Catt, Carrie Chapman Diaries Sep 28-Oct.31, 1912 Corea, Japan Honolulu - Diary of Carrie Chapman-Catt- Corea, Japan, Honolulu. (Part-XIII) - Sept. 28th. to Oct. 31st. 1912 - INDEX Pages Chiyo Maru S.S. 35 Chosen (or Senel) Corea 1 to 13 Corea 1 to 17 Honolulu 40 Japan 18 to 35 (Comments on Japan) 38 Kamakura 33 Kobe 24 Miyajima 18 Miyanoshita 33 Mt. Fuji 34 Nikko 30 Senel 1 to 13 Shinienoseka 18 Shinto Temple, Miyajima 18 Tokyo 28, 30, 31, 32, 34. Yokohama 27, 33, 34, 35, 36. Yoshiwara 32 KOREA. Friday, Oct. 4, 1912. On Sept. 28th, we travelled all day comfortably from Mukden, where we bade adieu to Manchuria, to [*Senel*] Seoul, the Capital of Korea as the world has long known that country. To the Natives who have occupied the land since man trod upon the soil, it has been known as Chosen (with s soft) the Land of Morning Calm. When, two years ago this country was annexed by Japan, it was stipulated in the treaty, that the territory was hereafter to be known to the world by that name. We arrived at about 8:30 after having dined on the train. A splendid trained hotel runner from the "Sontag" took charge of us and landed our baggage in short order in the hotel, while we had a wierd ride in a rickshaw lighted by a long paper lantern in red and white, and announcing the name of the hotel. It was a pretty sight for every pedestrian, or horseman, or rickshaw had some kind of a paper lantern. We were comfortably cared for, with a bathroom handy. We had to room together however. On Sunday morning, I chanced to wrap at the wrong room door, looking for Mrs. McVey, and so met a stray American woman from Boston, Miss C.C. Norris, who seemed to be a leader in mental healing. Discovering that she was alone, I, by consent of the others, asked her to join us for the day. We took a guide from the hotel and started forth. We visited the palace where the Emperor lived before Japan put him out of business. It was made like a temple with many small buildings, tiled and with corners mounted with the usual quaint little animals in -2- faience, all set in big grounds and separated by courts. There was a fine view from one point, and it was a pleasing but not novel experience. From there we rode through the length of the town to another palace, now transformed into a Chosen Museum by the Japs. A modern building occupies a hill wherein the most valuable things are. These have been taken from old graves chiefly. There are some fine old gods and guards in brass and stone, and in time it will be a valuable museum. It is now worth while, but it was fatiguing as we had to go from building to building. We were not prepared, either, for the change from Peking and Mukden cold to 85 deg. heat which we found in S[enel]ouel. We returned to the hotel (late) for our lunch, rested and very short time and at four started out again. We visited a park on a hilltop to which we had to climb. We were rewarded by a magnificent view over the City and country. We visited another park where there were some fine stone carvings, and in spite of the fact that it was Sunday, we spent the rest of the time shopping. The only places open were those kept by natives. We possessed ourselves of some small trifles, just for souvenirs, and went back for dinner. Before we had finished it, our guide came to tell us that if we would see a procession we had planned to see, we must come at once. Off we started in our lantern illuminated rickshaws. The thing we wanted to see was the return procession of a funeral. The day before the brother of the ex-emperor was buried. A wonderful procession went with his body to the imperial cemetery, some 15 miles away. Europeans living there thought the procession a sort of patriotic demonstration because of opposition to Japaneses control, for old costumes were worn and old customs followed as they had not been for some years. In former -3- times, when a Mongol Emperor was buried in any of these countries, several coffins were carried so as to scare away or rather confuse the spirits who might interfere with peaceful interment. They could not tell which one contained the dead, nor which grave contained the right coffin.This time they carried only two coffins and a "right smart" spirit might guess right, since the real one was carried by 24 men and the empty one by four. Before the coffin went those who scattered sham money and real food to appease the spirits; while others rang bells and beat tom-toms to scare them away. The procession tacked from one side of the street to the other also to further bewilder the spirits. Well, we did not see that procession, but some portion of it would return in order and we were for seeing that. We came to a place where some gentlemen in European dress were waiting, and we were invited to come into a large cleared space surrounded by canvas walls and lighted by lanterns. Here about 20 men were waiting. They gave us chairs which was a tremendous favor, for we had to wait at least 1-1/2 hours. Then came a long double line of men carrying red gauze lanterns, and when these had passed there came a group of donkeys, each carrying a wailing woman in white. They were all doing their duty as they passed and if they had wailed all of the two days as devotedly, I can only say that they earned all they would be paid. Then came another double line of men carrying red and white lanterns, and these marched into our open space. Behind them came a closed palanquin carried by about 8 men, and accompanied by as many white robed women wailing their level best. Within, a piece of paper containing the name of the dead man, was placed, so his spirit occupied the chair. Behind - 4 - this came a sedan chair covered with an immense mourning hat and within was the man's son. He got out and from behind the canvas walls fresh wailers who had been waiting set up the most dismal howl human ear ever heard. Meanwhile, the wailing men, who were all high in position in Chosen, expressed their condolences in wails as well. To these the poor man made repeated obeisances. Every