FEINBERG/WHITMAN DIARIES etc DIARIES June-Aug. 1880. Diary in Canada. Vol 2 (8CN63) Box 2 Folder 3 761 1880 June 18 - Aug. DIARY IN CANADA. A.MS. (41, 84 p. Various sizes) Bound in two volumes of 41 p. (June 18-July 18, 1880) and 84 p. with autograph title: "St. Lawrence & Saguenay trip July & Aug. 1880." The diary was written on Whitman's trip to Canada for which he had been invited by Dr. Bucke. The diary was later published in Boston 1904, under title: Walt Whitman's Diary in Canada, edited by W. S. Kennedy. Although most of the original manuscript material was used in the printed form, many unpublished notes and variant readings were omitted, as well as fragments in prose and poetry written on versos of some of the leaves. The first volume contains also an excerpt of an "Interview with the author of Leaves of Grass and autographed portrait dated Sept. 22, 1880. The second volume includes three maps and two tables which were used by Walt Whitman on his trip; also six views and a signed portrait. A description of Quebec City and province, probably written for some newspaper, was not printed in the published form. It reads in part: "Walt Whitman is at Quebec, delighted with the queer old French city . . . He especially admires, all through the province . . . the perpetual recurrence of pretty towns and villages . . .". {63} Walt Whitman Walt Whitman London, Canada Sept 22, 1880 280 Dundas St London, Ontario Walt Whitman Diary in Canada Original Manuscript 1880 A trip down the St Lawrence and Saguenay Rivers This Diary was Edited by Wm. Sloane Kennedy and Published in 1904 by Maynard Small & Co. Boston Walt Whitman London, Canada Sept 22, 1880 280 Dundas St. London, Ontario Walt Whitman Diary in Canada Original Manuscript 1880 A trip down the St. Lawrence and Saguenay Rivers This Diary was Edited by Wm. Sloane Kennedy and Published in 1904 by Maynard Small & Co. Boston 78 St. Lawrence Saguenay trip July & Aug 1880 Quebec notes Asylum for the Insane, London, 18 Isabel [?] Asylum Hamilton Distances miles Sarnia to London 60 London to Toronto 120 Toronto to Kingston 161 Kingston to Montreal 172 Montreal to Quebec 180 Quebec to Tadousac 134 Tadousac to Chicoutimi 101 908 from Phila: to London about 520 miles [*453*] [leave] left London [*see back*] July 26 -- 840 am [arrive] by Great Western RR -- arrived at Toronto -- at noon same day (July 26) le?ft Toronto, noon 27th by steamboat Algerian arrived at Kingston early a.m. 28th ?t?? at Kingston 6 days (Dr Metcalf) Thousand Island Hub House left Kingston Aug 3d at 5 am got to Montreal same evening (Aug 3d) staid there BN? left 5th pm. --on to Quebec & [leave Quebec Aug 6 am immediately] (4[th]) by Quebec [get to] [my?] car. The [air is] cool, moist, just right, and the sky veiled. We pass through the [thring?] towns [brown top page] Tadousa - get there evening the 6th of 6th same evening - Stay there Leave [?the?] night (of 6th) 1.5 days - then (6 [??]) in steamer [?Sagueney?] same night & up the Saguenay (voyage up night) reached Chicoutimi & next morning Ha-ha-ha-ha night the Saguenay - down x again Saturday (7th) to Tadousac ( ta'j - oo - sak ) - (saw see Cape Eternity & Trinity Rock) pass Tadousac & River on Look 4 pm 7th reached Quebec (on our return now remember) on Sunday 8th at 730 am (cloudy wet [?morning?] morning). - Staid over Sunday & Monday left on the 9th at 5 pm on go to "Montreal" am in M 10th at 8 am - then straight through in the steamboat to Hamilton Toronto August 12 am [?m?] Algernon home on the 14th thence 1030am to Hamilton 12th August by Rail Road back home to London August 14 [cream under page] womy oar) [?She?] ate [??] cool, moist, just right and the sky veiled. We pass through the [?three?] towns Canada 41 July 26 1880 Started this morning at 840 from London for Toronto 120 miles by RR - I am writing this on the car, very comfort- able - We are now (10-11 am) passing through a beautiful country - -it rained hard last night & showery this morning - and every thing is looking bright [fresh] & green. I am enjoying the [RR] ride, (in a big easy RR chair in a roomy car) The [air] atmosphere is cool, moist, just right and the sky veiled. We pass through the (thriving?) towns Canada - July '80 of Ingersoll, Wppdstock Paris, Harrisburgh Dund Insufficient & on to Hamilton (80 minutes through counties) all pleasant, fertile country sufficient diversified frequent sign of cleared land not long cleared, [plenty of] black stumps (often the fields fenced with the roots of them) - patches of beautiful woods. beech, fine elms, - thrifty - [of] apple orchard, the [?] grain and wheat mostly harvested barley, legume oats almost ready, good farms - some good farms - (a little hilly between Dundas & Hamilton X am the same on to Toronto_ Corn looking well, potatoes ditto but the great show charm of my ride is from Hamilton a bustle city Asylum for the Insane, London,________________________________18 as we approach Toronto every thing looks doubly[?] beautiful - especially the [?] of blue Ontario's waters, sunlit, yet with a slight hare through which occasionally a distant [?] In Toronto at half past 1, I rode up on top of the omnibus with the driver - the city made the impression on me of a lively dashing[?] place The lake gives it its character Asylum for the Insane, London, 18 Canada in Toronto, July 27 '80 Front St, wholesale pretty solid and Church street King street, stores, ladies Shopping ("the Broadway") Sherbourne st Jarvis st &c long and elegant streets of semi-rural residences, many of them very costly & beautiful The horse-chestnut is the prevalent tree – you see it everywhere The mountain-ash now with its bunches of red berries Queen's Park The Insane Asylum Mercer's Reformatory for Females Toronto University with its Roman architecture, and ample grounds. Knox college Mr Dent Mr Tully the architect Asylum for the Insane, London ................................... 18 .. James W. Slocum 24 Macomb Avenue Detroit Michigan Wagner Car Conductor June 27 Canada I write this in Toronto, aboard the steamboat, the Algerian, 2 o'clock pm. We are [just] presently off. The boat [with] from Lewiston, New York, has just come in - the usual hurry [&] with passengers & freight – and as I write, I hear the pilot's bells, the thud of hawsers unloosened, and [and] feel the boat squirming [l] slowly from her ties, out into [the water's] freedom. We are off. off into Toronto bay, ([and] soon the wide expanse & cool breezes of Lake Ontario) As we Asylum for the Insane, London_______________________ steam out a mile or so, we get a pretty view of Toronto, from the blue foreground of the waters- the whole rising spread of the city, [?] of the roofs, spires trees[?], hills in the background Good bye Toronto, with your memories of a very lively & agreeable visit Sherbourne & Mr Dent, Dr Clarke & Jarvis sts young Janet Slocum long streets fine residences Front Church business King & & stores Yonge sts King st The Broadway Asylum for the Insane, London, ................................................................................18 .......... Asylum for the Insane, London 18 A Day & Night on Canada A Day on Lake Ontario Lake Ontario On Lake Ontario July 27 '80 (going from Toronto to Kingston) we start from Toronto about 2 pm in the Hamilton and Quebec steamboat, [pretty] (middling good- sized and comfortable [for] carrying shore freight and summer passengers.) (See back for times) the whole length of Lake Ontario Quite a voyage - [the] [The whole afternoon is] very enjoyable day - clear, breezy, and cool enough for me to wrap my blanket around me [at times] as the [day lengthens] as I pace the upper deck - For the first 60 or 70 miles we [lean] keep near the Canadian shore - -of course no land in sight the other side - Stop at Port Hope, Coburg, etc - and then stretch out toward the mid-waters of the lake. I pace the deck or sit till pretty late wrapt in my blanket enjoying all, the coolness, darkness - and then to my berth awhile. Asylum for the Insane, London,___________________________18' Canada - July 27 ‘80 rose soon after 3 to come out on deck and enjoy a magnificent night-show before dawn. Overhead, the [The] moon , at her half and half. and waning [and at her half] with lustrous Jupiter, and Saturn, [were in] made a two-cluster close together, [overhead], in the purest of skies — with the groups of the Pleiades and Hyades following [of then] a little to the east. The light off on the islands and rocks, the splashing waters the many shadowy shores and passengers through them, in the crystal atmosphere. The dawns streaks of faint red and yellow in the east, [and much else] made a [wondrous] good hour [and over] for me. We landed on Kingston wharf just at sunrise. Lake Ontario Lake O is 234 feet above sea-level. (Huron is over 500 and Superior over 600) The chain of Lakes over rivers St Lawrence drain 400,000 spare miles. The rain fall on this vast area average annually a depth of 30 inches - so that the existences and supply of these the river fed by such inland precedes seas is a matter of very simple calculations after all Asylum for the Insane, London ________________________ Canada July 29 '80 July 28 - To day [This afternoon & evening] Dr M. took me in his steam yacht, a [? good] long, lively varied voyage down among the Lakes of the Thousand Islands. [Dr M. took me in his little steam yacht] we went swiftly on east of Kingstown, through cuts, channels, lagoons, and out across lakes - numbers of islands always in sight - often, as we steamed by, some almost grazing us - rocks and cedars- occasionally [some members of] a camping party on the shores, perhaps fishing - a little sea [some] swells on the water- on our return Evening deepened[?] [came on], bringing [long? with] a miracle of sunset I could have gone on thusly for days over the savage-tame beautiful [element?]. -We had some good [Italian] music from one of Verdi's compositions the band of B battery, as [we lay off] hauled in shore anchored and listened in the twilight (to the slapping rocking gurgle of our boat) Later when we reached home Asylum for the Insane, London ..................... 18..... July 29 - This forenoon a long ride through the streets of Kingston and so out into the country, and The Lake shore road describe Kingston Kingston has a population of 15000 [Oh] [They have] [some] The place is a military station (B battery) shows quite a fort and half a dozen old Martello towers, (like big conical-topt pound cakes.) It is a pretty town of 15000 inhabitants Asylum for the Insane, London,___________ 18___ the St Lawrence, including all the Lakes etc. from the sea to Duluth is over 2500 miles ___ vessels of 800 tons can now go through; soon 1400 tons ________________ Asylum for the Insane, London, _____________18___ Canada July 31 '80 Lakes of the Thousand Islands Saturday Evening July 31 '80 - I am writing this at [at] & after sundown in the central portion ("American side" as they call it here) of the Lakes of the Thousand Islands, 25 miles east of Kingston, [All is] [Evening] The scene is made up of the most beautiful and ample waters, twenty or thirty woody and rocky islands ( [some] varying in size, some large, [some] others small, other middling) the distant shores of the New York side, some [white] puffing steamboats in the Asylum for the Insane, London, _____________________ 18____ open waters, and numerous skiffs and row-boats.