur. Used for waterproof\ntextile fabrics.\n2. Oxide of lead 5 lb.; lampblack 2^ lb.; sul-\nphur 634 oz.; India rubber dissolved in turpen-\ntine, 12J^ lb. Boil until thoroughly mixed.\n3. Let a 34 lb- oi: India rubber, in small pieces,,\nsoften in y% lb. of oil of turpentine; then add\nlb. of boiled oil, and boil for 2 hours over a\nslow fire. When dissolved, add 6 lb. of boiled\nlinseed oil and 1 lb. of litharge, and boil until an\neven liquid is obtained. Applied warm.\nWax Varnish.— Wax (pure), 5 oz.; oil of tur-\npentine, 1 qt.; dissolve. Used for furniture.\nWax Varnish to Preserve Statues and Marble\nExposed to the Air.— Melt 2 parts of wax in 8\nparts of pure essence of turpentine. Apply\nhot, and spread thinly, so as not to destroy the\nlines of the figures. This varnish may be used\nupon statues which have been cleansed Avith\nwater dashed with hydrochloric acid, but they\nmust be perfectly dry when the application is\nmade.\nVarnish Finish.— For Cheap Work.— One coat\nof filler or stain, followed by one coat of cheap\nturpentine varnish, without rubbing. In this\nclass of work the brilliancy of the gloss and\ncovering qualities of the varnish are principally\nconsidered. The cheaper turpentine varnishes\nhave a brilliant gloss, and dry very hard, but\nthe gloss is not permanent, and after drying,,\nthe gum is very brittle, and easily cracked and\nbroken. The gum used is principally common\nresin.\nWater Color Drawings, to Varnish.— 1. Boil\nsome parchment in clear water until it becomes\na clear size, strain, and keep for use; give your\nwork two coats, not applying the second before\nthe first has dried, and observing to do it quick-\nly and lightly. When dry apply the following-\nvarnish 1 oz. Canada balsam, 2 oz. oil turpen-\ntine, well dissolved.\n2. Size the drawing thoroughly and carefully\nwith a solution of isinglass. When perfectly\ndry, brush the following varnish over it: 4 oz.\nclear balsam of Canada and 8 oz. camphine,\nwarmed gradually, and shaken together till\ndissolved. This mixture is generally called\nCanada varnish, and is used for varnishing\ndrawings, maps, prints, etc.\n3. The best way to effect this, without dis-\nturbing the colors, is to float over the surface\nof the drawing a sufficient.quantity of colorless,\nfluid oxgall, and when thoroughly dry, with a\ncoat of clear copal varnish thinned with the\ngall. This preparation of ox gall is invaluable\nto all water color artists, as it sets the colors-\nbeautifully.\nWhite Varnish.— 1. Tender copal, 73*6 oz.;\ncamphor, 1 oz.; alcohol of 95$, 1 qt. Dissolve,\nthen add mastic, 2 oz.; Venice turpentine, 1 oz.\nDissolve and strain. Very white, drying, and\ncapable of being polished when hard. Used for\ntoys.\n2. Sandarac, 8 oz.; mastic, 2 oz.; Canada bal-\nsam, 4 oz.; alcohol, 1 qt. 1. Ninety per cent, alco-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0596.jp2"},"593":{"fulltext":"Varnishes.\n581\nVeneers.\nliol, 1 qt.; guni sandarac, 10 oz.; gum mastic, 2\noz.; gum anime, oz. Dissolve in a clean can,\nwith gentle heat. Agitate well when the gums\nare dissolved; strain through a lawn sieve.\nWhite Hard Spirit Varnish.— 1. Gum sandarac,\n1 lb.; clear turpentine, 6 oz.; alcohol (65 over\nproof), 3 pt.; dissolve.\n2. Mastic, in tears, 2oz.; sandarac, 8 oz.; gum\nelemi, 1 oz.; Ohio turpentine, 4 oz.; alcohol (65\nover proof), 1 qt. Used on metals; polishes\nwell.\n3. Gum mastic, 4 oz.; gum juniper, 14, lb.; tur-\npentine, 1 oz.; 90^ alcohol, 4 pt.; mix together.\nWhite Ton Varnish. Tender copal, 15 oz.;\ncamphor, 2 bz.; alcohol, 95%, 2 qt.; dissolve, add\nmastic, 4 oz.; Venice turpentine, 2 oz.; dissolve\nand strain. White, dries easily, may be polished\nwhen hard. Used for toys.\nWood, Varnish for.— White Woods.— Dissolve\n3 lb. of bleached shellac in 1 gal. 9Q% alcohol;\nstrain, and add more gal. of 90$ alcohol. If\nthe shellac is pure and white, this will make a\nbeautifully clear covering for white wooden\narticles.\nBlack Varnish for Wood.— 1. A German trade\ncircular describes two kinds of black varnish\na. The ordinary black varnish for different\nkinds of wood. h. The black ebony varnish\nfor certain woods which approach nearest to\nebony in hardness and weight. The ordinary\nblack wood varnish is obtained by boiling to-\ngether blue Brazil wood, powdered gall apples,\nand alum, in rain or river water, until it be-\ncomes black. This liquid is then filtered through\na fine organzine, and the objects painted with a\nnew brush before the decoction has cooled, and\nthis repeated until the wood appears of a fine\nMack color. It is then coated with the follow-\ning varnish: a mixture of iron filings, vitriol,\nand vinegar is heated (without boiling), and\nleft a few days to settle. If the wood is black\nenough, yet for the sake of durability, it must\nbe coated with a solution of alum and nitric\nacid, mixed with a little verdigris, then a de-\ncoction of gall apples and logwood dyes are\nused to give it a deep black. A decoction may\nbe made of brown Brazil wood with alum in\nrain.water, without gall apples; the wood is\nleft standing in it for some days in a moder-\nately warm place, and to it iron filings in strong\nvinegar are merely added, and both are boiled\nwith the wood over a gentle fire. For this\npurpose soft pearwood is chosen, which is pre-\nferable to all others for black varnishing.\n2. For the fine black ebony varnish, apple,\npear, and hazel wood are recommended in pre-\nference for this; especially when these kinds of\nwood have no projecting veins, they may be\nsuccessfully coated with black varnish, and are\nthen most complete imitations of the natural\nebony. For this varnish 14 oz. of gall apples,\n3 y% oz. of rasped logwood, 1% oz. of vitriol, and\n1% oz. of distilled verdigris are boiled together\nwith water in a well glazed pot, the decoction\nfiltered while it is warm, and the wood coated\nwith repeated hot layers of it.\nFor a second coating a mixture of 3 oz. of\npure iron filings, dissolved in of a liter of\nstrong wine vinegar, is warmed, and when cool\nthe wood already blackened is coated two or\nthree times with it, allowing each coat to dry\nbetween.\nFor articles which are to be thoroughly satu-\nrated a mixture of 1% oz. of sal ammoniac,\nwith a sufficient quantity of steel filings, is to\nbe placed in a suitable vessel, strong vinegar\npoured upon it, and left for fourteen days in a\ngently heated oven. A strong lye is now put\ninto a good pot, to which is added coarsely\nbruised gall apples and blue Brazil shavings,\nand exposed for the same time as the former\nto the gentle heat of an oven, which will then\nyield a good varnish. The pear wood articles\nare now laid in the first named varnish, boiled\nlor a few hours, and left in for three days\nlonger; they are then placed in the second var-\nnish, and treated as in the first. If the arti-\ncles are not then thoroughly saturated, they\nmay be once more placed in the first bath, and\nthen in the second. More properly a stain.\nPatent Varnish for Wood or Canvas.— Dis-\nsolve by heat, 4^ lb. asphaltum 2 gal. of\nspirirts of turpentine. When this mixture has\ncooled a little add 1 qt. copal varnish and 1 qt.\nof boiled linseed oil. If a deeper black is de-\nsired, a little lampblack may be added.\nParisian Wood Varnish.— K. Grager.— Dis-\nsolve 1 part of good shellac in 3 or 4 parts of\n92% alcohol on the water bath, and cau-\ntiously add distilled water, until a curdy mass\nseparates out, which is collected and placed\nbetween linen. The liquor is filtered through\npaper, all the alcohol removed by distillation\nfrom the water bath, and the resin removed\nand dried at 100 until it ceases to lose weight;\nit is then dissolved in twice its weight of alco-\nhol, of at least 98^, and the solution perfumed\nwith lavender oil.\nVarnish for Wood Furniture.— Niedlig.—\nWhite wax, 8 parts; colophony, 2 parts; Vene-\ntian turpentine, part. Heat gently with con-\nstant stirring, pour the mixture into a glazed\nstone pot, and add while still warm 6 parts of\nrectified oil of turpentine. After standing for\n24 hours, the mass is a soft buttery substance,\nand is ready for use. The articles to be var-\nnished must be carefully cleansed with soap and\nwater, and dried before applying the varnish.\nThe polish obtained is less brilliant than that\nobtained by shellac varnish; but it has a pecu-\nliar chaste appearance.\nVarnish, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nVaseline Soap. See Soaps.\nVases, Iron, to Protect from the\nWeather.— White japan varnish baked on\nthe vase in an oven or drying room at a tem-\nperature of 225° is the only white that will\nstand the weather. All air -drying paints\nweather.\nVaucher s Alloy. See Alloys, Wliite\nMetal.\nVeins, Blue for the. See Rouges and.\nFace Paints.\nVehicle. See Medium,\nVellum.— A fine kind of parchment pre-\npared from the skins of calves, kids and lambs.\nThe skins are limed, shaved, washed and\nstretched in hoops or other frames, where they\nare scraped and trimmed with the currier s\nfleshing knife, and next carefully rubbed down\nwith pumice stone; they are lastly polished\nwith finely powdered chalk or fresh slaked\nlime, and then dried. A green color is given\nwith a solution of crystallized verdigris to\nwhich a little cream of tartar and nitric acid\nhave been added, and a blue color with a solu-\ntion of indigo. The surface is often finished\nwith white of egg, and subsequent friction.\nThe skins of sheep are commonly used for\nparchment, those of goats and wolves for\ndrum heads.\nVellum, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nVelvets, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nVeneering.— The veneer should be damped\nwith a cloth dipped in hot water, then glued\nthe reverse side; lay quickly on the board, and\npress out surplus glue with the pane Of the\nhammer. The wood should be properly planed\nand finished off with a toothing plane, but for\ncommoner work a brush of glue over the wood\nto be veneered, then dried, and veneer laid on\nas before. If properly laid, no weight or press-\nure is required for flat surfaces; but if circular\nor partly so, it should be bound round with\nstring until the glue sets. Use good glue.\nVeneers. —The veneer having been cut to the\nproper shape, the surface to which it is to be\napplied is coated uniformly with glue and the\nveneer is directly placed in position. The ex-\nterior surface of the veneer is then sponged\nover with warm water to prevent its curling.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0597.jp2"},"594":{"fulltext":"Ventilation.\n582\nVinegars.\nVentilation of Schoolhouses. The\nplan of the U. S. army hospitals is perhaps the\nbest. Have an air shaft from outdoors open-\ning- directly under the stove. Have openings\nfor foul air in the top of the room and in base-\nboards, which may be closed, according to the\nweather.\nVerdigris, English. Blue vitriol, 24 lb.;\nwhite vitriol, 16 lb.; sugar of lead, 12 lb.; alum,\n2 lb. (all coarsely powdered); mix and heat them\nin a pot over the fire until they unite into a\nmass. Sometimes sold for foreign verdigris.\nVerdigris. iErugo, Vert-de-Gris.— This is a\nmixture of several basic acetates of copper,\nwhich have a green or blue color. It is obtained\nin the wine districts of the south of Europe by\nthe action of refuse grapes from which the juice\nhas been expressed, on thin sheets of copper.\nWhen pure it should dissolve almost entirely,\nand without effervescence, in dilute sulphuric\nacid. It is very poisonous.\nVerditer. Blue Verditer, Refiners Verdi-\nter, Cendres Bleues (Fr.).— A blue pigment ob-\ntained by adding chalk, whiting, or milk of\nlime to a solution of copper in nitric acid, or by\ntriturating recently precipitated and still moist\ncarbonate of oxide of copper with hydrate of\nlime. Verditer is made into crayons while\nmoist, or dried into a powder; or it is used as\na water color in the moist state.\nVermin, to Exterminate. See Name\nof Insect, Bugs, etc.\nVerminin Water.— Go to the nearest river or\npond, and with a small net (a piece of old\nmosquito bar will do), collect a dozen or more\nof the small fishes known as minnows, and put\nthem in your cistern, and in a short time you\nwill have clear water, the wiggletails and red-\ndish-colored bugs or lice being gobbled up by\nthe fishes.\nVermin on Trees and Plants, to Destroy.— The\nsolution obtained by agitating together a\nquantity of water and recently slaked lime,\nand permitting the mixture to stand for a few\nhours in a covered vessel, is said to be excellent\nfor this purpose, and very cheap. 1 1 may be\nsprayed on and around the twigs, using a smail\nsyringe with a finely perforated rose nozzle. A\ndecoction of the dried leaves of the sumac tree\nis also said to preserve vines and plants from\nthe attacks of insects. The application must\nbe repeated occasionally. Besides these, sul-\nphur, alkaline sulphides, calcium sulpho-car-\nbonate, etc., are used with satisfactory x*esults-\nVermouth. See Liquors.\nVert d Eau, See Alloys.\nVespetro. See Liquors.\nVessels, Paint for See Paints,\nVesu vium.— Seven lb. best glue are boiled in\n3% pt. of water; 3 lb. white resin are dissolved\nby neat in 3 pt. raw linseed oil; the two are\nmixed and simmered for \\j hour; and are then\npoured out on a quantity of whiting and\nmixed to the consistency of dough.\nOr, boil 134 lb- best glue into thick solution,\nstir it into 10 oz. of resin, or, still better, Vene-\ntian turpentine. Add enough whiting or min-\neral color to bring it to a stiff paste and add a\nfew drops of olive oil. These are the best\nformulas for making this substance.\nVinegar and Vinegars.— Including ordi-\nnary vinegar, aromatic, toilet vinegars, etc.\nVinegar Making. The following description\nis for those who wish to make vinegar on a\nmoderately large scale. For small quantities\nthe receipts which follow are better adapted\nThe accompanying illustration shows the ar-\nrangements of the Hengstenberg generators.\nThe stock mixture is contained in a reservoir\nsituated above the generators. The generators,\nof which there may be from three to seven,\nstand vertically one above the other as stated.\nIn the morning the upper generator cask is\nfilled with the stock mixture from the reser-\nvoir, and as soon as it is filled, the faucet near-\nthe bottom of the upper cask is opened and\nthe stock mixture allowed to fill the next low-\ner generator cask. From this the stock mix-\nture is drawn over the next lower cask and so\non to the lowest one, so that every generator\ncask has been completely filled with the stock\nmixture for a short time. The faucets have an\nextra wide bore, so that the flow from one cask\ninto the other takes the least possible time\nthey remain open after the liquid has flowed\noff, and thus are the means for the admission of\nair into the casks. The shavings with which,\nthe casks are filled are completely and uni-\nformly soaked with the stock mixture, and\ndry places or nests, which often cause great,\ntroubles and irregularities in other systems,\nare an absolute impossibility with this system.\nThe formation and spreading of disease, and\nmore especially the propagation of the so-called\nvinegar flies, is prevented in this system.\nAfter the mixture has arrived in the lowest\ncask, about one fifth to one fourth is racked,\noff as ready vinegar, so that if six generators of\n150 gal. capacity are worked together daily,,\nfrom 25 to 30 gal. of ready vinegar are drawn\noff. The balance of the stock mixture is now\nbrought back to the reservoir, and enough\nfresh stock mixture is added to fill the same\nup. It remains there till the next morning,,\nwhen it is carried through the same circuit in\nthe sam^ manner as above described. It i»\nevident that the labor is very simple; the open-\ning and closing of the faucets may be attended\nto by an apprentice, and the lifting of the\nstock mixture to the reservoir may be done by\nany common and untrained laborer, if, as it\nnaturally would be in larger establishments, a\npump is not preferred for this purpose. The\nbuilding for a vinegar factory worked on this\nplan does not require any special appoint-\nments, and therefore any locality may be util-\nized, and such buildings having rooms from\neight to ten feet high, one above the other, are\nvery well adapted for arrangements on a larger\nscale. In every story two or three casks can\nbe placed in such a manner that the lower cask\nin the upper story connects with upper casks-\nof the next lower story by means of a piece of\nrubber hose, which is drawn over the faucet","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0598.jp2"},"595":{"fulltext":"Vinegars.\n588\nVinegars.\nkey, and passes through a two-inch hole in the\nfloor. The reservoir should be in the form of\nflat tubs (storage casks sawed in two will serve\nvery well), and are placed in the top story,\nwhere it is warmest, and where the acidification\nof the stock mixture remains in constant\nactivity.\nThe Hengstenberg system of generating\nvinegar, on the whole, offers some advantages,\nbut it would appear to us that these advan-\ntages can be fully utilized only by works of\ncomparatively small capacity, and that for\nyield in quantity and strength it cannot com-\npete with the Schuetzenbach generators, if the\nsame are worked by expert hands and under\nproper conditions. Nevertheless the progres-\nsive manufacturer will not lose anything by\ntrying a set of small generators of this kind;\nit may be got up with almost no expense at\nall from a few odd barrels and faucets, and as it\ncan be run regardless of interruptions, it may\ndo good service in the production of one or\nthe other fancy brands of vinegar, which to\nproduce it is sometimes very desirable, al-\nthough it would not be advisable to attempt\nthe same by interrupting the working of a\nlarge generator.— Chem. Review.\n1. Quick Process for Making Vinegar.— What\nis known as the German process is the most\nrapid method of making a good vinegar. In\nthis, dilute alcoholic liquor to which one thou-\nsandth part of honey or extract of malt has\nbeen added is caused to trickle down through\na mass of beechwood shavings previously\nsteeped in vinegar and contained in a vessel\ncalled a vinegar generator (essigMlder). It\nmay consist of a large oak hogshead or barrel\nfurnished with a loose lid or cover, a few\ninches below which is fitted a perforated shelf,\nhaving a number of small holes loosely filled\nwith packthread about six inches.long, knotted\nat the upper end to prevent their falling-\nthrough. Several small glass tubes, long enough\nto project slightly above and below the shelf,\nare also fitted in perforations in the shelf to\nserve as air vents. The vessel at the lower part\nis pierced with 8 or 10 holes equally distributed\naround the sides at about 6 inches above the\nbottom, to admit of the entrance of air. A\nsmall siphon tube, the upper curve of which is\nan inch below the air holes, serves to carry off\nthe liquid as fast as it accumulates at the bot-\ntom. The alcoholic iiquid, at a temperature of\n75°-83° Fah., is run in on the shelf, and slowly\ntrickles down through the holes by means of\nthe packthread, diffuses itself over the shav-\nings, slowly collects at the bottom, and runs\noff by the siphon exit. The air enters by the\nlower holes, passes freely through the shavings,\nand escapes by the glass tubes. The tempera-\nture within the apparatus soon rises to about\n100° Fah., and remains stationary at this point,\nwhile the action goes on favorably. The liquid\ngenerally requires to be passed three or four\ntimes through the cask before its acetification\nis complete.\n2. Put in 20 gal. rain water, 2Yz lb. acetic acid,\n1 gal. molasses, 1 qt. yeast. Stir well, and allow\nto stand from one to three weeks. If stronger\nvinegar is desired, add more molasses.\n3. Molasses 2 qt.\nYeast 1 qt.\nSoft water 6 gal.\nPut in keg, and put wire gauze over bung\nand stand in warm place for three weeks.\n4. Acetic acid 2 lb.\nMolasses 2 qt.\nWater 20 gal.\nShake and allow to stand two or three\nweeks.\n5. Cider 20 gal.\nWater 10 gal.\nYeast 2 gal.\n6. Cheap Vinegar.— Put 2 gal. molasses and 2\nqt. yeast in \\tYz gal. of warm rain water. Let\nit ferment. As the vinegar is used, add the\nabove ingredients in the same proportions.\n7. A cheap vinegar consists of 25 gal. of warm\nrain water with 4 gal. of molasses and 1 gal. of\nyeast. The mixture can be used after it has\nbeen allowed to ferment.\nVinegars.— These are solutions of aromatics in\nacetic acid, and are highly esteemed as reviv-\ning perfumes, both for the toilet and sick room.\nThey are corrosive, and should therefore be\nkept from contact with the skin and clothes.\nFor use they should be dropped on a piece of\nsponge and placed in a stoppered bottle or\nvinaigrette. This refers to toilet vinegars.\nArgol Vinegar.— White ar go 1 or cream of tar-\ntar, 1 lb. boiling water, 8 gal. Disolve, and let\nit cool; add \\Yz gal. proof spirit. Keep lightly\ncover in a warm place.\nAromatic Vinegar. 1. Henry s.— Dried leaves\nof rosemary; rue, wormwood, sage, mint and\nlavender flowers, each Yz oz.; bruised nutmeg,\ncloves, angelica root and camphor, each J4 oz.;\nalcohol, rectified, 4 oz.; concentrated acetic acid,\n16 oz.; macerate the materials for a day in the\nspirit; then add the acid and digest for a week\nlonger at a temperature of 14° or 15° C. FinaUy\npress out the now aromatized acid and filter it.\n2. Concentrated acetic acid, 8oz.; otto of Eng-\nlish lavender, 2 drm.; otto of English rosemary,\n1 drm.; otto of cloves, 1 drm.; otto camphor,\n1 oz. First disolve the bruised camphor in the\nacetic acid, then add the perfumery; after re-\nmaining together for a few days, with occasion-\nal agitation, filter. All vinegars are used by\npouring 3 or 4 drm. into an ornamental smell-\ning bottle, previously filled with crystals of\nsulphate of potash.\n3. Aromatic Vinegar, Aromatic Acetic Acid,\nVinaigre Aromatique, Acide Acetique Aroma-\ntique, Acetum Aromaticum, Acidum A. A.— The\nfollowing are approved formulas for this article:\nGlacial acetic acid 1 lb.\nNinety per cent alcohol 2 fl. oz.\nCamphor, pure, crushed small. iYz oz.\nOil of cloves, finest ,.lJ4drm.\nOil of rosemary 1 drm.\nOil of bergamot Yz drm.\nOil of cinnamon drm.\nOil of lavender Yz drm.\nOil of pimento Yz drm.\nNeroli, or ess. de petit grain Yz drm.\nMix in a stoppered bottle and agitate until\nthe whole of the camphor is dissolved. Very\nfine and highly esteemed.\n4. Camphor 1 oz.\nOil of cloves. 1 drm.\nOil of cedrat 40 grn.\nOil of lavender, Mitcham 40 grn.\nOil of bergamot 20 grn.\nOil of thyme ..20 grn.\nOil of cinnamon 10 grn.\nGlacial acetic acid Yz lb-\nMix as before. Very fine.\n5. Aromatic Rose Vinegar.— Macerate Ys lb.\ndried red roses in 1 qt. vinegar for two weeks.\nStir daily, filter, and bottle.\n6. Cologne extract 2 oz.\nAlcohol 3 pt.\nAcetic acid pt.\nOrange flower water Yz pt.\n7. Extract of cassia Yz pt.\nExtract of violet Yz pt.\nExtract of rose Yz pt.\nTincture of orris Yz pt.\nWhite wine vinegar 2 pt.\nDigest for ten days and filter.\n8. Camphor, 1 oz.; oil of cloves, 1 drm.; oil of\nlavender, 40 drops; oil of rosemary, 40 drops;\nglacial acetic acid, 10 oz\n9. Rosemary and thyme (origanum), of each,\ndried, 1 oz.; lavender flowers, dried, Yz oz.;\nbruised cloves, y 2 drm.; acetic acid, \\Yz pt.; di-\ngest for a week, filter and add camphor, lHj oz.\nBasil Vinegar, Burnt Vinegar, Celery Vine-\ngar, Cherville Vinegar, Elder Flower Vinegar,","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0599.jp2"},"596":{"fulltext":"Vinegars.\n584\nVinegars.\nGreen Mint Vinegar, Tarragon Vinegar are pre-\npared by adding to each pt. of vinegar 2 to 3 bz.\nof the leaves, the whole being frequently shaken\nfor fourteen days, then strained or filtered, and\nbottled.\nCamp Vinegar. 1. Vinegar, lYi qt.; walnut cat-\nsup, pt.; mushroom catsup, 4 tablespoon\nfuls; garlic, 6 heads; cayenne, oz.; soy, 3\ntablespoonf uls; port wine, 3 glasses; anchovies,\n4 glasses; salt, tablespoonf ul. Put in a bot-\ntle, shake daily for a month, decant.\n2. Sliced garlic, 8 oz.; Cayenne pepper, 4 oz.; soy,\n4oz.; walnut catsup, 4 oz.; 36 chopped anchovies;\nvinegar, 1 gal.; powdered cochineal, Yz oz. Mac-\nerate for a month, strain and bottle.\nCamphorated Vinegar, Camphorated Acetic\nAcid, Acidum, Aceticum Camphor atum.— This\nis simply a solution of about 2 oz. of camphor\nin each lb. glacial (or nearly glacial) acetic acid.\nThe following are pharmacopoeial formulae.\ntroy.\n1. Camphor oz.\navoir.\nRectified alcohol (to powder)... -j frops\nAcetic acid (E. Ph.) 6^ fl. oz.\nDissolve.\navoir.\n2. Camphor 1 oz.\ntroy.\nRectified alcohol 1 fl. drm.\nPulverize, and dissolve the powder in-\nStrong acetic acid 10 fl. oz.\nThese preparations were intended to super-\nsede the aromatic vinegar of the shops, and the\naromatic acetic acid of the former pharmaco-\npoeias. Though highly pungent and refreshing,\nthey are less agreeable than true aromatic\nvinegar, and lack its delightful fragrance. They\nare often used as fumigations, in fevers, etc.,\nand as an extemporaneous vesicant.\nChilli Vinegar.— Best vinegar, 1*4 Qt-; English\nchillies, 125, cut or bruised (or lb. Cayenne\npepper). Digest two weeks.\nChilli Vinegar.— Twenty-five chillies (peppers)\ncut and bruised (or Yk oz. Cayenne pepper), to Yi\npt. of the best vinegar. Digest for two weeks,\nstrain and bottle.\nCider Vinegar.— 1. Take, say 10 gallons new\ncider, and suffer it to ferment fully, winch will\nprobably be in about two weeks, if the weather\nbe warm; then add about 8 gals, of new cider\nfor producing a second fermentation, and in\nabout 2 weeks add a like quantity to produce a\nthird fermentation. Stop the bunghole of the\nbarrel with an empty bottle with the neck\ndownward, and expose to the sun. When the\nvinegar is come, set in a cool place. When mak-\ning, let there be a moderate degree of heat and\nfree access of external air. The process is has-\ntened by adding to the cider a quantity of\nmother of vinegar, as it is called, a whitish ropy\ncoagulum, of a mucilaginous appearance, which\nis formed in vinegar and acts as a ferment.\nThe strength of vinegar depends on the amount\nof sugar or starchy matter to be ultimately\nconverted into acetic acid. Cider made from\nlate apples is esteemed the best for vinegar.\n2. Put some of the cider in a clean cask and\nadd to it some vinegar containing abundance\nof mother of vinegar after some days, if the\nacetic fermentation has taken place and the\nsouring is going on, add another portion of the\ncider, and at similar intervals a third and a\nfourth. When the whole has become vinegar,\ntake out as much as is equal to the vinegar first\nput in, and replace by fresh cider, and so pro-\nceed. The casks should never be but partly\nfull; good exposure to air is necessary, and the\ntemperature should be kept up to 86° Fah.\n3. Cider worked as malt vinegar.\nVinegar (Cider), to Test the Purity of.— Place\nsome white sugar in a saucer, half fill with vin-\negar, and evaporate to dryness by placing on\ntop of a boiling water kettle. If the sugar\nturns black, the vinegar contains an adulterat-\ning acid. This test is of course not universal,\nbut is very simple and useful.\nVinaigre de Cologne.— To eau de Cologne, 1\npt., add strong acetic acid, Yi oz.\nCosmetic Vinegar, Piesse Lubin^s.—\nSpirit 1 qt.\nGum benzoin 3 oz.\nConcentrated aromatic vinegar. 1 oz.\nBalsam Peru 1 oz.\nOttoneroli.... 1 dr.\nOtto nutmeg Yz dr.\nThis is one of the best made.\nCrystal Vinegar. Pickling vinegar decolor-\nized with freshly burned animal charcoal.\nCulinary Vinegars. Black Pepper Vinegar,\nCaper Vinegar, Celery Seed Vinegar, Chilli Vin-\negar, Cress Seed Vinegar, Garlic Vinegar, Gin-\nger Vinegar, Horseradish Vinegar, Onion Vin-\negar, Red Rose Vinegar, Seville Orange Peel\nVinegar, Shallot Vinegar, Truffle Vinegar,\nWhite Pepper Vinegar, with several others of\na similar kind, are made by steeping about an\nounce of the respective articles in a pint of\ngood vinegar for fourteen days, and straining.\nCurrie Vinegar. Good currie powder, Yk lb-;\nvinegar, 1 gal.; infuse for a week. Used as\nflavoring.\nCurry Vinegar. Curry powder, 18 oz.; vinegar,\n1V£ gal. Infuse in a warm place 5 days. Used\nas a flavoring.\nDistilled Vinegar. Vinegar (preferably French)\n8 parts; distill over with a gentle heat 7 parts,\nand dilute the product, if necessary, with dis-\ntilled water, until the sp. gr. is 1*005.\nElder Flower Vinegar.— To every Yi peck of\nthe flowers, free from stalks, put 1 gal. of\nstrong ale vinegar; set in the sun in a stone jar\nfor a fortnight, then filter through a flannel\nbag; bottle off into quite small bottles.\nGerman Household Vinegar.— Soft water, 7YH\ngal.; honey or brown sugar, 2 lb.; cream of tar-\ntar, 2 oz.; corn spirit or whisky, 1 gal.\nGinger Vinegar.— Bruised ginger root, Yi lb.;\nvinegar, 6 qt.; macerate two weeks, strain.\nGooseberry Vinegar.— I. Bruised gooseberries,\n1J4 lb.; brown sugar, V/a lb.; water, 1 gal. Other\nfruits may be substituted for gooseberries.\n2. To every gal. of water put 1 qt. of full ripe\ngooseberries. Boil the water first, and let it\nstand till quite cold; then crush the fruit with\na wooden spoon, and add it to the water. Let\nit stand covered over for five days in a cool\nplace, stirring it twice every day; strain it at\nthe expiration of the five days through a hair\nsieve into a cask, and to every gallon of the\nliquor add 1J4 lb. of moist sugar. When it has\nstood for six months, bottle it.\nHealth Vinegar. (Vinaigre anti-Mephitique),\nBully.— To 7 qt. of water, take—\nAlcohol 4^ qt.\nEssence of bergamot 1 oz.\nEssence of lemon 1 oz.\nEssence of Portugal 3 drm.\nEssence of rosemary 6 drm.\nEssence of lavender 2 drm.\nEssence of neroli 1 drm.\nTincture of melisse 1 pt.\nMix the whole together, and, after twenty-\nfour hours repose, add—\nInfusion of storax 2 oz.\nInfusion of benzoin 2 oz.\nInfusion of cloves 2 oz.\nShake well again, then pour in 2 qt. of good\nvinegar, and after some hours filter, and mix\n3 oz. of strong acetic acid.\nHorseradish Vinegar.- Vinegar, 2 qt.; horse-\nradish root, scraped, 6 oz.; minced shallots, 1\noz.; Cayenne pepper, 2 drm. Let it stand for 2\nweeks.\nHygienie Vinegar.— Drandy, 1 pt.; otlfo of","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0600.jp2"},"597":{"fulltext":"Vinegars.\n585\nWafers.\ncloves, 1 drm.; otto of lavender, 1 drni.; otto of\nmarjoram, y 2 drm.; gum benzoin, 1 oz.; macer-\nate these together for a few hours, then add\nbrown vinegar, 2 pt.; and strain or filter if re-\nquisite to be bright.\nMarseilles Vinegar.— Four Thieves Vinegar,\nProphylactic Vinegar, Vinaigre cles Quatre\nVoleurs, Acetum Quator Furum. The original\nformula for this once celebrated preparation\nis\nRosemary tops, dried. 4 oz.\nSage flowers, dried 4 oz.\nLavender flowers, dried 2 I oz.\nRue, fresh \\y 2 oz.\nCamphor, dissolved in spirit 1 oz.\nGarlic, sliced. y± oz.\nCloves, bruised 1 drm.\nDistilled wine vinegar, strongest 1 gal.\nDigest for 7 or 8 days, with occasional agita-\ntion, pour off the liquor, press out the re-\nmainder, and filter the mixed liquids.\nIt is said that this medicated vinegar was in-\nvented by four thieves of Marseilles, who suc-\ncessfully employed it, as a prophylactic, dur-\ning a visitation of pestilence.\nRaisin Vinegar.— One cwt. of the marc left\nfrom making raisin wine, to every 12 or 15 gal.\n■of water, along with a little yeast.\nRaspberry Vinegar.— 1. Bruised ripe raspber-\nries, 3 pt.; white wine vinegar, 3 pt.; macerate\nfor three days, press, strain, and to each pint\nadd 1 lb. white sugar. Boil, skim, cool, and\nbottle at once two oz. of brandy to each pint\nis sometimes added. Cherry and strawberry\nvinegar may be made in a similar manner.\n2. Bruised ripe raspberries and white wine\nvinegar of each 3 pints macerate for 3 days,\npress, strain, and to each pint add 1 lb. of white\nsugar. Boil, skim, cool, and bottle at once.\nSome persons add 2 fi. oz. of brandy to each\npint.\n3. Fresh raspberries, 3 lb.; good vinegar, 2 lb.;\nmacerate in glass for two weeks, then strain\nwithout pressure. In a similar manner straw-\nberry vinegar, cherry vinegar, and the vinegars\nof like fruits may be made.\n4. -Add }4 Pt good vinegar to every qt. of\nraspberries, and let them soak for two or three\ndays; then bruise the berries, express the\nliquid, and to each pt. add 1 lb. of sugar. Boil\nit for twenty minutes, skim it, and when thor-\noughly cool, bottle it.\n5. Take any quantity of ripe red raspberries,\nplace them in a stoneware jar and add white\nwine or pure cider vinegar just sufficient to\n•cover them cover the jar closely and set aside\nfor five or six days in cool situation to infuse.\nNow remove the surface carefully and filter\nthe liquid add an equal quantity of sirup at 36°\nof strength; mix well together, bottle and\nkeep in a cold place. When used dilute with\nwater or with any kind of aerated mineral\n-waters.\nVinaigre a la Rose. Concentrated acetic acid,\n1 oz.; otto of roses, y, drm. Well shaken to-\ngether.\nSugar Vinegar. Four lb. of brown sugar to\neach gal. of water.\nSpiced Vinegars.— The following are given by\nthe Mineral Water Trades Review\nFor Gherkins.—\nGood malt vinegar 1 gal.\nBlack peppercorns 6 oz.\nSliced ginger 4 oz.\nChillies 1 oz.\nGarlic, in slices 1 oz.\nBoil the spices and garlic gently in half the\nvinegar for half an hour, strain through a\nsieve, and add the rest of the vinegar to the\nspices and again strain. To the remnant spices\nadd 2 oz. of salt and 1 pt. of water, and boil for\nhalf an hour. After removing from the fire\nadd 1 pt. of vinegar, and again strain into the\nspiced vinegar, which when perfectly cold may\nfoe poured over the gherkins.\nFor Walnuts (to be used hot).—\nGood malt vinegar 2 gal.\nBlack peppercorns y z lb.\nGinger, unbleached 6 oz.\nMustard seed i lb.\nCloves 2 oz.\nMace 2 oz.\nGarlic, in slices 2 oz.\nIn 1 gal. of vinegar boil the whole of the\nspices, and having strained, pour the hot liquor\nover the walnuts, then boil the remaining gal.\nof vinegar and pour over spices, etc. This\npickle takes some time to mature, but if prop-\nerly prepared should be ready for use in three\nmonths.\nFor French Beans.\nDistilled or very pale malt vine-\ngar 1 gal.\nWhite peppercorns 4 oz.\nBleached ginger (sliced) 2 oz.\nChillies 1 oz.\nInto Yz gal. of the vinegar place the whole of\nthe spices and allow to macerate for twelve\nhours, then simmer (do not boil) gently for one\nhour in an enameled pan, covering the top.\nTo be used hot.\nSulphuric Acid in Vinegar, to Detect.— We\nhave received so many letters on this subject\nthat we are compelled to decline publishing-\nmany good methods which our correspondents\nhave forwarded. The following, however, will\ngive housekeepers, and others to whom chemi-\ncal processes are not accessible, an opportunity\nof testing the purity of the article. The fol-\nlowing is Fresenius test, simplified for gene-\nral purposes: Put a wineglassful of the vinegar\ninto a china tea cup, and let the cup float in\nwater in a pt. cup of tin or other metal that\nwill stand heat. Boil the water till half the\nvinegar has evaporated, then drop into the cup\na piece of (cane) loaf sugar about the size of a\ngrn. of wheat. Continue the boiling till the\nliquid in the cup has evaporated, when, if the\nvinegar contains free sulphuric acid, the dry\nresidue will be found to be blackened. The\ncharring of the sugar is due to free sulphuric\nacid.\nTarragon Vinegar.— Put fresh tarragon leaves\nin a stone jar; add sufficient best wine vinegar\nto cover them. Keep in a warm place for two\nweeks; strain through cloth.\nToilet Vinegar (a la rose).— 1. Dried rose leaves,\n4 oz.; esprit de rose triple, pt.; white wine\nvinegar, 2 pt. Macerate in a close vessel for\ntwo weeks, then bottle.\n2. A la Violette\nExtract of cassie pt.\nExtract of orris M pt.\nEsprit de rose, triple pt.\nWhite wine vinegar 2 pt.\nWhisky Vinegar. Whisky, 1 pt.; sugar, 2\noz.; yeast a dessertspoonful.\nViolet Alloy. See Alloys.\nViolet Powder. See Powders.\nViolet Water. See Waters.\nViolin Bows, to Clean. See Cleans-\ning.\nViolins, Varnish for. See Varnishes.\nVitriol.— Blue, name for copper sulphate.\nGreen, name for copperas or iron sulphate.\nOil of vitriol, name for sulphuric acid.\nWhite Vitriol, name for zinc sulphate.\nVulcanite, to Cement. See Cements.\nVulcanite, to Polish. See Polishing.\nVulcanite, to Preserve.— Wash with am-\nmonia and rub with kerosene.\nWafers.— Flour Wafers.— -1. Mix fine wheat\nflour with water to a smooth pap, add coloring\nas required, pass the mixture through a sieve\nto remove any clots or lumps, fill the water\nirons (previously warmed and greased with","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0601.jp2"},"598":{"fulltext":"Walks.\n586\nWatchmakers.\nbutter or olive oil) with the batter, close them\ntight and expose them lor a short time to the\nheat of a clear charcoal fire. The whole must\nthen be allowed to cool, when the irons must\nbe opened and the thin cake, which is now hard\nand brittle, must be cut into wafers by means\nof sharp annular steel punches. The wafer\nirons consist of two plates of iron, united to-\ngether in a similar manner to a pair of pincers\nor tongs, and which when closed, leave a space\nbetween their internal surface proper for the\nthickness of wafers.\n2. Gelatine Wafers, Glue Wafers, Transparent\nWafers. Dissolve isinglass or the best pale glue\nin sufficient water to form a consistent mass\nwhen cold, pour it while hot upon the surface of\na warm, plate of mirror glass, slightly oiled, and\nsurrounded with a border of card paper, laid\nflat; next apply a similar plate, also warmed\nand oiled, and press the two into as close con-\ntact as is permitted by the card paper. When\ncold the thin cake of gelatine must be removed\nand cut into wafers with punches as before.\nWalker s Metals. See Alloys, Fusible.\nWalks, Gravel and Tar.— Take 2 parts\nvery dry lime rubbish and 1 part coal ashes, also\nvery dry, and both sifted fine. In a dry place,\non a dry day, mix them, and leave a hole in the\nmiddle of the heap as bricklayers do when mak-\ning, mortar. Into this pour boiling hot coal\ntar, mix, and when as stiff as mortar put in 3\nin. thick where the walk is to be; the ground\nshould be dry and beaten smooth; sprinkle\nover it coarse sand. When culd, pass a light\nroller over it; in a few days the walk will be\nsolid and waterproof.\nWall Papers to Clean. See Cleansing.\nWalls, Damp, Remedy for. Three-\nquarters lb of mottled soap to 1 gal. of water.\nThis composition to be laid over the brick work\nsteadily and carefully with a large flat brush, so\nas not to form a froth or lather on surface. The\nwash to remain twenty-fours hours, to become\ndry. Mix J^ lb. alum with 4 gal. water; leave\nit stand twenty-four hours, and then apply\nit in the same manner over the coating of soap.\nLet this be done in dry weather.\nWalls, Smoky, to Restore. See Cleans-\ning.\nWalnut (Doors), to Restore.— It will\nbe necessary to first remove the shellac. Much\nof it may be removed with a little ammonia\nwater and alcohol; but it is best to scrape off\nthe last portions, and sandpaper the wood, If\nthe wood is genuine walnut, a little oil will\nthen bring out the color, and it may be finished\nwith a good coat of copal varnish. If the doors\nare of imitation walnut, make solution of 2\noz. Vandyke brown in a boiling solution of V/z\noz. washing soda in 1 qt. water, and add to it\nabout 34 oz- powdered bichromate of pottassa.\nStir well together and when cool strain through\na cloth for use. This will give you an excel-\nlent imitation of dark walnut; and when dry,\nit takes a good coat of varnish.\nWalnut Stain. See Staining, wood.\nWarne s Metal. See Alloys.\nWarts.— A wart is a hypertrophy or over-\ngrowth of the papillae of the skin, and the\nepidermis covering them. There are four va-\nrieties Children s warts, venereal warts, senile\nwarts and common warts.\nChildren s warts grow principally on the\nhands and face of children.\nTreatment: Apply strong soda and water for\na few days, and then paint them with aethereal\ntincture of tannin. Or, having covered the\nskin around the wart thickly with lard, apply\nover the surface of the growth 1 or 2 drops\nof strong hydrochloric or nitric acid; then keep\nthe part covered up until the eschar or scab\nseparates.\nCommon Warts. Treatment as for chil-\ndren s.\nSenile Warts.— These occur on the skin of\nelderly persons; they are often the commence-\nment of a form of cancer known as epithe-\nlioma.\nTreatment Years of pain and perhaps a pre-\nmature death may be avoided if the part is\nthoroughly destroyed with strong acid. If the\npatient is afraid to do it himself, let him go to\na doctor.\nIf, after removal, these growths should show\na tendency to return, they may be freely\ntouched with nitrate of silver; or—\nMuriatic acid 1 drm.\nMuriated tincture of iron 3 drm.\nThree other applications may be mentioned\nacid nitrate of mercury, creosote, and diace-\ntate of lead lotion.\nAfter warts have been removed, their situa-\ntion is often marked by more or less visible\ncicatrix; this, however, being far less unsightly\nthan the wart itself. Hence, when these\ngrowths occur on the faces of children, es-\npecially girls, they may be left alone for a year\nor two, as they often disappear of themselves.\nAlso it will be better, in these cases, to try soda\nand tannin remedy already spoken of, before\nproceeding to severer measures. The situation\nof the growth, and the sex of the child, should\nalways be prominent factors in an argument\nas to treatment.\nWart Pomade.—\n1. Soap cerate. 2 oz.\nPowdered savin 2 drm.\nPowdered verdigris 2 drm.\nSpread the pomade on leather the size of the\nwart, keep it on overnight and repeat if neces-\nsary.\n2. Use a strong solution of chromic acid,\napplied three or four times. It is said that\nrepeated applications of whale oil will cause\nwarts to disappear.\n3. Warts may be removed by coal oil (kero-\nsene, applied twice daily.\n4. Castor oil constantly applied from 2 to 4 or 6\nweeks each day— that is, once a day— it has not\nfailed in my hands, says the writer, in any case\nof any size or long standing, The time it takes\nmay try the patience of the user, but if faith-\nfully used they will get their reward in the re-\nmoval of the wart without leaving any scar.\nTherapeutic Gazette.\nWarts, to Remove. See also Eschar-\notics.\nWashes for the Teeth. See the Teeth.\nWash, Black.— Charcoal, plumbago and\nsize.\nWash, White. See Whitewashes.\nWash, for Woodwork.— An iron wash\nfor woodwork can be made by taking- fine iron\nfilings, 1 part; brickdust, 1 part, and ashes 1\npart. Put them in glue water, warm, and stir\nwell together. Use two coats.\nWashing Powder.— A powdery mixture\ncomposed of effloresced soda, 91) parts; hyposul-\nphite of soda, 10 parts; and borax, 2 parts.\nUniversal Washing Powder.— This powder\nconsists of silicate of soda, with a small per-\ncentage of powdered soap and starch. See\nPowders, also Cleansing.\nWashing. See Cleansing.\nWastes, Photographic. See Photog-\nraphy.\nWatch Hands, to Make Red.— Mix to\na paste over a lamp, 1 oz. carmine, 1 oz. chloride\nof silver and oz. of tinners japan. Put some\nof the paste on the hands, and lay them face\nupward on a sheet of copper, holding it over\na spirit lamp until the desired color appears on\nthem.\nWatchmakers, Useful Notes for.— We\nfind the following in a recent number of the\nWatchmaker","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0602.jp2"},"599":{"fulltext":"Water.\n587\nWaterproofing.\nMain Springs. When a main spring- is\ncleaned, most inexperienced workmen will take\nhoid of one end and pull the spring about half\nits length straight out, to save time. This prac-\ntice will break springs when nothing else will\nand springs treated thus generally break after\nthe watch has been delivered to the customer\nonly a few days. Breaking into many pieces is\nowing to the acid in the oil which is used. We\nwill suppose the main spring is a fine one, and\nhas been evenly tempered and properly clean-\ned if, now, old oil is used, or that of an in-\nferior quality if fresh, the acid it contains will\neat into the spring, and will finally destroy its\ntexture. The coil nearest the center breaks\nfirst, and as it recoils it breaks every coil in the\nbarrel, and sometimes each coil is broken\ntwice. The spring has become so impregnated\nwith acid that it has no life left.\nTo Purify Oil.— To make the oil pure, take a\ngood sized bullet or other piece of lead which\nhas a thick coating of lead rust, cut it up fine,\nput it into the oil, and let it stand for two\nweeks. This causes the acid to settle, and it\nthen resembles milk at the bottom. Now pour\noff the top, and your oil is pure. Common\nclock oil can be treated in this manner and\nmade better than some Avatch oil.\nTo Restore Luster.— If not too much darken-\ned it may be restored by dipping the wheel in\npure muriatic acid. Test your acid by dipping\na piece of polished steel in it if it destroys the\npolish, reduce the acid with rain water until it\nwill not. Rinse the wheels well in water. This\nwill also restore the polish to steel that has\nbeen blued by heat.\nGrinding Glasses. Provide two pieces of\ncork, one concave and one convex (which may\nbe cut to shape after fitting to lathe). Take a\ncopper cent or other suitable article and soft\nsolder a screw to fit the lathe and then wax it\nto the cork then get a twenty-five cent emery\nwheel, such as is used on sewing machines, and\nyou have a complete outfit for cutting your\nwatch grasses. Polish the edge on the zinc col-\nlar of the emery wheel, or use a piece of zinc to\ndo it with emery. The other cork should be\nwaxed to a penny and centered. The spectacle\nlenses may be cut on the same emery wheel, if\nthe wheel is attached to lathe so as to revolve.\nAnother method is to take a common piece\nof window glass (green glass is the best) and\nmake a grindstone of that; using the flat sur-\nface to grind on. Cement it on a large chuck,\nthe glass being from 2 to 2 5 in. in diameter.\nAny one not familiar with this method would\nbe surprised to see how fast the glass is cut\naway, for either spectacles or watches. In\ngrinding watch glasses put them flat on the\nchuck glass— not on the edge.\nSome watchmakers are excusable for not\nkeeping a full supply of watch glasses on hand\nall the time, when it is remembered that there\nare over four thousand different sizes.\nWatchmakers Oil. See Oil.\nWater. For distilled, perfumed, mineral\nwaters, etc., see Waters.\nTo Keep Water for Fire Purposes from Freez-\ning.— JJse plenty of salt in the water.\nOdor of Water, to Prevent.— A handful of cop-\nperas to a barrel of water, which is for fire pur-\nposes, will prevent odors.\nTo Purify Water.— 1. Sprinkle in powdered\nalum in the proportion of a tablespoonful to\nten gallons. Stir it well together, and in a few\nhours all impurities will be found sent to the\nbottom.\n2. Alum gives excellent results when it has\nbeen found desirable to clarify muddy or tur-\nbid waters. See also Filters.\nWater, Simple Tests for. General. Evapo-\nrate by gentle heat a small sample of the water\nnearly to dryness in a clean porcelain cup,\nmoisten the residue with acetic acid, and add to\na portion of it a few drops of strong hydrosul-\nphuric acid— pure water saturated with the gas\nevolved by the action of dilute sulphuric acid\non iron mono-sulphide; a black precipate indi-\ncates lead. Add to another portion of the di-\nlute acetic acid solution a little pure hydro-\nchloric acid; a white precipitate, which redis-\nsolves on diluting with boiling water, indicates\nlead. To the remainder of the solution add a\nfew drops of dilute sulphuric acid and let it\nstand for a time; a white, heavy precipitate in-\ndicates lead.\n1. Test for Hard or Soft Water.— Dissolve a\nsmall quantity of good soap in alcohol. Let a\nfew drops fall into a glass of water. If it turns\nmilky, it is hard; if not, it is soft.\n2. Test for Earthy Matters or Alkali.— Take\nlitmus paper dipped in vinegai% and if, on im-\nmersion, the paper returns to its true shade,\nthe water does not contain earthy matter or\nalkali. If a few drops of syrup be added to a\nwater containing an earthy matter, it will turn\ngreen.\n3. Test for Carbonic Acid. Take equal\nparts of water and clear lime water. If com-\nbined or free carbonic acid is present, a pre-\ncipitate is seen, to which, if a few drops of mu-\nriatic acid be added, an effervescence com-\nmences\n4. Test for Magnesia.— Boil the water to a\ntwentieth part of its weight, and then drop a\nfew grains of neutral carbonate of ammonia\ninto a glass of it, and a few drops of phosphate\nof soda. If magnesia be present, it will fall to\nthe bottom.\n5. Test for Iron.— a. Boil a little nutgall and\nadd to the water. If it turns gray or slate\nblack, iron is present.\nb. Dissolve a little prussiate of potash, and,\nif iron is present, it will turn blue.\n6. Test for Lime— Into a glass of water put\ntwo drops of oxalic acid and blow upon it. If\nit gets milky, lime is present.\n7. Test for Acid.— Take a piece of litmus paper.\nIf it turns red, there must be acid. If it pre\ncipitates on adding lime water, it is carbonic\nacid. If a blue sugar paper is turned red, it is\na mineral acid.\nWaterproof Blacking. See Blacking.\nWaterproof Cement, See Cements.\nWaterproof Gloves. See Gloves.\nWaterp roofing. —The art of rendering fab-\nrics impervious to moisture has attained con-\nsiderable importance, especially in the case of\nclothing materials. The manufacture of rub-\nber goods, as well as the cuprammonium pro-\ncess, has been purposely left out, as these pro-\ncesses are complicated, and belong more prop-\nerly to a book of processes than to a receipt\nbook.\nBoots, Waterproofing.— 1. A coat of gum copal\nvarnish applied to the soles of boots and shoes,\nand repeated as it dries until the pores are\nfilled and the surface shines like polished ma-\nhogany, will make the sole waterproof, and it\nlasts three times longer. See also Leather\nbelow.\n2. Linseed oil 1 part.\nMutton tallow lb.\nBeeswax 14 lb.\nMelt and mix thoroughly together and apply\nto the warm dry leather with a brush. A small\nquantity of ivory black is sometimes added to\nthis mixture.\nBrick Walls, to Waterproof.— Use boiled oil.\nFishing Lines, Waterproofing— 1. Two parts\nboiled oil, 1 part gold size, put in a bottle, shake\nwell and it is ready for use. Apply with a piece\nof flannel, expose to the air and dry. After\nusing the line two or three times it should have\nanother coat, the application being repeated\nwhen necessary.\n2. Apply a mixture of 2 parts boiled linseed\noil and 1 part good size; expose to the air and\ndry.\nFelt Hats.— I. The stuff of coarse hat bodies is\nimbued with drying oil, prepared by boiling 50\nparts linseed oil with 1 part each of white lead.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0603.jp2"},"600":{"fulltext":"Waterproofing,\n588\nWaterp roofing.\nlitharge and umber. The felt to be dried in a\nstove and then polished by pumice; 5 or 6 coats\nof oil are required; the surface is at last var-\nnished. When the hat is intended to be stiff,\nthe fabric is to be impregnated, first of all\nwith paste, then stove dried, cut into the de-\nsired shape, and pumiced repeatedly; lastly\nplaced in a hot iron mould and exposed to strong\npressure.\n2. Kemove lining of hat and paint the inside\nwith Canada balsam, made hot. Hats made\nwaterproof and not ventilated will bring on\npremature baldness; so punch a few small holes\nin the side.\n3. Boil 8 lb. shehac, 3 lb. frankincense, and 1\nlb. borax in sufficient water.\nLeather.— 1. Add to a boiling solution of\ncommon yellow soap, in water, solution of\nalum or alum cake (alumina sulphate) as long\nas a separation of white alumina soap takes\nplace allow the precipitate to subside, wash it\nwith hot water, heat moderately for some time,\nto expel adhering water, and dissolve the semi-\ntransparent mass in warm oil of turpentine.\nThe solution may be applied by brush, or by\ndipping and rolling. Oil and colors may be\nadded to the bath, and the substance dried in\nthe air, or more rapidly in drying room at\n90°-100° F. (32°-38° C), with care to prevent fire.\n2. Best white or yellow wax 100 oz.\nBurgundy pitch 6 oz.\nGround nut oil 8 oz.\nIron sulphate 5 oz.\nEssence of thyme 2 oz.\n3. A method of waterproofing leather and\nraw hides, used in Southern Austria, is as fol-\nlows impregnate the substance with a gela-\ntine solution, mixed with some mineral salt to\ncoagulate the gelatine in the pores. The fol-\nlowing mixtures can be used\n1,200 water, 15 gelatine, 5 potash bichro-\nmate.\n4. One thousand five hundred water, 50 gela-\ntine, 30 potash bichromate; the temperature of\nthe solution may vary from 53° F. (10° C.) to\nboiling point. When the bichromate percent-\nage is small, the liquor is used cold, and the\nleather or hide is immersed for twenty-four\nhours; as the proportion approaches the point\nof saturation, the temperature must approxi-\nmate more nearly to boiling, and the time of\nimmersion be reduced until it becomes momen-\ntary. The bichromate solution may be replaced\nby the following 1,000 water, 10 gelatine, 100\nlead acetate, 100 alum; in every case, after im-\npregnation on one or both sides, the leather or\nhide should be dried, and dressed on both sides\nwith paraffin.\n5. F or rendering hose of fire engines com-\npletely watertight, so as to withstand the\ngreatest pressure, the hose, after being cleaned\nand dried, is impregnated with a mixture of\n100 parts of glycerine and 3 parts of carbolic\nacid, which may be done either by drawing the\nhose through the liquid, or, better still, by\nbrushing it well in. Thus treated, the hose\npreserves a certain degree of dampness, with-\nout, however, being liable to rotting in the\nleast degree, and so suffering deterioration in\nquality and durability. The brass fittings of\nthe hose are attacked only imperceptibly by the\nacid contained in the composition; but even\nthis may be easily prevented by giving them\nbefore impregnation a coating of weak shellac\nvarnish, or by greasing them Avell with tallow.\nThe hose must be cleaned every time they have\nbeen used, dried, and impregnated anew with\nthe liquid. The previous drying of the hose is.\nhowever, not necessarily esential, more espec-\nially in winter, when drying is slightly difficult;\nit suffices to let the water run well out of the\nhose.\n6. For Boots and Shoes.— Apply to the soles as\nmuch copal varnish as they will absorb, and\ncastor oil to the uppers. The castor oil does\nnot prevent subsequent blacking.\n7. One oz. beeswax; y% oz. suet; 2 oz. olive oil;\nY% oz. lampblack; melt the wax and suet in the\noil, add the lampblack, and sfc k* till cool; warm\nthe shoes and rub in the compound.\n8. Warm the boots by fire then apply and rub\nin paraffin wax; it is, however, apt to soil the\nstockings by being melted out by the heat of\nthe feet. A saturated solution of paraffin wax\nin cold naphtha, applied cold, is perhaps better.\n9. Mix together in a pipkin, on the lire, 2\nparts tallow to 1 part of rosin, and having thor-\noughly warmed the boots, apply it, melted, with\na painter s brush, till they will not soak in any\nmore. If the boots are well polished before ap-\nplying the mixture, they will polish after-\nward.\n10. Take about 1 gill of Macintosh s India\nrubber waterproofing solution, dissolve it in\n2 gills raw linseed oil, adding the oil to the solu-\ntion gradually. With this liquor paint the\nboots, giving as manj r coats, at intervals of\nsix or eight hours, to the leather as it will take\nin, which may be as many as 10 or 12. The pre-\npared leather takes a brilliant polish.\n11. To Render Leather, Paper, etc., Imper-\nmeable. MM. Huleux and Dreyfus advise the\nemployment of the following mixture, which\noperates according to the quantity and pro-\nportion of the materials added\nWhite or yellow wax, first\nquality 1000 grm.\nBurgundy pitch 60 grm.\nOil of arachide 80 grm.\nSulphate of iron 50 grm.\nEssence of thyme 20 grm.\nPaper.— 1. It is a well-known fact that cellu-\nlose is soluble in cuprous ammonia solution; pa-\nper, linen and other vegetable tissues laid there-\nin undergo a sort of surface amalgamation of\nthe fibers, which alters their absorbent powers.\nA sheet of paper so treated, and dried after-\nward, becomes impermeable to water, and this\nproperty is not effaced by subsequent boiling.\nSheets of paper soaked in the solution and laid\none upon the other and rolled, become amalga-\nmated into a kind of cardboard, possessing\ngreat elasticity and cohesive power. The cup-\nrous solution may be prepared by agitating\ncopper filings in a closed vessel containing liq-\nuid ammonia of 0 88 sp. gr.\n2. Dissolve 8 oz. alum and o% oz. Castile soap\nin 4 pt. water, and 2 oz. gum arabic and 4 oz.\nglue, separately, in 4 pt. water; mix the solu-\ntions, heat slightly, dip in the single sheets, and\nhang un until dry.\n3. Waterproofing pasteboard may be effected\nwith a mixture of 4 parts slaked lime in 3 parts\nskimmed milk, with a little alum added. As\nsoon as mixed, the pasteboard is brushed over\nwith two successive coatings of the preparation,\nand thus becomes impervious to water.\n4. Take pale shellac, 5 oz.; borax, 1 oz.; water,\n1 pt. Digest at nearly the boiling point till dis-\nsolved, then strain. This forms also an excellent\nvehicle for water colors, inks, etc. If required\nquite transparent, the lac should be bleached\nas follows Dissolve shellac in a lye of pearl-\nash, by boiling; filter and pass an excess of\nchlorine gas through the solution, which will\nprecipitate the white lac. Wash and dry the\nprecipitate, and cast it if desired into sticks.\n5. To make waterproof packing paper, dis-\nsove 1% lb. white soap in 1 qt. water. In ano-\nther qt. of water dissolve V/z oz. gum arabic\nand 5 oz. glue. Mix the 2 solutions, warm\nthem, soak the paper in the liquid, and pass it\nbetween rollers, or simply hangup to dry.\n6. Even old newspapers may be converted\ninto waterproof roofing material by applying\ncoats of hot coal tar with a brush, uniting two\nor more thicknesses.\n7. Rendering paper impervious to grease and\nwater. Parchment paper is plunged into a\nwarm solution of concentrated gelatine, to\nwhich has been added 2}4 to 3% glycerine, and\nallowed to dry. The resulting paper is imper-\nvious to grease. If desired to make a paper\nwaterproof, the same parchment paper is dip-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0604.jp2"},"601":{"fulltext":"Waterproofing.\n589\nWaterproofing.\nped in carbon bisulphide containing 1% linseed\noil and 4$ India rubber.\n8. A strong-, impervious parchment paper is\nobtained by thoroughly washing woolen or\ncotton fabrics, so as to remove gum, starch\nand other foreign bodies, then immersing them\nin a bath containing a small quantity of paper\npulp. The latter is made to penetrate the\nfabric by being passed between rollers. Thus\nprepared, it is afterward dipped into sul-\nphuric acid of suitable concentration, and then\nrepeatedly washed in a bath of aqueous ammo-\nnia until every trace of acid has been removed.\nFinally, it is pressed between rollers to remove\nthe excess of liquid, dried between two other\nrollers which are covered with felt, and lastly\ncalendered. The product is suitable for dia-\nphragms in dialytic operations.\n9. Treat the tissue to be waterproofed with\nchloride, sulphate, or other soluble salt or salts\nof zinc or cadmium, in conjunction with am-\nmonia, applied in the form of a solution com-\nposed of about 3 parts crystallized zinc sul-\nphate or 3 parts of a solution of zinc chloride\nat 96° Tw. (47° B.), and about 2 parts of a solu-\ntion of ammonia of sp. gr. 875. The paper\nwhich it is proposed to treat is passed through\na cisteim lined with lead, and specially con-\nstructed for this purpose, with an arrange-\nment of rollers, so as to allow the material to\npass throug-h at a speed varying from thirty to\nthirty-six yards per minute, according to the\nthickness. In its passage through the liquor,\nthe material becomes perfectly saturated.\nFrom the bath it passes through a pair of\nsqueezing rollers, which remove the superflu-\nous liquor, and harden it by compression.\nFrom the rollers it is next passed to a suspend-\ning apparatus, then hung along the room in\nfolds in a temperature of 110° F. (43° C), until\nit is sufficiently dry to be taken down. The\nrollers in the cistern, the squeezing rollers, and\nthe suspending apparatus are so speeded that\nthe material is taken from one to the other\nwithout any inconvenience or stoppage.\n10. Treat with glue, gelatine, or other similar\nsubstances, in conjunction with bichromate or\nchrOmate of potash, soda or alumina, applied\nin the form of a solution of about 1 part glue\nor gelatine in about 8 parts of water at 160° F.\n(71° C.) and a solution of 1 part potash bichro-\nmate in 15 parts of water. The mode of treat-\nment in thds case differs from 9 only in two\npoints.\na. During the time the material is traversing\nthe bath, as already described, the solution is\nmaintained at 160- F. (71° C.) by means of siphon\npipes charged with steam.\nb. Instead of suspending to dry, the material\nis immediately passed over three steam cylin-\nders 7 ft. in diameter, carrying a pressure of 15\nto 20 lb. to the square inch. The cylinders are\nprovided with gauges to indicate the pressure\nthey are required to carry, and also with safety\nvalves to prevent this pressure from being ex-\nceeded. The bath must always be kept in a\nstate of darkness.\n11. The paper is treated with acetate, sul-\nphate or chloride of alumina, applied in the\nform of a solution of 1 part of any of these\ncompounds in 6 parts of water at 160° F. (71° C).\nThe same conditions are required to produce\na waterproof material with these compounds\nas those described in 9 and 10, with this differ-\nence, that it is not absolutely necessary to pre-\nserve darkness during the process.\nWaterproof Paper Varnishes.— 12. Pulverize\n1 lb. shellac and put it into a bottle with a suf-\nficient quantity of alcohol to cover the resin\ncork the bottle tightly, and keep it in a warm\nplace until the resin is dissolved. To 1 qt. of\nthe liquid add 1 oz. ivory black and y z oz. cam-\nphor dissolved in alcohol. Apply with a var-\nnish brush. If too thick to work well, thin\nwith alcohol.\n13. Johnson s green vitriol is dissolved in\nwater, a solution of soap is added to this, and\nthe px^ecipitate of iron soap which is formed is\ncollected. When this precipitate has become\ndry, and is then dissolved in carbon bisulphide,\nor in benzole, a fluid is obtained which leaves\nbehind a waterproof layer upon paper or tissue.\nIf the paper or tissue is to remain white, a so-\nlution of alum is used instead of that of green\nvitriol, and a white aluminum soap is then ob-\ntained, which is used in the same manner.\n14. Take 4 oz. clean gutta pereha, dissolve inl\nlb. rectified rosin oil add 2 lb. linseed oil var-\nnish, boiling hot.\n15. One part dammar resin 4 6 parts acetone\nare digested in a closed flask for two weeks,\nand the clear solutionis poui-ed off. To this\n4 parts collodion are added, and the whole is\nallowed to clear by standing.\n16. Thirty parts white shellac are digested\nwith 500 parts ether, and to the solution 15\nparts lead carbonate are added; it is then\nshaken for some time and l-epeatedly filtered.\n17. Five parts glue are dissolved in 100 parts\nwarm water, and this solution is spread on pa-\nper. After drying, the paper is soaked for an\nhour in a 10$ solution of alumina acetate and\nagain dried, in order to give it a final glaze.\n18. One hundred and twenty parts linseed oil\nare heated and poured into a mixture of 33\nparts quicklime and 22 parts water, to which 55\nparts melted rubber have been added, stirring\nall the time. The varnish is strained and used\nhot.\n19. One pai t gutta pereha is carefully digest-\ned in 40 parts benzene on the water bath, and\nthe paper is covered with it. This varnish can\nbe drawn or written on, and it does not render\nthe paper transparent or spotted.\n19. According to the Journ. Soc. of Arts, a\nstrong, impervious parchment paper is ob-\ntained by thoroughly washing woolen or cot-\nton fabrics, so as to remove gum, starch, and\nother foreign bodies, then to immerse them in\na bath containing a small quantity of paper\npulp. The latter is made to penetrate the fab-\nric by being passed between rollers. Thus pre-\npared, it is afterward dipped into sulphuric\nacid of suitable concentration, and then re-\npeatedly washed in a bath of aqueous ammonia\nuntil every trace of acid has been removed.\nFinally, it is pressed between rollers to remove\nthe excess of liquid, dried between two other\nrollers which are covered with felt, and lastly\ncalendered.\n20. Soak good paper in an aqueous solution\nof shellac and borax. It resembles parchment\npaper in some respects. If the aqueous solution\nbe colored with aniline colors, very handsome\npaper is prepared, which is used for artificial\nflowers. Science Record, 1875.\n21. Melt in 10 pt. hot water, 30 oz. glue, gela-\ntine, or size, and 3 oz. gum arabic. In an-\nother 30 pt. hot water melt 2 oz. of soap and 4\nlb. alum. Mix both liquids together in one pot.\nThis constitutes compound Mo. 1. In another\npot heat Y% gal. benzol and 1 gal. paraffine, and\nmelt in it 24 oz. resin; let it boil until it attains\na moderate degree of consistency. To these\nmaterials, resin, oil and copal or mastic varnish\nmay, in some cases, be added. This is composi-\ntion No. 2. First dip the article to be water-\nproofed into the composition M T o. 1, in a heated\nstate, and then dry it. Next apply No. 2 in a\ncooled state with a brush or in any other con-\nvenient manner. Care should be taken to avoid\nigniting the benzol, as it is highly inflam-\nmable.\n22. Packing paper may be made water-tight\nby dissolving 1*8 lb. of white soap in 1 qt. of\nwater, and in a another quart 18 oz. of gum\narabic and 55 of glue. The paper is soaked in\nthe mixture and hung up to dry.\n23. Treat the paper with a mixture of cam-\nphor oil and linseed oil.\nPasteboard.— Waterproofing pasteboard may\nbe effected with a mixture of 4 parts of slaked\nlime into 3 parts of skimmed milk, with a lit-\ntle alum added. As soon as mixed, the paste%","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0605.jp2"},"602":{"fulltext":"Waterproofing.\n590\nWaterproofing.\nboard is brushed over with 2 successive coat-\nings of the preparation, and thus becomes im-\npervious to water.\nTextiles.— Without considering the methods\nby which cloth is waterproofed with rubber,\nthere are several processes in practical use by\nwhich cloth is rendered non-absorbent of water\n—and for all practical purposes waterproof—\nwithout materially affecting- its color or ap-\npearance, greatly increasing its weight, or ren-\ndering it entirely air proof. These depend\nmainly upon the reaction between two or more\nsubstances, in consequence of which a substance\ninsoluble in water is deposited in the fibers of\nthe cloth.\n1. Lowry s Process.— Two oz. soap, 4 oz. glue,\n1 gal. water. Soften the glue in cold water,\nand dissolve it together with the soap in the\nwater by aid of heat and agitation. The cloth\nis filled with this solution by boiling it in the\nliquid for several hours, the time required de-\npending upon the kind of fiber and thickness\nof the cloth. When properly saturated, the ex-\ncess of liquid is wrung out, the cloth is exposed\nto the air until nearly dry, then digested for\nfive to twelve hours in the following solution\nAlum 13 oz.\nSalt 15 oz.\nWater 1 gal.\nIt is finally wrung out, rinsed in clean water,\nand dried at a temperature of about 80° F. (27°\nC).\n2. Paut s process requires a email quantity\nof oil, but in other respects resembles the last.\nIt is given as follows\nSodium carbonate 1 lb.\nCaustic lime y% lb.\nWater 2y 2 pt.\nBoil together, let it stand to settle, then draw\noff the clear lye and add to it 1 lb. tallow, y% lb.\nrosin, previously melted together. Boil and\nstir occasionally for half an hour, then intro-\nduce 3 oz. glue (previously softened), 3 oz. lin-\nseed oil and continue the boiling and stirring\nfor another half hour. In waterproofing,\noz. of this soap is mixed with 1 gal. hot water,\nand in this the goods are soaked for about\ntwenty-four hours, according to thickness and\ncharacter. The pieces are allowed to drain\nuntil partly dried, then soaked for six hours or\nmore in a solution prepared as follows\nAluminum sulphate 1 lb.\nLead acetate y% lb.\nWater 8 gal.\nShake together, allow to settle, and draw off\nthe clear liquid. Wring out after rinsing and\ndry at a temperature of 80° F. (27° C).\n3. Bienvaux uses instead of glue and oil as\nabove, the gelatinous portion of sea wrack\ngrass with a small quantity of a drying oil and\ncommon rosin soda soap.\n4. In Reimann s process the cloth is passed\nslowly by machinery through a tank divided\ninto three compartments, the first containing\na warm solution of alum, the second a warm\nsolution of lead acetate, and the third pure\nwater, which is constantly renewed. The cloth,\non passing from the latter, is brushed, and\nbeaten to remove the salt adhering to the sur-\nface, and finally hot pressed and brushed. In\nthis case lead sulphate is deposited in the\nfibers.\n5. In Townsend s process two solutions are\nused as follows:\nDextrine 20 lb.\nWhitesoap 10 lb.\nWater 16 gal.\nThe solution is boiled for some minutes, and\nif color is required, 1 pt. logwood liquor is\nadded. The second solution consists of a satu-\nrated solution of alum in water or 6 lb. zinc\nsulphate, 9 gal. water.\n6. Bullard s process is somewhat similar to\nReimann s. In this strong aqueous solutions of\naluminum sulphate and lead acetate are used\nalternately.\n7. Berlin waterproof cloth is said to be pre-\npared by saturating the cloth in a solution of\naluminum and copper acetate, then dipping\nit successively in water glass and rosin soap.\nSci. Am.\n8. A bath heated to 194° F. (90° C.) is made of\n13J4 lb. liquid Bordeaux turpentine, 3J4 lb. tal-\nlow, 1 lb. wax, and y% lb. storax the articles\nare immersed for a few minutes, then passed,\nbetween heated rollers to remove excess.\n9. For some time past the Belgium War De-\npartment has conducted a series of experi-\nments at Valvorde, on the waterproofing of\nsoldiers uniforms by means of liquid alumina.\nWith respect to the hygienic side of the ques-\ntion, the medical authorities have satisfied\nthemselves that the articles of dress thus\ntreated permit the perspiration to pass off\nfreely, and chemical analysis has proved that\nthe preparation used in no way injures the ma-\nterials or destroys their color. More than\n10,0U0 yd. of materials, redressed 2 or 3 times\nover, notwithstanding the rinsing and washing\nto which they have been subjected after having\nbeen soiled, and after constant wear, remained\nperfectly waterproof. The only drawback to\nthe process appears to be that it is not very\neconomical, and, to insure the desired result,\nmust be conducted on a large scale, which re-\nquires a considerable amount of plant. The\nfollowing is the process employed; Alumina\nacetate is obtained by making solutions of\nequal parts of alum and lead acetate in separate\nvessels, and then mixing them together. Lead\nsulphate will be thrown down, leaving alumina\nacetate in solution, which must be decanted.\nThe materials to be waterproofed are soaked in\nthis solution, and then withdrawn without\nbeing wrung, and dried in the air.\n10. Bellefroid produces an impermeable coat-\ning, which consists firstly of a solution of stear-\nine pitch, one of the by-products of candle\nmaking, which pitch, in order to be used in the\nfabrication of the compound, is previously\ncompletely oxidized by exposure to the air. In\norder to complete this oxidization, the pitch is\nspread out in very thin layers, and exposed to\nthe outer atmosphere for a period of at least two\nyears. This exposure is absolutely necessary,\njudging from experiments repeatedly made.\nThe solution is afterward effected in the fol-\nlowing manner A mixture consisting of 75 lb.\nstearine pitch, 150 lb. water, and 5 lb. caustic\nsoda at about 35° to 36°, is put into a boiler or\nvessel of any suitable shape, having a second or\ndouble bottom so as to allow of the removal of\nimpurities which will settle at the bottom of\nthe vessel. The mixture is boiled for twelve\nhours over a strong fire, after which 52 pt. of\nwater are added, and the boiling is continued\nfor another twelve hours. The solution thus\nobtained is then poured out in an open vessel,\nand left exposed to the open air for eight days,\nfor the purpose of being clarified, and enabling\nthe impurities to settle at the bottom.\n11. Piron has invented a process for tanning\ntextile fabrics, which renders them waterproof,\nand at the same time, it is said, proof against\ndecay, while their suppleness is not diminished,\nand their weight not appreciably increased.\nArguing from the high state of preservation in\nwhich the bands which surround the heads of\nEgyptian mummies are found to this day, and\nwhich are impregnated with a kind of resin,\nPiron had recourse to the substance extracted\nfrom birch bark, and which is now used to per-\nfume Russia leather. When the fine white bark\nof the birch tree is distilled, it yields a light oil,\nnearly 34 of which consists of the special\nphenol, or carbolic acid, which gives the well-\nknown odor to Russia leather. It is now\nfound that the residue, or green tar of the\nbirch, which is obtained from Kostroma, yields\nneither acid nor alkaloid, and it forms, with\nalcohol, a solution of great fluidity, which.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0606.jp2"},"603":{"fulltext":"Waterp roofing.\n591\nWaterp roofing.\nhowever, when once dried, is unacted upon by\nalcohol. It is this substance, which will unite\nwith the most brilliant colors, that is used by\nPiron for treating textile fabrics. Not only\ndose it fill the capillary vessels, but it also coats\nthem with a varnish of great elasticity, which\nis unattackable by acids and sea water, while it\nalso stands great changes of temperature. The\naromatic odor of articles thus treated drives\naway insects; there is no space for microscopic\nvegetation, and neither air nor water can pene-\ntrate into the tissues. This process is applicable\nto all vegetable products, such as sailcloth,\ncordage, blinds and awnings.\n12. Sackcloth or canvass can be made as im-\npervious to moisture as leather, by steeping it\nin a decoction of 1 lb. oak bark with 14 lb. boil-\ning water. This quantity is sufficient for 8 yd.\nof stuff. The cloth has to soak for 24 hours,\nwhen it is taken out, passed through running\nwater, and hung up to dry. The flax and hemp\nfibers, in absorbing the tannin, are at the same\ntime better fitted to resist wear.\n13. Waterproof Coat.— Isinglass, alum, soap,\n•equal parts; water sufficient. Dissolve each\nseparately, and mix the solution, with which\nimbue the cloth on the wrong side. Dry and\nbrush the cloth well, first with a dry brush,\nand afterward (lightly) with a brush dipped in\n•water.\n14. For Awning or Apron.— Dissolve 1 oz.\nyellow soap in X% pt. water by boiling; then\nstir in 1 qt. boiled oil, and when cold add 34 pt.\ngold size.\n15. Seamen s Oilskins.— The material should\nbe fine twilled calico, dipped in bullock s blood\nand well dried in a current of air then 2 or 3\n•coats of raw linseed oil with a little gold size or\nlitharge in it (say 1 oz. to 1 pt. of oil). Each\ncoat should be allowed to dry thoroughly be-\nfore the next is put on (as before in a current\nof air, care being taken to shelter it from both\nsun and rain). Oilskins made in this way, both\nhere and in the tropics, have stood for years.\n16. Waterproofing Linen or Calico The\nManner in Which Sea Fisherman do Coats and\nLeggings.— Whatever the article is, let it be\nstretched on a table. Make very thick paint of\nwhatever color is wished. An invisible green\nis, perhaps, as good as any. Take a large lump\nof common brown soap, pretty freshly cut\nfrom a bar, in the left hand, and every time\nyou replenish the brush with paint rub well on\nthe soap, and take up as much as possible, and\nrub well on one surface of the calico or linen.\nIt will take long to do, and should be hung in\nthe windiest place you can find. Summer is the\nbest time, but a month will see it in very usable\norder, and you will have as supple and perfect-\nly waterproof garment as paint can make.\nAfter wearing a few times, a second coat would\nbe advisable, which will dry in half the time of\nthe first, and must be done in the same way.\n17. For Canvas.— A solution containing equal\nparts by weight of gelatine and chrome alum.\nIt is not advisable to mix more of the solution\nat once than is sufficient to give the canvas\none coat, as, if the mixture once sets, it cannot\nbe reliquefied like a plain solution of gelatine,\nand hence, if the quantity of canvas to be\nwaterproofed is but small, it would, perhaps,\nbe preferable to coat with plain gelatine solu-\ntion until quite impervious to cold water, and\nthen to thoroughly soak for, say, twenty -four\nhours in a strong solution of chrome alum.\n18. For Sail Cloth.— Grind 96 lb. English ocher\nwith boiled oil, and add to it 16 lb. black paint.\nDissolve 1 lb. yellow soap in 1 pail of water on\nthe fire, and mix it while hot with the paint.\nLay this composition, without wetting it, upon\nthe canvas as stiff as can conveniently be done\nwith the brush, so as to form a smooth surface;\nthe next day, or the day after (if the latter, so\nmuch the better), lay on a second coat of ocher\nand black, with a very little, if any, soap; allow\nthis coat a day to dry, and then finish the can-\nvas with black paint.\n19. For Woolens. —Boil 43-£ oz. white soap in\n234 gal- water, and separately dissolve 5% oz.\nalum in 2V£ gal. water. Heat the two solutions\nto 190° F. (88° C), pass the fabric first through\nthe soap bath and then through the alum, and\nfinally dry in the open air.\n20. Oil Cloth. The manner of making oil\ncloth or oil skin was at one period a mystery.\nThe process is now well understood, and is\nequally simple and useful. Dissolve some good\nresin or lac over the fire in drying linseed oil,\ntill the resin is dissolved, and the oil brought\nto the thickness of a balsam. If this be spread\nupon canvas or any other linen cloth, so as\nfully to drench and entirely to glaze it over,\nthe cloth, if then suffered to dry thoroughly,\nwill be quite impenetrable to wet of every de-\nscription. This varnish may either be worked\nby itself or with some color added to it; as ver-\ndigris for a green; umber for a hair color; white\nlead and lampblack for a gray; indigo and white\nfor a light blue, etc. To give the color, you\nhave only to grind it Avith the last coat of var-\nnish you lay on. You must be as careful as\npossible to lay on the varnish equally in all\nparts.\n21. A better method, however, of preparing\noilcloth is first to cover the cloth or canvas\nwith a liquid paste, made witti drying oil in the\nfollowing manner: Take Spanish white or\npipe clay which has been completely cleaned\nby washing and sifting it from all impurities,\nand mix it up with boiled oil, to which a drying\nquality has been given by adding a dose of\nlitharge, 34 the weight of the oil. This mixture,\nbeing brought to the consistence of thin paste,\nis spread over the cloth or canvas by means of\nan iron spatula, equal in length to the breadth\nof the cloth. When the first coating is dry,\na second is applied. The roughness occa-\nsioned by the coarseness of the cloth or the\nunequal application of the paste are smoothed\ndown with pumice, reduced to powder, and\nrubbed over the cloth with a bit of soft serge\nor cork dipped in water. When the last coat-\ning is dry, the cloth must be well washed in\nwater to clean it; and, after it is dried, a var-\nnish composed of lac dissolved in linseed oil\nboiled with turpentine is applied to it, and the\nprocess is complete. The color of the varnished\ncloth thus produced is yellow; but different\ntints can be given to it in the manner already\npointed out. An improved description of this\narticle, intended for printed and figured var-\nnished cloths, is obtained by using a finer paste\nand cloth of a more delicate texture.\n22. Varnished Silk.— This material, often em-\nployed for umbrellas, is prepared much in the\nsame manner as 21, but Avith a paste composed\nof linseed oil boiled with 34 litharge. 16 parts\ndried and sifted pipe clay, 3 parts of litharge\nvery finely ground, dried, and sifted, and I part\nof lampblack. After washing the silk, fat\ncopal A^arnish is applied instead of that used\nfor oil cloth.\n23. For Linen.— A solution of alumina sul-\nphate in 10 times its Aveiyht of Avater, and a\nsoap bath of the following composition 1 oz.\nlight colored rosin and 1 oz. crystallized soda\nare boiled in 10 oz. Avater until dissolved. The\nrosin soap is precipitated with 34 oz. table salt.\nand is subsequently dissoh-ed along with 1 oz.\nAvhite curd soap in 30 oz. hot water. It should\nbe put in Avooden tubs for use. On made up\narticles, the two solutions can be applied with a\nbrush and then rinsed off.\n24. Parone, of Turin, proposes the follOAving\nmethod of rendering textures waterproof: In\n14 pt. water, heated to about 180° P. (83° C),\ndissolve 1034 lb. gelatine and 2\\ lb. castor oil\nsoap; then add 1034 lb. lac, shaking the liquid\ntill the lac is completely dissoh-ed. Take it off\nthe fire, and add to the mixture in small quan-\ntities at a time 21 lb. powdered alum, shaking\nit till the alum is dissoh-ed. The liquid thick-\nens, forming an insoluble alumina soap which\nremains closely incorporated with the gelatine","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0607.jp2"},"604":{"fulltext":"Waterproofing.\n592\nWaterproofing\nand lac. It is spread over the textures with a\nbrush.\n25. Cooley gives the following recipe for\nwaterproofing, which appears to have the ad-\nvantage of having been tried with success A\nsimple method of rendering cloth waterproof,\nwithout being airproof is to spread it on any-\nsmooth surface, and to rub the wrong side with\na lump of beeswax (perfectly pure and free\nfrom grease), until it presents a slight, but\neven, white or grayish appearance; a hot iron\nis then passed over it, and, the cloth being\nbrushed while warm, the process is complete.\nWhen this operation has been skilfully per-\nformed, a candle may be blown out through the\ncloth, if coarse, and yet a piece of the same\nplaced across an inverted hat may have several\nglassf uls of water poured into the hollowf ormed\nby it, without any of the liquid passing through.\nPressure or friction will alone make it do so.\n26. For Canvas. The following is highly re-\ncommended as a simple and cheap process for\ncoating canvas for wagon tops, tents, awnings,\netc. It renders it impermeable to moisture,\nwithout making it stiff and likely to break.\nSoft soap is dissolved in hot water, and a solu-\ntion of iron sulphate added. The sulphuric acid\ncombines with the potash of the soap, and the\niron oxide is precipitated with the fatty acid\nas insoluble iron soap. This is washed and\ndried, and mixed with linseed oil. The soap\nprevents the oil from getting hard and crack-\ning, and at the same time water has no effect\non it.\n27. Waterproofing Oil.— Take 20 oz. lard oil,\n10 oz. paraffin, 1 oz. beeswax; heat the oil over\na slow fire, and when hot add the paraffin and\nwax; allow the whole to remain over the fire\nuntil the latter articles are melted, and add a\nfew drops of sassafras oil or other essential oil\nto preserve it.\n28. Sailcloth Impervious to Water, yet Pliant\nand Durable.— Grind 6 lb. English ocher with\nboiled oil, and add 1 lb. black paint, which mix-\nture forms an indifferent black 1 oz. yellow\nsoap dissolved by heat in J^ pt. water, is mixed\nwhile hot with the paint. This composition is\nlaid upon dry canvas as stiff as can conve-\nniently be done with the brush. Two days\nafter, a second coat of ocher and black paint\n(without any soap) is laid on, and, allowing\nthis coat time to dry, the canvas is finished\nwith a coat of any desired color. After three days\nit does not stick together when folded up. This\nis the formula used in the British navy yards,\nand it has given excellent results. A portable\nboat may be made of canvas prepared in this\nway, and stretched on a skeleton frame.\n29. For Woolen Cloth.— Four oz. powdered\nalum, 4^g oz. sugar of lead, dissolved in 3 gal.\nwater, stirred twice a day for two days. When\nperfect subsidence has taken place, pour off\nthe clear liquid only, and add to it 2 drm. isin-\nglass, previously dissolved in warm water,\ntaking care to mix thoroughly. Steep the gar-\nments in this mixture for six hours, after\nwhich hang up to drain and dry. Wringing\nmust be avoided. This recipe is used by woolen\ncloth waterproofers.\n30. DujardhVs process for all kinds of textiles\nis as follows Place in a mortar 12 oz. alumina\nand potash sulphate reduced to powder and 12\noz. lead acetate bray till the mixture is quite\ndeliquescent. Add 7 oz. pulverized potash bi-\ncarbonate and 7 oz. soda sulphate; bray till\ncompletely combined. Pour in 4*4 oz. calcined\nmagnesia, and continue braying while ad-\nding 82£ pt. water. Pour the whole into a\nbucket containing 11 gal. river or rain\nwater, which must be fresh. Shake the\nwhole until there is complete solution, which\ntakes place in 20 minutes. Pour the liquid thus\nobtained into a convenient receptacle holding\nabout 22 gal., in which have been dissolved 534\nlb. oleinesoapinllgal. rain or river water. Boil\nfor about 20 minutes. To render a texture\nwaterproof, it is then sufficient to nut in this\nliquid either by hand or machinery, until it is-\nperfectly impregnated in all its parts. Care must\nbe taken during the whole operationto stir the\nmixture well, that no deposit may be formed.\nThe texture is then withdrawn, left to drip,\nand dried. It is afterward washed in plenty\nof water, dried, and dressed as usual. In this\ncondition the texture is waterproof, but pene-\ntrable by air, which is indispensable for health.\nThis process does not alter tints at all, but if\nthe materials have very delicate tints, it is\nnecessary to take account of the composition\nof these colors, and compose the bath accord-\ningly. The potash bicarbonate and soda sul-\nphate must then be sometimes replaced by the\nsame quantity of salts of iron, copper, zinc,\nlead, or some other metallic salt suitable for\npreserving colors. To prepare linen, leather,\nor wood, add 3)4 oz. margarine to the bath.\nWhen it is desired to prepare cotton or paper,\nit is well to add to the bath 1% oz. gelatine and\n33^ oz. light colored rosin. After that, dry in\nthe open air or at the fire, and the products\nwill be perfectly impermeable, and resist every\nkind of washing. Paper paste may be even\nsoaked in the vat, and thus an impermeable\npaper obtained, the above process replacing*\nthe sizing.\n31. The following mixture is given by a cor-\nrespondent in L lndustrie Textile as suitable-\nfor waterproofing all kinds of woven fabrics\nLinseed oil 77*0 parts.\nAcetate of lead 1*845 part.\nLitharge 10*0 parts.\nAmber earth 0 4 part.\nVegetable wax 1*3 part.\nSoap powder 1*2 part.\nManila gum 0*7 part.\nLampblack 4 0 parts.\nEssence of turpentine 2*0 parts.\nIndia rubber varnish. 1*555 part.\nTotal, 100 parts.\n32. Cloth coated with linseed oil to which a.\nlittle wax and litharge have been added will be\nwaterproof.\n33. Saturate the goods with a strong hot\naqueous solution of good resin soap, and then\nwring, transfer, and digest them in a second\nbath of alum or aluminum sulphate or acetate\ndissolved in hot water. Rinse and dry thor-\noughly at a temperature of about 80° F. Thus\ntreated the fibers do not readily absorb water,\nbut the goods are not absolutely waterproof.\n34. A new waterproofing compound for fab-\nrics is made as follows In 14 parts of water,\nheated to 180° F., dissolve 10J4 lb. gelatin and 21\nlb. castor oil soap. Then add 103/£ lb. gum lac,\nshaking the liquid until the last is completely\ndissolved. Remove from the fire, and add in\nsmall quantities 21 lb. powdered alum until\nthe alum dissolves. This forms an insoluble\nalumina soap, closely incorporated with the\ngelatin and the gum lac. Apply with a brush.\n35. Boiledoil 15 lb.\nBeeswax 1 lb.\nGround litharge 13 lb.\nMix and apply with a brush to the article,\npreviously stretched against a wall or table,\nwashing and drying each article well before\napplying the composition.\nUmbrellas.— First sponge the cloth on both\nsides with a solution of 1- part sulphate of\nalumina in 10 parts water, then with a solution\nof soap, which is prepared by boiling 1 part\nlight colored resin and 1 part of crystallized\ncarbonate of soda with 10 parts water, until the\nresin is dissolved. The resin soap thus formed\nis to be separated by the addition of common\nsalt. This soap is then dissolved, together with\n1 part soda soap, by boiling in 30 parts water.\nAfter this last sponging, rinse in the rain.\nWood.— Dry the wood and saturate with hot\nparaffine oil or paraffine melted.\nWaterproof Varnish. See Varnislies.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0608.jp2"},"605":{"fulltext":"Waters.\n593\nWaters.\nWaterproof Whitewash. See White-\nwashes.\nW r aters (Distilled, Mineral, etc.). In-\neluding- the French Eaux, Aerated Waters.—\n.salts for Producing- Factitious Mineral Waters.\n—Aerated or Carbonated Waters. These re-\nquire the aid of the powerful machine employed\nuy soda water manufacturers, to charge the\nwaters strongly with carbonic acid gas. The\ng-as is made from marble dust and diluted sul-\nphuric acid, and is forced by a pump into the\nwatery solution. Sometimes the gas is pro-\nduced by the mutual action of the ingredients\nintroduced into the bottle of water, which\nmust be instantly closed; but this method is\nfound practically inconvenient, and is only\n.adopted in the absence of proper apparatus.\nThe quanity of gas introduced is directed, in\nthe French and American pharmacopoeias, in\nmost cases, to be 5 times the volume of liquid.\nFor chalybeate and sulphureted waters the\nwater should be previously deprived of the air\nit naturally contains, by boiling, and allowing\nit to cool in a closed vessel.\nFor the different mineral waters see the\nnames, as Ems water. The following are mis-\ncellaneous waters\nSimple Aerated Water.— Carbonic acid gas\nwater. Water charged with 5 or more volumes\nof carbonic acid gas, as above.\nAlkaline Aerated Waters.— Aerated soda and\npotash waters should be made by dissolving a\ndrm. of the carbonated alkali in each pt. of\nwater, and charging it strongly with carbonic\nacid gas. The soda water of the shops gener-\nally contains but little (or no) soda.\nAerated Magnesia Water. This is made of\nvarious strengths.\nMialhe s Aerated Chalybeate Water.— Water,\nlpt.; citric acid, ldrm.; citrate of iron, 15 grn.;\ndissolve, and add 75 grns. of bicarbonate of\nsoda.\nTrosseau s Martial Aerated Water.— Potassio-\ntartrate of iron, 10 grn.; artificial seltzer water,\nlpt.\nBouchardat s Gaseous Purgative.— Phosphate\nof soda, 1 oz.; carbonated water, 1 pt.\nMialhe s Iodureted Gaseous Water.— Iodide\nof potassium, 15 grn.; bicarbonate of soda, 75\ngrn.; water, 1 pt.; dissolve and add sulphuric\nacid, diluted with its weight of water, 75 grn.\nCork immediately.\nDupasquier s Gaseous Water of Iodide of\nIron.— Solution of iodide of iron (containing\n£s of dry iodide), 30 grn.; syrup of gum, 2h\noz.; aerated water, 17J4 oz.\nMurray s and Dinneford s Fluid Magnesia\nmay be thus made To a boiling solution of 16\noz. of sulphate of magnesia in 6 pt. of water\nadd a solution of 19 oz. of crystallized carbon-\nate of soda in the same quantity of water; boil\nthe mixture till gas ceases to escape, stirring\nconstantly, then set it aside to settle; pour off\nthe liquid, and wash the precipitate on a cotton\nor linen cloth, with warm water, till the latter\npasses tasteless. Mix the precipitate, without\ndrying it, with a gal. of water, and force\ncarbonic acid gas into it under strong pressure,\ntill a complete solution is effected. The eau\nmagnesienne of the French codex is about a\nthird of this strength; and we have met with\nsome prepared in this country not much\nstronger.\nAix La Cliapelle Water.—\nBicarbonate of soda 12 grn.\nChloride of sodium 25 grn.\nChloride of calcium 3 grn.\nSulphate of soda 8 grn.\nSimple sulphureted water 2f£ oz.\nWater, slightly carbonated 17^j oz.\nEaud Angc, Angel Water, Portugal Water.—\nEau de rose 3^ pt.\nEau de fieurs d oranges Vn pt.\nEau de myrtle J4 pt.\nEssence of ambergris 2 n.drm.\nEssence of musk 1 fl.drm.\nAgitate them briskly together for some\nhours, and again, frequently, for a few days,\nobserving to keep the bottle (closely stopped)\nin a warm room the whole time. Lastly, after\nrepose, decant the clear portion, and, if nec-\nessary, filter the liquid through white bibulous\npaper. Nearly colorless. See also Portugal\nWater.\nEau d Ange, Distillee.—\nGum benzoin (crushed small) 4 oz.\nLiquid sty rax 2 oz.\nCloves (bruised) y oz.\nCalamus aromaticus (bruised) J4 oz.\nCinnamon (bruised) 14 oz.\nCoriander seed (bruised) 1 drm.\nWater 7 pt.\nDistill y 2 gal.\nEau des Alpes.—\nAlcohol 400 parts.\nOil of bergamot 9% parts.\nOil cedrat 9}4 parts.\nOil of orange blossoms 9]4 parts.\nPortugal oil part.\nOil of lemon part.\nOil of wormwood 2 parts.\nOil of cloves 1 part.\nEau Spiritueuse d Anis\nAngelica seed 6 oz.\nAnise 6 oz.\nBrandy 8 lb.\nBruise the seeds, and after some days infu-\nsion with the brandy, distill.\nApple Water.— Slice two large apples, put\nthem into a jar, and pour over them 1 pt. of\nboiling water. Cover close for an hour; pour\noff the fluid, and sweeten if necessary.\nAromatic or Perfumed Waters.— The finest of\nthese, such as are generally used by perfumers,\nare prepared by distillation, and are strictly\npure water impregnated with the odoriferous\nprinciples of the plant or substance from\nwhich they are distilled. Those in use for phar-\nmaceutical purposes are, generally, solutions\nof these principles, chiefly the essential oils, in\ndistilled water, usually prepared by tritura-\ntion with the water by means of some suitable\nintermedium, and then filtered.\nAquariums, Sea Water (Artificial) for.—l. The\nf ollowing mixture will form a tolerably good\nsubstitute. It so nearly assimilates to the ac-\ntual composition of salt water that it will sup-\nport life in the marine aquarium\nCommon salt (chloride of so-\ndium) 3^ oz.\nEpsom salts (sulphate of magne-\nsia) J4 oz.\nChloride of magnesium 200 gr.troy\nChloride of potassium 40 grn.\nSoft water 4 qt.\n2. Chloride of sodium .81 grm.\nSulphate of magnesium 7 grm.\nChloride of magnesium 10 grm.\nChloride of potassium. 2 grm.\nWater 3to 4 liters.\n—Pharm. Era.\nParts by Weight.\n3. Water 70,000\nChloride of sodium 1,045\nSulphate of lime 101\nSulphate of magnesium 165\nChloride of magnesium 263*5\nChloride of potassium 55\nCarbonate of lime 5*89\nBromide of magnesium 2*8\nCarbonate of lime 2 3\nCarbonate of magnesium 1*522\nSilica 1*039\nSulphate of magnesium 0*322\nOxide of iron and alumina 0*154\nChloride of sodium 1*407\nNitrate of magnesium 0*35\nNitrate of sodium 0**- 83\nChloride of potassium 0042","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0609.jp2"},"606":{"fulltext":"Waters.\n594\nWaters.\nThe repetition of some of the substances\nin the above recipe can be explained by say-\ning that the water at the marine aquarium,\nBirmingham, contained the substances named\nfrom 9 to 17 in the quantities given there. He\nactually introduced only those from 2 to 8. He\naims at securing a density of 1,027, at a temper-\nature of 60° F. The weight given may be taken\nas grains, ounces, pounds or tons, according to\nthe quantity required.