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THE STANISLAUS MINE
PERSONAL ADVENTURES
IN
UPPER
AND
LOWER CALIFORNIA,
IN 1848-9;
ILLUSTRATED BY TWENTY-THREE DRAWINGS, TAKEN ON
THE SPOT.
BY
WILLIAM REDMOND RYAN.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
WILLIAM SHOBERL, PUBLISHER,
20, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1851.
F. Shoberl, Jun., Printer to HRH Prince Albert, Rupert Street, Haymarket.
CHAPTER XVII.
The first night at the “diggins”—The gold pockets or “diggins”—Trading posts—Speculation—An old acquaintance—News of old friends—Fortune capricious even in California—Gold-digging hard work—Sonoreans “dry-washing” for gold—Quality of the ore—Exploration of the mine—The source of the precious deposits—Morals of the miners or diggers—Doctor Dan—Another old acquaintance—Intelligence from other mines—The North Fork—Sutter's Fort and Mill—Shirt-washing more profitable than gold-washing—Halliday's ill luck
CHAPTER XVIII.
Gold-digging and gold-washing—Reflections and moralizings put to flight—My first attempt at gold-washing—Further account of the Stanislaus Mine—The Mormon Diggins, and Carson's Creek—The Indians—An end to my mining fit—I turn trader—Removal up the mine—Start for Stocton—The town of Stocton—Paper at a premium—Robberies and murders—My friend Burke—Additional particulars respecting the mines—News of O'reilly—Doings at the Macalamo—Lynch law—Resolution to leave Stocton
CHAPTER XIX.
“Pencillings by the way,” by Mr. Weaver—Crossing of the San Joachin—Loss of my steed—A fit of despondency—“Toolie” house on the river—An unchristian and uncharitable “Dean”—Taken for a suspicious
CHAPTER XX.
Accommodation for man and beast—The tinman's rise in the world—Relative advantages of San Francisco and Monterey—Future prospects of California—A bad exchange—Jemmy Cullen, the Irish Blacksmith—Might versus right—A black diamond of the first water—Hector Moncrieff's catastrophe
CHAPTER XXI.
Horse-stealing—An execution—A lucky escape—Penal laws of Mexico—Gambling at Monterey—“The California” steamer and her passengers—Nice pickings for speculators—The gambling-fever at its climax—Trading with a vengeance—The mysterious dozen—Sign- painting more curious than profitable—Resolution to repair to San Francisco—The death-bed of a murderer—His orphan—Mr. Graham and “The Revolution of 1836”—The usual reward of patriotism—The long-expected vessel—Her captain and crew—The voyage—Arrival at San Francisco
CHAPTER XXII.
Our entry into the Bay of San Francisco—The Strait—The Bay—Its beautiful situation—Description of the Bay—Pueblo and Suissoon Bays—Former insignificance of San Francisco—The discovery of the gold mines—The voice of Mammon—The change—The town of San Francisco as it appears from the Bay—The Island of Goats—Sacramento city—The route by water—Some particulars concerning Sacramento city—Ground-rents—The “red woods” of Pueblo—Their peculiarities
CHAPTER XXIII.
Difficulties of landing—A ruse de guerre —First aspect of San Francisco, as seen from a height—Scene on the beach, on the arrival of an emigrant ship—Dandies at a discount—Friends from the “diggins”—Early history of San Francisco, under the Spaniards and Mexicans—Its
CHAPTER XXIV.
The Washington Market—The Colonnade—The Gotham Saloon—The Plaza—The Miners' Bank—The Parker House—The Café Français—An old acquaintance—Notions respecting the mines and things in general, as they appeared at San Francisco—High price of provisions—The Gamblers of the Parker House—Some account of the game of monté —Tricks of the game—Tapping, and barring, and bursting—The Golden Eagle—The El-Dorado—Gamesters' chances—Curious customers—Jemmy Twitcher—The City Hotel—The Custom-House—A prudent calculation—My first night in San Francisco
CHAPTER XXV.
A start in search of fortune—Antoine of Monterey—My first venture—The California liner—Difficulties of captains in getting crews—Cheap lodgings at the Buckland—I set up in business—My success—I take a partner—The Yankee miner—More news about the “diggins”—My second partner—His squaw and squaller—Novel cottage—The season in San Francisco—Scarcity of good water—Value of a horse and cart—Wages and profits
CHAPTER XXVI.
Politics in San Francisco—Democracy versus Aristocracy—The right of the majority illustrated—Pistol law versus Mexican law—State of Society—The Hounds—Their exploits—The Hollow—Expulsion of the Hounds, and capture of their leader—The Chinese settlers—The French—A dusty dinner—The Happy Valley—Frightful condition of the Brooklyn emigrants—Deaths from scurvy
CHAPTER XXVII.
Unhealthiness of San Francisco—Prevalent maladies—Climate of California generally considered—Precautions to be observed by emigrants—Lack of women—Desirableness of female immigration—Mrs. Farnham's scheme frustrated—Advice to young ladies about toversus American intolerance—The Indians—A murder, and sanguinary retaliation—Population of California
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Political excitement—Preliminary steps towards the adoption of a constitution—Meeting of the Convention—The slavery question—Arrival of an important political personage—Determination to return to the States—Jemmy Twitcher—Paternal interest for a prodigal son—A Michael Angelo in search of fortune—A Frenchman in search of his wife
CHAPTER XXIX.
Departure from San Francisco—A moral deduced from painful experience—Penalties paid for the pursuit of wealth—O'reilly on his return from the land of gold—News of old friends—Dr. Freünd in a scrape—Riot on board—First trip of the California steamer to Panama
CHAPTER XXX.
“A good wife is a crown to her husband”—A beggar on horseback—“All is not gold that glitters”—Cares and anxieties of wealth—Another outbreak on board—San Diego—San Pedro—A mining-party in a fix—A death on board—San Blas—A happy riddance—Acapulco—The harbour and its incidents
CHAPTER XXXI.
Arrival at Panama—Agreeable surprise—The American Hotel—Scene in a Cockpit—Decayed appearance of the public buildings—Robbery of gold-dust—Crossing the Isthmus—Cortes's road—A lady cavalier—The carriers of Panama—Crucis—Exorbitant charges—Arrival at Gorgona—A Kanaka heroine—Chagres—Departure for New York
APPENDIX
PERSONAL ADVENTURES
IN
UPPER AND LOWER CALIFORNIA.
The first night at the “diggins”—The gold pockets or “diggins”—Trading posts—Speculation—An old acquaintance—News of old friends—Fortune capricious even in California—Gold-digging hard work—Sonoreans “dry-washing” for gold—Quality of the ore—Exploration of the mine—The source of the precious deposits—Morals of the miners or diggers—Doctor Dan—Another old acquaintance—Intelligence from other mines—The North Fork—Sutter's Fort and Mill—Shirt-washing more profitable than gold-washing—Halliday's ill luck.
The mine was a deep ravine, embosomed amidst lofty hills, surmounted by and covered with pine, and having, in the bottom itself, abundance of rock, mud, and sand. Hallidaymacheers and blankets, and arranged our saddles and bags, so as to make ourselves as comfortable and warm as possible, although, in spite of our precautions and contrivances, and of a tolerably good fire, our encampment was bitterly cold, and we lay exposed to a heavy dew. We had given up our horses into the charge of the Indians, and I saw to their being safely placed in the cavallard, whilst Halliday went to chop wood; a task I was too weak to perform. I cannot say we slept; we might more correctly be said to have had a long and most uncomfortable doze, and when morning broke, we were shivering with cold, and shook the dew in a shower from our clothes. I consulted with my companion, and urged upon him the prudence of our setting to work to construct ourselves a sort of log cabin;
As my strength was unequal to the task of felling timber, I endeavoured to procure four poles, intending to sink them into the ground, and to stretch on the top of them a bed-tick I had reserved for the purpose. The contrivance was a sorry one at the best, but shelter was indispensable; and great was my disappointment—though I procured the timber after a painful search—to find that the rocks presented an insuperable obstacle to my employing it as I intended. My efforts to sink the poles proved utterly futile, and I
Within a few paces of our encampment there was a large area of ground, probably half a mile square, the surface of which consisted of dark soil and slate, and was indented with innumerable holes of every possible dimension, from six inches to as many feet or more, wide and deep. In all of these lay abundance of water, of which large quantities are to be found a little beneath the surface, the ravine being supplied with it in great abundance by the rains that pour down from the hills during the wet season. To the extreme right of our camp, the ground assumed a more rocky character; and, from the vast deposit of stagnant water, did not seem to offer many attractions to the miners. Yet there was scarcely a spot in any of these places where the crow-bar, the pick, or the
In crossing the ravine, I was obliged to leap from one mound of earth to another, to avoid plunging ancle-deep in mud and water. It was wholly deserted in this part, though formerly so much frequented; and, with the exception of a few traders, who, having taken up their station here when times were good, had not yet made arrangements for removing to a more productive place, not a soul was to be seen.
I walked on until I reached the trading-post of Mr. Anderson, formerly our interpreter in the Lower Country, whom I felt delighted to meet with again. His shed was situated in one of the dampest parts of the mine, and consisted of a few upright poles, traversed by cross-pieces, and covered in with raw hides and leaves, but yet much exposed at the sides to the wind and the weather. He had a few barrels of flour and biscuit, which
I discovered, however, that he possessed another resource—by which his gains were marvellously increased—in the services of seven or eight Indians, whom he kept constantly at work, in the rear of his shed,
Proceeding higher up the ravine, I observed a large tent erected on the slope of a hill, within a few yards of the bottom, where the gold is usually found. It was surrounded by a trench, the clay from which, as it was dug up, had apparently been thrown out against the canvass, forming a kind of embankment, rendering it at once water and weather-proof. I ventured into it, encountering on my way an immense piece of raw beef, suspended from
I enjoyed now a fair opportunity of examining his features, and felt much gratified to recognise in him one of my former companions, the smartest man of his corps, and whom I had last seen at Monterey.
“Good morning, Firmore,” said I; “I wish you joy of your occupation.”
He started up from his knees, and looked at me awhile in perfect amazement; then rushing upon me with such earnestness as nearly to throw me down, he shook me by the hand until I thought he would work my arm out of its socket.
“What, you!” he exclaimed. “Well, well. Who ever would have thought to see you here! How did you come, and where did you start from? You are looking all the worse for wear.”
“I can't say you look quite as dapper, Firmore,” replied I, “as you did the day we went ashore at Valparaiso. But I suppose
“Oh, I don't know that!” he responded: “I have had but indifferent luck. For several days after I got here, I did not make any thing; but since then I have, by the hardest work, averaged about seven dollars a day. When you consider the price of provisions, the hardness of the labour, and the wear and tear of body, mind, and clothes—here he exhibited his rags—“you will admit that this is but poor remuneration. However, I live in hopes of getting a streak of luck yet. I am now cooking for our party. There are ten of us, and amongst the rest are Van Anken and Hughes. Van has been immensely fortunate. Every place he touches turns to gold under his fingers. Sometimes, after exhausting one place, he tries another which has been abandoned, and I have known him pick out of it seven and eight ounces a day, for days together. One thing is, he never tires. He is, as you know, a stout though a small-made man, with a constitution as tough as
“I should have thought him likelier to succeed than any other,” I observed; “for he is a large and a strong-looking man.”
“Ah! it's more luck than any thing else,” replied he. “But, luck or no luck, no man can pick up gold, even here, without the very hardest labour, and that's a fact. Some think that it is only to come here, squat down anywhere, and pick away. But they soon find out their mistake. I never knew what hard work was until I came here. Talk of
I looked out and beheld the party coming down the ravine, with crow-bars over their shoulders and wash-bowls under their arms. Van appeared glad to meet with me again; and, I must say, that, notwithstanding the inordinate selfishness brought into action by the peculiar circumstances in which the miners were placed, the THE “DIGGINS”—SONOREANS DRY-WASHING GOLD.esprit-de-corps of the volunteers prevented and alleviated much suffering amongst individuals. They cordially
I came up next with a group of three Sonoreans, or inhabitants of Sonora, busily engaged on a small sandy flat—the only one I had observed—at the bottom of the ravine. There was no water near, although I noticed several holes which had evidently been sunk in quest of it. These men were actively pursuing a process that is termed “dry-washing.” One was shovelling up the sand into a large cloth, stretched out upon the ground, and which, when it was tolerably well covered, he took up by the corners, and shook until the pebbles and larger particles of stone and dirt came to the surface. These he brushed away carefully with his hand, repeating the process of shaking and clearing until the residue was sufficiently fine for the next operation. This was performed by the other men, who, depositing the sand in large bowls hewn out of a solid
I noticed, that although the largest proportion of the gold obtained in this manner presented the appearance of a fine powder, it was interspersed, here and there, with large scales of the precious deposit, and with a few solid lumps. The metal was of a dingy hue, and, at a cursory view, might easily have been
I may as well mention here, that of the various new machines manufactured and sent GOLD ROCKER—WASHING PAN—GOLD BORER.
The second machine, in importance, is the gold-borer. It is particularly useful in examining the bottom of streams, and consists of a short conical cylinder at the end of a long handle, containing inside, at its lower extremity, a valve, arranged so as to admit the earth
Notwithstanding the success which seemed to attend the labours of the Sonoreans, I subsequently discovered that the entire of the gold thus painfully obtained disappeared at the gambling-stalls. They were generally clad most wretchedly, many of them wearing nothing more than a dirty shirt, a pair of light pantaloons, and the wide sombrero peculiar to the inhabitants of this country and Mexico. Some few sported a serapa, but they were men of superior native rank, of which this garment is a distinctive characteristic.
Continuing my route up the ravine, I met a man named Corrigan, galloping along with two fine horses, one of which he was leading. He stopped as soon as he recognised me, and we were soon engaged in a very interestingranché, marrying, and settling down. He was then going to seek for pasture for his horses; and, bidding me a hasty good by, galloped off, and soon disappeared.
As I advanced, the ground became drier and more sandy, rock and slate of various kinds abounding; some quite soft and friable, yielding readily to the pickaxe or the crowbar; and, in other places, so hard as to resist the utmost strength of the miners. Several of the diggers were perseveringly exploring the localities where the rotten sorts of slate were found in the largest quantities, and I saw them pick out a good deal of gold with their jack-knives. Their principal aim was to discover what they termed “a pocket,” which is nothing more than a crevice between the blocks of slate, into which a deposit of gold has been washed by the heavy rains from
There did not appear to be many mining-parties at the Stanislaus at this particular period, for the encampments were generally from two to five miles apart, the space between them increasing the higher you advanced towards the mountains, to the foot of which the ravine extended—altogether, a distance of many miles. The lower part of the mine, I concluded from this fact, to be by far the richer, simply from the circumstance I have mentioned: richer, comparatively, because here the deposits of gold are more easily found and extracted; not richer, in reality, as the metal must exist in immense quantities in the upper regions, from which it is washed down by the rains and floods into the lower districts. The virgin deposit would, doubtless, be difficult to come at; but, if sought after at all, that
I turned back, after prosecuting my excursion until the ravine became almost too rocky to allow me to proceed, and until I saw that the “diggins” diminished materially in number. On clambering the hills at the side, I beheld abundance of pines, oak, cedar, and palm; but no grass, nor vegetation of any other kind, save prickly shrubs, with here and there a patch of extremely dry moss. On my way back, I passed several tents and huts erected by the miners, all of the very poorest and most wretched description.
I found Van Anker's party at dinner, in front of their tent. Van showed me a leathern bag, containing several pounds' weight of very pure gold, and which was carelessly tossed about from one to the other for examination. It was the produce of his morning's work, he having fortunately struck upon a large pocket.
On inquiring whether, as there existed such strong temptation, robberies were not very
Gambling and drinking were carried on, I found, to a most demoralizing extent. Brandy and champagne, whenever they were brought to the “diggins,” realized enormous prices, varying from sixteen to twenty dollars a bottle; and some of the men would, after accumulating some hundred dollars, squander the whole in purchasing these beverages. Believing the supply of gold to be inexhaustible, they persisted in this reckless course, and discovered only when it became too late to redeem their error, that even here gold cannotplacers failed to yield, and were then reduced to great extremities.
The miners were by no means averse to lending “dust” to those who required it, notwithstanding that the lenders often experienced some difficulty in getting back the advance. One of Van's party, for instance, lent another six ounces of gold, which not being returned at the stipulated period, nor for some time afterwards, he dunned his debtor at every meal, until the latter, who had quietly submitted to the importunity, begged him to “just wait ten minutes, and time it.” He shouldered his pickaxe, as he said this, and going out of the shed, returned within the time, bringing back more than sufficient to liquidate the debt. This little incident created much amusement.
I did not find Halliday when I reached our encampment, but saw that Don Emanuel's party had not lost time; for, with their waggons, and a few boards and sticks, they had succeeded in establishing a sort of store, or
We found the group increased by several newcomers, and amongst these was Doctor Dan, a diminutive, fair-haired Irishman, well known in this part of the mining districts. In his younger days, he had taken a fresh start in life as a captain's clerk, having shipped
Amongst the priesthood of California, there happened to be a gentleman of Irish descent, the Reverend Mr. Murphy, to whom Dan soon procured an introduction, the result of which was, that Mr. Murphy ascertained that he possessed a knowledge—such as it was—of drugs and medicine, picked up in an apothecary's store, where he had been employed, and advised him to set up for a doctor, which advice Dan—now Doctor Dan—forthwith adopted and acted upon, and, through Murphy's influence and recommendation, soon got into a very extensive practice in the town and neighbourhood of San Barbara. He improved upon his success by marrying a Californian lady, with whom he obtained a good ranché and a valuable stock of cattle.
On the setting-in of the gold fever, the
In the course of conversation, I was in turn recognised by an old companion, one Frederick Whittle, whom I had last seen at New York, but whom I certainly should not have known again, from the change that had taken place in him, from the gentlemanly young fellow to the rough miner. His face, which was still round and florid, was half-covered with a huge, shaggy beard flowing down nearly to his waist. He wore a short, green-baize jacket, buckskin breeches, leather leggings, and a wide-brimmed hat; his neck enwrapped in a dirty red
In consequence of a disagreement with his father, he had quitted the paternal roof, intending to make a journey to the mines, and not to return without a competency.
“I have been working a long time at the North Fork,” he said, in reply to a question of mine, “where I had a rich spot, though it had been dug before. I got about five hundred dollars there; but, finding the “diggin” exhausted, and hearing a good account of the Stanislaus, I came on to it, but have not met with much success. Some days, however, I have been very lucky, and obtained from five to ten ounces at a time.”
I ventured upon some inquiries respecting the North Fork, to which he replied—
“I started from Sacramento city for Sutter's Fort, getting my baggage conveyed by steamer. I reached a ranché close by the
“But what of this Sutter's Fort, we've heard so much about?”
“Well, it's a smart little town for California, about forty-five miles from Sacramento city, the greater portion of it belonging to this Mr. Marshall. It contains about three hundred regular built houses, about a story and a half high; but they are now erecting a magnificent hotel there, and the place is likely to grow to anything. Most of the houses are of wood,
I coincided in the opinion of my friend, that industry of any kind, applied in these districts to alleviate the privations or add to the comforts of the miners, offered a far readier source of riches than the gold-pockets themselves; and that a steady application to some practical mode of meeting the circumstances in which they were placed was a surer method of securing a competency than slaving at the mines.
It was late before Halliday and I returned to our camp. We were neither of us in good spirits, and could not compose ourselves to sleep, so much were we excited by the novelty of our position, and so intense was the cold.
“I tell you what,” said he, as he tossed about under his blanket; “this mining, or goldhunting, is not what I thought it was, nor what it has been represented to be. I worked LIFE AT THE “DIGGINS”—SUPPER TIME.
“We must turn our attention to something, that's certain,” I replied; “for our stock of provisions will not last beyond ten days, and when they are gone, I don't quite see how we are to exist, unless we get a stroke of luck. I suppose there is gold, Halliday.”
“Yes, no doubt. But it's everything to find it.”
“Well, if I had your strength and health, I would try the ‘diggin’ myself. But I fear the toil would be too severe for me, particularly as we are so badly lodged. I could not work all day, and pass the night in this manner, without knocking up within eight and forty hours. We must have a shed, Halliday, and that's the long and short of it.”
“I don't know who's to get the timber for it,” retorted he. “It' no such easy task to
“Then you may depend upon it, I shall follow your example, Halliday. I am not going to remain here watching our property and cooking, whilst you are away digging. If you won't assist me to put up a bit of a shed, why our things must take their chance. I shall try my hand to-morrow, and leave the traps to take care of themselves.”
My companion muttered something in reply; and, as he did not seem inclined to continue the conversation, which certainly was not of the pleasantest kind, I left him to his own meditations, and confined my thoughts to myself, until I dropped off into a most comfortless doze.
Gold-digging and gold-washing—Reflections and moralizings put to flight—My first attempt at gold-washing—Further account of the Stanislaus Mine—The Mormon Diggins, and Carson's Creek—The Indians—An end to my mining fit—I turn trader—Removal up the mine—Start for Stocton—The town of Stocton—Paper at a premium—Robberies and murders—My friend Burke—Additional particulars respecting the mines—News of O'reilly—Doings at the Macalamo—Lynch law—Resolution to leave Stocton.
After breakfast next day, Halliday and I went out to try our luck at digging, and came up to Van Anken's party, whom we found busily employed. Firmore was washing clay in pans, which another of the party had just cast in. These pans were of tin, about eighteen inches wide, and perhaps two deep. The clay, or sand, was selected according to certain peculiar indications of richness, and being deposited in the pans, and covered with water, the latter were shaken from side to
Van Anken adhered perseveringly to the
For my own part, now I was here, and could the more fully enter into the philosophy and fact of the thing, I began to entertain strong misgivings as to whether the results attained by such severe toil were at all commensurate with the sacrifices made in connexion with it. According to my belief, and looking at the men as they wrought, no amount of success they might hope for could ever sufficiently compensate them—accustomed as the majority had been to the comforts and even refinements of civilized
“Luck, by G—!” said he, tossing up a small lump of gold, which he had succeeded in picking out with his knife from a hole at which he had stopped, whilst I stood gazing at the extraordinary scene around me, absorbed in my reflections.
This was quite enough to drive all philosophy out of my head, and I forthwith looked out for a likely place, and began to dig away as busily as the rest.
I wrought in good earnest the whole of that day, and was completely unsuccessful. Nevertheless, I renewed the operation on the following one, and got about six dollars'-worth of gold; whilst Halliday procured to the value of ten. The day after, we were both tolerably fortunate, bringing in between us about three ounces; but, during the remainder of the time we sojourned at the mine, Halliday did not average more than eight dollars a day, and I seldom exceeded
I had resolved upon seeing a little of the neighbouring country whilst I had the opportunity, and learning something further respecting the “upper diggins,” namely, “Carson's Creek,” and the “Mormon diggins,” although both were by this time pretty well worn out. They are situated a good distance up the ravine, the latter being distant from the Stanislaus about a mile to the eastward. It had been considered as the best placer during the preceding spring, and many of the miners dug from two ounces to two pounds of
At the time I am now speaking of, however, the mineral wealth of both these mines, as well as of a third, called Angel's Camp, had considerably diminished, and they were much upon the same footing as the Stanislaus, in this respect. I was informed that during the previous winter a great quantity of rain and snow had fallen in these parts of the Stanislaus, in consequence of which, the miners had been exposed to great privations, and provisions had risen to an enormous price, flour reaching four dollars a pound; pork, five; biscuit, three; and rice, two; whilst beef was not to be procured at any price. The general appearance and peculiarities of these placers did not present any characteristic difference from those other sections of the Stanislaus to which I have already alluded: there were numerous tents, good, bad, and indifferent; stores and gambling-booths; shanties
At the upper crossing of the Stanislaus River, I met with a large party of Americans, encamped near an Indian village containing about six hundred warriors, of whom an Irish ranchéro, named Murphy, is the head, he having married the sister of the principal chief. He keeps a trading-post, and furnishes the Indians with clothing and other necessaries, in return for their services in digging gold for him. I saw here a very fine specimen of the ore, weighing about five pounds, and which one of the Indian miners had picked out with a common sheath-knife.
I learned that great misunderstandings had arisen, and still existed, between the Indians and the white men of the surrounding “diggins,” in consequence of the numerous thefts—particularly of horses—which it was alleged the former daily committed; and many savage murders were likewise attributed to them. It was in due time ascertained that these crimes were perpetrated by the Indians of the snowy
I found the Indians I first alluded to extremely punctilious in their dealings. A party of them came to our camp one evening, and one of them, pointing to his mouth and to some flour lying in a bag near me, signified his wish to have some. I offered him as much as I could spare, perhaps about a pound, which one of the squaws put into a sort of apron, and tied about her waist. The Indian then handed me a small piece of gold, of the value of from five to six dollars. I might have sold all the flour I possessed at the same rate, for this article had been
The squaws were finely-proportioned women, but their features were somewhat coarse; a characteristic of the race. Their heads were fantastically adorned with feathers and a few pieces of yellow cloth, whilst their persons were very scantily attired. Most of them were armed with a bow arrows, the former being made of the toughest and most elastic wood, lined on the inner side with the strong sinews of some wild animal, which adhere to the surface of the wood by the application of a glutinous matter resembling gum. Their arrows are straight, and highly finished, being armed at the point with sharp triangular pieces of flint, barbed by careful chipping, and neatly bound on. These arrows are extremely difficult to withdraw from the flesh; and those who are wounded by them prefer having the whole missile pulled through the injured part to submitting the painful process of a more scientific abstraction. Very few of the Indians of this country possessed
To return, however, to what more immediately relates to myself, I may state, that finding trading more remunerative than gold-digging, I began to take advantage of any opportunities that presented themselves, to dispose of such articles as I could spare, to whoever felt inclined to give me a price for them. A pair of pistols, which I had purchased at Monterey for eleven dollars and a half, I now sold to Corrigan for seven ounces of gold, and subsequently ascertained that he refused twelve for them higher up the ravine. My old musket fetched two ounces; an overcoat that I had worn during my stay in California, and would really not have been worth a dollar anywhere but at the mines, realized twenty-four dollars; and getting now into the true
Halliday followed my example, and succeeded equally well: for instance, he procured in gold double their real value, for some few dollars of coined money, which he sold to Don Emanuel's Indians, who, being inveterate gamblers, found dollars more convenient than gold-dust, and did not mind a sacrifice to procure them. I ascertained also that he had agreed to accompany Doctor Dan on an excursion to Stocton, the Doctor's intention being to take his waggons and cattle there, to fetch up a large quantity of provisions to retail at the mine on his return. For his services, Halliday was to receive nine ounces of gold. The distance to Stocton and back, from the Stanislaus, is about one hundred and thirty miles. Previously to his leaving, however, we removed three miles further up the ravine. The reason of our doing so was, that we might still be near Don Emanuel's party; for the Don, discovering that the spot he had
Our stock of provisions being now exhausted, we purchased some biscuit and beef, and resumed our mining operations with such indifferent success, that, as Halliday had made up his mind to seek a more remunerative employment, and was even about to set out upon his trip to Stocton, I also determined to renounce gold-digging here, and to return to Monterey as soon as possible.
At length the day arrived on which Doctor Dan's party and Halliday were to depart for Stocton. I did not start with them, in consequence of a slight difference with Halliday on the subject of my horse; but, in the course of two hours after their departure, I determined upon following in their track; and accordingly packing up my baggage, and having provided myself with a proper supply of provisions, I bade adieu to my friends at the Stanislaus, and commenced my journey.