one in Chosen wears white, but for mourning there seems to be more of it and this son who appeared not to be young, wore a white hat as well as being well swaddled in white. They allowed the poor wretch to go after awhile, and the procession marched on. There must have been between 500 and 1000 men with lanterns. The streets were lighted and lined with quiet people waiting. We concluded to go to the theater, and we passed and repassed, and when we found the theater was over for the evening, we met the procession. The wailers were still wailing. How mourners who really mourn can endure two whole days of such conduct, I cannot make out. It was a curious and wierd sight. We returned to the hotel and after eating the fruit and nuts we had not had time for, we packed our things and made ready to leave very early in the morning. We all wanted to stay longer, but our stay in Japan was to be so short that we felt we must hurry on. - 5 - Photo [*Photo caption: Harvest of Wheat [Japanese character] [Japanese character] ([Japanese characters])*] Photo [*Photo caption: Domestic fowl vendor. [Japanese character] [Japanese character] ([Japanese characters])* This shows costume of average Corean man. Notice hat. - 6 - Photo [*Photo caption: A Laborer. [Characters] ([Characters])*] These long slender pipes are used all over China, Manchuria, & Chosen. Photo [*Photo caption: The celebration of a birth. [Characters] ([Characters])*] - 7 - Photo [*Photo caption: On the way of marriage. [*Wedding Procession*] [Characters] ([Characters])*] Photo [*Photo caption: House and Children. [Characters] ([Characters])*] - 8 - The day before our arrival in Senel [*Seoul*], there was a more not- able event than the funeral of the Ex-Emperor's brother. This was the world renouned trial of 123 men for conspiracy to murder the Governor-General. All the world must be talking about it, and they will talk more. Several mission workers were in Senel to attend it and the missionaries were there. Among those arrested was Baron Yun who, it seems, is the most prominent native Christian. All the others were Christians too. They were arrested nearly a year ago upon suspicion, and all except the Baron testify to the most horrible middle centuries torture. They had been burned, racked, stretched, hung, etc. and one had had his wrist broken: One or two had died, 117 of these men were convicted and sentenced from 5 to 10 years im- prisonment, the Baron getting 10 years. There was no testimony, ex- cept their own confessions which had been wrung from them by torture. At the trial, all renounced the confession but that was of no value. Several could prove an alibi, but that was not permitted. In the beginning some missionaries were charged with conspiracy also; they say that Japan did not dare try them. They feel that it is a direct stab at Christianity and is done to frighten further converts. There will be an appeal. Just now, Japan is being blacklisted for having employed torture, denied a fair trial with fair testimony, and with the appearances of persecuting Christians. The missionaries are terribly distressed, and as every one in Chosen has been indirectly involved in Japan's charges, they feel that their honor has been strained, and especially as the home papers have not unanimously stood by them. We had no time to see any missionaries, but we met Mr. and Mrs. Benry again, and Mr. Pinsen and wife, Secy of the M.E. South Mission Association. They had been in attendance, and had done - 9 - nothing else. Here in Japan the editorials in the papers make me think that the motives are merely the usual jealousy which the overlord feels concerning the display of symptoms of dis- content which the unwilling auxiliary very naturally exhibits. Chosen likes her own liberty and independence, but Japan prefers that she should not have it. She fears an uprising and when the Governor-General was assassinated, she concluded that it was the beginning of it. She thinks the foreigners are supporting the natives and all this trouble has grown out of it. It is no worse than most of our Western nations have done, but it is decidedly tough on 105 men, who are undoubtedly innocent, and who now must accept penal servitude unless a higher court releases them. Photo [*Carrier of timber. [Characters] ([Characters])*] - 10 - Photo [*Photo caption: Sawyers [Characters] ([Characters])*] Photo (left-side) [Left photo caption: Husband and Wife [Characters] ([Characters])*] Notice man's hat. Bride and Groom. Photo (right-side) [Right photo caption: The Kee san [Characters] ([Characters])*] Correct costume of young lady. - 11 - Our one day in Chosen was more valuable than my record seems, for I had read, Griff's "Corea, the Hermit Nation," a big book. Here the national emblem which is seen everywhere and which was on their flag when they had one, is the old sign of earl Chinese philosophy - a sort of symbolism, representing the male and female elements in nature. Two commas, which fit together in a circle like this, one red, one black, is the sign. [*Drawing*] The red is masculine, light, goodness, life, positive; the black is female, darkness, depravity, death, negative. Here the female got knocked quite out of the ring early in the ages and has never got back in this country. Among the higher Coreans, she had the worst end of every event, and her own liberty arose from a curious custom which compelled all the men to go home at 8 o'clock, and woe to one who got caught out, for a heavy penalty was his. then with the men safe at home, the women could go out! I'm sorry to say that the Japs have taken that away. But now little boy and girl Choseners go to school, so something better will come. Men and women wear white. The men a sort of robe, which isn't bad, the women a bunchy starched skirt with a jacket so short that the bosoms of a nursing mother frank- ly hang out between the skirt and jacket, and those of other women seem to find their way into the open space, but no one notices. Open bosoms are all the