\nBaden.—\nMagnesium chloride 2 gr.\nCalcium chloride 40 gr.\nIron perchloride 34 gr.\nSodium chloride 30 gr.\nSodium sulphate 10 gr.\nSodium carbonate 1 gr.\nWater 1 pt.\nCarbonic acid gas 5 vol.\nBalaruc Water.—\nChloride of sodium 1 oz.\nChloride of calcium 1 oz.\nChloride of magnesium oz.\nSulphate of soda 3 drm.\nBicarbonate of soda 2 drm.\nBromide of potassium 1 grn.\nWater 1 gal.\nChiefly used for baths.\nBalm Water.—\nFlowering tops of balm (fresh). V/% lb.\nLemon peel (fresh) 4 oz.\nCinnamon (bruised) 2 oz.\nCloves (bruised) 2 oz.\nNutmegs (bruised) 2 oz.\nCoriander seed (bruised) 1 oz.\nAngelica root (dry, bruised) 1 oz.\nRectified alcohol 5)4 pt.\nMacerate eight days, and distill to dryness by\nthe heat of a water bath. These are the pro-\nportions of the Paris Codex. This spirit is\nhighly esteemed in France as a cosmetic, stom-\nachic and stimulant.\nBareges Water. (Cauterets, Bagneres de Lu-\nchon, Eaux Bonnes, St. Sauveur may be made\nthe same.)— Crystallized hydrosulphate of soda,\ncrystallized carbonate of soda, and chloride of\nsodium, of each l^ grn.; water (freed from air),\n1 pt. A stronger solution for adding to baths\nis thus made: Crystallized hydrosulphate of\nsoda, crystallized carbonate of soda, and chlo-\nride of sodium, of each 2 oz.; water, 10 oz.; dis-\nsolve. To be added to a common bath at the\ntime of using.\nBarley Water.— Two tablespoonfuls of bar-\nley, 2 qt. of water, 1 tablespoonf ul of sugar.\nWash the barley well; put the barley and water\ninto a saucepan and bring it to a boil; then\nboil very slowly for two hours, strain it, add\nsugar, and let it cool. Barley water is very\ncooling and nourishing. The barley may after-\nward be used for a pudding, or put into soup.\nBussang, Forges, Provins, and other similar\nwaters, may be imitated by dissolving from ^4\nto of 1 grn. of sulphate of iron, 2 or 3 grn. of\ncarbonate of soda, I grn. of sulphate of mag-\nnesia, and 1 grn. of chloride of sodium, in 1 pt.\nof aerated water.\nCarbolic Toilet Water.\nCrystallized carbolic acid 10 parts.\nEssence millefleurs 1 part.\nTincture quillaya saponaria 50 parts.\nWater 1,000 parts.\nMix. The saponine replaces soap with ad-\nvantage. The above should be employed, di-\nluted with 10 times its bulk of water, for disin-\nfecting the skin, for washing the hands after\nany risk of contagion, etc.\nThe tincture of saponine in the above is\nmade by taking of bark of quillaya saponaria,\n1 part, and of alcohol, 90°, 4 parts. Heat to\nebullition, and filter.\nCarlsbad Water.—\nChloride calcium 8 gr.\nTincture chloride iron 1 drop.\nSulphate soda 50 gr.\nCarbonate soda 60 gr.\nChloride sodium 8 gr.\nCarbonated water 1 pt.\nChalybeate Water (Simpler-\nWater freed from air by boiling. 1 pt.\nSulphate iron y% gr.\nAerated Chalybeate Water.—\nSulphate iron 1 gr.\nCarbonate soda 4 gr.\nWater deprived of air and charged\nwith carbonic acid gas 1 pt.\nDr. Pereira recommends 10 grn. each of\nsulphate of iron and bicarbonate of soda to be\ntaken in a bottle of ordinary soda water. This-\nis equivalent to 4 grn. of carbonate of iron.\nBrighton Chalybeate.—\nSulphate iron 2 gr.\nChloride sodium 2 gr.\nChloride calcium 2 gr.\nCarbonate soda 3 gr.\nCarbonated water 1 pt.\nCherry Water.— 1. Distill 2% lb. crushed cher-\nry stones with 2 gal. water; add 2^4 to 2% gal.\ncherries and distill off 1^ to 2J4 gal. cherry\nwater.\n2. Bruise and rub through a hair sieve enough\nripe cherries to produce 1 pt. of juice; add to\nthis 1 lb. sugar and 1 qt. water.\nCinnamon Water.\nBruised cinnamon 1 lb.\nWater 2 gal.\nSimmer in a still for y 2 hour, put what comes\nover back into a still again. When cold strain\nthrough flannel.\nEau Spiritueuse de Citron de Bergamote.—\nFresh lemon peeis 1^ lb.\nBrandy. 9 lb.\nMacerate for 4 days, distill over a water bath.\nEau de Cologne.— The following formulae\nare all said to be the original\n1. Oil of bergamot 150 min..\nOil of lemon. 60 min.\nOil of Portugal 50 min..\nOil of neroli 20 min.\nOil of petit grain 10 min.\nOil of lavender (Eng.) 20 min.\nOil of rosemary 10 min.\nOil of melissa 5 min.\nFinest spirit.... 30 oz.\nRose water. 14 drm.\nOrange flower water. 14 drm.\n2. Oil of bergamot 100 min.\nOil of lemon 50 min.\nOil of Portugal 30 min.\nOil of petit grain 10 min.\nOil of lavender 20 min.\nOil of rosemary 15 min.\nFinest spirit 30 oz.\nRose water 9 drm.\nOrange flower water 9 drm.\nDistilled water 9 drm.\nThe above formulas are for preparing the per-\nfume by the cold method. The proper plan is to\nadd the oils to the spirit in the order in which\nthey are set down, shake well, and set aside for\na few days, shaking occasionally before adding\nthe waters. After these, are added, again set\naside for some time, and, if not perfectly clear*\nfilter.\n3. Oil of Portugal 180 min.\nOil of bergamot 180 min.\nOil of cedrat 120 min.\n.Oil of lemon „.120 min.\nOil of neroli .190 min.\nOil of petit grain 120 min.\nOil of rosemary 240 min.\nOil of lemon 240 min.\nFinest spirit 10 oz.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0610.jp2"},"607":{"fulltext":"Waters.\n595\nWaters.\nThis formula is for the preparation of a con-\ncentrated eau de Cologne, which will bear dilu-\ntion with ten times its volume of fine spirit.\nDissolve the oils in the 10 oz. of spirit, and set\naside for fourteen days, shaking- four times a\nday. Then distill the mixture twice, when the\nresult will be 10 oz. of an exceedingly strong\nperfume, which improves in odor the longer it\nis kept, and is specially suited for exporta-\ntion. It is of good odor when freshly diluted\nwith spirit, but in this case also Che odor im-\nproves on keeping.\n4. Oil of bergamot .375 min.\nOil of cedrat 60 min.\nOil of lemon 60 min.\nOil of lavender 30 min.\nOil of Portugal 60 min.\nOil of thyme 4 min.\nOil of neroli 75 min.\nOil of rosemary 75 min.\nFinest spirit (alcohol) 62 oz.\nMix and distill, then add to the distillate 2%\noz. of melissa water and 5 oz. orange flower\nwater, and distill again. The product is a very\nfine eau de Cologne, the formula dating as far\nback as 1821, but the following goes even far-\nther, viz., to 1813:\n5. Oil of neroli 10 min.\nOil of lemon 40 min.\nOil of bergamot 50 min.\nOil of cedrat 15 min.\nOil of lavender 18 min.\nOil of rosemary 10 min.\nMelissa water 4^ oz.\nFinest spirit (alcohol) 30 oz.\nDissolve the oils in a spirit contained in a re-\ntort, giving the mixture a thorough shaking,\nthen close the retort and keep the contents\njust warm for forty-eight hours, whereby per-\nfect blending of the oils with the spirit is in-\nsured. Then place it for twenty-four hours in\na cool place, after which filter it through paper\nuntil it is obtained perfectly clear. With the\nfiltrate mix the melissa water.— Chemist and\nDruggist.\n6. The following gives an article of superior\nquality, if the oils are pure and the alcohol\ngood\nPure alcohol 6 gal.\nOil of neroli 4 oz.\nOil of rosemary 2 oz.\nOil of orange 5 oz.\nOil of citron 5 oz.\nOil of bergamot 2 oz.\nMix with agitation; then allow it to stand for\na few days perfectly quiet before bottling.\nThe following affords a good article, but not\nequal to the preceding.—\nPure alcohol 6 gal.\nOil of neroli 2]4 oz.\nOil of rosemary 2 oz.\nOil of orange peel 4 oz.\nOil of lemon 4 oz.\nOil of bergamot 4 oz.\n7. A Good Cheap Cologne. The Druggists 1\nCircular gives this recipe.—\nOil of bergamot 1 fl. drm.\nOil of orange 1 ii. drm.\nOil of rosemary 1 fl. drm.\nOrange flower water 1 pt.\nAlcohol 1 pt.\nCardamom seeds 1 drm.\nMix, digest, and distill over 1 pt.\n8. Farina.\nAngelica root 10 grn.\nCamphor 15 grn.\nCassia lignea 20 grn.\nCloves 20 grn.\nMace 20 grn.\nNutmegs 20 grn.\nWormwood (tops) 20 grn.\nTroy.\nCalamus aroma ticus y z drm.\nSage 3^ drm.\nThyme i/ 2 drm.\nOrange flowers 1 drm.\nLavender flowers V/* drm.\nRose petals 3 drm,\nViolets 3 drm.\nBalm mint l oz.\nSpearmint l oz.\nLemons (sliced) 2\nOranges (sliced) 2\nRectified alcohol 5 gal.\nBruise or slice the solids, and digest them in\nthe spirit, with frequent agitation, for two or\nthree days, then distill off two-thirds. To the\ndistillate add of—\nOil of bergamot 1 fl. oz.\nOil of jasmine (essential) 1 fl. oz.\nOil of balm mint.. 1 fl. drm.\nOil of cedrat 1 fl. drm.\nOil of lavender 1 fl. drm.\nOil of lemon 1 fl. drm.\nNeroli (pure) 20 drops.\nEssence (oil) of anthosseed 20 drops.\nAgitate until solution is complete, and the\nnext day, if necessary, filter. Very compli-\ncated, and the formula is not recommended.\n9. Gassincourt.—\nNeroli 24 drops.\nOil of bergamot 24 drops.\nOil of cedrat 24 drops.\nOil of lemon 24 drops.\nOil of orange 24 drops.\nOil of rosemary 24 drops.\nLesser cardamom seeds (bruised) *4 oz.\nAlcohol at 32° Baume(say, 38o.p.) 1 qt.\nDigest a few days, and then distill 1H pt.\n10. Paris Codex.— Troy.\nOil of cinnamon %oz.\nOil of lavender 1 y% oz.\nOil of rosemary 1J^ oz.\nNeroli 13^ oz.\nOil of bergamot 3 oz.\nOil of cedrat 3 oz.\nOil ol lemon 3 oz.\nSpirit of rosemary 1 qt.\nCompound spirit of balm 3 pt.\nRectified alcohol 3 gal.\nDigest eight days, and then distill 3 gal. This\nis the officinal eau de cologne of the French Ph.\n11. Farina Cologne.—\nOil lemon 2}4 oz.\nOil bergamot 2J4 oz.\nOil lavender, fine Yz oz.\nOil neroli 2 drm.\nExtract orange flower 4 oz.\nExtract musk, best 4 oz.\nExtract civet Vz oz.\nAlcohol 2 gal.\nWater 3 pt.\nExtract benzoin 1 oz.\n12. Fragrant Cologne.—\nOil bergamot 3 oz.\nOil lemon 1 oz.\nOil lavender, fine H oz.\n(Ml cloves Vi oz.\nOil sandal wood Vs oz.\nAlcohol 2 gal.\nWater 3 pt.\n13. Golden Farina Cologne.— There are thou-\nsands of cologne formulas, but the following\nis said by the Druggists Circular to be superior\nto most of them\nTincture of Canada snakeroot. 4 oz.\nTincture of orris root 12 oz.\nOil of bergamot 6 drm.\nOil of lavender 6 drm.\nOil of lemon 6 drm.\nEssence of musk 1 drm.\nOil of neroli 1 drm.\nOil of cinnamon 1 drm.\nOil of cloves 1 drm.\nOrange flower water. .8 oz.\nCologne spirits, sufficient to\ncomplete 6 pt.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0611.jp2"},"608":{"fulltext":"Waters.\n596\nWaters.\nCosmetic Water, Viennese.— This very econom-\nical and fragrant cosmetic is prepared as fol-\nlows\nBruised almonds 15 parts.\nWater of orange flower 62 parts.\nWater of roses 62 parts.\nRub up the almonds with the waters, allow\nto stand, express, and add\nBorate of soda 1 part.\nSpirit of benzoin 2 parts.\nDissolve.\nCreole Water.— Orris root, 6% oz., cut in small\npieces, put in 1% pt. French brandy. Allow it\nto stand for 2 weeks, stir frequently, filter.\nThen add 3 pt. French brandy, 3 drm. oil of\norange blossoms, fl. oz. oil geranium. Distill\nand add a little cumarin essence.\nCurrant Water.— 1. To 1 pt. of red currant\njuice and 1 gill of raspberry juice add 1 lb. of\nfine white sugar and 1 qt. of water.\n2. One lb. of fine red currants, lb. of rasp-\nberries, l lb. of crushed loaf sugar, water.\nPick the fruit, add H pt. of water, and crush\nwith a wooden spoon, then put the pulp into a\npreserving pan with half the sugar. Stir till it\nis beginning to simmer, then filter through a\nhair sieve. Make the rest of the sugar into a\nsyrup with 3 gills of water, pour it to the fruit\nsyrup, add pt. of water. Let it cool, then\ndecant like wine for use. Make in July or\nAugust.\nEaux, in perfumery, are either solutions of\nthe fragrant essential oils, in spirit, with or\nwithout the addition of other fragrant sub-\nstances; or they are distilled waters largely\ncharged with the odorous principles of flowers.\nEau de Cologne, eau de lavande, eau de bouquet,\netc., are examples of the first and eau de rose,\neau de fleurs d oranges, etc., of the second. The\napplication of the term is usually restricted to\narticles of the kind imported from the South of\nFrance or Italy, and always so in reference to\nthose of the latter class. English perfumers\noften give the name to perfumed spirits of\ntheir own manufacture, which, though gener-\nally greatly inferior to those imported, they\npass off as foreign, or as made by foreign houses\nhere.\nThe eaux of the first class just referred to, re-\nsemble, for the most part, the other esprits or\nperfumed spirits. They differ from extraits\nand most of the essences in being colorless, or\nnearly so a quality which is secured either by\ndistillation, or by the use of only pure and\npale essential oils and essences in their prepa-\nration. They also generally, but not always,\nEossess less alcoholic strength, and are less\nighly charged with odorous matter than those\npreparations.\nEger Water.—\nCarbonate of soda 5 grn.\nSulphate of soda 4 scr.\nChloride of sodium 10 grn.\nSulphate of magnesia 3 grn.\nChloride of calcium 5 grn.\nCarbonated water 1 pt.\nOr it may be made without apparatus, thus\nBicarbonate of soda 30 grn.\nChloride of sodium 8 grn.\nSulphate of magnesia 3 grn.\nWater 1 pt.\nDissolve, and add a scruple of dry bisulphate\nof soda and close the bottle immediately.\nEau d Elegance.\nSpirit of j essamme 1 pt.\nRectified spirit ]4 Pt-\nSpirits of hyacinth pt.\nSpirits of storax pt.\nTincture of star anise 2 fl. oz.\nTincture of tolu 2 fl. oz.\nTincture of vanilla 1 fl. oz.\nEssence of ambergris ]4 drm.\nMix, and in a week decant the clear portion.\n22 ms.—\n1. Carbonate of soda 2 scr.\nSulphate of potash 1 grn.\nSulphate of magnesia 5 grn.\nSodium chloride 10 grn.\nCalcium chloride 3 grn.\nCarbonated water 1 pt.\n2. Sodium carbonate 2 scr.\nPotassium sulphate 1 grn.\nSulphate of magnesia 5 grn.\nSodium chloride 10 grn.\nCalcium chloride 3 grn.\nCarbonated water 20 oz.\nFlorida Water.\n1. Oil bergamot 2 oz.\nOil lavender, fine 1 oz.\nOil cloves J4 oz.\nExtract civet 1 oz.\nOil pimento *4 oz.\nAlcohol 2 gal.\nWater 4 pt.\n2. Oil of lavender 4 oz.\nOil of bergamot 4 oz.\nOil of cinnamon 2 drm.\nOil of cloves 1 drm.\nOil of neroli 2 drm.\nPure musk 4 grn.\nCologne spirits, 95$ 1 gal.\nMacerate fifteen days and filter through\npaper.\nAnosmin Foot Water (Koch). Aqueous solu-\ntion of tartaric acid. Used to cure bad odor of\nthe feet,\nGeranium Water.— Three fl. oz.—\nTincture of orris 6 fl. oz.\nTincture of ambrette 6 fl. oz.\nAlcohol 95° 4}^ pt.\nRose water pt.\nGoulard Water, Goulard s Lotion. This is\nordered to be prepared by adding 2 fl. drm. so-\nlution of diacetate of lead and 2 fl. drm. recti-\nfied spirit to 19J^ fl. oz. distilled water. It is\nkept ready prepared in the shops. It is white\nand poisonous. Used as a sedative, refrigerant\nand astringent lotion, in various affections;\nalso in many cosmetic washes.\nHarrogate Water. Chloride of sodium, 100\ngr.; chloride of calcium, 10 gr.; chloride of mag-\nnesium, 6gr.; bicarbonate of soda, 2 gr.; water,\n18J4 oz. Dissolve and add simple sulphureted\nwater, 1*4 oz.\nEau Spiritueuse d 1 Heliotrope.— Take vanilla,\n3 drm.; double orang-e flower water, 6 oz.; alco-\nhol, 33 B., 1 qt. Macerate for three days and\ndistill over a water bath. Color the liquid with\ntincture of cochineal.\nEau d Hongrie, Hungary Water, Compound\nSpirit of Rosemary.—\n1. Rosemary tops (in blossom) 2 lb.\nSage (fresh) Vi lb.\nRectified spirit 3 qt.\nWater 1 qt.\nDigest for ten days, throw the whole into a\nstill, add of common salt, \\\\i lb., and draw\nover 6 pt.\nTo the distillate add of—\nJamaica ginger (bruised) 1 oz.\nDigest a few days, and either decant or filter.\nThe old plan of adding the ginger before dis-\ntillation is wrong, as the aromatic principle of\nthe root does not pass over with the vapor of\nalcohol.\n2. Oil of rosemary (pure) -j drm.\nOil of lavender (English) m\nOrange flower water \\4, pt-\nRectified alcohol 1^ pt.\nMix. The first is the genuine formula. The\nsecond is that of the English perfumers.\nSpirit of rosemary is now commonly sold for\nit by the druggists.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0612.jp2"},"609":{"fulltext":"Waters.\n597\nWaters.\nEau de Rosieres.\nEsprit de jasmin 1 fi. oz.\nEsprit de fleurs d orangcs 1 fl. oz.\nSpirit of angelica root 2 fl. oz.\nSpirit of celery seed 2 fl. oz.\nSpirit of cucumber 2 fl. oz.\nEsprit de rose 4 fl. oz.\nTincture of benzoin 3 fl. drm\nMix. A very agreeable perfume; also used\nas a cosmetic.\nHunyadi Janos.—H.. Fresenius analyzed the\nHunyadi Janos water and found it to contain\nthe following salts\nSodium sulphate 19*662123\nMagnesium sulphate 18*449451\nCalcium sulphate 1*321953\nPotassium sulphate 0132943\nSodium chloride 1*424068\nMagnesium carbonate 0*731347\nIron carbonate 002059\nSilica 0*011218\nCarbonic acid (semi-combined).. 0*383868\nCarbonate acid, free 0*0U683\nLithium Traces.\nStrontium Traces.\nNitric acid Traces.\nBoracic acid Traces.\nBromine and iodine Traces.\nNitrogen Traces.\nPhosphoric acid Traces.\nThe carbonates are calculated as simple mono-\ncarbonates, and all the salts are anhydrous, i. e.,\nwithout water of crystallization. The cathar-\ntic properties are due to the salts of magnesia\nand sulphate of soda.\nIron Water.— Put lb. of new iron nails in\na large glass bottle with }4 pt. of water; let\nthem remain thus for 8 days, and pour in 1 qt.\nmore water. Replenish the bottle with water\nas it is used. Iron water is taken at meals with\na little claret added, and is recommended for\ndelicate children.\nJavelle Water.— 1. Javelle water proper is\nprepared by passing gaseous chlorine— derived\nfrom the action of hot sulphuric acid on a mix-\nture of common salt and oxide of manganese\ninto a 10$ aqueous solution of carbonate of\npotash until the latter will absorb no more. It\nmay also be made by adding a solution of car-\nbonate of potash to a solution of chlorinated\nlime (bleaching powder) as long as a precipitate\ncontinues to form, the liquid being afterward\ndecanted or filtered. Ordinarily, however, the\nliquid called javelle water is chlorinated soda,\nand not potassa.\n2. This liquid, also known as Labarraque s\ndisinfectant, is prepared by dissolving 12 oz.\n(avoir.) of soda crystals in 1 qt. (imperial), and\nsaturate with chlorine gas evolved from 1 oz.\nof black oxide of manganese, 4 oz. common\nsalt, and 2% A- oz. of sulphuric acid diluted\nwith 3 fl. oz. of water by aid of heat in a\nretort.\n3. A readier way of making the solution for\nordinary purposes consists in making a solu-\ntion of y% lb. good lime chloride in 3 pt. of\nwater with 7 oz. carbonate of soda (crystals) in\n1 pt. of water— drawing off the clear liquid\nafter the mixture has settled.\n4. Glauber salt (sulphate of soda) may be used\ninstead of part of the carbonate; with this the\nproportion may be 5 lb. bleaching powder, 10\nlb. sulphate of soda, 4 lb. sal soda and 4 pails of\nwater, well mixed. Sulphate of lime deposits\nfrom this liquid.\n5. Javelle water, used for turning white the\ndirtiest linen and removing stains, is composed\nof bicarbonate of soda, 4 lb.; chloride of lime, 1\nlb. Put the soda into a kettle over the fire,\nadd 1 gal. of boilling water, let it boil from ten\nto fifteen minutes, then stir in the chloride of\nlime, avoiding lumps. Use when cool. This is\ngood for removing fruit stains from white\nunderwear.\nJasmine Water.— Take 12 oz. of white jasmine\nflowers essence of bergamot, 8 drops spirits\nof wine, 1 gal.; water, 2 qt. Digest for two\ndays, in a close vessel then draw off by distil-\nlation 1 gal., and sweeten with loaf sugar.\nLavender Water, Eau de Lavande.—\n1. Flowering tops of lavender\n(fresh, and carefully picked). 10 lb.\nRectified spirit 1 gal.\nWater )4 gal.\nDigest a week, throw it into a clean still, add\n1^2 lb. of common salt dissolved in gal. of\nwater, and* after stirring the whole together,\ndraw over, rapidly, 1 gal., by the heat of steam,\nor of a salt water bath. To the distillate add—\nOil of bergamot 5 fi.drm.\nEssence of ambergris (finest), 2 fl.drm.\nand mix well. Very fine.\n2. Oil of lavender (finest Mitcham) 2 oz.\nEssence of musk (finest) 1 fl. oz.\nEssence of ambergris (finest) oz.\nOil of bergamot (recent; pure) J^ oz.\nRectified alcohol (56 over proof,\nscentless) y% gal.\nMix by agitation. Very fine without distil-\nlation but better for it, in which case, the es-\nsences should be added to the distillate. De-\nlightfully and powerfully fragrant.\n3. Smith s British Lavender.\nOil of lavender (Mitcham) oz.\nEssence of ambergris !4 oz\nEau de cologne (finest) J4 Pt\nRectified alcohol pt.\nMix by agitation. Very fragrant, and much\nesteemed.\nEau de lavande is a most agreeable and fash-\nionable perfnme for personal use; but like\nmost others of its class, it must not be used too\nfreely. Its excessive use distinguishes the vul-\ngar.\n4. Eau de Lavande de Millefleurs.—\nEau de lavande 1 qt.\nOil of cloves 1J^ fl.drm.\nOil of cassia fl.drm.\nEssence of ambergris y% fl.drm.\nMix.\n5. Oil of lavender (flowers) 3 drm.\nOil of bergamot 3 drm.\nOil of roses (otto) 6 drops.\nOil of cloves 6 drops.\nMusk 2 gr.\nOil of rosemary (best) 1 drm.\nHoney 1 oz.\nBenzoic acid 40 gr.\nRectified spirit 20 oz.\nWater 3 oz.\n6. Ammoniacal Lavender Water.— Oil of lav-\nender (English), V/q fl. oz.; spirit of ammonia\n(caustic), 2 l /i pts. Mix. Used as a stimulating\nscent for headaches, fainting, etc. This is the\nFrench preparation.\n7. Lavender Water.—\nOil of lavender 12 grm.\nOil of bergamot 12 grm.\nOil of rose (otto) 6 drops.\nOil of cloves 6 drops.\nOil of rosemary 3 grm.\nTincture of musk 3 grm.\nBenzoic acid 2 grm.\nHoney 15 srrm.\nAlcohol, Wo 500 grm.\nRose water 50 grm.\nThoroughly mix and filter.— Pharm. Era.\nLemon Water.— (French Eau de Citron.) Rinds\nof 8 lemons water, 4 1.; salt, 25 grm. Distill off\ny the Avater.\nLime Water Carbonated.— Carrara Water.\nLime water (prepared from lime made by calcin-\ning Carrara marble) is supersaturated by strong\npressure with carbonic acid, so that the car-\nbonate of lime at first thrown down is redis-\nsol ved. It contains 8 grm. of carbonate of lime\nin 10 fl. oz. of water.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0613.jp2"},"610":{"fulltext":"Waters.\n598\nWaters.\nl/isbon Water.—\nRectified spirit (not less than 60\nover proof) 1 gal.\nOtto of orange peel 4 oz.\nOtto of citron zeste 2 oz.\nOtto of rose J4 oz.\nLWiia Water, Aerated.— This may be conven-\niently made from the fresh precipitated car-\nbonate, dissolved in carbonated water, as di-\nrected for fluid magnesia. Its antacid and anti-\nlithic properties promise to be useful.\nEau de Luce.—\nTincture of benzoin, or balsam\nof Peru 1 oz.\nOtto of lavender 10 drops.\nOil of amber 5 drops.\nLiquor ammonia 2 oz.\nIf requisite, strain through cotton wool it\nmust not be filtered, as it should have the ap-\npearance of a milk white emulsion.\nMarienbad.—\nCarbonate of soda 2 scr.\nSulphate of soda 96 grn.\nSulphate of magnesia 8 grn.\nChloride of sodium 15 grn.\nChloride of calcium 10 grn.\nCarbonated water 1 pt.\nOr—\nBicarbonate of soda 50 grn.\nSulphate of soda 1 drm.\nChloride of sodium 15 grn.\nSulphate of magnesia 10 grn.\nDissolve in 1 pint of water, add 25 grn. of\ndry bisulphate of soda, and cork immedi-\nately.\nMarienbad Purging Salts.—\nBicarbonate of .soda 5 oz.\nDried sulphate of soda 12 oz.\nDry chloride of sodiu m V/% oz.\nSulphate of magnesia, dried 2 oz.\nDried bisulphate of soda 2)4, oz.\nMix the salts, previously dried, separately,\nand keep them carefully from the air.\nEau de Miel, Honey Water.—\n1. Esprit de rose, No. 3 1 pt.\nEsprit de jasmin, No. 2 pt.\nEau de fleurs d 1 oranges y% pt.\nRectified spirit J^ pt.\nEssence of vanilla 1 fl. oz.\nEssence of musk 6 fl.drm.\nEssence of ambergris 3 fl.drm.\nEssence of Portugal (oil) 2 fl.drm.\nOil of rosemary 1 fl.drm.\nOil thyme 1 fl.drm.\nFlowers of benzoin drm.\nMix, and agitate them well together for some\nminutes. Delightfully fragrant.\n2. Oil of bergamot 1 n.drm.\nOil of lemon fl.drm.\nOil of cloves 10 drops.\nOil of lavender 8 dl r pg 10\nOil of rosemary 8 drops. 10\nMusk (finest, powdered) ..4 grn.\nAmbergris (finest, powdered) 3 grn.\nEau de fleurs d oranges )4 pt.\nEau de rose pt.\nRectified alcohol 1 qt.\nDigest, with agitation, twelve or fourteeen\ndays, and then decant or filter. Very fra-\ngrant.\nMont d Or Water.\nBicarbonate of soda 70 gr.\nSulphate of iron r-\nChloride of sodium 12 gr.\nSulphate of soda Y% gr.\nChloride of calcium 4 gr.\nChloride of magnesium 2 gr.\nAerated water 1 pt.\nNaples Water.—\nCrystallized carbonate of soda 15 gr.\nFluid magnesia 1 oz.\nSimple sulphureted water .2 oz.\nAerated water 16 oz.\nIntroduce the sulphureted water into the\nbottle last.\nEau de Naples.— Neapolitan washing solu-\ntion-\nBorax 12 parts.\nDistilled water 100 parts.\nRose water 50 parts.\nCamphor 1 part.\nTincture of benzoin 4 parts.\nOrange Flower Water.—\nOil of neroli .8 drops.\nRectified alcohol 2 drm.\nMagnesia )4 drm.\nRub the whole together in a mortar, gradu-\nally adding a pint of distilled or rain water.\nFinally, filter the liquid through white blot-\nting paper, and it is ready for use.\nParadise Water.— Distill—\nNinety per cent, alcohol Tr 2% gal.\nCardamoms Yz oz.\nAnise seed 1% oz.\nRosewood 1 oz.\nCalamus 1% oz.\nOrris root 1 oz.\nAngelica root oz.\nFresh lemon peel lb.\nTo this add 1354 lb. sugar syrup and iy 2 gal.\nwater. Color green. Add a little silver leaf\nrubbed fine.\nEau de Paris.—\nEighty-five per cent alcohol. .2,000 parts.\nPortugal oil 15V£ parts.\nOil of lemon 15^ parts.\nOil of bergamot 15J4 parts.\nNeroli 3}4 parts.\nOil of rosemary 2 parts.\nPassif Water.—\nSulphate of iron 2 gr.\nChloride of sodium 3 gr.\nCarbonate of soda 4 gr.\nChloride of magnesium 2 gr.\nAerated water 1 pt.\nPeach Water\nEighty degree alcohol 3 pt.\nTincture of tolu 3 oz.\nOil of almonds (essential) V/% drm.\nExtract of jasmine 6 oz.\nExtract orange flower 6 oz.\nPleasant toilet water.\nPerfumed Waters, Directions for Distilling.—\nThe still should have a high and narrow neck,\nto prevent the liquor in. it from spurting over,\nand should be furnished with a steam jacket, or\na bath should be used to prevent injury from\nexcessive heat. Dry, hard, or fibrous sub-\nstances should be bruised, or otherwise me-\nchanically divided and macerated in water be-\nfore undergoing distillation. In almost all\ncases, salted or pickled flowers, herbs, etc., are\nsuperior to fresh ones. The product from them\nhas little or none of the herbaceous and raw\nodor which is always present when fresh ones\nare used; besides which the waters thus pre-\npared keep better, and reach maturity, or the\nfull developement of their odor in a much\nshorter time. Ebullition should be attained\nas quickly as possible, and. should be continu-\nous, and the heat, when possible, be regulated\nby a thermometer.\nWaters distilled from plants are apt to have a\nsmoky odor at first, even when the greatest\ncare and precaution have been observed in\ntheir distillation; exposure for a short time to\nthe air will remove this, after which they\nshould be kept in closely stoppered bottles,\nand preferably in bottles containing only suf-\nficient for probable use at one time; they\nshould be entirely filled and closed air-tight.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0614.jp2"},"611":{"fulltext":"Waters.\n599\nWaters.\nPineapple Water.— One large foreign pine-\napple, 1 pt. of boiling syrup, juice of 1 lemon.\nPeel the pine, slice and masb it well in a\nbasin, then pour on the syrup and lemon juice;\nstir well and cover. Let it stand two hours,\nthen filter through a fine silk sieve and add 1\nqt. of spring water. Time, two and a quarter\nhours. Make this in October.\nEau de Portugal.—\nAlcohol, (60 over proof) 1 gal.\nEssential oil of orange peel. 8 oz.\nEssential oil of citron zeste 2 oz.\nEssential oil of bergamot 1 oz.\nEssential oil of otto of rose oz.\nPullna Water.\nSulphate of soda 4 drm.\nSulphate of magnesia 4 drm.\nChloride of calcium 15 grn.\nChloride of magnesium (dry) 1 scr.\nChloride of sodium 1 scr.\nBicarbonate of soda 10 grn.\nWater, slightly carbonated 1 pt.\nOne of the most active of the purgative sa-\nline waters.\nPullna Water without the Machine.\nBicarbonate of soda 50 grn.\nSulphate of magnesia 4 drm.\nSulphate of soda 3 drm.\nChloride of sodium 1 scr.\nDissolve in 1 pint of water; add, lastly, 2 scr.\nof bisulphate of soda, and close the bottle im-\nmediately.\nSalts for Making Pullna Water.—\nDry carbonate of soda 1 oz.\nExsiccated sulphate of magnesia 1)4 oz.\nDry chloride of sodium, 2 drm.\nDry tartaric acid oz.\nOr rather dry bisulphate of soda 1 oz.\nPyrmont Water.—\nSulphate of magnesia 20 grn.\nChloride of magnesium 4 grn.\nChloi-ide of sodium 2 grn.\nBicarbonate of soda 16 grn.\nSulphate of iron 2 grn.\nCarrara water 1 pt.\nEau de Quinine.— A favorite hair wash that\nis much used in Berlin and Liepzig contains 2\ngrm. balsam of Peru, 6 grm. castor oil, 60 srm.\nrum, 35 grm. water, 5 grm. tincture of red chin-\nchona. Its constituents are at least harmless,\nwhich can be said of but few of our American\npreparations for the hair.\nRaspberry Water.— To 1 pt. of raspberry juice\nadd 1 gill of red currant juice, 1 lb. of sugar,\nand 1 qt. of water.\nBite Water.— Take of—\nRice 2 oz.\nLet it be well washed, and add to it-\nWater 2 qt.\nBoil it for an hour and a half, and then add\nsugar and nutmeg as much as may be required.\nTo be taken ad libitum.\nRice, when boiled for a considerable time,\nassumes a gelatinous form, and, mixed with\nmilk, is a very excellent diet for children. Tt\npossesses, in some measure, a constipating\nproperty which may be increased by boiling the\nmiik.\nEau Romaine.\nJasmine water 3 qt.\nVanilla water 1 qt.\nAcacia water 1 qt.\nTuberose water. 1 pt.\nEssence of amber 2 oz.\nTincture of benzoin 8 oz.\n2. Essence of ambergris 1 fl.drm.\nTincture of benzoin 4 fl.drm.\nSpirit of tuberose 1)4. fl. oz.\nTincture of vanilla 2 fl. oz.\nEsprit de fleurs d acacia. 2Mj fl. oz.\nEsprit de jasmin 7} tt. oz.\nEssence de petit grain 8 or 10 drops.\nMix.\nThe last essence is often omitted, and the\ntincture of benzoin reduced in quantity.\n3. Essence of ambergris 1 fl. oz.\nTincture of benzoin 4 fl. oz.\nSpirit of tuberose pt.\nSpirit of acacia flowers 1 pt.\nTincture of vanilla 1 pt.\nSpirit of jasmin 3 pt.\nSea Water.—\nChloride of sodium 4 oz.\nSulphate of soda 2 oz.\nChloride of calcium 14 oz.\nChloride of magnesium 1 oz.\nIodide of potassium 4 grn.\nBromide of potassium 2 grn.\nWater 1 gal.\nA common substitute for sea water as a bath\nis made by dissolving 4 or 5 oz. of common salt\nin 1 gai. of water.\nThe following mixture of dry salts may be\nkept for the immediate production of a good\nimitation of sea water\nChloride of sodium (that obtain-\ned from evaporating sea water,\nand not recrystallizeci, in pre-\nference) 85 oz.\nEffloresced sulphate of soda 15 oz.\nDry chloride of calcium 4 oz.\nDry chloride of magnesium. .16 oz.\nIodide of potassium 2 drm.\nBromide of potassium 1 grn.\nMix, and keep dry. Put 4 or 5 oz. to 1 gal. of\nwater.\nEau Sedative. Dorvault gives the following\nAmmonium hydroxide 60 parts.\nTincture of comphor 10 parts.\nSodium chloride 60 parts.\nWater 1000 parts.\nMix.\nSeidlitz Water.— This is usually imitated by\nstrongly asrating a solution of 3 drm. sulphate\nof magnesia in 1^ pt. of water. It is some-\ntimes made 6, 9 and 12 drm. of the salts to ty£\npt. of water, according to the strength desired.\nSeidlitz Powder.— The common seidlitz pow-\nders do not resemble the water. A closer imi-\ntation would be made by using effloresced sul-\nphate of magnesia instead of the potassio-tar-\ntrate of soda. A still more exact compound\nwill be the following\nEffloresced sulphate of mag-\nnesia 2 oz.\nBicarbonate of soda 3^ oz.\nDry bisulphate of soda Yz oz.\nMix, and keep in a close bottle.\nSeidscliutz Water.—\nSulphate of magnesia 3 dr.\nChloride of calcium 8 grn.\nNitrate of lime 8 grn.\nBicarbonate of soda 8 grn.\nSulphate of potash 5 grn.\nAerated water 1 pt.\nSeltzer Water.— This is a natural mineral\nwater; but if an imitation of it be required the\nfollowing is its analysis, according to Berg-\nman:\n1. Water 16 fl. oz.\nCarbonic anhydride 17 cub.in.\nCarbonate of sodium 4 grn.\nCarbonate of magnesium 5 grn.\nCarbonate of calcium 3 grn.\nChloride of sodium 17 grn.\nOf course a proper machine will be required\nfor forcing the gas into it, unless it be made on\na small scale in a gazogene.\n2. Fused chloride of calcium 4 grn.\nChloride of magnesium \\:l grn.\nChloride of sodium 15 grn.\nCitrate of iron ¥z grn.\nTartaric acid 2 arm.\nBicarbonate of soda 2J4drm.\nWater q. s.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0615.jp2"},"612":{"fulltext":"Waters.\n600\nWaxes,\nDissolve all the salts, excepting the tartaric\nacid and the bicarbonate, in about 1 pt. of\nwater, and introduce the solution into a cham-\npagne bottle. Then, having completed the\nrequisite quantity of liquid so as to leave an\nempty space of about 2 fi. oz., add the tartaric\nacid, and, immediately after, the bicarbonate\nof soda. Cork the bottle tightly, secure the\ncork with stout cord, and set the bottle aside\nfor about six hours before it is opened. It is\nthen ready for use.\nSoda Water.— The ordinary soda water sold\nin bottles consists simply of carbonic acid\nwater flavored in the usual way; thus for lemon\nthe recipe is\nSyrup 1 gal.\nCitric acid 2]/ 2 drm.\nOil of lemon 1 drm.\nTriturate the acid and oil together until\nthoroughly mixed, then add the syrup gradul\nally.\nWater, To Soften Hard.— Two parts bicar-\nbonate of soda, 4 parts calcined soda, 4\nparts of a solution of silicate of soda. The\nmixture should stand for twenty -four hours,\nwhen it generally becomes hard, so that it can\nbe rubbed to a powder; 2 to 3 lb. of the mixture\nwill generally soften 50 gal. of hot water.\nStrawberry Water.\nStrawberries 1 lb.\nLoaf sugar y lb.\nJ uice of 1 lemon.\nCrush the sugar finely, and sift over the\nstrawberries, which should be red and ripe.\nAdd y% pt. of cold spring water, filter through\na sieve, add 1 quart of spring water, and the\nstrained juice of 1 lemon. Time required, half\nan hour. Make this in June or July.\nSulpkureted Waters.— Pass sulphureted hy-\ndrogen into cold water (previously deprived of\nair by boiling, and cooled in a closed vessel)\ntill it ceases to be absorbed.\nTar Water.— Put in a glass or china jar Quar-\nter pound of Stockholm tar, 3 pt. of water. Let\nthe tar infuse for twenty-four hours, stirring it\noccasionally, and pour off this first water; then\npour 3 pt. of fresh water on to the tar, and let\nit infuse for twelve hours. The jar should be\nreplenished with water as it is used, renewing\nthe tar every month only. Tar water may be\ndrank alone or mixed with claret; it is con-\nsidered a good blood purifier.\nTar Water, Infusion of Tar, Tar Tea.—\nWood tar i qt.\nCold soft water 1 gal.\nMix, and stir them briskly with a stick for at\nleast fifteen minutes. After subsidence, pour\noff the water, strain it, and keep it in well\nstoppered bottles or jars. Used as a lotion in\nvarious chronic skin diseases, particularly of\nthe scalp in children; also in failing hair, bald-\nness, etc. It was once in high repute as a\nmedicine for internal use.\nVanilla Water.—\nVanilla (in coarse powder) 1 lb.\nSalt 5 lb.\nWater 2^ gal.\nMacerate for twenty-four hours, and then\ndistill over (rapidly) 1 gal.\nVichy Salts.—\nBicarbonate of soda 2J4 oz.\nMuriate of soda, .22^1 grn.\nEffloresced sulphate of soda. 1}4 drm.\nEffloresced sulphate of magnesia V/% scr.\nDry tartarized sulphate of iron. 1J4 grn.\nDry tartaric acid or dry bisul-\nphate of soda V/» oz.\nMix the powders, previously dried, and keep\nin a well corked bottle.\nVichy Water.— For 10 gal. (80 lb.) of water\nuse x\nSodium carbonate 4249 grn.\nSodium chloride 112 grn.\nPotassium chloride 141 grn.\nSodium bromide 10 grn.\nSodium silicate 15}^ grn.\nLithium carbonate 11 grn.\nCalcium chloride 736 grn.\nMagnesium chloride 308 grn.\nBarium chloride 634 grn.\nAluminum chloride 12 grn.\nIron chloride grn.\n2. Bicarbonate of soda 1 drm.\nChloride of sodium 2 grn.\nSulphate of soda 8 grn.\nSulphate of magnesia 3 grn.\nTincture of chloride of iron 2 drops.\nAerated water 1 pt.\n3. Dorvault s.—\nBicarbonate of soda 75 grn.\nChloride of sodium 4 grn.\nSulphate of iron grn.\nSulphate of soda 10 grn.\nSulphate of magnesia 3 grn.\nWater 1 pt.\nBy adding 45 grn. (or less) of citric acid, an\neffervescing water is obtained.\n4. M. Soubeiran, relying on the analysis of\nLongchamps, imitates vichy water by the fol-\nlowing combi nation\nBicarbonate of soda 135 grn.\nChloride of sodium 2^ grn.\nCrystal chloride of calcium ..12 grn.\nSulphate of soda 11^ grn.\nSulphate of magnesia 3% grn.\nTartrate of iron and potash y% grn.\nWater (1 liter) 2t% pt.\nCarbonic acid (5 liters) 305 cub.in\nDissolve the salts of soda and iron in part of\nthe water, and add the sulphate of magnesia\nand then the chloride of calcium in the re-\nmaining water. Charge now with the carbonic\nacid gas under pressure.\nVichy Salts.—\nBicarbonate of soda 1^ oz.\nChloride of sodium 15 grn.\nEffloresced sulphate of soda 1 drm.\nEffloresced sulphate of magnesia. 1 scr.\nDry tartarized potash and iron. 1 grn.\nDry tartaric acid or dry bisul-\nphate of soda 1 oz.\nMix the powders, previously dried, and keep\nthem in a close bottle.\nViolet Water.—\nViolet pomade 6 lb.\nRectified spirit 1 gal.\nMacerate and digest in closed vessel for a\nmonth and decant. Then add 3 oz. tincture\norris root and 3 oz. cassia spirit to each pint.\nWest End Cologne\nOil bergamot 2 oz.\nOil lavender, fine 2 oz.\nOil cloves y 2 oz.\nOil mace y 2 oz.\nExtract civet 1 oz.\nExtract benzoin 1 oz.\nExtract vanilla 1 oz.\nAlcohol 2 gal.\nWater 4 pt.\nWax Candles. See Candles.\nWaxed Paper. See Paper.\nWaxes. Term applied to many bodies\nwith some resemblance to the prototype of\nthe group— beeswax. The principal waxes are\nas follows\nBeeswax.— Obtained from the cells of bees,\nand is largely adulterated.\nCarnauba Wax.— Product of a palm tree of\nBrazil.\nChinese White Wax.— Joint product of an","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0616.jp2"},"613":{"fulltext":"Waxes.\n601\nWaxes.\ninsect and one or more trees, rarely seen in\nthis country.\nCordillera Wax.— Product of the wax tree or\nvarnish tree of the Cordilleras.\nFig Tree Wax. Vegetable wax obtained\nfrom Java.\nIndian White Wax.— This wax is produced\nfrom an insect it is largely used for making\ncandles in India.\nJapan Wax. Product of several trees of\nJapan.\nOzocerite, or Ozokerit.— This is an earth wax,\nand is of mineral origin, and bears a close re-\nlationship to petroleum and coal.\nPalm Wax.— Product of a palm growing in\nthe Cordilleras.\nBleaching of Wax.— When beeswax is exposed\nin thin layers to the air and to direct sun-\nlight it is quickly rendered colorless, but in the\ndark, in presence of a free supply of air, oxy-\ngen, or ozone, no decolorization whatever is\neffected, even after a long time. In presence\nof sunlight, oxygen, and especially ozone, de-\nstroys the color very rapidly, but the presence\nof oxygen is not absolutely necessary. When\nthe wax is exposed to sunlight in v.acuu, or in\nan atmosphere of carbonic anhydride, it is\nbleached, but much more slowly than in the\npresence of air.\nThe composition of the unbleached wax dif-\nfers considerably from that of wax which has\nbeen bleached by exposure to air and sunlight.\nThe latter contains a slightly larger percentage\nof free acids, but a large proportion of the un-\nsaturated acids of the oleic series and of the un-\nsaturated hydrocarbons in the crude wax have\ndisappeared. This fact shows that in the bleach-\ning process not only does the coloring matter\nsuffer total combustion, but the unsaturated\nacids and the unsaturated hydrocarbons are\nconverted into saturated compounds by the\nfixation of oxygen. This is also the case with\nother fatty substances, such as suet, and the\nreason why the addition of 1 to 5 per cent, of\nsuet to beeswax causes decolorization to pro-\nceed more quickly is because the suet, in its\noxidation or combustion, aids the destruction\nof the coloring matters. The additon of a small\nquantity of other oxidizable substances, such\nas essence of terebenthene, also hastens the\naction, so that it would seem that the destruc-\ntion of the coloring matter is due to the foi m-\nation of ozone by the oxidation of the added\nsubstance.—^., and P. Buisine.\nBeeswax. To separate honey from wax, put\nhoneycomb and all in a tin pan upon a moder-\nately warm stove, adding a tablespoonf ul of\nwater to each lb. of honey. Stir occasionally\nwith a piece of wire until the contents of the\npan are in a liquid condition. Do not allow\nboiling to begin. Remove the pan from the\nfire and set it aside to cool. The cake of wax,\nto which all impurities will adhere, may then\nbe carefully lifted off with a knife.\nBlack Wax.— Melt 225 parts of best yellow\nwax and add 25 parts prepared silver litharge,\nand boil until the compound assumes a brown\ncolor, then add 8 parts of calcined lampblack,\nand pour into paper moulds.\nEngravers Border Wax.—\n1. Beeswax 1 part.\nPitch 2 parts.\nTallow 1 part.\nBordering.\n2. Resin 3 oz.\nBeeswax 2 oz.\nSweet oil q. s.\nIncorporate thoroughly by heat, turn in to\ncold water, and work thoroughly with the\nhands; if brittle melt again, and add more oil.\nBottleWax.—l. Resin, pitch, ivory black, equal\nparts.\n2. Resin 614 parts.\nBeeswax part.\nVenetian red or red lead l A parts.\n3. Shellac 3 parts.\nVenice turpentine 1*4 parts.\nVermilion 2% parts.\nOr Venetian or red led, q. s.\n4. Resin, 6 parts shellac and Venice turpen-\ntine, each 2 parts; coloring matter to suit.\n5. The following recipe is recommended by\nScheirer\nBurgundy pitch 50 parts.\nTurpentine 25 parts.\nColophony 100 parts.\nHeat the pitch until all the water is driven\noff, then add the turpentine and colophony,\nand when the whole is liquid, add a mixture of\nthe following in fine powder\nChalk .50 parts.\nCarbonate of magnesia 5 parts.\nArmenian bole 50 parts.\nMix thoroughly.\n6. The ingredients are shellac, 2 lb.; rosin, 4\nlb.; Venice turpentine, 2^ lb.; red lead, 1^ lb.\nMelt the shellac and rosin cautiously in a bright\ncopper pan, over a clear charcoal fire. When\nmelted add the turpentine, and lastly, mix in\nthe red lead. Pour into moulds, or form sticks\non a warm marble plate. The gloss may be pro-\nduced by polishing the sticks with a rag until\nthey are cold.\n7. Black Bottle Wax.— Common resin, 20 lb.;\ntallow, 5 lb.; lampblack, 4 lb. Mix with heat.\n8. Red Bottle Wax.— Common resin, 15 lb.;\ntallow, 4 lb.; red lead, 5 lb.; mix and heat.\n9. Resin, 6 oz.; shellac, 2 oz.; Venice turpen-\ntine, 2 oz,; melt and add lampblack, 9 oz. Pour\ninto moulds.\n10. Common resin, pitch and ivory black,,\nequal parts.\n11. Four oz. shellac, 1 oz. Venetian turpen-\ntine, and 3 oz. vermilion. Melt the lac in a.\ncopper pan, suspended over a clear charcoal\nfire, then pour the turpentine slowly into it,\nand soon afterward add the vermilion, stirring-\nbriskly all the time of the mixture with a rod\nin either hand.\nWax, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nEngraving Wax.— The following is said to be\na good receipt for map engraving wax: Four\noz. of linseed oil 3^ oz. of gum benzoin, and y%\noz. of white wax boil\nFactitious Wax.— A spurious compound for\nveterinary purposes.\n1. Yellow resin, 161b.; hard mutton suet or\nstearin, 8 lb.; palm oil, 2J^ lb.; melted together.\n2. As last, but substituting turmeric, 1 lb. for\nthe palm oil.\n3. Best annatto, 6 oz. or q. s.; water, 1 gal.;\nboil; add of hard mutton suet or stearin, 35\nlb.; yellow resin, 70 lb.; again boil, with con-\nstant agitation, until perfectly mixed, and of\na proper color, and as soon as it begins to\nthicken pour it out into basins to cool. When\ncold rub each cake over with a little potato\nstarch.\nWax for Fish Lines, etc.— Use a mixture of\nbeeswax and shoemakers wax. In winter the\nquantity of the latter is in excess, while in\nsummer more of the beeswax is used. These\ntwo ingredients are mixed together in a suit-\nable vessel over a water bath.\nFloors, Waxing Hard Wood.—l. Take 1 lb. of\nthe best beeswax, cut it up into very small\npieces, and let it thoroughly dissolve in 3 pt. of\nturpentine, stirring occasionally if necessary.\nThe mixture should be only a trifle thicker than\nthe clear turpentine. Apply it with a rag to\nthe surface of the floor, which should be\nsmooth and perfectly clean. This is the diffi-\ncult part of the work, for if you put on either\ntoo much or too little, a good polish will be im-\npossible. The right amount varies, less being\nrequired for hard, close grained wood, and\nmore if the wood is soft and open grained.\nEven professional waxers are sometimes\nobliged to experiment, and novices should\nalways try a square foot or two first.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0617.jp2"},"614":{"fulltext":"Waxes.\nWaxes.\nPut on what you think will be enough, and\nleave the place untouched and unstepped on\nfor twenty-lour hours, or longer if needful.\nWhen it is thoroughly dry, rub it with a hard\nbrush until it shines. If it polishes well, re-\npeat the process over the entire floor. If it\ndoes not, remove the wax with fine sandpaper\nand try again, using more or less than before, as\nmay be necessary, and continue your experi-\nmenting until you secure the desired result. If\nthe mixture is slow in drying, add a little of the\ncommon driers sold by paint dealers, japan, for\nmstance, in the proportion of 1 part of the\ndrier to 6 parts of turpentine. When the floor\nis a large one, you may vary the tedious work\nof polishing by strapping a brush to each foot\nand skating over it.\n2. Linseed oil, 100 parts; litharge, 10 parts;\nthe best yellow wax, 75 parts; tallow, 7 parts;\nmolasses, 90 parts; lampblack, 50 parts; oil of\nturpentine, 140 parts alcohol, 17 parts shel-\nlac, 2^4 parts; aniline violet, 1 part. Boil the\nlitharge for an hour with linseed oil, then add\nthe melted wax and tallow and the molasses.\nHeat the whole to a temperature of 230° F. over\na water bath until all the water has evaporated;\nthen add the coloring matter.\nFlowers, How to Make Wax.— This affords a\npleasant way of passing time and is useful.\nUse only the purest virgin wax, entirely freed\nfrom all extraneous matters. Wax that is\neither granular or friable must be rejected. It\nis generally melted in vessels of tinned iron,\ncopper, or earthenware. To render it ductile,\nfine Venice turpentine, white, pure, and of an\nagreeable odor, is added. The mixture is con-\nstantly stirred with a glass or wooden spatula.\nAll contact with iron must be avoided, and if\nthe vessels are of that material, they must be\nwell and carefully tinned. When stiff leaves\nare to be executed, two parts of spermaceti are\nadded to eight parts of wax, to give transpar-\nency. Much care and tact are needed in color-\ning the wax. The colors being in fine powder,\nare made into a paste by adding, little by little,\nessence of citron or lavender. When the trit-\nuration is perfect, this paste is mixed with melt-\ned wax, stirring rapidly all the while; and while\nthe mass is still liquid, it is poured into moulds\nof pasteboard or tinned iron of the shape of\ntablets, and is then ready for use. Sometimes\nIt is passed through fine muslin as it flows into\nthe moulds.\nAnother method is to tie up the color in a\nmuslin bag, and wave it about among the\nmolten wax until the desired tint is obtained.\nTo combine colors, it is only necessary to have\n2 or 3 bags containing different colors, and to\nemploy as much of each as shall have the de-\nsired^effect. These bags, far from being spoiled\nby dipping in wax already containing other\nshades, have only to be rinsed in pure water to\nfit them for coloring other wax. The colors\nmost in use in wax flower making are pure\nforms of white lead, vermilion, lake, and car-«\nmine, ultramarine, cobalt, indigo, and Prussian\nblue, chrome, Naples j ellow, and yellow ocher.\nGreens and violets are chiefly made from mix-\ntures of the above.\nThe wax being prepared, the manufacture of\nthe artificial flowers is carried on in two ways.\nThe first consists in steeping liquid wax in little\nwooden moulds rinsed with water, around which\nthe wax forms in a thin layer, so as to take the\nform of the mould, and thus to present, when\ndetached from it, the appearance of the whole\nor part of a flower. In this way lilac and other\nsimple blossoms are obtained with much rapid-\nity.\nThe branches are also executed with wax\nsoftened by heat, and moulded with the fingers\nround a thread of wire.\nAs for leaves and petals, they are cut out of\nsheets of colored wax of the proper thickness.\nThese sheets are glossy on one side, and velvety\non the other.\nTo express the veining of leaves, they are\nplaced in moistened moulds, and pressed with\nthe thumb sufficiently to get the impression,\nwhich is accurately copied from nature.\nThe petals are made to adhere simply by press-\nure; the leaves are placed on a little foot stalk,\nand the latter fastened to the stem.\nThe manner of procuring moulds for the ac-\ncurate imitation of leaves is as follows: A nat-\nural leaf of the plant it is wished to imitate is\nspread out on a flat surface of marble, for ex-\nample. It is lightly but equally greased with\nolive oil, and surrounded with a wall of wax,\nwhich must not touch it. Then in a small vessel\ncontaining a few spoonfuls of water a few pin-\nches of plaster of Paris are to be thrown, and\nbriskly stirred till the liquid has the consistence\nof thick cream. This is poured over 1 he leaf, and\nleft till it is well hardened. It is then lifted up\nand the leaf detached, when it will be seen that\nthe plaster has taken a perfect impression of\nevery vein and indentation. Such moulds are\nrendered far more durable if they are impreg-\nnated while warm with drying oil. This gives\nthem greater solidity, and prevents their\ncrumbling from frequent immersion in water.\nIt is necessary to impress strongly on all\namateur wax flower makers the necessity for\nhaving all tools and moulds completely moist-\nened with water, otherwise the wax will be\nconstantly adhering, and preventing neatness\nof workmanship.\nGilding, Wax for.—\nOil ..25 parts.\nYellow wax 25 parts.\nAcetate of copper 13 parts.\nRed ocher 37 parts.\nThe whole is melted, and stirred until cold.\nGilders Wax, for Fire Gilding.—\n1. White wax 24 parts.\nCopper scale 6 parts.\nVerdigris 3 parts.\nBorax y^ part.\n2. Armenian bole 12 parts.\nWhite wax 48 parts.\nVerdigris 6 parts.\nBurntocher 2 parts.\nFerric sulphate 8 parts.\nBorax 1 part.\n3. White wax 48 parts.\nCopper sulphate 12 parts.\nVerdigris 12 parts.\nBorax V/%, parts.\n4. Bed chalk 16 parts.\nYellow wax 36 parts.\nCopper sulphate water 6 parts.\nVerdigris 5 parts.\nBorax 3 parts.\nBurnt copper 6 parts.\nGrafting Wax.\n1. Pitch 4 oz.\nResin. 4 oz.\nLard 2 oz.\nBeeswax 2 oz.\nMelt over a slow fire, or\n2. Melt together equal quantities resin and\nbeeswax, and add enough tallow to produce the\nproper consistency.\nGrafting Wax.—\n3. Pine resin 50 parts.\nTallow 10 parts.\nTurpentine 5 parts.\nAlcohol, 90% 5 parts.\nThe resin is melted in ah iron vessel. The\nturpentine is added, next the tallow, and finally\nthe 90^ Alcohol. Stir the ingredients thor-\noughly and cool.\n4. A good grafting wax can be made by melt-\ning together 50 lb. resin, 10 lb. beeswax, and 1\ngal. raw linseed oil. As soon as the resin and\nwax are melted, dipl pt. at a time into a bucket\nof cold water, keeping it away from the bucket\nwith a stick. As soon as it is cool enough,\nstretch with slightly greased hands. If the wax","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0618.jp2"},"615":{"fulltext":"Waxes.\n603\nWaxes.\nis to be used in very warm weather, a little less\noil and beeswax will be better.\n5. Liquid Grafting- Wax.— This, if properly\nmade, may be readily applied to outdoor graft-\ning, without the trouble of heating, and it is\nalso a good application to wounds made in\npruning. The following directions are given\nby W. W. Tracy: Melt 1 lb. resin with 1 lb. tal-\nlow, and, when mixed, remove from the stove\nand allow it to cool till a scum begins to form.\nThen add a teaspoonf ul of turpentine. .Replace\non the stove, and add 7 oz. of a mixture of 2\nparts alcohol and 1 part water, stirring briskly,\nand taking care that the alcohol does not burn,\nas it will if too hot. Stir till of the cousistence of\nhoney, keep corked, and apply with a brush. If\nit gets too hard, remelt, and apply a few drops\nof turpentine and alcohol and water. It hard-\nens after applying.\nGreen Wax.— Melt 100 parts yellow wax, 100\nparts white rosin, 33 parts ordinary turpentine,\nand then mix with 8 parts pulverized verdigris.\n1 our into paper moulds.\nImpression Wax.— Temper parafin wax with\nolive oil to suit conditions. Mix a little whit-\ning with it while hot.\nModeling Wax, to Make.—l. Melt 20 oz. best\nwhite wax, and while it is cooling mix with 1\noz. flake white.\n2. Best yellow wax 50 parts.\nVenice turpentine 7 parts.\nLard 3J4 parts.\nBole elutriated 36 parts.\nMix, and knead thoroughly.\n3. It is made of white wax, melted and mixed\nwith lard to make it workable. In working it,\nthe tools used, the board or stone, are moist-\ntened with water, to prevent its adhering; it\nmay be colored to any desirable tint with a dry\ncolor.\n4. Melt over a moderate fire 100 parts yellow\nwax, and add 13 parts Venetian turpentine,\n6^ parts lard, 72^ parts elutriated bole. Mix\nthoroughly, pour the mixture gradually into a\nvessel containing water, and knead it several\ntimes. with the hands. The wax must be melted\nat a temperature sufficiently low not to create\nbubbles. Add Indian red if desired for color.\nMoulds, Wax, Preparation for Taking Moulds.\nWhether the beeswax have stearine in it or\nnot, it is best to prepare it in the following-\nmanner Put some common virgin wax into\nan earthenware pot or pipkin, and place it\n■over a slow fire; and when it is all melted, stir\ninto it a little white lead (flake white), or black\nlead (plumbago), say about 1 oz. white lead to 1\nlb. wax; this mixture tends to prevent the\nmould from cracking in the cooling, and from\nfloating in the solution; the mixture should be\nremelted two or three times before using it for\nthe first time. Resin has been recommended\nas a mixture with wax; mixtures of which, in\nvarious proportions, have been used with suc-\ncess; but when often used, decomposition or\nsome change takes place, which makes the mix-\nture granular and flexible, rendering it less\nuseful for taking moulds. When resin is used,\nthe mixture, when first melted, should be\nboiled, or nearly so, and kept at that heat\nuntil effervescence ceases; it is then to be\npoured out upon a flat plate to cool, after\nwhich it may be used as described.\nMoulding Wax, Dentists.— Dr. P. David com-\nmunicates to the Journal de Pharmacie et de\nChimie an analysis of the composition known as\nGodiva or Stent. Upon this he bases the fol-\nlowing formula\nStearine 25 parts.\nHalf soft copal 25 parts.\nTalc 50 parts.\nCarmine 05 parts.\nOil of rose geranium 2 drops to 1 oz.\nMelt the resin by the heat of a sand bath,\nand when slightly cooled add the stearine, stir-\nring constantly. When this has melted add the\nother ingredients, previously intimately mixed,\nand stir so that a homogeneous product may\nbe obtained.\nThe adhesiveness of the composition may be\nincreased or diminished by modification of the\namount of copal. A more thorough blending\nof the color may be insured by dissolving the\ncarmine in a little potash solution before mix-\ning with the chalk.\nPalm Wax.— Obtained from trunk of Ceroxy-\nlon andicola. The crude wax does not ineP\nbelow the temperature of boiling water.\nParafflne Wax.— Stearic Acid, to Color Black-\n—Melt the materials, and digest them for sev-\neral minutes, with powdered anacardium nuts\n(Anacardium orientale). This nut contains a\nblack fluid vegetable fat.\nPolishing Wax.— Melt 2 parts best yellow wax\nand y% part rosin, then add 1 part oil of turpen-\ntine.\nBed Wax.— Ten parts best white wax, 6 parts\nof Venice turpentine; then add ]4 part finely\npulverized cinnabar to color. Pour into paper\nmoulds.\nSealing Wax.—l. The chief ingredient of seal-\ning wax is shellac, which is melted and mixed\nwith an equal or lesser weight of Venetian tur-\npentine for the cheaper qualities, it is adulte-\nrated with ordinary resin; too much of the\nlatter, however, makes it brittle. The color is\ngiven by powdered paints for black, 1 lb. ivory\nblack with 1 lb. resin and 2 lb. shellac for red,\n1 lb. vermilion, 1 lb. powdered chalk, 1 lb. resin,\nand 1 lb. shellac for yellow, 1 lb. chrome yel-\nlow, 1 lb. Venetian turpentine, 1 lb. shellac; for\nwhite, 1 lb. white lead, 1 lb. pale resin, 1 lb. Ve-\nnetian turpentine, 1 lb. shellac for green, 1 lb.\nPrussian blue, 1 lb. orpiment, 1 lb. Venetian\nturpentine, 1 lb. shellac for gold, 1 lb. silver\nfoil, 2 lb. white resin, 2 lb. Venetian turpen-\ntine, 6 lb. shellac; the transparent yellow\nbrown of the shellac gives the silver foil a gold\ncolor.\n2. It is impossible to succeed in making this\narticle when a good shellac is not used as a\nbasis. In order to ascertain if it is fit for the\npurpose, try to melt a small quantity over\na low coal fire if it melts easily, thoroughly,\nand flows well, it is good if not, reject it. In\nmaking sealing wax, mix first the paints, and\nlet them be exceedingly wefl pulverized let us,\nfor instance, suppose that you wish to make the\nred sealing wax now in the trade under the\nname of express company sealing wax take 2\nlb. good vermilion and 7 lb. Paris white (which\nis very fine chalk), mix them thoroughly, then\nplace 8 lb. shellac in a proper stoneware vessel,\nand heat it carefully over a moderate fire, stir-\nring it with an iron spatula until it has become\nliquid then warm 6 lb. of Venetian turpentine,\nand add the same to the shellac when well\nmixed, add gradually the mixture of chalk and\nvermilion, and stir continually till you have a\nhomogeneous whole; it is better to use for this\nlatter purpose a pestle. The fire must be only\nwarm enough to keep the mass fluid. When\nwell mixed, it is taken from the fire, when a\nwarm, smooth stone must be ready to make the\nsticks; in order to do this you take with a\nspoon as much as is required for a stick, and\nroll it between the hands till it has about the\nshape, then place it on the warm stone and roll\nit with a board or metal plate; to give it a smooth\nsurface it is, after solidification, superficially\nheated over a fire or proper lamp this is the\nold way to make the sticks, without using\nforms if you will go to the expense of procur-\ning proper forms, you may press the sticks in\nthem when in semi-solid condition, and give\nthem any shape, square, flat, etc. Some expe-\nrience, of course, is necessary to work witli\nsuccess at the right stage of heat.\nMixing.— It is essential that all the ingredients\nbe dry, and to insure this they are kept in\npaper bags on a shelf running round the walls\nof the stove room at about 18 in. below the\nceiling. The order of adding the ingredients is\nas follows: The resins and turpentine are first","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0619.jp2"},"616":{"fulltext":"Waxes.\n604\nWaxes.\nmelted together; then the neutral bodies\n(chalk, etc.), if any, are stirred in next the\npigments are added and the volatile balsams\nand oils are only introduced at the last moment\nbefore forming. When only one pigment is\nused, it is simply warmed and stirred into the\nmass. When a shade is to be produced by a\nmixture of colors, no neutral bodies are added\nto the resins, but they are mixed with the\ncolors in a china dish,warmed, and then added\nto the melted mass. Any required tint is ob-\ntained by mixing, and frequent testing.\nMelting.— The melting of the mass should be\nconducted at the lowest possible temperature,\nsufficing only to keep it in a fluid state. Quan-\ntities of 20 lb. to 25 lb. are treated at a time in a\nvessel large enough to permit quick stirring.\nOften the furnace used resembles an ordinary\ncook stove, the fire heating cast iron plates\nbut these are objectionable from the inequality\nof the heating, and the risk of fire. Enameled\ncast iron pots are best for melting in, keeping\na separate pot for each mixture. Before using\na pot for a new color, it must be allowed to\nget quite cold, when the adhering wax can be\neasily cleaned off. The shellac is first put into\nthe pot and melted, while being continually\nstirred with a flat paddle of hard wood the\nturpentine is then intimately incorporated\nnext follow the neutral bodies and colors in a\nthin stream, with constant stirring, which is\nmore necessary if the pigments are heavy.\nWhen the mass seems uniform, drops of it are\nexamined by letting them fall on a cold, smooth,\nmetallic plate, when the color, hardness, and\nfracture can be tested. When satisfactory, the\nheat is adjusted to maintain a fluid condition,\naromatic substances are quickly stirred in, and\nforming is commenced.\nForming.— Sealing wax is moulded into sticks\nin special forms consisting of one piece for rec-\ntangular or triangular sticks, but must be\nof two for oval or round. Forms in one\npiece are made of rectangular brass plate,\ncarrying grooves ^5 in. wider at top than at\nbottom, for facilitating removal of the sticks.\nIt is a common practice to put forms on a\nstove, or cool them off while moulding by\nplacing them on metallic trays with cold water\nbeneath, to cool the sticks rapidly; this releases\nthe forms more quickly, but makes the sticks\nbrittle, and it is better to let them cool gradu-\nally on a wooden table, while if the form be-\ncomes so warm as to much protract the set-\nting of the wax, it may be dipped in cold water\nand carefully dried before using again. En-\ngraved forms are difficult to turn out, but this\nmay be partly remedied by slightly rubbing\nthe engraved parts with oil of turpentine. Sur-\nface ornamentation, such as gilding or silver-\ning, is effected by placing the substance in the\nform. As brass forms are expensive, they are\nsometimes replaced by home-made ones of type\nmetal. To produce them, a stick of fine wax is\ncoated with a thin film of olive oil, and a cast\nof it is ta ken in plaster of Paris; when this is\nthoroughly dry, it is put into a small wooden\nbox, and melted type metal is poured round to\nmake a form. The forming of the wax is con-\nducted as follows The molten wax is ladled\nfrom the pot into a casting spoon, previously\nheated. By this it is poured in a uniform\nstream into the forms. These should be slightly\nwarmed before the first moulding takes place.\nPolishing.— Polishing, dressing, or enameling\nis usually applied to all grades, though the\nfiner qualities have a lustrous surface on\ncoming out of the form. When the improved\nfurnace before mentioned is not in use, a\nspecial polishing stove is necessary. This con-\nsists of an iron slab covering a vault, heated by\na fire beneath. The sticks are taken in the\nhand and held in the heat of the polishing stove\ntill the surfaces begin to melt and the sticks\nbend. Eor gilding, silvering, or bronzing, the\npart to be ornamented is touched with a brush\ndipped in 90$ alcohol, and the gold or silver\nleaf or bronze powder is applied, and adheres\ntenaciously.\nComposition.— The following recipes for the\ncompounding of sealing waxes will be found te\nembrace all that are of general utility.\nBlack.—\n1. Shellac 15 parts.\nTurpentine ..27 parts.\nPine resin .20 parts.\nChalk 12 parts.\nSoot 16 parts.\n2. Shellac. 16 parts.\nTurpentine 12 parts.\nResin 12 parts.\nChalk 3 parts.\nGypsum 2 parts.\nVine black 7 parts.\n3. Shellac 48 parts.\nTurpentine 52 parts.\nPine resin 46 parts.\nChalk 1 28 parts.\nSoot 8 parts.\nBoneblack 8 parts..\nAsphaltum 8 parts.\n4. Shellac 2 parts.\nYellow resin 3 parts..\nIvory black 2 parts.\nPowder fine and mix by melting carefully.\nFine.—\n5. Shellac 60 parts.\nVenice turpentime 20 parts.\nMelt shellac carefully; add Venice turpen-\ntine; stir in 30 parts of finely powdered ivory-\nblack.\nCommon.\n6. Resin 6 lb.\nShellac 2 lb.\nMelt; add 2 lb. Venice turpentine, and lamp-\nblack to color.\n7. Black Bottle Sealing Wax.— Take 6 parts\nof resin; 3 parts paraffin, melt together. Add\n283^ parts of lampblack. Another color can be\nproduced by taking about 5 to 7 parts to 100»\nparts of the mass, of chrome yellow, ultra-\nmarine, etc.\nBlue\n1. Shellac 7 parts.\nTurpentine 6 parts.\nPine resin 3}4 parts.\nMagnesia 1 part.\nChalk 2 parts.\n(2 to\n\\^Y% parts.\nBlue coloring matter.\n2. Shellac 2 parts.\nSmalts 1 part.\nYellow resin 2 parts.\nPowder and mix carefully with heat.\nLight Brown.— Take 7J^ oz. shellac and 4 oz.\nVenice turpentine, and color with 1 oz. brown\nocher and oz. cinnabar (red sulphuret of\nmercury or vermilion).\nBrown.—\nShellac 4 parts.\nTurpentine 12 parts.\nPine resin 8 parts.\nGypsum 4 parts.\nChalk 4 parts.\nUmber 4 parts.\nThe shellac for preparing chocolate brown\nsealing wax must not be too dark. The pro-\nduct of the above recipe is dark brown, and\nunbleached shellac and dark resin may be used\nfor preparing it.\nDeed\n1. Light colored rosin 12 parts.\nTurpentine 7 parts.\nClarified tallow 6 parts.\nWhiting 8 parts.\nMinium 6 parts.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0620.jp2"},"617":{"fulltext":"Alaxes.\n605\nWaxes.\n2. White wax.... 10 parts.\nTurpentine 3 parts.\nCinnabar 2 parts.\nGlycerine 1 part.\nThe ingredients are melted together and\nstirred while cooling off until they congeal.\n3. Colophony. 12 parts.\nTallow 6 parts.\nTurpentine ..12 parts.\nChalk ...16 parts.\nMinium .16 parts.\nGreen.—\n1. Shellac 14 parts.\nTurpentine 16 parts.\nPine resin 8 parts.\nMagnesia 3 parts.\nBerlin blue 5 parts.\nChrome yellow 5 parts.\n2. Shellac 15 parts.\nTurpentine .12 parts.\nPine resin 24 parts.\nGypsum 4^ parts.\nChalk 6 parts.\nMountain blue 9 parts.\nOcher 9 parts.\nGreen ultramarine maybe used to advantage\nfor the finer qualities, instead of a mixture of\ncolors.\nLetter, Without a Light.\nColophony 3 parts.\nResin 3 parts.\nSuet 3 parts.\nVenice turpentine 4 parts.\nPulverized carbonate of lime 4 parts.\nPulverized minium 4 parts.\nMelt the first 3 ingredients together, then add\nthe others in succession, stirring constantly till\ncold. Moniteur Quemeville.\nParcel.—\n1. Shellac 7 parts.\nRosin 13 parts.\nTurpentine 10 parts.\nOil of turpentine 1 part..\nChalk 3 parts.\nGypsum 2 parts.\nCinnabar 5 parts.\n2. Shellac 6 parts.\nRosin 24 parts.\nTurpentine.. 15 parts.\nOil of turpentine Impart.\nChalk 9 parts.\nGypsum 16 parts.\nMinium 18 parts.\n3. Shellac 1H part.\nResin 8^ parts.\nTurpentine 6 parts.\nOil of turpentine J^part.\nChalk 2 parts.\nBrickdust 1 part.\nColcothar 5 parts.\n4. Colophony ...20 parts.\nPine resin 10 parts.\nTurpentine 5 parts.\nChalk IVz parts.\nOil of turpentine y§ part.\n5. For brown, 10 parts umber or bole are\nadded to No. 4.\nReds.— Very fine reds are—\n1. Shellac 24 parts.\nTurpentine 16 parts.\nCinnabar 18 parts.\nOil of turpentine .4 parts.\nMagnesia 6 parts.\n2. Shellac 10 parts.\nTurpentine ...6 parts.\nOil of turpentine 1 part.\nChalk 1 part.\nMagnesia 2 parts.\nCinnnabar 8 parts.\n3. Shellac .20 parts.\nTurpentine 2 parts.\nOil of turpentine 1 part\nChalk 3 parts.\nGypsum. 3 parts.\nMagnesia part.\nCinnabar 12 parts.\nCommon.\n4. Resin 4 lb.\nShellac 2 lb.\nMelt. Mix in\nVenice turpentine M lb.\nRed lead M lb.\n5. Fine.— Melt cautiously 4 oz. pale shellac in\na copper vessel, at the lowest possible tempera-\nture; add 1J4 oz. of Venice turpentine, pre-\nviously warmed, and stir in 3 oz. vermilion,\npour into metallic moulds and allow it to\ncool.\n6. Shellac .50 parts.\nVenice turpentine 12*^ parts.\nChinese vermilion 373^ parts.\nMedium Fine Reds.\n1. Shellac 1 part.\nTurpentine 8 parts.\nOil 01 turpentine ]4 part.\nChalk 3 parts.\nMagnesia 1 part.\nCinnabar 6 parts.\n2. Shellac 12 parts.\nResin 8 parts.\nOil of turpentine 3 parts.\nTurpentine 14 parts.\nChalk 3 parts.\nGypsum 3 parts.\nCinnabar 9 parts.\n3. Shellac 4 parts.\nResin 6 parts.\nTurpentine 6 parts.\nOil of turpentine )4 part.\nChalk 2 parts.\nGypsum 1 part.\nCinnabar 4 parts.\nFine Red.—\nShellac 55 parts.\nTurpentine 74 parts.\nChalk or magnesia 30 parts.\nGypsum or zinc white 20 parts.\nCinnabar .13 parts.\nOrdinary Red.\n1. Shellac 52 parts.\nTurpentine 60 parts.\nPine resin 44 parts.\nChalk 18 parts.\nCinnabar 18 parts.\n2.Rosin 50 parts.\nRed lead 37J^ parts.\nTurpentine 12 parts.\nGold Sealing Wax.— Melt cautiously 4 oz. pale\nshellac in a copper vessel, at the lowest possi-\nble temperature add 1J4 oz. of Venice turpen-\ntine, previously warmed; and stir in 3 oz. mica\nspangles; pour into metallic moulds, and allow\nit to cool.\nTranslucent. A beautiful variety (a ven-\nturing which can be prepared at compara-\ntively low cost, is obtaiued by stirring finely\npowdered mica into the melted ground mass.\nGold and silver waxes are obtained by mixing\nfinely powdered leaf metal with the melted\nground mass. Ground masses for translucent\nwax are\n1. Bleached shellac 3 parts\nViscid turpentine 3 parts.\nMastic 6 parts.\nChalk 2 parts.\n2. Bleached shellac 15 parts.\nViscid turpentine 20 parts.\nMastic 25 parts.\nSulphate of baryta 15 parts.\nOr—\nNitrate of bismuth 15 parts.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0621.jp2"},"618":{"fulltext":"Waxes.\n606\nWelding.\n3. Bleached shellac 3 parts.\nViscid turpentine. 4 parts.\nMastic 5 parts.\nNitrate of bismuth ...3 parts.\nCheap Sealing Wax. The following- recipe\nfurnishes a cheap sealing- wax, useful for many\npurposes. Melt together—\n1. Common beeswax 2 lb.\nTurpentine 6 oz.\nOlive oil 2 oz.\nRed lead 6 oz.\nBoil a little, and stir until it is almost cold;\nthen cast it into cold water, and make it up in-\nto rolls or cakes.\n2. Resin 4 lb.\nShellac 2 lb.\nVenice turpentine 1J^ lb.\nRed lead 1J^ lb.\nMix and melt.\nColored Sealing Wax.\nPale shellac 4 oz.\nWhite resin 1*4 oz.\nVenice turpentine 2 oz.\nAdd a finely powdered pigment of the re-\nquired color.\nColorless Sealing Wax-\nBeeswax 11 parts.\nTurpentine 3 parts.\nRhine oil 1 part.\nShellac 5 parts.\nMix with heat.\nSoft Sealing Wax for Diplomas.\nYellow wax 24 parts.\nTurpentine i}4 parts.\nOlive oil V/% parts.\nAfter these ingredients are melted, stir in\ncinnabar, or other coloring matter.\nSealing Wax, to Dissolve.— Buy the best fine\nsealing wax, break up as small as possible, and\nput into a bottle containing methylated spirit;\nleave for a day or two to thoroughly dissolve,\nunless in a hurry, when the process may be\nhastened by keeping the bottle immersed in\nwarm— but not boiling— water, or you will have\nan explosion.\nTo Make Sheet Wax.— Dr. H. E. Beach, Clarks-\nville, Teun., says Take of pure clean wax any-\nwhere from 1 to 5 lb., put in a tin bucket or\nany deep vessel, with clear water sufficient to\nfill it within 2}4 in. of the top. Set on the stove\ntill thoroughly melted, then set aside until par-\ntially cooled skim all the air bubbles off. Then\nfill a smooth, straight bottle with ice water, a\nbucket of which you should have by you. Soap\nthe bettle and dip it deliberately in the solution\ntwo or more times, according to the thickness\nyou desire your wax. After the last dip, as soon\nas the wax hardens to whiteness, cut a line\nthrough it and remove it from the bottle as\nquickly as possible. Spread to cool and\nstraighten out smooth while warm. Continue\nthis process until all the wax is made into\nsheets.\nAny office boy or girl can do the work, and\nmake enough sheet wax in an hour equal to\nany you can buy— to last a whole year. Par-\naffine, or paraffine and wax, may be made in the\nsame way, and colored and perfumed to suit\none s fancy. The water in the bottle should\nalways be kept cold, in order to get the best\nresults.— Archives of Dentistry.\nShoemakers Wax.— This is made by melting\ntogether the best Swedish pitch and tallow in a\nvessel over the fire. The quantity of tallow\nmust be determined by experiment. Roll into\nballs. The right kind of pitch is of a brown\ncolor when fractured.\nWaxing Soap Papers. Ordinary waxed paper\nis prepared by placing cartridge or other paper\non a hot iron, and rubbing it with beeswax, or\nby brushing in a solution of wax in turpentine.\nOn a large scale, it is prepared by opening a\nquire of paper flat upon a table, and rapidly-\nironing it with a very hot iron against which is\nheld a piece of wax, which melting, runs down\nupon the paper and is absorbed by it. Any ex-\ncess on the topmost layer readily penetrates to\nthe lower ones.\nSugar Cane Wax.— Cerosin.— Obtained by rasp-\ning the bark of the cane, and purifying by re-\ncrystallization from boiling alcohol. Its com-\nposition is said to be C 4 sH 96 2 Melts at about\n82° C.\nWax for Waxing Threads to be Woven.—\nMelted beeswax 2]4 -parts.\nPulverized soap stone y^ part.\nPulverized graphite 2 parts.\nTree Wax.— Sixty parts finely powdered lime.\n20 parts of fine charcoal are mixed with q. s. of\nlinseed oil. Apply with a brush.\nWax Milk.— Boil 1 part yehow soap, 3 parts\nJapanese wax in 21 parts wa~er, until the soap\ndissolves. Used for polishing carved wood-\nwork.\nWeeds, to Destroy.— 1. The best way, says\na correspondent, to apply salt to paths, to\ndestroy weeds, is as follows Boil the salt in\nwater, 1 lb. to 1 gal., and apply the mixture\nboiling hot with a watering pot that has a\nspreading rose; this will keep weeds and worms\naway for two or three years. Put 1 lb. to the\nsquare yd. the first year; afterward a weaker\nsolution may be applied when required.\n2. The plants should be cut off close to the\nground and a few drops of coal oil poured on\nto the crowns. They immediately commence\nto decay and are utterly destroyed. Trouble-\nsome weeds on the lawn can thus be speedily\ndisposed of, but others will likely take their\nplace.\nW r eight, Measures of. See Appendix.\nWeights and Measures. See Appen-\ndix.\nWelding, Simple Directions for.— The\ngreat secret of welding is to have a clean fire,.\nthen heat the iron and strike while the iron\nis hot. Make the fire of blacksmiths coal\nwhich has been caked (coke). If the work is\nsmall have only a little fire. As the weld re-\nquires considerable pounding, plenty of stock\nshould be left by using generous laps. Be sure\nthe laps fit well before welding. When the\niron gets from a red go a white heat sand the\niron without removing from the fire and watch\nthe iron carefully. When it sparks freely and\nhas a glazed appearance, remove from the fire,\nlay quickly, after a shake to remove the oxide,\nand pound the lap well until the iron becomes\ntoo cold to work.\nWelding, Composition for.— 1. To 20 parts of\niron filings, add 10 parts of borax and 1)4 part\nsal ammoniac, and 1 part of balsam of copaiva\nor other resinous oil. Mix well, heated and\npulverized. The surfaces to be united are\npowdered with this mixture after which\nplace the article in the fire and let it come to\na cherry red heat; when the composition\nmelts, take the portions to be welded from the\nfire and join together. This composition is\nused in Germany with great success.\n2. Another composition for welding consists\nof thirty parts of borax, 4 parts of sal am-\nmoniac, and 4 parts of cyanide of potash. Dis-\nsolve in water, and then evaporate the water\nat a low temperature.\nCopper, Welding.— 1. (Rust.) Prepare a mix-\nture of 358 parts soda phosphate, 124 parts bor-\nacic acid apply the powder when the metal is\nat a dull red heat it is then brought to a\ncherry red and at once hammered. As the\nmetal is apt to soften when exposed to a high\ndegree of heat,a wooden hammer is recommend-\ned. Remove all carbonaceous matter from the\nsurfaces to be joined, as the success of the\noperation depends on the formation of a fusible\nphosphate of copper. The phosphate of cop-\nper dissolves a thin film of oxide on the sur-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0622.jp2"},"619":{"fulltext":"Welding.\n607\nWelding.\nfaces of the metal, keeping them clean, and in\ncondition to weld.\nWeldableby Electricity.— Following- is a list\nof the different materials which have been suc-\ncessfully welded together by the Thompson\nprocess, which may be of interest, inasmuch as\nthe term welding is ordinarily used with espe-\ncial reference to the joining of two pieces or\nmaterial of the same or closely allied composi-\ntion:\nMetals.— Wrought iron, cast iron, malleable\niron, wrought copper, cast copper, lead, tin,\nzinc, antimony, cobalt, nickel, bismuth,; alum-\ninum, silver, platinum, gold (pure), manganese,\nmagnesium.\nAlloys.— Stubs steel, cast brass, gun metal,\nchrome steel, Mushet steel, Crescent steel, Bes-\nsemer steel, steel castings, brass composition,\nvarious grades of tool steel, various grades of\nmild steel, fuse metal, type metal, coin silver,\nsolder metal, German silver, silicon bronze,\naluminum brass, phosphor bronze, aluminum\nbronze, various grades of gold, aluminum al-\nloyed with iron.\nCombinations\nCopper to brass.\nCopper to wrought iron.\nCopper to German silver.\nCopper to gold.\nCopper to silver.\nBrass to wrought iron.\nBrass to cast iron.\nTin to zinc.\nTin to brass.\nBrass to German silver.\nBrass to tin.\nBrass to mild steel.\nWrought iron to cast iron.\nWrought iron to cast steel.\nWrought iron to mild steel.\nWrought iron to tool steel.\nGold to German silver.\nGold to silver.\nGold to platinum.\nSilver to platinum.\nWrought iron to Mushet steel.\nWrought iron to Stubs steel.\nWrought iron to Crescent steel.\nWrought iron to cast brass.\nWrought iron to German silver.\nWrought iron to nickel.\nTin to lead.\nIt will be seen from the foregoing that ma-\nterials heretofore impossible to weld to pieces\nof similar composition have been welded, and\nnot only this, but different combinations have\nbeen made, which are entirely impossible by\nordinary methods.\nFluxes, Welding.— 1. A welding material com-\nposed of 25 parts by weight of borax, a paper\nor metallic support, and 60 parts metallic filings\nof the same nature as tbe metals to be welded,\nand made by first melting the borax; second, im-\nmersing the support in the fused borax; third,\nsmoothing the same by passing it through pres-\nsure rollers; fourth, sprinkling its two faces\nwith the metal filings; fifth, heating the sheet\nin an oven; sixth, passing through pressure rol-\nlers.\n2. A welding material composed of borax and\nof metallic filings of the same nature as the\nmetals to be welded, mixed with the fused\nborax, and in the proportions substantially as\nset forth, and then rolled out into sheets of\nabout T V in. thick.\n3. The welding sheets coated with a layer of\ngum lac or other appropriate varnish\nThe following compound has been frequently\noffered as a trade secret Take copperas, 2 oz.;\nsaltpeter, 1 oz.; common salt, 6 oz.: black oxide\nof manganese, 1 oz.; prussiate of potash, 1 oz.\nPulverize these ingredients and mix with them\n3 lb. nice welding sand.\nIron and Steel together, Welding.— Nothing\nis better than borax and good management.\nHave the iron sparkling hot. *teel bright\ncherry. Make the weld at first blow. Long ex-\nperience necessary.\nPowder, Welding.— Belgian Welding Powder.\n1. Iron Clings, 800 parts; borax, 400 parts; bal-\nsam of copaiba or other resinous oil, 40 parts;\nsal ammoniac, 60 parts. Mix, heat, and pul-\nverize finely Powder the surfaces to be welded,\nbring to a cherry red heat, at which the powder\nmelts; take from the fire and join.\n2. Calcine and pulverize together 50 parts iron\nor steel filings, 5 parts sal ammoniac, 3 parts\nborax, 2}4 parts balsam copaiba. Heat one of\nthe pieces to be welded red, carefully clean\nolf scale, spread the powder upon it; apply the\nother piece at a white heat, and weld with a\nhammer. Used for welding iron and steel, or\nboth, together.\nSteel, Welding to Cast Iron.— Heat the steel to\ncherry red (after it is shaped to correspond to\nthe surface of the cast iron to which it is to\nbe joined). Apply borax to the surfaces to be\nwelded. Heat the parts to a welding heat.\nApply strong pressure, without hammering,\nwhich will securely weid the steel and iron.\nSteel Welding.— 1. An excellent composition\nfor welding cast steel is prepared by boiling\ntogether 16 parts borax and 1 part sal ammoniac\nover a slow fire for 1 hour. When cold, grind\nit to powder. The steel must then be made as\nhot as it will conveniently bear, and the com-\nposition used the same as sand.\n2. Take copperas, 2 oz.; saltpeter, 1 oz.; com-\nmon salt, 6 oz.; black oxide of manganese, 1 oz.;\nprussiate of potash, 1 oz.; pulverize and mix\nwith welding sand, 3 lb. Use it in the same\nway as you would sand.\n3. Ten parts borax, 1 part sal ammoniac\npulverize together thoroughly, with which\nsprinkle the parts to be welded.\nWelding Cast Steel. 4. To make composition\nused in welding cast steel, take of borax 10\nparts; sal ammoniac, 1 part; grind or pound\nroughly together; then fuse in a metal pot\nover a clear fire, continuing the heat until all\nspume has disappeared from the surface.\nWhen the liquid appears clear, the composition\nis ready to be poured out to cool and concrete.\nTo prepare it for use it is ground to a fine\npowder. The steel to be welded is raised to a\nbright yellow heat, and then dipped into this\nwelding powder it is then placed in the fire\nagain and when it attains the same heat as\nbefore, it is ready to be placed under the ham-\nmer.\n5. A mass of ingredients is sold for the pur-\npose of welding cast steel, but the simplest and\nbest method is, according to the Revue Indiis-\ntrielle, the one employed by Fiala, of Prague,\nBohemia. He uses pulverized white marble\nfor the purpose. The two pieces to be welded\ntogether are heated, and, alter rolling in marble\ndust, are promptly joined together, and sub-\njected to a good hammering.\n6. Welding Cast Steel Without Borax.— Cop-\nperas, 4 parts saltpeter, 2 parts prussiate of\npotash, 2 parts; black oxide of magnesia, 2\nparts; common salt, 12 parts; all pulverized.\nMix with good welding sand 48 parts, and use\nprecisely the same as you would sand.\n7. Composition for Welding Cast Steel.—\nSlightly color pulverized borax with dragon s\nblood. Heat the steel red hot, shake the borax\nover it. Place in the fire until the borax\nsmokes, which will be much below ordinary\nwelding heat; then hammer the steel.\n8. Composition Used in Welding Cast Steel.—\nBorax, 15 parts; sal ammoniac, ty* part; grind\nor pound together fuse, continuing the heat\nuntil all scum has disappeared from the sur-\nface. When the liquid is clear pour out to cool,\nthen grind to a fine powder. Heat the steel to\nbe welded to a bright yellow, dip in the weld-\ning powder, place in the fire again, until it at-\ntains the same degree of heat as before. Then\nplace under the hammer.\n9. Shear and double shear steel are easily weld-\ned, and the latter will answer almost all the","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0623.jp2"},"620":{"fulltext":"Whisky.\n608\nWhitewash.\npurposes of cast steel. Cast steel, however, is\nmore difficult to weld, but it can be done by\npractice. Care must be taken not to heat too\nhot, or it will fall to pieces under the hammer.\nUse powdered borax as a flux.\nWhale Oil. See Oils.\nWhisky. See Liquors.\nWhite Alloys. See Alloys.\nWhite Metal. See Alloys.\nWhite Pigments. See Pigments.\nWhitewash.— 1. A good durable white-\nwash is made as follows: Take y bushel of\nfreshly burnt lime, slake it with bofling water\ncover it during the process, to keep in the\nsteam. Strain the liquid through a fine sieve,\nand add to it 7 lb. of salt previously well dis-\nsolved in warm water; 3 lb. of ground rice\nboiled to a thin paste and stirred in boiling hot;\nY lb. of powdered Spanish whiting; l lb. of\nclean glue, which has been previously dissolved\nby soaking it well, and then hanging it over a\nslow fire in a small kettle, within a large one\nfilled with water. Add 5 gal. of hot water to\nthe mixture, stir it well, and let it stand a few\ndays covered from dirt. It must be put on\nquite hot. For this purpose it can be kept in a\nkettle on a portable furnace. About 1 pt. of\nthis mixture will cover a square yard.\n2. A Wash for Fences, etc.— White lime,\nbushel hydraulic cement, 3 pecks umber and\nocher, each 10 lb.; Venetian red, 1 lb.; lamp-\nblack, J4 lb.; slake the lime, shake up the\nJampblack with a little vinegar, mix well toge-\nther, add the cement, and fill the barrel with\nwater. Let it stand several hours; stir fre-\nquently. A larger proportion of ocher gives\na darker color. Use only 1 coat. This is said\nto look well after five years use.\n3. Whitewash that Will Not Rub Off.— Mix\ny% pt. flour with water; pour on boiling water\nenough to thicken it. Pour while hot, into a\npailful of lime and water, which has been\nmixed ready to put on the wall. Stir all well\ntogether.\n4. Whitewash, U. S. Government.— The fol-\nlowing coating for rough brick walls is used\nby the U. S. government for painting light-\nhouses, and it effectually prevents moisture\nfrom striking through Take of fresh Rosen-\ndale cement, 3 parts, and of clean, fine sand,\n1 part; mix with fresh water thoroughly.\nThis gives a gray or granite color, dark or light,\naccording to the color of the cement. If brick\ncolor is desired, add enough Venetian red to\nthe mixture to produce the color. If a very\nlight color is desired, lime ntay be used with\nthe cement and sand. Care must be taken to\nhave all the ingredients well mixed together.\nIn applying the Avash, the wall must be wet\nwith clean fresh water; then follow immediate-\nly with the cement wash. This prevents the\nbricks from absorbing the water from the wash\ntoo rapidly, and gives time for the cement to\nset. The wash must be well stirred during the\napplication. The mixture is to be made as\nthick as can be applied conveniently with a\nwhitewash brush It is admirably suited for\nbrickwork, fences, etc., but it cannot be used\nto advantage over paint or whitewash.\n5. Whitewash, Incombustible. Slake stone lime\nin a large tub or barrel with boiling water,\ncovering the tub or barrel, to keep in all the\nsteam. When thus slaked, pass 6 qt. of it\nthrough a fine sieve. It will then be in a\nstate of fine flour. Now, to 6 qt. of this lime,\nadd 1 qt. of rock or Turk s Island salt and\n1 gal. of water; then boil the mixture and skim\nit clean. To every 5 gal. of this skimmed mix-\nture add 1 lb. of alum, 14 lb. of copperas; by\nslow degrees, add lb. of potash and 4qt. of\nfine sand or hickory ashes, sifted. We suppose\nany kind of good hard wood ashes will answer\nas well as hickory. This mixture Avill now\nadmit of any coloring matter you please, and\nmay be applied with a brush. It looks better\nthan paint, and is as durable as slate. It will\nstop small leaks in the roof, prevent the moss\nfrom growing over and rotting the wood, and\nrender it incombustible from sparks falling\nupon it. When laid upon brick work, it ren-\nders the brick impervious to rain or wet.\n6. Well wash the ceiling by wetting it twice\nwith water, laying on as much as can well be\nfloated on, then rub the old color up with a\nstumpy brush and wipe off with a large sponge.\nWhen this is done, stop all the cracks with\nwhiting and plaster of Paris. When dry, clair-\ncole with size and a little of the whitewash. If\nvery much stained, when this is dry, paint\nthose parts with turps, color, and, if necessary,\nclaircole again. To make the whitewash, take\n1 dozen lb. of whiting (in large balls), break\nthem up in a pail, and cover with water to\nsoak. During this time melt over a slow fire\n4 lb. common size, and at the same time, with a\npalette knife or small trowel, rub up fine about\na dessertspoonful of blue black with water to\na fine paste then pour the water off the top of\nthe whiting, and with a stick stir in the black\nwhen well mixed, stir in the melted size and\nstrain. When cold it is fit for use. If the jelly\nis too stiff for use, beat it well up and add a\nlittle cold water. Commence whitewashing\nover the window, and so work from the light\nlay off the work into that done, and not all in\none direction, as in painting. Distemper col-\nor of any tint may be made by using any\nother color instead of the blue black— as ocher,\nchrome, Dutch pink, raw sienna for yellows and\nbuff; Venetian red, burnt sienna, Indian red,\nor purple brown for reds celestial blue, ultra-\nmarine, indigo for blues; red and blue for\npurple, gray, or lavender red lead and chrome\nfor orange Brunswick green for greens.\n7. Whitewash for Outdoor Use. Quick-\nlime, Mbu.; slake, add J^ lb. common salt;J4\nlb. sulphate of zinc (white vitriol) 2 qt. sweet\nmilk. Dissolve the salt and white vitriol be-\nfore adding. Mix, with sufficient water to give\nthe proper consistency. Apply as soon as pos-\nsible.\n8. Whitewash for Fenees or Outbuildings.—\nSlack the lime in boiling water. To 1J^ gal.\nordinary whitewash add y% pt. molasses and\npt. table salt. Stir frequently while applying.\nTwo thin coats are sufficient.\nTo Keep Whitewash.— Keep the lime covered\nwith water in a covered tub. It the water\nevaporates, the lime is useless, but if kept cov-\nered it will be good for a long time.\nTo Color and Prevent Whitewash from Rub-\ning Off.— Give the desired color by adding small\nquantities of lampblack, brown sienna, ocher,\nor other coloring material. Add alum to lime\nwhitewash to prevent rubbing off.\nWhitewash for Outdoor Use. Put into a\nwater tight barrel J4 bushel lime. Slake by\npouring boiling water over it, enough to cover 5\ninch deep, stirring until thoroughly slaked.\nWhen it is slaked add 1 lb. sulphate of zinc\nand y% lb. common salt, dissolved in water.\nThe above wash may be made cream color by\nadding V/^ lb. yellow ocher.\nWlnteivash for Damp Walls.— For brickwork\nexposed to damp, take half a peck of well\nburned quicklime, fi*esh from the kiln, slake\nwith hot water sufficient to reduce it to a\npaste, and pass it through a fine sieve; add a\ngallon of clean white salt which has been dis-\nsolved, in a small quantity of boiling water,\nand a thin, smooth paste, also hot, made from\n1 lb. of fine rice flour; also J4 of a lb. of the\nbest white glue, made in the water bath. Mix\ntogether, stir well, add *4 of a lb. of best\nSpanish whiting in 5 qt. of boiling water; stir,\ncover to retain heat and exclude dust, and let it\nstand a week. Heat to boiling, stir, and apply\nhot. The above proportions will cover forty\nsquare yards. Scientific American.\nZinc Whitewash.— Common size mixed with\noxide of zinc apply to the ceiling with a brush.\nThen apply a wash of chloride of zinc. This","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0624.jp2"},"621":{"fulltext":"Whiting.\n609\nWines.\nwill combine with the oxide, and form a\nsmooth cement, with a glossy surface.\nWhitewash, a Waterproof.— Kesenschek, of\nMunich, mixes together the powder from 3\nparts of silicious rock (quartz), 3 parts broken\nmarble and sandstone, also 2 parts of burned\nporcelain clay, with 2 parts of freshly slaked\nlime, still warm. In this way a wash is made\nwhich forms a silicate if often wetted, and be-\ncomes, after a time, almost like stone. The\nfour constituents, mixed together, give the\nground color, to which any pigment that can\nbe used with lime is added. It is applied quite\nthickly to the wall or other surface, let dry one\nday, and the next day frequently covered with\nwater, which makes it waterproof. This wash\ncan be cleansed with water without losing any\nof its color; on the contrary, each time it gets\nharder, so that it can even be brushed, while\nits porosity makes it look soft. The wash, or\ncalcimine, can be used for ordinary purposes,\nas well as for the finest painting. A so-called\nfresco surface can be prepared with it in the\ndry way.\nWhiting. —Whiting is made from chalk\nground with water; only the finer and lighter\nparticles are taken. It is sometimos called\nwhitening.\nWhiting, to Make into a Polishing Cake.— Use\nplaster of Paris or dental plaster. Mix with\nwater. Apply with a rag.\nWhiting Balls.— Whiting can be pressed into\nballs after moistening it with thin gum water.\nWicks*. Lamp, Incombustible. See\nFireproofing.\nWindows.— To keep frost, etc., off plate\nglass windows keep the inside air dry, or inner\nsash tight, so that the air in window inclosure\nwill be cold, and ventilated from the outside.\nA partial remedy is to have ventilating open-\nings in the top of the window casing.\nWindows, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nWindows, Frosty.— A thin coat of pure\nglycerine applied to both sides of the glass will\nprevent any moisture forming thereon, and\nwill stay until it collects so much dust that it\ncannot be seen through. Surveyors can use it\nto advantage on their instruments in foggy\nweather. In fact, it can be used anywhere to\nprevent moisture from forming on anything,\nand locomotive engineers will find it particu-\nlarly useful in preventing the accumulation of\nsteam as well as frost on their windows during\nthe cold weather.\nWines and Wine Making.\nWine Making. —The grapes are not removed\nfrom the vine until they are quite ripe. As\nthe maturation not only of different varieties,\nbut of the same kind, is dependent upon the\nseason, no stated period can be fixed for the\ncommencement of the vintage. The grapes are\nready to be gathered when the white kind be-\ncomes of a brownish yellow color, and the red\nor blue, very dark purple or nearly black.\nShears, pruning knives, or scissors, are used\nfor the removal of the fruit from the vine.\nTjj making the finer wines, previous to being\npressed, the bunches are carefully examined,\nand any unripe or damaged grapes are picked\noff and used to make inferior wine, or in the\ngathering the unripe specimens are left on the\nbranch to ripen. The blue and dark varieties,\nwhen intended for the best wines, are, with few\nexceptions, removed from the stalks before\nbeing pressed; the white grapes are pressed\nwith the stalkSo\nExcept with those grapes which produce\nwines that are likely to become viscous or ropy,\nthe stalks are not left for any length of time\nin contact with the grape juice or must. There\nare various modes of separating the grapes\nfrom the stalks. One method consists in the\nemployment of a wooden fork or trident, M yd.\nor more in length; by turning this round in a\nwooden pail filled with the fruit, the grapes\nbecome detached from the stalks, which arc\nthus brought to the surface and removed.\nIn an other contrivance the separation is ef-\nfected by inclosing the bunches in cages made\nof parallel wires. Inside the cage there is a\nstirrer; when this is turned by an external\nhandle, the grapes alone drop through the\nwires, leaving the stalks in the cage. Some-\ntimes the separation is accomplished by means\nof hurdles, which are so manipulated that the\nfruit only shall pass through the meshes.\nPrevious to their being pressed, the grapes\nhave to undergo the preliminary process of\nbruising or crushing. This is sometimes done\nby their being trodden under the naked feet of\nmen, on a large wooden stage or platform; at\nother times the men wear heavy boots, while\nin some cases the grapes are placed in a vat\nand bruised with a kind of wooden pestle.\nSometimes they are crushed between wooden\ngrooved rollers. Of all these processes, the first,\nalthough the least cleanly, possesses the advan-\ntage of not crushing the pips or stalks, and is\nthus free from the risk of imparting an un-\npleasant flavor to the wine.\nThere is considerable divergence in the state-\nments of different writers as to the yield of\nmust or juice from ripe grapes. Payen says it\namounts to from 94 to 96$ of the total weight\nof the grape. Dupre and Thudichum obtained\nfrom three samples of grapes respectively 78 75#,.\n76 75^, and T2 2b%. Wagner averages it from\nabout 60 or 70$.\nWhen a white wine is required, the bruised\ngrape, whether of the white or red variety, is\nat once pressed, except when, as happens with\nsome kinds of fruit, it is kept to allow of the\ndevelopment of the bouquet. The mode of pro-\ncedure is different when a red wine is to be pre-\npared. The crushed grapes must then be kept\nin a tub or vat, loosely covered over, until an\nexamination of a small quantity of the juice\nshows it has acquired the necessary color. For\nit to do this sometimes takes from three or four\ndays to a month.