CATT, Carrie Chapman. Diary, Feb. 1 - Apr. 1, 1912 India ~Diary of Carrie Chapman-Catt~ ~India ~ (Part VIII) ~ Feb. 1st to April 1st 1912 ~ Pictures referred to in separate book - post-cards. 1-176 in Pkt. INDIA. BOMBAY, Taj Mahal Hotel. February 9, 1912. As usual, I must call to mind the events of the past few days as none were recorded upon the day of happening. We left Colombo at 6 o'clock on S.S. Bahrata, Thursday, Feb. 1st. We had dreaded this journey because the sea is usually choppy and the boats small and crowded. This time the sea was like a pond, the boat clean and nice, and the passage beautiful. We arrived at Tuticorin at 7 a.m. Friday, grateful that gray clouds held back the sun for awhile. We went through customs, got our baggage registered, found our compartment without difficulty, got a breakfast on the train and then wanted to eke our short night's ration of sleep by a nap, but there was no place to lie down and no place to rest the head when sitting, so sleep was impossible. We tried reading but the train was jerky and we couldn't distinguish the words. So we had to look at the country. It looked like S.A. The natives were not characteristic as yet - not different from the Indians of Ceylon and we did not particularly enjoy it. We arrived at Madura at 2:30 after lunch on the train. We were at once surrounded by carriage drivers and guides soliciting business. We got the impression that the country was swarming with them We decided to rest before making any plans. We were hot and sticky. I laid down and went to sleep. When I got up, the Doctor was ready and I soon was prepared for a lark. Atlas, every guide and carriage had a job. There was a great annual Hindu festival and everyone had gone to it. We finally found a nice -2- Hindu boy who thought he spoke English, although I couldn't agree with him on that point. We engaged at jutka, the native wagon of the country. They have two wheels and a cover like an American prairie schooner, but are covered with oil cloth. The whole thing is very small. They are usually drawn by a bullock, but we had a horse, about as big as a good sized rat. The passengers sit on the floor cross-legged, but being of a rheumatic tendency and not having cross-legged enough to do it with ease, we sat in the rear and dangled out legs out the rear. We had to take our hats off in order to manage it, and every two minutes the bumps in the road knocked our heads against the side. I wouldn't recommend this form of rapid transit. [Sketch] sketched by special artist The place we were bound for was the Hindu Temple. We were soon making progress along a road filled with carts like our own, only the others were filled with natives. The Temple stands on an island in the middle of the square "tank" (they call it). I suppose the whole thing is artificial. It was very pretty and surrounded by crowds of people all in their holiday dress, when they had any clothes on at all. Our guide bargained for a boat and we paid the price of a whole load to get it to ourselves, instead of going with a crowd of natives. Some of the boats were round and looked like half a coconut. We were rowed across and visited the temple. At a distance it looked rather picturesque, but it was made of cheap-looking plaster. The expense and wonder was the big tank -3- and the island. The temple was surrounded by a garden and around the border was a stone walk. Here round and round a small procession kept going. First there was the God Siva (it was a Siva Temple). He was an ordinary looking wooden idol but with much paint and gilt and jewels. Four men carried him and behind him came four more carrying his wife. Then came a band, making a noise they called "beautiful music." Then marched a lot of Brahmins. They were mostly without much clothing and were too fat to be pretty, and too greasy to be clean. There were to be a million lights and these were made by placing a small bunch of cotton tied in a cloth on top of the oil poured in a small saucer. These primitive lamps were everywhere. Outside the walk whereon the procession marched, boys were busy filling these saucers. They were forbidden to come near the procession for they were coolies, whereas the others were the highest caste in India. Just as the group was passing, our guide said: These are all high caste Brahmins. A fat, sensual, contemptible-looking creature heard the remark, and immediately assumed one of the haughtiest expressions of face and figure I ever beheld. It was a sight long to be remembered. Poor Fools! We staid until the moon was up. There was to be a procession on the water later, but we saw enough. In the procession there were Nautch girls. These are a caste quite by themselves. They are temple prostitutes, but dance in temple festivities. Siva was fond of dancing. This temple has about 200 such girls. It was a hot night and the crowd was growing uncomfortably thick when we came away. We were amused to see a man constantly walking on the outside by the side of Siva and waving a big fan to keep the dear god cool. -4- There is no hotel in Madura, and we staid at the Station where accommodations are provided for a few people. It was comfortable but here there were no electric fans. So, through the matron, I engaged a punkah puller. A punkah is a thing like this: [*sketch*] hung from the ceiling. The bottom is a ruffle. A rope goes through a hole in the wall, and a coolie sits outside and pulls it wagging the fan.over the bed or table, or what not. Wages have gone up now, so I had to pay 24 cts. to get a puller from 9 p.m. to 8 a.m. It used to be 7 cts. I don't know what is to become of us aristocrats if wages continue to come up in this fashion. The next morning, Saturday, we got a real carriage and went first to see the big Banyan tree. It is the second largest in India and was a wonder. It must have covered a space as big as a city block. (The book says 70 feet circumference) Some times women get the devil in them. Folks say so, and the women themselves believe they have a devil and they ought to know. Then they come to this tree and hang up little offerings and pray to the spirit of the tree and the devils are driven out! We did not have time to get ours extracted, so we have them yet. We visited the old palace of Tirumala Xayak, and then visited the great temple which we had come to see. It was built in 1623 by the man of the palace. It is not very old, and I did not admire anything about it, but it is certainly different from anything I ever saw. It -5- forms a parallelogram of 847 X 729 ft. and is surrounded by a gopurama. These are gates surrounded by a high tower. The highest if 152 ft. These gates are literally covered with carving. The subjects being Siva and his numerous incarnations. Inside the gate, there are streets and other gates through which one goes into the temple proper. The unholy tourist is not allowed to go into the sacred chapels (they do not call them by that name) where the shrines are, but we could see enough. There is a god and much color and carving in each, and the devotee must touch both feet, both hands, stomach and forehead and chin to the ground before him - which means prostrate himself. Every temple in S. India has a hall of a 1000 columns - sometimes a little short. The ceiling is low, the columns unimpressive but the bigness of it all, and the "forest of columns" is rather effective. One young Hindoo guide said there were two million Hindoo gods and he couldn't be expected to know the names of all, and I agree. By this time, we had learned to know the Brahmins. They were the original high caste and now are divided into many castes, but all are superior to all the original lower ones and are greatly looked up to. They are often very rich and are chiefly the educated class. We know them because they are always fat. They eat no meat, but they take much milk and ghee - soft butter. The men of all castes wear no clothing above the waist, are barefooted, and the garment below the waist, are barefooted, and the garment below the waist is considerably abbreviated. The Brahmins wear a cord over the shoulder. Here in Madura we occupied a room together, but each had a bath room! They contained a tub of cold flowing water and a Photo The Eastern Pagoda, Trichinopoly. A good example of the style of Hindu architecture peculiar to Southern India. [*over*] -6- washstand with bowl and pitcher, and what is here called a night chair. We journeyed on some hours and arrived at Trichinopoly. Here we engaged an old man of 72, formerly a Cook's guide. He spoke English well, but when we asked questions,he couldn't answer, if the answer was not in the little piece he had to recite to us. When we came to a point where explanation was required, he would close his eyes and out of past memories would call to mind his former speeches and recite them to us - most of which was in our guide books. Here the Ry station was not so good as at Madura, and there were but two rooms. The moment the train stopped I bounded off, leaving the Dr. to get the baggage out and was first at the booking office where I bought our bed tickets. Before the tickets were handed me, there were others after them, but no beds. In that case, people were permitted to sleep in a car. We went upstairs and found a woman in our room. She had no ticket. Her husband was getting it she said. Meanwhile at least a dozen natives surrounded us, all talking at once and I think each in a different language. It ended by the woman walking out and we walked in. It was 7 o'clock p.m. and after dinner, we went to bed, rising early the next morning for a start while it was cool. This was Sunday, Feb. 4th. We took our old man and a carriage, and went first to Sri Raugam, a temple of great holiness, and the largest in point of territory covered in India. The style is the same as that of Madura, with carved gopurams, but 21,000 people live within its walls, for the streets inside are provided with houses, markets,etc. One passes through seven successive gates to reach