CATT, Carrie Chapman Diaries (duplicates) July 19 - Aug. 20, 1912 Part XI Diary of Carrie Chapman Cott. The Philippines July 19th to August 20th 1912 Duplicate DIARY CARRIE C. CATT THE PHILIPPINES JULY 19 to AUG. 20, 1912 THE PHILIPPINES. Friday, July 19, Manila Hotel We have been in Manila a week to-day, but there has been no time to write. Our trip to Hongkong was without venture. The China Sea was as hot as the Red Sea and seemed to grow hotter every hour. We came near enough to the P. Isl. to see the lights and it was a pity that we had to pass by. The China Sea is reputed to be one of the roughest in the world, but it was smooth enough for us and one night it gave us a great pleasure in the form of fine phosphorescence, the finest I ever saw. The harbor of Hongkong might be called an inland lake as only rugged and rather forbidding mountains can be seen from the sea. Once inside, the craft is numerous and even outside little boats looking like butterflies dotted the water - always going by twos. In every harbor the boats are of different build and carry different sails. Those of China are like this (1) The sails are colored like burnt umber. The water under a clear sky is intensely blue, the hills a vivid green and the combination produces a most picturesque landscape. As we slowly draw inside, the picture was like this: (2) -2- And a little later it was like No. 3. for the city lies far inside the Harbor behind the hills, a fact which accounts for the awful summer heat. It grew hotter and hotter as we came inside. We stopped at a sugar refinery some distance from the city and remained on the ship until nearly evening, when the office launch belonging to the line J.C.J.L. took us to town. We went to the Hongkong Hotel, which is pretty good, but it stands in a narrow street and is breathless. We took a walk in -3- the streets after dinner and saw people who looked like No. 4. This was on Sunday, July 7. On Monday the 8th we went to Cooks and the Bank, and arranged our passage, and it took all the morning. In the later afternoon we went by train up the funicular road to the Peak Hotel, where it is much cooler. The Hotel was being repaired and did not seem to be very nice, but it has a magnificent view. We came back by rickshaws over a beautiful road, which was a delight all the way, or would have been had our two boys (each) not put us down pretty often and demanded their pay. We gave them double price when we got out and they they followed us about, sending two policemen to us to say they had not been properly paid. When we told what we had given, they were sent flying. Evidently the Heathen Chinese is no more satisfied with the regular rate than is all the rest of Asia. In the morning I called on the Am. Consul and had a nice talk with his Chinese Secretary. He told me the women had no suffrage and none of them had been elected to Councils or Parliament, but when we arrived on the Tjimanock, we -4- were surprised to see many boats manned by women push up to our boat to get some of our passengers of whom we had many in the 2nd and 3rd class, and they were so strong minded and strong limbed, and so dexterous with their curious oar and tiller that one could not think of them as "the weaker sex." One had a baby which never whimpered, but sat still as the baby of an oarslady should. When the passengers went down the gang plank there were several ladies with tiny deformed feet, but the little girls had normal feet. The contrast between the boatswoman and the ladies was instructive for the character as well as the feet of the former had been allowed to develop, and the character of the latter was as small as their poor little pegs. On Tuesday we went shopping, packed and were on our boat by 4 p.m. The boat was not nice, but it had a good table. There were four passengers, ourselves, a Spanish priest, and a young Englishman. We were a good deal bored, but on Thursday the 11th we arrived at about 11 o'clock. We passed Mareveles at about 6 A.M., and the Captain himself came to arouse me. When I stuck my head out of the door to see what was wanted, I found an American Health Officer. I was asked to come out, so we hastily dressed and reported. I was vaccinated (it didn't work), and by 7:30 we were off having left all out 2nd and 3rd class passengers and taken on those who had been left the week before, for small- pox is raging in Hongkong. We had been blissfully unaware that we were in any danger of another quarantine. Had we had a mild suspicion of it only, there might have been two suicides. This is the quarantine station and is named for a poor little nun who ran away with a naughty friar. They found them on the beach and -5- they were each sent away to life long penitence - the man to teach morals and Christianity on a distant isle, the girl to a convent. We passed Cavite, and saw the spot where the Spanish fleet went down. Mrs. Quinan and Mrs Peacock were awaiting the ship and Mr. Linnell came soon. We were hustled through all formalities and up to the new Hotel, which stands on ground made by the filling of the A.G.& P. We have a bath room with hot water and a tub. The stars and stripes are everywhere and there is an orchestra which plays the Star Spangled Banner every day. We have hot cakes and maple syrup (which never saw a maple tree) for breakfast, corn on the cob for dinner, and iced tea all the time. I was interviewed the first day three times, the last being called out of bed at 11 p.m. We unpacked abit and had a drive with Mr. Linnell in the evening before dinner. I cannot now tell just what we have done each day, but socially the accountant present stands thus. On Sunday Mr. Lindell took us in the company machine to Los Banos, 40 miles distant, where there are hot sulphur baths and a hotel. We punctured a tire which delayed us in a native village for an hour, and after a rest we started back, but another hour's delay on repairs brought us home about 7:30. It gave us a view of the country. Tuesday evening, we dined with Mr. and Mrs, Quinn, and met Mr. John DeHuff, Supt. of City Schools and Dr. Miller, Director of the Museum, in addition to the Company people. On Wednesday evening, we dined with Mr. and Mrs. Peacock and met Mr. Strong, in addition to the Company. On Thursday at 5 p.m., in my best clothes, I addressed the Fortnightly Club. -6- If the women end home as full of convictions as my garments were of perspiration, it was a success. On Friday, Mrs. Quinan and Mrs. Peacock gave us a tea at the home of the latter. There were many guests from the wife of the Governor General, down, and they were all beautifully gowned and looked as though they were picked out of the Fed. It rained most of the day we had the club meeting, and also during the tea. To-night, (Saturday, 20) we dine with Mr. Linnell at the Elks Club, which will finish the entertainments of the Company. We have called on the Governor General, or rather Acting Governor, Mr. Gilbert of Indiana, and began our investigation into education by calling at the department of direction. The pride of Americans is centered in education. The original plan was to set down in the Philippines our American system, but it was soon discovered that this was not feasible, and although all the workers say that probably there are faults, the present work appears to be along very practical lines. All public schools are conducted in English, which simplifies things to begin with. When the Dutch have taught Malay and Dutch to their pupils, there isn't time for much else. Industrial work is introduced almost at once. Throughout the schools, cooking classes work until the midmorning recesses, at which time the products are sold at cost price to the students, who beginning school at 7 a.m. and going home at 1 p.m. need a lunch. The girls are taught embroidery at an early age to which they take naturally, and before they are through the