fashion here. The English woman at dinner shows hers down to the nipple, here a Chosen women shows her nipple but not the top. All e' same. - 12 - Photo (left) [*Photo caption: [Characters]*] Man in mourning hat. Very common sight. Photo (right) [*Photo caption: Parent and child. [Characters] ([Characters])*] Nursing mother. Very common sight and very handy. - 13 - The men wear a funny little black hat, and when in mourning both men and women wear a perfectly immense straw hat. The street life is the chief thing to see in Senel and in the country which looks so much like the U.S.A. as not to be strange. The dress of women is most unartistic in Asia, but they wear pretty little slippers turned up at the toes, which are usual in colors. They all look, men and women, as though they had their bed clothes on. One interesting thing from the book concerning Chosen impressed me. It seems China set great store on ginseng roots which are man shaped. They gave the arms for diseases of the arms, the legs for dis- eases of the legs, the body for the body, etc. Now this root grew in Korea and the people had a monopoly and got fine prices for their product. The Dutch merchantmen who came to China wished to meet this demand with supply if possible, and through the Dutch in New York, very soon the Indians in Mass. were scouring the country for ginseng which grew plentifully there. In exchange they got rum, and were crazed by it to the despair of the missionaries, but continued ginseng hunting for more rum. From Albany the bunches of these roots went down the Hudson to New York, thence to Amsterdam, thence to London, where the British E. India Co. bought them and landed them in Canton, thence to Peking on camels, where American Indian-gathered ginseng "broke the market", ruined the monopoly of the Coreans! This was in 1757! when Korea was a Hermit Kingdom and America a feeble colony, and steamships were yet to come! (page 388). - 14 - Photo [*Photo caption: Corea Custom Going Out of Women ([Characters]) [Characters] ([Characters])*] Photo [*Photo caption: [Characters]*] - 15 - Photo Entrance to home and office of Am. Consul at Mukden, formerly a Buddhist Temple. Photo One of the Consul's stone dogs at Mukden. - 16 - Photo One of the Consul's Dogs. Photo Carts and Jinrickishas near station at Mukden. - 17 - Photo (left) Street scene in Mukden. The signs are often embroidered in brilliant colors and suspended from some gayly decorated dragon or bird projecting from the building. Photo (right) Another street sign. - 18 - JAPAN We left Senel [*Seoul*] early on Monday and traveled all day to Pusan, where we took the steamer for Shinienoseka. We arrived at 6, went ashore in a launch, found an exceedingly polite railroad guide, who checked our baggage and looked after us perfectly and then refused a fee! We were now in Japan! We had an hour to wait and took a walk. Here as in Corea and Manchuria and upper China we were as curious looking as a brass monkey. Our hats and our big feet were the chief sources of curiosity and amusement. At 2:30 we arrived at Miyajima, where we crossed to the Island of that name by a short ferry. The Japanese call this one of the three prettiest places in Japan. Here is a Shinto Temple and the whole place is sacred. Until recently they allowed no one to be born or to die there. If a birth occurred by accident, they hustled the offend- ing mother away in hot haste and stay she had to for three weeks! A corpse was more easily managed. The place is simply packed with little shops where clever little things are sold, which tempt and fall to pieces before one gets to the hotel with them. We worked hard to see as much as possible and did not go home until dark, and were agreed that we had never seen a prettier place. The Shinto Temple was simple and clean. A woman with a little baby came and throwing some money into a big box, knelt before it until a priest came and direct her to come inside. There she knelt with a gay kimono tied around her with ribbons in such way as to cover the baby. The priest mumbled as priests do, before a staff upon which the white papers were hanging, clapped his hands now and then. Two little nuns knelt, walked and clapped their hands and all was over - the baby had been placed under the protection of a Shinto god for its life. - 19 - This happens to every Japanese baby. With fond expectation of the pleasure of going over the same ground the next morning, we went to bed thoroughly tired. Photo Gateway in street at Mukden. Heads of Jacobs and Catt in foreground. Photo Consul's stone dog. - 20 - Photo (left) These big brass samavars with fire in the bottom, with stone- pipe coming out of the fire portion and with water in the top ready for tea, are the most characteristic thing in Mukden. Photo (right) Station at Mukden, showing flags of the Chinese Republic. - 21 - Photo (left) Soldier on platform of train. Manchuria. Photo (right) Line of soldiers as they appeared at every station in Manchuria. - 22 - Photo - 23 - Photo - 24 - We awoke, Wednesday, October 2nd, to hear the rain descending in torrents. We had intended to leave at 2:30. We concluded to go at once. Alas, we could not get across the Island Sea to our train. The Dr. spent the morning writing and Mrs. McVey attempted to teach me pinochle. After lunch we waded through mud and rain to a distant ferry, since the hotel did not take out its little launch on such a day. We got all wet through and when we got on our train we were glad to find a car to ourselves. We spread ourselves out to dry, changed our clothes and when at the next station, other people came aboard, we were ready for company. Mrs. McVey went on to Yokohama and the Dr. and I stopped in Kobe at 11 p.m., and by midnight were in our beds at the Tor Hotel. Miyajima has a Torie or Temple Gate in the sea opposite the entrance to the Temple. It is red lacquer and is immensely picturesque, and is one of the things most largely imitated and pictured in all the arts. Later we learned that these always stand