Catt, Carrie Chapman Diaries, Java, Apr. 5 - July 1, 1912 [JAVA] Did you ever hear of Suroekarta? Probably not. It is the old capital of the long extinct Hurdu Empire of Meataram on the Island of Java. It is still an Empire with a Susuhunan at its head, who thinks he rules by the same divine right as did his ancestors; but the Dutch will know that they are doing all the governing there is, and that the power to do so springs solely from their earthly wits All the [?] forms ceremonies and glories of the old time empire are still maintained but the old Susuhunan must ask the Dutch "Resident" for permission to take a drive or walk outside his Kraton. Just now (June 1912) one of his 36 children is dying so he took him to a country palace with 2 permission of the "Resident" who kindly provided a guard of honor to accompany him. It provided color, and ornament to the royal display and tricked the royal family and only the Dutch knew they were merely restraining a virtual prisoner from doing mischief. In this Empire the Prime Minister gave a reception and we, wonder of wonders were invited. He lives in a a very grand place constructed on the pavilion plan common to Java Along the front of the royal estate stands the official reception hall. It is open on all four sides, the roof resting upon beautiful marble columns The floor was paved with alternate blocks of black and white marble. A broad marble walk possibly ten feet wide, led from the hall 3 to the Entrance which was indicated [marked] by more marble columns with a pediment [lintel bearer] overhead. As I alighted from our large Dutch carriage drawn by the smallest pair of horses we had ever seen, a Javanese gentleman stepped up and offered me his arm. I saw another doing the same thing to my friend. We then marched in slow procession with great dignity keeping careful step with our guides to the steps leading up to the hall. There stood the Prime Minister He wore the usual sarong - a piece of cotton cloth home woven and dyed and ornamented by a special pattern worn by all his family and by no one else in Java. This strip cloth is worn tightly wound around the legs reaching a little below the knee. It is the pattern 4 from which the "hobble skirt "was designed but it was used for thousands of years in this part of the world before the style reached Paris. The Prince [Muruska?] wore a Dutch military coat rank, Colonel and was decorated with a belt which held a jewelled "Kriss, Javanese dagger in place. He was barefooted. I made the most courteous bow, in the very grandest manner I could command and march on keeping step with my guide. He was a Noble, a very high Noble and was the personification of the most haughty dignity possible. He was as straight as an arrow. He wore the sarong ornamented by his family's "batik" motif Over his head he wore a many colored turban with a Kabaija (short jacket) of pale blue brocaded silk. The sarong and Kabaija 5 were connected by a broad belt fastened in front by an immense buckle studded with diamonds while from the back a diamond ornamented belt with a Kris protruded. My Noble also was barefooted. Before us stood a semi circle of chairs In the center stood Mrs Prime Minister with her two daughters All three wore sarongs exactly like that of her husband. The mother wore a flashing diamond ring on each first and little finger, large diamonds shone resplendent from each ear and several smaller ones here and there lighted her black hair. An immense diamond broach resembling an ancient military breast plate filled in the space left open by her purple brocaded Kabaya. She wore no stockings but her toes were delicately covered by gaily embroidered sandals The daughters and most guests were barefooted and in this land of tropical heat, it is a wise good fashion. I made a stately bow and here my Noble left me. A committee of guides surround us and escorted us onward. We paused for a drink of pink lemonade and marched on in a tour of the entire palace. From one pavilion to another, continually passing into courts and gardens which seemed interminable. The Palace was illuminated by electricity, but the courts and gardens were lighted in the ancient oriental way. Tambers of coca oil, with a flaming wad of cotton on the top hung from the trees and all available places The arrangement provided a dim twilight, greatly assisted by a brilliant star lit blue sky from which a full moon spread its effulgent rays over all. In every court and garden groups of men and women were sitting bare legged upon the ground. The men were bare to the waist, the womens clothing was drawn up tightly to the arm pits and this was and had been for no one knows how long - the court dress We were told that there were "a" thousand of these men and women and that they were the servants of the Great House. The romantic emotions the full moon has always aroused the human race was accentuated here but the mysterious lights in the hills the very gently swaying palms, the sweet perfume of the mango blossoms and the living bronze statues scattered everywhere about, each making his obeisance with hands clasped palm to palm whenever their master or his staff passed made [It was] a picture unlike any we had ever seen and seemed to draw us backward through centuries to a period outword and forgotten. We had no dreams of royalty that night but we did dream of full moons light [emerging?] and slaves, (diary, 1911) Three Dutch Islands 1 Java. Dr Jacob had a sister in Batavia who had been an apothecary there for thirty years. She had provided us with a babu (a maid who would wait upon us) We agreed to pay $6.50 per month. When the babu learned [how much] the wages we would pay she clapped her hands with delight Out of her wages she fed herself. Every day she went to market and bought us mangosteens and Rhambutans At that date the fruit dealers had offered £30 to any Captain of a ship who would take a basket of mangosteens to the Queen of Holland When the hard purple fruit is cut open, a snow white [tiny] center consisting of little 2 segments like an orange is found, and all agree that these inner fruits are the most deliciously delicate food morsel in the entire world. We voted the Rhambutan the second best. In after years I believe the Queen of Holland received in good condition the basket of Mangosteens for which some Captain of a ship received the £30 offered. We held many suffrage meetings in Java but naturally they were conducted in Dutch and therefore the main speeches were made by Dr Jacobs. I made little speeches usually interpreted. [] We met the wife of a naval officers who had lived on many islands, Borneo Celebro Mulucea and even Guiana The people were sometimes [often] very primitive and she was often afraid, especially of the Papuans. 3 One day she was alone and a large number of these Guiana or Papuan people, men, women and children came to her hill and demanded to see her legs! The legs of all white people were always covered by clothing, those of the natives, never. She put them off successfully for a time but was getting frightened. Fortunately her husband arrived. He told her visitors that white women never showed their legs but he would show his, so he removed his pants. They quietly looked him over and went away. [quietly] They only wanted to know whether these white folks were really white all over! The Doctor added 300 new members to the Dutch Suffrage Association] at the meetings 4 we held in the Dutch Indies. As the Doctor was writing reply letters to Dutch papers all the Dutch were anxious to show him all the wonders of their 1000 islands called the Dutch Indies On April 30 we went to see Lake Marrindjoe and stayed overnight at the Governments Pasanggrabau (rest haus). We squezed ourselves into a little bendie? drawn by one horse about the size of a rat and another about the size of a mouse The harness was primitive, the lines were rope and our driver was a boy with whom we could not speak. When we went up hill we had to take strong hold of the front lest we spill over the back and when we went down hill, we had hold tight to the back lest we find ourselves on top of the rat and the mouse which were called horses. We arrived lame and sore with black and blue spots, bumps corns and bunyans ailing us. We found the Pasanggrabau with a huge banyan tree in front and fenced in by a 5 hedges of blossoming roses. We had to sleep together again much as we disliked it but the bed was 8 ft wide and we made a bridge between us with two leg pillows never missing in a Dutch Indies bed. The lake is a mighty crater. The walls [*see * top pg 25 omit all within ( ) Go to A page 26 over 27 to sugar mill.*] We visited schools, homes pastors? and markets and learned much concerning the people ruled by the mothers. We took teas in several houses, one had seven women in it, the mother, six married daughters When a husband visits a wife, he stays a weekend sleeps with her, eats with her but does not eat with other members of the family. We went back to Padang and there we had dining parties and suffrage meetings and a real party. The Dutch people who gave it lived in a large bungalow which stood in the middle of great grounds. The 6 trees were hanging with Chinese lanterns and the flower beds orchid house all much lighted native fashion with tumblers full of coconut oil on which floated a lighted bit of cotton. The place where the guests sat was pebbled as so many live things abide in the grass An entertainment was given. A gamelon band played, a Javenese dancing girl, a row of native young men posed and marched. Two stepping forth and had a kicking match. Several games which indicated that they could do anything a boneless man might do. Meanwhile a dinner was served us, A hot [pal?] dish and of meat potatoes mushrooms and young stems of a fern. A fruit punch, a nice salad made of strange things just before eleven we finished with coffee sugar cakes 1. THREE DUTCH ISLANDS 1. Java. - Dr. Jacobs had a sister in Batavia who had been an apothecary there for thirty years. She had provided us with a babu (a maid who would wait upon us). We agreed to pay $6.50 per month. When the babu learned the wages we would pay she clapped her hands with delight. Out of her wages she fed herself. Every day she went to market and bought us Mangosteens and Rhambutans. At that date the fruit dealers had offered L30 to any captain of a ship who would take a basket of mangosleens to the Queen of Holland. When the hard purple fruit is cut open, a snow white center consisting of segments like an orange is found, and all agree that these inner fruits are the most deliciously delicate food morsels in the entire world. We voted the Rhambutan the second best. In after years I believe the Queen of Holland received in good condition the basket of Mangosleens for which some Captain of a ship received the L30 offered. We held many suffrage meetings in Java, but naturally they were conducted in Dutch, and therefore, the main speeches were made by Dr. Jacobs. I made little speeches usually interpreted. We met the wife of a naval Officer who had lived in many islands, Borneo, Celebees, Malacca, and even Guiana. The people sometimes were very primitive, and she was often afraid, especially of the Papuans. One day she was alone, and a large number of these Guiana or Papuan people - men, women, and children came to her hut and demanded to see her legs. The legs of all white people were always covered by clothing; those of the natives, never. She put them off successfully for a time, but was getting frightened. Fortunately her husband arrived. He told the visitors that white women never showed their legs, but he would show his, so he removed his pants. They quietly looked him over and went away. They only wanted to know whether the white folks were really white all over! 2. THREE DUTCH ISLANDS (continued) The Doctor added three hundred new members to the Dutch Suffrage Association at the meetings we held in the Dutch Indies. As the Doctor was writing weekly letters to Dutch papers, all the Dutch were anxious to show her all the wonders of their thousand islands called the Dutch Indies. On April 30th we went to see Lake Manindjoe and stayed over night at the Government's Pasanggrabau (rest house). We squeezed ourselves into a little bendee drawn by one horse about the size of a rat and another about the size of a mouse. The harness was primitive; the lines were rope, and our driver was a boy with whom we could not speak. When we went up hill we had to take strong hold of the front lest we spill over the back, and when we went down hill we had to hold tight to the back lest we find ourselves on top of the rat and the house which were called horses. We arrived lame and sore with black and blue spots, bumps, corns and bunyans all over us. We found the Pasanggrabau with a huge banana tree in front and fenced in by a hedge of blossoming roses. We had to sleep together again much as we dis- liked it, but the bed was eight feet wide and we made a bridge between us of the two leg pillows, never missing on a Dutch Indies bed. We visited schools, homes, pastors, and markets, and learned much concerning the people ruled by the Mothers. We took tea in several houses. One had seven women in it, the mother and six married daughters. When a husband visits a wife, he stays a week and sleeps with her, eats with her, but does not eat with other members of the family. We went back to Padang and there we had dinner parties and suffrage meetings, and a real party. The Dutch people who gave it lived in a large bungalow which stood in the middle of great grounds. Trees were hung with Chinese lanterns and the flower beds, orchid 3. THREE DUTCH ISLANDS (continued) house , etc. were lighted native fashion with temblers full of cocoanut oil on which floated a lighted bit of cotton. The place where the guests sat was pebbled, as too many live things abode in the grass. An entertainment was given. A ganelon band played, a Javenese dancing girl, a row of native young men posed, and marched. Two stepped forth and had a kicking match, and several games which indicated that they could do anything a boneless man might do. Meanwhile a dinner was served us- a dish of meat, potatoes, mushroons, and you g stems of a fern, a fruit punch, and a nice salad made of strange things. Just before eleven we finished with coffee ices and cakes. - Diary of Carrie Chapman-Catt - - Java - (PART X) - April 5th to July 1st, 1912 - JAVA The little "Van Noort" arrived off Singapore in the early evening of April 5th. We talked of going ashore and taking a drive, but the Doctor got an invitation from the Dutch Captain and another man to go with them and three Dutch ladies. I therefore withdrew so as to allow her to go. The port holes were all closed, partly because of the dust aroused by the cargo, partly to keep mosquitoes out, and partly because there were plenty of thieves who carry long sticks with hooks on the end, which they insert through the port holes and remove what they wish. On deck there were four cane-seated settees, each provided with a cushion and pillows. I ensconced myself on one and slept off and on until one o'clock. The Dr. and party got back about midnight, having seen nothing and having a horrid time. We did the best we could to sleep with our fan and arose early. W went ashore about 8:30 with the three Dutch ladies who had gone out the night before - one having lived in Singapore agreeing to act as guide. We went by train a long distance and then took rickshaws for the Botanical gardens, which proved a long way off. It was too hot to walk around and the boys were too winded to take us around, so we saw what we could. It is a beautiful garden, but not to be compared with that at Kandy. We returned by a different route and fell upon an interesting experience. Either a great Chinaman was being burned, or it was a day in which all Chinese honor their dead. We could not learn which. The -2- street was simply crowded with rickshas, and these were filled with Chinese; Husbands and wives with children, fathers with children, mothers with children, women together and men together, for these rickshas held two. Each one carried an offering. From most hung great strings of paperforms which I believe are prayers. These were folded into squares triangles, boats, etc. then there were baskets of fruits, vegetables, rice, prayer sticks, and I counted six roasted pigs. The imagination could not picture the variety of these offerings. We must have met or travelled in the procession with at least one thousand of these rickshas. We saw something of the native town, the best streets of the Europeans, and got back to the boat just in time - noon. (Postals 1,2,3,4) meanwhile, the Singapore passengers had come on, and the ship was crowded from stem to stern. That night, Friday, at about one o'clock, we crossed the Equator. It was a comfortable night and the whole journey was comfortable and uneventful. There was a fair breeze each day and on deck it was not very hot. We arrived off Batavia, or rather Tandjong Prick, the port of Batavia, about 7:30. The Dr. was ready at 6 and I at 7. but we did not come alongside the key (quay) until 8:30, Meanwhile a group of four ladies, three young girls and a nice man were watiing for us - poor things. There was no place for them to sit. The leader was the Doctor's sister who has been an apothecary here for thirty years. She is 65 years old, a handsome, well-preserved Jewess, and she was clad in a beautiful white gown which utterly outclassed anything we had. The Dr. was dressed in a white dress, somewhat mussed, somewhat soiled and considerably sloppy around the waist. I wore my grey linen, which was -3- not only mussed but decidedly soiled. We certainly looked the part of globe trotters. All the Dutch ladies wore fresh white dresses and looked very nice. The young girls presented us with bouquets of beautiful white flowers, the center being big chrysanthemums (April 7). there was a new law and it took time to inspect all the passengers. All who were not Dutch had to pay 25 guldons-$10.00, which they promise to return. Then there were customs, and we had to give assurances that we had no concealed weapon or opium. At last all was attended to and we found ourselves in a very nice carriage (car) bound for Batavia. We passed through a perfect jungle of cocoanuts and bananas, intersperced with strange trees and vines - a perfect luxury of vegetation. Arrived in Batavia, the Dr. and I went first to her sister's house, our luggage being cared for by the hotel runner. She lives in a big tropical house and the front is the Apothek. The back is an immense verandah shut in with slab curtains during the heat of the day and furnished like a drawing room as all these houses are. The floor was marble and it was very pretty. Marble steps led down to a back yard full of palms and trees, great bunches of beautiful white orchids fairly covering one. She treated us to an iced orangeade, and the two sisters talked while I went fast asleep in my chair. About noon we took a carriage and went to our Hotel Netherlands. It is built on the plan of modern insane asylums- many small houses near the central one which contains the dining room. We share a house or pavilion with a doctor. We have a sitting room and a very large bedroom, with a perfectly immense marble floored verandah provided with tables and chairs. We have five wardrobes, two desks, seven tables, etc. But we have -4- to go quite a distance into a back court to the W.C. and a quarter of a mile to the dining room. We get our breakfast in our room. It is a hot walk to lunch, but as dinner comes at 8 p.m. that walk is easily managed. The bed room is provided with two beds-a very big one and a single one. This time I have the big one. They are enclosed with mosquito netting, as all tropical beds are. There is an undersheet, over a hard but good mattress, two cotton pillows, (no other kind is used in the tropics) and a bolster, round and hard, about three or four feet long. We found these in the narrow berths of the steamer, and wherever the Dutch are we shall see them. They are used to put between the legs so that the perspiration will not stick them together. It is a Dutch habit, and now they cannot get on without them. There is no upper sheet or cover and usually no one requires them, but I sleep under my own sheet. I confess it gets kicked off several times. Each room is provided with a brush or broom. These are long grasses tied in a bunch and are the only brooms used in Africa, British India and here. We have a maid or a babu as they are called. She does our room work and waits on us. We pay her at the rate of $6.50 per month, and she feeds herself. The wages are so generous that she clapped her hands in delight when she learned what we would pay; The babu before she leaves at 6 p.m. takes this brush and threshes the mosquito nets, sweeps the bed and closes the curtains. When we are ready to retire, we go inside and hunt for only sly ones which may have hidden, first having swept ourselves, lest we take them inside. Thus do we sleep. We have thus far been kept supplied with beautiful fruit. -5- At 6 a.m. the boy brings coffee and puts it on our verandah table, but we do not take it, although the native Dutch do. We get up, bathe, I in a washbowl, the Dr. in the proper Dutch way. She puts a kimona over her nightgown, goes out into the court where there are bathrooms. Each is supplied with a stone tank like a square barrel and a small pail. The bather stands before it and pours water over himself. When partially dressed at 8 a.m., we breakfast in our sitting room. We are ready by 9 a.m. and usually go out returning about noon. The event of the day is lunch. Of all the culinary surprises I have met, this takes the lead. The Dutch found the natives living in a certain way and they adopted their plan, doubtless adding to it and modifying it greatly. The thing produced is called "The rice table." It is doubtless not so complicated in a private home. First a soup plate if brought, with a dinner plate on the side. Them comes and immense bowl of beautifully cooked white rice with a great ladle to take it out with. One takes what he likes; then[/]come seven boys who surround the table, one carrying a tray of nine dishes, each having a "curry" red hot. All the others have two dishes. There are certain things which seem to be permanent. There is a fried chicken and stewed chicken with a rice gravy, a sort of meat ball very delicious, and a big crisp wafer made chiefly of egg I should think. Then there are several meat dishes which I turn down. In addition we have had sweet potato and Irish potato in big thin slices, fried in cocoanut oil, fried egg plant, roasted bananas, corn fritters, deviled crabs, shrimp fried and in croquettes, and indeed I do not know what we have not had. The first day twenty-three things were offered. I took twelve. I tried to -6- cut off, and the second day I took eleven, today nine! All these things go into the soup plate until it overflows, when the when the dinner plate is filled. Over the whole mess a sort of curry gravy may be poured. Everything about it is very nice and the rice table is prepared by native cooks. Fruit follows and coffee. I have said all along that when I got to Java I should have some good coffee. They make it by hot or cold water percolation, and bring it to you in a small bottle, black as your shoe. This you put in your cup and fill it with hot milk. It is the only way it is served here. In the hotels it is horrid. In private houses it is good. After lunch we return to our room and gladly