schools do beautiful work. They are also taught most useful lessons in sanitation, and in one class room are found a trained nurse teaching a fine class of young girls how to feed, clothe and care for babies,and they actually bring babies in to teach the girls how to bathe and -7- handle them. Nothing is more needed than this training, for the race is prolific, but 50% of the babies die under 1 yr. of age. In two schools they make a specialty of babies clothes- a suit consisting of an armless underskirt, a dress with sleeves, a little jacket and shoes made of color. The dresses were of bastiste and embroidered, and they are very dainty. In another school the girls were making basket ball suits for themselves. Lace is taught also, and this and embroideries may make a profit for the girls, but all the rest of the training for girls is to make "home happy," and keep them economically dependent. The boys learn basketry and their products are very salable. The Islands produce much very fine materials for this sort of work. They are taught to make gardens, and each boy must pay his proportion toward the rent of the total garden from the profits of his bed, the rest of the profits being his own. They also get carpentry, so that they know enough to be handy about a house. All this training to a much greater extent than is employed in the U.S., is continued throughout the grades. The 8 grades of the States is covered here by 7 grades, and is climaxed by a High School where 850 students attempt "the higher culture." Those who like more special training may go to the independent Philippine School of Arts and Trades, which is also under the Government. Here academic training is also conducted, but more time is put on the Manual training. The Director, Mr. W. W. Marquardt. This school was established by the Spaniards in 1889, with many branches. The interest waned for some reason, and the school was closed before American occupancy. It was opened again and has 500 pupils, 100 from Manila and 400 from the provinces. The education is free. -8- There are courses in machine shop practice, woodworking, wheelwrighting, blacksmithing, ceramics, stationary engineering and automobile driving and repair. All students here are boys. The Direction has tried to find demands which trained men could supply and surely this is better than self-government, for that will naturally follow. But, take the trade which goes by the dignified title of ceramics. Pottery of a crude sort has existed on the Islands for centuries, and has been the work of women. Men took the products of the women and carried them around on boats for sales. The women never had a potter's wheel which is the most primitive machine. Now, the boys are taught to make pottery of the same sort by the wheel. The chief product is the pot for cooking and the stove and flower pots. By the old division of labor, the men and women could claim a division of the pottery profits. How about the new methods? The Director thinks he will put in a class for cooking at the School of Arts and Trades, because now they hire a Chinese cook to prepare the mid-morning lunch, and because boys cook for all the American families and out to be trained. All this is practical good sense and might well apply to the whole of Africa and Asia, since women are never household workers except as caretakers for children. But, this is woman's most characteristic employment and away it goes!! There will be nothing left for women soon but voting! The kitchens at the schools are very practical because they employ native utensils. The clay stoves burn cocoanut fiber and husks for fuel. A big pot holds the dish of water and is dipped out by a cocoanut dipper with a bamboo handle. Next - 9 - week we shall continue our visits to schools, and when we have completed them we shall "do" the morals and the health. The teachers and all Americans in the education seem to be very enthusiastic and make me think of "new brooms." They are alert to make the educational experiment a success. Mr. Rafael Del Pan was a native Spaniard, a lawyer, educated in Spain, whom we met in java. On Tuesday morning he took us in a motor to the Walled City - the Intramuros. It is the old city. The first wall, built in 1570, was of logs and in 1574 the Chinese attached Manila, and burned the City, including the walls. Curiously enough they did not come before the Fort which commands the natural entrance to the city, but landed below and marched in behind the Fort. In 1590 a stone wall was built. In 1762 the British attached the City, but they landed where the Chinese did and came in behind the Fort. The Americans did the same, so the Fort was never of any use and now could not withstand modern artillery. The Americans have built offices on top of the walls where is located the Headquarters of the Army of the Philippines and where the breezes from the Pasig and the Harbor may blow the perspiration from the brows of Generals, Captains and clerks. For centuries a moat surrounded the walls and seven gates were closed at night, and guards stood alert when their superiors were looking, and slept when they were not. Within priests of all the divisions known to Spaniards, occupied quaint cloisters and said mass in churches, the administration of Spain administered and the Filipinos themselves came and went as they had done for centuries before. Now, the m oat is filled and has yielded its picturesque old world beauty, and its mosquito breeding fields to the modern utilitarianism. Five old -10- gateways are still in the wall, and most of them are picturesque. Within is the oldest church of the Islands - that of the order of St. Augustine, and a curious tale is told. Antonio Herrera, the nephew of the Spanish architect of the Escurial, fought a duel and killed his opponent. Philip the Second had decreed that any duelist who killed another in combat should himself be put to death. Then came the great Spanish architect and plead with the king for the life of his nephew. The king granted it on condition that he would be become a member of the order of St. Augustine, and would go to the Philippines and never return to Spain. All this he did and when this church was to be built he made it of stone and used the arch for the first time in the Islands. Others protested that it would not withstand the earthquakes. When the great earthquake of 1862 came, and other buildings yielded, this one stood, although its vaulted roof was cracked. It was mended and still stands an interesting relic of 1599. In the Church of St. Ignatius of the Jesuits, there is a pulpit which is said to have been designed and executed by natives. It is carved and would do credit to any European Cathedral. This church is new. The Europeans say the native has much talent in wood-carving, but no initiative, and do not think a Filipino designed this. Here in Intramuros is the big Cathedral on one side of a square or plaza, the old palace on another side - now occupied by offices of the Gov. General. St the head of the stairs is a beautiful statue of Legaspi, who was with Magellan when he discovered the Islands in 1521 (and lost his life at Cebu), and this man returned with another expedition. The books say the cloisters of the convents belonging to these old Churches are most picturesque and interesting. -11- Gardens with palms and fountains - a safeguard to the virtue of the priesthood. They tell us too that could these old cloisters, and the bells hung from every church tower and the underground passages and cells of old Fort Santiago (now filled up) tell the tales which they have witnessed, then romance of the imagination would be outdone. 