- all showing [to] as minute specks in the amplitude and primal naturalness The brooding waters, the cool and delicious air, the [long twilight] long evening with its transparent half-lights [over] the glistening and faintly-slapping waves - the circles of swallows, gamboling and piping - I am [early about] up & down here for two or three, the guest of Dr M in his steam yacht [add p. at end of this diary Canada Aug 1 '80 - Sunday noon - [I am still in the] still among The Thousand Islands, (This is about the center of them stretching 25 miles to the east and the same distance west The beauty of the spot all through the day the sunlit the bonny breeze. waters the rocky and cedar - browzed islets the larger islands with fields and farms. The [white-sail'd]. white - wing'd yachts and shooting row boats, - and over all the blue sky arching copious - make a sane calm, eternal picture to [the] eyes [and] senses [of] and my soul Land of the purest Air Land of the Lakes and Woods Asylum for the Insane, London, ______________________18____ Canada Lakes of Thousand Island Aug 1 - Evening - an unusual show of boats gaily darting over the waters in every direction - not a poor model among them, and many of exquisite beauty, [and] grace, and speed. It is a precious experience, one of these long midsummer twilights in these waters, and this atmosphere. Land of pure air! Land of unnumbered lakes! Land of the islets & the woods Canada Lakes of thousand Islands - a steady south west wind Aug 2 - early morning - the fresh peculiar atmosphere of the hour & place worth coming a thousand miles to get. O'er the water the gray rock and dark - green cedars of a score of big and little island around me. The added splendour of sunrise. As I sit, the sound of slapping water to me most musical of sounds One peculiarity as you go about among the islands or stop at them, is the entire [of] absence of horses & wagons. Plenty of small boats however and always very handsome ones. Even the women now and sail skiffs. Often the men here build their boats themselves Asylum for the Insane, London____________________ Canada Aug 2 '80 - Forenoon, a run of [four] three hours (some thirty miles through the islands and lakes in the "Princess Louise" to Kingston. Saw the whole scene, with its sylvan rocky and aquatic loveliness to fine advantage. Such amplitude- room enough here for the summer recreation of all North America Gananoque Places of Interest In and About Montreal Court House Jesuit Church New Post Office The Drive around the New City Hall [Mountain Bank of Montreal Hotel Dieu Hospital McGill College The Drive to Lachine English Cathedral Grey Nunnery French Cathedral Victoria Bridge The Drive to the Mountain Park Distance from Montreal to Quebec........180 Kingston.....172 White Mountains.....201 Toronto.....333 Saratoga.........212 Hamilton.....372 Albany ......261 Niagara Falls.....400 New York.....406 Detroit......547 Boston....332 Chicago.....831 Ottawa....116 St. Louis......1126 [***332-172=161] Canada Aug '80 Aug 4 - In Montreal- guest of Dr. T S H. [Delightful] Genial host, delightful quarters, good sleep. [Good] Explore the city leisurely, but quite thoroughly: St James' Street with its handsome shops. Victoria Bridge, the great [log Cathedral] French church, the English Cathedral, the old French church of Notre Dame de Bonsecours, the [gr?????] place I ever saw the handsome new peculiarly and lavishly ornamented church of Notre Dame de Lourdes the French streets of middle [or] life with their signs city of 150,000 people very bustling principal city north of the St Lawrence the Hotel Dieu hospital Asylum for the Insane, London__________________18 but the principal character of Montreal to me, was from a drive along the street looking down on the river front & the wharves where the [S]steamships twenty or more of them some lay as handsome and large as I ever saw, beautiful models, [tr???], two or three, [or four] hundreds feet long, some moving out, one or two coming in - plenty of room, and fine dockage with heavy masonry banks. Asylum for the Insane London______________________18 Canada - Aug 5 '80 forenoon Three hours on Mount Royal, the great hill & Park back of Montreal. Aug 5 [forenoon] [oscupied?] spent the forenoon [with?] on a leisurely most pleasant drive on [the] and about this hill- [fine] many views [for] of the city below, - in the clean air the waters of the St. Lawrence- the Adirondacks 50 miles or more distant -the [good roads,] excellent roads, miles of them, [forever] [zig zagging??? around]- [?r] up hills and down to the plentiful woods, oak, pine, hickory- the French sign boards Passer a Droite - as we zip-zag around the splendid views. Distances, waters, mountains, vistas, some of them quite unsurpassable- -the continual surprises of fine trees in groups or singly- -the grand, rocky, natural escarpments- frequently open spaces, larger or smaller, with patches of golden rod, or white yarrow or along the road the red fire-weed or Scotch thistle in bloom -just -the great hill itself with its rocks & trees unmolested by any impertinence of ornamentation Asylum for the Insane, London_______________18 Canada Aug '80 Sunrise - the St L near Quebec Aug 5 - Have just seen [the] the great round dazzling ball sunrise, straight ahead over the broad waters-a rare view,-standing on the extreme bow of the boat. The shores pleasantly thick dotted with houses- the river here wide, calm, and looking beautiful in the golden morning's sheen. As we advance north-east the earthen banks high and shear [ (eath, no rocks) ] quite thickly wooded. - [Bright calm, stately sun-rise sea like waters spreading here so amply] - [the] thin Dawn [has] mists quickly resolving - [the powerful orb mounting the heavens] - the youthful strong warm forenoon [inserting itself] over the [noble waters and] high green bluffs Asylum of the Insane London___________________18 Aug 5-6 [It] along the banks as we steam rapidly little white houses seen through the verdure - occasionally a pretensive mansion, a mill, a two tower'd church [glistening] with steeples in [in zinc.] burnish'd tin. A very pretty shore, miles of it sitting up high, well-sprinkled with swelling of habitans [and] farmers, fishermen, French cottagers, & [????] co-verdant everywhere (but no big trees) for 50 miles before coming to Quebec. These little [villages] rural cluster towns just back from the bank-bluffs, [very pretty] so happy and peaceful looking. I saw them [with] through my glass, + everything quite minutely & fully. In one such [little] town of perhaps two hundred houses on sloping ground, [a little back from the ?? ?? bluff fringe of Dense green] the old church with glistening spire stood in the middle [with] and quite a large grave yard around it. [and] I could see the white head-stones [and] almost plainly enough to count them. Asylum for the Insane, London________________________18 Canada Aug 6 '80 ***4*** (3) [nearing] Approaching Quebec rocks & rocky [even] banks again. for many miles the shores lined with immense rafts of logs and partially hewn timber, the hills more broken & [picturesque] abrupt, the higher shores crowded with [little] many fine Dormer-windowed houses. [Shipping] Sailing ships appear in clusters with their weather-beaten spars & furled [sails] canvas. The river still amble and grand, the banks [high] bold [&], plenty of [of] round turns and [pron?????],-plenty of grey rock cropping out. Rafts, rafts of logs everywhere. The high [fort] rocky citadel [on its po] thrusting itself out- altogether perhaps [the] at any rate as you approach it on waters, the sun two hours high as picturesque an appearing city [yet] as there is on earth. **Asylum for the Insane London .....18 Canada Aug 6 Quebec ***5*** (4) [below]To the east of Quebec we pass the large fertile Island of Orleans -- the fields [are cut] divided in long lateral strips across the island, and appearing to be closely cultivated. [In one field] In one I notice them getting in the hay, [loading and hauling it] loading and hauling it, a woman assisting. The view and scene continue [imutably] [becau] broad and beautiful. under the forenoon sun- around me an expanse of waters stretch [out of sight] fore & aft as far as I can see -- outlines of [high] mountains in the [far] distance north and south - of the [most] farthest [Distant] ones the bulk and the crest-lines and showing [very delicate] through [the pretty] strong but delicate haze like gray [?] ** Asylum for the Insane London....18** Aug 6th night - we are steam'g up the Saguenay (5) *[add HaHa May forward] Sunrise - northern lights every night as with overcoat on, or wrapt in my blanket I plant myself on the forward deck 235 180 403 100 ______ 918 From Quebec to Chicon 235 ( slightly enss of transport I am here nearly 1000 miles I was of Montreal & Quebec from in the .se. steak ^ in the strangest county point Had a good nights slap - but up cold - over coat- before Sunrise - Northern lights every with as with overcoat on or wrapt in my blankets I plant myself on the forward desk 235 180 403 100 --------- 918 [Buffalo, noon, Friday All right, so far- had a very good trip & a good sleeper & bed, & accommodations — best RR track I ever travelled over — had good breakfast at 8 at Hornellsville — am now about 430 miles from Phila: I believe — — am feeling all right] Canada Aug '80 16 6 Aug 6 and 7- Ha-ha bay. Up the black Saguenay river, a hundred or so miles — [a] dashes of the grimmest, wildest, savagest scenery on the planet [I guess-] — a strong, deep [river] (almost hundreds of feet, sometimes thousands) dark — water'd river, very dark with high rocky hills — green and gray edged rocks in all directions — no flowers, no fruits (plenty of delicious wild blue-berries and raspberries up at Checoutery though and Ha-ha bay — this craft skillfull[y] & well [?]ng themselves, small interest in the outside world of ([??] politics, changes news fashions) industrious yet taking life very leisurely, with much dancing and music [*fashionably*] but they get away soon — it is [pretty] almost cold except the middles of [some] a few [of the] July & August days [left side : half underneath page] ost hours 18 of on the forward night - latter, have to [preprint]the Insane,[/preprint] et around me besides [preprint] London, 18 [/preprint] every night _ [left side : half overlay page] Friday had a very good trip accommodations _ best Rail Road ver _ had good breakfast _ am now about 430 believe _ [right side : top overlay 1/3 page] 127.5 17 1/2 The priests - Saw them on the every boat and and at every landing : at Tadousac came a large and handsome yacht, manned and evidently owned by them to bring some departing passengers of their cloth & take off on others. It looked funny to me at first to see this the movement ropes and tiller handled by these long black gowns; swarming black birds; it must be said too but I soon saw that they sailed the this craft skilfully & well. [right side : middle overlay 1/3 page] ing themselves, [?ing?] small interest in the outside world ( of politics, changes, news, fashions ) industrious yet taking life very leisurely, with much dancing and music [right side : bottom underneath 1/3 page] fashionably out they get away soon - it is pretty almost cold except the middles of some of the a few July & August days [*17*] simple, middling industrious, merry, devout Catholic a church every where, (priests in their black gowns everywhere, often groups of handsome young fellows) [ton] life toned low, few luxuries, none of the modern improvements, no hurry often big families of children, [not] nobody "progressive", all apparently living and moving entirely among themselves, taking small interest in the outside world of —( [p] politics, changes, news, fashions)— industrious yet taking life very leisurely with much dancing and music [*fashionably*] but they get away soon it is [pretty] almost