B. Jay Antrim Journal 2 California 1849N.2 California Journal By B. Jay Antrim 33 1/2 Market Street Philadelphia Penn, U.S.87394 [?][730] 2nd Vol. the gate of the Mason which was very broad, and of one expansive arch; the doors of which being open, the Robbers drew themselves up in a compact body immediately before it on the pavement and street. Our landlord stepping forward told them that they must wait a short time until he could see further about his accomodations. But he immediately passed out by another way from his Mason, in pursuit of the Alcalde of the town, who in a short time came with him to our quarters. The Alcalde enquired of their captain who they were, where from be. They answered that they were government soldiers; He then demanded of their captain, their passport as government soldiers, - but they could show none besides the said company acknowledged having travelled on two days, which by the laws of Mexico, no government troops, are permitted to travel. By their dress superabundance of arms, and statements the Alcalde judged them to be a band of ladrones or Robbers, following us, and not improbable that they were a detachment of a larger body, sent in town as government troops, in order to stop overnight in the walls of our Hotel to take us by surpriseand most probably after stealing our arms, then to attack the town, which is a common occurrence in many parts of Mexico. The Alcalde told us that he believed them to be Robbers. He evidently feared them. He told us to see that our arms were all in order and ready for execution in case we were attacked. Its a matter of course all our men were prompt in self defence, and with our guns, pistols, and knives, in hand and about us, we drew up in order, compactly before the door, facing the Robbers, who stood quietly facing and viewing us as mute as a posse of terrified owls; the Alcalde and our landlord refused them admittance into our Mason, but they would have entered by force had not our company presented a bolder front, headed by Capt Grant, of Philadelphia; who told them that they should not enter, except at the peril of their lives, at the same time every trigger was ready to tell. A moment of suspense, and they decamped in quick step up to the town plaxa, where they were permitted to stay by the authorities. After this the Alcalde came several times to ourquarters, telling us to put on extra guards, which we did, even upon the high walls, in order to stand sentinel over our horses as well as our other property, and persons. The Alcalde told us that there was a probability of either our company or the town being attack'd during the night, and wished us to promise that in case the town was attack'd by them, to assist the citizens and his little military force in putting down the Robbers, which we promised, and on the other hand he told us that if the attack should be directed first towards us, his people should assist us, but that we must not mistake and fire upon a religious procession of the citizens which would pass our Mason about 3 O. clock in the morning. This was an evening long to be remembered from many circumstances. It was a most beautiful moonlight night, and now and then a gentle breeze played fitfully from the beautiful lake of Madalena; My turn among the sentinels came from 12 to 2 O clock in the morning; and my positions around the high walls, and the expansive enclosed yards, was pleasant and romantic during so pleasant a night as this; seeming at times like a dream, that I were facing therounds of some ancient castle and looking down among the dark shades of the groves around slumbering in silence beneath the full and magic moon. I stood upon the house top, meditating upon the beautiful Lake of Madalena, the mountains, standing off in deep shadows, the many flat rooves, the groves and the rocky cliffs near the town; about 2. O. clock a procession of the citizens took place; proceeding from the church and passed our Mason. It was headed by richly robed priests, who were chanting solemn airs; a full sized wax figure of our Savior, of full size, clothed in mourning with a crown of thorns, representing Him as passing up to Mount Calvary, whilst before Him were carried several hundred candles, with several hundred Mexican ladies following each with candles, accompanied with an excellent band of music, the whole was a peculiar scene. Before day light those Ladrones or Robbers before named had all disappeared, having preceeded us on our road through a formidable mountain and vastly grand ravine country, of deep cavernous valleys, suiting such a class of beings.1849 April 6th bay warm and clear. Commenced our march at half past six o clock, winding our way around that beautiful and interesting lake of Madalena. Formidable mountains appeared in full view and an immense country of sugar loaf hills, sharp peaks, several hundred of which might be seen at one view from elevated positions, at times we passed over a graded road, upon which considerable pains had been taken, about 10 A.M. we descended into a very deep and curious valley of about two miles in width, passing down which it spread out to higher rolling hills with very deep chasms for water passing around these hills and amongst them variously. About 12 meridian I sketched Scene No 63 which was a large Hacienda, westward appeared very large mountains, between which and the Hacienda one several tortuous ravines, the deepest and most awfully grand