'Tis said a double row of little cells so small a man must sit to enter had openings into a sort of drain closed by a drawbridge, which when lifted would flood the place, and thus many a life was taken and the world never knew how. Now, the Stars and Stripes float everywhere and the sleepy Menyano of the Spaniard, so readily adopted by the native, which means, never do to-day what may be postponed until tomorrow, is gradually giving way to the American "Do it now." One feels the spirit of modern science rather than the dreams of romance in Manila now. The Americans have brought much that is practical with them, but when I learned that ices were on the menu of every school for the morning repast, and that one boy had breakfasted on pie and ice cream, I doubt if the reforms are infallible. One book says the Philippines are long on time - millionaires in time, and quotes: "Earth has no cure For the nervous quest, The tense unrest, The hurrying haste of fate; Like the soothing balm Of the tropic palm, And the land where things can wait." Every person with whom I have spoken declares the women to be superior to the men in all business affairs. One book, -12- "Interesting Manila" , By Geo.A.Miller, says: "The Filipino woman is the equal of the Filipino man, provided of course, that such is the case. Her Chinese sister limps in small footed helpnessness; her Hindoo cousin creeps about behind a veil; her Mohammedan relative is a harem slave, and even her Japanese neighbor is a doll to look at, but the Filipino stands up straight and with bare shoulder and sturdy carriage looks you squarely in the eye and is abundantly able to take care of herself. She is unbound in arm and waist, and not having the responsibilities of the social swim is free to go to market and to carry her end of the industrial load." This man gives the credit to the teaching and standards of the Catholic Church. But, neither the Mohammedans nor Buddhists have been able to reduce women of this race to subjection nor seclusion! On opposite page is an editorial from the Manila Times. Sunday, July 21. We certainly are in the midst of the rainy season for it has poured in torrents by the hour and drizzled all the time between for the past four days. All last night the rain drops pattered on our roof, and this morning there is no cessation. I actually had a blanket over me most of the night and it is delightfully cool this morning. Last evening our lady who was to call to take us to a school sent word that she could not go out in the rain, and in numerous ways we are finding that progress will be slow in sightseeing during this season. Last evening we dined with Mr. Linnell at the Elks Club, which is a creditable, comfortable building. We dined on the roof and there were about 20 people all desirable to know. The dinner was so much better cooked than those in this hotel, which I had thought excellent, that I realize what good American cooking may be. I had forgotten. Most of the guests left early and the rest of us went to the ball of the "Club Nacionalista" composed -13- of Filipinos. It was held in a nice hall, prettily lighted and decorated with green, and there was good music. There were too many people and the floor was crowded, but it was a pretty sight. The men were in European dress; the ladies in their native costume, which must be a modification of a Spanish fashion long ago. There are skirts with a wide bias flounce, sewn on the skirt without gathers, and these have very long trains. A sort of waist of very thin material (which the ladies weave) with large open sleeves, and very low neck, comes next. Then a handkerchief of the same material is folded several times at the back, the point coming to the waist line in the back, the two corners coming to the waist in front. It is so stiff it stands out from the neck, and the combination, with the exception of the long skirts, is very good for a hot climate, and is very pretty. The costumes were elaborate last night, many hued and elegantly embroidered. Had I been a young man, I should have gone home bewildered as to which girl I was in love with - they were so pretty and sweet and had I been a white young man, I should certainly have dreamed of brown beauties. We were home again and in bed by ten o'clock. This morning, I have been reading school reports, and there are things to be remembered. Athletics. I think no European nation makes so much of athletics as do we in the public schools. The people of the tropics never move without a reason and to work just for exercise has always been considered a sign of lunacy. The soldiers played baseball and the natives looked on with interest, but they made no effort to imitate until through the schools they were urged to try the -14- games. A man was sent around to the schools to teach games. Now each school has its Athletic club, many districts an athletic union, many provinces an athletic league, and some athletic associations are organized between provinces, as inter-provincial. All have constitutions, officers and rules. They play many games, but baseball seems the favorite. They have meets and contests between schools, the winning one keeping the trophy for a year. There are many silver cups going the rounds for this purpose. Mr. Cameron Hughes, the Governor General, has offered a good many prizes. Now the boys like the games and they interest the public perhaps as much as cock fighting, but betting is strictly forbidden, and a rule for practice is "Don't Smoke." Since the Dutch men teachers were usually smoking in their schools, I was glad to see this. The girls have basketball, and they have their contests too, but not to the same extent. The sewing classes make the uniforms for both boys and girls, and thus one hand washes the other. This training will undoubtedly make the Filipino larger and stronger. LACE MAKING AND EMBROIDERY. On opposite page I append some paragraphs cut from the report on this subject. No other colony had such an art as that which these women had learned in the Spanish convents, and this art the schools are turning to commercial purposes, but it will never be a very lucrative employment. -15- Sunday, July 28. We have now finished the schools. With Mr. DeHuff, Superintendent of Manila Schools, we visited about 30 intermediate schools and the High School one morning. Another morning we visited one building of primary schools under Miss Murdock, Supervisor. We visited the Normal School, the Commercial School, the School of Household Arts, the Trade School, etc. I marvel at the thoroughness of the organization. In every primary, intermediate and the High School we found the children engaged in industrial work. In the Normal School occupying a fine newbuilding, there were young men and women, mostly aided to come to School for training as teachers,called pensionados, and there they were learning all the industrial arts in order that they may teach them in their own schools. The University tops off the education, and is attended by both sexes, and has three women on the faculty. "Sec. 3. No student shall be denied admission to the university by reason of age, sex, nationality, religious belief, or political affiliation." The Director of Education, Frank W. White, now in the U.S. reports: 8403 Filipino teachers. 683 American " 397 Supervising" 40 Division Superintendents. 4404 Schools. 423,047 Primary school pupils. 20,952 Intermediate " 2,890 High school students. 38 High schools. 245 Intermediate. 4121 Primary schools. 200 Municipal Manual Training Shops. 35 Provincial Trade & Manual Training Schools. 