follow the fashion of the country and take off every dud. These are wet and must be strung over chairs to get a chance to dry. With nightgowns on we go to bed with books or papers, but usually sleep claims us about two hours. At four we take another bath, put on some undergarments - not those used in the morning, and take tea, which is brought to us. By five the natives drive or walk. The sun sets about six the year round, and it gets dark immediately after. There is one delightful hour. After six the mosquitoes begin to come on duty and if the lights are lit, a perfect entomological congress assembles. At eight we dine and as soon as possible after we are in bed. This is the program of the women of the country, and we have followed it too. Yet, we arrived Sunday (Easter) and took a drive that evening. Monday (bank holiday) we went to the Museum all the morning and went to call on the Doctor's sister in the vor evening. On Tuesday a nice lady came with her automobile which she chauffeurs herseld and took us about to do some necessary errands. We have -7- to get passports to travel in Java, and I exchanged my receipt for 35 G. for a passport. (I haven't got it yet) Then we had to call on the Resident and Assistant Resident (the Dutch head of Government here), and I called on the American Consul who has been here 17 years. Then we went to a dressmaker, where each of us will have another tropical dress made. That evening there was a tea at 5:30 for us and a fine nice assembly. We had to melt ourselves in our good clothes and sweat. I wore my black satin. We made speeches of course. Wednesday, we had a public meeting in the theatre. There was a good audience and the meeting opened at 9:20. We got home at midnight. The Dr., who had to make the chief speech, had had the symptoms of malarial fever, nervous prostration and fits for two days. and at last told me she really believed she was going to be sick. But when she was delivered of the speech, all the symptoms disappeared! The meeting was a good one I believe - the audience looked well, was large and appeared sympathic anyway. It was difficult to think that we were down on the Equator, but when we went home, we got out of our wet clothes, turned them wrong side out and festooned them on chairs to dry, and in our nighties indulged in after suffrage meeting revel, unlike any other. We first ate a delicious papya or pawpaw, then we each ate a few mangosteens and a few Rhambutans! The mangosteen is the fruit which the fruit growers have offered L30 to any steamboat captain who will take a basket to the Queen of Holland. They are round, very dark purple and hard. The end is cut off and reveals a brilliant red cup containing a snowwhite center, consisting of -8- little segments like and orange. Two large ones contain seeds. These are removed with a spoon and are the most delicious delicate morsel a queen could wish to taste. The Rhambutans are brittler - a deep red egg shaped fruit covered with little bumps. A bunch of them would make a nice corsage bouquet. They are broken open easily and the center is/a translucent, colorless pulp surrounding a seed. We think them nearly as delicious as the mangosteens. Today, we went for fittings of our dresses this morning, and the Dr. now gone to a meeting of the members. To-morrow there is to be another public meeting, and on Saturday a dinner. After this we shall be free to do as we please. Friday evening (April 12) went off well. It was announced that questions would be answered. Several were sent in. I answered a few and then the Dr. began, and there was much discussion, all in Dutch. The meeting seemed a good one, but naturally it bored me. When it was over the Dr. went with some of the ladies and gentlemen to an outdoor restaurant, but I went home as I could understand nothing. Saturday we went out for errands, and in the evening went to dinner. It was held in a large hall with all of one side open, which made it fairly cool. There were 26 persons, and of course speeches. On Sunday we staid at home in the morning for the first time, and tried to write letters. In the afternoon went to bed and in the evening took a drive. On Monday we began overhauling our trunks and repacking them. This we did little by little, always in our nightgowns, and although we worked slowly, I always had to change my gown before going to bed. -9- One day we went to see the pawnshops. The natives had the pawning habit and the Chinese had the business. The natives were misused and cheated constantly, so the government took it up. It opened one, than two, etc. and now has 254 in Java. The director of the whole thing, Mr.Nettle, is a splendid young man, and a suffragist. He showed it to us. Many days as many as 1000 persons come to shop to pawn or take out pawns. It is very carefully systematized and watched. The pawns are usually very small values. The store house was a sight. There must have been a thousand belt buckles, many hundreds of sarongs-the cloth girded about the loins as a skirt and worn by both men and women- there was jewelry, sewing machines, music boxes, etc. The number of possessions of the native is limited. The rate is 18%, which is the rate the Chinese used. This will be lowered when the enterprise pays. Half a million gulden pass annually through the receipts of some of the shops. When things are left too long, they are sold at auction and these are held regularly. All over the amount advanced on the article is given back to the owner. We went to such an auction. The buyers were all Chinese and the natives stood around in awed silence. There was native jewelry mostly this morning. The Chinese are here making fortunes from the less pushing and less saving native. They are doing exactly what the Jew did. Despised of men he made himself rich and made his critics bow before him. It was all very interesting and the natives are no longer cheated, but I question if the safety and convenience of the plan has not stimulated the pawning habit. Another day we went to see the "opium fabrick" as the Dutch -10- government has taken up the manufacture of opium to get it away from the Chinese. They forbid the raising of poppies, buy their raw opium from British India, and manufacture a pure "dope". They turn out every day enough for more than a million pipes. The government sells it also and allows no one else to do so. A private person may buy and smoke all he wishes. They profess to watch the joints or kits. They say pure opium does no harm, which is not true! We saw the process from the crude to the perfected product, the making of the tin (mixed with copper, as opium eats through the tin) tubes and the filling of them, the making of wood boxes and the filling of them. It was interesting, but what an unspeakable tragedy. There were hundreds of boys (they say all over twelve, but they did not look it) who ought to be in school, making opium to corrupt one million of people daily. The Dutch are full of explanations and excuses for this manufacture of 11 years, but admit that the government now needs the 17,000 gulden it brings in every year! We went to B[en]uitenzorg one day- Mr. & Mrs. Wavers-Billing, taking us in the motor. We lunched with Mr. & Mrs. Laberton- family Motman, the leaders of Theosophy in Java, He is a charming and wise little man, and his wife a half caste. A sister of the wife has a business. She produces the old arts and sells them. She has a woman weaving and painting batek, etc. She demonstrated a most interesting thing. She had taken old patterns from all the islands of the East Indies and from D[i]jaks of Borneo and Papuanos of Guana, both very low tribes, comes very complicated geometrical patterns. What does it mean? The meeting was a good one and the audience sympathetic, but a bore to me as it was too Dutch. Of course I spoke a little and -11- understood what I said, but nothing more. Another morning we went to see the Pasteur Institute, which is doing excellent work. They make vaccine and instruct natives how to vaccinate. They have over 600 such official vaccinators, and by a very careful organization keep the children of the 32 millions of Java cared for. They have thus kept smallpox under good control. They also make a cholera serum and use it when cholera is epidemic. A plague serum has been used but with small effect. They make an antidote for dysentery and typhoid also, and of course for rabies. Dogs go mad in this climate very often. I think it would be cheaper and more reasonable to forbid the keeping of dogs! We had some pleasant evening drives in Batavia which was the only cool experience we had. I managed to write a few private letters and a few/official ones, but it was difficult. If I had no sleeve on my arm stuck to the marble table and to the paper. If I had a sleeve, it stuck, to my arm and I had to stop and fan the sweat off my hand every now and then. (Postals Batavia No. 5). On the morning of the 22nd of April, Monday, we went to Tandjong Prick again and boarded the Bantam, a well named little ship. (Bantam is the name of an Island and the bantam chickens come from there, but were not originally native) We knew the boat would not be a good one, and we had also been told dreadful tales of the passage which is supposed to exceed all others in roughness and many times no passengers can go to the table. We therefore had not anticipated our three days journey. The Bantam is very old-fashioned with no fans or tin ventilators, but I passed a pleasent day. We sailed at about 1 p.m. We had Photo Page 1 Between 1875 and 1887 - 15 years - I attended high school four years, college four years, taught school three years, married and after one year buried my husband who died of typhoid fever. I experimented with newspaper work for two years. In 1887 I attended the Iowa State Suffrage Association and was elected State Secretary. I went home determined to work as best I could to win the vote [*????*]. Twenty-three years later, all devoted to suffrage work, I had an operation and my doctor said that I must spend one entire year in absolute rest in order to restore my health. I thought a long time over a possible plan of spending a year in rest. I then told my doctor that I had decided to take a trip around the world but there were three things I had to do before I could start. I was president of the International Women's Suffrage Alliance. A congress was due soon in Stockholm, and it was my duty to prepare theprogram and do the corespondence with our auxiliaries. I must preside over the congress and make a speech on the subject: "Is Women's Suffrage Progressing? If So, How Fast:. When the congress should be over, the minutes and records had to be prepared and printed. My doctor, hearing about these three tasks, said solemnly -- "Then, you must rest two years, instead of one." -12- a good lunch and I took a nap on a settee on deck and then read my guide book about Sumatra and Java. Meanwhile the prospect on all sides was exceedingly interesting. We passed in and out among small Islands covered with vivid green vegetation and thickly covered with coco palms. The sea was placid as a sea could be. Just at sunset we passed Krakatan for which I had been looking all day. This was an island mountain, uninhabited but covered with vegetation. It stands in the midst of other islands and is within easy sight of Java on one side and Sumatra on the other. In the eighties(?) the mountain which had been a volcano 200 years ago began to emit smoke and boats used to take excursions around into the Sundy Strait to see it. It began in April, and in August the explosion came which has been expected. Scientists had claimed that a mountain could blow itself to pieces, but there had been no proof of it known to man. But Krakatan blew its peak off, destroyed all vegetation and life within miles, sprinkled ashes over a distance as far as from London to Constantinople, and particles of lava remained in the air. for some two years afterwards, producing sunsets the whole world over of wonderful brilliancy. A giant tidal wave followed the eruption which washed 32,000 people from Western Java into the sea. A ship was lifted right over the sea wall and deposited in a Chinese market. It stands as the most powerful eruption known to man. It was with deep interest that my eyes wandered from the beautiful jagged, but tree covered mountains of Java lying upon our left to the islands some flat, some mountainous, all cocoanut covered with Krakatan in the midst. -13- It is still quite a mountain rising right out of the sea. It look like this: [*pencil sketch of mountain*] The flat top is where the peak was. A little point remains. It is now again covered with vegetation, but the seeds have been brought by the birds and by the waves of the sea. It was the hazy time at sunset that we saw it, so it looked like a grey ghost in the distance, and no green could be seen. We were treated to a wonderful tropical sunset, with colors not seen in the north. Imagine a sea green stretch of water, a red ball of fire in the Western sky, a mass of cumulus clouds in the East, a rose pink, another mass in the south, the most dainty baby blue, a vivid sea green sky back of the sun partly covered by long clouds of crimson, which threw a plum colored haze over the mountains nearest, while Krakatan remained the grey ghost of bygone fury through it all. It was a scene never to be forgotten. The colors changed rapidly, until a slate colored sea and a grey sky dotted with stars and a young crescent moon under a haze announced that night was come. Just at that moment we anchored so far from land that we could not see the small port, but six boats full of natives came out of the mysterious twilight into the light of our ship, and one by one in perfect silence, not a word or laugh or a groan, crept up the outside to our deck. We were interested in the luggage. A number carried bamboo poles over their shoulders and had innumerable bundles done up in matting tied on each end. These natives were crowded so close together on the open deck that I do not think they -14- could lie down. All brought a strip of matting to lie on, for here too men pick up their beds and walk. There were many lit- tle brown babies. We have seen babies carried in all imaginable ways. Here in Java and Sumatra, they are worn in a slangdong. Every man and woman has a long piece of cloth which may be cheap or expensive. It is a wrap or a tool as the case may be. This slangdong is tied over the shoulder and the baby sits in it as in a hammock. The mother or nurse has her two hands free then. I have seen women sweeping and doing all sorts of things while carrying their babies. After dinner, I read and walked a little and went to bed, and I must say I spent a good night even through we had to room together and there was no place to put a single article except back into our grips. This morning, Tuesday, April 23rd, we were due to stop at a small port of Sumartra, and the Captain said we could go ashore. So we were dressed at 6 a.m., had a cup of coffee and a bit of bread and got into a little naptha launch and went toward the shore, which was a long way off. A little row boat took us from the launch and carried us ashore. We had to jump out when the tide was out, and the Doctor failed to jump in at the right time when we returned and got both feet wet. A row of low mountains seem near the shore and behind them are pepper plantations. We are leaving all kinds of domestic produce and taking on cases of pepper. Between the mountains and the shore is a perfect jungle of cocoanuts, bananas, etc. Some hundreds of people were on the shore, for there is a passor or bazar, and there are also any number of little restaurants. These people do not eat at home. When they are hungry, they go to a little place like this and buy something. Women are setting cross- -15- legged on the ground and cooking where their customers could see. They had little fires of sticks and flat large pots were placed thereon. In boiling cocoanut oil, they cooked bananas. We have these at the rice table and they are very nice, but the banana used is one I have never seen before, and I do not like it to eat uncooked. Other women were dipping split bananas in a batter and cooking them in the same way. They were also frying sliced jack fruit. Other women had round rice cakes sprinkled with fresh cocoanut. There was dried fish and all sorts. Some customers came and sat down before the pot and when the thing they wanted was done, they received it in a banana leaf, paid a copper for it and went away. Others had a table with a bamboo seat and a little cover over it. Here men were eating rice with a kind of raw bean. They wrapped the rice around the bean and tucked it into their mouths. Of course they eat with their fingers. When we had grown tired of this sight we walked along a well made road bordered by a jungle of cocoa- nuts which met overhead. Space was cut away here and there for thatched-roofed, basket sided huts raised on poles. In some small creeks women were pounding clothes on stone, but most of the inhabitants were at the shore. We passed one of the official sale places of the government opiums. At the end of the road we could see a white house, and we walked on. All such districts have a Controleur and this one was the only white man in a large territory. The house proved to be the house of the Controleur and he was at home because he had been crossing a marsh and the leeches got at his feet. They are a serious enemy -16- in such places, for the victim does not feel them. In a little while the blood is flowing fast, and in this instance the wounds became infected before he could get home to attend to them. We found him a nice intelligent young man. He was fretting over his accident, because he was obliged to take a long journey through the jungle. There have been earthquakes and some old houses have fallen down, and a volaco is groaning. The natives are alarmed and he must go to investigate - naturally he himself was a bit nervous and indeed he might well be with Krakatan in the neighborhood. He told us about the natives - the Lampongs. There are many people, Japanese, Chinese, Malay, etc. who work on the plantations, but the Lampongs belong here. They say they came from the Menangkabos, the Matriarchate tribe at Padang. From what he told us it would seem that these people are an in- teresting connecting link. When there is one daughter only, the son-in-law must go to live in the wife's home and becomes a virtual slave of her father. Whatever he tells him to do he must do. If there are two daughters and one is much younger than the other, the son-in-law comes to live with the wife until the younger one brings another son into the house, then the other one may go where he likes. If there is one son only, then the wife must go into his family and he pays the father for the wife. In the first case the children belong to the wife's family, in the other to the husband's family. Thus, the matriarchate custom of taking the sons in exists side by side with the partriarchate one of buying wives. When the number of children is limited, as an only son marrying an only daughter, the children are divided between the two families in order that neither will die out. Sometimes would be husbands pay as much -17- as $800. for a wife - this is among the nobility. Recently there was a sort of strike among the girls. They refused to marry unless the husband would come to live in their house. When the girl goes into her husband's house, she is virtually the slave of her mother-in-law, but the motives which led to rebellion were not altogether those which preferred to make a slave of the husband instead of being one themselves. As so much money was paid for wives it meant that old men alone could buy and as polygamy exists, they did not like the position given them. They preferred young husbands. So serious had this matter become that a meeting of the chiefs of the tribe had been called to see what could be done about it, and as yet the problem is unsolved. When the eldest son marries the father must give the best part of the house to him, and some times he is obliged to take his own wives on the roof in order to give his son the house. After a pleasant call, we returned as we had gone by row boat and launch to the ship. Meanwhile the sun was attending to its tropical business. It was now nine o'clock and the wood rail of the gangway was hot enough to blister the hand. We had another breakfast and I came on deck to write. A cool and lively breeze sprung up which had dried my outer garments and left me comfortable. At half past eleven we are still loading pepper. Two men with a bamboo pole over each shoulder wade out into the water to the small boats which have been loaded from the ship or are being loaded for the ship., and on this bridge between them the loaders place a box and thus the ship secures and discharges its cargo. Before leaving Java we had a good many callers to say -18- good-bye. One was Mrs. Ekima whose husband is a naval officer. She has lived all over the Archipelago, (half caste herself) in Celebes, Borneo, Malucca, etc. Once she was in Guiana, and there she was afraid, for her husband was away much of the time. She had Javanese servants. The Papuans here are not of very high order. One day they came in very large numbers and demanded to see her legs. She put them off and her husband arrived. He told them that white women did not show their legs, but he would show his, so he took off his shirt and pulled up his pants. They only wanted to see whether they were white all over! They bought much of their food from the natives, paying with barter. The favorite money demanded was the tin bands or stripes which came around boxes. Later they saw a hammer, and wanted a hammer for every article they brought. Later still they found that the small plaited palm mats which the natives of other countries use to sleep on, but which were unknown among the Papuans, were very nice beds. These mats were made by those who use them and have no value, but they offered 1000 cocoanuts for one mat, and they thought they should get an iron hammer for a bunch of bananas worth a quarter of a cent. It was an interesting study in values. They tell us we may have a rough sea from now on to our next port. We shall see. Thursday, April 24th. Tuesday evening only one third of the passengers got down to dinner. One big six-footer sneaked away from the table when about half through, and the Dr. said he cast what he had overboard at once. She was lying on a settee on deck and she knew. Wednesday the knocked out ones did not -19- appear on deck till about 5 p.m. They said the sea was rough, but to an old salt like me, it was nothing. I had never a qualm. I am quite swelled up with self satisfaction. At six we anchored off Bencoelen, and the sea was so rough the Captain would not let the passengers ashore. There had been a rain and we had our canvas closely drawn. About eight it seemed calm enough, although the harbor there is a terror. They sent off the 3rd class and some cargo and we lay there over night. This morning at daylight they finished unloading, and at 8:30 we were off. The sea is blue and there are no white caps. Upon our right all the way is the cocoanut bedecked shore of Sumatra, with the blue mountains behind, all wearing white crowns of cumulus clouds. At our left is the limitless stretch of the Indian Ocean. I spent my day yesterday reading American magazines which Mollie sent to Batavia. To-day must be devoted to my guide book. Saturday, April 27. We arrived early Friday morning without event except that