before the Shinto or Japanese Temples, but never before the Buddhist Temples. Thursday, Oct. 3rd. The weather threatened but delivered nothing more serious than sprinkles. We shopped all day. All the way along we had said that this function of globe trotting should be performed in Japan. In the process we climbed a hill to see a cascade, but de- clined to climb the whole distance to the fountain head of the Tausan water which is so largely consumed in this part of the world - the oriental apolinaris, tasting as bad but costing less. The way to the first station was lined by seductive [*looking*] little shops. The town itself is a modern, Western-looking place, and offers no other inducements to tourists than its shops. We had intended to go on, stopping at another place en route to Yokohama; but we were very much fatigued as the cold had given way to heat, so we decided to remain in Kobe another day. - 25 - Photo On of our Rickisha boys at Mukden. Photo (left) Chinese woman at the station - Mukden. Photo (right) Large mound over important person in Mukden cemetery. - 26 - Photo (left) Very old Dagoba at Mukden. Photo (right) Cemetery at Mukden. - 27 - Friday, Oct. 4th. We shopped again in the morning and rested and wrote letters in the afternoon. Saturday, Oct. 5th. We left the beautiful Tor Hotel. Photo [*Photo caption: Printed by Uyeda Yokohama Tor Hotel, Kobe, Japan.*] and were on our train at 8:30. We were all day en route, arriving in Yokohama at about 8 p.m. The journey was pleasant, giving us an idea of the country which is much like Java, but not tropical. We found Mrs. McVey standing in the door of the Grand Hotel waiting for us. We did not secure very good rooms, but were glad to tum- ble in anywhere. After dinner, I had my trunks, which had been in storage, brought to my room, and Mrs. McVey turned over to me 36 letters and two armsfull of newspapers which had collected for me from the Bank. Sunday, Oct. 6. This was a long day, devoted to unpacking my trunks and reading my letters. The trunks smelled like an old cellar. Every article smelled mouldy and most of them were so. My velvet dress was covered with it. Gloves and shoes were spoiled and when these possessions were festooned about on my bedposts and chairs in - 28 - the sunshine which I fortunately had, my room looked like an auction room, and it gave me nervous creeps. Wednesday, Oct. 16th. The week beginning Monday, Oct. 7th, was a sort of whirlwind. There was a call to duty from the Land of the Stars and Stripes, and I decided to cut everything short and take the first steamer possible. One sailed on the 12th but I wished to have a little sewing done, for every dud I had was in tatters, and I had ordered some slides made, and neither could be finished. I cabled and wrote letters for that boat however, attended to my Chinese dress- makers, shopped some, etc., etc. meanwhile. On Wednesday we went to Tokyo to spend the day. It was un- fortunately a rainy day and although we saw the chief Temple in the sprinkles of the morning, nothing was at its best. After this, our guide took us to the Maple Club near by, the most aristocratic club there - he said - It was a tea house. One Geisha was being trained. Some little girls brought tea and a dainty cake, all for 10 cts. gold, and we sat on the floor, with socks over our shoes to keep the nice matting clean. We lunched at the Imperial Hotel and by that time the rain was pouring. We had to buy Japanese umbrellas and managed to get to the Colonial Exhibit - for little Japan has Formosa, Corea and Saghalien and one or tow more, and a la Gr. Britain had them all on show, while crowds of school children with their teachers were taking it all in. After that we could do little so made for home. The rest of the week was spent in sponging, brush- ing, sunning, airing my mouldy things and in buying more to get mouldy. - 29 - Photo (left) [*Photo label: Manchu Tombs at Mukden*] Photo (right) [*Photo label: Station at Mukden as we were leaving*] - 30 - On Sunday, Oct. 13. We arose early and via Tokyo to Nikko the place noted for its shrine. We arrived about 3 p.m. and at once started forth from the Kanaya Hotel. We took a long pretty walk across a river to see the 100 Buddhas. These are carved from stone and stand in a line- all made by one man. The hills, river and trees, just turning into autumnal tints, were all beautiful. Most things in Japan are frail. The people are small and light, but when I crossed the swaying bridge I thought my time had come. However, it hadn't, for here I am still. On Monday, Oct. 14th, we started early and went to see the great Temple. It is really the Temple belonging to the Tombs of the old Showguns. It is built on a hillside, has the usual Torii, a magnificent gate, many buildings, all in exquisite re- pair. The lacquer, bronze, and wood is perfect and although a fire, earthquake or tornado could easily wipe it out of existence, so perish- able is it, yet it is surely the most charmingly beautiful temple we have seen in Asia. Nikko is a place to spend days or weeks, where we had been hours. We could only get a bit of the atmosphere of it. A tumbling mountain river flows through the village and over it is an ordinary bridge over which the people come and go, but near by is a bright red lacquer bridge - a sacred bridge, only used by the Emperor! From the human bridge this is one of the most picturesque sights. The red bridge is outlined against the mountain side covered with green, and between its supporting arches the white tumb- ling current is seen. After seeing the Temple, and that was a long walk with much climbing of steps up the hills, we did a little shopping, lunched and were off for Tokyo. The missionaries started the fashion of having no school on Sunday. The Government adopted - 31 - the custom and Sunday is likely to become as much a day of rest as in Christian lands. The railways run excursions on Sundays and there were hundreds, if not thousands, in Nikko that day, the groups always following a