\nDuring this period, alcohol has been formed\nin the pulp, and this, with the tartaric acid of\nthe fruit, has dissolved out the coloring princi-\nple of the grape. Great care is necessary at this\nstage to prevent the too long exposure of the\ncrushed and fermenting fruit to the air.\nWine presses are of various patterns.\nIn many wine making establishments, iron\npresses have supplanted wooden ones, over\nwhich they possess the advantages of greater\ncleanliness and non absorption of the must.\nThe wine press in general use in the Gh onde\nconsists of a tail, round basket, made of perpen-\ndicular laths. The fruit is placed in this basket,\nand upon the fruit a wooden block, to which a\nscrew is attached a nut works upon the screw\nfrom above downward, and presses the wooden\nblock upon the fruit, the liquid from which is\nforced out through the laths and collected.\nIn the manufacture of champagne and some\nred wines, very powerful presses are employed\nbut these possess the objection of pressing the\nfixed oil from the pips and an unpleasantly\ntasting juice from the stalks, and thereby dam-\naging the product. In some establishments,\ncentrifugal machines have been used, not only\nwith the result of yielding a better wine, but\nof effecting a considerable gain in time and\nlabor.\nThe must, being received into proper recep-\ntacles, next undergoes the vinuos fermentation.\nIn the case of white wines the must is kept\nseparate from that subsequently procured\nby submitting the husks, pips, and stalks to ad-\nditional pressure, and is sold as the first or su-\nperior wine.\nBut with red wines the husks (and in some\ncases the marc) are thrown into the fermenting\nvat, by which means the wine acquires an ad-\nditional amount of coloring matter. In this\ncase, when the completed wine is drawn off, the\nhusks are again pressed, and the wine so ob-","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0625.jp2"},"622":{"fulltext":"Wines.\n610\nWines,\ntained added to the first instalment. As the\ntannic acid is derived from the skins and seeds\nof the grape, wines prepared in this manner\nusually contain a considerable amount of this\nsubstance.\nThe fermentation is conducted in different\ncountries at different temperatures, and, of\ncourse, with different results. When must is\nfermented at 15° to 20° Cent. (59° to 68° Fah.) it\nyields a wine strong in alcohol, but wanting- in\nbouquet while if the fermentation be carried\non at 5° to 15° Cent. (41° to 59° Fah.) the pro-\nduct will be a wine rich in bouquet, but poor in\nalcohol.\nThe wines of Spain, the south of France, Aus-\ntria and Hungary, are produced at the higher\ntemperature, and those of Germany, for the\nmost part at the lower one. The fermentation\nis carried on in large wooden vats. In some\nplaces vats of sandstone or brick are used for\nthis purpose. The fermentation of white wines,\nsuch as those of the Rhine and Gironde, is ef-\nfected in new and perfectly clean casks or\nhogsheads, the bungholes of which are left open\nto allow the escape of the carbonic acid. Opin-\nions differ as to whether air should be admitted\nor not during fermentation. The process is\nundoubtedly quickened if the must be aerated.\nThe aeration is sometimes performed by a bel-\nlows fitted with a rose nozzle. During the\noperation of blowing in, the must is to be kept\nat a low temperature, to prevent the volatili-\nzation of the bouquet. When the opposite\nmethod is followed, various devices are in use\nfor excluding the air, or at any rate an excess\nof it. In some cases the vat, being provided\nwith a suitable lid, has a hole, or is arranged\nwith a tube, for the escape of the carbonic\nacid. Koles and Bamberger accomplish the\nsame end, without letting in the external\nair, by means of a glass tube bent twice at\nright angles; one limb of the tube passes\nthrough the bunghole into the wine and the\nother or outer limb into a vessel of water. In\nanother contrivance the lid of the vat is fitted\nwith a valve, which, opening only outward, al-\nlows of the exit of the carbonic acid.\nRed wines are fermented in large and, in\nmost cases, open vats, fitted in the inside with\nperforated shelves, which, being below the sur-\nface of the liquid, prevent the husks rising to\nthe top, and setting up acetous fermentation.\nAfter the completion of the fermentation Of\nBurgundy wines, in some places it is the filthy\ncustom for men to enter the vat, and by their\nvigorous movements to mix the contents.\nIt is satisfactory to learn that this particu-\nlarly objectionable practice is getting some-\nwhat into disuse.\nThe length of time necessary for the comple-\ntion of the fermentation varies with the local-\nity, the temperature of the apartment, and\nwith the quality of the wine required. In\nFrance, for the ordinary descriptions of wine,\nit generally takes from three days to a week,\nand in Germany from one to two weeks;\nwith the finer kinds of wine it occupies four,\nfive or six weeks. The progress of the fer-\nmentation may be estimated from the specific\ngravity of the liquid, since as the fermentation\nproceeds, and the sugar is undergoing conver-\nsion into alcohol, the wine, of course, becomes\nmore attenuated and its specific gravity di-\nminishes. It has been calculated that half per\ncent, of the alcohol present in the wine escapes\nduring fermentation, as well as a considerable\nquantity of carbonic acid. An apparatus has\nbeen invented for collecting these products, by\ncausing them to pass into water by means of a\nhydraulic bung.\nWhen the fermentation is over the wine is\nrun into casks, any sediment, such as lees or\nyeast, being left behind in the fermenting ves-\nsel. It is most important that the casks used\nfor this purpose should be absolutely clean.\nBefore a cask is used a second time it should\nbe thoroughly sulphured.\nThose wines which contain a large amount of\nalcohol are sometimes allowed to remain in the\nfermenting vat until they have cleared; but\nweak wines are immediately drawn off into\nthe cask, to prevent the setting in of the acetous\nfermentation. The casks must be filled to the\nbungholes. A second or minor fermentation\ntakes place in the wine when in the cask, dur-\ning which tartar or bitartrate of potash is de-\nposited on the sides of the cask, and yeast at\nthe bottom. This second fermentation should\nbe allowed to go on at a low temperature, 5° to\n10° C. (41° to 50° F.), and at a slow rate. In\nsome cases it is made to extend to three or\nsix months.\nWhen the second fermentation is over, the\ncasks are filled to the bunghole and securely\nclosed, or the wine is at once drawn into fresh\ncasks to be stored. In these it remains closely\nbunged up until more tartar is deposited, after\nwhich it may be racked off into bottles or\ncasks. When wine is to be stored for any\nlength of time it is necessary to repeat the\nracking off frequently. Racking is performed\nby means of a siphon inserted in the bunghole,\nor by a cock suitably fixed in the cask. If the\nracked wine is not perfectly clear, it is fined by\nthe addition of isinglass, previously softened by\nsoaking in a small quantity of wine. After the\naddition of the isinglass, the cask is then filled\nto the bunghole, closed, and remains undis-\nturbed for about six weeks, and if, at the end\nof that time, it is not perfectly bright, it is\nmade to undergo a second racking. In wine\nmaking countries, blood and solution of glue\nare sometimes used for fining red wines which\ncontain much tannin. Milk is also occasionally\nemployed for the same purpose. The racking\nshould be performed in cool weather, and pre-\nferably in the early spring.\nThe manufacture of champagne differs in its\ndetails from that of the so-called still wine.\nThe best wine is made from a black grape of\nvery fine quality, known as the Noirien, or\nPineau, and grown in the champagne district.\nNone but the best selected grapes are used all\nthose that are rotten, unripe, or in any way un-\nsound, being rejected. The grapes are gath-\nered when they have attained their greatest\nsize. The vintage commences early in October.\nTo prevent the juice being colored by the skin\nof the grape, the fruit is submitted to pressure\nas quickly as possible after being gathered.\nVery powerful machines are employed for this\npurpose, since the champagne grape, unlike\nother varieties, is not previously crushed.\nGreat care is taken to apply the pressure evenly\nand to conduct the operation with all expedi-\ntion, for if this exceeds two hours the must will\nbe colored. The grapes are sometimes pressed\nfour times. In good seasons the must obtained\nfrom the different pressings is mixed together.\nIn middling ones the first yield is kept for\nmaking the best wines, nor is the fourth mixed\nwith the other two. The light colored must is\nfirst conveyed into a large vat, where it re-\nmains for six, twelve, or eighteen hours, ac-\ncording to the temperature.\nAt the end of this time certain vegetable\nmatters that would damage the taste of the en-\nsuing wine, as well as render it liable to a\nsecond fermentation, become deposited. Di-\nrectly the must has cleared it is run into small\nbarrels of 2,000 liters capacity, in which it un-\ndergoes fermentation. Sometimes the clearing\nof the juice is accomplished by filtration; at\nothers, when the weather is warm and fermen-\ntation sets in so rapidly as not to allow the im-\npurities to subside, it is run into casks filled\nwith the fumes from burning sulphur by this\nmeans the excessive fermentative action is ar-\nrested, and sufficient time is given for the dregs\nto settle. The juice having been made clear by\neither of the above methods, is drawn into bar-\nrels, which are arranged in rows in the cellars.\nThe barrels are filled to the bung, the froth\nwhich is formed during the fermentation flow-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0630.jp2"},"623":{"fulltext":"Wines.\n611\nWines.\ning out at the bungholes. In some wine making\nestablishments, the barrels are tightly bunged\nup, there being previously added to the con-\ntents 1% of brandy. The casks are opened at\nthe end of December, and the wine fined by\nmeans of isinglass; this operation being con-\nducted at the lowest possible temperature. If,\nat the end of a fortnight, it has not become\nbright, it is left for another fortnight, and\nthen, if not clear, it undergoes a second fining-.\nThe fining process must be used with caution\nwhen overdone it diminishes, and frequently\nstops the activity of the subsequent fermenta-\ntion. To obviate this, the wine should] be judi-\nciously exposed to the air, and a minute quan-\ntity of yeast added to each hogshead before it\nis bottled.\nWhen the wine has cleared, before being bot-\ntled, cane sugar is added to it, since the quan-\ntity of undecomposed natural sugar in the wine\nis not sufficient to furnish the requisite amount\nof carbonic acid gas, the ingredient to which\nchampagne owes its effervescent properties.\nChampagne bottles constitute a very consid-\nerable item in the trade expenses of the wine\nmaker. He pays the glass manufacturer 28\nfrancs a hundred for them and some wine\nmakers give orders for as many as from 50,000\nto 250,000 at a time.\nThe bottles as they arrive are examined by\nan experienced person, and those which con-\ntain flaws of any kind, or are not perfectly new,\nsymmetrical, and strong are rejected. These\naverage about 10$. The bottles are required\nto be as nearly as possible of uniform weight\nand thickness. The inside of each bottle is\nscrubbed by means of a revolving hair brush\nand clean water. After being drained, the bot-\ntles are rinsed with 90% alcohol and closed\nwith an old but clean cork. They are thus\nready, when required, for filling 1 The wine\nmaker also expends a large amount of money\nin the purchase of corks, which must be of the\nbest and soundest description. It has been\nfound to be very false economy to use inferior\nkinds. The wine being drawn into bottles to a\nheight of 2 or 3 inches from the top of the\nneck, the bottles have next to be corked, the\ncork being secured in the bottle by a small iron\nband, called an agrafe. All these operations\nhave to be performed deftly and rapidly by ex-\nperienced workmen. With what speed they are\naccomplished may be imagined from the fact\nthat an atelier of five workmen, who divide\nthe labor, will bottle and cork from twelve to\nfifteen hundred bottles daily, two bottles pass-\ning through all hands in one minute. The cork-\ning, etc., finished, the bottles are next placed\non their sides, and stacked in cellars or caves,\neach stack being supported by thin laths.\nAs the summer approaches, the wine begins\nto show signs of fermentation, which increases\nwith the hot weather. When the fermentation\nreaches such a stage as to cause the wine to oc-\ncupy the previously unfilled space in the neck\nof the bottle, a large number of bottles begin\nto burst, as well as to leak and in some years\nas much as 30$ of the wine is lost from these\ncauses, Two courses, each of which requires to\nbe promptly adopted, are open to the wine\nmaker under these circumstances. Either he\nmust remove the wine to a cooler cellar, or un-\ncork the bottles. Sometimes, if the breakage,\nor casse, as it is termed, has not exceeded 1% or\n8% by the time August is reached, he takes the\nchance of further loss, and lets the wine re-\nmain, for with the fall in temperature, which\nusually occurs in September and October, the\nenergetic action of the wine ceases, and the\nbreakage also.\nThe leaky and broken bottles are then re-\nmoved from the sound ones, which are re-\nstacked and left until a yeasty substance has\ndiscontinued depositing upon their lower sides.\nThe bottles are kept in this condition until re-\nquired for sale. Before, however, they are in\na fit state for the purchaser, the yeasty matter\nhas to be removed, and the wine to be liqueured.\nThe yeast is got rid of as follows: The bottles\nare placed necks downward, on perforated\nshelves arranged in rows. A workman then\nseizes a bottle, and holding it in the inverted\nposition, by a dexterous movement discharges\nthe yeast from the side and brings it down upon\nthe cork. This operation, which extends over\nsome weeks, has to be repeated from time to\ntime, until the supernatant wine is quite clear.\nThe bottles are then very cautiously removed\nfrom the cellars to the corking and tying down\nrooms, when they come into the hands of a\nworkman called a disgorger. The disgorger,\nholding the bottle still neck downward, pro-\nceeds to liberate the cork, by slipping off the\nagrafe, and when the cork is three parts out he\nquickly inverts the bottle. The cork is then\nforcibly ejected with a loud report by the\nfroth, which carries with it the greater part of\nthe yeast and other solid matters, what remains\nof these being got rid of by the workman work-\ning his finger round the neck of the bottle,\nwhereby they are detached, and forced out by\nthe still rising froth. The workman then\nplaces his thumb over the mouth of the bot-\ntle, which is afterward temporarily closed with\nan old cork.\nThe liqueur, which is next to be added, is of\nvery varied composition, as almost every cham-\npagne maker has his favorite and special pre-\nparation.\nThe best liqueurs are made of some choice\nwine, mixed with the purest cane sugar. The\ninferior kinds consist of a mixture of 90%\nalcohol, sugar and some flavoring material. A\ncertain measured quantity of the liqueur is\nadded to each bottle of wine. The bottle is then\ncorked, wired, tied down and washed, and the\ncork covered with tin foil and labeled. It is\nthen ready for sale and export. It sometimes\nhappens that after the previous round of oper-\nations has been gone through, the champagne\nbecomes turbid, and a minor second fermenta-\ntion sets in. In this case, it is made to undergo\na repetition of the processes already described.\nIt is a desideratum with every champagne\nmaker that when the bottle is opened for its\ncontents to be drunk, the removal of the cork\nshould be accompanied with a full, deep, and\ndistinct report. When, instead of this, the\nreport is short and sharp, and resembles a pop-\nping noise, this is owing to the space between\nthe liquid and the cork, filled with the gas, be-\ning too small. When the gas escapes with a\nhissing noise, it is because the cork fits the neck\nof the bottle unequally, or has not been driven\nin in a perfectly straight direction. The good\nname of any maker would be seriously dam-\naged were he to send out champagne liable to\ncomport itself in this manner. He therefore\nspares no expense in providing himself with\nthe very best and soundest corks. The best\nway to prevent the escape of the gas from the\nbottle is always to keep the bottles lying on\ntheir sides.\nAll effervescing wines are manufactured in a\nsimilar manner to champagne.\nSince the alcohol in the wine is derived from\nthe sugar contained in the must, it would seem\nthat the sweetest and ripest grapes should yield\nthe strongest product. When the decomposi-\ntion of the sugar has been complete, this will\nbe the result; but it frequently nappens that,\nowing to an insufficiency in the must of the\nprotein compounds which nourish the yeast\ncells (the torula cerevisiaz), by the agency of\nwhich the fermentation is accomplished, the\nwhole of the sugar is not converted into\nalcohol, in which case a sweet wine will be pro-\nduced; or the sweetness may be due to the al-\ncohol formed stopping the fermentation before\nall the sugar had been decomposed, or to an ex-\ncess of glycerin. If on the other hand, the\ngrape iuice is rich in albuminous matter, but\npoor in sugar, the consequent wine will be what","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0631.jp2"},"624":{"fulltext":"Wines.\n612\nWines.\nTable Showing the Quantity of Alcohol in Wine.\nNames, etc.\nf Weakest\n-r, n J Mean of 7 samples\nort 1 Strongest\nWhite\nWeakest\nMean of 13 wines, excluding those very long\nkept in cask\nSherry -J Strongest\n[Mean of 9 wines long kept in cask in the)\nI East Indies j\nI Madre da Xeres\nMo/ OT J Long kept in cask in the East Strongest\nMaaena -j Indies [Weakest\nTeneriffe (long in cask at Calcutta)\nCercial\nLisbon (dry)\nShiraz\nAmontillado\nClaret (a first growth of 1811)\nChateau-Latour (a first growth of 1825)\nRosan (second growth of 1825)\nOrdinary Claret (Vin Ordinaire)\nRivesaltes\nMalmsley\nRiidesheimer, first quality\nRiidesheimer, inferior\nHambacher, superior quality\nAlcohol of\n0*7937 per\ncent, by\nweight.\nProof spirit\nper cent.\nby volume.\n14-97\n31-31\n16-20\n34*91\n17-10\n37-27\n14 97\n31-31\n13-98\n30-84\n15-37\n33-59\n16.17\n35-12\n14-72\n31-30\n16-90\n37-06\n16-90\n37-06\n14-09\n30-86\n13-84\n30-21\n15-45\n33-65\n16-14\n34-71\n12-95\n28-30\n12-63\n27-60\n7-72\n16-95\n7-78\n17 06\n7-61\n16-74\n8-99\n18-96\n9-31\n22-35\n12-86\n28-17\n8-40\n18-44\n6-90\n15-19\n7.35\n16-15\nis termed a dry one. Such are the red wines of\nFrance and the Rhine.\nAccording to Wagner, red French wines con-\ntain 9 to 14* by volume of alcohol. Burgundy,\n9, 10, and 11*. Bordeaux, 10, 11, and 12*. Other\nFrench wines contain 8 to 10*; the wines of the\nPalatinate, 7 to 9 5*; Hungarian wines, 9 to 11*.\nChampagne contains 9 to 12*; Xeres, 17*; Ma-\ndeira, 17 to 23*7*\nIn addition to ethylic alcohol and water,\nwhich, as shown in the previous table, vary\nlargely in the proportions in which they are\npresent in different kinds of wine, most wines\ncontain the following substances: Propylic,\nbutylic, caprylic and caproic alcohols; acetic and\ncenanthic ether; grape sugar(dextrose and lev-\nulose); glycerin; gums; pectin; coloring and\nfatty substances; protein bodies; carbonic acid,\nordinary and levo-tartaric and racemic acids;\ncitric acid; malic acid; tannic acid; acetic acid;\nlactiG- acid; succinic acid; organic and inorganic\nsalts.\nOf these, the propylic and butylic, caprylic,\nand caproic alcohols, the ethers, the glycerin,\nthe carbonic, acetic, lactic, and succinic acids\nare produced during fermentation, the remain-\ning substances being original constituents of\nthe grape juice, which also contains bi tartrate\nof potash; but this being insoluble in weak\nspirit, is thrown down or deposited as the con-\nversion of sugar into alcohol proceeds. In its\ncrude condition, it is known as argol, and is\nthe source of cream of tartar and tartaric\nacid. As a result of its formation in the grape\na considerable amount of free acid is removed\nfrom the fruit. This is why wine made from\ngrapes is so much superior, and keeps so much\nbetter than that manufactured from fruits\nthat abound instead in citric and malic acids.\nThese latter require the addition of large quan-\ntities of sugar to disguise their acidity, a pro-\nceeding which frequently gives rise in them to\na second fermentation, and often to the conse-\nquent formation of acetic apid. The acetic\nether in wine is produced by the mutual reac-\ntion of acetic acid and ethyUc alcohol. Neu-\nbauer, dissenting from Dupre and Thudichum,\nsays the cenanthic ether is the constituent to\nwhich wines owe their bouquet. He regards\n—Dr. Christison.\nthis ether as a combination of various sub-\nstances of which caprylic and caproic acid\nethers are the most important. Their forma-\ntion is believed to take place partly during and\npartly after fermentation. The rest of the\nnon-volatile constituents, such as the sugar,\nthe gum, the protein bodies, coloring matter,\ninorganic salts, etc., which remain behind when,\na wine is evaporated to dryness, constitute,\nwith a certain quantity of substance the com-\nposition of which has not been denned, the\nextractive matter.\nThe amount of extractive matter in wines\nvaries as greatly as from 1* to 20*. This differ-\nence occurs even in wines of a similar char-\nacter, and from the same district. Thus in\nRhine wines it ranges from 10*6* to 4 2*, in the\nPalatinate wines, from 10 7* to 1 9*, in Bo-\nhemian wines, the mean is 2*26*, in the wines of\nAustria, 2*64*, and in those of Hungary, 2*62*.\nIt is highest in sweet wines. In many adul-\nterated wines, as the extractive matter is either\nvery small or sometimes altogether absent, it\nhas been proposed to employ the estimation of\nits amount in a wine as a test of its genuine-\nness or the reverse.\nLight wines owe their color, varying from\npale yellow to brown, possibly to oxidized ex-\ntractive matter, or to the cask. The color of\nred wine is due to the action of its free tartaric\nacid on a blue substance residing in the skin of\nthe grape. This body, which is known to wine\nmakers as wine blue, and which bears a\ngreat resemblance to litmus, in turning red\nwhen acted upon by acids, was named cenocyan\nor osnocyamin, by Mulder or Maumene. It is\ninsoluble in water, alcohol, ether, olive oil, and\noil of turpentine, but is dissolved by alcohol\ncontaining small quantities of tartaric or\nacetic acid. Glycerin was found to be a nor-\nmal constituent of wine by Pasteur in 1859.\nAs the wine matures, the glycerin disappears.\nIn Austrian wines, Pohl found 2 6* of glycerin.\nIn some wines it reaches 3*, but in most it sel-\ndom exceeds 1*. In old wines it exists only in\nvery small quantity. Faure states that another\nnormal constituent of wine is a gum, to which\nis given the name cenanthin.\nThe ash of wine, as might be expected, con-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0632.jp2"},"625":{"fulltext":"Wines.\n613\nWines.\ntains the same fixed constituents as that of the\ngrape juice, and in both the potash and phos-\nphoric acid largely predominate.\nAs the excellence and character of a wine\ndepend, in addition to its peculiar bouquet,\nupon the relative proportions of alcohol, free\nacid, and water, and as these are approximately\nconstant in all wines of good quality, it is\nessential that the grape juice should not only\ncontain such an amount of sugar as when fer-\nmented will yield the requisite quantity of\nalcohol (but since the goodness of the wine is\ninversely as its content of free acid), that the\nlatter should not exceed a certain limit. The\ntaste of a wine, however, is frequently a falla-\ncious test as to the quantity of free acid in it.\nOf two wines, one containing more free acid\nthan the other, the latter may be less sour to\nthe palate, provided it contains a larger propor-\ntion of sugar, glycerin, or alcohol than the\nformer.\nApart from the consideration, whether the\nacid of the grape eventually becomes trans-\nformed into sugar or not, the fact remains\nthat in sunless and wet years, when the fruit\nhas not sufficiently ripened, there is a defi-\nciency of sugar, and an access of acid. Frese-\nnius states that the proportions are in\nGrapes grown in a very inferior year as 1 part\nof acid to 12 parts of sugar. Grapes grown in\na better year as 1 part of acid to 16 parts of\nsugar. Grapes grown in a good year as 1 part\nof acid to 24 parts of sugar.\nAccording to the same authority, when the\nproportion reaches 1 part of acid to 10 parts of\nsugar the grape is unsuited for making wine.\nTo get over the difficulty of dealing with a\nmust that contains too low a proportion of\nsugar and too high a one of acid, two methods\nare adopted by the wine maker. The first,\nwhich was proposed by Chaptal, in an essay on\nthe cultivation of the grape, published so long\nago as 1800, consists in adding raw sugar to the\nmust, in quantity sufficient to yield the amount\nof alcohol in which the wine would be other-\nwise deficient. Chaptal calculated that 2 parts\nof sugar would give 1 part of alcohol. If, there-\nfore, the grape juice should be found upon\nanalysis capable of producing a wine with only\n8% of aldohol, instead of its normal amount,\nsay, -of 16% after fermentation for every 100\nparts of wine to be manufactured, 16 parts of\nsugar would have to be added. When the\namount of free acid in the must exceeds 6\nparts in 1,000, powdered marble is added, in the\nproportion of 50 parts of marble for every 60\nparts of acid in excess. This method is inap-\nplicable if the acid exists as acetic.\nBy Gall s method, when the free acid in the\nmust exceeds 0*6$, the juice is diluted with\nwater to that strength. In this case the per-\ncentage of sugar will also have been reduced.\nGall believed a normal must should have the\nfollowing composition\nSugar 24-0$\nFree acid 0 Q%\nWater 75*4$\nOne hundred parts by weight of such a must\nwould therefore contain 24 parts of sugar, 0*6\npart of free acid, and 75 4 parts of water. If\nby examination a sample of grape juice\nshould be found to contain, say, 16*7$ of sugar\nand 0 8$ of free acid, to bring it up to Gall s\nstandard, it would be necessary to add to every\n1,000 lb. of such juice 153 lb. sugar and 180 lb.\nof water.\nGrape sugar made from starch and dilute\nsulphuric acid is usually employed for this\npurpose, but such sugar has the objection of\ncontaining large quantities of dextrin, the\npresence of which injures the keeping power\nof the resulting wine. The wine produced by\nGall s plan is said to be very pleasant, and not\ndevoid of natural bouquet. Sometimes the wine\nmaker adds a flavoring material to it. The pro-\ncess seems best adapted for those musts which\nare poor in sugar, but contain an excess of free\nacid. The removal of this may also be satis-\nfactorily accomplished by the use of neutral\ntartrate of potash. Among other methods\npracticed for increasing the alcoholic content\nof wine, is that of submitting it to a tempera-\nture at or below freezing, whereby a consider-\nable quantity of its water becomes congealed,\nand may be separated along with some tartar,\nand coloring and albuminous matters, which\nare precipitated by the cold. Owing to the re-\nmoval of these last from the wine, it is not so\nliable to undergo a second; fermentation, while\nthe abstraction of part of its water, of course,\nmakes it richer in alcohol.\nGypsum is also frequently added to wines for\nthe purpose of withdrawing some of their wa-\nter, and therefore of increasing their strength.\nThis it does, but only to a trifling extent. At\nthe same time, it should be remembered that\nits addition to wine gives rise to the formation\nof soluble sulphate of potash, a bitter and ac-\ntive purgative, and wholly or partly removes\nthe tartaric acid and the phosphates. Dupre\nand Thudichum have shown by experiment\nthat this practice of plastering, as it is called,\nalso reduces the yield of the liquid, as a con-\nsiderable part of the wine mechanically com-\nbines with the gypsum and is lost.\nAnother reprehensible practice is the addi-\ntion to the wine of brandy or of alcohol.\nGeneral Formulce for the Preparation of Imi-\ntation Wines.— 1. From ripe saccharine fruits.\nTake of the fruit, 4 to 6 lb.; clear soft water, 1\ngal.; sugar, 3 to 5 lb.; cream of tartar (dissolved\nin boiling water), 1*4 oz.; brandy, 2 to S%; flavor-\ning as required. If the full proportions of fruit\nand sugar are used, the product will be good\nwithout the brandy, but better with it. 1% lb.\nraisins may be substituted for each pound of\nsugar.\nIn the above manner are made the following\nwines: Gooseberry wine, currant wine (red,\nwhite, or black), mixed fruit wine (currants and\ngooseberries, or black, red, and white currants;\nripe black heart cherries and raspberries (equal\nparts), a good family wine; cherry wine, cole-\npress s wine (from apples and mulberries, equal\nparts), elder wine, strawberry wine, raspberry\nwine, mulberry wine, whortleberry or bilberry\nwine; blackberry wine, damson wine, morella\nwine, apricot wine, apple wine, grape wine, etc.\n2. From dry saccharine fruit (such as raisins).\n—Take of the dried fruit, 4^ to 7^ lb.; clear\nsoft water, 1 gal.; cream of tartar (dissolved), 1\noz.; brandy, iy z to 1%. Should the dried fruit\nemployed be at all deficient in saccharine mat-\nter, 2 to 3 lb. of it may be omitted, and half\nthat quantity of sugar or two- thirds of raisins\nadded. In the above manner are made date\nwine, fig win, raisin wine, etc.\n3. From acidulous, astringent, or scarcely\nripe fruits, or those which are deficient in sac-\ncharine matter.— Take of the picked fruit, 2^\nto sy 2 lb.; sugar, 8)4 to 5^ lb.; cream of tartar\n(dissolved), J^ oz.; water, 1 gal.; brandy, 2 to 6%.\nIn the above manner are made gooseberry\nWine, bullace wine, damson wine.\n4. From footstalks, leaves, cuttings, etc.—\nBy infusing them in water, in the proportion\nof 3 to 6 lb. to the gal., or q. s. to give a proper\nflavor, or to form a good saccharine liquid; and\nadding 2% to 4 lb. of sugar to each gal. of\nstrained liquor. One and a half lb, of raisins\nmay be substituted for each lb. of sugar.\nIn the above manner are made grape wine\n(from the pressed cake of grapes), English\ngrape wine, rhubarb wine (from garden rhu-\nbarb), celery wine, etc.\n5. From saccharine roots and stems of\nplants.— Take of the bruised, rasped, or sliced\nvegetable, 4 to 6 lb.; boiling water, 1 gal.; in-\nfuse until cold, press out the liquid, and to each\ngal. add of sugar 3 to 4 lb.; cream of tartar, 1\noz.; brandy, 2 to 5#. For some roots and stems\nthe water must not be very hot, as they are\nthus rendered troublesome to press.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0633.jp2"},"626":{"fulltext":"Wines.\n614\nWines.\nIn the above manner are made beet-root\nwine, parsnip wine, turnip wine, etc.\n6. From flowers, spices, aromatics, etc.—\nThese are prepared by infusing a sufficient\nquantity of the bruised ingredient for a few\ndays in any simple wine (as that from sugar,\nhoney, raisins, etc.), after the active fermenta-\ntion is complete, or, at all events, a few weeks\nbefore racking them.\nIn the above manner are made clary wine (mus-\ncatel) (from flowers, 1 qt. to the gal.); cowslip\nwine (from flowers, 2 qt. to the gal.); elder flow-\ner wine (flowers of white berried elder, pt.,\nand lemon juice, 3 fl. oz. to the gal.); ginger\nwine (1J4 oz. ginger to the gal.); orange wine\n(1 dozen sliced oranges per gal.); lemon wine\n(juice of 12 and rinds of 6 lemons to the gal.);\nspruce wine (34 oz. of essence of spruce per\ngal.); juniper wine (berries, pt. per gal.);\npeach wine (4 or 5 sliced, and the stones broken,\nto the gal.); apricot wine (as peach wine, but\nwith more fruit); quince wine (12 to the gal.);\nrose clove gillyflower, carnation, lavender,\nviolet, primrose, and other flower wines (dis-\ntilled water from the flowers, 1% pt., or floAvers\n1 pt. to the gal.); mixed fruit wine; pine apple\nwine; cider wine; elder wine; birch wine (from\nthe sap, at the end of February or beginning of\nMarch); sycamore wine (from the sap); malt\nwine (from strong wort); and the wines of any\nof the saccharine juices of ripe fruit.\n7. From saccharine matter.— Take of sugar,\n3 to 4 lb.; cream of tartar, y* oz.; water, 1 gal.;\nhoney, 1 lb.; brandy, 2 to 4 per cent. A hand-\nful of grape leaves or cuttings, bruised, or 1 pt.\nof good malt wort, or mild ale, may be substi-\ntuted for the honey. Chiefly used as the basis\nfor other wines, as it has little flavor of its\nown.\nIn all the preceding formulae lump sugar is\nintended when the wines are required very\npale, and good Muscovado sugar when this is\nnot the case. Some of the preceding wines are\nimproved by substituting good cider, perry, or\npale ale or malt wort, for the whole or a por-\ntion of the water. Good porter may also be\nadvantageously used in this way for some of the\ndeep colored red wines. When expense is no\nobject, and very strong wines are wanted, the\nexpressed juices of the ripe fruits, with the\naddition of 3 or 4 lb. of sugar per gal., may be\nsubstituted for the fruit in substance, and the\nwater.\nManagement of Wine. The remarks ar-\nranged under this heading are more particu-\nlarly intended for the use of the dealer, the\npublican, and the private individual as those\nwhich precede it are for the wine maker;\nmatters common to each class will, however,\nbe f oxlnd in both sections of the present article.\nAge. The sparkling wines are in their prime\nin from eighteen to thirty months after the\nvintage. Thin wines, of inferior growths,\nshould be drank within twelve or fifteen\nmonths, and be preserved in a very cool cellar.\nSound, well fermented, full bodied still wines\nare improved by „ge, with reasonable limits,\nprovided they be well preserved from the air,\nand stored in a cool place having a pretty uni-\nform temperature.\nBottling.— The secret of bottling wine with\nsuccess consists in the exercise of care and\ncleanliness. The bottles should be sound, clean\nand dry, and free from the least mustiness or\nother odor. The corks should be of the best\nquality, and immediately before being placed\nin the bottles should be compressed by means\nz f a cork squeezer, or of one of the numerous\nmachines made for this purpose. For superior\nor very delicate wines, the corks are sometimes\nprepared by placing them in a copper or tub,\ncovering them with weights to keep them\ndown, and then pouring over them boiling\nwater holding a little pearlash in solution. In\nthis liquid they are allowed to remain for\ntwenty -four hours, when they are well stirred\nabout in the liquid, drained and reimmersed\nfor a second twenty-four hours in hot water,\nafter which they are well washed and soaked in\nseveral successive portions of clean and warm\nrain water, drained, dried out of contact with\ndust, put into paper bags, and hung up in a\ndry place for use. Many wine merchants, how-\never, disapprove of this course, and merely dip\nthe corks in clean cold water before inserting\nthem in the bottles. The wine should be clear\nand brilliant, and if it be not so, it must un-\ndergo the process of fining before being bottled.\nThe bottles, corks and wine, being ready, a fine\nclear day should be preferably chosen for the\nbottling, and the utmost cleanliness and care\nshould be exercised during the process. Great\ncaution should also be observed to avoid shak-\ning the cask, so as not to disturb the bottoms.\nThe remaining portion that cannot be drawn\noff clear should be passed through the wine bag,,\nand, when bottled, should be set apart as in-\nferior to the rest; or the lees are collected in a\ncask kept for the purpose, and the clear wine\nresulting from their subsidence is used for fill-\ning up casks about to be fined. The coopers,\nto prevent breakage and loss, place each bot-\ntle, before corking it, in a small bucket or boot\nhaving a bottom made of soft cork or leather,\nwhich is strapped on the knee of the bottler.\nThe bottlers seldom break a bottle, though they\nflog in the corks very hard. The bucket or\nboot is now very largely supplanted by Ger-\nvaise s corking machine, an apparatus which\nfirst submits the cork to great pressure, and\nthen immediately afterward drives it firmly\ninto the neck of the bottle, in which, owing to\nits subsequent expansion, it fits very closely\nand perfectly. When the process of bottling\nis complete, the bottles of wine are stored in a\ncool cellar on their sides, but on no account in\nan upright position. Sometimes they are\nplaced in damp straw, or in sweet, dry saw-\ndust or sand.\nAlcoholizing.— Alcohol is frequently added to\nweak or vapid wines, to increase their strength\nor to promote their preservation. In Portugal,\nof alcohol is commonly added to port before\nshipping it for England, as without this addi-\ntion it generally passes into the acetous fer-\nmentation during the voyage. A little alcohol\nis also usually added to sherry before it leaves\nSpain. The addition of alcohol to wine injures\nits proper flavor, and hence it is chiefly made\nto port, sherry, and other wines, whose flavor\nis so strong as not to be easily injured. Even\nwhen alcohol is added to wines of the latter\ndescription, they require to be kept for some\ntime to recover their natural flavor.\nCellaring.— A wine cellar should be dry at\nbottom, and either covered with good hard\ngravel or be paved with flags. Its gratings or\nwindows should open toward the north, and it\nshould be sunk sufficiently below the surface\nto insure an equable temperature. It should\nalso be sufficiently removed from any public\nthroughfare so as not to suffer vibration from\nthe passing of carriages. Should it not be in a\nposition to maintain a regular temperature,\narrangements should be made to apply artificial\nheat in winter and proper ventilation in sum-\nmer. The temperature should range from 55°\nto 65° F. For Burgundies the former tempera-\nture is the more suitable; for ports, sherries\nand strong wines, the latter temperature.\nDecanting.— In decanting wine, care must be\ntaken not to shake or disturb the crust when\nmoving it about or drawing. the cork, particu-\nlarly of port wine. Never decant wine without\na wine strainer, with some clean fine cambric\nin it, to prevent the crust and bits of cork go-\ning into the decanter. In decantiug port wine,\ndo not drain it too close; as there are generally\ntwo thirds of a wineglassful of thick dregs in\neach bottle, which ought to be rejected. In\nwhite wine there is not much deposit; but it\nshould nevertheless be poured off very slowly,\nthe bottle being raised gradually.\nDetartarization.— Rhenish wines, even of the","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0634.jp2"},"627":{"fulltext":"Wines,\n615\nWines.\nbest growths, and in the finest condition, be-\nsides their tartar, contain a certain quantity of\nfree tartaric acid, on the presence of which\nmany of their distinctive properties depend.\nThe excess of tartar is gradually deposited dur-\ning the first years of the vatting, the sides of\nthe vessels becoming more and more encrusted\nwith it; but, owing to the continual addition of\nnew wine and other causes, the liquid often\ngains such an excess of free tartaric acid as to\nacquire the faculty of redissolving the de-\nposited tartar, which thus again dissappears\nafter a certain period. The taste and flavor of\nthe wine are thus exalted, but the excess of\nacid makes the wine less agreeable, and prob-\nably less wholesome.\nUnder these circumstances the best correc-\ntive is pure neutral tartrate of potash. When\nthis salt, in concentrated solution, is added to\nan acid wine, the free acid combines with the\nneutral salt, and separates from the liquid\nunder the form of the sparingly soluble bitar-\ntrate of potash. If to 100 parts of a wine which\ncontains 1 part of free tartaric acid we add V/%\nparts of neutral tartrate of potash,there will sep-\narate on repose at 70° to 75° F., 2 parts of crys-\ntallized tartar; and the wine will then contain\nonly part of tartar dissolved, in which there\nare only 0*2 part of the original free acid; 0*8\npart of the original free acid having been with-\ndrawn from the wine. This method is particu-\nlarly applicable to recent must and to wines\nwhich contain little, if any, free acetic acid;\nwhen this last is present, so much acetate of\npotash is formed as occasionally to vitiate the\ntaste of the liquid.\nFining.— Wine is clarified in a similar man-\nner to beer. White wines are usually fined by\nisinglass. The quantity of isinglass varies with\nthe quality and condition of the wine, and is\nregulated by the experience of the cellarman.\nStout wines require a larger amount than thin\nones. Even with stout ones it ought not to ex-\nceed }4 oz. to the hogshead. The Rhenish wines\ndo not require more than y± oz., and the hocks\nstill less. The choicest. Russian isinglass only\nshould be employed. Tt should be dissolved in\ncold w,ater, and thinned with wine. Red wines\nare generally fined with the whites of eggs, in\nthe proportion of 15 to 20 to the pipe. Some-\ntimes, but rarely, hartshorn shavings, or pale\nsweet glue, is substituted for isinglass.\nFlatness.— This is removed by the addition of\na little new brisk wine of the same kind; or by\nrousing in 2 or 3 lb. of honey; or by adding 5 or\n6 lb. of bruised sultana raisins and 3 or 4 qt. of\ngood brandy, per hogshead. By this treatment\nthe wine will usually be recovered in about a\nfortnight, except in very cold weather. The\nprocess may be expedited, if a tablespoonful or\ntwo of yeast be added, and the cask removed\nto a warmer situation.\nInsipidity. See Flatness.\nMaturation. The natural maturation or\nripening of wine and beer by age depends\nupon the slow conversion of the sugar which\nescaped decomposition in the gyle tun or fer-\nmenting vessel into alconol. This conversion\nproceeds most perfectly in vessels which en-\ntirely exclude the air, as in the case of wine in\nbottles; as when air is present, and the temper-\nature sufficiently high, it is accompanied by\nslow acetification. This is the case with wine in\ncasks, the porosity of the wood allowing the\nvery gradual permeation of the air. Hence the\nsuperiority of bottled over draught wine or\nthat which has matured in wood. Good wine,\nor well fermented beer, is vastly improved by\nage when properly preserved; but inferior\nliquor, or even superior liquor, when pre-\nserved in improper vessels or situations, be-\ncomes acidulous from the conversion of its al-\ncohol into vinegar. Tartness or acidity is con-\nsequently very generally, though wrongly, re-\ngarded by the ignorant as a sign of age in\nliquor. The peculiar change by which fer-\nmented liquors become mature or ripe by age\nis termed the insensible fermentation. It is the\nalcoholic fermentation impeded by the presence\nof the already formed spirit in the liquor, and\nby the lowness of the temperature.\nMould or fungus is very frequently produced\nby keeping the wine in too warm a cellar, or\nin a cask not filled to the bung hole, or else\nin one from which the bung has been left\nout. As it forms mostly on weak wines, its.\npresence may be referred to a deficiency of\nalcohol.\nThe best method for its removal is either\nburning sulphur in a partially filled cask, or\ndrawing off the wine into a fresh cask, in which\nsulphur has been previously burnt. It is ad-\nvisable that wines so treated should be drunk\nas soon as possible.\nWine sometimes has an unpleasant musty\ntaste, which it has acquired from being put\ninto a dirty cask, or into one that has been un-\nused for some time. This bad flavor, which is\nknown as caskiness, may generally be removed\nby vigorously agitating the wine for some time\nwith a little sweet, olive, or almond oil. The\ncause of the bad taste is the presence of an\nessential oil, which the fixed oil combines with\nand carries to the surface, whence it may be\nskimmed off, or the wine lying under it may\nbe drawn off. A little coarsely powdered and\nfreshly burnt charcoal, or some slices of bread\ntoasted until they become black, or a little\nbruised mustard seed, sometimes effects the re-\nmoval of the objectionable taste.\nRipening.— To promote the maturation or\nripening of wine, various plans are adopted by\nthe growers and dealers. One of the safest\nways of hastening this, especially for strong\nwines, is not to rack them until they have stood\n15 or 18 months upon the lees or, whether\ncrude or racked, keeping them at a tempera-\nture ranging between 55° and 65° F., in a cellar\nfree from draughts and not too dry. Full or\nheavy sherries or ports, when bottled and\ntreated in this manner, ripen very quickly in a\ntemperate situation.\nRacking.— Racking should be performed in\ncool weather, and preferably early in the\nspring. A clean siphon, well managed, answers\nbetter for this purpose than a cock or faucet.\nThe bottoms, or thick portion, may be strained\nthrough a wine bag, and added to some other\ninferior wine.\nRopiness, Viscidity; Graisse. This arises\nfrom the wine containing too little tannin or\nastringent matter to precipitate the gluten, al-\nbumen, or other azotized substance, occasion-\ning the malady. Such wine cannot be clarified\nin the ordinary way, because it is incapable of\ncausing the coagulation or precipitation of the\nfinings. The remedy is to supply the principle\nin which it is deficient. M. Frangois, of Nantes,\nprescribes for this purpose the bruised berries\nof the mountain ash in the proportion of 1 lb.\nto the barrel. A little catechu, kino, or, better\nstill, rhatany, or the bruised footstalks of the\ngrape, may also be conveniently and advanta-\ngeously used in the same way. For pale white\nwines, which are the ones chiefly attacked by\nthe malady, nothing equals a little pure tannin,\nor tannic acid dissolved in proof spirit.\nSecond Fermentation; La-pousse. Inordin-\nate fermentation, either primary or secondary.\nin wine or any other fermented liquid, may be\nreadily checked by sulphuration, or by the ad-\ndition of sulphur, mustard seed, or sulphite of\nlime. The latter must, however, be used with\ndiscretion.\nSparkling, Creaming and Briskness.— These\nproperties are conveyed to wine by racking it\ninto closed vessels before the fermentation is\ncomplete, and while there still remains a consid-\nerable portion of undecomposcd sugar. Wine\nwhich has lost its briskness may be restored by\nadding to each bottle a few grains of white\nlump sugar or sugar candy. The bottles are\nafterward inverted, by which means any sedi-\nment that forms falls into the necks, when the","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0635.jp2"},"628":{"fulltext":"Wines.\n616\nWines.\ncorks are partially withdrawn,and the sediment\nis immediately expelled by the elastic force of\nthe compressed carbonic acid. If the wine re-\nmains muddy, a little solution of sugar and\nfining-s are added, and the bottles are again\nplaced in a vertical position, and, after two or\nthree months, the sediment is discharged as\nbeofre.\nAges of Different Wines when at Their Prime.\nSee also the Management of Wine above.— The\nage named below for each wine will be found\nto be that at which it possesses its fullest flavor\nand when it will be best to drink it.\nPort 20 years.\nMadeira 10 years.\nSherry 10 years.\nRed Madeira 6 years.\nMadeira-malmsey 5 years.\nCallavella. 4 years.\nMalaga 3 years.\nMuscatel 3 years.\nRed hermitage 20 years.\nWhite hermitage 20 years.\nRoussillon 20 years.\nRivesaltes 20 years.\nBanyuls 20 years.\nOollioure 15 years.\nSalces 10 years.\nLa Palme 10 years.\nSigean 8 years.\nCarcassone 8 years.\nBeziers 8 years.\nLunel 8 years.\nChampagne 6 years.\nMontpellier 5 years.\nFrontignan 5 years.\nAcid Taste of Wines, to Remove.— Neutralize\nthe excess of acid by powdered chalk.\nAlcoholizing Wine. See Management of Wine,\np. 614.\nApple Wine.—l. Finest cider, 60 gal.; brown\nsugar, }4 cwt.; bitter almonds, 14 oz. Mix the\ncider and sugar, and ferment; then rack the\nmixture, and put into the cask the almonds,\nwith 16 or 18 cloves, and 3 or 4 pieces of bruised\nginger. When fine, bottle it and keep it in a\ncool place. The addition of a small piece of\nlump sugar to each bottle will make the cork\nfly out, as from champagne; but do not add\nthis unless you have a very cold cellar to keep\nit in.\n2. Forty lb. sugar, 15 gal. cider. The cider\nmust be pure and made only from really ripe,\nsound apples this is important). If the wine\nis to be quite sweet, add another 10 lb. of sugar,\nand put all into the cider, letting it stand till\ndissolved. Put the liquor into a cask but leave\nit unfilled to the extent of 2 gal. Put the cask\ninto a cool position, with the bung out for for-\nty-eight hours. After this bung it up, but let\nthere be a small vent somewhere— in the bung\nwould do— until the fermentation is over. Then\nbung up securely, and the wine will be ready\nfor consumption in twelve months. There is\nno racking required in the manufacture of this\nwine. To remain in the cask twelve months.\nMake this in January or February.\nApricot Wine.— Twelve lb. ripe apricots, 6 oz.\nloaf sugar to each qt. liquor. Wipe the apri-\ncots, cut them in pieces and let them boil in 2\ngal. water. After boiling, let them simmer till\nthe liquor is strongly impregnated with the\nflavor of the fruit. Strain through a hair sieve,\nand put 6 oz. lump sugar to every qt. liquor.\nBoil again, skim very carefully, and as soon\nas no more scum appears, put it into an earthen\npan. Bottle next day if it is quite clear, and\nput 1 lump of sugar into each bottle. It should\nwe fine wine in six months. Two hours to boil.\nMake this in August or September.\nBalm Wine.—l. Into 8 gal. of water put 20 lb.\nof moist sugar; boil for two hours, skimming\nthoroughly then pour into a tub to cool\nplace 2^ lb. of balm tops, bruised, into a barrel\nwith a little new yeast; when the liquor is cold\npour it on the balm; stir it well together, and\nlet it stand twenty-four hours, stirring it fre-\nquently then close it up tightly at first, and\nmore securely after fermentation has quite\nceased when it has stood two months, bottle\noff, putting a lump of sugar into each bottle;\ncork down well and keep in bottle at least a\nyear.\n2. Put a peck of balm leaves into an open\ntub; pour on them 4 gal. of boiling water;\ncover up the tub and let them infuse for twelve\nor fourteen hours strain the liquor at the end\nof that time through a hair sieve, and to every\ngallon add 2 lb. of good moist sugar, stirring\nwell for twenty minutes; take the whites of 4\neggs, whisk them over the fire in a saucepan;\nremove it from the fire as the scum rises, and\nskim the latter off; then add it to the liquor;\nboil the whole for three quarters of an hour,\nletting it work three or four days before you\ntun it; bung down, and when fine, bottle it off;\nin six or eight months it will be fit to drink.\nBilberry Wine.— The fruit should be picked\non a very dry day, when it is quite ripe. The\nleaves and stalks must be carefully removed\nfrom the berries and the fruit, then weighed.\nTo 4 gal. of fruit allow either 6 gal. of cold\nwater or else 3 gal. of water and 3 gal. of cider,\nand 10 lb. of good moist sugar; let all these in-\ngredients ferment in an open tub until work-\ning is over; then add y% gal. of brandy, a\nhandful of lavender and rosemary leaves\nmixed, 2 oz of powdered ginger, and 2 oz. of\npowdered tartar; let the liquor rest after this\naddition for forty-eight hours, then strain very\ncarefully through a hair sieve into a perfectly\nclean cask, laying the bung lightly on the bung\nhole until the working is quite over; and no\nhissing sound is heard; then close down quite\ntightly, and bottle off at the end of three\nmonths; keep six or eight months in bottle be-\nfore use.\nBlackberry Wine.—l. To 1 gal. of mashed\nblackberries add a quart of boiling water; let\nit stand for twenty-four hours, or nearly as\nlong, then strain through a coarse bag or\ntowel, adding 3 qt. of water and 2 lb. of brown\nsugar to each gallon of the mixture, making\nequal parts of water and juice; mix well, then\nput in demijohns, stone jugs or a tight, clean\nkeg; close partially and put in a cool place; if in\na warm place or left entirely open it will sour;\nif stopped entirely tight it will burst the vessel\n—but cork left loosely in; let it stand until fer-\nmentation ceases, which will be about October;\nthen bottle, and this makes excellent wine and\na fine medicinal drink for summer affections.\n2. The following is said to be an excellent\nreceipt for the manufacture of superior wine\nfrom blackberries: Measure your blackberries,\nand bruise them; to every gallon add 1 qt. of\nboiling water; let the mixture stand twenty-\nfour hours, stirring occasionally; then strain\noff the liquor into a cask; to every gallon add\n2 lb. of sugar; cork tight, and let stand about\none year, and you will have wine fit for use,\nwithout anj r further straining or boiling. This\nwine is very highly recommended for house-\nhold use.\nBottling of Wine. See Management of Wine,\non page 614.\nCatawba Champagne. Twenty gal. Cataw-\nba, 1 qt. Cognac brandy, and 2 gal. champagne\nsyrup.\nCellaring Wine. See Management of Wines,\npage 614. Also Laying Down Wines, below.\nChampagne, Imitation.—\n1. Prepared cider. 25 gal.\nCitric acid 5 drm.\nSimple syrup V/i pt.\nWater 1!4 gal.\nSpirits (10 under proof) 2^i gal.\nTartaric acid 134 oz.\nLet this stand twelve days, then fine and bot-\ntle, if it is frothing and sparkling; it not, add","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0636.jp2"},"629":{"fulltext":"Wines.\n617\nWines.\nmore acid; and fine again. Add to each bottle\nabout 2 teaspoonsful ol syrup, made by dis-\nsolving Yz lb. rock candy in 1 pt. white wine.\n2. Cider, pale, 1 hogshead; spirit, 3 gal.; honey\nor sugar, 20 lb. Mix and allow to remain two\nweeks; then fine with skimmed milk, gal.\nThis will be very pale.\n3. Cheap Champagne.—\nBordeaux 10 gal.\nBodenheimer or Hockheimer 10 gal.\nWater ..10 gal.\nFrench spirit 1 igal.\nSyrup 3 gal.\nMade of 18 lb. sugar and 6 qt. water.\n4. Champagne, Gooseberry. Ferment to-\ngether 5 gal. white gooseberries, mashed,\nwith 4J^ gal. water. Add 6 lb. sugar, 4V£ lb.\nhoney, 1 oz. finely powdered white tartar, 1\noz. dry orange and lemon peel, and }4 gal.\nwhite brandy. This will produce 9 gal. Before\nthe brandy is added, the mixture must be\nstrained and put into a cask.\n5. Champagne Liqueur.—\nFine loaf sugar 13 lb.\nWater Vy gal.\nBoil together. While boiling, add by degrees\n3 qt. alcohol, 90$, filter. Add to the following\ncompound\n6. Louis Roederer.— Mix the champagne liqueur\nwith 11J4 gal. white wine; V bottle cognac;\n6 drops sulphuric ether, dissolved in the cog-\nnac.\n7. Champagne, Syrup for.— Dissolve 12 lb.\nwhite sugar in 1 gal. water, and add the whites\nof 2 eggs. Heat until it candies. Strain through\nflannel.\nCherry Wine.— Take of cold soft water, 10 gal.;\ncherries, 10 gal.; ferment. Mix raw sugar, 30\nlb.; red tartar, in fine powder, 3 oz. add\nbrandy, 2 or 3 qt. This will make 18 gals. Two\ndays after the cherries have been in the vat, we\nshould take out about 3 qt. of the cherry stones,\nbreak-them and the kernels, and return them\ninto the vat again.\nBlack Cherry Wine.—2A lb. of small black cher-\nries, 2 lb. of sugar to each gal. of liquor.\nBruise the cherries, but leave the stones\nwhole, stir well, and let the mixtnre stand 24\nhours, then strain through a sieve, add the\nsugar, mix again, and stand another 24 hours.\nPom away the clear liquor into a cask, and\nwhen fermentation has ceased, bung it closely.\nBottle in 6 months 1 time. It will keep from 12\nto 18 months.\nTime.— To remain in the cask six months.\nMake this in July or August.\nClaret\n1. Prepared cider 30 gal.\nGood port wine 6 gal.\nWater V/ gal.\nTartar 1^ lb.\nSyrup 1J^ pt.\nCitric acid 234 drm.\nRaisins 3 lb.\nColor if desired with red sanders or red beet\njuice. Let it stand 10 to 12 days, rack.\n2. Good cider and port wine, equal parts.\n3. To each gallon of the last add cream of\ntartar (genuine) 3 drm., and the juice of one\nlemon.\n4. To either of the preceding add French\nbrandy, 2 oz.\n5. Instead of port, use red cape or British\nport.\nIf the first three of the above are well mixed\nand fined down, and not bottled for a month or\nfive weeks, they can scarcely be distinguished\nfrom good Boi deaux. A mixture of 4 parts of\nraisin wine with 1 part each of i-aspberry, and\nbarberry or damson wine, also forms an excel-\nlent factitious claret.\nCoca Wine. This is a French preparation. Its\nstrength is about 1 in 30, and the dose a wine-\nglassful. Coca wine is, roughly speaking, about\none-sixth of the strength of the official liquid\nextract (Extractum Cocce Liquidum B. P., or\nExtractum Erythroxyli Fluidum U. S.). To ob-\ntain the liquid extract,coca leaves are exhausted\nby percolation (which differs from either decoc-\ntion or infusion) with proof spirit. At the\ntermination of the process, the strength should\nbe adjusted so that 1 oz. 1 of leaves. The\nprocess of percolation is as follows The leaves\nare placed in a vessel very like an elongated\nfunnel, closed at its base by a porous diaphragm.\nThis funnel fits into a receiver, and a small tube\npasses up its outer side and enters it near the\ntop, forming a means of communication be-\ntween the two. Spirit is now poured on the\nleaves, and the percolator closed. As the\npercolate filters slowly through into the\nreservoir, the displaced air passes up the\ntube, and so maintains an equilibrium in both\nvessels. The virtue of the coca leaves lies\nprincipally in the presence of the alkaloid\ncocaine. This, in the dried leaves, is supposed\nto exist as an inert salt, similar to many of the\ncinchona alkaloids in bark.\nColoring Matters Used to Color Wine. Vari-\nous matters are largely employed to artificially\nheighten the colors of wines. The different\nspurious coloring matters can be detected by\nusing a solution of lead acetate, and the pre-\ncipitates formed give a good test by which the\nvarious colors can be determined.\n1. Mai va flowers or hollyhock produce, when\nsteeped in spirits for 24 hours, or even when\nboiled with water, a very beautiful purple.\n2. The pokeberry (the dark berries from the\nplant growing all over the United States) has\na very dark red color.\n3. Whortleberry, huckleberry, elderberry,\nblackberry and mulberry.\n4. Cochineal gives a fine red color by boiling\nfinely ground cochineal with cream of tartar.\n5. Brazil wood, sanders wood and logwood.\nThese woods are boiled in water, and the de-\ncoctions yield shades of color from red to blue.\n6. Orchil produces a beautiful purple.\n7. Red beets and carrots produce likewise a\ngood color.\n8. Indigo solution, neutralized by potash,\nproduces a fine blue.\n9. Annatto and extract of safnower produce\na beautiful yellow.\n10. Red cabbage produces a beautiful bluish\nred.\n11. Turmeric is the most common color for\nyellow, as the spirit extracts all color immedi-\nately; as also quercitron bark.\n12. Garacine (extract of madder) produces\nvarious shades of red.\n13. Tincture of saffron (Spanish saffron) for\nyellow.\n14. Blue vitriol, or solution of indigo, pro-\nduces blue.\n15. Burnt sugar produces a fine and perma-\nnent brown color for wines. It is best to boil\ndown common sug;;r or loaf sugar nearly to\ndryness. It is then dissolved in hot water\nsufficient to make the consistency of syrup\nand tor the purpose of neutralizing it and mak-\ning it a more permanent color, add to each gal.\nof su ?ar color, about loz. liquid ammonia.\n16. Green color for absinthe is prepared from\na solution of extract of indigo and turmeric,\ndissolved in spirits.\n17. Violet is obtained by a solution of extract\nof logwood and alum.\n18. Alkanet root produces a fine blue red by\nmacerating in alcohol.\n19. Barwood acquires a dark wine red color\nby digesting in alcohol.\n20. Brazil wood, by being macerated in al-\ncohol, or by boiling for half hour, produces a\ndeep red.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0637.jp2"},"630":{"fulltext":"Wines.\n618\nWines.\nSpurious Coloring Matter.\nThe following coloring matters give, with\nlead acetate, the following precipitates\nPure red wine gives bluish gray.\nRed poppy dirty gray.\nElderberry dirty green.\nBilberry grayish green.\nPrivetberry green.\nf bluish gray to violet in\nr wnrf plrlpr J tne f res h berries and\nDwart eider flne gTeen in the f er _\nI. mented extract.\nMallow flower dark green.\nLogwood feeble dark blue.\nBrazil wood wine red.\nThe following colors, when present, give the\nfollowing precipitates with alum and ammo-\nnium carbonate\nPure red wine gives dirty green.\nRed poppy slate gray.\nElderberry bluish gray.\nBilberry bright violet\nPrivetberry bright green.\nDwarf elderberry bright violet.\nMallow flower bluish violet.\nLogwood dark violet.\nBrazil wood carmine red.\nCranberries can be made into wine in the\nsame way as bilberries. In America the cran-\nberry is largely cultivated, and forms a con-\nsiderable article of commerce, a quantity of the\nfruit being exported. In the northern parts of\nRussia it isalso very abundant.\nCowslip Wine.— To every gal. of water allow\n3 lb. of lump sugar, the rind of 2 lemons, the\njuice of one, the rind and juice of 1 Seville\norange, 1 gal. of cowslip pips. To every 4^j gal.\nof wine allow 1 bottle of brandy. Boil the\nsugar and water together for j^ hour, care-\nfully removing all the scum as it rises. Pour\nthis boiling liquor on the orange and lemon\nrinds, and the juice, which should be strained\nwhen milk warm, add the cowslip pips or flow-\ners, picked from the stalks and seeds and to 9\ngal. of wine 3 tablespoonfuls of good fresh\nbrewers yeast. Let it ferment three or four\ndays, then put all together in a cask with the\nbrandy; and let it remain for two months,\nwhen bottle it off for use. To be boiled hour\nto ferment three or four days to remain in\nthe cask two months. Make this in April or\nMay.\nCurrantWine.— Squeeze the currants through\na coarse bag have equal parts of water and\njuice, or J^$ water, as taste may direct, and add\n3 lb. of loaf sugar to each gal. of the mixture\nmix well and bottle in stone jugs or demijohns;\ntreat same way as blackberry wine— partially\ncorked and keep in a cool place. Some keep a\nbottle of the mixture to fill up the vessels as\nthey effervesce, but it is not always necessary.\nBottle in October, when fermentation ceases\nthis makes a beautiful and delicious wine, and\nimproves with age.\nRed Currant Wine (with Raspberries.)— Ten\ngal. of red currant juice, 1 pt. of raspberry\njuice, 20 gal. of water, 18 lb. of finely sifted\nloaf sugar. Put the ingredients together and\nlet them stand until the sugar is dissolved, then\nput the liquor into a cask and bung lightly for\nthe air to aid in the fermentation. Let it cease\nfermenting, then bung tightly. Bottle in a\nyear s time, using sound corks and sealing\nthem. It will be in excellent condition in three\nmonths.\nCurrie Wine.— Currie powder, 5 oz.; white\nwine, 1 gal. Digest for one week and strain.\nCyprus— Muscatel (very old), 25 liters; alcohol,\n85^, 5 liters white wine (dry and alcoholic), 64\nliters; infusion of walnuts, 1 liter; white sugar,\n2 kilos.; water, 1 liter. Mix the different wines\ntogether add the alcohol and the infusion of\nwalnuts dissolve the sugar in the water, and\nboil till the solution becomes of a golden color;\nadd it to themixture with a little of the infusion\nof cloves.\n2. British Cyprus.— From, the juice of white\nelderberries, 1 qt., and Lisbon sugar, 4 lb., to\nwater, 1 gal., together with }4 drm. each of\nbruised ginger and cloves. When racked add\nraisins and brandy, of each 2 oz.\nDamson Wine.\n1. Water 12 gal.\nDamsons (bruised) 8 gal.\nRaw sugar 30 lb.\nFerment, then add\nRed tartar (dissolved) 6 oz.\nCloves (bruised) J4 oz.\nLet it stand until fine, then bottle.\n2. Crush 20 lb. ripe damson plums; boil in 3\ngal. water; press out the juice; add 6 lb. sugar;\nput in a barrel and let it ferment; then add\nafter two weeks a little good brandy; bottle.\n3. One gal. of boiling water to every 8 lb.\nof bruised fruit, 2% lb. of sugar to each gal. of\njuice.\nAYell bruise the fruit and pour the boiling\nwater on it; let it stand forty-eight hours.\nThen strain the mixture into a cask and put\nin the sugar. When fermentation ceases fill\nup the cask and bung closely. Bottle in ten\nmonths time. It will be fit for use in a year,\nbut improves with keeping. Time required,\nabout two years.\nDetannation of Wines. The Formulary rec-\nommends the following method for removing\nthe tannin or astringent matter from sherry\nwine\nSherry 7 pt.\nWhite of egg 1 fl. oz.\nAlcohol 1 pt.\nBeat the white of egg to a froth and mix it\nwith wine; heat to about 170° F., or until the\nalbumen is coagulated. Then cool, add the\nalcohol, and after standing a few hours, filter\nclear through paper.\nThis wine is a much better menstruum and\npreservative medium for organic substances\nthan sherry Itself.\nDetartarization of Wine. See Management of\nWine, on page 614.\nElder Wine.\nAlcohol, 90* 12^ gal.\nWater 12^ gal.\nElderberries (juice of) 634 gal.\nLoaf sugar 18% lb.\nPort wine 2J4 gal.\nOrange flower water pt.\nAllow it to stand one week; draw off.\nElderberry Wine.—l. Gather the berries when\nquite ripe, on a dry day pick them off the\nstems, and bruise them with your hands. Strain\nthe juice let the liquor rest in glazed earthen-\nware pans for twelve hours to settle. Allow^o\nevery pint of juice a 1)4 pt. ot water, and to\nevery gallon of the mixed water and juice 3 lb.\nof good moist sugar. Put it over the fire in a\nlarge saucepan, and when it is ready to boil,\nclarify it with the whites of four eggs. Let it\nboil for an hour, and, when nearly cold, put in\nsome yeast to work it pour it into the cask,\nreserving some of the liquor to fill up the cask\nwith, as it sinks with working. If you have\nabout 10 gal. or so, it should be fit to bottle off\nin two months time after it has been closed\ndown. Keep at least a year in bottle.\n2. Gather the berries when quite ripe, and in\ndry weather. Pick them clean put them into\na copper with gal. of water, and keep up a\nslow fire until the berries sink, then strain the\njuice through a hair sieve, and to every gallon\nof it allow 3 gal. of soft water, and to every\ngallon of the mixed liquor 3 lb. of good moist\nsugar. Put back into the copper, and boil for\nan hour, skimming thoroughly draw off into a\ntube, and, when it is about 70°, put a toast\nspread with yeast into it, and let it work for\nforty-eight hours, or longer if necessary pour\nit or draw it off if you have a tap in your tub,","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0638.jp2"},"631":{"fulltext":"Wines.\n619\nWines.\nas should be the case, into the cask which is to\nhold it, and if you have 18 gal. of liquor, add\n1 oz. of cloves, 2 oz. of allspice, 2 oz. of Jamaica\nginger, and 1 oz. of sweet almonds, all bruised.\nBung very slightly until fermentation is quite\nover; then close down tightly and tap in three\nmonths.\n3. Old recipe Put the ripe picked over ber-\nries into an earthen pot; put this into a copper\nwith sufficient water to come up about two-\nthirds of the height of the pot, which is about\nas far as the berries should reach inside be\ncareful that no water touches them. Make a\ngentle fire, and keep the pot in the water till it\nis quite hot then take it out. Pour the berries\ninto a coarse cloth, strain the juice, and put it\ninto a large saucepan to every quart of juice\nallow a pound of good moist sugar; let it boil,\nand skim well. It should boil until rather\nthick, then pour it into a jar. Put 60 lb. of\nraisins into a cask, and fill it up with water; let\nit stand for a fortnight stir it well every day\nthen pour off the liquor into a clean cask that\njust holds it. It should stand until it has done\nhissing; then bung it down close, and stand\nuntil fine. To every gallon of this liquor, allow\nhalf a pint of the elder sirup mix well, and\nwhen it has fined down, rack off into another\ncask bottle off after three months.\n4. Chop a quantity of Malaga raisins quite\nfine allow lqt. of water to every lb. of raisins,\nand put raisins and water into an open tub\ncover over with a double cloth, and let it stand\nfor nine days, stirring up each day. Then draw\noff the liquor as long as it will run, and press\nthe raisins to get out the remainder of the\njuice mix all together in a barrel. To every\ngal. of liquor allow 1 pt. of the juice of elder-\nberries, prepared simply by mashing the berries\nwith the hands, and straining off the juice.\nStop down close, and stand for six weeks, then\ndraw off the fine liquor, and to every gal. add\n14 lb. of moist sugar. Stand again until quite\nfine, and then bottle off. Keep in a cool cellar\nfor use.\n5. Take 30 lb. of Malaga raisins, add 8 gal. of\nwater to them, and allow to steep for twelve\ndays; draw off the liquor, and put it into a\ncopper with 2 gal. of elderberry juice boil for\nten minutes, removing all scum as it rises then\nadd 7 lb. of moist sugar, y% oz. of allspice,\ny% oz. of cloves, and 2 oz. of Jamaica ginger,\nall well bruised; boil again for an hour,\nskimming thoroughly; draw it off and float\nsome toast covered with yeast in it leave it to\nwork for two or three days, then pour into a\nclean cask, and, when all fermentation is over,\nbung down tightly. If made the end of August\nor in September, this wine would be ready to\ntap about Christmas, and should be bottled in\nJanuary or March.\n6. Allow 3 qt. of elderberries, which are quite\nripe and carefully picked over, to every gal. of\nwater; boil, skimming well, until the berries\nbreak, then strain the liquor, and to every gal.\nallow 3 lb. of moist sugar, and to every 4 gal.\nadd 2 oz. of bruised ginger, 2 oz. of cloves, and\n2 oz. allspice; boil for an hour; work with\nyeast when nearly cold cask it the third day,\nand when all working is over, bung down.\n1. To every gal. of berries allow a gal. of\nwater; steep in a tub for four days, bruising\nwell each day. Squeeze the pulp, and strain off\nthe juice. To every gal. add 3 lb. of brown\nsugar, and spices in the same proportion as in\nthe above recipe tie the spice in a muslin bag\nboil all the ingredients for an hour work with\nyeast when nearly cold then pour into a well\ncleaned cask, and bung down when the fer-\nmenting operation has quite ceased. Bottle off\nin two or three months. Into every bottle put\na lump of white sugar and a little brandy.\n8. To 1 gal. of berries add 3 qt. of water;\nbruise in a tub, and stand for three days. To\nevery qt. of liquor allow 1 lb. of moist sugar, 1\noz. of ginger, and 1 oz. of cloves, both bruised\n(the spice should be put into muslin bags) put\nall together into a perfectly clean vessel, and\nboil for one hour then pour into an earthen-\nware pan; when cool enough to dip in the\nfinger, put in a tablespoonf ul of brewers yeast;\nlet it work three days, then skim and put in a\nsmall cask just large enough to hold the\namount. Keep out the air for three weeks,\nbut do not bung down close until that period\nhas elapsed. Tap in two months to test it if\nfine, bottle off.\nElder flower wine is made from the flowers in\nthis manner: 1. Gather the flowers on a dry\nday; remove all stalks, and to every qt. of\nflowers allow 1 gal. of water and 3 lb. of loaf\nsugar boil the sugar and water for a quarter\nof an hour; then pour it on the flowers, and\nlet it work for three days; then strain the\nwine carefully through a hair sieve, and put it\ninto a cask. To every 5 gal. of wine add y 2 oz.\nof isinglass, dissolved in cider, and 3 eggs\n(whites only) beaten up close up the cask, and\nstand six months before bottling off.\n2. Boil 18 lb. of powdered loaf sugar in 6 gal.\nof spring water beat up the whites of 2 eggs,\nand add skim very thoroughly, and put in a\nM of a peck of elder flowers, picked from their\nstems take off the fire, and stir until cool, then\nadd 4 tablespoonf uls of yeast and 6 spoonfuls of\nlemon juice, strained and free from pips; mix\nwell with the liquor by stirring twice daily for\nfour days. Stone 6 lb. of Malaga raisins, and\nput them into a well cleaned out cask pour\nthe wine upon them. Stop up the cask closely,\nand keep it in a rather warm place. If made in\nJuly or August, bottle off in February or\nMarch. This wine, when well made, very much\nresembles Frontignac.\nFig Wine. Figs are largely employed, es-\npecially in Algeria, for the production of fic-\ntitious wine. For this purpose figs from Asia\nMinor are preferred on account of their rela-\ntive cheapness aad richness in sugar. When\nthe fruit is treated with a suitable quantity of\ntepid water, acidified with tartaric acid, f er\nmentation rapidly commences, resulting in the\nproduction of a vinous liquid of about 8° alco-\nholic strength, and so inexpensive that it de-\nfies all competion of genuine grape wine,\nAlgerian or otherwise. Fig wine cannot be\ndistinguished either by taste or the ordinary\nmethods of analysis from genuine grape wine,\nespecially when it is mixed with a proportion\nof the latter. The detection of fig wine, how-\never, is rendered comparatively easy by the\nfact that it contains mannitol. In order to\nseparate the mannitol, 100 c. c. of fig wine are\nevaporated to a syrup, which is allowed to stand\nin a cool place for twenty-four hours. At the\nend of this time the residue will have solidified,\nwell defined groups of crystals being formed.\nThe crystals are washed with cold alcohol of\n85$ strength in order to remove impurities.\nThe residue is mixed with animal charcoal and\nextracted with boiling 85$ alcohol and filtered.\nThe alcoholic solution yields on evaporation a\ncrystalline mass of mannitol, which may be\nrecognized by its physical and chemical. prop-\nerties. Certain white wines from the Gironde\ndistrict, as well as raisin and some other wines,\ncontain mannitol, but only to the extent of a\nfew decigrammes per lit.; while fig wine con-\ntains from 6 to 8 grm. per lit. By a determi-\nnation of the mannitol it is possible to detect\nan adulteration of normal Algerian wine with\none half or even one fourth of fig wine.\nTo Fine Wines.— There are various modes of\nfining wine; eggs, isinglass, gelatine and gum\narabic are all used for the purpose. Which-\never of these articles is used, the process is\nalways the same. Supposing eggs (the cheapest)\nto be used Draw a gal. or so of the wine and\nmix 1 qt. of it with the whites of 4 eggs, by\nstirring it with a whisk; afterward, when thor-\noughly mixed, pour it back into the cask\nthrough the bunghole, and stir up the whole\ncask in a rotary direction with a clean split\nstick inserted through the bunghole. Having","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0639.jp2"},"632":{"fulltext":"Wines. 630\nstirred it sufficiently, pour in the remainder of\nthe wine drawn off, until the cask is full; then\nstir again, skimming- oil the bubbles that rise\nto the surface. When thoroughly mixed by\nstirring, close the bunghole, and leave it to\nstand for three or four days. This quantity of\nclarified wine will fine 13 doz. of port or sherry.\nThe other clearing ingredients are applied in\nthe same manner, the material being cut into\nsmall pieces, and dissolved in the qt. of wine,\nand the cask stirred in the same manner.\nTo Lay Down Wine. Having carefully\ncounted the bottles, they are stored away in\ntheir respective bins, a layer of sand or saw-\ndust being placed under the first tier and\nanother over it; a second tier is laid over this,\nprotected by a lath, the head of the second\nbeing laid to the bottom of the first; over this\nanother bed of sawdust is laid, not too thick,\nthen another lath; and so on till the bin is filled.\nWine so laid in will be ready for use according\nto its quality and age. Port wine, old in the\nwood, will be ready to drink in five or six\nmonths; but if it is a fruity wine, it will im-\nprove every year. Sherry, if of good quality,\nwill be fit to drink as soon as the sickness (as\nits first condition after bottling is called) ceases,\nand will also improve; but the cellar must be\nkept at a perfectly steady temperature, neither\ntoo hot nor too cold, but about 55° or 60°, and\nabsolutely free from draughts of cold air.\nTo Fine White Wine.— To fine 30 gal. white\nwine the whites of 3 eggs, will be required with\nthe addition of y% an egg shell reduced to pow-\nder, and a tablespoonful of salt. Beat up\nall together with a little of the wine and\nthen pour gradually into the wine, stirring\nconstantly.\nTo Fine Bed Wines.— The operation is carried\non in the same manner. To lighten up a wine\nadd 6 eggs and a handful of salt, use the whites,\nyelks, and shells.\nFlatness of Wine. See Management of Wine,\npage 615.\nGinger Wine.—l. This is an excellent stoma-\nchic, and is very popular in England as a cheap\nsubstitute for a grape wine\nSugar 12 lb.\nWater 3^ gal.\nGinger. 4 oz.\nBoil them together for half an hour; when\ncooled to 75 degrees, add the rinds of 6 lemons\nand some good yeast; let it ferment for ten or\nfourteen days, then add 1 pint of brandy and\nbottle if for use.\n2. To 9 gal. of water allow 27 lb. of loaf sugar,\n9 lemons, 12 oz. of bruised ginger, 3 tablespoon-\nf uls of yeast, 2 lb. of raisins stoned and chop-\nped, lpt. of brandy.\nBoil together for one hour in a copper (let it\npreviously be well scoured and beautifully\nclean) the water, sugar, lemon rinds and bruis-\ned ginger. Remove every particle of scum as\nit rises, and when the liquor is sufficiently\nboiled, put it into a large tub or pan, as it must\nnot remain in the copper. When nearly cold 1\nadd the yeast, which must be thick and very\nfresh, and the next day, put all in a dry cask\nwith the strained lemon juice and chopped\nraisins. Stir the wine every day for a fort-\nnight; then add the brandy, stop the cast down\nby degrees, and in a few weeks it will be fit to\nbottle. Sufficient to make 9 gal. of wine. The\nbest time for making this wine is either in\nMarch or September.\nGooseberry Wine, Effervescing.— To every gal-\nlon of water allow 6 lb. of green gooseberries,\n3 lb. lump sugar.\nThis wine should be prepared from unripe\ngooseberries, in order to avoid the flavor which\nthe fruit would give to the wine when in a ma-\nture state. Its briskness depends more upon\nthe time of bottling than upon the unripe\nstate of the fruit, for effervescing wine can be\nmade from fruit that is ripe as well as that\nwhich is unripe. The fruit should be se-\nlected when it has nearly attained its full\nWines.\ngrowth, and consequently before it shows any\ntendency to ripen. Any bruised or decayed\nberries and those that are very small should be\nrejected. The blossom and stalk ends should\nbe removed, and the fruit well bruised in a tub\nor pan, in such quantities as to insure each ber-\nry being broken without crushing the seeds.\nPour the water (which should be warm) on the\nfruit, squeeze and stir it with the hand until all\nthe pulp is removed from the skin and seeds,\nand cover the whole closely for twenty-four\nhours; after which strain it through a coarse\nbag, and press it with as much force as can be\nconveniently applied, to extract the whole of\nthe juice and liquor the fruit may contain. To\nevery 40 or 50 lb. of fruit 1 gal. more of hot\nwater may be passed through the marc, or\nhusks, in order to obtain any soluble matter\nthat may remain, and be again pressed. The\njuice should be put in a tub or pan of sufficient\nsize to contain all of it, and the sugar added to\nit. Let it be well stirred until the sugar is dis-\nsolved; and place the pan in a warm situation;\nkeep it closely covered, and let it ferment for\na day or two. It must then be drawn off into\nclean casks, placed a little on one side for the\nscum that rises to be thrown out, and the casks\nkept filled with the remaining must that should\nbe reserved for that purpose. When the ac-\ntive fermentation has ceased,the casks should be\nplugged upright, again filled, if necessary, the\nbungs be put in loosely, and after a few days,\nwhen the fermentation is a little more languid\n(which may be known by the hissing noise\nceasing), the bungs should be driven in tight,\nand a spile hole made, to give vent if neces-\nsary. About November or December, on a\nclear, fine day, the wine should be racked from\nits lees into clean casks, which may be rinsed\nwith brandy. After a month, it should be ex-\namined to see if it is sufficiently clear for bot-\ntling; if not, it must be fined with isinglass,\nwhich may be dissolved in some of the wine; 1\noz. will be sufficient for 9 gal. In March or\nApril, or when the gooseberry bushes begin to\nblossom, the wine must be bottled, in order to\ninsure its being effervescing. Make this the\nend of May or the beginning of June, before\nthe berries ripen.\nGrape Wine.—l. Ripe grapes.— Mash sound,\nripe grapes well with your hands in an\nearthen pan, or if not with your hands,\nwith a perfectly tasteless stick of wood.\nDo not crush the seeds; strain the liquor\ninto a cask, gently squeeze the pulp, pour-\ning the remainder of the juice into the cask\n(strained). Let it stand aside for a fortnight,\nthen draw it off into another cask, covering\nup the bunghole with a piece of slate till all\nfermentation has ceased. Bottle in six months,\ncork and seal, and it will be drinkable in twelve\nmonths time.\n2. Grape Wine.— Ten lb. fresh grapes are put\ninto a large jar or crock, 3 qt. boiling water\npoured over them, and when the water is cool\nenough to permit of it, squeeze the grapes well\nwith the hand. After allowing the jar to re-\nmain 3 or 4 days covered with a cloth, press out\nthe grapes, then add 5 lb. sugar. Allow it to\nremain for one week, skim and strain carefully,\nthen bottle, corking loosely. After the fer-\nmentation is completed, strain and seal tightly.\n3. Put 20 lb. of ripe grapes into a stone jar\nand pour on 6 qt. boiling water when cooled\nsufficiently squeeze by hand. Cover jar with\ncloth, let stand for three days, then press out the\njuice; add 101b. crushed sugar. After standing\na week, scum, strain and bottle, corking loose-\nly. When fermentation is complete strain again\nand bottle, corking tightly. Lay on side in\ncool place.\nBritish Hock, British Bed Hock— Prom cream\nof tartar, 1J4 oz.; tartaric acid, )4 oz. (both in\nvery fine powder); juices of the purple plum,\nripe apples, and red beet, of each (warmed), 5\npt.; lemon juice, 1 pt.; with white sugar, 2}£\nlb. per gal.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0640.jp2"},"633":{"fulltext":"AVines.\n621\nWines.\nHoney Wine.\nHoney 20 lb.\nCider 12 gal.\nFerment, then add\nRum 14 gal.\nBrandy y 2 gal.\nRed or white tartar (dissolved) 6 oz.\nBitter almonds 34 oz.\nCloves 34 oz.\nThis is also called mead wine.\nKola Wine.—\nKola nuts in coarse powder 1 oz.\nSherry wine 30 oz.\nMacerate for eight days and filter.\nThis wine may also be made with roasted\nkola nuts, which give a better tasting prepara-\ntion and it is none the worse for the addition of\na little sugar.— Dieterich in Phar. Central.\nMadeira Wine.— 1. To 10 gal. prepared cider\nadd 1 gal. Madeira wine; 3 qt. pure proof spirits;\n1 qt. brandy; to 1 oz. tartaric acid; 34 drm.\noil bitter almonds cut in y 2 pt. alcohol; 13^ lb.\nloaf sugar. Allow it to stand for two weeks;\nrack, fine and repeat if necessary.\n2. Pale malt, ground, 4 bushels; boiling water,\n44 gal.; infuse, sti ain otf this while warm; take\n24 gal. and add sugar candy, 14 lb., and cream of\ntartar, 3 oz.; when dissolved add yeast 2 lb.;\nferment, keep skimming off the yeast and when\nthe fermentation is nearly finished add raisin\nwine, 23^ gal-; brandy and sherry wine of each\n2 gal.; rum, 1 qt.; bung it down for six or nine\nmonths. A second infusion of the malt may\nbe made for beer.\n3. Purified honey 15 oz.\nHop tops oz.\nAlcohol, W° 193^ oz.\nFrench wine 43^ qt.\nAdd 24 oz. tincture burned sugar. Filter.\nMead or Honey Wine.— Take 10 gal. of water,\n2 gal. of strained honey, with 2 or 3 oz. of white\nJamaica ginger root, bruised, and 2 lemons cut\nin slices. Mix all together and boil for half an\nhour, carefully skimming all the time. Five\nminutes after the boiling commences add 2 oz.\nof hops. When partially cold put it into a cask\nto work off. In about three weeks after work-\ning it will be fit to bottle. This is a wholesome\nand pleasant beverage, particularly grateful in\nsummer when drunk mixed with water.\nBritish Malmsey.— From sliced or grated par-\nsnips, 4 lbs.; boiling water, 1 gal.; when cold\npress out the liquid, and to each gal. add of\ncream of tartar, 3^2 oz., and good Muscovado\nsugar, 3 lb.; ferment, rack and add of brandy,\n3% to 5%. Good Malaga raisins may be substi-\ntuted for the sugar.\nMaturation of Winet See Management of\nWine, page 615.\nMedicated Wines. Dieterich, in a late issue\nof his Pharmaceutische Manual, gives a number\nof formulas for the preparation of medicated\nwines. Few, if any, of these can be regarded\nas tipples, but all are peculiar for the fact that\nthe wine from which they are made is detan-\nnated. We give a selection of the more impor-\ntant formulas for articles which should be sal-\nable if put up in attractive form and brought\nbefore customers in a nice way.\nCascara Sagrada Wine.\nWhite gelatine, in strips 15 grn.\nDistilled water 234 drm.\nDissolve by the aid of heat, and add to—\nSherry wine 28 oz.\nShake well, set aside for some time, then add—\nTasteless fluid extract of cascara\nsagrada 13^ oz.\nSugar 13^ oz.\nSet aside in a cool place for eight days, and\nfilter.\nA similar wine, not free from the bitter\nprinciple of the bark, may be made by macera-\nting 13^ oz. of cascara sagrada and 13^ oz. of\nsugar in 30 oz. of sherry, for eight days, and\nfiltering. A Rhamnus frangula wine can be\nmade in the same way.\nCinchona Wine.—\nWhite gelatine 15 grn.\nDistilled water 2}^ drm.\nSherry wine 18 oz.\nDetannate in the manner directed above;\nthen add—\nSimple syrup 6 oz.\nTincture of cinchona 6 oz.\nAfter eight days, filter.\nMay also be made with red wine, or direct\nfrom the bark, the quantities being-\nGelatine. 15 grn.\nDistilled water 23^ drm.\nSherry wine 30 oz.\nCinchona bark, in coarse powder 10 drm.\nSugar 13^ oz.\nMacerate for eight days, and filter.\nIn this case, care must be taken to have the\ngelatine and wine reaction complete before add-\ning the cinchona; otherwise the alkaloid may\nbe thrown out by the tannin of the wine.\nImproved Quinine Wine.\nGelatine .15 grn.\nDistilled water 2)4, drm.\nDissolve, and add to—\nSherry wine 293^ oz.\nShake, and set aside to clear then add the\nfollowing solution\nHydrochlorate of quinine 30 grn.\nDilute hydrochloric acid 30 drops.\nWater J^j oz.\nAfter a week filter.\nThis is double the strength given by Die-\nterich.\nTo Mellow Wines.— Cover the orifices of the\nvessel containing it with bladder closely fas-\ntened, instead of the usual materials, and an\naqueous exhalation will pass through the blad-\nder, leaving some fine crystallizations on the\nsurface of the wine, which, when skimmed off,\nleaves the wine in a highly improved state of\nflavor. Remnants of wine covered in this\nmanner, whether in bottles or in casks, will not\nturn mouldy as when stopped in the usual way,\nbut will be improved instead of being deterio-\nrated.\nBritish Red Moselle.— Malmsey, colored with\nclarified elderberry juice.\nBritish Sparkling Moselle.— From rich cider\napples (carefully peeled and garbled), pressed\nwith one-fourth of their weight of white mag-\nnum bonum plums (previously stoned), and the\njuice fermented with 23^ lb. double refined\nsugar per gal., as champagne.\nMould. See Management of Wine, on page 615.\nMulberry.— Juice of the fruit, 10 gal.; or of\nmulberries, bruised, 15 gal.; water, 15 gal.; sugar,\n35 gal. Boil and ferment, then add spirit, 2 or\n3 gal.; red tartar, 7 oz.; cassia, oz.; bitter al-\nmonds, 3*6 oz.\n2. Ripe mulberries, ripe apples, equal quanti-\nties; sugar or honey, 1 lb. to the gal. Express\nthe juice, put it into a cask, and add the sugar.\nFerment with yeast, 1 qt. to every hhd.; cate-\nchu, y 2 lb.; red argol, 3*6 lb.\nMulled Wine.— Take 34 oz. bruised cinnamon,\n3^ nutmeg, grated, and 10 bruised cloves. In-\nfuse them in ¥2 pt. boiling water for an hour,\nstrain, and add U oz. white sugar. Pour the\nwhole into 1 pt. hot port or sherry wine. This\nis a good cordial and restorative in low stages\nof fever, or in the debility of convalescence\nfrom fevers.\nBritish Muscatel— As British sparkling mo-\nselle, with some infusion of clary, or of the\nmusk plant, to flavor it.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0641.jp2"},"634":{"fulltext":"Wines.\n622\nWines.\nOrange Wine.— The oranges must be perfectly\nripe. Peel them and cut tnem in halves, cross-\nwise of the cells; squeeze into a tub. The press\nused must be so close that the seeds cannot pass\ninto the must. Add 2 lb. white sugar to each\ngal. sour orange juice, or 1 lb. to each gal. sweet\norange juice, and 1 qt. water to each gal. of the\nmixed sugar and juice. Close fermentation is\nnecessary. The resultant wine is amber col-\nored, and tastes like dry hock, with the orange\naroma. Vinegar can be made from the refuse,\nand extract from the peels.\nPeach, to Make.— Take of cold soft water, 18\ngal.; refined sugar, 25 lb.; honey, 6 lb.; white\ntartar, in fine powder, 2 oz.; peaches, 60 or 80\nin number. Ferment, then add 2 gal brandy.\nThis will make 18 gal.\nThe first division is to be put into the vat,\nand the day after, before the peaches are put\nin, take the stones from them, break them and\nthe kernels, then put them and the pulp into\nthe vat.\nPepsin Wine.\nWhite gelatine, in strips 15 grns.\nDistilled water 2}4 drm.\nWhite wine 25 oz.\nDetannate as described. At the same time\nmix together\nPepsin 7 drm.\nGlycerine ,6 drm.\nDistilled water 6 drm.\nAdd to the wine along with 40 min. of hydro-\nchloric acid macerate for eight days, shaking\noccasionally; then filter.\nPort.\n1. Ripefruit .4 lb.\nClear soft water 1 gal.\nSugar 3 lb.\nCream tartar dissolved in boiling\nwater 1)4 oz.\nBrandy 2 to 3%.\nFlavoring as required.\nThe addition of an equal quantity of fruit\nand sugar increases the strength.\n2. Add to 10 gal. prepared cider, 2 gal. genuine\nport wine 2 qt. best cognac brandy 1 pt. sim-\nple syrup; 1 lb. bruised raisins; 1 oz. tincture\nkino J^ oz. extract rhatany 3 qt. proof spir-\nits. Allow it to stand for two weeks, rack, fine\nand repeat if necessary. Keep the wine cool.\n3. British Port, London Port, Southampton\nPort\nRed Cape 2 gal.\nDamson or elder wine 1 gal.\nBrandy pt.\nPowdered kino oz.\n4. Strong old cider 6 gal.\nElderberry juice 4 gal.\nSloe juice 3 gal.\nSugar 28 lb.\nPowdered extract of rhatany 1 lb.\nAt time of racking add brandy gal.\nGood port wine 2 gal.\n5. Good port, 12 gal.; rectified alcohol, 6 gal.;\nFrench brandy, 3 gal.; strong rough cider, 42\ngal.; mix in a well sulphured cask.\n6. Port wine, 8 gal.; brandy, 6 gal.; sloe juice,\n4 gal.; strong rough cider, 45 gal.; as the last.\n7. Cider, 24 gal.; juice of elderberries, 6 gal.;\nsloe juice, 4 gal.; rectified alcohol, 3 gal.;\nbrandy, 1*4 gal.; powdered rhatany, 7 lb.; isin-\nglass, 4 oz.; dissolved in a gallon of cider; bung\nit down in three months it will be fit to bottle,\nbut should not be drunk until the next year\nif a rougher quality is required, the quantity\nof rhatany may be increased, or alum, 5 or 6\noz. (dissolved in water), may be added.\nQuinine Wine.— Break into small pieces 1 oz.\nof sulphate of quinine, and put it in a glass\njar with 2 oz. of 90% Alcohol; let the qui-\nnine infuse for twenty-four hours; add 1 qt.\nof claret, and let it remain thus for twelve\ndays then filter the wine through a felt bag,\nand bottle for use. The above quantity of qui-\nnine may be dissolved, without the addition\nof alcohol in any of the following wines:\nMedeira, Marsala, Malaga, Lunel, or Alicant.\nRacking Wine. See Management of Wine, on\npage 615.\nBed Wine.—\nCider 16 gal.\nHoney 27 lb.\nTartar (red) 8 oz.\nRaw sugar 3 lb.\nSliced red beet 6 lb.\nBoil, ferment, add—\nCassia oz.\nGinger J^ oz.\nSpirit 5 qts.\nRipening of Wine. See Mananagement of\nWine, on page 615.\nRopiness of Wine. See Management of Wine,\non page 615.\nSenna Wine-\nAlexandrian senna leaves 1}4 oz.\nSherry wine 27 oz.\nMacerate for eight days, press and strain;\nthen add 5 grns. of gelatine dissolved in 2}4 drm.\nof distilled water, and then the following:\nTincture of orange peel 1 oz.\nTincture of ginger *4 oz.\nAromatic tincture 80 min.\nHoney .._.. .2 oz.\nAgain allow to stand for ten days, and filter.\nThis wine is an excellent aperient for persons\nsuffering from hemorrhoids. It should be taken\nin tablespoonfuls, according to the effect de-\nsired.\nSherry Wine.— I. To 8 gal. prepared cider add\n6 qt. best sherry wine 1 gal. native wine J4\ndrm. oil bitter almonds cut in pt. alcohol 3\ngal. proof spirits 1 lb. sugar saffron to color.\nLet the wine stand for ten days, rack and fine.\n2. Cape or raisin wine slightly flavored with\na very little bitter almond cake, or, what is\nmore convenient, a little of the essential oil\ndissolved in alcohol (essence of bitter almonds).\n3. To the last add a minute quantity of sweet\nbrier, eau de fleurs d oranges, or orris, to give\nit a very slight bouquet.— 4. To each gal. of\nstrong raisin must, add, when racking, 1 Seville\norange and 2 bitter almonds, both sliced. By\nomitting the almonds, and adding 2 or 3 green\ncitrons to each 10 gal., this forms British\nMadeira\n5. Loaf sugar 32 lb.\nSugar candy 10 lb.\nWater 16 gal.\nBoil, add pale ale wort (as for Madeira), 6 gal.;\nyeast, 1 lb.; on the third day add raisins, stoned,\n10 lb.; and in another two or three days brand y\n1 gal.; bitter almonds, grated, 1 dr.; bung it\ndown for four months, draw it off into another\ncask, add brandy 1 gal., and in three months\nbottle it.— 6. Teneriffe, slightly flavored with\ncherry laurel or almonds, forms a most excel-\nlent British sherry, either alone or diluted\nwith an equal quantity of Cape or raisin wine.\nSour Grupes, Cherry Wine from.— The way\nan imitation sherry is made in England is to\nmix equal quantities of new cider and honey,\nand evaporate to a density so that a fresh egg\nwill float so as to be half immersed. The liquid\nis then cooled and kept in a stone vessel at a\ntemperature of from 60° to 67° Fah., until in\nabout twelve or fourteen days the peculiar\nsmell of the fermentation is strongly estab-\nlished; then the liquid is put into a barrel,\nclosed up, and placed in a cool cellar to settle;\nafter three or four days it will be cleared; it is\nthen bottled, and six weeks later is fit for drink-\ning. We believe that grape juice may be used\nin place of cider; but if too acid, sugar and\nwater would only make a kind of lemonade,\nand spoil the sherry taste, which is not acid.\nSugar does not destroy this, but sulphite of\nlime is the proper material (not sulphate).","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0642.jp2"},"635":{"fulltext":"Wire.\n623\nWood.\nSourness in Wine, to Correct a Bad Taste and\nSourness.