the holy of holies,which is not shown. The inner court has eight columns in a -7- row, carved from solid pieces of granite. There are some seven figures, very large, chiefly a raring horse mounted by a rider. The base has many small carvings - the whole being wonderfully well done, but these small things were in the main the kind of things which Anthony Comstock would not approve. They were coitus between men and women, between bulls and cows, etc. I think it is really not so bad as it looks. It is merely phallic worship. When man discovered that he was a father, or could become one, he concluded that life was within him and located it in a certain place, so he began to worship models of this supposed site of immortality. Evidences are all over the East. In Jerusalem, they were seen in the form of grave stones in Jewish cemeteries; in Egypt we saw them in every old temple, and here again they are everywhere. Man thought himseld the creator as usual giving to the mother no important function. From here we went a little way to the Temple of Jawbukeshwar. They are both on the same Island. The first one was dedicated to Vishnu, this to Siva. There are three main Hindoo gods. Brahma, who came first, is the creator, Vishnu,the preserver, Siva the destroyer and reproducer. They form a trinity. This temple is considerably out of repair and we only went into it a little way to get the general idea. As soon as we were sighted the keepers ran after a sacred elephant and it came alongside after we were in the carriage. They do small tricks and then take money, which they present to their keepers. We were wise by this time and not interested in elephants. We next visited the rock, a most picturesque thing. One should climb it and visit the temple on the top, but it was too hot and we contented ourselves with a look at it from below. The old -8- man got anxious to return to his 21 grandchildren, so we dropped him and returned to the hotel in peace. We had some hours to wait and our room was now wanted by the next batch, so we moved to the Station waiting room, provided with an electric fan and very comfortable. We were alone most of the afternoon. Then there came three Brahmin ladies with a baby which the Dr. thought might be eight months old. It had three bracelets on each wrist, two anklets on each ankle and around its waist a gold cord carrying a fig leaf the size of a nickel, and which was a failure as a cover. These people were rich - they wore wonderful jewels. They were barefooted, but their garments were fine. They all sat on the floor - tiled and clean, and the bare baby proceeded to creep all around. It watered and then crept through the brook and sat in it. A wet baby creeping an hour on a stone floor, would be a dead one soon were the baby white. I should like to know how this one came out. The death rate for children here is tremendous. At 8:30 we got our train. It was our first night in India. The compartment was surprisingly large. There were four berths,but we had it to ourselves, so we were exceedingly comfortable. We arrived at Madras at 7 a.m., got to our hotel, Brind's Hotel,breakfasted and were in a carriage ready for a morning stunt by 9 a.m. We went to the P.O. and the bank for mail, and then drove five miles out of town to Annie Besant's Hindoo School. It is beautifully located in the midst of a big tropical garden, brilliant with bloom. It is called the Adyar library. We entered a large hall used for assemblies. We found the secretary, an intelligent,nice Parsee, dressed in European white linen suit, with barefeet on sandal soles. Here we learned what theosophy is, and that they -9- have 23,000 paying members. The officers give their time. This gentlemen gives all his income except that needed for his family to the work of secretary. The library has a rich collection of books, hand-written on palm leaves in Pali, Zind and Sancrit. A group of fat, sleek, bare-bodied Brahmins were classifying, etc. All the people there are theosophists. Here they instruct them so they may lecture for the faith. We were provided with reports, which show that there is some organization in most countries, and had a pleasant, instructive talk with a very intelligent gentleman. We got back in time for lunch. After that we rested abit, each took a bath, put on clean garments and we went out again,taking a drive all around the town. There is a beautiful drive all along the shore where there is music at night ad the fashionables come. The City, except the native town, is modern, and European in character, but so hot I wonder a Westerner can endure it. That night at 9 we took our train again for Bombay, where after one day and two nights we arrived. We ought to have stopped - at least good sight-seers would, but we wanted to get away from the heat. We arrived at Bombay on Wednesday, Feb. 7th, at 6 a.m. We came to the Hotel Taj Mahal. It is a fine big building and there are plenty of bath rooms, but the meals are horrid. We spent the morning in our rooms. I mended my clothes and made ready my big laundry, which here includes sheets, pillow cases and towels, washed my gloves, boiled water, etc. After lunch we rested abit and then drove to the Cama Hospital for women and children. Here Dr.Benson is in charge and we expected help from her. She was not at the hospital, and we went to her house. It proved to be -10- office hours, and so we just begged her to dine with us that night. She reluctantly accepted. We discovered in our evening conversations, that she has been in India 17 years, that she has been much occupied, and is not at all in touch with things elsewhere and not informed about most of the things we wished to know. She has made a great success herself being head of a great government hospital. She has a nice apartment and rides in her own motor. Thursday, Feb. 8th. We dove to the native town, but first I called upon Mr. Cunningham, the American Consul, near by and found him polite and obliging, but utterly ignorant concerning everything I wanted to know. The trip to the native town was as usual amusing. We stopped at a shop, opening into an arcade. The floor was raised the height of a chair from the ground. We sat on chairs outside the shop in the arcade as it were. The shopkeeper barefooted, sat cross-legged on the same level with us. His small boy brought pieces of silks and he showed them, spreading them on the floor which was as clean as any counter. In the afternoon we went first to get permits for the Hindoo burning ghat, and the Parsee Towers of Silence. The latter was in the charities building of the Parsees. There were classes of girls being taught gymnastics, and a crowd of women were waiting to get their monthly stipends. It all seemed to be well organ- ized. I found my visit after the permit rather interesting, so told the Dr. she could go after the Hindoo one, but nothing was entertaining there. At the Ghat, we entered a narrow and gloomy passage through shady trees, and upon arriving at the end we faced -11- a narrow long yard. A row of iron stakes down the center indicated the places for fires. Fortunately for us, a funeral arrived. The body was fastened to a pole and completely covered with white cambric. One man at each end carried the body and was followed by a group of men all in white. They chanted something as they walked - probably an appeal for the good of the soul of the dead. The group of men seated themselves on benches opposite one burning place. A servant swept away the ashes and remains of the last fire, and a new fire was laid, two long pieces of wood forming the frame of it. We did not wait to see the incineration. The body is laid between the long pieces of wood and it is all consumed in two hours. If a hand or foot or bone doesn't get burned, it is wrapped in cloth and is thrown into a holy place such as the Ganges. The ashes left are merely swept away. The mourners stay till the end and women never come. Rich people burn their dead with sandalwood, which is expensive; otherwise all are treated alike. [*] All Hindoos cremate in this way, but although both of us believed in cremation, this place left a bad impression, as it was so gloomy in appearance. Then we went to the Towers of Silence. We mounted some well [*] kept steps and at the top were met by an intelligent attendant who showed us about. It is a beautiful bright garden, full of sunshine, well kept paths and brilliant flowers. Scattered about are five towers. These are merely white walls surrounding a circular interior arrangement. One is for suicides and hospital dead, who have been handled by others than their own caste. The inside of these towers is never open to the public and the mourners -12- do not enter. A model is shown however. The funeral comes with the body in same condition as the Hindoo place. I think it must be naked, or nearly so. Men only attend [come] and they, in groups are connected by handkerchiefs, each having hold of one end. It is a symbol of unity. Bodies of men are The body of a man is laid on the outside row of the funeral, those of [the] women in the middle one, the children next. In the center is a deep well. The body is left and in two hours the vultures, which have been sitting in rows on all the walls of the towers[ns] waiting, and which began a terrible shrieking when the funeral appeared, have picked the bones clean. A few days after the sun has done its work the bones [and they] are swept off into the center. Here sun and water disintergrate them, and through openings the material is carried out to the sea, but filters of sand and charcoal [are prepared and these] pick up the impurities, on the way and the water is rendered pure. Thus they say "earth to earth." The description sounds horrid, but it was far more pleasing than the burning ghats. The Parsees are called fire worshippers, but they only do so as an emblem. They regard fire as a sacred power of God. They are clever, educated, advanced people, and surely could not literally worship fire, although their ancestors