we passed up into an estuary which took us away from the sea breeze and gave us a hot night. Three ladies met us and went to Padang by motor. It was a charming drive, over good roads and under the shade of palm trees. We arrived at the home of Mr. and Mrs. Kamerling, where we had breakfast. Then the Dr. and I went downtown to arrange our passage back to Batavia. The Dr. staid at the Kamerlings, and I at Mr. and Mrs. DeKeth who lived next door. They all took an elaborate lunch at my house, and at 7 there was an At Home at the Kamerlings. It was her 72nd birthday, and there were many callers. She had had a perfect deluge of flowers all day and the great verandah looked like a garden. There were orchids without number and -20- many strange flowers. At 9 we had an elaborate dinner and we got to bed about midnight. This morning we were up early and took our train to Padang Pandjang, where we now are. Part of the distance was made by cogwheel, but we are still not very high. We are in a queer but clean little hotel. For the first time in our travels we must occupy the same bed, but the bed is at least 8 ft. wide. It is cooler here. Padang was unutterably sticky and steamy. The houses there are different from any we have seen with thatched roofs. They are very nice inside. The country is wonderfully beautiful and covered with a perfect jungle of cocoanuts, bananas, bamboo, etc. intersected by good roads and with little thatched basket houses peeping out through the openings between the trees. But hot! We had a big thunderstorm every night on the boat about sunset, and there was one last night in Padang, and one to-night here. We went to call at the Assistant Resident's and were there through the shower. We shall have our meeting in Padang upon our return. We arose at 5 A.M. and were on the train to Paja Kumboe at 6:45 on Sunday morning. The engine was behind and pushed our train up a cogwheel track for some distance, as it had through the mountain pass coming up to Padang Pandjang, and we sat on the front platform. We arrived at 9:30 and the clerk of the Asst. Resident came to meet us. We found a little box of a hotel kept by a half caste woman. The Resident himself was called away. The clerk said the best time to see the Passar (a market which takes place every Sunday) was in the afternoon. So we rested, took naps and I read my guide book. Rice table -21- was served at one o'clock and was the hottest one I've had yet. Then the man came for us and we walked slowly as it was very hot the little distance to the place. All day, even while we were on the train, we had seen the people coming with bundles and baskets on their heads and with bullock carts and bendys (the small carriage used here). A place as large as a large city block - perhaps larger, had a shed with open front on three sides which was divided off into small compartments, which were occupied by small shops. Narrow paths were made through the center and between them small covered temporary booths were erected of plaited palm leaf, or the merchants were sat on the ground, spreading their plaited mats around them and arranging their goods on them. Here the people come from great distances to sell and to buy. These are the Menangkabos, a matriarchate tribe, and it was to see them that I came to Sumatra. As I am going to write about them for Jus, I'll not do much of it here. In the covered shops for which rent was probably paid, the sellers were apparently travelling merchants who go from passar to passar and carry European goods - all sorts of household things and small cheap articles. Most of the merchants in the center were women. They had all sorts of fruit and vegetables, always including bright small red peppers, each woman carrying but a few articles. There were rows of shops with things to eat, cakes, wafers, fried bananas (in batter), sweets of many varieties, etc., coffee leaves in quantity; brooms which were made and sold by men, tobacco shops by men; many shops where a great variety of dried fish was sold - (how it smelled!) and fresh meat were kept by men. Several jewelry places had men -22- sellers, and there were some where women's weaving were sold and were kept by women. Some men were sewing on machines and making garments for children, and some men had a restaurant and were serving visitors and washing dishes. Things seemed to be rather confused concerning the spheres of the sexes. A most curious custom exists here. The men carry a small bird cage containing a bird. The women are nearly always loaded with baskets full of their daily needs, but men rarely carry anything. A strong man carrying a tiny bird cage, trudging along beside women with great baskets on their heads, is the most inane thing I every saw! After we had visited the passar we went out into a quiet street behind it and although the women were sticking industriously to their posts, there were at least 50, perhaps a hundred men sitting on the grass under the shade of trees in groups, and each had his bird with him. Some had hung them in the tree and one had his on his finger. Later when the passar closed, we saw hundreds of women marching home with their baskets on their heads, and hundreds of men carrying their little bird cages. We are trying to learn why the men do this, but no one knows. It is merely a custom. This morning, Monday, April 29th, we breakfasted at 7 a.m. and we were in a bendy at 7:30. These bendys are indescribably uncomfortable. They are a two wheeled vehicle, and contain a small seat across the front for the driver and two side seats behind. These are so narrow and small as to fail utterly to give space to such big folks as we are. We went to the Gap of Haran, a pass through the mountain. It is a mere split in the mountains, leaving clear cut straight walls, which are very high. There is a good echo between the walls and a -23- pretty river runs through the canon. There were rice fields where women were gathering the rice, all along the way Big groves of coco palms and bananas were scattered along the road, and a small kampong or family group of houses is always half hidden away under their shelter. The houses here are the most picturesque primitive houses I have ever seen. Upon our return, the Dr. went to the Resident to make an appointment. She soon returned in a bendy and another bendy followed with two men. I joined her and we were taken to make a call at a native house. This was a rare privilege. We found the house as picturesque inside as outside. The man whose relation to the house was that of son-in-law, was the official vacinator, the second man was the interpreter. He spoke Dutch. They asked us to have a drink of coffee leaves, and they brought many thing to eat which proved embarrassing. The brew of coffee leaves was not bad but did not taste of coffee. Tuesday, April 30. We arose early and came to Ft. DeKoch, arriving about 9. This was the birthday of the little Princess Juliana and was a holiday, so schools were closed and every other thing too. We proposed therefore, if possible, to go to Lake Manindjoe where there was nothing but scenery to see. We went first to the Resident from whom we had to receive permission to stop over night at the Government's Pasanggrahau, or rest house at Mateor. We got it, and some advice as to what to do. We took rice table at a hotel, packed over our limited baggage so as to take only one small piece with us. We left at 2 p.m. and were told it was 13 miles and that 2 1/2 hours would -24- bring us to Mateor. We squeezed ourselves into the little bendie drawn by a horse about the size of a rat and another about like a mouse pulling on the outside. The harness was primitive, the lines wire rope, our driver a boy with whom we could not speak. When we went uphill we had to crowd ourselves into the front, and when we went down hill we had to crowd the other way. As we filled the thing to overflowing anyway, it was difficult to move. It rained the whole distance so we could not walk. We passed, however, through beautiful mountain scenery and after four hours, covered with black and blue spots, bumps and with corns on our sitting down places, we arrived. We found the Pasanggrabau located in a charming spot with a big Banyan tree in front, hedges of roses in blossom, big beds of flowers all well kept, and looking very homey. It rained so we could not walk. I read till 8:30 when they gave us dinner. We got to bed immediately and again had to sleep together, but as the bed was 8 ft. wide, it was not so bad as it might have been. We made a bridge between us of the two "Dutch wives" as the leg pillows are called, so we would not quarrel. The beds here in Sumatra have hard mattresses over wood slats - no springs, and are not so very comfortable. We were up and breakfasted by 8 o'clock. They have no bread at this place, so we had a sort of breakfast rice table. The Controleur happened to be there and he helped the Doctor to see the sights. The Headman of the village went with us, and we journeyed some three miles in our little bendie to the top of a high hill, where an observatory had been erected. Here people go to see Lake Manindjoe instead of climbing down the steep, somewhat dangerous path. This lake occupies a crater, The -25- crater walls, [x] now overground with vegetation and looking like mountains, rise from 800 to 4000 feet around it. The wall was blown away on one side and a valley created which is now richly cultivated by rice fields and coffee trees. We stood on a hill which was part of the crater remaining. I never saw a prettier sight. (Central Park couldn't compare.) [out] The Lake was a deep sulphurous blue - Far beyond through a kloof the sea at Padang could be seen. (I was inspired and wanted to stay a week.) [out] We were now at an elevation about 3000 ft. or more and the air was cool and stimulating. When we turned our backs to this surpassingly beautiful Lake and faced the other way, a giant mountain now clear of clouds, [but] and the same dense blue as the Lake, rose before us. This was Mt. Merapi, a volcano which is eternally smoking. It was the first active one I every saw. Not far from it rose another mountain, Mt. Singalang, an inactive volcano. Between the peaks of these two, a pretty little sugarloaf mountain could be seen. The natives say these two volcanoes fell in love with the little one and tried to win her. It was decided to leave the matter to a contest of strength. So both volcanoes burst forth in a violent explosion, but that of Merapi was the biggest, the loudest and longest, and so he won. Ever since Singalang has been silent, a volcano which died of a broken heart, and Merapi has "smoked his pipe" ever since in token of his domestic happiness. Sometimes he is silent for some weeks and then the people are a bit anxious. He was silent when we came up to the Bovenland, but as he wore a big cap of white clouds on his head, we could see nothing. The night we were at PajaKumboe he exploded with a big crash, and -26- ashes flew all over the country, but we were both sleeping tight and never heard it! (When we arrived [*?*] at Ft. DeKoch) [my]My helmet was covered in with ashes which his majesty had strewn over it, and [*but*] I was unaware of the honor paid me, until we were told by the people here about the eruption. So when at last Merapi took off his ca[*o*]p of clouds, we saw the smoking crater. * On our way to this lookout, the village chief took us to see his own house, or rather his wife's house, since the land is owned by the women and a town hall where they hold their bali bali or town council. We went into the house and saw the women. It was very nice, but not so fine as the one we saw at Paja Kumboe. There were some real beds, rugs, matting on floor, lace curtains, pictures, dishes, table and chairs. This house had two kerbaus in addition to the main one. That is, every house has a curved roof like this [*pencil sketch of roof*] When a daughter marries a wing is added with a roof like this. This roof shows four daughters married. A Kerbau is a buffalo, and the curved roof is the symbol of his horn. Once these people had a terrible war and many were killed, yet they could not come to an end with it, so it was decided to leave it to a contest of two bullocks. The animal representing these people won. Menang means victory, Kerbau bullock= Menangkerbau= victory of the bullock. So they won their independence, and made the roofs of their houses the shape of the bullock's horn. -27- On our return we stopped at a sugar mill. Here a bullock driven by a young girl was traveling in a circle and pulling a crude frame which turned two wooden posts so close together that when a stalk of sugar cane was thrust between the juice was extracted. A woman sitting on the ground few the machine with the cane, and when the small pail which caught the juice had enough, she dipped some of it into a long bamboo. When this was filled she carried it into an open shed, where another woman sitting on the ground kept a fire going beneath a broad open pit, with the squeezed cane stalks. The juice boiled in the pot and later the crude sugar would be moulded into cakes and sold in the passar (market). This is woman's work entirely. Next we went to a school - 30 years old. We approached it between hedges of blossoming hibiscus, and the whole fruit yard except, this road of approach was filled with blossoming roses. Here were found 280 boys and girls. They were readin in Malay and doing mathematics, etc. and appeared to be as far along as white children of the same age. They told us that nearly all the males of the vicinity could read and write. The women have been too busy taking care of the tribe to go to school, but now the girls go more and more. We took rice table and left at once. There is a great canon between split rocks whose straight perpendicular walls rise some hundreds of feet on both sides, called Karbourngat. A rocky stream flows through it and we went that way returning. When we were at least five or six miles from Ft. de Koch we began meeting a perfect stream of women, each with a big basket on her head. They carried in this the goods they had go at the weekly passar in Ft. deKoch. This stream of people continued -28- all the way to town. We forded two streams and descended a very long steep hill which we had to walk. Across these streams and up this terrible hill the women had to climb with their weekly shopping. Dressed as they were in gay colors and barefooted they made a pretty picture. When at last we got to town we went at once to the passar to take a look. Meanwhile, I had bought some brass and now got a nice basket at the passar for 10 cents to put it in. By this time we were pretty tired and got to bed as soon as we could get our dinner. This morning we went to a beautiful school where native teachers are trained by Dutch men teachers. We learned a good deal there. They have 120 pupils and only three girls. These are the daughters of favored persons. The boys get a nice room, furnished with bed, table, clothespress and chair. They have added matting for the floor, mosquito netting for the bed, covers for the table, pictures for the walls, etc. They are very pretty rooms and the boys come from all over Sumatra, all tribes being represented. They get their board too, and 10 gulden per month for extra expenses, such as books, papers, etc. No girl can get anything, and last year six girls wanted to come and pay their own way but they would not let them in, on the excuse that there was not room! We have now had our lunch and in a little time we shall return to Padang Pandjang, where we shall stop for two days. I am finding these people so very interesting that I want to buy everything they have, but I am leaving a little behind me. I should not fail to record that in the native school one of the girl pupils was teaching an infant class by [the] way of her training, and the Head Master said she was brighter, more intelligent and adaptable than any by in the school! -29- Friday, May 3rd. We arrived at the station yesterday at 4:30 to find the train we expected to take had been taken off, so we had to wait an hour. We employed our time in pacing the platform under the shed as it was raining by spells outside, and discussing the Menangkabaus as we got such conflicting testimony. We arrived at 7 p.m., Padaul Paudyang coming up to Hotel Merapi in a bendie which for comfort, is a combination between a camel and an elephant! The Assistant Resident came at once to call on the Doctor and they planned some sightseeing for us. Then came dinner at 8:30 and a sound sleep on a very hard bved. I found it easy to get up at six, but puttered about and got breakfast at 8. Then we walked to the house of the Resident where his wife and his sister-in-law joined us (Mistresses VanToeberg) and we went first to another native house - a beauty. Every inch of the outside was carved and the relief carving tinted in white and gold, the background red. The roof was thatched with the ridge pole and corners ornamented in silver. There were seven women in the house. When a husband goes to visit his wife, he stays a week and sleeps with her and eats with her, but he does not eat with the other members of the family. He stays a week with each wife, and has four if he is rich. Then we went to the passar, which makes the third we have seen. So we have a good idea of them. We stopped in a sort of factory where coffee and cinnamon is bought and prepared for market. In one room young women seated on the floor were picking out the bad kernels and throwing them in baskets. There I learned that the coffee is male and female. The female kernels are the flat ones which look like the half of a whole, the male are rather abnormal looking and are nearly round - that is a rather abnormal -30- whole. They say the male kernels make the finest flavored drink. My goodness, we women's righters will never get through. We must now stir up these female coffees to get a flavor equal to the males!! We are here in the center of both coffee and cinnamon plantations. I judge this cinnamon is not the finest quality. It is sorted in lengths two feet long and tied in big bunches about two feet in diameter. The workers walk all over it with their bare feet, and no wrapping is put around the big bundles before it is carried in a dirty bullock cart through the town to the warehouse, where it is boxed for shipment. (One more thing to wash) We walked back rather tired and sweaty, although the day is cool. After rice table we took a nap and then went to a lace school where a sweet pretty native girl of 15 is teaching 45 little girls to make bobbin lace. They sat on the floor before their little tables of work and it was a pleasant sight but rather silly to teach them to make hand lace which is made as well by machine. (When we were at Matoer, the village chief showed us something else I have forgotten to mention. It was a great circle of 120 stones set upright. They are of all sizes and the largest was perhaps 8 ft. high by 4 ft. wide. They are rough stones with uneven edges. Once in three months the Chief calls the headman of the villages to council and each man sits before his own stone. The big chief sits before the great stone and every man has a stone in proportion to his importance.) There is a Governor General for the whole Dutch Indies which are said to include 1000 islands. This official is a direct representative of the Holland government and possesses royal power. -31- He lives in Buitinzorg, and we called upon him. The islands are then divided into residencies of which there are 34 in the whole, 3 in Sumatra, 17 in Java and Moedura, the others in other parts. Each residence has a regent, a native chief who in the eyes of the natives rules them, but he is absolutely under the control of the Dutch. A Dutch Resident is the real ruler, but this was a clever way to keep the native rulers from rebellion. Under the Dutch Resident are Assistant Residents each with a district to preside over, and there is a sub Regent also. It will be seen that there is a duplicate system of officials, with the exception of the Governor General. The Assistant Residents in turn have several districts under them who are in charge of controlleurs and a native chief is his duplicate. Each controlleur has several villages in charge, and each village has a headman such as escorted us about Mateor, and the chief corresponding to the controlleur of that district presides over the 120 stones with the little headmen sitting in front of it. The controlleurs collect the taxes and pass the money on to the resident. From the amount collected, which I believe is collected in Batavia, the salaries and expenses are borne and the rest goes to Holland. At times the islands have brought great wealth to the Dutch government, but of late they have not paid their way. On the one hand there has been war with the Achinese to the north of Sumatra, and on the other is the big outgo for schools. The wife of the Asst. Resident told us that 17 hears ago when they first came here, the wooden shutters had to be closed at 6 p.m. because the tigers had a habit of paying visits at night. That may be the reason why the servants come around and shut everything up now. I think the Dutch sleep without air, but I open up everything and -32- say that if my fate is to be eaten by tigers or burgled, let it come - air I will have. There have been so many burglaries that we have found everyone in Sumatra and Java terrified. Their houses are on the ground and with open windows they have no protection, but how can they live in the tropics with closed shutters to keep men out and under muslin curtains to keep the mosquitoes out! Saturday, May 4th. This morning we went with the two Mrs. Van Toebergs in bendies toward the pass in the mountains through which the railroad enters the highland. The wagon road goes a different route. At the beginning of the kloof we got out and the mice which drew us returned with their drivers, and we walked about an hour, all the time downhill to a little station. It was pretty hot, and there was no place to sit down for rest, but the scenery is charming and three kinds of monkeys ought to have been plentiful, but the naughty things hid themselves One is a big brown one with a short tail resembling somewhat a baboon, but his color is cinnamon brown. These are vicious when old and resent the white man's encroachments. They are caught, however, and made to work for their masters. They are taught to climb the very tall coco trees and to bring down the ripe nuts. They can be taught to distinguish between ripe and green ones, but sometimes they go on a strike and won't do it. Just as we reached the station the daily thunderstorm broke and the rain poured in torrents. It was all over in half an hour and we returned by train in time for the rice table. We did nothing the rest of the day but take a walk in the evening. On Sunday we wrote and read and packed and went to the Asst. Resident Von Toeberg for dinner. -33- Monday May 6th. We went back tp Padang (from Padang Pandjang) arriving at noon. Mr. DeKeth my host was there to meet us. In the vor abend or "before dinner evening" we had a suffrage meeting. They got a lot of names including that of the Governor and his wife. We had dinner at 9:30 at my house. Here they are also terrified over burglars and I dared not refuse to close my shutters when asked, since [of] if a man came into my room he was at liberty to go all through the house. My, but it was hot!!! This was Monday night and we had to stay until Thursday. For some reason they would have the meeting on Monday. Tuesday morning the