that I ever saw, being more like immense caverns than ravines. through which we passed about 15 miles. They are called the "Baranca's". a road descends upon the almost perpendicular face of one of them, which is very tortuous and romantic; as you might see the train quite beneath us.winding their way far down the deep cavernous valley of the Baranca's; as in No 64. with high and barren Mountains, sparcely timbered towering far above these numerous deep Barancas. Passing along these deep narrow vallies, we crossed several times a rapid creek of some magnitude, over which in many places high brown rocky cliffs, and various timbers, bend gracefully over its romatic and noisy waters. No 65. is a sketch passing down the creek in this valley. No 66. do a short distance north west of the former sketch, with high frowning bluffs of brown rocks. No 67. is another passing father down the stream, where the road ascends and again descends to the creek; after fording which upon rocks [upon] from which the water was bounding away rapidly; we ascended upon the opposite side, where a small race of water descended to a pleasant little dwelling, about which fine timber, several species of very high cactus, and underbrush with luxuriant grass were seen forming a highly picturesque and romantic view. But our train passed so rapidly that I was much in the rear with my last sketches, and had to omit this pretty scene for one whichfollowed shortly after as in sketch no 68 where we came to the junction of apparently three triangular vallies, or deep passes of the Barancas, and the junction of the two fine streams of fair water. At this place there was a pleasant Rancho over the creek, with little groves of oaks, pines, cactus, Bannannas, and beautiful green meadows. Our train turned round and up the left hand valley. And presently came to scene as in No 69, very high, barren, and steep mountains of almost no timber, arose high in the air, with slight misty clouds around their summets; upon the side of one of them a road was seen ascending which is a view of a part of a graded road, cut over this great mountain by some foreigners at an immense cost, and in most places blown through the solid rock, and of excellent workmanship. In this little valley there was a mill of some kind in operation with a large horizontal wheel. I was afterwards told for the purpose of washing out the silver ore beneath the road, seen on the mountainside, there is a small and pleasant village, in which there is an abundance of fine fruits and surrounded by extensive green fields, meadows, groves, and fine timbers along the stream that meanders through its valley, that spreads out to a ---triangular cove, dotted with several pleasant Rancho's, No 70. is a sketch taken on entering this pleasant cove where the village was located. After leaving the village we commenced ascending the mountain road. Time would not permit me to sketch as much as I desired, No 71. shows the workmanship on our fine road over, one of the most formidable mountains in Mexico, it is cut out of the rocks, and walled paved and graded thus all the way up this mountain for a distance of six miles. and as great a piece of work of its kind, as any that I know of in the U States of America. No 72. is another sketch farther up this fine road. The view from the Summet of this mountain looking eastward was fine indeed; including many a green and beautiful valley and more mountains, peaks, knolls, hills, vallies, dales, coves, and verdant spots, blended with wildness and prarie hills, than I had ever yet seen in all Mexico; and was really grand beyond description. The mountains far east about Gaudalaxhara could be seen like smoky shadows of deep blue mist. It is said that we have ascended to day, more than 7000 feet, above the deep Barancas through whichwe have just passed; and still a peak arises to our right, around which we wound our tortuous way looking over walls, that looked straight down upon abyss's that were quite beneath us thousands of feet. I found enough here for days of sketching, over which we passed rapidly as it was a region said to be well filled with Robbers, and frequent to many scenes of bloodshed, robbery, and other vile deeds; a few desperate men in these wild mountain passes could doo much harm even to a large party. On the summit there is a rude breastwork evidently thrown up for that purpose. Cliffs of huge brown rocks here hang over frightful debths and thousands of deep ravines cut deep into and down the rugged mountain. This is our highest elevation in crossing Mexico, we have gradually ascended 7000 feet to the Barancas, and about 7000 feet again to the summet of this grand dividing ridge of Mexico, making in all an elevation of about 14000 feet above the levil of the Sea. Upon this height we now have the afternoon winds from the Pacific Ocean; and from this forward to the Pacific each day, blowing uniformly from the west, and sometimes very strongly.We now commence our gradual descent toward the Pacific Ocean, an event of some interest to us of course; leaving the scenes east of the great Cordilleres, for those descending gradually into the mild and fertile vallies on the great western side of this distinguished mountain. No 73. is a sketch of the first scene descending into a beautiful and fertile valley, along which are plenty of Ranchos, several small villages, several sugar mills, fine farms, meadows, groves, and plenty of small