undoubtedly did. In a small temple, within the grounds, a fire has been burning since the place was established. [*] We drove over the Malabor Hill, the pit show of Bombay, and were back for dinner. Meanwhile I am reading some books on India which are -13- increasing the interest in the country, but which demonstrate completely the impossibility of entering into the spirit of it on a brief stay. Even those who have lived here long, freely admit they do not understand it, and every author assures his readers that no one ever has understood it. The tremendous number of castes and the rules laid down for them seems to be the trouble. The people of one caste may not marry into another, nor eat with those of another caste. Each caste is governed by its own rules, which are too numerous for any human to know or understand. Surely it is the most complicated society in the world. FRIDAY, FEBY 9th, 1912. BOMBAY. This was the Dr's birthday, 58 years old. She looks not more than 45. On my birthday a month ago, she presented me with a bag of her own making. I went into her room which adjoins mine and presented her with a few trifles before I was dressed, and presented her with my good wishes. After breakfast we leisurely made ourselves ready to start at 10:45 for the Cama Hospital for Women and Children. Upon our arrival we found Dr.Benson performing an operation. The Doctor staid to see it, and I took our carriage and went off in search of a hat. I had sent some on to Batavia and thrown some away, and the only one I had was my solar topi. We had received an invitation to a Purdah party in the afternoon and I could not go without something different. After turning two shops bottom side up, I found a sweet little milliner who rigged me up a headgear suitable to the occasion. I hurried home for lunch and drove back to try on the creation to make sure it was right. I went by way of the bank and got my mail which had just just come in. There were two letters from Mollie -14- which had only been a month in coming. In one she told of the dreadful cold in New York. It sounded strange, for I read it in the milliner shop, sitting under an electric fan, and was in the midst of the hottest of hot flashes. In the other letter she feared I was growing careless in my dress, and here was I waiting for a hat of the palest of blues, decorated with wreathes of flowers! Well, I carried the previous production home with me having paid $10. for it (it would have been $15. in New York). I put on my black satin, donned my new hat and gewgaws. It was a big job for it was so long since I had had real clothes on, I had forgotten how to do it. At last we were off. We went with Dr. Benson in her motor. We found a beautiful house and a charming English hostess. Purdah means curtain, but now when there are women only, it is called purdah. We first had tea and delicious strawberries, and then entered the big drawing room. It was a musicale. I have no idea whether the music was good or not, as my brain was so occupied with what I saw, I could not hear. One native lady played a sitar, an instrument unlike any I ever saw and then I listened. The music was much like that of a guitar. There were a few European ladies, but I had no eyes for them. There were many native ladies, mostly young, and they were so gorgeously gowned, that it seemed like a scene from a story book. I did not know there was so much glitter in all the world. Every woman wore elaborate and costly jewels(for these were all rich people). The gowns were in every instance trimmed with gold lace or embroidery. Many were white. There was a skirt of silk or satin, usually embroidered in silk or gold, and then an overdress which was headdress, shawl and overskirt in one of their materials to match in color. There were dainty white slippers and heavy [*The Phototype Company Bombay*] [*Elephanta The Linga Shrine*] [*The Phototype Company Bombay*] [*Elephanta Shiva the Destroyer*] -15- gold anklets in some cases. It was a wonderful sight. We drove back in the moonlight and saw Bombay from Malabor Hill - a splendid impressive view. We met at the musicale, Miss Serin, a reformer, and now old and crippled with rheumatism. She spoke perfect English and invited us to come to-morrow to see a Parsee wedding. We accepted in great anticipation. February 10,1912. This morning we were up at 7, dressed and breakfasted by 8. Near by is a pavilion and from that point we took a steam launch (Cook's) to an island where are the elephanta caves. To-day there were only three of us, so it was a quiet occasion, the third being an American girl from Chicago. It was a ride of 1-1/2 hours and as the Bay is beautiful with mountains and big rocks to vary the scene, it was most enjoyable. We had to get into a small boat and be rowed to the shore and then walk quite a distance on what might be called a stone wall. That brought us to the foot of a flight of stairs which looked like quite a climb. The others walked, but I took a sedan chair - my first, and was carried up by four natives. It cost 16 cents and saved me much valuable breath. This cave is carved entirely out of the solid rock, and is a wonder, although there are more wonderful ones in India which we shall not see. It is purely a phallic worship temple, but the carvings have been badly damaged by the Portuguese. It was an enjoyable and an easy trip. We got back in time for lunch. Then I took a nap, arose at 3 and drove out looking up some brass shops. I was back at 4; put on my new hat and a few accessories and we drove to the Princess Victoria Mary Gymkana, which means club. This is really a wonderful thing, for here all [photo] THE PHOTOTYPE COMPANY BOMBAY ELEPHANTA The Tiger Cave [photo] ELEPHANTA The Trimurti THE PHOTOTYPE COMPANY BOMBAY -16- kinds of women have united to form a social union. Dr. Benson invited us to tea to meet some ladies. Only one came, but she - Mrs. S. G. Ranaday, near Shakurdwar P.O., Girgaum Road, a Hindoo, will show us some Hindoo schools on Monday. She for her time and place is as much a feminist as I. We watched a game of tennis planed by one Mohammedan, one Hindoo, and two Parsees. Such a thing would not happen outside of Bombay I was assured. These girls were beautifully gowned in their native dress, - one especially in blue. Then we went to the wedding! The Parsees have a special wedding hall, with a garden around it. This garden was filled with men, all dressed in spotless white and in a costume we had not see. There were trousers and a skirt to the knees with a long wide belt wound about the waist, and the stiff hat seen on the street was worn with it. We inquired for our friend and were escorted to the hall, which was filled with women and girls, all in their gala dress. In the center was a platform. we were given seats near by and found amusement in watching the sparkling, glittering, dresses. The came a procession of pretty bridesmaids (costumes not different from that of other guests). They bore a tray loaded with things I do not know just what. They marched out into the yard and to the groom who was seated with the men. He was dressed like all the other men, but heavy wreaths of flowers were around his neck and he carried a bouquet. The tray held the gifts from the bride. The band played Marching through Georgia, and Old Folks at home for their march. When they returned they brought a tray of gifts from the groom to the bride. Her mother-in-law placed large diamond earrings in her ears, as these were on the top of the pile. The other gifts were dresses, and evidently elegant [*THE PHOTOTYPE COMPANY BOMBAY*] [*Elephanta Sculpture of Shiva & Parvati*] -17- ones. At last after much waiting, the groom and the priests came. Two chairs facing each other stood in the middle of the platform. The groom sat in one. Then they held before him a curtain of white and behind it the maids brought the bride. The priests, the Bishop (distinguished by a shawl and thrown over the shoulder) and the bridesmaids and mother-in-laws stood so closely around the two chairs we could see little, but the cloth was held up between them, while a thread was wound around them 25 times. Then it was tied, literally tying them together. Then the Bishop or High Priest said things, and as he did so, he and a priest each threw small handfuls first of pounded almonds, then rice, then shredded cocoanut over the two. Meanwhile he expressed in rather extended speech the things which these articles represent. The almond stands for oil which stills the troubled waters and so means peace. Rice means plenty, and the cocoanut, everything one can desire, since it is food, drink, clothing and shelter. Then blessings were pronounced upon the flower-laden pair, kisses were given, and then came many people who gave gifts to the mother-in-law for the young pair. Meanwhile, during the ceremony when no one could see or hear, they brought us some little refreshment. The guests will have a great feast this evening, and then the bride goes with her husband to his house. One of the mother-in-laws brought beautiful wreaths of flowers, roses (red) and white jasmine, very sweet, and put them on the necks of all the Europeans (5) present. This they do when they wish to honor a person. These wreaths are strung on a string and gold thread woven in, so that it glitters among the flowers like small glowworms. We wore them home and were very grateful that -18- we had had such an opportunity. The young bride was a grand- daughter of the man who gave the Hospital for women and children. and it was a really highclass wedding. About 400 persons were present. It has been a great day, we think. Sunday, Feb. 10th. We arose leisurely and after breakfast I went to a brass shop and bought some things and then wrote till dinner time. After dinner or lunch we mended and wrote, etc. until time to dress, when I again donned my new hat and we drove a half hour out to Malabar Hill to the home of Sir Peroysha Mehta, Nepean Sea Road, Malabar Hill, to whom I had a letter of introduction. It was