doctor and I went in Mr. Kammerling's carriage to do some errands, and in the evening there was a dinner party at my house. In the afternoon every one goes to bed and sleeps if possible. Wednesday, there was a garden party at Mr. & Mrs. Schlichter's which was great. Their big bungalow stands in the middle of big grounds. The trees were hung with Chinese lanterns and the flower beds, orchid house, etc. were lighted native fashion with tumblers full of cocoanut oil on which floated a lighted bit of cotton. It was beautiful and well lighted. The place where the guests were given seats was pebbled. People do not sit on the grass as there are too many live things there. Some mats of palm leaves were spread on the lawn and a gamelon band played while a Javanese dancing girl entertained us. The gamelon is a Javenese instrument which looks like two rows of stove pots with their covers on. They are played with a drum stick and are very sweet. The dance is more like delsarté than dancing, the hands being an important feature. After awhile we were brought a nice hot paté. Then we turned about and on the other side was a row of native young men. They formed a circle and made a curious picture as they posed and marched, etc. Then two stepped forth and had what I should call -34- a kicking match. Then one took a sharp knife and they played with that. Then two others played the same game. They were so agile that they could do anything a boneless man could. The play would rejoice our theatre managers, and is purely Sumatran. It was very skillful and highly trained. Meanwhile, we were eating a dish of meat, potatoes, mushrooms and a nice vegetable which looked like asparagus but which was young stems of a native fern. Then came a dish of fruit punch, all while the game was going on. We turned about again and looked at the dancing girl awhile, then came a nice salad, made of Lord knows what, and the native men gave another turn. Just before eleven we finished with coffee, ice and cakes. It was just comfortable out doors and was the only clear evening we had in Sumatra, but [*#*] it was not the games, nor music (I should note that when the games were not in progress a band of Chinese played European music) nor the dainty dinner served in delightful instalments, nor the beautiful grounds which gave me the most pleasure. When we arrived there were crowds of natives standing in the street quietly looking at the pretty scene. Little by little they slipped in closer and closer until the party was quite surrounded by a big circle. They were quiet and respectful and the hots refused, I am glad to say, to drive them away. There were mothers with babies, in their slandangs, men, boys, and little children in all stages of dress from native fashion to European garments. Most of these people were my dear Menangkabaus, but there were chinese women and nice little China girls with trousers and sacks. This is the most hygienic, sensible dress for women and girls I have seen worn by women anywhere, but alas it is the least artistic and pleasing to the ye. At 11 o'clock we said goodbye to our host and hostess -35- after the most unique and I think the most costly entertainment given us on our trip. On Thursday morning I wrote a letter to Jus Suffragii. I had to stop frequently to fan myself and I sweated profusely the whole time. A flock of small black gnats which are everywhere flew around my head like moths about a candle and were constantly between my eyes and paper. An occasional mosquito sang his love ditty into my ear, and the black ants which abound beyond comprehension, walked over my paper, crawled up my legs, tickled my neck and were sprinkled over my dress like drops of rain in a shower. They took a savage delight in holding committee meetings on the back of my neck and when disturbed most of the delegates ran down my back. To have actually written a letter and got it off under the circumstances was a heroic undertaking. The W.C's here are out of doors, and made of cement, seat and all. A marble wood seat may be placed over the hole. When a visit is necessary, the ants must be brushed as well as possible from the wood and cement seat with a towel, the clothes drawn up out of danger and the visit made as brief as possible. Ants running up and down the legs in vain endeavor to find their friends is the experience for some time after. Upon one occasion, I moved my chamber out of the commode to a part of the room where the tinkle-tinkle would not be so easily heard by the rest of the family, and left it there while I took my afternoon nap. When I arose at least fifty ants had committed suicide in the depths and at least a hundred mourners stood on the walls hesitating whether to plunge in to their fate or live a bit longer. This, I record, not for my own benefit, but for that of my friends, as I am not likely to forget the ants of -36- Padang! We were to take dinner with Mrs. Kammerling, the Doctor's hostess, and there was quite a party, but the steamer was sailing earlier than was expected and we two had to take our dinner at 7:30 and leave the party before it arrived. We were taken to the boat most comfortably in the motor of Mrs. Schlichter. The Kammerlings are aged 72 and 70 and are delightful old people interested in every good thing, full of life and humor, and they have lived in this blistering, and haunted country for 34 years. They are now planning a trip around the world in two years, when they propose to go through the Panama Canal to visit a son in Brazil. He is a cousin of Martina Kramers. Mr. DeKeth is a Dutch Judge and a fine type of young man. His wife reminded me of sweet Ethel Snowdon, although she had brown eyes. They had three nice little children, the youngest 20 months old and another was well under way. These good people did everything possible to make my stay happy, and I became very fond of them. But think of having sweet children, which cannot be hugged because it is so hot. Their kisses are wet with perspiration and they are wet all over. Every moment of my stay in this tropical land I am thinking how uncomfortable I am, or if by chance I cool off, I am thinking how comfortable I am. The temperature is never out of my mind a minute, and Mr. DeKeth confessed that it had never been out of his mind during the eight years of his residence here. I knew of his changing an entire suit of clothes after being dressed for dinner, because it got so wet! The tropics for them who like them! But if the heat is a bit hard on humans, other life prospers. When the lights are lit in the evening, great flying -37- beetles some two inches long throw themselves about the room striking the wall here and there like a ball. One cannot walk to a neighbors on a moonlight night without a lantern for the road is covered with big hopping toads. There are snakes too, although I did not see one. Many people never to to bed without looking under their bed and especially under their pillow for them. We have now "done" Sumatra, the prettiest country we have visited, and none has been more interesting, but hot!!! There are coffee plantations in the highlands, 5000 feet above sea level, where nights are always cool and where life would be supportable, but Padang and Batavia remind me of that place where the unorthodox were once supposed to go after death. We are fortunate, (Friday, May 10th) to have found a place on the Tambora the largest ship of the Rotterdamsche Lloyd, which is provided with fans and will take us in two nights and a day and a half over the course which took four days and nights. We started at nine last night, and although it was hot, the fans make it fairly comfortable and I had a good night. We got separate rooms, which are large and the beds excellent. To-morrow, Saturday, May 11th, we arrive in Batavia where it is hotter than any place on earth - except Padang! (Sumatra photos Nos. 1 to 27.) Thursday, May 16: According to prediction, we arrived on Saturday, but owing to the coal strike in England our ship was ordered to go slower than usual and we did not arrive until 3 p.m. We found one of the suffragists there to meet us and after long waits we at last got to our hotel. We found the Doctor's sister there awaiting us, and she had brought a big -38- basket of flowers which adorned our verandah table. We had a pavilion nearer the dining room this time, which was an improvement. We could do nothing that night but fan and go to bed. They told us that the oldest inhabitant could not remember so hot and long a spell! On Sunday the Dr. went to spend the morning with her sister, and I washed handkerchiefs, brushes, gloves, boiled water and packed. By noon, I had to take off every dud and hang it up to dry on a line on the back verandah and dress over for lunch. After rice table, I packed in my nighty, and by three o'clock I had to change it, as it was wet enough to wring. On Monday we were up betimes after a night of restless sleep, and taking a carriage from the hotel we went first to our respective banks for money and mail, then to steamship companies to make inquiries, then to bookshops for more reading and a goodbye call on Mrs. Charlottie Jacobs, the Doctor's sister. I like her. We got home for lunch, and I marked my trunk and sent it off to begin its long journey to New York, and we had no chance to sleep. We took a four o'clock train for Buitenzorg. In other words, we shot through Batavia as quick as ever we could. We found Buitenzorg, hot too, but cooler than Batavia. We got rooms at the Hotel Bellevue with a verandah overlooking the pretty view we had admired when there before. The hotel is built on a side hill. Directly before it is a beautiful green mountain, at the foot of the hill is a bend in a river which tumbles over stones and both ends are lost in the growth of trees. It is always full of small brown boys swimming and their voices float up to our verandah. Between the mountain and hotel, and everywhere in fact, is a jungle of coco palms and bananas. It was a sweet tropical view. (Postals 10-13) -39- On Tuesday morning we walked to the Botanical Gardens which are claimed to be the finest in the world. I do not think them so fine as those at Nandy, but they are different. There is, I should think, an acre or more of small trees, (the temple flower) planted in rows and on each one were orchids. I suppose this is the best collection in the world, but not more than twenty kinds were now in bloom and not any were very remarkable. The most beautiful things in the garden were two artificial lakes. In one were the Victoria Regia water lilies. The leaves turned up at the edges like a pan were three or four feet in diameter, and the flowers were great beauties too. On the side of this lake was a tree like those we found in Livingston Island in S.A. It has great crimson coarse blossom and a fruit pod like a club which hang down like some artificial thing fastened to the tree. These fruits are useless but weigh from ten to twelve pounds. The other lake was surrounded by magnificent banyan or Waringen trees and was full as a flower vase of water lilies, blue white, yellow, pink, and rose. It was a beautiful sight. We were so hot that when we got back to the hotel, I could do nothing but sit on our verandah which was now hot, and read some of the papers Mollie had sent me at Batavia. After lunch we napped as usual and took a drive about the town, calling at the Labertons, where we had lunched when there before. The next morning by arrangement, Mr. Laberton came for us at 8:30 o'clock and we went to see the Agricultural School. No girls are admitted. The women here always tended the rice, which is hard work. Now, they teach the boys how to raise new things like rubber, tea and coffee for which they can find a sale, and -40- the women uninstructed keep on raising rice for which they get no or little money. Then we visited the experimental gardens, where there was a fine grove of rubber trees, another of coffee trees, and samples of cinnamon, the pepper vine etc. It was interesting, but the best of all was a visit to the zoological museum, where there are no specimens except those from the Dutch Islands, and it was a wonder house. Nature grows many freaks in the Tropics. The Director showed us about. He had a case of imitative insects. One which looks like the twigs of a tree grows very large here, nearly a foot long. We have a relative of this in the U.S., but the other, which imitates a leaf, I never saw and it seemed to me Nature's most curious creation. Imagine a leaf with serrated edges like this {Drawing of a leaf with serrated edges} and a smaller one on top of it, the leaf exactly like that of the tree it lives on, a little wilted, and the legs queer little imitations of green stems. It was difficult to imagine this to be a thing alive, but we saw it move and eat. The director has been making experiments in cultivating these things for 8 or 9 years, and all the babies are females. They keep on producing without any male. After about eight years he got a male, which fertilized the female and now the lady twigs and lady leafs have no gentlemen in their families. This goes to support the theory that the female is the race and the male an afterthought. But there is a sort of worm-like creature in the Java seas, which lays its eggs on the back of a fish. When these eggs hatch the babies are all males. They got through the -41- scales to the body of the fish and there eat their fill and then they become females. A young male before he changes his sex fertilizes the female, she lays her eggs and dies. This seems to indicate that the race is male and the female an afterthought. It is something for the scientists to quarrel over. Then there is a fish in Java. The thoughtless, indifferent mother lays her eggs and goes off to fish suffragette convention with no care of what happens. The nice father takes the eggs in his mouth and there they develop. He (the director) had the eggs in the various stages. When it still looks rather feeble, being all head, Then the father spits out his children and they have to do for themselves. Still another fish has a pouch like a marsupial in which he carries the eggs of his neglectful wife. In the room where the imitation of nature insects were, was a snake cage of live snakes and two varieties (poison) were green like grass. One had a way of festooning himself around the branches of a tree and then slowly lifting his head and stretching his body for two or three feet and then striking. He was so quiet, so stealthy, and looked so much like the green foliage, that I made up my mind not to sit under any trees in this country. There was a room of birds, and such curious brilliant ones there were. The lyre bird with its two long narrow feathers outlining a lyre. The beautiful bird of paradise from New Guiana, whose feathers are bought from ignorant natives for beads and calico, and birds with feathers curled in every possible way, all freaks of nature - and as brilliant as color could make them, with their demure brown wives by their side, were most interesting, but the chief attraction for me was in the water animals. There were -42- such curious forms, almost unbelievable. Among them was the sea horse with a little horse's head in embryo, many kinds of octupus, etc. One great thing suspended from the ceiling I never saw before. It was three or four feet in diameter, shaped like a diamond with one corner occupied by its mouth which was about a foot long and protected by two tentacles which supported great eyes. The body looked like a sofa cushion. Then there was the mermaid with hairs over her face, looking something like a seal. Several cages of monkeys and apes - all natives in the Dutch Islands. There were orangoutangs from Sumatra and Borneo. The latter are covered with redder hair. The long nosed ape, I do not think I have seen. I think the Malay came from the ordinary apes as they have flat noses, but the Christians and Jews came from the long-nosed ones. This is a good picture [*sketch*] I enjoyed the Museum under the instruction of that intelligent director more than anything for a long time. After lunch we were too hot to do anything more, and the rain poured all the afternoon anyway. The Doctor went at 6 p.m. to organize a club, which she did. This morning we arose at 5:30, sent all the baggage we could spare to Bondveng and at 7 packed what we had to bring and ourselves into a cart drawn by three horses. We rode through pretty scenery with rice plantations in the foreground and mountains in the distance, until we came to a place to change horses. I walked ahead then and enjoyed the dainty ferns and pretty flowers by the roadside. Coffee trees, cinnamon, with many poinsettas and hybiscus in full bloom were common sights. We climbed steadily -43- until we reached a point where we walked a long distance along a good path to a crater now filled with a lake whose waters are very deep. The walls are covered with trees and the lake is renouned for its changing color effects. There was no sun, but the trees threw reflections into the water, and the surface became iridescent with bronzy shades. It was a pretty sight. We passed through a kina (quinine) plantation. The leaves are very bitter and a tea made from them is as efficacious as pills. A further drive of an hour brought us to a little native village and this Sanatorium Hotel of Sindauglaija built on a hill. It is the best we have seen for a long time, although thoroughly Dutch in all its appointments. We had just time to wash our hands before lunch and after it I had a glorious nap for my two long walks and the ride in an indescribably uncomfortable vehicle made me tired. Although I had a little cover, and had laid down with my clothes on, I awoke with a nice old-fashioned de- lightful shiver. I arose and took another walk around the grounds. There are beautiful Waringen trees filled with orchids and roses and astors, and dahlias in blossom. Under a fine Waringen tree is a look out upon the peaceful rice fields of the little valley and there I sat, cool and happy and read a paper. Then I walked another way home and found the Doctor just up. Tea was waiting on our verandah table and in my best Malay, with con- sists of gestures mainly, I got two plates, knives and spoons and with these utensils we each devoured ten Mangosteens, which we had bought at a passar in the morning. There is only a mouthful in each one of the delicious, juicy, delicately flavored center, so ten is not so many. I began Mangosteen with a capital because it is the queen of all fruits, the climax of Nature's fruit creations. -44- Now it is time to dress for our eight o'clock dinner. The hotel is full of nice-looking people, for this is one of the spots where the Dutch come to recruit themselves from the ener- vating heat of the low lands. It is over 3500 ft. high and I shall put on wool stockings with my slippers and will need a wrap. I anticipate a blessed night under blankets! We are to stay four days and every moment will be a blessed experience. Friday, May 17th. The night was delightful as I antici- pated. We breakfasted at 8 and at 8:30 we entered our palanquins, engaged the night before, each carried by four coolies, and started for the mountain gardens a part of the botanical garden at Buitenzorg. It takes two hours to get there and as it is 900 ft. higher than the hotel, it was mostly uphill. We passed through tea, coffee and kina plantations, and through small villages. The poinsetta which grows here wild, a small tree, perhaps 20 ft. high was common and covered with its brilliant blossoms. There were many hedges of scarlet hybiscus, and wild gardenias of white, pink and scarlet. It was a beautiful journey and at one point there was a magnificent view of a peaceful rice terraced valley bounded on both sides by mountains, the opposite range being picturesquely jagged and half hidden under a blue haze. The boys set us down at the entrance and a stone walk bordered on one side by great pines, fifty years old, from Australia, a variety I had never seen. At the end of the walk was the Director's house and two grass trees, also from Australia. (Postals 14 & 15). They are certainly a thing left over from the Carboniferous age - a curious trunk covered with sort of cone-shaped bits of bark set on endwise, like this: [*sketch*] so that the trunk is well protected and at the -45- top a clump of long grass. We found the director and for an hour and a half we wandered over the grounds. Here is a collec- tion of pines and they do beautifully at this altitude, and there were many sorts I never saw. We walked in shady paths through a grove of fern trees - real trees with trunks and at the top of it a clump of fern leaves, long and graceful. There was a collection of 100 dahlias, beautiful ones, and splendid begonias, and many things which belong to the temperate zone, but the presence of the palm here and there lifting his royal head among the pines, and the variety of orchids perched in all sorts of places, kept us in mind of the fact that we were in the tropics. At one place there was a lookout with a seat. I hurried on ahead, leaving the Doctor and the Director chatter- ing Dutch. It was the same view we had caught coming up, but with time to take it in, it was more impressive. It filled me with ecstatic, peaceful joy as such views always do. I real- ize that the most blissful moments of my life have been those shared with no one else when in communion with nature. We re- turned by a different route and arrived just in time for our 1 p.m. lunch. I went to bed, blessed be the record, with my clothes on and slept until nearly four. Then I wrote until dinner. A gentlemanly, bald-headed Spaniard, born in Manila, came here when we did and we talked together as tourists do and he spent both Thursday and Friday evenings with us and we got much information we needed. Saturday, May 18. This morning I spent writing important and long-neglected letters, and it was good not to have to stop to fan myself and wipe off the sweat. After lunch we rested a bit and then went for a walk to see the Governor's country home, for -46- when he likes he may come here. We found signs of "entrance forbidden" in Dutch but we didn't see them and went all over the grounds without meeting any one. There was a grove of pines and palms, and quantities of wild orchids. We picked some and added some stalks of wild red colene which is just like that in our gardens. It made a beautiful rare bouquet and the Doctor had it. Unfortunately we ran into the caretaker, who informed her that it was forbidden to pluck the flowers even though wild, so she sweetly handed it over to him, while I looked on. Coming home we stopped at a native sale of fruit and bought two pamplemeuse, or grape fruits, for four cents each. We got caught in a shower and went into an open native verandah. They brought us two chairs, their only ones, for they sit on the floor. It seemed to be the haunt of reproduction. A young smiling girl, who looked about 14 years old, sat on the floor and nursed a baby about 1-1/2 years, and a yellow cat and a gray one nursed their respective litters of yellow and gray kittens, neither one knowing which kittens were hers, a dog nursed some puppies and two hens brooded over some recently hatched chickens. We concluded the world would go on if that household continued. We ate half of one pamplemeuse upon our arrival home, for they are so large that that was sufficient, and now I am writing here. We must have walked two hours and were not tired at all. We are both delighted to find that when the climate permits we can do something beside