I travelled many weary miles that day: towards dusk, being attracted by the light of a fire in the distance, I hastened on in that direction, and found I had overtaken the Doctor's party. They had encamped somewhat early, as the Doctor had stayed behind, and would not join them until morning. I passed a comfortable night underneath one of the waggons, and slept profoundly.
In the morning the Doctor came up with us, accompanied by another gentleman, a lawyer named Dent, and an intimate friend of his. He had left the States a considerable TRADING POST IN THE MINES.
We continued our journey without any incident occurring worthy of record, save that we experienced great privation on one or two occasions, in consequence of the want of
I had heard so much of Stocton—so called after the Commodore of that name—that my curiosity was naturally excited to make acquaintance with a place so famous amongst the miners. I counted eight tents, some spiral, others walled-in with canvass, one of which, about fifty feet long, served for a store. There were several bulrush huts, and one immense wooden house in course of erection, some sixty feet square, and promising two strories. It was intended for trading purposes, and had been long required by the proprietor, Mr. Weaver, whose business was very extensive, considering the appearance of the place, and who was the owner of the chief portion of the land about there. He was endeavouring to attract settlers to the spot,
I determined to remain here for a few days, as much out of consideration to my jaded horse as to recruit my own strength; and as
The evening after our arrival, Halliday and I went out for a walk; and as he wished to write a letter, but lacked the necessary materials, he asked the owner of one of the bulrush huts if he could give him a sheet of paper.
“I can sell you one,” was the laconic rejoinder; which offer Halliday readily accepting, we entered the establishment. It was a groggery of the lowest description, and at the counter stood two miners, drinking brandy. An elderly female was in attendance, who served us with the sheet of paper, and received from Halliday, in return, a small piece of gold of the value of a shilling. By especial permission, my companion wrote his letter on the counter, owing to an extra exercise of generosity on the part of the landlady, the use of pen and ink for the purpose. As the air was intensely keen, we ventured upon a glass of the liquor, for which we paid very
Hearing a commotion outside, we proceeded to ascertain its cause, and discovered a tall mountaineer complaining of a loss he had just sustained. He had encamped in a field, at about a mile from Mr. Weaver's trading-store; and, being alone, had left the place for about a quarter of an hour, to look after his horses. He had about nine pounds' weight of gold tied up in a leathern bag, which he left in his tent, and which, on his return, he discovered had been stolen during his brief absence. He came to offer the half of it to anybody who should enable him to recover the bag. He was an Oregon man, and had a wife and large family depending upon the product of his labour at the mines, so that his case was a very hard one. He never got back a grain of the gold; the thief, whoever he was, getting clear away with it, and avoiding detection.
Another Oregon man, and a sailor, hisranché, at about eight miles from it, and there got inebriated. Three days after, a party set out in pursuit, but could gain no tidings, further than that two men answering the description of the suspected parties had passed through Stocton, and crossed the San Joachin the same day. One of them having been recognised by some volunteers who had met him on the road, and it being ascertained that his name was Lynch, and that he was a deserter from the Ohio, Commodore Jones immediately offered a reward of a thousand dollars for his apprehension; but, for a considerable time, this offer did not produce any results.
At length the criminals were apprehended, in consequence of the commission of another horrible murder, in the victims of which I
“I have been all over the mines,” said he, “and made money at every thing I turned my hand to, whether trading or digging. Of the two, trading's the best. My last spec. was a capital one. I came down here and bought up a large quantity of miscellaneous articles; and, amongst the rest, a tremendous lot of strong shoes, which I paid for at the rate of four dollars a pair, taking them wholesale. They all went off like wildfire at the mines, where I sold them again at ten and fifteen dollars a pair, and at last at twenty; and the people who wanted shoe-leather didn't think me unreasonable, either.”
“Pretty decent profit, too, Burke. But just tell me something about the mines, will you, since you have been to them all.”
“Well, sure I can do that,” replied he; and, as he enumerated the names, he told them off upon his fingers. “There's the Towallomie, the Stanislaus, the Macalamo, the Merced,
I felt anxious to make further inquiry respecting the gold districts; and, knowing Burke to be a practical man, who had enjoyed opportunities of inspecting the localities he had enumerated, I pressed him for further information.
“Well,” said he, “as to their situation, the whole of them lie between the San Joachin and the Sacramento and the Californian range of mountains. In fact, the mines are nothing more than so many ravines which run across from the range, and are flooded in the rainy season by the torrents that pour down from the upper regions, and which, according to all I could see and learn, bring
“Such, too, is my own notion, though people seem to think it may be found any where in this country, lying waste over an area of from five to eight hundred miles.”
“All stuff!” retorted he, contemptuously. “I know better than that, and so do thousands more, by this time. They forget how far they may go before they come to what we miners call a likely place; and how many likely places a party may try before they get any gold out of them that's worth the trouble they've taken to procure it. All stuff and nonsense, I say. If you want gold, you must look for it in certain places; in the ravines, and gullies, and in the beds of the streams; in all sorts of out-of-the-way little crannies, where it hides away like a rabbit in a burrow. You must seek it too in the mud, and clay, and sand, which we all know comes down with the water; and where there has been more found in bulk, though it was small,
“Yes; it seems, from what little I know about the matter, that these are few and far between.”
“As for that, one place is as likely as another, for the big pieces are not scarcer below than they are above.”
“What do you think, now, of the lower diggins? Are they better than the upper, or those which are nearest to the mountains?”
“I think they are; but those near the San Joachin and Sacramento have been pretty well worked out by this time, and they who try their luck further up will have to work harder the higher they go, and to look out sharp for provisions.”
“I heard that the Macalamo is the richest mine of all.”
“Yes, though formerly the Stanislaus was considered superior. It lies north-west from Monterey, at a distance of about two hundred miles, and is a twenty-one days' journey with waggons. The people dig for gold in twogulches, or ravines; one of these is at the foot of a hill, where the road seems to come to a stop, and which is called the “Macalamo Dry Diggins;” and the other lies a quarter of a mile lower down, nearer the river, the descent to it being some six hundred feet. Our party stopped at the “Dry Diggins;” and the first thing we did was to fix our tents, kill and salt our oxen, cut up the beef, and hang it out to dry. We turned our Californian waggon-wheels into seats, covered our waggons with raw hides, so as to make them waterproof, and then set to work digging.”
“Were you successful?”
“Was I? Yes, I was; pretty well, and so were a few others. The lucky ones made very large sums in a few hours, but the unlucky did not get more than an ounce a day, which was considered poor wages.”
“What is the character of this mine?”
“It's a long ravine, the soil of which is red, and somewhat blueish in places, sand predominating. The blue clay is considered
“Were the diggers numerous?”
“When I was there, I suppose there were about three hundred, some living in tents, some encamped under trees, and some in log huts. A good many volunteers got there just as I was coming away, and more were on their way, I heard.”
“Did you see or hear any thing of a volunteer named O'reilly?”
“Did I? Who could be within ten miles
I felt much rejoiced to learn this good news of my quondam comrade, and continued my inquiries, after hearing sundry characteristic anecdotes concerning O'reilly, the recital of which I will spare the reader.
In reply to a question respecting the relative sizes of the ore, he informed me that the gold taken out of this mine runs large.
“The average size of the lumps,” he said, “is about that of a pea; some are as large as a bean; and I have seen pieces that weighed above two pounds. Were you lucky at the Stanislaus?”
“Not very.”
“Ah, the fact is, it had been worked out before you got there. It's an awful dull place; no amusement at all, unless one is fond of drinking. I can't say the Macalamo's much better; although it is comparativelymonté and poker: nothing else goes down. I have seen bets made, to the amount of thirty-six ounces, on the turn of a card, the general run being from one to six. It's poor fun, at the best of it.”
“Had you any robberies up there?”
“Oh, yes; but Lynching soon settled them. One man, a sailor, a deserter from the Ohio, took it into his head, one night, to rob one of the volunteers, who had set up a drinking store. He had already got two bags, containing about five thousand dollars' worth of gold; but, not satisfied with them, grasped at a third, half full of dollars in silver. The jingling of the coin awoke the owner, who, springing up, gave the alarm, and, after a hot pursuit, the thief was captured, and bound to a tree until morning. At about nine, a jury of twelve miners sat to consider the case, a volunteer named Nutman officiating for Judge Lynch. Of course, he was found guilty, and sentenced to be hanged; but,
“Well, he went off, and when he was about half a mile away, stole a mule, and rode over to the ‘Calaveras' diggins, where the animal was claimed by the owner. He was thereupon tried for mule-stealing, and sentenced to receive another flogging; but when the miners
Our conversation embraced a multitude of similar topics, but we parted at last; and, after many days of reflection on what I had heard and seen, I made up my mind not to winter in this part of the country.
“Pencillings by the way,” by Mr. Weaver—Crossing of the San Joachin—Loss of my steed—A fit of despondency—“Toolie” house on the river—An unchristian and uncharitable “Dean”—Taken for a suspicious character—Recovery of my horse—“Black Jack” in a fix—Hunger stronger than prejudice—“'twixt the cup and the lip”—Boarding-house society at Pueblo—Return to Monterey.
Having succeeded in purchasing some hard biscuit, at the rate of thirty cents a pound, I started, on the following morning, for the crossing of the San Joachin, which is about fourteen miles from Stocton. I did not encounter a soul on the route: and the sense of loneliness stole upon me to such a degree, that I became a prey to the most gloomy thoughts. After travelling for about eight miles, I perceived an object by no means calculated to relieve me from the depression of spirits under which I laboured—namely, aranché would be prosecuted with all the rigour of the law. The motive for adopting this terrible device was the probability of its attracting greater attention.
On arriving at the San Joachin, I was somewhat puzzled as to how I should cross it. Seeing an American on the opposite bank, with a large waggon and a couple of yokes of oxen, I shouted out to him to inquire the direction of the bar. He told me to keep to the right, and make towards a certain point which he indicated. Following his instructions, I dashed in, and had got safely half
After proceeding for some time, I came to a spot on which several smoking logs gave evidence of a recent encampment, and here I resolved to pass the night. It was at a little distance from the route, surrounded by woods, and affording at intervals glimpses of a vast
I remained seated over the fire for several hours, buried in my own reflections, in which the folly of travelling alone in these wild regions occupied a prominent place. It must have been about nine o'clock at night, when I suddenly heard my horse snort, and plunge violently, as if frightened. Starting to my feet, I ran to the spot where he was secured, and discovered that the lasso had entirely disappeared, I knew not by what agency, and that he had been left at liberty to roam about
But it was by no means an easy task to calm my mind under the circumstances. Alone, fatigued, and indifferently supplied with provisions, it seemed to me that I must inevitably
I here found three men seated before an excellent breakfast of coffee and fritters. The moment I entered, one of them inquired if I was disposed to part with the bit and bridle I held in my hand. I replied that, having lost my horse in some mysterious manner the previous night, I had called in, thinking that they might be able to give me some clue to his recovery, and not with a view to bartering the articles I had with me. They assured me they had seen nothing of the animal, and that, from the circumstances I had related to them, it was far from probable that I should succeed in finding him. I took my departure, stating that, should such be the case, I should be glad to dispose of the articles they wished for, with this condition, that they should also purchase my saddle, spurs, and everything else I could spare, to which they returned a ready assent.
Encamped amongst some bushes within a short distance of the road, I again fell in with the party of Mr. Dean. Notwithstanding the unfavourable prepossessions I had formed of this man, I still confided sufficiently in the generosity of the American character, to fancy that a countryman placed in the distressing circumstances in which I then found myself, might have some claims on his sympathies. I therefore sought him out, and found him at a little distance from the encampment, in the act of driving in his oxen. Addressing him politely, I explained to him the dilemma in which I was placed, and begged of him to allow me to put my saddle, bridle, bit, and spurs on one of his waggons, as I wanted them taken to Monterey, adding, that I would cheerfully pay a reasonable sum for the accommodation. The fellow looked at me for a few moments with a stare of stupid suspicion, and then turned on his heel, without giving me any answer. I was so irritated by the rudeness of his conduct, that I felt very much disposed to knock him down; but, recollecting
I disposed of all the articles I have mentioned for a couple of ounces of gold, although,
I had compassed about seven or eight miles, when, to my great surprise, I beheld my truant steed looking across the route, as if waiting in expectation of my coming up. Few circumstances that have ever befallen me have filled my heart with greater joy than this incident, for I was broken down with fatigue, and hopeless and desponding in the extreme.
I must not weary the attention of my readers by recapitulating all the details of my journey back to Monterey. They have doubtless already formed a tolerably correct idea of the annoyances and difficulties presented at this time to the adventurous traveller, by the peculiar nature of the country. I fear that, as it is, I have been rather prolix, owing to the anxiety I feel to expose the realities of this rugged road to fortune, and to disabuse the minds of emigrants of the illusions with which the glowing accounts published in the newspapers has naturally filled them. It may be said that my case is an exceptional one; that I did not give mining a fair trial; and that I could not reasonably have expected to succeed. But such is not strictly the fact: many a hardy, resolute man, led away by cupidity, or by the delusive representations of
Keeping Dean's waggons always in view, and moving at the rate of about twelve miles a day, I arrived in a few days at Livermore's Farm, where I encamped under a large tree, a little in advance of the Yankee. Nothing could be more miserable than the night I spent here, wood being as scarce as before, and the weather bitterly cold. I started early next morning, and, on arriving at the correl, I saw two men of rather singular appearance, one of them wearing a “sou'-wester,” or sailor's hat, and the other a pair of enormous jack-boots, the leather of which reached far above his knees; inside the fence was a ragged Indian boy, milking a cow, and from him the two persons in question were endeavouring to purchase some milk. One of the group hailed me as I came up, and notwithstanding the strange manner in which they were disguised, I discovered two of my old comrades of the volunteers.
“Well, Stevenson,” said I; “I certainly had some difficulty in recognising you under this disguise. Surely, you are not going home already.”
RANCHE IN UPPER CALIFORNIA.
“Yes, but we are though,” was the reply. “We have had a regular sickening of it. We ran out our provisions, and did not make enough by digging to pay our expenses. If we are never to make our fortunes but at the expense of such hard labour, we must be contented to jog on in the old way, and earn an honest crust in some more Christian-like occupation.”
I found that these poor fellows had not succeeded half as well as myself, and I resolved to assist them homeward by sharing with them my little stock of provisions and carrying their blankets, with which they seemed to be very much encumbered. They could not prevail upon the Indian to sell them a drop of milk; so, swearing at him lustily, they slaked their thirst in the adjoining stream, and we proceeded on our route.
As we went along, Stevenson related to me some amusing incidents that had occurred to him on his way to the mines. One evening, at the very farm we had just left, he and several other volunteers had met their quondam
“I was determined,” said Stevenson, “to be as rude to him as possible, for I hate him from the very bottom of my heart; so I sat down to supper, without ever washing my hands or taking off my ‘sou'-wester;’ but the captain seemed determined not to take any notice of anything we might say or do, for he felt that he was in awkward hands, and had best keep quiet. He must have been devilishly annoyed though, for he is so very particular, and so confoundedly aristocratic. When he lay down on the floor in his serapa, I stretched myself alongside of him, and snored and snorted at such a rate, that I'll be bound he had very little sleep. He was going to the mines, but turned back, as I heard, from a very natural apprehension that had been
“What sort of business was he engaged in up there?”
“Shortly after the volunteers were disbanded, he bought up a large quantity of sailors' clothing and Government stores that had been condemned as unfit for use, and conveyed them to Pueblo; but I don't think he made much on the lot, for they were all sold by auction. But, if it's a fact that the devil takes care of his own, ‘Black Jack’ is sure to make money somehow or other.”
When we reached San José, determined to have a comfortable supper, if possible, and a good supply of provender for my horse, we entered a trading store in the mission, which was kept by a Yankee; and learning from him
Between the two front doors of the store was a table, around which were seated several Americans and Spaniards playing at monté, and staking various sums, from twenty-five cents to four and five ounces of gold, upon a card. I could gather from their conversation that none of them had gone to bed the previous night, and that it was probable they would not quit playing until the banker, or those betting against him, had “burst.”
Feeling but little interested in the game, I strolled out into the courtyard to see how my horse had been provided for, when I was agreeably surprised at finding assembled there a group of fresh-looking Yankee girls, chatting and jesting together. They must have come across the mountains, and seemed to have been well taken care of on the route. Having seen my horse fed, I re-entered the store, and was shown into a lofty apartment, where supper had been laid. There was plenty of tea, bread, a few cakes, and a large piece of roast pork, and, to give a greater zest to the repast, one of the merry girls that we had seen presided on the occasion. The viands with which the table was laid out disappeared rapidly under the influence of appetites sharpened by the irregularities of our previous habits; and, although pork in any form had always been abhorrent to me, it would have puzzled the most acute observer to have detected in my countenance or operations the slightest trace of
“Twixt the cup and the lip,” ejaculated Stevenson, with a longing eye after the teathings, as they were carried off. “A man ought to have the worth of his money, though Venus herself were to make up the deficiency with her smiles; a dollar and a half is too much to pay for a supper like that.”
“What!” said I, in amazement, “is it possible that you are not satisfied yet?”
“Satisfied!” he exclaimed; “I feel for all the world like an empty house, out of which
Our bed that night was unusually comfortable. Stretching ourselves upon some wellshaken, luxurious straw in the stable, where my horse had been placed, we enjoyed a delicious night's repose, to appreciate the sweets of which, obtained as it was on a couch which would be disdained by the lowest menial in our own country, one must have passed through the scenes which had brought us to the conclusion that the softness of the down bed is, after all, relative enjoyment.
On asking for my bill after breakfast in the morning, I found that I had to pay five dollars, and my companions three each, for the few hours we had remained in the house.
The accommodations in Pueblo are far superior. On reaching that town, we went to a boarding-house, kept in the regular Yankee style by an Irishman named Brannan. It was evening when we got there, and we found assembled round an excellent fire a group of
The table kept here was as good and abundant as men long inured to scanty and indifferent fare could desire. My poor steed, however, did not come off quite so well, as it was exceedingly difficult to procure
During the last twelve miles of our journey to Monterey, we were subjected to the pelting of a violent storm of rain, and reached the town thoroughly drenched to the skin. I thanked my stars that I was just in time to escape the horrors of the winter, in the desolate solitudes through which I had just passed, and resolved to keep myself close and comfortable until the following spring.
Directly opposite Abrigo's billiard-rooms, I observed a coffee-house that had been opened since my last visit to the town; and, attracted by its appearance, I entered, to obtain some supper. Fearing the effects of cold from the wetting I had just received, I asked for a glass of brandy. The waiter informed me that there was none in the town.
“Let me have a beef-steak and some coffee, then,” said I, passing on into a small room, which was so crowded that I could hardly find a place.
“Where is the milk?” I inquired, when my cup had been filled.
“The cow was killed yesterday, sir, and there's not a drop to be had in the town.”
“The devil there's not! What have you got here? nothing but biscuit? Can't you get me some fresh bread?”
“I'm sorry to say I can't, sir. The baker hasn't returned from the mines.”
“Have you no butter?—these hard biscuits require something to make them go down.” (I was getting dainty!)
“They don't bring us any more butter from the country, sir. The last we had was used up a couple of weeks ago, and we can't get a further supply for love or money.”
“What, in the name of wonder, have you, then? You don't expect me to eat the table, I suppose?”
“Oh, dear no! Here's the beef-steak, sir;” and, going to the door, he relieved a grinning nigger of the smoking dish, and slapped it down on the table with emphasis, in order to convince me that the house could still sustain its credit.
“You seem to be on the verge of starvation here, my friend,” observed I.
“We have the best supply of any house in the town, sir; but the population has been reduced to great distress, and has sometimes to go whole weeks without beef. The rancheros won't drive in the cattle, and there is no regular butcher in the place; so that, if we didn't kill for ourselves, I don't know what we should do. But we'll have some beans to-morrow, and perhaps a few potatoes;
Tranquillized by the prospect, although somewhat distant, of beans and potatoes, I ate my scanty meal in silence, revolving in my mind to what extremities the population would be reduced to next. Had the town been placed in a state of siege, it could not have been driven to greater straits; and, when such ordinary necessaries as bread, butter, and milk, had entirely dissappeared, it was more than probable that old boots would soon rise in value as an edible. A cheering perspective, thought I; I might as well have remained in the mountains; but yet, on consideration—no. The rain descended in continuous torrents, and the shelter of a roof had become an essential element of comfort.
Accommodation for man and beast—The tinman's rise in the world—Relative advantages of San Francisco and Monterey—Future prospects of California—A bad exchange—Jemmy Cullen, the Irish Blacksmith—Might versus right—A black diamond of the first water—Hector Moncrieff's catastrophe.
Upon a gentle declivity, at the rear of the town, stood a log house, consisting of several upper and lower rooms, which had been recently built by a Yankee, but which had been deserted by him as soon as built, under the influence of the general mania which attracted every one to the mines. Ascertaining the name of the person in whose charge it had been left, I hired one of the rooms from him; but it was like hiring the whole house at a nominal rent, as I had it all to myself. I took up my residence there the same night, and, on entering, found that there was no sort of bolt or
On arising in the morning, my first care was to go down to the livery-stable, where I had left my horse at the moderate charge of a dollar and a half a day. On asking to see him, I was far from satisfied at what I beheld. The poor animal had not a mouthful of hay or corn before him, and I very much question if any had been given him. Working at a bench, at the further end of the stable, was a carpenter, whom I immediately recognised as having served in the volunteers. The floor
“How do they feed the horses here?” I inquired of the carpenter; “they don't seem to give them any thing to eat.”
“Oh yes, they do,” replied Chips; “they have their three feeds a day riglar—three wisps of hay, and a promise of oats, which accounts for all the horses being so fat in these here parts. There isn't a bit of corn or grass to be had anywhere else in the town, so that the tinman can lay it on as thick as he pleases.”
“And, pray, who is the tinman?”
“The chap that owns these stables, and that large block there, and the store in front. I thought every body knew him. He came here a few years ago—a poor, ragged younker, and took to making tin cups and saucepans to earn a living. Well, you see he lived very close for three or four years, grudging himself the smallest comfort, until he scraped
“What are you now doing for him?”
“He's fitting up his house for an hotel and baths, an' I'm doing all the joining work for him. He's always a speculatin'; but I guess he's a little out of his recknin' this time, for San Francisco is going to be the place for business.”
Although concurring with my friend the carpenter in his view of the relative superiority of San Francisco, as a field for speculation, I did not altogether agree with him that the prospects of Monterey were to be despised. An immense number of log and plank houses had been erected since my last visit, and the town presented all the evidences of a place likely to increase rapidly in importance. It will form excellent winter quarters for the miners, provided the townspeople have the good sense to take efficient measures for the supply of the town with provisions, which, I presume, for their own sakes, these indolent gentry will do.
I wish I could as readily bring myself to the conviction that the general thirst for the acquisition of gold, and apparent superabundance of the precious metals, are likely to prove of general benefit to the country. The only true and inexhaustible sources of a nation's wealth are, in my opinion, its agricultural and commercial capabilities, and where those natural means are so utterly neglected,
On my way to the coffee-house, I revolved in my mind the expediency of disposing of my horse, and arrived at the conclusion that to keep him any longer, under the circumstances, would be utter folly. It would be
In the mean time, Stevenson and his familygood killing order for five dollars, so I told him to keep it in his shop, and in the event of my finding a customer, I would give him the job. A person named Springer, who happened to see it in Jemmy's shop, a few days after, took a fancy to it, and was induced by the representations of the latter to give me twenty dollars for it, and to pay the blacksmith, besides, for repairing it. Shortly afterwards, Springer called upon me, and requested me to go down with him to Cullen's.
“I found,” said he, “that the scoundrel, instead of putting it in order, as he had undertaken, only made it ten times worse. I had told him to put new dogs on the lock, instead of which, he files off the catch, that holds the trigger at half-cock, and hang me if the thing doesn't now go the full sweep! But I wouldn't mind this, if the fellow had not given me so much impertience. I merely
We were by this time at Jemmy's shop, a low shanty close to the landing-place.
“Mr. Cullen,” said I, approaching the irascible Hibernian with cautious politeness, “my friend, Mr. Springer here, is desirous that I should look at his gun.”
“Don't come in her, you Yankeesmithereens! Now, just look at the gun, Mr. R., that that ignorant vagabond there says ain't in order. Jist look at it, I ask of you.”
“Well, certainly,” said I; “it seems to me in excellent killing order, but how is it that the triggers will not stop at half-cock?”
“Ay,” said Springer, who had remained listening outside, “that's the question; why didn't you put in new dogs, as you promised?”
“Me promoise! by jabers, if I hear another word of your ugly mouth, I'll break every bone in your mane, dirty little body! Ye may take the gun, or lave it, just as it suits you. Thank God, I'm purty independent, and don't want to have any dalins whatsomever with poor people.”
Springer, glad to get out of the hands of the irritable Vulcan, paid down the amount
This incident, trivial as it is, is highly illustrative of the then state of the country. In fact, there was nothing like law or justice in Monterey; and I have known this very individual, (Cullen) when threatened with arrest by the Alcalde, send a message to the effect that he would blow out the brains of the first person who attempted to enter his shop for the purpose. The result was, that he remained perfectly undisturbed in his tenement. The fellow had already realized a small fortune by the mines, being the only mechanic in his line in the town, and readily obtaining his own prices for everything he manufactured.
The winter in Monterey is felt very severely by the inhabitants. The rain rushing down the hills that overhang the town, and flowing in torrents through its streets, renders walking out of doors exceedingly disagreeable, if not altogether impossible. At night, when going home, one experiences countless difficulties and dangers, for there is not a solitary lamp to guide the pedestrian on his way; and if he should escape falling into a well, he is certain to find himself up to his knees in some of the gullies or streams that meet him in every direction. Those who can do it endeavour to remain at home at this season, butcasa on the hill. The inhabitants, in addition to these annoyances, suffered greatly from the scarcity of provisions until their townsmen returned from the mines, when things resumed their accustomed course, and became comparatively comfortable. The arrival of a small vessel from San Francisco, with some brandy, caused general rejoicing. This liquor sold for fifty cents a glass for several weeks, until a fresh cargo arrived, when the price went down to twenty-five cents, just quadruple the price charged for it in the States.
The news had reached us some time before that several boats' crews had deserted from the American vessels of war, notwithstanding the severe precautions adopted by the Commodore to prevent it. One evening, a runaway negro rode into the yard at the rear of the house where I slept, and, fastening his horse to a stake in the fence, entered the room
“Well, Hector,” said he, “how have you been getting on?”
“Oh,” replied our sable visitor, “I done fust rate. You heerd, I s'pose, dat after I leabe dis'ere place I go right up to Macalamo diggins. Dere I dig a tremendious sight o' goold in berry few days. How much you tink I make now—eh?”
“I'm sure I can't tell.”
“Jist guess.”
“Well, somewhere about twenty ounces.”
“Haw! haw! twenty ounces! What a clebber chap you be! What tink you ob four tousan' dollars, now—eh?”
“Four thousand dollars!” ejaculated Stevenson, in amazement.
“Four thousand dollars!” echoed his wife,
“Why, this takes the shine out of them all,” said Stevenson; “but you were born lucky, Hector. Had I done what you did, in running away from the Southampton, and carrying off one of her
“Hush! Massa Stevenson,” interrupted the black, wriggling uneasily on his seat, and casting anxious glances around him; “de less we say about dat de better.”