— Put in a bag the root of wild horse-\nradish cut in bits. Let it down in the wine and\nleave it there two days; t ake this out and put in\nanother, repeating- the same till the wine is\nperfectly restored. Or fill a bag with wheat;\nit will have the same effect.\nSour Wine, to Restore. 1. Take calcined\ngypsum, in powder, 1 oz.; cream of tartar, in\npowder, 2 oz.\nMix them in a pint or more of brandy; pour\nit into the cask; put in, also, a few sticks of\ncinnamon, and then stir the wine without dis-\nturbing the lees. Bung up the cask next day.\n2. Boil 1 gal of wine with some beaten oyster\nshells and crab s claws, burnt into powder, an\nounce of each to every 10 gal. of wine; then\nstrain out the liquor through a sieve, and when\ncold, put it into wine of the same sort, and it\nwill give it a pleasant, lively taste. A lump of\nunslaked lime put into each cask will also keep\nthe wine from turning sour.\nWine, Spirits of. See Alcohol.\nStrawberry Wine. Take of cold, soft water,\n7 gal.; cidar, 6 gal.; strawberries, 6 gal. Fer-\nment. Mix raw sugar, 161b.; red tartar, in fine\npowder, 3 oz.; the peel and juice of 2 lemons;\nthen add brandy, 2 or 3 qt. This will make 18\ngal.\nAnother.— Take of cold, soft water, 10 gal.;\nstrawberries, 9 gal. Ferment. Mix raw sugar,\n25 lb.; red tartar, in fine powder, 3 oz.; 2 lemons\nand 2 oranges, peel and juice then add brandy,\n1 gal. This will make 18 gal.\nTo Sweeten Wine.— In 30 gal. of wine infuse a\nhandful of the flowers of clary then add 1 lb.\nof mustard seed, dry ground, put it into a bag,\nand sink it to the bottom of the cask.\nTartaric Acid in Wine, Detection of Free.—\nProfessor Claus evaporates to a syrup and agi-\ntates with ether. If free tartaric acid is pres-\nent, the ether leaves, on evaporation, a crystal-\nline deposit, which, if dissolved in water, gives,\non the addition of an alcoholic solution of\npotassic acetate, a precipitate of tartar. The\nauthor proves the solubility of tartaric acid in\nether v which is denied in most text books.—\nPolyt. Notizblatt.\nBritish Tokay.— To good cider, 18 gal., add of\nelderberry juice, \\b gal.; honey, 281b.; sugar, 14\nlb.; red argol, in powder, lb.; crystallized\ntartaric acid, 3 oz.; mix, boil, ferment, and,\nwhen the active fermentation is complete, add\nof brandy, 1 gal., and suspend in the liquid from\nthe bunghole a mixture of cassia and ginger\nof each, J^j oz.; cloves and capsicum of each, 34\noz.; the whole bruised and loosely inclosed in a\ncoarse muslin bag. It will be ripe in 12 months.\nWhite Wine\nCider 100 gal.\nHoney 80 lb.\nSugar 20 lb.\nMix and ferment. Add 6 gal. spirit; white\ntartar, 1± lb.; bitter almonds bruised, 1 oz.\nWire 9 to Ascertain Amount Required for\nCable.— For the length of a wire in a strand, add\nto a given length as many times the circumfer-\nence of the strand as there are twists in the\ngiven length, for the outside wires; and pro-\nportionately for the inner row. The center\nwire is supposed to be straight. Proceed in the\nsame way for the strands. The excess of wire\nin each strand added to the excess of the\nstrands over the length of the cable will give\nthe whole length of wire used.\nWire Rope, to Preserve.— Apply raw linseed\noil with a piece of sheepskin, wool inside; or\nmix the oil with equal parts of Spanish b own\nand lampblack. To preserve wire rope under\nground or in water, take mineral or vegetable\ntar, add 1 bushel of fresh slaked lime to 1 bar-\nrel of tar, which will neutralize the acid; boil it\nwell, then saturate the rope with the boiling\ntar.\nWire, to Straighten. —Such a tool is shown\nin the accompanying cut. It consists of a cast-\ning about 10 in. in length, having on each end a\nbearing which may be supported in suitable\nboxes. The pulley is a part of the casting, and\nis 3 in. in diameter and 2 in. wide. Four steel\npins are inserted 1 in. apart and a little to one\nside of a central longitudinal line. A hole a\nlittle larger than the wire to be straightened is\ndrilled axially through the bearing. The wire\npasses through the tool over and under\nthe steel pins. It is well lubricated and is\npulled through as the tool revolves rapidly.\nWire, Comparison of Gauges, Re-\nsistance, etc. See Appendix.\nWoad.— Isatis sativa, a plant containing a\nsmall amount of indigo, formerly used as a dye,\nnow added to indigo vats for wool dying, as a\npromoter of fermentation. A variety of the\nplant cultivated in the south of France is\nknown under the name of pastel, whence the\nterm pastel vat, applied to a kind of indigo vat.\nWood s Alloy. See Alloys (Fusible).\nWood, Brazil. A soft red wood pro-\nduced by Ccesalpinia cristata, a tree growing in\nBrazil. The wood is brought over in irregular\nknotty masses. When freshly chipped it has a\nyellow color, but on exposure to air and mois-\nture it turns reddish. It may be distinguished\nfrom the other hard, red woods, by the cir-\ncumstance that it speedily imparts a bright\nred color to water.\nWood, Cam (Kambe Wood).— Camwood is\nobtained from Sierra Leone, the Gaboon, and\nother parts of the west coast of Africa. It be-\nlongs to the hard section of the red woods. It\nyields its coloring matter to water much more\nreadily than barwood and sanders, but much\nless freely than Brazil wood. No true, perma-\nnent extract of camwood can be said to exist,\nsince boiling water charged with its coloring\nprinciple, redeposits the same on cooling, and\nretains merely a trace.\nWood, Bone Surface on. Levigated\noxide of tin, prepared putty powder, 1 oz.;\npowdered oxalic acid, X A oz.; powdered gum, 20\ngrn.; make into a stiff paste with water, and\nevenly and thinly spread it over the strap. If\nit does not stick, use glue.\nWood, to Bronze. See Bronzing.\nWood, Cement for. See Cements.\nWood, Cracks in. Melt equal parts of\npitch and gutta percha in an iron pot; thor-\noughly mix by stirring. Make up in sticks and\nmelt into the cracks with a warm iron.\nWood, Enamel for. See Enameling.\nWood, Cheap Finish for.— A cheap pol-\nish to brighten hard oil finished work after\nbeing rubbed.\nGumshellac 1 oz.\nGum arabic J4 oz.\nGum copal ^4 oz.\nPowder and sift through a piece of muslin;\nput them in a closely corked bottle with 1 pt.\nalcohol, in a warm place, shaking every day\ntill the gums are dissolved, then strain and\nbottle.\nWood, to Fireproof. See Fireproof-\ning.\nWood, Glue for. See Glues.\nWood, to Harden.— Wood steeped in a\nsolution of iron sulphate or copperas becomes\nvery hard and almnst indestructible.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0643.jp2"},"636":{"fulltext":"Wood.\nWood, to Petrify.— Wood may be petrified\nby placing it in the following- mixture after the\nebullition has ceased Equal parts chalk Pee-\nbles powder, white vinegar, gem salt, and rock\nalum. Mix well.\nWood, to Polish. See Polishing.\nWood* to Protect. Paraffineand creosote\nare good preservatives for fence posts and shin-\ngles, but too expensive for general use. Coal\ntar is much used, and is no doubt cheaper.\nCrude paraffine can be had at from 7 to 8 cents a\npound. Crude creosote about the same.\nWood, Oiling o/.— Wagon makers or repairers\ncan save their stock from worms by oiling with\nlinseed oil. Single trees, double trees, neck\nyokes, spokes, and cross bars that are of white\nhickory, and are kept in stock for a year or\nmore, will be eaten by worms if not kept in a\ndark place or otherwise protected. Coal and\nkerosene oil are good also, and the expense of\napplying is but little. Linseed oil is prefer-\nable, as it acts to some extent as a wood filler,\nfilling the pores and thus aiding the painting-,\nwhich follows in its proper place. Some manu-\nfacturers oil all their white hickory stock before\nshipping. Lumber World\nWood, Preservation of. 1. The im-\nproved I rench method of preserving wood by\nthe application of lime is found to work well.\nThe plan is to pile the planks in a tank, and to\nput over all a layer of quicklime, which is\ngradually slaked with water. Timber for mines\nrequires about a week to be thoroughly impreg-\nnated, and other wood more or less time, ac-\ncording to its thickness. The material acquires\nremarkable consistence and hardness, it is\nstated, on being subjected to this simple pro-\ncess, and the assertion is made that it will never\nrot. Beechwood prepared in this way for\nhammers and other tools for iron work is found\nto acquire the hardness of oak, without parting\nwith any of its well known elasticity or tough-\nness, and it also lasts longer.— Amer. Building\nNews.\n2. Dry Rot, to Preserve from. The best\nway to preserve a timber exposed to the action\nof the weather is to force into the pores of well\nseasoned wood as much carbolic acid, or creo-\nsote, as possible. This soon resinifies, and most\neffectually prevents the timber from dry rot\nand decay. On a large scale, as for railway\nsleepers, expensive appliances are needed but\nfor barns or outbuilding, it may be applied to\nconsiderable advantage by the use of a paint\nbrush.\n3. Burnettizing.— A solution of 1 lb. chloride\nof zinc to 4 gal. water for timber, and 1 lb.\nchloride of zinc to 5 gal. water for canvas, cor-\ndage, etc., in a wooden tank. These were the\nproportions originally specified; 1 lb. of the\nsalt to 9 or 10 gal. water, are now more fre-\nquently used. Timber requires to be immersed\nfor about two days for each in. in thickness,\nand afterward taken out and left to dry for\nabout fourteen to ninety days. Canvas, ropes,\netc., require to be immersed in the solution for\nabout forty-eight hours, then taken out and\ndried. The process on wood may be more ex-\npeditiously performed by forcing the solution\ninto the pores with a pressure of 150 lb. to the\nsq. in. The advantage of this process is that it\nrenders the material to which it is applied\nincombustible.\n4. Kyanizing.— The timber is immersed in a sat-\nurated solution of corrosive sublimate (bichlo-\nride of mercury) in a wooden tank, put together\nso that no metal of any kind can come in con-\ntact with the solution. One lb. corrosive sub-\nlimate to 10 gal. water is used when a maxi-\nmum strength is required, and 1 lb. to 15 gal.\nwater when a minimum, according to the por-\nosity of the timber; with the latter proportion,\nV/% lb. will be sufficient for a load of timber of\n50 cub. ft. Corrosive sublimate dissolves best\nin tepid water. The time required to saturate\nthe timber depends on its thickness; twenty-\n624 Wood.\nfour hours are usually allowed for each in. in\nthickness for boards and small timber; large\ntimber requires two to three weeks.\n5. Payne s. —Impregnating the wood, while\nin a vacuum, with a strong solution of sul-\nphate of iron, and afterward forcing into the\ntimber a solution of sulphate of lime, or any of\nthe alkaline carbonates, such as carbonate of\nsoda, by which means the oxide of iron be-\ncomes insoluble. The wood is also rendered in-\ncombustible by this process.\n6. To Preserve Woodworks that are Exposed\nto Damp.— For those of an extensive nature,\nsuch as bridges, etc. The Hollanders use for\nthe preservation of their sluices and flood-\ngates, drawbridges and other huge beams of\ntimber exposed to the sun and constant changes\nof the atmosphere, a certain mixture of pitch\nand tar, upon which they strew small pieces of\nshell broken finely— almost to a powder— and\nmixed with sea sand, and the scales of iron,\nsmall and sifted, which incrusts and preserves\nit effectually.\n7. A paint composed of sub-sulphate of iron\n(the refuse of the copperas pans), ground up\nwith any common oil and thinned with coal\ntar oil, having a little pitch dissolved in it, is\nflexible, and impervious to moisture.\n8. Linseed oil and tar, in equal parts, well\nboiled together, and used while boiling, rubbed\nplentifully over the work while hot, after be-\ning scorched all over by wood burnt under it,\nstrikes in. or more into the wood, closes the\npores, and makes it hard and durable either\nunder or out of water.\n9. For fences and similar works, a coating of\ncoal tar, sanded over or boil together 1 gal-\ncoal tar and 2,% lb. white copperas, and lay it\non hot.\n10. To prevent rot. Thoroughly season the\nwood before fixing, and when fixed, have a\nproper ventilation all round it.\n11. Charring, after seasoning, will fortify\ntimber against infection so will a coating of\ncoal tar.\n1;}. To Cure Incipient Dry Rot— If very much\ninfected, remove the timber, and replace with\nnew.\n13. A pure solution of corrosive sublimate in\nwater, in the proportion of 1 oz, to 1 gal., used\nhot, is considered a very effectual wash.\n14. A solution of sulphate of copper, y% lb.\nper gal. of water, laid on hot.\n15. A strong solution of sulphate of iron\nthis is not so good as sulphate of copper.\n16. A strong- solution of sulphates of iron\nand copper in equal parts, lb. of the sul-\nphates to gal. water.\n17. Paraffin oil, the commonest and cheapest\nnaphtha and oil, or a little resinous matter dis-\nsolved and mixed with oil, will stay the wet\nrot.\n18. Remove the parts affected, and wash with\ndilute sulphuric acid the remaining wood-\nwork.\n19. Dissolve 1 lb. sulphate of copper in 1 gal.\nboiling water, then add V/i lb. sulphuric acid in\n6 gal. water, and apply hot.\n20. To Prevent Worms in Timber.— Anointing\nwith an oil produced by the immersion of sul-\nphur in aquafortis (nitric acid) distilled to dry-\nness, and exposed to dissolve in the air.\n21. Soaking in an infusion of quassia renders\nthe wood bitter.\n22. Creosoting timber if the smell is not ob-\njectionable.\n23. Anointing the timber with oil of spike, ju-\nniper or turpentine, is efficacious in some\ndegree.\n24. For small articles, cover freely with copal\nvarnish, in linseed oil.\n25. To Prevent Worms in Marine Building.—\nA mixture of lime, sulphur, and colocynth\nwith pitch.\n26. Saturating the pores with coal tar, either\nalone or after a solution of corrosive sublim-\nate has been soaked and dried into the wood.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0644.jp2"},"637":{"fulltext":"Wood.\n625\nWood.\n27. Sheathing with thin copper over tarred\nfelt is esteemed the best protection for the\nbottoms of ships for all marine animals the\njoints should be stopped with tarred oakum.\n28. Studding- the parts under water with\nshort broad-headed nails.\n29. To Destroy Worms in Carvings.— Fumigate\nthe wood with benzine.\n30. Saturate the wood with a strong solution\nof corrosive sublimate if used for carvings,\nthe color should be restored by ammonia, and\nthen by a weak solution of hydrochloric acid\nthe holes may be stopped up with gum and\ngelatine, and a varnish of resin dissolved in\n90$ alcohol should afterward be applied to\nthe surface.\n31. Whale oil and poisonous ointments have\nbeen found of service. The wood should be\ncarefully brushed before being operated upon.\n32. To Destroy Ants and Insects in Wood.—\nCorrosive sublimate is an effectual poison to\nthem.\n33. Oils, especially essential oils, are good\npreventives.\n34. Cajeput oil has been proved effectual for\ndestroying the red ant.\n35. Payne s, Bethell s, and Burnett s processes\nare said to be proof against the white ant of\nIndia.\n36. Dust the parts with pounded quicklime,\nand then water them with the ammoniacal\nliquor of gas works, when the ammonia will be\ninstantly disengaged by the quicklime, and\nthis is destructive to insect life.\n37. For the black ant, use powdered borax\nor smear the parts frequented by them with\npetroleum oil or syringe their nests with fluo-\nric acid or spirits of tar, to be done with a\nleaden syringe or pour down the holes boiling-\nwater to destroy their nests, and then stop up\nthe holes with cement. Ants dislike arsenic,\ncamphor and creosote. Britton.\n38. Nicholson, noting that railway sleepers\nlying on ground which had formerly been the\nbed of a salt lake, in Nebraska, retained their\npower to resist decay for an unusually long\nperiod, and showed an excess of alkaline salts\nin their ash, suggests that here is a cheap and\neffective preservative.\n39. Lostal, a French railway contractor,\nrecommends the use of quicklime for preserv-\ning timber. He puts the planks in tanks and\ncovers them with quicklime, which is gradually\nslaked with water. Timber, such as is used in\nmines, takes about a week to become thorough-\nly impregnated. The wood acquires a remark-\nable hardness and toughness, and, it is said,\nwill never rot. Beechwood has been prepared\nin this way for hammers and other tools in\nseveral ironworks, and is reported to have been\nas hard as oak, without losing its peculiar\nelasticity.\n40. Wood will be effectually preserved from\nthe action of the air if it is covered by a paint\nbrush with -a solution of persulphate of iron,\nmarking 2° to 2J^° B. The blue tint which is\ndeveloped by drying changes to brown when\na coat of linseed oil is laid on— Revue Indust.\n41. Lay timber up, when perfectly dry, in an\nairy place, that it may not be exposed to the\nsun or wind, and taking care that it does not\nstand upright, but let it be laid along, one\npiece upon another, interposing here and there\nsome short blocks, to prevent that mouldiness\nwhich is usually contracted when planks sweat.\nLay planks in a stream of running water for a\nfortnight, and then set them up in the sun and\nwind, so that the air may freely pass between\nthem, and turn them frequently. Boards thus\nseasoned will floor much better than those\nwhich have been kept in a dry place for many\nyears. Elm, felled ever so green, if kept for\nfour or five days, obtains a good seasoning and\nis rendered fit for immediate use. This water\nseasoning is not only a remedy against the\nworm, but also prevents distortions and warp-\ning. Where huge massy columns are to be used,\nit is a good plan to bore them through from\nend to end, as it prevents their splitting. Tim-\nbers occasionally laid in mortar, or any part\ncontiguous to lime, have sometimes been cap-\nped with melted pitch as a preserver from the\ndestructive powers of lime; but it has been\nfound to be rather hurtful than otherwise.\n42. For the purpose of preserving timber for\nmines, Koug packs the timber, cut in proper\nlengths, in a vertical position in an iron reser-\nvoir, provided with a tight fitting cover. The\nvessel is then filled to about three-fourths of\nits capacity with a solution of the cai-bolate of\nsoda. Into this he leads live steam, which\nspeedily brings the liquid to the boiling point.\nThe access of the steam is continued until, by\nits gradual condensation, it has filled the vessel\nto its full capacity. The wood is then allowed\nto remain in the hot liquid some hours; this is\ndrawn off, and the wood washed off with a dry\nsteam jet.\n43. Hock dissolves paraffin in ligroin, so-\ncalled petroleum ether, kerosene or other con-\nvenient substances, and immerses the wood to\nbe preserved in the solution, care being taken\nthat the wood is as dry as possible. After im-\npregnation, the saturated wood is heated in a\nlarge retort provided with a condensing ar-\nrangement, whereby the volatile solvent is\nexpelled and condensed for use over again,\nwhile the paraffin is left in the pores of the\ntimber. Crude paraffin (containing much li-\nquid hydrocarbons) may be employed.\n44. At Bellagio, on the lake of Como, where\noliye wood is used in large quantities for the\nformation of various articles of turnery, the\nplan adopted for seasoning the wood is to boil\nit for about ten minutes, and then let it dry\ngradually for months before using it.\n45. The best preservative against dry rot,\naccording to the Ameriean Journal of Phar-\nmacy, is the following\nOil of cassia 1 part.\nWood tar 1 part.\nTrain oil 1 part.\nApply 3 coats on the reverse sides and on the\nends of planks, floors, etc. In all probability\noil of cassia plays the chief role as preserva-\ntive.\n46. During the excavation of a canal in Ber-\nlin, the workmen struck upon 12 perfectly pre-\nserved coffins, which lay apparently in 4\ngraves, each containing 3 superimposed coffins.\nThe site of the discovery corresponds with the\ncemetery that existed even as late as 1620 in\nconnection with the poor house and pestilent\nhospital. The corpses must in consequence\nhave been in the earth for at least 260 years.\nNotwithstanding this long period, the coffins,\nas well as their contained bones, are in a per-\nfect state of preservation; articles of clothing\nhave even been found still clinging to some of\nthe bones. Prof. Virchow found upon inves-\ntigation that the coffins were coated on both\nsides with a thick layer of tar, the wood itself\nappearing to be young oak, 1 inch in thickness.\nA silicious crust was likewise found on the\ninner side of the coffins. The wood is so hard\nthat axes and saws were broken in the attempt\nto cut it.\n47. Jacques first impregnates the timber thor-\noughly with a simple solution of soap mixed\nwith an acid— preferably phenic acid. This\ncauses the formation in a few days, within the\nwood, of a fatty acid, which is insoluble in\nwater, and impregnates the remotest fibers.\nThe reaction of the acid on the soap does not\ntake place until a portion of the water has\nevaporated. It is claimed that more perfect\nimpregnation can be had in this way than with\ncreosote, and there is no danger of the wash-\ning out of the preservative from the exposed\nsurfaces, as when sulphate of copper is used.\nThe government commission on technical rail-\nroad operation in France is said to favor this\nprocess.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0645.jp2"},"638":{"fulltext":"Wood.\n626\nWood.\n48. Card impregnates the wood with a solu-\ntion of zinc chloride or other antiseptic soluble\nmineral salt, then dries the outer layers of the\nwood by heated air currents, and finally satu-\nrates with hot creosote oil. The creosote oil is\nto prevent the soluble antiseptic from being-\nwashed out.\n49. Richard uses common salt, in a chemically\npure crystallized form, as the most efficacious\npreservative of timber. In combination with\nalum, absolute incombustibility, it is said, can\nbe insured by its use.— Revue Indust.\n50. The well known methods of preserving-\nposts and wood which are partly embedded in\nthe earth, by charring and coating with tar are\nonly effective when both are applied. Should\nthe poles only be charred without the subse-\nquent treatment with tar, the charcoal forma-\ntion on the surface would act as an absorber of\nthe moisture, and, if anything, only hasten the\ndecay. By applying a coating of tar without\npreviously charring, the tar would only form a\ncasing about the wood, nor would it penetrate\nto the depth which the absorbing properties of\nthe charcoaled surface wound insure. Wood\nthat is exposed to the action of water or let in-\nto the ground should first be charred, and then\nbefore it has entirely cooled be treated with tar\ntill the wood is thoroughly impregnated. The\nacetic acid and oils contained in the tar are\nevaporated by the heat, and only the resin is\nleft behind, which penetrates the pores of the\nwood and forms an airtight and waterproof\nenvelope. It is important to impregnate the\npoles a little above the line of exposure, for\nhere it is that the action of decay affects the\nwood first, and where the break always occurs\nwhen removed from the earth or strained in\ntesting.— (Ind. Blatt.)\n51. Muller employs for the preservation of\nwood the phosphate of baryta formed within\nthe fiber. The wood is first steeped in a solu-\ntion of the phosphate of soda containing 7% of\nthe salt. When dry, the wood is again treated\nwith a solution of chloride of barium contain-\ning 13%.\n52. Leech takes 1 lb. arsenious acid and dis-\nsolves it in 4 gal. water; to this he adds lib.\ncarbonate of soda, stirring the mixture till it is\nthoroughly dissolved. In a separate vessel he\nmakes a solution of 16 lb. sulphate of copper in\n16 gal. water, mixes the solutions together, and\nplaces them in a wooden or lead lined vat. The\ntimber is placed in this bath, and the solution\nheated by means of steam to the boiling point.\nA few hours soaking is said to be sufficient,\nbut when heat is not applied the wood must re-\nmain for at least two or three days. These solu-\ntions are applicable to wood that is already in\npermanent position, as telegraph poles, fences,\nand gEftes. In these and similar cases one solu-\ntion should be painted on and allowed to dry\nbefore the other is applied. When possible,\nthey should be laid on hot.\n53. Mewburn s process, so far as oak is con-\ncerned, consists simply in boiling the wood in a\nsolution of gallo-tannic acid, the proportions\nof the respective ingredients being apparently\nimmaterial. The result is the formation of an in-\nsoluble substance in the pores of the wood. One\nsolution only is necessary for oak, on account\nof the tannin naturally present in that wood,\nthe endurance of which in moist situations is\nproverbial. A consideration of this fact led\nHatzfeld to try the effect of impregnating\ntimber with tannin, and afterward with ace-\ntate of iron, a process which is both cheap and\nuseful, and which is at present being tested by\na telegraph company in France.\n54. Posts and pier piles can be rendered near-\nly indestructible by boring one or more holes,\nlarger or smaller, in the center of the butt, the\nwhole length if desirable then fill with boiling\ncoal tar and close the aperture with a long\ntaper wedge, well driven home, which will give\npressure to force the antiseptic into the inner\nheart pores of the mould. Were posts thus pre-\nserved, and the exterior surface dressed with\nresin varnish, they would last for centuries.\nWood exposed to the air should not be dressed\nwith coal tar, but Stockholm tar or resinous\nvarnish the former will rot the fibers when ex-\nposed to sun and air. Mark the posts at 6 or\nin. above the depth they are to be placed in the\nearth, and bore the hole up to the mark. Then\nfill in with boiling coal tar, plug up the hole,\nand the base of the post will outlast the upper\npart. The writer has also had occasion to stand\nposts under floor joists, as a support, when, by\nmaking a clay puddled hole, and pouring into it\na gallon of boiling coal tar as a bed for the post\nto stand in, it would never decay.— English Me-\nchanic.\n55. Wood is rendered extremely durable and\nweatherproof by covering it with hot linseed\noil varnish, several coats being applied, each\none after the preceding one is dry; finally oil\ncolors are applied as required. The drying re-\nquires a longer time than the ordinary process\nof painting.— Dinglev^s Polytech. Jl.\n56. The following recipe is said to be a cure\nfor dry rot Melt 12 oz. rosin in an iron pot,\nadd 3 gal. train oil and 3 or 4 rolls brimstone:\nwhen it is thin add Spanish brown or red and\nyellow ocher, or what color preferred; put on\nthe wood hot and thin with a brush; give two\ncoats.\n57. Villain Co., of Berlin, manufacture,,\nunder the name of mycothanation, a product\nwhich has the property of destroying dry rot\nin houses and other buildings and preventing\nits appearance in new ones. It may also be\nemployed with advantage in seasoning railway\nsleepers, telegraph posts, beams, etc., which it\neffectually preserves from decay. Tt is a clear\nliquid, containing no poisonous or disagree-\nably smelling substance. Its presence in the\natmosphere is good for the health, as it de-\nstroys miasma and ferment. Lastly, wood\nimpregnated with it does not easily catch fire,\nwhich has been repeatedly proved. It requires\nboiling in a cast iron boiler, and in this state is\nto be spread over the surfaces covered with\ndry rot by means of a large brush. During the\nboiling the boiler must be kept carefully closed.\nWood which is to be impregnated with it must\nbe first cleaned. The efflorescence of masonry\nmay be prevented by smearing the walls with\nthis liquid. In old buildings the efflorescence\nshould be first scraped, and after a layer of the\nliquid has been put on, the walls can be re-\nstored. Pract. Mag.\n58. Melsens impregnated blocks of wood with\ntar by alternate heatings and coolings; they\nwere then kept two years in a corner of a gar-\nden in earth saturated with the products of a\nurinal, and were unaltered; on breaking across\nit was found that lines were noticeable where\nthe tar had not penetrated completely; the one\nset of split halves were kept some years in\nordinary earth, the others carefully preserved;\nthey were then steamed at 212° F. (100° C), for\ntwelve hours, quickly cooled in water, frozen,\nand left out in the open air all winter, at the\nend of which time they were unaltered. They\nwere then placed in a wet situation in a garden,\nthen on an isolated building, and then in sandy\nsoil under a rain water tub. Finally, after\ntwenty years 1 exposure to varied deteriorating\nagencies, no change whatever was produced in\nthem. By utilizing the mechanical force of\ncondensing steam, or of the atmosphere, wood\nmay be whoUy or partially injected with tar,\nor other preservative agents; when not pre-\nserved, the natural course of decay is along\nthe direction of growth, and not across it; the\ndirection in which the preservative body is\nforced into the wood is the same. When the\nwood is only superficially injected it is desir-\nable that it should be shaped into the required\nform before applying the preservative process.\nMoniteur QuesneviUe.\n59. The value of creosote as a wood preserver\nis generally recognized, but the direct injection","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0646.jp2"},"639":{"fulltext":"Wood.\n627\nAV ringers.\nrequires great quantities of heavy oil and a\ndesiccation of the injected pores. The high\nboiling point of creosote does not permit its\nemployment in vapor. Blythe formed the idea\nof saturating a jet of steam with creosote in\nminute division, forming, so to speak, a gase-\nous emulsion. The apparatus comprises a\nhigh pressure steam boiler; another boiler con-\ntaining creosote, in which the steam is satu-\nrated a vat, filled with creosote, to be pumped\ninto the boiler; sheet iron cylinders, for the\npieces which are to be injected and a system\nof tubing connecting the several parts. In\nthis way Blythe completely fills the heart of\noak, pine, or red beech he uses 4 to 6 lb. of\ncreosote for a cross tie, and 4 lb. of brown\nphenic acid per cubic yard of saturated wood\nor cross ties. The apparatus can prepare 500\nties per day. The wood comes out softened, so\nthat it can readily be bent or shaped, but it\nrapidly hardens. At first it shrinks, but after a\nfew weeks it becomes seasoned, and resists the\ninfluences of moisture. Finally, the fibers are\ngreatly strengthened.\n60. Krug employs the following simple prepar-\nation for preserving wood used in mines by a\ncombination of creosote and soda An iron\nbasin, in. thick, about 6)4 ft. deep, and 4 ft.\nin diameter, is sunk in the ground rather more\nthan half its depth. By the side, and with its\nrim below the bottom of the first basin, is a\nsecond, not quite half its size. A third basin,\nabout midway between the other two in size,\nstands with its lower edge rather higher than\nthe upper rim of the first basin. This first one\nis provided with a cover, half of which is\nscrewed on the other half may be opened or\nshut close. Above the bottom it has a sieve bot-\ntom of wire gauze, and at the bottom a dis-\ncharge cock. Moreover, a pipe goes to the\nbottom, through which steam can be directly\nconveyed. From beneath the upper edge a\npipe passes over the edge into the second basin.\nIn the second basin is a hand forcing pump for\npumping the impregnating fluid into the third\nbasin, which is furnished with a discharge cock.\nThe operation is as follows The pieces of\nwood to be impregnated are cut to the suitable\nlengths required for door posts, lintels, piles,\netc., and placed pex-pendicularly, as closely as\npossible together, in the first basin, the cover\nof which is then closed. It is not necessary\nthat the cover should be air tight. Meanwhile\nthe third basin has been filled with creosote\nsoda lye, either directly or out of the second\nbasin, by means of the hand pump. The lye is\nthen admitted into the first basin till it is about\nM full, and then steam is conveyed directly\nthrough the pipe mentioned before to the lye.\nThe fluid gradually begins to boil, while it is in-\ncreased by the condensation water of the steam\nwhich pours in, and at last begins to flow away\nthrough the pipe which passes over the edge\nof the second basin. The steam is then turned\noff, and the wood may be left to boil for some\ntime in the lye. When at last the lye has been\ndischarged, and the wood been acted upon by\ndirect steam, the cover of the basin is opened,\nand the impregnated wood removed. Although\nwood treated in this way is penetrated\nwith the impregnating fluid only to the depth\nof 14 in. to M in., it has been found perfectly\nunimpaired after five years in districts where\nwood not so treated rots and becomes unfit for\nuse after nine or twelve months. Above\nground and in places where there is no danger\nof fire, it is sufficient to pour creosote oil over\nthe wood. In a few days the wood will be suffi-\nciently penetrated to withstand the action of\nthe weather.— Stummer l s Ingenieur.\n61. The following method of preserving gar-\nden labels is recommended in a German paper\nThoroughly soak them in a strong solution\nof copperas (sulphate of iron), then, after\nbeing dried, lay them in lime water. This\ncauses the formation in the wood of calcium\nsulphate, a very insoluble salt. The rapid\ndestruction of labels by exposure to the\nweather is thus, it is said, prevented. Bast,.\nmats, twine, and other substances used in tying\nup or covering trees and piants, when treated\nin the same manner, are similarly preserved.\nAt a recent meeting of a horticultural society\nin Berlin, wooden labels treated thus were ex-\nhibited, and although they had been continually\nexposed for two years, they were apparently\nin no way affected.\n62. Paulet compares the relative advantages\nof copper sulphate and creosote. As regards\nthe former preservative, this salt is poisonous\nto the vegetable and animal parasites which\nappear at the beginning of all organic decom-\nposition. The quantity of salts of copper\nshould be excessive when the wood is intended\nto be immersed in water or buried in a moist\nsoil, because the water dissolves this salt slowly;\nand since sea water enters into combination\nwith it still more rapidly, it should be excluded\nfrom use for wood used in the sea. There is,\nin wood inpregnated with the salts of copper,\na portion of the sulphate closely united with\nthe ligneous tissue, and another portion in ex-\ncess remaining free. The latter portion dis-\nsolves first, and, carried off by the exterior\nfluids, only retards the loss of the metallic salt\ncombined with the wood; but this combination\nitself, although more stable, does not escape\nremoval, being accelerated or retarded accord-\ning to the rapidity and ease with which the\ndissolving liquid is renewed. On the contrary,,\nthe quantity of metallic salts should be dimin-\nished in wood intended for constructions in\nthe open air, in order to prevent the mechani-\ncal effect of intra- vascular crystallizations. As\nregards creosote oil, it is beyond doubt that\nthe petroleum products, containing phenic\nacid, are preferable to the metallic salts for\nwood exposed to sea water, because naphtha-\nlene, and especially phenic acid, exert ah anti-\nseptic action, coagulate the albumen, and thus\nobstruct the circulation of the sap or blood of\nparasites. The volatility and the solubility of\nthese preservative agents would render their\nantiseptic action temporary only, if the more\nfixed and thicker oils which accompany them\ndid not inclose and retain the preceding sub-\nstances, at the same time obstructing all the\npores of the wood, and rendering difficult the\naccess of dissolving liquids and destructive\ngases. On the other hand, grave objections\nhave been raised, from a practical point of\nview, either because of the restricted produc-\ntion of these oils, which is not sufficient for a\ngeneral use of them, or because the wood thus\nimpregnated offers great danger from fire,\nthis wood, once on fire, being unextinguish-\nable; on the other hand, sulphate of copper,\nlike all the metallic salts, renders wood unin-\nflammable.— Pract. Mag.\nWood, to Stain. See Staining.\nWool, to Dye. See Dyeing.\nWringers, to Fasten Rolls on.— 1. Clean\nshaft thoroughly between the shoulders or\nwashers, where the rubber goes on.\n2. Give shaft a coat of copal varnish, between\nthe shoulders, and let it dry.\n3. Give shaft coat of varnish and wind shaft\ntightly as possible with 5 ply jute twine at once,\nwhile varnish is green, and let it dry for about\nsix hours.\n4. Give shaft over the twine a coat of rubber\ncement, and let it dry for about six hours.\n5. Give shaft over the twine a second coat of\nrubber cement, and let it dry for about six\nhours.\n6 Remove washer on the short end of shaft,\nalso the cogwheel if the shaft has cogs on both\nends.\n7. See that the rubber rolls are always longer\nthan the space between the washers where the\nrubber goes on, as they shrink or take up a\nlittle in putting on the shaft.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0647.jp2"},"640":{"fulltext":"Wrinkles.\n628\nYeast,\n8. Clean out the hole or inside of roll with\nbenzine, using- a small brush or swab.\n9. Put the thimblo or pointer on the end of\nshaft that the washer has been removed from,\nand give shaft over the twine and thimble an-\nother coat of cement, and stand same upright\nin a vise.\n10. Give the inside or hole of roll a coat of\ncement with a small rod or stick.\n11. Pull or force the roll on the shaft as quick-\nly as possible with a jerk, then rivet the washer\non with a cold chisel.\n12. Let roll stand and get dry for two or three\ndays before using same. Cement for use should\nbe so thick that it will run freely; if it gets too\nthick, thin it with benzine or naphtha.\nWrinkles.— Wrinkles caused by facial con-\ntractions cannot be removed while their cause\ncontinues in operation. Withering and puck-\nering of skin, the result of years, may be reme-\ndied by\nAlum 1 drm.\nGlycerine 1 oz.\nWater 1 pt.\nTo be used three times daily as a wash; or—\nGlycerine 2 drm.\nTannin 1 drm.\nRectified spirit 1 drm.\nWater 4 oz.\nTo be used as a wash three times daily. These\nwashes are astringent, and they do no harm,\nwhereas, some of the much vaunted lotions\nsold by the perfumers are most injurious if\nused for any length of time.\nThe skin should be frequently bathed in cold\nwater, and rubbed vigorously with the towel\nafterward.\nWriting. To Restore Burned.— Separate\nthe charred leaves carefully, go with them\nin a room where no daylight can enter,\nlight your gas, lamp or candle, and place each\nleaf in a solution of 40 grn. of nitrate of silver\nto each oz. of water, watch it, and you will\nsoon see the writing legible. If satisfactory,\ntake out the leaf and wash the excess of silver\nsolution out by means of rain water; then fix\nthe leaf with a dilute solution of hyposulphite\nof soda, as if it were a photograph, and you\nwill be able to read every word on the page\nwhich is not so far destroyed that it will not\nhang together.\n1. Writing (see also Manuscripts) effaced\nby chlorine can be restored by exposing it to\nthe vapor of ammonium sulphide.\n2. Dip into a solution of the sulphide.\n3. Immerse the paper in a solution of ferro-\ncyanide of potassium, 5 pt.; water, 85 parts.\nSlightly acidulate with sulphuric acid.\nWriting Falsified. Gobert has found that,\nif writing is ever so carefully scratched out,\nthere are still left sufficient traces of the oxide\nof iron in the ink to become visible in a photo-\ngraphic copy. Light reflected from paper that\nhas not been written on acts in a different way\non the photographic materials from that reflect-\ned from places which have been once covered\nwith ink. By this means the genuineness or\notherwise of a document can always be ascer-\ntained.— Stummer^ Ingenieur.\nWriting Fluid. See Inks.\nWriting on Glass. See Glass.\nWriting, to Restore on Parchment.— Moisten\nthe ink with a strong aqueous solution of tan-\nnic acid.\nProcess for Copying Very Old Writings.— St.\nVictor.— Wet ordinary copying paper with a\nthin solution of glucose or honey, instead of\nwater. Put in a copying press, and when\ntaken out, expose to the fumes of strong am-\nmonia. This brings out clearly lines otherwise\nalmost illegible.\nTo Make New Writing Look Old.— Infuse 14\ndrm. saffron in J4 Pt- ink. Warm over a moder-\nate fire. It will cause whatever is written with\nit to turn yellow, and appear as if of many\nyears 1 standing.\nTo Revive Old Writing.— 1. Brush the writing\nover with potassium sulpho-cyanide and water\n(T20). While tame expose to fumes of hot hy-\ndrochloric acid.\n2. Wash with very weak hydrochloric acid,\nthen apply infusion of galls.\n3. If writing has been exposed to sea water,\nwash well and soak in gallic acid solution, 3\ngrn., to 1 oz. water.\n4. If No. 3 does not make writing legible\nenough, soak in a solution of protosulphate of\niron, 10 grn., to 1 oz. water.\nWriting, to Transfer, See Transferring\nTfeast, without Ferment.— Boll peck\nmalt in 3 qt. water pour off 2 qt., keep in a\nwarm place 30 hours; add 4 qt. of a similar de-\ncoction, and stir well; again ferment, repeat\nthe addition of 4 qt. until sufficient yeast is\nobtained.\nYeast, Brewer s.— Brewer s yeast is pre-\npared as follows 72 lb. unkilned malt and a\nhandful of hops are gradually stirred in a clean\ntub containing 7 gal. of water of 170° F.; and to\nthis 5)4 gal. water of 200° are added. The tub\nis then covered tightly and left quiet. After\nsome time it is cooled rapidly. This is accom-\nplished by setting in cans filled with cold water.\nWhen the temperature of the mash has reached\n70°, the tub is covered again and allowed to\nstand for some twelve hours longer, when lj^j\ngal. fresh beer yeast are to be stirred in. After\nanother twelve hours have elapsed, pierce a\nhole in the layer formed by the husks of the\nmalt and dip 3 gal. of the liquor beneath, then\nstir the whole up and dip 1% gal. from it (husks\nand liquor). This is the mother leaven, from\nwhich yeast can be generated all the year round\nby using it in the way described instead of the\nordinary beer leaven. To the remainder in the\ntub add 5 gal. wort of 90°, and make use of it\nwithin two hours. The mother yeast also must\nbe used the same day for fermenting another\nportion.\nYeast, to Preserver The thick portion of\nthe yeast is filled into a champagne bottle, and\non top of it is poured about in. of olive oil.\nThe bottle is then closed by tying a bladder\nover its top, and in order to protect it from\nexplosion a pin is put through the bladder.\nSo the yeast will keep well for a long time if\nstored in a cold place.\n2. Yeast, if mixed with about pure glycer-\nine, also keeps well for some time if in a cool\nplace.— Chem. Rev.\n3. The raw yeast is carefully washed with\ncold water, afterward the greater part of the\nwater is removed by pressure a further pro-\nportion is got rid of by means of a centrifugal\napparatus. But as the yeast cannot be got\nperfectly dry in this way, it is afterward\nplaced for that purpose in an apparatus in\nwhich a vacuum, or rarefaction of the air\nnearly approaching a vacuum, can be obtained.\nIn this chamber, the moisture, still combined\nwith the yeast, evaporates at a very low degree\nof heat, and the vapor formed is immediately\nabsorbed by hygroscopic substances introduced\nfor the purpose— as, for example, chloride of\nlime. The yeast is finally exposed to a current\nof air in its ordinary state or dried, or of car-\nbonic acid gas, according to the prevailing tem-\nperature and other circumstances. Through\nthese manipulations a perfectly dry powder is\nfinally obtained, which, being hermetically\nsealed in glass or tin cases, will keep perfectly\nwell for several months. When required to be\nused, the powder is mixed with water to the\nconsistency of a thin paste, which acts in the\nsame way as fresh yeast.— J ever sen and Boldt.\nYeast (Vienna.)— Indian corn, barley and\nrye (all sprouting) are powdered and mixed,\nand then macerated in water at a temperature\nof from 149° to 167° Fah. Saccharification\ntakes place in a few hours, when the liquor is","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0648.jp2"},"641":{"fulltext":"Zapon,\n629\nZincs.\nracked off and allowed to clear, and fermenta-\ntion is set up by the help of a minute quantity\nof any ordinary yeast. Carbonic acid is disen-\ngaged during the process with so much rapidity\nthat the globules of yeast are thrown up by\nthe gas, and remain floating on the surface,\nwhere they form a thick scum The latter is\ncarefully removed, and constitutes the best\nand purest yeast, which, when drained and com-\npressed in a hydraulic press, can be kept from\neight to fifteen days, according to the season.\nZapon. See Lacquers.\nZinc, Amalgam, See Amalgams.\nZinc, Amalgamation of. See Zincs\nbelow.\nZinc,\nMetals.\nZinc,\nZinc,\nZinc,\nZinc,\nto Blacken. See Blacking.\nto Clean. See Cleansing.\nEtching on. See Etching.\nFluxes for. See Fluxes.\nw to Tin.— Make, a bath of distilled\nwater, 1 gal.; pyrophosphate of soda, 334 oz.;\nfused protochloride of tin, y% oz. A thin coat of\ntin can be obtained by simply dipping the zinc\nin the bath, and one of any thickness by the\naid of the battery.\nZinc, Writing on.— Mix verdigris, 1 part;\nsal ammoniac, 1 chimney black, or any mineral\ncolor, water, 10 stir well or shake the bot-\ntle before employing, and use a quill, not a\nsteel pen, for writing. This ink is a poison.\n2. Get a lemon, squeeze the juice out of it\ninto a pot, and put into it an old copper half-\npenny or farthing, not the present bronze\ncoin. Let it stand for a day or two. Write with\na quill pen.\n3. Dissolve 100 grs. of chloride of platinum\nin a pint of water. A little mucilage and lamp-\nblack may be added.\nZinc, to Color.— Puscher employs acetate\nof lead for this purpose. On applying this sub-\nstance, mixed with a minium preparation, a\nreddish brown tinge is obtained. The cupola of\nthe synagogue at Nuremberg was thus color-\ned, as an experiment, a long time ago, and to\nall appearance is yet unaffected by the\nweather. By adding other bases, lighter or\ndarker tints of gray and yellow may be ob-\ntained, giving the zinc work the appearance of\ncarved stone. With a solution of chlorate of\ncopper the preparation turns the sheets of\nzinc— Iron.\nZincographic Etching. See Etching.\nZincs, Amalgamation of.— This is ac-\ncomplished in several ways.—\n1. By dipping the zinc in dilute sulphuric\nacid and then dipping the end of it into a small\nquantity of mercury, after rubbing the sur-\nface with a brush.\n2. Dissolve 1 lb. of mercury in 5 lb. of nitro-\nmuriatic acid (nitric acid 1 part, muriatic acid\n3 parts), heat the solution gently to hasten the\naction. When a complete solution of the mer-\ncury is effected, add 5 lb. more of nitro-muri-\natic acid. The solution should be applied with\na brush, as immersing the zinc in it is wasteful.\n3. To the bichromate solution commonly\nused in batteries, add to every pint of solution\n1 drm. of bisulphate of mercury or a similar\namount of nitrate of mercury (mercury dis-\nsolved in nitric acid). By employing this\nmethod, the amalgamation of the zincs is main-\ntained continuously after the first amalgama-\ntion, which must be accomplished by method\n1 or 2.\n1. In the Bunsen, Grove, or Fuller battery the\namalgamation may be accomplished by placing\na small quantity of mercury in the cells con-\ntaining the zincs.\n5. Place a little mercury in a saucer with\nsome dilute sulphuric acid. Dip the zincs into\ndilute acid. Then with a little strip of zinc or\ngalvanized iron touch the mercury under the\nacid and rub it on the zinc. This will transfer a\nlittle to the surface, and a few minutes 1 rub-\nbing will make the zincs as bright as silver. A\nvery small globule of mercury is enough for a\nsingle plate.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0649.jp2"},"642":{"fulltext":"","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0650.jp2"},"643":{"fulltext":"APPENDIX.\nPart I. Additional Receipts.\nPart II. Tables of Weights and Measures,\nPart III. Chemical Synonyms.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0651.jp2"},"644":{"fulltext":"","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0652.jp2"},"645":{"fulltext":"APPENDIX\nPART I\nAdditional Receipts.\nAlcoliol, Secondary. A description of\nalcohol, chiefly characterized by yielding- on\noxidation, firstly, a ketone, and finally, one or\nmore acids of the acetic series, each containing\na less number of carbon atoms than the original\nalcohol.\nAlcoholate.— A crystalline substance con-\ntaining alcohol in the place of water of crys-\ntallization.\nAlkali.— A term generally applied to such\nbases as potash, soda, and ammonia.\nAluminum. A cubic inch of pure\naluminum weighs approximately one tenth of\na pound avoirdupois, being about one fourth\nthe weight of an equal bulk of pure silver.\nPure aluminum can be rolled, drawn, spun,\nstamped, engraved, burnished, polished, and\nsoldered, to the same extent and by the same\nprocesses as used on brass, with the following-\nexceptions:\nAmiealing.—A very low and even tempera-\nture should be maintained in the muffle.\nAluminum melts at about 1,300 degrees Fah-\nrenheit— a very dark red. The inexperienced\ntherefore cannot judge the proper annealing-\ntemperature by the eye alone, without danger\nof fusing the metal. When the metal has been\nheated enough to char the end of a pine stick,\nthus leaving- a black mark in the wake of the\nstick, as it is drawn across the metal, it is\nsufficiently annealed. The metal should then\nbe withdrawn from the furnace and allowed\nto cool slowly in the air. For some work, such\nas stamping and drawing, it is sometimes better\nnot to heat the metal so hot as to leave a dead\nblack mark with the stick, but just enough to\nshow a dark brown mark instead. Very thin\nsheets or wire can be annealed sufficiently for\nsome purposes in boiling water.\nDipping and Pickling.— Remove the grease\nand dirt by dipping in benzine, to whiten\naluminum, leaving on the surface a beautiful\nwhite mat; dip first in a strong hot solution of\npotash, then rinse in water and dip in undiluted\nnitric acid, 43 degrees. Then wash in water and\ndry as usual in hot sawdust.\nPolishing.— Use fine white polishing composi-\ntion or rouge, and a rag buff.\nBurnishing.— Use a bloodstone or steel burn-\nisher. For hand burnishing use either kerosene\noil or a solution composed of two table-\nspoonfuls of ground borax dissolved in about a\nquart of hot water, with a few drops of ammo-\nnia added.\nFor lathe work the burnisher should wear\nupon the finger of his left hand a piece of Can-\nton flannel, keeping it soaked with kerosene,\nand bringing it in contact with the metal, sup-\nplying a constant lubricant.\nVery fine effects can be produced by first\nburnishing or polishing the metal, and then\nstamping.it in polished dies, showing unpolished\nfigures in relief.\nScratch- Brushing.— Polish or burnish the sur-\nface, and then use a fine steel scratch-brush.\nSoldering. A special solder is necessary,\nfor which see Soldering, page 527. Cleanse the\nmetal from grease and dirt. Use for soldering\nfluid, Venetian turpentine. Place the solder\nupon the metal, with the Venetian turpentine,\nand heat gently in a blowpipe until the solder\nis melted. It will then be found to have fixed\nitself firmly to the aluminum.\nSand Castings.— Use open, but very fine sand,\nand bake the mould. Large feeding gates\nshould be provided, and the mould should be\nwell vented. Pour the metal quickly, at a\ntemperature but little above the melting point.\nUse either Taylor s or Dixon s plumbago cru-\ncibles.\nMilling, Plaiting and Turning.— Use plenty of\noil to prevent the clogging of the tool and to\nmake it cut smooth.\nPlating witho See Electro-metallurgy,\nbelow.\nAsphalt, Artificial. By heating resin\nwith sulphur to about 250° C, a reaction takes\nplace, attended by the evolution of sulphureted\nhydrogen, and leading to the formation of an\nalmost black pitchy substance containing sul-\nphur and resembling Syrian asphalt in many of\nits properties. Thus it is insoluble in alcohol,\nbut dissolves readily in chloroform and ben-\nzine and is sensitive to light in the same way as\nSyrian asphalt, for which it can be substituted\nfor photographic purposes.\nAtom.— The smallest part of an elementary\nbody which can enter into, or be expelled from,\na chemical compound.\nAtomicity.— A term applied to elements\nand compound radicals to signify their atom\nreplacing power, taking hydrogen as the unit.\nArtiad. An element whose atomicity is\nequal to an even number of hydrogen atoms.\nAromatic Group -A class of hydrocar-\nbons, chiefly characterized by containing a\ngroup of six carbon atoms in which, out of the\ntwenty-four units of atomicity, eighteen are\nsupposed to be saturated by union of carbon\nwith carbon, leaving only six open to external\nsaturation.\nBalenite.— A substitute for whalebone. It\nis composed of\nCaoutchouc 5 parts.\nBurnt magnesia 1 part.\nRuby shellac 1 part.\nArsenic trisulphide 1 part.\nSulphur 1 part.\nBase.— A compound body which is capable\nof partly or wholly neutralizing an acid to\nform a salt.\nBasicity.— A term used to express the sat-\nurating power of acids. See also Monobasic,\nDiabasic, etc.\nBattery Cells, to Remove Salts from.\n—By filling the cells with water and inverting-\nthem in a vessel of water, the salts in the bot-\ntom of the cells will be readily dissolved out.\nBells.— The following valuable information\non bells is given, as it answers many questions,\nand was furnished by a large firm of bell found-\ners, in response to the following query:\nWhat size and what weight should a bell be\nto be heard at three miles distance, or say in\nradius, counting on the wind? The height at\nwhich the bell will be situated will be about.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0653.jp2"},"646":{"fulltext":"Belting.\n634\nBelting.\nforty-five feet from the ground. The city has\na radius of three miles from the tower where\nthe bell will be located. Also taking in consid-\neration that the mean temperature is from 84°\nto 92° F. Ans. It is impossible for us to give\nany information on this subject that would be\nreliable. In fully half of the cases it depends\nupon the formation of the land surrounding\nthe building in which the bell is to be placed.\nIn a hilly locality, a bell will not be heard half\nas far as if the land were level, or nearly so.\nA bell will be heard a great deal further length-\nways of a valley than over the hills at the\nsides. It is frequently the case that bell rooms\nare lower than the surrounding buildings and\ntrees, and these obstructions break the sound\nand prevent its free passage to a distance. It\nis frequently the case, too, that towers have\nsmall windows or openings, with the louver\nboards so close together as to almost box up\nthe sound. In cities, the noise of steam\nand horse cars, manufacturing establish-\nments, carriages and carts rattling over the\npavements, etc., is so great, that bells are\nnot expected to be heard at any consider-\nable distance, and this is the reason why,\nin all cities, several bells are used for fire\nalarm purposes, it being impossible for one bell,\nno matter how large it may be, to be heard\nabove the thousand and one noises incident to\nevery large place. The largest bell ever made\nin this country weighed 22,000 lb., and, before\nit was fractured, hung on thei City Hall in New\nYork. On one or two occasions this bell was\nheard up the Hudson river thirteen miles, in\nthe night, when the city was comparatively\nquiet. Water is a good conductor of sound,\nand aided materially in making the bell heard\nas above mentioned. It is a great mistake to\nsuppose that bells can be heard in proportion\nto their weight; that is, that a bell of 2,000 lb.\nwill be heard twice as far as one of 1,000 lb.\nThis is not so, for the reason that the larger\nbell does not possess anything like twice tue\nresonant surface of the smaller one. What is\ngained and admired in the larger bell is its deep,\nmajestic, dignified tone, which it is impossible\nto secure in the smaller one, the weight of a\nbell invariably governing its tone. A bell of\n100 or 200 lb., in an open belfry, on a school\nhouse or factory in the country, is frequently\nheard at a long distance, out of all proportion,\napparently, to one of 1,000 lb. in a church tower\nnear by; and instances of this kind frequently\ncause no little comment in the way of compari-\nson. The reason for this is, that the small bell\nhas a sharp, shrill, penetrating sound, that\nmust, of necessity, be heard a great deal far-\nther in proportion to its weight, than the low,\nmellow, church going sound of the church bell.\nThe same principle applies to the whistle of a lo-\ncomotive, and it is heard a long distance sim-\nply because its tone is shrill and penetrating.\nWhen hung stationary and struck or tolled,\nbells will not be heard, as a rule, half as far as\nwhen swung. The swinging motion throws\nthe mouth of the bell up, and not only carries\nthe sound off, but imparts to it a richness that\nis always absent when the bell is at rest and\nstruck. A great deal is to be gained by ringing\na bell properly, throwing the mouth well up,\nand not lazily jingling it. It is not physical\nstrength that is required in ringing a bell so\nmuch as getting the knack of catching the rope\njust right, particularly on the second down\npull. The windows in the tower should be as\nopen as possible, and the tower should be ceiled\njust above the windows.\nBelting.— Directions for Calculating the\nWidth of Belts Required for Transmitting Differ-\nent Numbers of Horse Power.— Multiply 33,000\nby the number of horse power to be trans-\nmitted divide the amount by the number of\nfeet the belt is to run per minute divide the\nquotient by the number of feet or parts of a\nfoot in length of belt contact with smaller\ndrum or pulley divide this last quotient by\nsix, and the result is the required width of a\nsingle tanned leather belt in inches.\nExplanations.— The figures 33,000 represent\nthe number of lb. a horse is reckoned to be\nable to raise one foot high in a minute. To\nobtain the number of feet a belt runs per\nminute, find the number of revolutions per\nminute of the driving shaft, and multiply by\nthe circumference of the drum, which is al-\nways 3 1416 its diameter. The final division\nby six is because half a pound raised one foot\nhigh per minute is allowed to each square inch\nof belting in contact with the pulley a pound\nmust therefore be allowed to 2 sq. in., or 6 lb. to\na strip one foot long and one inch broad.\nExample.— Required the width of a single\nbelt, the velocity of which is to be 1,500 ft. per\nminute it has to transmit 10 horse power, the\ndiameter of smaller drum being four feet,\nwith 5 feet of its circumference in contact with\nbelt:\n33,000 X 10 330,000 1,500 220 5 44 6\n73^ in., the required width of belt.\nDirections for Calculating the Number of\nHorse Power which a Belt ivill Transmit.\nDivide the number of square inches of belt\nin contact with the pulley by two multiply\nthis quotient by the velocity of the belt in feet\nper minute; again divide the total by 33,000,\nand the quotient is the number of horse\npower.\nExplanations.— The early division by two is\nto obtain the number of lb. raised one foot\nhigh per minute, half a lb. being allowed co\neach square inch of belting in contact with\nthe pulley.\nExample.- A six inch single belt is being moved\nwith a velocity of 1,200 feet per minute, with\nfour feet of its length in contact with a three\nfoot drum. Required the horse power.\n6 X 48 288 2 144 X 1,200 172,800-^-33,000\nsay 5J4 horse power.\nIt is safe to reckon that a double belt will do\nhalf as much work again as a single one. Belt-\ning made from Helvetia leather is much\nstronger and will bear a heavier strain than\nthat made from ordinary tanned leather.\nHints to Users of Belting.— 1. Horizontal, in-\nclined and long belts give much better effect\nthan vertical and short belts.\n2. Short belts require to be tighter than long\nones. A long belt working horizontally in-\ncreases the grip by its own weight.\n3. If there is too great a distance between\nthe pulleys, the weight of the belt will pro-\nduce a heavy sag, drawing so hard on the shaft\nas to cause great friction at the bearings;\nwhile at the same time the belt will have an\nunsteady, flapping motion, iajurious to itself\nand to the machinery.\n4. Care should be taken to let belts run free\nand easy, so as to prevent the tearing out of\nlace holes at the lap it also prevents the rapid\nwear of the metal bearings.\n5. It is asserted that the grain side of a belt\nput next to the pulley will drive 30$ more than\nthe flesh side. Experience can alone verify\nthis but when belts are required to be worked\nthis way, the fact should be stated in the order,\nso that the riveting may be arranged accord-\ningly.\n6. To obtain a greater amount of power from\nbelts, the pulleys may be covered with leather;\nthis will allow the belts to be run very slack,\nand give 25$ more durability.\n7. Leather belts should be well protected\nagainst water, and even loose steam or other\nmoisture.\n8. Belts working in very wet places should\nbe ordered to be waterproofed.\n9. A careful workman will see that his belts\nare re-dressed about every four months, by\nsponging the dirt from them with warm soap\nand water; then drying with a cloth, and, while\nstill damp, rubbing in castor oil or currier s\ngrease, which will be readily absorbed, the\nleather being moist from washing. Castor oil","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0654.jp2"},"647":{"fulltext":"Blacking.\n635\nBlacking.\nhas the additional advantage of preventing\nrats attacking the leather.\n10. In putting on a belt, be sure that the\njoints run with the pulleys, and not against\nthem.\n11. In purchasing a belt for lacing, it is desir-\nable to use an oval punch; the larger diameter\nof the punch being parallel with the belt, so as\nto cut out as little of the effective section of\nthe leather as possible.\n12. Begin to lace in the center of the belt, and\ntake care to keep the ends exactly in line and\nto lace both sides with equal tightness. The\nlacing should not be crossed on the side of the\nbelt that runs next the pulley. Thin but strong\nlaces only should be used.\n13. It is desirable to locate the shafting and\nmachinery so that belts shall run off from each\nother in opposite directions, as this arrange-\nment will relieve the bearings from the friction\nthat would result where the belts all pull one\nway on the shaft.\n14. If possible, the machinery should be so\nplanned that the direction of the belt motion\nshall be from the top of the driving to the top\nof the driven pulley.\n15. Never overload a belt.\n16. A careful attendant will make a belt last\nmany years, which through neglect might not\nlast one.\nBlacking for Boots and Shoes.— There\nis a variety of so-called leather varnishes which\nwill not stand any damp whatever. They are\nconsequently never used like blacking, but em-\nployed only to impart to boots and shoes an\nincreased polish, and are laid on much thinner\nthan blacking.\nDr. Winterfield gives for a varnish, which is\nreported to be equal -to the well known Paris\npolish, tbe following recipe Take 200 grm. of\nground gallnuts and 100 grm. of ground log-\nwood and boil with 5 liters of wine (water will\ndo as well) for half an hour; filter and add to\nthe liquid 100 grm. of sulphate of iron and 25\ngrm. of blue vitriol, leaving the whole after-\nward standing for a night. Next day the clear\nis poured off from the sediment and 900 grm. of\npowdered gum arabic (better and cheaper,\nSenegal gum) are solved in the liquid, which\nmust be slightly warmed. To this solution 600\ngrm. of sirup and 1^ liters of 90$ alcohol are\nadded. The varnish, now ready, is preserved\nin air-tight bottles. When wanted, it is laid on\nwith a brush; when dry, polish.\nAnother recipe prescribes that 200 grm. of\nsoap, 100 grm. of starch, 100 grm. of sulphate of\niron and 100 grm. of powdered gallnuts should\nbe boiled with 2 liters of water, filtered and\nmixed with 300 grm. of fine animal charcoal\nand 600 grm. of syrup. This preparation is said\nto give a high luster, and is, at any rate, not\ninjurious to the leather.\nIn like manner, 500 grm. of stearine acid (stear-\nine candle) may be dissolved into 700 grm. of\noil of turpentine, heating very gently, and then\n300 grm. of lampblack mixed with it. Of this\nmixture a little is put on a rag, the boot is\nrubbed with it, and then polished with a bit of\nlinen rag. A brush with short hair may also\nbe used for the purpose.\nA liquid known in the trade as Delphineum,\nin small bottles, is for preserving boots and\nshoes, and renders them waterproof. One\nbottle is said to be sufficient for 180 pairs of\nboots. Inusingit a few drops are put on with\na sponge which produces a beautiful deep black\nluster Avhich will stand water. The liquid is a\nsolution of 10 grm. of dark shellac in 50 grm. of\nalcohol, to which grm. of lampblack and 60\ndrops of fish oil have been added.\nNicolet s shoe blacking, which brightens the\nleather and at the same time greases it, is pre-\npared by dissolving 150 parts of wax and 15\nparts tallow in a boiling mixture of 200 parts\nlinseed oil, 20 parts litharge, and 100 parts mo-\nlasses, heating to 110° or 120°, adding 103 parts\nblack, diluting after the mass is cooled with\n280 parts oil of turpentine and mixing with a\nsolution of 5 parts gum lac and 2 parts aniline\nviolet in 35 parts alcohol.\nA leather varnish is prepared in Berlin by\nmixing a filtered solution of 80 parts of shellac\nin 15 parts of alcohol, with 3 parts of wax, 2\nparts of castor oil, and a sufficient quantity of\npigment. The mixture is evaporated in a vacu-\num to a syrup. The varnish is applied to the\nleather with a brush moistened with alcohol or\nwith a colorless alcoholic varnish. Nicolet, of\nLyons, prepares boot blacking by dissolving\n150 parts of wax and 15 parts of tallow in a mix-\nture of 200 parts of linseed oil, 20 parts of lith-\narge, and 100 parts of molasses, at a tempera-\nture of 230° or 250° F. After this, 103 parts of\nlampblack are added, and when cold, it is di-\nluted with 280 parts of spirits of turpentine,\nand finally is mixed with a solution of 5 parts\nof gum lac and 2 parts aniline violet in 5 parts\nof alcohol.\nAnother kind of shoe blacking is made by\nmelting 20 parts of beeswax, or cerasine, 30 parts\nof spermaceti, and 350 parts of spirits of turpen-\ntine, with 20 parts of asphalt varnish, and add\n10 parts of borax, 10 parts of lampblack, 10\nparts of Prussian blue, and 5 parts of nitro-\nbenzol.\nBrunner uses 10 parts of boneblack, 10 parts\nof glucose syrup, 5 parts of sulphuric acid, 20\nparts of train oil, 4 parts of water and 2 parts\nof carbonate of soda. The boneblack and glu-\ncose are stirred with the acid in a porcelain ves-\nsel until the whole mass is homogeneous, and\nhas a shining black surface when at rest. The\nsoda is dissolved in a little water, and boiled\nwith the oil under constant stirring, until it\nforms a thick liquid, and then the other mixture\nis stirred into it. By varying the proportions of\nthese two mixtures, the blacking is made thin-\nner and softer or harder and firmer. The sub-\nstances sold as French polish are mostly com-\nposed of these ingredients. In this and all\nother kinds of shoe biacking made with bone-\nblack and sulphuric acid, the precaution must\nbe observed of stirring rapidly and evenly after\nthe acid is added, otherwise lumps will be\nformed that are difficult to crush, and the\nblacking will have a granular condition that\ndoes not belong to it. Good shoe blacking\nmust always remain soft and show a smooth\nuniform surface when applied to the leather.\nA German journal gives the following lea-\nther polish Mix 200 parts of shellac with 1,000\nof spirit (95$) in a well-stoppered bottle. Keep\nin a warm place for two or three days, shaking\nfrequently. Separately dissolve 25 parts of\nMarseilles soap in 375 parts of warmed spirit\n(25$), and to the solution add 40 parts of glycer-\nine. Shake well and mix with the shellac solu-\ntion. To the mixture add 5 parts of nigrosin\ndissolved in 125 parts of spirit. Close well the\nvessel and shake energetically, and then leave\nthe mixture in a warm place for a fortnight.\nThe following composition for boot blacking\nforms the object of a German patent\nParts by weight.\nBeeswax or ceresine earth wax. 90\nSpermaceti 30\nTurpentine oil 350\nBlack japan 20\nBorax, finely powdered 10\nSoot or raven black 20\nBerlin blue (dark) 10\nNitrobenzol 5\nAfter the wax has been gradually melted the\nborax is added. Then in succession the sper-\nmaceti, turpentine oil, and black japan are\nadded. The soot and Berlin blue are then well\nmixed with the substance, and the whole is well\nstirred. Finally the nitrobenzol is added in\norder to remove the unpleasant odor of the\nturpentine oil.\nBlacking Itletals.— To Color IronandSteel\na Dead Black.— A new blacking fluid has been","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0655.jp2"},"648":{"fulltext":"Bubbles.\n636\nCalendar.\ninvented by M. Mazure. According to Cosmos,\nthis liquid has the following formula\nBismuth chloride 1 part.\nMercury bichloride 2 parts.\nCopper chloride 1 part.\nHydrochloric acid 6 parts.\nAlcohol 5 parts.\nWater 50 parts.\nMix. To use this fluid successfully, the article\nto be blacked or bronzed must be clean and\nfree from grease. It may be applied with a\nbrush or swab, or better still, the object may\nbe dipped into it. Let the liquid dry on the\nmetal, and then place the latter into boil-\ning water, and maintain the temperature\nfor half an hour. If the color is then not\nas dark as desired, repeat the operation.\nThe editor of the National Druggist finds\nit to work beautifully. After getting the de-\nsired color, the latter is fixed and much im-\nproved by placing for a few minutes in a bath\nof boiling oil, or by coating the surface with\noil and heating the object until the oil is\ndriven off.\nBubbles. Film Mixtures from Various\nSources.— 1. For soap bubble solution the best\nmaterial is pure oleate of soda. Oleic acid as\nsold in the s bops is far from reliable, contain-\ning one or more other fatty acids, such as\nstearic acid. To make the pure acid, 2 oz. of\npure soap (almond oil is the best, but .Castile\nwill answer) are dissolved in 20 oz. of boiling\nwater. One oz. of sulphuric acid, previously\ndiluted with 2 oz. water and allowed to cool, is\nadded. The fatty acids rise to the surface in\nan oily layer. The water is siphoned off, and\nthey are washed three times with boiling wa-\nter. The mass is allowed to cool, and is remov-\ned from the surface of the water, where it\nfloats. It is weighed, mixed with its weight\nof litharge, and heated (2l2°-22o° F.) until com-\nplete combination is effected. This may be\nknown by the cessation of any evolution of\nbubbles from the mass. The resulting lead\nplaster is allowed to stand mixed with 10 to 15\ntimes its weight of ether in a tightly corked\nbottle until completely disintegrated. Then it\nis filtered, and to the filtrate hydrochloric acid\nis added as long as any lead is precipitated.\nThe ethereal solution is poured off, and the\nether recovered by distillation, leaving pure\noleic acid. Two fi. drm. of the acid is added to\nsomewhat less than 1 pt. of boiling water, and\nsolution of caustic soda very carefully added,\ndrop by drop, until complete solution of the\nacid is effected, very carefully avoiding an ex-\ncess of soda, and after cooling, water is added\nto make it measure just 1 pt. A standard soap\nsolution is thus obtained. To this add its\nbulk of the best glycerine (Scheering Glatz s,\nor Price s). Shake long and well, and the mix-\nture is ready for use.\n2. Take of Castile soap 75 grn., dissolve in 4\ndrm. of distilled water, and filter. To every 3\nparts by measure add 2 parts of glycerine\nshake and allow to stand before using.\n3. Plateau s Mixture.— The preparation must\nbe executed in a warm room, not colder than\n68° F., in the daytime, at least. One part (by\nweight) of recently made Marseilles soap is dis-\nsolved in 40 parts of distilled water at a moder-\nate heat. When the solution has sunk nearly\nto the temperature of the room, it is filtered.\nThree volumes of this solution are mixed with\n2 of Price s glycerine (15 parts to 11 parts is\nsometimes given), poured into a flask, and vig-\norously shaken, and for a long time. The mix-\nture is allowed to stand for seven days. On the\neighth day it is cooled in ice water to about\n37° F., and kept at this temperature for six\nhours. It is then filtered through very porous\npaper. With ordinary paper it can hardly be\nmade to pass by any amount of waiting. The\ncontents of the filter must be kept cold by do-\ning the work in the ice chamber of a refriger-\nator orbv keeping a stoppered tube full of ice\nin the funnel. The bottom of the flask into\nwhich the liquid drops is surrounded by ice.\nThe first portions are turbid they are poured\nback, and eventually a perfectly clear solution\nis obtained. After all the work, if the soap and\nglycerine are not good, the bubbles from the\nmixture will often last only a few minutes.\nThey should last eighteen hours in the open\nair, supported on a horizontal ring previously\nmoistened with the same solution. The above\nmixture must be filtered through very porous\npaper.\n4. Dissolve 2 oz. of palm oil or castile soap in\n1 pt. of rain water, previously cutting the soap\ninto small pieces. Shake until all is dissolved\nthat the water will take up. Let it stand from\ntwenty-four to thirty-six hours. If settled,\ncarefully pour off the clear solution through\nflannel. If it does not settle, pour off some of\nthe cloudy solution and add more water. Then\nit will hardly fail to settle. To 1 volume of the\nclear solution add ]4 a volume of pure gly-\ncerine.\n5. Dissolve a piece of glycerine soap finely\nsliced in rain water at 110° F. (Not reliable.)\n6. Collodion Film Mixture.—\nEther (by weight) 89 parts.\nAbsolute alcohol b\\£ parts.\nPhotographic gun cotton 5% parts.\nDissolve and decant. To 100 parts of the clear\nsolution add 70 to 100 parts pure castor oil.\nThis makes permanent films, but not as satis-\nfactory ones as those given by the rosin mix-\nture.\n7. Rosin Film Mixture.— Rosin, 46 parts (by\nweight); Canada balsam, 53 parts; melt to-\ngether and add a few drops of turpentine. In\nusing, heat a little over the boiling point of\nwater. The higher the heat, the thinner and\nbetter the films; but with too hot a mixture\nthey are not permanent.\nNote.— Almond oil soap is probably the best\nof the commercial soaps, or as good as any.\nThe writer has never tried it. Holbrook s\nGallipoli soap, (of Washington street, N. Y.,)\ntreated by Plateau s method, makes an excel-\nlent mixture. It is the only soap with which\nwe could ever produce a rainbow or even a\nlasting bubble. Scheering Glatz s glycerine is\nperfectly satisfactory. Glycerine is frequently\nadulterated with glucose. Such is useless.\nMarseilles soap, such as can be bought in this\ncity, or Holbrook s brown oil silk soaps, make a\nfair mixture. Plateau s process is the proper\none to follow. Oleate of soda is generally con-\nsidered to make the best. Sometimes sugar so-\nlution is recommended instead of glycerine,\nbut this recommendation should not be fol-\nlowed.— T. O Conor Sloane in Supplement, 65k.\nCalendar.— Te Find the Dan of the Week for\nAny Given Date.— Take the given date in 4 por-\ntions, viz., the number of centuries, the number\nof years over, the month, and the day of the\nmonth.\nCompute the following 4 items, adding each,\nwhen found, to the total of the previous items.\nWhen an item or total exceeds 7, divide by 7,\nand keep the remainder only.\nThe Century Item.— For old style (which\nended September 2, 1752), subtract from 18. For\nnew style (which began September 14) divide\nby 4, take overplus from 3, multiply remainder\nby 2.\nThe Year Item.— Add together the number of\ndozens, the overplus, and the number of 4 s in\nthe overplus.\nThe Month Item.— If it begins or ends with a\nvowel, subtract the number denoting its place\nin the year from 10. This, plus its number of\ndays, gives the item for the following month.\nThe item for January is 0; for February or\nMarch (the 3d month), 3; for December (the 12th\nmonth), 12.\nThe Day Item is the day of the month.\nThe total thus reached must be corrected by\ndeducting 1 (first adding 7, if the total be 0), if","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0656.jp2"},"649":{"fulltext":"Cements.\n637\nChemical.\nthe date be January or February in a leap year;\nremembering- that every year dn T isible by 4 is a\nleap year, excepting- only the century years, in\nnew style, when the number of centuries is not\nso divisible (e. g., 1800).\nThe final result gives the day of the week,\nmeaning Sunday, 1 Monday, and so on.\nExamples.— 1783, September 18.— 17 divided by\n4 leaves 1 over; 1 from 3 gives 2; twice 2 is 4. 83\nis 6 dozen and 11, giving 17; plus 2 gives 19, i. e.\n(dividing by 7), 5. Total 9, i. e., 2. The item for\nAugust is 8 from 10, i. e., 2; so, for September,\nit is 2 plus 3, i. e., 5. Total 7, i. e., 0, which goes\nout. 18 gives 4. Answer, Thursday.\n1676, February 23.-16 from 18 gives 2. 76 is 6\ndozen and 4, giving 10; plus 1 gives 11, i. e., 4.\nTotal 6. The item for February is 3. 1 Total 9,\ni. e., 2. 23 gives 2. Total 4. Correction for\nleap year gives 3. Answer, Wednesday.\nCements,- Celluloid, Cement for.— A good\ncement for celluloid is made from 1 part^hellac\ndissolved in 1 part of spirits of camphor, and 3\nto 4 parts of 90$ alcohol. The cement should be\napplied warm, and the broken parts securely\nheld together until the solvent has entirely eva-\nporated.\nCloth, Cement for.— Use thin sheet gutta per-\ncha which can be purchased of the manufac-\nturers, especially for tailors use. Place a piece\nof the tissue between the layers of cloth to be\ncemented and press with a hot iron. This\ncauses the cloth to firmly adhere on account of\nthe melting of the gutta percha.\nChemical Manipulation.— The follow-\ning hints on chemical manipulation will prove\nof use to the amateur:\nTo Bend Glass Tube.— Heat the tube in the\nbroad flame of an ordinary fish tail or bat s\nwing burner until it begins to bend by its own\nweight. Then it may easily be bent to the re-\nquired shape without creasing if removed from\nthe flame. In bending wind tubes (say 5 in.\ndiameter), it is better either to heat a consid-\nerable length of them to redness in a charcoal\nor combustion furnace, and then make the re-\nquired bend, or to heat successive portions in\nthe large blowpipe flame, and bend each por-\ntion, and so make the bend by degrees.\nTo Draw a Piece of Tube Out to a Jet.— Heat\nthe glass in the blowpipe flame, at the point\nwhere the jet is required, while slowly turning-\nit round, until it thickens. AVhen it is heated\nequally all round, withdraw it from the flame\nand draw it out to the required jet. Next cut\noff at the middle of the narrow part, and heat\nthe end in the flame for a moment to fuse the\nsharp edges.\nTo Mend a Test Tube.— Test tubes frequently\nbreak at the bottom, and may then be mended\nas follows Fasten a piece of scrap tube on to\nthe broken end by making both soft in the\nflame, and immediately draw off the test tube\nas near as possible to the broken end. The fine\npoint of the blowpipe flame must then be\ndirected upon the narrowed portion, so as to\nproduce an extremely narrowed neck, as shown,\nand the two portions must then be severed by\ndrawing off at the narrowed point. This leaves\na small lump of glass; to remove this, heat the\nlump in the flame until it is soft, and blow it\nout to a small bubble at the end of the tube.\nNow heat the whole end in a large blowpipe\nflame, or in the flame of a good Bunsen burner,\nkeeping it turning all the time until it shrinks\nin regularly to a flattened hemisphere. Then\nblow gently into the tube, when the end ex-\npands into a uniformly thin hemispherical\nbottom. The small tubes of hard glass for use\nin. blow pipe anaylsis are made in the same\nway.\nTo Cut Glass Tube.— To cut off ordinary quill\ntubing, nick the tube with the edge of a sharp\nthree-cornered file (if the file is sharp, one\nstroke across the glass is sufficient), and then\nplacing the thumbs one on each side of the\nnick, give the hands a quick movement as if to\nbend the tube, which then easilv snaos off.\nThick, wide tubing is cut by filing a deeper\nnick into it some distance round, and wrapping\nit in a towel before attempting to break it.\nThe end of a combustion tube is trimmed by\nthe pincers. The tube is held in the left hand,\nand the pincers in the right one of the hau-\ndles being between the thumb and forefinger,\nand the other between the last two fingers\nBy moving the latter handle and at the same\ntime smartly turning the wrist, a nibbling mo-\ntion is given to the points of the pincers,\neasily enabling the operator to level the end of\nthe tube, which must afterward be fused for\na moment in the blowpipe flame.\nThin tubes cannot be cut by the file; it is bet-\nter to lead a crack round them by a hot glass\nrod. Broken flasks and bottles may often be\nput to valuable use by cutting them in the\nsame way. A crack is started by the pincers,\nor by pressing a hot rod upon them, and then\ntouching the heated part with the wet finger;\nthis is then led round the vessel in anv direc-\ntion by keeping the end of the hot rod a little\nin advance of the crack.\nTo Grind Glass.— The ends of thick tubes may\nbe ground level upon a stone with turpentine,\nthe addition of sand, or, still better, emery\npowder increases the action.\nTo Fuse a Platinum Wire into a Tube.— Draw\nout the tube to a narrow jet and insert the\nclean end of the wire, then heat the end in the\nflame until the glass shrinks and clasps the\nwire. Cool slowly.\nTo Make a T Piece.— The glass for this pur-\npose must be soft lead glass, however, is not\nthe best. Cut two pieces of the same tube into\nconvenient lengths, and close the end of one.\nThen heat the closed piece at one point near\nthe middle by the point of the flame. When\nthe spot is well heated, blow out a bubble,\nand break this by a tap upon the table. This\nshould leave a hole about as large as the dia-\nmeter of the tube. Now heat the projecting\nedges of this hole and the end of the second\npiece of tube in the same flame, keeping the\nunclosed end of the first tube stopped by the\nfinger. When the glass is hot, bring the end of\nthe second tube and the sides of the hole to-\ngether, withdraw the glass from the flame and\nblow gently in the tube. This gives an imper-\nfectly made joint. Now direct the point of a\nhot flame upon the joint until the two portions\nforming the juncture fuse together and shrink\nin. While the tube is hot, blow in gently to\nexpand the shrunken part; go round the junc-\nture in this way until the line of division dis-\nappears. Cool slowly. In the same way two\npieces of tube are joined in a straight line, by\nheating the two ends, bringing; them together,\nand then going round the joint till it disap-\npears.\nTo Clean Vessels.— A mop made by fixing a bit\nof sponge to the end of a thick wire is very use-\nful in cleaning test tubes. Care must be taken\nthat no projecting portion of the wire is left to\nbreak the bottom of the tube. According to\nthe solubility of the substance defiling the ves-\nsel to be cleaned, a little common acid or alkali\nmay be used; but in very many cases water\nalone suffices. Vessels contaminated with sub-\nstances of the nature of pitch, tar, etc., are\ncleaned by heating a little strong sulphuric acid\nin them. To clean evaporating basins, beakers,\netc., a little sea sand (which has no sharp edges)\nor furnace ashes niay be used to scour them.\nPlatinum crucibles are cleansed by gently\nscouring with sea sand and the finger. Some-\ntimes a little acid sulphate of potassium fused\nin them will remove obstinate impurities.\nAqua regia should never be used to clean pla-\ntinum, and all vessels must finally be rinsed\nwith distilled water.\nTo Remove Stoppers that have Become Fixed\n—Heat the neck of the bottle by pouring hot\nwater round it, or by rotating it once quiekly\nin a flame; this expands the neck and allows","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0657.jp2"},"650":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n638\nCleansing;.\nthe stopper to be withdrawn; or tap the stop-\nper gently with some wooden object until it is\nloose. Sometimes aatopper may be extracted\nby holding- the bottle in the hand; inserting the\nflat part of the stopper into a crevice of a door,\netc., and turning the bottle. Stoppers may\noften be removed by soaking in hot water or\nby placing a little oil around them, which after\na time sinks in and loosens them.\nTo Cleanse Mercury.— Leave the mercury in\na flat dish with dilute nitric acid, containing\nnitrate of mercury, and stir occasionally for\nsome hours.\nSulphuric acid diluted with twice its weight\nof water may also be used.\nFor gas analysis, mercury is cleansed and\ndried by placing it in a funnel tube, stoppered\nat top and bottom, together with strong sul-\nphuric acid. The mercury is introduced at the\ntop and drawn off at the bottom. It is often\nadvisable to filter. mercury through a filter\nmade by bending a piece of writing paper in\nthe usual way and making a small pin hoZe at\nthe bottom. Faraday recommends that before\nbeing filtered, the mercury should be shaken in\na bottle with a little powdered lump sugar, pre-\nviously slightly damped by breathing several\ntimes into the bottle containing it. This re-\nmoves scum.\nCleansing.- Chamois Skin, to Clean. 1. Soak\nin a weak solution of washing soda, then in\nsoap suds for two hours; then rinse thoroughly\nin water, and finally, in a solution of soap and\nsoda, and dry.\n2. Wet the chamois leather in water just off\ncold— not at all hot— squeeze it between the two\nhands, then lay it flat on a board or table, and\nrub soap over both its sides do not treat it as\nif it were a coarse cloth, but keep squeezing\nand opening and opening and squeezing it in\nthe hands to get the soap well through it.\nNext rinse it in several waters till the dirt is\nout— cold water always. Examine if more soap\nis wanted if so, again lay the piece flat and\nrub the soap over evey inch of it. Then press\nand squeeze and rinse as before until it becomes\nclean. Hang it up to half dry, then rub it in\nthe hands to soften and stretch it, and continue\nthis until it dries; finally, roll it in a mangle.\nEngravings, Cleaning of.— Staining not only\noccurs in old engravings, but in modern ones\nwe very often see parts of a picture stained\nsometimes through a knot in the back board or\nthe wood of the same being full of turpentine.\nAll these markings can be removed. My plan\nis to get a dish or china tray a little larger than\nthe engraving to be operated upon; if smaller\nthere is a great risk of tearing and damaging\nthe engraving. The bleaching agent is no other\nthan Holmes ozone bleach. The strength I\nprefer to any other is 1 part ozone bleach to 10\nparts water, well shaken up before pouring\ninto the dish. A much stronger solution can\nbe used in fact, I have used it as strong as 1\npart to 5 parts water; but the reason I use the\nweaker one is that I am of the opinion that the\nless of the agent we use the less we have to\nsoak out of the paper afterward.\nI immerse the engraving in the solution, face\nupward, avoiding bubbles. The only caution\nto be observed is that when the engraving is\nsodden with water it is somewhat rotten; so the\nless it is handled the better, though I have not\nthe slightest fear in manipulating engravings\nof the largest size. Sometimes, if the engrav-\ning be only slightly stained, half an hour is quite\nsufficient, but when quite brown I have left\nthem in for as long as four hours. With a strong-\ner solution the time required is much less.\nAfter all the stains are removed, and the\npaper has regained its pure whiteness, pour the\nsolution out of the dish into a bottle (as this\ncan be used over and over again— that is, seve-\nral times until it becomes discolored, when it\nmust be discarded), then fill up the dish with\nwater, changing frequently for about two\nhours: or, better still, place it in running water.\nWhen sufficiently washed, it can be taken out\nand blotted off and then hung up to dry, and,\nwhen perfectly dry, I find it advisable to iron\nit on the back with a warm flat iron; but care\nmust be taken not to have it too hot. When\nfinished it will be as white as the first day it\ncame from the press.— W. B., British Journal of\nPhotography.\nCleaning Old Engravings.— A correspondent\nof the Chemist and Druggist says upon this sub-\nject\nNo one who values an engraving will try a\nchemical receipt until plain remedies have been\nessayed. I have cleaned a set of 760 manu-\nscripts, more or less illegible, in the following\nmanner\nA large German sitz bath is made perfectly\nclean half filled with water filtered through a\ncarbon filter. The manuscript is floated on the\nwater, face downward, for twenty-four hours,\nthe color obtained being sufficient evidence as\nto what has taken place. The manuscript is\nlifted out of the water by a large, perfectly\nclean sheet of window glass being passed under-\nneath after being drained it is transferred to\na sheet of white blotting paper, never being\ntouched by the hand. When thus the first\ndampness has been removed, it is transferred to\nfresh blotting paper, dried and ironed in the\nusual way.\nThis plan will serve in the case of nine engra-\nvings out of ten— excepting always that, before\nironing, the engraving is finished off with\nbread crumbs applied by a circular motion of\nthe hands, as practiced in the art schools.\nThis plan, with regard to ancient stains, mil-\ndew, and grease spots, is ineffective, and re-\ncourse must be had to other means.\nRemoving Mildew Stains.— The most success-\nful method is to immerse each mildewed sheet\nseparately in a solution made in the proportions\nof yh lb. chloride of lime to 1 pt. of water. Let\nit stand, with frequent stirring, for twenty-\nfour hours, and then strain through muslin,\nand finally add 1 qt. of water. Mildew and\nother stains will be found to disappear very\nquickly, and the sheets must then be passed se-\nparately through clear water, or the chloride\nof lime, if left in the paper, will cause it to rot.\nOld prints, engravings, and every description\nof printed matter may be successfully treated\nin the same manner.\nThe objection to this method is that an unna-\ntural whiteness is effected, which in printed\nmatter is of no consequence, but seriously in-\nterferes with the beauty of a line engraving.\nThe formula which I still want includes 2 solu-\ntions— 1 of eau de Javelle, and the other proba-\nbly of hyposulphite of soda. It was copied from\na periodical about four months ago, but it was\nburnt just as it was being used.\nPlace them, 1 or 2 at a time, in a shallow dish,\nand pour water over them until they are com-\npletely soaked or saturated with it. Then care-\nfully pour off the water, and pour on to the\nprints a solution of chloride of lime (1 part\nliq. calcis chlorate. B. P., to 39 parts of wa-\nter). As a general rule, the stains disappear\nas if by magic, but occasionally they are obsti-\nnate. When that is the case pour on the spot\npure liquid calcium chlorate, and if that does\nnot succeed, add a little acid nitro-hydrochlo-\nric, dilute. As soon as they are clean, they\nmust be carefully washed with successive por-\ntions of water, until the whole of the chlorine\nis got rid of. They should, then be placed in a\nvery weak solution of isinglass or glue, and\nmany collectors color this solution with coffee\ngrounds, etc., to give a yellow tint to the\nprint. They should be dried between folds of\nblotting paper, either in a press or under a heavy\nbook, and finally ironed with an ordinary flat-\niron to restore the gloss, etc. (place clean paper\nbetween the iron and the print).\nFruit Stains, to Remove.— Boiling water will\ntake out the stains of nearly all fruits, but on\nthe juice of some, such as peaches, nectarines-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0658.jp2"},"651":{"fulltext":"Diamine,\n639\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nand blackberries, it seems to have but little\neffect.\nOthers yield readily to bleaching powder,\nespecially if after being put on it is moistened\nwith a drop of some acid, as vinegar or lemon;\nbut do not under any circumstances use acids\non colored goods.\nGrease Spots, Mixture for Cleaning. Equal\nparts of strong ammonia water, ether and\nalcohol form a valuable cleaning compound.\nPass a piece of blotting paper under the grease\nspot, moisten a sponge, first with water to ren-\nder it greedy, then with the mixture, and rub\nthe spot with it. In a moment it is dissolved,\nsaponified, and absorbed by the sponge and\nblotter.\nLeather, to Clean Light Colored.— For fawn or\nyellow colored leather, take 1 qt. skimmed\nmilk, pour into it 1 oz. sulphuric acid, and\nwhen cold, add to it 4 oz. hydrochloric acid,\nshaking the bottle gently until it ceases to emit\nwhite vapors; separate the coagulated from\nthe liquid part, by straining through a sieve,\nand store it away till required, In applying it,\nclean the leather by a weak solution of oxalic\nacid, washing it off immediately, and apply tne\ncomposition when dry, with a sponge.\nMildew, to Remove. Mildew is the hardest of\nall stains to remove, and cannot be taken out\nof linen unless the effort is made soon after it\nappears. A very fresh, light stain may be\ntreated successfully by covering it with table\nsalt wet with lemon juice, and placing it on the\ngrass in the sun. But the best remedy is the\nfollowing Mix soft soap with powdered starch,\nhalf as much table salt, and the juice of a\nlemon. Spread this mixture -thickly on both\nsides of the mildewed linen, and then lay the\nfabric on the grass in the sun. Repeat the\noperation two or three times a day, leaving the\ncloth out overnight as is done in bleaching. If\nthis will not remove the stain, nothing will do\nit.\nCombining Weight.— This expression is\nnow generally used in connection with the ele-\nments as synonymous with atomic weight, and\nin connection with compounds, as synonymous\nwith molecular weight.\nDiamine.— An amine formulated on the\ntype of two molecules of ammonia.\nDiatomic.— Equivalent in combining power\nto that of two atoms of hydrogen.\nDibasic. A term applied to acids which\ncontain two atoms of hydrogen, replacable by\nmetals to form salts.\nDiffusion (of gases). The property pos-\nsessed by gases of different densities of spon-\ntaneously mixing when placed in communica-\ntion with each other.\nDimorphous. Possessing two distinct\nforms, crystalline or otherwise.\nDyad.— An element or compound radical\ncapable of replacing two atoms of hydrogen in\ncombination.\nDriers. The following points should be ob-\nserved in using driers\n1. Not to use them unnecessarily with pig-\nments which dry well in oil color.\n2. Not to employ them in excess, which would\nonly retard the drying.\n3. Not to add them to the color until about\nto be used.\n4. Not to use more than one drier to the\nsame color.\n5. To avoid the use of patent driers, unless\nknown to be of good quality.