man with a flag who explained things to them like a "Man from Cooks." A very long avenue - many miles of cryptomaria or pines leads to the Temple. Along this route the Emperor's messengers carried offerings to the Tombs. Now the trees are about 300 years old and very large. The road is rather narrow and they shade it to such an extent that it is muddy, so we did not ride in our rickishaws to our train that way, as the guide books say is good to do. On Sunday eve. we went with our guide to a tea house, by en- gagement, to see some geishas dancing. Every tourist does this at least once. It is usually very expensive, but here it was cheap so we indulged. Another lady joined us and for $5.50 we were enter- tained by 9 dances. In larger houses there are more girls and they are better trained. We sat on the floor with socks over our shoes. On little trays before us was tea and perrermint sweets. There were girls who played on their native instruments and five or seven girls did the dancing. The dances are symbolical or illustrations of some idea, or story. The girls sing also. Some are very funny and all rather clever and interesting. We all wanted to see more of it and a better performance, but no opportunity offered. The little girls gathered around us after the program and admired all our clothes and especially the lorgnettes of the Dr., and our fourth member - Miss Wickham of Chicago. As soon as we arrived at the Imperial I was approached by Mrs. Hall of Chicago, Curator of the Fine Arts there, to say that Mr. and Mrs. wished to come that evening and speak. They are nice forward people, who gather the liberals of - 32 - every sort. But my, I was ready to drop, and I couldn't do it. Be- sides we had other plans, which shocked Mrs. Hall when I confided them. Nevertheless, we engaged a guide and an automobile and about 9 p.m. we were driven a long distance away to Yoshiwara, the famous Red Light District of Tokyo. Here the Social Evil has been segre- gated for 300 years and is so closely regulated that many Europeans think of it as the solution of a vexed problem. A beautiful gateway across the street announces the entrance. It is brilliantly lighted and well policed. All is quiet and order- ly. There are fine buildings in street after street - some with courts in the center and in every one, one of the two things is to be seen: (1) A large room with matting on the floor as in a house. The back wall is made of beautiful screens, the front wall, which is on the street, consists of wooden bars about two or three inches apart. In this room, sit the prostitutes, their hair decked with many pins, clad in beautiful kimonos (usually all alike in one house) and with their obis fastened in front. Here men may gaze at them, select the one he wants and at a window where sits a hard-faced man, he may engage her, pay his money, register his name, and she then takes him to her room, to come back to her place when that one has gone. (2) The highest priced most exclusive ones do not have the women sit at exhibition, but their portraits are there in rows, and in several these slowly revolved, giving an evasive attractiveness to the faces. All of these girls have a maid - a little girl - and sometimes a man servant. Very many of them are sold to this business by the fathers for a definite sum of money which they must have. The girl is given a government license and she contracts to remain 3 years. Half of her earnings are hers. From her half she pays her board, clothing, tax to the Government, hospital fees, and applies the rest on the loan. If she is ill, the time she is absent - 33 - is added to her contract and she must stay until she has paid back the money loaned. Often girls of high character enter these places to do favor to their fathers and when they come out it is said - that no one condemns them. We heard that one girl served there to raise the money to keep her brother in college in America when funds fell short. I shall never forget those rows of faces behind the bar, each expressive of the must unutterable sorrow! nor the hard men at the windows - a type unlike any other we had seen. Five thousand girls are there, and it is reckoned that when licensed and unlicensed prostitutes and geishas are counted, there are two millions of them. The geishas, pretty girls, are trained in all the ways of coquetry, and are the real, though innocent enemies of the wife and home. She is only plying her own trade to which her parents have sold her. O Man! are you human or devil? I wonder! Monday, Oct. 14th, we went to see Miss Tsudo's school for girls and I made a little speech to the senior girls who will soon be teachers. I had a nice long talk with Miss Tsuda about my mission. We did a little sightseeing and after lunch went back to Yokohama, arriving about dinner time - that meal being prefaced by Chinese dressmaker fits. One day of the previous week we went by automobile to Kamakura - the ancient capital. The Great Buddha is there, the largest statue in the world. He is made of bronze and his "insides" contain a good-sized room and shrine. He certainly is a wonder. Tuesday, Oct. 15th, Mrs. McVey having trouble with her teeth, the Dr. and I went alone to Miyanoshita, a mountain resort where people go in summer. The Fujiija Hotel is picturesquely located and excel- lent. The trip gave us a further view of the country. We went by train to Kudsar, by train to Conota, and by ricksha four miles further. - 34 - There we lunched, took a walk, shopped, that is everywhere inevit- able, a returned, getting home for a very late dinner. We had had a pleasant day, but there was nothing peculiarly grand about it. We saw Mt. Fuji, as we did when we went to Kamakura - the sacred mountain, which is ascended by 15,000 pilgrims every year. Wednesday, Oct. 16th, I packed, aired and listed my purchases, my brain in a state of amazement at the amount I had gathered, and the wonder of what I should do with it all in my poor little flat. Thursday, Oct. 17, All three went to Tokyo and