a queer house built as high as possible. We were led up some flights of steps and through passages to a room which commands a fine view of the sea. The house was tremendously big, and contained many things. It was a cross between a junk shop and a museum. He is a Parsee, and a great man - one of the leaders of the Indian Congress. He is intelligent and fine, but his wife was not his equal. I got some information I wanted and the experience was good. There were other people present. We admired the dresses of the ladies again and had a delightful drive home in the twilight., We now know Malabar Hill as well as a native. Monday, February 12th. We went this morning to see Mrs. S. G. Ranaday, the wife of a doctor. It was a real Hindoo home in a flat. The dining room was a bare room with stone floor, and no furniture. As a concession to Western civilization, they now use a table about six inches high. They sit cross-legged on the floor. This sweet-faced; little brown lady went to England with her husband when he went to study medicine and learned to speak English very well. -19- She is a genuine feminist, and is the daughter of a reformer. He was a Brahmin Samaj, who do not believe in caste of any kind. She took us to see a school for Hindoo girls, where the teachers are mostly theosophists and there were several men - all of whom give their time. That is due to the spirit of the new religion. In the afternoon we went to Alexandra Institution for girls - mostly Parsees. Tuesday, Feb. 13th. We packed in the morning and I went to the American Mission to see what they were doing. After lunch we went with the Dutch Consul for a long motor drive to a textile factory where 300 women are employed. The minimum wages of the women is 5 R, $1.70 per month. More earn 8 R., or $2.56. The maximum for men is 15 R, or one English £ per month. The weavers bring in a small boy to help and thus train him up to this lucrative trade. Only coarse cotton is woven here, but it is a kind used here in India only. We next went to call on Lady Chandwarka, whose husband is a Judge in the High Court. They lived in quite a pretentious house and the reception room had European chairs. The Lady, very fat and black, and a charming daughter, Mrs. Sirur, both spoke English and told us what is being done for the women of India. Now there are three schools for child widows, but there are plenty more. When a girl becomes a widow she takes off the black beads which a married woman always wears and she also removes the caste mark from her forehead. She has a very sad time in life. She must not marry again, but occasionally now they do. This Judge is a Hindoo agnostic and has no religion, but calls himself a reformer. So, he eats meat and eggs for breakfast and sits at a table to eat them. He -20- had to get a Christian cook, for no Hindoo of his own caste (it is customary to have all servants of the same caste as the family) would touch meat. But he sits alone, and the Lady and educated daughter sit on the floor and eat rice with their fingers. The Dutch Consult took tea with us at the hotel, and then we finished packing and were off. We found a wonderful compartment reserved for us, as big as a Harlem Bedroom, and with a bathroom attached. We made our beds before the train started, for no bedding is supplied, gave orders to be locked in, and composed ourselves for a good night. The beds were wide and long and good, but the noise spoiled our anticipation. Wednesday, Feby 14th. We arrived early at Ahmedabad, once a great capital and now a manufacturing City with 55 textile mills and 75,000 people employed, 25,000 being women and children. Maximum wages for weavers, the highest class workmen, is 20 R. per month, or $6.50. We ate our breakfast at the Grand Hotel, the only thing not miserable about it being its name. We took a carriage immediately and a boy who thought he could speak English, but couldn't, as a guide. We visited our first Jain temple, where we took off our shoes and put on others. (Photo 1) It was very pretty and different from anything we had seen. Marks of a red hand were all over the route and we were told that these marks were made by a holy man and we judged it was imitation of blood. The Jains are a sect of the Hindoos and are even more considerate than the Hindoos. All over the City are curious little erections, looking like bird houses. They are feeding places for the birds and are kept by the Jains. We then visited the river where from our view point on a bridge we saw hundreds of men and women washing on -21- the stones and spreading the garments on the sand to dry. We spent the rest of the morning visiting Mosques, for the people in the main are Mohammedans. We visited one place where gold and silver kimkhwab work is done. It is woven into silk which is made on hand looms. It is really very beautiful, but done in such barbaric colors, that nothing of it could be used by us. After lunch we each took a good nap. The Doctor refused to see any more, so I went alone from 4 to 7 and found much more enjoyment than in the morning. We visited a very big lake or tank (See cards 1 to 13) with a pretty garden in the center, and then drove on along a beautiful road over which wide spreading Tamarind trees met, and this led us to the best Mosque there. It was very pretty. On the way, however, I had a grand time. There is a kind of gray ape with white whiskers and a very long tail which abounds here. We had seen them several times from the train. Here they seemed to congregate, so I bought 4 cts. worth of roasted peas and the boy called. They came flocking from all directions, big and little. They crowded close around us and I counted 51. They ate out of my hand and were very tame. I wondered that there were no babies, but when we drove on, I saw several mothers hugging their tiny little ones to their bosoms. I hope the papa apes brought them their peas. In all I must have seen 100 apes that afternoon. That was a beat on any Zoo I ever saw. The boy and I visited a wood-carving place, where I bought a small piece, and a gold and silver working place where I bought a silver elephant. We drove through the native town and on many old houses were wood carvings very rare and fine, for this place has always been the home of wood carvers. As we drove homeward, the people were gathered in the streets around tiny little fires, over -22- which a single pot of supper was cooking. Soon the air at the hotel was filled with smoke. Just why these small fires should have made the air more smoky than chimneys I do not know, but the smoke was there and our eyes were smarting with it so that it was difficult to get to sleep. Dinner over, we were soon in bed, and up the next morning to get our train at 8:20. This town was interesting because it was all natives and native customs that we saw, although there were missions and soldiers, etc. there. Thursday, Feby 15th. We travelled on to Abu Road which we reached at 1:50. I had lunch in the dining car and the Dr. lunched on crackers and apples. It was hot when we got off the train. We were soon loaded into a tonga. This is a two- wheeled cart with sears for four back to back. It looked anything but comfortable, but when we got started we found it much better than we anticipated. We climbed steadily upward, and soon breathed mountain air cool and delicious. We rode 17 miles to Mt. Abu, but the horses were changed five times, so we made good speed. At 4:30 we arrived at the Rajputana Hotel and had a cup of poor tea. Then we entered some rickshas each with three men, two before and one behind, who carried us for a long drive or rise to Sunset Point. At the Catksill House there is such a view - a high point over a precipice looking up and down an old river bed - now a cultivated valley. We saw the sun set and were ready for dinner at 7:30. This hotel is composed of several detached buildings and a man with a lantern escorted us up several steps to the dining room. This is the first place where we have not had mosquito netting tents over our beds. We were glad to learn there were no mosquitoes here. We are now 4500 ft. high. -23- Here is a resort for those who seek relief from the heat below, and there is a school for soldiers, children and a sanitarium here. (Cards 14 & 15 & Photo A.) Friday, Feby 16th. We were up betimes and took rickshas for a ride through the town and around Gem Lake, which is a beautiful placed little lake bordered by clubs and houses. On the hill tops there are at least five grand "castles" which belong to Rajahs who summer here. At about 11:30 we started forth again provided with passes and rickied to the Jain temple which is the attraction of the place. It opens at 12 noon. There are no photos nor postals to be had of the three temples in one enclosure, and I cannot describe them. They are built on a side hill against a background of mountain rock. They are built of marble, the roofs resting on many columns most elaborately and delicately carved. These Jain temples are always a parallelogram, with a raised platform in the middle and also following the walls. Shrines as close together as they can be set rest against the wall with doors of wire in front. The gods are made of marble and the surroundings decorated with much carving. In the chief temple there were ten almost life-sized elephants standing in a row, all decorated with trappings. In another was a horse more than life size, mounted by a rider. These were in the holy of holies where we could not go, but we could look. No one about these temples speaks English, and they will not allow a guide to enter unless he is one of the same faith, and as we have never found a guide who could speak much English, we are not able to learn as much as we would like. These are certainly wonderful temples and -24- apparently they are idol worshippers. Like the Hindoos, however, this may be true only of the less intelligent ones. Our visit here has been restful and pleasant. Now we descent in our tonga to Abu Road once more where we must