CLARA BARTON GENERAL CORRESPONDENCE Coxe, Ferdinand NOV. 1869 - JAN. 1870Marseilles. November 18th 1869 :My dear Miss Barton It was with very great pleasure that I received your letter of the 17th, this morning - As my promises are not limited as to time, your "procrastination" had in no wise weakened the pleasure I have in meeting your draft for information, in doing which I have had nothing but very real pleasure - I have accordingly devoted a little of the too great leisure I have here, to finding out what you desire to know; and only wish you could have given me much more to find, as I have more time on my hands than is pleasant - One can "do" this place very thoroughly in two days & although it is a fine large city, there is little or nothing for a stranger to do in it -Going first to the Peninsular & Oriental Company's office, which is close to this hotel, I was told that their Steamers did not go to Seyschelles and that the only Company which took passengers there was the "Messageries Imperiales" - this narrowed down the range of inquiry very decidedly - so to the "M. I" I went & learned this - Their Steamers leave every 4th Saturday. The next will leave on the 27th November & the following one on the 25th December - They go from here to Alexandria - thence by rail, across Egypt, to Suez - thence to Aden & thence to Seychelles. The price of passage, 1st Class, including every thing, by the Steamers is 1875. francs - rail road transit is extra, 112.50 francs - making a total of 1987.50 francs - or, in round numbers, 2000. francs - The trip is made in 20. days - The 2d Class passengers are of so promiscuous & dirty a class that you would not be able to travel with them - An Indian Ocean voyage requires more comfort than even a first class passage can afford, to make it entirely a luxury - As however your disposition as regards heat is somewhat of the Salamander order, you will luxuriate in the heat, which is always spoken of, by Indian passengers, as something exceedingly warm - So much for business - I hope you & Mrs & Mr Upton are perfectly well, and are doing your duty to day, in the state of life to which you are called by "Thanksgiving" - I should like to be with you - and, indeed, from what my boys write me about the weather since I left, I might as well have stayed in Geneva - Tell Mrs Upton, if you please, that with her kind permission, which I will assume, I propose writing her a letter about my travels, one of these days.[*12 Ferdinand Coxe Nov 1869 Ansd*] Meantime, I want to tell her & you, (if you don't already know it) that, 5 1/2 hours from you, by rail, there is a splendid City, called Lyons; exceedingly well worth a visit of a few days in the Spring - not the dirty manufacturing town of twenty years ago (as I knew it), but a large, beautiful Capital; with finer streets & stores in some respects, than even Paris - I was even more struck with the change wrought in twenty years, than I was in Geneva, where the change is wonderful - We have fine, clear weather here - they have had no rain to speak of for six months - Thermometer every day over 60° - but it is a treacherous climate; with insidious drafts of cold wind, (called Mistral - but the same thing as the Bise) which give bad colds to strangers - With my kindest regards to Mr. & Mrs. Upton & to you, I am Most respectfully yours Ferdinand Coxe I find I have forgotten to say that you have 300 lbs of baggage allowed you - & that 2d class passage is 500. francs less - [*Ferdinand copy*] Marseilles, November 28th/69 [*12 search for warm climate*] [*M Coxe Ansd 29 - N..? November 69*] GRAND HOTEL. LOUVRE & PAIX. C. ECHALLIER J. FALQUET. MARSEILLE. My dear Miss Barton Your letter of the 26= reached me yesterday morning while at breakfast (10. AM) and was a very agreeable addition to the meal, although I was very sorry to learn from it, that you had been a victim to the Bise. I hope you are entirely recovered, and that you will not emulate your Grandmother's forty years experience. As you desire I have made all necessary inquiries about Algiers, and the result is, that the Steamer leaves here every Tuesday and Saturday at 5. P. M. fare (1st class) Ninety five (95) Francs, including every thing - Time of passage 40. hours Chance of sea sickness accordingto weather - La Mediterranée being feminine is rather fickle, and (unlike the ladies) cannot be depended upon - The chances between a rough & smooth passage are about even - and at the worst, it is only forty hours, a trifle. There are no sailing vessels fit for you to go in - The climate of Algiers is delightful and entirely healthy - A fire is seldom necessary - even for the most delicate - A very good hotel (d'Orient) where your expenses would be, so far as I can learn, from ten to twelve francs per day - You go "en pension," at so much per day, including every thing - There are few things to see and the life is monotonous - Arabs in abundance and a great deal to interest one, from its novelty, till the novelty wears off - So far as climate, temperature &c are concerned, however, Algiers seems to be as desirable a place as can be found on the Mediterranean - As to the climate of Italy, as a general rule, it is one of the very largest humbugs - As you may like to hear of other places, not so far off as Algiers, where the climate is generally good and mild, and where you can find comfortable lodging and not very expensive, my researches lead me to recommend Mentone & San Remo, as very desirable - You go from here to Nice & Monaco by rail, and Mentone is a short ride