cold except the middles of [some] a few [of the] July & August days Asylum for the Insame, London .................. good trip — best RR ood breakfast about 430 Again I steam over the Saguenay['s brown-black waters] [I see] The brown - black waters and the thin lines streaks of white curd, and the dazzling [silver] sun-dash on the stream [The] The banks of grim grey mountains and the rocks, [are keep the banks] [I see] The grim and savage scene [*Fancies at Wavesink the Pilot in the Mist*] [made a good breakfast of sea-trout finishing off with wild raspberries] hotels here, a few fashionably but they get away soon — it is [pretty] almost cold except the middles of [some] [of the] a few July & August days Asylum for the Insane London,--------18 trinity [&] rock [Ete] Cape Eternity [great calm eternal rock everywhere — a matted green covering the mountain sides] The inhabitants peculiar to our eyes - many marked characters, [ways] looks, by plays, costumes, &c. that would make the fortunes of [an] actors [that] who could reproduce them very picturesque in color or form) — all the scenes at the piers as we came [for] to leave or take passengers and freight, especially many of the native Asylum f Asylum for the ***3*** More or less aquatic character runs through the people. There the two influences of French & [Englis] British contribute a curious by play continual Hamlets and villages of [white] one - story white washed houses [?] very picturesque in color [a?] form) - all the scenes at the piers as we land [for] to leave or take passengers and freight, especially many of the natives Asylum for the Insane, London ? on the Saguenay [Many] Contrasts, all the while, at [one place] this place [St. Paul's bay,] backed by these mountains high & bold, nestled down [the] [l] hamlet of St. Pierre, apparently below the level of the bay, and very secluded and cosy. Then two or three miles further on saw a larger town high up on [a] the plateau. At St Paul's bay a stronger cast of scenery, many rugged peaks. [one] with an air of faded gentility — on the water, the scul craft and steamers we pass, out in the stream, the rolling and turning up of the white-bellied porpoises, some special island or rock (often very picturesque in color or form) — all the scenes at the piers as we land [for] to leave or take passengers and freight, especially many of the natives [left side : overlay 1/2 page] st three Days of some of the [?gr?] tallest Ha-ha bay 1 August 7 80 north from Phila a hundred miles a very [?apt the?] Saguenay river es [?w?] [?about?] Strongest [?region?] you ever see - it am writing this on the forward Deck of the [preprint]for the Insane,[/preprint] good breakfast & am feeling pretty [?ing cruiky?] [preprint]London, 18[/preprint] savage [?scene?] [?Frocks?] in sight everywhere - ee, the water a dark brown black as [?Tohutonies?] like nite _ The at Ha! ha bay rod of the people here as we get ready to start , are a good study to me - h here you Know, 4 (four) am now travelling where I have been for [?f?] of French) [right side : page] [red]14[/red] on the st L [image: drawing] [?Squenuey?] the noticeable items n land the long boxes of blue-berries we had over a thousand of them brought carried on board at at Ha-ha bay, the day I came down) one day I was on the River) the groups of fat "boarders," both men and women (retaining all their most refined toggery) - the queer vehicles, some "calashes" many ([?Whear?] old one-horse top-wagons, every one with an air of faded gentility - on the water, the scul craft and steamers we pass, - out in the stream, the rolling and turning up of the white-bellied porpoises, some special island or rock (often very picturesque in color [?or?] form) - all the scenes at the piers as we land to leave or take for passengers and freight, especially, many of the [?natives?] Asylum for the Insane, London……………….18….. the changing as part of the light and the marvellous study [it is] from that alone, every hour of the day or night [either] — the Indescribable sunsets and sunrises (I often see the latter now — the glorious nights and the stars Arcturus and Vega and Jupiter and Saturn and the constellations of the Scorpion. The scenes at breakfast and other meal-times and what an appetite one gets) — — the delicious fish ( I mean from the cook's fire hot) (I had a good opera glass and made constant use of it, sweeping every shore) Northern lights every night Asylum for the Insane, London…………….18…... Canada Aug '80 Quebec [come from] from the river- Aug 8 '80 Imagine (the angles, each a mile long of) a high rocky [angular] hill flush & bold to the river with plateau on top, the front handsomely presented to the south & east we are [coming] streaming up the river on the principal height still flush with the [river] stream, a vast stone fort, the most conspicuous object [from the] in view [river] — the magnificent [river] St Lawrence itself— many hills and ascents and [for] tall edifices [in] shown at their best, and steeples — the handsome town of Point Levi opposite — a long low sea-steamer just [starting] hauling out Asylum for the Insane London_________________18 John Richardson A Battery Citadel Quebec Canada '80 **7** Aug 8 - Sunday fornoon - A [long] leisurely varied drive around the city, stopping a dozen times and more. [W] I went into the citadel . [I walked] talked with the soldiers - (over 100 here. Battery A., canadian militia, the regulars having long since departed. A [strong] fort under the old dispensation, strong and picturesque as Gibraltar.) Then [we went] to several Catholic churches, and to the Esplanade Canada '80 **7** Aug 8 - Sunday forenoon - A [long] leisurely varied drive around the city, stopping a dozen times and more. [W] I went into the citadel, [I walked] talked with the soldiers - (over 100 here. Battery A., canadian militia, the regulars having long since departed. A [strong] fort under the old dispensation, strong and picturesque as Gibraltar.) Then [we went] to several Catholic churches, and to the Esplanade The chime-bells rang out at intervals all the forenoon, joyfully clanging. [I found myself listening] It seems almost an art here; I never before heard their peculiar sound to such [pleas] mellifluous advantage and pleasure. the old name of Quebec Hochelega {Hochelaga (ho-shel' a-gah) is {derived from a word meaning {means beaver grounds .Ed.} (add here on Quebec (at End of this diary) Asylum for the insane, London,…18 Quebec Aug 9 '80 Aug 9 — forenoon — we have driven out 6 or 7 miles to the [Falls of] Montmorence Falls. & I am writing this as I sit high up on the steps, the [Falls] cascade immediately [right] before me — the great rocky chasm at my right and an immense lumber [station] depot bordering the river far, far below, [me] almost under me to the left. It makes a pretty and picturesque show — but not a grand one. The principal fall 30 in 40 feet wide & 250-280 feet high [water] roaring and white pours down a slant of dark gray rocks, & there are six or seven rivulet falls, [with] flanking it. ** [*Asylum for the Insane, London, ………. *] 9 * every house for miles is [built] set diagonal with one of its corners to the road - never its gable or front. The road out here from the city in a very [fine] good one, lined with [good] moderate - class houses, copious with women & children - the men appear to be away - I wonder what they work at? [*up*] — there seems little farming here - & I see no factories **Since writing the above I have gone down the steps (some 350) to the foot of the Fall, which I recommend every visitor to do- the view is peculiar and fine. The whole scene grows steadily upon one, & I can imagine myself after my visits forming a finally first-class estimate from what I see here of Montmorenci over a part of the scaly grim [bal] bald-black [?] rock, the water falling down [in strings and streaks] like strings of downward snowy-spiritual beautiful tresses * 10 Through the forenoon I watched [these] the cascade under the advantages now of [a] partly cloudy atmostphere, and [partly] now of the full sunshine. The tamarack trees. The great loaves of bread, shaped like clumsy butterflies -To Le Clerc -our driver lifting his finger groups onions houses all set diagonally long strips good kitchen gardens [*11*] hundreds of (to our eyes) funny looking one-horse vehicles calashes, antique gigs, long narrow strips of farms - having two-seated covered covered voitures voitures, [d] always drawn by one horse coarse rank tobacco big-roofed one story houses with projecting eaves - potatoes plenty & fine-looking -entire absence of barns barns [*12*] doors & windows wide open [saw] exhibiting many groups [through them] to [?] as we passed the ruins of Montcalm cannot seat the strong old stone walls still standing to the second story divided many old stone walls, (including those of the old city) still standing [*[Insert - from Culen]*] Canada '80 Aug 10, 8 am - Again in Montreal. As I write this I am seated aft in the felicious river breeze on the steamboat that is take me back west some 380 miles from here to Hamilton. Two hours yet before we start - few passengers - as they come east by the boats [but] and then generally take the Railroad back. Montreal [is the] has the largest show of sail ships, and [so] handsome ocean steamers of any place on the [l] river and lake line, and I am right in full sight of them [*tr up*] Aug 9 - [A] [v]Very pleasant journey [on the] of 180 miles this afternoon and to-night. [An] Crowds of Catholic priests on board with their long loose black gowns and the broad brims of their hats turned into a peculiar triangle going on the river westward from Montreal, is [a] pretty slow & tedious, taking [you] a long time to get through the canals, & many locks, to Lake St Francis, where the steamer emerges to the river again. These rapids along here - the boats can descend, [them], but cannot go up them. A great inconvenience to the navigator but they are [very] quite exciting with their whirls, & roar & foam, & very picturesque. _____ [*(always accenting the last syllable with a loud tremendous bah!)*] [I saw] here too are graveyards In a lovely little shore nook under an apple tree, green, grassy, fenced & rails. lapped by the waters. I saw a grave, [&] white headstone [fe] & footstone - could almost read the inscription Aug 10 Evening [was] wondrously clear, pleasant and calm. I think it it must have been unusual [to have the] [river] - the river was as smooth as glass for hours. All the stars shone in it, from below as brightly as above - the young moon and Arcturus and Aquila and after 10 lustrous Jupiter Nothing could be more exquisite - [Then steaming] [along in this manner] I sat away forward by the hours [on the] & watched the show till after 11. Aug 12 - 11 am - As we take the Cars as Toronto to go west, the first thing I notice is the change of temperature - no more [we I miss] the cool fresh air of the lakes, [and] [more than any thing else] [Sage] the St Lawrence and the Saguenay, Canada 80 '80 Aug 12 - 4 ½ pm I am writing this at Hamilton high up on [the] a hill south of the town - [an] Aug 13 pm - I write this on a singular strip of beach off Hamilton and . To day have been driving about for several hours - [the r] some of the roads high up on the crest of the mountain - spent a pleasant hour in the wine- vaults of Mr. Haskins and another at the vineyard & hospitable house of Mr Paine who treated us to some delicious native wine Canada '80 Aug 14 - I am writing this on the high balcony of the Asylum at Hamilton (Ontario Canada) - The city is spread in full view before me. (Is there not an escaped patient? I see a great commotion, Dr. W. and several attendants men & women, rushing down the cliff) - a dark, moist, lowering forenoon - balmy air through - wind South-west Aug 14 - 5 1/2 pm - Arrived back in London a couple of hours ago, all right. Am writing this in my room Dr. B's house Asylum for the Insane, London,...... 