have a long wait, since we must go down the mountain before dark. Sunday, Feby 18th. We rattled down the mountain Friday eve in a cloud of dust and were fairly white with it upon our arrival. However a beautifully kept waiting room for European ladies with toilet and wash basin adjoining and an old man to brush us off, soon restored us to respectability, and a fair dinner in the refreshment room finished the job. Our car - a very poor old one - was waiting. The fair Aletta lost her temper over it, but for some unknown reason I was in good humor. We were in bed when the trains tarted, but got little sleep until morning when we were so deeply absorbed in it that we arrived at the breakfast station before we were up. So we boiled some water, made tea and ate biscuits with it, which we carried for such emergencies. We arrived at Jaipur at 1 p.m., and came to Jaipur Hotel, finding it about like all the others. After lunch we took a nap and were in a carriage by 4 p.m. We went to see the Maharajah's Palace, a very vast affair and built long ago. All Jaipur is angleworm color, made so by a paint in stucco or put directly on the walls. It is called a pink city, but the pink is crushed strawberry. The buildings are decorated with white stencil work, and there are innumerable balconies of grill work, so that the whole makes a very unique town. There is a lake in the garden of the palace provided with crocodiles and immense turtles which were fed for our benefit. A great flock of kites circled over the lake when -25- the feeding began. The reason was that the feeders have a way of putting small bits of meat on the noses of the crocodiles and the kites swoop down and catch it off as they fly. The Maharajah has three real wives and 1000 concubines. There was a big palace for them where we could not go, nor did wee see a sign of a petticoat! The town itself provided very interesting and at 7 we were home again and ready for dinner. As soon as possible we retired, but some people getting off at 4 a.m. disturbed us and at 6 we were up. At 7 after a light breakfast we were in our carriage and drove to Amber, the ancient capital of this branch of the Rajputs. The old palace there (1600) is "picturesquely rotund on its rocky base, cut from the side of a hill, and is reflected in the lake below." It is a magnificent situation, and forts crown all the surrounding hills. One feature of the excursion to Amber is that the carriages only go to within two miles of the places. One may then choose a small bullock cart or an elephant. We chose the latter. Two other ladies joined us, so we four and the driver rode on it. It got down on its knees, and we climbed up on ladders. The process of sticking on when His Majesty rises or sits down, and when he goes up or down hill is not to be recommended, but elephant riding on a straight road isn't bad. The palace itself now deserted except for attendants, is the finest thing we have yet seen in India, and is clean and really great. Upon our return we had some tea and toast and acknowledged a charming morning's experience. There is a temple in this palace to Kali the Goddess of Destruction, to whom the sacrifice is made every morning of a living goat. This Kali is said to be the one influence which can -26- unite all Hindoos, and the English think the revival in her worship means preparation to destroy the English. They think this is the destruction the worshippers invoke. These Hindoos are such a mysterious people that even old residents of India do not pretend to understand them. After our excursion and tea we rested until 2 p.m., at which time we lunched. All the guests had left the hotel and one new one arrived - an American man with whom it was a pleasure to talk. Then we took a carriage and drove to the Public Garden - a very well kept, orderly, pretty garden, but nothing wonderful. It contains a small Zoo, the chief attraction being a collection of especially fine tigers. They have been captured in this vicinity and one has the distinction of having eaten 15 natives before it was caught, and is supposed to be the largest in captivity. The garden also contains the Museum, a fine building containing specimens of India art. Many things were interesting, but the thing which interested me most was a case of small plaster figures representing Hindoo Ascetics in their various postures of penance. Having seen one at Madura it was instructive to see what other positions they would assume. Salvation seemed to depend on the contortions they could put their legs through. At the Zoo a man came forward and escorted us to the lion and tiger cage. We were followed by 11 native men, who stared at us while we stared at the beasts. Then the tiger man requested a fee. The only English word he knew being finished. Then the porcupine man, the bird man, the monkey man, etc. took us in turn and each demanded his fee. In the museum there came a group of women literally loaded with jewelry and with many -27- anklets tinkling and toes covered with rings. Each woman had a baby. We stopped and stared at them and they at us. We were mutually amused and we enjoyed them as much as the museum. We then rode to the station to engage our seats for tomorrow. Tomorrow morning we shall visit the Jaipur School of Arts where an effort is being made to bring the old arts into use again and to raise them to the old standards. (Cards 16 to 26, photos B & C. Also cards 26 to 45) We shall leave at noon and must ride all day till 10 p.m. to Agra, where the great wonder of all India is to be found - the Taj Mahal. We shall as usual fee the room man, the hot water man, the cold water man, the boot man, the lamp man, the watcher and the waiter, the driver, and having escaped the horde of those who cry bacsheesh, we shall breathe freely till we reach the next port of our visitation. Tuesday, Feb. 20th, Agra. Cecil Hotel. My prophecy concerning the departure from Jeypur was incorrect, as we found a tip box for the servants and no separate fees were given. We enjoyed our last ride through the Pink City and especially the sight of a big ape stealing across one of the chief streets. One trip was without event worth mention, and we arrived at this Hotel at about 10 o'clock. For the first time in India, a European man met us, escorted us to our room and suggested that we each have a cup of hot soup. That seemed more like folks than anything we have experienced. It tasted good too and we hastened to bed. This morning we arose lazily and were ready for breakfast at 9. A rosy-faced woman (who owns the hotel) was buzzing about the dining room. At her suggestion I took coffee - the first time I have had it for breakfast for months. It was good too. We then took a carriage and went to -28- see the Fort. This is an enclosure behind high walls and has a very fine picturesque gate (See Photo 1 and 2). It contains an old palace of Hindoo architecture of red sand stone, built probably by Akbar the first Mohammedan conqueror, about 1560; (No.3) the Pearl Mosque built by Akbar's grandson, Shah Jahan, a beautiful Mosque of white marble, (No.4) called Moti Masjid - (1648-1655 in building) and a wonderful white marble palace. There is a beautiful reception or durbar hall where the emperor received in state amid beautiful marble pillars (No.5), the rooms of king and queen and harem. The balcony in which the queen sat with her women about her and looked down upon the merchants who in the court below were permitted to display their wares, is still perfect and imagination could people the place with the living gay people of that day. A marble open air hall had an immense checker board on one side and a purchase board on the other. The king and queen sat opposite each other and played their games, using human beings for checker men. (No. 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) The palace is located on the river Jumna, and the views of the City in the distance of the famous Taj Mahal are beautiful. It is a dainty, exquisite thing and its vastness gives a very good idea of the splendor of former days. It took us the whole morning to go over these things, although we did pay a visit to the tomb of I'timad-ud-daulah - the mausoleum of the grandfather of the lady of the Taj. It is also an exquisite thing - No.11. It is set in the middle of a big garden - with a red sandstone gate on four sides. (No.12) We also visited the Jama Masjid or Mosque of red sandstone, built also by the same man Shah Jahan. No. 13 shows it on a feast day. This Shah Jahan, -29- a Mohammedan ruler, probably had as many wives as usual with such gentlemen, but he must really have loved one, Mumtaz-i-Mahal. She was the mother of seven children and died giving birth to the eighth. He laid her in the garden of the Taj and then built a tomb for her, which took 22 years to complete. and is known as the finest and most wonderful tomb in the world. No. 14 is a photograph of an old painting of Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz. Poor Shah Jahan was made a prisoner by his son Aurenzeb for seven years in the Mina Mosque, which had been built for his own use and is the smallest mosque in existence. When he died he asked to be brought to a part of the palace where he could gaze every minute on the beautiful Taj. A fair sight it was and perhaps he knew the world would recognize its greatness some day. In this great palace in the Mutiny (Sepoy Rebellion, 18) of '57, 6000 people were gathered for safety and could easily be accommodated. Not only did the king and queen play checkers here, but from the Jasemine tower, they looked down into a court where elephants and tigers fought, and in a little corridor containing many turns and doors, they played hide and seek. In the late afternoon we went to see the great tomb. It is surrounded by a great red sandstone wall, with a wonderful gate on each of the sides except one which is on the River. The tomb stands in the midst of a beautiful well-kept garden. No. 15 is the view from the river in which the shadow is cast. The