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MAIN STREET IN LOS ANGELES
LOS ANGELES
IN THE SUNNY SEVENTIES
A FLOWER FROM THE GOLDEN LAND
BY LUDWIG LOUIS SALVATOR
Translated by Marguerite Eyer Wilbur
Introduction by Phil Townsend Hanna
BRUCE McCALLISTER
Los Angeles, 1929
Copyright, 1929, by Jake Zeitlin
900 copies of Los Angeles in the Sunny Seventies—A Flower From the Golden Land have been printed for Jake Zeitlin by Bruce McCallister in Los Angeles, the work being finished in September, A.D. 1929. The illustrations are reproduced from the first edition (Prag, 1878). The title page decoration is by Raymond Winters.
“EL PUEBLO” came of age between dawn and dusk on the 5th day of September, in the year of our Lord, 1876, and of the Independence of the United States of America, exactly the one-hundredth. At two o'clock in the afternoon, more or less, at a tiny settlement then and since known as Lang's Station, sequestered in the depths of Soledad Cañon, Charles F. Crocker drove the golden spike that completed the Southern Pacific Railroad and gave to Los Angeles its first all-rail contact with the Atlantic Seaboard. The golden spike and the silver hammer with which it was driven were the gift of an enterprising jeweler of El Pueblo, and the event was properly celebrated that evening at a Lucullian banquet at Union Hall. Inspired, no doubt, by a liberal indulgence in Don Mateo Keller's finest vintages, of which there was an ample supply, a local editor delivered himself of the following opinion:
“The road will prove the open sesame to a region incalculably
“rich in the precious metals; and, through the influence it will ex-
“ert in stimulating their production, its completion will be felt in
“the commerce of the whole world....We can take a legitimate
“pride in our young commonwealth's ability to undertake and
“carry to completion a work of such magnitude. We have built it
“in less time than was consumed in the construction of the Penn-
“sylvania Central by the great State of Pennsylvania, and we have
“done it too in a season when all the money markets in the world,
“from Vienna to London, were perturbed and in a distrustful
“mood.”
Extravagant and euphemistic as these assertions may have seemed to the more conservative-minded then, they were actually both veracious and warranted. The completion of the Southern Pacific was the most important event in the growth of Los Angelesmestizos, to found a city upon the banks of the Río Porciúncula.
Into the oblivion of things past had gone the slothful days of the Spanish occupation and the predatory and equally meretricious era of the gold-rush. The first seventy-five years of California's existence as a civilized province was as beautiful, from the viewpoint of abstract æstheticism, as the golden years of Greece and Rome, but the period similarly, was a decadent one. It was foredoomed to vanish. From practical considerations its people had contributed nothing to the advancement of culture or the economic betterment of the land they had settled upon.
The prevailing attitude was one of procrastination. Nature was beneficent and the necessaries of life were abundant and at their very elbows. In possession of such leisure other nations and peoples have developed arts and crafts that have excited the admiration of the world. But not Californians. Deeper and deeper they sank in the vice of their indolence; more and more did they take from their land, and less and less did they put into it.
The advent of gold-days merely intensified the tempo of the “taking.” The change was simply one of degree, and the economic aspect became worse. Men gutted the earth of its riches and dissipated their new-found wealth on a thousand inconsequential baubles. Fortunately the mad debauch of a hundred years was in its last convulsion. A transvaluation of values was imminent.
THE “sunny seventies” brought the dawn of a new day for Southern California. Into remote places the word had gone of its undeniable advantages. Miners in their infrequent letters interspersed references to the fruitfulness of the land and the salubrity of the climate among the chronicles of their tribulations and their triumphs;
And so they were coming to Southern California, a slow and resolute current of them. The Senator, the Orizaba, and the Ancon were discharging a constant human cargo at Wilmington and Santa Monica. And they were coming, too, by stage, and by stage-and-rail where such transport was the best available. The Middle West and the Mississippi Valley were contributing their quotas; the late Southern Confederation now convalescing from the scars of war bid reluctant farewell to its favorite sons and daughters who sought a new dispensation in a new milieu; New England, sterile from a century and a half of heavy bearing, was prominently represented; even the Old World had heard the siren lure, and the sturdy Norse, the thrifty Teuton, and the irrepressible Gaul could be distinguished among the multitude that trod Los Angeles streets.
The trickling stream became a tide of sizeable proportions when the Southern Pacific was completed and the hitherto occult call had become articulate through the broadcasting of organized information about the resources and possibilities in this newest of lands.
The settlers of the “sunny seventies” had no illusions. Elsewhere they had learned the first principles of social economics, though I hardly think they knew them by that name. They knew, for instance, that land must be cultivated; that there must be a “giving” as well as a “taking,” a sowing as well as a reaping. They were acquainted with toil and respected it. The Los Angeles Express, on July 8, 1876, remarked:
“What Los Angeles wants is the right kind of population and
“plenty of it. With that we shall soon build up one of the most
It was true. Los Angeles did need “the right kind” of settlers, and it was getting them. There was a new spirit in the air. Industry had displaced indolence; enterprise and thrift had been substituted for eternal diversion and profligacy. The Spanish-Californians gazed upon the scene with a contempt for those who would so far demean themselves as to work, but the transformation was progressing and no human hand could stop it.
Great ranchos began to slip from the grasp of the original grantees, who no longer were competent to cope with the changing environment. Fruits and cereals were bountifully produced on lands that hitherto had known nought but thundering herds, wantonly slaughtered by the thousands for their hides and tallow.
And, strange to relate, for the first time in the annals of California, land began to have a value. The values were ridiculous, of course, judged from the standards of the present, but that it had a worth was a portentous sign—a sign that it had inherent potentialities and merited conservation and nurture. And there was abroad a feeling, not yet fully sublimated into a public consciousness despite the perfervid editorial utterances of seven Los Angeles newspapers, that Southern California had a Destiny!
Despite the communal industry, there existed no slavery to the land, or to business. Work, it was recognized, was a necessity, but diversion was likewise. It was this temperateness, this realization that work and play, drink and food, rest and reflection, all have their related places in the cosmic scheme of things, that made the “sunny seventies” the most glorious decade in all Los Angeles' history. There was liberty and tolerance without restrictive prohibitions, freedom of action and thought between the broad pillars of public decency and community welfare. The Round House was as popular of a Sunday as the churches and none came under the
Nor was one ostracized if, basket-lunch on arm, he hied himself to the station of the Los Angeles and Independence Railroad to embark upon one of the company's two daily trains for Santa Monica, there to disport himself. So popular a holiday was this that on one occasion eleven cars were required to transport the festive-bound that presented themselves!
ONTO this scene there came in the very year of 1876, Ludwig Salvator, Archduke of Austria. Salvator was the son of Leopold II, last Grand Duke of Tuscany, and had been born in Florence on August 4, 1847. As a youth he developed a veritable passion for travel and natural science. Unlike so many noblemen of similar estate, he rejected the pomp and circumstance of court life and turned his attention to scholarly pursuits. Of the living languages he spoke twelve. Until he was twelve years old he lived in Florence, and from 1859 to 1870 in Rome. From there he started a series of voyages that took him into virtually every country in the world and resulted in a series of valuable monographs on the various peoples whom he visited. Later he took up residence on the Island of Mallorca, whence he continued his journeys. He was commander of the 58th regiment of Austrian infantry, and in 1889 was named a member of the Imperial Austrian Academy of Sciences and the Bohemian Academy of Sciences. Early in the '80s his geographical studies won the esteem of the Royal Geographical Society of Great Britain, which elected him an honorary member, of whom there were at that time but eight others among a total membership of some 3500 Fellows. Salvator's books ranged, in size, from small duodecimos such as his Eine Blume aus dem
Goldenen Lande oder Los Angeles to mammoth parchment-bound folios such as Sommertage auf Ithaka, and all were devoted to some point of geographical interest. Many of them dealt with the isolated and little known islands of the Mediterranean and Aegean. In the main they are scientific to the point of being repellent and virtually all are accompanied by largefolding maps in color, and numerous drawings, all of which the author made himself.
It is impossible to present an accurate bibliography of Salvator's works here, due to the modesty that led him to omit his name from many of them. Thirty-five volumes, however, have been identified, and there are six more in existence which doubtless came from his pen but for which there is no conclusive identification. Salvator started writing in 1873, producing in that year two books, Der Djebel Esdmun, and Levkoskia; Die Haupstadt von Cypern. As the years followed he produced one or more volumes almost every year until shorly before his death, which occurred in the Castle of Brendes, near Prague, in the middle of October, 1915.
Among his many published books are, besides those above mentioned: Eine Jachtreise in die Syrten (1874); Eine Spazierfahrt im Golf von Korinth (1876); Die Balearen in Wort und Bild (1878); Eine Blume aus dem Goldenen Lande oder Los Angeles (1878); Die Karavanenstrasse von Aegypten nach Syrien (1878); Die Serben an der Adria (1879); Hobarttown Oder Sommerfrische in den Antipoden (1886); Um die Welt ohne zu wollen (1886, 4th Ed.); Paxos und Antipaxos im Jonischen Meere (1887); Los Angeles in Sudkalifornien (1887); Benzert (1897); Cannosa (1897); Die Cyparischen Inseln (1897); Lose Blätter aus Abbazia (1897); Alboran (1898); Ustica (1898); Bougie (1899); Die Insel Giglio (1900); Ramleh als Winteraufenthalt (1900); Helgoland (1901, 2nd Ed.); Sommertage auf Ithaka (1903); Zante (1904); Eine Jachtreise an den Kusten von Tripolitanien und Tunisien (1905); Märchen aus Mallorca (1905); Rondayes de Mallorca (1905); Spanien in Wort und Bild (1905); Wintertage auf Ithaka (1905);Columbretes (1905); Das was verschwinden (1905); Einige Worte über Kaymenen (1905); Der Golf von Buccari:-Porto Re (1905); Bizerta und seine Zukunst (1905); Schiftbruch (1905); Katalina (1905); über die Durchstich der Landenge von Stagns (1906); Parga (1907); Anmerkungen über Levkas (1908); Die Felsenfesten Mallorcas (1910); Einiges über Weltausstellungen (1911); Sommerträumerein am meeresufer (1912); Hafen von Porto-Palma in der Bucht von Palma de Mallorca (1913).
In Salvator's formidable array of opera are to be found the method of the scientist and the hand of the scholar. Thorough observation, painstaking research, that “infinite capacity for taking pains” that is said to signify genius—all are there. But in two in particular there are, moreover, additional qualities that set them far ahead of the main bulk of his work. His Die Karavanenstrasse von Aegypten nach Syrien which appeared in German first in 1878, was regarded so highly in England that it was put into English three years later.
The other and, perhaps, the most important of all of Salvator's studies, Eine Blume aus dem Goldenen Lande oder Los Angeles, appears here in the first full and complete translation from the German, by Marguerite Eyer Wilbur. “Eine Blume,” as it has come to be familiarly known by students of California history and collectors of Californiana, was the fruit of Salvator's visit to Southern California in 1876. With the characteristic Teutonic flair for details, Salvator spent the winter of '76 in and about Los Angeles, interviewing its principal citizens and studying the Spanish and English histories of California which he assimilated with as much ease as he did the literature in his native tongue. He journeyed extensively and his facile pen was as busy in drawing the intriguing compositions his eyes fell upon as it was in recording the observations that were later to be made the basis of his book.
The text of his work reveals that he was as enthusiastic as the most ardent native about this region. It had its ludicrous aspects to
“It is an exalted privilege to write for a full-hearted, intelligent,
“country-loving people; to trace the characters or truth and hon-
“est impulse, giving the leaves to the iron Sibyl who presses them
“to her breast and flings them out in multiplied thousands to the
“gale.”
Salvator saw this and countless other manifestations of the current immaturity. But he saw more; he saw the germ of a great community, and growth and prosperity somewhere behind the misty veil of the future. And when he wrote, he had the grace and forbearance to overlook those shortcomings that, as a target for satire, might have made his book a best seller. Instead of making of this section of America an object of ridicule as did so many of his comtemporaries, he weighed all the evidence, presented all the facts that were pertinent, and concluded that Southern California held more than promises for the colonist. How many of his countrymen were moved to immigrate to this territory through Salvator's book it is impossible, of course, to say, but there can be no doubt that it proved an influence of vast import in augmenting the existing German colony. That it was avidly read in Europe is indicated by the fact that it was reprinted in 1885 under the title Los Angeles in Sudkalifornien.
Los Angeles in the Sunny Seventies, as “Eine Blume” has been rechristened (and quite appropriately, too) in this English version, is, in fact, the history of Southern California in the transition period, quite as essential to a proper knowledge of the formative influences that have made a modern commercial Tyre out of a lazy Mexican pueblo, as Bell's Reminiscences of a Ranger, or Newmark's Sixty Years in California.
The preparation of the present translation of “Eine Blume” has been the labor of many enthusiastic hearts and hands, and the publisher and translator beg this occasion to acknowledge the coöperation of Everett Perry, Los Angeles City Librarian, who made the original German text available; Miss Laura Cooley, of the Los Angeles Public Library, who has toiled indefatigably in the clearing up of questionable historical references; Mrs. A. H. Keidel, whose aid in the rendering of involved German passages has been invaluable; C. Palmer Connor, of the Title Insurance and Trust Company, who graciously assisted in the identification of obscure geographical points; Arthur Ellis, Robert Ernest Cowan, and the multitude of others who, through their whole-hearted encouragement, have made the work a genuine joy.
PHIL TOWNSEND HANNA
Los Angeles, California.
June 21, 1929.
A FLOWER FROM THE GOLDEN LAND
PAGE
1 General Conditions
2 Climate
3 Flora and Fauna
4 Population
5 Glimpses of the Past and Present
6 The Indians
7 The Chinese Question
8 Houses
9 Agriculture
10 Irrigation
11 Fences
12 Miscellaneous Products
13 Land Values
14 Bee and Silk Culture
15 Cattle-Raising
16 Hunting and Fishing
17 Mining
18 Industries
19 Trade
20 Steamship, Railway, and Postal Service
21 Hints to Settlers
22 Some Statistics on Wealth in the County
23 Early History
24 Los Angeles
25 A Drive along the Los Angeles River
26 Rancho de La Laguna
27 The Fertile San Gabriel Valley
28 The Most Important Settlements in the County
29 The Country in and about Santa Monica
30 Wilmington 183
HEALTH RESORTS are becoming daily more and more popular. With the approach of the winter season there is always a heavy migration toward the south, a migration that occurs not only in Europe, but also across the ocean. Thousands journey annually from the frigid climate of the northeastern states to the milder lands of Florida or Southern California. However, there are many who cannot afford to migrate like birds of passage and who are thus forced to see their families endure the harsh, unpleasant winters of their own country. To these, notwithstanding, an extraordinary opportunity stands open; to pioneer to a more favorable country where health and prosperity beckon. For this purpose no land offers greater advantages and is better adapted for European migration than California; a land that combines fertility of soil and opportunity for industrial development, with a healthful climate; a land where harsh winters and hot summers are unknown.
Of late, much has been done to promote migration to America. Many pioneers, however, remain in the already thickly-populated eastern states, coming there often without means, and frequently with little ambition. These often return home disappointed. Notwithstanding, vast opportunities are to be found in the far West. But above all else to America must be taken industry and good will; these are required in far greater measure than in our own land. Given these two qualities it is a comparatively simple matter to make a good living, although the possession of some capital is of far more benefit than in Europe, since it paves the way for acquiring considerable wealth. My intention, in the following description of this glorious corner of California, is to show its possibilities, and reveal how readily results can be accomplished. If, by so doing, I shall have assisted anyone in the founding of a pleasant, happy home, I shall be satisfied. The data used in this account
have been collected partly on the ground, partly procured for me through local friends, especially Dr. Vincent Gelcich, and partly taken from various periodicals in California. Among the latter are the monthly journal, HOMES IN CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC COAST ( San Francisco); the HERALD NEWSPAPER for 1876; and articles on Southern California written in 1875 for the Anaheim Gazette by W. R. Olden. Added to these are the following volumes: Major Ben C. Truman, SEMI-TROPICAL CALIFORNIA, ( S.F., 1874); Charles Nordhoff, CALIFORNIA FOR HEALTH, PLEASURE, AND RESIDENCE, ( New York, 1875); John S. Hittell, THE RESOURCES OF CALIFORNIA, ( S.F., 1875); Mary Cone, TWO YEARS IN CALIFORNIA, ( Chicago, 1876 ).
In conclusion it should be observed that the conditions as represented refer to the time of my visit there in 1876, a comment that is especially pertinent in view of the rapid development throughout America, and especially in California.
Zindis near Triest, September, 1878
GENERAL CONDITIONS
THE name Southern California usually refers not to the southern tip of the peninsula that is still under Mexican rule, but to territory in California, extending from the thirty-sixth parallel down to the southern boundary of the United States. Southern California contains 7 ducal states or counties: San Diego, San Bernardino, Los Angeles, Ventura (an abbreviation for San Buenaventura), Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, and Kern Counties. With the single exception of the latter, the Spanish Missions
Of all these counties, none has been so favored in every way by nature as that of Los Angeles—the subject of this sketch—which can most suitably be called A Flower from a Golden Land.
With an area of some 5,600 square miles—about 3,600,000 acres—it is bounded on the north by Kern County; this line runs due east and west for approximately 70 miles. On the east, where it touches the county of San Bernardino, the boundary line stretches almost directly north and south, being 100 miles or more in length. Off toward the southwest along a coastline of approximately 100 miles lies the Pacific. On the west, the boundary-line is formed by Ventura County; this line runs northeast for 15 miles and northwest for 45 miles. The major portion of this county thus forms a parallelogram measuring, roughly, 70 miles from east to west and about 60 miles from north to south. This has a triangular section projecting out from its southeastern corner, which has a northern line of 70 miles and an eastern line of 40 miles, and which adjoins the county of San Diego.
Approximately 35 miles in a southerly direction from this imaginary boundary-line rises the sharply-defined mountain range known as the Sierra Madre which, as it stretches off toward the north, forms the San Fernando, San Gabriel, and San Bernardino ranges. These, varying in height from 3,000 to 9,000 feet, form a bulwark which is virtually unbroken except where, at one point, the latter ranges are cut at an elevation of 4,676 feet by the Cajon Pass.
These run in an easterly and southeasterly direction paralleling in a general way the coast, lying, on an average, about 33 miles inland from the ocean. They form two main watersheds; the northern, stretching from the Santa Clara Valley which is watered in its northern part by the Santa Clara River down to the Mojave Desert, is the mining district of the county; and the southern, a valley 36 miles long and 75 miles wide stretching off toward the south, which is watered by three rivers, the San Gabriel, the Los Angeles, a tributary, and the Santa Ana, that forms the backbone of the agricultural wealth of the county of Los Angeles.
The coast-line of the county extends from Punta Maga
Cities and towns located in the county are the following: Los Angeles, Anaheim, San Gabriel, El Monte, Wilmington, Downey-City, Spadra, Santa Ana, Westminster, Compton, San Fernando, Florence, Richland, Tustin-City, and San Juan Capistrano. With the exception of the latter, which was the site of the mission, these towns are of recent growth.
CLIMATE
COMPARATIVELY few regions have a finer climate than the long stretch of coastal country lying within the confines of Santa Barbara, Los Angeles, and San Diego Counties. That of Los Angeles, lying as it does between them, is especially balmy. Indeed, the climate in Southern California—this refers to the southern part of the county lying below the Sierras—is such that it is surpassed by no other region in the new world. Extremes of heat and cold are unknown; it is a land of perpetual spring. In winter, the days are invariably comfortably warm; the nights, in summer, are delightfully cool,—blankets, as a matter of fact, being essential at night throughout the summer season. That it is possible to work outdoors in shirtsleeves from January to December and that there is no month of the year when fruit does not ripen or flowers bloom is adequate proof of the equability of the climate.
The thermometer fluctuates between 52° in January and 75° in July, a variation of 23°. The average annual temperature is 64°, with a mean variation of 10° to 12° above or below, in summer or winter. During the fall and winter the average temperature is 52°-54°; in spring and summer, 74°-75°; in some years, however, it is as low as 60°-70°.
The following is a compilation of observations made in Los Angeles, San Gabriel, and Anaheim:
TEMPERATURE IN LOS ANGELES IN 1875, AS PUBLISHED IN THE HERALD
TEMPERATURE IN LOS ANGELES IN THE YEAR 1871 COMPILED BY MR. BRODERICK
THE FOLLOWING TABLE OF TEMPERATURES WAS COMPILED BY
MR. LOUIS LEWIN IN LOS ANGELES FROM AUGUST, 1875, TO
JULY, 1876, AND IS HEREIN REPRODUCED WITH
HIS PERMISSION
THERMOMETRICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE IN ANAHEIM OVER A PERIOD OF EIGHTEEN MONTHS, BEGINNING JANUARY 1, 1874. COMPILED BY EDWIN S. SAXTON
These give the lowest temperature in the preceding night, the highest in the day, as well as that at 7 a.m. and 7 p.m. These also indicate the exceptional frosts of the year 1875—the lowest temperatures in twenty years.
TEMPERATURE IN SAN GABRIEL IN THE YEAR 1869 COMPILED BY B. C. TRUMAN
METEOROLOGICAL REPORT FROM ANAHEIM FOR 13 MONTHS
(FROM JULY 1, 1872, TO JULY 31, 1873).
FURNISHED BY FRANCIS S. MILES
From observations made at 8 a.m., 1 p.m., and 6 p.m. July, 1872. HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry bulb 7.1° to 6°. THERMOMETER: Average temperature 72 3/4° high 83°, low 66°. For 5 days the temperature was above 80° at 1 p.m. Bright sunshine 30 days; cloudy and rainy, 1 day.
AUGUST, 1872. HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry bulb, 8°. THERMOMETER: 72 3/4°, high 94°, low 68°. For 9 days the temperature was over 80° at 1 p.m. and 2 days over 83°. Bright sunshine 20 days; sunshine and clouds, 10 days; 1 day cloudy.
SEPTEMBER, 1872. HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry bulb 8.1° to 10°. THERMOMETER: Average temperature 74°, high 90°, low 62°. For 5 days the thermometer was over 80°, and 1 day over 83° at 1 p.m. Bright sunshine for 28 days; sunshine and clouds, 1 day; cloudy, 1 day.
OCTOBER, 1872. HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry bulb 8 1/3°. THERMOMETER: Average temperature 69 1/4°, high 96°, low 58°. For 4 days the temperature was over 80° at 1 p.m., and on 1 day over 83°. Bright sunshine 27 days; sunshine and clouds, 1 day.
NOVEMBER, 1872. HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry bulb 11 7/8°. THERMOMETER: Average temperature 68°, high 85°, low 55°. For 6 days the temperature was below 60° at 8 a.m. Bright sunshine 26 days; sunshine and clouds 3 days; stormy 1 day.
DECEMBER, 1872. HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry bulb 6.1°to 6°. THERMOMETER: Average daily temperature 62°, high 77°, low 50°. Bright sunshine 17 days; sunshine and
JANUARY, 1873. HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry bulb 7 7/8°. THERMOMETER: Average daily temperature 63 3/4°, high 80°, low 50° for 6 days the temperature was below 55° at 8 a.m. Bright sunshine, 19 days; sunny and cloudy, 8 days; 4 days, entirely cloudy; rainy, 2 days; heavy winds, 2 days.
FEBRUARY, 1873. HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry bulb 4 1/2°. THERMOMETER: Average temperature 57 1/3°, high 75°, low 44°. For 15 days the temperature was below 55° at 8 a.m. Bright sunshine for 7 days; sunny and cloudy 13 days; cloudy the entire day for 8 days; stormy, 9 days.
MARCH, 1873. HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry bulb 6 3/8°. THERMOMETER: Average temperature 64 1/8°, high 81°, low 54°. For 2 days the temperature was under 55° at 8 a.m. Bright sunshine for 12 days; sunshine and clouds 13 days; stormy and rainy for 6 consecutive days. Strong winds 2 days.
APRIL, 1873. HYGROMETER: Average variation between wet and dry bulb 9 2/3°. THERMOMETER: Average temperature 64 3/4°, high 87°, low 48°. For 4 days the temperature was below 55° at 8 a.m. and for 4 days over 80° at 1 p.m. Bright sunshine for 21 days; sunshine and clouds 8 days; entirely cloudy 1 day.
MAY, 1873. HYGROMETER: Average daily variation between wet and dry bulb 7 1/4°. THERMOMETER: Average daily temperature 65 1/2°, high 86°, low 57°; on 2 days the temperature was over 80° at 1 p.m. Bright sunshine for 16 days; sunshine and clouds 9 days; 6 consecutive overcast days.