1 School for Deaf and Blind. Insular (School of Commerce (Trade School (Normal (University (Household Arts. -16- The cost 10 - 11 exclusive of special building appropriations, was $3,223,856. He says further: "The U.S. is, in the face of European doubt and ridicule, conducting the hitherto untried and unheard of experience of governing a colony with the idea of preparing its people for ultimate self-government. If failure should be the result of this newexperiment, it would occasion no surprise to those European countries, but if success crowns the efforts put forth, the whole world will be ready to praise the work done; and also, will come that which to the U.S. will mean more than praise - the knowledge of a self-imposed duty well accomplished. Already doubt is rapidly changing to an avowal of faith in the work and the former ridicule to praise." The School of Household Arts is something quite apart. Girls or women come to Manila as pensionados, remain six months and learn embroidery and lace making. Their only obligation is to teach what they know to 10 other women at home free. The idea is to provide a kind of employment which will enable the women to support the family when famines caused by locusts, typhoons or draughts come. The practicability remains to be tested. When all the women do hand embroidery as they soon will, can it be possible that a market for their goods will be found. One girl will soon be graduated in the law department of the University; one has been graduated in the Department of Medicine, and more women doctors are coming on. About half of the students of the Pharmacy Department are women. In the Commercial School there are many girls learning stenography, typewriting and bookkeeping. The latter is the more remarkable, since mathematics is the bane of all Malay students. When one considers that all this vast system of schools has been constructed within 10 years, and the course of study fitted to the natives, it becomes an achievement which -17- only hustling Americans could have accomplished. A few buildings existed which had been erected by the Spaniards, and these were taken over. One is occupied by the Manila High School and is excellent. Old Spanish houses have been utilized and the old Spanish barracks where once the walls heard tales of war and heroism, have now become primary schools and little brown boys and girls are being taught the rule of peace through the medium of English. It it is to turn ? into ploughshares and pruning hooks, isn't it a step higher to turb barracks into schools? At the Department of Education there are many offices, busily humming with typewriters and all sorts of work. Women are in every department. Miss Fee, who wrote, "A Woman's Impression of the Philippines" is the head of a Correspondence Department with several women under her. They conduct a correspondence school with the native teachers to perfect their English. In the Spring Vacation, a Vacation Assembly for Teachers is held, and the educational work continued. In fact, the complete American system of education has been tramsplanted here, but with a much more complete system of industrial training, and therefore a much more practical system for the Philippines. At the Trade School which is a technical school for the entire Archipelago, the Director has a Department of Ceramics for the boys (only boys go there), but this was woman's work. He wishes to introduce cooking, and why not?- for boys do all the cooking for American families,etc. Hatmaking and basketry is being taught boys and girls are all taught embroidery and -18- lace making, which the Americans got from the Spanish Convents, which looks like creating a crowded employment. There are not so many girls in the public schools as boys, but many hundreds of girls are in the Convents and we have visited two. There again they are doing the same work as the schools are teaching. They are trying to teach silk culture to girls, and perhaps later they may be able to diversify the trades of women. However, the best thing from the point of view of the management, is that the industrial department of the entire school system has paid for itself and made a donation to the school fund. After the Schools we went to the Bureau of Science which occupies a fine large building, and is such a wise first step in Colonizing. Here a few scientific enthusiasts are doing wonderful work. A botanist is engaged in classifying all the flora of the Islands, and has a herbarium of 100,000 specimens. A Mineralogist is classifying the minerals and ores. A scientific library of 40,000 volumes, one of the best in the world, they say, is at the disposal of the workers. A number of chemists and biologists are working in research to find antitoxins for tropical diseases. Here they make the vaccine and other serums. An Entomologist is classifying insects and studying the pests of various crops with a view to finding a remedy. Another is starting an Aquarium. Athnologists are studying the wild tribes with a view to finding means to convert them to civilization. In fact original research work, which could this Bureau have all the skilled workers it could use, would transform a half known country into one with no more mysteries than Holland or New York. There are many medicinal plants, gums, etc. -19- which were known to the natives, "old women?" which are being tried out with good results, and some valuable additions to the medicines of the world. This Bureau is in conjunction with the Philippine General Hospital, which is constructed on an ideal model for the Tropics and can accommodate 350 patients. The Morgue is attached to the Bureau of Science, and all graduated Doctors must serve 6 months as internes before they get their degrees. Free clinics are connected with the Hospital and last year 50,000 patients passed through these clinics. The San Juan Tuberculosis Sanitarium is outside the City and is connected with the General Hospital. Also San Lazaro Hospital where contagious diseases are taken. Especial study is given to Tropical diseases. For instance, Manila is cleared of cholera, typhoid, smallpox plague, etc.,but many people have dengy fever, bacillary and amoebie dysentery, sprue, the cause and cure being as yet undetermined. The Francascan Nuns run one hospital with a clever dear old French woman with a heart as big as the moon at its head. She has lived 19 years in the Tropics and never been away(St.Pauls). The Mary Johnson Hospital is one for women and children, with a woman doctor at the head. There is a so-called University Hospital also, the Universities in the U. S. having each contributed to its support. All of the Hospitals train nurses. Dr.Heiser of the Health Bureau told us that it was a great feat to have got Filipino nurses. He knew that if they got their candidates from low or middle class families, others would never enter the profession. So they worked hard to get a first class of daughters of good families and at last succeeded, but again and again they were -20- withdrawn - when it was discovered that they must cook, or wash dishes, or make beds, or wait on men patients, etc., but each time after much effort and distressing suspense they were brought back, and at last the class was graduated. Then candidates became plentiful thereafter, and now they are gradually elevating the standard. Although there has always been a high birth rate, the race was standing nearly still owing to the high death rate and especially infant mortality. Now many women come to the Hospital for confinement, and four nurses go out regularly, as a sort of district nursing, and aid in confinements. The Bureau of Health employ a head nurse. The Bilibid Prison also belongs to the system and is the largest prison in the world, with accommodation for 4500 prisoners. There is a hospital attachment with tuberculosis patients on the roof. There is a nurse matron, one of God's few, Miss Little, who takes especial care of the women but is good to the men. One would never suspect Bilibid to be a prison at all were there no people in striped clothes with numbered tags. The guards are few and inconspicuous. It is a great work shop. Men prisoners are bakers and cooks, nurses, guards, etc., blacksmiths, wheelwrights, iron workers, cabinet makers, chair, hat and basket makers. The women are embroiderers and lace makers. The prisoner may choose the department in which he will work. There he learns