lunched at the Imperial with sixteen Japanese ladies by their invitation. After the lunch we gathered in a parlor and I made a speech, telling them what I wanted - and got the promise of a report - and perhaps of a delegate. Mrs. Lindsay of Boston, one of the dearest women I ever met, was with us and as she had lived in Japan 21 years and speaks the language she was a help. We got back in time to allow me an hour's rest, then I dressed, ate dinner and went to VanSchaik's Hall, where I addressed a good-sized audience, chiefly Europeans, (but not all) under auspices of the Literary Society. That day seemed like old times - and they say I made some converts too! Friday, Oct. 18. To-day I packed, packed, packed and lunched with Mrs. Lindsay and several American ladies among them Miss Scidmore, who wrote "The Garden of the East." I was there about the same length of time as in Tokyo. I had to get something out of the Tokyo lunch and that is always fatiguing, and there was nothing but pleasure to be had at this lunch - yet I came home utterly tired out and the day before I had been rested. This contrast has made a deep impression on me. The quiet, contained, sweet little Japanese have a soothing influence. We Americans stir everyone else up to the same nervous state we are in ourselves. We ought to be put in cages and fed on rice awhile! At the lunch Mrs. Lindsay handed me a bag as - 35 - a souvenir from her, Mrs. Fraser and her daughter. Saturday, Oct. 19th. My Chinese dressmaker had never kept his word. I had had but one fitting, but at 12:30 when all my other baggage had gone, he brought my things looking very nice, but too late to try on and he helped me pack them away, and I hastened to the steamer. Mrs. Lindsay took me in her carriage, Mrs. McVey went in a ricksha, and Mrs. Fraser and another lady came each bringing me a bouquet. Mrs. McVey has given me a nice blue steamer hood, so I had quite a formal departure. Here I am in Room 119 of the Chiyo Maru, a beautiful, big, new, splendidly equipped boat. I am alone and never had a better and I doubt if I ever had quite so good and convenient a stateroom. Sunday, Oct. 20th. Naturally I was tired and proposed to read my newspapers, but I had little opportunity and talked all day. Altogether too many folks know me. Monday, Oct. 21st. The day passed as usual - - too much talk to accomplish anything. The sea has been quite rough and the tables only about half full. Mrs. Hall whom I met in Tokyo and Mrs. Fisk of Chicago, both Christian Scientists, have been ill in bed with mal de mar! but of course I have lived up to my record and Mrs. Burbank of Honolulu, a nice intelligent American, keeps me company. The ship edits a daily and to-day we were invited to the "A Deck" to see moving pictures. It was a very interesting entertainment - one I never heard of on a ship before. There is strong competition between the Pacific Mail and the Tokyo Kisen Kaisha, and the passengers are profiting by it. - 36 - Tuesday, Oct. 22nd. This morning I made me a chemisette, remaining in my room all the morning, and rather enjoying the solitude. After lunch I tried a nap and now have brought my diary up to date, mak- ing believe that I have devotedly recorded the evens day by day. Instead, I've forgotten half that happened I've no doubt. Wednesday, Oct. 23rd. This morning I read a book on Hawaii borrowed from Mrs. Burbank. This afternoon I have divided my postals into bunches so as to send one to C. City, one to Firestone, one to Minnie and keep an assortment myself. The weather has been fine, clear and bright, the sea smooth, the atmosphere warm, until just now when a small storm is brewing and the ship is rocking. On Friday morning last, my traveling companion, Dr. Aletta Jacobs and I breakfasted together for the last time and said good-bye, she talking an early train to Kioto (where we had intended to remain a week) and from there two days later she will take a boat for Vladivostok, and thence by the Trans-Siberian to Holland. We joined each other at Madeira, July 20, 1911, and for 1 yr. and 3 months, we have been strenuously endeavoring to see the world. There was much that was irritating in the atmosphere while Mrs. Boersma and Miss Cameron were with us. Miss C. and Dr. J. instinct- ively disliked each other, and Mrs. B. often aggravating to the Dr. I felt the strain of the strained relations often and doubtless I was myself as much blamable as any one in the party. However, when the party was reduced to two, all was placidity with notable exceptions. We were exactly agreed as to what we wanted to do. Our minds were as one on the expenditure of time. We both wished to room alone on boats and in hotels no matter if it cost more. We wanted to go first-class on the trains and boats, and we were both - 37 - prompt in paying our debts to the other when we had been paying the common expenses. Our education and experience in life had been wholly different, and we therefore approached many things with a different point of view. We had many a fierce altercation, usually ending in the announcing of the finality by me, "Well, it is so in the U.S.A. anyway," and be her, "Well it is so in Holland anway." Or perhaps we disputed over why the children had their heads shaved, or why the women wore their hair in a certain way, etc., etc., but as neither of us knew, these disputes ended amicably. We usually put aside such quarrels each firm in the belief that she was right, but both I am confident learned much from each other be- cause of the difference in education. We were both strong-willed, stubborn opinionated, yet we came through firm friends, and I at least with a warm and sincere admiration for her. Her devotion to the cause of her sex, her fund of general information on side lines, her strong memory, her calm judgement, her unceasing energy, combine to make her a truly wonderful and great woman. Her letters to "Der Telegraf" caused her much labor. She wrote early and late, on trains and in her room - always there was a letter to