JUNE, 1873. HYGROMETER: Average daily variation between wet and dry bulb 7 1/6°. THERMOMETER: Average temperature 70°, high 91°, low 60° for 5 days the temperature exceeded 80° at 1 p.m. Bright sunshine for 30 days.
JULY, 1873. HYGROMETER: Average daily variation between wet and dry bulb 8 1/4°. THERMOMETER: Average temperature 73°,
As this compilation clearly indicates there are more clear days out here than in any other State of the Union. The average estimate is 240 cloudless days a year. Usually, toward the end of April and early in May, light fogs occur over a period of two or three weeks which last until noon. At other times of the year even if the fog occurs occasionally, it is soon dissipated by the sun.
The air which is extremely pure, fresh, and invigorating, is of extraordinary transparency. Distances are very deceptive; the tenderfoot is often surprised at the remoteness of objects that appear fairly close at hand. Mirages are frequently visible. Since the air contains but little electricity, thunderstorms are, as a rule, unknown, except once in a great while during the winter season. Hail is also rarely seen—it never falls during the summer season—and only appears infrequently between the months of February and May. The Northern Lights, moreover, are never visible.
Southern California has no real winter weather, merely a rainy season of about four months duration. The rains commence in November; these, however, are usually light showers and barely suffice to settle the dust for a few days. Heavy rains do not fall until December—generally toward the end of the month. But at this time they transform the land as if by magic. Two or three weeks after the first heavy rains fall, nature blooms with fresh activity, the parched hills wear new cloaks of green, the brown fields flaunt spring grasses and the entire country, by December, is as spring-like as the Eastern States by April and May. In the gardens hyacinths, tuberoses, fuchsias, heliotrope, verbena, and roses appear in full bloom. Ivy and honeysuckle put out young shoots; bees hover over the flowers, whose perfume is carried for some distance by the balmy breezes; butterflies flutter everywhere.
This is the time when the rich earth is worked by plow and
1860-1861
1861-1862
1862-1863
1863-1864
1864-1865
1865-1866
Ice and snow almost never fall on the plains or, when they do, at once melt away. The mountains, on the other hand, are invariably covered with snow in winter. Los Angeles escapes the cold winds that blow in the northern part of the state, since the prevailing northerly and northeasterly winds are barred by the mountains and tempered by passing over the hot inland valleys and deserts in the upper and eastern parts of the county. Fires, while not essential, are often pleasant, especially in the evenings.
By April the rains are usually over, though showers fall now and again as late as May; these, however, do not mitigate the full force of the sun. The dry season lasts from this time on until December. With the ripening of the harvests, this is the richest season of the year. From June until well on into October, the cool dry trade
As the sea-breezes blow in by day, so, too, in the summer season, such cool night-breezes come down from the lofty mountains, that it is impossible to sleep, as already observed, without blankets. One who has experienced the exhausting heat of summer nights in the Eastern States will appreciate what this means. Out here, moreover, the mosquito is seen so seldom that it never proves troublesome.
What causes this exceptional summer climate is the fact that the cool air off the ocean (averaging some 60°) blows in across the mountain ranges paralleling the coast and freshens the warm air rising from the dry and arid valleys in the interior. The dense fog borne in throughout the summer season by the unbroken force of the northwesterly winds that extend above San Francisco as far north as Point Conception and which differentiate the northern from the southern climate do not reach the southern coast. The mists or feathery clouds down here absorb enough warmth to rise. As a result, when the full force of the wind strikes them, they are driven off across the continent, and are carried so high that no
The country is extraordinarily healthful, due to the equability of its climate, to its dry, invigorating air, to the breezes blowing in summer and finally, to its excellent water. The ocean on the one hand and the great desert on the other, the lack of harmful marshlands and swamps, all exclude the possibility of malarial fevers. In summer the breezes bring in pure air off the ocean while the dryness of the atmosphere prevents the putrefaction of refuse. In winter, the rains, especially in the neighborhood of Los Angeles, are quickly absorbed by the porous soil; there is no insidious combination of cold and dampness to cause lung infections. Neither is the summer heat and moisture of such a character as to bring on malaria fevers. Although malaria and lung troubles are responsible for a certain number of deaths out here, yet the rate of mortality is far lower than in other countries. Scarlet fever and diphtheria, which carry off so many in the eastern states, are unknown; cases of sunstroke—because of the dryness of the atmosphere—are also unknown. Epidemics, moreover, are never known to occur. On an average, there are 13 deaths to 1,000 inhabitants. The pure, stimulating air, furthermore, is highly beneficial to invalids who gain
The invalid can find health in Los Angeles; the rich, a life of ease and pleasure in an earthly paridise, devoid of winter cold and summer heat.
Earthquakes occur fairly frequently, usually in August; this is probably why many rich families prefer to live in wooden houses. Of recent earthquakes, three were especially severe. On July 10, 1855, the walls of 26 houses in Los Angeles were cracked by an earthquake. None, however, was destroyed, although several citizens were killed. Another was felt on January 9, 1857; this, which was the most severe, extended from Fort Yuma to Sacramento—a distance of several hundred miles. At this time the Los Angeles river rose from its bed, while in the San Gabriel Valley a crack 7 miles long was opened. At 12:45, on October 8, 1865, occurred another strong shock that affected the coastal valleys from San Luis Obispo to Humboldt Bay.
FLORA AND FAUNA
LOS ANGELES COUNTY, generally speaking, is not rich in native trees. With the exception of the live-oak, the California Roble ( Quercus agrifolia ), which forms groves or little woods on the hills and in the valleys, it is often necessary to travel a considerable distance before encountering plane-trees, the aliso and sycamore ( Platanus racemosa ) which rise so gracefully here and there in the meadows. Often these are young, vigorous, and full of life; again they will be found lying on the ground, dry and rotten from old-age, and blocking the road. Poplars ( Alamo ), cottonwoods ( Populus argentea ), the California horse-chestnut ( Aesculus Californica )—whose nuts are used by the Indians for food—and a species of willow ( Salix rastrata ) are also fairly common. With the exception of these, it is necessary to go far up into the mountains to find large trees; there, however, many trees of great size, particularly conifers, grow. Especially worthy of note is the redwood ( Sequoia sempervirens ) which is frequently found in the coast ranges. It belongs to the species known as the Big Trees of California, which are now ranked as one of the wonders of the world. These are the second in size, and the first in commercial importance, of the Big Trees of California. Of almost equal splendor is the sugar-pine ( Pinus lambertiana ) with its giant needles, in length as long as a shoe. The yellow pine ( Pinus ponderosa ), the Arbor Vitae, the so-called cedar ( Thuya gigantea ) and the white cedar ( Libocedrus decurrens ) are also fairly common.
Various kinds of evergreen shrubs are also found growing rankly on the hillsides and in shadowy valleys such as laurelOreodaphne Californica ), the madroña ( Arbutus menziesii ), the manzanita ( Arctostaphylos glauca ), which lends itself so readily to artistic effects, and the long-leaved and exquisitely green Celastrus obtusata. Eriogonum fasciculatum, and Eremocarpus setigerus, and the Euphorbiacee, are all characteristic of California.Yedra (Rhus toxicodendron ). This plant is somewhat dangerous since contact with the leaf and stalk causes a most irritating eruption of the skin, accompanied by severe inflammation. Down in the vicinity of Los Angeles, particularly in cañons formerly cut by rivers, this plant is often found clinging closely to the trees. The fruit, when cooked, is not harmful. Entirely harmless, too, is the Chlorogalum pomeridianus, whose onion-like bulb when rubbed in water form s a kind of lather that is used to remove dirt.Agave Americana is indigenous as are several varieties of Cereus and Opuntia that resemble them.
Agave Americana is the century-plant;
opuntia, the prickly-pear.
The fields in and about Los Angeles are particularly rich in flowers. Thus in March they appear to be cloaked in red; in April, in blue; while in May they resemble masses of pure gold. The latter may be ascribed to the orange-colored poppy (Eschcholtzia ), which is aptly called Copa de Oro,—cup of gold.
The ocean off this coast is also peculiarly rich in vegetation, sea-weed (Macrocystis pyrifera ), often 200 yards long, being common.
Among important ocean fauna found in California should be mentioned the Teredo navalis, the destructive Limnoria, and the abalone (Haliotis ).
The local waters are also fairly rich in fishes. Of majorStereolepis gigas ), the Sunfish ( Orthagoriscus analis ), the gay-colored ( Labrus pulcher, and the anchovy ( Engraulis mordax and manus ). A flying-fish ( Exocetus Californicus ) is also frequently seen in Californian waters. In the rivers are also many other kinds of fishes; the salmon, Quinnat salmon ( Salmo quinnat ), abundant between November and June; two kinds of trout, the brook trout ( Salar iridea ); and the salmon trout ( Ptychocheilus grandis ).
On the continent, tarantulas are numerous. These creatures live in holes filled with an ingenious kind of lid or cover. Oddly enough, they are often chased and killed by wasps, who then lay eggs on their bodies. Among other deadly insects are such creatures as the scorpion, and, most important of all, the rattlesnake. These, however, have been largely exterminated in the settled regions in and about Los Angeles.
Among birds, one that is peculiarly striking and frequently seen is the scavenger turkey vulture, the so-called Californian Auras (Cathartes aura ), a shining black creature with a head of brilliant red. These are highly esteemed because they consume old refuse. Less common is the road-runner, paisano (Geococcyx Californicus ), who is supposed to kill rattlers. Especially common is the small burrowing owl ( Athene cunicularia ), which has one salient peculiarity: it lives in the same hole as the Spermophilus, and is often seen sitting day after day on a tiny hummock of earth thrown up at the mouth of the hole.Icterus is also indigenous to Southern California; its favorite haunts are brooks where, close to Los Angeles, it may be seen flying back and forth much like the starlings in our own country.Lophortyx Californicus ) and Oreortyx pictus, which are frequently found in the forests.
In the animal kingdom the ground squirrels ( Spermophilus Beecheyi and Douglasii ) are especially worthy of note, primarily because they are so numerous and lend to the landscape soThomomys bulbiforus ), who lives, in the main, underground, gnawing the roots of vegetables and fruit-trees. Another species is the Colorado gopher ( Thomomys fulvus ), which, however, is not so prevalent.
A jumping-rat ( Don Jerboa ), and two kinds of hare, Lepus trowbridgii and Audubonii, as well as the rabbit ( Lepus artemisia ), are indigenous to these regions.
The principal cud-chewing animals are the antelope ( Antilocapra Americana ), which is, unfortunately, rapidly being exterminated, the mountain sheep ( Ovis Montana ) and high up in the Sierras, two kinds of elk, the American Elk ( Cervus Canadensis ), and the Black-tailed Deer ( Cervus Columbianus ).
Among beasts of prey the most important is the puma ( Felis concolor ), a fine-appearing but cowardly animal who roams only after dark. Nomadic in habit, he moves constantly from place to place, except when hiding in the underbrush. He prizes, above all else, young calves. The lynx ( Lynx rufus ), is also frequently encountered up in the mountains, as well as the mountain cat ( Bassaris astuta ) an intelligent, pretty little creature which is often domesticated by the mountaineers.
Coyotes ( Canis Latrans ), animals that howl all night long much like a chorus of jackals, are very numerous and prey omnivorously on poultry, lambs, and young pigs. The latter they are especially skilful in catching, stealing up and surprising them while the sow, wild with rage, pursues the culprit. Travelling, as a rule, in bands, they often attack cows, catching them by their throats. They are born thieves and it is not unusual to have them steal even from a guarded camp. When starving they will even eat the ropes, containing tallow, which are used to tie horses; however, they will not touch those woven from hair. For this reason the early Californians used the latter kind of rope exclusively for this purpose.
A small weasel with a white neck ( Mustela ) is often seen in and around Los Angeles. In the mountains live two species of bear, the cinnamon-brown, and the grizzly ( Ursus horribilis ). The latter, who is in the habit of roving at night, goes out after swine as well as many kinds of roots, fruits, and vegetables. Owing to the zealousness of hunters who wage constant warfare on this trouble-some neighbor, he is daily growing rarer. Sea-lions ( Otaria stelleri ), on the contrary, thrive near the shore, being protected by a law that prohibits shooting them within twenty miles of the coast. Groups of fifty or more are often seen swimming, with the swiftness of dolphins, around a ship or travelling by the hundreds up and down the coast, their deep bellowing mingling with the roaring of the waves. Sea-otter ( Enhydra marina ) as well are common on the coast; they are particularly fond of abaloneHaliotis ). Nor is it unusual, when sitting on the beach, to see far off in the distance, a thin column of water being spouted by a whale, especially in the vicinity of Monterey Bay.
POPULATION
THE county of Los Angeles has a population of some 30,000 inhabitants. This population is decidedly mixed, for people have streamed into this paradise from all over the world. Of this number about a quarter are Californians—a term used to designate those of Spanish descent as well as those who have intermarried with Indians. All Anglo-Saxons and, in fact, all settlers from other States in the Union are called, on the other hand, Americans.
The development of this country dates back only to 1828-9 and 1832.
As a general thing, the inhabitants of California seem stronger and in better health than those in other States, while travellers who have come out from the East are quite surprised by the healthful
The name “Pikes,” a term applied to certain families who have come out from the southeastern states, merits particular mention. The name comes from Pike County in Missouri, the home of many of the first Californian settlers. Most of them are engaged in raising cattle, which they understand thoroughly. Though hospitable and loyal even toward their enemies, they are, however, not progressive like the other Americans. The inhabitants out here are fond of cracking jokes at their expense, whether true or fictitious. The negro population is about a hundred; several in Los Angeles are very rich, although they are not much in evidence.
The language most commonly used, at least by the Americans, is English; however, it is mixed with many Californianisms, mostly words of Spanish origin, which are in general usage. Many odd expressions that have originated in mining-camps are also heard.
Every kind of religious belief is represented, but these will be discussed later when the churches of Los Angeles are enumerated. The majority of the population is, however, Catholic. In 1769 the Catholic mission of San Gabriel was established; ten years later San Juan Capistrano was founded; in 1797 that of San Fernando and, considerably later, Los Angeles.
Throughout California the schools receive great attention; in this respect California ranks well up with the other states in the Union. While many of the schools were established some time ago, yet they keep well abreast of the times. The following data will indicate how rapidly the schools are growing. On July 1, 1873, Los Angeles County had 6,101 school children in 39 districts (in 1866,
The population, on the whole, is fond of outings, the lack of rain during the summer season affording opportunity for innumerable picnics. One of the most popular summer diversions is sea-bathing, especially down at Santa Monica. Of this, however, more will be said later. Many of the more energetic citizens go over to Santa Catalina, which lies about 30 miles off the coast, for this purpose. In the cities one of the favorite diversions is billiards.
GLIMPSES OF THE PAST AND PRESENT
THE CALIFORNIANS
ONE day one of the early Californians, an idle and talkative old fellow who knew this El Dorado in its halcyon days, during the Spanish and Mexican régime, said to me, “The Spanish colony in Los Angeles is now like a devastated grain field.” No one will deny that even if the material prosperity dates from the day when the stars and stripes were unfurled, yet the true poetry of California is inseparably linked with the Spanish element. The patriarchal mode of life—which is now entirely past—that centered around the old missions, was essentially a happy one. Since settlers were comparatively few in this vast country, they lived like kings in their own domains, bound together only by mutual interests. Land having very little value, vast land-grants were made by the government to individuals. If more land was required it was given merely for the asking.
Whenever the lord and master of one of these establishments traveled, he was always welcomed at private homes and supplied, free of charge, with board and lodging. Not only was heranchero consisted only of a blanket, in which he rolled himself to rest, a horse-hair rope for picketing his horse, and a lasso. In a small bag fastened to his saddle was some pinole —corn ground between stones and roasted—which, mixed with sugar, made a good breakfast. Whenever his horse showed signs of giving out, he would lasso another in the nearest field, repeating this until he reached his destination.
The early Californians supported themselves by raising cattle; for recreation they went hunting. On Sundays, both gentlemen and ladies formed in an impressive cavalcade and went to church. The even tenor of their daily lives, however, was frequently interrupted by festivals. These usually centered about the old missions and were semi-religious and semi-secular in character. To attend these many came from a distance of 50 miles or more, and re mained one or two weeks. The mission fathers, who had vast cattle lands, acted as hosts to the entire countryside. In this way a firm bond was formed between priest and parishioners, which materially strengthened the community spirit. The simple needs of these people were supplied from their own ranches; meat, milk, and cheese were furnished by the cattle, while on their own vast acres the grain, which was ground between stones by the Indian women, was raised. On the larger ranches, moreover, the Indians who had been taught by the mission fathers were employed at such manual work as tanning the hides of sheep and cattle to be used for garments, blanket weaving, and other labor. To secure such luxuries as tea, coffee, or women's clothing, hides, horns, and melted tallow were often sold to Yankee traders. Much of the richest land, however, lay fallow; few trees were planted, and only a few fields—most were used primarily for pasturage—were placed
Those noble traits that distinguished them in the times past have been retained, even down to the present. Among these was selfrestraint and moderation, especially in drinking, generosity, and a Spartan-like way of enduring physical hardship. At the same time, these Californians were good-natured, pleasant, and so kind toward their subordinates that they became warmly attached to their masters. Skillful and tactful in their handling of men, they were also noted for their hospitality, their friendliness, and their dignity.
But as business men they were unsuccessful, for they desired merely to live in peace and comfort. With the influx of Americans into California the value of cattle soared; owners of herds, finding themselves rich overnight, spent lavishly. Much of this wealth went into ostentatious luxuries; saddles studded with gold and silver, golden stirrups and spurs, reins with silver chains, costly lace bedspreads, and elaborate silk dresses for the ladies.
Since the Spanish settlers who migrated to California in the days of Spanish rule brought few women with them, many married Indians. The majority of the present-day Californians are the descendants of these marriages. Under the former Spanish and Mexican régimes those of pure Spanish blood alone comprised the local aristocracy. Even now they are the most prominent Californians and number in all about fifteen families. Those of mixed blood, on the contrary, are nick-named “greasers.” Those who came originally from the Mexican province of Sonora are known as “Sonoranians.” The Californians living here prior to the days
The Californians, all in all,—most of whom are the descendants of Spanish-Indian stock—are a healthful, strong people. They have heavy features, mild, pleasant, expressive, black eyes, and smooth hair. In color they are dark; this increases with age, as does their corpulency.
The Spaniards have not clung to their characteristic costume. However, in outfitting their horses, they follow their old customs. Among these is the use of exquisitely wrought Mexican-style high saddles of fine leather with embossed decoration; a saddle-bag, used for carrying a rolled coat or blanket; reins composed of small balls ending in a chain; a whip made of gut strings for urging on their horses, and buckled spurs bent sharply down, which complete the riding equipment of a gentleman. Characteristic of the feminine costume is the use of a kind of shawl or mantilla which is thrown over the left shoulder.
Most Californians live in the country; their chief wealth, even now, is land and cattle. The principal occupation of the lower classes is herding cattle. Their daily routine is rarely varied—they both rise and retire at an early hour. Their food is extremely simple. Beef, especially dried beef ( carne seca is the staple food of the ranchero, together with tortillas, that is, wheat or corn cakes. The chief beverage is tea or coffee with, occasionally, wine. At the close of the evening a few cigarettes are smoked. In every way they are a very cleanly people.
They have many beautiful folk-songs and dance the jota, which is similar to the aragonesa, and the fandango with the greatest enjoyment. The Castilian tongue is usually heard, with the addition, however, of many colloquialisms. Conspicuous among these is their failure to accent certain syllables. For instance, in place of paíis, they say páis, meaning land or country. Their children learn very rapidly and retain their own tongue, while those who associate with them soon learn to speak Spanish.
THE INDIANS
IN the early days there were many Indians in California. When the first census was taken in 1823, there were 100,826. By 1863 there were only 29,300 and now there are probably less than 20,000. It is greatly to the credit of the mission fathers to have been able to civilize these wild Indians and to have taught them, as well as religion, useful industries. Assimilation with the Spaniards who, instead of inciting the Indians to hostility, intermarried with them, accounts for the mixed blood of the Californians. And while even today in the country it is not uncommon for men to marry Indian women, a white woman practically never marries an Indian man. Californian Indians, as a whole, are not malicious and far less warlike than those tribes who live like beasts in the central and eastern parts of America. Between the years 1825-1840, however, the settlers were the victims of a series of attacks.
These Indians of California have large bodies but small hands and feet. The average height of the men is 5 1/2 feet, of the women 4 feet and 10 inches. Physically they are very sturdy. At one time long-lived, they are now becoming strongly addicted to brandy. The women drink as well as the men. This, together with the prevalence of syphilis, which has been brought in by the Europeans, is what has increased their death rate and materially shortened their span of life.
When used—as they are throughout the county—as laborers they are harmless and industrious, although somewhat slow. To counterbalance this they are very cleanly, a trait they have acquired from the old Spanish-Californians. Their huts are made of
The Indians in the vicinity of Los Angeles are known as the Cahinas; those in San Timoteo (about 200 in all) are called the San Juaneños, and are strongly addicted to drink. In the La Jolla Reserve are the San Luiseños; in Kasteki, the Ferdinandiños.
The Southern Californian Indians belong to the Shoshonean tribe, but were usually referred to as Serranos, or mountaineers. Local groups, however, took the name of the nearest mission. Thus, there were the San Fernandiños (San Fernando); the
Gabrieliños (San Gabriel); the Juaneños (San Juan Capistrano); and the Luiseños (San Luis Rey).
THE CHINESE QUARTER OF LOS ANGELES
THE CHINESE QUESTION
NO PROBLEM in California has caused more agitation and has more closely affected the community at large than that of the inhabitants of the Celestial Kingdom. Of late considerable anti-Chinese agitation has sprung up. A group has been formed that has declared, both by word and deed, a veritable war against this peaceful Mongolian invasion. As seen through the eyes of a European, it is idle to deny that much can be said on both sides of the question. Looking at this purely from the legal standpoint—there is a law permitting them to immigrate, to remain in the country, to work, but not to take out naturalization papers—the Chinese have every right to remain in the country, and to expel them would be a miscarriage of law and justice. In fact, now that they are here, their presence has become essential to most inhabitants of California. Esteemed for their loyalty, they are used in railroad construction, in mining, as gardeners, as farmers, and as workmen in manufacturing enterprises. In these various lines they have been highly successful, and without their help another quarter of a century might have elapsed before the material wealth of California could have attained its present development.
Furthermore, becuase of their suitability and cleanliness many homes use them as cooks and stewards. They also make especially capable laundrymen. Chinamen are hard workers and do not drink excessively. Since their needs are easily satisfied they are contented to work for much lower wages than white workers.
On the other hand, it is held that since these heathen do not observe Sunday, they are a demoralizing influence in a Christian
Granted all this were true, it would undoubtedly give grounds for consternation. But while it may not be possible to win over these Chinese to the Christian faith, yet it seems fairly evident that their presence is not jeopardizing Christian society. Their living conditions should be inspected, and, by establishing hospitals for lepers, segregating the tenements, and regulating sanitary conditions in their dwellings, the dangerous contamination of the European population could be largely circumvented. Moreover, as regards their departure from this country, it is not surprising that people who are denied citizenship and equality before the law should return home. And, finally, as to the agitation about the Chinese depriving the white man of work, it might be aptly remarked that the white population has much to learn from the simple standards of the Chinese and that cheap labor is highly advantageous for the welfare and development of the community and a veritable boon to the country at large.
Even now, their numbers are fairly formidable. In 1870, it was estimated that 140,000 Chinese had already come to the Pacific Coast and that of these numbers, 95,000 had remained. More, too, have been entering every day. In the year 1875, 18,000 entered—the largest number, up to that time, that had arrived in a single year. Among the Chinese immigrants entering California many are from the scum of society. Most of them came from Southern China and belong to companies which recruit workers in their home districts. These companies have headquarters in San
In Los Angeles the Chinese have their own quarters and are greatly in demand as laborers. Some have intermarried with Europeans. These are easily recognized by their appearance. American boys frequently hold up to scorn and ridicule these younger sons of China. At times, even the adults indulge in fist-fights which are brought about, as a general thing, by prolonged mistreatment.
They live plainly and consume quantities of abalones. Ground squirrels and pork are among their favorite foods. All in all, they are not popular and in Los Angeles the anti-Chinese feeling is highly developed.