Mexican dwellings, shaded by Bannanas, Plantains, or perhaps the Allamo, or at times the spreading oak. A pleasant stream of water meandered along this valley, the margin of which was thickly interwoven with brushwood, wildflowers, and followed by pleasant green meadows, which contrasted in a striking manner with the shadeless, and wild barren mountains; that were broken and rudely tossed into the high air as the fierce storms would toss the waters of the mighty ocean; and as rudely wild, and void of vegetation or timber in many places. This day we have made a march of 54 miles, and arrived at our Mason in the town of [Eastlan ?] a hour after sun set. It appeared to be a fine largetown; at sun set I sketched Eastlan at a distance of a few miles to the east, being in advance of a part of our train, which during this day got much scattered on the way. There was a fine large Church in this town, with a large shaded plaza or public square, upon which there was a grand display of many kinds of fruits, drinks &c. including watermellons, Oranges, Bannanas, &c. &c. with Lemonade; Polka, etc. A grand procession of the virgin Mary took place, this evening parading in large crowds the various streets of the town with hundreds of Ladies and Gentlemen each in procession, carrying their separate candles. The immage of the Virgin, was of full size, richly dressed in dark silks, and carried in a handsome Sedan; Other processions took place during the evening; but I did not see all of them. This is a beautiful town of several thousand inhabitants; the houses are improving, are much neater, larger, and the people becoming much more refined and civilized than many of those before passed; Western Mexico, is well known to be the most refined and civilized portion of that country. We were much pleased with the decided improvement of whitewashing and other displays of taste in this place.No 74. is a hasty sketch of Eastlan and its surrounding mountains. The valley in which it is situated, descends gradually westward towards the Pacific Ocean; and is under good cultivation with pleasant Ranchos', several small villages &c. [*April 7th*] Day warm and clear; with an afternoon breeze from the Pacific. Commenced our march at sun rise; and proceeded along the meanderings of a pleasant creek; that traversed this interesting valley. A few miles west of Eastlan we passed through a town of considerable size, within which there was a handsome shaded plaza, with a large, curious, and antiquated church. This town was also much shaded by Bannana and Orange groves and a greater part of the houses were very genteel. Here some of our company obtained excellent cups of chocolate &c. Many kinds of fruit were likewise abundant in this place. By the way, as we have before frequently seen, were erected several small shrines of some 8 or 10 feet square, in each of which was suspended the cross, and around which were wreaths of roses, natural and artificial, with candles partly burned, and other things belonging to their religious ceremonies. These with lone cross's are to be seen plentifully throughoutMexico, and either mark a place of worship, or the spot where some individual has [been] met with an untimely end. Proceeding down this pleasant valley and winding around various spurs of the wild mountains, that rear'd their rugged heads upon either side of us, we at 15 miles from Eastlan opened upon a view as in No. 75, with the appearance of a volcano to the right hand. The creek that before travelled rapidly a rocky bed, now joined with other water courses in passing through a ravine or narrow channel of great debth. We now passed over immense fields of wildest volcanic rocks that at some period had been partly fused, and thrown up in rugged masses exceeding any description; extending thus for many miles west and North. The appearance of the rocks was quite black; in places quite spongy, and resembling somewhat the heavy spray of a wild Ocean storm, thrown up in massive peaks, and pinacles, that were at once suddenly petrified or cooled into black rocky masses of half fused granite &c. Such a field of forrest peaks and black [Schorae ?], I have never before witnessed. The government of Mexico, have cut and paved a road through this lava country at great expense, labor and time.The particulars of which they have taken care to place upon a pedestial by the way side; whereas by passing the road (such as it was) around a few miles to the left they might have avoided the worst peaks and ridges of the [Schorae ?]. Some scrubb oaks high pentangular cactus, Etc shaded the Lava road in places, until we came out upon barren hills. No 76 shows a hasty sketch of a part of the lava fields on our way, looking back Southeast. About this valley, which have spread out to many miles, many little Ranchos and villages were to be seen upon the fertile spots, like favored places upon the desert of Arabia. The mountains around were exceedingly wild, and only a few of them even sparsely timbered by a dwarfish growth, of scrubb oaks, pines, and wild cactus. This broad triangular cove or great valley, was traversed in every direction by hills, between which were small and fertile coves, passes, and ravines, along which only the villages and Ranchos were located. During this afternoon we passed through several pretty villages, that were snugly hid away in these little vallies, and after passing over a number of rolling hills, we ascended a mountain