a trade,and they all looked interested. They get good food, sleep in barracks like soldiers not in cells, and all was clean and sanitary. The women were delighted with their work. The all work about 8 hours, and all go to school. The Doctor was amused -21- to see these prisoners being taught in English. The teachers had all come through the prison school, but the supervisor was a well educated American man, who went wrong and is probably doing the best work he ever did. A store room of articles created or made here is kept where they are sold, and the industrial department pays for itself including all American supervision, material and machinery. The schools will soon keep a similar sales place. Now they hold an annual exhibition for sale of output. Twelve hundred men are out in a camp working for the Government. There is no contract work done for private individuals. But the most interesting part is this: When a man appears to be trustworthy, they send him to the Palawan. He is called a colonist and is taught agriculture. Later, upon good behavior, he is called a free colonist and may have his family come to him, provided they are willing, or he may marry a women colonist if both are eligible. When he or their time is up as prisoners, they become settlers and are given land, seed and necessary utensils. It is claimed that this experiment is a demonstrated success. Another interesting experiment is the Leper Colony. An Island was reserved, nice buildings, gardens were erected, while an education was going on to get the people to give up their lepers. They gathered 6000 and put them on the Island. In order to keep them alert, they proposed self-government. The men held an election and elected the officers recommended. When next Dr. Heiser went there, four or five hundred women came to him and told him the men elected were "no good," and that they wanted to vote. So he wiped out all that had been done and women and men voted for a new set which was better. They have a mayor, and attend to all -22- the duties to keep their settlement in order. Now so many have died there are but 2800 left. The Doctor (Prest.of Board of Health) says they take much interest and considering that they are sick people, some very sick, they do well. The Story of Sanitation is wonderful. To-day we drove out to the Reservoir, a big concrete basin full of good water. Ice is made only of distilled water. Those who cannot have waterclosets connected with the sewer may have night pails at 2 1/2 pesos per month if they can afford it. If not, there are public closets at little distances apart, provided with these pails. They are provided with covers and are collected every day, a clean one replacing the one removed. These are emptied out at sea and the pails thoroughly cleaned. From 11th Annual Report Director of Education,Aug.10,1911. Annual enrollment for 1910 - 11 reached 610,490, plus 5302 of the Moro Province, 4404 schools in operation. 9086 teachers are employed. School population 1,215,666 - 8403 of the teachers are Filipino. Arbor Day is held annually - Last year 600,000 trees were planted. Postal Savings Banks are in operation and pupils encouraged to deposit. All work done out of school is paid for and money may be deposited. A contest was held in 1911 and 13,728 pupils deposited money. This was done to introduce the system. Agricultural College is at Las Banos for boys. -23- Says Mary H. Fee: To the land holding aristocrat our Government says: "Come out and aid us to help thy brother, that he may some day rob thee of thy prerogatives" and to the peasant who is utterly unable to extricate himself from the necessity of working for a pittance for the aristocratic class, "O thou cock-fighting, fiesta harboring son of idleness and good nature, wake up,struggle, toil, take thy share of what lies buried in thy soil and waves upon thy mountain side and be as they brother, yonder." Nor is my picture complete if I do not add that, under his breath both peasant and aristocrat reply "Fool for what? That I may pick thy chestnuts out of the fire.' " Very good! August 9th. I have been to the Dormitory where the girls from the University and Normal Schools are boarded, and where Mrs. Burton,a graduate of DePauw is matron. I spoke 3/4 of a hour. Before I had addressed the Filipino women of the Club Nacionalista, Miss Marquez, a Filipino University student presided, and I spoke to an audience of beautiful young women in gay attire. We have dines with Judge and Mrs. Lobingier, and got home just before a typhoon which flooded the city. Some of the guests got caught in it and the water came in upon the floor of their carriages. We had to stay in a great deal last week as typhoons were frequent and rain continuous. We spent the time reading reports. I went to the Bureau of Science four mornings, where I went over pictures of the Philippines. The Government has 100,000. I have now arranged for 39 slides to be sent me later. We had been to the opera one night as guests of the "Company," and I had them all for dinner the same night. The guests were Mr.and Mrs. Quinan, -24- Miss Jessie Quinan, Mr. and Mrs. Peacock, Mr. and Mrs.Thornton, Hartzell and Howard Quinan and Mr. Linnell. We had Miss Amanda Little, Matron of Bilibid Prison one night. She is a grand woman. We also went one night at 7:30 to Bilibid to see "Retreat." At that hour the men march out into the yard and have a fine gymnastic training while the band plays. The prison was built by the spaniards and is in the shape of a wheel. In the center, the hub is a tower. From the front gate, visitors (with permits) may go up some winding stairs to a bridge about 2-ft. wide which leads to the tower. At that elevation one may see into all the yards at once, although the prisoners cannot see out of the yard they occupy. The detention prisoners were in grey. Those condemned in black and white stripes. Those promoted for good conduct wear brown (khaki). The next promotion is blue and to the 1st class. Fully 90% were first class. Then, they may go to the Penal Colony at Palawan, where they are called colonists; they are promoted to be free colonists and when time is up or that are pardoned, they may get ground of their own. That prison is a wonder. A good looking woman called and wanted to marry a prisoner. Upon looking the matter up, they found he was soon to be sent to Palawan and later his family could join him. The women were exercising at the same time the men were. Every prisoner entered the yard and took his place with his tin plate and spoon in one hand. When they were formed in line,the band played the "Star Spangled Banner," and Old Glory was slowly hauled down the staff while these men stood with uncovered heads. It was so quiet and done in such a solemn way that it was thrilling and impressive,but this manner of "making Americans" has an amusing side, which the Dr. saw of course. -25- From Report Philippine Commission 1909. Penal Colony Palawan. 50,000 cocoanuts planted. Schools conducted- nightschools adults and dayschoolsfor children. 6 barrios or villages. Self-government - "850 men convicted of all sorts of crime unguarded, conducting a little community with its own government, officers and police over whom is a life sentence prisoner, convicted of murder. The prisoners have their own tribunals, elected officers and assess their own penalties for infraction of rules. The power of the superintendent is absolute, as he can disapprove the findings of the court, all elections, all appointments, all judgments, but the cases where interference is necessary are few. Founded upon principle of George Junior Republic. Incentive is present. There is always a grade before them which they can reach by industry and diligence. Skilled laborers may wear straw hats, and the colonists take pride in earning the right to wear the garb of civilian and graduate from the clothes that resemble a prison uniform. The more advanced grades have their own farmsm, which they work on a profit sharing basis with the government and their own families. The highest grade receive pay. 1910 - 973 colonists - 34 of whom had their wives with them. 360 square miles is reserved for Colony. No fire arms are permitted on the reservation, nor are there guards, jails, prisons, yet peace and order are maintained -26- as satisfactorily as in any ordinary community. 