sweat. Alas! we have only one more day in this charming, cool spot. Monday, Eve., May 20. Yesterday, (Sunday) we took three short walks, one about the grounds which were large and contained many fine Banyan trees and many roses. A pleasing look out over a -47- rice terraced valley was also an attraction. The rest of the time we wrote letters. Our rooms adjoined and opened on an immense verandah. In front of each room, was a table and a comfortable chair for writing. We had had no such accommodation before and the cool weather made it ideal. The table was the very worst we had seen since Rangoon, nevertheless we were sorry to leave this morning. We drove over a beautiful road in a little dos-a-dos for 1-1/2 hours, till we came to our station. We were just in time for our train and arrived here at 11:30. We found a young lady (who was one of the dancers at one of the entertainments at the Amsterdam Congress, and who married her partner and is now divorced) at the station to meet us. A man accompanied her and they escorted us to the Hotel Preanger, where we are installed in the Director's Pavilion. (Postal 16) We each have a bed room, a common sitting room and two verandahs. Our lunch was good. I have now gone on a strike and shall do no sightseeing until my correspondence is complete. The Dr. has a meeting but I have refused to speak. I do not think they half understand, so why should I? We have been to call on the Resident. It rained all the time. The worst of this country is that it must rain every day, and it selects for this daily task the latter part of the afternoon when it is best to go out. It is not so cool here, but it will permit work. Every town has its specialty in the insect line. The ants in Padang will never be forgotten; the mosquitoes in Batavia nearly drove us crazy; in Buitenzorg it was a black gnat which flew between eyes and paper so that one could neither read nor write; in Sendaglaija it was the white ant whose corpses covered our -48- tables and made writing impossible after the lights were lit; here in Bandoeng it is a sort of white gnat which cuts up the same tricks. I wonder what next! Saturday, June 1: I kept my vow and stuck to work in Bandoeng. At one time I mailed 26 letters and 36 post cards; at another 11 letters and 3 or 4 post cards. How many more there were I do not know. But when I left I carried with me the burden reduced to half dozen letters. I also wrote an article for Jus Suffragii; one for the Voter and one for the Woman's Journal, and started one which I hope may grow into a magazine article. We found the Hotel Preanger all things considered the very most comfortable of any hotel we had had for months. The beds were good, the rooms clean and there was plenty of room to stow away our things. The food was excellent and there was a looking glass which permitted me to see my belt - the first time I had had that privilege. The Doctor had a suffrage meeting, and a later meeting when she organized a club and another, when she met the elected officers. I did not attend any of these - I just stuck to business. We cut Garoet from our list in order to finish more work. We wished to take a walk every evening, but it usually rained at that time so we did not often get it. One evening I went out alone in the twilight and walked down a straight road, then turned and walked back, but I soon knew I was lost, so I appealed to two young Dutchmen and they had to take me home. If they hadn't, I would not be writing this record, for I "sure was lost." On Wednesday, the 29th, we took an excursion to Mt. Praha. We went by motor for an hour over a betwitchingly beautiful road to Lembeng where there is a hotel. It is much higher than Bandoeng. -49- There we took Sedan chairs and were carried through a still more beautiful road, but at times a dreadful one straight up to the crater. It smokes in a few places but has been out of commission for sometime. It was interesting to see that immense hole, and the top gone from the mountain, but the joy of the trip was the route. We went through cinchona or kina plantations mostly. But Java has the densest population in the world and one realized it for the people are everywhere. Crowds are to be seen on the country roads. The native scenes are only duplicates of others, but one does not tire of them. We were back for lunch and not even tired. We did not get hot or walk at all. On Thursday, we left dear, cook, charming Bandoeng at 11 a.m. and arrived at Djokakarte at 7. It was an interesting trip through the rice fields, with blue hazy mountains on either side and the usual palms and bananas everywhere. We found ourselves tired and dirty for there had been much dust, and soon after dinner we were in bed. Friday morning, a young lady who speaks English well, came to invite me out to see something. The Dr. was to leave at noon for Magelan where she spoke in the evening, but I went with Miss Engel. She took me to the Passar and explained a good many things. It was a very large one and there were many more women there than among the Sundanese in Western Java. At 1 p.m. the Dr. left and I spent the afternoon in reading up for to-day's excursion. It had been arranged that she should return to Montelan by rail and that I should meet her by motor and then we should go to the famous old Buddhist Temple Boro Budor. (Boedoer) I did so, but I had picked up an American man with a German name and a Russian and his daughter, (no, sister). -50- We met the Doctor and had a delightful trip, although much too short. We whisked through little towns, passed little passars, and through beautiful roads with great trees interlocking their branches overheard. The Temple is certainly a wonder. It stands in a big, broad valley, surrounded by mountains. It is said to be built over a hill which was terraced from bottom to top. It is Buddhist and resembles others of that faith. It is called the temple of a thousand Buddhas, and there must be some hundreds of them left, although the Buddha images and all sorts of carvings decorate all the country round. There are three terraces at the top, each with a circle of small dagobas, or bell-shaped, latticed temples, each each containing a Buddha. Every bit of space is carved and thousands of workmen must have worked upon the temple. (See Photo No.28, 30, & 30(?), print No.29, postals No. 18,19-25) We climbed up seven flights to the top and there we found a view more charming than the temple, for we looked over a fertile valley, decked with coco banana and palm trees and every inch cultivated. We stopped at Tjandi Moendut on our return and found a restored small temple containing in an inner room three immense Buddhas. These people are Mohammedans and Mohammet tried to do away with idol worship, but they still have a good deal of Hindu worship and Buddha is as good as any other image. We found a small burnt offering before the central Buddha. On the Boro Boedoer I smelled the strong, sweet perfume of the temple flower, and although I didn't see it, the offering had been made. We got back to the hotel in time for a late lunch, and the last part of our trip was very warm, and I had felt sick up on the temple where the sun shone mercilessly. After lunch we slept and took a drive in the evening. -51- Sunday, June 2. This morning we went to see the Sultan's palace. It was not at all interesting - at least the part we saw. But the story of the Sultan is interesting. The old fellow cannot leave his palace for a breath of fresh air without permission from the Resident. He is a prisoner in his own palace, but a pretense of authority and a very empty imitation of royalty is maintained. He has six wives and about 40 by wives. He has had 153 children, but only 53 are living, which looks as though something is wrong. But he has 100 cocks and each cock has a servant to look after him. Several servants were seen with their cocks, for every day they get a bath and a walk. Cock-fighting is forbidden the people, but the Sultan is permitted to have his cocks fight twice a week, provided he invites no one. The Resident had a distinguished guest who was to be received by the Sultan this evening, and there was to have been a dance which we wanted to see. We saw the preparations going on - the 2500 servants dusting the chairs! At the entrance we passed through three courts and there were guards in each, but in the inner court opposite the Sultan's house two men sat on the ground behind a gun, such as troops carry on their shoulders. These represent the cavalry and the infantry, but there are no horses for the cavalry, but like their master they keep up the pretense. We called upon the Resident who lives in a beautiful palace to see if we could go this evening. He was willing, but he received a message while were there that the whole thing was off, because a granddaughter had just died and the family would go into mourning. When a man has 153 children and a proportional number of grandchildren, most of his time is naturally spent in rejoicing -52- over births and sorrowing over funerals. As he has already wept over the coffins of 100 children and we know not how many grandchildren, he at least is experienced in affliction. We stopped at a nice curio shop, the best of the kind I've found in Java, and I bought some photos and postals of Javanese. See postals No. 26 to 31, and photos large, No. 31, 32 & 33, small No. 34 1/2 to 48. After lunch we rested and I read up about some more temples we are to see to-morrow. At 5:30 we were rigged up in our best and in a grand "milord" as the big carriages are called and going to see the Prince, for the Sultan has sort of a guard called a Prince, not so high as the Sultan, but a royalty. We had a letter to him from Mr. Laborton of Buitenzorg. He is a little interested in Theosophy. He lives in a fine palace with an immense marble floored verandah where we were received by the Prince, his Uncle, four brothers and four sisters. He is a young man and is the "boss" of his house. He is liberal, but he would not promise that his sisters would go to the meeting to-morrow. The conversation was in Dutch so I could only watch symptoms. We were served with tea and cake and later with lemonade. The refreshments were brought by nine servants who knelt as soon as they came near, and who hunched about in a way no white man could do if his life depended on it. No servant approaches his master save on his knees, or rather in squatting position. It was laughable in one sense and tragic in another to see nine men with waiters in their hands, crawling along like toads. These Javanese do the same in the house of the Resident. The little Princesses were sweet and pretty and bright. (Photos 49 to 54. ( Postals of JAVANESE life, 32 to 40. The Javanese have -53- (a sort of a theatre which consists of pantomime done to the (recital of the old Mababoraia or Pamayana of the Hindoos. (When pantomime is acted by men it is Wajang Orang, see ( postal 41. When the people put on masks for the part it ( is Wajang Wong, see postal 42. It is also done with ( dolls, in which case they use them as shadows, manipulating (them behind a curtain. I must return to the Sultan's Palace to record that under a small shed was a nice grandfather clock, and above a neighboring shed was a large bell, its rope leading into the small shed. Two men were watching day and night by the side of the clock, and every hour they rang the bell. Thus the centuries old custom of ringing the bell is continued, but it is done with scientific accuracy. The most astute thing I have heard of in connection with Colonial affairs was done by the Dutch here, Norah is it a bit more unprincipled than a thousand other instances of the way the Europeans got the upper hand in Asiatic countries. There was here a somewhat powerful kingdom - the real heart of Java was here. The kingdom is supposed to have been founded by the Hindus, so long ago that no one can name the date, and was called Mataram, which means Mother. A Sultan presided over it and the Dutch, loaded down as they were with wars could not attack it. At length the Chinese in the kingdom revolted and the Sultan called in the Dutch to help, which of course they did. When that difficulty was quieted down, a brother of the Sultan made claims to his throne and the Dutch settled that matter and then just took over the whole kingdom, but with the understanding that the Susuhunan, as the Sultan was called, should keep on ruling with his headquarters at Solo where he already was. The kingdom was divided, and the brother set up at Djockija. In each Court a Prince was appointed by the Resident, who is supported by the -54- Dutch and who watches over the Sultan. The Sultan of Djockija gets 40,000 f per month, that of Solo about $100,000, but the Dutch say, your kingdom must keep its roads in repair, it must keep up the police, the army, etc. We will do this for you, and deduct the amount from your allowance! These Sultans however own all the land and rent it out, so they get a good income for that. They are prisoners in their own palaces, not being permitted to take a drive or walk outside their own walls or kraton without permission of the Resident. Nor can they receive a call from any one without that person's consent. But they are permitted to have as many wives as they please, and their indulgence in this respect seems to be the balm of all other humiliations. The Dutch have the situations absolutely in their hands, and although the maintenance of these hollow farces is somewhat costly, it is nothing compared to war. These Sultans give very grand barbaric festivals, but we arrived too late for one here, and the sorrowing Sultan had even to cut off the dance, so we got nothing here, and we learn that at Solo, there is to be a grand affair after July 1, when we shall be gone, and that therefore we shall see nothing there - more's the pity. Monday, June 3. At 7 a.m. we were in the motor car with our American fellow tourist and our Russian friends, and bound for the plain of Parambanan. It was not more than 3/4 hour's drive and here are more Hindu ruins. We stopped first at Tjandi (Temple) Kali Bening, a real little Temple which showed its once great beauty. Our next was Tjandi Sari, a building resembling a house and from which a Buddha was once taken. Then came Tjandi Parambanan, or the Durga Temple. There was a central temple containing four rooms. One had the familiar eight-armed -55- Durga, one a Siva, one their elephant-headed son Geneshathi, other I couldn't make out. There were beautiful bas reliefs, one series were of Haneman, the Monkey God, and one is said to be spirits which appeared to Buddha, for these builders seem to have combined Hindu and Buddhist faith. (Postal 57) Before the Durga were many fresh offerings of flowers and rice, although these people are Mohammedans to whom it is forbidden to worship idols or images. Around this central temple are six others badly ruined, but plainly once very wonderful, and outside this group are 3 rows small temples, 157 in total. It must have been a very wonderful thing when complete. We called at Tjandi Sewoe, or The Thousand Temples - the largest ruin in Java. In reality there were 240 temples. It is too badly ruined to reveal just what it was. An eruption of Mt. Merapi, (same name as one in Sumatra, meaning mountain of fire) which towers just above it buried all these temple under ashes, and they were forgotten. They were only rediscovered about a century ago, and excavation began only in 1885. There were four entrances to the Temple, and each was guarded by a pair of fierce, kneeling Brahmins wearing the cord over the shoulders. These are wonderfully well preserved. It was an interesting morning, and especially because it is said the ruins in Central America very closely resemble these, did these interest me. It was hot when we were back at 10:30 and so I did not go out again. After lunch I washed my hair, crimped, dressed in my best, and at 6:30 I attended the Doctor's meeting. It was a nice audience and I think she spoke well. She got 70 members, and the four little Princesses were there. The Prince will not allow a servant of inferior order to touch his 2 year old boy, -56- and compels one of the Princesses to be its nurse. She must sit before him bare to the waist, as is the custom of those who serve in the royal houses. The Princesses have asked the Dr. to go to them at 5 to-day, as they would ask questions. They are in revolt of mind, but poor little prisoners, they do not know what to do. They went to a Dutch school but were taken away at 12, for after that it is wrong for a woman to appear in public. Soon they will be married to some man they have never seen! My goodness, if breaking windows could liberate our sex, we ought to smash every one in the world! This morning, Tuesday, June 4, Miss Engel came to act as a guide and by nine we were in a carriage. We went first to the Water Castle, once a sort of resort for the Sultan. It is rather picturesque, as it stands in the midst of coco palms, bamboo, and bananas. It was here the Sultan was amusing himself and at the same time keeping the Dutch General Daendaels waiting. The General finally went in, and took him captive after which there was no more power for him. We went to a school for teachers - 200 boys, who got each a nice room to himself, board, books, pencils and all concerning the education, absolutely free and 10 F per month beside. This is the rule in Java and Sumatra. Here were two girls who get nothing at all free and of course no money. The preparatory schools are so poor for girls that it is difficult for them to get into these higher schools, and when they do and acquit themselves as well as the boys, conservative parents whisk them out of schools, and marry them off. Here, the only correct function of a woman is to have a baby in her "slangdang." O, Lord!!!!!! hear ye the prayers of thy daughters! Next we visited a pawn shop as we had promised Mr. Nittel -57- to do so. He is the Director of the Government ones and wanted us to see the difference, for here they are under the Chinese, the Government not yet having taken them over. There were the same crowds, and not so much care nor system, but we both got the idea that the strict honesty of the Government pawnshops has established confidence in them and increased rather than diminished the very bad habit of the people to pawn their little all. The Government strikes down one of the ways the Chinese have of getting rich - nothing more. Next we paid a visit to the Passar, which is one of the largest we have seen. Women mainly are in charge, quite the opposite from the Sudanese in West Java. The Javans are not a pretty people; the Sudanese are. Among the lower classes of both, betel chewing is universal. It turns the teeth black and seems to wear them off. Perhaps the Javans file their teeth as many people of this section do, but the boys and girls of the better classes, such as we saw at the school, are very nice-looking. At the Passar, fully half of the woman had babies, all without a stitch on. They never cry nor play, nor do the children often play with each other. They simply vegetate. We have seen Djockja and to-morrow we move on to Solo. It was not until bedtime yesterday that I recalled that it was the anniversary of my re-birth. I thought it over and concluded that the two years had brought me better health of body than I have had for some years. Whether I have gained a corresponding vigor of mind and nerve, I doubt. At any rate, I am glad I am here, and not there where I nearly went. Life was never so interesting as now. I think the reason we all dread death is that it is taking us away from a drama whose events -58- are very compelling right in the middle of it. We want to stay and see how it comes out. Thursday, June 6. We are in the old Hotel Stier, the best in Solo, but not so good as it might be. For the first time in months we are on the second floor, and it has the advantage of greater security, and I believe it is cooler when there is a breeze, but hotter when there is none. We were informed upon our arrival that the Prince, the personage who occupies the same position here as the Prince we had visited in Djockja, would give a small reception in the "vor abend" and that we could go. Several military officers had recently been transferred to Solo and this was an occasion to introduce them. The Prince dressed in the uniform of the Dutch Colonel stood in line a la Americanne and by his side was his sister, (as his wife is very ill) and his daughter. The Prince looked quite civilized, but the sister has no teeth and the stubs left were black with her betel chewing. She wore a brown batiked sarong, and a kabaija of pale blue brocaded silk, and was barefooted. The daughter wore the same costume. A Dutchman, now Treasurer for the Prince, took the ladies one at a time on his arm and introduced them. After all were introduced, we were led by the two women of the household through the mazes of a large formal garden all enclosed in high walls. It was so dark we could see little. We had been received in an immense open drawing room. In opposite corners were tables surrounded by chairs, all placed upon rugs. The company separated them into three groups, the Prince and his ladies forming the center of one group, a group of military men formed another around a center table, and the remainder gathered in the other corner. Cigars were served to the men, lemonade, whiskey and soda, mineral water, etc. to the women, and later -59- glasses for liquors were brought with quite an assortment of strong drinks to choose from. As most of the conversation was Dutch, I amused myself with looking about. Seated on the floor oriental fashion behind us, were about thirty women of the house. When refreshments were brought, nine waiters brought each something, and always coming in a procession. They were barefooted, and wore something like a Scotch cap on their heads, the first of the kind we have seen. They wore brown figured sarongs, white jackets and immense kris (as the Javanese call their swords or daggers) were stuck in the belt at the back. They did not crawl as did the servants of the Djogka Prince, but they locked hands in a prayerful way before passing anything. They were superintended by the Prince's Uncle, who was the "belle of the ball" for me. {Sketch of a man} I thought I'd draw him, but I cannot. Imagine a stout, Mikado figure of real true dignity and royal feeling. Clothe it with a Scotch cap, a batiked brown sarong (skirt), a stiff white shirt front with very large black buttons, the top of a dress coat but with no tails, the whole fastened by a wide belt presenting three glistening diamond buckles in front, a fan attached to a chain kept in vigorous motion - and bare feet. Never shall I forget him, although it was a stupid evening. -60- We dined after our return. Tonight is the meeting, so we planned little for the day. We breakfasted early and took a short drive visiting the Passar which was very crowded. We got there just in time to see everyone taking breakfast, for these people do not eat at home. Again the scene was changed, and most of the market folk are women. Those who had eatables, rice tables, or plain rice, were driving a good business. They serve it in a bit of banana leaf, fasten it with a thorn and the purchaser, throws it into her basket and eats it when she has time. Babies were much in evidence. Some were eating their breakfasts out of banana leaves and some were taking Nature's beverage. Civilized women sit down and make a business of it when they nurse a baby, but not so here, for the baby