to the north, where we encamped at Rancho Ocott.a few hundred yards from this rancho I sketched scene No 77. looking back Southward upon that great valley of vallies, over which we had just passed; from a height of about two thousand feet. I then passed on up the road 2 miles with a friend, and from a height looking into a vast ravine of perhaps 8 or 10 hundred feet, I sketched scene No 78. looking South west. Showing two great mountains rising in a part of the valley before named; a large stream of water was leaping and bounding off from cliff to cliff down this immense ravine, the sound of which could be heard a considerable distance; whilst it was closely shaded by tall timbers, that rose up the steep sides of the abyss, near to its summet edge. During this day we have seen back in the valley several fine falls of water from 5 to 60 or 70 feet, very suitable for mills but not improved. Along this deep ravine there are fine locations for such purposes. From this place Northward the timber for many miles became very large and plentiful; with large Oaks and pines in particular. During this afternoon Mr Slaight and Mr Jones two of our company were misled upon the wrong track, which caused some fears as to their safety, but both came into camp just before dark.It is highly important that companies should keep compact whilst crossing the Mountains of Mexico, as those who stray off, are liable to be cut off by those who constantly watch such opportunities in the trail of the large parties who may cross their country April 8th Day warm and clear. During this night individuals well known, left our camp by night, and proceeded forward at full speed, 16 leagues to Tepec, in advance of our train, in order to Secure passage up to california for themselves exclusive of our company should there not be room for all. This was showing their nature horns and all, for which they afterwards doubtless sorely repented, as certain of them had before promised to remain by each other through to California. The remainder of our company proceeded as usual not at all pleased with the rush for passage, almost every Mexican returning; when asked, gave us different reports about the chances of passenger from San Blass up to San Francisco; and we could ascertain nothing very definite and but little that was encouraging. Some telling us that there was but one vessel in port which could take but four or five more passengers and prices very high, with poor accommodations; others,that there were several vessels in port, and others that there were none that could carry more passengers, and thus the reports varied, but the remainder of us thought best to take things coolly and as they might come; which afterwards proved to be to our especial advantage at Mazatlan. Proceeding northward on the Summet of the mountain on which we had just encamped, we passed through much large and valuable oak timber. During the morning, I sketched No 79. which includes Norelio Mountain, as seen at the distance of about 10 miles to the northward, being also within full view of the town of Tepec to which we were bound. About an hour after sketching the former, we commenced descending a graded road down the mountain, a part of which I sketched as in No 80. after which we crossed a fine creek, then passed over and around a number of wild hills with but few scattering habitations, and those of the poorest kind until we came out upon the open woodless hills, that were beautifully rounded and moulded as by art, and only covered by parched prairie grass, and ranging thus at random around the base of the great Novelio Mountain, whilst sloping off gently in an extensive valley, which was walled in on the North, East, and South by formidable mountains.Again, we ascended a small ridge, which soon gave us a fine view of the great valley of Tepec. We continued descending for Some time upon rolling hills, very sparcely timber with here and there patches of Scrubb oaks, cactus, etc. within about 6 miles of Tepec. I took sketch No. 81. [showing] showing the appearance of the country around that beautiful town. And before entering the town within about a mile and a half I took sketch No 82. showing a fine Stonebridge plastered, and of neat construction; on the principal road to Tepec. This road is generally broad, though not agreeable for [?] vehicles of any kind and is likewise well supplied with fine dust, which during (this) the dry season is almost intolerable during a windy afternoon. Our company arrived in Tepec at 3. O. clock. P.M. a band of dusty travellers, with long beards, jaded, and all the usual et ceteras that attend such a long journey and more especially in Mexico, but not yet closing our journey through this peculiar country. On arriving we ascertained that those preceding us to Tepec had engaged passage up to San Francisco upon a schooner of about 30 tons, that was said to be unfit for service. They paying 70 dollars, and find themselvesbesides being compelled to sleep upon deck; and even at that thinking themselves lucky in getting the chance, at the same time chuckling at us, whoom they considered unfortunate; in not having a chance to sail from San Blass, and at the same time telling us that they pittied us, as we must evidently remain somewheres in Mexico possibly for months to come. But believing that from the greater importance of Mazatlan as a sea port, and place of business, we concluded after resting a day in Tepec to