80% were convicted of brigandage, homicide, robbery and murder are controlled by 5 Americans and 8 Filipinos. With one exception the Filipinos are ex-colonists. The Colony is expected to become self-supporting. The Commission urged the passage by Congress of a law which will have the effect of providing for the taking out of naturalization papers for citizenship in the P.I. by aliens resident here. It now happens that many of the more desirable class of citizens can in no way obtain the civil rights of the government, no matter how large their interests, or how permanent their residence, or how closely indemnified their interests may be with the future of islands. It is recommended that Congress either pass a law which in itself will give the power of naturalization and define the rules and regulations to be adopted, or empower the Philippine Legislature to do so." Poor men, no vote. The Commission would thrust it upon them. "There were charges against 310 municipal officials and justices of the peace, of whom 223 were found guilty." I have seen several convictions in the papers while here of municipal officers. One mayor in Cebu and one treasurer were convicted for stealing horses belonging to the city. The A. G. & P. have a contract within motor distance from Manila, and young Foy is in charge. One day he sent three workers to change -27- an anchor? They had done so before and knew how. Through their carelessness they tipped over their boat and one who couldn't swim was drowned. About a week after he was buried, the Headman of the village had Foy arrested. They (he and his officers) tried to blackmail the company, but when the Company talked Yankee to them and told them they should be reported, they quickly released him. An Englishman said, "Well you got him out of jail this time, but you wont next time. Serves you bally well right for sending em to school." These things operate against self-government. On the other hand, the officers of a small town, gave up their salaries in order to contribute the amount to the building of a necessary road. 1909 Report. "Death rate among troops in U.S. was for 1908 5.63, in the P. I. 6.82 and in Porto Rico 14.18" For 5 years statistics show 4 suicides per year to each 100,000 in P.I. as against 14 to each 100,000 in U.S. March 1,1908, the importation of opium was prohibited except for purely medicinal purposes, and the smoking of opium was likewise prohibited. Scholarships in P.I. Normal School established from money derived from funds "accumulated under optium act." Assembly passed compulsory education bill, vetoed by Commission as no money to provide schools at once. -28- Report 1910, Concerning Tribes. "It is true the Filipino, the Igorot and the Moro are of common racial origin, but so are the Anglo-Saxon peoples, and there exists between the Filipinos on the one side and the Igorots and Moros on the other far greater differences than those which distinguished the German, the English and the Americans. Indeed, the width of the gap between the Filipino, whose Malayan blood has been profoundly modified by intermarriage with people of other races, and who has attained to a degree of civilization far above that ever reached by any other Malayan people, and the wild man of the Luzon mountains, with his pure blood, his magnificent physical development and his primitive customs and instincts is very great." Report 1910. "Filipinos assured some tribes that American control would be only temporary and threatened them with future punishment when it should terminate." Miss Mabel E. McCalmont, was made Supt. of Philippine General Hospital in order to straighten out a "dissension among nurses" and discover leakage in money. She did both, saved the reputation of the hospital, saved $12,000. per year in cost of running the hospital and now has charge of plans and equipment of new hospitals chiefly for the provinces. Miss Morilla M. Norton sent me a booklet she had written on Charity in the Philippines, .Convents and Convent hospitals built by efforts of Spanish women; Bazars held by them in the middle of last century for this purpose. A Filipino nun founded the Loobau orphan asylum with her own money, and she herself took -29- charge. It now receives a small subsidy from the American Government. These Convents supplied homes for orphans girls, taught girls all the education they had and introduced the beautiful handiwork which now brings good prices in the market. Whatever may be said about the inhumanity of the Friars, only good is spoken of the nuns. We have visited some of these convents and found sweet faced, executive women as Mother Superiors. Tuesday,. Aug. 13,1912. This morning the stars and stripes are flying everywhere from public and American buildings, and it is a holiday. Fourteen years ago to-day the Spanish surrendered to Gen. Merritt and the American troops occupied the City of Manila. It is called Occupation Day. The troops at Palawan Park will have games, speeches, etc. and end their day with a big barbecue. Just how they will manage since the rain is pouring as usual,the globe trotter cannot make out. It seems a bit cheeky to make Occupation Day a general holiday, since the natives did not welcome the Americans. Mr. Rafael Del Pan, who is a reputable Spaniard here, and whom we met in Java, invited us to join a company of young people, of whom one was his very pretty daughter, to Pagsanjan (pronounced Packsan-han) one of the show places. We met them at the Paco Station at 3 p.m. Sunday and traveled until 7:20 by train. It only rained a little and I was very glad to discover that Luzon is as truly tropical when one goes a little into the Interior, as any of the more Southerly Islands. We soon passed through groves of beautiful mango trees, then rich corn fields, then crossed bridges over little brooks, bordered by -30- luxuriant graceful bamboo, with cocoanut and bananas in wild profusion. The hemp looks so much like the banana that the uninitiated cannot detect the difference. An American occupied the compartment with us and he told us that we must cross a bamboo bridge of some 300 yards length, about 3 ft. wide, with the hand rail broken in many places and the woven floor broken in many places also, so there was danger of falling through. The bridge was about 20 ft. above the water, but the water was not deep he assured us. He had so well worked up by the time we arrived. It was as dark as a pocket, and only two lanterns came to meet our party of 8. We walked on the railroad track, crossed a railroad bridge, all the time dreading the long bamboo bridge. Instead we came to a little ferry composed of two canoes placed side by side and covered with a woven bamboo floor, bamboo side rails and cover and pulled back and forth by a rattan used as a rope, the natural rattan reaching across the river. It was a weird experience in the dark night, only the faint flicker of the lanterns being visible. The ferry had to cross twice to carry us all. After a few blocks more we arrived at the Pagsanban Hotel, which was delightfully clean and comfortable. The food was plentiful, although not skillfully cooked. Our nets caged some black mosquitos which registered 31 bites on me during the night. Otherwise I arose at 6 a.m. refreshed. At about 7 we made our arrangements to depart for the Gorge. Clad in a borrowed raincoat, rubbers and a borrowed strawhat, I joined the others at the back of the