is securely swung in the "slangdang" and he just sucks away while the mother walks or works. She could even go to vote while giving her offspring their breakfast. From our upstairs verandah we command a view of the main street. Soon a procession passed, and as every man wore a kris in his belt, they belonged to royalty. There were two headmen carrying some sort of insignia. A man with a big silver tray, two men with big boxes covered with velvet and gilt, then a man with a golden hat, and over him a man behind carried a big golden parasol called a payung, then come some plain folk, and behind came a few more men carrying poles with a sort of iron insignia on top. All were barefooted. Afterwards we saw them return. They had been to pay a visit and perhaps had carried a gift of fruit or something to Sultan or Prince. Later, the Prime Minister (Native) went by in a carriage with a big gold umbrella over him. Alas! One of the Susuhunan's 36 children -61- is ill, and he wanted to take him to the mountains where he has a house. To do so he must ask consent of the Resident. The consent is readily granted and a "guard of honor" is provided to escort him there, and this guard of soldiers stay as long as he does. He probably realizes that he is a prisoner, but it softens the blow to call his Captors "guards of honor." All the old Javanese royal form is carried on just as usual. The Dutch were astute enough to discover that the people worship these Sultans, believing them to have some of the qualities of gods, so they save themselves trouble by allowing them to think they are being governed by a Sultan, and that they honor him with a guard when he wants to go into the country! I let the Dr. go to the meeting alone tonight, and she is converting the natives this minute. It is a pity we cannot get a chance to see this Javan royalty at its best, but with a dead granddaughter in Djockja and dying son for the Susuhunan here, we shall get little opportunity so we shall hope more golden payungs will pass by. The greatness of the man is measured by the size of his payung, and not all are permitted to have one carried over them. The Resident has one as big as the Sultan's. I wonder if he feels like a fool! Friday, June 7. This morning at 7:30 we were in a comfortable little carriage, drawn by a couple of rats called horses. These so called horses are smaller and more miserable here than ever. We drove for half an hour through the now familiar scenes of roads with huge trees, tamarind or banyan meeting overhead, of native women with their little passars, palms and bananas, until we came to "the river." There we dismissed our carriage and rats, and were poled across on a bamboo raft by a small boy. -62- We had to sit in oriental fashion for once. On the other side a private carriage awaited us and in half an hour more we arrived at the home of the Supt. of a sugar plantation. A pretty half caste wife, and the Supt. received us, and he showed us through the factory. It was the first attempt of the Dutch to take up sugar manufacturing, and will soon be abandoned and more up-to- date apparatus take its place. It was the same thing we had seen the Sumatra women doing, only elaborated into machinery. In the Superintendent's carriage we were driven (after two good cold drinks) to a large plantation, where there is a thoroughly up- to-date factory, or "farbick." A lady in charge of the house was the widowed sister of Mrs. Kunst of Medan, whom I called the "Dutch Angel" (for every day she sent us fruit, coffee or something. The Supt. and the Chemist of the factory could both speak a little English, which is unusual. It was interesting to have seen the three stages. (1) The primitive machine of the women; (2) The same thing elaborated; (3) The modern method. These people sent us in their carriage to a railway station, and we came back by train just at 1 p.m. in time for Rice Table. The Doctor complained of fever and thinks she has had a touch of malaria. She took a dose of quinine and went to bed. For six months that unrelenting pest of man, the mosquito, has had his own way with us. Even when we are hidden behind muslin curtains and four beds, they creep in and after they have had a good supper they begin to sing, but never before. We are told that most of them are not the malaria kind, but we have had enough of the right variety to develop malaria and keep the quinine bottles going. The Supt. of our first plantation visited -63- told us a good malaria tale. There are eight houses right by the factory in which factory workers live. Malaria broke out among them and every person in the eight houses got it. They thought there must be something wrong with the houses, and the management proposed to build other houses, in a healthier place, move the people in them, and burn these, but the natives would not move. They said that would do no good as the "evil spirit" in the houses would only follow them. There is superstition versus microbes. Now would these people take quinine, but they got over it, when the evil spirit was propitiated by offerings! We also heard a sad part of the Susuhunan's experience with his sick son. At three years, the little fellow developed tuberculosis. A Dutch doctor said he might be saved by a residence in Switzerland. (There are places just as good in Java but they were not known then) So the boy went to Switzerland with a Dutch nurse. At 7 years he seemed recovered, so he was brought home. He could speak Dutch, but no Javanese, and he would have nothing to do with father or mother. So they sent the nurse away and he soon became so ill, they cabled for her to return. She took him again to Switzerland and he was put in school. Now at 17 he returns without the nurse. They have put him in a savong and are teaching him his native tongue, but he doesn't like anything of his family or country and has again gone into a decline and will probably die. Of all his 36 children, the Susuhunan loves this one best. It is said the old fool really thinks the Dutch cordon of police is a "guard of honor" and does not realize the humiliation of his position. But his sons are all sent to Europe for their education. These -64- boys will learn the truth and in time the system will simply die. The Dutch are certainly clever dogs! Saturday, June 8. Just how it comes about, I cannot understand, but the Sudanese people who occupy the West portion of Java, seem to have adopted Western customs of giving the pocket book to the man, who also does nearly all the work and carries all the burdens. Here among the real Javanese, the women do all the work in the rice fields and manage the passars, and are always passing up and down with their big baskets. It seems they all earn their own living and keep their own money. In consequence, they are highly esteemed by men and husbands, and they will take no foolishness. I must say that in Sumatra, and Java, I have never seen a young girl casting eyes at a boy, as is done repeatedly among the civilized. These woman walk along about their business as though there were no men in the world, and yet, there seems a baby in every slangdang, but that seem business too. These women of Java have the same political power as the men - that is a vote for their village (dessa) headman. Only landowners may vote, and as married women do not usually own land, most of them are barred by the qualification, but when a woman of higher caste marries a man of lower caste, she keeps her land if she has any, and in that case may vote. These women carry a kris in their belt. Here we wish for a kodak every day, for we are nowhere able to get photos. There are such interesting pictures on every hand if we could but get them. This evening at 7 we repaired to the Prime Minister's reception. Since the Sultan of Djogka was burying one of his granddaughters by one of his 153 children, we had to content ourselves with a visit to the Prince, as since [in] the Susuhanan -65- was weeping by the bedside of one of his 36 children, we had to see the Prince there too. But the Susuhanan's Prime Minister was the best we could do. He lives in a magnificent palace. Like all oriental palaces a big colonaded reception hall is the front of the building, behind it is a court from which the palace itself is entered. I stepped from the carriage first and a dignified gentleman came forward to offer his arm. He took me to the P.M. near by, and then we marched along the center of the great marble hall to Mrs. P.M. who sat in the center of a semi-circle of forty of fifty chairs. My escort was somewhat rotund, with a back as straight as an arrow. He wore a turban, a sarong and a jacket, and a huge kris in his belt in the middle of his back, and he was barefooted! Mrs. P.M. wore a brown batiked sarong, exactly like her husband's. Very high families have special patterns of their own, and no on else is permitted to wear them. Her feet were bare but she wore embroidered sandals. Her kabaija was of purple brocaded silk, fastened by a very large diamond brooch, diamond earrings were in her ears, diamond pins in her hair, and a diamond ring on each first and fourth finger. Her teeth were largely gone and her mouth black from betel chewing. We took our places in the semi-circle and soon it was full of females, black and white and yellow. Then about twenty waiters in long red-figured calico coats to their knees came in with trays of glasses and after cringing around like a whipped dog and making obeisances with hands clasped palm to palm, we were all served with pink lemonade, which was delicious. Then our P.M and Mme P.M. arose and we followed, and they took us through the palace. It was immense and of the pavilion class, so that we were always passing from one pavilion into a garden or court and then into another. There were parlors -66- and bedrooms and three large rooms in which were stored the gifts to his Nibs from illustrious people. But the great sight was the groups of servants. In every court and garden groups of men, or women, sat on the ground looking like so many bronze statues. The men were bare to the waist with a strap of yellow, the ends finished with fringe around their necks. This was the insignia of the house. The women were in "court dress," that is their slangdangs were bound around their bodies just under their arms. The bust is covered and although more bare skin is exposed, the dress is more decent than that of society ladies in Paris or London. In all, we must have seen somewhere between 500 and 1000 of these brown servants who had to sit there silently during the two hours of our visit. They are virtually slaves. There were the oriental lights of tumblers full of cocoanut oil in which a bit of cotton was lighted and it gave a dim light which made the groups look strange and weird. One room reminded me of Frederick-the-Great's at Potadam. It was small and occupied in the center by a modern desk over which hung an electric light and a telephone stood at one side. Three corners of the room were taken up with plush covered seats, the backs extending to the ceiling. These were secret doors. One opened into a bedroom, one a bathroom, one a dressing room. Here the Susuhunan sleeps sometimes. It was a long walk through the endless rooms, which were oddly furnished with beautiful and cheap bric-a-brac and furniture side by side. The oriental has not caught Western taste. We returned to our semi-circle and had another drink. In the garden a group of girls had their laps full of cornocopias and handed one to each -67- guest. They contained tiny things about half way between a cracker and a cake, and were made by Mrs. P.M. herself. When the highest military man arose at nine o'clock to depart, we made quick tracks for home and dinner, leaving behind us the profoundest bow we knew how to make. Sunday, June 9. We left early for Samarang and without incident arrived. Some ladies met us and brought us to the Hotel Pavilion. Here, I found letters and papers which occupied us until lunch. Then we both undressed and went to bed. At 4 I took a mandy (Dutch Indian bath), dressed, had coffee and at 5:15 we got a carriage with the best team we had seen in Java and drove for two hours. Samarang is beautiful. We stopped at a unique and costly garden. It belongs to a Chinaman who allows the public to come and go as it likes. He lives in a palace himself - and the money was made by his father selling opium!! We dined at eight and at nine were at the hall where we were to speak. The meeting was about as usual. Monday, June 10. We have been this morning to look up information concerning our departure from Java, to the post office, the bank, and a photographer's. We could find little but I bought 13 mostly of Boro Boedoer at 8.10 F. (See Photos 55 to 67) Our hearts are nearly broken because we missed a nice sensation. The papers announce that a Hadja (a man who has been to Mecca) went into the Mosque in Padang to pray, when lo! lying before an altar fast asleep was a full grown tiger. He went out, closing the door quietly and found some expert gunners who came and shot him. Why could not this nice thing have happened when we were there? It would have been such a good excuse to give for keeping our blinds closed. -68- At the P. M's reception the Doctor was told that three sons of the Susuhunan were in Holland five years at school. Upon their return, a special hour was set to present themselves to their father. Two came barefooted in native dress, the third came in his European clothes. His father was furious and commanded him to leave his presence at once. He was then ordered to wear the garments of a servant and although that happened some two years ago, he has not been promoted to his noble's dress! This seems to indicate that royal tyranny is not dead. Formerly, say a hundred years ago, on a certain day each week, any one who had a favor to ask of the Sultan at Djogja, presented himself dressed in white, between two banyan trees, which are still there. These petitioners seated themselves on the ground and awaited the Sultan's pleasure. When he heard their plea and found their request insolent or presumptious, he ordered them put to death and his order was executed at once while he looked on. I must not forget that in Djogja the Prince a few months back evidently in imitation of the Chinese, ordered all the men of his household to cut off their hair. Men in Java after puberty wear long hair. At about 12 or 13 , they are circumcised and an elaborate festival takes place. We have seen one. The boy dressed in guady necklaces and garb, evidently rented, rode a horse, while a number of grown men and small boys surrounded him, and all marched to the music of a native band. After this their hair grows. I should have mentioned that at the P. M's reception there was music by a native band of 100 pieces. They played classical European music. I know this because there was a printed program and I recognized the names. I do not mean to infer that the same fact could not be discovered from the music -69- itself. It was 22 years ago to-day that George and I were married. Tuesday, June 11. This morning I wrote letters. This afternoon I read papers Mollie had sent and was dressed at 5. One of the Bruce von Gumon family, a young married lady, came for us with a motor, being her own chauffeur, and took us to her home which is on a hill outside the town. It was a charming spot which commanded a wonderful view, showing even the ships out at sea. We saw the sun set and the sky illuminated by rare colors of green and scarlet and gold - rather strange colors for a sunset, but they were there. They brought me back at 7 and took the Doctor to her cousin's. Her cousin's husband is chief of police here, and is going to take her to see an opium joint which is here called a kit. So I shall dine alone, pack my things and be ready to leave early for Sourabaija to-morrow. Sunday evening, June 16. We found the best hotel in Sourabaija we have had in Java - the Orange. We spent Thursday looking up our passage and getting money at the bank. We booked with the Java, China, Japan S.S. Tjimanock. It remains to be seen whether it was a foolhardy thing to do. We shall take it at Sanorang. Friday morning, Mrs. Ingerman went with us to brass- shops and I got some samples of Javanese brass. In the afternoon I took the box packed at Djockja to the Rotterdamsche Lloyd, where I shipped it to Mollie after having put my brass in it. That evening we had the last meeting. There was a good audience. I made a few feeble remarks to a tolerant audience who did not know what I said. I am glad those boresome things are over. The Doctor has added about 400 members to her Association. On Saturday the Doctor had an organization meeting and I packed all the time. My two trunks went to the steamer in the -70- afternoon. The small baggage except my straw dress suit case went into storage at the hotel until our return. We found Sourabaji a very pretty place with beautiful shops of Chinese wares, etc. It was so much more comfortable than we had expected that we were delighted. They told us it was the coolest time of year. We arrived at Lawang after a very hot train ride through a very pretty district, too late to see how it looked. We found a small hotel with a strong-minded looking Dutch woman in the usual sarong, kabaija and mule slippers with barefeet at the head. There was only one room for us, and for the second time in our trip we had to sleep together, which meant that we would not sleep much. It was delightfully cool and we got on after a fashion. This morning we were up betimes, breakfasted and ready by 7:30. We found the Berg Hotel set in a beautiful garden of big trees and flowers. Mountains were near and it seemed a nice place to stay awhile. But our carriage- this time a buckboard made in America - arrived and we started at about eight. In perhaps half an hour we cam to a small Rompong where we got two more rats, which pass for horses here, and we also took on quite a retinue. We concluded that we had a guard of honor like the Susuhunan. First there was the driver, then a grand retainer in blue trousers, a yellow and blue sarong, a bright green coat and a brown turban. He walked and carried a whip, and at the foot of each hill he whipped the forward horses or at least cracked the whip over their backs. Then there was another who blew the horn to clear the track, and another who ran ahead and pulled the horses out of the ditch once in awhile. Behind us came two saddled horses each with a boy, and we thought probably we should have to ride these before the end came to our trip. Lawang is 1700 and Nogjo Djadjar, where we -71- were bound is 4000. After a time the four horses were taken off and we thought the time had come to mount the riding horses, but the boys brought out two cows and hitched on to do the work of the four male horses, and they did it and did it better, for the hills were steep and rugged. Whether this is a demonstration of the superiority of sex or of animals, I am not sure. We arrived at 12:30, having spent 4 1/2 hrs. enroute - only 12 miles. The horses followed us and were put back on again and the cows retired so that we came in flying with our four rats, followed by the two saddle horses and our four coolies who carried the baggage. They tied it on a bamboo pole and one took each end. We each had two to carry our little packages. Then there were the retainers, so that in all we had an escort of twelve. How many expected fees we did not know, so we asked the hotel man to fix it up for us, and we shall find out how many when we pay our bill. The journey was fatiguing for the carriage was not comfortable, and the horses are all badly trained and exceedingly poor specimens, but it was most enjoyable. We passed through a native forest where great Waringen trees raised their beautiful heads over all else. There were palms and bananas and corn fields against a mountain background in the lowlands and tree ferns on the uplands with many many coffee trees in in bloom and in bearing, and here and there girls were gathering the berries. The forest had many interesting trees and flowers, some wild oranges among them, but perhaps the most interesting thing was a group or flock or a herd (who knows what is right) of very large black, long-tailed apes. There were many of them and they were playing tag with each other in lively fashion. -72- After lunch we went to our rooms. We are in one of the little houses by ourselves. Each has a verandah furnished in the usual way with a center table and chairs, and each found a huge bouquet of beautiful, sweet-smelling roses on our tables; a gift from the hotel. In the higher places of Java roses do beautifully. I took off my shoes and laid down falling asleep at once. I awoke, put on my shoes and hat and went to the Doctor's room thinking it was four o'clock, but I found that my watch was an hour fast - a usual condition. The Doctor was still asleep so I went out to take a walk by myself. Nowhere else could one do that at 3 p.m., but it was very comfortable. I walked through the neighboring dessa, or village, and on beyond I came to a half-grown Waringen or Banyan tree which was enclosed by a bamboo fence, and in one corner a little bamboo house with open sides in which were many pieces of tin on which were ashes, which were the remains of offerings made to the tree. It was another proof that the people are more Buddhist than Mohammedan. We have seen many babies in E.Java with lines drawn in white across their foreheads and we are sure that it is due to Hindu influence, but none of the Dutch seem to know. This morning a conversation with a man school teacher on vacation at Lawang revealed that he did not know the bread fruit tree which grows everywhere, and he had been in Java two years! How people can live in a country and know so little is a mystery. Well, I passed on and directly another group of the big black monkeys made so much noise I couldn't help but see them, and I stood a long time watching them. One very large one was sitting quite still in the top of a Waringen, while all the others were scampering from tree to tree. Directly I saw the reason. -73- She was nursing her baby. It began climbing around on the branches - no bigger than a kitten. The mother put out her two hands and brought it back to her breast. After awhile it jumped over her back and began to climb. Then came a wind that swayed the delicate branches mightily, and the mother turned around quickly and caught it in her two hands and again hugged it to her. Evidently she couldn't trust it in the wind. Then with the little one clinging to her she leaped to a lower tree and I lost her. There were two cinnamon colored apes with the black ones - also long-tailed, which I could not account for. We saw one cinnamon-colored one on the road to-day also. We are certainly in a beautiful and interesting part of Java. Apparently we are rid of mosquitoes, for there are no curtains on the bed. It is now very cool and I am shivering abit in spite of wool stockings and a wool under petticoat I have put on. It is a place where white people could live with real comfort. Monday, June 17. This morning at 7 we had breakfasted and were in sedan chairs, each of us carried by six men. We were bound for Rambort Mojo Waterfall. They told us the fall was nothing great, but that the road was beautiful. The whole distance was through coffee plantation. All the trees are loaded with fruit and some is now ripe that is scarlet. The tree is beautiful, the leaves being thick and glossy, the flowers white, the fruit first green, then red. Girls pick up the fruit from