HOUSES
THE exterior of a house invariably indicates whether it belongs to an American or a Californian. That of the former is constructed of wood, and seldom of tile, while that of the latter is made of unbaked brick, clay, and adobe.
Wooden houses, on the other hand, are built usually of redwood, with white pine flooring. Ordinarily they are constructed with what is known, because of its lightness, as the “balloon frame.” This is sometimes called the Chicago frame, for this was where it originated. The boards or planks are fastened together only with nails. The foundations are not, as a general thing, very deep—usually one row of bricks in the middle corresponding to the breadth and two at the sides according to the length. Over this strong planks are placed to conform with the way the rooms are arranged—at least in the case of large houses in the city. Small houses out in the country are frequently built directly on the bare ground. Buildings and dwellings last fairly well despite the fact that such light timber as 2x4,s are used. From the outside these houses present a fairly good appearance; those of the more prosperous families are ornamented with verandas covered with masses of flowers. Usually the paint is gray or grayish-yellow in color. Adobe houses are often patterned after those in Mexico. While not beautiful in appearance, nevertheless they appear comfortable and suitable for this climate. They are invariably one story high and consist—no matter how affluent the owner—of one suite of rooms. The roofs are flat and made usually of asphalt ( brea ) mixed with coarse sand, which is laid on top of small planks or
AGRICULTURE
IN RURAL communities, agriculture, truck-gardening, cattle-raising, bee-culture, and mining are the main occupations. In the city of Los Angeles trade, manufacturing, and fruit-raising are the most important activities. Agriculture being the basic source of wealth in the country it will be given primary consideration.
The agricultural zone of Los Angeles County comprises some 3,000 square miles. Of this about 50 square miles are under irrigation, a similar amount being cultivated without water, while the remaining 2,900 square miles are devoted to cattle-raising.
Subdivisions in various localities have already proven highly successful and flourishing settlements have sprung up on half-barren fields. Cattle ranches have now largely passed out of the hands of land-barons for they bring in slight returns when compared with lands under irrigation. For this reason they should be subdivided in so far as possible, and, wherever feasible, irrigated. It is impossible to overestimate the importance of the sale of small parcels of land at low figures. Many of the large land-owners, however, are now beginning to recognize the benefits to be derived from making lands now lying fallow available to settlers.
The soil in and around Los Angeles is highly adapted to cultivation as it consists mainly of a sandy-clay and mould. Along the coastal ranges is found chalky and tertiary-zone sandstone formation. Here and there near the mountains an occasional outcropping of granite appears. From the hills and mountains rich alluvial deposits are being constantly washed down by the winter rains which enrich the soil on the lowlands. Until the first rains fall the
The country out here is most beautiful in February or March. At this particular season everything is cloaked in green; even the oranges are sending out young shoots. This freshness lasts until the end of April, then, day by day, the beauty diminishes.
The district of Los Angeles is divided into small ranches. Since the soil is light, porous, and free of stones, the working over even virgin soil in new territory becomes a light task. The first plowing is scarcely more difficult than subsequent ones. Cultivation begins usually in December just as soon as the hard-baked soil which, especially where the land is of the clay variety, becomes stiff and dry under the heat of the sun, is softened by the heavy rains. The sooner after October first the rains begin, the better for the farmer. The rains, moreover, must be adequate to penetrate the soil for at least 4 or 6 inches. To insure a good harvest, the soil should be plowed under twice before the ground is properly prepared for planting. This is especially important with virgin soil that is being put, for the first time, under cultivation. By so doing lands being farmed even on the tablelands will return nine good annual harvests out of ten, without irrigation, of castor-oil beans, Indian corn, barley, alfalfa, potatoes, and various kinds of vegetables.
From March to November is the season for planting. Whatever roots, fruits, vegetables, or grains are planted during this period grow rapidly and soon reach maturity. Plantings made during summer do not germinate until the first rains fall. Thus there is ample time for sowing, which, in other countries is of such brief
By the middle of April the rains are usually over, and the harvesting can proceed in a leisurely manner, thus necessitating fewer workers. Grain can be left out in the field with perfect safety; expensive granaries are not needed. Given white men as supervisors, it is possible to raise annually two or three crops each season. Wheat and barley can be cut in the spring, like hay, in April or May. By the time they are fully matured Indian corn and potatoes come into bearing; after these are harvested the bean crop comes on. When one crop of potatoes is grown in the spring, a second crop will be ready by December. For the second or third crop, however, irrigation is essential. This question of irrigation, indeed, is of vital importance in California, since the water supply is limited and unreliable. To be able to place land under irrigation is thus one of the main objectives of every agriculturalist. If water can be procured successfully crops will inevitably follow for Californian soil gives results that are most extraordinary. When lands are irrigated, crops may be raised one after another.
Even if occasional dry years are to be feared they do not prove entirely disastrous, for loss of crops by a drought in one year instead of being detrimental to the harvests of the years following is, on the contrary, rather beneficial, since it allows the soil time to rest. The greatest hardship caused by drought is to the cattle-growers. A so-called dry season, which brings in its train a poor year, occurs when less than 10 inches of rain fall. A mediocre year follows with less than 12 inches. The worst drought occured between 1862-4, when the combined rains of two winters brought
Nevertheless, in certain sections there is so much moisture that irrigation is unnecessary. In localities like these the soil requires only a minimum of working and, whenever seed is sown, a good crop invariably follows. Such lands, however, are limited in area and are quite valuable. Of these the most notable are El Monte and Gospel Swamp.
IRRIGATION
IT has already been indicated how vitally important irrigation is to agricultural in Southern California. This will now be more fully discussed as well as what opportunities along these lines are available in the county of Los Angeles. First of all, some indications will be given of the advantages to be derived from irrigation.
What the soil vitually needs out here is water. When this is supplied no country will be more fruitful than semi-tropical California. Adequate water not only gives nourishment and refreshment but it also enriches the soil by contributing certain vital elements. In fact there are certain regions which have been merely watered and not fertilized and yet have proved equally fruitful over 70 years. This proves the truth of the axiom: The more water, the more fertility. Water is also valuable as a means of eradicating squirrels, gophers, and rats—these subterranean enemies of many fruit trees. Los Angeles, however, has an abundant supply of water; as a result its agriculture opportunities are limitless. There are two kinds of water; running water and springs. The first of these comes primarily from the principal rivers of the county. These—which, as has already been enumerated, are the Santa Ana, the San Gabriel, and the Los Angeles Rivers—rise in the mountains, and are fed by gushing streams and springs that orginate in these vast, steep, rugged mountains over a stretch of 15 miles. For this reason they furnish a constant supply of water which is increased in winter and spring by the rains and the snows melting on the mountains. Owing to this supply Los Angeles enjoys a greater abundance of water than any other county is Southern California.
Of these the Santa Ana is the mightiest and largest river of any emptying into the Pacific between Cape St. Lucas and Monterey—a distance of over 1,000 miles. Rising in the San Bernardino Mountains it winds in a southwesterly direction for more than 100 miles through fruitful valleys, then, having been joined by countless tributaries, it enters Los Angeles County about 30 miles east of Wilmington, between Anaheim and Newport. Ten miles in from the ocean, however, its bed is dry 6 months out of the year. Along its banks lie 125,000 acres under irrigation; but of this amount, 80,000 acres belong to San Bernardino County. Its water contains so many valuable minerals that irrigation is extraordinarily beneficial.
The San Gabriel River which flows for some 40 miles in a southwesterly direction sinks away shortly after leaving the San Gabriel can yon, in the sandy soil. Some of its waters, however, have been diverted by irrigating ditches near the Azusa Ranch, where the settlement of Duarte is located. Considerably more might be accomplished, notwithstanding, by watering the fertile tablelands on either side of the river, which are now of little value. The moisture from this subterranean steam keeps the colony at El Monte, with its 10,000 acres, perennially green. From this point, as it passes through a gap in the Puente Hills, it apparently strikes some formation such as underground springs for, about 15 miles in from the ocean, it reappears with increased volume. One branch flowing southward forms the old San Gabriel and, as it spreads out over the plains, it deposits a large bed of sand and gravel. The other arm, enlarged by springs, flows into what is known as the New San Gabriel River. This has been diverted so far in a southerly direction that its mouth is now 9 miles from the old one. Its waters, however, never reach the ocean. The region stretching from east to west between the two rivers is of considerable width and forms one main valley known as Los Nietos, an area of some 10,000 acres.
Moreover, it would be a simple matter to utilize one of the tributary of San Gabriel—San José creek—that rises east of El Monte, in such a way that ample water could be brought over onto its valley, a valley 20 miles long and a mile broad.
The Los Angeles River, the next stream of importance, is a westerly tributary of the San Gabriel. It flows for some 47 miles in a southeasterly direction after rising in the headwaters of the mountains at Mokowenga in the far end of the San Fernando Valley. The city and suburbs of Los Angeles utilize the major part of its waters; incidentally, it irrigates 60,000 acres. In years past rancheros often had disputes over the water supply, but now not only the entire city of Los Angeles but also all the vegetables gardens, orchards, and vineyards that extend for miles around the city are bountifully supplied with water. There is adequate water, as a matter of fact, for the city to expand out over the entire valley, and enough more to water several square miles. While Los Angeles has the best water supply around here, yet this should be conserved for future usage. For this reason, closed ditches would be of material benefit, retarding evaporation. The waters of the Los Angeles River are municipally controlled and strictly regulated to prevent waste. The flumes supplied by the water company divert the water from the channel of the river as it emerges from the mountains and before any of it is lost in the sandy ground. In wet winters, however, a stream of considerable size flows down for some 15 miles through the valley and unites withzanjas, for irrigating and domestic purposes. These vary in size but the majority are 3 feet broad and 1 foot deep. The water travels at a speed of 5 miles an hour. Every proprietor is entitled to let the water run for as many hours a week as is justified by the amount of his holdings. The zanjas are in charge of an official called a zanjero who regulates the distribution of the waters and sees that the ditches are kept in order.
In addition to these rivers there are numerous small mountain streams. Of these the San Pasqual, Santa Anita, San José, San Antonio, Los Coyotes, de la Brea, Santa Agnes, Centinela and Cucamonga are the most important, although they empty neither into rivers nor into the ocean. Among springs are the San Gabriel and San Fernando, which rise in the Sierra Madre, as well as many at the foot of the mountains that might be utilized for watering 30,000 or 40,000 acres of valley lands. As a matter of fact several of the most extensive and finest vineyards in the county are watered by such springs. Of this the best proof is afforded by the thriving settlement of San Gabriel.
So important is the question of water that it is given constant attention. Of prime importance are the advantages to be derived from irrigating ditches, which, in California, are frequently handled as community enterprises. Whatever is of the slightest importance receives attention. Where the ground is especially low advantage is taken of the fact to build ditches. These are also valuable for watering cattle and fowl (ducks and geese). Within a decade, an abundance of water will be available wherever it is needed in the county.
In addition to surface water, a large part of Los Angeles County has a rich supply of underground water is her artesian wells which have, of late, received considerable notice. Until recent years there were no flowing wells. Now, however, they exist by the hundreds,
Additional wells will be sunk when their value is more widely appreciated. Given this aid planting can be successfully accomplished in arid places and intensive farming can be practised by raising more than one crop in the summer. For general planting it is not necessary to irrigate more than three or four times, while fruit trees require watering only once a month.
For all pratical purposes Holloday's Mills have given very favorable results; the wind is fairly constant and there are no frosts to cause pipes to burst. Many houses and gardens are supplied by
FENCES
CHARACTERISTIC of the Los Angeles landscape are the fences frequently seen along the irrigation ditches. These, as well as the water problem, should be given careful consideration. Usually such fences are of willow saplings, the larger the better. The largest used are strong saplings having a diameter of 3 inches and a length of 8 feet. These, which are generally set out in December, are planted 3 feet deep and 9 inches apart. When given ample water they usually thrive and in two years form a thick hedge. Frequently they are planted from 10 to 20 inches apart and the intervening spaces filled, when the trees are young, with branches. If large saplings are not available, long shoots 1/2 inch thick and 2 inches long are inserted. In this case, less than an inch is allowed to protrude above ground. Five years are required, however, for a dense hedge to form and in the meanwhile, branches and horizontal staves are used to fill the gaps. By the time eight or ten years have passed, these willows have grown into great trees 15 to 30 feet high, with 5 or 6 branches. This is done primarily to keep animals out of vineyards and gardens; it also affords pleasant shade on the highways flanked by these willows as well as supplying an abundance of firewood—an important factor in regions devoid of timber. Their rate of growth depends largely on how much they are watered.
Sycamore and cottonwood are also used for hedges; even if cut in their second year, when only 8 feet high, they afford considerable fire-wood. In and about the old missions, the cactus-fruit was frequently used for living hedges but, while it kept out large animals, gophers and squirrels were fond of burrowing under it both
Board-fences, as well, are extensively used. These in the main are 5 feet high and have at 6-foot intervals a redwood stake with 5 staunch redwood boards 6 inches wide and 1 inch thick inserted. When substantially built they cost $100 a mile. The vast cattle holdings and the many willow hedges now standing make it inadvisable, at the present writing, to press the “no-fence law” desired by so many landowners.
MISCELLANEOUS PRODUCTS
IN the variety and extent of its agricultural products, Southern California is the foremost state in the Union, and, with the annual increase in population by the arrival of new settlers who bring in new species from their own homes, this is rapidly growing more extensive. Under cultivation at the present are olive, fig, almond, filbert, walnut, orange, lemon, citron, and lime trees. The pear, which was planted so extensively by the early Californians and mission fathers, is also raised. Today it is not planted as extensively as formerly, for the varieties introduced were not satisfactory and may have been abandoned, while others have been superseded by better varieties. The apple tree, moreover, flourishes splendidly and begins to bear after the second year. By the fifth year it yields a good crop. Quinces and peaches raised from seed give fruit by the second year. Apricot trees grow to the gigantic height of 20 feet; plums, prunes, chestnuts—many of which, when 15 years old, give 100 pounds of chestnuts—nectarines, bananas (the West Indian variety is the best grown), and pomegranates flourish. The latter, which are propagated by seed or slip, grow in great variety. They do not seem, however, to be greatly in demand in the markets. Winegrapes of all kinds are grown, as well as every variety of berry and melon. Pecans and guavas are also found in the gardens while strawberries can be set out every month in the year. The raising of fruit trees out here assumes extraordinary importance since they grow rapidly and well. There are, moreover, no worms in the apples and no weevils in plums and cherries. In Los Angeles the fruit trees are usually pruned low; this causes them to bear prematurely.
Most of the plants under cultivation, however, have been imported. Grains were brought in largely by the mission fathers, as well as the olive, orange, walnut, almond, and pear trees, date palms and wine grapes, and although these fruits had long been cultivated at the missions yet, in the days of the Spanish ranchero, it was impossible to erect hedges to protect the fruit trees from the vast herds of cattle. Moreover, since the first Americans came out to California during the gold and silver boom, this situation failed to arouse their interest. Not until a later day did they realize that the wealth of California was on top of, rather than under, the earth.
The most important facts about the principal plants under cultivation will now be discussed. The olive tree is grown successfully; only one variety which was probably brought over from Spain is represented. Trees planted by the missionaries over a hundred years ago are still in excellent condition. According to estimates,
Olive trees are propagated out in this country by planting slips or shoots from full-grown trees. Sixty or 70 of these shoots may be planted to an acre. These when mature will give 1400 gallons of olives having a value, on the tree, of $.60 a gallon; 20 gallons of olives will make 3 gallons of olive-oil, which brings wholesale $4 or $5 a gallon. Since pickled olives, on the other hand, are sold at $.75 a gallon, the production of olive-oil is more profitable. On an average, profits running from $200 to $500 may be realized from an acre. Gophers, however, frequently devour the roots of young trees, but these are their only enemies. Not enough stress can be laid on the importance of cultivating this very useful tree and it is highly desirable to plant it over larger areas. What seems mainly to prove a hindrance is the fact that olive trees grow too slowly for people who wish to grow rich rapidly.
The fig tree is likewise an excellent grower and gives a double crop annually. Estimates place the number grown here at 3,000. Up to the present writing, however, the business of drying fruit has not been developed. Only about 1,000 almond trees, a tree that is grown universally throughout California, have been set out in the county of Los Angeles. That other trees have been given the preference is probably due to the fact that the tender almond blossoms, as previously mentioned, suffer from late frosts andLanguedoc, which has been developed from trees imported from France. These blossom late, bear heavily, and have, more-over, a paper-like shell. From 100 to 150 trees are planted to an acre. These come into bearing in their third year and by their fifth give 12 pounds to a tree; that is, 1,200 pounds to an acre. At an average price of $.20 a pound this brings a return of $240 per acre. The annual revenue from each acre with fully grown trees is estimated at $400. Young trees suffer from the ravages of squirrels and gophers. These, however, can be exterminated with patience.
The walnut tree has been extensively planted in California; Los Angeles alone, according to estimates, has 6,000. Three-year old trees can be readily transplanted and, by the seventh year, have been known to yield crops. The tree is very hardy but requires plenty of water. Given ample irrigation, it spreads over a considerable area. Some even attain a height of 20 feet and send out branches measuring 15 or 20 feet in width. They are rapid growers; fourteen-year-old trees often have trunks 42 inches in circumference. They bring in a generous income—often $30 a tree annually. By the twelfth year the crop amounts to 100 pounds; by the sixteenth year this is doubled. Thus one acre with 40 twelve-year-old trees gives a crop of 4,000 pounds of nuts, having a value $400. As the trees grow older, the annual receipts increase proportionately. With trees in full bearing the returns are estimated to run from $600 to $1,000 an acre. The demand for preserved green walnuts, moreover, is very great.
The Franciscans originally introduced the orange tree into California, the first being planted at San Gabriel Mission. Soon after these came into bearing, Don Luis Vignes started an orchard in Los Angeles.
As a general rule the trees are raised from seed, only seeds from the finest oranges being selected for this purpose. The seeds are planted in pots prepared with sandy, clayey soil, covered over, and the surface kept moist. It is also feasible to sow them in the ground.
After three or four years they are transplanted and then require water only five or six times in the dry season. Years ago it was not considered advisable to attempt to raise oranges from seed, but only from shoots grafted from budded trees. Mr. Wilson demonstrated that cultivation from seed was the better method. Stock can be purchased cheaply in the many nurseries in the city of Los Angeles. Five-year old trees cost $3 a hundred; four-year trees, $1.50 a hundred; three-year trees, $.40 to $.60; two-year trees, $.03 to $.20; and one-year trees, 1/2 cent a hundred. Forty, 50 and even 60 are planted to an acre. Seven or 8 years after planting from seed the oranges will bear fruit. A large crop, however, is not produced under 12 years. By the fourteenth year, they produce from 1,500 to
Orange trees blossom in spring and the fruit ripens in December or January. The flavor is at its best in April. This allows the producer four months to dispose of his crop to the trade. The Californian orange is usually a sweet orange combining the characteristics of the fruits of Florida, Louisiana, and Havana. It resembles the first in size, the second in skin, and the third in its excellent flavor. This fruit lasts longer on the tree and is better adapted to shipment than other varieties, although it cannot be denied that the Sicilian and Mallorcan oranges are superior in flavor.
The income from oranges is surprisingly large, fully-grown trees returning, on an average, from $20 to $40. A few years ago, Mr. Wilson received $1,500 from 110 trees. Mr. Rose, who had 50 trees in full bearing had an income of $1,500, or $30 a thousand oranges. This means an income of $45 a tree, or $2,700 an acre. With 10 acres this would give an income of $27,000.
Mr. Wolfskill has an orchard containing 2,000 trees; from each of these sixteen-year-old trees an annual crop of 1,500 oranges was picked. In fact many trees have produced as high as 2,800 oranges. Even if these are not, perhaps, typical instances but the result of intensive cultivation, nevertheless, it may be assumed that every 60 trees planted to an acre will produce 1,000 oranges a tree. These, taken at the low valuation of $20 a thousand—certainly a low figure—would bring in an income of $1,200. One man, it is estimated, can easily handle 20 acres. If to his salary is added the cost of harvesting, boxing, freight and commission for handling fruit—which
1,000 acres of land
7,000 five-year trees, including planting
Interest on $13,000 for 5 years at 10%
Care and cultivation for 5 years
Taxes and irrigation
Total cost of orchard at end of 5 years
Fruit from 7,000 orange trees at $1 a tree
In this way, an outlay of $25,000 brings in after 10% has been deducted for interest, $45,000 annually. The annual income, after 5 years, will be $70,000. These figures are based on returns of $10
The orange tree, however, has its enemies; young trees are attacked by gophers and the greatest care must be taken to keep these underground enemies out of the groves. There is also a disease peculiar to oranges that appears on the leaves, resembling a grayish-black soot, which is probably caused by some plant parasite. According to the reports of Joseph Wolfskill—who owns an orange grove near Los Angeles (his interest in groves is evident from the fact that he realized 50,000 francs from one crop)—this disease is said to have originated first in Southern California and from there gradually to have spread to Los Angeles, being carried toward the northeast by the southwesterly prevailing breezes. Disastrous, too, is the gum-malady, a kind of sweating of the tree, where the gum flows out sporadically after being peeled off, leaving a scar behind. And finally there is the whitemold, especially common in the green lands of the plains which are heavily watered, thereby causing the roots to die away, and, eventually, the entire tree. This is frequently attributed, although erroneously, to the gnawing of the roots by field animals.
The Sicilian lemon is excellent, and is easily raised from shoots or roots. While requiring water it is less care than the orange, being considerably hardier. On the other hand, it also grows more slowly, bearing fruit only after its tenth year. It does not come into full bearing until its sixteenth year. A heavy bearer, its fruit may be picked throughout the year. Some trees yield $100 annually.
The Chinese lemon, which is almost as large as the citron and which ripens all year, has a flavor that for mixed drinks, for fine pastry, as well as for eating, is unexcelled, even by the Sicilian lemon. Nevertheless, it has not yet come to be popular commercially, although used to some extent for preserves. According to estimates, there are 8,350 lemon trees in the country.
For a time, the Mexican lime was cultivated in large quantities; now, however, it is being superseded by trees that are bringing higher profits. Notwithstanding, it is a ready bearer and yields constantly. Every tree bears fruit at least 10 times a year, bringing in a revenue of $50 to $75 annually. Since it is a small tree, from 200 to 300 can be planted to an acre. Their fruits, which at times measure 18 inches, weigh, occasionally, 3 1/2 to 4 pounds. These are suitable for drinks, medicinal purposes, for salads served with oysters, and, with tender fish, are better than lemons. The lime, which like the citron is used only for preserves, and which is accordingly less intensively cultivated, requires irrigation. It bears fruit in 4 or 5 years. In Los Angeles in the year 1875, 3 trees that were given no special care bore fruit valued at $45.
Among all the products of Los Angeles none, probably, is more important than the grape. The so-called mission grape was brought in by the fathers in 1770 and extensively raised by the Indians under this tutelage. This, presumably, was of the malaga variety known as Vino Carlo. In Mexico, however, from where the first cuttings were imported, many of its salient characteristics were lost, and it no longer resembles the malaga grape. Though only a fair wine can be made from it, the fathers gave it the preference since it was both hardy and a prolific bearer. Even now 75 per cent of the grapevines in California are hardy bearers. In shape it is perfectly round, being when fully developed about three-quarters of an inch in diameter. While ripening it is of a reddish-brown
In the year 1859, the advantages of grape-raising in California came to be more generally recognized and because of its excellent climate and suitable soil California is destined to become one of the greatest wine-producing countries in the world. Southern California is particularly adapted to this purpose more than any of the eastern states being undisturbed by storms or frosts and free from those parasites that are so injurious to European vineyards. The oidium did, indeed, appear in 1859, but has done comparatively little damage. There is seldom a crop failure and in general it may be said that Californian vineyards ordinarily produce twice as much as those of other regions. Los Angeles, however, is the best grape district of the state. The total number of grapevines in California is estimated at 30,106,429, of which 4,250,000 are in Los Angeles. As vineyards are not watered except the first season they are set out, large areas may be utilized. There is one stretch of country especially adapted for this purpose that stretches for a distance of some 50 miles, and lies about 20 miles in from the ocean. The planting of vineyards requires no great amount of capital since good vineyard land is available in large areas and at low figures. Grape cuttings are inexpensive and grow rapidly. For this reason Los Angeles will produce more wine no doubt than is now made in the entire state. Even now this country produces one-third of the total output.