hotel, where eight canoes awaited us each rowed by two boys and carrying one passenger. We sat comfortable against a chair back in the bottom, and in a mild rain -31- were rowed down a peaceful river, bordered by gentle hills covered with cocoanuts and big bamboos bent lovingly over the banks. Many palms of other varieties, bananas and a wild profusion of vines trailing from one tree to another, was picturesquely beautiful on all sides. Soon we came to a bed of big rocks which made a wild rapids. It looked skittish, but our boys jumped into the water, and wading through pulled the canoes after them. There was a space of more smooth surface, then a wilder and deeper rapids; more river and still wider and deeper rapids, then more placid water. At the fourth rapids which looked well night impassable, the Dr., Mr.Del Pan and I turned back, the young people all dressed in bathing costumes went on, for now the passengers too had to get out and scramble over the rocks. For some time we had been in the Gorge, a circuitous split in a mountain, with straight precipitous sides, covered with moss, vines and small trees and crowned with palms. Sometimes a sufficient space was allowed for a wide river, sometimes it was very narrow. Everywhere it was wild, beautiful, peaceful. Beyond the point where we turned back the Gorge was narrower and at the end was a large waterfall. We saw three of the falls which fell from the table above. Often the turn in The Gorge is so abrupt that it seemed as if we were in a Lake. The return was more enjoyable, since we floated down stream. The rain ceased, the sun came out and the surface of the water reflected the trees on its bank. One little view was exquisite. A woman was kneeling by the river's edge washing white clothes. She was dressed in a scarlet camisa, and over her like a canopy hung the feathery branches of a bamboo. The green, the white and the red were reflected in the water, and would have made an -32- artist snatch his paint box. Upon our return we visited a spring where the people come for drinking water and where a fine spray in a stone bath house permits a "mandy" or Dutch bath. We visited the market. We always see new things. Here in the Philippines, they bring Ducks eggs within about four days of hatching, by burying them in hot rice which they reheat each day. By this time the duckling is formed, but has not many feathers nor hard bones. They boil these eggs and they are considered a great luxury. An old woman offered us one, when we stopped to watch her eat one, but we were not curious. They also bury ducks eggs, fresh in mud and salt and after a time the salt percolates through the egg and they are also a delicacy. Then we visited a tumbledown building where we found four school rooms with some 300 little primary boys and girls under Filipino teachers. There is also a high school in the hills, but there is not room for these little ones. We saw canoes rowed by fathers and big brothers carrying these little ones with their books and slates when we went down the river,for the schools here begin at 7:30. The banks of the river only rarely revealed a house, but there are many hidden in the cocoanut groves. Mr. Del Pan says it is an old saying that the cocoanut is a coquette, for she only grows where there is a glass in which to look at herself, which means that the tree grows best near water. The town of Pagsanban is very quaint and picturesque, containing a stone church of 1690, several stone walls with quaint gates, grass and moss grown. Upon our return we drove in carcomettas to the Lake (La Laguna) through Santa Cruz. We -33- found Pagsanban had an imposing cement gate with three entrances, just as there are in Berlin, where the middle one is for the Kaiser, the others for the common folk. Long after walls ceased to be needed by towns, they apparently built gates, a good example of how the world holds the form of old things long after the need or the meaning is gone. We found at Santa Cruz a fine Government Building for the Province of La Laguna. We returned through the rain without event, arriving at the hotel at 7:30. It was not a comfortable trip, but one well worth while. We wish we could have a picture of all the vehicles we have driven in. The Dr. is small, yet the carometta was so narrow that it made me black and blue on my hip, and I had to take my hat off. The Dr. had a private talk with Mr. DelPam which she took some satisfaction in repeating to me, although he had begged her not to hurt my feelings. He says he is not liked by either Filipinos or Americans because he tells both sides what he thinks. I believe this, and he is in general a very fair-minded man, but naturally with a bias against the American administration and favorable to the Spanish. He says the Cable News and the Times say all good things of Americans and all bad things of the Filipinos, and that the Free Press and the Guardia do the reverse. The attitude of those four papers are ever widening the differences between the Filipinos and Americans. I believe this. He says the Americans spend the money which comes from the Filipinos on those things which help American property - and on Bagio which is used by Americans, and that tennis and golf links have been put up there but only Americans are permitted to play. That schools are conducted only to introduce English,which is unpleasing to the old ones who only know Spanish. The Filipinos -34- expect Japan to come and seize them and believe that the U.S. is too far off to protect them. They think if they had independence they could get all the other nations aroused to protect them against Japan upon the claim of a general fear of "the yellow peril." The plain truth is no nation is good enough to rule another, but this conquering of Asia by Europe is undoubtedly awaking the sleeping millions into some sense of their backwardness, and although antagonisms exist everywhere between the natives and the overlords, which makes life somewhat irritating to those who live in the midst of it, yet these are growing pains which will make these children of the race grow into sturdier nations by and bye. Meanwhile, it should be the aim and never forgotten object of each European and American nation, to be honest, philanthropic human guardians or trustees over their respective charges. These Western nations hold their tenure by military not ethical titles, and there is a tendency to emphasize the character of the title. Alas, no man is fit to rule another and no nation is fit to rule another people. Mr. Del Pan, who is exceedingly well informed and well read, told us it is an old saying of the Filipino that the monkey knows very well how to talk, but he never speaks in the presence of man, for is he did he would have a tax on his head. (The cedula (or poll tax) was an old device of the Spaniards and has continued under the Americans.) He told us that Rizal, who was called the elder brother of the Malay race, and who did write some very fine philosophy concerning the needs of these people, and for his talents was hung by the spaniards, had one Spanish and one Chinese ancestor. He claims that the Filipinos are a much more mixed people than is -35- usually supposed because for 300 years there have been constant migrations of young men from Spain, Mexico, China, Japan, England, France, etc., and now America. These men never brought their wives but found them here. Mr. D.P. puts it well. "These men had no race prejudices in matters of love and marriage." A few nights ago we saw a sample . We went in an auto at 9 p.m. with Mr. Rice and Mrs. MacVeagh of our hotel to the Santa Ana dance hall. This is one of many in Manila and the provinces. They are now controlled somewhat, but are an inherited institution from old times. Men sit on one side and women on the other. The men are mainly soldiers, the women young girls. A band plays four minutes and rests