proceed thither, although it was yet another week's journey, the result of which will be seen greatly to our advantage. April 9th Day warm and clear. In company with a friend (Mr. Sayre), I proceeded this morning at an early hour, several miles out of town upon the summet of a neighboring mountain; (it being a day rest for our animals &c) from the heights of which, an extensive and most beautiful view opened in every direction To the east we saw the lofty peaks of Novelio mountain, and very many of those pretty woodless, and grass covered egg shaped hills before mentioned. Far beyond which formidable mountains reared their misty shadows in dim outline high upon the horizon, upon which the morning's sun had already arissen in his glory amid flitting clouds. The South, thesome great chain of mountains ranged with their many lofty peaks; South west a beautiful valley continued for miles, with a high mountain ranging west of it. The same mountain approaching to within a mile of our peak, fell off abruptly and a valley turned around at right angles with the former, ranging off into red hills, towards the Pacific Ocean. An extensive and magnificent view broke upon us from the North, which I endeavored to sketch as in No. 83. North East were seen mountains and peaks piled upon mountains, many of which were seen far above the mists and detached clouds of the morning. Here the country descends rapidly upon the Pacific plains, which are nearly two days journey from Tepec. The plains could be seen far on the dim horizon but not the Ocean. This scene was extensive and grand beyond description. To the north and several hundred feet below us, there was a circular lake of water, No. 84. partly covered with green rushes, and edged by high walls of rocks, being rugged bluffs of dark brown rocks, in places covered with a red soil. This lake was nearly round, and elevated several hundred feet above the valley of Tepec, and exhibited all the signs of having been at some period a vastcrater to this volcanic country, but now filled up with water. We then descended into a deep ravine, at the foot of the hill (letter A) No 84. Through which a fine large stream water descended rapidly upon a rocky bed. Near the foot of hill A. is located an extensive cotton factory belonging to Mess Forbes & Co. as in sketch No 85 .and sketch No 86. taking two different views of this handsome establishment. The proprietors I believe are Englishmen. Their garden of Bannanas, Plantains, Oranges and other tropical fruits, is extensive, and exceedingly beautiful, and more to the idea of some Hindoo scene than one in Mexico. The whole scenery about this factory is pretty, tasty and romantic. This establishment does an extensive business. We returned to town by 2.O. clock P.M. after which I sketched the interior of our Mason (No 87.) or public house, which was tastefull constructed; our quarters however were not as agreeable as the appearance of the place. The church on the plaza was large but of an ordinary appearance, and another similar one in the town, but a very handsome one of smaller dimensions 1 1/2 miles from the plaza, which time would not permit me to sketch, and attend to other duties.A hasty sketch of the plaza was also taken as in No 88. It was surrounded by large shade trees of the oak; and in the centre of it there was a pretty fountain of a plain but neat appearance. The plaza was almost entirely surrounded by colonade rows of usually two Story Stores of the first class. The streets of the town ran uniformly at right angles; were clean, and well paved; the same at Gaudalaxhara, the towns of Logos, and San Louis Potosi, etc. The rooves of the houses were uniformly flat, generally one story in height, frequently whitewashed, or neatly ornamented with various colors. But the suburbs of the town, as usual for Mexico, was surrounded by small mud cabins which so much destroys the good effects of Scenery about the Mexican towns, villages, Rancho's etc. At Tepec, we met another American party, and here also 10 of our company left us in order to proceed a distance of 60 miles to San Blass, and from thence embark upon a vessel they had never seen, which afterwards proved to be unseaworthy and landed them some 9 or 10 days afterwards at Mazatlan in (distress and other) difficultiesWe had remonstrated with them however at Tepec, and there they considered their chances much superior to ours. [*April 10th*] Day warm and clear. Left Tepec at an early hour, and proceeded through a northwest pass, among red hills, little coves, and small narrow and fertile vallies among Shady groves, palms, Bannanas, Plantains, Oranges, &c. and when plenty of watermellons could be obtained very cheap with other fruits, this region of the country appeared well setled with neat and Shady Ranches, and well supplied with running streams of water. Many farms here appeared like little paradis's for shade romance, and the comforts of life; and many were the varied scenes of this [day] morning that were really captivating. [except] But in the after part of the day upon the planes, having descended upon a warmer country, we were open more to the sun, and much annoyed by dust. In making our grand descent upon the plains, we passed down over a long rotine of rugged hills, that gradually diminished as we descended, being sparcely covered with large Palm trees, some underbrush, and now and then parched, prarie grass not of much interest. The view however