\n6. To avoid the use of driers in the finishing\ncoat of light colors, as they are liable to injure\nthe color.\nEffusion (of gases).— A term used to sig-\nnify the passage of gases through minute\norifices.\nElect ro-Metall u rgy. —Coppering Bath for\nZinc— This bath is composed as follows\nCrystallized acetate of copper... .200 grm.\nCarbonate of soda 200 grm.\nCrystallized bisulphide of soda.. .200 grm.\nPotassic cyanide 300 grm.\nDistilled water 10 liters.\nThis solution should be energetically boiled\nbefore being used.\nElectro-plating with Aluminum. In the\nJewelers Journal the following recipe for\nelectro-plating with aluminum is given by\nHerman Rein bold\nFifty parts of alum, A1K(S0 4 2 12H 2 0, are\ndissolved in 300 parts of water, and to this 10\nparts of chloride of alumina (A1 2 C1 6 are added,\nheated to 200° and cooled, whereupon 39 parts\nof cyanide of potassium are added. The\nobject to be plated has to be cleaned, and to be\nabsolutely free from grease in any f orm,where-\nupon it is suspended in the bath over the\nelectro-positive electrode, the plate of metallic\naluminum to be suspended on the negative\npole. The electric current ought to be weak.\nThe plating when polished will be found to be\nequal to the best silver plating, having the ad-\nvantage of not being oxidized or getting black\nwhen brought into contact with sulphurous\nvapors, which would make it especially valuable\nfor plating spoons and tableware.\nMetallo-chromes. A remarkably beautiful\neffect of electro-chemical decomposition is pro-\nduced under the following conditions: A con-\ncentrated solution of acetate of lead (sugar of\nlead) is first made, and after being filtered, is\npoured into a shallow porcelain dish. A plate\nof polished steel is now immersed in the solu-\ntion, and allowed to rest on the bottom of the\ndish. A small disk of sheet copper is then to\nbe connected to the wire proceeding from the\nzinc element of a constant battery of two or\nthree cells, and the wire connected to the cop-\nper element is to be placed in contact with the\nsteel plate. If now the copper disk be brought\nas close to the steel plate as possible, without\ntouching it, in a few moments a series of beau-\ntiful prismatic colorations will appear upon the\nsteel surface, when the plate should be removed,\nand rinsed in clean water. These colorations-\nare films of lead in the state of peroxide, and\nthe varied hues are due to the difference in\nthickness of the precipitated peroxide of lead,\nthe light being reflected through them from\nthe polished metallic surface beneath. By re-\nflected light, every prismatic color is visible,\nand by transmitted light a series of prismatic\ncolors complementary to the first series will\nappear, occupying the place of the former se-\nries. The colors are seen to the greatest per-\nfection by placing the plate before a window\nwith its back to the light, and holding a piece\nof white paper at such an angle as to be re-\nflected upon its surface. The colorations are-\nnot of a fugitive character, but will bear a con-\nsiderable amount of friction without being re-\nmoved. In proof of the lead oxide being depos-\nited in films or layers, if the deposit be allowed to\nproceed a few seconds beyond the time when\nits greatest beauties are exhibited, the colora-\ntion will be less marked, and become more or\nless red, green, or brown. If well rubbed when\ndry with the finger or fleshy part of the hand,\na rich blue colored film will be laid bare, by the\nremoval of the delicate film above it.\nThe discovery of this interesting electrolytic\nphenomenon is due to Nobili, who in the year\n1826 discovered that when a solution of acetate\nof lead was electrolyzed by means of a current\nfrom four to six Grove cells, a large platinum\nanode and a platinum wire cathode being em-\nployed, prismatic colors were produced upon\nthe anode surface; and when the platinum\nanode was placed horizontally in the acetate so-\nlution and the negative wire held vertically\nabove it, a series of rings in chromatic order\nwere produced. These effects subsequently\ntook the name of Nobili s rings, and the inter-","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0659.jp2"},"652":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n640\nEtching.\nesting- discovery induced Becquerel, Gassiot,\nand others to experiment in the same direction\nby varying- the strength of the current and\nemploying other solutions than the acetate of\nlead.\nBecquerel s Solution.— The following formu-\nla was suggested by Becquerel: Dissolve 200\ngrm. caustic potash in 2 qt. distilled water, add\n150 grm. litharge, boil the mixture for half an\nhour, and allow it to settle. Then pour off the\nclear liquor, and dilute it with its own bulk of\nwater.\nThe plan recommended by Mr. Gassiot to ob-\ntain the metallo-chromes is to place over the\nsteel plate a piece of card, cut into some regu-\nlar device, and over this a rim of wood, the\ncopper disk being placed above this. We have\nfound that very beautiful effects are obtained\nwhen a piece of fine copper wire is turned up\nin the form of a ring, star, cross, or other pat-\ntern, and connected to the positive electrode\nas before; indeed, this is one of the simplest\nand readiest methods of obtaining the colora-\ntions upon the polished metal. Metallo-chromy,\nas it is termed, is extensively employed in Nu-\nremberg to ornament metallic toys, the solution\nused being that suggested by Becquerel, namely,\na solution of the oxide of lead in caustic soda\nor potash. Metallo-chromy has also been\nadopted in France for coloring bells, and in\nSwitzerland for coloring the hands and dials of\nwatches. In using the lead solution to pro-\nduce metallo-chromes it must be remembered\nthat metallic lead becomes deposited upon the\ncathode; consequently the solutions in time\nbecome exhausted, and must therefore be re-\nnewed by tne addition of the lead salt.\nMetallo-chromes on Nickel-plated Surfaces.\nIt will be obvious that if metallo-chromy were\nonly applicable to platinum or steel surfaces,\nENGRAVING GLASS.\nwhich has generally been the case heretofore,\nthe usefulness of the process as a means of\nornamentation for industrial purposes would\nbe greatly restricted. While the production of\nthese colorations upon platinum foil would\nonly be effected for experimental purposes,\nthe application of the process to steel surfaces\nwould necessarily be of a limited character,\nowing to the unsuitableness of this metal as\ncompared with brass, German silver, and cop-\nper, for the manufacture of many articles of\nutility or ornament.\nEmpirical Formulae.— Formulae which\nshow only the components of a compound,\nwithout reference to their molecular arrange-\nment.\nEngraving Glass.— Well dried sand, con-\ntained in the cylindrical vessel, A, is allowed to\nflow in a continuous manner through the tube,\nC, whose length and inclination can be altered\nat will, so as to regulate the fall of the sand.\nThe tubes conveying the current of air or\nsteam terminates just above this spout, in a\nnozzle containing a series of fine holes. The\nsand, urged on by the jet, is thrown violently\nagainst the glass plate, E, or other body placed\nwithin its range, and thus exerts an abrading-\naction. By varying the quantity of the sand, the\nvolume and velocity of the current, as well as\nthe diameter of the jet, more or less rapid\neffects are produced. Holes may be drilled in\nglass and in substances much harder than glass\nby means of this apparatus. In engraving on\nglass very little pressure is needed, the current\nfrom the bellows of an enameler s lamp being\nquite sufficient. In this way the divisions on\ngraduated tubes, the labels on bottles, etc., can\neasily be engraved in laboratories with but\nlittle trouble. The portions of the glass which\nare to remain clear are covered with paper, or\nwith an elastic varnish, these substances being\nsufficient protection against the abrading action\nof the sand.\nEquivalent Weight.— A number repre-\nsenting the smallest proportion of an element\nwhich is equal in combining power to one atom\nof hydrogen.\nEtching Glass.— In the opaque etching of\nglass it has hitherto been thought necessary to\nuse certain expensive fluorine saits in the\npreparation of the etching solutions. It has\nquite recently been discovered by A. Lainer\nthat comparatively cheap etching can be pre-\npared. In Dingler s Polytechnisches Journal\nLainer gives two recipes which obviate the use\nof the more expensive fluorine salts.\n1. Two solutions are first prepared (a) Consist-\ning of 10 grm. of soda in 20 grm. of warm water;\n(b) consisting of 10 grm. potassium carbonate\nin 20 grm. of warm water. Solutions a and b\nare now mixed, and to the mixture is added 20\ngrm. of concentrated hydrofluoric acid, and\nafterward a solution (c) consisting of 10 grm. of\npotassium sulphate in 10 grm. of water is\nadded.\n2. This recipe contains the following ingre-\ndients Four c. c. of water, V/% grm. of potas-\nsium carbonate, 0*5 c. c. of dilute hydrofluoric\nacid, 5 c. c. of hydrochloric acid and 0*5 c. c.\nof potassium sulphate. This mixture is treated\nwith hydrofluoric acid and carbonate of potas-\nsium until it produces the required degree of\nopacity on being tried upon a piece of glass.\nLainer considers that the addition of a small\nquantity of hydrofluoric acid to solution 1\nbrings about a fine granulated appearance on\nthe surface that is treated with it. But it\nappears that there is a still simpler prpcess\nthan either of these it was invented by Herr\nKampmann, of Vienna. In preparing an\nopaque etching fluid Kampmann uses a wooden\nvessel, the iron fittings of which are protected\nfrom the corrosive action of the acid fumes by\na layer of asphaltous material. This vessel is\nfilled to about one-fifth of its contents with\nstrong hydrofluoric acid,whichisthen partially\nneutralized by cautiously and gradually adding\nsome crystals of soda more soda is added, and\nthe mixture is stirred with a small wooden rod.\nThe point at which the neutralization of the\nacid should cease is indicated by the mixture\nfrothing and becoming sufficiently viscid to\nadhere to the stirring rod. It is, perhaps, hardly\nnecessary to say that the acid fumes are highly\ninjurious and that this process should be car-","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0660.jp2"},"653":{"fulltext":"Food.\n641\nGilding.\nried on in the open air, in order to allow the\nvapor to pass rapidly away. The most hygienic\nand satisfactory process of all would be to\ncarry on the operation in a draught cup-\nboard.\nThe contents of this wooden vessel now con-\nsist of sodium fluoride and the unneutralized\nhydrofluoric acid. This mixture is now trans-\nferred to a wooden tub and diluted with from\nfive to ten times its volume of water, according\nto the degree of dilution that is desired. It is\nobjectionable to use this mixture in a too\nhighly concentrated condition, for then the\netched surface of the glass is irregular, coarse\ngrained, and apparently strewn with tiny crys-\ntals; if, on the other hand, the dilution be too\nextreme, the etched surfaces will be transparent\ninstead of opaque. Either of these two con-\nditions of the etching fluid can easily be\nremedied; for if it be too strong water must be\nadded, and if too weak a small quantity of\nhydrofluoric acid partially neutralized with\nsoda must be mixed in\nA good recipe for preparing a small quantity\nof this etching fluid is the following: 240 c. c.\ncommercial hydrofluoric acid, 600 grm. powder-\ned crystallized soda, 100 c. c. water.\nThese etching fluids are best used by taking\nthe following precautions: The glass is first\nthoroughly cleansed from all impurities, and is\nthen provided with a rim of wax composed of\nthe following ingredients Beeswax, tallow,\ncolophony and powdered asphalt kneaded to-\ngether. The rim prevents the acid from spread-\ning over those parts of the surface which it is\nnot desired to etch. The glass is now etched\nfor a few minutes with an ordinary etching\nsolution (H.F.— 1:10), which is then poured off,\nthe surface being afterward washed with water\nand wiped as dry as possible with a piece of\nsponge.\nThe surface is now ready for the opaque\netching fluid, which is poured on till it forms a\nthick layer. The operation is allowed to pro-\ngress for one hour, when the liquid is poured\naway and. the surface washed with water.\nWater is further allowed to stand on the glass\nuntil a thin film of silicate is observed to form;\nthis film is then brushed off and the surface\nfinally cleansed with water and the wax re-\nmoved.\nBy varying the action of this opaque etching\nfluid or paste various degrees of opacity may\nbe produced, and if the opacity be greater than\nthat which is desired, the surface can be cleared\nto any extent by using the etching solution of\nhydrofluoric acid.\nFood. The varieties of food may be classi-\nfied as follows\nf As eggs, muscle of\nNitrogen- I brutes,fish,f ruits,\nous. I vegetables, milk,\netc.\nNon-nitro- j Oils, fats, starch,\ngenous... j sugar, etc.\nI a. Mineral or saline matters, as\nInorganic. chloride of sodium, etc.\nb. Water.\nTo understand what to eat, when to eat and\nhow to eat, we must first look at some of the\n^lementary teachings of physiology.\nThe body of man consists of the following\nelements, in the proportions given. The table\nis by Marshall\nOxygen 72*0\nCarbon 13*5\nHydrogen 9 1\nNitrogen 25\nCalcium 13\nPhosphorus 1*15\nSulphur 0*1476\nSodium 0*1\nChlorine 0 85\nFluorine 0*08\nOrganic.\nPotassium 026\nIron o-01\nMagnesium 0012\nSilicon 0.0002\nThese exist for the most part in various com-\nbinations. Only three elements— oxygen, ni-\ntrogen and hydrogen— are found in the body\nin the free state, and these in very minute\namount.\nPercentage Composition of Various Articles\nof Food.— Letherby.\n37\n15\n14\n13\n18\nTo\nm\n91\n5\n23\n86\n66\n36\n72\n51\n72\n63\n39\n74\n78\n75\ni l\nIS\n52\n15\n91\n8-1\n12-6\n11-1\n6-3\n*2 i\n13\n1.2\n4 1\n2-7\n28-4\n19-3\n14 8\n18-3\n16 5\n9-8\n21-0\n18 1\n9-9\n161\n*n-4\nV\nSh\nss\n47-4\n58 4\n64 7\n791\n82-0\n18-8\n8-4\n5-1\np\nw\n36\n54\n0 4\n0-4\n32\n6-1\n21\n95-0\n77-0\n52\n28\nOS\n16\nIndian corn meal\nRice\n5 6 30\n8-11-7\n0 70 5\nArrowroot\n6-2 V7\nCarrots\nSugar\nMilk\nCream\nCheddar cheese\nLean beef\n0-2\n39\n26-7\n31 1\n36\nio\n0-6\n0-8\n10\n4-5\n51\nFat beef\n29-8 44\nLean mutton\n49\n158\n48 9\n3-8\n29\n13-8\n55\n30-7\n83 0\n4-8\nVeal\nFat pork\nPoultry\n4-7\n2-3\nWhite fish\n1\nEels\n1 3\nSalmon\nri\nWhite of egg\n1 6\nYelk of egg\n16*0\n6 i\n13\nButter and fats\n9,-Q\nBeer and porter\n8 7\n0-2\nOf the six constituents mentioned in the\nabove table the most valuable are albumen\nand salts. Water is useless as food, since it\nmay be taken equally well as common drink.\nStarch is converted in the body into sugar,\nand part of it is then converted into fat, and\nthe other part undergoes combustion, serving\nto maintain the body s heat. Fat enters into\nthe composition of fatty tissue and fluids, and\nthis in the system, by undergoing combustion,\nalso serves to maintain the temperature.\nGilding. Gilding Metal Surfaces.— A Mon-\nsieur P. A. Dode, of Rheims, has patented in\nFrance methods of gilding (both brilliant and\ndull or matte) wrought and cast iron and other\nmetal surfaces by means of sulphide of gold,\napplied either by brush or bath. His process\nconsists in covering the metal under treatment\nwith a thin yet solid coating of gold, present-\ning a very rich metallic appearance, and pro-\nduced without having recourse to burnishing\nor polishing.\nFirst Operation. Product No. 1.— I dissolve\na kilogramme of pure alum in a sufficient but\nthe smallest necessary quantity of water. When\nit is completely dissolved, I pour on to it a liter\nojc ammonia (alkali). The alum precipitates it-\nself into the form of a very thick jelly, and I\npour this precipitate on to a filter, in order to\ndraw off as much liquid as possible. The alum\nis next put into a porcelain capsule, and I add\n500 grm. of nitric acid, which has the property\nof redissolving the alum.\nThen I put, for dissolving, in another cap-\nsule 150 grm. of carbonate of cobalt, with 20J\ngrm. of nitric acid, and I assist the dissolving\nby the moderate heat of a sand bath. The dis-\nsolution being effected, I pour it upon the dis-\nsolved alum, and both being well mixed to-\ngether, I assist the complete evaporat iou of the","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0661.jp2"},"654":{"fulltext":"Gilding-.\n642\nGilding.\nacids by placing- the capsule upon a strongly\nheated sand hath. I collect and pound the\nproduce and calcine it in a crucible by a strong-\nheat before using it in the following composi-\ntion\nProduct No. 2.— I melt in a crucible exposed\nto a brisk fire the subjoined composition, thor-\noughly mixed\nKilos. Grammes.\nProduct No. 1 600\nOrange oxide of lead 3 200\nBoric acid 800\nFinely powdered white\nglass 200\n4 800\nThe melting being effected, I pour it into cold\nwater, and afterward dry and grind the pro-\nduct by the means employed for grinding\nenamels. Spirits of turpentine are used in the\noperation of grinding, which must be con-\ntinued until a considerable degree of fineness\nis obtained, in order to facilitate the working.\nIf the product be too thick, the quantity of\nturpentine necessary to reduce it may be\nadded.\nProduct No. 3. I dissolve in a porcelain cap-\nsule:\nPure gold 100 grm.\nMuriatic acid 200 grm.\nNitric acid 100 grm.\nI effect the dissolving of this by a moder-\nately heated sand bath, and then add 2 grm. of\npure tin and 2 grm. of arsenious acid. I evap-\norate about of the acids, leave the mixture\nto cool, and then add 150 grm. of distilled water.\nThis solution is placed aside, and I then pro-\nceed to the following operation\nProduct No. 4.— I put into a glass retort 150\ngrm. of turpentined balsam of sulphur, con-\ntaining 20$ of sulphur (as is usually prepared\nby pharmaceutical chemists), 40 grm. of Venice\nturpentine, 200 grm. ol essential oil of lavender.\n1 heat this mixture in a sand bath until the\nliquid attains a deep red color, at which point I\nremove it and allow it to cool. When cooled, I\npour the mixture into a porcelain capsule, and\nthen slowly pour the Product No. 3, taking\ncare to stir thoroughly and constantly the\nProduct No. 4 with a glass spatula. Owing to\nthe difficulty of slowly pouring- with one hand\nand stirring strongly with the other, I employ\nassistance in this operation. When the Pro-\nduct No. 3 is poured out there becomes formed\nin the No. 4 capsule a very stiff substance of a\nrich bright brown color. If the desired color\nbe n bt at once obtained, I slowly warm the\nmixture, stirring it all the while, and I remove\nit from the bath direct^ after I observe that\nthe desired change is effected. When the\nabove indicated condition is reached I let\nthe product cool, as the gold has then\nseparated from the acids. After becom-\ning cool, I extract, as far as possible, the\nacids, and place the mixture aside until the\nnext day. I again extract what little acid may\nhave become separated, and then, without\ntroubling myself about the small amount\nof acid left in the product, I pour upon it, drop\nby drop, taking care to stir strongly as long as\nI notice a reaction, 50 grm. ox ammonia (alkali),\nbut this quantity is not always necessary.\nThe mixture is effected very easily. I allow\nit to remain two hours, and then I pour upon\nthis product 300 grm. of essential oil of laven-\nder. I then heat slightly, for the purpose of\nmixing thoroughly, and leave to cool. Then I\nfilter the product by means of a paper filter,\nwhich I take care to steep in the oil of lavender\nin order to render it impermeable to water.\nThe golden liquid passes throug-h, while the\nammoniacal water remains on the filter, and\nthe product thus obtained is ready for use on\nleaving the filter.\nMany other methods for obtaining gold in\nthis state have been described and applied to\nporcelain, pottery and glass, but are imperfect\nfor application to metals, and, after having\ntried them, I have been obliged to return to\nmy own formula. It is not, however, this for-\nmula that 1 have the intention to patent, but\nthe application of brilliant or dull gilding to\nmetal, without burnishing or polishing, by\nmeans of baths, or applied by the brush with\npure or alloyed gold, in suspension or dis-\nsolution, in fatty substances or essential oils,\naccording to the requirements of the desired\napplications.\nTo obtain brilliant gilding upon wrought or\ncast iron, copper, and other metals, it is neces-\nsary to proceed as follows The objects to be\noperated upon should be very clean, free from\noxidation or any foreign substances; the ob-\njects being in such condition are slightly\nwarmed to remove all humility; then a brush\nis dipped into the Product No. 2, and the ob-\njects are coated, taking care to cover the same\nthoroughly of an even thickness, that is to say,\nthe thickness technically known in oil painting\nas a round coating of color. The objects thus\ncovered are next placed in a closet to preserve\nthem from dust, and there left for some hours\nto dry; afterward they are placed for heating\nin an oven similar to those used by enainelers.\nand of a size appropriate to the objects treated,\nOn their withdrawal from the oven the ob-\njects will have assumed a very brilliant blue-\nblack aspect. After cooling they are ready for\nreceiving the gilding, which is obtained by\ndipping a brush into the golden liquid (Pro-\nduct No. 4), and evenly covering the objects\nwith a very thin coating. They are then allow-\ned to dry for some hours, protected from the\ndust, and then they are again heated in the\noven as previously described, care being taken\nto heat the objects gradually, in order to pre-\nvent the blistering of the gold. The trans-\nformation is seen to take place by the objects\nchanging their blue-black tint and becoming\nyellow and brilliant. It is at this point they\nshould be drawn from the oven, when will be-\ncome apparent the beauty and solidity of the\ngilding, which is more solid and more brilliant\nthan any gilding, either by mercury or by the\nbattery.\nIn order to obtain dull or matte gilding, it\nsuffices to put on a very thin coating of the\nProduct No. 2, so that it may remain matte, for\nthe brilliancy is solely due to the degree of\nthickness of this coating. The objects remain-\ning dull, the gilding will be dull.\nShould it be desired to avoid the use of the\nProduct No. 2, and nevertheless obtain a bril-\nliant gilding, this may be accomplished by first\npolishing the objects by the ordinary means of\nthe tool or lathe.\nThe coating of gold when applied to polished\nmetals becomes brilliant, but it is neces-\nsary to apply a thicker- coating upon cast\niron, which is more porous, and matte or dull\ngilding is in like manner obtained upon rough\nmetal; still it is always advantageous to make\nuse of the Product No. 2, because it will econo-\nmize three-fourths of the gold used upon plain\nmetal. As must be observed, this application\nis one of facility and simplicity, and at the\nsame time not costly.\nLetters, to Gild. When the sign is pre-\npared as smooth as possible, go over it with a\nsizing made by white of an egg dissolved in\nabout four times its weight of cold water, add-\ning a small quantity of fuller s earth; this to\nprevent the gold sticking to any part but let-\nters. When dry, set out the letters and com-\nmence writing, laying on the size as thinly as\npossible, with a sable pencil. Let it stand un-\ntil you can hardly feel a slight stickiness; then\ngo to work with your gold leaf knife and cush-\nion, and gild the letters. Take a leaf upon the\npoint of your knife, after giving it a slight puff\ninto the back part of your cushion, and spread","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0662.jp2"},"655":{"fulltext":"Glyptic.\n643\nMonaiuinc.\nit on the front part of it as straight as possible;\ngive it another slight puff with your mouth to\nflatten it out. Now cut it to the proper size,\ncutting with the heel of your knife forward.\nNow rub the tip of the knife lightly on your\nhair; take up the gold on the point, and place\nit neatly on the letters; when they are all cov-\nered, get some very fine cotton wool, and\ngently rub the fold until it is smooth and\nbright. Then wash the sign with clean water\nto take off the egg size.\nGlyptic Formulae.— A system of formulae\nmainly used for lecture demonstration, and\nconsisting of colored balls representing atoms,\nand pegs representing the theoretical bonds of\nattachment by which the balls may be con-\nnected together, and a representation of the\ni ormation of compounds shown.\nGravity, Specific. -^The following was re-\nceived too late to be put in under Gravity, Spe-\ncific, which see for additional information.\nSpecific Gravity. Determination of Specific\nGravity.\nSolids.— 1. Solids heavier than, and insoluble\nin, water.—\na. By weighing in air and water.—\n(weight in air)\nSp. gr.=\n(loss of weight in water)\nb. By Nicholson s hydrometer. Letit jbethe\n■weight required to sink the instrument to the\nmark on the stem, the weight of the instru-\nment being W to take the specific gravity of\nany solid substance, place a portion of it\nweighing less than wj, in the upper pan, with\nsuch additional weight, say w 3 as will cause\nthe instrument to sink to the zero mark. The\nweight of the substance is then w^ w 3 Next\nf-ransfer the substance to the lower pan, and\n.again adjust with weight w t to the zero mark.\nW] iv 3\nSp. gr.\nSp. gr.\n(sp. gr. of liquid)\n(weight of substance in air)\niv 4 —w 3\nc. By the specific gravity bottle (applicable to\npowders). Weigh the flask filled to the mark\nwith water, then place the substance, of known\nweight, in the flask, fill to the mark with water,\nand weigh again.\n(weight of substance in air) (weight\nof flask and water) (weight of flask\nand water and substance)\n•Sp. gr.\n(weight of substance in air)\n2. Solids lighter than, and insoluble in,\nwater. The solid is weighted by a piece of\nlead of known specific gravity and weighed in\nwater.\n(weight of substance in air)\nSp. gr.\n(weight of lead in water) (weight\nof lead and substance in water)\n(weight of substance in air)\n3. Solids heavier than, and soluble in,\nwater. Proceed as in 1 a, using instead of\nwater some liquid without action on the\nsolid.\n(weight of bulk of liquid equal to substance)\n(weight of substance in air)— (weight of sub-\nstance in liquid).\n(weight of bulk of\nliquid equal to sub-\nstance) x (sp. gr. of\n(weight of bulk of water water)\nequal to substance)\n(weight of bulk of water equal to sub-\nstance)\nLiquids.— 1. By the hydrometer.\n2. By the specific gravity bottle.\nWeisrh the bottle filled to the mark with\nwater, and again when filled to the mark with\nliquid.\n(weight of liquid and bottle) (weight\nof bottle)\nSp. gr.\n(weight of water and bottle) (weight\nof bottle)\nHomologous.— An expression used in or-\nganic chemistry in connection with certain\nseries of compounds, each member of which\ndiffers from the preceding member by an addi-\ntion of CH 2\nHydracid.— A term generally applied to\nsuch acids as HCI, HBr, HI, andHF, consisting\nof hydrogen united to a haloid element, and\nhaving no oxygen in their composition.\nKetone.— An organic compound derived\nfrom the oxidation of a secondary alcohol, in\nthe same way that an aldehyde is produced\nfrom the oxidation of a primary alcohol.\nLeather.— English Oak Stain for Bottoms of\nBoots and Shoes- The process used by the best\nEnglish shoe manufacturers to stain our hem-\nlock and union sole, so that it shall resemble\nEnglish oak, is simply as follows: Take equal\nquantities, say 1 oz., of borax and oxalic acid,\nand put in 1 qt. of water. Be sure the acid\ndoes not predominate, and in some cases a\nvery little more of the borax will be better.\nThen, when the shoe goes to the finishers, after\nsandpapering the bottom, when dry, dampen\ndown or wet the grain with this solution, and,\nwhen nearly dry, apply French chalk or pipe\nclay in the usual way. This brings out a white\nbottom, finely tinted with a shade of pink. If\nmore yellow, and not so much red, is wanted,\nput in a little turmeric root or chrome yel-\nlow. Care must be taken that the sole is not\nafterward wet while in stock, or the hemlock\ncolor will come out again.\nWhite Bottom Finish on Shoes.— Preparations\ncan be purchased in findings stores to do this.\nCouple of formulas are as follows: French\nchalk, 2J4 lb.; 3 oz. yellow ocher; hot water to\nmake a paste, which should be well mixed, then\nreduced with 4 qt. water, made sky blue with\nlaundry blue; 1 tablespoonf ul strong dissolved\noxalic acid; 2 qt. thin dissolved gum traga-\ncanth; first coat should be allowed to dry be-\nfore the application of the second. Or the fol-\nlowing: French chalk, 1 lb.; y% lb. common\nchalk, y% lb. alcohol, 6 pt. sky blue water, a tea-\nspoonful of dissolved oxalic acid, dissolved\ngum tragacanth to suit.\nMetameric. —A term applied to those or-\nganic compounds Avhich possess the same per-\ncentage composition and the same vapor den-\nsity, but which differ in physical properties\nand behave dissimilarly under the action of re-\nagents.\nMolecular Formulae. Formulae which\nshow molecules as taking part in chemical re-\naction, in contradistinction to formulas in\nwhich atoms only are shown.\nMolecular Weight. The weight of a\nmolecule of an element or compound. The\nmolecular weights of the elements are twice\ntheir atomic weights, with the exception of\nphosphorus and arsenic, whose molecules con-\ntain four atoms, and of mercury and a few\nother volatile metals whose molecules contain\nonly one atom. The molecular weight of a\ncompound is the aggregate weight of its con-\nstituent atoms.\nMolecule.— The smallest part of an ele-\nment, or compound, which is capable of exist-\nence in the free state.\nMolymeric— A term used in organic chem-\nistry to denote the fact of certain compounds\npossessing the same percentage composition,\nbut having different vapor densities.\nMonamine.— An amine regarded as de-\nrived from one molecule of ammonia by the re-","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0663.jp2"},"656":{"fulltext":"monobasic.\n644\nPhotography.\nplacement of a hydrocarbon group, or hydro-\ncarbon groups, for a corresponding number of\nhydrogen atoms.\nMonobasic— A term used to define acids\ncontaining one atom of hydrogen, replacable\nby a base to form a salt.\nMonad.— An element or compound radical,\nwhose combining power is equal to that of one\natom of hydrogen.\nMonatomic- Having an equal combining\npower to that possessed by one atom of hydro-\ngen.\nOleomargarine. See Oils (Butterine) in\nthe body of the Cyclopedia.\nOxidized or Antique Silver. The\ncolor known as oxidized silver is obtained as\nfollows:\n1. The silver-plated object is brushed with\na earners hair brush and a solution of platinum\nchloride in sulphuric ether, alcohol or cold\nwater.\n2. The following solution is then applied on\nit in the same manner:\nSulphate of copper 2 parts in weight.\nPotassic nitrate 1 dissolve in\nAmnionic hydrochlorate. 2 f acetic acid.\n3. The ammonic hydrosulphate, concentrated\nor dilute, gives a more or less deep shade.\n4. Sulphurous vapors give a steel-blue shade.\nThe parts which must not be touched should be\nprotected by a coating.\n5. Nitric acid alone produces the superficial\noxidiatzion of silver.\nPaint.— To Reduce Oil Paints with Water.\nTake 4 lb. pure unslaked lime; add 6 qt. water;\nafter stirring it, allow it to settle, after which,\nit should be turned off and bottled and kept\ncorked till used. This is mixable with oil and\nwill preserve paint in proportion of half.\nLuminous Paints in all Colors.— A German\ncontemporary gives the following series of re-\nceipts for these paints, which may prove use-\nful. Aid of these paints can be used in the\nmanufacture of colored papers, etc., if the\nvarnish is altogether omitted, and the dry mix-\ntures are ground to a paste with water. The\nluminous paints can also be used as wax colors\nfor painting on glass and similar objects, by\nadding, instead of the varnish, 10$ more of\nJapanese wax and the quantity of the latter\nof olive oil. The wax colors prepared in this\nway may also be used for painting upon porce-\nlain, and are then carefully burned without ac-\ncess of air. Paintings of this kind can also be\ntreated with water glass.\nFor orange luminous paint, 46 parts varnish\nare mixed with 17 5 parts prepared barium sul-\nphate, 1 part prepared Indian yellow, 1 5 parts\nprepared madder lake, and 38 parts luminous\ncalcium sulphide.\nFor yellow luminous paint, 48 parts varnish\nare mixed with 10 parts barium sulphate, 8\nparts barium chromate, and 34 parts luminous\ncalcium sulphide.\nFor green luminous paint, 48 parts varnish\nare mixed with 10 parts prepared barium sul-\nphate, 8 parts chromium oxide green, and 34\nparts luminous calcium sulphide.\nA blue luminous paint is prepared from 42\nparts varnish, 10 2 parts prepared barium sul-\nphate, 6*4 parts ultramarine blue, 5*4 parts co-\nbalt blue, and 46 parts luminous calcium sul-\nphide.\nA violet luminous paint is made from 42\nparts varnish, 10,*2 parts prepared barium sul-\nphate, 2 8 parts ultramarine violet, 9 parts co-\nbaltous arsenate, and 36 parts luminous calcium\nsulphide.\nPor gray luminous paint, 45 parts of the var-\nnish are mixed with 6 parts prepared barium\nsulphate, 6 parts prepai ed calcium carbonate,\n0 5 part ultramarine blue, 6*5 parts gray zinc\nsulphide.\nA yellowish brown luminous paint is obtained\nfrom 48 parts varnish, 10 parts precipitated\nbarium sulphate, 8 parts auripigment, and 34\nparts luminous calcium sulphide.\nLuminous colors for artists 1 use are prepared\nby using pure East India poppy oil, in the\nsame quantity, instead of the varnish, and\ntaking particular pains to grind the materials\nas iine as possible.\nFor luminous oil color paints, equal quanti-\nties of pure linseed oil are used in place of the\nvarnish. The linseed oil must be cold pressed\nand thickened by heat.\nPhotograph y —Copying Daguerreotypes.\nFirst remove the plate carefully from the\nmount and pass a camel s hair brush over the\nsurface and clean it as directed in Cleaning.\nAfter it is cleaned it may be copied in the fol-\nlowing manner: It must be placed in a good\nlight. If a top light, the plate must be placed\nsideways, so that the vertical light may fall in\nthe direction of what are called the buff marks\nacross the plate. If a side light, then of course\nthe plate must be fixed upright. Placed in the\nsun at a proper angle gives the best of all illu-\nmination, if convenient to be had. The picture\nhaving been arranged, place the camera as for\ncopying a photograph, using a rapid rectilinear\nlens and medium stop, and to avoid reflections\nin front, a piece of cardboard about a foot\nsquare, covered with black velvet, having an\nopening just showing the glass of the lens.\nThis will very effectually prevent all reflection\non the polished surface. Use a slow landscape\nplate, not a rapid one, for in all cases the slower\nthe better are the results obtained. Great care\nshould be taken in remounting the daguerreo-\ntype; it must be bound round with gummed\npaper to prevent air getting in between the\nthe plate and the glass. If it does, it will soon\nshow signs of tarnishing. When well done, a\nnew lease of existence will be secured.\nNegatives.— This may be done either by con-\ntract or by aid of the camera. Of course the\nresultant picture is a positive. With the\ncamera, an enlarging camera can be used or\nan ordinary one. With the latter the best way\nis to block out a window, leaving space enough\nonly to insert the negative, placing a piece of\nfine and uniformly ground glass about 1 in-\nfrom it on the outside.\nSilver Prints.— Place the photograph to be\ncopied in an upright position by pinning to a\ndrawing board, and stand this on a table. If\nyou do not wish to use pins, an ordinary print-\ning frame with a alass bed answers very well*\ncare being taken that there are no scratches,\netc., on the glass. Contrary to theory of the\nnecessity of a front light, use an oblique\nside light, and the resultant negatives are\npractically free from grain. The camera\nshould focus from the back, in order to\nobtain an accurate focus. The lens needed\nis a rapid rectilinear, of sufficient size to cover\nwell the size of the plate to be used, and use\nslow plates. If rapid plates are used, it is es-\nsential that the emulsion should be rich in sil-\nver and plenty of it on the plate.\nOil Paintings.— Require more care, and they\nalways should be lighted from the same side as\nin the picture— not the reverse. The very best\neffects are obtained by using orthochromatic\nplates of medium rapidity. The yellow screen\nmust also be used with ordinary plates to ob-\ntain any results that will prove satisfactory.\nBut if possible, use the orthochromatic. In re-\ngard to the length of time required for the ex-\nposure, experience must alone determine this,\nfor the exposure must vary very much, the\ncolors of the subject, the actinic power of the\nlight, and the rapidity of the plate being the\nfactors that decide the question. Anyhow,\ngive enough.\nBy Gas Light, Oil, Magnesium.— Copying can\nalso be done by the aid of gas light, oil lamps\nand magnesium, the latter being very effective.\nIn all cases, except when made by contact, at-\ntention should be had to the proper adjust-\nments of reflectors and screens. Counterfeit","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0664.jp2"},"657":{"fulltext":"Photograph y\n645\nPhotography.\nand raised checks, etc., have been detected by\ncopying- and enlarging- the same, showing very\nplainly the original figures and names under\nthe false.\nDark Room. The room— too Often a closet-\nin which all the operations requiring the actual\nhandling of the sensitive plate must be con-\nducted. It should be of sufficient size to enable\nthe operator to move about in comfortably,\nand to give orderly place for all the various\narticles necessary in the different manipulations\nthat may be required in sensitizing and develop-\nment, or whenever any work is to be done re-\nquiring a non-actinic light. A room smaller\nthan 8x10 1 believe to be objectionable in very\nmany, if not in all respects, both to the operator\nand the operations therein conducted. It can-\nnot be kept in a state of cleanliness, which is\nabsolutely indispensable for first-class work. It\ncannot be properly ventilated, and at an\nequable temperature at all times, to say nothing\nof the bottles and the various other articles\nnecessary in the proper development and care\nof the plates. The dark room should always be\nkept warm, never, if possible, below 60 degrees\nF., and this, in cold weather, can always be\ndone by one of the many coal oil stoves made\nexpressly for heating purposes. The opening\nto the dark room should be through two doors\nnearly opposite each other, and opening differ-\nently, with a partial partition between them,\nthus cutting off all chance of light entering the\nroom while at work, and yet allowing a\nthorough cleaning of the room when necessary.\nHave the shelves arranged around the room\nand of a sufficient number to enable one to\nhave a place for everything, and thereby every-\nthing in its place. The top shelves for stock\nsolutions, and a careful watch kept en them\nthat there is enough and to spare at all times.\nThe middle shelves to be occupied with con-\nvenient size bottles of various dilute solutions\nfor every day use, and are to be kept filled from\nthe stock solutions on the upper shelves, but\nkeep the different solutions separate. It is con-\nvenient to have the lower shelf at least three\nfeet from the floor and somewhat broader than\nthe other shelves. A small shelf or a rack, about\nthe level of the eye, on either side of the\nsink, should hold the graduate measures and\nstirring rods. Upon the table itself should be\narranged only the dishes, trays, etc., in actual\nuse at the time. Trays, large and small, to be\nkept in racks beneath the table, according to\ntheir uses, and should be properly labeled.\nThe sink should be at right angles to the table,\nat least 36x22 inches, and supplied with a good\ndrain pipe. If possible, it should be of iron,\nporcelain lined, but a good one can be made\nof sufficiently thick wood lined with heavy\nsheet copper or zinc. The plugs to the drain\npipe should fit tightly. On either side of the\nsink, a shelf slightly inclined should be fasten-\ned to hold trays, etc., and let the shelf on the\nfurther side from the table be always devoted\nto the clearing (fixing) bath, and for no other\npurpose, thus keeping the danger of contami-\nnation by hypo, at the minimum. Under the\nsinks racks are to be placed to dry trays, etc.\nIf there be no regular supply of water by\nthe ordinary pipe, a small keg will have to be\nplaced a sufficient height, but not too high, to\ngive a good force to the flow of water, which\nmay be directed to any spot desired by attach-\ning a rubber tube to the spigot in the keg, and\nthe flow regulated by a spring clip.\nFor Illumination. —Daylight, gas, lamp, elec-\ntrical (incandescent) light can be used, provid-\ned it is properly protected by a shade or cover-\ning of some non-actinic material (glass, medium,\nor paper). The day of the ruby has in a great\nmeasure passed, since it has been found that a\nsafe and decidedly more pleasant light can be\nobtained with other equally if not better non-\nactinic colors. Some combine with the ruby,\ncanary or sunflower tint, others green, etc.\nBut it will be wise to test the screens from\ntime to time as to their safety. The dark room\nshould be dark only to the actinic blue and\nviolet rays of light, but illuminated enough by\nthe non-actinic yellow and red rays to be en-\nabled to see everything that is to be seen with-\nout strain to the eyes, and, in fact, pleasant to\nthe operator. Should the room have one or\nmore windows, block out all but one or two\npanes with some black material of sufficient\nthickness to exclude all light. The uncovered\npane can be covered by three or more thick-\nnesses of tissue paper of sunflower tint, held\nin its place with an additional pane of glass\nfastened to the frame. This will be found to\ngive a safe enough light, and plenty of it, if it\nis desirable to work by daylight.\nVentilation.— It is extremely important that\nthe dark room should be thoroughly ventilated\nat all times and to assist in this, many are in\nthe habit of using the heat generated by the\nlantern, extending the chimney of the same in\nthe shape of a long pipe, and thus creating a\ncurrent of air out of the dark room.\nDevelopers. Guaiacol (methyl catechol),when\nmixed with sodium carbonate or caustic soda,\nacts as a developer, and gives harmonious\nnegatives, which have a yellowish brown tint,\nand print fairly well. The developer is slow in\nits action it has a strong but not unpleasant\nsmell.— J. Waterhouse, Phot. J., xiv., 161.\nThe Para-Amidophenol Developer.— We first\nmixed up a developer, according to the form-\nula advised by Lumiere, of Paris, in the follow-\ning proportions:\nWater 7M oz.\nSodium sulphite oz\nCarbonate of potash 160 grn.\nPara-amidophenol 15 grn.\nThe water was about 65° F.; it required a long\ntime to dissolve the salt, which appeared to be\nthe only drawback.\nWe tried printing a transparency on a mod-\nerately rapid plate in contact from a negative,\nfirst giving a fraction of a second s exposure\nto weak daylight; second, by five seconds ex-\nposure, three feet away from a flat gas light;\nthird, by a second s exposure, four feet away\nfrom the same light and fourth, by a second s\nexposure, six feet away.\nIn the first and second trials the moment the\nplate touched the developer it darkened over\nat once completely, the whole of the image be-\ning covered with fog. In the third case a fairly\ngood overexposed positive was obtained, while\nthe fourth was a trifle undertimed and weak,\nthough remarkably clear in the high lights.\nThe same effect was observed in the develop-\nment of bromide paper. A fifth and latter\nexperiment with another solution, containing:\nno alkali, on a slow Eastman plate, produced a\nmuch better positive.\nThe conclusion arrived at was that the devel-\noper contained too much alkali for time ex-\nposures, but might be adapted for those that\nare instantaneous. At another time we tried\ndissolving 10 grn. of the Para salt in 5 oz. of\nwater, at a temperature of 60° F. After sev-\neral minutes of rapid stirring with a glass rod\nonly about one quarter seemed to disappear.\nWe then heated the solution in a water bath\nuntil it reached 100° F., and after stirring for\nAve minutes were successful in dissolving it.\nThe solution was now filtered and was as clear\nand limpid as water, having- a very slight pur-\nplish brown cast by reflected light.\nHaving been successful in developing plates\nwith simple eikonogen, without the addition\nof carbonate potash as an alkali, we tried the\nexperiment of exposing behind the same nega-\ntive a slow Eastman transparency plate three\nfeet away from a gas burner lor five seconds.\nWe poured over it a solution made as fol-\nlows\nWater 5 oz.\nSodium sulphite J^OZ.\nPara amido phenol 10 grn.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0665.jp2"},"658":{"fulltext":"Photography\n646\nPhotography.\nIn about fifteen seconds the image began to\nappear, and in one and one-halt minute devel-\nopment was complete. On examining- the\ntransparency by daylight we found that it\ncould have gained a little more needed density\nby remaining a few minutes longer in the de-\nveloper. We recommend the above formula\nfor slide making. It yields clear glass, where\nneeded, in the high lights of slides: also gives a\npleasing purplish tone, and is suitable for over-\nexposed plates.\nTo further test its developing qualities we\nmade two exposures on two of Cramer s 40\nplates (4x5), in the camera on a rainy day with\na small stop f-128, one of a second, and another\nof half a second.\nOn this the above developer, without alkali,\nacted quite slow, it being very nearly three\nminutes before the sky portion began to make\nits appearance. We accordingly commenced\nadding in small quantities a solution of carbon-\nate of potash, as small as we thought was suffi-\ncient to accelerate the developing action, and\nobtained 2 negatives of good quality, having\nample density in the sky, with an abundance\nof detail in the darker portions, and shadows\nof remarkable clearness. It took about ten\nminutes for each plate. The solution thus\ncompounded for rapid exposures stood when\nwe finished about as follows\nWarm water 1 oz.\nSodium sulphite (cryst.) 48 grn.\nPara amidophenol 2 grn.\nCarbonate of potash 6 grn.\nFor extreme short exposures the potash may\nbe increased up to 20 or 24 grn. to the oz.\nFor developing slow plates for time work, Dr.\nCharles Ehrmann recommends the following\nDistilled hot water, 150° F 10 oz.\nSodium sulphite (cryst.) 1^ oz.\nPara amidophenol 48 grn.\nCarbonate of potash J^ oz.\nIf kept at 65° Fah., none of the Para will\ncrystallize out. It will be noticed that high\ntemperature makes a solution more than\ntwice as powerful in the Para salt than the\none at which it was 100° Fah. The developer\ncan be made to produce opaque blacks in the\nnegative and leave the shadows crisp and clear\nand free from fog of any kind. Ten ounces\nwill develop nearly two dozen ay 2 x8}4 plates;\nany slowing up of the developer can be com-\npensated for by the additon of the potash solu-\ntions. It retains its clearness perfectly, even if\nexposed for some time in an open graduate,\nand after use in development changes to a\nlight lemon yellow color.\nAnother merit is that it does not stain the\nfingers, and is therefore the par excellence of\ndevelopment for ladies and others. It is a\nquick acting developer, becomes less easily\nexhausted than any other, and will not chemi-\ncally stain the film. It is remarkable, even\nby long developers, how perfectly clean and\nwhite the unexposed portions of the negatives\nkeep. It is advisable to filter in developer\noccasionally. We commend the developer to\nall amateurs wishing to obtain, easily, good\nresults, and regard it as an advance in the\nright direction.— F. C. Beach in American\nAmateur Photographer.\nOrthochromatic Collodion Emulsion.— Dr. A.\nJonas has just published one of the most strik-\ning and important papers relating to ortho-\nchromatic work which has appeared for many\nyears. For some time a special color sensitive\ncollodion, manufactured by Dr. E. Albert, of\nMunich, has held the front rank for the repro-\nduction of colored objects, paintings, etc. Its\nchief characteristics are extraordinarily high,\ngeneral and color sensitiveness, and the fact\nthat no yellow screen is necessary for use with\nthe same, the emulsion being so little sensitive\ncomparatively to blue. Dr. Jonas has now\npublished a process which has the same char-\nacteristics, and the following is the method of\nmaking the emulsion, which might well be\nundertaken by chemists, and could be supplied\nto amateurs and professionals, and also to those\nhouses who make a specialty of copying pic-\ntures. In Germany it is sold at $3.00 the half\nliter, or $5.50 per liter, with the special dye sol-\nutions $0.25 per c. c. extra, and the developer at\n$0.65 per liter. The raw or plain collodion is\nmade as follows\nSolution 1.—\nAmmonium bromide 64 grm.\nDistilled water 80 c. c.\nAbsolute alcohol 800 c. c.\nThick collodion, 4$ 1,500 c. c.\nAcetic acid 65 c. c.\nDissolve the bromide in the water by the aid\nof heat; then add the alcohol, collodion, and\nacetic acid, and shake well.\nSolution 2.—\nSilver nitrate, crystal 80 grm.\nDistilled water 50 c. c.\nDissolve by heat, and add, drop by drop,,\nliquid ammonia 0 91, till the brown precipitate\nfirst formed is again redissolved (about 72-75\nc. e. are required). Then add 800 c. c. of absolute\nalcohol, heated to 45° C.\nNow, in the dark room, add solution 2 to sol-\nution 1 very gradually, shaking between each,\naddition keep solution 2 at a temperature of\n40-50° C. during the mixing, by placing the\nbottle in hot water. With the above quantity\nthe mixing should take from ten to fifteen\nminutes. When mixed, a drop of the emulsion\nis placed on a glass plate, a drop or two of water\nadded, and tested by litmus paper. It should\ngive an acid reaction, and, if alkaline, more\nacetic acid added to the emulsion, which should\nbe well shaken for fifteen minutes, allowed to\nstand for an hour, and then poured in a thin\nstream into five or six times the volume of\nwater. The bromide of silver collodion is, of\ncourse, precipitated, and should be collected\non a clean linen cloth, the ends of which are\ntied together so as to form a bag, and this\nplaced in running water for one or two hours\nto wash. The emulsion is then pressed gently\nto remove the excess of watar, placed on a\nthick pad of pure filter paper to dry, which\ntakes one or two days. When absolutely dry,\nwhich may be known by breaking one or two-\nof the larger pieces of emulsion up, it may be\npreserved indefinitely in a bottle in an absolute-\nly dark place, or may be used to form the raw\ncollodion as follows\nDry bromide silver collodion. 6 grm.\nAbsolute alcohol 40 c. c.\nEther 63 c. c.\nDissolve by frequent shaking.\nTo make this collodion color sensitive, dye\nsolutions are added just before using. The\nsolutions are made as follows\n1. Eosin Silver Solution.—\nEosin, crystal 4 grm.\nDistilled water 50 c. c.\nAlcohol, 9556 450 c. c.\n2. Silver Solution.—\nSilver nitrate 3 4 grm.\nDistilled water 50 c. c.\nDissolve and add solution of ammonia till the\nprecipitate first formed is redissolved, and\nadd—\nAlcohol, 96$S, to make 200 c. c.\n3. Ammonium Picrate Solution.—\nPicric acid 3 grm.\nDistilled water 10 grm.\nAmmonia solution, q. s. to ex-\nactly neutralize alcohol, 96#,\nto ...300 c. c.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0666.jp2"},"659":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n647\nPhotography.\nD\n5T\nI— 1 Cfi\na\n_ ST\nCD 3 a\n•-j\nO On O On O On OOi^ W to O\no-o\nD\ni m\ni 5?\nCD\n*2\nto\n3 O*\nat\n3\nS\n5 r\nrt)\nO w\na\nB l\n1\nWU) W N M w w H w\n^4 00 O ON OOOn h OvOO CC^J\n4^-\ncrZ-.\np*\nt p\nen\nOO O Oo OO OU) C 0 O Oo o\n3\nj^\nUl M 10 10 H H h\nnT\nOvi* m OCOi to O CC^J ^J O O\nOn\nO-D\na\ncr 1\noooooooooiokimo\n5\nj* o»\nW N N M M H H\n•-S\nJ5°\nOi N O^l 1^1 to O^IM OOLtU\nrT\no\nooooooooooooo\n5\na\n•o\n-t o\no ii,\ntO H M M H M\no-\n•-•NO^Ui tO O CO O O On On -f-\nr*\nt\ni\nM\na\nWOO to O OOMOi O^J to O Oo\n5\nO.2.\nocra\no\nM M 1H M M\nCO O On OO i-iO^ 10n0n-J -l^-U00\nCO\na\ntjl\n-l M\nO O O MW* O OCUl h «3\\ N^O\na\no\nW En\n•M\nH H H H H\n2\n6\nv o,\nO On O. O CCOOn-k--S»-J OOOo\nw\nH\nw\n£3\nD\no\ncoo-f- cco4». ao a-Ps o coj\n3*\nP5\npo\no\n5\n•fl\no\nM M W M\no\n3 5\nr z\nVo\n2\nUUi to O O M O^-t- U W W U)\n0000000 ON) MS+. o\n5\n11\n2.o\n00\nCu\np\n-l c\n►-1 1-1\nOO tO O O 00 OUl OJOJ WU 10\nM\nS.p\ni-« i-i i-r\n3*\n►1\n0000 OOtOO Oi H OMW OO\n3\nEn*\no\no\nD O\nl^ »-t O CC-vJ OMJI ooUlOo W tO tO\nto\nH)M\n5*\nSO P\nO oo OO OU O O ^-J Oo OO o\np\nj:\n!J»—\nB*\nHI M\nC w\n1/3\n•H o O CO OUl AOJ w w to to to\nr*\noo\nM\n3\nD\n0+. w h m OM OOJ OO o-^\np\nin\nO\n+*t\nM\nO O CO-sJ Ol/t o Oo Oo to to to to\nc\nt-t\n2.\n-4\n5\nO CO O OlOl -J OO Oo O O l N\n5*\np*\no\no\nc\nl-l\n1-1%\nOO 00^1 oo-i-£.oo to to to to 10\nLn\nOOOOOOOOO-JOntOO\np\n3*\ncr\no\nP9\ntfl\n•1\nCD\no-\n3\nCD\n3\ntp\n5\ncrq\no\n3*\na\na\nCD\nI—\ncr\no\n3\nr?\n3\np\no\nc\nn\nO\no\nen\n•1\n1\n3*\n1\no\no\n3\nOQ\nCD\no\no*\nw\nX\n3\nen\n3\n•1\no\ncr\nCD*\n3*\nn\no-\n3*\np\no\nOq\nn\no\nCO\no\nrr\na:\n(/D\nCD\n3\nen\n3\no\n3\no\nCD\nP\nw\nO\no\n3\nw\nr\np\nT3\n3\no\nX\nII\np\n3\nO*\n2.\nCD\nw\na\np\n3\nCD\n3\n«-s\nr*-\nO\n3\n3*\nCD\nCD\n•1\nB\n(0\nCD\no\no\no\n0)\n1*\no\ns\nc\n1\n/i\n•o\n31\na\no\na*\nCD\np\n3\no\nX\nCU\nCD\no\no\no\np\na\nto\nCU\nw\nII\nOo\no\nr\no\n8t\n73\nOn\n5\no\na*\nn\nCO\n3*\nO\n3\nCD\n•n\no\n•1\n3\n1\no\nc\nif\nt\n3\nV\np\n2*.\no\n3*\n00^\np*\n3\no\no\no\n3\n-f\nf\np\na.\nCD\nCO\no\n•1\n3\n3*\nfl\nCD\nct\n3\n2.\np*\no\no\no*\n11\nw\n3\nn.\nCO\na.\nrr\nCO\nQ\nCD\np\n3\nto\nCD\no\nCD\nCD\n3\na*\nCD\nCD\n3\n3*\no\nCD\nCO\nCO\nCD\n3\nN\nCD\no\n3*\no\n5!\nCD\nCD\na.\nCD\no\n3\no\nCO\no\nCD\n3*\np\np\nCD\n3\n3\nto\no»\nu.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0667.jp2"},"660":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n648\nPhylloxera.\nFor use mix\nSolution 1 75 c. c.\nSolution 2 30 c. c.\nSolution 3 30 c. c.\nPure glycerine 20 c. c.\nAlcohol, W° 45 c. c.\nThis eosin silver solution should be allowed\nto settle lor one or two days, then filtered, and\n20 c. c, of the same should be mixed with 100 c.\nc. of raw emulsion.\nErythrosin Silver Solution.—\nErythrosin, pure 4 grm.\nDistilled water 50 c. c.\nAlcohol, 96jf 450 c. c.\nDissolve.\nThe above mentioned solutions of silver and\npicrate of ammonia are also used for making\nthe following stock solution\nSolution 1 75 c. c.\nSolution 2 2W-. 30 c. c.\nSolution 3 W. 30 c. c.\nPure glycerine 25 c. c.\nAlcohol, m% 120 c. c.\nDistilled water 20 c. c.\nThe cloudy solution thus obtained is allowed\nto stand for a quarter of an hour, and then liq.\nammonia added, drop by drop, till it becomes\nquite clear; the solution is then kept in a\ncorked bottle for one or two days to settle, then\nfiltered, and 20 c. c. added to every 100 c. c. of\nemulsion immediately before use.\nEosin and erythrosin sensitize bromide of sil-\nver for yellow and yellowish green, the maxi-\nmum effect being visible at DJ^ E, or midway be-\ntween the yellow and green. Eosin gives soft\nharmonious negatives, erythrosin somewhat\nharder or more contrasted negatives. To\nsensitive for red and orange it is\nnecessary to use cyanin, preferably the chloro-\ncyanin, as follows 0 3 grm. of chloi-o-cyanin\nshould be dissolved in 50 c. c. of water and 10\nc. c. of this solution added to 100 c. c. of raw\nemulsion and 1 c. c. of pure glycerine. The\ncyanin emulsion should then be mixed with an\nequal quantity of erythrosin emulsion, and one\nthus obtains a sensitiveness ranging from A in\nthe red to H in the violet.\nThe dyed emulsions will not keep more than\ntwo days; and should be twice Altered through\na clean pad of cotton wool before coating the\nplates.\nEosin silver emulsion, with 51 mg. of free sil-\nver nitrate added to every 100 c. c. of emulsion,\nshowed 21 degrees Warnerke; without excess of\nsilver, 17° W.; erythrosin silver, giving respect-\nively 21° W. and 15° W.; the cyanin erythrosin\nsilver emulsion giving 13° W.; therefore the sen-\nsitiveness of these plates is equal to that of the\nordinany and rapid gelatine dry plate.\nThe eosin and erythrosin silver solutions are\nsensitive to light, and must therefore be made\nand kept in the dark.\nAs with all collodion emulsions, the plates\nshould receive a substratum, preferably of\ngelatine solution 1% with 1%% of acetic acid,\nand 2% of alcohol. The plates are coated ex-\nactly in the same way as with the old wet plate\ncollodion, and, as soon as the collodion has set\n1 the plate is exposed, but it will keep damp for\nthirty or forty minutes without any fear of ill\nresults. After exposure the plate is well\nwashed under a stream of running water until\nthe greasy marks no longer show, then propped\nup for a minute to drain, and then flooded with\nthe developer, which is made up as follows\nStock Solution A.—\nDistilled water 500 grm.\nSodium sulphite 200 grm.\nCarbonate of potash from the\ntartrate 200 grm.\nStock Solution B.—\nHydroquinone 25 grm.\nAlcohol, W° 100 c. c.\nStock Solution C—\nAmmonium bromide 25 grm.\nDistiiled water. 100 c. c.\nThe concentrated developer is made up of\nSolution A 100 c. c.\nSolution B 5 c. c.\nSolution C 7 c. c.\nThe actual developer of\nConcentrated developer 150 c. c.\nDistilled water 1,000 c. c.\nThe character of the negative may, of course,\nbe altered by increasing or decreasing the\nquantity of concentrated developer or the\nproportions of the several ingredients— the hy-\ndroquinone giving density, the bromide clear-\nness, and the potash accelerating.\nWhen the image has sufficiently developed,\nit can either be intensified with the usual acid\npyrogallol and silver intensifier, after washing,\nor it may be fixed in hypo., washed, and then\nintensified with the above intensifier, or the\nmercury and sulphite, as used for gelatine\nplates.\nA One Solution Reducer.—\nThe following formula for a good all around\nreducer of density is given by Herr Belitski, of\nNordhausen:\nPotassio-f erric oxalate 15 parts.\nNeutral sodium sulphite 15 parts.\nDistilled water 300 parts.\nThe solution is of a blood red color, due to\nthe ferric sulphite formed\nAdd-\nOxalic acid, crystals 5 parts.\nand shake till the solution becomes green;\nthen decant from the undissolved acid, and\nadd—\nHyposulphite of soda crystals 75 parts.\nShake till dissolved, and filter. Keep in well\nclosed bottles, protected from light.\nThe negative which it is desired to reduce\nshould be well rinsed when it comes from the\nfixing bath, and laid in the reducer; when the\naction has proceeded far enough, wash quickly,\nand dry. The solution may be used over and over\nagain until it becomes yellow, when its reduc-\ning powers are exhausted.— Chemist andDruggist.\nPoisons.\nPoisoning, Remedy for Ivy.— Dr. James J.\nLevick, of Philadelphia, writes to the Medical\nNews In a case of poisoning of the hands\nfrom Rhus toxicodendron— poison oak— recent-\nly under my care, which had reached the\nvesicular stage and was attended with much\nswelling and burning, the happiest results\npromptly followed the free dusting of the pow-\nder of aristol on the affected parts. The change\nwas almost magicaJ, so sudden and so prompt\nwas the relief afforded. Might not this powder,\napplied in the early stage of the disease, do\nmuch toward preventing the ulceration and\npitting of variola\nPhylloxera,Remedy for.— The introduc-\ntion of American plants to replace those de-\nstroyed by parasites in French vineyards has not\narrested the use of insecticides for tne protec-\ntion of French vines still attacked by phylloxera,\nand for this purpose carbon bisulphide (either\npure or dissolved in water), sulpho-carbonates,\nand submersion continue to be employed with\nmore or lesa success. The cai bon bisulphide is by\nfar the more efficient, but is too volatile and\ndoes not diffuse with sufficient rapidity. When,\nhowever, it is mixed with vaseline, its volatil-\nity is reduced and its diffusibility is increased,\nthe former proving advantageous in light and\ncalcareous soils, the latter in heavy soils, in ac-\ncordance with theoratical considerations. The\nvaselined sulphide is applied in the same way\nas the ordinary sulphide, depositing some at\nthe foot of the vine stock and spreading the\nrest over the surface this treatment is found","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0668.jp2"},"661":{"fulltext":"Razor.\n649\nAVater.\nto be effectual with it phylloxera is no longer\nseen in the roots, vegetation is luxuriant, and\nnumerous new rootlets indicate a decisive in-\ncrease in vitality the manuring- on a test tract\nof land had not been altered for six years,\ntherefore the improvement was solely due to\nthe insecticide. P, Cazeneuve.\nRazor Strop, to Renovate. 1. Rub a\nlittle clean tallow over the surface, and then\nput on it the light top part of the snuff of a\ncandle; rub it smooth.\n2. Hub the strop well with a piece of soft pew-\nter or lead.\nRock and Rye.— Rye whisky, 3 gal.; syrup,\n1 gal.\nSalt Radical.— A substance which forms\nan acid when combined with hydrogen. The\nterm salt radical is synonymous with Halogen.\nSoaps.— The following table shows the oily\nand fatty matters which may be used for mak-\ning the soft curd, and the strength and quantity\nof the soda lyes deemed most suitable for speed-\nily affecting their saponification. The weight of\nlye required to saponify each 100 lb. of fatty\nmatter may be found by dividing the number\nof degrees by the strength of the lyes applica-\nble to each kind of fat.\nFat to be used.\n100 lb. tallow require\n100 lb. palm oil require\n100 lb. tallow olein require\n100 lb. rosin require\n°C3\nA\n3.800°\n-3,200°\n;,800°\n2,700°\nCD\nOCA\n14°-15°\n16°-18°\n16°-18°\nl6°-22°\nThe fats that may be used for making the\nhydrated soap, and the quantity and strength\nof the lyes required for saponification, are the\nfollowing\nFat to be used.\n100 lb.\n1001b.\n10 J lb.\n1001b.\n100 lb.\n1001b.\n100 lb.\n1001b.\ntallow require\ncocoa nut oil require.\npalm oil require\nlard require\ntallow olein require...\nolive oil require\nrape seed oil require\nlinseed oil require.\n3,800°\n4,100°\n3,200°\n3,400°\n2,800°\n3,000°\n2,400°\n2,400°\n11°\n16°-20°\n18°-22°\n13°\n18°-22°\n16°\n24° -28°\n54°-28°\nAntiseptic Sobp. An antiseptic soap for phy-\nsicians and nurses, which has been found to\npossess the property of closing scratches and\nhealing sores and cracks, has been introduced\nby M. Vigier. and is having considerable sale in\nParis. It is made of 12 parts dried sulphate of\ncopper incorporated with 88 parts of any good\nsoap material. The product has a pleasing\ngreen tint and is devoid of any irritating\naction.\nStaining. Yellow Stain for Marble.— Tinc-\nture of gamboge, turmeric or saffron. Heat\nthe marble, and apply.\nSyrups.— Asparagus Syrup.— Gat 3 lb. of the\ngreen and tender part of some asparagus and\nboil it in 2 qt. water until the water is reduced\nto 1 qt. Pour the whole through a filtering\nbag and add 4 lb. loaf sugar, broken in pieces.\nto the asparagus water. Boil the syrup in a\ncovered vessel au bain-marie— that is, by plac-\ning the vessel containing the syrup in a stew-\npan half filled with boiling water until it\nregisters 32- 1 on the saccharometer. When cold\nbottle the syrup and keep it in a cool place.\nAlmond Syrup.— Blanch and peel 1 lb. Jordan\nalmonds and 34 oz. of bitter almonds, and steep\nthem in cold water for four hours. Pound the\nalmonds to a smooth paste in a mortar, adding\nl A lb. pounded sugar and moistening by degrees\nwith 1 qt. water. Press the almonds through a\nwet broth napkin, straining the almond milk\ninto a basin. Boil 2 lb sugar to the ball; take it\noff the fire, and when it is nearly cold, add to\nit the almond oil and a tablespoonful of\norange flower water; shake the sugar boiler, to\nmix the whole together, cover it up and put it\nby until the sugar is quite melted. Pour the\nsyrup into bottles, cork them carefully and\nkeep them in a cool place. As almonds can be\nobtained all the year round, it will be better to\npi epare only small quantities of the syrup at a\ntime. v\nTanning. See Leather above.\nTetratoinic. Equivalent in combining\npower to four atoms of hydrogen.\nTetrad.— An element, or compound radical,\nwhose combining power is equivalent to that\nof four atoms of hydrogen.\nTriad.— An element, or compound radical,\nwhose combining power is equal to that of three\natoms of hydrogen.\nTriamine.— An amine formulated on the\ntype of three molecules of ammonia.\nVapors for Inhalation.— The following\nare selected by the Monthly Magazine of Phar-\nmacy from the formulae used at the Hospital\nfor Diseases of the Throat in London\nVapor Caryophylli.—\nOil of cloves 30 min.\nLight carbonate of magnesia.... 15 grn.\nWater 3 oz.\nVapor Cassice.—\nOil of cassia 20 min.\nLight carbonate of magnesia 10 grn.\nWater 3 oz.\nVapor Cinnamomi.—\nOil of cinnamon 20 min.\nLight carbonate of magnesia 10 grn.\nWater 3 oz.\nVapor Creosoti.—\nBeechwood creosote 3 drm.\nGlycerine 3 drm.\nWater 3 oz.\nVapor Cubebce.—\nOil of cubebs 2 drm.\nLight carbonate of magnesia 60 grn.\nWater 3 oz.\nUseful in laryngorrhoea.\nVapor Cubeboe c. Limone.\nOil of cubebs l\\ drm.\nOil of lemon }4 drm.\nLight carbonate of magnesia... 60 grn.\nWater 3 oz.\nThe oil of lemon is added to mask the dis-\nagreeable odor of the cubebs.\nA teaspoonf ul to be added to a pint of water\nat the desired temperature, 150° F.. and an addi-\ntional teaspoonf ul to be added every five min-\nutes during- the time that the inhalation is used.\nNot more than three teaspoonf uls to be used\non any single occasion.\nWater.— Detection of Copper in Distilled\nWater.— Distilled water, the purity of which\nhas been ascertained by the ordinary methods,\nbecomes colored yellow on dissolving in it\npotassium iodide. A closer examination admits\nof the detection of infinitesimal quantities of\ncopper, which neither ammonia nor potassium","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0669.jp2"},"662":{"fulltext":"Waterproofing.\n650\nWaterproofing.\nferrocyanide had revealed. The presence of\nthis impurity occasions the yellow coloration\nof the solution of potassium iodide in the\nwater. The reagent gives a feeble yellow color-\nation with 1 part in 200,000 parts of water. The\nliquid must not contain any other substance\ncapable of decomposing the iodide and liber-\nating iodine.— Herman Thorns, in Phar. Central-\nhalle.\nWaterproofing. —Preparing Waterproof\nCloth.— These methods may be divided into two\ngroups. In some, a precipitate of salts of the\nfatty acids is produced upon the tissue itself;\nin others, the cloth is saturated with melted or\ndissolved substances, which, when they are\nonce solidified on the fiber, have the property\nof repelling water. If any of the former class\nmethods is selected, the cloth is passed into a\nspecia machine, in which it is saturated with\naluminum acetate; it is dried and passed into a\nsoap beck. It is necessary in this operation to\nproduce a basic compound. For this purpose,\nthere are employed equal weights of salts ol\naluminum and lead. Care must be taken not\nto introduce too large quantities of tree acid\nwith the aluminum sulphate, since the latter\ncontains always a certain quantity of sulphuric\nacid, which, during desiccation, displaces the\nacetic acid. To avoid this inconvenience, there\nare added per liter from 10 to 80 grm. soda. The\nmost favorable temperature is 50°. Heating by\ndirect steam must be avoided. For preparing\nthe soap bath the author utilizes the fact that\nan aqueous solution of soap forms true solu-\ntions with mixtures of fat and wax, resins,\nmineral oils, and even caoutchouc. To this end\ntake a 10^ solution of gum Paraguay in oil of\nturpentine. The proportions to be employed\nfor a square meter of cloth are 30 grm. tallow\nsoap, 25 grm. Japan wax, 1*5 grm. gum Para-\nguay, 1 grm. good varnish. The wax is first mel-\nted, the gum and the varnish are added, and then\nfor eaeh kilo, of the solid gum there are added\n0*5 grm. of a solution, saturated in heat of\npotassium sulphide (liver of sulphur). The\nmixture is stirred and boiled, when sulphureted\nhydrogen is liberated. A boiling solution of\nsoap is added, when the bath is fit for use.— Em,\nDoring, in Romeri s Journal.\nThe additional receipts ^vill be found on pages 677 to 708.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0670.jp2"},"663":{"fulltext":"APPENDIX,\nPART II.\nTables of Weights and Measures.\nThe following tables give the principal standards of weights and measures,\narranged and numbered as follows. Abreviations are given thus (lb.).\nThe tables are\n1. Measure of Length (Lineal Measure).\n2. Geographical and Nautical Measure.\n3. Land Measure (Lineal).\n4. Land Measure (Square).\n5. Dry Measure (English).\n6. Dry Measure (U. S.).\n7. Table of Decimal Equivalent.\n8. Cubic Measure.\n9. Old Wine and Spirit Measure.\n10. Liquid Measure (U. S.).\n11. Apothecaries 1 Liquid Measure.\n13-13. Avoirdupois Weight.\n14. Apothecaries Weight.\n15. Troy Weight.\n16. Relative Proportions of Weight.\nS 17. Diamond Weight.\n18-31. Metric Weights and Measures.\n32-34. Household and Miscellaneous Tables.\n35. Tables of Electrical Horse Power.\n36-39. Tables Relating to Wire.\n40-41. Comparison of Specific Gravity and\nBaume s Hydrometer.\n1. Measures of Length.— Lineal Measure,—\n3 barleycorns, or 1\n12 lines, or. I -i ,-^,,-t, rt v\n72 points, or flinch (m.)\n1,000 mils (mi.) J\n3 inches 1 palm.\n4 inches 1 hand.\ninches 1 span.\n12 inches 1 foot (ft.)\n18 inches 1 cubit.\n3 feet 1 yard (yd.)\n2% feet .1 military pace\n5fiet 1 geometrical\npace.\n2 yards 1 fathom.\n53^ yards lrod, pole or\nperch.\n£j \\-::::*:::::::::h* B te J\n8 furlongs, or\n1,760 yards, or -l mile.\n5,280 feet\n3 miles 1 league.\n2,240 yards, or U j ih n\n1-272 miles f L iriSQ miie\nThe inch is also divided into halves, quar-\nters, eighths, and sixteenths; sometimes into\ntenths. The hand is used to measure horses\nheight. The military pace is the length of the\nordinary step of a man. Geometrical pace is\nthe length of two steps. 1,000 of such paces were\nreckoned to a mile. The fathom is used in sound-\nings to ascertain depth and for measuring\ncordage and chains.\n2. Geographical and Nautical Measure.—\n6086-44 feet, or 1\n1000 fathoms, or 1=1 nautical mile\n10 cables, or or knot.\n11528 statute miles J\n60 nautical mi., or I _ -j j po ..,p P\n67168 statute miles f x ue\n360 degrees 1 circumference\n[of the earth at the equator.\nEstimating a mile at 6139^ ft., and using a 30\nsecond glass. If a 28 second glass is used, and\n8 divisions, then\n1 knot =47 ft. 5 in.\n1 fathom 5 ft. 11%+ in.\nThe line should be about 150 fathoms long,\nhaving 10 fathoms between the chip and first\nknot for stray line. -i\nNote.— Bowditch gives 6,120 ft. in a sea mile\nwhich, if taken as the length, will make the\ndivisions 51 ft. and 5 T V ft.\n1 league 3 nautical miles.\n1 cable s length 1*0 fathoms.\n3. Land Measure {Lineal).\n7 92 inches 1 link.\n100 links, or 1\ni^s.?or::::::.:::::;-.:-.:f lcha ca\n4 poles J\n10 chains 1 furlong(fur.\n80 chains, or I -i .^i-\n8 furlongs J l mue\n4. Land Measure (Square).\n144 sq. in 1 square foot\n(sq. ft.)\n9 sq. ft 1 squai-e yard\n(sq. yd.)\n30J4 sq. yds 1 sq. pole, rod\nor perch.\n16 sq. poles 1 square chain\n(sq. ch.)\n40 sq. poles, or U g d\n1,210 sq. yds fAsq.rooa.\n4 roods, or\n10 sq. chains, or I\n160 sq. poles, or }-l acre.*\n4,840 sq. yds., or I\n43,560sq. ft J\nQno4na aCreS r h sq. mile.\n3,097,600 sq. yds j\n30 acres 1 yd. of land.\n100 acres 1 hide of land.\n40 hides 1 barony.\nThe side of a square having an area of an\nacre is equal to 69 57 lineal yards.\n5. Dry Measure (English). Cu. in.\n2 pints 1 quart (qt.) 67*20\n4 quarts 1 gallon (gal.) 268 80\n2 gallons lpeck(pk.) 537*60\n4 pecks or j. x D ushel (bu.) 2150*42\n8 gallons J v\n2 bushels 1 strike, 4300 84\n4 bushels 1 coomb, 8601*68\n5 bushels 1 sack, 10752-10\n8 bushels 1 quarter (qr.) 17203-36\n4 quarters (41*077\ncubic feet) 1 chaldron.\n5 quarters 1 wey or load.\n2 loads Hast.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0671.jp2"},"664":{"fulltext":"652\nThe standard bushel is 18J^ inches in diameter\ninside and 8J4 inches deep; it holds 80 pounds of\ndistilled water at 60° F„ It is 19)^ inches in di-\nameter outside. This measure is applied to dry\ngoods, as corn, seeds, roots, etc., which are\nstruck with a straight bar. The old dry meas-\nures had the same denominations and propor-\ntions, and were 96*95^ of the imperial dry meas-\nures above given. The heaped imperial bushel\nmust be an upright cylinder of which the diam-\neter is not less than twice its depth, and the\nheight of the conical heap must be at least\nof the depth of the bushel, the outside of the\nmeasure being the boundary of the base of the\ncone. It may be 18*789 inches in diameter inside\nand 8 inches deep, and the capacity, heaped,\nmust be 1*6293 cubic feet. Heaped measure is\nused for such goods as cannot be conveniently\nStricken, as coal, fruit and potatoes.\nA load of hay contains 36 trusses,\nA chaldron=36 bushels or 57*24 cubic feet.\nA perch of stone 24*75 cubic feet.\nA cord of wood contains 128 cubic feet.\n6. Dry Measure, U. S.—\nCu. in.\n67*20\n268*80\n537*60\n2 pints 1 quart (qt.)\n4 quarts 1 gallon (gal.)\nigSffif.^:::\n4 pecks 1. struck bushel 2150*42\n7. Table of Decimal Equivalents. Of 8thsi\nI6ths, 32ds, and 64ths of an inch.\nP\n54\n16 4\n5¥\n•015625\n•03125\n•046875\n•0625\n•078125\n•09375\n•109375\n•125\n•140625\n•15625\n•171875\n•1875\n•203125\n•21875\n•234375\n•25\n•265625\n•28125\n•296875\n•3125\n•328125\n34375\n•359375\n•375\n•390625\n•40625\n•421875\n•4375\n•453125\n•46875\n•484375\n•50\n•515625\n•53125\n•546875\n5625\n•578125\n59375\n•609475\n•625\n•640625\n•65625\n64\n•671875\n•6875\n•703125\n•71875\n•734375\n•75\n•765625\n•78125\n•796875\n•8125\n•828125\n•84375\n•859375\n•875\n•890625\n•90625\n•921875\n•9375\n•953125\n•96875\n•984375\nr 8. CmMc Measure.—\n1,728 cubic inches 1 cubic foot.\n27 cubic feet 1 cubic or solid\nyard.\n9. Old Wine and Spirit Measure.—\nImperial\nGals.\n4 gills or quaterns 1 pint.\n2 pints 1 quart.\n4 quarts (231 cu. in.) 1 gallon *8333\n10 gallons 1 anchor 8*333\n18 gallons lbunlet 15\n31^1 gallons 1 barrel 26*25\n42 gallons 1 tierce 35\n1 KrrSs 8, or 1 h08 sh d 52 5\n84 gallons, or I ^unch n 70\niy 3 hogsheads. fipuncnn /u\n126 gallons, or p nr\n2 hogsheads, or V 1 pip ^,?f 105\nm puncheons Dutt\nJgS SiV ::h tUQ 210\n10. Liquid Measure (U. S.). Cu. in.\n4gills lpint(0.) 28*875\n2pints 1 quart (qt.) 57*75\n4 quarts 1 gallon (gal.) 231\n63 gallons 1 hogshead (hhd.)\n2 hogsheads 1 pipe or butt.\npipes ....ltun.\n11. Apothecaries Liquid Measure.—\nApothecaries or Wine Measure is the offici-\nnal or standard system in use by the pharma-\ncists of this country. Its denominations are\ngallon, pint, fluid ounce, fluid drachm and\nminim, and the signs used to express them and\ntheir relative value are as follows\nCong. O F. Oz. F. Dr. Minims.\n1 8 128 1,024 61,440\n1 16 128 7,680\n1 8 780\n1 60\n1\nThe Imperial Standard Measure is the sys-\ntem in use by British pharmacists. Its de-\nnominations and their relative value are\nGal. Quarts. Pints. F. Oz. F. D. Minims.\n1 4 8 160 1280 76 800\n1 2 40 320 19,200\n1 20 160 9,600\n1 8 480\n1 60\nThe relative value of United States Apothe-\ncaries and British Imperial Measure is as fol-\nlows:\nU. S. Imperial Measure.\nApothecaries\nMeasure. Pts. F. oz. F. dr. Drop.\n1 Gallon -83311 Gallon, or 6 16 2 22*85\n1 Pint *83311 Pint, or 16 5 17 86\n1 Fl. Oz. 1*04139 Fl. Oz., or 1 19*76\n1 Fl. Dr. 1*04139 Fl. Dr., or 1 248\n1 Minim 1*04139 Minim, or 1*04\n12. Avoirdupois Weight.— Avoirdupois weight\nis used for weighing all goods except those for\nwhich troy and apothecaries weight are em-\nployed, and for compounding recipes for do-\nmestic purposes and for the arts. Its denomi-\nnations and their relative values are-\nTon. Cwt. Qrs. Lb. Ozs. Drs.\n1 20 80 2,240 35,840 573,440\n1 4 112 1,792 28,672\n1 28 448 7,168\n1 16 256\n1 ft\n13. An additional table of avoirdupois weight\nis given below.\n27*34 grains (gras.) 1 drachm (drms.)\n16 drachms 1 ounce (oz.)\n437}^ grns.\n16 ounces 1 pound (lb.)\n7,000 grns.\n28 pounds 1 quarter.\n4 quarters .1 hundredweight (cwt.)\n20 hundredweight. .1 ton of 2240 lb.\nA stone is equal to 14 lb.\nA quintal is equal to 100 lb.\n14. Apothecaries Weight. Apothecaries\nweight is used by apothecaries in compound-\ning medicines.and is the officinal standard of the\nUnited States Pharmacopoeia. In buying and\nselling medicines not ordered by prescriptions\navoirdupois weight is used. The denominations\nof apothecaries weight and their relative val-\nues are—\nLb. Oz. Dr. Scr. Gr.\n1 12 96 288 5760\n1 8 24 480\n1 3 60\n1 20\n15. Troy Weight.— Is used by jewelers and at the\nmints, in the exchange of the precious metals.\nIts denominations and their relative values are\nLb. Oz. Dwt. Gr.\n1 12 240 5760\n1 20 480\n1 24\n7000 troy grains 1 lb. avoirdupois.\n175 troy pound 144 lb. avoirdupois.\n175 troy ounces 192 oz. avoirdupois.\n437^2 troy grains 1 oz. avoirdupois.\n1 troy pound 8228+ lb. avoirdupois.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0672.jp2"},"665":{"fulltext":"653\nThe common standard of weight by which the\nrelative values of these systems are compared\nis the grain, which for this purpose may be\nregarded as the unit of weight. The pound troy\nand that of apothecaries weight have each\nfive thousand seven hundred and sixty grains\nthe pound avoirdupois has seven thousand\ngrains.\n16. Relative Proportions.— The relative pro-\nportions and values of these several systems\nare as follows\nTroy. Avoirdupois.\nOz. Dr.\n1 pound equals 13 2*65\n1 ounce equals 1 1*55\nldwt. equals 877\nTroy. Apothecaries\nLb. Oz. Dr. Scr. Gr.\n1 pound equals 1\n1 ounce equals. .0 10\n1 dwt. equals 1 4\n1 grain equals 1\nApothecaries Avoirdupois.\nOz. Dr.\n1 pound equals 13 265\nl ounce equals 1 1 55\n1 drachm equals 6 2*19\n1 scruple equals 0*73\nApothecaries Troy.\nLb. Oz. Dwt. Gr.\nlpound equals 1\n1 ounce equals. 10\n1 drachm equals 2 12\n1 scruple equals ..0 20\nAvoirdupois. Troy.\nLb. Oz. Dwt. Gr.\n1 ton equals 2,922 2 13 8\nlcwt. equals 146 1 6 16\n1 quarter equals 34 6 16\n1 pound equals 1 2 11 16\n1 ounce equals. 18 5^£\n1 drachm equals 1 3J£\nAvoirdupois. ^-Apothecaries.—\nLb. Oz. Dr. Scr. Gr.\nlpound equals 1 2 4 2\n1 ounce equals 7 17*^\n1 drachm equals 1 7§f\n17o Diamond.—\n16 parts 1 grain 0*8 troy grain.\n4 grains 1 carat 3 2 troy grains.\n18. Decimal System.— Weights aud Measures.\n—The metric system, formed on the meter\nas the unit of length, has four other lead-\ning units, all connected with and depend-\nent upon this, viz., the meter, the unit of\nmeasure of length. The are, the unit of sur-\nface, and is the square of ten meters. The\nliter, the unit of capacity, and is the cube of a\ntenth part of the meter. The stere, the unit of\nsolidity, having the capacity of a cubic meter.\nThe gramme, the unit of weight, and is the\nweight of that quantity of distilled water at its\nmaximum density which fills the cube of a hun-\ndredth part of the meter. Each unit has its deci-\nmal multiple and sub-multiple, that is, weights\nand measures ten times larger or ten times\nsmaller than the principal unit. The prefixes\ndenoting the multiples are derived from the\nGreek, and are deka, ten; ftecto, hundred; Mo,\nthousand; and miiria, ten thousand. Those\ndenoting sub-multiples are taken from the\nLatin, and are deci, ten; centi, hundred; milli,\nthousand. The table given below embraces all\nthe weights and measures of the system.\n19. Table for the Conversion of Mils (ruonin.) into\nCentimeters.\n1 CO\ni m\na\nI GO\nm\ni B\nH f.\n1 w\nSfi\nm\n•rH\nn\nI\nVQ\n1 2\n-a\nIS\n^a N\n^3\n1\n2\n3\n4\n5\n6\n7\n8\n9\n10\n11\n12\n13\n14\n15\n16\n17\n18\n19\n20\n21\n22\n23\n24\n25\n00254\n00508\n00762\n01016\n01270\n01524\n01778\n02032\n02 86\n02540\n02793\n03047\n03301\n03555\n03809\n04063\n04317\n04571\n04825\n05079\n05333\n05587\n05841\n06095\n06348\n06602\n06856\n07110\n07364\n07618\n07872\n08126\n08380\n08634\n09142\n09396\n09650\n09904\n1016\n1041\n1067\n•1092\n1118\n1143\n1168\n1194\n1219\n1245\n1270\n51\n52\n53\n54\n55\n56\n57\n58\n59\n60\n61\n62\n63\n64\n65\n66\n67\n68\n69\n70\n71\n72\n73\n74\n75\n0-1295\n0-1321\n0-1346\n1372\n1397\n1422\n0-1448\n0-1473\n1499\n1524\n1549\n0-1575\n1600\n0*1626\n0-1651\n1676\n0-1702\n1727\n0-1752\n0-1778\n0-1803\n0-1829\n0-1854\n1879\n0-1905\n90\n91\n92\n93\n94\n95\n96\n97\n98\n99\n100\n0-1930\n1956\n0-1981\n2006\n0-2032\n0-2057\n2083\n0-2108\n2133\n2159\n2184\n0-2209\n0-2235\n2260\n0-2286\n2311\n2336\n0-2362\n0-2387\n0-2413\n0-2438\n0-2465\n0-2489\n0-2514\n2540\nUnited States Standard Weights and Measures.\nThe office of Weights and Measures, Wash-\nington, is the repository of the United States\nstandards, comprising those based on the Eng-\nlish system, called customary, as well as those\nrepresenting the metric system of weights and\nmeasures. It has recently received from Paris\nthe national meter and kilogramme prototypes\nstandards of such unrivaled perfection (ex-\ncepting, of course, by their fellows) that a\nbrief account of the circumsta nces attending\ntheir construction will prove of interest.\nThe necessity of having a common standard\nof length and weight led the principal govern-\nments of the world to establish by concurrent\naction an international bureau of weights\nand measures at Paris for the construction\nand preservation of standards. A treaty to this\neffect was signed at Paris in May, 1875. By this\ntreaty the administrative direction of the bu-\nreau was put in the hands of eminent scientific\nmen, who are delegated by their respective\ngovernments to supervise its operations. After\nan exhaustive study of the subject, involv-\ning experiments and delay, the theoretical re-\nquirements were agreed upon, and the bureau\nentered upon their practical execution. This\n(Continued on page 656.)\nRelative Value.\nLength.\nSurface.\nCapacity.\nSolidity.\nWeight.\n10,000\nL000\n100\n10\nUnit\nMyriameter\nKilometer\nHectometer\nDekameter\nMeter\nDecimeter\nCentimeter\nMillimeter\nHectare\nAre\nDeciare\nCentiare\nKiloliter\nHectoliter\nDekaliter\nLiter (1)\nDeciliter\nCentiliter\nMilliliter\nDekastere\nStere\nDecistere\nKilogramme\nHectogramme\nDekagramme\nGramme\no-i\n001\nDecigramme\nCentigramme\no-ooi\nMilligramme","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0673.jp2"},"666":{"fulltext":"654\nU. S. Standard Weights and Measures.\nThe following tables have been issued from the Office of Standard Weights and Measures,\nUnited States Coast and Geodetic Survey, T. C. Mendenhall, Superintendent.\nTables for Converting U. S. Weights and Measures— Customary to Metric.\n20. Linear.\nCO\nCO\nCO\nft\nft\nft\nCD\nCD\n4J\n-p\no\nCD\na\n$8\na\nO\nCO-^\nJTa\no\np3\n-p\nCO\n-p\nCD\nCD\n■R\nft\na\ni— i\nft\nh\n25-4000\n0-C04801\n0-914402\n50-8001\n0-609601\n1-828804\n76-2001\n0-914402\n2-743205\n101-6002\n1-219202\n3-657607\n127-0002\n1-524003\n4-572009\n152-4003\n1-828804\n5*486411\n177-8003\n2-133604\n6-400813\n203-2004\n2-438105\n7*315215\n228-6004\n2-743205\n8-229616\n21. Square.\no\nCD R\nr- CD\nO\n,R CD CO\nCD 3^\nf* R CD\nS3 era\n3 oq R\nW\n6-452\n12-903\n19355\n25-807\n32-258\n38-710\n45-161\n51-613\n58-065\no\n4J\nCO\nCD CO CD\nft CD\no 1\nCO\n9-290\n18-581\n27-871\n37-161\n46-452\n55-742\n65-032\n74-323\n83-613\nCO\nFl\nCO CD\n-p\nft CD\n«a\nCD\n5* CO\nCO\n0-836\n1-672\n2-508\n3344\n4-181\n5-017\n5-853\n6-689\n7-525\n22. Cubic.\nC0 4J\nCD R\nXI CD\no a\ne co\n.R i*\n£2 CD R\nR\nO\n16-387\n32-774\n49-161\n65-549\n81-9)56\n98-323\n114-710\n131-097\n147-484\n«H CD\n^a\n0-02832\n0-05663\n0-08495\n0-11327\n0-14158\n0-16990\n0-19822\n(J 22654\n0-25485\n3$\n£a\no\nR O\no\n0-765\n1-529\n2-294\n3-058\n3 823\n4-587\n5-352\n6-116\n6-881\nSo\n$3\n1-60935\n3-21869\n4-82804\n6-43739\n8-04674\n9-65608\n11-26543\n12-87478\n14-48412\n0-4047\n0-8094\n1-2141\n1-6187\n2-0234\n2-4281\n2-8328\n3-2375\n3-6422\nCD\nCO\nS CD\nCD-P\n.CRS\nco o\nR+^\nm\n0-352*12\nC -70485\n1-05727\n1-40969\nT762I1\n2-11454\n2-46696\n2-81938\n3-17181\n23. Capacity.\n1\n2\n3\n4\n5\n6\n7\n8\n9\n1\n2\n3\n4\n5\n6\n7\n-Sis\no\n-P\nFluid drachms\nmilliliters or c\nbic centimetei\nCO\nCD\nR ft\nR V\nOS\n3 a\nCO\nft\nCD\n-p\nO\nCO\nft\nS3\nR\no-\nCO\nft\nCD\nO\n+3\nCO\nR\nO\na§\nO\n3*70\n29 57\n0-94636\n3-78544\n7-39\n59-15\n1-89272\n7-57088\n11-09\n88-72\n2-83908\n11-35632\n14-79\n118-30\n3-78544\n15-14176\n18-48\n147-87\n4-73180\n18 92720\n22-18\n177-44\n5-67816\n22-71264\n25-88\n207-02\n6-62452\n26-49808\n29-57\n236-59\n7-57088\n30-28352\n33-28\n266*16\n8-51724\n34-06896\n24. Weight.\na\nCO\nCD\nco a\nCD d\nCO CD fl\ns\nkilo-\nmmes.\no\nCO\nCD\na\n•g g S3\n3°,\nupoi\ndsto\ngra\nH CD\n§a\nO\nR R\n.R R\na\nt ,s3\nS3 J- 1\no\nO O\no\nbB\nP.\ng c\nO\nl\nH\n64-7989\n28-3495\n0-45359\n31-10348\n129-5978\n56-6991\n0*90719\n62-20696\n194-S968\n85.0486\n1-36078\n93*31044\n259-1957\n113-3981\n1-81437\n124-41392\n323-9946\n141-7476\n2-26796\n15551740\n388-7935\n170-0972\n2-72156\n186-62089\n453-5924\n198-4467\n317515\n217*72437\n518-3914\n226 7962\n3-62874\n248-82785\n583-1903\n255-1457\n4-08233\n279-93133\n25.\n1 chain\n1 square mile\n1 fathom\n1 nautical mile\n1 foot 0*304801 meter,\n1 avoir, pound\n15432-35639 grains\n20-1169 meters.\n259 hectares.\n1*829 meters.\n1853-27 meters.\n9-4840158 log-.\n453*5924277 grm.\n1 kilogramme.\nThe only authorized material standard of customary length is the Troughton scale belonging\nto this office, whose length at 59*62° Fahr. conforms to the British standard. The yard in use in\nthe United States is therefore equal to the British yard.\nThe only authorized material standard of customary weight is the troy pound of the mint. It\nIs of brass of unknown density, and therefore not suitable for a standard of mass. It was derived\nfrom the British standard troy pound of 1758 by direct comparison. The British avoidupois\npound was also derived from the latter, and contains 7,000 grains troy.\nThe grain troy is therefore the same as the grain avoirdupois, and the pound avoirdupois in use\nin the United States is equal to the British pound avoirdupois.\nThe British gallon 454346 liters.\nThe British bushel 36 3477 liters.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0674.jp2"},"667":{"fulltext":"655\nTables for Converting U. S. Weights and Measures— Metric to Customary.\n26. Linear.\n29.\nCapacity.\no\n03 0\no\nis v\no -h\no\n03\nJ-\nQl 03\nD.73\n12\n1\n111! a\nSo5 c o\nn cog\n03\n0)^ 03*\n-is g\nCOS\nO\no\n03\n-p a\n£o3\ng a\n+5 O\nbe\nH+ 3\n03\nli\n1\n39-3700\n3-28083\n1-093611\n0-62137\n0-27\n0-338\n1-0567\n2-6417\n2-8375\n2\n78-7400\n6-56167\n2-187222\n124274\n2\n054\n0-676\n2 1134\n5-2834\n5-6750\n3\n118-1100\n9-84250\n3-280833\n1-86411\n3\n0-81\n1-014\n3-1700\n7-9251\n8-5125\n4\n157-4800\n13-12333\n4-374444\n2-48548\n4\n1-08\n1-352\n4-2267\n10-5668\n11-3500\n5\n196-8500\n16-40417\n5-468056\n3-10685\n5\n135\n1-691\n5 2834\n13-2085\n14-1875\n6\n236-2200-\n19-68500\n6-561667\n3-72822\n6\n1-62\n2-029\n6-3401\n15-8502\n17 0250\n7.=\n275-5900\n22-96583\n7-655278\n4-34959\n7\n1-89\n2-368\n7-3968\n18-4919\n19-8625\n■8\n314-9600\n26-24667\n8-748889\n4-97096\n8\n2-16\n2-706\n8-4534\n21-1336\n22-7000\n9\n354-3300\n29-52750\n9-842500\n5-59233\n9\n2-43\n3-043\n9-510L\n23 7753\n25 5375\n27. Squa\nre.\n30. Weight.\nw\no\no\nO 03\nO 03\nU D\no\no\n03\n+a\n03 -U S\nS\n0 CD fH\n0+^\nD 0)\nSR\n1 0)^-^ 03 O\n03 2\no\n03 t-i ostJ\n53 M h%\n03 fn 03^3\n3 P 2.\nco 2 oq\n1-196\nO 03\n2-471\n1\n0-01543\n5|.S\nIS\nbe\nd rH\n■S y a a\nb£S\n3-5274\ni oj O a\n5flC3\nwas?\n03 P 0\n1\n0-1550\n10-764\n15432-36\n2 20462\n3\n0-3100\n°-l-528\n2-392\n4-942\n2\n0-03086\n30864 71\n7-0548\n4-40924\n3\n0-4650\n32-292\n3-588\n7-413\n3\n0-04630\n46297*07\n10-5822\n6-61386\n4\n0-6200\n43-055\n4*784\n9-884\n4\n0- 06173\n61729-43\n14-1096\n8-81849\n5\n0*7750\n53-819\n5-980\n12-355\no\n0-07716\n77161-78\n17-6370\n11-02311\n6\n0-9300\n64-583\n7-176\n14-826\n6\n0- 09259\n92594 14\n21-1644\n13 22773\n7\n1-0850\n75-347\n8-372\n17-297\n7\n0-10803\n10802649\n24-6918\n1543235\n8\n1-2400\n86-111\n9-568\n19-768\n8\n0- 12346\n123458 -85\n28-2192\n17-63697\n9\n1-3950\n96-874\n10-764\n22-239\n9\n0- 13889\n138891 21\n31-7466\n19-84159\n28. Cubic.\n31. Weight— (continued.)\n03\nCD O\n+J-;5 03\n03\no\no\nSSI S\no\ni-ai\na°\n1\nO .03\nfl3?\n•a. o.a\n3 fto\nC\n03\n•S a p-g\nS G P.\nB o P-o\n03\n£8\na§g\n03 O+J\nOB\n1\n0-0610\n61-023\n35-314\n1-308\n220 46\n2204-6\n0*03215\n2\n04220\n122-047\n70-629\n2-616\n2\n440 92\n4409-2\n0-06430\n3\n0-1831\n183-070\n105-943\n3-924\n3\n661-38\n6613-8\n0-09645\n4\n0-2441\n244-093\n141-258\n5-x32\n4\n881-84\n8818-4\n0-12860\n5\n0-3051\n305-117\n176-572\n6-540\n5\n1102 30\n11023-0\n0-16075\n6\n0-3661\n366-140\n211-887\n7-848\n6\n1322 76\n13227-6\n0-19290\n7\n0-4272\n427-163\n247-201\n9 156\n7\n1543-22\n15432-2\n22505\n8\n0-4882\n488-187\n282-516\n10-464\n8\n1763-68\n17636-8\n25721\n9\n0-5492\n549 210\n317-830\n11771\n9\n1984-14\n19841-4\n28936\nBy the concurrent action of the principal governments of the world, an International Bureau\nof Weights and Measures has been established near Paris. Under the direction of the International\nCommittee, two ingots were cast of pure platinum-iridium in the proportion of 9 parts of for-\nmer to 1 part of the latter metal. From one of these a certain number of kilogrammes were\nprepared, from the other a definite number of meter bars. These standards of weight and length\nwere intercompared, without preference, and certain ones were selected as international prototype\nstandards. The others were distributed by lot to the different governments, and are called\nnational prototype standaius. Those apportioned to the United States are in the keeping of\nthis office.\nThe metric system was legalized in the United States in 1866.\nThe international standard meter is derived from the meter des archives, and its length is\ndefined by the distance between two lines at 0° Centigrade, on a platinum-Mdium bar deposited\nat the International Bureau of Weights and Measures.\nThe international standard kilogramme i9 a mass of platinum-iridium deposited at the same\nplace, and its weight in vacuo is the same as that of the kilogramme des archives.\nThe liter is equal to-a cubic decimeter of water, and it is measured by the quantity of dis-\ntilled water which, at its maximum density, will counterpoise the standard kilogramme in a\nvacuum, the volume of such a quantity of water being, as nearly as has been ascertained, equal\nto a cubic decimeter.","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0675.jp2"},"668":{"fulltext":"C50\nin turn involved many investigations in regard\nto the best methods to be pursued, the im-\nprovement and construction of apparatus,\nand studies in thermometry and barometry,\nwhich resulted in establishing a standard ther-\nmometric scale and a standard barometer.\nIt was decided to make the new international\nmeter a line measure, and to derive it and the\nkilogramme from the meter andkilogramme of\nthe archives. The material chosen for the new\nstandards was an alloy of pure platinum-irid-\nium, in the proportion of nine parts of the for-\nmer to one of the latter. Two ingots were\ncast, and from one of them a certain number\nof kilogrammes were prepared from the other\na definite number of meter bars. The stand-\nards of length and weight were intercompared\nwithout preference, and certain ones were\nselected for deposit and safe keeping at the in-\nternational bureau, and are called interna-\ntional prototypes. The others were distributed\nby lot to the different governments ordering\nthem, and are called national prototypes.\nThe distribution was made in September,\n1889, and those apportioned to the United States\nare in the keeping of this office.\nThe comparison of length measures with the\nUnited States standards will be undertaken on\napplication. It is not necessary to explain the\nwell-known methods by which the shorter\nlength measures are compared with greater or\nless precision. The degree of refinement to\nwhich the comparisons are carried will depend,\nof course, on the purpose for which the meas-\nures are to be used. Where great accuracy is\nrequired a special understanding with this\noffice should be had. The means used for veri-\nfying tape lines are less well known and a de-\nscription will therefore be of use.\nThe United States Mural or Bench Standard.\nThis apparatus derives its name from the\nfact that it was originally attached to a wall.\nAs constructed in lb84, and as now arranged,\nit consists of a wooden bench 104 ft. long, hav-\ning upon it an iron bar with German silver\nplugs on which the graduation is traced. The\nbench is made of white pine wood well seasoned\nand painted. The planks used in its construc-\ntion are 2 in. thick and 11}^ in. wide; they are\nsupported on cedar posts firmly planted in the\nground.\nThe top of the bench and the bar are pro-\ntected from the weather by a cover made in\nsections, each section attached by hinges to the\nbench, and sufficiently inclined to shed the\nrain.\nThe iron bar offers a continuous surface a\nlittle over 100 ft. long. The bar is 2 in. wide\nand T 7 S in. thick; it rests upon equidistant brass\nrollers T s s in. in diameter; these in turn rest on\nthe bench.\nAt *each side of the bar, parallel to it and\nfirmly attached to the bench, is a strip of wood\nof such thickness as to bring its surface even\nwith the surface of the bar. Sufficient space\nis left between these strips and the bar to allow\nfree circulation of the air and not to hinder the\nexpansion of the bar. At one end the bar has\na device for clamping a tape or wire when the\ninitial lines of the latter and of the standard\nbar are in coincidence. A spring balance for\ngiving any desired tension is also provided.\nThis has a clamp for holding the tape or wire,\nand it can be set on any part of the standard\nto conform to the length of the tape. Length-\nwise the bar, two parallel series of German\nsilver plugs are inserted in the bar at suitable\ndistances apart to receive the graduation, one\nbeing subdivided into yards and in places into\nfeet, the other into meters. The yard gradu-\nation is intended to be standard at 62° F., 16 67\nC; the metric at 32° F., or 0° C.\nIn comparing, the tape line is stretched\nunder the desired tension on the standard bar,\nand the difference between its graduation and\nthat of the latter is read either by means\nof a finely subdivided scale or, where the\ngraduation of the tape warrants the refine-\nment, by means of a low power microscope.\nThe chief advantage of using an iron bar\nover marks on bolts let into a wall is that the\ndifference between the expansion of the tape\nand of the bar is very small.\nThe question of temperature enters only very\nslightly, assuming that the temperature at\nwhich the iron bar is standard has been care-\nfully determined, and that both tape and bar\nare at the same temperature during the com-\nparison.\nThe verification of weights and capacity\nmeasures will be undertaken, and a statement\nissued showing their relation to the United\nStates standards. Weights and measures sub-\nmitted for comparison should conform to cor-\nrect principles of construction. The cost of\nall comparisons for other than State or national\npurposes must be borne by those for whom\nthey are made. The amount is calculated so\nas to cover the cost to the general government\nof the services of the person charged with\nmaking comparisons.