Between January and March cuttings taken from three and four-year-old vines, which have already put out roots and have been standing for several months in the winter season, are planted. These are usually placed in rows 6 and 7 feet apart; at 6 foot intervals, a thousand shoots may be set out to an acre. By the third year the vines have already come into bearing and begin to give, on an average, 3 to 6 pounds of grapes. By their fifth year they yield a good crop of 7,000 to 9,000 pounds an acre. In six years the vines are in full bearing. They continue to grow, however, until the sixteenth year, increasing to a maximum yield of from 15,000 pounds, and even, at times, to as much as 18,000 or 20,000 pounds an acre. When the vine is about 3 feet high, from the crown masses of leaves and grapes begin to develop. The vine, however, is allowed to grow undisturbed, so that it becomes quite tall. In Los Angeles there is one vine that was trained on the sunny side of the house and is now 25 feet high. The largest vineyards are those of B. D. Wilson in San Gabriel, with 200,000 vines; L. J. Rose, with 130,000; and Matthew Keller of Los Angeles, with 100,000. The crop is harvested between the middle of September and the first of October. The unripe and damaged grapes are carefully separated and those who do not make their own wine sell their grapes to the large vineyards who press wine, usually at $1 or $1.25 a pound. As a matter of fact, there are about three dozen large wineries in the Los Angeles valley which handle nearly all the produce of the small proprietors. The vineyards in and around Los Angeles are largely controlled by Mr. Matthew Keller. Wine making, as the following figures indicate, is in a flourishing condition. In Los Angeles were produced, in 1859, 500,000 gallons; in 1863, 1,000,000; in 1872, 3,000,000; in 1875, 7,000,000 and in 1876, 10,000,000. Brandy is distilled in large quantities and furnishes one of the main sources of income in the country. One of the great advantages of this wine is that it is made from pure grape-juice, for the local vines bear so heavily that it does not pay to adulterate
Another very productive branch of the grape-raising industry is that of drying grapes which is especially facilitated by the dry summers in California. For this purpose, grapes are often placed on the tile floors of a building that has a glass roof. The white malaga is the best variety for this purpose and will, if properly set out, bear 10,000 pounds to an acre. Manufacturers figure 4 pounds of grapes to 1 pound of raisins. Equally suitable for this purpose is the white muscat of Alexandria, an early and prolific bearer; the second year after planting it returns a good income. An acre of those vines bearing 12,000 pounds of grapes gives 4,000 pounds of raisins which sell for 10 cents a pound. The mission grape, which is tough and has large seeds, makes poor raisins.
There are several more plants whose cultivation has already been started but which, up to the present, have been largely of an experimental nature, but might later prove lucrative. Among them are India rubber, banana, coffee, and tea plants. The latter grow well but it is questionable whether they will be able to compete
Cereals are the largest source of wealth in Los Angeles. This is clearly indicated by the fact that at present 15,250 acres are given over to the cultivation of barley, 7,000 to wheat, and 15,425 to Indian corn. Barley is king of Los Angeles County. It is, moreover, highly adapted to this climate, for no year is too dry for a good harvest, provided the ground is plowed 10 inches deep and the seed is sown as early as possible in December. In places where the soil is very porous the ground only requires to be turned over lightly once with a plow, nor is it an exaggeration to say that of the two million acres that form the arable soil of the county, at least one-half give splendid crops. Since at any time during the summer months, as already indicated, seed may be sown, and since several crops may be planted, how much one man is able to accomplish! The second year the field has only to be harrowed, for the seeds that have dropped out at harvest time are adequate for a new crop and even, at times, for a third which often exceeds the first in yield. Barley, as a matter of fact, is raised in large quantities. It is used as fodder for cattle, horses, and hogs, especially in the mining districts. It is therefore greatly in demand and the prices here are as high as in San Francisco. Intelligently cultivated, barley yields from 40 to 60 bushels an acre. Rye is becoming
Buckwheat has been successfully raised in the country and has, on the whole, given excellent results. Before the advent of the Americans and as late as 1855-1856 the hills were covered with wild oats. Now, however, this has largely disappeared, probably because of sheep being pastured in the hills. No more has been sown and what has come up has grown from the seeds that have been left on the ground after the harvest. It makes a nourishing, wholesome, and palatable fodder for cattle. In the few fields thus planted the average yield is between 20 and 24 bushels per acre annually. Many oat crops, notwithstanding, are cut down like hay, since they yield little seed in proportion to straw. The slender kernels are usually gathered with a machine called a “header” which extracts merely the tips of the panicle. Barley, wheat, and oats are threshed and stacked on the field, then left standing there or along the highway frequently for weeks at a time until the grain is sold or shipped. With the dryness of the local summer, there is no danger of the grain being damaged.
Canary seed and broom corn grow well, as does rice, especially the small African variety. Maize (Indian corn) is well adapted to damp soil, and, until recently, Los Angeles was the outstanding region in California for its cultivation. Even now, about 50 per cent of the land is devoted to this grain, and this acreage is increasing daily. These regions have the advantage over the Mississippi Valley in that no rains fall in the summer and that there are no wild weeds. There are also many stretches of country which
What lands are now planted out to maize bring in from 50 to 125 bushels an acre; this latter high figure is reached in the damp country near Los Nietos and El Monte. The average, however, is from 70 to 80 bushels. The price rarely sinks below a cent a pound.
A crop that likewise looks highly promising is the sugar-beet, that grows to an enormous size. Some, in fact, are 30 and 40 inches in circumference and 4 feet long, weighing as high as 118 pounds. One advantage out here is that they do not have to go to the expense of protecting them, as in Germany, from the cold. Sugar-beets are planted out in January and February, in time to catch the late rains. The dry spring weather that soon follows is highly beneficial for the development of the sugar content. If left in the ground, they will grow not only throughout one year, but for two years. Beet-raising holds many possibilities for profit since it is a highly valuable fodder for cattle. A quarter of an acre planted out to beets will feed two cows.
For extracting sugar, pumpkins could also be raised to good advantage. These, in California, grow readily and to an extraordinary size—some even weigh as high as 100 to 205 pounds and contain about five per cent sugar. Sorghum could also be used for this purpose.
Castor-beans are quite generally cultivated and
return, on an average, 1,500 pounds per acre to the value of $56.
White beans return one ton an acre, or $40, and as they can generally be replanted two or three times a year they are a sound investment.
Potatoes were not in the beginning successful, as they were raised from poor seed in damp soil.
Among plants cultivated, none is so important as alfalfa, or the Chilean clover, whose seeds were brought into California from Chile and which yields an extraordinarily rich harvest, but requires considerable water. In summer alfalfa grows an inch a day; in winter, half an inch. As a result, it has a growth of 25 feet a year. It does not require replanting, growing luxuriantly year after year. Monthly, or at least every three months, if watered or planted in damp soil, it will yield from 12 to 18 tons of rich hay per acre. When green it makes excellent fodder for livestock. Indicative of the possible profits to be derived from its cultivation may be mentioned the fact that a farmer in Los Angeles County purchased an acre of land for $50, planting it to alfalfa. He had six harvests, which he sold at $10 a ton. Since one acre produced 12 tons, the field yielded him $120 an acre profit.
In concluding, several other plants should be mentioned. One of these is the cactus or prickly-pear, whose fruits, called nopales, are eaten. Choyas, on the other hand, are often found growing wild out on the plains.
Southern California is especially adapted to gardens since so many plants can be made to grow readily and to bloom with extraordinary beauty. Bushes usually flower for a long period. Every variety of tree also develops rapidly. Certain kinds of palm throw out branches measuring 11 feet, and attain a height of 35 feet. Frequently, too, bushes and plants from foreign countries are introduced into these gardens. Of indigenous plants, the most ornamental bush is the Coenothus, which is a prime favorite.Eucalyptus globulus, is likewise a favorite. The latter deserves special mention since it is planted in masses everywhere. It grows with extraordinary rapidity, as much as 20 feet a year. The varying shape of the leaves is worthy of note. These are usually broad and round, but if well nourished they grow into an elongated, lance-like shape. Even with poor soil old trees will usually have long leaves. Young trees with long leaves will, when planted in rich soil, send out shoots with amazing rapidity. Although developing with much rapidity, eucalyptus furnishes a strong, hard, durable wood. Large areas of this useful tree have, moreover, already been planted. The largest forest is on the Anaheim branch of the Southern Pacific at a point where it crosses
Not enough emphasis can be laid on the advantages of reforestation. In addition to the small number of evergreens and alders that are found growing in limited areas, the plains are unwooded. What groves are found have no value for productive purposes except indirectly, by attracting moisture. In fact there is a law compensating anyone planting trees along a road fronting or passing through his property.
In the canyons north of the mountains there are, however, extensive forests which can be utilized and which are accessible partly by the San Fernando and Cajon Passes and which will, within a short time, have a more direct connection. Up to the present writing, on account of the difficulities of transportation, building materials are brought into Los Angeles by sea from ports along the north coast of California. After the lumber is taken off the ships, they are loaded again with grain. Two kinds of wood are imported, redwood and cedar (known as Oregon pine). The price per 1,000 feet in Los Angeles is $32.50 for unfinished, and $42.50 for finished lumber.
LAND VALUES
OBVIOUSLY the price of land varies according to soil and location. Lands fall into four main divisions. First-class land is taxed at a valuation of $.25 to $4 an acre and includes pasture land, marshes, alkali lands, mountains, rocky land, and river-beds. The average price of inferior pasture-land is $2.75 an acre. The second class assessed at $5.88 an acre, covers medium lands such as good grain and farm lands. When land is near the city such lands have a value of $25 to $100. In the fourth class, which is estimated to $25 TO $50, are vineyard and orchard lands that have water. The best clayey soil is usually valued at $30 to $40 an acre; land suitable for raising semi-tropical fruits is sold, generally, at $40 to $60 an acre. Good vineyard land brings $15 to $50; select fruit land, $75 to $200; olive lands, at $100 to $150. The richest lands in and near the city naturally bring much higher figures.
Upon arriving in this country the prices of land seem, to the inexperienced, to be inflated. But in California, although land may be had at any figure, of what value is dry mesa land where only one harvest of winter grain can be grown and which stands idle throughout the entire summer? Naturally an acre of land with 50 full-bearing orange trees that bring in returns of $1,000, or a fertile piece of well-watered land that will bear crops worth from $100 to $300 annnually will command a fair price. The purchaser must also keep in mind the fact that production out here is approximately twice what it is in the Eastern States.
BEE AND SILK CULTURE
IN Los Angeles County the raising of bees is an important industry. Fifteen years ago the first swarm of Italian bees was imported into the country and the local conditions proving especially favorable, they soon multiplied rapidly. In fact the white sage blossom that grows so luxuriantly on the plains and mountains afforded so pure and white a honey that it soon came to be greatly in demand. Its extraordinary clearness and rich flavor similar to that the Hymethis honey, moreover, gave it a leading place in the markets. Since the bees out in this country work actively for 9 or 10 months large amounts of honey are collected.
In 1874 there were as many as 22,000 beehives in the state; of these, 7,000 were in Los Angeles and San Diego Counties. By 1875, Los Angeles alone had 4,570 hives and the yearly increase is now estimated at 150 per cent. If the yield from each hive is computed at 150 pounds—which is a modest estimate since hives often produce 200 pounds—with 5,000 hives the yield would amount to 750,000 pounds of honey. At a price of $.08 (in San Francisco in 1876 the price for comb-honey was $.25 a pound, and for strained honey $.09 to $.12) this would give Los Angeles County a yearly income of $592,000.
Both slopes of the Sierras afford excellent food for bees since they are rankly overgrown with white sage, while the mountain range near Santa Monica is one of the best honey-districts, both as to quality and quanity, in the state. Bees in Los Angeles County have three deadly enemies: the wax-moth, the bee-bird, and the lizard. The two latter catch the bees on the flowers; the
Wild bees are hunted by placing on the ground out in the fields, a piece of burning wax, and nearby, some honey. The bees lured by the smell come and alight on the honey. Upon being satiated they fly toward their hive. The hunter, who is waiting for the bees to swarm to the hive, then catches some, puts them in a pasteboard box, and follows the direction of their flight. If he believes he has missed the hive he liberates a bee; if she flies forward, the hive is ahead; if she flies back, he knows he has missed the hive and must retrace his steps. This is repeated as often as necessary, and several hours frequently pass before the next is located and the hunter brings the honey and swarm in triumph to his own hive. As proof of the keen interest in bee-culture a Bee-keepers' Association has already been formed by 40 of the most enterprising bee-growers in the county with meetings every other month.
Los Angeles County with its equable climate is also adapted to the silk industry, particularly since mulberry trees flourish readily. Most attempts, however, which have been made were done hastily and without proper knowledge of how to plant out mulberry trees. This was brought about by the offering of a state prize in 1867 for all mulberry trees planted and for the largest number of cocoons in proportion to the number of trees.
CATTLE-RAISING
CATTLE-RAISING has long occupied an important place in the development of Los Angeles County and although not so extensively pursued as during the Mexican régime (it no longer pays to retain intact great stretches of rich pasture-land), yet stock-raising still flourishes, several influential citizens being keenly interested in rearing fine stock.
The country out here is peculiarly adapted to this purpose since it has ample water and excellent grass both on the foothills of the Sierra and also in the valleys. The young grass begins to sprout in December and lasts until June when it is cut for hay and grain. Cattle are thus grass-fed until the first of June, given hay from June to October, and supplied with grain from October to December when the winter rains begin.
During the winter and spring months are found two plants that afford them considerable food; alfilerilla (Erodium cicutarium ), and bunch-grass.
Alfalfa as a fodder is unexcelled for producing milk. An acre of alfalfa will feed 20 sheep at a cost of $3 a head, whereas on mesa land now utilized for sheep ranches, two or three acres are required to support a similar number at an outlay of from $4 to $6 a head. The cow can live on a quarter of an acre; one acre will keep 15 hogs in good condition, although to fatten them for market a small amount of Indian corn is added. For farm-horses, alfalfa is also excellent fodder. Not only is this highly advantageous as well as the fact that cattle can be fed throughout the year on green fodder, but also the fact that maize and other grain can be cut monthly for feed. Moreover, owing to the dryness of the climate hay can be stacked up in the open field, thus eliminating the need for expensive barns—another boon to cattle-growers. Then, too, the mammoth beets and turnips grown are suitable for feeding cattle, being especially fine for steers. One-fourth of an acre planted twice a year to beets will keep 2 cows for one year, a fact previously mentioned in discussing beet-growing. Work-horses are fed barley and hay. Owing to these favorable conditions,
Among the many kinds of live-stock raised extensively in Los Angeles County are sheep. Considerable attention is given their breeding and many fine herds have been raised by prominent rancheros. Undoubtedly, this country is admirably suited to sheep-raising. A two-year-old sheep out here is as large and fat as a three-year-old in the eastern states and gives more wool. Before they are a year old they already bear young. Scab is prevalent in a mild form. In the early days, the herds multiplied rapidly; in 1867, there were 148,700; in 1870 the tax-assessor reported that there were 482,372 sheep in the county. This ratio of increase, however, was not constant; in 1875, the herds numbered only 484,682. Of late, owing to the encroachment of agriculture which has driven out many herds of sheep into other counties, a decrease has been noticeable. Notwithstanding, sheep are profitable sources of income. Estimating them roughly, in the year 1874 at half a million would give four million pounds of wool—20% being taken off at an average clip. In 1876, the wool clip amounted only to three million pounds.
In Los Angeles County sheep during the daytime are pastured out in the open, guarded by herders. On large ranches, a shepherd herds 1,000 sheep. Herders in California are usually Indians, Californians, Chinamen, or Scotchmen; of these, the latter make the best herders. At night the sheep are shut up in corrals to protect them from attacks by beasts of prey who are afraid to come over low fences. Enemies of sheep are the puma, wild-cat, fox, and coyote. The latter are readily poisoned by meat, saturated with strychnine. The former are hunted when they prove too troublesome. In mountain regions the shepherd often sleeps at the entrance of the corral on a platform called a tempestra raised about 12 feet off the ground on thick posts rammed into the earth as a protection from
One of the most successful sheep-ranches in the county is that of J. Bixby & Co., Cerritos, containing about 25,000 acres and 10 artesian wells.
After shearing, sheep are dipped as a preventative of scab. This is accomplished by submerging them in a dip of tobacco and sulphur. Mr. Bixby, however, expects to secure the same results through the use of steam. After being dipped in the reservoir, the sheep come up a plank runway out into the open, and are kept for the next six months in pasture.
Goats are comparatively few in number; several cashmeres, however, have been recently imported.
Steers are also fewer than under the Mexican régime—although, in 1875, they amounted to 16,408. Many of them, however, have been shipped out to regions where grass is especially abundant. Even if the numbers have diminished yet the breeds have improved materially and a fine foreign strain has become established. English, Spanish, and American stock has gradually been replaced by others, Durhams, Ayrshires, and Guernseys being especially popular. The former run wild over the ranges and do not require special fodder. With the introduction of new breeds there has
During the era of Spanish colonization and Mexican rule—as already observed—cattle-raising was one of the chief occupations of Californians. Cattle were slaughtered solely for their hides and tallow; meat being discarded since there was an over-supply in comparison with the needs of the scanty population. No ranchero had less than one-quarter of a square league (4,438 acres) and the government gave, without compensation, from one to eleven leagues to anyone who was willing to build a home and stock the land with 100 head of cattle. For a man to possess 5,000 cattle was not unusual. Cattle roamed at random, cows being kept for breeding. Steers, on the other hand, were killed when three or four years old. Calves were usually born early in the year and by March the first rodeo was held to brand young calves. There were, and still are, what are called general and special rodeos. The general rodeo is held under the auspices of all cattle-growers in the immediate vicinity; a special rodeo is held by a private individual who wishes to check over the cattle on his own ranch. A rodeo may thus serve for one ranch or for several; every large ranch, however, holds its own rodeo, usually once in the spring and once in the fall, being required by law to hold at least one a year. When a general rodeo is to be held invitations are sent out weeks in advance to all the neighbors. The vaqueros drive the cattle to the appointed place, which usually remains unchanged from year to year—and therancheros who come from the greatest distance are usually allowed to select their cattle and drive them away first. Frequently these rodeos last several days. Rodeos, as a general thing, are held in rotation, usually starting from the south and working north. The rancheros attend each rodeo in succession where they believe they may find some of their cattle. Often there are from 12 to 20 of these round-ups, each attended by 10 or 15 vaqueros and friends, making a small army. Cattle are recognized by the brand, while calves follow the mothers. The spring rodeos are in reality jolly, pleasant parties where each vaquero displays his skill in riding and lasso-throwing, which requires extraordinary knowledge of cattle. In times past every one attended these festivals in gala attire. Contests were often held, a favorite sport at rodeos being an exhibition where the rider approaches a cow or a steer and, catching the animal's tail, holds it between his foot and the saddle and rides parallel to the creature. When the horse runs too fast the rider is thrown off head-first.
The lasso, usually the riata, is a leather rope some five-eighths of an inch in diameter, and 30 yards long, made of 4 strips of braided cow-hide, which has been stripped of hair and smeared with fat. It is usually thrown a distance of 15 to 20 feet. There are some vaqueros, however, who can lasso a cow 30 feet away.
When a ranchero returns from the rodeo he brings his herd into a corral, usually an enclosed are from 30 to 50 yards square surrounded by a staunch fence, where the calves are branded. If too many have been brought back from the neighboring ranches to brand in one day they are herded until the work is completed. When marked the cow is set free; usually she returns to the ranch to which she has grown accustomed. This is of no importance to the ranchero, provided she does not wander to ranches whose rodeos he did not attend. Only when serious grass famines occur do the rancheros drive strange cattle off their ranches.
After the rodeos are over the cattle on each private ranch are next branded. Every morning about 200 cows with their calves are driven into a corral. There, while one vaquero holds the cow by the head and another by both feet with a lasso, the brand is burned on the flank. The law requires the branding of all horses and cattle and a copy of the brand, burned on leather, has to be deposited in the county recorder's office.
In autumn rodeos are held usually to mark calves that were overlooked in the spring or were too young for branding. Some rancheros also use another mark, such as a slitting of the ears, or a notch on the dewlap. Of this, a drawing must also be deposited at the office. It is illegal to clip or cut the ears in any way for such an act would eradicate marks inserted by owners. In 1875, there were 11,707 horses owned by Californians. Years ago horse were numerous, having been brought over from Spain to Mexico in the Sixteenth Century and from there into California about sixty years ago. This breed is a small, rugged animal, often mouse-colored, dull brown, and wiry, but quick, sturdy, and quite suitable for the ranchero; however, they are unfitted for hard labor. As riding horses they were unexcelled in early California, being able to carry a rider one hundred miles in a day and feeding exclusively on grass. To ride sixty miles a day was not considered extraordinary. Formerly, in the days of the great ranchos, they were banded in manadas, or herds, under one stallion. Mares foaled as a rule before they were three years old; the colts were then put into the caballado, quarters for training horses. When three or four months
Mules are few in number; they are not favored by Americans who consider them ulgy. Of late, some fine mules have been bred from the donkey stock of Kentucky.
The raising of hogs is especially worthy of note. In 1875, there were 6040 hogs in Los Angeles County, most of them of such excellent stock as the bristle-hog which has increased steadily within recent years. This, indeed, is due to the fact that they are raised on alfalfa and maize. Acorns, too, are frequently used for fodder.
Comparatively few dogs, with the single exception of shepherd dogs, are seen in Los Angeles, although the small rat-terriers so often encountered in America are fairly common.
Poultry-raising, up to the present, has never attained significant proportions, although it is on the increase. Poultry in the Los Angeles markets sells usually for $5 to $7 a dozen; eggs bring $.50 a dozen.
HUNTING AND FISHING
HUNTING around the Los Angeles is excellent; especially along the coast and the marshy lands are found ducks and geese by the millions. They are, however, very shy, since hunters are numerous. California quail, cotton-tails (a species of jack-rabbit), and every kind of small game are to be found along the mountain ranges and the foothills east and north of the city where they seek shelter in the thick underbrush that covers much of the country. The San Fernado, San Gabriel, San José, and Cucamonga Valleys are particularly famous for their hunting. For big game it is necessary to go high up into the San Fernando, Soledad, or Fort Tejon country, where deer, antelope, mountain sheep, and cinnamon bear are common. While strenuous hunting, it is fine sport. Frequently in Los Angeles large parties are arranged for the hunt, many sportsmen going into the mountains two or three times a year.
If the extermination of the small mordants that destroy crops may be termed hunting—and that is what it actually is—ground-squirrels, it should be said, are hunted mainly by poison, especially strychnine and phosphorus. The former is placed on wheat; the latter on wheat and flour. Another method used is to dip a rag in kerosene, sprinkle it with sulphur, light it, and put it in the hole, at the same time stopping the mouth and any other exits from which smoke might escape. A bellows has also been invented with a container for burning sulphur which is used to pump poisonous smoke into the hole. Gophers can also be killed with phosphorus and strychnine; however, they are more readily caught in traps than spermophiles.
Deep-sea fishing affords rich booty from whales down to oysters. This sport, moreover, is still in its infancy. Most fishing is done off the wharfs at Wilmington and Santa Monica where fish weighing five and six pounds are caught. Frequently sharks and porpoises are harpooned. Fishes in large numbers are caught in nets for the Los Angeles markets. In the mountain streams further inland fine brook-trout and salmon-trout are also caught. The latter are usually taken with what are called gill-nets. These have meshes barely large enough for the trout's head to pass through, which catch him behind his gills. The net does not touch bottom since the fish swim fairly near the surface, but is stretched diagonally across the stream or a section of it and floats with the current for several hundred yards or even half a mile while the fishermen follow behind in a boat.
MINING
DESPITE the fact that gold was first found in Los Angeles County, it is of considerably less importance as a mining center than for its agricultural activities, which were neglected for a considerable period in favor of cattle-raising.
The story of the discovery of gold is as follows: it was first found in 1833 by natives in the gravel and sand on the hills near the northern boundary of the country.
In 1854, gold was discovered in sand and gravel beds by Captain Hannager and a party of prospectors from Los Angeles in San Gabriel Canyon, about 18 miles from Los Angeles.