18 Canada '80 Aug 14 - [Throu] Along the way on the journey from Hamilton to London every where through the car windows I saw [the] locust trees growing [&] & the broad yellow faces of sunflowers the sumach bushes with their red cones, and the orchard trees loaded with apples [*end of his trip*] [*add here 'lecture" item*] - The waters - the Lakes and the indescribable grandeur & ? of the St Lawrence are the beauty of Canada through this vast line of two thousand miles and over. - In [these] its peculiar advanta. Yes, sanities and charms, I doubt whether the globe for democratic purposes has its' equal Canada ? for lecture for conclusion ? A [great beautiful] grand [sand] sane, temperate land, the amplest & most beautiful and stream of water, [*oc*] river & necklace of vast lakes, pure, sweet, eligible, supplied by the chemistry of millions of square miles of gushing springs & melted snows - [a] No stream - this for [a] side frontier - stream rather for the great central current the glorious mid-artery, of the great Free [solid] [Nationality -] Pluribus Unum of America - the solid Nationality - of the present and the future the home of an improved grand race of men & women, not of [one] some select class, only, but of larger, saner, better masses - I should say this vast area / from [* lat v*] / was fitted to be their unsurpassed habitat I know nothing finer - the European democratic tourist, philanthropist, geographer, or genuine inquirer [?] will make a fatal mistake who leaves these shores without understanding this — I know nothing finer, either from the point of view of the sociologist, the [li] traveller or the artist, than a month's devotion to even [a] the surface of Canada, over the line of the great Lakes & the St Lawrence, the fertile populous and happy province of Ontario, the of Quebec, with another month [or] to the hardy maratime regions of New Brunswick Nova Scotia and Newfoundland St Lawrence I see or und A race of 2, families, 10,000,0 - every farm ru the water, or at of it - the bes and sky & scenery The sure foundati of heroic men & wo summers [*St Lawrence*] - I have some tim whether there could race without the of writers, in Due prop St Lawrence **xx** I see, or imagine I see in the folio A race of 2,000,000 farm- families, 10,000,000 people, --every farm running down to the water, or at least in sight of it--the best air and drink and sky & scenery of the globe the sure foundation - instrument of heroic men & women -- the summers the winters --I have sometimes doubted whether there could be a great race without the hardy influence of winters, in due proportion. Canada St Lawrence to me its crowning; [glor] land of the rarest [and best] & healthiest air (an area of three or four hundred thousand square miles) --land of clear skies and sunshine of course by no means tropical, [and] neither in any ? degree arctic --In June, July and August, the long evening twilights--in September and October the most perfect days perhaps vouch safed to any part of the globe all in Dominion except the province of Newfoundland Ontario 121,260 sqr: miles Quebec 210,020 total Dominion 3,500,000 sqr m Quebec Ontario Nova Scotia New Brunswick Prince Edward Island British Columbia Manitoba Hudson Bay & North West Jer's not in D -- Newfoundland [*See Enc. Bru new ed: Vol 4*] Canada area equal to the whole of Europe population 1880 [abt 5,000,000] [nearly] 4 to 5 million Timber principal timber, white & red pine - the woods are full of white oak, elm, beech, ash, maple, (bird's-eye, curled, &c), walnut, cedar, birch, [and] tamarac [black walnut, bird's-eye] [and Maple] sugar [groves] orchards, (maple) the honey-bee every where -rural ponds and lakes, (often abounding with the great white sweet-smelling water-lily) - wild fruits and berries every where - in the vast flat grounds, the prairie-anemone Canada The Fisheries of Canada are almost unparalleled. The seal, the sturgeon, the finest salmon, white fish, cod, haddock, mackerel, herring the immense area, and the varieties of water - the Lakes the St Lawrence, the adjacencies of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia on the east, -in fact all the way from Davis Straits to Halifax - and the equally rich region on the Pacific side (on this {the Pacific} [latter] side great oyster beds) Then furs, deer-skins, and those of the bear, [buffalo] wolf, beaver, fox (all [varie] sorts) otter, coon, mink, martin [and] [buffalo] musk-rat, &c. grains in the following order Wheat Barley Rye Oats Indian Corn 1 [Canada] If the most significant [modern] trait of modern civilization is benevolence, (as a leading statesman has said,) it is doubtful whether [it] this is anywhere illustrated to a fuller degree than in [this] the province of Ontario. All the maimed, [needs] insane, idiotic blind, [and] deaf and dumb needy sick and old, minor criminals, fallen women, foundlings have advanced and ample provision of [land an] house and care and oversight, at least fully equal to anything of the kind in 2 any of the United States - probably indeed superior to them. Of Ontario, For its eighty-eight electoral ridings, each one returning a member of parliament [of population the Province has] There are four Insane Asylums, an Idiot Asylum [a Blind] [in] one commissive or omissive, on the part of their government, but I guess [they] said people have reason to bless their stars at the general fairness, economy, wisdom and liberality of their officers and administration [*4*] The g [*Gal 12*] [institution [*3*] for the Blind, one for the Deaf and Dumb, one for Foundlings, a Reformatory for Girls, one for Women, and no end of homes for the old and infirm, for waifs, and for the sick. commissive or omissive, on the part of their government, but I guess [they] said people have reason to bless their stars at the general fairness, economy, wisdom and liberality of their officers and administration. [ene?] [letter clas?] How narrow the [?] sitting in the [?] in Rome one afternoon [?] found myself ompany little girls, [adro] " ([with] robber, [a little case of the]* 4 Its school system, founded on the Massachusetts plan, is one of the best and most comprehensive in the world. [The] Some of the good people of Ontario have complained [to me] in my hearing of [sm omis] faults and fraudulencies, [on?] commissive or omissive , on the part of their government, but I guess [they] said people have reason to bless their stars at the general fairness, economy, wisdom and liberality of their officers and administration '80 Canada Aug 21 -[*London*] I rose this morning at 4 and look'd out on the most pure and refulgent starry show. Right over my head like a Tree-Universe spreading with its [hand was] orb-apples — Aldebaran leading the Hyades. — [High, too,] Jupiter of amazing lustre, softness and volume — and not far behind heavy Saturn — both past the meridian — the [Pleiades like] seven [dazzling] [sp] sparkling gems of the Pleiades. [due over me.] The full moon, voluptuous and yellow, [but] and full of radiance, an hour to setting in the west. Every thing so fresh, so still, the delicious something there is in early youth in early dawn - the spirit, the spring. the feel, the air and light. precursors of the untried Sun, [life,] love, action, forenoon, noon, life — [and] [yet] full-fibred latent [of] with them all And is not that Orion [the] mighty hunter [up there?] Are not those the three glittering studs in his belt? [There] And, there to the north Capell[ie] & his kids. Canada - at Dr. B's Aug 29 '80 -the [groups] robins on the grassy lawn (I sometimes see a dozen at a time, great fat fellows) -the little black and yellow bird the goldfinch with his billowy flight -the [groups] flocks of sparrows- Birds in Ontario talk with Wm Saunders [*July 1880*] lark-sparrow - sings robins - black birds (3 kinds) - cat bird - rice-bird (bob-o-link) - thrush - blue-bird cuckoo sand-pipers night-hawk, (nearly allied (my hawk) to whippoorwill) same as night-jar wren blue-jay - King-fisher wood-pecker high-hole write your name please Mary Ettie Lorenzen Three Radiations ? & songs left over shore-lark (northern bird) all the sparrows, oriole (hanging bird - golden robin) scarlet tanager (common here) meadow-lark yellow-bird purple martin swallows (go south August & Sept) cedar-bird (very common) [Tuesday forenoon July 6th 80 — A beautiful calm summer forenoon, as we sit here (M E L and myself ) on the verandah of Dr. Buckes' house —. -the pleasant view [the] wheat & hay fields, the birds singing, the sun shining in [a] the pleasant breeze, and all Nature [so] is perfect.] The elm, the maple, the locust [the] mountain ash, tamarack and oak Trinity Rock and Cape Eternity- two indescribable a good deal of cord wood, appears to be mostly white birch 18 18 [Walt Whitman is [stopping] at Ha-Ha bay. [on the Saguenay river]. He [says] [thinks] says he would like to spend a month every year of his life [amid that] there on the Saguenay river and near Cape Eternity and Trinity Rock] Canada July & Aug '80 Started from London 8:40 am July 26 by RR to Toronto—arrived in T. same day. [???] Toronto by steamboat July 27 " 28th [?ds] Aug 3 evening Aug 5 [?in] [?piscontimi] Eternity of Trinity Rock --then down, and, on our return Aug 8 early am arrived in Quebec staid two days Aug 10 early am in Montreal [Walt Whitman is [stopping] at Ha-ha bay. [on the Saguenay river.] He [says] [thinks] says he would like to spend a month every year of his life [amid that] there on the Saguenay river, and near Cape Eternity and Trinity Rock] Canada July & Aug '80 Started from London 8:40 am July 26 by RR to Toronto—arrived in T. same day. left Toronto by steamboat Algerian July 27 arrived at Kingston 5 am " 28th stopt at Dr W G Metcalf's down at the Thousand Islands three days-"Hub Island" left Kingston 6 am Aug 3 arrived at Montreal same evening left Montreal Aug 5 down to Quebec in steamer Montreal left Quebec 7 am Aug 6 in steamer Saguenay Aug 6 down the St. Lawrence splendid scenery 7th & night of 6th on the Saguenay to Chicoutimi & Ha-ha bay - Cape Eternity & Trinity Rock --then down, and, on our return Aug 8 early am arrived in Quebec staid two days Aug 10 early am in Montreal ...at Haha bay. [thinks] days every year of [hi?] ...iver, and Rock Canada July & Aug: '80 Started from London 8.40 am July 26 by RR to Toronto - arrived in T. same day. left Toronto by steamboat Algerian July 27 arrived at Kingston 5 am " 28th Stopt at Dr W G Metcalf's down at the Thousand Islands three days-"Hub Island" left Kingston 6 am Aug 3 arrived at Montreal same evening left Montreal Aug 5 down to Quebec in steamer Montreal left Quebec 7 am Aug 6 in steamer Saguenay Aug 6 down the St Lawrence splendid scenery 7th & night of 6th [?] the Saguenay to Chicoutimi & Ha-ha bay - Cape Eternity & Trinity Rock - then down, and, on our return Aug 8 early am arrived in Quebec staid two days Aug 10 early am in Montreal [Walt Whitman is [living] at Quebec, delighted with the queer old French city, making [daily] leisurely explorations among the old places, the churches, the hilly streets, the Citadel, and the environs. He specially admires, all through the province, [the numbers] [perpetual sight] [of pretty towns and villages] after [you] passing the mouth the perpetual recurrence & pretty towns & villages along the of the Ottawa, going east. For [over a hu] two hundred miles, the white clusters [over & over] are repeated continually, nestly or in groups in trees & orchards near the water, each with its glistening church [spir] spire or tower high in the middle of the town Aug 10 left Montreal in Algerian - had a pleasant voyage (two days & nights to Toronto- Aug 12 arr: in Toronto by Algerian - 3 hours at Queen's hotel left 11 am Aug 12 arrived in Hamilton 13 14 } in Hamilton {Back home in London Aug. 14} [*Collate the above with one at beginning of diary*] DISTANCE CARD. Miles Niagara Falls to Toronto. 