the ground which falls from the tree, and the little yards have bushels of these "mud falls" drying. It cannot be of such good quality as the ripened berries, but I have not yet learned what is done with it. At last we came to the end of the road and we had to walk along a narrow path out from the mountain -74- side a full mile at least. I thought snakes, but the barefooted boy ahead seemed to indicate safety. Our path overlooked a wide ravine full of magnificent trees and I agree with the Dr's remark that it was a beautiful paradise for monkeys, and there were many of our black apes jumping from limb to limb, and sometimes they came near us and are apparently not afraid. But we are told many efforts have been made to tame them. But whether little or big they refuse to eat and soon die. The "hunger strike" is not a new price to pay for liberty evidently. The fall itself is a pretty one, falling over a rock 300 ft. high, but the road leading to it was the attraction. Just before we arrived at the place where we had left our chairs, we emerged from the wood upon a hill. Directly opposite was another hill, covered with trees (coffee) and the only cleared space was a path in the middle of a little street not more than six feet wide, bordered by a bamboo fence covered with bright red folliage plants grown some five or six feet high. The street led from the bottom of the hill to the top and was lost in the beyond. At least a dozen brown boys of all ages and with bits of gay color in the few garments they wore were standing in groups looking at us. That picture was worth the journey, and I'd give a good bit to have it on canvas. On the way home we encountered a tropical rain, and as our boys had to stop for refreshments three times, we were gone six hours. They asked for a per sen which is Malay for backsheesh at the first road restaurant, and we gave each the equivalent of four American cents. Several persons (including a native nobleman educated as a doctor in Holland and now with the Doctor of the Susuhunan) have told us that the native can live well on that much a day. I doubt if it would buy clothes, but they need few. Our boys, I -75- fear, ate theirs all up before 1 p.m. in expectation of a further per sen which they got - 8 cts. to each. After our naps which we very much needed for our long walk and jolting in a Sedan chair was wearisome, we had intended going out, but there was a heavy downpour of rain, so there are to be no more adventures to-day. For the first time in Java we slept in beds which were not curtained in last night, and I had two blankets over me. All that was delightful, but the bed is like all in this country, a thin mattress over a woven bamboo matting, the combination being as hard as a stone floor. When I write my book on "the beds I have slept in," I shall devote a sarcastic chapter to those of Java. I am glad that we are nearly at an end with them. Whatever our future beds will be, they cannot be harder. Tuesday, June 18. This morning we thought we would try a horseback ride to see how we liked it, in order that if it went well, we could go to the Bromo that way, and as that was to be our big excursion, we wanted to do it in the easiest way. Our trip this morning was over a very pretty road, with the usual beautiful trees and coffee plantations, little bubbling brooks, and small waterfalls, and was as level as any road hereabouts, but some of the hills were so steep I had to hang on to my pummel hard to keep from going over the horse's head. I felt very tired at the end of our two hours ride and decided that I couldn't stand six hours in the saddle. In the afternoon at 4, we took a two hours walk with the hotel proprietor which was beautiful as one could imagine. It was over a path cut from the steep walls of an old extinct crater. The crater bottom was full of all manner of luxuriant vegetation, including many -76- bananas, while the sides were planted with coffee trees. It was a beauty spot long to be remembered. We have enjoyed our stay at the Berg Hotel Nongko Djadjar. The wife of the proprietor was once a patient of the Doctor, so I think we were treated extra fine. This afternoon with our tea came two dishes of strawberries. They could not be compared with those of the temperate zone, but strawberries in the tropics are a rarity and can only be found in the high altitudes. We paid our bills and made arrangements for departure early to-morrow. One could stay here for a long vacation and enjoy it all. Roses climb over all the pavilions and it looks like Cala. Wednesday, June 19. This morning we arose before 5 and 5 minutes before six were ready to start. The Dr. had decided that she would go on a horse and was in the saddle. I had chosen a sedan chair, which here is called a tondeau. I had objected to the cover which prevented me from seeing anything, so one was rigged up for me without one, and now I was in my seat and six men, mostly boys, were all in place at the ends of the three bamboo poles. We said our good-byes, left our per sens, and off we went. Three quarters of an hour distant we came to the Kletah Pass. It took about 20 minutes probably to go through it and certainly I never saw anything more beautiful. A river, now narrow, as the water is not high, has made a zigzag way through the mountains and these mountain sides were so profusely covered with trees, from which long vines were suspended here and there or had looped themselves from tree to tree. On the opposite side the leaves of an occasional tree fern looked like velvet. Its beauty is indescribable. We went on and on and now came to fertile hillsides covered with corn now in the cob (and much liked by the -77- natives, but the Dutch do not know how to use it). The road was bordered for miles on one side by a woven bamboo fence over which fuchsias were trained. They grew as if native, but I think they must have been imported. On the other side blossoming nasturtiums ran riot over a low bank. Finally the boys set down my chair. They had had one rest, a per sen and some breakfast. As these boys only know Malay, we could only depend upon their instructions having been understood. They now gesticulated to us and pointed to a narrow path, a detour from the road we had been traveling, as the way to the Bromo. They told us further that we must walk. I had already walked a good deal, but I started bravely, the Doctor behind. Directly the boy with the horse came up with me and informed me quite distinctly that the Bromo was a long way off, and that I would have to walk all the way. I know their tricks, however, so I walked on. Finally the boys with the bondeau came in sight and I insisted on getting in. Directly we came into a broader road and all was going well, when the boys set me down and they sat down on the roadside. One laid down and groaned a little. The others all pointed to their stomachs, but I suppose they meant hearts. One boy rubbed the other abit, and finally I walked on. The Doctor walked also a little way, but as the main direction was uphill, it was pretty hard on our hearts, so I urged her to ride. She was soon out of the sight and hearing ahead, and no tondeau boys came in sight from behind. We believed the boys were partly faking, although they were undoubtedly tired with their uphill route and their heavy lady, but now some anxious moments came to me. Suppose the boy was too sick to go one, the tondeau could not be borne by five, and what should I do miles from anywhere. I had left my two jackets in the chair and was now too wet to sit down safely without a wrap. -78- I thought of wild animals and snakes and other cheerful things,, and so plodded on. The Dr. waited for me and I caught up with her. She pointed to the cabin, high above us, the Moengal Pass. That was the point toward which we were making. I climbed up but was about "winded" and my heart was going like a trap hammer. A boy from the chair appeared now with my two jackets and the lunch. It was about eleven. We ate some sandwiches and sucked the juice of some Mandarms for drink and then sat down outside on the grass to overlook the Bromo. The sight is wonderful. An immense crater, probably miles wide, in the Tungger mountain, has a flat floor which is called the Sand Sea. In this immense flat bottom four smaller volcanic craters have reared their heads. Three are now inactive. The fourth is Bromo, which is still busy. There are times too when it saves its breath and gives forth a really dangerous eruption. The noises from the interior can be heard at all times. The usual way is to cross the sand sea and climb the crater, part of it by ladder, and take a look into the crater. This would take two hours longer, so we had decided beforehand not to do it. We could see the great clouds of pale yellow smoke pouring forth, and smell the sulphur, and that was sufficient with our state of physical feeling. To the right looking very near was the volcano Smeroe. It takes three days to reach it from the point where we sat, but it seemed two hours ought to be sufficient. It is the Smeroe which has an eruption every eight minutes. The smoke from its crater seemed blue in the distance. We sat there in the sun about a half hour, enjoying the marvelous sight, when a horse's head emerged from the narrow path leading to the little elevation where we sat. Another followed and they were mounted by two young Dutchmen. The Dr. told them our troubles. They had been to the crater and were now going back to Tosori. They -79- would pass over the road where my chair had been left. They agreed to tell the boys to bring the tondeau to me, and if the sick boy couldn't come, they would leave one of their coolies. That was a happy visit they paid us. We waited awhile and then descended to the road below. The tondeau was in sight and the sick boy seemed all right. They carried me along with considerably more spirit than at the beginning. We now passed between deeply descending hills which ran down to little streams at the bottom and all were covered with "European vegetables." These grow nowhere in the tropics, but at this elevation they do well, and supply not only the hotels of Java, but steamships as well. Probably some do grow in the Tropics. I saw corn, peas, beans, carrots, onions, potatoes, cauliflower, red and white cabbage, spinach, etc. The hills were so steep that it seemed a pea falling from its pod would roll to the bottom. It was a beautiful sight, those little patches of differing color. Our road was bordered again with fuchsias and nasturtiums. On the mountain I had seen the largest and most beautiful forgetmenots I ever saw. At last about a half hour behind the Doctor, I arrived. She appeared at the door of Villa Sylvia, one of the little cottages on pavilions. Our baggage, carried by two coolies, was already there. The six boys held out their hands for more per sen and I gave them what is considered a tremendous fee - 20 American cents each for a whole day's work and a hard one, even if they had played hooky on part of it, for they had to return to Nougko Djarjar. It was now about two. I was a sight to behold, literally covered with dust. I brushed up a bit and we went to lunch. Our cottage has two rooms, a nice porch before and one behind and has a little better -80- furniture than most. On the vernandah are two stone ladies with their feet turned up, Buddha fashion, fetched from some Hindu ruin. We call it the temple. I undressed and laid down. The bed was like all the rest - a lumpy board and I was so tired I ached all over, and I fairly groaned with distress. I slept abit and at 4:30 we eached managed to get some hot water - the first I have seen for months, and I had a good hot scrub, dressed myself and had a cup of tea. I was too tired to do anything at all but sigh and groan. Dinner was at 8:30 and as soon as that was over we went to bed. About noon to-day a white mist stole through the wood and made it very cold. We had clouds below us, but this was a curious sensation to see the cloud coming up or down, at least across the path. It remained cloudy all the afternoon and was very cold. This is 6000 ft. altitude and we had climbed 2000 ft. above Nougko Djarjar. The hotel is composed of little cottages as usual, but they are differently arranged and are more European in architecture. Roses abound everywhere. It makes me think I am in Cala. Our little cottage has a neat fruit yard, full of roses and the largest marguentes I ever saw. But we could get no view from her owing to the mist. We were too tired to walk either. Much of the distance to-day on the mountain was covered by a sort of pine tree - the Tjimara, and the path was covered with pine needles like one in Maine. Now that the experience is past, save for various aches and tired spots, the impression of the Bromo is that of awful depressing silence, not a bird, not a rustling tree nor a voice broke it. As far as the eye could range, and the atmosphere was clear then, there were mountains only with the two great smoking volcanoes dominating the view. Beneath this - 81- Java is a great cauldron with many chimneys letting out the smoke. Those who have looked into the crater of Bromo, tell of tongues of flame they can see. Thursday, June 20. I slept the sleep of the fatigued, although the bed was the worst ever. I thought I was "all right" this morning when I arose, and while dressing I thought I'd propose a walk to one of the Hindu villages, for several villages here - abouts have always remained true to their Hindu faith and the Mohammedans couldn't get them, but breakfast over, I felt as though I had gone through some great affair, such as a San Francisco earthquake. The cold mists cover this place afternoons at this time of year, but this morning the sun shines warm and nice, and early there were fine views. At my request we have decided to go to Poespo, some two hours distant on horseback and to stay there to-night, instead of having the whole distance to Sourabaija to do tomorrow. We are now 25 miles from Pasarorm where we get the railway. I think it will take me about a week to recover from the tours of the past three days. This morning as we were leaving the dining room, the Dr. was called to the telephone and found it was the proprietor of hotel at Nougka Djakjar, who wanted to know the truth about the coolies. They had told all sorts of lies, but the crowning one was that the two young men who had given them the message from me, had show a revolver and told them if they didn't go on and behave right they would shoot them! But perhaps they did, for the Prop. of Nongko told us he had warned them that he would cut their heads off if they didn't do it right! -82- This morning the Dr. of the Sanatorium, at Dr. J's request, called. He knew her Dr. brother. He told Dr. J. about the people of the vicinity. They have no mosque church or temple, no priest, but their religion is something like Hinduism. Once a year they have a religious festival and all the men, women and children go to the Bromo. The white people go too in order not to offend. Before the Dutch came, they used to throw an old woman or two and a few children into the boiling lava as a peace offering to the quarrelsome gods of the Bromo. But when the Dutch stopped that, they began offering goats, later they adopted the custom now in vogue in Mecca, they do not throw the live goat into the molten center, but kill them beforehand and throw them in a nice safe place where poor people can get them and take them away. The people who offer the goat do not eat it, but they may eat some one else's goat. Everyone makes some sacrifice to the angry gods, rice, flowers, fruit, etc. The rest of the year they keep away. It is possible that our coolies got abit afraid of their job. These people are really Heathen. At my most urgent request, we came to Poespo this afternoon. Otherwise we must come here on horseback in the morning and from here drive on to the train, making a trip of 25 miles to reach the train. So at 3 o'clock we mounted our ponies and rode down the mountain eight miles. It was another beautiful road and we were entertained by plenty of long-tailed black monkeys capering about in the big trees. The sun went under a cloud, so it was not hot and as we left the mists at Tosori, it was enjoyable. At Poespo we were the only guests at the small hotel. -83- Friday. We were off this morning at 7. We had to drive in a small two-wheeled cart, and I was glad we did not have our horseback ride to do. I thought yesterday it was probably the last horseback ride I should ever take and sincerely hope I never meet one of these carts again. One of our rats tried to run away and scared us abit for we didn't know what he would run into. The result was that we arrived an hour too soon. It was a hot wait and a hot three hours in the train. We arrived in time for the one o'clock lunch, after which we got up our baggage left in storage and undressed - the Dr. to sleep and I to read some mail I found waiting. The Mandy felt as good in this hot place as the hot bath at Tosori. At five-thirty I repaired to the steamship office, (in the hotel) to inquire where our steamer was. We are off on a 5 a.m. train to-morrow for Samarang, and hoped to get aboard in the afternoon. Alas, she will not arrive until Monday morning, and does not sail until Tuesday morning - three days in that hot place with nothing to do! O, Lord! how I hate that. Saturday, June 22. We arose at 4 this morning and arrived in Samarang, Hotel du Pavillion at 12:30 without other incident except the heat. We drove at once to the steamship office where we got our tickets and paid 135 F. or $54.00 to Hongkong via Maccassor. We were informed that it might be four days before we sail. After lunch we went to bed. In my nightgown and kimona, and slippered but stockingless feet, in true Dutch India fashion, I marched forth to the mandy, meeting about sixteen men enroute. I am still lame in my back and in my left hand which I used to cling to the pummel of the saddle to keep from sliding over the horse's head when we went down hill, and from going over his tail when we went uphill. Since ten I have written to Hungary -84- and H.T.U. had dinner at 7 in order that the Dr. might go to the theater (Dutch), and now I am so sleepy that I must get inside my little tent and try to get a few winks. Sunday, June 23, Hotel du Pavillion. I wrote all day and did not go out. The day was without incident. Monday, June 24. I wrote all the morning and in the afternoon we drove for a couple of hours, doing some errands. Later, I packed as we had word that we should be on our ship at 11 to-morrow. We had the sharpest thunderstorm in the evening that we had experienced anywhere. Tuesday, June 25. At 11 or before, we were at the harbor and there we met the Chief of Police, who is the husband of the Dr.'s niece. When we arrived in Batavia all passengers had to file before certain officers of the Government who came on board for the purpose and those who could prove Dutch citizenship, could go on after getting a permit, but all strangers had to pay 25 gulden $10.00 to get a landing permit. This paper informed the holder that he must appear before certain officers and give an account of himself. This I did, explaining my mission, confessing my age, giving a history of my family tree, and my general character and intention. I also added without request my opinion of the Dutch government for subjecting respectable globe trotters to such Russianized methods. The passport I received in exchange for the permit I had paid for on board the VanNoort, was never asked for nor shown during the entire trip. After some inquiries as to how and where I should get my money back, it had been arranged that it should be paid me at the harbor. Just for mischief I demanded gold. I told them I couldn't use paper nor silver, and either would put a loss upon me as I was now leaving the country. -85- This they acknowledged, but they had no gold. I finally accepted silver. All Dutch java has hated this law which was aimed at the Chinese, and which will be abolished directly as orders have already been received to enforce it no more. All laws of the Dutch Indies are made in Holland. When my money was paid we entered a nice little steam launch provided by the company and were carried out to the Tjimanork. By this time it was ripping hot. The ship is new, on her fifth trip. It is a freight ship with accommodations for third class passengers and for 12 first class. A sort of tower is built on the upper deck. On the first floor is the dining room with accommodations for 16 persons. On each side are three rooms arranged for two. But as we are the only first class passengers, we each have a room on the breezy side. The two beds are not one above the other, but both lower berths. There is a large window, a clothes closet, an electric fan and in all it is a beautiful fine room. Above this dining room is the second story where the Dutch officers have their rooms and the front is the Captain's bridge. We have a W.C. and a little bath room, which I think was never used before. We found a delightful breeze and made ourselves comfortable in a shady corner of the deck with our books, and at 12:30 were called to lunch. The Captain who speaks English fluently, the head engineer who speaks it a little and the 1st Officer who speaks it not at all, were our table m I went to bed and read, took a mandy, dressed and between reading and walking about to see the ship loading the time passed until dinner. We are loaded heavily with bags and baskets of sugar - all sugar just now. Eleven other ships were in the harbor being loaded at -86- the same time. Java almost entirely supplies British India, China and Japan, and even sends it to America. We have seen the sugar in all its stages. The fields are prepared so that they look like a soldiers cemetery like this: The water runs in the cuts between the "graves" and on top the sugar cane is transplanted after it has been sowed and partly grown elsewhere. They say it gets more sweet in the sap in certain localities. I believe it is altitude and that it gets sweeter on a lower level. When it is ready for the mill, there is a great festival, and all sorts of ceremonies are gone through Hindu fashion in expectation of a great harvest. There are games and processions and I know not what. Then the mills begin to grind and all over Eastern Java, the smell of boiling sugar fills the air. Often we smelled it when we couldn't see it. Wednesday, June 26. Last night we sailed at ten. I was already in bed and asleep and did not know that we were moving, so steady is our boat. We had a terrific thunder storm at midnight, which made my hair stand on end, but when the Captain inquired how I passed the night, I told him truthfully that I found my bed the best I had had in Java, and that I had slept well. Java is one of the most prosperous and wealthy countries in the world. Every acre produces and produces much. Labor and water are plenty and with Dutch thrift to direct, wonderful results have been achieved. Its beautiful mountains and valleys are covered with verdure, its majestic trees, its wonderful fruits, its interesting effeminate lazy people, its little girls with dress like their mothers and their hair done in a pug in the back, will long make a clear picture in my mind. Its smoking volcanoes, and the memory of -87- Krakatan, which blew its head off, and formed a harbor 1000 ft. deep where the Island had been before, make one feel that there is an element of risk in living there. The high and comparatively cool interior give opportunity to recruit from the heat of its coast cities, and I must say that all the Dutch look healthy and active, whereas in British India or Ceylon, I saw no Englishman who looked either. Java deserves the title "The Garden of the East," "The Pearl of the Insulindi" the most beautiful land in the world. On the other hand, its execrable beds screened by muslin through which no breath of air can pass; the fact that the Dutch do not like electric fans and there are none; go far to make travel in Java uncomfortable. I asked the Chief of Police yesterday a question, and his answer corroborated the statements I had heard. Java has thousands of "half castes." The father have been mainly Dutch or Chinese. When the Chinaman is father, little of Malay appears in the child of either sex. It is all Chinese. It is clever along the lines of Chinese cleverness, and its always superior to the Malay. When the Dutchman is father, the children are distinctly Malay and even to the 3rd and 4th generation are easily detected. They are often inferior to the Malay, often his equal, and rarely his superior. They always seem to inherit the qualities of the mother. This is certainly an astonishing example in the study of heredity. The Tjimanork lives up to the reputation of all Dutch ships, clean, thoroughly scrubbed, plenty of good food, polite attention. -88- The uses to which I have seen the three chief native products of Java and Sumatra put. Bamboo 1. Whole houses are framed with it. 2. Gates of elaborate construction. 