Approximately 3 miles from the mouth of the San Gabriel and 24 miles from Los Angeles are the Zapata mines carrying rich silver-bearing veins. These mines, which belong to Dr. Winston and his associates, have good indications. Work on them, however, has been interrupted owing to slides. In 1861, copper was discovered in Soledad Canyon at the source of the Santa Clara River and shortly after $300,000 was expended for its exploitation. This ore runs from 85 to 90 per cent. Unfortunately, since it was found primarily in pockets, the workings failed to pay since ore was not present in large quantities. On a sandy hill a few miles northwest from the abandoned tunnel, gold-bearing quartz was found in 1862, but not in commerical amounts. Traces of alum, cinnabar, lead, gold, and silver are to be also found in many parts of this country. Cinnabar deposits have, moreover, been located in the chalky cliffs along the coast. Mercury, too, is present in several parts of the county, while extensive tin deposits of great wealth have been discovered, especially in the southern and eastern ranges. Capital for their exploitation has not, however, been forthcoming. Large deposits of coal, unfortunately, have not been located, despite constant searches. A good grade of marble in paying quantites has been located at Anaheim and San Fernando. Gypsum deposits, believed to be 30 miles in extent, are reputed to exist in the mountains; these, however, have not yet been carefully inspected.
The greatest mineral wealth of Los Angeles promises to be petroleum. The Pennsylvania oil-fields being already on the decline, a new field promises to open up out on this coast. About half a mile from the shore, in the general vicinity of Ventura and Santa Barbara, the ocean is covered with a thin film of oil about 10 miles in length and stretching far out to sea. This, which is ascribed to submarine oil-wells, is highly significant, as is the steady seepage
The district of San Fernando lies in the northwest corner of Los Angeles County. On the north it borders San Francisquito; on the west, the Sierra of Santa Susanna; on the south, Rancho Simi; and, on the east, Mission San Fernando. It also adjoins the foothills on the northeast slope of the San Gabriel Mountains where, toward the north, stretches the Santa Clara Valley.
In a lone spur of the San Fernando Range about 35 miles from Los Angeles, oil was discovered in February, 1865, by Mexicans who, while out hunting bear, became thirsty and began to search for water. Finding a brook that emitted a strange odor of petroleum, they struck a match which immediately ignited. Cognizant of the importance of their discovery one remained on the ground to establish possession while his partner hurried off to Los Angeles to inform some of the most influential citizens—among them General Andrés Pico, Dr. Vincent Gelcich, Colonel Baker, and Messrs. Wiley, Leaming, Stevenson, Rice, Todd, Lyon, and Andere—of this discovery. These men decided to go out and stake claims measuring 1500x600 feet apiece in conformity with the mining laws, and instruct the discoverers how to protect their claims.
The first claim was named Cañada Pico (General Pico's holding, later owned by the Star Oil Working Company), the second was called Wiley, the third Moore, the fourth Rice (this is now owned by Dr. Gelcich), the fifth after a man called Leaming, the
The main shale body can now be traced, and reveals a stratum 400-500 feet wide running northwest and southeast for about 6 miles near sandstone deposits 32° southwest. The crude oil has a gravity of 40° Baume. None of the wells yields paraffin.
In 1874, Dr. Gelcich started a refinery that will soon produce 300 barrels a day. The crude is 80 per cent pure oil. Even with a refinery capable of handling 1500 barrels a day, the capacity would be inadequate to handle the total daily production of the wells. In the beginning, the problem of transportation proved difficult; now, however, the railway is only 6 miles away and at the A ndrews Station, two hours out of Los Angeles, wooden tanks have been erected for storing oil. Futhermore, the Star Oil Working Company has established a refinery which is running at full capacity. Of crude oil, 60 per cent goes into an illuminating oil of high gravity with 120°-130° fire test, 25 per cent is extracted as a lubricating oil; the balance is fuel.
Closely associated with these oil-wells are the numerous valuable asphalt deposits which are found throughout the county. Oil, as a matter of fact, flows out from strata of slate and sandstone; where the shale is penetrated flowing oil emerges; where, however, the upper strata are formed of rock, the oil is found in the form of tar, that is, oil that has been transformed into asphalt through oxidation. This, as it seeps out, resembles a black, tar-like
This asphalt is largely used for roofs and sidewalks. For the former purpose it is in common use on many of the Californian houses in Los Angeles. It is also in demand for the manufacturing of glass.
In conclusion, extraction of salt from salt-deposits, which is conducted on an extensive scale by Mr. Trudell about 13 miles from Los Angeles, is worthy of mention.
In the course of time more mineral wealth will undoubtedly be discovered. In the adjacent counties many mines have been prospected while the inauguration of rail connection with Arizona will prove an inestimable boon to Los Angeles as a mining center.
INDUSTRIES
EVEN if industrial activities in Los Angeles are somewhat behind those of other states in the Union, yet daily progress is being made in this direction. Water-power is proving an invaluable aid; two excellent flour-mills which are doing a good business have already been established, as well as several saw-mills, planing-mills, woolen-spinning mills and an ice-plant. Wagons and carriages of good quality are also being produced, as are goldsmith's wares of excellent quality. There are as well several shoemakers, quite a number of good tailors, an iron-foundry for making columns and other miscellaneous equipment used in building houses, and a stove-manufacturi ng plant. Tile of excellent quality is made extensively and sells for $8 a thousand. In 1875, an Eastern firm, known as Titus, established a plant for manufacturing artificial stone. In its manufacture Portland cement is mixed with pure white sand—Los Angeles has an ample supply of a high-grade sand—which thus becomes as hard as stone in a few days. It is extremely durable. Up to the present time only six-inch water pipes have been made. These, which sell at $.25 a foot, are a boon to the farmer in handling irrigation, since they effect a great economy of water. Conduit-pipe and drain-pipe, as well as ornamental objects, are also made by the Los Angeles Terra Metal Pipe Company. Out in the San Fernando Valley there has been discovered an extensive deposit of porcelain-earth where a factory will soon be established.
The principal industry of Los Angeles, however, as has already been indicated, is the production of wine and brandy. The manufacture of olive-oil and mustard is likewise of considerable
Ship-building, in the course of time, also promises to become of importance industrially along the coast. Indicative of this is the fact that, in 1876, 49 ships were built on the Pacific coast in California.
TRADE
IN Los Angeles County business consists largely of the sale of domestic products to the San Francisco Markets, and the supplying of miscellaneous wares, agricultural implements, and building material, to the back-country. Mining is still is in its infancy. However, this will receive a great impetus when Arizona is opened up, and the mines in the desert basin north and east of the Sierra Madre have rail connection and are highly developed, for all these regions will prove heavy consumers. Meat, grain, hay, vegetables, butter, and cheese all will be purchased in Los Angeles—the nearest point—and from semi-tropical California in general. Upon considering the needs of the great numbers of miners, the commercial future of the coastal country can be readily imagined.
There are already four banks in Los Angeles and yet there is room enough for several more. In this new country money is greatly in demand and interest rates are high. The leading bank, the Farmers and Merchants Bank, is capitalized at $500,000; its stock is held almost exclusively by several of the richest citizens.
The Temple and Workman Bank which was organized in 1871 has the confidence of the public at large.
The Commercial Bank which was established on December 1, 1871, is capitalized at $300,000.
The Los Angeles County Bank is the only institution that is primarily a Savings Bank.
To give an accurate picture of the present-day trade activities, there is given below a table showing the freight hauled by the Los Angeles and San Pedro Railway from January 1 to December 31, 1873, complied by Truman.
Assorted Wares
Wine and Brandies
Bullion
Fruit
Ore
Hides
Rawhides
Dressed hides
Maize
Maize and Rye
Oats
Beans
Rye
Corn
Wheat
Pop-corn
Borax
Nuts
Hay
Hops
Eggs
Honey
Bees-wax
Asphalt
Oil
Empty casks and bags
Dried fruit
Tallow
Trees and shoots
Sharks' fins and abalone
Horses
Hogs
Sheep
Express-Freight
Total
The following tables from the Herald disclose the imports and exports for 11 months in 1875 carried over the Southern Pacific Railway, indicating the total trade between Wilmington and the back-country, with the exception of what large amounts went via Santa Monica and Newport on MacFadden's Steamer and by barge to Anaheim. While this table indicates that exports are noticeably lighter than imports, it should be recalled that, in the first place, a considerable amount of agricultural products was sent by freight into the interior to the mines and that also, in a country like this which is developing rapidly, the importation of building materials, machines, and agricultural implements naturally predominates. Indicative of this development is the enormous amount of lumber imported.
In that particular year, the total amount of building-material received was 13,338,180 feet; laths, 3,324,280; shingles, 5,602,168; cross-beams, 734,400; fence-posts, 29,300; and pikes, 20,000 feet. Importation of assorted wares amounted to 39,269,651 pounds. Total exportation totalled 43,756 tons. Exportation, including what was handled by ship totalled 12,891 tons, or 2,478,923 pounds of miscellaneous wares; 3,124,539 pounds of wool (this was an
LOS ANGELES, IMPORTS
Assorted wares, pounds
Building materials, feet
Laths, number
Shingles, number
Cross-beams, number
Fence-posts, number
Piles, number
Ties, number
Live-stock, pounds
Total pounds imported
LOS ANGELES, EXPORTS
Assorted wares, pounds
Wool, pounds
Wine, pounds
Grain, pounds
Fruits, pounds
Hides, pounds
Honey, pounds
Asphalt, pounds
Bullion, pounds
Ore, pounds
Mill-products, pounds
Total pounds of exports
IMPORTS, WILMINGTON
Assorted wares, pounds
Building materials, feet
Shingles, number
Cross-beams, number
Fence-posts, number
Live-stock, pounds
Total pounds of imports
EXPORTS, WILMINGTON
Assorted wares, pounds
Wool, pounds
Grain, pounds
Live-stock, pounds
Total pounds of exports
IMPORTS, COMPTON
Assorted wares, pounds
Building materials, feet
Fence-posts, number
Live-stock, pounds
Total imports in pounds
EXPORTS, COMPTON
Assorted wares, pounds
Wool, pounds
Grain, pounds
Potatoes, pounds
Total exports in pounds
IMPORTS, DOWNEY
Assorted wares, pounds
Building materials, feet
Laths, number
Shingles, number
Cross-beams, number
Fence-posts, number
Total imports in pounds
EXPORTS, DOWNEY
Assorted wares, pounds
Wool, pounds
Grain, pounds
Live-stock, pounds
Castor-oil products, pounds
Total pounds of exports
IMPORTS, NORWALK
Assorted wares, pounds
EXPORTS, NORWALK
Assorted wares, pounds
Wool, pounds
Live-stock, pounds
Total pounds of exports
IMPORTS, ANAHEIM
Assorted wares, pounds
EXPORTS, ANAHEIM
Assorted wares, pounds
Wool, pounds
Wine, pounds
Grain, pounds
Honey, pounds
Live-stock, pounds
Asphalt, pounds
Potatoes, pounds
Castor-oil products, pounds
Total exports in pounds
IMPORTS, SAN FERNANDO
Assorted wares, pounds
EXPORTS, SAN FERNANDO
Assorted wares, pounds
Wool, pounds
Honey, pounds
Bullion, pounds
Borax, pounds
Total value of exports in pounds
IMPORTS, SAN GABRIEL
Assorted wares, pounds
EXPORTS, SAN GABRIEL
Assorted wares, pounds
Wool, pounds
Wine, pounds
Grain, pounds
Fruit, pounds
Total exports in pounds
IMPORTS, EL MONTE
Assorted wares, pounds
EXPORTS, EL MONTE
Assorted wares, pounds
Wool, pounds
Grain, pounds
Honey, pounds
Fruit, pounds
Castor-oil, pounds
Hops, pounds
Total pounds of exports
IMPORTS, SPADRA
Assorted wares, pounds
Building materials, feet
Shingles, number
Fence-posts, number
Live-stock, pounds
Total pounds of imports
EXPORTS, SPADRA
Assorted wares, pounds
Wool, pounds
Wine, pounds
Hides, pounds
Honey, pounds
Fruit, pounds
Total pounds of exports
IMPORTS, COLTON
Assorted wares, pounds
Building material, feet
Laths, number
Shingles, number
Cross-beams, number
Grain, pounds
Fence-posts, number
Total pounds of imports
EXPORTS, COLTON
Assorted wares, pounds
Wool, pounds
Wine, pounds
Honey, pounds
Bullion, pounds
Fruit, pounds
Total pounds of exports
OTHER STATIONS WHICH HAVE NO AGENTS
Assorted wares, pounds
Wool, pounds
Grain, pounds
Total pounds of exports
The following are the exports and imports dispatched over the Southern Pacific Railway from January 1 to June 30, 1876, compiled by Dr. Gelcich.
IMPORTS
Building materials, feet
Laths, number
Shingles, number
Cross-beams, number
Fence-posts, number
Coal, pounds
Beef, fattened for market
Beef, slaughtered
Total imports in pounds
Total imports in tons
To this must be added the imports taken from the records of the Southern Pacific and other railroads, of wood, coal, and miscellaneous wares totalling 13,082 tons.
Below is given the total amount from January 1 to June 30, 1876, of 39,167 1/2 tons:
EXPORTS
Beans, pounds
Zweiback, pounds
Brandy, pounds
Olive-oil, pounds
Bullion, bars
Fruit, pounds
Honey, pounds
Hides, pounds
Hops, pounds
Grain, pounds
Hay, pounds
Miscellaneous products
Slaughtered cattle, pounds
Various wares, pounds
Vegetables, pounds
Wool, pounds
Wine, pounds
Total exports in pounds
Total exports in tons
Throughout California, gold is the medium of exchange.
STEAMSHIP, RAILWAY, AND POSTAL SERVICE
SHIPPING is, and always will be, of vital importance to the commerce of Los Angeles. Since the distance from San Pedro to San Francisco by sea is only 400 miles—by rail it is about 500—connection by water is an inestimable advantage. From Santa Monica, the distance being only 360 miles, swift steamers can reach San Francisco almost as quickly as trains.
The entire trade along the Southern Californian coast is in the hands of the Goodall, Nelson & Perkins Steamship Co. This concern has a fleet of ten ships called the Santa Cruz, Kalorama, Monterey, Senator, Orizaba, Mohongo, Ancon, Los Angeles, and Salinas. A tenth has recently been purchased. Five of them are side-wheelers; the others have screw propellers. Sailings are made from San Francisco on alternate days. The Orizaba, Mohongo, Ancon, Senator, and Los Angeles stop regularly at San Pedro and Los Angeles. The Ancon and Orizaba run to San Diego. The Kalorama, Monterey, and Salinas carry freight only. They are all large and comfortable boats, built more like river than ocean steamers owing to the calm weather they encounter. They are usually three-deckers with cabins and broad decks on each side. Prices for transportation are extremely low. From Wilmington to San Fran cisco the fare is only $10, whereas by rail it is $13.
Of late the Pacific Mail Steamship Line has begun to compete with this company, which put their prices down to so low a level that many travel by the Goodall Steamers up and down the
In Los Angeles County there are now 129 miles of railway. The main branch of the Southern Pacific Railway runs for 25 miles north through the San Fernando Valley to where it meets the Sierra Nevada, then pierces the mountains through the Tehachapi Pass, and extends on toward San Francisco. A branch line runs east 35 miles to Spadra. The line running to Anaheim is 22 miles long; another branch swings east to the valley of the Santa Ana River. The line to Wilmington and the coast is 21 miles in length. The Los Angeles and Independence Railway and the Santa Monica line to Los Angeles are 16 miles in length and were completed in 1875. With a terminal for trains at Santa Monica, it makes possible a close connection between rail and steamer. At the present another project is on foot to build a new line across the great desert to Colorado by way of San Gabriel, the Puente Hills, and on east about 85 miles to San Gorgonio and the Cajon Pass. This would tap the mining region of Independence in Lugo County, and connect it with the mines of Southern Utah. Many advantages will be derived from this venture for, since the distance from Ogden to Los Angeles is 250 miles less than toward San Francisco, a portion of the trans-continental traffic would be diverted to Southern California.
Even now, however, the railroads are doing a good business. Indicative of their importance are the following figures of goods carried during 11 months from January 1 to December 1, 1875.
IMPORTS
Los Angeles
Wilmington
Anaheim
San Fernando
Spadra
Colton
Downey
El Monte
Other Stations
Total pounds
Total tons
The total importation of lumber was 6,013,354 feet, an increase of 2,094,000 feet; of assorted wares, 15,712,082 pounds. The greatest movement of wares, 6,786,040, was toward Spadra; San Fernando received 2,070,539 pounds, and Wilmington 2,123,448 pounds.
The road running to San Francisco is not only invaluable for shipping fruit, but is also of great importance for the public at large, because it means competition between sea and rail transportation. Several stage-lines cross the country in various directions. Especially worthy of note is the fact that, since there is now rail connection with San Francisco, postal-service has ceased to Merced, the line passing along the ocean having connections with the various districts near San Francisco.
Movement of mails, as is natural in so highly developed a country, is increasing. According to the records of Postmaster H. K. W. Bent the amount of mails passing through the Los Angeles post-office in 1875 was as follows: In 1875, there arrived and were dispatched daily, 23 bags of mail, and 7 sacks of newspapers. Letters mailed weekly amounted to 10,500, while 250 pounds of news-papers were dispatched. This made a total of 270 pounds weekly. The receipts from the sale of postage-stamps was $15,428. In the
HINTS TO SETTLERS
WHAT advantages agriculture offers to settlers in Southern California has already been indicated. Endless opportunities are constantly arising through the rapid development of new localities which are often put on the map in a few months time. There is ample room, however, for many more settlers and good land in abundance for many years yet to come since new territory is constantly being made available through the development of irrigating systems. In the Los Angeles Valley alone are over half a million acres which can be brought into a high degree of cultivation so that if 10 acres were placed at the disposal of every inhabitant that one valley could hold 50,000 farmers. Not only in fact could it receive them, it could also supply them with every desired article.
No happier paradise for the farmer can be found than Los Angeles County. Imagine a land where, for only 20 or at the most 30 days a year, it is not possible to work outdoors as contrasted with 80 to 120 such days in the eastern states. Summers need not be spent in raising products for man and beast to consume through the winter months; the farmer can devote the entire year to producing one thing after another, being kept in condition by the refreshing days of summer. In addition to the work-horses and cows which need to be fed only for a short period in the year, all cattle, as has been pointed out, live without shelter and without storage feed the year through. This means a material saving in outlay. The farmer, furthermore, can have his house surrounded every month in the year with splendid fruit and glorious flowers.
The advantages of late frosts to the farmer have already been
But not only the fruitfulness of the land where grapes, oil, nuts, and citrus fruit are readily cultivated and where a farmer can easily count on a yearly income of from $150 to $500 an acre, not only the healthful climate which is so significant and so vitally important are enticing settlers, but also the extraordinary security of life and property. The social order is exemplary, and the annals of the local courts can be safely compa red with those of all the other states in the Union. None is better equipped with schools than California—an important factor for every settler who is raising a family.
Living costs are not excessive. Meat is cheap; beef is worth $.10 or $.15 a pound. Cereals are also abundant. A barrel of flour costs $6 or $7; 100 pounds of potatoes, $1; weekly board is $4 to $8, the latter in good hotels and restaurants. At the same time, however, every line of commerce and trade pays high wages. Mines are being constantly exploited where a white man can always earn any time of year as laborer $3 or $4 a day. Mechanics are greatly in demand, receiving the same wages as in San Francisco. Cabinet-makers are paid $4 and $5; bricklayers, $5; plasterers, $6; masons, $5; and blacksmiths, $4 and $5. At the same time the legal working-day is only 8 hours. How much can be earned without undue effort! Money, moreover, can be readily invested advantageously at high rates of interest, 10 per cent being the usual rate, and, at times, 12 per cent can be secured.
For settlers just arriving, the dearly-bought experiences of the pioneers are of inestimable value. For the farmer, the best times of year to arrive and become established are the summer and autumn, since no rains fall from May to November, despite the fact that the country scenically does not appear at its best advantage. However, beneath the dryness and the dust may also be seen the richness of the country since it is at this season that everything is
To come out in colonies is advisable since friends and companionship are of inestimable value during the hard years of pioneering! In this respect, however, California is extraordinary since hospitable people who are glad to welcome neighbors are found everywhere.
A mistake frequently made is to attempt to acquire too much land; 160 acres or at the outside, 200, are adequate for any one settler. The good old motto “Better little land, well-cultivated,” should be put into practice. A careful farmer who cultivates 160 acres, plants 20 of them to oranges, almonds, and olives, who milks his cows, has a good vegetable garden, and cares for his
When in San Francisco it is well to apply to the California Immigrants Union; the officials in charge are responsible men paid by the state who have no personal interests at stake. Whatever is purchased, it is of inestimable satisfaction to know, can be sold at a profit. Usually a buyer can realize twice what he paid since there is considerable activity in sales of land. For those who cannot afford to purchase lands outright considerable land with water can be leased, either for cash, or kind. Not only as farmers, however, does this land offer the settlers a glowing future but also to tradesmen and industrialists as well a fertile field is available. But the man who believes he can pioneer out here in any one field is doomed to disappointment; every line of trade, from the higher to the lowest, is now represented in Los Angeles. Competitors will be found already well established who will have to be conquered by civility and industry.
Before closing this chapter, the comment should be made that California is the best state in the Union for health, wealth and happiness. Cognizant of these advantages, in 1875 no less than 60,000 immigrants entered California. In Los Angeles alone within the past 6 years 8,000 settlers have come in annually.
SOME STATISTICS ON WEALTH IN THE COUNTY
IN 1868, the total property value according to the tax-collectors was $3,764,045; by 1874, it had climbed to $12,332,522; of this amount land and improvements amounted to $8,004,098 and chattles to $4,319,424. This, in round numbers, was an increase in 8 years of 300 per cent. In 1875, it had grown to $15,152,367; of that $10,324,191 was in fixed assets, that is, real estate, in addition to city properties and community holdings, while $4,861,806 was in liquid assets; improvements on the same amounted to $1,042,295; city and community property had a valuation of $3,033,256, improvements on same, $1,357,179, making a total of $4,764,176.
The present tax-rate for the state and county is $1.98 outside and $1.83 within the city; the city tax is $1.10. Up to the present time, the large properties are taxed too dearly and the small too lightly. There are 20 tax-payers in the county whose property has increased from $72,000 to $713,000. The 6 largest landowners are the Los Angeles Land Company, which owns 101,000 acres of land; Irvine Flint and Co., with 77,000; Pioche and Bayerque, 69,000; E. de Celis, 56,000; Beals and Baker, 53,000; James Lick, 51,000. Most of these date back to the old Mexican land grants.
EARLY HISTORY
THE founding of Los Angeles dates back to the second half of the last century. On August 26, 1781, Luis Felipe de Neve, governor of California, issued and edict from Mission San Gabriel, which had already been founded in 1771, for the establishment of a new settlement— El Pueblo de la Reina de Los Angeles.
Of the women, 6 were mulattoes and 5 Indians. One of the settlers was a widow with two children. Among the others, eight had progeny. The adults came from Lower California and were born, with the exception of the two Spaniards and the Chinaman, in Sinaloa and Sonora. The names of these settlers were: Lara, Navarro, Rosas, Mesa, Villavicencia, Vanegas, Rosas, Rodriguez, Camero, Quintero, Moreno, and Rodriguez.
Each family received from the royal treasury two oxen, two mules, two stallions, two sheep, two cows, a calf, a donkey, a pig, and what tools were essential for farming. For these articles, including the cattle, a price was established by the government to every settler in the community and the cost was to be deducted in small installments from their salaries.
In laying out the district, a parallelogram 100 x 75 varas was selected whose lines, instead of pointing toward the four main points of the compass, were set at adjacent angles.varas, together with two plots of a different size. One-half of the parallelogram was reserved, while the other was used for a guard-house for the royal officers, and a dumping-ground. This was located northeast of the present mission church.
At the same time, 30 fields were staked out measuring 100 x 300 varas; these were separated by streets 3 varas wide. These fields lay between the Los Angeles River, which was then known as the Porciúncula, and an irrigation canal that carried water to the settlement and on over to the east side. The land stretching between the river and the canal measured over 120 varas. After the settlement was established, the river cut a new channel on the west side, at the same time washing away the fields or covering them with sand. In 1825, the river again left its course and formed a third channel between the two earlier ones.
For the first fifty years, the population increased very gradually, being augmented only by a few pioneers and soldiers who had been dismissed from service and become settlers. In 1836, Los Angeles for the first time was raised to the rank of a city, and, by an act of the Mexican Congress, was made capital of Alta California.
Shortly after this event, however, war with Mexico ceased and Los Angeles was given over to the Americans.
By the end of the Mexican war Los Angeles had a population of 2,000. Most of the houses at that time were of adobe, comparatively few were of wood, and none were of brick. The streets were crooked and poorly paved. Not until 1853 did the Americans as well as the Europeans begin to feel established and settled, and real progress set in. The first city plan was made at this time by Pacificus Ord; this is still the leading map in the city.