from Monaco - In a few days, I hear a new rail road will be opened to Mentone - The road is finished & perhaps is open now -From Mentone to San Remo is a few hours ride only - I think, as you are not in search of dissipation, either of these places would suit you very well - and when the Spring opened you would be close to Genoa, Pisa & Florence - where you could enjoy yourself very well for a while with their sights. The society at Mentone & San Remo is very good, principally English - I have no doubt you could get 'pension' there from 8. to 10. francs. This place is one of the dearest in Europe - This hotel is excellent and should you come here, I advise you to stop at it - Pension here au 3me 11. francs - 4me 9. francs a day - but it is a poor place to remain in - I happen to have some acquaintances and linger on - I shall start, suddenly, someday - With my best regards to Mr & Mrs Upton, I am very respectfully & truly yours Ferdinand CoxeGd Hotel Louvre et Paix Marseilles. Decr 8th/69 [*12 Corsica*] My dear Miss Barton Your letter found me still here; much to my satisfaction, as I can satisfy your inquiries on the subject of Corsica - about two weeks ago we had a very nice intelligent German in the little clique which occupies one end of our table d'hôte and keeps much together - He was in search of a fine climate for the winter & left us for Ajaccio via Nice, promising to give us some news of the place on his arrival - After waiting a week, like a sensible man, to be able to write knowingly, he sends us word two days ago, that he is comfortably fixed at the Hotel Germanie at Ajaccio,that the hotel is comfortable & the table good - the pension from 8. to 9. francs a day and that the climate is delicious - ending with what proves his satisfaction, that he proposes to spend the winter there - He speaks of several other hotels, which are still more reasonable - I think nothing could be more satisfactory - and I really think that, in every point of view, it would be more desirable for you than Algiers - On my way to the post, I will stop at "Valéry frères" & find out the time of sailing & the price of passage - a steamer leaves every week from Nice & the sea voyage is thus shortened about one half - at this season of the year, this classic sea is often very rough, and the shorter the sea voyage the better - It gets up a sea in the shortest notice & is as stormy as a "Womans' rights meeting" - We are having not a bad spell of weather here - thermometer 60° & upwards every day - but it can't be depended upon - I linger on here principally because I am so near to my boys & can hear so speedily from them - I really have no plans, except a general one of passing from here to Genoa along shore - This is a day of great importance to the Catholic Church. The Grand Council meets to day in Rome & I am very much mistaken if the seeds of great events & changes, in the future, are not sown in this days meeting -I hope you will not suppose that the crest on this paper is mine - I am rather patient, but have not adopted the Camel for my emblem - I picked it up this morning & thought it looked pretty enough to use - The Suez Canal will bring Camels, Sphinxes &c into fashion - I hear that "by Allah!" is now the fashionable form of swearing in Paris - With my regards to our friends at the Consulate, I am very truly yours Ferdinand Coxe P.S. Steamer leaves every Friday, at 9 A.M. for Ajaccio 1st class passage 40. francs, including everything - 20 hours passage - fare from Nice 30. francs twice a month - [*Ferdinand Coxe Dec 9th 1869 [Ansd " " " *][*Ferdinand Coxe 12 Corsica*] GRAND HOTEL. LOUVRE & PAIX. C. ECHALLIER J. FALQUET. MARSEILLE. Marseilles. December 11th/69 My dear Miss Barton Your letter of Thursday reached me this morning, and I am of opinion that you have decided judiciously in selecting Ajaccio for your winter's residence. I have heard much since, which confirms the good account I gave you in my previous letter - I do not think you will be disappointed in either the climate or the accommodations, and it is very likely you will find some pleasant society - I adopt the "significance" you discovered in my little Camel - tho' it did not occur to me when sending it - You cannot find the "Last straw" which will break his back - I think I may assist your journey next week a little, in giving you some items from thetime tables between Lyons & here - Leaving Geneva at 3.18. PM. you reach Lyons at 9.30. P.M. N.B. The cars will stop at an outside Lyons, in a fine depot, which might tempt some persons to alight - You ride a long time after that, before you reach your getting out place, viz. Lyons Perrache, for which point you take your ticket, if you do not get a through ticket to Marseilles. From Lyons you can come on the same night at 10.45, reaching here at 6.30. A.M. or you can stay at Lyons all night + leave at 7.30. A.M + reach here at 3.45. P.M. If you feel able to ride all night I would recommend your coming through - By all means come first class - The cars are not only more comfortable, but they are warmed by hot air foot stools, which are excellent - You will find the Omnibus of the hotel at the depot - N.B. There is a Petit, as well as a Grand Hotel du Louvre - Be sure to ask for the Grand Hotel Louvre et Paix. for there is a Grand Hotel de Marseilles also - Altho' my movements are "of the most uncertain" (as a Frenchman would say) I think there is every probability of my being here; and although I will not promise to meet you on your arrival (at 6.30 A.M.) I will be very happy to see