84 Toronto to Montreal. 370 Montreal to Quebec. 180 " to Portland. 297 " to New York. 403 " to Albany. 261 " to Troy. 256 " to White Mountains. 76 " to Saratoga. 212 " to Cleveland. 712 " to Pittsburg. 851 " to Boston. 334 " to Cincinnati. 967 " to Louisville. 1104 " to St. Louis. 1325 " to New Orleans. 2504 Portland to Boston. 168 Saratoga to New York. 187 New York to Philadelphia. 88 Philadelphia to Baltimore. 98 Baltimore to Washington. 40 Ogdensburg to Ottawa. 53 Niagara to Toronto................................................................84 Toronto to Montreal............................................................370 Montreal to Quebec............................................................180 Quebec to Ha! Ha! Bay........................................................215 New York to Lennoxville.....................................................460 Lennoxville to Quebec.......................................................124 Quebec to New York..........................................................524 Quebec to Portland...........................................................295 Quebec to Boston..............................................................463 Quebec to New Orleans..................................................2684 Ha! Ha! Bay to Lake St. John...............................................60 MAP OF THAT PART OF THE RIV. ST. LAWRENCE TRAVERSED BY THE SAGUENAY BOATS. MAP OF THAT PART OF THE Riv. St. Lawrence TRAVERSED BY THE SAGUENAY BOATS. Niagara to Toronto 84 Toronto to Montreal 370 Montreal to Quebec 180 Quebec to Ha! Ha! bay 215 New York to Lennoxville 460 Lennoxville to Quebec 124 Quebec to New York 524 Quebec to Portland 295 Quebec to Boston 463 Quebec to New Orleans 2684 Ha! Ha! bay to Lake St. John 60 (Upside Down Text below) Isle of Orleans. twenty miles long and from half a mile to five to a considerable elevation; at the end nearest is fully 350 feet above the water level. On it lurches and one Protestant, the latter being for visitors in summer. The total population of 6,000 and 7,000. Cap Tourment as the Isle of Orleans has been passed. It lies and rises to an altitude of about 2,000 feet. Grosse Isle tive settlement resting amongst hills and mountains, possessing good sea-bathing, and affording sport to the angler or rifleman. Here also is a valuable Mineral Spring, whose waters are highly recommended to invalids. It has five or six good hotels. What a contrast to the crowded Watering places of the FASHIONABLE WORLD! Here one can enjoy Nature at her best, completely severed from the cares and turmoils of business. The Pilgrim Islands. some ten miles below Murray Bay, consist of a remarkable group of rocks, which from their height, are visible at a great distance. The islands, in Summer, scarcely ever present to the beholder the same shape for an hour at a time; that beautiful phenomenon, "THE MIRAGE," seeming constantly to dwell about them. This of the river furthest from the good. lies on the bank of the St. La du Loup, and is the most places. Its houses are comfort clean. St. La the largest hotel below Quebec guests, and offers all the comfort CREIGHTON, long and fav St. Louis Hotel, Quebec, is the and Omnibusses are always o to convey passengers. Con THE RICHELIE Runni And will, from the ST. AND TUESDAYS and FRIDAYS. WEDNESDAYS and SATURDAYS. LEAVE | Quebec. | Bay Tuesdays. | 7 a.m. | 10.3 Wednesday. | 7 " | 0 Fridays. | 7 " |10. Saturdays. |7 " | 0 LEAVE | Chleoutimi. | Ha! Sundays. | 0 | 9 Wednesdays. | * | * Thursdays. | 0 | 9 Saturdays. | * | * The time of leaving by the Tide, which varies Connecting with Before and after the On Wednesdays and K (Map Below) MAP OF THE SAGUENAY RIVER (Locations on top half of map, left to right) St. Anne Cap St. Fiancore R Original R Valin R Caribou R Oulay dear St Eulgence Ponte Roches Pt Au Pin Cap Jamux Tides rise here in ordinary springs 18 Et R Pelttier Cape East Decente Des Femmes Cat Rouge A Houge EAU FL Los Tadousac Pr Rot Pr Monlin a Baulis River Severance (Locations on bottom half of map, left to right) Chicoutimi PU PT of the Flat Cape West St Alphonse R Mars St Alexis River HaHa HaHa Ray Pr Nothe Mo FL Lank PT Ft R Caliard Pt Birch Echarelia F Echafaud MAP OF THE SAGUENAY RIVER (Upside Down Text) notice as being the Quarantine resting place of many a poor to make a home, lies buried lie buried 7,000 victims of the as many were claimed by the markable chiefly for their fertility flocks to them in the season. Paul. Coudres rich iron mines. beautiful islands, some near assist the mind in realizing the river St. Lawrence, which now grandest feature of all must not Bay, a distance of over fifty sents on continuous Panorama this continent--only surpassed by compared to Switzerland and the much grander as grander as the mighty St. stream. Bay Summer resort; a primi- may be due to refraction of the sun's rays, owing to the rocks being very sparsely covered with vegetation. Riviere du Loup is the next stopping place, and here connection is made with the Intercolonial Railway. Tourists to or from the Atlantic States or Provinces via Halifax or St. John, as the case may be, take leave of the boat here. Riviere du Loup is one of the Favorite summer resorts, and whilst probably not as thronged as Cacouna, is frequented by many of the best families of both Montreal and Quebec. The site of the Town of Fraserville (the name under which it is incorporated), is very beautiful, on a level plateu, at a considerable elevation, it commands a most extended view of the St. Lawrence, and the distant Laurentian Mountains. The Lover of Nature will enjoy the beautiful effect of a June or July sunset, as seen from here--when the sea-like river lies calmly at his feet, reflecting the distant azure mountains, just tip't with a golden glory. "Cold must the be, and void of emotion," that would not melt under the influence of such a sight. There are two very fine waterfalls at Riviere du Loup. The upper one can only be seen from the point of a rock jutting over it, on which not more than two or three persons can venture at a time. The other, to be seen to advantage, should be viewed from the side Leaving Riviere du Loup North and steams for The Far- the "Mecca" of all tourists. traveller as he feels that he is run of twenty miles brings the T where the great river loses its Here is situated one of ments, whence millions of to stock the various rivers Tadousac, what words can do combine to make up one The T affords every accommodation the wearied traveller may From this point to the turning point of the voyage inch of the way lacks in every revolution of the paddle here a placid bay, there a ular rocks a quarter of a mile a thousand feet deep, and the ering to the clouds–all have It is impossible within the name the many attractions Lakes of the Thousand Islands St Lawrence river- Aug 1 I write this in the [b] most beautiful extensive region of lakes and islands one can probably see on earth-have been here several days, leisurely cruising around- -came down [here two ???? days ago, cruising around] in a handsome little steam-yacht which I am living on half the time- the [w] lakes are very extensive [*(over 1000 square miles)*] & the islands numberless, some small some large. Here and there dotted with summer villas. I am pretty well. Go [to] on to Montreal Tuesday, 3d, (to Elmer rec'd your letter) [and] so down the St L Pete Elmer Lou Mont [Dave Moore] Eugene Crosby Al Johnston CAPE TRINITY. HA HA BAY. FORBES-CO BOSTON TADOUSAC. [*4*] FORBES--OO MOUTH OF SAGUENAY AND POINT MARGUERITE, TADOUSAC. 5 POINT L'ISLET, TADOUSAC. 6 THE WALLED CITY OF THE NORTH. CITY OF QUEBEC. montreal [?] Quebec Aug 5-10 Montreal [?] Quebec Aug 5 - 10 (add Ha [ha page forward at end of diary)] TABLE Showing the distances of the various POINTS OF INTEREST from Quebec. and from each other, on the Lower St. Lawrence and Saguenay Rivers. QUEBEC TO RIMOUSKI. Quebec to Riviere du Loup. . . . . . . . 112 Riviere du Loup to Rimouski . . . . . . . 66 --- 132 m's. Rimouski to Tadousac. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Tadousac to St. Alphonse. . . . . . . . . . 72 --- 132 " Rimouski to Chicoutimi, direc.t . . . . 152 " " via St Alphonse 160 Pt. St. Laurent St. John. Ile Madame. Cap Tourmente. Grosse Ile. Pillar Light. St. Paul's Bay. Les Eboulemedts. Murray Bay. Riviere du Loup. Tadousac. Ste. Marguerite. St. Louis Islets. Riv're aux Canards. Little Saguenay River. St. John's Bay. Eternity Bay. The Capes. Trinity Bay. Cap Rouge. Cape East. Cape West. Ha! Ha! Bay. St. Alphonse. Chicoutimi. Quebec. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Miles. . . Pt. St. Lawrence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 St. John L. of Orleans. . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 17 Ile Madame (Lady Island). . . . . . . . 6 6 23 Cap Tourmente, North Shore . . . . . 5 11 5 28 Grosse Ile, (Quar'tine Sta'n). . . . . . 5 16 10 5 33 Pillar Light-House . . . . . . . . . . 15 31 25 20 15 48 * ST. PAUL'S BAY, N . . . . . . . . . . . 7 38 32 27 22 7 55 * LES EBOULEMENTS, N . . . . . . . . . . 11 49 42 38 33 18 11 66 * MURRAY BAY, N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 65 59 54 49 34 27 16 82 * RIVIERE DU LOUP, S. . . . . . . . . . . . 30 95 89 84 79 64 57 46 30 112 (Cacouna Passengers land here). TADOUSAC, N. (Mth Saguenay). . . . 22 117 111 2016 111 86 79 68 52 22 134 Riviere Ste. Marguerite, E. . . . . . . . 15 132 126 121 2016 101 91 83 67 37 15 149 St. Louis Islets. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 136 130 125 110 105 98 87 71 41 19 4 157 Riviere aux Canards, E. . . . . . . . . 4 140 134 129 114 109 102 91 87 71 45 23 8 4 157 Little Saguenay River, W . . . . . . . . . 4 144 138 133 118 113 106 95 79 49 27 12 8 4 161 St. John's Bay, W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 149 143 138 123 118 111 100 84 54 32 17 13 9 5 166 {Eternity Bay, W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . (CAPES ETERNITY AND TRINITY } 9 158 152 147 132 127 120 109 93 63 41 26 22 18 14 9 175 175 Trinity Bay, E. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 165 159 154 139 134 127 116 100 70 48 33 29 25 21 16 7 7 182 Cape Rouge, E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 173 167 161 147 142 135 124 108 78 56 41 37 33 29 24 15 15 8 190 Cape East, E. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 180 174 169 154 149 142 131 115 85 63 48 44 40 36 31 22 22 15 7 197 Cape West, W. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 182 176 171 156 151 143 132 116 86 64 50 46 42 38 33 24 24 17 9 2 199 Ha! Ha! Bay. {Entrance.} . . . 1 190 177 172 157 152 151 133 117 87 65 51 47 43 39 34 25 25 18 10 3 1 200 ST. ALPHONSE, . . . 7 197 184 179 165 159 158 140 124 94 72 58 54 50 46 41 32 32 25 17 10 8 7 207 CHICOUTIMI, via] St. Alphonse. . . . . 28 217 212 207 192 187 179 168 152 122 100 86 82 78 74 69 60 60 53 45 38 36 35 28 235 NOTE.