buildings seen at both extremes are bits of the two gates. No. 16 is a view from one side showing reflection in water between the walks, and No.16-1/2 a most distant view. No. 17 is the grill around the tombs in the center of the building. The whole is constructed of white marble, picked out in black and ornamented with the pietra dura work or -30- marble. The day has been a wonderful one and most impressive. Here for the first time we have found truly great beautiful and constructive art. See 18-19-20-21-22-23-24 See 25-25-26-27-28-29-30-31-32-32-36 37-38-39-40-41 (see 34-35-36 later) THURSDAY, FEBY 22nd. Yesterday we decided to rest. I wrote letters until noon, and then went to the bank for money. The bank was located in an old residence. Behind a fence a number of men cross-legged on the floor were keeping books or counting money. The man who waited on me was barefooted and wore an immense pink turban. Afterwards we shopped and I bought a nice ivory elephant. At 2 p.m. we lunched, took naps, and I laid on my bed and read, and the Doctor wrote her weekly letter. As we had worked hard the day before and had a hard day to-day, a rest was agreeable. To-day, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Sidney Webb of London, we took a four-seated motor and went to Fetipur Sikri, which means City of Victory. The greatest of the Mohammedan Emperors, Akbar, the grandfather of the man who built the Taj, was in distress because he had no heir to his throne. So he consulted a Saint who lived in a cave. The saint went through some ceremonials and announced that if his wife would come there to stay, the Emperor would have a son. It came about as predicted. The Dr., being of a wicked turn of mind, thinks the saint was the father of the child! However that may be, Akbar in gratitude built a city on the spot and made it his capital. Seventeen years later, for reasons unknown, he moved to Agra, 20 miles away, and Falipur Sikri was deserted. The remarkable thing is that 300 years have not -31- destroyed the buildings. We arrived at 10 a.m. and wandered about until 2 p.m. climbing to some high places (36) where beautiful views could be had. There were many beautiful buildings inside a high wall, elaborately carved. The finest is a Mosque, very beautiful and in the court is the tomb of the Saint - the gem of the whole place (34). The ceiling of the canopy over the tomb is exquisite mother of pearl, and the tomb is surrounded by screens of beautifully carved marble. Pictures never do justice to such things. 34 is the tom of the Saint in white marble, the domes behind being part of the Mosque. 35 is one of the buildings - all are made of red sandstone. 36 gives a general view of the ruins. The colannaded building in front is curious. We climbed to the top. At two we returned to the motor and ate our lunch, the Webbs returning later. We had to wait for them to eat lunch and then smoke. We got back in time for tea and since have had a nap. It has been pretty hot to-day and I do notlike heat. Friday, Feby 23rd. This morning we went by carriage some five miles away to see Akbar's tomb. These celebrated tombs are great buildings set in the center of a big square garden, with a gate in each of the four sides. This was really a wonder. We climbed to the top where we got a splendid view. We got an early lunch a nd by 2 p.m. we were in our train bound for Gevalior. We arrived at 5 p.m. and in a few minutes were in a carriage driving about to see this town. We visited the Maharaja's Palace and were able to see the State apartments. He has but one wife, although he will probably take another soon, as she has no children and a successor to the throne must be looked after. We saw his stables where some -32- hundreds of horses were cared for and also 18 elephants. The baby and his ma are worth about $1500. here. Saturday, Feby 24th. Gwalior. This morning we took an early start and went out to see the Fort which is the lion of this place. It is very old and is located on top of a flat big rock. There is an old palace, some temples, etc. and on the side of the rock there are sculptured figures of gods - one 50 feet high, supposed to be Jain work. They are certainly wonderful as some kind of support must have been made for the workman and it is not easy to see how it could have been done. It is a hard steep climb to the top of the fort, and we went on an elephant at $1.00 a seat. To ride an elephant on a straight road might become endurable with experience, but to go up hill or down hill is such a strain upon the muscles and nerves, that it is equal to passing through an earthquake. We came home pleased with our morning, but utterly tired out. There was time for a brief nap before lunch and we then took our train for Delhi. We had to get into a compartment already occupied by two young men, These Indian compartments are luxurious for two, for each has a couch and can lie down, but they are a trial when more come in as there is no back to the seat, yet tired as we were we had to endure this experience for six hours. We found uncomfortable rooms but a good dinner at the end of it at Maiden's Hotel, and tried to sleep the sleep of the just. Sunday, Feby 25th. Delhi had always been the climax toward which we looked as the best thing to be seen in India. At the great Durbar in December the king had announced that the Indian Capital would be moved from Calcutta to Delhi. It was the old Hindoo capital of India and later the Mohammedan Capital. An old poem -35- called the Mahabharata, is perhaps the oldest literature in the world. It is supposed to be the recital of the history of a battle which took place on the spot where Delhi stands. The ground there is certainly the scene of very ancient history, so we anticipated. Alas, there isn't much there but ground, and it was a great disappointment. To-day we went to the Kutab Minar - the seat of an old Capital. There are ruins there showing to the observer sufficient evidence that there were once wonderful buildings there. The chief thing now is the Minar (Photo 42) which is truly wonderful. Built in 1503 it is still perfect. It was a long drive of 20 miles and we only returned in time for 2 o'clock lunch and decided to do no more that day. The whole distance was dotted with very old tombs - some very wonderful. We stopped to see one- Nawab-Saplar Jang. (photo ) In the evening we drove to the great Durbar grounds. A great pavilion was erected for the reception itself, roads made for the procession, and tents erected to give shelter to the people. The whole thing took place on a flat bare prairie, with nothing to start with. (Delhi has no bookstores, two small banks where men sit crosslegged and no sewer.) Monday, Feby. 26th, Maiden's Hotel, Delhi. We paid a visit to the Fort and found in the private Durbar Hall the gem of all India. It is made of white marble elaborately decorated with inlaid marble and much gilding. It is in beautiful taste. I wanted to put it in my pocket and bring it home. (Photos 47-48-49-50-51) A public Durbar hall (52-53) also good once, contained the peacock throne so called because the back was composed of two peacocks tails spread (probably in laid work and thickly studded with gems). It -34- was probably the most costly throne any King ever had. There is nothing now but the marble throne. There is also a dear little "pearl mosque", (54 and 55) much like that at Agra, but smaller. Auranzeb, Son of Shah Jehan, thought his father a bit daffy when after the wonderful buildings he had made, he wanted to add a black marble mosque and a silver bridge across the Jumna. So the son shut the father up in the Palace at Agra and then he began to build, and this little mosque is one of his extravagances. There were also some bathing rooms which for luxury must exceed any in the world. We did a little shopping and drove through the native town and got home for lunch at 2. (56) We took a rest, packed and were on our train for Lahore at 8 o'clock. We had another lady in our compartment this. We did not like it and neither did she. At eight next morning we were in Lahore. Tuesday, Feby 27th, Lahore. We took a drive around the town morning and afternoon, visited a Mosque containing a hair of the prophet's beard, and found the native town particularly varied and interesting. (See photos. 63 to 68) Wednesday, Feby 28th. We went on to Amritzer, the Sikh holy city in the morning, and took an afternoon train for Lucknow. We visited a factory where cashmere shawls were made, took an interesting drive through the native town, a drive to the fine buildings of the Sikh College for boys where some hundreds of fine- looking men are students, and to the Golden Temple, the Sacred Temple of Sikh's, where thousands come as pilgrims every year. We found it disappointing. The priests were chanting from the Grauth (their scripture). Those we saw here, sitting on the floor in a circle, were dressed in white and their clothes were stained with much pink and yellow, which looked as if they had been making jelly. On the floor in the center was a cloth stained with -35- the color and filled with flowers. We met men with baskets of offerings of sweets and fruits and coppers. One man had his sweets blessed and was giving them away to the beggars. We thought "poor fool!" (Photo postals 69 to 82) Saturday, March 2nd, Benares. We had difficulty to get a place in the train, but after raising Ned as an American plus the Dutch lady knows how to do, we got a compartment with a lower and an upper berth and got on to Lucknow. There we found the most comfortable hotel we have yet seen in India, and a town of broad streets, beautiful modern buildings, and in all a charming place, but there is nothing good to see. We rested in the morning, having had none too good a night, and went out for a drive in the afternoon. This place was besieged in the Mutiny for seven months. The people were inside the Residency. This is a place of great interest to the British naturally. The shot ridden ruins are kept in a