be finished. I could not have kept up with her in this respect, and often I rested when she worked. It was with mutual regret that we parted and whatever happens in the future, we shall always have this memory in common, of the most wonderful experience which ever fell to either of us. Mrs. McVey, a kind-spirited, good-looking, rather stylish- looking, woman joined us at Shanghai, and we parted with her at Yokohama two months later. Very fond of dress, husband dead, children married, she is striving to kill time, and if a husband chances to appear who is eligible she will not object. Fairly intelligent, but - 38 - no scholar. She was not a clog, but no help. She never obtruded herself and was truly unselfish. She irritated the Dr. a good deal and me some by the continual references to her children. Undoubtedly her heart was always with them and it was natural for her to speak of them. I'm sure I'd do so, had I had any, but just why Mothers can- not learn that the every day monotonous experiences of John and Fannie are not interesting to others, I do not know. We were agreed that Japan made a fitting climax of a won- derful experience. As picturesque and beautiful as all the long chain of islands which fringe the coast of Asia, it possesses a much more healthful and comfortable climate. As thickly populated as Java, it is also as closely cultivated, and its people are distinctly higher. The hotels are the best in Asia, the service and laundries excellent, and travel is made easy for foreigners. The distinguishing features of Japanese architecture are the upturned roofs, the Chinese pagoda and the Temples composed of many small buildings. All this comes from China, but the torii and the lantern are distinctly Japan- ese. These temples and innumerable shrines seem to fit into the scenery with perfect blend and easily make it the most picturesque country in the world - so I believe. But the real interest lies in the fact that the Japanese are the leaders of civilization in Asia and have won a place among the world's Nations. Every other country has taken the lion, tiger, dragon, eagle or some other king of beasts or holihock in a circle, and the crest of the present reigning family is the chrysanthemum. That fact perhaps symbolizes a difference which is deep. Asis has as yet no nerves, no prostrations, no brain fag. Will that come with progress, or will Asia learn how to combat it and will - 39 - the West sit at its feet and learn? I wonder! It seems that men in Japan are doing miracles in mental power and the mentalists come here to learn from them. There are holy men, too in the caves as in India, who, it is said, possess great occult powers. It is hinted that these "hollies" hypnotized the Russians and so won the victory for the Japanese! That's "going some!" If the "holies" are going to keep this up, what are the poor dreadnaughts and super- dreadnaughts to do? It was with bitter disappointment that we decided to cut short our visit to Japan and fly to our house in response to the stern call of duty. The solace was the decision to return to New York via The Trans-Siberian Ry from Budapest, and thus pay a more complete visit to the Land of the Midnight Sun. Sunday, Oct. 28th. We have had the unique experience of having passed through a week of eight days, and Friday having been repeated. The management do much to entertain us. Two evenings we have had moving pictures and last night we had a theater, the same entertain- ment having been given the 2nd class the night before. I am sure no European crew could present anything a quarter so good. There was a jujutsu contest which showed some of the movements which have made these small wiry people so agile and almost wonder working in their wrestling. There was a juggler who did clever tricks, but that men from among the stewards and crew could give a somewhat extended dialogue without a sign of self-consciousness seemed to me more re- markable than anything which had gone before. Nowhere in Asia, with one exception - the boy who interpreted in Shanghai - have I seen one symptom of stage fright in men or women. I conclude that this is due to the fact that self-consciousness is a manifestation of diseased nerves, the monopoly of which is to be found in Europe and America. -40- We have some really intelligent missionaries on board and now Mr. Bartlett, Congregationalist, is going to preach. As the family sit opposite me, I am going. I like him, but his wife more. She was cut out to be one of us. She told me a good story. An English woman had a disobedient child and she kept calling to her husband. "O Mr. Haustin, Mr. Haustin, come 'ere and make 'Arold mind me." To-morrow, we arrive at Honolulu and I am full of anticipations. Tuesday, Oct. 30th. We arrived at Honolulu yesterday at 1 p.m. I received a wireless yesterday morning before I was out of bed asking if I would speak and I wired back that I would. So I packed up a dress in my suitcase and was ready to go ashore as soon as we docked. At the foot of the gangplank stood Mrs. J. M. Dorsett (German father and Hawaiian mother) and Mrs. Sharpe also half cast, I think. They threw around my neck long garlands of a brilliant orange flower. This is a Hawaiian custom and when friends arrive or depart they are garlanded. All honored guests at festivals of all kind get them and women are to be found at the market who make and sell them every day in the year. I hope I did not look as silly as I felt. Mrs. Dorsett took me in her automobile and placed it and herself at my disposal. At my request we went to Thrumm's bookshop where I bought a book on Hawaii, and to a photographer's where I could not get what I wanted, and then we went to the Museum. It is placed in a delightful building and includes a very valuable collection of arts, crafts, gods, etc. of the Polynesian peoples. We then too a drive out to the Pali (meaning precipice). -41- Here a break in the mountains leaves a precipice below which is the plain which leads to the sea. Here a Chief drove his