“You need not be alarmed, my good fellow; we are all friends here. I was only going to say, that if I had been in your place, I would have been kicking my heels in irons, and doing penance for my sins on bread and water, instead of looking sleek and hearty, and having lots of tin to spend. There is truth in the proverb, that luck is better than brains,” added he, bitterly.
“Ay, ay; dere's someting in luck. But you ain't heerd all.”
“Let us have the rest, then, Hector; and
“De most astonishingest piece of de bisness are a comin',” continued the nigger. “I war climbin' up a hill, one moonshiny night, to git him a little more firewood, an' a lookin' about for sticks, I see someting a shinin' in de grass. I make a grab at him, tinkin' it war a big lump ob goold. Whenebber I feeled him, him like a stone; and whenebber I looked at him, I couldn't tell what the divil he war. Well, I fetch him back to the camp, an' I keep him till I get to Pibblo, [Pueblo] where I show him to Captin Demmick; an' what you tink he told me him war?”
“Oh, I can't tell. What was it?” said Stevenson.
“Good gracious! what was it?” echoed his helpmate, in growing excitement.
“A dimond ob de fust water,” replied Hector, grandly.
“Is it possible!” exclaimed my friend and his wife, in chorus.
“Well, it ain't no less,” resumed the negro.
“So, sis I, ‘Hector, my boy, you done wid hard work, now: haw! haw! You go into someting large in de spek'lation line. Den you do fust rate in your unnertakins; you send for de little gal you leabe a weepin' out her eyes arter you in New York city, an' make her honest woman.’ Soon arter, I meet a Frenchman, a capital good cook, I can tell you, an' him an' me agree to go into de hotel line togedder. We take a big place, to make an eating-house an' liquor store, an' I come down here to buy de stock of liquors an' provisions.”
“Well, I am heartily glad of your good fortune,” said my friend; “but you had better keep a sharp look-out, Hector, or you'll get nabbed, and have no chance of enjoying your money.”
“Oh, dere be no danger ob dat. I so disguised, dat I meet several ob de officers about de town, an' debbil a bit if dey know me. Haw! haw!”
“Do, now, be cautious, Hector,” said Mrs. Stevenson; “for it would be a pity that you
The black now rose, and bade us good night. He had hardly been gone two minutes, when he returned in a great fright. His horse had been stolen.
Stevenson and he went out together, and having searched the town in every direction, at last found the animal standing at the door of a house in the suburbs, the saddle having been removed from his back. To their peremptory demands for the restoration of both, the Spaniard who had carried them off invariably made use of the ever ready reply, “ No intiende, Señor;” until my friend took him by the collar, and threatened to bring him before the Alcalde, when he declared, in very good English, that the horse and saddle had been merely borrowed, by a friend of his, to go to a fandango, and that he would have much pleasure in restoring them to the owner.
A few days afterwards, as I was sipping a cup of coffee in Piscaro's billiard-rooms, opposite the quartel, I detected the sablemillionaire officiating amongst the waiters; and I subsequently heard that he had been betrayed by one of his own race, and marched off a prisoner to the vessel from which he had deserted, and in which he had discharged the duties of cook, stoutly insisting that he was not himself, but somebody else that bore a strong resemblance to him. The poor fellow received a severe flogging, for which I suspect neither his four thousand dollars in gold, nor his “dimond of the fust water,” proved an effective salve.
One evening, shortly after my return to Monterey, I took it into my head to go to a fandango. These parties were numerous during the winter, but usually ended in a fight between the Spaniards and the Americans. Accordingly, on entering the ball-room, I found a motley crowd of persons assembled, amongst whom were several well-dressed females and young men, both Yankee and Californian, and a still greater number of boisterous sailors. Most of them were dancing with great spirit. Two of the young men GOING TO A FANDANGO.
During our stay in the lower country, three females, with their chaperon, arrived at San José from Mazatlan, and took up their residence in a large bamboo-house on the outskirts of the town. The names by which they were known were Augustina, Warner, Pancho, and Jack Scott. All of them were of Spanish descent. Augustina being a very beautiful girl, Pancho a very fascinating one in manner,
“Cuidado!” said she; “what por you no carry a cuchillo?”
The sergeant was unarmed, but being a
The expression made use of by Pancho became quite a familiar one throughout the garrison, and never afterwards did we caution each other in any other terms than “ Cuidado por yourself; what por you no carry a cuchillo?” which, being given in the naïve manner of the girl herself, never failed to create a hearty laugh.
Inquiring why one of these females went by the sobriquet of Jack Scott, I was informed that that person was her great favouriteAmericanos. Jack Scott was her beau ideal; and, as she never failed to mention his name in conversation, some of our boys had thus christened her; but who or what the object of her admiration was I never was able to ascertain.
These four females had come up with the refugees on board the vessels of war from Lower California.
As soon as the dance was over, I approached Augustina, and said—
“Quiere usted fumar, caballero?” at the same time offering her a Havana cigar.
I thought this would have disconcerted her, but she took the cigar, and smoked it with the sang froid of a Dutchman. Well, said I, if that won't do, I will try another experiment; and accordingly, after a few words of conversation on general subjects, asked her if she would have un vaso de aguardiente. But again was I surprised—the lovely creature, true to her assumed character, tossing off the contents without the slightest hesitation.
One of the volunteers, to whom I mentioned
This practice of the women disguising themselves in male attire is not by any means confined to females of easy character. On several occasions, I detected married Spanish women of unblemished reputation dressed in male costume at these fandangos, and was amused to observe the jealous watchfulness with which they regarded their husbands. One evening, Lieutenant Y—and I being at one of these boisterous réunions, discovered, in a very dashing, manly-looking person, a lady with whom he was intimately acquainted. Her husband was engaged in an animated flirtation with Pancho, and she seemed dreadfully excited, her eyes flashing with rage. Happening to turn round and perceive that the Lieutenant recognised her, she rushed out of the house. “Thank Heaven,” said I to myself, “that I am not in that gentleman's shoes! When he gets home, he'll find that he has caught a Tartar.”
I have thought it advisable to introduce
Horse-stealing—An execution—A lucky escape—Penal laws of Mexico—Gambling at Monterey—“The California” steamer and her passengers—Nice pickings for speculators—The gambling-fever at its climax—Trading with a vengeance—The mysterious dozen—Sign-painting more curious than profitable—Resolution to repair to San Francisco—The death-bed of a murderer—His orphan—Mr. Graham and “The Revolution of 1836”—The usual reward of patriotism—The long-expected vessel—Her captain and crew—The voyage—Arrival at San Francisco.
Towards the close of the winter, an event occurred which threw the whole population into a state of great excitement. The circumstances were these:—
A notorious horse-stealer, a semi-Indian, having committed several remarkably daring robberies, was at last apprehended, found guilty by a jury composed chiefly of his own countrymen, and sentenced by the Alcalde—according to the laws of Mexico—to be hanged.
The case was argued pro and con, with considerable eloquence and force. The infliction of the extreme penalty was denounced by the speakers of the opposition, as being, in the first place, contrary to the spirit of a humane system of legislation; secondly, in contradiction with the merciful principles inculcated by the Christian religion; and lastly as too severe a punishment for the offence. The speakers on the other side urged that a severe example was absolutely necessary to check crime in the then state of California; for if an undue indulgence were shown to men who committed excesses of this nature, there would result—in the absence of a settled government, of police, of prisons, of all order, in a country
These arguments, backed by several allusions to the custom of appealing to Lynch law, in places where no regularly-constituted tribunals existed, produced a sensation adverse to the object of the meeting. But the opposition party, changing their tactics, insisted that the trial was an illegal one; as two or three persons on the jury were known to entertain hostile feelings towards the prisoner, having at various times been injured by him. One of these persons, moreover, had been heard to express a desire of being revenged upon the criminal; and these circumstances, it was urged, were sufficient—even according
The love of fair play carried the day, after a protracted and stormy discussion, which terminated by the adoption of an appeal to Governor Mason, soliciting him to order a postponement of the execution. As this had been arranged to take place on the following morning, a deputation was appointed to wait upon the Governor, who, after considerable delay and difficulty, replied, that he could not interfere with the Alcalde in the performance of his duty; but if he chose to accede to the request of the deputation, he (the Governor) had no objection. Accordingly, the deputation proceeded to the Alcalde; but he had gone into the country for the day; most likely, to evade the importunities of the American party.
Violence was now generally anticipated; and the prisoner was in consequence taken up to the fort on the hill, and the guard over him doubled.
Next morning, crowds of men, women, and
At length the culprit made his appearance, amidst the deepest silence, but also amidst intense excitement, though it appeared not on the surface. He was a stout, heavy man, having his face and figure hidden under a dark cloth. He mounted the steps of the scaffold with much apparent firmness, and the rope being passed over his head, and adjusted round his neck, the board was taken from beneath his feet, and he fell—to the ground!
The rope had broken, and the culprit, instead of finding himself in another world, discovered himself standing in the midst of an anxious crowd of spectators, with the Alcalde close beside him.
There followed a great outcry for the “padre,” who, in the person of a priest named Ramarez, made his appearance in the course of a few minutes, and proceeded to deliver himself of a most impressive homily, addressed to the astonished prisoner, whom I expected to see strung up again, as soon as a new rope should be forthcoming. I was mistaken, however. The accident—if such it was—is provided for by the Mexican law, and stands the culprit in lieu of a free pardon. The horse-stealer, therefore, walked away; and, although black in the face, and swollen in the eyes and forehead, into which the blood had started, seemed as much surprised as pleased at his escape, as well he might be.
I never understood the particulars of this fortunate accident, but strongly suspected that the Alcalde, fearing the violence of the
There was an unusual amount of gambling carried on in Monterey during this winter; attributable, no doubt, to the superabundance of gold which had flowed in from the mines. The presiding genius of this mania, at Abrigo's, was a Mr. C—, the most inveterate gamester of all the Americans in the country. He was a highly amusing fellow, who won and lost his money in the most off-hand, spirited manner, appearing equally satisfied whether Fortune smiled or frowned upon him. He proved, in consequence, an immense favourite with all. He was one of the very best billiard-players I have ever met with, and was never so happy as when engaged in playing that game, or monté. His chief peculiarity, however, was an extraordinary propensity for swearing; his vocabulary of oaths comprising the very choicest selection—Yankee, English, and
One day, all the inhabitants of the town rushed together in a crowd to the port, to witness the arrival of a huge steamer which had appeared in the offing; the largest that had passed along this coast, and, as I understood, the first into the bargain. The Californians gazed at it in silent wonderment, not at all able to comprehend how it could have been constructed of such a size; how it could be made to go without sails; where all the smoke it cast out of its huge funnel came from; and how the large fire in its inside did not burn the vessel up.
She was the California, the first of the new American line steamers; and, having cast anchor and landed her passengers, Abrigo's coffee-house presented, in the course of a few hours, such a scene as perhaps could not be witnessed in any other country but this, and that under the peculiar circumstances of its then position.
As far as appearances went, a finer looking or a more respectable body of emigrants never stepped ashore from any vessel; but I venture to affirm there never landed at Monterey a shrewder or a “smarter” set, or their match at gambling, with all its accompanying vices. At faro, monté, indeed, at any game of cards, they appeared quite in their element; and the Spaniards, though sharp enough, were mere children in this respect, compared to them. Several had brought roulette-tables, “sweatcloths,” and dice, and banks were immediately established, on every available spot. Even the billiard-tables were, for the time, diverted from their original use, and devoted to rouge-et-noir, and such like games of chance, at which the dealers soon realized enormous sums in gold, receiving it in lumps and in ounces, according to the kind. There was scarcely a device common to gamblers which was not brought into active practice; and many new tricks and games I had never seen played before were on this occasion introduced for the first time in California.
Meanwhile, and in the midst of the excitement of play, numerous other individuals from on board the vessel were endeavouring to acquire money by legitimate trading. All sorts of articles were offered for sale at enormous prices. Shoes, hats, baskets, bowie-knives, handkerchiefs, spades, shovels, picks, and crow-bars, biscuit and flour, cheese, and beef and pork, confectionary and spices, tobacco and snuff, and spirits and wine—in fact, every kind of merchandise seemed to have been landed in minute quantities, expressly to tantalize purchasers, to raise an extra demand, and consequently to augment prices. One particularly shrewd fellow had a dozen of the commonest sort of bowie-knives, which he offered at the modest sum of five dollars each; and, having readily disposed of them, renewed the operation with another dozen, and another, and another, until he had realized a handsome sum. But he never appeared with more than a dozen at a time, as his whole stock in trade; and, as he never made his appearance twice in the same place, nobody seemed the wiser, his
Another man greatly amused me by driving bargains for his wearing apparel; and I am afraid to say how many times he stripped and reappeared clad anew, to sell his garments again, before he was satisfied. In a word, there was but one cry, but one all-absorbing thought—“Money, money, money!”
To add to the bustle of this bewildering scene, the rush to C—'s refreshment-store, established at the bar of the coffee-house, was perfectly appalling. The habitués of the place were neglected for the new-comers; and, on one hungry townsman appealing to C—for a piece of pie,. I heard the latter exclaim—
“Pie! Pie! For God's sake, don't ask me for pie to-day! The inhabitants of the town will, I hope, forget themselves to-day, and give the strangers a chance.”
How far the keen-witted host forgot himself may be inferred from the fact, that in two days he cleared upwards of two thousand
As an illustration of the spirit of gambling which prevailed, I may mention the case of one of the new-comers, the cook of the California, known by the name of “English Ned.” This man was a bold gamester, who would coolly stake his all on the cast of a die, the turn of a card, or the stroke of a cue. The first day, he played at two American banks, and won eighteen hundred dollars; the next, he lost all, and in the evening returned on board with a dun at his heels for a couple of ounces of gold.
Some of these old gamesters frequently made enormous “hits,” and as frequently sustained ruinous losses. But I observed that they who really carried away the most, were sundry quiet-looking fellows, with sharp eyes, who watched the chances, betted enormously, but warily, upon a run of luck on any particular card or colour, and went away when they had won a sufficiency for that sitting. Some, however, who knew that “keeping the bank” was a safe game, speculated in this manner
Another of the strangers whom I more particularly remarked, was a tall, fair-haired Yankee, who went by the name of John as a surname, being always called Mr. John. He started one of the new Yankee gambling-banks, as I have reason to remember, having been tempted, by the force of the general example and of familiar associations, to try my chances at his table. That day I won twenty-five dollars at monté, all of which I lost on the morrow, with ten dollars more. I thereupon resolved not to play again; a resolution which, as I subsequently discovered, was far easier to come to than to keep, so strong were the incentives to this species of indulgence, and so contaminating the influences by which I was surrounded.
The California remained five days in the roadstead, during which time I ascertained that the emigrants—who were bound to San Francisco—were, the majority of them, professed gamblers from the Southern States,
At this period, gold of the finest quality fetched only eleven dollars per ounce, so that I lost considerably in converting mine into coin. The people expressed their anxious desire to see a United States' Mint established, but Congress moved but tardily in the consideration of Californian affairs; and, failing this very necessary protection, the miners were left entirely at the mercy of the grasping cupidity of the traders—a state of things which gave rise to much discontent.
As my means were now rapidly diminishing, I found myself obliged to turn my attention to some practical occupation, by pursuing which—in accordance with the spirit of activity that prevailed amongst the great mass of the people—I might hope to earn a livelihood. Portrait-painting—in which I had attained some proficiency by years of study and practice—was out of the question, as
It did not make its appearance, however, for a considerable time, condemning me, by the delay, to a long and wearisome period of
One day, on my way down to the familiar spot, as I was passing along the street leading to the house of a Mr. Larkins, I was called in to witness the dying agonies of a person who was said to have murdered his wife in the lower country.
His ghastly form, attenuated by disease, long-suffering, and mental disquietude, lay extended upon a wretched bed, his life-stream evidently fast ebbing away. Beside it stood his daughter, an interesting child, of about ten years of age; she was offering him a cup, the contents of which he did not evince the slightest desire to taste. The poor girl, nevertheless, pressed it upon him with the tenderness so peculiar to the female sex, even at this early age.
“Now do, father, there's a dear,” she said, in a soothing, coaxing tone of voice; “it will do you good, I'm sure it will.” And, as she uttered these words, her hot tears fell upon his pillow, and wetted his face.
The dying man opened his eyes, and stared fixedly at her a few seconds, then closed them again.
“Come, father, dear, do try now,” exclaimed the poor child once more, wiping away with the hand that was free the tears which had fallen on his cheek, whilst she strove to check her sobs. But perceiving that he stirred not, she turned round to me, and said, “Oh, sir, I am afraid father's very ill, this time. He's never been so bad before.”
I could not witness this affecting scene unmoved; and, as I stood gazing upon it, and watching the gentle affection with which this poor child ministered to the wants of her mother's murderer, I wondered whether, in the lucid intervals of that man's long agony, his child's love had awakened his conscience to repentance for his fearful crime, or to an
“I am afraid he is, my poor child,” I said.
“Oh, sir, he has suffered so!” she resumed, sobbing as she wiped her eyes; “but I would rather hear him groan, than see him lie so still.” Here she bent her face close to his; and, kissing him on the cheek, again addressed him in a low but agonized voice.
“Father, father,” she repeated, “do look at me, there's a dear father.”
The murderer suddenly cast his right arm up with convulsive force; then, clenching his fist, and letting his hand fall again on the coverlet, he grasped it as if he would tear it into shreds. The agony lasted but a moment or two, however; for he again opened his eyes, and stared vacantly at his daughter, but without making any sign of recognition. He did not close them again; and, although they glared with an almost fierce brightness for a few seconds, it was with the glassy brilliancy of dissolution; and when it had faded away, he was dead. He had expired without a
No one spoke, for we knew how it was, and felt overawed in the presence of Death. The girl first broke silence.
She remained, with her eyes riveted upon her father's face, and holding the cup which she had offered him. Perceiving that he did not move, and that a strange and incomprehensible change had taken place, she bent down to him quickly, and laid her cheek against his—for the bed was a very low one—then placed her hand on his breast, which was bared. She now understood the great change that had taken place in him; and never shall I forget the agonizing sob that burst from her, as, letting the cup fall on the floor, she sank down by his side, half kneeling, half crouching, and exclaimed:
“Oh, my God! He's dead! And I am quite alone!”
It was indeed a piteous spectacle to witness the deep anguish of that poor orphan; but
During the protracted stay I was obliged to make in the town, I enjoyed frequent opportunities of cultivating the acquaintance of Mr. Graham, a Tennessean hunter and back-woodsman, who, by his bravery and characteristic love of independence, has inscribed his name in the history of California. Several years previously, he had come over the Rocky Mountains, and was one of the oldest American settlers in the country. Age, as Mr.
At that period, General Echuandra was Commandant-General of the country. He was a man, it seems, of a most grasping and mercenary disposition, committing the grossest peculations, and defrauding the revenues and the people to a ruinous extent. No wonder, then, that great discontent prevailed, and that public indignation should be aroused, and be ready to burst forth on the very first occasion. The crisis at length arrived. A vessel having just come into the roadstead of Monterey, the General—as was his practice—placed a guard on board. To this proceeding the officers of the vessel objected, and deputed a clerk, one Juan Baptise Alvarado by name, to
With the spring and its verdure came a brig into the harbour of Monterey, bound for San Francisco. I resisted the entreaties of a large party of volunteers who were about to set out for the mines, and wished me to join them; for my determination was—if I went gold-hunting again—to try my fortune in some of the upper “diggins,” which I could
But surely never was there such a brig, nor such a crew. She belonged to some Monterey people, and had been detained on her voyage home. If, when she had got safely back to this port, her owners had condemned her as unseaworthy, they would only have been doing their duty, and manifesting a due regard for life and property. But I suppose they thought
I have often thought of that memorable voyage, and to this very hour wonder by what lucky combination of chances we succeeded in getting to San Francisco. Considering all things, I should not have been more surprised had we made Cape Horn.
Our entry into the Bay of San Francisco—The Strait—The Bay—Its beautiful situation—Description of the Bay—Pueblo and Suissoon Bays—Former insignificance of San Francisco—The discovery of the gold mines—The voice of Mammon—The change—The town of San Francisco as it appears from the Bay—The Island of Goats—Sacramento city—The route by water—Some particulars concerning Sacramento city—Ground-rents—The “red woods” of Pueblo—Their peculiarities.
From the magnificent descriptions I had heard of the celebrated Bay of San Francisco, I experienced no inconsiderable degree of disappointment when we entered the narrow gap in the coast-land which opens into its waters, and which did not appear to me to be more than a hundred feet in width. This opening, as seen from the ocean, presents the complete appearance of a simple mountain-pass—abruptly cutting in two the continuous line of
Having passed through this gap, or I might
Proceeding up the strait, we found the real or second entrance to the Bay barred by an enormous rock, which offers a capital site for a fort. To the left of it, in an embrasure of the land, lay the flag-ship Ohio, which, seen from this distance, appeared like a miniature man-of-war, several others of lesser dimensions, but of the same character, being dotted about here and there, at convenient anchorages. I learned that these vessels had taken up their position at this spot—although inconveniently distant from the town—with a
Having passed this huge rock, which rises sheer out of the water to a considerable height, and may be some 60 or 100 feet in breadth, the Bay of San Francisco burst upon us in all its beauty; and, excited as my imagination had been by the numerous descriptions I had heard of it, I was unprepared for the magnificent scene which presented itself to my view, as our crazy vessel glided sluggishly over its placid waters.
Its first aspect is that of a long lake, lying embosomed between parallel ranges of mountains, in the midst of a country of Alpine character; but the eye, soon accustoming itself to dissect the beautiful landscape, perceives that the monotony of its glassy surface
Immediately opposite the entrance to the Bay, and forming a back-ground of unsurpassed majesty of appearance, rises, at a few miles distant from the shore, a chain of mountains, which shoot aloft to an elevation of two thousand feet above the level of the water, and whose summits are crowned by a splendid forest-growth of ancient cypress, distinctly visible from the Pacific, and presenting a conspicuous landmark for vessels entering the Bay. Towering behind these, again, like the master-sentinel of the golden regions which it overlooks, is the rugged peak of Mount Diablo, rearing its antediluvian, granite head, hoar with
The immediate shores of the Bay are known by the name of contra costa (the counter, or opposite coast), this designation being derived from their proximity and opposite relation to the sea. Their character is varied, presenting a front of broken and rugged hills, rolling and undulating lands, and rich, alluvial shores, having in their rear fertile and wooded ranges, admirably adapted as a site for towns, villages, and farms; with which latter they were already dotted. The foot of the mountains around the southern arm of the Bay is a low, alluvial bottom-land, extending several miles in breadth, being interspersed with and relieved by occasional open woods of oak, and terminating, on a breadth of twenty miles, in the fertile valley of San Josef.
A narrower examination of the Bay shows that it is divided by straits and projecting points, or small promontories, into three distinct bays, that of San Francisco being, of
The Suissoon is, moreover, connected with an expansion of water formed by the confluence of the Sacramento with the San Joachin, both of which enter the Bay of San Francisco in about the same latitude as the mouth of the Tagus at Lisbon; the valleys of the San Joachin and Sacramento forming their junction with the Bay by a delta of some twenty-five miles in length, divided into islands by deep channels, into the mouths of
From this general, but, I believe, accurate description of this celebrated Bay, it will be perceived that, unlike the majority of bays, it is not a simple indentation of the coast, but a little Mediterranean in itself, having bold shores and a fertile country adjacent, and being connected with the ocean by a gate of rock, or a strait, of not more than one mile and a half at its greatest width; then suddenly opening out, as soon as it is past, into an expanse of between seventy and eighty miles, completely landlocked, with an average breadth of from ten to fifteen miles, the head of the Bay being distant from the sea nearly forty miles, at which point commences its connexion with the noble and beautiful valleys of the San Joachin and Sacramento.
I may add of it, that the water at the entrance and inside of it is of a depth sufficient to admit the largest vessels that were ever constructed, which can ride here in perfect
At the time I speak of—although, but a short period before, its waters were comparatively unfrequented—I beheld its glistening surface crowded with vessels of all dimensions, and from various countries; so vast and important a change had the discovery of the golden treasures entombed in the remote and rugged ravines of the Sacramento and San Joachin, wrought for San Francisco Bay. It seemed as if a century in its history had been anticipated by the stroke of some all-potent magician's wand, or by the power of some spell of irresistible force; and that, under their influence, it had become in a moment a centre of attraction to the living world. For ages had those huge mountains held their vast riches undisturbed by man; for ages had the waters from their granite sides washed the valleys at their feet, leaving, in their hurried
But suddenly—almost in a night, as it would seem—the silvery waters of the Bay are alive with fleets, spreading their white canvass to the breeze, as, laden with a living freight of anxious men, and with the produce of distant and civilized climes, they glide on their silent way towards the golden gates of this treasure-gorged region. A voice has gone forth that here is to be found the idol which all men worship; and Mammon summons his followers to his shrine. The summons peals like thunder through the gorges of the mountains, and spreads far and wide over the plains. Quickly is the response taken up; and now it rings loud above the din of the thrift-seeking multitudes in the bustling cities of the Western World—startling Learning and Science from their deep reveries; Husbandry from its labours; plodding Industry from her peaceful occupations; awakening Ambition from its restless sleep; inspiring Commerce with freshened energies; arousing Speculation
Quick as the light which turns the darkness into day, the phantom-voice travels the wide world round, until once more it sweeps over the Bay from whence it issued. All is bustle and confusion where once the stillness of nature reigned. The golden valleys are alive with men, prostrate at the worship of their idol. A city has sprung up in the desert. The wilderness has budded and blossomed
The town of San Francisco is situated on the south side of the entrance to the Bay, from which it is distant about six miles, having opposite to it an island called Goat's Island, (Yerba Buena) on account of the number of these animals found upon it. It is covered with abundance of grass and brushwood, and forms a conspicuous and picturesque object in the harbour, rising out of the centre of the clear waters, here and there deepened by the bold shadows of the surrounding hills. The flow and ebb of the tide here are sufficiently strong to bring a vessel to the anchorage in front of the town, and to carry it outside without the aid of wind, or even against an unfavourable one. San Francisco itself is about
The site of the town is in a sort of irregular valley, surrounded by the lofty hills I have already mentioned, and presents, from the water-side, a confused spectacle of innumerable houses, heterogeneous in form, substance, and arrangement. I was not yet, however, to make more intimate acquaintance with it, for our vessel lay at a considerable distance from the landing-place, and our men were too anxious to go ashore, to wait until I could collect my luggage, and make the necessary preparations for accompanying them in the boat.
We had been boarded by a custom-house officer shortly after the anchor was cast, and I felt not a little pleased to recognise in him an old acquaintance. He had also visited the mines, having gone thither from San Francisco; and I was indebted to him for much
Landing is very difficult at Sacramento city, even at high water, there being no convenience for this purpose, except such as is afforded by
At the period of which I am writing, Sacramento city might have numbered about four hundred dwellings, including stores; the large majority of these consisted of sheds—so little did they deserve the appellation of houses—constructed partly of wood, partly of canvass, amongst which might be counted half a dozen of good frame-boarded residences. They seem to have been erected with some pretension to regularity, as they form streets, running parallel and at right angles with the river. Most of them are trading establishments, about a dozen figuring as hotels, and a large proportion of the remainder being grog-shops; in fact, to speak more particularly, there is not a house SACRAMENTO CITY.