beautifully cared for garden, (Photos 75 to 80). We left rather reluctantly and came on to Benares in a luxurious compartment. This is the holy city of the Hindoos and are the Hindoos are India. Literally millions of pilgrims come here every year. The Ganges flows through the city and that river is sacred and holy from its beginning in the mountains to the outlet in Calcutta. If a Christian or a Jew or a thief or a murderer should die in Benares, he will go straight to Siva's heaven. We arrived yesterday afternoon, (Friday) and as soon as it was cool we took a drive. We went through the streets of the town and to the monkey temple. (Long Photo 81) The temple is little more than a shrine and stands in the middle of a walled enclosure, full of trees. Some 200 monkeys inhabit these trees and are well fed by -36- visitors who buy pop corn at the gate. We played with them awhile and then fell to talking with three bright, educated, intelligent men from Calcutta. They were pilgrims and it was good to have an opportunity to ask questions of some one who could answer. This is a temple of Durga. She was never married. a fact which accounts for her terrible temper doubtless, as she is the goddess of destruction. She has many hands and each one holds an instrument of destruction. Every Tuesday a live goat is sacrificed before her. It is not plain what the fools think they are doing when they come to worship. This morning (Saturday) we left the hotel at 7 and drove to the Ganges. There we took a boat and rowed up and down the river. There is a high bluff on one side with many flights of stairs to the river. Every other spot is covered with little temples or houses for pilgrims. Several have been built by rich Hindoos and pilgrims may stay there without pay. It is picturesque in a picture, but the reality is that of a shambly, dust covered ruin. Along the river front the people are to be seen from 5 to 9 a.m. bathing and saying prayers. They pray to God (a few), more to the river and some to the Sun. They say the name of God on beads 25 or 100 times. There are also some fools called holy men - too disgusting for words. We were home for breakfast at 9 o'clock, and then went to the Hindoo College, established by Mrs. Besant, and of which she is president of the Board of Directors. There are 1200 boys in it. It is a purely Hindu school, whereas the Theosophists seem to have charge of it. They have one in Ceylon for Buddhists. Next we went to see the school for girls under same management, and found a beautiful woman, Miss Arondale, at the head of it. The school was -37- suspended just now on account of the plague, but she gave us much valuable information. After lunch and a rest we went out again and saw some temples. One is the cow temple. It had live bulls running around loose. They are sacred, of course. We saw three, all dirty, disgusting, beastly. We the went to river again. There are always people there. A very small shrine contains the smallpox goddess. I saw a nice young father with three children make offerings to her, and touch all the children's heads with holy water from a tank before her. Smallpox has made terrible scourges as one may see from the pit-marked faces, and now vaccination is compulsory, but the goddess is doubtless more efficacious. On the river bank two places are set aside for burning ghats. We saw a woman burning this morning and two others were being carried down this afternoon. Only men go to the funeral. They sit around and see the corpse burn. At a proper time, a dear friend, a son if the dead is a father, cracks the skull so as to let out the soul! We didn't see this done, unfortunately. I cannot record the deep, disgusted impression I have of this place. Meanwhile, my "gentle readers" will understand that I am reading a great deal and that this brief account gives little idea of what I have got out of India. At this point the diary keeper got tired and a hiatus occurred. However, we went from Benares straight to Calcutta, a distance of some 16 hours. We arrived early in the morning and had our breakfast at the Gt. Eastern Hotel. We had to use our electric fans whenever we were in the room, it was so hot. But we had each a nice bathroom with hot water and a stationary tub. We made out arrangements to go to Darjuling, went to a fine book- -38- shop where I got several books, did a little shopping, slept or tried to in the middle of the day, and drove in the evening to the place where the fashionables go. It is a pretty drive by the sea, but not so fine as that of Madras or Bombay. We found our trip to Darjuling was rather a hard one. We had to get off our train and go on a ferry which goes not across but up the Ganges to the other side, and there we got our sleeper at 10 p.m. We had to rise at 5:30 to get ready to change again for the narrow- gauge, which climbs the mountains. That takes about five hours. The trip is a beautiful one, the road winding in and out, always climbing higher. We arrived at noon and found a poor hotel where we had to climb three flights of stairs to our room. We therefore staid only two days. I wore woolen stockings, tights, woolen underskirt and overskirt, a wool suit with a thick waist, and had a hot water bottle for bed. The change was too sudden. Darjuling is 7000 ft. altitude. It was delightful walking during the sunny part of the day. The people are Thebetian, Nepalese and Bhutian. The women are porters and carry trunks, big ones, on their backs, while little children tag along after their mothers. These women sell curios carrying them tucked away in their clothes. They are very clever indeed. The views are beautiful, the air bracing and it is a fine place for the British to come for recuperation. We returned to Calcutta as we had come, but this time we crossed the Ganges in the early morning and saw the sun rise. It was a sight long to be remember. (Postal cards 70 to 76 to 87) There is little to see in Calcutta. We visited the Museum and I went to see Dr. Platt of the Woman's Hospital, and there I met Capt. Clifford who gave me advice to go to see Mr. Bannerjee of the Bengate. I did, but the office was closed. I -39- went on Monday again, and found a bright, enthusiastic, young Hindu, who took me to see Miss Mitta a graduate of Calcutta University, and a wonderful brown girl. I lost my heart at once. We returned to the Bengate, and I saw Mr. Bannerjee and had a nice talk with him - a charming gentleman. On Tuesday we left Calcutta for Rangoon, arriving there Thursday evening. It was a beautiful boat and there were only seven passengers. It was hot but delightful. At Rangoon we found the worst hotel in our trip, and it was hot as tophet. We gave up going to Mandelay after having bought our tickets, as we concluded we could not stand the heat. We got an order for more tickets to be bought of Cooks, and in this way we got our money back. We had to stay in during the middle of the day, but we had the greatest fiasco of our whole trip the first morning after our arrival. We went by carriage to a timber yard where we expected to see elephants at work. They told us we must walk and we did walk and walk until my blood boiled. We were rewarded by seeing one little elephant, and it took me two days to recover from the jaunt. Every evening we took a drive and at least four times we went to the Royal Lakes, one of the most beautiful drives I have ever seen. It was moderately cool there in the early evening, and there was always a beautiful sun set. All the European portion of Rangoon seemed to be there at that time and especially when there is music, and there was twice. Once we drove to Kemendine to visit a Baptist Girls school and talked with two Americans at the head - the narrowest minded and least competent the imagination can paint. Finally we found a leading Burmese woman - Mrs. Ma May Hla Oung - one of us in every point except experience and religion. She is a Buddhist. I hope to -40- keep in touch with her now. We were glad to leave Rangoon on account of the heat, although we had enjoyed our drives and visits to the Pagodas, etc. We flew out of the frying pan into the fire, however. The boat - the Dilivara, ought never to be used in the Tropics. It has no fans in the room, no chairs on the deck. Two nights are passed, however, and this date, March 24rd, is nearly at an end. To-morrow morning early, we arrive at Penang. We shall find more heat doubtless, but in one sense it ends India for us. I have not recorded impressions - that would be impossible. I am glad to have had the opportunity of a visit to India, but I am glad it is over. I suppose I shall feel the same about the Dutch Indies also. To return to Rangoon. The Golden Temple was visited twice - once in twilight, when all disorder and decay and blemishes were hidden, the other in daylight. A little temple with great beasts on either side is really the entrance. When at the top of these stairs (postal 90) there is but a platform and more stairs, so one climbs on and on up steps which cannot be seen from the road below until the top of the hill is reached. This is levelled so as to form a huge platform. In the center is the Golden Pagoda (Postal 92). Each is supplied with idols of Buddha, and an altar. The people, men, women and children, came with flowers which they might buy from little Burmese ladies on the stairs, and after kowtowing and saying their prayers they placed the flowers on the altars. Palm trees are everywhere and a broad circular streets surrounds the big Pagoda, with its circle of shrines and outside is another circle of many shrines, big and little. A rich -41- man or woman may "acquire merit" by building such a shrine, and some more evidently vastly expensive. Two or more were made of glass mosaic and were effectively pretty. The architecture is rather Chinese I should say, and the decoration is a mass of color. It is a pity that there are no good pictures to be had. The Buddhist priests shave the head, and wear yellow robes. They must beg their food once a day, and although now the food is provided for many by devotees, yet a procession of them with begging bowls may be seen in the native quarter any day about 11:30. They may not receive money - only food. I never saw one with a holy or spiritual face. They are nearest to Nirvana, and hope to escape some incarnations by living lives of renunciation. I think they have a good time with nothing to do. I should certainly renounce clothes and hair if I lived in Burmah. There are nuns too, and as they have shaved heads and wear the same garment, one cannot be distinguished except by the color of the robe which is lighter yellow. I wanted to abscond with one young pretty one with begging bowl on her head. (See postals 98-99) As we did not go to Mandelay, I got some postals of some of the Pagodas and of the Palace at Mandalay. (100 to 110) There are many kinds of people in Burmah. The Burmese are a highly developed people, but the men are lazy. The women do much business and keep little shops and vote, and are simply adorable! (See postals 111 to 115) The missionaries have not converted Burmese to any extent, but have been successful with primitive tribes whose worship is animistic or nature worship (116 to 123) Postal 125 is what we nearly killed ourselves to see and 126 -42- looks like the very elephant we saw. 127 is a sight most familiar. 