The gold-rush lured so many immigrants to Northern California that Southern California's excellent climate and fertile soil failed for a time to receive the attention they merited. Not until 1867-1868 did the city begin to grow rapidly and show decided progress in the erection of handsome houses. Fine buildings and substantial brick shops, hotels, schools, banks, factories sprang up, at this time, as if by magic. But it is only within recent years that this growth has been so stupendous. From April to September, 1874, estimates show that about $300,000 was expended for business buildings and residences. Even more building was done in 1875; estimates for that year place the building in and around Los Angeles at a total valuation of $95,000. The increase is so rapid that a house is usually rented before the building is started. Naturally, with such an increase in building activity the population has shown a corresponding increase. This, which in 1870 was 5,728, soon grew to 13,000, and is now 16,000.
IN THE UPPER QUARTER OF LOS ANGELES
LOS ANGELES
BEFORE continuing a discussion of Los Angeles, a brief sketch will be given of the fertile Los Angeles Valley. This valley which is 20 miles wide and 50 miles long, runs from northwest to southeast. It is bounded on the northeast by foothills that separate it from the San Fernando and El Monte Valleys, on the southwest by the ocean, and on the northwest by the ocean and foothills. It contains 1,000 square miles, or 640,000 acres. Of this, 160,000 acres are pasture-lands, an equal amount is land suitable for vineyards and semi-tropical fruits, while 320,000 acres are excellent for raising grain. At least 500,000 acres, according to estimates, can be watered. Since it has a gentle slope of 10 feet a mile toward the south, it is admirably adapted to irrigation both by ditches and artesian wells. However, on both banks of the Los Angeles River for some distance back the soil is productive without irrigation. Since the surface is raised only 7 or 8 feet above the river-bed the trees penetrate so deeply through the moist, loose, sandy soil that they find water. Generally speaking, the soil in the Los Angeles Valley is extremely rich being for the most part a fine, sandy clay. There are, indeed, stretches with too much alkali, but this can be overcome by planting beets and other plants that consume considerable potash.
The valley of Los Angeles can easily hold a million inhabitants, although it now supports less than 20,000. Yet the many advantages offered by this newly-discovered region have already been recognized, a fact that accounts for the astounding growth of the city in recent years. Situated as it is in the heart of a fertile
Rising at the foot of gently-sloping hills that tower 60 feet or more above it, Los Angeles spreads out over the southeastern end of the valley, rising partly on the foothills, and partly on the plains reaching southward and extending on over to the west bank of the Los Angeles River—the source of so much of its wealth—to where it breaks through a row of hills 20 miles north of San Pedro. Los Angeles lies in the midst of a sunny garden 7 miles long and 8 in width, a site which is unequalled throughout the United States. In appearance more like a series of gardens and country-places than a compact mass of houses, it covers an a rea of 6 square miles. For purely local reasons, the city, instead of being a consumer is, oddly enough, a producer. The yearly production from land within the city limits is, in fact, so great that it will practically support the entire population.
Viewed from a distance, Los Angeles is entrancing from every angle. Perhaps the best view, however, is that from Mr. Perry's house with its charming garden in the foreground, or from the west end, with the magnificent Sierra looming up in the background.
and Spring streets, are the most important. These are joined on the west by a third called San Pedro Street. The city centers around the plaza; from here it stretches out, following the four main points of the compass, in every direction for what, in the language of the Californians, is known as a Mexican league. This comment,
nevertheless, should not be taken too literally; it is rather, as observed above, a continuous chain of villas and gardens.
In the heart of the city are many board sidewalks which are kept in good condition. Others, however, are made merely of earth packed down, with curbs of wood. This custom of holding in dirt walks by planks is in common us age, in fact even steps and terraces are built in this manner on the hillsides. In front of many of the houses a diagonal section has been paved. Bordering the sidewalks are many peppers,—a tree highly favored for its delicate appearance,—slender eucalypti, castor-bean plants, and frequently the stately, full, weeping-willow. Many trees along the street are boxed with boards. On the side of the street nearest the gardens adobe walls are frequently seen enclosing planting; there are also in evidence willow hedges, trickling zanjas, and century plants.
Among the newer houses appear many stately buildings built of brick, wood, or Mexican adobe. The latter are rapidly disappearing, however, being seen here and there in and near San Pedro Street, the Chinese quarter where most of the oldest houses are located, and especially in Sonoratown where many, badly in need of repairs, recall days gone by. Well up on Main Street, however, may still be seen the house of Doña Arcadia de Baker, a Californian lady living in Los Angeles who is the owner of Laguna.
Many of the houses are quite comfortable although most of them have been left in an unfinished state. Frequently ivy is trained over the corners, its dark green foliage contrasting in a pleasing manner with the dark red buildings. The majority of the houses on Main Street have wooden porches supported by rough timbers.
Many of the houses stand back from the street, and are not only surrounded by small gardens but also have gardens out in front. These are very nicely laid out and, thanks to adequate piping, are so thoroughly watered that even in midsummer they have patches of green turf. In many instances the paths are stone-paved and the grass bordered with stone. In certain houses an outside stairway leads directly from the gardens to the upper floor.
Numerous pepper trees are seen in these gardens, as well as the popular eucalyptus. Frequently, too, are seen formal plantings of tall cypresses, together with almond and orange trees. The Araucaria excelsa and the Ficus elastica flourish
everywhere.
Adjoining the houses of the more prosperous citizens and even close to the finest dwellings are often seen low wooden houses made of overlapping planks such as Americans use for laying roofs, and which have only one door, or a door and a few windows.
The city is lighted by gas. Opposite the Pico House is a small gas-plant that supplies the lamps; at the end of Aliso St reet where Central Street branches off there is also a gas-plant. The plaza, on which the Catholic mission church and the Pico House face, forms the beginning of Main Street. At the plaza is a circular garden with a high central fountain, enclosed within an iron railing. Main Street is the most animated of the three principal streets of Los Angeles and has the finest buildings. On it, too, stands the City Hall, an ugly building that has 11 windows on one façade
The third and longest street which is south of Main Street also begins near the plaza, in the vicinity of Calle de Los Negros with its dilapidated old houses, and is called Calle de San Pedro. It is dirtier and dustier than either of the others. Fairly broad where it begins, it gradually becomes narrower. On the right-hand side is a large shop built of bricks. Several of its houses have porches, some of them being quite extensive, with upper balconies. The tram runs past these and on down to the Santa Monica Station of the Los Angeles and Independence Railway, an elaborate renaissance structure with two towers, that resembles a church far more than a railroad. It contrasts sharply with the other station in Los Angeles—that of the Southern Pacific Railway.
Behind the City of Los Angeles stretches, as remarked above, a row of hills. On these, houses are already beginning to rise. These
A new street leads past the school-house to the summit of the hills, where, on the right, are four comparatively new houses. The hill that rises directly at the rear of the plaza has the form of a cupola, and is crowned by several houses. Its summit commands a magnificent view of Sonoratown and the Sierra. Behind it is a small valley, then a second spur of hills and another valley. Here the “cupolas” of Los Angeles, bending toward the east and west disappear from sight. A miniature valley extending as far as the eye can see, known as La Cañada de Antonio Ignacio, runs from east to west behind the low hills extending out from Los Angeles. From here the hills rise again for a third time, being crowned again by several houses. Back of this is a valley separating the chain of troughs through which, over a small wooden bridge, run water pipes. Below is a water-reservoir, or kind of pond. On the far side of the tiny valley rises a semi-circle of gent ly-sloping hills, heavily eroded. These hills form an extensive ridge. Nearby is Charity Street, with its neat little villas surrounded by eucalypti, that commands a splendid view.
Angeles.
Los Angeles is the seat of the county government and now has, as already said, a population of 16,000. These are about equally divided between Americans, Europeans, and Californians. Americans and Europeans, however, have given the greatest impetus to the present development. The former own the most houses and land in the city; the latter control the bulk of the commerce. In this latter branch the Irish and Germans have also been notably successful. The native Californians, on the other hand, have gone in largely for ranching, sheep-herding, and the raising of vineyards and orange trees. Despite the cosmopolitan nature of the inhabitants—on the streets are heard spoken English, French, Spanish, German, and Italian—the community spirit predominates, being strengthened by a mutual interest in the city's advancement. Largely for this reason, despite the many
Even now there are any number of wealthy men; ex-Governor John G. Downey, an Irishman by birth, is considered to possess the greatest wealth.
Owing to the mixed population in Los Angeles, there are naturally many denominations. These, however, have so much mutual tolerance that they work with the utmost energy to build churches side by side. Of these, the Catholics, as already said, have the strongest following. In addition to chapels and educational institutions, they have erected two public churches.
What is known as the Los Angeles Mission was established shortly after the pueblo was founded, for the benefit of the Spanish soldiers in the new settlement.Reyna de Los Angeles ruega por nosotros. On the inner side of the façade is the inscription, Los Fieles de esta Parroquia a la Reyna de los Angeles 1861. Nearby stands the parish house surrounded by a small garden. Also facing on the plaza is a wooden house with a double veranda surmounted by a cross. Formerly a public school, it is now a private residence. As a result of the rapid increase in population, there has also been built on Main Street a splendid cathedral. This was recently completed in 1876 at a cost of $80,000.Deo optimo maximo ) in the center. Each side of the two sections has a double railing across the front surmounted by statues representing the four prophets. In the center is a rose with a niche on either side. On the frieze is inserted in gold lettering the dedication: “ Dicata subinvocatione Sanctæ Vibianæ Virginis et Martyris A.D. 1876.” Three doors, separated by ornamental pilasters, lead into the airy interior. The main floor is surmounted by a gable, the two side portals by broken arches. At the sides, the church has eight supporting columns; at the rear is an octagonal-shaped tower, surmounted by a
belfry.
The St. Athanasius Episcopal Church is located at the corner of Temple and New High (Hill) Streets. It has a congregation of 30 members. The Methodist Church on Fourth Street is a large wooden, Gothic edifice and has what is a characteristically church-like tower on the right that is surmounted by a pointed helmet. This church numbers 192 members and has a Sunday School attendance of 190 more.
The Methodist Church South, which was organized about three years ago with only 10 members, now has a congregation of 65. These members have built a good church and support a Sunday School.
The Methodist Negroes Church is at the summit of the hill near Charity Street.
The Presbyterian Church is on the right hand side of Hill Street near the Episcopal Church, and, though organized only two years ago with 15 members, now has 143 in its congregation. Their first meetings were held in Good Templars Hall on Main Street. In their Sabbath School are over 100 children.
The Congregational Church is on New High (Hill) Street and has 65 members; the Sunday School has an attendance of 90 children.
On Spring Street is the German Evangelist Church which is also used by the Baptists. This was organized in Los Angeles in 1874 by four members. In 1875 the pastor resigned and since that time it has been without a minister. The church now has 30 members and a Sunday School of 40 children.
In Los Angeles there is also a Christian sect. This congregation, as it is only nine months old, has no church as yet in Los Angeles, having only 30 members. To offset this, at Downey City this group has a church of 114 members which has many supporters along the Santa Ana River. They are planning, furthermore, to establish a church at Orange.
Lastly, there is the B'nai B'rith, with some 60 members.
On the right hand side of Fourth Street is the Jewish Church, a brick building with a hideous Gothic facade. The service begins on Sabbath, Friday evening, and ends Saturday evening. Sunday School is held Sunday morning; every Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday the children receive lessons in Hebrew.
Several fraternal organizations are established in Los Angeles: The Odd Fellows lodge, the strongest secular organization in California; two Masonic lodges, besides a chapter and a council of higher degree; two Redmen's clubs; one of Knights of Pythias; one each of Good Templars, Sons of Temperance, and Champion of the Red Cross; a Jewish, a French, and an Irish benevolent society; a Turner-Verein; a French hospital; and a home under the auspices of the Sisters of Charity.
Private instruction may be had at Lawler Institute, a Catholic College for boys, and at a girls' school under the direction of the Sisters. The Catholic College, St. Vincent's, is situated in the west end of town in a pleasant garden. It is a large, ugly building with 7 windows and a gable in front surmounted by a cross and ball.
Similar in architecture and general arrangement is the Sisters' School which is out in the east end of the city.
Of all the public schools, the high school is unquestionably one of the outstanding buildings in the city.
Because of its favorable situation, it is visible from afar, standing out conspicuously above the orchards and city. This imposing building, which cost $39,000, is a two-story wooden structure with 10 windows both front and rear, some projecting additions, and a clock-tower. On either side of the entrance flights of steps rise. The building itself contains cloakrooms for the pupils and 8 large, airy schoolrooms equipped with substantial benches manufactured in Illinois. Slate black-boards used for writing and drawing are hung on the walls; these are covered with selected proverbs. The school has four grades, the two highest being upstairs. Out in front is a flagpole and wooden steps leading down the steep hill into the city.
The Los Angeles Public Library is in the Downey Block and belongs to a company that was organized in 1872. First opened in 1873, it now numbers about 400 members. Two Thousand volumes have already been placed on its shelves while a full supply of the best magazines, reviews, illustrated journals, and eastern and foreign newspapers and publications is to be found on its tables. The membership fee is $250; the dues are $.50 a month, or $5 a year. Every member may take out 2 volumes at the same time. Strangers are permitted to use the rooms; however, they cannot take out books without becoming members. The rooms are open every afternoon, including Sundays, and every evening, from seven to
Several newspapers are published here in Los Angeles. The most widely circulated of all are the daily and weekly Herald, the Star, and the Express. The first is a morning paper; the latter are evening publications. Both put out extra editions. The School-master, a weekly, is the organ of the public schools of the county. The Mirror is published once a week and is distributed gratuitously by the Mirror Office. The New Italy, a monthly, is published in Los Angeles by the Immigration and Co-operative Association. This sheet contains many notices about the country as a whole, especially the outlying estates in whose interests it is published. The Southern California Post, a weekly, has a good circulation, especially among the German population in all parts of the city and country. The Chronicle, published semi-weekly, is widely circulated in California, Arizona, New Mexico, the Central South American countries, and even in Spain.
Comfortable accommodations for strangers have been amply provided in Los Angeles. There are several hotels which are generally filled to capacity during the winter season by travellers who come out to enjoy the mild climate of Southern California.
The best of these is the Pico House, which, like all the four leading hotels, is down on Main Street.
Next in importance to the Pico House is the Clarendon Hotel. This has 120 rooms—25 are elaborate suites with bath—and is illuminated with gas. The Lafayette Hotel has 100 rooms and baths. The United States Hotel has 74 rooms, costing $40,000 to build and $20,000 to furnish.
One particular section of Los Angeles is known as Sonora, so-called because most of its inhabitants were originally from Sonora in Old Mexico. This, which is the Californian quarter of Los Angeles, extends north from the Catholic Mission Church on out through the valley. Behind Sonora rise low hills thick with no-pale. The city is traversed in this quarter by four main streets. Of these, one is very broad. All in all, however, this region has a shabby appearance, even though it has several good adobe houses with flat asphalt roofs, a few that are roofed with tile, and several with shingle roofs.
Sonoratown has two tramways. One of these runs down the center of the broadest street toward the Catholic cemetery; the other after crossing the wide bed of the Los Angeles River via a wooden bridge, runs over into East Los Angeles. From the opposite bank of the river, where castor-beans grow rankly, the view over the Los Angeles Valley with its green alder-bushes is magnificent.
Here, high up on the gently rolling ground, are scattered the houses that comprise East Los Angeles. This is a comparatively new part of the city, but it will soon develop into one of its finest sections. Subdivided by ex-Governor Downey, Dr. Griffin, and his nephew, Hancock Johnston, elaborate plans have been made for its development; 170 acres were set aside from Dr. Griffin's 2,000-acre ranch for the creation of East Los Angeles.
The streets of Los Angeles fairly teem with activity. Because of the mixed population, they are always colorful and interesting. Street-cars cross the principal streets and travel according to the American custom, down to the terminus, returning in the opposite direction. On the streets numerous vehicles and carriages are seen—four-seated carriages with heavy springs, light American vehicles, and frequently, small carriages driven by Chinese. In Los Angeles, the Americans usually drive in place of riding horse-back. Many riders, however, are in evidence, for the Spaniards, Frenchmen, and Italians prefer riding to driving. Spanish boys are often seen galloping gaily. Young Californians, brown as Arabs, also ride by, sometimes stopping their horses near the fruit-stores and then galloping rapidly away, followed by their bull-dogs, up the dusty streets.
A gay crowd of men and animals is constantly coming and going on the streets. Innumerable bronze-colored half-breeds from the Mexican province of Sonora wearing plug hats on their dusky heads, tanned Scotchmen in straw helmets, distinguished Spaniards in riding clothes, and animated, laughing girls in large cotton capes and broad straw hats pass by. Upon passing on down the streets strange sights are constantly encountered: barber shops where customers stretch out nonchalantly; elevated seats where men lean back smoking cigarettes while their shoes are being polished; Chinese laundries bearing strange inscriptions advertising their activities; political notices posted from one end of the street SONORA AND THE MOUNTAIN RANGES
In summer, the dust is distinctly disagreeable; however, in the morning the streets are frequently watered from sprinkling-carts. The dust on the sidewalks is settled by using a hose attached to water connections inside the house.
In the evenings, the Californians often congregate on horseback just beyond Sonoratown for contests. In one of these they ride under an arch and try to catch a ring on a lance. This game which is called Las Argollas is a relic of Spanish times when the game was exceedingly popular.
Only two public gardens, in addition to the small city gardens previously mentioned, exist in the city. One of these, which is at the terminus of the Spring Street car-line, is called Washington Garden.
Out beyond in the same general direction (this will soon be connected by tramway) after passing several windmills, a second garden, called the race-track, or Agricultural Park, is located.
In conclusion several of the most important properties in Los Angeles will be described. On San Pedro Street is the orchard of Mr. Wolfskill; this comprises 130 acres and has both young and old orange trees, nurseries, and two acres of thirty-year walnut strees.
On the west side of the street are Elijah H. Workman's 7 acres—a property that has both a pleasant view and a fine assortment of productive fruit trees. Next comes George Dalton's superb vineyard, a vineyard that produces annually from 3,000 to 8,000 gallons of wine. On his grounds are raised many fine walnuts. For purposes of irrigation a mill has been erected. Not far beyond lies the Frohling garden, with rows of flourishing orange trees—and an extensive vineyard surrounded by a white-washed board fence.
On west from here is Rubio's large garden and nursery; this has
On upper Aliso Street is T. Jefferson White's “Casalinda,” a fine fruit garden filled with flourishing nut trees and two large weeping-willows. Near Mr. White's grounds are 12 acres belonging to J. D. Woodworth, who paid $1,000 an acre for his land only a short time ago. He has a magnificent orchard of oranges and lemons as well as the oldest vineyards in the city of Los Angeles. Among his vines are 2,000 ninety years old; from each of these vines he gathers 70 pounds of grapes.
Mention should also be made of the young orange trees of ex-Governor Downey, and the new grove of Beaudry—a circular grove in the hills back of Sonoratown, surrounded by a hedge of eucalypti—who has also set out several groves of eucalypti. This property has a windmill and large containers for storing water. Not far away stand the two large city reservoirs. Beyond are Colonel Norvan C. Jone's “Inverness” of 48 acres, which is bounded on three sides by Kohler, Wolfskill, and Bexas Streets. On Los Nietos Street is a station; the city stretches out only to the foot of this new quarter.
Dr. Matthew Keller's garden of 75 acres on Alameda Street also merits mention. Keller, who was one of the early settlers, has done much for the grape industry, which he has developed on a large scale. Among wines made by him are the following; claret, port, white wine, madeira, sherry, and angelica. To prepare them he has purchased a complete equipment of presses, distilleries, and miscellaneous equipment. His wines are exported in large quantities and his products have an enviable reputation on the market. He also raises cotton and tobacco.
A DRIVE ALONG THE LOS ANGELES RIVER
MEMORIES of the past, of the early days of the Indians and Californians, are vividly recalled by driving along the broad, almost waterless bed of the Los Angeles River through country that is still virgin, uninhabited, and where the silence of Nature is unbroken. Even the names of this river's tributaries hark back to the remote past: El Alamo, the Pacoima, the Tuhunga, Los Verdugos, and, lastly, on the left, the Arroyo Seco. The latter, although called the Dry Brook, presents the gravest danger, because of its floods, to Los Angeles. This, however, is somewhat protected by a stone hill, La Toma (so-called from the waters that drain off and from whose sheer sides slabs of stone are extracted to be utilized in the city).
Not only the rivers but also the mountains bear fantastic Californian names. The high chain stretching to the Arroyo Seco is called La Cordillera de los Verdugos.La Calera where chalk is mined.Tuhunga, Pacoima, Las Palomas, El Alomar, and the San Francisquito ranges.Cordillera de los Verdugos, followed by the San Gabriel, Santa Anita, Azusa, San Dimas, San Antonio, and Cucamonga, and lastly, the Cańon de los Negros and San Bernardino ranges.Arroyo Seco on the right, the river-bed disappears behind a range of hills that separate it from the main valley. On the left, a wooded, gently sloping hill comes into view; this marks the beginning of Rancho de los Verdugos. To the right of the Los Angeles River, on whose banks many graceful willows attain an extraordinary height, rises a striking group of mountains, El Potrero de los Felizes, topped by a peak called Portesuelo de Cahuenga.El Muerte de Pedro Feliz, after a man who was murdered in 1837 by his wife and her lover under tragic circumstances. The wife, who was riding horseback ahead of her husband according to local custom, suddenly seized his feet, pulling him off his horse. By dragging him behind her she gave her lover, Don Manuel Raquena, an opportunity to follow and kill the unfortunate Don Pedro with a stone. The thick evergreen oaks covering the adjacent hills may have aided, perhaps, in concealing this scene of murder. Even now when the bright sun smiles down on the wooded slope, this tragic tale is recalled only with horror.
The country studded with alders on the flat banks of the river is called La Talaya.Potrero de los Felizes Los Pescaditos, where, at one time, brook trout were found in large numbers.Cordillera Tuhunga, crowned by the stately Sierra Madre. Continuing on to the right the way leads to Portesuelo, with its cornfields and scattered houses, then past the Cañada de Francisco María, so-called from a treacherous Indian who lived down in a gully and was greatly feared by his neighbors.Cañada de los Verdugos. Julio Verdugo was the creator of these charming gardens.
Upon our arrival we were greeted by the inmates with the warmest hospitality. A child on horseback—Californians are trained to ride from infancy—brought us a chair while a small boy without reins or saddle galloped by on a sorrel horse. After we were seated together with these brown, half-Indian faces under a pear tree heavy with fruit, a man brought out two knives and served us splendid watermelons. These were genuinely refreshing on a hot day. The frank hospitality with which this was offered put us quite at our ease and left the impression that, under these bronze-colored countenances, Spanish blood surged. After describing what fine products were raised in their gardens, and how they were marketed in Los Angeles—they also raise apples to dry—they spoke wistfully of life in the past and of the days when there was great freedom. They live quite simply and have only three small wooden houses.
Having left this delightful spot, a valley was reached where directly ahead rose the mysterious Piedra Gorda, the goal of our journey.Ciénega del Garvanza, a small green swamp with clumps of bunch-grass and at the bottom, Sacate de Matico, which never dries out.Piedra Gorda, a wilderness of luxuriant vegetation that forms an almost impenetrable thicket, often the haunt of wild beasts. The Piedra Gorda, towering above, is an imposing rock of granite conglomerates on one side with exposed parallel strata having two sharply defined hollows in which swallows have built their nests. It was also used at one time by the Indians as a natural bulwark, a rock fortress. Since, from this point, a fine view off across the horizon as far as Los Angeles may be had, this spot was an excellent
After leaving the Piedra Gorda and crossing over a low saddle of hills, the Aguaje del Garvanza is reached.Ramita ceniza.Cañada Grande, the broad extensive Mesa of San Rafael is reached where yellow-brown hills stretch out towards San
Gabriel.El Valle de la Rosa de Castilla, watered by a brook of the same name that has an outlet in the Laguna de Monterey is reached.tierra arrastrada.
The road leading from here to San Gabriel Mission swings toward the right through gently rolling hills and on past the railroad leading to San Bernardino. In the background tower the impressive Cucamonga Mountains.
Where the brook dwindles off into a swamp is the Portesuelo de la Rosa de Castilla.Puente de la Viejas.La Loma Alta.Las Positas, the road to San Gabriel is reached, and, later, Los Angeles.