The principal store is kept by a Mormon, who, having arrived in the country and settled in it previous to the discovery of the mines, had already succeeded in amassing a large fortune. The eating-houses—or hotels, as they are somewhat pompously called—do a most extensive business; for, as appetites less frequently fail than the supplies of provisions, there is ample opportunity for levying heavy contributions upon the hungry. As a general rule, however, the charge for board and lodging is nearly the same as at San Francisco, though the accommodation is bad, to the last degree, none of these eating or lodging-houses containing any beds, the lodgers being obliged to stretch themselves on any available spot of ground, or convenient article of furniture. The influx of strangers is so great, indeed, that, notwithstanding the rapidity with which these ephemeral dwellings are erected, and the innumerable tents of every form and size scattered in the suburbs, the population is far in
But, although Sacramento city offers sq few comforts and attractions, and attempt has been made at magnificence in the erection of a handsome tent—a wall-tent, as it is commonly called—of a circular form, having perpendicular sides, and which is about thirty feet in diameter, by twenty-five in height, from the conical top of which floats a large red flag, inscribed with the words, “Miners' Exchange,” in large letters. Its use is admirably illustrative of the prevailing spirit, and of the marvellous shrewdness exhibited by speculators in taking advantage of it. It is furnished within with six or eight large gambling-tables, each of which is let out at the nightly rental of twelve dollars. They are usually crowded to inconvenience by persons who come to try their fortune, and who frequently lose their all at various games of chance, the principal being monté and rouge-et-noir.
This establishment was started by two individuals, one of them, a mere boy, who had made
Ground-rents range excessively high; and speculators in land, who were early in the field, and commanded capital, have been enabled to exact enormous sums from those who sought to establish themselves on particular spots. Building-lots, measuring about 25 feet by 50, were worth 10,000 dollars, and extremely
In short, Sacramento city owes its growing importance entirely to the discovery of the gold mines, and to its admirable position as a starting-point to the upper ones. It certainly is not a desirable dwelling-place at present, whatever it may eventually become, though it admirably serves its purpose, namely, to offer to the vast multitude of birds of passage that flock to this region a spot where they may find a temporary rest for the soles of their feet ere they migrate further north. From hence, indeed, oxen and mule-teams are constantly travelling to all the “diggins,” and every available mode of conveyance seems in request; so much so, that only lately they were charging carriage at the rate of one hundred dollars a hundred weight of a
I may add, that the “red woods,” which are situated to the north-west of Pueblo Bay, constitute a remarkable and an agreeable feature in the landscape. They are of great extent, and, previously to the discovery of the gold mines, supplied the natives with the chief part of the timber they use. But they were also notorious as the resort of robbers and deserters of every description, who here carried on their lawless practices, secure against pursuit, adding to their unlawful gains by the more honest recompense they received for sawing and felling timber.
This “red wood” is a species of cedar, and seems more abundant in these parts than any other kind of native wood I saw. It possesses many singular properties, and amongst others, that of turning quite black when scoured, but, when polished and varnished, assuming the appearance of mahogany. It is extremely
Difficulties of landing—A ruse de guerre —First aspect of San Francisco, as seen from a height—Scene on the beach, on the arrival of an emigrant ship—Dandies at a discount—Friends from the “diggins”—Early history of San Francisco, under the Spaniards and Mexicans—Its rise, present prosperity, and future prospects—The Mission of San Dolores.
Eagerly desirous as I was to escape from the confinement of the vessel, and to see the town, I beheld the boat and her crew depart with feelings of considerable mortification and disappointment. We were moored far away from any other vessel, and from the landing-place, and at least three hours elapsed before I succeeded in attracting the attention of any of the boatmen. At length two Kanakas, who had just returned from the shore to one of the traders, seemed to understand that I wanted them, though they made no effort to come
“Don't you want to buy anything? I've got some clothes to sell. Won't you have'em? They're dog cheap.”
The artifice succeeded, and they were very soon alongside our vessel; when I discovered the boat to be too small and too leaky to take my luggage and myself at the same time: I therefore determined to leave the former on board for the present; and, although the men seemed disappointed at losing an opportunity of striking a bargain for clothes, they readily undertook to convey me to the landing, which was about a quarter of a mile off, and for doing which they charged me the modest sum of two dollars and a half.
The landing-place appeared to have been constructed less for the convenience of foot-passengers, than to afford facilities for the disembarkation of luggage and goods from on board the vessels, for which purpose it stretches
On landing, I had to clamber up a steep hill, on the top of which, and opposite to where I stood, was a large wooden house, two stories high, and scarcely half finished. In the rear of this, rose another and a steeper hill, whose slopes were covered with a multiplicity of tents. To my right, ran a sort of steep, or precipice, defended by sundry pieces of cannon, which commanded the entrance to the harbour. I next came to the “Point,” and, crossing it, found myself within the town.
The first objects that attracted my notice were several canvass houses, measuring from ten to forty feet square, some being grog-shops, others eating-establishments, and the larger set apart as warehouses, or places of storage. The proprietors of the latter were making enormous sums by the accommodation their tents afforded to the hundreds of travellers who were arriving every day from different parts, and who, being extremely embarrassed as to what they should do with their luggage, were heartily glad to find any safe place to store it in, and content to pay for the convenience. As I passed another half-completed wooden structure, I thought I would venture upon an inquiry, just by way of ascertaining whether I had any chance of procuring employment as a house-painter. I was offered thirty-six dollars a-week; an offer I did not immediately accept, notwithstanding the favourable reception I met with.
The spectacle which the beach presented from a convenient opening, whence I could comprise the whole at a glance, was singularlyniaiseries at their proper value. By their side stalked the stately and dignified Spaniard, covered with his broad-brimmed, low-crowned sombrero, and gracefully enveloped in his ample serapa, set off by a bright scarlet sash. He turns neither to the right nor to the left, nor heeds the crowd about
“Oh, California! That's the land for me!
I'm bound for the Sacramento, with
The wash-bowl on my knee.”
And presently, their brother-adventurers, excited by hopes of the wildest kind, join vociferously in chorus, in the exuberance of their joy.
A group of Englishmen, muscular in form, and honest in feature, are chaffering with the keen-witted Yankee porters for the carriage of their luggage. There is an air of dogged resolution about them, that plainly indicates they will not submit to what they evidently
Here come a number of Chilians and Peruvians, and a goodly number of natives from the Sandwich Islands. A couple of Irishmen, too! I know them by their vivacity, and by the odd trick they have of getting into every body's way; to say nothing of their broad, merry faces. Their property is in common, it seems; for they have only one small pack between them.
Here come ten or a dozen plainly but comfortably dressed mechanics; hard-working looking men they seem, and just the sort of persons to make their way in a country where the artisan occupies his proper position, and where honest toil—and dishonest, too,
The human stream ceases not to flow from the vessels in the harbour; no sooner is one boat-load disposed of than another arrives, and so on, until the town is gorged with new-comers, who, after a few days' sojourn, to recruit their strength, after the fatigues of a long and irksome voyage, depart, and are seen no more for months; many, perhaps, never to return. Very few of this vast multitude deserve the epithet of poor. To get here at all requires money; and to maintain one's-self,
The majority of the emigrants are men occupying a respectable station in society; some are even distinguished in their calling: but the eager desire of making a fortune in a hurry has induced them to throw up good employments and comfortable homes; to leave friends, relatives, connexions, wife, children, and familiar associations, to embark their strength, intelligence, and activity, in this venture. All is bustle where they have landed: boats going to and fro; rafts slowly discharging their cumbrous loads; porters anxiously and interestedly civil; all excited; all bent on gain: ships innumerable in the bay; mountains around; a clear, blue sky above; and the bright waters dancing in the sun, until they touch the horizon in the distance, blending their brightness with his golden track.
I walked on until I came up to a group of men, who, like myself, were looking on the busy scene before us with no small degree of interest. I recognised amongst them two of
An individual of this number, nevertheless, was compelled to remain longer than he anticipated; for, having returned to the mines,
The party had come down from the mines to make purchases, and to enjoy a little recreation. They were admirable specimens of their class—hardy in appearance, and rough in demeanour; but shrewd, withal, and toil-enduring. For the moment, their conversation turned upon the prospects of the newly-landed emigrants—for I should have stated that there were one or two arrivals in the harbour—and they were unsparing of their remarks upon such of the new-comers as by their dress, or any physical peculiarity, offered a fair target for their witticisms, which were not less pointed than coarse.
With regard to the town towards which all were pressing, they expressed an unanimous opinion. It was the most wonderful
Some few years previously, San Francisco consisted of but some three or four wooden and adobè houses, inhabited by a few Californians and sailors; the latter seeming to have been cast upon the shore—like stray whales—rather by chance, or ill-luck, than enticed to locate themselves here by any prospect of bettering their condition. The climate of this particular spot certainly offered no inducement; whilst the spirit of commerce had not yet sufficiently extended along the shores of the Pacific to reach this harbour, and make known to the world its extraordinary beauty, and the facilities it offered for the development of industry and trade.
For a space of nearly two centuries, the degenerated Spanish race had held the whole country, never dreaming of its value, nor, in their sluggishness, deeming the improvement and development of its resources possible. Though a people as eminently qualified by nature in every respect as their Anglo-Saxon conquerors, to aid the general cause of progress, their efforts had been confined to procuring the mere necessaries of existence, to an indulgence in the enjoyments of a semi-savage life, and to a complete abandonment to the practice of some of the worst vices of civilization. Whilst they neglected to introduce and to cultivate those useful arts which alone can create or add to a nation's greatness, or elevate the individual, the chief ambition of young and old, throughout California, under Spanish rule, was to attain to excellence in horsemanship; to acquire dexterity in the use of the lasso; to become proficient at monté, bill-cards, and nine-pins; and to become adepts at the numerous tricks and subtleties peculiar to games where skill
So engrossed were they in these pursuits—the majority of them frivolous—that it was not to be wondered at that their missions and towns should be gradually deserted, and fall into ruins; at once a standing reproach to the people, for their negligence and effeminacy, and to the Mexican Government, for its supineness, its reckless, narrow-minded policy, its prejudices, and its injustice. In the hands of any other people, these missions might and would have been made the legitimate instruments of improving the population, and of ministering no less to their physical necessities than to their spiritual requirements.
Instead of becoming the nucleus of intrigues, they would have been converted into so many centres, whence would have radiated streams of intelligence and civilization, which must rapidly have changed the entire aspect of the country, and not less powerfully co-operated to develop the minds of the people, and elevate their character. But, under the
Beneath the cherishing wing of the American Government, a splendid destiny opens before it as a great commercial emporium; and, even had the gold mines never been discovered, the working of which has imparted such a sudden and so extraordinary an impetus to its growth, the natural advantages of the harbour could not have long remained unknown to the trading populations of the busy East; for it must, under the restless energy of the Yankees, have become, in course of time, the principal resort of their vessels of war, of merchantmen and whalers; whilst the hardy Anglo-Saxon emigrants would eventually have flocked into the country, eager to open up a new and a wider field for their industry. Agriculture, too, would soon have claimed its right to measure the strength of its sinewy arm against the stubbornness of the soil,
Yet no one acquainted intimately with California can pronounce it as being particularly well adapted for agriculture. Something in this way can and will undoubtedly be effected; but the country must owe its future eminence wholly to the admirable position of San Francisco, which—especially with reference to China and the Sandwich Islands—has the entire East at its command. This circumstance alone would have rendered the acquisition of California of paramount importance
The discovery of the gold mines, however, has done at once for San Francisco what it was reasonable to anticipate time only could have effected; and its progress in importance has far outstripped the most sanguine expectations which could be based upon anysummer winds, and the land in its vicinity being richer, and comparatively level, had attracted the early settlers, and the Mission of Dolores as it was styled, had long been far in advance of San Francisco, previously to the invasion of the country by the Americans, in 1846, and contained, besides the church, a great many substantial adobè houses, with a population of 500 persons. Since San Francisco has shot up into repute, Dolores has declined, and will doubtless yield completely to its rival ere many years have elapsed.
Having given my impressions of San Francisco, as derived from a cursory inspection of its exterior, I will now examine it more in detail, reminding the reader that if he feels desirous of accompanying me in my explorations, he must not be over fastidious as to the company he may occasionally meet with.
The Washington Market—The Colonnade—The Gotham Saloon—The Plaza—The Miners' Bank—The Parker House—The Café Francais—An old acquaintance—Notions respecting the mines and things in general, as they appeared at San Francisco—High price of provisions—The Gamblers of the Parker House—Some account of the game of monté —Tricks of the game—Tapping, and barring, and bursting—The Golden Eagle—The El-Dorado—Gamesters' chances—Curious customers—Jemmy Twitcher—The City Hotel—The Custom-House—A prudent calculation—My first night in San Francisco.
As I proceeded along the road leading into the principal street of the city, I was uncomfortably reminded that it would soon become necessary for me to select a place where I could procure refreshment; and in connexion with this necessity, arose another consideration no less important, namely, where I should lodge? There was no other mode of solving the difficulty, save by an exploration of the
In this same road, but nearer to the entrance of the main street than I should say was, under any circumstances, altogether pleasant, stood the correl of the Washington Market, being a spacious area of ground, enclosed with stakes, over which were stretched raw hides. Owing to the large number of cattle slaughtered here for the use of the inhabitants, the odour from this place was insufferable, and I quickened my pace until my olfactory organs became sensible of a purer atmosphere.
I turned into the principal street, and soon came up to the Market itself, which is a wooden house, about thirty feet square, kept by an American. To my right, as I advanced, were some stores and hotels, and a confectioner's shop of remarkably neat and clean appearance: these were all one story, wooden buildings. One of the hotels was appropriately designated as “The Colonnade.” It was kept by amonté rooms and a large bowling-alley, where persons who had a taste for the latter amusement might indulge in their favourite pastime for a dollar a game. This Saloon was likewise kept by two volunteers, as was also the confectioner's by a fourth; so that three of the most noted houses in the town were rented by men who, a few months before, scarcely possessed anything save their enterprise and their industry, but who were now on the high road to opulence. The more credit was due to them, and others of their brethren whom fortune had similarly favoured, because, at first, they had deep-rooted prejudices to encounter, which prudence and perseverance only could have enabled them to overcome.
I came next to the Square, or “Plaza,” on one side of which, and fronting it, stood the
I passed another hotel, similar to this one, but not quite so large, and came presently to a low wooden house, of most unattractive and unprepossessing exterior, which was dignified by the name of the “ HOW TO TURN A SHIP's COOKING-GALLEY INTO A CAFÉ RESTAURANT.Café Français.” As this seemed likely to suit my present convenience, and to promise a scale of prices on a par with its external appearance, I entered boldly, and seated myself at the dining-table. I noticed, as I went in, that, notwithstanding the poverty without, there
was abundance within; the counter being literally overcharge with French pastry, a variety of ingenious culinary preparations, and some foreign liquors. Whilst my dinner was preparing, I scanned the faces about me, and felt much pleased to recognise in one of the guests an old acquaintance from New York, although he was disguised à la Californienne, his person being enveloped in a handsome serapa. He did not know me again, when I first addressed him, but soon recollecting me, we entered into conversation.
“You are so altered in dress and countenance,” he said, shaking me heartily by the hand, as he seated himself by me, “that I could scarcely recognise you. You are about one of the last men I should have expected to meet with in California. You've been to the mines, of course?”
I answered in the affirmative.
“What success had you? Good, I hope.”
“But middling. Indeed, I may say I have been very unsuccessful as a digger.”
“Sorry for that! Is there really as much
“Perhaps so; but it is true, nevertheless: and, although I have been greatly disappointed in what I went to do, and what I saw, I am not disposed to decry the ‘diggins,’ and to derogate from their reputation for richness.”
“How was it fared so poorly, then?”
“The truth is, that they who want gold must work very hard to get it. There is abundance of it, I am persuaded; but only such men as can endure the hardships and privations incidental to life in the mines, are likely to make fortunes by digging for the ore. I am unequal to the task.”
“Well, I asked the question because I have met with a great many persons who, having been disappointed—possibly, from a similar cause—abuse the mines and the country, and, on their return home, set to work contradicting all the fine tales told about them. I suppose a journey to them pays, however?”
“Knowing what I know, and having seen as much as I have, I would not advise any
“That sounds strange, too; but it only corroborates what I have already heard fifty times over. I think I could, within an hour, assemble in this very place from twenty to thirty individuals of my own acquaintance, who would all tell the same story. They are thoroughly dissatisfied and disgusted with their experiment in the gold country. The truth of the matter is, that only traders, speculators, and gamblers, make large fortunes. I question very much—from the information I have been able to derive from one and the other—whether two-thirds of the gold dug out by the hard-working but imprudent miners do not pass into the hands of such men; and I feel satisfied that few of the gold-hunters—notwithstanding they may, some of them, have picked up, in the best season, sums exceeding seven thousand dollars—will return home very much richer than they left it.”
“Don't you think that the great moneymaking season is over, even for the speculators?”
“It's hard to say what there is left in the mines; but, supposing they should continue to yield abundantly, as they doubtless will for some little time longer, their reputation for inexhaustible resources will attract an incalculable number of emigrants, who will all—or the majority of them, at least—flock to the “diggins;” but in proportion as the numbers of the diggers increase, will their chances diminish of picking up any very great quantity of gold; and their failure, in this respect, must necessarily affect the traders and speculators; for a man who has realized by the hardest labour only eight dollars a day, is not so likely to pay thirty or forty dollars for a coat, as he is who has dug out a hundred dollars'-worth in the same time. Then there are the markets, which, in consequence of the influx of so many strangers, will become glutted with all sorts of goods. This must bring down the prices of things, and will
“But surely, folks will reply to that—the more people that come into the country, and go to the mines, the more gold will be dug out, in the aggregate, and the greater will be the demand for goods. Even should prices come down—as, in the natural course of business operations, they must—merchants will make up for the decline by the greater bulk and amount of sales. I have invariably met with this reply, when I have ventured to express opinions similar to your own.”
“Such an argument rests upon an assumption; for it is taken for granted that all who
“Well, then, ground-rents must come down.”
“Not a bit of it! People who come here must lodge somewhere; houses and tents must be built; and, if the holders of land can't get their price one way, you may rely upon it, they will in another. What they fail to get out of the bulk, they will make up in the detail. I can give you an illustration. A man I know had a lot, and let it very well; but he kept on raising the rent, till his tenant told him he couldn't pay so much. ‘Well,’ says this man, ‘I guess you had better clear out.’ And so he did. The landlord then divided the lot into sections, and let each at a
“Well, I suppose you are not going to the mines, as you seem to entertain doubts respecting them?”
“Not I, faith! I am going to do what is better than digging for gold, on a chance of finding it. I shall speculate; and, if my scheme proves successful, I shall realize a fortune in a short time. Have you any inclination to join me in it?”
“What kind of a spec. is it?”
“A theatrical one. I want to build a large establishment for dramatic representations. Come!—six thousand dollars, and the partnership is a done thing. It will be a substantial investment, I can tell you. You will treble your money in a few months.”
“I am not in a position to become your partner, for I am as poor as a church-mouse, just now. But I imagine that, if the
“I suppose I shall. As to its succeeding, I have no doubt about it. A theatre, you see, must attract, because here it would not only be a novelty, but would offer cheap entertainment; at least, much cheaper than the gambling-tables. People gamble here, because they have nothing better to do, and no other place to go to but the monté and roulette saloons. Besides, if need be, we can do a little in the same line ourselves. What do you think of it, eh?”
“It appears to me to be a very feasible undertaking, and, I dare say, will succeed; but, as I have not the dollars, I cannot join you.”
“Well, that's a fact; for the dollars are a sine qua non. It's six thousand pities, as you are just the sort of man I want.”
“Much obliged for your flattering opinion; but this is not the first good chance I have
“No, don't, unless you can make money by it. I shall see you again soon, I dare say. I must be off now. Good by.”
My friend went away, after shaking me warmly by the hand; and, as I had finished my repast, consisting of a beef-steak, two eggs, and a couple of cups of coffee, I prepared to follow him. I specify the items of which my repast was made up, because of the price I paid for them—namely, two dollars and a half. I was informed, on hazarding an observation respecting the amount, that the charges were excessively moderate, any thing in the shape of a dinner being usually charged one dollar and fifty cents; half a dollar each for the eggs, which were extras, was only a reasonable price for such luxuries, as they frequently sold for double. I considered the information thus obtained to be cheap, of its kind, and went away with
As I repassed the “Parker House,” the hôtel, par excellence, of San Francisco, I went in, knowing that, like all similar establishments, there were the usual amusements going on within.
This is not only the largest, but the handsomest building in San Francisco; and, having been constructed at enormous expense, and entirely on speculation, a concurrence of fortunate circumstances alone, such as had followed upon the discovery of the gold mines, could have ensured its prosperity. It was now one of the most frequented, fashionable, and firmly established hotels in the country; and, in so far as it presented a model to the builders and settlers in the town, was a signal illustration of the shrewdness and enterprise of the Yankee character, and a standing credit to the projectors and proprietors.
It is built entirely of wood, and contains two very spacious principal rooms; the one acum multis aliis.
The saloon contains two very handsome billiard-tables, which are constantly occupied by players, chiefly Americans, some of them of first-rate excellence. The charge was a dollar per game of a hundred, and they were no sooner vacated by one party than another came in. At one of them I saw Mr. C—, of Monterey, whom I have already alluded to. He was engaged in a game with a New Orleans man, who, with some difficulty, beat him. He paid his loss with great sang froid, and crossed over to the monté -tables, where he lost about eight ounces; but soon won
The establishment contained nine gambling-tables, which were crowded, day and night, by the citizens and the miners; many of the latter staking very large sums upon the turn of a card. The stakes, however, varied from twenty-five cents to five thousand dollars; and the excitement of some of the losers was frequently fearful to contemplate. Some who gained largely prudently withdrew; and I was informed that, a few days previously to my arrival, a new-comer from the States, who was bound for the mines, having come into the saloon, and tried his fortune at the monté -tables, luckily made twenty thousand dollars, with which he returned home, by the steamer, two days afterwards.
As this game of monté is not generally known, except in Spanish countries, some description of it may not prove unacceptable.
It is apparently very simple. The table is covered with a cloth—usually black—and divided off into four compartments,croupiers, seated opposite to each other, whose duties are, the one to shuffle and deal the cards, the other to “pay off;” and the office of the latter is by no means a sinecure. The bets being made, for and against, the cards are cast; and the bettors on the fortunate colours receive double the amount of their stake, the deposits, or en-jeux of the losers, being appropriated to paying the bets made by parties on the opposite side. If there is any residue, it is swept off into the bank in the centre of the table. You may, however, be what is termed “caught in the door;” that is, the colour or suit on which you bet may appear on the top
Notwithstanding the skill and adroitness of the dealers, they very often encounter difficult customers, who are equally as cunning as themselves, and who, by a peculiar process known as “tapping,” involve them in heavy losses, even to the extent of the entire capital of the bank. When the dealer is challenged “to tap,” he may decline; though I never saw it done once. I suppose a refusal implies that there is a doubt respecting the honesty of the play, and it is not considered good policy to refuse. The “tapper” proceeds to stake a sum, equal to the amount in the centre of the table, upon a particular colour, which, if it turn up first, entitles him to sweep away the whole sum. I have seen many banks exhausted by this process. When a bank is cleaned out, it is said to be “bursted.” Not unfrequently one of the bettors against the bank, who may have staked a considerable sum, if he entertain any suspicion of trickery, will request permission, when the betting-cards have been laid out, to deal the remainder himself; a request rarely refused. It is aesprit-de-corps amongst the Californian gamesters manifests itself in a manner which—apart from any consideration of morality that may be involved—does them infinite credit, as they never fail to lend to the banks that may chance to have been broken down, or “bursted.” I saw enough to convince me that, although, if fairly played, monté is strictly a game of chance, it affords far too many facilities for cheating to justify one in risking much at it. Some of the experienced gamblers seemed able to calculate, with a nicety of tact and judgment that surprised me, the succession of suits as they turned up, so as to almost possess a power of staking with a certainty of winning. Indeed,
The “Golden Eagle” ( l'Aguila d'Oro ) is another gambling establishment, situated in one of the streets leading into the Plaza. It is a canvass house, about fifty feet square, fitted up with the requisites for play, and let out by the proprietor at the rate of fifteen hundred dollars a month. Every available spot around the tables was crowded to inconvenience by persons who were engaged deeply in the game, the majority standing up and watching the chances with countenances betokening the greatest excitement.
I took particular interest in one of the players, a Spaniard, very poorly dressed, but who was betting at the rate of from twenty to forty ounces at a time. It was almost edifying to witness the equanimity with which, amidst the general excitement, he lost his money. He played at monté until he was relieved ofmonté -table. He staked eight ounces on the “ cavallo,” a face-card, representing a female on a horse, and which we call the “Queen,” and doubled his venture the first deal. The Spaniard swept up his gains with a smile; the dealer looked as cool as ice in autumn, called for liquor and cigars, and laid out anew. The “Queen” once more fell out; and the Spaniard, faithful to his colours, betted in her favour again, but barred the door. The “seven of clubs” was in the door, and the roulette man took back his money. Not so many others, who, less cautious, lost large sums. The play continued, and the Spaniard invariably won, until all the gold that had been in the centre of the table was ranged by his side: it might have amounted to several
At another table, a scene of a different kind took place. There came in a rough-looking individual, whom, from his appearance, I judged to be a miner, and who, throwing down a twenty-five cent piece, declared, with an oath, that he would stake his all upon the first card dealt. He won, and continued playing and winning, increasing the amount of his bets until they attained the GAMBLING SCENE IN SAN FRANCISCO.
“I am off now! I think I've got enough to treat all my friends.”
With this remark, and a very peculiar gesture to the banker, who was trying to persuade him to have another turn, he hurried away, amidst the laughter of the company.
On leaving the Golden Eagle, I crossed over to the El-Dorado, a similar establishment, constructed of canvass, and, like the one I had just left, crowded to suffocation, although with a lower class of players. Nevertheless, the sums of money won and lost here are astounding. I could scarcely find elbowroom; whilst the heat arising from so many persons, the fumes of tobacco, the rank atmosphere, and the noise, and crowding, and jostling of so many drunken Spaniards and Americans, rendered a stay here—even for a limited time—excessively disagreeable.
Whilst I stood watching the game, there entered a singular-looking person, attired in
“Just like Jemmy Twitcher!” said one of the bystanders.
As nobody asked who Jemmy Twitcher was, I concluded that everybody knew him: and, wishing to be equally well informed, ventured to ask of a person who stood close by me.
“He's one of the Hounds,” replied my informant, without turning his head aside.
I was no wiser than before; but, as the game was now being made, and the general attention fixed upon the table, I contented myself for the present with the information that Jemmy Twitcher was a Hound, and no doubt too celebrated a character for me to remain in San Francisco long, without learning more about him and his fraternity.
I now proceeded to the City Hotel, a large but somewhat antiquated building, constructed of adobé, after the Spanish fashion, but hybridized by American improvements. The interior was even more insufferable than the El-Dorado, in respect of the boisterousness of its frequenters. In the first room that I entered were five gambling-tables, doing a “smashing business;” a term employed, somewhat in contradiction to its import, to denote
Here I met with another of the volunteers, who proposing a walk, we went out together, and proceeded to the Plaza. I found a good many old acquaintances set up in business at this spot; one, who had been a captain, had recently turned money-broker, and now kept an office for the exchange of coin and golddust, having entered into partnership with a highly respectable and agreeable individual, of active business habits, who promised to prove a great acquisition to the concern. Theirs was the only establishment of the kind in the town; and, as the miners are always ready to sacrifice a dollar or two per ounce, for the convenience of possessing coin, I have no doubt they have by this time realized a very
Speaking to my friend of the Parker House, he told me that one of the present propietors of it had been a dragoon in the regular service, who had made a fortune at monté, at which game he was considered to excel. He informed me, too, that the majority of the lawyers and doctors whose signs I had observed, were nothing more than clerks and apothecaries, who had come from the United States upon a venture.