128. These people come to hotels and do juggling and show off their snakes whenever anyone manifests an interest. (See 129, 130, 131, 132) When we visited a Buddhist school we saw boys and girls sitting together. There were nearly four hundred pupils. They would soon have lunch. The children would pay for it. The dish which looked most inviting was a round patty cake of boiled rice with cocoanut milk sauce. This was served in a green leaf doubled to make a bowl and fastened with a thorn. A few preserved cherries were put around it. Rangoon is a beautiful city with many tree-lined streets and nice-looking villas. It is always hot, but was exceptionally so while we were there. We arrived at Penang in the morning, and after a medical examination we were permitted to land. We found the so-called best hotel full and only by browbeating a little woman did we get in a Raffles. She had one of her best rooms reserved for a man, but he didn't appear, so we got it. March 24th, Sunday, As Usual we had to stay in during the middle of the day. Toward evening we took rickshas and went to the Botanical Garden, the great sight of Penang. We rode through beautiful streets, tree bordered. Like Ceylon, the vegetation covers all the blemishes and it makes a beautiful city. Monday morning we went out early to get our passage to Deli. We went by the Mansfield Line - S.S.Calipso, which sailed Tuesday, March 26th. We did a little shopping - the doctor a good deal, and -43- then crawled in our hole for the heat of the day. Toward evening we got a carriage and drove to the Chinese Buddhist temple. We climbed up many steps and on each plane found little shrines, with flower gardens, tanks full of big turtles, etc. Nowhere did they beg of us, but they offered us tea for which we would have paid, had we taken it. The temple was quite a different thing from any we had seen and very enjoyable. (Postals 134 to 139) Postals 40 to 147. When it was time to leave we made a bargain with the hotel runner to get us and our baggage aboard, and we went to the wharf in a ricksha, the baggage starting at the same time. We waited and waited and then made inquiries as to whether we were in the right place. We were, but perhaps the baggage had gone to another place, so we got a ricksha and tore off, visiting two other wharves where no one spoke English and then tore back. We entered a Sam pan, as the little boats are called, and the two men started us off. We had gone ashore in a launch and we did not know the bar was bad, but I thought my hour had come. When at last we reached our boat, I almost dispaired of getting on it, but a miracle was performed and I did. Our baggage was there and as the sinner couldn't understand English, I couldn't scold. It was hot, and I had got so scared and so mad that I was about done for. The Doctor said the view of my calm back was the only thing which kept her quiet. The boat was nice, clean, and we each had a room. The night was pretty warm but we slept some and arrived early at Deli. There we found three nice Dutch suffragists to meet us. They presented us with bouquets, a hotel runner, looked after our baggage and directly we were on the train, riding through cocoanut -44- jungles toward Medan. We found more ladies to meet us there. We found Hotel DeBoer an excellent one and at lunch we met our first rice table, a celebrity of the Dutch colonies. They call their luncheon by that name, but not always do they have the thing. First they bring a soup plate, then rice, and this is followed by a succession of dishes, all going into the same plate. I liked it. The ladies took us for a drive in the evening. We found a European town, with beautiful tropical bungalows with great verandahs, buried under palm trees. It was most picturesque, and I could hardly realize I was in far away Sumatra. In the corner of my room was a room (?) covered with fine wire gauze. It was more airy than mosquito netting, and also kept out the little lizards which are everywhere with their chuck-chuck. They fall off the wall sometimes, and although harmless, I didn't think I'd like the feeling. Thursday morning we went to see a Chinese lady. Her husband is called Major and is head of the Chinese. Postal 150 will do very well for it. The daughter who had been educated in a Dutch School took us over the house. The mother was a real feminist. She has refused to marry until her husband promised never to take a second wife, and she interested herself in advanced things, She was well on with a fifth child, and the day before she has visited five Chinese Temples, where she had made offerings to the gods so that she could come through all right. The result was her knees were lame and she excused herself from going upstairs with us. We also calledon the widow of the previous Major. Both were grand houses. In the first there is a bride's room and the little maid, (16 years old) will be married in October to a man -45- she will not see until after she is married to him. Her mother refused to marry until she had seen her husband. They explained the ceremony to us. In the evening, the ladies sent a carriage and we drove about the town ourselves. On Friday Mch 28 we went in the afternoon to see a great Tobacco estate. The manager and his sister live in a charming bungalow, set down in a beautiful park. The estate has about 4000 acres and about 1000 chinese are employed. We had tea afterwards and were told that they found a poison snake in the house nearly every day. Everything is open in these houses. The drawing room will have three sides open. Saturday Mch 29 we were left to ourselves until evening, when we had a suffrage meeting of 200 people. I made a brief speech and the hard work fell on the Doctor. They got sixty names for a club. My but did we sweat! Sunday Mch 30 we took tea with Mrs. Van Hengel, one of the splendid women, and on Monday, Apr 1 we went early by motor to Pankalan Braudan, a town in the petroleum district, where we had a meeting before dinner in the evening, dined at 9:30 and returned in the moonlight. On Tuesday we dined with Mrs. Linergoot, the other leader. Each day we breakfasted at nine. By the time we were through it was hot. I sewed a little, mended, etc. then we lunched at 12, and immediately took off every dud and went to bed where we staid until 4:30. Usually I fanned myself all the time. By 5:30 we were dressed and went into the garden where it was beginning to cool. The nights were charming, the days dreadful. However, it was most unusually hot they said. On Wednesday, April 3rd, the ladies saw us off at 9:30, -46- presented us with flowers and we came to the S.S.VanNoorb of the Royal Dutch Packet Line. As soon as the ship started there was a nice breeze. After lunch I had a nap on a settee on deck, and read an Indian novel. After dinner I finished the novel and had another deck nap. With a fan my room was comfortable, and I slept well. To-day, April 4th, (Thursday) I have been bringing this record to date. To-night some time we shall reach Singapore, and Sunday morning early we shall reach Batavia - the hottest place on earth they tell us. In Medan we had delicious pineapples and Sawai Manilas - a fruit which looks like a potato, but has a soft, delicious, pulpy interior. In Penang we went to market and bought some fruit of new variety which we had not seen. They tell us there will be a much greater variety in Java. Mrs. Kunst, brought us fruit and coffee extract and brought to each of us a package of postals. We had not been able to find any ourselves. I called her the Dutch Angel. About 5 o'clock, Miss van de Cappelle, the sister of the manager of the tobacco plantation, telephoned to invite us to go motoring. We accepted and were soon on the way. We rode until 7:30, and had a glorious time going to the foothills of the Batak mountains. We saw the sun set and the moon rise. I sat in front so as to allow the Dr. to talk Dutch with the hostess, and I liked the freedom from conversation. I shall not forget the long avenues of palms meeting overhead, nor the tobacco-covered terraces of the mountains. Great blue mountains rose in an impressive range. The tobacco of Sumatra is sent all over the -47- world to be used as covers for cigars, but they only get a crop once in eight years, the other seven the land lies idle. Then they burn it off and plant it. The planters are making immense fortunes, nevertheless. Thursday, 5 P.M. April 4th, 1912. On Board Van Noorb, Royal Dutch Packet Line, En Route Belawan, Sumatra to Batavia, Java. Carrie Chapman Catt. Diary illustrated by 176 postals and 89 photos. Transcribed and reviewed by volunteers participating in the By The People project at crowd.loc.gov.