\n(See Tables on pages 654, 655.)\n32. Household and Miscellaneous Tables. The\nfollowing tables may be of assistance in\nprescribing fluid preparations. They are;\nTeaspoonf ul about 1 fl. drm.\nDessertspoonful about 2 fl.drm.\nTablespoonful about 4 fl. drm.\nWineglassf ul about 2 fl. oz.\nTeacupful about 4 fl. oz.\nBreakfastcupful about 8 fl. oz.\nTumblerful about 8 fl. oz.\nThimbleful about fl. drm.\nPinch (of leaves and flow- (troy.)\ners) about 1 drm.\nHandful (of leaves and (troy.)\nflowers) about 10 drm.\n8 wineglassfuls, each two fluid ounces, in a\npint.\n32 tablespoonf uls, each one-half fluid ounce, in\na pint.\n16 tablespoonf uls, each one-half fluid ounce, in\nhalf a pint.\n12 tablespoonfuls, each one-half fluid ounce, in\nsix fluid ounces.\n24 dessertspoonfuls, each two fluid drachms, in\nsix fluid ounces.\n16 dessertspoonfuls, each two fluid drachms, in\nfour fluid ounces.\n32 teaspoonf uls, each one fluid drachm, in four\nfluid ounces.\n16 teaspoonf uls, each one fluid drachm, in two\nfluid ounces.\n8 teaspoonf uls, each one fluid drachm, in one\nfluid ounce.\n33. Weights and Measures for Domestic Pur-\nposes. Wheat flour, one pound is a quart.\nIndian meal, one pound two ounces is one\nquart.\nButter, when soft, one pound is one quart.\nWhite sugar, when powdered, one pound one\nounce is one quart.\nBest brown sugar, one pound two ounces is\none quart.\nLiquids.— Sixteen large tablespoonfuls are\nhalf a pint.\nEight large tablespoonfuls are one gill.\nFour large tablespoonfuls are half gill.\nTwenty-five drops are equal to one teaspoon-\nful.\nA common wineglass is equal to a half gill.\nA common tumbler is equal to a half gUL p\n34. To Reduce Parts by Volume, or Measure\nto Parts by Weight.— Multiply the parts by vol-\nume, or measure by the specific gravity of the\ndifferent substances; the result will be parts\nby weight.","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0676.jp2"},"669":{"fulltext":"657\n35. Electrical Horse Power,\nE X C\nCalculated from\n746\n-P\nl, ft\nE.M.F\nin Volts.\nl\\\n10\n20\n30\n40\n50\n60\n70\n80\n90\n100\n110\n120\n130\n140\n150\n5\n0-06\n013\n0-20\n0-28\n0-33\n0-40\n0-47\n0-53\n0-60\n0-67\n0*73\n0-80\n0-87\n93\n10\n10\n013\n0-28\n040\n0*53\n0-67\n0-80\n0-93\n1-07\n1-2\n1-3\n1-4\n1-6\n1-6\n1-9\n20\n20\n0*28\n0-53\n0-80\n1-07\n13\n1-6\n1-9\n2-1\n2 4\n2-7\n2 9\n3-2\n35\n37\n4-0\n30\n0-40\n0 80\n1 2\n1-6\n2-0\n2 4\n2-8\n3 2\n3-6\n4-0\n4*4\n4-8\n5 2\n5 6\n60\n40\n0-53\n1-U7\n1-6\n2-1\n2-6\n3-2\n3-7\n4-2\n+•8\n5-3\n5-9\n6-4\n6-9\n7*5\n8-0\n50\n0*67\n1-30\n2-0\n26\n3 3\n4*0\n46\n5-4\n60\n6-7\n7-4\n8-0\n8-7\n9-4\nio-o\n60\n080\n1-6\n2 4\n3-2\n40\n4-8\n5-6\n6-4\n7-2\n8-0\n8-8\n9-6\n104\n11-2\n12\n70\n0-93\n1-9\n2 8\n37\n4-6\n5-6\n6-5\n7 5\n8-4\n9-4\n10-3\n11-2\n12 3\n13-1\n14*0\n80\n1-07\n2-1\n32\n4 2\n5-4\n64\n7 5\n8-5\n9-6\n10-7\n11-8\n12*8\n13-9\nlo O\n16-0\n90\n1-2\n2-4\n3-6\n4*8\n6-0\n7-2\n8-4\n9 6\n10-8\n12-0\n13-2\n14-4\n15*6\n16-9\n18 0\n100\n1-3\n27\n4-0\n5-3\n6-7\n8-0\n9 4\n10-7\n12-0\n13-4\n14-7\n16-0\n17*4\n18-7\nwo\nno\n1-4\n2-9\n4-4\n5-9\n7-4\n8 8\n10*3\n11-8\n13-2\n14-7\n16-2\n17-6\n19-1\n20*6\n22-0\n120\n15\n3-2\n4*8\n6-4\n8 0\n9-6\n11-2\n12-8\n14-4\n16-0\n17-6\n19 2\n20-9\n22-5\n24-0\n130\n1-6\n35\n5 2\n6-9\n87\n10*4\n12-3\n13-9\n15-6\n17-4\n19*1\n20-9\n22-6\n24-4\n26-0\n140\n1-9\n3-7\n5-6\n75\n9-4\n11-2\n13-1\n15-0\n16 9\n18-7\n20-6\n22-5\n24 4\n26-2\n28-0\n150\n20\n4-0\n6-0\n8-0\nio-o\n12-0\n14-0\n16-0\n18-0\n20-0\n22-0\n24-0\n26-0\n28-0\n30*0\nE.H.P. on current line, under E.M.F.\n3b. Wire Gauges, in Decimal Parts of an Inch.\nW\na\n■a\nin\na a\nO be\nbe\nr\nd co\nO C\nSo\nu 3\nc3\na\na ft\nrd-\nB S\nbe\no\nS* o\ns\nco p\nbJ0^2\nH\n6°\ncOOOOOO\n0-46\n464\n00000\n0-43\n432\n0000\n0-393\n46 0-454\n4\n0-454\n000\n00\n0-362\n40964 0-425\n372\n0-425\n0-331\n3648 0-380\n348\n0-38\n0-307\n32495 0-340\n324\n0-34\n1\n0*283\n2893 1 0-3\n3\n0-3\n2\n0-263\n25763 0-284\n276\n0-284\n3\n0-244\n22942 0-259\n252\n0-259\n4\n0-225\n0-20431! 0-238\n232\n0-238\n5\n0-207\n18194 0-22\n212\n0-22\n6\n0-192\n16202 0-203\n192\n0-203\n7\n0-177\n0-14428 0-18\n176\n0-18\n8\n0-162\n0-12849! 0-165\n16\n0-165\n9\n0-148\n0-11443; 148\n144\n0-148\n10\n0-135\n0- 10189 0-134\n128\n0-134\n11\n0-12\n09074 0T2\n116\n0-12\n12\n0-105\n08081 0-109\n104\n0-109\n13\n0-092\n07196 0-095\n092\n095\n14\n0-08\n0-06408 0-083\n08\n0-083\n15\n0-072\n0-05706 0-072\nII\n072\n072\n16\n0-063\n0-05082 0-065\n064\n0-065\n17\n0-054\n0-04525 0-058\n056\n0-058\n18\n0-047\n0-0403 0-049\n(J\n048\n0-049\n19\n0-041\n0-03589 0-042\n04\n0-04\n20\n21\n035\n0-03196 035\n036\n035\n032\n0-02846 032\n032\n0315\n22\n0-028\n0-02534 0-028\n(1\n028\n0 0295\n23\n0025\n0-02257 025\n024\n0-027\n24\n023\n0201 i 022\n022\n025\n25\n0-02\n00179 002\n02\n0-023\n26\n0-018\n0-01594 0-018\n018\n0205\n27\n0-017\n0-01419 C016\n0164\n01875\n28\n0-016\n0-01264 0014\n0148\n0165\n29\n0-015\n0-01125 013\n0136\n0-0155\n30\n0-014\n0-01002 0-012\n0124\n0-01375\n31\n0-0135\n0-00893 0-010\n(1\n0116\n0- 01 225\n32\n0-013\n0-00795 0-009\n0108\n0-1 1125\n33\no-oii\n0-00703 008\n(1\n01\n0- 01025\n34\no-oi\n0-0063 0-007\n0092\n0-0095\n35\n0-0095\n0-00561 005\n0084\n0-009\n36\n0-009\n0-005 0-004\n0-0076\n0-0075\n37. Table Indicating Size, Weight and Length\nof Iron and Steel Wire.\n+3\nCO\nCO\n-a\n«H\na\n3\np\no\nc3\ni— i\no co\ns\nP-I\n2\nbe-\nP\na\nT-fiXS\no B\nO 1\nB\n03\nc o\nbo\na\nC o\n■PO,\n,60\no\nC\n+3\nU1A\nP\nfc\n3-0\n•362\n34-73\n1834\n5,759\n•102921\n2-0\n•331\n29-04\n1533\n6,886\n•086049\n1-0\n•307\n25-00\n1318\n8,C00\n•074023\n1\n•283\n21-23\n1121\n9,425\n•062901\n2\n•263\n18-34\n968\n10,905\n•054325\n3\n•244\n15-78\n833\n12,674\n•046759\n4\n•225\n1339\n707\n14,936\n•039760\n5\n•207\n11-35\n599\n17,621\n•033653\n6\n•192\n9-73\n514\n20,555\n•028952\n7\n•177\n8-30\n439\n24,906\n•024605\n8\n•162\n6-96\n367\n28,734\n•020612\n9\n•148\n5-80\n306\n34,483\n•017203\n10\n•135\n4-83\n255\n41,408\n•014313\n11\n•120\n3-82\n202\n52,356\n•011309\n12\n•105\n2-92\n154\n68,493\n•008659\n13\n•092\n2-24\n118\n89,286\n•006647\n14\n•080\n1-69\n89\n118,343\n•005026\n15\n072\n1-37\n72\n145,985\n•004071\n16\n•063\n105\n55\n190,476\n•003117\n17\n054\n0-77\n41\n259,740\n002290\n18\n■047\n0-58\n31\n344,827\n•001734\n19\n•041\n0-45\n24\n444,444\n•001320\n20\n•035\n0-32\n17\n625,000\n•000962\n21\n•032\n0-27\n14\n740,741\n•000804\n22\n•028\n0-21\n11\n952,381\n•000615\n23\n•025\n0-175\n9-24\n•0)0491\n24\n•023\n0-140\n7-39\n•000415\n25\n•020\n0-116\n6-124\n•000314\n26\n•018\n0-093\n4-91\n•000254\n27\n•017\n0-083\n4-382\n•000227\n28\n••016\n0-074\n3-907\n•00C201\n29\n•015\n0-061\n3-22\n•HI ml 76\n30\n•014\n0-054\n2-851\n000134\n31\n•0135\n0-050\n2-64\n•000143\n32\n•013\n0-046\n2-428\n100 132\n33\n•on\n0-037\n1-953\n•000095\n34\n•0i0\n030\n1-584\n•0 0078\n35\n•0095\n0025\n1-32\nIII III! 171\n36\n•009\n0-021\n1-161\n•0( 11)11(14","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0677.jp2"},"670":{"fulltext":"38. Resistance and Weight Table.— American Gauge for Cotton and Silk Covered and Bare-\nCopper Wire.— The resistances are calculated tor pure copper wire.\nThe number of feet to the pound is only approximate for insulated wire.\nNo.\nDiameter.\n8\n•12849\n9\n•11443\n10\n•10189\n11\n•09074\n12\n•08081\n13\n•07196\n14\n•06408\n15\n•05707\n16\n•05082\n17\n•04525\n18\n•0403\n19\n•03539\n20\n03196\n21\n•02846\n22\n•02535\n23\n•02257\n24\n•0201\n25\n•0179\n26\n•01594\n27\n•01419\n28\n01264\n29\n•01126\n30\n•01002\n31\n•00893\n32\n•00795\n33\n•00708\n34\n•0063\n35\n•00561\n36\n•005\nFEET PER POUND.\nCotton\nCovered.\n42\n55\n68\n87\n110\n140\n175\n220\n280\n360\n450\n560\n715\n910\n1165\n1445\n1810\n2280\n2805\n3605\n4535\nSilk\nCovered.\n46\n60\n75\n95\n120\n150\n190\n240\n305\n390\n490\n615\n775\n990\n1265\n1570\n1970\n2480\n3050\n3920\n4930\n6200\n7830\n9830\n12420\nNaked.\n20\n25\n32\n40\n50\n64\n80\n101\n128\n161\n203\n256\n324\n408\n514\n649\n818\n1030\n1300\n1640\n2070\n2617\n3287\n4144\n5227\n6590\n8330\n10*60\n13210\nRESISTANCE, NAKED COPPER.\nOhms per\n1000 feet.\n•6259\n•7892\n•8441\n1*254\n1-580\n1-995\n2-504\n3-172\n4-001\n5-04\n6-36\n825\n10-12\n12 76\n16-25\n20-30\n25-60\n32-2\n40 7\n51-3\n64-8\n81-6\n103-\nISO\n164-\n206-\n260-\n328-\n414\nOhms per\nmile.\n3-3\n4-1\n4-4\n6-4\n8-3\n104\n13-2\n16-7\n23-\n26\n33-\n43-\n53\n68-\n85\n108\n135\n170-\n214-\n270-\n343*\n432-\nass-\ness-\n865*\n1033-\n1389-\n1820-\n2200-\nFeet per\nohm.\n1600-\n1272-\n1185\n798-\n633-\n504*\n400*\n316-\n230-\n198\n157-\n121\n99\n76-5\n61-8\n48-9\n39-0\n310\n24-6\n19-5\n15-4\n12-2\n9-8\n7*7\n6-1\n49\n3-8\n29\n2-4\nOhms per\npound.\n•0125\n•0197\n0270\n•0501\n•079\n•127\n•200\n•320\n•512-\n•811\n129\n211\n3-27\n5-20\n8-35\n133\n20-9\n33-2\n52-9\n84-2\n134-\n213\n338\n539\n856\n1357-\n2166*\n3521-\n5469\n39. Weight in Pounds per Mile of Copper Wire.\nNumber.\nRoebling.\nBirmingham.\nBrown Sharpe,\nEnglish Legal\nStandard.\n0000\n2466\n3286\n3375\n2555\n000\n2092\n2884\n2677\n2210\n00\n1750\n2305\n2123\n1933\n1504\n1846\n1684\n1682\n1\n1278\n1437\n1335\n1437\n2\n1104\n1287\n1058\n1216\n3\n950\n1071\n839\n1012\n4\n808\n904\n665\n860\n5\n684\n773\n528\n718\n6\n588\n657\n418\n588\n7\n500\n517\n332\n495\n8\n419\n435\n263\n409\n9\n350\n350\n209\n332\n10\n291\n287\n165\n263\n11\n230\n230\n131\n215\n12\n176\n190\n104\n173\n13\n135\n144\n83\n135\n14\n102\n110\n65\n102\n15\n83\n83\n52\n83\n16\n64\n68\n41\n65\n17\n47\n53-M\n33\n50\n18\n35\n38\n26\n37\n19\n27\n28\n20M\n16M\n26\n20\n19M\n19^\n20%\n21\n16^\n16*4\n13\n16J4\n22\n12^\n12^\n10J4\n12^\n23\n10M\nim\nm\nm\n24\nm\nm\nV/2\nm\n25\nM\nm\nsy a\nVA\n26\n5\n5\n4\n5\n27\n43^\n4\nm\n4\n28\n4\nm\nI W/%\n3)4\n29\nWs\n2%\n2\no\nO\n30\nm\nm\ni IVs\nm","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0678.jp2"},"671":{"fulltext":"659\nSpecific Gravity.\nTables Showing a Comparison of the Degrees of Baume, Cartier and Beck s Areometers, with\nSpecific Gravity Degrees.\n40. For Liquids Li\nghter than Water.\n41. For Liquids Heavier than Water.\nDegrees of\nBaum\ne. Cartier.\nBeck.\nDegrees of\nBaume.\nBeck.\nBaume,\nBaume,\nBeck.\nCartier,\nBeck.\nSp. G\nv. Sp. Gr.\nSp. Gr.\nSp. Gr.\nSp. Gr.\n1-000\n1 1-007\n1 0000\n1-0059\n1-0000\n2 1-014\n10119\n1\n9941\n3 1-020\n1-0180\n2\n0-9883\n4\n1-028\n10241\n3\n0-9826\n5\n1-034\n1-0303\n4\n0-9770\n6\n1-041\n1-0366\n5\n9714\n7\n1-049\n1-0429\n6\n0-965!)\n8\n1-057\n1-0494\n7\n0 96U4\n9\n1-064\n1-0559\n8\n0-9550\n10\n1-072\n1-0625\n9\n9497\n11\n1-080\n1-0692\n10\ni 00(\n9444\n12\n1-088\n1-0759\n11\n0-99J\n1 1000\n9392\n13\n1096\n1-0828\n12\n0 98(\n5 992\n0-9340\n14\n1104\n1-0897\n13\n0-97*\n0*985\n0-928.)\n15\n1113\n1-0968\n14\n0-97J\nJ 0977\n9239\n16\n1121\n1-1039\n15\n0-96\nr 0-969\n0-9189\n17\n1-130\n11111\n16\n96(\n0-962\n9139\n18\n1-138\n1-1184\n17\n0-95\nt 0955\n9090\n19\n1-147\n1-1258\n18\n94!\ni 0948\n0-9042\n20\n1157\n11333\n19\n0-94:\nJ 0-941\n8994\n21\n1-166\n11409\n20\n0-93,\n934\n0-8947\n22\n1-116\n1-1486\n21\n92\n0927\n0-8900\n23\n1-185\n1-1565\n22\n0-92-\n1 0920\n0-8854\n24\n1-195\n1-1644\n23\n91)\nI 0914\n0-8808\n25\n1-205\n1-1724\n24\n0-91S\nI 0908\n0-8762\n26\n1-215\n1-1806\n25\n90(\n5 0-901\n0-8717\n27\n1-225\n1-1888\n26\n090\nL 0-895\n0-8673\n28\n1235\n1-1972\n27\n0-89.\n0 889\n0-8629\n29\n1-245\n1-2057\n28\n0 88\n0-883\n0-85a5\n30\n1-256\n1-2143\n29\n0-88\nI 0*877\n0-8542\n31\n1-267\n1-2230\n30\n0-87\n0871\n0-8500\n32\n1-278\n1-2319\n31\n0-87!\nJ 0865\n0-8457\n33\n1-289\n1-2409\n32\n0-86J\nI 0-859\n0-8415\n34\n1-300\n1-2500\n33\n0-86:\n0-853\n0-8374\n35\n1312\n1-2593\n34\n0-85i\n1 0-848\n0-8333\n36\n1-324\n1-2680\n35\no-85;\nJ 0-842\n0-8292\n37\n1-337\n1-2782\n36\n0-84J\n5 837\n0-8252\n38\n1349\n1-2879\n37\n84;\ni 831\n0-8212\n39\n1-361\n1-2977\n38\n0-83!\n1 0826\n0-8173\n40\n1 375\n1-3077\n39\n0-83\n3 820\n0-8133\n41\n1-388\n1-3178\n40\n0-82\n0-815\n0-8095\n42\n1 401\n1-3281\n41\n82\nI 0810\n0-8061\n43\n1 414\n1-3386\n42\n0-81\n0-805\n0-8018\n44\n1 428\n1-3492\n43\n0-81.\n0-800\n0-7981\n45\n1442\n1-3600\n44\n811\nJ\n0-7944\n46\n1 456\n1-3710\n45\n80\n0*7907\n47\n1-470\n1-3821\n46\n080\nL\n0-7871\n48\n1-485\n13934\n47\n79\ni\n0-7834\n49\n1-500\n1-4050\n48\n079\n0-7799\n50\n1 515\n1-4167\n49\n0-78\n3\n0-7763\n51\n1-531\n1-4286\n50\n0-78\nt\n0-7727\n52\n1 546\n1-4407\n51\n0-78\nL\n0-7692\n53\n1-562\n1-4530\n52\n077\n0*7658\n54\n1578\n14655\n53\n077\ni\n0-7623\n55\n1-596\n14783\n54\n0-76\nj\n0-7589\n56\n1 615\n14912\n55\n076\n3\n0-7556\n57\n1 634\n1-5044\n56\n0-75\n9\n0-7522\n58\n1 653\n1-5179\n57\n0-75\n5\n0-7489\n59\n1 671\n1-5315\n58\n75\n1\n0-7456\n60\n1690\n15454\n59\n074\n3\n07423\n61\n1-709\n1-5596\n60\n74\n1\n0-7391\n62\n1-729\n15741\n61\n74\nJ\n0-7359\n63\n1-750\n1-5888\n62\n073\n5\n0-7328\n64\n1-771\n1-6038\n63\no\n0-7296\n65\n1-793\n1-6190\n64\n0*7265\n66\n1-815\n1-6346\n65\n7234\n67\n1-839\n1-6505\n66\n0-7203\n68\n1 864\n1-6667\n67\n0-7173\n69\n1-885\n1-6832\n68\n0-7142\n70\n1-909\n1-7000\n69\n07112\n71\n1-935\n70\n0-7083\n1 72\nI960","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0679.jp2"},"672":{"fulltext":"","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0680.jp2"},"673":{"fulltext":"APPENDIX.\nPART III.\nChemical Synonyms.\nThe following list of the principal chemicals and their synonyms is intended only as a guide\nto the amateur, who may be saved both time and money by its use, but makes no pretense to\nbeing complete. A complete list of every known chemical would require a volume. The list of\nsynonyms of chemicals which are given at all will be found very complete. Only a few of the\norganic compounds are given, as they will not be much used by the amateur.\nThe authorities consulted are Watt s Dictionary of Chemistry, and the works of Fownes,\nWurtz, Roscoe, Schlorlemmer, Bloxham, Attfield, Fresenius, Cooley, etc., and great care has been\ntaken to avoid mistakes, which are very liable to occur in compilations of this kind.\nThe names of minerals are given in brackets, thus [Halite]. The number of the minerals\nnoticed is not great, as the majority have a more or less complex formula.\nThe chemical symbols are added, as they are really equal to a name.\nThe Latin names, as well as those of other languages, are printed in italics, with the letters\n(L. Ger. or Fr.) for Latin, German and French. Many of the names are obsolete, or nearly so, but\nstill it is of the utmost importance that their exact meaning is given.\nIn general the subject is arranged under the principal constituent thus, to find Potassium\nCarbonate, look for Potassium.\nAeetum:— Vinegar.\nAcetic Acid.:— H(C 2 Hs0 2 Hydrogen Ace-\ntate; Hydric Acetate; Acetulic Acid; Aci-\ndum Aceticum (L.); Acide Acetique (Fr.);\nEssigsdure (Ger.); Pyroligneous Acid; when\nfree from water it is called Acetic Hydrate,\nMonohydrated Acetic Acid, Glacial Acetic\nAcid, Aeetum Glaciale (Fr.); Acid of Vinegar;\nAeidum Aceticum Glaciale (L.); sometimes\ncalled Radical Vinegar.\nAcetylene:— C 2 H 2 Klumene. Ethine.\nAcid:— See the name of the acid; only the\nprincipal ones are given.\nAlcoliol:— C 2 H 6 0. Ethyl Alcohol; Ethyl Hy-\ndrate; Hydroxl-Ethane; Methyl Carbinol;\nMethyl Carbonal AlcoOl (Fr.) Alkaliol\n(Ger.); Rectified Spirits; Proof Spirit; Spirits\nof Wine; S. V.; S. V. R.; and S. V. P.; Alcohol\nVini (L.); Ethylic Alcohol Absolute Alco-\nhol is also called Anhydrous Alcohol.\nAmylic Alcohol. See Fusel Oil.\nMethylic Alcohol :—CH 4 0. Wood Naphtha;\nWood Spirit; Wood Alcohol; Pyroligneous\nSpirit; Pyroxylic Spirit.\nAldehyd:— C 2 H 4 0. Aldehyde; Acetic Alde-\nhyde; Ethyl Aldehyde; Hydrated Oxide of\nAcetyle, or Acetule; Hydrate of Othyle;\nAcetaldehyd; Hydride of Acetyl.\nAlum:— A1 2 (S0 4 3 .K 2 S0 4 +24H 2 0. Double Sul-\nphate of Aluminum and Potassium; Sul-\nphate of Aluminum and Potassium; Octa-\nhedral Alum Salt; Potash-Alum; Alumen,\nA. Potassicum (L.); Alun (Fr.); Alaun (Ger.).\nAlum, Ammonia A1 2 (S0 4 3 .(NH 4 2 S0 4 +24\nH 2 0. Alumen Ammoniatum (L.); Sulphate\nof Aluminum and Ammonium; Aluminii et\nAmmonii Sulphas (L.).\nAlum, Burnt :—K 2 Al 2 (S0 4 4 Dried Alum;\nAlumen Exsiccatum (L.); Alun Sec (Fr.;.\nAlum Chrome: Cr 2 (S0 4 2 .K 2 S0 4 24H 2 0.\nDouble Sulphate of Chromium and Potas-\nsium.\nAlum, Iron:— Fe 2 (S0 4 3 .K 2 S0 4 +24H 2 0. Alu-\nmen Ferricum, Sulphas Ferri et Potassce (L.).\nAlum, Roman: Red Alum; Roman Alum;\nRoach Alum; [Alum Stone] Roche Alum\n(Fr.); Rock Alum; Alumen Romanum (L.);\nAlum Rupeum (L.); Cubical Alum; impure\nvariety of alum containing iron.\nAlum, Soda :-Na 2 S0 4 .Al 2 (S0 4 3 .24H 2 0. Sul-\nphas Aluminas et Sodw (L.); Solfaterite.\nAluminium: Al. Aluminum, English,\nFrench, and Latin; Aluminum (Ger.) It\nhas been proposed to shorten it to Alium.\nAluminium Acetate:— A1 2 (C 2 H 3 2 3 Acetate\nof Alumina.\nAluminium Chloride A1 2 C1 6 Sesquichloride\nof Aluminum: Aluminii Chloridi (L)., Chlo-\nralum (Impure).\nAluminium Fluoride A1F 3\nAluminium Hydrate Al 2 (HO) 6 Aluminum\nHydroxide; Hydrated Alumina, Aluminii\nHydras (L).\nAluminium Nitrate:— A1 2 (N0 3 6 Nitrate of\nAlumina Alumince Nitras (L).\nAluminium Oxide:— A1 2 3 Alumina; [Emery\nand Corundum are varieties of the oxide,\nAdamantine Spar.] Alumine.\nAluminium Silicate :—Al 2 (Si0 2 3 Silicate of\nAlumina.\nAluminium Sodium Fluoride :—AlF 3 .2NaF.\n[Cryolite.]","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0681.jp2"},"674":{"fulltext":"662\nAluminium Sulphate A1 2 (S0 4 3 18H 2 0.\nNeutral Sulphate of Alumina Sesquisul-\nphate of Alumina; [Alunogen] Aluminii\nSulphas (L.) Sometimes called cake alum\nor concentrated alum (erroneous).\nAluminium Sulphide A1 2 S 3 Sulphide of\nAluminium.\nAminonia:-NH 3 Anhydrous Ammonia;\nAmmonia Gas Volatile Alkali Volatile\nAir Ammoniacal Gas; Terhydride of Nitro-\ngen Ammoniaque (Fr.) Ammoniak (Ger.).\nAmmonia, Solution of:— Ammonia; Ammo-\nnia Water Liquor Ammo nice, (L.); Spirits\nof Sal Ammoniac Ammonium Hydrate\nAmmonia; Spirits of Hartshorn; Ammo-\nniaque Liquide, Esprit de Sal Ammoniac\n(Fr.); Salmiak-Oeist (Ger.); Aqua Ammo-\nnice (L.).\nAmmonium:— (NH 4\nAmmonium, Acetate (NH 4 )C2H 3 02. Am-\nmonice Acetas (L.); Spirit of Mindererus\n(Med.)\nAmmonium Arseniate:— (NH 4 3 As0 4 Am-\nmonii Arsenias (L.).\nAmmonium Binarseniate (NH 4 2 As0 4\nAmmonium Arsenite NH 4 As0 2 Ammonice\nArsenis (L.).\nAmmonium Benzoate:— NH 4 ,C 7 H 5 2 Solutio\nAmmonice Benzoas Ammonii Benzoas (L.).\nAmmonium Bromide NH 4 Br. Ammonii\nBromidum Ammonii Bromis (L.).\nAmmonium Carbonate There are three car-\nbonates of ammonia.\nAmmoniaNormalCarbonate:-(NH 4 2 C0 3 ,H 2 0.\nDi-ammonic Carbonate Volatile Salt\nSmelling Salts Sal Volatile (alcoholic solu-\ntion); Neutral Carbonate of Ammonium;\nCarbonate of Oxide of Ammonium.\nAmmonium Sesquicarbonate (NH 4 4 H 2\n(C0 3 3 ,H 2 0. Tetraammonio-dihydric Car-\nbonate; Half -acid Carbonate of Ammo-\nnia Ammonii Carbonas (L.); Preston Salts\nSmelling Salts; Volatile Spirits of Harts-\nhorn.\nAmmonium Bicarbonate H(NH 4 )C0 3 Acid\nCarbonate of Ammonium; Ammonium and\nHydrogen Carbonate Ammonio-hydric\nCarbonate; Mono- Ammoniac Carbonate.\nAmmonium Chloride:— NH 4 C I. Sal Ammo-\nniac LSalmiak] Ammonic Chloride Hy-\ndrochlorate of Ammonia; Ammonia Muria-\ntica (L.); Ammoniac Chloride Muriate of\ni Ammonia; Sel Ammoniac (Fr.); Ammonii\nChloridum (L.).\nAmmonium Citrate (NH 4 2 HC 6 H 5 7 Ci-\ntrate of Oxide of Ammonia Ammonice Ci-\ntras (L.) Di-ammonium Citrate.\nAmmonium Ferrocyanide (NH 4 4 FeC 6 N 6\n3Aq.\nAmmonium Iodide NH 4 I. Hydriodate of\nAmmonia Ammonii Iodidum (L.).\nAmmonium Nitrate (NH 4 )N0 3 Ammonice\nNitras (L.) Nitrous Ammoniacal Salt Ni-\ntrate of Oxide of Ammonium.\nAmmonium Nitrite Hyponitrite of Ammo-\nnium Nitrite of Oxide of Ammonium.\nAmmonium Oxalate (NH 4 2 G 2 4 Ammo-\nnice Oxalis (L.) Ammonic Oxalate.\nAmmonium Phosphates (NH 4 3 P0 4 Nor-\nmal Ammonium Phosphate.\nAmmonium Phosphate (NH 4 3 HP0 4 Am-\nmonii Phosphas (L.) Tribasic Phosphate\nof Ammonium.\nAmmonium Sodium and Hydrogen Phos-\nphate:— Na(NH 4 )HP0 4 4H 2 0. Microcosmic\nSalt; Phosphorus Salt; Fusible Salt of\nUrine.\nAmmonium Sulphate (NH 4 2 S0 4 Glau-\nber s Secret Salt Glauber s Secret Sal Am-\nmoniac; Sulphate of Oxide of Ammonia;\nAmmonice Sulphas (L.) Ammoniacal Secret\nSalt of Glauber.\nAmmonium Sulphocyanide NH 4 CNS.\nAmmonium Sulphide:— (NH 4 2 S. Ammonic\nSulphide; Sulphuret of Ammonium; Hy-\ndrosulphuret of Ammonia.\nAmmonium Sulphohydrate NH 4 HS. Sul-\nphide of Ammonia Hydrosulphide of\nAmmonia; Hydrosulphate of Ammonia\nAmmonium and Hydrogen Sulphide Bihy-\ndrosulphuret of Ammonia.\nAmmonium Persulphide Hoffman s Vo-\nlatile Spirit of Sulphur Boyles Fuming\nLiquor (Obsolete); Ammonice Perhydrosul-\nphas (L.).\nAmmonium Sulphite :-(NH 4 5 S0 3 7Aq. Sul-\nphite of Oxide of Ammonium.\nAmmonium Sulphocyanide NH 4 CNS.\nAmmonium Tartrate :—(NH 4 2 C 4 H 4 O e Am-\nmonice Tartras CL.).\nAmmonium Bitartrate NH 4 HC 4 H 4 6 Am-\nmonice Bitartras (L.).\nAmmonium Valerianate NH 4 C 5 H 9 2 Am-\nmonii Valerianas (L.).\nAmyl x-CsHu. (The Radical.)\nAmyl Acetate:— C 5 HiiC 2 H 3 02. Pearl oil.\nAmyl Nitrite:— C 5 H U N0 2 Amyl Mtris\n(L.).\nAmyl, Valerianate of CsHnCsHgOa. Apple\noil.\nAniline C 6 H 5 .NH 2 Phenylamine; Anilina\n(L.).\nAntimony Metallic, Sb.; Regulus of An-\ntimony; Stibium (L.); Antimone (Fr.);\nSpiessgla7iz (Ger.).\nAntimony, Butter of Antimony Trichlo-\nride.\nAntimony, Trichloride:— SbCl 3 Terchlor-\nide of Antimony; Antimonious Chloride;\nButter of Antimony; Chloride of Anti-\nmony; Sesquichloride of Antimony; Caus-\ntic Antimony; Antimonii Chloridum (L.).\nAntimony, Pentachloride SbCl 5 Antimonii\nPentachloridum (L.).\nAntimony, Diaphoretic Antimoniate of\nPotash; Stibiated Kali (L.); Calcined Anti-\nmony; Antimoniate of Potash.\nAntimony, Flowers of Sb 2 3 White Oxide\nof Antimony.\nAntimony, Triftuoride SbF 3\nAntimony, Pentafluoride SbF 5","height":"4352","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0682.jp2"},"675":{"fulltext":"663\nAntimony, Glass of Vitrified Antimony;\nGray Oxide of Antimony; Vitrified Oxide\nof Antimony; Antimonii Vitrum (L.).\nAntimony, Hydride :—SbH 3 Stibine; Hy-\ndrogen Antimonide; Antimonious Hy-\ndride.\nAntimony, Liver of :—Hepar Antimonii (L.).\nAntimony Trioxide Sb 2 3 Antimonious\nOxide; Protoxide of Antimony; Hypanti-\nmonious Acid; Oxide of Antimony; Terox-\nide of Antimony; Antimonii Oxidum (L.).\nAntimony, Tetroxide Sb 2 4 Antimonious\nAcid; Antimony-Antimonate; [Cervantite];\nAntimonoso-Antimonic Oxide; Diantimo-\nnic Tetroxide.\nAntimony Pentoxide Sb 2 5 Antimonic\nOxide.\nAntimony, Oxychloride of SbOCl. Powder\nof Algaroth.\nAntimony, Oxysulphide of Sb 2 3 2Sb 2 S 8\nAntimony, Red Oxysulphide of Antimony;\nOxysulphuret of Antimony; Crocus of An-\ntimony. See Oxysulphide, above.\nAntimony, Regulus of Regulus Antimonii\n(L.); Metallic Antimony.\nAntimony, Sulphurated Precipitated Sul-\nphide of Antimony; Oxysulphuret of Anti-\nmony Golden Sulphuret of Antimony;\nAntimonium Sidphuratum (L.).\nAntimony, Pentasulphide Sb 2 S 5 Anti-\nmonic Sulphide^ Sulphur Auratum (L.).\nAntimony, Trisulphide Sb 2 S 3 Antimoni-\nous Sulphide; Sulphide of Antimony; Black\nSulphide of Antimony; Tersulphide of An-\ntimony; Sulphuret of Antimony; Sesqui-\nsulphuret of Antimony; Gray Antimony\nLStibnite Antimonite; Antimony Glance]\nCrude Antimony; Judex Ultimus (L.).\nAntimony, Tartarated: KSbOC 4 H 4 6 .Aq.\nAntimonii et Potassii Tartras (L.). Tartar\nEmetic; Emetic Tartar; Tartarized Anti-\nmony; Antimonium Tartaratum (L.).\nAqua, Water:\nAqua Ammoniae. See Ammonia, Solution\nof.\nAquafortis Nitric Acid.\nAqua Regia Nitro-hydrochloric acid.\nAqua Vitas Native distilled spirit, usually\nFrench brandy.\nArgol See Potassium Bitartrate.\nArsenic As. Arsenium Arsenicum (L.).\nArsenic Anhydride As 2 6 Arsenic Acid;\nAnhydrous Arsenic Acid; Acidum Arseni-\ncum (L.).\nArsenious Anhydride As 2 3 Arsenious\nAcid; Arsenic; White Arsenic; Arsenic\nBlanc (Ft.): [Arsenolite.]\nArsenic Tribromide AsBr 3 Sesquibromide\nof Arsenic; Terbromide of Arsenic; Ar-\nsenici Bromidum (L.).\nArsenic Trichloride AsCl 3 Chloride of Ar-\nsenic; Arsenious Chloride; Terchloride of\nArsenic Sesquichloride of Ai senic Fum-\ning Liquor of Arsenic.\nArsenic, Fluoride of AsF 3 Arsenious Fluo-\nride Arsenic Trifl uoride Terfluoride of\nArsenic.\nArsenious Hydride AsH 3 Arsenetted\nHydrogen Arsine Trihydride of Arsenic.\nArsenic Dilrydride AsH or As 2 H 4\nArsenic Triodide Asl 3 Arsenious Iodide.\nArsenious Oxide As 2 3 White oxide of\nArsenic.\nArsenic Disulphide As 2 S 2 Arsenic Bisul-\nphide [Realgar] Red Sulphide of Arsenic\nBisulphuret; Red Sulphuret of Arsenic.\nArsenic Trisulphide As 2 S 3 Arsenious Sul-\nphide; [Orpiment]; Yellow Sulphide of\nArsenic Sesquisulphide of Arsenic Ter-\nsulphide of Arsenic Tersulphuret of Ar-\nsenic King s Yellow.\nArsenic Pentasulphide As 2 S 5 Sulpharsenic\nAcid Persulphuret of Arsenic.\nArsenide:— Arseniuret; Arseniuretum (L.).\nArsenile i—Arsenis (L.).\nAzote Nitrogen Azotum (L.).\nBarium Ba.\nBarium Acetate Ba(C 2 H 3 2 Barytce Ace-\ntas (L.).\nBarium Arseniate:— Ba 3 (P0 4 2 Barytce Ar-\nsenics (L.).\nBarium Arsenite;— Ba(As0 2 2 Barytce Ar-\nsenis (L.).\nBarium Bromide BaBr 2 Barii Bromidum\n(L.).\nBarium Carbonate;— BaCO s Carbonate of\nBaryta Barytce Carbonas, (L.); Boric Car-\nbonate.\nBarium Chloride BaCl 2 .2H 2 0. Barii Chlori-\ndum (L.).; Baric Chloride.\nBarium Chlorate;— Ba(C10 3 2 Chlorate of\nBaryta; Barytce Chloras (L.).\nBarium, Ferrocyanide of Ba 2 FeC 6 N 8 Barii\nFerrocyanidum (L.).\nBarium Hydrate Ba(HO) 2 Hydrate of\nBaryta Barytce Hydras (L.)\nBarium Iodide Ba 2 I. Barii Iodidum (L.).\nBarium Nitrate Ba(N0 3 2 Barytce Nitras\n(L.) Nitrate of Baryta.\nBarium Oxalate BaC 2 4 Oxalate of Ba-\nryta Barytce Oxalas (L.).\nBarium Monoxide BaO. Baryta Barytes\nCaustic Baryta Oxide of Barium.\nBarium Dioxide Ba0 2 Barium Peroxide;\nHyperoxide of Barium Deutoxide of Ba-\nrium Barii Binoxydum (L.).\nBarium Phosphate Ba(P0 4 2\nBarium Sulphate BaS0 4 Sulphate of Ba-\nryta [Barite, Heavy Spar] Barytce Sul-\nphas (L.).\nBarium Sulphide BaS Sulphuret of Ba-\nryta Barium Monosulphide Barie Sul-\nphide.\nBarium Sulphite:— BaS0 3 Sulphite of Ba-\nryta.\nBarium Tartrate:— BaC 4 H 4 6 Tartrate of\nBaryta.\nBenzoic A«-id H(C 7 H 6 2 or C 7 H 6 2\nHydrated Benzoyl Acidum Benzoicum (L.);","height":"4370","width":"2616","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0683.jp2"},"676":{"fulltext":"664\nSalt of Benzoin Flowers of Benzoin or\nBenjamin.\nBenzol C 6 H 6 Benzole Benzine Benzene;\nBenzin; Hydride of Phenyl; Phenyl Hy-\ndride Phene. Benzol (true) and Benzine\nshould not be conf ounde d. See those heads\nin the body of the Cyclopedia.\nBenzol, Nitro:— See Nitrobenzol.\nBenzoyl C 7 H 5 0.\nBenzoyl Hydride C 7 H 5 OH. Essential Oil of\nBitter Almonds Essence of Bitter Al-\nmonds. Sometimes called Volatile Oil of\nBitter Almonds.\nBismuth Bi. Etain de Glace (Fr.) Wis-\nmuth (Ger.).\nBismuth Chloride (Basic) Bi 3 Cl 8 Subchlo-\nride of Bismuth Pearl Powder Bismuthi\nSubchloridum (L.).\nBismuth Chloride BiCl 3 Terchloride of\nBismuth Butter of Bismuth.\nBismuth Hydroxide:— BiH0 2\nBismuth Subnitrate BiON0 3 Basic Nitrate\nof Bismuth; Pearl White; Flake White;\nBlanc de Fard (Fr.) Bismuthi Subnitras (L.).\nBismuth (Normal) Nitrate Bi(N0 3 3 ,5H 2 0.\nNeutral Nitrate Ternitrate.\nBismuth Trioxide: Bi 2 3 Bismuthous\nOxide Teroxide of Bismuth Protoxide of\nBismuth.\nBismuth Pentoxide Bi 2 5 Bismuthic Ox-\nide Bismuthic Anhydride Bismuthic Acid.\nBismouthous Sulphide :-Bi 2 S 3 [Bismuthinite;\nBismuth Glance].\nBoracic Acid B(OH) 8 Boric Acid; Hydro-\ngen Borate; Sedative Salt; Acidum Boraci-\ncum (L.); Sedative Salt of Vitriol.\nBoric Acid See Boracic Acid above.\nBoric Anhydride:— B 2 3 Boric Oxide; Boro-\ncic Anhydride; Anhydrous Boracic Acid.\nBorate: Boras (L.).\nBorax :—Na 2 B 4 O 7 ,10H 2 O. Biborate of Soda;\nPyroborate of Soda; Borate of Soda; Sub-\nborate of Soda [Tincal].\nBoron B.\nBoron Trisulphide B 2 S 3\nBoron Nitride BN.\nBromide i—Bromidum (L.); Bromuret; Hy-\ndrobromate.\nBromine Br. Brominium (L.); Brbme (Fr.).\nCadmium:— Cd. Klaprophium.\nCadmium, Carbonate of: CdCo 3 Cadmii\nCarbonas (L.).\nCadmium, Chloride of CdCl 2 Muriate of\nCadmium; Hydrochlorate of Cadmium;\nCadmii Chloridum (L.).\nCadmium, Iodide Cdl 2 Hydriodate of\nCadmium; Cadmii Iodidum (L.).\nCadmium, Oxide:— CdO. Protoxide of Cad-\nmium; Cadmii Oxydum (L.).\nCadmium, Sulphate: CdS0 4 .4H 2 0. Cadmii\nSulphas (L.).\nCadmium, Sulphide.— CdS. Cadmium Yellow;\n[Greenockite].\nCaffeine:— C 8 H ]0 N 4 O 2 .H 2 O. Theine; Caffeina-\n(L.).\nCalcium: Ca\nCalcium Acid Phosphate:— CaH 4 ,2P0 4 Sol-\nuble acid Phosphate; Superphosphate of\nLime.\nCalcium Bromide.-CaBr 2 Calcii Bromidum (L.)\nCalcium Carbonate CaC0 3 Calcii Carbonas\n(L.); Creta Praecipitata [Chalk Limestone;\nMarble Calcite Calc Spar].\nCalcium Chloride CaCl 2 Calcii Chloride; Cal-\ncii Chloridum (L.). Muriate of Lime Fixed\nAmmoniacal Salt; Chlorinated Lime; Bleach-\ning Powder Calcium Hypochlorite. These\nthree are realiy a mixture CaCl 2 CaCl 2 2\nCalcium Fluoride :—CaF 2 Hydronuorate of\nLime; [Fluorite].\nCalcium Hydroxide Ca(OH) 2 Calcic Hy-\ndrate; Lime Water; Liquor Calcis (L.).\nCalcium Iodide Cal 2 Hydriodate of Lime;.\nCalcii Iodidum (L.).\nCalcium Monoxide CaO; Lime; Calcic Oxide,\nCalcium Dioxide Ca0 2\nCalcium Nitrate Ca(N0 3 2 Lime Saltpeter.\nCalcium Phosphate Ca 3 (P0 4 2 Calcii Phos-\nphas (L.) Tricalcic Phosphate.\nMonocalcic Orthophosphate CaHP0 4\nTetrahydro-Calcic Phosphate H 4 0a(P0 4 2\nCalcium Phosphide:— P 2 Ca 2 Phosphuret of\nLi me Calcii Phosphuretum L\nCalcium Hypophosphite Ca(P0 2 H 2 2\nCalcium Sulphate:— CaS0 4 ,2H 2 0. Calcii Sul-\nphas (L.); [Gypsum; Calcic Sulphate; Plaster\nof Paris; Selenite] Calcic Sulphate Bihy-\ndrate of Lime.\nCalcium Protosulphide CaS. Calcium Mo-\nnosulphide.\nCalcium Bisulphide CaS 2\nCalcium Pentasulphide:— CaS 5\nCalcium Sulphide:— CaS. Calcium, Sulphuret\nof Calcium Monosulphide.\nCamplior CioHi 6 0. Camphire; Laurel\nCamphor; Camphora, (L.).\nCarbolic Acid:— C 6 H 6 0. Phenol; Phenyl\nAlcohol Phenic Acid Phenylic Acid\nPhenylic Alcohol; Hydrate of Phenyle;\nCoal Tar Creosote; Six Carbon Phenol;\nHydrated Oxide of Phenyle Acidum Car-\nbolicum (L.).\nCapric Acid HC 10 H 19 O 2 Rutic Acid;\nAcidum Capricum (L.).\nCarbon x—Carbo (L.) Carbone, (Fr.) Kohl-\nenstoff (Ger.).\nCarbon Monochloride C 2 C1 2 Subchloride\nof Carbon.\nCarbon Protochloride C 2 C1 4 Carbon Di-\nchloride Tetrachlorethane.\nCarbon Sesquichloride C^Cl^ Trichloride of\nCarbon Hexchlorethane Perchloride of\nCarbon.\nCarbon Tetrachloride :—CCl 4 Bichloride of\nCarbon Tetrachloromethane.\nCarbon Oxychloride C0C1 2 Phosgene Gas\nChlorocarbonic Acid Chloride of CarbonyL\nCarbon Monosulphide:— CS.","height":"4244","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0684.jp2"},"677":{"fulltext":"665\nCarbon Sulphide :-CS 2 Carbon Disulphide\nCarbon Bisulphide Bisulphide of Carbon\nSulphuret of Carbon; Carbonei Bisulphidum\n(L.) Bisulphuret of Carbon Sulpho- carbo-\nnic Acid.\nCarbon Oxysulphide COS. Carbonyl Sul-\nphide.\nCarbonic Anhydride C0 2 Carbonic Acid\nCarbon Dioxide Choke Damp.\nCarbonic Oxide:— CO. Carbon Monoxide;\nProtoxide of Carbon; Gaseous Oxide of Car-\nbon.\nFor other carbon compounds see Acetyline,\nOlefiant Gas.\nCerin nC 2 7H5 3 2 Cerotic Acid.\nCerotic Acid s— See Cerin.\nCetin C 32 H 64 2\nCetraric Acid C 18 H 16 8 Cetrarin.\nChalk Calcium Carbonate; Carbonate of\nLime.\nChloral Hydrate: C 2 HCl 3 O.Aq. Hydrate\nof Chloral; Chloral.\nChlorate Hyperoxymuriate; (Moras (L.).\nChloride Chloruret CI dum (L.).\nChloride of Lime:- B hing Powder;\noften called Calcium Chloride, (improperly).\nChlorine CI. Chlorinum (L.) Chlore (Ft.)\nChlor (Ger.).\nHydrochloric Acid HC1. See Hydrochlo-\nric Acid.\nHypochlorous Acid HC10.\nChlorous Acid:— HC10 2 Acidum Chlorosum\n(L.).\nChloric Acid HC10 3 Hyperoxymuriatic\nAcid Acidum Chlor icum (L.).\nPerchloric Acid HC10 4\nChloroform CHC1 3 Chloroformyl Me-\nthenyl Chloride Terchloride of Formyle\nFormyle Chloride Terchloromethane\nChloroformvm (L.) Perchloride of For-\nmyle; Tri-chloro- methane.\nChromate Chromas (L.) for Potassium\nDichromate, etc., see Potassium, etc.\nChromium Cr.\nChromous Chloride :—CrCl 2 Protochloride.\nChromic Acid Cr0 3 Chromic Anhydride\nChromium Trioxide Acidum Chromicum\n(It.); Anhydrous Chromic Acid.\nChromic Chloride Cr 2 Cl 6 Sesqui chloride.\nChromyl Dichloride Cr0 2 Cl 2 Chromium\nDioxydichloride; Chlorochromic Acid.\nChromous Oxide CrO. Protoxide of Chro-\nmium Monoxide of Chromium Green\nOxide of Chromium Chrome Green.\nChromic Oxide Cr 2 3 Sesquioxide.\nTrichromic Tetroxide Cr 3 4\nChromic Anhydride CrO 3 Chromic Acid;\nChromic Trioxide; Anhydrous Chromic\nAcid.\nCitric Acid C 6 H R 7 or C 3 H 4 (OH) 2 (C0 2 H) 3\nAcid of Lemons; Acidum Citricum (L.);\nSalt of Lemons.\nCobalt Co. Regulus of Cobalt; Cobaltun.\n(L.).\nCobalt Acetate Co(C 2 H 3 2 2\nCobalt Arseniate Co 3 2As0 3 ,8H 2 O.\nCobalt Carbonate:— CoCO 3.\nCobalt Chloride CoCl 2 Muriate of Cobalt\nHydrochloride of Cobalt Dichloride Co-\nbaltous Chloride.\nCobalt Trichloride :—Co 2 Cl 6 Cobaltic Chlo-\nride.\nCobalt Nitrate :-Co(No 3 2 Cobalto us Nitrate.\nCobalt Oxalate CoC 2 4\nCobalt Protoxide CoO. Oxide of Cobalt;\nCobalt Black Gray and Black Oxide of Co-\nbalt Cobalt Monoxide Cobaltous Oxide\n[Asbolite].\nCobalt Sesquioxide:— Co 2 3 Peroxide of Co-\nbalt Cobaltic Oxide.\nCoboltoso- Cobaltic Oxide:— Co 3 4\nCobalt Phosphate Co 3 (P0 4 2\nCobalt Sulphate CoS0 4\nCobalt Sulphide CoS. Bisulphide, CoS 2\nSesquisulphide, Co 2 S 3\nCopper:— Cu. Cuprum (L.).\nCopper, Acetate Cu(C 2 H 3 2 2 Neutral or\nNormal Acetate of Copper; Crystallized\nVerdigris Crystals of Venus.\nCopper, Basic Acetates Sub- Acetates of\nCopper Basic Cupric Acetates.\nCopper, Ammonio-Sulphate of: (N 2 H 8 Cu\nS0 4 Sulphate of Cupra- Ammonium Cu-\npro-Sulphate of Ammonia; Cupri Ammonio-\nSulplias (L.).\nCopper Arsenite: Cu(As0 2 2 Scheele s\nGreen.\nCopper Carbonate CuC0 3 CuH 2 2 Di-\nbasic Carbonate of Copper Dicarbonate of\nCopper [Malachite] Green Copper Carbon-\nate.\nCuprous Chloride CuCl. Dichloride of\nCopper; Subchloride of Copper.\nCopper Chloride CuCl 2 Neutral Chloride\nof Copper Cupric Chloride.\nCopper Oxychloride CuCl 2 .3Cu0.4H 2 0.\nCuprous Hydride Cu 2 H 2\nCupric Iodide :—CuI 2 Iodide of Copper;\nDiniodide of Copper.\nCupric Nitrate Cu(N0 3 2 ,3H 2 0„ Nitrate of\nCopper Cupri Nitras (L.).\nCuprous Oxide:— Cu 2 0. Red Oxide of Cop-\nper; Dinoxide; Sub-oxide; Cupri Suboxy-\ndum (L.); [Cuprite Red Copper Ore.]\nCupric Oxide CuO. Protoxide of Copper\nOxide of Copper Black Oxide of Copper;\nCupri Protoxydum (L.); [Melaconite].\nCopper Phosphide: Cu 3 P 2\nCupric Sulphate :—CuS0 4 .5Aq. Sulphate of\nCopper; Blue Vitriol; Blue Copperas;\nCupri Sulphas (L.); Blue Stone; Roman\nVitriol [Chalcontrite.]\nCopper Sulphide CuS. Cupric Sulphide.\nCnprous Sulphide:— Cu 2 S. Copper Subsul-\nphide; [Chalcocite; Chalcocine; Vitrious\nCopper; Copper Glance].\nCopperas, Blue:— Copper Sulphate of Cop-\nper.","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0685.jp2"},"678":{"fulltext":"666\nCopperas, Green Iron Sulphate.\nCopperas, White Zinc Sulphate.\nCreosote See Kreasote,\nEau (Fr.) Water:— See also Aqua.\nEau de Mer:— Salt of Sea Water.\nEau Distillee: —Distilled Water.\nEau de Yie Brandy; Aqua Vitae.\nEau Eorte Nitric Acid.\nEikonogen Eiko.\nEther:— (C 2 H 5 2 .0. or C 4 H 10 O. Oxide of Ethyl.\nSee Ethyl.\nEthyl C 2 H 5 Ethyle; JEthyle (L.); Etnule.\nEthyl Acetate C 2 H 6 C2H 3 02. Acetic Ether\nPyroligneous Ether Acetate of Oxide of\nEthyl, or Ethule; JEther Aceticus (L.).\nEthyl Benzoate C 2 H 5 C T H 5 02 Benzoic\nEther; Benzoate of Ether; JEther Benzol-\ncus (L.).\nEthyl Bromide :—C 2 H 5 Br. JEther Hydrdbro-\nmicus (L.); Bro methane Hydrobromic\nEther.\nEthyl Butyrate C2H5C4H7O2. Pineapple\nOil Butyric Ether.\nEthyl Carbonate: (C 2 H 5 )2C0 3 Carbonic\nEther; Carbonate of Oxide of Ethyl;\nJEther Carbonicus (L.).\nEthyl Chloride :-C 2 H 5 Cl. Chloride of Ethyl\nLight Hydrochloric Ether JEther Hydro-\nchloricus (L.); Chlorethane Hydrochloric\nEther Muriatic or Chlorhydric Ether.\nEthyl, Cyanide of C 2 H 5 CN. JEther Hydro-\ncynicus (L.); Propionitrile.\nEthyl, Cyanate of C 2 H 5 CNO. Cyanic Ether;\nCyanate of Oxide of Ethyl.\nEthyl, Cyanurate of:— (C 2 H5) 3 C 3 N 3 3 Cy-\nanurate of Oxide of Ethyl.\nEthyl Iodide C 2 H 5 I. JEther Hydriodicus\n(L.). Iodethane Hydriodic Ether.\nEther, Methylic C 2 H 6 0. Oxide of Methyl\nWood-Ether Methyl-Ethyl; Ethyl-Methyl;\nEthyl-Methyl Oxide Ethel Methyl Ether\nEthyl Methylate Methyl Ethylate.\nEthyl Nitrate: C 2 H 5 N0 3 Nitric Ether;\nHyponitrous Ether Nitrite of Ether Ni-\ntrite of Oxide of Ethyl Hyponitrite\nof Ethyl JEther Nitrosus (L.)\nEthyl Nitrite:— C 2 H 5 N0 2 Nitrous Ether.\nEthyl, OSnanthate of:— CEnanthic Ether;\nPelargonic Ether QDnanthate of Oxide of\nEthyl.\nEthyl Oxalate (C 2 H 2 C 2 4 Oxalic Ether\nOxalate of Oxide of Ethyl; JEther Oxali-\ncus (L.).\nEthyl Oxide (C 4 H 10 O). Ether Sulphuric\nEther; JEther; JEther Sulphuricus, (L.).\nEther Ethylic Ether Hydrate of Ether.\nEthyl Phosphates:— (C 2 H 5 )H2P0 4 Monet hylic\nPhosphate; Phospho vinic Acid Eth yl-\nphosphoric Acid.\nDiethylic Phosphate (C 2 H 5 )2,HP0 4 Di-\nethylphosphoric Acid.\nTriethylic Phosphate (C 2 H 5 3 P0 4\nTetrethylic Pyrophosphate (C 2 H 5 )PO 2\nEthyl Phosphites:— Triethyl Phosphite (Sym-\nmetrical) P(O.C 2 H 5 3 0.\nEthylphosphoric Acid:— (C 2 H 5 )PO(OH) 2\nEthyl Sulphate C 2 H 6 S0 4 Acid Ethyl Sul-\nphate Ethyl Sulphuric Acid Sulphovinic\nAcid.\nFerric and Ferrous Salts. See Iron.\nFerricyanide Eerridcyanide Ferridcy-\nanuret.\nFerricyanogen Ferridcyanogen Ferric-\ncyanogen.\nFerrocyanide Ferrocyanuret Prussiate\nFerrocyanidum (L.).\nFerroeyanogen z—Ferrocyanogenium (L.).\nFluohydric Acid:— Fluoride of Hydrogen.\nFluoride of Hydrogen HF. Fluohydric\nAcid Hydrofluoric Acid Acidum Hydro-\nfluoricum (L.).\nFluorine F. Fluorinium (L.).\nFluosilicic Acid:— H 2 SiF 6 Hydrofluosilicic\nAcid Silicofluoric Acid.\nFormate Formiate.\nFormic Acid :-HCH0 2 Hydrogen Formiate\nFormobenzoic Acid :-HC 7 H 6 0,CH0 2 Man\ndelic Acid Formiate of Hydride of Ben-\nzoyle Phenylgly collie Acid.\nFusel Oil:— C 5 H n HO. Fousel Oil; Potato\nOil Oil of Potato Spirit Grain Oil Grain\nSpirit Oil Marc Brandy Oil Amylic Al-\ncohol; Hydrated Oxide of Amyl; Amilic\nAlcohol; Bihydrate of Amilen; Pentylic\nAlcohol Isobutyl Corbinol Isopentyl\nAlcohol.\nGall ate z—Gallas (L.).\nGallic Acid C 7 H 6 5 Acidum Gallicum(L.);\nTrioxylbenzoic Acid Dioxysalicylic.\nGlycerine C 3 H fi 3 Glycerin Hydrated\nOxide of Glyceryl; Glycerinum (L.); Pro-\npenyl Alcohol Glyceryl.\nGold Au. Aurum (L.); Or (Ft.); Gold (Ger.).\nGold Monochloride AuCl. Aurous Chloride.\nGold Trichloride:— AuCl 3\nGold Monoxide Aurous Oxide.\nGold Trioxide— Au 2 3 Auric Oxide.\nAurous Sulphide Au 2 S.\nAuric Sulphide Au 2 S 3\nGuaiacin Guaiacic Acid.\nHydracids Hydrogen Acids.\nHydriodate Iodides.\nHydriodic Acid:— HI. Iodhydric Acid;\nAcidum Hydriodicum (L.); Hydrogen Io-\ndide.\nHydrobromic Acid:— HBr. Hydric Bro-\nmide Hydrogen Bromide.\nHydrobromide Bromide.\nHydrochloric Acid:— HC1. Muriatic Acid\nHydrogen Chloride Hydric Chloride Chlo-\nrydric Acid Spirit of Salts Marine\nAcid.","height":"4244","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0686.jp2"},"679":{"fulltext":"Hydrochloric Ether C 2 H 5 C1. Ethyl Chlo-\nride; Chloride of Ethyl; Chlorethane;\nJEther Hydrochloricus (L.).\nHydrocyanic Acid HCN or HCy. Hydric\nCyanide Cyanhydric Acid Prussic Acid.\nHydrofluoric Acid HF. Hydric Fluo-\nride Hydrogen Fluoride.\nHydrofluosilicic Acid H 2 FSiF 6 Fluo-\nride of Silicon and Hydrogen Silico-fluoric\nAcid.\nHydrogen H. Hydriogenium (L.).\nHydrogen, Antimoniureted— SbH 3 Antimo-\nneted Hydrogen Stibine Hydride of Anti-\nmony Stibamine; Hydrogenium Antimo-\nniatum (L.); Antimonious Hydride; Stiba-\nmine.\nHydrogen Arseniureted AsH 3 Arsenet-\ned Hydrogen Hydride of Arsenic Arsen-\namine Hydrogenium Arseniuratum (L.).\nHydrogen Carbureted CH 4 Carbureted\nHydrogen Marsh Gas; Fire Damp; Gas of\nthe Acetates Rock Gas.\nHydrogen Suboxide:— H 2 0. Water.\nHydrogen Peroxide:— HO or H 2 2 Hydroxyl;\nHydrogen Binoxide; Oxygenated Water;\nHudrogenii Binoxydum (L.); Deutoxide of\nHydrogen.\nHydrogen Phosphureted PH 3 Phospho-\nrus Hydride; Phosphoreted Hydrogen;\nPhosphine Phosporus Trihydride.\nHydrogen Monosulphide H 2 S. Sulphur-\neted Hydrogen Sulphphydric Acid Hy-\ndrosulphuric Acid Hydric Sulphide Dihy-\ndric Sulphide Hydrogen Sulphide.\nHydroquinone Hydrochinon Hydrochi-\nnone Hydroquinon; Hydrokinone; Hydro,\n(contraction); Quinol.\nIodate z—Iodas (L.).\nIodide Ioduret Hydriodate Iodidum\nloduretum (L.).\nIodine I. Iodatum Iodatium (L.); lode\n(Fr.); lod (Ger.).\nHydriodic Acid:— HI. Hydrogen Iodide;\nIodhydric Acid Acidum Hydriodicum (L.).\nIodic Acid HI0 3 Acidum Iodidum (L.);\nHydrogen Iodate.\nIrdineand Hydrogen:— Hydriodic Acid, HI;\nIodhyric Acid Acidum Hydriodicum (L.).\nIodoform CHI 3 Iodoformum (L.).\nIridium Ir.\nIridium, Chloride of IrCl 2 Dichloride.\nIridium, Sesquichloride Ir 2 Cl 6 Iridium\nTrichloride Iridious Chloride.\nIridium Hexachloride Ir 2 Cl 8\nIndium, Tetrachloride IrCl 4 Iridic Chlo-\nride.\nIridium Monoxide IrO. Hypoindius Ox-\nide Iridium Protoxide.\nIridium, Sesquioxide :—Ir 2 3 Iridious Oxide.\nIridium Dioxide:— Ir0 2 Iridic Oxide; Bi-\nnoxide.\nIridium Trioxide Ir0 3 Iridium Teroxide.\nIridium Sulphides Monosulphide Sesqui-\nsulphide and Disulphide.\nIron:— Fe. Ferrum (L.); Fer (Fr.) Eisen\n(Ger.).\nFerric Citrate Fe 2 (C 6 H 5 7 2 Citrate of\nIron; Ferri Citras (L.) Prussiate of Iron;\nCitrate of Sesquioxide of Iron.\nFerric and Ammonium Citrate: Ammonio-\nCitrate of Iron Ammonio-Ferric Citrate\nFerri et Ammonii Citras (L.); Citrate of Iron\nand Ammonium Ammonio-Ferric Citrate.\nFerric Chloride Fe 2 Cl 6 .12H 2 0. Perchloride\nof Iron; Permuriate of Iron Sesquichloride\nof Iron; Ferri Sesquichloridum (L.); Chlo-\nride of Iron Ferri Chloridum [(L.) IT. S.].\nFerric and Ammonium Chloride Fe 2 Cl 6 NH 4\nCl.Aq. Ammonio-Chloride of Iron Double\nChlorides of Iron and Ammonium Ferri\nAmmonium Chloridum (L.).\nFerric Ferrocyanide Fe 4 (FeCy 6 3 .18Aq. Fer-\nrocyanide of Iron Prussian Blue Sesqui-\nf errocyanide of Iron Ferri Ferrocyanidum\n(L.) Ferrocyanuret of Iron.\nFerric Hydrate Fe 2 (HO) 6 Hydrated Oxide\nof Iron; Ferrugo Hydrated Oxide of Iron;\nMoist Peroxide of Iron Hydrated Sesqui-\noxide of Iron Ferri Oxydum Hydratum (L.).\nFerric Iodide Fe 2 I 6 Ferri Peroxydum (L.)\nFerric Nitrate:— Fe 2 (N0 3 3 Nitrate of Ses-\nquioxide of Iron Protonitrate of Iron\nFerri Pernitras (L.).\nFerric Oxide Fe 2 3 Iron Peroxide Ses-\nquioxide of Iron Red Oxide of Iron Ferri\nSesquioxydum (L.) Indian Red Rouge\nJeweler s Red Crocus Brown Red Col-\ncothar [.Hematite Specular Iron Ore\nRed Ocher.]\nFerric Phosphate Fe 2 H 3 (P0 4 3 Ferric Or-\nthophosphare Ferri Phosphas, Phosphas\nFerricus (L.) Phosphate of Iron.\nFerric Pyrophosphate Fe 6 (P 2 7 2 Pyro-\nphosphate of Iron Ferri Pyrophosphas(L.).\nFerric Sulphate Fe 2 (S0 4 3 Persulphate of\nIron Sulphate of Sesquioxide of Iron;\nFerri Persulphas (L.).\nAmmonio-Ferric Sulphate:— Fe 2 (NH 4 2 S0 4 4\n23H 2 0. Sulphate of Iron and Ammonium;\nAmmonio-Ferric Alum Ferri et Ammonii\nSulphas (L.).\nFerric Sulphide Persulphide of Iron.\nFerric Bisulphide FeS 2 [Pyrites Marca-\nsite.]\nDouble Ferric and Ammonium Tartrate\nAmmonio-Tartrate of Iron Double Tar-\ntrate of Iron and Ammonium Ammonio-\nFerric Tartrate Ferri et Ammonii Tartras\n(L.) Tartrate of Iron and Ammonium\nAmmonio-Ferric Tartrate.\nFerric and Potassium Tartrate Ferric Tar-\ntrate of Potassium Ferro-Tartrate of Po-\ntassa Tartrate of Potassa and Iron Ferri\net Potassii Tartras (L.) Tartrate of Iron\nand Potassium Tartarated Iron Potassio-\nFerric Tartrate.","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0687.jp2"},"680":{"fulltext":"668\nFerroso-Ferric Hydrate Fe 3 (HO) 6 Hydra-\nted Magnetic Oxide Hydrated Ferroso-\nFerric Oxide.\nFerroso-Ferric Oxide Fe 3 4 Triferro-te-\ntroxide Magnetic Oxide of Iron [Magne-\ntic Iron Ore Loadstone]; Protosesqui Oxide\nof Iron Black Iron Oxide Ferri Oxydum\nMagneticum (L.).\nFerrous Acetate Fe(C 2 H 3 C2)2 Ferri Acetas\n(L.).\nFerrous Arseniate Fe 3 (As0 4 2 Ferri Arse-\nnica (L.) Ferrous Arseniate Arseniate of\nIron.\nFerrous Arsenite Fe(As0 2 2 Ferri Arsenis\n(L.).\nFerrous Bromide FeBr 2 Ferri Bromidum\n(L.).\nFerrous Carbonate F 2 C0 3 Protocarbon-\nate of Iron Ferri Carbonas Ferri Subcar-\nbonas (L.). [Siderite; Spathic Iron Ore.].\nFerrous Chloride FeCl 2 Protochloride of\nIron Muriate of Iron Ferri Chloridum\n(L.).\nFerrous Citrate :-Fe 3 (C 6 H 5 7 2 Protocitrate\nof Iron Citrate of Protoxide of Iron.\nFerrous Ferocyanide Ferridcyanide of\nIron.\nFerrous Hydrate Fe 2 (HO) 2\nFerrous Iodide Fel 2 Iron Iodide Pro-\ntoiodide of Iron Ferri lodidum (L.); Iodide\nof Iron.\nFerrous Nitrate Fe(N0 3 2 Protonitrate of\nIron Nitrate of Protoxide of Iron Ferri\nNitras (L.).\nFerrous Oxalate FeC 2 4 .H 2 0. Ferri Oxalas\n(L.); Oxalate of Iron.\nFerrous Oxide FeO. Protoxide of Iron\nFerri Protoxydum (L.); Monoxide of Iron.\nFerrous Phosphate Phosphate of Iron\nNeutral Phosphate of Protoxide of Iron\nFerri Phosphas (L.); Bimetallic Ferrous\nOrthophosphate.\nFerrous Sulphate FeS0 4 .7Aq. Sulphate of\nIron Protosulphate of Iron Copperas\nGreen Vitriol Shoemaker s Black Ferri\nr Sulphas (L.); Iron Vitriol Protosulphate\nof Iron Salt of Steel Salt of Colcothar.\nFerrous Sulphide FeS. Sulphide of Iron\nMonosulphide of Iron; Sulphuret of Iron\nProtosulphide of Iron Ferri Sulphur etum;\nFerri Sulphidum (L.).\nFerrous Tartrate -.—Ferri Tartras (L.).\nIron Liquor Pyrolignite of Iron Dyer s\nAcetate of Iron Black Liquor Tar Iron\nProtacetate of Iron.\nIsobutyl. See Fusel Oil.\nKlnic Acid HC 7 Hi t0 6 Cinchonic Acid.\nKreasote Creasote Creosote Kreosote\nCreasotum (L.).\nLactate :—Lactas (L.).\nLactic Acid s— C 3 H 6 3 Acid of Milk Acid-\num Lacticum (L.); Oxypropionic Acid.\nLead:— Pb. Plumbum (L.).\nLead Acetate:— Pb(C 2 H 3 2 2 .3H 2 0. Plumbic\nAcetate Sugar of Lead Plumbi Acetas\n(L.) Salt of Saturn.\nTribasic Lead Acetate:— Pb(C 2 H s 2 2 2Pb0.\nSubacetate of Lead Basic Lead Citrate\nGoulard s Acetate of Lead; Plumbi Sub-\nacetas L.).\nLead, Arseniate Pb 3 (As0 4 2 Arsenate of\nLead Plumbi Arsenias (L.).\nLead Bromide PbBr 2 Plumbi Bromidum\n(L.).\nLead Carbonate:— PbC0 3 Plumbi Carbonas\n(L. see White Lead below); [Cerussite].\nLead Chloride:— PbCl 2 Chloride of Lead;\nPlumbi Chloridum (L.).\nLead, Oxychloride (PbCl 2 .PbO.)\nLead Chromate PbCr0 4 Lemon Yellow\nLeipsic Yellow Paris Yellow.\nLead Dichromate PbCr0 4 .PbO. Chrome\nOrange Chrome Red.\nLead Cyanide PbCy 2 Plumbi Cyanidum\n(L.).\nLead Iodide Pbl 2 Lead Iodide; Plumbi\nlodidum (L.).\nLead Nitrate Pb(N0 3 2 Plumbi Nitras (L.);\nLead Suboxide Pb 2 0. Diplumbic Oxide.\nLead Oxide PbO. Lead Monoxide Lead\nProtoxide; Yellow Oxide of Lead; Plumbi\nOxydum (L); Litharge; Massicot.\nLead Sesquioxide Pb 2 3\nLead lied Oxide Pb 3 4 Red Lead [Min-\nium] Triplumbic Tetroxide Plumbate of\nOxide of Lead.\nLead Dioxide Pb0 2 Lead Peroxide Puce\nOxide of Lead.\nLead Sulphate PbS0 4 Plumbi Sulphas (L.);\n[Anglesite].\nLead Sulphide: PbS. [Galena]; Plumbi\nSulphide (L.).\nWhite Lead PbO.H 2 0,2(PbO,C0 3\nLime, See Calcium Dioxide.\nLithium Li.\nLithium Benzoate LiC 7 H 5 ,0 2 ,H 2 0.\nthium Bromide LiBr.\nLithium, Carbonate of:— Li 2 C0 3 Carbonate\nof Lithia Lithice Carbonas (L.); Lithic car-\nbonate.\nLithium Citrate:— Li 3 C 6 H 5 7 Lithice Citras-\n(L.).\nLithium Hydroxide LiHO. Lithia.\nLithium Oxide Li 2 0.\nMagnesium Mg. Magnium (L.).\nMagnesium Bromide Magnesii Bromidum\n(L.).\nMagnesium Carbonate (MgC0 3 4 .Mg(HO) 2\n5H 2 0. (Light.) Carbonate of Magnesia:\nMagnesii Carbonas; Magnesia Alba (L.).\nMagnesium Chloride: MgCl 2 Magnesii\nChloridum (L.).\nMagnesium, Citrate of Mg3(C 6 H 5 7 V Mag-\nnesia} Citras (L.).\nMagnesium, Oxide of MgO. Oxide of Mag-\nsium; Magnesia; Calcined Magnesia [Peri-\nclastite.]\nMagnesium, Phosphate of MgHP0 4 .6Aq»\nMagnesice Phosphas (L.).","height":"4244","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0688.jp2"},"681":{"fulltext":"669\nMagnesium and Ammonium, Phosphate of\nMgNH 4 .P0 4 ,6Aq. Ammonio-Phosphate of\nMagnesia; Magnesias et Ammoniee Phosphas\n(L.).\nMagnesium, Sulphate of MgS0 4 .7Aq. Mag-\nnesic Sulphate; Sal Anglicum; Cathartic\nSalt; Epsom Salt; Magnesii Sulphas (L.); Sal\nAmer; Sel de Sedlitz (Fr.); Salt of Canal;\n[Epsomite]; Bitter Purging Salt.\nMagnesium, Sulphite MgS0 3 .6H 2 0. Magne-\nsii Sulphis (L.).\nMagnesium, Tartrate of Magnesii Tartras\n(L.).\nMagnesium and Potassium, Tartrate of:—\nPotassio-Tartrate of Magnesia; Magnesice\nPotassio-Tartras (L.).\nMalic Acid H 3 C 4 H 3 05. Acidum Malicum\n(L.).\nManganese Mn. Manganesium (L.).\nManganous Acetate Mn(C 2 H 3 2 2 Acetate\nof Protoxide of Manganese; Manganii Ace-\ntas (L.).\nManganous Carbonate MnC0 3 Carbonate\nof Protoxide of Manganese; Manganesii\nCarbonas (L.).\nManganous Chloride MnCl 2 Dichloride of\nManganese; Protochloride of Manganese;\nMuriate of Manganese; Manganesii Chori-\ndum (L.); Manganous Chloride.\nManganic Chloride Mn 2 Cl 6 Trichloride of\nManganese.\nManganous Hydrate Mn(HO) 2 Hydrated\nProtoxide of Manganese.\nManganous Iodide Mnl 2 Manganesii Iodi-\ndum (L.).\nManganous Oxide MnO. Protoxide of\nManganese; Monoxide.\nManganese Dioxide:— Mn0 2 Peroxide of\nManganese; Deutoxide of Manganese\nBlack Oxide of Manganese; [Pyrolusite];\nMangani Oxidum Nigrum (L.).\nManganous Manganic Oxide Mn 3 4 Red\nOxide of Manganese; Protosesquioxide of\nManganese; Trimangano Tetroxide.\nManganese Sesquioxide Mn 2 3 Manga-\nnic Oxide.\nManganous Manganic Peroxide Mn 4 7 In-\ntermediate Oxide of Manganese.\nManganous Phosphate:— MnH.P0 4 +6Aq.\nPhosphate of Protoxide of Manganese;\nManganesii Phosphas (L.).\nManganous Sulphate MnS0 4 .4H 2 0. Sul-\nphate of Protoxide of Manganese; Manga-\nnesii Sulphas Mangani Sulphas (L.).\nManganous Tartrate MnC 4 H 4 6 Manga-\nnesii Tartras (L.).\nManganate of Barium Ba(Mn0 4\nManganate of Potassium K 2 Mn0 4\nManganate of Sodium Na(Mn0 4\nManganic Acid H 2 Mn0 4\nManganic Hydrate Mn 2 (N0) 6 Hydrated\nSesquioxide of Manganese.\nManganic Oxide:— Mn 2 3 Sesquioxide of\nManganese.\nManganic Peroxide Mn0 2 Black Oxide of\nManganese; Oxide of Manganese; Perman-\nganic Oxide; Binoxide of Manganese; Per-\noxide of Manganese; Manganesii Oxidum\nNigrum (L.).\nPermanganic Acid H 2 Mn 2 8\nPermanganate of Potassium K 2 Mn 2 8 Per-\nmanganate of Potash; Potasii Permanganas\n(L.).\nPermanganate of Silver Ag(Mn0 4\nPermanganate of Sodium Na(Mn0 4\nPermanganic Acid H 2 Mn 2 8 Hydrogen\nPermanganate.\nMarsh. Gas See Hydrogen, Carbureted.\nMercury Hg. Quicksilver Hydrargyrum\n(L.) Mercure, Vif Argent (Fr.) Queck-\nsilber (Ger.).\nMercuric Acetate Hg(C 2 H 3 2 2 Protace-\ntate of Mercury.\nMercuric Bromide HgBr 2 Protobromide\nof Mercury; Hydrargyri Bibromidum (L.).\nMercuric Chloride HgCl 2 Bichloride of\nMercury; Corrosive Sublimate; Proto-\nchloride of Mercury Perchloride of Mer-\ncury; Hydrargyri Perchloridum; Hydrargyri\nChloridum Corrosivum (L.); Corrosive Chlo-\nride of Mercury; [Horn Quicksilver.]\nMercuric Ammonium Chloride HgNH 2 Cl,\nAmmonio-Chloride of Mercury; White\nPrecipitate Cosmetic Mercury Infusible\nWhite Precipitate Mercurammonium\nChloride; Lewery s White Precipitate;\nHydrargyri Ammoniatum (L.).\nMercuric and Ammonium Chloride NH 4 C1\nHgCl 2 Chloride of Mercury and Ammonio;\nSal Alembroth Fusible White Precipitate\nMercuro-Diammonium Chloride; Hydrar-\ngyri et Ammonii Chloridum (L.); Salt of\nWisdom.\nMercuric Cyanide HgCy 2 or Hg(CN) 2 Cya-\nnide of Mercury Bicyanide of Mercury\nPrussiate of Mercury; Hydrargyri Cyani-\ndum (L.).\nMercuric Iodide Hgl 2 Red Iodide of Mer-\ncury Protiodide of Mercury Biniodide of\nMercury; Hydrargyri Iodidum (L.)..\nMercuric and Potassium Iodide HgI 2 .KI.\nIodide of Mercury and Potassium Hydrar-\ngyri et Potassi Iodidum (L.).\nMercuric and Potassium Iodo-Cyanide\nHydrargyri et Potasii Iodo-Cyanidum (L.).\nMercuric Nitrate:— Hg(N0 3 2 ,2H 2 0. Proto-\nnitrate of Mercury Pernitrate of Mer-\ncury.\nMercuric Oxide HgO. Monoxide of Mer-\ncury Protoxide of Mercury Red Pre-\ncipitate Binoxide of Mercury Oxide of\nMercury Red Oxide of Mercury Yellow\nOxide of Mercury; Yellow Mercuric Oxide;\nRed Mercuric Oxide; Deutoxide of Mer-\ncury; Peroxide of Mercury; Hydrargyri\nOxydum(L.).\nMercuric Sulphate HgS0 4 Protosulphate\nof Mercury Hydrargyri Sulphas (L.); Per-\nsulphate of Mercury Precipitated Oxide\nof Mercury.","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0689.jp2"},"682":{"fulltext":"670\nMercuric Sulphide HgS. Protosulphide of\nMercury Vermilion; Sulphide of Mercury\nRed Sulphide of Mercury; Bisulphide of\nMercury; Hydrargyri Bisulphidum (L.);\n[Cinnabar]; Red Mercuric Sulphide.\nMercurous Acetate Hg(C 2 H 3 2 Subace-\ntate of Mercury Acetate of Mercury.\nMercurous Bromide HgBr. Sub-bromide of\nMercury Hydrargyrum Bromidum (L.).\nMercurous Chloride HgCl or Hg 2 Cl 2 Mer-\ncury Chloride; Subchloride of Mercury;\nSubmuriate of Mercury Protochloride of\nMercury; Calomel; Hydrargyri Subchlori-\ndum (L.).\nMercurous Iodide Hg 2 I 2 Subiodide of\nMercury Green Iodide of Mercury Hy-\ndrargyri Iodidum (L.); Yellow Iodide of\nMercury Protiodide of Mercury.\nMercurous Nitrate (Hg 2 )(N0 3 2 ,2H 2 0. Sub-\nnitrate of Mercury; Hydrargyri Subnitras\n(L.).\nMercurous Oxide Hg 2 0. Suboxide of Mer-\ncury Gray Oxide of Mercury Dioxide of\nMercury Protoxide of Mercury Hydrar-\nggri Suboxydum (L.); Black Oxide of Mer-\ncury.\nMercurous Phosphate -.—Hydrargyri Phos-\nphas (L.).\nMercurous Sulphate: Hg 2 S0 4 Subsul-\nphate of Mercury; Sulphate of the Sub-\noxide of Mercury Protosulphate of Mer-\ncury; Hydrargyri Subsulphas (L.); Basic\nMercuric Sulphate; Yellow Subsulphate;\n[Turpeth Mineral.]\nMercurous Sulphide Hg 2 S. Subsulphate of\nMercury Hydrargyri Subsulphuretum cum\nSulphure (L.); Ethiop s Mineral (Obsolete).\nMercurous Tartrate Prototartrate of Mer-\ncury Hydrargyri Tartras (L.).\nOTicrocosmic Salt HNa(NH 4 )P0 4 +4H 2 0.\nSodium- Ammonium Phosphate.\nMolybdenum Mo.\nMolybdenum Sulphide MoS 2 [Molybden-\nite.]\nMnrexid C 8 N 6 H 8 6 or (C 8 H 4 (NH 4 )N 5 6\nH 2 0. Murexide; Purpurate of Ammonium\nMuriate.\nMuriate Chloride and Hydrochlorate.\nMuriatic Acid HC1. Hydrochloric Acid\nSpirit of Salts.\nNickel Ni. Nickelium (L.).\nNickelic Oxide Ni 2 3 Peroxide of Nickel\nSesquioxide of Nickel.\nNickelous Oxide NiO.\nNickelous Acetate Ni(C 2 H 3 2 2 Nickelii\nAcetas(L.).\nNickelous Carbonate NiC0 3 Nickelii Car-\nbonas (L.).\nNickelous Chloride NiCl 2 Nickelii Chlori-\ndum (L.) Nickel Chloride.\nNickelous Hydrate Ni(HO) 2\nNickelous Oxalate NiC 2 4 Nickelii Oxalis\n(L.).\nNickelous Oxide NiO. Protoxide of Nickel:\nMonoxide of Nickel.\nNickelous Sulphate NiS0 4 .7H 2 0. Sulphate\nof Nickel.\nNickelous and Potassium Sulphate NiS0 4\nK 2 S0 4 ,6Aq. Double Sulphate of Nickel and\nPotassium Sulphides of Nickel Subsul-\nphide, Ni 2 S Protosulphide, NiS; [Millerite;\nCapillary Pyrites] Disulphide, NiS 2\nNitrate x—Nitras (L.).\nNiter Nitrate of Potassium.\nNiter, Sweet Spirits of An Alcoholic Solu-\ntion of Nitrous Ether.\nNitric Acid:— HN0 3 Aquafortis (L.) Azo-\ntic Acid Acidum Nitricum (L.).\nNitric Acid, Anhydrous N 2 5 Nitric An-\nhydride.\nNitro benzol C 2 H 5 N0 2\nNitrogen N. Azote Nitrogenium (L.).\nNitrogen Chloride NC1 3 Nitrogen Tri-\nchloride Terchloride of Nitrogen.\nNitrogen Iodide Ni 2 Nitrogen Tri- iodide\nTeriodide of Nitrogen.\nNitrous Oxide N 2 0. Laughing Gas Nitro-\ngen Monoxide Protoxide of Nitrogen\nNitrogenii Protoxydum (L.).\nNitric Oxide NO. Nitrous Gas Deutox-\nide of Nitrogen Bin oxide of Nitrogen JVi~\ntrogenii Binoxydum (L.).\nNitrous Anhydride N 2 3 Nitrogen Triox-\nide Anhydrous Nitric Acid.\nNitric Peroxide N0 2 Peroxide of Nitro-\ngen Nitrogenous Tetroxide Hyponitric\nAnhydride Hyponitric Acid Pernjtrie\nOxide.\nNitrogen Pentoxide N 2 5 Anhydrous Ni-\ntric Acid Nitric Anhydride.\nNitro-Glycerine Trinitro-glycerine Glo-\nnoin Nitrate of Glyceryl Trinitrite Ni-\ntroleum Fulminating Oil.\nNitro-Hydrochloric Acid:— Aqua Begia\n(L.) Nitro-Muriatic Acid.\nOlefiant Gas C 2 H 4 Ethene Ethylene\nEphene Elayl Heavy Carbonated Hydro-\ngen Hydruret of Acetyl Etherin.\nOleic Acid HC, e H 34 2 Elaic Acid.\nOrpiment. See Arsenic.\nOsmium Os.\nOsmium Dichloride OSCl 2 Osmius Di-\nchloride; Osmium Protochloride; Hypo-Os-\nmious Chloride.\nOsmium Tetrachloride OSCl 4 Osmic Te-\ntrachloride; Osmium Bichloride; Osmic\nChloride.\nOsmium Dioxide OS0 3 Osmious Acid.\nOsmium Trioxide OS0 3\nOsmium Tetroxide OS0 4 Osmic Acid.\nOsmium Protoxide OsO; Hypo-osmious\nOxide.\nOsmium Sesquioxide Os 2 3\nOxalate Oxalis (L.).\nOxalic Acid H 2 C 2 4 Acidum Oxalicum\n(L.).","height":"4244","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0690.jp2"},"683":{"fulltext":"671\nOxide Oxyd; Oxydum (L.).\nOxychloride Oxichloride; Ozychloridum\n(L.).\nOxycrate i—Oxycratum (L.) The old name of\na mixture of vinegar, water and honey.\nOxygen 0. Oxygen Gas Volatile Air;\nEmpyreal Air; Dephlogisticated Air (Ob-\nsolete).\nOzone 00 2 or 3 Oxygen Peroxide.\nPalladium Pd.\nPalladium Dichloride PdCl 2 Palladious\nChloride.\nPalladium Tetrachloride PdCl 4 Palladic\nChloride.\nPalladious Iodide Pdl 2\nPalladium Monoxide PdO Palladious\nOxide.\nPalladium Dioxide Pd0 2 Palladic Oxide.\nPalladious Sulphide PdS.\nPalmitic Acid HC ]6 H 32 2\nPerchlorate i—Perchloras (L.).\nPerchloric Acid HC10 4\nPeriodic Acid:— HOI 4 Hydric Periodate;\nHydrogen Periodate.\nPetroleum Rock Oil; Liquid Bitumen;\nOil of Petre.\nPhenol :—C 6 H 6 0. PhenicAcid; Carbolic Acid;\nPhenyl Alcohol; Coal Tar Creasote; Six\nCarbon Phenol.\nPhenyl C a H 6 The radical of the phenyl\nseries.\nPhenylamine C 6 H 5 H 2 lSr or C 6 H 7 N. Ani-\nline.\nPhosgene Gas COCl 2 Carbonyl Chloride\nOxychloride of Carbon; Chlorocarbonic\nAcid.\nPhosphate i—Phosphas (L.).\nPhosphide Phosphuret.\nPhosphite i—Phosphis (L.).\nPhosphorus:— P. Phosphorus, Amorphous;\nRed Phosphorus Allotropic Phosphorus\nPhosphorus Ruber (L.).\nPhosphorus Trichloride PC1 3 Phosphorus\nTerchloride Phosphorus Chloride\nPhosphorus Pentachloride:— PC1 Phos-\nphoric Chloride and Perchloride of Phos-\nphorus Phosphoric Chloride.\nPhosphorus Oxychloride:— PC1 3 0. Phosphor-\nic Oxychloride Phosphoric Monoxychlor-\nide.\nPhosphorus Hydride PH 3 Phospbureted\nHydrogen; Hydrogen Phosphide; Phos-\nphorus Trihydride Phosphine Phosphur-\neted Hydrogen.\nHypophosphorus Acid H 3 P0 2\nPhosphorus Trioxide P 2 3 Phosphorus\nAnhydride; Anhydrous Phosphoric Acid;\nPhosphorus Oxide.\nPhosphorus Pentoxide, Acid P 2 5 An-\nhydrous Phosphoric Acid Phosphoric An-\nhydride Phosphoric Oxide.\nHypophosphorus Acid:— H 3 P0 2\nPhosphorus Acid H 3 P0 3 Hydrated Phos-\nphorus Acid.\nHypophosphorus Acid H 6 P 2 4\nPhosphoric Acid, Orthophosphoric Acid:\nH 3 P0 4 Tryhydric Phosphoric and Tri-\nbasic Phosphoric Acid.\nMetaphosphoric Acid HP0 3 Monobasic\nPhosphoric Acid Glacial Phosphoric Acid.\nPyrophosphoric:-H 4 P 2 7 Dibasic Phosphor-\nic Acid.\nPitch Black Pitch Boiled Pitch Stone\nPitch Wood Pitch.\nPitch, Burgundy White Pitch Burgundy\nPine Resin.\nPitch, Canada Hemlock Gum; Hemlock-\nPitch.\nPitch, Jew s Asphaltum.\nPitch Mineral Asphaltum Bitumen.\nPlatinum Pt. Platina White Gold Plat-\ninum (L.).\nPlatinous Chloride PtCl 2 Dichloride of\nPlatinum.\nPlatinic Chloride:— PtCl 4 Chloride of Plat-\ninum; Tetrachloride of Platinum; Perchlo-\nride of Platinum Platini Bichloridum (L.).\nPlatinic-Ammonium Chloride:— Pt(NH 4 2 .Cl 8\norPtCl 4 2NH 4 Cl. Ammonio- Chloride of\nPlatinum; Platino-Chloride of Ammonium.\nPlatinic Potassium Chloride:— PtK 2 Cl 6 or Pt\nC1 4 2KC1. Platino-Chloride of Potassium;\nPotassio-Chloride of Platinum.\nPlatinic Sodium Chloride PtNa 2 Cl 6 or PtCl 4\n2NaCl. Chloride of Platinum and Sodium;\nSodio-Chloride of Platinum; Platino-Bich-\nloride of Sodium; Platini et Sodii chloridum\n(L.).\nPlatinic Oxide Pt0 2 Binoxide of Platinum;\nDioxide of Platinum.\nPlatinous Oxide:— PtO. Oxide of Platinum;.\nMonoxide of Platinum.\nPlatinum Gas Gaz-Platine; Gillard s Gas.\nPlumbago Graphite; Black Lead.\nPlumbic Acetate Lead Acetate.\nPlumbic Acid Binoxide of Lead.\nPlumbum See Lead.\nPotash See Potassium.\nPotassium K. Kalium (L.).\nPotassium Acetate K(C 2 H 3 2 Acetate of\nPotash; Potassic Acetate; Potassii Acctas\n(L.); Diuretic Salt; Digestive Salt of Sylvius-\nPotassium Arseniate:— KH 2 As0 4 Potassium\nArsenate; Dipotassic Arsenate; Arseniate\nof Potassa; Potassium Dihydric Arseniate;\nMonopotassic Arseniate; Potassaz Bin Ar-\nsenias (L.); Arsenical Neutral Salt of Mac-\nquer.\nPotassium Meta-Arsenite KAs0 2\nPotassium Diarsenite K 4 As 2 5\nPotassium Borate K 4 B 4 8 Potassaz Boras\n(L.).\nPotassium Borotartrate PotasscB Borota:-","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0691.jp2"},"684":{"fulltext":"672\ntras (L.); Soluble Cream of Tartar; Cremor\nTartari Solubilis (L.),\nPotassium Bromide KBr. Potassii Bromi-\ndum (L.).\nPotassium Carbonate K 2 C0 3 Carbonate\nof Potassa; Potash of Commerce; Pearlash\n(Impure); Subcarbonate of Potassa; Salt of\nTartar; Potassii Carbonas (L.); Normal\nPotassium Carbonate; Dipotassic Carbon-\nate; Potassium utral Carbonate; Salt of\nWormwood; Febrifuge Salt of Sylvius.\nPotassium Bicarbonate KHC0 3 Acid Po-\ntassium Carbonate; Bicarbonate of Potassa;\nHydrogen Potassium Carbonate; Potassii\nBicarbonas (L.); Monopotassic Carbonate.\nPotassium Chlorate KC10 3 Chlorate of\nPotash; Potassii Chloras (L.); Potassic Chlo-\nrate.\nPotassium Perchlorate KC10 4\nPotassium Chloride KC1; Chloride of Po-\ntassium; Chloride of Potassa; Febrifuge\nSalt;[Sylvite].\nPotassium Chromate K 2 Cr0 4 Chromate\nof Potassa; Neutral Chromate of Potassa;\nMonochromate of Potassa; Yellow Chro-\nmate of Potassa; Salt of Chrome; Potassii\nChromas (L.); Potassic Chromate.\nPotassium Bichromate: K 2 Cr 2 7 Potas-\nsium, Bichromate of; Potassium Dichro-\nmate; Potassic Acid Chromate; Bed Chro-\nmate of Potash; Potassii Bichromas (L.);\nPotassic Dichrome.\nPotassium Citrate K 3 C 6 H 5 7 Potassii\nCitratis (L.).\nPotassium Cyanate:— KCyO. or KCNO.\nPotassium Cyanide KCy or KCyN. Cyanide\nof Potash; Cyanuret of Potassium; Potassii\nCyanidum (L.); Potassic Cyanide.\nPotassium Ethylate C 2 H 5 KO.\nPotassium Ferricyanide K 3 FeCy a Ferrid-\ncyanide of Potassium; Red Prussiate of\nPotash; Potassium Ferric yanuret; Potassii\nFerricyanidum (L.); Prussias Rubrum.\nPotassium Ferrocyanide K 4 FeCy« or\nK 4 FeC 6 N 6 orFe(CN) 6 Prussiate of Potash;\nYellow Prussiate of Potash; Ferrocyanuret\nof Potassium; Potassii Ferrocyanidum (L.);\nPotassic Ferro-Cyanide; Ferroprussiate of\nPotassa.\nPotassium Hydrate:— KOH. Potassium Hy-\ndroxide Potassa; Potassa Hydrate; Hydrate\nof Potassa; Caustic Potash; Caustic Potas-\nsa; Hydrated Oxide of Potassa; Potassa\nCaustica (L.); Potassic Hydrate.\nPotassium Iodate KI0 3 Potassce Iodas (L).\nPotassium Iodide KI. Potassii Iodidum (L.);\nPotassic Iodide.\nPotassium Nitrate:— KN0 3 [Niter]; Salt-\npetre; Saltpeter; Salt Peter; Salt Petre; Ni-\ntrate of Potash; Potassii Nitras Kali Ni-\ntratum; Sel Nitri (L.).\nPotassium Nitrite KN0 2 Nitrite of Potas-\nsa, Potassce Nitras (L.).\nPotassium Oxalate:— K 2 C 2 4 Neutral Ox-\nalate of Potassa; Potassce Oxalas (L.).\nPotassium Hydrogen Oxalate: HKC 2 4\nPotassium Binoxalate; Salt of Sorrel; Es-\nsential Salt of Lemons; Potassce Binoxalas\n(L.).\nPotassium Acid Oxalate :—KH 3 (C 2 4 Po-\ntassium Trihydrogen Oxalate; Potassium\nQuadroxalate.\nPotassium Oxide K 2 0. Potassium Monox-\nide; Anhydrous Potash; Anhydrous Po-\ntassa.\nPotassium Perchlorate K 2 C10 4 Potassm\nPerchloras (L.).\nPotassium Permanganate:— K 2 Mn 2 8 Per-\nmanganate of Potash; Potassii Permanganas\n(L.).\nPotassium Manganate K 2 Mn0 4\nPotassium Phosphate K 3 P0 4\nNormal Orthophosphate K 3 P0 4\nDipotassic Salt K 2 HP0 4\nMonopotassic Salt KH 2 P0 4\nPotassium Prussiate Red Prussiate (see\nPotassium Ferricyanide); Yellow Prussiate\n(see Potassium Ferrocyanide).\nPotassium Silicate -.—Potassce Silicas (L.).\nPotassium Sulphate :-K 2 S0 4 Potassii Sulphas\n(L.); Potassic Sulphate; Sulphate of Potassa;\nNormal Potassium Sulphate; Dipotassic\nSulphate; Sal Polychrest; Vitriolated Tar-\ntar.\nPotassium Bisulphate KHS0 4 Potassium-\nHydrogen Sulphate Acid Potassium Sul-\nphate; Potassce Bisulphas (L.); Monopotas-\nsic Sulphate; Bisulphate of Potash.\nPotassium Disulphate K 2 S 2 7 Potassium\nPyrosulphate.\nPotassium Sulphide Sulphuret of Potassi-\num; Liver of Sulphur; Potassii Sulphuretum\n(L.); Hepar of Sulphur; Hepar Sulphurous\n(L.); Several Sulphides, Mono-, Bi-, Tri-,\nTetra- and Penta-Sulphides have the sym-\nbols K 2 S; K 2 S 2 K 2 S 3 K 2 S 4 K 2 S 5 Hydro-\nsulphide or Sulphydrate, KHS.\nPotassium Sulphocyanide KCNS or KCyS.\nSulphocyanuret of Potassium; Potassii Sul-\nphocyanidum (L.); Potassic Sulpho-Cyanide;\nPotassium Sulpho-Cyanate.\nPotassium Tartrate K 2 C 4 H 4 6 Tartrate\nof Potassa; Neutral Tartrate of Potassium;\nNeutral Tartrate; Soluble Tartrate; Potassii\nTartras (L.); Vegetable Salt.\nPotassium Bitartrate KHC 4 H 4 6 Argol\nor Argal (Impure); Cream of Tartar; Su-\npertartrate of Potassium; Acid Tartrate of\nPotassa; Potassa Bitartras (L.); Crystals of\nTartar.\nPotassium and Sodium Tartrate. See Sodium\nand Potassium Tartrate.\nPrecipitate, Red:— Mercuric Sulphate.\nPrussian Blue —Ferrocyanide of Iron;\nPrussiate of Iron; Cyanuret of Iron; Paris\nBlue; Berlin Blue.\nPurple of Cassius:— Purple Precipitate of\nCassius; Gold Prepared with Tin; Aurum\nStanno Paratum (L.).\nPurpurate of Ammonium; Murexide.\nPyrogallic Acid:— HC 6 H 5 3 Pyro; Acidurr.\nPyrogallicum (L.); Pyrogallol Galline.","height":"4244","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0692.jp2"},"685":{"fulltext":"673\nI\nPyropliosplioric Acid See Phos-\nphorus, (Dibasic Phosphoric Acid.)\nPyrotartaric Acid H 2 C 5 H 8 4 Methyl-\nsuccinic Acid.\nQuartz SiO a Silicon Dioxide.\nQuinidi tie C 2 oH 2 o0 2 N 2 ,2HaO. Quinidia\nConchimine: Cinchinine.\nQuinine C 10 H 12 ON. Quina; Quinia.\nQuinine Sulphate:— (C 20 H 24 N 2 O 2 2 .2H 2 SO 4\n7Aq. Quinine Disulphate Quinine.\nSalicin C i3 H 18 7\nSalicyl C 7 H 4 0.\nSalicylic Acid H 2 C 7 H 4 3 Ortho-Oxyben-\nzoic Acid.\nSalicylous Acid C 7 H 6 2 Hydrosilicic\nAcid Salicylol; Hydride of Salicyl; Meadow\nSweet, Artificial Oil of.\nSaltpeter Potassium Nitrate which see.\nSalts See salts in the body of the Encyclo-\npedia; salts of the different chemicals are\nalso given with the other synonyms under\nthe name of the metal.\nSelenium Se.\nSelenic Acid H 2 Se0 4 Acidum Selenicum\n(L.).\nSelenious Acid H 2 Se0 3\nSelenium Monochloride Se a Cl 2\nSelenium Tetrachloride SeCl 4\nSeleniureted Hydrogen H 2 Se. Hydrogen\nSelenide; Selenieted Hydrogen; fcelenhy-\ndric Acid.\nSilicon:— Si. Silicium (L.).\nSilica:— Si0 2 Silicon Dioxide Silicic Anhy-\ndride Silicic Acid Silex [Quartz Chal-\ncedony Agate Flint Opal, etc.]\nSilicon Trichloride Si 2 Cl 6\nSilicic Chloride SiCl 4 Silicic Tetrachloride.\nSilicon Hydrotrichloride SiHCl 3 Silicic\nChloroform.\nSilicic Fluoride SiF 4 Silicic Tetrafluoride_\nHydrofluosilicic Acid:— Si 4 2HF. Siliconuoric\nAcid.\nSilicon Disulphide SiS 2\nSilicon Monosulphide SiS.\nSilicon Oxysulphide SiSO.\nSilver Ag. Argentum (L.).\nSilver Acetate Ag(C 2 H 3 2\nSilver Ammonio-Chloride -Argento-Chloriae\nof Ammonio.\nSilver Benzoate AgC 7 H 5 2\nSilver Bromide AgBr. Argentic Bromide.\nSilver Carbonate Ag 2 C0 3 Argenti Carbonas\n(L.).\nSilver Chloride:— AgCl. Argentic Chloride;\nMonochloride of Silver.\nArgentous Chloride Ag 4 Cl 2 Subchloride\nof Silver [Cerargyrite Horn Silver.]\nSilver Cyanide AgCN. Argentic Cyanide;\nHydrocyanate of Silver.\nSilver Fluoride AgF or Ag 2 F 2\nSilver Iodide Agl. Argentic Iodide; Ar-\ngenti Iodidum (L.).\nSilver Nitrate AgN0 3 Argenti Nitras (L.);\nLunar Caustic Argentic Nitrate.\nSilver Dichloridc Ag 2 2 Argenti Suboxy-\ndum (L.).\nSilver Oxide:— Ag 2 0. Protoxide of Silver;\nArgenti Oxydum (L.) Silver Monoxide Ar-\ngentic Oxide.\nArgentous Oxide Ag 4 0.\nSilver Sulphate Ag 2 S0 4 Argenti Sulphas\n(L.).\nSilver Sulphide Ag s S. Sulphuret of Silver\nArgenti Sulphuretum (L.); [Argentite; Vit-\nreous Silver Silver Glance.]\nSilver Hyposulphide Ag 2 S 2 3 Argenti Hy-\nposulphis (L.).\nSodium Na. Natrium (L.).\nSodium Acetate:— Na(C 2 H 3 2 ).3H 2 0. Acetate\nof Soda Sodce Acetas (L.).\nSodium Benzoate :—Soda3 Benzoas (L.).\nSodium Borate Na 2 O(B 2 O 3 2 ,10H 2 O. Borax;\nBorate of Sodium Sodii Boras (L.) Pyro-\nborate Sodium Biborate [Tincal.]\nSodium Bromide Sodii Bromidum (L.).\nSodium Carbonate :-Na( 2 CO 3 .10H 2 O. Carbon-\nate of Soda Subcarbonate of Soda Mono-\ncarbonate of Soda Sodii Carbonas (L.) Salt\nof Barilla; Sodic Carbonate; Sal Soda;\nWashing Soda Soda Crystals Salt of Soda;\n[Natron]; Sal Sodce (L\nSodium Sesquicarbonate Na 4 H 2 (C0 3 3 ,2H 2\nO. Dihydro-tetra Sodic Carbonate.\nSodium Bicarbonate NaH CO 3 Sodce Bi-\ncarbon s (L.) Hydrogen and Sodium Bicar-\nbonate Monosodic Carbonate Hydrosodic\nCarbonate Sodium Hydrocarbonate.\nSodium Chlorate:— NaC10 3\nSodium Chloride NaCl. Sodii Chloridum;\nSodce Murias (L.) Common Salt Marine\nSalt [Halite] Muriate of Soda.\nSodium Hydroxide:— XaOH. Hydrate of\nSoda Caustic Soda Socte Hydras (L.).\nSodium Hypochlorite Chlorinated Soda;\nChloride of Soda; Sodce Clilorinata (L.).\nSodium Hyposulphite Na 2 S 2 3 .5 H 2 o»\nHypo; Sodce Hyposulphas (Lj; Sodium\nThiosulphate.\nSodium Iodide Nal. Sodii Iodidum (L.).\nSodium Nitrate NaN0 3 Chilian Saltpeter\nPeruvian Saltpeter Cubic Niter Sodce Ni-\ntras (L.) [Nitratine].\nSodium Nitrite -.—Sodce Nitris (L.).\nSodium Oxide:— Na 2 0. Anhydrous Soda;\nSodium Monoxide.\nSodium Phosphate:— Na 2 HP0 4 .12Aq. Tri-\nbasic Phosphate of Soda Khombic Phos-\nphate of Soda Sodce Phosplias (L.) Perlate\nSalt; Tasteless Salt; Hydrodisodic Phos-\nphate Disodic Orthophosphate Phosphate\nof Soda.\nSodium-Ammonium Phosphate NaNt, 4 HP\n4 .4H 2 0. Microcosmic Salt; Sodii et Am~\nmonii Phosplias (L.).\nSodium Pyrophosphate :-Na 4 P 2 7 -flOH 20 Sodce\nPyrophosphas (L.). Normal Sodium Pyro-\nphosphate.","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0693.jp2"},"686":{"fulltext":"674\nSodium Silicate Na 2 Si 4 0,. Soluble Glass\nWater Glass Quadrisilicate; Tetra-Silicate.\nSodium Sulphate:— Na 2 SO 4 .10Aq. Glauber s\nSalt; Spdce Sulphas (L.) Wonderful Salt\nSal Cathariticus Glauberi; Sodii Sulphas\n(L.); [Thenardite Mirabilite; Glauberite.].\nSodium Acid Sulphate:— Na 2 S0 4 ,H 2 S0 4 ,3H 2\nO. Bisulphate of Soda.\nSodium Sulphite:— Na 2 S 3 Sulphite of Sodi-\num; Sodic Sulphite; Sodii Sulphls (L.).\nSodium and Potassium Tartrate:— KNaC 4 H 4\n6 .4Aq. Tartrate of Potassium and Soda\nRochelle Salts; Tartarized Soda; Sodas Tar-\ntaratum Sodce Potasses Tartras (L.) Salt\nof Seignette Tartarated Soda.\nSpirit:— Amylic. See Fusel Oil.\nSpirit of Hydrochloric Ether Spirit of Mu-\nriatic Ether; JEther Hydrochloricus Alcohol-\nicus (L.).\nSpirit of Nitric Ether:— Sweet Spirit of Niter;\nSpirit of Nitrous Ether Nitrous Ethereal\nSpirit; Niter Drops; Spiritus JEtheris Ni-\ntrici (L.).\nSpirit Pyroacetic: Acetone; Spiritus\nPyroaceticus (L.).\nSpirit Pyroxylic P yroligneous Spirit\nWood Spirit; Wood Naphtha; Hydra ted\nOxide of Methyl Medicinal Naphtha\nSpiritus Pyroxylicus (L.).\nSpirit, Rectified -See Alcohol.\nSirits of Wine See Alcohol.\nStarcli:— C a H 10 O5. Amylaceous Fecula; Amy-\nlum (L.); Amidin.\nStearic Acid HC 18 H 36 02. Stearin.\nStrontium Sr.\nStrontium Carbonate :—SrC0 3 [Strontanite. J\nStrontium Chloride SrCl 2\nStrontium Nitrate Sr(N0 3 2\nStrontium Oxide SrO. Strontia; Protoxide\nof Strontium.\nStrontium Dioxide SrOa.\nStrontium Sulphate SrSO*. [Celestite.]\nSulphate Sulphas (L.).\nSulphide Sulphuret.\nSulphovinic Acid C 2 H 6 HS0 4 Sulph-\nethylic Acid; Acidum Sulphovinicum (L.).\nSulphur :—S. Brimstone.\nAmorphous Sulphur Brown Sulphur Sul-\nphur Amorphum (L.).\nLiver of Sulphur Mixture of Potassium\nPolysulphides with Potassium Sulphate.\nPrecipitated Sulphur Hydrate of Sulphur\nMilk of Sulphur Sulphuris Hydras Lac\nSulphuris (L.).\nRoll Sulphur Stick Sulphur; Cane Sulphur;\nSulphur in Bacculis (L.).\nSublimed Sulphur Flowers of Sulphur\nFlores Sulphuris (L.).\nSulphur Vivum Black Sulphur Crude Sul-\nphur Horse Brimstone Sulphur Nigrum\n(L.).\nSulphur Mono-Chloride S 2 C1 2\nSulphur Iodide;— S 2 I 2 Biniodide of Sulphur;\nSulphuris Iodidum (L.).\nSulphuret:— Sulphide Sulphuretum and Sul-\nphidum (L.).\nSulphuretted Hydrogen:— H 2 S. Hydrogen\nSulphide; Dihydric Sulphide; Hydric Sul-\nphide; Hydrosulphuric Acid; Sulphydric\nAcid; Hydrogen Monosulphide.\nSulphur Mono-, Di- and Tri-chlorides SCI;\nSC1 2 SC1 4\nSulphuric Acid H 2 S0 4 Oil of Vitriol; Vit-\nriolic Acid; Acidum Sidphuricum (L.).\nSulphuric Acid, Anhydrous S0 3 Sulphuric\nAnhydride; Dry Sulphuric Acid.\nSulphuric Acid, Nordhausen H 2 S 2 7 Fum-\ning Sulphuric Acid Disulphuric Acid;\nAcidum Sidphuricum Furnas (L.); Pyrosul-\nphuric Acid.\nHydrosulphurous Acid H 2 S0 2\nThiosulphuric Acid H 2 S 2 3 Hyposulphur-\nous Acid.\nDithionic Acid: H 2 S 2 6 Hyposulphuric\nAcid.\nTrithionic Acid H 2 S 3 6\nTetrathionic Acid H 2 S 4 6\nPentathionic Acid H 2 S 5 0e-\nSulphurous Acid:— H 2 S0 3 Sulphurous An-\nhydride Acidum Sulphurosum (L.).\nSulphur Dioxide S0 2 Sulphurous Oxide.\nSulphur Trioxide:— S0 3 Sulphuric Oxide;\nSulphuric Anhydride; Anhydrous Sulphuric\nAcid.\nSulphurous Chloride SOCl 2 Chloride of\nThionyl.\nSulphuric Chloride S0 2 C1 2 Sulphuryl Chlo-\nride; Cnlorosulphuric Acid.\nSulphuric Ether. See Ether.\nTartar Argal; Orgal; Tartaratum Tartrus\n(L.).\nTartar Ammoniated Ammonio-Tartrate of\nPotassa; Soluble Tartar (ammoniated); Tar-\ntras AmmovAatus (L.).\nTartar Roraxated Soluble Cream of Tartar;\nBoro-Tartrate of Potassium and Sodium;\nTartaratum Boraxatum (L.).\nTartar Chalybeated Potassio-Tartrate of\nIron.\nTartar Cream Tartrate of Potassium.\nTartar Emetic: Potassio-Tartrate of Anti-\nmony. See Antimony.\nTartar Oil Deliquesced Carbonate of Po-\ntassa.\nTartar Salt Carbonate of Potassium.\nTartar Soluble Neutral Tartrate of Potas-\nsium.\nTartar Spirit Pyrotartaric Acid.\nTartaric Acid H 2 C 4 H 4 6 or C 4 H 6 6\nAcid of Tartar; Essential Salt of Tartar;\nAcidum Tartaratum (L.) Dextrotartaric\nAcid.\nTellurium Te. Tellurium compounds are\nnumerous but are not of much importance.\nHydrogen Telluride H 2 Te. Hydrotelluric\nAcid; Tellurated Hydrogen.\nTellurous Acid:— H 2 Te0 3\nTelluric Acid H 2 Te0 4","height":"4244","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0694.jp2"},"687":{"fulltext":"675\nTheine C e H 10 N 4 O 2 Theine; Caffeine.\nTliymol C 10 Hi 3 .OH. Thymic Acid.\nThymic Acid C ]0 H 14 O.\nTin Sn. Stannum (L.).\nStannous Chloride SnCl 2 Protochloride of\nTin; Dichloride of Tin.\nStannous Chloride Hydrated SnCl 2 ,2H 2 0.\nTin Salt.\nStannous Hydrate Sn(HO) 2 Hydrated Ox-\nide of Tin.\nStannous Iodide Snl 2 Protiode of Tin.\nStannous Oxide SnO. Protoxide of Tin;\nMonoxide of Tin.\nSesquioxide of Tin Sn 2 3\nStannous Sulphide SnS.. Protosulphide of\nTin.\nStannic Chloride :—SnCl 4 Bichloride of Tin;\nTetrachloride of Tin; Perchloride of Tin;\nPermuriate of Tin; Stanni Bichloridum\n(L.); Fuming- Liquor of Libavius (with\nwater, forms Butter of Tin).\nStannic Hydrate Sn(HO) 4 Hydrated Per-\noxide of Tin; Stannic Acid.\nStannic Iodide:— Snl 4\nStannic Oxide SN0 2 Binoxide of Tin; Per-\noxide of Tin Dioxide of Tin [Cassiterite].\nStannic Sulphide SNS 2 Bisulphide of Tin;\nBronze Powder; Mosaic Gold; Aurum Musi-\nrum Aurum Mosiacum (L.).\nTungsten:— W. Tungstenum; Woframium\n(L.).\nTungsten Trioxide W0 3\ndride; Tungstic Oxide.\nTungstic Acid H 2 W0 4\nTungstic Chloride WC1«.\nTungstic Anhy-\nHexachloride.\nTungsten Bisulphide WS 2 Tungstous Sul-\nphide; Disulphide.\nTungsten Trisulphide WS 3 Tungstic Sul-\nphide.\nVanadium V.\nVanadic Binoxide:— V 2 2 Vanadic Anhy-\ndride; Tetroxide of Vanadium; Acidum\nVanadicum (L.).\nVanadic Oxychloride V0C1 3 Vanadic\nOxytrichloride.\nVermilion Red Sulphide of Mercury; Red\nSulphuret of Mercury; Factitious Cinna-\nbar.\nVinegar :—Acetum (L.).\nWater:— H 2 0. Protoxide of Hydrogen;\nOxide of Hydrogen; Aqua (L.); Eau (Fr.);\nWasser (Ger.).\nZinc Zn. Zink; Spelter; Zincum (L.).\nZinc Acetate:— Zn(C 2 H 3 2 2 Zinci Acetas\n(L.).\nZinc Bromide:— ZnBr 2 Zinci Bromidum (L.).\nZinc Carbonate:— ZnC0 3 Zinci Carbonas\n(L); [Smithsonite].\nZinc Chloride:— ZnCl 2 Muriate of Zinc;\nButter of Zinc Zinci Chloridum (LJ.\nZinc Cyanide: ZnCy 6 Zinci Cyanidum (L.);\nCyanuret of Zinc.\nZinc Oxide:— ZnO. Peroxide of Zinc Zinc\nWhite; [Zincite; Red Zinc Ore].\nZinc Sulphate:— ZnS0 4 .7H 2 0. White Copper-\nas; White Vitriol Zinci Sulphas (L.) Sal.\nof Vitriol [Goslarite].\nZinc Sulphide ZnS. [Blende Sphalerite;\nBlackjack],","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0695.jp2"},"688":{"fulltext":"","height":"4244","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0696.jp2"},"689":{"fulltext":"APPENDIX.\nPART IV.\nAlloys.— Magnolia Metal for Anti-Friction\nBearings.— The metal of the well-known patent\nMagnolia anti-friction bearings has been found\nby analysis to have the following composition\nLead, 80 lb. antimony, 15 lb. tin, 5 lb. bis-\nmuth, 4 oz. graphite, 8 oz. aluminum, 4 oz.\nManganine. Manganine is the name of a\nnew alloy, consisting of copper, nickel, and\nmanganese, which has been brought on the\nmarket, says Iron, by the German firm Abler,\nHaas Angerstein, as a material of great\nresisting power. The specific resistance of\nmanganine is g;ven as 42 microhm centi-\nmeters, that is, higher than that of nickeline,\nwhich has hitherto passed as the best resisting\nmetal. Another advantage of manganine is\nits behavior under variations of heat, the re-\nsistance, it is claimed, being affected only in a\nminute degree by high temperatures. It is\ntherefore adapted for the manufacture of\nmeasuring instruments and electrical appara-\ntus in general, which are required to vary their\nresistance as little as possible under different\ndegrees of heat. A further interesting fact is\nthat, while other metals increase their resist-\nance by the raising of the temperature, that of\nmanganine is diminished.\nPlatinum Silver.— Platinum silver is an alloy\nconsisting of platinum 1 part, silver 2 parts.\nImproved Alloys for Tools.— These are alloys\nfor the manufacture of boring and cutting\ntools having a hardness equal to that of tem-\npered steel, with the further advantage of not\nlosing their hardness when heated by friction.\nThe following- alloy is suitable for the manu-\nfacture of boring tools, such as driUs, milling\ncutters, reamers, and the like\nPig iron, 17*25 ferro-manganese, 3 00\nchromium, 1*50 tungsten, 5*25 aluminum,\nT25 fo nickel, 0*50 copper, 0*75 bar iron,\n70-50*; total, 100*00*.\nThe following alloy is suitable for the manu-\nfacture of nail-cutting blades, cutting blades\nfor machines, cutting-out tools, and the like\nPig iron, 17*25 ferro-manganese, 4*50\nchromium, 2*00 tungsten, 7*50 aluminum,\n2*00^; nickel, 075 copper, 1*00 bar iron\n(Swedish) 65*00 total, 100*00\nIn making these alloys the pig iron, ferro-\nmanganese, chromium, and tungsten are melt-\ned together in graphite crucibles under stick\ncharcoal and calcined borax, the tungsten and\npig iron being preferably melted first. The\nalloy so produced is then remelted in clay cru-\ncibles together with the bar iron; and the\nnickel, copper, and aluminum are then added.\nThe metal is this time covered with stick char-\ncoal only. The above alloys are cast in sand\nmoulds.\nAmadou.— The French name for spunk or\ntinder. Agaric is another name. It is obtain-\ned from a kind of mushroom. Agaric is pre-\npared to inflame by steeping in a solution of\npotassium nitrate, and afterward drying. It\nis very readily inflammable.\nBaldness. See Hair, the.\nBatteries.— Batteries, Secondary, Prepara-\ntion for Forming. Litharge is placed in a very\nconcentrated solution of caustic potash and\nboiled. A lead plate boiled in this solution will\nacquire a coating of spongy lead half inch\nthick, which can be pressed down so as to oc-\ncupy T Jtf part of an inch.\nBeverages. Heading or Foam for\nBeverages. If it is thought desirable to give\nan extra foam or head this formula wilL\ndo: Take soap bark in coarse powder, 2 oz.;\nanimal charcoal, 1 oz. Macerate two days\nin alcohol, 2 oz.; glycerine, 2 oz.; distilled\nwater, 4 oz. Percolate to obtain 8 oz. of finished\nproduct. Quantity to be used 2 drm. to the gal-\nlon of concentrated ginger ale.\nBlacking.— Leather and Harness.— Prepare\nferrous resinate in the following manner: Boil\ntogether for three hours, or until a clear solu-\ntion is effected, 2 parts crystallized sodium car-\nbonate, 5 parts colophony (rosin crushed), ami\nwater a sufficient quantity, adding the colo-\nphony in small portions at a time to facilitate\ncomplete saponification. This solution, while\nstill hot, is precipitated by a 1*5 ferrous sul-\nphate solution, and after allowing to settle, the\nresulting ferrous resinate is well washed with\nhot water and placed in a straining cloth.\nAfter two or three days this mass is spread in\nthin layers on porcelain plates and allowed to\ndry. To convert into a paste, rub up 5 or 6 parts\nof the dry powder with 95 parts of petrolatum,\nimproving the color by the addition of some\nlamp black or fat soluble aniline blue, and\nperfume with nitrobenzol. The foregoing pro-\nduces a most durable and satisfactory black-\ning, applicable equally well to shoes, harness or\nother leather goods to preserve a fine black\ncolor. Regular shoe polish may be applied\ndirectly over the same without impairing the\nshine.\nHarness Polish.— Laundry soap, shavings, 300\nparts; starch, 150 parts; nutgall, bruised, 150\nparts iron sulphate, 150 parts water, 10,000\nparts. Boil together for one hour, filter and\nadd Animal charcoal, 500 parts extract log-\nwood, 100 parts; brown molasses, 1,000 parts;\ncarbolic acid, 125 parts.\nMetals.— To Color Iron and Steel a Dead\nBlack. A new blacking fluid has been invented\nby M. Mazure. According to Cosmos, this\nliquid has the following formula Bismuth\nchloride, 1 part; mercury bichloride, 2 parts;\ncopper chloride, 1 part hydrochloric acid, 6\nparts; alcohol, 5 parts; water, 50 parts. Mix.\nTo use this fluid successfully, the article to be\nblacked or bronzed must be clean and free\nfrom grease. It may be applied with a brush or\nswab, or, better still, the object may be dipped\ninto it. Let the liquid dry on the metal, and\nthen place the latter into boiling water, and\nmaintain the temperature for half an hour. If\nthe color is then not as dark as desired, repeat\nthe operation. The editor of the National\nDruggist finds it to work beautifully. After\ngetting the desired color, the latter is fixed and","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0697.jp2"},"690":{"fulltext":"Bleaching.\n678\nBronzing.\nmuch improved by placing for a few minutes\nin a bat h of boiling- oil, or by coating the sur-\nface with oil and heating the object until the\noil is driven off.\nNickel, to Blacken. Nickel, as well as copper,\ncan be blackened by brushing with an aque-\nous solution of platinic chloride.\nBleaching.— Photographs.— Prints on plain\npaper may be bleached by flowing with an\nalcoholic solution of mercuric chloride. This\nsalt is sparingly soluble in water and alcohol,\nand is intensely poisonous. This method is\nlargely used in making newspaper sketches,\nas designs can be drawn on the paper, and the\noriginal photograph bleached out. Use only\nWinsor Newton s or Higgins 1 waterproof\nIndia ink.\nSponges, to Bleach.— Soak in a mixture of\nhydrochloric acid 1 fl. part to 8 fl. parts of\nwater; rinse, immerse in a solution of potas-\nsium permanganate, 1 part in 160 fl. parts,\nwring immerse in a solution of sodium hypo-\nsulphite, 16 parts water, 160 fl. parts hydro-\nchloric acid, 1 part. Wash well.\nBluing on Steel, to Remove.— For re-\nmoving the blue from steel, so as to leave it as\nclean as before coloring, try acetic acid, or\nsolution of tin chloride (stannous chloride).\nBones for Manure, Preparation of.\nIllienkof, a Russian chemist, gives the fol-\nlowing process, which, it is said, has received\nthe approbation of Liebig The author mixes\n4,000 kilos, of ground bones with 4,000 kilos, of\nwood ashes containing 10 per cent, of carbo-\nnate of potash, and adds 600 kilos, of quick-\nlime. This mixture he places in a tank or\nfosse, with water sufficient to make the whole\nmoist. In a short time the bony matter is\ncompletely disaggregated by the caustic pot-\nash, and the pasty mass formed is then taken\nfrom the tank, dried, mixed with an equal\nweight of mould, and is then ready to be dis-\ntributed.\nBrass.— Coloring Brass a Deep Blue.— A cold\nmethod of coloring brass a deep blue is as fol-\nlows 100 grms. of carbonate of copper and 750\ngrms. of ammonia are introduced in a decan-\nter, well corked, and shaken until dissolution\nis effected. There are then added 150 c. c. of\ndistilled water. The mixture is shaken once\nmore, shortly after which it is ready for use.\nThe liquid should be kept in a cool place, in\nfirmly closed bottles or in glass vessels, with a\nlarge opening, the edges of which have been\nsubjected to emery friction and covered by\nplates of greased glass. When the liquid has\nlost its strength, it can be recuperated by the\naddition of a little ammonia. The articles to\nbe colored should be perfectly clean especial\ncare should be taken to clear them of all trace\nof grease. They are then suspended by a brass\nwire in the liquid, in which they are entirely\nimmersed, and a to-and-fro movement is com-\nmunicated to them. After the expiration of\ntwo or three minutes, they are taken from the\nbath, washed in clean water, and diled in saw-\ndust. It is necessary that the operation be\nconducted with as little exposure to the air as\npossible. Handsome shades are only obtained\nin the case of brass and tombac— that is to say,\ncopper and zinc alloys. The bath cannot be\nutilized for coloring bronze (copper- tin), argen-\ntine, and other metallic alloys.\nCutting Brass Chemically. -The Engineer gives\nthe following as a means of cutting brass sheet\nchemically Make a strong solution of bichlo-\nride of mercury in alcohol, and with a quill\npen draw a line across the brass at the place at\nwhich it has to be cut. Let it dry on, and then\nwith the same pen draw over the line with\nnitric acid. The brass may then be broken\nacross like glass cut with a diamond. The phi-\nlosophy of this is that the salt of mercury is\ndecomposed, the free mercury amalgamating\nthe zinc, and the nitric acid attacking the cop-\nper of the brass.\nTin Wash for Brass.— To put a white coating\non brass with block tin, commonly known as\nwhite washing, 1 boil together 6 lb. of potas-\nsium bitartrate, 4 gallons of water, and 8 lb. of\ngrain tin, or tin shavings, for half an hour, in a\nporcelain-lined vessel put the clean brass ware\nin the boiling liquid for a few minutes, or until\nproperly coated. A boiling solution of potas\nsium or sodium stannate, mixed with tin turn-\nings, may be employed instead of the above.\nSilvering Brass.— Brass and copper are the\nonly metals that can be silvered without a\nbattery. The process of silvering brass is thus\ndescribed: In 8 oz. of water dissolve 2 oz. of\npotassium cyanide, and in the same quantity\nof water 1 dr. of silver nitrate. Into the ves-\nsel containing the silver throw about half a\nspoonful of common salt stir this well with a\nglass rod until the silver is precipitated. Mix\na little salt and water, and add a few drops to\nthe solution after it has had time to settle. If\nany cloudiness follow, more salt must be ad-\nded. When the addition of salt water has\nceased to have any effect, carefully pour off\nthe water and preserve the deposit. Wash\nthis deposit two or three times in boiling water\nand then carefully dry. Place this powder in\na vessel, and pour on it about a pint of water,\nand add the cyanide solution, about oz. at a\ntime, until the precipitate is dissolved, then\nadd enough water to make about a quart.\nWhile adding the cyanide solution, stir well.\nIf, when dipping the article into this solution,\nthe silver deposits too quickly, more water\nmust be added if it coats very slowly, the so-\nlution must be strengthened with more preci-\npitate. This must be also done whenever the\nsolution becomes weak. The solution when in\nuse should be kept at a temperature of from\n60° to 70° of heat. After polishing and bur-\nnishing, the article silvered should be as bril-\nliant and durable as can be wished.\nBrassoline. See Lacquers.\nBreath, Fetid.— This may arise from de-\ncaying teeth, or it may come from some sto-\nmach difficulty, as impaired digestion; lung\ntroubles may cause it. In any event, thorough\ncleansing of the teeth and a camphorated den-\ntifrice is by many thought more useful than\nother varieties. The following formulas are\ncommended by various authors as to the seve-\nral sources of the trouble, the active materials\nfor disinfecting being one of the following ar-\nticles Carbolic acid, chlorine water, potassium\npermanganate, thymol, salicylic acid, camphor,\nborax.\n1. Camphor water water, equal parts use\nas a mouth wash.\n2. Thymol, 10 gr. alcohol, 1 oz. borax, 30\ngr. water, 19 oz.\n3. Potassium permanganate, 8 gr. water, 8\noz.\n4. Chlorine water, 1 oz. glycerin, 2 fl. oz.\nwater, 14 oz.\n5. Salicylic acid, 120 gr. glycerin, 2 fl. oz.\nwater, 6 oz.\n6. Borax, 240 gr. water, 1 pt.\n7. Chlorinated lime, 120 gr. sodium carbo-\nnate, 160 gr. water, 6 oz. alcohol, 2 oz. rose\nwater, 12 oz. Dissolve the sodium carbonate in\n2 oz. of the water, rub the chlorinated lime to a\npaste with water, adding in all 4 oz. mix in a\n12 oz. bottle, adding the alcohol. After the\nreaction, separate the clear solution, and add\nto the rose water.\n8. Salicylic acid, sodium bicarbonate, saccha-\nrine, each 60 gr. alcohol, water, each 4 fl. oz.\noil of peppermint, 5 drops. Of this solution,\nuse two teaspoonfuls to a wineglass of hot\nwater, and use as a gargle twice daily.— Phar-\nmaceutical Record.\nBronzing.— China, Glass, Wood, etc., How\nto Bronze.— One method of bronzing wood,\nchina, glass, metal, etc., consists in the applica-","height":"4244","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0698.jp2"},"691":{"fulltext":"Camphor.\n679\nCements.\ntion of fine bronze powders, differently col-\nored, and of a concentrated solution of 30° B,\nof soluble glass, prepared with potash or sili-\ncate of potash. The articles are first coated by\na brush with a thin and uniform layer of solu-\nble glass, after which the bronze powder is put\non by means of a dredger. The objects treated\nare then dried in the air or in a room at a mod-\nerate heat, and the superfluous bronze powder\nwhich has not been attached to the glass is\nbrushed away with a large camel s hair brush.\nThe bronze powder and glass are so thoroughly\nunited and adhere so firmly to the objects\ntreated that they cannot be taken off by wash-\ning either with alcohol, ether, or water. They\ncan also be burnished with an agate burnisher.\nWhere stoves and fireplaces have been ^treated\nin this manner, the application will not be in-\njured by the heat. A very useful application\nof this process is the renovating of worn or\ndamaged picture frames, cornices, etc. As\nbronze powder is made in different colors and\nshades, the application of this process for orna-\nmental purposes is capable of much extension.\n—Desicjn and Work.\nZinc Fret-Work, to Bronze. Coat the metal\nwith very thin gold size, and when nearly dry\nrub on a sufficient quantity of red bronze\n(bronze powder), dry and burnish.\nCamphor, Perfumed Naphthalin. Naph-\nthalin, 3000 parts; camphor, 1000 parts; coum-\narin, 2 parts nerolin, 1 part nitrobenzol, 10\nparts. Melt together the naphthalin and cam-\nphor, then add the perfumes.— DietericWs Man-\nual.\nCelluloid Varnish. See Varnishes.\nCements. Casein.- By heating milk with a\nlittle tartaric acid, the casein is coagulated.\nThis casein is then treated with a solution con-\ntaining 6 parts of borax to 100 parts of water\nand warmed. It speedily dissolves and forms\na very tenacious adhesive medium.\nCap Cement.— (Soulan s.)— Make the follow-\ning solution Purified resin, 7 dr.; ether, 10 dr.;\ncollodion, 15 dr. Sufficient aniline red. Dis-\nsolve the resin in the ether, mix it with the\ncollodion, and color to taste. All that is nec-\nessary to apply the mixture is to dip the cork\nand the top of the bottle in it, turning it for an\ninstant in the hand while the composition dries.\nThe result is a semi-transparent varnish of\npleasing appearance, especially if the cork of\nthe bottle is previously sealed on top with seal-\ning wax.\nIron Cement.— 1. The rusting of joints is an\nold trick with mechanics. But in place of sal\nammoniac let the joiner use chloride of lime,\none of the common disinfectants, and the fixity\nof the joint will surprise him. Two joints of 3-\ninch cast iron pipe, with flanges sufficiently\nwide to take in three-fourth inch bolts, were\nsecured with a mixture (in the usual propor-\ntion) of cast iron filings, water, and chloride of\nlime. The actual proportions were Fine filings,\n10 parts chloride of lime, 3 parts water,\nenough to mix to a paste. These joints were\nbolted together after the mixture was placed\nbetween them, and after being left one night,\nwhen broken apart the cement scaled off a por-\ntion of the solid iron of one of the flanges.\nThis cement has stood the action of sixty\npounds of steam in a pipe connection to a\nsteam boiler where rubber glands and canvas\nand white lead failed.\n2. For stopping holes in castings, or for cov-\nering scars, a useful cement may, it is said, be\nmade of equal parts of powdered gum arabic,\nplaster of Paris, and iron filings and, if a lit-\ntle finely pulverized white glas be added to the\nmixture, it will make it still harder. This mix-\nture forms a very hard cement that will resist\nthe action of fire and water. It should be kept\nin its dry state, and mixed with a little water\nwhen wanted for use.\nLabels, to Cement o Tin, Zinc and Glass.— 1.\nRub the metal with emery paper and attach the\nlabel with sodium silicate (water glass). The\nlabels thus cemented will stand considerable\nheat. 2. Dip the metal into a strong and hot\nsolution of washing soda, afterward rubbing\nperfectly dry with a clean i*ag. Onion j uice is\nthen applied to the surface of the metal, and\nthe label pasted and fixed in the ordinary way.\nIt is said to be almost impossible to separate\npaper and metal thus joined.\nMastics or Metallic Cements.— 1. Mr. C. Powell\nKarr explains that mastic is a substance which\nis generally considered to be a composition of\nfinely ground oolitic limestone mixed with\nsand and litharge, and to which has been added\na portion of linseed oil. Its composition, how-\never, is quite variable. It has also received the\nappellation of a metallic cement. In small\nquantities its usage is similar to that of com-\nmon mortar, in pointing up the joints of stone-\nwork and in patching up disintegrated walls.\nMany of these mastics contain a certain pro-\nportion of metal, iron, zinc, lead, etc., whence\ntheir name\nIn general they acquire a substantial hard-\nness after a lapse of some time. The formulas\nfor the preparation of these cements are ex-\nceedingly numerous, and have been more thor-\noughly developed and studied in Europe than\nin America.\nAt Paris alone more than twenty firms make\na specialty in dealing in this building material.\nMost of those mentioned here are of French\norigin.\n2. Mastic of Litharge.— Mix 93 parts of pot-\nter s clay, well burned and pulverized, and 7\nparts of litharge, in powder, with pure linseed\noil to the consistency of a stiff plaster. Sprinkle\nwith water the surface to be coated before em-\nploying the mastic, as would be done for plas-\ntering. This mastic, as pointed out by Theuard,\nserves successfully to line reservoirs and point\nup the joints of masonry. It becomes very\nhard.\n3. The following is also vouched for as being\nequally adapted to the same kind of work:\nSiliceous sand, 14$! by volume pulverized\nchalk, 14$ by volume powdered litharge, of\nthe weight of sand and stone together linseed\noil, 3 of the total weight.\nIt is necessary to calcine the calcareous mat-\nter and sand before mixing them with the rest\nof the ingredients. The parts to be coated with\nmastic are previously painted with linseed oil.\n4. Other compositions commended by Mr.