RANCHO DE LA LAGUNA
ONE of the most interesting drives in the vicinity of Los Angeles, a drive where glimpses may be also had of early California, is that leading to Rancho de la Laguna. On the way to this rancho the road leads past Perry's house, noted for its fine view out over Los Angeles, and across gardens filled with vineyards and orange trees, which have already been mentioned, and which, with its projecting balconies, airy verandas, and orange garden fenced in with pickets is one of the finest places in the vicinity of Los Angeles. After passing a charming cottage and travelling on across rolling hills, the road continues along the banks of the Los Angeles River that serves as a boundary-line for the orchards. The ground is undulating and most of the houses passed are built on knolls. Occasionally down in gulches are found springs. After crossing one unusually deep ravine the road emerges onto an extensive hill that commands a vast view off across the plains where the distant mountain peak of San Pedro looms against the horizon. From this point the road redescends gradually to the plains. Glancing off into the far distance only an occasional ranch, clumps of trees, or the dust of a travelling vehicle is seen to break the monotony of the landscape. At the base of the hill where the plain begins, a river with a dry sandy bed is crossed, and at this point the road continues on to Los Nietos. Another road, however, turns to the right and leads to the Rancho de la Laguna where the early Californian ranch-house with the mountains in the background makes a charming picture.
Despite the presence of the lagoon, the air on the ranch is not harmful and is even said, in winter, to be mild and balmy. Having visited for a time with the sunburned inhabitants on this remote ranch—being Californians they were typically amiable and hospitable—we departed reluctantly from this enchanting spot so reminiscent of early California.
THE FERTILE SAN GABRIEL VALLEY
EVERY traveller who comes to Los Angeles should not fail to visit the old mission of San Gabriel and its magnificent orchards. Lying between the foothills that define one side of the Los Angeles Valley and the main chain of the Sierra Madre is a series of valleys known as the San Fernando, El Monte, San Gabriel, and Chino Valleys.
Of these, the first to be considered is the San Gabriel Valley. The fruit-bearing lands of the San Gabriel Valley, which are celebrated far and wide, stretch from southwest to northeast, being about 2 miles wide and 10 in length. On the western end these merge into low-lying hills; toward the east for a distance of some twenty miles stretches a level area. On the north end of this valley tower the somber Sierras. The soil here is varied in consisting of grayish, porous, sandy, gravel-surfaced soil and a black, sticky clay. Both kinds of soil are, however, equally productive if given ample water.
The trip out to San Gabriel can be made either by the Los Angeles and Independence Railway, or by carriage. The latter is
Once having passed beyond the section that is irrigated, the region seems very dry. On the right stretching toward the hills lies a little valley where an old distillery is located. From here the view off across the sparkling Los Angeles Valley with its superb background of mountains is magnificent. A plank bridge thrown over a small gully leads to a point where a fine view may be had beyond the upper end of the bed of the Los Angeles River and from there to a flat stretch surrounded by low hills, which serves as the home and playground of innumerable ground-squirrels. In fact these tiny animals, as well as many flocks of sheep, are constantly met along the road. In a gulch on the right is Griffin's Ranch with its many gardens, enclosed by eucalypti, containing almond and fruit trees of every variety and watered by wells pumped by windmills. After crossing the tracks clumps of prickly-pears forming green patches and occasional sun-burned Californians are all that
Upon arriving, on the left is seen the depot near the church, some adobe houses with shingle roofs, young orange groves, a boarding-house surrounded by alders and peppers, a few small wooden houses on a dusty street, and finally, the mission. This is conspicuous because of its six-bell arch and the 10 outer columns. Within, on either side, are seen 7 supporting pillars, exposed ceiling scaffolding, and walls thick with dust. Above the entrance rises the tower. A simple wooden chancel, an altar dating back to the rococo era surmounted by a madonna and several wooden benches form the solitary decorations inside the church. On the right appear two small side-doors and on the left a large arched door recessed into the church wall, the door being studded with large round copper nails. Over the arched portal has been placed a small niche for holding a statue. Out in front is an outer stairway having an arched door. This has two pillars at the sides, railings in the center, and, above, an iron balcony that forms the
Connected with the church by a vine-covered pergola is a parish house. The resident priest proved to be a Catalonian who escorted us to the home of his oldest parishioner, Eulalia Arrila de Perez. Across from the parish house, whose entrance is marked by a tall palm, is the mission garden where refreshing groups of olives and peppers, great nut-trees, pomegrantes, rows of lemon and orange trees, and giant cedars like those found in Corfu grow luxuriantly side by side. Over all reigns a peaceful, sunny silence. So strongly reminiscent is it of the land of Southern Europe that it creates an ardent longing to settle permanently in this peaceful, restful corner of the hemisphere.
The missionaries in the early days displayed extraordinary acumen and foresight in their choice of locations for new settlements. In their selection they stressed above all else a fine view, protection from sharp winds, good soil, and the proximity of water—these four conditions being given prime consideration. What was further achieved was accomplished in the course of time with the aid of the thousands of neophytes they had at their disposal. The missions, as a matter of fact, have formed the basis of flourishing settlements, many of these having developed into important cities.
In few places, however, are these four basic conditions so admirably combined as in San Gabriel. The air is far purer here than in Los Angeles, the winds are milder, and the soil and climate it can be truthfully said, are almost perfect. Though San Gabriel has failed to grow into a city, yet in the neighborhood of the mission have been developed some of the finest properties in the county. Of these, among the most important are the estates of L. J. Rose, Hon. B. D. Wilson, Colonel E. J. C. Kewen, and General George Stoneman, all four of whom have princely holdings. J. De B. Shorb, F. Bacon, Colonel Winston, White, L. H. Titus, W. S. Chapman, Messenger, Tallant, Volney E. Howard, and others
Of several of the more important estates a brief description will now be given beginning with the estate of Mr. Rose, President of the Southern District Agricultural Society. This is reached by leaving the mission and crossing a sun-baked plain where the Sierra looms up in the distance. Here and there are passed frame or adobe houses surrounded by various plants such as tobacco. Then, following a road leading past several live-oaks and over a gully, the traveller finally emerges on a plain planted out to grain, maize, and tobacco. After passing a large vineyard, Mr. Rose's estate, “Sunny Slope,” is reached. The approach to the house is toward the east through an avenue almost a mile long, that is formed by a double row of strong nine-year-old orange trees. At the end, on a small knoll, stands the house surrounded by verandas and shaded by great peppers, sturdy eucalypti,—one of these is 7 feet in circumference and 90 feet high—figs, almonds, and walnut trees. Mr. Rose acquired this property about 16 years ago; then, to secure water rights, increased his holdings by purchasing about 2,000 acres of the Santa Anita Ranch. This purchase enabled him to create within this length of time one of the finest places in the country. In so doing he found that the sandy soil and the fact that a constant stream of water flows here throughout the summer season were of invaluable assistance. Over a hundred years ago the missionaries built the dam, now on his property, through the narrow part of the brook, and brought water through an outlet ditch over into a reservoir which is only a short distance above Mr. Rose's house. Although this is no longer standing the dam has been preserved and is now used by Mr. Rose, who brings the water through a main channel up to the knoll where the house stands, distributing it from this main point in every direction. To
In addition to these orange groves and vineyards, Mr. Rose has walnut trees and fruit orchards. In 1875, he marketed 250,000 oranges, 50,000 lemons, and 25,000 pounds of nuts, as well as apples, pears, peaches, figs, nectarines, apricots, and olives. He makes his own orange boxes and wine kegs. The stables are reached—Mr. Rose also has famous stables and raises beautiful horses—by passing again through groves of oranges and olives, more vineyards, and another garden. All hay and oats consumed on the place are grown by the owner.
The most easterly property in the fruit belt is the Santa Anita Ranch of some 8,000 acres which lies directly east of Rose's “Sunny Slope.” This ranch, which totals close to 8,000 acres, contains primarily groves of timber and orange orchards. It also
After leaving Mr. Rose's stables the route leads past many thriving orange-groves. On both sides of the road young groves have been planted out in the porous soil. Frequently between rows of trees corn is seen growing. Many of these fields are bordered by rows of eucalypti. Flying in and out of these Spanish gardens are often seen blue-winged crows and gleaming black birds.
From a hill crowned by evergreen oaks where Mr. De Barth Shorb lives may be had a splendid view off across the vast valley dotted with the vineyards, orange groves, and apple, pomegranate, nut, and other fruit-trees that thrive so abundantly in this land of promise. After passing a vast vineyard and orange-grove, the flourishing ranch owned by Mr. Wilson, known as Lake Vineyard, is reached on the right side of the road at the western end of the vineyard and orchard.Fulicas float among the many weeds.
A section of Lake Vineyard has passed into the hands of DeBarth Shorb, Mr. Wilson's son-in-law, and is known as Mount Vineyard. On this the aforementioned house was built. Mr. Shorb's property is watered by an irrigation system 3 miles long where drains of hollow tile were used. Lake Vineyard has 1,300
Directly west of Lake Vineyard, on the mesa about 200 feet above the valley proper, lies Oak Knoll, an estate with a large vineyard which is irrigated by 3,000 feet of four-inch pipes equipped with hydrants at convenient intervals; 1,500 acres of this ranch are planted out to grain; large herds of cattle and fine horses are also raised.
Adjoining this is Colonel E. J. C. Kewen's garden, “The Mill,” ( Rancho del Molino ), a miniature paradise where the soil is so rich that even without water it bears extraordinarily abundant crops. The house, which was once an old storehouse and granary erected 100 years ago by the Franciscans of Mission San Gabriel, has walls 5 feet thick.
Out in the country beyond Kewen's orchard, after passing any number of babbling brooks, extensive vineyards and, now and again, and a frame or adobe house, General George Stoneman's estate, with its small duck pond and little house shaded by great green oaks is finally reached.
Twenty-eight years ago General Stoneman, who was at that time a lieutenant, came out to California and camped on the site of his present estate. About 5 years ago he purchased 500 acres at $50 an acre, sold 100 acres for $100, and from the balance created the splendid estate which is called Los Robles. From wells and streams—the General intends later to breed trout—a daily flow of 800,000 gallons of water is secured. On his estate are 100,000 grapevines from which, in 1873, were made 20,000 gallons each of wine and brandy. Since all his equipment is new, the General has installed a modern wine-press and a distillery run by steam for making brandy, which is arranged in a series of levels so that the wine from the time it leaves the fermenting and crushing machines down to the time it is made ready for market, travels in a series of falls which materially lessen the labor in its preparation. The General has 100 orange and nut trees in full bearing, figs, pomegranates, olives, pears, peaches, plums, cherries, nectarines, almonds, apricots and lemons, as well as several kinds of bananas that have been introduced, and an excellent vegetable garden. Especially famous is his rose-tree that has a trunk of 15 inches thick, a height of 8 feet, and a crown which has reached up 20 feet into the air while its branches almost touch the ground.
A little valley lies beyond his property, a valley thick with alders. Here, as throughout this land wherever water is present, vegetation flourishes. Without it, the country is parched and lifeless. Occasionally, grounds dotted with fine oaks and fenced with pickets are passed along the road. This, all in all, is a pleasant, thriving, rolling country. A superb view of the mountains may be had on the return trip, from a gap made by the channel of the Los Angeles River, which presents a picture of tranquil, classic beauty. Further along, on the left, is passed a wooded hill where squirrels scamper under live oaks and a valley where oaks and alders intertwined with wild grapes grow in bacchic abandon. Upon descending to the bed of the Arroyo Seco, such wild plantscereus and other indigenous species are encountered and, when crossing over the dry river bottom, the wild pointed-leaf melon.
Bordering on the Arroyo Seco is an important settlement promoted by the San Gabriel Orange Association and known as the Indiana Colony.Toma, where the water flows out of granite formation, is brought by a ditch into a basin and from there piped down to the reservoir. The reservoir and pipes have cost $20,000, the former being located at least 60 feet above the highest point in the company's land. This property, which was purchased at prices ranging from $8 to $66 an acre, has a great future.
What can be accomplished even without water is amply shown in “Fair Oaks,” the estate of Benjamin J. Eaton, 12 miles northeast
After leaving Sycamore Grove restaurant the valley widens. In the neighboring gulches grow many alders and both kinds of prickly pear, while on the right thickly overgrown with alders, is the broad gravel-strewn bed of the Los Angeles River. From this point a view off across the entire valley bounded by undulated hills is visible. A short distance beyond, a brick-kiln is passed. Next is reached Downey Avenue in East Los Angeles. This is served by a tramway which, as previously remarked, crosses the broad, almost waterless bed of the Los Angeles River on a long wooden bridge. After passing on the right the railway that comes in from the San Fernando Valley and on the left some handsome palms, the city is reached by coming in on Alameda Street.
THE MOST IMPORTANT SETTLEMENTS IN THE COUNTY
SAN FERNANDO is among the most important settlements in the county. This is a settlement that has grown up around the seventeenth mission established which was named for King Ferdinand III of Castile. Funds to erect this mission were supplied by King Carlos IX of Spain and the Marques of Branciforte.Achois Comihabit. The location is healthful and, since it is only 20 miles in from the sea, the heat is tempered by breezes. The country, furthermore, has an ample supply of artesian well water, the canyons and banks of brooks contain large numbers of oaks, alders, and cedars, while only a short distance up in the mountains are vast areas of white pine, spruce, and redwood. When the mission was in its prime, it had many outlying buildings which are now, however, fast falling into ruins. The central building, used by the fathers and their servants is still standing and is in an excellent state of preservation. At the present it is being used by General Andrés Pico for a dwelling.
The San Fernando Valley, or ranch as it is more usually called, contains 121,542 acres. When the missions were secularized it became the property of the Mexican government coming under the control of the governors of California. To secure revenues to ward off encroachment on the part of the Americans, Governor Pico sold it to Don Eulogio De Célis for $14,000. Ten years later, however, Don Andrés Pico bought half of it, including gardens and half the buildings, for $15,000. A few years ago, his half was purchased by several men acting under the name of the San Fernando Farm Homestead Association, formed by a certain Senator Maclay. This half of the 59,550 acres was sold for $115,000 and did not include the gardens and 1,000 acres adjoining it, which were kept by Don Andrés Pico.
Mention should be made at this point of the Encino Ranch of 4,400 acres, 3,300 of which, belonging to Eugene Garnier, were formerly part of the San Fernando Ranch. Garnier is a sheep-grower on an extensive scale. In the past few years he has spent $18,000 for French merinos and as much as $700 for one single ram. He also purchased 60 French merinos at $200 apiece. At the state fair in 1867, he bought 4 French merinos for $1600 and 4 Spanish merinos for $800. Mr. Garnier employs a steady force of 20 men. During the season, these men shear from 35 to 50 sheep a day. He is reputed to raise the best wool in the county. For his workers there has been built a two-story boarding and lodging house. This has a fine well in conjunction where the cattle are watered.
San Fernando is noted not only as a wealthy wool and petroleum center, but also because of its tunnel, which has made possible direct rail connection between Los Angeles and the network of American railways, and which lies some 28 miles beyond Los Angeles. This tunnel was not cut through one main mountain but traverses a series of hills and valleys. It extends from north to
Duarte, a new settlement of 2,500 acres about 15 miles from Los Angeles, has had an extraordinarily rapid development. Its boundaries run from where it skirts the foothills on its northern end to where it slopes gently down toward the south, there merging finally into El Monte.
East of Duarte lies the Azusa Ranch, a place recently thrown open to agriculture.
El Monte, one of the oldest American settlements, is located 12 miles east of Los Angeles on the Southern Pacific Railway.
Downey City, on the Anaheim Branch of the Southern Pacific Railway, 12 miles beyond Los Angeles, is the loading point for a large part of the Los Nietos district, 150,000 bushels of grain being shipped out annually.
The district of Los Nietos spreads over 8 or 10 square miles. Six years ago it had only a few adobe houses; now, on the contrary, it controls 7 public school districts, all having good school-houses, erected at a cost of from $1,000 to $4,000 apiece.
Spadra, lying between two rows of hills some 25 miles beyond Los Angeles, is at present the terminus of the Southern Pacific Railway.San José and, nearby, San José Rancho, with its 24,000 acres of which Louis Philipps and H. Dalton own 8,000 acres each, the heirs of Ignacio Palomares holding the balance. This, which consists of alternate stretches of hills and flat lands, at the present time is being used exclusively for raising cattle; however, if divided, it would prove well-adapted to agriculture, especially fruit growing. On the ranch several schools are located.
The Santa Ana Valley embraces a long series of thriving settlements, the result primarily of its fertile soil and abundant water. In the canyon of the Santa Ana River 12 miles above Anaheim is a natural rock dam from which all irrigation ditches should properly start. A ditch used by District Number 1 has already been dug through the firm red clay on the north bank of the river. At the point where these ditches leave the canyon they are approximately 100 feet above the bed of the river and this abrupt fall should afford many opportunities for industrial development. By these ditches practically the entire tract of 15,000 acres lying north, northeast, and northwest of the city is watered. District Number 1 operates under the county irrigation laws; on the south and east another district of equal size has been created. At the present, ditch No. 1 is being extended to include two districts near Anaheim; when this is completed, it will water, including the 2,000 acres served by the old Anaheim ditch, a valley of 30,000
Along the sea for 12 miles and running inland for 3 or 4 miles runs a broad stretch of ciénaga land which affords excellent green pasturage, being covered with wild alfalfa.
There are thus, as has been shown, many kinds of soil suited to a wide variety of products. Since most of these have ample water this is an ideal land for the agriculturalists, being suitable for maize, barley, alfalfa, hops, potatoes, flax, castor-beans, all kinds of vegetables, and many fruits, especially apples, pears, and berries. The valley slopes up from the southern coast at the rate of some 13 feet a mile. There are, however, many high places, some rising from 150 to 300 above sea-level. If watered, these lands prove quite productive though not to so large an extent as the former, being more suitable for wine-grapes and semi-tropical plants which do not require so much coolness and moisture, especially oranges, limes, lemons, bananas, pineapples, pomegranates, and guavas. These same high lands are, moreover, frequently used for raising such fruits as peaches, apples, pears, and various berries.
Of all these settlements, Anaheim is one of the most important as well as one of the most successful colonies in California. It lies 27 miles by rail from Los Angeles, and 8 miles in from the sea where it has a landing-place on the open coast some 3 miles from the Santa Ana River 150 feet above sea-level. Only a short time
A group of fifty German settlers from San Francisco, men of various occupations and interests, formed a company to purchase 1,165 acres of land southwest of Los Angeles. This was incorporated as a closed-stock company, Mr. Hansen of Los Angeles being the founder. In August, 1857, the latter bought the present site of Anaheim—so-called from the neighboring Santa Ana River—paying $2 an acre. After the first installment on the land was paid from the capital account, on September 29, 1857, work was begun. Payments were made over a period of three years by Mr. Hansen who, being an engineer, was admirably suited to take charge of its development. In the interim the stockholders pursued their various occupations in San Francisco, merely meeting the payments when they fell due. Indians and Californians were hired as laborers; at the start 100, and later, 50 men were engaged. In January, 1858, the ground was staked off into 50 tracts of 20 acres each. In the center was placed a city plaza surrounded by 60
In 1860, the final payments were made. Each stockholder had subscribed $1,200 and the shares were now appraised at $600 to $1,400 each, lots being drawn for lands. Whoever drew a share having a value of more than $1,200 paid the surplus in cash; those drawing shares having a smaller value had the difference refunded in cash. After all shares had been drawn, all the personal property belonging to the company, such as horses, tools, etc., were sold. This left enough surplus to make a refund of $100 to each stockholder. About this time the stockholders took possession of their property. Toward the end of 1859, 12 families came out to settle; in 1860, 30 more followed, and by the following year all had arrived. Today most of these colonists are still in Anaheim. Building materials were purchased wholesale, a school was constructed, merchants bought city lots, mechanics of all trades were attracted, and even a newspaper was established. By 1870 a million grapevines were in bearing that yielded 400,000 gallons of wine, and 10,000 gallons of brandy, 10,000 fruit trees were growing in the gardens, each of the 50 share-holders had a comfortable dwelling, and the settlement had over 500 inhabitants. In addition to the public schools a church and a postoffice were established. Each share had a value, at this time, of $5,000 to $10,000 and could not be purchased at any price. In the early days, the settlers suffered many hardships for all were without experience in this particular business—among them being several cabinet-workers, four blacksmiths, a brewer, a teacher, a shoe-maker, a hatter, a
Notwithstanding, in Anaheim these colonists have created by their energy and endurance the most lucrative vineyards in California that yield on an average 800,000 gallons of wine annually. The original 8 acres of vineyards have, in most instances, been increased to 18 acres, the balance being allotted to houses, orchards, and alfalfa. The city was forced to enlarge and where it was originally only 1,165 acres it now takes in 3,200 acres. The inhabitants are contented and prosperous and have, on the average, annual incomes of $1,000.
The success of this settlement sets an encouraging example for similar undertakings out in this country where so much room is still available especially south of the Santa Ana River. For new settlers, 40 acres would no doubt be far more suitable than 20; in the beginning it would probably be advisable to allocate certain lands to fruits, especially oranges, lemons, and olives.
In discussing Anaheim, mention should be made of the famous cider produced by Mr. B. Dreyfus who has a 200-acre vineyard and whose annual production reaches 175,000 gallons.
Southwest of Anaheim, between the settlement and the ocean, lies Westminster, a large, flourishing colony that is making rapid progress. Four years ago, the Reverend L. P. Webber, a Presbyterian minister from New Jersey, secured 7,000 acres from the Los Angeles and San Bernardino Company as the site for an agricultural colony. On this land about 40 artesian wells, each capable of irrigating from 40 to 60 acres, have been bored and new ones are being daily put down to a depth ranging between from 63 to 211 feet, many of which supply water for 160 acres. The settlement has a fine school-house which is also used as a church; a Presbyterian Church will also soon be erected.
Artesia, which is about 12 miles west of Anaheim between
Four or five miles west of the Santa Ana River in a valley near the foothills is the thriving settlement of Richland that has some 7,000 acres of excellent land valued at $15 to $25 an acre, or, when under cultivation, at not under $60 an acre. This colony has been developed in less than three years.
Only those settlements lying west of the Santa Ana River have, up to the present writing, been enumerated; those east of the river will now be accorded consideration.
Orange Valley includes what stretches of land lie between the Santa Ana, Temescal, and San Juan Rivers, and the ocean. Stretching from Burrels Point on the north to San Juan Capistrano on the south, it spreads over about 120 square miles and embraces the settlements of Orange, Santa Ana, Newport, Tustin, and the San Joaquin Rancho. The latter, which comprises about one-half of the entire valley, is comparatively undeveloped and is now on the market. Orange Valley is suited to the cultivation of all products indigenous to a temperate as well as semi-tropical climate. The land is mainly low but ascends gradually to the mountains. Only a section of the valley is watered by irrigating ditches, but if these were enlarged 40,000 acres could be placed under irrigation. Local settlers should organize under the irrigation laws.
Orange is the most northerly settlement in this valley, being 3 miles south of Burrels Point. Fruit-raising is its principal industry. Bananas, oranges, limes, lemons, walnuts, and grapes succeed and give promise of satisfactory profits. Orange is especially adapted to orchards since it is in the high section of the valley, is near the foothills where it is protected from frost, and has soil suitable for this purpose. With two excellent basins of gravel-land that assure early fruit crops and a large stretch of sandy loam, the farmer can readily raise fruit in addition to the usual crops.
Tustin, 3 1/2 miles southeast of Orange, owes its impetus to Colonel C. Tustin for whom it is named. After four years of activity, Tustin has grown into a flourishing settlement. The soil here is a fine brown sandy clay, extremely easy to work, and admirable for raising fruit and grain. Water, however, is always required by the former, and in dry weather by the latter, and this is now being supplied by an irrigating ditch leading from the Santa Ana River. The settlement is pleasantly located near groves of alders. A mill run by steam has already been erected.
Santa Ana, 2 miles west of Tustin and 1 1/2 miles southwest of Orange, is a town with a great future. The soil is a light porous clay of excellent quality and especially adapted to fruit-raising which, however, requires more or less water. The land slopes gradually southwest toward the ocean. As it dips the character of the soil changes and when well beyond the settlement becomes a moist black clay, which is almost a solid mass of top-soil which requires no water to produce fruits of the common variety which grow in extraordinary abundance. An acre of alfalfa yields 10 tons a year; Indian corn 75 to 100 bushels an acre, several thousand acres of this being planted annually after the first crop has been harvested. Barley is highly favored. Artesian wells 60 to 300 feet deep are found everywhere and when needed for livestock or special irrigation can be quickly bored. The community has school and an Odd Fellows lodge.