one. When it begins as many men as wish to dance, cross the women and select partners. Each girl carries a palm leaf fan which she puts between her and the man. Whether this protects her modesty or allows the man to get near enough to keep the fan from dropping, I do not know. When the music stops, the man pays the girl 20 centavos, or 10 cts., and she walks to the cashier who takes 10 centavos for the hall and gives her 10. A girl makes from 1 to 3 pesos (50 cts. to 1.50) per evening, and she can only make 1 peso in a week by embroidery I think. Everything was respectable in appearance. The hall closes at 12 m. On the man's side are tables and when not dancing most men are drinking and all smoking. At midnight, what happens? It is not difficult to conjecture! We attempted to go to another dance hall. We never arrived, and we did get back to the hotel in two calesos at midnight, having escaped in a man's arms from an auto stuck in the mud by means of a carometta, a wait under a dripping cave, with curious natives looking on, and -36- then a calesa with a driver who wore a raincoat made of palm leaves. The details are not likely to be forgotten by the participants, and need no recording. I have had a meeting of American women and one of Filipinos to talk over organization. It is plain the American women are afraid of the question lest it hurts them with the men, and the Filipinos are afraid of the ridicule of men - both rather weak fiber. HongKong, Aug. 20,1912. I succeeded in effecting a "Society for the Advancement of Women" with eight officers, half American and half Filipino. As this is the first society where the two races have united in work, and as the officers are collectively and separately the best the Island afford, I should feel truly happy over it, if there was a strong motive to hold them together. They will study the question; I can only hope that their study will develop a little backbone. The president, Mrs. Lobenger of Omaha, is the wife of a Judge of the Court of First Instance, and is excellent. One of the last days we went to see a cigar factory. Some were on strike. We saw the best, most sanitary, highest conditions in this one - 1500 people employed, fully half appeared to be women although the Director said about one third were women. There were four floors. Between 7 and 8 millions of cigarettes are turned out daily and nearly all are consumed in the Islands. Most are made my machinery which comes from Barcelona (Spain). Paper tubes are first made by the machine. Anotherfills and cuts the paper off. Women do not do mchine work, -37- but do all the other processes. Packages of 25 completed cigarettes are wrapped in paper previously printed and a girl is expected to put up about 3,000 in a day. They are all paid by piece work. The highest pay for men is 25 pesos or $12.50, for women 8 pesos or $4.00. Men do the best paid kinds of work. Choice handmade cigars, shipped in tinfoil or glass test tubes, are made by them. We did not believe the girls get anything like $4. per week, but we could not find out what they did get. One girl, wrapping packages, who looked about 14, was so quick as to be marvelous. These factories, of which there are 16 in Manila, all employ child labor, and work their people 14 hours. This particular factory had excellent ventilation, and as it was a fairly cool day, the air did not seem bad. At the entrance was a woman with two little children. She was a searcher. Whenever a woman left her place of work to go out, this woman examined her clothing to see that she carried away no tobacco. Men searchers examined the men. At the door women with little restaurants sold roasted corn and native food to whoever came for it. The food was not nutritious nor digestible. All my old hatred for tobacco came back when I saw the slavery of the hundreds of young workers, with every possibility of nervous force stimulated to the utmost, in order to brind dividends to the proprietors, who in turn are supplying poison to the multitude. Every man, woman, boy and girl of the middle and lower classes smokes cigarettes. Every man of all classes smokes, and this they do continuously. They do not know how to live unless a cigarette is in the mouth or between the fingers. Our last day was a busy one, as our steamer left a day -38- before due. I found by accident two Filipino ladies sitting in the lobby waiting for me. They came to take me to a Filipino private boarding school where I had promised to go, but had sent word I could not. However, we jumped into a motor and sped far away. The distances in Manila rival those of New York. There I found 400 girl students, representing 18 Provinces, assembled to meet me, under the guidance of the dearest little Filipino woman, Senorita Evalino. They showed me their embroidery, and sang for me. The uniform is pink. The little girls wore pink European dresses. The older ones had pink skirts with the usual long impractical trains, and their camisas and kerchiefs were all the shades of pink from nearly white to a deep rose. It was an audacious color for a uniform, but becoming to the brown beauties. When I returned to the hotel, I found Mrs.Quinan and Mrs. Peacock and Mr. Linnell had been in to say good-bye. It had been the intention for all to go out on the "Columbia" a launch of the company, to see us off, but the steamer decided not to go until - 9 p.m. I was sorry to miss them. Mrs.Quinan brought the Review of Reviews and a box of candy from the two boys; Mrs. Peacock a book. Mr. Linnell, who was dining out, came in later. I had bought a doll for little Gladys and asked him to bring her around after it, but he was too busy. I planned to take it to the office, and after having kept it a week I opened the box. Its red stockings were green with mold, and splotches of it were everywhere. In fact, all Manila turns green during the rainy season and everything smells mouldy. Mr. Quinan and Howard came after us in their motor and took us out to our ship on the "Columbia." It was a pleasant experience. The Company paid -39- our livery bill, which must have been big. It was most generous, but I felt rather like a yellow dog to take it. Our ship was "Prince Sigesmund" of the German Lloyd, on its way from Australia to Hongkong. The meals were horrid after the Manila Hotel. The beds were good, the air hot, the sea smooth. There were not decent chairs on the deck, and no cool place. The trip was tolerable, not enjoyable. Thus we left Manila behind, and I have not recorded a tenth of daily doings. I was busy going, seeing people, shopping and reading about things there in order to try to understand the situation. The Filipinos want independence - some now, some willing to wait. Meanwhile, the U.S. is drilling 40,000 armed natives. A mutiny someday will be interesting. On the other hand, the children are being civilized by English, industry and a little education. The unstability of affairs makes some Capitalists afraid to invest. Others have invested and bank upon the certainty of the U.S. defending their property. That is the way its done. Some people begin to make money in a foreign country; then there is trouble; then the country to which the money belongs threshes those who rebel and take a chunk of their territory as a punishment for not setting tight. Then when they are properly subdued, the overlord says, these people do not want independence, they are lazy and satisfied! I have ordered 89 or 90 slides of the Philippines. In addition I have photos 1 - 57. A young Spaniard who went with us to Pagsanyan brought us four photos he had taken -"58 and 59" are the young people in the canoes. 60 gives a good picture of Mr. Del Pan standing by Dr.Jacobs. 61 reveals Dr.J's smiling countenance, with the rest of us forming a modest background. Transcribed and reviewed by volunteers participating in the By The People project at crowd.loc.gov.