enemy and they were killed in the fall. A wire rope used to be stretched from the plain to the top of the cliff and the natives climbed up and down. The main thing now is the view out at sea which is magnificent. We drove along streets of beautiful homes (the houses were not great), with great rows of Royal Palms and other tropical wonders, and with lovely velvety lawns. It was all very pretty and the wrinkled mountains were hidden under a varied blue haze which was very picturesque. Then we went to the Aquarium, which I had been told I must not miss, and I found it a marvel of wonders. I did not know that such curious creatures existed. The shapes were curious, but it was the colors which were amazing. There was a pair of bright lemon-colored of the sunfish shape. There were two varieties colored a deep brilliant Chinese blue, one was tinted in all the variations of "baby blue" and several varieties were pink, and red. In one tank were dark fish striped with lemon, like this, [picture] the stripes being bright and well defined, and there were in the same tank fish of the same shape and colors with the stripes running the other way. [picture] I hope they will cross for then they will produce a plaid fish! One grey fish seemed to be set with diamonds, little spots sparkling like these precious jewels. One fish was like this: [picture] -42- The colors were brilliant and prismatic, all the tints of the rainbow appearing in turn, and he carried a long delicate flag behind him, which waved in the water. There were goldfish striped with white, and indeed every fish was a wonder of nature. Several looked as if stuffed with cotton, covered with dove colored silk and then hand painted and one had a pink ribbon bow on his tail, and another had a tail nailed on with blue moonstones! My astonishment grew with each tank, and I consider these beautiful creatures almost worth a trip to Honolulu to see. At about five o'clock, I went to the Young's Hotel, tool a room, rested, etc. and later dressed and had dinner with a big cup of coffee. Mrs. Dorsett came with her motor, and we went to the Opera House. Considering the brief time allowed for arranging, there was a good audience. The stage was decorated with two huge bunches of a brilliant red flower I had not seen. These they gave me and there were enough for every table in the dining room. I got to bed about midnight. This morning at about nine, I went down upon the Dock (as the ladies did not like coming on the boat). Mrs. Dorsett and Mrs. Bainbridge were there. Mrs. Dorsett brought me some photos and an Hawaiian fan, and Mrs. Bainbridge a cup made of cocoanut, from which the Hawaiian eat their poi. Just as the gangplank was being taken down three other Hawaiians came and sent in to me about a dozen long and brilliant garlands. The society formed is composed of native women mostly. The Governor and his wife (a sister of Walter Dillingham) were present at the meeting and evidently some other prominent people. At the last moment, Mr. Smith, the manager of the -43- Dry Dock contract here, came abroad and we had a little hurried conversation. Honolulu is a little warmer than I thought. The sun shines and it is always balmy, but in the long run, one would miss the frost and find it depressing I think. The boys celebrated for their water achievement, gathered around the boat and dived for nickels. They reminded me of the strange fish at the aquarium, and they were every bit as much at home. The most curious "beastie" in the aquarium after all, were the octopuses or octopi. These possess the means to change their color, so that one which had attached itself to a grey rock became grey, and another which had fastened himself to a conglomerate became spotted exactly like it. Out in the open they were white. Just why nature has equipped some creatures with such tremendous means of self-defense and others with little or none, is difficult to understand. The octopus is a good comparison for the trusts. His long suckers can bring blood and when that tentacle is cut off, he doesn't mind. He pulls another off his rock and begins to work that. In India garlands were thrown around our necks in the Temples, and we were expected to open our pocketbooks. But a missionary on board says that honored guests at all entertainments always have garlands about their necks, and I recall that we had them placed there at the Parsee wedding in Bombay. Now why and how does it happen that these people, the Indians and the Hawaiians, Aryans and Polynesians have this same custom? The Hawaiians were the first Polynesians I have seen. I am sure they have Negro blood, and the aboriginies of India also have it. I believe the Negroes were the first lot that got out of the trees. Somehow they never got very far from their tailed ancestors. -44- I feel that I have practically arrived at the end of my trip, since all the rest of the way is my own home land. We have made suffrage speeches to audiences on four continents: America, Europe, Africa, Asia, and on the ships of three Oceans. Our audiences have included the followers of every main religion, Christian and Jew, Mohammedan, Hindu, Parsee, Buddhist, Confucian, and Shinto, and representatives of all the main human races: Aryan, Semitic, Negro, Malay, Polynesian, Mongolian. We have left the seeds of revolution behind us, and the hope of liberty in many souls. But we have got much more than we gave - an experience so upsetting to all our preconceived notions that it is difficult to estimate its influence upon us. I sincerely pray that some degree of blessing this trip has been to me may be given to others, and especially that I may be able to convey to others the intensified conviction that the Cause of Woman cannot wait. I am tired and I would like to retire from the work and the worry, but if I can bring the result one thousandth of a second sooner by my work, I must keep at it. Carrie Chapman Catt. Transcribed and reviewed by volunteers participating in the By The People project at crowd.loc.gov.