By this time we had reached a low, long, adobé building, situated at the upper side of the square, and which my companion told me was the Custom-House. To the right of the Plaza stood the Saint Charles's Hotel, a wooden edifice covered in with canvass, and the Peytona House, an establishment of a similar description, in both of which we did not fail to find the usual games carried on.
The streets leading down to the water-side contain comparatively few hotels or eating-houses, they being chiefly wood and canvass trading-stores. I observed amongst them several newly opened auction and commission-rooms, where goods were being put up, recommended and knocked down in true Yankee style. An immense number of wooden frame-houses in course of erection met our view in every direction; and upon remarking that many of them appeared to have been purposely left incomplete, I ascertained that this arose from the extreme difficulty of procuring lumber, which, on account of its scarcity, occasionally fetched an incredibly high price. A good deal of it is brought from Oregon, and some from South America. Many of the larger houses, but far inferior, notwithstanding, to such of the same kind as could easily be procured in New York at a rental of from 300 to 400 dollars a-year, cost here at least 10,000 dollars to build them, the lots on which they were erected being valued at sums varying from 30,000 to 50,000 dollars,
In one of the streets adjacent to the square, I noticed an eating-house called the New York Lunch. It was fitted up in the Yankee style, with numerous small partitions, or boxes, for the exclusive accommodation of parties who chose to eat their meals unobserved, or to enjoy comparative privacy. Here I had some tea and chops, for which I was charged one dollar and a half.
Taking a note of these items as I wandered about the neighbourhood of the square, and adopting them as the basis of a calculation which it was necessary for me to make, in order to estimate the probable amount of my weekly expenditure, I came to the conclusion that, at three meals a day, my board would cost me from thirty to thirty-five dollars a week, exclusive of lodgings and other requisites. I thought of the man on the hill, who had offered me thirty-six dollars a week to
I passed my first night in San Francisco stretched upon a form, in a tavern, where the boisterous mirth of a rude crowd of revellers effectually prevented me from dreaming of anything else but drums and cymbals clattering in most execrable confusion and discord. Once I thought I was drowning; for I experienced the peculiar roaring sensation of deafness incidental to immersing one's head in the water; but, on awakening, I found that one of the company, being waggishly inclined, had poured some of the liquor he was drinking into my ear. I thought it a very poor joke, but laughed at it as though I very much relished it; and, altering my position, dozed off again, and remained in a dog's sleep until the morning.
A start in search of fortune—Antoine of Monterey—My first venture—The California liner—Difficulties of captains in getting crews—Cheap lodgings at the Buckland—I set up in business—My success—I take a partner—The Yankee miner—More news about the “diggins”—My second partner—His squaw and squaller—Novel cottage—The season in San Francisco—Scarcity of good water—Value of a horse and cart—Wages and profits.
I was stirring betimes in the morning, and, after refreshing myself by plunging my fevered head into a bucket of cold water, proceeded to look about me for employment, being fully alive to the necessity of activity. Fortune signally favoured me, by throwing me in the way of Antoine, a negro from Monterey, whom I had formerly known, and whom I met as I directed my steps towards the beach. It was an agreeable surprise; for he was a shrewd, industrious fellow, and appreciated, as keenly
“Well,” he said, “glad to see you, massar. What you tink? Him sell your saddle for sixty-five dallar. Dat good, eh?”
“I don't know, Antoine. I ought to know what you gave for the horse you swapped for it.”
“Well, Goramighty's truth, him cost me forty dallar. Bery good spec. dat, eh?”
“Rather, for you, Antoine; though, as I wanted the beast, we both did well. What are you doing here?”
“Oh, not partickler, nohow, what him do. Sometime go arrands, sometime spec'late: anything for make money. An' you?”
“I am on the look out, Antoine. I've been to the mines, and done very little good, and am come here to try my luck as a painter.”
“Well, now! Dat's de bery ting. Capital spec., dat saddle; so him jist tell you someting good.”
“What is it, Antoine?”
“You see dat boat, yon'er? Dere, on de beach, a stickin' in de mud?”
“Yes. What of it?”
“Dat am b'long to California steamer. Dat am de Cap'ain's boat, and dere am de Cap'ain, 'longside. Him jist want a painter; so you dam lucky.”
“Just the very thing, Antoine; for I can see it will not answer to stay in this place, kicking one's heels. I'll be off at once.”
“Well, I see you 'gain some time”
“Yes, yes. Thank you heartily, Antoine. Good by, for the present.”
I shook hands with the good-natured fellow, and had got a few paces from him, when, turning about, I saw him grinning and rubbing his hands, as if in high glee.
“Ah, ah!” he shouted after me; “dam good spec., dat saddle; but tink you got it back now, eh?”
I could not help laughing at the observation, which implied a very great deal, and, waving my hand to him, hurried down to the beach, where I at once accosted the Captain
“Oh, yes,” said he; “right enough. We've got one aboard; but the fellow's a butcher by trade, and handles the brushes like a monkey. Jump in; we'll soon pull you alongside.”
On our way, we struck a bargain, I undertaking to paint the interior of the vessel in my best style, and he agreeing to remunerate me at the rate of two hundred and sixty dollars a month, clear of all expenses. I subsesequently had reason to believe that this was not the most favourable arrangement for myself that I might have made; for the sailors, who were the only men around me with whose circumstances I could compare my own, were receiving from one hundred and twenty to a hundred and fifty dollars a month. I was, however, but too glad to procure immediate employment, and had no reason to complain during the three weeks I remained on board.
The Captain's position was not by any means an enviable one; for he experienced not only the greatest difficulty in procuring able-bodied
For a long time, the success of the line seemed more than doubtful, until the influx of a larger population, by reducing the price of labour and provisions, and by diminishing the expenditure, and increasing the traffic, settled the point to the satisfaction of the parties who had set the enterprise on foot. But the arduous nature of his duties, and the anxiety they entailed, finally affected the Captain's health; so that he was obliged to renounce the service, and return home. The Company, however, appreciating his efforts, presented him, on his last arrival in New York, with a handsome testimonial, in acknowledgment of the energy and judgment displayed by him in overcoming the extraordinary difficulties he had had to encounter.
Numberless vessels lay at anchor in the harbour, in much the same predicament as the California, being obliged to wait for their crews until the mining season had terminated,
The masters of the vessels resorted to all sorts of expedients to preserve their necessary complement of men, but in vain. One, the captain of a merchantman, whose crew had refused to work, and openly avowed their determination of going to the mines, sent to the Commodore, and they were all carried away, in double irons, on board the Ohio flag-ship. But such severities as these, notwithstanding they answered their end for the moment, produced no permanently beneficial results; and, as a rule, the men were more masters than the masters themselves, who, making a virtue of necessity, became resigned to their fate, consoling themselves for their disappointments by indulging in the dissipation of the town.
Having completed my work on board the California, to the satisfaction of my employer, I took advantage of an opportunity to return to San Francisco, afforded by six of the crew taking a holiday ashore. We encountered a heavy current and a strong wind, which, in spite of our strenuous efforts to make the “Point,” drove us some three miles to the north-west of it; and I found that landing in boats was not generally an easy matter, the beach being shingly, and in some parts very rocky. We effected our object at last, getting thoroughly wetted in our attempts to get on shore; my blankets, &c.—which, by the way, I had to carry for a distance of four miles—having already been soaked by the washing of the sea into the boat. The journey proved a most uncomfortable and fatiguing one, owing to the depth and looseness of the sand, and the irregularity of the route.
The first person of my acquaintance that I met, chanced to be Antoine. I encountered him in the middle of the town; and, notwithstanding he was a man of colour, I saluted
He rated me soundly for not having struck a more lucrative bargain, and really made me feel extremely simple. However, I told him that it was only paying for experience; though he seemed to imply, by the shake of the head with which he intimated it was no business of his, that I ought not to have been so long in California without gaining that very necessary stock in trade.
“An' what him goin' to do now—eh, massar?”
“I shall do what I told you it was my
“Am sixteen dollar a week cheap now—eh?”
“What, for board and lodging?”
“Iss; bote on 'em: an' good at de money.”
“Well, I think that would suit.”
“Den you get it at Bucklan' House: an' dere a shanty in him back-yard, where plenty room for paint all day.”
I thanked Antoine for this interesting piece of information; and, having ascertained from him the direction of Buckland House, repaired thither at once.
It was a good-sized tavern; the conveniences and accommodations for lodgers consisting ofserapas, or the blankets of the lodgers. There were likewise several trunks, on which were seated sundry well-dressed and some very rough-looking individuals, who were engaged in various occupations; one of them—evidently a new arrival in the country—writing a letter on a portfolio opened across his knees; others, stitching leathern purses, or repairing their saddles and clothes; and some lounging listlessly about in various positions, all more or less uncomfortable. I observed that there was a total absence of chairs, and no fireplace; whilst the only article that did duty for a table, was a kind of hybrid between a bench and a stool, covered now with shavings and carpenters' tools. Several boards were missing from one side of the room; so that I could
Our creature-necessaries were on the same scale of discomfort, and of quality provokingly consistent. Beef of passable age and tenderness; sour, home-made bread, and beans; tea of doubtful origin, without milk; and butter of a flavour so powerful as to render economy in its use prudent as a sanitary measure. Remonstrances proved unavailing. The invariable reply was, that no better could be procured in the town; and it was the same with every other article. Besides, the charge was only sixteen
The proprietor of the Buckland was a Mormon, who had originally left his native home to settle in Oregon, but hearing of the discovery of the gold mines, had come to California, visited the “placers,” and dug gold, and traded with such success, as to be enabled to purchase several extensive lots of ground, on one of which he had built the establishment in which he resided. He had purchased these lots—as I was informed—for about 2,500 dollars; and they were now worth 50,000; so rapidly had the town increased. He was reported to be a wealthy man; and I must do him the justice to say that he neglected no opportunity of increasing his gains, his family and himself being admirable specimens of the acquisitive class to which they belonged.
I had procured my chests from on board the brig in which I had come from Monterey; and one of these, set up in my corner, served me in lieu of easel; another, with my bundle of blankets, for a table and a seat; and the
I now hung out my sign in front of the house, and soon succeeded in attracting customers; and although I laboured under many disadvantages, I averaged an ounce a day—far better, I thought, than digging even two ounces in the mines, exposed to privations
For a considerable time I was unsuccessful, owing to the difficulty of finding a person at once tolerably competent, and who could be confided in. At length, I met with a man who had followed the trade in the States, and with whom, after making some inquiry concerning him, I entered into a temporary arrangement. Happy for me was it that our articles were of this kind; for, after some time, although our business flourished beyond my expectations, I discovered him to be a gamester, and habitually addicted to inebriety. He was one of those convivial, specious, smooth-tongued individuals, who easily procure friends by their insinuating manners, and lose them as fast by their unsteadiness, or want of principle. These failings compelled me, for my own credit sake, to dissolve the association as
Amongst the casual residents at the Buckland was a man of very rough appearance, who had come down from the mines, intending to take the steamer, and return to the United States in a few days. He slept near my corner, and used to watch me at my work, but without offering any remark. The evening before the vessel was to start, he occupied himself arranging the contents of his trunk, on which he slept. I had finished work for the day, and was seated on my blankets, enjoying the fumes of a cigar, when, observing him take out two leathern bags, such as the miners usually carry their gold in, and inferring from this circumstance that he had been unusually fortunate—since he was returning home—I ventured to open a conversation with him.
“I suppose you made a good find of it,” said I, laughing, as I addressed him, and pointing to the leathern bags.
“Well, pretty good, I calc'late,” he answered; and, as he spoke, he turned out the
“How much have you got?” asked I.
“Well, now, guess. Can't you guess?”
“I'm no judge. My experience that way has been too limited.”
“Well, I reckon there's four thousand dollars here, good weight; and that's a fact.”
“Is that all you brought away?”
“All! I suppose it is; and no such easy work to get that, I tell you.”
“Why didn't you stay and make fifty thousand, since you were so successful?”
“Why didn't I? Yes! why didn't I? Why, because it was such tarnation hard work. I'most busted myself, as it was. If you knowed how hard I worked to get them 'are four thousand dollars, I'm darn'd if you'd ax why I didn't stay longer.”
“Most of the miners that leave the ‘diggins' do so because they can't find enough to satisfy
“Well, now! let them stop that likes it. I'm sick and tired of mining—etarnally sick on it. It's on'y fit for niggers to do, that sort of work; and darn'd if they'd stand it long. I had two notions, I reckon, when I came down here; one was to buy a small craft to trade up and down the rivers, and the other was to go back to the States, buy a small farm, and settle down. 'Atween them 'ara two notions I was in a reg'lar fix; but I've made up my mind now.”
“And you are going to leave California, a country where, if you chose to stay and dig, you might make a fortune in a couple of years.”
“Well, I don't mean nothing else, and that's a fact.”
Having cleaned his gold by the process I have mentioned, he put it back into the bags, and, having completed his arrangements, laid
After continuing alone for a considerable period, I found that the necessity was daily becoming more imperative for me to procure assistance, as I lost so much valuable time in consequence of being obliged to attend to the out-of-door business, collecting orders, bill, &c. The best painters, however, were at the mines; and those who remained, refused to lend their assistance under twenty-five dollars a day, which was quite as much as I could earn myself by the closest application. From one of them I heard that my late partner had purchased a brig for six thousand dollars, with which he intended to commence trading between San Francisco and Sacramento; and I subsequently ascertained from himself that this was correct.
One morning, I chanced to meet with an acquaintance whom I had known at Monterey, where he was engaged in the capacity of a commissary's clerk, but who had acquired
My companion and I now proceeded to set up our establishment; and having procured the framework of a tent, and the services of a sailmaker to cut and sew our canvas, for the sum of forty dollars, we obtained the use of a lot in the lower part of the town, near the
This was the first painter's establishment of its kind that had as yet been set up in California—at least in San Francisco—and, for the month we remained in it, we had every
It was fortunate for us that we shifted our quarters; for, although in the summer season the whole of the ground in the neighbourhood of our establishment was eagerly bought up, or let at enormous prices, the locality in winter became uninhabitable, on account of the heavy floods which poured into it from the upper lands, converting it into a mere morass, and spoiling the goods of the unlucky traders who happened to be resident there.
We removed to a plot of ground directly opposite the “Shades” hotel, which we obtained at a monthly rental of fifty dollars: asummer season, and that of the bleakest kind; and in the winter, though it is mild, so great an abundance of rain falls, as to render pedestrian exercise, for the commonest purposes, a regular toil, so inundated are the lower portions of the town, which may be said then to stand in a huge basin of mud.
We dared not expose the side of our tent to the wind, as it would have presented too large a surface; wherefore, being perfectly aware of the inconvenience we should have to encounter in such a case, and of the danger there would be of the entire structure being blown prostrate, the uprights were firmly sunk into the ground, so as to oppose the smallest possible angle to the action of the rude gusts that swept the hill. We likewise strengthened
In the mean while, my companion and his wife had contrived to obtain a residence which, under the circumstances, was snug and comfortable enough. One of his acquaintances, a clerk in one of the principal stores, possessed an old ship's cooking-galley, about ten feet square, which he had purchased for a mere trifle, as it was beginning to rot away.
The clerk had a lot of ground upon a hill at the back of the town, and which was at that time lying useless. The idea seemed to please him; and the galley having been removed to the desired spot, and at an expense of five hundred dollars transformed into a dwelling capable of accommodating two persons, it was hired by my partner, at a monthly rental of fifty dollars. He was scarcely in it, when another party bid sixty for it.
This cottage contained only one room; but, to compensate for this, it had two doors and a window. The interior was covered with canvass, closely tacked to the sides, so as to exclude the piercing wind, to which, as the building stood on an eminence, it was particularly exposed. The owner valued it, and the lot on which it was built, at six thousand dollars, which he might readily have obtained for them at any time.
It had, however, in common with all the houses of San Francisco, one great disadvantage; though, in this instance, the inconvenience was more felt, on account of the elevated site of the dwelling. There was no water near at hand; and many a time have I seen him toiling up the hill, and panting with the effort of carrying up to his little hut a large bucket or a pitcher of this necessary, which he had been obliged to fetch from a considerable distance.
The water, generally, is not good; and, in the opinion of medical men, it generates much sickness. Wells have been sunk in different parts of the town, often with great labour; but in almost every instance the result has been unfortunate, the water in them being found too dirty to be adapted for culinary purposes, or wholesome to drink. The wells in the valley near which my partner lived contained perhaps the worst; yet none better was to be obtained within a distance of a mile and a half. Ultimately, the inhabitants will be compelled to have water carted up to their
Our business mean while prospered satisfactorily; so that we were enabled to employ several men, whose services we fortunately secured in consequence of the large influx of newcomers; a circumstance that reduced the rate of wages. Nevertheless, we paid at the rate of eight, twelve, and fifteen dollars a day, and thought ourselves extremely lucky to get off so cheaply.
We had not been long established in our new tent, when I received a visit from Antoine, who had kept up a constant communication with me, and rendered me good service, occasionally, by timely recommendations.
“Well, Antoine; what brings you here now? Where are your horse and cart?”
I ought to have stated that this was a speculation of Antoine's. After being employed in various ways, chiefly running of errands and carrying parcels, it occurred to him, that by purchasing a horse and a cart,
“What! Are you going to Monterey?” I inquired.
“Iss, massar; I goin' back dere, cos no more good for me stop here, now.”
“Why, what's amiss, Antoine?”
“Oh, dere ain't noting 'miss; 'xcept as I am sold de horse an' cart. Dam good spec., too, massar.”
On further inquiry, I ascertained that, in
“Him ain't done so bad, massar,” he said, in reply to a remark of mine. “'Bout five, six tousan dollars. Dat bery good spec.—eh, massar?”
I thought it was; but no more than he deserved for his industry and perseverance; and I told him so. He seemed gratified by the compliment; and we shook hands and parted.
Politics in San Francisco—Democracy versus Aristocracy—The right of the majority illustrated—Pistol law versus Mexican law—State of society—The Hounds—Their exploits—The Hollow—Expulsion of the Hounds, and capture of their leader—The Chinese settlers—The French—A dusty dinner—The Happy Valley—Frightful condition of the Brooklyn emigrants—Deaths from scurvy.
During my stay in San Francisco, there occurred a great deal of political excitement, in consequence of a large proportion of the citizens being opposed to the existence of Mexican law, and in favour of removing the Alcalde, Doctor Leavenworth, who had obtained office under the old system. They were strongly inclined to set up a new form of city government, better calculated to meet the requirements, and more adapted to the prejudices and habits of a large Yankee town, such as this had now become, and with which
The democratic party insisted that they were quite able to govern themselves, and, as a majority, competent to set about it, and to select the form of government they liked best. They were resolved not to wait; and, as the opposition seemed equally resolute not to succumb, there was every appearance of a serious conflict. But matters were brought to a crisis without bloodshed.
The democratic party, headed by the Sheriff (one Johnny Pulis, who contrived somehow to keep office under both Governments), and
The demand was then repeated, backed by a representation to the effect that, according to the fundamental principles of the American system of government, the will of the majority was absolute: and an intimation was, moreover, thrown out, that unless the Alcalde complied with it, the party were determined to search for and take them away by force.
The Alcalde reflected for a moment; and, whilst he appeared to be making up his mind, suddenly stretched out his hand, and took down from a shelf behind him a large horse-pistol, which he deliberately cocked. As he did this, he said—
“Well, gentlemen, you can proceed; but you must be answerable for the consequences.”
“Oh! if that's what you mean,” exclaimed Pulis, cooly withdrawing a similar weapon from his coat-pocket, and examining the priming, “I've got one of them 'are things, too; so it's who'll have the first shot. Go in, boys,” he continued, addressing his followers, as he levelled the pistol at the Alcalde's head; “if he budges, he shan't squeak more than once.”
The Alcalde, who, doubtless, never had really meant resistance, but who probably thought that a show of it was necessary at his hands, to save his honour, now attempted to parley, with a view to gain time; and assured the deputation that the town records were mixed up with other papers strictly
The democratic party being now in the ascendant, proceeded to organize the new Government, appointing their officials, and otherwise seeking to establish their authority. On
The supporters of the two parties were now at open war; and numerous were the quarrels and frays that ensued. But the Alcalde was not yet beaten, and sent a message to General Reilly, at Monterey, who had recently been appointed Governor, informing him that a rebellion had broken out in San Francisco, and demanding his interference and protection. The result of this application
This was an immense triumph for the democrats; and they did not fail to celebrate it after the most boisterous fashion. Nevertheless, the new Government did not work well at first; for the individuals appointed to office were not men who, by their talents or their reputation, were qualified either to rule or to command respect from their fellow-citizens—hence, scarcely an act of theirs met with public approbation. They were utterly
Amongst the most prominent and notorious disturbers of the public peace figured an association similar to that of the Mohawks, so elegantly described by Addison, and known by the cognomen of the “Hounds,” in connexion with which I have mentioned the name of one Jemmy Twitcher. I do not know that this person could be considered worse than his companions, amongst whom only his grotesque style of dressing caused him, perhaps, to figure more remarkably. They were a desperate set of brawlers, gamblers, and drunkards—anything but scrupulous in
It was kept by a very civil, obliging individual named Patterson, formerly a volunteer, but who had quitted the service a considerable time before I entered it, and who, repairing to the mines, had been fortunate enough to dig a large amount of gold. With this he speculated in land, and succeeded beyond his expectations; one of his lucky projects being the establishment of the tavern in which he resided; and which, in spite of its bad name, was one of the most money-making in the town. Before I left, its reputation had improved; and it is now as well regulated as any other.
With such facilities for dissipation as San Francisco afforded at this time, it was not to be wondered at that such a fraternity of ruffians should exist there, and be enabled toserapas thrown over their shoulders, their hats ornamented with feathers and artificial flowers, perambulating the streets in the company of the most abandoned Spanish women or Indian squaws, and shouting the most ribald songs and jests, interspersed with oaths and imprecations of the most horrid kind, or relieved by passing remarks of unparalleled indecency. Frequently, on such occasions, the party would be preceded by a motley band of music, consisting of a violin or two, perhaps a horn, but always a banjo, and several pairs of rib-bones But, whether by night or by day the “Hounds” or their associates came out, their appearance was a signal for every respectable person to retire into his house, in order to avoid being compromised in a quarrel, or becoming a butt for their obscene ridicule.
There was a place called the “Hollow,” a valley situated to the north-east of the town, where there were a few ONE OF THE OLD SPANISH HOUSES IN SAN FRANCISCO—SCENE NEAR “THE HOLLOW.”adobè houses, occupied
In illustration of their lawless practices, and of the manner in which they harassed the poor Chilians, three of them one day entered the store of a native of that country, and demanded goods on credit to the amount of seventy-five dollars, saying they resided at the “Shades,” and were well known. So they were; but not in the sense they wished to
Many other acts of a similar nature were perpetrated by them with the same impunity; the dupes not unfrequently getting severely maltreated when they ventured to remonstrate or resist; but at length the new town-council resolved to put an end to such depredations; and only awaited a favourable occasion for suppressing the association altogether. The opportunity presented itself sooner than had been anticipated; for the “Hounds,” ascertaining the determination of the authorities, though they did not discontinue their excesses, yet for
Not very long after the outrage alluded to above, a party of the association was seen parading the streets, with drums beating and colours flying. That same night the store of a Chilian was broken into by them, and the unfortunate proprietor nearly murdered; he being so severely beaten, as to have been left for dead. His neighbour and fellow-country-man, apprehending a similar fate, fled to an adjacent house, and, creeping underneath the floor of it, lay there trembling until the noise had subsided, and the deed of blood was perpetrated.
The next day, however, due information of this act of ruffianism having reached the authorities, several hundred of the citizens, amongst whom were several Chilians and Spaniards, armed with guns, pistols, and other weapons, proceeded through the town, towards the “Shades,” crying out the names of several well-known members of the gang. On reaching
It must not be supposed, however, that acts of rioting and crime were confined to the “Hounds;” for the place abounded in characters of a similar description; besides, the citizens would themselves not unfrequently take the law into their own hands, and thus, by violating its integrity, set an example to the more unscrupulous, who would, on some frivolous pretext, occasion disturbances which afforded them favourable opportunities for plunder.
On one occasion, I saw a crowd of persons ransacking a tent and store, situated near the “City Hotel,” and kept by a Spaniard, who, as it appeared, had, on the preceding evening, murdered a volunteer named Beattie, and then taken refuge in the woods, in the interior of the country In less than half an hour the entire contents of the store had disappeared, their value being probably not less than a thousand dollars. There were only two volunteers present, the remainder of the crowd being composed of half-drunken sailors and the ruffians of the town, who considered this
It appeared that the unfortunate volunteer had gone into the store in company with another man, on the previous evening; and they were drinking together, when a dispute arose, which resulted in the Spaniard's ordering the two Americans to leave the house. Their blood was up, and they refused to comply; when the Spaniard snatched up a gun, and shot Beattie in the back. But neither the affair of the murder, nor that of robbing the tent, ever became a subject of inquiry; affording another flagrant instance of the negligent manner in which the laws were administered, and of the contempt in which they were held.
Amongst the various emigrants who daily flocked into the city—for each day brought its fresh arrivals—were numerous Chinese, and a very considerable number of Frenchmen, from the Sandwich Islands and from South America. The former had been consigned, with houses and merchandise, to certain Americans in San Francisco, to whom they were
These Chinese had all the air of men likely to prove good citizens, being quiet, inoffensive, and particularly industrious. I once went into an eating-house, kept by one of these people, and was astonished at the neat arrangement and cleanliness of the place, the excellence of the table, and moderate charges. It was styled the “Canton Restaurant;” and so thoroughly Chinese was it in its appointments, and in the manner of service, that one might have easily fancied one's-self in the heart of
As for the French, they seemed entirely out of their element in this Yankee town; and this circumstance is not to be wondered at, when the climate and the habits of the people are taken into consideration, and also the strange deficiencies they must have observed in the
Speaking of them reminds me of a “ Café Restaurant,” in San Francisco, kept by a very civil Frenchman, and situated on the way to the Point. I mention it, because I one day made here the most uncomfortable repast it had ever been my lot to sit down to. Yet this was not owing to any lack of attention on the part of the proprietor, to any inferiority in the quality of his provisions, or to any deficiency of culinary skill in their preparation; but simply to the prevalence of the pest to which I have already alluded as invading my own tent, namely, the dust. The house was built chiefly of wood, and had a canvass roof, but this was insufficient to keep out the impalpable particles with which the air was
Notwithstanding all I had seen of San Francisco, there yet existed here a world apart, that I should never have dreamed of, but for my being one day called upon to act upon a jury appointed to sit in inquest over a person who had died there. This place was called the “Happy Valley.”
Previously to our repairing thither, we
The ground was, of course, low, damp, and muddy; and the most unmistakeable evidences of discomfort, misery, and sickness, met our view on every side, for the locality was one of the unwholesomest in the vicinity of the town. Yet here, to avoid the payment of enormous ground-rents, and at the same time to combine the advantage of cheap living, were encamped the major portion of the most recently arrived emigrants, and, amongst the rest, those of the ship Brooklyn, on one of the passengers of which the inquest was about to be held.