\nMarcel Daly are as follows, by weight: Cement,\n63*15$; white lead, 10*52$; litharge, 10*52$; lin-\nseed oil, 10*52$ drying oil, 5*26$.\n5. And another is, by weight: Pulverized\nburnt clay, 50$; litharge, 8J$; white lead, L 8£$;\nlinseed oil for the dilution, 25$ drying oil, 8£$.\nThe last mastic is called the mastic of Corbel,\nIt is employed for repointing the flags in\nhumid places, to repair curb stones or the\njoints of dressed stone masonry which are to be\npainted with oil and exposed to the action of\nsea air.\n6. Argillaceous pozzuolana ground to a pow-\nder can be substituted for the burnt clay and\nwhite lead. This last ingredient does not ap-\npear to be of any special importance. The sur-\nfaces to which the cement is applied must be\nclean and dry.\n7. Fontenelle Mastic— Two parts, by weight,\nof oxide of zinc, 2 parts of very aard calca-\nreous stone passed through a sieve of t§u of an\ninch, and 1 part of crushed sandstone or\nquartz rock. The whole is mixed as it is\nserved, and colored with a little ocher or car-\nbon black, of which the weight should be de-\nducted from the quantity of stone employed.\nThen dissolve clippings of zinc freshly cut in\ncommercial hydrochloric acid up to the point\nof saturation. Then add to the liquor thus\nprepared one-sixth of its weight of zinc dis-\nsolved. This is allowed to settle and the super-\nnatant liquid decanted. Then add two-fifths","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0699.jp2"},"692":{"fulltext":"Cleansing.\n680\nCleansing.\nof water, by volume, to the liquid thus pre-\npared. We have, as a result, a liquid and a\npowder which, united, make the cement. It is\nto be applied quickly to the stone surface,\npricked or lightly roughened and brushed. It\ntakes about one pound of the powder to one-\nthird of a quart of the liquid. At the last\nmoment the stone is moistened with the pure\nliquid, the cement is then applied and set with\na trowel. The operation is performed in about\ntwenty minutes. When the part to be mended\nmeasures more than two inches in thickness,\nit is found to be economical and yet not detri-\nmental to good work to convert the cement\ninto a concrete by adding pebbles the pebbled\nsurface may be afterward bush-hammered to a\nuniform surface.\n8. Mastics for Water Jars or Vessels.— This is\ngenerally composed of iron filings, 88 8$, and\nsalt, 11 2%. Make an infusion for 24 hours in 2\nquarts of vinegar to this there is sometimes\nadded one-half quart of urine (or replace this\nby ammonia water) and garlic (4 garlics). The\nfilings should be fresh and clean, and without\nrust. The hardness that this mastic acquires\nwith time is incontestable, but it will answer\nonly for coarse work. It is used to restore\nparts broken out by frost or accidents, but to\nblend patching with old masonry the following-\nmixture is better\n9. Filings Mastic. Take three-sevenths, by\nweight, of pulverized stone (as much as possi-\nble like the stone that is to be repaired, both as\nto color and characteristics), two-sevenths of\nthe cement to be added slowly, two-sevenths of\nthe cast iron filings, or the same amount of\ncopper. It goes without saying that the iron\nfilings are the most economical. Triturate these\nthree substances with care, so as to arrive at a\ncomplete mixture, then moisten with water,\nlittle by little, after the manner of mixing fine\nplaster. This last cement, says M. Daly,\nhas given excellent results at the Hotel de\nVille of Quesnoy (North), where MM. F. Guil-\nlemin and L. Laubser have employed it with\nsuccess. 1 American Gas Liight Journal.\nMetal, Cement for.— This well known cement,\nwhich is prepared from zinc oxide and zinc\nchloride and some other material, such as iron\nslag, powdered glass, etc., may be caused to set\nmore slowly by adding with the zinc chloride,\nwhen it is mixed, with the other ingredients,\nsome zinc sulphate and powdered limestone.\nThe adhesive power of the cement (for cement-\ning metals) may be increased by the addition\nof 2 per cent, of ferrous sulphate.— If. Spenle.\nPlaster Models, to Cement.— Sandarac varnish\nis the best material. Saturate the broken sur-\nfaces thoroughly, press them well together,\nand allow them to dry.\nWhite Cement.— White cement of the same\ncharacter as Portland cement iG made by grind-\ning together three parts of chalk and one of\nkaolin, burning at a red heat and grinding\nagain. The cement made by this process hith-\nerto has shown a tensile strength only about\none-half as great as that of good Portland ce-\nment, but it has the hydraulic quality and other\ncharacteristics of Portland cement, and it is to\nbe hoped that the manufacture may be so im-\nproved as to increase the tensile strength to\nthe point required for making artificial stone.\nIf a white cement can be found for a matrix,\nit will -be easy to obtain aggregates of light\ncolor by utilizing white sand, marble dust,\nwhite talc, and so on, suitable for making a con-\ncrete which could be used in place of marble.\nWoodwork, Cement for. -The following cement\nwill be very hard when dry, and will adhere\nfirmly to wood. Melt 1 oz. of resin and 1 oz. of\npure yellow wax in an iron pan, and thoroughly\nstir in 1 oz. of Venetian red, until a perfect\nmixture is formed. Use while hot.\nCleansing.— Belts, to Remove Oil from.—\nWhen a belt #ets saturated with waste oil, an\napplication of ground chalk will soon absorb\nthe oil, and make the belt workable.\nCleansing Compound.— 1. A French patent re-\ncently published describes the use of a liquid\nbased on petroleum for cleansing linen. In the\npatent it is directed to dissolve Q 23 lb, of cam-\nphor in 4)4 lb. of light petroleum (such as kero-\nsene), and in the camphorated solution to steep\n1 lb. of onions. In the course of two days, the\nprinciple residing in the onions is extracted\nand the liquid filtered. The resulting fluid is\nto be used as follows A tablespoonful of it is\nadded to four or eight gals, of water. The linen\nto be treated is rubbed with soap until a lather\nis produced, and then boiled ten minutes in the\nsolution or mixture of petroleum, rinsed in\ncold water and dried.— Oil and Colorman^s Jour-\nnal. (Not tested.)\n2. Stain Remover for Textile Fabrics.— Soap\nbark extract, 1 oz. borax, 1 oz. fresh ox gall,\n4 oz. tallow soap, 15 oz. Mix the borax, ex-\ntract, and gall together by triturating in a\nmortar, then incorporate the soap so as to pro-\nduce a plastic mass, which may be moulded or\nput up in boxes. 3. Oleic acid, 1 part borax,\n2 parts fresh ox gall, 5 parts tallow soap, 20\nparts. Mix the borax and ox gall, then incor-\nporate the soap, and lastly mix in the oleic\nacid.\nPaint, Hints on Cleaning.— Paint should be\nmore often swept than scrubbed, for too fre-\nquent scrubbing causes it to decay. Use as\nlittle soap as possible, and wash it off with\nplenty of clean water to prevent discoloration.\nTo clean paint that has not been varnished,\nput upon a plate some of the best whiting;\nhave ready some clean warm water and a piece\nof flannel, which dip into the water and squeeze\nnearly dry then take as much whiting as will\nadhere to it, apply it to the paint, when afittle\nrubbing will instantly remove any dirt or\ngrease wash well off with water, and rub dry\nwith a soft cloth. Paint thus cleaned looks\nequal to new, and, without doing the least in-\njury to the most delicate color, it will preserve\nthe paint much longer than if cleaned with\nsoap, and it does not require more than half\nthe time usually occupied in cleaning.\nPapier Mache, Japanned Goods, etc., to Clean.\nBoiling water should not be poured over tea\ntrays, japanned goods, etc., as it will make the\nvarnish crack and peel off. Have a sponge,\nwet with warm water, and a little soap, if\nthe tray be very dirty then rub it with a cloth\nif it looks smeary, dust on a little flour, then\nrub it with a cloth. If the paper tray gets\nmarked, take a piece of woolen cloth, with a\nlittle sweet oil, and rub it over the marks. If\nanything will take them out, this will.\nShells, to Clean.— Dark, colored organic mat-\nter on the outer surface is first removed by\nmaking a thick mixture of one part bleaching-\npowder to two parts water and soaking the\nshell therein. On removing wash and scrub it.\nThick incrustations of lime must be picked off\nwith a sharp-edged hammer or some similar\ntool, and then the shell must be dipped in boiling\ndilute hydrochloric acid. Valuable shells may\nhave the face or pearly portion covered with\nshellac varnish, which may be removed with al-\ncohol after the acid bath. For strong, heavy\nshells use 1 acid to 3 of water for delicate shells\nuse 1 part acid to 10 of water. Dip the shell for\na second only, wash and examine; if not enough,\ngive it a second dip. Hold it in wooden forceps\nor attach it to a stick in any way to serve as its\nhandle. The important point is not to let the\nacid stay long on the shell. For local spots it\nmay be applied with a brush.\nTor Stains, to Remove.— It is said that tar is\ninstantaneously removed from hand and fin-\ngers by rubbing with the outside of fresh\norange or lemon peel, and wiping dry imme-\ndiately after. It is astonishing what a small\npiece will clean. The volatile oils in the skins\ndissolve the tar, and so it can be wiped off.","height":"4244","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0700.jp2"},"693":{"fulltext":"Coal.\n681\nCopying\nWindows, Paste for Cleaning, readily made\nand very efficient, is recommended in the Prag.\nttdsch. 1. Finely powdered carbonate of mag-\nnesium is made into suitable paste with soap\nspirit (soap dissolved in alcohol) and soda solu-\ntion. A little of the paste on a sponge rubbed\nover the glass, and the glass polished with\nalcohol just before t he paste dries, insures\nbright, clean windows.\n2. Window polishing paste is made of 99 parts\nprepared chalk and 5 parts each of white bole\nand Armenian bole, rubbed together into a\nsmooth paste with 50 parts water and 25 parts\nalcohol. The paste is to be rubbed on the win-\ndow, allowed to dry, and then rubbed off with\ncloths.\nCoal, Products of. From a single ton\nof ordinary gas coal may be produced 1,500 lb.\nof coke, 20 gal. of ammonia water, and 140 lb.\nof coal tar. By destructive distillation the\ncoal tar will yield 69 6 lb. of pitch, 17 lb. of\ncreosote, 14 lb. of heavy oils, 9 5 lb. of naphtha\nyellow, 6 3 lb. of naphthaline, 4 75 lb. naphthol,\n2*25 lb. alizarin, 2*4 lb. solvent naphtha, 1*5 lb.\nphenol, 1 2 lb. aurine, 1*1 lb. benzine, 1*1 lb. ani-\nline, 0*77 lb. toluidine, 0*46 lb. anthracine, and\n0*9 lb. of toluene. From the latter is obtained\nthe substance known as saccharin, which is 230\ntimes as sweet as the best cane sugar.\nCopper, to Color.— Copper sulphate, J4\noz. sodium hyposulphite, oz. add 1 pt. of\nwater. Clean the articles to be colored, and\nheat solution. More of the copper sulphate\ngives a gray tint.\nCop yiiiir.— Ingenious Artistic Invention.—\nM. Felix Plateau describes in Les Mondes an\ningenious process, of his own invention, for\ndrawing on paper white lines on a black ground\n—a method so frequently used for scientific\nillustrations— by means of which both author\nand artist will be able to judge of the effect of\nsuch an illustration before putting it into the\nhands of the engraver. A piece of thick pa-\nper, as smooth as possible, a little larger than\nthe intended illustration, is heated, say, by lay-\ning it, with proper precautions against being-\ninjured, on the top of a stove, and a piece of\nbeeswax is rubbed over it until the paper is\ncompletely covered with a thin coating. A\npiece of glass, the size of the paper, is black-\nened by being held over a candle, and when\nthoroughly cooled, it is laid on the wax paper,\nand rubbed firmly with the fingers, the result\nbeing that a blackened surface is produced on\nthe paper, on which any design can be traced,\nwith a needle for the finer lines, or the back of\na steel pen for the thicker ones.\nCopying Processes.— 1. A black process\nis given in the Photocopie of A. Fisch. The\nprocess is technically known as heliography, is\nsimple and inexpensive, while the prints are\nink-black, and are made from drawings or\npositives and negatives. We owe this process\nto Poitevin, but it has been slightly improved.\nSensitizing Solution. Dissolve separately\n(1.) Gum arabic, 13 dr. water, 17 oz. (2.) Tar-\ntaric acid, 13 dr. water, 6 oz. 6 dr. (3.) Persul-\nphite of iron, 8 dr. water, 6 oz. 6 dr.\nThe third solution is poured into the second,\nwell agitated, and then these two solutions\nunited are added to the first, continually stir-\nring. When the mixture is complete, add\nslowly, still stirring, 100 c. c. (3 fl. oz. 3 dr.) of\nliquid acid perchloride of iron at 45° B. Filter\ninto a bottle and keep away from the light. It\nkeeps well for a very long time.\nSelect a paper that is very strong, well sized,\nand as little porous as possible. By means of\na large brush or sponge apply the sensitizing\nliquid very equally in very thin and smooth\ncoats; then dry as rapidly as possible with heat,\nwithout exceeding, however, a temperature of\n55° C. (131° F.) The paper should dry in obscu-\nrity, and be kept away from light and damp-\nness. Notwithstanding all these precautions, it\ndoes not keep very long. It should be of a yel-\nlow color.\nPrinting.— The tracing, made with very black\nink, is placed in the printing frame, the draw-\ning in direct contact with the plate then place\nover it the sensitized paper, the prepared side\nin contact with the back of the tracing. The\nprogress of insolation is sufficiently seen on the\nsensitized paper during the exposure. From\nyellow that it was it should become perfectly\nwhite in the clear portions, that is to say, upon\nwhich there is no drawing of the transfer or\npositive cliche that is to be copied this is as-\ncertained by raising from time to time the\nshutter of the frame. The exposure lasts 10-12\nminutes in the sun in summer less, in winter\nmore. When the exposure is ended remove the\nprint from the frame, and it should show a yel-\nlow drawing upon a white ground. If in the\nsensitizing bath a few cubic centimeters of a\nrather highly concentrated solution of sulpho-\ncyanide of potassium have been added, this\nbath becomes blood-red and colors paper the\nsame. In this case the print also whitens dur-\ning exposure, but then the image, instead of\nbeing yellow, is red on a white ground. This\nsubstance, however, is, if we may so speak, in-\nert, or without any other action; it is very\nfugitive, and even disappears in a short time in\nobscurity it has no other use, therefore, than\nto render the drawing or the image more visi-\nble after exposure.\nDeveloping the Prints.— When the print has\nbeen sufficiently exposed, it is taken from the\npressure frame and floated for a minute in the\nfollowing solution, so that the side upon which\nis the image should alone be in contact with the\nsurface of the liquid, avoiding air bubbles be-\ntween the two surfaces. The developing bath\nis composed as follows: Gallic acid (or tannin),\n31-46 gr.; oxalic acid, l /i gr.; water, 34 oz.\nIn this bath the orange yellow or red lines\nare changed into gallate or tannate of iron, and\nform, consequent^, a veritable black writing\nink, as permanent as it. The print is then\nplunged into ordinary water, well rinsed, dried,\nand the print is now finished. The violet black\nlines become darker in drying, but unfortu-\nnately the ground which appears of a pure\nwhite often acquires, in drying, a light vioiet\ntint. For prints with half tones this is of no\nimportance but for the reproduction of plans,\nfor example, it is very objectionable.\n2. The Papier Zeitung gives the following di-\nrections for making an improved graph:\nSoak 4 parts of best clear glue in a mixture of 5\nparts pure water and 3 parts ammonia (presum-\nably liquor ammonia) until the glue is thor-\noughly softened. Warm it until the glue is dis-\nsolved, and add 3 parts of granulated sugar and\n8 parts of glycerine, stirring well and letting it\ncome to the boiling point. While hot, paint it\nupon clean white blotting paper, with a broad\nbrush, until the blotting paper is thoroughly\nsoaked and a thin coating remains on the sur-\nface. Allow it to dry for 2 to 3 days, and it is then\nready for use. The writing or drawing to be cop-\nied is done with the usual aniline ink upon writ-\ning paper. Bef oi-e transferring to the blotting\npaper, wet the latter with a sponge or brush\nand clean water, and allow it to stand one or\ntwo minutes. Place the written side down and\nstroke out any air bubbles, and submit the\nwhole to gentle pressure for a few moments,\nremove the written paper, and a number of\nimpressions can then be taken in the ordinary\nway. When the impressions begin to grow\nweak, wet the surface of the graph again.\nThis graph does not require washing off,\nbut simply laying away for 24 to 36 hours, when\nthe surface will be ready for a new impressio.n.\n3. Permanently moist copying paper.— A per-\npetually damp copying paper, always ready for\nuse, is described in the Paper Trade Journal.\nIt is prepared by dissolving 1 lb. of chloride of\nmagnesium in a moderate quantity of warm or\ncold water— about 1 lb. When dissolved, apply","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0701.jp2"},"694":{"fulltext":"Corn. 682\nDistillery,\nthis solution with a brush to ordinary copying-\npaper, whether in book form or otherwise, or\npreferably by means of cloth pads saturated\nwith the liquid, then place these pads between\nany suitable number of leaves: apply pressure,\nat first very moderate, until the absorption by\nthe paper is complete then remove the cloth\npads and apply with the press a strong- pres-\nsure. It is then ready for use.\nPaper prepared by this process will remain\npermanently moist under ordinary tempera-\nture, and if made dry by an extraordinary heat,\nwill regain its moisture ttpeu being- subjected\nto the common atmosphere.\nOne advantage of this method is that the\nsheets of paper will not adhere to each other,\nas is frequently the case when the paper is pre-\npared with compounds containing glycerine,\netc. The above process is patented.\nCorn Cures.— 1. Tincture pine needles, 400\nparts liquid ammonia caustic, 400 parts tinc-\nture of iodine, 200 parts. Also suitable for\nfrost bites.\n2. Salicylic acid, 9 parts extract cannabis in-\ndica, 1 part collodion, 48 parts. Cleanse and\ndry the foot thoroughly before applying.\n3. Resin, 6 parts balsam of fir, 5 parts then\nstir in salicylic acid as it cools, 10 parts.\n4. Resin cerate, 40 parts galbanum plaster,\n40 parts; verdigris, 15 parts; turpentine (the\noleoresin), 5 parts creosote, 3 parts.\n5. Salicylic acid, 2 drm.; arsenious acid, 1\ndrm.; vaseline, 1 oz.\n6. (C. W. Moister.) White wax, 3 oz.; Venice\nturpentine, )4 oz.; white resin, 34 oz.; salicylic\nacid, 1 drm.; balsam of Peru, 34 oz. Melt to-\ngether over a slow fire or water bath. Apply\ntwice a day for three days then soak the feet\nin warm water and pick out the corns.\nCorn, Wart and Bunion Cure.— Gun cotton,\n200 gr.; sulphuric ether, 1234 oz.: alcohol, 334\noz.; salicylic acid, 2 av. oz.; zinc chloride, 1 av.\noz. Mix the ether and alcohol and dissolve the\ngun cotton in the mixture. This will require\na day or so. Then add the salicylic acid, and\nwhen it is dissolved, the chloride of zinc. Keep\ntightly stoppered and away from the light or\nflame.\nCosmetics.— Cream Balm. White wax, 1\ndr.; paraffin, 34 dr.; oil sweet almonds, 2 dr.;\nadding vaseline and stirring well until cold.\nHaving dissolved in a mortar 34 drm. soda\nnitrate in 34 drm. of water, mix the above\nsalve thoroughly with this solution, and finally\nadd oil of lemon, 10 m.; oil of orange, 2 m.\nBalm, Magnolia. Florida water, 1 oz.; alco-\nhol, 1 oz.; rose water, 2 oz.; glycerine, 34 oz.;\nprep, chalk, 2 oz.; zinc oxide, 1 oz.; soft water,\n2 oz. Tint with carmine if desired.\nComedo Wash. (From Cosmetics.)— Potassium\ncarbonate, 3 drm.; distilled water, 3 oz.; oil\ncinnamon, 2 drops; oil rose, 1 drop. To be\nused with a damp sponge for hypersecretion\nof fat from the skin. Useful in comedo and\nacne.\nBlackheads.— 1. Boracic acid, 1 drm.; alcohol,\n1 oz.; rose water, 2 oz. Use with friction twice\na day on the skin affected.\n2. (Pharm. Bee.)— Thymol, 10 gr.; boric acid,\n120 gr.; tincture witch hazel, 1 fl. oz.; rose wa-\nter, 4 fl. oz. Mix. Mop it well over the surface\ntwice daily.\nAn Ointment for Removing the Dark Color in\nAcne Punctata. (Medical Bulletin.)— Lanolin,\n10 parts vaseline, 20 parts solution peroxide\nof hydrogen, 20-40 parts. If the blackheads\nbe complicated with papules and pustules,\nUnna recommends the employment of sulphur\nor sublimate for the removal of the latter.\nAcne.— In acne of persons with feeble diges-\ntion and torpid bowels, 10 drops of fluid ex-\ntract of Hydrastis canadensis, thrice daily, has\nproved of service.\nAcne, Pimply. (Nat. Druggist.)—!. Wash the\naffected parts with warm suds rub well, and\nfrequently in so doing express the contents of\nthe pimples and apply the following mixture\nFlowers of sulphur, 25 gr.; tincture of cam-\nphor, 134 dr.; lime water, 234 oz. Mix.\n2. In place of the mixture the following po-\nmade may be used: Sulphur, 25 gr.; carbolic\nacid, 10 drops; potassium carbonate, 25 gr.;\nlard, 1 oz. Mix, and make an ointment.\nCream Toilet.— Benzoinated lard, 6 oz.; oil of\nsweet almonds, 1 oz.; glycerine, 1 oz.; tincture\nbenzoin, 1 oz. Mix the first two and the last two\nseparately; then blend together with a wooden\npaddle and perfume as desired.\nGlycerine Jelly (Carbolated).— Isinglass, 1 oz.;\nglycerine, 16 oz.; water, 3 oz.; carbolic acid,\n1 dr.\nGlycerine Jelly (Solid).— French gelatine, 120\ngr.; glycerine, 134 oz.; water, 34 oz.; otto of\nrose, 1 drop.\nGerman Glycerine Lotion.— 3 grm. of cochi-\nneal is beaten up in a mortar with 45 grm. of\nboiling water, which is added to it gradually in\nsmall quantities at a time. Next 75 grm. of\nalcohol (rectified) are added. This constitutes\none-half of the preparation. On the other\nhand an emulsion is made of 8 drops of otto of\nrose, 2 grm. of gum arabic, and 240 grm. of\nwater to which is added 90 grm. of pure gly-\ncerine and then 40 grm. quince mucilage. The\ntwo preparations are next carefully mixed and\nbottled in clean stoppered bottles ready for\nuse. The bottles should be kept full and in a\ncool place where they are not exposed to the\nsun s rays. This is an elegant and useful pre-\nparation when the instructions above given are\nscrupulously carried out.\nRose Jellu— Flaxseed jelly, 1 pt.; glycerine, 4\noz.; salicylic acid, 5 gr.; oil rose geranium, q. s.\nto perfume. Mix.\nKaloderm.— Wheat flour, 4 lb.; almond bran,\n1 lb.; orris root, line powder, 1 lb.; extract rose,\n1 pt.; glycerine, 6 fl. oz. Form into a dough,\nwhich is thinned with water and painted on the\nskin.\nCrystalline Coating for Paper and\nWood.— Professor Bottger recommends the\nfollowing, as the simplest method of giving\npaper and wood surfaces a crystalline coating\nMix a very concentrated cold solution of salt\nwith dextrine, and lay the thinnest possible\ncoating of the fluid on the surface, to be cov-\nered by means of a broad, soft brush. After\ndrying, the surface has a beautiful, bright,\nmother-of-pearl coating, which, in consequence\nof the dextrine, adheres firmly to paper and\nwood. The coating may be made adhesive to\nglass by doing it over with an alcholic shellac\nsolution. The following salts are mentioned as\nadapted to produce the most beautiful crystal-\nline coating, viz.: Sulphate of magnesia, ace-\ntate of soda, and sulphate of tin. Paper must\nfirst be sized; otherwise it will absorb the\nliquid, and prevent the formation of crystals.\nColored glass thus prepared gives a good effect\nby transmitted light.\nDistillery, a Portable.— Photographers\naway from cities are often at their wits end to\nprocure water of assured purity. The follow-\ning cheap, portable and not in the way device\nmay help them in their difficulties. A cylinder\n13 inches high by 7 inches in diameter, with\nbottom made preferably of copper, with three\nlegs of strap iron high enough to raise the cyl-\ninder 6 inches f 1*0 m the ground. To the top of\nthe cylinder a conical lid 834 inches in diameter\n(outside) and 5 inches in height from base to\napex of cone, provided with a flange to fit\nsnugly inside the cylinder. Near the base of\nthe cone a tube 3 inches long is inserted.\nAbout 5 inches from the top of the cylinder a\ntube 10 inches long is passed through, termi-\nnating in a small furnace exactly under the\napex of the cone when the cover is on. The\nother end projects about three inches on the","height":"4244","width":"2681","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0702.jp2"},"695":{"fulltext":"Drills.\n683\nEtching\noutside of the cylinder. Fill the cylinder about\none-half full with ordinary water. If pressed for\ntime, hot water may be used. Adjust the cover\nand place the apparatus over a gas or oil stove,\nand, by means of an India rubber tube con-\nnected with a tap, pass a gentle stream of cold\nSECTION OP CYLINDER BODY, ETC.\nA. Thirteen inches high and seven inches in diam-\neter. B. Conical lid, eight and a half inches in\ndiameter and five inches in height from apex to\nbase of cone. C. C. Flanges to fit snugly inside\nthe cylinder. D. Tube three inches long. B.\nTube ten inches long, terminating in a small\nfunnel. Still was invented, I believe, by Mr. C.\nC. Neves, of England.\nwater into the cover, allowing the overflow to\npass out through the tube in the cover. When\nthe water boils, the steam rises and settles on\nthe cone cover, where it is condensed by the\ncold water in the cover, and it is then collected\nin the funnel and runs down the long tube\ninto a bottle or other receptacle.\nDrills, to Harden. See Hardening.\nDrinks, Temperature of. A writer in\na German paper gives the following as the\nproper temperatures for different kinds of\nbeverages Water, 54°; seltzer water and beer,\n57° to 60°; red wine, 62° to 66°; white wine, 60°;\nchampagne, 46° to 50°; coffee, 73° to 79°; beef\ntea, 100° to 125°; milk, 60° to 64°; hot milk, 93°\nto 95°.\nElectro Metallurgy.— Aluminum, Elec-\ntro-Plating with.— The essential features of a\nnew system of electro-plating with aluminum\nare as follows: A solution of ammonia alum\nin warm water is prepared, containing 20$ of\nalum. To this is added a solution containing\nabout the same quantity of pearlash and a\nlittle ammonium carbonate. The mixture re-\nsults in effervescence, and in the deposition of\na precipitate. The latter is filtered off and well\nwashed with water.\nA second solution of ammonia alum, contain-\ning 16$ of alum and 8% of pure potassium cya-\nnide, is now prepared warm and poured over\nthe precipitate previously obtained, the mix-\nture being then boiled for 30 minutes in a closed\niron vessel, jacketed to insure uniformity of\nheating.\nThe proportions suitable in the above solu-\ntions are as follows First alum solution. Am-\nmonia alum, 2 kg.; warm water, 10 kg. Pearl-\nash solution.— Pearlash, 2 kg.; warm water, 10\nkg.; ammonium carbonate, 8 to 10 grm. Second\nalum solution.— Ammonia alum, 4 kg.; warm\nwater, 25 kg.; potassium cyanide, 2 kg.\nAt this stage about 20 kg. of water are added\nand about 2 kg. more of potassium cyanide,\nand the whole is kept on the boil for about a\nquarter of an hour. The liquid is then filtered\nfrom the precipitate, and is now ready for use\nin the electrolytic bath.\nThe anodes are perforated or slotted plates\nof aluminum, arranged so that they can be\nconveniently raised or lowered. The cathodes\nreceive the deposit.\nThe anodes and the cathodes are connected\nrespectively to the terminals of a battery or of\na dynamo machine, and the current is thus\ntransmitted through the bath, which is kept\nthroughout the operation at a temperature of\nabout 80° to 150° Fah.\nBy attaching to the aluminum anode pieces\nof other metals, e. g., gold, silver, nickel, cop-\nper, etc., the tint of the deposited metal can be\nsomewhat varied. When the deposit presents\na gray tint it is brightened by dipping the plated\narticle in a solution of caustic soda, which has\nalso the effect of impeding oxidation.— Electri-\ncal Review.\nElectrotyping Non-conducting Materials, New\nProcess for. For electrotyping on non-con-\nducting materials, such as china and porcelain,\na new and ingenious process has been lately in-\ntroduced in France. Sulphur is dissolved in oil\nof spike lavender to a sirupy consistence then\nchloride of gold or chloride of platinum is dis-\nsolved in ether, and the two solutions mixed\nunder a gentle heat. The compound is next\nevaporated until of the thickness of ordinary\npaint, in which condition it is applied with a\nbrush to such portions of the china, glass, or\nother fabric as it is desired to cover, according\nto the design or pattern, with the electro-\nmetallic deposit. The objects are baked in the\nusual way before they are immersed in the\nbath.\nEnamels. Kristaline.— Kristaline is a hard,\ntransparent celluloid enamel, which can be\napplied as a lacquer on all kinds of art metal\nwork without affecting the most delicate finish,\nand can be relied upon to protect it from acid\nfumes, coal gas, eau de cologne, alcohol, oil,\nwater, fly specks, etc. It is applied by dipping,\nis invisible and leaves no mark in drying. Kris-\ntaline is specially designed to preserve the\nhighest class of art metal work from tarnishing\nand is recommended not only to preserve the\nhigh polish, but also to protect and preserve\nthe delicate shades of color produced by elec-\ntricity and artificial oxidation. It is largely\nused on solid silver, plated ware, etc. It is the\nproperty of the Celluloid Zapon Co., of New\nYork.\nSee also Lacquers and Varnishes.\nEssences.— Pine Needle Essence.— Fir wood!\noil, 70 grm.; oil of juniper berries. 8 grm.; oil\nof rosemary, 5 grm.; oil of lavender, 2 grm.;\noil of lemon, 2 grm.; oil of bergamot, 1 grm.;\nalcohol, 1,500 grm.\nThis, according to Scherer (Rundschau), con-\nstitutes a most refreshing and purifying spray\nfor sick rooms, or, in fact, for all living apart-\nments. The original directs macerating the\nabove with 200 grm. of fresh pine tops and dis-\ntilling. A cheap substitute is made by using-\noil of cedar and perfuming with oil of laven-\nder.\nRennet, Essence of.— One calf s rennet; lac-\ntic acid, 1 drm.; glycerine, 1 oz.; vinum Xericum\n(sherry wine containing 17% alcohol) 2 oz.; water\nto make 36 fl. oz.; macerate the minced rennet\nwith about 3 oz. of salt for 10 days, filter and\ncolor with cochineal.\nEtching.— Egg Sliells, Etching on, etc.\nCover the shells or other articles with appro-\npriate designs in tallow, or varnish, and im-\nmerse in strong acetic acid they will then\ncome out in strong relief.","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0703.jp2"},"696":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n684\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nW\n■M\no\na\no\n■M\nA\no\no\nOh\no\no\no\no\nc\na\n13\no\nw\n•EG\nEl\n■J\nCi-I\n-a\na\nen\nto r3\n03 5)\nM\noog\niS\nw\na\no\nO\no\nCM\na\neS\na\n03\n3\n+3\n1\nO\n03\nO CO\na\nH\nc\na\nco in\n03 3\nCD K\na\n+3\nH\nH\np a\nJ^i-I Fh\ne\nOrrt\n^33a\na\na\nSi\n10 +3\n■a\n^S 03\n03\nft\nFh\nfa\n«H\no\n0\no\nc3\nus\nH\nO\no\no\n00\n+3\n+3\nc3\nFh\na\n+3\nc3\nCO\nus-\n03\n3\n3\n03\n1-1\na\na\nCO\na\nITS Ho\n00\na\nrt us\nOh\nSo\ngo\n03SM\n-.9\n•a -p\nC3.S\n1H\nO\neg -a\no-a\nW5 S3\nest\neS\nX\n-a\n-a\n03\ne3\na 5§\n1-1 oS\nl -1 r-l\nco a\ni— i\n•3\nS\nft\n02\na rt\nCM4J f—W O 53\nS ©^C©-^\na 5\n•aH\ng 03\n.a o3 s\na v\n^03 19\nCD\nz\n03 t*\nrCJ\n^CM^S T3 CD\no.\nca\n0+3\nca 1 Oti 0^0\n03 J i-H r-l 02 rr\n.SlH SFH.Scl\nco jd co\n.3 OS .3\nrt COT 1\na 03\nCO Qu CO\n.3 o3 0.3\n9.1 SJl\nQ\nes\nQ\nP P\nP\nP\nP\nP\nOO\no\nO O\n000\n00\nO\nin\n•aa^ B^ aanj\nO O\no\no\nO CO\n0000\n000\n00\n00\nO\nO\nI— ll— 1\nT— 1\nT— 1\n1— H\nt-h t— It— li— 1 i— 1\n1H1-1\n1— I\n1—1\n1— 1 a\nX*\npioy oj-mqdng\no\noo\nq%t3X^.jvJj rants\nO\nm\nEH\ni— I\n-se^od-ranipog\n1—1\nCM\naim?\no\no\n-JB}ig ranisse^od\n1—1\nCO\nP\nOhVBu\n+3\n»ffl\nOh\n-oqxBO ranissB^oj;\n+3\nCM\nO\nt— i\nfa\no^uoqj^o rampog\nO OCOO\nCM 01- CM\nm\nCM\nm\nCO\ncr\nepog oi^snBO\nCO\no\nE-i\nCO\nCO\nCK8 ^HCXl CO\nCD\nlO\nCM\nCO\n(088.0) ■Btuoraray\n1—1 tHi— I\nCM\nT— 1\n1—1\na\nr~~\no\ni— i\na^iqdinsig; *ipog\n00\nest est cm 1—1\nCM\nCM\nCO\na^iqdxng ranipog\nI\nCM\n1—1\nCO\nCO\nH\naq\no\n*a\nt-l\nGO OCOCNl CO\nest m\n»o\nm\nm\nm\napnra^o rantssB^oj\n•CM\n(N\nCM\nN o\ncm cxtT— icst th\ncm est\n1— 1\nCO\nCM\nCM\n03\nE-i\no\nCO\nm\nm\n«4\na^Bqdjng aaddoo\nin\nt-\n10\nCM\ni—(\nCO CO\noo\nPh\napiuB^o aaddoo\na^BuoqjBO aaddoo\nCM\nCO\na^aoy -taddoo\n•i— I\n1— 1\n0010\nest oil— icm 1— 1\nCO\n1—1\nO\nCM\n2\n2 2\na O O\na\nSo\nX*^\n-a\nOC3\na ^r*\n+-a~\nn\n^5 ?-i-r O t*\no\no\n+3\n03 °M O\n^o 1\nTJO\n^O O\nFji— 1\nW\nP ffi\na\n-P\nw\n3^\nFa\n2 1\n-P\no o\n3\nBe\n+3 O r-\nco S-S\n.si\n■*J Fh\ns|s\na\n3\nS 3\n:d85 Irt N\n-3\na 2 c\nS\na\nS3\na os\n1\na\no\nM\ng 5^\na\nFh\nN^\nC\no\na\n«4\nCD\nSB\nip\nU\na\n03\na\n03\n1-5\nO 0}\ne3 ©s 2 i\nCO CO\n03\n+3\n43\n03\nCO\nm\ni\nd\nHN\nCO\ni ooao h\nest 00\nm\nCO fc-\n.fc\n1— 1 1—1\n1—1 tH\n1—1\nra\nH rH\no\nft\no\nFh\nft\n-a\n-a\na\ne3\na\n*a\nS\na\no\n-a\na\n03\no\n+3\nfU\na\n1\np\nhJ\nFh\npq\na\nbu\n^a\nO\nH\nci\nS\nP\n2\n03\na\no","height":"4343","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0704.jp2"},"697":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n685\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nn\nM\nM\nCD\nbit\na\nH\na\nO\nCO\nO\n0)\n=H\nt-\nP\n■P\n-0\nCO\nCO\nCD\nH\n^3\nC\nCD\n9\nP 0)\nSi\n03 CD\n.-q^j cd\no\n03\n03\nft\n03\nc3\nw\nCD CD\n£a5 3\no f3 q\nCO B\nq ^j cd\ng rfi jq co\nft\no\n-d\no\n+3\nj!\n3\niH C\n8/\n•2 2\no3\n.2 ft\nCO\nq i* a\no\nCD* o co\nCD o CD\nq »0 CD\ny cd\n02 .5 q\nP q cd\n(N P 03 CD-^-\nr o *0*\na o o 3Z,.z\no q 2.=?-2\nH\n,S ft a\n•rr Jh k\nS Cd) CD\ncd 3* co\nf-i.S 3\nft\nIs a\n1-1 °3 4\n0\no c\nJ\nO* CD\nep s- rS a T3 g\nCD ,rs CD\nP.\n9\nS\ncd .s g.a\nt-l l\nGG\nO fr-\nS P^ S «^CD\n0^ c\nee r\nCO\nDO\n3 CD coS\na £3 .°2Ph\n£w p\nco CO\nco C co\nQ\nP\np p\no\no\nooooo\nOOOOOOOOO O\nCO\n00\nja^B^i\no\nooooo\nOOOOOOOOO O\n00\no\no\nooooo\no o o o o i o o o o o\n00\n1— 1\ntH\nt— 1 1— 1 H i— 1 rH\nHrHi-ir-lHHrHr-IH i— 1\nl—l t— (rH\nBtnoraray\n8 i\nCO\napijojqo ranipog\n10\n-«*l\nto\nI—I\nH\nfc\nP\naq.Buoqj BQ ranipog\n.tf5\n■xa\nCO CO\nP\nP\nP3\n8 PIP0l ranissB^oj;\nm\nh- 1\nPh\n$S6)\n03\no\nwo\nCiO\nlO OO y v\nCOOOOiC- t— llO-i-\nr-ICNtkOCOt-t-lt- 1\nh co oc tn co v.\n\\0 *4 I\nO\nopitreA o ranissB^o i\nCO\nEC\nHOOWN\nC^iCO\nX\nCO M\nO- Z2\ncy\no\na^uoqjBQ JOAfig\nOS\np\napixo J9Axig\n\\n\ni—i\n9^-Ba^lJs[ JOAHg\nlO\nTH\n;«o\nj\nCM\nft\n©Ptpoi -iaAjig\n1— 1\nc»\nOpiUB^O JSAHg\nooooo\nC^CXI .eo^ -ci)g3\nCO\n.CO\ncc\nco v*\n-J* P\napijomo aaAfig\nJS\nOS\npj\no\n•r* 03 i\ngo*\na\nc\n5-i\n:S|\no a\n■2 =fbc5fsx) a*\n0J _C g C fj CO\n:p, S^S+s a-c\n05\n+a\nCD\nCD\nOQ +3\nCO\nco O\ne\ng^jpq\nftfta.,\n«ftO\nCO\n05\no\nen -^ft-^ft S C\na\nCDT3 S\n1\no\nCC CD^\nt\nH\no\nT T\nCD\nbo\n-p\n-p\n:o\npq\nu\no\na\nX\nCD\nCO\nP\nco O\nCD ^2\ng q\nO i b=h\n3 CD\ncd g\nP^!\ni\nco q\n!S 3 -3\nc\n1\na\ncrj irieo\nL- 30 CJ5 O i-4 Ol CO it*\nm\na t-00\n13\nCD\nao\na\nCO\nq\no\nu\nOS\nCD\n^3\nbe\nq\n^C\no\nq\n0)\nCD\n0)\nCD\na\na\na\no\n*q\nq\nbe\no\n,a\nH\nhJ\nEH\no\nH\no","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0705.jp2"},"698":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\nElect ro-Metall u rgy.\nTable Showing the Composition\nop Nickel Baths por\n12 3 4 5\n6\n7 8\n9 10 11 12 13\nPARTS BY WEIGHT\n3\nxn\n1\n3\ni\nNo.\nAuthority.\nSpecial\nApplication\nof Bath.\n+3\nce\nM\no\n•pH\no3\na\no\nfi\n?a\no\ni— i\no\n•rH\no\ns\nQ\na;\nM\no\n03\n+3\ncj\nu\n+3\nO\ni— i\n+3\neg\n+3\n•rH\no\nIS\n26-7\n+3\n,4\na\n03\no\nPh\nM\n0)\nP.\n3\nB\ng\n3\no\na\na\nr-H\na\nS\no\na\na\no»\no\n+a\nOS\nU\n+a\n•IH\no\na\n.g\n5a\nOS\neg\n+3\no\nPh\n03\nfl\nO\nr©\nU\nc3\no\nS\na\ng\n*a\no\n+3\n•H\n43\nP.\n3\noa\ns\na\nS\no\nw.\na\no\nPh\na\n•rH\no\n1\nAdams,\nBoden,\n50-80\n2\n33\n3\nDesmur,\nElectricias,\nHospitalier,\nLangbein, j\nNagel,\nPfanhaueer,\nPotts,\nPowell,\nSmall goods\nPrinting sur-\nfaces\ni\n70\n50\n100\n8\n4\n5\n6\n60-72\n7\n4-5\n50-60\n50\n1\ni\ni\n8\n54\n50\n50\n50\n9\n27 5\n10\n11\n12\n13\n15\n15\n15\n25\n30\n14\n3\n26\n15\nRoseleur,\nVolkmer,\n40\n16\n111\n17\nWatt, -j\nTin, britannia\nmetal, etc.\nIron\n33*3\n18\nit\n40\n19\nWeiss,\n50\n50\n20\n21\nIt\n(t\nIron and steel\nZinc\n42\n50\n17\n22\n23\nfrt\ni\n42\n24\nWeston,\nHard deposit\n40\n50-67\n10\n1\n25\ni\nNotes to Table. -The black figures in the last column refer to the numbers of the vertical\nnearly boiling, are generally employed at the ordinary temperature.","height":"4343","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0706.jp2"},"699":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n687\nElectro-Metallurgy.\nSeparate Current Process, as Recommended by Various Authorities.\n14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25\nOF INGREDIENTS\n03\n•a\no\na\na\ni\n26-7\n190\n37\na5\n1=1\nO\n,Q\nt-t\n03\no\na\ng\n*a\no\na\na\nq.s.\nq.s.\nq.s.\no\no\na\n3\na\no\na\na\n03\nft\ni-H\nO\nXII\na\na\no\na\na-\n05\n+j\n03\nU\n+3\n03\nEH\na\ng\na\no\na\na\n+3\n03\na\ns\n8\neS\nQ\n.2\no\n12\no\ns\n12\nO\nffl\n!2\n_©\nS\n!2\no\nfl\nfl\n03\n+3\n03\nSpecial Method of Preparation.\n50\n22-33\n25\n42\n•_*•■\n4-5\n5\n7-5\n25\n2000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\n1000\nj Neutralize, if necessary, with am-\nmonia.\nDissolve 12 in 25 than add rest.\nWarm sol. of 8 in 25 add 11 slowly.\nj Stir all with 150 of 25 then add rest\n1 of 25.\nBoil, cool, and filter.\n19-22\n36-5\n25-30\n20\n6 6\n6\n50\n15\n25\n17\n25\nq.s.\nAdd 1 5 last, till just neutral.\n7 5]\nj Pour sol. of 1 5 into sol. of 8 till just\n1 neutral avoid alkalinity.\nq.s.\nq.s.\n5\n(Boil 7 and 17 with 25, add 15 till\n1 neutral then 23 till just acid.\n15-30\n(Mixed cobalt-nickel precipitate.)\ncolui\nnans\nrepres\nsentinj\nth\ni vai\n•ious\nrea\nstents.\nAl\nL the\nsol\nutions, except No. 3, which may be used","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0707.jp2"},"700":{"fulltext":"Electro-Metallurgy.\n688\nElectro-Metallurgy.\no\nK\nH\nP\n02\nP\no\nH\nP.\nP\nH\no\n03\nOS\nO\nPh\nH\nP5\nP\nO\nPk\nP\n02\nS\nO\n02\nw\nffl\np\np\no\no\nS5\nO\nO\nOh\na\nO\no\nH\no\nw\n02\n9\na\no\nS\nSi\nPh\no\no\no\np.\n-a\nO\n1H 2\nQO 3\n+3\nd\no\n3 rt\nd\na; fh\n-I\n•d .3\n«1 P\ndS\nPo\nd\nSi?\nc\nd\nd\nc3\nd\nc\ntfl\n•ri O\nW5 3\n1H 53\no\n«H\na 2\nS-.\ns\n5\no\np\nd\niHlH\nO O\noq\nc\nd\nc8\n+3\nP.\nft\n3 1\nGO\nCO q_|\n«H O\na\ncs\nd-i P\n•3 5\np\n5} 03\nO\no\nc3\n©•SCQ\n02 P«H\n«1\n+3\nc\n:a aEs\n02 PfflCQ\nS h\n.3 a 5\n.S os 2 .s 3 3\npq p p=i.C5 UJi-h P\n3\na\n«H O\nPhPh\n3 fl^j\nPh fen+3\np££\n.3 o\no\niH CO^irSSOfc-CO OS O -H NCO","height":"4343","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0708.jp2"},"701":{"fulltext":"Explosives.\n689\nExplosives.\nExplosives.\nComposition. The following table shows the composition of the more important kinds.\nName of Powder.\nP\nd\nm\np\n+3\n3\nm\n.3\np\n•P.+ 3\nw ci\n32\nP-iO\n6\nd\ni 3\no o\no\n-P\no\no\na\nd\nO\nS3\nO\np\ns\no\n+3\n03\nP\n■a\nW.\nOther Ingredients\nand Notes.\nBennett\nX\nX\nX\n20\n16\nX\n9-2\n9 6\n9\n10\nX\nX\nX\nX\n48-6\n56\n66\n34\n525\n85\n265\n18-1\n8\n40\nX\n18\nX\n14-7\n15\n16\n8\nX\nOrdinary powder, with 7\nper cent, of gypsum.\nDavey\nPyronome\nOxland\nRobert Dole\nSchwartz (I.)\n(II.)\nKup\nstarch.\n27 5 tan.\n20 lignite.\n18 dehydrated sodium-\nsulphate.\nBudenberg\n4 lignite 4 sodium tar-\ntrate.\nKellow and Short\n10\n8\n7\n135\n16\n20\n17\nX\n10\n(J\nX\n40\n40\n48\n50\n50\n32\n51\n18\n2\n49\n1\n367 5\n20\nX\nX\n20\n1\n2\n34\n60\n64\n1-7\nX\n10\nX\n1\n77-5\n1\n9\n70\n-ST).\n78\n80\n40\n36\n35\n52\n77\n33\n89\n75\n50\n20\n5\n225\n95\n56-5\n90\nX\n92\n20\n525\n7\n5\n35\nX\n8\nX\n22\nX\n8\n10\n12-5\n15\n1-5\n21\n22\n4\n18\n2\n10\n21\n14\n8\n11\n12\n7\n64 tan.\nsodium carbonate or\nstarch.\n76 barium nitrate.\nNeumeyer\nWhite powder\npotassium cyanide.\n1 potassium cyanide\n1 sugar.\n22 sand.\nGiant powder\n13 cellulose 7 paraffin.\n48 mica.\n2 cellulose 20 magne-\nsium carbonate.\nRest unknown.\nDessignolles\n5u potassium picrate\ncharcoal if used for cannons\nor small firearms.\n50 ammonium picrate.\nTonite\nExplosive gelatine\n47*5 barium nitrate.\n4 camphor.\n2 magnesium carbonate.\nB.\nJudson (No. 2)\n(No. 3)\nRackarock\n2 magnesium carbonate.\nGelignite\nPyrolite (I.)\n(II.)\n6 sodium sulphate.\nSaxifragine (I.)\n(II.)\nAmerican powder\nErhardt\nHahn\n77 barium nitrate.\n76 barium nitrate.\n23 sugar 28 potassium\ncyanide.\n2 tannin material.\n46 spermaceti 168*5-\nHorsley\nSpence\nRoburite\nCarbodynamite\nMeg anite\nantimony sulphide.\n3 powdered galls.\n2 oil 5 sodium carbo-\nnate.\nnitronaphthalene.\nCordite or Abel\nGreen powder\ntan.\n20 picric acid 10 po-\ntassium cyanide.\nNote.— x denotes that the amount of ingredient present is unknown. Industries.","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0709.jp2"},"702":{"fulltext":"Extracts,\n690\nGilding.\nGlass.— Comparatively cheap etching solu-\ntions can be prepared, which are equal in\neffect to the expensive fluorine salts. Two\nsolutions are first prepared, (a) consisting- of 10\ngrm. soda in 20 grm. warm water, (b) consist-\ning of 10 grm. potassium carbonate in 20 grm.\nwarm water. Solutions (a) and (b) are now\nmixed, and to the mixture is added 20 grm. con-\ncentrated hydrofluoric acid, and afterward\na solution (c) consisting of 10 grm. potassium\nsulphate in 10 grm. water is added.\nStone, Etching on.— When thoroughly clean,\nmix and apply a small quantity of gum arabic,\nwith diluted nitric acid, and transfer your de-\nsign to the stone.\nExtracts.— Arrack Punch Extract. One\npineapple; cut into small cubes and ex-\ntract with deodorized alcohol, 3 qt.; arrack, 2\nqt. Filter and add sugar, 10 lb water, enough\nto make 10 qt.\nBum Punch Extract.— Rum, 3 qt.; moselle\nwine, 2 qt.; orange flower water, 8 oz.; sugar,\n10 lb.; oil lemon, fresh, 8 min.; water, enough\nto make 10 qt.\nTea Punch Extract.— Arrack, 2qt.; rum, 3 qt.;\nsugar, 10 lb.; essence lemon (prepared from rind\nof 4 lemons and 4 oranges and *70 p. c. alcohol\nto make 1 pt.), ^4 oz.; citric acid, oz.; infusion\ntea (10:10), 1 pt.; water, enough to make 10 qt.\nFerroline. See Lacquers.\nFilter Papers, to Fold.— A circular fil-\nter paper is readily made to fit the funnel by\nfolding it across one diameter as shown at\nA B in 1, then on folding it again at right\nangles as at C D in 2, it has the form of 3\nnow, on inserting the finger between the\nfolds of the paper it may be opened out to the\nconical shape shown in 4, and is thus ready to\nplace in the funnel. If, however, the paper\nshould not fit well into the cone of the latter,\nit may be refolded along the line, E F, as in 5,\nor along any other suitable line, and may thus\nbe adapted to suit a funnel constructed with\nany angle at its apex. Strongly acid solutions,\nsuch as those used in the bichromate battery,\ncannot be thus filtered, as they destroy the\npaper but the solution of the potassium bi-\nchromate may be passed through a filter before\nadding the acid to it. If it be necssary to clear\nany solution which attacks paper, a plug of\nspun glass or of asbestos may be lightly ram-\nmed into the apex of the funnel, and will form\nan efficient filtering medium in lieu of paper.\nFireprooiing. Textile Fabrics. Man-\nganous chloride, 33$; phosphoric acid, 20$;\nboric acid or borax, 10$ magnesium chloride,\n12% chloride ammonium or magnesium sul-\nphate, 25$. The materials are immersed for\n6 to 8 hours in this solution at the temperature\nof ebullition. They quickly become impreg-\nnated with double salts, insoluble in water, and\nthe incrustations that are formed effectually\nprotect the materials treated against fire.\nWhen exposed to a quick fire, they carbonize,\nbut produce no flame.— Winckelman.\nFrost Bites.— Carbolic acid, 20 drops ving.\nplumbi, J/4 oz.; oil olive, 34 oz.; oil rose gera-\nnium, 6 drops vaseline, lanolin, q. s., or 2 oz.;\nrub all together thoroughly. Apply to parts af-\nfected mornings and evenings.\nOil ding on Ola ss.— Glass can be gilded in\ntwo ways, by means of fire and by an adhesive\nvarnish. It is gilded by fire, by tempering\npowdered gold with borax and gum water.\nThe mixture is applied to the surface of the\nglass with a soft pencil brush when dry, the\narticle is put into a stove heated to the temper-\nature of an annealing oven the gum burns\noff, and the borax cements the gold firmly to\nthe article by vitrification after this process,\nthe gold on the article is burnished. Gilding is\nalso effected by an adhesive drying varnish,\nwhich is prepared by dissolving gum anime in\ndrying linseed oil. This mixture is diluted with\nsome oil of turpentine, and applied as thin as\npossible to the parts that are to be gilded. When\ndry, the article is to be placed in a stove or\nnear a fireplace, till it is warm enough to almost\nburn the fingers when handled, at which tem-\nperature the varnish is glutinous, and a piece\nof gold leaf applied will instantly adhere.\nWhen nearly cold, it is burnished, but care must\nbe taken to intervene a piece of very thin India\npaper between the gold and the burnisher.\nGold size is also used as an adhesive substance.\nThe requisite burnishing tools can be bought\nat any large painters supply house.\nBelow are given four methods of performing\nthis operation\n1. Take 2 oz. isinglass, and dissolve in just\nsufficient water to cover it; when dissolved,\nadd 1 qt. rectified alcohol and 1 qt. water.\nThis size must be kept in a bottle well cork-\ned. Thoroughly clean and polish the glass,\nand lay it on a perfectly level table. With a\nbrush dipped in the size flood the glass over, and.\nthen with a tip carefully lay on the gold leaf,\nwhich will instantly adhere to it. Then place\nthe glass on its edge to dry, and leave it for\ntwenty-four hours. On a piece of paper draw\nthe required pattern, and with a pricker pierce\nholes along the outline. Then lay this on the\ngold surface, and dust some powdered whiting\nover it, so that it may penetrate the holes, and\nleave the pattern on the gold underneath.\nCarefully remove the paper, and fill in the out-\nlines of the design with gold size, mixed with\norange chrome and thinned with boiled oil and\nturpentine. When quite dry, remove the sur-\nplus gold with a piece of cotton wool dipped in\nwater, and back the glass with the ground\ncolor.\n2. First sketch on paper the exact size and\nshape of the figures or letters required then\nprick holes (in the outlines) through the paper\nwith a pin take the paper and cover the glass\non the front side with it now dust the paper\nover with whiting, so that it goes through the\nholes in the paper on to the glass remove the\npaper, and coat the back of the glass with gum\nsize, and before the gum is dry take gold*leaf\nand place it on the gum size, so that the leaf\ncovers the dust marks on the glass. Do not be\nparticular about the shape of the gold leaf then;\nonly see that the letters are covered. When\ndry, paint the exact shape of the letters on the\nback of the gold leaf with gold size, to which\nhas been added some chrome yellow. When\nperfectly dry, take a little cotton wool and\nwater and wash off all the superfluous gold leaf.\nYou can then shade or back the letters with any\ncolor.\n3. Make a mixture of powdered gold, borax,\nand gum arabic in water, and brush the device","height":"4343","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0710.jp2"},"703":{"fulltext":"Ola**.\n691\nInk*.\nupon the glass, earthenware, or porcelain with\na hair pencil dipped in the above mixture; then\nexpose the article to heat in an oven or fur-\nnace, by which means the gum is consumed and\nthe borax vitrified, cementing the gold to the\nglass or earthenware, after which it may be\nburnished.\n4. Breathe on the glass, apply the gold leaf,\nthen hold a hot iron at the back a small distance\noff till all the moisture is dried out it will then\nassume a bright appearance. Then immediately\npaint on the back of it, or it will get dim. By\nthis process no size, or anything of the kind, is\nneeded, but only a little dexterity.— English\nMechanic.\nGlass, to Coat Metal Surface* with.\n—The following method has been suggested\nfor coating metal surfaces with glass, which\nmay be found to answer various purposes.\nTake about 125 parts, by weight, of ordinary\nHint glass fragments, 20 parts of sodium car-\nbonate, and 12 parts of boric acid, and melt.\nPour the fused mass out upon some cold sur-\nface, as of stone or metal, and pulverize\nwhen cool. Make a mixture of this powder\nwith silicate of soda (water-glass) solution of\n50° B, With this coat the metal to be glazed,\nand heat in a muffle or other furnace until it\nhas fused. This coating is said to adhere very\nfirmly to steel or iron.\nGlass, to Write on. See Inks.\nGlass, to Drill. See Hardening.\nGlue.— Le Page s Liquid Glue.— In 1887 the\nstatement was made in this journal that James\nK. Pringle, Gloucester, Mass., patented a pro-\ncess for the manufacture of chlorine and glue\nfrom salted fish skins, consisting in treating\nthe latter with sulphuric acid and manganese\ndioxide and water, whereby chlorine is liberat-\ned, while the glue is obtained from the residue\nby expression. A correspondent of another\npharmaceutical journal, residing at Gloucester,\nhas made the statement that several thousand\npounds of the skins of the cod and cusk are\nannually consumed by the above firm, and ex-\npresses the opinion that the glue is produced\nby boiling the skins, deprived of their salt,\nwith water and then concentrating the liquid\nresulting. But, something else besides is re-\nquired and as Le Page s glue contains no acid,\nthe preservative may possibly be alcohol or\nboric acid. Western Druggist.\nHair, Preparations for the.— Baldness,\nLotions for. Dr. Tom Robinson, who has made\ndiseases of the hair a special study, recom-\nmends for baldness occurring in young ladies\nand premature baldness in men the following\nwashes. The alkaline lotion is to be used for a\nweek, and afterward the acid one. The rub-\nbing must be done with a piece of flannel or\nsponge\nAlkaline. Borax, 1 drm.; glycerine, 2 drm.;\ntincture of cantharides, 6 drm.; solution of\nammonia, 1 oz.; essential oil of bay, 4 drops\nwater, to 6 oz. Mix.\nAcid. Aromatic vinegar, 2 drm.; glycerine,\n2 drm.; rectified spirits, 1 oz.; blistering liquid,\nB. P., 1 drm.; orange flower water, 2 oz.; rose\nwater, to 6 oz. Mix.\nElixir of Pepsin and Bismuth. (Liquor Pepsin\net Bismuthi. Pure pepsin, 128 gr.; citric acid,\n120 gr.; bismuth ammonio-citrate, 128 gr.;\nstronger white wine, 8 fl. oz.; spirit of orange,\n2fl. drm.; sugar, 4 troy oz.; water of ammonia\nand water, of each a sufficient quantity.\nDissolve the citric acid in 4 fl. oz. of water,\nand rub up the pepsin with this solution add\nthe wine, and gently warm at a temperature of\nnot over 100° F. until the pepsin is dissolved.\nDissolve the ammonio-citrate of bismuth in 1\nfl. oz. of water, with the aid of a few drops of\nammonia water, and add this solution to the\npepsin solution, and then gradually add am-\nmonia water until the solution becomes per-\nfectly clear and neutral, or very slightly alka-\nline. Now add the sugar, spirit of orange, and\nsufficient water to make 16 oz. Filter if neces-\nsary.\nThis preparation contains 1 gr. each of sac-\ncharated pepsin and ammonio-citrate of bis-\nmuth to the fluid drm.— G. M. Beringer, in Am.\nJour. Pharm.\nBarber s Itch.— (New Idea.)— 1. Resorcin, 1 oz.;\nglycerin, 1 oz.; water, 1 oz.; lac sulphur, V/%\noz.; cologne, y oz.; alcohol, 4 oz.\nApply several times a day with a soft sponge.\nBathe the parts every morning with hot water.\nTo make the preparation more pleasant dis-\nsolve the sulphur in 3^ oz. ether before adding\nto the mixture.\n2. (C. W. Moister.) Resorcin, V/% drm.; gly-\ncerine, 3 drm.; rose water, y% oz.; lac sulphur,\noz.; triple ext. lavender, y% oz.; bay rum, q. s.\nto make 4 oz. Mix. Apply to parts affected\nwith a soft sponge twice a day.\nBay Rum After Shave. 1 Bay rum, 3 pt.;\ngl5 T cerine, Yz pt.; extract violet, y oz.; rose\nwater, y% pt. Mix and filter if necessary.\nTo Color Hair Oil Bed, or Crimson.— Steep 2\nor 3 drm. alkanet root in each pint of oil. By\nwarming the oil the time may be shortened to\none or two hours.\nMustache Wax, Hungarian. (Druggists 1 Circu-\nlar.)— Spermaceti, 5 parts wax, 20 parts; water,\n50 parts; gum arabic, 15 parts; soap, 10 parts;\nglycerine, 5 parts.\nThe soap is to be finely shaved and the gum\narabic pulverized. Both are then stirred up\nwith 20 parts of water to a homogeneous paste.\nThe spermaceti and the wax are heated with\nthe remainder of the water on a water bath\nand stirred carefully into the gum and soap\npaste. Lastly the glycerine is added, drop by\ndrop. Perfumery is added to suit the taste,\nand if a brown color is desired, umber is mixed\nwith the glycerine. For black, use lamp black.\nShaving Cream. 1. Castile soap, 1 oz.; rose\nwater, 4 oz.; oil of almonds, J^j oz.; theobroma\noil, y^, oz.; tincture of benzoin, 1 drm.: oil of\nrose geranium, 5 drops oil of bitter almonds,\n5 drops glycerine, q. s.\nDigest the soap and water on a water bath,\nadd the two fixed oils (previously melted to-\ngether), and incorporate the tincture. Finally,\nadd the perfumes and enough glycerine to\nbring to the proper consistence.\n2. Cream d amande, 30 parts oil of almonds,\n50 parts glycerine, 150 parts rectified spirit,\n150 parts oil of rose geranium, 3^ parts oil\nof bergamot, 3^ parts oil of neroli, 3 parts\noil of citronella, 3^6 parts; distilled water, 725\nparts; mix.— British and Col. Druggist.\nHardening,— DHlls, to Harden.— Dissolve\nzinc in commercial muriatic acid to saturation.\nHeat the drill to a dull red and dip it in the zinc\nchloride solution formed as above described.\nThe solution should be made in the open air, as\nthe fumes are very corrosive.\nThe steel must not be overheated or over-\nworked, and the drill must be sharpened before\nhardening. Whenever it requires sharpening,\nit must be rehardened.\nTurpentine alone, or with camphor added, is\nused as a lubricant. Flat drills must be used\nfor dx*illing glass, hardened steel, and chill-\ned iron. A drill hardened in this manner will\nperforate glass nearly as readily as brass.\nHeading. See Beverages.\nInks.— Copying Ink,Violet.— Dissolve 40 parts\nof extract of logwood, 5 of oxalic acid, and 30\nparts of sulphate of aluminum, without heat,\nin 800 parts of distilled water and 10 parts of\nglycerine; let stand twenty f our hours;\nthen add a solution of 5 parts of potassium\nbichromate in 100 parts of distilled water, and\nagain set aside for twenty-four hours. Now\nraise the mixture once to boiling in a bright\ncopper boiler, mix with it, while hot, 50 parts of\nwood vinegar, and, when cold, put into bottles.\nAfter a fortnight decant it from the sediment.","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0711.jp2"},"704":{"fulltext":"Inks.\n69;i\nInks.\nIn thin layers, this ink is reddish violet; it\nwrites dark violet, and furnishes bluish violet\ncopies.\nEraser for Ink. A blotter can be made that\nwill remove ink spots from paper. Take a\nthick blotting paper and steep it several times\nin a solution of oxalic acid or oxalate po-\ntassium. While the ink spot is still moist ap-\nply the prepared blotter, and the ink will be\nentirely removed.\nFalsified Writing.— Gobert has found that if\nwriting- is ever so carefully scratched out there\nare still left sufficient traces of the oxide of\niron in the ink to become visible in a photo-\ngraphic copy. Light reflected from paper that\nhas not been written on acts in a different way\non the photographic materials from that re-\nflected from places which have been once\ncovered with ink.\nForgeries.— If a forger has used a different\nink to that used by the original writer of the\ndocument, his error can be made manifest in\nthe following manner Get nine J^ oz. or 1 oz.\nvials and fill separately with (1) dilute sulphuric\nacid; (2) concentrated hydrochloric acid; (3)\ndilute nitric acid (4) solution of sulphurous\nacid (5) solution of caustic soda (6) concen-\ntrated solution of oxalic acid 7) solution of\nchloride of lime (8) solution of tin crystals\n(9) solution of protochloride of tin. Take\nnine quill pens, each one for its particular re-\nagent. Now, with a rule, draw lines crossing-\noriginal and suspected portions the difference\nwill show itself at a glance. Chem. Rev.\nGlass, Writing on, with Common or Indian\nInks.— Warm the glass from 120° to 140° F., until\nvapor is no longer deposited. Then bathe the\nsurface with the following varnish, moving the\nplate as when applying collodion in photo-\ngraphic work. The varnish consists of 80 grm.\n95$ alcohol, 5 grm. mastic in sheets, and 8 grm.\ndammar. The solution is made in a firmly\ncorked bottle on the water bath, and then\nfiltered. This varnish is very hard, brilliant,\nand transparent. Drawings in common or\nIndian ink can be made on this surface. After\ncompletion, a thin layer of gum is added. This\nmethod can be used for marking bottles, de-\nsigns for projecting on a screen, or for photo-\ngraphic purposes.\nGold, Silver, and Copper Ink.— Take honey, 1\ndrm.; alcohol, 1 drm mucilage, 1 oz.; water, 8\noz.; bronze, 1 oz. Rub the honey, alcohol and\nmucilage together in a mortar, then add the\nwater. To be shaken before using.\nGold Indelible Ink. The Prague Rundschau\ngives the following 1. Chloride of gold and\nsodium, 1 part water, 10 parts gum, 2 parts.\n2. Oxalic acid, 1 part water, 5 parts gum, 2\nparts.\nThe cloth or stuff to be written on should be\nmoistened with liquid No. 2. Let dry and then\nwrite upon the prepared space with liquid No.\n1, using preferably a quill pen. Pass a hot iron\nover the mark, pressing heavily.\nMarking Ink. Blue.— Silver nitrate, 4 grm.;\nammonia, 12 grm.; sodium carbonate, 4 grm.;\npowdered gum arabic, 6 grm.; cupric sulphate,\n20 grm.; distilled water, 16 grm. Dissolve the\nsilver salt in the ammonia, and the soda, gum,\nand copper salt in the distilled water, and mix\nthe two solutions.— Dorvault.\nFor Marking Bales.— Shellac, 2 oz.; borax, 2\noz,; water, 25 oz.; gum arabic, 2 oz.; Venetian\nred, sufficient to color.\nRibbon Ink.— Vaseline or petrolatum oint-\nment of high melting point. Melt by the aid\nof gentle heat. Add as much lamp black as\npossible without granulation. While cooling,\nadd mixture of equal parts of turpentine and\nbenzol till of the consistency of fresh paint.\nApply to the ribbon with a brush. Used for\nstamping railway tickets. For the method of\ninking type writer ribbons, see page 285.\nStamping Ink.— Indelible.— E. Johanson, St.\nPetersburg, gives the formula for a convenient\nink for marking clothing by means of a stamp:\n22 parts carbonate of soda are dissolved in 85\nparts glycerine, and triturated with 20 parts\ngum arabic. In a small flask are dissolved 11\nparts nitrate of silver in 20 parts officinal water\nof ammonia. The two solutions are then mixed\nand heated to boiling. After the liquid has\nacquired a dark color, 10 parts Venetian tur-\npentine are stirred into it. The quantity of\nglycerine may be varied to suit the size of the\nletters. After stamping, expose to the sun or\napply a hot iron.— Pharm. Bee.\nPolygraphia— (1) 10 parts violet de Paris, 30\nparts water (Lebaigue). (2) 1 part violet de\nParis, 7 parts water, 1 part alcohol (Kwaysser\nand Husak). (3) 2 parts acetate of rosan iline,\n10 parts water, 1 part alcohol (Kwaysser and\nHusak). The first two produce a violet, the\nlast a red copy.\nAn indorsing ink, which does not dry quick-\nly on the pad, and is quickly taken by the\npaper, can be obtained by the following recipe:\nAniline color in solid form (blue, red, etc.), 16\nparts; 80 parts boiling distilled water, 7 parts\nglycerine, and 3 parts syrup. The color is dis-\nsolved in hot water, and the other ingredients\nare added while agitating. This indorsing ink\nis said to obtain its good quality by the addition\nof the syrup.— Pap. Zeit.\nWhite Ink for Marking Lantern Slides— JJse or-\ndinary Chinese white for marking lantern slides,\nor the following solution can be employed for\nwriting on the film: Potassium iodide, 10\nparts; water, 30 parts; iodine, 1 part; gum\narabic, 1 part. Use an ordinary pen, writing\non the dark portions of the film. The solu-\ntion converts the silver into silver iodide, thus\nproducing white letters on a black or dark\nground.\nGrind zinc white (oxide of zinc) with water\ntill quite smooth, and add a little clean gum\narabic, enough to give it a body and bind it.\nTry 4 parts of picked gum to 120 parts of\nwater, adding enough zinc to give good bril-\nliant white.\nThe following is an excellent formula Chi-\nnese white, 1 oz.; isinglass, 2 drm.; alcohol, 1\ndrm.; water, q. s.\nSoak the isinglass in a little water until soft,\nthen heat on a water bath until dissolved.\nWhen thoroughly dissolved mix into a paste\nwith the Chinese white, well stirring it around\nwith a piece of stick. When well mixed, add\nwater in small quantities, well stirring at each\naddition, and trying it with a clean steel pen\nuntil it writes satisfactorily, then add the alco-\nhol; or use: Barium sulphate, loz.; isinglass,\n2 drm.; water, q. s.; mix as above.\nThe worst of all white inks is that they rub\noff when touched. This can only be prevented\nby giving the writing a protective coating of\nvarnish. The best to use for the purpose is\nthat known as water varnish it can be\nbought at most photo, dealers, or made by boil-\ning: Shellac, 16 oz.; borax, 3 oz.; water, 3 pt.,\ntogether until dissolved. When thoroughly\ndissolved may be thinned with water if too\nthick.— Photography.\nWriting Inks. Writing inks can be made\nequally well from galls and tannin, but inks\nmade from galls are preferable for copying\npurposes, as they have much greater body,\nowing to the extractive matter derived from\nthe galls. The following formulas are taken\nfrom notes by Dieterich, quoted by the Phar-\nmaceutische Centralhalle. The peculiarity of the\nfirst set of formulas is that they start from the\nextract of galls and solution of tannin, to\nwhich, after filtration, a definite amount of\nferric chloride solution is added, and, after\nstanding three weeks, these ferrated solutions\nare filtered. We shall call these ferrated solu-\nlutions gall basis and tannin basis re-\nspectively. They really are the ink, but it is\nnecessary to add coloring matter to make the","height":"4343","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0712.jp2"},"705":{"fulltext":"Ink*.\nC93\nJapan uers.\nwriting visible. On exposure to the air, the\nwriting becomes black. Chinese galls are pre-\nferable to oak galls for ink making, as they\ncontain most extractive matter.\nTo make the gall extract, reduce 6 oz. of Chi-\nnese galls to No. 20 powder, and digest in a pint\nof water for 12 hours. Strain, press the marc\nand digest it again in 12 ounces of water for 12\nhours, repeating the pressure at the end of this\ntime. Now add to the strained liquors 5 drm.\npowdered French chalk. Set aside in a cold\nplace for 24 hours, then filter, washing the filter\nwith as much water as will make the filtrate\nmeasure 30 oz.\nTannin Solution.— This is made by dissolving\n3 oz. of commercial tannin (it need not be the\npurified medicinal kind) in sufficient water to\nmake 30 oz. of solution.\nGall Basis.— To 10 oz. of the gall extract add 1\noz. of 10 solution of ferric chloride, made by\ndissolving the salt in distilled water. Allow\nthe mixture to stand in a corked bottle for\nthree weeks, and filter.\nTannin Basis. Made in the §ame way, using\n10 oz. of the tannin solution and 1 oz. of iron\nsolution.\nBlue-Black Office Ink.— Gum arabic, )4 oz.;\naniline water blue, I B, 75 gr.; glycerine, 1 fi.\ndrm.; water, 12J4 oz.\nMix these with 18 oz. of gall basis or the same\nof tannin basis, and set aside in a closed vessel\nfor a few weeks to clear. Then fill into small\nbottles, preferably stone bottles, so as to keep\naway from the light.\nThis ink writes a beautiful blue color, dries\nvery readily on the paper, and changes to a\ngood blue- black. It is of good quality, and is\nwell liked. It is not a copying ink.\nA red-black ink which is identical with the\nabove in quality, only that it writes red,\nchanges to a reddish-brown, and finally to a\ndeep brown-black, can be made by using 150\ngr. of Ponceau B B (a red aniline color) in place\nof the aniline water blue. The following colors\nmay also be obtained\nViolet-black.— Mix together 2 parts of the\nred-black and 3 parts of the blue-black inks.\nGreen-black. —Omit the aniline water blue\nfrom the blue-black formula, and use 150 gr. of\naniline green D.\nBlue Green-black.— Mix together 2 parts of\nblue-black and 3 parts of green-black. A nice\ncolor is also obtained by adding 8 to 15 gr. of\naniline green to the blue-black ink.\nDeep Black.— Omit the aniline water blue\nand use in its place 5 drm. of aniline deep\nblack E.\nCopying Inks.— The following are made with\nthe same bases as the foregoing\nKing s Copying Ink— Gall basis, 24 oz.; aniline\nwater blue, I B, 150 gr.; glycerine, 2 fl. drm.;\ngum arabic, 5 drm. sugar, 150 gr.; water, 8 oz.\nMix and ,set aside for a few weeks as above\ndirected.\nA ruby ink is made by using 150 gr. of Pon-\nceau R R in place of aniline water blue. Both\nthe inks and the copies ultimately turn jet\nblack. Other colors are obtained with aniline\ngreen D, 150 gr.; deep black E, |5 drm.; and\nindigo-carmine, 150 gr. each, in place of the ani-\nline blue.\nInk Extracts.^The following quantities are\nintended for a wine bottle of rain water.\nThe powder is to be added to the water, and the\nmixture gently boiled for from 15 to 20 min-\nutes, and when cold the ink should be bottled\nand set aside for four weeks before using\nPlain. Copying.\nTannin 1 oz. 9 drm.\nDried sulphur of iron 3*/£ drm. 4 drm.\nGum arabic 76 gr. 2 drm.\nSugar 40 gr. 75 gr.\nAniline water blue, IB.... 40 gr. 75 gr.\nOther colors may take the place of the aniline\nblue as in the preceding formulas. Chemistand\nDruggixt.\nIvory, New Imitation.— 1. One of the\ndisadvantages of celluloid is the fact that it\nburns very readily when a flame is applied;\nbut a new compound, said to be fireproof, and\nsuitable as a substitute for ivory, is thus made.\nA solution is prepared of two hundred parts of\ncasein in fifty parts of ammonia and four hun-\ndred of water, or one hundred and fifty parts\nof albumen in four hundred of water. To the\nsolution the following are adde,d: Quicklime,\n240 parts; acetate of alumina, 1*50 parts; alum,\n50 parts; sulphate of lime, 1,200 parts; oil,\n10U parts. The oil is to be mixed in last. When\ndark objects are to be made, from 75 to 100\nparts of tannin are to be substituted for the\nacetate of alumina. When the mixture has\nbeen well kneaded together, and made into a\nsmooth paste, it is passed through rollers to\nform plates of the desired shape. These are\ndried and pressed into metallic moulds previ-\nously heated, or they may be reduced to a very\nfine powder, which is introduced into heated\nmoulds and submitted to a strong pressure. The\nobjects are afterward dipped into the follow-\ning bath: Water, 100 parts white glue, 1 part;\nphosphoric acid, 10 parts. Finally, they are\ndried, polished, and varnished with shellac.\n2. Lactite is the name of the new product\nwhich hails from Norway, and is said to have\nfor the starting point of its materials the arti-\ncle known as skim milk. It is readily combined\nwith various coloring matters, and is said to\nanswer well as a substitute for ivory or cellu-\nloid, and is being adopted for similar purposes.\nJapan, Black, Substitute for. Mix\nrefined lamp-black with fine, quick-drying fur-\nniture varnish in sufficient quantity to give\nthe varnish the requisite covering quality.\nStrain through cheese cloth. Apply witn a soft\nvarnish brush. Allow it to dry for a day or so\nin a warm room tree from dust.\nJapanners Gold Size.— Gum animi and\nasphaltum each 1 oz.; red lead, yellow litharge\nand umber, each V/% oz. Reduce to a fine pow-\nder, mix and put them with a pound of linseed\noil into a pipkin, and boil gently, constantly\nstirring until thoroughly incorporated. on-\ntinue the boiling until it becomes as thick as\ntar, as it cools. Strain through flannel, and\nkeep for use, carefully stopped up. When\nwanted, grind with as much vermilion as will\ngive it an opaqueness, and dilute sufficiently\nwith oil of turpentine to work freely with a\npencil. Or, take linseed oil, 1 lb.; gum animi, 4\noz. Boil the oil, and add gradually the gum\nanimi finely powdered, until dissolved. Let the\nmixture boil to the consistence of tar on cool-\ning, then strain while warm through a coarse\ncloth for use. Previous to being used, it must\nbe mixed with vermilion and oil of turpentine,\nas above. This size may be used on almost any\nsubstance, and no preparation of the work is\nnecessary, beyond having an even and per-\nfectly clean surface.\nTo Use the Size.— Put a proper quantity pre-\npared as above into a saucer. Then spread it\nwith a brush over the surface to be gilt, or\ndraw with it, by means of a pencil, the designs\nintended, carefully avoiding to touch any other\nparts. Let it remain until fit to receive the\ngold, which is to be determined in the same\nmanner as in oil gilding, by the finger. Then\ngo over the work with a soft camel s hair pen-\ncil. The whole being covered, it must be left\nto dry, and then the loose powder lightly brush-\ned off. When gold leaf is used, the method of\nsizing is the same, but the operation requires\nmore nicety. There are various sorts of gold\npowders— pure gold powder, Dutch, mosaic,\netc., any of which can be procured at the\nartists color shops ready for use. AVhen the\nwhole has been gilt, any parts uncovered may\nbe repaired by wetting with a camel s hair\npencil, and covering the part with gold, avoid-\ning, as much as possible, touching the perfect\ngilding, as it frequently causes it to turn black.","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0713.jp2"},"706":{"fulltext":"Lacquers.\n694\nMieagraphy\nLacquers.— Brassoline.— A hard, brilliant,\ntransparent lacquer for brushing or dipping.\nIt will not cloud, however damp atmosphere,\nand rnay be worned even in a draught. The\nmetal need not be heated when the brassoline\nis applied, nor need the goods af terward be\nsubjected to heat. It is excellent as a dip lac-\nquer, as it runs off more freely than other lac-\nquers. All brush marks smooth out in drying,\nthus allowing of excellent work being done by\na novice. The loss from evaporation is one-\nquarter less than in other lacquers, which ren-\nders its use a matter of economy. It will not\nshow chalky scratch marks when goods coated\nwith it are subjected to considerable handling.\nMade by Celluloid Zapon Co.\nbottle Lacquer.— Black Lacquer for Coating\nBottles.— Bottles, or other glass vesseis, which\nit is desired to make impervious to light, may\nbe coated, according to Ferd. Simand, with a\nblack lacquer prepared in the following man-\nner: Equal parts of asphalt and of boiled lin-\nseed oil are heated for one hour over a naked\nfire to about 200° C. (392° F.) then a sufficient\nquantity of lamp-black, previously triturated\nwith oil of turpentine, is added, to make a\nmixture, which, when mixed with 34~Hs its vol-\nume of oil of turpentine, will cover well.\nUsually, one coat is sufficient in special cases,\ntwo coats may be required.\nEnameloid. A variety of zapon.\nFerroline.—A lacquer for iron and steel bears\nthis name and is a variety of zapon.\nGold Lacquer. —Lac in grains, 180 grm. melted\namber, 60 grm.; gamboge, 6 grm.; extract of\nred sandal wood, 1 grm.; dragon s blood, 35\ngrm.; saffron, 2 grm.; powdered glass, 2 grm.;\nalcohol, 2 grm. For general directions for pre-\nparing lacquers, see page 296.\nLetherole.—A pliable elastic finish for fine\nleather. An elastic coating for leather that will\nwear, and that imparts a soft semi-lustrous\nfinish, has long been desired but not hitherto\nobtained. It is especially desirable for seaside\nor outing shoes, as it changes the color of rus-\nset and other light leathers very little, and\nmakes them waterproof and elastic, and conse-\nquently more durable. A specialty of the Cel-\nluloid Zapon Co.\nLustrine.— Lustrine is a brilliant, transparent\nlacquer, which can be applied cold, by any of\nthe ordinary methods employed by lacquerers,\nand dried without heat. It is recommended\nfor every variety of metal castings, such as\ngas cocks, lamp bases, etc., and for bright\ndipped work, such as curtain rings, pole ends,\nkerosene burners, statuettes, and sheet metal\nwork. Lustrine will effectually protect any\nwork from the action of the atmosphere but\nis net recommended for burnished surfaces or\nfor articles which are designed to be continu-\nally handled. A special preparation of the\nCelluloid Zapon Co., New York.\nOpaline.— This is a hard, transparent and\nwaterproof lacquer, and is air-drying. It may\nbe classed as a variety of zapon.\nSilvered Articles, to Lacquer.— The parts are\npreviously protected by a coating of whites of\neggs, and the lacquer applied as usual when the\nsizing of egg is dry.\nTin, to Lacquer.— This is done the same way\nas brass, only, as the lacquer is of a deeper\ncolor, it does not require so many coats.\nZapon.— A substitute for lacquer.— Zapon has\nthe following points of superiority over lac-\nquer: 1. It is much harder; being more\nproperly an enamel than a lacquer. 2. It is so\nsmooth and hard that it cannot be detected on\nthe metal. 3. It does not soften in any climate,\nand does not show scratches as lacquer does.\n4. Fly specks go through lacquer and make\nlarge blotches on metal; zapon prevents this,\nand fly specks are readily removed by washing.\n5. It is a thorough protection against damp\nair, whether salt or fresh. Made by Celluloid\nZapon Co.\nMagnolia Metal. See Alloys.\nManganine. See Alloys.\nMarble. Artificial. According to M.\nMaard, artificial marble may be produced in the\nfollowing manner Ten parts of burnt gyp-\nsum and one part of alum are mixed together\nin a little water. This is then calcined and\nafterward reduced to a powder. To 25 parts\nof the powder is added 22 parts of talc, 5 parts\nof magnesium chloride, 44 parts of clay, and\nI part of potassic alum. This mixture can be\nworked, polished, or painted similar to marble.\nMastics. See Cements.\nMatches. —Matches without Phosphorus.\n—The following is the same as the well known\nIT. and P. matches and does not require a sepa-\nrate rubber or prepared surface: Potassium\nchlorate, 26 oz.; manganese, black oxide, 25 oz.;\npotassium bichromate, 20 oz.; lead cyanide,\n20 oz.; antimony oxysulphide, 20 oz.; glass\npowder, 4 oz.\nThese substances are first powdered sepa-\nrately and then gradually mixed into a solu-\ntion of 1 lb. gum in 4 lb. water, to form a thick,\nsmooth paste; with this paste the dry wood\nsplinters are tipped, and after about eighteen\nhours exposure to the air in a drying room,\nkept at about 80° Fah., the matches are ready\nfor boxing. To render the matches non-absor-\nbent of moisture or waterproof, they are mo-\nmentarily dipped into a liquid composed of\nShellac, best white, 1 lb.; alcohol, or wood naph-\ntha, 1 qt., digested together in a closed vessel\nfor several days with occasional agitation,\nthen strained through fine linen cloth. Use\nred lead to color.\nMatting.— Matting gives a pleasing varia-\ntion to gilding or silvering when the work is\nquite dry, the process may be carried out as\nfollows Take a little vermilion ground up with\nwhite of egg and red lead, or yellow ocher and\nred lead mixed with parchment size, or the\nterra di Sienna slightly burnt, and mixed with\na small proportion of red lead apply with a\ncamel s hair pencil.\nMicagrapny.— This is the name given to a\nnew process of producing ornamental effects\non sheets of mica. The use made of this new\nprocess has been as yet confined to the orna-\nmentation of lamps and shop windows, but it\nmay be used as a cheap substitute for stained\nglass. The sheets of mica can be painted in any\nrequired manner, and the work preserved, it is\nsaid, by means of a varnish, or the painting\nmay be fixed like enamel on the mica by the\nuse of different pigments and the aid of a fur-\nnace, the pieces .of painted mica being after-\nward fixed, with the colored side within, on\nthe glass of the windows. This is the mode of\nproceeding: After the mica is split into lamime\nand trimmed into shape, it is glued down upon\ncardboard to be polished and printed. The for-\nmer operation is performed by means of a\nsoft rubber moistened with a solution of soap\nor sulphuric acid extremely diluted with gurn\nwater: the printing is performed in the ordinary\nmanner or by transfer, in order to present the\ndesign in the natural position, so as to be seen\nby transparency. Opaqueness is produced by\na previous coat of varnish or a metallic ground\nobtained by means of leaf or powder. The\ncolors are laid on as in illuminated works, and\nthe ordinary pigments may be employed, and\nafterward covered with a transparent spirit\nvarnish, or, as before stated, enamel colors may\nbe used and the sheets passed through the fire.\nIt is admitted, however, that in the latter case\none great advantage of the process, namely,\ncheapness, is in a great measure sacrified.\nWhen the ornamentation is completed, the\nmica is removed from the card and fixed on\nglass, or any other substance, by means of a\nsolution of gum sandarac and mastic in potash","height":"4343","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0714.jp2"},"707":{"fulltext":"Nickel.\n695\nPercentage.\nand alcohol. It is said that, with ordinary care,\nthe junction of the pieces of mica in a mosaic\nor other work is quite imperceptible, so that,\nin the case of a painted window, there is no\nother limit but the size of the glass on which\nthe mica is fixed.— English Mechanic.\nNickel, to Render Malleable. Mag-\nnesium is a useful addition to cobalt and nickel\nwhen put into the fused metals in proportion\nof one-eighth per cent. Nickel with this small\nproportion of magnesium is stated to become\nductile and malleable, while cobalt loses its\ncolor and becomes whiter than nickel itself.\nBoth metals at white heat can be made to ad-\nhere firmly to iron or steel.\nNails, Polish for Finger.— Peroxide of\ntin (putty powder) 6 oz.; tragacanth, in powder,\n6gr.; glycerine, 4*drm.; rose water, q. s. Mix\nand make into a paste. Color with ammoni-\nacal carmine solution.\nPaint.— Anti-corrosion. An anti-corrosion\npaint for iron. If 1U# of burnt magnesia, or\neven baryta or strontia, is mixed cold with\nordinary linseed oil paint, and then enough\nmineral oil to envelop the alkaline earth, the\nfree acid of the paint will be neutralized, while\nthe iron will be protected by the permanent\nalkaline action of the paint. Iron to be buried\nin damp earth may be painted with a mixture\nof 100 parts of rosin (colophony), 25 of gutta-\npercha, and 50 of paraffin, to which 20 of mag-\nnesia and some mineral oil have been added.—\nNeueste Erfind.\nBlackboard Covering, Bergmann l s. Prussian\nt»lue, chrome green, equal parts; gilder s sizing,\nalcohol, equal parts, sufficient.\nMix the powders and add sufficient of the\nliquid to the consistency of cream. Use large,\nstiff brush cover quickly. In an hour s time\ngive second coat. In a day or two smooth the\nsurface with hair cloth.\nThis formula is communicated by Mr. C. H.\nBergmann, principal of a Charleston, S. C,\nschool, to the Scientific American, and he claims\nperfection for it. It gives a velvety surface\nwhich will never look gray, as that made with\nlamp-black.\nLuminous Paint in all Colors. A German\ncontemporary gives the following series of re-\nceipts for these paints, which may prove use-\niul. All of these paints can be used in the\nmanufacture of colored papers, etc., if the\nvarnish is altogether omitted and the dry mix-\ntures are ground to a paste with water. The\nluminous paints can also be used as wax colors\nfor painting on glass and similar objects, by\nadding, instead of the varnish, 10$ more of\nJapanese wax and one-fourth the quantity of\nthe latter of olive oil. The wax colors pre-\npared in this way may also be used for paint-\ning upon porcelain, and are then carefully\nburned without access of air. Paintings of\nthis kind can also be treated with water glass.\nVarnish\no\nto\nj3\na3\no\n46\n17 5\n1\n1-5\n38\nz\n5\n48\n10\ns\n48\n10\nd\n3\n42\n102\no\n42\n10-2\n£5.\nO\n4\n6\n4ft\nBarium sulphate\nIndian yellow\n10\nMadder lake\nLuminous calcium\nsulphide\n34\n8\n34\n8\n46\n36\n54\n34\nBarium chromate.\nChrom. oxide green..\nCobalt blue,\n5 4\n2-8\n9\n(5\n6-5\nUltamarine violet\nCobaltous arseniate\nCalcium carbonate.\nZinc sulphide, gray.\nAuri pigment\n8\nLuminous colors for artists are prepared by\nusing pure East India poppy oil, in the same\nquantity, instead of the varnish, and taking-\nparticular pains to grind the materials as fine\nas possible.\nFor luminous oil color paints, equal quantities\nof pure linseed oil are used in place of the var-\nnish. The linseed oil must be cold pressed and\nthickened by heat.\nPotato Paint. Boil 1 kilo of peeled potatoes\nin water after mashing dilute with water, and\npass through a fine sieve. Add 2 kilos of Span-\nish white diluted with 4 kilos of Avater. and the\nresult will be a color of a beautiful milk white.\nThis paint may be colored by ochers, etc. Ap-\nply with a brush.— Trade Review.\n[Not tested.— Ed.]\nPaper.— Pa inted Paper.— Unsized paper is\ncoated with an aqueous solution of dextrine.\nWhen this coat is dry, a layer of siccative oil\npaint is applied, and the sheet so obtained may\nbe used for packing purposes, to render fabrics\nimpermeable to water, etc.\nToughened Paper.— The French papers speak\nof a method of rendering paper extremely\nhard and tenacious by subjecting the pulp to\nthe action of chloride of zinc. After it has\nbeen treated with the chloride, it is submitted\nto a strong pressure, thereafter becoming as\nhard as wood and as tough as leather. The\nmaterial may be employed with advantage in\ncovering floors, and it will also be found excel-\nlent for large sheets of roofing. It has long\nbeen known that paper already manufactured\nacquues the same consistency when plunged\nunsized into a solution of the chloride.\nPastes.— Mounting Paste for Lantern Slides.\nFor attaching lantern slide bindings to the\nglass nothing is better than bichromated paste,\nwhich is used for attaching paper to glass in\nthe manufacture of electric machines, and\nwhich is a most useful paste for many purposes\nin damp climates. It is made as follows: Flour,\n2 teaspoonfuls; Avater, 4 oz.; bichromate of\npotash, 5 grains. The flour must be rubbed to\na smooth batter with the water, then placed in\na saucepan over a fire, and kept stirred till it\nboils. Add the bichromate slowly, stirring all\nthe time. Then stand to cool. This paste must\nbe kept in the dark and used as soon as pos-\nsible.\nSoak the paper in it, attach to the glass, and\nthen place in direct sunlight for a day. This\nsets up a chemical change in the bichromate\nand renders the paste insoluble.— M. V. Pott-\nman, Jour. Photo. Society of India.\nLabel Paste.— A good paste is made by soak-\ning flake tragacanth in sufficient cold water that\nthe brush will not sink into the paste when\nfinished. To prevent souring, add to the wa-\nter 2 grains of hydronaphthol (dissolved in a\nlittle alcohol) for each pint, and a few drops of\nclove oil for scent. To keep away the flies add\nsome oil of pennyroyal. Avoid, in making-\npastes, oil of wintergreen and carbolic acid,\nfor these produce a purplish discoloration by\ncontact with the tinned iron of the brush.\nPastilles. ScoWs Disinfecting. Wax, 50\nparts; sulphur, 20 parts; saltpeter, 10 parts;\ncharcoal in powder, 10 parts flour paste, 10\nparts plaster of Paris, a trace.\nPercentage Solutions. By Hans M.\nWilder. Pnar. Rec.)— Among the several stum-\nbling blocks for the younger pharmacists (and\nsome of the elder ones, too), at the prescrip-\ntion counter, the calculation of the correct\nproportion in grains and fluid ounces, by per-\ncentage, is none of the smallest in these days\nof hypodermic solutions, etc.\nThe best way (say for 1 fluid oz. of 15, of\ncourse is to weigh off 75 gr. of the salt, and\ndissolve it in 425 gr. of the fluid (generally dis-\ntilled water); after solution and filtration,\nmeasure off one fluid oz., and throw away the\nx*emainder.","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0715.jp2"},"708":{"fulltext":"Perfumes.\n696\nPhotography.\nThe following 1 table, however, is sufficiently\ncorrect for all practical purposes, though not\nabsolutely so, the pint having been valued at\n7200 grains, instead of 7291+\nPer cent. Distilled water to make one pint,\nithr (1:10,000) requires 07 (in round\nnumbers 1 grain).\nA (1=5000) requires 1*4 0Y 2 gr.\n-its (1:4000). requires 1*8 (2) gr.\naV (1:3000) requires 2 4 (2J$ gr.\n^e (1:2500) requires 2 9 (3) gr.\nA (1:2000) requires 3 6 (314) gr.\niV (1:1500) requires 4 8 (5) gr.\n(1:1000) requires 7 2 (7) gr.\n(1:500) requires 14 5 (14 gr.\n(1:400)\n(1:300)\ni (1:200)\n1 (1:100)\n2 (1:50)\n2^(1:40)\n3 (1:33)\n3J (1:30)\n4 (1:25)\n5 (1:20)\n10 (1:10)\n20 (1:5)\n50 (1:2)\nrequires 18 gr.\nrequires 24 gr.\nrequires 36 gr.\nrequires 72 gr.\nrequires 144 gr.\nrequires 180 gr.\nrequires 220 gr.\nrequires 240 gr.\nrequires 288 gr.\nrequires 350 gr.\nrequires 7*20 gr.\nrequires 1440 gr.\nrequires 3600 gr.\nPerfumes.— Frozen or Solid Perfumes.— In\nthe first place, the solid perfume is merely per-\nfumed hard paraffin. The hard paraffin is melt-\ned and perfumed at as low a temperature as\npossible, and for a mould use the lids of 2\narm. chip boxes.\nWhite Rose Solid Perfume.— Oil of geranium,\n3^drm.; oil of bergamot, drm.; oil of pat-\nchouli, 5 min.\nFrom 1 to 5 drops to each block may be\nused, according to the moderation or extrava-\ngance of the manufacturer.\nLavender Solid Perfume.— Oil of lavender,\n2 oz.; essence of bergamot, loz.; oil of cassia,\n5 min.; oil of geranium, 40 min.; oil of orange,\n5 min. Mix, and perfume the wax as before.\nBouquet Solid Perfume.— Oil of coriander,\n18 min.; oil of cloves, 2 drm.; oil of nutmeg, 1\ndrm.; oil of lavender, 3 drm.; oil of sandal, 1\ndrm.; oil of bergamot, 1 oz.; otto of rose,\ndrm.; oil of geranium, drm.; oil of orange,\n10 min. Mix.\nCologne Solid Perfume. Essence of berga-\nmot, 1 oz.; essence of lemon; 1 oz.; oil of cit-\nronella, y%, oz.; oil of neroli, y oz.; oil of rose-\nmary, 80 min.; oil of geranium, 10 min. Mix.\nZieliz, in Brit, and Col. Druggist.\nPhosphate Solution.— When acid phos-\nphates are asked for, it is but honest to supply\nthe article known as Horsford s. When not\nas specifically asked for, we learn that dilute\nphosphoric acid is sometimes used at others a\nsolution of which the following is an example:\nCompound Phosphate Solution.— Magnesium\ncarbonate, calcium carbonate, potassium bi-\ncarbonate, each 600 gr.; phosphoric acid (U. S.\nP.), 1011. oz.; water, to make 5 pt. Mix and\nfilter.\nThis solution, when added 1 to 2 fl. drm. to\nany of the f ruit syrups, will make an accept-\nable phosphatic beverage.\nOrange (or other) Phosphates.— Into a mineral\nwater (7 or 8 oz.) glass draw 1 to V/% oz. of the\nspecified fruit syrup, add I drm. dilute phos-\nphoric acid or phosphate solution, in another\nglass draw plain carbonic acid water and pour\ninto the first tumbler or glass to fill it, avoiding\nfoam. This is preferable to making a long line\nof varying fruit phosphate syrups.— Phar. Bee.\nPhotography.— Accelerator, the Excel-\nsior. This accelerator is of German origin.\nIt can be employed both with ferrous oxalate\nor pyrogallol. Zinc filings, 100 parts; water,\n500 parts; sulphuric acid, 50 parts.\nShake well and set aside for a few days. The\nvial should be well corked. Add then 250\nparts of sodium sulphite, set aside again for a\nfew days, and dilute with an equal volume of\nAmmonium sulphite, 250 parts; water, 500 parts.\nThis is the stock solution. If to be used\nwith pyrogallol, one should add 1 part of am-\nmonium sulphocyanate to 50 parts of it, or 4\nparts of ammonio-citrate of iron if employed\nwith ferrous oxalate.\nThese solutions keep for a long time in well\ncorked bottles.\nFor pyrogallol 2V£ p. 100 are added to the\ndeveloping solution and for ferrous oxalate 5\np. 100. A greater percentage produces yellow\nfog.\nIn the chemical action, which takes place in\nthe preparation of the accelerator, sodium\nhyposulphite (formerly hydrosulphite) is form-\ned, and to it is due the accelerating property.\nThe process is not new it is similar to that\npublished in 1877 by Mr. L. O. Sammann, for\nthe development of the luminous image on\ncollodion emulsion films.\nColored Photographic Prints, Formulas for\nMaking Different.— Mr. A. Lizzard, in Anthony s\nBulletin, gives a translation from a French\nwork on the different processes for producing-\nprints in various colors.\nProcess with nitrates of uranium and cop-\nper. By means of this process, which is as\nrapid as that of the salts of silver, prints of a\nbrown tone are obtained very warm, very\nagreeable and of an artistic stamp.\nThe sensitizing bath is composed of: A.\nUranium nitrate, 23 grm.; distilled water, 80\nc. c. B. Copper nitrate, 7 grm.; distilled water,\n80 c. c.\nMix these two solutions in a tray and im-\nmerse in it the gelatine sized paper, for about\ntwo minutes then dry it in the dark. The\npaper thus prepared will keep for a considera-\nble length of time, and it becomes also very\nleathery. The exposure to the sun requires\nnot longer than ten minutes, a weak image\nshowing in the printing frame. It is then de-\nveloped by immersing in a solution of Yellow\nprussiate of potash, 16 grm.; distilled water,\n700 c. c.\nThe image will instantly appear with a rich\nred brown tone, with metallic reflection and\nbronzed. When the immersion has been suffi-\ncient, the image will appear with a nearly equal\nintensity on both sides, because it is in the\nbody of the paper. By this means very fine\ntransparent pictures are easily obtained. As\nsoon as the print reaches the desired tone, wash\nit in pure water until the whites have become\nclear and pure, and all soluble salts eliminated;\nthen hang- it up to dry. No other fixing will\nbe necessary.\nIn place of the yellow prussiate bath, if one\nis used composed of 2 parts chloride of plati-\nnum to 100 parts water, the prints will be a\nbeautiful black.\nIn the same book is given a process with\nnitrate of silver and uranium which promises\nvery fine results. Float a sheet of paper on a\nsensitizing bath composed of the following:\nA. Uranium nitrate, 60 grm.; distilled water,\n50 c. c. B. Silver nitrate, 8 grm.; distilled water,\n50 c. c.\nMix the two solutions, float the paper for\ntwo or three minutes and hang it up to dry in\na dark room. Expose it under the negative\nand immerse in a bath composed of Proto-\nsulphate of iron, 16 grm.; tartaric acid, 8 grm.;\nsulphuric acid, a few drops; distilled water,\n200 c. c.\nThe development is very rapid and the print\nis fixed by washing in pure or rain water. The\nsensitiveness of this paper is so great that in\ndiffused light a print is visible and black in\neighteen seconds, and in half an hour before\na kerosene light of moderate size at five inches\ndistant from the flame. The process is very\nsimple, and the chemicals of the ordinary kind\nto be found in every well conducted dark\nroom.\nFaded Photographs.— Put the card in warm\nwater until the paper print may be removed","height":"4343","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0716.jp2"},"709":{"fulltext":"Photography.\n697\nPlaster.\nfrom the card backing- without injury. The\nprints can be restored by means of the follow-\ning- solutions a. Sodium tungstate, 100 parts;\nwater, 5000 parts, b. Precipitated chalk, 4 parts:\nbleaching powder (chloride of lime), 1 part;\nsodium aurochloride, 4 parts; distilled water,\n400 parts. Solution b is made in a well corked\nyellow glass bottle, is allowed to stand twenty-\nfour hours, and is then filtered into another\nyellow bottle. The faded prints are well wash-\ned, and placed in a mixture 1 to 2 parts of b\nand 40 parts of a. When the intensification\nis sufficient, the prints are immersed in a solu-\ntion of 1 part of hypo, in 10 parts of solution a\nuntil all yellowness has disappeared, and are\nthen well washed.\nLantern Slides, to Color.— Use transparent col-\nors, namely, Prussian blue, gamboge, carmine,\nverdigris, madder brown, indigo, crimson lake,\nand ivory black, with the semi-transparent col-\nors,raw and burnt sienna, and vandyke and cap-\npal brown, thinning oil colors with ordinary\nmegilp to a degree just sufficient for the pro-\nper working, and using for a medium for laying\non the first coat of water colors gelatine thor-\noughly dissolved and hot. When perfectly dry\nthis coat can be shaded and finished with water\ncolors mixed in the ordinary way with cold\nwater but the manipulation of the added col-\nors must be gentle, so as not to disturb the\nlayer first put on the glass. A thin coat of the\nbest mastic varnish heightens the effect of\nshades painted in water colors, but oil colors\nrequire no varnish.\nPhotographing on Wood, using Dry Plates\nGelatine, 2 drm.; white curd soap, 2 drm.;\nwater. 16 oz. Soak gelatine for some hours,\nthen dissolve in a bath of hot water. Add the\nsoap in small shavings, stir with a glass rod or\nslate pencil till completely mixed, then add\npowdered alum until the froth produced dis-\nappears strain through muslin. The block is\nnow coated with this mixture and a little zinc\nwhite, rubbed well into the wood, with the\nthinnest coating possible, and finished off\nsmoothly and evenly all over, and left to\ndry. It is then brushed over with the follow-\ning composition, a camel hair brush being used.\nIt is advisable to use a wide one, to prevent\nstreaks in the finished block Albumen, 1 oz.;\nwater, 6 drm.; ammonium chloride, 18 gr.;\neitric acid, 5 gr.\nBeat the albumen to froth and allow to set-\ntle, using the clean portion, add the water, then\nthe ammonium chloride, mixing well with rod\nfinally the acid. One coating with the brush\nfrom end to end of the block in one sweep is\nquite sufficient. When the block is dry pour\nover a small quantity of silver solution, made\nby dissolving nitrate of silver, 50 gr.; water,\ndistilled, 1 oz.\nMove the solution over the surface by the\naid of a glass rod, and pour off the surplus\ninto another bottle for filtering for further\nuse. When dry, print the block under a revers-\ned negative to just the depth you require, as\nthere is hardly any loss in the finishing. When\nprinted, hold the block face down in a dish of\nstrong salt and water for three minutes. This\nwill cause the print to fade a little. Wash un-\nder a spray of water, and fix in a saturated so-\nlution of hypo, by holding the block face\ndown on the bath for about five minutes this\nwill bring back all detail; finally wash for\nabout ten minutes, stand on end to dry the\nblock is then ready to be engraved. The pic-\nture may be toned, but this is not necessary.\nIn order to make the reversed negative it is\nonly needful to take the photograph through\nthe film, care being taken to have the glass\nquite clean. Another method would be— strip\nand turn the film by means of a solution of\nhydrofluoric acid. In case you make a nega-\ntive through the film, remember to turn the\nfocusing glass round.\nStains, Silver, to Remove.— Soak the plate for\nfive minutes in clean water meanwhile, make\na solution of potassium iodide, 20 gr. to an\nounce of water now put the plate in this so-\nlution, and let it stay for ten minutes. If the\nstain is very old, keep it in for half an hour.