on descending was extensive, as in sketch No 89.Having descended upon the Pacific Plains, we were again in a much warmer climate. We again passed from the dull monotony of timbers upon the mountains when such may be found, to a lower country where a large variety were daily presented to our notice. We now saw Palms in great abundance, large oaks, the Banyan, Beach, some cedar, large cotton bearing trees, tropical fruit trees plentifully, with many whose species were unknown to us. We passed several small villages on the planes, and a number of Ranchos. Enormous trees of a species with which I am not familiar, but resembling the mulberry somewhat in shape and leaf, and in other respects the Beach tree, grows by the road side in many places, and being dense for spreading and of very great magnitude, it frequently gave us an acceptable shade; during our travels across the planes. These five large shade trees, are however not too abundant, and by seeing them in the distance I frequently judged our distance from a Rancho; as they are favorite trees on these planes. This afternoon we crossed two almost dry beds of wheat when flush were called rivers, but not of great magnitudeOn this days route fruits, Mellons, etc, were plentiful and cheap. 16 Bannanas for 6 1/4 cts or a Madeau, A fair water mellon for a Madeau (6 1/4 cts) 1 madeau for a dish of beans stew'd with some meat. 1 madeau for 3 boiled eggs, and 1 madeau for 4 or 6 tortelias or corn cakes; As we had found it on the other side of the Cordilleres, we also experienced here; high prices in Scarce and barren places, and cheap things where the soil was good, well settled, and fruit groves, etc, consequently to be found. About 3 O. clock P.M. our train halted for the night at a Rancho 33 miles N west of Tepec which I sketched as in No 90. The water of a neighboring creek being warm, a part of our company were in to bathe. During this night Mr Davis (who joined us some days back) was scalded by the accidental overturning of our large camp kettle, in which was stewing a fine mess of chicken, supposed to have been done by wolves, that were heard about just before I was on duty as one of the Sentinels from 12 to 2 and several times, heard the wolves, Mr D was not badly scalded however. [*April 11th*] Day clear and hot. Commenced our march at an early hour, and soon forded a broad and very rocky creek, and during the morning passed through several acceptable woodland groves.Passed a number of ranchos where fruits &c. were plenty and cheap; and the country now generally quite levil. About noon, we came upon the broad sandy beach of a river. Our saddles, baggage, &c. was conveyed across in small boats, (canoes) whilst the whole drove of our animals swam the river together. The scene was interesting and having a few moments (after just finishing a fine large water mellon) I sat down and sketched the river, Mountains, &c., as in View No 91. The mountains were still in view; and follow upon our right, all the way to Mazatlan, as we are now persuing our way up the coast, though not yet in Sight of the Pacific Ocean. This river which we have just now crossed (I was told) is called the "Rio San Diago", being about 18 Mexican leagues from Tepec, or something over 50 miles. Having crossed the River, whilst the mules was reloading &c. for our further progress, most of our company went into a town nearby (of some size) and refreshed themselves upon fruits, coffee, chocolate, eggs, &c. etc. The town though of good size, was dilapidated and of an ordinary appearance, though commanding apretty location. Persuing our course over a very dusty road that wound hither and thither upon a levil country of brushwood and larger clusters of timber, we passed through a village of perhaps 40 or more houses, all entirely deserted, except one, which was tennanted by one Solitary man of a fierce countenance, being a cripple, who had only a few poor mellons for sale at high rates. This was rather strange yet strangely true, one man the Sole lord of a desolate village, no other Mexican was seen in the whole place, and all was closed up without Signs of furniture; the place may have fell into the hands of Robbers, or be unhealthy; we did not ask respecting it of the man, although it excited remarks in our company. This afternoon afforded but little of interest except some large cotton fields, with ripe cotton, belonging to some Ranchos, and surrounded by fences, which is an uncommon thing in this country, fences are very rare throughout all Mexico. we travelled many hundred miles without even seeing a fence; although there may be many farms, it is not every man that has a fence, and even those who posess them mostly have very short appologies for fences, which are rare things in Mexico,I mean fences of wood stone fences of great length, have been seen almost every day or two, amongst the settled parts of the mountains. To day we saw, as beforementioned, fine fields of cotton; but for the first time that I remember in Mexico. We also saw a wild tree about the size and shape of an ordinary apple tree, bearing large and numerous pods of the fine white cotton; And a number of curious fruit trees about the woodlands and water courses. Much of this days travels, all things considered is not by any means inviting to travellers; being dusty in places open to the hot sun, and much of the time rather uncivilized in appearance, which however is no criterion to judge western Mexico by. Before sunset we halted, after a long days march at the Rancho of "Buena Vista" being about 145 miles from Mazatlan. I sketched this place as in No 92. A friend Mr Custer, and I went out afar the creak near by for game, and we returned in about 15 minutes with 3 large Pheasants upon which we made a fine supper, and obtained plenty more for our breakfast, and to carry with us for our dinner, our company numbering at this time between 25 and 30. Since leaving Tepec, those for San Blass taking another road.