We experienced considerable difficulty in finding the tent; but at last discovered
But it appeared that they had set sail from New York with an insufficient supply of provisions, of which fact the passengers did not become aware until they had been some time at sea. Nearly the whole of them were, in consequence, attacked with scurvy; but the captain refused to put in at Rio, Valparaiso, and Callao, where the necessary remedies and a fresh stock of provisions might have been procured. Finding him inexorable to the appeal made to his humanity, they made up a purse of 500 dollars, with which they hoped to tempt his cupidity; still he refused. The result was, that five of the passengers perished of this fearful malady, and were thrown overboard; the rest, including the young man in question, were landed at San Francisco in a state verging on dissolution. The deceased had already lost part of his tongue, and turned black before he was set ashore to die; and it seems he had experienced the worst possible treatment at the hands of the captain, who accused him of feigning sickness; and indeed, had acted with extreme inhumanity to
By the corpse stood a well-dressed, gentlemanly individual, who, upon ascertaining our business, desired us to seat ourselves on the boxes, which served in lieu of chairs; and going away, returned presently with several other persons, who fully confirmed his statements, and gave us additional and harrowing details of their sufferings. This young man had himself been a sufferer. He was by profession a dentist; and, in proof of his assertions as to the extent to which they had all been afflicted by the scourage, showed us his gums, which were in a sad state of irritation, and horribly disfigured. At his request, as of that of the men whom he had fetched in, we went to see several of the other passengers, who were lying in adjacent tents. We visited some eight or
We signed a paper, recording, as our verdict, that the deceased had died of scurvy, and that his death had been accelerated by neglect on the part of the captain, who, a few days after, was brought to trial. As, however, it turned out that the passengers had engaged to supply hemselves with provisions, and had neglected to provide them in sufficient quantities, he escaped punishment.
This, then, was the “Happy Valley;” a term no doubt applied to it in derision, taking into consideration the squalor, the discomfort, the filth, the misery, and the distress that were rife there.
Unhealthiness of San Francisco—Prevalent maladies—Climate of California generally considered—Precautions to be observed by emigrants—Lack of women—Desirableness of female immigration—Mrs. Farnham's scheme frustrated—Advice to young ladies about to emigrate—Dear tooth-drawing—Dolores—The first street-organ in California—Success of enterprise—Competition even in itinerant music—Theatricals in California—Proclamation against foreigners digging in the mines—Consequences—French spirit versus American intolerance—The Indians—A murder, and sanguinary retaliation—Population of California.
The town of San Francisco did not appear to me—from the experience I had of it, and from the information I derived at the hands of others who had longer inhabited it—to be particularly healthy. Rheumatism, fever, ague, and diarrhœa, were the prevalent maladies during the entire summer season, numerous deaths occurring from them every week. One man
We heard a great deal about the ravages the Asiatic cholera was making in the United States; but the general opinion in California was, that this country would escape it, as the high winds prevalent along the coast would blow it past us. I do not know whether science would bear out the theory; but, however that may be, the cholera did not visit us.
As to the climate of California, so many conflicting statements concerning it have been hazarded, that persons who have not visited the country may easily be led into error on this point, and can scarcely hope to form a correct opinion. Independently considered, it may justly be pronounced as the healthiest in the world; for it presents every variety of atmosphere within a great extent of latitude. If the emigrant's object be simply to find a congenial temperature, he can easily gratify his taste; but should circumstances compel him to reside in a locality the air of which is not suited to his particular constitution, the evil effect of living in it can only be effectually remedied by a due attention to diet and dress. Too many persons neglect, or scorn to observe the requisite precautions on this head, exposing themselves to the sudden extremes of heat and cold peculiar to the climate, and, in their reckless pursuit after gold—heedless of every other consideration—contract diseases during their labours, which, if they do not always prove fatal, so undermine the
I have no hesitation in asserting that the neglecting of proper precautions on the part of the miners, has, by causing a large mortality amongst them, tended to propagate the belief that the climate is in itself unhealthy. When, however, California shall have become thoroughly settled, and an abundance of good houses, of adobè or wood, shall have sprung up in its towns; when the people shall have returned to the legitimate pursuits incidental to a healthy state of society; when agriculture shall be practised more extensively, and the search after gold no longer be the absorbing passion of the emigrants, there will be fewer railers against the climate. Even in San Francisco, where, during one entire season of the year, the weather is more intolerable and severe than in any other town along the whole coast, the carrying out of a regular system of building, drainage, and
It is also to be hoped that the tone of society will soon be altered for the better, by an influx of the gentler sex, whose influence alone can soften down the ruggedness of manner invariably observable where their presence cheers not, and their smiles are wanting; whose affections alone possess the power of weaning men from the pursuit of unlawful pleasures, and indulgence in enervating vices. Hundreds, nay, thousands, who now know of no home save the groggery and the gambling-table, would be glad to abandon them for the sweeter enjoyments of a domestic hearth, cheered and enlivened by the society of a partner, and the lively prattle of innocent children. Under the gentle influence which woman knows so well how to exercise, the brawler would become a quiet citizen; the spendthrift, careful; the indolent, industrious; the drunkard, sober; the gambler, a gamester
I am satisfied that much of the crime and lawlessness that is prevalent in California—particularly in towns like San Francisco, where the ruder sex are congregated exclusively and in large multitudes—is attributable to the want of the humanizing presence of women. In San Francisco there were about ten thousand males, and scarcely a hundred females; for, although in many parts of California the latter outnumber the former, the national prejudice against colour was too strong for legitimate amalgamation to take place. The attention of the people in the United States had been already directed to the question of encouraging female emigration to this country, as a means—although certainly an inadequate one—of relieving the industrial pressure on all classes in the manufacturing towns. Thousands of young females, who were earning a bare subsistence by their
But the news, nevertheless, reached San Francisco that the lady was actually on her way, with a large cargo of houris; and expectation stood on tiptoe, awaiting their arrival. The excitement was immense, and the disappointment proportionate, when the real facts became known. I verily believe there was more drunkenness, more gambling, more fighting, and more of everything that was bad, that night, than had ever before occurred in San Francisco within any similar space of time.
If the interesting cargo had arrived, no doubt exists but that the whole of the young women would have done well in the various occupations to which they were adapted, and which fall so especially within their province. Their services were required in so many ways, that they could have procured their own
To return, however, to my own affairs. I found that, though I was earning money rapidly, it was at the expense of my health, and that I must soon determine to lie by and recruit my strength, or else return home. But the influx of strangers, whilst it increased my business, forbade me to relax in my efforts, lest I should be shut out from the field by more active—or at least healthier—competitors. I thought of going to Pueblo, which was milder, in respect of its climate, or to Monterey, which, during the summer months, was pleasant enough; but in neither of these places would my services have been in demand. There was Sacramento city, again; but numbers of persons were daily quitting it, sufferers from fever, ague, and mosquitoes. Under
Finding that the sufferings I endured were incapacitating me for exertion, I endeavoured to obtain a few days' respite from my occupations, in the hope that a little change might do me good. Hiring a horse for the day, at the moderate sum of twelve dollars, I rode into the country. But the neighbourhood of San Francisco is by no means of an attractive character, and I derived but little pleasure from these excursions. Pushing on, one day, to the Mission of Dolores, of which I had heard such glowing accounts, I was disappointed to find it an insignificant Californian village, without any sort of accommodation for travellers. The only house that pretended to the character of an inn, La Cabesa del
Toro, or Bull's Head, could provide me with neither dinner nor bed.
Dolores is famous for bull-fighting, horse-racing, and gambling; and, being much frequented by the citizens, I was surprised that some enterprising Yankee had not established a good hotel there. Being the only place to which the inhabitants of San Francisco can resort, without travelling a great distance, I am confident that Dolores will ere long become a thriving little town.
Whilst stopping here, I saw a smart-looking Yankee and a Spanish girl married by the priest, whose words were interpreted to the bridegroom as the ceremony proceeded: the lady was of rather a dark complexion, but extremely pretty; and, although she knew scarcely a word of English, and the bridegroom knew still less of Spanish, it was evident, from the eloquence of the glances that passed between them, that they were at no loss to make themselves understood.
I returned to San Francisco with a large party, amongst whom was my last partner A SERENADE—UPPER CALIFORNIA.
Apropos of music, I shall never forget the odd sensations that I experienced on hearing the first barrel-organ ever played in the streets of San Francisco. I happened to be seated, at the time, in the bar-room of one of the hotels, in conversation with a friend, when the sounds of an instrument associated with so many familiar recollections fell like the strains of some long-forgotten but cherished voice upon my ears.
I rushed out to behold the adventurous Savoyard who had traversed half the globe to
I sighed as I reflected that the fortunate Savoyard who had been the first to venture to the shores of the new El-Dorado, and upon whom its treasures were now lavishly showered, in pieces of silver, by the bystanders, was probably but the precursor of a shoal of those light-hearted, but ill-treated little beings, who are destined to toil and wear out a miserable existence, for the enrichment of their harsh and unfeeling taskmasters.
This Columbus of street-musicians became a person of considerable importance in San Francisco, and was handsomely rewarded for his performances, wherever he went. Never, probably, had one of his class attained such high consideration. The melodious strains of his instrument never failed to arouse the enthusiasm of the home-sick; whilst the tricks of the monkey served to amuse the leisure of the rough miners, who were incapable of entering into the feelings inspired by his music. He was admitted into all the hotels; and many a rough jig or reel was improvisated to music never arranged to such a profane measure—the arias of Bellini and Donizitte being quick-timed, to suit the exigencies of a planxty or Sir Roger de Coverley. Luckily for him, there were no coppers in the town; and the showers of silver pieces that rewarded his efforts must have astonished as well as enriched him.
But, alas, the subsequent career of the Savoyard was not destined to prove an exception to the usual course of mundane
Shortly afterwards, several Spanish singers and a few dancers gave a performance in the town, which proved a complete failure. The artistes were persons of talent, and complained bitterly of the want of taste displayed by the Americans. But the cause of theirhabitués. The result of the erection of the theatre here has fully borne out this conclusion; and if the
Whilst on this subject, I may as well mention, that the first theatrical performances that ever took place in California were given in Pueblo de Los Angelos, by some of the volunteers, with such scenery, costumes, and music, as the country and their own ingenuity could supply them. The next came off at Sonoma, where several of the same company of Thespians made their appearance. These were, of course, mere amateur attempts; but still they are interesting, as serving to note the progress of this amusement. The performances were, in general, well attended. At the close of the season, in August, 1848, the “Golden Farmer,” “The Omnibus,” and a Russian comedy called “Feodora,” translated from the German of Kotzebue by a resident of Sonoma, were the last pieces played. Amongst the company performing at present in San Francisco, there are few, if
During my residence in San Francisco, General Smith, in coming up the coast to supersede Colonel Mason as Governor of California, issued a proclamation, to the effect that no foreigners would be allowed to work in the mines. This, however, had but little effect; and hundreds flocked daily into San Francisco from Chili, Peru, and the Sandwich Islands. The influx of strangers created great discontent, both in the “diggins” and the larger towns, as the enormous increase of the population interfered everywhere with the interests of the Americans. On the North and South American Forks, the Oregon men, and some of the Yankees, who had arrived by water, came to the determination to drive them from that mine. A meeting was held at Sutter's Mill, to decide upon the most summary means to be adopted for the
The Indians occasionally gave great annoyance to the miners, both Americans and Spaniards. I have been assured, I know not with what truth, that their hatred of the latter is far greater, owing to the persecution they had suffered at their hands. But they inflicted some dreadful outrages upon the former, on various occasions. On the Middle
These two men went to the mill to report the circumstance; and a party of forty men, headed by Captain M'Kay, himself an Indian by birth, took their rifles and went in pursuit of the murderers to a rancherie, about ten miles farther north. the place to which they proceeded contains about twenty rude dwellings, made of brushwood and sticks, each of them large enough to contain three or four men and their squaws. On coming in sight, the Americans found the rancherie crowded with about three hundred Indians. The former immediately discharged their rifles, killing about thirty of them; and the rest scampered
One of the women declaring that these seven men had been engaged in the late murders, the latter were about to be executed, when the ringleader, suddenly making signs to his companions, and uttering a shout, they all burst through the guard surrounding them, and fled. Three of them were shot while endeavouring to cross the river; another was stabbed by an American, while running up a hill on the other side; and the rest, amongst whom was the chief of the party, made their escape.
I have said nothing as yet with respect to the population of California, the continual influx of strangers rendering the subject mere matter of speculation. Judging from my own personal observation, I should say that there were not more than 25,000 inhabitants in both the upper and lower countries, previous to the discovery of the gold mines.
A great sensation has recently been created here by the discovery of veins of gold in the quartz rock in the mines, the proportion of gold being, in many instances, that of 1.50 to every pound of rock. The greater number of the present class of miners will, however, reap no benefit from it. In my opinion, the time is fast approaching when these persons will find it impossible to earn more than sufficent to support life by this miserable drudgery;
Political excitement—Preliminary steps towards the adoption of a constitution—Meeting of the Convention—The slavery question—Arrival of an important political personage—Determination to return to the States—Jemmy Twitcher—Parental interest for a prodigal son—A Michael Angelo in search of fortune—A Frenchman in search of his wife.
Notwithstanding the excitement continually kept up in the public mind by the reports of fresh discoveries in the mines, or of remarkable instances of individual success in the working of them, the attention of the Americans soon became directed towards the discussion and settlement of those political questions, which, wherever they congregate and locate, will always form the chief object and business of life with a people devoted to the propagandism of republican opinions. It would be difficult for the cooler headed and
As to the admission of slavery into the territory, respecting which a considerable degree of apprehension had been manifested, both at home and abroad, no one who had been any length of time in the country felt the least doubt as to the course they would pursue. Owing to the fact of there being many Southern gentlemen of considerable influence in California, it was at first thought that they
It must be owned that, in arriving at this decision, the Americans took as much an interested as a philanthropical view of the question; and I am not prepared to say, that had they held possession of the lower country, greater difficulties might not have presented themselves to its solution. No class of white men can there perform the labour necessary for the thorough cultivation of the land, and the working of the mineral resources in which I feel confident it abounds. In Upper California, the case is altogether different. There, slave labour would be brought into direct competition with that of the Americans themselves; and, as the latter are now more than sufficient in number for every agricultural and mechanical requirement, the consequences
Whilst the fever of political excitement agitated the minds of the inhabitants of San Francisco, the arrival by one of the steamers of a personage of some importance in the North American and European cities, but until now unfamiliar to the inhabitants of San Francisco, caused no slight sensation and amusement amongst us. Let the reader picture to himself the ludicrous effect of one of the newsboys of New York suddenly presenting himself on the Plaza, with a large bundle of the daily and weekly journals of that city, and dinning our ears with cries to which we had long been unaccustomed. The idea was a happy one; and the adventurous little fellow, having disposed of his whole stock of papers at prices averaging from one to two dollars each, retired well pleased with the result of his experiment.
I had been gradually making up my mind to return to the United States; and the period had now arrived for putting my determination
It is unquestionable, that in no other part of the world can money be more easily acquired; but, when we take into account the sufferings endured in its acquisition, and the relatively high prices paid for all the necessaries of life, it is very much to be doubted whether the same amount of industry and self-denial would not obtain equal results in more civilized countries. There were, besides, many circumstances that foreshadowed to me a future replete with difficulties and privations. The winter was fast setting in; and I felt that I could not pursue my avocations continually exposed to the heavy rains which were certain to deluge the town. The
From the prices that I have occasionally mentioned, people may run away with the notion that they are uniformly extravagant as regards all descriptions of merchandise. Such, however, is not the fact. During the latter part of my residence here, I have seen many articles sold at a trifling advance on the New York prices, and some at a complete sacrifice. The fluctuations in the value of commodities are so extraordinary, that I have frequently seen large fortunes made by the same articles in the course of a month; but next summer prices will no doubt become steadier, and must ultimately find their level.
My readers are doubtless curious to know whether, in this land of almost fabulous wealth, there are any persons so unfavoured by fortune
As I sat smoking a cigar in one of the hotels of the town, shortly before my departure, I happened to overhear the following rather amusing conversation amongst a group of
“I say, Jemmy,” said a tall, rakish-looking fellow, with his hat set jauntily on one side of his head, “you must let us hear that letter from your respectable parent; it's capital.”
“I'm hanged if I do!” replied Twitcher, with an air of affected reluctance, belied by a smile that played round the corners of his mouth. “You are always pestering me about that letter; this is the tenth time you've asked me to read it.”
“Well, give it to me, and I'll read it. It does one's heart good to find such simplicity in this wicked world. Oh, Jemmy! the old man little knows what an infernal scoundrel you are.”
Twitcher, little affected by the compliment, produced a dirty and crumpled piece of paper, which the other read aloud, amidst the laughter of the company. It ran, as nearly as I can remember, in the following terms:—
“Dear Jim—I take this opportunity to write you a bit of a note, hoping it will find you well, as I am at present. We're very anxious about you since you left, but have some comfort in the thought that you are doing so well. [ A laugh.] I would go out myself, but am too old; and besides, the voyage is expensive, and I couldn't sell the blind horse—[ another laugh ]—but I'm doing purty well with the cart, thank God. Howsomever, I might be doing better; but that's neither here nor there. We have wonderful news here from the mines. I was talking the other day with a young chap who had been all through them, and he told me a heap of curious things that I didn't believe, at first, was true; but he offered to take his Bible oath, an' I didn't think then I could disbelieve him. He said, says he, ‘When I was in a place called the Divil's Diggins, by reason of its being such a horrid, gloomy lookin' gulche, the winter came on, an' we hadn't anything left to eat but a prairie dog we'd killed two days afore. But one of my companions was loathIf you hav'nt got much, come with what you've got —we're all a dying to see you. Come back. Don't be too covetious. Remember, enough's as good as a feast. Come back with what you've got. Give my love to Bob.
“Your affectionate father,
“ISAAC TWITCHER.”
The conclusion of this characteristic epistle elicited shouts of laughter from the company;
“Let me see, now,” said he, putting his hands into his pockets, “how much I have got. Just twenty-five cents, by G—! A nice sum for a fellow to return home with to a father who's been hearing such a yarn as that about the dish of beans. But no matter. I calculate the old boy will have to wait some time before he catches me at home again. By the by, I may as well have a drink with what I have got; so here goes.” Jemmy put down his last “shiner” upon the counter, and continued. “The old hunks thinks, I'll be bound, that I'm worth fifty thousand dollars; and darn me if it wouldn't be a pity to let him know the truth, he must be so happy at the notion. No; I'll let him live on in ignorance; for he loves money, and it will keep him in good spirits, and perhaps lengthen his days. I own I should like to see the old rascal again, although he gave me many a tidy licking when I was at home with him.”
“Jemmy,” said another of the party, “you
“What's the odds?” returned Twitcher. “I came out here to see life; and, if the worst comes to the worst, I'll stick in California.”
Finding it necessary one day to purchase some architectural designs, to aid me in the preparation of plans that I had contracted to furnish, I directed my steps towards a crowd of tents in the centre of the town, which formed a sort of “broker's alley,” and where I thought it possible I might find them. I visited several of these places without success, and was abandoning the search in despair, when I met a friend, who told me that he could take me to a place where I might possibly obtain what I required. I accordingly accompanied him to a tent, where I found a sickly looking young foreigner, rather fashionably dressed, who, on learning my business, opened a large portfolio full of engravings, lithographs, and original drawings, many ofaux deux crayons. The original drawings were by the person I saw before me, and struck me with astonishment. I saw at a glance that he had been a close student in some of the best of the Continental schools, and that he possessed genius of no common order.
His history was the old story of the painter's life—early enthusiasm—unsuccessful struggles—a broken spirit. Unable, by the closest application, to earn more than a bare subsistence, he had laid aside his profession in disgust—wandered to the coast of South America in search of better fortunes; and there, hearing of the discovery of the gold mines, had made the best of his way to San Francisco. A being more unfitted for the rough trials and privations that awaited him in the placers could scarcely be found; for, judging from his attenuated and hectic appearance, the seeds of consumption were
Ere I conclude this chapter, which brings me to the eve of my departure from San Francisco, I must not omit to mention a little incident, which, though common-place enough in itself, will serve to illustrate the reckless spirit of adventure that drives so many emigrants to the shores of this country.
Passing through the streets one day, I was accosted by a smart-looking Frenchman, who endeavoured to make me understand something in broken English, in which, owing to his almost entire innocence of the language, all that I could comprehend were the words “Madame Alphonse!”
“Que voulez vous dire, Monsieur?” said I, at length relieving him from his difficulty, which, I own, had somewhat amused me.
“Dieu! vous parlez Français, Monsieur! Qu'elle chance. Je cherche l'addresse d'une dame, Madame Alphonse, enfin, mon épouse, qui demeure a ce qu'on dit dans cette ville.”
“Vous êtes nouvellement arrivé? comment se fait il que vous ne connaissiez pas l'addresse de votre femme.”
M. Alphonse appeared rather embarrassed by the question, but, immediately recovering his self-possession, replied—
“Oui, Monsieur; je ne suis arrivé qu'hier. Le fait est que les affaires étaient si mauvaises à Paris, depuis la revolution de Février, qu'il n'y avait pas de quoi gagner du
pain. Moi je suis tailleur, Monsieur, et ma femme est blanchisseuse de fin. Son cousin Jean Bigot, le carrossier, (vous le connaissez sans doute) étant venu un jour nous annoncer son départ pour San Francisco, nouveau pays de Cocagne ou on n'avait qu'à se baisser pour ramasser de l'or, ma petite écervelée de femme se mit en tête de l'accompagner, m'assurant que les blanchisseuses de fin gagnaient dans ce pays de l'argent gros comme elle et me promettant surtout que sitôt qu'elle serait bien casée elle m'ecrirait de venir la rejoindre. Mais fichtre! le temps se passait et n'entendant pas parler d'elle, je suis venu sans attendre plus long temps lui ménageant l'agréable surprise de me voir arriver! J'ai vendu mon mobilier, disposé de tous les fonds que j'avais pour acheter une pacotille, et me voilà à sa recherche. Vous pouvez, sans doute, m'indiquer son addresse?”
Smiling at the simplicity of the Frenchman, who, it was plain, had been made to play the part of the “ mari complaisant,” in a common enough incident of Parisian life, Ichère épouse, and fully convinced that the whole town of San Francisco must have been equally cognizant of her merits. Feeling rather interested in the dénouement of the story, I offered to conduct him to my own tailor's (a countryman of his), where, if Madame were really in the town, he might possibly obtain some information respecting her.
On our way to this person's residence, a small square tent, with the words “ Bavon, tailleur, de Paris,” proudly emblazoned upon the front, we were overtaken by a German, who, it seems, had arrived in the same vessel with M. Alphonse, and who, it subsequently turned out, was a lady's shoemaker. The Frenchman requested him to accompany us; and he accordingly walked with us to M. Bavon's.
To the anxious inquiries of M. Alphonse,un grand beau garcon, avec des cheveux blnds, et des moustaches rouges, qui se nommait Bigot,” M. Bavon replied, that he had never heard of them, and that he very much doubted if any such persons were living in the town. The countenance of the poor fellow became sadly troubled at this intelligence; but, soon recovering his composure, he put some fresh questions to M. Bavon respecting the chances of his trade in San Francisco. The latter replied, that it would be folly for any man to enter into the business, as the people, generally speaking, preferred ready-made clothing, having but little time to wait for the execution of orders; that the little trade he himself possessed consisted principally in making alterations, it being useless to try and compete with the ready-made clothing stores; and that, were it not for a few regular customers he had amongst some gentlemen of the town, who liked to appear in the European style, he would have been obliged topacotille, were crushed at one fell blow.
When we left the tent, I was fairly overwhelmed with questions by the two foreigners, to neither of whom my answers conveyed much encouragement. The shoemaker was evidently the poorer of the two; and, although I foresaw that the information I had to give him would cause him dreadful disappointment, I felt that it would be rendering him a service to disabuse his mind of the illusions under which he laboured. I told him that I had never seen more than one good shoemaker at work in the country, and that was at the mission of San José that it was impossible to obtain a supply of tanned leather for the manufacture of boots and shoes; and that, even had he the material to work upon, he could never compete with the Yankees, who imported immense quantities of them from the States, selling them in summer
The Frenchman had brought out a large quantity of goods, chiefly clothing; but, finding the town already overstocked with such articles, and the little ready money he had with him fast running out, he was compelled to dispose of them at a ruinous sacrifice, and went up shortly after to the mines. What ultimately became of him I am unable to say; although, I must own, I feel rather curious to learn whether he is still a la recherche de Madame Alphonse.
Departure from San Francisco—A moral deduced from painful experience—Penalties paid for the pursuit of wealth—O'reilly on his return from the land of gold—News of old friends—Dr. Freünd in a scrape—Riot on board—First trip of the California steamer to Panama.
1 st September, 1849. With what feelings of joy and thankfulness do I again find myself tossing on the broad, undulating bosom of the Pacific!—on board an ill-appointed and crowded steamer, it is true; but, for the nonce, a model of nautical perfection in my eyes; for she is homeward bound. Such a world of pleasurable sensations is comprised in that simple word, that it renders me indifferent, for the moment, to all the inconveniences and annoyances by which I am surrounded; not the least of which, I must own, are the eternal grumblings of my fellow passengers. To speak the truth, my roving inclinations havesouvenirs of a mountain life, that I have firmly made up my mind to confine my future roamings within the range of those pleasant incidents of civilized routes—a sea-coal fire and feather bed.
On whatever part of the vessel I cast my eye, I find it crowded with representatives from almost every nation of the globe, the natives of Chili and Peru forming what an Irish elector would call “the dirty majority.” Although they are, most of them, returning with money, they are as filthy and poverty-stricken a looking an assemblage as could well be found out of the precincts of St. Giles's. Most of the Americans on board are suffering from the effects of intermittent fever, ague, and rheumatism, diseases contracted in the insane pursuit of an object, which some of them are never destined to enjoy. The evidences of broken constitutions, crippled limbs, and the
I had not been on board long, when, as I was arranging my baggage in the order in which it was to remain during the voyage, I heard a well-known voice sing out my name; and, on looking towards the place from whence the sounds proceeded, beheld the plump, ruddy face of O'reilly, grinning and nodding at me from one of the upper bunks.
“It's myself that's glad to see you,” said the worthy fellow, after a hearty grip of the hand. “I was afraid that you had kicked the bucket, like many of our old chums, never
“Oh, I have not forgotten the affair, I promise you; for my body was mapped with red lines, by the thorns, for a fortnight afterwards. Bless me, how fat you have grown since I saw you last! Why, you must have stumbled upon some vein of milk and honey in this land of starvation!”
“The devil a bit of it! I've been livin' on tobacco-smoke and point ever since I've been at the mines. There's nothing that swells a man out like that sort of prog; but the worst of it is, if you happen to meet with any hard rubs while you're feedin' on it, you've a chance of collapsing in a minute.”
“By the by,” said I, smiling at the conceit, “what sort of luck have you had at the mines?”
“Oh, I did purty fair, considherin'. I
“You don't mean to say that you are married?”
“Me married! No, by Jabers! though it's my own fault. A rich ranchero's daught—”
“Hold hard, O'reilly! I've heard that story before,” hastily interrupted I, apprehensive that he was about to inflict on me one of those unconscionable yarns in which he was in the habit of indulging, and which generally went to show the high degree of estimation in which he was held by the señoritas, and the overpowering anxiety of the wealthy rancheros to convert him into a son-in-law.
“Have you heard or seen anything of the sergeant of company D? How did he get along at the mines?”