\nNow dissolve half drachm of cyanide of po-\ntassium in one ounce of water. Take the plate\nand put it into this, and gently rub the stains\nwith a tuft of cotton wool, free from grit, un-\ntil they are quite gone. If the stains are very\nold, make the solutions stronger, and soak for\na longer time.\nPlaster Casting.— (1) The model (of clay\nor otherwise) is first covered with a layer of\ngood plaster of Paris, mixed, or gauged,\nas plasterers call it, to the consistence of\nbatter, and colored with a little red or yellow\nocher. This layer should average about J4 in-\nthick. It is best applied with the pewter or\nmetal spoon used to mix the piaster with. The\nplaster is mixed in a basin half full of water,\ninto which it is sprinkled by the hand, as oat-\nmeal is sprinkled in making stirabout when\nthe plaster reaches the surface of the water, it\nis about sufficient, but experience soon teaches\nthe right proportion. The mixed plaster can\nbe jerked by a dexterous twist of the spoon into\nthe deep undercut places, and care must be\ntaken not to inclose bubbles of air. A prac-\ntical moulder would place the clay slab in a\nvertical position, as he would see the process\nof his work better. A large model would re-\nquire several mixings of plaster, as when the\nplaster begins to set or harden, it is useless for\nmoulding. When the first colored coat of plas-\nter is hardened, a wash of clay water should be\napplied nearly all over it, and the second coat-\ning, which may be of coarser stuff put on to\nthe thickness of about 1 in. If the mould is\nvery large, some strips of iron nail rod, J4 in.\nsquare, may be embedded in the back of the\nmould to prevent warping. When the mould\nis set hard, it must be turned over, and the clay\npicked out. If the work has been modeled on\na board or slate, or best of all, on a plaster slab,\nit may be necessary to pass a wire between the\nclay and the board to separate them. When the\nmould has been well cleaned and washed with a\nsoft brush, it should be soaked in a tub of water\nuntil quite saturated through and throug-h,\ndrained, but not wiped, and a sufficient quan-\ntity of superfine plaster, carefully mixed,\npoured into it, and, by moving the mould\nabout, carefully distributed all over. This may\nbe backed with coarser plaster, and strengthen-\ned with iron rods, which in this case should be\npainted or coated with a varnish of rosin and\ntallow. When the cast is set hard, the most\ndifficult part, called knocking out, begins. A\nlight mallet and a carpenter s firmer chisel, by a\nfew dexterous strokes applied upon the edge,\nwill separate the coarse outer backing of the\nmould, prevented by the wash of clay water\nfrom adhering to the first colored layer. The\ncast should then be placed upon a soft elastic\nbed— an empty sack folded is as good as any\nand by gentle taps, holding the chisel perpen-\ndicularly, or nearly so, to the face of the work,\nthe colored plaster may be snapped off, some-\ntimes in large, sometimes in minute pieces, the\ncolor preventing the operator chipping- away\nthe best part of his work, which may happen\nwhen mould and cast are of one color. A\nchisel 1 in. or more broad may be used for the\nfirst rough work smaller will be required for\ndelicate parts.\nA figure in the round may be moulded by the\nsame process, but the mould must be in two\nparts. A strip of clay 1 in. or so wide must be\nfixed all around the clay figure, to be removed\nwhen the first half of the mould is done. The\nedge of the first half must have sunk holes,\nmade by any convenient steel modeling tool, to\ninsure the fitting of the two halves of the mould.\nProjecting limbs must be cut off with a fine wire,\nand cast separately. If an iron support enters\nthe back of the model, a little clay must be put","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0717.jp2"},"710":{"fulltext":"Plaster.\nPowder.\nround it, close to the model, to enable the iron\nto be drawn through the mould, and the hole\nin the mould stopped up with plaster. The\ntwo parts, carefully saturated and bound to-\ngether, may be about half -tilled with well mix-\ned supertiue plaster, as thick as cream, which,\nby carefully turning and inclining the mould,\ncan be made to cover the whole of the mould,\nleaving a large hollow to be filled with a coarser-\nplaster, in which a painted iron rod may be in-\nserted. Good plaster smells sweet, sets in 10-20\nminutes as hard and as crisp as loaf sugar.\nBad plaster smells of sulphur, and never sets\nhard. Beginners must make sure of their\nmaterials, and even then should try their hands\non unimportant work.\nSmall reliefs may be moulded in wax. A bor-\nder of clay or strips of wood a little higher\nthan the highest part of the model must be\nfixed all round, and melted beeswax with a lit-\ntle rosin and tallow added, poured over the\nclay. When the wax is cold, and the clay well\nwashed out, superfine plaster can be poured in\nas into a plaster mould. The wax is afterward\nmelted off or softened bef ore a fire and peeled\noff, to serve again as often as you please.\nAnatomical Specimens.— Prepare the speci-\nmen by making it as clean as possible; place on\noiled paper, in a position that will show it to\nadvantage. Soft projections may be held in\nposition with threads suspended from a frame\nor from a heavy cord stretched across the\nroom. Paraffin melted on a water bath is paint-\ned over the preparation with a soft brush, the\nfirst layer being put on with single and quick\nstrokes, that the rapid cooling of the paraffin\nmay not cause the brush to adhere to the pre-\nparation, thus drawing the soft tissues out of\nplace, until the mould is formed about in.\nthick all undercuts must be well filled. When\nthe mould is hard it can be readily separated\nfrom the preparation it is then well washed\nwith cold water. Stir fine dental plaster into\ncold water to consistency of cream, pour into\nthe mould and out again several times, so that\nthere will be no air bubbles on the surface,\nthen fill the mould and let it stand until hard.\nPlace the whole in a vessel containing boiling-\nwater until the paraffin is all melted wash\nwith clean boiling water. When the cast is\nthoroughly dry, it may be painted with oil\ncolors by coating it first with shellac varnish.\nCasts of any part of the body may be made\nfrom a living subject, if the parts are not too\nsensitive to bear the heat of the paraffin, which\nvaries from 104° to 1-40° F.— English Mechanic.\nPlaster Work.— To Marble Plastic Figures.\nDissolve an ounce of pure curd soap, grated\nin water, and add one ounce of white wax, cut\nin thin slices. When the whole is incorporated\nit is fitrf or use. Having dried the figure before\nthe fire, suspend it by a string and dip it in the\nmixture when it has absorbed the varnish,\ndip it in a second time, and that generally suf-\nfices cover it carefully from the dust for a\nweek, then rub it gently with soft cotton wool,\nand you will have a brilliant shining gloss, re-\nsembling polished marble.\nTransparent Casts. Beautiful semi-trans-\nparent casts of fancy articles may be taken in\na compound of 2 parts unbaked gypsum, 1 of\nbleached beeswax, and 1 of paraffin. This be-\ncomes plastic at 120° F., and is quite tough.\nPlatinized Iron.— By a process recently\ninvented, a protecting coating of platinum\ncan be given to iron, which is at once orna-\nmental and useful— ornamental, as it gives the\nmetal the appearance of silver and useful, as\nit prevents the oxidation of the metal beneath\nit, while the platinum itself is not subject\nto oxidation. This process is the invention\nof M. J. B. A. Dode, of Paris, and consists in\nfirst pi-eparing the iron by coating it with a\ncompound of borate of lead and oxide of cop-\nper made into a pigment with turpentine. The\niron thus coated is placed in a furnace and\nmade red hot, whereby the pigment is burnt\nin, the iron thoroughly cleansed, and its pores\nfilled up. Polished steel andiron, it is stated,\ndo not require this preliminary coating. The\nsecret of the invention is said to lie in the me-\ndium in which the platinum is so held. The\narticles painted with this solution are subject-\ned to heat, whereby the essential oils are driven\noff and the platinum coating remains on the\narticle, giving it the appearance of silver. The\ncost of the process is stated to be one-fourth\nthat of electro-plating with silver, and its re-\nsults are to give a permanent coating of plati-\nnum to the articles treated.\nPolishing:.— Ivory, to Polish in the Lathe.\nIvory and fine hard woods may be polished\nin a turning lathe, by mixing with tripoli the\ndust and shavings that turn off, and pressing it\nagainst the work while turning.\nPaint, to Polish on. Two and a half ounces\n90% alcohol, 1 dr. oil of almonds, 1 dr. gum\nelemi, y% oz. orange shellac. Pounded fine and\nput into a bottle to dissolve. Or 3 oz. shellac\ndissolved in pt. naphtha, used the same as\nFrench polish. If too thick add more naphtha,\nand vice versa. Rub it on with soft woolen or\ncotton wadding.\nStones, etc., to Polish.— A correspondent in\nScience Gossip gives the following as the best\nmethod: Get a piece of lead nine inches by\nfour, and with emery and water grind down\nto a flat surface if now ground on a piece of\nsnake stone, it will make the specimen quite\nsmooth. To polish, nail over a piece of deal\nboard three thicknesses of cloth, strew some\nputty powder over this, wet with water, and\nrub until a polish is produced a fine finish can\nbe obtained by using another board with jew-\neler s rouge instead of putty powder.\nWood, Polishing of.— Dark Polish.— Ten oz.\nmethylated alcohol, 2 drm. powdered myrrh,\n2 oz. shellac, 1% oz. Florence oil, 1 drm. oxalic\nacid, 1 oz. dragon s blood.\nTo Polish New Wood.— First give a coat of\nisinglass dissolved in water very thin, smooth\nit over with fine glass paper, then dissolve in\n4 oz. of wood naphtha, 1 oz. orange shellac, and\n2 drm. benzoin. Stain with dragon s blood to\ncolor required.\nFor Delicate Cabinet and Papier Machc Work.\n—Linseed oil, 16 oz.; spirit, 8 oz.; vinegar, 8 oz.;\nbutter of antimony, 2 oz.; oil of turpentine,\n8 oz. Shake well before using and apply with\na woolen rubber.\nOil of turpentine, 16 oz.; rectified oil of amber,\n16 oz.; olive oil, 16 oz.; oil of lavender, 1 oz.;\ntincture of alkanet, 4 drm. Mix.\nA cotton rubber is saturated with this polish,\nwhich is thus applied to the wood. The latter\nis then well rubbed with soft, dry cotton rags\nand wiped dry.\nPowder. —Face Powder, Harmless. The\nfollowing formula, given by Paschkis, will\nyield a good preparation Magnesium car-\nbonate, 60 parts: zinc oxide, 350 parts; talcum,\n590 parts perfume to suit.\nPink powder is produced by triturating the\nabove with an ammoniacal carmine solution,\nand the yellow tint by adding to 985 parts of\nwhite powder, part carmine and 15 parts\nyellow ocher.\nNursery Powders.— Anti-chafe Nursery Pow-\nder, Hood Co.— Powdered fuller s earth, 9 oz.;\npowdered boric acid, l\\i oz.; powdered oxide\nzinc, 3 oz.; powdered starch, 9 oz.; powdered\norris root, V/z oz.; oil bergamot, 2 drm. Mix\nthe powders thoroughly, add the oil, and pass\nthrough a fine sieve.\nO. K. Baby Powder (C. W. Moister).— Oxide\nzinc, oz.; powdered starch, 1]4 oz.; boraeic\nacid, 20 gr.; oil eucalyptus, 10 drops. Mix and\nrub very fine in a mortar. Dust on parts af-\nfected, as occasion may require.\nCutine or Nursery Powder (W. D. Harnist).—","height":"4343","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0718.jp2"},"711":{"fulltext":"Potatoes.\n699\nPreserving.\nTalc (purified), 8 oz.; fuller s earth (powder-\ned), 4 oz.; lycopodium, 4 oz.; oil rose, 5 gtt.\nRub the oil of rose with the fuller s earth in a\nmortar until thoroughly incorporated add the\ntalc and lycopodium, triturate thoroughly.\nThis makes a harmless and useful sprinkling\npowder and its cost \\v ill not exceed 25 cents per\npound.\nPilot s Infant Powder.— (Fred J. Renner, Jr.\n—Era Prize.)— Carbolic acid, 50 gtt.; boracic\nacid, \\y oz powdered French chalk, 14^ oz.\nTriturate the French chalk with the carbolic\nacid gradually added then add the boracic\nacid and thoroughly mix them.\nBaby Powder.— Powdered French chalk, 14\noz. powdered boracic acid, 2 oz.;ext. jasmine,\n1^ drm.; ext. musk, drm. Pass through\nfine sieve.\nNursery Powder (to Cure Severe Chafing).—\nGum camphor, J4 o z carbolic acid, 15 drops\noxide zinc, oz.; Eng. precip. chalk, 2 oz.;\noil of neroli, 5 drops; oil of rose, 2 drops. Rub\nthe camphor to a fine powder in a mortar use\nalcohol to reduce it, and mix the other com-\nponents thoroughly. Sift through a bolting-\ncloth of 10(1 meshes to the inch.\nThis powder is invaluable for healing raw\nand irritated surfaces and for curing sunburn.\nMixed in the proportion of 3 parts of vaseline\nor cold cream, it forms one of the most useful\ndomestic remedies in the way of a general heal-\ning salve that can be suggested.\nInfant Powder.— Kaolin, 1 lb.; pulv. orris,\nFlorentine, 4 oz.; oil sandal, 40 drops.\nStamping Powder. Pigment, 1 oz.; san-\ndarac, 1 oz.; white resin, 2 oz. The mixture\nshould be passed through a very fine sieve.\nThe pigments preferably employed are Prus-\nsian blue, vermilion, chrome green and yellow,\nwhite lead.\nPotatoes 9 to Solidify.— Make a solution\nof 4 parts of sulphuric acid in 50 parts of\nwater. Treat peeled potatoes with this solu-\ntion for thirty-six hours. Dry the mass be-\ntween blotting paper and subject to great\npressure. By using very strong pressure, bil-\nliard balls have been made closely resembling\nivory. The material can be carved and doubt-\nless could be used for the larger types.\nPreserving.— Books.— In certain parts of\nChina, the British Consul at Swatow observes,\nbooks are extremely liable to be attacked by\ninsects. They first destroy the glue used in the\nbacks of books, and gradually perforate the\nwhole volume. Cockroaches, too, entirely dis-\nfigure the covers by eating away patches of the\nglazing.\nThe remedy for both these nuisances is easy.\nThe late Dr. Hance, who had a large library,\nused the following recipe: Corrosive sublimate,\n5 drm.; creosote, 60 drops, rectified spirit, 21b.\nThis mixture, a violent poison, he applied\nwith a brush in the joint of the book at every\nsix or seven pages, and as a preventive of the\nravages of cockroaches, he varnished the cover\nof the book with a thin, clear spirit varnish.\nIn binding books, it would be only necessary to\nadd a small quantity of the above mixture to\nthe glue used, and to give a coating of spirit\nvarnish to the cover, to secure complete pro-\ntection from the attacks of insects of all\nkinds.\nLead.— Boiling for 15 minutes in a solution\nof sulphide of soda, by Avhich the surface be-\ncomes coated with a film of sulphide of lead,\ninsoluble in water.\nMeat.— •Preservaline, a New Preservative\nfor Meat.— Some time ago I was applied to for\ninformation as to how to pickle meat without\ntne use of nitrate of potash or saltpeter. The\nobjections to the use of saltpeter are said to\nbe:\n(1) The operation of curing takes too long a\ntime.\n(2) It renders the outside of the meat hard.\nI came into possession of two samples, both\nin pulverulent form, one red and the other\nwhite in color. From another source I learned\nthat this product was placed on the market\nunder the trade name of Preser valine.\nA qualitative test showed conclusively the\nabsence of all nitrates and the presence of bo-\nracic acid in combination with a base, for the\nreason that the characteristic green coloration\nof the flame only appeared after the addition\nof a drop of sulphuric acid. It appeared\nfurther that both the red and white samples\nhad the same composition, with the sole differ-\nence that to the colored sample there had evi-\ndently been added some rosaniline color.\nI made up a sample with a little rosalic acid\nwhich exhibited nearly the same color as the\noriginal one, but a little more pronounced.\nThe quantitative analysis of the white sam-\nple gave\nSodium biborate, 44* 18$, sodium chloride,\n45*30$, moisture 7*80$, impurities (undetermin-\ned) 28-2$; total, 100*00$.\nPractically, then, we have here a mixture of\nequal parts of borax and common salt, and the\nregular preservaline, which imparts to the\nmeat a cherry red color, as per announcement\nof the manufacturers and vendors of this\narticle, is simply the same product, with the\naddition of some coloring matter or dye.\nWithout any doubt, this product, on account\nof the large quantity of borax in its composi-\ntion, will act as a good preservative, though\nthe price is high, so far as the selling price is\nconcerned, as the following statement will\nshow: One pound of borax is worth 9 cts.; 1\nlb. salt is worth 1}4 cts.; 2 lb. mixed salt is\nworth 10^ cts.; 1 lb. mixed salt is worth 5J4 cts.\nIt is put upon the market for the prices indi-\ncated in the following tabulation, reproduced\nfrom the manufacturers 1 circular:\nREGULAR.\nFor Curing Per Pound.\nPork and Beef. Cents.\nIn barrels 14\n1001b kegs 15\n50 lb. drums 16\n25 lb. drums 16\n10 lb. boxes 16\nUse one pound for every 100 pounds of meat.\nThis preservaline gives the meat a cherry red\ncolor.\nPreservaline prevents any kind of sausage\nfrom turning sour, even in the warmest\nweather, and retains the natural color of the\nsausage.\nLooking over the literature of the subject, I\nfound that a series of investigations of similar\nproducts had been made by Mr. G. Polenski\n(vide Reports of the Imperial German Health\nOffice, 1889, No. 5, p. 364).\nI quote therefrom the following data, re-\nspecting the composition of a number of such\nmaterials.\n1. The Real Australian Meat Preserver.— (A\nnearly colorless liquid, emitting a strong odor\nof sulphurous acid.) It contains in one liter:\nCalcium oxide, 11*080 grm.; sulphurous acid,\n46*030 grm.; ferric oxide (alumina), 0039 grm.;\nsilicic acid, 0*052 grm.\n2. Real American Meat Preserver.— The same\nliquid, but a stronger solution. Contains per\nliter Calcium oxide, 26*42 grm.; sulphurous\nacid, 89*60 grm.; ferric oxide (alumina), 1*80\ngrm.; silicic acid and alkalies, 1*20 grm.\n3. Conservative for Sausages. —(The same\nliquid, slightly opaque, but odorless.) Con-\ntains per liter: Saltpeter, 33*40 grm.; boracic\nacid, 27*50 grm.; glycerine-, 50*00 grm.\n4. Preserving Salt of R. Leisenthal, Cologne.\n—(Does not redden the meat.) Borax, 48*40$;\nwater of crystallization, 39*00 common sait,\n3*44$ sodium bicarbonate, 9*10$.\n5. Preserving Salt of the Same Manufacturer","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0719.jp2"},"712":{"fulltext":"Preserving:.\n700\nRust.\n(to make the meat red).— Boracic acid, 28*34$\ncommon salt, 9*58$ saltpeter, 57*35$ water,\n4*50$.\n6. Preserving- Salt of Gaase Bros., Berlin.—\nBoracic acid, 29*70$ saltpeter, 37 80^ common\nsalt, 26*70$ water, 5*80\n7. American Ham Preserver.— (An acid, yel-\nlowish liquid, having an empyreumatic odor.)\nContains per liter: Potash alum, 70*00 grm.;\nsaltpeter, 21*04 grm.\n8. Stuttgart Conserving Liquid for Meat.—\n(An acid liquid, having a strong sulphurous\nacid odor and a yellowish color.) Contains per\nliter: Arsenious acid(As 2 3 0*103 grm.; common\nsalt, 5*500 grm.; phosphate of lime (Ca 3 (P0 4 2\n41*940 grm.; sesquioxide of iron and alumina,\n0*440 grm.; sulphurous acid, 37*440; free phos-\nphoric acid (H3PO4), 6*050 grm.\n9. Simple Conserving Salt of Conserving Salt\nCo., Hagen. (A white salt, in solution, alka-\nline.) Contains: Borax, 21*95$ water of crys-\ntallization, 13*30$; saltpeter, 33*10$; common\nsalt, 32*04$.\n10. Triple Conserving Salt of the Same Manu-\nfacturer.— Salt, 0*80$ boracic acid, 55*50$ bo-\nrax, 29*00 water of crystallization, 14*70$.\n11. Sazolith. Sulphate of soda, 37*3$ sul-\nphurous acid, 39*7$ soda, 21*0$ water, 2*0$.\n12. Berlinit. Common salt, 7*5$; boracic acid,\n9*0$ borax, 8*2*7$.\nBerlinit Pickle (for reddening the meat) —Salt,\n45*9$ saltpeter, 32*2$ boracic acid, 19*2$; water,\n2*0$.\n13. China Preserving Powder (Minerva).—\nCommon salt, 25*00$; boracic acid, 17*7$; sul-\nphate of sodium, 38*8$; sulphite of sodium, 9*2$\nwater, 9*3$.\n14.— Australian Salt.— Common salt, 5 5$ bo-\nrax, 94*0$ hydrocarbon 0*5$.\n15. Dr. C. Rueger s Barmenit.— Equal parts of\nborax and common salt.\nThis last brings us home again. American\ningenuity, it will be perceived, is again in the\nlead. All the liquids and powdei s here referred\nto are free from coloring matter. They all use\nsaltpeter to impart the red color to the meat,\nbut the inventor of preservaline introduces\nthe novelty of a dye to take its place.— Dr.\nB. Teme.\nPlants and the Vine, to Protect.— The following-\nformulas for the prevention of mildew on the\nvine and various plants, as also of some chemi-\ncal manures, will doubtless be valued by many\nvineyard owners\nFor Vine Mildew.— Copper sulphate, 2 lb.;\nwater (dissolve and add), 4 gal.; sodium carbon-\nate, 3 *b.\nAfter the precipitation add molasses, lb.;\nstir occasionally, and after twelve hours add\nwater, 25 gal. Use this mixture with a spray\npump.\nThe following is sometimes called Bordeaux\nMixture. It may be used during the winter\nand early spring to paint the stems of vines\nand fruit trees: Copper sulphate, 3 lb.; lime, 3\nlb.; water, 12 gal.\nCHEMICAL MANURES.\nNo. 1. No. 2. No. 3.\nParts. Parts. Parts.\nSuperphosphate of lime, 34 40 40\nPotassium nitrate. 16 30 20\nSodium nitrate 25\nSulphate of lime 25 30 40\nFor plants in pots, use 30 gr. for a plant in a\npot of 1 qt. capacity, 50 gr. in pots 2 to 3 qt., 75\ngr. in larger pots. For plants in the open air,\n3 to 4 oz. to the square yard of earth surface.\nPotatoes, How to Preserve.— The French Min-\nister of Agriculture publishes the details of\nthe process in the official Bulletin du Ministere\nde V Agriculture for March, 1891. The follow-\ning is a translation of the essential part of the\nscheme\n1. The method of preservation consists in\nplunging the tubers, before storing them away,\nfor ten hours into a 2$ solution of commercial\nsulphuric acid in water 2 parts of acid to 100\nparts of water.\n2. The acid penetrates the eyes to the depth\nof about one-fortieth inch (two millimeters),\nwhich serves to destroy their sprouting power;\nit does not have any appreciable effect upon\nthe skin of the potatoes.\n3. After remaining in the liquid ten hours,\nthe tubers must be thoroughly dried before\nstoring away.\n4. The same liquid may be used any number\nof times with equally good results.\n5. A barrel or tank of any kind wiU do for\nthe treatment. The acid is so dilute it does not\naffect the wood.\n6. Chemical analysis shows that potatoes\ntreated by this process are as nutritious and\nhealthful af tereighteen months as when freshly\ndug.\n7. Potatoes thus treated are of course worth-\nless for planting.— Gerald McCarthy, N. C. Ex-\nperiment Station, Raleigh.\nStone, to Preserve.— Dry clean fine sand, 20\nparts; litharge, 2 parts; pulverized lime, 1 part.\nMix with boiled linseed oil to a thick paste.\nPlaster of Paris colored with any dry paints\nto a suitable color, then quickly wet to a paste\nand applied, makes a good cement where not\nexposed to the weather.\nPrinters Roller Composition.— This\ncomposition, by Hawkins and Stacey, London,\nhas an affinity for printers ink, and is tree from\nglycerine, which is a principal ingredient in\nroller compositions as usually made, but which\nrepels the ink. A composition prepared ac-\ncording to the following- formula has been\nfound to answer well in practice Glue or\ngelatine, 1 lb.; water, 12 oz.; linseed or other\nsuitable oil, 1 lb. 8 oz.; molasses or sugar, from 1\nlb. to 1 lb. 8 oz.; calcium chloride or potash.\noz. powdered resin (if required), 2 oz. The\nglue is first soaked in the water and then\nmelted, and the linseed oil (warmed to a tem-\nperature of about 150° F.) is then very gradu-\nally added and thoroughly mixed with the\nmelted glue. The sugar or molasses is then ad-\nded to the mass kept at a suitable temperature,\nand the calcium chloride then incorporated. If\na very tough composition be required, the\nresin (dissolved by heat in a little linseed oil) is\nto be added. The composition may be made\nnon-absorbent of water by dispensing with the\ncalcium chloride and substituting a similar\namount of bismuth carbonate.\nRust.— Metal, Protective for Polished.— Resin,\n35 parts; talc, in powder, 500 parts; lard, 250\nparts; yellow wax, 130 parts; olive oil, 130 parts;\noil of turpentine, 130 parts.\nMix the resin, lard, wax, and oil, and melt at\nalow temperature. When melted, stir in the\ntalc, and, after removing from the fire, add the\nturpentine, with constant stirring.\nNickel Plating, to Protect from Rust.— In put-\nting away a bicycle for the winter, every part\nshould be thoroughly cleaned from dirt, the\nrunning parts daily oiled and the bright\nparts wiped with a mixture of vaseline and\nparaffine, 2 parts vaseline, M part paraffine, to\nwhich add a half part of finely ground quick-\nlime by heating and stirring. Apply warm by\nwiping- all the nickel parts, and wrapping them\nin paper which has been coated on one side by\nthe mixture, very thin, which will keep off dust\nand dampness. The japanned parts and saddle\nshould also be nicely covered with wrapping\npaper to keep off dust, which injures the japan\nby long contact.\nScrews, Rusting of.— To prevent screws em-","height":"4343","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0720.jp2"},"713":{"fulltext":"Shell*.\nroi\nSoap*.\nployed to join machinery from becoming fixed\nand difficult to remove from oxidation, the\nJloniteur Industrielle recommends a mixture of\noil and graphite, and says it will effectually pre-\nvent screws from becoming fixed, and protect\nthem for years from rust. The mixture facili-\ntates tightening up, and is an excellent lubri-\ncant, and reduces the friction of the screw in\nits socket. Carbon, of which graphite is largely\ncomposed, is the best known lubricant.\nSteel, to Remove Rust from.- Cover the rusted\npart with oil or fat, let it remain three hours,\nwipe off with cloth; take 2 drm. caustic\npotash and 4 oz. opodeldoc rub on the\nmixture and let it re main ten minutes, rub off\ndry with cloth. Or, cover the rusted parts\nwith sweet oil, well rub in, and next day cover\nwith finely powdered unslaked lime polish\nwith this until the rust disappears. Or, take\nYi oz. emery powder, 1 oz. soft soap, mixed,\nand well rub in.\nTin Goods from Rusting, to Prevent.— Cleanse\nthem, wipe quite dry, and place them near the\nfire. With this precaution tinware will last a\nTnuch longer time than usual.\nShells, to Clean. See Cleansing.\nShoes, Patent ^Leather, to Renew.\nAllow common vaseline to remain on the shoes\nfor half an hour, remove and rub with can-\nton flannel. Of course, if the shoes are badly\ncracked, this treatment will be of no avail.\nSilvering. Ivory, to Silver.— Make a strong\nsolution (1 drm. to 2 oz.) of silver nitrate;\nprotect such parts of your design as are\nnot required to be acted on by copal var-\nnish then immerse the ivory work in the so-\nlution when it becomes yellow, remove it to a\nglass vessel containing distilled water, and ex-\npose to the rays of the sun. In a short time it\nwill become black in those parts that are not\nprotected it should then be removed from the\nwater, wiped dry, and rubbed well with apiece\nof soft leather, when the design will appear on\nthe ivory in a metallic state. Clean off the var-\nnish and burnish. Particularly recommended\nfor ornamenting tablets, paper knives, mark-\ning crests on table knives, or, in fact, anything\nthat requires ornament or cipher.\nSize.— New. A new glue size for paper ma-\nkers 1 use, which is nearly 50% cheaper than the\nold kinds and more suitable for the purpose, is\nprepared as follows Dissolve in a copper pan,\nheated by indirect steam, 20 to 22 kilo. (44\nto 48-4 lb.) of soda, in 90 to 110 kilo. (198 to\n242 lb.) of boiling water; then add, stirring\nconstantly, 140 kilo. (308 lb.) of powdered\nrosin, keeping the whole boiling constantly un-\ntil all the rosin is dissolved, which is generally\naccomplished in three or four hours. The soda\nrosin composition is mixed together with a\nglue solution made by dissolving 50 kilo. (110\nlb.) of glue in 140 to 150 kilo. (308 to 330 lb.) of\nwater. Boil both solutions together for about\nten minutes, after which run the mixture\nthrough a fine sieve or filter, and it is then\nready for use. The best proportions for mix-\ning the vegetable and animal sizes are, for one\nand a half parts of rosin add one part of glue,\nor, for some purposes, equal parts of each can\nbe taken. An addition of starch, if required,\ncan be made as usual, also the mixing of this\nimproved size with the pulp.\nSoaps.— Cleaning Soap by Cold Method.— The\nBerliner Drogen Zeitung gives the following\nCocoanut oil, 30 kilo.; soda lye, 38° B., 15 kilo.;\npotash lye, 20° B., 5 kilo.; brilliant green, 200\ngrm.; oil of turpentine, purified, 800 grm.;\nhnely pulverized clay, 26 kilo.\nThe clay (kaolin), finely sifted, is first placed\nin the vat. The coloring matter brilliant\ngreen) is rubbed up with a portion of the oil\nand the balance of the latter poured in upon\nthe clay, and the two intimately mixed. The\ncolored oil is next added and all well stirred\ntogether. Mix the two alkaline solutions and\npour them in a strong stream into the mixture\nof oil and clay, agitating the latter constantly.\nFinally, add the turpentine under constant\nStirling. The resultant soap is poured into\nmetallic boxes and closely covered. Grease\nspots in garments are first covered with a little\nof the paste, well rubbed in. Sponging with\nwarm water afterward removes soap and spot\nin the most complete manner.\nLaundry Soaps, the Perfumes in.— To find an\noil which will effectually cover the rosin and\ncocoanut odor in common soaps has been the\naim of the laundry soap maker for many years.\nOr course, there are oils that will do it, but\nwhich is preferable, mirbane or cocoanut? or\ncitronella\nWithin the last year or so there has been an oil\nused in Europe quite extensively to overcome\nthis, and to make the readers of this journal\nacquainted with it is the object of this little\narticle. It is the oil of pennyroyal, 01. Menthce\nPuleggi (not Oleum hedeomce). The latter is the\nAmerican pennyroyal, as different from the\nFrench oil as day is from night.\nIt is stronger than the majority of oils used\nby soap men, stronger even than mirbane, and\nhas no obnoxious odor. Belonging, as the name\nindicates, to the family of mints, it has that cha-\nracteristic odor, backed by a great amount of\n[natural oil camphor, which helps to hold\nand diffuse the odor.\nIn itself it would not make a good perfume,\nbut mixed with other oils it does the work.\nThe following formulas are recommended,\nand if proper care is used in their preparation,\nthere is little doubt of success.\n1. Mixture for White Soap.— Oil French pen-\nnyroyal, 31b.; oil thyme, white, 1 lb.; oil laven-\nder flowers, 1 lb.; oil caraway chaff, lb. Mix\nand use 1 lb. to 325 lb. soap.\nThe cost of the above is about $1.10 a pound,\nand it can be used to a good deal more soap,\nonly the house using it, making 1 lb. cakes,\nwanted a strong odor.\n2. For Colored Soap.— Oil French pennyroyal,\n1 lb.; oil cassia, 1 lb.; oil cloves; J^lb.; oil laven-\nder spike, bib. Mix and use the same as above.\nMedicated Soaps.— The base for these soaps is\nconstructed upon the following formula, which\nis termed basic soap (basis seife): Mutton\nsuet, best quality, 593 parts olive oil, 74 parts\ncaustic soda, 22i parts; caustic potash, 111 parts.\nMix and make a soap.\n1. Resorcin and Salicylic Acid Soap.— For the\ntreatment of paristic and seborrhceic eczema;\nalso of great service in psoriasis, acne and ich-\nthyosis Basic soap, 94 parts salicylic acid, 3\nparts resorcin, 3 parts. Mix.\n2. Resorcin, Salicylic Acid and Sulphur Soap.\nFor use in acne vulgaris and acne rosacea,\nand in seborrhceic eczema, marked by deep in-\nfiltration of the skin: Basic soap, 84 parts;\nresorcin, 3 parts; salicylic acid, 3 parts; sul-\nphur, precipitated. Mix.\n3. Resorcin, Salicylic Acid, Sulphur and Tar\nSoap.— For use in squamous eczema and psori-\nasis vidgaris: Basic soap, 79 parts; resorcin, 3\nparts; salicylic acid, 3 parts; precipitated sul-\nphur, 10 parts; liquid tar, 5 parts. Mix.\n4. Quinine Soap.— Found to be valuable in\npityriasis versicolor, in the treatment of which\nit is made into a lather and the latter allowed\nto dry on the affected parts: Basic soap, 97\nparts quinine sulphate, 3 parts. Mix.\n5. Hydroxylamin Soap. For psoriasis and\neczema Basic soap, 97 parts hydroxylamin,\n3 parts. Mix.\n6. Iodoform Soap.— For use in the treatment\nof ulceration in the legs, etc.: Basic soap, 95\nparts iodoform, 5 parts. Mix.\n7. Creolin Soap.— For treatment of conta-\ngious impetigo, itch, intertrigo and hyperi-\ndrosis Basic soap, 95 parts creolin, 5 parts.\nMix.","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0721.jp2"},"714":{"fulltext":"Solderiiij\n702\nSummer,\n8. Ergotin Soap.— Used in cases of arterial\nhypersemia of the skin (such as acne rosacea,\ncongelations, varicose eczema, cicatrices mark-\ned by vascular dilatation, etc.) Basic soap, 95\nparts ergotin, 5 parts. Mix.\n9. Iodine Soap.— Used in the treatment of\nscrofula, tumefaction of the superficial gan-\nglia, chronic tumefaction (epididymitis, etc.),\nspecifi culcerations and exanthemata, parasi-\ntory sycosis, favus, tinea, tonsurans, pityria-\nsis versicolor, etc.: Iodine, resublimed, 6 parts\npotassium iodide, 3 parts; basic soap, 191 parts.\nMix.\n10. Salicylic Acid and Creosote Soap.— Salicylic\nacid, 5 parts creosote, 2 parts basic soap, 93\nparts. Mix.\nThis soap has been found of great service in\nthe treatment of lupus, psoriasis, seborrhceic\neczema, parasitic sycosis, favus and tinea ton-\nsurans.— Nouveaux Remedes, Nat. Druggist.\nShaving Soap.— A reader of the Pharmaceu-\ntical Record asks for a receipt for making the\nYankee Shaving Soap, and that paper recom-\nmends the following: Take 3 lb. white bar\nsoap, 1 lb. castile soap, 1 qt. rain water, Yq pt.\nbeef s gall, 1 gill spirits of turpentine. Cut the\nsoap into thin slices and boil five minutes after\nthe soap is dissolved stir while boiling scent\nwith oil of rose or almonds. If you wish to\ncolor it, use y% oz. vermilion.\nSoldering.— Aluminum, Soldering.— The in-\nventors claim that surfaces of aluminum may\nbe successfully soldered to each other, and to\nother metallic surfaces, by using silver chlo-\nride as a flux in conjunction with ordinary sol-\nder.\nThe pieces of metal, one or both of which\nare aluminum, are placed in the relative po-\nsition required in the joint, finely powdered\nfused silver chloride spread along the line of\njunction, and solder melted on with a blow-\npipe or other device. The joints are thus easily\nand rapidly obtained, and become hard and\nperfectly sound on setting, and neither crack,\nflake, nor check.— P. J. Page and H. A. Ander-\nson, Watefbury, Conn.\nNickel, Solders for.— For fine or high grade\nnickel Three parts of yellow brass, 1 part of\nsterling silver. For low grade nickel Fifteen\nparts of yellow brass. 5 parts of sterling silver,\n4 parts of zinc (pure or plate zinc). Melt the\nbrass and silver with borax for a flux, and add\nthe zinc in small pieces, stir with an iron rod,\npour into a slab mould, and cool slowly, when\nit can be rolled thin for cutting.\nSponges.— To Bleach. Sec Bleaching.\nStaining.— Grasses, to Stain.— All the va-\nrieties of grass are coated on their surfaces\nwith a materia 1 resembling glass— a hard, im-\npenetrable substance, and which is very visi-\nble on common cane. On this account it is\nwith difficulty that the dyer can impart any\ngreat variety of color to such materials, and\nit accounts for the little variety of color that\nis seen in the straw hat trade. Were it not for\nthis difficulty, it is more than probable that\nstraw bonnets would be seen in all the colors\nof the rainbow. Although the colors are by\nno means bright, yet it is possible to stain\ngrasses sufficiently for many ornamental pur-\nposes. Many of the grasses are so exceedingly\nbeautiful in form that they are frequently\ngathered, and, when dry, are made up into\npretty ornaments for the sitting room. If,\nhowever, some of the specimens are not arti-\nficially colored when grouped together, they\nhave rather a somber appeai-ance, owing to\ntheir sameness of tint. A little variety of\ncolor may be imparted thus\nBlue is given by dipping the grasses into a\nboiling hot solution of indigo in sulphuric\nacid.\nA light blue can be given by diluting with\nwater the above solution to the desired shade.\nYellow is imparted by steeping the grass in\na boiling decoction of turmeric.\nRed, by boiling shreds of scarlet cloth in wa-\nter containing a little alum.\nGreen is imparted by placing the grass first\nin a hot solution of sulphate of copper, and\nthen in a bath of common soda in water,\nand also dyeing the grass first blue and then\nyellow.\nBlack and slate colors are produced by first\ndipping the grass in a decoction of logwood,\nand afterward in a solution of sulphate of iron.\nOther tints are procured by varying the bath\nwith prussiate of potash, chromate of potash,\nBrazil wood, archil, and many other chemi-\ncals.\nPaper and Parchment, to Stain Blue.\nStain it green with the verdigris stain, and\nbrush over with a solution of pearlash (2 oz.\nto the pint) till it becomes blue.\nGreen and Red.— Dissolve verdigris in vine-\ngar, and brush over the hot solution until of a\nproper color.\nOrange.— Brush over with a tincture of tur-\nmeric, by infusing an ounce of the root in 1 pt.\n90$ alcohol; let this dry, and give an-\nother coat of pearlash solution, made by dis-\nsolving 2 oz. of the salt in 1 qt. water.\nPurple.— Brush over with the expressed juice\nof ripe privet berries then go over the work\nseveral times with a decoction of logwood\nwhen dry give a coat of potassium carbonate\nsolution (1 drm. to 1 qt.) Cover evenly.\nYellow. Brush over with tincture of tur-\nmeric. Add annotto or dragon s blood to the\ntincture. Brush over as usual.\nStone., Artificial.— Ten parts silicic acid,\npowdered and freed from impurities, are mix-\ned with 90 parts of water and 100 of quicklime,\nall by weight. 100 parts of the product are\nmixed with 100 parts of sand and 5 parts mag-\nnesia or fluorspar, and the mass moulded as de-\nsired. The articles are allowed to dry for 12 to\n24 hours, and subjected to steam pressure\nunder ten atmospheres pressure for 48\nto 72 hours, after which they are treated\nwith boiling saturated calcium chloride solu-\ntion at a pressure of ten atmospheres for six to\ntwelve houi S. They may then be dried by air or\nthe circulation of steam. Marble, magnesia,\nmagnesium limestone, etc., may be substituted\nfor the sand. The stones thus formed are said to\nresemble marble, sandstone, granite, etc., close-\nly, to be fireproof, and to resist the action of\nthe weather as well as natural stones.— C. Geo,\nBerlin, Germany.\nSummer Drinks.— From the British and\nColonial Druggist we take the following formu-\nlas, which are perhaps equal or superior to\nthose given in other parts of the book.\nLime Fruit Syrup.— A very pleasant and cool-\ning drink is made of: Citric acid, 3 oz.; sugar,\n7 lb.; boiling water, 1 gal.; coloring, q. s. Dis-\nsolve.\nCinnamon Syrup.— Oil of cinnamon, 8 min.;\ntincture of capsicum, 2jdrm. Dissolve and add\nto a solution of sugar, 7 lb., in boiled water,\n1 gal.\nFramboise Syi^up.— Raspberry syrup, 1 pt.\ncurrant syrup, 2 pt. The mixtures of the va-\nrious fruit syrups give rise to many other\nnames, and we omit other formulas.\nChocolate Syrup.— Selected chocolate, 1 lb.\nwater, 4 pt. Have the chocolate rubbed well\nto powder or by means of a Keystone beater\nor other suitable apparatus, thoroughly incor-\nporate, adding 4 lb. sugar; bring to boiling\npoint with constant stirring remove from the\nsource of heat continue the use of the me-\nchanical stirrer for 20 minutes; when cold, add\nextract vanilla, 1 oz.; essence cinnamon, M oz.;\nand enough thin syrup to make 1 gal.\nMuch depends upon the selection of the cho-\ncolate, and here inquiry finds that our friends\ndiffer as to preference. Avoid scorching, and\nthis means constant attention and stirring.\nCoffee Syrup.— Java coffee, 2 lb. (ground very","height":"4343","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0722.jp2"},"715":{"fulltext":"Teas.\n703\nVarnishes.\nfine) mix 2 pt. of alcohol with 6 pt. of water;\nmoisten the coffee, and in a suitable percolator\nadd the remaining- liquid to thoroughly ex-\nhaust the coifee. At a very gentle heat evapo-\nrate the alcohol, and add 4 lb. of sugar. Make\nto the measure of 1 gal. by adding thin, plain\nsyrup.\nCream Syrup.— In making cream syrup avoid\nheat. 1. Cream, 1 pt. milk, 1 pt. sugar, 1 lb.\n2. Condensed milk (without sugar), 1 pt. wa-\nter, 1 pt. sugar, V/% lb.\n3. Condensed milk (with sugar), 1 can or y%\npt.; water, J^ pt. thin syrup, 1 pt.\nEgg Phosphate Syrup— Lemon syrup, 2 pt.\norange syrup, 2 pt. eggs, 32; phosphoric acid\n(U. S. P.), 1 to 2 fl. oz.\nThoroughly incorporate this with a Keystone\nbeater. Draw to 2 fl. oz. in large tumbler,\nand fill with carbonated water.\nFruit Pho s p hates.— Strawberry syrup, 8 fl.\noz. pineapple syrup, 8 fl. oz. cherry syrup, 8\nfl. oz. pear syrup, 8 fl. oz. dilute phosphoric\nacid or phosphate solution, 1 fl. oz.\nOrgeat Syrup. —Cream syrup, 8 fl. oz. vanilla\nsyrup, 8 fl. oz. essence bitter almond, 1 11. dr.\nA. New Lemon Syrup. The separation of\ncitral from oil of lemon gives a product of de-\nlicious odor and taste. It is proposed to utilize\nthis as follows: Oil lemon, 14.gr.; citral, 1 gr.\nDissolve this in a little deodorized alcohol, and\nadd it to simple syrup, 100 kilos.\nThe pamphlet of Schimmel Co. says this\nyields a perfectly clear and very aromatic sy-\nrup. Citral is obtained from quite a variety of\nother oils than lemon, as limetta oil, mandarine\noil, lemongrass oil, eucalyptus oil, backhausia\noil, citronelle fruit oil, Japan pepper oil, and\nere long we may hear of many other sources\nfrom which it may be obtained.\nTeas, Medicinal.— Hamburg Tea.— Senna\nleaves, c oarsely cut, 20 parts coriander, crush-\ned, 5 parts; manna, well dried and cut, 10 parts;\ntartaric acid, powdered, 1 part. The senna\nleaves are moistened with tartaric acid, dis-\nsolved in 2 parts of water, then dried and mixed\nwith the rest.\nResolvent Tea.— Melissa leaves, 7 parts; ori-\nganum, 7 parts chamomile, 2 parts lavender\nflowers, 2 parts; elder flowers, 2 parts. Are\ncoarsely cut and mixed.\nTransferring.— Wood, to Transfer Prints\nto.— First varnish the wood once with white\nhard varnish, then cut off the margins of the\nprint, which should be on unsized paper. Wet\nthe back of it with a sponge and water, using\nenough water to saturate the paper, but not so\nas to be watery on the printed side. Then,\nwith aflat camel s hair brush, give it a coat of\ntransfer (alcohol) varnish on the printed side,\nand apply it immediately, varnished side down-\nward, on the wood work, placing a sheet of\npaper on it and pressing it down evenly with\nthe hand till every part adheres. After stand-\ning a short time, gently. rub away the back of\nthe print with the fingers, till nothing but a\nthin pulp remains. It may require being wet-\nted again, before all that will come (or rather\nought to come) off is removed. Great care is\nrequired in this operation, that the design or\nprinted side be not disturbed. When this is done\nand quite dry, give the work a coat of white\nhard varnish, and it will appear as if printed\non the wood.\nVarnishes.— Precautions which should be\nobserved in applying varnishes. Whether the\nvarnishes are used on paint or directly on the\nwood, it is well to observe the following rules:\n1. The object must be clean, protected from\ndust, and at a mild or high temperature, ac-\ncording to whether alcohol or fatty varnishes\nare used.\n2. The varnish should be kept in a closed ves-\nsel and a cool place, drawing off only the\nquantity really required for the work to be\nexecuted.\n3. To put on the varnish, a small quantity is\ntaken on a brush and spread on in such a way\nthat the brush will not pass twice over the\nsame place, nor leave places without varnish,\nwhich would produce spots. The coats must\nbe thin and uniform, not being thicker than a\nsheet of paper. If one coat is not sufficient,\nput on as many as are necessary, always taking\ncare that the previous coat is well dried.\n4. If the varnish is too thick and does not\nspread well, it should be thinned by adding a\nlittle distilled alcohol or spirit of turpentine,\naccording to whether alcoholic or fatty var-\nnishes are used.\n5. If the varnish blisters, or looks badly, it\nmust all be removed immediately, for which\npurpose, if the varnish is fresh, the surface is\nrubbed with alcohol or spirits of turpentine,\naccording to whether the vehicle of the var-\nnish is alcohol or oil.\n6. When the varnish is applied immediately\nto wood, the surface, after being rubbed\ndown with pumice stone, is polished with very\nfine sandpaper.\nMany of the following varnish receipts are\npublished for the first time in English, having\nbeen specially translated from the Spanish edi-\ntion of the Scientific American (La America\nCientifica e Industrial).\nAfrican Varnish.— Dissolve 1 lb. pale African\ncopal in 1 qt. of hot linseed oil, simmer in water\nbath, and add 1 pt. spirits of turpentine, and\nstrain. Thin with turpentine if required, and\nbottle.\nAlcohol Varnish. For woodwork, ironwork,\ngrilles, etc.: Sandarac. 150 to 190 grm.; shellac,\n60grm.; vegetable pitch, 120 to 130 grm.; clear\nturpentine, 120 to 130 grm.; ground glass, 120\nto 430 grm.; alcohol. 970 to 980 grm.\nThe pulverized glass divides the resins, pre-\nventing them from adhering to the bottom of\nthe vessel and retaining the foreign substances\nthat might be mixed with them. La America\nCientifica e Industrial.\nAmber Varnish for Gilding Wood.— Colo-\nphony, 15 grm.; amber, 60 grm.; elemi, 30 grm.;\nspirit of turpentine, 375 grm.\nBlack Varnish, for Sheet Iron.— Melted colo-\nphon y, 60 grm.; amber, 90 grm. After fusion\nand cooling, add Spirits of turpentine, 45\ngrm.; painters 1 varnish, 45 grm. If the var-\nnish is too thick, dilute it with essence.\nDead Black, for Optical Goods and Ornamen-\ntal Iron Work.— Dissolve seed lac in 95% alcohol*\nq. s. Mix refined lamp black with alcohol and\nadd enough seed lac varnish to make the lamp\nblack adhere, but not enough to give it gloss.\nStrain through cheese cloth. Apply with a\nsoft varnish brush.\nBrass, Varnish for.— Boil in alcohol, turmeric,\n24 parts saffron, 5 parts. This is filtered and\nheated, in water bath, in this tincture Gam-\nboge. 24 parts; elemi, 90 parts; dragon s blood*\n30 parts alcohol, 500 parts.\nBoiling Water, Varnish which Resists.\nLinseed oil, V/z lb.; amber, 1 lb.; pulverized\nlitharge, 5 oz.; powdered white lead, 5 oz.;\nminium, 5 oz. Boil the linseed oil in an im-\ntinned copper vessel, and suspend in it the\nlitharge and minium in a small bag, which\nmust not touch the bottom of vessel. Con-\ntinue the ebullition until the oil has acquired\na deep brown color then take out the bag,\nand put in a clove of garlic; this is to be re-\npeated seven or eight times, the boiling being\ncontinued. Before the amber is added to the\noil, it is to be mixed with 2 oz. of linseed oil,\nand melted over a fire that is well kept up.\nWhen the mass is fluid, it is to be poured into\nthe linseed oil; this mixture is to be boiled and\nstirred continually for two or three minutes.\nAfterward, filter the mixture, and preserve it\nin a bottle well corked up. When this varnish","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0723.jp2"},"716":{"fulltext":"SL\nVarnishes.\n704\nVarnislies.\nis used, the wood must be previously well pol-\nished, and covered with a thin coat of soot and\nspirits of turpentine. When this coat is dry,\nsome of the varnish may be applied with a\nsponge, taking care that it is equally distribut-\ned on every part. This operation is to be re-\npeated four times, being always careful that\neach coat be well dried before another is put\nover it. After the last coat of varnish, the\nwood must be dried in an oven, and afterward\npolished.\nBrushes* Varnish, to Keep. Varnish brushes\nshould never be allowed to touch water, as it\nnot only injures the elasticity of the hair, but\na resin is deposited in the hilt of the brush\nwhich can never be thoroughly removed, and\nwhich will work out little by little when the\nbrush is used, destroying the glossy surface\nwhich otherwise might be obtained.\nCabinet Varnish.— Fuse 7 lb. very fine Afri-\ncan gum copal, and pour in \\i gal. pale clarified\noil.\nCamphorated Copal Varnish.— Take powder-\ned copal, 4 oz.; essential oil of lavender, 12 oz.;\ncamphor, J^oz.; and as much spirit of turpen-\ntine as will produce the required consistency.\nHeat the oil and the camphor in a small\nmatrass, stirring them, and putting in the\ncopal and turpentine in the same manner as\nfor gold-colored copal varnish.\nCelluloid Varnish. As there is much interest\nin the celluloid preparations, an abridged copy\nof patent No. 450,264, issued to E. N. Todd, of\nNewark, N. J., will be given.\nMy invention embodies an improved process\nfor the production of an amyl-acetate-benzine\nsolvent, which is produced at a relatively lower\ncost or by the use of a smaller quantity of\nacetic acid than is necessary when the ordinary\nprocess is employed.\nThe ingredient which has been found most\nuseful in pyroxyline varnishes is amyl acetate,\nand the solution consisting of pyroxyline and\namyl acetate would have valuable properties\nbut owing to the comparatively great expense\nof amyl acetate, ana the necessity of using\nwith it some thinning liquid in order to obtain\nthe proper consistency, it has not been prac-\nticable to use it alone. A compound of amyl\nacetate and benzine alone has been well known\nas a useful solvent of pyroxyline for varnishes,\nbut the ingredients, the process of making\nwhich is herein described, and which I have\ncalled an amyl-acetate-benzine solvent, are\nsuperior to a simple mixture of amyl acetate\nand benzine, and have qualities which a com-\npound of those two substances formed by a\nsimple admixture would not lead a person to\nexpect.\nVarhish.— According to my process I first mix\nfusel oil and a suitable hydrocarbon, such as\nTjenzine— say in the proportion of ten barrels\nof fusel oil and one barrel of benzine. The\nappearance of this mixture is similar in being\ncloudy to a mixture of amyl acetate and ben-\nzine but being allowed to stand, the watery\nliquid settles down from the mixture, which\nthen becomes clear. I then draw off or sepa-\nrate the watery part of this mixture and distill\nthe clear mixture of benzine and fusel, oil\nwith acetic acid in the usual way of making\namyl acetate from fusel oil; but I useless acetic\nacid to the proportion of fusel oil than is re-\nquired when the amyl acetate is made from the\nfusel oil alone. Thus, for instance, I may use\nsay 2V£ gal. of acetic acid to 8 gal. of the mix-\nture of fusel oil and benzine.\nThe distillate formed by this process is an\nactive solvent of proxyline, to which more\nbenzine can be added if required, and besides,\nbeing anhydrous and consequently valuable\nfor the manufacture of varnishes or lacquers,\npossesses a solvent strength which a simple\nmixture of benzine and amyl acetate does not\nhave; or, in other words, the distillate is a\nstronger solvent than could be expected from\na simple knowledge derived from experience of\nmixtures of benzine and amyl acetate sepa-\nrately or combined in the usual way.\nMy new solvent, or distillate from a mixture\nof fusel oil and a suitable hydrocarbon, as\nabove specified, is a useful ingredient for the\nusual gum varnishes, such as shellac, copal,\netc., and I therefore do not limit myself to its\nuse with a pyroxyline varnish.\nClaims.— 1. The process herein described of\nmaking a distillate by first mixing fusel oil and\na suitable hydrocarbon second, separating the\nwatery part therefrom; and, third, distilling\nthe mixture with acetic acid, substantially as\ndescribed.\n2. The process herein described of making a\ndistillate by first mixing fusel oil and benzine\nsecond, separating the watery part therefrom\nand, third, distilling such mixture with acetic\nacid, substantially as described.\n3. The improved solvent consisting of a dis-\ntillate of fusel oil, a suitable hydrocarbon, and\nacetic acid, substantially as herein described.\n4. The improved solvent consisting of a dis-\ntillate of fusel oil, benzine, and acetic acid,\nsubstantially as herein described.\nChinese Varnishes. Mix *4 oz. of white wax\nand 8 oz. spirits of turpentine; When well\nmixed and cold, dip in your articles and hang\nup to dry.\nColorine is a varnish made speciahy for\nthe ornamentation of fancy tin plate, lamp\nshades, toys, shade rollers and household uten-\nsils also, for the protection of the tins used\nby canners of fruits, vegetables, lobsters, sar-\ndines, etc. It imparts a lustrous waterproof\ncoating when applied in any of the numerous\nways common to lacquerers.\nIt is furnished transparent and in the richest\ncolors known, green, bronze, yellow, blue, red\ngold, yellow gold, and to special order. Any\none can use it after a few moments pt, tice.\nWithout heat it will dry hard enough for Land-\nling in half an hour, with heat in much less\ntime. The Celluloid Zapon Co., of New York,\nare the makers of this preparation.\nColorless Varnish.— Dissolve 8 oz. gum sanda-\nrac and 2 oz. Venice turpentine in 32 oz. alcohol\nby a gentle heat. To make a harder varnish,\nof a reddish cast, dissolve 5 oz. shellac and 1 oz.\nturpentine in 32 oz. alcohol by gentle heat.\nColors, Varnish for Mixing with.— Take 1 oz.\ngum anima; mastic and gum sandarac, of each\n2 oz.; reduce them to a fine powder, and place\nthem in a glass vessel, pouring 1 pt. 00% alcohol\nover them. Hang the vessel in the sun un-\ntil the ingredients become perfectly dissolved,\nthen filter the liquor through a clean cloth,\nand keep it in a well-coi-ked bottle.\ni Varnish for Dissolving Colors, and for giving\nbrilliancy to paper and to all white substances\n1. Sandarac, 15 to 16 dkgrm.; mastic, in pul-\nverized drops 61 grm.; elemi, 30 grin.; essence\nof lavender, 30 grm. Mix these substances and\nadd: Alcohol, 1 kilo. This varnish dries quickly,\nis solid and brilliant.\n2. Mastic in pulverized drops, 61 grm.; sanda-\nrac, in powder, 24 to 25 dkgrm.; Venetian tur-\npentine, 122 grm.; alcohol, 1 kilo.— La America\nCientifica e Industrial.\nCollodion Varnish.— Hale 1 s formula is as fol-\nlows: Amyl acetate, 4 gal.; beuzine (coal naph-\ntha), 4 gal. acetone, 2 gal. pyroxyline, 2^\nlb. The different ingredients are mixed and\nthe pyroxyline dissolved thei ein.\nThe metal article, having its surface polished\nand made free from water and grease by any\nordinary or suitable means, is or may be dip-\nped into a solution made according to either\nof the formula?, and on removal therefrom\nsuspended in a chamber out of the draught till\nthe adhering coat or film dries or hardens,\nwhich takes place in about 15 or 20 minutes.\nThe drying may be hastened by artificial heat,","height":"4343","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0724.jp2"},"717":{"fulltext":"Varnishes*\n.05\nVarnishes.\nand while the use of such heat at any stage of\nthe process is not inconsistent with the inven-\ntion, yet it; is preferred to operate in the cold\nthat is, at ordinary temperatures. Tn damp\nweather the coating should be dried at a tem-\nperature of say 100° to 105° Fah. The varnish\nor solution may also be applied by brushing.\nThe coated articles when the coatings are\ndry have their metal surfaces provided with a\nsubstantial, even, hard, thin, smooth, imper-\nvious, and transparent film of pyroxyline of\nsufficient tenacity, adhesion, and durability\npractically to resist the handling and exposure\nto which lacquered articles in general are sub-\njected.\nCopal Varnish— Melted copal, 600 grm.; mas-\ntic, 18 grm.; olibanum, 30 grm. The above\nsubstances are dissolved in essence of laven-\nder, 23 grm.; and then add linseed oil, 1 k.\nThe olibanum is a resinous gum extracted\nfrom a tree similar to the juniper, probably of\nthe species balsodendron, which grows in Ara-\nbia and India.\nCopal Varnish, Elastic— Gum camphor, 60\nparts copal, 250 parts ether, 700 parts. Keep\nin a bottle with a ground glass stopper use\nthe upper portion, which will become clear\nafter a few days, or possibly weeks. This sedi-\nment has a new portion of the mixed sub-\nstances added, the ether being in excess, only\none-half as much camphor and copal being\nadded.\nCopal Varnish, Volatile.— Pine copal broken\nsmall, 12 parts; ether, 2 parts; alcohol, 12 parts;\noil of turpentine, best quality, 8 to 9 parts.\nDrying Varnish for Furniture. Copal, 90\ngrm. sandarac, 100 grm.; mastic, 90 grm.;\nturpentine, 75 grm.; ground glass, 100 grm.;\nalcohol, 1 k.\nDurable Slow-drying Varnish.— 1. Sandarac,\n125 grm.; mastic in tears, 125 grm,; pulverized\nglass. 250 grm.; sulphuric ether, 250 grm.; 96$\nalec .1, 1 k. 500 grm.\n2. Varnish for objects exposed to friction,\nsuch as chairs, instrument cases, jambs, metals,\netc. Liquid copal, 9 dkgm.; sandarac, 18 to 19\ndkgm.; pure mastic, 9 dkgm.; ground glass,\n12 to 14 dkgm.; clear turpentine, 7 to 8 dkgm.;\nalcohol, 97 to 98 dkgm.\nEssence Varnish (Spanish).— Varnish for Pic-\ntures: Pure mastic, 360 grm.; turpentine, 45\ngrm.; camphor, 15 grm.; powdered glass, 150\ngrm.; spirits of turpentine, 1,100 grm.\nEtching Varnish.— Take of white wax, 2 oz.;\nblack and Burgundy pitch, each oz. Melt to-\ngether, adding by degrees 2 oz. powdered as-\nphaltum. Boil until a drop taken out on a plate\nwill break when cold. Pour into warm water,\nand make into small balls for use.\nSoft Varnish for Etchings.— Take linseed oil,\n4 oz.; gum benzoin and white wax, 14 oz. each.\nBoil to two-thirds.\nEther Varnish. Take 1 oz. of amber-colored\ncopal, finely powdered, and place it in a flask\ncontaining 4 oz. ether cork the flask with a\nglass stopper, and shake it for half an hour.\nLet it rest until the liquor becomes perfectly\nclear.\nFatty Varnish, for Painters.— Sandarac, 120\ngrm.; mastic, 30 grm.; Venetian turpentine, 6\ngrm.; boiled linseed oil or poppy oil, 750 grm.;\nspirits of turpentine, 90 grm.\nGlass, Varnish f or. 1. Terquem prepares a var-\nnish for glass, on which drawings can be made\neither with Indian ink or ordinary ink. Four\nparts of gum mastic and 8 parts of sandarac\nare placed in a well-closed bottle with 8 parts\nof 95$ alcohol, warmed in a water bath and\nthen filtered. When used, the glass is heated\nto from 122° to 140°, and the varnish poured\nover it. After the drawing is done, it is cover-\ned with a weak solution of gum. The varnish\nis very hard, and on warm glass it is brilliant\nand transparent, but when cold it is opaque,\nand absorbs the ink. It can be employed for\nputting labels on glass bottles, etc. A thin so-\nlution of gelatine applied to a plate of glass\nwhich is supported horizontally till dry, makes\na good surface for pen-and-ink drawings for\ntransparencies.\n2. Reduce a quantity of gum tragacanth to\npowder, let it dissolve for twenty-four hours\nin the white of eggs well beaten up rub it\ngently on the glass with a brush.\nGold Varnish.— 1. Amber, 240 to 250 grm.;\nlac, 60 grm.; boiled linseed oil, 240 to 250 grm.:\nspirits of turpentine, 480 to 490 grm.\n2. A permanent gold varnish, says a writer in\nThe Furniture Gazette, which does not lose its\ncolor by exposure to air and light, may be pre-\npared in the following manner Two oz. of\nthe best garancine or artificial alizarine are di-\ngested in a glass vessel with 6 oz. alcohol of spe-\ncific gravity 0 833 for twelve hours, pressed and\nfiltered. A solution of clear orange-colored\nshellac in similar alcohol is also prepared, filter-\ned, and evaporated until the lac has the consis-\ntence of a clear syrup; it is then colored with\nthe tincture of garancine. Objects coated with\nthis have a color which differs from that of\ngold only by a slight brownish tinge. The\ncolor may be more closely assimilated to that\nof gold by the addition of tincture of saffron.\n3. Gold Varnish for Leather.— Take 18 oz. of\nwhite resin, 10 oz. of common resin, 8 oz. of\naloes, in pieces, and put in an earthen vessel\nover a strong fire Avithout flame, stir, and when\ndissolved, add 2 pt. linseed oil, and boil gradual-\nly for six hours. For a deeper shade, add, while\nboiling, 1 oz. of red lead, or according to the\ncolor required. Try it by taking a little on a\nstick if it draws out in strings, it is done. To\nadd to the luster, gild the work with silver leaf\nbefore applying it.\nFurniture, Rubbing Varnish for.— Sandarac,\n250 grm.; mastic, 26 grm.; sarcbcolla, 25 grin.;\nVenetian turpentine, 30 grm. benzoin, 8 grm.;\nalcohol, 500 grm.\nThe sarcocolla is extracted from different\nshrubs comprised in the species of the same\nname, which grow principally in Senegal and\nthe Cape of Good Hope.\nIron, Varnish for. Melted colophony, 12\ndkgm.; sandarac, 18 dkgm.; lac, 6 dkgm.; spi-\nrits of turpentine, 12 dkgm. When this is all\ndissolved add: Distilled alcohol, 18 grm. This\nvarnish is an excellent preservative from oxi-\ndation.\nLeather Varnish.— Venice turpentine, 3 oz.;\nalcohol, 8 oz.; nigrosin, 30 gr.; aniline blue, 8\ngr. Dissolve the aniline colors in a little alco-\nhol before adding to the other ingredients.\nMordant Vari}ish— Take 1 oz. mastic, 1 oz.\nsandarac, ¥2 oz. gum gamboge, and *4 oz. tur-\npentine dissolve in 6 oz. spirits of turpentine.\nOr, place a quantity of boiled oil in a pan, and\nsubject it to a strong heat. When a black\nsmoke arises, set it on fire, and in a few mo-\nments extinguish it by covering over the pan\nthen pour the whole, while heated, into a bot-\ntle previously warmed, adding to it a little oil\nof turpentine.\nPhotographers, Varnish for.— M. Dumas l-ec-\nommends, in order to prevent the deteriora-\ntion of photographic drawings, that a boiling\nsolution of 1 part of dextrine in 5 parts of\nwater should be poured upon the plates, which\nwill deposit a thin coat of varnish sufficient to\neffect the desired object.\nPlaster Casts, Varnish for.— Take }4 oz. of tin,\ntogether with the same quantity of bismuth,\nand fuse in a crucible. When perfectly dis-\nsolved, add y z oz. of mercury. This substance,\nwhen mixed with the white of egg, forms a\nbeautiful varnish for plaster casts.\nPrints, to Varnish.— Dissolve 1 oz. of the best\nisinglass, or London single size, in 1 pt. of hot\nwater by boiling, strain it fine and keep it for\nuse. Add or diminish the isinglass or size till","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0725.jp2"},"718":{"fulltext":"Vinegars.\n706\nWax.\nit merely dulls the surface. Give the print two\nor three coats with a flat camel s hair brush,\nletting- it dry between each then with best\nmastic varnish, give it two coats.\nSpirit Varnish.— Shellac, 2 lb.; sandarac,\nlb.; gum thus, 6 oz.; alcohol, 1 gal. Dissolve\nand strain.\nTissue Paper, etc., Varnish for.— Add 2 parts\nof drying linseed oil to 1 of the solution of\nIndia rubber, and mix them by means of heat.\nApply warm on both sides of the paper.\nTransfer Varnish for Engravers.— Take 6J^\noz mastic in tears, 12J^ oz. resin, and of genu-\nine pale Venice turpentine and sandarac of each\n25 oz. Dissolve, add 1 qt. turpentine var-\nnish, agitate well and strain.\nTransparencies, Varnisji for. Dissolve wax in\noil of turpentine.\nWaterproof Varnish for Boots. 1. Ozokerite\n(hard parafline), 1 part; castor oil, 2 parts; lamp\nblack, 1 part. Mix. 2. Salad oil, 1 pt.; mutton\nsuet, 4 oz.; white wax and spermaceti, of each\n1 oz. Melt together and apply to the boots\nwarmed. 3. Spermaceti, 3 oz.; melt and add\nIndia rubber in thin shavings, oz.; when\ndissolved add tallow, 8 oz.; lard, 2 oz.; amber\nvarnish, 4 oz. Mix well, and while still warm\napply with a brush.\nWaterproof Varnish for Leather, Carriage\nTops, etc.— Eight oz. olive oil, 1 oz. ivory black,\n1 oz. beeswax dissolve in 4 oz. turpentine, mix\ntogether and apply when required.\nWhite Shellac Varnish.— Dissolve 1 part pearl-\nash in about 8 parts water add 1 part shellac,\nand heat the whole to the boiling point. When\nthe lac is dissolved, cool the solution, and satu-\nrate »it with chlorine until the lac has all settled.\nWhen it is dissolved in alcohol, it forms a var-\nnish which is as transparent as any copal var-\nnish.— Fortsch. der Zeit.\nWhiteVamish, susceptible to polish for jambs,\nlintels, etc Mastic in drops, 12 to 13 dkgm.;\nsandarac, 48 to 49 dkgm.; elemi, 6 dkgm.; Ve-\nnetian turpentine, 2 liters alcohol, 2.\nWood, Varnish for.— Linseed oil, 75 dkgm.;\namber, 50dkgm.; pulverized litharge, 16 dkgm.;\npulverized red lead, 92 dkgm. This varnish,\nwell applied, resists the action of boiling-\nwater.\nVarnish for Rosewood, etc.— Put together in\na tin can, 1 gal. rectified alcohol, 12 oz. mastic\nand 1 pt. turpentine varnish, and keep them in\na very warm place, shaking them now and then\nuntil they are perfectly dissolved strain, and\nthe mixture is tit for use. If necessary, dilute\nwith turpentine varnish.\nVarnish for Unpainted Work.— Quarter of a\npt. of wood naphtha, J4 pt- alcohol, 4 oz. ben-\nzoin, 4 oz. orange shellac dissolve all together.\nWriting Varnish, Imperishable.— Take oil of\nFrench lavender, Y 2 oz.; gum copal, in powder,\n30 gr.; lampblack, 5 gr.; place these materials\ntogether in a phial, which then put into scald-\ning water. In a short time the copal will melt,\nand, if agitated, the whole will form one uni-\nform fluid, which can be used for writing with\na camel s hair pencil. This composition is very\nuseful for writing the labels on bottles or jars\ncontaining strong acids or other corroding sub-\nstances also for gardeners flower labels, as it\nis in nowise influenced by water likewise for\nmarking- jars containing preserves, as well as\nfor damp cellar stock.\nVinegars.— Camphor Vinegar. Camphor,\n1 part alcohol, 9 parts acetic acid, dilute, 90\nparts. Make a clear solution.\nRaspberry Vinegar.— Take raspberries, 1 lb.;\nrub down with sugar, 5 lb.; and add vinegar, 1\ngal. Let stand twenty-four hour s, agitate oc-\ncasionally and strain.\nWall Coating.— The Gewerbe-Blatt, of Zu-\nrich, gives a receipt for a solution said to pre-\nvent the action of moist atmosphere upon\nwalls. A wall exposed to cold and moisture\nshould be, it says, coated with a compound of\n)b. of soap dissolved in 10 lb. of boiling water,\ncare being taken in applying it to avoid the for-\nmation of bubbles. A little alcohol assists in\ndissolving the froth, and causes the solution to\npenetrate deeper into the wall. A second coat-\ning is added after twenty-f our hours, composed\nof a solution of sulphate of alumina, about y%\nlb. in 30 lb. of water. The coating obtained is,\nit is added, impermeable. If the first coat is\nnot dry and hard in twenty-f our hours, it must\nbe left a longer time.\nWalls, Stopping for.— Mix fine sifted lime and\nplaster of Paris. When applied and dry. rub\ndown with glass or sand paper, spread over a\nlevel board, then dust for sizing.\nWater, Distilled. See Distillery, Po rt-\nable.\nWaterproofing.- Boots.— 1. One part ozo-\nkerit in 2 parts castor oil, and 1 part lamp\nblack added, makes an excellent application,\nas the boots will take a thin polish after.\n2. Salad oil, 1 pt.; mutton suet, 4 oz.; white\nwax and spermaceti, of each 1 oz.; melted to-\ngether and applied to the boots warmed before\nthe fire.\n3. Much used by fishermen Melt 3 oz. sper-\nmaceti in a ladle, and add oz rubber, cut\ninto thin shavings. When dissolved, add y% lb.\ntallow, 2 oz. pure lard, and 4 oz. amber varnish.\nMix well, and while still warm apply with a\nbrush, giving two or three coats. It leaves a\ngood polish, and is preservative as well as being\nwaterproof.\nSee also Varnishes.\nWaterproof Coating for Walls.— The follow-\ning coating has proved very effective in pre-\nventing the penetration of moisture on the\nweather side of walls: Pitch, 50 lb.; resin, 30\nlb.; red ocher, 6 lb.; fine brick dust, 12 lb.; all\nboiled together with constant stirring, and then\nsufficient oil of turpentine— about J4 the vol-\nume of the above— added, to cause it to spread\nreadily. It should be laid on as thin as possi-\nble with a bristle brush.\nWax.— Hardening of Wax. Tallow will not\nharden. Use resin with wax 10 to 20 parts\nwill make it much harder and fairly tough.\nWax, Milk of,— Melt in a porcelain capsule a\ncertain quantity of white wax, and add to it\nwhile in fusion an equal quantity of spirits of\nwine, of sp. gr. 0*830. Stir the mixture, and\npour it upon a large porphyry slab. The granu-\nlar mass is to be converted into a paste by the\nmuller, with the addition from time to time of\na little alcohol. As soon as it appears to be\nsmooth and homogeneous, water is to be intro-\nduced, in small quantities, successively, to the\namount of four times the weight of the wax.\nStrain through canvas.\nWax Sheets, to Make.—l have used the fol-\nlowing plan for the last fifteen years After\nthe wax is properly cleaned, get four pieces of\nglass cut the width you want to have your\nsheets and about ten inches long. Any deep\nvessel, such as a dinner pail or an old oyster\ncan, will serve to melt the wax. Put the pieces\nof glass in a pail of cold water when the wax\nis melted, take two pieces of the glass, one in\neach band, and dip alternately, one cooling\nwhile you dip the other (about three or four\ndips is sufficient), then drop into the cold wa-\nter. Let these two remain till you dip the\nother two in the same manner. By trimming\nthe edges off the glass with a knife, the sheets\nwill drop off themselves. If the wax is kept\ntoo hot, the sheets will be too thin if too cold,\nthey will be lumpy and thick. Near the setting\nor cooling point is the proper temperature.\nA tablespoon! ul of Venice turpentine to three\nor four pounds of wax will toughen it. This\nshould be evaporated to dryness like resin. It\ncan sometimes be obtained in drug stores in","height":"4294","width":"2591","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0726.jp2"},"719":{"fulltext":"Welding.\nm\n*Vines.\nthis form. It will answer the purpose even if\nused thin, but the thicker it is the tougher will\nbe the wax sheets.— Dr. BeacocK, Dom. Dent.\nJour.\nWelding Powder.— An excellent powder\nfor welding- wrought iron is described by a\nGerman contemporary. It consists of borax,\n50% ammonium chloride, 25^ and water, 25%.\nThis mixture is boiled, being at the same time\ncontinuously stirred until it is reduced to a\nstiff mass, which is then held over a fire until\nit becomes hard. When cold, the mixture is\nwell pulverized and assimilated with one-third\npart of rust-free wrought iron filings. The\npieces to be welded are first dovetailed or other-\nwise connected the welding parts are then\nheated to redness, when the powder is strewn\nover them and allowed to liquefy over the fire.\nOnly very slight blows are then required to\nconsummate the perfect conjunction of the\npieces.\nWood, Photographing on. See Pho-\ntography.\nWoods, Strength of. The strength of\ndifferent woods to resist a compressive strain\ndepends upon the value of the absolute force\nor weight which has been found by experiment\nto crush them, and which has a very wide\nrange. The annexed table shows the crushing\nweight for all the woods which are used in the\nvarious branches of constructive art, and from\nthese numbers and simple rules it will be easy\nto calculate the strength of pillars of different\nlengths and sizes.\nDescription\nof Timber.\nAlder\nAsh\nBirch\nBeech\nBox\nElm\nEbony.\nHornbeam\nLarch\nMahogany\nOak\nn\nPine (Bed)\nPine\nSycamore\nSpruce\nTeak\nWatergum\nr q t- cs\no3 as 5\n61-50\n80\n104\n83\n92\n92\n170\n65\n50\n73\n89-25\n53-50\n68*75\n5175\n48\n63- £5\n61\n108\n90\n33\nft\n15*40\n20\n26\n21\n23\n23\n42-25\n16-25\n12-50\n18-25\n22 25\n13-40\n17 20\n13\n12\n15-80\n15-25\n27\n22-50\nTimber,\nwhere\nGrown.\nEngland.\nAmerica.\nWest Indies.\nAmerica.\nEngland.\nHonduras.\nEngland.\nCanada.\nDantzig.\nAmerica.\nThe Baltic.\nEngland.\nAmerica-\nAfrica.\nEast Tndies.\nWorkshops, to Lessen Noise in.— In\nworkshops of several stories it is sometimes\ndesirable to check the noise transmitted\nthrough the floors to the apartments below\nthis may be done by the use of rubber cushions\nunder the legs of the work bench, or of kegs of\nsand or sawdust applied in the same way. A\nfew inches of sand or sawdust is, as described\nby a contemporary, first poured into each keg\non this is laid a board or block upon which the\nleg rests, and around the leg and block is pour-\ned fine dry sand or sawdust. Noise and shock\nare prevented; and an ordinary anvil so\nmounted may be used in a dwelling house with-\nout annoying the inhabitants.\nWines. Clarification. If the wine is not\nclear and bright after racking, it is necessary\nto clarify it. There are many causes which in-\nterfere with the proper brightness of wine,\nsuch as changes of temperature, in care-\nless racking, and others. Some wines clear\nthemselves, so that clarification need not be\nresorted to. A great many different sub-\nstances have been employed in clarification.\nMany of the so-called clarifying powders are\nnothing but dried blood albumen. Isinglass\nor fish glue is one of the best agents for clari-\nfication. It is dissolved in water until little\nmore fluid than molasses. Gelatine pi-epared\nfrom bone is also used and may be obtained in\nsheets or in small pieces and sometimes in tab-\nlets. It is one of the best agents that can be\nused in clarifying, and is especially valuable for\nclarifying white wine. After wine has been\nclarified with the gelatine it should be racked\nafter standing a short time. Blood albumen\naffords a cheap and efficient means of clarify-\ning the wine in large quantities. A gallon of\nblood beaten up with a gallon of the same\nkind of wine which it is desired to clarify wtll\nclarify 200 gallons of wine. Great care should\nbe taken to have the blood fresh, as otherwise\nit is sure to injure, if not entirely destroy, the\nwine. It is especially successful in clarifying\nnew wine. In case the wine loses a portion of\nits color, it can be readily restored by an ad-\ndition of the usual coloring matters.\nMilk is used to some extent in place of the\nblood, but it is not as reliable. If the wine is\nof great value, the whites of eggs afford the\nbest means of clarifying it, and should be used\nin all cases where expense is not an object. No\npains should be spared to see that the eggs are\nentirely fresh, as otherwise the wines would be\ndestroyed. The whites of the eggs are particu-\nlarly efficient for white wine. The proper pro-\nportion is 1 egg per 10 gal. They should be\nbeaten up with a small portion of wine with\nan egg beater, before adding to the wine. Gum\narabic is also used, but is not as good as the\nwhite of egg or blood. Salt, alcohol and tan-\nnin, and many other substitutes have been\nused with varying success. The ones already\nmentioned will give the best satisfaction.\nYelloiv White Wines. The yellow color of\nwhite wines frequently stands in the way of\ntheir ready sale. It is removed by the blood\nalbumen receipt given under clarification\nabove. The receipt given under clarification\nof wines can also be used to bring white wine\nwhich has turned yellow back to its normal\ncolor.\nEarthy Flavor of Wines. This defect in\nwines is apt to interfere seriously with their\nsale, as the taste is particularly disagreeable.\nIt may be the result of several causes. The\nvineyards may not be properly cared for, or in\nlow, wet land. The treatment of wines which\nhave the earthy flavor requires much judgment\nand experience. Wines should be promptly\nclarified by the means already given, and fre-\nquently racked. The white of egg receipt\ngiven under clarification is the best one to use\nfor this defect. The addition of a small quan-\ntity of tannin dissolved in alcohol will also\nhelp to correct this defect.\nGreenness, This defect gives a very sour,\nunpleasant taste to the wine, owing to the\nmalic and tartaric acids, which are in excess.\nThere is no ordinary defect of wine which is\nmore noticeable and more disagreeable than\ngreenness. As its name implies, it is frequently\ncaused by the use of unripe grapes. The treat-\nment of the wine must be varied according to\nthe taste. One of the various methods is to\nadd from 1 to 3 qt. of old brand y to every 100 gal.\nof wine. Potassium tartrate affords a cheap\nand easy method of neutralizing the tartaric\nacid, forming potassium bitartrate, which may\nbe afterward removed, when the wine is right.\nThe amount of potassium tartrate which may\nbe vised varies with the sourness of the wine,\nbut 18 oz. per 100 gal. would be considered an\naverage amount. Various other substitutes\nhave been tried, but none are as successful as\npotassium tartrate.","height":"4296","width":"2632","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0727.jp2"},"720":{"fulltext":"Wines.\n708\nZapon.\nRoughness of Wine.— When tannin is in ex-\ncess, the wine is said to be rough, but this de-\nfect, if defect it can be called, disappears in\ntime, the tannin being gradually transformed\ninto gallic acid. If it is desired to remove the\nroughness at once, try fining by means of gela-\ntine, 1 oz. to every 30 to 40 gal. A portion of\nthe color is very apt to be removed from the\nwine.\nSourness of Wine.— Sourness is distinct from\ngreenness, being due to the presence of minute\nquantities of acetic acid, instead of tartaric\nacid, and although all wines contain more or\nless acetic acid, the instant it becomes in excess\nthe wine becomes sour and unsalable. It\nshould be clarified by either the blood albumen\nor by the gelatine method. It should then be\nracked. Intense sourness renders the wine un-\nfit for aging.\nAcidity in Wine. This serious defect of\nwine may be the result of several causes, either\nthe use of old and worn-out casks or badly ven-\ntilated cellars. There are several substances\nwhich neutralize acidity in wine. Magne-\nsium carbonate and potassium tartrate and\nseveral others are used. They should be used\nin px-eference to the cheaper methods of using\npowdered chalk, marble, plaster, etc. To every\n100 gal of wine 10 oz. of magnesium carbonate\nshould be added a little at a time, mixing\nthoroughly.\nDetannated Orange Wine. (Vinum Aurantii\nDetannatum.)- Take of orange wine, 1 gal.;\ngelatine, cut small, 2 oz. Macerate for 14 days\nand decant.\nDetannated Sherry. (Vinum, Xericum Detan-\nnatum.)— Take of sherry, 1 gal.; gelatine, cut\nsmall, 2 oz. Macerate for 14 days and decant.\nZapon. See Lacquers,","height":"4343","width":"2657","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0728.jp2"},"721":{"fulltext":"CONDENSED CATALOGUE OF\nSCIENTIFIC AND TECHNICAL BOOKS,\nIMPORTED AND FOR SALE BY\nMUNN CO., 361 Broadway, N. Y.\nAccumulators, Voltaic, Reynier s.\n8vo .$3.00\nAgriculture in Relation to Chem-\nistry. Prof. Storer. 2vols.,8vo.. 5.00\nAlloys, Mixed Metals. Hiorns, 16mo... 1.50\nAluminum. J. TV. Richards. 8vo. 5.00\nAnalysis. Fresenius Qualitative. 8vo. 4.00\nAnalysis. Fresenius Quantitative. 8vo. 6.00\nArchitecture. Palliser s American.\n4to, paper 1.00\nArchitect s Pocket Book. Kidder s.\nLeather, tuck 3.50\nArchitecture, Rosengarten s styles of.\n8vo, splendidly illustrated 2.75\nArchitecture, History of the modern\nstyles of. By J. Fergusson. 2 vols. 10.00\nArt Dictionary. Adeline s Art Dic-\ntionary. 2,000 illustrations. 12mo... 2.25\nAstronomy, the New. S. P. Langley.. 3.50\nAstronomy, Newcomb s. 8vo 2.50\nAstronomy with an Opera Glass. G.\nP.Serviss. 8vo 1.50\nBallooning. G.May 1.00\nBatteries. H. S. Carhart 1.50\nBeer, Manufacture of. J. E Thausig.\n8vo 10.00\nBeverages. C. H. Sulz. 8vo 10.00\nBlacksmithing, Practical. 4 vols.,\n12mo, with practical illustrations.\nEach volume 1.00\nBoiler Catechism. R. Grimshaw 2.00\nBoiler Maker s Pocket Book. Sex-\nton s. Leather 2.00\nBoilers, Manual of. R. H. Thur-\nston, C. E. 8vo 6.00\nBookbinding. J.Nicholson. 12mo.. 2.25\nBoat Building for amateurs. Plates.\n12mo 2.00\nBricks, Tiles and Terra Cotta. C.\nT. Davies. 8vo 5.00\nBuilder s Guide and Estimator s\nPrice Book 2.00\nBuilding Superintendence. T. M.\nClark. 8vo 3.00\nBuilding Construction. Parts Land\nII. Eacn 3.50\nPart III 6.00\nBusiness Educator, Payne s. 12mo. 2.00\nCarpentry, Progressive. By D. H. Me-\nloy 1.00\nCarpentry Made Easy, Bell s, 8vo 5.00\nCarpentry Practical, Hodgson 1 .00\nCasting and Founding. N. E. Spret-\nson. 8vo 6.00\nCements, Lime and Mortar. Gen.\nGillmore. 8vo 4.00\nChemist s Pocket Book, Bayley s.\nLeather 2.00\nChemical Technology, Wagner.\n8vo 5.00\nChemistry, Bloxham s. 8vo 3.75\nChemistry, Industrial Organic. S. P.\nSadtler. 8vo $5.00\nChemistry, Fownes Sheep 3.75\nCivil Engineering, Mahan s. 8vo... 5.00\nCivil Engineer s Pocket Book,\nTrautwine s. Leather, tuck 5 00\nCivil Service, Help Manual 1 .00\nConcrete. H. Reid. 8vo 6.00\nCook Book. Mrs. Rorers 1.75\nCottage Homes and Details. Palliser\nCo. 4to 4.00\nCrystallography. Prof. G. H. Wil-\nliams 1.50\nCyclopedia, Self -Aid, Ward Lock s 3.00\nCyclopedic Science Simplified, Prof.\nPepper. 12mo 2.50\nDecoration, Interior. 4to 3.00\nDictionary, Mechanical Terms 3.00\nDrawing Architectural, Practical 2.50\nDrawing, Mechanical. By C. W. Mac-\nCord. Paper, $2.50. Cloth 3.50\nDrawing, Self -Taught. Joshua Rose.\n8vo 4.00\nDyer s Companion. F. J. Bird. 8vo. 10.00\nDynamo, How to Make. A. Crofts 80\nDynamo Electric Machines. S. P.\nThompson. 8vo 5.00\nDynamo Electricity. G. B. Pres-\ncott. 8vo 5.00\nDynamo Electric Machines. K.\nHering 2.50\nDynamo Construction. J. W. Urqu-\nhart 3.00\nExplosives, Modern. M.Eissler. 12mo. 4.00\nElectric Batteries. A. Niaudet 2.50\nElectric Bells. S. R. Bottone 50\nElectric Deposition of Metals.\nWatts. 12mo 3.50\nElectric Light. P. Atkinson 1.50\nElectric Tra nsmissio n of E nergy.\nG. Kapp. 12mo 3.00\nElectrical Dictionary. E. J. Hous-\nton. 12mo 2.50\nElectrical Engineer s Pocket\nBook. H. R. Kempe 2.00\nElectrical Engineer, Tables for. F.\nWalker. Leather 80\nElectrical Instrument making for\namateurs. S. R. Bottone 50\nElectricity in the service of man. Ur-\nbanitzky. 8vo 6.00\nElectricity and Magnetism. J. E.\nH.Gordon. 2 vols. 8vo 10.00\nElectricity, Arithmetic of. By Dr. T.\nO C. Sloane 1.00\nElectricity Simplified. By Dr. T.\nO C.Sloane 1.00\nElectricity for Engineers. C. Des-\nmond 2.50\nElectricity and Magnetism. Guil-\nlemin 8.00","height":"4238","width":"2623","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0729.jp2"},"722":{"fulltext":"Electro Deposition\nBrannt\nElectricity, Practical. W. E. Ayrton.\n12mo $2.50\nElectro-Metallurgy. G. Gore....... 2.00\nElectro-Plating. Urquhart. 12mo.. 2.00\nof Metals.\n4.00\nElectrotyping. Urquhart. 12mo 2.00\nElectrolysis. H.Fontaine 3.50\nEngineer s Calculator, Dixon s.\nLeather 2.00\nEngineer s and Mechanic s Poc-\nket Book. C. E. Haswell. 115th\nthousand. Russia, tuck 4.00\nEngineer s Hand Book. Searles. Lea-\nther, tuck 3.00\nEngineer s Handy Book, Roper s.\nLeather, tuck 3.50\nEngineers, Questions and Answers for. 3.00\nEngineer s Own Book, Roper s. Lea-\nther, tuck 3.00\nEngines, Hand Book of, Roper s. Lea-\nther, tuck 3.50\nExperimental Science. G. M. Hop-\nkins. See last page of book 4.00\nFacts Worth Knowing. Dr. T.\nO C. Sloane. 8vb 3.50\nGas and Petroleum Engines. 8vo. 5.50\nGems and Precious Stones of North\nAmerica. G. F. Kunz, Gem Expert... 10.00\nGeology, Text Book of. J. D. Dana. 5.00\nGlass Blowing, for Amateurs. Cloth .80\nGold. A. G. Lock. Large 8vo 20.00\nHot Water Heating. W. J. Bald-\nwin 4.00\nHouse Plans, Leffel s. 4to 2.00\nHousehold Management, Beeton s 3.00\nIncandescent Wiring Hand\nBook 1.00\nInventor s Manual, or How to Make\naPatentPay 1.00\nLathes. P. N. Hasluck. 12mo 2.00\nLeather, Manufacture of. C. T. Davies.\n8vo 10.00\nLight. L.Wright. Colored plates. 12mo. 2.50\nLight. J. Tyndall 1.50\nLink and Valve Motion. Auchin-\nloss. Plates, 8vo 3.00\nLocomotive, Catechism of. M.\nN. Forney. New and enlarged edition. 3.50\nLocomotive Running. A. Sinclair. 2.00\nMachine Design. C. Unwin. 12mo.. 2.00\nMachinist, Complete Practical.\nJ.Rose 2.50\nMagic Lantern. 12mo 1.50\nMagician s Own Book 1.50\nMechanic, Every Man His Own, 925\npages 3.50\nMechanics and Artisans, Hand\nBook for. O.Byrne. 8vo 5.00\nMechanics, Applied. Rankine. 12mo. 5.00\nMechanic s Own Book. Spon s. 8vo. 2.50\nMechanic s Pocket Book. Nystrom s.\nLeather, tuck 3.50\nMechanic s Workshop, The Ama-\nteur. 8vo 3.00\nMetallurgy. F. Overmann. 8vo 5.00\nMetallurgy of Silver and Gold. T.\nEgleston. 2 vols. 8vo 15.00\nMetric Measures, Dictionary of 2.50\nMicroscope. J.Hogg. 12mo 3.50\nMicroscope, Working with the. L.\nBeale. 8vo 7.50\nMicroscope, Evenings with the. 12mo. $1.50\nMineralogy, Manual of. D. Dana.\n12mo 2.00\nMineralogy, Text Book of. Dana.\n8vo 3.50\nMinerals, Mines and Mining. H.\nC. Osborn 4.50\nMotors, Electric. S. R. Bottone 75\nMoulding and Founding. F. Over-\nman. 12mo 2.00\nOils, Animal and Vegetable. W. T.\nBrannt. 8vo 7.50\nOptical Projection. L.Wright 2.25\nOrgan Building for Amateurs. M.\nWickes. 12mo 1.50\nPainter s, Gilder s and Varnisher s\nCompanion 1.50\nPaper, Manufacture of. J.T.Davis... 6.00\nPattern Maker s Assistant. By\nJoshua Rose. 12mo 2.50\nPattern Maker s Handbook. P.\nN. Hasluck. 12mo 80\nPharmacist s Pocket Book. Lea-\nther 2.00\nPhoto Engraving. W. T. Wilkin-\nson. 12mo 3.00\nPhotography, Amateur. By Eiiers-\nlie Wallace. 12mo.... 1.00\nPhysics. Anthony Brackett. 8vo.. 4.00\nPhysics. E. P. Deschanel. 4 vols 6.00\nPhysics. Ganot s large. 12mo 5.00\nPhysics. Poplar Natural Philosophy.\n12mo 3.00\nPlumbing. C. T. Davies. 8vo 3.00\nPrinting Machinery. F. J. F. Wil-\nkinson 10.00\nPumps, Grimshaw s Catechism of.\n12mo 1.00\nRailway Location. A. M. Welling-\nton. 8vo. Cloth 5.00\nRecreations. Popular Scientific. Tis-\nsandier. Large 8vo 4.00\nScience, Home Experiments in. Dr. T.\nO C. Sloane. 12mo 1.50\nScience, Playbook of. Prof. Pepper.\n12mo.... 2.00\nScientific American Reference\nHandbook. Cloth 25\nScrew Threads. P. N. Hasluck 60\nSilver, Metallurgy of. 12mo 4.25\nSoap and Candles. W. T. Brannt.\n8vo 7.50\nSound. Tyndall. 12mo 2.00\nSteam Engine Catechism, Grim-\nshaw s 2.00\nSteam Engine. Rankine. 12mo, 5.00\nSteam Engines. J.Rose. 4to 6.00\nSteam Engineering, Constructive.\nJ. M. Whithan (1891). 8vo 10.00\nSteel Square. F. Hodgson. 2 parts.\nEach 1.00\nSugar. A. G. Lock. 8vo 10.00\nSurveying, Johnson s. 8vo 4.00\nSurveying, Gillespie s. 8vo 3.50\nTaxidermy. Hornaday 2.50\nTelephone. G. B. Prescott. 8vo.... 6.00\nToy Making for Amateurs. J. Lukin. 2.00\nVinegar. W. T. Brannt. 8vo 5.00\nWatchmaker s Handbook 3.50\nWater Supply Engineering. B. F.\nFanning 5.00\nWire, Its Manufacture and Uses. By\nJ.B.Smith 3.00","height":"4294","width":"2566","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0730.jp2"},"723":{"fulltext":"THE SCIENTIFIC AMERICAN.\nTHE MOST POPULAE SCIENTIFIC PAPER IN THE WORLD.\nESTABLISHED 1845.\nThis unrivaled periodical, which is now in its forty-seventh year, continues to maintain its\nhigh reputation for excellence, and enjoys the largest circulation ever attained by any scientific\npublication in any country. Every number contains sixteen large pages, beautifully printed,\nelegantly illustrated it presents in popular style a descriptive record of the most novel, inter-\nesting and important advances in Science, Arts and Manufactures.\nThe Scientific American should have a place in every Dwelling, Shop, Office, School or\nLibrary. People in every walk and profession in life will derive satisfaction and benefit from a\nregular reading of The scientific American.\nInventors find in The Scientific American all necessary instructions how to secure Letters\nPatent for their inventions excellent illustrations and descriptions of the best inventions made\nin this country and in Europe y an official weekly list of all Patents granted, discussions of\nquestions concerning the Patent Laws of the United States, reports of trials in courts, etc.\nAll classes of readers will find in The Scientific American a popular resume of the best\nscientific information of the day, which it is the aim of the publishers to present in an attractive\nform.\nWeekly, $3.00 a Year. $1.50 Six Months.\nARCHITECTS and BUILDERS EDITION.\n$2.50 a Year. Single Copies, 25 Cent*.\nThis is a special Edition of The Scientific American, issued monthly— on the first day of\nthe month. Each number contains about forty large quarto pages, equal to about two hundred\nordinary book pages, forming, practically, a large and splendid Magazine of Architecture richly\nadorned with elegant plates in colors and with fine engravings illustrating the most interesting-\nexamples of modern Architectural Construction and allied subjects.\nA special feature is the presentation in each number of a variety of the latest and best plans\nfor private residences, city and country, including those of very moderate cost as well as the\nmore expensive. Drawings in perspective and in color are given, together with full Plans, Speci-\nfications, Costs, and Sheets of Details.\nNo other building paper contains so many plans, details, and specifications regularly pre-\nsented as the Builders Edition. Hundreds of dwellings have already been erected on the vari-\nous plans we have issued, and many others are in process of construction.\nThe fullness, richness, cheapness, and convenience of this work have won for it the largest\ncirculation of any architectural publication in the world.\nThe Scientific American Supplement.\nThe Scientific American Supplement is a large and splendid periodical, issued every week.\nEach number contains sixteen large quarto pages, profusely illustrated with engravings. Fifty-\ntwo numbers a year. Uniform in size with the Scientific American. The Supplement is,\nhoAvever, separately paged, distinctive in character, and forms a most valuable independent\npublication.\nThe contents of The Scientific American Supplement embrace a very wide range, cover-\ning the most recent and valuable papers by eminent writers in all the principal departments of\nScience and Useful Knowledge, to wit Chemistry and Metallurgy; Mechanics and Engineering;\nElectricity, Light, Heat, Sound; Architecture Technology; Agriculture, Horticulture and\nBotany; Rural and Household Economy; Materia Medica, Therapeutics, Hygiene Natural His-\ntory, Biology, etc. Meteorology, Geography; Geology and Mineralogy Astronomy.\nAll the back numbers of The Supplement, from commencement, January 1,1876, can be had.\nPrice, 10 cents each. Send for Supplement Catalogue.\nAll the back volumes of The Supplement can likewise be supplied. Two volumes are issued\nyearly. Price of each volume, $2.50, stitched in paper, or $3.50 bound in stiff covers.\nPrice for the Supplement, $5.00 a Year, or one copy of The Scienti-\nfic American and one of Supplement, both mailed to one address, for one\nyear, for $7.00. Remit by postal order or check.\nSnanisli Edition of the Scientific American.\nLa America Cientifica e Industrial (Spanish Trade Edition of The Scientific Ameri-\ncan) is published monthly, uniform in size and typography with The Scientific American.\nEvery number of La America is profusely illusti-ated. It circulates throughout Cuba, the\nWest Indies, Mexico, Central and South America, Spain and Spanish Possessions— wherever the\nSpanish language is spoken.\n$3.00 a Year, post paid to any part of the world. Single Copies, 25 Cents.\nIYIUNN CO., Publishers, 361 Broadway, New York.","height":"4230","width":"2608","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0731.jp2"},"724":{"fulltext":"u I\nExperimental Sera:\nBy GEO. M. HOPKINS.\n740 Pages. Over 680 Illustrations. Elegantly Bound in Cloth.\nPrice, by mail, postpaid, $4.00.\nThis is a book full of interest and value for teachers, students and others who\ndesire to impart or obtain a practical knowledge of physics.\nWhat the Press says of Experimental Science.\nMr. Hopkins has rendered a valuable service to experimental physics. Evening Post.\n-f i l?£ e ,i b 00 is one of very Practical character, and no one of a scientific turn of mind could\nfail to find in its pages a fund of valuable information. -Electric Age.\nThe electrical chapters of the book are\nnotably good, and the practical instruction\ngiven for building simple electrical machinery\nmay be safely carried out by those— not a few—\nwho like to make their own apparatus. Elec-\ntrical World.\nThe author has avoided repeating the\nhackneyed illustrations which have been passed\nfrom one book to another so long, and, instead,\noffers a set of experiments which are largely\nof a novel character and very striking.\nEngineering and Mining Journal.\nWe commend it most heartily to all\nteachers. Normal Exponent.\nTt is a treat to read a book of this kind,\nthat sets forth the principles of physics so fully\nand without the use of mathematics. The\nLocomotive.\nAll teachers of science are aware that real\nknowledge is acquired best by the student mak-\ning experiments for himself, and any one who\npoints out how those experiments may be\neasily made is doing excellent work. English\nMechanic and World of Science.\nThe work bears the stamp of a writer who\nwrites nothing but with certainty of action\nand result, and of a teacher who imparts scien-\ntific information in an attractive and fascinat-\ning manner. A merican Engineer.\nIt should be found in every library.\nEnglish Mechanic.\nThe portion of the book devoted to dynamic electricity covers over one hundred pages*\nand is extremely interesting and valuable. Brooklyn Standard-Union.\nDirections are given for demonstrating most of the laws of physics, with every-day tools\nand common appliances. American Photographer.\nMany of the experiments are new to print, while some of the old, familiar ones appear in\nmodified form and with simplified apparatus. Public Opinion.\nThe book would be a most judicious holiday gift. 1 Engineering and Miming Journal.\nMr. Thomas A. Edison says The practical character of the physical apparatus, the clearness\nof the descriptive matter, and its entire freedom from mathematics, give the work a value in\nmy mind superior to any other work on elementary physics of which I am aware.\nProf. D. W. Hering, University of the City of New York, says I know of no work that\nis at the same time so popular in style and so scientific in character.\nProf. W. J. Rolfe, of Cambridgeport, Mass., writes: The book is by far the best thing of\nthe kind I have seen, and T can commend it most cordially and emphatically.\nHundreds of cordial recommendations from eminent Professors aid Scientific men.\nMUNN CO., Publishers of the Scientific American,\n361 BROADWAY, NEW YORK.\nSend for our New and Complete Catalogue of Books; sent free to any address.\nLRBAp","height":"4294","width":"2566","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0732.jp2"},"725":{"fulltext":"T","height":"4172","width":"2466","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0733.jp2"},"726":{"fulltext":"","height":"4294","width":"2566","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0734.jp2"},"727":{"fulltext":"","height":"4213","width":"2374","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0735.jp2"},"728":{"fulltext":"","height":"4294","width":"2566","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0736.jp2"},"729":{"fulltext":"","height":"4188","width":"2283","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0737.jp2"},"730":{"fulltext":"","height":"4195","width":"2267","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0738.jp2"},"731":{"fulltext":"","height":"4188","width":"2283","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0739.jp2"},"732":{"fulltext":"","height":"4444","width":"2700","jp2-path":"scientificameri00hopk_0740.jp2"}}