3. Sheath used as dustpan or coal hod. 4. Milk can. Water carrier and sugar sap carrier. 5. Water pipe to carry water long distance. 6. Sewer pipe. 7. Letter carrier or betel leaf carrier when small and carved. 8. Cane. 9. Support to Banyan roots. 10. Pots for house plants. 11. Braided into sides for houses. 12. Covers for wagons. 13. Bed Springs. 14. Spouts inserted in pails, two being carried by one man who waters the street. 15. Coarse baskets as coal beds, fruit baskets in which to deliver fruit when sold (no value), big baskets for all kids of produce. 16. Braided fans to fan fires. 17. Braided rugs upon which all Asia sleeps. 18 . Braided cone-shaped baskets for steaming rice. 19. Tl carry Sedan chair or hammock. Banana 1. Sold in every passar and always always served in hotels 3 times a day. 2. Fried, with or without a batter, is served with the reis tafel and in every passar. Cocoanut oil is the fat used. 3. The leaves are kept on hand by every passar merchant and every conveivable article is wrapped in the leaf & pinned with a thorn. The food sold is always wrapped in these neat packages. 4. Plates. 5. Fans. 6. Parasols, to keep off the sun, & umbrellas to keep off the rain. Cocopalm 1. Cocoanuts used green for drink, sold at trains and passars. 2. Ripe as food, grated and whole. 3. Sugar. 4. Milk as sauce for rice cakes. 5. Sheath as dustpans. 6. With handles, used to pour water on streets. 7. Wood used for house frames. 8. Leaves braided for sides of cheap houses. Not as good as bamboo. 9. Braided covers for young plants. 10. Copra- used to make soap and oil- an exceedingly valuable export from Africa and S. Asia. 11. Oil used in all cooking where we use butter or lard. 12. Oil for burning in tumblers or saucers. Lights all temples. 13. Split leaves tied together form brooms and mosquito whips. 14. Fibre around the cocoanut and at base of leaves pounded by Diaks and probably by all the people of the Archipelago into cloth (previous to weaving). 14. Fibre tied around fruits to keep birds off. 15. Fibre makes mattresses. 16. Cocoanut shell makes bowl for drinking. When Asia has a want, it turns to the Bamboo, the Banana and Cocoanut, and it is supplied. -89- Saturday, June 29. We sailed away from Java on the blue Java sea, and her coast lined with the ever beautiful palms and bananas, with great mountains looking like ghosts behind their white cloudy curtains as a background looked picturesquely beautiful so long as we could see it. Two days later we anchored off Macassar some time in the night and came up to a good wharf at six in the morning. When I looked out of my window, there was a big bunch of coolies waiting on to begin on the cargo, and behind them was a row of red tiled roofs, and behind that the pink sky of a peaceful sunrise. By seven we were both dressed and went out for an hour's walk. We walked the main thoroughfare which runs parallel with the shore. Here we saw another new tribe of natives - the Macassars. Their expression is different, and when massed together they all seem to resemble each other, but if one should get mixed up with Javanese, Sumatrese, or even Hindus, I should not know the difference, provided he were dressed the same. On the coast unfortunately there is so much mixed blood, it is difficult to say how a people really look. The men wear long hair, the handkerchief worn as a turban, the sarong, shirts or coats. The sarongs are chiefly from Holland apparently, as they are largely plaid, and red predominates, as indigo does in Java. Women here are not numerously seen, and they wear two sarongs sewed together in order to draw it over their heads. The Mohammedans have a better hold on this people, and the dress approaches more closely that prescribed by the orthodox than in other Indies, and they have banished the women from passar and little shops and street restaurants, and brave man has taken up his burden cheerfully, and was seen cooking and feeding -90- other men at the little restaurants in order that the weaker sex might be kept in the sphere ordained for it by God and Mohammet his true prophet. I suspect, however, that the cooked rice, neatly wrapped in uniform sized packages in banana leaves or small braided baskets, which throughout the east forms the basis of every meal, has been prepared behind the scenes by women, the chief difference being that the man sells it and keeps the pennies. We walked through the Chinese quarter, the street lined on both sides by little Tokos filled by articles used by natives. It is rare to see children at play and especially with toys. They usually sit and stare, and seem to have no more life or ingenuity than a puppy or kitten. It was notable in consequence, when we came upon a little five year old Chinese boy playing with a toy which might awaken envy in a "millionaire baby." He had a tiny wagon built of playing cards. It was the length and width of one car, and the wheels were cut from other cards. A tiny brown bird, no bigger than a canary, was hitched to it by a little harness and the boy whipped it with a long bit of grass to make it run about, which it did as bravely as a Javanese horse. When it was likely to get under foot, its little master simply caught up the birdie, wagon and all, and it didn't seem to mind. We breakfasted on the boat at 8:30 and at nine were out again. A carriage previously engaged awaited us. We drove to the home of Mr. and Mrs. Ferguson, a niece of the Dr. and her Charlie's sister. We found them all at home. The husband had a responsible position as inspector of the finances of the various ports and just happened to be home. He spoke -91- English well, and the wife very little. There was a three months old blue-eyed baby, which I had difficulty not to run away with. Mr. and Mrs. F. went with us and we drove over smooth roads shaded by tall overhanging trees to Gowa. Here was, not long ago, a kingdom. The King requested to build a good road from his village into Macassar, but he stoutly refused. England would have compelled him at the point of the bayonet. But the Netherlands know tricks worth two of war. The Governor General residing at Batavia, sent to the Governor of Celebes residing at Macassar, a gift of beautiful carriage - I suppose resembling those of Barnum's show. When word was sent to His Majesty that the carriage was at hand, he came to see it, and straightway he got out his men and the road was built in a jiffy in order that he might ride up and down on it in his gift, which I believe was reputed to have come from the queen. Peace and comfort reigned for a few years, but the old fellow being full of years, came to his natural end. A young son came to the throne, but he objected to one part of his father's inheritance- his father's harem. These Macassars of Gowa had no religion but their own, and so far as the Dutch know had never heard of the Hindu suttee. But surely, mother wit has always told man that polygamy was good - for man - and that when the man was no more, there was no further use for his wives. So as many as the young king's conscience allowed were burned with t\his father's corpse, and every day another would breathe her last, obviously having pined away of a broken heart. But the watchful Dutch did not approve of the sudden decrease of colonial population in this manner. To be sure most of those living in the Colonies are polygamists, but they do it in -92- a nice up-to-date, refined and civilized manner, so they commanded King No.2 to "come off." King Gowa replied that he guessed he would kill as many useless old women as he blankety- blank pleased. So there was war. They say women are at the bottom of all trouble, and here surely they were, women dead and women alive. It was a good excuse to give the world, and only difference between old time war and modern is that men went to war when they felt like it in the old days and never minded hunting up an excuse, now an excuse to hand around to the gullible is considered absolutely necessary. So, although the Dutch had stood ready for a century to gobble up this and every other kingdom - when the time came, they kept that to themselves. Of course a war of trained men against untrained ones, was of short duration, and the King when the little army surrendered was missing. Three days, more or less later, this king was found dead in a dry run, from a wound. So, they say, he was mortally wounded in battle and crawled away and died. Those who like may believe. Having disposed of the King and captured his army, the thrifty Dutch laid up his treasury house, but not a doubleji could they find. So they moved the house of the ex- and departed treasure to Macassar and made a museum of it (which I regret is now closed and its contents en route to Batavia. Some time after an old fellow married a young girl with a brave display of wealth and the bride was bedecked with many of the lost royal jewels. The man had been the old King or Sultan's Harbor Master. (To be sure there was no harbor to the Kingdom of Gowa, nor water of any kind, but the Dutch had a Harbor Master at Macassar, so he had one). The tyrannous Dutch interrupted the sweets of the honeymoon, relieved the bride of her jewels and clapped the loving -93- groom into jail. There he still languishes while the patient Dutch wait for him to confess and tell them where the rest of the spoil is with which they must pay for the war which the ill-behavior of the Macassars compelled them to undertake, and surely any Harbor Master, with or without a harbor, ought to see that, an army should be paid for killing a king and confiscating a kingdom, and if, the king being dead, his subjects do not furnish the means, who in God's mercy shall? So we gaily drove over the beautiful road bought by the gift of a carriage, the Doctor chatting Dutch with her niece and nephew-in-law and I looking at the scenery. Directly we came to the palace - the palace which had witnessed so many funerals of queens, and the untimely uncrowning of the late departed king. It was a square building, the lower story of stone. A balcony ran around the upper story and the roof was of corrugated iron. His family still lives there. While we stared at this visible evidence of former royalty, the young princes and princesses clambered over the balcony rail and stared back at us to the number of about ten. His Majesty was still a young man at the time of his lamented death, but he had been industrious. The princes were glad in the garb they wore when they came from their mother's womb, the princesses were covered in spots by dirty sarongs. A few other smaller buildings where formerly his retainers lived were in the same enclosure, and the whole was set down in as beautiful a spot as imagination could paint. Take a rose and bit of maiden hair. Twist them this way and that - each new twist seems prettier than any which went before. So with the cocopalm, the bamboo, and the banana, group them how you will with greengrass under them and the blue sky over them, and they seem God's most -94- beautiful creation. We dropped the Fergusons at their door and drove back to our Tjimanock for lunch. We rested until five, when Mr. and Mrs. F. came for us and we took a drive. Through many streets we drove, cathedral aisled by overhanging trees. One was lined by canary trees, the leaves were like those of the Banyan, but the roots like those of the rubber tree which might be described as a ribbon turned on edge and rising out of the ground, make a peculiar-looking trunk. We dined with the Fergusons, and then they brought us back to the ship. I ransacked the town for postals and photos. See Photos No. . I could get nothing satisfactory. See postals No. . My inability to get photos has quite distressed me. The native houses of ceLebes are distinctly different from any I have seen, but no photo or postal could be had. I append one cut from my guide book. They are raised on tall piles to escape the dampness, built of bamboo, variously braided or woven, or arranged for decorative effect, windows closed by rods looking like a jail in front and rear, wood carving crude compared with that of the Menangkabou over the windows and in gables. They are rather picturesque, but so insecurely built that most of them seem about to topple over. [Photo] -95- This morning the Fergusons came for us. The Dr. wanted to go to the cemetery where her favorite brother, Charlie's father (and Mrs. F.) lies buried. I wanted to call on the Governor and ask him about Tanette where there is a woman queen, and where it is matriarchate. It is the last little kingdom left with a ruling head. The Dutch will "ketch her if she don't watch out", and even if she does, they'll have her. We found him ill and unable to receive any one and so I didn't try. I also wanted to buy something in Celebes, but there was nothing in Macassar, although the women weave, and do all sorts of things, but they not do it for sale. So, I was disappointed in our little 1-1/2 days stay. We saw nothing very characteristic. The Island looked like Java and Sumatra. The port is important, and four ships were loading during our stay. Our cargo taken there was mainly ratan, a sort of Rush which comes from the Moluccas and goes to China and Japana, where it is made into furniture, matting, etc. All furniture used in the Dutch Indies is of this kind and most comfortable it is. Every verandah has at least one table with marble top, the base of ratan, surrounded by four chairs, each provided with a footstool. There is sure to be a coat hanger of some kind and several boxes lined with zinc, in which plants are growing. Every Dutch house has this sort of furniture and there is little variety. We also had bags of tripang a dried sea worm which the Chinese eat. Nutmegs, cloves, dried fish, tortoises, sandal wood, wax, gutta percha, etc. go from this port, much coming from the Moluccas. At noon sharp we lifted our anchor and sailed away over the bluest of blue seas between two yellow sand banks which it seems is a path rarely used, but the Captain -96- and Pilot agreed to try it and succeeded, and thus saved a half hour. The Macassars are expert boatmen and built a little prau with a sharp upturned point and sail it fearlessly with an oblong sail. As I could not find a photo, I'll just draw one. [*Sketch*] When seen at a distance they look like this, or like so many butterflies settling down to rest. As we got out to sea we saw the rocky and lofty mountains in the background veiled by white mist. Celebes is, by those who believe a continent was broken up here and big chunks went down, the dividing point, as its flora and fauna on the West are like those of India and the Islands which lie between, on the East they favor Australia and the Islands on that side. There are marsupials there and no apes. Before I forget it, I want to record a telling incident. There is now a famine in China, and the loving papas who have been keeping wives of loving sons doing business in Java, are shipping these dear wives to their affectionate husbands in order to have one mouth less to fill. The liege lords are not overjoyed because most of them have Malay wives as well, and these have felt and know how to use them trotting around to wait on their masters, but that has nothing to do with my tale. Three of these women were waiting in the dock waiting room just as we were leaving Samarang. I believe it was the first little feet I have seen. Their shoes, not more than four inches long, had very high heels and the toes seemed to come down in the front to make another heel as it were. They could only walk by taking hold of -97- something. Of course we stared, and the first thing I saw was a little girl, seven or eight, whose feet were normal. But the telling thing was that some twenty intelligent young Chinese with cues gone, who had always lived in Java, were also there. At a distance and respectfully each stood as if nailed to the spot where his eye first caught sight of them and eyes were reveled on those poor little feet. The women of Java (Chinese) have normal feet. I think these young men had not seen many of the orthodox feet from the Celestial Kingdom. Every face, despite its usual impassivity, seemed to say, "Poor fool." Those who were fixed ready to meet the standard of the market 25 years ago, are now to be cast aside like any other shop worn commodity of last year's fashion, and the new woman with feet is at present ruling the marriage market. It is a bit hard on the woman of the pegs, but since when has progress stopped to see how her strides onward were going to effect any woman? To-morrow we shall get a wee peep at Borneo, and as unsatisfactory a one as we have had of Celebes. Monday July 1st. We arrived yesterday off Balikpapan about four, but the water was too shallow to go up to the wharf, and as the people with cargo to ship would not work on Sunday, we waited out in harbor until this morning. There was an exquisite sunset last night. The sky had been cloudy all the afternoon, and the clouds did not lift to show the sun at all, but the whole sky turned brilliant crimson where the sun was supposed to be, and this was reflected on the water in the same color. It was unique and beautiful, and this morning we had a sunrise exactly like it. Borneo as we see it had some -98- big rolling mountains in the background, probably far away, and sandy hills all the way to the coast. These are overgrown with trees which no one knew the name of. Here is a station solely for the purpose of shipping. About 50 miles away is petroleum. The crude product is brought here in small boats, and candles and lubricating oil is manufactured here. The residences, factories and oil tanks string along the coast for a long distance, the land being too hilly to go inland. It made a charming picture when the lights here on last night as there was a full moon, and the water is like a millpond, so there were long reflections in the water. This morning we breakfasted early and the good Captain took us ashore in a little rowboat. He tried to show us the candle factory, where first the paraffin e is made, but it is a "secret process" and against orders to show anything. The young Dutchman who let us take a look at the engine, and the piles of paraffine cakes, and the boxes of candles, said they were afraid the Standard Oil might come and set up opposition! Bless their innocent souls - they might have shown us all they had, and wouldn't have known a secret when we saw it. At any rate, I suspect the Standard Oil could tell them secrets worth a half dozen of theirs. Well, we did not see much. I stole a red candle and carried it around brazenly, and when I saw how well it worked, I was sorry I had not stolen a box full! As there was nothing else to see, I wanted to go on the beach and hunt for shells, and alas there was no beach unless I should walk for 1 1/2 hours. That I couldn't do, so we came back to the boat and at 9:30 had done Borneo. I had hoped that we might at least see some Dyaks who are the main native people, but they are too lazy and too independent to work. Why should they work when nature works for them? -99- There were Hindus to act as coolies, and natives from Banjarmasin, the Dutch capital of Borneo, who served as other workmen, and there were some women. 10,000 candles are turned out every day and go mainly to China and Japan. The Dyaks are "head hunters." No man can get married or get any promotion until he has taken off a few heads. He gets these from some other tribe. When a woman is to have a baby, her loving husband goes and cuts off a nice head for her and brings it as a gift. The reason is sort of religious. The Dyaks think the soul of the dead whose head they get, acts as a protector to the head hunter or to the marriage, or the unborn child. So they clean the skull and hang it up in a handy place, and every day decorate it with flowers, and when there is a festival they offer it a bit of each dainty. Well, I am disappointed not to see one of those fellows. Then Borneo is the home of our great and revered ancestor - the ourangotang. They are too wild to come so near humans, so of course we saw none of them. The Dr. sent word to a nephew, who she discovered was here, and he got to the ship almost as soon as we did. He is a handsome boy of 21, but O what a hole to thrust a nice boy in. There are so many crocodiles in the water they cannot go swimming, and so many poison snakes in the primeval forest which comes close to the shore, that they cannot walk there. There is nothing to do but to work in a hot, humid, malarial enervating climate. Poor boy! As we could have no adventures, I just made up one and here it is: -100- Experience at Balikpapan on July 1, 1912. When I was in Borneo, I saw a tree An Orangotang as sure as could be O untamed ancestor! What a horrid plight And I shivered and shook and grew cold at the sight. But he was old and|wrinkled and wise The wisdom I saw stick out from his eyes. So I lifted my face with the sweetest of smiles And xx beckoned I him with the cunniest wiles, Then he grinned a grin of fiendish glee And slid down the tree and sat by me. O, Uncle Orang, I asked in accents low Vote the she Ourangs in Borneo? Then his eye grew cold and he cried boo boo Alas, a lack, my niece, the shes, they do. In a contest of coconuts, or any old scrap, In a race up a tree with a handicap Madam Orang, with a little otang at her breast, Is ever and always, far and away the best. So when an election was held awhile back The Shes put a queen on the throne and a king on the rack. Now the sheets boss us and cuff us and give us no peace, We’re humbled to earth and yet see no release. With a start and a bound he was gone - up a tree From a branch fare above he peered down at me. And tremblingly whispered that he dared not delay For Madame Ourang was listening just over the way, And you see, said he, with a saddened wail, “The female of the species is deadlier than the male.” With a joyful sigh and a happy heart, I sailed away to another mart, And for she ourangs are here on the know, And leave nothing to be done in Borneo. Transcribed and reviewed by volunteers participating in the By The People project at crowd.loc.gov.