“Oh, he has done capitally. You know he carried up a quantity of provisions, and, as soon as he got a little to rights, fell to tradin' with the wild Ingins; and, being a knowin' Yankee, gammoned them out of an immense sight o' gold. Although we worked like niggers, we couldn't come near him at all: so that it's my private opinion thradin' is a divilish dale more profitable than diggin'. The sergeant is now captain and part owner of a brig running up the Sacramento.”
“Then he's fairly on the road to fortune. Did you see or hear anything of Drew, while you were in the diggins?”
“Oh, yes: he cut a great swell in Stocton and in San Francisco, before your arrival there. He has made and lost thousands of dollars by gamblin'; although he found it hard enough to raise the tin in Monterey. I heard of his sellin' his best pair of pants there, to raise a few dollars for thehe has of makin' a fortune out here, he might as well have remained in his own counthry. He has too many crotchets in his head, and too many strings to his fiddle, to get along among the rough-and-readies of this wild place. If his mother has got any more like him, it's my sarious advice to her to keep them at home.”
“And the German Doctor? What's become of him?”
“He got into a little bit of scrape in the Stanislaus, an' was as near as an ace gettin' scragged for it. Did you never hear of that affair? Well, I'll tell you all about it. He had occasion to go down, one day, to a thradin' store, to buy some physic, when who does he meet but Liftinent M—, of the volunteers, who stopped him, and tould him that he must get down off the horse he was ridin', as it was his property. Freünd refused, sayin' that he had obtained the horse from a Spaniard in Monterey, in exchange for one of his revolvin' pistols; and, havin' come by it fairly, he saw no raison why he should give it up. If M— insisted on it, however, he was ready to go before the Alcalde.
“‘You d—'d Dutchman!’ roared the Liftinant, (you know how passionate he was) ‘if you don't instantly give up my horse, I'll see if I can't make you do it, without appealin' to any humbug of an Alcalde.’
“The Doctor wheeled round, and was ri in away, when the Liftinant galloped after him, flourishin' a long bowie-knife in his hand, and
“I am sincerely rejoiced at it; for, from
“Yes; he was knockin' about in the mines for awhile, sometimes diggin', an' sometimes dhrivin' a thrade in physic; for we had lots of sickness. At last, he fell ill himself; and, like the rest of those humbugs of docthors, couldn't manage to cure himself. Freünd behaved very good-naturedly to him, when he saw he was goin', an', forgettin' the ould spiteful feelin' that was between them, attended him night and day, until he gave up the ghost. Well, I can't say that any of us was very much cut up at losin' him; for he was a bitter enemy, and a quare enough friend. Afther he was buried, one of our counthrymen, who had an old grudge against him,
“Let me hear it.”
“Oh! I'm not shure that I can remember it; but, as well as I can recollect, it ran thus:—
‘Planted like rotting seed beneath this bank,
Never to vegetate, lies Doctor Hank.
For where would death and desolation stop,
If Judson jalap grew into a crop?
The sexton's patron, the grave-digger's pride—
The coffin-market fell when Judson died.’
“Why, it is nothing more than a paraphrase of the well known epitaph on a late eccentric Irish physician.
“You don't say so! And the blackguard wanted to persuade us that he had composed every word of it himself!”
We were now running down the Pacific, with the wind in our favour, and making at the rate of from eight to eleven knots an hour. Notwithstanding the debilitated state of my
I have already incidentally alluded to the disgraceful state of the vessel. Before we had been many days at sea, we found our worst anticipations confirmed; and a disturbance, approaching to a riot, was the consequence. Nothing could have been worse than the arrangements made for our accommodation, the provisions being not only insufficient, but of the most inferior description, and the number of passengers sent on board by the agent greater than the vessel could, with any degree of comfort, afford room for. An additional subject of complaint was the fact that the Chilians, who had first come on board, had appropriated to themselves a number of bunks to which they were not entitled. There were seven or eight volunteers on board, and they resolved to put an end to this state of things. Going to the Captain in a body, they represented to him that they had been crowded out of their berths by the foreigners, and that they conceived they had a right to be treated with at least equal consideration. The Captain, at first, paid no attention to their remonstrances; but, finding them determined, he promised to have a more
The greater part of the Americans, many of them invalids, had been obliged to take the alternative of sleeping upon their trunks, or of lying down on a filthy deck, crowded in almost every part, while the foreigners occupied their berths. The fare in this quarter of the vessel was eighty dollars; and yet the food and treatment the passengers received were fit only for pigs. Nor was the food of the cabin-passengers much better, although they paid the high price of two hundred and fifty dollars; the only advantages they possessed over the others consisting in a slight,—a very slight, difference in the attention paid to the cleanliness of their berths, and the privilege, if it could be called so, of a regular table. It was painful to witness the scrambles that daily took place at the
Whilst on the subject of these steamers, I may as well mention some curious particulars that I learned from one of the passengers respecting the first trip of the California steamer to Panama. She sailed on the 1st of May, as advertised, with Governor Mason and several other persons of note on board. During the passage, a Portuguese sailor, whilst relieving the man at the wheel, had some altercation with
This conduct on their parts still further
“A good wife is a crown to her husband”—A beggar on horseback—“All is not gold that glitters”—Cares and anxieties of wealth—Another outbreak on board—San Diego—San Pedro—A mining-party in a fix—A death on board—San Blas—A happy riddance—Acapulco—The harbour and its incidents.
Returning to my narrative, after this brief digression, I need hardly tell my readers that the passengers of the vessel in which I was embarked presented some amusing varieties and shades of character. Amongst them were to be found some rough illustrations of “the beggar on horseback”—men who, having obtained the sudden possession of wealth, were now determined, as Sam Slick says, “to go the full figure, and do the thing genteel,” by taking the most expensive berths, and strutting about in all the consciousness of their new-born importance. But the more sensible, and, to their credit be it said, the majority of the miners preferred economizing their hard-earned gains, and remaining in the second or steerage-cabin; for there were but two classes of berths on board this vessel. As, in the congregation of doubtful and reckless
There were but two ladies on board, both of whom were married, and had several children to take care of on the voyage. Their husbands had acquired some little money, but had not secured anything like a competency, by the hazardous experiment they had made in emigrating with their wives and families to this remote region. No better proof could be afforded, than their haste to return to their native land, that the future prospects of the country were not such as to induce any one to remain a moment longer than was necessary for the partial attainment of his object. One of these ladies, the daughter of a clergyman, and a woman of considerable intelligence and most amiable manners, had taken her place with her family in the steerage, and exposed herself without a murmur to all the inconveniences and disagreeable associations that I have been describing as incident to that part of the vessel. Her history may serve as a lesson to those fine ladies who affect to think that education unfits them for the homely duties and exertions of
Although only what was strictly termed steerage-passengers, Mrs. E— and her family were in the habit of coming upon deck every afternoon, and seating themselves under the awning stretched over the after-cabin. In no case should this privilege be refused to any well conducted woman at sea; and on the Pacific coast, at the period of which I am speaking, the passengers were usually glad of any accession to the number of females. To most of us, therefore, the
One of the cabin-passengers, a vulgar-looking mechanic, who, by some fortunate chance, had become suddenly enriched, took it into his head to show his importance by turning up his nose at the E— family, and expressing his dissatisfaction at what he termed the barefaced intrusion of women and children from the steerage. No one seemed to pay any attention to his murmurs, except to smile at their folly and absurdity; and the little impression they seemed to make on his hearers only served to swell up the measure of his wrath. One evening, when Mr. E—'s youngest daughter, an interesting child of about ten years of age, was in the act of seating herself, as usual, under the awning, our would-be aristocrat suddenly startled her, by addressing her in the following terms:—
“Don't you know, child, that this is no place for you? These seats are intended for the cabin-passengers, and you have no right to be here.”
“I didn't know, sir,” replied the little girl, frightened at the sternness of the fellow's
“Then go below again, and tell your mother to wash your face. Steerage-passengers have no business here.”
The poor child left the deck, with the tears in her eyes. I have already said, that nothing could be neater or more cleanly than the habits of this family; and I believe that the little thing felt more hurt at the imputation of a dirty face, than at her banishment from the quarter-deck.
A few of us, who happened to overhear this conversation, now approached the purse-proud upstart, and gave him a sound rating for the wanton brutality with which he had addressed the child. His ignorance was, however, too crass, to let him feel the force of our remarks; and, with a feeling more akin to pity than to indignation, we left him to the enjoyment of the consciousness of having manfully asserted the privileges of wealth.
Although it is undeniable that the possession of money produces, amongst the Yankees, as amongst all other nations, that degree of deference which in America may be said to confer the only claims to aristocracy—to their honour be it said, in no country is greater respect paid to woman. Such an incident as that I have just
An amusing illustration of the force of conventional habits, in connexion with this fact, happened to fall within the sphere of my own observation. I was in the billiard-room of the Parker House, in San Francisco, one night, when a fashionably-dressed young man entered, and stretched himself to sleep on one of the sofas, contrary to the rules of the place; it being customary, when any one is caught napping,
One of the passengers in the steerage kept us continually amused by the extraordinary and painful degree of watchfulness which he displayed with respect to the safe custody of a small box about a foot square, in which he had deposited his gold, being too avaricious to allow the Captain his per-centage for keeping it.
I have already alluded to the badness and insufficiency of the food provided for us. The few cows taken on board having been killed and
We put into the port of San Diego, on our way down. This harbour is the most southern in the territory of the United States, lying in latitude 32° 40' N., and longitude 114° 11' W. It forms an arm of the sea ten miles in length and four in width, and, being landlocked, is secure from the influence of the winds. The town of San Diego, consisting of a number of small adobè houses, is situated at the north side of the bay, on a sand-flat two miles wide; whilst the mission is about six miles distant, up a valley to the north-east. The surrounding country is composed of volcanic sand, mixed with scoriæ
We also touched at San Pedro, where we saw some tents belonging to persons on their way to the mines. We were informed that they were in a state of the greatest distress and embarrassment, having neither provisions to subsist upon where they were, nor money to enable them to pursue their voyage up the coast. Some of them had come thus far from the most distant part of Lower California, whilst others had been put on shore from some of the ships. Fortunately, there happened to be a small military station here; and the American officers had humanely done every thing in their power to alleviate their distress.
Whilst lying here, we received a visit from a number of dark-eyed señoritas, who surveyed the steamer with great admiration, and, being received with politeness, remained on board as long as they reasonably could. A few of them were graceful and pleasing in their appearance and manners, but the majority were very far removed from the standard of beauty. Such as they were, however, they infused a little gaiety and cheerfulness amongst us; and the sunshine of their smiles had such an effect on the rough beings that composed the majority of our passengers, that I feel certain, if time had permitted of it, many would have laid their persons and fortunes at their feet.
A few days before we reached San Blas, where the majority of the Spaniards were expected to go ashore, one of the invalids, whose constitution had been broken down by constant hardship and exposure in the mines, after great suffering, breathed his last. I happened to be standing at the foot of the ladder in the steerage, when I heard loud groans issuing from a dark bunk to my right; and, going over to inquire what was the matter, found an elderly Spaniard writhing in agony, and his son leaning over him, apparently in great embarrassment as to the course he should pursue. The attack, as far as I could judge from what he told me, was a sort of spasmodic cholera. I went immediately in search of the doctor; but before I could succeed in finding him, the man was dead.
As we proceeded down the coast, the land everywhere assumed a greener and fresher appearance, the result no doubt of the heavy dews that fall at this period of the year. We soon arrived at San Blas, a picturesque but apparently miniature town, partly screened from our view by lofty trees and foliage of the most luxuriant description. It lies about 21° N. latitude, and is surrounded by low marshes, which render the climate very unhealthy. During the rains, it is completely abandoned by the inhabitants. The roadstead is good; but we had to wait a
Acapulco is the prettiest town I have seen on the coast. It contains many low-sized but substantial houses, constructed of wood, and
Acapulco formerly enjoyed a monopoly of the trade between Manilla, one of the Spanish possessions, and Mexico. It was the principal harbour on the western coast frequented by the
The substantial ruins of brick and stone, which everywhere meet the eye, and which stretch far beyond the boundaries of the site of the town, prove that the place must have been formerly one of great importance. The number of vessels that are likely to touch here on their way to and from San Francisco will, I have no doubt, soon restore it to something like its original greatness.
The church stands in the Plaza, which occupies the centre of the town. The interior is as plain as it can possibly be; but on fête days, it is customary to ornament it with palm-branches and flowers. Observing a miniature ship suspended from the ceiling, I inquired the object of it, and was informed that it had been placed there in compliment to the sailors, of whom great numbers frequent the town, the port being one of the chief recruiting places for whalers. The inhabitants, it seems, have an eye to their interests, even in their devotions; and certainly I know of nothing in the way of ecclesiastical adornment more likely to tickle the fancy of Jack.
The weather being exceedingly hot, and fruit being known to abound here, a good deal of sickness was apprehended from the indiscretion of the passengers. In San Francisco, fruit had been so scarce during the whole of the time that I remained there, that an apple readily fetched fifty cents, whilst peaches frequently brought from two to three dollars a piece. There was some reason, therefore, to fear the effects of over-indulgence in the delicious tropical fruits which were here so cheap and plentiful. I own that, personally, I had great difficulty in restraining my appetite, so refreshing did I find them after the heated atmosphere of a crowded vessel.
I was told that when the first steamer touched here, on its way to San Francisco, it created a prodigious sensation, and brought down the population in immense numbers to the shore. Nothing could persuade some of the most superstitious of the natives but that his Satanic Majesty had arrived in propria persona.
Cock-fighting seems to be one of the chief amusements of the inhabitants; and at the door of almost every house may be seen one of those pugnacious birds, tied to a stick sunk in the ground, and sending forth now and then a shrill challenge to his opposite neighbours.
I remained but a short time on shore, and on
“Señores, necesitan ustedes algo?”
“Señorita, deme usted huevos, Quanto vale la docena?”
“Huevos! huevos para mi.”
“D—n it, man, those are mine!”
“What a bore that I can't make her understand me! I say, Jem, what's eggs in Spanish?”
“Huevos.”
“Oh, yes, to be sure. What a bad memory I've got! Huevos! huevos! muchacha.”
“Quantos quiere usted, señor?”
“The devil! What's four shillings in their lingo?”
“Un peso.”
“Huevos, muchacha, huevos por un peso.”
The eggs were here passed up, and there was a regular scuffle for them, the person who had first asked for them being, as usual, the last served. After a scene of indescribable confusion, in which the parties engaged seemed frequently on the point of coming to blows, the wants of all were at length supplied, and something like tranquillity restored.
Previous to our arrival, an apprehension had prevailed amongst us that we should find the cholera raging here; but, on being assured that there were no traces of it, we abandoned ourselves to the full enjoyment of the delicious fruits and vegetables with which the place abounded. Over indulgence, however, generally brings with it a penalty, and several of the passengers suffered severely from it in this instance. One of them with whom I was on terms of intimacy, from his companionable qualities, returned on
Getting all our passengers on board with some difficulty, we proceeded on our voyage.serapa, to throw around me. On my return, to my great mortification, I found the place occupied; and I was compelled to pass several hours of the night on my feet, from the difficulty of finding another spot to lie down upon. The rest of the voyage to Panama was tedious and uncomfortable in the extreme, and it was with no small degree of satisfaction that we one night found ourselves safely anchored in the bay of that town.
Arrival at Panama—Agreeable surprise—The American Hotel—Scene in a cockpit—Decayed appearance of the public buildings—Robbery of gold-dust—Crossing the Isthmus—Cortes's road—A lady cavalier—The carriers of Panama—Crucis—Exorbitant charges—Arrival at Gorgona—A Kanaka heroine—Chagres—Departure for New York.
Our arrival at Panama was first indicated to us by the glimmering of a solitary light proceeding from one of the houses; but, although we were literally gasping with anxiety to get ashore, we were compelled to wait until the morning: and wait we did, wakefully, for not one of us slept a wink the whole night. Morning broke at last, and found us anchored at three or four miles from shore, within a mile of a lofty, abrupt hill to our left, composed principally of rock, but the summit clothed with verdure.
The Bay is extensive, and surrounded with green and undulating hills, although the appearance of the landscape indicates a warm, damp, and unhealthy atmosphere. To our right, in the distance, stood the decaying walls of a fort, stretching for a full mile along the shore; whilst opposite to us lay several miniature islands, that,
Whilst we were contemplating this beautiful scene, with feelings which will be readily appreciated by those who have been long confined to a vessel, and especially by those who have passed a considerable period remote from the haunts of civilized men, we observed several canoes approaching us from the shore, many of them being of enormous size, varying in length from thirty to forty feet, but in width from four to five, each hewn out of one solid piece of timber. Some of them carried sails, but the majority were paddled along by half-clad negroes, smaller in their proportions, but infinitely less repulsive in appearance than any I had ever met with in the United States. There was general rejoicing when they reached the side of our vessel, for they brought us the agreeable intelligence that the town was perfectly healthy: welcome news, indeed, as various reports had reached us, all tending to confirm the fact of the prevalence of cholera. We subsequently ascertained that the “ vomito,” a malady to which the natives are particularly subject during the rainy season, had occasioned a great
We experienced some difficulty in procuring a canoe, as they were at once seized upon by those who had preconcerted their arrangements for the purpose. I had joined a party who were in the same predicament as myself, and we all resolved to follow the general example, and make a rush at the first that should now draw near. I should state that the captain would not permit the ship's boats to be used for conveying the passengers ashore, and his refusal occasioned a violent altercation, the sturdy miners threatening to give him and the mate a sound thrashing.
Our party succeeded, after much scuffling, in procuring a canoe. We found the natives exceedingly “wide awake” in pecuniary matters, and had to argue lustily before we could conclude even an extravagant bargain for conveying us ashore; though, as the whole party divided the expense, it fell lightly on each individual, the passage costing twenty dollars.
It proved a wearisome one; for there was such a strong current running in a north-easterly direction, that to make direct for the town was impossible, and we were obliged to run for the inner extremity of the Bay, hugging the shore
Scarcely had we touched bottom, than there came about us a crowd of half-clad negroes, men and boys, anxious to assist in landing and carrying our luggage. We disembarked opposite a lofty, arched gateway, from which every particle of wood had disappeared. The place had evidently been built by the early Spaniards, and I surveyed the once massive but now crumbling walls with interest. Upon a height, inside the boundary-wall of the town, stood an enormous stone sentry-box, constructed somewhat after the Moorish style; indeed, I observed in many places evidences of a taste for a mongrel species of architecture, none of the buildings having any pretensions to purity of style.
I had heard Panama spoken of as a wretched and insignificant place, but, upon entering the principal street, I was most agreeably surprised. The streets are narrow, it is true; but this peculiarity has its great advantage, inasmuch as it affords shelter from the scorching rays of the sun. The great height of the houses also contributes to this effect, and in other respects they are well adapted to obviate the disagreeableness of the climate.
This street brought us to the “Plaza,” which is partially paved with large stones, and here and there covered with grass; a circumstance that elicited from my companion—one of thethey would not let the grass grow under their feet. In one corner of the Square stood the guard-house, at the door of which we saw three or four wretched-looking soldiers, without shoes or stockings.
I put up at the “American Hotel,” at which the usual charge for accommodation is fourteen dollars a week. It is a lofty, substantial house, and, at the time of my arrival, lodged ninety persons, the majority of them Americans, on their way to and from California. The table was good, but the beds were mere cots, with nothing but a couple of quilts for covering. There was one billiard-table in this establishment; and I shall not readily forget the fatigue I incurred in getting up to it, so many flights of stairs had I to ascend, and so many questions to ask.
After arranging my toilet, and taking some refreshment, I sauntered out into the town, and strolled about until I came to a billiard-room, where, without entering, I observed some twenty or thirty men of colour congregated around it, smoking cigars, betting upon the odds, or watching with much apparent interest the progress of the game. They were mostly dressed in white, and wore Panama hats; and I need not add,
Hearing that next day there was some cock-fighting coming off, at the further extremity of the town, towards the road by which we were to cross, I went to witness one of these spectacles for the first time; for, though I had never had any great taste for such sights, it was worth going to see, as an amusement of the people I was now among.
The locality was a kind of circus, capable of containing perhaps five hundred persons. The seats were arranged in such an unusually steep manner, that all could witness the performances in the cockpit, without any obstruction from the persons sitting in front of them. The place was crowded with people of colour, and in the pit were several who held gamecocks in their hands, examining the birds with the air of accomplished and profound connoisseurs. In an arm-chair, elevated some two or three feet from the ground, was seated a very old gentleman, whose hair was snowy white, and whose complexion was whitey-brown, and who was dressed in trousers and a jacket of white linen; his whole appearance being remarkably neat; whilst he displayed, in the discharge of his functions, all the dignity and importance of a magistrate. Over and above the buzz of voices, there was a shrill and continual
After I had remained seated here some time, the spectacle commenced by two men going out of the pit, and presently returning with a couple of gamecocks, having long steel spurs bound to their heels. The old gentleman whom I have described now rang a bell, and the two men, pitting the cocks against each other, let them go. One of them was killed in fifteen seconds, the spur of his antagonist having penetrated his breast. The spur is an instrument, in shape something like a scythe, and about two inches long. I was cruel enough to feel disappointed at this expeditious despatch of matters; for I had expected to behold a protracted fight; but, having no curiosity to witness another display, I quitted the amphitheatre, to which the price of admission, I should have stated, was only five cents.
As I was returning to my hotel, I encountered a crowd of persons running after a bull up the street, the animal being secured by a rope tied around his horns, the other end of which was held by one of the natives, a part of it encircling his wrist. The poor thing seemed driven almost to desperation; and his fury was further excited by several urchins, who waved blankets before his eyes, and set dogs on him, which barked most energetically, but turned tail as soon as the bull
The town possesses a cathedral and several large and handsome churches built of stone. I went into one of these, and noticed severalfête that was about to take place. Being the only white man in the church, I attracted more notice than was altogether agreeable, and therefore withdrew. On another occasion, I entered the same edifice during the celebration of divine service, the priests being at their matins. Notwithstanding their apparent devotion, however, they all raised their eyes from their books, and looked at me as though I were some strange animal just escaped from a menagerie.
These priests, when they are out of doors, wear enormous black hats—the brims being nearly three feet in diameter—and long black gowns or gaberdines. I saw one of them, next day, indulging in a practice decidedly unclerical; but ecclesiastics, in these latitudes, must not be judged by our European standard.
Besides the cathedral and the churches, there are two convents of the order of San Antonio and San Francisco, which are in comparatively good repair; but several others, which are to be found in various parts of the town, are in complete ruins.
It is melancholy to contemplate the decayed state of some of the finest buildings on the
Even the private houses are not exempt from the appearance of decay. On visiting several of them, I was surprised at the great height and spaciousness of the apartments, and at the solidity of the walls. Many of them are twenty feet high, and nearly as many in width. This mode of construction evinces no economy of space, but is admirably adapted to the comfort of the inhabitants, as it renders the dwellings infinitely cooler and more agreeable, during the greater part of the year, than any place that can be found out of doors. The eaves of the houses are generally made to project as far as possible, and are supported by wooden posts. Some of them have verandas in front, the wood-work of which, as well as the building itself, is white-washed.
The majority of shops in the town are small, but they are numerous. Some of the Yankees had recently established a few hotels and eating establishments, but very few were located here in any other branch of business. The climate is,
Four-fifths of the population are of the negro race. They had probably come into the country in the capacity of slaves to the Spaniards, but their masters had long since lost their supremacy. A few of pure Castilian descent were still to be found; and, though these pride themselves on the fairness of their complexion, and their superior intelligence, they are utterly insignificant in point of influence.
In the hands of the people of the United States, this town could easily be rendered prosperous. The majority of the edifices are susceptible of cheap and effectual improvement, and it would require but a comparatively small outlay of money to put the whole town in complete repair, many of the most substantial buildings being entirely deserted, owing to a deficiency of wood-work, which seems to have rotted, or been torn away. When such improvements shall have been effected, and a better road cut across the Isthmus, this neglected place will assume a charming appearance. The black, woolly population will, however, remain a prominent characteristic of the town; and it perhaps will be maintained by some, that their presence will prove a great obstacle to its restoration; for it may be asserted by those who
The Americans whom I had heard speak of Panama, judging of it merely from the character of the present population and probably the state of the weather when they visited it, had informed me that it was one of the dirtiest and most disgusting places they had ever seen—the town being half sunk in mud, and, to use their own phraseology, “overrun with niggers.” I had therefore expected to find it merely a collection of adobè and cane tenements, without a vestige of the labours of the civilized race that had once colonized it. Few places, however, have more interested me. As I surveyed the various remains of former greatness that everywhere presented themselves to my view, I was struck with admiration at the enterprising genius and indomitable perseverance of the old Spaniards, and contrasted them with the indolent habits and degenerate spirit of their descendants. When we examine those enduring monuments of their vast labours, and take into consideration the gigantic difficulties which they had to encounter
I had some difficulty in hiring mules to Crucis, owing to the number of persons who were travelling that road. The natives had raised the price in proportion to the demand, and I found it impossible to obtain any sort of animal at less than sixteen dollars for the trip. I thought this rather extravagant, as the distance was only thirty miles, and felt very reluctant to hire a second one at the same price. Whilst reflecting on the matter, one of the volunteers informed me that I could hire one of the negroes to carry my baggage across for five dollars. I was rather surprised at this, having heard a formidable account of the difficulties of the road; but, on inquiry, found that such was the fact, and accordingly made the bargain.
I had passed three days in Panama; and, feeling desirous of continuing my journey, I had no
The negro brought to my hotel a long frame of bamboo, with a sort of basket at the end, into which he crammed my luggage. This frame had two straps fastened to the upper part of it, through one of which he slipped his arm, whilst he passed the other over his left shoulder, and attached it under the latter to the frame which was now on his back. This contrivance not only effectually secures the load in its place, but protects the shoulders of the bearer from the continual friction they would otherwise undergo.