--In the above table the distance of any place from Quebec will be found at the top of perpendicular column under the name of the place wanted. The distances between any other two places is found by taking the name of one of the places in the left hand margin, and following its line until it intersects with the column at whose head is the name of the other places sought. * Places marked with an asterisk are Stations of the Montreal Telegraph Company. 180 235 ----- 415 Dr J M Drake Distances. Miles Sarnia to London 60 London to Toronto 120 Toronto to Kingston 161 Kingston to Montreal 172 Montreal to Quebec 180 Quebec to Tadousac 134 Tadousac to Chicoutimi 101 928 from Phila: to London 520 Itinerary. Started from London 8.40 am July 26 by R.R. to Toronto--arrived in T. same day. Left Toronto by steamboat Algerian July 27 arrived at Kingston 5 am 26th. stopt at Dr W G Metcalf's down at the Thousand Islands three days--"Hub Island" Left Kingston 6 am Aug 3. arrived at Montreal same evening. Left Montreal Aug 5, down to Quebec in steamer Montreal. Left Quebec 7 am Aug 6 in steamer Saguenay, Aug 6 down the St. Lawrence, splendid scenery. Night of the 6th and 7th up the Saguenay to Chicoutimi and Ha Ha bay - Cape Eternity and Trinity Rock. Then down, and, on our return, Aug 8 early a.m. arrived in Quebec, staid two days. Aug 10 early a.m. in Montreal , straight through in the steamboat Algerian - had a pleasant voyage (two days and nights) to Toronto Aug 12 arr: in Toronto by Algerian - 3 hours at Queen's hotel, left 11 am. Aug. 12 arrived in Hamilton Aug 13, 14 in Hamilton. Back home to London Aug. 14. July 26, 1880. Started this morning at 8.40 from London for Toronto, 120 miles, by R R - I am writing this on the cars, very comfortable.- We are now (10 - 11 am) passing through a beautiful country.- Rained hard last night and showery this morning.- everything looking bright and green. I am enjoying the ride (in a big easy R R chair, in a roomy car) The atmosphere cool, moist, just right, and the sky veiled. We pass through the thriving towns of Ingersoll, Woodstock, Paris, Harrisburg, Dundas, and on to Hamilton (80 miles through counties) all pleasant, fertile country, sufficiently diversified, frequent signs of land not long cleared, black stumps ( often the fields fenced with the roots of them) - patches of beautiful woods, beech, fine elms, thrifty apple orchards, the hay and wheat mostly harvested, barley, begun, oats almost ready. ( a little hilly between Dundas and Hamilton and the same on to Toronto). Corn looking well, potatoes ditto, but the great show-charm of my ride is from the unfailing grass and woods. Hamilton is a bustling city. As we approach Toronto every thing looks doubly beautiful - especially the glimpses of blue Ontario's waters, sunlit, yet with a slight haze, through which occasionally a distant sail. In Toronto at half past 1. I rode up on top of the omnibus with the driver - the city made the impression on me of a lively dashing place. the lake gives it its character. In Toronto, July 27 '80. Front st. wholesale pretty solid and Church street, King street, stores, ladies shopping ("the Broadway") Sherbourne st. Jarvis st. &c. Long and elegant streets of semi-rural residences, many of them very costly and beautiful. The horse-chestnut is the prevalent tree - you see it everywhere. The mountain-ash now with its bunches of red berries. Queen's Park, The Insane Asylum, Mercer's Reformatory for Females, Toronto University with its Norman architecture, and ample grounds, Knox College. Mr. Dent, Mr. Tully the architect. July 27. - I write this in Toronto, aboard the steamboat, the Algerian, 2 o'clock pm. We are off presently. The boat from Lewiston, New York, has just come in - the usual hurry with passengers and freight - and as I write, I hear the pilot's bells, the thud of hawsers unloosened and feel the boats squirming slowly from her ties, out into freedom. We are off, off into Toronto bay,( soon the wide expanse and cool breezes of Lake Ontario). As we steam out a mile or so, we get a tretty view of Toronto, from the blue foreground of the waters - the whole rising spread of the city, groupings of roofs, spires, trees, hills in the background. Good bye Toronto, with your memories of a very lively and agreeable visit. (Entry here of name of James W. Slocum, Wagner car conducter, and memorandum "your James Slocum." Sherbourne & Jarvis sts. Front, Church, King, Young sts. Business & stores, King st. the Broadway. A day and night on Lake Ontario. On Lake Ontario July 27 '80 ( going from Toronto to Kingston ) We start from Toronto about 2 pm in the Hamilton and Quebec steamboat, (middling good-sized and comfortable, carrying shore freight and summer passengers ) Quite a voyage - the whole length of Lake Ontario; very enjoyable day - clear, breezy, and cool enough for me to wrap my blanket around me, as I pace the upper deck.- For the first 60 or 70 miles we keep near the Canadian shore - of course no land in sight the other side - stop of Port Hope, Coburg, &c. - and then stretch out toward the midwaters of the lake. I pace the deck or sit till pretty late, wrapt in my blanket enjoying all, the coolness, darkness - and then to my berth awhile. July 27 '80 - Rose soon after 3 to come out on deck and enjoy a magnificent night-show before dawn. Overhead the moon, at her half and waning half, with lustrous Jupiter and Saturn, made a trio-cluster close together, in the purest of skies - with the groups of the Pleiades and Hyades following a little to the east. The lights off on the islands and rocks, the splashing waters, the many shadowy shores and passages throughthem, in the crystal atmosphere, the dawn-streaks of faint red and yellow in the east, made a good hour for me. We landed on Kingston wharf just at sunrise. Lake Ontario. - Lake 0 is 234 feet above sea-level, (Huron is over 500 and Superior over 600) The chain of Lakes and river St Lawrence drain 400,000 square miles. The rain-fall on this vast area averages annually a depth of 30 inches - so that the existence and supply of the river, fed by such inland preceding seas, is a matter of very simple calculation after all. July 28 - To day Dr. M. [(*C*)] took me in his steam yacht a long, lively, varied voyage down among the Lakes of the Thoisand Islands. We went swiftly on east of Kingston, through cuts, channels, lagoons, and out across lakes - numbers of islands always in sight - [*1)[Metcalfe]*] often as we steamed by, some almost grazing us - rocks and cedars - accasionally a camping party on the shores, perhaps fishing - a little sea-well on the water- on our return, evening deepened, bringing a miracle of sunset. I could have gone on thus for days over the savage-tame beautiful element. We had some good music (one of Verdi's compositions from the band of B battery, as we hauled in shore, anchored and listened in the twilight (to the slapping rocking gurgle of our boat) Late when we reached home. July 29. - This forenoon a long ride through the streets of Kingston, and out into the country, and the Lake shore road. Describe Kingston. Kingston has a population of 15,000. The place is a military station (B battery) shows quite a fort, and half a dozen old Martello towers, (like big conical-topt pound-cakes) It is a pretty town of 15,000 inhabitants. The St Lawrence, including all the Lakes &c. from the sea to Duluth is over 2,500 miles vessels of 800 tons can now go through; soon 1,400 tons. July 31. '80 - Lakes of the Thousand Islands. Saturday Evening July 31 ' 80. - I am writing this at and after sundown in the central portion ("American side" as they call it here) of the Lakes of the Thousand Islands, 25 miles east of Kingston. The scene if made up of the most beautiful and ample waters twenty ot thirty woody and rocky islands (varying in size, some large, others small, others middling) the distant shores of the New York side, some puffing steamboats in the open waters, and numerous skiffs and row-boats - all showing as minute specks in the amplitude and primal naturalness. The brooding waters, the cool and delicious air, the long evening with its transparent half-lights, the glistening and faintly-slapping waves - the circles of swallows, gambolling and piping. (In the back of the Canada diary is the following, evidently a first draft or memorandum for a letter to some one.) Aug 1. - I write this in the most beautiful extensive region of lakes and islands one can probably see on earth - have been here several days, leisurely crusing around- in a handsome little steam-yacht which I am living on half the time - the lakes are very extensive (over 1000 square miles) and the islands numberless, some small, some large. Here and then dotted with summer villas. I am pretty well. Go on to Montreal Tuesday 3d (to Elmer read your letter) go down the St L Aug.1 '80. - Sunday noon - Still among the Thousand Islands, (this is about the centre of them, stretching 25 miles to the east and the same distance west) The beauty of the spot all through the day, the sunlit waters, the fanning breeze, the rocky and cedar-bronzed islets, the larger islands with fields and farms, the white-wing'd yachts and shooting row-boats, - and over all the blue sky arching copious - make a sane, calm, eternal pictureto eyes, senses, and my soul. Land of the purest Air - Land of the Lakes and Woods. Aug 1. - Evening - An unusual show of boats gaily darting over the waters in every direction - not a poor model among them, and many of exquisite beauty, grace, and speed. It is a precious experience, one of these long midsummer twilights in these waters, and this atmosphere. Land of pure air! Land of unnumbered lakes! Land of the islets and the woods. Lakes of Thousand Islands. Aug.2 - Early morning - a steady south-west wind - the fresh peculiar atmosphere of the hour and place, worth coming a thousand miles to get. O'er the waters the gray rocks and dark-green cedars of a score of big and little islands around me, the added splendour of sunrise. As I sit, the sound of slapping water, to me sweet musical of sounds. One peculiarity as you go about among the islands, or stop at them, is the entire absence of horses and wagons. Plenty of small boats however, and always very handsome ones. Even the women row, and sail skiffs. Often the men here build their boats themselves. Aug. 2 '80 - Forenoon - a run of three hours ( some thirty miles ) through the islands and lakes in the "Princess Louise" to Kingston. Saw the whole scene, with its sylvan rocky and aquatic loveliness to fine advantage. Such amplitude - room enough here for the summer recreation of all North America. Aug 4. '80 - In Montreal - guest of Dr. T.S.H. (Dr. T S[terry] H[unt]) Genial host, delightful quarters, good sleep. Explore the city leisurely but quite thoroughly: St James street, with its handsome shops, Victoria Bridge, the great French church, the English Cathedral, the old French church of Notre-Dame de Bon Secours, the grandest place I ever saw. The handsome new peculiarly and lavishly ornamented church of Notre-Dame de Lourdes. The French street of middle life with their signs. A city of 150,000 people, very bustling. Principal city north of the St. Lawrence, the Hospital Dieu hospital. But the principal character of Montreal to me, was from a drive along the street looking down on the river front and the wharves where the steamships lay, twenty or more of them, some as handsome and large as I ever saw, beautiful models, trim, two or three hundred feet long, some moving out, on or two coming in - plenty of room, and fine dockage, with heavy masonry banks. Aug. 5 '80 - forenoon. - Three hours on Mount Royal, the great hill and park back of Montreal. Spent the forenoon on a leisurely most pleasant drive on and about the hill - many views of the city below, the waters of the