[*April Thorsd 12th*] Left our Rancho at an early hour. Day clear and hot; with the usual afternoon winds from the Pacific. Passed over an extensive palm country this day, gentle slopes all day covered sparcely with tall and scattered Palm trees, grass burnt off for miles in places; much wild game by the way, few habitations, and those generally of the lowest class. In the morning sketched No 93. of the lofty peaks &c. of the Cordilleres on our night, which are always in full view in passing up the coast . About noon we again came to the bank of another River which was partly dry, and at this season fordable, I did not ask its name, but the town of Cauponetta , was on the opposite side to which we forded. A number of Mexican women were along the margin of this river at their customary employment of washing out clothing; one very clear trait of the Mexicans. Sketch No 94. shows, the river, town, and mountain scenery from opposite Cauponette Puebla. After refreshing ourselves upon mellons, fruit, etc, in this pleasant town we proceeded forward at a rapid gait to finish a long days march. Much of our road was very dusty, though there was less wind than usual; our country slightly rolling and upon the night a full view of the lofty mountains of the coast.This night we encamped at a desolate Rancho a few miles beyond a river, where things had a distressing appearance we could neither obtain water or food of any importance at this place, so that most of us had neither supper nor breakfast. The appearance of everything about these few huts, was perfectly squallid, and the natives almost totally unclothed and appearing reckless and unconcerned about any thing. We camped beside the road, and huts, and kept strict watch during the night; but a few miles back, on the other side of the river we could have encamped at a small village, where all the conveniences were at hand, but being only a few days from Mazatlan, our company became very anxious to finish their land travels in Mexico, and consequently pressed each day. We missed it, decidedly in crossing the river this night, as we left a pleasant camp grove and conveniences at that place, for a desolate place where we lost two meals, and had no water either for our animals or ourselves April 13th Day warm and clear with a fine seabreeze this afternoon Passed through a nearly level country, covered with scattering palms; we came to a village of a squallid appearance about 10. O.clock A.M. where by much trouble we made out to get something to eat.of all squallid places we had yet seen, this village was the climax. Here in front of a cabin, sat a wretched looking woman clothed in rags, and her feet projecting on the walk from a heavy pair of wooden stocks, where she was fastened probably for some offence. The whole of the inhabitants were almost entirely unclothed and appeared to be living in misery and starvation. Having the bold mountains on our right which were all day in full view, we proceeded onward up the coast through Palm forrests, that seem'd never ending, and towards noon oppressively hot; several crosses were passed this day; whilst this section of the country appeared very much uncivilized; and we frequently met men, entirely without clothing. A range of mountains seem'd now to range off west to the Pacific Ocean, over which it appeared that we must pass, on the morrow; approaching within a few miles of their wild and rugged base, we encamped at a Rancho called Cerauso, as in Sketch No 95. here things appeared more genteel than on the previous night and we were enabled to purchase a scanty allowance of provisions, which were in demand and highly acceptable.April 14th Day clear and hot, Left our rancho at an early hour, and proceeded along the base of rugged mountains directly west to within some 5 or 6 miles of the Pacific beach, but not in sight of the ocean, as we came upon a low ground, we passed around the end of those mountains, and travelled over flat planes covered with high grass, and in places pools of Salt water, and yet on this day we did not see the ocean, although at one time we were said to be quite near to the beach. from the edge of a Small Salt lake, I sketched some large and high rocks, which were the terminus of the mountains and nearest to the ocean as in No. 96. I had no time to ascend it, or I may have possibly first beheld the Pacific from its Summet. Again we appeared to direct our course inward from the coast, which brought us in the afternoon to a broad river, with wide beaches of sand and gravel. This stream we forded and entered the pleasant town of Rosario as in sketch No. 97. The location of this town with its mountain scenery was very pretty and interesting. Fruits of every kind with fine mellons were very abundant and cheap in this place. The churchwas large, antiquated, but of handsome finish; up the river about two miles and upon the opposite side, there appeared in full view a similar building of great magnitude, and from its colors and peculiar structure appearing to be much superior to the building in Rosario. Mountains of great magnitude were from 5 to 10 miles to the eastward. In the afternoon we left this pleasant and populous town, and persuing our way among gently rolling hills Palm groves, and vast tracts of brushy oaks, Bodock trees & we encamped at a village of a genteel but odd appearance; where provisions were plenty, and cheap, and the inhabitants quite friendly. Oranges, mellons &c plentiful. April. 