Newport, usually known as Gospel Swamp, is situated on Newport Bay and is the landing place for the district east of the Santa Ana River. Here a large storehouse equipped with every facility to expedite the handling of freight has been erected. In this district are two schoolhouses. This settlement spreads out over an area of some 9 square miles and is inhabited by more than 100 families who own farms running from 40 to 250 acres, the average being from 80 to 100 acres. Much of the surrounding land is so damp that irrigation is unnecessary and good harvests may be
In conclusion reference should be made to the most southerly settlement in the county, Mission San Juan Capistrano, lying 33 miles south of Anaheim, where, in 1776, Father Gorgonio founded San Juan Capistrano—the seventh in the chain of missions. The mission church, however, was destroyed in 1812 by an earthquake in which 47 lives were lost. Until 1834, the year when the Mexican Congress began its persecutions against them, the missions flourished. In 1830 it owned several immense tracts of lands, where 40,000 cattle, 70,000 sheep, 5,000 horses and many mules and hogs grazed. Since its foundation, 4,790 natives had been converted and baptized. This mission, which, incidentally, was one of the largest, supported a soap-factory, made clothes and shoes, and operated a wood-working department and a blacksmith's shop. The gardens and lands contained 80 acres, in the former being 400 venerable olive trees. Many ancient pear trees, the favorite fruit of the fathers, are now standing but the vineyards have completely vanished. The San Juan River, flowing as it did throughout the year, proved a boon to irrigation. Some few months prior to the Mexican War, 80 acres of olives and other fruits were sold to Don Juan Forster for $800; these are now worth $80,000.
OLD SANTA MONICA
THE COUNTRY IN AND ABOUT SANTA MONICA
SANTA MONICA, which lies some 17 miles west of Los Angeles, is equally accessible by rail or carriage. In summer, stages make the trip regularly for the benefit of sea-bathers. When the trip is made by carriage the road leads first past beautiful gardens and pleasant houses, over a stream, and across the railroad tracks to where a fine view may be had of the picturesque city of Los Angeles rising partly on the plains and partly on the rolling foot-hills with its background of impressive mountains. Out in the western end of Los Angeles near the windmill adjoining the Stewart House with its commodious verandas, the main highway which is lined on both sides with quantities of castor-bean plants is reached. From here a road forking to the left leads to the race track or Agricultural Park; the road on the traverses orange groves, flourishing vineyards, and fields of maize, again affording magnificent views of the mountains and the coastal hills sloping down toward Santa Monica. On the side of the road runs a wooden irrigating trough. After continuing past vineyards, windmills, young walnut trees, well-watered fields, and orchards, the road finally emerges on a pleasant plain bounded by an elongated hill stretching off into the distance. Scattered houses equipped with Holloday's patent mills and surrounded by small gardens usually enclosed with hedges of eucalypti dot the landscape. Passing a small gulch and continuing on toward the right a small house is visible rising on a slight elevation that overlooks the gently rolling plains
From this point the road swings on past a plain of adobe from which are afforded glimpses of a fertile valley, lying like a green carpet in a withered plain at the foot of the hills. This is what is known as the Ciénaga, a marshy stretch of land 10 miles long and 3 miles wide. Since the land is constantly damp, the grass is green throughout the year, making excellent pasturage and, in certain areas, being suitable for raising grain and vegetables.
On the west, La Ballona Ranch, which is similar in area, adjoins this stretch. Though this land is fairly high, it has ample water, is extremely fertile, and produces excellent fruits, vegetables, and grain. Inasmuch as it is inhabited by Californians, a good school and a railway station have been established, the latter being named for Palomares, a prominent citizen in Los Angeles. On this ranch is a dilapidated old house where the robber Vasquez was captured.
Continuing on down the road, on the left stand a wooden house, clumps of prickly pears, and fields where sheep and cattle graze; on the right is a gully where ducks paddle in a tiny brook. Fragrant meadows filled with grazing horses, scattered houses, and a morass thick with marsh reed are passed until, at the foot of the hills, the Eight-mile House, or Halfway-Station, is reached. Here the hills on the left terminate. Adjoining the house is a well of good spring water, a little pump, and a pepper tree. The man living here is an Austrian from Zindis, and in his parlor hangs a portrait of the Emperor. “I once,” said the good man, while he attempted to wipe the dust off the lithograph with his rough hands, “gave a Slovakian five thalers for it.” Thus even out in the prairies, patriotism and devotion to the Emperor were enshrined in this humble home by a man who had left Austria at the age of
From this point a flat region having rolling hills on either side—the haunt of countless ground squirrels—extends on down to the sea. A turn to the right takes the traveller across government land known as the Rosen Grant Tract. On the banks between the valley and Wilmington may be seen salt-works overlooking the sea. On the right is a range of mountains; toward the left a projecting hill. The soil is sandy and artesian wells, which afford good water, can be brought in without difficulty.
After crossing the railway the road again skirts hills; toward the right and off in the foreground spreads an undulating dry plain dotted here and there with isolated trees and houses. By many of the scavenger vultures whom we met along the road we were allowed to approach fairly close; these creatures flew away only when we were within a few steps of them. Then, continuing on along the road, we were soon in Santa Monica.
Santa Monica is entirely a creation of late years. Its origin dates back to the building in January, 1875, of the Los Angeles and Independence Railway. This railway, shipping, and sea-bathing are the sole support of this new settlement.
What is visible upon arrival is not impressive. At the end of the plain stand little painted, wooden houses lining a solitary street, the nucleus of the future community. This man street is known as Tilden Street. On it the most striking buildings are a little church with a pointed roof and wooden tower and a fairly large hotel with two side wings connected by a central building. The view out over the ocean is, however, magnificent, as is that near the coast with its fine view of the Santa Monica Mountains. At the end of the esplanade, which is known as Ocean Avenue, is another hotel used exclusively as a lodging-house called Ocean House. Several rich merchants of Los Angeles have invested in lots on Ocean Avenue and these, in the course of time, will be
The loaded cars used for delivering and receiving freight travel
From the north-northwest to south-southeast, it is sheltered by land, Santa Catalina which lies about 35 miles south and Santa Barbara some 35 miles to the west, breaking the main force of the waves. Only on its southwestern extremity is it thus exposed to the full force of the open seas. Winds blowing in from this direction are, however, seldom stiff, and if so, are usually of brief duration.
On the south shore lies East Santa Monica. Here on the cliffs stand several houses and two frame buildings which serve as machine-shops for the railroad.
To reach Old Santa Monica the road curves on up to the plateau crowning the palisades, past pastures where sheep peacefully graze until the canyon of Old Santa Monica with its flowing brook comes into view. On its banks a bath-house and numbers of tents glisten in the shelter of the alders. High up on either side tower
The glistening palisades stretching north from the shore are composed of conglomerates, clay, slate, shale, broken gravel, and weathered granite. At two points in the canyon water is visible dripping down through the friendly groups of alders and willows. On beyond is a place where carriages usually halt, called the Old Santa Monica Corral, where there are stalls for horses down underneath the alders. Not far from this stands Frank's Saloon, a large tent house or pavilion flying the American colors, which has a large rustic porch running across the front of the building. In conjunction is the stable, a large open affair with accommodations for many horses, which is used by the stages. It is all very delightful. Under the alders on the left side of the canyon are two frame houses; one is a little store carrying miscellaneous goods, the other is surrounded by a cornfield. An extraordinarily beautiful clump of alders rises on the left of the brook forming a natural arbor where simple rustic seats have been erected and where, if the signs are to be believed, music is furnished at certain hours.
In Old Santa Monica only about 45 families, who lead a simple, pleasant existence, are now living. No more economical or happier life can be imagined, as a matter of fact, than this life given over to picnicking under the trees and to enjoying the invigorating sea-breezes, surrounded by congenial acquaintances. Many families,
The return trip from Old Santa Monica to Los Angeles is made by way of a side valley that leads past thriving alders and well-watered lowlands where maize is sprouting. Where the road begins to ascend by easy stages onto a plateau there is seen a small brick house with a shingled roof surounded by a grill-like thicket fence interlaced with leather thongs. From here the road continues on across a plain of adobe soil where some small adobe houses have been erected, until it reaches New Santa Monica. Then, crossing a dry plain, it winds on toward Los Angeles. Far off in the distance looms Santa Catalina Island silhouetted in graceful outline against the hazy horizon. Finally, in short time, the road joins the main highway leading to Los Angeles.
WILMINGTON
ALTHOUGH Santa Monica is the closest, Wilmington, since it has the better shipping facilities, is the real port for Los Angeles. Wilmington lies 23 miles south of Los Angeles at the end of the Wilmington branch of the Southern Pacific Railway. After departing from the Southern Pacific station in Los Angeles, the train passes first through flourishing fruit orchards, fine orange groves, vineyards, willow hedges, walnut groves, and masses of castor-bean plants growing along the tracks. On the left tower the majestic mountains. Once the orchards are passed the country becomes flat and level, being varied only by occasional acacias and pepper trees. Then Florence, with its small wooden railway station, is reached on the right. The settlement of Florence is virtually a suburb of Los Angeles which is only about 5 miles distant. The soil in this district is fertile in the extreme and for a period of several years harvests have matured without irrigation. Already about 100 farms have been located in this vicinity. Artesian water is found locally at a depth varying from 70 to 150 feet. Every kind of grain, with the single exception of wheat, is under cultivation. Activities here center mainly in the fruit and wine industries.
Shortly after the train leaves Florence flat plains used both for grain fields and pastures are passed; here and there this is varied by an occasional home, fields of corn, clumps of willows, and a small pond which is spanned by a wooden bridge. Finally Compton, a small settlement 12 miles from Los Angeles, whose abundance of artesian wells assures crops throughout the year, is approached.
Wilmington, with its terminus costing $40,000, is at the end of the line and is now the principal port in the county. No doubt it will have a remarkable growth when it is made, as it eventually will be, the end of the Texas and Pacific Railroad. In the early days San Pedro with its few wooden houses, was the principal port until, in 1858, a small steamer was put into service to transport freight from ships lying at anchor in the San Pedro roadstead four miles away through the inner channels to Wilmington. This gave a new impetus to the latter port, an impetus which was further enhanced by the building of the railroad. At the present date it has about 1,000 inhabitants. The town consists of a number of scattered wooden houses, a Catholic church which was established when the town was founded, a Methodist church, a Masonic and an Odd Fellows' hall. There is also Wilson College, which was founded by D. B. Wilson, who donated 10 acres of land and two buildings, one which contains classrooms and a library and the
Wilmington is already important as a commercial center, especially for wool. The large warehouse standing here was erected by the government during the war. It belongs to E. M. MacDonald of Wilmington and J. E. Perkins of San Francisco and holds 2,000 bales of wool. This is shipped out over the Panama line, which makes eastern connections.
In 1873, wool sent from Wilmington and Anaheim amounted to 10,000,000 pounds, but of this amount only a small proportion came from Anaheim. The commercial importance of Wilmington is indicated by the fact that 400 ships, carrying from 75,000 to 100,000 tons of freight arrive and depart annually.
A brief survey of the harbor is now in order, but before entering into a discussion of its facilities, a short description will be given of what has been done here by the government.
The harbor of Wilmington consists, first of all, of a small bay, which is virtually nothing more than a slight dip in the coast that
Then on the opposite side, at right angles, smaller dams were built off Deadman's Island. This work was begun by Captain Sears in 1871 and partially completed by 1873. Congress appropriated $200,000 for this purpose, and later, an additional $225,000. Even this amount has proved inadequate, the shale being so hard that the current accomplished little, and it was finally decided to cut a channel 2,000 feet wide through the bar. In February, 1875, work was commenced. In excavating this channel a cut 60 to 100 feet broad, 10 feet deep, and 100 feet long was first made which will soon be completed. A dredger is now at work steadily and all material extracted is thrown in the sea. Progress is, however, slow, since the foundation is very hard and blasting of little value since done only in small areas. Beyond the shale is a thick layer of sand which can be quickly dissolved by the current. After this channel has been cut to a width of 100 feet it will be widened another 100 feet and its depth increased to 15 feet in the center of the channel, thus giving it a depth of 22 feet at high tide. For the present, however, a depth of 10 feet is adaquate since this allows vessels drawing 17 feet to pass at high tide and the Goodall, Nelson & Perkins boats require only 10 feet of water. Soon, however,
The traveller who sails from Wilmington leaves from a pier that towers high above the aforementioned marsh lagoons thick with patches of marsh grass where, on the end, the wharf warehouses supported by piles have been erected. Here stretches an other terminal projecting out for some considerable distance which is used by carriages. To this wharf small ships carrying in the main Colorado pine, come to unload. The tender Los Angeles plies back and forth across the harbor carrying passengers out to the steamers anchored in the outer basin, where the peacefulness of the scene is broken only by the fluttering seagulls. From this outer harbor is afforded a panoramic view of the mountains on the right, extensive plains on the left, and the high mountains of the cape sloping gently down to where they meet the palisades at the shore. Gaily painted buoys and wooden pyramids mark the navigable waters and cause vessels departing to describe a great arc as they set their course. On the left appear two small wooden huts and a fringe of sand dunes which separate the outer basin from the open ocean. Finally, where the land meets the outer sea, a few warehouses built of wood and several high ladders may be seen. Across from these, on the shore in a small cove in the palisades where the horizontal veined strata of soil are exposed to the elements, stand a few small houses. On down the coast a few more are visible; ahead is the bar; toward the left rises Deadman's Island; opposite on the right where the palisades end are several
Then Los Angeles, at last, vanishes in the distance, while the sun dropping into the ocean throws its shadows over the distant outline of Santa Catalina, and the mainland becomes gradually clouded in the grayness of dusk. Tomorrow, however, the sun will rise once more—this glowing Californian Sun—and bring fresh life and vigor to this delightful land. But as our ship is already steaming away, by sunrise the Los Angeles coast will no longer be visible. And so farewell, Flower of a Golden Land.
THE END
NOTES AND INDEX
Agriculture: In Southern California, 47, 48, 59, 71, 72, 73, 82, 113, 114, 116, 167, 173, 183.
Agricultural Park: 137, 175.
Americans: Influx into Southern California, 35; type of houses of in Southern California, 45, 46; 136.
Anaheim: 2, Table of temperature at, 3, 12, 13; meteorological report from, 15, 16, 17; Catholic Church at, 30; marble found at, 92; 104, 110, 166; early history of, 168, 169, 170, 171, 185.
Arroyo Seco: 141, 157, 158.
Artesia: 170.
Azusa (Ranch): Site of Downey on, 52; 163.
Bacon, F.: 152.
Baker, Arcadia de: 125.
Ballona: 129, 176.
Banks: Farmers and Merchants, 99; Temple and Workman, 99; Commercial, 99, 127; Los Angeles County, 99.
Banning (House): 184.
Beaudry, Prudent: 129.
Bees: Raised in Southern California, 79, 80.
Bell, Horace: Reminiscences of a Ranger, vii.
Bixby, Jotham: Ranch at Cerritos, 84.
Brands: Use of in Southern California, 87.
Buenaventura: See Ventura.
Cahinas (Indian tribe): 40.
Cajon Pass: Height of, 2.
California, Southern: As a health resort, xiii, 20; opportunities in, xiii, 113, 114; counties of, 1; climate of, 3, 17; table of temperature in, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11; rainfall of, 18; trade winds of, 19; agriculture and fruit-raising in, 59-60, 70-75; gardens of, 75, 76; cattle industry in, 82.
Californians: Characteristics of, ii, 33, 34, 35; food and dress of, 36; dances of, 37; intermarriage with Indians, 39; houses of, 45; crops raised by, 60, 61; cattle-raising by, 81, 85; rodeos of, 86, 87; horses of, 87; in Los Angeles, 126, 129, 137.
Capistrano: See San Juan Capistrano.
Carrillo, Carlos: 120.
Catholics: In Southern California, 30, 128, 130, 132.
Célis, Eulogio de: 161, 162.
Childs, G. W.: 138.
Chinese: Agitation against in Southern California, 41; traits of, 41, 42; immigration of, 42, 43, 125, 128; 136, 162.
Churches: 131, 132, 135.
City Gardens: 129.
Compton: 2; imports and exports of, 103; 183, 184.
Cone, Mary: Two Years in California, xiv.
Crocker, Charles F.: i.
Crops: Season for, 48; irrigation of, 48; kinds grown in Southern California, 48, 49, 50, 59, 60, 61, 62; olive trees at Missions, 60, 61.
Dalton, George: 138.
Dalton, H.: 166.
Downey, John G.: 130, 135.
Downey City: 2, 103, 164, 165.
Duarte: 52, 163.
Earthquakes: 21.
Eaton, Benjamin J.: 158.
Eine Blume aus dem Goldenen Lande, oder Los Angeles: English translation of, vii, viii.
El Monte: 2, 50, 52, 53, 73, 106, 123, 163, 164.
Express, The Los Angeles: iii, 134.
Fair Oaks: 158, 159. See also Eaton.
Fathers (Missionaries): Importance in agricultural development of Southern California of, 60; 152.
Ferdinandiños (Indian Tribe): 40.
Fire Mill House: 151.
Florence (Italy): Salvator at, v.
Florence: 2, 183.
Forster, Juan: 173.
Frohling, John: 138.
Garnier, Eugene: 162.
Gelcich, Vincent: xiv, 93, 94.
Gold Rush: ii, 121.
Goodall, Nelson and Perkins Steamship Company: 109, 186.
Gospel Swamp: 50, 172. See also Newport.
Halsey, Dr.: 63.
Hancock, Major: Asphalt works of, 95, 176.
Hanna, Phil Townsend: ix.
Hittell, John S.: The Resources of California, xiv.
Hotels: Pico House, 126, 134; Clarendon, 135; Lafayette, 135; United States, 135.
Howard, J. G.: 138.
Howard, Volney E.: 152.
Indians: Intermarriage of Californians and, 35, 39; census of 1823 and 1863, 39; mode of life in Southern California, 39, 40; as herders, 83. See also Cahinas, San Juaneños, San Luiseños, Ferdinandiños.
Indian Colony: 158.
Irrigation: Importance of, 49, 51, 52, 53, 54; fences along ditches, 57, 167, 170, 172.
Johnston, Hancock: 135, 136.
Jones, C.: 139.
Kearney, General: 120.
Keller, Matthew: i, 63, 69, 139.
Kern (County): 1.
Kewen, E. J. C.: 152, 156.
Laguna, Rancho de la: 147, 148.
Lands: Prices of in Southern California, 114, 117.
Land Grants: Size of, 85, 117.
Leopold II (Father of Salvator): v.
Los Angeles (City): 2, Earthquake in, 21; founding of mission church at, 30; trade, manufacturing, and fruit-raising in, 47; water supply in, 53; wine-industry in, 69, 70; oil near, 93; as a mining-center, 95; industries of, 97; mails in, 111; population in, 116, 129; founding of, 119, 120; plaza, 125; houses of, 125, 126; streets of, 127, 128; churches in, 131, 132; Public Library of, 133; newspapers of, 134; 150, 158, 162, 165, 175, 178, 181, 183, 188.
Los Angeles (County): Flora and Fauna of, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28; population, 29; types of settlers, 29; schools in, 30, 31; extent of agriculture in, 47; ranches in, 48; water in, 51; Santa Ana River in, 52; artesian wells in, 54; orange cultivation in, 63, 64, 65; land values in, 77; bee and silk culture in, 79; cattle-raising in, 81; sheep, 83, 84; hunting in, 89; mining in, 91; oil fields of, 93; imports and exports of, 101, 102; shipping of, 109; railways in, 110; ideal for farming, 113, 114, 115; wealth of, 117.
Los Angeles (mission church): 130.
Los Angeles (River): 51, 53, 124, 141, 147, 150, 157, 159. See also Porciúncula.
Los Angeles (Valley): Size of, 123.
Los Angeles and Independence Ry.: v, 110, 127, 149, 177.
Los Angeles and San Pedro Ry.: Freight carried by, 100, 101.
Los Nietos: 52, 53, 73, 95, 147, 164.
Mallorca: Salvator at, v.
Mexico: Rule of in Southern California, 35, 120, 121, 124, 173.
Mining: Its importance in California, ii, iii; 91; copper, 92, 95, 99.
Missions: As nucleus of early counties, 1; cattle-raising at, 85. See also San Gabriel, San Buenaventura, San Juan Capistrano.
Mojave Desert: As a mining district, 2.
Neve, Felipe de (Governor): ii, 119.
New England: Population in California from, iii.
Newmark, Harris: Sixty years in California, viii.
Newport: 172.
Nordhoff, Charles: His California for Health, Pleasure, and Residence, xiv.
Norvan, Colonel: 139.
Oak Knoll: 156.
Obispo, San Luis: I.
Oil: Discovery of in Southern California, 92, 93, 94.
Olden, W. R.: Articles of, xiv.
Olive (Tree): In Southern California, 60, 61.
Orange (Town): Hisotry of, 171, 172.
Orange (Tree): Introduction into Southern California, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66.
Pacific Mail Steamship Line: 109.
Palomares, Ignacio: 166, 176.
Perez, Eulalia Arrila de: 152.
Perry, W. G.: 150.
Pico, Andrés: 93, 120, 161, 162.
Pikes (Settlers from Pikes County, Missouri): Origin of term, 30.
Pinole (Indian food): 34.
Pomona: 166.
Porciúncula, Rio (The Los Angeles River): ii, 2, 120.
Rainfall: 15, 16, 17, 49, 50.
Ranchero. See California.
Requena, Manuel: 63.
Richland: 2.
Rodeo: 85, 86.
Rose, L. J.: 63, 64, 69, 152, 153, 154, 155.
Round House: iv.
Salvator, Ludwig: Date of birth, v; early life and travels, v; volumes published by, vi.
San Bernardino (County): i, 52, 166.
San Diego: 1, 110.
San Fernando: 2; Date of founding of mission, 30; 53; fruit trees at, 61; hunting near, 89; marble discovered at, 92; oil fields of, 93, 97; imports and exports at, 105, 111, 142, 149, 159, 161.
San Francisco: 110, 111, 168, 185.
San Gabriel (Mission): Date of founding, 30; agriculture at, 61; orange trees planted at, 62, 119, 144, 145, 149, 151, 152.
San Gabriel (River): 2, 51; extent of, 52, 53, 54, 76; gold discoveries on, 91; 120, 164, 165.
San Gabriel (Town): 2; table of temperature at, 3, 14, 21; 105, 151, 152, 163.
San Gabriel (Valley): Earthquake in, 21; artesian wells in, 53; hunting in, 89.
San José: 166.
San Juan Capistrano: 2; date of founding, 30; fruit trees at, 61; early history of, 173.
San Luiseños (Indian tribe): 40.
San Pasqual: 158.
San Pedro: Importance of bay at, 2, 95; 110, 124, 147, 184, 186.
Santa Ana (River): 2, 51, 52, 110, 166, 167, 171, 172.
Santa Ana (Town): 172.
Santa Anita (Ranch): 152.
Santa Barbara: Oil near, 92, 93, 121.
Santa Monica: Shipping at, iii, 2; bathing at, 31, 79; fishing at, 90; 110, 129, 175, 177, 178, 179, 180, 181.
Schools: Characteristics and size of, 30, 31.
Shaw, Dr.: 138.
Shorb, J. De B.: 152, 155.
Sonora: Population from, 35; 135.
Southern Pacific Ry.: i, 101, 107, 108, 127, 163, 165, 183.
Spadra: 2, 106, 110, 111; origin of name, 165, 166.
Stearns, Abel: Mining activities of, 91.
Stoneman, George: 152, 156, 157.
Thom, Cameron E.: 138.
Titus, L. H.: 152.
Truman, Major Ben C.: His Semi-Tropical California, xiv.
Tustin City: 2; founding of, 172.
Ventura (San Buenaventura): 1; oil near, 92, 93.
Verdugo, Julio: 143.
Vignes, Luis: 62.
Vineyards: Extent of in Southern California, 68, 69, 70.
Waldron, O. V.: 137.
Ward, John Shirley: 65.
Westminster: 2, 170.
White, T. Jefferson: 138.
Widney, R. M.: 76.
Wilmington: Shipping at, iii, 2; Catholic Church at, 30; fishing at, 90; imports and exports of, 103, 109, 129, 177, 183, 184, 185, 187.
Wilson, B. D.: 63, 64, 69, 152, 184.
Winston, Colonel: 152.
Wolfskill, Joseph: 66.
Wolfskill, William: 62, 63, 64, 138.
Woodworth, J. D.: 139.
Workman, Elijah H.: 138.
Zanjas (Irrigation ditches): 54.