you a little later, and to breakfast with you, after you have had a little rest - say at 10. or 11. am -Before going to your room, you can leave a message at the Bureau for me, telling me what you will wish to do - If you can sleep in the cars (which I never can) you will come on very comfortably - I can only say, in conclusion, that it has afforded me sincere pleasure to be of such slight service to you, and that I would have been happy to do very much more for you - thankful to the chance it gave me of contributing my mite towards the payment of the immense debt of gratitude which every American owes to one who has given her all of time and health to so many of his suffering countrymen - With great regard I am very truly yours Ferdinand Coxe P.S. I think the Parisians are more likely to swear at, than by the Pope - Marseilles. Dec 16= 1869. [*12 Corsica*] GRAND HOTEL. LOUVRE & PAIX. C. ECHALLIER J. FALQUET. MARSEILLE. My dear Miss Barton I received your letter of yesterday, (instead of yourself) this morning & was not a little surprised at your change of hour and selection of so long a ride instead of the Express speed of the other train - you will have nearly four hours additional riding & I fear will be very much fatigued - I really do not know what to tell you now - nor how you will manage at such an hour as 4.30 A.M. Of course you cannot go at once to the boat, for you have no idea where it is - I had hoped you would have been here all day to day, so as to be able to arrange your affairs at leisure. I really feel very sorry for the change in your plans, for I fear you will have not a little annoyance, which I know no means of sparing you - I will try to have this letter delivered to you on your arrival - The name of the Boat which goes to Ajaccio is the "Insulaire" & she is somewhere in the "Joliette" - You can have one comfort; that another boat will leave on Sunday morning, if you miss this one - and I would really advise you to abandon all idea of trying to find Friday's boat & wait till Sunday. My health precludes the faintest idea of trying to assist you in person at that hour of the day,(?) and I really expect to find you here at the Hotel, after the departure of the boat - Still, Iknow what ladies can do, when they make up their minds, and you may succeed - recollect that your boat is the "Insulaire" - I shall hope to hear from you from Ajaccio, after you have had time to look around you - I think it very possible that I may spend the month of January & part of February there - Please give me some details as to the accommodation and cost of living that you find there - Hoping you will not be too much annoyed by difficulties on your arrival here, I am Yours truly Ferdinand Coxe Marseilles. January 27 1870 [*33 [V G 6?]*] GRAND HOTEL. LOUVRE & PAIX. C. ECHALLIER J. FALQUET. MARSEILLE. My dear Miss Barton Your pleasant letter from Ajaccio arrived here in due course of French mail - i.e. nearly a week after its date - I owe you an excuse for not having replied sooner, and I know you will recognize the excuse as a good one when I tell you I have had a young lady friend here, to whom I had all the sights to show, &c, and who occupied all my time so agreeably that I could find no time for any thing else. Being left once more alone, I hasten to fulfill my postponed duties & pleasures, of which latter this is one - I was very much pleased to hear that you had arrived safely and were so comfortable. From your account Ajaccio must be a sort of Paradise in climate, and I should have been disposed to hasten over to bask in the warm sunshine, butfor the fact that the climate here has been all winter, as near perfection as one could hope for in winter. We have really had no more than six or eight really bad days since the middle of November - It has been an exceptional winter every where I think - for in Naples & Algiers & other places where one has almost a right to look for warmth & sunshine, it has been cold, rainy & unpleasant all the time - Rome has been worse still & Florence ditto - This place is usually unpleasant in winter, but this season has been delightful - I have therefore had no reason for leaving a place whose chief attraction is its closeness to my boys - who very fortunately have continued very well - I hope the Spring will set in early so that I may get back to my Geneva home very soon - & I believe we shall have an early Spring, from the fact that winter seems to have arrived every where a month too soon - You really seem to have been fortunate in you selection of a winter residence & I trust you will be entirely restored to health & strength by the time you will be ready to return to Switzerland, which I suppose will be your Summer resort. It is lovely in summer - I have thus, as you will infer, abandoned all present idea of seeing Corsica - but there is a month yet to go through of winter & I may get there yet - time will show - I think of leaving here shortly for Genoa - Very respectfully & truly yours Ferdinand Coxe P.S. Take my advice & give up all idea of trying to sail on Friday (tomorrow) morning - Another boat goes on Sunday, at 9. a.m - That will give you time to go leisurely & also to see a little of Marseilles. You had better ride to the Hotel in the Omnibus and go comfortably to bed for some hours - Leave word for me what time you will probably come down to breakfast - Yours Ferdinand Coxe [*Ferdinand Coxe Dec. 19 - 1869*]Mr Coxe requires no answerCOLLECTION THE PAPERS OF CLARA BARTON Series and/or Container 67 Shelf/Accession No. 86-38 (rev 7/82)