15th Day clear and hot, persued our course at an early hour, travelling the same routine of plains, rolling grounds, gullies, Palm forrests, &c this day we passed through many miles of Bodock trees, which much resembled an orchard of civilization, extending, far beyond the reach of the eye, with many thousands of bushels of large Bodock apples; I have no doubt but that in time, the seed of these trees will be sought after for making hedge fences over countries where timber may be scarce. At noon we passed through a fine large townand stopped for a time to refresh ourselves at the market plazas; immense quantities of watermellons were seen in every direction; Soon a large congregation of Ladies, Gentlemen, and civilized looking people came pouring forth from a large and antiquated church upon the plaza; and people quietly on their way to their houses, though viewing our company with some little surprise and attention. From this town we persued our way over "slightly rolling" country of Palms, oaks, and in places a variety of timbers and encamped at night as usual at a rancho. April. 16th Day clear and hot. Persued our journey at an early hour being in full view of Mountains all day, sometimes among hills, and at others upon plains of Palms or extensive groupes of underbrush, with scattering trees of magnitude. The mountain Scene No 98. was sketched this afternoon, from the summet of a Small hill. during the day we passed over several open praries and at night encamped at a rancho of a respectabe appearance beside a fine stream of good water. April 17th Day clear and hot. Persued our journey at Sunrise in order to reach Mazatlan this day. During themorning our road wound considerably amongst small hills, and was sparcely timbered with some Palms, Oaks, &c during the whole day, except where Salt lakes had left level planes of Sand, with not even vegetation Sometimes for miles in some directions upon one of these sand beds, I witnessed to day, what is called mirage, or the deception of water, ahead. For some time I supposed that we were coming to the margin of a lake whose waters were troubled into waves by wind, but on approaching the same, I discovered the mistake; by discovering that the heat of the Sun caused a mist to arise from the sand, which by its position and reflection to the eye caused the deception called mirage. about noon we arrived in the old village of Mazatlan distant from the present Sea port of Mazatlan, about 24 miles. At present it is a place no importance, and is much dilapidated; we obtained some fruit here and proceeded on our journey to the port of Mazatlan, before leaving this place I sketched the ruins of an ancient church at one corner of the old village Square as in Sketch No 99. Shortly after leaving this place we forded a river, and persued our course over a level ground towards the Pacific OceanSketch No 100. was taken 15 miles from the Port of Mazatlan. Those hills on its back ground are along the Pacific, and several of them stand out in the Ocean. The foreground is a Sandy plain, on which at w, I thought I saw the lake of water, which as I was very thirsty at the time, appeared quite acceptable, and after taking the sketch, I dashed away full speed with my horse, to reach it with the company, but it proved to be a very complete deception of water. Approaching within 8 miles of the Pacific, we came to the bank of a Salt lake, which I sketched as in No 101. showing the distant hills near the port of Mazatlan. At 6 miles I took another sketch as in No 102. whilst we were passing around the Salt lake. The fresh breeze was fanning us from the pacific; the declining Sun was shedding his gentler evening rays upon us from over the hills of the Port of Mazatlan, as we wound our way around that pretty lake before named, and crossing the flats, we arising suddenly upon a high ground came at once in full view of the long sought for port of Mazatlan, and for the first time a broad and beautiful view of thePacific Ocean, its islands, shipping, and its foaming surfs that chased each other rapidly upon the pretty beach before us. What a captivating view; two great objects at one view, the Pacific, and the port of Mazatlan with also the gratification of now closing our land, journey across Mexico, and again embarking upon the mighty waters of the Ocean; and thus ending the second great chapter after leaving Philadelphia, and about to enter now upon a third important change. All the past toils were passed over without a murmur, when arriving here, none would of course return by the same way should such ever offer, but none were sorry that they had encountered the toils and fatigues of this journey when they knew it had now closed by land, and was about to commence by Sea; and all were of course well pleased and quite merry on entering the town with their prospects of soon being at Sea; and done with Mexico. 20AD. 15 last opening