St Lawrence in the clear air - the Adirondacks 50 miles or more distant - the excellent roads, miles of them, or up hill and down the plentiful woods, oak, pine, hickory - the French sign boards - Passez a Droite - as we zigzag around, the splendid views, distances, waters, mountains, vistas, some of them quite unsurpassable - the continual surprises of fine trees, in groups, or singly - the grand, rocky, natural escarpments- frequently open spaces, larger or smaller, with patches of golden rod, or white yarrow, or along the road the red fire-weed or Scotch thistle in bloom - just the great hill itself, with its rocks and trees unmolested by any impertinence of ornamentation. Sunrise - the St L near Quebec. Aug.5-6 - Have just seen sunrise, the great round dazzling ball, straight ahead over the broad waters - a rare view - standing on the extreme bow of the boat. The shores pleasantly, thickly dotted with houses - the river here wide, and looking beautiful in the golden morning's sheen. As we advance north-east the earth-banks high and sheer, quite thickly wooded - thin dawn-mists quickly resolving - the youthful strong, warm forenoon over the high green bluffs, along the banks as we steam rapidly, little white houses seen through the verdure - occasionally a pretensive mansion, a mill, a two tower'd church, in burnish'd tin. A pretty shore, miles of it sitting up high, well-sprinkled with dwellings of habitans - farmers, fisherman, French cottagers, &c. verdant everywhere ( but no big trees ) for 50 miles before coming to Quebec. These little rural cluster-towns just back from the bank-bluffs, so happy and peaceful looking. I saw them through my glass, everything quite minutely and fully. In one such town of perhaps two hundred houses, on sloping ground, the old church with glistening spire stood in the middle and quite a large grave yard around it. I could see the white head-stones almost plainly enough to count them. Aug.6 - Approaching Quebec rocks and rocky banks again, the shores lined for many miles with immense rafts of logs and partially hewn timber, the hills more broken and abrupt, the higher shores crowded with many fine dormer-window'd houses. Sail-ships appear in clusters with their weather-beaten spars and furl'd canvas. The river still ample and grand, the banks bold, plenty of round turns and promontories - plenty of gray rock cropping out. Rafts, rafts of logs everywhere. The high rocky citadel thrusts itself out - altogether perhaps (at any rate as you approach it on water, the sun two hours high) as picturesque an appearing city as there is on earth. Aug. 6 - Quebec. To the east of Quebec we pass the large fertile island of Orleans - the fields divided in long lateral strips across the island, and appearing to be closely cultivated. In one field I notice them getting in the hay, a woman assisting, loading and hauling it. The view and scene continue broad and beautiful under the forenoon sun - around me an expanse of waters stretching fore and aft as far as I can see - outlines of mountains in the distance north and south - of the farthest ones the bulk and the crest lines showing through strong but delicate haze like gray lace. Aug. 6th - night - we are steaming up the Saguenay. from Quebec to Chicou 235. Ha Ha Bay [*[?]*] - I am here nearly 1000 miles (slightly east of due north) from Phila. (starting point) by way of Montreal and Quebec, in the strangest country. Had a good night's sleep, cold - overcoat - but up before sunrise - northern lights every night, as with overcoat on or wrapt in my blanket I plant myself on the forward deck. (Note at end of diary). - Walt Whitman is at Ha Ha bay. He says he would like to spend a month every year of his life there on the Saguenay river, and near Cape Eternity and Trinity Rock. Aug. 6 and 7 - Ha ha bay. - Up the black Saguenay river, a hundred or so miles - dashes of the grimmest, wildest, savagest scenery on the planet - a strong, deep (always hundreds of feet, sometimes thousands) dark-water'd river, very dark, with high rocky hills - green and gray edged banks in all directions - no flowers, no fruits (plenty of delicious wild blueberries and raspberries up at Chicoutimi, though and Ha-ha bay.) The priests - saw them on every boat, and at every landing; at Tadousac came a large and handsome yacht, manned and evidently owned by them, to bring some departing passengers of their cloth and take on others. It looked funny to me at first to see the movements, ropes and tiller handled by these swarming black birds; but I soon saw that they sailed their craft skilfully and well. The people are simple, middling industrious, merry, devout Catholic a church every where, (priests in their black gowns everywhere, often groups of handsome young fellows) life toned low, few luxuries, none of the modern improvements, no hurry, often big families of children, nobody "progressive," all apparently living and moving entirely among themselves, taking small interest in the outside world of politics, changes, news, fashions, industrious yet taking life very leisurely, with much dancing and music. Here follows what is evidently a thumbnail sketch for the first part of Fancies at Navesink. Again I steam over the Saguenay. The bronze-black waters and the thin lines of white curd, and the dazzling sun-dash on the stream, the banks of grim- gray mountains and the rocks, I see the grim and savage scene. Made a good breakfast of sea-trout, finishing off with wild raspberries. Hotels here, a few fashionable but they get away soon - it is almost cold except the middles of a few July and August days. Undated - Trinity rock, Cape Eternity, The inhabitants peculiar to our eyes - many marked characters, looks, by-plays, costumes, &c. that would make the fortunes of actors who could reproduce them. - More of less aquatic character runs through the people. The two influences of French and British contribute a curious by-play. Continual Hamlets and villages of one- story white washed houses. Contrasts all the while, at this place backed by these mountains high and bold, nestled down the hamlet of St Pierre, apparently below the level of the bay, and very secluded and cosy. Then two or three miles further on I saw a larger town high up on the plateau. At St Paul's bay a stronger cast of scenery, many rugged peaks. No date. On the Saguenay. - The noticeable items on land: the long boxes of blue-berries (we had over a thousand of them carried on board at Ha-ha bay, one day I was on the pier), the groups of "boarders," both men and women (retaining all their most refined toggery) - the vehicles, some "calashes" many queer old one-horse top-wagons, with an air of faded gentility - on the water, the sail craft and steamers we pass - out in the stream, the rolling and turning up of the white-bellied porpoises, some special 'island or rock' (often very picturesque in color or form) - all the scenes at the piers as we land to leave or take passengers and freight, especially many of the natives; the changing aspect of the light and the marvellous study from that alone, every hour of the day or night - the indescribable sunsets and sunrises (I often see the latter now) - the glorious nights and the stars, Arcturus and Vega and Jupiter and Saturn, and the constellation of the scorpion, the scenes at breakfast and other meal times ( and what an appetite one gets) - the delicious fish (I mean from the cook's fire, hot ) ( I had a good opera glass and made constant use of it, sweeping every shore). Northern lights every night. Quebec from the river - Aug 8. '80. Imagine (the angles each a mile long) of a high rocky hill flush and bold to the river with plateau on top, the front handsomely presented to the south and east (we are steaming up the river), on the principal height, still flush with the stream, a vast stone fort, the most conspicuous object in view - the magnificent St Lawrence itself - many hills and ascents, and tall edifices shown at their best, and steeples - the handsome town of Point Levi opposite - a long low sea-steamer just hauling out. Aug. 8 - Sunday forenoon - A leisurely varied drive around the city, stopping a dozen times and more. I went into the citadel, talked with the soldiers - (over 100 here, Battery A., Canadian militia, the regulars having long since departed. A fort under the old dispensation strong and picturesque as Gibraltar.) Then to several Catholic churches, and to the Esplanade. The chime-bells rang out at intervals all the forenoon, joyfully clanging. It seems almost an art here. I never before heard their peculiar sound to such mellifluous advantage and pleasure. The old name of Quebec - Hochelaga. Hochelaga (ho-shel-a-gah) is derived from a word meaning beaver grounds. Ed.) This note was at end of diary - [*/*] Walt Whitman is at Quebec, delighted with the queer old French city, making leisurely explorations among the old places, the churches, the hilly streets, the Citadel, and the environs. He specially admires, all through the province, after passing the mouth of the ottawa, going east, the perpetual recurrence of pretty towns and villages along the St L. For two hundred miles, the white clusters are continually repeated, in groups, nestling in trees and orchards near the water, each with its glistening church spire or tower high in the middle of the town. Quebec. Aug. 9 '80 - forenoon. - We have driven out 6 or 7 miles to the Montmorenci Falls and I am writing this as I sit high up on the steps, the cascade immediately before me - the great rocky chasm at my right and an immense lumber depot bordering the river, far, far below almost under me to the left. It makes a pretty and picturesque show, but not a grand one. The principal fall 30 or 40 feet wide and 250 feet high roaring and white, pours down a slant of dark gray rocks, and there are six or seven rivulet falls flanking it. Since writing the above I have gone down the steps (some 350) to the foot of the Fall, which I recommend every visitor to do - the view is peculiar and fine. The whole scene grows steadily upon one, and I can imagine myself, after many visits forming finally a first-class estimate [*?*] from what I see here of Montmorenci over a part of the scaly, grim bald-black rock, the water falling down like strings of snowy-spiritual beautiful tresses. The road out here from the city is a very good one, lined with moderate-class houses, copious with women and children - the men appear to be away - I wonder what they work at? Every house for miles is set diagonally with one of its corners to the road - never its gable or front. There seems little farming here - and I see no factories. Through the forenoon watched the cascade under the advantages now of partly cloudy atmosphere and now of the full sunshine. The tamarack trees,- the great loaves of bread, shaped like clumsy butterflies. - Jo Le Clerc - our driver, lifting his finger.