A large party had preceded me; but I felt no anxiety to overtake it, as there was little or no danger of my encountering violence on the route. I was armed with a good revolving pistol, in the
As I rode up the principal street, I perceived a commotion at the entrance to one of the hotels, and, on stopping to inquire the cause of it, I was informed that Mr. Burke, one of the passengers by the Panama steamer, had been robbed of a considerable amount in gold-dust. The trunk that contained it had been missing for several days, but had just been found, rifled of its contents, on one of the roads in the vicinity of the town. The gentleman to whom it belonged seemed to take the matter much more coolly than the persons by whom he was surrounded. I could not help admiring his philosophy, and told him that I supposed it was in some degree owing to his having adopted the usual precaution of dividing his money, and carrying a portion of it about his person. He replied that he had fortunately done so, or he should have been left without the means of continuing his journey; and, as to the loss he had incurred, there was no use in fretting about evils that could not be remedied. Considering the distance he had come, and the perils he had encountered in search of the little store of wealth he was bringing home with him, I must say that he displayed more than ordinary
I proceeded on my route with my sable attendant, and found the commencement pleasant enough travelling, the road for some distance being paved with large and regularly cut stone. This, however, soon terminated in abundance of sand; the route still continuing dry, and comparatively easy to what I had expected to find it. Soon after we had quitted the paved road, the negro stopped, and asked my permission to take a few things to his family, who lived in a small hut to our left. Apprehensive that he was meditating an escape with my luggage, I replied that I had no objection, provided he would leave his basket in my care. He accordingly took the frame off his back, and, separating a small bundle containing provisions from my baggage, he took his departure. I took care, however, to keep him in sight, and saw him enter a wretched-looking bamboo-hut at a little distance from the route. He remained absent a considerable time; and, having paid him half his wages in advance, according to the usual custom with these people, who are exceedingly distrustful, I began to fear that he was about to desert me, and therefore called out lustily, until at last I saw him reluctantly emerge from the hut, and make his way towards me. These negroes being constantly in
A few miles further on, I again found myself on a stone road, said to have been paved by Cortes to facilitate the passage of his troops from the Atlantic to the Pacific coast; and, although I have travelled rougher and steeper routes in Lower California, I cannot say that I have ever encountered such a combination of petty difficulties and annoyances. The road is, for the greater part, barely wide enough to admit of one mule passing with its packs, the sides forming steep embankments, composed chiefly of rich clay, but, in many places, of large rocks, through which a passage had evidently been cut with great labour. But little of the country can be seen on either side, owing to the height of these embankments; but now and then the traveller obtains a glimpse of dense thickets, and occasionally of undulating hills, the summits of which are covered with a deep perennial green. The recent rains having poured in torrents down the steep sides of the road, every cavity and crevice was filled with water and mud. Owing to the nature of the soil, and the constant traffic across the route from the time it was originally cut through, innumerable stones and flags had
The mules themselves are, as I have already stated, so worn-out and broken-down, that it requires the utmost vigilance and care on the part of their riders to prevent them dropping, and precipitating them into the mire. In order to guard as much as possible against this contingency, whenever ladies travel this route, they are obliged to discard the side-saddle, and resort to a less feminine style of equitation. I overtook a party of about twenty persons on the road, amongst whom was a married lady, on her way to the States; and I watched her rather curiously, to observe how she got over the difficulties that beset her. Being fortified with that article of male attire, the figurative possession of which is said to denote domestic ascendency, she thought it incumbent upon her, I suppose, to display all the courage and nerve that should properly be encased in it. Several times, when I fancied that both she and her mule were on the point of being capsized, she recovered herself with ISTHMUS OF PANAMA—THE RETURN HOME.
As to myself, I floundered on as well as I could with a mule tottering beneath me from sheer exhaustion, and sinking every minute up to his knees in mud. It seemed to me that we were making little or no progress; and I became thoroughly tired and disheartened. I do not know any temptation, however powerful, that would again induce me to encounter the never-ending series of difficulties and annoyances that laid in wait for me at every step; and I must candidly own, that even the force of female example, of which I had so merry a specimen before me, did not at all shame me into a less impatient endurance of them.
The negroes whom I met on their way to and from Panama excited my astonishment, from the amount of physical exertion which they seemed capable of undergoing. With their legs and feet bare, and nothing but a cloth around their loins, they carried enormous burdens on their backs, stepping from stone to stone with wonderful strength and dexterity. These poor creatures must lead the most wretched and laborious of all the painful modes of existence to which their race is condemned; and not even long habit, or their peculiar physical construction, can divest it of its distressing character in
Moving somewhat like a ship in a storm, rising and sinking alternately at stern and bow, surmounting first one huge stone, then a deep mud hole, then another stone, and then a small lake, my mule and myself at last reached Crucis in the evening, the whole distance traversed not being above twenty miles. Here, although half dead with fatigue, I could not get a place to sleep; and the prices demanded for every thing in the shape of refreshment was quite on the scale of Californian charges—a couple of dollars being asked for a plate of meat, and two dollars more for cooking it. The good people of this place, being on the highway to the land of gold, doubtless think it but right that those who travel on it should pay toll for the privilege.
The houses here are also built of cane, with
Next morning, I joined a small party about to start, and we hired a canoe for fifty dollars, or about five dollars each, to convey us down the river. We were informed that the current ran with extraordinary swiftness towards Gorgona, and that we should, therefore, have no difficulty in rowing. The canoes are similar to
About an hour after dusk, we arrived at Gorgona, and stopped at the base of a small hill, on the right bank of the river, where we found several empty canoes that had just landed theirpar excellence, of the river, and which rejoices in the appellation of rancho blanco; although every thing connected with it is as black and filthy as it is possible to imagine. Here we found assembled about twenty-five travellers; and the number was presently increased by the arrival of a small party that had come part of the way by land, their canoe having been capsized a few miles above, owing to the unskilful management of the negroes. One of the natives was drowned, and the passengers had lost all their baggage. More lives would have been sacrificed, but for the skill and courage of a Kanaka female, the wife of one of the passengers, who happened fortunately to be on board. Like the generality of her countrywomen, she was an admirable swimmer, and, after saving her husband, and bringing him to the shore, she returned and brought out several of the other passengers who were unable to swim, and who would certainly have been lost but for her aid. She was a stout, well-formed woman, with the dark complexion and characteristic features of the Sandwich Islanders. We were, of course, loud in our praises of the heroism she had displayed; but she took it all very modestly, and
In the bustle and excitement consequent on the arrival of so many passengers, we found it a matter of no small difficulty to get any of the people of the house to attend to us; and it was only after strenuous and persevering exertions that we eventually succeeded in obtaining a cup of coffee, but without any thing to eat with it. This, with a roll that I had luckily thrown into my carpet-bag, in the apprehension of such a contingency, formed the whole of my supper; and yet I fared better than several of my companions, who could get nothing whatever to eat. Having partially appeased the cravings of my appetite, I had time to look around me, and found that the house, which, as I have said before, was built of cane, contained but two apartments, one of which was the kitchen. Over the latter, I perceived a large bamboo frame, placed horizontally upon two cross-beams, at a considerable height from the ground; and, to my surprise, learned that this formed the floor of the bed-chamber destined for our party. Such as it was, however, we thought it better to sleep, if sleep were possible, on the ribs of the bamboo than to lie on the floor of the room, which was damp and filthy, and already almost entirely preoccupied. Seven or eight of us, therefore,
Our night quarters, although admirably adapted as a roosting-place for fowls, was neither calculated to afford us the facility of adopting the position most in favour amongst the feathered tribe, or of stretching our limbs comfortably after the fashion of man. The bamboo frame was, as might have been anticipated, so rough and uneven, that, notwithstanding the efforts that we made, by the aid of our blankets, to render it endurable, it was impossible to obtain a moment's rest upon it. The ridge pole of the roof, not being more than a few feet from the frame, it was equally impracticable for us to
Amongst the persons subjected to this fumigatory process were three officers in the United States' navy, and an assistant-surgeon belonging to their vessel. Although accustomed to perch aloft in all sorts of weather, I question whether they had ever encountered such a hard night's service as they were compelled to undergo on the bamboo spars of this detestable cockloft. Such shifting and turning, and restless feverishness, alternated by the most pitiable groans and the most ludicrous maledictions, it has never been my lot to assist in; and I need not say that, when morning broke, we were but too happy to swing ourselves down from our uncomfortable elevation, and, after a scanty and hurried meal, to bid adieu to a place of entertainment without a parallel in the discomforts of road-side adventure.
Entering our canoes soon after dawn, we rowed down the river to Chagres, and arrived there after a passage of between six and seven hours, during nearly the whole of which time the rain poured
There are but few Americans settled here, the climate being in general fatal to foreigners. I had scarcely arrived before I began to feel the effects of it on my own frame, in a general lassitude and depression of spirits. A good deal of this may be attributable to local causes, susceptible of modification, with improved habits and greater attention to cleanliness on the part of the population.
The only object worthy of notice here is the fort at the mouth of the river. It is situated on
Although anxious to get away from this dismal place as speedily as possible, I preferred waiting for the Falcon steamer to embarking on board the Alabama—the first vessel announced to sail—in the hope of visiting New Orleans; a city I had long been desirous of seeing. After a rapid and uneventful passage, we at length entered the Mississippi; but I was disappointed in the object with which I had taken my place on board the Falcon, the Ohio meeting us at night, on her way down, and taking on board all the passengers bound for New York.
abregé of the intelligence received from that country up to the present period a desirable addition to the present work.
The files of papers, containing accounts to the 1st of October, bring the following interesting news:—
“Discoveries have been made which almost induce us to believe that the whole country, from San Diego to Cape Mendocina; from the Pacific to the topmost ridge of the Nevada; and Heaven knows how much further eastward! has been completely seasoned and spiced with the yellow grains. News reached San Francisco of a large ‘placer’ having been found on Trinity River—a stream which rises in the Coast Range, and empties into the Pacific, opposite the head of Sacramento Valley. The story was soon verified by intelligence from the diggings on the American Fork, which stated that the diggers were leaving in large bodies for the Trinity placer, where men were said to wash out $100 a day. It is best to receive the stories of gold-digging, even here, with a grain of allowance; but the main fact is true. I lately saw a letter from a merchant in Sacramento city to his partner in San Francisco:—‘There is good news from Trinity River; gold is very plenty, and provisions scarce. We shall make a great raise on the loads I have sent there.’
“Near the Mission of San Antonio, situated among the coast mountains, sixty miles south of this, a washing of considerable richness has been discovered. At the last accounts, a number of people were working them with fair success, and traders are beginning to send their teams in that direction. Gold is said to exist in small quantities near the Mission of Carmel, only four miles from this town; and, in fact, ther is every geological indication of it. That San Francisco itself is built on a placer, I am well satisfied. To my certain knowledge, boys have picked up $4 and $5 in a few hours, from clay dug thirty feet below the surface, in sinking a well. The story of Mr. Harrison, the collector, having found gold in the adobès of the Custom-House, is something more than a joke. But by far the most magnificent discovery is that recently made upon the ranché of Colonel Fremont, on the Mariposas River. It is nothing less than a vein of gold in the solid rock—a bona fide mine—the first which has been found in California. Whether it was first detected by a party of Sonomans, or by the company which Colonel Fremont organized last spring, and which has been working in the same locality, is a disputed point; though, I believe, the credit is due to the latter. At any rate, the gold is there, and in extraordinary abundance. I saw some specimens which were in Colonel Fremont's possession. The stone is a reddish quartz, filled with rich veins of gold, and far surpassing the specimens brought from North Carolina and Georgia. Some stones picked up on the top of the quartz strata, without particular selection, yielded 2 oz. of gold to every 25lb. Colonel Fremont informed me, that the vein had been traced for more than a mile. The thickness on the surface is 2 feet, gradually widening as it descends, and showing larger particles of gold. The dip downward is only about 20 degrees, so that the mine can be worked with little expense. These are the particulars first given me when the discovery was firstranché upon which it is situated was purchased by Colonel Fremont, in 1846, from Alvarado, former governor of the territory. It was then considered nearly worthless; and Colonel Fremont only took it at the moment of leaving the country, because disappointed in obtaining another property. This discovery has made a great sensation throughout the country, yet it is but the first of many such. The Sierra Nevada is pierced in every part with these priceless veins, which will produce gold for centuries after every spot of earth, from base to summit, shall have been turned over and washed out.
“So much for the gold. In other respects, the country is tolerably quiet; speculation in lots, though still going on, having assumed a more cautious character. San Francisco, Stocton, Sacramento city, and San José, still maintain their value. Benecia lots are rather dull, and have slightly fallen; while Colonel Stevens's New York of the Pacific, with its awkward and absurd title, does not seem to be thought of. A town named Vernon, at the mouth of Feather River, is rising rapidly to notice, and another is said to be springing up on Trinity River. Many persons have made large fortunes by buying up lots at lucky times, and selling them still more luckily. A case was told me of a young man who, last fall, borrowed money to pay his passage from the Sandwich Islands to San Francisco, and who is now on his way home with $80,000 made in this manner. Three or four gentlemen, who came up in the Panama, have already made $20,000 by similar operations. A friend ofrestaurants in the town kept by Kang-sung and Wang-tong, where every palatable chow-chow, curry, and tarts, are served up by the Celestials. Washing is still $8 a dozen; and the consequence is, large quantities of soiled linen are sent to our antipodes to be purified. A vessel just in from Canton brought 250 dozen, which were sent out a few months ago; another, from the Sandwich Islands, brought 100 dozen; and the practice is now becoming general. San Francisco is, in fact, more metropolitan in its character than any port in the world. Its trade with all parts of the Pacific is rapidly increasing. The overland emigration is pouring into the country in a full tide. The reports that reached here of distress on the routes, and the certainty that many would need aid before reaching the settlements, caused a public movement in favour of raising supplies to send out on the routes. Private individuals and companies contributed largely; and General Riley, on being applied to, promptly gave a carte blanche to Major Cauley and Captain Kain, of the Q.M. department, to furnish all the assistance in their power. Several hundred pack-mules, under the charge of competent officers, have been sent to Vallecitos, at the edge of the great desert, and to the sink of Humboldt's River, in the great basin, the places where emigrants will most require aid. Word has reached us that many waggons have stopped at the latter place, unable to proceed further. I have heard of no such distress on the northern route as the southern. The emigrants in the north, so far as I learn, have not been molested by the Indians; while the hostilities of the Yumas and
“As to prices, all mining tools are high, as are also all articles upon which labour has been performed here. Picks, $5; pans, $5; cradles for washing gold, three feet long, worth $2 in the States, sell here for $40; flour, from $8 to $10 per hundred; pork, $50 per hundred; coffee, $18; board, $21 per week, or $1 50 cents per meal, with the privilege of sleeping under the nearest tree unoccupied. At the mines, sixty miles distant, the prices are doubled, and of some things trebled. Brandy, $2 per bottle. At the mines they are making, on an average, an ounce of gold per day. One man who arrived here this month, made in two weeks $25,000, and has gone to San Francisco to take passage for the States. Labour is in proportion to the produce of the mines, ranging from $8 to $18 per day.
“Vessels continue to arrive at San Francisco from the United States. When I left there, two weeks ago, 102 vessels had arrived out of the 250 which sailed from different ports in the United States during the winter and spring. Since then, they are beginning to crowd in more rapidly. I was this morning informed, though not from the most reliable authority, that forty-five had arrived in two days. The harbour presents for miles an unbroken forest of masts; ships from every nation and country lie here idle and worthless, with no prospect of ever leaving: many must go down at their anchor, for there are not men enough unemployed to work the twentieth part of them. The men will leave; there is no way of detaining them for duty on board: the naval force has been weakened by desertion; and there is no human effort or possibility to prevent the ‘custom’ of deserting. Commander Jones has barely force enough on board to form a crew, much less to tender assistance to merchant-men. There are yet scores of vessels in port that have been months endeavouring to discharge; some
The “New York Herald” gives a less favourable view of the intelligence from the mines. It says:—
“The intelligence from California is interesting, but by no means so favourable as generally anticipated. The Oregon, at Panama, from San Francisco, brought about $400,000 on freight, and the passengers have about $200,000 in their trunks. This makes a total of about $4,000,000 received from the gold mines of California. Our advices from San Francisco are to the 1st of October. The digging season at this time was nearly over; and the miners were flocking into San Francisco in large numbers, on their way to the Atlantic ports. We learn that steamers for Panama, which are to leave California during the next four months, have been already filled up, and that tickets command a large premium. It appears by this, that there is as much anxiety to get away from as to get to San Francisco. The miners have not made out so well this season as they did last, or as they expected. It is estimated, that about 100,000 have gone in the mines this season, and that the average product of gold-dust has not been more than $4 per head.
“The Convention at Monterey was still in Session. It had been agreed to prohibit slavery; though free negroes were not be permitted to enter the state. Pueblo San José had been agreed upon as the seat of government. The right of suffrage was to be extended to all free white male citizens of the United States, after six months' residence in the state. Banks of discount were to be prohibited, and banks of deposit strictly protected. The boundary agreed upon includes all Alta-California; but an effort would be made to confine it to the Sierra Nevada, on the east. The
The “Pacific News” (San Francisco), of the 15th of November, says:—
“We have had the pleasure of conversing with a very intelligent gentleman, who has just returned from a long tour of observation through the mining district. His investigations have led him to the conclusion that its greatest riches have not yet been reached, but still await the labours of miners more experienced and skilful than those engaged in the work. He saw personally several diggings, richer far than those in relation to which our credulity has already been severely taxed. At the same time, he places the average gain of the whole body of miners now employed at a considerably lower figure than is usually given. He thinks that mining, having been, as heretofore conducted, a game of chance, and uncertain as a lottery, or a fair-bank, is now about to become a less hazardous game of skill and scientific calculation, at which good and experienced players, and they only, will be sure largely to win. The observation of our informant fully confirms the general impression that there is to be a serious deficiency in the winter stock of provisions in the mining regions, without allowing anything for the consumption of the overland emigration now on its way thither.”
An influential memorial from the merchants and traders of New York had been presented to the President, asking for the establishment of a direct semi-monthly mail between that port and Chagres. This line, if established, and the line already provided for by act of Congress, carrying the mails between New York, Charleston, Savannah, Havannah, New Orleans, and Chagres, would give to the whole Atlantic coast a means of intercourse with the Pacific far exceeding those now enjoyed, and yet no more than is required by the vast emigrations to the gold regions, and the
Files of papers from San Francisco, extending to the 1st of December, mention that the elections had taken place and passed off quietly, and resulted in the success of the whole ticket, in opposition to the people's ticket party. Several suicides had taken place. The British bark Collooney, Livingstone, from Oregon, viâ Vancouver's Island, had been seized by the collector of San Francisco, for a violation of the revenue laws, in bringing cargo from one American port to another.
A good deal of interest had been excited in San Francisco by the exhibition of some remarkable specimens of gold, embedded in quartz rocks, said to have been found in inexhaustible quarries through the mountainous region which forms the western slope of the Sierra Nevada. Gold had also been discovered within ten miles of Panama.
The following extract is from the President's Message, delivered to the thirty-first Congress of the United States, dated the 24th of December:—
“The great mineral wealth of California, and the advantages which its ports and harbours, and those of Oregon, afford to commerce, especially with the islands of the Pacific and Indian Oceans, and the popular regions of Eastern Asia, make it certain that there will arise, in a few years, large and prosperous communities on our western coast. It therefore becomes important that a line of communication, the best and most expeditious which the nature of the country will admit, should be opened within the territory of the United States, from the navigable waters of the Atlantic, or the Gulf of Mexico, to the Pacific. Opinion, as elicited and expressed by two large and respectable conventions, lately assembled at St. Louis and Memphis, points to a railroad, as that which, if practicable, will best meet the wishes and wants of the country. But while this, if in successful operation, would be a work of great national importance, and of a value toreconnaisance of the several proposed routes by a scientific corps; and a report as to the practicability of making such a road, with an estimate of the cost of its construction and support.”
Accounts from San Francisco, to the 31st December, state that rather a serious fire had taken place in that city, occasioning a destruction of property to the value of $2,000,000. The loss had principally fallen on the American and Chili settlers. Twenty-five houses had been burned, and nearly an acre of ground laid bare. In a week after, such was the extraordinary energy of the sufferers, that the site was already half-covered with houses, built and building. While the fire was still burning, one of the parties who had lost most heavily by the conflagration, bargained for and purchased lumber to rebuild his house; and, before six o'clock the same evening, he had concluded and signed a contract with a builder to reconstruct his house in sixteen days, under a penalty.
The progress of San Francisco is described as perfectly wonderful, and as finding no parallel in its bustling activity and restless energy, save the great metropolis of the world—London itself. Immense sums were being continually drained out of the country; in November alone, $2,300,000 in gold-dust had been exported; but, on the other hand, in the latter week
Under the above date (31st December), we have a short price-current of articles as sold at San Francisco. Coals sold on board, free of expense to the shipper, at $40, $45, and one parcel at $50 per ton, but falling; $35 is the safest quotation. Ale, Tennants and Byass's, $4 50c. to $5 per dozen, wholesale. Bricks, Garnkirk and Stourbridge, $45 per 1,000; great demand. Carpeting, Brussels, $2 50c. to $3; Kidderminster, $2; Axminster, $1 6c. Blankets, Witney, assorted, $4 to $5 per pair. Coloured cotton shirts, $7 to $8 per dozen. Merino drawers, $22 per dozen; woollen hose, (grey) $7 to $8 per dozen. Merino shirts, $27 to $28 per dozen; Flushing trousers, $4 50c. per pair. Pea-jackets and coats, $8 to $10 each; brogans, (English) $24 to $28 per dozen. Heavy boots, pegged, $20 per pair, for fair quality; ditto, pegged, superior quality, $40 to $60 per pair. Long fishing-boots, well nailed, are worth $100 a-pair. The streets of San Francisco are such sloughs and quagmires of mud, that good, long, thick boots, to come over the knee, are worth almost their weight in gold. Preserved meats, 25c. to 30c. per lb. Drugs, abundant; no sales. Red and blue flannel shirts, $18 to $20 per dozen. Macintosh waterproofs unsaleable. Silks, in great demand; large consignments from China sold at very high prices. Prints, fast colours; dark, rich styles, $4 50c. to
There is a considerable trade springing up with Mexico; and there is no doubt that the business hitherto done between that country and Valparaiso and Lima is being diverted to this market.
Iron houses are very abundant, but in slight demand. Ready-made houses of all classes, and of every material, are abundant and unsaleable. The rage for them has completely died away. But building materials of iron and zinc would sell well.
Chili flour sold lately as high as $45 per sack of 200 lb, on shore: the price is now $26 to $28. Flour has been a splendid speculation lately. In three days, it rose from $8 to $32 per sack of 200 lb, and in a week was up to $45. A vessel came in from Chili when the rage was at its height. She cleared $50,000 gain to the shipper, and made $10,000 commissions to the consignee.
The following details, extracted from Mr. Ewing's official report to Congress, will be found interesting:—
“Thus, it appears that the deposits of gold, wherever found, are the property of the United States. Those, however, which are known to exist upon the lands of individuals are of small comparative importance; by far the larger part being upon unclaimed public lands. Still, our information respecting them is yet extremely limited. What we know, in general, is that they are of great extent and extraordinary productiveness, even though rudely wrought. The gold is found sometimes in masses, the largest of which brought to the Mint weighed 89 oz. They are generally equal to the standard of our coin in purity; and their appearance is that of a metal forced into the fissures and cavities of the rocks in a state of fusion. Some masses, however, are flattened, apparently by pressure, and scratched, as if by attrition in a rough surface. One small mass which was exhibited, had
In a mercantile point of view, the discoveries of quicksilver are scarcely less interesting than those of the precious metals. We are informed by this same authority, that—
“The deposit of quicksilver known to exist in California is a sulphuret of mercury, or nativeranché, to which the title is properly valid; and since the United States took possession of the country, an attempt has been made to acquire title to the mine by denouncement. This proceeding is, for the reasons that I have already given, invalid. It therefore remains for Congress to determine whether they will relinquish or assert the title of the United States to this mine.”
From the news received up to the 31st of January, it appears that, owing to the interior being flooded by the melting of the snows of the Sierra Nevada and other mountains, the numerous roads and ways of approach to the gold region had become nearly all impassable. The consequence was, that no gold came down; and, what with the deficiency of supply, the continual drain of gold exported (chiefly to Chili, Sydney, and the Atlantic states), and the large sums expended in land speculations and in building, there existed in San Francisco a general scarcity of money without a parallel in any commercial country. This scarcity was all but universal. There did not seem to be more than sufficient money in the place to pay for the ordinary supplies of existence; and the few who had money were very naturally, and with just reason, reluctant to part with it. Great distrust prevailed.
The rates of interest were such as in England appears preposterous. The old rate of 10 per cent. a-month was becoming fast exploded; 12 1/2 and 15 per cent. per month, on security of real estate, was getting common; and 1 per cent. per day discount on notes was allowed; though very few negociations of the latter class were taking place, money-lenders requiring the security of real property of the most ample kind.
Lumber had fallen from $400 to $90 and $100 per 1,000 feet. Flour was down from $30 to $40, which it reached a few weeks previous, to $13 and $14 per sack.
It is supposed that large sums in gold had accumulated in the mining districts, and the reports of a few persons who had found their way down from some of the “diggins” were favourable. There was no scarcity of provisions in any part of the mining districts.
The city of Sacramento had been flooded for three weeks previously. The streets were navigated by boats; and about 8,000 to 10,000 of the inhabitants had left the town, and were living in tents pitched on a spit of dry land between the city and Sutter's Fort. The country around the city was one sea of water. For sixty miles below it, the eye rested on little else than water, within the range of the horizon, on both sides of the river. It was the same above the city. The destruction of property had been considerable. For twenty miles, the banks of the Sacramento were strewn with the carcasses of drowned horned cattle; and the squatters all along its banks were confined to their houses, or rather cabins, or to a foot or two of mud by their doors. The scene of desolation defies description.
The flood had caused a complete suspension of business in Sacramento; and, what was more deplorable, an almost total suspension of payments. A correspondent of one of the papers writes to this effect:—
“The present state of matters in general stands something in this way: many of the merchants in San Francisco have over-speculated in land, buildings, and other promising objects of profit. The dealers in the interior towns imitated the merchants; but they not only speculated in land, but they also over-bought goods, particularly lumber and flour, beyond their means. Now, the time of payment for the goods has arrived, and the immediate consequences are manifest enough. The dealer, because he added a speculative game of
“The present pressure on the money-market is increased by a renewed demand for land lots in the town of Benicia, which was allowed ‘to waste its sweetness on the desert air’ for the last eight months unnoticed. The site of this town is only thirty-five miles from San Francisco, across the Bay. It is now attempted to puff it into favour, as being a more eligible port than San Francisco. If the speculators had begun their operations before they allowed San Francisco to fill its port with a fleet of merchantmen unequalled out of Europe and the Atlantic states; before San Francisco became a large town, extending, as it now does, over a space of three miles; and before many millions of dollars were invested in property in the town; and before large sums were expended in improving its harbour—then Benicia might have been made something of; now I think the attempt is too late.”
Advices to the 1st of February state that the wet weather had nearly put a stop to business. The inundation of the Sacramento had subsided. At Sonorian camps much gold had been found, one entire piece weighing upwards of 23 lb. It was reported that a piece of nearly 85 lb. had been picked up. Vessels continued to arrive at the rate of from six to twelve each day. Prices for everything had ruled rather
The most interesting event in the transactions of the United States Congress, in reference to California, was the introduction of a series of resolutions into the Senate by Mr. Elby. These resolutions proposed an amicable arrangement of all the controverted topics between the free and slave states. The first maintained the admission of California into the American Union, free from any restriction on the exclusion or introduction of slavery within its limits. In the second resolution, it was provided that territorial government should be established by Congress in the territories acquired from Mexico, without the imposition of any condition on the subject of slavery. The third and fourth resolutions contended that the Western boundary of Texas should be fixed on the Rio del Norte, from its mouth to the mouth of the Sabine. The fifth and sixth asserted that slavery ought not to be abolished in the districts of Columbia, during the existence of the institution of Maryland, without the consent of the people of the district, and a just compensation to the owners of the slaves; and that the slave-trade, under certain conditions, should be abolished within the federal districts, as repugnant to the common feelings of mankind. In the two final resolutions, it was urged that provision should be made by Congress for the more effectual restitution of slaves in any state or territory; and that Congress had no power to prohibit the trade in slaves between the several states: that being an arrangement to be decided, according to the principles of the constitution, by the
The Hon. Mr. King, late a member of Congress, from Georgia, and who was sent to California last spring by the President, on a special mission, for the purpose of examining and closely investigating all matters of interest in that region, in treating of the population in his report, assumes, as a minimum, that San Francisco has 25,000 inhabitants, which number will be doubled during the present year. Sacramento city, which in April, 1849, had only 100 inhabitants, has now 10,000. He estimates the export of gold, for 1850, at $30,000,000; and he considers the amount hitherto collected as small, compared with what it will be, when scientific and skilful miners commence their operations to that extent which the capabilities of the country will admit.
THE END.
F. Shoberl, Jun., Printer to H.R.H. Prince Albert, Rupert St., Haymarket