- groups, onions, houses all set diagonally long strips, good kitchen gardens. Hundreds of (to our eyes) funny looking one- horse vehicles, calashes, antique gigs. [*(1*] Long narrow strips of farms - coarse rank tobacco. Big-roofed one story houses with projecting eaves. Potatoes plenty and fine- looking. Entire absence of barns. [*1)*] heavy two-seated covered voitures, always drawn by one horse. Doors and windows wide open, saw groups etching as we passed. - The ruins of Mont- calm's country seat the strong old stone walls still standing to the second story - indeed many old stone walls (including those of the old city) still standing. Aug. 9. - Very pleasant journey of 180 miles this afternoon and to-night. Crowds of Catholic priests on board with their long loose black gowns and the broad brims of their hats turned into a peculiar triangle. Aug. 10 8 a.m. - Again in Montreal. As I write this I am seated aft in the delicious river breeze on the steamboat that is to take me back west some 350 miles from here to Hamilton. Two hours yet before we start - few passengers as they come east by the boats, and then generally take the Railroad back. Montreal has the largest show of sail-ships, and hand- some ocean steamers of any place on the river and lake line, and I am right in full sight of them. Going on the river westward from Montreal, is pretty slow and tedious, taking a long time to get through the canals, and many locks, to Lake St Francis, where the steamer emerges to the river again. These rapids along here - the boats can descend, but cannot go up them. A great inconvenience to the navigator, but they are quite exciting with their whirls and roar and foam, and very picturesque. Here too are graveyards. In a lovely little shore-nook under an apple tree, green, grassy, fenced by rails, lapped by the waters, I saw a grave,- white headstone and footstone could almost read the inscription. Aug. 10. - Evening wondrously clear, pleasant and calm. I think it must have been unusual - the river was so smooth as glass for hours. All the stars shone in it from below as brightly as above - the young moon and Arcturus and Aquila, and after 10 lurtrous Jupiter. Nothing could be more exquisite - I sat away forward and watched the show till after 11. Aug.12 - 11 a.m. - As we take the cars at Toronto to go West, the first thing I notice is the change of temperature - no more the cool fresh air of the lakes, the St Lawrence and the Saguenay. Aug.12.- 4 1/2 p.m. - I am writing this at Hamilton high up a hill south of the town. Aug.13. , p.m.- I write this on a singular strip of beach off Hamilton and To day have been driving about for several hours - some of the roads high up on the crest of the mountain - spent a pleasant hour in the wine-vaults of Mr. Haskins and another at the vineyard and hospitable house of Mr. Paine who treated us to some delicious native wine. Aug.14. - I am writing this on the high balcony of the Asylum at Hamilton (Ontario Canada) - The city is spread in full view before me. (Is there not an escaped patient? I see a great commotion, Dr.W. and several attendants, men and women, ruching down the cliff) - a dark, moist, lowering forenoon - balmy air though - wind south-west. Aug.14. -5 1/2 p.m. - Arrived back in London a couple of hours ago, all right. Am writing this in my room Dr. B's house. Aug.14. - Along the way on the journey from Hamilton to London every where through the car windows I saw locust trees growing and the broad yellow faces of sunflowers, the sumach bushes with their red cones, and the orchard trees loaded with apples. [end of his trip.] The waters - the Lakes and the indescribable Canada. ? for lecture for conclusion? A grand dane temperate land, the amplest and most beautiful and [*[blank]*] stream of water, river and necklace of vast lakes, pure, sweet, eligible, supplied by the chemistry of millions of square miles of gushing springs and melted snows. No stream this for side frontier - stream rather for the great central current, the glorious mid-artery of the great Free Pluribus Union of America - the solid Nationality of the present and the future, the home of an improved grand race of men and women, not of some select class, only, but of larger, saner, better masses. I should say this vast area ( from [*[blank]*] lat and [*[blank]*]) was fitted to be their unsurpassed habitat. I know nothing finer - the European democratic tourist, philanthropist, geographer, or genuine inquirer will make a fatal mistake who leaves these shores without understanding this - I know nothing finer, either from the point of view of the sociologist, the traveller or the artist, than a month's devotion to even the surface of Canada, over the line of the great Lakes and the St Lawrence, the fertile, populous and happy province of Ontario, the of Quebec with another month to the hardy maritime regions of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. grandeur and of the St Lawrence are the beauty of Canada through this vast line of two thousand miles and over. In its peculiar advantages, sanities, and charms. I doubt whether the globe for democratic purposes has its equal. The following notes appear on loose sheets St Lawrence. - [*4 60*] I see, or imagine I see in the future, a race of 2,000,000 farm-families, 10,000,000 people - every farm running down to the water, or at least in sight of it - the lest air and drink and sky and scenery of the globe, the sure foundation-nutriment of heroic men and women - The summers ? the winters - I have sometimes doubted whether these could be a great race without the hardy influence of winters in due proportion. To me its crowning; land of the rarest and healthiest air (an area of three or four hundred thousand square miles) - land of clear skies and sunshine, of course by no means tropical, neither in any ? degree arctic. In June, July and August, the long evening twilights - in September and October the most perfect days perhaps vouchsafed to any part of the globe. All in Dominion except the province of Newfoundland. Ontario, 121,260 sq. miles. Quebec, 210,020 " " Total Dominion, 3,500,000 sq. m. Quebec, Ontario, Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, British Columbia, Manitoba, Hudson Bay and North West Ter's (not in D - Newfoundland) Area equal to the whole of Europe. Population, 1880, 4 to 5 millions. Timber. - Principal timber, white and red pine - the woods are full of white oak, elm, beech, ash, maple (bird's-eye, curled, &c.) walnut, cedar, birch, tamarac, sugar orchards (maple). The honey-bee everywhere -- rural ponds and lakes, (often abounding with the great white sweet-smelling water-lily) -wild fruits and berries everywhere -- in the vast flat grounds the prairie-anemone. The Fisheries of Canada are almost unparalleled. The seal, the sturgeon, the finest salmon, white fish, cod, haddock, mackerel, herring. The immense area, and the varieties of waters - the Lakes, the St Lawrence, the adjacencies of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia on the east, in fact all the way from Davis Straits to Halifax and the equally rich region on the Pacific side, (on this side great oyster beds) Then furs, deer-skins, and those of the Then furs, deer-skins, and those of the bear, wolf, beaver, fox (all sorts) otter, coon, mink, martin, musk-rat, &c. Grains in following order, - Wheat, Barley, Rye, Oats, Indian corn. If the most significant trait of modern civilization is benevolence, (as a leading statesman has said), it is doubtful whether this is anywhere illustrated to a fuller degree than in the province of Ontario. All the maimed, insane, idiotic, blind, deaf and dumb, needy sick and old, minor criminals, fallen women, foundlings, have advanced and ample provision of house and care and oversight, at least fully equal to anything of the kind in any of the United States - probably indeed superior to them. Of Ontario for its eighty-eight electoral ridings, each one returning a member of parliament, there are four Insane Asylums, an Idiot Asylum, one institution for the Blind, one for the Deaf and Dumb, one for Foundlings, a Reformatory for Girls, one for Women, and no end of homes for the old and infirm, for waifs, and for the sick. Its School system, founded on the Massachusetts plan is one of the best and most comprehensive in the world. Some of the good people of Ontario have complained in my hearing of faults and fraudulences, commissive or omissive, on the part of their government, but I guess the said people have reason to bless their stars at the general fairness, economy, wisdom and liberality of their officers and administration. Aug.21. - London - I rose this morning at 4 and look'd out on the most pure and refulgent starry show. Right over my head, like a Tree-Universe spreading with its orb-apples, - Aldebaran leading the Hyades; - Jupiter of amazing lustre, softness and volume - and not far behind heavy Saturn - both past the meridian - the seven sparkling gems of the Pleiades. The full moon, voluptuous and yellow and full of radiance, an hour to setting in the west. Every thing so fresh, so still, the delicious something there is in early youth, in early dawn - the spirit, the spring, the feel, the air and light, precursors of the untried sun, love, action, forenoon, noon, life - full-fibred, latent with them all. And is not that Orion the mighty hunter? Are not those the three glittering studs in his belt? And there to the north Capella and his kids. Aug. 29 '80. - The robins on the grassy lawn, (I sometimes see a dozen at a time, great fat fellows) - the little black and yellow bird the goldfinch with his billowy flight - the flocks of sparrows. Birds in Ontario, talk with Wm. Saunders. Lark-sparrow - sings., robins, black birds (3 kinds), cat-bird, rice-bird (bob a link), thrush, blue-bird, cuckoo, sand-pipers, night-hawk (nearly called my hawk) to whipporwill, same as night-jar., wren, blue-jay, king-fisher, high-hole, shore-lark (northern bird) all the sparrows, oriole, (hanging bird - golden robin), scarlet tanager (common here), meadow-lark, yellow-bird, purple martin, swallows (go south August and Sept.), cedar-bird (very common). 1880 June 18-Aug. DIARY IN CANADA. A.MS. (41, 84 p. Various sizes) Bound in two volumes of 41 p. (June 18-July 18, 1880) and 84 p. with autograph title: "St. Lawrence & Saguenay trip July & Aug. 1880." The diary was written on Whitman's trip to Canada for which he had been invited by Dr. Bucke. The diary was later published in Boston 1904, under title: Walt Whitman's Diary in Canada, edited by W. S. Kennedy. Although most of the original manuscript material was used in the printed form, many unpublished notes and variant readings were omitted, as well as fragments in prose and poetry written on versos of some of the leaves. The first volume contains also an excerpt of an "Interview with the author of Leaves of Grass and autographed portrait dated Sept. 22, 1880. The second volume includes three maps and two tables which were used by Walt Whitman on his trip; also six views and a signed portrait. A description of Quebec City and province, probably written for some newspaper, was not printed in the published form. It reads in part: "Walt Whitman is at Quebec, delighted with the queer old French city . . . He especially admires, all through the province . . . the perpetual recurrence of pretty towns and villages . . .". {63} American Review, Feb. 1881, under title Poetry today in America; later included in Specimen Days and Collect, 1882-83. {66} 1181 Feb. 6 Death of Carlyle; an essay. A.MS. (16 p. 24 x 14 cm. and less) First draft. Written on paper scraps of various sizes, versos of split envelopes, etc. At head "Feb. 6 '81—First Draught. Pub. in. N. Y. Critic Feb. 12, 1881." {67} 1881 July Genealogical Notes on the Original Whitman Immigration. A.MS. with envelope (6p. 18 1/2 x 13 cm.) Notes taken "from the New Eng [land] Hist [orical] Reg [ister]:, from Genealogical Dict: of New Eng, Savage's," etc. Whitman's findings go back as far as 1635, when "Rob" Whitman came in the Abigail" and "the vessel True Love was the vessel that brought over some of the original Whitman (1640) from London." The envelope contains autograph inscription stating that these notes were "written at West hills, L. I. July 31, 1881." {68} Transcribed and reviewed by contributors participating in the By The People project at crowd.loc.gov.